T H R O U G H

G ERM A N Y,B O H EM I A , HUNG A RY

SW ITZERLAND , ITALY, and LORRA IN.

Giving a T a n : and J U S T

D E S C R I P T “! O N

O F T H E

PRE S ENT ST ATE of thofc CoUNTRI Es ;

T H E I R

NATUR A L, LITERARY, a nd POLITI CAL H I S T O R Y ;

MA NN i m s , LAW S , COMM ERCE , MA NUFA CTURES , PA I NT

m c , SCULPTURE , ARCH IT ECT URE , Cone

s , ANTn m s ,

Cu xu o sm s of ART and NA T URE , we.

I L L U S T R A T E D

W ith COPP ER-PLATES , engraved from Draw iqgs taken

on the Spot .

By J O H N GE O R G E K EYSLE R,

Fe l low of the ROYAL Soc T Y in LONDON .

Carefu l ly tranfla tcd from th e Second Edition of the GERM AN.

V O L. I I.

L O N D O N

Prim ed for G . K a x T g; in G racechu rch -Sifeet ; 4? L t 31 o r i nCa therine -S treet ; S . CROW DE R a nd Co . London-Bridgé P. DAVEYand B. L A W in Ave-Ma rxa -Lane ; T . F : a L

‘

u ixi i l lh ea p’

fidc sand E . D 1 L L Y in the Pou ltry . M .DCC .LX.

“

IJ

T H E

C O N T E N T S'

O F T H E

S E C O N D V O LUM E .

‘

L E T T E R XLII .

Ccount of the Hou fhold, Palace, Trcafury ,Maj euw, Ga llery , fi t . of the great Duke a t

LORE NCE. Page I

L E T T E R t n.

Accou nt of the Churches and other religious Bu ildings at FLORENCE . 39

L E T T E R XLIV.

Of the p riv ate Pa lacce, and other Cu riofities of the

City of' FLORENCE . 70

LE T T E R XLV.

Journey from Florence to Sienna, with form :Ac-o

count of th is aft city , 80

L E T T E R XL'

VI .

J ourney through ,

Radieofani, Aquapendente, Bol

fena, Montefiafcone, Viterbo, &c. toRom e . 8 8

L E T ,

The C O N T E N T S .

L E T T E R XLVII .

Of the E x tent of Rom e ; the Pope, h is Cou rt,‘

RC?

v enu e, a nd m il ita ry Forces ; the Life and Deathof Benediét X III . and the Intrigue ‘

s of the Concla ve . 97

L E T T E R XLVIII .

O f the C lim a te and Manner of m g at Rom e

of the Pretender’s Perfon and Hou ihold, (i t . 1 2 5

L E T T E R LXIX.

A ccount of the religiou s Ed ifices, and the Popes

P al aces, in Rom e. 1 56

L E TT E R E .

Continu ation of the foregoing Accou nt of the rel:-

g ions Edifices and p apa l Pal aces a t Rom e ; pa r

t icu lar ly S t, Peter’s chu rch , the Vatican , and the

cattle S t. A ngelo.

L E T T E R LI.

Conclu fion of the Accou nt of religiou s Edifices ,a nd the Pope

’s Pa laces in Rom e.

L E T T E R LII .

p f the m of’t rem arkable Piazzas or Areas, Bridges ,Gates, Palaces , fi t . in Rom e. 335

Th C O N T E N T $

LE T T E R LIII.

t he Villa’s and Gardens inand near Rom e,

L E T T E R.

LIV,

Of Tivol i, Erefcati, {5 a and the

,

Country aboutRom e.

L E T T E R LV.

Ofthe Rem ains of Antiqu ity at Rom e.

T R A V E L S

Th é W -é-fi fi é EM Tm am

mN il-X fi '

é fiié

T R A V E L S

w a a 6 a c a

GERMANY, ITALY, SW t nkt a nb, $¢r

arm am em m n um w

L E T T E R m 1.

Account of theHouflw ld, Palace , Treaaiury,Mir/21m ,

Gallery , (j e. of the great Duke at FLOR E N C E .

N refpea of the curiofities worthy the attention of a travel ler, Florence ex ceeds everyci in Italy, Rom e alone ex cep ted ; and0 vins Ferrarienfis not improper ly {tiles it

the Ital.

of Italy it

eopoldo defv

°

0 liore, in‘

h is Fiorm za I llqfl ra ta ,°

ves a ful defcription ofit 3 bu t (inc; the p ubl ica tion of t

'

,at w ork there have

been fevera l a lterations m ade, of wh ich a travell er £hou ldbe“

VOL. IL how ever

2 Account of the Great Duke’s Pal ace, Ste.

however it is deficient, and not entirely free from errors ;

This wh ich is*

owned by Raphael del Bruno’s ow n country

m en, has induced G ioanetti, an ingen ious phyfician , to ive

a new defcription ofFlorence, wh ich it is hoped w il l oon

fee the l ight .

t in Florence {hou ld be fou nd fuch an inva lu able colof the m oltcu rious capita l pieces of a ll kinds in (culp

ture, architectu re, painting, m echanics , m edal s , gem s , an

tiqu es , &C. w il l be the le 3 wondered a t, when it is confi

dered, that for above tw o hundred years paft, the fam ily ofMedicis have, at an incredible ex pence, applied them felves toth e im provem ent of the polite arts , and the fciences . Hence

the Literati (a fet of people who m ake no m ore fcruple of

fl attery than courtiers ) feem to have forgotten, or would

throw a vi'

el over the pa lpable blem ilhes w hich otherw ife

dif race the l ives of m olt of th efe princes .

Chm éter of he pre fen t court a t Florence is very dull and folitary,fi e f“ for the teat duke

’s filter Maria Anna L

‘

ouifa, w idow Of the

eleétor alatine , is, according to the Rom an catholic phrafe,becom e a Devotee, being Oftener feen a t convents and

ch urches than at Court. The grea t princefs‘Violanta Bea

trix , reliét of the prefent duke’s elder brother, and filter to

Max im ilian Maria Em anuel, la te cleEtor ofBavaria , is of a.

chearfu l difpofttion , and particu la rly affable to foreigners

y et W ith a prudent referve that (h e m ay not ive offence to

h er fifte'

r-ia -law . T he grea t'

duke h im fel l‘gh as kept h is

cham ber ever fince l ait J u l and no traveller or forci n

m inii’ter has adm ittance to h im ; h is w retched l ife bein i

v ided betwix t the pains of the afihm a and dropfy , a n the

ibort intervals of repofe procu red to h im by intox i ca ting and

foporiferous l iquors . . Th e public audiences are given by thethe grea t dutchefs , and to travellers of difi iné’tion w ho havewa ited on her, or whofe relations are in an em inent pofts ,{he fends a prefent ; w h ich com m only co rite of twochefisor cafes ofw ine, tw enty or thirty fm pes or pa rtridges, fixcheefes, and as m any lat e Bologna faufages for th is m agnificent prefent it is u fu to give a Louis d

’or to the bearer,

and two to the,perfon w ho delivers the com plim ent.

It is not w ithou t a great m any diflicu lties w ith re d to

cerem ony , that a foreign prince travellin through oren ce

can be adm itted to th e duca l fam ily . he Ital ians do n ot

go fo far as to refu fe a v ifit from a prince incognito but

they are w itha l for fi ipu lating, what the cal l a Mezzo

Cerem oniale. Thofe governorswhohave the care ofprinceson

at F L O R E N C E.

tin their travels , m ufi be very m uch upon their guard

the Italians m aking u fe of a grea t dea l of Fine e ininterview s, and on other occafions a re very artfu l in ex

plainin every th ing to their Ow n advantage. One rem arkable in cc of th is Mezzo-Cerem oniale, I {ha ll here iafert, from an accoun t not yet publilhed, of the travels ofthe prince a l , afterw ards king of Denm ark, FredericIV. through

m

za ly , France and Holland in 1 692 and 1 693,wri tten by count Ah lefeld, firft gentlem an of th e bedchamber to the prince .

Concern ing the cerem onial at Florence, fays the count,after a grea t m any difi cu lties , it w as at laft agreed thathis rdya l h ighnefs fhou ld firflr fend one of his gentlem ento the grea t duke, w ith a com plem ent from h im by thenam e of count Schaum bu rg. U n this it w as a

greed,

that the fam e even ing the grea t (hike, together w i the

great prince, ibou ld, w ithou t fending any prev ious notice,pay his roya l h ighnefs a v ifit at h is lodging ; that hisroyal h ighnefs {hou ld not go to m eet them , but w as only

'

to receive them a t the door of h is apartm ent where theywere to Rand 5 and as on that even ing there w as to be a

ball at th e princefs’s, the great duke w as to defire his

royal h ighnefs to go thither w ith him .

’

At their depar

ture his roya l h ighn efs w as to give the grea t duke the’

upper hand in h is lodging, till the

iyrficam e to the coach ,

where the prince w as to take the place, bu t the grea t

prince w as to go before his father nex t to the

agentlem an

who lead the proceflion . On com ing to the p ace, ba th

the at duke and the prince h is fan w as to conduét h is

toy h ighnefs to the princefs’s apartm ent, w here the ba ll»

was to be from thence, after {laying a a while, his royhighnefs w as to pay a vil it to the old grea t dutchefs , and

afterw ards retu rn to the ba ll . The day fol low ing, h isroyal h ighnefs , w ithout being

'

fetched, or any other cere

mony, w as to pay a vifit to the great duke , w ho w as neia

ther to m eet h im nor conduét h im . From thence through

the great prince’s apartm ents, w ho w as to be in theDW ay ,

his roy a l h i hnefs w as to go a long w ith the grea t duke

to his du tchefs’s apartm ent, w here there w as to be an af

fembly of ladies . I cou ld not , continues count Ahlefeld,‘

carry one point, nam ely , that the great duke ihou ld not

com e to h is royal highnefs’s lodgings w ith his retinue and

guards , a s w hen h e appea rs in publ ic, though I m ade no

r difi cu lty in allow ing, tbs

];h

is roya l highnefs filould

‘gilfi

4. Account of the Grea t Duke’sPalace, 8rc.

‘

i

th e grea t ‘

duke the upper hand, as, in m y Opinion (he being a fovereign prince and Claim ing an equa l ity w itheleétors ) it w as not a difputable point, efpecia lly on fuchan occafion , and in his ow n capital . At the interviesv

and on other occafions the grea t duke gave the prince the

title ofAl teil’

e Royale, hi s royal h ighnefs, and the prince

in retu rn {tiled him and th e grea t pr ince Al teilfe, or his

fs 3 the m a rqu is Vitelh ex prefling a g reat defneth at it lhou ld be fo, wh ich h is roya l h ighnefs the m ore

readily condefcended to, a s h e ,appea red incognito it wa s

befides all edged, tha t the emperors, even at Vienna, had

alwa ys iven th a t title to the princes ofTufcany .

’

An engalfy in the beginn ing ofthe lafl:century ofwhich

Daniel Erem ita has wr itten th e hifiory very m uch to th e

prej udice of th e Germ ans) w as the m eans of procu ring to

the dukes ofFlorence a very advan tageous Etiquette or ceo

rem onial . The Germ an princes did not fee into the

of th e court of Florence bu t charm ed with the great Itonour of receiving an em baff from a foreign prince, thought

th e

?could never do the dors honour h.

Pai szz‘

oVec h e grea t dukes form erly rcfrded at il Palazzo Veoch io,

330

2122“ w hich faces a l arge m arket cal led l a Piazza del Gran-Duca .

P The Objeél: wh ich firfi firikes the eye in th is pa lace is a

towe r projeé’ring out of the building , which in one part is

broader than at the bali s, bu t foon retu rns to a proper fym et

g. The top of it is fupported by four pilla rs, but to

w h i of th eic two circum ftances i t owe s the w heel apc

pel la tion of the e rial tow er I have not been inform ed w ithany cert ainty .

Statu e! At the entrance of th is palace is a m arbleHercules . ou les kil ling Cacus , both bigger than the life, and done is

Baccio Bandinel l i. Oppofite to this roup , and not at l fiDav

.

“ and inferior to it, by w ay of contrafl'

, is vid trium phing over

Gol iath, by Micha el Angelo. Here are alfo to be teen twoof the ancient Dii Term in i . In the m iddle of the court is

a porphy ry fountain , w ith a bo a fping a hib in bronze ,and another ftatue ofHercules g Caous, by Vincenzio

Large Han. Rofli da Fiefole, a difciple ofBendinel li. There is a ha ll

in the palace of a hundred and feventy-atwo feet in length ,

a nd feventy-four in breadth ; bu t it is.dark, and m akes no

m agnificent appearance ; w ha t w indow s it ha th being (m a ll;

and badly contrived. Th is hall , on a ccount of its fpaCiOHf‘

nets , is u fed for h om age cerem on ies , and for the dance

w hich on St. John’s day (the chief patron of the City ) is

annual ly

fl

a

A

a’

a'

a

a

a

a F L O R E N C E . 3annually perfu m ed by a com pany of peufants of both fex es,at which the duca l fam ily genera lly the duke diarihating the appoin ted prizes to the bell: ancers . On the

ceiling and wa lls ofth is room , the m od! rem arkable archicm ents of the republic of Florence a re pa inted in fi g/ca byGiorgio

’

Va fari. T he fou r corners are filled w ith as m anylarge pieces , in oi l colou rs , one of w h ich reprefents th e cctonation of Cofm o I . by pepe Pius V . Another ex hibitsthe tw elve Florent ines , who at th e fam e tim e w ere em bzf

{adora from difi

'

erent fiat-es at the court of pope BonifaceIII.

that he ca lled T ufcany the fifth elem ent,

m m . The th ird reprefents the eleéi ion ofthe fubjeét of the h it is the infi itu tion of the order of St .Stephen , pope and m a rtyr. The firfi two pia ures are

painted by Ligozzi, the third by Cigoli, and the fourth byPafligna no . A traveller m ufi not om it fccing the m arble Marble

fla m es of John de Medecis , fa ther of Cofm o I . of duke “3m “

Al ex ander, the grea t duke Cofm ol . and a lfo of the po 8

Leo X. and C lem ent VII . w ho w ere of the houfe of hi:diois . Here is likew ife a m olt adm irable fl am e ofVictory ,with a pr ifoner a t her feet, the w ork ofMichael Angelo,who at firfi intended it for the m onum ent of pape Ju lius II.

here a re a lfo to be feen fi x ex qu ifite m arble groups,cenzio Rofl i , reprefenting fix of the ex ploits ofHer Lat-m in d

cules , 1 . His dafhing Anteus againfl‘

a rock . 2 . His kill Hm

ing the, Cen tau r. 3. His throw ing Diom edes to w ildhorfes . 4 . His car ing a terrible w ild boar alive u qhis fhou lders . 5 , is h elping Atlas to bear up the6. His V ictory over the queen of th e Am azons bu t however adm irable the w orkm anfh ip of thefe pieces m ay be,fom e of th em m uff offend a m a id eye, efpccia lly of thefem ale fe x ,

In the Sal a del l’Udionza Vecch ia are forne painting

s in

frefira, reprefenting the heroic actions of Furius Cam i lus , Purim 00by Francefco Sa lvia ti.

In the P a lazzo Vecchio the duke’s w ardrobe is kc t, for

a fight of w h ich a particu lar l icence m uft be obtaine fromthe m a rqu is Ricca rdi, the prefent Mafter of the wardrobeand care be taken tha t the fam ous Florentine Pandeéh ,

’

and the m anu fcript gofpel of St. John, be particu larly fpecified in th e l icence , otherw ife frcfh difficul ties wi ll be m ade

ng them . In this wardrobe are ten or twelvefull of p inc

ha great part of which

3

a t F L O R E N C E . 7

is laid betwix t every leaf. I {ha ll -not enl anyon them , in hopes that Brinkm an ofHollan w ill at

length m ake good his prom ife of publ ifh ing an account of

thefepandefi r, together w ith the tex t ; bu t that the Rom an

law, or pa ndeé'

kz, obta ined in cou rts of udica ture before the

difcovery of the above cop at Am alfi, ts beyond difpute.

In another .

cham ber is ept the original of the decrees

of the counbil of Florence , held in

pope Eugene IV . oppofed to the co

large ikin of parc

with the nam es of th e latin biihops in two colum ns . At

the head of them (l a nds the pope’s fubfcription in thek

words , Ego Eugenia: Ecckfi Ca tbalicz Eii i/20pm i . e . I

Eugene, bilhop of the ca tholic church .

’And nex t com e

the cardinal s on the other ftde, and likew ife in two row s a re

the nam es of the Greek bilhops , figned a t the .top by the

emperor John Palaeologos VII . in red ink. Here are alfo

the 1 674 Contilii Florentini , w ith two Greek MSS. of the

gofpels, kept together in a fm all cafket, one of w hich is

pretended to be an original, w ritten by St . John him felfbut whether any m ore convincing proofs can he been htthan its being w ritten in olden letters I know not.

'

s

volum e conta ins only St. fohn’s gofpel , and has

illum ination s rela ting to the ofpel h ifto

alfo are large and le ible it IS fu ll of ahhrev ia tions, and

written on folio ve luin . The other is a lfo w ritten on

vellum , and conta ins the fourevangel ifis, w ith St . John inthe firft place . The volum e is bound in a filver cover, enriched w ith pearls .

The pilla rs of Pa lazzo Vecch io w ere form erly only ofbrick ; bu t by the (kill of th e arch itectMichaelozzi, theywere taken dow n, and replaced by others of free-fione,m uch better adapted for fupporting the w eight of the bu ild

-p

the Palazzo Vecchio, under the Loggia , com Statues and

mouly ca lled dc La nzz'

, a re three fme fiatues the firfl: isofJudith , w ith .Holofernes at her feet, of bronze, by Donatello. Another

'

a lfo, of the fam e m eta l, by BenevenutoCellini reprefenting Perfeus w ith Medufa

’s head fevered

from her body . T he bronze bqflia-relz’

w o on the pedefial

This Cel l ini, in his l ife w ritten by him felf, bu t w ith a m olt ridiculous vein of oitenta tion, boafts tha t he was the perfon who, at the liege

Pfgam e, tha t the duke dc Bou rbon.

B 4 ex h ibits

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1 4 Account or the Great Duke’§ Palace, &c.

The bufis ofAntinous , N erva , [Elius Verus , Caracdl lfi ;Pertinax , Didiu s Ju l ianus , Clodiu s Albinu s,

‘

in fine a laba fi

ter, Severus, Gordianos Africanus , Hel iogaba lus , the tw o

G a llieni, Cicero, w ith the w art on h is cheek; Seneca , D idi a

Clara , U r. Am ong thefe pieces is alfo a bronze head o f

Michael Angelo done b him lelf: Near it is a m arble bufi o

of Brutus, one of Ca: ar’s a ll

'

aflins . Th is w as begun byMichael Angelobu t not finiihed ; the rati on ofit is intim ated

in this ingenious dill ich com pofed by cardina l Bem bo

Fam ’d Brutus’im a w h ile the fcu lptor form

’d

In breath ing m arb e , 11k w ith Brutus’gu ilt,He left unfin ilhed the bold defign .

’

The four fingle capitals {land forMichael Angelus Buona~rota fecit

Ou t of the ga llery one goes into feveral cabinets fu ll of

curiofities w hich are w ell w orth feein In‘

the firfi are abov e

Portra its of an hundred and tw enty portra its of cc ebr‘ated painters , m ofi:

of them done by the perfons they are defigned for, and al l, in

Dailt fram es , w ith the nam es over every one of th em . Alberturer ,pa inted h is portra it in 1 498, and under it is W ritten in

very [m all charaéters in Germ an,

D a r m ablt icb nacb m inerc w a s ficb: and zw a rzgz

'

g

Th is is m l ikenefs painted by m yfelf in the twenty a

fix th year 0 m y age.’

Peter Belloti is pa inted w ith a gold chain about his neck,and a glafs of

‘

w ine in h is h and ; h is other hand pointing a t

both , w ith th is m otto : Alinabila ritar. r'

. e. Hence aril'

es joyand m irth .

’Probably the great duke had m ade him a prefent of

a qu antity of w ine and a gold cha in together, w hich infpired

the pa inter with the conceit ofdrawing h im felf‘

w ith thefe

fym bols .

at F L O R E N C E;Fymbola Under the pi&ure a re theic words : P erm s Bellotibic[e ipj irm fi ngeb

‘

a t. Ma r . 1 658 . i . e. Peter Bel loti drewhisown portrait here, March One cannot but w ill]that m ore regu la rity had been obferved in the difpofition ofthe paintings , w h i ch a re indifcrim inately huddled together

‘ 5

without the lca il regard to tim e or country . Raphae l’s por li tt

trait m akes no grea t figure, and he m utt have certa inly beenvery young a t the tim e of th is perform ance . Thofe of thefollowing painters a re adm irably ex ecu ted, v iz. T itian, G iulioRom ano, Andrea del Sarto, Sophon ifbe Angu ifciola , Roa

falba Cariera (w ho is com plim ented w ith a m uch h i ndfom er

face than the na tural ly had) Sir Godfrey Kneller, andPozzithe Jefu it, an adm irable perfpeétive painter. Am ong the

painters w hofe portra its are here, there are for of the nam e ofCaracci. In the m iddle of the cham ber fiands the itatue of Statue of

cardinal Leopold deMedicis, w how as a great encourager ofarts and fciences , and particu larly ofpa int m and procured

m entioned portra its . his fia tue is ofwhite m arble, and Battifia Fog

the cardina l d over h im th is

Scraper refl ux , Temper idem .

Always ja il , and uniform in virtue.

’

Mr. New ton , the late Engl ilh m in ifier at th is court, m adethe follow ing ingen ious difi ich on Leopold

’s ita tu

'

e :

adbucfi atua m dignior a lter,

prim nobiliare loco.

None ever deferved a fiatue'

better th an Leopold, nor

was ever {ta tue fix ed in a m ore honourable p lace .

’

The nex t cabinet conta ins a v noble oolle&ion of larand rich porcela in va fes , 697 . T ere are a lfo fom e veife 3made of Babbagauro, wh ich is a very rare Egyptian d ayof a green ifh colour, not unknow n to the ancients ; twoVery large u rns of Pucaro del Cile , an earth of very great

Porcelain

price brough t from Mex ico. There is a lfo fhew n in th is Em m i,apartment a large table, on wh ich is reprefented birds ,

.

owers, fru it, and feftoons in ex qu ifite Florentine work, andm the new efl: tafte ; “veri ty

-five perfons having been em

Ployed for thirteen.years to complete this curious piece

c

.

) B

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Account of the GreatDuke’sPalace, &c.

being at firlt deiigned to h and in a h igh place . The head

inclines a little to‘

the left fhou lder : the bloom ofyou th , th e

pleafmg foftnefs of her look, and her beau ty and m odefi'

yfeem to rival each other in the charm s of her countenance .

Her perfon i s fom ew hat plum p, and the fleib is (0 adm irablyex ecuted, that one im agines it fo foft, th at it m u il y ield to

the touch . Here indeed the ftatu a’s (kill is not a little

a ided b the polifh of the m arble, w ich a t firfi w as of a

pure white, bu t tim e has given it a yel lownefs how ever i t

does not yet look am ifs , and in the fun-{h ine is alm oft tranf

parent. Her ha ir at prefent is brown, and th is poflibly m aybe no m ore than the faded gildin which w as not unufua l

am ong .

the ancients Thou

gh enu s, in antique fl a tnes ,

and even upon a m eda l of Fa u ina , is often feen in the l ike

poiture w ith the Venu s de Medicis yet no certa in confe

quence can be draw n from hence that fu ch an a ttitude w as

borrow ed from th is as an original , and, even in thofe tim es ,accoun ted the m afier-piece of fculpture ; bu t ir

'

ra ther ap

pears to have been com m on to th is goddefs , as m ay be furtherfeen in {El ia s La mprz

’

dius 1C ri ticifm s Am idfi the adm ira tion of a ll a es , and the refort of cu rious

33, lit‘

Z.

perfons to fee it, the Venu s of edicis has not efcaped cen

dicis .‘fu re . Molt connoiffeu rs agree tha t the head is rather too

fm a ll in .proportion to the other parts of the body , and pa r

t icu larly the . hips fom e find fau lt w ith the largenefs of theh ofe ; poflibly the pa rtition a long the vertebra:of th e back is a

l ittle too deep, confidering the objeét is a foft p lum p fem a le 5a t lca il the bend of th e a rm s , and the inclination of the up

of the body feem to leffen , if not tota lly to preven t,a partition . The fin rs are of an ex traordina

len th , and a ll, ex cepting th e ittle fin er on the r igh t hanw it out joints ; bu t it is m anifeit th a t t e hands had not y e tu nder one the artift

’s laft touches , and confequently th is

fhou l not afi‘

e h is repu ta tion . The fam e obferva tion pof

fibly m ight be m ade on th e fiib or dolph in a t the fide ofth e

fi a tue, on w hich fom e boys feem to be riding, w ere it not

See Richandlbn‘

s treatife on painting and fcu lpture .

1“ In m ite Heliogabal i Ageba t pre term dam fabula m Pa i dir, r

'

iVener ir per/6m fubiem , ita utfitbito eve/k: ad pad “dw a rf .m daf9uew

’

za m a m a ad ”im am , a lrera adbibita , bxgm icula ret, pofier iar ibu ew

’

m tilw , fi e. He d befides the flow of Pa ris afi ed a t

hom e, and he him felf perform ed the ofVenu s, his cloaths at once

fal ling off a t his feet, and thu s he ood naked, w ith one hand acrofsh is breaft, the other over his pri vities, his knees bent, and his potte

'

riors projeél ing,known

a t F L O R E N C E . n'

lmown 'that m any of the adm irable pieces of antiqu ity ex celonly in their capi tal pa rts , the judicious m atter llurring over

theconcom itan t ornam ents , a s not deferving m uch tim e and

attention. Mr . Richardfon has a lfo obferved the fam e defeétanddifference ofw ork in the little ch ildren of the riverN ile ,intheVatican Belv idera in the w ild boar

’s head belonging

to the flam e of Meloager, in the Pa lazzo di Picchinr a t

Rome ; in the beafis w ith the Toro Farnefe, at Rom e ; in

thechild in Com m odu s’s arm s , in the Farnefran pa l ace 3 and

inLeda, in a roup w ith Caftor and Polu x , in the duke ofracciano

’s ace a t Rom e . The original of the Greek

medals ofthe Syrian kings and the Ptolem ys w ere en ravedin the fame manner ; noth ing being finer than the heads ,whereas the

,reverfes feem to be done by an unex perienced

hand. To conclu de m y account of th is celebrated Venu s ,

with the judgm en t offom e connoifl’

eurs, they allow , th a t incomparing the pa rts fepara tely , as the head, the nofe, (f t .ofthis Pratue, w ith thofe of others , the fim ilar parts m ightbefound, even of fu perior workm anfhip ; bu t that for fuchacombination ofbea u ties , the delicacy of lh ape and attitude,andfym etry of the w hole, the w orld doth not afford its equa l .

This incom pa rable fia tne fl ands betw een two others of the Twoother:

fame goddefs , w h ich in a ny other place w ou ld pafs for adm i $123°f 3

table pieces ; w hereas here they ferve rather a s foils to theVenus ofMedic is , only increafing the adm ira tion of it,while their ow n ex cellencies a re qu ite unnoticed. Tha t onher right is tw ice a s big, w ith the golden apple in her handmandis term edVen u s Victrix or Vié

'

toriofa ; the other a noblefiatue, b Hercu les Ferrata, is diltinguilh ed by the nam e ofVenus ran ia .

On one tide of this h it {tatu e is a dancing Faunus, Faunus.whofe fportivenefs and agility is fine! e x reffed. Mich aelAngelo is fa id to h ave added the hea a n a rm s to it ; butthe piece is origina l ly afcribed to no lefs a perfon thanrax iteles . On the m arble appear fom e Ra ins , particu larlyonthe face, and thefe h av ing been fuppofe

’

d to proceed fromthe mou lds , no m ore are perm itted to be m ade from it l”.

Nex t to th is i s the A rrot ino, w h ich is a n old m an refi ing L’Arrotino .

Upon one knee , a nd w h etting a fort of broad kn ife upon a

fione, w ith h is h ead ereét, and,as it w ere, l iftening w ith

great attention , bu t very cau tious of being obferved . Thehead and the h a ir of th is p iece a re particula rly:a

dm ired. It

See Richu dfon’s trea tife of pa inting and fculpture.

C 3

Account of the Great Duke’s Palace, Ste.

is generally though t to be a peafan t, whobeing. in the field,happened to over-hear fom e ofCa tiline

’s accom pl ices , and

difcovered them bu t the h ifl ory of tha t confpiracy , a s a lto

of that headed by u s’s fons , m ake nom ention ,

of their

bein de teé’ted by a coun try labourer .

T e fix th piec e is a grou p, reprefenting two w reil lers en

gaged, and one of them th row ing h is antagonilt, who inthe fi ruggle , at the fam e tim e breaks his ow n a rm , T hebeads in this group a re a lfo ex ecu ted w ith adm irabl e ikill ,Flam in iu s Vacca , as quoted by Montfau con in h is Irina

-a ?

r ium Ita lz'

cam , fays, tha t the piece w as dug up , in h is ti m e ,

before St. Johnfs'

ga te at Rom e a plate of it is to be -feenin Montfa

'

ucon’s antiqu ities .

Othercurio Round the tribung'is a repofitory fu ll of fm a il

, bu t veryvalu able antiqu ities ; am ong thefe is a bu lto ofT iber ius (notof Ju liu s Gefa r, as Milfon and fom e others have im agined)cu t in a tu rquoife, of the bign efs of a hen

’s egg ; fevera l

bu lls of cry lital , orien tal aga te, and ch a lcedony a l ion tea r-ging a horfe to pieces in m a rble a Venu s in th e Medicis a t:ti tude ; the m a trix of an em era ld, of w h ich part is , as it

w ere, in em bryo, the other in its fu ll perfection and m atu -g

rity , w ith m any other curiofities of art and natu re,Here are feveral fine paintings in m iniature, by Giovanni

Ba ttiita , a m onk, ofMonte Sinario, w hich is a convent fivem iles from Florence, w ho died about fix ty years ago. He

never a ttem pted any thing of h is own, bu t contented h im felfw ith copying the w orks of others 3 and how happily he fuczceeded, m ay be particu larly feen here in h is m inia ture copyon lapis l azu li , of an adoration of the lhepherds, from anoriginal by T itian . Here is alfo an adm irable original of 3

Madonna , b Correggio ; and another by Micha el Angelo ;a St. John , by Raphae l w ith a portra it of Pope Ju l iu s II .by the fam e ; to ether w ith feveral feleét pieces ofT itian ,

del Sarto, Paul eronefe,Hoibein, T intoretti, Gherardin i,

Carracci, Rubens , Vandyke, SteJu li at the entrance

, on the left hand, hangs a Mofa icw ork, reprefenting an ow l , w ith othe r birds fporting abou t

it, w h ich is com pofed of fevera l thou fands of final ] (tones;inferibed w ith the artifi o

’s nam e, v iz. P rbw nza lir a

CantoF. 1 6 I 5 .

In the'

tribune are likew ife feveral cu riou s pieces of them odern Florentine w ork of P ierreCom m ej é, one of wh ich ,

prefentin pearl fiih ery , in la id, on lapis lazuli , is a l

ays behel w ith grea t adm ira tion . Am erig thefe curiofities

A ccount of the Great'

Duke’s Palace, 8 m.

u ring it for the king ; and th is fam ous -diam ohd, toth is

day , goes by the appellation ofLe Regent. Pitt, how ever,

was obliged to take , by w ay of ex change , fevera l oth er

jew els at the Pa ris va luation ; and the hil ls w h ich he receivedas re ad m oney, being im m ediate ly a fter involved in the fa teof'th e lzl iflifii ppibonds, it is fuppofed, that infieadof the m anym illions of French livres , w hich he thought him fe lf fu re of,the m olt he got for his fam ous diam ond , w as abou t thre e

hundred thou fand dollars Thofe w ho have m ade voyage sto the Raft-Indies tel l u s of a rem arkable diam ond belongingto theGrea tMogul , the w eight ofw h ich is above two hu n

dred and {tw enty-n ine carrats , and tha t it w eighed (even hundred and n inety-three carrats before it w a s cu t .In a particu lar clofet in the tribuna are kept faverel larg e

bafons of rock cryfi a l, and vafes of lapis lazu li, aga te, cor

nelian , jafper, 3 c. fom e of thefe al fo a re let in gold and

enrichedw ith ijewel s of a prodigiou s val ue .

H ere a lfo is feen a m olt rich and adm irablefi ediolo, or ca

binet, w ith fourteen beau tiful pillars , the lh afts of w h ich

a re of [epic lazuiz’

, bu t the pedefi als and capita ls of fol id

gold, enriched w ith pearl and turquoi/Z. The interfi'iccs be

tw ixtt the , p il lars a re fil led w ith ba r-relief} , in old and ia

fiead of the heads of nails fuppofed to be u fed m fattening i t

together, nothing is feen in this cu riou s piece bu t top azes ,em eralds , (apphires , rubies , ch ryfolites , pea rls, and oth er

precious fiones . In the center of the upper part of it is a

pearl , w h ich pol libl'

y h as few equ als , being nearlybignefs of a w a ll-nut ; bu t the aqu a m ar ina , in th is piece ,is fom ething larger . It h as a lfo a topaz, w h ich is la rge

enough in circum ference to m ake a m iddle-fized fu nE-box ,and a granate of the fame fize w ith the pea rl . Th is m agn ificent cabinet ferves for keeping th ings of fu itable value , a s

gem m '

e intaglia te d’inca vo, or piem inca fuate, w h ich w e com

rhonly ca ll z'

ntaglz'

o’s and cam m i or gam m qa r il wo, or gem s

cut in relieve ; bu t as by the ir fm a llnefs they m ay eafilycom e to be m illing, the infide of th is fu penb repofitory is to

be feen only by the grea t duke’s perm ifl iom The l ike {frict

nefs is obferved w ith regard to the m eda ls , w hich a re depo

fited in ten nefi s of draw ers on the fides of the tribun a ;feven of the cabinets be ing fil led w ith antique m edal s , a nd

”

three w ith m odern .. Both col leétions a re

‘

under the care of

the lea rned, Bianch i, w ho h as al fo the charge of the w hole

About I: fierl ing.

a t F L O R E N°

C E .

tribuna ; a nd a fter obtaining a proper l icence or pem i lflion ,he al low s thofe from w hom he judges th ere is noth ing to apprehend, not on ly to take a particu lar view of every th ing,but to e x am in e them for w eeks together. He l ikew ife readily gives th e beilt light and inform at ions to [tr-angers , con

cerning th e m o lt rem arkable pieces on w h ich occafion thedrawers w h e re the m edals and intaglio

’s l ie a re brought ou t

ofthe Tribun a into one ofthe adjacent ch am bers, as m uchmore conven ien t for an accurate ex am ina tion . It is needlefsto fay , th a t for the

great trouble a ttending fuch a civility

he ex pea s a gentee acknow ledgm ent, and I hope he rs

very feldom d ifa ppointed. The lovers of m eda ls and antiquesowe ea t obl iga tions to the abbe Andrein i and the m arqu isRiccardi , for a publ ication of the fix ty

-tw o antique m s in

the rea t duke’s cabinet, which a re added to the fi partof

Salvrni’s anc ien t infcrlptions But w e m ay prom ife ou r

felves a more perfect account both of thefe, and the othercurioli ties of F lorence, in a large w ork in w hich a fociety oflearned m en a t Florence are at prefen t engaged : It is totonhil of ten volum es in Fol io, w ith the title of Mar/EmFlarenrinum . T he firfi and fecond conta in the gem s , bothintaglia

’s an d ca m m eo

’s ; the third the . m a rble fia tues ; the

fourth the bu ll s of the em perors and other celebrated per

fons ; the fifth the antique brow s ; the fix th , feventh , and

eighth, th e m edals ; the n inth and tenth the portra its of

em inent pa in ters in the collection belonging to the ga l lery .

Each volu m e is to conta in at leaft a h undred copper-plu m ,

and the w ho l e w ork (the price of w h ich w ill be forty Lam'

s

f or: 1 ) is e x pected ou t of the pre is w i thin ten or tw elve

rears . T h e director of it is the learned Antonio FrancefcoGori, w h ofe notes w ill add unqu efi ionably a confiderable

'

value to th e w ork .

But to g iv e fom e l ittle fketch of the ancient gem s , (5 c. Antique

The figilta a ntique {m i/a , or antique intaglio’s, w ith the a?

“

heads of em perors and em prefl'

es , am ount to eighty ; th emolt ra re a m ong thefe is an Adrian . Plotina , lvl a rcian a ,and Ma tidia , a re a lfo grea tly ell eem ed, and by w ay of

The title of this elaborate piece is, Irgl'

crz'

ptim m a ntiym m Gre mu ex ta nt in Etra r ia urbibw , Par: Prim e , ea :

(orpha n s , gu f faw‘ F rearm ; can:not}: Antam

'

r’

Ma r ie ’Salwim z, m pa .

trioL) cm G r a m-um lztem rum P;

‘

ofl j br ir . Ca m 3 fl udzo dntom i Fra nnfci Gem , Prej b. Flor . Bapn

'

j kriz’

(9’Etclefic S . 704m m. Aca dia ! LXII

1 Or gu ineas .0

cellence

36

m in ors.

Account of the Great Duke’s Pa lace, are.

cellenee are cal led the three worker} ; the firfi was confort tothe em perorTrajan, the {econd w as his fill er, and the th irdw as daught

‘

er to the la tter . Of the two firit Pl iny relates a s

a very ex traordina ry circum fiance , nam ely, that they l ivedfevers] yea rs in m e hou l

'

e, equally beloved and honoured,yet w ithou t the leaftjea louf difpu te, .or contention

The he ads of kings an heroes m ake forty-two piecesam ong wh ich Perfeus, Maflin iil

'

a and Cleopatra are of the

greateit value The left intaglio is of. the greatefi beau ty .

A lex ander the Great and Pyrrhu s are likew ife to be feet:

in this colleétion. Here are alfo for ty iataglia’s rep

-ciao

peria na in m a iks, twenty-eight phi lofophers and poets, an

near a hundred pieces ofPagan deities, a ll antiques . Am ongthefe lafi , J upiter, Serapis , N eptune, and Pi

'

yche are the

m oitrare, bu t Serapis and Apollo a re belt ex ecuted. Nex t

to the le com e fifteen very large antiques, am ong which ,

Jole cu t in a chryfol ite is the m oltval uable on accoun t of th e

fione . Rom u lus in a cornel ian, a nd Hercules in an am e

th ifi , a re greatly adm ired for their workm anih ip . Th elargeit am ong thefe is a Pa llas in a cha lcedony as big a s a

m iddl ing {h uff-b ox . Here is a tranfparent hard p ny x w ith

Apollo on one tide and Mars on the reverfe tha t on w h ichMars

‘fiands is w hite and convex . There are al fo m ore ofthe l ike , and other forts of gem nae ; and the num ber th a tis {hewn depends on the traveller

’s difpofition and curiofity ,

for they are not yet reduced into the orderdefigned.

Thefe intaglio’s of the heathen gods are fol low ed by th e

m ythologica l , h iilorical, and others , to the am oun t of a

thoufand .

~ Am ong thefe are feveral ofHercu les’s labours a

m ofi: curious piece ofBellerophon killing the chim ae ra ; th e

Bacchana lia fin ely ex ecu ted, and the fun in the m iddle ofth eZodiac, w h ich is a na tu ra l w hite c ircle in the ROM , on th eOther fide of w h ich is the goddefs Luna in her car.Here are alfo grea t num bers of m odern {m ag/w 3 (ct in

O PB” , 27 tam prom o): ad fi multa ter,

ea porro m a x im nafcim r ex ca ) :

im vidia , m j urfini: q? editors. Quaga rden adx zirabilzm tx iflim a a du m (If, and m ul ier ibm dy a bm if; m dom e

form , indium (erra tum , contentioqfl, fife.Nothing is m ore apt to caufe fecret m alice and hatred than jealou fy ,

efpecia lly am ong w om en thi s arifes from a clofe aflinity , is increa fedc by equa lity . and grow s into envy , w hich at lafi ends in ha tr ed .

W efore it m a indeed be thought the m ore ex traordinary , tha t N o

ladies of equ a l ortung , living together in one koufe, never had an yqu arrel , any dilpute, 3 c.

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

Gold coins .The wholenum ber ofm edAls at

Florence.

Account of the.

Great Duke’s Pala’

ce, &c.

teenLou is d’orr, and reprefents the em peror John Pa laeologus

VII . w ho a llifi ed at the council of Florence .

The gold, lilver, and copper m eda ls firu ck in honou r ofcities and {tates am ount to fifteen hundred pieces . In th iscla l

'

s the gold and copper ones are the m olt rare . The whole

colleétion is com pofed of fourteen thoufand antique m eda ls

and eight th'

ou l'

and m odern . Of the m odern pieces n ine

hundred are of gold, two thou fand of filver, of w hich th e

l argeft is ofColino III; and about three thoufand ofcopperbut the la tter are not yet difpofed into proper order . One

particu lar cabinet is appropriated to the prefent current coinof a ll

/the fevera l parts of the w orld

An accu rate ex am ination of fuch a m ultitude of cu riofities w il l requ ire freq place . A {m all gratu ity _

to the‘

Qdoor-keeper adm its one a t a ll tim es to the la rge

gallery of fi atues bu t as to the tribuna , the intagla’s and

cam m eo’s , the m eda ls

‘

and fom e other cu riofities, a previou s

agreem ent m u ll:be m ade w ith Bianch i.

The a rm er ia [Em-ta , or private arm ory , into w h ich the

grea tfia llery Opens , is not to be om itted, a s a perfon of a

m arti difpolition m a

ybe better pleafed w ith it than w ith a l l

th e ra rities of the gal cry and tribuna . Here are {hew n th e

armours of the princes of the benfe ofMedicis , w ho for m i

l ita a tch ievem ents how ever, do not m ake the m ofi dill in

nixed figu re in h ifiory . W e m ull ex cept only Lorenzo defil edicis and princeMatth ia s , brother to the grea t duke Ferd inand II .

’

w ho lhew ed him felf -a brave officer in a th irty

y ea rs w ar,

’and has h ere im m ortalized h is m em ory by a

fi anda rd taken from the duke of W eym ar . On one fide ofthe enfign Raff a re thefe w ords in Germ an , Brifld to it,

joyfu lly from it,’and on the other fide, God pro per us .

"

On one l ide of the ltandard itfelf a re thefe w ords in em broi

der A l l goe s well w ith God

’s aflifianee,

’and on the other

in l a tin , Sm : nam ine zsflra , W ithout God a l l a ttem pts

a re va in and fru itle s At the four corners of the fam e fide

a re the letters B .

‘ D . 8 . PV. i . e. Berna rdm Dux Sa x-om }: ”f im a r imfiHere a re a lfo lh ew n feveral pieces of a rm our of the Perfian

and T u rkifh cava lry , and bridles , qu ivers, £5 7 . and a lfo a

m a ll: belon ing to a T urkifh foltana , taken on board a

(h ip by the Pfiorentine gall ies . The m a ik is qu ite pla in'

, bu t

th e qu iver is ornam ented w ith a few chryfol ites and tuck.

quoifes . Here a re likew ife a (ct ofRom an arm ou r ; a fw ord

of Charles the Great ; two piflols, w ith a l'word and z

l

fi il

etto

at‘

F L O R E N C E .

letto in the fam e fcabbard ; a teru m ,

‘

or fm a ll p ifiol w ith aolden barrel, being a prefent fun the em peror Leopold tofm o III . a m ufltet w ith a barrel ofgold w eighin n ineteen

pounds ; a piece confifi ing of four pifiols'

oin togetherw h ich m ay be concea led in a hat, invented Anthony ofMedicis fevera l (m a ll m odels of al l kinds of re arm s ;

‘

two

Turkifh horfe-tails a faddle of king John Sobiclki princeRadziv il

’s bridle enriched w ith turkquoifes ; an iron helm et

which the keeper of the pretends to h ave belonged toHann ibal , it having been foun in the l ake ofThm fim ene ; F

the w ork w ith the ch aracters feeri on it being Arabic ; fom elhields pa inted by Raphael , another wh ich rcprefents thefiorm ing of a city by Ju lius Rom anus, and anotheron wh ichis a Medu fa

’s h ead pa in ted by the fam ous V inci ; the habit

of a W eft-India kin m ade of red fea thers ; aout of a hugle bufi

'

oe’s hyde two

'hundred andlen h .

Ot

n a table of green andwhite m arble (l ands a [m all brafbhorl

'

e, ’

fpringing up on his h ind legs, done by Giovanni Bologna a (m al l eque l

’trian fta tue of bronze by the .

ingeniou sFerdin and T aco. Along the w a ll of one of the cham bersis hung the ex traordinary m ane ofa grey horfe, prefented bCharles duke of Lorra in to the great duke Cofm o III it i s

{aid to be twenty feet, or according to others fourteen ellslong ; how ever, of fevera l ha irs w hich I took the liberty todraw ou t, I cou ld not find oone that ex ceeded an ell . A few ,

years fin ce Lord G-e had a (ct of grey horfes that ufed to

run in h is coach a t London , the m anes of w h ich a lm oitfwept the ground. It is {a id tha t abou t that tim e the Englilh governm ent apprehendin an infura'ea ion, though t me

publi c fafe requ ired, th a t t e horles of al l Rom an ca tho

lies {hou ld e taken from them , as is ufua l in fuch junétures .

Upon th is m y lord G-e abjured the Popilh religion, and

was not a l ittle ral lied on that account, as if th is Changnot proceed from a conviction of error, but the love he bore

to his line horfes . The queen ofEngland fom e tith e a fterra lly ing h im on tha t head, a lhed h im how he cam e nor to

preva il upon his lady to follow h is good ex am fl e ? Towhom

Hanniba l’s vifi o over the Rom ans . is related a t large by Livy lib.

XXII , Oroliu s lib. c. 1 5, Polybios lib. UL. But it w as not ufiJ alfor conqu erors to lofe their helm ets . In this action how ever, both fideswere fo en that neither arm y , in the leafi, perceived a pretty finart

ea rthquake w°

eh happened during the battle.

go Account of the Great fi uke’ii Palat e, 8rd:the lord Gam a -e m ade this blunt anth er, As for women‘,m adam , it does net fignify what re ligion th ey are of.

’

Fine altar Lafi ly , a travel ler m utt not. ch i t feeing the altar in th e465

g!“ for lower filo ofthe pal ace that we have been defcribin

t'is delig for the new ch apel of St.Laurence . It 15

deed quite fin iflaed, t is fo bea u tiful ly ornam ented w ith

gem s inlaid in th e F orentine tafi e, tha t one cannot fu lfi

Fea for fee cientiy amnine it. The ex pence offeeing the ga llery andthefeins the few m l cabinets am ounts to about forty of W hit“m“°°l’

keeper'

of the m eda ls and gem s only for once Chew ing th em

is ent itled to fifteen .

Elaboratory . Near th is bl ind ing is thefm deria , Of the dukes elabora:

tory for al opera tions , in wh ich are Made thofe ba l~

fam e and nces whidh the duke fends as prefents to fore ign

princes . Here, am ong oth er thin

gs , is feen a portra it of

Anthony de Medicis as big a s th e li e, w ith th is infeription t

tw irl: ingenr,

gum colit a rt: lotus,Pa r Pbazbo m edians qu a wir e: tm x it abbtrbi:

1 Here Anthony de Medicis , renowned for w ifdom andm agnanim ity,

'

u fed w ith lingu lar ikili to cu ltivate thefu l arto f chym ifiry ; th e fire by which , like Pbarbw , he

m edica l virtue s from herbs and l im pies, h as

g ive n to his repu tation a blaze w h ich latell pofterity {ha ll

Of this noble chym ilt M ething m ore flsa l l be faid in theaccount of the chu rch of Al l-Saints .

The great duke’s ufua l pl ace of refidence is th e Pa lazzo de

'

Petti, (0 ca lled from the fam il to W h ich it firfi belonged. I ts

fron t, on account of the r ic w ork and unhewn {tones ofw hich it confilts , m akes no very beau tiful a ppeara nce, bu t

towards the court and ga rdens the architecture is tolerablelegant particu larly the difpofition of dark pil lars in the fifiory , of ionic in the m iddle, and car intbia n in th e th ird,W t h is very regu lar and ornam ental . A grea t faul t in thecou rt is its ex trem e narrow nefs in proportion to the lengthand heigh t of the bu ilding. On the righ t, hand of the en ‘

trance of this palace lies a large m agne t, w hich Span m akes»

at F L O R E N C E . 3:

tow eigh five tho‘

u fa nd pounds , bu t/ it ha s hu cobeen dam agedby fire . T he Sw ifs g

u a rds h ere,'

upon fee ing a ny fore ignersSw irs

approach ing, im m edi a tely‘

run to rub th eir h ulba rds on th is W 'd“

load-fi c h e , and afterw a rds hold them‘

up w ith a range ofkeyshanging to th em by m agnetifi

‘

n . T h is a rtifice for getting a

little m oney is ex cellive l m ean bu t th a t the nards {hou ld

in pla in term s here, and h ow il'

e at the Pa lazzoéocch io te izefiran ers for a few pence, feem s very little to com port w ith

the dign ity and m unificence of their m ail er.

In a rotto in the Cou rt-ya rd of the Palazzo Petti, is a pori Statue of

phyryu e ofMoles, bigger than the l ife . Not far from MW ”

thxs fl a tu e, in a corner on the left hand, is the reprefen ta tion

of a m u le in 6a o-ralim a, w h ich w as very ferviceable in the

building of th i s edifice ; and in req'

uital of h is ferv ice LucasPitti, the firfi proprietor ofth is place, erected th is m onum ent,W ith the following infeription

m a rm ora , a , columnar,

Th is laborious creatu re w as ferviceable in carrying and

draw ing on ll edges all the fiones , m arble, tim ber, and pil

lars em p loyed in this vafi edifice .

’

A m u le having fig’

nalized its fi rength and alacrity in the M im i“

building of a tem ple at Athens , w as afterwards m a inta in"N !“

in cafe and plenty at the public charge, and l ived eightyearsyOver th e ba4

b—relz’

w a of the m ule is‘

a line antique fia tu ehe apa rtm ents of the pa lace a re w el l fu rn ilh

ed, cia lly w ith fine i&ures . T he principa l of thefe are

feve Madonna’s , by fiaphael andAndrea del Sarto ; Pha

raoh giv ing Jofeph th e golden cha in , by the fam e 5 fou r largeba ttle-p ieces , by Burguignone ; fom e other capita l piece s ,by Salvatore Ra fa , and one by Rubens St. Ma rk, by Fra .

Bartholom eo ; an a fcenfion-p iece, by the fam e ; Leo X.

w ith two cardina ls , by Raph ael ; ca rdin al Bentivagl io, b

Vandyke 5 Luther pla ing’

on the harpfichond, w ith h is w i e

fitting by h im , and ucer beh ind, ove

rlooking h im , byGiorg ione ; the virgin Mary , Chrifi , and St. John , in one

piece , by del Sarto Nl a ry Magda lene , by Leonardo da Vin

ci 5we l ife of the patriarch Jofeph , in a piece divided into

0 Vid . Rhodig . us. x iii. c:51 . Plin . a n . Na t. lib. viii. c. 44

32 Account of the GreatDuke’s Palace,

feveral com partm en ts , by Andrea del Sarto, and the annun

ciation of the v irgin Mary , by the fam e ; two (m allMadon~

n a’s , by Anniba l Caracci ; and feveral pieces , by the elder

Pa lm a , T itian , &c .

Pietro Berettin i di Cortona , who pa inted the cielings and

frizes of the th ree ch am bers , ca lled Ie Cam er a dz' Giov e, diMa tre C9

’di Vm ere has e x h ibited in them the h

‘

eroic virtu es

of the fam ily of the Medicis , in em blem s taken from the

h ifiory of the pagan gods . Of thefe pieces, adm ired by a ll

connoifl'

eurs, Cornelius Bloem aert and Jam es Blondeau have

publ ilhed prints in fix and tw enty copper-pla tes , w h ich a t

Rom e are (old for fix fi udi and an half. The n am e of the

celebrated at tili Pietro diCortona is here eafily tra ced in the

w ords Corona de’Pittori .

The a artm ents of the h ighefl' Rory , and~theManfa rde

afford a ne profpeét of th e w hole city for the palace {landson a (m a l l em inence , bu t on the g arden

' fide incre'

afes To,th a t pa rterres have been laidout equal in height to the (econdand th ird fiories .

The duke’s

'

librar‘

y in th is building doth not w ant books

but the are in a very bad condition 5 the late keeper of, it,

.

Maglia ecchi w w el l known in the republ ic of letters Hedied on the 4th 0 Ju l 1 7 1 4, tow hom , by only fubfi itutingth e wordMem o i eadofGen iu s, Ow en

’s epigram on the

u niverfity ofOx ord w as very applicable.

Nu lla tuce pa r B ibliotbea z gfl alt

Ingm io pa r B ibliot/m '

a tuo.

No other l ibra ry can equ al th ine,Nor th is thy boundlefs gen ius can confine ,W hofe v iew e x tends o

’er learning

’s fpacious pl ain ,

And far fu rpafl'

es a ll tha t books con tain .

’

The Jel'

u its and he equ al ly ha ted each other ; and hew as part icu la rly nettled a t th is character w hich they gave of

h im

The m aufa rde, or ga rrets w ith flattedfor fervants room s, do not derive their nam e, as {o

Manfard, the fam ou s French architea , a s the firfi ihow ever, by h is im provem ents he brought them into

dued in the year 1 666 .

at F L O R E N C E .

Efl Dol lar interBibliotbecar iordédBibliotbeca riur interDefi an t.

He appears learned am ong librarians, but a librarykeeper am ong the learned.

’

His ow n library m ade a very indifi'

erent appea rance, the

books l y ing on the round in heaps ; bu t by the alliltance of

his gre a t m em o gl iabecchi cou ld im m ediately find the

books on any fit jeét th at w as ta lked of. The books w hich

he frequ en tly confu lted bore the m arks of (nu ll, w h ich hetook to ex cefs ; and others , w h ich had ferved him for plates ,were da ubed w ith yolks o f eggs , w h ich w ere h is principl

a l

food . By the length of‘

h is nails he refem bled a Harpy . e

very fe ldom changed h is l inen ; (0 that when a th in w as

once pu t on , it rem a ined a s long as it would h ang upon h is

back. A s he l ived in th is fordid m anner, and h ardly ever

waihed h im felf, it is no wonder that the ofl'

enfive efi uvia

he om itted cou ld fcarce be borne w ith , bu t for the pleafure

ofh is converfation . If a l ift w as to be publifhed of lea rned

and in n iou s llovens, Magliabecch i would undoubtedly beintitl to th e firfi place am ong them ; bu t w ith m any il

lufiriou s n am es in hi s retinue , as St. Evrem ont, Poiret,Leibn itz, Sch urtzfle ifch , Eckard, and m any others of everyage and n a tion, and in all branch es of litera tu re , arts, and

fciences . The n m phs of Parnall'

us m ull not h ave been

over-nice to fam i iarize them felves with fuch a (ct ofdifgufi

ful m ortal s .

33

From the pa lace de’Petti there is a covered gal le for A can a l

the grea t duke to go to the Pal azzoVecch io, or old p ace,

where , th rough l ittle priva te appertu res , he can hear and fee

the tra n laétions in the feveral cou rts of judicatu re i Th is

gal lery is fix hu ndred paces in len fix paces in breadth ,and e igh t in he igh t. On th e w

‘ ls on both fides are fine

paintings , ex h ibi ting the m olt rem arkable actions of the

em peror Ch arles V . Phil ip H. of Spa in , Henl

ry IV .

’

king of

France, and the great duke Ferdinand II . h e only fa u lt

in th is ga llery is , that it is not l a id ou t in a direct line, but

form s a rea t m any w indings and angles .

Trave l ers w ho have a m ind to fee the gardens of the Gardens;Pal azza de

’Petti , are a ttended by a Sw ifs , w ho for a piece

of,m oney is very obl iging and ofliciou s . Th is garden“

is

called il G iardino di Boboli, and is no lefs th an three Ita

lian m iles in circum ference.

ll

;he higheil part of it has

of:m

L 3

Account of the Great fi'

uke’s l’alace, Std.m olt

.

cl to «St, articu lar] tow ards Po'

o .l rials;Large fiatue a villa

gbzlbngingte

o the?grea t duke . The fife obi

-i1

56;here°f

tha t fi rikes the eye, is the la: e . fountain. fac ing , thegardenfront of the palace, w ith a Niptune of m arble bigger than

the l ife, in a fhell of Egyptian granate , th irty-fix feet in

circum ference . Three other fi a tu es of’the Ganges , Nile ,

and Euph ra tes , are reprefent’

ed in a fitting pofture pouringw a ter into the ibell . This adm irable group w as both ih

vented and e x ecu ted by . Giovann i Bologna , a.

native of

bouay . In (cm ofthe grottos and founta ins in thisg arden

Statues by are to be feen, am ong fevera l others, fou r flam es , by Mi

and ch ael Angelo, w h ich w ere defign ed for ,

the m onum ent of

pepe J u lius II bu t the a rtill’s relation andheir thought theym en. wou ld be better difpofed of in a prefcnt to the g rea t duke

a fl lgopa tra , in a recl in ing a ttitude , by Bandin e lli ; Paris

carry ing cflfHe len , and Hercu les in the gigan tic taffeta-“ by

Vincenzo di Rolii ; Adam and E ve in latter

Lean ing on Adam’s fltou lder, a nd h iding her face w ith her

hands , w h ilfi Adam . appears w ith a countenance fu ll of, m e

lancholy , and h is .eyes fix ed on the ground, The grottos

a re fal ling to decay in feveral pla ces ; but noth ing can be

more inchanting than the alleys and covered w a lks oflanrel

and other o

ever-a-greens in thi s garden and every , part zof it

abounds w ith efpa liers oforange, lem on , pomgranate-trees,

and jeflanfine, w hich, by their beau ty and fragrancy ex hjla

are alfop rivate wa ter-wprks contrivedfor w etting firangers, by w ay of (port ; bu t th is kind of (por

t,

a ll th ings confidered, feem s to m e,

‘

l ike m olt others , not to

be very rationa l . x

O n one fide of the garden is the duke’s m anage rie, where

are kept ofiriches , Ch inare geej'

eu pheafants , pa rrots” and

other e x otic birds , and a lfo,Corfican deer, of a very fm a ll

breed. Here is l ikew ife a kind ofcrane ca lled Ku rlt i, w h ich

has been taugh t to dance to a certain t im e when p layed or

PMof firing“ Lions , tygers , panthers , bears,

£5ff‘

fifaM w ildbeafl s , a re kept in anoth erpart ofthe c ity , not far from

im o their Stx Ma rkfs fquare, ,ca lled Seragl io de

’Lion i, eve one of

dem o the le hav ing, before its den, a long piece of ro to w alk

ingfor il l“ Som e; yea rs ago. a t grofs w he ped here, bu t

eat'

u p o

her.

‘ young ones :a s {oon as.file;h ad brought them forth,The clofe for hun ting thefewildbeafis is very w ell contrived,

and a t the conclufion of the (port they a re driven into theiraga in»by Means g fa la

‘

rgt:hollow. m achincrefem hl infi

.

3 dragon s for,’

cing two or three men, w ith ligh te

torches

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

. Account of the Great Duke’s Palace; 8cc.

Here are depofited the bones of a horfe belonging to

Charles Capelli, the Venetian,

em baflador. For thy great

fervices during the fiege of th is city ,

Thy grateful m afier,‘

generou s (teed, cdotl1'

raifeTh i s m onum ent to thy im m orta l prai l

'

e .

He died March 1 3,

W ithou t the city a re two very fine palaces , ca lle'

gio, or Vil la Itnperia le , and Pratol ino ; the form e r is

talian‘

m ile from the city , in a direét l ine

m ana , w ith a {l ately aven u e, confifl ing of a double row of

cyprefs and la rch-trees leading to it, w ith bea u tifu l vine

y a rds , convents, a nd v illas on each fide . A t the entra nce

ofth is w a lk one fees , u pon tw o pedefta ls , ornam en ted w rth

augh ter of Cha rles archdu ke of Au

her h u lband: Fu rther to the right 1 8

l ion ram pa n t, holding a globe in one

aw , a

fen‘

tingSienn a . e of w a ter h

fi a tu es and A rbia ,the ir u rns and likew i le, oppofite to thofe , on four pedef

ta ls , {l and the fl a tnes ofHom er, Virgil , Dante , a nd Pe

tra rch . Fronting the pa lace is a l arge am pithea tre w ith

cyprefs-trees , and a {l one ba luftrade . On one fide of the

en trance is a la rgem a rble fl a tue ofAtl a s; w ith the globe on

h is fhou lders ; and on the other fide a Ju piter of th e fam e

magn it ude, grafping th e thu nder —bolt in h is h and. The

ou t 1de of the pa lace indeed m akes no very grea t figure ; butw ith in, the apartm ents are veny large and convenient . In

the loweft a l lery are to be feen a porphyry head of A le x

ander the (grea t ex piring, fev’er‘

a l bu ll s of Rom a n em perors,a nd fourfi a tu es of pagan deities . In the ap artm ents of the

low er flo

riyare tw o pil la rs of g reen m a rble , {potted w ith

black“

an W h ite ; the celebra te d {ta tu e of Adonis in w hi te

m a rble, by Michael Angelo and a n adm irable m ofa ic

w ork, reprefenting the baptifrnof Chrifi ,“

in w h ich , thoughi t is

"

not qu ite fo la rge a s a com m on {beet of paper,vera l t hou fan

ipieces ofg em s, in an ex aa: im ita tion of a

fine pictu re . car th is h angs a crucifix ion , en am elledw itha va rie ty of colours , from a defign ofRaphael, wh ich is a

5

a t F L O R E N C E .

m olt ex qu ifite piece . The w alls of the oratory are beau ti

fu lly ornam ented w ith in laid-work fevera l pieces infir

e/Ea;by Volterrana ; the other pa intings in the chapel are byA leflandro Allori . In one of the cham bers is an octangu lar

table, ofFlorentine m arble, w ith a m in in the m iddle, andfevera l figu res inla id. Round it is a (ea , in w hich al fo are

feen fev'

eral filh es fw im m ing. T h is table is l ike thofe in‘

the city l ibra ry a t Geneva , bu t not equ a l to them in beauty. Th e pom ela in-cham ber is hung w ith e x cellent

in m inia ture, and the other apa rtm ents abound in fine por

tra its p articu la rly a Venu s by T itian, and a curiou s w ax

bufto of Hortenfia , aunt to cardina l Mazarin ; the features

are delica te, bu t the com plex ion fom eth in du ll and fw a rthy .

In the fecond fie ry , a long t he fou r fi es of the inw ardcourt, runs a ga llery , adorned w ith a great m any m arblebulls , and fine portra its . I t open s into fevera l apartm ents ,

finely fu rn ilhed, w here , am on other c urious pain ngs , are

four m il l refl’

es ofkin Cha rles I . of England and Petrarchand h is La ura , by bert Drurer. Here are fevera l va lu ablecabin ets of tortoife- lhel l, ebony , c m other-of-pea rl,and cora l ; l ikew ife fom e pieces 0 m ofaic and Florentine

work . T he furn itu re of th is pa lace is in general very m agnificent bu t as there is feldom any th in very cu rious m

thefe th ings , and as they a re frequently a tered, I {h a ll notin a very pa rticu la r defcription of them .

e tapeftry of the audience-cham ber are reprefented

feveral princell'

es and grea t du tchefi'

es of Florence, whofe

faces and h ands a re a s beau tifu l a s if they ‘w ere done w ith

a pencil , and the cloa th s a re the very fam e i s thofe ladiesw ore in their tim e . Here is a lfo w oven w ith the fam e del i

cac Mary deMedicis , and h er young fon Lew is XIII . kingof rance .

T h e palace ga rdens a re adorned w ith fine founta ins , w a

ter-w orks , grottos , hedges of je li'

am in , ever-greens , andorangeries ; bu t in w in ter, the la tter a re either covered or

tied togethe r . Am ong the reft, here is a particu la r fpec ies

of ora nges , of a deep red w ith in and w ithou t, w h ich feem

to be a m ix tu re of th e peach and com m on orange. Theyare found in grea t qu an tities in th e orange

-gardens near

Hieres in Provence The Villa Im perial e affords very no

The au thor is m iftaken in th inking th is fruit a m ix ture of peach andthe com mon ora nge . I fou nd, u n enqu iry a t Hieres , near Tou lon

,that th ere red oranges are produc by orangegtrees grafted onpom eg

ra

a reas .

49

S tatues;

s

C n u a c Hz s and other religiou s Bu ildingslirboj r

‘ratum , or m ofa ic-worlt of the annunciation of the

,

Virgin

Mary, b Dom en ico Gh irlanda io, and confequently to be

difi'ingu i ed from another annunciation of the fam e work,

2Gaddi, on the in fide of the m ain entrance into th e

urch .

This adm irable cupola, wh ich is thew ork ofBrunalefch i,is oétan la r, and the breadth of each fide twenty

-five feat .

Mi'

ch acAngelo'

is (aid to have been of opin ion , that it w a s

im poflible to bui ld anoth er equ al to it ; bu t he him felf con

fu ted his afl‘

ertion , h av ing fu rpafl'

ed it in the cupola of St .

Peter’s at Rom e, wh ich even ex ceeds tha t of Florence in

h eight. The pa intings in the upper part rep refen ting th e

m anfions"

ofblil'

s , and below them the place of torm ents , w ere

perform ed by Frederic Zu ccaro, in w h ich th is fau lt is oh

vions, that the poftures and a ttitudes of m any of the figu re s

a re very indecent ; this does notveryw ell agree w ith the ideaof th e refurreétion .

Under the cupola is the choir, w ith the pillars of wh icha re interm ix ed the fia tu es of th e twelve apofi les , in w h item a rble, by different h ands ; bu t the befi is St . Jam es , byJacobo Sanfovini. On the great a l tar Rand th ree m a rble

fi atues, bi ger than the l ife , one ofGod the fa ther fitt ing ,the two ot ers reprefenting the deadbody ofChriftfupported

by an angel ; of thefe it is fufiicient to fay th at they w ere

done by Bandinelli . B eh ind th is a ltar form erly fl ood tw o

fi atu es ofou r firfi progen itors , by the fam e grea t m ail er bu t

th e connoifl'

eurs obferved th a t Eve w as im properly reprefen t

ed bigger th an Adam . I th ink the chu rch is of . a ll places

the lea f: proper for nudities , and on th is account they h av e

a t length been rem oved to a private place near the prebenda~

r ies apartm ents . In th is choir is a lfo a m arble pieta (or th eV ir in Ma ry w ith our Saviour

’s dead body ) be ing the l a ft

W orlt ofMich ael Angelo, a nd brought h ith er from Rom e .

On the right hand, near th e m ain entrance of the ch u rch ,is a m arble buflo of the celebrated architect Ph ilip Brunalefch i, W ith th is epitaph

a rc/1 1°

refl ux art: (bed ded v a luerz'

t, cum

l m m ira tefi udo, tum plan's m a c

-bind: div ine

ingenib ab ea adinw utce docum enta gflé pofi mt, qu a'

propter ab ex

im ia s u i a nim i ‘ date: fingu la rgfque v irtutes x v . Ka l . Maj i a m wMC CCXLVI . ey

’

a s b. m . corpus in bar bum ofuppaj itum gra te

at F L O R E N C E .

OfPh ilippa the‘

architect’s uncom m on iltill in m ed i a ;

nics, the wonderfu l cupola of this chu rch , as well as a greatnum ber of m achines invented by h im , are confpicuous

proofs upon which accoun t, and in confiden tion of hisex traordinary m erit, endowm ents , and v irtu es , h is gratefulcoun t ordered his body to be depofited in this facred

groun April 1 7, 1 4463

is the epitaph of the celebrated painter and ar,ti, or G iotto, by Politianus :

MCCCCLXXXX.

Natu re having given m e a Borreét and eafy hand, I em

p l ed it in reviving the ex tin uilhed art of painting. Myfkil kn ew no other bounds gran thofe of nature 5 . none

pa inted m ore, nor ex ecuted their pieces better. Beholdtha t fia tely tow er, from w hence the confecra ted bel ls {um -l

m on u s to divine worfhip ; it raifed its afpiring head to

the fl a re, according to a m odel inven ted b

d, m e . Lafi ly ,

l am Jotti, w hat can verfe fay m ore ? He ied in the yea rr336,

-a,nd his fel low-citizens erected th is to his m em ory , asa

’

rew ard for h is m erits ,

G iotto w a s born in 1 276, and was one ofGiovanni Ci

m abu e’s difciples .

1 !

On th is fide of the church is alfo Teen the m arble bufio

ofMa rfil ius Ficinus , w ith th is epitaph :

Stranger,

I

MarfdiusFicinns, rem arkabl e for theex ceeding [m anners

of h is fia tu te, accru ire'

d a great reputation both By a tranfl ation ofPlato, and h h followers Plotinns, am blicu s

'

, Pfellus ,and Synefiu s, and b

"

his ownwr iting , a»:diédlin the y ear1 49 in the fix tyrliicth ye ar ofhis, age .

[fete are a lfo'

feveral m onum ents of the .

bill ings of th is

ch urch ; d the m em ory bf a councilh eld hereis prefervedin the foll

l

dwing infcription cu t in{tone near the veftry

For p rpetu a ting the remem brance of happyof the reeks; w h ich , after long debates , l n

‘

th e generalcouncil h eld in the city of Florence,

‘

v'

va'

s com plea tefd"

in

th is church on the 6th day of Ju ly , pope Eu ene

bein refident of that council , a nd the Latin prefatesand i igrops aflifi ing ; on the other

'

fide, the em peror ofConftantinople, w i th the Grecian bithops ,

‘l

prela tes, andnobles 4 guestnumbers, rcng uncing their errors, agreeda

fid

gm entail to the truly right faith held by the Rom an

c urQ

fi

fl

fl

fl

fi

fi

fl

fl'

'f‘ hat theGreekchurch, in theyear sass, rsliaqu ifhed itspretended errors, and agg

’

gg l toanunion with that ofRom e,

1 8 0

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44. Cn u a e'

n a s a nd other religiou s BuildingsFine names Near the church is a fquare tower bu ilt w ith red, w h ite,on the

(OW .

and black m arble ; and on it are ereéted a great num ber of

fine ltatues particu larly an old ba ld-headed m an , by»Dona

tell i, w hich h e u fed to‘

ca ll his Zuccone or ba ld-head, prol

ferring it to his other fia tues partly on account of the ex cel

l'

eney of the w ork, a nd partly becaufe of its grea t refem blanceto h l S intim a te friendG iovanni Barducci Ch ierichin i. Here

is a lfo Abraham’s intended facrifice of h is {on Ifaac, b Do

n a to, or Donatello, as he w as m ore com m only'

ca lle from

the finallnefs of h is fta ture r The heght of this tower is laidto be a hundred and forty-four bram

'

a .

nBM W’

-Oppoiite to the ca thedra l is il Battifierio, orSchurch, fuppofed to h ave been anciently a tem ple

It is of am oél angul ar form , and has three ga tes of bronze

form erly gilt ; on w hich feveral h ifiories of the old

tefiam ent are [0 adm irably ex prell'

ed in brW o rcfiw o, tha tMich ael Angelo, in the . e x tafy of h is adm ira tion, cou ld not

forbear faying tha t they w ereworthy to be the gates ofPa ra

. On the m olt ancient of them is th is infcription, thew ingwhore work it is

I ndra } Ugolim'

dc Pf/is m e,

f m’

t am w I 330.

Andrew Ugolini; a Pifan, was the artifi that m ade m e

in the year

The other two, w h ich are al fo of linerw orkm anlh i are

m ade by LorenzoGh iberti, a (cu lptor and goldfm ith ogli‘ lo-irence, as appea rs by th is infeription under one of th em

La m a-fa im s dc s

'

bem'

r m a artefabr icatum ,

Made by the furprifing art ofLorenzo Cio Ghiberti.’

T he feftoons in th is w ork W ere ex ecu ted by h is (onBon acoffa . Al l th ree feem to be m ade in im ita tion of the doors

of th e cathedra l at Pita, bu t m ay be laid grea tly to fu rpafs theori ina ls .

er th e ch ief entra nce are three m arble fia tues reprefen tl

ing Chrifi’s baptifm , begun by Sanfovino, and fin ilh ed by

V incenzoDanti. By th e h it m entioned a rt ifi a re the th reebrafs liernes, over the other door, of the decolla tion ofJohnthe Baptifi. Over the th ird door are three fia tues in bran

?of

ohn

at F L O R E N C E .

John theBaptifl:difcourfingw ith a Phan'

fee and a Scribe :Nearthe m a in entrance is a fine pillar ofgranate, being a prefent

from the Pifans to the city ofFlorence . In the chu rch arelarge p illa rs of orien tal granate, and the m onum ent of Bal

thafar Cofl'

a , or, as he 13 {tiled in the epita h , John XXIII.who w as degraded from the triple crow n y the council ofConfi ance . T he bra fs ftatue of him on th is m onum ent, as

l ikev'

vife the two others of m arble re refentin'

Hope and

by Dona tel lo, bu t tha t of a ith b'

chelozzi.

w as rew arded w ith a thoufand orins ; which

was a ver confiderable fum at tha t tim e

Th e w ole ciel ing ofthis church is ofm ofaic work, reprefeuring em inen t perfons, and done b Apolloniu s a Greek,Andrea T afi , G addi, we. edthe children born ofch riitian pa ren ts w ithin the city of Florence are baptifed.

The fon t is large an adorned w ith fevera l beau tifu l m ar

ble fcu lptures ; particu larlya fia tue of John the Baptift

it, by Gio eppoPiem ontani . The pavem ent

s in la id, and on one fide of it are reprefentq

ed the fun and the tw elve figns of the Zodiac, w ith the fol J"

which m ay be read backw ards :

Ea g iro tort: Sal cider, ct rotor igt e,

Behold the fu n purfu es his oblique w ay ,And w ith his fiery vortex brings t he day .

’

On m idfum m er day at noon , the fun is faid to be direa lyconcen tric to a folar difk cu t in a w indow oppofite to th i s

reprefenta tion of tha t glorious lum ina ry .

Am ong the rel iques of th is chu rch , the people worlh ipwith the m a ll zea lou s adoration the fin er w ith wh ich it is

pretended John the Baptift pointed to efu s when he faid,Beh ol d the lam b ofGod.

’

45

Not fa r from the baptifiery , in oing from the Porta dall Monum ent

Opera , is a pil lar fa id tobe ere in in m em or

yof a

m ira cle perform ed by the body of Zenobius biihop o F10

rence, w hen it w as rem oved from the ch urch of St. La u

rence to the ca th edral . T he Rory goes, that the bier h ap

pening to touch an old w ithered elm in the w ay , it im m e

diately becam e found and clothed w ith the l ivel iefi:verdure .

Mill'

on ~fays , tha t in the church of St . Maria N ipotecofa

they thew a crucifix m ade of thew ood of th is tree.

C H U 11 en 1! s and other religioufi‘

Bu ildings

Miracle in S t. Ambrofe’s church is rent

-a rkable only for the m iracle

favour of which W as pretended tobe Wrought th e re fif th! year 1 230,m fi’bfim '

when the wine left ir'

r'

the chal ic

e”?the negligence of the

p’

rieftW as tranfubltant'

iated inté bl w hich is to this daypreferved as a.m elt venerable reliqu e. Th belongs

to the Benédiél ine nun s , and is’

al fo a parochia l one, a ciréumfiance v ery. lingu lar in a nunnery church .

Church of In th echurch del? Annunziata , the w alls and eloifi‘

érs are“36 33 mm

“

hung with Votive i‘ces o fwood, paper, W ax ; Ur. It is

$2333 “riot a l ittle oblig to a m iracu lous image of the VirginV irgin Mary w h ich brin a gbod

‘ deal of m oney to,the clérgy .

T he fiery is,‘

that e fervants of st -Maq , or fervite mam ,

w whom the church and adjacent convent:belong, em ployeda painter to draw the annunciatiorr of the Virgin Mary ln

‘

fl eyi o ; ,but when only theVirgin

’s face was w anting tofin ith

the W ork, the attili was ex trem e] Lperplex ed how to give ita fu ltable perfeétion and Fallin

gcep under this difdu ietude

of m ind, w heh he aw aked he aw the caufe of his anx ietyrem oved, and the face com pletely fin ifhed. This afllfianceebu ld not be{uppol

’ed to com e fi'

om any bu t angels ; and fthmthe m u ltitude of m iracles daily perform ed by it , the Flor

-en

t ines w onder how a

id), one can doubt of theRory . Am ong

other th ings it is ia'

that they who lonk on this piétu rew ill never be troubled wi th fore or w eak eyes . Probablyanother artift played the lleep in painter a trick, which hed the m onks had the

‘

addrefs o§turning to their advanta e

or the w hole m ay ,have been a contrivanceof the painter h im

felf, in Order to‘

get a nam e by being on fu ch good terri l swiththe angels . It i s certa in this piece is fa r from being an an

gel ie w ork the invention indeed is 0d, the perfori anda ttitude of the angel proper and grace and the fa inting of

m y a t the figh t of the heavenly m ell'

en

gfr happily defign

etl’

bu t the pencil w a l k is none of the efi , and even the

.w onder—w orking face is .not to be com pared w ith forne h un

piétu res by h ands m erely hum an .

‘This piece is cov

‘

ered W ith three veils, and placed in a chapel With a mul titude of fi lver votive pieces ban in abou t it. h is ch apelis cu rioufl adorned W ith m arbfie om a defign ofMichelo

'

zzi, andyillum inated w ith above forty filver lam ps and

branches . Before the a ltar are two filver candlefiiclcs ofth e

He ight of am an, and on it are two largefi lver fiatues reprefén tino two Every part of the altar is coveredw ithba r-relief}, and the tabernacle or repofitory of the boil is extrem ely rich, w ith a head of Chrifi pa

‘

iri'

ted on it by Andre a

d el

Hofpital for

Eadie Fio

Cn u n e n s s and other religious Bu ildings

ma rkably lofty and beau tiful , and the l ibrary is w ell kept,a nd daily a ugm ented w ith books . The order of the fim ite,or fervants of the bleil

'

ed Vir°

n Mary ,’derives i ts origin

from Florence, it bein firil infilu ted by feven noblem en of

th is city , ofwhom S. ilippo Benizzo w as the chief, in thecar 1 2

On one fidé of the church of the annuncia tion is a large

hofpital , defigned chiefly for the fupport of foundlings , w ho

general ly am ount to nea r three thou fand it is under the m a

n agem en t of a governor, w hofe au thority al fo ex tends to fe

vera l other charitable founda tions .

In the center of the fquare, before th is ch urch , is a fine

bronze equeil rian il atu e of duke Ferdinand I . by G iovann iBologna , of w hofe {kill th e two brafs founta ins alfo in th is

fqua re are noble fpecim ens .

La Badia Fiorentina is a convent belonging to the Bene

diel ine m onks de Mon te Cailinen ii . The appellation Badia ,or Abbadia , belongs to it, a s the m oil ancient abbey in F10rence for the founders of it w ere the countefs W illa , and

h er bu lbandHugo, grandfa ther to Hugo king of Ita ly , w ho’

l ived in the year 990. The la tter has a fl am e in the convent ,e rected in 1 6 1 The epitaph which is to be feen in the

church , il iles im

UgoGri mm'

s I II . Impera torit qfinis a t Com es, MarcbioAndeburgerg/is Hetrurz

'

a'

que P refi fi us .

Cou nt Hugo, a near rela tion of th e em peror O tho III .m arqu is ofAnderbu rg and governor ofT ufcany .

’

He fou nded alfo fix other convents , and died in the y ea r

1 000. Severa l w riters , not righ tl u nderil anding th is ep i

taph , have m ade h im m argrave of randenbu rg bu t oth ers ,to ibew the m an ifeil erroneoufnefs of fuch a conjeél u re ,afi rm , tha t this infcription w as not in being till the yea r

1 48 1 , w hen itwas com pofed by the m onks , in order to adda grea ter dign ity to the deceafed, by il iling h im a grandfonof the em peror O tho IIL (i t . Here are alfo fevera l oth erm onum ents w orth feeing, as th a t ofBernardoG iugni, G ianozzo d

’Agnolo, Pandolfin i, and particu lar] ofcount Fan

toni, privy-counfellor to the grea t duke , an h is em bafl

‘

adorat

‘

feveral cou rts, w ho died in 1 725 . T he a fcenfion of th eVirgin Mary in th is church was pa inted by Vafari.

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Cu U a c H a s and Other religious Buildings

Travellers you here behold a grea t poet confinedfiw itli

in this m arble lhrine, to w hofe enius the univerfe itfel f

w a s not equa l . Charles perfectly ew and com prehended

whatever the earth produces , the heavens ex h ibit, or billo

ry relates ; (0 that he m ight be juflzly {tiled the glory of

h is‘

a e . Ye m u fes ofIta ly andGreece now m elt i n tears ,

and ew every fign of grief; the glory and ornam ent of

your celefiial choir is now , alas , no m ore

Lafi ly , I cannot om it inferring thei

follow ing epitaph of

the m a rqu is FrancefcoN icolino :

I

In m emo ofFrancei'

co Nicolino, eldeft (on of Johnm a rquis ofLam pella , envoy from Ferdin and II . grea t du keofT u fcany to pope Urban VIH. for th e {pace of tw en t

three yea rs a perfon who cou ld notbe (con or heard w i thou t reverence, fu erior both to ange r and diflim u lation .

He w a s difi in u iihed and“

adm ired,even a t Rom e , w h ere

the num ber olggreat m en a lm oft e x tingu ilh és adm ira tion

prudence , m agnanim ity , m ildnefs , and integrity [honeconfpicuou s in h im . A W ife m an is preferable to a brave

m an and he w ho overcom es h im felf, t o him w ho conqu ers

c ities . To the belt of fa thers , Phi lip N icolino, creéi ed

this monum en t in the year 1 664.

fi

‘

fi

fl

fi

fi

h

‘

fi

fi

fl

The tom bof the celebrated afl ronom er Ga l ileo, a Florentine, is in the nomina te chapel of the convent belonging to

thi s church. Th is convent has a good library, particularly

Fra ud/Eu: N icolinus ‘yo. F . Sen.

Campelkz Ma rcbz'

o

II . M D . Etrur .

’

ad Uzrbamzm

x it l l l u a r mos Ora tor ,a uditu f

u x ta v em rabilir,z'

, 53°Aza la te rte/rim ;

abz'

‘vix m agud em inent,

at F Lo k t n

ofm anufcrlpts , and is conflantl inhabited by above a bundred m onks . One of thefe fathers is alw ays at the head ofthe inqu ifition

and every-w here throughou t the great duke

’s

dom in ions the Francifcans h ave that w eight in the inquifrtionas cannot bu t be looked upon w ith an evil eye by the Dom inica ns , w ho in other countries h ave the fole m anagem ent

of tha t office .

The la rge fqu are before the church di 3. Croce, in carnival-tim e, is fu ll pf a ll forts of diverfions, pa rticu larly a kindof play a t ball or tenn is , at w h ich the young nobi lity are

fond of ibew ing their dex terity .

Th at part of the ci about 8 . Croce is alfo called Villa Yilla GMGibel l ina ; for the Gi ll ine party m ofi ly

’

retreated to th is h“

quarter in t roublefom e tim es .0

In the piazza before the church of S. Felice is a pil lar Church of

of Seravezza m arble, finely variegated, erected by the rea t

duke Cofm o I . in m em ory of a vréto ga ined nearMarciano. Som eg ood pa intings a re to be een in

-tbis church , ef

pecia lly a piece by Sa lvatore Rofa, ofChrilt holding out hishand to St. Peter l inking in the fea .

Before the c hu rch of St. Fel icita {lands a granate pilla r,St. Felicia .

w ith a fiatne of St . Peter the m artyr on the top of it. Thechu rch, belides

“feveral ood . pictures, is rem arkable for a

m ofa icy work by Alelfan o Barbadori.

On the piazza , or fqua re,’

before the chu rch of St, I /au Bafa di 3.

rence , {lands the Bafa di 3. Lorenzo, w h ich is a very large Lon a»

pedefl‘

al of wh ite m arble, on one fide ofw hich is theof the Medicis, and on the other a m ailerly piece in

reliev e, reprefenting captives and (polls, taken b John of

Med icis, fatherof the great duke Cofino I . The other two

fides have no fcnlptu res nor infcriptions . This is the workofBandinel l i, a s is alfo the fiatu e of John deMedicis, w h ich

is to {la nd u pon it ; bu t as it is not finiihed, it is fi il l keptin the Pa lazzoVecch io.

In the ga llery of the convent of St . Laurence is the m onum ent ofPau l us Jovius, w ith th is infcription

54 ,

C n u n c a s s and other religiou s Bu ildm gs

To Pau lu sJ oviu s, a native ofLomh dy[ and O

hiflloaofNocera , who fa ithfu ll y w rote the hi

eof h is own

tim e, h is defceridants , pru‘l

'

u ant toh is w ill , and w ith theraciou s perm iflion of the befl: of princes, Cofm o

and

rancis , grea t dukesrofTufcany, have rarefied th is m onum ent in the year 1 57

The m arble flam e of Jorins, on this m onument, is thew ork ofAntoniodi S . Gallo

Library of This convent owes thegreat it part ofms reputation to

fi‘

sffiztthe ex cellent m anu fcripts in 1ts ib

‘

r .

u m : Lorenzo de Medicis, who twice fent Jo n i afea risowtoGreece

for that pu rpol'

e and partly b pope Clem ent VII and the

great duke Cofinofin I . Theyeéva tion of the 11h , whicb

is ege bry brqccz

'

a, lon

g, and twenty en

.

from

gn OfMichac Angelo, and over the

w

entrance is this

infeription :

ia tém D D .

perfit im dém curaw’

t,

To God and the pa‘and to be the ornam ent

of h is

Medicc h is anccfi'm .

and h im felf.

Cofm o de Medicis, firit‘

pleted th is edifice on the r1 57o.

Mam i The m anu lbn pts 1n th is l ibrary are fa id to am ount to four

teen thou fand eight hundred : am ong there, how ever, are

fortyor fifty books printedbefore the fix teen th cen tury , whichon that account are looked upon as m anu fcripts . In th is

is the bible publifhed in 1 462 , in M0 volum es,

t

hy {ohn Fa u lt and th is edition has been fold

‘

to the curious'

or om e

i t F L O R E N C E .

The m afi curiOu s -m ufcript in th isfup fetl to havebeenwritten in the fifth

obferved by Mr, Addifon , whohas likewife m ade (om e ingesnions rem arks upon it.

Here is a m anufcript Homer,~w ith a gin/3 interlined, (aid

to be five hundred years-old ; bur l doubt whether two hun

tired m ay not fairly be deduéled 3 61e g’

a

b

fbein

'

w ri

TheodoreGaza , as appears from the 1 two (gr kofwh ich the fol low ing is an \

ex a& tranflation

The e loquent Theodore Gm , my dear friend, wm t'e

this Homer for m e Francis Ph ilelphus,’

Here are a lfo a Rasbm iea! comm ent on the 01d Ten;men t, and Very clea

rly writteninthe year 1 390 a Syriacof the pels of the feven’tli centu ry , but Ma

bison fays , that the“

character is'

that bf the ninth centu ryam ak ript ofTacitus of the eleventh, and Livy

’s hiftory,

tw enty-three volum es bu t thofe preces which

m ou r printed copies are not to be found in thism anufeript . As for Bem ardi Oria lla rr

'

i de 3111. [ta ller ComM a r ius, it w as printed in qu arto, by John Brindley atLondon, ih the yea r 17 2 4 ; bu t not fo correél ly as I

‘

cou ldfub

'

éét of th is W ork is the w a r ofCh arles VIII .

king a l li a nce 1 1: Ita ly . In the m anu fcript ofValtu rius d’e

reMilituri are fevera l defrgn s ; bu t part of‘

th'

is work has been

ubl iihed a s far as the letter to fu'itanMahofim et. Petrarch

’s

otters , «w he n by h is ow n hand, are alfo to he feen heretheft hu e been rin ted : l ikew ife Boccacio

’s novels , w ritten

1 3 4, is kept in thi s library'

Here is al fo a

Volum e, perha ps unparal leled in its kind, whichai operations of the ancients, fuéh as

Afc lep iades , we. illnfirated w ith it

115 4 m l.

at . F L O -RE N C'

E .r 1

fefi d the fad}; Upon this, Cofm o‘

adm oniihed h is fon tocal l upon God for m ercy ; adding, Th at he ought to ac

count it a happinefs tha t he w as going to lofe th at life, of

wh ich he was now becom e unworthy , by the h and of him ,

alon e from whom h e had at firfi received it.’At thefe

words he took the d from G arfias’s fide, w hich he h ad

m ade ufe of as the irfizxm t of his unna tural'

revenge, and

plu nged it~in his fan

’s hea rt, w ho fel l down clofo to the

dead body of his brother, and ex ire'

d. Th is happened in

1 562 , Ga rlias hein

ti lthen bitt 5 con yea rs of

few w ere privy to°

s m elancholy tranfaétion,

given ou t, that the two brothers w ere fuddenly taken OE bya contag ious difiem perw hich a t that tim e raged in FlorenoeoTo pu t a better glofs on this t ragica l event, they w ere bothburied in grea t pom p ; and Gad i ss was

.

honou red w ith a

publicfnnera l-ora tion , but w hether he'l ies in the fam e tom b

w ith h is brother I h ave not been inform ed. The du tchefiEleonora , m oth er of thefe tw o prince

'

s , a very e x cell entlady, w as R) a lfeéfed W ith the tragical dea th of her two

fons , tha t {he furvived them bu t a few days . Gofm o at thattim e had three other fans living.

52

In St . Laurence’3 church are two pulpits . fupported by. Two 5“m arble pilla rs , and adorned w ith five pieces in baffle-relieve; Pu lpit: of

by Dona tel lo : Thefe pu lp its are placed oppofi te to each bm w

Other:

Irm ho newvefiry of th is ch urch are ihew n the tom bs ofVeri fy ,

fom e . princes of the houfe ofMedicis ; of w h ich , it is fufii Fine fculp

cient to fl y , that they w ere done by Michae l Angelo. The W ‘

firlt of thefe m onum ents is .juft a t the entrance and perpe

tuate s the m emory d’

J u l ian deMedicis, duke ofNem ou rs,

and brother to pope-Leo the ten th , w here the fta tue ofN ight

rivals the finch:pieces'

of antiqu ity . The fecond m onument

is ofLorenzo dc Medicis one of th e dukes ofUrbino. The

flam e: of thefo two princes are fin iihed p ieces, w hich can

not be , fa id of three other fia tues here , fuppofed to

reprefent m orn ing, noon , and evening ; as , w ithou t beingprev ioufly acqu a inted w ith the fou lptor

’s

~defign , one wou ld

fearce dm ow w hat to m ake of them .

Beh ind the h igh a ltar ofS t . Lau rence’s church is the ene New bu rial

trance in to a chapel or bur ia l-place defigned for the great

dukes of Florence ,'

w hich has been begun ever hu co the yem'

ini ibiti1 604. .A t firfi thre e hundred perfons w ere da ily em ployed m m ,

in th is w ork, bu t this num ber ha s fince been reduced to fix ty ;though the Rated yearly fum ex pended in th is bu ilding is

eighteen

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60 Cn u a c n r. s and other religion!Bu ildings

in the'

year of our redem ption 1 494,~ando in the 33d year

ofh is age.

’

Hieronym o Ben iveni, that he m ight not after death hefepara ted from him , to whom , w hen living, he w as un ited

f by the clofeit friendih ip, ordered h is bones to be depofited in th is place. He died in 1 541 , aged 39 years andfix m onths .

’

Account or John Pico w as fuch a prodi

?of learning, that in th e

e

Politianus .

twenty-fourth ear of. h is age publicly m a intained a t

Rom e feveral r ej ér in loc ic, divin ity , m a them a tics, Rabbi

nica l learning, and ph 1c . By thefe ex ercifes indeed, h e

difpla ed his . profound know ledge and {kill in the Latin ,Gre and Hebrew langu ages ; bu t at

'

the fam e tim e drew

u‘

pon h im felf the envy and il l-w ill of h is cotem pora rie'

s . He

W as com m only called the Phoenix of th e fcience‘

s ; and Sca

l i‘

r, who w as not v‘

ery l iberal of h is encom ium s, li iles h imi on/im p :fine v itio. i . e.

’

A faultlefs prodigy .

’He died in

the year I on the 1 th ofNovem ber, the da y on w h ich

Charles V I . K'in of ra nce, m ade his ublic en into

F lorence . John rancis Pico w rote the l ife of th is 11 18 e x

c‘el lent uncle, w hich is accordin

lgly

~

prefix ed to h is w orks

printed here in 1 573, and at Ba l i in 1 6 1 0.

Angelus Politianu s l ies w ithou t any epitaph but one of

his friends com pofed a pu nning difi ich on his (kill in the langu es , w h ich is not w orth tranfcribing.

e w as born at Monte Pu lciano on the 1 4th of Ju ly ,1454, a nd died the 24th of Septem ber, 1 494. How ev er

writers m ay difi'

er concerning the year of his death , Petru sCrin itu s (dc honey}. difi ipl . l . x v . c . ex prefly fays, th a t

the three lea rned m en , nam ely ,tIohn icoMirandola

,Her

m olau s Barbaru s , and Angelu s ol itianus, died in thé'

fam e

yea r th at Charles VIII . m ade h is ex pedition in to Italy ,w h ich w as in 1 494} and this com pu tation agreese itaph .pT ha t Politianus w as a m an of learn ing m ufi be confefl

'

ed

bu t his courfe of l ife w as l ittle agreeable to th at ch aracter .

H is

For thol'

e tim es h is learning w as certainly very a but his (ki l lin the Greek lan

guage w as fu ch , that Dem etrius

‘

Ch condy las , a na tiv eof Greece, w ho ad been in hi

gh efieem for his know ledge in Grecia n

litera ture, w as fo riva led by P0 itianus, that all his fcholars going bv er

to the latter, he left Florence in defpa ir. Politianu s cam e into techvogue, tha t as he was ex pla ining Cam l lus, the audience unanim ou fl y

cried

“D

at F LO R E N C E ' 6:

St. Antoni

fcripts of his w riting.

In the m iddle court of the Dom inican convent near th is Convent.

church , {l ands a w h ite m arble fia tne of St. Dom inico, wholelife is pa inted infrefio on the cloyfier

-w a lls . Som e of the

m onks cel ls are hung w ith good,pictures ; and in tha t whichform erly St. Antoninus inh abited, are fevera l pieces by G iovanni Angelo, who at h is defire painted the annunciation of

the Virgin Ma ry in fi'

J ca , under which are thefe

“lateVirgi l , a “

In a ruinous chapel near th is convent were feveral old

pain tings in frgfio, w hich together w ith the

brought h ither to fecure them from the w eather, to wh ichd? w ere before ex pofed. Here al fo is lhewn the portrait

of

e

li ieronim o Savonarola, a m onk of th is conven t, who to

wards the clofe of the fifteenth century lived firfi at Florence

in high v eneration for fu til ity of life, and ufed frequently to

inveigh h it the corruptions of the pope and the Rom iihclergy . u t, at length, he fel l under the power of h is enem ies , and in the ye ar a fter being iii

-fl: put to the

ture, he w as hanged, and then bu rned to a lhes . The Francifcans , in th is afl’a ir, fufliciently fignalized their rancour

againlt, th e Dom inicans, am ong w hom Savonarola wa s h ighlyreverence d. Severa l p rotefiants a lfo looked upon h im as a

the reform a tion and the French efieem h im as

perron , enduedw ith a propheticfpirit, by w hole

gave their king Charles IVIII. feveral adm oni

cried out, This angel m u ll certa inly have com e from heaven .

’ His ge

aius for poetry em inent

lyappeared in that m a iler-piecé

'of his tom pofi

tions on a tou rnam ent 0 uhan de Medicis . The beau ty of his La tinffile, even E rafm u s h im fel w ho otherw ife had h is th an of {Elf-conce it,acknow ledges . Politianu s

’s perfon w as not very graceful , and

,his incli

nations w ere v irions . His principles, a s to religion, w ere loofe and un

kil l. m ore infam ous , having conceived an nu

natura l pafl ion for one of his fcholars , w hich brought on him

which he died in a, raging del irium . See Bay le’s dictionary .

Story Of a

Difpenfary .

C n u n 0 i i r. s and'

ofi er religiou s Bu ildingstib

'

nl'

eoncerningth is kingdom and the w ar in Itd y . To

others h is predi ions appear very am bi us ; and even h is

greatefi:adm irers cannot bu t own tha t e interfered in pol itics m ore than becom e an ecclelialh

'

c This would not

h ave [le

gisl

at e a cr

ime in him b the fi e of

Rom e, t qnie on’

h is popu lan'

had he not both in h is flam m a d a

t

ienotorious am ong the clergy , from th e

W h o the low ell'. As his arm !wou ld not perm it him to

be filent, m uch let'

s to fla tter their vices ; it is not fl a nge ,that acconding to their cufiom they lhou ld proceed againfih im as an irreelaim able firm er, who was neither to be foriven in th is w orld or the nex t . Alex anderN a tal is , a lea rned

renchm an , in the ci part of his church bilia ry hav ingendeavou red to clear avona rola and denionfira te his innocence, bellow ed ea t preifes on h im ; but his billory on th is

a ccount w as ed in th e index

lo e of proh ibited books , a t Rom e.

n the cham ber w hich form erly belonged to Savonarol ais a line head ofChrfl ex p iri byMichael Ange lo ; wh ichthe fathers (aid “ painted om a dyingm an, w hom th eartifi: him felf had ' barbam u fly cruc ified, that he m i t be

better able to ex pm fi the agonies of a perfon ex pirin-m th a t

torture : but the whole flory'has very m uch th e airo a fable ,

though it is current. at Rom and Naples , and related?offoam

other pictures of the fa m e kind. In m y‘

opinion the Floxantine piece is [0 fa r better ex ecu ted, and m ore agreeableto~nat1ure, as the head inclines on one nde wh ereas in th e

pictures at Rom e and Naples, it is fi i l’and upri t.

They ll ill (how have the three cells in w h ich m o, fu rnam ed the father of his country , ufed frequently to reti refa n the m ore abflraéted enjoym ent. of the oonvenfa tion of‘ th e

piou s m onks , and h is priva te devotion.

The difpenfary of th is m nvent. is fam ous for the goodne foof the

“

m edicines , offences , and chym iea l prepa rat ions, (0tha t travel lers an d othe rs m ay be (a re of

'being here fupplieéw ith the belt of drugs , and at a reafonable rate .

A full account of th is rem arkable pet-fen is to be found in Boy l e

‘

s

dia

m. John Fra ncis Pico, th e celebrated count ofNfi randola , h a s

hon him w ith an apology , w hich W olfius ha s inferred in hism ar . « at . 1 6 . It is probable that his dying by the halter w as occa .

{zoned by his infilting, that a m onk, w ith the W in hi s hand ,lhou ld w a lk before him through the fire ; bu t this was not to be allow ed ,h it the h a lt lhould have fluttere d by the flam es, which would have giv ena terrible blow to the capital odofi rm e 05 the Roll i ng cla s h

64

St. Mar’

a

C n u a c a t s and other religiou s Bu ildingstheir order, is not:om itted.

' The pica reprefentm g'

«Mary°

Magda lene, as a penitent defirous ofre ceiving the fam m en t,

is by, Pugliani. W i th regard in the nam e of this devou t

wom an, I here conform m yfelf tothe com m on cu llom , as I{ha ll in other places where lh e ocm rs though the r e alnam e of that wom an , who, according to St. Luke.{ch ap .

y iii.] w as reclaim ed from her 910mm , be very u ncer

ta in. Mary Magda len, Mary the Ma rtha, and the

m onim ou s profi itute, a re genera lly confounded r ,

though, a ll circum fi ances confidered, it ris h ighly p robabl e,that the w ere three difi

'

crent . perfons . Howc r, one of

the hire pieces, reprefenting the penitent profi itute , w ho

ever [he w as; is that of the fam ous Le Brun at Pa ris, in the

of the Ca rm elite nuns in the fau x bourg S . Jaqu es .

1 8 another , bu t of a fm a l ler fizz, by Foully, in th e

fine col lection ofMr. deLicht a t Antwerp, who looks u ponit to be a lm ofl inva luable bu t the fplendor and gairy of

every part of her drefs appears to m e not a little out of ch a

racter, as (he is a pen itent.

StMaria Nuova, befides fom e pa intings , has a m olt

fuperb a ltar of Carra ra m arble . he large hofpita l conti

guous to it, w hich is divided into~two parts for the difl'

eren t

fcx es , w ell deferve'

s a travel lers notice. The fem a le patients are vifited by the Benedifl ine nuns, w hofe convent isin the nex t fireet, through a fubterraneous pafls

e. Th echurch {l ands betw ix t th e two w ings of the hofpi Eve rypa tien t ha s a bed, though they now am ount to feven h u ndred, ex clufive of the fevcral ofi cers and attendants . T h enum ber of patients afl

’ord the fur a fine opportun i of

im proving them felves in their pro efi cn ; to w hich end e re

is alfo a fpa ciou s thea tre for dill'

e&ions, adorned w ith a fin eCupola . The difpenfary takes up three chambers , where th e

m edicines a re kept in China pots . Here is a lfo a w e l lchofen libra ry of books relating to yfic and furgery , a nda botan ica l garden ; however, th is ofpita l, as to the bui lding, doth .not com e u p to tha t of.Turin . Beh ind the clo ifier belonging to

-ir, is the burial qplace where the dead a re

depofited in arched va ul ts, w h ich , as foon as they are fu l l,

are w al led up . i

The church of 8 . Ma ria Novella is to be difiingu ifh edfrom the foregoing . It abounds in fine pa intings , San tadi T ito, Girolam oMaccietti, Battifia N a ldin i, Al ndno ,

and Angelo Bronzino, . Vafari, Ur. The choir is by (Hi l l'

landap , Whole furm m e {om e derive from a kind of garlan d ,

“ F L O R E N C Eor w reath of flow ers invented b h im when he was a goldfru ith , others from h is inim ita le m anner of pa inting garlands and flow ers ; and thefe rogngflrina am on the painter!of th a t e w ere not uncom m on ; Thus t e Florentine

painter, aolo Uccello, w ho w as the lit-li noted for ex aét‘

nefs in perfpeétive, 69'

s . got that n

pa in ting bl tdS .Q

.

in the Gondx chapel , w ith in the church of St. MariaNovell a , is a wooden crucifix

t

i

l?Fil ippo di Set Brunellefco,

‘

which is m uch adm ired.

‘ Qn e wa ll ofthe‘

po'

rtico, beforethe church , is this infc npuon

J uno a

Sacred to ourblell'

ed‘

Saviour, whoa rofe from the dea'

d.‘

Alas , poor m ortal s, how fl mrt the dura tion of all fubin

na ry things ! The fam ily of the Biondi had form erlyfounded them felves a vault in the churché

y ard, oppoliteto the entrance of this church , bu t all-dc cu ring tim ehasdefi royed it . Sim on and Rolando, bro ers to Peter deBiondi, icnioved the bodies hither .in the ea

chrifi ian e ra , 1 663. Pa lfenger be ferions, eeting tim e

irrevocably flies , and wh ile you feel: to begu ile it, you defceiv

'

e yburfelf {h ive toobtain a blell'

ed im m ortal ity , an

lay u p i n the inmoit recefl'

es of thy heart that dreadful

pleafing word E'

raa uw v .

’

Pyram ids .

Orfam m io

f:a u a o n e s and other rel igious Bu ildingsOn the w alll a t

“

th e c loil ‘

ers belonging to th is ch u rch , are

‘fw eral 61d p lél ii res , m an) w ere ‘

parrrted before the inven

tion ofoil-colours . O ne of th em reprefenting the ’fal l ofo ur fidii parents , e x hibits the ferpen

'

t th at tem pted EVE,

'On oanother‘fide ofthe c loiil'er of St .

~Ma ria Novel la , th el ives ofSt. Dom inic, St Antoninu s , St. Catherine ofSienna ,andoth er celebrated perfons of the Dom inican order, a re

p ainted in fi re/20, by San ta di Tito,‘Pp ccetti, and Other

neat m a i lers . Before the convent‘is a l arge fineff u are ,

m w hich are two porphyry pyram ids , w ith their pegd hfl stell ing on four bronze tortoifes .

St. Michele Berte‘

ldi is a'fine church belon

Theatines , w ith the fol low ing words on i ts

Dec a fh gdaram pri nq'

pt'

.

Sacred toGod and th e‘Prince of angels.

’

All the chapels of th is chu rch a re‘lined

‘w ith m a rble, a nd

em bell ifhed ~w ith very

"fine paintings . At t he high a lta r

fi ands a brafs fi a tue of our Saviou r, I

?! Francefco Sufin i .

Fourteen other fi aiues of m arble in eyera l parts of th e

church , w ith cha r-r elief} on th eir reprefent th e

tw'

elvea poftles and two m odem d'

aints . Th e convent libra ryis a l lb l arge , and

‘h as a “val u able col lection ofbooks .

The fa thers ofth e oratory ofS t . ‘I’hi l ipN eri h ave al fo a

pretty church ; bu t‘ it is particu larly rem arkable for its ex

gu ifite m arble fcu lptures , by AntonioMontau ti and ,

Giagacch ino Fortini . W hen thi s i arge church is fin

'

dhed, i t is tp‘

be u fed as a h -

oratory hy the fathers .

The c hu rch ‘

of'Orfam m ichele, is corruptly‘

ih'

cal led fi bmS t. Mich ael Lin 5011 0, or .Of the

c ity granaries‘

having form erly h ood in t his“

Itso utfide ' is ornam ented w ith fourteen “fl am es

‘

ih‘

i s‘

mgzem arble byLorenzo

'Ghiberti, Baccio d aMontelu‘

Dona"hel lo, Ance Nanni, Andrea Verm eh io

vand (

“

i i vanniZ

BQa . Them arble Ratue of

‘

St .G ea r w h ich‘

i'

s not an‘éhuefi rian one , by Donatello, and an her of St. Luke inli m e, by

‘Bologna , a re adm ired by connoifl'

eurs‘

beyond thet ell . The infide of th is church alfoabounds w ith

'

ovnam ents ,

butw ants l ight ; the w indows being finall, and, accordingrethe falhion of form er tim es, painted.

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68 CHUn cHn s and Other religiou s Bu ildings

In the church of St. Pietro Ma

ggiore are fom e fine p ieces

offeu lptu re and painting ; particu a rl the adora tion of the

Magi, by Cigol i, otherw ife ca lled ivol i. There

over the vefi r -door a piece on the fam e fubjeél , by Paliignano, and it is yet undecided am ong the connoill

'

eurs which

deferve s the preference .

I cannot forbear iaking notice here of the grofs o

th e cm , of com m itted by pa inters aga inft hifiorica l probabil ity , in their

pieces of the Magi or w ife m en com ing to Beth lehem . Not

to m ention their ounw arrantable lim ita tion of their num ber to

three , noth ing can be m ore ridiculou s than to pu t crowns

upon their heads , and to ive the com plex ion of a negro to

one of them . They are a {o frequ en tly reprefented by thefe

endem en pay ing their adorations to the infant Jefu s in a

sable , w ith an ox and an afs in one corner, though the w hole

tradition of thofe anim al s being prefent a t the birth ofChriil ,fprings from an erroneous and abfu rd interpretation, or ra

ther m ifappl ica tion of the th ird veric of th e firlt chapter of

Ifa iah . It is not a t a l l credible, that the w ife m en found

and Mary w ith the ch ild in a liable, efpecial ly as the

G reek w ord 8m m , u fed by St. Ma tthew , chap. ii. v . 4. does

not u fu a lly im port a li able , bu t-a dw ell ing

-ha nk . All the

circum fiances l ikew ife ibew , t hat the tim e of this tranfafi ion

w as not im m ediately after the birth ofChrilt, and on Jofeph

’s journey tow a rds Jeru fa lem , bu t upon their return as

they w ere pafiing th rough Beth lehem , w hen probabl the

inn w as not (0 crow ded . Th a t Ma ry pun€tu a lly o erved

th e th ir ty-three days retirem en t du rin her pu rification , ac

cording to the law oi Mofes, is unqu e ionable ; for the fcripture fays , tha t w hen the days her pu rification w ere

‘

ac

com plilhed,’{he cam e to Jerufa lem w ith the ufu al ofi

‘

erin

Bu t tha t the eafi ern Magi cam e to Beth lehem before th is, is

not at al l probable th eir converfation w ith Herod havingm oved the w hol e city of Jerufalem , and pu t him upon the

cru el and bloody refolution of taking ofl'

Jefu s a t any rate ;in th is fitua tion h is parents wou ld, a s it w ere, have thrown

h im into the l ion’s m ou th , — thou h w arned in a vifion to

prov ide for the fafety of a fpeedy ight. Befides, after Herod

’s defigns W ere known , Sim eon and Hannah w ould h a rdly

h ave ven tu red to talk openly of h im as the Saviour of the

world, and even in the tem ple of Jeru falem , w hich a lm ofi

ride Laur . Ba u d .

‘Tf‘ibt l . in Dr] :deM is o 3: m in temple re

frcfm tm W nkntibw . 1m . 1 7 1 5

”8 PI

at'

F L O R E'

N C E. 69

joim d to the ca il le of Anton ia, where Herod yefided. Thedifpatch enjoined by the angel, w ill not a llow us to th ink

that they took another jou rney to Jen rfalem before that

flighl

t, by w hich the child Jeth s w as tobe faved from Herod’s

true

In? fm all court of the Oratorio dello Scalzo, is the life i“.

ofJohn the Baptifi in fevera l pieces infref m, by Andrea del “hm ?Sarto. Thefe pa intings are not a l i ttle b the

weather, fi t . bu t ii ill continue to be h'

y adm ired by all

connoifli mrs efpecia lly that piece of ohn baptizing the

m ultitude w h ich reforted to him .

Spirito Santo and S . Spirito are two different ch urches ,form er is (m al l, and oni rem arkable for its {lone-w ork and

t”

altar-piece by Antonio liom eniw Gabbian i ; bu t the latter,befides a grea t m any noble pa intings , fiatues,has a fuperb a ltar of inla idwork of gem s and

ble. It w a s bu il t by the Michelozzi fam ily, at the ex pence

ofa hundred thoufand j iudiThe lovers of painting and {bu lpture w ill be agreeably

3 Trinid o

entertained in the church of S. Trinita. On the two fideeofthe high a ltar a re the following rem arkable infcriptionsunder two p iél ures

I .Novum ortitudinis ex em fa r

70H/IN ES GUALBE TUSVifi or iam rom a n: qud v im a t incm m n

inor j ibipa ram tru mp o:

In m um

Behold a new pattern of courage in John Gualberti,who decl in ing a viéto over a feeble unarm ed foe, a ttacks

his equa l , n am ely h i elf, w hom he conquers b pa rdon inghis fupp l ian t enem y , and thu s acqu ires a dou lo triumphby his clem ency, and viétory over h im felf.

’

About Ru ling,

5 3

a F L O -R E N C'E . 2:N ex t to the duke

’s pd ace is that of the Riccardi, Ma mi e

wh ich is al fo ca lled Pa lazza de’Medici, beca c it Ru m "

belonged to the duca l fam il It was bui lt from a

Miche lozzo, by the elder a fm o deMedicis, w ho, thoughhe w as never great duke , w as .even after his dem ife honouredby hi s countrym en w ith the m ore am iable title ofpaterpan ic ,

or fa th er of h is country .~On one Me of it is a very broad

firee t, a lon w h ich is a priv a te paffage to the pa lace of Lorenzo de hiedicis , w here Al ex ander doMedicis, th e firltduke of Florence, refided. Th is pa ils e w a s contrived for

the privacy of h is abandoned voluptuougiefs, w hich his tre acherou s brother Lorenzo fom ented by al l m eans poflible, till

at lafl he h ad h im a lialhnated in a cham ber con tiguou s to“W e? “

thi W h a t further rela tes to the Riccardi pa lace is“a n d“

let the fol low ing infcription , by the Abbé Sa lvini,to be feen on w h ite m arble in th e firfi:court :

rrima r, paleberr im a : atone m ag»

Medice P a tre P a tr ice Miebelotio 1 1r

biteirzm t . Hie

pla ni: liber i que4: reg iam aFa

nuptia: celebra 'vit, Reg iam j l irpem fi lieiter bodie regaa ntem fundd s/it, w r ii: tempor ibu:Rom a ni Pontifica , Rom ani Impera tores ,Roger, Regim e, a liiquePr incipe: im zum er iaue P roeere: bepitiaex cepti . Leo IX. P . M . in itu Bonom

'

a m redituqae, Ca ro 14:V.

Imp. eu i Ora tore: Tua eta'

ni Reg i: biejolea ne tr ibu tam j bl‘uerunt,Carola :VI II . Ga lliarum Rex , Cba r lorta Cypr iRegina , {if Sa r

m atiee Reg ina , Thom a:Reg i:f lia , Fr ia’ericu: P r ineep: Sa lerni ,

a di Reg i: Neapolita ni ES’Ma r ia H ippolyta :Du x Ca labric ,

Ga lea tiu:Ma r ia Sfortia M diola ni D ux . [fie literee La tinas

Gm an qu e refl azera tc , m al ts: a t e: ex ert/tee , P la toniea Pbilofipbia refl itu ta , fleadem ia Florentina a Cofm o I . v erna cu lar Eire/Zoe lingw e cu ltu i j acra ta , Semper bic pa riere: eolum na qa e

en ieb’

ti: v ocibu: r onueruu t. fi zzle: bafl'

e ta ntra g loria v ia ea

pace:, Gabr iel Cbza adi ES’Riva ltiMarebio, Sena tor i:Frand/i i

ta: ia pg/l iea a u x it pa r te. Fram ifimi: 2 Gabr ielz} [upradifi i ex fra tre Nep. C‘l w tzyi a m

sodium m agnificentiam e m u/a i m , illa : fa cello.fa rris reliam r:

F 4. r efl rto,

a

u

'

h

~lu

fl

a

0

0

c

c

c

c

c

c

c

e

c

k

c

c

c

c

c

t

6

t

i

c

'

Private P a n a c a s , are .

fi lia l : tor P rincipe: v ir i ,arde: om ni: eruditiou i:, qu a: bre

erudite lu a u . inj igne:, a ntiquzta m

Stranger,H I S us , elegant,

‘

a nd m agnificent palace ,w h ich you behold, w as bu ilt by Cofm o de

-Medié

cis , the fa ther of h is country, the judiciou s Michelozzibeing the arch itedt, in

'

the year a nd h as been the

refidence of th atgrea t a nd venerable old’

thanand h is fuc;

ccfi’

ors , the ch iefs in the Floren tine com m onw ea lth , as

a lfo of A lex ander, duke of Florence , and of Peter de

Medicis , th ird (on of Cofm o I . Here Cofm o de Mdicis , being by the free and unan im ous fuffrages of the fee

na te , nom inated duke ofFlorence, held his court for five

Here th e prifoners taken a t the glorious battle of

te-Mu rli w ere brought before h im . Here alfo h e cc

lebrated h is n uptia ls , and gave its origin to the duca l fa

m ily, the prefen t fovereigns of th is country, and hofpita

bly en terta ined fevera l popes , em perors , kings and qu eens ,w ith pr inces and nobles in vaft num bers . Am ong th afa

w ere pOpe Leo IX. of blefi'

ed m em ory , in h is journe to,

and retu rn from Bonon ia ; the em peror Cha rles tow hom envoys from the king of T un is here folem nly pa id

tribu te ; Ch a rles VIII . king of France , Cha rlotta qu eenof Cypru s , th e qu een of Poland, daugh ter to king Tho

m a s Frederic p rince of Sa lerno ; Ma ria Hippol ito, duke'

oi Ca la’

bria , (on to Ferdinand king p f N aples , a nd G a

leazzo Nl arla Sforza duke of hi ilan . Herew ere refl oredthe La tin

'

andGreek l angufiges , a rts and fc iences im proved,the Pla ton ic philofophy rev ived, and the Florentine aca}dem y for the im provem en t of the T u fcan langu age founded

by (30m l . The w al ls and pilla rs have alw ays ech'

oe’

d

w ith the voice of know ledge and lea rn ing . T h is edificefo celebra ted and fu ll of glory , being pu rcha fed from Fe rdinand II . grea t duke of Tu fca ny , b G abriel Ch iann

‘

i,m a rqu is di

°

va lti, fon of the fena tor Iii'ancis Ricca rdi, in ‘

the year 1 65 8, w a s by h im ehlarged in the“

back part .

9 The

a t F L 0 R E N C E .

l The m arqu is Francis , heir of the m a rqu is Cofm o, a de

{cendant of the above-m entioned Gabriel, em ulatin the

form er fplendor of this palace, very m uch enlar It, in

the year ripe , w ith a chapel full of reliques, a ibrary , a

curious in cum , w ith ll am a , ba r-religfi , pic

tures, and m eda ls . In the year 1 70 1 , he an

cient part .even w ith l'

upenor grandeur , and added, and

{till continu es to add, new ornam ents to this noble palace.

Stran r,

Grateful]e

revere th is ltruéture, form erly the ace of

theMedicis , the relidence not onl of [0 m any i lu ltrious

perfoiiages , bu t ofw ildom itfelf e nurfery of a ll kind ofliterature, wh ich here revived, and now the repoli tory ofan ineltimable treafirre of rare and curious pieces of anti

quiry, a nd the e legancies of la ter ages .’

73

The prefent m a rqu is Riccardi, w ith an yearly incom e ofRem arks

50,oooj indi fpares no coil to increafe the m agnificenceand ornam en ts of the palace . Accordingly , the groundfloor is full of all kinds of antiqu es , am ong w hich is a verylarge white and red m arble bafon, cut ou t of one block.

The and fl air-cafe w as built and ornam ented b ‘Giov .

Bat. oggini, an em inent fculptor and a rchiteét of F orence .

In the fecon d floor is‘

a gallery , w here am idlt the paintingsby Giordano , a Neapolitan, the varie t

yand dif

polition of

the gem s , th e large cryll al lultres and ooking-g allies, and

the richnéfs of every part of the furniture, one is perfectlyloll in adm ira tion . The library , w ith the gallery leadingtoit, m akes a grand appearance . Seven cham bers, on ex

traordinary occalions , are hung w ith crim fon velvet, fringedwith gold, w hich is a lw ays kept in readinefs .

palace.

The nex t to th is in m agnihcence is the m arqu isCorlini’s Corfini pa

palace, not fa r from the Ponte di S. T riniti , w h ich is particularly rem a rkable for its bea utifu l a rch itectu re, a grand lta ircafe

, and a h a ll forty bra ccia 1 long, and tw enty-live broad,

adorned w ith m arble fcu lptu res both ancient and m odem .

The cieling of th is ha ll w as painted by Dom en ico (3abThe palace of the duke di Sa lvia ti is a l fo an elegant build Salviati

palace.lpg, and in it is tobe feen the fol lowing infeription :

Abou t fierling . 1 Near 80 feet.

lace.

24 Private P a n a c e a, Gee.

In th is pal at e, where h is m other relided, Cofm o pafl'

edinfancy and childhood, w ho now in h is riper

years fufia ins the w eight of the ducal diadem w ith great

firm nefs . To Cofm o duke ofTufeany , the reatefi and5 belt of princes, grea t

-gm idfather to the i llu rious duke

Ferdinand now reign ing, Jam es Salviati, duke of j ul iani,erected th is m onu m en t in the ye ar

a n ” ; (a The Strozzi fam ily is very num erous , and the heads of itsfevera l branches are in polfeflion of m olt of the titles and dignities annex ed to the noblell

'

e . They have feveral good pa

laces in thi s city , but that near the duke of Sa lviati’s is rec.

koned the m oltm agn ificent .The front of the Uguccioni pa lace, in the great l

'

qua re or

m arket-place, near the Pa lazzo Vecchio, is m u ch adm ired,be ing bu ilt frém a def n ofMichael Angelo. In one of the

apartm ents of th is p ace is a fine piece , reprefenti'

hg the

of the Ifrael ites through the Red-fea , by Perino del

and a fine m arble bufio of the great duke Fran

It is needlefs for a traveller, who intends to m ake the tourof Ita ly , to am ufe h im felf w ith a ny m ore priva te bu ildings

h ere . The appearance of th is city fufl’

ers confiderably from

the grea t num ber of paper w indow s to be feen in Florence ;but as for fia tues , pldiures , and publ ic m onum ents , there

.are few . cities that equ a l it ; of thel

'

e I have al ready m ade

fom e m ention, but m an m ore m ay be added, parqcu la rl

the vafi Doric colum n 0 one piece of granate, w h ich {tan 8

befom the‘

church of St. Trinita, and ferves for a pede ll a l to

Su m ofa porphyry fi atue of Jufi ice, w ith her halance, and a royalm antle of bronze, by Rom olo del Dadda . Th is fia tue w as

e rected in 1 564, by,Cofm o the fGrea t, on account, as (om e

im agine , of h is having in th is place received advice of theA utism? furrender of Sienna

,and the granate pillar is laid tog

a ve

Gen

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Private P A L A c E 5 , Sec.

ra ined them felves abbve two h undred ye ars . Cofm o dcMe

dicis, w ho died in the y ear 1 465, h ad w arehoufes in the

principa l trading cities throughou t the world, and m et with

fuch pecu liar‘

good fortune, that in a cou rfe offifty-four years

he m et w ith no confiderable lofl‘

es from th e fa ilure‘

of other

m erchants . On the ex change is the follow ing infeription :

in ar e civ ibur fa ir erg/h‘

ux it

DXLVIII .

Cofm o II. duke of Florence, built th is open portico,fu pported by colum ns , runn ing in tranfverfe lines, as a

m ark of h is public m unificence,’

and for the benefit and

conven iency‘

of the m erchants , h is fellow -c itizens, who

m eet here to tranfaélzbufinefs , in the year I

Here is alfo a bronze w ild boar, call by Pietro Tacca,from the m odel of the antique one of m arble in the great

duke’s gal lery .

The ci ofFlorence contains feventeen fquares , or m are/v4.1

kets , and i s adorned w ith (even fountains , fix colum ns, two

pyram ids , and an h u ndred and fix ty publ ic fl am es .

A pa rticu lar part of the city , noted for hou fes of ill-fam e,w as afl igned by Colino I . to th e Jew s , ‘

for their pa rticular

na tter, or gbetta ; and an infeription at‘

the en trance of this

eet obferves , tha t it w a s though t m ore advifeable to perm it

the Jew s to rem a in in the neighbou rhood ofChr iltians, that,by their good ex am ple, they m ight be brou ht to the ea ly

yoke ofChrift, than total ly to ex 1 them . he reafon here

a ll igned is fo ju il and com m en able , that i t deferves to be

adopted in other pa rts , w ith regard to a ll fetftaries ; thoughit be little likely to h ave any confiderable effefi , till the cila

bl iih ed church fet a better ex anm le .

The river Arno divides the city of Florence into tw o une

qual parts , betw een w h ich there is a com m unication by four

ltone bridges ; the firit, according to the courfe of the river,is i] Ponte al lh Carraia the fecond, i] Ponte di S . T rinita

the th ird, il Ponte Vecch io and the fourth , ii Ponte a lleGrazie. That of S. Trin ita is the m olt beau tifu l , and is

abou t a hundred paces from the above-m entioned {3

31

tof

u ice :

Great

ta lkers.

Private P A r. A ( a s , are.

4'

s infatuated

Their fau lts.m W e“‘f“

charge ; bu t they are, even to a prove rb, addicted to t h a tand unnatura l v ice w hich brought down the div ine

wen once on Sodom and Gom orrah 4 Thus, it is not a t

an e, tha t w ith fuch l

lafcivious inclinations, th e F lu{ M 605 8 (bould not ha ve the belt eye s im m oderate and fi g .

qu ent afi s of venery be ing very pern icious to the light a nd

a t Hall in Saxony, abou t

w ofl iutte in Ip fi fez/iv C‘f

learg iag fl ow l iv ing a t Florence, a fuficient a ocount m ay be feen in the literary Journals ,andother abfirafi s

of the lmrn ed a nd curiou s books publiflaed by the Italians . A:m veller of ta lte m ull not om it paying a vifitm the fam ou s

M u rat Fogini, where he w il l not only Ice m ol i’

hea u tifu lm pies ofantiques, but fume ex cellent pieces of his own ia

ventien, e fpecial ly as a lover of fculprtp'e m ay th ere have a p

zopporte

t

an ity ofp urchafirg {ome choice pieces without beingupon .

of The country about Florence is a m oft-de fuetaeflim'

r0f little hills, al l well p lanted andcu ltiva wi th vari ety oftrees , Ur. and as you approach Pifa, itfi

ret'

tfelf 0

.nu ex tenfive tplaim There is a “mi d st te m arble .

-n ear Florence, W ith Mike l late ; and (when it ism 3:0

-.ir very beautiful lyr eprefents trees , landfcapes, and ruiqs , of

‘

3 yellow .or brow n colou r. Moll:of.this e is Di g ” !lycaufed by a corroi iye flu id which infinu at

l

e

l

ilu

igtf through th e

dim e pores and interfi ices of the {slowl y the traces ofwh i ch

ian foldiers fent '

to

at F L O R E N C E.

form M 4various m on th s , which, w ith the m amof im a gination , teem to bear [om e refem blanoe to the worksof na ture and a rt. Th eft:figu res in lthe Florentine m ed i care not barely p ainted by na ture upon t he (ori fice , but -areoften ‘fpund to have M ounted a fix th or fcm reh part of aninch in

‘

to the -fim e ; (0 that they m na t fu léea to be e afilyoblitera ted by fire , l ike th e Dendrites found at Pappenheim ,

and

flower p la ces .

Seve curious petrifications are dug up in the neiglflam Pu rifica

hood of Florenc'

e , fuck as the Turéinim Iongrfi m i fifcidfi ,other genufeo.which are ni t

a Ch a lcedonyof a {swe ll M ,

’bought at Paris , whichblee an Echim u s Spatagus

“a

In order to take a v iew ofthe above-m entioned rem arkable

W a ffl e c ity ofFlorence, according to the prox im ity d‘

theirTi tu a tion , (w h ich is genera lly the m oft cothod) the follow ing ‘

l ifi m ay (em :for a gu ide

1 . S. M aria del Here, or the r3. 8 . Croce.

cathedra l . 1 6. L’Oratorio di S. Filippp

e . i]Cm pai ilc.

3. ii Ba ttif’terio

,di S.G iov . 1

g. La d ia Fiorentina.

Ba ttifia . 1 il Pa lazzo del Duca di

4. ii Pa lazza del March . di Sal v iati.

Ricw di . 1 9 . S. Pietro

20. S. Maria

d el lo Scaleo.

22 , La Bafa di ‘S. Lorenzo8.

‘23. 8 . Maria Novella .

9. j ] Se ragl io de’Ijj ioni . 24. La Chie'l

'

a

to. inS tatu a fii ‘Ferdr L a l la 2 5 .

'ie alazzo

2 6. ii P alazza dc’Strozzi .

1 1 . Lo Gpeddle degli lnno

1 2. la Chiefa dell’Annun

29 .

sla"l"‘

abrica degli Ufiiz'

ii.

1 3.*8 .

~Ma ria Maddalena -de’30.

‘la Gal leria D uctile.

Pazzi. 31 i a Fonderia .

a » s.A nibiqfio.

Q

See Sir Francis Bacon‘

s Obl'

cr. Phyf. m .

Countrybetw ix t Flo rence. The road i s every

-where paved, and runs 21

cha in of h ills ; the country , though not (0 fertile as thatrence and

From F LO R E N C E td S I E NNA£

La Sta tua di Cofm o I .

il 'Pa lazzo 1 .

la Chiefa

ii Ghetto.

S. Michele Berteldi.il Gruppo del Centauro

8 . MariaMaggioreii Merm to nuovo.

il Ponte vecchio.

L E T T E R XLV.

Jou rney from F lorence to Sienna, with fam e Account of this h it -city .

N the tim e of th e ancient Rom ans, there was from F10rence to Sienna , and from thence toRom e, a paved

called Via Cafli a , of wh ich there are {till fom e confiderablerem a ins , though not kept in fuch good repair as theVia A p t

pia , w hich reached from Rom e to Naples .Sienna is four fiages , or thirty

-two Ita lian m iles from Flo

tw ix t Fife and Florence, yields (om eofvine-yards and olive plantations .

2 .

On a h ill, w ithin three Ital ian m iles'

and an halfofSienna ,tow ards Poggibonzi, are found abundance of petrefaaion s ,particularly turbim

'

t‘z, fi rom bi, and trocbr'

.

The a reafilfvgflr i: is a lfo tobe m et w ith here, andm uch w iter than atMo on. a village near Montpelier .

S. Fel iciti .Spirito

49 . Palazzo de’Pitti .

50. ll G iardino di Boboli .

5 1 . La Citadella di 8 . G iov .

Battifta .

52 S . Fel ice in Piazza .

53. S. Spirito.

54. ii Carm ine.

55 . LiMonaci Ciltercienfi .

56. il Ponte al la Carra ia .

57 . La Porta Rom ana .

58 . la Villa Inlperia le.

fiaintinge

3‘ IE PN RN] Hr?

Through a grate in the gu m c m ay look down in to

lies JSt. John’3 church, WM : under the m tbedr a l

a nd there i s an entrance tofitcotxfi e foot ofthe afcent. T h i:

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S I E ~N N A2

the crols “hm

In th e convent-

garden is

fpnm g from St. rancis’s

the'

ground. Spon, in his

tra vels through Greece (tom . i . p. m entions a large ins m

w ild chenru

'

ee near the old caitle at Sm m a, which is bed

lieved b uch of the inhabitants as are ol the Greek church

to have heel: infianta‘neOu lly reduced from the M of St.

Polyca rp . In like m anner I-l’ercules

’s club, which was

olive-tree , is {aid by the ancients to have taken root andcome a flouriih ing

'

tree, (fee Paufanias , lib. ii. p. Of

th e m iracu lou s thorn fat by Eberhard Lon-beard, duke of

W urtem ber at his hunting-feat ofEm fidj near Tubingen,

I hgve y giZd

en

th

fom e accoun t.

oficu na m pro'

v e opportun i the Germ an,

interregnum , to recover its liberty, after

t

zvhich, however, it was m wcontinu al agitations throu h the broils of the principal fam il ies e ijsecxally thofe of hfalatefi a and Petruzzi . At lait, inthe yea r 1 554, the em perorCharles V . reduced

'

them entire

1 under h is pow er ; and at h is refignation, in the'

year r556,their (overeign

azedevolved to h is [onPh ilip 11 . king ofSpa in .

This prince rwards, in confiden tion of a large fum ofready m on and a prom

'

u'

e tha t they (hou ld nor take partw ith t he fi nch, ceded the country to Cohue I . duke of

Florence how ever, he referved to him felf (om e.

m aritim e

Porto Hercole,together with the illand of

‘

the Sta te dc

Sienna, Februaxy g, 1 730. 1 1 am , £9 7 .

From E N N A to R Q M E‘

.

twelve

to the

Halic. l ib. iv.

3 ; and to this

has is indebted to a pretended . m iracle t hat happened

gave oecafion to the feafi ofCorpm -Cbrfi igdayq Thet

‘

Voliinium , former ly one of the chief cities of E tru

ria liee in ru ins on an em inence near this place. Accord

Pliny , lib. u . c. 52 . it was defiroyed by lightning,though h e does not fpecify the time of fuch an accident ; bu tif it happened any confiderable tim e before the Chrifiiano

I

m , e ither the city wa s repaired, or another of the (am

rism e w as bu ilt in its ace ; it bein clear from Tacitu s,Anna]. iv . c . I . that E ius Sejanus,

’Fiberius’s unworthy faa, na tive ofVolfinium ; to which Juvenal a lfo

alludes in h is fa tire s

Even th e w ife Seneca fpea lts confidently of this affa ir, Que/i . Na t. lib. iii.c. 2 5 . W ith Seneca agrees Macrobius, Satan ic! l ib. i, c. 7 .

Hi ll . Natu lib. iv . c.

Cyclades , fam ou s

tem ple, floated for a long tim e , as it is fa id .

‘

From the late im prove-7m ents in natu ral philolbphy it m ay be conjectured, that lakes , of ia llythbfe of a

’

l a rge e x tent,m a todnes floa ting iflands in the fo fining

m anner tea t u antines o the long grafs grow ing a t the bottom, deta ches itfe f, an afcends im plicated together up to the:furface of the

w a te r ; a nd the agi ta tion of thefé lakes, by Rom s, cau fes a light (lim e

to a ttend , or im pregna tes the w aterw ith fandy or terrene rticles , w hich

inter-m ix w ith the floating rafs , fai r . The w ind likewifeKnives the li(and from the more, W t a lfo fettles on the aforefaid m ix ture ofand m ud ; w hich increafing in length of tim e, is im agined to be a

floa ting illand. Hence it m ay be rcafonably doubted , whether the fix ediflands in theLam b Vu l linu s be thofe defcribed by Pliny .

Metrodorus Scepfiu s , w ho got that (imm une from h is hatred of the

Rom ans , charges them w ith attackingVol finium for no other caufe th an

to get into their-ha nds two thou fand atues w hich were in that city . Vid

Plin . l ib. “ x iv . c. 7 .

— 1m

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93

V i lla di

‘ F rdn S R 0 M4 E.

h er of convents iand hol'

pita ls. Among the Mira!b unt'

a lntin ~this city , t hat in St. Lucia

’s fquare is jufi ly adm ired as the

m ofl:elegant for the worh nanflaip, and a ffords the heft w a

ter. In the cathedral are the m onm neh ts of popeA lex anderIV . Clem ent l v . Adrian V . and John XXI . The Fam e

one has

~founds like the report of a piltol .‘The ciel irrgs and fi izes of

feve ral‘

of the apartm ents are painted’by the two Zuccatos ,

w ho, phrticd arl in the ca rdinalf

s bedeham ber, -have ’flrew eda n adm irable and judgm ent ; though thepoetical a llego-ties .were-invented b mu m Annibal Caro, . as ap ‘

p ears from a letter the cardinal Farnefe‘

to him fl a Novem

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R'

O M 3 E ?

thou ght worthy to'

be included. Fi ve years . affer rth is calcu lla tion W as m ade, v iz. 1 7 1 4, in tho « irn6nth of Ju ly , pe

Clem ent XI .‘

ordem dCarraccioli to take‘

an account of a! the

inhabitants ofRom e, :wh ich . then

the upper gi llery’

of As toothe m um bei: a t“inha~

bitm ts , Londoh is better adapted fi r it than;P avia, which

for , m y‘ lord fl

‘

w nfem h in me '

s t 72 55‘ dfu d .M kbg

of Priiffi'

a ;fiat ofl erénha uk n, w hich is confirmed brew res

another, it am ounts’

to.N el lie ha s ;

rThe {ovew igntje.of ancient Ra pe , over a great pa t «of th ew orld, m yn dem n

' to ra ife it Bonfidorably'

above m odernRom e bu t thb latter a lfo glories in d monarchy: i aifed

'bythe’profonndefi '

policy , and br an artifice of'

a W ‘

Znfibgu la r

natu re ; am t -ia dom inion , e fpecia l ly efor‘

e- t he

‘

tith e ofLuthe r; it i a lm oii fu rp'

aflbd even a ncient Rome," according . to Pros

'

per’s words 5.

Fafi a Gapy t m undzguza’quza

’”f”pqfligl ef grazi ‘

i

f

of She 6&1:m m etropolis-of. the world rffi add w fe

coun tries w here her a rm s have not penetrated, {he hold sby the

iteriure iof religiw .

’

fin

Accord ing to Ma ifland’s ca lculation p the fame year, , there w e re

confiinied inLondon in ox en, (beep and lam bs,cakes , arid hogs, and a p1 0

'

ortjonable qu aflfit? of fi ih ,

few 1, and'

vt gembles .

‘

It m u ii be obfen}ed, at London is confiderablyincrcafcd liner: tha t t im e . The n iim ber of hofifes , a ccordi ng to the fa m

’

e

au thor” inLondon, W eflm infier, and Southw ark, isQ 1 5

'

Sh e

R’

O 1M ES

W ithn g‘

m l to ex ternal (plcmb r,m agnificent; palaces, I . am irwl ined

Rom e is funnier to the ancim t'

; a t !

I difi'

er from Sb Aufi in , who, preferably to a ll other things ;willt to have [canM m in som e, Pa ul” ia are, Rom an!

fanfare. Chrifi in the fl efh, St e Bau l p rm hingg andRom em ita ancicnt lory ,

’t x : a ;

W hat h igh cat Petra -eh entcrtainedof the

flu kut of

the followihg’bcl u

that celebrated poet

M Gru drzza iii fl b a'bRam 6015”in;

E Here (bod:th’angafi and ancient feat ol

‘emfire,

In n a: vifi orioug dwd edzv’n in peace”;Here fiood, a las

And what '

wm Rom e lies bur-ydd in its ru ins .

T hole lofty fim él ure'

s’

, awhofe afpiring heads”1

Tow’n’d h p

‘

to hewv’n , La te lévell

’d

‘

with'

the earth,

Q iergrown w ith weeds m d t ram pled under foot.Rom e ; Wh ich w a s

fonce the m ifi refs of the véorld,

9 Yieldé tosthe tooth of ai -devouring tim e,W h ich levels heights and

oiaifes hum ble pl a ins .

mine ia no longer Rom a-" The fire and l it/0rd

g rande ur have defiroy’d,

°

and laid in du ll:The nohlq worlts ofnatnte andzof artAnd here her {ca tter'd fragm ents l ie interr

’dt

i'

B u t fince Petrarch’s tim e things, are ,

y erx m uch al teged a ;

Rogu e befides, the veneration tbs a ntiqm ty, a nd the natu

ral p rejudice ofm ankind, in fa vour of. thingsrlofi‘

or t abfent ,H 4 m akes

” 3

“

to i t n o,

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R 0 M E

The pe0pl

The ladies for Ottobon i,The devil for Alberon i.

’

But O thni was chofen by the nam e of Benedict x m .

,During the conclave , every daybrings forth Pafqu ina der;

copies ofwhich are (old in cofi'

ee m i les to forei ners , w ith

a ve grave requeil from the venders of keeping em i'

ecre t

but are general! too infipid to be tranfcribed, and there-5

fore I {hall not troub e the reader w ith them .

M 1500“ One wou ld th ink fom e m eans ihould be laid down for lim ‘ “m m

m iting the duration of a conclave, as fuch a d a te confine-J

m ent cannot bu t be ex trem ely inconvenient to the cardina l s ,who are accufiom ed to live in fpaciou s palaces . In England,the juries , in crim inal cafe s , are locked up w ithout

,

m ea t ,

drink, fire , or candle, till they agree in a verdia . How fa rth is m ight be im ita ted w ith regard to oonclaves , I lea ve toabler he ads to determ ine . At leafl' it wou ld pu t

‘

a flop to 3

eat dea l of caballing, and to m any ixnpropet: liberties a l

W ed the Conclavifis for they are fa t of people who m u fl:

be kept in good hum ou r,

’

a s h avingbeen p rivy to the m olt

clandeftine intrigu es} That their favour is of great intpor

R 0 M" E .

Q J

tance to the candidates, the h iltory of papal elections fufliciently dem onltra tes , they having been often the occalion of

their lol in or gain in the pontifica te. In the conclave heldupon the eceafe of an] II . N ichol as Perotii , conclavil

'

t to'

Cardina l Bell‘

arion , from an unfeafonable ca re not to breakin

‘

upon h is m a ll er’s m editation, denied adm ittance to three

of th e l eading cardina ls , w ho cam e to offer h im their jointintere lt bu t relenting this im pertinence, th ey w ent aw a

and gave a turn to the eleétion in‘

favour of Six tu s Iggfl cm t

Thefe la lt ten yea rs h ave produced fou r vacancies in them?“

pontilical cha ir. Clem en t XI . died in 1 72 1 , w ho w as fucceeded by h is fuccelfor InnocentXIII . of the houfe ofConti.The m in ifters of the latter, cardinal di St. A nes andMon

lignore di Riviera , w ere m en of pa rts, an u nder w hofeadm in iltration every th ing w ent on w ell . The pope h im -3

felfw a s a very great epicu rean , lo th a t one ready W ay to

his favou r w as to prefent him w ith l'

om e ex traordina ry dilb,or ex qu ifite liquor 5 he alfo w as fond of l

'

m oaking. Hav ingonce indul ed h im l

'

elf too far in ea ting hlh , an em etic w as

prefcribed y h is phylicians, w ho, for w ant of a ttention to

a rupture w ith w hich the pope had la tely been affl icted, bythis m eans cau fed

'

a m ortifica tion in that pa rt, w h ich putan end to h is l ife inMarch, 1 724.

. His ,l'

uccefl'

or did not

difch arge the phy fician'

from his fervice, bu t w ou ld never

take any of h is m edicines . On the,

2 th of May , 1 724,FrancefcoVincentiMaria, of the illultnous houfe ofOrlini,

ally two attendants , one as a chapl a in, th e other a s a val et ; though inem their principal em ploym ent is to carry on th e intrigues; c anvafivotes , and enter into negotiations no lefs than their m a ilers them l

'

elves.

By this fem they aoquii e fu t h addrefs a s to pal'

s l forcou rtiem in Rom e; It is grown a cu ltom , that a t the fi lingof the con

clave, they are taken into the new pontifPs houlhold, and there'

hands{om elyp

rovided for as eccl efiafi ics or laym en.5Now am ong the»my

»:

leges‘

o the ecclefiafiics '

they are a llowed at p leal'

u re to relign thei r

flees in favou r of any other, to w hom they dha ll chute to transfer them ;and liltew ife to ex change their benefices w ith any other, and choofs himwho lhou ld col late both . From th is enorm ou s

‘

priv i e ha s .

arl l‘

en the

public barga ining for benefices to that a b

‘

iih’op, w 16 m i sfortune rt

.

i s to h a ve fu ch a conclavill in h is diocele, m u lt allow of t he “change

of prebendaries, a nonriec, benefices, w . at (itch a n one’s ploafime, to

the tea t fcanda l of the chu rch . Spain m ade loud com plaints of thefqab a w “

fucceeded

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I t 0'

M E ;

tain the pope h im felf had. no rega rd for the Rom ans, andlooked upon the m as a fet of people void of truth and pro

bi ty ; and now the Rom ans w ere for ba llancing accounts

31:6 5q with the Beneventans . On the a sth of February , a fter

fun-fet, the funera l folem nity w as perform ed, a l l the ca rdi-r

m ls created by h is late bolinefs aflifting a t the cerem onyand in the inner coffin w ere thrown fom e gold and filverm eda ls . The cor fe w as ind ofed w ith in three cofiins , the

firfi w a s of cypr 8 wood ; over that w as another of lead,the cover of w h ich w as em boil

'

ed w ith the arm s , nam e, {s’a

of the d eceafed pope, and at the,bottom a

’

death’s head .

Th is cofi n being clofely folderedew as laid in a th ird m ade

of. chefnu t-tree, w hich , l ike the two others , w as faftened

w ith nails . Al l th is wa s done in the Capella del Coro inSt. Peter

’s church from whence the corpfe w as carried on

a little cart . into the church , and being drawn up over thetower portico, w as depofited in a place provided for tha t pur

pofe , wh ich was im m ediately w a lled up. Here it rem a ineda tw elve-m onth, till h is relations had agreed upon another

cc for its interm ent.

Preparatives In the m ean tim e orders were given for creel ing the Caffor a com

clave.tram debr is, or Catafa lco. The college of ca rdinals fa tevery day , giving audiences to fore ign m in ifie rs , taking careof the public fafety , and iifu ing the neceilhry dire étions forthe m eeting of the conclave .

On the 2d ofMarch the Ca tafa lco or Maufoleum beingfinifhed and illum inated, the cardinal s , during three days,fa id m afl

'

es for the foul of the decea fed pope. The heigh t

from the ground to the top of the largefl:pyram id, w h ich fl ood

in. the center of the Catafa lco, was forty-fix feet ; and th e

ca rdinals w ent up eleven {reps to the place w here they readthe m afl

'

es . At each of the four corners w as a (m all . pyra

m id term inating in the form of a tul ip . The w hole con

fitted of wood covered w ith l innen, on w h ich w ere pain tedthe pope

’s head, h is arm s, and fevera l panegyrica l

repnefentations . The Maufoleum was a ll over red,w ithou t any m ix ture of black. In one piece of pa intingthe pope w as reprefented confecrating churches and al ta rs ,which indeed w as his ch ief em ploym ent for the num ber ofchumbes confecrated by him w ere three hu ndred and eigh ty ,a nd fix tccn hundred and thirty

- tw o a ltars. Under it w a sthis infeription am ong feveral others .

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Mifl'

a Spiri

tfis’

Sanfi i .

R O M B .

cells , fom e ofw h ich a re pu rple , and others green , w ho like:du ring the conclave, w ea r purple

T he ch apel of Six tu s IV . is fitted u p for the fcru tinyand adora tion , w ith a

‘

fiove for bu rn ing the fizfl i'

ag ia or

voting bil lets ,Every con cl ave cofi s the papa l ex chequ er tw o hu ndred

thou fandfcua’i n e ither h a ve fore ign poten ta tes any grea t

rea fon to defire fr equ en t conclaves , efpecia lly the em peror

w ho not only fends a n einba ifador ex traordin ary , bu t de

fray s the ch arges of a ll the G erm an ca rdin a ls w ho go to

Rom e upon fu ch an occafion . The tw o laft concl aves are

fu ppofed to h ave fl ood h im in above two h u n dred thou fand

Rhen iih gu ilders .

On th e 5th ofD/iarch , the eleven th day afl‘

er the d eceafe

of the pope, the mzfif a [pit-fiz2:fanfl i , or m afs of the holy

ghofi ,’w a s read by cardin al Ba rberin i, in the Cape lla del la

Pieta in St . Peter’s chu rch after w h ich Monfignore Man

fredin i m ade the u fua l fpeech to the ca rdina ls , lay ing before

them th e grea t du ty of choofing a w orthy pope . Upon th is

the ca rdinal s w ent in procefl ion to th e pa lace of the Va tip

can , w here the u pper ga llery , a nd the apa rtm ents adjorm ng'

to it, w ere prepa red for the conclave . T he m afiers of the

cerem on ies w a lked firi’t, ca ry ing golden croffes ; nex t cam e

the pope’s band of m ufic, finging w m

’

crea torfl irztu s then

(fam e the ca rdin a ls tw o and tw o,and betw een eve ry two

cardin a ls their attendan ts and fom e Sw itzers . The ca rdina ls

in th is proceli i on w ere Ba rberin i, O ttobon i, Zondada rii,Corradin i, Or igo,Pol ignac, Bel luga , Conti, G iov . a ttiffaA ltieri, Petra , Ma refofch i, (h i erin i, Lerca ri, Finy , Gotti ,Porzia , Ca raffa , Cibo, Borgh

'

efe , Ferreri, Sa lvia ti, Lorenzo A ltieri, Coll icola , and Banch ierifAfter the papa l bu lls rela ting to th e elet‘ftion of a new

pope, in one ofw h ich the cardina ls a re {tiled info/[Mi les e tera m j bpientice confu ltores , i . o. infa llible counfel lors of the

etern al w ifdom ,

’h ad been read and (w orn to, fom e of the

ca rdin a ls w ent ou t of their refpeétive hou fes w h ere th eyfta id till the even ing, w hen they w ere u nder an obl igationto retu rn

"

; the doors of the conclave being then to be fh u t.

The m ethod of the eleé’tion per firu tz’

nium,a ccoflz

'

onom Es’

z

'

nyfiira tz'

onem , m ay be read at la rge in printed books . f l inp e

r ia li, w ho for h is abilities and v irtu es is very m uch be lov ed,wou ld u nqueftionably h ave carried the e eétion , had n ot

Ben tivogl io ex cluded h im , in the nam e of the king of'Spain ,

w ho a fterw ards approved of it ; for Im peria li w as fuppofedA o

to

1 20 R O M E .

ing, d d m inim um non nocébit, z. e. At leafi it w ill do no

h arm .

’

W hether Form erly the feet of fecu lar p rinces ufed to be k ifi'

ed for ,

ain Godgfr idu s Colonimfis a d m m . 1 1 75, p . a nd in Accr

fafg’m bur Morena , in Hea r . La ndon/i, w e find the Milanefe and

fcience lgifs other inhabitants of Lom ba rdy , pa ing th is m ark of reve

fl“rence and refpeét to the em peror hrederick I . The kings

of Engl and on public occafions a re ferved u pon the knee ,which is ve ry a rtful ly im proved by fom e to m a inta in , tha t a

proteitant m ay , wi th a fafe confcience , com ply w ith th e

form of the papifi s in fa inting th e pope . Bu t how conclu

five foever th e ir rea lbning m ight be, if th is ofcu lation w ere

on ly a m eer pol itica l cerem ony pa id as to a tem poral poten

lofes al l its w e ight, b confidering, th at it i s not

pa id as a token of to a lay prince bu t that the pope

thi s hom age as Ch rift’s v ica r or v icegerent, and the

head of the v ifible and apofiolic chu rch . This is fu rthe r

ev ident, in th at th e grea tefi tem poral princes , w ho are far

fuperior to th e pope in pow er had ex tent of dom inions, are

not ex em pted from th is fubm iflive du ty . It is thu s under

fl ood by the Rom an catholic princes them felves ; neither

does the pope either perfona lly , or by depu ta tion ever ibew

the l ike honou r to any m onarch upon ea rth , w h ich he cer

ta in ly wou ld not object aga inft, if it m eant only com pl im en t

and cerem ony .

At a n a udience of the em baffadors of king Henry VIII . of

England, a dog h appened to cre ep to the pope’s foot, and

fo bell avered it, th a t the em bafladors not ca ring to take the ir

tu rn a fter the dog, the cerem ony was pofiponed till a nother day

Ana m m d No perfon is adm itted to the pope w ith a fw ord or can eto the pop

e neith er m utt he have h is gloves on and w hen the Sw itzers ,

31269259 wh ow alk before the pope obferve fore igners w ith their gloves

“a Jw g .

’on tn h i s holinefs’s prefence, they im m ediately ca ll out to

them to pu l l them m ff.

As for the cerem onies perform ed by the pope on certa in

days , annua l i procefl ions , and othe r rel igiou s obfervation s ,there a re la rge printed accounts of them ex tan t ; To th a t itis needlefs to defcribe them here m inu tely .

Scou t-ping On Ma undy Th u rfday fevera l re l igious fratern ities, and

gr

a

b

“fir

m ”3. n um erous tra in of other people (am ong w hom ten or ay ‘

dozen w ere m afqu ed) cam e to St. Peter’s church , and fcourg

See Baker’s chronicles.

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W a lh ing the

feet of the

roof

p ifi'

erenee

bet x t the

w rithing at

and here.

Scou rging

R O M . E .

O n the oevening of Ma undy Thurfday ,‘

w as fung in StApoll inaris

’s church the m i/Z

’rere, com pofed for voices on ly ,by the fam ou s Corel li, and afterw ards in S . G iacom o d e iSpagnuoli the tenebm '

, accom pan ied w ith infl rum en ts , in

w h ich Chich ine ,Men icucetto, a nd Pafqu ilio, the beltfing e rsin the pope

’s chapel , a t th is tim e perform ed. From h en ce

w e w ent to the hofpita l di S . Sp irito dei Pellegrini, w h e re

perfons of qu al ityw alh the feet of the poor, and w a it on

them a t table . he m en are in a particu lar room by them

felves , fifty or fix ty fitting upon a bench, w ith a w ife] fu l lof w a rm w ater conv eyed by cocks from the kitchen a t th e

feet of each of them .

I w as once prefent a t the w a lh ing of children’s feet by th e

king and queen of‘France , w ho fca rce tou ched th em ; a n

oflicer im m ediately dried them w ith a tow el , fo th a t thew a lh ing of tw elve ch ildren

’s feet w as over in lefs than thr ee

m inu tes . Bu t here it is done m ore elfeétual ly , and f mce iti s del i ned as an a& ofabafem ent, the appearance of hum il iis w elIkept up ; th e feet of the poor being not only w a lh ezbu t afterw ards killed by thefe w ho perform that office, T h efeet of the fem a les a re w alh ed by ladies ofqu a lity i n anoth erroom , w here , however, foreigners a re a dm itted.

OnGood-Friday fom e of ou r com pany follow ing a v aficoncourfe of epic, cam e to a fubterraneou s chapel be lon ging to th e efu its , w h ich w as im m ediately locked uponthem . Every one h ad a knotted cord pu t into h is h ands ,w h ile one of the fa th ers , {l anding a t the a l tar, m ade a lon

h aran u s on our Saviour’s fufi

‘

erings , concluding, Th atthe eafi w e cou ld do w as , after h is ex am ple, to chafi ifeou i' fielb and blood.

’He then ex horted h is a udien ce ,

That in this holy du ty they wou ld not (pa re the old Adam ,

’

Es’c. Now the l ights w ere pu t ou t and the litany fl i ng ,

du ring w h ich , the a udience difciplined them felves to fom e

py rpofe . The ex hortatioo

n and the rgings w ere rep ea tedthree tim es . The l ights w ere pu t ,

ou t, I fuppofe , th a t fo rm :

m igh t not be obl iged to fcourge them felves w ith too m u chrigour ; and to fave the m odefty of others, w ho {tripp edthem felves , tha t their difcip l ine m i ht be the m ore effeé

’

tu al .

T he protefiants w ho h ad accidental y entered into th is ch a p e l ,w ere not difpleafed w ith the da rknels, being l ittle incl ined toibew their devotioh in lacera ting their bodies ; how ev e r ,they thought it adviféable not to m ake them felves known .

At lafi the difcipl ine being ended, the knotted cords w e re

returned, and the doors w ere thrown open,

R O M E, . 1 23Dn the fam e day w a s to be feen , in the G reek church , _

Cerem on ies

a w ooden m odel of Ch rift’s fepul

'

chre the bifhop had aLith

seek

round tiara on h is head, and fung the antiphone al ternatelyu:

w ith his clergyE a

’

fl er-eve’

is the u fu al tim e for baptizingT urks and Jew s, 05 6 11011566wh ich cerem ony is perform ed in the La teran church , and233

m m

grea t num bers of ecclefiaftics are at the fam e tim e adm ittedinto holy orders .

T h e m oltim proper tim e for y ifiting the ,

ch urches in Rom e,

is from the m iddle to the l atter end of lent, m olt of thefine a l tar-pieces being th en covered.

T hough a t other tim es m illiona ries are fent from Rom e Rom an

to a ll parts of Ita ly andRom an-ca tholic cou ntries , a s fuper F’w hm °f

num erary preachers of repentance ; this is m ore pa rticu larlypraétiled in lent . I am fa r from difapprov ing the end pro

pofed ; bu t th e m eans appear to m e very in'

udicious . Them ain th ing they a im a t, is to m ove the pal lions of the audi

ence w ithou t faying a word of rea l v irtu e or m ora l i andthe grounds and e ll

'

ential du ties ofChrill ian ity fo t at hewho cau fes the m olt convulfive difiortions, and draw s the

m olt tears from h is a udience, pa ll'

es for the heft preacher.And as m of’t of thefe ora tors a re fond of popu lar applau fein order to obta in it they carry a crucifix abou t them , addre sit in the m e lt pathetic term s, profira te them felves before it,

and,

beat their breaf’ts they often place a dea th

’s head before

them in the pu lpit, a s a dem onfira tive proof to enforce theirargum ents of the u ncerta in ty of hum an life, 69 7 . Al l th is isaccom panied w ith a flood of tears , w hich they have a t com

m and. Ifby good l uck an old w om an h appens tofym pa th izew ith them in thefe pretended l igns of fe trow a nd contrition,they a re fu re

°

of a trium ph , as very w ell know ing, th at

they fba ll foon'

fee the w hole audience in tears . Bu t thefeare only pa llia tives ; the a x is not la id to the root of the

tree It is not by fu ch m echanica l and tranfient im preflions

that a rea l cha nge is w rought in the h um an heart . A few

years ago fa ther Ma illardo, com ing a s m ifl iona ry to the

court of Hech ingen , preached w ith grea t zea l aga infl: h atred, ma lice , and irreconcilablenefs Chrifi , fa id h e,having loved even h is enem ies, w hy w il l ye not forgiveeach oth er I know ,

’continued he, tha t there are

There is a great affin ity betw een thefe m illionaries and theMethodifislately rifen am on [t he fo that one w ou ld im ag ine the au thor w a s de

l'

cnbing our Eugh ih enthufialtic leaders of the ignorant m ul titude.

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R O M 111 ” ?and in fom e places arfenic is m ade T hefe are works whichnece ll

'

arily produ ce very nox iou s efiluv ia, from w h ich ancient

Rom e w as free for thefe m inerals w ere then e ither nu

know n , or a t leaft not dug up .

I know not w hether a concurrence of al l thefe cau fes m ay A lteration

not h ave ca ufed th at al teration of w eather, w h ich has been°

h

the “m ’

obferved w ith rega rd to the m ildnefs of the w inters in th is as:and

,“

cl im ate . Som e pafl’

ages in Horace fh ew , that in w inter, in of the cli

his tim e , the fnow lay often in the {tree-ts ofRom e prettym t“

deep ; a nd it is pla in from the fix th fa tire of Juvenal, th a t i t

w as far from bein an u ncom m on fight in tha t feafon , to fee

th e Tibe r frozen ; w herea s in ou r age , it m u ll“ be a very{harp w in ter if the fnow l ies in Rom e bu t a day or tvt ) : Asfor the T iber, it ‘

h as not been frozen in the m em ory of anym an living .

This river a lfo has fu lfered by the a ltera tion of the coun ~ Of the m .

tries through w h ich it takes its cou rfe its m ou th w here it ff " °f the

difem bogu es itfelf in to the fea , is becom e very na rrow and

choaked w ith fand banks, and its bed by the rubbifh of th e

houfes on its banks very m u ch contracted, w h ich in a fi rongfou th w ind cau fe inunda tions, to the great dam age ofthe cityof Rom e

,a nd the ne ighbou ring country . One Corneliu s

Mayer, a Du tchm an , has indeed been em ployed by the pa

pal cham be r in ra ifmg fom e good w orks for keeping the ri

ver w ith in its channel , a nd in clearin it in fom e places ;but this m utt be the w ork of tim e . idan a re of opinion ,that by tu rn ing the T iber ou t of its ch anne for a tim e, vafi:riches and va lu able antiqu ities th row n into it in troublefom e

tim es, w hen the city w as facked a nd pillaged, w ould befound. T he w ater of th is river is fo th ick and fou l , that it

is not fit for horfes to drink till it h as fiood two or three daysfor the fil th to fubfide .

In regard to the unwholefom nefs of the a ir , the dog-da s, Rules {0‘

and fa m e w eeks a fter, a re m oftl dreaded at Rom e . he hea th 4“

precautions , w h ich , in their op i n ion , a re abfolu tely necef mil:fary for the prefervation of hea lth during the hea ts , w ou ld Rm ,

not be thou gh t of by. a fore igner. One of their good ru lesis ex prefl

'

ed in thefe verfes

Giugrto, Lugh

'

a e

Donne m te non m c

In Jun e , July , and Angu il , you m u ll have no com

m erce w ith the l adies}

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R 0 M E .

in k fl, and Caracalla , thoug

h in other ref not of the

eii characte rs, took w e 9 the city in is uleful article .

Frontinus, in h is learned work, giving an account of theom an aquedu éts , com pu tes the u anti of wa ter dai lybrought to the city ofRom e by \th wor to am ount toeight hundred thoufand runs . The three chief a ueduéts

now in being are thefe ofAqua Vir inea , A na Felice, a ndofPa ulina . The firfi w as repair by pope an] IV. T h e

{econd'

com es fromPaleltrina, which is tw enty-two m iles off

,and is a work, wh ich does honour to the pontificate of S ix -

7

ded on it a m illion offigdi , and nam ed it

11 Candatta dc [qua Felici ; Felix havmg been the nam e

w hich heaffirm ed when a m onk, and continued to bear it ti llhis ex altat

’

ion to the pal throne; It difcharges itfelf inRom e at th e

’

Fontana i Term ine, w hich was a lfo bu ilt a t{he ex pence of Six tu s V . and conftits of three a rch es , Ta p

-3

ported by four Corinth ian pillars , and the wa ter guih es ou t

throt three large a rtures . Over the m iddle arch

a beau tiful flam e of Iciofes {h iking the rock w ith his rod 5over another arch is a La o-ralim a ofAaron leading the poo;

ple to the miraculou s fprtngs in the w ildernefs ; and the th ird

gu ts G ideon try in h is foldiers by their drinking w ater .

und it are four Eons, two of w hich are of m arble,Vacca ; the other two of oriental grana te, a re fa id to

brought h ither from a tem ple of Serapis . Al l the four l ions

eieé’t w ater, and on the front is th e fol low ing infeription

Six tus a'

ntur PontifexAyuam ex ag ro Colwm w

S imfi rwfum m ultar .

Verm rum (Ju l i a [mug/5 a recepta m loXX. a Capite XXI I . addu x it,licem gue dc nam ing a nte P ant.

Caepit P ant. I f”.

‘

I . abfolvitMDLXXXVI II .

HThe aqueduéi s‘

through w h ich fam e of the firings of the a rm cla y

nveyed, w ere bu ilt by Czfin'

, and“fm i Ed by Claudiu s , be ingbrought the di li ance of forty Ita lian m iles . They w ere of fuch a heig h t ,a s to fupply al l the h ills of the city , as Pliny

relates at large, lib. x x x v i ;c . 1 5 . A nd a ccordin to him , and likew i e the com pu tation of th e cc :

lebra ted Budtens , thegharge of this w ork am ou nted to one m i ll ion th reehu ndred and eighty

-fire thou fand five hundred crowns .

‘.P op e

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R~

C) M E . 1 39On th e o ther iide of the city , w ithout the Lateran gate, is Aqua su n .

anothefl

r

‘

m ineral water, cal led aqua j'

anfl a , wh ich is ufed alfofor ba ing.

Thefe m ineral w aters are, by a great m any , drank all them a c to render them m ore pala

In au tum n the vintage is a tim e of general fefi ivi when P im fiona

the com m ona lty give themfelves up to a ll m annet‘

o l icenti “ m m “

o

'

ufirefs, the fru its ofwh ich ufu ally appear in the m onths of

Ma and June follow in It is obferved by the hofpitalbooks , efpepial ly that 0 Santo Spiri to, that the num ber of

infants received in the m achines , du ring thofi: m onths, exceeds thofe ofa ll the other ten m onths put together.T he favourite w inter diverfions at Rom e are plays and m u m s,

operas and duri the carnival , the l atter a re acted at threetheatres, v iz. the h erd , Capran ica, and theThea tro nuovo.

The firfi , w hich is fo cal led from is founder, count Al iberti, has a pit w h ich w ill conta in nine hundred per

-ions th is

is furrou ndod with feven ga lleries over one another, in each

ofwhich are thirty-five box es , in

five. I do’

not recollefi ever to

theatre .

Cardinal Ottoboni alfo, in the carnival w eek, had operas No fem aleorm ed in a private theatre bu ilt in h is palace, w here itw as

5584" 34°

eafy to gain adm ittance and here I m u ll obferve , th at the

regard to m odelty in this city ex cludes fem ale fingers from

apph ring on the Rage, their parts being perform ed by ca

]?rati, or eunuch’s drefl

'

ed in w om en’s habits

As to the Rom an cufiom s in other refpects, every prudenttra vel ler fhould be

'

fo far u pon h is gu a rd as rather to tal k too

little th an too m uch ; for in Rom e there are fevera l private

channels of inform ation , even am ong the h ired laqueys , forto the governm en t

’s ears an account of eve

?th ing

or done in the city . This, indeed, they 0 w ithan eafy oonfcience the ca lling even of a fpy Or

inform er, notbeing w ithout a patron fa int, nam ely St. Ale x iaTheir conduct, how ever, tow a rds foreigners , is very p rudent,from th e

‘

conl ideration tha t they enrich the city by ex pendingglu t furh s of m oney here annua lly , (0 they are not firiétlyattended to . At the m eeting of the hofi and other proceflions,

Queen ,W h ich is m ofi indecent, w om en

'

s a pea ring on the Rage,th is cu flom arifmg from the fanétity of the om au s, as our au thor

c s it ?

1 40 R 0 M E .

Protefi ants tiie prote'

fiants need not fea r any of thefe/bruta l infu lts wh ich

if fl

im

if in other countries they fometim es m eet t h from the bigotted

holiito e

perfecu ting fpirit of the vu lga r. A Rom an; w hen they fee

any perfon tha t does not Com ply w ith the prefcribed gen u

fl ex ions, contents h im felfw ith looking upon fuch a one a s

an heretic or an infidel , w ithou t ex prefii ng any refentm en t

even in the Mifl’

a Spiritus Sancti, w here genera lly a grea t

num ber of ca rdina ls are . prefent, m an proteitants , a t the

e levation o f the hoft, keep their Ran ing pofture , w ithou tthe leaft infu lt or incivility from the ifs guards in w a iting,or any fuch . rudenefs or com pu lfion, w hich, it is notorious , i s

practifed in the chapel at Verfailles

Freedom in In lent, and on other fa ll or m eager days , the protefia ntsrefpéa of never fa il of m eeting w ith bu tcher

’s m eat, £97 . a t the inn s

“ tingM 11 and taverns , w ithou t being a t the trouble to procure a licenfeon fa t day s" for ea ting it.

There is no place w here the Rom an-ca thol ics are (0 l ittleobfervan t of their fail s or m eager day s a s at Rom e ; and on

Sa turday they u fe th is ex pedien t to eat m ea t for fupper, wh ich

is toxw a it till the clock ftrikes tw elve , and then fu ch a repafl:a Sunday

’s breakfafth w h ich doth not com e under

the church’s prohibition . Th is the Rom ans ca ll a r fabba

tine ; andfrom thisc ufiom pofl ibly fom e of the Eng libI h avelea rned to reconcile their fondnefs for am ing w ith the oh

fervation. of the fabbath ; the card-tab‘

e being got ready onSunday even ing, and a t the found of tw elve o

’clock they fa l l

to play as if it w as Monday morning, This w as praéfifecl

to elude Crom w ell’s law s for

'

firifily o ferving the fabba th .

arm -“m of I have often w ondered to hear fom e Rom an-ca tholics, a t‘

i t ech o a public ordinary, la unch ou tw ith fuch a bold freedom aga infl;the J efu its and the u fu rpa tion of the popes , in civil m a tters ,

over the righ ts of a ll potenta tes in general ; and efpecia lly of

1 A rem arkable infiance of French Politell'

e, a s I obferved in a note

above, in the accou nt of M ilan , vol . I . How different is thisfrom the-practice of civil ized n ations, andthe m ax im s of truepolitenefs 2.Is it reckoned an incivil ity to pu t an u nnatura l conltra int upon the body ,a nd is it lets fo to offend the m ind and coni

’

cience Though ou r au thoriloes riot fpeak his m ind fo freely of the French, an Englilhm an m ay bea llowed to ex pofe their fa lfe pretences to politeneis .

1 The a u thor m ight have (pared the E ngl ifh in this partia tlar, as no

thing is m ore com m on 1 1 ) France than to la a t cards, dice, chefs, 3 c.

a s foon a s the m orning m a fs is over, whichis praa ifed in m any other

countries in Europe .

"

I‘

is true, w e are too fond,of im itating the French

in this and other inftanccs of levity ; bu tEngland mou ld not be reproach.

ed w ith vices w hich are the genu ine growth of'France.

t

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n o M a .0

The frames for public profi itutes which eatprefl'

um'

ai redw ith the Irgflr

'

tnrz'

a M u m-um inten tiona l in Suetonius

’s life

’

of Nero. cha p . Over their flew s orfl rnim , from w h ich“

is derived th e word fornicatio, w as w ritten the nam e of the

cou rtefan w ho lived there and her price, to which Juvena l ;fpeaking ofMefi

'

a linz, alludes :

“ that m ale papillir

In the h ifiory ofApollonius Tyrius , i s the followingfcription, w h ich flvood over fuch a cell

Am ong the ancients it was not perm itted, or at leaf} notufual , for thefe proftitu tes to m ake the ir public appearance

before even ing, or the ninth hour of the dr ypears to be the rea fon of Perfiu s

’s giv ing the nettle ofNona

tia to one of th at fifterhm d. The ir dw ell ingsby a lam p or candle bu rning at the ir door and

t ull ian h ad an eye in th e follow ing pa lBge , l ib. n . e . 6. Ad

um rem . J ll oram r Def M d lla in Ia r r'

lm s client'

s,”

om nibus bendribur «im am , om nibus fdcm nii ur rega in, inci

pim te m a g/é nidore tbzm’

r ag itabita r Es’

precede? dcj m a Icam ta if Incarna te , a t d: new w ig/yiorz

'

o liéidim ‘

péélica m m .

The hand-m a id of the Lord ftays in profane houfes , where ,at the begi nning of the m onth , th e m uftn ies of daem ons, the folem hities of the r ich, and the ful fi llof the incenfe, and goes out w ith initia l and hump; as froma new publ ic brothel .

’

Hence Hora ce fay s ,

j id»clam m w’a Internet

And Juvena l,

Obj icu rz'

fgucgenir ta rpisfum oque m e .

R 0 M E.

they thould l ive together in one particular , quarter,that they and their

’

gal lants m ight be m ore infanjou s; Hue

firsth er ordered, that every roftitu te dying in that fia té{hou ld be

'

bu ried in a dungh i And even w hen the m agi

Iirates by the fecret infiigatrons of the clergy reprefented to

h im , that th is w as an infrinoem ent of the ancient privileges of

the city ; that it grea tly endangered the fafety and honou r'

of

m arried wom en ; tha t it aga in opened a door to an ex ecrable

v ice w ith wh ich the Rom ans are reproached by St. Pa u ll afily, that the citizens wou ld be great fufferers , as it w ou ldlow er the rent of their hou fes ; the pope perfifted in h is ref0<h

l ution, and threatened to rem ove from Rom e and ch e h is

refidence, rather than give up (0 jufl: and com m enda le a

point. Upon th is the pope’s order took place w ithou t an y

farther bppofition . Th is behaviour of the pope is h inted atin (om e parts of the following epitaph ereéted to his m em ory .

P ius V. Ponti ex

Religm nir a: P udia tié

Pius, fi lix , 0g . Princepr.

To the m em ory ofPope Pius V.

The afi'

ertor of rel igion and chafiity,The pa tron of

°

uftice and inte ity ,The refiorer ofm oral s and dilgipl ine,The defender of the Chriltian re ligion ,W ho h aving publ ifhed fa lu ta ry law s,Saved the kingdom ofFrance,Joined princes in a league of am ity ,Acqu ired a v ictory over the T urks ,By h is noble,

aetions and atch ievem ents,Shew ed h im felf in peace and w arPious , fuccefsfu l, the greateftAnd the belt of princes?

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Converlion

n

R O M E .

of Ita ly they are obliged fevera l tim es in a year to allbm ble in

a ca lar chu rch , w here the ir crim inal a nd vicxous lives

are painted in the blackeft colou rs , in a ferm on preached be

fore them for that purpofe . They w ho a re m oved by th e

preacher’s ar en ts , and in'

token of their repen tance kifs

a crucifix W t l'l is handed abou t, are condufted to a conven t

founded for th is ex cel lent end. Maunday Thu rfday is th e

m olt rem a rkable day for thefe converfions bu t m olt of thefe

wretches a re fo hardened as to have no fu ch piou s inclin a

tions till their incapacity for their crim ina l com m trce, or th e

decays of nature u ts them in m ind of looking ou t for fom e

other w ay of fub ifi in Th is cufiom rem inds m e a lfo of an

order ofGregory XII w hich enjoin s , the Jew ilh com m un i

tygevery Sa turday even ing during Lent, to fend a hundred

m en and fifty Jew iih w om en to the oratory della S S. T ri

n ita, not fa r from the Ghetto or the w a rd alligned th a t n a

tion, to hear t he ex cellency'

of the Chrifi ian religion dif

p layed from the pu lpit. Th is prefent Lent the fubjeél s w ereChrifi

’s incarna tion and dea th , the un ion of the two na tures

in his perfon, and the doctrine of the trinity ; bu t thefe fubi 'jeéi s w ere handled w ith fuch fine fpun and m etaphyfical fubtleties , thatI cou ld h avewifhed the m a tter

'

hadbeen lefa ah

flrufe, or the m ethod better accom m odated to the capacitiesof th e perfons w ho w ere to be infirué

'

ted. The num ber ofJew s a t Rom e is abou t n ine thoufand, and by order of Pa ulIV the m en w ear a piece of red cloth on rtheir ha t, and the

w om en on their he ad-drefs a s a m a rk of dii’tinétion .

It feem s fom eth ing odd, tha t for th is infa m ou s difiinfi ion ,the favourite colour of the cardinals ihou ld have been chofe n ,and w hich is aim oli pecul ia r to them . The Jew s form erlyl ived in w ha t parts of the city they plea ted ; but the above

em'

m pudicitiae nu lIa‘

fvem'

a non fhm a'

, rm : d a te, not opibu: M i ran:iu fvem rz

'

t. Nem o enim illit‘ ‘vitia rider ; net corrumpere cm umpife mlam «m a tter . i . e. In (bob a pa niou s na tion adu lteries are very ra re;and the bu lband has the pow er 0 im m ediately revenging him fclf. Theadu lterefs

’s hair is cu t off, then (tripping her naked in the refence of

her near relations , he tu rns her ou t of doors and fcou rges er throughe

the"

tow n . This isTo u npardonable a crim e and w ithal'

fo infam ou s;tha t neither beau ty , age, nor fortune , can rocure fut h a one anotherhu fband ; for there v ices arenot m ade a jel of nor do they content

tha nfelves w ith ex c la im ing againlt the corruption of the age .

‘

(Lud'ne,w hether the puniflunent m entioned here by Tacitus , he leis [hocking to

m odeiiy than the offence that occafioned . it ? Surely ou r au thor cou ld not

look upon the ancient Germ ans a s a civi lized people w ho tolerated fa chindecenciew

R - G M E: Q4;

confined them w ithin narrow bounds

the generality of them live in a very

and fold more reafonabl here thanin inan other pa i ts of Ital y, butw ine is not included ill theM t m

rates 0 ordin aries every one drinking w hat he likes belt,which, how ever, is of a m oderate rice. All over Italy the

pigeons are very la rge, fat, and oiya del icate flavour. The

veal alfo is'

very hbc here, éfpecial ly the v ital]: m ongane for

inliead ofgrafs the ca lves are fed only w ith m ilk and yolks .of

The pork in Italy is accounted better than that of

l'griiiice or Germ an th e w inter food for the hogs being thehulks of

‘

pes, be ides morells, trufl es, and cheflzriuts . Efi

culent hegh:and Vegetables of al l kinds are to he had at Rom eall theyear ,

round. The fritits are ex qu ilite, efpeciall the

Perugia m elons, wh ich are preferable to an other. Theywho arefor havm g early fruit fend to N ap es for it; fromwhence al fo com e thofe forced cherries wh ich are ferved at

Ma undy Thurfday , when the pope enterta ins thecardinals ; but if th e Nea

'

litan fru its ripen foonefi , thofeofRom e are m uch

,

better. Iiio

ls hot cu itoma ry in I taly to invitelhangers to m eals ; bu t at Rom e it is not difi cu lt to get ao

-t

quaintedw ith fom e of the cardinal s, and they are not,back

‘

ward in receiv ing vifits bu t noth ing how ever is faved by itFor the Cardin als fervants are fure to m ake the g irth padearly for h is enterta inm ent

,and (0 m ean fpirited are the e

fellows, tha t if the ve nex t da after a vili t, a rfon enters

theirm afier’s houfe agai n, th {m ound h im fohciting a band

mane, or gra tu ity . t is the am e‘

if one goes!

to a'

concert,

or a

}p at play, or on receiving the m olt trivial Civility at

any 0“es

A carrla e is what a foreigner cannot w ell ,bew ithou t at ”m y

Rome,‘

an though in carnival tim e the rate is a t leaft fou r coachel c

teenpaolzf

f a day, in furnm er they may be had under n ine.

re are bu t Very few fedan cha irs at Rom e, and none 50be had for hugle perfons . A grea ter inconvenience here is,ihatthe

’

fireets are nor li hted ; and w hilft I am finding faul twith Rom e , I m u ll ad tha t I ex trerh ely diilike the ir wayOfdrying ‘

their linen , wh ich is not only done ou t of the w ine

dows but upon r0pes acrofs the (tract ; and what a m ean ap

derived a m agm dir,‘

tam umm ada m am a M y

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a o; M E .

S - ln the m d n tim e ca lled to h is fervant not to h ike

would have favedvex a tion . It coli the p0pgbefore the ofiiender cou ld be

found out, w ho w as fent tot he galiies for five ea rs , w h ichis the punilhm ent for allhu lting a fore ign m inilibr’s fi rvm t,

The pope, as a tem poral prince, ha s no (m all influenceon th e affairs of Italy , w ith w hich the tranqu ility ofEuropeis alfo connected and fom etim es it happens tha t he finds it

nece il‘

ary to treat w ith th e Britiih court. This cannot be

done bu t through a th ird h and w hich u fed to be the cardi

na l for the im perial affa irs at lhom e ; bu t fince the m ifun

derfianding betwix t the courts of London and Vienna, thecardh lal -proteéior of France has been the infirum ent.

A few days before the dem ife of pope Benedit‘l XIII . I

lilw a letter from ca rdinal Pol ignac, w ri tten with his ownhand, to Mr

s S earnefi ly deliring h im to prevent a

certain afl'iur from com ing to ex trem ities,and a llow a little

tim e for the college of ca rdinals , w ho w ere entirely difpofedto do the Englifll gentlem en

°

uftice Th is rel a ted to Mr .

St brother to the earl 0 .Ch d, w ho h ad been a ll :

fronted in the rfon of one of h is dom efticks:At the

breaking up of e Opera , a cardina l’s fervant cal led out to

m ake room , for h is m a iler w a s com ing, w h ich civility an

the privileges of tha t order, indeed; requ ire ; but it now hapf

Pened, that the c'

ardina l’s coach w as em pty , and a great

w ay behind ; whereas Mr . St -’s chariot w as already be:

fire the door, and he going to fiep into it . His ferva nte fom e rgmonii rances to the officer, w ho w as for drivin

0

k the etoud, and on ly defired leave for his m ail er (w ho 6name indeed he did not mention ) to pafs ; bu t a ll the

‘

nbtice

the officer took of the fervant’s requeil w as , to hit h im over

the head w ith his cane Mr. Sr requ ired that the ofi'

ieer

(bu i ld be tu nedout ofh is place, w hich wou ld have been noa fy m atter, as he w as a relation of cardina l Cofcie. In the

mean tim e the emeer took care of him felf; and whether on0

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R 0 M 5thc protefiant governm ent in E ngland, whether openly 0:

underhand, it w as well ‘ l‘

m own he w ould do it ; but how farEngland cou ld carry its relentm ent

, when it purpofes to reta liate evil for evil , is as yet unknow n and pollibl it w ere

h eft for the pope never to give any occafion to ca u e h im to

ex perience it. The cfi'

eét of th is rem onltrance w as , thatthe Pretender

’s rem oval to another palace w as poftponed ;

and Alberoni had the m ortification of being charged w ith am eflitge to the Pretender, to ,

fign ify the ch ange of the pope’s

m ind. Upon th is a {top w as pu t to the difpolitions al ready,a t the palace ofLungha ra, The Pretender having

reprel'

ented that the removal w as the m ore necefl'

ary , as h is

num ber of dornefi ics ,w h ich the increafe ofhis fam ily obliged h im tokeep, th is difficulty was rem oved by bu ildi ng an additiona l w ing to h is

koufe . Mr, S has certainly been of confiderable

N ice to the En lilh cou rt, by 11 1 8 vigilance in obferving the

conduct of the finglifh and Scotch gentlemen w ith rega rd tothe Pretender. As to h is {kill in the Greek and ~

Latin an

t iqu ities , he is in fuch reputation at Rom e , that in a ll th ings

of that kind, a s w hen the ex planation of an ancien t m edal

or intaglio is to be determ ined, h is ju dgm en t is general ly a pr

pea led to. Th is al fo gives him m anv opportunities of dif

pofing of antiques at a m uch higher pri ce than they coll:

h im . His apartm ent is not th e neatelt I have feen :His con ,

l iant com panion in it, {om e tim e fince, w as a'

young w ild

boar, bu t having prefented this to anEnglilh gentlem an , it

h as been fucceeded by feveral owls . Upon m y a lking h im ,

how he cou ld bear toh ave creatu res , w h ich necelTarily ca u fed

fo m uch nafiinel'

s about him 5 his anfw er w as , Tha t beingfrequ entl inclined to » h pocondriac diforders, the fight of

thefe bir {till m ore d and fa tu rn ine than their m after,

brought h im into good tem per aga in . I have been a libi-cd

that a m edal has been {tru ck for h im, with h is bufio on on e

fide, and on the reverie, Diogenes in a cafk. Before h iinfl ands a dog, a nd beh ind h im , on a tree , a raven , or an ow l .

A pafqu inade, reflecting upon h im , w as la tely difperfed, in

w hich the ow ls w ere la id to be h is only deities but thefe

genfu res affect him (0 little , tha t he lent a copy of the pa f

quinade to England, as doing him honou r, by lh ew ing how

m uch he is both feared and h a ted a t Rom e, as a contin u a l

ghitacle to the [cherries of the l’retender and his adh eren ts .

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1 58 R‘

0 M“ Er

M0531“ I rem em ber to have feen in the hands ofS t. Urba in, the:g

rdm a l N°"

fam ous m eda l ifi, at Nancy , (w ho w orked five and tw en,

years at Rom e , under old Ham erani ) a m eda l firuck in ho

nou r of cardin al Noris in w hich the delignw as v ingen iou s , ahd the ex ecu tion m alterly . Chro

'

ology an hiftory‘

w ere em blem atica lly reprefented w ith thez: legends , bij iorzav indica ra , h ifiory im proved,

"and cbrdnologia rgfl itu ta ,

ch ronology refiored.

’

T he un iverfity of Pifa has alfo conim em orated th is car

dinal in a m edal , on tine fide é fw h ich is the cardina l’s head,

w ith theic words ;-Henr .

-Ga rd. Nor is , Ven n. S .

and ,on the other an obe liik, w ith Ti naloga, Cbronologa,

J ifflml, and underneath l ead. P ifam

‘.

zThe life of this c a rdinal w as .w ritten by hi s countrym an

B ianch in i, in the firft part degli l rcadi, and alfo inMaffei’s

Verona flirt/1m m .1 g

At the entrance of the church is-a holy

~w ater veli'

cl, h eld

by ,

the angels Gabriel , Michael, and Raph ael ; the wholeis of fine m arble .

Obfervations I m u i’r here take particu lar notice of a Madonna on the‘

50'

high a ltar, fa id to be done by S

be pa in,“m an of h is pieces in different places, that it is a m yfiery to

by SnLuke. m e w he Cou ldo

rfincl tim e for any thin d ie. A great

n um ber of pictures, indeed, are ex tant by aphael, Ruben s,.and other celebrated artiiis but not to m ention tha t pa in t

ing w as their fole em ploym ent, they had abu ndance of:difc iples w orking under the eye of their m afl ers, and the la t:ter often only ga ve the finiih i fi rokes ' to piece, ,

n ei

ther of w hich ca n be (a id of St. uke . People of a certain

devotiona l taite, if I m ay me the ex prefiion, pl ace an in

efi im able va lu e on St . Luke’s p ieces bu t I

'

never m et w itha connoifl

'

eu r in pa inting, w ho did not greatl prefer chofeofRaphael , Rubens, Vandy lte, Es

’c. to thofe purious pieces .

Even the fam ou s pa inter Carlo Maratti, w ho wa s 3 fou nd

ca thol ic, m ade no fc'

ruple to declare, that had he lived in

StaLuke’s t im e, he cou ld have given him foul

i

e necefiaryinfiruétions for m ending his hand .

St. Agnes’s , w ithin the ci

ty, on the Piazza Navona , is

not a very large chu rch, but uperbly em bellifhed ; and the

palaces on both fades being al ike in fym etry of architectu re,add grea tly to its outw a rd appearance . Its figure is

'

w ithin it are eight large Corinth ian pillars of red and w h ite

m a rble, a grea t m any ba r-relief} , of w hich thofe over m ofl:

of the alta rs are“

ofone block of m arble, a lthough very

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R O M E”

th e u‘

e‘

fy nex t year by a folem n bu ll , ratified the infiitutionof this order . Though this order w as inconfiderable in its

beginning, it grew [0 num erous and powerfu l in a {horttim e, tha t crowned heads, and even popes them felves have

fl ood in aw e of it. It appeared from a lift printed a t Rom e

in 1 679 , that the num ber'

of Jel'

uits a t tha t tim e am ounted

to feventeen thoufand fix hundred and fi -five ; of w hom

fey en thou fand eight hundred and feventy even w ere priefis .

But by the {l a te of th e order publilh ed by the general of the

J efu its, I find, that in 1 7 1 7, to ufe his ow n term s , it had

thirty-(even prov im i¢ , or provinces; m en -five dam

fefi rum , or convents of profefl'

ors, fix hun ed and fifty rol

Iegia , or colleges , fifty-nine dam n: proba tionis, or bou les of

nw itia te, three hundred and fi rg/id mti¢ , or places of refi

dence, above two hundred m i m , or m illions , a hundredand —one em ifl ur, or com m unities , and fem ina ria , or

fem in an es . The fi cii, or m em bers of this order, accord »

ing to the fam e account, w ere nineteen thoufand eight hundred and feventy

—fix , and of thele, ten thoufand and th irtyfi x w ere priefis a In the adm ilfion and profeflion of m em bers

d i

me a particular regard to three qu a lifica tions, 1 . That

of in order to increafe the num ber of their pa tronsboth at court and in the country . 2 . W eal th, in order to

au gm en t their(lock. 3. G en ius or pa rts . Th eir artifice

in engrofling to them felvos, as they have done in m olt pupiihcountries , the education of you th , pu ts it in their pow er to

a llure into th eir fociety fuch fubjeéts as a re w ell qua lified inone or a ll the three above-m entioned requ ifites, and by th is

m eans to ga in an univerfal influence in m olt flares .

They m ake the ir w ay into courts and pal aces, pry intoth e fecrets of fam ilies 5 and on this account they are uni

I t m u ll be a llow ed that they live in i nf ex em gfla r {abjection to th eir fuperiors , and a re tem pera te in their iet, 8te.

fo th at a Jefu it for food, cloath ing, and al l necell'

aries, {landshis

’order in Pearce feventy dollars yearly .

M ea l. 6 3. firth .

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R 0 M E.

Barrilla Lom bardelli dell a Mann , and N ic . Pom arancio.

On the righ t hand are two figures of li oneffes in niches inth e w al l, w h ich belonged to a tem ple of Diana that flood A tem ple of

n ea r th is church they are of yel low m arble w ith (treaks ofbom b a ntics in la id by w ay offhades, and under each ofthemis a w h ite ox . I can not fay that the w orkm anihip appearedto m e any thing ex traordinary bu t being antiques, theyare h igh ly efieem ed. The court of the convent is pavedw ith pieces

‘

of w h ite m arble , nerd: antico, and pow hich ih ew s that fom e fine bu ildings anciently Rood on is

lpot, the rem a ins of them having been pu t to this u fe. Thebu ilding contiguou s to th is convent, fuppofed to have beena tem ple ofDiana , now ferves for a grancry w ithou t any a itera tion m ade in th e wa ll s and arches ; on wh ich a re [eenfom e cou rfe inlaid work refem bling an afs and a l ionefs , Inthi s old bu ilding are alfo kept fragm ents of antique fl am es

dug up ou t of th is place ; and am ong thefe ! are fom e

hea ds , la id to be thofe ofVefpalian, Seneca , and other fa

m ou s perfons . In the garden of the convent ii a pleafantlaurel-grove, w ith a founta in and a cana l in the center.

Hereabou ts flood Ma cena’s garden and tow er, from which Ma m a

'

s

Nero is (a id to have view ed the confl agra tion of the ci of m m “

Rom e ; bu t at pre lbnt nothing of them rem ains, the p acebe in filled u p w ith m odern bu ildings .

Ti ofe w ho adm ire horfes m ay m ee t w ith uncom m on en Blemng

'

of

terta inm en t here on the ryth of Janu ary, at St. A'nthony

’sw “ ,

chu rch , tha t da being the fe ll iva l of the faint ; w hen a llthe hot

-k s , m es , &c . belonging to the pope, cardinals,prela tes , princes , and other great m en, are drawn up be.

fore the chu rch-door, w here a prieli (prinkles them wi thholy w a ter. If the horfes and m u les receive nobenefit fromth is praftice, the m onks at icail find the fw eets of it. AtSien na , the horfes wh ich a re to run the race on the affum ption of the V irgin Mary, a re the day before blelfed in the

fam e m anner w ith holy w ater a t the door of the ca thedra l,

and the officiating prieft has at lea li a w a x candle as an of

fet ing for every horfe . W hether the h eathens w ho fprink.

led their bories at the Circenfian gam es h ad any rel igious

view in it, I {hal l not determ ine ; how ever, I fuppofe the

Rom anill s took the h int from them , as they did of m olt’of

their (uperfl'itious cufiom s fl'

SeeDr. Middleton'

s letter from Rome.

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1 72

m u l titude

of nu t ty rt.

R O M E

Hi: Leopold, I)H i: tom e, mpt rm m .

Behold Leopold, celebrated for piety and va lou r ; byth e la tter he ga ined an earthly , and by the form er a hea

ven ly em pire .

’

Under the em peror Charles

i

v I . are theic words

Regna m ea nt Roger, fid Te qua nom ine dicamCa role, gum Regom m unda r u terguefacit

Kingdom s m ake kin s ; bu t by w ha t title,Ch a rles,

can I ca ll thee, w ho h, the em p ire of both w orlds

In this part of St . Bibiana’s church , it is pretended that

five thou fand tw o hundred and fix ty-fix m artyrs are bu ried,

befides their w ives and children ; and on th is account,

from All-fa ints -day to its oé'

r'

aoe, indu lgencies. for reven

th oufand y ea rs m ay be an nu a lly obta ined, a s is certified byan infcription to

° be feen on an old {lone here . On the

left-hand, near the ch urch , a re the ru ins of a pa lace, bu ilt

by the em peror Licinius and tow ards the fi reet, in a ga r

den near the ch u rch , is an im age of a bea r, w ith a fort of

a cap on its head, w hence this part of the city has acqu i

red the appellatian of O rfo pilea to. I cannot difcover the

defign of‘

th is piece , w h ich is bu t very i'

nditi'

erently ex ecuted.

I ts h a ir refem bles th e fca les of a fiih , its legs are a l li) v erylong, and the w hole looks m ore like a lam b than a bea r.

Th is arden produ ces a n herb ca lled S . Bibiana, wh ich

pae s i t an efficaciou s rem edy for‘

the h ead-ach and fa ll

ing-ficknefs 1 1 ord er: 2 forte/Ea ; One is not

'

obl i ed to

bel ieve it ; a s th e Ita l ian s them felves fom etim es.

fizzy , inanfw er to inch idle fiories . This h erb is no other than

Eu

fa torium ru infoliis Ca nnabisn S . Carlo a lli Ca tinari, the grand corin th ian pilla rs of

porphyry , and a tabernacle of green jafper on the nea t aitar, a re w el l w orth feeing . Here is an epitaph of orenzo

Sperandi , w hofe cha raéter is confined to h is pa rticul ar ad

drefs in am icably term ina ting the difi'

erences betw ix t h is in

tim ate friends or rela tions .

'

Such a fingu la r pane’

gyric putm e upon w ondering a t the

'

fa lfe tail e of m ankind; who, inflaad of celebrating thois valuable qualities and {ubit

aintial

en OW ”

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R O M E.

1 7. Clock-work, and m ufica l au tom a te .

1 8 . Corals , and feveral other vegetables from the M edia

terranean, the Red-Sea , and the ocean .

1 9 . Mechanica l inventions and m ach ines for l iftingW eights .

20. A fine colleétion of (even ! kinds of m arble, ag ate,alabafier, together w ith their nam es, and this infcrip tion

quoque i fix £9'

Iapz'

dz'

bur nature in qu a do

.l mbroj :P r¢fa t. in

The ver

yrocks and {la nes have afforded entertainm ent

to thofe w o {tudy nature .

’

2 1 . The beazil of a ring found in an ancient Ch riitian

tom b, h aving engraved on it a dolphin and an anchor, w ith

thefe Greek ch araébers : l x e ‘

rC ; i . e . a hfh (om e in ter

pret th is in a m yll ica l

2 2 . Earthen utenfils of a ll countries, porcelaine of Japan,China , Perfia , Ste .

23. Bul l s of the ancient em m rors , likew ife a fiatue of the

V irgin Mary , w ith the infant Jefu s , confiflring of little pea rlsof different colours , m afga rz

'

tini, &c

24. Pieces of w riting in m iniatu re am ong w hich is So

lem on’s fong in Hebrew , included in a very n arrow com

p afs . Som e of thefe works of penm anlh ip reprefent por

traits, 8 m.

2 5 . Curiou s (hells

2 6. Ea rthen vafes , faid to be pa inted b Raphael .

2 7. Piétures of celebrated perfons , as etrarch , M ich ael

Angelo, Ste .

1

2 8 .

'

Hats, caps, &c . m ade of the’fibres of ex otic"trees andeaves .

Petrefaél ions , Malta vipers ton u es , elephants teeth ,

foflil ivory , 8 m. Am ong the petrefa'

ons , the m olt x c

m a rkable is a whole h um an body turned to ftone .

30. Tabu lar votive , or votive pieces , am u lets , &c .

1 . Ancient infcriptions, am ong w hich is one Volcanoeto Auguf

’to.

32 . Antiquefi ilz'

, or w riting infirum ents, bracelets , bel lsa nd keys .

33. Antique feals, w eigh ts , &c.

Infi rum ents u fed in ancien t faerifices .

35. Points of the darts and {pears ufed by the anc ients .

36. Ah .

M B:

que bronzes , ancien t m onum ents on the fettlem ent of a colony , being a plough draw n by two ca lves,two ox en, and a m an driving them ; fevera l (m a ll idols ,

prief’cs , lam ps , and a large eagle , being the enfign or {tan

da rd of a Rom an legion .

37 . Bow s, arrow s, ih ields, and other arm s of favage

num ber of m arble bafi -reliw o’r, and'idols of

39 . Sm a l l earthen vefl'

els from fevera l foreign countries,of delica te w orkm anfh ip.

Earthen an tiqu e lam ps,4. x . Urns, a great m any of w h ich are Very deep eta/it

lacrym a tor ia , 8 m

42 . Heads of ancient fiatues , antique m afks of feveral

Bones of large anim als .

44. The na tu ral w eapons of feveral an im als , as the hornofa Rhinoceros , an Un icorn

’s horn,

'

&c .

45 . E tian m um m ies .

46. A ar e col lection of fea (h ells ; am ong wh ich , one

cal led the Pnefi’s Cap, is of fuch a venom ou s na ture, that

the leafi w ound of it rs m ortal .

47. A large tile infcnibed thu s 1 Rage Dom . nofi ro fl ea

dar icofi Iix Rom a .

Inferiptions on m arble a fragm ent of theq i confu1am ; _

a very fcarce m eda l, reprefentm g the adora tion of the'

eafiern Magi, of the fize of a dollar, but th inner.

Hetru fcan antiqu ities .

50. Sa lts and‘

cryfta ls .

5 I G'

lafs and enamel led works, m ofi of them antiques;

The above particu la rs I have fe t dow n m the,

confu fed .

m anner in w hich I found them , and h at e left ou t a c reat ~

m any th a t w ere either too com m on , or too trifl ing . ver\

the door of the firfi gallery is th is infcription in honour of

the pretender :

first Magm a Br ita nnia digna tur 1 m Mufarumbum a nita te ip/i pretium

x 78 R O M‘

E .

Qbrem Pope Clem ent the Kl th’s vifit, in 1 7 1 8, is alfo confine

“1°m ora ted on the other tide ofthe door. You will readily con-sIngene

5 3, or m y . CCIVC, Si r, from our form er com erfatlon on that head, th a t

nera tion of when I was in th is fanm us m ufi um of father Kircher, I w a s

PM “not w an ting to look out, w ith al l poflible ex aaznefs , for a

chem ical vegetation 5 by wh ich birds, p lants, and flow e rsa re regenerated from their a ibes Andnot m eeting w ith an ything of that kind, I afl ted the J efu it, whether there ha dnot been fuch a preparation form erly am ong the father

’s cu ~

’

riofrties , but th ey a ll afi rrned they knew nothing of it. T h is

further confirm ed m y fufpicion , tha t all that Moncony s ,Schott. G afl

’

are l , Digby Val lem ont '

, and particul arly fa

ther‘

Kirche had w rit about chem ica l ve ra tions w a s a fa

ble‘

. m ow n m y cu riofity h ad been 0 ra ifed, that in the

Netherlands ,“

England, France , Denma rk, Ital y , and G er

m any , I continu ed m enqu iries after it for (even ! yea rs ,not on ly in m uj izum s, u t al fo of ex perienced chem ifts bu t

all to no;pu rpofe . {If thi s be no decifivefuflicient grounds for doubt. From all

folved in a l iqu id, particl es are carried up w ith the evapora

tions of the diffolvent, a nda dhere to the fides ofthe veilbland thefe concretions or cryftal l iza tions, are fom etim es feen

to have a kind of refem blance to trees, plants , or flow ers .

The l ike phe nom enon appears on g la fSpw indow s in th e

m orn ing, a fter a h ard froft, w here the eye, by the help of a

firqngv

im ag ination , m ay fee variety oftrees, leaves, flow ers ,

a nd other vegetable produétions I . But furely th is fancifu l

appearance w ill never be j et,

on a'

footing w ith the real v egeta tion of trees and plants . T he

,cryfia lizations offa l-a rm .

nia c, Or fa lt-petre, difl’

olved in Cha m pagne or Bu rgundy, ex

bibit ap retty im ita tion of grapes, but by no m m a genuin e

The au thor, it is prefinned m eans Sir Kenelm Di l

g, who doe s

not fl y he w as pan'

ell'

ed of this feeret ; how ever, he tricci e fol low in

ex perim ent 5 He ca lcined ibm e nettles , leaves, (ta lks , and roots, an

m ade-a Pcrong l ie ef ir, which he ex poted to the air du ring a fi'

ofiy nighs

The lie being tim es , he tells us , ex hibited the nettle-k i tes very on e} ,w ith the indentings , a t . bu t they had not the natura l ee low . Fancym ight opera te fh

'

ongly here, and probably thi m ight be no other tha n

the phznom enon on glafs , Cd’c. w hi t he an hr takes notice of below .

‘

1 Web Hifl . do l’Acad. Ry e ]: der Sdm a r,

fit l a the third pm of the Mem oirs of the l h niflu ficm of Scien-m

ees , is an adm irableM erw ion of the late learned j ohann ,Gram m , ind -0.

tled, De a rtifia’

o na tum , qua certa ram rerun: im agine: infang/iris fvitr eis.

gala abdufl i: refin e nta u tu r . Of the natura l im agery form ed on lafs

‘L-w indow s by 0 This bein an hiltorical piece, another Danilgph ilofopher has treated of it p

hyfi y .

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( 80 R 0'M E .

honrs ; thu s the cryfi all izations of the m ercury and fi ver

w ill rife to th e furface of the l iiiu id, in the form of a tree,

fpreadi ng its branches from the trunk in the center .

’

. In the Collegio Urbano de propaganda Fide, are educated

thirty-fix fcholars , defigned for m illionaries , to be (em ou t

a ”PP"

of Euro e ; and that the m ay m ore fuccefsfu l ly difcha rgeanda fidc. P y8

the i r funétion in A ha , here i s a particular printing-houfe for

the orienta l langu ages . It is a handfom e building, defigned

by Bernini.

I have a lready m entioned the Germ an college near

pollinate’s church, and to avoid prol ix ity , {h a ll pafs over above

twen m ore .

5 .Clem ente S . lem ente in Monti, one of the oldelt churches in thein 15401“ city of Rom e , has an a lta re ij alé, or an a ltar that {l ands

a lone, detached from the w a ll , of fine porphyry ,

pillars , and two p u lpits of w h ite m arble ; near one of the

l atter is a pillar of ancient m ofa ic ; of w hich work is a lfo the

a lcove beh ind the h igh a lta r. It is beau tifu lly paved w ith

inla id w ork of (m a ll pieces of porphyry, verde a ntico, ellow

and :white m arble, (i t . and the roof is richly gi t and

pa inted.

T h is church lies on the left-hand, beyond the Col ifaeum

and in a vine-yard and kitchen-ga rden , near it, are fom e t e

m ains of ancien t ba ths or other edifices : Som e w ill have th is

to be Maecenas’s garden , and others the baths ofAnton inus

Carraccalla .

S. Cofianza fuori di Porta Pia is of

th e roof of it reits on twen -four pillars

Ra i ding in pa irs . The cie ing is of anci

prefenting birds , grapes , and the prefling of them , or vin

tage ; from w hence [om e conjeéture , th a t th is w as ancien t lya tem ple ofBacch us . Th is is contradiéted b

, others , w ho

m a inta in , from Anaftafiu s’s Life of St . Silv er,

ftantine the Grea t ra ifed th is firuétu re in im ithtion of th e

La teran baptiitery , for the folem n ity of baptizing the tw o

Confiantia’s , h is da ughter and l ifter .

Long port The m oitrem arkable th ing here i s a la rge ihrine or com u ,

PhY’Ya m“ off a fingle piece of porphyry , fou r feet in'depth , above fiv e

broad, and eight feet and a ha lf in length . On the fides arecarvedw reaths, ga rlands, and boys w ith bunches of gra pes ,w hich is the m ore cu riou s from the difficu l of w orking por

phyry , on account of its hardner'

s . The id is a lfo m ade of

one piece, but dam aged. Som e th ink this to have been th e

tom b

R O M E . 1 31 .

tom b ofTu lliol a , Cicero’s daughter ; others w ill have it to

be that ofT u llia , w ife of T arqu in iu s Superbu s ; others , w ho

have th e leaft probability on th eir fide , afiirm it to havebeen

the {brine of Bacchus .

The church di S . Cofm o e Dam iano i n Cam po Vaccino, 5 . Comic e

i s rem arkable for its being pa rtly round and partly fqu areDum m

it h as a noble a ltar, and its tr ibuna or a l le is of old m o a ir

work, reprefenting Chriit w ith h is fifcip es . There i s a

fpring in the fubterraneou s vau lt belongin to this chu rch,and abou t ten Reps row er there is another, th (aid to have

broke ou t a t the tranllation of St. Fel ix’s rem a ins . Before

the church ftands two porphyry pillars ; and it is though t Tem ple of

th a t th is w as an ancient tem ple dedicated to Rom u lus and Ru m “

Rem u s , bu t afterw ards converted into this church .

and Ra w "

S . Croce in Geru fa lem m e , for antiqu ity and reliques ex S t. Croce in

ceeds m olt churches‘

in Rom e . It w a s bu i lt by ConftantineOsm a

the Gre at, a t the defire of h is m other Helena ,‘

in honou r ofm

the crofs of Chrii’t ; three pieces of which are pretended to be

kept here, together w ith one of the nails u fed at his crucifix ion , and l ike e th e infcription on the crofs in Hebrew ,

‘

ljhe infcripGreek, and La tin . According to N iqu etu s

’s Hf/Iarz

’

a 7 3 145 219

31Gra tis , l ib. i . c . 23, 24, th is infcription w a s firfi fou nd in

n

1 492 , in .the pon tiiicate of Innocent VIII . after having beenconcea led above a thoufand years in a leaden cheit. T he

whole {to of the In‘vm tioGrind s, or the finding the crofs ofChrift byzonftantine’s m other Helena , Sa lm afiu s in h is trea

tife de Gra ce, p . 296, {h ew s to be a m eer fiétion , and the

m ore im probable, on account of th is fu ppofed infcription .

For w here w as th e neceility of a m iracle for diftingu iih ing the

profs on w hich our Saviour fu ii'

ered, from thofe of th e m ale

faétors , if the above-m entioned infcription w as fou nd near

it as it w ou ld pla inly appea r from the hole and na ils, w hich

of the crofl'

es it h ad been affix ed to, thou h even the tw o

oth er m a lefaétors , as is probable, had a lgo their infcriptron s .

In th is ch u rch th ey likew ife pretend to th ew one of the

p ieces ofm oney for w hich udas betrayed ou r Sav iou r . Q n

one fide of it is a head w it long h a ir and a glory rou nd i t

on the rev erfe a flow er, w h ich {om e take to be a role , a nd

oth ers a fun-flow er. T he Greek word POAION , to be (een

on

‘

it, w hether it be the genetive plu ra l‘

eodhv ro

, or an

adjeétive agreeing w ith the fubfiantive vop w p a , indicatesit to be a Rhodian coin ; and the flow er m uff be a rofea “1

Greek For it appears from ancient writers, thetatil

de

l an

iiland w as fo called from a great n um ber of rofe bu ih es be ingdug up in laying the founda tion of its capita l . The radiancyabou t the head denotes th e calofi rr, or fl am e of the fun creel:

cd at the entrance of the h arbour ofRhodes , and accounted

one of the (even wonders of the w orld. More of thefeRhodian coins w ith a tofe, a nd a radiant head ofPbarbur, or the

fun, are to be m et w ith in Seldm de 7 10 7 Na t . fis’Gent. lib.

ii . c . 8 . Hubertus Gala r'

a s in Nam . 7 216. ii. de la

Cbazfle, Bagar a s, and others ; bu t they are feares of h a lf

the w eight and bignefs of the Jew ifh fhekel , the value of

which is eneral ly com puted a t ha lfa dollar in that a grea tm any fuchcoins as this I have been defcribing, w ere requ i redto m ake up thirty of the filver pieces w ith w hich Juda s w as

bribed. It is probable, that the foldiers , foreign Jew s , traders , andRom an oflicers brought a grea t variety of m oneyto Jerufalem and that they w ere cu rrent, ap pea rs from the

tribu te m oney w ith the em peror’s im age on it ibew n toChrifl

neither is it certa in , th a t Judas wa s pa id the reward of h is

treachery in fhekels. Now al l this am ou nts to no m ore th an

tha t there is a poifibfli?! that Rhodian m oney m ight have

been ufed on this occ 1011 , bu t does not in the leaft prove ,tha t th is piece kept in St . Croce

’s church w as part of it. And

indeed, a ll it refi sc on is m ere ora l tradition , or ra ther im po

fition . The potter of whom the field w as bought for thofeth irty pieces of filver, cannot w ell be fuppofed to have pu t

th em apart from h is other m oney , or to h ave kept them as

a preciou s hoard ; and, if a Chriitian h ad know ingly m et

w ith One of fuch pieces , he w ou ld ra ther have throw n itaw ay as accu rfed m oney , than have la id it by as a va luablereliqu e or curiofit In other places a lfo arefil ew n fom e of

thefe pretended {fiver pieces , am ong w h ich , fom e are of

kw ifl: coin ; that nation having, after its fuhjeétion to theom ans, fifl l reta ined the privilege of coining m oney . For

m erly it w as not a m a tter of foch profit as it has been m ade

in m odern tim es ; and on tha t accoun t it is now m ade a

branch of the royal prerogative, w hich , to the ex clufiqn of

all perfons and com m unities , ex cept fovereigns, and tea t

cities w hich they w ere pleafed to inveii w ith fuch a privii ge .

Am ong the Jew ifll coins w ere double , f le fhekels , anda lto an half, and quarter of a [beli e]. n one fide ofthefe was genera lly Aar

'

on’s m iraculous rod, and the infer ip~

z3. 4d. halfpenny (terling.

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i s4 R C‘

M E.

A dm irable Form erly, on the m iddle a ltar w as a piéture of St. Helena

gm

!

“ °f 3" in oil colours by Rubens , in the room“

‘

of w h ich a t prefen t8 en"

{l ands an adm irable w h ite m a rble fia tu e of th a t em prefs hold-7

ing a crofs . Here a re tw o oth er pieces by Rubens , w hofe

nam e a lone {peaks the ir w orth ; one is Ch rifi crow ned w ith

thorns , am idi’t the outrageou s foldicrs , and the other a cinn

cifix ion .

A temple of In the ga rden of the convent adjoining to thi s chu rch be;Venu s . lo ing to the Ciftercian m onks , are the ru ins of a tem ple

of enu s and Cu pid, or'

Adonis ; and th is part of the c ityis fu ll of rem a ins of antiqu ities , particu larly of aqu eduéts .

I nfl ances of The celebra ted Benedictine, Montfa u con hav ing difeo°f

vered in th is convent the follow ing infcription

”m “

ANML INGRAM /s HOMINE NVLLVM EST.

Has inferted it in h is D ia r ium Ita licum , and fuppofes th a t it

m ufi be read d umbLiberta . Bu t I m u ft do th is learned m an

the jufi ice to ow n , tha t he w as the fit to difcover h is erro r ,ihew ing, tha t the infcription w as no other than the trite fen -l

tence, Anim a l e i . e. There is no

creature m ore ungratefu l than m an ;7

a nd thi s correction byhis ow n h and I m e t w ith in the book w hich he w a s plea fed

to prefen t m e w ith fom e tim e ago. I m ention th is on ly to

ibew how perfons of the grea teft erudition m ay be fom e tim e s

m iftaken in very com m on and obv iou s th ings . W e h a v e

another infiance of th is in th e fam ou s Sa lm afiu s , w ho, in a

printed w ork of h is , h ad m en tioned Jeru fa lem a s the place of

Chrif’t’s n ativity , ofw hich overfight, how ever, h e had tim e ly

notice by one w ho h ad feen the ibeet, bu t w as no‘

grea t

fcholar ; and the paffage w as a ltered accordingly .

T he church di S . Dom en ico e Sii’to a l Monte Magn ano:pol i, belongs to the Dom inican nu ns , w ho a re poii

'

efled of a

p iece of filver tilTue of a confiderable va lu e . On the h igha ltar is a pictu re of the Virgin Mary , pretended to be pa in t

ed by St . Luke ; and over it the (l a te of glory in heaven byCan u ti . If the proprietors of th is church h ave directed fo

m any piou s n uns of their order to be pa inted in th is pa radife ,fo

,that l ittle room is left for others , it {hould not give a n y

offence, as they have liberally pa id the a rtifi for th is honou r.T h e firft chapel on th e ri ht-h and w a s defigned by Bern in i

and An tonio Raggi h as fliew n his adm irable fkil l here , intwo w hite m arble fi a tues of Ch riit and Ma ry Magda le n .

On each tide {l ands a m arble pil lar of a fa ngu ine red,”

w or tli

obferving,

1 86 R.

0 M‘ E .

nufance to the publ ic tobe covered w ith bu ildings, qr con.

‘

vetted,into pleafant orchards and vineyards of his giving

a m ore advantageous profpeét. to the noble conven ts of St.Francis, St. Benedict, and the w ater-gate, by open ing neww ays and enlarging others in

‘

an even direction , and of h isc om both avenues

’

to the Fabrician br i e, a nd

m aking eps to the channel of the Tyber, m u ch

to the convenience of fi rangers, m ariners, a nd the citizens

, in general , the fena to and people ofRom e ra ifed th is m o

num ent, and w ith al l happinefs, offering th eir p ublic

prayers and fuppl ica tions to God for his holinefs’s w el fa re,

1 5 1 1 3

0

0

0

0

A

fi

fl

a

h

s t , 03m In the church of St. Jam es of the incu rables , fo'

cal led fromm o des? In the hofpital belonging to it, are fevera l good pictures a ndcurabili . in the fecond chapel , on the ri

gh t-h and ofthe en trance, is a

fine bafl b-rd iw o on one piece 0 m arble, w h ich reprefents St.Francis di Paolo v ifiting the lick.

St .Giacom o St. G iacom o fcofl’

a Cava lli derives

Ch iefa del

Bel larm ine's m ine 5 two

horfes , w h ich , in the tim e of the em refs He lena, were bringg a cart load ofreliques from St. (groce di G ierufalem m e to

Si. Peter’s church , {topping here and as it is pretended,neither w hippin nor any other m eans cou ld m ake them go

a fl ep further .

gTh is w as looked upon as a div ine intim a tion ,

and a ccerdinglr

y , here the w hole load of fictitious rel iqu es

w as depofited 3 am o w hich .a re, the Prone defigncd for the

{acrifice of Ifaac, 21 1251 8 1“ on w h ich Chriftflood w hen am ongthe

”

doétors in the ternple , fom e of the hol ea rth from Jerufa lem . and, w ha t is {till m ore valuable, om e drops of ou r

The Cbigfa del Gig/ix , or Jefuits church , is one of the finefito all Rom e ; the a rch itecture being defi

oned by Jae . Barozzide Vignola , w as conducted by Jae . della Porta , and chieflya t the eXpence of cardinal Alex . Fa rnefe, a grea t patron of

the Jefuits. EThe j bccia m , or fron t, is ofM a rtini , a kind offree-{tone found nearT ivoli, adorned w ith Ion ic and Corin

th ian pillars ;f -and the doors a re of a very folid beau tifu l

wood t , brought from Arnerica for tha t pu rpofe .

On the ri h -hand of the h igh a lta r lies cardinal Boll a r

ita tnes reprefenting Rel'

ion and W ifdom , bym onum ent. Pietro Bernini, {l and on h is tom b. n th e al tar-piece a re

fourpillars of girdle antico, and a,good piece of the circum

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R 0 M ’ E i

th e front of th e altar-table , on fefl ivals , is cbvered w ithl id filver, bu t has an apertu re th rough

'

w hich the coffin a nd

rad iant nam e m a be feen . A l ittle above“

the tabl e tw o

gi lded angels hol'

d St , Igna tiu s’s m otto, 1 1d m aj orem D e i

To the grea ter glorpofGod,

’of Iapi: la z u l i .

On th e al tar-piece four flu ted pil ars , w hich , ex clufiv e o f

the pedefia ls and capitals , w h ich are of gilt bronze, a r e

t feet in height, and three feet in diam eter in

pa Thefe large pillars are in laid with la p i sla zu li let in gil bronze, and give the altar a m olt fuperb a n d

m agnificent appea rance . On the a rchitraves a re globu l a r

pieces of is lazu li, tw ice as la rge as a m an’s head. T h is

fione , by om e accounted the cya m eum of th e ancients , i s fo

difficu lt to w ork, and w h en i t is of a vivid bright blu e a nd

wi thout flaws , of fuch a great va lue, th at one cannot bu t be

a ll onilhed at the profu lion of it in th is ch apel . Grea t T a r

tary affords the be ll [apir lazu li ; bu t the J efu its , by m e a n s

of their m illions a nd colon ies , collect it from a l l parts of thew orld. Over the a lta r is a pictu re painted on wood, w h ichcan be low ered, and then ex hibits a filver fl a tu e of St .

'

Igna tiu s Loyola , w hich {l ands beh ind it ; the drapery of w h ichis gilt, and even enriched w ith pearls and diam onds . T h e

m odel w as perform ed by Pierre le GrQs , a Frenchm an , a nd

G iov . Fred. Ludovici ca ll and com pleated it. The he igh t

of it is fix ty Rom an palm s, and,

it w eighs fi x hu ndred

nds : Near it a re three other filver im ages . On each fideof the a ltar is a fine rou p ofl arge fi atues , i n Cm m a rble .

One reprefents the hriltian rel igion defiroying idolatry , a ndas a fymbol , tra m ples under foot a book, on the back ofw h ichare thele w ords , Cam e: t oques Am ida Xam . Idolatry isreprefented by a ferpent blafi ed w ith l ightn ing, and nea r i t isthe kingof Bungo in Japan , fubm itting h im felf to the Ch riIlian faith . In another group, Rel igion is {een treading on

a' fu and herefy , w ho h as a fn ake in her hand and n e a r

her he three books m a rked w ith the follow ing titles 1 . M a r

t in Lu ther. 2 . John Ca lv in . 3. Hu lderich Zw ingel . T heform er of thefe groups is by Jean Theodon , and the l atterby Le Gros , both French artifis .

On each fide of the cha pel is a door of breccia anti c-a ,w hich is red and w h ite interm ix ed. Over thefe doors a re

th e m uhe gal leries , w ith gilded fe lloons . Indeed it is n otone vifit th a t w ill fu flice to take an accu ra te view of th isch u rch 5 the vefl ry a lfo conta ins im m enfe riches , It is fca rcenecgfl

'

ary to obferve, that this church belongs to the Jefu its,who

'

R f O M E .

who have'

alfo; adjoining to it, a

'

fem ina ry , w ith a fine library.

' Their novitia te college, and the Collegian:Rom aumhave been a lready , taken notice of, and St. Ignatius

’s church

will be defcribed in its p lace .

In the church di Gicfi eMaria a l Corfo’

are‘

ve fine paia t Chief: i fings, fix tom bs off the EBOlognetti fam ily , be ides a vefi 'ifi éfihandfom e m arble m onum ent of the canon del CornobyDom inico G u ido.

The church, ofS .

'

Gi¢feppe dc,Falegnam i, fo ca lledfxp m 3

its being bu ilt by:the Rom an joyners , ca rpenters, a nde False“

wheel-w rights, h ave ,inflitu ted a rel igious fraternity

here, has fom e good paintings , particu la rly a nativity of

Chrill by Ca rlo Mar a tti. Under this church is S . Pietro inCarcere, w hich is g ‘kindp f vault.S. Giovann i Battill s infini te is in theLateran , and fam ous 3 Giovanni

for its font, in w hich the m odern Rom ans 1 pretend, thatConllantine theGreatwas baptized by St.S ylvefier.This church is pf eil o&agonal figu re 5 a nd in the centre Of the u pis a large vefl

'

el'

ofpicrroog izzia , w ith a'

cover of gilt bronze,furrounded w ith eight

”

porph ry pillars, of a very ex traordinary lize

‘

, v iz. fifteen feet high, and} nine ;feet in circum q

ference, wh ich, as fqm e .

,pretend, w ere brought;ff0m ,BQR

tins Pilate’s p a lace a t Jem falem . The te ight p ieces of paint

mgin the cu pola ar e by Andrea Sacdhi, and the pa inting in

fflffo in the t hatch , beCedeMarat tia .Gim ignani, Gam afl'

ei.’

andMagrioni . A s to the reports of the form er riches of thisChurch

, and of Conllantine the Grea t’s im m enfe gifts to it,

there is in a l l appea rance, no more truth in it than infflxetradition of th at em peror

’s be ing baptized a t Rom e, w h ich

tellsonly on‘

the authority df a fabu lous book, intitled, 17 124:Pontificum , a ttribu ted to St. Dam

‘afu s . Every year, on Ea ;

liar-eve, the folem n i ofbaptizing T urks and Jew s is perforatedjn this churgh: f thgt ardina l vicar,On one fide of this, ding

-eh is the ehapel 95St. John the »

Baptilt, and oppbfite to it th at of St. John the Evangelifiat the entrance of both are tw o fm a il porph ry pillars , andnoWom an is adm itted, intoe ither t hgm , j thin;the fin}Chapelt p ppofite to [the font, is a large iron door, w hilaid to ha ve belongedgtp Qo

’

nll antin'

e th e Grear’s

, pa lace, and.the very chapel ni st. John the Baptill , which he is laid;

fiantine theGra t

l d a l 3

3“?l , andW fi lm ; ofthe fourth century , ; affirm , that Ca nntme the Great was . tized at the cleft of his life at Nicom edia or .

“cmofi éa ‘

31W ».

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F9“R O M E:

piece are four Corinth ian , of green and white m arble . Theform er, it is pretended, w ere taken ou t of the tw ple of Jerufa lem ,

b the order of the em or T itus , and {ea t to

Rom e others afi rm , th at Aug ca ufed them to be cat]:

out of the brazen rgflra belonging to the gal lies he took fromMa rk An thon and Cleopa tra a t the fea-fight ofActium .

O thers infill at they w ere brought by Sy lla from the tem

ple of JupiterO lym prcu s in Al i a ; w hrlfi others a a in are as

fitive tha t Dom iti an had them ca ll to adorn capitol .

file th is as it w ill , they are la id to be filled w ith holy ea rth ,find:ou t of taken ou t of Chrift

’s fepulchre, and fent from Jeru l

'

a lem by

grave.

Table of

the devou t em pref'

s Helena m entioned above.

In the chapel of St. Thom as are kept two boa rds , prea

tended to be part of the a rk of the covenant, which are in

deed fo old and decayed, that there is no know ingwhat kindof w ood they are ; and no body pretends togive any ahow they cam e hither . I t feem s the ark w as not in

cond tem ple , and there is no appearance of it on the trim

phhl arch ofT itus .

Here is a lfo ihewn a table ofodoriferous wood, at w hich'

Chan's h it our Saviour is faid to h ave infl itu ted the Lord

’s-fupper . I t

fur? "

Mofes and

A aron’s

w as form erly pla ited over w ith hlver, as is appa rent from

the fiuds here and there rem a in ing . This table is (0 (m a ll ,that [cam e tw o perfons can fit on each fide, w h ich (hews th eabfu rdity of the fuppofition . Here al l

'

o they pretend to thewthe rods ofMoles and Aaron , &c. A piece of Aaron

’s rod

is alfo lbew n in St. V itti’s chu rch , in the citadel ofPragu e

and th e Sa inte Chapelle a t Paris, glories in having the tod .or'

Moles en tire. Adjoin ing to this chapel is the ve ov e r

the entrance ofw h ich are the bulls of Clem ent VI I . an dFine pia nte Pau l V . The vefiry is decorated w ith fcu lpture and pain tof the an

nundationings, am on which , the annunciation, byMichael Ange lo,is accounte a m a il er—piece . Of above twenty popes interredin th is chu rch , here are only tg

e m onum ents ofMartin V .

of the Colonna fam ily , w h ich i of brafs and of Alex an derIII . w hich {l ands in the m iddle dfthe church, with the following infcrption :

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‘

R O M E .

popes, at their takin polfellion of‘the Lateran, w ere placedon one of thefe fioofi, or cha irs , is w ha t the popifh w riters

cannot deny ; and Mabillon m akes it an act of hum ility ,

perfectly agreeable to the words w hich w ere fung at th is cere

m ony : Safi ita t do pulv ere egm um‘ES’defi ercare erig irpaupe

rem , u t/edea t cum P r incipibm ES'

j blz'

um glor iar tw eet. Hera ifes the needy from the du ll , and the poor from the dungbill , that he m ay {i t w ith princes , and poll

'

efs a throne of

glory .

’Hence th is cha ir cam e to be ca l ledfiIIé/

Iercom r ia .

This o pinion is fupported by Bellarm ine and h im en te lli,w hich lafi has the effrontery flatly to deny tha t there is anyaperture or hole in the feat.

Story of the The indecent ex a m ination of the pope’s (ex , abou t wh ich

"

rm“w m ‘ fom e have indu lged their m erry ve in, m ay , I prefum e , be

(a ex ploded as fabu lous ; but it is not a proteitant fable :

derived from li om an-ca tholic w riters hav ing fi rfi fet it on foot, and ft cthc 300 m

qu entl in troduced it in the ir fatires on the Rom an pontiffs ;“ a wn“

w ith e s the follow ing lines of Janus Pannoniu s on Paul II .

Sa néi‘zim non pqflizm , m

Cum v ideo na ta m , P a roleficunde, tra m .

To fearch for the m arks of Pau l’s v irility is

does not a daugh ter he begot prove h is m anhood ?

w hen I fee thy daughter , I can a llow \thee to be

bu t rea lly, Pa u l, I cannot ca ll thee holy father .

’

Thefe ofMarce lli on Innocent VIII . of the Cibo fam ily ,are of the fam e tenor :

Qu id quart-i: rg/l er, [12 m a r a nfwm ifl a Ciba

Refpice untar a m , pignora term , grg em .

W hy all th is form to ex am ine w h ether Cibo be a m a le5or fem ale His m u ltitude of children evidently decide the

point .’

Storyofpope The w hole billory or fable of pope Joan pa lled current

1 9am before everLuther w as born , is unden iable from the an'

ent m anu fcrip'

ts of Anall afiu s Bibliotheca riu s and Ma rtinus

golonu s . The teli im ony of the la tter I a lfo found in an old

Book in the Utrecht l ibra ry , and a lfo in another form erlybelonging

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R 0 M Es

hav'

at a vait a cpence, caufed thisw hich? by the ca lam i of the tim es, had

been broken , and lay deeply buried under the ruins of the

Circus Max inm s, to be dug up and rem oved hither w ith

im m enfe labou r ; and h aving refiored it to its ancient fi

gu re, wi th reat ex afi nefs and fltill , be confecra ted it to

the invincib e crofs, in the year of Chriil , 1 588, and of

his pontificate the fourth .

’

There infcriptions , it is plain, are of no older da te thanthe tim e of Six tus V. bu t the infcription on the ancient

pede’ta l , collected by Fontana , from the fragm en ts of it,

{ew e to be tranfcribed, and run thu s

Pam'

s Opu s m ufi ue fim m tibi, RomAg ra/iu s ton Corp

/Ia ntiw orbe r eceptaEt quad nulla tu lit fella : nee videra t a fa r,Condidz

'

t, a t cla r ir ei g quet dona tr ium pbir ;

Genitor cagnomini: Urbi;

Redditu r , a tqa e adity

Vifl or ov'

a m uniqu e [0

Pr ina'

pis, U m unu s c

To thee 0 Rom e, Confiantius Augu ftus, acknow

led ed the overeign g

of the w hole w orld, offers th is adm it ab e obel iflt , not para le lled in any part of it, tha t h is giftsm a

yequ al h is viélories . His fa ther in tending it for the

em elliihm ent of the city , to which he had given h is own

‘

R‘

O Mt E .

“

ea r .

5 nam e , caufed it to be taken down from its na tive rock at

Thebes bu t his greatell concern w as abou t the rem ova l

of th is ll upendous m a fs, a work reported to be above an

hm {ki ll and force . Bu t Confia ntius , the world’s

h lover n , know ing that co and

m gm t all iflicu lties , bega n the a rgons enterprize ;com m anded h is huge fragm ent of a m ou nta in to m ove

lom é pa rt of the w ay by land, which w as afterwa rds , w ith

infini te labour and art, em ba rked, and conveyed fw ifter

tha n th e w ind, w h ile the [ea foam ed, under th e incum

ben t load, to the Hefperian lhore ; a ll the people behold

ing, w ith am azem ent, the va ll: ga lley on w hich it h ad

been tranfported. Bu t the Rom an {l ate bein at tha t tim e

harrafl'

ed by the tyrant Taporus , this gift 0 th e em peror

lay a long tim e neglected, and the ra i ling of it up w as

om itted ; not from contem pt of fuch a noble m onum ent,

bu t as a th ing im praél icable, till now , the lavage tyrant:

being fl a in , as if again ra ifed from the quarry , am idll the

acclam a tions of the people , the lorious trophy rears its

1 head, and procl aim s the illuitr'

ous conqueror’s glory ,

as cing equ al to m any trium phs.’

On the of the piazza or fqu are, is the Lateran hofpital , a Lateran

very h and(om e and w ell-contrived bu ilding, w here (om e“f?“

hundreds of patients , of both lex es, are ca refu l

lya ttended,

and com m odiou lly lodged . On this piazza is al 0 tobe (een

the fi gIa fini te , or the fl a irs faid to have been thofe in Pon

tiu s Pila te’s houfe, w h ich Chrilt frequently afcended, before

he w as led aw ay to be crucified. This relique is pretended

to have been lent from j erufa lem by the devou tHelena ; yetit lay , w ithou t be ing m u ch regarded, in the old La teran

palace , till by Order of Si x tu s V . i t w a s brought h ither and

placed in an edifice ere&ed for it by Fontana .

A t the top of th efe M rs is the j im fi um j bnfi or um , or a

[m a l l chapel ,”

in w hich abundance of reliques, be longing to

the Lateran palace, a re depol ited. T h e m olt rem a rkable

Of th efe is the sm oua x u gon’omn r

, or the piétu re Of Jefus Chrifl'

,Pieter

-e of

begun , as is pretended, by St . Luke , and fin ifhed by an an(

I

z

‘

h

fittb

dt .

ffOfl l w hence i t is c a lled a x fl pon'om

'rov 3“ f. e . not m ade

3

“

J oan an

with hands .

’An perfon fcrupl ing to pay the requ ired

adora tion to this pi e, cannot obta in a l igh t of it ;r nor a re

wom en ever adm itted beyond the iron gra te w here it is kept.

Mahom et, in h is placing the w om en before the w indow s of

paradife, has ibewa the fam e feverity towa rds a fex ,'

wh ich is 12232?“1°

reckoned

202 R O M E .

reckoned to be pretty w arm in its devotion . To enqu ire

into the cau fes of th is feverit

yis fore ign to m y pur ofe .

Indeed, th at fex had no fin a l (ha re in the dea th of ohn

the Baptiit'

; bu t the w om en a re ex cluded from (evera l holy

pl aces , w hich have-no m anner of relation to the reliques of

j ohn the Ru ptiliA grea t num ber of reliques in th is chapel , m olt of w h ich,

if not a ll , a re a s fictitiou s as thole m entioned in the note

below t , are kept u nder the h igh al tar,on the arch itrave of

which is this pentam eter verle

Non efi in tota j i mfl iar orb: locus .

t The world affords no holier place than th is.’

An 41m This altar is looked u pon to be fo facred, th at th e pope“ hm m " h im felf is not to celebrate m a fs at it there be ing tw o other

fifififioth chapels contiguou s to th is for that pu rpofe .

not prefu m e S . G iovann i Battiita decol la to, or the chu rch of the de~

2? f

ar

gl afs

coll a tion of St . John the Baptifi , is fu ll of fine pa intings ,

3gw }g321”and a ll its a ltars are enriched w ith fine orienta l m a rble . T he

colla te . beheadin of John the Bap tilt, on the high al tar, is a m a il er

p iece of iorgio Vafari . In the veiiry, or ra th er in the

ora tory , is a ood piece of the defcent from the crofs by G i

acom ino del onte though I am a l ittle doubtfu l , w heth er

the body of a m ap , after hanging fom e hou rs ou'

a crofs ,w ith the arm s itretched ou t, and a lready beginn ing to cool ,

No w om en are adm itted into the fubterraneou s chapel at

in France ,‘

W here M ary Magda len’s iku l l is depofited , and num berlel

‘

s

other chapels in pepilh chu rches . I t i s the Opinion of the vu lgar, th a t

5

:iii]w om an w a s to enter l

'

uch prohibited places the w ou ld d mp dow ne

1 Henry Stevens relate s, that a t Jerufalom w a s ihewn a finger of the

Holy Gholt ite frelh ; one of the Cherubim s na ils l'

om e drops offwea t from t xc a rch-an el Michael ; a ray of the {ta r w hich

°

ded the

three kings, CGJ’c. The genedifl ines of Vendom e pretend a l 0 to have

one of the tears ibed by Chrilt at Lazaru s’s grave . It w ere to be w i lh ed ,

that fom e im politions of this kind had not crept in am ong‘

the Lu thera n s ,w ith regard to the reliqu es at E ifleben and other pl aces . This fuperltitiou s fondnefs for fuch th ings is a w eaknefs of fo long a itandi tha t it

feem s to h ave been in vogue in rem ote antiqu ity ; for fom e of e (tonesw hich A m phion had brought together b his m uhe, his and his brotherZ eth u s

’s m onu m ents , w ith m any fu ch fictitiou s th ings , be ing lhew n to

no (m a ll advantage . Pau fan ia s , lib. iii. l'

a ys , th at in a tem ple at Sp arta ,w a s referved, w ith the grea tell care, the (hell

‘

ofone ofLeda‘

s eggs , afterthe oetu s had m ade i ts w ay out of it.

I wou ld

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S .

della Cariti .

S . Gregorio

R O M E;

In em ery of Fra neifca Call as-iris

ofRiccardi, who aocom any ing her hu iband, the illufi ri

ous Gabriel m arqu is de icca rdi to Rom e where he res

fided'as am bafl'

ador from Ferdinand II . great duke ofT ut'

s

can to their hol inefs’s pope Innocent X. and Alex ander

VIZ) during the fpace of eleven endea red herfel f to

the w hole city by her devotion, bil ity , and the uniform

practice of every virtue, til l this ex cel lent lady, equ a llybeloved ofGod and m an , w as taken aw ay from m ortal s to

of the blefi’ed fpiri

‘

ts above, w ho glory in fuch a

In the Sacchetti chapel is a brafs crucifix , defined l

gBrefciano, and call by Paolo San-Quince, fa rm or! v i

fine pieces o‘

f fcu lpture in m arble. Here is alfo a m olt v a

luable paintin on a board, of Chrifi praying in the garden inan ny , before h is pa llion .

h e ch u rch of the two m artyrs , John and Paul , has a

beau tiful pavem ent, and fom e rem arkable pillars oforiental

grana te, and one oforiental a labafter, w h ich {lands near the

altar . Here are l ilrew ife {om e good pi&ures .S. G irolam o de ll a Cariti is rem arkable for its fine pieces

of fculpture ; articu larly thofe a t the high altar, and in the

chapels of St.gilippoNeri and di Sparta . The ch am ber in

w hich St. Filippo Neri lived near thirty-three years, is con

verted into an oratory . St. Jerom , a t the high altar, re

ceiv ing the facram entsjufi before h is dea th, by Dom enich ino,is accounted one of the belt pieces in a l l Rom e.

The church of St. Gregory the Great, on m ount Ce lio,h as a fqu a re portico, w ith fevers ] m onum ents in it ; pa rti~

cu larly that ofOberti Re paroli, a Genoefe noblem an, and a

bronze wa re/rm of ou r Saviou r entering Jerufa lem ridingu pon an afs .

St. Andrew’s chu rch, under th is, h as already been fpoken

of the other chapel or church in th is piazza , is that of St .Sylv ia , m other of St. Gregory . Her fia tue in it is done

gyFranciofini , and the roof of

‘

it w as painted by Gu ido

lieni .

In the oratory ofGregory the Great; is to be feen theGregory the m arble table, a t w h ich that pope u fed ever

}, day to fe ed

Great.twelve poor m en , till once a th irtienth oine thefe guefi s ,w ho, it is fa id, w as found to be an angel. F rom tha t tim e

h e had a lw ay s th irteen of the poor at his table , which is {til lthe num ber ofpoor priefls , on whom the pope waits at table

3

on

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208 R O M E .

The church ofLuigi de’France/f, or St. Lou is ofFrance,

has a very fiately porta l , and a grea t num ber of va lu able

pa intings cf ially fom e pieces by Gu ido Rheni, and Do

m enich ino. fic

the focond chapel, on the right-hand, is the

afl’

um ption of the Virgin Mary , over the great a ltar , byFrancefco Baffano. Am ong fevera l other na tives of Fran cebu ried here , are the cardinal d

’Ofl

'

a t, and Henricus de la

Grange, m arqu is d’Arq

'

i ian , the fa ther ofMaria Cafim ira ,queen ofPoland, w ho died in the year 1 07.

S . Luca in S . Martina , on the cam po accino, w as bu i ltfrom a very beautiful defign of Piotro di Cortona . A t e m

p le ofMa rs is (a id to have flood here , and the body of S t .

Martina w as alfo found on th is fpot. The fam ous p ictu reof St.Luke pa inting the Virgin M a piece ofRapha e l

’s ,

{l ands at the h igh a ltar, w h i ch is 0 w hite m arble, a nd e x

qu ifi te workm anlh ip ; Men hino’s fiatu e of St. Ma rtina

a lleep on the al tar is no fin al ornam ent to it.

T he firft chapel on the right-hand is a m ailer-p iece of

Lazaro Baldi . Here is another picture by the fam e h a nd,reprefenting the m artyrdom of St. Lazaru s , w ho is fa id to

have been of the pa inter’s profefl ion , as w ell as h is n am e

{ake Baldi is a lfo buried in this chapel , w ith the fol low

ing epitaph

In Iabaribm ts’

D am vener i:

M life’from you th to old a c has been fpent in conti

nu al abou ts and w atch ings . fiow bein dead, I p a tie nt

ly w a it til l m y change com e . Lord, w thou com eftaga in, I pray thee condem n m e not.

’

Lower down are thefe w ords

Qw’

Laza rum

f tfilfi itd m e,

Erj abe are m a in ad ta,Ut in Am man: benedim m re.

T hou ,

R O M E .

Thw gz’

whp didit m im izam s, when put l‘lfipd, from

the g ra ire, reife m e -fitom corruption, and rece ive m e impthe p m nfions of I m ay for . ever pra ife

According to Prifcian, i t {hou ld he ‘bm edicam’

tibi but

the purefi'

Latin risn ot a lw ays found on arm am ents .

From ‘ the chu rch is . a .defcent b a pair of itaira into ta

vault, w here . is . to be [een the fo ow ing: infcription near

Some litera ti, whozhad ra ther venture on the w ildefl:conjééturét lthan own their ignorance, have given

‘

this inter

pu tation of it Tha t Gaudentius w as an architect em

pla yed b the em peror. Vefpafian to build a thea tre , who

prm nift rlylto befiow a m ity on h im as a reward ; bu t w hen

the work'

w as com pleated, the tell na

'

tha t Gaudentius

was inform ed '

againfi m'

a ChriKizn, and imm ediately ex :sented.

’ °

To . ive th is th e m ore pla ufible appearance , bythe em peror Veafian they do not m ean Flavius or Titus,but the bloody .Dom itia.n . This in terp retation neither.

certains the im port ofthe words , nor reéi ifies the w retchedconfiruétion and orthografi iysn I . th ink, it m ight be con

neéied thus , and m u te agreeable to fyntax , . Si c. Sic png -b

miafem m'

, Vqfl afid m fi i n gubi r iv ita : quam prowfyfi 3. gitrice na e e x a m

“

, [cilicet l rcbitefl a, prem iara s es m am f . 0P rmmf t qm

'

dem i/ie l mpam tor a t Cbr i/iy:am id tibi der; qw

'

adiud perm it tbea tm m ; in £0310. qqd

pnafl itit, ex cellm f ms largietur Cbrij avg.

Are thefe thy rew ard, crue l V efpafian? Is dea th the t e

com pence thou befiow efi on the a rch itect, the a u thor p f

thy'

glory ? G audentius rejoice Tha t em peror indeed

prom ifed tthee reat‘

things , bu t Chriflz, w ho ha s preparedfor .

.

thee a m an on in ha ven , w il l give thee grea ter ; and

therefore {what the e m peror did not perform , Chrifi w ill

abundandy m a lte '

up to thee .

’

Oppofite to th is infcription is a m onum ent to'

the m em oryof Peter Beretini, a noblem an of Cortona ,~ who w as both

3 painter“and arch itect. Befides r fevera l charitable bene

VOL. II. P factions,

309

\2 m ..R D

“

M E .

fa il-ions, he cbfifiituted'

this chureh ahia heir. si n one sof‘ thel l

'

ubtet’rah eou s chapels are fa m i ne m arble pi llars, ffom e

bf wh ich w ere found in the ru ins of. the ancien t ntom plo of

Ma rs . The a labaflter be

g-relieve a t the altar, reprefen ting

the W rinity , is thevw oi? . of iAlex a nder

°Albani . tN ecn th e

w all are fou r white m arble 'fi a tues'

of' the xfaints Theodora ,Dorothea , Euphem ia , and Si bl fl fi u ; J n i the tgneat toha pe l

contiguous to! th is . lafi r a re t fom e sfino~

pieces ~0f~fim lptu re ,and fom e pu rple pill ars , fi realted w ith w h ite, ofib

'

agp'

d m

or ienta le. The jafper {brine of St. Martina under th e a lta ris of a deep red. The d bario; or tahcc le, on the a l ta r

h as two ex cellen t bnfiw diw o’s oforienta lm l ahafler, by C of

m o Fancel l i, and on -one ftde x a p iebe 'of a m a rh a fp a n

long, and fou r'

. inches abroad ; vIa anothe r . ch apel on th e

right, is an old Grecian pictu re ofil uhe V irginm uch dam aged. Under th e a lta r is an urn , or

~of fine black andlwh'

ité iSieilian ~a lhbdfl enA cadem y 0

"

room s,etrici, of the em afl

'

a cre . of the innocents ; a'

w om am w ith . a

jéove-on -heri -hand in n m iniature, (hy ilhofa lba , . va lwed i a t a

ih undred‘

p ifioles ; St. J erom ,:1bl u looMaratti, «a nd

'

is t .

"Magdal en , by Ped rgin i . On fthe jwdl l thnng i the n l le s t or“

hints of the“

acadfifl ay by one of w hit h tritnis orderedy t h a tm om e

'

m ber he adm itted '

w ho x is underathirty y eats of a ge .

“In:the uppercapa rtment, or xthe

‘

fchool, a nd t the np ifi m'

e s . o f

ccelebrated painters~here is aifo a t

« titude very m uch‘ like th a tvofi'

theWm :We ;M in-h u t w i th

”the ghlden apple in her h and . xfl eseq'

s h kewife '

fi ew n .Ra

phae la d’iUrbino

’s“. iku l l .w ith th e ,faine wonfea iundd dt :

aé . a re

on'

h is m onum ent at’

the gx otonda n m i

StoMafk" In St aMarlt’s'

church is tor be tfneri s an b ld ype ph a i

figfih

fi powbich is

‘

ass a ssin. l ike t hofe cha ie xm m s im ther H a ga n .

HThe: fcu lptureaon cardina l Viidm azm i

’s m om m nt zis .hi o f. .

m o Fa neell‘i ;w and ; th e fine tom b afl raga d in o ,

w here the j brcopbagu s is m ade 0 a q'

m gle zp ieee izifi itm x c hfione; is th e lWork of*Raggi.

'

:Here. - a.neatsuo o thiir i qid n um eme Worth“flow ing, nann ly , t hofe ofg ardinali deB ii ol is ,

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R 0 M E .

Spir itu: afi ra tenet.

His body lies in the earth , h is fam e flies through the

world, h is fou

On Sa lvator Rofa , the celebrated Neapolitan

is this infcription

D . O. MNeapolitn nm ,

To God the greatefi and heft ofBeingstf Salvator Rofa , a na tive ofNaples , inferior to no painter

of his age, and equ al to the befl poets of al l ages , was

depofited here by h is afll iéted fon Auguftus . He died in

the fifty-ninth year ofh is age, on the 1 5th day ofMarch,

16733

Oppofite to th is is a fine m onm nent, in m em ory ofCarloMara tti , w ith a la rge porphyry nengi in w hich h is bow els

are‘

depofited. .The i nfcription is £18 . follow s, and {hew s

that grea t geniefes are not akwaya l'

ufiiciently'

gu a rded againfi

the van ity offelft-love :

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o R'

0 M

w ith ilding. Here are‘

nli'

o forty grand pillars , befides others

of a er kind.

Monum ents On the left-hand, ate ntering the . chu rch , is = the fuperb

m onum ent ofc ardina l Toledo ofCoidova, . a nd on the right

is that ofClem ent Merlini further on is a m elebrated . pic

ture by Gisrgnimo Ma tiani, m pm fent-ing .Lazaru s t ilingfrom h is grave ; and a l ittle fu rther is the tom b of the «ar

till him felf, w hodied in 1 660. In the Patrizzi chapel l ies

the firfi founder of th is churehdn a porphyry rlhrine. In the

vei’try adjoining, befides other g ood pieces of pa in ting a nd

k i i lprure, _is a m arble m onum en

'

t, by Be rnini,:of AnthonyNigrita, ambaflador from the kin of003150. On th e left

ha nd fiends31 bra fs fiatue of Pa ul on . .a m arble pedefi a l ,by Paolo Sang u irico. .

a Parm efan g . and opmfite to it tha t ofPh ilip IV, of Spain, . in fi cknow ledgem ent m f a b enefafl ion

of {our thoufand 'duca ts'n y ear; payable to‘this c hurch . out

of iheNeapolitan revenues. «On the a lta r is an'

adm irable

piece o‘f[culpture by Bern ini, of. the a llinnption ofthe Vir-B

s in arrT he. nex t in order

gzgflffim Sagra m m to, .or

on the -

arch before j he

$1335 .

by h adrea , d,

’

Hit tom b. his \Chfl l ‘was built by Six tus .V . w hofe m onum ent, byFontana , ; is worth feeing .

-Som e of the pilla rs a re zof a

very fine gregn; m arble ; and . the flam e of the pope w as e x

s ca red byLombardo, the reprd'

enting Cha rityand J ufiice Fiam m ingo, the

'

coronation '

of. the pope byAnton ioVa l dldo, and the other im ages of

? St. Francis, St .

An thony , &C. by em inent hands , and a l l are of m arble .

Tha t of Six O polite to th i s-is that m hble

‘

m nnum ent erected by S ix

tu s to h is benefactor P ius V . where the . ild ll of th e [cu lptors have adm irably feconded Six tu s

f

s titude . . The w h item a rble {ta tue of Piu s is, by .

'Lednardo arzana, a nd under it

l ies his com ic in a (brine ofgiltbra i'

s I {hal l not pa rticu l arly i

'

pecify jthe m any ex quifitepaintings and variety of

‘

relique s

to be (een in this chapel .

a wn, Mk,The nex t chapel is tha tfi f

'

the annunciation, in -w hich iss . s . annu n to be feen,

-a,bea u tifu l m arble m onum ent of. cardina l Coufa l

CW vo, w ith-mine m ofaic

Before the tr ibune ,old tabern acles of an unm w non h ei ht 5. . ih one o f wh ich

is kept, as they pre tend, Ch ili’s era e, w ithin a lilver cafe

fet w ith jews ls, being .the:vgi£t .of Phil ip V o f. Spain. A.

tr ibum z

R 0 M E . a zr

tr ibwia is properly a c ivil edifice ,“being probabably the “m in: of

place w here the ancient tribuna ls or cou rts of‘

j’uftice w ere

held andnot a few fuch edifices were, w ithou t a ny greatal teration , converted into chu rches.

On one lide of the tribuna’

is the m onum ent of pope N i“Pawn ”

cholas IV . T he‘

a rchiteétu re'

is by Fontana ,‘

and the temp: ya

m s "

tu re by Sarzana ; and the two im ages nea r the pape are

Fa ith and Prudence . Oppofite‘

to'

t h is , and on the ri ht,from th e e ntrance of th e church , is th a t of Clement I of

which Rinaldi was the architetft, the pope’s im age is by

m ’

Dom en icoGu idi, that of Faith by Fancell i, and Char ity byFerra ta . Nearthe high altar is

,a very rem arkable pillar of

black and wh ite m arble . canopy over it is fupported

by fou r porphy ry pillars . The tribuna is a ll over decora ted

w ith piétu refqu e m ofa ic, by Turrita . On th e other’

fide ofthe chu rch , tow ards the m a in entra nce , is the i ncom para

ble cha pel of Paul V . facing that'

of Six tu s V w hich forfcu lpture and m arble decora tions , the w al ls being covered

w ith them , h as not its equ al in a ll Rom e . T he two papaltom bs here, l ike thofe in Six tus

’s chapel, are adorned w ith

pilla rs of green m a rble . Pau l V . is on h is knees , and w as

done by Scilla , the bq Carlo Madem o, the co

ronation of the pope by tio, the im age on the

r igh t-hand by

sVa lfoldo, leftah and'

by FraneifcoStati, and the two others, St . Bafil and Dav id w ith Gol iah

’s

head, a re the'

uifite'

workm anfh ip of N icholas Cordier.

On the other

e

lide a lfo is the beau tifu l tom b of Clem ent Of Clem ent

VIII . w here h e is reprefented giv in the benedlétion to the V 11 1 .

people . The fiatue is by Scilla hi a lvicino, Marian i, and

Moch i joined in the bqflé-rd iw o’r ; the corona tion of the pop :

w as done by Bernini, and theother im ages by Va lfoldo and

Butio. The ex cel lent fi a tues of'Sr. Bernard and the h igh

priefi Eleazar in h is pontifica lia’

, w ith‘

a cenfor in h is hand,near this m onum ent, is the work of

'Cordier . In”

this ch a

pel are fevera l fine pieces of pa intin by the m ofi celebra tedm ailers , fi

’“

G—mfidd'

Khen i, L'

ari'

fr nco, Bagl ioni, Arpino,

At the a ltar are four flute’

d‘

colum ns of orienta l JafperpvrrginMaw ith decora tions of gilt brafs the corn ices , pedefia ls , andE

”gp’a ‘“

y (L uke.are of agate and afper. In the center, between

thefe fou r pillars , is the p icture of the V irgin Mary, w ith

Jefa s fitting on one of her arm s , (a id to be pa inted by St.

Luke, in a fra m e of la is lazu li ; and over her head hangs

a crown of gold curiche with jewels . On the front 0

21the

tar

A lta -00 1515 1 52.

Vefpafian to Peace, when the ewsw ere conquered, andthe public tranqu ility efiabl M ,

'

b order of ou r

m unifioen'

t foy ereign Paul V .

“

removed to is col fpicuou sthe greater ornam ent of the

'

Liberian church ,w ho refiored it to its form er beauty a nd fplendor, and de

dicated it . to the blell'

ed Vi rghw from whofe wombfprungthe Prince of true peace ; hea lth ereéted a fla m e of brafs

to her on the top of this colum n , in the yea r of Ch i-ill;

a nd in die ninth ya i p fhis pontifica tea’f

On the pedefl al a re two eagles'

and two dragons , w h ichfeem -to fu pport the colum n . F rom this piazza ,

'

or fqu a re ,a fi reet leads in a direéi line to th e Lateran

'

chu rch .

On the other lide of the church of S. Maria Maggiore,tow ards S. Pudentiana , is an Egyptian,

obeliik, found at theentrance of the e m peror Augu ll us

’s tom b, W hich Font

‘

ana

erea ed here by order of Six tus'

V.

~

Another obel iik, ex actlyrefem bling

-th is, lies in the fam e w here this la but

broken into feveral pieces . The er is forty-tw o Om an

feet high , ex clufive of the ba'

fe e foui' l ides ofthe follow ing infcriptions

J agufi r'

Pa re

1 11 . D

‘b s d r

'0 v c 0

,

o o

v O i c“.

b a ‘ J

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2 26 R O M E.

and m onum ents. Adjoining to it is the Capella della Ann unzia ta , in w h ich is to be feen the tom b of Urban VII.

w ith h is fi atue, by Am brofro Malvicino. In the Strozzi

chapel are two fine bra fs angels on Am brofro Strozzi’s m o

h um en t, by Landi . Not far from the high al tar is a pis s:

reprefen tin Ch ril’r ca rry ing h is crofs , as big as life , ofw hite

m arble . (gne of the feet, w h ich is covered w ith gilt bronze,is often devou tly kill ed by the popu lace ,

'

and the

h igh ly val u ed, be ing the w p rk ofMicha el Angelo.

Monum ents In the choir of th is chu rch are the noble m onum en ts ofof Pore

'

so Leo X. and Clem ent VII . T he fl atu s of the form er is byRaph ael da Monte Lupo, and that of Clem ent by Giov.

Baccio Big io bu t the other ornam ents ofboth tom bs are byBandinell i. In another part of the chu rch is Pau l the fourth

’s

tom b, by the tw o Ca ll ignola’s and tha t of cardinal Pim en

tel by Bern in i . The bea u tifu l fi atues a t the m onum ent of

cardina l Bonell i are the w ork ofHercu les Ferra ta .

st , 9 0m g About th irty yea rs ago a prela te w as for bu ilding , near

a ic'

a du pe]. the vef’cry , a chapel in honou r of St. Dom inic ; bu t beingrequ ired to difcha rge his architeét, w hofe w ork w a s thought

unw orthy of fuch a place, he ave over h is defign , w hen

only e igh t black and w hite m ar le pillars had been fet uphow ever, it-w a s not long before Benedié

’t XIII . zea lou s for

the honour of h is order, had the chapel fin ifhed, and in a

fuperbm anner . 3In the Capella del Rofa rio is a fine m a rble

groupe of the Virgin Mary , the ch ild j efus , a nd John the

baptift. Clofe to a p illa r on the other fide of the church

is a tom b of the bea tifiedMaria Raggi, by Bern in i, w ith

her bufio in bronze and on the veftry altar is a fine crucifix , by Andrea Sacchi . T he follow ing epitaph on FrancisNeri

’s

'

tom b is , w h at can be (a id of very few

Qw’

nunqu a m in ,

cur ir confirm/it inanibur a m onFra m zfcu s New : cla ua

'itur [306 tum u le .

In th is tom b lies Francis Neri, who never w a lled histim e in frivolou s

Ca rdinal Cajetan, a Dom inican , from a princi e of hum il ity , direéted tha t he Ihou ld not be buried in t ch urch,bu t nea r the fieps a t the en trance of it .

The conv ent library , w h ich confilts of above fifty thou

fand volu m es , is very w ell w orth feeing . The length of itis a h undred com m on paces , and the breadth twenty

-fix ;Th urfdays

2 2 8 R O M ' E .

fu l fenfe of their infin ite obligation, erected th is m em oria l

in the yea r

In th is convent a re fom e good pa intings to be feen .

‘

Here

a re confi antly m a inta ined a hundred and fifty m onks , ex clu

five of foreigners belonging to the order . T he bu ildingis fix {fories h igh bu t fom e of them a re very low , w h ich

occafions th is fpaciou s edifice to m ake but a m ean appea rance .

Here the form idable cou rt ofin u ifition , w hich is deteft

cd by the fenfibl e pa rt of the aom an-catholics , is h eld

every W ednefday the genera l of the Dom in ican order a l

w ays . prefiding there nex t to th e biihops . Three congrega-

o

tidn s of the holy , or rather inferna l office , l i t eve w eek ;th e firft a t the pa lace of the inqu ilition , the fecon a t the

convent a lla Minerva , w here th e proceil'

es a re digeil'

ed into

order to be la id before h is holinefs a t the th ird congrega

tion , w h ich is held a t the pa la ce w here the pope refides .

T h e nu m ber'

of cardina l- inqu ifitors is not fix ed bu t there

a re genera lly tw elve or m ore , and thefe a re afiified by fevera l divines a nd officers . How ever, the Ital iansk now better

than to in truft th is tribuna l w ith fu ch an enorm ou s pow er

a s is ex ercifed w ith 'fu ch a rbitrary rigou r and cr uelty in Spa in

and Portuga l .

T h e abate m u ch of their {i riétnefs tow ards foreigners in

pa rticular, or any perfons belonging to ca rdinals and foreign

m in ii’ters . T he m a rqu is de Mon teleone, w hen he w as am

bafl'

ador from Spa in a t th e Hagu e , told ba ron Forftner, th a t

w hile a nephew of ca rdina l Im pfi ial i w as playi ng a t a publ ic

bill ia rd- table (if I m ill ake not a t Genoa ) one of the com

pany w as reading a long a rticle in the new s-paper a bou t

the pope the young gen tlem an h appened to m ifs h is a n ta

gon ifi’s bal l , a nd in the hea t .of the play on e is a lw ay s for

l ay ing the blam e Upon a nother, he fa id in a pet, Ave: 1 15tre fou tz? P apa w a s m efa irer perdre [e j eu You m ade m e

lofe‘

the gam e w ith you r fool ifh pop’e .

’It w as not lon er

before it reached the ea rs of the inqu ifi tors bu t th e offende r

being rela ted to a ca rdin a l w ith w hom it w as not pruden t

to qu a rre l , an accou nt of the a ffa ir w a s com m u n ica ted toh is em inence, w ho h ad it h ufh ed u p . Som e tim e a fter h e

fen t for hi s n ephew , a nd h av ing eXpre lTed h im felf en tire lfa tisfied w ith h is conduct, bid h im recollect w hether he h a da ny enem ies abou t h im , and w hether he h ad not fpoken toofree ly of the em peror, or of the king of France ? Th e fe

and other quell ions being anfw ered in the n egative, . the ca r

din a l

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R O M E .

for th e (pace of feventy years ; the c ity of Rom e, from a

gra tefu l lienfe of fo grea t a benefit, and in venera tion of

the p ie ty of th a t ex ce l len t pope , h ave , under the a u fp ices

ofCh ril’c, a nd w ith the approba tion ofpope Gregory XIII .

erected th is m onum ent in the yea r of the redem ption of

the w orld I

The chu rch itfelfw as pa rt of the cou rt of N ero’s golden

pa lace fa cing the fqu a re , w here are Il ill to be feen fom e re

m a ins of the tem ple of Peace .

In S . Ma ria de lla Pace a re to be feen fevera l celebra ted

pa intings , w h ich yet foam not to be preferved w ith the

grea teft ca re . In th e firit chapel on the r igh t-hand of the

en trance a re fou r pieces infra/ca, by Raph ael , reprefentingtw o prophets and tw o fiby l s ; and oppofi te to thefe fou r

other p ieces , by T im oteo de lla V ite d’Ui bino, w ho w a s

con tem pora ry w ith Raph ael . In th is chu rch are a lfo fom e

fine p ieces b V icenzo del Roll i , and Ba l tha fa r Peruzzi ;a n a tivity of t h rift, w ith the adora tion of the ih epherds , byG irol . Serm onetta and an a nnu nciation b Ca rlo Ma ra tti .

On th e high a lta r is one of th e pretended (isl

ven pictu re s of

th e Virgin Ma ry , by St . Luke .

‘

T he tw o m a rble fia tu es of

Peace and Jufl ice to be feen here , a re by Steph ano Ma

derno.

S. Ma ria della Pieta in Cam po Santo is pa rticu la ry fre

qu en ted by the pope’s Sw ifs gu a rd and it is a lfo their bu

5 .Maria del

Popolo.

r ia l-pla ce . O n the h igh a lta r is a p iece of the defcen t fromth e crofs , by Caravaggio ; and on the left-hand the flage l

l a tion ofCh riil , by brancefco Fiam ingo . T h e ch urch-y a rd

is fo fu l l of tom bs , tha t it w ou ld take up fom e hou rs to run

over the epitaph s ; bu t m ore of them a re to be m et w ith in

A lveri, en title d Rom a in agni fl a ta . O ne of the epitaph s isa s follow s , w h ich

‘

I h ave tran fcribed, a s the though t i s

fom eth ing u n com m on

Flares, fi fi ir rs unum ,fuzz temporal , m anj2m ;

Rides, cum nan fit far/fl a n una dies .

If a m onth w a s to pu t a period to you r l ife , y ou w ou ld

w eep and ye t you l a ugh , though you a re not certa in of

a day .

’

Concern ing the (p ot on w h ich S . Maria del Popolo fiands ,r 1 t 7

there 18 a . a m uou s tra di ti on th at the ath es ofh ere w ere bu

2 ried

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‘ 34 R 0 M E .

John Bap tiii a G illeni, a na tive of Rom e, and ra th er a

eith en of the w orld than a travel ler in .ir, having been

the a rchite& of fevetal capi ta l bu ildings to Sigifm u nd I II .Uladillaus IV . and John Calim ir I . kings of Poland and

Sw eden , carried h is good and ill qu a lities w ith him , feckingan h abita tion of a ihort dura ti on h ere, bu t an etern a l

m anfion in another world. Ta ught by the ibort- l iv’d

flowers, fru it, Ste . w hich he fo w ell im itated, that th is

life is ibort and con tinu ally running to decay ; he carved

h is im age wh ile l iving, and being fenfible he w as bu t

m eet duit, a sfhadow , he m ade u fe of {tone as a m ore du

rable m a teria l for this fpecim en of his art bu t even th is

w ill at laft be defi royed by a ll -devouring tim e . Grow n

hold by th is v iétory over dea th , he took him prifon er,

and fix ed h im in (tone. He equ al ly ex celled in pa inting,fculptu re, and a rch itectu re, fo tha t a connoiii

'

eu r w ou ld

be dubiou s for w h ich of thefe arts he w a s m oft celebra ted,w h ile h e deferyed the pa lm in a ll the three . He firfi

iketched out this perform ance as an am ufem ent in the

yea r 1 660, w hen he w a s in the 0th year of h is age,and fin iih ed the cou ffe of h is l ife 111 1 672 . Reader , h e

requ ires neither thy appl a ufe nor thy tea rs , bu t th e ba re

fa lu tation of an AVE a t thy approach , and a SALVE a t

thy depa rture.’

a

a

a

a

a

a

d

o

n

a

a

a

h

a

a

a

a

“

0

6

0

h

In the chapel of the Ch igi fam ily are {om e ood pa in t

in s , and at every corner of it is a fine m a rble tue thofe

of bj a and Jonah w ere done by Lorenzetto, from a de

fign of Raphael’s , and the tw o others w ith the m onum en t

by Bern ini . In the pom pou s chape l in th is chu rch be longing to the Cibo fam ily , a re tw elve pillars of g ia llo antico,

and l ikew ife a grea t m any pieces of fculpture in green m a r

ble, w ith three piétu res , of w hich the m a rty rdom of St .

Laurence , a nd tha t of St . Barba ra , a re ex qu ili te pieces .

Am ong fevera l other m onu m ents in this church , there is

one w ith the follow ing epitaph

8 . Maria

del la Scal e.

Tw elve

h undred and

three m a r

tyrs .

R O ' M E .0

w ife to prince Taddeo Barberino, w ho h as a lfo a fuperb

m onum ent here .

S . M aria del la Scala belon s to the Carm elite m onks .

Here is a fine tabernaclew ith uted pillars of oriental a la

bafi er, and the capita ls of fit bronze ; h ere a re alfo (om e

good pa intings by A'

rpino,gLu ca , Pa lm a , and others .

Under th is ch urch tw elve hundred and.

three m artyrs l ie

interred, being art of th e forty thou fand Chriftian flaves

em ployed in bu ilding Dioclefian 5 ba ths .

In the chu rch of S . Mar ia T ranf'

pontina are tw o pilla rs

of a very hard kind of m arble , ca lled breccia , to w h ich St.

Peter and St . Pau l are (aid to have been fafl ened w hen th eyw ere (courged in N ero

’s reign ; The al tar, am ong other or

nam ents , is adorned w ith eight pillars of Sicilian'

afper.

In the place w here a t prefent the chu rch of g. Ma ria in

T ranfievere fiands , th e ancient Rom ans h ad th eir Taberna

Mer itor ia , or an hofp ital for decayed foldiers . On th e dayof Ch rifi

’s birth a fpring of oil is fa id to have burfi forth on

the (pot w here a t prefent {l ands the h igh a ltar.

N ear St. Ferm ian’s a ltar are th ree rou nd black {tones

w ith thefe w ords infcribed on them, .Hi Iapide:pedibus M a r

ty rum a lligabantur , i . e . Thefe {tones u fed to be tied to

the m artyrs feet,’w h ich I look upon to have been an tique

w eights . The pavem ent of th is church , efpecia l ly th at

a bou t the h igh a ltar, is of fine inla id w ork its tabern a cle

is a lfo rem a rkable for four por hy pil la rs . In the tribuna

is a reat deal of m ofa ic w ord)

.

[

an the m onum ent of the

cardinal Ph ilip dc A lencon , bifhop ofOfi ia , is an ex cellen t

relieve of w h ite m a rble , conta in ing no lefs than tw en

ty hum an figures w ith th is infcription

Fram arum genitur Regum defi z'

rpe PbilippurAlenconiades Hofi im , tiru la ta s ab u rbe,Backfire Ca rdo ta ntci v irtut

‘

e relu x it

Urfua fizpplia'

burcum u lentu r m a rm ora van},I rma m illeno. C. qua ter addefi d I . fer ,

Occubuz'

t qua? l u re D efpia Virgoyue Ma ter .

Philip de Alen on , of the blood-royal of France, ca rdina l biihop of t a , a hriOht lum inary of the chu rch , a ndw hofe efl’u lgent v irtues , ince his dea th bring to h is tom bcrow ds off u pplia n ts , died in th e year 1 403, on the fam e

day of the year as the blefl'

ed virgin m other ofGod ex pired .

’

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238 R 0 M E.

churches cal led by her nam e, v iz. Madonna di lla Vittor ia ,‘

i . e . ou r lady of v ictory ,’belonging to the Carm el ite s .

T his chu rch w as form erly dedica ted to St. Paul ; bu t a n

im age of the Virgin Ma ry, w hich w rought a great m ira c lein a ba ttle a h it the hereties

'

on the w h ite m oun ta in s ne a rPrague in £

2

21 , be ing brou ht h ithe r, the nam e of it w a s

al tered. It m ay be im aginef, tha t the m onks here a re n o t

w ithou t a pié’tu re of th at m em orable action . The im age of

the Virgin Mary fi ands over the h i h al ta r, glittering w i th

gem s prefente d by the hou fe ofAu lg'ia, d x . mm en feva lue . The picture in the firlt chapel on the righ t

-h and, ofthe pen itent Mary Ma da l

'

en , is by Merca ti, and in the fe a

cond‘

chapel are {om e line pieces by Dom en ich ino, pa rtie n

l a rly the Vir in Ma holding out the ch ild Je lna to S t .Francis . In Stephen’s chapel are

'

four beau tiful gr e e n

p ill a rs and a w h ite m a rble bafi -relz’

iw o i f our Saviour in th e

m anger, w ith the {hepherds w orih iping him , a nd fom e fin e

fi atues by Dom en ico ; particu la rly one w h ich is ex trem e lynatu ral , reprefenting the child Jefu s in the Virgin

’s lap .

Adm irable InSt. Therefa’s chapel are to be feen a grea t quan tity

“at“ °f 3"of fine negro a ntica, the m arble bu ll s of fix ca rdina ls of the

C are fam ily , toge ther w ith the fia tne of th is fa int an dof an angel defcending to her, both b Bernini, who drewthe plan of the w hole ch apel. The gl int is r

jlprefen ted ly

ing in a trance, and w a s by the a rtilf him fe lf w ays: looke du pon . a s hi s m a il er-piece and a ll connoifl

'

eurs ow n it to be‘

an incom parabl e w ork . W h at ch iefly recom m ends the n ex t

chapel, befrdes a piece of the crucifix ion by Gu ido Rhe n i,are the rich orn am en ts of [apis lazu li and other gem s.

Th is. chu rch is indeed bu t frna ll, hut in fine m a rble. pa in tConvent ing, gilding, Ste . is inferior to ve few . In the conv en t,

treafu ry is an am ber im age of the irgin Mary, m ade of a

fingle piece , thou gh above a (pan .high , and w as a prefe n t

from the be nfe of Bavaria ; the face and. the. infan t Je fa sare of ivory . Here is a lfo the golden crown, prefen ted no

the m iraculou s im age of the Vi r in, by. the em peror Ferd ina nd II .

.

in w h ich , befides em era ds , rubies, arrd other p re

cions fiones , is a fapph ire of the bi ne ls of"

a hafel nu t. AP i

‘

eta‘

, or the V irgin Mary w ith a ead Chrift, in ivory , on

a ground of oriental ja fper, is a m olt exqu ifite piece . T h ePainting of ba ttle of th e w hite m ounta in nea r Pragu e again ft the Prod “W h ite infl am e is pa in ted in fou r large piéture s , and hung in th em ounta i n

fam e room », together W i th tha t. of the Ca rm el i te m onk Do

m enico di Giefu Maria , w ho is fa id to have found th is

I wonde r

S . Onofrio.

l

R O M E .

Cofm o Fancelli. The {l athe of St. Jofeph on one fide of

th e a ltar, w as done by AntonioRaggi, and tha t of St. Johnthe baptift on the oth er by He rcole Ferra ta .

0

The chu rch of S . Onofrio is not w ithou t fom e good

p a intings ; bu t w ha t ch iefly draw s a fore ign er h ither is the

fine v iew al l over the city of Rom e, w hich th is ch u rch af

fords . Tw o m onu m en ts ex actly refem bling each other

h a ve been erected here b cardina l Francifco Barberin i, one

to his preceptor Bernar o Gugl ie lm o, and the other to the

learned John Barcley . The w idow of the la tter thought it

inju riou s and degrading to her bu lband, w ho, befides his

e x traordinary learn ing, w a s of a noble fam ily in Scotland,and equ ally noble in h is difpofition , th a t h e fhou ld be placedby the fide of a w retched pedant, a s {he ca lled Guglielm o ;

fo th at {he w ou ld fa in have dem ol ilh ed the m onum ent but

th a t being ou t of her pow er, {h e found m ean s , how ever, to

ca rry off the m arble buf’co of her hufband w h ich had been

placed on it .

On the pavem ent of th is church is a flat {tone w ith this

fil ort infcription

fi rgua ti Taflz'

W1 21 bit jau nt,Hoe na (re/rim efifi u bo/pes

M D C I.

Obu t a r mo MDXCV.

Here are depofited the bones ofTorqua to T afl'

o. The

fra tern ity belonging to this church cau fed this {tone to be

la id here in 1 60 1 , tha t you m a not be ignorant of the

place w here he w as interred. file died in the year

On the w a ll near th is place is the follow ing panegyric

on that celebrated poet :

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24a

n

a

a

'

a

a

a

a

a

u

a

a

m

nv

a

R O M E .

l bx andm Gu ido, Patr icio

Lyrica:Poé'

fi: CulrorzfCelgbef‘r ifho;

Eruditofum la udt'éur, Urbi:pla n/u ,Magnorum Pr incipe”: fa m iiz

'

a f‘

flbte

a c boher‘ibm Ella/h i ,

Qm'

, a'

um inaa‘z'

m z'

8Sm i Pu ff/irisClem entir X1 .

San-i:bom z'

liis Ita lieo fa rm ing donandi:

a cerbo intercepim fi l toGlor ia potiur q

‘

uam dierum plex us ocm oa it.Lurloilz

'

éu l ex‘

Br im ipif mM ra r‘

rdolar,Tit. S . Syivgfl fi in Capite P ris/6. S . R. E .

Ca rdina lis P ious, Apoj iolia'

P a la tii

P rz efi ur,’

1 m :aeflte'

Pontifice,Ha t frag/Yaw tu

’

m tda toqa e'

cam ” ,

Ur, quad ill: inivotz

'

r baouera t,P rope Magrm Torqa a i i cine

townie/52m ,

M m m entum pofioit.Obiit die XII . m ull

YWDCCXI

In m em ory ofy flex a rtda ' Gu ido, of a noble

T icin i, illufiriou s for h is lyric poetry, w h ich im

the pra ifes of the learned, the

applau fe of the peo le ,

of

6Rom e,and the friendfh ip of re nal princes ;

’whi it h is

poetic gen ius was taken up in tranflating into Ital ianVet'fé

the hor’

h ilies of pope Clem ent XI . th is glorious W ork w as

i nterrupted by relen tlefs fa te at Tu fc u l um , w here he died

fu ll of gloi‘

ra ther than fi ll of days . L'

eW is‘, s ireof th e

princes of ill

/l irandola , titu la r priefi of St. Silv'

ei'

fer, card i

n a l of the holy Rom an ch u rch , and prefect of the apo

{tol ica l pa lace, w ith th e graciou s a pproba tion of h is hol i

nefs , erected th is m onum ent, having firlt rem oved th e

body"

and in terred it here, in com pl ia nce w ith the a rden t

w ith of the decea fed, w hich w a s to lie near the aibes of

the renow ned T afl'

o. He died on the rath of June, 1 7 1 2 ,in the furry

-th ird yea r of his age .

’

R O M E . mtgSix of pope Clem ent the eleventh

’k hom il ies , wh ich areClem enfi

th e

read on fevera l fe ii iva ls before the ca rd ina ls in St . Peter’sEl

ix ir,“

church , h ave been rendered into Ita l ian verfa by A lex ander

Gu ido, and a feventh by Bernardino Perfeéto, w h ich are

all publiih ed . T he original langu age in w h ich they w ere

del ivered wa s Latin but they are tranflated into m olt of

the Eu rOpean l r ages . The w hole nu m ber of them is

tw enty-e igh t, very pom pous im prcfiion of the Ita lian

tranfla tion w as publ ifhed a t Rom e in 1 722, in fol io ,

L’O fpitio de

’Poveri Fanciu lli di 8 .Michele aRipa G rande, p er

-9mm }

or the hofpita l for poor ch ildren , is fuch a large bu ilding,8 . Miche ie

tha t the front tow ards the Tiber is an h undred paces'

longand it is fou r itories h igh . Th is is a m olt adm irable fou n for “PM“ ,

dation for bringing u p orphans , w ho are a llow ed to choofe

their trade a nd w hen they are twenty years old, and‘

able

to m a inta in them felves, they a re difm ified from the hou fe,newcloa ihed from head to foot, w ith tw enty

-ofive fradi oi'

crow ns in the ir pocket. Ve good tapeltry'

is m ade here, Tapefiryw orkm en from the gobel ins a t Pa ris

'

having beenm nuf‘ f-‘m ‘

inv ited h ith er by great encou ragem ents . A lad w ho appears

a rem a rkable geniu s , is infiruéted in draw ing for

two or th ree years, and fpends abou t the fam e lbace of tim e

to obta in a thorough know ledge in tapefiry-wont . Into

this hofpita l are alfo adm itted old d ifabled ferva nts , and other

perfons , w ho by age and infirm ities a re incapable of ea rn

ing their bread. In the chapel the tw o fex es are feparated

from each Other by an iron grate ; it be ing Lent w hen Ivifited this hofpita l, their food confii’ted of a piece of dried

fiih , fom e cheitnu ts and bread , w ith a can of w ine . T he

houfe of correction be longing to it h as room for a hundred

and fifty perfons, where , upon fa ilure of their w eekly ta lk s ,they are put into

'

a m ach ine, w here they undergo a difci

pline, be ing tied neck and heels . Form erly they u fed to

be fcou rged w ith cords , till a lad ex pired u nder the puniih

m ent, fm ce w h ich accident, rods h ave been m ade u fe of.

Near the chu rch of S . Paolo a lle tre Fou tane is tha t of s . Paolo a lle

S. S . Vin cenzo e Anafiafio a lle treFontane, and {hou ld be“a 17 03 ‘s“ ;

Vifited a t the fam e tim e ; though , ex cepting the p ictures of5 ‘ m m “

the twelve apoitle s pa inted on the w a ll , fa id to be from

(H i 11 ofRaph ael , it fcarce deferves notice .

éppofite to th is chu rch is a very prett oé’can 'lar ch apel 3, Mar};

of S . Maria del la S t a in del Cielo, St. lll

da ry o the ladder deiia‘

30313

to heaven .

’In the tr ibuna , over St . Bernard

’s a l ta r, is

del “31“

fom e a ncient m bfa ic~worlt ;R

and the a lta r-piece reprefents

2 the

244

Ca tacom bs .

Ten thou

R O M ‘

E .

the angels carry ing the fou ls from pu rga toiy, for accord

ing to a certifica te on the a l tar, every m a s th a t is faid

here, delivers a fou l from pu rga tory . From th is cha

pe l one goes into the ca tacom bs , or fubterraneou s paf

fages , w h ich are faid form erly tohave reached not only to

St . Sebaftian , bu t even to Ofi ia . In the a rea betw ix t the

ch u rches of S.Vincenzo e Anafiafro and S. Maria della fcala

del Cielo ex tending to S . Paolo a lle tré Fontane, ten thoufind m a rtyrs fand Ch riitians are fuppofed to have fu ifered m a rtyrdom .

P inc pillars. At the high a l tar, w hich is on -the right-hand, are two

p illa rs of green porphyry , of a beau ty fca rcely to be m a tch

ed. Near th is is a p i l la r fou r feet h igh , ca fed w ith w ood,and inclofed w ith in iron ra ils , and th is infcription on it.

Colum na [14pm qua m dam pz'

tam :fm'

t S P a ula: J pn/301145 .

The pillar on w hich St . Pau l the apoftle w as beheaded.

’

Oppoiite to this a lta r is another, adorned w ith red por

phy ry pil la rs , and the m artyrdom of St . Peter, painted byG u ido Rheni. In th is church a re to be had a grea t va rietyof l ittle m eda ls and a m u lets , w ith religious fiories , or per

;fons reprefented o n them and by Virtue of a m a fs fa id over

thefe trifles , they a re looked upon a s fovere ign rem edies

aga inil the head-ach , epilepfy , and other diforders . A little

fa rther from the city on th is road is the annuncia tion chu rch ,w here indu lgencies a re to be had for ten thou fand years ;

He re I cannot bu t obfe rve tha t Protefia nts a re m iitaken in

i nagin ing th e term of indu lgencies to rela te to th is life , and

c m iequ en tiy tha t an indu lgence of a yea r au thorifes a tw e lve

m onth’s courfe of fin . The idea of the Rom an—ca tholics is

ve .y difi'

e i en t for they believe tha t they concern only the

fu tu re Ra te . For infl ance , they im agine , tha t a perfon w ho,for the pu rifica tion of h is fou l, ought to rem ain in pu rgatorya hundred thou fa nd yea rs , {h a ll be difcha rged a t the ex pi

ra tion of ten thoufa nd, if he has taken care in h is life-tim e

to provide h im fe lf w ith indu lgencies for ninety thou land

years . In the'

cathedra ls and pri ncipa l ch u rches ar e feven

p rivileged a l ta rs to be vifitcd for th is purpofe, w h ich a re dif

tingu iihed by this infcription

Unum ox fizptom Alta rz'

bm .

On e of the (even altargN earer,

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R o n E .

L E T T E R L.

Continu ation of the foregoing A ccou nt of the

rel igiou s Edifices and Pa laces at Rom e

p articu larly St . Peter’s urch , the Vatican, and

the cattle of St. A ngelo.

‘

Now com e to St. Peter’s, in th e Va tican, wh ich

"for

l‘

argenefs and beau ty m ay be ca lled the m etropolitan

ch u rch not only ofRome and Ita ly , bu t of the w hole w orld.

In th is place w e fee to w hat an am azing pitch the Rom ifhchu rch , w h ich is (o fond of ex terna l pom p and fplendor, has

w ith in tw o centuries carried its favourite fchem e, v iz. th at

of captiva ting the fen l’

es , and infpiring the m inds of the i

(

norant w ith aw e and fubm iflion to the cler Fontana , in

h is account of th is chu rch , com pu tes, riiit in h is tim e,nam ely, forty years ago, it had coil:above e ighty m ill ions ofRomanfw di .

“ Pope LeoX. by his im patience in forw ard

ing the bu ilding and ornam en ts of this church w ith a ll pcf

fible difpatch and fplendor, occa lioned fuch flagrant ahu i'

ca

in the fale of indu lgencies , as railed a general clam ou r a

m om al l people of fenfe . On this ground it w as thatT ezeland fu ther continued their hofiil ities a ainft the

a rfil w ith w h at infin ite prejudice to it 1 8 fufiicien

by the conre u ences .

I t is fa id t a t Confiantine the Great bu ilt a church on

th is pot, and that the em peror h im felf ca rried th ither tw elveba fkets of ea rth 5 bu t tha t edifice, by length of tim e, fe l l tod ecay , and la in ru ins , til l Ju l ius II . began the prefent

fi ru étu re . T e firfi a rch iteét etnployed fby h im w a s Bra

m ante'

Lazari 5 and it w as continued under Raphael d’Ur

About twenty m illions fierling . This enorm ou s ex pence had a hapw ith regard to Chriltianity in neral , though it proved in fom efata l to the church ofRom e ; é; it was a rem ote caufe of the

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1 53p

R O M E .

Egypt dedicated m e to the fun, Raine to two em pe

m m , bu t by thee, O devout Six tus, I am confecra ted to

the crois.’

Under the above-m entioned ancient infcriptions , Six tusV . caufed the follow ing to be engraved on the tide tow ardsthe church

Th is obelilk being brought aw ay from its form er fitu a

tion , w here it had been dedicated to the em perors Augufi u s

and T iberius , w as by Six tu s V . confecrated to the facred

crofs, I 586.

On the four of th e pedeltal are the follow ing in

On the w ell fide

Cbrylu: impera r,

Chrifi conquers ; Chrilt reigns ; Chrill governs u s

m ay Chrifi defend h is people from all e vil .’

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'

R D. M'

E .

T ern-tine acne , rapport the artifim ve, on Which is thisim a m

MDCXII .

To the honour Sf th‘

e chiefbf the apo‘

files, pepe PaulV . of the fam i ly Of 1911t and a na tive ofRom e , in the

y ear i 6 1 2, and it! the lbvénth year of his pontificate .

’

On'

each fide of the five entrances into th is portico‘

two Ionic pillars of a purple kind of m arble over the m ainenha nce is a m arbl e bafi —reh

’

dva by Malvic'in’

o, reprefeChrifi giving the keys to St. Peter. Over this port ico is theelofet hiem whence the pope three tim es

eaflyear, v iz. on

Mm fiday-Tli urfl ay Batters-day, and Alt ion-day , pros

noune'

es the public benediétion . On Maundy-Thurfday isdeat ons, t he Bella it}and the other in Itaf

Ran. The cut ie againii hereticks is then em blem atica‘

lly de-t

ass umed by ex tidghilh ifig a W ax taper and throw in it down

to the ground . his elofet er tr ibuna l was deligne by Lawfi'

anoo; and a fine print of it is publifl ied b Bartbli . Theibr th e m ore cem enient cleaning church is fu r-s

Iiiihetl W ith wat‘

ér here is a lfoa piece ofm oraicawork, whichflood Formerly in the ch urch , and W as rem oved hither tther-

"

with « he w al l . It is the W ork of G itto a Florentine

painter, Who died in the year £136, and was rewarded w ith

two thoufa’

nd two hundred gui ders f , a lar e [um at that

tim e, by cardina l Stefm echi, nephew to pepe oniface VIII.It rem ains fife Rom ifi church under the re of a {h ip in‘

a ftorm , with the difciples ofChrifl on boar w h ile ou r Sa

viou i'appearsWalking on the W aves and holdingout h is hand

to Peter jufi linking, when his faith began to ail him . Butthe bell partofthe work, in the judgm ent ofthe connoifl

'

eu rs,

is a m an fitting on the thore anglingw ith a red .

Th is pertico is paved with the fineit m arble, a nd the

titl ing is embell ilhed W ith gilding and fl ucce-work. On

the righ t-hand, .nea r thefiaire, is an equ efirianfiatne of Con

-j.

fiantine the .Great ; his joy and fiu'

prife a t the appearance of

it About one hundred m s ninetyétvflo pounds flierlinga

2 56 R 0 M E .

the ell'

h lgent crofs in the fky is adm irably ex prefl'

ed in this

piece . And,

though it is not u ite com pleated, and w ants the

pol ilh , it is grea tly efteem both for its rem a rkable fize,being ofa lingle block ofm arble, and for its beau ty : it is thew ork ofLorenzo Bernin i I . Oppofite to th is , on the other

fide, is an equeftrian fla tue of Charlem ain, m ade ou t of ablock of ble, by Augufl inoCornacchin i . A grea t

m a ny faul ts are cund in th is ,

piece ; bu t poflibly the greatefi'

difadvantage to this fl am e is , that the artifi is {till living, and

at his dea th all thefe cenfures w ill probably van ifh .

From the portico fou r doors Open into th e ch urch , ofw h ich the farthefton the right

-hand is w alled u p, and opened‘

only once in twenty-five years , nam ely, in the holy , or J u

bilce ear ; and then the cerem on is perform ed by the po

h im fe fw ith a ham m er . T he bra s crofs on the door is ki ed

w ith fuch devotion , that the low er part of it is becom e m u ch

paler than the other . Form erly no w om an w a s perm itted to

go through the furthefi door on the left-hand ; bu t th is abfurd

order has been for fom e tim e repea led . Torrigi, in h is treatife a

’cCrypt. f a tican . fays, tha t,

the farthefl:door on the lefth and w a s form erly dill

-ingu ifhed by t he nam e ofporta j udicii,being appropriated only for bringing the dead into the church,as the m iddle door w a s ca lled parta a rgm tea , from its beingplated over w ith hlver ; bu t at prefent noth ing of it is to befew . It is m ade ofbrafs , w ith two foldings , each confifl ingof three com partm ents . In the two upper divifions a re our

Saviour and the Virgin Mary ; in the two m iddle ones, St.Peter and St . Pau l ; in one of the low efi com part m ents isE ugene IV . putting the crow n upon the em peror Sigifm und

’s

head ; and in the other, the fam e pope iving public a udienceto fom e em bafladors from the call . Th is door w as ca ll byAnton io Filareti and Sim one Dona telli, tw o Florentines ,order of pope Eugene IV Over it is a m arble bayé-rd iw o,

1 Lorenzo Bernini w as of fuch dil’dn ilhed em inence in pa inm echanics, a rchiteé

’ture, and fcu l ture, at no perfon of tafie w ou d

om it l ist ing an of his w orks, ofw ich eighteen fpecim ens are to be fou ndin St. Peter

‘

s c urch . There a re alfo a great m any pieces in architeé'

ture,fculpture, &c. to be feen in other parts ofRom e, w h ich are f intheir proper laces . Lorenzo Bernini w as born a t

.

Naples, of l tine

p arents , an w a s the M ichael A n 10 of his tim e. Though he w a s a

perlon of a great geniu s and uncle anding, his converl'

atiori wa s none ofthe m olt agreeable , being ex trem ely hot and inipetuou s . GregoXIV. procu red h im the henou rof being made a kui

‘

ght of the PortugueZorder ofChril’t . He died a t Rom e in 1 680, in the e ighty

-fecond year ofh is age. His l ife has been w ritten

,by Baldinucci.

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2 58 R O M E .

gold and filver bu t the m a in bu ilding w as b no m eans to

32

311

2; be com pa red w ith St . Peter’s a t Rom e . St. Izaul’s chu rch a t

plc, and St . London is a noble piece of a rch iteftu re, bu t m uch lefs in itsPa u l

’s dim enfions th an St . Peter

’s its length , according to Ch am

‘ hm ‘h' beria in , be ing on ly 690 Engl ifh feet, w h ich m ake abou t

feet of Pa ris bu t ifw e follow the m ea fu rem en t a nd defign

ofCol in Campbel l , in the firft volu m e ofh is Virrwvius B r i

ta nnicur, w h ich feem s to com e nea refi the tru th , th e len gth

of St . Pau l’s w ill be fou nd not to e x ceed 520 Engl iih fee t

w hereas St. Peter’s (of w h ich h e gives the new eh:and m olt

e x aft plan and eleva tion ) takes up 650 Engl iih feet, ex c l u

five of the portico bu t in both th e th icknefs of th e w a l l s is

included. St. Peter’s , according to m y m eafu re, is 2 2 8

com m on paces‘in length , of w h ich paces the length of St .

Pa u l’s a t London , from th efa ca de to the center of the cu pola

‘i s 1 24, and the w hole length 2 2 2 . T he length of the c rofs

ifle from the north to the fou th door is 1 1 5, a nd the brea dth

of the chu rch in oth er pa rts is 46 fu ch‘

paces . T he dia m e

ter of th e cupola is 53, and the circu m ference of the firft

ga llery 1 56 com m on paces . In a n apa rtm ent in the Upper

pa rt of St. Pa u l’s is a w ooden m ode l of St . Peter

’s ch u rch

but fo inaccu ra te , that th ey w ho ju dge of th e two chu rch es

by it w ill be greatly m iftakcn .

After a ll the a tten tion and cha rge in bu ilding St. Pete r’s,

it has not been preferved from the com m on fate of a l l fublu

na ry th ings ; i . e. it ha s a m ix tu re of im perfections bu t in

fi ead of enla rging on them , or ex am in ing the jufi nefs of fu chcenfu res on th is fuperb edifice, give m e leave to refer you to

th e in troduction to the firft pa rt of the abovem entioned M r.

Cam pbell’s Vitru 'viu s B r ita m zz

'

cu r.

Height ofIt is u n iverfa l ly agreed tha t the cupola of St. Peter

’s is a

the cupola w ork of af’ton ilh ing a rt a nd grandeu r, a nd a t a confiderableof § to Pe difiance im prefl

'

es on the m ind a m agn ificen t idea of th e c ityt“

in w h ich it fi a nds . The heigh t from the pavem en t .of the

ch u rch to the top of the crofs is 593pa lm }, or 405 French ,and Engl ifh feet. The ou tw a rd circum ference of the

dom e is 620 Englifh feet and the inw ard diam eter,—w h ich

is equ a l to th a t of the Pantheon , is 1 9 1 Rom an pa lm }, or

1 31 g, French , and 1 43 Engl ifh feet.'

The firfi gallery in

the cupola I found to be 2 1 4 com m on paces rou nd .

Dom e, by T h is dom e w as bu ilt under the pon tifica te ofSix tu s V . J ae .

whom bu il t de la Ports. and Dom en ico Fontan a be ing the arch itects ;how ever, the honour of the u ndertaking a nd the defign is

due to the great Michael Angelo. That celebra ted a rt ifi ,upon

Reliquess

R O M E .

any of the w orks of m orta ls to a rrive a t. In the year 1 700th is cleft in the cu pola w as w idened by an ear thqu ake bu t

by rea fon of its grea t h eigh t it is fca rce difcern able from be'

low , un lefs one be prev iou fly inform ed of it how ever, from

the u pper ga l leries are plainly feen tw o clefts or fifl'

u res , op

pol i te t o each oth er, and one of th em covered w ith an iron

cram p of a h and’s brea th .

Over each of thefe four {ta tu es is a fine tr ibuna , or gal le ry ,from w h ence , fcvera l tim es in the yea r, the rel iques , w h ich

a re kept in a particu la r chapel a re ex pofed to publ ic v iew , of

w h ich there a re grea t num bers

In the vau lts under th e pedcfta ls of each of the fou r fl am es

an altar is erected, on which th e h if’tory of the fa in t , w hofe

fi a tue {l and over it, is reprefen ted, in m ofa ic-w ork,‘ by F abio

Ch rifiofori, from th e defigns of the fam ou s Andrea Sa cch i .

Under thefe fou r a ltars a re {l eps leading dow n to the oth er

fubterraneou s va u l ts , w h ich are ful l of e x cel len t m ofai c, tha t

being the on ly”

w ork w h ich cou ld be proof aga infi the da m pnefs of the place . T h is m ofa ic-w ork w as form erly the pave

m en t of_

the old ch u rch ofSt. Peter . T hefe va u lts are crow ded w ith the tom bs of th e fa ints , w h ich be ing

‘too facred to be

broken dow n or rem oved, are inclofed w ith a wall , fo th a t

there is no fee ing any th ing here w i thou t a torch . The pavem en t is fuppofed to have been m ade in the tim e ofConfl an

tine the G rea t, and ccnfifts of porphy ry a nd other kinds of

m a rble. Here w as in terred qu een Ch riftina of Sw eden and

n ea r h er {l ands a fta tu e of Ch rii’c, in w h ite m arble, in the

old Gothic tafle and on a l l fides here are feen {tone cofiin s

of the popes and ca rdin a l s of pa i’r ages . Adrian IV . lies in a

very la rge cohi n , m ade of a fingle piece of granate , brough t

ou t of Egypt a t the fam e tim e a s the Va tican obelifk, and

fuppofcd to be the la rgeil p iece of its kind in th a t form .

Form erly the em perors Honorius , Theodofius , and O tho

I I . la y h ere fepa ra tely in very fuperb m onum en ts ; but in

fucceeding ages , the popes h ave though t fit to pu t their eof

fins to oth er u fes , lay ing the th ree em perors bones together

in a kind of hole,not Un l ike an oven . Potlibly th e fecret

m otive of the popes w a s utterly to effa ce and ex tingu ifh al l

rem em brance of th e fuprem acy w h ich form erly belonged to

the em perors ofRom e , and efpecia lly of thofe em perors who

The tediou s ca ta logu e of the fictitiou s reliqu es w h ich the au thor gives

a re om itted here , a nd in m o lt other parts of th is w ork, a s they can affordbu t little enterta inm ent to the Englith Pm td tant reader.

were

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2 62

Th e h igh

R O M E .

Bafl'

us He re a re likew ife a fta tue of the Virgin Ma ryw ith the child Jefu s , in w hite m arble , a bea u tiful piece of

w ork,*

and brough t h ither from the m onum en t of Pa u l V .

the crea tion of Eve the tom b of Pau l IV . a grea t m a n yancien t m ofa ic pieces ; and fom e ex cellen t new w ork, in

th at tafte , am ong the orn am ents of the fou r fubterra neo u s

chapels of St. Veronica , St . Andrew , St. Longinu s , a nd S t .

Helena . In the cen ter betw een thefe ‘fou r ch apels , {la n dsthe Clementine ch ape l , or la Confeflione de

’SS Apoftol i, di

rectly u nder th e h igh a lta r and the cupola of the ca th edra l .

T he w a ll of this ch ape l is incru fl ed w ith m a rble and porph yry , brought from Agrippina

’s ba th , wh ich ancien tly f

’cood

on th is fpot . A m ol a ic w ork in th is chape l , reprefen tingSt. Peter. and St. Pa u l is fa id to be e ight hundred y ears oldthe fine brafs bafi - relz

’

w a, together w ith fou r llabs , ea ch of

a l ingle piece of Serpent ine a t the entrance of th is cha pe l ,a re very w ell w orth fee ing. On th is a l tar the pa l/id a re

confecra ted by the Pope , a nd u nder it a re kept th e princ ip a l

rel iques belonging to th is ca thedra l , v iz. the rem ains of S t .P eter and St . Pa u l . Th is pla ce is pa rticu la rly {tiled Lim in a

Apoftolorum , and w hoeve r is defirou s of a m ore pa rticu l a r a c

count of the con ten ts of thefe fubterraneou s places , m ay be

gratified inFontana’s defcription of this ch u rch in Bofi a nd

‘

A ringh i’s Rom a Subter ra nea , and a lfo in Torrigi

’s trea tife

delle GrotteVa tica ne a nd it is on the credit of th e lafi th a t I

v enture to relate, tha t on the cheft in w h ich a re kept the re

m a ins of St. Peter a nd St . Pa u l , l ies a golden crucifix ,ing a h undred and fifty pou nds , The e x pence of fee ingthefe vau l ts does not e x ceed th ree pa ali and a m an w a lks

before w ith a l ighted torch a ll the w ay .

Bu t l eav ing thefe fubterraneou s va u l ts , I retu rn to th e ca

thedra l , w he re the a lta re m agg iare, or h igh a lta r (a t w h ich

the pope a lone is to ofii cia te ) {tanding in the m iddle of th e

crofs , and directly under th e center of the cu’

pola , firfto

a ttra éts

the eye , According to the cu ll om bf the a ncients , it fron ts

the tr ibune , fo tha t the pope , w hen he fays m afs , faces the

people and the gra nd en trance . Over th is a lta r I S a ca nopyofgilt bronze , embell ilh ed w ith fou r ange ls and a cru e l fix

,

a nd refting on four la rge tw ifted brafs pilla rs , call by G rego

rio Roffi, from a deftgn of Bernin i. The weigh t of th efe

His coffin is of Parian m arble n ; palm s in length: 6 in breadth,and 6 4; h igh . Baffu s died A. D. 359.

1 1 s . 6 d. fieriing.

R O M E .

p i l lars is ten thou fand and fifty pounds , and the m eta l u fedfo r th is pu rpofe form erly covered the dom e of the pantheon

t h e four pedefl a ls a re of m a rble , and finely ex ecu tedby Fran

c e fcoFiam m ingo.

Tha t Urban VIII . in erecting th efe pilla rs , w h ich a re

n inety feeth igh , w a s not unm indfu l of h is fa m e is appa ren t

from h is a rm s, n am ely , the bees w h ich feem to fw a rm pretty

t h ick a m ong the fol iages on the pilla rs , and on the pedefi a ls a

I n th is place one h as fou r v iew s , a s it w ere, of (0 m any fpa

c iou s chu rch es . From h ence a lfo there are tw o fl igh ts of

fi ep s (w h ich a re genera lly kept th a t) leading to the abovem en tion edConfefiioApoflolorum ,

round wh ich in the church ,are pl a ced a h undred h lver lam ps con tin u a lly burn ing, e x cepton Good-Friday .

B u t to proceed in th e defcription of th is ch urch , I retu rnto th e m a in en trance , w here at the tw o firfi pil la rs , w h ich

fi a nd oppofite each other, a re tw o la rge fhells or bafon s for

holy w a ter, of yel low m a rble, w h ich a re h eld ou t by two

ange l s of w hite m a rble‘the (bells a re each of one piece ‘

of

m a rble , as a re a lfo the a ngels th a t fupport them . Th is

w ork is la rge and bea u tifu l , and does grea t honou r to Au

gu ftino Com ach in i .’T he m ofa ic im age of St . Peter, over

th e Porta San ta , is a good p iece, a nd done by Ciro Ferri, a

Rom an , w ho h as a lfo adorned w ith the fam e kind of w ork

th e cu pola of the firft ch a pel on the righ t-h and from the en

trance , from a defign of h is m afier Pietro di Cartona . In

th is ch ape l is fhew n a m a rble pillar, w h ich belonged, a s is

p retended, to the tem ple ofJeru fa lem , on w h ich ou r Saviou r

C ) m m on l lea ned w hen h e ta u orh t there . In the fm a ll cha

pel of S . hi icholas , bit p of NIira , adjoin ing to this , is an

a dm irable reprefcnta tion of tha t fa in t in m ofa ic, by Fabio

Ch riftofori . T he cieling of the form er ch apel , w h ich de

rives its nam e from a w ooden crof‘

s m ade by Pietro Cava llin i,is painted by Lan franch i .

On the firl’t p illar in the chu rch, fa'

cing th is chapel , at

wh ich th e holy-w a ter vefl

’

el fi ands , is the m onum en t of the

fam ou s Ch rifi ina A lex andra qu een of Sw eden , begu n a t the

ex pence of Innocent XII . from a defign of Carlo Fontana ,and fin ifhed in 1 702 , u nder Clem entXI . It is of w h ite

m a rble , w ith a m eda l l ion or bu ll of th a t princefs in bajfof rlz

'

ew ,by Theodon , and fom e bra fs ornam ents by G ia rdin i.

The ex pence of the w hole w ork am ounted to tw elve thou

fan'

d cudi, or crow n s , and the body w a s brough t h ither from

the rotte facre, where it w a s depofited before, w ithin th ree

S 4. COflifiS ,

I

2 63

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2 66 R O M E .

tha t of the pope, the farcoph agu s , and th e pedefta l , confiifonly of five va l’cblocks ofw h ite m a rble, and a re fin ely ex e

cu ted by Cam illo Ru fcon i, aMilanefe. Oppofite to th is is

the m onum ent of pope Gregory XIV . w ithou t the leafi or

n am ent belqnging to it. On one of the large pil la rs , w h ich

on th is fide fupport the cu pola , is a fl a tu e of St. J erom in

the w ildernefs , accounted one of Muzian i’s heft perform

w a m p ofanecs . On the other fide of the pilafter {l ands an old brafs

Pe ter’s fi a flam e of St . Peter, w hich is m u ch reforted to by the vu lga r ,

w ho a re continual ly killing its feet, a nd rubbing their h eadsaga inft it. It is fa id to have been caft in the tim e of G re

ory the G rea t, from the fragm ents of a dem olifhed Pra tue of

Eupiter Capitol inu s ; a nd Leo Ifa uricu s Iconoclafia in v a in

threa ten ed Gregory II . tha t he w ou ld com e and break it a l l

to pieces ; Som e p retend to fay th at the f’ca tue did not n u

dergo a fecond fufion ; bu t th a t a few a ltera tions ferved to

m ake a St. Peter of the paga n Ju piter : how ever, I m ufi ow n

th is conjecture feem s to m e not a t a ll well grou nded . T h e

a ltera tion m ade requ ired noth ing lefs than th a t th e w hole

ihou ld be caft ag a in for th is fl a tue {i ts in a chair , w ith th e

key s in the left-h and, ,

w h ich l ies upon its breaft, and the

r igh t-h and is a l ittle ra ifed, w ith the tw o fore-fingers ereft,

a s if pronouncing a benediction , a polture w h ich agrees w ith

no fl a tu e lefs th an w ith th a t of Jupiter. Over the head is

a glory , w h ich looks m ore l ike a fm a l l ca rt-w heel w ith the

na ils , than the radiancy of an ill um ina ted head.

Farther,'

on the righ t-h and l ids , is the rich Gregorian

ch apel , dedica ted to th e V irgin Mar on w h ich GregoryXIII . fpent e ighty thou fandfi udi . he arch itect of it w as

G iacom o del la Porta ; a nd th e pope caufed the body of St.

Gregory Nazianzen , w hich form erly lay in the Benedictine

nunnery near the Cam pu s’

Martiu s, to be rem oved h ither.

In the crofs ifle on , ,the righ t, are three a ltars , adorned

w ith as m any celebra ted pictu res the firfi , by Angelo Ca

rofelli, a Rom an , is St . W encell au s , duke of Bohem ia 5thefecond, by Va len tin , a Frenchm an, reprefents the m a r

tyrdom of the fa in ts Procefl'

u s andMartin ian and the th ird,by Poufl in , is the m artyrdom of St. Erafm us . Here

,and a t

the a ltars on the other fide of this ille, a re fevera l beau tifu l

pillars of porphyry , negro, and.gia llo a ntics . On one of thea ltar-pieces w as form erly a picture by the fam ous Lanfranchi,reprefenting Chriit w alking on the fea , and holding up St .Peter, w ho had begu n to l ink bu t in its place now {l ands a

m olt ex cellent piece of m ofa ic-work, which ex hibits in an

infinite

~ R'

O M E . 2 67infinite variety of colou rs tw enty

- fou r a ngelic and hu m an fi

g u res . A l ike a ltera tion h a s been m ade a t the a lta r of St.M ich ae l the a rch-angel in the m onum ent of St. Petron il la ,by Q rercino.

Nex t to th is is the i’ra tely m onum ent of Clem ent X. of Tom bofw h ich Ma ttia de Rofl i w a s the a rchitect : the pope

’s fia tu e Ch m “ x

w a s done b Hercole Ferra ta , tha t ofFa ith by Lazzaro Mo~

x c l l i Con llancy is the w ork ofG iofeppe Mazzol i ; and thetw o Fam es , w ith other ornam en ts , of Fil ippo Ca rcano ; andl a ftly , the bafl éi-reliw o

’s on the farcophagu s a re by fom e a ttri

bu ted to Pa rifi, and b others to Leon ardo Rett i .

T he fa rther end 0 th e chu rch is taken up by the Alta re A ltare del lade lla Ca tedra di S. Pietro, where the w ooden pu lpit of tha t

cated“ di

a pofi le is kept inclofed in another of gilt bronze, and fupS ’ P ‘em ‘

por ted by tw o of the G reek and tw o of the Latin fa thers ,v iz. St . Chryfofiom , St . Ath an afiu s , St . A ugufl in , and St .A m brofe 5 al l fou r a re very la rge , and of gil t bronze , {tand

ing on fou r {la tely m a rble pedefi a ls . O ver the pu lp it is a

g lory of the fam e m e ta l , and in the center of it the HolyG hofi is reprefented in the form of a dove, w ith rays ill

'

u ingfrom a l l pa rts of it . Th e w hole w ork, w h ich coft a hundred a nd feven thou fand five hundred and fifty

-o

c row ns , w as defigned by Bern in i, and caft by v . Pif

e m a .

B efore th is a lta r {l ands a large bronze lam p, made by ord er ofClem en t XI: w ho gran ted to a l l the rel igiou s orders

t h e privilege of h aving the im age of th eir founders placed

h ere , and gave the precedency to thofe orders w hich w ere

m oft eXpeditiou s in pay ing th is honou r to their founders .

T h e Dom in icans w ere the firlt in a ccepting of the pope’s in

du lgence . The fiatu s of their founder is cu t out of a fingle

block of m arble , w h ich , before it cam e in to the fcu lptor’s

h ands , cof’t tw o thou fa nd Rom an fi udz’

, or crow n s . His

cou nten ance and a ttitude {i rongly eXprefs th e vehem ence and

r igou r w h ich too often influence h is difciples in the proceed

ings of the inqu ifition . At h is left-tide is a dog w ith a

fla m ing torch , w h ich is the a rm s of the above-m en tioned

form idable tribun al . Le G ros h as em inen tly lhew n h is u fu a l

{kill in th is fia tue, w h ich w a s fet up in the yea r 1 706. Opofite

'

to it, fom e yea rs ago, n am ely , in the pontifica te of

fienedic’cXIII . the f’ra t'

ue of St . F rancis w as l ikew ife fet uph ere bu t the other orders h ave not yet thought fit

‘

to take

the advantage of the pope’s grant ; and a s the two c h ief

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2 70

Sacred earth

from an am

ph ithm tre.

Fine piece of

R O M E .

The vellry is an octagonal bu ilding, and {l ands a l ittle do:

rach ed from the chu rch . O ver the door, on the infi de, a re

{hew n large iron cha ins , pretended’

to have been thofe of S t .

Peter and St. Pau l . Here a re to be feen fom e va lu abl e

pa intings , a nd abunda nce of reliques, m olt of w h ich a re ,

on Eafier-Monday , ex pofed to public view .

In r the w ardrobe adjoin ing to it is kept the ex traordin a ryfu rn itu re of the ca thedra l ; particul arly a (ct of h angings ,conflfl'ing of above th irty thou fand oils of crim fon da m a fk,enriched w ith a gold

-lace, fou r inches broad, and fa id to h a ve

colt a hundred thou fand fl u s h, or crow n s .

The nex t chapel , and the fi ril tha t w a s fin iihed in the

church , is tha t ofGregory the G rea t. It w a s bu ilt by C le

m ent VIII . from a defign of Della Porta a nd from th a t

pope it is a lfo ca lledCape lla Clem entina . Under the a lta r l ies

the body ofGregory the Grea t. The a ltar-piece , pa in ted

by Sacch i, reprefents the Rory of a Pol ifl i em baflador defiringfom e reliqu es of the pope, w ho gave h im a handkerch ief fu ll

of ea rth from Vefpafion’s am ph ithea tre . The em bafl

'

ador

ex prefied no (m a ll difpleafure a t th is apparent m ockery bu t

by a m iracle infiantaneou fly w rough t by the pope, he he

cam e convinced tha t th is ea rth w a s im pregna ted w ith the

blood of m arty rs ; though from hifiory one w ou ld rath er

th ink, it m u ll be w ith the blood of w ild beafis .

Four of the fathers of the church , a nd other m ofa ic

figures in the [m al l cupola of this ch apel , are by Marce l lo

Provenza le .

Oppofite to this chape l is a n adm irable piece of m ofa ic

w ork, of the death of Saphyra , con ta in ing tw enty-three fi

gu res a s big a s the life , a nd in variety ‘of h abits . It w as

done from a pa inting ofRonca lli del le Pom erancie .

N ex t to this is the m onum ent of Leo XI . of w h ite m a r

ble , by Alga‘

rdi. The pope and two'

of the Virtu es {ta nd

ing by h im , a re bigger tha n the life ; bu t w h a t is m ofl a d

m ired is the bqflo-relz’

ow on the tom b, reprefenting the fub

m ifl ive reconcil ia tion of Henry IV . of France to the Rom an

chu réh .

Oppofite to LeoXI . lies Innocent XI . of the Odefcha lch ifam ily , w ith a fine m onum ent, where Nl oinot, a Bu rgu ndian , h as im m orta lized h is {kill in the bqflo-r

'

elievo’s and other

pa rts of the fcu lptu re to be feen on it.

T he chapel contiguou s to it, dedica ted to th e im m acu la teconception of th e V irg in , is ca l led Cappella del Coro . Here

the offices w h ich requ ire m ufrc a re folem nly perform ed, for

I wh ich

R O M’

E .

wh ich it is very w ell adapted. T he band ofm u iic fiandsfihé

pope in five thou fandfi udz'

, or crow n s, a yea r .

U nder the a ltar is bu ried St . John Ch ryfoi’tom , pa triarch

of Confta ntinople ; and over it is_a w h ite m arble pieta

‘

, byM ich ae l An elo, w ith a crow n of gold over the h eads ofth e V irgin Di a ry and ou r Saviour . In th is chapel lies a lfo

Clem ent XI . of the Alba n i fam ily ; bu t h is tom b h a s noth ing Clem ent thorem a rkable .

“Min t“

F u rther tow a rds the m a in entrance of the ca thedral is the if?“ofm on u m en t of Innocent VIII . th e bra fs fi atu es , and other or

‘

Innocent

nam ents of w h ich w ere ca ll by An ton io Pol lajuolo. On th is V I“

m on u m ent a re the follow ing words

In {anaem ia m ed ingrqfli ufirm , ” dim e m e, Dom ino, 8 p ri/Ir

I h ave w a lked in m y innocence ; redeem m e, O Lord,and be m erciful un to m e .

’

And under themis th is infcription

InnocentioVII] . CyboPout. Ma x .

Ita lia ns pad s p

lotz'

a ,

3 Baj azetbe done m ifi i

M num m tum E w tere B aj ilica but tra rg/Ia tumAlber icu s CyboMa la/pitta

P r inceps Mafia ,Ferm tiIu Dux ,Ma rcbz

'

oCarra r iar, is’c.

P r om pasa ugzyiiafque pofu it l im oDom .

M DCXXI .

To the m em ory of pope Innocent VIII . of the Cibofam ily , the confi ant preferver of the tranqu il ity of Ita ly ,whofe h appy pontifica te w as difi ingu ifh ed by the difcoveryof th e n ew w orld ; by the

‘

grant of the title of His Catho;

licMajefl y to the king of Spa in the inven tion of the fa

cred crofs and by the prefen t of the fpea r w h ich pea rced

our Saviour’s fide, fent by Bajazet, em peror of theLi

m e ,

erlc

1 72 R 0" M' E.

Alhe‘

ric CiboMala fpina , prince ofMath , G's . h is great-r

grandfon , ereéled this m onum ent, w h ich he rem oved h i

ther from t he old cathedral , and embel lifl i ed i t w ith addi

tional ornam ents in die ye ar

In the nex t chapel is an a ltar-gh ee of the Vir inMary’s

purifica tion ; form erly pa inted by Rom an-em, but ni ce a l ter

ed to a Charm in piece of m ofa ic, in w hich a re reprefentcd

{evenwen large one ofthem bearin a lighted torch .

The lafi chapel in th is ca thedral w as buil tby Innocen t XILw ho, that nothing m ight be wanting to its m agnificence,ordered the adm irable porphyry col

-fin, w hich is faid to have

cohtained the body of the em peror O tho II . to be brough t

h ith er, and converted in to a font. The w idow ]: is byFontana ; th e ornam en ts of gilt brafs w ere call by (Ha irline.a nd defigned by Theodons The baptifm ofChril’t, on the

a ltar, is a fine piece of pa inting, by Ca rlie Ab ram .

In St. Peter’s chu rch are abou t a hu ndred a nd ci l a rge

a“m arble pillars ; the fqu are pilafters w ere ineru lte w ith red

m arble by Innocent X. and adorned wiith wh ite m eda llions

o'

r bul l s of the popes , and w h ite doves, w ith green bran ches

in th eir bills, being the arm s of tha t pope, i n baflo-ra l im a .

‘

T he num ber of a ltars in this church a re twenty-nine a nd

the pavem ent is a l l ove r m arble . Every th ing here is kept

w ith fuch neam efs and order, that i t l ooks like a new -bu ilt

church ; and u pon the h a ll appearance of any du ll on the

w a lls or ciel ing, people a re d raw ri up in m a ch ines m ade for

th at pu rpofe to take i t aw ay . Th e du ll is not fivept oil , as

tha t would be on ly driving it from one place to another, he

fides dam aging th e w ork w ith bru lhes or broom s ; bu t is

w iped oil" w ith lin en cloths . No lefs than fifty perfons are

appointed for this office . The grea t ca re obferved in keeping the church clean m ade m e wonder they lhou ld fu lfer

birds to H abou t in it, am ong w hich w ere fom e pigeons ;bu t w het er this w a s ow ing to the d ifi cu lty of ca tchin

them , or to a kind of fuperfirtious r ega rd to tha t bird

cannot determ ine . The church is fom ew h a t da rk, on ac

count of the oth icknefs off the wa lls and the fm allnefs of thefaic wor

The Ru llian s , till the tim e of Peter the Grea t, fcm pled to eat pi

geons, becaufe the Holy Ghofi had a peared in th at form . Of a piece

w ith thi s, is the profound reafoning o thofe cafu ifis w ho ha ve begun toeat flelh on F rida y s du ring the year in w hich the felti of the na tivityfa l ls on that day , qu oting thefe words in the firlt chapter of St. John,The word wa s m ade flelh.

’

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R C'

M E .

i and is‘

by'

no m eans to be placed on a level in that art

W i th Rapha el . The la tter w as of a m ild, affable, and ge

nerons difpofition , in (0 m uch tha t thefe am iable qual ities

a ppea r confpicuou s even in his m anner of defigning and

pa in ting ; efpecia l ly in th is piece . No Ch rifi ian fhou ld a t

tem pt any-reprefenta tion of the deity , a s i t is contrary to h is

e x p rcfs com m and bu t if, l ike the pagans , (om e Anthropo

m orph ilts m u ll needs h ave a vilible im age of their incom pre

h enfible Crea tor, a coilntenence w hich {h ikes the m ind w ithreveren ce and aw e feem s tom e m ore proper than one l ike

th is of Raphael’s , w here beau ty and m ildnel

'

s ex cite onlycom placency and del igh t

Am ong there pieces , the portra i t of Eve is m uch adm ired Fineby

'

al l connoill'

eurs , and is known to h ave been ex ecuted by"18'

Raph ae l’s ow n hand 5 w ho is a l low ed indeed to have del igned

th e other figu res : But-w hether he a lfo pa inted them is m u ch

qfiefi ioned, there being reafon to th ink th a t Jul io Rom anoand del Colle had a {bare in m olt of them . The j udgm ent

of Solom on is a capital piece , a s is a lfo the Lord’s -(upper,

w here the faces of all the difciples a re in view , though theyfit a t a fqu a re table ; the latter is a ttribu ted toRaphael, andthe form er though t to

‘

be Ju lio Rom ano’s,In the Rory of

Ba th lh eba there is a, great im proprie ty in m aking her bathe

herfe lf in th e ligh t orDav id’s a rm y . In the other ga lleries

a re pa intings by Pellegrino Modan efe , G iovann i Modanefe,Raph a el di Reggio, Paris Noga ri, Mafcherino, G iov . Pa u loT edefco, Perino del Vaga , ere. Thofe w ho adm ire fine

prin ts ca nnot bu t be plea fed w ith the collection of fifty-five

ha lf-m eets of im peria l paper, Told by Rofii a t Rom e, not fa r

from San ta Ma ria della Pace, for fou r cudi, u nder,the title

ofLe Logg ia Va tica ne, coll’

del eccbio e nuam Tofl a

dz'

Raf a el: inv enta ta ein a cqua forte da P ietra

Ou r au thor does Raphael great honou r by thi s criticifm , w hich, indeed , is not m u ch to his ow n credit, a s it favou rs a l ittle of the Ca lv inifl ica l foum el

'

s . Su rely the a inter cou ld not infufe too m u ch m ildnel'

s andcom l acency , goodnels and

)

feren ity into the countenance of that Being,w hole m ercy is over a l l h is w orks , w hen he w a s ex erting the beneficentaft of crea tion , a nd com m u nicating happinefs to a new race of beings ;not tha t I approve of fuch reprefenta tions , bu t w ou ld on ly ju ttify the pro.

priety of the painter'

s defign , u pon a fuppofition that the Suprem e Be incou ld ‘

be m ade vifible to m ortal eyes , or reprefented by the finfifi firokesof the pencil .

2 79

a80

PaintinSS0

R O M B .

B u t the place where Raphael’s (kill lh ines in its greatefl

glor is the Cam era della Signatura , and the three room s

adjoining to it. The form er apartm ent w as finilhed in I 5 I r,and in it a re fou r large pieces , bein em blem atical reprefen

ra tion s , 1 Of the ch ief a rticles 0 the Rom ilh faith , v iz.

the T rinity , the Mediation of Chrift, T ranfubfiantia tion,a fu tu re (l ate , are . 2 . Of the Sciences , and progrefs of the

h um an m ind in ph ilofophy , m athem a tics , and aftronom y ;on w h ich account th is piece is u fu al] term ed the fchool of

A thens . 3. OfPoetry , and m ount am afi'

us . 4. Of J uftice , Prudence, and other m ora l virtues .

In th e nex t apartm ent, one cannot bu t obferve a grols

piece of flattery, in the h iftory ofHeliodorus , where pope

Ju l iu s II . is ‘

reprefenteddriving the enem y ou t of the eoclefta ltica l ftate . Another pictu re in th is cham ber is accou nted

th e befi for colouring of any th at Raphael ever pa inted. T he

fub'

ec'

t of th is piece is a pretended m iracle w hich happened a t

Bolfenna in 1 264, in the reign of pope Urban IV . w here a

W a fer w a s vifibly ch anged into blood for the conviction of an

officiating prielt, w ho doubted of the doétrine of tranfubfia n

t iation ; m w h ich Ju liu s II . aga in reprefents the perfon of

Urban IV . and appears in great pom p . The em otions of

the fpeél'

ators a t fuch an aw fu l event, and efpecia lly th e

afton ifhm ent and dread of the prieli , together w ith the fun

pl icity and ex trem e'

fu rp’

rife v ifible in the countenance of th e

pope’s Swifs gu ards , are inim itably ex prefi

'

ed by the painte r .

T he pope is the onlyone w ithou t an m arks of fear or fu r

prife w h ich , it is a id, w as defignedly done by the artifi .

T he th ird piece of pa in ting in the fecond apa rtm en t Ih ew s

Attila king of the Hunns refi‘ra ined from m aking any fa rthe r

inroads u pon the Rom an territories by Leo’s bold fpeech to

h im , feconded w ith a v il ion from heaven . The fou rth is a

m olt adm irable piece reprefenting St. Peter delivered ou t of

prifon , intended a s a n al lufion to the im prifonm ent of LeoX . before h is ex alta tion to the papa l dignity, w hen h e w as

t aken prifoner a t the ba ttle ofRavenna , from whence, how

e ve r, he found m ean s to m ake h is efcape.

On the ciel ing a re four fm a ller pieces by Raphael , v iz.

1 . God appea ring toMofes in the flam ing bufh . 2 . The de

l uge w ith Noah’s ark . 3. Abraham ing to offer u p h is (on

I fa a c. 4. Jacob’s vilion of the m'

c ladder. In the nex t

a pa rtm ent a re the follow in

gpieces alfo by Ra ael . 1 . Pope

Leo v indicating h is con uct before Ch ar es the Grea t .

2 . The coronation of Charles the Great a tRom e. 3. Pope

Leo'

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i 82 R O M E .

very valuable p ieces by Peruzzi, Va fari, V ago,Fine piétureMutiano, Dom en ich ino, &c . In one cha r is a draw ing

313 in“

crayons on the w a l l , by Ca rlo Maratti, o Chrilt in the“a“

m anger ; the piétu re done from th is defign is in the Q ririna l

pa lace . In another cham ber is the V irgin Mary by G iofepped’Arpino on a pel lucid a labalter, w here the n atura l colour

and veins of the a labafier contribute not a l ittle to the pro

priety of ex preflion fo th at th is piece is very h ighly efteem

cd both as a work of na tu re and art . In the apa rtm en t w here

form erly pope Pius IV . l ived,a re fhewn fom e good pa in tings

of the two Zucca ri’s , Baroccio, Gherardi, 86C. T he p it taw h ich Pietro di Cortona pa inted by order ofUrban VII I . is

no longer in being ; bu t over the door is a fine piece by Mu

z ian i, reprefenting the m a nna fa lling into the cam p of th e

Ifrael ites . W hen a l l th e doors are Open there is a beau tifu l

v ill a of five hu ndred com m on paces th rough pope P ius’s

apa rtm ent and the large ga l lery to the B elvedere founta in . I

Painting in fpeak here of the ga llery bu ilt by Gre ory XIII . over the l ithe grea t br which w as defigned by Michac Angelo, a nd pa intedh’u °f G re”

by

a

garis Nogari, Ma rco di Faenza , G iov . di Modena , G iacom o Sem enza , O ttav iano Ma fcherino, and Lorenzino d a

Bologna . The geogm gh ica l draughts of the pope’s dem i

n ions in Ita ly a nd th e cou ntr

yDOf Avignon were perform ed by

fa ther Danti Perugino, a~

om inican m onk, thorough lyverfed in th is fc ience . The h iftorica l piece in the cen ter of

the ciel in reprefenting Chrift com m anding Peter to feed h islh eep, is y Rom a n el li . Th is gallery is ninety geom etrical

or two h undred a nd th irty-t hree com m on paces in length

a nd adjoin ing to it is anoth er ga llery ofn inety , and adjoin ingto th is again anoth er of fifty com m on paces . In

'

the form e r

a re fevera l defigns by Dom en ich ino, and in the la tter. fev era l

hu llo’s of the ancien t philofophers and poets a copy of the

firlti

celeftia l globe m ade in G reece, the origina l being in the

pa lace of Fa rnefe , a nd the Circenfian a m es in by a-reliev eon an antiqu e coffin ofw h ite m arble . l'

srom th is laft gal lery

an open w a lkof an hundred and e ight paces in length leadsto the foun ta in . In the a djoin ing apa rtm ents a re e igh t em

t ique pieces of m ofa ic—w ork fepa ra tely placed in the w al l,

h av ing been dug u p in 1 7 1 ! in the Sabine gardens on m oun t

Aven tine . Tw o of thefe a re hunting p i eces , tw o htherse

‘

x h ibit w ild bea ll s figh ting ; one h as fevera l Baccha nal ians ,a nd the reft feftoons , foliages , and birds . In the a pa rtm ents

a re fine prin ts of the above -defcribed piél u res ofRaph a el in.

the Loggie, w ith form fine pieces infnfio, wh ich , w ith the

W a lls ,

2 84. R O.

M E .

In the back partofthe Va tican is the veltry orw ard-robe,w h ich is very w ell w orth feeing on account of the piétu res ,a lta r-furnitu re, and vefim ents kept there, though the m olt

va lu able th ings have been rem oved from hence to th e c a ttle

of St. Angelo, w here they are kept fo firié’dy , th at it is not

caf to have a light of them .

n th e farther part of the palace is the Sa la Clem en tina ,w here a t prefen t are the Sw ifs gu a rds , w h ich derives its n a m e

from the founder pope Clem ent VIII . T he a rch iteéls w ere

Della Porta and Fontan a the ciel ing and pa inting inf r ej i'

o

w ere done by Giovann i del Borgo, th e other pieces by hisbrother Cherubino and Balda lfar Bolo nefe .

La Sa la Regia , w h ich is a lfo cal led aolina from Pau l I II .

w as bu ilt from a defrgn ofAntonio Sanga l lo, and its adm ired

fi ua ow orkw a s done by Perino del Vaga , Dan iele diVol ter ra ,and Profpero Brefciano. Over a door in this ha ll \is a por

trait of one of the popes , pa inted by Vafari , w ho is repre

fented denou ncing hi s ana them a’s aga inft hereticks . T h e

fam ou s fea —fight aga inft the T u rks at Lepan to in th e pon tifi

ca te of Piu s V . rs the joint w ork of Frederico and T a deo

Zuccari, Donato de Form ello and Livio Agrefti. Oppofite

The m pgto it is pa inted infra/i

'

a l ike the t ell , the em peror Frederick

m Frede Ba rbaroffa , by G iofeppe Sa lv iati, kuce lin before h is Hol if id ‘ PM ”

nefs ,’

w ith the pope’s right foot upon his {Eou lden w ith this

m fi'

a rs at

the feet of l rm Pm n

the pope.

III . Fr ider ici P r im i Impera tar is iram 59’

cognitum Es’d Sm a tu ar

na va li pm : is a

Pope Alex ander III . fly ing from the w rath and v iolence

of the em peror Frederick I . concea led h im felf at Ven ice,w here, being know n , he w as enterta ined w ith a ll du e honou r by the fenate ; and foon after O tho, the . em peror

’s

fon , being defeated and taken by the Venetians in a fea

figh t, Frederick, a t the conclu lion of a peace, ,

fubm iflivelyprom ifed obedience and fide lity

'

to the holy fee . Thu s byfth e kind afliftance of the republic ofVenice the pope recovered h is dign ity in th e year

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2 86

Sala Duca le .

R o M E .

And on the other fide :

Noa m Coligm'

Rex proba t.

The king approves of killing Ca ligh i.’

Bu t Rom e itfelf feem s to be afham ed of th at ex ecrable in

h um an procedu re ; th is infcription h aving Tom e yea rs ago

been covered w ith a l ittle gilded border . Th is , how eve r,w ill rem ain in h iftory as an indelible blot on Gregory th

T h irteenth’s cha ra&ct , nam ely , tha t he a ppla uded tha fa

bloody n uptials ofHenry ofN ava rre , by a m eda l h e cau fed

to be fi ru ck, w hich on one tide h ad th is legend

Ugonottorum fi ragos .

The flaugh ter of the Hugdnots .’

Under a fin aller picture (near that m entioned above ) whereth e w ounded adm ira l Caligny is carried a long, thefe w ords

are {till legible :

(Ta/pa r Colz'

m'

us Am ira lz'

ur accepta v ulnere dom um defi rfl r .

Gregor ioXII F autif. Max . MDL

Adm ira l Coligny being w ou nded, is carried to h is ow n

houfe,‘

Gregory XIII . being pope,

Over-a inft th is is a perfon h alf naked, w hich w as w ith

ou t doubt m tended for Henry IV. of France , in a fubm ifl i ve

pofi u re before th e pope . Some of the infcription under

th is piéture has likew ife been crazed ; a ll th at rem a ins of itnow is ,

Gregor Ecclgfia fitpplioernES’pa

’nitentem a ll/011 1 17 .

i

Over the door of the Sa la Ducale is a n angel holding the

key s , by Lorenzino di Bologna ; and a noth er by Rafl'

aele da

Reggio, holding the papa l crow n . In th is apartm ent, w h ich

w a s defigned by Bern in i, the pope, on Mau nday-Thu rfda y,

w afhes the feet of th irteen poor priefl s of different na tion s .

T h e {tucco-cu rta in , wh ich feem s tied'

to the ciel ing, in the

m iddle , w here form erly flood a pa rtition , is (0,natu ra lly ex e

cu ted, th a t it has al l the appearance ofwh ite hlk, em broi

dered

R . O M E .

’

dered and fringed w ith gold. Here the pope a lfo.holds

confiftories, and gives audience to the em ba lfadors of crownedheads .

T he Sa la Regia opens into the ch apel of Six tu s IV . andis a fpaciou s room , w ith a bea u tiful pavem ent of in la id m a r

ble . Beh ind the hangings , on the left fide of the papa l

throne, is a clofet, w ith a fm a ll w indow , for the Pretender

to be prefent at any folem n ities . T hefe h angin s , w hich

are m ade from Raphael’s Ca rtons a t Ham pton ourt and

the im perfect rem a ins offive others , a re a confiderable ornam en t to the place on the principa l fefl iva ls . The prophets ,fiby ls , and other pa intings in fnfio on the c iel ing, a re byMich ael Angelo

”

; bu t the piece m ofi adm ired here is th at ofthe h it judgm en t, over the a ltar, by the fam e a rtifi . The

pa in ter h as introduced fuch a m u ltitude of figures , w ith their .

l im bs and attitudes fo accu ra tely del inea ted, that one wou ld

im agine h is ch ief intention in th is piece w as , to difplay h is

ex act know ledge in ana tom y . Bu t this ex act im itation of

nature occafioned fom any indecent nudities , that it w as af-o

terw a rds though t proper t o cover m any of th em w ith a kind

of drapery . Another overfigh t not lefs inex cu fable is , tha tin th is fubjeé

’t, of a ll others the m oft folem n and im portant,

the hea th en ifh fables ofCharon a nd Minos are in troduced .

Th is chapel ,is fom eth ing da rk, fo th a t one has not a

difiinét v iew of“

the fm al l figures pa in ted,

’

on the roof. The

fm oke of the w a x tapers and lam ps h as a lfo m u ch foiled the

p icture of the laf’t j udgm ent.

Another door of the Sal a Regia opens into the Capella

Paolin a , w here is to be feen a piece of the cru cifix ion of St .

Peter, 5 Lorenzino da Bologna ; and the converfion of St.

Pau l by ich ael Angelo the cieling w as pa inted by Federico

Zuccaro.

2 87

In the Pa lazzo Vecch io, or old Va tican pa lace, ofw hich IVa tican

have a lready defcribed the principal apartm ents , is th e fam y .

m ous Va tican l ibrary , w hich w a s rem oved h ither by order

of pope Six tu s V . The an ti-ch am ber, w here the fubv l ibra

ria ns and copifis genera l ly a re, is adorned w ith (om e good

landfcapes , by Pa u l Bril, w ith th e pictu res of fevera l cardi

na ls w ho have been l ibra rians here . Of la te , none bu t m em

bers of the facred college are in‘

vefied w ith the offi ce of ch ief

l ibrari an , to w h ich is annex ed a fa la ry of an hu ndred fcu a’z'

d’oro, or .golden crow ns, per m on th . His chief depu ty ha s,

befides a n a llow ance ofbread and w ine , fix hundredfi udz'

, or

crowns a yea r and the other under—libra rians a hundred a nd

R 0 M E .

each , Holfieniu s , Allatiu s , fa ther Laurea , and

s the two lalt of w hom w ere afterw ards ca rdi

h a ls ) w ere fu libra rians here, and difcha rged the ir trufi

w ith great applau fe.

The firflt‘

gal lery , of w hich there a re three, is two h un

dred feet long, and abou t fi x ty broad . On the righ t-h and ,

above th e books, are feventeen pieces , of general coun cil s ,

pa inted b Henry Flam aud, w ith i nfcriptions u nder them ,

to thew the principa l decrees of each council . On the left

h and a re pa inted the m olt fam ou s l ibraries of antiqu ity, w ith

infcriptions likew ife under them . Under the Hebrew l ibrary ,wh ich is the firll:in order, are the follow ing words :

Legis Levin'

s in Tabcm a rulo

Sam -do: (9°Scr iba , B ibliotlm am

Mofes gives the book of the law to the Levites to be de

p olited'in the tabernacle . Efdras the priefl:and fcribe re

{tores the facred writings .

’

Under the library of the apoftles

8 . Perry : j bcrorum Iibrorum tbej ba rum Rom . Eerie/I qfl‘

er

St. Peter del ivers the tneafu re of the Scriptures to be

kept in the chu rch ofRom e .

’

On the pillars in the m iddle of the ga llery are painted thefirfi inventers of l etters , and am ong thefe Adam leads the

van , w ho is fi iled,

Divinitm edofl us, prim e:fi im tim m bf literarum inventor .

The firfi inventor of letters and fcience, being divinelyinfpired.

’

N ex t com e the fa ns of Seth , w ith a rev iva l of the old

fable of Seth’s pil lars, to w h ich the infcription a lludes :

Filii Set/o a lum ni: da cour m um ta le/firm dffciplidam ia

fi ribunt .

The

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R 0 M E.

It is enatited by th is pe rpetu a l decree of pope Six tus V .

for the prefervation of the books in the Vatican l ibra ry,tha t the prohibition and pena lty underneath be inviolablyobferved and pu t in e x ecut ion .

No perfon , w hether l ibrarian , keeper, cop ifi , or ofw h a t

rank or calling foever, _fh a il be perm itted to take any books

or m anu fcripts belonging to the Va tican library , and ca rrythem elfewhere . Any one tha t acts contra ry to th is dec

’ree ,

by taking aw ay ,' itea l ing, tea ring, or m alicioufl

yfpoil ing

any book, or part of a book, he fh a ll im m edia te be ex

com m unica ted, cu rfed, and anathem a tifed nor lhall fu choffender be abfolved by any bu t the pope h im felf.

’

The other runs thu s

Six tu s, Pontifax Ma x im u r, B ibliot/Jora m Apo olioam , a

Sa no’

iiflim i: pr ior ibur illir P ontifiriouo, qu i Bea ti etri voce‘

m

a udii runt, in ipj is a dbuc furgm tir Ecola/us pr im ordiis incbo’

a

tam , pa ce Eode/ice reddita‘

, La torani i7g/1itu tam , a pa cr ior ibur

deinde in Va tica no, u t ad ufi u Pontificios para tior a tron/Iatam , ibique a N icolaoQu inta a ufl am , a Six toQuan ta irg/igu ittrox au ltam , qua fidei its/free , voterum Earle/ice di oi lim e r itu um

dooum enta om nibus exprgfl'

a , {ff a liara m m u ltiplex j afcrorum copier

l ibrorum confim a rm tu r , adpum in ES’inrorrupta m fidei w ag ;

tom perpetua'

furcqfliane ia no: dor iv anda m , taro tarra rum orbe

a leberr im a m , cum loco deprafla , oofcuro ts’infi lubr ifire

a ufi opara mplofugi ilgu la, cubiou lir circum {s

’infra,f

rolic, porticibu r, totoque cedifirio a fufldam entis obfl rufl o, fir p luteifqu e direfl is, libr ir dfi o/itir, in bum: i nfirm , per oidum

lubrem , m agi/ou rundiquo orna ‘vit,u ti lita ri dicav it. s qus

Th is apoftolica l library , begun in the very infancy ofthechu rch by thefe holy prim itive popes , who heard the voice

of the blefl’

ed St . Peter, and on the reflora tion‘

of the'

peaceof the chu rch efltablifhed in the Lateran , w as afterw ards ,for the greater conveniency of the reigning popes , rem ovedinto the Vatican w h ere i t w as augm ented by N icholas V .

and rece ived very noble im provem ents from Six tu s IV .

And that the records of ou r fa ith , and th e'

rites and difci

pl ine of the a ncient ch urches m ight be know n to a ll , \and

a variety of facred books, tending to the perpetual prefer

vation

G

fi

fi

fi

fi

fl

fl

fl

fl

1 92

A very a h

R O M E'

.

This book Hen ry king ofEngland fends , a s a tefi im onyof h is fa ith , and his friendfh ip for pope LeoX. Honr icm .

T he love-letters of th a t prince to Anne Boleyn a re byBu rnet acknow ledged to be of the kin

’s ow n w riting . Here

a re a lfo lh ew n fom e leaves of the ancrent paper m ade of the

rind of tree s ; fom e Rom a n pug illa rer, or w riting-tables ; a

m a nu fcript of Pliny’s N a tu ra l Hiftory , w ith ex ce llent pieces

in m in ia ture ; another of Dante’s w orks ; the origina l of

Minu tius Fe l ix’s trea tife Do ar rore profana ram Relig ionu m ;

fevera l brev ia ries , m ill'

a ls , a nd m a rtyrologies , bea u tifu llyw ritten . Som e ofthem a re fine ly illum ina ted, efpecia l ly J ul iu s Clov iu s ; tw e lve fol ios, being the origina l of ca rd ina l

Ba ron iu s’s Annal s ; a G reek m anu fcript of the Ale x andrian

Chron icle ; fom e m anu fcripts of Onufriu s , Ligorius , T ho

m as Aqu ina s , Ca rlo Borrom eo, &c . A Hebrew tranfla tion

of Clem ent the e leven th’s Hom il ies , a n adm irable piece of

penm anfh ip , a book of h ierogly ph ica l figures , a very old

fragm ent ofD ion’s h iftory , and a grea t n u m ber ofCh inefe,

A rabic, and other orienta l m anufcri ts . T he m olt im por

tan t of a ll , in m y opin ion , a re , a Ci’

reek m anu fcript of the

erent G reek Septu agin t tran ll a tit m of the O ld T efl am en t, toge ther w ithm anu fcript

of the Septu agint.

Afi efics .

the N ew , w ritten in capita ls , w ithou t a ccen ts , w h ich for

antiqu ity and bea u ty vies w ith the A lex andrian m anu fcript in

the king’s l ibra ry

'

a t London , and by fom e is accoun ted to

h a ve been w r itten in the fix th cen tu ry the Hebrew Bible on

pa rchm en t-rolls , unbound, of a grea t bu lk ; the Gofpe ls of

St . Luke and St. John , bound in ivory , a nd w ritten in‘

the

tenth cen tury the Acts of the Apofl les , in Greek, w ritten

in letters of gold, being a prefent’

from Cha rlotte qu een of

Cypru s to pope Innocen t VIII . T he cover of th is m anu

fcript w a s form erly fe t w ith jew els bu t thefe w ere broke of

b the foldiers w hen Rom e w a s plu ndered u nder Cha rles of

Bou rbon . La il ly , here is a piece of l inen'

m ade of a/be/ior,in w h ich the ancien ts u fcd to w rap the ir dead, tha t, a t the

bu rn ing of them on the funera l p ile, the a ibes and bones

m ight not be difperfcd . T h is kind of l inen is fom etim es

fou nd in u rns and graves and 'fu ch a piece of c loth m ade of

a/befl as, now fhew n in the Ba rberin i ga llery , w as found a t

Pozzuolo ,in the yea r 1 63 Am ong the old prin tedbooks ,

he re is Pl iny's N a tu ra l Hil ory , printed a t Venice in

d Henry the e igh th’s w ork, do Sa cr a m entir, printed on

p a rchm ent, w ith th e king’s ow n figna tu re . On the right

h a nd of this ga llery a re the archives , or ch am ber of records , in

which

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-R O M E .

bafon or bow l, w h ich is fix ty-tw o feet in circum ference, but

is not of one piece . It w as found in a vine-ya rd at pope

Ju liu s the th ird’s v illa , and brought h ither in the tim e of

Clem ent XI. N ear it, in a place w a lled in and covered, a re

kept eight orphy pil lars belon in to it, each of 'wh ich

are of oneb ock .

’l

The fiatues of e il ile and Tiber a re al fovery m uch efieem ed by jud s , a lthe u h ex trem ely dam aged

by tim e : and a groupe of 1 x teen ehil ren p lay ing as it w ere

u pon the body of the N ile , w h ich is in a reclin ing poltu re ,a re m olt of them m u tilated . Som e th ink thefe ch ildren a l

l ude to the fix teen rivers em ptying them felves in to the N ile

bu t I am of opin ion they ra ther feem to l i nify the fix teen

cubits or el ls , to w h ich he ight the N ile m ug} rife to fert il izethe [oil of Egypt : Hence it is that one of the boys , fittingon the ihou lder of the N ile , places a bafket of flowe rs a nd

fru its on the head of the river God . The bafi -relie‘voon th e

pedefia l reprefen ts crocodiles , &c . bu t not (0 elegan t a s if

they had com e from Bern in i’s h and. The fia tu e of the T i

ber leans on the celebrated {he-w olf, w h ich is fa id to h ave

fu ckled Rom u lus and Rem us . T hefe two large an tiqu es

h ave been finely cop ied in w hite m arble , by the artifis m a in

ta ined a t the ex pence of the king of France in the academ yof feu lptu re and pa inting, and a re now to be feen in the

m iddlewa lk in the ga rden of the T u illeries a t Paris . Bu t to

return to the Gia rdino del le An tiche, w here the fam ou sLao

coon m akes a gr and figu re . Som e hold it to be the fa m e

ori'

nal piece tha t flood in the pal ace of th e em peror T itu s ,a n w hich Pliny , (lib. x x x v i. c . {tiles Opu s om nibu s C‘J

’

pifl um'69

’fi a tua rz

'

ee a rtis prafereadum ; 1°

e. a piece prefera

ble to any oth er, w hether of pa inting or fcu lpture .

’He adds ,

E x um Iapide rum U Iiberas dra conumque m irabiles nex u s de eon

fenteu tia’

fecere fa m m i a r

fifices Agefa nder {S

’Polydor us if

enod'

oru s, Rbodiz'

. Tho e ex cellen t a rtifis , Agefander,Polydoru s, a nd Athenodoru s, a ll three na tives ofRhodes ,

joined together to m ake a groupe of Laocoon , h is fon s ,w ith their variety of attitudes , and the tw in ing fe rpen ts

‘

,

ou t of one block of m arble .

’W hether th is piece confiits

of two or m ore blocks pu t togethe r, according to the Op in ion

of Michael Angelo w hen it w as firft found, is a qu eltion :

a nd hence a doubt a rifes , w hether it be th a t m entioned byP l iny , w ho deferibes the rou pe of Laocoon , fire . a s m ade

p u t of one fingle block. u lviu s Urfm us , alfo (peaks of tw o

p ieces of ferpen ts dug u p in the fam e place , w h ich m ay w ith

greater probability be (up be a part ofPliny’s Lao

cm “.

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Com m odu s

11 - 0 M E.

’

i

In th is group Laocoon is"

reprefented in the greatefi agony ,and w ith h is eyes lifted up to heaven . Near h im are h is two

fons w ith the ferpents tw ined abou t them , whp m Virgil teprefents a t fom e difi ance from their father, and ex piring whenhe cam e to their relief. Here a lfo it m ay be obferved how

the anc ient m ail ers , for a m ore advantageous difplay of the irfitil l , fom etim es took the liberty to devi ate both from tru thand na tu re ; for Laocoon and h is fon s , being prieii s , _

cannot

be fu ppofed to appear n aked before a m ul titude of peoplea ttending the facrifice, a s the fcu lptor, in order to heigh ten

the piece , has reprefented them . The principa l figure ,‘viz .

the fath er, h as lofi the right arm , and tha t of pla il’ter or clay

.w h ich h a th been fubti itirted in its room is not to be com pa redto the other parts of the

"

fi atue , either for colou r or w ork

m anih ip ; even Mich ael Angelo h im felfbeing ordered to ex

ecute another arm for this fla tne, is faid defignedly never to

h ave pu t the fin ilh ing ha nd to it.

Here is‘

a Pyth ian Apol lo, the feet and right hand ofw h ich,being lofi , they have been fupplied by others of piai ller

'

, but

th e h ead of th is incom para ble piece is entire, Marcatus tel ls

u s,th a t th is {tat tl e w a s found a t Nettunq in the tim e of J u

l iu s II . and w ha t confiderahly enhances its value is a rep re

fentation of it on a m eda l of Anton inu s Pius . But w ithou tdifpara

gem ent to the beau ty of th is fia tue , it is, in m y opi

nion, urpa lfed by one th at {l ands near it, viz. that of Antinous that em peror

’s favourite

, whichw as found inAdd“ ?bath

’s in the tim e ofLeo X .

Another fia tue w ith a ch ild in its arm s , equally deferves tobe adm ired, w hich by fa m e is thought to be Hercu les, bu tby others , from its ileep countenance, is fuppofed to be de

figned for the em peror om m odus . . O thers w ill have it tobe Sa turn . Here a re a lfo Venu s and Cupid together, w ith

th is in fcription on the pedefi al :

VENBRI J ELI CI s a ea vm SALVST I A .

I

Hew m v rs D . De

Som e conjeél u re this piece to have belonged to the tem pleof Venu s, w hich w as difcovered in the ga rden of Gabriel‘

Ua eca , (fa id so ha ve been anciently the ga rdens of Sal uft

and h is fon Flam inio Vacea’s a ccount of it may be feen in

fa ther Montfaucon’s an tiqu ities . Bu t Saluftia , infiead of

a l luding to the gardens ofSa lu lt, i s, probably , rather the nam e

of a rrow , who in conjunction with Helpidiua, erew

gfid

3

R 0 M E . 2 99th is fia tne. From th is tem ple was taken alfo the tranfparent Tranfparenta la bafi er p illar in the Va tican l ibrary , together w ith feven sag

a“

oth ers of the fam e kind, equ a lly beautifu l , w hich w ere loft in rs“

a t fea , being defigned as a prefent from ca rdina l de Mon te

Politiano to the king of Portuga l . N ex t to thi s is another

Ven u s fi epping ou t of a bath , an adm irable antiq copy'

ofPra x ite l les

’s Venu s of Gu idos , w hich Cedrenu s, in his an

n ale, fay s w as defiroyed in a fire a t Confiantinople . Th isw as fou nd abou t a h undred and eighty ea rs ago under St.Peter

’s and St. Marfellinu s

’s church .

”

lit

he drapery is pa rticu la r ly adm ired in this piece.

Here isa lfo a Jar e fepu lch ral urn dug up in the SeptizonuSeptim u Severi . he figu res are in m ezzo

-relieve,fent on one fide a w om an w ith a child im ploring the em peror

’s

help on the bafe is a ll ave brought before the em peror,another kneeling before h im , and a th ird in fetters . Thefefi gu res, .

as Richa rdfon h as juftly rem arked, bear fom e refem

blance to thofe on Septim ius Severius’s trium pha l arch . The

grea teft pa rt of thefe noble rem ains of antiqu ity {l and againft

the w a ll under a kind of pen t-houfs , in w h ich alfo are kept

fevera l an tiqu e pieces of m ofa ic work, and fom e ancient per

j i nx or m a fque s .

In the little garden near the Belvedere is the celebra ted

brafs p igm r, a vafe, or u rn , w h ich form erly fl ood on Adrian’s

m ole, together w ith fou r peacocks of the fam e m eta l two

ofw h ich a re fa id to h aVe flood on the tom bof Scipio Africa

nus , or on tha t ofMa rcus Au rel ius the confu l . The u rn is

fourteen feet h igh, and was the repofitory of the em peror

Adrian’s a lbes .

In a l a rge cou rt of the Va tican is a founta in w ith an orien

tal granate bafou of ex traordina ry dim enfions, w ith the follow ing infcription on it

ffu liu s I] . P ant . Ma x .

Labrum la t . pedum

A Titi Vdpafm zzi 773877 7s in Ca r ia is

Tempe/ um inju r ié m nfrafi umIn Va tica n“ bor tos a ddu x it 5 pr im am gua

I n j‘brm a m r ej fitu it orna v itgu e.Panza /211 1 1m m 1 . rMDIV.

Th is bafou of tw o h undred and th irty-five feet in diam e

ter, being injured by tim e , and broken in to fevera l pieces ,f. .was brought from the ba th s ofT itus Vefpafian in the {3

6 6

5C Is

300

Ca ll ie OfSt.

Angelo.

R 0 M E .

called Carum in tothe Va tican a rdens, and there reftored

to its form er beau ty , w ith addi tional ornam en ts , by o rde r

of pope Ju l iu s II . in the firft yea r of h is pon tific a te ,1 5043

The w ater of the fpr ing of St. Dam afo is accounted th e

fihefi in Rom e ; the founta in fuppl ied b it form erly fl ood

w ithou t the Vatican ; bu t b order of rban V III . it w a s

brough t w ithin the court an decora ted w ith m arble fcu l ptures , in w h ich the bees , the coa t of arm s of h is fam ily , a re

not om itted.

T h is and th e other founta ins in the cou rts of the Va tica n

are grea tly decayed. T he fam e m ay be obferved of the V a

tican ga rdens in genera l , w h ich form erly h ad fo m any be a u

tifu l as w e ll as u fefu l w a ter-w orks 5 pa rticu larly a very e x tra

ordinary one of a ga lley w h ich threw a rea t qu an tity ofw a

ter a confiderable difiance . The hydra uIic engine for p lay ingon the organ w as prefen ted b Benedict XIII . to the Dom i

n ican convent. It is indee not a t a ll {trange tha t pope

{hou ld be little cu riou s abou t th eir ga rdens , as they a re of a

decrepit age , w h ich de l ights m ore in refi th an w alking be

fides, foc ex pences are fo m uch m oney funk, wh ich cannot

be transferred to their rela tion s .

As the Va tican pal ace joins on one fide to St. Pe ter’s

chu rch , on the other fide a colonade leads from it to the

caftle of St. Angelo . Th is pa lace w a s bu ilt by pope Alex

ander VII . w hofe m em o is not m u ch revered : how ever,it w as of grea t fervice to

l

zlem en t VII . w hen the city w a s

fu rprifed in the ear I 52 7, by the im perial a rm y for one of

the folders firedya t him a s h e w a s runn ing a long this pafl

’

a e,

to take fhelter here . This caftle w a s form erly th e burisplace of the Rom an em perors , w h ich , after Auguftu s

’s m a u

foleum on the other fide of the T iber w a s fil led w ith u rns,

the em peror Adria n bu ilt for h im felf and h is fucceflom

h ence it acqu ired the nam e ofMoles Hadrian i . The la rge

rou nd tow er in the cen ter ofth is edifice w as form er] adorned

with a confiderable num ber of m a rble pilla rs and,

fl a tu s s ;bu t m oft of them w e re broken to piece s by th e Rom an s

them felves , w ho m ade u fe of them to defend them felves

aga inft the Goth s , w hen they afra u lted the city as m ay be

read a t large in Procopiu s and Ba ron iu s . On the top of itflood the pigna , now in the Belvedere garden s . T he citybeing v ifited w ith the peftilence in the re ign of G regory the

Grea t ; in a genera l procefiion where the pictures of the Vir

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R 0 M E;itbe ing cufioth ary for the populace at Rom e, upon thedem ifeof a pepe,

-to m ake a nera l goa l-delivery . W hen a pope is

given over by h is ph teians, fuch perfons a s have been comm itred for any flagrant crim e, or thefe from whom any dan

ger is apprehended, are rem oved hither, w here no {h angersa re adm itted[Ede vacante. On the top is a pedefta l, w hereA drian

’s pigna fl ood, the place of wh ich is now fupplied b

a n angel ofwh ite m arble, abou t twelve feet high , the wdrkofMontelupo. On the pla tform are four brafs cannon , one

of w h ich u een Chriftina , b w ay offrol ic, fired aga inft the‘

ace of edicis on the Li mte Fincio, w here the m a rk ofth e ba l l is {til l to be feen in an iron door . The ex pence offee ing th is caftle is abou t four or five ‘pa ali In going to it,on e pafl

'

es over the nobl ebridge, an ciently cal led Pons l Elius .In the w a from the city tow ards th is bridge are to be feenm m arb e fl a tu s of St. Pe ter and St. Pa ul , erected by C h

m ent VII.The firfi is the work ofLorenzetti, and the other

of PaoloRom ano, and w ere eredte'

dby Clem ent VII . in the

yea r t 534. Pope Clem ent IX. not only em ployed Bern inii n enla rging the avenu e to th is bridge, bu t adorned it w ith tenfi a tues of fo m an angels, done from the defigns of that cclebra ted a rtii’t. hey are al l bigger than hum an figures, andex ecu ted by the m ofl:em inent h ands of th at

'

age . The finfl:ange l on the right is the work ofAn ton io Raggi ; th e fecond

angel is by Fancell i ; the th ird b Lucenti ; the fou rth byFerra ta the fifth b Dim em icoGu idi ; the fix th b Giot

getti , reckoned thebelt of all the ten ; the feventh,y Ber.

n in i him felf; the eighth by Paolo N a ldin i ; the ninth by the

fam e artifi ; and the tén th by Morell i. .Th is m unificence of

Clem ent IX. is perpetuated in the follow ing infcription

Two (killings, or half a crown.

304

S . Pietro in

R 0 M E .

To Clem ent IX. the greateft and belt of popes, whoadorned the JElian bridge, nea r the cattle of St . An e lo,w ith the fiatues of angels ex hibiting the m yfteries 0 ou r

preciou s redem ption ; and ordered (fuch w as h is hum il ity )tha t nei er his nam e nor arm s ihould be placed on th is n oble wor that the m em ory of fuch ex traordinary genero

fity and ificence m igh t not be .loft, pope Clem en t X.

caufed this onum ent to be erea ed in the year

m m n u m efl eeee zw em uem fl m

L E T T E R LI .

Conclufion of the A ccou nt of religiou s Edifices ,and the Pope

’s Palaces in Rom e .

"Now return to the principal chu rches and religiou s ediI fices at Rom e ; a nd the nex t in a lphabetica l order is S .

Pietro in Vincol i. Upon enterin this church , on the righ t

hand a re tw o fine m onu m ents o the cardina ls Margotti and

Agucchi, both defigned by Dom en ich ino ; w ho alfo pa inted

St. Peter’s del iverance ou t of prifon , in the fecond ch ape l .

Here is a tom b of pope Ju liu s II . il ill em pty , h is body beingdepofi ted in the ca thedra l of St. Peter . The w hole is worthyofMichael Angelo ; bu t the fi atu e of Mofes in a fitting a tti

tude cannot be fufiiciently adm ired. Th is m onu m ent {till

rem a ins unfiniih ed. Som e of the fl a tnes are by Montel upo,a difciple ofMichael Angelo, and Wou ld m ake no m ean ap

pearance, w ere they not in com pany w ith th a t e x qu ifite one

of Mofes . Here is a lfo the tom b of cardinal Vecchia rell i,w here the fine black and w h ite m arble, ca lled Broca tello,and the large larcophagu s of one piece of black m arble, a re

w ell worth feeing .

The m onum ent ofcardinal Cynth ioAldobrandin i is a noble

piece by Le Gros, and thofe w ho are no connoill'

eurs in

fcu lptu re cannot bu t be pleafed w ith the noble fa rcophagu s of

n ino Orien ta le, not un like brow n a te w ith w hite

fi reaks , on this m onum en t. On the left frde of the a ltar nearthe door, is a iece of pa intin by the celebrated Albert

Durer, of the threeMarys at ifi’s .fepulchre. Oppofite

to

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306 s o m e .

fo ‘n embraced the Chriil ian fa ith . If this be true, th is

church m a proper ly cla im the honou r of Being the fu ll in

th is capitafiI

of th e Rom an em pire . Before the church door{l and tw o w h ite tw ifted pillars brought h ither from Agrip

pina’s ba th . Before the Capella del Gaetan i {l and fou r

fia te l p illars of gia lla entire, w hich form erly belonged to

Diocl'

efian’s w a rm ba th s . Over the entrance, and in the

roof of the cha pel, is fom e good m ofaic w ork; and elbecial lya fine piece by Rofetti, w h ich

ow ns defigned by Zttccat‘o,

r'

eprefen ting St. Pudentiana gathering up the blood'

, heads ,‘

and bones of the m artyred Ch’

rifti'

ans . Th e pavem ent is

finely defigned, and, fer m arble and inlaid work, it m ayvie w ith the m oft bea u tiful in a ll Rom e. The arch itect w as

Francefco di Volter’

ra . Th’

e incom pa rable W h ite m arble

bafi -reliew on the a lta r, of the adoration of th e three kings ,w as begun by P . Paolo Olivieri, and after h is death fin ifhed

b Mariani. The other fia tues are a lfo

(In one fide of the a lta r {l and two pillarsm drm are pedéccbi

‘ofo ar ienta le, twelve p ain t

.

in height, whichfor beau ty h ave ew equ al s .

Having d efcribed the Va tican, tbg’etber. w ith St'

. Peter’s

church , I {ha ll here give an account of the other papa l place onthe Qu irinal m oun t or m ate Cam illa, w h ich for the

pu rity of its a ir, and fine profpeé’t over a large part of the

ofRom e, is preferable to the form er .* On the grea t

a rea before it are two horfes of an uncom mbn fize, in m ar

ble, w ith tw o m en lead ing them : Th‘

ey W ere e’

reéted byFontana in the tim e of Six tu s V . and are fa id to be done

y tw o different m a il ers , wh o {trove ,to ou tvie each etherin reprefen ting Al ex ander the Grea t and his hoffe Bucephau s . Confi an tine the G rea t is fa id to have brough t them

pu t ofGreece , and pla ced them in his ba th s on the Q l lri-o

nal m oun t. Under one of them are thefe werds

oP Vs P H I D 1 1 3.

The work of Phidias .’

fi nd‘

under the other

.

The fit uation of the Vatican w as alw ays unhealthy , infom uch thatTau rus ca lls it 54m ; Va tica a i later. 4m m }. lab. l l .

308 R O M E .

qui [m arflr im ur iw a nt

88 . Ape/105m m :

This piece is the work of Meloti, a na tive of Forl i,w ho, if not the inventor, greatly im proved the a rt of

pa inting ceilings in

[ft/20, and w as brough t h ither from

the church of the oly Apoftles in the year

Paol in This {l a ir-cafe leads to the

pope

’s apa rtm ent on the left

a lah and, and on the right is the Paolina, a fpacious li h t

ha ll w ith a very bea u tifu l pavem ent, and adorned w ith e

pa intings . The Paolina chapel is alfo w orth feeing, as it

m uch ex ceeds the Capella Paolina in the Va tican . In

w ing a re al fo the apa rtm en ts in w hich the kings of N aples

ufed to lodge in their w a through Rom e . In the la rge

ga llery are a collection fcriptu ra l hiftory pieces painted

y the bell m ail ers , from the tim e ofGregory XIII . toUr

ban VIII . w ith fom e m odels of bu ildings , anti ue bu il d s ,a nd a

'

beautiful little p'

ram id of an uncom m on lione, w itha bafe of lapir lazu li . Fibre I obferved the fam e kind of ch a irs

a nd benches as I had feen in the Va tican, ex cepting, th a t

the fee bein now vacant, th e deceafed pope’s arm s had been

cfl'

aced. Tghe pope

’s apa rtm ents are fpaciou s and lofty, a nd

gloriou s profpeét the hangings are of red dam afk,rich ly adorned w ith gold lace, &c. In a clofet here is an

adm i rable piece of the anu nciation, in Florentine w ork,furrounded w ith fefioons of flow ers ;

‘ it w as a prefent to the

pope from the great duke of Florence . In the audience

cham ber is a piece of the defcent from the crofs , of am ber

fet in ebony and lapir lazuli . In the pope’s private cha pe l

are fom e paintin s by Gu ido .Rhen i, who has furpall'

ed h im

felf in a piece ofthe anuncia tion . In the pope’s bed-cham

ber, and clofe to the bed, h angs an m e hom o, by Alba n i ,w hich nothing can ex ceed, who has alfo iven ihm e f cim ens

of his fltill in the above-m entioned chape Under e clock,and facing the ga rden, is a fine piece in m ofa ic, of the Vir

'

n Mary , w ith the infant j efu s , w hich w as placed there

y Innocent XII . It w as del igned by Ca rlo Maratti. Inthe cotyylar ioé

i crrra, or fecret confifiory , is a capital pieceby ,Pietro di ortona of the angel bindin the dragon , a s

m entioned in the apocalyp l'

e. It is a nolfie perform ancebut

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Niches for

the gods.

R O M B.

diery-ln tum ulm ous tim es ; and that its m olt va luable flames

and other ornam ents w ere ca rried aw ay by Confiantius to

Confiantinople . How ever,‘

in the tim e of p0pe UrbanVIII ; there {till rem a in ed a veil quantity of brats abou t it

bu t that e h ad it m elted down for the filperbal tar in the

earliedralpgf)

8t. Peter and (om e pieces of ca nnon for the

ca ll-le of St. Angelo. How he cam e to (para the large

bronze ga tes , “fi nd ! are e ighteen feet fou r inches broad, andthirty

-fix feet high, is fom eth ing ex traordinary , as he had afa ir pretence for rem oving them on account of their difpro

portion to the building they be ing in a l l appearance at firfl;deftgned for fa m e othe r edifice. On this occafion Paktu inobferved, Quad non

'

fl cer xm t Barba r i Rom e , fi cit Ba rber in i.That Barba rini dealt w orfe w ith Rom e than ever the Barbarians did.

’Over the door w ith in this edifice i s the fol

low ing infcription

Pa ntheon,

celeberr im um

Bim'

r nal ra mpa ni fl i t ufmTu rr ibw ax

'

q'

m it,Et nov a

The Pa ntheon, a firufture celebra ted throughout thew hole world firfl p rofanely dedicated to Jup iter and a llthe fa lfe gods, by Agrippa , fon-in -law to the em peror

Augufl us, and a fterwards pioufiy confecrated to the m o »

ther of God , and the holy Chril’tian m artyrs, by pope

Boniface 11 11 . is new :~adorned w ith two tow ers , &c . at

the e x pence of pope Urban VIII . in the year of Chrifi1 632 , and the ninth of his pontificate .

’

The niches fi ill rem a ining thew , th at this tem ple for.m erly conta ined th e fi a tu es of the ods ; and from Pliny ,lib. or. c. 35 . it appears , that the flam e of Venus in the

'

Pantheon had a pair of ear-rings m ade of the pea rls that

gCleOpatra

31 3 R 0 M E .

D . O. MF . Urbina t.

Sacred to God, the grea tefi and belt of Beings , and to

the m em ory of tha t adm irable pa in ter Raphael banétio d’

Urbino, w hofe brea th ing figures thew the happieft combination of art and gen iu s ; who, by h is im m orta l works

as a painter and arch iteé’t, added a lu ltre to the rei ns of

the popes Ju liu s II . and Leo X. He l ived ex aétlyShirt-y(even years com plete, w ith an unblem ilhed repu tation

‘

;

and died on the 6th day of April, being the anniverfaryofh is birth , in the year 1 520

i

This epitaph -w as com pofed b Cafa , and the followm gdifiicb-

u nder it, which“

m ay w l be ca lled lindtm in pm ,

by cardinal Bem ho

Rerum m agm a

Th is dill ich t ingen ioully tranllated intoItalian by Edlori, in thefe twb

'

verfes

Que/15 2qua] Rafa da cu: m m 0m mEfiér tem coNa tw

‘

a , 2

Mr . Pa pe, the celebrated Englilh-‘

poet, w as (0 pleatedw ith the thought, , that he has infefted it,

-

w ithout any a l

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31 8 R o M E.

St . Dom in ic, after m ifi ng his th row at the three deem :

kings ofCologne . In the bouven t is a lfo ‘lhewn Dm in ie'

s

a l l, and in the ga rden an orange-tree of that faint

’s ow n

fl ash ing .

La Sup ieni a is the publ ic univerfity, in w h ich are no le t'

s

th an thirty pm fefl'

ors , but few fi udm ts 5 theH u itsbeing ev eryw here the m onopolizers of the edu cation of you th. It is a

(lately Rp are edifice , w ith cloy'fiers and a lleries, and W a s

built from a defign ofMichna An ge llo. or the m a in exi

tl'

anCe is this ex celien t infcriptidn in capita ls

INITIVM SAPIENTIE T I‘MOR DOMINI .

The fear of the Lord is the beginning of w ifdom .

’

The tow er is of a very ex traordin fig ure , the upper

part of it being bu ilt in a fpiral line . n th e library is a

(tattle, by Dom en ico Gu idi, of the m unificen t founder,

pope Alex ander VII . who alfo p refen ted the u niverfi ty w ith

a very va lu able phyfic-garden . In th is college the regu lar

dea th s in the three lea rnedprofefi ons ofDivin ity, Law , and

Phyfic, are im 'efted w ith feveral degrees , and rece ive t heir

diplom a’s . Beiides thofe fciences , here are a lfo taugh t rhe

torick, philofophy , ecclefrrdtica l h ifiory, m atheinatim , and

architeéture ; as likew ife the Hebrew , Gha ldean, Syriac,A rabic, Greek, and other langu ages , a ll gr a tis. In the

Univerfity-d mrch is an a lter iece, reprefenting St. Yvone ,

the patron of the ‘

poor, dlfh'iguting a ltns . It is accou nted

the m ailer-pi ece of Pietro di Cortona , though it w a s fin iih

ed by G iov . Ventura , one of h is difciples , a fter h is dea th

Ciro Ferri is fa id to have p a in ted the lower pa rt of it . The

figu res appear as big as the life , and the p iece is fa id to

h ave cof’t th ree thou fandfi udi, or Crowns .

S . Sebafiiano a lle Catacom bs , or a ) la Via A'

ppia , is one

of the (even principa l churches at Rom e . The pillars of

the a lta r-pie ce a re of fiver-dc antico here is a m a li (plend id

ch apel dedicated to tha t fa int, w ith h is {tattl e in wh ite m ar

ble, by Antonio G iorgetto, a m onk . Here a re a lfo to be

feen fom e pa in tings infrq/Eo, by Antonio Caracei .

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R 0 M E .

In Anacreon'

s firfl:ode are thefe words,

Adieu to heroes &c.

’

So that un ueftionable x cugi m utt fom etim es immy the m o:

r na of adieu ! farew el l Gre.

The lgfubterraneous pa llages have a com m unicationone another, which m akes them very intricate ; bu t here

are {tones let u in the m iddle to direct travellers in th eir

return . To vi It every pa rt of the catacom bs w ould be a

w alk of no lefs than twenty Ital ian m iles , as appears from a

plan of them in the convent, w hich agrees w ith the c0pper

plate of the catacom bs in Aringhi’sRom ,

Sabra -f am e w he re

a lfo are tobe feen draughts of the catacom bs of St. Herm es,

St . Pa ireraoe, St. Agnes, St. Agatha , St. Lucin a, dcc .

E one of thefe ca tacom bs, and m any others , to th e

num r of thirty , have a ll their fubterraneous pafl'

ages or

ga lleries of fuch an ex ten t, that the length of them all,taken together, is com pu ted to be

m iles ; , but the are fo far from be ing kept every w here in

fuch good repair, as thofe of St. Sebafiian , th at not a few

of them are w alled u p ; feveral perfons havin been bew il

dred in thofe labyrinths and pen fh ed'

there . s lides Aringhi’s account, in the year t 720 another w a s publifhed a t

Rom e, entitled Oj erw zz'

oni j bpra i Cim m r i de’[anti Mar

i irz'

U a nticbi Cbr tfi ibn’

i Rom a , in two volum es , folio .

Though it be m anifefi, that great num bers of Chriltiansare interred here , it is by no m eans a confequ ence tha t th efefubterraneous eaverm were origina lly the work

—

ofChrifln'

ans ,

or that they ferved them for. retreats in the tim e of ecu

tion . Not to m ention the writ difproportion of fu w orks

to the fm ail num ber of Chriftians where could the m anythoufand cart-loads of earth or fi nd, taken ou t of th e cat

p com bs, have been carriedaw ay w ith futh privacy as to ef

ca the norice of the hea then ? Even granting that theians w ere fo pol ite as to difpofe of the fand in fm all

quantifies to th e inhabitants of the city for dom efi ic u fes ,and that from hence th got the nick-nam e of Arenarii

y et grea t num bers of e poorelt hea thens , who al fo fold

fand, cou ld not bu t know from w hence the Chrifl'ians procured fuch of it, and would certa inly have dug;ve

R O M E .

vered their com petitors in trade . Ofw ha t u fe cou ld pa lfages ,fevera l leagues in length , be to the Chrifiia ns w hen their

num ber w a s (0 fm all ? And w hen the Chrifi ians becam e fu

perior to the pagans, both in nu m ber and pow er, there w as

no need of fecret retreats and fubterraneou s bu ing-

places .

Suppofe, that in the tim es of the perfecutions ,

l

t y or fix tythoufand Chriltians h ad {heltered them felves in thefe ca

verns , how cou ld they be fupplied w ith provifions, or pr'

e

ferve them felves from con ta ious diftem pers a m ong fu ch a

num ber of dead bodies ? T e few fm a ll apartm ents difper

fed u p and down in thefe catacom bs are laid to have been

pecu l ia rly appropriated for religious w orlh ip ; bu t as theyhave bu t one entrance , and th at very narrow ,

° I am at a 106to find room there for a congregation . Befides , w ith whatfpec iou s pretences w ou ld it have fu rn ifhed the heathens to

reproa ch the Chrifi ians , w hen , a t lafi th ey h ad found ou t

that fo m any thou fands ofboth fex es had pafi'

ed a confident:

ble tim e 'together in fuch obfcure m anfions Anthony Ul~

ric, duke of Brunfw ic W olfenbuttle, in his Oétavia , has

given a very enterta ining account of the catacom bs, and ofthe p rim itive Ch rifiia ns

’m anner of living in thefe recefi

'

es

bu t the pleafing idea tha t rom ance gives u s of thefe fubter

raneou s dw ellings foon van ilh es , w hen a perfon advances

bu t few Reps in the ca tacom bs a t Rom e . . Thofe a t N aples,indeed, are

° loftier and broader, w ith very fpacious apart-4

m en ts , and confequ en tl are m uch better adapted to the ,

p'

urpofes m entioned in t at prince’s poem but then the

v ery m agnificence of thofe works m akes it the m ore im pro

bable th at they w ere undertaken by a poor perfecu ted fet of

people, w hww ere far from being num erou s , and w ere 04

liged to carry on'

allf their m eafures w ith the utm ofl fccrecy .

After a ll, it w ill , upon due ex am ination , u nqueftion ably W hat theappear, that the ca tacom bs ofRom e were origina lly n oth in

“ tw

in“

elfe bu t the Puticu li, m em ioned Horace, Varro, an $22?7

Fefi us Bum peius w here, at firli , on y the bodies of flaves ,’

and of fuch w hofe circum ltances w ou ld not p erm it theirfriends to be at the ex pence of bu rn ing them on a funera l

pile , w ere depofited. The digging up ofpuzzola rza , ah kindof (and m uch u fed in m aking m ortar for bu ilding, ofwhichth ere are va it firata in m any pa rts of Ita ly , m ay h ave givenrife to th is ex pedient for burying the dead, as it a nfw eredborh pu rpofcs , In procefs of tim e

, perfons of a‘higher cla fs

‘

came to be ih'

terred‘ in thefe caverns ; a : the Rom ans, even

2

324 R 0 M E .

before Chrifiianity got the better of heathenifm , intothe practice of burying their dead. Th is is evi n t fromfeveral ancient m onum ental infcriptions to be (een in the ca

tacom bs , w h ich, not only begin w ith the Letters D . M .

by fom e w riters interpreted to denote DeoMa x im o ; buteven w ith D iz

’sManibw at fu l l length, w h ich would h ave

been profane, and never perm itted on a Chriftian’s tom b.

Such w as the {tone found in the ca ta com bs of St. Sebaitian,which i s now to be feen in Kircher

’s m ufeum , w ith this ih

fcription very legible on it

Du : Manibur.

gm 01 t am

0

Th is I once alledged to a learned Jefu it, as an objectionagainft the com m on notion, that only Chrifiians are buried

here . His anfw er w as , that it m ight probably be ow ing to

the ignorance of the prim itive Chtifiians , w hobeing unacuainted w ith the m eaning of the charaéters D. M. or D ii:

am’

bur, bu t finding it on a m u ltitude of other tom b-fiance,m ade u fe of them , W i thou t an fa rther ex am ination, on thofeof their deceafed friends ; e pecially as they t fancythat m a ne: had fom e relation to am

'

m e , or fouls . abil lon

alfo thinks, th at after the efiablifhm ent of Chriitianity , the

Chriltians took aw ay the tom b-(tones from the graves of

th e pagans, and placed them on thofe of others of their ow n

religion . Th is reafon m igh t appea r pla u iible if the {boneshad been va lu able for the ir orn am en ts , &c. Bu t a s thefe

{tones are very ordinary , and w ithou t ornam ents , and th einfcriptions had] done, I cannot fee w hy a Chriftian Ihou ldh ave iven h im elf the trouble to

”

fearch for a hea then ifh epi

taph or his child ; and he m uft have been r indeed not

to be able to procu re as, good a {tone vw i an infcription

agreeable to his religion . The other a rgum en t m ight a lfo

be of (om e we igh t, h ad the Ch rifi ians been ftrangers to th e

language and religion of the ancient Rom ans, and never

hea rd of fuch w ords as D ii Manés and fuppofina firange i norance and dulneis they confoundedMane: w i J a im e , I beg leave to a ik, W hat ideas theannex ed to Fara , Dom ur x term I mperatorz

’

r, and th e like

ex preflions no leis frequently to be m etwith here on tom b

ilones 1 W hy did they not m ake ufe of thefe words a lfo, if

they9 t

,

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a s

The crofsnet pecu l i ar

toChriftian

tom bd im es

R’

O M E;

epiilie to"

the Thefi'

alonians , forbids them to’

bew ail thedea th ofChrifkians , l ike hea thens w ho w ere {bangers to the

anim a ting hope of a refu rreétion ; {0 th at it is net to he fa ppofed tha t the fu rviving friends am ong believers m a de fu ck

a :parade of their tea rs , or hired fu éh wom en m ou rners, of

whom Horace fays,

Ur, qua: cm da fl x plorant

HORo Art. POét . . V0 431 0

As h irelings, pa id'

:for their funera l tear,I -w eep th e forrow s of a friend fineere .

’

In tu rning over Le

on e a n y fee , in the p lates of the u rns brought out of the

cata com bs , a bove forty . w h ich a re m anifefi l and

are eafily diftlngu ifil able from . thofe w h ich e ghriftians ;by

°

an indifcrrEet , im itation of the heathen oerenionim , placedhr the cats-Combs. Th e la tter, i nfiead of fom e vfalfe d

'

eity‘

,

m arked theirs w ith the c ypher of the words Jefu s Chriftor a dove, as the em blem of candou r, m ildnefs, and inno

cence‘

; or w ith the figure of Ch rifi as a fhephcrd, w ith a

(beep on hit onlders or w ith Noah’s ark, W ith

-

the dove

or Jonah .caft .out of the w hale , and the like. .Thefe are

m ore unexceptionable proofs o f their being placed here byChriftians , than the lingle m a rk of a crofs above , ,

the epi

taph ; for this , a ccording toMontfa ucon , is a lfo found on

Egyptian and Etrufcan m onum ents evidentl of a date prior

to the pafl ion of ou r Saviou r. The old greek T , w h ich

denoted a cqu ital w hen crim inals were tried, in fom e m ea

fure refem bled a crofs . A thanafius Kircher, in h is P rado

m us Captur, fhew s , that am ong the Egyptians , Indians , andPerfians , the crofs w a s an hierogl ph ie denoting the fou r

elements 5 a nd from Rufinus’s Eeezefiafi ical Hill ary; 3ib.

‘

n .

Socra tes; Bow m an , and Suidas n on the word,m e c,

it pla in] appea rs, am ong the Egyptian s , to h ave j ign'

ed

e ternal life and fuch m arks w ere found in th e tem ple s of

Serap is." Oh fom e'

ancient'Egyptian m onum ents are to"

be

{een three croffes {l anding horizontal l bu t it would be ri

diculously ) , (uppp fe that they‘

fignified’

the.erotics of C iv il}an

R O M E .

“m ercuric , lib. iii. c. 1 8 . m entions fuch a figm to have

been ufed am ong the Arabians as an em blem of the influ

ence of the fl ats . The ham m er of the god Thor, fo fre

quently m entioned in the an tiqu ities of the north ern na e

tions , (0 nw ly refem bled the fign of the crofs , that one w as

taken for the Other . Reevh ielm has publ iihed a particu lar

differtation of the crofs on Runic ftones .

It bein clear from w hat has been fa id, that the catacom bs

w ere the uria l-places both of heathens and Chriftians , thek“

papa l infa ll ibility {tands im peached w ith bavin pronounced th,, " a ,

a l l th e bones found there to be holy reliques . ow lam ent~

able is the credu lity of the people, in receiving fuch bones

as th ings of inefi'im able valu e, fetting them in gold and ii]

ver , andppa ing them religiou s adora tion, w hen it is odd:

bu t they onged to form : heathen flave , rather than anyChriitian m artyr ! _

So early as the tim es of St. Jerom and

Augufiin ,’the m onks had begun to dea l in reliques but

th is vaft fund of holy chea ts w a s either not thought of, or

prudently abfi ained from , as the fa lfity of any fuch pretencew ou ld then have been too notoriou s , and probably prejundiced the w hole trade . St . Jerom , in his com m entary on

Ezekiel , tha t w hen he w a s a boy he ufed tom anfnons of the dead, and

h im felf thefe w ords in Pfal .l iv . Th go down hell, i . c. the grave ; and

the followm g verfe in

And filence adds to th’horror of the gloom .

’

Cardina l Fleury, afterw ards prim e m inifter ofFrance, inThat theyh is Manners of the prim itive Chriftians , afiirm s , on the a:

” t.

c redit of Bofi’s Rom a Subterranea , tha t Confiantine the w as

”:

G reat, from a principle of devotion , th a t the rem a ins of the m odern

firft m artyrs m ight not be difiurbed and profaned, ordered m

the catacombs to be {but up ;"

and tha t it w as towards thed ofe of the fix teenth centu ry befo

and Opened

ga in ; bu t this is a palpab

m yfelf obferv fevera l infcriptions in the

75d . m tg-af firm lib. dc spare m 5. or. 33. Ladov im Aurelia: {11

a n. 305, p. 6a , 14 4: 3, God . dc SS Err].

“

sag R o n r.

to be of fiu

8 . Silveflm

the vau l t under the church , is airgin Mary, w ith th is h uge infcription

By the: thfi Trin ity is M ifid . mi te .’

Ingm vau lt where st. Silvefier is (a id to have,

fpent tea

inCapites are {om eTerenu

'

o d’Urbino,

is severed w ith finedifciples The p ic

9051501 0“sht face of cm . which, if Eu bias m ay becredited, our Saviour him felf was pleated to m ake on 3

pi e ofwh ite 18 1W , and protected to Aghzm w, whom thatfa er fl iles icing ofEdella .

The ch u rch sf St. Silvefi er, thou b it has five popes onits is not without a

‘

rival, wbiAm i

pretends toba e Johnthe Bapti fl

’3 head , th e people ofAm iens in France m a in

is in th e irh is w h ile

defam e of

cm . and:dello

Spirits in

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89° R; o M E .

UrM ore ?»w krudin

1 1m m m ica:M am a tampon

To Alex ander VII . the greatefi and belt of pepe s ,w ho ih ew ed a tender care for the hea lth of the bodies , a s

w ell as tru e paltora l v igilance for the fa lvation of the fou ls

of thofe com m itted to his charge, and gave th is hofpita l

the privilege of placing chains crofs the road adjoin ing to

it, that the neife of pali'

engers m igh t not difi urb the re

pole of the patients , to w h ich filence (0 m uch con tri

bu tes , in the year of Chrifi 1 66 1 , and the fix th of h is

pontifica te.

’

A

fi

fl

fl

S. Stefano Rotondo, now united to theG erm an college

of St. Apollinaris , is in ofed to be bu ilt on the (pot where

an ancient tem ple of aunus flood . There is a fine colo

nade of m arble pil lars qu ite round the'

infide of this chu rch

the al tar fiands detached in the center, and the tabernacle ism ade of cyprefs-w ood, in the o ihape of a tow er ; it w as in

gen ioufly carved by a baker, w ith no other tool than a pen

kn ife . Som e fay he faved his l ife, w hich he had forfeited ,b —:ex ecuting th e curious piece ; but the fblloiwing infcription clears him from any fuch im pu tation

in Urbe P50” , taberna w

licea t ej u: Rel ief-i in

m m j udicam ri'

t, dieXIX

John Zentner, a baker in this city, ou t of regard tohis country, prefented the Germ an colle

ge w ith this ta

bernacle, the work of his own hands , an placed it here ,

(w ith

R’

O M E .

i (w ith th is provifo, that the reétor of the college,ev er he th inks it neceflhry , m ay rem ove it into the college

ch apel ) the 1 9th day of Janu ary ,

F a ther Ga llonio, in h is w ork dc Cm iariburMa r-9m m ,

inferta a particu la r defcription of the pa inting on the w all

of th is ch u rch by N icolao Pom‘

arancio, reprefentin the

tortu re s q ered by the prim itive m artyrs under the fi ten

perfecu tions . Am ong the other paint'

m gs‘

to be feen here,the m a llacre of the Innocents by An tonio Tem pefia , on the

left-h and at the entrance , is h ighly citeem ed.

Near the chu rch is another round edifice called 8 . Stefa

no al le Carozze, or the chu rch of Madonna del Sole . It

affords noth ing rem arkable bu t the learned cannot agree,w h ether it w as anciently the tem ple ofVolu pia , Vefia, or

of the fun .

331

8 . Stefano

alle Carou e

St . Sufanna has a St. Sunn i .

dem o , bu t is da rkiCroce and Nebbia a re alw ays viewed wthe top of this chu rch are the ft

i

litiel , Daniel , Ifaiah, and Jerem iah , inoldo .

Before St. Theodore’s church liands a lhort th iCk pil lar, “writ of

or a pagan alta r and fa rm/brim . Here a lfo w as dug upthe brafs {he-w olf, now to be feen in the capitol ; hence

th is has been nera lly fuppofed to have 3m the tem ple of

Rom u lu s and em us . It feem s the heathens ufed to bringthe ir ch ildren h ither and rub them againlt the fia tu es of

thofe tw in-brothers , w ho had been fo m ira cu loullyferved and fuperfii tious m idw ives and m others , after theeltablifhm en t ofChrifl ian ity , could not be preva iled upon

to depart from th is,cu liom ; How ever, to reform , in [om e

m eafure, this abufe , th is tem ple w as confecrated to St.

Theodore ; and, to th is day , a articu lar m afs is faid hereevery T h u rfday ; after w hich , ickly ch ildren a re brought

to the‘

a ltar, w here a m onk. lay s h is hand Upon them , and

firokes their faces w ith a relique of St. Theodore, and by'

virtue‘

of this cerem ony the c h ild is certa inly ex pe&ed to’

die or recover by the Thurfday follow ing. ,W hatever:happens

I t is greatly to be lam ented, tha t even in the“

Evangelica l churches,any rem nants of ancient fu

°

tion ihou ld be found. Nothing is m ore

eormnon, than a grofi a in the adm inifiration of the eucharifl:tofieldor

Rom ulus

andRenaud.

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R 0 M E .

tefi ant countries , or even in France, run from church to

ch urch , and take

loft labour, and e 18

qu ite otherw ife ; for the rel igious edifices are, as I t w ere,

[0 m any theatres, ex hibiting a ll the bea uties of arch iteétu re,

pa in ting, and fculpture, to the fpe&ator’s view . As for in

fcriptions befides the pleafure w hich an elegant com peti

tion gives the reader, they often ferve to clear u p feveral

pa ir in civil , literary , or eccleliafiical hiftory ; and who

ever 9 no tafie for thefe,in the tour of Italy .

m a m m w am

L E T T E R'

LII.

Of the m olt rem arkable Piazzas or Areas, Bridges,Gates, Palaces, &c. in Rom e .

RAVELLERS who have the leak m ile for arts andfciences m eet w ith fo m any things in Rom e to a t

traft their curiofity, that they m ay nafs their tim e aw ayW ithout having recourfe to frivolous diverfions, debauche

ries , or idle com pany . The variety of objeéts da ily to be

(een here) . afi'

ond fu fi cient topics for converfa tion in coffee

houfes and publieplaces fo tha t ribaldry and double outm

dr es, w hich a re, perhaps , to oung people m ore prejudicialthan grofs obfeenity , do not 0 frequently offend the ea r asin France . To this the difpofition of the inhabitants does

not a little contri bute ; for, a llow ing the Ita lians to ex ceed

other na tions in voluptu oufnefs , and particularly in fa m e

deteftable vices, yet they obferve m ore fecrecy , and never

pubh'

lh ab'

road their own infam y , as is cufiom ary w ith the

French , . till the decline of life teaches . them better : and thisthey do w ith fuch efi

'

rontery as to boaft of 60m m M um s,

as their term is , w h ich never fell to their (hare . his to-s

pic is often carried fo far, even . in public]: afl'

em bl ies , as to

pu t a:m odeft foreigner out of countenance, efpecially w hen

he hears the ladies joining in the . m irth, and difplaying theirfprightlinefs in ex preflions , little eonfrfient w ith the m odcityof th e fex 3 for there are very few .of them tha t w ould not

“the:be thought to want Virtue than wit. This liberti o

335

336

Pa laces and

m anner of

l iving of theI ta lian no

hility.

d ifpu te,

R O M E.

ni’

firi tinhepphy td tes (o with young travell ers, that they look

upon it as the chief arcotnphihm ent which they are to ac-x

qu ire in France ; and, indeed, at Rom e, the young gen tlenien Who com e from Paris are as we ll known a s a bird is byits ‘ note . I can w ith great truth afi rm , that the genera l comverfa tion atRom e is le is offenfilv

'

e andm ore infi rufi ive, than

in m ofi oth er tea t cities . I have here m et w ith fevera l perfi

fons

3:3ted in til

;ifciences and polite arts , who often

163! to van sous and entertainin ~dif nih-r

fizz: but “ swan gist?»rife to two partiesg; age of

which , for painting, fcu lpture, and architecture, prefers theancient artifis ; the other declaring for the m odem . The

con trovex

gydoes not ex tend to other fciences ; for w e never

hethet Ta lfo, Petrarch , Sannazarius, Gtia rini ;A rioito, Marino, Dante, fire . or Vir il, Ovid, Horace ; {

u

vena l, Propertiu s , &c. w ere the beg poets ? or, w het er

G u iccia rdini, de Thou , Bem bo, Fre 1 , Strada , Dav ila ,Bentivogl io, w ere better h iftorians th an ivy , Tacitu s , Sa id

lu ik, Florus ? are . Bu t Zen a , Apel les , Protogenes ,‘ &c .

a re brought upon the carpet-againit Ra phael , Titian , Dom e.

n ichino, the Caracci’s , &c. Phidias , Lifippus , Prax iteles ,

and Athenodorus , a re oppofe'

d toMich ae l’Angelo, Alga rdo;and Bernini and Vitruvius to Dom enico Fontann. It m uh:

be acknowl edged, tha t could» this point be decided,

the deciiion interefl'ingf Rom e, of all places, is the fittefi forfinch a difcuflion, as it contains the-m atter-pieces of

em inent hands in all eges to that the eyes*

m ay here gu idethe judgm ent .

In the defcription of the churches we havefme'

cified a greatnum ber of adm irable pieces in painting, ard sitea ure , and

fcu lpture ; yet are fush pieces no lefs frequentl y to be m et

w ith in the palaces of the prince s a nd nobil ity a t Rom er whoare generally a s lavifix in thefe ornam ents as = thofe of other

coun tries are in equipages , liveries , w ines, drefs, enterta ina

m eri ts, dogs, horfes , are . An Italian prince m akes litt'eaccount of foch th ings , and places his grandedr in

: adorn inghis palaces w ith curiou s decorat ions , tha t: foreigners m ay beinduced to vil it them , anda talk'

of their m agnifioenee whereverthey go. This hum our is c arried: to fuch a

’

pitch , that Lhaveoften feen tw enty or thirty room s on the firit and few -flooror on

‘

e uof thefe aces m agnificently furniihed for m ent

ofi entat-ion, whil the owner and his family]

, confined them t

felves , all together to the upper fie ry .~Asv

°

s = is the m anner

of livimgfiobiervedr am ong the s law -m a nofia;noble—facing

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R O M E .

’

339lies blue, on the fecond ye llow , and red on th e th ird a m ixture of the ic colou rs form ing a ll the reli . Mr. Blon is a na

tive of Francfort on the Mayne , a nd ;a nea r rela tion ofMadem oifelle Merian , (o fam ou s for h e r col lection and pa intings of curiou s infects . Th is tafte w as {0 preva len t in her,th a t {h e m ade a voya

oe toAnterica on pu rpofe to gra tify it,w ithou t any other bu li nefs . He is ce rta in ly a perfon ofgreat

gen iu s , a nd, if he w a s . a l ittle lefs w avering in h is pu rlu its ,capable of m aking ve great im provem ents . Even th is newinvention of taking 0 th e im prefii on of piétu res com es fbortof th a t perfe

'

él ion , to w hich , w ith a clofer appl ica tion he

m igh t h ave brought it bu t h is m ind took a difi'

eren t tu rn

for he applied h im felf to a new m anu factu re of tapeftry .

Th is indeed is an additional proof of th e happinefs of h is

inven tion ; bu t by reafon of h is age , be ing now in h is fix tyfou rth year, he w ill probably leave it in the fam e im perfe€tRate a s the form er.

A connoili'

eu r in pa inting w il l m eet w ith an agreeable Rofi‘

x’s col

ente rtainm ent a t Sign ior Rofii’s houfe , nea r the chu rch of S .

h a “ °f

G iov ann i Battifi a de’Fiorentin i a Strada G iul ia , w here a re

pm gs'

to be {een three capita l pié’tu res , v iz. Diana ba thing w ith

her nym phs, Ma rs at the thet ofVenu s , and Apollo wi th thenine m ufe s . Though there m ay be little tru th in

‘

the report

th a t the king ofFrance offered a n h undred thoufandfi udz’

, or

crow ns , for each of thefe pia u res , they a re u niverfa ll ad

m ired a s pieces of e x traordina ry beau ty . T he cheva l ier {u tti Lam s col

has a collection of near three thou fand defigns b the grea tefil efi ion

m a ile rs . The Ital ians m u ll:how ever acknowfidge , tha t a t Of theprefent the h ave bu t ° few em inent pa inte rs . Clem entinafl ergt l m h an

a t T u rin , IS the be ll portra it-pa inter, and lbe is not a l ittle la

m e”

;obl iged to Me idens , th e Sw edilh Virtuofo, w ho, for painting

m en ma.

in m in iatu re and enam el ha s few equ a ls . Rofa lba , w ho for Roan“.

m erly l ived a tVen ice, and is now a t Vienna , dr a w s portrai ts

in crayons for fou r or five gu inea s a p iece . Sol im ene a t scum “ ,

N aples , and Ricci a t Ven ice , a re of an advanced age . Tre

vifan i at Rom e cannot l ive long ; and nex t to h im , Conch a Concha .is the only pa inter of any confiderable n ote in th a t city . The

I ta lians have now very few tolerable portra it-

pa in te rs , and a refa r fu rpafl

'

ed by Cooper, Dobfon , and Riley , w ho w ere na .

tir es ofEngl and. The grea‘

telt fa u lt found w ith the prefentItalian pa inters is the fa in tnefs ofthe ir colou ring . T h is Tre

vifani acknow ledges , and approves of Meiden’s m ethod of

colou ring, as better ca lcu la ted to w ithftand th e inju ries of

tim e bu t he a lledges, th a t, a

éh is tim e of life, it is too la te2 for

34-0 R 0‘

M E

for h im to think of al tering his ftile, though it»w ere (or a

better.

I have often thought that the pot religion, by affectingfuch pom p and fplendor in churches and convents , efpecia llyin Ita ly , grea tly contribu tes to the im provem en t

'

of pa inting,fculptu re, d a rch iteétu re . In the chu rches of Ita ly only ,there a re a t ca ll fifteen thoufand pieces of the Lord

’s-fuppe r,

and above fifty thou fand of the'Annuncia tion . The pa in te rs

m u ll have contin ua l ly endeavoured after a fuperiority in th a t

a rt, and to recom m en d th eir w orks by new im provem ents in

the colou ring, or Ex preflion , (happy w ere the in w hofe

w orks both w ere united and w ha t a la rge liield for the

fi rength of im a ination , and the del icacy of defign , does the

billory of the gible open to an ingenious a rtifi . Th is op

portunity of im provem ent is not to be m et w ith in Proteil a ntcountries and tem poral princes h ave too m any w ays to

fum e their revenues, (0 tha t they feldom can lay ou t any con

fiderable ex pence in bu ildings , paintings , fiatues , 8tc .

W hereas convents have frequently m ore read m oney th an

they know what to do w ith : bcfides , they are u re tha t w h a t

ever is laid ou t on their ch urches , w ill be re im burfed ten-fold

by the profitable refort of pilgrim s and others . Add to th is

the legacies da ily procu red, by the a rtifices of the priefts , for

bu ilding and orna m enting the ir chu rches . Here a ll are de w

firou s of an ecclefialtic in their lal l m om ents , and h is bu

l inefs is to ex hort the dy ing perfon to the perform ance of

good w o ks and to leave h is fortune to churches and con

ven ts is e grefented by them as the m olt m eritorious w ork,of

a ll for, fay they , ou r Saviou r tells u s , tha t w hatever good

is done to the leafi of h is brethren , be w ill look upon as

done to h im felf and one order of th e Francifcan m onks

have , ou t of their grea t h um ility, {tiled them feIVes m in imi

i . e . The leali w h ich gives them a better title to ch ari

table legacies . Pur tory is a lfo an inex ha uftible fund to the

chu rch ofRom e . Ti is little know n w ha t envy and rancou r

the differen t orders enterta in one aga inll:another, and their

art ifice a nd a llidu ity in draw ing the filly {beep from one fold

to another ; and one of the m olt infa llible ex pedients for this

pu rpofe, is, the gla ring pom p and m agnificence of a ch u rch .

The em u lation in bu ildings , and the fplendor of them , is,how ever, an advantage to the people, as it em ploys a great

num ber ofhands , and con fequ ently prom otes the circu la tion

of m oney w h ich is infini te ly better than to le t it lie dead in

im m enfe treafures , or for the convents to get all the harder!

e ates

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xR C) M, E.

two porphyry pillars , two itatues of Venus , . n¢arly in

the a ttitude of tha t ofMedicis ; a head of Pefce his N iger,fou r alaba lter flow er-pots , fom e table s ofprec ious {tom par

ticularly one of Iapir la zuli. Am ong the pa intings to be feen

h ere, the m oftrem a rkable a re a PietabyVandyke, a headofLn

cretia byG uidoRhen i, w ith the four feafonsby the fam e h and 5twobattles , by Borgognone ; the m allacreofthe innocents , byPoufiin ; a Madonna , by Corregio a Lord

’s-Supper, by

Muziano. The ch apel w a s pa inted infre to by Borgognone ,and the ha l l byCarlo Maratti . In the orm er are two land

fcapes by Salvator Rofa , a n Era borne by Guido St. Igna

tius , a capital piece, by Ca rloMaratti, and the m a rriage of

Cana b Pa ul Veronefe . In the bed-cham ber of the late

rince afper Al tieri is the chariot of the fun in frrfio, byg‘aibricio Chiari ; and the cieling of the room , adjoin ing to it

w as pa inted by Ca rlo Ma ratti. Th e cardina l’s bed of {la te

is va lued a t forty thoufandfiudi, or crowns and a t the bed’s

head is a looking lafs , on w hich three children are in im ica

bly. painted, byC oMaratti . Th is is not theonly pa lace w here

I h ave obferved, th at w hen any looking es are accidental ly cracked, th ey {till reta in the ir place, and a flaw is conoea led by fom e cu rious piece ofpainting . Here is al fo lhew nan oétangu larfi n a le»: of rock cryfltal , ten inches long, and

fix broad, in a fram e of gold fet. w ith am ethyfis,em eralds, fapph ires , topazes , and diam onds ;w eighs tw elve pounds, and is by fom e valued at

fandfcudz'

, or crow ns . Here is l ikeW ife a curiom piece of

m ofa ic-worh'by Cortona , reprefenting the Virgin Mary ,

w ith the ch ild Jefu s . Th e l ibra ry is (and toh ave colt a hundred thoufand fcudi, and is a fine collea ion both of printed

books and m anufcripts ; befide s m eda ls and intqglio’s pro

c u red by cardina l G iovanni Ba ttifta Al tieri, and a Madonn aby Raphael ; j c

In the pa lace ofAltem ps , wh ich w as origin

fam ily , are to be feen in the court, and on

the fi atu es of Flora , and Fanil ina, w ith her m other ; thofe

of Hercu les , Efcu lapius , Mercu ry , Bacchu s, and ,a cele

bra ted gl ad ia tor ; two pil lars of porphyry ,‘

on w hich are the

heads ofDrufu s and Nero ; and a large m arble table, m ade ,with its fram e, dzc . of one block. In the apartm ents w a s

form erly a col leél ion of fine paint ings ; but few of them are

now rem a ii dng. T he other cu riofities to be {een here are, a

large table of oriental grana te , and a nother {till m ore bea u

tifu l , of blah/fro or ientqlefiorito, or oriental flowered alaba f

lZ O M E.

ter, m 1 bull s , andHom er’s head in bqfi -rdz'ew , w ith a

fine piece of -fcu lptu re in m arble fu pported by two fiatues .Under one of the berj

‘

w d iava’r are the follow ingwords :

H“ (w a s Ba rbi £5 Ariadne: Morm m m tum , 2F a lottzNe

m r'

aw'

m der ibws crutam , dam dedit Melcbiori Ca rdina li Frans

ra tnm irg/iaa rabat Petra:

Th is ancien t m onu m ent of Bacchus and Ariadne, dugou t of the ru ins ofNero

’s pa lace, w as prefented to cardi

nal Me lchior, by Francis Fa rnefe, duke of Pa rm a and

Placentia x in the Jubilee yea r 1 72 5 . It w as origina l] the

w ork of a Grecian a ttili bu t repaired at Rom e by eter

Le ltache, a na tive of Paris.’

Over th is piece is\

a fine pa inting, reprefenting Diana‘

c rowning a {leaping End°

ou w ith a garland of flow ers .‘

A nother bqflé-reh’

m on antiqu e m onum ent reprefents th e'

Basebanal ia , but w ithout any infcription .

343

The Barberini palace is e x ceeded only by the Vatican ,'

rour thou :

and contains four thoufand room s or apartm ents . The two fw d room s

m a in fla ir—cafes are ex trem ely grand and on one of them is

a ve large antique l ion , w h ich is m uch adm ired for the

e x ce m ay of the workm anlh ip . It was dug up in the pon

tilica te ofUrban VIII . am on th e ru ins of Pitiliu s Libo’s

m a ufoleum , nea r T ivol i . T e grea t hal l is ve m agnifi

cent, and the cieling pa inted in efio by Pietro dl Cortona ,reprefenting the tran l

'

aétions of rban the e ighth’s pontificate

by a variety of fym bol ica l figu res. In the firltor anti-cha rm

ber {l and the fiatues pf Domitian , Ceres , the em prefs Plo

tina w ife ofTrajan , Venu s , and an Am azon, a ll of m a rble ;to ther w ith a ver r em arkable fia tue of the confu l Bru tu s

holding the head of°

s (on , w hom he had fentenced to die, in

his hand . Here are a lfo fou r pillars of black m arble , and one

of w ra’e a ntico, th e heads of Papirius and Pal las and fevera l

pieces ofpa in ting b Pietro di Cartona , Sacch i, andCam a ll'

ei

da Bevagna . In e fecond cham ber are three of the largeit

pictu res in Rom e ,fuz

'

z. a bacch anal ian feaft, another of the

gods , by Rom anell i, and thebattle betw ix t Confiantine the

Great and Max entiu s , copied by Ca rlo N apol itano from the

ori inal ofG iu lio Rom ano in the Vatican . Here are like

wili two pié’rures by Gu ercino, twobu ll s of'

Marius and Sy lla ,Z 4. a very

in the Bat

berini pa

34-4 R O M E.

a very fine head of Jupiter, and a W e fatyrg,piece, attribu ted by form to B ernini. Tie audieis ornam ented w ith a great num ber ofancient vafes , the bu llsof Antigonu s and Alex ander the Great, the lall:ex ceedinglyadm ired ; the head ofTull ia w ife of Tarquinius Superbu s ,and ofSeptim iu s Severus in bronze r In the apartm ent adjoinfingto th is a re fevera l good piétu res, and the heads ofDeciusand Va lerian . There w ere form erly tobe feen in this pa lacean e x qu ifiteMadonna by T itian, and a very ancient fta tu e ofDiana ofEphefus ; bu t they have been both given aw ay, the

latter to Ph ilip V . of Spa in .

In the fum mer aparttnenes, w hich face the eallg, a re thefollow ing iél ures St

.Sebaltian by Lanfrango, a facrifice by

Pietro 'di ortona, Lot w ith h is two dau hters by AndreaSacch i, and two of the apoltles by Carlo

‘

bga ratti a rtra itin m iniatu re of the heroic John Sobieflt III . king of oland,and his u een , and the m a rble bulls o Dom itian and Mam

m z a . he furn iture of the cardinal’s bed-cham ber is a ll of

Blue dam eik it is a lfo adorned w ith hifiorica l pieces ou t Of.theOld and New Teltam ent, by Giul ioRom ano.

In the nex t apa rtm en t are, a beau tiful piece of pa inting,reprefentingN oah in the vine-yard, by Sacchi, and Herodiasby T itian . Here are al fo two ver ra re pieces , v iz. a headof Ju lius Caefar in brown Egyptian m a rble, and of ScipioAfricanu s in gin/lo a ntira, a porph ry bulb ofUrban VIII .defigned by Bernin i, and thofe of a rcus Aurelius and Li l -4

ciu s Verus . Here is_

a lfo a cu rious clock fix ed on a crucifixand enriched w ith jew els and enam el 5 and a fountain, w itha bafou of bronze, reprefenting Venus draw n by four del

phins , w h ich are of the fam e m etal . Aga inlt the w al l (l and,

the bulls of Scipio Africanus , Nero, Max im in, Cali ul a ,Alex ander Severu s , &c . the Itatue of a huntrefs, the

piétu ro of cardina l Anton io by Carlo Mara tti . Severa l curioli tics in aga te, a m ber, bezoar, w ith m m eo

’r and intaglio

’s

are alfo kept here in tw o clofets w ith glafs doors . In theanti-cham ber ofthe prince of Pa leftrina, brother tod inal , a re feveral

'fine pieces of pa inting by Sacch i,n el li, Ca labrefe ,

‘ Pietro di Cartona , and other celebra tedm ai lers

,The audience-cham ber is hung w ith fine ta

gel

’

try,and adorned w ith a bronze u ell rian fl am e ofCarlo a rberin i, done from a m odel by ernin -1 n the ' late princefs

’s

apartm ent are , Jofeph fly ing from the feducem ents of Poti

pha r’s w ife, by a dilc ip le of

"

I"

itian, St. Jerom ’by G iordano,the rape of the Sabrnes by Ba llim o, Urban VIII . by Sacchi,a Jam es

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Tida'

n ha s here pa intd h im felf and his W ife, and likew ifeth e head ofhis m ifirefs . Here is al fo a very lar e pifi u re byT em péfi

'a, of the m afquerade w ith w hich th e berini fam ily entertainedqueen Chrifiina , u i t her a rrival atRom e ;w h ich , w ith the com edy, tee . is

'

d to ha ve coil eightythoufand fw di, or crowns. Another capital piece been re

prefenting Urban VIII . appointing his nephew TaddeoBa r-t

berin i governor ofRom e . . The fubjefit of a third is the jubilce by the Jelu its in 1 638, b the hundredth anniver

‘

tires the infiitution of their orIn the other w ing of the gm und floor aro sen room s, ful l

of rare and enrious pieces . In the fid i u e , a fm al l antiqu e

pe ot'

the three Graces in m arble , the heads of kingtolem y, Scipio Africam rs , and Cicero ; the m odel of theCafi rum Doloris ereéted by the ily in honourof J am es II . king of England 5 St. Veronica by Ca labrefefevera l landfcapcs by Bm ghel , a Flcm ing ; the Virgin Ma r

w ith the infant Jefa s and j ohn the Baptifi by Raph ael . n

th e liza rd apartm ent are, a ch ild ak ep by Gu ido, done 13bafi nlloy fi in crayons ; a Cyclops in fi t to by Annibal Cara cci Sta Luke by Vouet St. Martina y Pietro di Carton a ; the rape ofEuropa , gin m ofa ic, Sound in an a ncient tem

p le of Fortune a t Prenefi e, now ca lled Pa lefirina two m ar

ble M o’s of cardinal Antonio and D . T addeo, both

‘

542

Bern in i . Here is fhewn a pla ifier bttfio of Urban VII Bfifio w ade

w h ich ex hibits a good l ikenefs of him , though m ade b amum

bl ind m an. The nam e of th is artifi w as Giovann i Gam b 0,

h e w as a m rir t of Volterra, and loft h is fight in the twen

rieth yea r of h is age .

In th e th ird apartm ent is the fl am e ofSeveru s Septim u s, in

bronze, a piece h igh ly efteem ed, and bigger

Near it is tha t ofNa rcifiirs in m arble , wh ich is a lfo ex ceed

ingly adm ired and fa rther on is a glad iator, w ith the bul l s

of the countefs Ma tilda , and of Cola or N icola s Gabrin i di

Ris i rm , w ho, in the yea r 1 344, in the tim e of Clem ent VI .

w as tribune of the Rom an people, and after a l ife of difl i

m a intie n and am bition , cam e a t lafi to an ingloriou s end ,both of m arble Here are alfo th e m arble fia tues of Atlas ,Ph ilom ena , and Lu cre tia ; leveral dz

'

i term ini, Nero’s h ead

in bronze, di e . The pifi ures in th is apartm ent are St . Sil

The Life of this petty tyrant by fa ther do Cerceau w as publ ilhed in

the year 1 734, and was late ly traa ilated into Englifh, ahd publilhed in

m on

343 R f0 M E .

Jude by Ciatnpel i, ‘

a dead Chrift by Fred. Bar

rozzi , and a cru cifix ion by Lanfranco.

In the fou rth apartm ent are to be feen a large cryftal look

ing-glafs , and a very ingeniou s piece of clock-work ; fine

m arble fiatu es of Venus , Diana , Bacchus; and of Poppza

Sabina‘

; St. Francis a inted by Sacchi, St . Stephen by Ca

t acci, St, Jerom by guercino, and (om e fine earthen vell'

els

have been pa inted by Raphael .In the nex t apa rtm ent are. the {l atte s bf T iberius and

Marcu s Aurelius ; thofe of the goddefls Panthea , w ith a

filtrum in her hand ; and Harpoeratcs or'the god of Silence .

Am ong other pictures here are Jacobw reftling w ith the an »

gel by Vou et, St. Sebafi ian by Albani, Chrill‘

am ong'

the

doctors in the tem ple by Albert Da re}, the Virgin Maryw ith the infant Jefus ,by Pannigianino.

In the forth a partm ent {l and the ll athes ofAgrippina , j g .

l ia Augultus’s dau hter, and Mefi

'

a lina'

pne pf the Mufes ,

Apollo, Diana of phefits , the ga me? of Health ,Si c. Here a re

’alfo ibew a a yery large h ead, [a id _

to be an

oracle, w h ich _in rea lity is only a per/ba a or n a iqu e, u fed an d

ciently on the Rage, a bu fio ofHercu les , h Tau robolium , a

head ofCaracalla , Ste . a lfo feveral p ictu res , as a facritice toD iana by Pietro di Cortona , (om e of the apoll les by

'

Ca rloMara tti, a dead Chri

'

l’t by Brandi, the , portrait ofRaphael ,the Fa rnefian Cl e lia by Gaetano, &c .

The feventh apartm ent ex h ibits a {m all fiatue of Seneca ,three E ptian idols of dark brow n granate and touch

-hone;the godfl fs of Plen ty in bronze, four Bacchanal ians paintedby T itian , a very celebrated piétu re of Judith b Leona rdoda V inci, and fevera l portra its of lea rned m en cund in th e

ga ller of the duke of Urbino a t the incorpora tion of th isdukecihm w ith the ecclefiafl ical fia te by popeUrbanVIII .In the nex t apa rtm en t are, the portra i t of Andrea Sacch i,

a cu riou s m a rble fia tu e of Seneca , and a fleeping Fa unu s, anantiqu e found am ong the ancient fepu lchres a t St. An, lo,and efieem ed one of the greatel

’t curiofities in Rom e . ere

is al fo an adm irable Adonis w ounded by the w ildboar, of ala-E

bafier, x

by Ma zzoli , a S ienefe, w ho fpent a lm ott one and th irtyy ears abou t th is piece , w h ich is va lued a t five or fix thoufand

fi udi . It w a s intended a s a prefent to the king ofDenmark ,w hen he w as eXpeé

’ted at Rom e . However, cardina l

“

Ba rbe ;

rini agreed, for th is ex cellent piece, to a l low the artifi a perifion offive and tw enty fcudi per m onth , w ith a certain quan

-g

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’

or, according to others, in tha t of Caraea lla i W hen the

m ean henies now {l anding about this fuperbpalace, are pu lleddow n , this obel il lt is to be fet up in the great

In the pa lm ofBorghefe are feventeen hundred ori gina l

piam res, w hich are reckoned worth feveral m illion s of m o

ney . This edifice w as bu ilt in the tim e ofPaul V . byMar

tine Longi and Fl am inio Bonzio, two very em inent archi

tea s ; bu t from the na ture of its li tuation , it m ay properlybe faid to confiil of three divifson s .

The pillars at the doors and in the colonade w ith in the

court, are no let‘

s than a hundred in num ber, and a l l of

oriental granate. Here a re al fo the fl am es of Ju les Pia ,Pau ll ina, Sabina , an Am azon, w ith fom e curiou s w a ter

works . On the ground floor, w here the Fa m ily refide a in the

finm m er , are tw elve room s full of the m olt valu able pa intings,and other citriofitie s ; but I (h al l only m ention the m olt re

m a rkable . In the firlt cham ber are feen two oval piéi ures of

ou r Saviour and the Virgin Ma ry by Raphael ; the Vir°

n

Mary , w ith the ch ild Jefu s treadgi

lgupon a ferpent, by 8 1 .

ravaggio ; E neas carryin h is er Anchilei by Haracc i,and a landfcape by Bt ughe

In th e fecond apartm ent a re. a capital hunt ing-piece and

Diana’s bath by Dom en ich ino, a beau tifu l piece reprefentin

St. Cecil lia , w ith the angel hovering over her head , and diffufing through the w hole piece that leading light in w hich

Corregio ex ceeds a ll other'

nters . ere is alfo a beaut ifu l

porphyry table, w ith 3 Ci cm of the fam e (tone, va lued a t

thirty thoufand fcua'

i or crow ns .

ah the third apartm ent are the fiory ofU! s and Pole

phem u s b Lanfranch i , St . Catherine by l , GefarBorgia an Mach iavel by the fam e m a il er, though (om e a re

incl ined ra ther to think them T itian’s, w ho has pa inted here

the {bury of the adu ltre ls in the gofpel . The Lord’s Supper,

and David overcom ing Gol iah are by Ca ravaggio, and ou r

Saviou r fa inting and two angels w ith lighted fiam beaus bT addeo Zuccaro. Here is alfo a table oforienta l jafper w orttwd ve thou fand fw di .The fou rth apartm ent is adorned w ith th e portra its of

Bram a nta Lazari by Titian, ofMich ael Angelo by h im felf,tl ie em peror Cha rles V . by T itian , and his own pietu re byh im fe lf. Here is a lfo the (cow ing ofCh rift, and the fourfeafons by Albani , t he portrait a?Raphael by Giu l io Rom a

in , a nd a cruc ifix ion copied from a m an w hom.

MichaelAnge lo is fa id tohave fafiened to a crofs, anda ftuw ards to

have

K 0 M E'

.

have beaten on the head til l he died . This is pretended tobe the original piece , d rough the C arthui ians a t Naplesa ffi rm th is to be on ly a copy of theirs ; bu t fine one m ay bea s good an origina l as the othen Th is is fom ething fm a llerth a n that ofSt. John de Lateran and after al l it has nothingin it very ex traordina l

zthe countenance of the V irgin

Ma ry and St. John, an even of our Sav iou r on the crofs ,h a ve little ex preflion in them ; and Chrifi

’s head, contrary to

a ll probabil ity , is qu ite ereét as he ex pires .

T he fifth apartm ent, w h ich is the a udience-room , is ex

ceeding m agnificent, being adorned w ith a filver foun tainfive pabm

'

h igh two tables of orienta l a labaflter ; the portra itof Martin Luther by T itian, w ith the three graces and a

fc hool-m afler, reckoned two of the belt pieces wh ich that cclebrated m atter ever pa inted ; Mary Magdalen by Anniba l

C a racc i, a cap ita l piece of his whole fam ily by Pordenone,the V i

ggin Mary by Raph ael , divine and carnal love by T i

m m , C.

The fix th room , wh ich is the prince'

s bed-cham ber, isorn am ented w ith fevera l naked Venus

’s and other nudities .

Am ong thefe , Leda by Leonardo da Vinci, Pfyche and two

V enus’s b

'

y T itian , Adam and Eve by Bel ino, and a groupeof bea utifu l w om en by Lavinia Fontana , a re the m e lt va lu a .

ble . T h is‘

room opens into a'

fine ery , on e ach fide of

w h ich are tw o al abafter foun ta ins . he frifes and fe lloons

on the w a ll a re by Cyro Ferri, and the flow ers and foliages ,w ith the children playing am ong

-th em on the e ight large pier

gla ll'

es are byG iovanni Stanch i ; here a re a lfo fix teen .

porphyry heads , reprefen ting the twelve Cefars, and the con

fu ls Marcellus , ‘Flam ius , Scipio Africanu s , and Ca ius Ma

n u s .

In the nex t apartm ent are to be feen eight deli a s by Ra .

ph a s l and G iu lio Rom ano, val ued a t tw d ve thou and fm di ;a view of the Villa Borghefe by the chevalier Francefe , or,

a ccording to others, by Tem pefta ; the ba tt le aga infl the

Veii a nd the Fidenates byG iofeppe d’Arpino St . Peter by

Ca ra cci fom e (m al l pieces by A leil'

andro Veronefe ; the

adora tion of the w ife m en from the ca ll: in m orale ; a nd in

the fam e kind of w ork the intended facrifice of l faac, and

O rpheu s w ith the beafi s a ttentive to the harm ony of h is lyre .

Th is piece is by Provenzale , and is three fpans broa d, and

fom eth ing above tw o in he ight. Som e of th e gem s are not

th icker th an a fi cond a fize n eedle, and the colou rs a re ve ryl ively . Here is a lfo the Virgin Ma ry done in the fam e del i

R 0‘

M E.

cate manner ; but can both thefe a re furpalfed by a m efaié

bufio ofPau l V. w h ich is abou t three [pans hi h , in w h ich

are fa id to be a million and fi x hundred thougnd fi nds , or

pieces of preciou s fiones .’

Th is m ay poflibly be true ; bu tbe it as itw ill , it is an exqu ifite piece,

“

and I quefi ion w h e ther

it can . be ex ceeded; In this room are alfo fom e pictu res in

Florentine w ork ; Adam and Eve paintedon orienta l ja fper ;and a very old bu t indifferent portra it of the Virgin Ma ry ,brought ou t of Greece . This cham ber is reckoned one of

the finefi in the w hole pala ce.Nex t to this is an oél angu lar fa lcon , w ith a table ofqu ince

coloured m arble in the center, round w h ich fifteen pe rfons

m ay fit. The la ndfcapes on the cieling are by Giov ;cefco Bolognefe . The ba lcony affords a fine profpeét of the

T iber and the Strada di Ripetta .

The tenth room is the princefs’s fum m er apartm ent, and

'

is ornam ented w ith fom e landfcapes by Pau l Bruh l , a c ruc i

fix ion by Giu lio Rom ano, a Bacchana l ian by G u ido Rhen i,va lued at five thoufandfi udi, the VirginMary by del Sarto,St. Seba ll ian by Kufi ich ino, &C.

In the eleventh , w hich is the princefs’s audience-room , are

two a labaii er founta ins and tw o vafes the Prodiga l Son

pa inted by Tit ian ; St. Anthonio di Padu a by Paolo Ve ro

nafe ; two portra its by Albert Durer T itian , w ith h is fer~

vant, w hom he w as very fond of, and a dea th’s head by th at

a rtifi . This apartm ent looks into a (hu ll garden , b u t m olt

e legantl la id ou t. In the tw elfth room are to be feen the

V irginM w ith the infant Jefus and John the 3:1d byRaphael ,

2

ivr

liich is reckoned one ofh is bell pieces anotherex cellen t piéture of John the Baptifl by Bronzino, the fioryof Sam pfon bringin honey to h is m iftrefs by Guercino,Judith by Lavinia Pontana , and a very va luable table of

oriental jafper.The fecond ftory , or the m ezzanine, is the w inter apart

m ent, and is.

adorned w ith (om e good piétures by Tem pelta

Pietro di Cortona , Ph il ippa Lauri, Manciola Fiam ingo,Gafpa r Pouflin , &c .

In the apartm ents of the third fiery are the h ifiory of Solom on and the queen of Sheba , the rape of the Sabines , and

other pieces , a ll pa in ted by Piazzo, a Capuch in m onk a

cabinet of ebon fet w ith precious fiones, and fevera l piecesof fcriptural h i cry on gold plates , va lued a t futty thoufand

j i udi . One of the fets ofhangings in th is place was done

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R o M E .,

m ale fa int, w ith whom he form er] l ived in a very fu fpiciou sm anner ; and th e m o lt beau tifu l aces in feveral other re l i

gions pieces in th is pa lace a re fa id to be the portra its of h is

m iflreifes . Even the ca rdinal’s fervants cannot forbea r la ugh

ing a t nam ing th is fa int »; and, fom etim es, they jocu la rltell foreigners in w h at fi reet th is or tha t beam , or fain t, is fi i l

to be feen a live . Bu t th is is not pecu l ia r to th e O ttobon i

pal ace ; m any pictu res of the Virgin Ma ry , or of (om e fe

m a le fa int, w h ich , as a ltar-pieces , a re w orlh ipped w ith the

m oi’c devout Venera tion , a re no other than the reprefenta tions

of the m iftreffes e ither ofth e pa in ter, or of the donor, w ho

l ittle qu efi ions h is having pu rch afed a lace in heaven by fu ch

a cofi ly offering to the chu rch . Sim ilar in itances a lfo a re to

be m et w ith am ong the hea thens , as m ay be feen in Cice ro

proDom . c . O ttobon i be ing bu t young w hen prom otedto the pu rple, and, w ith his grea t w ea lth , of a very l ibe ra l

difpofition and a il tong propenii ty to pleafu re , his l ife h as

been fuch , as the heretics cou ld not have fa iled to h ave m ade

a handle of, ifhe had been ex a lted to the papa l dign ity . Few

days finceMa rforio afked Pafqu in who w ou ldbe pope P a f

qu in’s anfw er w as , He th a t ha s the m e lt crea tu res .

’ Mar

forio then replied : O ttobon i is the m an a l luding to the

m anyn atura l children im pu ted to h im . In one of the u pper

apartm ents of th is palace I faw a fine table of rey m arble ,w h ich , u pon being firu ck, rung l ike brafs . an the al tar

of the priva te chape l is a m arble fi a tu e of the Virgi n Ma ryby Mich ael Angelo . He re is a lfo a chair covered w ith v el

v et, and laced w ith gold, fa id to h ave ferved n ine popes . Ith ad been a fix ed piece of furn itu re in the Va tican , till , in thelafi pope

’s tim e , the Beneventines , w ho w ere for m ak ing

m oney of every th ing, fold it for a trifle and pafii ng throughfevera l hands , at laft th e Jew s got it into their pofi

'

efiion,from w hom O ttobon i redeem ed It. In th is chape l a lfo is afiatne ofA lex ander VIII . w ith thefe w ords under it,

Vera Alex andri VI I] : P . M fi g ies, cum (J a m'

s pq/x’fj us obi

rum XV. corpu s m zm bilzter incarruptam in not/um

tramfl rrztur .

c A true efi gy of pope Alex ander the eighth’s body, as

found uncorrupted, fifteen years after h is dea th .

’

He re is a v a lu able l ibra ry, confifi ing not only of tha tpope’s

collection, but likew ife offeven thoufand volum es , purchafedof

356 R O M E.

indicates a happy a ltera tion of the tim es . In a m eda l of Ca

fi rm s in Angelon i, and on fom e other a nt iqu es , and gen e

ral ly in m odern pieces , it is the em blem of e tern ity . O n th e

fu nera l m eda l of Ch a rles duke ofLorra in , both the Ph a en ixa nd the legend, Surgermfl r is ex aj iba r u ltor . From o u r

rem a ins fhal l a rife ‘

an a venger,’a ll ude to the grea t hopes con

ceived from the v ivacity and gen iu s of the young prince . It

feem s unqu eitionable , th a t qu een Chrifi ina h ad in he r eye

the poetica l hél ion , that there i s never m ore than one Pha e

n ix ex iiting a t the fam e tim e . And though her abdica tion of

the throne w a s ra ther forced than volunta ry , a s {he m igh t w e l l

forefee , that her conduct and w ay of l iving w ou ld foon de

prive her of it ; yet (he w ou ld h ave the w orld adm ire it a s a

fi ep to w h ich {h e w a s prom pted on ly by her m agnan im i ty ,Tw o m eda ls , w h ich I h ad from Ham e rano, a re a pla in proof

ofw ha t I advance on one of them is the qu een’s he a nd

title)

a nd on the reverfe , the globe ,‘

w ith this m otto :

N E . M I . B I S O GN / l . N E . M I B A STA .

1 680.

I w ant it not, nor wou ld it fatisfy m e

On the other is the head of th is princefs ; and on th e re

Verfe, a radian t fun , w ith thefe w ords

N E G. FAL S O. N E G. AL I E N O.

1 675 .

It {hin es neither w ith fa lfe, nor borrow’d lu il re .

’

W hen qu een Chrifiina pa lTed through Ham burg, {be prefented Mr . Luder w ith a m eda l {tru ck by herfelf, on w h ich

was the crow n of Sw eden, w ith th is infcription

E T. d”

I N E . T E .

A queen even w ithou t thee .

’

Bu t fom e years after, retu rning tha t w ay , and fee ing th is

p iece aga in , {he threw it upon the table, not w ithou t fom e

pafliona te em otions .

The a fcen t to the Capitol is on the w ell fide . The {tepsa re low , bu t of a very ex traordinary breadth ; and, a t the

bottom

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R O M E. 359

Hot in orbim lo 05m

Traja m'

rim e:j a robau tN un: non cineror,Sed m ar ia j a cot.9? a runs ris er:

Mom or iam [opelic itArr cum rampart non a nerem ,

Sed m m iam iayfa ura rMagnitudinir om

'

m non ” liqu id ,‘

ed tundra nix m a nor.

Cim’

: riner i in Um oi

E ra tom or itur

W ith in th is l ittl e globe form erly lay Trajan’s afhes ;

now not h is a ibes , bu t h is m em ory is depofited there .

T irne bu ried h is m em ory w ith his alli es . Art w ith tim e

refiores , not his alhes , but h is m em ory ; for no reliques of

his reatnefs a re to be feen, fca rce the ihadow.. of it now

e°

ng. His rem ains in th is u rn a re reduced to du ll bytim e ; the m em ory of his athes {l ill lives in the a ir by th ehelp of art.

’

In the m iddle of this fiuare Pa u l III . ereéted an eque ll rian Sta tue of

fl atue of the Rom an em peror Ma rcu s Aureliu s Anton inu s ,M? “ A‘“

w h ich form erly fl ood in S t. John La teran . The pedefta l isu"

very grand, being the w ork'

ofMichael Angelo. The ow l

on the horfe’s head is an em blem of the em peror

’s v igilance,

w ifdom , and fugacity ; that bird be in the fym bol ofMinerVa . This fta tue 1 8 above the na tu ra ftze , and appears to

have been anciently gilt, forne of the gold il ill rem aining.

On one fide of the pedefi al is the fol low ing infcription

m ini F .

D ir/ i

D im.

Nerve AbnepotiM Aurelio Antom no P io l ug .

Germ . Pom s. Pom . Ma x . Tr io. Pot. XXVI].Imp. If] . Co]:H] . P . P . 8 . P . Q; R.

The au thor is certain] m iltaken, if he fuppofes this tobe an ancientiption ; for it is full 0 111011

l: pu nning m t, Soc.

a 4

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,R O M

'

E .

the m a ul? Rw afl'

haste,and reigned over fertile Sicily , long la in obfcurity , co

vered w ith du ll and m bbilh. even unt'

the gloriou s pon tifim te ofSix t u s , w hen Matthew ofT ufcany , the ornam ent

of h is fam m e in th is honou rable

for w hich h is vim !“ and abil ities, befides his illufirious ,

defcent em inently qu al ified him . This fi a tue w as fet

u p in and the eighteenth m a th of his adm inill ra

tion .

’

T he fol low ing infcription Was erected in honour of popeG regory XIII .

fi

fl

fi

fl

fi

fl

fi

fi

fi

fl

fl

Ma x .

vefl iga l fubla tum , Urbem remplir (9 01m m m ag

To pope Gregory XIIIFor h is abolilhing ofthe ta x on flour ; the m any fplendid

churches and m agnificent publ ic works w ith w h ich he

em belliihed the Ci ty ; the learned fem inaries of forei nn a tions he ere6ted at Rom e, and in m ofi

'

arts of e

w orld, for the propaga tion of religion ; forlhis paternal

concern and tendernefs for all nations , which appeared inh is affeétion and digni w ith which he received am ball

'

ae

dors from the king ofyapan, an lil and fitu ated in the ex .

trem e parts of the new world) on their arriva l a t Rom e,

after a three years voyage, to do hom age to the apoftolicfee, the fenate and people of Rom e craéted this m onum ent

of their gratitude.’

R O M E .

onthe pedeftal of th is {lam e are thefe words

Gregorio

Optim a P r incipi

i a £9’eba r ita te m odera tur .

s. P .

0

To the m oft ex cellent prince Hogo Boncam pagno, a

native of Bologna , w ho h av ing pa ired through th e fevera l

orders of the church and great offices of the city ofRom e

w ith ex em pla ry m odera tion , jufiice, a nd devotion , w as at

length ex a lted to the papa l dign ity by the n am e of G regoryXIII . and now dilfu fes the good effects of h is confum

m a te pru dence, and ex tenfive cha rity , through the Chri

{lian w orld, the fena te and people of Rom e erected thisfl a tue.

’

Under thei

ll attie ofPau l III . a re thefe w ords

u 2q efa r j zeflie, iem ‘

a tque eere colla te, a rl/em j itu ts’iii

t 'er ti cu lis wia r um ES’imperv iam disj efi

'i: m a ]? paj iti:krdificm , in m eliorem arm a m redeger it, v ii: a reifque tum v ete

ribu: direo‘i‘is {9’a mp za tir, tum nev i: eoryi ituti: a u x erit orna m

r itgue a r moDom ini M DXLII] .

By th e com m and and direé’tion of th is pope, and m oll lya t h is ex pence, the city of Rom e , w hich w a s hardly palla

ble, on accou nt of the irregu larity of its bu ildings , a ndfn arrow nefs of

,

the fi reets , w a s redu ced into a better formf the old {treets and a reas being la id out in direct lines andenlarged, or new ones planned, as an ornam ent to the

6city , in the year

Under the Corps de Logis is the capital prifon . In the

conferva tor’s apartm ents, m entioned above, in the left w ing,

a re tw o celebra ted fi a tu es of Ju liu s Cm fa r and Augu l'

tu s,both antiqu es and of w h ite m arble . T he form er, a s (w e

re i n of the w orld, holds a globe in h is h and, the latter a

rolgrum or beak of a (hip, a lluding to his victory over Ma rk

Anthony

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368‘

R O M E .

additional ornam ent to it, he bu ilt a portico for the te

ception of thefe rem a ins of an tiqu ity , in the year

Coflin ofA Fa rther on are fevera l Rom an m ea fu res of longitude cut

k m ’ in m a rble , and fix ed a v a inft the w a ll . Here is al fo the

m arble fa rcophagu s of the em peror A lex ander Severu s and

h is m other Ju lia Mam m e a , found on Monte de l G rano

neat Frefca ti, and brough t hither : It is fix feet long, and

fix broad, w ith th is m odern infcription

8 . P . R .

M num enta fepulcbra l ia Alexgdr i Sevar i Impera tor ir ES

’

1714Iim Mam m azce Ma tr is , Sabina rum etiam raptam ob pa cem de

novo initam , m a rm ora in cu lpta orna ta gue, in agro Fa br itii

Laza r i ex tra Portam Labzanam repor ta , in Capitolioponi j nfl it.

The fepu lchra l m onum ent of the em peror Alex a nder

Severu s and Ju lia Mam m z a h is m other, w ith a fine p iece

of fculptu re, reprefenting the rape of the Sabine w om en

a t the public rejoicing on accoun t of a pea ce juft con

cluded, fou nd in the grou nds ofFabricio Lazari, w ithou t

the Porta Labien a , w ere , by order of the fcna te and

people of Rom e, placed in the capitol, in the year

1 59 1 3

T he 6afl5-relievo, w h ich , bel ides what it has q ered bythe inju ries of tim e, is none of the belt, Flam inio Va cca

has fira ngely m iitaken for the rape of the Sabines in w h ich

e rror he h as been bl indly follow ed by the eneral ity of a h

tiqu a rians : bu t a n a tten tive v iew w ou ld (flew it to be no

other than a reprefenta tion of the ludi funerei, or funera l

gam es of the ancients , as the copper-

pla te in Mon tfa ucon’s

antiqu ities pla inly ihew s . Not far from this is a m a rble co

loll'

a l fia tne o Confl an tine the Grea t, by w h ich one m ayoblerve, tha t t e art of fcu lptu re w as then upon the decline ,bu t the tw o m u fes , under one of w h ich is the w ord

VRANIA , are good pieces a s is a lfo a priefiefs of Bacch u s to be feen here . N ea r the fl a irs is a very rem arkable

an tiqu e , v iz . the colum na ro/tra ta , w h ich is of Parian m a r

ble, and h as a long m odern infcription . It w as ereéted in

the yea r of Rom e 494, in honour of the confu l Caju s Du i

l ius, on account of a naval victory he obta ined over the

1 Cartha

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37° R O M E .

facing which is the bufto ofqueen Chrifl ina , ,w ith th e fol

lowm g i nfcription

Cbri/IineGotborum , Su acorum C

‘J’Va nda lorum

Regim e,

Quad iiyiint'

z‘u D iv inita ti:

Ca tbolica m fidem regno a v itopm erent ,

Pofl adora ta SS . Apo/iolorum im ina

Etfitbm ifl'

am venera tionem

Alex andra VII .

The fenate and people of Rom e erected th is buflo inhonour of Chriftina , qu een of th e Goths, Sw edes , and

Vandals , who, by divine i nfpxration , preferredx he ca tho

l ic fa ith to the kingdom of her anceftocs ; a nd, after w or

fh ippin a t the m ofi facred Lim ina apo/iolorum , and pa y ingherm olt fubm ifiive reverence to pope Alex ander VII . as

head of the ch urch , having trium phed over her

felf, {he rode up to the capitol to adm ire the ancien t te

m a ins ofRom an grandeu r, w here (be perm itted the threeconful s and the fena te’to {i t covered in her prefence, and

tr

6

ea t

6

ed th em as fovereigns, on the 8 th day of Ju ly,I 5

The m arble fiatu e ofLeo X. is the w ork of LorenzettoF iorentino ; tha t ofUrban VIII . is by Bernin i, and tha t of

S ix tu s V . in bronze , w as dcfigned by Fontana.

In the adjoining apa rtm ent are the follow ing pieces a

p iéture ofMu tius Scaevola holding h is h and in th e fire be

fore king Porfenn a Ju niu s Brutu s fentencing h is perfidiousfon to lofe h is head ; and Horatiu s Cod es alone , m a intain

ing h is poll on a w ooden bridge, aga init the w hole a rm of

the enem y , till it w as broken dow n on th e other ide.

.Thefe pieces infro/co are the°

oint w ork ofLa u reti a Sici‘l ian , a nd Perino del Vaga . ere are a lfo feveral pieces of

ancient

R 0 M E .

a nc ient fcu lpture, v iz. the bu lls ofCla udius , Caligula , Aton in a s Piu s , and Lu cius Val erius Corv inu s ; the heads of

Ju l iu s Caefa r and Adrian , of fi ngu la r bea uty ; thofe of

T r aj a n and S eptim iu s , fi anding on p illars of v erde entice

a nd the {h e-w olf fu ckling Rom u lu s and Rem us , in m a rble .

A m ong m pdern pieces to be feen h ere , a re the fiatues ofAlefiandro Farnefe duke of Pa rm a ; Ma rco Antonio Coh

lon n a, w ho com m anded the pope’s fqu adron in the nava l

eng agem ent ofLepanto, a nd w ho, on accou nt of h is ga l lan tbeh a v iour, w as honou red w ith a trium ph a fter the ancient

m a nner ; the fia tues of Francefco A ldobrandin i, Tom a ll'

o

Rofp igliofi, Carlo Ba rberin i, and the bufio ofVirginioCcfa rin i, a n ex cellent Poet .

T he nex t apa rtm ent, on the frizes of w h ich the trium h

of Ma riu s over the Cim bri and T eu tones are pa inted yD a n iel da Volterra , ex h ibits a bra fs {h e-w olf w ith Rom u lu s

and Rem us ; and on the left foor of the w olf is fi ill to be

feen a n im prefi on m ade by a flafh of l ightning)“ T he

A nother fiatue is a lfo m entioned by Cicero, in his th irdaga infi Ca tiline, w hen he enum erates the rife and progrefs of theCatilinecon fpira cy , and adds, Tafiw all etia m i116, gu i ba ne a rbam condidit, Ro

m u lus , em ina ura tum in Capitoliopa rv um a tque Ia éta ntem uber ibza lu

pin ir in ia ntem fu i e m eeting/lit . He did not (pare even the founder of

ou r city , Rom u lu s him fe f, of whom ou cannot bu t rem em ber a little

gilt reprefentation in the capitol eager y fu cking th e {he-wolf.

’From

th is account it is probable, that nothi ng of th a t the-w olf w as then te

m a in ing ; and tha t only the feet of it and the pedeltal w ere ex tant w hen

Tu lly w rote hi s book doDiv ina tiene, as is evident from the follow ingpaifage,

qua pa r-w :Ma v or tirfi m ina na tar

gra v idir v ita li rare r igaba t

n tum cu m puer irfl a m m a tofu lm inir ifl uConcidit, a rguea

cti ng/2:pedum v e/iig ia Equ it.

No fuch m utila tions are obfervable in this . Som e pretm d that this w olfw a s dam a d by the l ightnin w hich h appened a little before the dea th of

Ju l iu s C a t ; bu t Dion C 1 08 m entions noth ing of it : and w hen he

f of that w hich preceded the confpira cy of Catiline, al l he fay s is ,n Capitofiom ul taefia tia z de ta le tafia lique/Zzék gueflux erm dej efi aqueerant cam aJia fzm uJa cra tum j ov ir, colum na in/fj ienr a torea im age hope ,cum Rom e £9:Rom u le een/acra ta , cecidera t. Seve itatues w ere even

m elted by the l ightning, and others throw n dow n am ong the reli ,that of j upiter ereéted on a pillar the im age a lfo of the lbe-w olf w ith

Rom ulu s and Rem u s fel l .’This cannot with any certainty be app lied

to the figu re in quefiion, there having been , doubtlefs, fuch pieces in

m any parts of the city, and even m ore than one in the capitol .

‘

B b 2 bronze

37 1‘

Account of

Cneius

tine

R o M E.

bronze bufto ofLuciu s Juniu s Brutu s , w ith eyes of arr arr

c ient com pofition,'

reprefen ting the natu ra l colou rs , is a.

p iece of antiqu ity ex ceedingly va lued ; as is the fia tu e of th e

ih epherd Cneius Martiu s , of the fam e m eta l , pu ll ing a th orn

ou t of h is foot» He is faid to have been a you ng m an w ho

w as difpatched w ith letters of im portance from th e Rom a n

arm y to the fenate . It h appened that a thorn ran into h is

foot as he m arched ‘ in ha lite bu t, eager to ferve h is co u n~

try , or to bring fom e good new s to the people of Rom e ,

he pu rfued his cou rfe w ithou t {topping to pu ll out the thorn

th is afterwa rds colt him h is life, and caufed the Rom ans to

honour h im with . this fia tue , in m em o of h is refolu t ion

a nd fidel ity . It fiands on a pedefia l o orien tal m a rble,a nd is eitee

'

m e'

d'

for its a ntiquit though , as to w orkm a n

(h ip , ex ceeded by m a ny m odern pieces . Here is a lfo a

bronze fiatue of a fla ve , w ho obta ined h is freedom for d if

coverin the plot of Brutu s’s (on and a lfo the m a rble {ta l

tues of anniba l and Scipio Africanus On the w a lls of“

an;Confu the other apa rtm ents are fevera l fragm ents of the Fall i Con“63. fu lares , w h ich have been e x pla ined and illui’trated by Pan

v ini, Sigon i, Pigh i, and Re land ; l ikew ife m arble heads of

Mithridates king of Pontu s , Ju l ia , Mam z a , Scipio Afr i

cah us , Alex ander the Grea t, and his m other O lym pia ; the'

fi a tu es of Virgil , !Cicero, Cybele, Ceres, Silence, Plen ty ,a Deus Term inu s , &c . in m arble ; a bronze im age,

ofHi sanother ofHercu les , holding an apple ou t of the Hefperianardens in one hand, 'and in the other his club, found in

fire tim e of Six tu s IV . A brafs fiatu e of a flave the bra fs

foot of a Coloffu s , the head and hand of w hich are to befeen in the cou rt ; tw o fm a il geefe of bronze, in m em oryof thofe w h ich , b their feafonable cackl ings , faved the ca

p itol ; a m arble greephagu s, w ith a bqflé-rq/iw a reprefen t

ing the Porta Jan i . A!

m a rble head of Apollo, kept here ,is reckoned one of the m oft cu rious pieces in al l Rom e ;

the h ofe indeed is rather too broad, otherw ife it is perfeétlybeautiful , and refem bles a fem a le, w ith ringlets of fine ha ir.Here is a bufto of App iu s Claudius , of porph and of

Rhea Sylv ia , Ariadne ,‘Flora , Annia Fa u itina , ha l las , Mcf

fa lina , Ga llus , An tiochus, a fem ale Bacchana lian, Lucretia ,Lu cius Cdrneliu s Przé tor, and the em perors Ph ilip, Ma x im ine, &c . in m arble . The four congia ,

'

or ancien t m e a

fures for corn, w ine, and oil , a re of fione . The pa intingsin rq/Eo in the apartm ent w here m a fs is celebra ted, areby erugino, and reprefent Rom e trium phant ; Haniba l

’s

m archo ver the Alps, where he is feen riding on an ele

phant,

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R 0 M E .

the invincible J'ohn III . king ofPoland,‘

and Ch a rles IV.

duke ofLora in .

’

Oppofine to this infcription a re two old {tatu es of Diana

and the geniu s of a Rom an province . Over a boj o-roliw o

reprefen ting a vefi a l facrifice, is a foot of a cololfus , w ith this

verfe under it :

Qua Pedo m oo uta r dubia a] ?fintm tia nobirf O V I D .

O n the double fl igh t ofReps are tw o antique fl am es , one

of j uno, and the other of Faufi im r the m other, w i th the

w ord pa dzirz'

tia under it. Farther on are two pieces in bafireliew , one of which reprefen ts the apothéofis of Fa u fi in a,the otherMa rcu s Au rel iu s givin law s to the pee p

‘e . Thefe

pieces be longed to the trium pha a rch of Marcds Aurel ius,w h ich form erly flood in the Gorfo, and ofw hich m an y m ore

fragm en ts at prefeint adorn the apa rtm ents of th e conferva~

tors defcribed above . In the upper apartm en ts is a m ofi

a dm irable fi a tu e of Agrippina leading her (on Nero by the

h and, wh o is dreii'

ed in th e prwtox ta , w ith a golden bu lla

abou t h is neck, of G reek m firhle .

‘

Here are l ikew ife the

fol low in pieces , v iz. a l arge bronze fi atu e of pope In no

cen t, ca from a m edal of Alefl‘

andro thofe of

Pan , Ma rcellus ; F lora , Plotina, Pa lla s, Bacch us , Apollo,a Siby l looking up to heaven , Sabina Poppaea, Adon is,Ca iu s Ma rius , Confi an tine the Grea t, and Plenty ; the

m a rble fl am e of Pa u l IV . b e tw ix t tw o pil lars of cipol/ino ;Hercu les w hen a boy , plum p, and of the colour . of bronze

,

m ade of a da rk Egyptian m arble , call ed fi la'

o, or

T h is fi atu e was found in the V illa de Ma x im is on m ount

Aventine , and purchafed by the city of Rom e for a thou

fandd ucats . Som e virtuofr, from a (kin of a w ild head ,w hich he pu l ls ove r h is head; im agine th is fia tue to havebeen defigned for W in ter ; others th ink it to be the [on of

Hercu les , ,and pa rticu la rly Hercul es Aventinus , m entioned

by Virgil in the feven th fEneid and th is opinion , for w hatreafon I . know not, preva ils in the follow ing

~m odern in~

fcription under it

I cannot fee w ith w ha t propriety or a llufion this verfe of Ov id is ihtroduced here ; ii) that it wou ld give the Eng l iih reader no fa tisfaftion

were , it‘

trandared .

i

f‘

This [tone is m tntioned by Strabo, lib. x vu . and Pliny , l ib. x x x vi .

So P oQ’o R

‘

l

V

R 0 M E .

S . P . Q, R .

Signum j ffvm tm i Hef air,

Qu‘

em fuper/Iitio a v eter an: actor

Haw a ii: lium dix it,Ruder iom in Av entino m anta egg/it

'

s

Reper tum , in Cap itoliopofu it .

T he fena to and people ofRom e have placed in the ca

p itol'

th is fi a tu e of the Aventine hero, by the fuperli itiousa n cients ca l led the fon ofHercules, found am ong ancient

ru in s on m ount Aventine .

’

T he place w here th is fi a tne w as found is no abfolu te'

proof of its be ing the He rcu les Aventi‘

nu s efpecia l ly a s th is~fi a tue does not anfw er V irgil

’s defcription in the fol low ing

lines

Po] ? bos in/igrzom pa lm a‘

per gram ino ourr um ,

‘

Vifl orgfiueMam e t"equor, fa rm Herrufe pa lcbro

P u lober Av entifl ur, olypeoqao iry'

zgne pa ter rm m ,

ctnfl m gav geritéérpm tibm I -Iya

‘rom .

IRG . fEn . vii . o. 655.

N ex t, Aventinu s drives h is ch a riot rou nd

,

’I?he Latian fields , w ith palm s and lau rels crown

’d.

Proud of h is fieeds he fm okes alon the field,His father

’s Hydra fills the am plegeld .

A h u ndred ferpents bifa abou t the brim s

Th e ion ofHercu les he jufi ly fee'

m s,

By h is broad (bou lders and gigantic l im bs .

DRYDEN .

Bu t here is neither Hydra nor ferpents, as any one who

has’not feen the origina l m ay be conv inced from the pla te

in Montfa ucon .-T he m ofl:va lu able m a rble h eads and bufi s

in the '

u pper‘

apartm ents a re, three h eads of Plato, thofe of

Arch im edes , Ca ligu la ; T raja n , Antoninu s Pi u s , Claudius ,a ufi ina ,

‘ Hiero, A lcibiades ; Diogenes , . Socra

tet, Sappho, Sy lla , D iana , and G abriel Faerno, a fam ou s

m odern poet . The bm fs m onum entum rq ue legzr, brought

h ither from the L ran by order ofG regory XIII . ha s been

ex p la ined and illufl ra ted by Anton ius Augu ih nu s, in h is

treatife d‘

e Legibu s .oLafily , h ere is a m odern pictu re, re

4 B b4. prefentin'

g

375

The Tar

R O“ M E.

prefenting Alex ander facrificing to Jupiter Am m o‘

n. Th u s I

n ave gone through the principal curiofities a t prefent to be

found in th is celebra ted edifice . As for the ancient capitol ,

as I obferved before, it no longer ex ifts . From feveral t e

mains of ancient w alls , it is by Tom e conjectu red, tha t the

tem ple of Jupiter Capitolinus flood on the ground a t prefent

inclofed in the cou rt of the Cafa relli palace . The fam ous

Ta rpeian rock is now a l oft covered w ith bu ildings ; a nd

thou a fa ll from it m ight endanger a m an’s neck, y et a

m ale aor under fentence ofdea th wou ld be very glad to fa ,

tisfy the law b a leap dow n . Hence it is evident tha t a n

cientl the roc m uft have been fieeper, or a w al l m ufl:h ave

been u ilt upon it, from w hich m alefaétors w ere th row n

down headlong. That the height or depth of it has not

under one any confiderable a lteration m a be concludedfrom everu s

’s trium pha l arch at the foot 0 the Capitol in e

h ill , w h ich , w ith the am pitheatre in its neighbou rhood, is

not above two or three feet below the prerent furfa ce of th e

ground.

The Carbognano pa lace on the‘

Corfe affords noth ingw h ich is the w ork ofMichael Anmofi beautiful in the w hole city of

palace

“

Oh the Corfo likew ife {lands a new pa lace bu ilt by the

m arqu is Ca roli (w hofe father is faid to'

have beau a deal erin hogs .) The ou tlide of th is pala ce is reckoned the fin e llin Rom e ; and it y ields to very few palaces for the orn a

m ents w ith in . It properly belongs to four brothers, al l'

u n

married, and one of them is m fim afier-general . Their order to the fervants not to accept of any gra tu ities fromfirangers m akes it fom eth ing difficult to a light of th is

pal ace, the fervan ts being feldom at lei to attend cu ri

ous travellers for nothing ; it would be m uch m ore eli ibletogive fou r or five pooli, the ufu al charge of fpein the nefl:

palaces , than to have the trouble of fendin fig) often to

know w hen it w il l fu it their conveniency ,‘

an be mfim inedfrom a proper freedom of efking quefiions , £1 4, In the.

u pper flory , befides a gallery , is a fair: of (even room s furn ilhed w ith red dam afk and velvet. Am on a varie

“

ofm olt bea u tifu l tables , here are (ome of law s Ila , in w iCha re plain ly to be feen

.(om e teftaceous petrifaétions . The

cabinets are em bel lifhed w ith lapir lazuli, and pa intings i n

min iature . Flora , infrofio, on the cieling, w as pa inted byCleopatra

’s banquet, by Carlo Maratti St.

”

p ecilia,

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R 0 M E .

T h e large feltoons of flow ers in the a lcove, a t the end ofth e ga l lery , were pa inted b Ma rio de Fiori, and th e boys

p la y ing a m on them by Ga rlo Ma ratti . T he roof w as

p a in ted in fi‘

efia by G iofeppe Ch ia ri and at the door, w hena l ittle bridge leads into the ga rden , are two noble pillars ofwar ds a ntico. Anton the fine pidlu res in th is a llery , them ofi adm ired a re Ju l iu s Caefar facrificing, by Cage Maratti ;A d am and Eve by Dom enichino ; a n acre [m m by Alba n ia pz

'

etd by Gu ido Rhen i the V irgin Mary and the infant

J efu s , John the Baptifi , and other fa ints , b Raphael , va

l u e d a t twelve thou fand /21449, or c row ns . urther on , andin th e adjoin ing apartm ent, a re, 1 Venu s by Titian , anoi

tth e r by Broncino, a Ganym ede by T itian , the rape of Eu a

ropa by Alba rii, a fine reprefentation of the ca lam ities of a

p e ftilence by N icholas Poufiin ; a m arketor fair by deBafl‘

ano ;fevera l landfcapes by Ga fperPouflin ; a

gyeat num ber of pe r-3

'

tra its of foreign and Ita l ian ladies ; a enu s b Mola St.

F ranc is by Gu ido the afi'

um ptionof the Virgin a ry by Ru

ben s ; a tOper by Hann iba l Caracci fix pieces reprefentingh e l l by Brughe l , d x . Here is alfo-a priva te ga llery adorn-

1

ed w ith geogra ph ical pieces in fi efio, and the fi a twes of

Ma rtia queen of the Am azons , and four fiatues o fVenus

thofe of Trajan, M . Aurel iu s, Com m odu s, Flora , one of

the Mufes, &c . In the rden is a large bronze eque

fi a tu e ofMa rcoAntonio lonna. Som e of the tables there

are o f a m oi? beautifu l orienta l alabafier, and one of nerd:

entice . In the la rge gal lery is a fl adiolo, or cabinet of

ebony , em bellifhed w ith m afierly fiqfo—reliew’r of ivory, re

ing fcriptu ra l'h iftories that of the lalt judgm ent

is from a defign ofMichael An g elo, and the w hole piece is

va lued at eighte en thoufandfl u i. In another apartm ent is

a cabinet ado rned w ith twelve l itt le‘

pillars of orienta l am e

rhy'll a foot h igh, and cut out of one '

piece ; it is a lfo fet

w ith va riety of gem s and cameo’: a m ong w h ich , the prin

cipa l a re Com m odus a nd the aboveAm entioned Ma ttia f

queen

of t h eA m aaons . This cabinetv is fii pported by three m oors,

m ade of a very cu riou s wood ca lledj a ndro cedrz'

no, w ith fil s

ver decorations . Am ong other cofl’ly fu rniture is a clock, m m“,

fhew ing the hou r of the day , the m onth , yea r, fire . w h ichclock .

is W ound up bu t once a year . Here is a lfo a bed finely gilt, Fume bed.and. m ade in the form . of a (he ll , d raw n by foun fea-horfes ,l ike N eptune

’s trium phal ca r, T his w as the bed in w h ich

Ma ria Mancini, ca rdinal Maza rine’s n iece, lay in of her

firfi ch ild. This lady w as fam ou s for the pallion Kh ich

ew rs

380

Colum n;

R 0 M‘ E.

Lewis XIV . p f France had for her, and her fubfequent un l

hap'

py m arriage w ith the confi able Colonna . The grou nd

floor, w here, by xe nfon of its coolnefs, are the fum m er a

pa rtm en ts , is adorned w ith the portraits of ladies , eith er

born of the hoofe of Colonna , or m arried into it a nd

a m ongfl them is the above-m entioned Maria Mancin i, bu t

h e m akes a m uch better 5 here than in the Pogg io

Im periale a t Florence . On e ciel ing of one of the

m ents a re pa inted Horatiu s Cod es , and the ba ttle of n

ftantine the Grea t aga infl Ma x entius , by Manciola , a le

m ing. Am ong other pictu res here are fom e fea-pieces byTem pell a , two pieces ou t ofOvid

’s Metam orphofrs by N ic .

Pouflin ; flow er and fru it-pieces by Stanchi and you ngB reughel two large piétures , ex h ibi ting the h ifbory of popeC lem en t I . by Ciam pelli ; the trium ph of Ma rco Anton io

Colonna , for the victory ofLepanto ; pope Liberius fix ingon the ground plot of the church of St. Maria Majore byTaddeo Zuccari, fire . Connoifl

'

eu rs,in fcu lpture cannot

‘

fufi ciently adm ire a h a ll ivory im age of St. Jeram , th e

bufio of ca rdinal G ieronim o Colonna , . and a tw ified pilla rof red m arble, near fix feet high w ithout the pedeftal , w iththe im age of Pallas on

’

the top , to be feen here . Th is isby fom e thought to be the Colum na Bell ica in the tem ple

ofBellona, a infl wh ich . the canful , am ong the ancient

Rom ans , ufe to throw a d eclara tion of

w ar. Here are alfo the.Flora , Pal las ,

and Trajan , in a pontifica l habit ; th e m a rble bull s of

Mam m z a , Macrinus , T itu s , Gordianus , Ga ll ienus, Agripp ina the elder, Nero ofbronze , are. l ikew ife two vafes of

fl a m e (If m ore, w hich a ppear to be only a kind of tophu s ,and feveral ancient m arble ,

baffli -reliw o’n of w h ich the m olt

cu rious , al though the w orkm anlh ip be not very ex traordi

nary, is the Apotheofis of Hom er ; the im ages and Greekinfcription on this piece, have been illuflrated by Bellori.The confl ableColonna

’s {tables are inferior to none inRom e,

and are w ell {locked w ith Spanilh , Neapolitan, and Bar,ba r horfes.

The Curia Innocenziana inthe court ofjufi ice, is one of thand coil:Innocent XII . 31 5000,

Rom an

edifice is entirely new , a nd no lefs than four hundred and

Sterling,

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384

Other anti

R 0 M E.

w ild hull w ith a cord, that thu s’

{he m igh t be torn topieces .

Befrdes Am ph ion, Zeth u s , and Dirce, the groupe ex h ibits

a nother w om an

tSprobably the vindiéi ive Antiope ) a young

fl l epherd, a nd a 0g ba rki ng. Am ph ion and Zethu s appeartranfported w ith the m ofl:vehem ent anger and defire of te

ven c, w h illi Dirce feem s overw helm ed w ith dread a nd

i The cord w ith w h ich {he is fa ltened to the w ild

E111, and the dog, in th is groupe, are not at a ll anfw erahle

to the reli . The largenefs of th is piece h as been th e occa

lion of its being m u ch dam aged, as it w as very difficu lt on

that account to preferve it entire for it ex ceeds a ll the other

a ntique groups , cu t out of a fm gle block, hith erto kn ow n ,

it bein eighteen

(pa lm i in heigh t, and fo

T h is oro Fam e e, a s it is ca lled, w as found am ong the

ru ins of Caracalla’s baths , in the t im e of Pau l III . T he

{m a il pieces tha t had been broken of w ere repla ced by G iov .

Barrilla Bianco, a Milanefe, w ithou t the leaft addition of

any th in new ; and it is fu rprifing, tha t a piece (0 large,and con ifting of fuch variety

of figu res , (hou ld be preferved

fo m an es w ith fo little am age

In thea

gm e place fiands alfo an equefi rian itatue of Au

gu ii us , or Severus , fom eth ing lefe than the life, bu t cu t ou t

of a hugle block. Here are a lfo a bu lto of An tinou s , tw o

very fine flam es w ithou t heads , and fevera l heads of houf

hold 8, ph ilofophers , &c.

W i thin the pa lace, on the fl a ir-cafe, are tw o fia tues ina recl ining

‘

poitunc, of river gods , and two fea-m onfiers

and further on , Arion f on a dolph in’s back. At the en

trance of the ha ll [l and the ftatues of two captive Dacia n

kings , w h ich w ere disfigu red by the fervan ts of the Frenchem ball

'

ador w ho once refided here, by pu tting out their llambeau x aga infi them .

be read in Hyginu s, cap . 7 . and [pol/adornsa plate of this groupe m ay be (een i n Mont

ii . Concerniu th is groupe, Pl

thu s : Poll io finim , a tj irit

of having his cu riolities takenwhich are the centau r Zethu s , and Arnphion, toge

ther w ith Dirce , the bu ll, and the cord, w hich w ere a l l cu t ou t of one

loniu s and Tauril’cu s, and brought to Rom e from

1" The author faye Iphion, I (oppofe, by m iltake .

C

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m m v -4l .

l

'R O M E .

bles ofPerfeus and Androm eda , ofG a latea , the trium ph ofBacchu s and A riadne, ofDiana and Endym ion , Venus and

Anch ifcs , Aurora and Polophem u s , Si c. adm irably w el l

pa inted infréfco. Th ere a re ce ppcr-pla tes of thefe p iece s

by Pietro Aqu ila and others ; a nd the adm irers of pa in tingw ill be h ighl en terta ined w ith a book fold b Rofii a t Rom e ,

entitled Ga ! aria del Pa lazza del Da ra di Pa rm a in Rom a ,

calle Food s -tafl ow; a rtim enti di cbiaro afi uro e ornam m ti rip /1r

rbitrttum e Sta tue, col r itriatta e depofito di d nu iba le Ca ra cci ,iuwnz ione e di/égno di Ca r loMara tti, dzfigna ta e

do P ietro Aqu ila , calle Infi r izziani in

B ellor i , libro in 2 5 fog li Imper ia li per tra tm fi .

Bellori gives a fu ller account of it, in h is l ives of em inen t

pa inters . 1 In this ga l lery Annibal Cara cci has im m orta l ized

h im felf bu t h is brother Augufiin had a [bare in fom e of

thefpieées ; and G a la tea and Aurora , to be feen here , ar e

entirely his . Their u ncle Lu igi Ca racci has xalfo given a

fpecim en of.h is {kil l here, in the device of the Farnefe fa

,m ily over th e, door. A young wom an em bracing an un i

corn w as painted by Dom enich ino; Ma lvafia , in his Fell ina P ittriee, ha s given an accou n t of the life of the three

Caracci’s , in which h e prefers Lu igi, m olt of whofe w orks

(a re to befeen at Bologna , to the other tw o bu t Bellori,

«j n J he lives of the pa inters , . prefers Anniba l Caracci to the

tra it. It is certa in , horivever, tha t, like other em inent per

forts , the ir repu tation after death is far grea ter than the prof

per ity they enjoyed w hen l iving. Auguftin died of vex a

tion ; and Ann iba l’s intenfe appl ica tion in painting th is

ra rnefian ga l lery , for w h ich , after e igh t years labou r, h e

(w as very indifferen tl rew a rded, th rew him into fu ch an ir

r egu lar courfe of li e, that it ca rried hh’n off abou t {even

years after h is brother’s dea th . Abou t ten years after he

'

.W as follow ed by Lu igi, w ho died of a chagrin for an over

fight he h ad been gu il ty of in pa inting the cupola . of a

ch urch . It feem s the pa inting v iew ed from the fcafi'

oldingw a s incom pa rable ; bu t w hen that w as taken aw ay , and it

cam e to be v iew ed from the pavem ent of the church be low ,‘

the w hole work w as qu ite difproportionable .’

‘

One of the m olt rem arkable pieces of fcu lptu re in th is,

gal lery is a young veftal , of fix teen or feventeen ears of

age , w ith her m ai l . The innocence, foftnefs, an beau ty

" Sie ‘Mdl‘W fia Fabian Pitrrz'

re, part. . iii. p . Richardl’

on'

s Trea

tfe 0“Pa insisls am !53991s

R O M E .

(i f the face is fu ch , tha t m any connoifi'

eurs th ink it equ a l to

th e Ma tte i Liv ia , or Fa ufi ina the younge r, and accou nt it

a m ong th e m olt va luable rem a ins of an tiqu ity . Here a re

l ikew ife a m a rble fi a tue of Mercu ry , w hich very m uch t e

fem bles An tinou s , a n Apol lo of bafa lter, reckoned the belt

fi a tue ex tan t of th a t deit

y; Ganym ede , Fa u n u s , Hercu les

(p inn ing, w ith Dejan ira ooking on , a ll of m arble ; and a

bu fio ofHom er , of Pa rian ~m a rble, though Pl iny , in h is na Bnfioof

t u ra l h if’tory , (lib. x x x v . c . fays , th a t th ere is not one

gen u ine im age of th a t poet ex ifi ing . The grounds of this

tra dition a re indeed unknow n how ever,’tis fuch a head as

th a t grea t poet need not be a ih am ed of.

O ver the ga llery is a clofet w ith fine pa intings b Anni

ba l , or according to Ma lvafia , by a l l the th ree Chracci’s ,re prefen ting Hercu les del ibera ting, w hether he {ha l l take to

th e w a of virtue or that of plea fu re ; Circe offering the in

to x ica tm g c up to Ulyfl’

es Pericu s andMedufa , w ith other

poetica l fables . The adjoin ing apartm ent, ca lled the Herm it a e , is pa in ted in frq/Za by Lanfranco, and the Frife byS alvia ti and Zu cca ro. I t w a s form erly likew ife rem arkable

for fev era l fine pictu res by Ann ibal Ca racci and T itian ; afine colleé’tion of intaglz

'

o’s , and {om e defigns by Raph ael ,

G iu l io Rom ano, Michael Angelo, Polydoro, a nd Caracci

a m ufeum of natu ra l cur iofities , w ith m any other th in s of

v a lu e, w h ich now are either given aw ay or rem oved to i’a rm a ; how ever, in one of thefe apartm ents is to be feen a

noble fia tne ofCaraca lla , w ith th at of Dian a of Ephefus ,and A tlas bearing a celeil ial globe on his ihou lders, a ll in

m a rble .

II piccolo Farnefe , or the duke ofLungara’s pal ace, be 1 1 9366010

longing to the duke of Pa rm a , is w orth fee ing, w ere it onlyFaw r“

for i ts fine pa intings by Raph ael , G iu lio Rom ano, G au

den tio Milanefe , and Rafaell ino del Coll e . They a re all

in r eg/co, and w ha t l ittle dam ages they had fufia ined, have

been repa i red by Ca rloMara tti, w hole pencil w a s em plo ed

in the fam e m anner in th e Caracci ga llery in the grea t Pyar

n efe pa lace . Th e 110 of Pfyche pa inted in tw elve

partm ents ,Q

w here the

r

ganqu et of the gods, and Venus inh er car draw n by two doves , are (0 m uch adm ired, is the

joint-w ork ofRaph ael and Giulio Rom ano. The Vu lcanon a ch im ney

-

piece in anoth er room , is faid to be ,G iu lio

Rom ano’s, bu t is not w orthy of fu ck a h and ; and l ike a

p icture of Sodom a , in the fam e apartm ent, feem s to be t a

C 2

38-8‘

R 0 M E .

ther the,

work of fome dauber, w ho w a s contem porary w ithRaphael .

On the ciel ing of another room is Galatea am ong the

clouds by Raph a el, h er ca r is drawn by two ox en , on e of

w h ich is w h ite and the other y ellow . In th is ce lebra ted

p iece the colou rs a re m u ch faded befides, fom e critics oh

ferve, th a t the figu res are too fm a l l for the difiance . M ich ael Angelo, in order to conv ince Raph ael of h is error , is

fa id to have draw n , w ith ch a rcoa l; on a w a ll , a hu 3 h ead

of a Fa unu s , w hich {till rem a ins , and is high ly va l Ra

ph ael took the h int, and cou ld never be perfuaded to fin iih

the w ork. W hoever is defirou s of a m ore pa rticula r a c

count of thefe p a intings , w ill be very agreeably enterta ined

by peiufing the tw o follow rng books of prints : One is eh

titled,

Le nozi e di Pfiebe e di l m ore eolle lorofavole, dipirzte doUrbino, nella Logg ia del Signor D a ra di P a rm a

a lle Lunga ra , intag lia te in a rgue for te di N ieoloDor igny , libro in X1 ] . fog li Imper ia li , agg iunta

'vi I

’im m ag ine

del/‘

a fa m oj b Ga la tea del m edefim oRaf afl e dipinta nal/a Loggiantigua dell

’i/feflo

The other,

Deferizione delle im m agini dipinte do Rafi é’

le d’Urbirzo neIIe

Cam ere del Pa la zza ApiflolieoVa tica no col/e defcr iziofl e

Fa v ola d’Am bre e Pfie e depirzta da l fm de/im o nella logg ia

de’Gbig i, ogg i del Sig . D uea di P a rm a in Rom a a lle:Lung a

ra , compo/2a do Gio. P ietro Bella eoll’agg iunta d

’a lezm i r a

g ioua m em i in onore del m ede/im oRafi e'

le, col fieoRitm tto difegna to do Ca rloMa ra tti .

This pa lacew a s origina lly bu ilt by Augufi inoCh igh i ; bu tPau l III . w ho w a s of the Fa rnefe fam ily, found m eans , bu t

fu ch as w ere very infam ou s , to get it into his pofiion . At

prefen t it h as bu t l ittle of its form er m agn ificence , and is

habited by lord R an En o l iih noblem an , w ho l ives

there w ith h is Pfyche’

, w ho w as lately a finger on the Rage

a t N aples .

Ca m i Pa The G aetan i pa la ce affords few rem a rkable th ings , ex

h “ ; cept its fine m a rble Perron , w h ich is accou n ted to be the

finefi in Rom e it'

confifis of fou r fl igh ts, in al l an hu ndred

a nd tw enty fieps , every Rep being ten feet in length , two

in breadth, and ofa (h igh item , is faid to have 0011 ci h ty(“a t

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fl am es.

R 0 M E ,

’

not confiftent w ith h is cha racter . T h is piece has by fom g

been a ttribu ted to Ma tth ia s A lton a Flem ing the m a lfacre

of the Innocen ts w as pa inted by Poufii n , and Jefu s on the

m ount of O lives by Ca rava to. The three Am or in i, or

ileeping cu pids , ofblack m ar e, is a very pretty piece ,'

and

accounted an antique . In the nex t a artm en t are the m af

facre of the Innocen ts by Cornel li, t e judgm en t of Solo ?

m on b Nichola s Poufiin , Chrift’s transfigu ra tion on the

m oun t y Gu ercino, and h is cru cifix ion by Caravaggio th e

gu

go of Ju l ia Pia in m arble, and two tables oforienta l

a er.

In the nex t room to th is , are the refurreétion ofCh riitby Spadarino St . John the evan

gelill by T in toretti ; Mary

Magda len anointing our Sav iour s feet by Calabrefe ; the

widow’s fon of Na in by Parm egiano ; the hea ling of the

m an w ho h ad been born blind, and th e converfion ofMa ryMagda len . In the nex t room a re

,the m arriage of Cana by

Paolo Veronefe , Mary Magdalen .

by Caravaggio, and the

tr'

ansfigu ration ofChril’t by Cioeveta ; l ikew ife a w h ite m a r

ble bufio of Dru fu s , the em peror Va lerian of ferpent ino,Scipio Africanus , of a kind ofEgyptian m a rble ; and h itly , A lex ander the Grea t, ofpietra pa ragone, or touch

-(tone .

In th is apartm ent is to be feen a Venu s by T itian , in,im ita tion of the Venu s de Medicis, ex cept th a t T itian h as

p artly covered h is w ith a kind of drapery of fine . l inen .

Here a re alfo the m a rtyrdom of St. Peter by Sa ltarel li a Ge

noefe a dying Seneca by Ca labrefe, or, according to others

b Lanfranchi St. hi a tthew by Ca racci St . Mark byCya ravaggio St . Luke by Lanfranch i ; three St. John s by

A lbano, Dom en ich ino, and Raph ael ; pope Ju liu s II . bythe fa m e hand ; the annunciation by Bag l ioni i the n ativityofCh rift, or a copy of Corregio

’s La Notte ; the m arriage

of Ca na by Baglion i the m oney-changers and traders drie

y en ou t of the tem ple, by Paolo Veronefe Chrilt crow ned

w ith thorns by Bou rgu ignone the e lder ; the vifita tion of

the Virgin Mary by Mola a Sw itzer ; the annuncia tion , a

p iece h igh ly efteem ed, by Huvet, a Frenchm an ; a piece {till

i ri grea ter eitim a tion , reprefenting Chr ift hea ling the w o

m an w ith the iiTue of blood, by Ann ibal Ca racci a N a tivity

by Poufiin ; Chrift fcourged by the /

e lder Palm a ; Ma ryMagda len by Caravaggio Chrift appearing to Pe ter in the

V ia Appia by Annibal Caracci the wom an w ith the ifl'

ue ofblood cured, by tou ching ou r Saviou r

’s ga rm en t by Dom em

chino Chrift feeding of five thoufand perfons, bythe far

c

r

l

ie

R .o M iE .

h and Chrift entering Jerufa lem by A lbano ; Chrill con

ferring w ith the Scribes and Pha rifees , fcourged, a nd ca r

ried ou t to be cru cified, 1 three by Ca ravaggio ; Ch riftw ith th e two difciples a t E au s by th e fam e the three w ife

m en of the cait by Gera rdino a Florentine ; the V i

i/gin

"

Ma ry’s fl igh t _

in to Egypt by’

Va len tin a Frenchm an a a

donno b Correggio a defcent from th e , crofs by Gu erci

no and,

the w om an taken in adu l tery by Rofli a Milanefe .

I l ittle ex pected to fee the portra its of Ca lvin and Lu ther Portraits of

h ere, w ithou t fo e ignom in iou s circ um fl ances . Here are 53

m“

:

and

tw o fine reprefen

‘

ll

a tions of the de lu g e in a labafter . Oneu c

pa rticu lar apartm en t in th is pa lace is filled w ith above forty Forty por

port ra its of the V irgin Mary , m oit of th em by Raphael .

A l l the ja um bs of the doors in the u pper apa rtm en ts , are ofbffii‘

phfil’,

v erde a ntieo. Here a re a lfo fevera l pieces of fcu lptu re , and

tw o porphyry u rns , a table of green m arble, tw o pi llars of

v erde a ntieo, w ith capitals of ferpgntino m a rble, tw o others

of yel low m arble , and tw o of porphyry ; an Egyptian idol,Hygeia, Dian a , one of the Mu fes, Harpocra tes , Apol lo

w 1th Marfy as’s (kin, a gladiator, D iana of Ephefu s , Mar

fy a s , the m other of the gods or n a tu re , w ith m any brea l’ts

and heads of feveral anim a ls on h er body ; tw o fm al l cen

tau rs ; a fin al] equ eftrian ftatue of Ma rcu s Au reliu s , l ike

th e at one in the capitol a Venu s Herm aphroditis tw o

bra s fia tu es of Hercules and Mercu ry, abou t three feet

h igh , and grea tly adm ired b judges ; the form er an

tiqu e , the la tter by Francefco iam ingo the Egyptian Anu

bis , w ith a dog’s head in h is ha nd in bronze ; and laftly ,

a n adm irable piece of fcu lptu re by Mich a el Angelo, repre~

fenting a dead Chrift ca rried by Jofeph of Arim a thea or

I

gl icodem u s, in m arble, and fom eth ing lefs thanthe natural

ize .

N ex t to th efe com e th e bufto’s

_ofJ upiter Pluv ius , ;J upiter

Am m on , and tha t ofNero, accoun ted the belt in Rom e of

th a t em peror ; l ikew ife of. the old prince G iuftiniano byBern in i ; the ita tu e of pope Innocen t X. of terro rotto, bythe fam e h and ; and th e heads of a horfe and an ox , bo

antiqu es , a nd of w h ite‘

m a rble .

On the cieling of the fa m ou s ga l lery belonging to this pa Ga llery.

lat e the life of the em peror j uftin ian is fine ly pa inted in

fi efio, by“

Lu igi Zuccar‘

o, or,a

‘

ccordin to others , by Pe

ruzzi. The l arge m arble fi a tue of l\ inerva j n a rm our, in

C -c 4. this

R O M E.

‘

this gallery , is faid to have coft fix ty thoufand feua’iven thoufand w ere paid for the head only , which w as not

found for fom e tim e after the other part had been dug u pam ong the ru ins of the tem ple of Minerva in the Cam pu sMartins : how ever, in the judgm ent

'

of fom e, it does not:

com e up to the {ta tue ofMele er tha t {l ands by it. In theopin ion of the connoiffeu rs , thji neft piece in a ll the ga lle

i s a he-goa t in w hite m a rble . The beau tifu l veital is a i qv ery m u ch adm ired, both for the face and drapery . The

fl a tues ofCleopa tra , Capronia, Leda , Fauftina the younger

Ceres , Harpocra tes, Apollo, a Bacchana lian , Silenus ,nus com ing ou t of a bath , Vitelliu s, Dom itian, the em pe

ror Juftin ian, fEfcu lapiu s, and Diana w ith a dog ; the

buflo’s ofPindar, Hom er, Socrates , the Sibylla T ibu rtina ,

{Ianu s Bifron s, Faunu s , Ju l iu s Cazfar, T iberius, T raja n,efpafian , T itus , Vitelliu s , Cla udius, Albinu s , Max im ine

(of ferpentine ) and a Info- reliev e ofApol lo, NIinerva and

the Mufes, a re all fine antiqu es . The m odern pieces to be

feen here, are, a copy of the Cleopatra , facing it, by Bernin i a fi atue,

‘

by Bernin i, of his ow n fon '

; and a head of

Cha rles V. by an u nknow n hand. The landfcapes in this

gal lery are by Bruhl, a Du tchm an.

I h ave h ere confined m yfelf to a fm all part of the curiosfities i n th is palace, as a pa rticu lar defcription of it wou ldh ave filled a volum e, both on account of the great num berof

'

origina l paintings, w h ich are no iefs than feven hundred,and th e

‘

antiqu e m onum en ts , w h ich are n ineteen h undredfive hundred of w hich are fta tues, a s m ay be particula rlyfeen in tha t pom pou s w ork, ca iled Ga ller ia Gizg/Iinia na , pub-sl ilhed a t Rom e, in tw o volumes folio, in 1 631On the (pot w here th is pa l ace {l ands w ere anciently the

bath s of Nero and Severu s fo that at lay ing the new fou ndation , grana te, bafolter, and other kinds of fine m arble,w ith a great num ber of Rattles , bufio

’s ,

and bqflof relievo’e,

were found there, w h ich a re noble ornam ents tothe pa lace

The palace of cardinal Gua ltier i, formerly belonging tothe Manfron i fam ily , abounds w ith cu riofities , the g

‘

rea teftpart of w h ich we re pu i ch a fed from the prior Antonio Renfi ,

The l ibra ry, w h ich confiits of above th ir -five thoufand

volum es , w as' m oft colleéted by ca rdinal u al tieri, w h ilfl:

he was nuncio in France .

‘

Am ong the paintings to be fem

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n o M a.

hundred and twen ty com m on paces in a direél line . Otherscom pu te th e breadth of the Piazza del Popolo 1 to be an

h undred paces , its length a h undred and th ree , and the w hole

length of the -Gorfo an Ita lian m ile and a hundred and ten

geom etrical paces, each pag e being equ a l to five feet . The

ou tfide of th e tw o ch u rches above-m en tioned is adorned w ith

Very fine pillars and fi atu es ; and w ith in , the architeé’cu re is

a dm irable and ex actly un iform . S . Maria del Mon te San to,one of thefe chu rches, w as fin ifhed in the year 1 675, and S .

1 Maria de’Mira coli, the other, in the year 1 6 9 both w ere

bu ilt by cardin a l Gu afi a ldi, w ho h as a very fine m onu m ent

in th e latter . The brafs bu il d s of the ca rdinal and h is bro

th er are by Lu centi, a nd the beau tifu l w h ite m a rble fta tues

of the V irtu es a re the w ork of Anton io Raggi.'

T hefe

chu rches w ere bu ilt u nder the direction ofBern in i and Carlo'

Fontana , and w ere deflgned b the form er. T he cardina l

by w hom they w ere founded, had, for a confiderable tim e,

been treafu rer to the apoitolic ch am ber, w h ich occafion ed a

fa rcafm to be throw n upon h im , nam ely , Th a t thefe

chu rches w ere bu ilt by w ay of ex piation for the im m en fe

w ea lth he h ad fo u njufi l am afied ; and th at it w ere to be

w ifhed al l w ho h ad the lingering of publ ic m oney felt fu ch

rem orfes of confcience, for th en new chu rches w ou ld rife

apace in every great city .

’The obel ifk in the Piazza del

“

Popolo flood form erly in the Circu s Max im u s , and w as

brought to Rom e from Heliopal is in Egypt, by order of A u

gultu s , a s is m entioned in the infcription on the pedefia l ;bu t as th is obe l ifk w a s not fou nd on th e pedefia l , both be

ing dug u p a t fom e dil’tance from each other, th is m igh t e a

l i ly h ave been another obel ifk, fet u p in the Circu s Ma x im u s

by Conf’ca ntine the G reat ; efpecia lly a s tha t ofAugufi u s is

fa id to h ave been a hundred and tw en ty-five feet h igh

‘w herea s the height of th is obel iik, ex clufive of the pedefi'

a l,according to Ma rca ti

’s treatife a

’e Obeli

f'

z

'

s , is bu t eigh ty-e ight

feet,’

or a hundred and feven pa lm z'

. n the yea r 1 589 , th is

fuperb obel iik w a s , by order of Six tu s V . (to w hom th is cityow es m any public w orks of ornam ent, a nd u tility ) rem oved

from the place w here it had long been bu ried in obfcurity,and erected here . Th is arduous w ork w as h appily conduét‘

ed by h is favourite arch itect Dom enico Fontan a . Tw o fides

of th e pedefi al . are taken up by the follow ing anci ent in

fcription :

1 That is, near the two churches, wh ere it is broaden, and as it w erethe bafis of the triangle,which term inates in a point near the gate

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R 0 M E .

Pietro di Cartona : One reprefents the rape of the Sabines,and the other the battle of Arbela . Here are a lfo a Venus ,

in a recl in ing pafiure, by T itian ; a head by Albert Durer ;

and fom e by a-reliev e? and antique fl am es.

TheJa im ie Of the Pa lazzo di Salviati is

archite ure . In this pa lace are a lfo fom e ood pain tings byCaracci, a Ganym ede by T itian , Dianaby Correg io, the

rape of Europa by Albano, and a confiderable n um ber Of

fia tu es and baflE-rdiw o’s .

Palazza 83. The pa lace of prince Savelli, at prefent, belongs to the

Orfin i fam ily ; bu t of all th e fine pa intings for wh ich it wasonce fo fam ous , none are now rem aini In the court are

to be feen two . beau tifu l m a rble J arco gi, adorned w ith

bqfq-reliw o’r. Over the entrance is another bqfia-rdiew of a

gladiator encountering a l ion and other w ild beafi s ; the ex

preflion very an im a ted, bu t far furpa ll'

ed by tha t adm irable

piece of fculptu ie over the door of the hal l w ith in the pa lace,w hich reprefents Marcus Aurel ius

the Rom an eoplew It is in the

fiands the celebrated m arble ofC. Pom pil ius .

In the Palazzo di Spada is the fam ous m arble fl am e of

Pom the Great, w hich is the only one in Rom e of th a t

h’ero. ts he ight is near twelve feet ; in one hand is a globe,and the other is ex panded, as if he w as harangu ing the

ple . It w a s found in the tim e of Jul ius III . not far

the place w here‘

anciently flood the Curia Pom peii . T he

m olt rem arkable pa intin here are, the dea th ofAdonis byG uerc ino, the rape of filler: by Gu ido, and cardina l Berbardino Spade, a t ful l length , by the fam e the death of

Lucretia by Daniel T edefcho, the interview between th e

V irgin Mary and her coufm Elizabeth by de l ~Sa rto, w ithfeveral other pieces b Calabrefe, Piacentino, Volterra , Tad

deo Zuccha ro, a Fabrizio Chiari . The heft Rat tles in

this lace a re thofe of Flora and Seneca .

Pa lazzo di e duke ofT ufcan’s pa lace, near the chu rch of S.Lu igi

Tufcm i 0”de’Francefi, called P di NIadam a, w as buil t by ,

CaMadam "

therine de Me dicis before the cam e tobe ueen of France ;bu t is rem arkable pa ly for its Iargenefs . I

c

lhall fpeak of the

V il la deMedicis ih another place .

Verofpi pa The Verofp i pa lace conta ins abundance of fine picturesand fl am es . Am ong the latter, in the court, areAntoninu sPius, M . Aurelius , Apollo, Hercu l es kil l ing the hydra, J upiter, Diana , and Adrian ; on the parrau or Reps before thedoor, a re, Bacchus , Venus; 8m . and in the apartm ents,

N a m ia

R O M E .

Na rn ia in a fitting poll u te and w eeping over an u rn, w ith a

flam e ifl'

u ing ou t. of it ; Minerv a , of a l abafie r, G anym ede

,

and Com m odu s in the habit of a gladiator ; Olym pia s , m o}ther of

‘

Alex ander the Great, al leep , w ith a ferpent tw inin

round her right arm ; Hercu les , Venu s , a (m all {tam e oi"Minerva, the body ofw h ich is of touch -flone, bu t the head,hands, and fee t of m a rble ; a lion of' brown Eg pria n m ar

ble {om e Egyptian idols of very cu riou s Fort o marble a

bea u tifu l head ofAn tinous , ofgreen Egyptian m arble J ul ius Ca far, of porphyry , the fam e of green , and ScipioAfricanu s of black Egyptian m arble ; a

’

bu lic of Jul ia of

flow ered orie nta l a laba iter ; A lex ande r the Great of blackEgyptian m arble, w ith an ova l grou nd of Sicilian

'

a lper

Otho, of porphy l m a rbl e bufio’s ofAugufi

'

u s, T ibe ri us;

T rebon ia nu s G a l u s , Gordianu s , Cybele , Livia Drufilla,Anton ia , Dom itia , Cornelia Sa lon ina , Liy ia , Poltina , Ven us , Adon is , Ga l l ienu s, Ph ilippu s , Velpafian , Adrian , Ah

tinous , Heliogaba lu s ; a bqflé-ralim a of a facrifice ; another

of Ba cch us on a throne ; fbm e ferpentine va fes, (om e orien

ta l al aba ll er u rn s , and a fine cabinet of Iapu q uh’

. Am ongoth er fine pa in tings be S. Carlo givi aim s by Calabrere ,

’

Orph eu s and Eu ridice by Antonia de a Corn ia , and

Su fannah by Rom anel l i ; an an

gel

.

del ivering Peter ou t of

prifon by Calabrefe David lt i mgGol iah by Borgiann i

fevera l view s by V ivi an i Ch rifi driving the buyers and fellers o u t of the tem ple byManfredi ; landfcapes b Pouflin and

Pa u l Bril ; the prodiga l ion by Cal abrefe an other adm irable pieces . Q n the cieling of th e ga llery is a fine piece in

by Alban i, reprefen ting the fun in the m iddle of'

the

ac, w ith the va riou s efi’

eéts of its influ ence on the earth .

Th is palace is particu larl rem a rk able for the Gal leria Arm o:

n ice , in w h ich. are four garpfichords on four fepa ra te tables

and, to a l l appeara nce , w ithou t any com m un ica tion w ith one

a nother. Th e la rgeft of the four has fevera l {tops and

w h en the m a il er is going to play upon it, hem akes the,other

th ree and an organ accom pany it ; or only tw o or one , of

403

them ,

'

ufl as the audience plcafes . Befides th is Pa lazzo Ve Another

rofpi, t ere is another of the fa m e nam e, near theGh i i pa V exolpi na~

lace, in the Corie , not far rom St . Ma rk’s chu rch . This “7" "e”

dred a nd fifty m a rble fi a tu es th e m olt adm ired am ong th efe

a re, Ju l ia Pa u la , h’l inerva , one of theMu les , Pertin a x , A

pol lo, j upiter, Ceres , Diogenes , Anton inu s a very la rg eI N W

figtu e, Si len u s , a gladi a tor, a nd G a nym ede , levera l Egy pd 2 tha t

St . Marlt‘

s

pal acew ell deie rves a travelle snoti ce , a s i t conta ins t wo hun chu tch r

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R' O M E: 407As I iball defcribe rheae in al phabetical order, the willa h A ldo

Aldobrandina , near St. Dom inic'

s church, on Monte Ca ,br

va llo, is the firfi w h ich offers itfelf ; and, indeed,'

both fora rch itectu re a nd del ightfu l gardens , cla im s the preference to

m e lt of the Villa’s . The M om front is e

'

m bell ifl l ed w ith

feveral antique bafi -rd iw a’r in m arble. Am o the pa int

ings in the apartm en ts a re , a Bacchana lian, by i tian ano

th e r by Bell ino ; qu een j ohanna , by da Vinci ; Judith , byT it ian ; the coronation of th e Virgin Mary , by HannibalCa racci Pfyche gazing on a fleeping Cupid by th e ligh t ofa

la m p, by the fam e ; the tw o fam ous civilians Bartoli and

Ba ldus , faid to be done by Raph ae l ; if (0, they cannot beorigina ls , thofe lea rned perfons being prior to Raph a el b a

gre at m any yea rs . Here are a lfo the buffo’s ofHom er, e

neca , Ma rcellu s , and V ir il , in m a rble ; the fia tue of an

h erm ophrodite fitting ; a Pgaunu s , w h ich is high ly va lued ;

Venu s fitting on a peacock, and two m en engaged a t th e

rag/fu r. In the ga rden are feveral m arble coffins , or chefl s

bu t the grea teft cu riofity is in the fum m er-houfe, w here an

an tiqu e piece of pa inting infrq/co is to be feen, w h ich is fa id Antitrusto h a ve been dug u p in 1 607, in the Eql

iline m ount, a t the”m ung m

p lace fuppofed to have been ancient] aecenas’s gardens .

T h ere is no form ing any conjedi u re when or by whom it w aspa in ted : how ever, it is a good p iece, and reprefents a Ro

m an w edding, or a bride led to the bridegroom’s bed-cham

ber . A pla te of it m ay be (een in Bartoli’s Adm iranda ,

N u m b. 6 1 , 62 . and in MilTon , Tom . ii . p . 1 52 .

T h is v il la , a t prefent, belongs to the PM fam il bya m arriage of prince Cam illo Pam fil io, u ncle to pope lim o

cent X. w ith donna O lym pia Aldobrandina, aunt to pope

Clem ent VI II .

W h‘

a t c h iefly recom m ends the villa Ba rberina a lli Ba ltlo Villa Barbe

u i, is the fine profpeét of the city it 215 011 18 , and its beau tifu l t ini

ga rdens . Here are [om e good paintin s ; pe rtienl a view

of the old cathedral'

of St . Peter’s , anffeveral portela n v afes,

pa in ted by Raph ael . Near th is v ill a is the baition , before

wh ich the intrepid Charles ofBourbon loll his life i n 1 527.

T he Benedett i villa , near the Form di S . Pancratic, was V il la Benc

bu il t by the Abbé El idio Benedetti, agent for the crown of40 5

France . In th is vii_a, both the infide and outfide of the

w al l s are covered w ith proverbs and m ora l

th e firfi:ga llery , even w ith the ground floor, are the pictures

of French and Ita lian ladies , namely , the countefs LauraColonna, Montefpan, and Va liere

D d 4 however

R 0”

MLE .

however, the infcriptions in th is lery a re a ll poin tedaga inft the fa ir-fex . Of thefe the fo low ing m ay ferve a s a

fpecim en

Lit Donna ride quandopuck ,Erpiange gua ndonude.

A w om an la ughs when {h e can,bu t w eeps w hen {h e pleafes .

’

Le Donne

P er pa rer a brutte.

Moll w om en disfigure them felves

by afi’

eéting to appea r beautiful .’

La Donna 2com e il Org/fe lla ,S’e11a urta da infa lIa.

W om en are like cryfi al one

fa ll breaks them both.

’

D anna ,

‘

cbep a r la m enta ,E com e a nd pia zza m ezza peg/27,

A w om an tha t del iberates isl ike a fort ha lf lofl .

’

Fem ina a v ents ,

8: ra m bz'

a in a n m om enta .

J

W om en and the W ind are ever changing .

’

On the w indow -{bu tters a re to be feen the heads of ce le

brated Rom an ladies , a sMartia , Ju lia , Au rel ia , Calph urn ia,Accia Scribonia , Livia , Drufilla , fEm ilia Lepida , Meflhl ina , habina Poppaea , and fevera l others, w ith h ifiorica l in .

fcriptions'

. One apa rtm ent ex h ibits infcriptions aga infl: acou rt l ife ; another aga inftw a r in ibort, a ll of them con.

ta in u feful adm oni tions of one kind or other, a nd ex cite the

reader toa virtuou s and prudent conduf l . I h ave here tran

fcribed the follow ing l ines from am ong the refl, wh ich m ayafford you fom e enterta inm en t

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R' O M “

; E‘

In the gardens are a t leafi tw enty beau tiful w alks , and a l l

the v ill a’s a re . term ina ted by flatnes, l arge h eads, o r dragons

fpou ting w a ter. . He re are alfo fevera l groves an d fii ady w a lks

of oaks , lim es , cyprefss trees , p ine s , pom egranates trees , a nd

law ? (an ever-green refem bling the laurel the efrn l iers con

lift ofjell'

am ine or orm ge-trees, m yrtl e, 850. In other p a rts

of th e garden are feparate littl e p a rks for deer and h ares , a nd

a w a rren fort abbets . Here is alfo’

a la r e canal {locked with

[w an s and a ll kinds of aqu a tic fow ls . ver another en tra nce

intoth is garden are two antiqu e fphyn x es of granate . In tw o

la rge and lofty aviaries , w ith founta ins p lay ing in them ,a re

to -bo feen al l of the known fea thered fpecies ; and over a door

betw een thefe av iaries is a m a rble head ofj u l iu s'

Catfar . T h e

fiow eragarden ex hibits the m ofi bea u tifu l flowers and te

m ark able v egetables . On th e gra nd a rea before the pa l aceare tw enty

-fou r {tone edefi a ls ; finely ca rved, for. flow er

pots , w ith fur ancient am es , h arnely , thofe‘

ofFa ufi ina th e

you nger , A rippina , Luci lla , Ju lia Soom ia w ith a oblet,Ceres , a nd aufi ina the elder W ith a veil . T h is ho e con

nil s of a qu adra ngle , the four {ides of Wh ich are em bel lifh ed

w ith {l a tt es and ba’

fi joined togetherw ith fuch {killand p

'

m priety , a s if they had been m ade to be thus p la

The num ber of fl am es, are. bein too great for a detail .of

them , I find] only m ention the m cilt rem a rkable and thefe

a re bu lio’s of Gets , Tra

'

an , Adrian , Deciu s , N ero, and

Gordian‘

the fl am es of leda ‘

r’

cu s Au relius , Mark Anthony ,Ju piter, Bacchu s a , Apollo, a priefiefs of Bacch u s , Ma

rius , and Sc ipio Africanus ; a bqflo-relievo, reprefen ting th econdlulionofthe peacebetw ix t the Sdbin es and Rom ans a n

equeih'ian {ta ttl e

‘

of Penthefil ea queen of the Am azons the

h unting of bea rs , w ild boats , and l ions, in th ree fepara te

W -r élim’r ; theBa cch ana lian and other facrilice s a T au

robol ium , a nd a la rge and m ol t adm irable p iece of fculptu re,found in the Forum Rom anum ofC urtius l eaping in to the

Ch a im ,

‘

al fo in bqfio-rd iw o'

; an’

equ efl rian fi a tu e by PaoloRem ano, and of Robert Mala

‘

tefia , genera l to Six tu s IV .

T he w hole circum ference of the bu ilding is (even hundredand th irty

-fou r pct/m i, ea ch 1i tolm i bei equ a l to n ine inch es

or 3-4th s of a roya l Raris foot . The ouble perron or fl ight

of fieps, leading ca the firfi fl oor, is adornednucopia

’s , a nd varies em bnl liflau l w ith W ad iz‘vo

’r. In the

firfi court a re the m arble fl am es of one of the Mufes , a Sa ‘

tyr, Jupiter», Venus} Ga lba, a ntl a captive Pentium king , in

porphyry ; the heads of J u lia .Augufia ,au m a,

R 0 M E .

Paiil ina, M . Ap teliuo, ahd ' Dom itian, Dom itia h‘s w ife

bafi -r elim’r of Hercfl a

’s labou rs , the {to of Leda , and

th e vu lture preyingon Prom etheu s’s l iver. he fi rfi room

one erasers into'is fix ty pd m’

broad, and n inety long , and isadm i red W ith tw elve pillars bf gird/oha l i t e, card: antiw , gr it

nt'

ro,

’

and porphyry, which are above fifteen pd m i high . Onth e w all s on each fide, are fou rteen m arble bufio

’s , nam ely ,

thofe of Scipio Africanus; his illufirious antagonill Anniba l,and the twelve Ca fars . A fl am e ofBa cch us, lying upon an

antique tom b, in the pollu te of a river-god, is a m alle rlyp iece ; as are the m a rble ofi -rrliw o

’r over the fix doors of

th is apa rtm ent, re relenting the m atrim on ial cerem on ies fl ed

th e ancients , t e dea thofMeleager, th e fiories ofN iobe,eftor, Am phitrite, and Prom eth eu s. Am ong the p aint

ings h ere, the m olt rem m kable a re, 3 Fam e by d’A rpino,

tin: creation of Ad am and Eve by th e fam e ; a refu rreétion

bf Chril l , and Jofeph w ith Potiphar’s w ife by Franc

'

efeo Ci°

vol i the lull Judgm ent by Cl am pel li ; Judith w ith Hol i~

phom es’s ha d by .

aglloni ou r firfi pa rents unde r the for

biddén tree, and the ir ex pu lfron ou t of Paradife by Pa lfigna

n i ; a Crucifix ion by Tem pell a ; the cava lcatle of Pa u l the

fifth’s ta king poll

‘

efi on ofthe Latera n cathedrah , and the u lna!de of the T urkifh em peror w hen he rides abroad , both

y T em pefia ; la fefia diT el’caceio byMaggi ; the Cara fello

or Carrouza l, in the tim e ofPau l V . in the cou rt of the Beltb

vedere in the Vatican , by Acqua fparta ; a m afquerade, w i th

a trium pha l our by J. Paul Seor a Germ an ; and the piétures

of feveral herfte beautifu l] (potted.

In the nex t room is a e piece , reprefentingDavid, W ithh is fl ing, m arch ing tow a rds Gol iah , by Be rn ini ; w hofiM o, cu t b him telf, is a lfo to be (een h ere . In this apa rte .

m om i s a celebrated an tique fl a m e of Seneca ex piring in the

bath ,'

ofblack m arble . He is reprefented as a decrepid old

m an , Wi t fainting, through lofs ofblood . The ex profiion ficzeco natural , and the colour of the m arble give it a

m ore m ancholy appearance ; but the baton“Afri can m ar

bl e, iii-wh ich he (l ands, is a m odern

am t-inn and Massim o; a « a n a t

”

Va n: M O 19“,(aid to t e

'

the workoffi’ « Pra i ri e, a d“ tu r d

OW w a M ;M qfl m d afi om d on

Q

or t

R 0" M . E .

bthers of bra -rid ; the fla tnes of Diana , Apollo, and Juno,the latter of porphy ry , w ith the head, liands , and fee t of

m a rble 1 The hum ble fuppl iant a ttitude of this fi atu e h a s ih

duced fom e to im agine it to be Da riu s’s queen throw ing her

felf a t the feet ofAlex ander the G rea t. Am ong the pa in t

ings are tw o capital pictu res by T itia n, one of Sam pfon en

gaged w ith the Ph iliftines, the other of Sophon ifba Angu ifciola , w ith h er father and brother ; the efpou fa ls of St . Cath erine is b Perugiano the Virgin Mary, w ith her div ine

infant, by odom a St. Jerom b Maziano . ; St . Ca th a rine

(

ffSienna by d

’Arpino, and theV

’

enetian Pregadi by younga lm a .

In the nex t apa rtm ent a re the antiqu e fia tu es ofBacch u s,Apol lo, and N a rcifl

'

us , w ith infcriptions , bu t of littl e im

portance and Ica ru s, or a Gen iu s , and a Baccha n al ian pro

ceflion in bafi -reliew the buflo’s of Bru tu s and T iberiu s

two antiqu e va fes of a labafter pla ced on tw o pil lars of orien ta l

granat'

e tw elve pa lm i h igh a t able of touch-(lone ten pa lm iin length a nd five broad, w ith a border ofye llow broca tellodi

fl ag-nu , and a (m a l l bronze copy of the Farnefean bu l l {tand

in

lgupon it . Here is a lfo a fine p iece of pa in ting ofD avid

’s

ory over Goliah by Ca ravaggio, w here the pa inter h imlblf perfonates th e gian t, and h is fon reprefents David th e

p ictu re of Jerom is by Vafari , St. G eorge by Sa lv ia ti, and

John the Baptill preach ing in the w ildernefs by Bel lino, or,

as others th ink, by Pardinone .

In the nex t apartm ent the princefs Bor hefe and her fol

d iers a re pa inted by Ferdinand Franz a lem ing ; the de

fi r’

uétionofT roy , w ith E nea s carry ing of? h is fa ther by Barsocci, and the council ofT ren t by an u nknown h and. T h e

rcfl a [panam a/a , or terrible head, to be (can here, of w h ich

the Ital ian s give fuch frigh tfu l a ccounts , is fi tter for a {hewin a fa ir, than a cabinet of cu riofities , it be ing on ly a largew ooden head, m oving and im ita ting the braying of a n a fs .

B erc‘

is a new bufio of S . Ca rlo Ba rrom eo, ofw h ite a l

on a pedell al of red Egyptian m arble, w ith the a n tiquebu ild s ofAugu lius , Lu ciu s Verus , ,

Marcus Aureliu s , Jul ias a , the younger Brutus , and {om e u nknow n Gre

°

an

heroes . The m arble fia tue of E nea s carry ing h is fa th is

byBern in i f.and the grou pe of the m etam orphofis ofDaphne,” peof the

‘

by rfhfi fa m e hand, cannot be ex ceeded ; and though Be rn ini

M s ofw as but

‘

eightecn y ears of age w hen he m ade th is adm irable

Daphn iueee, all connoifl'

em a agree, that it i s not only Bern ini’s

bait paj am as,»but d i r m fl efi-

piece:of Min ut e w hichm odern

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( 1 4 R 0 M E .

3, Cartaca lla, and Com m odus ; a piéture of the Vir'

n

ry kifiing her divine infant, by Pafiignani another hi sdonna in an Eg prian drefs , by Serm onetm and a th ird,w ith the infan t efu s , by Sodom a .

Another apartm ent ex hibits ta group of Fa u ll ina, w ith her

m in ion Ca rinu s , the gladia tor, and another gladiator in a

fi hting poftu re . Th e latter is reckoned the very finefi piece

offcu lptu re in th is fuperb v illa , and one of the m olt va

lu able rem a ins of antiqu ity . The fia tu a’s nam e cu t on it

ibew a it to he the work ofA alias , an E efian . Th is ad

m irable fl a tue w as difcovere d in the tim e of Pau l V . am ongthe ruins of Nero

’s ga rdens at Antium . Here are a lfo tw o

pillars of breca'

a , each tw elve pa lm i high , and tw o of r

h ry, fluted, eleven pa lm i high 3 a table of inla id gem s e igh t

pa 5 long, and five broad ; a m ofi bea u tifu l touch-floa t:

M -reb'

w a on a ground of Iapi: lazul i, reprefenting th e Bac

qhanal ia , by G iov . FrancefcoFlam ingo ; the bufio‘s of Bere

n ice, Liv ia Augufiza , Annia‘Fauflsina , and Luciu s Verne.

Am ong th e pa intings are, the Rory of Adheon , a capita l

piece, by Bernardino Cefare ; aTorcerefs by Dofi di Ferram

gi ggles killing Anteus, by Lanfra nch i

cifthe

b Ba ll’

an o, and a bufio ou r Sav iour b

Mich aelyAngelo.

porphyry Y

The nex t apa rtm ent conta ins the fl am es of twoMoors of

touch—fione, w ith a drapery of flow ered alabafier ; likewi fetw o brafs fl a tnes , w ith a drape of flow ered al abafler ; thebuflo ofLivia Augu fi a , a Gree king, Geta , and a priefiefsof Ceres a la rge table of touch-lions, a bronze bufio of

Gregory XV . the re furreétion ofChrill:pa inted byGraffag

n ino, a Pieta and Gregory the Grea t by T addeo u ccari.In the lafi cham ber of the ground floor, betw ix t two pillars

of black m arble, each ten feet high , is a large fla m e ofA

grippina or Ju lia Mam m‘

a s , m other to Alex ander Severu s ;and l ikew ife a Rom an confu l , w ith a celebra ted fl am e of

Faunu s w ith Bacchu s, when a child, in h is arm s thehufio

’s of Vefpafian , Adrian , Lucius Veru s , 8x . a black

m a rble table nine pabm'

long and fou r broad , w ith a bronze

horfe (cop ied from that (ea t to Ffiance b Danielde Volterra lupon it . Betw ix t two other pillars of ack m arble, ex actlyrefa nbl ing thofe oppofite to them , is a fia tu e of Venu s , a

{m a ll an tiqu e piece . Am ong the paintings are , a la r e picture of a fa ir by Ba ll

'

ano ou r Sav iour w ith the M od fciples

on the road to Em aus by Scarce lino ; a capital piece of til;ba t

R 0 M E

battle between the Rom ans and the V3]! and Fidenates byG iofitppe d

’Arpino, fi e .

In the ga l lery of the focond floor, a re two pilla rs of varie

izod m a rble, and two of a yellow iih m arble ca lled Marcia ,ding in the four corners , and the fiatues ofFlora, Ce res ,

Mercu ry, Cl aud ius Dt ufus , Marcus Aurel iu s , a fleepingnym ph , a Na iad, Venu s, Bacchus, a w ou nded glad ia tor,and two Fauni ; a m arble groupe of a goa t and a Fa unush anding a cu p to a fatyr, and the he ads of a {ea-horfe ando an

elepha nt, of m a rble the builo's of Licin ius

Apollo Thyatm us, a Grecia n lady , Marcu s Au rel iu s , Aun

gufi u s , Cleopa tra , 8m . a la rge antique va fe o

adorned wi th id'

s—M a rc’s ; a porphy

ry oval table ten

long, and four in its grea tefl:diam eter, w ith Pega fus d

ing upon it. Here are a lfo Venus and Vu lcan pa inted in

fry ?»by G iulio Rom ano, and the four‘

Seafons over the fou rdoors by F . Fia n in the eleven m olt h um us rivers in the

world, and the sfi'

em bly of the gods on the cieling, are both

by the cava lier Lanfi anoo.

In the n ex t a am nent is to be {een a (hu ll ftatue ofj u liaw ith

'

s ibort i nfcription :

If. Aug . D . J . V. Ti . Imp . M

O ther curiofities in th is room are, a grou pe ofFaufl ina ,w ith her favourite gladia tor, and Cupid ; the fl am e of P8 123,fou r Egyptian idols, two o£ bronze, and two of

m arble ; a Cupid iii

ofA uguflu s , w ith a globe in h is hand ; the flam e ofBel ifil

th i s, or rather of Diogenes , a fina l! bronze centa ur, a fina l?

grou pe of Hercules encountering a l ion , and an ox in blackm arble . The pa intings a re , a portrait of a firltana , nam ed

Ra fa, celebra ted for her beau ty ; a Venue by d’Arpino a nd

fevera l grotef no pieces by ScipioGaetano and Pa dovanino.

The hennagbroditc, w h ich gives a h a l i te to the nex t apartm ent, is an antique iece, and juiltly adrnired : it w a s foundin digging th e tion of the church of S. Maria de ll a

Vittori a , where form er ly. were the Sal ufi'ian ga rdens ; the

hands and legs are particul a rly adm ired : the m arble m attefis,’

on wh ich this {tam e lies, is a beau tiful m odern addition byBernini . Here is a lfo a fina ll fia tue ofVenu s lam enting her

11a m in clipping Cupid’s w ings , and another of the fam e

goddefi; com ing out of a bath 5 a table of touch-hone , nine

pd m z’

long. and four broad , a bufio of Antonina ofbronze,an

4 1 6 R O M E .

and thofe ofFaufi ina the m other ofOttacilla , Gordian, and

Dec iu s Va lerianu s , of m arble . The fiory of Sixfannah is

here pa inted by Sa lviati ; a n'

d Venu s and Cupid, togeth er

w ith a fa tyr on a touch -{tone grou nd, by Titian

In the th ird apa rtm ent {l ands a curious antique

Egyptian w om an, the body is ofblack m arble, and the h ead,hands , and feet of bronze . Here are alfo the follow ing a h

tiqu es ,v iz. a

groupeof Bacchu s and Silenu s , Bacchus w ith

a h ttle fa tyr on is ihou lders ; a fea nym ph w ith a {hel l in her

hand, Venu s , Silenu s , and Bacchus ; the heads of T rajan,G a lba, Liv ia , Berenice, and Helen in a Mi a-relieve, on the

chim ney-piece . T he portraits of the prince and princefs of

Borghefe a re by Ferdin and Franz, befides feveral other p ic

tures by Gaetano.

The fourth apa rtm ent is adorned w ith a (m al l fiatue ofHarpocra tes , a table ofbrocaddlo, w ith a fina l] groupe of the

cen tau r Nefl'

us ca rry ing ofi"Dejanira ; a looking-

gla fs , w ith

a fram e five pa lm i long and three broad, m ade of flow ered

al abafier, jafper, lapi: la anIz'

, and other precious fiones , Cu

pid, a fl am e ofN iobe , by fom e fuppofed to be a Siby l\a

celebra ted antique centaur , w ith a Cupid riding on his back’

;

the bufio’s of Gordian , Ju lia s a , Nero, and Alex ander

Severus .

In another apartm ent is a m arble fiatue of Nero, when

young, in a confu lar habit, and w ith a golden bu lla abou t his

neck ; the other fia tue in the pretex ta is Vefpafian : betw ix t

thefe fia tues (l ands a fine table of al abafier : clofe to a Chi

h efe bed in th is room , a re two Corinthian pillars byMich aelAngelo, and a bronze bqfl

'

a—reliw o ofAlex ander the G rea t ;~the fl am es of two Faun i, and a Morpheu s of touch-{tone bAlgardi ; the heads of the confu ls Lucius Vitell ius and Flonanus ; a fine porphyry ba Diana pa inted by Lorenzinodi Bologna ; ou r Saviour, w ith the Virgin Ma ry ; and St.John, by Paflignano.

In the nex t room are the heads ofLivia Augufi a veiled,and a prieftefs ofCybele a modern fl am e of a fem aleMoor,

w ith w hite drapery , and a ch ild ; the threeGraces , cu t out

of a hugle block of m arble ; Cneius Martins pu l ling the

thorn ou t of h is foot, a m a rble copy ; two Haves, one lam enting h is fervitude , and the other rejo cing at the reco

very of h is l iberty , em blem a tica lly ex pre ed by a bird perched ou h is h ead a nd a (m a ll groupe of a fa tyr draw in a

thorn out of th e foot of a Faunus . On a table of a laba er

are two crabs ofgilt bronze , and.a petrified Fungus a fol

dier°

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Grotto.

Cu riou s w a

,R O

,M E .

Near the w ine-cel lar is a del igh tfu l grotto, and in it a ta

Ble three a nd tw en [min d in length ande ight broad, of one

pieCe ofw h ite m ar le in la id w ith braca tella

W ithin the cou rt of the ga rden pav illion , one fees a fu r

prifing variety of w a ter-w orks , cau fed by app ly ing fevera lW ater and pneum a tic engines to one foun ta in, ex hibiting a

fl ow er of ra in and ha il , a m izl ing ra in , the fun,a m itt, a

h edge-hog, &c. Here is another grotto al fo, w ith vari ety

of wa ter-w orks , w hich are fuppl ied by the aqu educt, from

th e Fontana di Trev i, tha t runs th rough th is ch a rm ingvilla .i

I am perfuaded you w ill not be difpleafed, that I h ave

tranfcribed the follow ing regulations rela ting to the garden of

the villa Borghefe .

m11‘s Bu rgh/fa r P inOrg/fa: [we edico

Qu ifqu is es, fi liber ,Legum camped “ue bit: tim es,

Ito gu t} voles; ra rpito guns tucks,Abita , qua nda voles.

Ex rcrz'

s m agi5 M e pa rantur'

guam bare,ii a ureo Seru lo, a lai m afi a a urea

Tem

forum fecur itarfi cit,

erred : ages pre gere bermSit bit a m icopry g t; bangle volunta s.

Verzim fi qu it dole m a leLaban:fria rs

Urba nita tis lager freg erz'

t,

Ca vea t nej ibia m icitz

°

¢ fi h’

m tur

Moor/24m fra ngat.

I, the keeper of the v il la Borghefe , give no tice, that

;whoever thou art, if thou art'

free , thou needeit n ot fea r

any ih ackl es of th e l aw ihould refl ra in thee here go w h ere

thou W ilt, ga ther w h a t thou pleafefi , and {l ay or go w hen5 it is agreeable to thee . Al l thou fecit is ra th er for th e en

terta inrnentof {h angers than of the ow ner ; .w ho, m indful

of th e inéitiin able freedom of th e oolden age , ban iih es from

f‘

th eié tranqu il m anfions th e ri'

d aw s inven ted in th e iron°

zige let’ood m anners be the onl law to be obferved h ere.

Bu t fho dft thou w an ton] an delibera tely bre ak the”

gol den ru le th a t good-brée

'

ing dictates, bew a re l eft the

Pm‘

J

R 0 M E; I t;Voiced gardener ihould alfo break through the bounds ofcivil ity a nd friendfh ip .

’

Am ong'

the fine fi atues in the cavaliere Cafali’s villa , on Villa Cami;

the Monte Ca el io, are a fm al l antiqu e Venu s , w ith a dra

pery from the w a ift dow nw a rds , in the fam e attitude w ith theVenu s de Medicis , and Julia Mazfa , the

“

m other of Ju liaSa tm ia , and gra ndm other of Hel iogaba lus ; this fia tu e w asa t firil deh ned for the oddefs ofChafi ity , on w hich accountit ha s a veil on , and holes round the h ea d, in order t o fix a

glory or radian t crow n ; and, w ith a child in its a rm s,

m igh t very w ell pafs for the Virgin Ma The other m orem arkable {tatues to be feen he re , a re , ercu ry , Antinous,a nd a m u ti la ted Juno withou t a head, bu t the

'

drapery

'

is

gre atly adm ired

T h e vill a Ceii in the Via Flam inia , belongs a t prefent to L:wasd’Aqu afparta , bu t affords noth ing very rem arkable,

ex cep t a fia tue of the city ofRom e trium ph ing over the Da

cians , in a fitting pofiure, w ith two,

captive _kings and twoor th ree l ions cut in Egyptian m arble .

The villa Corfin i, before St. Pancrace’s gate, yiel

ch arm ing profpeél , and is adorned w ith fine paintings,a very elegan t garden .

0

A t the m arqu is Co u ti’s villa , near the Porta

.

Pia , a re V illa Cofia v'

no lefs than forty-th ree di erent w ater-works , bu t they are but W

“

m eanly contrived, and focus very puerile . How ever, the

vil la is w orth feeing, on account of the {tatu es ofAdonis,T rajan, Marcus Aureliu s, E fculapius, Hercul es, Geta,Flora , 8 m. Here are alfo feveral p ieces of painting by Gu i

Rheni , T itian , T em pe ila , Lanfranch i, Gu ercino, and’v

Arpino ; a thong w h ich the difcovery of Tru th by T im e isaccou nted the m o valuable.

Th e Fa rnéfe ga rdens include the grea tefi part of m ount The Fam efiPa latine, and the rand entrance into them is from

,

Cam po Vaccine . t the bottom of th e perron or Reps,beau tifu l antique fiatues of Ju lia Augufta , and one of the

Mufe s , two of Mercu ry , Meleager, a nd a gladia tor.

~At

the.top of the fieps , in the grotto, is a beau tiful founta in,

and the fiatues ofApollo, Mam m aea , Plotina, fEfcu lapius ,Ma rcu s Aureliu s, Com m odus, and~Lucius Verus . Here are

alib two fia tues of captive kings in ch ains, that ofPoppaea ,Nero

’s em prefs , w ith a countenance over

—clouded w ith grief,

8st Riebwdfdn’s Tm tife orfPainting and Sculpture

E e 2

0

R 0 M E.

wh ich is finely ex prelfed Otacilla , Faufiina , andLiv ia.

Au o

g ufius’s em prefs . Many of thefe antiques , w ith other fine

ieces ofm arble, and bqflé-reliw o’: w ere taken ou t ofVefpa

han’s am phithea tre, by order of Pau l III . w ho w as of the

Fa rnefe fam il In the year 1 72 1 , a difcovery w a s m ade

here ofAugufius’s ba th s , or a t leafi thofe of th e Augu fian

fam ily , w ith a fuperbfafade entire and w ithou t dam age ;bu t th is , togeth

'

er w ith other cu rioftties dug up a t the fam e

tim e, w as , during the fell ion of a conclave, ca rried aw ay to

Parm a Th e feetch after rem a ins . of antiqu ity is vigorou flycarried on here, and th eir pa ins are not on ly rewarded w ith

porphyry , firpentirze, g ia llo a ntics , and other cu rious forts of

m arble, but w ith fevera l entire fi a tues and pilla rs ; for, indeed, few {pe ts can be m ore prom ifm g than th is, the im pe

ria l pa lace having form erly flood here . Severa l {ta tu es of

Vénu s have been brou t to l ight from am ong the ru ins of

N ero’s baths , as .ir is uppofed ; and a few years ago fou r

hundred of th at em peror'

s coins w ere dug up in the Sa la N e

ronis . As they are now digging in fearch of antiqu ities , th e

u pper pa rt of the ga rden ex hibits a confufed fcene of fragm ents ofpilla rs, bafl

'

o-rd iw a’3, and fla tnes of orienta l gra

na te, alabafier, porphy ry ,J ase . ~Here is a pom pous infcrip

tion , w hich was fet up in, the year 1 726, in honour of theduke ofParm a for his h

'

u e ta ite'

, and l ibera l'

in ernbell ifhin th‘efe garde

ns . On the declivit of the ill, tow ards St’.

Theodore 3 church , feveral ve loftyy cyprefs trees have been

p lanted, w hich have a fine ea . In the vau lts a re depoftted the fevera l pa rts of the fupcrb trium phal a rch , w hich ,on a new pope

’s taking pofiéfiic

'

m b f the Lateran chu rch , is

erefi cd before thefe ga rdens . Noth ing ca nbe m ore grand,th an the view from th is hill , of fo m any noble ru ins , as the

tem ples of Janus , ofRom u lu s and Rem u s , the Circu s Ma x

im u s, the Kofi ra , the capitol , the tem ples of Vefl a and

Peace and beyond t hefe the Cam pus Vaccinu s , w h ich fillsthe m ind v ith a ple aftng m elancholy . Form erl the w eeklym eetihg of the A

’rcadian s w a s held in thefe dim s , and ‘

the

ru les'

and orders of tha t academ y '

are Bil l to feen here cu t

on m arble ; bu t a t prefent they m eet in the vil la G innali ,on m o

'

um Aventi ne , not fa r from St . Sabina’s chu rch . The

Arcadian a cade m y wa s e il abliih ed for the im provem ent of

poetry : {La tih'

and Ita l ian poem s being here rec ited and cri

J'

Plates of’th isfa fa dr , and of the ciel ing

-

pieces , pa inted infrefm intim e ofthe tom e s, are

.

to. be few m Montfaucoh‘

s antiquitie’.I

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R 0 M E .

a bufio of Adrian , of red ja t’

per, a m o“:beau ti ful gem , w ithdeep red (pots on a green ground, Ste . The fm a l l filver coin

fhew n Here as one of thofe w h ich Judas received for h is tre e-lChery, w ith a head in ralim a , and on the reverfe a

.

flow er , is

very probably a Rhodia n , or Parth ian piecef A fi lve r {h ekell ikew ife fecn here, is abou t th e bignefs of a fpec ie dol lar .

‘

Here are a lfo th e follow ing cu riofities a bea u tifu l bafi w eliw o

of the‘

na tivity of Ch rift, on m arble , w ith a border ofjew els ,and a nother ex qu

’

ifite ba é-reliew of a ba ttle , in ivory ; ai

p'

ge tty pieceof fcu lptu re, in wood, reprefen ting a fheph e rd,

h i s flock, and Cupid over h im ; and feveral m edal s and ca-Zm eo

’s the a rm ou r a nd horfe—furn itu re of the u nfortu n a te

Frangi an i, beheaded a tV ienna a bufioof A le x ander V III.

bf the higi fam ily by Bern in i ; and Piu s the fecond’s ri ng,

;fet w ith a very fine ruby .

~

Am ong th e pa in tings a re to be few a portra it of Piu s V .

by Carlo Mara tti,'

the battle of the giants againft the god s byBrandi, Venu s by Padovan ino, two perfpeétive view s by C a

dazza, a cop ofTitian’s m artyrdom of St.

.

Peter, and a de adChrill by Al ert Du rer.

La v illa del Th e v il la of Ju liu s III . w ithou t the Porta del Popolo , a tP a a Giu lioa t? prefent belongs to the apoftol ic cham ber, and is the p l a ce

Where forci n em ba ll'

a‘

dors a l igh t w hen the make th eir p ublic entry: tw as bu ilt b the celebra ted V ignola , w ho l ikedthe defig

‘

n (0 w el l , tha t e has given a p la te of it i n his bookof arch itectu re . In the portico a re (even antique bron ze

h ea ds .

"

The’

ga llery in the fron t of the pa lace is pa inted w i thfefloons

,Sec. by Raphael .

The vill a'

G iu itinian i {l ands on a pleafant h ill facing thePorta del Popol o .

’

Am ong other rem a ins of antiqu ity , h ereis a very

'

la rge'

in'

arble fl a tu e of the em peror J u ftinian , fromwhom th is fam ily w ou ld be thought to h ave defcended andl ikew ife t he Palm yrea

'

n infcription ,°

Diz°

i

w h ich has a lready proved a m atter ofgrea t perplex ity to‘

fev ef

ra l‘

profou nd antiqu a rians . I cannot om it a lfo the fol low i ngepitaph toBe feen here

Here lies Am ym one {the w ife] ofMarcus, a wom a n off

great bea u ty and goodnefs , pi ou s, cli afte , modefi , indur

f‘

triou s ,‘

and~

fruga l , w ho f'

el‘dom wam lcrcd from hom e, or

{Lnegleéted’her dom efiic afi’airsf .

R 0 M E. 593Som e of the fl am es have been rem oved to the Giu ll im an

I

ardens on m ou nt Cle lia .

The v illa Ludov ifia , on m ount Fincio, is now in the pot? V illa Ludo

fefl i on of prince Piom bino . T he vilta’s in the ga rdenS

'

a re

very beau tiful , and adorned w ith fi a tues , vafes , a nd

r eliw a’s . Tw en ty

-fou r la rge u rns are placed round the pa

l ace , in the form of a n am ph ithea tre ; bu t there is no getti

a fight of the apa rtm ents , for w h ich fom e frivolous ex cufare m ade by the fervants .

T he v illa Ma ttei ne bMonte Cel io a lla N avicella ow es Villa Mi !m olt of its fplendor to the duke Ciria co Ma ttei, w ho left fix

m ’

thou fand frudi a year for repa irs and im provem ents to be

m ade in this v illa , befides thofe he m ade in h is life-tim e . Inthe grand avenue facing the hou fe a re above feventy (m allfion e coffin s or tom bs , and urns , w ith infcriptions two ofw h ich , a t the front of the hou fe, a re very large, being near

fix feet h igh , and of a circum ference in proportion . N eitherthe founta ins nor the fia tues on them a re of any great beau ty .

.

T he labyrinth is bu t m ean , and had form erly a’fione in the

cen ter, w ith a ridicu lous difi ich engraven on it, w hich has

been prudentl y rem oved.

In the theatre, a s it is ca lled, is a grana te obeliflt (confilling of tw o pieces joined together ) w h ich is th irty-fix pa lm ih igh . It form erly fl ood in the Ca m pu s Ma rtius, and tow ards

the top is em be ll ilh ed w ith‘

fevera l Egyptian h ieroglyphics .Here i s l ikew ife a large bu fto of Egyptian m a rble , about

w h ich , as in m any oth er a rtic les , th e an tiqu a rians cannot

agree. De Seine w ill have th is [Qu ito to be defigned for Jupiter Am m on , Ficoron i a fl

'

erts it to be Alex ander the Great,

a nd Montfaucon is no lefs pofitive of its being the head of

Serapis . A la rge {tone tom b, or bath ing-velfel , w ith a befo

of the n ine Mufes and tw o m a le figures is to be feen

here the length of it is ten , the breadth fou r, and the depthabou t five pct/m i . Th a t it is a fa rcophagu s is concludedChicfly from this infcription fa id to be legible on it :

P ina r iur Panterar Oppz'

ae Labia. M rfim s .

Though I could m ake out no fu ch words ,"

This vefi'

el ferved

Fil ippo Neri m ore than once for a pu lp it. In another partof the garden is a large pillar of or ienta l granate, w ith abronze eagle. crow ned on the top, w h ich is the Ma ttei arm si.Near this villa are the ru ins

'

of the Claudia}! aqueduct5 ? 4 which

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R O M E .

Florentineaw orlt, ten [m i long, and fix broad, w ith an

ova l of flow ered alab er in the center. The defigns on a

table inla id w ith cryfta l are indeed a ttribu ted to Mich aelAngel i) , bu t a re certa in] the w ork of a m eaner hand, and

.no m ore his than the ceiefi ial globe in the adjoin ing room ,

w h ich is likew ife faid to be m ade by tha t at tili . Th e pa int

ings , to be feen here are, Chriib led to h is crucifix ion , byGaetano the Virgin Mary w ith the ch ild Jefu s , St. Johna nd Sh

gofeph , by T itian ; and feveral other piece s by del

Sarto, afl'

ano, and Tem pe'

fia . Here a re a lfo the m a rble

bufio’s of Petron ia , Sabina , Plotina, and Leo XI . w ho w as

of thehoufe ofMedicis .

In the third room , befides the celeftial globe m ent ioned

above , a re tw o tables of flow ered al aba iter, and an oth er of

alaba iier a nd inla id Florence-work. Th is and the n ex t

apartm ent are adorned w ith feventy-two portra its of em ig

mnent perfonages of fevera l na tions .

'

Over the door fi ands a

m arble head ofJupiter Am m on ; and above it the fea en

em ent a t Lepanto, pa inted by Tem pella .

n the colonade before the

garden are four noble p il la rs

ofa'

palina, and fom e others 0 oriental alaba lie r ; a m arble

va l'

e five or fix feet h igh , adorned w ith a bW -rd iew of the

facrifice of Iphigenia , and the fia tues of fix Sabine m a trons ,

one ofw h ich is a m afierly piece . The front of the hou fe

towards the arden is decora ted w ith fevera l

reprefenting‘

ercu les fighting w ith a l ion, (ac

yeral kinds , and w ith forty fia tu es and bu il d s . On th e Reps

jiand tw o lions ; th at on the left-hand as you com e from

the houfe is the be ll , though a m odern iece ; on e of the

fore-feet refi s on a red and wh ite m arble all, and u nder it.6

are thefe words

0pm Fh winu Vacate Rained ,

The work ofFlam inius Yacca, a native of

e are alfo the fiatues of Silenus , w ith Bacch u s or Sa.turn ; of

o

Mercury andMars , or a gladiator, a ll th ree by a

m odern harid, and ofbronze three“

kings of por hy ry ; and

farther up, near “

the garden, a fourth of the gm e ll one .

In the garden is a rem arkable Ratue of Venus upon a fou n

tain , and in another place a fl ath e of Rom e trium ph ant, in

a fittin ofture ; two largevafes of orienta l grana te , w h ichform er y elonged to T itu s

’s baths , and w ere placed h ere

by ca rdina l Alex ander cle Medicis 5 twp, large m a lked heads

'

R Q M'

E .

by Nliehad Angelo, and an obeliflt of E

gyptian

em bellifl l ed w ith h ierogl hics : bu t the fine piece of al l is

a dying Cleop atra , w hic is an ex quifite fiatue abou t three

tim es as large as the l ife, w ith a V iper tw ifting itfelf round

h er arm it ex actly refem bles that in the Va tican Accord-t

in'gl

m Plu tarch , fuch an irn e of Cleopatra w a s the m a ild

' '

ngu ilhed part of Augu

’igl'u s’s trium pha l procefiion

that: im age w as probably the original, of w h ich this fia tuo

m

13 a COPY:On the other lide of the ga rden rs a groupe ofNiob

’

e w rth.Group“ ;her ch ildren

,and Diana and Apol lo {booting a rrow s at:

The num ber of figu res in this“

grou pe a re fifteen,bcfides a horfe li anding u pon a m ok. Tbe whole is cu t in

m a rble , and one ofN iobe’s fons is of Parian m arble

,

da ugh ter endeavours to fhelter herfelfbeh ind her m other ; bu t

none of thefe'

figu res have efcaped the injuries oftim e. Moatof them a re as big as the l ik , and N iobe is m uch bigger a

they w ere dug up w ithou t St . John’s ga te , together wi th th e

giradiators now in the Tribuna a t Florence. Pliny, in h isifl .

’

N a t . lib.

'

x x x vi.‘

c. 5 , fays , that it w as not known

whether the grou pe of iobe and her ch ildren in the rem -c

ple. ofApol lo Sofianu s a t Rom e w as the work of Pra x inel eeor Scopas j

but there is no certainty that th is N iobe in th e

villa Medica is the orig i na l m entioned b Pl iny, and m u ch

le t'

s is the fltil l ofPrax tteles or Scopas to judged of b this

perform ance. And though Pl iny h ad been m ore pa rtieq in

h is defcription, and the N iobe of Medicis had correlponded“w ith it, th is w ou ld not

'

abfol'

u tely decide the point ; m any co

pies being m ade by the ancients from one admired ori inal ,and a t prefent not dilli ngu iihablefrom it. The poe fable

ofN iobe is rela ted‘

in the fix th book ofOvid’sMetam orphofis.

T he v illa Montalta, planned by Shim s V. w hen cardina l , Villa Monhas loft a grea t dea l of its beau ty l ines it w as fold, in the “it! “ Nev

yea r 1 696, to cardina l Negron i : how eyer, the garden {til laffords fom e goodwa lks , and a few water-works. Near

the gre a t can al i s an elegant founta in, by Bernin i, adornethw ith an im age of Neptune,

tfianding betw ix t Apollo andMe rcury .

'

Round the court of th is hou fe, w h ich fiands it»the m iddl e of the garden , are fevera l a ncient ea rthen u rns

and near the entra nce are two flam es ofMarcel lu s and Man

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R 0 M E .

net a little for Madam e de'

Maintenon’s modell-y beingofi

'

ended a t it, a drapery w as fuper-added, by wh ich m eans ,

fam e pieces from th is de l ica te fi a tu e w ere broken

In the th ird apartm ent a re the fiatu es of

a Grecian queen, Bacchu s , and An tinous

of boys at play, by Algardi, and a fine in la id table.

The fou rth is adorned w ith (om e d‘

paih ti by Ba ll

,

fano, the river N ile of Egyptian m ar e, a m arb e head of

Pappirius , and a table of la m a cbella .

The fifth and 1311 room has in it. two piEtures b PaoloVeronefe, Taddeo Zucca ro’s fam ily by h im felf, w i fom e

Other good pa intings t he bufio’s of Va llerian , Vefpafian ,

Dom itian, and Mam m ara , w ith an old fi atuc of a Przfica ,or one of thofe w om en w ho w ere hired by the ancients to

tree at fm iel 'al s ; 3 (et of creatu res to whom wh at the poet

h l rfhly fays of the whole fex IS perfea ly applic

Falfe tea m they [hed whea’fer occafion calls ,

And teach their eyes to w eep .

’

Am ong the flam esbit the ground-flour are Cybele.

pot! a lion, Diana, Hercules , one‘

of the Mu fes, an Her

m aphrodice, and a ma rble groupe of Jacob w reftling W iththe hinge] by Algardi . From the fam e artifi

’s hand a lfo

cam e the bra fs bu llo’s of Innocent X. of the houfe of Fam e

fiii, and hf the fam ou s donna Ol m pia NIe ldachini (h’

m ho

linell’s fifier-in-lm , a nd gran m other to Giov . Ba ttills

Pam fil i, Si c. ) Here are a lfo the fi atues ofMeleager, Ceres,Dia na , T itus , and D iadum enu s . ~ Th is vill a , w ith t he

ga rdens , doc

“

is aboiae'

flve Ital ian m iles in c ircu it , and w asu ilt from a dehga ofAlga rdi a p a rticula r defcription and

account of ib m ay be {can in a work called Le Sta tue e m

Pa flgflia inrq lia te in aqua . rte da Dom enico

in 84. 0i 8’m ezzi fag]: Imperi a li . T he

bondu io of the Aqtua nol ina pafling through i t to the Au

reii an road i s a great conveniency , and {applies the w a ter

W orks .

I do not know whether the anther w as u ilinfm ned in th is pa rtienlar ; it being'the genera l opin ion in France, tha t this w a s done a t the deh rs of the la te duke of Orleans , w ho had feveral ;piéh ires at Balace

'

Roya’

l

pa inted blach‘

on the fam e account.

432 The Counu'

y about

is the only prince w ho c a n force na tu re . t Bu t th is a ra

tlficia l and fum ptuou s {plendor foon a lls an'

d m olt people

of ta ll e, for a pleafant w'

a lk, preferRl arley , w here a rt ha s’

not ex cluded nature, but the beau ties of each are as it were

placed in contrali .

L E r r a a LIV.

or Tivoli, Frefcati, &c. and a . Country abou t

HE country abou t Rom e is plea l‘

ant ; but, like thereli of the ecd eftafi ical (l ate , th in of inhabitants , the .

m elancholy confequence of the w ant of trade , the m u l titu de

of m onks and ecclefiafi ice, the rapacity ofm inifiers and p a

pa l fam il ies, w ho, during th eir tem pora ry grandeur; en rich

them felves at an rate . Alon the del icious pla in s betw ix t

Rom e and T lvoh, Frefcati , feletri, one . neither tow n nor

village is to be feen ii) that, in harvefi-tim e, the peafa n ts

of Vi terbo, Perugia , and the m oun ta inous parts of St. Peter

'

s pa trim ony , refort thither to help the few w retched in

habitants to get in their corn . W hat gives this cou n try a

v orfe appearance is , tha t the m ountainou s pa rts , on a ccou nt

of their fa lubrious a ir, and coolnefs in firm m er, are gen e

lsra

l

rl ly chofenr for building, preferably to the dry fcorch ed

ains .

Frefcati fia nds on a m oun ta in, abou t tw elve Ita l ian m iles

fi'om Hom e. In the w ay th ither are to be feen the ru ins of

the Claudian aqueduct, of the em peror G al lienu s’s coun try

feat, and the tom bofAlex ander Severus , in w h ich .

w as found

the cofi n of tha t a nperor, a t prefent depolited in the ca p i

g ? A i n‘t-in gentlem an converfm g, atVerlailles ga rdens, w ith a Frenchm an, upon the dilk rent m ethods of laying out g ardens 3. and g iv ing the

preference to na tu ra l beau ty , the latter an l'

w ered, C‘

ey? ban pour an yeti:wa it a n Roy de Fra nce deft fan

-er In na ture. T h a t m ay do

0 w el l enough for a priva te gentlem an ; bu t a king of France ought toe

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Q

The country about

could not refra in from aéts of bru tal , and even unnatural

l u ll w ith h is W ife"

in'

h la daughter’s prefence ,

ral violent attem pts on her petfon al li) . To put a period to

foch‘

ihdignit ies ,’

{he h ad retou rfe t‘

o ho

mofi defperate attemptw hich her fa ther

’s horrid vil la iny prom pted her

‘

te . She con

cea led two a lfa ll'

uis in her cham ber; who w ere to m m’der

her fa ther in’

h is lleep ; bu t w hen the dre‘

adful'

inonient‘

ca rh e,

the tuio v illa ins W ere

'

féizedW ith fea r, or;fudder’

i rem oi'fe ,

a nd lh ew ed a reluctancy to perpetra te'

tlie m urder. Uponthis , the

‘dan hter,

‘in

'

a tranlport of rage; (h atched a f ili ti s“

the hands ofone ,p i the all

'

aflins ,“

and {tabbed her father as he llept, who ertpired am idll a deluge of blood.

Th is dreadful cataflrdphe h ned in the tim e ofPa u l'

V .

a nd the ma ther'

and brother ing‘

privy'

to the del i a , th eywore al l three behead ed before the cali le ofSt nge o . The

ew ed them no.

'

other favour; no.twithiim ding theyabable fam ily , than tha t of od fi infifom e guns;to

he fired, at’the t im e of their ex ecution , from

’

the ca l l lebe

of

a

Other w ater-work s ,‘

the cafcade in the w ildernefs is

ived. In d‘

l e‘

pal ace , Wh ich affords a lfo a noble

a re ten m arble bufio’s, twowrit ing—tables em bel l iflaed

al l kinds of figures in Florentine w'

ork,”

and a n igh t

giece of a landfcape‘

c'

overed'w ith fnow .

g

The v illas ofBelpoggio, Aquaviva , Arigone, that of'

t'

he

duke di Sora , and (om e Others, I‘

ibal i nor pretend to def

c ribe particula rly , a s travellln‘s feldoni have {6 m uch lcifure

gigto l ittle judgm ent as to th row aw ay th eir time'

bn com

m on objects . Abou t two Ital ian m iles‘from

‘

Frafda ti flood

43;Q iodrofs T u fcu lum ; and on the road’to

”

Matino '

the‘

ru lns

d i the tcelebra ted gardens of“

Lucullus are‘

ftill tobe feen .

l ies on a hill , about e ighteen Ita lianm iles from

M eubut gtheu road to it is en tirely level . A rem a rka ble

rivl lkflm gglfg Salfom aa tbfiw ater of, whic]?is

w rte,

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The Country abou t

In th is pal ace is to be (con a Venu s in the attitude of

th at in the tr ibuna at Florence , bu t larger. T he cha pel is

fam ou s for its a lta r-p iece , on w h ich is a fine Madonn a .

T he fu ite of e igh t room s on th e ground floor are beau tifu l lypa inted infrag/co by Frederico Zu ccaro, Mohano, a nd T em -

f

fta . Here is a lfo a fin a ll im a rble grou pe of the N ile , a nd

tw elve boys fporting abou t it . Form erly , in the ga rdens

w ere foun ta ins adorned w ith the fi a tues of Leda , E fcu la

piu s , Areth u fa , Pandora‘ Flora , Pom ona , and Antinou s ,

w ith the grottoofVenu s , a Sybil , &c. bu t the prefent ru in-5

ou s condition is a pla in indica tion of the'

abfence of the

owner : how ever, m of’t of the w a ter-w orks a re kept u pfor, a s they a re eafily fuppl ied from the An io, they cannotbe very cha rgeable . The la rge bafou ju fi before the pa

l ace, w ith a fi a tu e of a horfe in the cen ter of it, fu rn ifh es

a great qu antity of w a ter . N ea r th is bafon is a long row of

fom e h undreds of e agles , pyram ids , va fes , a nd other figu res ,hut ih

'

{tone a nd fix ed on edel’ta ls , w ith bafi -reliw a

’s of

fiories taken from,

a nd w ater is sjccted by a ll of them . T h is row of figu res being fom e hu n

dreds of com m on paces in length , is a v ery e legant ornam ent and a t the end of it {l ands a {h ip w ith its m a il s and

r igging as it w ere engaged, and v orou lly defending itfelf

by ejecting w ater from a ll pa rts . n an em inence nea r‘

it

is a reprefenta tion of ancient Rom e , w ith its tem ples , circi ,thea tres , obelifks , ba ths , columns , triu m ph a l a rches , and

aqu educts but as it is m ade on ly'

ofbrick, it is now fa l lingto decay . Th e g irandola , or dragon founta in , throw s up a

v afi colum n of w ater to the he ight of twenty pa lm z'

, the fal l

of w h ich m akes a very agreeable noife . T he w a ter-orga n ,

over w h ich is a bea u tifu l ltruétu re adorned w ith"

fi a tu es andbqfi is a lfo a cu r iou s pi ece of w ork and the fi eepcafcade, w here the w a ter a t once precipita tes itfelf from a

confiderable height w ithou t Preps , is alfo in a good taite . Inthe low er part of theg ardens lie tw o la rge fragm ents of a

Coloffu s fou nd here . Here a re a lfo cyprefs-trees of th e

h eigh t and thicknefs of a w ell-grow n oak. The w a ter

w orks at Tivol i, upon the w hole, fu rpafs thofe a t Fra fc a tibu t the latter a ffords a m ore a recable profpeét for T ivol il ies on the brow of a cha in of

‘

ills'

, by-w hich a grea t pa rt

of its profpeét is in terru pted on, dne

‘

fide .

In the m a rket-pla ce a t T ivol i, fi a nd tw o large Egypt ianidol s of orienta l grana te, fuppofed

'

to be im ages of Hi s ,which the T iburtine

’s brought; a s a m on ument of their de

c ihve

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m argre 3 Pa rk, que de Paris 5 M ntm artrc ; There i sm ore to be feen ofMontm artre at Paiis ,

’

th an‘

of Paris at

Montm artre .

‘ l

Four Ital ian m iles from Tivoli lies the Lago de B i,or Solfa tara , in bvh ith a re fix teen floating ‘

iflands fi h e

lar of thefe iflands‘

is not abotre fifty ior Ii feet in cir

cn rice fo that it is not difi cult to em from th e{bore w ith a m ic. The Water of this e, and the l ittle

fiream of Salforat‘

a m entidned above, rs im pregnated withchalk and fil l'phdi

‘ (0 that‘

theag

rafs and other vegetables

grow ing on‘

its banks are fpeckl w ith Wh ite-

incm itat'

ions ,ex aétly tefem b

'

l ing, both ih ih ape and‘colou r, the com fits

m ade of‘coriande

r, annifeeds, Bic. Hence they are ca l led

Confetti

M.

S

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R O M E .

A hd to th is day , after a ll the inju ries'

of tim e, i t is not to

h e beh eld w ithout afion ifhm ent . T he w hole edifice is'

of

T ra vertina (tone, w ith fou r ga lleries over one fa h other,a dorned w ith pillars of th e:Doric, Ion i

’

c , Corinth ian ,"a ndC om pofite order . According to E u tropiu s and Cafliodoru s,fi ve thou fand, or

‘

ifDlo Cafl i u s m ay be credited,’n ine t hou

{a nd w ild beafis of al l kinds w ere ki ll ed w ith infl

it‘

s area at

th e dedica tion of‘

it. In the tim e of Pa u l III .oo

'

if‘

abou t the

y ea r 1 534, it w as {till in a good cbndition, cdnfifting of

e igh ty arches , four of w hich w ere larger than th e o thers,a n d w ere placed oppofite to each other a t righ t

-angl es , bein g the fou r grand en trances . It w as:fix teen h undred and

t w e lve geom etrical'

feet in circum ference , and the ex ter na l

fi o u re of’

it c ircul a r, bu t the infide w a s eliptica l or 0

v Tw e lve thou fand J ew ifh captives w ere em ployed a s

l abou rers,and incredible fum s

'

ex pended in bu ildin‘

g'

t

a m ph itheatre . Th e dim enfions, 81 C. pf‘

th is fl u endou s e

d ifice m ay be feen in Vitru viu s and Lip'

fiu s , and ike'

w ife in

M afl‘

ei’s elabora te ftrea tife de Amphithm tn

‘

s ;

Ih'

ew s, tha t am ph itheatres bu ilt with {lone w ere far from

bei ng fo n um erous a s is general ly im agined, and tha t

‘

Rorn‘

e,

V erona , and Ca ua ex cepted, _th ere

'

w as not‘

probably a cityin

‘

a ll Ita ly ca n (I hoafi'

of h aving”

one . 1~

'

Hifto’rians h

'

avé'

often confounded the w ords ampbitbea trum , tbea trz'

tirz, czrcur,

fi a dz’

um , a rena , pu tting the one for th e other indeed, th a t

w ooden am ph ithea tres w ere bu ilt.

in fevera l pa rts of the

Rom an em pire ,2

ap ea rs from Tacitus, ann a l . IV . w here

h e re la tes the fa ll 0 one of thefe w ooden firu é’tu res at Fi

den a , not far‘

from,

Rom e, in T ibe rius’s tim e Th is acci

d en t w a s occafioned by the w eaknefs‘of th e m ateria ls and

defeéts in the h e adds , tha t fifty thou fand people

w ere killed and h u rt or, a ccording to Su eton iu s a nd O ro

l i u s , abou t tw en ty thou fa nd perfons loft‘

their l ives'

l

‘

in th at

a m ph ithea tre .

T h e w ild beafts w ere not , according to the op in ion ofW here the

fom e, kept in the va ul ted places u nder the fu l l row of fea ts ,m “ if“

?a s th e am phithea tres w ere n eith er

'

fpaciou s enough , nor ofwe “ 69

i“ A m ong the ancient writers Lipliu s h as left tw o books i t:Amptbea tra Fabricai s m akes m ention of m ore: The am phitheatre at Ve

ron a is defcribed at l arge by T orelli .

A t Nifm eg in France there is a fu perb am h ithea tre bu ilt of‘ hugeblock s of m arble, wh ich is fiill a lm oit enti re. 3 he au thor m entions onea t

‘Afl és , butp ofiib’

lji he m eans this .i

a x0

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Stu a rt's

the Cam pus

tol . It conlills of three arches , and is of recian m arb e

amidlt a ll the dam ages it has fufiained, it {till affords [arisfaétion to a cu riou s fpeétator.

‘

There are yet to be feen on

the two fronts} th e follow ing

R 0 M E.

This noble firufi ure confilts but of one arch ; and on ita re r

eprefented the river Jordan, the golden candleftick

w ith even branches, two jubilee trum pets, the table of thethew -bread, and other u tenfils belonging to the tem le of

J erufalem ; w h ich ferve to throw (om e ligh t upon the ew ilh

antiqu ities, as the lea rned Reland has {hewn in h is trea tife

dc Spoliis Tempfi fl iersfl lym ita‘

ni in Area Ti tia n Rm can

jp'

z’

cu ir, rinted at Utrech t in 1 7 1 7 . Th is triunmh is cele

brared fo in the follow ing infcription found at"

Rom e, andit is not im probable, form erly

j } Ducibur. Rtg ibur. Gentibu s.a ut. frrgfl a . petitam .

l a t. intes tatam .

The triumphal arch of Severus and Marcu s Aurelius inaccinus fiands near the back rt

~of the ca i

Max im oTribunr'

c:Potgfl . XI . Imp . X1 . Cgfi III .

M l uri’lio‘

L.

"

F. Antonina, J ug . P ia . Felici . Tr i

Coj :Prong/i P .

ibus v im ibas

R 'Q M E.

The fubfianoeofwh ich is as follow s

To.

the m all“

ex cellent em perors Septim ius Severus andMa rcus Aurel ius, fathers of their country, the fenate and

people of Rom e, in acknow ledgm ent of the refiorationof the fafety of . the Rate, and the aggrandizem ent of theRom an em pire by their va lour and em inent virtues; havecrafted this m onum ent.

’

To thefe two princes and Julia Augufia , Septim ius’s w ife,

m other arch w as erected in’

the Forum Boari’

um , near St.George

’8 chu rch , by the hlver

-fm iths and m erchants inha

biting that Forum , which-

w as (0 ca lled, according to Ta

Cita s and Livy , from the brazen figu re of an ox w hich floodthere. On this arch Septim ius and Ju lia Auguita are repre

fented ofi‘

erin a facrifice ; and in another part of it Mar

cu s Aurelius tonina s peform ing the fam e cerem ony , w ith

fi licir Aug . P artbicz'

69’Negotia te: Boa r I

com m .

453

TGalrenus s trium phal arch 1 8 not em belh lhed w ith anym

mornam ents, and from the chu rch that {lands near it, is now

cal led L’Aroo di 8. Vito. The infcription

‘

on it is as

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R 0 M ' E .

I

six ty : 7 . Pos t. Ma x .

Colum n:ba rn“

.

This co um a , w ith its fpiral flair-cafe, firft erected in

f o the em peror Anton inus , bu t afterw ards ex

trem ely m utilated and dish u ted, w as refiored to its for

m er beau ty by pope Six tu s in the year ofChrilt 1 589,and the fourth of h is pontificate

II .Six tus V. Pout . Ma x .

This colum n being d eanfed from al l profanenefi and

pol lu tions, w as b Six tus V . confecrsted to the apoll le

St . Paul , and a t brafs fiatue of that fa int placed on the

top, A . D.~r589, and the fourth of his

Cola am am rebus

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462

Tom bs of

Seven : and

Cecilia .

R.

_o M .

,

E .

The Palatium Augntlorum has been m entioned in , the ,deon of the Farnefc ga rdens .Nerve

’s Forum ,on the fou'

th fideofthe (h urm al m opnt,flill rem ainatow er and three Corinthian pillars, wh ich

are'

inirch in'

ured’

b t im e ;i

i

Auguitus s Mauioleum'

, w h ich is in th e Strada de’Ponte:

fici, beh ind'St . Rocco

’s chnreh , isr a j citcu lar lofty bu ilding,

w ith thick walls the area w ithin it i s converted into a

{l ands a fi atue of and tlié l oiftfide

of. this building is in a good condition ; Bu t the infide‘ isnow

fo'

deéayed, that no‘

idea“

can be form ed’

6f its ancient magn ificence .

t

-The rem a ins of‘

the em peror Severu s’s

'

tom bl

are w ithoutSt:Johms gate, on

”

the road to Prefeaifi,’

and that ofCecilia,daughter of C?e ‘ 3

.

‘vvife, is to b

The words at length are,

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865

l‘

em s le fe

R O M E:

u s, that this project cam e to nothing, for w ant of a block of

ate fu itable to that em peror’s vanity

I cannot forbear takin notice here of a fonate or cou ncil

ofwom en efiablilhed b t efi'

em inate em peror, in order to

regu late th e cerem onia 8 am ong the Rom an ladies . Of th is

Lam pridius in Heliogabalu s’s l ife fays , Fm

'

t if in calle Quiz

r ina li Sena ta lum , id m lirrum Sanctum , in gas a nti

sfu era t

conv enta s ma trana lis Sad Sem iram ica fafi a fi mt m a trix

feria r fenate, i . e. a fenate of wom en in the pal ace o'

u

m ount Q ririnal, w here form er] the Rom an m a trons h eld

their m eetings . The ridiculous of this augufi af

fernbly ex tended to drefs , precedence , fa lutations , equ i

pages , 8m . They determ ined who w ere qual ified to keepa chariot, or a fum pter horfe ; who lhould ride on a n a fs ;w ho in car draw n by m u les , and who by ox en alfo w h atladies lhould be carried in a cha ir

’

, and. what first it {hou ld

be , whether of lea ther, bone, ivory , or hlver and lafl ly,who lhould be a lloc to wear gold or jewels on th eir

M inna} (hoes!

Th erm :

6 01W :

Of the Turris Mil itias, where the em perorTrajm’s gua rds

were fiationed, (om e rema ins a re to be (een in th e

“

of St. Catherine of Sienna on°

the Chunna l m ount. I h avea lreagy

taken notice ofMa cenas’s tower in deferibing the

chur of St. Anthony .

Som e ru ins of thewall and li able bu ilt by T arqu inius Su

perbus are tobe feen on m ount Efqu iline in theVil la Negronior Monta lta .

Som e rem ains of the w arm baths built by A ippina,Nero

’s m other, are {till to be (een on the Vim ia m ount,

near the church . of St . Vita lis ; and‘ behind the Pantheon,

or Rotonda are to be (een the ruins of thofe of Marcus

bath s ofthe enrperorCaraca lla w ere on theAventine m ount, and it

(w as am ong the ru ins of there baths that

(alum na : m um den

R 0 M'

E . 465 .

th e celebrated tore Fam e/E, or Fam efian bu ll was found. Se

vera l of the w al ls and apartm ents belonging to thefe baths

a re {till to be (een am ong v ine-y a rds and kitchen-ga rdens .

N ear S . Maria in the Cam po Carleo w ere the bath s of Pa u l u s

E m ilius , w here a fu ite of apar tm en ts round a g allery are

{till plainly to be difl ingu ilh ed .

The ru ins of Conil antine the Great’s baths a re to be (een The br in e!

in Confiable Colonna’s arden on m ount Qu irinal thofe of

T rajan’s baths nea r St. Erifea’s church on m ount Aventine,

t

a:cm "

a nd thofe ofVefpafian'

in the kitchen-ega rden belonging to the”

f

convent of S. Pietro in V incol i. Of thefe lafi there are {tillrem a in ing nine apartm ents w h ich fcom to have ferved for re

fervoirs , and to each of them there a re {even doors or~en

trances . Th ey a re genera lly ca lled I:fem /ble. T hefe cham Sette Sah

bers are not a ll of a length, but the la rgefi is not above

th irty-(even feet long : the height is abou t tw elve, and the

breadth eigh teen feet. On the other tide of the ga rden are

the ru ins of the pa lace called Cafa Flav ia , w here anci entlyCafa fl ar in

ofLaocoon and his fons , m ention ed by Pli

pa inting in frg/co on th e w alls a re (0 decayed

difcernible .

Dioclefian’s ba ths have been m entioned in m y account of

the church of S . Maria degl’Angeli .

T he ru ins ofPom pey’s thea tre, w h ich , according to Pliny , p om m

’r n

w as fpaciou s enough to con ta in fort thou fand fpeé’ra tors, th eatre .

a re now inclofed w ithin the Orfini p ace .

Of the tem ple erected to Antoninu s and h is em prefs Fau Antoninut’o

fi ina ten Corinth ian pillars w hich belonged to the portico a rgu m l’l“

y et {l anding before the chu rch of S . Lorenzo in Mi randa , onthe Forum , w ith th is infcription

D iv a [m inim e'

D . Fa ufi z’

na ex 3. c.

The tem ple ofBacchus is fuppofed to have flood near the The tem ple

church of S . Cofianza .°f “W ?“

O i the'

tem ple ofConcord eight orienta l grana te pillars of

the Ionic order a re h ill to be (can behind the capitol tow a rds

m ount Pa la tine . It w as bu ilt a s a m em oria l of the reconcile

m ent of th e people and the nobil ity at Rom e. On the a rch ia

(rave a re thefe

S . P . £2. R. incm dio confirmptum refl ittrit.

V OL. Ii .

465 R 0 M E .

This firewas rebu il t

The tem pleofHercu les has been al ready taken notice of

in the account of St . Stephen’s church .

The ta yb Nea r Severus’s trium pha l arch in the Cam pus Boa rius a re

1m . the remains of the temple of Janus Quadrifrons , wh ich W as

bu ilt of Grea t m arble, and refem bles a large quadrangu l ar

tower w ith four entrances .

Tem ple of Net far from the tem p le ofConcord in the Forum , a re to

the be (con three’

pilla rs, b fom e thought to be the rem a ins ofhw ‘

the tem ple of Jupi ter onans or the Thunderer, a nd by 0

thers th at of Ju lius s arl This im perfect word is a ll th at

is legible on the pedefial :

E S TI TVE R

The tem ple of Minerva fieed in N em’s Forum , w here

the front, em bell iihed w ith fine bafo-rd iw o’r,

ing.

‘

In one ba r-relief over the m iddle of the fafadc the

godde ls 110e i s reprefented.

The tem ple ofMinervaMedicea {l ands on an em inence in‘

a vine-yard beh ind St . Bibian a's church , and is in pretty good

condition .

The tem ple ofPeace {l ands in the Cam po Vaccino oppoPeace. li te to theVigna Pa rne ll/s. Th ree detach ed parts of it, w h ich

are roofed, bu t very ruinou s, a re {till rem a ining . The roof is

divided into a grea t nu m ber ofoétangu la r com partm ents, for

m erl fa id to h ave been plated w ith gold. On th e fii ccelsfid

c onclufion of the Jew ilh w ar, this t em ple w as rebu ilt byT itu s, and fplendidly adonned w ith the fpoils brought from

Jerufalem . Herodian and Am m ianus Marcellinus give an

afionilh ing account of its riches ; and w hen in Com m odus’s

tim e th is tem ple w as burnt dow n by ligh tning, the m elted

filver and gold is (a id to have flow ed ou t in a tha n: two

h undred feet broad and th ree hundred in length . Herodian

m akes no l'

cruple to ca ll th is tem ple pi ny in : m am N ! u

a n wow cm », T he la r oil and m olt beau tiful edifice in

the w hole city .

’ A m ari et for ca ttle being kept everyFriday on th is place, t h is fam ous tem ple is parcelled into

fevera l divifions, a nd let ou t by the A poiiolic cham ber to

grafters as an inclofu re for their bu llocks , Ste .

W ha t rem ains of the tem ples ofR om u lus and Rem us,

is to be feen nea r the ch u rches of St. Cofm o and Dam iano,and of St . Theodore .

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a o M E .

9 . Cefl iu s’s p ram id.

Circo’Anton ino, the em perorAntoninus

’sCircus.

1 1 . S. Sebafi ino a l le Ca tacom be .

1 2 . S. Gregorio M. nel Monte Celia .

1 3. S . Andrea 1 11 Monte Celio.

1 4. SS. G iovanni e Paolo.

1 5 . Villa Farnel'

e nel Pa latino.

1 6. S . Maria Liberatri'

ce.

1 S . Theodore .

1 . .S Anafi afia .

1 9 . S . G iorgio.

S. G iovann i Battifta decollato.

2 1 . Pa lazzo Savelli, now the Q r fin i palace.2 2 . S . Sabina .

23. S . Maria della Confolazione.2 4. S . Maria in Portico.

2 5 . S . Giovanni Colabita .

26. Pa lazzo Savelli .

S . Bartolom eo.

2 8. V il la Cafa l i in Monte Celio.

29 . Villa Mattei .

IV . Rione di 8. Angelo.

1 . S. Catarina de’Funari.

2 . Palazzo Ma ttex

M3 Fontana di Piazza Mattei, the foun tain tn Piazzaatter

4: Il Seraglio dell’Ebrei , z. a . the Ghetto, or the Jew.

qu a rter.

5 . Pal azza Cofiaguti .

V . Rione della Regola .

1 . 11 grand’ofpizio della SS. T rinita, the great hofpital

of the Trinity .

2 . S . Francefco a Ponte S ifto.

3. La Fontana di Ponte Silto, the fountain near Six tus,’8

bridge .

4. S . Girolam o della Carigi .

5 . Palazza Fatnefe .

6 . Palazza Pich ini.

7 . Palazzodi Spada .

facro Monte della Pieta, or the charitable ‘ corpo

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472 R o M E .

II nuovo Porto di Ripetta .

Pa lazzo Borgh efe .

Collegium Clem en tinum .

Villa Cefi.

Vil la del Papa G iulio III .V illa Giufi inian i .

Maufoleo d’Auguilo.

XI . Rione di 8 . Euftach io.

1 . Pa lazzo G iufi iniano.

2 . S . Lu igi de’Francefi.

Pa lazzo del Gran Duca di Tofcana, or great dukeof3Fu fcany

’s pa lace .

4. S . G iacom o de’Spagnuol i

5 . La Sapienza , or the Un

6 . 8 . Andrea della Va lle .

XII . Rione della Pign a .

S. Ignazio.

I l Collegio Rom ano.

S . Ma ria fopra Minerva .

La Ch iefa del Giesu.

Pal azza Altieri .

S . Marco.

Pa lazzo del Duca Strozzi.

XIII . Rione di Carnpidoglio.

I l Cam pidogl io, or the capitol .

8 . Maria d’A ra Ca l i .

5 . Maria in Portico, ‘

in Cam pitcll i.

S. Giofeppe de’Falegnam i.

S . Pietro in Ca rcere .

S. Luca in S. Martina .

S. Adriano in Cam po Vaccine .

S . Lorenzo in Miranda .

9 . S. Cofm o e Dam iano.

1 0. Villa Farnefe .

1 1 . S. Ma ria Liberatrice.

1 2 . l l Colifeo, or T itu s’s am pitbeatre.

1 3. La IMeta {udante, or the fwea ting ill. 14 . L

’Arco di Confl antinoM. orContga ntine theGm ’

c

trium phal arch.

GUI

-h

t»L3

04

a o M E .

1 5, L’Arco di T ito Vefpafiano, or Titus

’s trium phal

1 6. L’Arco di Sept. Severo in foro Rom ano, 0r .Severus

’s

trium phal-a rch in th e Forum boa riu m .

L’Arco di Sept. Severo in foro boario, another Of

the fam e em peror in the Forum .

1 8. I] Laco di Cu rtio, Cu rtius’s lake .

I 9 . Tem plum An ton in i in S . Lorenzo in Miranda .20. T em plum Pacis , or the tem ple of peace.

2 1 . Circu s Ma x im u s .

2 2 . Cloaca Max im a ,

23. S. Anaftafia.

XIV. Rione de’Monti .

1 . S. Maria nuova , S. Francefca Rom ana,‘

and the tem

ples ofthe fun and m oon .

2 . 8 . Ma ria in Dom enica .

3. Villa Mattei a lla Navicella .

4. 8. Stefano rotondo.

S. Giovanni Battifta e G iov . Evangelifia in Font'

e.

Bafilica di 8. GiovanniLateranenfe, or St. John Late

Palazzo La teranenfe, or the Lateran palace.SS. Sa lvatore a lle Scale Sante.

9 . S . Croce in Gerufalem m e.

1 0. S. Lorenzo fuori delle Mura .

1 1 . S . Bibiana .

1 2 . S. Clem ente.

1 3. 8 . Andrea in Portogal lo.

1 4. S . Maria de’Monti .

1 5 . S. Pietro in V incol i.

1 6. S. Silveftro e Martino all i Monti.

1

1S. S. Antonio Abbate.

1 9 . S. Ma ria Maggiore.

20. S . Pudenziana .

2 1 . S. Dom enico e Sifio.

2 2 . Villa Aldobrandina .

4 3. S. Catarina da Siena aMonte Magnanapoli.

24. S. Dom enico, aMonte Magnanapoli.

22. La Colonna Trajana , or T ra

’

an’s pillar.

PalazzoMazzarino i Monte avallo.

474 R 0 M E .

27. S. Andrea de’PP. Giefu iti .

28. S. Anna al le qua ttro fontane.

29 . S. Carlo alle qu attro fonta ne .

30. II Giardino Ghifio nella Via felice, theGhifi gardens.

31 . Villa Monta lta .

32 . S. Ma ria degl’An el i a lle Term e Diocleziane .

33. S. Agnefe fuori d i orta Pia .

34. S. Cofianza fuori di Porta Pia ,

35. Fontan a a lle Term e Diocleziane, the founta in near

Dioclefian’s bath s .

36. S . Bernardo al le Term e Diocleziane ,

3g. Palazzo Albani al le quattro fontane .

3 V illa delMarchefe Confiaguti, vicina i Porta Pia.

39 . Villa Patrizia .

40. Villa Strozzi,

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I ~N \D E Xd

Barba, St. church of, fupported

by bookfellers 1 70Barbarofl

'

a , Frederick, em peror,kneeling before the pope 2 84infcription on , and w hy cfi

‘

aced

284, 2 85— reilex ion on ibid .

Barberina , v illa of

Barberini pa lace, room s in

343— account of ibid . Ste .

Barclay , John , h is m onum ent

taken aw ay by h is w ife, and forw ha t 240

Barigello, il, capta in of the Sbirri,how ,

diftingu iih ed 1 074— c0n

tem ptible ibid.— anfw er to a

pope abou t retrieving it ibid.

Bartoli’s a ccou nt ofConflan tine

’s

dona tion to the ch u rch 26 1

Bafa ltes , w h a t 374 and N

Bail'

o rel ievo’s

.on gem s

,

‘

26, Ste .

Bali'

o relieve , curiou s one 269Bafl

'

o rel ievo, rem arkable ones 9 ,

368

Ball'

o rel ievo’s Ste .

Bafl'

u s, Ju lius , th e confu l , h is eofn 262 and N

Ba ths of Coh il antine .

465Baths , Car-aca lla

’s , cold ones 46A.

Baths , the w a rm ones of Agrip

pina a nd Agrippa‘

Bea trix . of Arragon , panegyr ic

1 02

Bed, 11 fine one, w here cardina l

Maza rine’s n iece lay 379

Bede, th e venerable, m onum en t

of 26 1

Belloti, Piétu re of 1 4.

Belvedere , or v il la Aldobrandin i,accou n t of

Benedetti, villa of 407— w a lls of

cover’d w ith proverbs ibid. Ste .

Benediét XIII . accoun t of h im

Cabi

1 1 2 -h is diifu live liberality ih.

h is aufterities 1 1 3Bernardo, S . chu rch of 1 1

Bern in i, Lorenzo, accoun t of h imand h is w orks 2 56 N

Bern ini, clam ou r aga infi 2 59how h e faved his head ibid.

Bern in i, fpecim en of h is (kill 2 69Beifarien , learned, fem e accou nt

1 69Bianchi, the learned, his civility

24, &Cv°

Bibiana , S . chu rch of 1 7 r— herb

fe ca lled, of w hat ufe 1 72Blon , Mr his invention to print

p ictures, account of 338— ac

count of h im ibid.

Be cca , della verita , w hat 2 1 8

Bolfena , fom e account of 9 1

Bones of a dead body 1 1 1 their na

tu ral fla te, by w h at m eans ef

feéted 239Borghefe, la vill a , bea utifu l,

Ste .

Berghefe, pal ace of 350, Ste .

fineit cham ber of 352

Brothels, w hether nece ii'

a ryI

in

grea t cities

Bru tus, u nfin ifhed bufi of,

I

byMichael Angelo, andw hy 1 4.

Buoncenvento, for w hat fam ous

88

Bu ria l-place, unpara lleled m agn ificence of 57

Bu tte , m ade b a bl ind m an

Bufie ofPau l ex qu ifite 352Bu fte , l a rge difputcs abou tBufis , a ntique 385Bu ll s ofN ew ton and Leibn itz at

Florence 1 r— e f O tho with a

w ig 1 3— e f fevera l others 1 4.

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I N D E . X.

Conrad III. em peror, h is end 362a nd N

fecret, a noble piece in

309cardinals, accoun t of

1 96, &c .

Confiantine, a rch of &c.

Confiantine the grea t, Colofl’

al

{tatt le of 368

Bonfiantine the great, h is baptifm

1 89— ba

'

ptilin of"

Turks and

Jew s ibid.

Convent, ex cellent difpenfary of

one 62

Cornachini , Augufi ino, beau tifu l

263, 81C.

Corpfes of ca rdina ls pa inted 1 08

Corfini villa, {om e account of

Gorfo, ii, its length and grand

a pea rance 1 31 , 1 32

Corli

J'

o, il, a t Rom e, 397 and NGorfo, fcene kit the carntval 377.Cpfenza , cardinal, lines , on 2 1 2

Coflta , Staniflaus, flam e,of 1 62

Cofino e Dam iano d i S . in caru po

Vaccino, church of 1 8 1 , &c .

Collaguti; villa , (om e accoun t of

4 1 9Collanza , 8 . church of 1 80

Cou ntries , hot, ru les of hea lth in'

them 1 30 dre .

Court prefen ts at Florence, w ha t 2Cow -dung, fuperfiitious cufiom

w ith, chrifi ianifed by the Jefu its2

Croce, S . in Gerufalem‘

m e, chuSrgh

of 1 8 1

Crom wcl , elufion oft h is law s for

obferving the fabbath

Crofii, not pecu l iar to Chrill ian

tom b-fion es 326— wha t am ong

-the Egyptians, &c. ibid.

Crucifix , m iraculous 246

crucifix , golden, very large . one

262

Crucifix , cu t by a m an born blind

43Cu lina, ex planation of and It;Cu pola . in St . Peter

’s c hu rch , to

,w hat .ow in 2 58 , &C.

Curia Roll iha, w here fitua ted

Cu riofities in Rom e in great num

bers 335, 86C.

Curta in, curious linceo One, 286,1 &C.

Curtius’s chafm , accoun t of 4.54

and

Cullom hou lbs 382— wha t goods

ibid.

DDante the poet, honour. pa.id h im

4Daphne, adm irable grou pe of he?

m etam orphofis‘

41 3Da ta ry, w hat 1 05Dea ths , proportions of them in

popu lous cities 1 01

Dem on iacks , adventures of 1 2 !

Diam ond, large one a t Flore nce23

— Pitt’s ibid. &c.

—of the

greatMogu l 24.

Diana, a tem ple of 1 67Digby, Sir Kenelm , ex perim ent

on nettles 1 78 NDirt, rubbing w ith 332Difi ichs on the em perors Leopold

and Charles VI . 1 7 1 , 1 72— 011

the m iddle of a pavem ent 205ou pope Adrian VI . by Sauna

zarius 2 1 5— 011 an obe l ilk 2 5 1

-ar the end of a m anu fcript ofi

Henry VIII . 29 1- ou Raph ael,

by cardinal Bem bo 31 2— tranf

lated into Ita l ian . ibid.—wfrorn

T ibul

i bi o r: x .

lus 32 2 from Horace , on

h ired m ou rners abou tthe {he wolf of Rom ulus and

Rem us 37 1 N— under the foot

of a Colofl'

u s 3 4.-tarh arlt on

ibid. N— from Virgil on Hercu les sAventinu s 375- ofLucanand Ov id 395 N

— on a prat hea

430— on Ita l ian

”gardens 431

oh the Louvre ibid . N — over a

door 434— from Martial on a

rivu let 437— from Sta tius

— from Horace 41— frbm Vir

gil concerning lbunea

from Horace on T ivoli 443from O vid on Curtiu s

’s chafm‘

454 N

D. M. in ca tacom bs, w hat 324,2

Dom e, St. Peter’s , account of £52

53

Dom enich ino, pictu re of St. j erom , by him , the finefi inROm e

204Dom en ico é Sifl t

’) ai m onte Ma

nanOpol i, S . chu rches of 1 4.

Dom in icans licenfe or proh ibi tbooks 2 29

Dom in icans cha rged w ith poifonin g in,

the facram ent 88 NDom in ick, chapel of St . 226, &c,Don at ell i, his m ail er-piece

‘

44Dragon e m onte 434, &c .

DrunkenGerm an’s‘care of his fool

9 2 1 93

E

Ea rth of Chril l’s fepu lch te 1 92

Ebony , how prepared in India 1

m w orks of ibi

Ebony , cabinet of 352

labora tory , chem ica l 30

Em bodied w ork, rem a rkable

Em pe rors , m otive of pu tting the

V OL. l l .

bones of three together by popes602

England, ibicides , when m olt ftc

qu ent in 1 29England, i ts race

-horns r32England, na tives of, portra itdraw ers 933

. Engl ilh a m baflbdors, their audi

ence difappointed by a dog’

1 20

Englilb, their fondne is for gam ing140

Englifh refpecl ed a t Rou te 1 52

Englifh gen tlem an , good advice to

h im 1 31Enterta inm ent, good and reafonable a t Rom e

Epigram s on m odern Rom e 1 04.

from .Martial on T itus am ph i~

theatre 446Epigram s on the Ita l ians andGer

m ans 2

Epitaph s on a horfe 35— ofGott i

the pa inter 4 1— 0n Ma rfilius

Ficin u s ibid.— on an Englifll

general 43— on an organifi ibid.

-on Aretino 5 1— 01

“

Jov iu s th eh iftorian 53

— of John Pico 59,60— i-of Anton Medit is 67on a drunken erm an

’

932— ré

m arkable — 1 2 5— 1 44

— fl

of Piu s II . and III . 1 66— of

Lorenzo Sperandi 1 72— Sac

ch i’s 1 9 1

— 011 Baldi 208— 01 1

Pla tina the h ill orian 2 23— 011

Franc is Neri 2 26— tmcom m on

one 2 52- G ifleni

’s for h im felf

2 53, &c .-on Cam il la

'

Bonvil i a

a La ccefe lady 235-Ta llo

’s

240, 241— 01 1 the perfon who

fou nd the fi atné ofLaocoon 297— oh Kneller by Pope 313ibort, on Aufia Va len tin i 31 7in the vill a Giufi iniah i

I i E ll e,

flu D I E x .

Effie, vina .

of 442

Ethenfe, vil laEucharifi , abu l

'

e of in evan l id lchu rches 331 &c .

Eu tropius, account of Trajan’s

urn 460N

Fabn , {laugh ter of the, ex am ined

9 5. 96

Fa ir fex , m fcripuons pom ted a

ga in ll 408Fa lconeri, pa lace of 434Fam ilies , papal , the overgrow n

fortunes they ra ile

Fa mefe, palace of 383Farnefe il toro, account of 383,

3 4Farnefe 1l p iccolo 387

— 1nhab1 ted

by lordR an Engl ifhm an 388Farne l

'

e ga rdens 4 1 9 , &c.— W h at

form erly 420

Farnefian Hercul es, account of

383Fa rneli an ga l lery 385, «&c .

Fem a le fingers not allow ed a t

Rom e

Fefioon piece, rem arkable 9Flabella , or fans , antiqu ity of

1 0

Flagellations on Maunday-Thu rf

day 1 20, 1 2 1

Flaw in looking-

glall'

es, how con

cealed 342Fleury , cardina l, fa l l

'

e opinion a

bou t the catacom bs 32 8F lora , fine ll a tu e of 38Florence, account of 1 , &c— firltD uke of 6— A6ts of its council

7-its noble cathedra l 3

Floren tine Pandeétae , (om e a c

cou nt of

Florentines, w eaknefs of their

1 05

Gaetan i, pa lace of 388

Ga lla s , coun t of, h is dea th 1 29°

G a l leria a rm on ica , a ccoun t of 403Ga llery offia tues, a celcbra ted one

1 0, &c.

l ight, and caufe of it 78— cha

radier of them ibid.

Florentines , fraternity of, w h ich

a ttend m alefactors 2 03— fa r

ca lm on ibid.

Fontana’s cu riou s contrivance for

ra iling an obel ifk 2 50, 2 5 1

hin t by one in the crowd about

2 5 1

Forn ica tion , w hence derived 1 42

Forum boa rium , w hy lo ca lled

453Forum Rom anum , account of 454.

Forum N ew er

Foundl ing hofpital a t Florence 48Foundl ing hofpita l a t Rom e 329Foun ta in and obel ifk, an a ccount

of 31 7Founta ins , care of, at Rom e 1 36

Fountains , grand 8 382

Fra nce , kin and qu een of, th e i r

m ock w ing of ch ildrens feet

1 2 2

Francefco, S. church of 1 85Francis , St. ora tory of ibid.

Fratern ity of pa inters , fculptors ,81 C. delirou s to be buried in the

rotunda 31 4Frenchm an, h is fay ing ofh is kin

432

Frefca tr, account of 432— the a h

cient T u fcu lum 433Frefco pieces, how m oved from

one place to another 2 1 8, 2 19Frefco, geograph ica l pieces in 379

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i

n

Ham erani . See Meda lilts .

angings, curious'

2 70

Hangings , from Raphael’s ca r

toons 287Heads on gem s , curious 2 5Head,

‘ terrible one in the vil la

Borghe fe, w ith rem arks on 41 2

Hele na , S . ch apel of 1 83m n0

w om an adm itted into ibid;

Helena, St . her coffin 1 95

fi el iogabu lu s’s fem ale fenat

Henry IV . of France, his” 7

Henry IV. of France , h is cere'

°inony on his converfion to the

Rom ifli religion 1 68 -ufe m ade

of th is by the pope ibid.

Henry V II . em peror, poifoned byth e facram en t 88

Henry V III . an the feyen fact a

m en ts , m anu fcript of- let

ters to Anne Boleyn 292

Henry VIII . h is‘

treatife de facra

m en tis, printed on pa rchni ent

292

Hercules worlh ipped a t T ivoli

439, 440— and for what reafon

439Here ticks , cu rfe agarnft, how t e

prefented 255Hom er, baflo-relievo of 380Ijlom er, bu fto of 387Horace , pafl

'

age from 441

Hora ce, pallage from , on T ivol i

443Horace, h is feat 442

Horfe, epitaph on 35Horfes , m u les , 61C. blefli ng off them a t Rom e 1 67

— 2 1:Sienna

ibid .

Hbfpita l , a la rge one 64— foundedby a {hocm aker 85

E X.

ita l of S. S. Apoltol i 1 69ita l , La teran 201

Hofpita l for orphans and old peo~

ple, ex cellent one 243Hofpita l for pilgrim s 334

Jam es, Sr. of the incu rables,chu rch of 1 86

Jerom , St. ex cu fes fem ale orna

m ents 1 75 N

Jefu its , their ch aracter ofMaglia

becchi 33-their church 85

Jefu its , accou nt of the beginningof th a t order. 1 62— grea t num

ber of them 1 63— three qu alh

fications chiefly rega rded i

their artifice ibid.

Jefu its chu rch , the finefi in Rouge

1 6

Jewifh coins , w h at 1 82 , 81C.

Jew s, rem arkable infcription con

cern ing 7Jew s , num ber of them , a nd how

difi ingu ifhcd a t Rom e 1 46

Ignatiu s Loyola , chapel of 1 87,81c .

—defcription of h

ibid.

Igna tiu s, St. ch urch of 2 05Im peria le, ca rdinal , ex pofi u lation

w ith h is nephew , and advice

concern iu th e pope 2 2 8, 2 29Indu lgence, Iarge 1 83Indu lgences , Rom an catholics no

tion different from tha t ofPro

teflants 244- for6oooyea rs

Indu lgences at Rom e fbr

years procured in h alfa da y 245Innocent XII . a rtifice of 1 05Innocen t XII . his h um ility 26

reflex ion on ibi-

d

Inr

gocent XI. how Vienna faved

Y 373Inqui

I N D E X.

‘nqu ifition, its cruelty 165— form idable cou rt of, where held

2 2 8— account of ibid .— lingu

lar infiance of lenity to cardin a l

Im peria l i’s nephew ibid.

—pa

lace of 2 2 9— tranfa&ions there

in uite fecret ibid.

Inqui rtor, infiance of the igno

rance of one 2 29Infeription on Anthony de Medi

cis 30—1—on a m u le 3I— on a

great ha ll 38— in a ch u rch 42

-det 65, 69, 70— on a pa

lace 7 1 , 76— on pope Joan 83

-on a pu lpit ibid .

Inferiptions , rem a rkable r36, &c.

— not inte l l igible 1 64, &c .—ou

Henry IV . of France, h is con

verfion 1 68— on an eagle 1 70-ia m em ory of St . Bibian a r7 1-fm m T ertu l lian 1 7s

— frorn

T erence ibid.— ou a collection

of gem s 1 76— over a door 1 77

—on Chrili’s crofs 1 8 1 in

Montfaucon, m ill ake of the

m eaning 1 84— in a convent

1 85— of Paul V . ibid. &c .

ia the Lateran church 1 90

on pope Alex ander III . 1 93ou the pedefi a l of a fiatne 1 94-on an obelilk 1 99, &c .

\

-an

c ient on it 200— on the tom b

of m arch ionefs Ricca rdi 203on a m arble table 205

— on a

tom b-{tone of the m other of the

l earned Ba rclay 206, 207 andN-on Pouflin

’s tom b 207

— near

the entrance into a va ult 209w ex plica tion of ibid.

— on‘

the

tom b of Sa lva tor Rol’

a 2 1 2 — on'

C a rlo Maratti 2 1 3— 011 Adrian

V I . 2 1 4— ihort one on cardina l

Barberini 2 1 7— on prince A

lex ander Sobielki ibid .— oh a

pedefia l 2 23— 011 obel ifks 2 24

-fla ttcrin one onClem entXI .2 2 7

— on pedefl al of a pyram id 2 0 —ou two iniprcfiions

of St . eter’s knees 2 31

Inferiptions on pope Gr ory XI .23r

— on three black ones 236on Ph il ip d

’Alencon bifli op

ofOfl ia , h is m onum ent 23on Ta li

’

o on a chu rch pavem ent

240, 241— on a

‘

p illar 244— 3

over a door 245— near a chu rch

246— on an im prefl ion of St .

Pe ter’s face 247—panegyrical

on Innocent X. 249— on an 0

belifk a t Rom e 2 I , 2 52 , &c .

‘

-cm Innocent V I . r7 r— on

a w a ll , a s an adm on ition 2 76on Ba rba rofi

'

a’s kneel ing before

the pope 2 84— 6n the m a ll

'

acrea t Pa ris 2 85, &c .

-under the

Hebrew l ibra ry in the Vatican2 88— under tha t of the apoi

’tles

ibid .— on Seth

’s fons ibid.

— nu

der Pythagoras 2 89— on Clau

diu s ibid.— againfi v iola tors of

the va tican library ibid.— on its

foundation 290, &c .— u nder

an antiqu e m a rble ibid .— on the

Urbino library 293—pu n

'

ningone 295

— on a pedefta l 2 98ex pl ica tion of ibid.

— ou Clem en t IX. 303

— Ita lian one 305u nder a hoffe 306

— under a

nother ibid.— ou a pedefl a l 307

ex pl ica tion of both ibid.

on a w a ll 308- over a door

31 0—over Raphael

’s tom b

—u nderAnn iba lCaraccio’sbufi

31 4~ 6n the a rch itrave of a

front 31 5— over a m a in en

trance 31 8- ih catacom bs 326 ,

I i 3

I N D E X .

32 1— conjec

’tu re abou t ch ildren

favoured 32 1— in a ca tacom b

324— ou a fione at Rom e 32 5

— on a bridge in the Via Sa la ria

400

Inferiptions, a lterations m ade in ,and w hy 285

Infeription on Six tus V . 2 89— on

Kneller3r3— oh Flam in ioVac

ca , by h im felf31 4— firange one

of the vir in 32 8iption , fine one of a gladia tor

4 1

f

t

in — (hon one on Jul ia Au

gu a — Pal m yrea n 42 2

on a tom b-ftpne 423— under a

hon 426

Infeription on a b undling-hofpita l

330— on a tabernacle m ade by

a baker 330— ou fuperb Iteps

333— under a ba llo-relievo 343

— nea r a Madonna 346— under

A lex ander VII I . 354— ne a r the

fieps to the capitol 357— ou

trophies of Ca iu s Marius 358—differen t op inions abou t ibid.

-on a m ile {tone ibid .— on a

globular u rn for T rajan°

359m iftake ibid. N — oh the pedef

ta] ofMarcus Au rel iu s h is fi a

tue 359; 360'

rem arks on

360— over the entrance of th e

apoftol ic cham ber 36 1— under

Cha rles of Anjou’s. fiatue 362

-for Gregory ,XIII

, 363— on

the pedefta l of h is fiatue 364under Paul

'

III . ibid.-r- near part

of a huge fi a tue of Apol lo 36;—u nder the hand of a Colofiixs

366— on Agrippina

’s m on u

m ent 366— under ' it a punning

one ibid.— o n rem arkable pieces

of a rchitetfl u re 367— on Alex

ander Severus’s cogin 368— 31 .

1

bou t the fize of a fl u rgeon 369- on qu een Chrifl ina

’s buflo

370— ou a pope

’s faving V i

enna 373— oh a fi atue ofHer

c u les 375— oh a Medufa

’s head

378 in an apartm en t 38 1

in a court of jufl ice ibid .— ou

Clem entXIth’s m un ificence 382

-on an obelifk 396—on a n a r

c'

i itrave 397— for Chrifl ina

’s

e ntry ibid.— ancient one on a

pedefial 399 on the m in t or

zeccha — aga inlt the fair (ex408

— cx citing to a virtuous con

duct 409— ou an urn ibid

ancient one on an u rn 4 1 3— 01;

a bridge 437

— on a portico 439— a t bt. Vincent

’s chu rch 440

-near the m arket-place a t T i

vol i ibid.- on T ivoli 445

m odern one 448— under a tri

u m pha l arch 450— on the ar

ch itrave 45 1— on T itus

’s a rch

ibid.— on Severus

’s arch 452— a

on Ga l ien us’s arch 31 7

— on a

ga l lery 453— on the pedefta l of

a pil lar 457, 458— on a copper

m eda l 459— on a p illar ibid .

on a pedefia l 460— ou a pyra

m id 462— on a tem ple 465

— ou

an a rch itrave ibid .

Infirum ents , m a them a tica l 1 8

Interpreta tion of a n infcription

209Joan , pope, Rory of 1 96, &c .

contefts abou t 1 97 and N-q

w ho m a inta in and who oppofe

it ibid .

John , St. the Baptif’t,chu rch of 202l ilands , floa ting 90, 9 1 ,

N &c

Kola, Bartolom eo dell’, chu rch ol'

1 1

Italiaxis,

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ola , Ignatiu s , bull of 1 62

ola , Ignatius , fubtilty of, w ith

a n account of h is order 1 63,1 64 and N

Lucia , in S. Martina , 8 . chu rch

of 208, dcc .

Lu cu ll u s’s gardens 436

Ludovici Gonzaga , St. chapel ofi205

Ludovilia , v illa 423

MMackelos on a m eda l ofChrifl ina

queen of Sweden ex plained .355&C.

Madonna della Vittoria, churchof 238

—1 valuable im age of the

Virgin ibid .

Mzcenas’s garden and tower 1 67,

m anner of w iping the dufi _of

ibid .

Magi, m ili akes of pa inters con

cerning them 6

Magliabecchi, his rem arkable flovenlinei

'

s 33Magnet, large 30, 31 — m ean u fe

m ade ofi t by Sw ifs guards 31

Magn ificence, u nparalleled of abu ria l chapel 57, 58

Mm ufcriets. curiou s s. 54. 565.

Manu fcripts in'

the vatican 29 1 &c .

Manufcript of the Hebrew bibleon parchm ent rolls 2 92

Manu fcript of the Septuagint andNew Tefiam cnt incapita ls, 81 C.

2 2

Manu fcript of the Hebrew bib e,very la r e 294Ma ratti, Earle , his faying on St .Luke 1 58

Ma ra tti , Carlo. accountof 2 1 3Clem ent Kl th

’s vifits to this

artifi , for what ibid .

Marco, pa lace of S . 393Marcus , Au relius, an adm irable

piece of fcu lpture 402

Marforio, w hence derived 3gand

Maria degl’Angeli al le term eDio

cleziane , church of 2 1 1 , Ste .

Maria in Cofm edin , St. church of

2 1 7-v-why call

’dCofm edin ih .

Maria dell’Anim a , S. church of

2 1 4Maria del

’Hp rto, 8 . chu rch 0

82 1MariaMaggiores church ofS. and

w hy (0 ca lled 2 1

Maria Egizziaca, St. church 0

to w hom belonging 2 1 7Maria Libera trice, ch urch of S .

2 1 9— v-ridicu lous fables of ibid .

Mgria fopra Minerva , ch urch of

‘2 2

Maria in Navecell a , church of SS.

and w hence ca lled 230Maria Nuova , church of S . 23 1Maria della SS. Concezione d

’

fratti Capuccini, church of 2 1 6Maria Regina Ca li, church of S .

235Marra in Portico, church of S .

ibid .

Maria della Scale, chu rch of S .

2 6Maria Ara Caeli, 8 . church of zl

i

s .

—W hy (0 called ibid .- fabu lou

nefs of th is account ibid .

Maria della Pieta in cam pofanfi o,church of S . 252

Maria deMonte, church of S. 230Maria Tranfpontina , chu rch of S.

23Maria in Tranfievere, chu rch of

SQ 236

Maria

I N'

D E -X.

2 75— difference betw een it and

Florentine w ork ibid.

Mottos , ofien tatious , on an en

trance 335Mu le , bafi

'

o-rel ievo of 31

M ule, A then ian fiory of ibid .

Mu fae um , Kirchcrianum , cu rioii

ties of 1 74, &c .

Mufiva tell‘

ela ta , w hat 2 73Mufivarii, w hat ibid .

Mufian i, belt piece of 266

N avona , {quare of 3N ero, fabu lous tradition of h is

a ibes 232 , 233N iches for fia tues in the pa ntheon

I O

N icolo di Tolentino, church ofS.

2

N ile , em blem of 395— borrowg3

from Lu can ibid. N— Lucan’s

and,Ovid

’s accoun t of ibid.

N iobe, groupe of 42 7 account

from Pl iny confidered ibid.

N ifm es , am ph ithea tre a t 448 NN obility , Floren tine, their con

defcenfion 75

Num ber of Rom e’s inhabitants

1 0 1

O

Gbelifk before theLateran church ;the largeft in Rom e 1 98

Obel ifks ,‘ Egyptian 2 24

Obel iflt , vafi , account of 250,Obeliik a ncient 31 7Obel iflc, fragm ents of

Obel iflc, very h igh one 396

Obel ifk, gran a te

Obelifk in the piazza del popolo

398, Ste .

Obelifk, enorm ou s, account of

462, arm — different Opinions abou t 464 and N

Odefch a lch i, palace of 353O nofrio, chu rch of S.

Organ m oved by w ater

O tho, buft of, w ith 3‘bobw ig r3

O ttobon i, ca rdina l 353— anony

m ous fem a le fa int of 354.

Ov id, h is diftich on Rom e 97Ovid

’s accoun t ofCurtius

’s ch afin

454. and N

O x ford, epigram on it

P

Painters, their h ifiorica l m iftake s

68

Pa inters , academ y of 2 1 0

Pa inting, by w hom revived 86

Pa intin s , rem arkable 1 56,of icha el Angelo 1 92

— by t .

kc and an angel ,20 1 — of

Micha el and the d n by Gu i

do Rheni 2 1 6— by om inechi

no ibid.— ofLazaru s by Mu ti

an i 2 20~ ofMary w ith Jefu s ,by St. Luke 2 2 1

—~of the w h ite

m oun ta in battle nea r Pragu e2 38

- on G uido’s m onum ent

- celebra ted one by Ra

phael 247— on an arch itra ve 2 55

— on Ch riftina queen of.Sw e

den 263-ou Ma tilda 2 64.

-fhort one on Innocent Xl l .2 65

-7- three celebra ted ones , 2 66

Si c — adm irable by Raphae l 2 78-fine ones 2 79

— of Ra pha el

w heré his {kil l fh ines ibid. Ste .

-

;upon a labafier 2 82 — ia G re

gory XIIIth’s great hall 2 82

‘l afi judgm ent by Angelo 2 87p f the firfi inventors of letters2 88, &c.

-frefco of. Six tu s V .

his actions 2 89, Are ,Pa in t

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ofhis ch urch , account of 2 76

Peter, St. im preflion of h is face

on {tone 246, 247Peter, St. form ofh is church 257

geom etrica l com putation.

oflbld.

Peter,‘

cupola of St. a t Rom e,

grand‘

2 53, &c .

Peter S . and Paul 8. their iron

ch a ins 2 70

Peter, fi atue of St. m uch reforted

to 266— accou nt of ibid.

Peter, St. h is church com pared

w ith Solom on’s tem ple and St.

Pau l’s a t London 258

Peter, ch u rch of St. the num berof pillars in 2 2— ofa ltars ibid.

Peter, dom e of t. by whom bu ilt

2 58

Peter’s in the va tican , church of

St . accou n t of 248— ex pence on

. . and effects of ibid. and N

Peterborough , earl of, firange faying of h is 1 55

Petti , palazzodc, account of 30

Petrarch , h is beau tifu l lines on

Rom e 1 03Petrefaétious in Florence 79 , 80

Petrefaétions i n theCam pan ia

Phial w ith a redilh l iquor, w ha t

325Pi

qzza di Spagna , fuperb fieps ar

3 332Picchin i pal acePico John , fom e account of 62 NPie Zefes , wh at 20

Pietre Pretiofe com m ell'

e, w a t

275Pietro m Montorio, church of S .

247Pi etro l-n Ca rcere, church of S .

.

w hat ancien tlyPietro, S. in Vincoli 304.

Pi ons fu rfl ition abou t 2 2

I

8° 1 PC

ariqPila te

’s houfe 2 1 7

Pil lars , fine 1 70Pilla rs, rem arkable 235Pillars , fragm ents of large granate

ones 46 1Pil lars, great num bers

“

in a ch urch

245Pillar, m a rble, defcribed 1 36Pil lar of w hite and brown jafper

05Pilla r, thought to be the colu riimabellica , and w ha t tha t w as 380

Pilla r, fw ea ting one 450

PinceoMon te , account of 42 5Pintu ricchio, pa inter, h is death 85Pitt

’s diam ond, account of 23

w h cal led le re cu t 24Pius feverity o?Plants , regeneration of, rem arks

'

ou as fabu lou s 1 78, &c .

Platina’s epitaph 2 23

Poifon ing, ex ecrable infiances of

88 NPolanu s , h is h iftory of the council

ofTren t 1 1 0 N

Politia nu s Angelus , account of 60Pom pey

’s effigy , of what m ade

2 73Pom pey

’s theatre 465

Pope, intrigu es a t h is ele&ion 1 08Pope

’s m il itary forces 1 07

Pope, tribu tes pa id to h im 1 04Pope , ex am ination of h is (ex fabulou s 1 96

— Pannoniu s’s lines on

ibid .

Pope’s m anner of foften ing a de

n ia l w ith the w ord lectum 1 06Pope , his bread the belt in Rom e

2 7Pope, cerem ony at an audience

7of

2 83, &c .

Pope’s

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I N 15 E x .

‘Stephané, S. Rotunda , chu rfl l of

33QBtppham , a lle carozze, church of

31

Stone thrown by the devil gt 7Storta Veii

Stfl

concerning a Bacchu s of

t hee] Angelo 1 9.-" of LordG a m e 29

-blunt anfwer toQ ,

Anne 30, 46 tragical 56of a pl

’Ofi itUte 78

Stories 1 1 2, 1 1 5, 1 20,

1 5 1 , &c .-of 6 Joan , the

W hole of 1 96, c.-of a huoe

dragon 2 1 9 of a cardin’s

nephew , and the uncle’s adviceconcerning the pope 228

-of a

S pania rd enam ou red of a fiatu e268 - of Prax iteles ibid . NofRaphael 2 78 u nfdrtu nate,of a m other and daughter 335,

&c

Strand, new church in, from what

im itated 2 1 5S trozzi, villa di 431Sturgeon , regu lation abou t 369infcription concerning ibid.

Suetonius , account of Cu tfius’s

chafm 453N

Su lphur, confiderable revenue from

1 1 5Su fannah , St . church of 321Sw ifs guards at Rom e, civility of,and why 1 07-« anth er of one

at Verfall les to an Aufirian no

Blem an ibid.

Sylvia , St . c hapel of 204.

T

Taberna nreritoria of the Rom ans2 36

T abernacle ofprecious {tones 1 9 1

Table, ex traordinary 1 5

”Table, fine m a rble eneT able Of Chrifi

’s la ll fupper

T ape l'

try , m a nufacture of 243T apefl ry , cu rious 352 , Ste .

T arpeian rock 376T arqu iniu s Superbus , h is {tabl e

464T afii , Andrea , brought m ofa ickin tovogue 274.

T afl'

o, pane tie onTaverna , v

'

la 434 -of the B0;

ghefe fam ily ibid.

Tem ple of the Moon and Venus6

Tem ple OfMinervaT em ple of the Sun 467T em ple of upiter 466T em ple of eace ibid.

T em ple of Saturn 467T em ples , hea then , debates amengChrifiians abou t 31 6 N , &c .

Te mple ofJanusTem ple 01

"Concord 5T erence , m anufcript of 29 1T ertu llian , .pafi

‘

age in h imTm ull ian im ceighs

'

aga inft fem a leornam ents 1 75 N

Theatre, la rge, a t Rom e 1 39Theodore, St. church bf 1

Therm ae A ripplnatThor, ha rfm e‘f of, 2w h a t 32 5

T iber, inundations of, to Wh a tow ing 456

T ibu r, anti trity of

Titus’s am itheatre, account of

446, Ste . dim enfitm s ”

and‘

ex

pence on &c .-~l

arch

T ivol i; account ofm

'

eannefs of

Tivoli , obfe’

fvations

I ' N D E X

Verfes , m onkilh 1 90

Verfes of Janu s Pannonius on,

Pa u l II . 1 96

Verfes of Marcell i on Innocent

VIII . 1 96

Verfe on the architrave of an a ltar

202

.Verfe under the foot ofa Coloflus,and rem ark on 374. and N

,Vefi ry or w ardrobe 2 84.View , gran

‘

d 420

Vil las near Rom e, their benefit

406, &C.

V in tage , 3 tim e of licentioufnefs ,and prin ts of it in the hofpita l

books 1 39Virgil, m an u fcript of 2 9 1

V irgil , a verfe of, appl ied 32 7V irgil, pafi

’age from , concern ing

A lbunea

Virgins , the e leven thoufand, a

m ifl ake 1 2 1 NV i tel le m ongane, ex cellen t 1 47Viterbo, body of St. Rofa there

500

Urban VIII . th e vaft inheritance

he left 1 05

W ater im pregnated w ith fiony

F I s .

particles 309W ater, v irtues of 445W ater organ 4.38W a ter-works , fu rprifing 309W ater-W orks , fine 433, Sec .W a ter-works 435W a ter-w orks

W a x ww ork, curiou s 1 7, 81C. 438W eights , ancient Rom an 2 1 8W harton, lord, h is w ager 1 0 1 N

W ild-beafts , how h unted 34w here kept 447,

W inding fl a ir-ca fe to St. Pe ter’s

2 7 5W indow , rem arkable 1 90W indow s , paper

W indow s , great num ber in a pa

lace 335W ine ofVerdea 38 de Mon te

fiafcone 9 2W om en , three a ccounts of 2 6 NW om en unm arried under refi ra in t

I

W om en, reafon for not adm ittiiigthem into fom e va u l ts 2 02 , 26 1

W oods fou th ofRom e , w hy keptup 96

W ords engraved on 320,&C0