A BO OK O F

T HE R IV IERA

BY 5 . BAR ING -GOULDm

ON OLD HYEM S’ cum,AND ICY CROWN,

AN ODOROUS CHArLET or SWEET SUMMER BUDSI S SET .

”

M zdsummer Night’s Dream , ii. 2 .

WITH FORTY ILLUSTRATIONS

SECOND ED IT ION

M E THUE N c o .

36 ESSEX STREET W.C .

L OND O N

CONTENTS

PROVENCELE GAI SABER

MAR SEILLES

AIX

TOULON

HYERES

LES MONTAGNES DES MAURES

S . RAPHAEL AND FREJUSDRAGUIGNAN

L’ESTEREL

GRASSE

CANNES .

N ICE

MONACO

MENTONE

BORDIGHERA

SAN REMO

ALASSIO

SAVONA

I LLUSTRAT I ONS

CAP ROUX, L’ESTEREL Frontz

’

spz’

ece

From a photographby G . Richard.

GOD’S CANDELABRA Toface page I

From a photographby J . Gilct ta.

A PASSAGE IN THE GORGE DU LOUPFrom a photographby Neurdein frétas.

PALM S AT CANNES

From a photographby J . Gile tta .

LA RADE, MARSEILLES

From a photographby N eurdein fréres .

K ING RENE

From the triptychof the Burning Bush, at Aix .

OL IVE TREES

From a photographby J . Gile tta.

PINES NEAR HYERESFrom a photographby Neurdein fréres.

A CAROB TREE

From a pho tographby N eurdein fréres.

GR IMAUDFrom a photographby N eurdein fréres .

AN UMBRELLA P INE , S . RAPHAEL

From a photographb y N eurdein frére s .

LE L ION DE TERRE , S . RAPHAEL

From a photographby A . Bandieri.

THEOULEFrom a photographby J . Gile tta.

L’

ESTEREL FROM CANNES

From a pho tographby G . R ichard.

GRASSE , LES BLANCH ISEUSESFrom a photographby J . Giletta.

CARROS

From a photographby Neurdein fréres .

THE CASCADE OF THE LOUP

From a pho tographby J . Gile tta.

FALL IN THE GORGE OF THE LOUP

From a photographby Neurdein frére s.

I LLUSTRAT ION S vii

INTER IOR OF THE CHATEAU SAINT HONORAT Tofacepage 1 80

From a photographby J . Gile tta.

THE PR ISON OF THE MAN W ITH THE IRON MASK

From a photographby J . Gile tta.

THE CASTLE OF S . HONORAT

From a photographby J . Gile tta.

LA NAPOULE

From a photographby J . Gile tta.

THE CASCADE OF THE CHATEAU, NICEFrom a photographby J . Giletta.

VILLEFRANCHE

From a photographby J. Giletta.

EZE

From a photographby J . Gile tta.

MONACO

From a pho tographby J . Gile tlta.

THE THEATRE, MONTE CARLO

From a photographby J . Gile tta.

POSTCARDS PROH IBITED AT MONACO

THE GAM ING SALOON , MONTE CARLO

From a photographby J . Giletta.

THE CONCERT HALL , MONTE CARLOFrom a photographby J . Gile tta.

M ENTONE

From a photographby J . Gile t ta.

PALMS , G IARDINO WINTER , BORDIGHERA

From a pho tographby Bonigni.DOLCE ACQUAFrom a photographb y Alinari.

SAN AMPEL IO ,BORD IGHERA

From a photographby Alinari.ARCHES IN STREET , BORDIGHERA

From a photographby J . Giletta.

CERIANA

From a photog raphby G. Brogi.BUSSANAFrom a pho tographby J . Giletta.

ALBENGA

From a pho tographby AlInarI.SAVONA

From a photographby Alinari.POPE S IXTUS IV .

From an old engraving.

PREFACE

H IS l ittle book has for its‘

object to interest themany winter vis itors to the L igurian coast in

the places that they see.

A consecut ive history of Provence and Genoese

L iguria was ou t of the quest ion ; i t wou ld be longand tedious . I have taken a few of the most prominent

inc idents in the history of the coast , and have given

short biographies of interesting personages connected

with i t. The Engl ish vis itor cal l s the enti re coast

from Marsei l les to Genoa— the R iviera ; but the French

d istingu ish their portion as the COte d ’

A z ur,and the

I tal ians d istinguish theirs as the R iviera d i~Ponente.

I have not included the whole of this latter,so as not

to make the book too bulky, but have stayed my pen

at S avona .

GOD ’S CANDELA BRA

THE RIV IERA

CHAPTER I

P ROV E N CE

Montpellier and the Riviera compared— The discovery of the Riviera as

a winter resort—A district full of historic interest—Geology of thecoast—The fiora— Exotics—The original limit of the sea— The formation of the cram—The Mistral—The olive and cypress— L es Alpines—The chalk formation— The Jura limestone— Erup tive rocks—Thecolouring of Provence- The towns and their narrow streets— Earlyhistory—The Phoenicians— Arrival of the Phocoeans— The Roman

province— Roman remains—Destruction of the theatre at Axles

Visigoths and Burgundians— The Saracens—When Provence was

joined to France— Pagan customs linger ou—Floral games— Carnival— The origin of the Fauxbourdon- How part

-singing came into theservice of the church— Reform in churchmusic- Little Gothic architecture in Provence— Choirs at the west end at Grasse and Vence .

HEN a gambler has become bankrupt at thetables ofMonte Carlo

,the Company that owns

these tables furnish’

him with a rai lway ticket that wi l ltake him home

,or to any distance he l ikes

,the further

the better, that he may hang or shoot h imself anywhereelse save in the gardens of the ,

CasinO . Onmuch the sameprinciple, at the beginn ing of last centu ry, the phys iciansof England recommended thei r consumptive pat ien ts to

go to Montpe l l ier, where they m ight die out of sight,B

2 THE R I V IERA

and not bring d iscredit on their doctors. As Murraywel l puts i t

It is difficult to understand how it came to be chosen bythe physicians of the North as a retreat for consumptive

patients, since nothing can be more trying to weak lungsthan its variable climate

,its blazing sunshine alternatingwith

the p iercingly cold blasts of the mz’

slral. Thoughits sky beclear, its atmosphere is filledwithdust, whichmust be hurtfulto the lungs .

”

The discovery Of a better place,with equable tempera

tu re, and protection from the winds,was due to an

accident.I n 1 83 1 , L ord Brougham ,

flying from the fogs andcold of England inwinter, was on his way to I taly, theclass ic l and Of sunshine

,when he was delayed on the

French coast of the Med iterranean by the fussiness ofthe Sard in ian pol ice, which wou ld not suffer him to passthe frontier without undergoing quarantine , l est heshould be the means Of introducing cholera into Piedmont. A s he was obl iged to remain for a cons iderabletime on the coast

,he spent it in rambl ing along the Gul f

of Napoule. This was to him a veritable revelation .

He found the sunshine, the cl imate, the flowers he wasseeking at Naples where he then was , at Napoule. He

went no farther ; he bought an estate at Cannes , andthere bu i l t for h imself a winter res idence. He talkedabout his d iscovery. I t was w ri tten about in the papers .Eventual ly it was heard Of by the physic ians , and theyceased to recommend their patients to go to Montpel l ier,but rather to try Cannes . When Lord Brougham settledthere

,i t was but a fishing vil lage ; i n thirty years i t was

transformed ; and from Cannes stretches a veritable

H ISTOR IC INTEREST 3

rosary of winter resorts to’

Hyeres on one s ide to

A lass io on the other ; as white grains threaded on thel ine from Marseil les to Genoa. A s this chain of vil las ,hotels

,casinos

,and shops has sprung up So recent ly,

the whole looks extremely modern , and devoid of historic interest. That i t i s not so, I hope to Show. Thismodern fringe is but a fringe on an ancient garment ;but a superfic ial sprinkl ing over beds of remote an

tiquity rich in story.

Sometimes it i s but a gl impse we get— as at Antibes ,where a monument was dug up dedicated to the manesof a l ittle boy from the North, aged twelve years , whodanced and pleased in the theatre. The name of thepoor lad is not given ; but what a pictu re does it present !Possibly

,of a Briti sh chi ld - slave sent to caper, with

sore heart,before the Roman nobles and ladies— and

who pined and died . But Often we have more than ahint . The altar piece of the Burning Bush at Aix

gives up an authentic portrait Of easy -

going KingRéné

,the luckless wearer of many crowns

,and the

possessor of not a single k ingdom— René, the fatherof the sti l l more luckless Margaret, wife Of ou rHenry VI .Among the Montagnes des Maures, on a height are the

cisterns and foundations Of the stronghold Of the S aracens

,their last stronghold on this s ide of the Pyrenees ,

whence they swept the country,burning and slaying,

ti l ld islodged in 972 by Wi l l iam,

Count ofProvence. Again,the house at Draguignan of Queen Joanna, recal ls hertragi c story ; the wife of fou r husbands , the murderess ofthe first, she for whose delectation Boccaccio col lectedhismerry, immoral tales ; she, who sold Avignon to thePopes, and so brought about their migration from Rome,

4 THE R I V IERA

the Babylon ish cap tivity'

of near a hundred years shestrangl ed final ly whilst at her prayers .The E sterel , now clothed in forest, reminds u s Ofhow

Charles V. advancing through Provence to claim i t ashis own

,hampered by peasants in th is group ofmoun

tains,set the forests on fire

,and for weeks converted the

district into one great sea of flame around the blood - redrocks .Marseil les recal ls the horrors of the Revolution , and

the roar of that song, smell ing ofblood,to which i t gave

i ts name. A t Toulon , Napoleon first drew attention tohis m i l i tary abi l ities ; at S . Raphael he landed on hisreturn from Egypt, on his way to Paris

,to the 1 8th

Brumaire,to the Consulate

,to the Empire ; and here

also he embarked for E lba after the batt le Of L eipzig.

But leaving history, let u s look at what Nature affordsof in terest. Ge

’

ological ly that coast i s a great picturebook Of successions Of depos its and of convu ls ions.There are to be found recent conglomerates, chalk,l imestone , porphyry,

new red sandstone,mica schist

,

granite. The E sterel porphyry i s red as if on fire,seen

in,the even ing sun . The m ica schist Of the Montagnes

des Maures strews about i ts dust,so shin ing, so golden ,

that in I 792 a representative Of the Department wentup to Paris with a handful

,to exhibit to the Convention

as a token of the ineptitude of the Admin istration ofVar, that trampled under foot treasures suflicient todefray the cost of a war against al l the kings of theearth .

The masses of l imestone are cleft with elm , gorgesthrough which the rivers thunder, and form: springs Of

l iving water bursting out of the bowels of the mountains.

THE GORGE OF T HE LOUP

GEOLOGY ‘

OF THE COAST 5

Consider what the variety of geo logi c formation implies : an almost infin ite variety of plants ; moreover,owing to the difference Of al titudes, the flora reaches i na chromatic scale from the fringe Ofthe A lpine snows tothe burn ing sands by the seas . I n one l ittle commune,i t i s estimated that there are more varieties to be foundthan in the whole of I reland .

But the visitor to the seaboard -the French COte

d ’azur and the I tal ian R iviera— returns home after a winter sojourn there with his m ind stored with pictures ofpalms, lemons , oranges, agaves , aloes , umbrel la pines,eucalyptus

, m imosa, carob- trees,and ol ives . This is the

vegetation that characteri ses the R iviera,that d is

tinguishes i t from vegetation elsewhere ; but, al thoughthese trees and shrubs abound

,and do form a domi nant

feature in the scenery,yet every one of them i s a foreign

importation,and the ind igenous plants must be sought

in mountain d istricts,away from towns

,and high- roads

,

and railways .These strangers from A frica

,A s ia

,Austral ia and

S ou th America have occup ied the best land and thewarmest corners, just as of Old the Greek and Romancolon ists shouldered o ut the native tribes

,and forced

them to withdraw amidst the mountains .The travel ler approaching the R iviera by the l ine

from Lyons , after passing Valence, enters a val ley thatnarrows, through which roll s the turbid flood of theRhone. Presently the sides become steeper

,higher,

more rocky, and draw closer ; on the right appearsViviers, dominated by its cathedral and tower, squareb elow

,

'

octagonal above, and here the Rhone becomesmore rapid as i t enters the R oéinet de Donz e

‘

re,between

calcareous rocks ful l Of caves and rifts. Then,al l at

6 THE R IV IERA

once, the l ine passes out of the rocky portal,and the

travel ler enters on another scene altogether, the vasttriangular plain l im ited by the A lps on one s ide and theCevennes on the other

,and has the Mediterranean as

i ts base. To this point at one time extended a mighty

gulf, seventy m i les from the present coast- l i ne at themouth Of the Rhone . Against the friable l imestonecl iffs , the waves lapped and leaped . But at some nu

known time a cataclysm occurred . The A l ps wereshaken

,as we shake '

a tree to bring down its fru it , andthe Rhone and the Durance

,swollen to an enormous

volume,rol led down masses of débris into this gul f and

choked it. The Durance formed i ts own l ittle em u

along the north of the chain ofthe A lpines, and the Rhonethe far larger em u Of A rles

,the pebbles Of which al l

come from the A lps,in which the river takes it rise. But

,

i n fact,the present cram represent bu t a smal l portion of

the vast mass Of rubbish brought down . They are justthat part which in histori c times was not overlaid withsoil .When this period was passed

,the r ivers relaxed their

force,and repented Of the waste they had made, and

proceeded to chew into mud the pebbles they rol ledalong, and , rambl ing over the level stretches of rubble, todeposit upon it a ferti l is ing epidermis . Then , i n moderntimes

,the engineers came and banked in the Rhone, to

restrain its vagaries , so that now it pours its preciou smud i n to the sea

,and yearly proj ects its ugly muzzle

further forwards . When we passed the rocky portal , wepassed also from the cl imate Of the North into that ofthe South , but not to that cl imate without hes itations .For the sun beating on the level land heats the pebblebed

,so that the ai r above i t qurvers as over a l ime-kiln ,

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THE OL I VE AND CYPRESS 7

and,ri sing, i s replaced by a rush of icy winds from the

A lps. This downrush is the dreaded Mistral . I t was a

sayingof old

Parlement, Mistral, e t DuranceSont les trois fléaux de Provence .

The Parl iament i s gone, but the Mistral st i l l rages , andthe Durance st i l l overflows and devastates .The plain

,where cul tivated

,i s l ined and cross - l ined as

with Ind ian ink . These l ines,and cross- l ines

,are formed

Of cypress,veritable wal ls of defence , thrown up against

the wind . When the Mistral rages, they bow as whips ,and the water Ofthe lagoons is l icked up and spat at thewal ls Ofthe sparsely scattered vi l lages . Here and thererises the Ol ive

,l ike smoke from a lowly cottage . I t

shrinks from the bite of the frost and the lash Of thewind

,and attains its proper height and vigour on ly as

we near the sea and is in the utmost luxuriancebe tween Sol lies Pont and L e Luc , growing on the richnew red sandstone

,that skirts the Montagnes des

Maures .Presently we come on the lemon

,the orange, glowing

golden , Oleanders in every gu l ly, aloes (“ God ’s cande

labra figs , mulbe rries , pines with outspread heads , l ikeextended umbrel las

,as the cypress represents one folded ;

cork trees,palms with tufted heads al l seen through an

atmosphere Ofmarvel lous clearness, over-arched by a skyas blue as that Of I taly, and with— as horizon— thedeeper

,the indigo blue , Ofthe sea .

On leaving A rles, the train takes the bit between itsteeth and raCC s over the em u

,straight as an arrow,

between l ines Of cypresses . I t is j ust poss ible to catch

gl impses to the north , between the cypresses , Ofa chain

8 5 TH E ~R I V IERA

of hi l l s of opalescen t hue. That chain, L es A l pines,

gives i ts d i rect ion to the Durance. This river lent i tsa id to Brother Rhone to form this rubble plain

,the

Camp us [up z'

a’

eus Of the Romans,the modern em u . This

was a desert over which the m i rage alternated with theMistral

,til l A dam de Craponne

,i n the s ixteenth century

,

brought a canal from the Durance to water the stonyland

,and since then , l i ttle by l ittle, the desert i s being

recla imed . This vast stony plai n'

was a puzzle to theancients , and fEschylus, who flourished B .C . 472 , tel ls usthat Heracles , arriving at th is plain to fight the L igurians ,and beingwithout weapons , Heaven came to his aid andpoured down great stones out ofthe sky against hi s foes ,This i s much l ike the account in Joshua Of the battleagainst the Kings i n the plain OfE sdraelon .

A t length , at Miramas , we escape from between theespal ier cypresses and see that the d istant chain hasd rawn nearer, that i t has lost i ts mother-of-pearl t in ts ,and has assumed a ghastly whiteness . Then we dashamong these cretaceous rocks, desolate, forbidding anddead . They wi l l attend us from Marsei l les to Toulon .

The cretaceous sea bed , that once occupied so vast anarea

,has been l i fted into downs and mountain s

,and

stretched from Dorset and VViltshire to Dover. We

catch a gl impse of i t at Amiens . A nodule that hasdefied eros ion susta ins the town and cathedral of L aon .

It underl ies the Champagne country. I t asserts itsel fsu l len ly and resolutely in Provence

,where it overl ies

the Jura l imestone,and is almost ind istingu ishable from

i t at the j unction , for i t has the same incl ination , thesame foss il s, and the same m ineralogical constituents .I n England we are accustomed to the soft sk in of

thymy turf that covers the chalk on our downs. Ofthis

THE J URA L IMESTONE 9

there is none in Provence . The fierce sun forbids it .Consequent ly the rock is naked and cadaverously white ,but scantily sprinkled over with stunted p ines.The Jura l imestone i s the great p z

’

éee d’e Perz

'

stauee inProvence it is sweeter in colour than the chalk , rangingfrom cream white to buff and salmon ; i t has not thedead p al lor of the chalk . Any one who has gone downthe Cafion of the Tarn knows what exquisite gradat ionsand harmonies Of tone are to be found in Jura l imestone. H ere this format ion stands up as a wal l to theNorth

,a m ighty screen , sheltering the R iviera from the

boreal winds . I t rises pre cipitously to a plateau that isbald and desolate

,but which is rent by ravines Ofgreat

majesty and beauty,through which rush the waters from

the snowy A lps . The chalk and the l imestone arefissured

,and al low the water flowing over thei r surface

to fi lter down and issue forth in the val leys,render

ing these fertil e and green , whereas the plateaux arebare. The plateaux rise to the height Of orfeet .The tract between the mountain wal l of l imestone

and the sea is made up of a molass Ofrol led fragmentsof the rock in a paste Ofmud. This forms hil ls Of

considerable height, and this also i s sawn through hereand there by ri l l s

,or washed out by rivers .

A l together d ifferent in character i s the mass of theMontagnes des Maures, which is an upl ifted body of

gran ite and schist.A ltogether d ifferent again i s the Esterel , a protruded

region of red porphyry.

About these protruded masses may be seen the newred sandstone .

When we have mastered this— and it is s imp le enough

IO THE R I V IERA

to remember— we know the character of the geologyfrom the mouths ofthe Rhone to A lbenga.

The colouring of Provence, says Mr. Hammerton,is

p retty in Spring, when the fields are still green and‘

the mulberry trees are in leaf, and the dark cypress and grey olive areonly graver notes in the brightness , while the desolation of thestony hills is prevented from becoming oppressive by thefreshness of the foreground but when the hot sun and the drywindhave scorched every remnant of verdure

, when any grassthat remains is merely ungathered hay, and you have nothingb ut flyingdust and blinding light, then the great truthis bornein upon you that it is Rain whichis the true colour magician ,thoughhe may veil himself in a vesture ofgrey cloud.

”

I n winter and early spring i t i s that the coast is enj oyable. I n winter there is the evergreen of the palms , theol ive , the i lex , the cork tree , the carob , the orange andlemon and myrtle. I ndeed

,i n the Montagnes deS

Maures and in the Esterel,i t is always spring.

The res ident in winter can hardly understand thestructu re of the towns

,with streets at widest n ine feet

,

and the houses running up to five and six storeys ; butthis is due to necess ity. The object is double : by makingthe streets so narrow

,the sun is excluded , and the sun

in Provence is not sought as w i th us in England ; andsecond ly

,these narrow thoroughfares induce a draught

down them . I n almost every town the contrast betweenthe new and the old i s most marked , for the occupantsof the new town res ide there for the winter on ly, andtherefore cou rt the sun whereas the inhabitants of theold town dwel l in i t al l the year round , and consequentlyendeavour to obtain al l protection possible from thesun . But this shyness of basking i n the sun was no t

EARLY H ISTORY I I

the sole reason why the streets were made so narrow.

The o ld towns and even vil lages were crowded withinwal ls ; a gi rdle of bulwark surrounded them , they had nospace for expansion except upwards .What Mr

,Hammerton says of French towns appl ies

especial ly to those of Provence

France has an immense advantage over England in thebetter harmony between her cities and towns, and the countrywhere they are p laced. In England it rarely happens thata town adds to the beauty of a landscape ; in France it oftendoes so . In England there are many towns that are quiteabsolutely and hideously destructive of landscape beauty ; inFrance there are very few. The consequence is that in Francea lover of landscape does not feel that dislike to human interference whichhe so easily acquires in England, and whichinsome of our best writers, who feel most intensely and acutely,has become po sitive hatred and exasperation .

”

I t was fear of the Moors and the pirates of theMediterranean which drove the inhabitants of the seacoast to bu ild their towns on the rocks

,high upl ifted ,

wal led about and dom inated by towers .I wil l now give a hasty sketch of the early history of

Provence -so far as goes to explain the nature of i ts

population .

The earl iest occupants of the seaboard named inhistory are the L igurians . The Gulf of Lyons takes itsname from them

,i n a contracted form . Who these

L igurians were, to what stock they belonged , i s no t

known bu t as there are megal ith ic monuments in thecountry, covered avenues at Castelet

,near A rles

,

dolmens at Draguignan and Saint Vall ier, a menhir atCabasse

,we may perhaps concl ude with some probabil ity

1 2 THE R I V IERA

that they were a branch of that great Ivernian racewhich has covered al l Western Eu rope with thesemysterious remains . A t an early period

,the Phoen icians

establ ished trading depots at Marsei l les , N ice, and el sewhere along the coast. Monaco was ded icated to their

god, Melkarth, whose equ ivalent was the Greek Heracles,the Roman Hercules . The story of Heracles fight ingthe gigantic L igurians on the em u

,assisted by Z eus

pouring down a hail of pebbles from heaven,i s merely

a fabulous rendering of the historic fact that the Phoenicran settlers had to fight the L igurians , represented as

giants , not because they were of monstrous size,but b ecause of thei r huge stone monuments .The Phoen icians d rew a bel t of colon ies and trad ing

stat ions along the Mediterranean , and were masters ofthe commerce. The tin of Britain

,the amber of the

Balt ic,passed through thei r hands

,and their great

emporium was Marsei l les . I t was they who constructedthe Heraclean Road

,afterwards restored and regulated

by the Romans,that connected al l thei r settlements

from the I tal ian frontier to the S traits of G ibraltar.They have left traces of thei r sojou rn in place names ;i n their time

, S aint Gil les , then Heraclea , was a port atthe mouth of the Rhone ; now i t i s thi rty miles inland .

Herculea Caccabaria, now Saint T ropez , recal l s Kaccab e ,the earl iest name of Carthage. One of the islets o uts ide the harbour of Marseil les bore the name of

Phoenice .

This energet i c people conveyed the ivory of A frica toEurope , worked the lead mines of the Eastern Pyrenees ,and sent the coral and pu rple of the Mediterraneanand the bronze of the Po bas in over Northern Europe .

The prosperity of Tyre depended on i ts trade.

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1 4 THE R I V IERA

of Hannibal ; and when the Ambron s and Teutonspoured down a mighty host with purpose to devastateI taly, the Phocoean c ity ofMarseil les furn ished Mariuswith a contingent, and provisioned his camp at thej unct ion of the Durance with the Rhone.The Romans were des i rous ofmaintain ing good re

lations with the Greek colon ies , and when the nativeL igurians menaced N ice and A ntibes

,they sent an

army to their aid,and having defeated the barbarians,

gave up the conquered terri tory to the Greeks .I n B .C . 1 2 5, L ucius S ex tius Calvinus attacked the

nat ive tribes in thei r fastness,defeated them

,and

founded the town of Aquae S ex tiae, about the hotsprings that ri se there— now Aix . The L igurians weredriven to the mountains and no t su ffered to approachthe sea coast , which was handed over enti rely to theGreeks of Marsei l les .So highly stood the cred it of Marsei l les , that when ,

after the concl usion of the A s iatic War, the Senate of

Rome had decreed the destruction of Phocoea, theyl istened to a deputat ion from Marsei l les

,pleadingfor the

mother city,and revoked the sentence. Meanwhi le

,the

Gau ls had been pressing south,and the unfortunate

L igurians , l im ited to the stony plateaux and the S lopes ofthe A lps, were n ipped between them and the Greeks andRomans along the coas t. They made terms with theGaul s and formed a Gelto -L igurian league. They weredefeated

,and the S enate of Rome decreed the annexa

tion of al l the terri tory from the Rhone to the A lps,to

constitute thereof a province. Thenceforth the c it iesand slopes of the coast became places of residence fo rwealthy Romans , who had there V i l las and gardens . Thetowns were suppl ied with amphitheatres and baths.

ROMAN REMA INS 1 5

Theatres they possessed before, under the Greeks ; butthe brutal

.

pleasures of the slaughter of men was anintroduction by the Romans . The remains of thesestructures at Nimes

,A rles

,Frej us , Cimiez , testi fy to the

crowds that must have delighted in these horriblespectacles . That of Nimes would contain fromto spectators ; that of A rles that of

Frejus an equal number.Wherever the Roman empire extended , there may be

seen the same huge structures , almost invariable in plan ,and al l devoted to pleasure and luxury. The forum

,

the temples,sink into insignificance beside the amphi

theatre,the baths

,and the circus . Citizens of the empire

l ived for thei r ease and amusements,and concerned

themselves l i ttle about publ ic bus iness. I n the old daysof the Republ ic

,the interests

,the contests

,of the people

were forensic . The forum was thei r place of assembly.

But with the empire al l was changed . Publ ic transactionof business ceased

,the despotic Caesar provided for

,

d irected, governed al l

,Roman cit i zens and subject

peoples alike. They were left with nothing to occupythem, and they rushed to orgies of blood . Thus thesevast erections tel l us

,more than the words of any historian

,

how great was the depravity of the Roman character.But with the fifth century this cond ition of affairs

came to an end . The last time that the c i rcus of A rleswas used for races was in 462 . The theatre there waswrecked by a deacon called Cyri l i n 446 . A t the headof a mob he bu rst into it

,and smashed the loveliest

statues of the Greek chisel,and mu tilated every article

of decoration therein . The stage was garn ished with'

elegant colonne ts al l were thrown down and broken,

except a few that were carried off to decorate churches.

1 6 THE R I V IERA

All the marble casing was ripped away, the has-rel iefswere broken up, and the fragments heaped in the pit.There was some excuse for this iconoclasm . The stagehad become l icentiou s to the last degree, and there wasno drawing the people from the spectacles . “ I f

,

” saysSalvian,

“ as often happens,the publ i c games coinc ide

with a festival of the Church, where wi l l the crowd be ?I n the house of God

,or in the amphitheatre ? ”

During that fifth century the Vis igoths and the Bur

gundians threatened Provence. When these enteredGau l they were the most human ised of the barbarians ;they had acquired some aptitude for order

,some love

of the d iscipl ine of c ivi l l i fe. They d id no t devastatethe c ities

,they suffered them to retain thei r old l aws

,

thei r rel igion , and their customs . Wi th the s ixth centu rythe dom i nation of the Visigoths was transferred beyondthe Pyrenees

,and the Burgundians had ceased to be an

independent nation ; the Franks remained masters overalmost the whole of Gaul .I n 7 1 1 the Saracens , o rMoors , crossed over at Gibraltar

and invaded Spain . They possessed themselves as wel lof S i cily, Sard in ia, and the Baleari c I sles . Not contentwi th this

,they cast covetous eyes on Gaul . They poured

through the defile s of the Pyrenees and spread over theri ch plains of Aqu itaine and of Narbonne. I nto thislatter c ity the Cal if Omar I I . broke in 720, massacredevery male

,and reduced the women to slavery. Bez iers

,

S aint Gil les , A rles , were devastated ; Nimes opened tothem her gates . The horde mounted the val ley of theRhone and penetrated to the heart of France . Au tunwas taken and burnt i n 72 5. A ll Provence to the A lpswas theirs . Then in 7 32 came the most terrible of theiri nvasions . More than men , accord ing- to the

PAGAN CU STOMS 1 7

chronic lers , led by Abdel-Raman , crossed the Pyrenees ,took the road to Bordeaux , which they destroyed , andascended the coast t i l l they were me t and annihi latedby Charles Martel on the field ofPoitiers .From this moment the struggl e changed its character.

The Christians assumed the offensive. Charles Martelpursued the retreat ing host, and took from them theport of Maguelonne ; and when a crowd of refugeessought shelter in the amphitheatre of A rles , he se t fi re toi t and hurled them back into the flames as they attemptedto escape. Thei r last stronghold was Narbo nne , wherethey held out for seven years , and then in 759 that alsofel l

,and the Moorish power for evi l in France was at an

end but al l the south , from the A lps to the ocean,was

strewn with ru ins .They were no t, however, whol ly discouraged . Not

again , indeed , did they venture across the Pyrenees ina great host ; but they harassed the towns on the coast,and intercepted the trade. When the empire of Charlemagne was d ismembered , Provence was separated fromFrance and constituted a kingdom,

under the adm in istrat ion of one Boso , who was crowned at A rles in 879 .

This was the point of departure of successive changes ,which shal l be touched on i n the sequel . The Germankings and emperors laid claim to Provence as a vassalstate

,and it was not ti l l 148 1 that it was annexed to the

Crown ofFrance. A vignon and the V enaissin were notunited to France ti l l 1 79 1 .

I n no part of Europe probably d id pagan customsl inger on with such persistence as in this favoured landof Provence, among a people ofm ixed blood— L igurian ,Phoenician

,Greek

,Roman , Saracen . Each current of

uniting blood brought with i t some supersti tion , some0

1 8 THE R I V IERA

vic ious propens ity, or some strain of fancy. I n thevery fi rst mention we have ofthe Greek settlers

,al lusion

is made to the Fl oral Games. The Battle of Flowers,

that d raws so many vis i tors to N i ce,Mentone

,and

Cannes , i s a d irect descendant from them ; but it hasacqu ired a decent character comparatively recently.

A t A rles , the Feast of Pentecost 'was celebratedthroughout the M iddle Ages by games endingwith racesofgi rl s , stark naked , and the city magi strates presidedover them

,and d istributed the prizes

,which were de

frayed out of the town chest. I t was no t ti l l the s ixteenthcentury

,owing to the remonstrances of a Capuchin friar,

that the exhibition was d iscontinued . P recisely thesame took p lace at Beaucaire . A t Grasse, every Thursday in L ent saw the performance in the publ ic p laee of

dances and obscene games , and these were not abol ishedti l l 1 706 by the energy of the bishop , who threatened toexcommun icate every person convicted of taking part inthe d isgusting exhibit ion of L es Jouvines.

”

A native of Tours vis ited Provence In the seventee nthcentury

,and was so scandal i sed at what he saw there

,

that he wrote,i n 1 645, a letter of remonstrance to his

friend Gassend i . Here is what he says of the manneri n which the festival of S . L azarus was celebrated atMarseil l es

The town celebrates this feast by dances that have theappearance of theatrical representations, throughthe mu ltitudeand variety of the figures performed . All the inhabitantsassemble

,men and women alike, wear grotesque masks, and

go throughextravagant capers . One would think they weresatyrs fooling with nymphs . They hold hands, and racethroughthe town , preceded by flutes and violins. They forman unbroken chain, whichwinds and wriggles in and out

CARN IVAL 1 9

among the streets, and this they call 16 Grand B ran/e. But

why this shou ld be done in honour of S . Lazarus is a mysteryto me , as indeed are a host of other extravagances of whichProvence is full, and to whichthe p eop le are so attached, thatif any one refuses to take part in them,

they will devastate hiscrops andhis belongings.

”

The carn ival and m icareme have taken the place of

this exhibition ; and no one who has seen the revelriesat these by night can say that this sort of fooling i snearing i ts end . Now these exhibitions have become asource of profit to the toyvns, as drawing foreigners tothem

,and enormous sums are lavished by the mun ici

palities upon them annual ly. The peop le of the placeenter into them with as much zest as in the centuriesthat have gone by.

Dancing in churches and churchyards lasted throughout the Middle Ages . The clergy in vain attempted toput it down , and , unable to effect this , preceded thesechoric performances by a sermon

,to deter the peop l e

from fal l ing in to excesses of extravagance and V ice. A t

L imoges, not indeed in Provence, the congregation waswont to intervene inthe celebration of the feast of theirapostl e

, S . Martial , by breaking out i nto song in thepsalms

,

“ Saint Martial pray for us,and we wil l dance

for you ! ” Whereupon they joined hands and spunround in the church .

1

This leads to the mention of what is of no smal linterest in the history of the origin OI part- singing.

Anyone fam i l iar with vesp ers, as performed in Frenchchurches

,i s aware that psalms and cant icles are sung in

one or other fashion : either alternate verses alone are

1 FAUR IEL , H ist. de la Pa/sz’

e Prat/medic, 1 846, i. , pp . 169- 1 7 1 .

20 THE R I V IERA

chanted , and the gap i s fi l led in by the organ goingthrough astound ing mus ical frol ics ; or else one verse i schanted in plain - song, and the next in fuuxéoum

’ou

that i s to say , the t enor holds on to the plain- song,whilst treble and alto gambol at a higher strain a melodyd ifferent, but harmon ious with the plain -song. I nProvence at high mass the Gloria and Credo are d ividedinto paragraphs , and in l ike manner are sung alternatelyin plain - song andfuuxbeum

’ou . The origin ofthis part

s inging i s very curious . The congregation , l oving tohear thei r own voices , and not part icu larly interested in ,o r knowing the L atin words , broke out i nto fol k- songat intervals

,i n the same “ mode ” as that of the tone

sung by the clergy. They chirped out some love bal lado r dance tune

,whilst the Officiants in the choir droned

the L atin of the l i tu rgy. Even so late as 1645, theProvenqals at Christmas were wont to s ing i n theM ugu zfi eezz

‘ a vulgar song

Que me vous requinque z -vous, Vielle ,

Que ne vous requinquez , done i

which may be rendered

Why do you trick yourself out, oldwoman ?0 why do you trick yourself so i’ ”

I n order to stop this sort of thing the clergy hadrecourse to “ farc ing

” the canticles , z'

.e. translatingeach verse into the vernacular

,and interlard ing the

L atin with the translation,i n hopes that the people

,i f

s ing they would , would adopt these words ; but thefarced canticles were not to the popular taste, and theycontinued to roar o ut l usti ly their folk- songs , often indel icate

,always unsui table. This came to such a pass

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2 2 THE R I V IERA

the bass (tenor ?) gave utterance to an Agnus D ez'

or aB euedz

'

ez‘us

, and the soprano (alto ?) was engaged upon the versesof a Latinhymn . Baini

,who examinedhundreds of the masses

and motetts in MS .,says that the words imported into them

from vulgar sources make one’s flesh creep , and one’s hair

stand on end.

’H e does no t venture to do more than indicate

a few of the more decent of these interlopingverses . As anaugmentation of this indecency, numbers frbm a mass whichstarted withthe grave rhythm of a Gregorian tone were broughtto their conclusion on the dance measure of a popular bal/ata,so that [ uearuatur est or Kyr t

’

a elet'

sou went jigging off intosuggestions of Masetto and Zerlina at a village ball .

” 1

The mus ic ians who composed these masses s implyaccepted what was customary

,and al l they d id was to

endeavou r to reduce the hideous d iscords to harmony.

But i t was this superpos ing of folk - songs on Gregoriantones that gave the start to polyphon ic s inging. Thestate of confusion into which eccles iastical music hadfal len by this means rendered i t necessary that a reformation shou ld be undertaken

,and the Counci l of T rent

(Sept . 1 7 , 1 562 ) enjoined on the O rd inaries to “ excludefrom churches al l such mus i c as , whether through theorgan or the s inging, in troduces anything impure orlasc ivious

,i n order that the house of God may truly be

seen to answer to its name,A House of Prayer.”

I ndeed,al l concerted and part mus ic was l ike to have

been whol ly ban ished from the service of the church,

had not Palestrina saved it by the composition of theMass of Pope Marcel l us .”

A vis itor to Provence wil l look almost in vain forchurches in the Gothic style. A good many were bu i l tafter L ombard model s . There remained too many

1 Reuaz‘

rsauee in I taly :“ The Catholic Revival, I I . c. 1 2 .

GOTH IC ARCH ITECTURE 2 3

rel ics ofRoman structu res for the Provengals to takekindly to the pointed arch . The sun had not to beinvited to pour into the naves , but was excluded asmuch as m ight be, consequently the ri chly traceriedwindows of northern France find no place here. Theonly purely Gothic church of any size is that ofS . Maximin in Var. That having been a conventualchurch , imported its architects from the north.

One curious and indeed unique feature i s found inthe Provengal cathedral churches : the choir for thebishop and chapter i s at the west end , in the gal lery,over the narthex or porqh. This was so at Grasse i tremains intact at Vence.

CHAPTER II

LE GAI SABER

The formation of the Provengal tongue— Vernacular ballads and songsb rought into church—Recitative and formal music—Rhythmic music

of the pe0ple : traces of it in ancient times : S . Amb rose writes

hymns to it— People sing folk-songs in church— Hymns composed tofolk-airs—The language made literary by the Troub adours— Position ofwomen—The ideal love— Ideal love and marriage could not co -existWilliam de Balanu—Geofrey Rudel— Poem of Pierre de BarjacBoccaccio scouts the Chivalric and Troubadour ideals.

HAT the language of the L igurians was we donot know. Among them came the Phoen icians,

then the Greeks,next the Romans . The Roman

sold iery and slaves and commerc ial s d id not tal k thest i l ted L atin of Cicero

,but a simple vernacular. Next

came the Visigoths and the S aracens . What a j umbleof peoples and tongues ! And out of these tonguesfused together the L angue d

’

oc was evolved .

I t is remarkable how readi ly some subjugated peoplesacqu ire the language of their conquerors . The Gaulscame to speak L atin . The Welsh— the bu lk of thepop u lation was not British at al l ; dark-haired and darkeyed

,they were conquered by the Cymri and adopted

their tongue. So i n Provence, although there is a strongstrain of L igurian blood , the L igurian tongue is gone

2 4

SONGS ( IN CHURCH 2 5

past recal l . The prevai l ing language is Romance ; thati s to say

,the vernacular L atin . Verna means a slave ;

i t was the gabble of the lower classes , mainly a bastardL atin

,but hold ing i n suspense dri ft words from Greek

and Gaul ish and S aracen . I n substance it was thevulgar talk of the L atins . Of this we have curiou sevidence in 8 1 3. I n his old age Charlemagne concernedhimsel f much with Church matters , and he convokedfive Councils in five quarters of his empire to regulateChurch matters . These Counci ls me t i n Mainz, Rheims ,Chalons

, Tours, and A rles . I t was expressly laid downin al l ofthese

,save only in that of A rles, that the clergy

should catechise and preach in the vulgar tongue ; wherethere were Franks

,in German where there were Gauls

,

i n the Romance. But no such rule was laid down inthe Counci l ofA rles , for the very reason that Latin wassti l l the common language of the people

,the simple

L atin of the gosp els , such as was perfectly understoodby the people when addressed in it .The l iturgy was not fixed and un iform . I n many

secondary points each Church had its own use. Wheremost l iberty and variety existed was in the hymns . TheS IngIng of hymns was no t formal ly introduced into theoflice s of the Church ti l l the tenth centu ry ; but everychurch had its col lection of hymns

,sung by the peop l e

at vigi l s , i n processions , i ntercalated in the offices . I nNormandy it was a matter of comp laint that whilst thechoir took breath the women broke in with unsu itablesongs , uuguez

'

s eum‘

uleu z'

s. A t funerals such coarse bal ladswere sung that Charlemagne had to issue orders thatwhere the mourners did not know any psalm they wereto shout Ky rz

’

e elez'

sou,and nothingelse. Agobard, Bishop

of Lyons,A .D . 8 14

- 840, says that when he entered on

2 6 THE R IV IERA

his functions he found in use in the church an anti

phonary compiled by the Choir bishop, Amalric, consisting of songs so secular, and many of them so indecent,that

,to use the expression of the p iou s bishop, they

could not be read without mantl ing the brow withshame.

One of these early antiphonaries exists , a MS . of theeleventh century belonging to the church

' of S . Martial .Among many whol ly unobjectionable hymns occurs abal lad of the tale of Jud ith ; another is frankly aninvocation to the n ightingale, a springtide song ; a thi rdi s a d ialogue between a lover and his lass .I t i s i n the eccles iastical hymns

,rel igiou s lessons , and

legends couched in the form of bal lads , coming i nto usein the eighth and ninth centuries , that we have the germs,the rudiments

,of a new l iterature ; not on ly so, but also

the introduct ion of formal mus ic gradual ly displacingmusic that is recitative.

Of melodies there are two k inds, the first used asa hand

‘

maid to poetry ; i n i t there is nothing formal .A musical phrase may be repeated or may not

,as

requ ired to give force to the words employed . Thiswas the music of the Greek and Roman theatre . Thelyrics of Horace and T ibu l lu s cou ld be sung to noother. This , and this alone, was the mus ic adopted bythe Church

,and which we have sti l l in the N i cene

Creed,Gloria

, Sanctu s , and Pater Noster. But thisnever could have been the music of the people— it cou ldno t be used by sold iers to march to, nor by the peasantsas dance tunes .Did rhythm ic mus ic exist among the ancients s ide by

side with recitative ? A lmost certainly i t d id,utterly

despised by the cu ltured .

RHYTHM IC MUS IC 2 7

When Jul ius Caesar was celebrating his tri umph atRome after his Gaul ish V i ctories , we are informed thatthe sold iery marched singing out

Gallias Cae sar sub egitMithridates Caesarem .

Ecce Caesar nunc triumphat,Qui sub egit Gallias,Nicomedes non triumphat,Qui sub egit Caesarem.

This must have been sung to a formal melody, to whichthe soldiers tramped in time.

So also Ca sar, i n B .C . 49, l ike a l iberal -minded man,

desired to admi t the principal men of Cisalpine Gau linto the S enate. This roused Roman prej udice andmockery. Prej udice

,because the Gau ls were esteemed

barbarians ; mockery , because of their pecu l iar costume— thei r baggy trousers . So the Roman rabble composedand sang verses , z

'

lla vulgo eaueéam‘

ur.

”These may be

rendered in the same metre

Caesar led the Gauls in triumph,Then to Senate -house admits.

First must they pull off their trousers,Ere the laticlavus fits.

”

Now, i t may be noted that in both instances therhythm i s no t at al l that of the scient ifical ly constructedmetri c l ines of Horace, T ibul lus, and Catu l lus , but i sneither more nor less than our fam i l iar t ime. The

fi rst p iece of six l ines i n is precisely that of L o !

He comes in clouds descend ing. The second of fourl ines is that of the fam i l iar L atin hymn

,Tautum ergo,

2 8 THE R IV IERA

and is indeed that also of our hymn,

“ Hark ! the soundof holy voices.

” 1

Nor is this al l . Under Caesar ’s statue were scribbledthe l ines of a lampoon that also was i n S ueton ius

gives u s another snatch of a popular song relative toCmsar, i n the same measure . S urely this goes to establ ish the fact that the Roman popu lace had their ownfolk-music , which was rhythm ic

,with tonal accent.

dist inct from the fashionable music'

of the theatre.

Now,i t i s qu i te true that in Lat in plays there was

singing, and , what is more , songs introduced . For

instance , i n the Cup iz'

w'

of Plautu s,i n the third act

,

Hegio comes on the stage singing

Quid est suavius quamBene rem gerere b ono pub lico , sicut feciEgo heri, quum eius hosce homines, ub iquisque

Vident me hodie ,”e tc .

But I defy any music ian to set his song to anythingelse but reci tat ive the metre is intricate and varied .

Now of rhythm i c melody we have nothing more til lthe year A .D . 386 , when , at Mi lan , the Empress J ustinaordered that a Church should be taken from the Cathol icsand be del ivered over to the A rians .Thereupon S . Ambrose

,the bishop

,took up his abode

within the sacred bu ilding, that was also crowded by thefaithful

,who held i t as a garrison for some days . To

o ccupy the people Ambrose hasti ly scribbled downsome hymns— not at al l i n the old class ic metres , but

1 So Virgil Speaks ofthe soldiers singing as they marched, according torhythmic music

Withmeasured pace they marchalong,Andmake their monarch’s deeds their song.

z Enex’

a’

,viii. , 698

—9 .

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30 THE R I V IERA

nobles were renowned for gal lantry. I n fact,the kn ights

and barons and counts of the S outh plumed themselveson setting the fashion to Christendom . I n the S ouththere was none of that rival ry exist ing elsewherebetween the kn ights in their castles and the c it i zens inthe towns . I n every other part of Western Europe thel ine of demarcation was sharp between! the chivalryand the bourgeo is ie. Knighthood cou ld only be con

ferred on one who was noble and who owned land . I twas otherwise in the South ; the nobi l i ty and the com

mercial class were on the best of terms,and one great

factor in this fusion was the T roubadour,who m ight

spring from behind a counter as wel l as from a knightlycastle.

The chival ry of the South , and the T roubadour, evolvedthe strange and , to our ideas, repuls ive theory of love ,which was

,for a time

,un iversal ly accepted . What

originated it was thisI n the south of France women could possess fiefs

and al l the authority and power attaching to them .

From this pol it ical capacity of women i t fol lowed thatmarriages were contracted most ord inari ly by nobleswith an eye to the increase of thei r domains . Ambitionwas the dominant pass ion , and to that moral ity, sentiment

,i ncl inat ion

,had to give way and pass outside thei r

matrimon ial plans . Consequently, i n the feudal caste,marriages founded on such cons iderat ions were re

garded as commercial con tracts only, and led to a mostcurious moral and soc ial phenomenon .

The idea was formed of l ove as a sentimen t, fromwhich every sensual idea was excluded , i n which , on thewoman ’s s ide

,al l was conde scension and compass ion ,

on the man ’s al l submission and homage. Every

POS IT ION OF WOMEN 3 1

lady must have her devoted knight or minstrel— herlover

,i n fact

,who could no t and must not be her

husband ; and every man who aspired to be courteousmust have his m i stress.

There are, says a Troubadour, “ four degrees in Lovethe first is hesitancy, the second is supp liancy, the third isaccep tance, and the fourthis friendship . H e who would lovea lady and goes to court her, but does not venture on addressingher, is in the stage of Hesitancy. But if the lady giveshim any encouragement, and he ventures to tell her of his

pains, then he has advanced to the stage of Supp liant. And

if,after speaking to his lady and prayingher, she retains him

as her knight, by the gift of ribbons, gloves, or girdle, then heenters on the grade ofAccep tance. And if, finally, it p leasesthe lady to accord to her loyal accep ted lover so muchas akiss

,then she has e levatedhim to Friendship .

”

I n the l ife of a kn ight the contracting of suchan union was a most solemn moment. The ceremony by which it was sealed was formulated on thati n which a vassal takes oath of fealty to a sovereign .

Kneel ing before the lady,with his hands j oined

between hers,the knight devoted himsel f and al l h i s

powers to her, swore to serve her faithfu l ly to death ,and to defend her to the utmost of his power fromharm and insult. The lady

,on her side , accepted these

services,prom i sed in return the tenderest affections of

her heart,put a gold ring on his finger as pledge of

un ion,and then rais inghim gave him a kiss, always the

fi rst,and often the only one he was to receive from her.

An incident in the Provencal romance of Gerard deRoussi l lon shows us just what were the ideas prevalentas to marriage and love at this t ime. Gerard wasdesperately in love with a lady

,but she was moved by

3 2 THE R I V IERA

ambition to accept in his place Charles Martel,whom

the author makes into an Emperor. A ccord inglyGerard marries the s ister of the Empress on the sameday. No sooner is the double ceremon ial completethan

,

“ Gerard led the queen aside under a tree, andwithher cametwo counts and her sister (Gerard

’s j ust L acquired wife) .Gerard spoke and said, What wil l you say to me now

, 0 wifeof an Emperor, as to the exchange I have made of you for avery inferior article ? ’ ‘Do not say that,

’ answered the

Queen ;‘say a worthy object, ofhighvalue, Sir. But it is

true that throughyou I am become Queen , and that out oflove for me you have taken my sister to wife. Be you mywitnesses, Counts Gervais and Bertelais, and you also, mysister, and confidante of all my thoughts, and you, above all,Jesus, my Redeemer ; know all that I have given my love toduke Gerard alongwiththis ringand this flower. I love himmore than father and husband " Then they separated ; buttheir love always endured, without there ever being any harmcome of it, but only a tender longingand secret thoughts .

”

The coolness of Gerard , before his j ust- received wife,d isparaging her, and swearing everlasting love to thenew-made Queen

,the momen t after they have left

church,i s sufficiently astound ing.

S o completely was i t an accepted theory that lovecould not ex ist along with marriage, that it was heldthat even if those who had been lovers married

,un ion

z'

p soj aez‘

o dissolved love. A certain kn ight loved a lady,who , however, had set her affections on another. A ll

she cou ld prom i se the former was that should she loseher own true love , she would look to him . Soon afterthi s she married the lord of her heart, and at once thed iscarded lover appl ied to be taken on as her servitor.

THE IDEAL MARR IAGE 33

The lady refused , saying that she had her lover—herhusband ; and the controversy was brought before theCourt of L ove. E leanor of Poit iers presided , and pronounced against the lady. She condemned her to takeon the knight as her lover, because she actual ly hadlost her own lover

,by marryinghim.

We probably form an erroneous idea as to the immoral ity of these contracts

,because we attach to the

idea of love a concept ion foreign to that accorded it bythe chivalry of Provence in the twelfth centu ry. Wi ththem i t was a mystic exal tation

,an ideal is ing of a lady

into a being of superior virtue,beauty

,spiritual ity.

And because it was a purely ideal relation i t could notsubsist along with a material relation such as marriage .

It was because this connexion was ideal only that thecounts and viscounts and barons looked with so muchindifference

,or even indulgence, on their wives con

tracting i t . There were exceptions,where the lady

carried her condescension too far. But the very extravagance of terms employed towards the ladies i s thebest possible evidence that the T roubadours knew themvery little, and by no means intimately. Bertram

,to

Helena , was a bright part icu lar star,”

b ut only so

because he was much away from Rouss i l lon,and

So highab ove me

Inhis b right radiance and collateral lightMust I b e computed, not inhis Sphere

When she became his wife - she d iscovered that he wasa mere cub . Coel ia was no goddess to S trephon . S o

the privi leged“ servant

,

” worshipped,and only cou ld

frame his m ind to worship,because held at a great

distance, too far to note the imperfections in temper,i n person

,in m ind

,of the much-belauded lady .

D

34 THE R I V IERA

A friend told me that he was staggered out of hispostu re of wo rship to his newly acqu ired wife by seeingher clean her teeth . I t had not occurred to him thather lovely pearl s cou ld need a toothbrush .

Wi l l iam de Balaun, a good knight and T roubadou r,loved and served Guillelmine de Taviac

,wife of a

seigneur of that name. He debated in,his mind which

was the highest fel ici ty, winn ing the favou r of a lady,or

,after los ing i t, w inn ing i t back again . He resolved

to put this question to the proof,so he affected the

su lks,and behaved to the lady with rudeness— would

not speak,tu rned his back on her. A t fi rst she en

deavoured to soothe him , but when that failed withdrew,

and would have no more to say to him . De Balaun

now changed his mood , and endeavoured to make herunderstand that he was experimental ising i n the Gai

Saber, that was al l . She remained obdurate t i l l amutual friend intervened . Then she consented toreceive Wi l l iam de Balaun again into her favour, i f hewou ld tear out one of his nai ls and serve it up to heron a salver along with a po em in praise of her beauty.

And on these terms he recovered his former place.

Geofrey Rudel had neither seen the Countess ofT ripol i nor cast his eyes on her portrait

,but chose to

fal l in love with her at the s imple recital of her beautyand vi rtue. For l ong he poured forth verses in herhonour ; but at last , drawn to Syria by desire of seeingher

,he embarked , fel l mortal ly i l l on the voyage , and

arrived at T ripol i to expire ; satisfied that he hadbo ught at this pri ce the pleasure of casting his eyeson the princess

,and hearing her express sorrow that

he was to be snatched away.

In a great many cases, probably in the maj ority of

P IERRE DE BARJAC 35

cases,there was no amorous passion excited . I t was

simply a case of bread and butter. The swarm ofkn ights and T roubadours that hovered about an exaltedlady

,was drawn to her

,nOt at al l by her charms , but

by her table,kitchen , and cel lar— in a word , by cup

board love.

In their own l itt le bastides they led a dul l l i fe, andwere very impecunious . I f they could ge t some ladyof rank to accept their services , they obtained freequarters in her castle

,ate and drank of her be st

,and

received gratu ities for every outrageously flatteringsonnet. I f she were elderly and plain— that matterednot

,it rather favoured the acceptance

,for she wou ld

then no t be n ice in select ing her eker card. All thatwas asked in return was

,that he shou ld fetch her gloves ,

hold her stirrup, fight against any one who spoke adisparaging word , and turn heels over head to amuseher on a rainy day.

A l ittl e poem by Pierre de Barjac i s extant. He

loved and served a noble lady De Javac. One day she

gave him to understand that he was dismi ssed . He

retired , not a l ittle srirp rised and mortified , but returneda few days later with a poem

,of which these are some

of the s trophes

Lady, - I come before you, frankly to say good-bye for ever.

Thanks for your favour in giving me your love and‘

a merrylife, as longas it suited you . Now

, as it no longer suits you,it is quite right that you should pick up another friend whowill p lease you be tter than myself. I have naught against that.We part on good terms, as thoughnothinghad been betweenus.

Perhaps, because I seem sad, you may fancy that I amspeakingmore seriously than usual but that you are mistaken

36 THE R IV IERA

in this, I will convince you . I know well enoughthat youhave some one else in your eye. Well

, so have I in minesome one to love after being qu it of you . She wil l maintainme ; she is young, you are waxing old . If She be not quiteas noble as yourself, she is, at all events, far prettier and bettertempered .

“ If 0”

our mutual oath‘

of engagement is at all irksome toyour conscience, let us go before a

-

priest— you discharge me,

and I will discharge you . Then eachof us can loyally enteron a new love afi’air. If I have ever done anything to annoyyou, forgive me I

, on my part, forgive you withall myheartand a forgiveness without heart is no t worthmuch.

During the winter these professional lovers resided atthe castles of the counts and v iscounts . I n the springthey mounted their horses and wandered away, somein quest of a l ittle fighting, some to lo iter in d istantcourts

,some to attend to their own farms and l itt le

properties . Each as he left doubtless received a pursefrom the lady he had served and sung,

together with afresh pair of stockings , and with h is l inen put in order.

“ Love, says Mr. Green,in his H z

'

sfory of Me E nglz’

s/z

P eop le,“ was the one theme of troubadour and trouveur ;

but it was a love of refinement, of romantic foll ies, of scholasticdiscussions, of sensuous enjoyment— a p laything rathe r thana passion . Nature had to reflect the p leasant indolence ofman ; the song of the m instrel moved througha perpetualMay

-time ; the grass was ever green ; the music of the larkand the nightingale rang out from field and thicket. Therewas a gay avoidance of all that is serious, moral, or reflectivein man’s life. Life was too amusing to be serious, too piquant,too sentimental, too full of interest and gaiety and chat.

”

That this professional , sentimental love -making went

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38 THE R I V IERA

indecent of these tales . Marriage offers a never-failing themefor scorn ; and when, by way of contrast, the novelist paintsan ideal wife

, he runs into such hyperboles that the verypatience of Griselda is a satire on its dignity .

” 1

I Rm az'

sranee in I taly .

“ Italian Literature , i. , e . 2 .

CHAPTER II I

MARSE I LLES

The arrival of the Phocoeans—The story of Protis and Gyp tis—Siege of

Marseilles by Caesar—Pythias the first to describe Britain—The old

city—Encroachment of the sea— S. Victor— Christianity : when intro

duced—S . Lazarus—Cannebiere—The old galley— Siege by the Constab le de Bourbon—Plague—The Canal de Marseilles—The plague of

1 720—Bishop Belz unce—The Revolution—The Marseillaise—TheReign ofTerror at Marseilles—The Clary girls.

S has been already stated, Massil ia, or Marseil les ,was original ly a Phoenic ian trading station . Then

it was occup ied by the Phocoeans from A s ia Minor. I tcame about in this fashion .

I n the year B .C . 599 a few Phocoean vessel s , under the

gu idance of an adventurer cal led Eumenes , arrived in thebay of Marsei l les . The first care of the new arrivals wasto place themselves under the protection ofthe L igurians ,and they sent an ambassador, a young Greek namedPro tis

,with presents to the native chief

,Nann

,at A rles .

By a happy coinc idence Protis arrived on the day uponwhich Nann had assembled the warriors of his tribe

,

and had brought forth his daughter, Gyptis, to choose ahusband among them . The arrival of the young Greekwas a veritable coup de t/ze

’

dtro. He took his place atthe banquet. His Greek beauty

,his gracefu l form and

pol ished manners, so differen t from the ruggedness anduncouthness of the L igurians

,impressed the damsel

,

40 THE R I V IERA

and going up to him , she presented him with the gobletofwine, which was the symbol of betrothal . Pro tis pu ti t to his l ips

,and the al l iance was concluded .

The legend i s doubtless mythical , but it shows us, dis

gu ised under the form of a tale,what actual ly took

place, that the I on ian settlers d id contract marriageswith the natives . But the real great Tnigration tookplace i n B.C . 542 , fifty-seven years later.Harpagus, the general of Cyrus , was ravaging As ia

Minor, and he invested Phocoea. A s the Ion ians in thetown found that they could hold out no longer, their

general , D ionysos , thus addressed them

Our affairs are in a critical state, and we have to decide atonce whether we are to remain free

, or to bow our necks inservitude, and be treated as runaway slaves . Now

,if you be

willing to undergo some hardships, you will be able to secureyour freedom.

”

Then he advised that they should lade their vessel swith al l thei r movable goods , put on them thei r wivesand children

,and leave their native land .

S oon after this Harpagus saw a long l ine of vessel s ,thei r sai l s swel led with the wind

,and the water glancing

from their oars , i ssue from the p ort and pass away overthe blue sea towards the western sun . All the inhabitantshad abandoned the town . D ionysos had heard a goodreport ofthe L igurian coast , and thither he steered , andwas welcomed by his countrymen who had settled therehalf a century before.

But the L igurians d id not rel ish this great migrat ion ,and they resolved on massacring the new arrivals, and

”

of tak ing advantage of the celebration of the F l oralGames for carrying out thei r plan . A ccord ingly they

S IEGE Bv CE SAR 4 1

sent in their weapons through the gates of Marseil les ,heaped over with flowers and boughs, and a party ofL igurians presented themselves unarmed , as flocking i nto witness the festival . But other L igurian girl s besideGyp t is had fal len in love with and had contractedmarriages with the Greeks , and one of these betrayedthe plot . A ccordingly the Phocoeans closed the ir gates ,and drawing the weapons from under the w reaths offlowers

,s laughtered the L igurians with their own arms .

From Marseil les the Greeks spread along the coastand founded numerous other towns

,and , penetrating

in land,made of A rles a Greek city.

In the c ivi l war that broke out between Caesar andPompey, Marsei l les , unhapp i ly for her, threw in her lotwith the latter. Caesar

,at the head of his legions, ap

peared before the gates , and found them C losed againsthim. It was essential for Caesar to obtain possess ion ofthe town and port

,and he invested it . Beyond the

wal ls was a sacred wood in which mysterious rites wereperformed , and which was held in the highest venerationby the Massilio ts. Cmsar ordered that it should behewn down ; but his soldiers shrank from profan ing i t.Then snatching up an axe, he exclaimed ,

“ Fear no t,I

take the crime upon mysel f ! ” and smote at an oak.

Emboldened by his words and action,the soldiers now

fel led the trees, and out of them Cae sar fashioned twelve

gal leys and'

various machines for the siege.Obl iged to hurry into Spain , he left some of his best

troops under his l ieutenants C . T rebonius and D .

Brutus to continue op erations against Marsei l les ; theformer was in command of the land forces

,and Brutus

was admi ral of the improvised fleet. The people of

Marseil les were now reinforced by Domitius,one of

4 2 THE . R I V IERA

Po'

mpey’s most trusted generals, and they managed toscrape together a fleet of seventeen gal leys .This fleet received orders to

,

attack that of Bru tus,

and i t sho t out of the harbour. Brutus awaited i t,drawn up i n crescent form . His ships were cumbrous ,and not manned by such dextrous navigators as theGreeks. But he had furn ished himselfwith grappl ingi rons , and when the Greek vesseIS

'

came on,he flung out

h is harpoons , caught them ,and brought the enemy to

the s ide ofhis vessels,so that the fight became one of

hand to hand as on platforms,and the advantage of

the nautical sk i l l of the Massiliots was neutral ised .

They lost n ine gal leys , and the remnant with d ifficu ltyescaped back into port .The bes ieged , though defeated , were not d isheartened .

They sent to friendly cities for aid,they seized on

merchant vessel s and converted them into men of war,

and Pompey, who knew the importance of Marseil les,sent Nasidius with s ixteen tri remes to the aid of theinvested town .

Again thei r fleet sal l ied forth . This t ime they weremore wary

,and backed when they

'

saw the harpoonsshot forth

,so that the grapp l ing i rons fel l innocuously

into the sea. F i nd ing al l h is efforts to come to closequarters with the enemy unavail ing, Brutus signal led tohis vessel s to draw up in hol low square , prows outward .

Nasidius, who was in command of the Massiliot fleet,

had he used his j udgment, should have waited til l arough sea had Opened the j oints of the Opposed ranks ,and “broken the formation . I nstead of doing this, heendeavoured by ramming the s ides to break the square ,with the resul t that he damaged his own vessel s, whichwere the l ightest and least wel l protected at the bows ,

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44 THE R I V IERA

the sun , offering to it hecatombs of wi ld asses,and

whence came the most preciou s of metals— tin,withou t

which no bronze cou ld be fabricated . The w ay to thismysterious land was known only to the Carthagin ians ,and was kept as a profound secret from the PhocoeanGreeks

,who had occupied their colony at Marseil les

,and

were engross ing thei r commerce. The Phoen ic ians of

Tyre and S idon , and of Carthage , had secured a mon

o poly of the m ineral trade. S pain was the Mexico ofthe antique world . I t was fabled that the Tagus rol ledover sands of gold , and the Guad iana over a floor ofs i lver. The Phoen ician sai lors

,i t was reported

,rep l aced

their anchors of i ron with masses ofs i lver and that theI berians employed gold for mangers , and S i lver for theirvats of beer ; that the pebbles of their moors were puretin , and that the Iberian gi rl s

“ streamed ” the rivers inwicker cradles

,washing out t in and gold , lead and s i lver.

But as more was known of S pain , i t was ascertainedthat these legends were true only in a l imi ted degree ;t in and si lver and lead were there

,bu t no t to the amount

fabled . Therefore i t was concl uded that the treasu reland was farther to the north . Not by any means , byno bribery

,by no persuas ion

,not by tortu re

,cou ld the

secret be wrung from the Phoen ic ians whence they p rocured the inestimable treasu re of tin . Only it was knownthat much of i t came from the North , and by a traderoute through Gau l to the Rhone ; but also , and mainly,by means of vessel s of the Phoenicians passing throughthe S tra its into the unknown ocean beyond .

A ccord ingly, the merchants of Marsei l les resolved onsend ing an expedit ion in quest ofthis mysterious Hyperborean land

,and they engaged the services of Pythias ,

an em inent mathematic ian of the c ity, who had already

PYTH IAS VI S ITS BR ITA IN 45

made himself famous by his measurement of the decl ination of the ecl ipt ic

,and by the calcu lation of the latitude

of Marsei l les . A t the same time the merchants despatched another exped ition to explore the A fricancoast

,under the d irection of one Euthymes

, anotherscientist of thei r city. Unhapp i ly,

the record of thevoyage of this latter is lost ; but the diary of Pythias ,very careful ly kept

,has been preserved in part, quoted

by early geographers who trusted him , and by S trabo,who poured scorn on his d iscoveries because they controverted his preconceived theories .Pythias publ ished his ‘diary in two books , entitled

Tb e Circu it of t/ze World and Commentaries concerning

the Oeean. From the fragments that remain we cantrace his course. L eaving Marsei lles , he coasted roundSpain to Brittany ; from Brittany he struck Kent , andvisited other parts of Britain then from the Thames hetravel led to the mouths of the Rhine

,passed round Jut

land,entered the Balt i c , and went to the mouth of the

Vistula thence out of the Baltic and up the coast ofNorway to the A rct i c Ci rcle ; thence he struck west, andreached the Shetlands and the North of S cotland , andcoasted round the British I sles t i l l again he reachedA rmorica ; and so to the estuary of the Garonne, whencehe journeyed by land to Marsei lles .Pythias remained for some time in Britain

,the country

to which,as he said , he paid more attent ion than to any

other which he V i s ited in the cou rse of his travels andhe claimed to have investigated al l the accessible partsof the I sland

,and to have traced the eastern s ide

throughout. He arrived in Kent early in the summer,

and remained there unti l harvest t ime,and he again

returned after his voyage to the A rctic Circle. He says

46 THE R I V IERA

that there was p lenty ofwheat grown in the fields ofBritain

,but that it was thrashed out i n barns

,and not

on unroofed floors as in the sunny cl imate of Marsei l les .He says that a drink to which the Britons were partia lwas composed of wheat and honey— in a word , methegl in .

I t is greatly to be regretted that of this interesting andhonestly wri tten d iary on ly scraps remain .

1

The old ci ty of Phoen ic ians and Phocoeans occupiedthat po rt ion of the present town lying between the seaand the ancient port

,and the walls cut across from the

A nse de la Jol iette, mounted the Butte des Carmes anddescended to the head of the Vieux-po rt. The Buttedes Moul ins was the A cropol is , and on it stood templesof the gods of Carthage and Greece. The sea-face wasformerly Very different from what i t i s now. Caesarspeaks of Marsei l les being washed by the sea on threes ides . The sea has eaten away a very large portion of

the pen insula. The cathedral , La Major,was not

formerly on the quay ; ti l l the end of the eighteenthcentury its principal portal faced the sea. A t the close

ofthat century, so much of the town havingbeen washedaway

,and so sapped was the rock on that s ide

,that

a doorway had to be opened on the landside. An oldchapel exist ing in 1 202 stood at a poin t now 2 50 feetfrom the land . Recent works, the format ion of a succession of basins, have arrested this degradation of thecoast

,and have regained some of the lost land .

Marsei l les l ies in an amphitheatre, but this i s onlyreal ised when the city is approached from the sea . To

those arriving by rai l i t appears to be a town scattered

over a series of hil ls, very irregular and of a very con

fused plan . All that portion of the town that l ies south1 See ELTON

’

S Origins ofEnglishHistory. London : 1 890, pp . 6- 32 .

S . V ICTOR, 47

of the Vieux-po rt, abo ut the Palais de Just ice to wherethe hil l rises

,was formerly morass the houses here have

no cel lars,and are bu i lt

,l ike Amsterdam,

‘

on piles . Abovethe Bass in de Carinage ri ses the Church of S . Victor,buil t in the eleventh and extended in the thirteen thcentu ry . The towers and ramparts were erected byWi l l iam de Grimoard i n 1 350. He had been prIor of

the monastery—

ofS . Victor, and afterwards became pop eunder the name of Urban V. All this portion of ris ing

ground to the south of the old harbour seems to havebee n the refuge of the fi rst Christ ians . Excavationsmade in extending the bas in laid bare vestiges of catacombs of a very early period

,earl ier

,in fact

,in some

cases than the Christian era. I n the fourth century themonk Cassian founded a monastery above these catacombs . I t was destroyed by the S aracens and rebui lt,and be came a vastly wealthy foundation . The monasteryon one s ide of the port

,and the cathedral with its ap

purtenances on the other,were not under the j urisd iction

of the municipal authorities ofMarseil les but each hadits own town of dependencies under separate government.What remains of this famous abbey bears an aspect

of a citadel rather than of a church . I t is anextraord inary jumble ofparts, and from without looks as i f i twere whol ly planless .When , and through whom ,

Christian ity was planted inMarsei l les , i s unknown for the trad ition of the apostleship there of L azarus

,whom Christ raised from the

dead , must be d ismi ssed as id le fable. The trad itionaltale is as fol lows

,but there is no earl ier authority for it

than a legend of the twelfth century, and this is mererel igious romance.

48 THE R IV IERA

When persecution broke out i n Jerusalem,Martha

,

Mary Magdalen , a‘

Bishop Maximin,and a Deacon

Parmenas, and L azarus , took a boat and sai led merri lyover the sea til l they came to Provence . Maxim insettled at Aix . Mary Magdalen reti red to the caveLa S ainte Beaume

,and Martha k il led a dragon at

Tarascon,and establ ished herself in i ts lai r. Lazarus

remained at Marseil les,and became its fi rst bishop .

The first bishop of Marsei l les known to history isOrestius

,A .D . 3 14 ; and no t a particle of evidence worth

a rush ex ists to substantiate the story of L azarus,

Martha,and Mary

,having ever come to Provence .

The street cal led Canneb iére leads to the Vieux-port .Cannebiere means a rope-walk

,and here were s ituated

the workshops of those who suppl ied the vessel s withcordage and sai l s . When the old port was being cleanedout

,an ancient gal ley was found at a depth of fi fteen

feet , bu il t of cedar wood , with coins earl ier, contem

p orary with, and sl ightly later than Ju l iu s Caesar.I t is perhaps not to be wondered at that not a scrap

of ancient Massi l ia should remain above ground , not afragment ofc i ty wall , of temple, or of amphitheatre, forthe val leys have been choked up to the depth of eighteento twenty feet

,and the summ its of the rounded hi l l s

have been shorn off. But to obtain some idea of thepast

,the A rchaeological Museum at the extremity of

the Prado shou ld be vis ited . One room is devoted tothe remains of pagan Massi l ia , another to the Christ iansarcophagi d iscovered in the catacombs of S . Victor.The s iege of Marsei l les by the army of Caesar was by

no means the only trial of that description the city hadto undergo . The next most serious investment wasthat by the Constable de Bourbon, who had trans

S IEGE Bv DE BOURBON 49

ferred his services to Charles V. and fought against h issovereign , Francis I . Pope L eo X . had stirred up theemperor and had effected a coal it ion of England ,A ustria

,Milan

,Venice

,F lorence, and Genoa, against

France . Charles despatched the Constable de Bourbonagainst Marsei l les , and he appeared before i t on

August 19th, 1 524 , but me t with a stubborn resistance.

Furious at not be ing able to obtain a surrender, heordered a general assau lt, and promi sed his sold iers tosuffer them to pil lage the town at their own sweet wi l l .On September 2 5th the besiegers attacked the wal ls ,managed to beat down a

'

portion and form a breach,

through which they pou red exultan t. But bitter wastheir d isappointment when they discovered that thebesieged had raised a second wall within , i n crescentform

,on the top of which was the garrison , armed with

culverins,and that at the points of j unct ion of the new

wal l with the old were planted cannon which,with

their cross fi re,cou ld mow down al l who rushed into

the semilunar area . The S panish battal ions hesitated,

but were urged forward by their captains, and a frightful carnage ensued . The sp ace was heaped with dead ,

and the baffled Constable,with rage in his heart

,

runn ing short of ammunition and provis ions , was forcedto raise the s iege and retire, on the n ight of September 2 sth.

But that which has proved to Marsei l les more fatalthan sieges has been the plague , which has reappearedtime after time, becoming almost endem i c. The un

sanitary condition of the town , the absence of wholesome water

,invited its presence. The magnificen t

works of the canal of Marsei l les now conduct to thetown the waters of the Durance. This canal was con

E

50 THE R I V IERA .

s tructed be tween 1 837 and 1 848 , extends a length ofn inety-five miles

,and is carried through tunnels and

over aqueducts . The body ofwater thus conducted toMarsei l les not on ly suppl ies the precious l iqu id fordrinking and bathing, but also sends ri l l s to water the

gardens which wou ld otherwise be barren . How

necessary this great work was may be j udged fromthe number of deaths at Marsei l les at the outbreak ofthe plague in 1 7 20,

when from to personssuccumbed .

Am idst the general despair, selfishness, and depravi tythat then manifested itself

,the Bishop Belz unce , some

of his clergy, and the governor of the town, showednoble self-possess ion and devotion .

“ The physicians sent to Marseilles by the Government,”

says Mery, on arriving found in the p lace over deadand nine to ten thousand sick or dying. The frightfu lspectacle so affected them that they could hardly eat . In

traversing the town, in p laces they could hardly step withoutencountering heap s of corpses. The p lague-stricken felt aflicker ofhope on seeing doctors approach, but this soon diedout. Fathers and mothers dragged their children into thestreets, and abandoned them after p lacing a j ug of water attheir side. Children exhibited a revolting lack of feel ing.

All generous sentiments had been paralysed by the hand ofdeath. The mortality was so great and rapid in its marchthat the corpses piled up before the houses, and in the church

porches, indeed everywhere, empested the air. In the heat,

the bodies rapidly putrified and dissolved, falling apart instrips . Allwere naked the sick were covered by a few rags.Women half-clothed appealed for a drop of water, pointing tothe fetid rill that trickled down the gutter ; and as no oneattended to them,

they used their failingpowers to crawl to it,often withtheir babes at their breasts, to dip their lips in the

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52 THE R I V IERA

continued to rage t i l l September, but abated after aviolent sto rm , and disappeared in November. A t theRevolu tion the merchant aristocracy did no t rel ish themovement , fearing an attack on property ; but the lowerclasses were maddened with enthusiasm for the “ rightsofman

,

” which meant the right to chop off the head ofevery one of whom they were envious

,and of appro

p riating to themselves the sayings‘of the industrious .

Marsei l les fu rn ished , from the dregs of i ts population,

the bands of assass in s which marched to Paris,scream

ing forth Rouget de l’

Isle’

s hymn,which thenceforth

took the name of the Marsei l laise ; and these bandswere foremost i n the September massacres in Paris .The Reign of Terror at Marseil les i tsel f, under the

infamous Fréron and Barras,saw fou r hundred heads

fal l upon the scaffold,to the shouts of the mob

, Ca i ra !Plus la Républ ique coupe de tetes

,plus la Républ ique

s’

affermit.”

A t Marseilles, JosephBonaparte, when acting there asWar Commissioner

,me t the s isters C lary. A t his very

fi rst visi t he had been bil leted on the soap -boi ler,and

now,when again in the place , he lost his heart to one

of the gi rl s . Both were destined to be queens . J ul ie

(Marie) was born in 1 777 , and married Joseph in 1 794I n 1 797 Joseph was sent as ambassador to Rome , andhe took withhim his wife and her s ister Eugen ie Dés iréeshe was engaged to be married to General Dupho t, whowas with Joseph in Rome . On the eve of thei r weddinga .disturbance took place in the streets of the E ternalC ity

,caused by a ris ing of the revol utionary party.

Duphot ran among them ,whether to encourage them

or d issuade them from violence is uncertain ; but hewas shot by the Papal soldiery in the tumult. Six

JUL IE AND EUGEN IE 53

months later Eugenie Dés irée dried her tears inher bridal vei l

,when she married the saddler’s son

Bernadotte,who was destined to wear the crown of

Sweden .

Joseph became King of Naples and then of Spain .

Madame de Genl is,who knew both the young women ,

has a good word to say for them . Of Jul ie, the wife ofJoseph , she says

She always reminded me of the princesses of the OldCourt

,and she had all the bearing and carriage of the last

p rincess of Conti. If Heaven had chosen to cause her to beborn on a throne it could nOt have renderedhermore suitable,withhergraciousness , a great quality, whichshou ld characteriseall princes, andwhichwithher was perfected by being unitedto the most sincere p iety, andhatred of all ostentation .

”

Of Eugenie, who became Queen of Norway andSweden , She says

I had the honour to make the acquaintance ofMadameBernadotte, sister of the Queen of Spain, who then had allthe charms of a gracefu l figure, and the most agreeablemanners . I was struck with the harmony that existed between her amiable face, her conversation, and her mind .

”

Addison,who sailed from Marsei l les onDecember 1 2 th,

1699 (Macaulay says the date Should be andsk irted the L igurian coast to Genoa, was surpri sed anddel ighted to see

“the mountains cover’d withgre en Olive-trees , or laid out inbeautifu l gardens, whichgave us a great Variety of p leasingProspects, even in the Dep thofWinter. The most uncultivated of them produce abundance of sweet Plants, as WildThyme, Lavender, Rosemary, Balm and Myrtle.

”

54 THE R I V IERA

his “ L etter from I taly he writes

See how the golden groves around me smile ,That shun the coast of Britain’s stormy isle ,Or when transplanted and p reserv

’d withcare,Curse the cold clime

, and starve in Northern air.

H ere kindly warmththeir mounting j uice ferments,

To nob ler tastes, and more exalted scents

Ev’n the roughrocks withtender myrtleb loom,

And trodden weeds send out a richperfume .

”

CHAPTER IV

A city _left solitary

—Foundation of Aquae Sextiae—The Invasion of

Cimb ri and Teutons— Defeat of the Romans- Blunders of the

barbarians— Defeat ofCoepio and Manlius—Marius sent against thebarbarians— Defeat of the A

'

mbrons— Destruction of the Teutons

Ste . Victoire— The Garagoul— King Remez SirWalter Scott’s character

of him : his imprisonment : his failure in Naples : retires to Pro

vence : character ofhis daughter, Queen Margaret— The processionat Aix— The Feast of Fools- Death of Re

’

né : carrying off of hiscorpse

—Destruction ofthe tomb s at Angers— Cathedral—Museum.

X is perhaps the most dejected of c ities . A t one

time the l i fe blood of the emp ire poured throughit. The great road that left the F laminian gate of

Rome,passed along the coast

’

of the L igurian Gulf,crossed the shoulder of the A lps at L a T urbie, andthen

, going through N i ce and by Cannes,reached

Frej us . A t that point i t tu rned inland,left the sea

behind , and made direct for Aix . Thence i t stretchedaway to A rles, and from that C ity radiated the routes toSpain , throughout Gaul , and to the Rhine. Throughthe market p assed al l the trade of the West ; throughit tramped the legions for the conquest of Bri tain

,and

the defence of the Rhenish frontier ; through it travel ledthe treasure for the pay of the soldiery through it

streamed the l ines of captives for the slave market at

Rome.

56 THE R IV IERA

But now,Aix i s on no artery of communication . To

reach i t, one most go in a loitering and roundaboutfashion by branch l ines

,on which run no express trains

,

i n company with oxen in pens and trucks ofcoal .Marsei l les has d rained away the traffic that formerly

ebbed and flowed through Aix ,leaving i t l istless and

l ifeless . But if we desire rel ics and re min iscences of

the past we must not omit a vis it to.Aix .

Aqua: Sex tiae owes i ts foundation to Sex tius Calvinus ,i n B .C. 1 24. The town has thrice shifted its s i te. Theold L igurian fortified town was on the heights ofEntremont, three ki lometres to the north— and tracesof i t remain , but what its name was we do not know.

A fter the defeat of the L igurians , Sex tius Calvinusplanted the Roman town about the hot springs ; butthe modern town l ies to the east. A fter his V i ctoryover the Ambrons and Teutons Marius rested hereand adorned the town with monuments

,and led water

to i t by the aqueduct,of which fragments remain .

Caesar planted a colony here,and the place enjoyed

great prosperity. I t was sacked and destroyed by theS aracens in 73 1 , and but slowly recovered from itsashes . From the thirteenth century the counts of Provence held thei r court at Aix , and here l ived andpainted and sang good King Réné, of whom morepresently.

Aix fi rst rIses to notice conspicuously through thedefeat of the Ambro -Teutons by Marius B .C . 102 . Ihave described the campaign at some length in my bookIn Trououu

’

our Land, as I went over the whole of the

ground careful ly. Here I wil l but sum up the storybriefly.

The Cimbri from what is now J utland , the Teutons ,

C IMBR I AND TEUTONS 57

and the Ambrons, driven from their northern lands byan inundation of the sea

,so it was repo rted , more pro

bably drawn sou th by desire of reaching - ferti le andwarmer seats than the bleak wastes of Northern Germany

,crossed the Rhine to the n umber of

fight ing men , accompan ied by their wives and children ,and moved south . All Gau l , and even Rome, trembledbefore them,

and the Senate despatched the ConsulPapirius Carbo against them . Having occupied thedefiles of the A lps, the Consu l opened negotiations withthe barbarians

,who pleaded to have lands al lotted to

them. T rue to the unscrupu lou s principles of Rome,

i n deal ing with an enemy , he proposed an arm istice,which was accepted , and , profiting by this , he fel ltreacherously on the enemy by n ight, when leastexpected by the barbarians, who rel ied on his pacificassurances . But the C imbri , though taken at a disadvantage, ral l ied and drove the legions back in d isorder. On his retu rn to Rome, Carbo was subjected toaccusations by M . Antonius, and put an end to his l i feby drinking a solution of vitriol . I nstead of profit ing bythis great victory to enter I taly, the horde retraced itssteps and turned towards I l lyria and Thrace ; afterdevastating these, they again reappeared in Gau l on theright bank of the Rhone, laden with spoi ls. Ju l iusS ilanus, governor of the province, hastened to blocktheir course

,and the barbarians again asked to be

granted lands on which to settle, offering i n return to

p lace their arms at the service of Rome. S i lanusreferred the p rOposal to the S enate. The reply wasone of insolent refusal and defiance. This so e xas

perated the Cimbri and Teutons t hat they resolved on

crossmg the Rhone and exacting at the point of the

58 THE R I V IERA

sword what had been refused as a vol untary concession .

I n vain did a Roman army endeavou r to dispute withthem the passage of the river. They crossed

,fel l on

the Romans,and slaughtered them .

A fter this great success, the’

barbarians,instead of

pursu ing thei r advantage, spread through the provinceand formed an al l iance with the Volc i Tectosages, whohad their capital at Toulouse . Then they hurried towards Northern Gaul . T he consul Coepio was sen tto

‘

chastise the Volc i for their defection,and he took and

pil laged Toulouse . The Cimbri and Teutons,on hearing

of this,retraced their steps and confronted Coepio . But a

year was al lowed to pass without any -decis ive actionbeing fought .I n the meantime a fresh army had been raised in

Rome,and despatched to the aid of Coepio ,

underthe command of Manl ius. I n a fi t of jealousy Coepioretired to the left bank , encamped apart, and refusedto hold any communication with Manl ius ; and , that hemight have an opportun i ty of finishing the war himsel f,he pitched his quarters between Manlius and the enemy.

A t this j uncture, with such a form idable host threatening,

the u tmost prudence and unan imity were neededby the two commanders ; this the sold iers perceived ,and they compel led Coepio , against his wil l , to un ite hi sforces with those of Manl iu s . But this d id not mend

matters . They quarrel led again , and again separated .

The barbarians , who were informed as to the conditionof affairs

,now fel l on one army and then on the other

,

and utterly routed both . E ighty thousand Romansold iers and forty thousand camp fol lowers perished ;only ten men are said to have escaped the slaughter.I t was one of the most crushingdefeats the Romans had

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60 THE“

R I V IERA

p al isades of the camp , shout ing deris ively,“We are on

our way to Rome ! Have you any messages for yourwives and chi ldren ? Six days were spent i n themarch past.Wi th d ifficu l ty Marius restrained his men . Only

when the last of the Ambrons , who brought up therear

,had gone by did Marius break up his camp . He

had along with him his wife , J ulia , and a Syriansorceress named Martha . This woman , gorgeouslyattired

,wearing a mitre

,covered with chains of go ld ,

and hold ing a javel in hungwith ribbons, was now produced before the sold iery, and , fal l ing i nto an ecstasy,she prophes ied victory to the Roman arms . Mariusnow moved east

,fol lowing the horde , keeping,

however,to the h igh ground , the summit of the l imestone cliffs,and he came suddenly upon the Ambrons at Le s Milles ,fou r miles to the sou th of Aix . A t this point red sandstone heights stand above the l ittle river Are , and fromunder the rocks ooze innumerable streams . Here theAmbrons were bathing , when the Roman legionariesappeared above.

Marius saw that the Ambrons had become detachedfrom the Teutons, who were pushing on to Aix . He

had now no o ccasion to restrain his sold iers,who poured

down the hil l and cut the enemy to pieces .Then he thrust on in pursu it of the Teutons . He

knew the ground thoroughly. The road beyond Aixran through a bas in—a plain bordered by mountainheights , those on the north sheer prec ipices of yel lowand pink l imestone , those on the south no t abrupt

,and

clothed with coppice and box shrubs. He detachedClaud ius Marcel l us to make a circu it to the north of

the l imestone range,with the caval ry

,and to take

STE . V ICTO IRE 6 1

up a position where the road emerges from thebasin

,at its eastern l imit. He , with the main body of

his army, by forced marches outstrippe d the Teutons,he moving to the south , out of s ight in the brushwood ,and came out where stands now the town of T rets .Thence he advanced down the slope towards the plain ,which is red as blood with sandstone and clay, andwhere were tile works , Ad Tegulata. The Teutons hadalready encamped , when they saw the Romans. An

engagement at once began . Whil st i t was in progress ,Marcel lus came down in their rear with his caval ry. Theresult was a rout and a slaughter. Few were sparedamong the fightingmen .

,

Over were slaughteredor made prisoners . Their wives and children

,thei r

camp,and al l their plunder, fel l to the victors . So great

was the carnage , that the putrefying remains of theGermans gave to the spot the name of Campi Putridi ,now corrupted into Pourrieres .A monument was afterwards erected where the

fiercest of the battle raged , the foundations of whichremain ; and here was found the statIIe ofVenus Victrix

,

now in the Museum of Avignon ; and at Pourrieresa triumphal arch was raised that sti l l stands to com

memorate the V ictory. On the crag to the north,

commanding the field,a temple ofVictory was erected

that in Christian times became. a chap el of'S te . Victoire ,

and the great del iverance in B .C . 1 20 i s stil l commemorated by the l ighting of bonfi res on the heights ,and by a pilgrimage and mass said in the chapel onMarch 2 3rd. A l ittle convent was erected near thechapel

,that is now in ru ins ; the existing chapel dates

from only 1 66 1 . A t the Revolution it was al lowedto fal l to decay , but has since be en restored . The

THE R I V IERA

height of S te . Victo ire is noted as the resort of aspecial k ind of eagl e , resembling the golden eagle, butmore thickset

,and with “ white scapulars .

I t may be remembered that Sir Walter S cott hasplaced one of the scenes of Anne of Geierstein at theMonastery of S te . Victoire.

Near the chapel i s the cavern of L'

Ou Garagoul

“ In the midst of this cavernous thoroughfare, says SirWalter, is a natural pit or perforation of great, but unknown,depth. A stone dropped into it is heard to dashfrom sideto side, until the noise of its descent, thundering from cliff tocliff, dies away in distant and faint tinkling, less loud than thatof a sheep

’s bell at a mile’s distance. The traditions of themonastery annex wild and fearfu l recollections to a p lace initself sufficiently terrible. Oracles, it is said, spoke fromthence in pagan days by subterranean voices, arising from theabyss.”

The pit is,i n fact

,one of these avens so commonly

found on the l imestone courses . The description i ssomewhat overdrawn

,but S ir Wal ter had never seen

the place,and al l he knew of i t was second hand .

W i th Aix ,King Réné i s inseparably associated , that

most unfortunate Mark Tapley of monarchs claim ingto be King of Jerusalem

,A ragon , of Naples and of

S ic i ly, of Valencia, Majorca, Minorca, of Cors ica andS ard in ia— to wear n ine crowns , and yet no t possessing arood of territory in one of them ; Duke of Anjou andBar

,but despoi led ofhis dukedoms

,and reduced to only

his county of Provence.

SirWalter S cott pretty accurately describes him

Réné was a prince of very moderate parts, endowed witha love of the fine arts

,whichhe carried to extremity, and a

K ING RENEFrom the Tripty ehe

'

u A ix Cathedral

K ING RENE 63

degree of goodhumour, whichnever permitted him to rep ineat fortune, but rendered its possessor happy, when a prince ofkeenerfeelings would have died of despair. This insouciant,light-tempered, gay, and thoughtless disposition, conductedRéné, free from all the passions whichemb itter life, and oftenshorten it

,to ahale andmirthful old age . Even domestic losses,

whichoften affect those who are proofagainst mere reverses offortune, made no deep impression on the feelings ofthis cheerful old monarch. Most of his childrenhad died young Réné

took it not to heart. His daughter Margaret’s marriage with

the powerfu l Henry of England was considered a connexionmuchabove the fortunes of

'the King of the Troubadours .

But in the issue, instead of Réné deriving any sp lendour fromthe match

,he was involved in the misfortunes of his

daughter, and repeatedly obliged to impoverishhimse lf to

supp ly her ransom .

”

I n the Cours Mirabeau at Aix may be seen astatue ofhim by David of Angers , but i t i s worthless asa bit of portraiture ; which is i ndefensible

,as several

genu ine p ortraits of the king exist ; one i s in thecathedral along with his second wife, i n the trip tychof the Burning Bush ; another in the MS . of Guarin i ’stranslation of S trabo

,i n the l ibrary at A lbi ; a third ,

in private hands , has been engraved in the Count de

Quatrebarb e’

s edition of King Réné’

s works .Réné has go t into such a backwater of history that

probably not many Engl ish folk know more about himthan that he was the father of the unfortunate Margaret,Queen of Henry VI . , sketched for us by Shakespearein an unfavourable l ight, and more of him than whatScott is pleased to say in A nne of Geierstein. Butno man has so taken hold of Provencal affection as hasRéné.

64 THE R I V IERA

If to the present day,” says a localhistorian, the thought

of this’

King makes a Provengal heart beat withtender love,it is due to this : that never was there a sovereign who showed

greater consideration for his peop le, was more sparing of theirblood and money, more desirous of p romotingtheir happ iness .Simp le and modest in all his tastes, enjoying less revenue thanmost of the Seigneurs who were his vassals; he was to be seenevery winter sunninghimself in the midst of his subjects, whoidolisedhim .

”

Réné,Duke of Anj ou and Maine, was pri soner

,

to theDuke of Burgundy

,when news reached h im that the in

heritances of his brother and of Queen Joanna I I . of theTwo Sicilie s, had fal len to him . Married to I sabel la

,

daughter of Charles of L orraine, he had claimed thatd uchy on the death of his father-in- law

,and in Oppos i

t ion to Anthony,Count of Vaudemont, nephew of

Charles . The Count of Vaudemont was supported byPhi l ip

,Duke of Burgundy. Réné was defeated and

taken prisoner,along with his son and al l his great

nob lesf Conducted to the castle of Blacon , near S al ines,he was there retained in captivity ti l l he could pay anenormous ransom . I t was, accord ingly, whilst a prisonerthat he heard the news of the death of his brother

,

L ou is I I I . , and of his adoption by the queen , and then

of the death of, Joanna, i n 1435.

As he was unable to take possess ion of his kingdom

ofthe Two Sicilies, he was obl iged to transfer his authori ty to his wife

,the Duchess I sabel la, a woman of rare

prudence and of mascul ine couragef The absence of

Réné from his k ingdom of Naples gave rise to the format ion of fact ions one favoured A lphonso of A ragon , aclaimant ; another took the s ide of Pope Eugen ius IVwho wanted to annex the Sicilies to the papal states ;

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66 THE R I V IERA

wil l ,” said the woman

,and she hastened to betray to a

parti san of A lphonso the secret of a subterranean passage into the town ; i n fact, the old aqueduct throughwhich , n ine centuries before, Bel isariu s had penetratedinto Naples . The Spaniards poured into the town , andRéné had but just time to escape to a vessel in the bay.

He ret i red to Provence,and there h is wife

,I sabel la

,

’

d ied i n 1453. He had her body ,moVed to Angers , and

erected over her a noble tomb,near one he had set u p

some years before to his old nurse. Re’

né fought againstthe Engl i sh bes ide the French King, and was in thebattle of Crecy. I n 1448 his daughter Margaret hadbeen married to Henry VI .Shakespeare and the chron iclers have combined to

blacken the character of this unfortunate woman . Shei s represented in repu ls ive colours

,as unfem in ine

,re

vengeful , loose i n her morals ; and even her energyand fo rtitude are d istorted into unnatural ferocity andobduracy. But we cannot trust the pictu re painted of

her. The Engl ish people resented the marriage with animpecun ious woman

,and the cession of the duchy of

Maine to the French as the price for her hand . Theywere gal led and writhing at the humi l iation of theEngl ish arms, i n a series of victories won by the aid ofthe Maid ofOrleans. She was , moreover, placed in theunnatu ral position of having to supply, by her force ofcharacter

,the feebleness of her husband

’

s ru le. Thesoft

,femin ine natu re of Henry’s d isposit ion threwhers by

contras t into undue prom inence. She had penetrationto d iscover

,what was h idden from Henry’s eyes

,that

the throne was surrounded by false friends and secretenem ies . Considering the incapacity of the King, it i s

unj ust to j udge her harshly, i f she strove withall her

THE PROCESS ION A T A Ix 67

powers to save the crown imperil led by his feebleness .The s ituation in which she was placed compelled her todo that which is the worst thing a woman can do, tounsex herself

,and that

,not l ike the Maid of Orleans, i n

consequence of a D ivine impulse, but from motives ofpol icy. I nevitably much has been attributed to her forwhich she was not rightful ly responsible. I t couldhardly be otherwise than that much in her way of lifewas inconsistent with her female character ; a womancannot play a man ’s part in the work of the worldwithout detriment to her own nature ; but this wasforced on her by the helpl’ess imbeci l ity of her husband

,

and she was compel led by the stress of circumstancesto take the first part in a struggle to save the crown , andto hand it on to her son.

A fter the death of I sabel la , Réné married Jeanne deL aval

,with whom he l ived happily. He loved to walk

about the country in a broad -brimmed straw hat,and

to chat with the peasants ; or else to amuse himself withi l l um inating MSS . and composing poems .L ou is X I . was his nephew

,a crafty and cold-blooded

king, and he took advantage of the inabi lity of Réné tooffer effective resistance to d ispossess him of his duchyof Anj ou . Thenceforth Réné

,who had spent his time

between Anjou and Provence,was constrained to res ide

only in the latter.One great source of del ight to him cons isted in

scheming showy publ ic processions and tournaments,and in hunting up rel ics of saints. He instituted afestival at Aix to represent the triumph of Christian ityover Paganism , that was to be repeated annual ly. A t

the head of the process ion appeared the gods , with their

proper attributes— Jove with his’

eagle and thunderbolts ,

68 THE R I V IERA

Pluto surrounded by devi ls,D iana with her crescent

,

Venus in the scantiest of garments . A round theirchariot trotted an assembly of lep egs covered with soresand vested in rags . Then came a body of pipers

,

dancers,and soldiers . Next appeared the Queen of

S heba on a vis it to Solomon ; Moses with the Tablesof the L aw

,and with gi l t horns ; round him a rabble

of Jews hooting and cutt ing deri s ive antics,and

dancing about a golden calf. Next came apostles andevangel ists , al l with their appropriate symbols, andJudas

,against whose head the apostles del ivered

whacks,Peter with his keys

,Andrew with h is cross

,

James with his staff.Then came a gigantic figure to represent S . Christopher

,

fol lowed by mil itary engaged in sham fight. Next theAbbot of Youth

,the L ord of M isrule

,the Twelfth

N ight King, and other al legorical figures preced ing theBlessed S acrament , carried under a da

’

Is. Final ly theprocession closed with a figure of Death mowing toright and left with his scythe. Each group of thisi nterm inable process ion executed a sort of dramatic

game designed by King Réné— the game of the stars ,of the devi ls

,and so on ; and the whole process ion

moved,not on ly to the braying of horns , the beating of

drums,and the shri l l notes of the wry-necked fi fe

,but

also to the d iscordant clashing of al l the church bells of

Aix .

I t was a matter of keen competit ion annual ly to ge ta part to play in the show. One man on a certainoccas ion was highly wrath and offended because he wasnot set down to the part of Devi l . “ My father was adevi l before me

,my grandfather was a devil , why should

not I be one as wel l ? ” Possibly King Re’

né devised the

DEATH OF RENE 69

entertainment to draw people away from their celebration of the Feast of Fools , a feast that existed in ful lvigour unti l i t was final ly put down by the provincialcounci l of Aix in 1 585, after Réné had vainlyendeavoured to get rid of it. This astounding pieceof ribaldry and profan ity was everywhere

,and every

effort made by the Church to be rid of it had me t withstubborn resistance from the people . I n Dijon i t wasabol ished by the Parl iament in 1 552 , as the ecclesiasticalauthorities were powerless to end it.The Feast of Fools was the carrying on of the old

pagan Saturnal ia, when On December 1 7 th for a week al lconditions were turned topsy-tu rvey. The slaves tookplaces at table and the masters served ; and the streetswere ful l of riot and revelry. I t was customary at Aixand A rles

,and in almost every great church in France,

from the New Year to the Epiphany,for the people to

proceed to the election of a Bishop of Fools . Theelection took place am idst buffoonery and the mostindecent farces . The newly-elected was then made toofficiate pontifically at the high altar

,whilst clerks

carried mitre and crozier,thei r faces daubed over with

paint or soot. S ome men dressed as women,women were

d isgu ised as men , and danced in the choir. Songs ofthe grossest nature were sung ; and in place of i ncenseold leather and al l kinds of fi lth were burnt ; sausagesand black puddings were eaten on the altar. The lasttraces of these horrible profan it ies d id not d isappear ti l lthe midd le of the eighteenth century.

B ut to return to King Réné. He died at the age ofseventy-two in July, 1480,

and accord ing to his wil l , hisnephew, Charles ofMaine, took possession of the countyof Provence under the title of Charles IV. But he soon

79 THE. R I V IERA

d ied,and then Lou i s X I . annexed Provence

,as he had

A njou,to the French crown.

Re’

né had des ired to be bu ried at Angers beside hisfi rs t wife

,and Jeanne , his second , tried to carry out his

wishes ; but the people of A ix would not hear of thebody being removed from their midst. The estates met,and sent a petit ion to Jeanne to renoimce the idea

‘

of

conveying the remains away from' Pro vence. However

,

she gained the consent of the archbishop to theremoval ; but she was obl iged to wait a whole yearbefore the suspic ions and watchfulness of the people ofA ix would al low her to execute her pu rpose. Then Shesent a covered waggon , with intent, as she gave out, toremove some of her goods from the castle at Aix ; andduring the n ight the body of the old k ing was whiskedaway ; the horses started at a gal lop , and the corpseconveyed beyond the frontiers of the county before thepeople were aware of the theft. A noble monumentwas erected at Angers to contain the mortal remains ofRéné. Unhappily at the French Revolution this

,as wel l

as the monument and statue of I sabel la, his fi rst wife,

and even that of h is dear old nurse, were smashed to

fragments by the rabble .

The cathedral is an interesting church : the south aisleconsti tuted the Early Romanesque church . To this wasadded the present nave in 1 2 85, with apse. On thesouth S ide of the church is a charming Early Romanesque C l oister, and on the north is a baptistry of thes ixth centu ry

,but somewhat al tered in 1 577 , contain ing

eight col umns of pol ished gran i te and marble proceeding from some demol ished temple. There are two

obj ects i n the church l ikely more special ly to attractattention ; the triptych of the Burn ing Bush , where

THE MUSEUM 7 1

King Réné and Jeanne de Laval are repre sented kneeling before the Bush that burns with fire and is not

consumed,and in which

,by a curious anachron ism , i s

represented the Virgin and Child . This triptych waspainted

,i t i s thought, by Van der Meire, a d iscip le of

Van Eyck . The other object is the magnificent seriesof tapestries in the choi r

,representing the L ife of Our

L ord , which came from S . Pau l ’s Cathedral , L ondon ,whence they were ejected at the time of the Commonwealth . The date of these tapestries Is 1 5 1 1 , and theyare attributed to Quentin Matsys of A ntwerp.

The museum of Aix richly deserves a vis it . I t con~

tains bas- rel iefs dug Up at Entremont , where was the oldL igurian stronghold , taken by Sex tius Calvinus ; andthese are the very earl iest bits of Gaul ish scu lpture thathave been found anywhere. There are al so numerousrel ics ofthe class ic Aix that have been unearthed in thetown , and Christian sarcophagi scu lptured with Bibl icalscenes .In the town l ibrary is King Réné

’

s Book of Hours,

i l luminated by his own hand .

CHAPTER V

TOULON

Coudop and Faron—Telo Martius—Dye works—Toulon made an arsenal

and dockyard— Galley slaves—The Bagne— The Red Caps— Travauxforces—Story ofCognard

— Siege of 1 793— Carteaux and Napoleon

Massacre- Expedition to Egypt.

HE precipices of l imestone, Coudon, feet high ,

and Faron,

feet, standing as guard ians overToulon

,crowned with gl eaming ci rcles of white fortifica

t ions,effectual ly protect the great arsenal and dockyards

of this place of fi rst importance to France. Condonlooks out over the eruu towards the Gulf of Hyeres

,

and wou ld effectual ly prevent attack thence ; and Faron ,stand ing immediately above the harbour of Toulon

,

cou ld s ink any fleet that ventured within range. I ndeed

,t i l l these two fortresses should be s i lenced

,Toulon

would be impregnable .

Faron (Phurus) , as its name impl ies , was formerly thebeacon height to the R ude. During the n ight a fi rewas flam ing on i ts summ i t

,during the day moistened

straw was burnt to send up a column of smoke. Thislanguage of s ignals commun icated to the population ofthe coast the appearance on the hori zon of vessel s sus

p ected of piratical intent. The beacon of Faron communicated with o ther beacons on heights within sight ofone another. The keeping up of these s ignals on points

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74 THE R IV IERA

I n ancient t imes— i ndeed,from the class ic period— the

arduous and exhausting work of rowing vessel s was

given to s laves and prisoners . No free man wouldendure the toi l and hardship of the gal leys . War

vessel s,merchantmen

,and pleasu re yachts were al ike

propel led by this unfortunate class of men . JacquesCoeur, the banker, had fou r coquettish gal leys with

gi lded prows and oars , propel led by prisoners h ired forhi s service. Each of these vessel s had at the bows

”

asacred image, wreathed with flowers

,of the saint whose

name it bore. There was La Madeleine, S . Jacques8 . Michel , and S . Den is . Charles VI I . seized them al l

,

he d id not leave a s ingle boat to the fugit ive merchant,whose on ly fault was that he had made the King of

France his debtor to the amount of a hundred thousandcrowns .I n a large gal ley as many as six men were requ i red

for each oar. Sweat ing close together, for hour afterhour

,not s itt ing , but leaping on the bench , in order to

throw their whole weight on the oar, they were kept totheir task with l ittle relaxation .

Think of six men,chained to a bench, naked as when they

were born ; one foot on the stretcher, and the other on thebenchin front, holdingan immensely heavy oar ( 1 5 feet long),bending forward to the stern witharms at full reachto clearthe backs of the rowers in front, who bend likewise ; and then,havinggot forward, shoving up the oar’s end, to let the bladecatchthe water, then throwing their bodies back on to the

groaning bench. A galley was thus propelled sometimes forten, twelve, or even twenty hours, without a moment

’s rest.The boatswain in such a stress puts a p iece of bread steepedin wine into the wretched rower’s mouthto stop fainting, andthen the captain shouts the order to redouble the lash . If

GALLEY S LAVES 75

a slave fal ls exhausted upon his oar (which often happens),he is flogged till he is taken for dead, and then p itched un

ceremoniously into the sea.

” 1

Jean Marteille , of Bergerac , who was himself on the

gal leys about the year 1 70 1 , thus described the l ife :

Those who have not seen a galley at sea, especially inchasing or being chased, cannot well conceive the shock sucha spectacle must give to a heart capable of the least tinctureof compassion . To behold ranks and files of halfnaked, halfstarved, half tanned, meagre wretches, chained to a p lank,from whichthey do not removefor months together (commonlyhalf a year), urged on even beyond human endurance, withcruel and repeated blows on their bare flesh, to the incessanttoil at the most laborious ofall exercises, whichoften happensin a furious chase,— was indeed a horrifying spectacle.

To be condemned to the gal leys was not necessari ly al ife sentence. A t first al l such as were sent thitherwere branded on the shoulder with GAL ,

but afterwards this was changed to T .E. for T ravaux forcés ,or T .P. i f for l i fe ; and each class wore a specialcoloured cap. Great was the ind ignation felt at theRevolution

,on ascertain ing that the red cap of L iberty

was what was worn by one class of gaol -birds . A

member of the Convention rose and demanded that thishonourable badge should be removed from their heads ;and amidst thunders of applause

,the motion was carried .

A special commi ssioner was despatched to Toulon to

order the abol ition of the red cap from the Bagne .

Accord ingly al l the caps were confiscated and burnt .But the National Convention had made no provisionfor replacing the red cap with one of another colour

,

1 STANLEY POOLE, The Barbary Pirates.

76 THE R IV IERA

consequently the prisoners had for some time to go

bare-headed . I n 1 544 the A rchbishop of Bourgessent a couple of priests and two other clerks to thecaptain of the gal leys at Toulon , and requ ired him toput them to hard labour. But this was regarded by theParl iament as an in fringement of i ts rights , and thecaptain was o rdered to send the

"

c lerics back tothe archbishop.

Men were condemned to the gal leys for every sortofcr ime and fau lt. Many a wretched Huguenot toi ledat the oar. O ften enough a nobleman labou red beside aman belonging to the dregs of the people. Haudriquer

de Elancourt, i n love with a lady ofgood rank,to flatter

her made a false entry in her ped igree, so as toenhance her nobi l i ty. There ensued an outcry amongheralds

,and for this De Blancourt was sent to the

gal leys .As naval construction and science improved , oars

were no longer employed , and sai l s took thei r places ;the gal leys were moored at Tou lon , Brest and Roquefort

,and acquired the name ofBagnes . The derivation

is uncertain . By some it i s supposed to be derivedfrom the Provengal bag

-nu

,which s ignifies

“ moored,

by others from the prisons of the sl aves near the Bagno ,or baths ofthe seragl io at Constantinople.

L ou is XVI . abol ished tortu re , which had fi l led theBagne with cripples . Thenceforth the Bagne ceasedto be an infirmary of martyrs

,and became a work

shop of vigorous labourers . The Revol ut ion of 1 789

tore up al l the old codes,but i t maintained the gal leys,

only i t changed the name of Galerien to T ravauxforcés a temps , ou a perpetuité. No one formerlyseemed to be sensible to the horrible brutal ity of the

THE BAGNE 77

gal leys . When Madame de Grignan wro te an accountof a visit to one of them to her friend Mme de Sevigne,that lady repl ied “ she would much l ike to see this sortof Hel l

,

” with “ the men groan ing day and night underthe weight of their chains .

”

Furthenbach, i n his A rchitectura navalis (Ulm,

says that the convict in a gal ley received 2 8 ounces of

biscu it per week, and a spoonful of a mess of rice andvegetables . The fu l l complement of a large gal leyconsisted of 2 70 rowers, with captain , chaplain , doctor,boatswain

,master

,and ten to fi fteen gentlemen

adventurers , friends of the captain , sharing his mess ,and berthed i n the poop ; also about eighteen marinesand ten warders

,a carpenter

,cook

,cooper, and smi th ,

&c .,and from fifty to s ixty sold iers ; so that the whole

equipage of a gal ley must have reached a total of fourhundred men.

The Bagne has seen strange inmates . Perhaps no

story of a foreat i s more extraordinary than that of

Cognard, better known as the Count of Pontis deSainte-Helene. This man, who seemed to have beenborn to command , was well bu il t, tal l , and singularlyhandsome

,w ith a keen eye and a lofty carriage . This

fellow managed to escape from the Bagne, and madehis way into S pain , where he formed an acquaintancewith the noble fami ly of Pontis de S ainte-Helene, andby some means, never ful ly c leared up

,blotted the

whole family out of l ife and secured al l thei r papers,

and thenceforth passed himself offas a Pontis . Underthis name he became a sub- l ieutenant in the Spanisharmy

,then rose to be captain of a squadron

,and after

the attack on Montevideo, gained the rank of l ieutenant

colonel . L ater he formed a foreign legion , and took

78 THE R I V IERA

part in the pol itical struggles in the Pen insula . He

affected the most rigid probity in al l matters ofmil itaryaccounts , and denounced two of the officers who hadbeen gu i l ty of embezzlement. But these men

,in thei r

own defence,accused Pontis ofmalversion

,and General

Wimpfen had him arrested . He escaped,but was ,

caught , and transferred to Palma , among the Frenchprisoners. I n the bay was lying a Spanish

‘

brig.

Cognard proposed to his fel low prisoners to attemptto captu re i t. The eoup de nzain succeeded

,and after

having taken the brig, they sai led for A lgiers , wherethey sold the vessel , and went to Malaga , then inFrench occupation . Count Pontis was given a squadronunder the Duk e of Dalmatia ; and when the Frencharmy retreated he was accorded a battal ion in the100thregiment ofthe l ine.A t the siege of Toulouse , the Count of Pontis, at the

head of a flying column , took an Engl ish battery. At

Waterloo he was wounded .

I n 1 8 1 5 the Count was made Knight ofSaint L ou is ,and given a battal ion in the legion of the Seine, andin s ix months was promoted to be l ieutenant- colonel .One day the Due de Berri asked him i f he were one of

the noble Span ish House of S te . Helene . Pard ieu, mon

prince,answered Cognard, j e su is noble, e t de la V iel le

roche encore .

”

Cognard, covered with decorations,i n his rich

un iform,at the head of his regiment, at reviews

might wel l have pushed his fortune further, but foran unfortunate meeting. One day, as commander ofhis corps, he pres ided , near the column of the PlaceVendome, at a mil itary degradation when an old Toulon

convict , who had been released, observed him , eyed

THE S IEGE 79

him attentively,and

,convinced that he recognised an

old comrade of the Bagne, in a fi t of spleen and envy,denounced him as such .

The general Despinois sent for Pontis , and findingthat there was much that was equ ivocal on h is part, despatched him

,under the charge of four gens d

’armes ,to the Abbaye. There he obtained from the officer permiss ion to change his l inen , was al lowed to return to hisquarters

,possessed himsel f of a pair of pistols

,and

escap ed . Six months after, the Count Pontis de SainteHelene, l ieutenant- colonel of the legion of the S eine,Knight of S . L ouis and of the legion of honou r, wasrecaptured

,convicted of appearing under a false name,

suspected of the murder of the Pontis family,recogn ised

as an evaded convict,and was sent to end hi s days in

the Bagne at Brest.I n October, 1 793, a disorderly mob of sold iers and

revolut ionary cut- throats,under the command of the

painter Carteaux,after having dyed thei r hands in the

blood of s ix thousand of their countrymen , whom theyhad massacred at Lyons

,invested Toulon

,which had

shut i ts gates against the revolutionary army, and hadthrown open its port to the Engl i sh. The town wascrowded with refugees from Marsei l les , and its bastionswere occupied by a m ixed mul t itude of defenders

,

Sardinians, Spaniards , French, and Engl ish , un ited innothing save in common hatred of the monsters whowere embrued in blood .

The invest ing army was d ivided into two corps,

separated by the Faron . On the west was O l l iou les,where Carteaux had establ ished his headquarters . Thecommander-in-chief, ignorant of the first principles ofmi l itary science, and al lowing his wife to draw oUt the

80 THE R I V IERA

o rders for the day,and sign them as Femme Carteaux ,

had planted his batteries where they cou ld do no inj uryto the Engl ish fleet. The s iege had begun in Septembe r ;i t dragged on through October. There was organ isationneither in the host nor in the commissariat. The armywas composed partly of troops detached from that ofI taly , mainly of volunteers set at libef

'

ty by the tak ingof Lyons

,and a horde of Marsei l l ais ruffIans

,animated

by hopes ofmurder and plunder.I n the m idst of this confusion Bonaparte arrived

before Toulon , and appearing before Carteaux had theaudacity to point out to him the rud imentary errors hehad committed . Carteaux was furious

,but his claws

were cl ipped by the Comm i ss ioners , who, satisfied ofhis incompetence, d ism i ssed him, and Dugommier, anold officer, was placed in command . On November 2 5tha counci l of war was held

,and the Comm i ss ioners placed

the command of the arti l lery in the hands of Bonaparte.

I n compl iance with his instructions,the whole force

of the besiegers was d irected against the Engl ish re

doubt Mulgrave, now fort Caire,on the A igu i l lette.

An attempt to carry it by assau l t was made on themorn ing of December 1 7 th . The troops of the Convemt ion were driven back , and Dugommier, who headed theattempt

, gave up al l for lost. But fresh troops wererapid ly brought up in support, another onslaught wasattempted

,and succeeded in overpowering the Spanish

soldiers,to whom a port ion of the l ine was entrusted ;

whereupon the assai lants broke in , turned the flank of

the Engl ish detachment, and cut down three hundred

of them .

The possess ion of this fort rendered the further main

tenance of the exterior defences of Toulon imp ractic

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8 2 THE R I V IERA

offered . Next day the tr00ps ofthe Convention enteredthe town . During the ensu ing days

,some hundreds of

the inhabitants who had not escaped were swept togetherin to an open place

,and without any form of trial were

shot.Barras and Freron issued a proclamation that all who

considered themselves to be good c itizens were requ iredto assemble in the Champ-de-Mars under pain of death.

Three thousand responded to the order. Fréron wason horseback, surrounded by the troops , cannon , andJacobins . Turn ing to these latter, he said ,

“ Go intothe crowd and pick out whom you wil l , and range themalong that wal l .

”

The Jacobins went in and did as desi red,according

to thei r caprice. Then,at a signal from Fréron, the

guns were discharged , and the unhappy crowd swayedsome fel l, others , against the wal l , dropped . Fréron

shouted,L e t those who are not dead stand up. Such

as had been wounded only rose, when another vol leysent them out of l ife.

Salicettiwrote exult ingly :“ The town is on fi re

,and

offers a h ideous spectacle most of the inhabitants haveescaped. Those who remain wil l serve to appease themanes of our brave bro thers who fought with suchvalor.” Fouche, Napoleo n ’s future Head of Pol ice

,

wrote “ Tears of joy stream over my cheeks and floodmy soul . We have but one way in which to celebrateou r victory. We have this even ing sent 2 1 3 rebel sunder the fire of our l ightn ing.

” “We must gu i l lot ine

o thers , said Barras,to save ourselves from being

gu i l lot ined .

”Executions went on for several days , and

numbers of the hapless remnant perished . But eventhis d id not satisfy the Convention . On the motion of

EXPED IT ION To EGYPT 83

Barrere, i t was decreed that the name of Toulon shouldbe blotted out

,and a commi ss ion

,consist ing of Barras

,

Fréron,and the younger Robespierre , was ordered to

continue the slaughter. S uch as were able bought thei rl ives . One old merchant of eighty-four offered al l h i sweal th save eight hundred l ivres but the revolutionaryjudge, coveting the whole, sent him under the

'

guillotine ,

and confiscated his enti re property.

Whilst the butchery was in progress, a grand dinnerwas given in celebration of the taking of the town .

Generals,rep resentatives of the people, sans-culottes ,

galley-slaves,

“ the only respectable persons in thetown

,as the commi ss ioners said

,sat down together,

the commissioners occupying a separate table.Toulon again gradual ly refi l l ed with people, and under

the D i rectory i t was constituted the fi rst m i l i tary portofFrance. From Toulon Bonaparte organ ised his ex

pedition to Egypt.

CHAPTER VI

HYERES

The olive - The orange—The sumac—The erau of the Capean—Contrastb etween the old town and the new— Shelter or no shelter— The familyof Fos— The peninsula of Giens— Saltings—Ancient value of salt

Pomponiana— S . Pierre a

’

Al-Manar—A false alarm- The LeagueRaz atsandCarcists—Castle held by the Carcists— Surrender—Churchesof S . Paul and S . Louis -The Iles de Hyeres—The reformatory inIle du L evant—Mutiny -Horril le scenes— Sentences.

T wil l be at Hyeres, probably, that the vis itor to theR iviera fi rs t real ises that he has come am idst trop i

cal vegetation , for here he wil l first see palms,agaves ,

and aloes in ful l l uxuriance. Moreover,the ol ive

,which

has been seen,but not i n its fu l l l uxuriance

,reaches i ts

finest development on the red soi l north of the branchl ine

,where i t parts from the main l ine at La Paul ine.

The ol ive i s without question the most important treeon this coast ; i t prevai ls, and gives its colou r to thec ountry everywhere, except in the Montagnes des Mauresand the Esterel . This i s a most difficu lt tree for an artistto deal with

,as it forms no masses of fol iage ; the smal l

pointed leaves,dul l green above, pale below,

are so d isposed that the fol iage can be represented only by aseries of penci l scratches . The trunk has a tendency tospl i t into three or fou r parts in the ground . The vital ityof the ol ive i s remarkable . A fter a centu ry , i t may beafter more

,the core of the trunk decays

,and the tree

84

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OL IVE TREE S

THE OL IVE 85

parts into sections,and l ives on through the ever-V i tal

bark . The bark curls about the decayed sections, andforms a fresh tree. Consequently, in place of one hugeancient ol ive

,one finds three or four younger trees, but al l

with a look on them as if they were the chi ldren of oldage , growing out of the same root. And when thissecond generation dies , the vital ity of the root remainsunimpaired i t throws up new shoots

,and thus the l i fe

of the tree,l ike that of an ancient fam i ly

,i s indefin itely

prolonged . The healthy ol ive tree , wel l fed on old ragsand fi l th of every description , to which it is exceed inglypartial , i s very beautifu l ; but the beauty of the ol ivetree comes out in winter and early spring ; when thedeciduous trees are in leaf and bri l l iant green , i t looksdul l and dowdy. The ol ive flowers from Ap ri l to June,and the fru it requires about six months to reach maturity. The harvest

,accordingly , i s i n winter. The berry

becomes black final ly,and fal ls from the tree in Decem

ber and January. The oi l from the ful ly matured ol ivesis more abundant

,but i s not so good in qual ity as that

expressed from the berry whil st sti l l green . The ol ives ,when gathered , are taken to the m i l l s , which are rude ,p icturesque bu ild ings , planted in the ravines to commandwater power ; but occasional ly the crushing i s done byhorses turn ing the m i l l s . The ol ives are crushed bystone rol lers the pulp is put into baskets and saturatedwith hot water

,and subjected to great p ressure . The

j uice then squeezed out i s carried into vats,where the

oi l floats on the surface and is skimmed off.The wood of the ol ive is used for fuel

,and for boxes

and other ornaments that are hand -painted .

The tree requ ires good nou rishment if it i s to be wel lcropped , and it is most p artial to a dressing of o ld

86 THE R I V IERA

ro tten rags .‘All the fi l thy and decayed scraps of

clothing cast by the Neapol itan peasantry are carriedin bo ats to the coast and are eagerly bo ught as manu re.

A t Hyeres, moreover, we come on the o range and thelemon . The orange was original ly impo rted from Chinai n to Spain , and thence passed to I taly and the R iviera .

O ranges are said to l ive four or five hundred years ,S . Domin ic planted one in the garde n at S ta. Sabina, atRome, i n 1 200, t hat sti l l flourishes . Hale and fru itbearing also i s that at Fondi

,planted by Thomas

A qu inas in 1 2 78 . Nevertheless,i t i s certain that o ld

orange- trees have d isappeared from Hyeres . Whetherthey were k i l led by the severe winter of 1864, or whetherby a disease

,i s doubtful . The trees one sees now are

none of them ancient,and do no t attain a height above

n ine feet . The name orange comes from the Sanskri t,and the Portuguese , who introduced the orange to

Europe,borrowed the name from the H indus . I n 1 5 16

Francis I . was present during a naval sham fight at Marsei l les

,where oranges were used as projecti les . O ranges

had been grown sufficiently long at Hyeres to haveattained a great s ize i n the s ixteenth century, for whenthere , Charles IX his brother the Duke of Anjou , andthe King of Navarre, by stretching their hands, togetherhooped round the trunk of one tree that boreoranges . Thereupon was cut in the bark , Caroli regis

anzp lexu gloriar.

” But there are no such orange-trees asthat now at Hyeres . Probably that was of a more hardynature and of inferior qual ity to the orange- tree now

grown . I n fact,the present strain of oranges cul tivated

i s a late importation,not earl ier than about 1 848 . When

a horticu l turi st of Marsei l les imported i t, i t was nextbrought to Bord ighera ; from thence i t passed to San

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88 THE R I V IERA

A t Hyeres the Maure tte rises as a natural screen,facing

the sun,banking out the north wind , with the erau of the

Gapeau on one s ide,and the bed of the Gap eau on the

other ; and of course, those who go to the S outh forshelter would natu ral ly

,one wou ld suppose

,keep

the screen between themselves and the Mistral . Butnot so . S ettlers have thought theyhad

'

done al l that wasrequired when they came to Hyeres

,and have bu il t

thei r v i l las , and extended the town to the north-west,

precisely where there i s no shelter at al l,and there is ful l

exposure to the blasts from the north . One great d isadvantage to Hyeres i s the d istance at which i t standsfrom the sea.

Hyeres belonged original ly to the fami ly de F05,

which had the marqu isate of Marsei l les , an immensefief Contain ing fifty towns , Marsei l les , S ol l ies , Toulon ,Hyeres, L e Ciotat, Cass is , A ubagne, etc. But in 1 2 57 i twas ceded to Charles of A nj ou

,Count of Provence .

The importance of Hyeres was due to i ts salt pans .The pen insula of Giens was undoubted ly at one t ime ani sland

,One ' of the group that forms a chain , of which

Porquerol les and l’Ile du L evant are the principal . Butthe currents round the coast threw Up shingle beds andsealed i t to the coast

,forming an extens ive natu ral lake

of sal t water between the two barriers , but with a gap i nthat to the east through which the sea water cou ld flow.

I n this shal low lagoon sal t was produced . The entrancecou ld be closed

,and the sun dried up the water in t he

basin,leaving the salt behind . A t present, with ou r

ready communication by rail , the importance and valueof salt i n ancient times can hardly be real ised . I n thecentre of Gau l and of France i n olden days men

ravened for salt . I t was to them what swee tstuff i s

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90 THE : R IV IERA

bel l for the fun of the thing, and when the vassalsarrived

,l aughed at them for al lowing themselves to be

fooled from thei r beds . This prank cost the conventdear, for shortly after a Moorish corsai r put i nto thebay, and the convent was attacked . The alarm bel lwas sounded i n

’

vain ; no one answered the summons,and before morn ing the house was sacked , and the nunshad been carried away

,to be sold‘

as‘slaves in A frica .

A cu rious cond ition of affai rs existed at Hyeresdu ring the troubles of the League.

The Count de Retz,Grand Marshal of France, was

Governor of Provence,and the Count de Carces was i ts

G rand S énéchal . The j ealousy of these two men gavebirth to a deplorable rivalry

,which placed each at the

head of a d ifferent party . De Retz supported theHuguenots , and the Cathol ic party took Carces as i tsheadpiece ; and the factions cal led themselves, or werecalled

,Raz ats and Carcists long after the men whose

names they had adopted had d isappeared from thescene .

The rancour of each party d id not abate,even when

plague devastated the province. Then confusion grewworse confounded when the L eague was formed , due tothe death of the Duke of Anjou , brother of Henry I I I . ,which made Henry of Navarre

,a Calvin ist, hei r to the

throne. The most extreme Carcists , alarmed at theprospect of the succession fal l ing to a Huguenot,formed the plan of inviting the Duke of Savoy to takeProvence. The anarchy in the country became in

tolerable,and large bodies of peasants and mechanics

armed and fel l on the forces of Carcists and Raz atsind ifferently

,rou ted and butchered them.

I n 1 586 the town of Hyeres was staunch in i ts

THE CARC ISTS 9 1

adherence to the king,but the castle that commanded

it was occupied by the forces of the Baron de Méolhon,

who was also Governor of the Port ofMarseil les , andhe was a Carcist, and incl ined to favour the claims of

the Duke of Savoy. He had p laced a Captain Merlein the castle

,with secret instructions to hold i t for the

duke.

M . de la Valette was Governor of Provence , and hesaw himsel f obl iged to make an attempt to

‘

take thecastle . A messenger between De Méolhon and theDuke of S avoy had been

“taken with in h is possess ion

treasonable correspondence , betraying the plans of theLeaguers .

Hyeres readi ly opened its gates to De la Valette,i n

November,1 588 , and he summoned Merle to surrender

the castle, but met with a prompt refusal . Then heattemp ted to take i t by escalading, but in vain . I tstood too high ; i ts garri son were too alert . He couldnot even prevent wel l-wishers of the Carcists fromsmuggl ing provis ions into the fortress .At last, despairing of success , the Governor of Pro

vence withdrew and having failed to take the castle byforce , had recourse to other means. He bought the aidof a M . de Cal las

,a Leaguer, related to two of the

officers of the garrison, and induced him to enter thefortress and bribe and cajole its defenders into su rrendering. Merle, however, was not to be seduced .

He must be got rid of by other means . A cannon wasdragged upstairs to an upper window of a house thatcommanded Merle ’s d in ing apartment . I t was knownat what hour he supped

,and in what part of the room

he sat . A s ignal was to be given by a traitor whenMerle took his place at the table

,with his covers before

92 THE R IV IERA

him. The appointed s ignal was made : the cannonthundered , and a bal l crashed in through the windowand knocked supper and wine bottles and everythingabout in wreckage. But happily something had oc

curred to the captain as he took his seat,and he had

left the room . When he returned,there was no more a

dumpl ing on the table,but an exploded shel l .

De Cal las was sent again into the castle to proposeterms of surrender. Merle would sti l l have held out ,but the garrison had been bought, and they refused tocontinue the defence. Terms of capitu lation were agreedon , whereby Merle, for surrendering, was to be indemnified with ten thousand crowns. This extraord inaryagreement was s igned on A ugust 3 1 5 t, 1 589, after thecast le had held ou t against the k ing for ten months .The chu rches of Hyeres are not without interest.

That of S . Paul , on the height, has immense sub struc

tu res . I t i s a cu rious j umble of parts and styles. I tdates back to the eleventh or twelfth centu ry, but thevaul ting is later

,and later windows were added . The

great square tower is Romanesque.

The other church , outside the wal ls , that of S . L ou is ,i s in much better preservation . I t was the chapel of theKnights of the Temple, and is of the twelfth century,very severe

,without scu lptured capital s to the pi l lars ,

and without clerestory. I t is a somewhat gloomychurch

,deriving nearly al l i ts l ight from the west

window. The preceptory of the Templars i s withinthe old town , and is now the Hotel de Vil le.

The I les de Hyeres are a detached portion of thecrystal l ine rocks of the Montagnes des Maures . Thei rcl imatic condition is very d ifferent from that of Hyeres ,as they are exposed to the sweep of every wind . They

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94 THE R IV IERA 2

The youn’

g ruffians su cceeded inbeating in the Upperpanels

,but those below res isted al l thei r efforts . They

cl imbed over the sol id portion and carried forth bacon ,sausages, sugar, brandy , and what they could lay theirhands on

,and when wel l l aden returned over the door to

make way for o thers . Meantime Coudurier had chosentwo l ieutenants

,Ferrendon and A l lard

,and

,i n counci l

with them and some o thers of the ' wo rst m iscreants,had

resolved on putting to death several of their comradeswhom they regarded as milksops and spies . ByCoudurier

’

s o rders only those were al lowed to enter thestore -house whose names he cal led forth

,and thus he

sent fourteen of the lads he regarded as sneaks into themagazine. Then

'

he emptied a bottle ofpetroleum oversome pape r by the door, and stationed Ferrendon andA l lard to prevent the egress of the lads who had beensent in . Ferrendon by his o rders set the petroleumon fi re

,and he provided A l lard with a long kn ife

with which to drive back the victims in to the fi rewhen endeavouring to escape, and to prevent any at

tempt at rescue.

“ Ferrendon,”said he to a comrade

,

L ecocq ,i s game for any mischief ; and A l lard is hal f

d runk .

” I n a few minutes the sol e entrance to the storehouse was a sheet of flame. One boy , Garibald i , whowas within

,at once dashed through the fi re and began to

sc ramble over the broken door.A l lard stabbed him in the shoulder and breast , and

then flunghim down into the sheet of flaming petroleum.

The scene now became inexpressibly horrible. Theboys

,seeing the fi re rapid ly spread ing, go t to the

windows,put their arms between the bars

,and screamed

for help.

’

They pu l led at the gratings with desperation ,but

‘

were unable to dis lodge it. Two boys who ran for

HORR IBLE SCENES 95

ward to attempt to extingu ish the fire were driven back bythe knife of Ferrendon. Some of the young criminals d idfeel qualms

,and a desi re to free their comrades , b ut

were overawed by Coudurier. The l ighthouse man , whohad come to the spot

, go t a blanket, dipped it in water,and ran to the door

,but was seized by the boys , taken

off his legs, and flung into a pit twenty feet deep, andbroke his ankle in the fal l

,so that he was unable to sti r.

A boy who snatched at the blanket and tried to extendit to some of those in a window,

was also flung into thepit ; but he happily came offbetter, and ran away. Thepoor wretches within

,bla

°

ck against a background of'

fi re,shrieked and wept ; thei r clothes, their hair, caught

fire,and one by one they fel l back into the flames behind .

The frightfu l end oftheir comrades sobered the drunken,

mutinous crew ; and some strove to drown their fearsfor the consequences by drinking themselves into totalunconsciousness .Next day the mut ineers scattered over the is land

,

doing what m i schief they pleased . No t t i l l October 4thd id help arrive

,when the fire was extinguished , the

i sland was occupied by soldiery,and the youths were

taken to prison on the mainland,and the ringleaders

brought to trial .I t may be wondered where was Fauvau

,the D i rector

,

al l this while . He and the chaplain had go t into a boatand escaped to shore. What had become of the warderswe are not told

,but they seem also to have effected

their escape.On January 3rd, 1 867 , s ixteen of the young crimi nal s

were tried at Dragu ignan . Ferrendon was a boy l itt leover thirteen

,a lad with a soft expressive face. A l lard

was aged thirteen , with a hangdog, evi l look . One of the

96 THE R I V IERA

accused was a lad from Paris,refined in appearance and

with large, beautifu l eyes . One was aged twenty.

Coudurier, Fouché , L aurent , and Bérond were foundguil ty by the ju ry

,not of murder

,but of hom ic ide

,with

extenuating c ircumstances , and were sentenced to l i felong hard labour. A l lard was condemned to be sent toa reformatory for ten years. Ferrendonwas d ischargedas innocent ! Guenau was also declared innocent.Where, then , am I to sleep to-night he asked whereupon the aud ience made up a handsome sum for him .

This was not the end of the matter. I n prison one

of these culprits murdered another of his fel low boyconvicts because he thought the latter

‘ had given evidence against him . I t i s hard to say which came outworst i n this affai r

,the D i rector

,Chaplain

,and warders

,

or the j ury at Dragu ignan .

A l though M . de Pourtales was wi l l ing to renew theexperiment

,the establ ishment was not restored

,and of

the reformatory only the ru ins remain .

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CHAPTER V I I

LES MONTAGNES DES MAURES

Exceptional character of the Maures—Warm quarters in the Southernnooks of the chain—A future for‘ them— The cork tree—The carob

The mulberry— The Saracens take possession of the chain—KingHughmakes terms with them : his history—Maroz ia- S . Maj olus—William ofProvence—Le Grand Fraxinet—Grimaud- S . Tropez

The Bravade .

HUNCH of gran ite heaved up , and carrying on

its back the beds of schist and gneiss that hadoverlain it , stands up between the Gapeau and the

A rgens . I ts nearest geological relations, not connexions

,are the Cevennes and Corsica , al l pertain ing to the

same period of upheaval . On ly to the east does the

gran ite assert itsel f above the overlying formations .This mass ofmountain i s of no great elevation , neverrising above feet

,and extending over a superficie s

of acres.

“ It forms by itself,” says Elisee Reclus, an orographic system sharp ly limited. Its mass ofgranite, gneiss, and schist isseparated from the surrounding limestone mountains by profound andwide valleys, those ofthe Aille, the Argens, and theGapeau . In fact, it constitutes an ensemble as distinct fromthe rest of Provence as if it were an island separated from thecontinent.

H

98 THE R I V IERA

The fo rms of the mountains are rounded, and there

are no bold crags but i t i s scooped out i nto val leys thatdescend rapidly to the sea and to l ittle bays and thesescoopings afford shelter from winter winds and cold

,

facing the sun , and-wal led in from every blast.

I know a farm kitchen where a pair of curved setteesare drawn about the fi re

,and the gap between the

settees i s c losed in the even ing by a green baize curtain .

The fam i ly s its on a winter n ight in this cosy enclosure,the men with their pipes and j ugs of c ider, the womenkn itting and sewing ; al l chattering, s inging, laughing.

Now the southern face of the Maures i s prec iselysuch a snuggery formed by Natu re. The mountainscurve about to focus the sun ’s rays and the cork woods

,

evergreen , k il l al l glare. Here the date trees ripen theirfru it ; here the icy blasts do no t shrivel up the eucalyptus, and sm i te down the oranges.The pity is, there are as yet no wel l-establ ished winter

resorts at L avandou , Caval iere , and , above al l , Cavalaire— places more adapted to del icate lungs than Hyeres

,

exposed to the currents of wind over the Crau ; thanthat blow-hole S . Raphael , planted between the cheeksof the Maures and l’E stérel than Cannes , where thewinds come down from the snows over the plains of the

S iagne ; than N i ce, with the Pail lon on one s ide and theVar on the other.But for the Engl ish vis itor in these suntraps three

things are lacking— a l awn - tenn is ground , a lendingl ibrary

,and an Engl i sh chapel . I nevitably the Bay of

Cavalai re wil l,in the future

,become a great refuge for

i nval ids. But that this may become so , above al l , whati s needed is a bunch of thorns appl ied to the tai l of theengine that runs the train along the l ine from Hyeres

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1 00 THE R I V IERA

look ofthe leaves . When this ind icat ion shows “ that itIs burrowing, the branches affected are cut off abovethe poin t to which i t has bored , and are burnt .At one time it was supposed that the cork tree requ ired

no cu ltu re. But of late years great pains have beentaken with it, and it readi ly responds to them . A selfsown tree growing up in the midst '

of heather andc istus i s not l ikely to attain to a great s ize. I t is cu tdown to the root ; then , when i t sends up fresh shoots,one i s kept, the rest removed . This operation has tobe repeated , and the ground abo ut the root to be wel ldressed . A fter s ix years the tree wi l l take care of

i tsel f.The great danger, above al l , to which the cork woods

are Cxposed , i s fi re ; whole tracts have been devastatedin this way

,and the proprietors ru ined . Consequently

,

precautions are insisted on. Smokers are special lywarned not to throw about their unextingu ished matches .The carob tree (Ceratonia siligua) i s another that i s

met with,and which attracts the attention of the visi to r

from the north . The pods,cal led locust beans

,are

supposed to have been those on which S . John theBaptist fed when in the wi lderness. These beans growin shape l ike a horn

,which has given its name to the

tree . They contain a sweet nutrit ious pu lp , enclosingyel low seeds . The fru it i s used extens ively for feedingan imals , and is eaten by children, who, indeed , wil l eatanything. When the phyl loxera was ravaging the V i neyards of France

,a company started a d isti l lery at Cette

to manufacture cognac out of the fru it of the carob.

But i t fai led,as the brandy so made retained a pecu l iar

and d isagreeable flavour that cou ld not be got out of i t.The carob i s an evergreen , vigorous and beauti fu l .

THE MULBERRY 1 0 1

I t grows in most stony,arid spots , where is hardly a

part icle of soi l . Such a tree cannot l ive on ly on whatit derives from its roots it must l ive in a great measu reby its leaves

,as

,indeed

, to a large extent , do al l ever

greens . The scanty soi l wi l l in many places not feedtrees that drop thei r leaves in autumn

,and supply them

afresh every spring. Such renewal exacts from thepoor soi l more than i t can furn ish . Consequently ,Nature spreads evergreens over the rocky surfaces thatcontain but sl ight nutritive elements . Thus i t i s thatin Provence the vegetation. i s nearly al l of an evergreencharacter.Beside the manufacture of corks

,the inhabitants of

the Maures breed s i lkworms, and so grow mulberrytrees for thei r sustenance.

King Réné i s c red ited with having i ntroduced themulberry into Provence from S ici ly ; but it i s moreprobable that it i s ind igenous. What Réné did was tosuggest its uti l isation for the feeding of the s i lkworm .

This branch of production was greatly encouraged byHenry IV.

,but wars and intestine troubles

,the ravaging

of the country by rival factions , by the Savoyards andby the French

,caused the cultivation of the s i lkworm to

decl ine. Of late years , however, i t has been on theincrease

,and the number of mulberry trees planted has

accordingly also . greatly increased . The Chain desMaures takes its name from the Saracens, who occupiedit , and made it their stronghold , whence they descendedto burn and destroy.

By the infusion of new elements,forms of govern

ment, new rel igious ideas , concept ions of ind ividual andpol it ical rights, the old world of Gau l was in process oftransformation ; i t was gradual ly organising i tsel f on a

10 2 THE‘

R IV IERA

broad basis , when in the midst of this society in re

construct ion appeared a new element , quite unknown ,and on whose advent no reckon ing had been made.I t came from the coasts of A frica

,and was Mohammedan .

S ome cal led these people Hagarenes , as descendants ofHagar, but they themselves regarded their descen t asfrom S arah , and so cal led themselves S aracens .Thei r fi rst appearance on the Provencal coast was in

730, when they sacked N i ce and other towns , and theinhabitants fled to the mountains to save their l ives.They harassed the l ittoral incessantly

,not in large

forces at a t ime,attempting a conquest, but arriving in

a few vessels , unexpectedly, to pi l lage , murder, and carryaway captives . A s soon as ever the forces of the Countsarrived

,they escaped to thei r ships and fled

,to recom

mence their devastations at another point.I n 846 the Saracens carried ru in and desolation over

the whole plain of Aix ,and made themselves masters

of al l vantage points along the coast. The populationsunk in despair

,no longer offered effective resi stance,

and the nobles,quarrel l ing among themselves , invoked

the aid of the infidels against thei r neighbours ofwhomthey were jealous . About this time it happened thata Moorish pirate was wrecked in the bay of S . T ropez .He soon saw the strategic value of the chain of graniteand schist mountains

,and retu rn ing to A frica col lected

a large band , crossed the sea,and took possession of

the whole mountainous block . A t this t ime, moreover,Mussulman Spain was a prey to a bloody schism . Thedynasty of the Abassides was succeeded by that of the

Ommiades, and the viciss itudes of parties continual lyaugmented the number of those who were conqueredand proscribed . These, flying from Spain , sought refuge

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104 THE R I V IERA

Ano ther pi l laging excurs ion crossed the greatS . Bernard to attack the monastery of S .

,Maurice ,

where the A rchbishop of Embrun,and some of the

Provengal prelates had stored the treasures of theirchurches . A thi rd party from the Frax ine t, aided bya fleet from A frica

,had taken Genoa

,and put al l the in

habitants to the edge of the sword .

Hugh , Count of Provence and King of I taly, wasappealed to for aid . Having no naval force to Opposeto that of the Moors

,he sol icited help from the Empe ror

of the East,and a fleet from Constantinople entered the

Gul f of S . T ropez, and burnt that of the S aracens .Hugh , i n the meantime, i nvaded the mountains andreached the Frax ine t.But whilst thus engaged , he heard that Berengarius,

Marquess of Ivrea,had taken advantage of his absence

to fal l on his possess ions i n I taly. Hugh thereupon dism issed the Greek fleet

,and made an al l i ance with the

S aracens, to whom he committed the passages of theA lps .About thi s same Hugh of Provence, one of the

b iggest scoundrels who ever breathed , i t wi l l be as wel lto say something.

H ugh was the son of Theobald , Count of Provence ,and of Bertha

,daughter of L othai r, King of Burgundy.

The House of Provence had acqu ired great possess ionsduring the reign of L ou is I I I K ing of ArleS

'

and

Emperor (d . the uncle of Hugh . But Hugh wasnot content . He raised pretensions to the k ingdom ofI taly

,then held by Rudol f, King of Transj uran Bur

gundy. Hugh was seconded by his hal f-brothers GIIidoand L ambert, Dukes of Tuscany and Spoleto , and byhis s ister

,Ermengarde, widow ofthe Marquess of Ivrea.

K ING HUGH 105

Pope John X Lambert , A rchbishop of Milan , andnearly al l the Lombard '

nob le s,supported his claim, and

he d isembarked at Pisa in 926 , and was crowned atPavia . The crafty Hugh , ful ly estimating the influenceof the clergy in the pol it ics of I taly, affected the mostprofound zeal for rel igion , and flattered the

_

clergy.

John X .,i n Rome, was in a difficu lt posit ion . Rome at

the time was ruled by the infamous‘

Maro z ia. John hadbeen the favourite of Maro z ia

’

s equal ly infamous motherTheodora. He had

,i n fact

,been her paramour

,and it

was she who had advanced him from one bishopric toanother

,and had final ly placed the tiara on his head .

On the death of his m i stress , John found himself en

gaged in a fierce contest fo r the mastery of Rome withMarozia and her lover

,or husband

,the Marquess

A lberic, by whom she had a son of the same name, andanother

,by Pope S ergius it was rumou red , whom she

afterwards elevated to the Papacy.

John managed to drive the Marquess out of Rome,and he was assass inated in 92 5 ; whereupon Maroziamarried Gu ido , Duke of Tuscany, hal f-brother of Hughof Provence. The Pope hoped , notwithstand ing thisconnexion

,by offering the prize of the Imperial crown ,

to secure Hugh’s protection against his domestic tyrants .

But he was d isappointed . Marozia seized on the Pope,

the former lover of her mother. His brother Peterwas ki l led be fore his face

,and John was thrown into

prison , where, some months after, he died , either ofangu ish o r

, as was rumoured ,smothered with a pil low.

Marozia d id not venture at once to place her son onthe Papal throne . A L eo VI . was Pop e for somemonths , and a S tephen VI I . for two years and onemonth. The son was sti l l a mere boy

,too young for

1 06 THE R I V IERA

the shameless woman to advance him to the Chai r ofS . Peter. But on the death of S tephen , Maroziaagain ruled alone in Rome ; Guido, her husband , wasdead , and she made her son Pope under the t itle ofJohn X I .But Marozia was not satisfied with having been the

wife,first of a Marquess

,then of a Duke ; the m istress

of Pope S ergiu s , the mother of Pope John X I . Shesent to offer her hand to Hugh of Provence

, the newKing of I taly. Hugh was not scrupulou s in his amours ,but there was an impediment in the way. She hadbeen the wife of his half-brother. But the youthfulPope

,the son of the wretched woman

,

-was ready witha d ispensation

,and the marriage was celebrated in

Rome.Hugh set to work now to strike down

,one after

another,the nobles who had supported him

,and had

shaken down the throne of Rudol f,acting with un

exampled perfidy and ingratitude. He d id not evenspare his hal f-brother

,L ambert , who had succeeded

Guido in the Duchy of Tuscany,for he plucked out his

eyes .His high-handed and merciless conduct alarmed those

who had not yet suffered . One day, A lberic , the son ofMarozia

,was commanded by King Hugh to serve him

with water,at supper

,so as to wash his hands . Per

form ing his office awkward ly o r reluctantly,the youth

Spi l led the water,whereupon the King struck him i n the

face. A lberic was furious ; he went forth and placedhimsel f at the head of a conspiracy against his stepfather . The bel ls of Rome rang out

,the people rushed

into the streets,besieged the Castle of S . Angelo, and

took i t. Hugh had to fly and form a court at Pavia.

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1 08 THE R I V I ERA

and appo in ted Maj olus to succeed him . But the exabbot one day

,whil st i n the infirmary, fancied a bit of

cheese, and screamed for i t to be brought to him . No

one paid attention to his angry and repeated yel ls , as themonks at the t ime were themselves d in ing. Aymardwasso offended at th is neglect that he deposed Maj olus andresumed the headship of the establ ishment . But on hisdeath Maj olus was elected in his room . A fter a vis it toRome, Maj olus was on his way back when a band ofSaracen marauders took him . S eeing one of the Moorsabout to cleave the head of one of his companions whomthey cons idered not l ikely to fetch a ransom

,Maj olus

sprang forward and interposed his arm . He saved thel i fe of his comrade

,but long suffered from the wound .

The S aracens forced the monks of Cluny to pay theheavy ransom of a thou sand pounds of s i lver for thei rabbotMajolu s had now suffered twice from these scourges of

the South , and he preached a crusade against them i n 97 2 .

I t took him ten years,however

,to rouse the Pro

vengals to undertake the expu ls ion of the Moors,so

cowed and despairing had they become . He was ablyassisted by one Bavo

,son of Adelfried, a noble of

Nuglerium (Noyers , near who had taken avow to avenge the honour of his wife, who had beenoutraged by a S aracen . This man swore to exterminate every Moor who came within reach of his arm .

Eventual ly he d ied at Voghera , on a pilgrimage toRome to give thanks fo r victory over the Moors .

Wi l l iam ,Count of Provence

,at the instigation of

Maj olus, took up arms against the Moors , and hemmedthem into the chain of mountains that sti l l bears theirname . The campaign lasted through several years , ti l l

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1 10“ THE R IV IERA

for a bel l tower. That of Grimaud is in better cond it ion , but i s a ru in. The place was taken from theGrimald is in 1 378 by L ou is I . of A njou and Provence,as the Grimald i of that t ime had sided in the war ofsuccess ion with Charles of Durazzo , and he gave i t toChristopher Adorno. I t passed from one to another

,

and was raised into a marqu isate in 1 627 but the castlewas d ismantled in virtue of a decree in 1655.

The town is curiou s,bu il t on a con ical hi l l dom i nated

by the castle. The streets are narrow . The church i srude

,Early Romanesque

,and very curious .

Undoubtedly the sea original ly ran up to Cogol in andGrimaud . Now al l the bas in out ofwhich they rise i s aflat al l uvial plain in tersected by dykes

,and growing,

near La Foux splend id umbrel la pines .S . T ropez , charming l i tt le town as it i s , the best centre

for excurs ions in the Chai n ofthe Maures,i s nevertheless

not a place that can ever become a winter residence,as i t

looks to the north and i s lashed by the terrible Mistral .But i t has this advantage den ied to the other towns onthe coast, that , having the sun at the back , one looksfrom it upon the sea in al l i ts intens ity ofcolour withoutbeing dazzled .

S . Tropez has been supposed to occupy the s ite of aPhoen ic ian -Greek town

, Heraclea Caccabaria, but this isimprobable. This place was almost certainly in thesweet sun -bathed Bay of Cavalai re. There were

,indeed ,

two ancient towns on the Gulf,Alcone and A thenopolis ;

and certainly Grimaud was a town in Roman times , forthere are remains of the aqueduct that supp l ied it withwater.The Gulf was cal led S inus Samb racitanus, and , as

al ready stated,at one t ime reached inland to the feet of

S . TROPEZ 1 1 1

Grimaud . And at Cogol in a Greek funerary monumenthas be en found .

S . Tropez was completely ru ined by the S aracenswhen they occupied the Maures . A fter they weredriven out i t was rebu ilt

,but was again destroyed in

the War of S uccession between the Duke of Anjouand Charles of Durazzo. I t was rebu i l t under KingR éné and colon ised by some Genoese fami l ies , whofortified i t and undertook to defend it . I n 1 592 i t

gallan tly resisted the Duke of Savoy, and forced himto retire. In 1 652 S . Tropez was a prey to civi lwar between the S abreurs

3

and the Canifets , who hadsucceeded to the feud of the Carcists and Raz ats. The

S abreurs were those representing m i l itary force,the

Canife ts represented the e’

e/zee ins,and were n icknamed

after the eanif used by the latter to mend their pens . Ishal l have more to say about this when we come toDraguignan . The Sabreurs go t possession of the castle,but the Due de Mercoeur sent a regiment to assist thecitizens, and the S abreurs were dislodged .

The town is d ivided into two parts— the old town andthe new— and the former teems with picturesque featuresthat attract the artist. The women of S . Tropez arenoted for their good looks , due to the infusion of I tal ianblood . S . Tropez is the scene of a pecu l iar fest ival

,La

B ravade, taking place on the 1 6th, 1 7th, and 1 8thMay

every year, in commemoration of the defence of the townagainst the Duke of Savoy in 1637 combined with thepatronal feast of S . Tropez on May 1 7th. Every Mondayin Easter week a Captain of the Town is electedfor the ensuing year, and he has the regu lation of thefestival . This i s in itiated on May Day, or the nextS unday and Thursday , by the

“ Promenade des Joies,

1 1 2 THE R IV IERA

when members of a company carrying hoops adornedwith many- colou red fluttering ribbons , promenade thetown , led by drummers . On May 16th

,at 3 p m , the

Captain , with h is attendant offi cers , marches to theMairie, where he i s presented with pike and bannerby the Mayor

,to a d ischarge of fi rearms

,which thence

forth go on bangIng day and n ight ti l l the evening ofthe ensu ing day. The guns are . discharged at anypasser-by, but only at the legs— and are

,of cou rse

,

charged with powder alone. The clergy, led by thecross

,escorted by the beadles

,arrive from the church

and bless the guns a nd other weapons . Then theBravadeurs fol low to the church

,where they receive

the bust of S . Tropez , and the process ion startscapering,

dancing,swaying i n and out of the streets,

through the town , fifes screaming, drums rol l ing, gunsexplod ing. The process ion moves to the Port

,where

the Captain and al l his company salu te the sea . Whereupon any gunboats , torpedo boats , etc . ,

that happen tobe anchored in the harbour

,retu rn the salute by a general

thunder of guns .But the 1 7th— the day of S . T ropez— i s that of greatest

festivity. I t opens with a Mass of the M ousquetaires at

8 am ,after which fol lows a general procession . I n the

afternoon the Bravade marches to the Mairie and thepikes and banner are su rrendered . On May 1 8th

, at

8 am ,i s a Mass at the chapel of S . Anne ; around the

chapel are ranged stal l s ofsel lers of black nougat and a

sort of cake known by the name of fougasette. Thenensues a de

’

fenner given by the Captain to his ass istantsand to the town authorit ies ; and in the evening thefestival concludes with a general farandol on the L ioes.

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CHAPTER V I I I

5 . RAPHAEL AND FREJUS

Rapid Rise- An exposed spot, unsuitab le as a winter resort—Napoleon

here embarks for Elba : his journey from Fontaineb leau—The via

Aurelia—Frejus— Choking up of the harb our- Roman remains—The

Cathedral—Agricola—Monument s— S . Hilary— Sieyes ; sans phrases

—Désauguier—The Caveau—His Carnival Lay—Some ofhis jokes.

FEW years ago S . Raphael was a fishing vil lageabout an old Templar church. There were i n i t

but a Couple of hundred poor folk. Then some specu

lators cast their eyes on the place,and calculating, not

unreasonably, on the lack of intel l igence ofvis itors fromthe North , resolved on makingit into a winter sanatorium .

They bought out the fisher fam i l ies,and set to work to

bu i ld hotels and lay out esplanades and gardens.Now any person with a grain ofsense in his head has

but to look at the map to see that S . Raphael i s the verylast place on the coast suitable as a winter resort . I tl ies between two great humps of mountains , the Chainedes Maures and the E sterel . I t has before i t the evershal lowing Gulf of Fréj us, that stretches back intoal luvial deposit and pestiferous morasses— open to thenorth and down this bare

,unwholesome plain roars and

rages the Mistral . I t has blown the sea out of the Bayto the d istance of two miles . It i s enough , entering theears , to drive the frai l lungs out of the breast betwixtthe teeth .

I

1 14 THE R IV IERA

The A rgens, which has flowed from west to east, receiving the drainage of the Montagnes des Maures ,receives also the Parturby and the Endre from the l imestone, and then tu rns about and runs almost due south,but with an incl ine to the east. I t forms a wide basin

,

once a long arm of sea , but now fi l led up with deposit,

and with festering lagoons sp rinkled' over i ts surface ;

the two great mountain chains from east and westcontract , and fo rce the winds that come down from thenorth

,and the snows of the A lps

,to concentrate thei r

mal ice on S . Raphael . I f you love a draught, then s itbefore a roaring fi re

,with an open window behind you .

I f you desire a draught on a sti l l larger scale, go to

S . Raphael .Perhaps the speculators who i nvented this S tation

H ivernale thought that it was necessary to add somethingmore

,i n order to attract patients to the place

,and Vales

cure was establ ished among pine woods . The aromat icscent of the terebin th , its sanatory properties, so highlyestimated

,so experimental ly efficacious in pulmonary

d isorders,etc . ,

etc . Valescure is j ust as certainly exposed to winds as i s S . Raphael . A S to pines andeucalyptus

,they can be had elsewhere

,i n combination

with shelter.However, let me quote M . Leuthéric, who has a good

word to say for S . Raphael

Few regions ofProvence present conditions of landscapeand climate more seductive. The l ittle town of SaintRaphael is p laced beyond the zone of infection from the

marshes of Frejus . It stretches gracefully along the shore at

the foot of the savage chain'

of the Esterel . On all sides

pointed rocks of red porphyry p ierce the sombre foliage ofcork trees and pines . The coast is fringed by sandbanks,

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NAPOLEON 1 1 5

extendingalongunder cliffs covered withilexes. A l ittle wayout to sea, two tawny

~coloured rocks, like fantastic beasts atrest, close the harbour, and receive over their longbacks thefoam of the breakers the first is couched some cable lengthsfrom the shore, the second five hundred metres beyond it.They bear the names ofthe Land and the Sea Lions.” 1 ”

I t was here that Napoleon entered the vessel deportInghim to E lba, attended by the Commissioners of theA l l ied Powers . He had left Fontaineb leau

'

upon April20th, 1 8 14 . A s he got south he was made to perceivethat his popularity

,i f he ever had any in Provence , was

gone. Near Valence he encountered A ugereau ,whom

he had created Duke of Castigl ione, and who was anunderbred

,coarse fellow. Napoleon and his Marshal

met on the 24th. Napoleon took off his hat,but

Augereau , with vulgar insolence, kept his on .

“Whereare you going?

” asked the fal len Emperor,

“ to Court ? ’

-“I care for the Bourbons as l ittle as I do for you

,

answered Augereau“ al l I care for i s my coun try .

Upon this,Napoleon turned his back on him

,and re

entered the carriage. Augereau would not even thenremove his hat and b ow, but sal uted his former masterwith a contemptuous wave of the hand .

A t Valence, Napoleon saw, for the fi rst t ime,French

soldiers wearing the white cockade. A t Orange the airrang with cries of Vine lo R oy J

On arrival at Orgon the popu l ace yel led ,“ Down with

the Corsican ! Death to the tyran t ! Vine le R oy !”

Portraits of Bonaparte were burnt be fore his eyes ; aneffigy of himself was fluttered before the carriagewindow, with the breast piercedj and dripping with

1 LaPror/enee M aritime, 1897, p. 356.

1 1 6 THE R I V IERA

blood . A crowd of furious women screamed,

“Whathave you done wi th our chi ldren ? ”

The Commissionerswere obl iged to stand about the carriage to protecthim ; and it was with d ifficu l ty that a way could bemade . through the mob for the carriages to proceed .

A t S aint Cannat the crowd broke the.

windows of hiscoach . Then

,for h is protection

,he as

’

sumed a cap anda greatcoat of Austrian un iform , and in stead of pursuinghis way in the coach , entered a cabriolet. The carriagesd id not overtake the Emperor t i l l they reached La

Calade. The escort found him stand ing by the fi re i nthe k itchen of the inn , talk ing with the hostess . Shehad asked him whether the tyrant was soon to passthat way.

“ Ah,s i r

,she said

,

“ i t i s al l nonsense toassert that we are rid of him . I have always said thatwe never shal l be su re of being qu it of h im ti l l he isthrown to the bottom of a wel l and it is then fi l led i nwith stones . I on ly wish that wel l were m ine in theyard . Why, the D i rectory sent h im to Egypt to ge t ridof him

,and he returned .

”Here the woman

,having

fin ished sk imm ing her pot, looked up , and perceivedthat al l the party was stand ing uncovered , except theperson whom she was address ing. She was confounded

,

and her embarrassment amused the ex-Emperor andd ispel led his annoyance.

The sous -p refet ofAix closed the gates of the town toprevent the people from i ssu ing forth . At a chateaunear Napoleon me t his s ister Pau l ine , who was i l l , orpretended to be i l l , and was staying there. When heentered to embrace her , she started back.

“ Oh,Napoleon

,why this un iform ? ”

“ Paul ine,

” repl ied he,

“ do you wish that I were

dead

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1 1 8 THE R I V IERA

passage d isembarked at Porto Ferrajo,the capital of

E lba , on the 4thof May.

The great Roman road , the Via Aurel ia, left thecapital of the world by the Jan icu lan Gate

,made for

Pisa,L ucca , fol lowed the coast the whole way, passed

above where is now Monaco,over a spu r of the Mari

t ime A l ps by N i ce, A ntibes, Cannes , came to a l i ttl etown in the lap of the Gu lf O f Frej us

,and thence

tu rned abruptly away from the coast and made d irectfor Aix and A rles. Thence roads rad iated : one

,lead ing

up the left bank of the Rhone,took tr00ps and com

merce to the Rhine. Thence also the Domitian Way

conveyed both by Narbonne into Spain .

This bay was the last harbou r on the Mediterraneanfor troops that were to march into the heart of Gaul toBritain

,or to the Rhine . H itherto the road

,hugging

the coast,offered innumerable fac il i ties for provis ion ing

sold iery and supplying them with mun it ions of war.But from the Bay of Freju s this advantage ceased .

J u l iu s Caesar saw the great strategica l importance of theharbour

,and he resolved to make of i t an important

haven,a naval stat ion

,and an emporium for stores .

Marsei l les he d id no t choose. I t was a commercia ltown

,a Greek town

,and he was out of temper with i t

for having s ided with Pompey against him . A ccord inglyhe settled here some veterans of his favourite TenthL egion , to become the nucleus of a colony. But Caesaroverlooked what was a most important point— his portForum Julii was planted at the mouth of the A rgens,and the river brought down a vast amount of fluviatiledeposit

,mud and sand

,and inevitably in a few years

would s il t u p his port . I t had a further d isadvantage

it was a fever trap . To the sou th the town had a wide

FREJ US 1 1 9

tract of fetid marsh, breeding malaria and‘

mosquitoes.

He would have done wel l to have swal lowed his resen tment against Marsei l les and to have taken the Opin ionof so observant a man as Vitruvius , o r even to havestud ied the cond itions himself more closely. Now al lthe harbou r is buried in silt

,and grass grows where

gal leys floated .

’

The lap of the bay , which was once atFrej us

,begins now at S . Raphael and extends to Cap

S . Aigous. I n time S . Raphael also wil l be inland , andthe L ion de Mer wi l l become, l ike its fel low, a L ionde Terre.

Michel de l’

HOpital, who l ived in the s ixteenthcentury

,in one of his letters wrote

We arrived at Frej us, which is nothing more now but a

poor little town . Here are grand ruins of an ancient theatre,foundered arcades, baths, aqueduct, and scattered remains ofquays and basins. The port has disappeared under sand, andis now nothingbut a field and a beach.

I f S . Raphael be devoid of antiquities and ofhistory,at a little d istance is Fréj us, that has both in abundance.The ru ins are many, but not beauti fu l ; everything

was bu il t in’

a hurry,‘

and badly bu ilt . The aqueductwas no sooner completed than it gave way and had tobe patched up . The triumphal arch on the old quaysis a shabby affai r. The amphitheatre i s half out out

of the natural rock . There was plenty of gran ite andporphyry access ible, but the bui lders

‘

d id not troublethemselves to obtain large and sol id blocks ; they buil tof brick and smal l stones

,without sk i l l and impatient ly.

The work was probably executed by corvées of labou rersimpressed from the country round . There were two

enormous citadel s ; one to the no rth, the other to the.

1 20 THE. R IV IERA

so uth of the po rt.‘

The latter,the Butte S . Anto ine,

was , however, main ly a huge accumulat ion of storechambers, magazines for whatever was needed for thesoldiers

,and attached to i t was the l ighthouse . Beyond ,

some way on the ancient mole Is the most perfect monument of Roman times extant In Frej us . I t goes by thename of La L antern but it was no t a lighthouse at al l ,but the lodge of a harbou r-master, who gave d i rectionswith a flag to vessel s how to enter the harbour andavoid the shoals .The rai lway now runs close to i t across the ancient

bas in,the port made by Agrippa. To the north of this

,

where stands now the chapel of S . Roch,’

was the Portof Caesar. Poplars now stand where was formerly a

forest of masts .The amphitheatre i s cu t through its entire length by

a road . The old wal l of the town reached to ' i t,incl uded '

i t,and then drew back to where is now the rai lway

station . The remains of the theatre are to the northof the modern town , and those ofthe baths to the southwest ; they may be reached by taking a road in thatd irection from the Butte S . Antoine.

A lthough Jul iu s Caesar has the cred it of having madethe place and cal led i t after his own name

,i t i s certainly

more than a guess that there was a Gracco -Phoeniciansettlement here before that time, occupying the bunchof high ground ris ing above the marshes of the A rgens.I ndeed

,monuments have been found that imply as

much,though later i n date than the making of the

place into a naval station by Cmsar. One of these isb i- l ingual— L atin and Greek . I t begi n s in L atin

“ To Caius Vilius Ligur, this is dedicated by his motherMaxima.

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1 2 2 THE R I V IERA

be. Agricola was born in A .D . 37 and died in 93. His l i fei s of special interest to us

,as he spent so much of his

t ime in Britain,carried the Roman arms into S cotland ,

and sent an expedit ion round the coast and establ ishedthe fact that Britain was an island . He was movedto thi s by the fol lowing ci rcumstance. A body of

Germans had been levied on the Rhine and were sento ver to serve under Agricola . But after havingmurdereda centu rion and some soldiers who were dri l l ing them ,

they seized on three l ight vessel s and compel led thecaptain s to go on board with them. One of these,however

,escaped to shore

,whereupon these Germans

murdered the other two , put to sea, and sailed awaywithout one of them having any acquaintance with thesea and the management of ships . They were carriednorth by winds and waves

,and landed occasional ly to

obtain water and food and to plunder the natives . Theycircumnavigated the north of S cotland , and - then werecarried out to sea and suffered terrible privations . Theywere driven by starvat ion to k i l l and eat the weakestof their number and to drink thei r blood. A t lengththey were wrecked on the North German coast

,where

they were sei zed on as pirates,and sold as slaves to the

Romans on the left bank of the Rhine. Here theytalked and yarned of thei r adventures , and the newsreached Agricola ; so b e fi tted out his exped ition andproved the fact that Britain actual ly was an island .

F inal ly,owing to his success , he fel l under suspic ion to

the j ealous tyrant Dom it ian and was recal led to Rome,where he d ied ; whether poisoned by the Emperor ord ied a natural death is uncertain . Tacitus himsel f does

not venture to pass an opin ion .

Another great native of Frej us was S . H i lary of

S . H I LARY 1 2 3

Arles . He was born of noble parents in the year 40 1 ,and was a relat ive of Honoratus, abbo t of Lerins.

Honoratus left his retirement to seek his kinsmanH i lary and draw him to embrace the monasti c l i fe butal l h is persuasion was at first in vain .

“ What floodsof tears ,

” says H i lary,

“ d id this true friend shed to

soften my hard heart ! How often d id he embrace mewith the most tender and compass ionate affect ion , towring from me a resolve that I would cons ider thesalvat ion of my sou l . Yet I resisted .

”

“ Wel l , then , said Honoratus,“ I wil l obtain from God

what you refuse.

”

And he left him . Three days laterH i lary had changed his m ind , and went to L erins toplace himsel f under the d iscipl ine of Honoratus. I n

42 8 S . H i l ary was elected A rchbishop of A rles . He

was a man of a very impetuous and wilfu l character, and

go t sad ly embroi led with Pope L eo the Great, whomhe defied on behalf of the l iberties of the Gal l icanChurch

,speaking out to him

,as hi s contempo rary

biographer asserts ,“ words that no layman would dare

to utter, no ecclesiastic wou ld endure to hear.”He had

after this to escape from Rome,where assassination was

to be feared— by knife or poison— and hurried back toA rles . Le o retorted by writing a letter to the bishopsof the province of Vienne denouncing the audacity ofHilary in daring to set himself up against his authority,and releasing them from al l al legiance to the see ofA rles .S oon after this a fresh quarrel broke out . A bisho p

Proj ectus comp lained that when he was i l l , Hilary hadrushed into his d iocese without inqu iring whether hewere yet dead , and

’

without cal l ing on the clergy andpeople to elect a su ccessor

,had consecrated another

1 2 4 THE -R IV IERA

bishop in h is room . This was the best possible medicinefor Proj ectus. He tumbled o ut of bed

,pul led on his

clothes , and in a scream ing rage wrote a letter to thePope . Thereupon L eo wrote Sharply to H i lary to bidhim mind his own business in future

,and not meddle

ou t of his d iocese. And then the Pope wrung from thefeeble Emperor Valentin ian an ed ict denouncing thecontumacy of H i lary against the

"apostol i c throne,and

requ iringhim and al l the bishops of Gaul to submit asdoci le ch ild ren to the bishop ofthe E ternal City. H i laryd ied in 449, comparatively young.

S ieyes was born at Frej us in 1 748 , and was trained fororders at S . Sulpice . I n 1 788 he was sent as memberfor the clerical order to the Provincial A ssembly atO rléans . He saw what was the trend of Opin ion andwhat must inevitably happen

,and he wrote his trenchant

pamphlets,Essai sur les P rivile

‘

ges and Qu’

est-ee gue le

tiers-état,1 789, that acted. as fireb rands through France.

He was elected by Paris as representative at the GeneralA ssembly that met at Versai l les . There

,l ook ing at the

nobles in thei r sumptuous atti re,the curés in their

sontannes,and the representat ives of the Thi rd Estate

in thei r humble cloth,he said

,

“One people —We are

three nat ions,

” and he i t was who,on J uly 20th

,on

entering the A ssembly, exclaimed ,“ I t i s t ime now to

cu t the cords,

” and sent an imperious message to theo ther two Houses to enter and s it along with the

T iers Etat .He strove hard against the abol ition of ti the withou t

some compensation to the clergy, but was overborne .

The general feel ing was against this . A s he saw thatanarchy was resu l ting from the conduct of the A ssemblyhe withdrew from taking any further active part ; but

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1 2 6 THE R I V IERA

S ieyes,said ,

“ What i s wanting for France is a head,

tapping his own brow,

“ and a sword,

” l ook ing signifi

cantly at Napoleon . He was to learn very soon thathead and sword would go together.The 1 8 th Brumaire was contrived by S ieyes ; but

he was in his coach,outs ide S . Cloud , when Napoleon

entered to dissolve the Counci l of the ’ Five Hundred .

I n face of the tumul t within Bonaparte lost his confidence and was thrust forth by the Deputies. He foundS ieyes in his carriage, to which were harnessed s ix horses,ready to start at fu l l gal lop should the eoup fai l . Do

they seek to outlaw you ? asked S ieyes . “ Man,o ut

law them yourself.” Napoleon recovered himsel f andre -entered the hal l at the head of his sold iery. Thes ituat ion was saved .

Bonaparte, S ieyes , and Roger-Ducros were nom inated

Consu ls . The Revolution had abd icated into the handsof the mil itary. That same even ing S ieyes said to hisi ntimates

,We have given ourselves a master.

”

A fterwards , Bonaparte, as fi rst Consu l,took him into

the Senate , and granted to him the domains of Crosne.

L ater, i t was said

“ Bonaparte aSieyes a fait present de Crosne ,Sieyes aBonaparte a fait present de tr6ne .

”

Under the empire S ieyes was created a count.During the Hundred Days , S ieyes took his place in the

Chamber of Peers, but at the second restoration he wasban ished as one of the regic ides . He went to Brussels,but after the Revolution of 1 830 returned to Paris, wherehe d ied in 1 836.

To finish w ith one more worthy, of a character very

different from the rest Marc Antoine Désaugiers. Born

THE CAVEAU 1 27

at Pe'

j us in 1772 , he d ied in 1 827 . He was the sou lof the Caveau M oderne.

The old Caveau had been founded by P iron , Col lé,and others . They met twice a month at the wine- shopof L andel le

,where they produced songs, stories , and

epigrams they had composed,d ined and drank to

gether. This réunion began in 1 737 , and lasted overten years .A fter the 9thThermidor, and the fal l of Robespierre,

the Terror was at an end . Men began to breathefreely

,lift up thei r heads

,and look abo ut for amuse

ments to indemnify themSelve s for the reign of horrorsthey had passed through . Then some choice spiritsrenewed the remin iscences of the old Caveau

,and met

near the Theatre of the Vaudevil le,Opened in 1 792 .

The songs that were sung,the stories there told

,flew

about . The publ ic des ired to share in the merriment,

and in Vendémiai re of the year V. (September, 1 796)appeared the first number ofthe Caveau M oderne. Thetavern at which the company me t was “ L e Rocher deCancalle . A complete ed ition of the songs was published i n 1 807. The tunes to which the songs were setwere either wel l-known folk-melod ies , or opera-houseairs .Désaugiers wasa large contributor.A s a specimen of his style I give some stanzas of

his Carnaval .”

Momus agite ses grelo ts,

Comus allume ses fourneaux,Bacchus S ’enivre sur Sa tonne ,

Palas déraisonne , Apollon détonne,Troub le divin

,b ruit infernal

V’laC’que c

’est que l

’

Carnaval.

1 2 8 THE R I V IERA

Umchar p ompeusement ornéPrésente anotre oeil étonnéQuinz e poissardes qu

’avec peine

Une rosse traine Jupiter les meneUn Cul-de -j atte est achevalV

’lae

’que c’est que l’Carnaval.

“ Arlequin courtise Junon,Columb ine poursuit Pluton,Mars Madame Ango t qu’il emb rasse ,Crispin une Grace

,Venus umPaillasse

Ciel, terre , enfers, tout est égalV ’lae

’que c’est que l’

Carnaval.

M ercure veut rosser Jeanno t,On crie ala garde aussitOtE t chacun voit de l

’aventure

Le pauvre M ercure ala prefecture ,Couché

,-sur nu p roces verbal

V ’lae’que c’est que l’Carnaval.

“ Profitant aussides j ours gras,L e traiteur déguise ses plats,

Nous offre vinaigre en b outeille ,

Ragout de la vieille , Daub e encore plus vieilleNous payons b ien, nous soupons malV

’lae’que c’e st que l

’Carnaval.

Carosses pleins sont par milliersRegorgeant dans tous les quartiersDedans, dessus, devout, derniere ,Jusqu

’ala p ortiere, quelle fourmiliere

D es fous on croit voire l’hopitalV

’la e

’que c’est que l’Carnaval.

Quand on a b ien ri, b ien couru,Bien chanté, b ien mangé e t b u,Mars d’un frippier reprend l

’enseigne ,

Pluton son emp eigne , Jupiter son p eigneTout rentre en place e t, b ien ou mal,

V’lae

’

que c’est que l

’Carnaval.

”

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CHAPTER IX

DRAGU IGNAN

The Department of Var—A lifeless town— Dolmen—S . Armentarius

kills a dragon—The oldwalled town—The Fronde—The Sabreurs andthe Canifets—Les Toure ttes—Joanna I . of Naples ; her story

—TheCrown of Jerusalem— Charles I . of Anjou—Death of Conradin

M urder ofAndrew ofHungary—Philippine Cabane—Louis ofHungaryinvades Naples

—Joanna b uys a sentence clearing her of guilt by thesale of Avignon— Joanna’s many sales—Again declared innocent

Charles of Duraz z o—Urban V I . and Clement VII .—U1 ban incites

Charles against Joanna ; her assassination ; her character—ButelloDeath of Charles—Joanna II. makes Réné her heir—PedigreeJoanna and Caracciolo .

RAGUIGNAN i s the capital ofthe Department ofVar. The name of the department i s a misnomer.

It received the name when the department extended tothat river

,formerly the boundary of France. But when

,

i n 1 860,Nice was ceded to France and the department of

the Marit ime A lps was formed,then a s l ice of territory

,

through which flowed the R iver Var, was detached andun ited to the new ly constituted department. The con

sequence i s that the R iver Var at no point runs throughthe department to which it gave its name .

Draguignan i s not an interest ing town . I t l ives on itscharacter as departmental capital . I t has no manufactu res

,no trade

,no l ife save that which is infused into

A L IFELES S TOWN 1 3 1

it when the young folk come up there for examinationfor professions , and from the m i l itary who are quarteredthere

,and from the prisons which accommodate the

criminals of the department. Draguignan is supposedto have been a Greek town cal led A ntea . But theremust have been people l iving here in prehistoric t imes,for near the town is a dolmen as fine as any in Brittanyor Wales . I t is composed of four upright stones supporting a quoit eighteen feet long and fifteen wide

,and

the height above the ground is seven feet.I n the Middle Ages the place was cal led Drachoenum

,

and it was fabled that the old town stood on theheights above, as the plain was ravaged by a dragon .

S t . A rmentarius,Bishop of A ntibes (A .D . 45 1 ) slew the

monster,whereupon the people came down from the

heights and settled where is the present town . Thetown real ly began to flourish in the thirteenth century

,

when,owing to the s ilting up of the port of F rej us , that

c ity decl ined in prosperi ty. Then it was surrounded bya wal l pierced by three gates , of which two remain .

Within the old wall s the streets are scarce six feetwide

,and the houses run up to a great height. The sun

never penetrates to thei r pavement . The town wasalso defended by a castle on rising ground . I n 1 535Draguignan was one of the principal S énéchaussées ofProvence. She rapid ly spread beyond the wal ls

,and

then a second circui t of walls was erected where is nowthe boulevard but portions of the ramparts to the eastand north- east stil l remain .

I n 1 650 Dragu ignan was the scene of bloody fightson account of the troubles of the Fronde. During them inority of Louis X IV.

,the Regent , Anne of Austria,

committed al l authority to Cardinal Mazarin . He

1 3 2 THE RIV IERA

l oaded the country with taxes,took away the privileges

from the towns , and from the nobles,and strove to

central ise the Government and establ i sh the despotismof the Crown . This roused the fiercest opposit ion

,and

the country was divided into factions one for the Courtand central ization , the other for the maintenance oflocal self-government. This l atter party was the F ronde .

I n Dragu ignan some Frondists attempted to ge t hold ofthe castle ; the people rose , armed with spits and clubs ,and drove them away. The parties d istingu ished themselves by wearing ribbons , white or blue.

Two years later civi l war broke out again between the

S abreurs , the Fronde party,and the Canife ts

,the

favourers of Royal prerogat ive ; each was headed bya young peasantess armed with a scythe. Frightfulviolence ensued . The mayor and many offi cers of thetown were k i l led . Men

,women , and children were mas

sacred ind iscrim inately as this or that faction got theupper hand .

The king sen t troops to D raguignan , and o rdered thedemol i tion of the castle

,which was the bone of conten

t ion between the parties, and most of the Sabreurs fledinto Piedmont . The story goes that a cavalry regimentcal led La Cornette blanche was quartered in the town ,and having behaved with great insolence , the peoplerose in the n ight and massacred every man in theregiment . But in the mun ic ipal records there is nothing

to be found to confi rm the tradit ion .

L es Tourettes by Fayence , easi ly access ible from

Dragu ignan , i s a most extraordinary pi le, l ike no othercastle known . I n the time of the rel igious wars it washeld by the Carcists, and they, being short of provis ions,at n ight raided the neighbourhood . The people of

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1 34'

TH—E R I V IERA

led Urban IV. to invite S . L ou is,King of France

,to

assume the title of King ofS ic i ly and Naples . But thedel icate consc ience of Lou is revo l ted from such anusurpation . I f the Crown were hereditary

,i t belonged

to Conradin, grandson of Frederick I I .

,the Great

Redbeard , Emperor, King of Germany and of S ici ly.

But Charles of Anjou , the brother of S . L ou is , was lessscrupulous. He accepted the invitat ion . On the deathofUrban , Clement IV. pursued the same pol icy. Manfred , the uncle of Conradin,

then wore the Crown ofthe Sicilies . He was defeated by Charles and fel l i nbattle, 1 266 , before the army of the Pope and of Charlesof Anjou

,marching as crusaders . Manfred left an only

chi ld,Constance

,married to Peter I I I . , King of A ragon ,

Conradin,at the head of an army, advanced to claim

the Crown that was now his by right, regardless of

the excommunication and curses hurled at him bythe Pope. He was defeated and taken prisoner.Clement

,fearfu l lest Charles shou ld deal len iently to

wards the last of the Hohenstaufens, wrote to urge himto smother al l feel ings ofpity.

“ The l i fe of Conradin,he wrote, i s the death of

Charles ; the death of Conradin i s the l ife of Charles”

;

and the Anjou prince had the last male of this noblerace execu ted publ icly. A s Conradin stood on the

scaffold ,he flung his glove among the people, crying out

that he constituted the King ofA ragon his heir.Charles was now King of the Two Sicilie s. But he

was ambitious of a more splend id title, and he boughtthat of Jerusalem from Mary of A ntioch, daughter

of Bohimund V .,who inherited the t i tle of King of

Jerusalem from his mother,Melusina, daughter of

Amaury de L usignan , twelfth sovereign of the Christ ian

JOANNA I. OF NAPLES 1 35

kingdom of Jerusalem . But Jerusalem i tsel f had fal leninto the hands of the Saracens in 1 244.

To return now to Jeanne de Naples .Joanna I . of Naples was born in 1 32 7 , and was the

daughter of Charles , Duke of Calabria , and of Marie deValois

,his second wife. Charles was the only son of

Robert the Good , King of Naples, who was the grandson of Charles of Anjou , brother of S . L ou is

,to whom

had been given the Crown of Naples by Pope Urban IV. ,

determ ined at any cost to destroy the Hohenstauffendynasty.

Charles , Duke of Calabria, died before his father,and Joanna succeeded to the throne at the age of

sixteen .

She had been badly brought up . Phil ippine Cabane,

a washerwoman,wife of a fisherman

,had been nurse to

Charles,and she became later the nurse and confidante

of Joanna . She was a very beautifu l and a thoroughlyunprincipled woman . On the death of her husband shemarried a young S aracen slave in the service of Raymond de Cabane

,maitre d

’

lzo‘

tel to the King. Raymondfel l under the influence of this Saracen , and he introduced him to King Robert

,who created him Grand

Seneschal , to the indignation of the S icil ian nobil ity, andhimsel f armed the S aracen kn ight .

1 Soon after marrying this man, we find “ la Cabanaise , as she was cal led ,installed as lady of honour to Catherine ofA ustria

,first

wife of Charles of Calabria . Soon she induced Raymondto adopt her husband , and to give him his t it le andbequeath his fortune to him . Catherine of A ustria died

,

and then Charles married Marie de Valois ; and when

1 The tomb of Raimond de Cabane , the maitre d’

hétel, is in theChurchofS . Chiara, Naples.

1 36 THE R IV IERA

Jeanne o r Joanna was born,Charles entrusted his ch ild

to this infamou s woman .

King Robert had been younger brother of CharlesMartel , King of Hungary, and the Crown ofNaples wasl iable to be d isputed between the branches . I t wastherefore deemed advisable to marry J oanna to Andrew,

son of Caroly I .,and grandson of Chailes Martel , King

ofHungary.

Joanna and Andrew were married when mere children—she

,i n fact

,was only seven when affianced to him .

She and Andrew never l iked each other, and when theyoccupied one throne

,disl ike ripened in to aversion two

factions rent the Court wi th thei r r ivalries,one favoured

by the King, the other by the Queen . A t l ast Phil ippineCabane induced Joanna to acquiesce in a plot to murderA ndrew. One even ing i n S eptember , 1 345, when theCourt was at Averso

,the Chamberlain of the King

entered the bedroom , where were A ndrew and Joanna,and announced to him that he had despatches of importance to communicate. Andrew rose from bed andwent into the adjoin ing apartment, where he was setup on , and hung from the bars of the window with arope into which gold thread had been twisted by thehands of Joanna

,for as Andrew was a king, L e t him

be strangl ed royal ly,” she had said .

The body of Andrew was left hanging from thewindow for two days . J oanna at the t ime was agedeighteen , but she was utterly corrupt in m ind . A t

qui te an early age she had had a liaison with the son ofla Cabanaise. Pope Clement VI . deemed it incumbenton him as suzerain to order the mu rderers to bepun ished ; bllt only accessories suffered . Phil ippine wastortured and d ied under tortu re. Her son

,Robert de

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1 38 THE R IVIERA

the Crown lands and rights in the Two Sicilies and inProvence. I t was further a breach of a solemn oath shehad taken to the barons “ that she would never al ienateor wrong her royal and loyal estates of Provence.

”

But

Joanna was in need of money to prosecute the waragainst L ou is of Hungary. For this purpose she soldrights and domains wherever she cou ld

'

find a purchaser.She disposed of the forests of the Montagnes desMaures to the town of Hyeres

,and the fi shing i n the

lake of Hyeres as well . The rights of the Crown to theharvest of the kermes or cochineal i nsect that l ived on

the oaks,were also sold . Parts of the Esterel were

al ienated . Marsei l les and other towns bought of hervaluable privi leges .Meanwhile

,Lou is of Hungary had lost much of his

army about Naples,swept off by plague. He himsel f

returned to Hungary , carrying with him the son ofJoanna, born two months after the death of Andrew,

deserted by her at Naples ; the child , however, d iedsoon after. Joanna

,whitewashed by the Pope

,returned

to Naples in 1 348, i n A ugust, whereupon L ouis againappeared in I taly at the head of an army, but met withsmal l success

,and a truce was arranged ; whereupon

Joanna returned to Avignon , there to have her gu i l tor innocence formal ly tried before three card inals nomius ted by the Pope.

L ou is accused Joanna of being more than accessoryto the murder of her husband

,and L ou is of Tarentum

ofbeing an instigator of the crime , and Card inal Tal leyrand Perigord as having also been in the plot.Joanna appeared before the Papal Commi ss ion . She

pleaded gu i lty on ly to having disl iked her husband ,and claimed that this was due to witchcraft. She was

JOANNA ’

S CHARACTER 1 39

acqu itted as innocent of al l charges brought against her ;and as the POp e was regarded as infal l ible j udge, i nmorals as in matters of faith

,the world was constrained

to acquiesce in the judgment.Joanna retu rned to Naples, where she held a gay,

voluptuous court,frequented by the wits and artists of

I taly. Boccaccio wrote for her his fi l thy tales; whichhe afterwards grouped together in the Deeaneeron.

Petrarch corresponded with her. Leonardo da Vinc ipainted her portrai t ; pupils ofGiotto painted for her ;T roubadours sang before her, and were fulsome in theirpraise.But her rule was no rule at al l . The country suffered

from misgovernment. Companies of adventu rers ravagedthe k ingdom,

and carried their depredations to the very

gates of Naples . Joanna cared for none ofthese thingsd id not give over her revelries and carn ival entertainments . Her husband L ou i s was offended at her shameless gal lantries , and beat her with his fists . He died inMay

,1 362 ; and she at once offered her hand to James

of the House of A ragon , claimant to the throne ofMajorca

,a young and chivalrou s prince. He accepted

,

and they were married in 1 363 ; but she would notal low him any further title than that of Duke of

Calabria .

He was d isgusted with the frivol ity ofher Court,and

with her conduct, and fearing lest the same fate shouldbefal l him that had come on her first husband Andrew

,

he quitted Nap les and fled to Spain . James of A ragondied

,and in 1 376 Joanna married O tto of Brunswick.

This fourthmarriage offended Charles ofDurazzo , grandson ofJohn de Gravia, younger brother ofRobert, Kingof the Two Sicilies, who calculated on succeeding to the

140 THE R IV IERA

throne and the county of Provence should Joanna d iech ildless. His father L ou is had been poisoned by QueenJoanna . Now ensued the great schism.

For seventy years the papal court had been at Avignon ,and the Romans were sore that the money accru ing fromthe influx of pilgrims , l i tigants , and suitors to the Popeshould flow into the pockets of the Avignonese insteadof thei r own . Gregory IX . had

‘

come to Rome,urged

thereto by 8 . Catherine of S iena ; and there he died in1 378 . Thereupon the Romans

,armed and furious

,su r

rounded the conclave of the Card inals,shouting for a

Roman Pope. A t the t ime there were in R ome s ixteenCardinals ; eleven were French , fou r I tal ian , and oneSpan ish . I ntimidated by the menaces of the populace

,

quaking for thei r l ives,the Cardinal s elected the A rch

bishop ofBari , a narrow-minded man,ofl ow birth

,coarse

manners , no tact, and , as proved eventual ly, of remorseless cruelty . He showed at once of what stuff he wasmade by insu lting the Card inals

,and by threats of

swamping the col lege with I tal ian creations . The Cardinals fled to Anagni , where they issued a declarationthat the election was void

,as i t had been made under

compulsion,and that thei r l ives had been threatened .

However, the newly-elected Pope assumed the name ofU rban VI . A s A rchbishop of Bari he had been thesubj ect of Joanna

,and she hailed his elevat ion , and sent

him shiploads of fru i t and wines,and the more sol id gift

of florins. Her husband , O tho of Brunswick ,went to Rome to pay his personal homage. But hisreception was cold and repel lent

,and he reti red in d is

gust.Only four Card inals adhered to POpe Urban . The

Card inals at Anagni proceeded to elect Robert, Bishop

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1 42 THE R IV IERA

an army in Hungary, and prepared to invade Neapol itanterri tories . Pope Urban hired the services of a ruflian

captain of a Free Company, A lberic Barbiano , to assist.U rban was not

,however, prepared to support Charles

without gett ing some advantage ou t of him ,and he

bargained withhim that the Principal ity ofCapua shou ldbe given to his nephew ,

Butillo Prignanof When Charlesarrived in Rome

,Urban decreed the deposit ion of Joanna

,

and invested Charles with the sovereignty ,and himself

crowned him . I n the meantime U rban was busy informing a party in Naples against the Queen , to whomClement had fled . Among the twenty- s ix Card inalswhom he created in one day were several Neapol itansof the highest fam i l ies and d ign ities in the kingdom .

He degraded the A rchbishop of Naples , and appointedin his room Bozzato

,a man of influence and ofpowerfu l

connexions in the c ity. By this means he secured afaction in Naples

,Opposed to Joanna and to her Pope.

The new A rchbishop set himself at the head of theOpposit ion . Clement was so alarmed for h is safety thathe embarked , escaped to Provence, and retreated toAvignon .

The Hungarian and Papal forces marched into thekingdom of Naples

,and me t with no organised res ist

ance. Joanna was besieged in the Castel Nuovo , andO tho of Brunswick was captured in a sortie. Joanna invain awaited help from the Duke of A njou

,and was

forced by fam ine to su rrender. She was confined'

in

Muro,and at first was wel l treated

,as Charles hoped

that she would revoke her wi l l in his favou r. But whenhe saw that she was resolved no t to do this

,he sent to

ask the King of H ungary what was to be done with her.The answer was that the same measu re was to be meted

CHARACTER OE‘

JOANNA 1 43

out to her that had been measured to Andrew ; and shewas either strangled whilst at her prayers, or smothe redunder a feather bed

,on May 1 2 th, 1 382 .

She was buried first at Muro,and then her body was

transferred to Naples .Opin ions were d ivided as to her character. Angelo de

Perugia qual ified her as“ santiss ima

,

” and spoke of heras “ l

’

onore del mundo, la l uce del i I tal ia”

; Petrarch

greatly admi red her ; and recently , Mistral has com

posed a poem in which she is painted as a blamelessand misrepresented personage. Her s ister Maria wasalmost as bad as hersel f.

'

She also had her husband ,Robert des Baux ,

murdered . I t i s true that she hadbeen married to him against her wil l . When she go tthe power in her hands she flung him into prison , and ,entering the dungeon, along with four armed men

,had

him assassinated before her eyes,and the body cast o ut of

a window and left withou t burial , t i l l Joanna heard of hersister’s action

,when she sent and had the body decen tly

interred .

1

A fter that Joanna had been put to death , Marie,natural daughter of Robert of Naples , and aunt ofJoanna

,was tried and executed as having been privy

to the plot to murder Andrew. This Marie had carriedon an intrigue with Boccaccio, and is bel ieved to bethe F iammetta of the Decameron ; but according toothers , F iammetta was intended for Joanna herself.The Pope’s nephew, who was to be invested with the

1 The portraits ofJoanna and of Louis ofTarentum may b e seen in

the Churchof Sta. Maria l’

Incarnata, whichshe built in Naples. Her

marriage is there represented in a fresco b y one of the pupils ofGio tto ;again, another picture is ofher in Confession. She is also represented on

the tomb ofKing Rob ert, her grandfather, in the Churchof S . Chiara,Naples .

1 44 THE R I V IERA

Principal i ty ofCapua as the price of Urban ’s ass istance,

soo n after this broke into a convent and ravished a nunof high birth and great beau ty. Complaints were madeto the Pope. He laughed it off as a ven ial outburst ofyouth ; but Butillo was forty years old . The new king

’sj ustice would not, however , endure the crime. A capitalsentence was passed on Butillo . Pope 1Urban annul ledthe sentence

,and Rutillo was

,i f

~not rewarded , boughtoff by being given a wife , the daughter ofthe j usticiary,

and of the king’s kindred

,with a dowry of florins

a year,and a noble castle at Nocera . Thus sat isfied

,

Urban excommunicated L ou is of A njou,declared him

accursed,preached a crusade against him ,

and offeredplenary indulgence to al l who should take up armsagainst him .

The War of I nheritance ensued after the death ofJoanna

,devas tat ing al ike Naples and Provence.

Charles of Durazzo,whom Urban had crowned

,had

married h is cousin Margaret, daughter of his uncleCharles

,who had been executed in 1 348 by L ouis of

Hungary, for having counsel led the murder ofhis cousinAndrew. The father of Charles had been , as al readyintimated

,poisoned by Joanna. L ou is , King of Hungary,

d ied in 1 38 2 whereupon Charles cla imed that kingdom ,

bu t was taken by E l i zabe th , widow of L ou is,thrown

into prison,and murdered there by her orders . Charles

left a son,L adislas

,and a daughter, Joanna. L adis las

was poisoned in 14 14 ,as was supposed

,and then

J oanna I I . became Queen of the Two Sicilie s . A lthoughtwice married

,she had no fam i ly

,and she adopted

Réné of Anj ou and Provence as her heir, and d ied in1435The whole ped igree is such a tangle, and the place of

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1 46 THE R I V IERA

Jeanne I I . , says A lex is de Saint Priest,“ fit assoir

tou s les vices sur le trOne des Angevins sans la com

pensation d’

aucun talent , nid’

aucune vertu .

” Joanna I .had some cleverness, and in that, and in that alone, wassuperior to the second Joanna .

Charles I . Beatrice , heiress ofProvence.

Duke of Anjou ,son ofLouisVIII .

of France , K. of

Naples 1 2 66 ,ofJerusalem 1 2

a’. 1 2 85.

Charles I I . (the Lame ) Mary, heiress ofHungary.

K . OfNaples andJerusalem,

crowned 1 2 89, a’. 1 309.

Charles Martel, Rob ert, Philip , John ofGravina,K. ofHungary, K . ofSicilies , Prince of Dulce ofDuraz z o.

a’. 1 30 1 . a

’. Tarentum.

l

Charles IL , Charles ,K. OfHungary, Duke ofCalabria,d. 1 342 . d. 1 328.

I

Louis, Andrew=Joanna I . ,Mary Charles, Louis,K . of murdered d. 1 382 . d. 1 366. beheaded poisoned

Hungary, 1 348 . 1 348. 1 362 .

d. 1 382 . l

Joanna IL ,

Q . of Sicilies and Jerusalem,

and Countess Of Provence ,d. 1435. Constituted Réné

ofAnjouherheir.

Margaret Charles II I . ,

a’. 14 1 2 . Duke ofDuraz zo,

murdered1 386.

slas ,King ofHungary, theSicilies, and Jerusalem,

d. 14 14.

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1 48 THE R I V IERA

trap,basalt, and blue quartzite porphyry. Beside this

is the new red sandstone and the Bunter sandstone.

Variety of soi l gives variety of vegetation ; plantationsof mimosa

,not over a quarter of a centu ry Old

,thrive

on the primit ive rocks , and are mixed with cork trees ,umbrel la pines

,oaks , bushes of c istus

,laurestinas

,

myrtle,rosemary, heath, broom ,

and in the springgleamthe white spears of the asphodel . I t i s a district i nwhich geologi st , botanist , and artist wi l l revel al ike .

The group of the Estérel,” says Lenthéric, “ differs in

form,in colour

,in origin, from all the littoral mountains of

the Provencal coast. It is entirely composed of primitiveerup tive rocks ; its highest summits may not reach above

feet ; but all its ridges are pointed, and of a redness offire. The crests of the mountains are bald and savage. Thecliffs are abrupt, torn into p rojecting and retreating angles,and form on the sea-face an inaccessible fortification, defendedby an archipelago of islets and reefs of almost polished

porphyry, over which the waves have broken dunng manycenturies without having been able to p roduce upon themany appreciable marks of geological erosion . The outline

,

the denticulation, the anfractuosities Of the shore, the fiordsand the rocky caverns into whichthe sea p lunges, are little

different to -day from what they were at the Opening of historictimes, even, one may say, at the beginning of our own

geologic period.

” 1

This wi ld and wondrous region was occupied by a

L igurian tribe of S uelteri, who have left thei r name ,much corrupted

,to the d istrict. The Romans found it

diflicult to conquer them,but they carried the Aurel ian

Road along the coast,where runs now the New

Corniche Way1 La Provence Maritime

,Paris, 1 897.

CHARLES V 1 49

When Charles V. penetrated into Provence , withintention to annex it

,and Francis I . retreated b e

fore him,he was so harassed by the natives of the

Esterel swooping down on his convoys and capturingthem,

or cutt ing to pieces detached regiments , that heset the forests on fi re

,and for a week or ten days flames

raged about the ruddy cl iffs , making them look asif they had been heated red hot, and either burningthe gal lant defenders or driving them in desperation tobreak forth from this vast raging kiln to fal l on the

p ikes ofhis men-at-arms .Men

,women

,chi ldren , cattle, al l peri shed in this

horrible pyre ; and when the conflagration died out fo rlack of fuel

,nothing was left but the ashes of the burn t

forest,mixed with the calc ined bones of those who had

perished in it,above which stood the gaunt red Sp i res

of rock,l ike petrified flames . S uch conduct provoked

reprisals,and not a soldier of the invaders was spared

who fel l into the hands Of the exasperated Provencals .A t the l ittle vi l lage of L e Muy stood , and stands sti l l ,

a sol itary tower by the side of the road,along which

the Emperor was marching. I t was old and in decay,

a ru in in the midst of ruins ; and so l ittle d id i t excitesusp i cion that the Imperial ists d id not trouble toexamine it .But five gentlemen , witnesses of the atrocities com

mitted by Charles V . , bound themselves to revengethem. Accompanied by fifteen sold iers and about thirtypeasants wel l armed , al l as devoted and intrepid asthemselves , they shut themselves into the old tower.There each p lanted his arquebus in a loophole or acrack in the walls , resolved to shoot down the Emperoras he passed . Clouds of dust announced the approach

1 50 THE R I V IERA

of the hosti le army. None of the devoted men knewCharles by sight , but they hoped to recognize him bythe superior splendour of hi s armour, and the state thatsurrounded him . But one of the fi rst to go by , i n

gorgeous panoply, was the Spaniard Garcia Lu z z io,

mounted on a noble courser,and accompanied by picked

sold iers . Think ing that this must be the Empe ror, theProvencal gentlemen poured upon

’

the Spaniard a hai lof bul lets

,and he fel l from his horse

,dead .

S uch an unexpected assau lt staggered the sold iers ofL uz z io for a moment. But they speedily ral l ied andrushed to the tower bravely to revenge the death of

thei r leader. The Provencals repl ied by a fresh d ischarge, which overthrew several Of the soldiers . Knowing that they must expect death, they were resolved tosel l thei r l ives cl early ; and they were able to ki l l anumber of their assai lants when they came on,

withouto rder and d iscipl ine.

To sacrifice as few as possible,the ofl‘icers ordered the

sold iers to withdraw and await the commands of theEmperor. Charles V . came up and had cannon level ledat the tower

,and the gal lant defenders either perished

i n its ru ins,or fel l i nto the hands Of the Imperial ists ,

who hung them from the trees round about .I n time the E sterel was again clothed in forest, and

then became the haun t Of al l the outlaws and gaolb ird s who had broken loose. These were organ isedinto a body by one Gaspard de Besse , the Robin Hoodof the d istrict. He with his band became the terrorof Provence, waylaying merchants on the high roads ,and retreating to various caves sti l l shown in severalplaces

,after having plundered unfortunate travellers .

Whem pursuit was hottest, he escaped to the Esterel .

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1 52 THE R I V IERA

nothing is wrongwith your equ ipages, and your harness ; forno assistance is to be met withthere. If they see that youare in difficu lties, they laugh; if that you are in danger, theypass by on the other side of the way. Shou ld a parchedtraveller venture to p luck a bunchofgrapes, it is well for himif this slight indiscretion does not bring on him blows of acudgel, a stone, or a shot from the gun of the owner. Thecries of the peasants are those of the tiger,

'

and like the tigeris their vivacity and their fury . Quarrels lead to insu lts, andinsu lts are met witha blow Of a stick, a stone, or the stabof a knife, Often enoughmortal in its effects . H e who hascommitted sucha crime thinks nothing of its consequences,save how they may affect himself. He abandons his victim,

or else puts him out of the way of deposingagainst him. H e

runs away . Watching for his p rey either in the ravines ofO llioules or in the dep ths of the forests of the Esterel, he waylays the traveller. H e begins as a robber, and speedily becomes an assassin by trade. This is how the brigands arerecru ited who infest the roads of Provence.

”

Now al l that i s of the past. The French Tourists ’Club has made paths and roads i n al l d i rections

,and

the Esterel may be t raversed even more safely thanRegent S treet.The Esterel can be visited from Cannes or S .

Raphael , but the real centre for excursions i s Agay,an ideal nook for a winter resort. The Mornes Rouges ,a hem icycle of heights , curves about the harbour, andcuts offevery butfle of the Mistral . The Cap Dramonti ntercepts the winds from the west . I t possesses goodhotels

,and if a vis i tor for the winter could tear h imsel f

away from the gaieties Of Cannes , he would spend amonth here with perfect comfort

,i n a warmer cl imate,

and with any number of del ightfu l excursions to be

made from it. Agay and Antheor are two settlements

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1 54 THE R IV IERA

and a late Composi tion,utterly worthless

, one“ which

says Baronius, the Church historian ,“ cannot b e

l

read

withou t d isgust , except by those possessed of i ronstomachs , and wits cankered with the rust of ignorance.

”

Honoratus was son of a Romano -Gaul ish nobleman,

l iving i t i s not certain where. When quite a young manhe longed to embrace a sol itary l i fe, away from the d istractions and pleasu res Of the corrupt society and thedegenerate c ivi l i zat ion of the time. His fathe r

,notic ing

the d irection of the l ad ’s mind,charged his eldest son ,

V enantius, a gay and impetuous youth,to turn him

from this purpose ; but on the contrary, i t was he whogained his brother ; and the two young men left thei rhome and wandered to the East . There

,overcome by

the hardships of the journey, V enantius

,who was

del icate , succumbed , and Honoratus buried him . Thenhe set his face westward

,and on reaching Provence

made the acquain tance Of L eontius,Bishop of Fréj us,

and opened to him his heart . L eontius advised him totest the sincerity of hi s purpose

,and recommended him to

find some sol itary nook in the E sterel where he m ightspend time in preparation and prayer. Then Honoratus

,

wandering among the forests and the flaming red rocks,l ighted on a cave on Cap Roux and made that hisplace of retreat. L ater, being resolute in purpose , hedeparted

,and

,accompanied by a few others of l ike

mind,crossed over to the I sle of L e rins and made that

his abode. By degrees a l i ttle commun ity formed there

about h im . Honoratus , whose fine face,as Eucherius

says,was r adiant with a sweet . and attractive majesty,

received’

a multitude of d isc iples of al l nations , who

flocked to him and the island became the great centre

HONORATUS 1 55

of learn ing and hol iness for Gau l . He showed theutmost tenderness in the management of those whocommi tted themselves to his guidance. He sought topenetrate to the depths Of thei r hearts , to understandthei r troubles and difficu lties . He neglected no effortto dispel every sadness

,al l painful recol lect ion of the

world . He watched their sleep,their health , thei r

labours,that he might draw each to serve God accord

ing to the measu re Of his strength . Thus he inspiredthem with a love more than fi l ial . I n him, they said ,

“ we find not only a father, but an entire family, acountry

,the whole world .

” When he wrote to any of

those who were absent,they were wont to say, on

receiving a letter, written , according to the usage of thetime

,upon tablets of wax

,

“ He has poured back honeyinto the wax

,honey drawn from the inexhaustible

sweetness of h is heartThe monks

,who had sought happiness by renouncing

secular l ife, protested that they had found it on the I sleof L erins

,under the guidance of Honoratus.

But every now and then , overburdened with the careof a great community, Honoratus longed to be alone,to rest from these engross ing cares , and to spend hist ime in searching his own heart and commun ing withGod.

He had a young kinsman , H i lary by name, of whomI have already spoken

,l iving i n the world . Honoratus

soughthim out in his oldhome and earnestly endeavouredto draw him to embrace the monastic l ife. But his persuasion fai led . H i lary stubbornly refused . Before heleft , Honoratus said

,

“Wel l,then

,I wil l obtain from

Godwhat you now refuse me . And he retreated,either

to his cave in the Esterel or to h is island of Lerins, to

1 56 THE R I V IERA

pray for his relative. Three days after he was goneH i lary changed his m ind . On the one hand

,

” he says,

I thought I saw God cal l ingme ; on the other the worldseducing me. How Often d id I embrace

,and then

reject, wil l and then not wi l l , the same thing. But in theend, Je sus Christ triumphed in me .

”And going to the

sea-coast he boated over to L erins .

Honoratus was elected Bishop of A rles in 426 , andd ied in the arms of H i lary, who succeeded him ,

i n 429 .

Who thinks of this saintly Old man when in thebustl ing rue S . Hono re

’

,i n Paris

,that i s cal led after

him ?There i s no need for me to describe the marvels Of

rock scenery in Mal I nfernet,the Ravin d’

Uz el, theRochers du Pigeonn ier, or the many other sights of theEsterel

,for there are two or three excel lent l i ttle

gu ide-books to this most fascinating region , easi lyobtainable at Cannes .I n addition to Agay, there are other comfortable

places wel l furn ished with hotels,where one may spend

many pleasant days,as Theoule and L e T rayas . And

as there is not on ly the New Corn iche Road , but also themain l ine sk irting the E sterel , i t i s easi ly accessible andeasily abandoned shou ld books run short and rain fal l .

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CHAPTER X I

GRASSE

Advantages of situation—Fine scenery in neighbourhood—The fouxManufactures— Romeo de ViUeneuve—Charles ofAnjou—In SicilyThe Sicilian Vespers

—Deathof Charles—The transfer of Episcopal

Chair to Grasse from Antibes—Antoine Godean —Cathedral—CathedralofVence—Western Choirs—Attempt to b low up the Bishop—TheHOtel Cab ris— L ouise de Cab ris—The Mirabeaus- Cab ris—Gab rielH onoré—André Boniface—The Gorges of the L oup

— Gourdon

Mouans Sartoux- The Calvinist Seigneur— Pompée de Grasse

Susanne de Villeneuve — Francois de Theas Thorenc— Fragonard-Petty quarrels—The Flowers ofGrasse .

RASSE ,once a great resort , during the winter, for

visitors, has ceased to be that, unless i t be outof curios ity. They run up by train from Cannes for acouple Of hou rs and return by the next. The onlyforeign residents there for the winter season are such ashave bought vil las which they cannot dispose of. But

Grasse possesses advantages not shared by Cannes . It

i s far better protected against cold winds , as it l iesunder the great l imestone wal l that supports the bareterrace before the A lp s . But

,buil t as it i s on a steep

slope, it is not a p l ace where any one witha weak heartcan l ive , unless con tent to l ive at his window. There isscarce a bit of level street in the p lace. The shop s arenaught and entertainments ind ifferent . But then— it i san admirable centre for a stay Of a few weeks

, for one

157

1 58 THE R I V IERA

who des ires to exp lore the magn ificent scenery of theLoup , the curious country in the great loop made by\

the R iver Var, S . Val l ier, and the upper waters of theS iagne ; Vence al so and S . Jeannet under its marvel louscrag, ful l Of crevasses and caves .Grasse must always have been a place where men

settled, from the earl iest days,as there is afou r , a great

outbu rst of purest water from the rock . The cave fromwhich i t rushes i s now closed up

,and the water is l ed

to the place where the women wash clothes,and by

pipes i s conveyed about the town . There is,however

,

no evidence that the town was one i n Greek or

Roman times,and it fi rst appears in history in 1 1 54 ;

but then it was a place ofsome consequence,and short ly

after that it contracted al l iances on an equal footingWiththe Pisans and the Genoese . Throughout the MiddleAges it throve on its manufactu res of soap, i ts leather , i ts

gloves , i ts refined oi l and scents . I t was a free andindependent town

, govern ing i tself l ike the I tal iancommun ities , as a Republ ic , with its annual ly electedconsu l s ; and when i t submi tted in 1 2 2 7 to RaymondBerenger, Count Of Provence, i t made i ts own termswith him. Grasse attained to great prosperity under thecelebrated seneschal Romeo de Vil leneuve, a remarkableman,

whose story may here be told .

Douce, the heiress of the Counts of Provence, marriedRaymond Berenger I Count of Barcelona, who died in1 1 3 1 . From him i n d irect l ine descended RaymondBerenger IV.

,whose most trusty servant was Romeo de

Vil leneuve . This man arrived at the court of the Countas a pilgrim ,

staff in hand and cockleshel l in bat,

coming from a vis it to S . James of Composte llo .

Something attractive about the man drew the attention

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1 60 THE R I V IERA

card inals to attend the Counci l . But Frederick hadprepared a powerful fleet in S ic i ly and Apu l ia

,under

the command of h is son,Enz io. Pisa jo ined him with

al l her gal leys . The Genoese and Provencal fleet me t

that of the Emperor off the is land of Meloria ; theheavi ly laden Genoese and Provencal vessels wereworsted after a sharp confl ic t ; three galleys were sunk ,twenty- two were taken . S ome of the prelates wentdown in the sunken gal leys ; among the prisoners werethree card inals

,four archbi shops

,and six bishops .

Card inal O tho was in the fleet,return ing to Rome

with Engl ish pl under. He had been col lecting enormous sums by exactions on the clergy

-

and free-wil lofferings for the replenishing of the Papal treasury, andthe prosecution of the holy war against Frederick . A ll

this now fel l i nto the hands of the Imperial ists . Romeowas not taken prisoner ; he fought w i th determ inedc ourage, and even captured one of the hosti le vessel s ,and brought it back to Marsei l les .

Raymond Berenger d ied in 1 2 45 ; by his wil l he hadconfided the regency to Romeo

,alongwith the guardian

ship Of his daughters .Romeo assembled the Provencal nobles and the

representatives of the chief towns,and made them swear

al legiance to Beatri x , the daughter of his old master,

who had been constituted heiress Of Provence.

Romeo succeeded in getting her married to Charles of

Anjou , brother of L ou is IX . This was done with wisepurpose

,but events proved— events over which Romeo

had no control— that i t was a d isastrous mistake.

I n his determ inat ion to root out the Hohenstauffenfrom I taly

,Pope Clement IV. offered the crown of

Nap les and S ic i ly to this Charles . This was, as

ROMEO DE V I LLENEUVE 1 6 1

Mr. Addington Symons wel l says ,“ the most pern icious

Of al l the evils i nfl icted by the papal power on I talyand on Provence.” Then fol lowed the French tyranny ,under which Boniface VI I I . expired at A nagni ;Bened ict X I . was poisoned at the instigat ion of Phi l iple Bel

,and the Papal see -was transferred to Avignon .

Provence was henceforth involved in the bloody warsof I taly ; i ts wealth, its manhood, were drained away,its Count passed to Naples to keep there his Court as aKing,

to the neglect of good government at home.

Romeo underwent the fate of al l honest and strongmen . He had made hintself enemies , who accused himto the prince of having enriched himsel f at the expenseof the province.Romeo produced his accounts before the prince,

showing that he had not betrayed his trust to the valueof a denier ; and then , resuming his pi lgrim

’s habit,

resumed also his wanderings . F inally he retired to thecastle of Vence, where he died . His wil l was datedDecember 1 8th

,1 2 50. Dan te places him i n Parad ise

“Within the p earl, that now enclosethusShines Romeo ’s light, whose goodly deeds and fairM et ill recep tance . But the Provencals,That were his foes, have little cause for mirth.

Ill shap es that manhis course , who makes his wrongOf o ther’s worth. Four daughters were there b ornTo Raymond Berenger and every oneBecame a queen and this for him did Romeo ,Thoughofmean state

,and from a foreign land

,

Yet envious tongues incitedhim to ask

A reckoning of that j ust one , who return’d

Twelve -fold to him for ten. Aged and poorHe parted thence and if the world did knowThe heart he had

,b egging his life by morsels,

’Twould deem the praise it yields him ,scantly dealt.”

(Par. vi. 1 3 1

THE R I V IERA

Charles of Anjou was at al l points Opposite to hisbrother L ou is IX .

—the Saint. The l atter was true tohis word

,j u st

,mercifu l

,and devoid of personal ambition .

But Charles was rapacious,cruel

,and of a vehement

character. His young wife , moreover, the sister of threequeens

,excited him to aspi re after a crown and he saw

in the county of Provence only a stepping- stone towardsa throne. He hoped to acquire that of Constant inople

,

and he supposed that he was on his way thereto when hel istened to the summons of the Pope to dispossessManfred of the Sicilies. This d isastrous resolve dec ided the fate of Provence

,and was the prime cause

of i ts ru in . I f in the Count Of A njou there had been a

gl immer of pol it i cal sense,he would have seen how

precarious a matter i t was to accept a sovereignty as afeudatory of the Holy See , and to become the sport ofc ircumstances ever shifting. He would have perceivedhow fatal i t would be to his fortunes to osci l late betweentwo centres to exhaust the sources of his real strengthin Provence to maintain himself i n Naples . The nobi l ityof Provence shared in his infatuation and eagerly jo inedin the undertak ing. A t the accession of Charles underthe wise government of Raymond Berenger, and thej ud iciou s husband ing Of i ts resources by Romeo deVi l leneuve

,Provence was at its acme of prosperity.

Charles brought it to ru in . A fter the execution Of

Conradin,he rode roughshod over the people of Naples

and S i c i ly. To his exactions there was no end . The

great fiefs were seized and granted to Provencal or

A ngevin favourites ; the foreign sold iers l ived at freequarters

,and treated the people with the utmost bar

barity. There ensued an iron reign of force without

j ustice, Without law, without humanity, without mercy.

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1 64 THE R I V IERA

sat s ilent , gnawing the top of h is sceptre , and thenbreaking forth into the most horrible vows of revenge.

Nor was the Pope behindhand in threats . I t wasto the Pope that Naples and S ic i ly owed the incubus ofCharles and his Provencals . Clement IV. indeed wasdead ; Martin IV. now sat in his Chair ; but thoughthere was a change in the pe rson of theChief Pontifi",there was no change of mind and poli cy.

The Palermitans sent an embassy to the Pope todeprecate his wrath , address ing him :

“O L amb of

God,that takest away - the sins of the world

,have mercy

On u s ! ” But even this adu lation cou ld not abate hisrage. He proclaimed a crusade against the S ic i l ians .Heaven was prom i sed to those who should draw thesword against them. A nathema was proclaimed againstal l who took thei r s ide .

But Peter of A ragon was ind ifferent to this eccles iast ical bluster

,and the S i c i l ians were desperate. I n spite

of the blessings and prom ises Of the Pope,Charles

encountered only disaster. His fleet was destroyed,his

son,Charles of S alerno, was captured ; his treasu ry was

exhau sted,and the principal nobil ity of A njou and

Provence had been decimated in the S ic i l ian vespers.He sank into despondency and d ied , 1 2 85.

Eventual ly, at the intercess ion of King Edward I . of

England , the young prince, Charles the L ame, was re

l eased . He swore to pay marks, and surrenderhis two sons as hostages t i l l the sum was paid , and al lowthe claim to the Two Sicilie s to drop . But no soonerwas he freed than Pope N icolas IV. annul led thetreaty ,

released Charles of his oaths,and crowned him

with his own hands . Charles d id not surrender his sons,nor pay his ransom .

ANTO INE GODEAU 1 65

“ This decree of N icolas , says Dean Milman ,’

“ wasthe most monstrous exercise of the absolving powerwhich had ever been advanced in the face of Chri stendom : i t struck at the root of al l chivalrous honou r, atthe faith of al l treaties .”

But Charles was fain‘

to content himsel f with hiscounties of Provence and

’

Anj ou , and no t al low himse l fto be drawn or impel led into wars by the Pope . I nProvence he found wounds to staunch

,ru ins to repai r.

I t i s highly to his credit that he frankly accepted thisd ifficult and not very bri l l ian t part. He avoided war

,

paid his father’s debts, t e

-established his finances,and

acquired in return the n ickname of Charles the Miserly.

A fter a reign of twenty-four years he d ied in 1 309 .

Grasse had been in the d iocese of Antibes,but in

1 24 3 Pope Innocent IV. transferred the seat of thebishop from Antibes to Grasse

,on account of the un

healthiness Ofthe former, and its l iabi l ity to be plunderedby the Moorish corsairs .The bishops Of Grasse were not in general men of

great mark. Perhaps the least insignificant of themwas Godeau.

Antoine Godeau, born at Dreux in 1 605, l ived inParis with a kinsman named Couart and as hethought he had the poeti c afl az

‘

us,he composed verses

and read them to his kinsman . Couart took the lyricsto some l iterary friends

,and they were appreciated .

Godean went on writ ing,and a l ittle coterie was formed

for l isten ing to his compositions ; and this was thenucleus out of which grew the A cademic Francaise.

Couart introduced Godean to Mlle. de Rambouil let,

and he be came her devoted admi rer,and a frequenter of

her soc ial gatherings . The lady says,i n one of her

1 66 THE R I V IERA

letters to Voitu re : “There is here a man smal ler than

yoursel f by a cubit,and

,I protest

,a thousand t imes

more gal lant .”

Godeau, who entered holy orders andbecame an abbé

,through his devotion to Mlle. de Ram

bouil let,Obtained the n ickname of “ Ju l ie’s Dwarf.”

Voitu re was jealous ofhim,begrudged the favour of

the lady who dispensed the l i terary reputations of theday, and he addressed a rondeau to Godean

Quittez l’amour, ce n’e st votre métier,

Faites des vers,traduisez le p sautier

Vo tre facon d’écrire est fort j olie

Mais gardez -vous de faire folie ,Ou j e saurais, ma foi, vous chatier

Comme un galant.”

Godeau l ived at a time when dancers about thesaloons of the toasts and blue stockings of Paris wererewarded with spoi ls from the Church ; and Godean,

when aged only thirty, was offered and accepted theun ited d ioceses of Grasse and Vence. He was consecrated, and went to Grasse. Thence he wrote toJ ul ie

Dans ce désert oil j e suis retourné,M on coeur languit, asouffrir dcstiné,E t mon e sp rit plein de mélancolieNe p ense plus qu

’ala b elle Julie .

it it

J’aimeraimieux etre aux fers condamnéDans le dur froid de l’ap re Corilie .

O Ramb ouille t O nymphe sij olie ,S ouffrire z vous que je sois confiné

Dans cc desert

However, Godeau d id his du ty at Grasse. I ndeed,

eventual ly,wearied with squabbles wi th his chapter

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THE CATHEDRAL 1 67

there,he threw up Grasse and retained only Vence, the

poorest of al l the sees in France.

Godeau was a voluminous writer, theological , histo rical, and poetic ; and excel led in none of these l ines .I n fact

,al l his works have been consigned to the l iterary

dust heap. His appointment to Grasse had fol lowedon his presentation of a paraphrase of the Benedicite toR ichel ieu. The Cardinal said,

“ Sir,you have given me

Benedicite. I in return render you GrasseThe Cathedral of Grasse i s of s ingularly uncouth

Gothic,of the twelfthcentury, with huge drums of

pi l lars,and the crudest of vaulting without any mould

ing being afforded to the ribs . Grasse possessedformerly a very curious featu re, shared wi th Vence, of

having the choir for bishop and chapter in the west

gal lery, over the porch . As this was so exceptional ,and as the early apse would not admi t of seats for thechap ter, a late bishop bu il t out a hideous structurebehind the high altar to accommodate himsel f and theclergy. But at Vence the arrangement remains intact.That church ofVence is of very early architecture

,I

am afraid Of stating how early. I t cons ists of a navewith double aisles on each side

,and the double aisles

are carried round at the west end . Each of the aisleson both sides of the nave is stone-floored and vau ltedunderneath , forming a gal lery. A t the west end

,both

aisles are so floored,and here

,above the narthex or

porch , is the choir,with most beauti ful ly carved stal ls

,

bishop’

s throne at the extreme west end ; and in them iddle of this odd l ittle upstairs choi r is the lecternwith its vel lum MS . book Of antiphons left as last used .

The date of the stal ls i s 1455—1460,and the lectern i s

but l ittle later.

THE R I V IERA

A cco rd ing to trad ition the chu rch‘was buil t ‘ i n the

s ixth century , on the s ite of a Pagan temple, and animage

‘

of an idol was buried under ' the foundations ofeach of the pi l lars . What i s certain i s that into two ofthe piers are inserted figures in alabaster from a Romanmonument , and that numerous vot ive

,tablets and

inscriptions are wal led into the church .

'

The beautifu lwoodwork Of the western choir escaped being blown tospl inters by a happy acc ident in 1 596.

On S unday, the Feast of S . Michael,the

'

bishopoccupied his throne at mass . When he stood up forthe Gospel , his foot broke through the floor of his stal l .He drew his foot out

,and after the conclusion of the

Creed proceeded to the pulpit to preach . Whi lst hewas away a choir boy looked into the hole made bythe bishop ’s foot

,thrust in an arm and drew out his

hand ful l of a black powder, which he showed to anOffi cer stand ing by, who at once recogn ised that thiswas gunpowder. A search was made

,and it was found

that enough gunpowder had been rammed in underthe throne to blow bishop and chapter up, and wreckthe chu rch. A fuse had been inserted through a holebored in the woodwork

,and it was supposed that the

purpose was to l ight this when the bishop returnedfrom the pu lpit. A messenger was at once sent to him ,

but he refused to desist from his sermon , calmly proceeding with it to the conclus ion , although the con

gregation, who had received wind Of the attempt, hadbegun to clear ou t of the church . He returned to his

throne and remained there to the end of the service. I twas never as certained by whom the plot was arranged ,whether by Huguenots, or whether i t was due to privatemal ice.

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1 79 THE R I V IERA

was presented by the Duke de V endOme,under whom

he had fought, to L ou is X IV. ,who received him with

some commonplace remark to which the old crippledsold ier repl ied rudely,

“ I f in quitting the Colours hehad come to Court payer quelque eatin he would havereceived more honour and less words .”

,1 Vend6me was

so scared at his audacity,that he said

,

“ Henceforth,Rique tti, I wil l present you to the enemy, and neveragain to the king.

”

The son of this man was Victor .de Rique tti, whocal led himself l

’

Ami des Hommes,

” a fantastic hodgepodge of contrad ictions . He was a phi lanthropist anda despot , a feudal ist, but also a reformer, a professedfriend ofmankind

,but a tyrant in his own fami ly. He

hated superstition , but scoffed at“ la canai l le philo so

phique .

”S eparated from his wife, he was engaged in

lawsu its with her for years,which publ ished to al l

Provence the scandals of the domestic hearth of theHouse of Mirabeau . The eldest son of this man wasGabriel Honoré, the great orator, and the youngestdaughter was L ou ise, Marchioness de Grasse-Cabris .The feudal castle of the Cabris i s on the way to

Dragu ignan . Cabris occupies a con ical hi l l i n a drearyl imestone d istrict

,where the soi l i s so sparse that even

the Ol ive cannot flourish there— it exists , that i s al l . Theplace is suppl ied with water from cisterns that receivethe rain from the roofs. Honoré was d isfigured bysmal lpox at the age of three, and he retained thenceforth an extraord inary hideousness of aspect whichstruck his contemporaries

,but which does not seem i n

the s l ightest to have impeded his success with women .

His father declared that physical ly and moral ly he wasa monster. The romance Of his l ife begins when he

CABR I S 1 7 1

was aged seventeen , when , owing to a love intrigue, andto debts

,his father Obtained a lettre d

’e eaeb et and had

him imprisoned in the isle Of Ré. From that timeensued a piti less struggl e, a veritable duel , between theimperious father and the ungovernable son. I n 1 772

Honoré married Em i l ie de Marignane at Aix ; she wasa wealthy heiress

,but he speedi ly d iss ipated her fortune.

His father Obtained an order that he should be internedat Manosque. But he broke bounds and came toGrasse to visit his s ister. Two days later an indecentpasqu inade appeared placarded over the wal ls OfGrasse,containing aspersions on the characters of the principallad ies ofrank who spent the winter there .

I t was at once bru ited abroad that Mirabeau and hiss ister, Mme . de Cabris , had concocted the lampoonbetween them . Mirabeau was incensed . He -was toomuch of a gentleman thus to defame lad ies ; and hehunted out M . de Vil leneuve-Mouans as the author ofthis report . He went after him one day

,when this old

gentleman was walking on the road bare-headed , withan umbrel la spread, horsewhipped him,

and brokethe umbrel la over his shoulders .The consequence was that a [etere ale eaefiet was taken

out against L ou ise ; but on investigat ion it turned out

that it was the Marqu is de Grasse-Cabris,the husband

of L ouise,who was the author of the scurri lous lampoon

,

and that Honoré had known nothing about i t.When the Revolution broke out

,the Marquis fled .

The Cast le Of Cabris was sacked by the mob,and

Lou ise and her husband l ived for ten years in greatpoverty as emigre} .

When , final ly, she returned to Provence it was toru ined Mirabeau . The castle had been wrecked

,but

1 7 2 THE R IV IERA

she contrived to have a cottage bu i l t out of the ru ins forhersel f and for her husband

,who had sunk into dotage .

The brother of the great orator and of L ou ise deCabris was A ndré Boniface

,Deputy to the Estates

General for the nobi l ity of L imoges . His excesses attable

,and his corpu lence

,procured for him the nick

name of Mi rabeau Tonneau . Gabriel Honoré repri

manded him for ascending the t ribune when he wasdrunk .

“Why ,

” he repl ied,

“ you have monopol ised al lthe vices Of the fam ily, and have left but this one tome.

” “ I n any other fami ly bu t ours ,” he said

,

“ I wouldpass as a disgrace . I n m ine

,I am its most respectable

member.” He em igrated to Germany. An epigramwas composed onhim

L’horreur de 1’ can, 1’ amour du vin

Le re tiendront au b ord du Rhin.

”

Grasse, as al ready said , i s an admirable centre for excursions, and no excursion i s finer than that up the Gorgeof the Loup. I t i s not often that commercial enterpriseadds to picturesqueness of scene ; but this i t has at theentrance to the Gorge. There the rai lway makes a boldsweep over a real ly beautifu l viaduct, this i tsel f anadd it ion to the scene. But further

,i n o rder to supply

electri c force to N i ce for i ts trams and l ighting, a canalhas been bored in the precipice on the right bank ofthe

L oup , at a great elevat ion , to bring the water from anupper fal l

,so as

,by means of a turbine

,to accumulate

the requ ired power ; and the fal ls of this stream at theOpen ing ofthe ravine are of great beauty.

I t i s hard to dec ide which i s most beautiful,the view

of the mouth of the ravine, with the waterfal l foam ingdown the cl i ff beside it , as seen from the hi l l -s ide as the

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1 74 THE R I V IERA

a cruc ifix , bathed in golden sunl ight . Below,where it

can root itself, i s flowering laurestinu s.Farther up, after a success ion Of magnificent scenes ,

one drops upon a l ittle house,where trout can be eaten

,

lying behind a waterfal l ; and to assist the visitor inreaching i t, the proprietor runs out witha b ig umbrel lato protect him from the torrent d issolved into rain.

Further up the ravine come other and finer leaps of

water,the main stream Ofthe L oup

,i n maddest gambol

of youth ; and over al l flash out gleams of the eternalsnows .Le Bar has a painting in the church , represent ing a

Dance Macabre ; i t i s , like al l other such dances , of thefifteenth century. I t represents Death armed with hisbow among a party ofdancers . S ome are dying,

andthei r sou ls are leaving thei r bod ies . The picture i saccompanied by a long Provencal inscription .

H igh above the entrance to the Gorge of the L oupstands the vi l lage ofGourdon , on the l imestone terrace.

The on ly spring water the plaCe was suppl ied withcame from a fountain in a cave in the face Of a sheerprecipice

,reached by a thread of path

,a foot to eighteen

inches wide,along the cl i ff

,and this , moreover, i nter

rup ted by a rift, usual ly crossed by a plank . But notinfrequently this plank fell

,or was carried away. Then

those in quest ofwater leaped the gap , went on to thecave

,fi l led their pitchers

,and returned the same way,

springing over the interval , where a fal se step wouldentai l certain death .

A t Mouans S artoux, between Grasse and Cannes ,s tood the castle of a grim Huguenot S eigneur. The

church was under the patronage of the Chapter

ofG rasse. The S ieur Reinaud invited two Calvin ist

THE S IEUR RE INAUD 1 75

ministers to his castle. I n 1 572 , when the curé ofMouans had summoned a friar to help him for Christmas Day, and to preach, as he himsel f was a poorspe aker

,- j ust after m idn ight the S ieur sent armed men

into the parsonage to threaten to k il l the friar i f hepreached next day. On Christmas morn ing, accordingly, the frightened man abstained , and the congregat ion had to go without instruction on the lessons of theday. Then the S ieur broke into the church when theparishioners were communicating, along with his men

at-arms and his m i ni sters, and made one of theselatter ascend the pulpit and harangue the congregation ,pour contumely on the Cathol ic Church , and denounceal l respect for holy seasons . The fel low further told thepeople that their fathers and mothers were burn ing inhel l-fire for not having revolted from the Church .

Next,the S ieu r renewed his threats that, shou ld

“ theCagot of a friar

” venture to address the parishioners inthe afternoon , he would do him to death . A t vespershe again invaded the church , and set up one of hispreachers to Speak to the people. He did the same onthe two fol lowing days. The Consuls of Mouansappealed to the Chapter of Grasse for protection

,but

they were incapable of afford ing them effectual aid .

The son of this S ieur, Pompée de Grasse, was morezealous even than his father, and d id not confine himselfto threats . He placed sword -edge and fi rebrand at thedisposal of the Huguenot cause. He was a terror tothe whole countryside . A t last

,one night, when he

was at Bormes , in the Maures , a party of Cathol ics ,d isguised in long cloaks

, managed to get into hiscast le , and kil led him and his brother

,and set fire to

the p lace. His widow, Susanne de V i l leneuve, and

1 76 THE R I V IERA

her two daughters, were al lowed to escape by boat toHy

’

eres .We are vastly mistaken i f we regard the parties in

the Wars of Rel igion as al l L amb on one s ide, and al lWolf on the o ther. A s a matter of fact

,except in the

Cevennes, the Reform was favo ured only by the lessernobil ity, not out of re ligious convictidn

,but out of a

spiri t of tu rbu lence bred by the long disorders Of theEngl isho ccupation of Aqu itaine, and the riots of theFree Companies . They resented the firm hand im

posed on them by the Crown,and they hop ed to ge t

pickings ou t of Church estates .The people general ly were not touched by the nega

tives of Calvin ism . A fter that Henry IV. j oined theChurch , most of the nobi l i ty and country gentryfol lowed his example— again , not from conviction

,but

because they saw that the game of resistance was up.

A t present, in the department of Var there areProtestants out of a population of I n A lpesMaritimes they number out ofnearly andmost of these sectaries are foreign impo rtations . I fthere had been deep-rooted convictions

,these would not

have been d iss ipated so certa in ly. I n the Cevennes,

Calvin ism holds on notwithstand ing persecution in thepast

,and in I reland is a reverse instance.

But to retu rn to S usanne de Vil leneuve .

I n 1 592 the Duke of S avoy was at Grasse, and re

so lved on chastis ing th is S usanne as a capita l i nfluenceamong the Raz ats. A ctual ly two women at this periodfomented the fury and bloodshed Of internecine stri fe.

The Baron de Vins , head of the L eaguers , had beenk il led in 1 589 outside Grasse. The Countess Christinede S au lt

,his s ister-in- law

,had been the headpiece, as he

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1 7s THE - R I V IERA

He d ied there A ugust 1 sth, 1 793.

A nother Grasse worthy is Fragonard , the painter,a mercer’s son , born at Grasse in 1 732 . He wasas clerk to a notary in early you th

,but wearied mortal

of the office, and in 1 748 was given to the painterBucher to be trained as an artist.He was i n ful l swing of favour and success in Paris

when the Revolution broke out.

Soon events became tragic, and then began the dusk ofthat bright and gentle life whichhad to him hitherto been onelong smile. Frago had no thought of flying from the storm

,

and republicanism always remained idealised in his mind.

But sadness oppressedhis heart, andhis friends shared it withhim. These old pensioners of the king, enriched by thearistocracy, could not see without regret the demolition of thecarrier: regime, and the ruin of their protectors, emigrated,imp risoned, hunted down . Without hating either royalty orJacobinism,

the little group of artists of p lebeian birthand

bourgeois manners suffered in silence the great revolution inwhichall their past went down, as the shadows of old age

deepened on them . Their art was out of fashion . Their

p iquant scenes, their dainty subjects, were no longer possiblein the midst of political and social convu lsions, and a fewyears sufficed to convert the respect of yesterday into the con

temp t of tod ay. Eighty years must pass before taste and

justice could bring men back to love the charming Frenchschool of 1 770, to understand its importance in the history of

the national genius, so as to induce the digging of its relicsforthfrom under the Cinders of the Revolution, the empire,and the bourgeois royalty.

” 1

A cu riously smal l l i fe must have been that of

these l i ttle towns under the anw’

en regime, when the

1 Le: Grand: A rtistes, Fragonard, par C. MAUCLAIR , Paris

THE FLOWERS OF GRAS SE 1 79

time of warfare was over. I t was made up of pettyquarrels

,of scandals and gossip. Even in the cathedral ,

the bishop and the dean and the chapter were at loggerheads over the merest trifles— whether two or three coup sOf the censer should be given to the bishop, whethera b ow to him should extend to the hams of thecanons . Perhaps the funniest quarrel was about thepatronage Of the diocese. The

‘ bishop Issued a pastoral

,in which he announced that he had constituted

S . Honoratus the patron Of the clergy Of Grasse,and

did not say “ with the assent of the chapter.” Where

upon the incensed chapter cut the name of Honoratus

out of their calendar,and refused to celebrate his

fest ival . Some of the bishops were engaged in ince ssant strife. When one d ied, to him might be appl iedthe epigram written on Clement X I . :

“ A vermibus terrae consumendus in tumulo ,A vermibus ecclesiae j am consump tus in throno .

The happy little town of Grasse, says L enthéric, seemsto be the very home of flowers and perfumes .

'

Its forests orOlives furnish the finest and sweetest oil of Provence ; itsgroves of oranges and lemons yield at the same time flowersin abundance and fruit in maturity. About it are roses, jessamine, mint, heliotrope, Parma violets, mignonette, cu ltivatedover wide tracts, as are also everywhere the common po therbs. The transformation of these natural products into

perfumery has become the predominant industry of the district ; and the n eighbourhood Of the Alps allows of theaddition to this domestic flora of a thousandwild flowers and

herbs— thyme, lavender, rosemary— all to be gathered closeat hand.

”

CHAPTER X I I

CANNES

History— JEgitna—Quintus Opimus—Admiral Matthews takes Ile Ste .

Marguerite—La Californie—Climate—S . Cassien—Arluc— LegendLa Napoule

—Antibes— The Terpon stone— Cult of rude stones

Utriculares—Lerins—Ste . Marguerite—The Man in the Iron Mask

Mattioli—Fab ricated pedigree for Napoleon—Marshal Baz aine : hisescape

—S . Honorat—The stand made against PredestinarianismS . Augustine— L erins a home of culture—Decay— SuppressedSprings offreshwater in the sea.

ANNES does not possess much Of a history. I twas but a fishing vil lage occupying a rock above

a l ittle port,bu ilt about a ru ined castle and a church

,

when “ i nvented by L ord Brougham ,as al ready re

lated .

I ts history may be summed up shortly. Old Cannespossibly occupies the s ite of the L igurian town ofz’Egitna, destroyed B .C . 1 54 by the Consu l Quin tusOpimus. The L igurian natives had annoyed the Greeksettlers and traders on the coast , who were monopol is ingtheir delectable seats

,and the Greeks complained to

Rome Of their i l l -humour and rough deeds . Opimus

was sent to their aid ; he subdued the natives withoutmuch trouble

,and was accorded a triumph , which meant

the lead ing of a train of captives in chains behind hischariot through Rome

,fol lowed by the butchery of the

180

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JENK INS ’

S EAR 1 8 1

prisoners,whose carcases were thrown down the Gemo

n ian stairs,and drawn by hooks to the T iber. Opimus

was notorious for his riotous l iving, and for h is brutal ity.

He was as handsome as he was infamous— “

formosus

lzomo et famosas .

” Cicero speaks of his d isreputablel ife

,and records a jest he made. The Romans gave

n itna to the c i ti zens of Marsei l les . I n the tenthcentury it pertained to the abbey of L erins, and inthe Middle Ages maintained incessant contest with thetyrann ical abbots

,in efforts to Obtain municipal free

dom . Not till 1 788— the year before the Revolut iond id the town b ecome free from i ts ecclesiast ical masters .From Cannes in 1 580 the plague spread which

ravaged Provence. I t was brought there by a ship fromthe L evant. To plague succeeded war. I n 1 746 Cannessuccumbed to the Piedmontese and German forces thathad crossed the Var. A fter taking and sacking Cannes ,where they got l ittle beyond fishing-nets

,they plundered

Grasse.

A l ittle before this Admiral Matthews,who had taken

Ventimigl ia, captured the I le S te . Marguerite. The warwhich led to the blockad ing of the L igurian coast bythe Engl ish was occasioned by a trifle .

I n 1 738 the Engl ish were thrown into a paroxysm ofind ignat ion by a tale that circulated , which was characterised by Burke as “ The Fable of Jenkins ’s Ear.

”

Jenkins was master of a smal l trading sloop in Jamaica,which seven years previously had been overhauled by aS pan ish coastguard boat. The captain , disappointed atfinding nothing contraband in the vessel , tore off one of

Jenkins ’s ears, and bade him carry it to King George,and inform his Britannic Majesty that i f he shou ldcome that way he would serve him in the same manner.

1 8 2 THE "R I V IERA

This ear Jenkins carried about with him wrapped up incotton wool . For seven years J enkins kept his ear, andproduced it in taverns and to al l he met

,as an Instance

of the indignities to which freeborn Britons were exposedat the hands of S pain . Ofcourse much correspondencetook place between the two governments re lative to thisbi t of dried ear

,but not t i l l 1 737 was he cal led before a

comm i ttee Ofthe House of Commons,when he appeared

at the bar,exhibited his ear

,that looked l ike a dried

mushroom or a truffle. War was proclaimed amidst

great rejoic ing among the Engl ish. Church bel ls wererung. Walpole said bitterly ,

“ Y ou are ringing you rbel l s now ; before long you wil l be wringing yourhands .”

The Engl ish fleet in the Mediterranean blockaded theports Of S pain . But the death Of Charl es of A ustriai n the fol lowing year led to a general scramble to ge thold Of portions of his vast possess ions

,and the war

assumed a more compl icated character. The Spaniards,assisted by the French , landed on the I tal ian coasts,and Admiral Matthews was sen t to drive them them e.The story of Jenkins and his ear had roused al l

England . Pulteney declared that Engl and needed no

al l ies— that Jenkins ’s story alone would raise volunteersanywhere. I t was

,however

,more than hinted at the

t ime,that Jenkins ‘had lost his ear in the pil lory

,and

not through the violence of a Spanish custom -houseOfl

'

icer.

The war fizzled out. Matthews was badly servedwith men and ships from England , and the I le of S te .

Marguerite was speed i ly abandoned .

Compared with N ice,Cannes enjoys certain advan

tages . I t i s less towny and commercial . I t does not

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1 84 THE R I V IERA

slow to give up its heat, and whichbathes this coast with an atmosphere ever temperate. The mean temperature is superiorto those of Nice, Genoa, Florence, Pisa, Rome, and evenofNap les ; it never falls below freezing point, and never risesas highas in most of the towns OfEurope.

This equilibrium Of temperature is manifest in the simultaneous development of vegetations apparently contradictory .

At Cannes, above every spot on the coast of Provence, thevegetations of opposite climes melt into one another in anadmirable promiscuity . The landscape is veritably unique,and one feels there as if one were transported into a vastconservatory, in whichartificially are united growths, the mostdifferent in character. The p lain is coveredwith oranges andlemons, from among whichshoot up at intervals the fans of

palms trees and the spikes of aloes . The hills are crownedwithumbrella p ines , whose majestic heads recall classic sitesin the Roman campagna. In the background of the pictureare dark and dense forests of pines, like a gloomy draperyabove which rise the pure and gleamingheights of the Alpsin their eternal snows . Thus

,as in a single framework, one

can see grouped together the great conifers of the north, theolives of Provence, the golden fru its of the Balearic Isles, theOleanders of Asia Minor, and the thorny vegetation of theAlgerian Tell .

I must , however, i n al l fairness , add , as a qual ificationto this pictu re

,that i n the early months of 1905, frost

and hai l d id so smite and blast the oranges , the lemons ,the eucalyptus of the plain of the S iagne, that the gl oryof the glossy leaves was gone , the country had assumedthe aspect of a withered orchard . The golden fruit wereshed

,and the leaves were bleached and pendant

I f Cannes has gone up in the world,her neighbours

have gone down . About four m i les from Cannes , i n thePlain of the S iagne, Is an outcrop of the Esterel red

HERM ITS 1 85

sandstone , crowned by magnificent pines, cypresses , corktrees and i lexes

,that embower a chapel of S . Cassien

and a farm . Here, ti l l recently, l ived a hermit. These

gentry are becom ing scarce. Possibly the prognostication of M . Anselme Benoit, in Ju les Fabre ’s novelM ore Uncle Celestz

'

n, is accompl ishing i tself :

Va au diable avec tes médailles et tes chapelets. Je te le

p rédis depuis longtemp s : a force d’

emb rasser les filles, tu

finiras par embrasser les gendarmes au detour de quelquechemin .

I n 166 1 Bishop Godeaufound a vagabond hermit atS . Jeanette

,and tried in vain to d islodge him ; but the

man hung on,and Godeau found him st i l l there in 1667 .

T hese men pick up a subsistence by the sale Ofsacredmetals, pictures , scapulars, rosaries ; sometimes manufacturing the latter themselves . Very often they aresimply lazy loons who can subsist on such sales andoccasional alms ; but some have been as great scampsas Jacop o Rusca in Fabre

’s del ightfu l story— which isa graphic picture of country life and country people inthe South, ful l Of del ic ious word paint ing.

Formerly S . Cassien was the fortress to the town ofA rluc . Castle and town have d isappeared whol ly.

A rluc,A ra luez

'

sl as the place i s called in Old deeds,

was a shrine in a sacred wood . The Provencal Troubadour Raymond Ferand tel ls a story Of i t.Here l ived once on a time a sorcerer named Cloaster ;

he had an altar in the wood, at which he practised al lkinds of There was a bridge over the S iagnecrossed by the peop l e who came there to worsh ip .

Now S . Nazarius was abbot of L erins . One day, a

1 A fantastic derivation. Actually, Arluc is By the Mere .

1 86 THE R IV IERA

youth named Ambrose was sacrific ing to idols at A rluc,

when the devi ls laid hold Ofhim,raised him i n the air,

and flew away with him,i n spite of al l his protests and

k icks,to convey him to hel l . But as they were thus

transporting him over the is land of L erins,Ambrose

heard the chanting of the monks , and ,

he cried out toS . Honorat to help him. Then the devi l s let go , andhe came fluttering down l ike a feat her into the m idst ofthe C loister Of L erins, where S . Naz arius received him ;and thenceforth Ambrose l ived with the monks as a

good Christian .

The L erins Chron icle tel l s u s that the Abbot Nazariusdestroyed a temp le of Venus that was at A rluc

,and

bu il t a church on i ts s i te,which he dedicated to

S . S tephen in A .D. 6 16,and attached to i t a convent

of women . But in 730 the Saracens destroyed churchand convent and town

,and sacked L erins , where they

massacred the abbot and five hundred ofhis monks .The town ofA rluc was rebu i l t by Pepin le Bref, but

in 890 the S aracens again destroyed i t . I t againstruggled in to existence, bu t was final ly utterly ru inedand effaced by the Tard -Venus in 1 36 1 , under theirchief

,who cal led himsel f “ The Enemy ofMan . These

Tard-Venus were one of the Free Companies thatravaged the country , glean ing after others had reaped .

The chapel was rebu i l t , and when given to the abbeyof S . Victor at Marsei l les, was ded icated to S . Cassien .

The fete is on Ju ly 2 3rd ; rel igious services take placein the morning and a . pleasu re fai r and merrymakingin the afternoon .

A pretty watering place i s La Napoule, that onceenjoyed a prosperity of which Cannes had no thought.I t was the Roman station Ad Horea

,where vast stores

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1 88 THE R IV IERA

Greek Antipolis, the town over against Nicaea, at thefarther side

’

ofthe bay.

A lmost al l Of the monuments be aring Greek in

scrip tions t hat have been found in such numbers inProvence be long to a date after the Roman annexation .

But this i s not the case with regard to a curious inscription d iscovered at Antibes on a black boulder,egg-shaped , of d iorite, a kind of

'

basalt. This‘

stone

had no shaping given to i t by the hand of man,but

on i t was cut in archaic characters,this inscription

I am Terpon, servant of the august goddess Aphrodite ;may Cypris reward withher favours those who erected mehere.

What does this mean ? How could the stone beTerpon, a servant of the Goddess of Love ?I t would seem to have been one of those mysteriou s

sacred stones which received worship from the mostremote ages , a form ofworship belonging to the earl iest

people ofwhom anything is known . This cult of. rudeunshapen stones

,very general ly black, prevai led among

the Phoen ic ians i t forced i ts way into the worship of

the I srael ites . Such stones were set up even in thetemple of Jehovah by some Of the kings , who incl inedto the supersti tions ofthe Canaan ites . The worship hadso stronga hold on the A rabs that Mohammed cou ld notexti rpate it

,and the Black S tone of Mecca sti l l receives

the veneration of the faithfu l . I t forced its way intothe rel igion of the ancient Greeks , and though qu iteincongruous with their mythology, held i ts own to the

last.Prudentius

,the Christ ian poet (d ied about 4 10) shows

us how strong was the devot ion , even in his day.

CULT OF’

RUDE STONES 1 89

His first food was the sacred meal , his earliest sight thesacred candles, and the family gods growing black withholyoil. H e saw his mother pale at her prayers before the holystone

,andhe, too , wou ld be lifted by his nurse to kiss it inhis

turn .

”

(Cont. Symmaelzum. )

I t has been so tough that it i s not exti rpated yet.I n 1 877 a correspondent of the Society of A nthro

pology at Paris wrote about the worship as stil l prevai ling i n the val leys of the Pyrenees .

One comes across these sacred stones most usually nearfountains. They are roughblocks of porphyroid, or amphibolite granite, left on the mountain side by glacial action.

They are almost invariably shapeless, and rarely present anyfeatures that can distinguish them from other great stonesstrewn about. One might pass them by unnoticed but for thelocal traditions that attachto them and the veneration withwhich they are regarded by the natives. In vain do the

priests preachagainst them . They have utterly failed to drivethe superstition from the hearts of their peop le. In vain dothey get them smashed up secretly, in hopes of thereby destroying these vestiges of paganism especially do they use

their efforts against suchas serve as meeting-

p laces to youngmen and girls . . The natives, when they come on the workmenengaged in the destruction, break out into riot, and stop thework. When they cannot do this, then they collect the fragments, rep lace them,

and continue to surround them withveneration . It is necessary to disperse the debris of the HolyStone to put an end to the cult ; but even then, the p lacewhere it stood is regarded as sacred, and sometimes the clergyp lant a cross there, as the only means ofturning the traditionalreverence of the spot into a new direction.

”

Whether this rel igion of the black stone of Antibe s

goes back to Phoenician or to Ligurian religion one can

1 90 THE . R IV IERA

not say— probably both Phoen ician colonist and L iguriannative shared the same devo tion to rude blocks ofstone.

I n S cotland , i n I reland,i n Cornwal l

,i n Brittany

,

among the graves ofthe dead of the Bronze Age , almostinvariably a piece of white quartz or a j ade weapon isfound . I ndeed

,the bit of quartz i s so constant that a

workman engaged in opening one-

of the barrows wi l lcry out , Now we are com ing on the bones ,

” when hesees it gleam . The bit Ofquartz o r j ade pertained to thesame category of ideas . I t was the rude stone protecting the dead , as the rude stone was the safeguard ofthe l iving, the Obj ect of worship in l ife

,of hope

,of

confidence in death .

A t A ntibes,i n the wal l of the HOtel de Vi l le

,i s the

stone with the inscription,already spoken of

,to the poor

l i tt le dancing boy Of twelve, from the North . I n themuseum i s an inscription to the memory of a horse, byhis sorrowing master. Another shows that at Antibesthere was a corporation of Utriculares

,that is to say

,of

boatmen who navigated the sea in vessels sustained bybladders . These were common enough on the lagoonsand the rivers

,but exceptional on the coast.

Perhaps the most interesting excurs ion that can bemade from Cannes is to the is les of L e rins . Ofthese thereare two— S te . Marguerite and S . Honorat— the latterformerly the seat of the great school and monastery of

L erins. The i s lands take thei r name from some mythic

L ero , of whose story nothing i s known ; but Pl iny informsu s that there had once been a town named V ergoanum

s ituated on one Of them which had disappeared beforethe Christian era, and of which no traces remained .

That S te . Marguerite was occupied by Greeks and

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THE IRON MASK 1 9 1

Romans is testified by the finding there Of a bi l ingualinscription . But whatever rel ics ofstructures may havebe en left by its old masters have been used up again andagain from mediaeval t imes down to the present. The

fortress now standing i s a barrack . I t was buil t byR ichel ieu , considerably enlarged by the Spaniards whenthey had possess ion Of the island , and then transformedafter the plans of Vauban . The fortress was employedmainly as a m i l i tary or S tate prison .

The most celebrated of its prisoners , or at least himabou t whom most has been written , was the Man of theI ron Mask . I t was due to Voltai re that the storyobtained such currency and excited so keen an interest.I n his Age of L ouis X I V. ,

publ ished in 1 7 5 1 , hewrote

Some months after the deathof Maz arin an event happened whichis without a paralle l in history. Moreover

,and

this is no t less remarkable, the event has been passed over insilence by every historian. There was sent withthe utmostsecrecy to the castle ofthe Isles ofSte . Marguerite, in the Seaof Provence, a prisoner unknown , of a stature above theaverage, young, andwithfeatures of rare nobility and beauty .

On the way the prisoner wore a mask, the chin-

piece of whichwas furnishedwithsprings ofsteel, so that he cou ld eatwithou tremovingit. Order had been given to kill him ifhe venturedto uncover. H e remained at the Isles until a trusted Officer

,

Saint Mars by name, Governor of Pignerol, having been ap

pointed in 1 690 to the command of the Bastille, came to

Ste . Marguerite to fetchhim, and bore him thence— always inhis mask— to the Bastille. Before his removal he was seen inthe isle by the Marquis de Louvois, who remained standingwhile he spoke to him with a consideration savouring of

respect. In the Bastille the unknown was as well bestowed as

was possible in that p lace, and nothing that he asked for was

1 92‘

THE R IV IERA

refused him. He had a passion for lace and fine linen ; b eamused himself witha guitar ; and his table was furnishedwiththe best. The governor rarely sat down in his presence.

An old doctor of the Bastille, who had often attended thisinteresting prisoner, said that, althoughhe had , examined histongue and the rest of his body, he had never seen his face.

He was admirablymade, said the doctor, and'his skin was ofabrownishtint. H e spoke charmingly, witha voice of a deep lyimpressive quality, never comp laining ofhis lot, and neverlettingit be guessed who he was. This unknown captive diedin 1 703 , and was buried by night in the parishof S. Paul .What is doubly astonishing is this : that when he was sent toSte . Marguerite there did not disappear from Europe any personage of note. But Observe whathappenedwithin a few daysof his arrival at the

'

isle. The governor himself laid the

prisoner’s table and then withdrew and locked the door. One

day the prisoner wrote somethingwitha knife on a silver p lateand threw the p late out of the window towards a boat on theshore, almost at the foot of the tower. A fisherman to whomthe boat belonged p icked up the p late and carried it to the

governor, who , surprised beyond measure, asked the manHave you readwhat is written on this p late, andhas any oneseen it in your hands ? ’ I cannot read,

’ answered the fisher

man ‘I have only just found it, and no one else has seen it.’

H e was detained until the governor had made sure that hecould not read, and that no other person had seen the p late.

‘Go,

’ he then said.

‘It is well for you that you cannotread .

How Voltai re cou ld describe the prisoner as “ withfeatures ofrare nobi l i ty and beauty,

” when he was invariably masked

,so that no one could see his face, i s cer

tainly remarkable.When Voltaire found that this story had created a

sensation,he vouchsafed a solu tion to it . “ The I ron

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1 94 THE R IV IERA

absurd to obtain credence,if ever proposed t o Bona

parte . I n the M emorial de S ainte Helene al lusion ismade to this .

Conversation turned on the Mask of Iron,and all that

had been said on the subject by Voltaire, Dutens, etc., and

what was found in the M e’

moz'

res of Richelieu was passed inreview. These made him, as is well known, to be the twinbrother of Louis XIV . , and his elder. Then some one (probably Count de Las Casas) added that on studyinggenealogicaltrees

,it had been seriously shown that he , Napoleon, was the

lineal descendant of the Man in the Iron Mask, consequentlylegitimate heir to Lou is X I I I . and to Henry IV. in p referenceto Louis XIV . and his posterity. The Emperor rep lied thathe had, in fact, heard this, and added that human credu lityand love of the marvellous was capable of believing anythingthat it would have been quite possible to establishthis to thesatisfaction of the multitude, and that there would not havelacked men in the senate capable of producing the requisitedemonstrations, and these the men who later turned againsthim when they saw that he was unfortunate.

“ Then we went on to discuss the particu lars of the fable.

The governor Of the isle of Ste . Marguerite at the time, so itwas said, the man to whose care the Iron Mask was confided,was called M. de Bonpart, a very remarkable fact. This manhad a daughter. The youngpeop le saw eachother and loved .

The Governor thereupon communicatedwiththe Court ; andit was there decided that no great inconvenience could arise ifthe unfortunate man were suffered to find in love some alleviation ofhis m isfortunes. Accordingly M . de Bonpart had themmarried .

“ H e who related this turned red when the facts were dis

puted. H e said that the marriage could be verified by insp ection of the register of a certain parishin Marseilles, whichhe

named. He added that the children born of this marriage

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196 T HE . R IV IERA

th is desert ion was due to himsel f or to o rders receivedfrom Napoleon is not known . A fter that

,for some time

nothing was heard of him ,but on the break ing out. of

the war with Pruss ia and Germany he was appointed tothe command of the Third A rmy Corps . How he surrendered Metz, with men

,on .October 2 3rd,

1 870, i s wel l known .

The questions asked of the jury “ at his trial werethese

1 . I s Marshal Bazaine gu i lty, on October 2 8th, 1 870,

of having s igned a capitu lation in the open field,

at the head Of his army ?2 . Was the consequence of this capitu lation

,that the

army laid down its arms ?

3 . Did Marshal Bazaine,both verbal ly and by writing,

correspond with the enemy,without having pre

viously done al l that was hi s duty ?

4 . I s Marshal Bazaine gu i lty , on October 2 8th, 1 870,of having capitulated to the enemy

,and de

l ivered over the fortress of Metz,over which he

had command,without having previously used

every effort in his power to defend it,and ex

hansted every means of hold ing out that layOpen to him in duty and honou r ?

The j ury answered Yes , unan imously, to al l thesequesti ons

,and he was sentenced to degradation and

death ; but the sentence of death was commuted toimprisonment for twenty years . On December 2 5thChristmas Day— 1 873 , he was taken from the T rianon

,

Versai l les,i n a close carriage, to Vil leneuve l

’

Etang,

and thence conveyed to A ntibes,where he was placed

on a steamboat and transferred to the fortress of S te.

THE ESCAPE'

1 97

Marguerite. On August loth, 1 874, the d irector of theprison

,named Marchi

,found Bazaine’s prison empty.

The first thought in France , when this news was spreadby the telegraph, was that he had been al lowed toescape by the conn ivance of MacMahon. Then detai l swere publ ished which put a romantic gloss on theevasion .

I n the fortress OfS te . Marguerite three rooms had been

p laced at the disposal of the p risoner, as wel l as a l ittl eterrace

,which latter was reached by a stone bridge with

a wal l on each side,and here stood a sentinel , on the

wal l ; but he could not see those who passed over thebridge nor what went on upon the terrace, as the latterwas partly covered with an awn ing against the sun .

On the terrace, to which led several steps from the bridge,the Marshal had formed for himsel f a l ittle garden ;and whilst work ing therein one day he found a choked

gutter intended for carrying Off rain -water from thecastle shoots ; i t was bored through the rock ; and heset to work to clear i t. By means of sympathetic inkhe was able to maintain a correspondence wi th his wifeand al l was planned for his escape.

On the evening determi ned on he asked his gaoler,who usual ly accompan ied him for a strol l on the terraceafter d inner

,to allow him to walk it alone

,and this was

read i ly permi tted .

A fter a whi le Bazaine Opened and slammed the gate,and the sentinel supposed that he had passed out of theterrace garden , on his way back to the prison . But thatthe Marshal , instead , had c leared the drain hole andsl ipped through , he could no t see

,because the awning

bid from him al l V iew of the terrace. I n the drain wasa rope , and this Bazaine let down the face of the rock ,

1 98 THE-

R I V IERA

making it fast to an iron bar crossing the conduit. Thedescent was for eighty feet. Below burnt a l ight , givinghim notice that his wife was there awaitinghim in a boat.The descent was not a l i ttle arduous

,and he scratched

and bruised h is knuckles and knees against the rock , asa high wind was blowing at the t ime. When he reachedthe bottom a voice across the water asked who wasthere

,and he struck a match and showed his face. The

boat cou ld no t come up under the cl iff,and he was

obl iged to pl unge into the water to reach i t. I n theboat were his Creole wi fe and h is nephew

,a Mexican

,

Don A lvarez de Rul l . Mme . Bazaine had been inGenoa from A ugust 3rd, and had there hired a pleasuresteam -yacht , the Baron R icasoli

,and in this she had

either remained in the harbour of Genoa or had gonecru ises i n i t

,and had penetrated more than once to the

Gulf of S aint Juan . A t La Croisette she and hernephew had been set ashore

,nominal ly that she might

look at a vi l la,that she pretended she had an idea of

renting. There they hired a boat , and in this theyrowed to the foot of the cl i ff under the foot of thefortress

,and awaited the arrival of the Marshal . NO

sooner was he in the boat than they rowed to the vessel ,which had al l steam up

,and started at ful l speed for

Genoa.

I n a letter wri tten by Mme. Bazaine to the FrenchMin ister ofthe I nterior, General Chabaud -L atour

,dated

A ugust 1 6 th , she stated that she had had no confederates . Bazaine also made the same assert ion in a letterfrom Cologne. But no one bel ieved this except theU ltramontane ed itor of the Univers , who attributed thehappy escape to the merits of a consecrated scapularand a thread of the Blessed Virgin ’s smock , which

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200 THE -

‘

R I V IERA

clumps of pines and whose battered tower hardlyattract the attention of the tourists

,played a consider

ab l e part, through long centuries,i n the history of

intel lectual and rel igious growth in Europe . I n 375S . Honoratus founded there his rel igious commun ity,and gro uped about him a l i ttle family of earnest andintel lectual men . I n a few years i t grew in power, notthe power of the sword

,but of brain and earnestness of

purpose ; and this island saved Western Christendomfrom a grave d isaster.The Mussulman has a legend of Creation . A cco rd ing

to that, when God was creating man , He took a pelletof clay in His left hand

,moulded it i nto human shape

,

cast i t as ide to the left , and said , This goes to hel l , andwhat care I ? ” I n l ike manner He worked another bal lof clay with His right hand ; flung that aside ,

and said,

“ And this goes to heaven , and what care I ?”

Now the master mind of Western Christendom ,

A ugustine of H ippo, had devised the same theory ofcaprice in the Most H igh , predestinating to good or i l lwithou t reason

,and that before Mohammed was born .

D ivine Grace,he held

,was paramount and i rresistible,

carrying man to happiness or damnation without manbeing able to determ i ne his course one way or the other.Man

,accord ing to Augustine, was a mere

“ L ump ” ofsin

,damnable

,utterly damnable. But God , i n His in

scru table providence,ind istingu ishable from wantonness ,

chose to elect some to weal,and leave the rest to woe.

This was a doctrine that d id away with the necessityof man making the smallest endeavour after righteousness

,from exercis ing the least self-control ; of man

feel ing the sl ightest compunction after committing thegrossest s ins . Augustine sent his treatise to Abbot

S . AUGUST INE 20 1

Valentine of Adrume tium. Valentine, in calm sel fcomplacency, s itting among the ashes of dead lusts ,highly approved of this scheme of Predestination . Buta monk

,Fel ix

,when he heard it read , sprang to his

feet and uttered his protest. This protest was reportedto Augustine, who boi led over with bad temper at anyOpposition and he wrote a violent rej oinder “ On Graceand Freewi ll

,

” in which he insisted again on hisdoctrine of Fatal ism.

The theses of Augustine reached Le rins, the nurseryof the Bishops of Gaul

,and were read there with

indignation and d isgust . The monks drew up a replyto A ugustine that was temperate in tone and ,

sound inargument. Grace

,they said

,was m ighty, but man had

freewill,and cou ld respond to it or rebel against i t.

Augustine answered . He attempted to browbeatthese insignificant monks and clergy on a petty is leti n the sea . But they were not men to be intimidatedby his great name and intel lectual powers , not even byhis s incere p iety.

They argued that if his doctrine were true, then farewel l for ever and a day to al l teaching of Christianmoral ity. Man was but a cloud

,blown about by the

wind , where the wind l isted to carry it.But for these stubborn monks Of L erins i t i s poss ible

enough that Western Christendom would have accepteda kismet as fatal as that ofMohammedan ism

,and that

,

i ndeed , i t would have d iffered in name and certain outside trimmings only from the Moslem religion . Romewas much inc l ined to accept A ugustine

’s view,and give

i t definite sanction . But the Gau l ish bishops,bred in

the nursery of L erins,would not hear Of this . F inal ly

,

i n the Counci l of Orange, i n 529, they laid down the

202 THE R I V IERA

main principle : “We do not bel ieve,they boldly said

,

“ that God has predest ined any men to be evi l .”

S . Patrick , the apostle of I reland , was at one t ime apupi l at L erins. The “ Confessions of Augustine

” areindeed a beauti ful picture of the work ings of a humansoul ; but not more tender and beautifu l than thatrevelation of a noble heart given to us in the

“ Confession Of Patrick .

”

L erins— that is , especial ly S aint Honorat— was therefuge of the intel lect, the science, the l iterature, of ac ivi l i sed world going to pieces into utter wreckage.

A s Guizot wel l said

“ For culture of mind , one thing is requ isite, and'

that isquiet . When the social condition of the world is in con

vulsion, and all about is barbarity and misery, then studysuffers, is neglected and declines . Taste for truth, the sentiment for what is beautiful, are p lants as delicate as they arenoble. For their cu ltivation a sweet atmosphere is necessary ;they bow their heads and are blighted by storm. Study

,

l iterature, intellectual activity, could not battle against

general discouragement, universal disaster ; they must have aholdfast somewhere, attachthemselves to popular convictions,or perish. The Christian religion furnished them with themeans of living. By allying themselves to that, philosophyand literature were saved from the ru in that menaced them.

One may say, without exaggeration, that the human m ind,p roscribed, storm-tossed, found its only possible refuge inchurches and monasteries. It clung as a supp liant to the

altars, and p leaded to be allowed to l ive under their shelter,and at their service, til l better times should arrive, when theywould expand in the open air.

L erins su ffered repeated ly and frightful ly from theSaracens . Again and again was i t ravaged . I n 7 2 5,

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FRESH -WATER S PR INGS 2 9 3

Porcarius, the abbot, and five hundred monks, werebutchered by the Moors .The interesting fortress , with its C loister and quad

rangle in the centre, was erected by the monks as aplace of refuge from the Moors and A lgerine pirates .But worse times were in store, when the Crown came

to look on the great abbeys as fiefs, to be given in com

wzena’am to laymen

,to bastards

,to favourites , to harlots ,

who might enjoy the revenues and ignore the duties .Natural ly enough , i n such a cond it ion of affai rs, L erinsdeclined . I t became a ‘place to which younger sonswere relegated, vicious monks were banished ; i t wasresolved into a basti l le for evi ldoers

,and sank to so low

an ebb that,as a scandal , the abbey was suppressed the

year be fore the Revolution came,and swept al l monastic

institutions away.

To the west of the Ile S te . Marguerite, i n the seapours up a copious spring of fresh water. When thesurface of the sea i s calm

,the upflow can be easi ly

distinguished by the undulations . There are other suchsp rings in the Gulf of Jouan , near Antibes , also at themouth of the Var ; near the shore at Portissol, west ofS . Nazaire ; another again near Bandol . I n 1 838 , aM . Bazin tapped this latter when sinking a wel l atCadi

’

ere , and such an abundance of water poured forththat the wel l had to be abandoned . Off Cassis i s avery cons iderable Spring i n the sea , so strong that i tcarries floating bodies for a couple of miles from i tssource. But the largest of al l i s in the Gu l f of Spezz ia,

and is cal led La Pol la . This has been enclosed by theI tal ian governmen t , and vessels supply themselves withfresh water from it.The rain which fal ls on the l imestone causses

,that

204 THE R IV IERA

fo rm the terrace to the Maritime A l ps,i s at once

absorbed,and descend s through fissu res to deep

channels , where the accumulatedwater flows and breaksforth in what are local ly cal led four ,

Often in largevolume

,and feed the r ivers . S ometimes the stream s

drop into pot - holes these are cal led embues. TheS iagne has i ts source in the Place de la Cail le, anancient lake bed , but sinks , and comes forth feetbelow in the foux Of the S iagne. This river receivesthe S iagnole , which derives i ts water from a numberof these springs that spout out of the rock . But insome cases the rain -water s inks to a level stil l l ower

,and

then breaks forth in the sea itself.

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CHAPTER XI I I

N ICE

A shifted site—Ancient Nike —Cemenelium—History ofNice— Saracens

at Cap Ferrat—Bertrand de Balb—The barony of Beuil—The Castle

— Internecine strife—Truce -The marb le cross—Catherine SéguraneDestruction ofthe Castle—Annexation ofNice to France—CathedralChurchofthe Port—Massena—Garibaldi—GeneralMarceau—Rancher—Story of Collet— Cagnes— Painting by Carlone— Ez e— David

’

s

painting—Puget Teniers—Touet-de-Beuil.

ICE i s a town that has uneasi ly shifted its seatsome three or four times . Whether it were

directly settled from Phocoea or med iately from Marseil les

,we do not know . But a Greek city it was

,as its

name impl ies,N ike

, Vietooy ,speaking of a fight there,

engaged either against the Phoenicians , who resistedtheir settl ing into quarters already appropriated , or elseagainst the native L igurians .A nciently, the river Pai l lon flowed into the tiny bay

of Lympia,but it brought down so much rubble as to

threaten to choke it,and huge embankments of stone

were bui l t to divert the course Of the river to the fartherside of the calcareo us rock ofthe Chateau . These havebeen d iscovered in the process Of excavations in theR iquier quarter. When the Greeks se ttled here, theyfound the cond itions perfect for their requirements .The Port Of Lympia then extended in land to where

206 THE R IV IERA

i s now the rue du Pail lon . I t was flanked on the eastby the steep heights of Mont Boron , on the west by thecrag of the Chateau , which latter served as acropol isand was crowned by a temp l e ded icated probably toA rtemis. The s ite i s thought to be where now standsthe chapel of the S te . Suaire, which is square and on Old

foundations . The Phocoean town lay in the lap of theport of Lympia.

But when the province became Roman,then the town

o ccupied by the great fam i l ies of consu lar origin , theOfficial s of government, and al l the hangers-on, was atCemenelium,

now Cim iez,on the high ground above

modern N ice,and dom inating the ancient port. Here

had been an older L igurian fortified town , of whichsome remains exist in the huge blocks laid on oneanother without cement that formed the defending wal l ,and on top ofwhich the Romans bu i l t their ramparts .The ci tadel was at the extreme south point of theplateau . I n Cemenelium the principal monuments werethe palace of the governor of the province

,a temple

ofD iana, another ofApol lo, an amphitheatre and baths .All have been destroyed and have d isappeared save thewreckage Of the amphitheatre, traversed by a road .

Roman sepulchral monuments, urns , mosaics, fragmentsof marble columns , statuettes , have been unearthed incons iderable numbers . The Phocoean colon ies established on the l ittoral of the Maritime A lps fel l intocomplete decay when the Romans occupied the country,and towards the end of the third century N i ce dwind ledto almost nothing.

I n 578 the Lombards , under the ferocious A lboin ,swept over the country and destroyed Cimiez and N ice.

The Franks drove back the Lombards i nto I taly.

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208 THE R IV IERA

Grimald i destroyed the Saracen citadel,and left of

i t nothing standing save the tower that remains to thisday. The captured Saracens were quartered in apo rt ion of N i ce sti l l cal led [on canton a

’ei S arrains , and

were employed by him in strengthen ing or rebu i ldingthe wal l s ofthe town .

To the S aracens are att ributed the subterraneanmagazines, or s i los, that are found

'

at S . Hospice, S . Jean ,

T rin ité-Victor,and elsewhere

,to contain the plunder

they acqu i red in their maraud ing expeditions . Theseare vaul ted over

,and are sti l l in some instances used

as c isterns or store places ; but the evidence that theywere the work of the Moors i s inconclus ive.Among those who assisted the Count of Provence

against the S aracens was one Bertrand de Balb s,and

in reward for his services he was given in fief thebarony of Beu il , a vast territory stretching from theEsteron to the A lps , and compris ing twenty—two townsand townlets . His descendants kept the barony til l1 3 1 5, when Wi l l iam de Balb s made himsel f so od iousto his vassals by his tyranny that they murdered him .

A brother Of the Grimald i of Monaco had married theo nly daughter of W i l l iam de Balb s

,and as there was

no son the fief passed to him, and he became thefounder ofthe family ofGrimald i of Beu i l . The baronyremained in the Grimald i family ti l l 162 1 , when i t wasun ited to the county of N ice.They ran , however, a chance of losing i t in 1 508 .

Towards the close of 1 507 , George Grimald i , Baron

of Beuil , his son John , A ugustine Grimald i , Bishop ofGrasse

,and N i colas Grimaldi

,seigneur of Antibes

,

formed a plot to deliver . over the county Of N ice toL ou is X I I . The Duke of Savoy was warned , and he

THE CASTLE 209

summoned George and his son to appear before him .

They repl ied with insolence and defied him,relying on

French support . But at that moment L ou is XI I . andthe Duke of S avoy had arranged their l i ttle quarrel ,and when John Grimaldi asked for aid from theGovernor of Provence

,he was refused . Meantime the

garrison of N i ce marched against Beui l . The castle,buil t on a height and surrounded .by strongwal ls , couldhave stood a long siege, when a tragic event put an endto the struggle. The Baron de Beui l was murdered byhis valet

,who cut his throat whilst shavinghim.

The Duke of S avoy outlawed John , the son , and

gave the barony to Honoré Grimald i, brother of George,who had steadi ly refused to be drawn into the conspiracy.

But to return to N ice.

I n 1 2 29 a party in the town revolted against theCount of Provence , and expel led those who were loyalto him. Thereupon Romeo de Vil leneuve marched onN i ce

,took the town , and set to work to strengthen the

fort ifications of the cast le,which in fu ture would control

i t . A t that time the castle consisted of a donjon,with

an enclosure that had four turrets at the angles. Out

side this Romeo buil t a strongwal l that enc losed withinthe area the cathedral and the houses of the nobil ity ;he cut deep fosses through the rock , and furn ished the

gates with drawbridges . L ater, after the invention ofpowder, the fortress was further transformed in 1 338 .

A fter the death of Joanna I . of Nap les, N ice took theside of Charles of Durazzo

,and in I 388 was besieged

by L ou is I I . of Anj ou . The Nicois, unable withouthelp to hold out against him,

Offered the town to

Amadeus , Duke of Savoy, and he entered and tookpossess ion .

P

2 10 THE R I V IERA

The desol ating wars of Charles V. and Francis I .made a desert of Provence. N i ce

,as a town of the

Duke of Savoy, met with only the temporary annoyance of the Spanish and German and I tal ian troopspass ing through i t to cross the Var. I n 1 538 PopePau l I I I . proposed a meetingbetween the two sovereignsat N i ce

,and he me t them there on June 1 8th

,1 535 ;

a tru ce was concluded,to last for ten years . A cross of

marble marks the spot where the conference took place.I t was thrown down in 1 793, i n the Revolutionaryperiod

,but was again set up some twenty years later.

Paul I I I . , i n proposing the meeting of the two rivalmonarchs

,had not only an eye to the wel fare of the

people of I taly,harassed by incessant and desolating

war,but also to the interest of his own family. He

had been elected Pope in 1 534, and at once createdA lexander, child of one of his i l legit imate sons , Card inalat the age of fourteen , A rchbishop of Anagn i whenthe boy was on ly fifteen

,and A rchbishop of Mont Real

and Patriarch ofJeru salem when aged sixteen . Another

grandson , Ranncio , he created A rchbishop of Napleswhen aged fourteen , and A rchbishop of Ravenna atthe age of n ineteen . Now,

when meeting the twosovereigns , he negotiated with Francis to have his

granddaughter united to a prince of the house ofValois ; but Francis procrastinated , and the marriaged id not take place . He was more successful in marrying his grandson O ctavio to Margaret of A ustria,natural daughter of Charles V.

But that Paul d id use his utmost endeavours to

obtain a truce Of ten years is shown by the testimony

Of the Venetian ambassador who was present at N iceon the occas ion

”

of the meeting. He cou ld find no

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2 1 2 THE R I V IERA

Pastorel l i, the author, merely says that a standard ofthe T urks was taken from the ensign by a cit izenessnamed Donna Maufaccia, who fought at the Tour desCai

‘

res , where were the Turkish batteries . A secondauthority

,i n 1654 , A nton io Fighier, says that the event

took place on the Feast of Our L ady i n A ugust ; thatthe woman seized the staff of the standard and flung i tin to the moat .S ome weeks later the Turks penetrated into the

town and carried Off prisoners to their gal leys ;but these were retaken by the S ic i l ian fleet .The war between Charles V. and Francis I . was

terminated by the T reaty of Crepy in 1 544. By it theHouse of S avoy recovered al l the places in the Duchytaken by the French . Duke Charles II I. ordered thecomplete restoration and remodel l ing of the defences ofthe town and castle. I n the wars Of L ouis X IV.

,N i ce

was attacked again and again , and in 1 706 was taken bythe Duke of Berwick . By order of L ou is

,the castle

was then completely destroyed by gunpowder. Thusd isappeared this noble fortress after twenty centuries ofexistence ; and now Of i t almost nothing remains . Bythe peace of Utrecht i n 1 7 1 3, N ice was restored toS avoy. I n 1 748 Charles Emanuel of Savoy had theport of Lympia cleared out and made serviceable. I thad been choked up for some centuries . I t was not ti l l1 860 that the county of N i ce was defin itely annexed toFrance.

.H itherto the Var had been the boundary b etween I taly and France

,now the del im itat ion is the

Torrent of S . L ou is . The natural demarcation is un

questionably the col of La T urbie and the Tete daChien

,

‘

and Monaco,about which more presently.

I have given but a meagre sketch Of the history of

MEN OF NOTE 2 1 3

N ice ; but the“

reader would have no patience with al lthe petty troubles— great to those who endured them— which affl icted N i ce and its vicin ity through manycenturies . Now i t enj oys peace

,and thrives, not only as

a city,doing a large business , but also as a vestibu le to

Monte Carl o . The cathedral,that once stood near the

castle on the rock,was demol ished in 1656, and the pre

sent building— a rococo construction in the barbarictaste Of that period— was erected below the rocky height.On December 1 6th

,the Bishop Dés iré de Palle tie r was

contemplating the dome that was in process of construct ion , when some of the material fel l on his head andki l led him. I n 1 705, on March 16th

,a bomb fel l in the

cathedral and exploded,ki l l ingmany people . I f it had

blown the whole church to atoms i t would have causedno loss to art.Curiously enough an accident happened of a some

what simi lar character to the church of the Port. Thedesign for this monstrosity was sent by a Turin architect . The cupola was to be of wood

,covered with lead .

But the clerk of the works,in carrying out the design ,

substituted stone for wood . The result was that, one

S unday morn ing, j ust after the consecrat ion of thechurch

,the cupola fel l in . Happily i t was during the

fi rst mass . The priest at the al tar,hearing a cracking

above him,bolted into the vestry. An old woman , who

was the sole assistant,fled into the porch

,and no l ives

were lost when the whole structure col lapsed .

N ice has produced some men of note— as Massena,“ L

’

enfant chéri de la victoire ” —whose real name wasMenasseh he was the son of a p etty Jewish taverner, andwas born in 1 756 . What a simmering cauldron that wasin Europe , which brought to the surface Bernadotte, the

2 1 4 THE R IV IERA

saddler’

s son I Murat issued from a l ittle publ ic house.

Auge reau , the chi ld of a domestic servant Massena,the

Hebrew waif and stray. Massena was gifted by naturewith a powerful frame of body

,and with indomitable re

solution . He was cons idered the most ski lful tacticianamong Napoleon

’s general s , and on the field of battlehe was remarkable for coolness . He ,had, moreover, theinval uable qual ity in a commander of not being dis

pirited through defeat. His faults were primarilyrapacity and avarice. I n I taly

,when commanding the

French army Of occupation,he “ behaved in such a

way,

” as M iot de Mel ito informs us,

“ that the Frenchtroops

,l eft without pay in the midst of the immense

r iches which he appropriated to himsel f,revolted

,and

refused to recognise his authority. His pilferings, .hisshameless avidity, tarn ished the laurels with which hehad covered himself.” He brought down on himsel frepeatedly the censu re ofNapoleon . But the greed wasborn i n the bone. He cou ld not keep his fingers Off

what was of money value, and m ight be turned intocoin .

When Bonaparte assumed the command in I taly, heemployed Massena actively on al l occas ions of importance

,and so justly appreciated the bri l l iancy and m i l i

tary talents he possessed , that he su rnamed him“ the

favoured child Of victory.

” I n 1 798 he was appointedto the command Of the army, which under GeneralBerthier was to

'

occupy Rome and the Papal S tates .

His appo intment was as d istasteful to the sold iers as tothe inhabitants of the subjected country, for they bothbe came victims of his insatiable avarice, and the mul tipl ied complaints made of his pecu lations at last forcedhim to resign the command and to return to Paris .

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2 1 6 THE RIV IERA

maintain his honours . He was created Duke of R ivol iand Prince of Essl ingen . But he was not grateful , andof al l the marshal s of France °he showed himself mosteager to ral ly to the Restoration and to recogniseL ou is XVI I I . He had sufficient keenness to see thatNapoleon ’s star was i n decl ine, and al l that he real lywas sol ic i tous for was to keep . hold of his hoardedtreasures . He died at R uel

,his country seat near Paris

,

i n 1 8 1 7 .

This upstart family st i l l flou rishes on the accumulatedplunder, and sti l l retains the t it les of Duke of R ivol iand P rince of E ssl ingen, bu t i s no longe r of theJewish persuas ion .

The great square at N ice i s cal led after Massena , butanother square bears a far more reputable name— thatOf Garibald i, who was also a native of N i ce, born thereon J uly 4th, 1 807 .

General Marceau ’s ashes rested for some years atN i ce. He fel l near Coblenz in 1 796, and his body wasburnt and transported

,as he had desired

,to N i ce

, to l i ebes ide the body of his s ister Emma , when it shouldbe her time to depart this l ife. She d ied at the age

of eighty-one in 1 834 , and was laid bes ide the ashesof her brother. Marceau had never been shown thesmal lest token of love by his mother

,and he had been

brought up- by his s ister, to whom he was devotedly

attached . His last words were : Je ne regrette qu’el le.

Je l u i dois cc que j e puis valoir.I t is a pity that his wishes were so far d isregarded

that in 1 889 his remains were d is interred and transferredto the Pantheon

,at Pari s .

N i ce has produced a poet,the Jasmin of this part of

Provence ; his name is Rancher, and he was born in

STORY OF COLLET 2 1 7

1 785, on July 2 o th, two months before due ; he was sosmal l that a bon-bon box was extemporised as hiscradle. Indeed

,i t was supposed that he was dead , and

he was to have been carried to bu rial in his bon -bonbox

,when his father

,who was a surgeon , stooping over

him,heard a faint sigh , and preparations for the funeral

were stopped . He became secretary to the Count deCe ssola

,pres ident of the Senate of N ice

,and then

under- secretary of the T ribunal Of Commerce, an Oflice

he retained t i l l his death in 1 843. He wrote songs andcomposed music to them ,

also a l ittle vaudevi l le,and a

poem La Nemai’

da,

” which was serio- com ic,and turned

on a local incident, a dispute between the beadles andsacristans of the church of S te . Francoise de Pau le.His l i ttle vaudevi l le led to his imprisonment . I t hadbeen composed for performance before King CharlesFel ix and his queen

,Marie Christine

,when they were

at N i ce at Christmas,1 829 . He ventured without

authorisation to introduce on the stage his nephew ,

aged n ine, dressed as a peasant , and to set him to p laya l i ttle piece on the violin . This had not been submittedto the proper authority and al lowed ; accordingly theCount de Faverger, Governor of N ice

,ordered the

incarceration of the audacious poet. But this bit ofred - tapism was too much

,and Ranche r was released

in a coup l e of hours . He revenged himsel f on the

governor by a satirical and burlesque song, that ranl ike wildfire through the town . A street in N ice bearsRancher’s name.

Nice was the scene of the sacri legious rascal ities of arogue, Collet, whose story, as he Op erated at Fréj us andat Dragu ignan as wel l as at N ice , may be told .

Collet was born at Bel ley,in the department of A ine

,

2 1 8 THE R IV IERA

of worthy and pious parents . He entered the armyafter having gone through a course of studies , andb ecame sub-l ieutenant in 1 796 ,

and was at the s iegeof Brescia. But , disgusted with mil itary service

,he

deserted and went to Rome. Whils t there he heardof the wreck of a merchant vessel off, Civita Vecchiaunder a young captain named Tolosant

,of Lyons , with

the loss of al l hands . A t once he saw his chance. He

forged papers , go t a ring cut with the Tolo sant arms ,and passed himsel f off as the captain

,who had escaped .

By th is means he deceived a worthy priest,who was

steward to Card inal Fesch ; and as the C ard inal wasacquainted with the fami ly of Tolosant

,he introduced

the soi-a’isant captain to him . The Card inal at once

insisted on Col let taking up h is abode with him ,and he

even presented him to the Pope,who gave the rascal his

apostol ic bened iction . As a friend of Cardinal Fesch ,Napoleon ’s kinsman

,and an inmate of his house , Col let

made the round Of the bankers of Rome, d iscussedwith them schemes for making money , and drew loansfrom them to the amount of francs . Then Col letwas invested with a charge to perform some eccles iast icalcommi ss ions in L ombardy. He left— d isappeared— justas suspic ions began to be entertained that he was notwhat he pretended to be

,and turned up at Mondovi .

There he gave himself out to be a gentleman Of means ,and he speedi ly ingratiated himself into the society ofthe young bloods there. A s Mondovi was a dul l town,he proposed to brisk i t up by the institution ofa theatreand by amateur performances . This propos ition wascordial ly accepted

,a comm i ttee was appointed , and

Col let was named costum ier ; he was to purchase acomplete theatrical wardrobe. All who were to act

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2 20 THE R IV IERA

mayo r returned to the ‘

.vil lage,carrying with him the

purchases ; and the architect departed to engage masonsand carpenters .No sooner was Col let left than he took post-horses

and departed for S trasburg. There he van ished . His

next appearance was in I taly,sh ifting.his quarters and

changing his costume repeatedly. A t S avona, on theR iviera

,he persuaded a banker

’

to let him havefrancs . Next he appeared at N i ce

,in a shovel hat

,a

purple cassock,and wearing a gold pectoral cross , as

Domin ic Pasqualini, Bishop of Manfredonia . He cal ledon the Bishop of N ice, showed him the bu l l of hisi n stitu tion

,forged by himsel f, and so completely de

ceived him ,that the bishop offered him the most cordial

welcome,showed him hospital ity

,took him i nto the

sem inary and asked him to examine the seminarists.Col let saw the ri sk he ran

,and evaded i t shrewdly.

Monse ignore ,” said he, I can see by the look of thei r

faces that they are a set of asses . I do not wish tohurt their feel ings by exposing their ignorance— I. beinga stranger .

”

“ Wel l , then , said the Bishop of N ice, “ i f you wil lno t examine them,

you shal l ordain them ; there arethirty- three to receive deacon ’s and sub-deacon

’

S'

orders

next Sunday.

”

Col let cou ld not refuse . A ccordingly, vested in ful l

pontificals , i n the Cathedral ofN i ce, he committed thissacri legiou s act.A fter this , not seeing his way to making much money

at N i ce,he departed

,changed his costume, and appeared

at Frej us as plen ipotentiary of the Emperor,an in

spector-general , charged with seeing to the equipmentofthe army of Catalon ia . He presented his credential s ,

STORY OF COLLET 2 2 1

which seemed to be in order ; he took a high hand , andrequired the head of the Gensdarmerie to furnish himwith a mounted escort to Draguignan , and he sent on anorderly before him to announce his purpose in vis itingthe town

,requ i ring proper lodgings and provisions to be

furn ished for him . Then he appeared at Dragu ignan ,with breast Covered with Orders , and there he formedhis staff. A retired captain became his aide-de-camp ;the son of the Sub -Prefect of Toulon he graciouslyreceived as his secretary ; he named two officers ofarti l lery

,one as paymaster, the other as his steward ;

and final ly,with a staff of twenty persons

,he went to

Marseil les,where he so imposed upon the authorities

that he was al lowed to draw francs from the

government treasury. Thence he went to Montpel l ier,

and there his star began to pale. One day, after havingreviewed the troops , he dined with the Préfet, to whomhe had promised the cordon of Grand Officer of theL egion of Honour, when , during the meal , the hOtel ofthe p réfe ture was surrounded by gensdarmes, a party Ofpol ice entered the d in ing- room

,and the Organ iser of the

A rmy of Catalonia was arrested and led to gaol . A ll

his staff shared his fate,but were released after an im

prisonment of twenty days .One day the Préfet was giving a dinner party, and , to

amuse his guests , offered to produce the prisoner whohad so befooled him and the rest of the good people ofMontpel l ier. A ccordingly he sent to the gaol for Collet,who expected every moment to be brought forth andshot. Three gensdarmes conducted Col let from pr i sonto the p réfeture , and til l the guests were ready to seehim he was thrust into an ante- room

,and two gensdarmes

were posted at the door.

2 2 2 THE R IVI ERA

Col let ’s qu ick e'

ye detected , lying in a corner, thewhite cap and apron of a cook , and a d ish ofcaramel onthe table . . In the twinkl ing of an eye he had dressedhimself as a cook , taken up the dish , k icked at the door,t i l l the gensdarmes opened and al lowed him to passfo rth between them they supposinghim to be the cook .

Col let sl ipped out of the house and Concealed - himsel fnext door. A hue and cry ensued; and the alarm bel lrang ; the gensdarmes gal loped along the roads abou tMontpel l ier

,and Col let looked on complacently from

the window,t i l l

,after fi fteen days

,the search for. him

was relaxed , and then he left the town .

A fter -having rambled about for a whi lei

without leavingtraces of his presence

,he reappeared in the department

of Tarn , where he presented himsel f before the superiorof the S chools of Christ ian Brothers , and informed himthat he was a gentleman of

'

private means and of adevout turn of soul , and that i t was h is des ire to found

a novit iate for the Brothers , and that he had a sum offrancs at his disposal for that purpose. Then he

vis ited a M . L aj us , a Toulouse merchant, and enteredinto neg otiation with him for the sale ofa house he had ,and he informed him that he was ex-sub-prefect of thedepartment of A ine . M . Lajus accompan ied him tothe house

,and al lowed Collet to order and see to the

carrying out of alterat ions,the pul l ing down of wal ls ,

his eye— before a sou had been paid of thest ipulated price. Then Col let returned to the motherhouse of the Christ ian Brothers and urged the d irectorto vis i t the new novit iate. The worthy man was sodelighted that he . gave a hol iday to al l the inmates ofthe establ ishment

,that they might go together to inspect

the fresh acqu is it ion .

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2 24 THE R I V IERA

attempt would be made to assass inate the fugit ive . He

accord ingly strongly urged Col let to remove to a placewhere he was not in such danger.Col let accord ingly departed ; went to Rochebeaucourt,

where he took up his lodging with the commissary of

the pol ice.

I n the meantime accurate descriptions of Col let hadbeen sent throughout France to the pol ice, and thiscommissary had received them . Yet never for a momentd id it o ccu r to him that the gentleman of aristocraticappearance and with a purse wel l l ined

,who p aid so

promptly and l iberal ly for his p ension,cou ld be the man

so much sought for.

From Rochebeaucourt Col let went to L e Mans,where

he figured as a wel l -to-do bou rgeois , devoted to charitableactions . a man of i rreproachable l ife. But there , final lyhe was arrested

,tried , and sentenced to twenty years

hard labour,and to be branded as a felon . I n pri son he

remained for twenty years,and died on the eve of the

day when his chains were to be struck off,i n November,

1 840.

This extraord inary story does not so much prove how

gul l ible men are, as how good and trustworthy mostmen are

,so that when we do come across a rogue who

takes advantage of us , i t i s l ike an earthquake that shakesu s out of ou r moral equi l ibrium .

Some very interesting excurs ions may be made fromN i ce to places access ible by electric tram or by trai n.

Cagnes was a castle of the Grimaldi . The l i ttle town

o ccupies a hog’sback

,the summ i t of the hil l i s crowned

by the chateau , and the one street lead ing to i t runs upthe spine of hil l , with houses on each side cl inging tothe steep s ides . The castle is not very picturesque, but

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2 2 6 THE R IV IERA

k insman,the Prior Fighera, in Rome. This opened

'

to

David many doors in the capital of Western Christendom

,and David received orders for pictures . I n grat i

tude he sent a painting of S . John the Baptist to hisfriend

,the curé of E z e

,for his new church. About the

year 1 880 this picture van ished . The Admin istrationdes Beaux A rts instituted an inqu i ry, and ascertainedthat the Consul s of E z e had sold the painting. to anEngl ishman for 500 francs

,whereas i t was worth

francs . That picture i s now in the NationalGal lery .

I n the l ittle cemetery of E z e i s la id a Swiss woman ,assass inated in 1 902 by Vidal

,a woman-murderer.

F rom N ice a l ine takes to Puget Theniers , on the Var.The l ine is fu l l of interest, pass ingplaces rich in strik ingobjects , and al lowing of branch excurs ions up theVesub

’

i e, the Timée , the Cians , with scenery of the

grandest character. I t, moreover, enables the vis itorto explore strange vi l lages , such as Touet-de-Beuil

,

plastered against the l imestone rocks . The Clas of theCians at Touét , where the river cleaves through the .Jural imestone stained various colours , i s as fine as anythingof the k ind . There is hard ly a vi l lage or town accessiblefrom this l ine that does not repay a vis i t, and whichwil l not fi l l a sketch-book or furnish a photographerwith subjects.

CHAPTER X IV

MONACO

Beauty of site—Phoenician shrine of Melkarth—Meanness of modern

buildings—The Cathedralarid Palace—Extent ofthe principality—TheGrimaldi—Rainier I I .

—Charles II . at Crecy .

—Antonio Grimaldi

Lucien’s murder—Murder of Hercules I .

—Louis I . : his gib b etsRoquebrune and Mentone revolt—The gamb ling establishment of

Charles I II .—M . Blane —Les Spélunges—Marriage of Prince of

Monaco annulled— La Turbic—Trophy ofAugustus—Monte Carlo

S . Devota-t e Casino : importance to the principality—RouletteSystems—Charges ofCaptainWeihe : improb ab le because unnecessary—Cave ofLa Veille—Deathof the Duke ofYork.

ONACO i s assu redly the lovel iest spot on theentire L igurian coast . More the pity that it

shou ld be del ivered over to such evi l associations as

cl ing to i t.Monaco itsel f is a l imestone crag ris ing out of the

sea, l inked to the mainland by a neck, the rocks on al ls ides precipitous

,but cut into

,to form an approach to

the town . Above it towers the ridge that ex tends'

from

the Mont Agel , with i ts fortress gl eaming white againsta gentian -blue sky

,by La Turbie

,

“ hunc usque I tal ia ,abhinc Gall ia,

” and the Tete-de-Chien,formerly Testa

de-Camp.

The ro ck ofMonaco takes its name from Monoikos.

I t was dedicated to the Phoen ician Melkarth, the One

god in a hou se, who would suffer no other idols in his2 2 7

2 2 8 THE R IV IERA

temple, and that temple anciently crowned the rock .

The adopt ion by the Grimald i of a monk as supporterto the arms is due to a misapprehens ion that Monaco isderived from Monacus . Unhappily

,matchlessly beaut i

fu l as is the s ituat ion , the bu ild ings of Monaco do notconduce to picturesqueness . The palace is mean andugly to the last degree. I t

‘

has four towers,erected in

1 2 1 5 by the Genoese architect Fulco del Castel lo, butthe domestic bu i ld ings connecting these towers are ofvarious dates

,and al l bad . The palace has not a s ingl e

bold and characterist ic feature to give i t d ign ity.

A vast sum— from the gambl ing tables— has beenspent upon

’

a cathedral,designed by

}

Charles L enormand.

I nternal ly, and indeed external ly, from near at hand iti s fine and dign ified . But from a d istance it producesan unpleas ing effect. I t has no tal l towers

,no stately

dome ; b ut at the rear, a monstrous hump , designed tomake a d isplay of the West front , otherwise mean ingl ess . The d istant effect of this chu rch is that of an infant peacock

,spreading i ts tai l before i t has any feathers

to d isplay.

There is not a s ingle commanding feature in theb unch of bu i ld ings huddled together on the summit ofthe rock

,and old Mentone, with its commonplace

church tower,presents a nobler aspect than does Monaco .

No finer site in the world could be found , and none hasbeen so wasted through incapacity to uti l ise i t .Monaco i s an independent principal ity

,under an

autocratic government. I t,i ts prince

,its gambl ing hel l ,

are under the protection of France . The principal i tycomprises acres

,which would be the estate of

a petty Engl ish squ ire. But the Sovereign has hisCounci l of S tate, his nobles, and his bishop atcommand.

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2-

36~

:THE”

R IV IERA

a Genoese fleet in 1 304 through the S traits of Gibraltari n to the ocean. He

'

conducted s ixteen gal leys to thecoast of~Flanders,

‘

and encountered the F lemish fleetbefore Z iricksee .

‘

He concerned himself l ittle about theFrench vessel s that had j oined him

,and al lowed al l of

them to be taken but as the Flem ings were fel ici tatingthemselves on their victory

,he returnedwith the ris ing

tide, pierced their l ine, destroyed a numbe r of thei rships , and took prisoner Guy de Namur, son of theCount of F landers .Charles I I . of Monaco was made governor ofProvence

and admiral of the fleet of Genoa. I n 1 338 he d irectedtwenty gal leys against the Flemings ; in 1 346, alongwith Anton io Doria

,he led thirty against the Engl ish .

The troops were d isembarked,and joined the French

army which encountered the Engl ish at Crecy. TheGenoese were esteemed the best archers in the world .

Grimald i and Doria d isposed them to the best advantage , and they wou ld have done great execution in theEngl ish ranks, but that the rain had relaxed the str ingsof their bows

,and

,says Froissart

“ They hooted, advancing withtheir crossbows presented,and began to shoot. The Englisharchers then advanced onestep , and shot their arrows withsuchforce and speed that itwas like a fall of snow. When the Genoese felt the arrowsthat p ierced their arms, heads, and thoughtheir armour, someof them cut the strings of their cross-bows, others flung themon the ground, and all turned and retreated in discomfiture .

The Frenchhad a large body of men-at-arms on horseback,richly dressed, to support the Genoese. The King of France,seeingthem fall back, cried out K i ll me those scoundrels, forthey block our way unreasonably !

’Then you would have

seen the Frenchmen-at-arms lay about them, killing all theycould of those runaways .

”

ANTON IO GR IMALD I 2 3 1

Grimald i fel l there,mortal ly wounded .

Antonio Grimaldi , Genoese Adm i ral in 1 332 , wascharged to revenge the ravages of the A ragonese on thecoasts of L iguria, at a time when civi l war preventedthe Genoese from defending themselves and thei r possessions . Grimaldi , with a fleet of fifty-five vessels , harriedthe coasts of Catalonia

,leaving behind him only ruins,

and loading his vessels with plunder and captives. He

carried off the galleys’

ofthe enemy from the harbour ofMajorca. The A ragonese sent against him a fleet oftwenty- four vessels

,but.he defeated it . I n 1 353 he was

again placed at the head of the Genoese naval forces ,and again sent against the Aragonese, who were now inleague with the Venetians. Grimald i had a fleet of

fifty- two sai l

,and he hoped to fight and defeat the

enemy be fore they could effect a j unct ion . I n this hewas disappointed . He met the combined fleets near anislet off the north coast of S ard inia, A ugust 29th, 1 353 .

Pisani, the admi ral of the Venetians, concealed a portionof his fleet, and Grimaldi , de ceived , attacked the rest.Whi lst thus engaged , he saw the detached portion of theVenetian floti l l a approach , and he found that he had todeal with seventy-three sail . To present a strong front tothe enemy, he bound his gal leys together by the sides andmasts, reserving only four on each wing to act as reserve.

The Venetians and Catalans seeing this arrangement ,also uni ted their vessel s to the numbe r of fifty-four

,but

kep t s ixteen free at their flanks . This s ingular d ispos it ion shows how l ittle, if at al l , naval manoeuvres hadaltered since the time of the c ivi l war between Caesarand Pompey.

The Catalans brought up three round tubs of vessel scal led eogues against the right wing of Grimald i, and

2 3 2 - THE R I V IERA

sank as many of his gal leys . A larmed at th is,he

unl inked eleven of his vessel s and ral l ied them to theeight of the reserve, and, without striking another blow,

fled , and left the rest of the fleet a prey to the enemy.

All the thirty vessels thus abandoned by the cowardlyadm i ral were obl iged to surrender.

_

In that day the Genoese lost inen killed , andtaken prisoners . The Republ ic had never be fore

suffered such a d isaster. De‘

spair took possess ion of

government and people, and they abdicated their i nde

p endence and proclaimed John Visconti , Duke of Milan ,as L ord of Genoa . L ucien ( 1 506— 14) murdered hisbrother John , so as to obtain the principal ity fo r himsel fat least , so i t was surmi sed , and L ucien was obl iged tofly from Monaco on that account

,and conceal himself

,

t i l l Duke Charles of‘

S avoy gave him an indult,forbid

d ing al l i nqu iry to be made into the matter of the crime,and search after the murderer. Then L u cien stole backto Monaco and assumed the sovereignty. His S i sterFrancesca had married L ucas Doria, and when left awidow

,by her wi l l constituted her brothers L ucien and

A ugustine, who was bishop of Grasse, guard ians ofher chi ldren . A fter her death her son BartholomewDoria complained bitterly that his uncle L ucien Grimald i kept hold of the inheritance and would not surrenderit . A t last

,resentment induced him to resolve on t e

venging himsel f on L ucien , for the wrong done to himsel f

,and ‘for the murder of his uncle John . He secured

the promise of co -Operation,i f requ ired

,of the famous

adm i ral,Andrew Doria, and he sen t to Monaco some

confederates,with a request to L ucien to let them be

lodged there in safety, as they had got i nto a broi l atGenoa . He also intimated his intent ion to fol low shortly

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2 34 THE R IV IERA

to get possession ofand outrage the wives and daughtersof his subj ects . A t last some, whose wives had beend ishonoured

.

by him, conspired , took him and flung himover the rocks into the sea .

L ou is ( 166 2 Prince -

of Monaco,became en

amoured of the celebrated Hortense Mancin i,Duchess

ofMazarin , exiled from France for hei' i ntrigues . He

fol lowed her to Rome, and thence : to London,where he

and Charles I I . were rivals for her favour. S aintEvremond d id al l in his power to separate her

fl from theprince and constitute her a prime favourite of the King,i n place of the Duchess of Portsmouth.

’

A rival ry i nprod igal ity ensued b etween l ittle Monaco and the Kingof Great Britain . I t was the fable of the frog and theox enacted . I n an access of j ealousy Charles withdrewa pens ion of he had accorded to the duchess

,

whereupon L ou is sent her an order . for that sameamount

,payable for l ife out of his treasury

,accom

panying i t with a Copy ofverses . That the money waspaid regularly is more than doubtful .This L ou is was married to Charlotte de Gramont,

who was one of “ lesgrana’es amoureuses of the reign of

L ou is X IV. She i ntrigued with the k ing. She entertained a pass ion for her ambitious cousin de L auzun .

Her many love adventures furn ished Saint S imon witha good deal of not very ed ifying matter for hisMémoires . Whi lst Charlotte revel led in Paris , L ouissul ked at Monaco . A s news reached him of Charlottehaving made a fresh conquest

,he had a gibbet erected

on the confines of h is t iny principal ity, and the happyman in effigy hung from it ; and as Charlotte

’s capricesand conquests were numerous , the front ier of Monacowas soon marked out at in tervals by a score of gal lows,

THE REVOLT 2 35

fromwhich dangled'

dummy men, al l d resse d in Courtco stume J

Not merely, says -Mme . de Sevigne, is’

this measureretrospective, but folk amuse themselves by informing the

p rince of what is now going on . The consequence is that the

gibbets have to be put closer together, and more than halfof the courtiers are now dangl ing in effigy along the frontiersof Monaco . I can assure you that I have had many a laughover this

,and others as well. The kinghimself laughs at it .

This frenzy ofhangings passes all belief.”

A t'

the beginn ing of the seventeenth century, theSpaniardshad profited by the m inority OfHonoré I I . to

put a garrison into Monaco, under the'

p re tex t of al l iance.

S peed ily they took advantage of th is to behave as:

masters of the place. Prince Honoré, to escape from theirdomination

,s igned a secret treaty with Lou is X I I I . in

164 1 , by virtue of which his sovereign independence -was

guaranteed and a garrison of 500 French soldiers wasassured him after the expulsion of the Spaniards. But i twas precisely this last thing that was most difficu l t toachieve. Honoré succeeded by subtlety. He orderedthe arrest of thirty of the inhabitants of Monaco

,l usty

men , and cast them into prison; then invited theSpanish garrison to a grand banquet at the palace,and made them as drunk as fiddlers. When they werealmost in capable of defence

,he Opened the prison

,told

the men he had locked up that they were to massacrethe Spanish garrison , and put daggers into thei r hands .The Spaniards, however, were not so drunk that theycould not defend their l ives they were

,however

,nearly

al l slaughtered ; and the gate s were thrown open to

some French sold iers who had been waiting at Antibes

2 36 THE R I V IERA

to replace the Spaniards. This took place in Novemb er ,1 64 1 . I n consequence of this

,al l the estates of.Hono ré

i n I taly were"

confi scated , but L ou is X I I I . indemnifiedHonoré for this by granting

'

to him the S eigneurie ofL es Baux in Provence and the Duchy of Valentinois.

A ntoine,who d ied in 1 73 1 , was the last direc t male of

the house. He left a daughter, L ou ise H ippolyte , whomarried Jacques Francois de Matignon ; Comte 1 deTorrigny. She su rvived her father but eleven months.Her son Honoré I I I . ( 1 73 1—1 795) lived at the time of

the out break of the French Revolu tion . The new ideasexcited effervescence in l ittl e Monaco , Roquebrune, andMentone

,which belonged at the t ime to the p rincipal ity,

and they demanded elect ivecounci ls. Honorewas com

p elled to yield , whereupon the Counci ls suppressed al lfeudal rights . Then , when he was frightened and ranaway

,the three towns declared the Ho use ofGrimald i

deposed . N i ce had been un ited to France, and Monacodemanded the same favou r, which was granted February14th , 1 793 . Honoré was arrested on S eptember 2 8th,i n the same year, and detained ti l l Therm idor 9th.

He d ied in 1 795. By the treaty of Paris,1 8 14 , Monaco

was restored to Honoré IV.,his son , but

'

on the return

ofNapoleon from E lba , the principal ity was occupied byan Engl ish force . By the treaty of November 20th

,

1 8 1 5, i t was transferred to S ardin ia but this lasted onlyti l l when H onoré V. regained his princip al ity.

His son Florestan I . ( 1 84 1—56) abol ished monopoly inbread

,

’

al lowed free trade , 1 and founded a col lege atMentone. The revolution of 1 848 was disastrous, to thePrince. Mentone and Roquebrune severed their con

nex ion with Monaco and were annexed to S ard inia .

Charles I I I . ( 1 856 - 89) succeeded his father, Florestan .

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M . BLANC 2 37

H e it Was who conceived the idea ofrepairing his lossesby the establ ishment of gam ing tables at Monaco.

The princes had coined gold , s i lver, and copper moneyfrom I 505, with the legend , Cliristus regnat , Christusimpe rat , Christu s vincitL

”

This legend became inappro

p riate thenceforth , i n Monaco .

In . 1 856 Charles I II. Started the gambling tables in abuilding adjoin ing the palace, afterwards occupied bythe guard of honour. But . the venture was not asuccess .’ Monaco Was out of the

'

way, hardly accessiblefrom the land

,where the Corniche

'

Road ran high above,on the summi t of the cliffS ' by La Turbie, so that itcould be reached conveniently only by sea.

The gambl ing concession passed through varioushands

,ti l l

,owing to the closing of the Casino at

HomburgL M . Blanc thought of Monaco . I n 1 863 hewent there

,on March 3mt, entered the bureau of the then

concess ioners,L efebre and Co .

,and said

,

“ You want tosel l this affair I am d isposed to take it . Reflect . I shal lreturn here at pm . I leave at 4 p m. by the steamboat

,and I want to have this matter settled before I go

back to N i ce.

”

The company sold it to Blanc forfrancs .

On Apri l 1 st, All Fools’

Day, 1 863, Blanc formed LaSoc iété anonyme des Bains de Mer e t Cercle des

Etrangers a Monaco, for fifty years,with a capital of

fifteen mi l l ions , represented b y Shares of 500francs each . One of: the fi rst to take shares in this

gambling society.was Pope L eo XfII I . ,

at the time onlycardinal . Blanc was a l ittle man

,with moustache

al ready white,aged fiftyfseven, ,

when he came to featherhis nest

,and that z of the Prince of Monaco

,at Monte

Carlo . He married his daughter to Prince Roland

2 38 THE R I V IERA

Bonaparte, grandson of L ucien , Prince -of Caninio,the

brother of the Emperor Napo leon I .Blanc d ied in 1 88 1 . I n 1 882 i t was f resolved to

double the capital ofthis “ bathing establ ishment.”

Thefi fteen mil l ion was raised to thirty m il l ion

,d ivided up

into shares of 500 francs each,Blanc’s heirs

retaining about shares in thei r own hands . As

the origi nal concess io n was for fifty years , and wouldexpire in 19 1 3 , i t was deemed advisable to approach thePrince of Monaco for an extens ion, and this was

granted , as the shareholders complained ,“ on very hard

terms.” I t was signed on J anuary 16th,

_

1 898 , and bythis agreement the company received a fresh concess ionfor fifty years .

So profitable an affair is this C ircle des Etrangers andSociété des Bains de Mer, that the ord inary 500-francshares rose at once to francs .An old I tal ianproverb was to this effect

Monaco io sono

Un scoglio .

Delmio nonhoQuello d’altruinon taglioPur viver voglio .

That may be rendered ,“ I am Monaco , a mere ro ck ;

I have naught of my own,I take no goods of o thers ;

yet I must l ive.

”

This proverb is now as inappropriate as the legendon the coins ; for Monaco l ives and thrives on thepl under of those who go there to empty thei r money on

L es Spélunges, a rocky promontory, fu l l ofholes andcracks

,l ike a petrified sponge , on which formerly

shepherds pastured ~ the i r goats , has . be come the

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246 THE R I V IERA

the connex ion had been one of mere concubinage , yet,nevertheless , the son was to be regarded as legi timate.

“Wh ich is the humour of it,

” as Corporal Nym wouldsay. I t further ordered that the re -marriage of eitherparty must take place where the S tate did not requ irec ivi l marriage, as c ivi l courts considered the fi rst marriage as val id .

“ Which,

” again as Nymwould say, “ i sthe humou r of i t.”

E l even months after this decree L ady Mary Hamiltonmarried Count Tass i lo Fe stitics

,at Pesth ; and the Prince

married , October 3o th, 1 889, A l ice, dowager duchess ofR i chel ieu , a Heine of New O rleans . The name isJ ewish .

The Pope seems to have fel t that his proceed ing inthis matter had made the sensitive consciences of RomanCathol ics wince

,for he shortly after i ssued an Encyc

lical on Marriage, and pointed out what were the pleason which the Papal Court was ju stified in d issolvingexist ing marriages. The Tablet also, on March 3 Ist,1 894, publ i shed an apologetic artic le, in which it assuredthe wo rld that the ofl‘icial fees paid to the Propagandafor annu l l ing a marriage were trifl ing,

that,i n a .word

,

a marriage cou ld be d issolved at Rome, d irt-cheap , for

£ 1 20. More shame to it,i f true. But “ Credat J udsens

Apel les non ego .

”

This Court,as we know

,wil l al low

,for a handsome

consideration, an uncle to marry his n iece, whereasformal ly it forbids an un ion within the seven degrees .H igh aloft, towering above Monaco, feet from

the sea- l evel , access ible by a cog- rai lway

,i s La Turbie ,

the. point where the old Roman Via A urel ia and themodern Corn iche Road cross a neck that is the naturald ivi s ion between France and I taly ; the point where, i n

A LA TURB IE 2 4 1

Roman times be fore the Empire, Gau l ended , and I talybegan .

La Turbie is a corruption of Tropaia— the T rophy,

for here st ood the monument erected by A ugustu s aboutthe year B .C . 1 3 , commemorative of his victories overthe L igurian nat ives of the coast . For some seventeenyears the empire had existed . A ll exterior marks offlattery and submiss ion had been '

accorded to him. To

him had already been given an official worship, as i f hewere a god. Even that white soul ” Virgi l thus speaksof the living emperor 1—7

“ A god has vouchsafed us thistranqu i l l ity ; for to me he (A ugustus) shal l always bea god. A tender lamb from our folds shal l often dyehis altar with its blood .

”

A ncient writers have left u s no description of themonument . Pl iny records the inscription it bore inseventy-eight words , of which thirty- three were devotedto the offic ial ded ication to the d ivine A ugustus and torecord his dignit ies, and forty-five to the enumeration ofthe conquered peoples .The monument has gone through a period of sad

wreckage. The Genoese pil laged i t of marbles wherewith to decorate the palaces of the citizen nobles ; andin the period of the furious struggles between Guel fsand Ghibel l ines it was converted into a fortress . I t nowpresents a substructure ofthe period of A ugustus, abovewhich rises the shattered fragment of a mediaeval

'

tower.

Before the year 1 869 only fourteen letters of“

thei nscription had been recovered . S ince then five morehave been found , which had been bu ilt into a wal l su rround ing the vi l lage. From a descript ion of the monument as it existed in the s ixteenth century

,before it was

such a complete wreck as it i s at presen t,written by a

R

2 4 2 THE R I V IERA

Franciscan,Anton io Boyer, of N i ce , i t had a square

basement abo ut twenty- four feet high , above which rosea ci rcu lar structure sixty feet high, divided into twostages , with marble col umns ranging one above another.Between these columns were n iches once adorned withstatues

,and the whole -was capped by ‘a cupola sur

mounted , probably by. a statue of Victory,or of A ugus

tus}. I n the basement were two doors, and above thenorth' door was the tablet inscribed .with the dedicat ion to A ugustus . The upper portion

,converted into a

tower i n the M iddle Ages, was destroyed in 1 705 byorder of L ou is X IV. Mines of gunpowder were ex

ploded under it .The church , erected in 1 777 , and the houses of La

Turbie are buil t o ut of the stones pi l l aged from thi smonument. I n the church is a copy of the S . Michaelof Raphael , given by the Musée S . Germain i n exchangefor a statue and the fragments of the inscription , fromthe T rophy of Augustus .

1 I t i s worth whi le to s it on therock and look at this ru i n— the ru in of an immensemonument set up to honour a mortal deified, and towhom sacrifices were offered , who gathered into his ownhands al l the authority and power of the known worldfor his own selfish glorification— and think , that at thesame time He was born who made H imsel f of no repu

tation and took on Him the form of a servant , and wasmade in the l ikeness of man— who humbled H imselfand became obedient unto death

,even the death of the

cross . 1 The T rophy of A ugustus i s a heap of ru ins,bu t

the Cathol ic Church , the trophy of Him who was bornunder Cmsar Augustu s; i s everywhere, and imperishable.

1 A fine' head, dug out from the ruins, and supposed to be that of

Drusus, is now in the Copenhagen museum.

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2 44 THE R I V I ERA

there the body was laid . Her festival i s on January 2 7th,and on that day a procession leaves the cathedral atMonaco and descends to the Church of S te . Devota inthe gul ley.

The great charm of Monte Carlo consists in the

gardens with tropical plants . A s to the bui ld ings ofCasino and Theatre

,they are by Charles Garn ier

,who

was also the architect ofthe Grand Opera House at Paris .— enough to say that they are vulgar and display notoken of gen ius and sense of beauty. They are ap

p rOpriate to a gambl ing hel l . That i s al l that can besaid of them .

“ The Casino, says Miss Dempster, the authoress of Vera,is the thing that all Europe, Asia, and America talk of, thatall moralists decry, and that all p leasure-seekers declare to bea paradise. It is the Casino that gives wealthand fashion tothis section of the coast. It is the Casino that causes a dozentrains to stop daily at Monte Carlo that keeps up the palace,the army, the roads, the opera-house, and the HOtel de Paris .It is the green table that keeps the gardens green and the '

violins in tune that has brought residents and so manyhundred prostitutes to the town ; that gives work to

servants, and causes the annual issue of about tickets.When we consider these facts, the fabu lous beauty of the site,the m ildness of the climate, the good dinners, the better music,the pigeon-shooting, and the many exciting chances, can wewonder that Monte Carlo is in every mouth? ”

I t i s just the fact that the s ite i s so exqu isitely beautifu l that i s the pity of i t al l . Why should the moralcesspool of Europe be precisely there ? How muchbetter were i t in the Maremma or the Campagna

,where

the ri sk to heal th and l ife would add zest to the speculation with gold . As long as men people the globe there

POST CARDS NOT ADM ITTE D INTO MONACO

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2 46 THE R I V IERA

the‘

boatmen s ink them far out at . sea be tween Monte

Carlo and Cors ica .

A cco rd ing to the“

same authority, the bodies wereformerly thrust into the holes and cracks in the l imestone on which the Casino and the tributary bu ild ingsof Monte Carlo stand

,but the cond ition in consequence

became so insanita’

ry that the plaée had to be cleared ofthem

,and a large body of workmen was imported from

I taly and employed on this work,and the corpses re

moved were d ispose d of at sea. Captain Weihe assertsas a matter of h is own knowledge or ob servation

'

thatfrom the upper part of the ri ft of Pont L arousse

,i n

1 898 , sixty corpses, from the lower by Vil la Eden tenor twelve were removed .

The game of rou lette i s composed of two d istinctd ivi s ions , that ofnumbers and that of eaa

’res . Upon the

former i t i s poss ible for the player to win thi rty-five

times the value of his stake ; but then , the bank hasth i rty-s ix chances against him . Upon the eaa

’res there

i s not so great a risk for rouge or noir, pair or i

'

mpair'

,

passe or manque, there are nearly the same chances forthe players as there are for the bank ; but then , on theother hand

,the player can win no more than the value

of his stake.

The bank , with the odds on zero , normal ly absorbsone - seventieth of al l the money staked on each tableduring the course of the year ; that would be againstconstant players with capital behind them equal to thebank ; but the majority of players take a comparativelyl im ited sum with them and play without a system , unti li t i s lost

,and then

'

perforce stop ; whereas if they had

the bank ’s unl imited time and capital , they would play,lo sing only one-seventieth of their stake on each coup,

SYSTEMS 247

and prolong the t ime requ ired to lose a given capital .

This constant game of what wou ld in America be cal led“ freeze out ,

” enormously increases the bank ’s chancesover the calculable one -seventieths of the staker, and is

doubtless the main cause of its large winn ings . The

p rofi ts of the company were, i n 1904, something l ikeThis

,at the calcu lable odds, would mean

the staking during the year of the enormous sum ofBut owing to the way the usual player

stakes,as above described

,probably a smal l fractional

p art of that sum would be sufficient to provide thatamount of revenue. A s M . Blanc was wont to say“ Rouge gagne quelque fois noir auss i quelque foismais Blane toujours .I f players had unl imited capital , and were al lowed

without check to adopt the martingale or pyram idsystem , they would run smal l chance of losing. Thisconsists in choosing a cadre and playing resolutely uponit, each time doubl ing the stake

,unti l that which i s

backed wins,which i t is certain to do if continued long

enough . When it wins,the player has recovered the

total of his stakes plus one,except the tol l on zero

,

whereupon he would revert to the minimum stake. Butthe bank knows this as wel l as any one

,and draws a l ine

beyond which there i s no doubl ing al lowed .

A t roulette, the m in imum stake is five francs ; but attrente-e t-quarante, a game at cards, the lowest stake i stwenty francs. The amount of systems proposed

,pub

lished, and advertised , i s prodigious : every one has hissystem, who is an enthusiastic gambler, and every onehas - led to confusion and loss . One hears at intervalsof lucky players who have broken the bank . Butwhat guarantee have we that these are not decoy

2 48 THE R I V IERA

ducks , or at al l events'

persons al lowed to do so , asan advertisement, and a means of luring other persons‘to try thei r chance to do I the same ? The l ast ofthose who has written is one Josephine Lorenz

, S enaj'

dir Gola’in M onte Carlo, publ ished at Munich in 1905.

S ir H i ram Maxim in his M onte Carlo,-London , 1904 ,

tells a s ignificant story about the break ing of thebank by Lo rd Rosslyn and the

”

late Mr. Sam L ewis .A fter about seven consecu tive wins

,i t was said that

the bank had been broken ; a bel l was rung, and afactor of the bank was summoned and requ i red tobring a fresh supply of money. I t was del ivered“

,the

play proceeded,

'

and a second time the bank was broken .

This led to immense exci tement : hundreds of peoplecrowded about the table and fol lowed the lead of thetwo l ucky stakers , with their smal ler ventures . The nexttime they won on seventeen coups ; after that, however,each lost francs

,and those who had docilely

fol lowed them lost also. The bank was not really brokenthe thi rd time

,but pretended and proclaimed that i t had

been .

“ However, says Sir H iram,my suspicions were. excited ;

I did not believe for a moment that the bankhad actually beenbroken . I knew that there had been a great deal of p layduring the day, and that the winnings at this particu lar tablemust have been very heavy indeed. I therefore remained to

see the money taken from the table, when I found it wasexactly as I had expected ; there was at least a peck of largebank notes . It had no t been necessary for the bank to sendfor money at al l ; this had been done for effect. I t was tele

graphed all over the world that Lord Rosslyn and Mr. SamLewis had broken the bank three consecutive times in a singleevening. True, the bank had lost money, but they turnedit into a valuable advertisement.”

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CAPTA IN WE IHE 2 49

That is not al l . Next day L ord Rosslyn and Mr. L ewisagain tried their luck

,and lost at whatever they tried,

whether at roulette or at trente-et-quarante. L ordRosslyn staked fifteen times in as many minutes, andnever won a single coup .

”

Sir H i ram dri ly observes

Considered from a purely mathematical standpoint, itwou ld appear very remarkable that he should win seventeenconsecutive times in the evening, and lose fifteen consecutivetimes the followingmorning.

”

Captain Weihe of Hamburg, of the German MarineA rt i l lery

,has publ ished in

'

German and I tal ian abroonure

,ent itled

,in the former language, Dar False/z

sp z'

el z'

n M onte Carlo, i n which he brings a charge offraud against the company, based on his observat ionduring three seasons of steady watching the play. Nowthe chances of the bal l entering a given pocket arecalculable. A ccording to him,

the number of t imes , sayin a thousand , in which , by the law of chances , the bal lought to enter a given number is calcu lable, here, however, i t does not obey the law of chances .Further, he says that he noticed that wealthy p l ayers

were encouraged to proceed , by winning stake afterstake, and then , al l at once, luck would declare againstthem . Why, he wonders , shou ld such men be lucky atfi rst and only unlucky afterwards ?Then , he asserts

’ that the agents of the companyoccas ional ly encourage a timorous player by advice,given with al l secrecy, to stake on a certain number,and that then

,by some remarkable coincidence, this

number wi l l win . These observations,he says

,led him

to the conclusion that there existed some method

3 50 THE R IV IERA‘

whereby the bal l could be directed to go where the

,croupiers

'

des ired that i t shou ld go . 1 Then he assertsthat he assured himself that a piece

~ofsteel was inserted

in a certain numb er of the .bal l s , and that these loadedbal ls cou ld be drawn into any pocket des ired , by thec/zey

‘

do partz'

e, by means of an electror magnet man i

pulated by himself. He further asserts that by closeobservat ion during three seasons

,

‘ he was able,by

watching the fingers of the and,to pred icate with some

thing approaching to certainty into which number thebal l would run .

The pamphlet in'

question i s not sold at N ice orMentone, and it need not be said i s not al lowed to passover the frontier of the principal ity of Monaco

,but i t

can be ~

p rocured at Bord ighera ; .

However,i t appears very improbable that the bank

would.run such a ri sk .

' It i s true that detection ofroguery is not easy, where the tables are in a princ i

pality under an absolute monarch, and where pol ice andeve ry authori ty are interested in the continuance of the

gambl ing. There is,however

,the risk of some croupier

giv ing away the show”

; and there is al so the risk . ofdetection . But— i s cheating necessary ? I s i t worth itssalt ?

‘Let us look closer in to the acknowledged system .

Wh ile . playing on the even chances gives per cent.i n favour of the bank

,

“ playing on any o ther gives thebank 2 7 0 ; and as many fools play on those chancesthat favour the bank most highly, i t i s probably safe toassume that the odds In favour of the b ank wi l l averageI 66 on al l the tables , bo th trente e t-quar

.

ante and

roulette . I f individuals playing would take in all themoney ,

they ,

cou ld afford to lose,’

d ivide this into somany maximums (i f one d id not suffice) and stake the

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2 52 THE R I V IERA

lands the player a winner of one un i t. The defect,however

,i s that

,starting with the min imum stake

,the

maximum is reached at the eleventh doubl ing,and

a run of eleven is of by no means an infrequen t occurrence. Against this the bank protects i tsel f in i ts mostvu lnerable place ; even then ,

’ were i ts limits removed ,yet i t would be stead i ly levying i ts comm i ss ion .

I t i s accordingly not necessary for the company tohave recourse to underhand work as charged by CaptainWeihe ; the income of 008 real ised withouttrickery

,on an average stake per table would be 6 1 1

'

55 fr.Any one who has been at Monte Carlo wi l l admit thatthis i s probably very much below the average amount ofmoney on the table at each spin of the wheel ; and withsuch an income

,where arises the o ccasion for i l l ic itly

supplementing i t ? The following i s a table of stakesneeded to real ise the known p rofi ts of the company :

6 1 1 °

55 fr. ,average stake each Bank percentage, fr.

of 1 4 tablestotal Stakes at 1 4 1 4 2 6 9 fr.

tables, 50 con}: per hour

fr.,average stakes fr.

each 1 2 hours the Casinois open

fr. , total daily fr.stakes, 365 days a yearCasino is open

fr., total n fr.

yearly stakes£ 7 st

‘

erling equiva

lent

Thus enabl ing the bank on average stake’

s of 6 1 1 5 5francs to real i se But i t must be remembered

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2 54 THE R I V IERA

and , to the perplexity of the chaplain,next S unday hal f

his congregation left the chapel during the hymn beforethe sermon and rushed off to the Casino to back thenumbe r of the hymn .

A fter this i t became - the rule at the Monte CarloEngl i sh chape l never thenceforth to give out a numberunder thirty -seven before the sermon .

On the promontory of La Veill e at the water’s edgei s a grotto . When Edward Augustus , Duke of York,brother to George I I I . , was on his way to I taly on aman-of-war , feel ing too i l l to proceed he was landedat Monaco

,and received into the pal ace

,where he

d ied in 1 767 . The body was embalmed and taken toL ondon .

Fi shermen always make the s ign of the cross whenpassing the entrance of the Grotte de la Vei l le, for theysay that when the vessel on which was the Duke of

York arrived in the bay, a white form was seen,as that

of a woman , at the entrance, watching the evolutionsof the ship . A fter the Duke was removed she sti l lremained vis ible

,with her face turned towards the

palace. She was again seen when the cannon announcedhis death

,and again when his bo dy was removed .

The sa i lors hu rry by the cave, and wi l l on no accountenter i t. I t m ight be as wel l i f travel lers crossed themselves and hurried by, instead of al lowing themselves tob e

‘

drawn into the hal ls of the Circe of Gambl ing on thetop of the cliff.

CHAPTER XV

M ‘

E N TO N E

Configuration of the land—Favoured situation of Mentone : suitable for

mid-winter— Old and new Mentone—Oranges and lemons—HistoryofMentone— Roqueb rune—PassionMystery— Castellan —Depredationsof corsairs— Open

-air ball —Dr. Bennet—The torrent of S . Louis

The Barma Grande—Prehistoric men.

HE travel ler by rai l from N ice to Mentone is hardlyable to appreciate the configuration of the land ,

and to understand what are the special advantagesenjoyed by Mentone over N ice and Cannes .L e t us take a s ickle to represent the mountain system

from the Swiss A lps to the Abruzzi . I f the sickle beheld with the point upward and the cutting edge turnedaway from one

,then the great curve of the inner edge

represents the vast basin of the Po and its tributaries .A t Mont Blanc the A lpine sweep turns south and runsto Monte Viso

,form ing the Dauphine A lps . From

Monte Viso the ridge cu rves to the east ti l l i t meets theshank above Genoa

,and the handle of the sickle i s the

range of the Apenn ines .From N i ce one can see the snowy peaks . L es Cimes

du D iable are visible,but away to the north-east

,for the

chain is on the curve there. Above the R iviera d iPonente the chain draws very near to the sea

,but

throws out spurs and al lows of a ledge resting against

2 56 THE R I V IERA

i t, i nterven ing between it and the Mediterranean . Nowin leaving N i ce by the Corniche Road we can see thisformation , we learn how the A lps describe a greatarc but this i s lost to u s in the train

,hugging the sea

shore and diving i n and out of tunnels.I t i s only by the Corn iche Road

,when we have

reached La Turbie,that we d iscern how special ly

privi leged are Mentone and the Ital ian R iviera . We

see before us an amphitheatre,with mountain stages ,

and the blue sea for arena . The mountains run up toand feet, and wal l ab out the ferti le bottom ,

the seats about the sea, sheltering them from everyblast. The higher mountains of grey l imestone arebare

,but below all i s rich with luxuriant vegetation .

The entire bay and the town of Mentone, withits back

groundofswelling, olive-cladhills closed in by the amphitheatreof mountains, are thus thoroughly protected from the north-west,north, and north-east winds . To thoroughly understand and

appreciate the district and its singu larly protected character,a

boat shou ld be taken, and the panorama viewed a mi le or twofrom the shore. The extreme beauty of the coast will amplyrepay the trouble. Thus seen, all the details are blended intoone harmonious whole ; the two bays becoming one, and thelittle town scarcely dividing them. The grandeur of the semicircular range of mountains, generally steeped in glorious sunshine, also comes out in broad outline. These mountains

positively appear to all but encircle the Mentonian amphitheatrein their arms, to thus separate it and its inhabitants from the

world at large, and to present it to the blue Mediterraneanwaves and to the warm southern sunshine.

“ Behind the mountains whichthus form the background ofthe Mentonian valleys, are still higher mountains, rising insuccessive ranges to an altitude of from to feet.

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2 58 THE R I V IERA

7° Fahr. below freez ing point without be ing seriou slyaffected , but the lemon tree is much more sensit ive, andis k i l led by it may also perish

‘by over-much moisturein the atmosphere. When a sharp frost sets in

,the

owners of a plantat ion of oranges o r lemons are in d i realarm

,and l ight fi res in the groves , strewinggreen leaves

and grass over the flames to produce smoke,which

to a considerable extent prevents rad iation,and the

temperature fal l ing too l ow.

The l emon tree flowers throughout the year, neverrest ing, flower and fru i t being on the tree at the samet ime. On no other part ofthe coast do these trees growas freely as they do at Mentone and Bordighera . Butthere are no ancient lemon trees

,as about once in thirty

five years a bitter winter sets in , and the poor treesperish .

The orange tree flowers once only in the year,and

bears but as ingle crop . The fru it ripens in autumn andwinter. We

,i n England , never have the orange in its

perfection,as it i s picked when green or turn ing golden

and ripens in the cases in which it is packed . But forthe orange to be in perfect ion , l usc ious and sweet, i tshou ld be left on the tree ti l l the end of Apri l

,or even

into May. I t i s a beaut ifu l s ight, during the winter, tosee the orange groves l aden with their glorious fru it.The most del ic ious oranges are those with thin skins ,the Mandarin or Tangerine, which ripen earl ier than dothe Portuguese thick-skinned species .The history of Mentone is no t of great interest, and

i t may be dismissed in a few words . Mentone and rockperched Roquebrune belonged to the Prince of Monaco.

The Grimald i , John I I . , having quarrel led with Genoa,appealed for he lp to the Duke ofSavoy, and to b uy this

PAS S ION MYSTERY 2 59

help,in 1448 ceded these two places tohim for an annual

rent of 200 gold florins. However, the Grimaldi gotthis territory back again , but lost i t i n 1 848 , whenMentone and Roquebrune revolted against the fiscalburdens imposed on them by the Prince , and declaredthemselves independent republ ics . The President of

the Republ ic of Mentone was Charles Trenca, who diedin 1 853. F inally

,in 1 860

,both p laces were united to

France,and the claims of the Prince of Monaco were

bought off for the sum of four m i l l ion francs .There is l i ttle of architectural interest in Mentone.

The church,buil t in 1 6 19, and added to in 167 5, i s in the

tasteless style of the period,bu t tower and spire are

effective from a d istance. I n the church is preserved aprocessional cross

,the staff of which is formed out of a

Turkish lance taken by Prin ce Honoré I . of Monaco, inthe battle of L epanto , 1 57 1 . But if Mentone be somewhat deficient in picturesque features, the same cannotbe said of Roquebrune

,which for so many centuries

shared its fortunes . I t is dom inated by the castl e of

the Lascaris. A t Roquebrune,every year

,on the first

S unday in August, the Mystery of the Pass ion isrepresented in a procession that i l lustrates the variou sscenes of the portentous tragedy. I t starts from thechapel of ND . de la Pansa

,on the east s ide of the l i ttle

town , a chapel decorated with frescoes of the fifteenthcentury. The narrow streets

,passing under vaults, the

quaintness of the houses,above al l the superb panorama

commanded by Roquebrune,make i t a place merit ing

a vis it.S til l more quaint and picturesque is Castel lar

,forming

a quadri lateral fortress,planted on a plateau commanding

two val leys . I t is composed of three long parallel

2 60 THE R I V IERA

streets . The exterior of the vi l lage or town is the wal lthat encloses the place

,and the houses thus form the

wal l , and look outward only through eyelet holes.Turrets flank the angles . The chapel of S . Sebastiani s romanesque. Here al so the Lascaris had a palace.Castel lar stands feet above the‘ sea. We canhardly real ise ti l l how late a period the pirates of theMed iterranean were a scourge to

'

this coast,and forced

the nat ives to bu ild every vi l lage and town in a placenot eas i ly accessible

,and form of it a fortress .

For many centuries fi rst the Saracens , then the Turksand Moors of Tun is and A lgiers, ravaged this coast . Notso much for gold and s i lver— for of this the poor fishermen

,shepherds

,and ti l lers of the soi l had none

,but to

captu re slaves . The women were handsome and themen able-bod ied .

“ There are st i l l men l iving at Mentone, says Dr.

Bennet,

“ who in the early part ofthis centu ry 19th)were sei zed on the coast by Moors , and subsequentlyl ived for years as slaves at A lgiers and Tunis.

” I ndeed,

piracy reigned supreme on the Mediterranean unti l theyear 1 8 16

,when L ord Exmouth bombarded A lgiers ;

but it was not final ly stamped out ti l l the conquest ofA lgiers by the French in 1 830. When L ord Exmouthbombarded A lgiers, there were thousands of Christ ianslaves

,mostly captured on the R iviera, serving i n the

A lgerine gal leys . I t was against the sudden descent ofthese pirates that the watch towers were erected along thecoast

,which may be seen at in tervals as far as Genoa.

A t Castel lar, on the Place de la Mairie, i s given onJanuary 20th, every year, an open -ai r bal l which windsup the series of festivi ties

,rel igious and secular, ac

corded in honour of the patronal saint, S . S ebastian .

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2 6 2 THE R I V IERA

and tool s,remains of hearths and charcoal

,and human

skeletons.I t has been dug into by many and variou s explorers,

and not always with j udgment, and with precise recordof the depths at which variou s d iscoveries have beenmade.The present proprietor u sed the soil for the purpose

of making a garden , and i t was only when he cameupon human remains that it o ccurred to him that hecould turn the cavern Into a show place

,and get more

ou t of i t in that way than he cou ld by growing cabbagesin the soi l removed from it. I n these caves a cons iderable number of skeletons have been found in the fi rst

,

the Grotte des Enfants , two bodies were d iscovered ofchildren of s ix and four years o ld, lying at a depth ofeight feet

,s ide by side. They had evidently been

clothed in l i ttle lo in - clo ths embroidered with piercedshel l s .I n the fourth cave

,the Grotte du Cavi l lon

,was found

the skeleton of an adu l t twenty feet below the surface,

lying on his left s ide , the cheek resting on the left hand ,and the head and body had been dusted over with redochre

,which had stained the bones . The head had

been covered with a sort of cap made of,or adorned

with,perforated shel ls and dogs

’ teeth,and simi lar

ornaments must have been stitched on to garters abouthis legs .The s ixth cave, Bausso da Torre

,furn ished two

bod ies of adults and one of a chi ld , and with thesewere fl in t weapons , bracelets , and necklets of shel ls .I n 1 884 M . L ou is J u l ien found a human skeleton

lying at a depth of twenty-five feet , the head bedded in

red ochre, and near i t numerous flakes of fl int . S ince

PREH I STOR IC MEN 2 63

then others have been found , and the present proprietorhas preserved them in sitn

,under glass, i n the cave, at

the precise levels at which discovered: I n 1 892 , threewere found

,al l lying on thei r left s ides . One of these had

pertained to a young woman . All three had beenburied along with their personal ornaments , and al l withthe ferruginous powder over them .

Fi nal ly,i n 1 894 , another human skeleton was un

earthed at a higher level and soon after again another.All these interments belong to man at a period before

the use of metals was known , and when the only toolsemployed were of bone and fl int. The purpose of

covering them with red oxide was to give to the bodiesa fictitious appearance of l i fe . The men were of a

great s ize, tal l and wel l bu i l t, tal ler indeed than are thenatives of the R iviera at the present day and the headsare wel l developed— the sku l ls contained plenty ofbrains, and there is nothing s im ian about the faces .A l ittle prehistori c museum has been bu i lt on a

platform near the caves , where most of the rel ics foundin them are preserved ; but some are i n the museum atMentone itself.

CHAPTER XVI

BORD IGHE'

RA

Ventimiglia Internecine conflicts Republics Genoa ob tains theLigurian coast— Siege of Ventimiglia—Guelfand Ghibellines—TheLascaris family : Paul Louis Lascaris—The Cathedral and Bap tistery—S . Michaele- Camporosso—Dolceacqua—Bordighera—SanAmpelio—Relics— Re treat of the sea.

ENTIM IGL IA, crown ing a rocky ridge above the

Roya , was formerly the capital of a county compris ing of al l the coast to Porto Maurizio. WhatMr. Adington Symonds says of I tal ian towns general lyi n the Middle Ages appl ies equal ly to those on theR iviera

“ It would seem as though the most ancient furies ofantagonistic races, enchained and suspended for centuriesby the magic of Rome, had been unloosed as thoughtheindigenous popu lations, tamed by antique cu lture, were re

verting to their p rimeval instincts . Nor is this the end of

the perp lexity . Not only are the cities at war witheachother,but they are p lunged in ceaseless strife within the c ircu it of

their ramparts . The peop le withthe nobles, the burghs withthe castles, the p lebeians with the burgher aristocracy, themen of commerce withthe men of arms and ancient lineage,Guelfs and Ghibellines

,clash together in persistent fury.

One half the city expels the other half. The exiles roamabroad

,cement alliances, and return to extirpate their con

2 64

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2 66 THE R IV IERA

to revolts and fight ing in the streets . On the L iguriancoast, the Republ ic ofGenoa stepped in , took advantageofthese c ivi c broi ls

,and

,by plau sible assurances of good

government under her st rong hand , managed to getnearly the whole seaboard , with its towns, under her protection. The protection Genoa afforded soon tu rned toexaction and interference with the l iberties of the townsshe protected . Thenceforth ensued a series of revol ts .Ventimigl ia, which was a place under the ru le of i ts

count,was taken and sacked by the Genoese in 1 140,

and its count constrained to make submiss ion . Themouth of the Roya

,with its harbou r

,excited the j ealousy

and ambition of Genoa,as d id in l ike manner N i ce and

Vil lefranche ; for Genoa desired to monopol ise the wholeof the trade of the Mediterranean along the L IgurIancoast and Cors ica . A l l ies and friend ly towns couldtraflic freely with Genoa ; but the ships of independentstates were taxed

,and their freights almost crushed by

onerous duties , befo re they cou ld enter the port . Thesea-coast towns l ike Ventimigl ia and Villefranche, notunder Genoese control

,were a hindrance to the control

and monopoly of the entire trade by the graspingRepubl ic , consequently the Genoese were persistent inthei r attempts to force them to submiss ion .

In,

1 196 the count and the Genoese combined againstthe city ofVentimigl ia , and fai l ing, i n spite of a s iegeof two months , to capture the town , they organised aleague of the whole of L iguria against the gal lant andresolute place. The al l ies establ ished thei r camp on theCape of S . Ampelio and ravaged the country, bu t cou ldnot reduce Ventimigl ia. Then the Genoese spread areport that a large V entimiglian galley which had been

cru is ing off the Span ish coast had been captured , and

S IEGE OF VENT IM IGL IA 2 67

that all the crew would be hung unless the town surrendered . The V entimiglians, in great alarm for theirkinsmen

,submitted

,and the Genoese entered and took

possess ion of the town .

I n the year 1 2 38 ensued a general r is ing in placesof importance along the coast occasioned by the intolerable exactions of Genoa

,and its interference with the

l iberties of the towns. The governor of Ventimigl iatook refuge in the castle and sent a messenger to Genoafor help.

Fourteen Genoese gal leys were despatched to his aid ,and hovered about the mouth of the Roya. A fter asevere confl ict

,the Genoese succeeded in landing and

taking the city. A t this time a number of the citizensmigrated and founded a colony at Bordighera, but ofthis the Genoese d isapproved

,and they sent a fleet in

1 2 39 and destroyed the l ittle settlement . The contestsof Guelfs and Ghibel l ines broke out, to aggravate thed isorder and misery of the country.

S ome clear-headed men saw that I taly was , l ike ancientGreece, a congeries of confl icting atoms with no bond , noconsistence

,and no chance of becominga nation , a power,

that no chance existed of domestic stri fe being stayedunless there were some strong central government tohold al l the jarring elements in compulsory qu ietude.They looked back to the grand days of Rome, andhoped

,under an emperor

,to make of I taly once again

what she had been,a dominant power in the world

,and

one in which,within her I tal ian borders

, peace would bemaintained . This was the Ghibel l ine dream and pol icy.

But the oppo sed faction was for the maintenance of thepresent d is integration , the continuance of the independence of every l ittle town , or rather of its own party

2 68 THE R I V IERA

i n the town . The Pope natu ral ly was zealous on thiss ide. He dreaded an un ited and strong I taly, whichwould control him . His only chance of occupying themo st prominent place and exerting the greatest powerin the Pen in sula lay in fomenting d isorder, i n settingevery princel ing and every town by the ears . A ccordingly, whilst posturing as champion of the l ibertiesof the republ ics

,he was actuated solely by sel f- interest,

which lay in keeping al l powers i n I taly weak byperiodical blood- lett ing. The Papacy was the great andpers istent enemy to national unity. The party ofindependence was that of the Guel fs .Frederick I I . united the empire and the kingdom of

the Two Sicilies under one sceptre . Master ofthe S outh,he sought ,

to recover the lost prerogatives of the empirein L ombardy and Tuscany

,and i t is probable that he

wou ld have succeeded and consol idated I taly into onekingdom but for the bitter hosti l ity of the Papacy, whichcarried on an implacable war of extermination againstthe house of Hohenstaufen . The struggle was for anun ited I taly

,a strong I taly

,a peacefu l I taly

,and this

was prec isely what the Popes wou ld not endure to have.

They dreaded the formation of a s ingle kingdom inI taly

,with

,as a consequence

,the presence there of a

r ival and predominan t power. But this purpose of thePopes was not seen clearly at the time. Dante saw i t ;he knew that the future of I taly was involved in thecontest

,and he cou ld not understand aloofness in the

stri fe. He terms those who d id not feel the pangs andecstasies of partisanship in this mortal stri fe

,wretches

who never l ived,

” and he consigned them to wanderhomeless on the sk irts ofl imbo, among the off- scouringsof creat ion .

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2 70 THE R I VIERA

munitions to the Provencal troops occupying the k ingdom of Naples .The county of Tende was founded by Charles of

Anjou for the Princess I rene,daughter of Theodore

Lascaris, and'

sister of the above-mentioned Wi l l iam,

when she married Robert Guerra of the fami ly of theCounts ofVentimigl ia, and Robert then abandoned hispatronymic of Guerra and assumed that of Lascaris.

The coun ty of Tende subs isted t i l l 1 579, and was thenceded by Henrietta

,Duchess of Maine

,last descendant

of the Lascaris-Guerra to Emmanuel -Phil ibert,Duke of

S avoy.

Theodore Lascaris I . had married A nna , daughter ofA lex is I I I . , and he was chosen Emperor of Constantin0ple at the time when the Crusaders occupied Byzantiumand founded there a L atin empire, under Baldwin of

Flanders,1 204 Theodore was constrained to fly into

Anatol ia and make of Nicma the capital of the Greekempire so i t remained ti l l the expuls ion of the L atinsi n 1 26 1 . The only daughter of Theodore Lascaris I .married John Ducas

,who succeeded to the Empire of

N icaea . Ducas d ied in 1 2 55, l eaving a son , TheodoreLascaris I I . , who d ied in 1 2 59, and his eight-year-old sonJ ohn remained to be the victim o f the unscrupu lousM ichael Palaeologus , who had his eyes torn out . ThisJohn had, however, five s isters

,and one of these

,

Eudoxia , in 1 2 63 married Wi l l iam ,Count of Venti

m igl ia ; and another, I rene, became, as already said , themother and ancestress of the Lascaris Counts ofTende.The Lascaris arms are : gules, a two -headed eagle d isplayed

,or.

. Paul L ouis Lascaris, who entered the Order of Malta,belonged to the Ventimiglian branch of the family.

VENT IM IGL IA 2 7 1

He was born in Provence in 1 774. He was on the islewhen Napoleon appeared before Malta in 1 798 . Hornpesch was Grand Master

,a weak old man the

knights of the Order might easily have defended theisland ti l l the Engl ish fleet under Nelson came to i tsaid

,but French gold and promises had created a party

of traitors within ; of these Lascaris was chief, and on

June 1 1 th La Valetta capitulated.

“ On my word ,”

said General Caffarel l i,

“ i t i s wel l that there was someone inside to unlock the gates to us , for otherwise weshould never have go t i n .

”

A fter his treason Lascaris did not venture to remainin Malta

,but attended Bonaparte to Egypt. Upon the

rupture of the Treaty of Amiens i n 1 803 , Napoleon ,having resolved on attacking the Engl ish in India, commissioned Lascaris to go to the East, there make thenecessary studies for the execution of his plan

,and

explore the frontiers , map down roads,wel ls

, e tc.

Whil st L ascaris was in the East he married a beautifu lGeorgian akin to Sol iman Pacha. I n 1 8 10 he visitedin succession the A rab tribes in Mesopotamia

,and

turned his face homewards in 1 8 14. On reaching Constantinople he heard of the fal l of Bonaparte, and departed for Cairo, where he d ied shortly after, and al lhis notes and maps fel l into the hands of the Britishconsu l there. A ll known of his adventu res in the Eastcomes from a narrative given to the world by hisdragoman Fatalba.

.Ventimigl ia is not on ly in itsel f a marvel of picture squeness , occupying a ridge above the Roya, but itssituat ion , with the sea before

'

and the snow-clad A lpsbeh ind , i s exquis itely beau t i ful .The streets are narrow, as space was precious , but

2 7 2 THE R I V IERA

the S trada Grande is l ined with quaint old houses of

the ci ty nobil ity and wel l - to -do citi zens,and have

marble balcon ies,thei r scu lptured entrances

,and herald ic

decorations . The cathedral occupies a terrace,with the

palace of the Lascaris having an open loggia and staircase on one s ide of the piazza. The cathedral

,ded icated

to S . Barnabas , fond ly deemed to have founded it, i s afine church of the thirteenth century

,vau lted without

groin ing ribs . Beneath it , at the east end , i s the veryearly baptistery, unhappily remodel led in the seventeenthcentury. This contains a huge stone baptismal basin ,with stage inside on which chi ld ren could stand , whereasi t i s deep in the m idd le for adul ts . Two recesses areat the s ides ; one of these i s for the priest perform ingthe ceremony. I n the vestries are portraits of thebishops

,several in surpl ice and rochet

,looking very

much l ike Engl ish prelates .But more interesting even than the cathedral i s

S . Michaele, at the farther end of the town , a churchof the twelfth century, with a rich west doorway, havingon the capital s a range of quaint carving of humanbeings . The church is vaul ted in the same manner asthe cathedral . Beneath the choir i s a crypt

,one pi llar

of which is a milestone from the Via A urel ia, of thet ime of the Emperor A nton inus . A slab in the floorbears rich early interlaced work .

The s ide aisles of this church had fal len into ru in,

but have been j ud iciously restored , along with the body

of the church .

Outside the wall s of the town , towering above i t, arethe remains of a castle

,which is held to date from

Roman times , but which was enlarged , al tered , and

mainly rebu il t in med iaeval days .

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DOLCEACQUA

DOLCEACQUA 2 73

A t Camporosso, up the Nervia, i s a l i ttle church of theearly part of the twelfth century, now servingas chapel tothe cemetery. I t has apse and tower of this period therest has been rebui l t. I t is constructed of rol led stonesfrom the r iver-bed . The roof consi sts of slabs of

nummul ite l imestone.

Above Camporosso on the Nervia i s Dolceacqua .

“ After winding throughwoods of olives, carpeted in springby young corn and bright green flax

,Dolceacqua suddenly

bursts upon the view,stretching across a valley, whose sides

are coveredwithforests of olives and chestnuts, andwhichisbacked by fine snow mountains. Through the town windsthe deep blue stream of the Nervia, flowing under a tallbridge of one wide arch, and above frowns the huge palatialcastle, perched upon a perpendicular cliff, with sunlightstreaming throughits long l ines of glassless windows. Thestreets are almost closed in witharchways, whichgive themthe look ofgloomy crypts, only openinghere and there to letin a ray of sunlight and a strip of blue sky. They lead upthe steep ascent to the castle where the Doria once reignedas sovereign princes.

” 1

An electric tram connects Ventim igl ia with Bordi

ghera. This latter place is unceremon iously d ismissedby Hare in these words : “ The town contains nothingworth se eing. The statement i s certainly incorrect. OldBordighera contains a good deal that is worth seeingthe quaint town gates, the steep and picturesque streets,and the glorious V iew from the l ittle piazza before thechurch . There also by the seaside is the chapel ofS .

‘Ampel io with i ts cave,in which the apostle of the

d istrict l ived and d ied .

L ittle authentic is known of S . Ampel io,for there

is no early l i fe of him extant. T rad ition says that he1 HARE

, Cities of Nort/zern

l

ltaly , i. p . 34.

2 74 THE R I V IERA

was a blacksmith from .the Thebaid,who left Egypt and

settled here . His bones were carried off in the twelfthcentury to San Remo , and thence later to Genoa . Thetéte of S . Ampel io is on May 14th . The chapel wasenlarged and restored in 1 852 .

The transfer of the rel ics of S . Ampel io to San Remoexhibits a curious feature of med iaeval enthusiasm.

. In

1 140 the citizens of San Remo , at war with Ventimigl ia ,took a number of the townsmen prisoners . -They wouldrelease them on one cond it ion on ly

,that they should re

veal where were secreted the bones ofS . Ampel io . TheV entimiglians, to obtain thei r l iberty

,betrayed the

secret ; the old hermit had been laid i n the grotto hehad inhabited during his l i fe . Thereupon the people ofSan R emo carried off his bodyWhat i s the pecu l iar fancy for possessing a few

pounds of phosphate of l ime ? -Whence comes thedevotion to rel ics ?

S . Chrysostom tel l s u s of pilgrims travel l ing from theends of the earth to A rabia to see Job ’s dunghil l , andhe says that they drew “ much profit and phi losophyfrom the s ight.One can understand how that certain churches shoul d

be greedy to possess rel i cs , and steal , or even inventthem

,because the possess ion brought money into thei r

coffers but the money would not have come had therenot been

,deep - seated in the hearts of the people, a

conviction'

that there was something supernatural,a

d ivine power surrounding and emanating. from these

rel ics .For . my own part I think it i s a survival of the

worship of ancestors that existed among the prehistoricraces ofEurope. We know that to them the sepulchre,

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RETREAT OF THE SEA 2 75

the dolmen,the k istvaen

,the cairn , were the most holy

spots in the world,the centres of thei r common l ife, the

t ie that bound a clan together. When these primevalpeople became absorbed in conqueringraces , and adoptedother rel igions , they carried alongwith them the cu lt ofold bones and ashes . The ancestor was forgotten , andthe spir itual father

,the sain t

,took his place

,and the

worship of the dead was transferred from the ancestorof the tribe to the apostle of the new rel igion in thed istrict .Bordighera was founded in 1470 by thirty- two famil ies

,

who m igrated to it from Ventimigl ia . There was,how

ever,at the time some portion of walls standing,

andthese new settlers completed the enclosu re, and squattedwithin .

A t one time, perhaps even then , the sea came upto the foot ofthe rock

,where are now orange and lemon

orchards,but the current that sets from west to east

along this coast fi l led it up . On d igging, the old seashore is found , and the name Bordighera signifies acreek provided with stakes and nets for catching fish.

Bord ighera is happy in having had an exhaustivehistorian

,Mr. F. F . Ham i l ton (Bordighera and the

Western R iviera, L ondon , and this work is sup

p lemented by Mr.W. S cott’s R othVillages of theRiviera,

L ondon , 1 898 , by which he means the vi l lages bu i l tupon rocky heights . He describes only such

,however

,

as are near Bordighera . This book wil l be a help tosuch as des ire to make excursions from that winterresort, and these two works together render i t unnecessary for me to enter more ful ly into the history ofVentim igl ia and its offspring Bord ighera, and into minutedescription of them and their neighbourhood .

CHAPTER XVI I

SAN REMO

Two San Remos—The Pinecone—Earthquakes—Matuta—Sold to theGenoese—Church of S. Syro -Domestic architecture unchangingNarrow streets—Leprosy—San Romolo—Lampedusa—River namesTaggia - Doctor Antonio—Home of Ruffini—The Bresca familyRaising ofthe ob elisk in the piaz z a ofS . Peter—Palms—How bleached— The date -

palm.

HERE are two San Remos,that of tod ay

,with

its pretentiou s vi l las rival l ing each other in ugl iness

,and the old San Remo . The former is clean

,

withopen spaces, a broad main street, and i s dotted aboutwith palms and agaves in sub-tropical gardens. Theold San Remo i s a network , a labyrinth of narrow

,

tortuous lanes . This old portion goes by the name of

la Pigna,the P inecone

,because of the manner in which

the ancient hou ses are grouped , pressed together one onanother, ris ing towards a culminating con ical po i nt.The old town is bu i l t upon a hi l l that descends gently

to the sea, and whose summit i s crowned by a sanctuary.

The streets twist about, are steep, with steps , and pavedwith bricks o r rol led stones . The old houses elbow one

another away to ge t a l ittl e breath, or sustain themselvesfrom fal l ing by stretching out a flying buttress, each

against i ts o zZrJo‘

z-vis, l i ke tipsy men with l inked armshoping to keep thei r feet by mutual suppo rt. For al lthis coast i s l iable to be shaken by earthquakes. D iano

2 76

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MATUTA 2 77

Marina was the central point of one in February , 1 887 ,that shook down half the V i l lage. Baiardo was com

ple telyruined,and church and houses have al l been rebu i l t.Numerous l ives were lost on this occasion . This portionof the R iviera, though more shel tered than the FrenchCote d’

A zur,cannot boast the beauty ofmountain outline.

I t is only when a river comes down from the A lps thata view of the snowy peaks is obtained up its course.

The rock is al l l imestone and conglomerate, and theslopes are terraced and studded with ol ives . The

general t ints have a sameness and dulness that is notfound on the French R iviera . The hil l s seem to havebeen enveloped in sai l -cloth and rol led in powderedsage- leaves . San Remo l ies in the lap of a crescentbay, ofwhich Cap Verde on the West and Cap Nera onthe East are the two horns . I t faces the South, anda double reef of mountains to the North arrests thewinds from that cold quarter of the heavens . Theshelter thus afforded , the focuss ing of the sun ’s rays onthis spot , and the ferti l ity of the soil , un ite to make thevegetation luxuriant and varied .

By the shore we haVe orange and lemon groves, thedel icious mandarin orange, and the pomegranate, tropicpalms , agaves , and cactus m ingled with cedars . Higherup are ol ive gardens, chestnuts . Tenens media omnia

silt/d ,

” the pine woods stret ch to the top of the hil l s thatengi rd le San Remo.

M . Reclus observes

Strange to say, trees do not ascend to the same he ight onthese slopes of the Apennines as on the A lps, thoughthe meantemperature is far higher ; and at an altitude at which thebeechstil l attains noble proportions in Switzerland we find ithere stunted in growth. Larches are hardly ever seen . The

2 78 THE R I V IERA

sea is as sterile as the land. There are neither shallows,islands, nor seaweed, affording shelter for fish. The cl iffsdescend p recip itously to the sea, and the narrow strip s ofbeach, extending from promontory to p romontory, consist ofsand only, without the admixture of a single shell .

The ancien t name of the pl ace was Matuta,but i t had

been destroyed again and again by the S aracens ti l lthe year

‘

1 038, when the Count of Ventimigl ia madethe place over to the A rchbishop of Genoa ; he disposedof i t to two nobles

,Doria and Mari . But the Dorias

were Ghibel l ine and the Maris belonged to the opposedfac tion , lead ing to terrible broi ls . F inal ly

,i n I 36 1 the

Genoese Republ i c became sole possessors . The towntook the name of S . Romulus

,as possessing the bones

of that saint,and the old name of Matuta fel l into

desuetude. S ain t Romulus has been altered and corrup ted i nto San Remo . Doubtless whilst under theru le of the A rchbishop of Genoa the interesting churchof S . Syro was bu i l t . The style is L ombard ic Romanesque. I t was frightful ly muti lated in or about 1 620

,

when the apse was altered and lengthened, and a hideou sbaroque fagade was erected , l i ke the canvas -paintedfrontage to a show in a fair. A t the same time theinterior featu res were d isgu ised under plaster and paint.I n 1 745 an Engl ish fleet bombarded San Remo , and theSpire was knocked to pieces and replaced by a hideousstructu re. But recently a complete restorat ion has beeneffected ; the facade has been pul led down , reveal ing theoriginal features , and the whole, external ly and internal ly,treated with such scrupu lous fidel ity to what was theoriginal style , that the resul t i s that the church of S . Syroi s now one of the finest monuments of Christ ian art onthe R iviera .

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ARCH ITECTURE 2 79

.The visitor from the north of Europe i s perplexedhow to determine approximately the dates of the domestic bu i ld ings in every one of these L igurian townsand vi l lages . The architecture has a modern look , andyet the houses are decrepit

,ruinous , and shabby. The

windows and doors are square-headed,with scarce a

moulding to d ifferentiate them,and the pointed arch

is only seen in the bridges that t ie the houses together.Rarely ,

only in some palace or town hal l , does the

swallow-tai l crenelation,or a feeble imi tat ion of Gothic

corn ice,speak of the Middle Ages . The fact is that the

streets are so narrow that there is no room for d isplayof street architecture in these lanes

,only de sac, and

thoroughfares , that al low no wheeled conveyance to passup and down . The houses set their noses against eachother and stare into each other’s eyes . There is noprivacy there

,not even in smel ls. I f a man eats garl ic ,

every one sn iffs i t in the house opposite . I f a womanadmi n isters a cu rtain lecture

,al l the occupants of the

houses vis -d-vis prick up their ears,l isten to every word ,

and mark every intonation of voice. I nto no s ingl eroom has the sun looked for a thousand years

,and air

has been but grudgingly adm itted , and never al lowed tocirculate. The houses run up five

,s ix

,even seven

storeys , and are tenanted by many fam i lies . Thosenearest the pavement partake of the fi rst whiff of the

garbage of the street,the dejections of the tenants in

the tenements above ; and those in the topmost storeyinhale the flavour of stale human ity ascending from al lthe flats below.

But to revert to the architecture. I do not supposethat it has altered s ince classic t imes . We know howi t was in Rome among the insuld ,

blocks of dwel l ings

2 80 QTHE R IV IERA

crowding thedensely o ccupied lower parts of the town,

runn ing Up to great heights , and swarming with pe oplel iving on the

'

several stages . The palaces of the nobil i ty,

where facing the street, l oo ked l ike the fronts ofmodernfactories . Happi ly, i n Rome one suchr emains

,in the

wal l of the church of SS . John and Paul , on the MonteCl ivo . I t i s a lofty red -brick front

,without an orna

ment, pierced formerly with square -headed windows orwindows very sl ightly arched with bricks, prec isely sucha face as may be seen to a factory in a s ide lane ofManchester, Birm ingham ,

or L eeds .The Roman noble kept al l h is decoration for the

inside of his house ; his colonnade was towards hisenclo sed garden ,hismarbles about his atrium ; external lyh is mans ion was a barrack . Pointed architecture neverwas assim ilated by the I tal ian . He endured i t ; he usedi t fo r churches

,always with a difference. But for his

home he would have none of i t. He was su rrounded byremains of the period of Roman domination over theworld

,vast structures, sol id and enduring. Temples

fel l and were despoi led to decorate churches , but privatedwel l ings

,though they might be gutted , cou ld not be

defaced,when they had no face to be muti lated. Vandal ,

L ombard , S aracen , swept over the land,burnt and

pil laged , but left the sol id wall s stand ing to be re - roofedand re -occupied after they were gone. Nothing but therecu rrent earthquake affected these structures . And

when a house was shaken down it was rebu i l t on thesame l ines . I f a bit of ornament were desired i t wascopied

,and badly copied

,from some rel ic of class ic t imes.

Consequently there has been incessant reproduction ofone type. Thus al l these old L igurian towns and vi l lagesappear as if bu i l t at one and the same time, in one and

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LEPROSY 2 8 1

the same style,and al l to have fal len s imultaneously into

the same d isorde r, d irt, and raggedness .Near to S . Syro is a hospital for leprosy, a disease

which long l ingered on in San Remo . Happily i t hasd isappeared— at al l events from this town— and in 1 883

the bu i ld ing became the Civi c Hospital . But leprosy isby no means extinct on the L igurian coast ;“ it is hopelessly incurable, the limbs and the faces of thelepers being gradually eaten away, so that withseveral , whileyou look upon one side of the face, and see it apparently inthe bloom of healthand youth, the other has already fallenaway and ceased to exist. The disease is hereditary, havingremained in certain famil ies of this district almost from timeimmemorial . The members of these families are prohibitedfrom intermarrying with those of others, or indeed frommarrying at all , unless it is believed that they are free fromany seeds of the fatal inheritance. Sometimes the marriages,when sanctioned by magistrates and clergy, are contracted insafety, but often, after a year or two of wedded life, theterrible enemy appears again, and existence becomes a curse ;thus the fearful legacy is handed ou .

”— HARE .

The marvel is that plague, leprosy, and typhoid feverare not endemIc In these L igurian towns . But thewinter vis itor to San Remo may be at ease

,he wil l see

no lepers in the place now. Should a case occur, itwould at once be removed out of sight.A s already said , San Remo takes its name from

S . Romulus, a bishop , whose festival is on October 1 3th .

A lmost nothing i s certain ly known of this B ishop ofGenoa, who is thought to have died in the year 350.

The story goes that in old age he retired from hischarge to a cave or Barma in the mountains , abou tfive miles from San Remo . Here formerly was a

2 8 2 THE R I V IERA

Benedict ine convent , now the very modern bui lding i soccupied by si sters , and the cave of S .

‘

Romolo has beenconverted into a church with an ugly facade. On thefete day plenty of Sanremois vis it the shrine, some outof devotion , some for the sake of a picn ic, and manyfrom mixed motives .But the most del ightfu l excursion that may be made

from San Remo is to L ampedusa,above the Taggia.

For that no better gu ide can be had than Ruffini’

s

del ightful novel , Dr. Antonio .

A broad, smooth road, Opening from Castellaro northwards, and stretching over the side of the steep mountains incap ricious z ig

-zags, now conceals, now gives to V iew,the front

of the sanctuary, shaded by two oaks of enormous dimensions.The Castellini, who made this road in the sweat of their brows,point it out withp ride, and well they may. They tell you withinfinite comp lacency how every one of the pebbles withwhichit is pavedwas brought from the sea-shore

,those who hadmules

using them for that purpose, those who had none bringingup

loads on their own backs how every one, gentleman and

peasant, young and old, women and boys, worked day andnight withno other inducement than the love of the Madonna.

The Madonna of Lampedusa is their creed, their occupation,their p ride, their carroccio, their fixe

’

d’

idea.

“All that relates to the miraculous image, and the date andmode of its translation to Castellaro, is given at full lengthintwo inscrip tions, one in Latin, the other in bad I talian verses,whichare to be seen in the interior of the little chapel of thesanctuary. Andrea Anfosso , a native of Castellaro, beingthe cap tain of a privateer, was one day attacked and defeatedby the Turks, and carried to the Isle of Lampedusa. Here hesucceeded in makinghis escape, andhidinghimself until theTurkish vessel whichhad capturedhim left the island. Anfosso ,

being a man of expedients, set about building a boat, and

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TH 'E R I V IERA

Ever and anona tardy pomegranate in full blossom spreads outits oriflamme of tul ip-shaped dazzling red flowers . From therising ground Opposite frowns mediaeval Taggia, like a discontented guest at a sp lendid banquet. A little farther off

westward, the eye takes in the campanile of the Dominicanchurch

,emerging from a group of cypresses, and farther still,

on the extreme verge of the western cliff, the sanctuary ofOurLady of the Guardia shows its white silhouette against thedark blue sky.

The name of the river Taggia i s synonymous with Tay,

Taw , Tavy ; as the Roya is akin to the I ri sh Rye , theS panish R iga. The Neva that m ingles its waters withthe A rrose tta

,has a cognate Neva in Russia , a Nahe in

Germany,a Never in Wales , and a d im inu t ive N ivel le

in France . The brawl ing L oup does not take its namefrom a wolf. I t is misspel led through a false etymology.

I t should be L ou , l ike the river that enters the Dordogne,and the Devon L ew, the L ee , and L ech by U lm .

Whence come the many s imilar river names of Europe ?They are doubtless the most ancient des ignat ions wehave

,those that have least changed ; they were given by

the earl ies t inhabitants of Europe, and have adhered tothese ever-flowing streams , modified here and there, butalways showing how ancient and primeval they are.

Adam named the beasts,but who— what race— named

the rivers ? I t must have been a race that occupied almostthe whole ofEurope. Was i t those mighty men of old,who l ie smothered in red ochre in Barma Grande byMentone

,or was i t the mysteriou s people who reared the

rude stone monuments,and who have left scanty traces

of thei r lost language embedded in Welsh and I rish ?Taggi a i tsel f surely deserves a visi t from every one

who has read and loved Dr. Antonio ; for there l ived

THE BRESCA FAM I LY 2 8 5

the gifted author Giovann i Ruflini from 1 875 to 1 88 1 ,

the year in which he died . The remains of hi s houseare shown . The church also deserves a vis it, on accoun tof the paintings on wood by Brea and o ther arti sts ofthe fifteenth century. One painting on a gold groundby Brea

,or a d isciple, i n the chapel of the tombs of the

Curlo fami ly,i s spec ial ly noticeable for i ts beauty. . On

the Piazza Umberto I . stands a monument erected in1 896 to the memory of the three Ruflini brothers , whostrove for the unification of I taly.

The s tory of the Bres’

ca family of San Remo acquir

ing the.

privi lege of furn ishing palms to Rome, grantedby S ixtus V. i n 1 586, i s wel l known , but must not beleft unnoticed here.

An obel isk was being elevated In the piazza -beforeS . Peter’s . This obel isk had been brought to Rome fromHel iopol is by Cal igu la , i n a ship which Pl iny describesas being

“ nearly as long as the left side of the port ofOstia .

”S ixtus V. was resolved on Christ ian ising or

demol ishing the rel ics of pagan Rome. The obel isk,

i f set up before S . Peter’s,m ight serve to support a

cross . I t was removed from its place in the Circus ofNero by 800 men and 1 50 horses, under the supervis ionof Domenico Fontana

,who was threatened with death

if he fai led . When it was about to be reared , S ixtusthreatened death to man

,woman

,or child who should

speak whilst the huge mass was being elevated by meansof forty-s ix cranes . The great stone was , slowly risingto its base, when suddenly it ceased to move, and it wasevident that the ropes were yield ing. An awful momentof suspe nse ensued , when the dead si lence was brokenby a shout : “A cqua alle funil

”

(Throw water on theropes ! ) The workmen at once cast bucketful s of the

2 86 THE R I V IERA

l iqu id over the cordage , that at once began to shrink ,and raised the monstrous mass , and settled i t upon itsbaseThe man who saved the obel isk was Bresca

,a sea

captain of a fi shing smack at San Remo. S ixtus V .

inqu ired after h im , and promised h im ,what cost himsel f

nothing, as a reward, that ever thenceforth his fam i lyand his native vi l lage should haVe the privi lege of

furn ishing the palms for S . Peter’s on Palm S unday.

I n o rder to bleach the leaves for this purpose they aret ied up in a way very s im i lar to that employed bymarket gardeners to obtain white centres to lettuces . I tcannot be said that the leaves are made more beautifu lby the process ; on the contrary, they lose what l i ttlebeauty they had . The branches are bound up so as toform a vertical rol l , i n the centre of which are the youngleaves

,that have to struggle up, shut off from l ight

and ai r,with the resul t that s ickly

,ugly strips are

produced,which are sent throughout the Cathol ic world

for use on the Sunday before Easter. Ten thousandtimes preferable are ou r pretty “ palms ,

” the catk inbearing wil low twigs .The date palm is not indigenous . I t was probably

introduced by the Crusaders . I n an i l l ustrat ion to a MS .

of the Geography of S trabo, presented by Guarin i toKing Réné, the king i s shown seated with a ful l -grownpalm tree in the background . I ndeed

,in the tympanum

of the north doorway of S . Syro, at San Remo , i s arepresentat ion of a male and a female palm tree with anAgnus Dei between them .

The date palm i s mult ipl ied by seed and by suckers .This last mode of propagation is the most advantageous ,as al l the plants so produced are females and fru it

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CHAPTER XVI I I

ALASS IO

Admirable site—Old Alassio—ChurchofSan Ambrogio—Palace of theFerreri—Arco Romano—Gallinaria— SaintMartin—Andora—Oneglia—Andrew Doria, the Admiral—Albenga—Retreat ofthe Sea- Proculus—Cathedral—Baptistery— Piaz z a dei Leoni—The Towers—S. Maria

in Fontibus—Garlenda—Beauty ofDrive.

ASS IO fal l s short of other winter resorts in no

degree , i n sweetness of s ituation , shelter fromblustering cold winds, and in abundance of objects ofinterest i n the neighbourhood . I n cl imate

,i n every

thing but one, i t equal s San Remo, B ordighera, and

Mentone. The one thing it lacks i s good shops .A lass io cons ists of one narrow street a mile and a

hal f in length,out of which rad iate towards the sea

passages under arches . I t does not contain,i n itself

,

much of interest. The church and the palace of theFerreri exhaust the place. The church of San Ambrogiohas a tower ofthe thirteenth century, and the old chu rch ,altered

,remains

,with a later church bui l t on to it i n the

south in late renaissance times , that i s d istinctlypleasing

,with i ts white and black marble and blue

grey stucco , between the marble pi lasters .The palace of the Ferreri fami ly, with its rich and

cumbrous gateways scu lptured with the family arms,2 88

ARco ROMANO 2 89

contains fine tapestries,family portrai ts , and rich

furn itu re.

The arms ofthe town are curious argent, a tower outofwhich rises a king crowned and wearing garments redand green .

A favourite excursion from A lass io i s'

to the A rcoRomano, a Roman arch , through which a lovely peep ofthe sea i s obtained . To the east appears the curiou si sle of Gallinaria, shaped l ike a snail , with the ruins of aBened ictine monastery on i t. I n 358, in the midst ofthe war against the Allemanni, when the EmperorJul ian was at Worms

,Martin

,who was in the army, and

a tribune,asked to be released from m i l i tary duty.

Ju l ian was indignant. A battle was immi nent,and he

scornfu l ly refused the petition,and charged Martin with

cowardice. The young tribune repl ied ,“ Put me i n

the forefront of the army,without weapons or armour

,

and prove if I be what you say.

”

However,the Allemanni asked for peace

,i t was

granted , thereupon Martin obtained his d ism i ssal . He

then went to Poit iers and p laced himsel f under theteaching of S . H i lary. Then he departed to vis it h isparents in Pannon ia . As he crossed the A lps he wasattacked by robbers and plundered of al l he had . On

reaching his native city of S abaria, Martin succeeded inconverting his mother to Christ, but his father pers istedin his pagan ism. Then he returned to I taly

,and after

tarrying awhile at Milan , where he was vexed by theA rians , he took refuge on this islet of Gallinaria. Therehe l ived on roots

,and nearly poisoned himsel f by

accidentally eat ing the hel lebore , attracted by its dark

green leaves and pale flowers . Providential ly thespasms caused by the poison came on so rapidly as

U

2 90~THE

'

R IV IERA .

to check him from eating enough to k i l l h im ; but hesuffered great pain , and lay at death

’s door. A cave isshown in the i s land which S . Martin i s traditional ly heldto have inhabited . A fter some soj ourn on Gallinaria,Martin left i t and went back to Poitiers .To vis i t the curious old mountain vi l lage of Andora,

one must leave the train at L aiguegl ia, before i t rushesinto the tunnel pierced through the spu r of rock on

which Andora stands . The church ded icated to S S .

Phi l ip and James i s in L ombard ic Gothic of the fourteenthcentury, and is one of the most interestingmonuments of the style i n L iguria. Above the high altar isa crucifix of carved wood

,the figure of natural s ize,

bel ieved to be sti l l earl ier than the chu rch, which datesfrom 1 34 1

Adjoin ing the church is a tower with swal low-tai lbattlements

,that belonged to the old castle

,but has

now been un ited to the church . There are also atA ndora the ru ins of a feudal castle, the Parasio , theresidence of the Podesta t i l l 1 797 . There are alsoremains ofa Roman aqueduct and a Roman bridge overthe rive r

,sti l l i n good cond ition .

Onegl ia was the birthplace of Andrew Doria, thegreat admiral . I t i s an ugly town ; the pri son is in theshape ofa cro ss, with a huge lantern at the junction ofthe arms l ighted through cockney Gothic windows.The Dorias , Fieschi, Grimald i , and Spinolas were the

fou r principal famil ies of Genoa . S imone Doria , whol ived in 1 2 70, was a T roubadour, and he once had a dispute with L anfranc Cigala as to which was preferable,to deserve the favour of a l ady or to possess i t. Doriamaintained the latter proposition .

“ I d id once sup

pose,”said Lanfranc,

“that meri t carried a lady

’

s

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2 9 2 THE R I V IERA

visa .

‘

The Christian strength was real ly overwhelming.

E ighty Venetians, th irty-s ix Papal and thirty Span ish

gal leys , together with fi fty sail ing gal leons, made up theform idable total of.

nearly two hundred ships of war , andthey carried scarcely less than

. men and

guns . Doria was i n chief command,Capel lo and

Grimano led the Venetian and Roman contingents .On S eptember 2 5th the al l ied fleets appeared off theGulf. Barbarossa had 1 2 2 ships Ofwar.On the morn ing of the 2 7ththe corsai rs were amazed

to see Doria sai l away. Germano and Capel lo went onboard the flagship and u rged Doria to engage the enemy ;they even implored him to depart himsel f

,and al low

them to fight the battle with thei r own ships , but in vain .

The resu lt was practically a victory, and a signal victory,for the Turks . Two hundred sp lendid vessels Of three greatChristian States had fled before an inferior force ofOttomansand it is no wonder that Su ltan Su leyman, when he learnt thenews at Yamb oli, illuminated the town, and added

piasters ayear to the revenues of Barbarossa .

“ It was,” says Brantome, “ a common Opinion at the time

that there existed a secret engagement between Barbarossaand Doria to avoid fighting eachother on decisive occasions,so as to p rolong the war, whichgave bothof them emp loyment, and furnished them withmeans of acquiringwealth.

”

What seems to confirm this was the setting at l ibertyby Doria of the renegade corsai r Dragut, who had beenmade prisoner

,and who was a favourite of Barbarossa,

and a scourge to the Christians.I n 1 547 a conspiracy of the Fieschi almost cost

A ndrew Doria his l ife. His nephew was murdered bythem

,but at the same time Giovann i L u igi Fieschiwas

LANE POOLE, The Barbary Corsairs, p . 104.

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2 94

”

THEi

RIV IERA

fought the Romans in B.C . 20. I t helped Hann ibal withships and men , and when Magone, brother ofH annibal ,was wounded , he reti red to A lbenga to be cured .

A fterwards i t became,but reluctantly

,al l ied to Rome.

I n the times of Probus,A .D . 2 76—2 82 , a native of

A lbenga , named PrOculus,a man of extraord inary

strength, set up to be emperor, but was speed i ly ki l led .

Constantine, a grandee of the Court of Honorius, A .D.

395—42 3, fortified the town , and he i t was who buil t thePonte L ongo , a Roman bridge now sunk

'

to the springof the arches, and deserted by the river, which has com

pletely al tered its course .

A lbenga has a most interesting cathedral Ofthe twelfthcentu ry that has been muti lated and altered internal lyinto a rococo temple. The west front was partly re

moved in renaissance times and rebu il t,cl ums i ly ; but

external ly,the east end with its apses tel l s of the true

antiqu ity of the chu rch . Hard by is what i s sti l l morevenerable : a baptistery

,half buried in the soi l, of the

fi fth (P) century. I t is descended into by fourteen steps , so

greatly has the soi l ri sen s ince it was bui lt . The bu i lding i s octagonal , and had its windows fi l led with pierceds labs of stone ; Of these fi l l ings in on ly two remain , onevery rich

,with carved interlaced work as wel l as with

perforations . Wi thin i s a large font for immers ion , asat Ventimigl ia, and the vaul t i s su stained by eight

gran ite columns , probably taken from a Pagan temple.The altar i s ancient

,enriched with mosaic work repre

senting the Agnus Dei surrounded by twelve doves .A t the east end of the cathedral i s the Piazza dei

L eon i , where are three rude stone l ions , remain s of amonument raised in 1 2 88

,but taken from an earl ier

Roman structure.

GARLENDA 2 95

That which strikes the V is itor especial ly,coming from

France,are the towers of the nobles . “ I ts thirteen

mediaeval towers,

” says Hare,

“ remind the I tal iantravel ler of S . G imignano , ris ing out of the plain l ike anumbe r of tal l n inepins set close together. I do notthink there are thirteen certainly not that number oflofty towers ; but the earthquake of 1 887 damaged , orthrew down

,several .

The finest are the Torre Balestrino,the cathedral

tower,and the Torre del Comune. F ive ofthe Old gates

remain . The church Of S . Maria in Fontibus, i n GenoeseGothic

,striped black and white marble

,takes its name

from a spring that rises under the altar, and was sup

posed to possess m i racu lous powers for the heal ing oflepers.A beautifu l drive from A lbenga up the val ley leads

to Garlenda, where are paintings by Domenichino, aS . Maurus , a Martyrdom of S . E rasmus

,by Poussin and

a Nativity ofOur L ady by Guercino. A t the time of theFrench Revolution

,when the troops were pouring over

the frontier into I taly,the parishioners of Garlenda,

fearful of being robbed of these artistic treasures , removed and hid them.

The road to Garlenda passes through orchards of

peaches and fields of narcissus .

The valley is radiantly beautifu l in spring. Overhead '

are

tall peachtrees withtheir luxuriance of pink blossom . Beneaththese the vines c ling in Bacchanalian festoons, leaping fromtree to tree, and below all large melons, young corn, and bright

green flax, wavinghere and there into sheets of blue flower,

form the carpet of Nature. Sometimes gaily-painted towersand ancient palaz z i, withcarved armorial gateways and archedporticoes, break in upon the solitude of the valley.

”—HARE.

CHAPTER XIX

SAVONA

The city and port—Pope Sixtus IV.—The Della Rovere family—Nepotism

Assassination OfGiuliano diMedici—Methods Offilling the treasury—Sixtus and the Spirituals—Julius II .

- A fighting pope his portraitby Raphael— Pius VII . at Savona : his removal from Rome—Deathof Princess Borgia— Bishop Grossulano—The Margravate of Savona—The Sanctuario— Crowned images— Jacques de Voragine— TheAlbiz z ola Palace : and Gardens—Mme . de Genlis and travelling onCorniche Road—Ruined palaces of Liguria.

AVONA , with i ts port , i ts towers , i ts engirdl ingmountains , and its wide- stretching orange and

lemon orchards,i s a very charm ing town .

The port , with i ts picturesque tower, engages the eyeat once. The cathedral

,bu i lt i n 1 604 , i s in the un

i nteresting style Of that period . I t contains some goodpictures by Brea

,1495, and A urel io Rob ertelli, 1449 ;

and the tomb of the parents of Pope S ixtus IV. whowas a native of Cel le , near S avona. His father was apoor boat or fi sherman cal led del la Rovere ; but it wasthe whim of Francesco del la Rovere

,when he became

Pope under the t itle of S ixtu s IV to be thought ascion of the ancient house of the same name at Turin .

A false pedigree was forged , and he pu rchased thecomplaisance of the Turin fam i ly, and si lenced their j ibes,by giving them two card inal

’s hats . He assumed theirarms—a golden oak tree on an azure ground— whichfigures on the tomb at S avona, and which MichaelA ngelo painted on the roof of the S i stine Chapel , incompl iment to Pope S ixtus and to his nephew Jul ius .

2 96

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2 98 THE R I V IERA

But the favouri te nephew of al l was Pedro Riario ,

whom'

his uncle loaded with ecclesiast ical b enefice s,though aged

'

only five-and - twenty. S candal asserted ,and Muratori bel ieved i t

,that this P ietro was real ly the

son of the POpe . When scarce out of the hobbledehoyage , he was made Card inal Patriarch of Constantinopleand A rchbishop of Florence . His annual in come was

gold florins,i n our money about and

yet when he d ied,broken down by his debaucheries

,i n

1474, three years after he had been made CardinalA rchbishop, he was deep in debt.

He had no virtues,no abilities, nothing but his beauty,

the scandalous affection of the Pope, and the extravagant

profligacy of his own life, to recommendhim to the notice of

posterity. All Italy during two years rangwiththe noise ofhis debaucheries . When Leonora Of Aragon passed throughRome, on her way to wed the Marquess of Ferrara, this fopof a Patriarch erected a pavilion in the Piazza di’ SanteApostole for her entertainment. The air of the banquet hall

‘

was cooledwithpure water ; on a column in the centre stooda naked gilded boy, who poured forthwater from an urn. Theservants were arrayed in si lk, and the seneschal changed hisdress Of richest stuffs and jewels four times in the course ofthe banquet. Nymphs and centaurs, singers and buffoons,drank choice wines from golden goblets Happ ily for theChurchand for Italy, .he exp ired at Rome in January, 14 74,after paradinghis impudent debaucheries through Milan andVenice, as the Pope

’s Legate.”

A nother nephew was Girolamo Riario , who marrieda natu ral daughter of Galeazzo S forza. For him thePope bought the town of Imola with Church money.

He had created him Count of Bosco i n 147 2 . A s Imolad id not content his ambition

,his uncle gave him Forl i ,

PEDRO RIAR IO 2 99

and elevated this boatboy to a dukedom . The youngruffian found that the Medici family stood in the wayof extending his power over Florence , and he formeda plot for their destruct ion . I n the conspi racy wereinvolved Francis d i Pazzi, head of the bank of thatname in Rome

,and Salviati, a F lorentine, A rchbishop

Of Pisa,whose elevation had been Opposed by the

Medic i . The plot was atrocious i t was no less than toassass inate Giul iano and L orenzo d i Medic i i n theduomo at F lorence on Eester Day at high mass. I t hadthe hearty concurrence of him who held the keys ofheaven and hel l . I nto the wicked . confederacy wastaken a Captain Montesecco

,an intimate friend of

Girolamo Riario , the Pope’s nephew, and Bandin i , a

hired murderer. I t was arranged among themthatMontesecco was to poignard G i u l iano

,and Bandin i

was to stab L orenzo ; and the s ignal for the deed wasto be the E levat ion of the Host On the S unday appointed , 1478 , the assass in Montesecco embraced the twoMed ici as they entered the church and assu red himselfby his touch that they were unprotected with coats ofchain -mail , such as they usual ly wore under thei r si lkenhabits . But at the last moment this captain

,cut- throat

though he was, felt hesitation at committing the deedi n the sacred build ing and at such a solemn moment,and communicated his scruples to Girolamo Riario ;

and the latter had hasti ly to Open his scheme to acouple of priests and induce them to undertake themurder. A s a chronicler Of the t ime says : “ Anotherman was found

,who

,being a priest

,was more ac

customed to the place and therefore less scrupulousabout its sanctity. The second priest was to take theplace of Bandin i shou ld he entertain qualms .

59 9 THE R I V IERA

But th is change of persons spoi led all. The priest,

though more irrel igious , was less expert . Giul iano wasindeed stabbed to death by Band in i d i Pazzi

,at the

moment of the E l evat ion Of the Host,but L orenzo

escaped with a flesh wound from the inexperiencedhand of the priest

,and fled into the sacristy. The

congregation , the whole popu lace of F lorence, rose asa man

, and pursued the murderers . The A rchbishopS alviati d i Pazzi , and some of the others

,were seized

and hung from the windows ofthe Palazzo Pubbl ico,the

same day ; and the eighteen -year-Old Cardinal RaphaelRiario was flung into prison .

S ixtus was fu rious at the fai lure of the plot , anddemanded the l iberation of his great nephew,

the boyCard inal

,and at the same time the expuls ion of the

Medici from Florence . As the c iti zens refused to dothis

,he excommunicated L orenzo d i Medici

,and al l the

heads of the Republ ic, and placed Florence under aninterd ict. A fter a few days the boy was released ; butthat was as far as the Florentines would go . A ccordinglythe Pope

,his nephew Riario ,

and the King of Naples,

who had entered into league with the Pope, raised armiesto attack Florence, and a savage war of revenge ragedfor years . I t was n ot ti l l 148 1 that a descent of theTurks on O tranto made S ixtus tremble for his own

safety, and forced him to make peace with F lorence .

A fter the death of Pietro, S ixtus took his nephew,

Giovann i del la Rovere, in to the favou r that Pietro hadenjoyed . He married him to Giovanna, daughter of theDuke of Urb ino , and created him Duke Of Sinigaglia.

This fel low founded the second dynasty of the Dukes ofU rbino .

The p lebeian violence of the Della Rovere temper, saysMr. Addington Symonds,

“ reached a climax in Giovanni ’s son,

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S IXTUS IV 59 1

the Duke Francesco Maria, who murdered his sister’s lover

withhis own hands, when a youth of sixteen , and stabbedthe Papal Legate to death in the streets of Bologna, when at

the age of twenty, and knocked Guicciardini, the historian,down witha blow ofhis fist duringa council of war in 1 52 6 .

“ Christendom beheld in Sixtus the spectacle Ofa Pope whotrafficked in the bodies of his subjects, and the holy things OfGod, to squander basely-gotten gold upon abandonedminions .The peace Of I taly was destroyed by desolating wars in theadvancement of the sameworthless favourites . Sixtus destroyedto annex Ferrara to the dominions of Girolamo Riario .

Nothing stood in his way b'

ut the House of Este, firmly plantedfor centuries and connected by marriage or alliance withthechief families of I taly. The Pope, whose lust for blood andbroils were equalled only by his avarice and his libertinism

,

rushed withwild delight into a project which involved thediscord of the whole peninsula. H e made treaties withVenice and unmade them, stirred up all the passions of thedespots and set them together by the ears, called the Swissmercenaries into Lombardy, and when, finally, tired offightingfor his nephew, the Italian powers concluded the peace of

Bagnolo, he died of rage in 1 484 . The Pope did actually dieof disappointed fury, because peace had been restored to thecountry he had mangled for the sake of a favourite nephew.

”

This Pope seemed unable to exist without some cringing favourite about his person . I n 1463 he made hi svalet , a lad of no character and parts , of base birth , withnothing but his good looks and obsequ iousness to Speakfor him— Cardinal and Bishop of Parma

,when his age

was only twenty.

S ixtus was always impecun ious. To replen ish histreasury he had two resources . One was the publ ic saleof places about the Court

,and of b enefices and of

eccles iastical privi leges.“ Our churches

,priests

,altars

,

sacred rites, our prayers, even heaven and our God, -are

30 2 THE R I V IERA

all purchasable, i s the exclamation of Baptista Mantuanus

,a scholar of the peri od . His second expedient

was the monopoly of corn throughout the Papal S tates.Fi ctit ious dearths were created the value of wheat wasraised to famine prices

,and good gra in was sold out of

the S tates of the Church and bad grain was imported ,that the Pope might pocket the profits of the transaction .

S ixtu s forced his subjects to buy at his stores,and

regarded their sufferings , and the d isease bred of famine,with indifferent eye.

But,bad as he was

, S ixtus d id some good things . He

l aid the basis of the great Vatican l ibrary, bui lt a bridgeover the T iber, and widened some of the streets .

Q

To him is due the introduct ion into the calendar ofthe Feasts Of the Conception ofthe Blessed Virgin , alsoof the Presentation in the Temple , and of S te . A nne, al lthree of which find their place in the Angl ican calendar ;also of S . Joseph .

S ixtu s happi ly put an end to the cruel persecution of

the Spirituals,” a branch of the Franciscan Order

which advocated absolute poverty,and adherence to the

o riginal mandates of the founder. Thei r prophet andtheologian had been d

’

Oliva. Pope John XXI I . hadpronounced the writings of d

’

Oliva heretical , and hadhanded over the S piritual s to the I nquis i tion

,to be

deal t with as heretics . Between 1 3 16 and 1 352 as many

as 1 14 Of them were bu rnt at the stake ; but S ixtus IV.

reversed the judgment of John XX I I . and declaredthis teaching of O l iva to be orthodox so that those whohad bee n burnt in accordance with the judgment of onePope

,were martyrs for the truth according to the

decis ion ofanother.

S ixtus d ied in 1484.

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304 THE R I V IERA

t iara . Jul iu s I I . pushed on the fortunes of his fam i ly,which had been al ready aggrand ised by S ixtus IV.

This done, he could devote himself, undisturbed by theimportun ities of his k indred

,to the gratification of that

innate love for war and broi l which was the rul ingpassion of his l i fe.He was the fighting Pope, stern , resolute, indom itable.

The whippings he had received from his father hadsteeled his spiri t instead of break ing i t . His portraitby Raphael admi rably expresses the character of th issecond Del la Rovere Pope . The hard

,cold eye

,the set

frown,the determined mouth

,about which a smile never

qu ivered,and the flowing white beard , are eminently

characterist ic of the man . There i s not in the face atrace of the eccles iastic , not an ind ication of his havingled a spiritual l ife. But for the habi t, he might havebeen a doge or a m i l i tary leader.Ranke thu s describes him“ Old as Jul ius was, worn by the vicissitudes of good and

evil fortune experienced througha long l ife, by the fatigues ofwar and exile, and, above all, by the consequences of intemperance and profligacy, he yet did not know what fear orirresolution meant. In the extremity of age, he still retainedthat great characteristic of manhood, an indomitable sp irit.H e felt l ittle respect for p rinces, and believed himself capableof mastering them all . H e took the field in person, and

having stormed Mirandola, he pressed into the city across thefrozen ditches and through the breach; the most disastrousreverses could not shake his purpose, but seemed rather towaken new resources in him. H e was accordingly successful ;not only were his own baronies rescued from the Venetians,but in the fierce contest that ensued he finally made himselfmaster Of Parma, Placentia, and even Reggio, thus laying thefoundation of a power such as no Pope ever possessed beforehim.

POPE S IXTUS IV

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306 THE R I V IERA

guests sat down to cards , and al l went merri ly unti lone o ’clock stru ck, when the Princess fel l back in herchair, and though she tried to speak , no intel l igiblesound issued from her l ips . Helpless and speechless ,she was conveyed to her own house

,where she

'

died

three days later.Then , as may be imagi ned , tongues wagged . I t was

confidently asserted that the Princess had been struckdown by Providence. Her sudden death was repre

sented as a j ust punishment for her Sin i n espousingthe cause Of the Pope’s enem ies ; and fanat ics held herup as an awfu l example and a warn ingI t was useless to hint that Providence had struck

at very poor game— an al ready half-paralysed oldwoman— i nstead of smiting the real Offenders . ThePrincess was in ind ifferent

'

heal th at the t ime,had lost

the use of her right arm through one stroke, and therecurrence was what might have been antic ipated . N0one would hear a word . She had reaped what othershad sown .

Count Miollis now resolved on removing the Popefrom the ci ty. A l though his excommun icat ions andinterd icts might safely be laughed at , yet his presencein Rome was a hindrance to general reform of abuses

,

and his person was a centre fo r every sort of cabal .The Pope was in the Quirinale, which was close barred .

I n the even ing of June 5ththe palace was su rroundedby French soldiers

,and pickets of cavalry patrol led

the adjacent streets . Miollis authorised General Rade tto use force if necessary

,to enter the Quirinale and

ge t possess ion Of the Pope. Count Miollis stat ionedhimself i n a summer-house in the Colonna gardens ,whence he cou ld issue d irections. Large numbers of

P IU S V II 39 7

the I tal ian and Roman nob les and people of the middleclass assembled to see what would take place.The clock at the Quirinale was striking three-quarters

after two when Miollis made a S ign to commenceoperations . The gates remained fast shut. The Frenchsoldiers tried to scale the garden wal ls, but failed ; andmen were sent in ho t haste to borrow ladders for thepurpose. These were obtained ; but the fi rst who surmounted the wall

,lost hi s footing i n attempting to

descend on the farther side,and broke his leg. A nother

j udgment ! and again level led at very poor game. He

was a mulatto . General Radet, with a smal l fol lowing,made good his entrance into the palace through awindow

,and reached the grand staircase, which was

crowded with papal servants,who offered but a feeble and

hal f-hearted resistance, and were at once overpowered .

I n the meantime the other party had effected anentrance over the garden wal l .Radet lost no t ime in gain ing the Pope

’s apartments .One or two doors had to be broken open , and then hereached the ante-chamber

,where were drawn up the

Papal Swiss guards . They at once laid down theirarms

,without a Show of fight. When a couple more

doors had been forced Rade t reached the Pope’s audiencechamber. Pius had rigged himself up SO as to producean impress ion . He wore a white s i lk cassock

,a moz etta

on his head of crimson si lk,and a gold stole. He was

seated at a table with Cardinals Pacca and Despuig.

But Rade t was not overawed,as were the Gauls by the

sight of the white-bearded senators. Advancing, hesaid

,with courtesy,

“ I have a most painful and trying commission toexecute, but I have sworn fidel ity and obedience to the

39 8 THE R I V IERA

Emperor,and I must obey his orders . On the ‘part ,

therefore, of his Maj esty, I have to intimate to yourHol iness that you must renounce al l temporal sovereigntyover Rome and the Roman S tates .The Pope repl ied calmly : “ I bel ieved that I had

compl ied with the Empe ro r’ s o rders,when I took the

o ath of fealty and obed ience to him . We cannot cedeor renounce what

,

i s not our own .

.

The temporal powerbelongs to the Roman Church , and we are only theadmin istrators. Must we go alone ?

“ No ; your Hol iness can take Card inal Pacca with

you .

A quarter of an hou r afterwards the Pope, wearinghis red hat and mantle, l eft the Quirinale, and , alongwith Cardinal Pacca , entered a carriage. General Kadetand an Officer took seats oppos ite , and the bl inds weredrawn down on the s ide on which sat the Pope .

When the carriage was on i ts way Pius suddenlyexclaimed : “ I have forgotten to bring my money ; al lI have in my pocket is twenty baj occhi.

”

“ And I said the Card inal,

“ have only five.Then , said the Pope,

“ this may be regarded as atru ly apostol ic j ou rney, with one franc seventy-five

centimes between us .”

The Pope was conveyed somewhat hasti ly to S avona,where he was wel l received , but kept under su rvei l lancefor nearly s ix years .S avona was made the capital of the department Of

Montenotte by Napoleon . The see was founded in 680.

From 1499 to .1 52 8 i t was entirely in the hands of the

Del la Rovere and Riario famil ies for five success ions .I n 1098 i t was the see of the bishop Peter Grossulano ,whose story is strange enough . A nselm

,A rchbishop

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3 10 THE R I V IERA

Milan , Grossulano told him . that he must either passthrough the flames or qu it M ilan . L ip rand chose thefirst al ternative

,but arranged the matter so that there

were two fi res made at a convenient d istance apart,and

he marched between them unhurt . Two years laterL iprand was summoned to Rome and Sharply rep ri

manded nevertheless,Milan cont inued to be torn by

factions, Lip rand and his fol lowers refusing to receive

the min istrations of Grossulano and his clergy.

A t last the A rchbishop departed for Jerusalem .

During his absence L iprand became more abusive anduproariou s

,and managed to gather together a suffic ien t

party to elect in the room of Grossulano an ignorant,u neducated man cal led Giordano

,to be archbishop ; and

the three suffragans of A st i,Genoa

,and Turin con

secrated him . The bishop of Turin hurried to Rometo obtain the pal l for Giordano . Paschal was in them idst of his stri fe with Henry V .

,and it was essential

that he shou ld have the support of the A rchbishop ofMilan . H e cou ld not be certain of Grossulano , whetherhe were anti- imperial o r not ; besides , he was absent.Giordano he hoped to use as a tool . A ccord ingly hesent the pal l to him

,but stipu lated that he was not to be

arrayed in i t ti l l he had sworn absol ute subm i ss ion tothe Pope

,and to refuse investitu re from the Emperor.

For Six months Giordano steadfastly refused to re

ceive the pal l on these terms , but his scruples van ishedon the return of Grossulano , and he submitted un

reserved ly to the Pope,who summoned a counci l i n

the L ateran Palace, 1 1 16, when a mock hearing of thecase took place ; Grossulano was d ism i ssed to Savona,and Giordano was confi rmed in his usu rpat ion .

S avona was a margravate held by a j un ior branch ofthe great house Of Monferrat. The Emperor O tto I .

THE SANCTUARIO 3 1 1

raised Aleram,Count of Monferrat , to the d ignity of

margrave. Boniface,descended from a jun ior son

,b e

came Margrave of Saluzzo. He d ied in 1 1 30, and hissecond son Enrico became Margrave of S avona. Thesemargravates were much l ike sea-anemones when d ividedup, each several parcel became an entire margravatecomp lete in itself. I n 1 2 1 5 Savona was gripped byrapacious Genoa

,and the last margravate d ied in 1 2 33.

A pretty drive of an hour takes one up the val ley toS antuario

,a pilgrimage phurchwith hospice, founded in

1 536 . The church , which is rich in marbles, containsa m i racu lous image of the Virgin , tricked out withvelvet and jewels . She wears a diamond col lar givenby King Charles A lbert

,and a jewel led crown p re

sented by Pope Pius VI I . The chapter of S . Peter’sclaims the right to decide what m i racu lous images areto be honoured with crowns

,but the crowns themselves

are conferred by the popes . I n 1632 a certain CountA lessandro S forza , a fanatic from Piacenza

,by his wil l

left rents Of a large estate to furn ish gold and jewelsfor this purpose ; as t ime went on , the property grew invalue

,and the crowns at the same t ime became more

splendid . The honour is u sual ly reserved for the Vi rgin ,but occasional ly the Bambino i s remembered as wel l .F igures of Christ are, however, never deemed worthyof being crowned , except He be rep resented as a babe.

The story of this image 15 not particularly novel andinteresting. I t was found by a

'

p e'

asant where now

Stands a l ittle c ircu lar chapel on the hil l above thepresent sanctuary. He saw the Virgin in a vision , whobade him go to S avona and bid the people erect achurch to enshrine her. He did as bidden , but the goodfo lk in Savona would not bel ieve him ,

thought him

3 4 2~ THE R I V IERA

crazed , and locked him up .

"

I n the n ight the Virginre leased him. A fter some further trouble

,and some

further miracles,'

the story was bel ieved and the sanctuarywas erected .

Beside the image i s a l ittle marble figure representingthe countryman who started the cul t. Beneath thefeet of the Virgin issues a spring of water that i ssupposed to cu re all d iseases , but i s so intensely coldas to be more l ikely to do harm thangood .

A t Varaz z i, near S avona , was born“ the famou s

Jacques de Voragine,abou t the year 1 2 30. Nothing is

known of the social position of his parents . I n one ofhis writings he speaks of the “ecl ipse of 1 2 39, and saysthat he was sti l l a chi ld when it occurred . He becamea dom in ican in 1 244, and in 1 292 was elected to thebishopric ofGenoa . He l abou red hard to effect a trucebetween the Ghibel l ine and Guel f factions

,which for

two whole months converted the streets of the capitalofL iguria into a field of battle. He succeeded . But the

p eace was soon broken again . The story goes of himthat

,being present in S . Peter’s alongwith Boniface VI I I .

on A shWednesday, during the ceremonies, the e pontiff,suppos ing him to belong to the imperial party, dashedthe ashes in hi s face

,shouting,

“ Remember, thouGhibel l ine

,that thou and thy Ghibel l ines wil l be reduced

to dust.” Jacques is ch iefly known through his L egendaA nrea

,a col lection of the most outrageous , but al so

the most romantic'

fables of the saints ; a work thathad an enormous sale in the Middle Ages, and wascopied again and again , and read everywhere, and , incred ible as it may seem , was bel ieved as gospel . He

d ied 1 298 .

A t'

Albiz z ola S uperiore is the palace of the : Del la

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3 14 THE R IV IERA

Duchesse de Chartres a few years be fore the outbreakof the Revolution

,may be j udged by some fu rther

i nstances .When the party left A ntibes for N ice

,they went by

sea, because of the badness of the ro ad ; and wereObl iged to be accompanied by a felucca with a wholeregiment on board , to protect themagainst corsairs .A t OSpidale tta

we were forced to halt and spend the night, one of themostfrightful p laces that hosp itality ever provided . We slep t threein one room,

and we made up a sort of b ed for Mme . theDuchess of Chartres withmule c loths-and leaves. In oneroom were two greatheap s of corn, and the master of the houseassured us that we shou ld sleep well ifwe buried ourselves in the

grain . The gentlemen gave us their cloaks to cover the corn .

One had to go to b ed in the most extraordinary attitude— infact, almost upright. We passed the night in continual interrup tions, caused by Sl idings down and by the upset Ofmassesof corn . Withjoy we saw the day dawn ; and as we had slep tin our clothes, our toilettes did not occupy us long.

”

The whole of the R iviera from“

N i ce to Genoa— indeed,

the whole of Provence- i s studded with ru ined castlesand palaces : ofthese, only the most mean , that house ofcards

,Monaco

,remains intact. They tel l u s of a time

when the great fami l ies l ived in lordly state, under theabsoluti sm of the French crown or the despotism of theGenoese Republ ic . I n Genoa itsel f the fami l ies inscribed on the Golden Book , and alone having the rightto sit i n counci l and di rect the affairs of state

,and mis

manage and oppress the L igurian coast and Corsica, d idnot exceed one hundred and seventy. But in L iguriathere were at least fou r hundred and fi fty noble famil iesdecorated with titl es

,possess ing vast estates

,com

PALACES OF L IGUR IA 3 1 5

manderies, and hereditary wealth , who were excludedfrom al l share in the government.All have gone under, not in the wars for the Milanese,

but in the Revolu tion ; and these ruined castles andpalaces are thei r tombstones . Who can doubt thatit i s wel l that so it Should have been . In the words Of

Macaulay

The volcano has spent its rage. The wide waste producedby its outbreak is forgotten . The landmarks whichwere swep taway have been rep laced .

‘The ruined edifices have beenrepaired . The lava has covered witha richincrustation thefields whichit once devastated, and, after having turned abeautifu l and fruitful garden into a desert, has again turned thedesert into a still more beautifu l and fruitfu l garden . Themarks of its ravages are still all around us. The ashes arebeneathour feet. In some directions the deluge of fire stillcontinues to spread. Yet experience surely entitles us to

believe that this exp losion will fertilise the soil whichit hasdevastated . Already, in those parts whichhave suffered mostseverely

,richcu ltivation and secure dwellings have begun to

appear amidst the waste .

”

The palaces of the L ascaris,the Grimald is

,the

Duraz z os,the Del la Roveres

,the Dorias

,are in ru ins

,

but in their places rise hotels de Paris, de l’

Univers , theMetropole and the bands of bravos entertained by thenobles are replaced by I tal ian and Swiss waiters .

The more we read the history of past ages, the more weobserve the signs of ou r own times, the more do we fee l ourhearts filled and swelled up by a good hope for the futuredestinies of the human race.

I N D EX

Ab solution from vows, 164—5, 303

Adam de Craponne , 8Addison, 53

-

4

n itma, 1 80fEschylus, 8Agay, 1 52Agricola, 1 2 1 - 2Aix , I4, 55

- 7 I

Alassio , 2 88—90Albenga, 2 93 5Albiz z ola, 3 1 2

—3

Algerine pirates, 2 25Aloes , 7Amadeus, Duke ofSavoy, 209Amb rons and Teutons, 56

- 9Ambrose , S . 2 8—9Andora, 290

Ampelio , S . , 2 73—4

Amphitheatres, 14, 1 5, 1 19, 1 2 0,

206

Andrew , King , 1 36Angers, 70Annulling ofmarriage , 2 39-

40

Antibe s, 3 , 14 , 165, 1 87- 8 , 190

Architecture , domestic, 2 79—80 ;

G othic, 2 2 -

3Arco Romans, 2 89Argens River, 97 , 1 14Arles, 6 , 1 3 , 1 5, 16, 1 8 , 25, 39Arluc, 1 85

—6

Armentarius, S . , 1 3 1

Augustine redestination, 100—1

Augustus, mperor, 24 1—2

Aurelian Way, 55, 1 1 8 , 148, 2 61 ,2 72

Avignon, sale Of, 3 , 1 37 union

withFrance , 1 7

Baal, I 3 , 1 2 1

Bagne, 76—7Balaun, Pierre de , 35Balb s, Bertrand

‘ de , 208Baptistery, 2 72 , 2 94Bar, le, 1 74Barbarossa, 2 1 1 , 2 92

Barjac, Pierre de , 35Barma Grande, 2 6 1

Barras, 82

Baux , les , 2 36Bazaine , Marshal, 195—9Belz unce , Bishop , 5 1Berengarius, Marquess , 107Bishop and chapter, 1 79Blanc, M .

,

Boccaccio , 37- 8 , 1 39, 143Bonaparte , Joseph, 52 3Napoleon. S ee Napoleon

Bordighera, 2 64, 2 67, 2 73—5Bormes, 1 75Bourbon, Constable de , 48

-

9Boz o , King ofArles, 1 7, 207Bravade , I I I - 1 2

Bresca family, 2 85- 6Brougham, Lord, 2

Brumaire , the 1 8th, 1 26Burning Bush, triptych, 70—1Butillo Prignano , 142 , 1 44Cabane , Philippine , 135- 7Raymond, 1 35—6

Cabasse , 1 1

Cabastaing, William de , 37Cab ris , Louise de , .1 69—72Caesar, Julius, 2 7, 4 1—3 , 1 18Cagnes, 2 24—5

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Grimaldifamily, 109 , 208-

9, 2 24-

5,2 29 -

9. z 69Grossulano , Bishop , 308- 10

Guelfs and Ghibellines , 2 67, 2 78,3 1 7

Hamilton, Lady Mary,2 39

-

40Hanb ury, Sir Thomas, 2 6 1Hannib al, I4, 2 94H enry IV .

, 73H eraclea, 1 2

cacab area, 1 10H eracles, 8 , 1 2H ermits

,1 85

H ilary, S . , 1 2 2—4, 1 53

H onoratus, S . , 1 2 3 , 153- 6 , 200

H ospice , S . , 2 07'

H ughof Provence , 1 04-

7H ugueno ts, 1 74

- 6Hyeres, 84-

96, 1 38Hymn, lucky numb er of, 2 33

-

4Hymns, 2 5- 9Iron Mask, 19 1

-

5

James, of Aragon, 1 39Jeannette , Ste , 1 58Jenkins’s Ear, 1 8 1—2Jerusalem , Crown of, 1 33, 1 34Joanna I . ofNaples, 3 , 1 33

—143I I . 1 33 , 145- 6John XL , 106

Jouvines, les, 1 8Julius I I . , 304-

5, 3 13

Lampedusa, 2 82 -

3Langue d’Oc , 24 , 2 9Lascaris family, 2 69

-

7 1Laz arus, S .

, 47- 8

Lemons , 2 75- 6

L eprosy, 2 8 1Lerins

, Iles of, 1 8 1 , 1 83, 1 86, 190203

Levant, Ile of, 93-

5L igurians , 8 , 1 1

, 1 2, 1 4, 39

-

4 1 ,1 2 1 , 148 , 1 80- 1 , 2 06

Limestone , 9L ombards , 206

Louis ofTarentum, 137

—9

XI . , 67 ; annexes Provence,70

Louis XIV. , 191—3 , 242

I NDEXLou

8p, Gorges of the

,158, 1 72 -

4,2 4

Love , Troubadour, 3 1- 7

Lympia, 205

Maj olus, S . , 107- 8M arceau, General, 2 1 6Margaret , Queen, 66 -

7Marius, 1 4 , 6

, 59- 6 1Maro z ia

, 10- 6

Marseilles, 4 , 1 2 , 1 3 , 1 8, 39

-

54,1 18

, 1 38 ; Marquesate , 88Marie

, sister of Joanna I .,1 43

Marquisates, 3 1 1 - 2

Martha, Ste . , 48 ; sorceress, 60

Marriage , Troubadour idea of, 3 1 - 7Martin S . , 2 89- 90

IV . , 1 64Mary Magdalen

, S te , 48Massena

, 2 1 3—6

M assacre at Toulon, 82 -

3Matthews, Admiral, 1 8 1—2Mattioli

,1 93

Maures, M ontagnes des, 3 , 4, 9,87 , 97- 1 1 2 , 1 14, 1 38

Maxim , Sir Hiram, 248Maximin, S . , 2 3M egalithic monuments, 1 1 , 1 3 1M elkarth, 1 2 , 1 3 , 2 2 7Mentone , 2 2 8 , 2 3 1 , 2 55- 63Merle , Cap tain, 9 1

- 2

Mellin, 15 1- 2

Mirab eau family, 1 69

- 1 72Miramas

, 8Mistral, 7 , 88 , 1 1 3, 2 57Monaco , 1 2 , 2 2 6- 54, 2 59M onte Carlo , 1 , 2 39

-

54Montp ellier, IM onans Sartoux

, 1 74- 6Mulberry trees, 101Music, 2 6- 29Muy, le , 149, 1 50

Napoleon I . , 4 , 80- 3, 1 15- 8

, 1 26,

1 93-

5, 305Nap oule , La, 1 86- 7Narb onne , 1 6Nervia, River, 2 73Nice , 1 2 , 1 3 , 2 05- 2 2 6, 255Nicolas IV. , 164Nimes, 16

Obelisk at Rome, 2 85- 6

Olives, 7 , 84- 6

Ollioules, 79Oneglia, 2 90- 1

Opimus , Quintus, 1 80- 1

Oranges, 86- 7, 2 75- 6OSpidaletta, 3 14

Pagan customs, 1 7- 1 8Paillon,

River, 2 05- 6

Palaces, I talian, 3 14-

5Palermo , 163

-

4Palestrina, 2 2

Palms , 2 85—7Patrick , S .

,2 02

Paul I II . , 2 10—1

Pe ter ofAragon, 1 63- 4Phaeton, fall of, 2 25Phocoeans, 1 3 , 14 , 39, 206Phoenicians, 1 2 , I 3 , 39Pius V I I . , 305Plague at Marseilles, 49 51Pompée de Grasse , 1 75Pompey, 4 1

Pomponiana, 89Pons

, S . , 2 07Porcarius, 203Pourrieres, 6 1

Predestination, 200- 2

Prehistoric man, 2 6 1 - 3Procession at Aix, 67—9

INDEX

Provence , Roman colony, 14, 206 ;union withFrance , 70

Puget Theniers, 2 26Pytheas, 43- 6

Quarries, Roman, 1 53

Rancher, 2 16- 1 7Raphael, S . , 1 1 3- 1 9Raymond Berenger, 158—60Red caps, 75

ochre , 2 62Reformatory, insurrection in, 93

- 6Reign ofTerror, 52 , 8 1—2Relics, 2 74—5Remo , San, 2 74, 2 76- 86

Réné, King , 3 , 62 -

7 1 , 10 1 , 2 86Rhone , River, 5- 6R obinet de Donzere, 5Roman settlements, 1 4 , 2 06

Romeo de Villeneuve , 1 58—6 1

3 1 9

Romulus, S . , 2 78 , 2 8 1Roqueb rune , 2 36 , 2 59Roslyn, Lord, 2 48

-

9Roulette , 2 46

-

9Roya, River, 2 7 1

Rudel, Geoffrey, 34Ruffini, 2 82 , 2 85

Sabreurs and Canifets, 1 1 1 , 1 32

Salt, 88 , 89Sans phrases, 1 2 5Santuario , 3 1 1

Saracens, 3 , 16, 47, 73, 90, 101-

9,2 02 -

3, 207—8, 2 60

Saussure , 1 51Savona, 2 96

-

3 15Sea-fight, 42 -

3 , 290- 2

Ségurane , 2 1 1—1 2

Sicilian vespers, 163Sieyes, 1 24- 6

Silkworms, 2 01

Sixtus IV . , 2 96—303

V . , 2 85- 6

Spe’

lunges, les, 2 38

Springs in the sea, 203S tones, cult of, 1 88-

90

Suicides, 2 45- 6Sumac, 87Susanne de Villeneuve , 1 75- 7

Taggia, River, 2 84Taia River, 1 86

Templars, 92

Tende , county of, 269- 70Terpon, 1 88

Teutons , 56- 6 1

Theas-Thorenc, 1 77Theatre , Greek , 1 5, 16Theoule , 1 56Thouet-de -Beuil, 2 26

Toulon, 4 , 72 - 83Towns, structure of, 1 0, 1 1

Tropez , S ., 1 10

—1 2

Troubadours, 29—37

Turbie , 1a, 2 2 7 , 2 40—1 , 2 56

Tyrian dye 73

Umb rella pines, 1 10Urban IV. 1 34VI . , 140

-

4Utriculares, 190

3 20 INDEXValence , 5 Vesubie , River, 2 26Valescure , 1 14 Via Aurelia. S ee AurelianWayVar River, 1 30, 1 58 , 2 1 2 , 2 26 Victoire , Ste , 6 1 - 2

Varaz z i, 3 1 2 Victor, S . Abbey, 47- 8Vauban, 73 Voragine , Jacques de , 3 1 2Vegetation, tropical, 5, 1 84, 2 77Veille , la 2 54Venaisin:bought, 3 , 1 37 ; annexed Wallfzfr’nCa taln

t

,2

5556 2 2491 50

08to France , 1 7

207

o

un 0 I

‘

OVEDCC, I

Vence , 2 3 , 167- 8

Venus Victrix, 62Ventimiglia, 264, 266- 72 , 2 75, 2 78 York; Duke of, 254

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