LKfUflLE MAP SUPPLFMENT: PEOPLES OP THE MIDDLE EAST ipaqc 1.i

OFFIf |

'JULY 1372

THE SWORD AND THE SERMONAN AMERICAN MOSLEM EXPLORES THE ARAB PAST

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STALKING WILD FOODS ON A DESERT ISLE (oil. GIBBOUS, AaVi r h!S&' 47

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Nroy (hey want in maid c^diyimjY everythingilu-y’vr #KiUi mui r. Xunr^Lulm, Froc.

And thu: of ^ is pcvijile will find uut that

Duu-ii i rii 3i‘ r riii't is fjnr .tu.u ns rhe\ rfiau^ht.

Or ii:- expein^rvc they thought.

$t' xht-yf I hin ij Tickfl ii 3I I'y Australia*

Vtim t 'll hr u;p to m\ .11 in pit m tiniiifys;

I rHiri-t.1

; ttTbo rail me tedih hc.ir And jsiint sin .

1 -p.m

Artd&ay ihiftfcH Ii kc1

"Jjii't hr luted"

I am not dice, T :mn a boata.

AUSTRALIA TOURSDespite thill JisetLintleii koiilli'i ?niJc nnnariis £endmtr your hipchureft- Mml ro: Q-imuis, ^35 CalllWaia Sr.

San Fra i ic i CA 94104

Kaiv\t'

Srnfiei

i

.

i r.

v

Spti* 7lk-^!

i ..."

Tra^: ! A&mi

Ajr'.iu.i 1

1

• . 'L.l lit . : I .i .i=rZimr

After 130,000 miles,

Mary's Toyota still delivers.

The witweism Lewis

Count?} Washington can re

rough BcautifuLBiit rough

Ask Marv Mahoney.for years Marv delivered

The Daily Chronicle,

kam tsr shine. Simu 01 fog.

Mary and hut lyTf'T'oVcita

(, ormm traveled ii route th.it

covered hundreds of miles,

iiisd h undreds of stops, every

day Six daysaweek.Jilt roads, gravel roads

and blacktop.. up steep grades

and down ditchcC according

to Mary.

It gets cold mid it fie is dee p,

"['lieu Intel lie foreWe had

six leet of srnw up til

Piickwi. Kkl ,ind I ffij

J

l teal)

but one or two Jays?

"Ami that Wits Ireauise

of the hlrjrji d' not Ivcjusc

of the Tovota’Si 1

1

j t Mtun : |. i iij has

iiiiin.ified to survive more

than !dt) 000 mj les in spite ot

coldsnow, dirt roads

grave l’math steep grades

and ditches.

Even i lion fih Manno longer JelivcrsThc Daily

Cl it i hi c l I e i min tmie ti i

I idle -die Mill tiACS till. Tn-Vuta

Corona on her new ioh.

Delivering the null

TOYOTA^<r bow mu iib £ai mill rcones cxn biry

Fur yi-mt ncdUEfli Tnynia dt-ak-i, lmM Hflfi t4kki iutl-ficc ftp i n n a 1 am m

>

if >

Blue-eyed

MoslemFrom

Minnesota

Tom \m kc rombie'S have

him from 1 1

1

l- South IVirf to the slope*

III Mmint E-VWSSti Bui I hi? Veteran t PL'uiil Lipllit

v. riler-plitHop j(>hcl fdcU -il honiL in Mil

world of Ik is 4 Muslem hFmscIf, ami

In* *\m puihetic approach to Moslem w&Jii .md

Ink jini%ic3f ^ u I' LmiiyjiLpjCi win him Acerptnnee h\

1 en r vtweS I er a 1 1J „ 21 y U we He r [dike Vhi n e 0 v e i

eoffee and howk of earner* milk. lie dk*, iismts

Ihr pnobkms SaiMil truck

Ecs% trnpr* Quartet udits .1 beLm,ii£ somewhere

in mitl-SidiLiM Mum. Lind, with iwvie cmrutm

it ml micmpliLuiL faults down on I he emul s-md

ol v ti-rc^i \S Lj=f>L|iiM rpnuev h lr'

I omk must rceem presented a

formidable challenge: Ertplntt (he vjiii Arab

empire "11 ,100 ycth! 1 ago seek oi|l it* p;i*t add

fell of it* presort. His report. be^intnL im page

1 ,l

1pie] 1 v new door* erf n nil CF'iian Mini: oil nrte ol’

MhEhuVKi urn'll c.'Leittsi|i dnixmcis-

Vour frienuk can slime nuch hi^h advcnlirte

Nmum ate them lor membership below

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY MEMBERSHIPt^7 <f] CALiNDAR YEAH 1G7? MEMBEJtiMlP D-UES INCtUBE* / _ SUSSCftIPTlON TO THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC.*

Hn?iM^I Mr* Lti Lhi Lull pi I SlHir ilio-iijdMyt tif Hinlrl imiT'.Hl L 5. tetuli Ur tijlilviknl T> MflPEitmiiLli1

I IH- LkUJlIiiml C^kriLUr Ifiil

1 1 .u

!

1 1

1

1 II(,

Ini rsi.Lijin^ i-iJL|f-E_ri rr^i iLlJfuuel. piU Umr fMttit $or Cmwlfc LulTi

dlar? i*r US. TliipiJv Fur ..J I ulliri 4iiunlri±fi_ Sfl |jj lr

.V LrtihJl iHlAl) Ml M-in

iLnri i-.iLHj tbcwY -pnkr s ,,.V i if .,lm *. i. ilf-4|iiJtml N:r muiuiifLiw iLihMlIUtfcill.

IfUM-dNTH KiMlLERliHLP; V .h .

-’ll 1

- sin!N\l Iep^jlL LimilUUFinc: III itfllrt till ™ lull WTi lai-l Linl nr ill* ].mujlTJ

nf“j L- i.-r1

. ELUL1. PijLJ.H FP^iH I b*.*. n 'il l 1.1 H-fB -Lilli m i LVV l ! i FTMII .1 _l IP* Ffl|

1* MHHirlla f^SBt 1t|K J. llir'jucl! I.JULs. ihlii." 1 M T.» L.'iiim i^inrjL?. i. =uMl

Eni'EnlM.'lTihil^ U h lie ft JLt*w nblf ijm.l.lII uh j. £.U]i., M<

,

Jilr-f eur tussll J *ie I’

ftWlrtA J|iif huif -1 ftlifl re-Bu: Apt L b aJ3iJ lb uhlt[«i!lll£ itrt-i

ll I' v fUElU ITT Lu J'VLllrill. Iitl CsUlidJlL YU 11

4

or L. *. tuiiih,

icif nil r1 hr r t LlUfllr^ S 1 -H I17 1 ^ b*u\l eL-^1 v* U"J fHJJl v u jI nu -riry vtUit

r^Ei it r !L ilfti rr flir rfitfrJitf*1 /*r

f iff (itrfrj'.M'r*; li iri iif anuri! r in- fUT^iihi U 1 i«-i(rs ol 1. r nT ihJ-Jh?. I l?r

t« fiv V. S hImI II l iiUll] inn IITAI i:

ILii-iUt rt- TtJfcJWfcJk'ur Ii -r C ojurla,

I ft r„uiuiLiaifc nr I > I'Lim- K. h * ilHI IMI'r rainntriw, * I ^ I.. t«.k ilrj.11 1W

iHFFtitiiriiirwl nu 11

1

‘ urd^ri

1 iiiii tv

l

Th£ ^meLwrv

N .LlHri1.1l ( J t ocmphk -S u k*

y

WwWfliri.Dfl, P Ci IWU&

1 wish to join 1 I 1 N^.r^Ai 0 !Hir.vniT'

Si'!* 11." v flint Phll'JH' llLWiss

1 FILL in at U-!i )

!GJfT MtlAJiEflSHIPi 1 • .utuunaJe irtl in lu*»

S lor dueii irf UfcC |hrtMPti iLunietl

iii |i«H $vm\ tNlt 1 arii dfnech

l NOmiNATI h't «i ift PKnSFrr hi41

(hi

fwr-i.ni nnjfictt Jit 1e!i i \.

rw m-piufutt *htt

fur arirNtiirJul 1 inn luil- 1

tri£<»QN l

a

HEW MT

1 - il* n jvi. 111 4 ‘h 1 b |Jj <il|h .if . rini, r in# , whi. m 1 k 1

1 * 1 1 ' L

pLf* #• i|‘ < U i U 111,ara-n

sTntrr 11 1 IT

r. in An,If!3 CfiW C*it Ji" =aor MUf- 4

-pollinationhelpsgrow ideas.

Am mrtV . thtiiujiiiEb

il pn-fJwriH, und ; s

! -f ot thorn wr-uEriift

oitfet (I not Mr uurI'lEhfJ |JT L IJrL' 1

[ tiuntr

jjkc ^iJi .iLEl uMTVlsJt: tWjfiC U'F

BttMivaUvCpiFhir! - wv i:\ii r

Kave- you ever^undt'ftd

t In fit iiic-'Jj

CL'KIfc frufll?

Lei's cueisLeIit

"Stutdi-Briic''

scminn^ jj.Lij-

anrj "So iiLh"

hnir pel Tnjv

Now, it wouldm:bki ii HrrLit sum; H

w o nlWray ihEit

1 wii of iuar rnvfniore

thdpiwfiSvta in

ivi'jiy lowers LirttiiL onejii.^k.il ].\.\ i Isl-ji th ywalked ipllI. MiLh i hi- fmisk-ti

product 1 Lle 3 fftat ifin'i i J>« wayit happened.

TiVFpni h.-ippmud. was i Fun

ti irS l « 1 Cl i xplri-ins T1 'U -woven,

fiber tehmncJt^ One procJiict

thrat ftSHiJt-trlJ Wfti '"SaihtfL:rl,,

hfftiid. ikciuttitivt rih 1 1 1 3 is AndI Fk'il 3 luH ritLsI *rhu Madworked fin Ihul ptvpjtiot

i I lint this coiiJd offer

a mtile fn a

naturally breaUlnfelc

sllUKll Ljpc Alin[Emm r3C|Hir]Tii=/iLLk

I hi-, idfii nrmilt€>rt ir.

"Mntet 'pnr^h' brand

hcmthfllil* trurgic^al

liipc: A link rn- hi:

i cn rri.-tiLi n iri :l-i 1

to 'ScnJtsrh" bmrcd

hair wA mpr

Tlu^ may not -j rm QJjte

LI V^Ernf way i'l

fkVcMpljPfg pnirfmlHHut tfiai

r

5 what makescrd^poUinAikn w special :.

till: (LllI tiiat it taiUJClE

hi 1 progjiimnifiJ

to vvmifli.rm^ win! wintftl h^pptnjf a tllUgll iKLtfLVF MflTU

^rfnnhih^ iru:i .Tfn hi >

nim-^ovi n nni|rn;il Alter manyi^peri™*tita h Lind many foilme*

tesufci produced "Scj-l^H-BTitir"

Iwand si i»Ji-irig pflfk

UiLtr, ^mi-j-usic cEwf at 3Mwho i1

. u% fumiliiiF with thik

or in-^'i liv’in fit irr Ltchni ikifly in.'si

war bdftj? r*pSuretl ^ut ihs 1 idea

] l h not ^icesplu feiympt,

Key. Iti\ fio-:-.-

pj^nmitej" Ylm don't get cross ^

p^linnUjcm when evrrjtuftc ii

hemmed in hv orcani ?ai Ian

chaEtij .ii id [Lttk IjoxiA, Because a

tm lilei Ik- jiM u ni

c

iui^Jl-

1 Fi lj C ];i ts aTidura:! FKmlL'uniVs

T33U1L. Bill it Cm illwi lx a liJKV.

\’i mi fjLj

t a fi'-ct Lntsiri^mi^u

gf informanon wIiitl prsiplf knowI hoy are retpiTftjd ni indfvidtaJs*

and :iriF>^dy trying to ki-cp

T hem tnimaritJiOfl ml of iifltJthLr

At 3M.% wli1.I mtlwr grow new

ideas titan teller* -maydm

People still count here.

jlIiiI» *•' L* nui - P±ut %3

The phone company wantsmore installers like Alana MacFarlane,

A I dial a MacFacljme Is a 20-y-t>ar-

old from San. kafaal, California. She'sone o f o ur h rs t womo n letephon*in stall e rs* She won't be the last.

We also have several hundredmale tele phono operators. And a

nolm} that there art1 no dhmitle or

dill-temale jobs .it Ihe phone company.We ward I the men anil wortltrt of

the to tap heme company t(a rlo whatthey want to do. and do best.

For e sample, Ain mi likes wotMrttioutdoors. "I dortl go (or office routine?she said. "Gut as an tnst.iller, t gelplenty of variety and n cite nee tomove iriHindr

Some people tike to wui-n withtheir hands. or. like Aiarui* pet a kieh

out *r working 20 feet up in The -nrv

0 1 h# r s 1 ike to dr ive tru ck% P Somemt't e helping la develop into f-ood

itidnagen.Tuday. when openings eiht

local Bdl Companies it re offer insupuhcanls and present employeessome fobs they may never hovethe until about before*w? wunt io1

1dp ill I *td va nte to tli e b^t of ih e if

abiiiUftij

AT&T and your la®- al Eel I

C oru imu y a r e en tin i onportunityemployer*.

THE NATIONAL PARKS 1372 T972

by touring our wonderlands with this

best-selling Geographic book.

MORE THAN 600,000COPIES SOLDI

A supetti *'(yfam£} th#f ts

not Wfrjffy 10 toe sjjrpassitt

m our farm ft avflf/1

HWAC? M AiSWSHtK-itrniif DUtSfctttJiflCuTijji Pii Tk Ser/ica

JAn ejfcsiVe-nf tocJOM

for GVQFybody in MI

fihv temi7y1

m-‘a> tOh-: T-wr5 «S;Cj

va r/cwa /

NATiCiWi. GEOOTAPtilC SQOfrTYDctf

'30- W^iin^in^. Cl € 30036

>15 plfea&e serai mu JWfFfJWS PmI : ini^ Far>-1 Sill me j/LtslKlila, plua puoVQtf *J*d having. II notcanTcr-Fle * ftfdWed I n-.tfif >u L(rr ff.r. frotf. WilhCsjE Ui^'iTh-i 1

VKW>h !1 E*!iE PP-IkT

APCin^

r cm. st>T£. 2F

J65 tull<Olor tflustrations

552 pages Actual sine 7W K I0WSuperb gold-stamped binding

Large reference map

bumper tests:cantBumpers are

a 5 mphbump with no damage to car.

Popular 1972 sedans andcompacts were crashed into

a barrier at 5 mph walkingspeed. In both front- and rear-

end crashes results werethe same: bumpers still don’t

protect cars from damage.Average damage? Over $335.That’s about $100 less than

tn Iasi year’s teste but- still

pretty expensive.To encourage even better

bumpers, bumpers that really

protect your car in low speed

co 1 Unions, A lIstate continuesto make this offer;

'

’We’ll cut collision

insurance rates 20 % for anycar ihe manufacturer certifies,

through independent tests,

can take a 5 mph crash into

a barrier, front and rear,

without damage."

Fmni rnd -:5 m^h,

Rear end-3 fnph> average '232

Allstate wants humpars

that protect. We think you do,

too. So let’s not stop at

'better' bumpers.Let’s go all the way to bumpers

that are really bumpers.

1 1. tz =.1 + 'hiipi TQ3H un 1 >11 ntudqTrl..-l:irmiac rnimirt nm.il 1-

Tnld mindtslHiJ L t LLf ]uuIde£x EiiiCiIuIv Till I L(|lkMAJr fiBliljf Leif '»makr dri\ ittj* stgjssoil nhiing im.nci.

Chevrolet. Buildinga betterway to see the U.&A.

.* f.v.iLitnCt

fl-

7 ,\ ’'V y"” y\- -V'7* •

*1

1

1 TW> - 1

You get more station wagon at your Chevy Dealer's Wagon Station.

When y m need fias, you go lo a fclatiun.V\ Jten vd_L need a you go to si Wagon

Station, Also known as ymtr Chevrolet l^ealcr’-i?.

Benin 51: llljifs wh* rr you'll rind ihn widestsek*c! ion fur our KttVn sporty I passengerVoga Kammlm-bs to big l~ twisscniEt'T Spflrrtvan-j

You’ It find third scats Mini frim- l i :• - pin I

ttnd third scats that fijfefe the renr. Tailgates 1 hat pup, down, strkway& and *v*r dfeitii-fjear.

Thrre’s so mtich+ v.u canr

l bc^tn Lu it into

rane I it lit- ad, wr ‘ v£ put it ink- a

bioc hurt: cullud '"f low to Pick and Flat* a Wn^on.For Town Knr Trus d. For TruIltith'

"

Send lor it. Study it Thenaim by my Wagon Station J

and iiuk about jt, “ Chevrolet

Please send fn?t wagon brochure to:W !-

I

NmnfL

Adrift -s

Ciiy_ m .L^-

Mu] to Chevy Wspn Staiific. tfei W«.EMJ Bin: VV, DL’tn.:t. Mn-hinar. -IE* C

Hl lhli uy *> iij ijf tv|J

; /i *.J it. M.'Ih iJ.ifJr.V |!F^r Jli'.lVir. I II iViJEff.

July1 97

2

’Hr HP -%»F* Ml | in i .1 il{, hil iCvPnttEH* OC Hm - -r ih * i II 1

1

,-i C E 1 M '5 w Ml **1 nrr»« a#i| 1 1 1 »H| «

]

r S THE LEXICON of our daily newspaper-- the term> Middle

East" and "'rrisid1 swtn linked in j. natural :iS^daiiori Israeli stmfii-

L points look crtiJ on u nn^ trf brisrile neighbor naliom (*n Cyprus

Greek and Turk try dc*pcr3ii4f5y lu find u weu tn survive toother Ftym

the rsn iiane.il hi- iif northern Iraq, Kurdish warrior* priw, lor pfraiiT

jmioiiomv Lu Lhe Persian TitiiL hunt tankt1^ (ill with i tic Iffrblnixl mf

European and ji±i i:a.nt- 1- economic. uhilr dtpih floats and busi-

neismen bargain to keep thr oil flowing The Miene* represent not nnly

national interest?- iiftrt divi-imt:- L*l 1 ohm iniermiEiiHuil . > marnin * sn-in -

"'»

' ‘.•

.~ It" ,•'? .••

i , , t'”*a ' .

invulviiijz run l<a,r power*- The uorld *- stake in lIr* Middle Kart i-ouMi-

imr less than peace {belt

B> fhetr m&urt, headlines lend lo ohacure Lhe human reafttfc* Vu’liiml

them Familiarly wiih the rtimit' barker 1 luculs and historical n^if- m*

Arab, Jew, I'erhJ^rii lurk iutd Kurd ivrlll zive us lJI a hetlerundcntamJ-

infi m Llit* \\ ith this i^ut National i teoEraphic tnrlurJr-i tUiiuher in

iL- unique 'i'iiLj> «. l" lu. 1 1 u r 1 1 J supplements H linihlc-sidrd map that .sur-

vey* the whole nirntf of Middle Eastern lands muf peoples

This imnteiJs-e reaum hnmnliind to PM million, mbjtil lie ’ bought oi

\\uf. ik- .Middle East, bill sample a- Middle— t hi- vjlhl arid

metLLiii£ ground of three CEinlifLrni.* It- mounds

entomb msin'4 hr-il citify Along ds precfctis

rivers the first urban men dfre-uvered

iisimnumv. Invented mathematic*,

and, ahivvr alh simplified writ urn

L'luniuu usual ion h\ inventing an

aJpbitbel Prom it.- tribes, prnpheb umsc

w hu ['reached of unv Hud, lht?> bequeathed

cm slit world Eli re if r>£ ils major religions

Tmlty much of the regitth hears the i ultural

stamp L il kibic tpiiukinjr peoples- and ths- ndi^ou-

siurnp of t-liim. In chi Jirtirir L hill follows staff writer

and phaihi^raplier Tlmm.i- J Abercrombie, win- hat iras^led tn

thkj ri mciiu-^ coenvr-i uf the Moslem world, ielb ut cIm- birth "t Islam and

uf the dmtling i-mpin- ks tunvert- created c^iurir- ago.

Tin ui eonifiiiiiviue -Valinn.d t itiup -upplemeni. which dr

pttts the entire Middle a cnltiind muLi. fiksalready been acclaim i >i

\w -ihi.Lir- who aided in it* prctnamtmn. Eneompu^in^ subjects a*

i ariEM'l 4-l> l.incuage.* and|

i-plrii^.' i ini l u -r .ntcl ptij-skaJ pebifnipij d ^ dl

brimrU-Ti iindefstimtHni4 uf LhU i-rgcipj part of our wDridta> men pr:ij for

the day when beacUints ^ix-ak 01 l oi t lerntii

«

ei

,

not of eri i>.

\

W T"T RAVVED in humid li.il^rani's rlntlL

iTLi 1 stepped through the Gate nl fV >

V W and tutu the murtYard of

I sluin'- tu'lLi-hl >.tjririr, the tirtiil

.Mus'tu- ol Ukc.lurt> *Load lb seven rainfercts; Sts iiurhlc

and cmniiT stnllurio glewtd in the white-

Ini

'it destrri Min Around me 1 be pkms l rum dJ

tilt Mosltm wmrtd puid hum. tee in 1 kul in ihc

birthphw^uf thd* f- u tli Arin icufr-' imoltm-. :-

-rmSlitiu1 tOafLins chanted ihi-ir cnlediiMn;

JaynuF pilrrixm them*dves Wll h

w:iier Imm tint sacred Well - if Zrtmiuim the

vm (dil, witb eycr on |hr Tif^t \\h, wie-dted

whnfisiE Hoiks .liiiL iniil them in ihv rmiet-

yaitl Ip dry. A trace df inmna1 wafted on the

frvi&cnt murmur m a iltnqsuud prnyto

In the renter uf the co-nslytirtt I he Wi-tfl;

tutit-fchupefi KiluLul, drajMsI hi blrnrlt si!k a

loomed fifty fei i Itbcive the wbrahipcTs A

I

(icnf> c ismiEuuir!^ it is f,oUl t Abmtium built the

hrst shnnt1 on thb spin From the erlt?e of the

cou rl ; . i rd ] I k iw 1 th ro 1

1

jsh two pruyvfs> I be

n

followed my imdaiwif, nf pilgrim £mdftt iiiio

the churning muhnmk*.Sewn time? iv i! circled Lhr 4irihe H repeai-

inf the ritual ikvottorts in Ambit: Hk Lurd t±iiH T

frnrn ^lj< h u rffcstiint ldju\ 1 huw come unto

lliec . grant me shelter under Thy throne/*

Cnushi tip in the whirl inn scene, lifted by ihe

poetry oh the pr;r er-, we orbited i pm I bruise

in accord with the atoms, III luumory with

Liu- placets

Thus, with ;l pit^rimap to iU founijim-

bead K E sci out to trace the once mighty, trod

still HWftW^itnrly vast* cmpim of Isluni

I-or mniLy years ;i traveler an Arab lundt, I

have now fulfilled n dream of lnm-fting tJuil

J-aijs (icniL* ti* .i rlfM'rt hn v h -i “Mtl* ll

A

r

llLj im 1 1 fiTiim i ts i tis- fervor l tw it ^jumdMiiihiiriiii^iJs first iii&verh. ,ShtuUifi|r

ihr name of Allah, Arab ?rmk^ within

EtXJ iT.ir- Miijped j rrLihn tiniK ?-tfrtLl3cd

freun Spit lit In ( vntraJ A±ijl Tlie nutb^r,

;i MosJtm - like ! 'lOfi- (irnhcd 1 He- fa

f

<orni:is cii Lhi.n blamki I'mpir^ in n

yrnrdrittp:. apiventun*

ii-iiei vuinl #1 ihi»4 Hi(r* »MH[T .!—*< * I*

PliPiKH- *lHTi*P ‘K HI tymw HUUkrH. IIT4H4 IR,

I - I* iIA l||HI I „Hm h I "| * !** PlN'Iri ii'I'l-IU'Si

Thirteen centuries

ago, Arab warriors

forged on empire

greater than Rome's

article andPHOTOGRAPHS

THOMAS J. AliERC ROMH I L

4*

. -m|j f- i-v i nini.ii- il iP

J

empire—tainfc far- (hing m ils zemih than

ancient R/inir ?—fnum ci-.iLh i" Su^-ifi (Vh-

tr.it Asia, t'rutn Sidl\ tu Ibv smithem Salter*,

Ami Vi lwr*v«r A r ; 1 1 1 Kirmit> I'uuleIu. and Arabsell u tars taught, 1 fount! 11 remarkable mi idemJejpfy n1 ihvir power and I c timing. I-Vir lIjl.

1

bloml ill desert- Urn r cpnqutffOte -rill Hows in

Ihv vH ii- mil nnh or -hvik^ .1 n« t IhlI

III' maUiluf- • l 1 1 1 I j Lj c l:- ;tmJ lii lE^bcViks ilS Wfcfl.

Afri'f i-'impli'tiFin rhu rA'ven curnit-, of the

£anctuiij> —parr rtf the i ttnra rilnul requited

of .ill visitors tu Mecca

I

jostled through iLl 1

trowd lo kbvi ;Ili- lihirk Slone. jicrfuintiil and

set in silver into the eastern corner of the

KiLatui \t‘A'J,L mA story is 1 1

1

h E "f this aaiicm relit;, re-

vend even in pa^m time? before Islam whenMeccans wnrshi|wd -mb divert- dchtes a-.

Ua±* pidtkss of the morning siur+ and Awl,tile great bird,.

When lilt- elders of Metre,! renovated the

hmte— tinme 11me uri dir kite sistth ccnttiry at'

nu r era—they tell info Aigumem Who wouldha} t! tbt honor uf resetiilifc the soiLTed >lmvr

Inin the masonry 5

It was at+reril that (he flexi man m enter

rii r sacre 1 1 precin c E would iur

L

ot i In i

l

i spy l u

First to appear was a you ng Meccan mer-

c h -in t w hi i se w hu h on an i linn rs( \ h ail a Imidyweir him the nickname of "Al-Amto—iJn-

iriE^twarthy Hr w aj a lean man* strong 6fbone an 1 1 tHU^de Elis thick beard Iran Led .ul

oval vach stLt with dark, serious eyes His

laugh w as rarely more China ;i -mile

He called for a cloak to be spread pH ihe

gfi-unri .md h.nl die Mho k Spine pi, iced upon:t W it h .a ruihle from lMsIlmI Wh i 'kadirnz

Sri lies pulling a earner of the robe, the tu rnl

stone whs mi -i'll Tlier l with his own twohands, the young man >lj l the -iintie mm u-in hr. ‘ivlicft il remains tolMfi day. The man's

name wav M i hiimi nr i

1

Bom in Mulc.i ini" llir pEntninrnE tjurnysh

In lie .

l

i« . i : A I .

;7 . A L -

1 1 ,i i f i it 1

1

1

1 1 ’a.i -. nr

plumed at (• and reared h\ u ttsn * Ifii tlier iu£ad

tSirn by eih LinHe In hi> youth lie w-arked ils n

'hi'idirnl. iLiii I I:li it T'mIi; with I he t atnel’cam

vans tls VHrrief! frankincen.-i! amJ m!L

ihrmjizli xMetca north to S\na Ulhamih un

lettered hr irradualty sained n»;>cd ^ a

bust nessman At IS lit* miimed Khadija. a

Wealthy Widow mam war.- hm senbrOr hh i nf\ j

Il-w viMt- little i- known except

ih;M hr drvsiletJ much time tu L'rnitrmpbiihm1 H'tefi Li . I.n.linj to - m,JI I a'-

!v fllim m lu

nxksnt Mount Hira jsj -1 north ul' Mecca, to

spend da}" in medkalkm There,

in the year M« , u triebtion nViTWhelrned

him n blinding vision ihm frightened himin his knees.

" Recite In the name af thy Lord whoi reaieth," the vbttnn contmMrled, “t Aeatctli

man from a dot. Wlm (rucheth manthat which he knew not,"

'['nmbJETL Muluimnterl returnrri In mu to

KEi^dijn. God had spoken tu him. had up-

l>i miled bird fti> rrM‘>-i:nuiT . or was he !<is-

i riic hts sense1:- -

I i\ '.viir « ortsoleil him, bdiev

tug atn In- call, and soon became hLs first

convert The rev chili an- i'ontinued + anrl

would Enter turm the Komn^fhe Mas lem hoj>

:l. » :i Ir ul In-Iirx it- e’en but hj-

preach rugs annexed Else Meet hils

MM wr/n p mott TMOIlMiVr 1

En n QMMltfrn sitbtirb of Mecca E spoke lo

Sheik \meen ASidijUah aI-MifhIm (he offiria!

keeper nf die ka.iba

"to the ‘Days ul [gtiorancc I

u

1 fore I^Luh,

l he K n ill pji housed ^totie he $dd^ftffpilarly, tribesmen came (rom all o\'cr

Vrabiii to i^ay homap;# to thi? pamheon."Hut sun- Frophei cnTifJenyned nh, lurry,

ie.ii hirur sus Allaii is hMl-, wh bijut partner—

-

umnipoEmi. umnipreseni |Vi btek Himl b rung l i nteru i> miKiery

"

Sheik Al-Shjdlri 4imved me E lie symbul of

hir- ufhee. a heavy hhnnk of turned sted.

flainiest r ml 1

1 1 in ^o!d "The key to the Kaai'in

—thif HtiUM- ul tiurl." he said “'ll was en-

EriMtrTl tu ibe Al-Shalhi family I ly tbc I Vi if diet

hi ri shell iJL'jirh tiMirt tie n cenlurtr- nfpM 1 1 Li

i

lji

L

2 r i u I s pn-jii liinp E ^ii LTiin L«i under-

mine Mecca's position a- 1 lit: renter for anj lj l rj i a zl! pilun niLtiri held m cnmuiv'tion with n

profitahh irarb- fair My rnridnmntne t Jieir

del flt'ii lie u Ifcurled nui ueiK the cfuiari trnce*

of the Mw 'ian leiurkirs, but also their jwickei-

ho£ i k M i ire an. I rntj re ht tva?> '

- [K1 n S>- iconwr],

even th real coed* an she stirris

fiTUiJtv the jrhophet and Severn I trusted

fm ,

i!'l- shprwd Hway frnm Meccu under tb* 1

m lJ i«J' .i tnixiftte&s ni^iL Mjjijtjtiiig < arrteLs,

they efrtburked Inc (he oasis uf \'atlmb. nwrc

- AamirniJf ihwgr*tphn Jtth /V72

rhjui rfjn mill"- trnrlti ihc flcMrri l!

V/ii> thr Vu-ar ti22

Islamh

> calendar date* from thb h-ugim. of

emiLji- \‘\on t of Mohammad Wlin imuM have

guessed [hi* event would a n^ttttttOUS

\\ ii bin i hundred tfn biinher^ ofi ;9* '

. , .a

L4am. wuiild spun three > from die

rtm of Chirm t*» the hTeneei

I( ING before history hepm, the j&rnbizin

, desert wa^ home to the cultural unreal or

J of th&£ c& r*—the Bedouin,

whuse flneki nf dieep and camel- earned him

sl mi l gpr Eivimc fttun the unforgiving

Often be node out on £kntftta&— mi t\$—A<

i

settle fetids ov Ed rustic cameb from rival

frilH ’ 3 n this i'nr-l u| & itiiwl 9 ItlJUl's EUtm.-

a.l-. often lu onh ivtalth tnd he guarded si

c.irrFulh ®fty* i l r j airly Ahlhie poem

IT tth nV / KnfifTtt'iuift wj y xh/ito* iiu ay,

Lr£ i'i 1

1*

' /npjii fcriwjfOH «r if may

VVt ;i BedouinA luvu rif freedom w;t-.

bridk-d by loyalty in clan .md irdwr; both

were irmpertrLl l>y an itnb linking jubrnissioa

ti j bLi d l:> ij lu T

h

h rite rn cade k* ft m i e nd t’ li Ide

msirk 'in Mohammad 1

- oew rriiLucin.

I hiitvc often uanderfd t hf harsh world o|

the Htfrlnuin Modem Arab gQVemrorrtti

have otallinsed raidhtu ami even envouragid

tin- sirirj; ii L- in ^otik oil revenue have l mis It

new rand.-. where pickup trucks speed past

the camel: Tint magical transistor radio pipit*

in m ii-Ls and politic* from faraway title-

But r'nr all that, most fin I- u no avend

jin- braini path 1 found Shf.-ik Rusher ibn

DoghmlrS tent, oni of ten spread an tony (he

dimes of Saudi Arabia1

* Nafud item, sameflirty mUrs from, Ifcc nearest water (page* 14-

.-

i l ;l|

h

h ijiiiet'l jiu arming unonnmmccd,HNo ttuiiier Few visitor* p#re* mi Jenk,"

•nitid Sheik MLj.dtny i >mueil“ man wIhjvh btard

as still as black as his penetrating eye* Hit

\v u re a <t^trk tobt am 1 while heath; loth ttttd

aarritd :i shepherds §lafF '

V-: you know,

y«n i vidiug hospitality i- an honor for u?—iindn siMTOfl dul'* Even ii nrv enemy apr^an ,t1

tliih lent. 1 am bound to feast him and pf#)U i i

him with my life11

The ^ 1 1 ' i k • brut he t Shw:iy4ia|+ m-nsttid it

handful at ^reen oaffee. then iwp tided the

bean* in a he+ivy br^ mortar. Hearini! the

dunning, a cfoKen men irom nearby Ubnte

camt Er> hi I our rirclc iirauml the fire- FromL ymid thr ji.nl Umn 1 fei.Lt flfTeened thi wr-m-

t: n ^ quarters, 1 heard the last bleating of an

UflJutky &heep Shwayltat fjo-ttr^d Uie coffL-f,

iijici i:i I >a i e I

l

i .jE

i

Luimm. intu thlmbie-si^e cups.

Nest came Lea, then more coffee.

Before dinner ive iiried uji omL-hU- ihe l^nt,

. ii r. l

|

Sheik Btishif led the cvenitig prayws

Water is [irenou^ hen?— l he ^^i^kuuk wire

nearly empty So. bd©re we cleansed

mir IlieuE^ liBjcI forehinirfs ^ymboiicallii with

jt httndfuj r 1

1

sand.

"Twpibht} Allah" whispered the -fnSk ii-

we took our places amuml the steaming trayMMay tiOil .ll cep t umr prayer

Hardly a word is spoken duringa BoddUtn

banquet We ale 1 msHy. ihfu^ttisii otir neht

hanili into the pilai r ^quifcrioT; c he nrr imih

bite-*i.-:i' lumps and pupping them uitn out

mouths [he i hoici'ir till bib- limp^ kidney*

and brain—the *heft; [on 1 out and Utid bul'iare

his puc^ts. A voukLi boy hroup^ht a iliib of

daU'> mid bowls of fresh camel s milk

“An ri nimnl need- both paslure and wall r*

Sheik Bushir sold oV't't the final r(iurtd> nt

ivllVc-UM-folfiT "Here in the Nafud you

rarely chid both in (hr -ante plate ll Wedn>Ve ihi stuck to the wellts it I EJ'.uaJi, tw-if

1 1l - 1 'jL' -i v they wiusld bu b-i-nei in

autumn. But now (be water rnmo hi us,"

Nirvi lnorntnuT hehire tiawn t awoke to th^'

-3 lu u t- uf lie r rLsmr nand ! he bray i ngofnfevenl y-

ndtl c-inich—iru i- 1 ol (hern the slL'ek white

tutiithaihirs, Atabta- fmc-st. They fil&ttd

narVtsttsly Ett spmC dat&m ^lund I could not

h i'4

l r K] tuilK ui li e i nse,

1

1

luw fin \i a w i de ( ra c

k

w;r^^ the sand, a hk Mrrcetdafl ditscl toitk

Enick pulled up Eu she piitEdemoiuuni.

"\\ bun 1 begun dri%ine eight years ago. the

raniuti were terrified, tSic driver said TMusS

had navet seen: a k ijeJi-rt- Nniv they flock

around like it's then mother

The herders Icut the thirsty tmnels lu

guf^te. fttick to ueck, at a makeshift irmigh

of oil drums They drunk ,i> Fa-st JtA our hotes

filled the trough, cucli L|tmffine: half a barrel

In u inter tin - would bnldthem for two weeks

NipWs in the3e brsl Iip«e winds n[ May rSheik

Rush if (lift’d fhe Eniker every four days

That iLfteincioiL ! canid & low line c:d

black clouds in the distniice. From the htitim

came the s'lank mul of the women[Lacking Tomorrow tlw *mnll band would

.set oul tnwiird ihe lair sp-iftnu -nnwer that.

I ike rnagle. green* the dune* with scant

tJeiphe the rattling of ths 1 mai him 1 age.

Sheik Uiiihtr would move with his clan in the

:mi i eftt e h ytli ni?1 nf a desert lit t le c li rmizE1

1 1

unce rVie time of Ih-r Frppbet

l In Swml lEfiif' ilir frrniiin

,* Jj» -r*-,

i , ,r“a JT $p|

IT'1P'rf!

B I ” (UP ^

^H[lg j | L|

fr* 1 _ i jri|

.

E **“» i

l.-T.S.r.ri[>H‘ b

1i tt „Hhm j

4 - fc?

1 »

iBKIkWjLJ T

^ldr i. -1 Ji LJjL j

I

I

i

LODESTONE OF THE ISLAMIC! WORLDSlvrta and it& blnek^rahrd Ktuihtt

j. 1/ - • . 7 • m tu 7? .

- a

command the heart t of half a

billion iMoslem*. W'fterfeer they are,

the faithful iwm toward the shrine

ftee times eath day in prayer.

itm

L.

r- .n#4

i

«

, ;1 [j|

IT TO! M( tH UlMEh .ml In- vutti-

paninn^ sbmi Utn duv^ to reach Mu- Safety

of Yathrfb after their flight from MkcILi

3 'hi-y had travded fast and rented till 1c, avi ifd

i ei k 1

1

1 r i : iii l i l f rack? and caravan wells Alerted

in hi- fiimirs^ ihe -mull bund nj Mu r I tlTi

converts living at the iutMS had wattsd days

_U tin? S'rintiC1 of palms

"Tie Inc* tome r

1 Tl* haa coirsc!” they s

I

h iui •I

Tear- stwnjig ihdr checks; Many offeredMmi ll v i r h 1

1 mv 7. , hut Mohammedsard . \ 1 !ah wxmld

^uirL fiFH tiirrK't In a t Iicih'ti -ipfit; Hie bead-1u}4hhJ -md kaii-lt htar a -mali burn u^eiJ for

.inrim: date*

Hctfti with Ms awti hands* Mohummedhelped his. follower." t>u ilrl die world's first

fin reM^uc1

, The oasis would become known to

l he lU'rHd ii- Marti nut stl-Nubi—Cftv ul tint

Prophet* t<r Him ply Medina-Aroiiiid the extraoriiinatv pcfsorudiiy nf

Mohammed* J hr small Muslim i-onnnitfiiiy

bewail to crysialiie into ,t political kirte TheProphet's revclntion- continued Set downliitrr m Hu* Kormit t hey del ailed how a MosInn should irtmrlui t his prayers, hi* bud i it

his marriiiEic, hb wars—fin whole sperinnn

ofhte lifr Th*y became the kernel uf ld:misc

law that Loday governs much of the world

Allah had rnttimaiidrd Vtntrammed in

make war JiRainA TMHibdLrvei-s. The first

Linnet wju the lusmia] fumv'LUi m^rr.liiusi

south from Hnnii&cu*. a !Tit?u.?jmd camels

den wit h goodf of his enemies, the Meccanii iiu • h:i i:i Forew .si n : I "i the Mftsl-eihs*

phtns, the Mi/c-'.ari* ru.du-d ri ii^ori i-mrtil - h-

rescue the -i-ah>\ 4(1 At lhc well* <?f BstiSr,

near iliu Red Sea coast, they aitfpriswtl Mu-ham Filed 'i artny of =300.

4AAJ I vvho die today will enter paradise

the Prophei shouted aver the slashing of

swords and the whiffle of arra v.s Oittniiin

hr red shree tu one, lliu VlM^U'ih* fcMight

>r,iv; i^ely .mil routed the Meccans It wu* nut

ye w tn dev. ihcrn, "

' A 1 1ah reveiled r i Mi ih il.it t-

tnpdL

fi was tiod"

A \i-nr later, ;n Mount 1 'hud near Medina,

rile MiHiom retaliaied, iirarh kill ini! Mo-hummed himspir tis was woundeil In the

tui:e h\ a slum.-, i iii.:3i a sword dfuseeil utT his

he Ime I anti be fell, bleedinn Com ikin inns

carried him to bakpl^

Slowly ,Ijv [mil \ and by slc}rtni.d

,

i r Muham-tacU Mm verted t.hi1 Tied* min tribes nl she

MirruiindiOK dtfajrt, musledirtc thelt smmhami swift nameb tfi Im i ansa. Xdt untiE the

y fin fiJ0, two decades after hx^ vlsion H dul

Mohummed lltr coqijuvrur reenlcr Ins mitive

city

.

n n i% ! ciif Li rip .1 n -irni . r it Kl, i.K *i l c; p i a

IT .ii ids liEEid In Utah, ran: V ':-Jrni

j|ir>w :i1 ihf doof'n-f 'In KmjiUm Ju nrioli

a curtain emhl .uorird with vci^cb

fcprn tli£ Koran Others, iii kft, caress

llir -iJ\ pr-fralm.vi Riiu L S-i m rir,

|ilii ih

i|nop by Idam’- foundrr (tUEifed

tr. 1 1 ivi rsc- nrVelatiriTt. Mf»h.immi-d

«. J^aEiLHcd thr Jincieiht htiiUhcut til’

]i-iie,uiTi itiiiiiTt'i. di’i lared Lfoil tlir t'ro

jfihf'T \hraham h^rl ernrrnJ it, and

mil i Sc Jl rhe k'dl point of a | it lk£Fim

rL'qabrd of ail i hr fuiihfui y\t Abcr

r hie ii.o tw'Kr i 1

1

nnpd Em ^ U* i ,i

— ji ci L> frifldddfli if oouLk iu"i cts*.

Si I'm in ^ Mil- litW il,. Eiikiirti.h ;irin lailti

rhr i£0-.ltI|F’ s Ilf Luld Ml Iifir p.4 tbm-

[i\\l.\it rtpoi^mou: icmpiEtfion ai

Mstlli, li ^lop liCtU Mi-.* a

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Wof)d tUFiitd up^IHe <Istw iti mnitm bl.iL, diMd-dcil. it iytUTW il I3 l

til, 1 2

1

b-t f n mr> vjru <2 l, Liriijii ,

J Aii.i

fend .Mr+Cii \rAi -vlirrlrtf AlktSFisi fj#

- tw1!<i| l.t|r fcJiUiJJLl uf thh c!]jrl Willi

i i ml 1 1 .ii I ! k- 1 1

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s n i v'C r -ii i rt ih tarn;

printed rnv rTh-i! TriiikliiK ih n^m iiihtr

i Lie Llh 1 1 aluipE fjfofli ibcrui to thttliUiml?

uf Inibnrdii

C iKiims^T-KtrinJ In Ptor<r M Mtntnun

rubt it Skily, Al-Idmi strut cmkllirmij'hmit ijie knuU'ti frnrliE T'ln.

1

.ijStlfcls-

rmvrltftl :fn,tj)v. |UftJi uliin|v 1 limu^li

llii V r\iil i|ibr" i i’— Li i li hr im k l rum k-

tull txpppwg. cn a.l'i TJi.fl uhaded nn the

k*"- u Il-Ji I'Ti'in ibrir peiftiitv -iimI 1 j

i

IiIiIl-I ES t b |!

•> AJ lllll'i IlMl-Uni LLi:h ili-

i £3 1 1rs'liucv siithet hinesc ciU’ w i iirmnii

I Ilf WlllSH UivLT in KlllMllU klll'J "it kl . 1:?

I III lli lilt I r£ I In* XlIl

I'rnhatdv (nr hi* pntrnn, A I Idii-*

m.Lrkcil 1 J n- 4lr *1 I llv FklllV it( I I iln!,

ivhfiTP knsi-i km^m-m WilEi.im inf Nur-

imanrfy fTefeaii'd (he English rn inr n

FH* S^ OrJ uftll tfti Xi'itiUtt J n

surrendered wiLtnmt a fight The Prophet

walked lo the Raaban touched the HL-ii'k

Scnne, and irt.uk* ihv prescribed -seven rii-

c u M- He ordered the Idols .jtn^hed, then

declared a Kctirral amnesty Meet .ms. riled

pasi in iwear aJkgtouue In 1 h r Prop tic l of

God Within iwo year? much of Arabia wasunlled under ihr banner nJ Islam

3 ill i the Pro pi ivt -|utm mnl m a >4* i : i w

,

i

>

nearing its. cm 1 Hark m Mu i linn he fell ill ut

fever Weakening with cadi pairing da>\ heInto 5 (

i delegate Abu Hrtkr later tn he umehi5 ilia t-Hiir, Ujl* tert caliph—-tu lead the

public prayers:. On June 8. t3l, to the arm*ol hi.-i favorite wifd AesIul, Motmmmctlwhimpered has IjiM [tovuticina* then pent el oily

SLjrruni lured to Allah's wall

THE CENTURIES have inbr^l tke

sanctuary Mohammed built sn Medinai.'f p,i'ri I' n| :

- arid sun-cirtod lirli k 'l l

galtorn- of today's Prophet's Mosque are

lined with mar hie and srnicud with stately

mta;ir*i i and a higii green dome that marksMohammed's rumb ipage* 18- Ito Paclnt: the

brass grill work ul tin* Hipukhur, 3 paid myrc&]HHb- tn Islam'? founder. Pniyin|i lu Mu-llamtnef I Ls f.trict L y ft • rhi ddi n, bu r, vl situ r- praj

t hiii Allah grant the Prophet eternnl peace

Outward Frnrn Iht1 mosque fans the nu id-

em city Eli Medina- Tdcvision *eti> blare fromended uluses; fashionable shofK ami jir-

cundil toned hotels line wide avenues. But

five times each flay, on the call from the

mi mi ret. ihi- heutii rtimbit* of Erofth falls

die

i

A Sii li

|

^ o 11

1

-v ;in* I ^ tn. i t:- cm | il s .i> i w ns-

pPQplc con verge OH the Prophet's MosqueThi*n* \> no butter \Ancv to savor l III* full

measure uf Moslem faith than here tn \k-dina,' said my friend Uioud Abdullah* a

Mutton t ill Medina** Islamic Uoj^lthIv 'Thehilltop* nt die I'tuphel h (tod -till ctho to

thrsu parrow streets'

T had Li i agree as we strolled in early eve-*-

nmu i hruugli rise labyrinth beyond 1 he bazaari J vc r ha nin ng bale on ecs aimos t mei it>i>\ u

mir hen*|>. Veiled women passed, lugging

home baskets of rprum n and turnips andsdiuolbLiysp earriud hnoks wrapper! in their

prayer rugs-. A rkmkty squeezed a bulgurload of alfalfa past ll young lamplighter>• jurying flowing lanterns Such scene*

had i’ll anger l In tie 4 net- the Prophet's time"

1 \-ntihhwf ahiykum v. l* greeted the lamp-lighter I'eate he ujxm you

"

“ST u li/uyfeuffl viihmal AHah

wa hitTviuilttr lie replied "On you [Hsai:t*i ,uii|

the merry of Allah $md Hk Jak^^riig^"

l isU waft the laniaiagu Mohammed ^jjoke.

the incocnpgarable \rabii preserved furrvgf

by l.hc Holy Koran. I: Mill servt % i Ju lingn.i

frniica at the people 1 tntl in MeriTiuk iiuer-

nil" mr-.il iM immunity— pilgrims from Moroccoahrf Indonesia, bU k Suilanest* \ eodorfe

the refugee carpenter frxitn Sorici Turkistan,

a Syriifcft ^hular parsing a quiet afternfam hi

thu library behiuri du? I Vo phut A Mosque.' \ Turkish ^ultitci buili Lin- library 12$

, gi

yeiir> ago," ^uil l lie director,,Sheik Mahmud

Akinli “The Ottoman Turk* ruled Medinaasui .Ml* i . ;j tor A Oi. I vimts, unril World .lj- I

leaving iandzils al the dour r 1 walkedacross thick carpet* to browse th-ouiih the

priceless collection of nuamy.scrq n ^ in i .c I ma-hcigany bcMikta.^ quigc 16). Sheik Mahmnil-In >'a ' n* .i i - i 1

1

1 i'i- J h. i _ . i

•«! _1

1

/

1

li --kin

parKlununL Thh Konm copied only -i

few years after Lhe IJrti|j hut's riunlh." hr said,

n:vun.Tjti>' tumin^ the worn pages.L,

li Is oneid ibe earh&st ropics kaiu^'n

’

lit showed me other vnlitnurs—early \rnb-

I

M

1 1 ! - id’ matluimaticj.. butlfttly and medti im%

l lifigererl 1

1

vus une trutHtse dtltid Obstriwti&mo (' Oi ^ i

1

it

n

v.v i

r

k

\

t,: pi ;>{ t :i >jh r,

*L k ^td i > i

i

the Wiirk of oru Aim Zayd :il rialklu in \ n

9?| Stylized fournc^hir nuips phowed far-

rtung pttTmfh ni rhe Arab Empinr near it?

peak North Africa the Nik*. Baghdad,fJamtt*ciiSp Lhe Persian Gulf, t 'drdobB- . ,,

rK^T * inn l hmn niirviIN L.ia «!! hi TH-E .Jil ' l IF

Tbr first Anil- thrusts t r. im Mt'dinn werelist to nmrt* ifiiin Becbuin raid- But Mi^lemswere forbid rkn t" a (Lack brother M urirrris

InMuad they united .rg.imM the li^tbv

uortli. By^rnitium and Pttfiia—both weakend bv vears of muUi.il wrtrfurr.

In I “ok- Mi tie Lind Syria the divert worritir?

of UIlljuN rrjOiit funmus ecner:il KhLilid ihti

alA^aiid, iihishecl iviih armies *d ity^;inlmf

J’.mfKTor Heradiui Against the l^eUi-r Ie- i-

p li til’ll jln i J m < tru nemunut • B y z nni i r.u - 1 1 1 lie? s

,

\: \ithitiUii GfOgrtfpiirr» JM [97

'

tin- Ar:ili=- pit led iheir tCTTidcr mobility ism'l

unblirilrd .'.iiliI In i; in, at the battle of Yar

muk near the present border between Jordan

mid Syria* the Arab army, outnumbered two

to one, fttced -Li.j y)0 Byzantine trn«|i- in oBf

of the decisive battles of history.

Hue infantrymen took oaths lo

land or die1* and chninnl tbrfftStlves tn-

get her , tfl oil a shackle. ID rank*, deep, On the

other dr It Hie women ni cnmpativipE the

Moslem iolctiera stood ready beitim.1 Hie lines

with lent pales Lind stones to punish arty

cowards win i turned from battle Theyti;i>;tdtd ihdr fin'fi

li + Jirr thr dm^hifn af ifo ni^hi

If vtfti JJ-!- 1L'« tldtl trr\{\f<ja' W'l.

If vtm a treat, 'wr u-Hi fotiakt jhw .

\msd shouts idJ

YI tlah akburj- tlod bmoM Linear"— (hr emperor

1

* I roups mil like

ripe wheat under l fie tlashinK Arab blades

TIN army itnriihi(ulcd, Hcrm Hus rrtraatrd in

hi- capital 1

1

j Liiu F5u.i|hjnui. Uie Byzantine

Empire had Soil the Holy Land and Syria

Thu city of Ibimsuscus* then ( hrmimy hadsurrendered n il it nn .

i rlih-r rix-tmtttlh derx

\nd Khitlid h i ud i^ued lenos tilai -m^lusumodd !'«t future \rah ruftqUi^te

“In \hc mime of Allah, the rimiprt^inhiLie,

the Merciful. This is given by khajid ibn al

\\ dfid in ihe people of Damastu> safety

lot themselves, (heir properly, ihdr rhurrhi si

tirtrl 1 he h _iS I- ni their dt;i a> Ioiie ils they

|iay the jizyaJr

Thcsg who converted to Islum wert ex-

empted From I Tic ju\\u ;i yearly head tax.—

out: dinar and a measure of wheat

Tuduy people of both failhs live side by'ii»le in i hough now the .\Rt*Lem>

form tlu- m^jprity I mlsurl with both l

prefer! Shnmi^i busy Al-Himudiya, Llie iov-

e red bazaar in the center ot the Ufd City

Crowded -hops overfillwed wilh lunmmt }ki-

inrL-i u;h V. .ire.*—-ri>p|itt. tohiid s.tT-lf-. -ik'er

fiiiigrue, iut-1 Om silk brocadesi hltsklr, \ adjusted to ch>. errim frailty >4

11 recent-dll ^ Damascus. t liill wilder rains

prayed the capital. Tt wm Rtiniadjin,. the

Vtoslt'iri month of fasting* when gaiety

always ratiStmused Sizeri? full c?f soldiers

under lineal the ^tate ul military .iSert. De-

- pit? .i fragile liucc, Syria remained terh-

n i tally id war with its neighbor Israel Xni

far From the big mosijiif I ducked TrUu ihe

warmth of tin1 cofTeeliutuse Naiura,

Here, eiii h evening bladt^ Hash and heroes

bleed when Abu \h mounts Ins pndiuni

i pa^cs Jt^- li, Abo Alt N ll rtm i

t nur ‘.toryteller

—aiftong the last of hk breed. For eeniuriL1 ^

rawbr have mesmerized \ rati- wilh heroic

tulF> uj Aniar, die iiiiJKrnturv Lf^celoi

i-i Hie BedikUiiL Such eyries of liraven [Lnd

romance, carried back I n <, rusndtfftv sparked

the ngr of Chivalry In medieval Europe.

I squeezed into .:i ^jiu between rnr ii nld

men in ton a ntbi^ and Imiddi-Mlis The waiter

hfotiglil Turkish coiTt-e an d ,i tal! water pi

|

m,

sterilizing iht mouthpissri? for me in a dish

of saildin^ viau r We hushtfl as Ahu Ail

donned bb luim-rinimeil nlaj-se-.. pushed

I nick his red fer, ami began boomirtKoul ihr

jifttiest cbapIrtN

fr> proitr hi', i&t'f for r i*<fair ijttm&ei l/W<i.

[ntnr tfmki fight the (hm,

^Oonetltf1 We held our breitih

{iUi to pr'eWttt Arttftt from t -itjpiNy, hi*

fft't 2&ert* h:\ttmi by thr vijf\nttr

l/pj

.

"May Allah sever his heari1 *

/Vji tian L pra j r: „ famnin\: /dir^r as u ratocl,

fo?ti Arttar ntri him In midair tvith his tiWurtl

find cltatted him rn two

'Tft Alhfkt lb Alltih!" ihe crowd t lionised^H,Oli '(kut 1 Oh GtfdT

Hi- courage won him freedom, and Anlnr

set Dill once inure to u ir bis- true love, shi-

lime Euiou dp^e-hfirtded ao arm> of

40,000 . but Lhat story tomorrow nighi

Heroic: is battle, tiu= Arab* cmiid

lie noble in vktfiry r 'tHelr tn .ignanimh

y

tit DiUdomilis nut lo.^t on Ssphru

nius, the Byzantine pulmtrcb of beleapiered

jerusalcrt^ He stid for

CaJiph tlmflf* the -iecorid successor ii> the

J'l.i.'hr 1 . . , L IT i' ,

I' -I : V Ilk L i. pi Elk ,1

render and promiH1 Jerusalem mh titiiy fur

ds iwsoi ilr nnrl its t n leci Iht- k-t li^.lIcjh was a

hnly cily for the Modems, urn, they tnc Ended

Jesus CTrisl amony ihtiir mamy prajihetar.

Mohurtirtifd hiimetf llr^l prayed loward

JtrusiTk'm, hut idtuv the Jcwi* in Mr-rlinn

turned acaistsl him, ht cJmnued the direc-

tion of prayer to Mecca.

The patriarch took L'a iph Omar Hie

Holy SepLttrher. They armed at the lime of

pruyiT, jind a soldier ^TanuM in -pr^ad i im^E-

praycr mat on the floor of ihe church Rut the.

wise caJiph dec line* L stepping outside lot

his ill! vui ions Ne i-rii-w lliat if the friflu? «if

Hie KitUbful prayed h&rtt later Moslems ought

be nrmved to convert the sacred silt m

s

-

1

-i

ftV n l ton id OIJ pc I

A

J

nHu .S i l-i 'fii a tui tht Sermon

Khmt\ raw mn^na). ih> I if ri> wz

ai AtziSjm Were umotkft ibr

fir*r h> r;iih. i i fttul I attuned' » .iu^e.

flkfcpfri> tibeym^ ILLd)'-* caimmtmr! ui

At Lit k mill JrLlbjulUilU.1

.tJl ill 1 1 1 ! m in\\ ra -

Fired Lv, Ihir promi-i ui heavellly re-

ward fbmjM ihy\ dk i n liorl s**vra.

the irlrhui riddet - h^ipErd Ixtlie- 4iu)

i'iliti I Hit dn minfwi:; the toncitlMft

cpdiJ cm her convert u> Islam fir pay

omiiiil Ji- iMpjNfcrt jit f suite The

14Ai’i' tut fiijf i ft 1

1 ytajjf

J

/t fi,fufh I V

A nil i ni • icltitinn as va n w hi er* fan i

ri'^iinah^ fims4.trv pmnijiLed many a

si! In in mmli wilhiJUl bloodifaeili

Afcifr E.iljsni ^atntnJ-w lyiiwniLl .\mfa,K

I hr .Lrrnif-tlilJi^JII^SilVirm'd

mlr* Syria Ilr> f*C. ottd I^Olhl. winnliijl

r 1 1

1

_ |i 1

1 1 -T . 1 1

1

I lilFSi I LL! [bSLJ,

i'i 11 EibC I Ktll

will the L'lihtimE twrila^ nf

J‘eTTL1 Fins I iilCfCF1

Bur in m evrn [iah iwv Huik

hi? m I hi- wijtlei ill vun ,4m! and In

I^aij if i Ar.'itn:- F . n ij»r v ijiiLin«T nmmnlh

-l ill Itun gin shr-yumth fur sLttfsnan 1

.

f

iiippur lull A liut CtlffrL'jhjl 'It’ll

wtloiint it! tire TefiT of a shcak

Kibnvii ’1 \n the NaIiliJ I Tn ihc

Ikdoubk hg'jripftiiHty fs^n tu an eiwmyI-? a saeml liutj

J n’i ViiViJ'tf i'i’bJ fAr' /?

Itug/

J^vTrTf^v//

It I p"

1 j!!H f . T1

!*1

"'* 4II

1

i\\ F\UK 1'

L i*i|V l r — V

L H. J*

1 lr,—

!mil^

Outer of IciPi'iMifcG for thif

di'vmiL, it library in Ml'diTia,

Situ i i Ajralfcla u-

ihtise who wuuLd -t ucH the

Koran, anfj I lie ftmimfnUry

ihilt i-li'W -LIE l>1 it.Till' IHtr EC>

dll'ii Ulrr onr of thir oTdlfrt

roi>ie> ul Initial's bf} boot*

Written on fta/eJIo ‘i- in pHJcb-

nit'Lil In the gencriiliori aFtcr

^uhmmned^ ffenili

Tlw fj-Mlhof dJLtjllimJ ii lalrT,

L-*,iLiimjf]y ilhjnnrmunl, I kind-

k-tit rrd Koran fri^htl in h.i-

jj Ltl,AseKjjiIl-IjJi Mjed> Mo---

lent# consider the honk too

eerd Iti buy er wJLmi hr hii£

[led oVtft M pficc li.uieti on Iti

binding, Iiiuj I

!

- paying x>l 1

V win lilt- :i i liihli't in.-.i nhril

with tferte* fmm llic Koran

kfinltfi a ynnrmuLtr in the

.Writ .mi Eferl fe bo ! 1 41 1 NiKCf rt.iil*l i,

bo father .--turjHf* in the roitfL-

yhetI 4 UikpE of a IHOH jtj f W h w t-

t-Vt-r iisi'ir niothKT tun pur,ITH'-t

Muitenni knfn tbw -Erriintur-e

m Arabic and commit it in

rtic n n m y 1 n ew=h they

believe. God Mpcnki

Thr $*i (t rrf ,tntf Ihi .Kiirritttf

rni^iiiK'. Today el small rmri^jur dues marki be >p«it where Omar prayed Utiily I hi-

ndnan1! move* its ^litulow aafqn tk it* imlie^L

shrine in ('Ihriatendum.

[ ri'EtlcmbiT Vividly tny last viMt to fern

saltm* a ciiy still divided nn ihr tw df the

I% 1 1 7 vis- day war. From ibe U-rrai: r nf m>

hnti'l in Jordan I « -mid took over fnln the

Israeli N’ilo: .1 vuml mdr {jMflJ1 With Sftk).

PfLleitinian friend* 1 tAtdwd the BrewDrks"t L+niiTs Day IjurMifiK high

above a roi Hilary parade

l j.wTndcnsd the bitter dhpulc betweenArabs juid l«-mrL and pul il In nsv ftarmi

Couldn't l he Arabs ai Icjirt nftnw the JeWa to

visit the Wnilioat Wall? Alter -ill. to them ft

l - one tif the most sau ced spots on fiirlh

’'Tell mr 1 h i- ' Mini cut in Jiarply, "what

pSiii e on earth i-r mnN- -in rt-i I Hutu ;i rn-iii ^

own hiUTur 3 \line wu> hi Jaffa

A few days alter 1 k-l't the Huh l4tmi.tlte

Israelis invaded Jordan Lift'd tjUkkh i-tnk all

JmiMikm After 1w t nt y >'cars Je vv s w ere oftce

more free to visit thvu holy Mies Bui now ii

v;l \tuslem - w h > i W e te revtr it i 1 1 t is v -1 1 1 ri l

l hi- iFOUliled dtl ho-lv to hiilt uf humiKttit^w <w J*

Chmtijifu, Moslem l, and Jrw - nlilct

DfiRINC THE kl :LK of i alit>h Qmzi,

|the Arab conquest gained i\s cretin -m

momntum In sen yeiir^ nsmi ni the

Miidille J-'.ist fell to hi- irnifes, tannine uut

iimul!ureoiis.ly inin IVro.i .iml Xurih AffirtL

Along the Nile SMrtrrss i idled tub?. Inn

—

where £ '.iirn stands Todav-sunenderiffi ina.

ti4i aft ft .i hhrtirh sim\ . rtvtftrtnl fi dee*- Within

IS numtli- U* toiLqniTin. Amr ilmak-V IlmI

l.ihi'n Ali'Mindrij, fiviantiumV main naval

base.. lI itietrnj Mills -l'iusii! nJl)y In (,'un E .! 1 1 ri

-

nnplc itself Hes spoi Is- in rinded " 4 ^QOfi vylla>

with 4,rx

w

Inuh--. siml 4CMtfK» lu^puying

Jt'w> and u.h> pktLL^ of entertaiAWfit for the

ntvaJfy’^

Mnn- 1 him thrw renuiries pusst.1' I fc>efnre thr

hatimltlit. .i I.Mer Arab tK'ti.i.'-U-

, t'nnniJefl t'.iirp). w W r

now Africa's kireesl city uni a faru> of

Spriiinb«s.ird Sn empire. Mcihh.i mitt

rmwds -iron nr I the MuM^uei^ itje I’rr^'h

p(. wJtefr mlnttret^ tiMa iiliuvr I |ar ijTrtft

i|ninr jL^it mark Mnli.otimL-dV LoTnh

Kleel-u: pff -fe/iiUijii rn Mtrrit. MirEuni-

tm-rl frmrKUdt'hefirHit Idamh' commiifilU

at thb dale pcitni d„.sb in a ll 63 j Like

Mfi i MftlbiLi l- fluked in ntsn-hebfvers

1

r|«Mfv.-, J*" ^ WBjii

tCi

5JmrtoC

"

13

Jr*

1

/

in ^T|

r#|

Bi

J* A

i

BPT*T,J Jr

j

LIiMINTTI^ -aJ4.i (^F Flijdnl.iM| i; 1 1 r i .1 1 rv

rnmri si live f«it Imid tvmir, aa -lrsrv-

idJr? \Uu \Ei i .-HanL- llir iTiftmifi tit'

\uEiir 1 u an -entforalStnf i i^whi^rtmdi pm'if in liaTn.iM; u& Son of a ilCHn-hi'ik itml i-m Afriutn •- bivt*, \niur

uppt'r Itrlh 1» i ill1 ill hi- In i-cliiiu Wirli

Ijrn I.TV 1 1 < a rt * -TO r * t m t>]t i U 1

-- lie|

I

UTtnJ ihr undwdijgi nil humml

Niifktmil (.i^".'rupfrh\ Jiitv ! V7J

IItJ

hr rhjiTnpIftnn his triht in vnr^ Util

I hr wuftfrr buwtrl tu I hr jui-w^f of Jove,

acimilliu^ l 111 li t1

llltr i‘vdjuifer5 of ll)ii

^ forrm i"iVf « TfUtter mf^ate im.iN- i.'uttimt than the tiiftri- oi the

i loiVlim hr LmliuLr-

- rapMh Inrjwml fnlktjtfci

! L"UU-ii IfutLi. Fct lu BujilnIji'J . *3l3r i urn-

|ii e.lEli i>n. imhlintiLM I m L'uini, HEt> S?

wilunifv. The iilir-ik 1 hid An far hum[j it]rue Hi the JhifrcffiLp uf

i:hiynlr> in mciii'Vfll Etrrojif

f ht hi- ffilthfij} >

!i I'.vi'i- A. ;

j-•

.

i.il i n • 1 1 r i

rl?.irMi I l.r . I lii i r«ff|

hi' Sahii. l .biULjl mi V'lntn (lefift, Si^hl

irnSlii un mt^invyiik Lllu- 3 "n - V4‘ = 4 Mi

rhi1 rVruli. r ;m Llmt^rA'crv 111 141 m=>A4 ir

h.t- ;sji emi"

i iii .Vww^ uTut fhr 1

Stmrrtt' rtr

Afati IhoujdiL Today its book* and news-

papers, iL- uim ^i siLics^ music* tm i vus—ami

ptdilici—leave i.hdr^iim|i on the entire Middie Ea-t V. ;i friend m dsstaftl Muracco^neeremarked. "When ,l stnE'iu Brew - in < airi ,

rvi-n Kt&b Irek diB briTJic"

These lm*, with the J smell Army dm: in

josl Ehc Stic* Canal. Cairo chafer under austerity jun i^ro.'i; sandbags bank tknvn-

luflti btiifdiiiigi, windows are taped ami

Iminted I tbe twin dgnt. arc dark Hid the

Cui retie dwJiire? behind a ruiefree smileA

H mreEv w lm- broader than i luring l lie

annual le-Uvnl of Sham id Ncwm. I it-- rally

miffing i Jit breeze "1 hr d.r. after 1 hr t 'ujitn

| link tain Easter the Skmn el Ne:-:uirj is the

‘lig'PKil i «r t'armzu ,L- to pourmtl mlu 1 1

n- city's

parks ti .reel tin sortifftg ol -prchp.

\Vr

n]fcin|> nJunjt the comic lie, I passed ven-

dors Ij.m k in Murhet. tinfoil huls, &!£$, pul-

leryj and Urmus— boiled bean*— soli I iei

I 1 r i cr paper cones I stopped to buy <i tool glass

of Ifmo 1

1

ade fv« or . a j li li i lIv y* ap IV US ill\ dn ,L.y;d

in a kmg natii bin amt white [urban and i arry-

i n ki un his back a murfcliaii* np fin rut His of

L’hviimc Hid td ci :• •: and plastic tubing- A tmn-

sisst I. IT I icfii

i

BI! luunh'i I un a i r : I rr i r above h]p

Head. - rived Lit i At a 1 1 popular tnu^ir a- I

drank m> fill I'nr a pi.uder {about MV" jotfimevi

a it lass. l-aLeen-nuiseil felipera- parked wid:

noisy risihtseefS lacked back Arid forth acru^idle 1 1 roan I Ndc

l joined a friend Alultd HarruiJ YMiv:p hi-

wife, Efoaker, ami twn small slaughter? Ji

I heir mi mi1 in CairoA El 3'iirpp quarter Kl-

zuker served m Nile fish, dried and salted,

mid spring unions.

This food a? special in Hit: Sham d Nes-

sitti." Abdel Kaznid Miid "Bolh^e frnm the

pharaohs' timv Cmio i- an Arab rity and has

been for more than it mdkrmfiiiTi, hul wehaven't Enr^i it ten our first 5 , 1.11

yi

T|

H E SA ,.\ t E dash and frrvu r i h i it si r ipped

of its fairest pnivirirtvi

I I the Per-ian Empire fn Iraq,

Saad ibn \bi WnqqjUr withered the I ore e- ml

Yimlefiird III like .i searing ilu^rr wind nodSouk she fertile island between ike Tj vm- am I

Eo 1

1

brat i

t i he Kj ms? o) K i

n

e

s

Pled noil hwa rd

to Mm-, in wIl;iI b lodiiv rlif Soviet I nion,

And Pkrsiii ceased In be

The weithh ,mnd luxury of Per-ia daiilnl

‘ dCLUTO, J"a u-ut.-l =: JJ. njjil.il til [Ijf \t.jI.i Wr.i r l«J. ’ 1VQ3

\\r.-< riFM bv WiJham - LLLU. sikStie Mn,y t^2 yi^TTiiiVAr

GtiidgATipr

liim B.

|is rustic conr^ufa'urs. Mmsy of the Arab,-.

Innoccntlv rxchanireriMypl,fow

r|

money for

"while” stiver th«j hfl-il fllwmjis awl bat

Knld was new. i hie of Sand1

- soldiers w:isr

-:itd lo lim e iMfitno-rl nriblrmans d su^hErr,

litri n'kl her haikiof L t i H diriuim- Whentolii hv i*oa i Id easily have dcmLijadt-il manyt ijriL

1 -I hi: T.sEi.-i til. 1 1 L

1 iv plied he I. i I :n \ it

Heard of :i number more than ten Hundred.

If the Arab-; had wisflrls to k-am from the

L5('n.l-yejr-nl(l dsib/CLticin of Persia, >u*t-ouF

had they nnieli in sesirb Cnder sttibH- V^.J'

power and inspired h> Ukim, Persian mt und'i/iencc ^ on tinned in ihrivi 1 and uvet Ihr een-

Itirics tbi‘ i u 3 hirer fused By the lenth i:m

tan a new Fciviiijj lan^iiLL^n r alloyed with ji

wtallli "I Arabic Wnrtfe arid punned in thu

fesirfc script Had i2 inerted ^ 1 1

1

1 o luerrnure

nl Hs own Hie Persian provinces brerl mm tie

uJ IdamV prenU^i pcrtis ami ^hnlars,, rnun

im :i .l- ILdiK, Snaiii. and nm.ir kh.ivv-ur.as _

JJk!ii.rB v:!m Is famous in ihe Wesl for htf

ttubojvjiL ur ijuattoitis, bet he iva?j foremost

;i mat he malicLm njic! .istconon’iey,' said Ifrr

Seyyed I tussain Nasr .it 3u^ offis' l: on ihe mod-ern nampU' oi rehrun t I livers it ^ IH X;i.-r

wtTHi' hi* dbetorati at Harvard un iHl m*,-

toiy til IsJnmii > Seuo:

"It is no coinodeiLCr that Per^a V i -,tdi-

htin.id ^ bnliir? were what yms in ihc W^ti:.a!l kesutb-Aiiriee rrirn,' " hr Vusr coni Imied1

viju know, she run h i if Iditjnji learninp,

-pc llIIv in Spain sind Sink, lit the lampsof EutopeV nunkeval SLliuhu

The m | hj n inn oe the 1 7tfj ctj ntury in Persia

- aw ;i !?ril den . ; nc of E -dam ic art wd art hitec

Lure—tippedally in Ulalum TI* ^nene blue

dome - and miriiirei.- of ihe city jiMium uhiie!;*

1

1

1 esen !< 1 1 py ! I: i v Irani r-fc n, < t i iVi rn mens . 'til l

rival the sky, a tribute tu the prolific: builder,

Shrth A bltas tbe i Jreat The wont of >aeb, liis

nur[ pqcti ifielHi L'ii-ily apply En Isfahan to-

day: Each ni iti bxitk> i> jj

-

v^J Liable a

ii-e.iMjrt' it.^ jrinmini ^ardeiu ttawHing in ihi-

heart of ni^bi-'

It is still a delight to sire ill duwn l hi* av-t: title

r.'t (.‘hjihar Bash, literally the "'four Harder j-gA

Xu o ftmit iteotftuplu i Jui i- I**

• I

litre. and in the nearby covrrc-rl

Jiuisilredn of shnplwi.'pm display

finest—ceramb Sles, lafpefci, numamrejjEi'pril-i iu

_H, bteci-prinLLil U:\ 1 ih’ mrl

brass-wan1 To- one dusty antique ?hi»p I

bfOtSld through slacks of illuminated mami-

-enpLs, Then h;irt£Htnn! iur a I I ch-crnl Miy

liru- - jtstnhibe 1

1

1 rn-vl, ftttnimiminil device

fwrff’ited l>s ill S’ Ar.ib-

Just i ill' ll'.iiii Strict l dialed Ben k-di

M.iyeri, ;t cmftsrriim renmv rnM for tui^ cn-

graved coppcrwuris—

.

iemI ;i inamsta> in S - 1.

i

h an’t r| winrUt nti Jewish nmmu nil > Tfl|>|rfng

hamrniTv t-i • hi led in (fee Uu$\ courtyard I

Wiiuhef] i>m- hirtuht urlwr cmbeliBhing 1

hefty copper tray With peacocks and fcazjdlejt

in :t jumtk of arabesques. He was, he ex-

ivl Limed a hoot halfway through bis iwn

tnnntJW work mi the piece Amuntl him oth-

ers finished lumps, ftagom, and imbkts

"From the limu oilf Arab coniine- l. Ji.:w_s

have lived in relative pcacr with (.heir nver-

lon I

h,” Urn kali toldk ''TlK'orffiCJdly we

have had only to pay a s-frerial lax, hut in fact

we havt bmi rn.i'h- In fti! in mam way - (Ike

liiiifin^ Often wc have been

restricted Lo dtrtijn quartoi's of j. city. or

limited to certain trade? nr kinds "i rfess

Here in Mahan, for m-r.iruc- we are sit] I not

allowed m (lie pijhlh baths

"Sintifr Lrmi w.l- bom in 144$, mod Jiws

Snivi Lull M.. -km countries," he went on,

ntferiiu: nn tes ind jjoe, a Persian svveet-

Mlr.iTi is sympathetic id ihr shah ha* per-

sona llv guaranteed our sidet ^

Stj 11.Jews 1mm

thL i ounifi, h ifp ai i inti ei ut id emlu:raUi

rl

V\ Ink she early Arab cum ply tor ^ dime lb

term? with (hr ( hrMums and Jews—\\ Li L i Mu- rollmvcrs of the Jtenstaji prophei

/kan.liter (he hr^t cn*e| swa appeared in

their own fuit h If rends Islam In thin- dk-

Thr mi I it'^jji in 6Sti after the murder of

tfet third .jJipli. Othmitn \li, iantfti^liw at

the Frupln-1, -.uccrtLled him Dub. v kctud in

Medina. All sion mosrpl HU cajiital iji Kuht,

in Irani, in order m r.illy ht* eastern forres

a^uinst xVluawfe'a t the i»mvrrLul umurmir^i

Syria, whn Wtt> * iiiitkn^inji t hi w* i --Mi.

Moslem* lamed their ^wsirtls against Mos-

lem^ in u i nib i

* L that shattered the etnpkt

In hi 1 1 \]i died under an Marlr. ai'id

Mnawira emerged at cpUph

As descend anl^ cd Mie Pmiihei, Alts heirs

51 ill command ihe ahrid.imic *d the S3tia.s

-irac 10 pen:cm ol (He Moslem world MuawivaV liyru^H ruled from UaTmisirut far

neari H. a reni un H uml the BuoipL hit ad*

(T ^

hr rents, today act! thb ovtrvfheltniuft majority

.

i

L Mu 1

1

1

; i'i

|( ( i iKlHMi I’O G\E TALE, tt WJ» to

f\ ..h i ni fiiraty LTi lu prnm nU.'<1 the Arab'1

JLA fir-! ivicvi- inti i buJi.-d I'tljirims tmwlin ^

t.i NJ -i i .l 1 1 1 1 - l i t'eylun were drnaa^'il (id their

ship while in the harbor u| Duyhuh in the deb

la nf the Indus. I hey were imprimmed there

by l lie ftH'ul raja

< liiUiured. iht Arab vii ero% iti Ifm\ ^nn\ an

army under Midiam min! ibn Qjpdm. This nr-

marhttbk central tod his men on a l^SOtbmito

march nemss the deserts i if Baluch^ian Jind

^ind flu- \r.<l> £ i ifre stormed hay! mi and

killed the i li i a. then nwchril up the Imlu -

Valtoy. trcnt’fal Ibn Qasim wms I T

T3uius;h ihe \tkh* hail thus sowa Islaru in

Indio, it was left tLi luitr dynastic^ lo rL-.ii i I he

iin r%- v -1 ,Sw ee* pi n iz m ut i i M 0b i0 a s l an t hree

iTUiiries later the tihuznavids— namert for

their ancient Alihan dty Irtoustaa—built w

I . -

1

i n n % l n s Itm prese nee on E he subcominenL

la Lull ore, udidoti^ and >. ukural capital

uf EJaktHt.LiJk, Mosk-m Artnas Have rtpS^cnl

tbt ancient femples^ hui fniiny nf titk Hindu

rite 5 survive foatr one hot. Iiumirl a/scmon n

E m i tip It: 1 1 with tin- (housamb ni supidiL'aiib

who "alhef r'.vyv I hUJ -d.t]. Hear Bhnti t i I

'

lo visit ihe damet) tomb of tlazrni Dam Gan i

Ei.ik-L Sahib, a revered mystic

Near the entrance musk ian? piayed dmmsihnrn m mi um- und JtftgerCJ mbals accompanied

the rp-itLificb. nr chanters, who Intoned meImito praytT^ Pi the iaii|t- A yuuni^ itotvilh

hmj Ih-l'si lJiLlLvIueii: iince m^JO to Ihe Irjunolo-

Uhii.-- rhylhiti and was loci in & irunce

] yjtjalH «tnp al ihe tomb each morning

un my way to work" suirl All Amiai, ll La-

Uor l1 a.ccoiEtii iii'ii \h hpid introduced himurli

in fluent Enelish and klmlJy uflered to escort

me through the chaos, “It is known thEitone*

prayers arc -tronj^r today, clw ever nt our

hrjflay Sabbath^Wf iollowvrl the pi n»e> and

t.i ihe lint of stalls sclJinti oifermsit for ihe

(ljihIj

—

brinhi jgtrkutdsc uf mariiztilrU and

batches ni -rU'j.111 L'lindiei At ihe bier we il*-

citcd Eiwiher a Fatihu, (lie upepuiE chnpEer

ol ihe K'lron. and left our flowers

Thu vt: ^pa^aji” riie^ liial oiJnr I^liim in

Pakistan would appall the Moft&m* of, --t>

,

Arabia, where pnthering a I tombs

except that of the ftophfcl liimself—Is stricily

hirliidiiun Evtn Kin^ Aticlul Mu iil-iftuii r

I h i S ii t tnj rind J f i f S i rfnttH 2$

ft i, .

_ -r I^H |UV|

jgB dV Jla i

#iljj tva •_

i

iJf" HL U. 1-MLW

'-4 *.'-Wfjs*

They k nt. w ill 1 1 if m** 1 1

1

'i ; i-u

lit liiks. 'HHkuLilri! the earth's rir-

eumkrciwr*, iindayAU'tBSiiisf' alk -J iJ-i 3 -

jed Elki' hriiV*il* ^5iiT|isrk^]iir^ artUfii

i n i|i.ir i l

1

. 1 ilidr iJWii ihk m ±±itr hiizil:-

nf Ehr jnrluir, suLbiiifaiEiJt^riiJ’iiJTrl

Ltr-H liilHJVtf ri ^ht-

Start l 3 h.il guided Vubfc n. i A

>rii ill Satul illMf k'il fhi!m 13V Ct llld

XL.l\r§ III- trade [Jtufkfls irnm dir Ikr

vJutt s i iilt for eHljii’irli !i pladles ipt

EHMuptfl* tint caiidistWMita tit Imltfl

"nr lie liklu of Chum Fur SOD jnssrs

Xrzih >liipv ruled rhe Indian Occlim,

jeh! ihty fci.EVf thBrijpkl Huta in de-

licti iirtLiv. Shipwright.- nt Mubnuy

cm the Ptorfaii ItuIi iltflj mil jElhii

lm«l Jims fill:, ill u dtip% wish I Hr

Am srni ptumb line dnwur rights

HijfiC th*y bore nilil link'- with. a

Ijow drill. thetr jtnecsikus Lifrt plank

ro p(jvnk wish ( Mi «m»T fiber

Ainli^ "i i lil meAfrunjd ihi- Lau-

mdfi of port* add |icml I jijt< I* with

Lhi‘ ll^L n 1 1 j I is: i below.- i ilfrck «fi-

l-i 1 1 1 1 1 r- shty \a rf« l«I, M'^k- '

cnlfc*- snrpEL-^ril Ehr Jn-rirnt.- in

i^rrnn.n>my. building terc-a t ob*rtvit-

.it BaKhdjid atuct Sajunrkund.

rire SlAVJflrf <Jpfe/ ni. iVruMir

the iViimiln'r rif i hi 1 country that lipur^ he--* b

ip^i tin iti .511 unfnsrkirt) grave

Near the Kj.-rnjiri L!j_.. tuir I hailed l l trl-

cycle taad dud PakiaUnis call n ri e k^ho, a

motor -.onter with eiicEosLfJ bach seat un hen

The roller coaler bus yet to be buiil ituft can

equal ! hr kite! le r ror of it r i eksha ride thn iti^

rtish-hmir traffic in l^ition-.

"J"3 in 1 wing handlebar.* h:ir rl over and

^tieefciop the throttle m3 driver plunged

mlo the nich-e u! hors^dffitwn wauu-jib, bl-

cyde*. barking dug.4, and tru«k> O.vcafL-

jostfcc) doufi bedeck buses I hisn t d a 4tih r.f

rdid whdh the traffic—Limi tbivefr

—

sknved Vj ,j crawl Ahead, a naked bo>

hurled tfung .u (mb water bufLdoc>, |i fc i 1 ht-iv

driving Them through an, intersection.

AS E S I s MV 3 w i35 rai .->1 1 1 u its h rsl 1 1 un eh1

r5

j | ukme die Indus, ii ihou^atiti ititle- ;l- ru**

XI the Hindu Kli*h to the tiurth t lit caliph's

foverpnt of P*TS«t* Qllta^a dm ^ 3 1 J ^ ! 1 1 1

1

cfpBsect the Chcus River and the desert^ "l

Tti r li istan . H i> &eriv cavalry rrivn quickly capy

t sired die uiLfies «»;' Bukhara, Samju kattd, and

Tashkent before marching oti,. Borne accounts

f-iiv min i ]iina ?L*e|f

Samiirk^md had long prospered as a trad

iisg center <m the ’tilt rout* from i lifaia- In

Samarkand (he Atabh captured OtuttiMs .irti-

and from Ultra Icurtied the art of pa|rtr'

mjiklnu From Si;i fnifcrka n ! rend 3 ii ^

I

j i. 1 1

1

papermakitig 1 raveled, vfa \mh ^piun anil

Si 1 Hy, 1 nt ip Christlap KurapvAboard un AerciBtil propjei Iro its Kiibhil t I

rrn^ntt the winding Oxub* mov called the

A Jim Darya The diver -.erjietslii.i. heidrt^

divided vanity different worlds: one uf kings*

l he ^ihvv ml nmm:--ar-. Abruptly 1 hi cnt/:\ -

t|ui!t 1 1I1 >r- nt green—tiny Afghan farm^

—

1 handed 1,1 Kiral 'urdi-rly rertmtEtai nf Suvkt

kolkhnzy. ur mllmdvr farm!:.

We landed at Tashkent, capital nf the

1 /bek S S \£. and du- l.±risftst eiiy in Livies

Central .A^ili The low pulse rale nf traffic

along \f - -nr lined houlcvarrb belled die-

l ily 's roll- iLi, iih fnrlusUrkiJ rttrlroppllA of u

miEJiim and ;l half people ti< factories andmiEU Uitn out everyihsnu trfjm ^vtilit^ sl(KtI+

and feitiUiers lei tnicT urs, LdephoneS, and

movie projettots As n ceruiT of learning,

Tashkent < lami- In ni|kAgL-> mid unjvur^itk r.

and rESearch fn5ttiuEij^

At Lfriui University' I met Prritoof AkrnmKhndja, of ihe Facults nf'OrientEil Lher.iturr

(CaM&mcd twt page 32 i

rcsTtruits of hifin ih . ab irai 1 p'.iKi. u

that cnri (it- imtlliEiliiil furever ^rv(*tfc

3-Umii rctl. Sif^rfilE irf LdoljitJy, tUfh

rrjeetMl dn‘ ivMag hs-

int'h -tml ri'-thMiil ipplied the pnnriples

<sf mutielry myriad Mirfii£r>

[.'Align# in wd dip <Tiglj (

)

1 r.i n

-

lorm l he Friday Mow® in fferat a Al-

(fhanifctHrt. Inin a dsimmering pnradiitr

C'lUligfapIly rifcj sts «(ilnnin- Twcird.-

J 1 _ t

lJ—fc—

W* 1/ ii

portpy .ind praw IVr-iun Tiuittcr?;

;e fri>in SSk Kr»rati irlhleTk^ .tl

LLjj|>Lji tapJiL

AfalnrsnuP? vih*\ dn mthlc

lin-iiiaivd 1 ^ptlot trayi and ,i (urge

1 unik holder 'jibovtf'i in hloMflirjn, li 1 enter hir 3 'crsian ns-.

Nairdruti , Juh 1^72

rtsnesx

&v*h&

mnL nLU

4 lh\C»C*•& •r * '

«

u^iriHL MTI7?r6PI^'TP ii * -'1 * 1 l

>

The sisterl lood

l>t* IslillM

felt* l v La It fit. vt Hf MiA ktt - , tlnn he

^ SCHJ 1

1

fillE

:

-1

: i:LLL1

1

1

A - 1

1

i-IIl ill : mtTH

! J4 1

1 -> hi|

in 1 hr U.iUlt yrillie. Li Mti*!L"iri Huual

pefipti1 hi Nlfltr 1stam incrciiunnjy win-

Dinvffb tin 1 ill- Sin in ( onrinrnff

A lijili rrsi-k, iHshiumJ.ite the

TYrshifi Gulf, eh* privacy nt an

AraL \\ rUnn t i l;] kl 1 1 SiW ki ri l: t LJiH? till- |r Lil

Dubayy Kilim pfpittjra fcminiTt* madtSly

jjjkI ohtdJctlH to ti-nrl; iFil* wtttjth' nfiL-n

adricti Vcillt1.il Mill -fM'liHlnTI, -ru-Hnrv lh;U

bci.-iimc biatui symbuK bat tu iw are waning

Moslrm Utw has dw^y-t gmiflid wimi^n

r ii: In ' In fiMiE-..'ri.-- .inbErilpmcp^iitsiii divnivif.

E^tbu iiibuvtN lLslfri« In 11 uni

VBTMty Ipclyrr in < am u iA'hurc- uliVct5e«l

m»mw tiLirtid|i.iiifl 1 ully Mi jwbtir iifr VIn--

Uml btiJe Vugli Hiiblb I Upper rp^lili m'

Lalninf, ^akrbtan miifrit. a university

i S:i- -smalt thi p ( rnwTi 1‘rmtY m| HufUa, a

nrijic-eh vtatt in MfiriHm Pukistrcn

fil

nir m cAftiranrs of bkaltif

ttiOrttU iht? laithftii c'ii l r

1Yi‘fnt\tu'\ thv Kant Fi. J .f JL j- cj

itttt'fttxtt’ pj f/int jrjff-

jfVnrfcm riitts </ r-r/

JiCrif / r

J

j rri pi,

Th* rihrtmt

lii'rjrf driff ro in jiff v

ffffot tuxtifjf In /drnwriT hom\‘$

utltl nrjirmfii irtitn, UVtJtj iftt-

xmtillrr rupt n Muniurn# elttim rt

f >n rot*- ftltuLr fttf pwyt'r.

-A ? -

r I

mm

r . _ -m

L

1 J

m*_ J

j ^" •

- th_V^£**

Ht wor<- ii dLirk Imsim'S* suti and ibti embmi-'|i h“<l biin k skullcap that mark- .1 3Vln>kvm In

Tash krill Prof^^r Khldja_ 1 Jnund. had

ssfff|$(ww straddled the iltfficuk iutp bdween.ithrtvLk C'<immunilrin 111d hdu 1 ei

bj \JL±Il ,l-

ibi- supreme heiii.it

"Herr we hnvc hulk n new order," he told

mi 1 with pride - Jn the fifiv-ocJd yCAts since

die Revolulmpu Uzbekistan hiu grown from

a backward exp killed provltine of landless

lic-i ,t t*. I - 1- .m industrial re public within 'he

greater Soviet notion

1-zbekktnn produces mufp Cotton lhan

any nitmirv m the world except the; IT. S. ANow our people are counimg bend . - mi1 fin.-.- of 1 4 f capita [Lit t-ike hn-i h-

cni care Here in ! /hckKr.un we havi1 nowtin- 1 !

j': Jfi dm: tors- that's moire than in the

cniirL' country of Imn r '

Onlv Ifrft ryiiicf -"Uthwest, across the rtejiert

from Tashkent^ Sia-ri iri* Siiiumrk&nd is still

liejrwebd with dwnirncnh nf its f slamf r.

11:1-3 Mi?-'! data irnm ne nrsu of Tamcrnne,a Mimgol who rijlnl the Mci-lrui

I irnm hm' rrmre ' han six < enlurir after

l be first Aral, -/oJupiesiv I'articrl.iin '- fTfltHl-

swn. the learned Ulugh Beg, built oil observa-

tory on a hi If outside the city Half of a huge

stunt sextant has been preserved by dihfent

im fitMili \ museum dnr unu-nt-

thr work of ^orenof L,lajnh ! m^ihL niaiiriiins

and iiMrononicr^

Tamerlane and Ulugh Beg -Inj

1 ta-hr.iili

» lit azure dome lit 1 p' i.r-1- Emir in SamarkandNearby, the enormous mosque iltrdti rated to

Tamerlane5

- favorite wife. B i in Khaiium,

Stands in nun- From the twcllng UU 1 - 011

tniniLTi‘1 t dt:ripht*rcil j fni&rrneiit uf Arabic

(.dal taring oat nf rbt* pitst, ii Turk-unum former k*vt* thf bsp^uf in Khn .1 Soviet I vriiraJ

Aaiji. Ancestan of su. h Tun^Mongol jjeupJrii ft-H the power and attested the pnimsM 1

cif

Hwn (hiring the \zahv jir-r LL-ntiir> i*f 1 inquests. ITaty pirid Eribuicto the new Arah capita!

—Baghdad—sn caravan aiier mTnv:«i leaded with rtihteiT bpb limjli, f.ihrirs and slave§

Xtiiatiiiil ('Jr' i'v .'j/.vjji July f V 7,'

script. The mins, sccmod lu priu-luim with

their \mi breath. “. a*k Aikth His forgavt-

nctS before you dk 11

Il'LtSW (IN to Bukhara There the, H'-1-

[fHrt Knlyan Mhtiirrl. which omt served

. l - ,i I m 1 .1 : 1 11i&l

~ fiat ilic sultan+< c

Mill tuwers LihovL1 r.Ur luri miuhasit, or Mos

fern (rotlege m Ihr Soviet 1 uion

‘“‘Each year, my lututirlsl guide, Sludwr,

itihl me,l+

it g^tdiiiiri. about I tiiriy -indents

They lejtm rril peu i n.. islaiftfi Uwi and ihr

Ve

;

1 1 1

1

c LuL^uaqr. tind liun return t-‘ ttrit

provinces I*:* prfcn h iti <i pc *iJ rrmsqoes

"I ri'ninnl iL't nay mother anr| r Ltl Sit-r le.ik-

tug Arabic sii lmnHi«

l!

SJiJiher continued “Bui

my I.uhLriiilr- uE I hi- j£i IK 1

,U ran find tm ill ed

in A 11 Lilt and Mi> l^njiln'l Vssil a n

>

a

ittf

tM iwadiiy^ and you will see mostly tlwr whito-

hmred Still i'ht?r<- ire stunt 400 active

mosques in fhe Soviet ! -uiuuJ '

Mr iliihfi allude to prti Revolution lifsuareq

before \*U~ there were ,14,300 mosque* Ln

Russia I Si.id visiter I uht- id 1 hi- tiif.Lsqu.es Lhrtl

i> m ill Hi tivc jo attend ! ricLt^ services i Inmumv slay in \lm;t Va, : aphid of the tLazakfo

^ S R < On- ui Hie itv>l beautiful miTiw i'll ii‘-

if the Sqvfel Union, it life at ihc foul at Ehr

majestic Tim Sh.tn. u raniii1 rising like ao it y

wail mb wart tin? border btftwewi the Soviet

Union and i 'Hum. The muezzin climbed the

^rrmll wooden minaret, crowned with a tin

crescent* In rail mw.ui player (rightl Shuliur

Wii - ru rnpea T tit- far tii 1 - aw w err fra tfl

another era—all except inr the shulk. .i unmylErudtiDUr of the Bukhara sen linarv

After the services ihe sheik toff! Ihr coTl-

pre^aE 1

1

-ti i lust I was a Modem kind hud mailf

rhe fuJ'ji ntmiif.1 n . Mt-rt ,i

—

a devotion di nit'd

by Soviet policy in all but a token few

**A I'./ru mdu i’j.'iVi Ij Iu

t \ i ey n i urmu ri'd 1Alluh

bt praised1 " MaJsy pressed forward in Ulsv

my hand; fine bearded patriarch in a feng

quilled c/m/wh .mil hiudi black bouts staked

my cn.il. theft hi> face, i'nr whrtt b|i ^slni55

miplst rub off I left, cht&taic back tear^,

In snv lout ui Soviet Central \sia, ii wju>j

Khivut in one <hf ihr screer n l-i - -Lr:iddliii|;

the ' ixu5 River. Hial ifit* A call in ipt fell mndal home From liie modern SrMet Union I

-ti*|

q ied thmugh .i Ins^li mud-brick gait- and

found myself in ll jl- am lent Middl* ElSt

fe.hn- ji. known to hfelory fehwjuizm,

was h-nj: -i cpitdf ni Arab teamitic S!^ moss

i .i nil nil 1- fon 4\\m Mohammed -bit Al u*a al

Khwarizmi, who din I uhoui aSO. wroU- r^irly

inMiise* cm mulhc^uUU:^ The word ai-jitb*

\\ ,L’ lii^ invention "algebra11

Ht- very i-ami 1

,

corriL| >ted» survives Ut ";driorUniih—the \ rattic

sy’stern oj numerak. out1 through Pints plu>

arm, ihas the wdrld u^£5 loday

I'Vu1 Arab ikiicA can proffer such u Superb

panorama of IsliiTTue art and arc hitec lure -

.irched i.need columns ihuzlmg

mowdc uk1 work "Thi" city Iui l- now been dr

dared a lutkiiml nrMsmM jn-e.nt^’ Rus^oti

Wttht 'il"LiHt told me m Khiva. MWfc ^ire even

iMiyiEsq. thr so dial w-e i'uii restore it

i . irnplctely t

S

ue many o/ the per-jilf rri use to

Iravtr. even though Wf offer Eltrm modern

su.-.u'tiT’ient.? OUbitk' sju- w:iils."

I could Imrdty blame the KhfvjttRBv l iul-

lowed narmW' itti paved streets past iiRifile

wl iT 1 v \va? \ it- j houses^ each incade juionynmii^

except for a splendid wnwjen door LLirvrd in

Mui?/rin calls .« JiundtuL uf bdlieverf in

praysr in Aitnd. \lil, caiuml uf Kaeukh^

slitrs. Tn WVP thr i%mpalll> oi Mfidcttl ua-

tuinF.., ihi 1

. SuS'jrK now- lalrmtc hlniiL

f/ji Smitiiimd r/jf SvfffiMM JJ

h-iiim h vi' rtrabe5Hju.es Bfcsidc onr buK un-

old woman baked dUks of unkiiviued bread

in j beehive uruthen oven« it sc^hl 1 hat n>minded mr of (Imam Yemen mid Moruim

UA s^snlaam iitaykitmfyn h«i m r

rrr

J irreeled

her. Tile A Fable salutation sqni\i- m | he

local Uzbek t-Plypifc “Pttttr, my nmther M

“Mb vttijfkiwt ij salaam!" sit- mnHed,aritfine u bun-dlt of '-I icks to her . rurklinu; ire

Mj footsteps echoed under rhr rfoincs of

an abmirlon^-d caravanserai that Led i nlo the

ljiiiMiu li wh> Sundas miming, the oh* c-a

week market, when the m r h r - [mm ibe r»iit-

lyiilfe luiruri Liirnunmeg play smuN mphahsltor a fljiy Melons tropes, and red ptptf&t*

tmm ihfir private plots site1 scsld or bartered

for cradles embroidery. I^imd-fprujrri sickle^

or iht- local whized pottery,

At a small restaurant I had a plaieful of

ru't' anti spits of slush kidudi for 2 * kopecks

less thiin so ctiw> tested on a worn carpel,

I watched a Turkoman farmer heft two ui-tailed filicrp ititu his donkey curt The creak-

of its irirnrmmi-t whirdfi parted tin- i rowdits he runi h|#d stowly t iward t be we€fceiti unit;

Lind die 20th century beyond.

W EltiHTEt) by its Aslan pr nvoniee,

the - eater of gravity of I he ArabKmjjire urariujilty shift tit eastward

By 7 <j 2 I he AblntTiirlgi, ei dynasty descended

from Abbas, an uncle of the Prophet, hodiiKi^LKTt'd I he ruling famiK m kkmia-cusand founded a new capital un the Tigris in

Iraq Buzhdnd-L\ih|»h Mansur laid ibe murM-iuc., and a

hundred thofrSiiruE iuvhlUni ^ i r.ift-metir and

laborer* swants cd to th u task* niisijig n cir-

cular dly nearly two mi It? in diameter, ringed

by three fcmceuLrii walk At l he very center

po 4C the irreep dome of tin- mLiph - p^bice

From four highway' rnd ink'd like

poke!? lu the distant rim of ilut empirei July 50 years hirer the BiishrLar] of s dipli

Itarun oil- Rashid—miimnrruljjGHjm The Thousand and One lfight&—ll^BcCttd the pros-

Iperity of \ r .tb rA vi b / ;o i n a t it--^

\hlak Mi p^k-

m

historians describe u thH-cptiun for envoysfrom Byzantium in which 7fk} chamber! nlrtv

7.' JOB eunuchs* l60tCN m « .ivalrymcn and fool

men, arid ft parade of ](>|i lions book part. Thepalace tump with pJIdcid uxta&? anil

22,0(ki hies, while in ms jirtlficliil tm Ta^h-

ioEiuil uf l'i. 1 1 1 L .uni silver lurch an tail birik

chirped mein] he songs

Such wL'itlEh and splendor itrcw skillud

Unvinj! msd cinres bidiimi .j

latecoTner to Friday serx sccn cisot^ t tki-

fiii.iKjLL^ iti Mainr-r Shaiir. Affihrtniitrt<^

Tlit* lainic jh-L-urd canm and MdPkin^cjsrt- rn the ho,fte llmr their cdnidMiiu

will hr cured in t hi ^ -1 1 n rti* Li^ Aik mi!i-

ill I,|M 4i his heir ?!" Mrshiimnipd: VfphiHl^

hi- h c-ve hi- lie- hirn^t here

Timed Lu dJffercnE rh^ dun*,. 4 i u i-j- >li -

"i hlbS jtml ihmii^rhfJnE |>aJjiitrch knvc ittif

% laiflM' Si I :iri1 m< I? rj III- I hr dUthiTfiViUn li

Lliar mnic ULtyiul afford the tr^nfl

jniirney to Mecca fl pifenniaut

In u 1 1 hi: ill :- 3irLni- r tidi* beit >uli^tiluic

i 4iVii/Etf mat (Ffttarofdirr, Jut) i y 72

1

II

^ -1fmf*

Jn Eg ran 1

PIfrBf iBV?'* j

»'

— -"jB

1

' ''

1

1

'y‘

'!

. J

-

rll i *-r-"^r

,1 '

]

u i i :_ j

Wi* V'J1X. s*, .

ptieis Anri mtisklaos to Ike city of the Abba-

-11I-. The bumble life followed b> the iir^t

caliphs nto foremen In the line* >! Vbu

Nuwj*. ;l j"U ii inmpaiwun of i aliph Hnrum

i'4Tir yi' r ’r It ; jf ytiurSfty

II fwtt ?i'rr KUt'iW E.T iff

lit# ^ J /Jr" r.T ,|/

Still* uimUt I fir Abbots Arab learning

floweret! inn, drawing inspiration from

tSreecc and India, a In?! fur conquest uave

way m 4 ihjrai for knowledge "Tin* ink ol

^holar^ is mnre precious llutn tin? blood of

mnrtyts,?1

(ov> un old Arab savina

Philosopher*physician Abu Ah nl-

1

1ngayo

ihp - in a 1 k ft i?w n 1 n r j 1 1 W 1 -a 1 l \\ . 1 enna

)

wrou- In- yrrp?rfrt, mi *j b lapedia of Greek

und Aral nr medical Ion1 iFuti, trattslaltd Ifito

Larin would retnMn Edrofic’s standard modi

1 al te*i for fou r « cmu ries At Ra'ch 1 ki< f

.

Fliintiyii ibn Ishaq Irartshiieri Tlato andAristotle Galen's prkeli-^ 4*fltowy> m lb i. 1 1

I it now lost b the original Greek, survived

njily rhftiLi^h Ishaq- Anilm rr-hrlatifin

[I'm lu -I ruiLtr- bfuu^lit Lij RiL-hd.id the

iiimifiFriil.H -till imfer to .isH Arabic

T

Radi

daiYi- srienlisis bequeathed m our lafjgujigt

sueb Arab woeefe a?. “cipher," "ariimath,"

^enllbr “aikaJj," 'kimalnamr ,tnd ".deojml

Arab iwlronnrncr* U|M l.n i- l PinJemi pluUn]

tbeorbb>o! plwht ami iucurjtdy measured

the .d/c1 of ibu earth

Caliph Hi run >rm frnvov* tn his am [cm

pu r ;1 ry 1,t h li 1

1

f 1 i jj'iLi i:1l , al whn e r *u re—a r oft*-

itistrTiian pul it—"they Wert -ilnbl il)R|t m the

iirt <if w riling their names”

'’Today fibihin^ mtsjWas of xMunsurs 3d

mous round tilyTsaid a Baghdad ft tend* Mi* 1

liainnii-d J-iniil Shoiusb A former iivofi^or,

hi 1 rgm directs Iraq's Inform atbn Ministry

Stwm oiler tb i1 iroMi'i-. century’ tht rwwet

if 1 hr caUphfl wiihefietU finally, in I2^>.. the

MnJi^ul, Ikirdt IcVekti the i iiv"

Mbhllmtmd Jituul^ uffico .diove Tahrtr

Square over looks a sweeping pauiurumu ol

Hii'-thdiifl today In runlet En the law brick

Itoh'hlv. and gardens uf rhi* silbvirtr

acro.H- thi- biets-rbi iLfrhih 1 Uut liIliu^

i 13.TU.ei ;1 1- R.i- hid :Sl r eel y m tkjl;zc nlot i : rn

I r .lii -hammed Jamil lalked nbiHUi

hi.« iroLuitry's land retmm, m lK fl in 1 m 1 • 1

1

ae rirtd turn:, ant! growing iutluiLiries

“During all lEiii^e M'nl-uriiSft iil'Ecr the de-

cline nf ihir" emplrt* Iraq was a feudal staler,

fjr.ht under the Turks- and more recently un-

der the ptEi^ptri kings Britain installed WeliiL'-e inherited tiari thing- fmm ,

-.-t

mpmes, but wi- Imve many p\ms tnr chmgtiiml -Vhibim urn'il Jamil ^aitL

"The prime force lie hind Iraq's mdcmi^.ilion b our Bnatli Arab Socialist Thirty Ihsi

ibis i|dcs noi mean ihm we nre ;r yjUrOite oi

; 1 n '•> other ?i>cLalist cnmnm%" lie contrnticrJ

"In vutw way? we vtiuy tft more wdalfcrk

(haii Rufina Bui nUis li TO Aratj *oi-iftfhmT

atheist pot i lie - 1 nu Id fflftVtf dbldfe^*

RKUajniJS FCRVnR remains dmui

pant force fn Arab life hxtny Vd u \$

1 pole cOmpareiJ tu tin 1

steal that tfimvi

Arab corny utjrors across North Afrhia in ihe

l:. ^

f

1 nf Christian Ivurope-

Vn 1 eh I hr Nile thi? Arab?= pushed rJjuir

frcmth-TS In WJZ n hold general namedl "qba iLiti Xali ter

I luv vnVillry .1 wbirKvjnd

sWeefi mro-- Nnrth Africa ibroLtgh Tura.4i-i.

Mlvnj* Ami MnnorMro. On a -:i sn[\ Iil-.u li tuui

Vgcidir 1 In IhuiiUiyanl Uqb^ uearlv 3,000

miles from i tie Arati capita! in liamiasrus,

finitlly galtnpud mtn rlu ^urP ol the Atl-mln

1 .1 >r< 1 l i -m

I

I ir lt ml iilj ->. hr :-]|i uni l awi

rhr breiikcrs, "were l noi itfi|i|in:ri by thih ^

I w * li Fd CPPC]iiiT mu re J.Ltn I - for Thy miLl-!"

l’ql‘‘Ts suin ->ors esmbli^kd an Arab

presence m North Aincu that undurcs fn iFii?

day ( nit1 by urn11 he iasi By^janiiiLt roaMal

slropphnlrj.s-—

'rrijlplb CarEhag^. Tiup^tee—

mjmbleil. \rab Otebi -non mode the Mcrji

Serraneaa 11 M^ lent s-lm

II was uimvan^ not Cavalry 111,1 1 c,irrtfd

1 hr mi, - nf Mobfljpmcrf - «ue h li; ram she

v ns l XfdiLira himp lipes of ramvls. driven

Isy Tuareg nn n 1 ,id ^ moh 11

1

1

1 1 1 incs -w nf\\

m-Mi, -:ili .m«| line leatberwork Eu Kucnbi

M^nniug a Cm^jch r sviem- dh Vi.,,, . n-

1

n < n 1 mu r Lint t aivLu

I In: Aegean port iM ^myrmi tn H02 Ltnrl tnpMiiL rr its iSefriidert \ IVr?ii.iii mjrvKf)UTi4

pwinteil l fcnniTn! feature nn t hi 4 hnstiun- -j nr I rmbcLlb-Heri their r.^ilr uilh \rsihif

nrLpL Tlic CrUiUtikrs trylrte rn nvin Jphtfafenli ttewb anr^ynl ite Arnlj world, -il

1 r.iiK uvrmtii an«l tbrejaifiEtd with iirmiliSlraliin by w-iv*,:ifiir wp\r ui Tufts and

Ikinflph Fhesc tnvaclrrs Irnm CcnlniJ Asiia flbpl|M -cd \r.ih r LI Is huE, li- Mn-lem-,

i- • 1 - 1 1 L. i.

1

1

1

l~ L j iUm' f *Ly llV i»b ini aiiin i i UHitl. JHHl VflWU biii[*ji iIi

} i i, Su or rf UiiiV ifa' ^rrtnifn If

[¥

I*

v\i|h 4 Minjj for a prlyvner tit * liarJ. Tfmkiite AruK nijliitin v m (hr hrart (rf

\fniM, [he lALilliuJ- ttirEi iht> wetlBg MAfetn in u froVArpij^m i umj^JUniL 5iieh LnJi.Tin'rs wm!niu'f 4i ii mini Mfcslnvi*fv HliHe purflmucit bv.,Mn>!rini-ftti-jme >\?rvant- jjm| tfbnculiiiitti

.1$ X/i 1 1 i imil I h'iftfrtifrhh , Mti l I K*T2

iif imr irtatrncTiC hy Ihr knrin C'lilhlrcn

tif .1 - >iu uliiiiv and hff m^ter \vi-n burn

frect mure, roii? iu bitdi ffCHrfiimml pent*

;gid (.mu and TlnihiifcttL Minmlflu with ivory

.

P>tdH first! 'I4VL-- So, avtir tht ctriLurfo, the

seed*. ut I .-Lieu ypnALU-d, Uiduv. Modems out-

number (T

bn>i.iiin* 1 n Afrfc* lsiti to r| ne.

Grossing the Sahara recently, t found llirtl

diesel truck?. jiNrpr iinr! earna|thine* bud re

pluted ihr I n-iftlf < UMUUU luid mtKSt linilf

Gloried Skthamn cities now In English as Innriy

military p&&M ursliabln loud market centers

lint I did tu’iil une splendid wep inn a ^mir

of pale -blue-and-bmum village* spiked with

minor el'- and tick amir! >Lately paints some MK)

rmle> --uaih of Vlgier^ ihr i55U<£. 11 t Wadi

M/iilh ine.vt pitsc« In this parched valley 11

Berber croup uf T badlu% fundamentalist

Moslem sect, settled nearly a thousand years

Kuf leninnes this ttmely retreat hit* kept

a firm grip im it-* Identity

Ev e Cl today, Fu iv in u rry iyu f -

1

1 v I he valley |

village still hicfc Ihvir jwitc- each m^ht-

ShliJk 1- strict, honest in their deal! nos,

their only law is ibc Km ran Most of ihc hanl

tv i - r kiny Mop.al r| ie- are Isudpoitn* 1 1 . 1m S

Eli ear way u ilh the dinar U tcgciid

Business wni brisk a$ 1 walked ;di>iut the

• ..U *1 1

1 '! 1 ir 1; i:\ il.n... the v.iikx - C.n-I

tnl Tradesmen were getting reudy 1 1 ir then

annual l

,- -in-aJ o| tta; ( Lfpeta jpfte %it mu

railghl m> eye and drew me Into the llrKdl

shop 5 if Mu&a Najnr lie wore u spotJef*

u hits* 1 urban and flowing pindjim; his thick

^losses and pale complexion bespoke a fife-

lime .n 1 hi1 abacus

d’rmsn 1 hi Iweiiiring, the soil n| Wsuh

M^ah wa> i?n- poor in feed lis/' Musa e.v

plained In impcceahle French os hr unfolded,

tint after number, hi?- fkriit1 \\ "And su W

depended on 1 oermwefc Hut oitr nty lay far

in ins tht* cara1, an muitcr.. and mar mcrthntl!^

had U> Vent uri- uul—Urn 1 Wr 1 1 m -"l < t.luM 1 Ly-

1 1e rtft I Idl my 1 cacu 1

1

Ifiit L-nuuuh hi^tun You would IiLl- the

nJg behind yuu. I know \\m fdgned

3 n .ill hijs that nut Wm hail 1 splendid taste,

for m foreigner h'5 She lies! piece nu my -Imp,

itinrc iixpt URivift, but u'lxrth it

"

Stuhhamly 1 itu<k t" my olleJ?>. hut FioaMy

—Eli -;irnn-«il ht Mu.-u'.- .av ifel t.’ilk- ravished

by hi^ liigic—1 paid more than 4 grnn| haggler

should WaJkittg away with m\ 1 1 ensure, I re-

! nlfe|l

lii p- Vr.ib jirmerb, A sijft urn inn van

i:ikt ms Ik from ft Ik mess"

The Athantir -luppetl l i|ba Ibn NafiV

drive atross Afriea, but EurofM? lay only

nine milts across a ^troii In 711 TiWiCj atm

Ziy-sd limded an ;ltmy of IJJhnj near the

Mii i'i - ,if {J ifiul thi Si'rmntf

t *i

• >f§-f1 k - - 5 -

pV\_-

1 *y ^1! m±JL,\r --.lg^

: -» , « mlM__ ^ J IjKgi *

*’b 5“ -j;

^ 10it* ife

'n • iflfcJ

_ "w*“... %JkfJ EiDm ~2at KuaPfa. .

iy /

rfv^ i*

+i

jrf JjL|,Jk -l ri*

yj T_Ci ,m

I'll r the t u i [ ti Hi] I _ ihe minims

lll (ih^nl to i fc^Cf ibrivr n > I'J-irr i f

hvt AlpHufi tcwHs where Islam survive

llLUt‘ chamber! m . Itiouspnr] yeiw? Mn&ltsn

cm h! rvali Vfcs k i li ii ..is 1

1

jiir 1

1

tf - e 1

1

kS I In

the > s b I l . lr_ i foi I In Lilli tL-Jilury. WMlif WMQCfl .tfH'lLi'hHf m h«mi\ *' hikin' n, rind Iik-hJ

^nwnnvmil. the nun i^LiMis'linl a resiuLn

lion hi% vtiri'Wfl nierrhanii.

A j ra beuni iabovejifr tyirv- I • |i*i h i a

v eii I iUjE u cajjm i 1

1

: w rU. 0 1

fi v I« r. i i

'« l b. i r

4aia\ aumnil wrei feiivnJ

J1

ill .V.,

I rtf , {f} i,' iki Si'*tu**s\ w

I'm k ihttl Hill bears his name, Jabd Tariq

| Mountain of Tariq i EbrullJi

Tn a so va®c Imii] t h eur Cidfl 1

1

1 r M 11 slems

inerwMined tht^ V isggotlu and r hear kim,

K> h ]v rfci’k T!n- i fi rb.1lan - ml in i

juilhed their

iciuimjc, link I on die peninsula, c i I > by I’itv.

unii] Wlthitt silt jlfears Spain wa.- Arab

In*32—exactly a iruninry after the ftoph-

i ! s death— the are lit Arab wave r r-t'-U'i I .«

raiding; party rearher 1 1 ’r iith-T>.deep to t fliner

dn-re 10 Ilf rujudsi-d h;. ( bark - M.irii*

Arab-roptrullrd Jlu-riii wj^ Inlet mv acted

bV bunds id' i I .

l

r k-S k. L 1 1 r iL‘

1

1

MosSefn Berbers f ram the

VLutrui juiian Sahant Dk1

Tnsxiurc al these "Muofc^1

ttfth Ikrtfo «md VndiK fla-

vors the! tullUFp rf Spoilt in

1 1 jt-. day

Drtvms through the

Ci Minify, one i> ^Lmck by

thu Arab names that |iep-

lier highway imip> E'tdma-

\ ljiI i Arab's FortJ T VlgecJras

(The Island), GuftrLik|U"t-

vtr (The Big Valttyi

“You will find more Than

-UJOSj Arabic mmi* still

i nnuiinrs in Spanish/’ t'i <*-

fes-.i>r Jo-4- I'tiiE-Andrade id

the l Hi verity <it Granadu1 1 lid me. u Rut then Stab

civilization flourished here

tnr neatly ft£Hi ytpn."

Spain guards of ihe

best Idumk an IlIen r u rr

.am where [n st/e tht! eiior

mous mosque 4 Cordubu

i 'erkscrevv miMUFet ri lln riling

dtf nl rub-century Haitijirrs, Et.iq, n-

siemblcsn dill idnniun ummi

loud Into spu'lm lMfiL mn-^pljuihed pittite with,

the sanu- tiled fquntiuiu and flott iitfiiu Vine-

on l- i>LJt- in Fer and Vick rs \n Vmh 1'nrml

in l himnscu.^ once totd me “Vi hen I toured

spaiiL 1 felt 3 could knock on -my door

Hut lIul1 Arab:.' legacy to Spain is hardly

confined to m v flh brick? .mil stone. Thruiaith-

i nit the pcnntMib I lound vignettes from I n-

VI 13- If i n Ejxti hi ii 1 1 my m M c

I

ich i k?

* MatneThn -rhpiEii: iii A frrm in E-urn tira

\i ini.v I him E- iv ringing lammlsi of love, Hnrk

3Uiishinv. and death, haunt Itie sonic? dial

ftmtnded me of the hiah-

Iniched sale of a mu^ziron a Moroccan minaret

TUe Jilt of Dairiascw

‘fee! iranspianieil io Tofe

da In the Atomic Ace,

\ acente Bemi r.mV ?word

Victory '-rill f|m.iFb“'hitj -J,Kcu

bullti^hlrr.-," lie exiiliiin?,

Mmn to mention tuuriH^

—

jnd, tail year, art urclet of

J , 60* I nr thf E‘ S, Codjtt

Guard A cademy"* Blond .lEid sand ;ti the

Plasm de lviro> in Seville

SpLflmudi driima. \r.d p

nariu ihe ^.Eivtige Intll h^:hi>

bravely, briefly—then rlie>

mi si uHotifnt sword- HOfr''

0/ff roar the

it i rv t 3 i.it Wii> once "Allah !

11

’Ediouph more candid

uliout it jj '« <:ent vc.ir^ 1 1j-

Hpiiniard iivoid> alltisiMn^

rn fn? Arab hern age1 Xin me'" Insisted one

ipage 45 I, I scjJLLTS: ill ":s5 nuik^ -.ecrind mil-. To

tin i ireut Mnstitn.1 in MWfn IVkLiv ir- wall^

eficloso iL caihedral, ^iill called by Iticcuig#

motion La Meirquila— T he MuSj |uc

In ri lifts like K' 0nU r Seville, ami (.aia-

i . i 1 1

1

1 mioareLs, now hump with beils, call

1' hnjttmns to prayer {

i I de r home h sti c lie dlit -

of Andaiu^tJi mrn llietr li.nk-., Arab style, tn

tbr nlMftlW streets. Thick duun? hung with

heavy Iron knockers in the -hapcnfii Fisald-

—

the huLfid m’ l-iii tarn* the iTniihiaV riaughter-

i|eiii:h|ful ^cepl ii m ( itirmati Perej, u youngv_TLiiuir fnjkvr ! m^t aluim tlte f’uesUt de

friiiiiete^ in EiraJiJfkL

H^hoiitil t fie shamed of this Vr.ih blood

tn my vein??' he itskrd. tapping ln L wr^t

Then wiih .i wink. wIl > no '-ei ret wl- \ndit-

lij^iiiii^ lut! ifinFL1 wih ho—mofi manti1 Ask

ally iriii fnjjn

High above the cil} of i ittnnda rwt the

crenel! ti Led tampHirts of the Alhambra [Ara-

>ii run The Red Umo, the pala- e oi BrtflhiJil

fur from hbr lipiritinil bnnie+ an Afrk elm A 1 • km i » . \ii-L-Ea rfannj- |imyei in Miipu

Ajlali. ,i 1 rndf: renter on ihr -mithr m nut at I he Satan n HI- \\\ chj i [e-- i tifl the sriiN

bakstl mu 1 1 im^qur mvt. k.n<k> -i nr.nu h of the N'ij(cr Rivet brujil ttiffiui i^r Ihe sprr^tt

nf l-bm Tin- ptepfe Hf M-di Erjukd uorl teihl with and Ar^stor r ratunr'

hetrsFC arloptim? fheir loilh in ibe ! K Lh i chtLitt hknm »i >m mv -ii- itepm^ t*' 1

4JTfiJ 1

.S'^ nn/ l/jr St rrrrnri

(Abu AhduJiabj, Spaing Iam Mr ion.di king.

I V'-n.’V i lintr ( heir way Through jl-. fuajiii m&\^unltn- and btbvmHhiiir halls* even noisy

hurdt- of c jurists hush in awe. In 4umplunu>callilirLlJibw wciveti I through iKn 1 rnrv^rl p |ji<-

ter arabesques, the ver> wails j-peuk—

“There

15 iif i tL-i inqiipror hui i Tr>d'

Far . Si ymfii Mir shrink ini? Moslem pa-

i lave around the city held off the growingChristian puivur Lo ibc north hut with the

marnape of Ferdinand and Isabella imiMim

powerful Aragon and Gas-

tski the days nf the Memoivetv Euimb-vrcd KinaJIv

BiMfjdiJ _-ur rendered thr

key? ill (Jratutda to their( '.iMiolir the

(."fwso and tin 1 bannered St

himes ueff $ li i •r 1 1 .diiive

tin Alhambra This lauie

year, M'yj, that f 'ulumhiis

hr.ivt'U tel mil t n i, l;iim

new horizons tor Sjirdm,

a weeping Boabflit sailed

iiwtiy frtim Lht Costu del

Sid is> \fra!EL

HU IMi EASSKDtbetorch that helped iq

light Kli ro [>c ' h DarkAsh-> die Arab- clipped in-

to lI long: and Jitful deep,

I N>m 'A li 1 1 li i Mi 1v n UW \\ifiViiiMa

are rubbing their eyes

Since World Wur IT, treed

a 1 from centuries of

alien rule, blessed with newj’j

i I revenue.-, and taimiw-

inu; bark from Western

and itl I he riazHlni; arrhl-

toettnfo of Cordoba1

* limit

Mtprfiir inglili mot1 HtlleiLt.vl Ihhcr vcsTi ci-

lian I -1 fuanri m rm.fi Sr rn Kuru|pr - InrtglMgfa elJIiI liteM-

lure . atieiic e and Lcchfmli*qy

Etui tEie Affth Empire*ETElI[£5| |fjfl hi Lhr Wri t WJIS

nip -pur the 1 uno-!T'. Mull

Ope Ofd the moitklll jite of p.Sic

tieruissjmir

14

let hnoloicy, l he Jongdivided Arab

|tuples aura in grope for unity

VtfAiia, the Arabs crI I it.—rediissutner SoCar it 1 ji

l

rely ,t fading it Beginning, a -|iird

one senses throughout ibe \nib World. I dis-

eu^cd it one evening with a Md cun frjfrud

"The days of the empires an i\vui" he toEd

mi- ' Bui -urvl> we \rahi will, Allah perrrut-

uilh. ihiijn-h nrur mnrt miller nor commonreligion ludiurc, and language

ri

Iml he recounted the story nhouL the -kep-

tic who taunted MohnrtStned about Lslarrt’s

prrjmjw nf refttirrectiuru "Whut possible

ptfwrr coil Id rai^e n man tn life again frorn

mm dud and bcrtfiea?'"

“That j^nver ivhicMrom i kiy. created hisn

in the first j.^Illcu/1

Lhc Prophet had an^w^rpdca[m!>

E.tkr U .inUMii 'tlWlent.s

Mip^li-n S| miM tn die MiddEe

I

jjL-M-i I 1 hi- advuncedknuu Ictlin iind k'.imiEu: *>i

lhc tiarf la abtuiKhtctl F%u>

Flic iFillthctice ttCin

vciir- of Alu»!?]p.:m rule ^ Lift

nrvive& in ific lui^imfitt'

fljtmf'ufii mtuit id today'-

Sji.iriish 11

j

a: belmi1

T Mm1 1

. I \i

ft -V

ft jpH JH

r f

MSt| J

. iAi

L V \44 .

Jh 1r

TVt'ki’ itcrui nl iikuatv. ,i m'.k-Li]».iciE !«: 41 Maarte^ mi;-! i Ii-i 1 1 : i ij«.- - 4

i '. in . n veluntetT cn.ll £|W';*yf to prove i\ta' natures Imuniy rusi hr a ^rmr

rM*t^(ieLiiifn \ hIih ^4 ilieir stBiiite mbit iviih wean —viwm rmw nr

LiMpked hiio dlshet Sikh ns turned eea-urchin imi left I

4 rm-n- front -.-,i

,iud vhf^re m Ikrnt- 1 mm I Ilf iv^nh'I- w n i k t;i'| ru riU'-=M 1 rl

bi-mJ* Sji,-. i|li“ jyikrrirt\VV feAn-ttnl 4US' hi vurvlviiir

Hv FUEl 1 GtBHONSl

Jhotogr:iph^ by DAVID HLSFR

Wl\ I.VNDi E

p nn nut rk^cr' i-hcml ai low lirltc. near ntjon mi

i tpjt-jTk M 1

1

r fi Lrt y m \tigu*T, witl irdn lhteah'nins: Wir aieewt

last civilized mvnl aliif I he rnd,-, l lien M-iH the leftovers away

willi (lie Iwj.iUtiFtft W-l- uvrr nh "ur uwnFur (he nrst two weeks, O' sok inhiihitanH uf n t2-arre islet

(above), ten mikb oJT RoiktumL Mill

e

1

1

; . M r Wtiuk! live qn the wild

(noth Thai we gathered for oqrsjelveji And. I promised* \v

v

wouldlive hash I Attended rn prove that a ffonrl-^fcberillg tribe—adult*

gjlf Imiangstefjs I u rthe* st r urn led

m

,m inbinr1 n»:k , nm hi n< j I milysurvive, bui even live Jikc etmnttui^ un the free food imture ufftri.

I I i.i v e bent stalking wild fddds for half a century. And have writ-

ton of them an my books* Slutting Hit; Wild A.\flam eu j. Stuikuiz ihr

ftt'itf’ -flyrti ^ruihpt .imi others I do it fur fun, iiurl akn E think, out

of some Inline! rnInx creatively and nondestnidively with nature

Wlienever J ait), I >h«irv m\ wditilori In wild fottdv with other 1*

During recent Mint Piers 1 have given tlu: hms amt s^i i I- uJ Ull-

Spirits dampenedby U>- tbt .1 i.c l

J

i> • r

aini .1 Tancnilvtd

J.wikh ritjhl ' s*uJp

she i^JTiiwiTitH tMrlist siorr bouadil

mtiii Mnrtietit

Liliv tllev *-t Jllcr.

SOTtl' III 4fl Up ! :iTTI|l

I iff™ daft uilit*-

-Itkc U-ytnr-u3<J

.i'inn; "iMirnl Ih^uv—It> ruft I In: tvenin^

tide Uj Li mother Uidr

t itUiLmcr t’liim:-.

( luiwrud Bound S^hnol an Hun-maiii- ld;md n]a survival

I'ulnin^ .sh p.ir! uf li rogucri Fda_\ rnUfM^ in sitlf -aifEciepi \hvr

iu.^trui lioii* each >i jilfsnt is marooned on a JtUlc until hub titi t Hunt]

wkh limited eqiiipnicnii Etrsd no food whatever u> live in u.tter de-

pendence mi nature for four da>^ I hi- program ttes madepmud ynuue Robinson I'nisoes

Ndw f H iiTii t'il Ui change scripts, from Crusue to the -Avis* FuetuK

Rubin <nu. ami i would hr tbr palr$ir I M u -iV. Freda, .ml 1 l>mE

jiM mw nur uu-n boys thrown ami gom\ but we have (sdEllent child

credit with iu:ui\|nu’cnt s. >n wt merely borrowed j f.tmilj Wc mire

Ni ky in &:cl Murk hi I ford, *s. nnd hr? younger brother, Jonathan.

1 l K fnf both lbase hm> Itaye hieeti on expeditions with its and sire

£k s 1

1

1 i 1 1 wl 1 1 1 - uk n ! kr; n h

i

ti 1

r - . The GEOGRAr H Li turnLshed its a graivn-

up I'uster son in ihe pti&m of p biographer iJnuiri Hiscr At ihe

minute, urecnlly fceliiuz Llir need for more fcminini- representuuont

iv e managed,. Thrmittb ihe good offices Of a ftieod, lo acquire tun

daughters, preltj 1 t year olds with [ircrelis^ I luivn lad uct'vmt? andcharming1 thmcmuhiie*;.

A

'5 THE BOAT melted away into the foe. 1 fell that challenging

bui |mvtmfo pitcus&nl appreht-nr-ion l alwJ$ s (tel yv Fieri T knoui l h lit l must adapt m ruilure, and do u nuw, or E wlII \io hungry .iv

t h l vc’ty Tsryi mten I In ottr sit uttan Lime aml e-ip ecial! \ i i k w; ut

h?r nii man's illnuer

l could ^rr heds of blue mtisseU fMytihi * rtluli.xt an the rucks at

waterline. The incoming tide won id i ikifi them tdalCCt^blo In anhou^anrtth^ n«m kiw ude veouliJ m ii come till midrtifthi. I ran across

ji miJTiiw neck. ii ihi 1 island and filled with The ctem

beds r.hat the t&lnnd‘> hr Jim Casionfhud jhtiWtt tw whciS

I

i

r a 1 1 1 « I

L

1

j 1

1

1 it s i mv we re --i i'l 1 1 hrt vita tr— * 1M

«

1 i n i

a

eid ki pitIjuiuh

Of didiriuu* jicjimrr- f ijyri .nv J-Jdirj a >_ 1 put the mm boy? to

dams un 1 1 e-ilUc-riN^ mussels* while ihfrtsl uf jj&umi'tl mur I'AmpinK

gestr over the jumble of seaside unintti: »J*i I pm her) our four sent* on

ore aMmridrlV ii‘V. level|

• I =m e

W it II tho I. ^ i rls. s [ seluff to find .-.-nme |ilufit food* to tin With our

clams i,md mtis^b The twirls WcJrc nut impressed with the <ccnery nf

Ri n k * -

1

11 1

1

e Island. iThjit is not Itsreji tjutne. w h ich I withhold ftii

iL~ own future prul^cHum.) ftodiyslun** is nothing but a rmpof spa

washed irrnnue turrnLinrtiiig u Imv crown of dnrk sprri^r lnst>: Its

highest pnirs if about 5* 1 fed shove ®B level When the ttiijfhty tide

. -i \ t, i n

i

m runs out. the sum? of the bbrnd almost dmdjfrs. to reveal

chore rocks pocket'd wtth mud flats and tiller pdols Hut Kucky-

stonc' . nom: LLpj^antttcc Indies its rmii fuln-u-

Hayberry (grw Jill about nijf tiunpeiLt Its tresh leaves :ire a fine

’iu'fIv in Oi'iLm with H"id\]inL, u ! they make a frafcranl. di ISdons tr-i

that - an perk up ,i nit-ul no end \ kj a hundred y.itd- around *hr

shore ive I artie irpon n wild jcurdert, Orach and sen Idite grew su low

m i the hftftch thm they would be lapped l i v |he highest tides Both

plants are relieves of rpimnJi and chard Orach can hr eaten raw

in - a I ltd - ^r conked ib ^iwns; *58 him 1 is he?.T when rinsed nf (is

saltiness and conked,

Ju-ii above these, in the write k tossed up by itarros, (^rws patch

of hwu'h pchi* ITn ri|«- |n n.s, ihcjr crowded pods borne an itirust-ujj

stnlfcs, seemed lu u>k to naLher thwn They Irxik ami u.-ie lake

•.iLa r.r WUP iKall *'Ul< i hM hi. 1 M I S.I y » p*>! . 3

•Utx

3 IJJ LiJilfe tj-.il • J . i

rtl the i jn

M'Eidily hi in 1i [it lii

Sim Ink -Md t

kpiihriE ii 1

1

-I tl^

miuutr* k vuftKWta

,rj\ I in* i iihhorsF-

seree ?in ji bed vt

I^iKiu’-hni miIM

icrF^i- n --

®S**'

I ®* ,Jp* ^ 1* I (L, l A

. i**- ..

if'

-J ^.. - '.

.

•*>

k • i• i • xli.iii yH+u i iKin^ih. iln .iL-ihi.i ! v .

i minineophytes :hiii -^3X13^1" rsjluru’> luM-rr blillriU i-

lo rourS fl 1 m:- 1

1

—-rir WUfJ# Three i^kuid rriilile* Mifely

enjM^i it -i .l -lilted j^RSWoit 'toil Jcfti. irh-^t t^inkr

iUiiti lip:- ciin .1 iil.nl vi Le.4 I!i df Cuoked uft'i'ii.-

btnrh pm* 1 middle Icfti fielirmu* -m.illrr muiins irt

jrAfdcn pi - n.imi plum -1 ro*v I ip bottom leftl, :Jn

ftuil of kite wiEri ranr* wlibt Ti may be Killed with

rp-^jberric’ or crww:*-rt wliJi

Iil: ind lErnuri 1 « - hmu- ftf L'or..iiimii. '.mi

Jopirp !:W[thV) enjoy* 9 ht*nrly =U-iv of direr!

iriiinw. atprch> “i-Littnil htjiris, inwni, .mri bflvbern, Wnf

'“Anil lit lmjEil Eiiri-*" nhtf tribbunn,

LIimnilT nr |H iji, .« iniki •

PTfip H If“U IT J

ikui kfth li I id C'dri ; ''.]uir[

frWwnj lli’lF 'iittt In-r pik^

of -.tranrl whfAt, wlliinC

1 tried irratns. nidi, br butted

li kr wild ri I! f1rtlii i *-#r *iHla 1

51

'*1*4 L€"|P-”wl*

C j-nnvcnciTi cattail

jrzLti-^ as the “uifitr

murkn "f I hi: sw.impsLT

-n>- lilt Luilhiir ] !-

tiJijMijtti spike:- mtilijc .1

Lust} n miked lit EjiI vIl*;

its poJlrn, pAucakrHour: iu mi lEsti i.

a iiu'cliy|

> Jiiii

vuh>ii||ilt ;Lv peeled

"I^lk. 11 IrkMl 'in ’hi

unlike rurumbirr"

S2

uridfcr&fre garden pujL% though, bfcinu buy. rhe% irt milinu> In siwtL

Jitj 1 lime we luil

Ars'ioriL- till grew -Nil snnlhcr fo-.id plnnt r.s r<n:kul .1 1 m- in-

in1

sr <rf thu mustard family that h;L^ ii nmM flavor of hmsi radish amErldirfnii- ]n salads nr fir a parnijh. Nearby we found i wild "nr-

tfhartT ihjurtihfcniff -a paid? ol wiki TQttf tliul bf&ppd applc-flavorer)

Wp* ii> birge p[um£ Filling she wluile clniHnp. red-t*^bcrr>'canes (R itbus s£ri%mi&3) bore nu?^ of befife ju.-t a. imifig in Pi

prime ripeness.

MV ELATION (trnpcfrri by the Fraction of t

h

l gfrb 1

iiffrrnl ihcm a laife i»;

-

rai.h fntxJ H'l- fttubtf First HorrowedDmighter writikEi'd biftr pretty tttfi® at an afadi leaf.

,lOb h no**hc intruded me. "tU.jtV ,1 \unr"

Neither s^arl would qtau anyth inn not even i.himc delicious red

raspberries They were willing enough to help me giiiher. hut they

mftde U n M 1 r hnj 1 1 |& k'am to rev n j 2 iiir :ltj v e Iljngt Eadfcj T iitic SecondBorrowed Daughter rrju bed for a h ;tf <ir fruit -hi LL>kcii, \ this Lite

rijrhl plunit 13”

"T lii-uch her unwllTingneta tu lujini I ruubled mL1. I could ami ijiiLsr-

rrl with her caution. My rule is: AVver Mflcgrry wiid pfmi wr freofritar

far ftwd UftliS ytm hfi‘i r itt* tilrjitnf il tfurf tolrtti; f! to ftf Vtfd'fiiV B).

strktly adhering- 10 this, 1 have never imbofifri myself or anyoneI-« 1 !i:t\e heart! many rotes of thumb for *cpu ruling edible wild

things Item - one* They are all ti> untruntwortltv the

dungctous folk notion 1 h til .or. w ild mushroom boiled with a >ikrr

rolls b >skfe rn no if the coin daes n-'T htp,i~Htn

Rowk did J fir-.t ih-u-rmine iJuil certain \tiEd foodsw erliidi "!

dkiaiT Primitive man rife red wliai edible )n hib envinm-mtmL mrj this know led iw k,i- not beep !"•' Ihough. nnnl rL-cepib,

it has re in ante' I well hidden. I have merely lieeii redbcoverfhi! i\.

Von don’t have to be ll jmnriuutc bhdop.st to ^Lihur wild t I Theaverage person an learn to nerog ru*e ith re Mainly any one edible

wild plant nr erratitre an five mfimii jl lien hi- c;ni s.n't h e.it thu!

tmr f{md \ fev\ ikimt such levins, :nk mi every w^ilk <ir lirivetn

she country he will sfte rnorifr wiEri food tbiin ht cj.n eal,

1 list my lemony were obviously noi untilng lu ihc idth. I saw1 rouble looming. \\ atrl foods are not for everybody, ami I began tori

, ;n- ro> friend had not fully exphianvil !Ihj simatiDn to the girl* AsT later leneiiefL lbny had i^fireiwd reservalifirLs abriiji wild foodsIndore ^inoant: on iiuE. their |>LiTKrtls were iNigur fur them t& have tin

expLTriiMi^ aod had promised new bicycles if ilit-y « uET:| j]£LiHj the trip

uur itimier wtL> iutiill> from the wild: steanied touss^t^ b;i\“hem

lea, boded peas, a >. it mr kc [ ‘aini-orHch salad, arid frush raipbcrrie?.

Dayicf. JojhAv , VmdAt und I fotind fi wry ^iisfying.

Tvc dined on a Sot woor r ra -nrue pretty fancy re^taiJranE^.’'

David pmiirnirjued

Mark, wiio has trouble with steamed mussel^ tried make .1

ratfll on the vegetables und fruit, ami rm:m| i: w-i ilinn an epicure1

*

eMjpeTiepte '['he girl would v ;

l

1 aiiiduni; except one spocmlul m ihe

ffliniUar-UvokiTiu pen- TEaej InifJ nn arntc- attack of honu'Rckne:.>

ratireEl to ihrir b:m . .iftd had .1 goorj 11". [ turn'd I gluumy and the

u'eather turned udoumbr \\ hut wirh the foif 21111J drijezlr the best wrcuts III do Wri.1

? tu cniwl into utir sleiejiiiut Imc.-

We aroao to more fop and nun. 1 he .jirf* were Pfd-cved ffom cry

inu ilietnselves to deup. Murk had found his veuetari.m -ium^r ItifiiF

eL|titth-"

4 -o^i, I kiy uw:i_ke hour- ih in (ting of sleak dmnci ^,

1

he

Itdel > Jim iv. ii.nl ruuirlit a deprraslciri frwrt the Kiris amt srtid hr

frit, skk during the night frVtdff, David. and E wgif tJarl Wehad Hteamed flnm I • ; i Iirny ten, nrid It* pi flam trectitr lnr hrua.kf.li:-'

Thr urs rt - apmii. but fbc rea "t u> filled up tm bet food rtJH)

felt bettor

We fi^Iu'il ihe liiuh tide frnm u ic*yp foreshore. usiim mt k $jud|s

for Ijait, and Jem ny caught the tmfy fis.1i. a gruesome sect sawn (Ht'mi-

tnpt f s touJ T h es c rent re looks|hj lw'j non ^ 1 iut isn't \V hr ti

wc H tamed it* however, we found the flitch idmutet ffllid with pain

dte^crsuvliiii; worms, e£gS* Encysted Ihlisgt

11Hnw „i

I

h ^ li! j nke parasflle Jojrniy asked

liven 1 gulped We threw tli'e riddled carcass ttNiy. More cLoni^

tmisScK vegetables and fruit for lunch

An fatapi I h.^vr Sonic m^nu^aed, fa a body "i laitd sAtiwund

It. the need for - ho [ 1 hail Irrutigtfl Alf'nfs t uni-u 1

,.lii. I r-o\v

( wuhour spirit* si* low* 1 decided it was time tu us? it els weltmm:.s fart. Mark, David, and l paddled <««a nearby Met, arid tiling im-

mediately begjtn eii k)k up. The ikydmruL the sea calmed, and the

new island proved fxiunrdijl

\\\' finiml [rt'Lt-eii 1 - w p liad rol -L-rn nn Ri" kystctTit1 In a T-vabird

m-amS area* whet® min no I uni muife the soil very fetlflc% we tfatfteon

SujuirLariE rdteeji -urttfl a duLijily arid plant with a Irmun fLavcir [e

i% tin* e^-L'iiUa] Uaurcdiunt uf a pltrmtt .s soup, -md iV treat raw in

salid- or eaten plain with ^afoud*.

For tuni li we Mi^i munched mir way ground the island \\ hoi?

2 inli'Ti- "l : ipe wild Jop'-clu rrii - pfnlile ruled ' >n a -nil d t- WedU?ill

- -^uirlrvvhu-e •-

1

1

• Fit •• fim be hop] nil bi r " 11

1 it- - s L /

1

1 pir/t"-

;in r L mixed into Blind* In ah fllumdorK^ Lr)th--ceMur>j ejimm ur

fatmd a marsh with -i great plenty uf ijftltASt I hr bust: of the t ;i:

tail plant, [wlvd down to a tender whitfr heart J§ afwe?!,.mitritLou^.

> tan.'by veyetahli wlieu Lotikful hen eaten mw, ii Si.i> a d-elirait

njt umber fiavor

The few pate I nf sol! jirouml the marsh were reddlci toed with

mmintnio c ranti-errlcs Ttifa nnrthcrn frutl. w IiOm- berries an: so add

thev are ban 1 1 v i-i IU >lc- raw. can he cnokfid w ilh to make n I

er’ijptwrry -mice II! tor any Tlinhktfg|PFin« table

WHEN WK kETIRKED ti- camp with "Hi im ported vianib,

! decided the lime Httil -il^‘ come En break cml tiome supple-

rntmlory Jh^redieoU t-« tempt our two marvine littfadaug^t«rs

lu eat Since wt were ijni ai i tmipLiim a.a net tfnvivdi cxpcrimenL I

hud brought a loos, besittes fresh waSer, n fe^ basic firanEv' to IcTid

i

I

i .! ris1

;t i

a

In nur ruisim- ronluu^ od. .HU^ar, [KiWlkLr--.l niilk.

fiiiur hn bt used m\\ rut batler-

Freda ;t.nt3 1 went hi work pi^pMlihf ft dltuttr of fifed battered

clan^-p ii iokdJy ill Ife rent Ktistalory exf^rienre from iteamed ' lams.

With tlteju we lutrf bcided cattail hearts, boiled psfl^ arid a tasrty

salad of sully Klasswrmi mul ^i>Lir sbe^p jorttk perfectly d.re^£d 4iirli

n little oil We hnd r.w n dv^-en-—fre^h taspWrb, *mA ripe tof?c

hsf}* briiled With Liiair. tfouhehernes, and rr;m l« rrh^

This triumph WAS w Listed on tte ” Lr ls_ They still

milled rn Ukstt tuivlhlnp

"Hut we cuuld bt poisoned!* fine cried Her fricntl apulus'ized, "I

just ne ver 1 1 ftVC ti bed veptab les' 1

They rett&iiier] r.. thm tent for urn H her ity .md the ky, ,:is If in

sym|J.itln . bi'giir drippii^ ram. Hit rest of u- were enjimiis the

(CtrfEibfJjffrf OJI flu fit *S)

To v, billlr «L >

i

m k *

,

nt otf ji b

vectimi uf cotteiil

-:.al.y lop .

1 bee

i

to reVent Lb Curt, OC

hfc*:ir' raiiidli*i Murk.amsilc“. >l bite tn u .

Li muy br bdkdm r«Kis4ed

J[i

B * L

£-

,#0T "*L

tfiFth Ude'i si^rutfiiEV,

iviMicfi the

rink?’ -cl- in upiicf

limit tir i hi-

lur'|Ln:-t >£iNH'iTluf

•.jiiiiuu-h formers

|imbr fwmb fur .1

sniirk, pflfRiijis ^

>ll.ii[ ?u« li a= ihf

cowmen titHrt hern

U'hi+lfc 1 above! 1

T -V** jj-"

fc

1 JP \W

f lTr h

t Jj

Mursel of tftkbtr

rJn u_- ••11 a btd •!

.iL.irii Uaf ninSr- WhenlTt-.h llu« rulin'* I

like ;i r+Hedrubhttr biiitil " i iTrr4.

]| ran hr flieU'd lor

u rich, *wm flavor

yi

;I f 'T'Jl Dm^lLk£mL i .

L*

!

Si

t,.illnoini' cjS414.-5- (rum thv mi.

aulbipf A runwivii bl peipn

u.L urchin Inilra .1 ml L urn.- n inn

iL ImjblJy so iL- F^nrl uiritv; rk

mu prink Iim fmnK jrann*

it *ij.K'n kV<i t K > i klilfr h.i ml ]*.'.

The expire- 1 r*n\ ’hufK^I [like u ftvn-

^hfiinlrtfl - 1 *1.1, bp H i n i ptir j out

41 n I eaten mvf or -LimfnciE on a f)cil

of Foduuwd inn j -.cl V fi I on mH.-M1

]

kflL- *ri W lit:n LTHikrrj, iJu- new

.1 :c .t "riillirr 1

1

hr wftinbbti ru(L5."

C'lirrisht’rl ci$ fidiuiry in

Vkditerpasjeiiri .indSuulli -\merkan

chi! Ulrica. M ji-ur tiin r< <r .1

plrnTiful supply cnl dll — hi Kiinur]1.

-iLtkplLL- mnm^ionl nftefl I a- knit:

5 Ti f« nicer* ilrr:l-

:

.ml I limuLH

Sra rwl^d. .skill 1 i

thr imrmnnn musliui J

mM* a Sprightly

i.mijt remisfei rnt

nf iruId kir*ufiidhh

m -.JaiK siiiirEivli foti,

mil; mu in

mm t H iLU

Oil'll. 1 1 . 1 1 i 's-- 'ill 17s I

reLalive >! bpmaeh,

u.dik it> Elfisrjs kdVri-

1 o iiLni arid uHike- !

\i [p>tiLbEci an;! mnku.-

4 hjWld> ^fl-U'k I LN

nibble raw

food, hni 1 hi* i^rii' unbapj^rvess depressed ti* AA Wf a(l\, WC COLlId

hear them ^:«bbiri(E about home and mother. mad wt l> > ideri i hr

must lif ftturnd to nuUi'mil Isosum- ii> sOuq as* ptiss-iblu

The m**t rnutmttiLX roy Friend Bill MsrcFee "i Vis^bavwi Island

1 amu h> in his I hjjii^ whrli- Siaulin^ lit-s |i jh-s-iei pots. Hu 14s l-H 811

t.iU.L- i hf idris bumi . ttul ihn chimb* red Ini o hi - 1 nif! n> i» 'c.ipiiu

> 1 fate worn® than death.

T vpcTit ulonji, and Rill ran mu ovur Em I form: an l i -lam J A ( mtv. .ird

Hound '-I fiii' ii. v.'

11.’

1 l iv nuri’il hvi 1 ^ 1 1- n 1 1 *

1 1

1

1: 1

-

ri ir 1 i ir l-\| irdi

-

t'mn oiv- adult and one youiiizsU'r Sura Ru> . whu has hud « >m wardHound training, .11 11

1 Chari lr VVUIuui'r. (hr \i-year^ld stm of the

1 hooTs riirecior r leaped at thu kli.iELi'c Churl ie. a wjhlrinod lii-

Hui-ibc-E. Irnushl akin^ his lb him: near and a IRtle Outboard motor-

boat* |irnmiAEii4 in rditve the ftdi fatrunr

That evening on Kork^tune we hmlt a campfire out mti the rorfe?,

With if ii" -u.i around us, and laid p La rib for wild-food banquet:- to

cokne. When one lives cm iminna from heaven* ft should always com*In csiJMiA \ »i ri L“tii?^ and we were itutiin^ a IjLi tired cmis*£j3 mudclams, So thsu nSjtht dim hr. Murk. m>l [ putt-piii Eve I mil to 4&pt£Wider r " r a ji rv lifter hsh Vlnmbt inmiuiLiaifly Al.uk i attain .1 tbri-L*-

fool *hark t the lurid called $pftiy douhrii (Sqnalnn arnnlhiasi, Thai

turned into ,i whipping snapping cuf when in the boat Ntil many[» K(j|f know thai duufi^h i* reailx jim ul i-_i 11114 Ur -i m Murk- 1 ,n, h

into a preai pile of steaks, ready for breakfast.

A 1n I* tide w-tx: *Sue ME1 M a.m , . uml we ilambereil -ol on Ihu

Rjrk >* reef to da some amar fceLin5^ 04 ibt- h E 1 lj h r ^ .1 r 1 1 II , 1 1 1 u 1 1 1-

.

.1- well as pftjk to cntitnfn onr catch A nighUtme tow tide LLnc-n\[ers

niiiny lasritiathiiE tl b-Fornu- ^feiL anrv Httft p;u11s rhurt iL:rd idlur

iiark P so malty -ull l realiires r^rnain on thu rock* insEi ad mf hiding in

- ciu k? ur I't'Ert.stin^ into deeper water .1- they numialK do during .1

ilavlime low litEe We uoUei'ied Thum by the pailful. Especially com-nmn rnirlhurri whtlks ami jmiiiJi i tub*, hnmi -h.dluw vvaOrr wr uio-

jurt 4- | line kfd .'ti'iti -.s i- urchins

llfP Into iletpln^ bl0T$ and ^tepi nil thu 'un wasHll hiuh. For breitltfusl we fi-rrtL I in ^lityit sltaks—

m

dulii.iini-- to

-J k tut .«s bu ore ihi h Ft 1 r lunch I opened thu se n un. hi ns nn rj 3 1 1 1 e 1 • [

then 'he be-' I h4devcrse<rn+ e*ch shell half filled well ihu heaatiful

orani?e uie that rivaL- ihu finest rav 1:13s W'k fnEuht O-d no

Ufc-tinji H^-mn ,ind dedi'tod chatm M-ji un hin roe hiid liiLsr flavEir-.

yi'iu lastt thuEii ijiie alLur aliulhi'f

"’''fie tirsl lu*te is snity,' 1 i lci.reed T and t\w nmup , t:u rjmsl.

""The second ts definitely sweet^ Ihivid dedtied

”The third is Idtu lobsters,M Mark ^anl

h \n, crab." i 'nitrlic objected.

Freda ttrbllratfrfiiJV\ cH, definfteb flirltfish

"

The fourth flnvcrr. the .Lt rename, b the une^R'cted of nil.

Sara had the answer on the tip of her In muni, *\K hy B ath

s ju-l like 11

fine ripe can r a Loupe'"

When r ooked, sen-uruhin roe Ip&Cs alt these ^Lirpnriniz Ihivfirs ard'

. fc - 1 much Ii k 1 ^crarrtblrd ejep-, \ ui that is dso t^Kid we niqjje

sea-urchin frftMrSt fried scs un-ljin. and witli the , t-=^i -1 ,itis v of ppw-ilerud milk, ujnjR.fi iji >lew

TiiaE afternoon Sura and Freda giitherod a pail of na>pl jcftaes. T

mmiu siii itJ stmprand the yoimgpr boy wenl fishing flnd boati il

MOtbcr -hrLrk Dinner wi*$ well in li.nn l We rill the white Tnertl fif

tin 1 dug&sh into diiers, baiiemh md frii^i lIiuiti In .^Mirnn m my

vumrl «Uip b I Ur inf lu did A -alitil, 'U i fi L'.LE Util Muirl-,

and slewed fruit—fajpbcrrtvv pjKteebcmes, ftud rose hlpfe

The nighllitur tow tin ft: had >o t'a.< mated nuf 0fOup thin WE rose

til nicer m suiam nest morning. Since 0 wnuid arrive l minunii JhUt

than it hart ihe pr^Vloi» bight, we could tarty m our sleeping bajp

until hiNirK -i .1 ml Watckiiig mj youJig - mv I wan Eiuacbtsil lo swtheir reverence toward Ii\i fig III nidiitr'v wjv. Thmigh urchins*

nsusseU, and whdks sheered the hottum by the Lhoii^and^. the:

youngsters were careful to fukfi only whul w*; cues Id u>r md in

disturb the i if! I: ;fr tittle a- i)M*aH4e, When they turned over a im| k,

looking for < 15 lie v el1 placed K .^p M 1 .1 t lire iecmitip life oil- my that

eilst? Itttifrr every Istnind nn k could on tnidFuirtird Walking

along the upper -h Htf , the> were -artful ii> >ti?p noan- of tk5 pr.iy-.i.uin 1

1

1 .

1

j ii - tluil h j been feeding u -. >.q well

Ul \T MOkMXti David &aid, a bit longingly,.iLYou haven't

H forgotten, Euetl, that Oieri will be jninini; us day after Inmnr-

I row?“ Cfcfri Is I. s itvid'5 wlie 1 hail rrt f l

i

r u 1 1 1 u it. and I bad [das l -.

We would we I cun it her with i Wild party a'fcasii ul all ihc 1 1 ltI.i r

wild food* we (tad lrie<L Willi eight 1 onrKftsttUjrs ttt iet-d, tide 11 il-:ui'

I

starting ul once m 1 coIln 1 ii^rtfdiew*;

Since both low Tides now occurred in daylight, Churl te, David*

Freda, and l > huiiml so another lilEle a -Lind in ^-ar- Ii of edible

fttawefd- and iuUlnE 1 He I- uiu|i rd:hh kelp Ml'irp /,-r

- . til tthl- _l% .if J

mbit by the ton. Cart fully removing iJiejjriity holdfasts that eiuc horn l

the stotirtftdfr to XM rocks, vu- acquired a buihd of tomli.

I \\ .5- f L I !

1 hill rI

i . I " ^ f 'I : I I III '•

I Hill; -flVi 'Am i‘I

•

I

I

pare 11 llt feasi because irving- p< eat dulse nr kelp fresh from thi

waller h like chvwinu on a sailed mbber hand. When i-uu-ilned for

s'uur hour- lo two djiyi., tfeptift cling nn Ehf he at of the iu(i r 1 hey

become lender and delu i n 1 e

-

Hn ihr day of llir wild tor^i, E are^e alone at dawn to collect xht

sea creatures \ve would rtenl My nm-f ureent ami -nrpnd'u; 'i:i!fr

from the rtirsv wits for cbmis Despite this qtinntife of liu* ^hellfch

we fowl been eating, t-veryhinti -till cianinrird. for him- and mtwvclams I dug a surfeit of them, thru wt'iil on -,li iier tnu^Kw he k£ - 1 1 1

1

1 hiM li n. hin,-

£ 1 lie truest arrived in ihc early aJlernotm In-h.^rr hoal E Iwri

showed Shir ris:hE spirit from the stfirt I lu- li-.I^Tfriimn, Iviin UJiian..

hjLd nmiul tamri- taige jouul 1

! craEi> than lob-4efH in In- |mt-> Wbcri

hL 1 iLarted in throw thi' crab-, h.- k Chert had a>;ketl fuv (hum jl* In -

ciuiLriliuilnn 1 1 the wilddoud -u|ijiJ^.

The ureat fea^l lonk shape. Chfirtie aiid >Iark relumed from

fiahirtp wiih :i innsd rnich of Lie AMunric mack^iel uow-}hrm)

tin my opinion the fi&lti of ihw-se or almoit ;tn>- other

v airr.v and Freda contrived Swo pies fifom wild .jsotN^elierrie^

imd mountain ranberfie^, decmnsed with ripe i :i5|j|.' t.i. - .\!;l .lI'ut-

tttwui Wrr dn’iimL'd Ljp nvw dtsiin^ iiml thru 1 railed them Fioaily ai

1 :4rri lm

I

d 1 \i w I u 1 le fea_ -

1

nut imh » thif yck ks.

We Ah\ mill E0A, and Ait, until rtarknej^ rinsed sn. For hors

1 1 oeuvreis w'e had raw urchin roe and whelks boiled in seawater

Then rame .3 varieil H'alond (ikitter ^mrrjruz nuu ki-rel -n iM thut [

pjjlhrn-tlftii 1 lu 1

H\rithoul aflding any oil whalevtr \\\ pul 1 » a\

the s-iackt ui ma«. k^rel tovouslv* with slCiimed si^xuned

mussels, and mibif boiled wish bayhern IcJlVCI M. uceampanmutu! n’da had concocted a granrj <alad of nrach len\'e>, pla^swnrt, pun-

gent sea-rLicket leaves, sour sheep sortfiJ, cucutniher-fl^vorL ! I Ilmvi-s

II » ! -fc • 1 1 * * l-H 1

Mou nr .1111 1 riii 1hem t-..

ir a.- u\ in nihiihs

mw. moke a 1 jl 1 Lr-

ICTOptthg siiui.c- Vvllfti

fk-nrikird with sugar

v 1 r i N| * !" . iAnlL>

Buyberry leaves

lTl-. iiin - i hn -I t:iinii ,

l

_

in tipi.ihi r rahwida.

nr 1 hr

.-in hit " .uii .ii.' r . . 1

wid

5t |L ^JW L4i.. l|B J

rIH-

Jr4

"on. Wilderness

were Paradise enow!"

Turkish a delaoi inn» u

_ Iiih'ii | u t-i Iward, the-

i rkbritc i pussl1

' Arrival wllh

4 wild -nLurirLL--I.Hi rdl

'I %&ki' my srratr^t di4[£[hi

iv ‘1 In ti ruling wild !'4iudi. Iml I in

prrjuinmr I hum. ’ >a> Mi Liiliboftli.

whii imp'rnfcffl hi.-* Jir.vL ^ rih1

Tcdpr—u ha* kberry tmd hifkury-

iiut H.^nd^ I iki r when hr Wfes

.l > \vnJt iiSd Uifl all fit- r IflVJL'

Wile 4tLt! cCHChci' Freda* tit far

U' fi, srrves h*r *thofH*" ;

1i-Fli tu c u I iif rlrih-Atdrti

THE WENTJUtfl t tlLJU

K.lyi i ifc-iiPihm me on craukrtr'

Whelk hrti \*A m ^nwnirf

t.STHtt:?

Slimmed rtrtrfi

I mfi* tuilkil

Wilh biiytwhm Stravi'a

['

. < i i ! i i ^ L i I 1 1 Li i Lr i l l

Stirgutvftl -rj-ur> Ian roe

iiM PI iL' hut! -in- II

vjvCii- i"An lt>

Hulled Iv.'jrh pra*

I ini Liy iirh entert*

H'rr (a viliuf of -* Itt-cji fcurrfll.

vrii-

O

tji/Li': lu.tJF. Iihu4wirl-hk If u!

tiir /11 Fl , 4fUliKW<irE., 4Uni fJlTJ.ll hc:iri

i}K=-n.F.3rr?!

ttwiK hi|Fr tiuflsjd

ftith frtih npe mnpb^rtiro1

i iifn -rrnrd ifcfT? frtei

icirmshtd tv i r h rn>ph.

:ind mint k-iVei

m vflifcAGi

^LvbftiTTT-U,at LfH

'r nrhcr'i mJ hu MuSurSs .mil

4'i iLi |i j i iu .Ihiljr s:ir i Ft^b

irul 4:«|ilnin*. iirvif uf|£;ia fill

’.u I'r 1-fOtllliL w rfl. 1

1

j EM C I _: ihc fi.'.V

rwnwilpl Menii hrmiwhl a-

lijsijnr^ 1 ii* j*l11 1 1

1

u iltrtl'iil-.

Ilit ilin-'n u'tni Iliiiri

I

Vt-'il 12 Ihp

rJsiiji’it ie L^ lirrr «.S" ± ji

^

i ; i r i

J

-rr,rrrnctnuiH |’k with i iiLliut Ic-nyPS,

tad i • d .

Sera bide, anoH , i

tf-tadr rtf

I

jiIii c tsf

^|]irtu,i 3if mffJu- \i

?iirrnlf Ml JkftrJiMiin In

i

'1 naked Breens Theililhnf Iar% I ihik 1-

amr! drains It hi r- . I lire

(fjfces# satliTws*.

tali EFL'UJl-

y li£fc

44 p sorrel lembI fermtnv ilnA r«r Ui

4otifj£. scjIoq^s inS-ftds,

4ir bailed tireebt

of i'" bluet' l-^lI JlK ft iitti&ttia borralis}^ ami ihm hlius* uf sni>w-

while Mttciil heart. VIV rh l- ->l-i

I

Ihu wllti H Utile oQtbyl tiu virwar.

aiicc the *omd maktis vinegar ttangfess.i? . I'W dessert wl- laid fruiL

ruse hip* mu l'iI in huff, seeds r^ravccL, ravkttjy stuffed with

rljH1 n^pbeffws—fttlkvred by (he tttu glorious pies.

i 'in’ nmrtdtyu tin? ivlttjk crew went alter mtitv eii iho^.t sweetMkii kvR-l. reaving Fmia and mv alum un ihe iriund. When iJn

pushed i n Kk Iltlle Liutbuard boat, ;j hri^k brrt;ae iv.1.5 blowing1

1

1

1

"ii i till the sun was lihintiijs through .i (jasgt About 4S minute later

ihr wind -yrlrk’nh Increaied tn ^gfe fori v,, and tret la and 1 beganto bi btLirmml for fjur I jt mil -

I i-iL .>rnaJE hoiti would ni-vrr live

in iht&c ftifo

We were m uti ni\>nxkty for hours I walked ftr-umd tlir

iffiniid,Avt>rried]y nulijighnw liinh oil jferifie the waves were hrv.ikmi:

Suddenly. In early iifternmm, Jhe wind ivll The ^eas >tiN roared

aihure, inn i ln- inr u-rtif dead rjltti Then i hhi * eftuid niitcd down<m i^ I ran for t ximji, nod before J rrarhtfd il darkness mlled in

Freda wa* fraiiLuvilly aellme i!l ii-sx under die I Let We wem snrn

She xml, tighted ji ea.uitine kinii rn—and the rain poured drjivn Vh-

Jis^t sat tJwgb, Ltfayfog, for i tie better part of an hour." Vm I hefuing: nr are sJm.se voices nuMde^" I'teda asked

[ niMilv lore lhij dipper njf iliir \<n\ dor it svirmr > itii There -.e

nil 1 Lir LTiWv, sookitfti wel hul wrl! and happy.

^"U'o 1 enl some real m?uiitiui here/' ltin‘id >jiid h IbttKwdrtS hbjLrms i (]hiirfie'«: ntid Mark's shmddet^

Isy, I bey just i noli us through rJi ii whole ^rikt storm ,i> if

arm ally knew whuro I licy weir p^:

" Then teased"f J r urnrsc we knew, 1

’htfekl Jnnn.v

HVVe vvrt^ Innkinp for ]Li tie

i ir cit lh Led cm e- u?e remembered- \VV rotild keep un ii-htui? in a trove,

even through 111 luriii anr.r "

J

M// tri us lished E cau^bi | 'kilty. too.tlidn’L P ,T

S.ir,i , :.> rj uiiJi

Sfj.irkJi.uu ey i

j?

"Xu f<ne trrjejH hungry lohiaht^ David sapd I fr <)v hvtTed into ourhmtdv-and irvine pans ji ] ubCul of livery, ffluth-sirnie rnarkcrcl

Ai^ the we*i,h«f L"kan.'d T appetites fetunu-d I grilled ih^ i3.%b fiu

diEiiwr L and wc s.l! down Jo .i feii^E of i Lt LIveratiee,

llJ t uj happy,hfiarioLLS, even a hit tilly in due relief.

01 U Ah\ ENTl RL \\ VS i >\ KK lx?aiiT[ bark in Vino!haven and found motel n1mms WW reveled fur an Imyr or fu’-i in

tin! ivater, ei\jiw^d ^biunpoos, raii-i -. andeir.ih i tekhe^4fid thenw ent tip n resLiiurniit fur riniiser. No ohe B ft appeaierl T had th^rrfoped'.Troving for rtmoiiqiceej fotids.; stvte&l in our party ofritrred

I n fi I damsWe aroM- at 6 arn in i-ati.-h l lie ferry to Rock I. uni E' liiding: m

phiLKi m servi 1 W hirakfii^l at that hmir r we fEiceri the prospectnil In iNr-and’U liuUf fort\ diJt* without SCI much a cop uf hitv *

hern tm. Then, just llltuss the mad from the terry slip, J spatted agrtttt hedge ol wild rn?H- htj i« and rl| n.% red wild raspberries. Dur« rew -iiti|»l> walked over aj|d hruakljistcd off the lxtJS4i—

-

1while the"Mier I urr% p^w-iaur-^ gawked

\t 1 1 1 n i-i I tn Lhtb rliyttiin M the ttdci., I h i .luihnr und li < niryiiiru^n uat^enujl

sin the! 'lujTi.im ttii-y ffoired adth Jnnturc fi>T tu n wnl.^ MWc iictthrf hurmn I

amr ihan^t'd ’In iilanrl in iiny wny/' he ofipi^ “btii |Lvr<i uff ii - freely pfoenj urj i ln 1 1 miijs tiOfHc 1 1 Eii e i it ti e

1Is

- w la * frtJ Edu wit I never know wc were there

<)2

Ry HOWE I 1 WALKERi Mi ii«*

Yu li iii; hivers irafiirm thf isf Plicj-

ii> the id | 'Li n t of lOftmnce. ^kyscrapcti amtfretttavi may chancre Lhe fare of she ciiy, Ium

ii]iiaEj,(.t' itreet markets and affraftamale <eiiolt&

help keep ii die same ut boart

MV FFFT WERE S\.MB frwn w,\ik-

iri! .ilnmi I lit Seine in -t iwi wind, so

i weal int^ i hi hint m\ far fr<Mn I tie

s iver \i I he lilt ile next So mine, li larere

man was ^ euitniiLLj. ipto lia - suliji ^n.win

^You di> am! cure for the soup?" tie wail-

re^ o*k«i"It is iinj i hi- -inj|i

p

"s^aii I the man '"This

Cdlrf ^titTrjyis toy bmk.""Mure 111 ah Ihi; in Id.” remarked an elderly

woman from the bar “ft is youtf years.

“Paris also fee]> its ye lli'>.

dir w't^ii cm.

"li i> ntH w-lmi it u^crli to be. with these

-kyM-rapur- aid itifes ihtflfa I hr aid marktii- :d I hat icDite, no^ And“Maurii:d Chevaltar

is dta#"Rut hmv can mi chiirijiv Pe-m?"

rn=iEii If1 1 ihe wmilre-" “How ran anyone

change it? 1 hri

1; i r k when? T

i d .

i

> I a* a child Ii id- tw.utk m >i wit*with die -ait ii- p.fetluvivs the si me*

|tup pels.

Wiiai do you think. nmrL^ieor?"

I had to ftgref. For mo. !hiri> lias a masseequality of eternal vouth. * if perrriTii;t| ]iIim

-tin- ,on I heaiit? lha! tn* rernnined opjt.ug

during ngi Joitii reluEiop-Mp

A short niiddle-oped man + who proved to

he i primer, john-d mijt dib-cusnarL He tno

ujrreed and staled with (SaUk firnduy.."Tim-,

i loes n i 'i H lira pc

"

Ihu the wometn wouldn't in ii pn nt that,

could vou know, tvfthymtr head alwaysslui k i ts itn Ilikpnr f

r '

A victim 'tf whig, the ttanth call Fesprit

iff FtMalifT— retarded wii I thoughi all too

kite li f pramptin^ the beleaguered printer in

due a die* y ihm sjot1 - .vamethfeK JUtr ihi-

Puris, iff Jr'ifi ptSi . rrtfln i.'irrrj

i ir j

j

Vi i fms fhtrtflf— ia*tt tuirkx*

Tk «'n.i prM Mxj/eri,

J'jj f?nt ftrunsi

Tu *1 tmtj&uri fr mi'nr Fttris

B fl IParis ChangesPin iK'itruphs by GORDON W. GAHAN

Which, in dTn t, --i’. - ihk! Pari?- Im>

fiiih^cil hns not grmvn 1 h L n , hn* nut grown

f,ll and n ni,iij>ri tin? cunt

I -I.IJM 1,1 ’i’ ih*st n-M-i |il.ii i-> Ain ol limit: Iskt-

Van* in some ppjtiqfilar-—an imperial ly 1i-ini I-

some boakv^rd, an L^re pi mindly kvetj pfc^e

til|lurid and + a iiiiled w-:.\ marked stt I hi1 rml

with ji brout rider, u *plyl>h (Uinur.* at .1

-.Ji'w.ilfc t iilV1 rnn> hii.* -rt tins stUr fin -u

rtmm things ibni. Lire line in tile thin slu

[ouches ridsI people in the world If nut her

dnlta-5. I hen her I'uftJW If mil thal, her

pJiJ)o^D|>hy. Her nni:-h, Btft urban dr-sen

IJeinK $0 IwauMblJ, shu i- much loved, and

beinR much loved* shn is vnin and . JiltEi

Spoiled, but never dllJt

Breakfast Spir ed Wiih Apple Btond>

My rt^uLir I J-e^as was ulcmsi ths' pul In- 1

si'ntiment Lh tough u chy that i> at heart, a

number id -m.sll iqwjk niflei'iing alhu France

Mil im ;ii -a 1 life in Montmartre, ! wiir pleased

by the thought that this mn-nnir farming

humid-, -whIInwl-iI In- the r:\| iJJtettrig it>" a

, nitmr i^ij, -till retains ihi inibn ate ilmu-

"(111? re ui n village.

At 1 1 Lire St- L&zane* die mi Iway ?tnln-n

s«mng Normandy, I he men sidl drink their

morning coffee wjJh a small iil.i- r vi Norman1'.th'Ltdos, ii-r apple brandy \itd fa it nal true

Up,i4 around Care MuitlpariuLv'e the Bretdii

shups specitalfrfftjz: in rrfpfs fill one with

ra^morics of Britonyr

In winter Paris seems more intimate, irmre

pcT-i 1 nit I Br s i1 1 e -

.I h i- y w 1 1 1 tighl U p 1 \w K Lfl n I!

J’owi-r just fur you-

Truly* they will It costs £6# an hour, Ibr

price nf rite Huctririty and laboc plus 10 per-

rent You apply as the c icy Hall. tell them

what niaht and whin, and t'oiid.1

I hen- afr

:-n era l mommvnfa lit i hotiM-' from* im ludiu^

l h f t ' . Lt h ciirnl 1 if S- re Darm- Em ngine tfins n gw iih yidiif wife id La Tour d1

Argent, checking

ytmf watch, waving to Noire liarnr, uatL-hitig

u -1:1 IiJl'eiK' blu/L- info life, and remarkiiiL

t’a^LirilE^,d For mju. my dearA

‘W m u*

It’s one mom thing thautu me. makes PansLlie f 1 lost fiexsonai of cities

HV<i-u are iming hr write dmm wv1 Emails f'

,<

-stiil an 1 ih l tnend “If - been done, but ihc>

neve? net it right"

"Vui-. you ri'n-i ielt -dmut the rafis,' said

amnther “But there arc- at Iim-i ^,btKi! V-»u

had better dirk tn mim“Ctoliies id! niiMiin i irjtie P and 1 will

intriiducr my desiirner, ihe onh uni\

really, In the dty.'T

7 Vivi,' -I.11. u ,pnt - Xu, no my friend YtUi

mu-t dine :V I .e l < ram 1 1 \ v

U

1 1 1 r"

.T

a

"XiLpf^efiiiN r.imLi. The L hsamp- F.lyseeS'

Hal.me’ v !ii i LisL1 .

'

1

Ilsd/.M - liuus#-?

Yes, it U chnrming. ll small cotta uf. wcd ci1

1

1

between high apartment btfltr tings, with the

main entrance i m oiw and a rear

entfoqt l- r in an t1 nt 1 reh dj fit rent - 1 ret i Mu r’h

to Ualrac'Si ifdviinlftgi;:, hir \\r w.l- u-ualb in

debt: when his creditors came 0W way, he

went the other

The smaller of ihc iwo streetsi Rue Kerinn

sector a piece nf n prnviniial vllliigi- with it^

^[d-fitfliMPiwrl blmppKits. and cnhbJed mr-Imre \hap4-d tn drum water flown ihe cetiler

There iss in fact, a plaque thei'c, n i.u king what

wflt> Hit: bMijihLin between two valluge:- mvincorpqrnttid m the city ol I iu>

I later remarked Li a friend how much the

Sitili- lane hail pleased urn,

iJifl y> 1 1 i Jiutsu- a pisu-jW?1

" he asked

"The buuntarv Lnarkcf?7 '

+

Yt?J Thru plaque 1- nf q-ienal historic

importance. To rut:. That || where 1 first

kbsed st ptirlF"

HaDae wnuhl hmVe Iiki-d ihat He wfotc

tome uk'e tiring^ uLiout iht 1 ily

tCvntirtUtd tm fw i\t; 72

65

.

rT

ia'

V191

if taufJT? ,

'

\\

» - h M"U II

:=:s.?

:,n

- * <

*' 1

1 %/ V AilKBV’J uJfBlCUCW '

if.

rfS*. ***"» _j !n—ill . * l

/•V CtugM "' is?1*' 1

fj.'jiCI .

Nlr***^***>9™ Briftt :3

HIi^jirr

/ *Si, C^hix 1

JUG f,t.

, Jjpc 4* "!

i i ,1>E _“ FI . .-infrft# Marlin

L^ffw* SSoLuji&

nt Mi rurj’Tir

V V I*- "V - f

fl-r Mu.'. Tf i tPv |,r* .J - * l-«

/ ,-ivMMlU .I V--.

v CJ *^ *

Jtc#li

db

Wn^ibn

uejOOM

ftwA

Wrrni^TCT.

ParisAND ENVIRONS

I '

t-ft-ruir nuiir .i*. vt [L I I4E Ia4

h i e i n> mn i w,: U i i

' Piif is hd\ my I^Eurl/ Thu- chi M ri K iiq- v*.

jh the T Ot_h r'I’Litun,- ^ h:ii munj u \\ rik«. iuti.MH and htwkcberJ

•n “i^ltciT tfc-. Is In-r il?” mu'll thULuT 1 1 lil I il litlf -: i [trfl i—uver

bunidntf %'i- 1 tJwjs - frtuinm^ I lie j-fTettiop \A ilii- wiFiiiJ I hh-

\n ilc T 1 ii'mphf, n hi iii -1 Li- much a svmbi'S cjf Pan. 1

- ,i I h-e

Eiffel Tower, '|nrtn$ a. nuijr--iir huh fof mrliotniv fivefiuts

Tr^^iEte^hiiilfie nf iriQlii]mcnl> ,unt iii>l m_nii-Jiir1 ijtJii

U lure, miiJittwn Pftris rfullttumi; \%im tremi with*im[i1rr charms jsi-LrW'tiJifa cafes. Iu*3i lurk*, cipcti-utr iirnduci.1

iiand«t iwaitwy rjiHiHmu-i ;.i fbc Mrrl market on ihe Sdte -

kliibl* m HOlth—Biink. and Uouk>lkill* "ii U- Ijrft

I TfIJE J IT i PM iniJlLM L IIIDLII

fa*

SUE RaCHEA

,'1L>i"r FAUBOURG

ST MONO REauc

DE THLOI4PKE

L OP FRA

HftPRY S 9AR* A-la MAr.-LIlNE

NpH£ RICCI

tOLONNEVtMDDJJfpa^

P.^ODE LMLGHCOZ-ZE

placeDE”" I

rreRE>"

03 EUSQUFDE LOUQSC'R^ L!J , = r.U pftEiiRE.N' CL.UBS LA

COURS ALBERT I

THEATREFRANCES

PALAF5- ROV 4L?1 AC1 DL‘PA- At&WfM

1UEIJ.U<UV( rifjTT

°A4 *.IS DU LOU V PE

FirmLIOWEr1

FAUBOURG

ST GERMAIN £— '

' P>

1l -

MAPDLEON STOiyiB

I HOTEL CES IKVALUES)C HAh 1

11 Dl'MAflS

CKAPLIlE

ar. GERMAIN &E;5 PPF5

, Lt FLUFF * » r r i ;•

P-JC M BABU&MIMlLITAIRt LATIN QUARTER

DL L DDISON

ISPU

•3-Uf-uTI WilI

• iia"

— i ;

l J k

T *,

****-jZt -

-

PORTL5T. \

MONUMENT.Dt LA

R&FIJHUDUE

LE MARAIS

pue fH'A

COLQNKEDL JUlLLtT

-NlQ-RE DAME

5Tf tOUtS

REPUBLICA l«t

LA TOliRO-AHGENT^'*,

rlF*

!

i

H - i i ti truth an m:ean hu ^aic I, lhat J\o

line ran |ilimih Vnii maj >uiVc> i*7 stfrhtfc

uirl -1 u ~ nl.ie it; liut nonuttfri when pma^ vesu

riLke wiili yqut invi-Miec,ri»i"n- ihvn- vrfll

.ilwtty> hi- I anti} uni I tmirrifrkir-ed region- tn

depth*

It'* LI true. One >unny uftarnuon I bought

i mtiilII ciuhIIc and descended *)I « old stop*-"

$U5p$ Tint the < ;i1 : li i jm I . - ; i hityri n £lm f vavumsfilled in dtnulLh r s

i t-%> with the- -ktj J! - ,unl

. -Hvrli-d liuivi' n| -[\ imlliijR mip^- iiaihmdlivii hj^f f mjti furiosi .w-u --.-il tmiVr-

yui'th I'riphih ][ was likt* ivalkin^ tmide atfcuju Ic-t.iire pi >em

The Puri- iU'[ieJi- nre tiff rmin^t, for

ha the long linil turbulent history of the . jUv- r

there hilVfi bfrM compel Sirtjz reason? for peo-

ple tn in fit in the in \ Irtor Mulcu- her t i>i

L-a \fhrrtiinrx, ju:m Viiljean, 1> refuize mth t -eu tT.s The Caiacombs themselves wtire

.ili ,i5i- « if o

[

h<ml i o n - h i r l ] : Fit ci h Resi itjm. e

d u rin \n t lie Nftfi -mu ptttiun i'ui 3jh y j l net workol pneumatic tubes threaded under the cin

whtestek urgent tetter? from sender to receiver

isi £fc * duple uf hour- Bur of el II [he >ul 'ti-r-

r:niL^iU plitti's rely cht Canal St M.irtnn

belongs in ip\ vcr^mi oj Bum.This o!d bunfe wo> tnkrs an ttrie i-ntirsiv

iJii ifjjethrT . 1 - it ficiw> unrltvr ;oa*k1rn iecl,i *r oJ 1 hi? iiy 1 1 i . i -m a 1

1| fiin of

the v+t?l rtciivorL .a Euio|jl-iixs akmiji

whic h RTiiin, sucar. coni, amcnl. nnd ^eneriiJ

i hanrlifii? t:ii-vl- to |bc N^hsrrlttneis, Got*

many, Swi [Zetland, and throughput France

The b.iriiL' ifl/rc’rnif, which I boarded, wiis

on 4 Uii'itl run In carry laud man a depot to

a lure*? cuntfru* t i- m site MfcitftCO 1 -u MoEncwelcomed ::i c aimnriE and inttitabJttMl me In

i li l only other crew member, hi- gentle wife

Qndiuf rinsed mti d| a deep lock and. like

Jonah fit-trsn swallowed u) by the whale,w \l-

lIi"- "UE-ni b\ (In; hit* '’iJn-. 3-; mouth of .l tu until

From circular vent- overhead^ datilhrtg: tal-

ttinn* viI* sunlidir* thick and round a- ilh-

piKurs uf Noire Dame, penetrated ihe dunk

palace deft i Captain Iw Maine hushed Ihe

fiigniv tnr a :ew st-i < -uni- and we di in «• S to

the faint r-t h i» of water dripping -omcivhep"

ojf in the Si^um gltfmmHut mshwai'd iHtr.?e tin -k u> untkr S Jn

Flare ik k Bailie, then WO tittle reed inio

t hr day I it \w -r hi - hiirtl v 'tiefore t he l ai utl

joined die Seine. \ braeit1 ^tT the t\\Hin water

hmijgbt the sfaHifl df dead ftsh + and ] -raw a

few rd them flniitinc, bloated l>cllk-t Up* Badly polluted, t Iil^ Seine/

1

said Captain

F'llLtr* cil snnJiiujiii Imm ihe vlreef jibtfvi1 hniilir-

l'ji .i mlle-li.riy 1 utRPtf Il m.d M Marti it '-tn af

a wawwij *v*trrvi i Kill, makes, it pr&dbli lo imvrl

li\ harup- from Turij n> Ikrlln arid even tti'WEUsiiw

Into fihl l 1 nj 5 |>1T^r <OIH-r - lillTtlV J s l-Khtl Ml tllf

r tn-ichr I. lij I In a flofi'Hii "1 1 1 1 luv plied tin* v4n.1l

<nn.e Trui.-fo havr mlna'd inland water

i nmmKri pi HrVrfLhclesi-, fiver traffic keepe Pali'.

. ’0 criik1: ilp I he Seine, I he third 1m.4r.-it |mrt uf

t'l'imn iifrer ^-.stMiiip Marwilk and he Havre

nw wlu I t|tH jj

rVL I* jK 1 T|S :AV1- 1 . jL. #5

lJas t slac ks of bones, risiiors wundrr hy eariilJi"

Hull" IhroUidl I he Purl* 1 'ntacrrmRi?-. i MlOtlftif lime-

ntorLt’ <|ujtmc k l.ohJ fcciiiiiiis ul itUnt i-l\ niilliuti

1 K.’iJj lie ri'mmTcl from f rs> n-emetericsL

^foiinliiLi; the ftpera'^ i?le^af|l Kf« m li h1

Mhtbtjrr uf Cukurnl Dulwtl kwfrimrP ptn Hk stiff U^cketl Htpithlir^n IkianJ

: IUT bj 1 ij[ieJilH[S ru^ht irfVslh c. hjIjiKW title pilfeesj

7 A

L mJr '1

jf

I.Oh

E p* j

11

1

-1 m n r 1 1 i . I .1 fc- r-i'NL hr M.I 1 I iiiAc- !n ?

way i Sn rou 11 1 tare J^nip^rniL^t The nRtek

f HiUviU and subway tuition b iiuxl **t :i p?u-

^mliL En ll|hF,l9l- .iml IViris's md??-

inuihit -syt u-m fhc subway ']»<' ned ill

T ih fi'i% in lifLMf, Sunn a 1 45- mile network. Ati

rutile now untkt rerutnicuon tvJLE

HnK western nm.L eMurn suburbs*

Ti? Mnine, ani l J recalled that someone hadlaid me, mil wirliout a meitMire of rungKirr;!-

tioiii limi the rivur^ - inly percent water"Ccrliuiity the ennui's pul I tiled ioo t Lull tteSeine V worat These fish, they came iruni

farther tip the canal and when they swainintn the water of Ifie river—

/

hO?"Another Canal -erves ;tii ,i (itjdlWH) through

ifiLa cily's tusi liiiM^u-m nut skirt* Scrap-iron

dumps, jurtk heap?, foundries idu^> foitarks

And ml i-mvd ihe hanks.

I had a dose louk ni these inrlusirlal suburb* (Mir 'lay <m Mkht'l Bunnetalp

1

? hargy'

Not fur JiLg." hr *+Uil. tr? wr passed f-a

-

lorite ami more five t o r ies. '"‘The people work-ing there r an have 1 heir dinner imly when a

whistle blows or a hell lipgs No, nol for me,like 1 hr barite liFe/' lie - imTini u-i I 1i\

it mitkt ipt ijLfjJr, I learned it fmm myfather, ami hi- learned it from Ms father, 1

own this hunt I own m> life/1

Hieh Rent*. tubifiei Migration

1 think 1

1

1 it i most Parisian* h&vc a settsa ofawiimjf their Sive.% in \i dlt shii! hiL^ alwayssreim-rJ iidjpcrvtous to chatty—bill niin\

belkfvo ihiLi e vH d&y? ,trv Upon them, OneEerl'- :i cent nfustii J force tmsig r,w pull ibe

old Pari> apart,

i r 1 1 she amnia <*1 cotTer nul Gutdolse i lt-

Arettes lad tie the Air along a airpat near rlui

LdllVtt,* l stopped one raorMnfg to chat with:i -trees wfO|»r lit used ll twie briiona righi

out f 1 1 the Midrib' Ages"Where rlfijmj get the s wig^" l asked him.

"From ihe tree- ira the Tiiifmc^ (tarrieri^/1

hr s-airLwGne batch las-t* for three tidy*. Long-

er lb ilk some tbihgi liisl in Paris I < .iuli- front

l itni-m My fanuh {•* - ill there There es m.pl.ii i- for them lie nr because it b mntc imrf

tti r i e l- i Is ll Lf u I r f n r I h« b nial 1 man \ o 1 i vt“

3 wenL, tEien,, u> ihi Rur <fu (\i-rdinal Le-

nuiiiu 1 tn l lie Latin ynurtLir Lu see l^atiirl jtin-

f|UJL, an :.L--].Hi!tiu( editor of ll Parts new^| viper.

ify In- vji.iI 'Tim:? i> bsb| Ll?

link penplc -Ole butcher, baker, and grocer

There used (n be fuiir .gnierty id* ate right

ilti iLjJut hern, Nfjv, Eheri,h- niilv title '’lime

LhiiiH% h^ppcititn^ to the other Isttle places

where we el! m#U+ larejicl wrine—anythinj.“They’re all disappearing," he went on,

“bei E hr penpk wln/ve nlwav' IKvil in

ihi^ nei^hhurhima] cannot afford ihc rising

rfcnt-s rt-nls itml have iuj^e abuuE clou I lied

rhr imw M?ri GrociHAenic taaurfti "Tin.-

FrjWt'c I^Lul-t rtf |(w Afl- " SiTtf hIni ”ile Ac la &,llirihjilQir iic P, ith " ^lUy r^b-

in the past. dORen years, nml su I hey air movInp in a e in the suburb? And the Mtiull Tiops

lack inig i. ait1 rTpsifig and selling nut

.

tbryll be lorn down imd rg plated I • y dnr-

m ij i:- ani) n -uj n j\ a [ i j i m I » Jii’i

1

:- fi 1 1 .in u n

I

j rdy

iltlliTenl diinteje—for lhn-c who Work. in tbv

lifck ufflL-L1 linalfiilip nearby I'ml don't i i.Vli in

this ncighborboncL t"V>jf Uistr* triitr— tl is

-sari, sod."

Je i st> n nl- llfial consume item |y halt .1

mill'll monthly wajtcs Eire driving Parisian*

in 1 1 M- - uburli 1

?, ihr oorwnnmim ayleenjnsi >1

h\ the more fortunate continue* tei nave the

city a gill edge

Vnd there 1- nothing ijiute -= stylish us the

Pllice Veftdo fbl\ with -ome of the most ex-

peniivc: nhop&on earth. and 1 1 1 . u famous Inad5P elegant it ham plvtn ii word to the Lnuhi-h

IjtfigtiaftE -the Kit/

E flopped by mir dat and asked h> $te \l

Chink 1' tttu, wliuse lusher, Cv-ur, [HUtuled

I he hole I in tWSn MLonslrtirCfeirtcs warn hueheithcr.or Rue ( arnfjifcn.suic of the hole], whn h

is n complex nr three: building? brought to-

gether more or less- itrmtnd a fU'littJtt ful car-

ders After an HU-yard mtn ili along 4 in Wycarpeted cunidor, I etiisrnied in tin Cam Enin

lnliin ntlij -jhikc 1 o till1 hr.Jil

1. 10 Her

"Monsieur \i\\j. is slitting Just there." be

said, nm tiling Inward ll corner of the lobby h

lumud iiiji thul Mciti&ietir Rite has on nihre

hen-—nr anywhere ebtL He mum- the hulel

Short, least, with 1 ht^Mr-ropperi gm> hairuad

.1 sm&ti mustache, and returnU married , he

sec-ms much yoanpet Ifiart HOLWe are eerkmily nut the largest hotel in

the world"

lie totrl me '“Nor tlie tnuftt expeji-

a\ 1- Hut w L- flu believe in rthin 1 4 reyulfir

^all of 480 for u niusittmm Of HO guestv Wewont our eut:?L- tu fee] .it home.’ I hornktud

whose In 1me he was I hinting o i

Leamini^ v Fintr, K-ut Lust I net tffiljis

Sint:*1 tu fnuruhnc thrfi'-i.jUisrtiT-- i>( a fen-

UjE-^ lien, the Kkj has had only two < hrfs tk

i

• ij Tkt 1 ti li *1 iii 1 he wine reJLir.% toil.t\ i>

Maurice ( iu> ntT 7 Q p who tame to wnrk here- in

MtJ 4 i A remarkably s]jry man with 11 wide

#miIt* he Irrl rnr tJi rough hb uiveiiome dooiaiD

of 70 .00P Irtiltlus

mIn ihh rut1 tier;

1

-aid Maurice, *»nv tan

aJvLrEtys learn, and indeed one b. tu

tt-Eirn 0UC lie tl ashed lb ill wide >mih\ Ai

in'll i“- tu he bum with «h ij right tm

gnnd wide"

’Hits he proved with ,1 iviiu1 he tx lured tnr

rue ei( Jutidi, ii wt& Ki L^teptimnalh 5 tine

Horijeaux. Muntni-e 1 jju—

^

rnemnrnbli

year for Mauffcc Mnnlrh^1

. all ri m> paiair

Kvcii thmicb Paris tnidi^ob;ii rev-

epern'r for Uiinn* veiu-talilu, it b ai the ^w*tini*r on enthusiaMic ajivocate of uvanl-

lz.s oit-m Hie fictr < Ee inay no1

l a: a \ «uu 1

days as it was in the brave era of artist- like

I'ifussn Linfl M:uir?tr .inrl Braque, hut

li.i 1 Ji.l Kill tu 1 p 1 1 a DeafuxUEii* NuU1

There was u darbm event hiA fall .it Sin-

I

?| mt:i Shortly, after h opened its dnors-

elosetl for 14 mooths htnuinse of labor dis-

[ lutes— it -1 aeed the wiirtil \m niters nl ati

tiitramoitem bajfr^ A&rt with a score iis

t ri buu-ij I jc 1 the ore liestriiI tliid 1 1 3 -j1n-

rrcorders- Ptouipraph4tl I mu hui I kihun went

iu uike picture 4and he s^ji^

re mi- a vivid

acniTjnt ui tin' prurterling-

"Ir begirn witli dolustrs In jkcntfght /ebra-

4ifped cobUimes dandrm macliiue-iain

]'ire. or whul sounded like* it* Thca sdtifice

Tile n 1 birLVe5i + toms, and hells Then a lonj;

metal Hi i‘ rum E tie jis ihr drummer hil li l.uii-

-En-i“t ol .i In mi mim uni I the rlnnccr* hoppefl

and skipped.

it went nn for about twenty tdlWlteSr 'ttdlh

tiVii biu 1 1 unI-jhm ker> i-miltiug birtji-.

squiadji, and the ampi died beating ? f a humanheart Then iivhut son n dud 3 ike two sled

1'u ! -j

n;.- r.ihLtini: -ii 1 l> -a i .ami ihr

pltfter enitefl

Tveivuin 1 seemed >Esimicd. “]Tju3 -Eared

uf> 111 lb Lit new ci1

ili 11 u iiabucd by Mm re

Chugatl 'I he ia

oenfKtecr uvmr pi the stoue tn

a Lrttie velvet suit Someone yelled "BtnvoV

Sudttenly eveiyotiQ d^c n 1 ^hoyttlnc 'Bnii1

No!1

Lin- suiJiid was dining A man threw

down his pn^rnn.^bouiitic,i

//(flD7iW"There was ll iFty>hiiifed Lrentluman bc-

bmd me Aon set" be mllcd (o mo over iha

I I in, mow irailit imud we Cjirisi^ns are J ambonmu, Em 3 Nol ihe nm>ii E ean"il -land ihal

ceiling: Too twww^*uir

Alter 1 Eiu ufieraj. loiirists may uo to Ihe

Cafe tit F i bill ["aiibkinh ieltkmi do

Lhe.v e .d r. 1

1 tSu l Milrn to Boulevard ( #er

main, u here ihc pleasures r?f the p:\_-sing

rif nv rsMKh a re Main height aprr I|

• mIj an KnglisBmEui'^ honu 1 is bCaa-tle, ihrr

a rCirisi an A cafe is Eiis kounlry He bd 1 * me^- n

titjjsen of Lhe jilare. a partisan nf it- virtues*

a ptffiii ipuini ni r lie- live- n! mhur habnues

Some 1 Life - have shared in the hime i>f their

more ifilu^ rimj? citbe^pv Lu Kb in- hi hian I

aut.lmr \||n?it ( ’aimus mui mi.-:turui;LJist

{Cotrfkiiirrt itH ptfiy $3)

" nr !JV ftrfte f— What H ((SAW6; 1 a-it1 r

pfirovi ? r h r- rnlpr r«i aifl tv

h

rnv//f.rit I».

tii^itJiii; kiwiird. 4 <: jmJlc fl.ijtMr its a-tidljif

iif I hr NUftlai* ^i.nLhi:r i- ;>> rruajui' tuj ijilir: uf

wine- fur SjibJcr.

>

Siitnnms nottri A^vfr^tinih liLMrir^mri h^Mforth with Ghillii r.-lihL|urLU‘r uL Jft blslfo .yptcjji] l*:iiu

i fi ku

[

wrpiir ynuiifr wines., nril ;thk llranjinliij- EtetwreTI

fatten nlbtilr ii in h wmfilcwnteiv furr as bftsvi. threw, |tilr. L»r tr-mi-

fally, the Iffm" L

liij£ru1

‘4ferivetl from m word tlwu im-anl "j IeluI ukohof" m Ha kid dftw-mil wb* out* ajjfilccd to f htiiji pilj'ictb 1 1 i > f^nsme' biwrujses of poor quolhly

\ 1SSULLIANT yLTEEN ClVEIl OTHER CITIES.

f nlukihh t\inn < hni> rtill'tl /VJrM in VJ*. SINK

Totta ifjftnw I * miftirm r-taifurvi u jyrnr putf

tv f ht tori ut n ( to i p rvx k A t i thi S t' i pi f rtj a t

tin 4 hitlitw-ithufn'tl /Wiii* dr (htiittuf mij-artifif-t

,_~*3- *--v,v

I CHI hi .

1 it pfttulhl U t IL' Ei.-k- .1 iL r1 ' 1 l‘

fnivpr-iu nf Lflu t Ecqiuinrt jim! Snrinl

Science* The former University of JJads—

alwt !r.Ti4>wJti iJil- SAfbnfilir —

j

1 1

1

fills

tflOUs center i-l: |G-|irnjii^ from rcu'tlirvjJ

rimes Now ii hft> I*em divided into 1 i insti-

tusii-cif dh.jarr^iI EhitrtqthfiuJ Hit1 fnrtmEiuih

SfVtn a! in ific Latin (jualt?l

Miiv^prrxliii'^rf rcim'zLtimi: \ pnjftv^iT «>

law lectures hill- ii) foKciSflns vs.i mkro-

nhnfjc and ttverfafjul projector A ihird ni

i In- timvetsUy im-puLaLiiuj uf Ermi1 e r es-i i

U

1 -

iii lif ti < ii i i ipm ri 1

lJi3, 1 J! K5 slue I r : iL, .ire

ritniLleil The i f 1'•>6 h riots iri^rril wl i rr-

furnii a;- a lower ratio ot ntudrnfl-s !> prnlti-

mst-_ 1

1

lll univcNlv I Li-Si^r-L-:- 0kLieedkii$! a fiuti

refill still out*, chi= pirtiurr Hum-*

philosophers jean Paul Sarto Ltnd Simom: «te

Beauvoir who scat hered r herewm dny dur-

ing the oppressive yfc&rs uf Wrtrld War IL

Thiri r Lr,li Mitrn'-

|

diilusopbv, In fact, wav t"«^r-

Ululated in lively c.i/u luntTrsiitfoiis

Next door l" Le More on St (jerm&in is

les Ileus .\Liui>L>. named for two Chi nest1

stniues adnminc this nnetitar nrndtttvou* of

tin 1 inlrllLirtuai elite. A wicker chair a [ it cor-

ner table here is, still thr cipitviikm of from

ruttrccfilcf. An eruJIis parurl* of strollers,

beautiful ant] bestial. entertains you with

their dress—hot jiants, doling parity pedeuLLtit

!

lii p pants, fur hats, bright scarves, beards,

beads, bools sandal- Twu its r I - with stiver

sequitifi piUftH to their eyebrow - land lurie-

Limbed ntau the curb. Traffic slows around

them Thu gjrts tjtiwrc ;i Renault in t&vm oi a

slowl) trm-ing Porsche

CikxI Fedin^ dlfertd in Trash- fm Vnm\

Ernest Hemingway put plticEs js dllMfcnt

a> i

H

l K\U ami ILury’s Hat \m the ueeihdii.

Blit not even he ran the entire gjumjl < fine

jil the pace of two a day, he Tniiibl have

visited all the city's ndr-—hail fee taken

dfruii lr for the job Vet by the lime he finished,

come to think u£ ttT a lot of new ones Wouldhave opened

The rt’LiJ Hemingway country, however.

WAS in the Lid think district o| Mont par

nnsse Hr mud fits ImuL .! JUfoVcofrfr

jmmurE.di/ed La Glosciie drs Ulus, a cafe

du i bar I earlier been the favorite retreat of

Lenin and Trotsky in their Paris day?

At nearby loi * nii|Kiteru Htde pa-t mid

night,, -i m\m liu.sdL- thru ugh with a i aiiva. 1-

tnkii full m //mj.r

r/ TVffrwPW'j -iutiit over hi#

shoulder For a franc you have li copy of the

dteily retjuirtd reading im mnny AmtricaMin trance The personal ad section nutbicb

r he news eve n lime . V r u ni deni ilicd Fren c h

tnwritten uJwftyj- -.vems Ei> be rt^Uf^tinjt

afflumt |>atFiin- *if t.)u arts to jimvide bmi

ivit b food m i idcv—

z

ure * »f /Vi

/

j-j^ fc^ 1 ! av .tUJ!

Tic o&tLlfcins that the> should uoi. e.spm any-

Lhang bui guod Ending..- in rurum

The air of MAnl tNirnos^-e rjift-s ^ ftllcf) with

lIle- .iii.vift;- find gaiety of -Ludc-nl life

”!n America iIiLhi-k are ibririeiiL.' a voung•jjr K s;ks. "bur exionpk, li«re the enMinatliiEii

is wry importarii for ytmr Fair t kmiW. ibf I

ibiJn't [ii-u-.s ii \.iy\ ytiit And now I have had

In lake the wfifflk l’out -•<• iLgiun."

" Vcm should have F+etti li^rr sdr Kflstillf

I lay," a youuit riiun -ays.uAt midnight this

DjsncTaiid bandihenve-d up and 1^1 cverybudj

fL ¥ *

J

r

•M

l ' 1

JnI i /1l 0

||A ’

j

|q

m a r

m * i 19 -J 1B • 4

JB

11

„_B

|>| /* shtTol iH i 1 rT\l“

jl L ./—

in a procrasion around ihe square sun; mi:

\ i ] 1 I 1_^aiJ!_r Syn l-

„

p Wt *n fieri up nn sJhtf I)t' SL

Lotus pushinu the iTumbnnt.1 pktycr ih rough

the ill a ^bid^y cap! ittfUo ii'iikuk mthe muming. 1

Visn3 bus hern u.^d to student rmlks.. ?ont-

3Tiin> s*unt1 rrig*bttiniri^p.Jiii r \otre Diant amith e 1 Iniv l' r i ity tif l

J

itr 1^ th e So flu. * ratu — grev

up tosJctbiT in I he Middle Age* Thttfv is link

left ituil is rrmiuisLtTiL of ibe antique univer-

sity Except the name Latin Qumtefi ^uryiv-

sn.ti from the umr when enuries wen:- taught

m that iincienC longue The Quarter, though,

remain- tht Ly, mhi.hr heart dl Fan-'- reputJt-

lum ss a s*ai of kmtung:

> r 1

1

l 1 1 ti P I 'ii re vl I eurKto Deeper Irtiuble*

t met iwo bw studenti?- Kianch Bernhard

and Jacqtltr Portflj, while Wnlkliljt theft one

da y. They invited mfl t<* Franck -i

• irtmeni,

on tin- ground flntx of an uld t mi Id Lug in the

Rul ik> BijuLangers

"Young people u-dn> an- pretty niui h i hi

same everywhere/1

Franck said. ’'Tht ^ime

tusie?, Ebc same idea? .A lit 1 i r imfiiitirnt> per-

hu]n. that tftt work l fe no! us jjDod as we

would like il You see what L happening ru

Pari? Still, I never '.tar a hi I ivy anywhere

rise, I'atjh has everything I hope to practice

law hes !e after 3 finish my studies/'

It wa_i iii rS at nil tiir figure of ll radical who>ai upriOpite me .am I it was difikuh fur me to

tontclve of Hiofig day-, unl> four short U’.lu>

min, when many thousands of student s took

11 - the simis rn violent i[rninn*ri\irioi:- ilt.u

shook the entire iiutmii 1 hr trouble linri been

totukg for a 1 1 n gr tmn.r pbwtbfartiuli

-demm-erl frum Ebr fort 11 un hwhi r rdin liSkirj

in ftraru'c- was a huge <afe system, hurdly

tbanged since ^iipulcon’s time, wills anti

quilted curricula and opprevive cxatnhfiEi-

ibns. Alsu, the ghouls were terrfhft oyer-

srrTwderJ and lacked adequate farilitie?.

1 a early 1 %S ;t yini n g rrn h c , il. I laniet t nhn-

BCtlldit. I LL* L • J L1

1 J .L IlUIl- 1 I. I ijlUlLUU of .itUllclfcU

t hat seized Nun ter re, a suburban branch of

the Sirin mne '.hi May J- ihu pnlltv wolr

ordered mp break up a ’-Imleul meeting in the

Latin Quarter and the Srirbruint -^hus downflit i In- 1 1 r

-

p i I in 1 in ll - "mu years Hiotfl n--

iulLedr and. ap tlic tyiresi spread, the uuiver

aity systciti in Fnmcc cease rj u fundion.'

3 tim li ithoLi i Y3 u\ d i l’ ve were 1 I } si' enes s r i

Fans — borne ade^i tear gas, rock,’ and clulis,

wlih hhtc than l t000 eosiwlile^ Thett the

troisbEi- ilee-pened. furihrt' us tile wnrkirm

dtbsses joined thr dcnioUstniTiiiri i iiing their

I N'lihkli:

!

OlitwcigllBi t'dtt h iLh Ll t'l.-lu"

num oil die hr Si l -out- onbipbl^ a

ifury/rrPF, a ty pe ^ 0 r i Heall K rittiruih

r^|f! iiir N rMn ir Parts i Ln .iJnjii-- 1: dk'^iJ

Irom [be effect- ->i urban wnsitj^. hut

uri£h'i>- -h 1 i 1

1

pluck small fish from (he

murky river By thr --uniiy quay -' It1 fl i,

Fiiriii.m* ffciKC bathed, laundrrrr], and

tthu-pped hi ici'f/Kant- too. 'X<r tied lo

inrm dtlga an ih-r Widl The f aLlusiiral

of Notre Dame hium* on riniicli

E

hj teill;

fie de 3a Lite, where Pnns was bora- It)

L PtllLcrLEh- fliai

Naliiipal (l^graphic, July 1*17236

mvpa grievfcm,c& \i the end uf Hie mont.lt.

President Cburies He e j^ullc pledged erinra-

lit itin.3 and bridustrial reform

Hit University nf dlfttpijeitjed as anrntily,, tlEa'dlitFitlt/irff illf-fi ^'pitratr mij-

vennilii> sjjfowl nil iirtituid Greater Parris.

Each wcnu kl he ,

i raiu atiU' fidm i oi.v and t hr

student would have much more say in

in Im i hist fali vr mat I tins

Thf Gremdfc Agreement. pmtiusint: im-

11 r* \ mustit* In wanes arid hoilrs brought

pence !» Hot. fhu earlier cl1005. hadlasting effects upon ati France- It led to m aus-

terity program mid devaluation of ilie trmir

The Minbtryof Natimuibt Eduratinin recent-

ly i r«t

n

k}uced aaotbdT change which will|w r -

hni^ tniimmnc the French to read more.

Starting laM A i n 1 1. ihi- Mmutry is1

1 r 1 1 1 1 1 1,

l

1

I" m cry net* married cuitpk , free of charge

six volumes of Frem h rlftsskt. bandtometyboseri .inri bound in red

Lt> Mi$£raklfjk on yotir hnneynition?

I in lily’s you ail Invert and ihure Mietti 1 m

bt1 more of them In Park than anywhereri r«- never misersihte V motorbike screerhesto

a slop at a red light The- hehiieted rim er tilts

twickward, ihf errl riding behind him bends

ni tir In- i;uv. they ki-- I'hr hsjfii turns greca

Thi mihEorbtke races ^ti En the. m-vt uiier^c-

lion. I be best ovulation.

Mam of theStf irisi-pjrvifdi 1 pairs, btiWCrV*^

prefer l-i walk in ibe Luxembourg Gardensnfs a Stmdrtv oflrmnon, hnod in hand in Ifif

'Lmvhiar. Vnu It land > hildren there lint,

rUltnc 1 tonki v,-ailing luy Ixulta in lliv pool,

hurry ling excitedU to watt h .1 puppet ihtnv*

i hi- \\ !if Pari (

A rhi’LjlI ]? sneaking up I lutniracl Fill tier

C hmLmas to nuikc off with I

1

is bsm ox tny-s

"AMexli&ntPhf MrffP the children t,r\

I cry.

Tin; hrm turns Jiiut Ink a--£dliml_ WllI'mv! I '< w! t 1uLer^ ris i u mil

Artois und SlurniL^er^ KlJ|hl for StflhfttH

Viiolher scrap, i hi- one orr -j p- uiiewh.it

higher imliJ ir if not ajitok plane, b gain#

<m ju-i. In- miei i.l the end of i lie gardAR*, wttiri

am. artists' cutony i> SltilpitTins bu-

rcflucmry m survive. A live ^ae re estate qf

[lihvr* ju'i

e

t trees anrl stables spreads there,,

ai ! snni tip iht Ot^cmiiuri thitl t-omh XI VhcjEEin sn 1 hr Observatory wants morei’i i * ijn tor stiiTEiLzinp, and ihe artist* lvaui. in

si iu ICI their 'T.ahlus,

sr

Talk slender Andre Tondu invited rae into

his studio* otic of lb converted Imm ihe fnr-

mer stable.^ In 5 92& TnoduV' Bathers'” jobsed

tin Chester Dole tViIkeiion Me still pniru>

people hi IiH>k Eikr [wnpleb,Wh4t will you do if the Uh^emiiory ex*

pjjnfksri forces Ti^'ii out ^ I nsfceri He hiwpheri

his i hi n v,h>vuldm >i3i l turned hie palms upt j a tin- Ffiejh h ws) of *ay i n« HW h«j- kin>w

AVc him* rv er> Intention of ftgtitinifc E"

>tti ."lir saul \Ve nperubil iur .s ui -o Its at

the jiii hSii mi t;hl see vvha! a tragedy r wmiEd

lit1 to sacrifice I his ^evn oiisis

T h ae

I

Imr^ril to colktf 1 1 1M HX I signatures

oi their book of grievance In tnv brim re Mir

MinlrU-j of i ' u It Lij-itl AJFairs \ciuaJ I \ l toe'\

i*nf n*arh I iUXH inch Edina mine.

Tile art i st> ui Lhe Observatnrv -rand in I he

Wt|1liflng erpiini- psim 1i 'Till rl I hi 5(s iiillli ;n ivlurh

ritlhii! i Iwu'l iJibOvi Li am.- Iburfi ted h, Ik1

] mult:* the ^ i in 1 1 1 1> I * |ii:

iniin.r Iu E3ii> lihe K- -- 1

; nnnTC run nt ijli:

1

1£'•

! rn i hr iriirmil inrih

leat’bpv pn-iuir Uriillmii llie i ereinuiihit pomn uf the- hjwijil1e:eL pullet

Hor-cEleih ami litgjb fadirim run uric h> -j^l- At die LItjik \t> dc

PJtrii iJeftp. ^hl3:l fvent of ihv i acin^ (eawin, sucialitet d*chnn^ r™l-

mi!- Th«y lyitWr al l,imgchtini[» nne nf rwo r.f e r o irKr--i in I hi k

4ere park cnll^J Si«i-> de UmiSueaie QietUrta from arnund ihe warMhrinu; ihtir The-nujiihlji'eds to Pan?, a±mutol li> m U Frannh puna^

1

WHAPPKU IN MLP WYSTteKV, lhr City of Light

hot ra In rrrning;. .4 ginning hnleau*mou<:he vruisfm

with totintt* bear Pont dr l

r

Atma w on<r of Parut'n

.'ffi hriilgfin (tcnffir tfl« Seine. Tht basilica of SncnJ

Caeur til a atop the hilt of Montmartre*

Unmatched tradition of Parian lift, bill, silvtA,

only Hit diosks of the old mnstete iifi: left

wondering thr crooked Alleys rtf Monbamrtre,where Renoir, Ti luliuse'Lautrec

.LTrilln, and

Pkntto often livsH'l SLnrl worked They tre-

iiuunied tlu f.iiti jdotiii the narrow, wind fig

street* and the finer du Tertrc, which P withtLs tri-Lis. Wi*it Id stJ IE feok like a -Fiiici village

Hqti;irL: il ynu could keep nut ail ibr tourists

ii iif I iispirtng artists and \ hr forest nf lm-.-J:-

Llut nm >| I lit- link |il. n r

Kor devoid pilgrim'- l he bti_wsi attraction,

of Monfm.'irtiY is Sjurn: Coe Ur, the hulbotLB

white bj/.ilirji craw nine the bishu'.r Ijl] I sn

]J:irn- umJ viable f tilth almost itnywhtre in

the city ipneTerling From the haslioi^

mi ri-il dir y \ iii r®n look rtoWp into !he pro

l Line i

i

j £

j

j. 3 L .* of Pigalle* hotbed "i ^uifit-" of

l fie gayest and gaudier niazrh t tile in town

\\ Vi ere liLvc-siia 155.' Begins Viler Vlididghi

The Krem li |v, nrhiinl fur social iru'ention

and hty]t' ha> Luniril mierl yd anuflirr iftsii^

1 u 1 ion in tth idem We ? t em 1 allure t!ie >Jis

-

eothcqut. An early one—Whiskey it Ckigp

—

began in as a1private

1

1 1 1 1 • r 1- people

who rtfuTdfi " jfford mote expensive places.

Reasonable drinks, musk by jukebpg, ami-i:ll ' tmlerlammrnt with the basipi at tlu ^nrrSo- CWtmilinijiv wrrr mimei- it! I lie ^rlvr.* l bat

other people soon izouie 5o wait h nod il-o In

tfi'i Into the net

One oJ the m nsi exchtsiveHii

Mplaces in

Baris today, U Ntw J1tniny% mUJ mmnlairfr

iltr aiini of a private club Jr bide- behind n

^peukiuusv floor A small, hjngfcd Wooden trap

lets the itnordhtt! scmiini*e ytm U iti (hmbbdie trails Reprint Entrance is a sure Ibmn for

Iie-t personid 1 rirtiri - qu |y

Refine herself will well ntiu 4 mu “Yo 1 .uv

hen? Lou early/ ihe will say.HWe have only

JtlS| 1

|

i«.-j ii r I It'S ljitrek iLdl p;i-H.E mzjrrrit.'

1 he mush is loud Enough to make you fed

1 1-41

1

1 1

1

1

1

Inside 41. guilt ifwiik v. r Tli e closeness

of ihe shiny I duck widU 4ml * ellitig iEJtj.sirnEe>

ihe Frem h u !ord fur niuhi du 1 1 frenb-ybk-x

StintruntC! aJit-r two (here i-« 4 j||r and Lhr

Whisper of mlin un| dmtrl he veil markibe LrjdiUannJ hniL-ii-gciwn finale uf nbcshiim prvvi«ity ju ihe Sitmsr nf Sena Ricci1 iwntr Hofurt Ricci, sealed at ci*nttF, ap-

jibntls ihc work of Jn-iid ihrsfL^vr i it ran I

Pipdrt- iji lib ri|jjhF. With ihc decluib 1 -f

riiTLnm-niuik titilidn?, Pari.viati ilthigner-

thpw mm in ready-r^i-wi'-ur rjuihin^.

W

A-

/

Ihmu Liliil p0tip]rT l hu ftrm* mmole, eutIvcl

T lint's the French itajttr JaliMiy Hnl]vda>!I hjii r- Kl5a Marline! Li, t h i Italian ni jMfs!

Rf^llir- Ur|i*mir> them all I lVLlb tfeeji- DUu,_L HfVtT ^ I L‘iJ

|*^

kri'iJinL' up with the beau munde iniMii-

itEiim: !’ I jen

I

.irnunrl 4\ and not ^irrinii

out until nine -in thu evening- Ol eotirsv% nil

Tluit di-unsc* win'n >-mi hsive to c:im a IjA'ing

frivm fimt- in the trior riiopr—lo gis

Li h i" ll n 1

[mit 1 1

1

1 e— near!y hi i- 1

1 f t hpm—w howork at lienor- I 'his- i

! -cal:jli>UTTit,

iii blpiis a saddlery in 1857 and Liter bnui< hed »ui

in include i lolliTTUE 1 1 <peciiiJiif&> in ^ vt[k

scarf that ha_- her ante it'

t

faultsmurkRus it 'till niieijf ir> Ul leather guilds: -addles,

bridlei* heliv. attache casc& dglove v,

-Ji|!|ii-r.v .

i

jmI tiiiik-L.'irtklc eaifife, womenshandball menV whOcLv; unit of course the

itermini—-\xt£ fc-et -size Jipi mintmru t honk * fof

which Hetsni:.’- L fipnmVi n-i

I

The leather eiwi>Lv arc all produced in

Herni^Vrpwn work shops* which n.;cupi i h.>

tipper fl nt Iter nd rn hi nmu hull rf i n is>. iar

h

4x ‘iiurit^ hiiih,. on Lbs 1 favEittii table kue ilu

I1 jiuljnu.ru: I lomur

" Lverythiue e* donn t» b.iiid—uml often

i.i i i 1

1

1 1 r,

" said 4 11

- > cor-alri £' \ forched u . Lied

I'aCm k (ruerranil Hermes, um* of ifu 1 direr*

Itjfs. "Thai* why is is

“We wont Eli -i-rvj* ihe p> •1

1

U 1 wlm Im

a el I- n i LLi.Ii. beauiil li l thj ri

11

I iv • u iitirm l 11

“And I ho3r prop Iks are mmmu from all over

the wnrtd [ i sfiDp lu-re"

ju-f after W 1 r I r I ^V.lt 1 1 Marlene Dihih htried on .1 suede dfc£& at Henm> Lookinghit hin^lf in n mirn-r r *hr veemed undecidedutil Patrick's n*rum I tails ur -.iiil u> Hit, “You'd

I ' bn the eye and paljitv j iu Ii.iuI dioiftt ai La Tour a* rffcl L • >di ? \hr

Viftr rnd NE?lre Dame, nr rtjitJiknptji 3mve i^r 4 iij-irif ihk ns^HJiihcenl Ijfi Bank'sile fiKT fimr rriniiri^s In a imlnm of em.i1 myu M?nir evi.i.llriif.e,, La Tniif i| njyc ol only

I - e-CiEilidmu- n Ls lu fiiLc Ihfec sitskr* in iLr-|n r -\ icUm - MjiheJui _ .jm k 1>

«

\mjMi, dlNlHH

do we; 11 lo pel lbfl| drc-.> Ilp

S one yOU emild

wear twice.1 ’

lit many t>f the city's famed houses nf limits

i me r u.re change 5 art Inking plat v

“Todup a ruxtonihnuiiEc rirtii cuhK iflJOC/'

>4iid Ruben Ricci. Thv lean situ I graying

president uf Nina Rk i L Ihe Pirn fashion

houav fo tin fled by In? mol bur. wore q inn iluii

looked every hit of (hat price

“Wotiicti ait turning rnott- ;lui! mure Eh 1 he

li^uti'iut'- i'<r uv.iih |n wear dothcsT bi went

on. “So, to stay In bu&rm!5,% we have hod la

vrealc and sell ^jerfurno—some cotIb tin l> $13

a brittle here"

rhe twelves add up tu tar owe than the

twelve hundreds The scent is $old in rtlm 1 * -

s

even muitn in I hi Uni toil Sintra, it is 1

leading seller. Tho j*rrfume side of the I n

HfiSS employs ahum I.GOO people, ihe couture

side about >100

h i [iidl Kitchens Colfft Keep Secrets

Still, ili' idiuturc sldfc fini^hi - ahead in ro>

bonk, for it ItfP* Mile France Vadrcii r a marine

uuisi as l.msrusd andlovdy a&shij is wispy and

grand ill Hair long and as black as her i^es

Fsquisite white skin, a lint nose* geaefous

red lips Can a scent top thair

VS hill i* the em,i tit Her bte&uiy?

klI tiki* 1i» dntueT slir said,

+hand go to Nnr-

Inandv for Soiag walks in I he u?nnir\ Ind \'W

Inyir to ca!'"

\\ ben Parisians go oul lo dine ai a good

restaurant, they make Ihr mini of ii—never

Tmnd More likedy Than nul lhe> ivilll

- hin&v 4 hisim like Afed— i u >1 1

, l.utinJ fu

r

Andre Allan Fs, ItamHJU' and his wifi

Fer

n

unric ' m 6p ,'j rrr rrr 5ft 1

1

ee 1 1 tti ei> 1 1 t- tw n

wei“ks before Andre ran fmtl a place for ynu

in hi- hluvk rmtebnok* hut when you r|u M-rUe pushup past tlir ded warming cuunfer

and jostling waiters,, v\m wid fine] frertt&indc

in Animated conversation with a French

housewife insisting wprm netttng a recipe

And Fern and r give> 11 to her1

"Sri all kib hcrih are no gi>i>d fcil keeping

sinTirbC ^he say -

If Andre has just Returned from bis annual

trip to the wine country he may describe the

,1 rl of buying. hi= special wines—but that fa

011J3 ball his an“Never, never, never.

11 he sav 41

wilt l li'i a

gUfcM here fur ibe first time ord'T ji di i g :n r h

c

yesterday, I had to tatplidn w hat the oil ami

* hitffEftr it' u salad dressing would do if serveti

with a turbot rirr ftep^rrr /' u\f,. NVvlt would l

permii 1 gutsl to nrijer ^uch a thing1"

just as the humble wineshop save nse ovef

ibe year> u 1 1 1n : .« r «

1

he bistro h nul evulved1 M> mu I cases In whiji l:ui onb be

called the lenipk of i:us^itn_% a prei im t h.il-

1 1

1

wed in11

_r,

i1 \ 1 j j 11 r e world Ow ^ui'b placL

is lai Tour d'Arseni, as thfc fcojfc uf a sE^Tstor 1--

buildim: un the Left JSjinJt

III always remember the rin-i lime I dined,

there—one spring evening oh an eariitrr vWiity 1'.if ii* From my cable I ga^cd nut on tlm

Cjthi'dr.i! of Noire Dame sailing down river

Lbn 1 ;i 1 iil- vdver Imze of a June dusk iflining

peU;eh jtist the lights of F’.'sj-n were blinking

11 n Ikkif myn Ltd h relink.

VVhfti liu^gested :-cn--k.eil the livad

waiter liesitaEerl

VrjHH :tre dining in Ul Ttuir dWrpem." lit*

hmillv said iti a firm but kindh tune Wltui,r M *

tbeuP Why, df hvochtl, of course.

ronkliiioks will Tell you 1 h at ijuerttlk> de

- 1 . il heft involves milk, I ml IL-r _ bn: ad eruEiibs,

-^1 ami HmH> grouod fresh islktf—ul|

pii»ft(J |m inched, and served with a tiftsm

-,iin e. But just whitl Jriiigk La I'oyi d'AmenT

works tn turn ihesr sample ingredients iutu in

miuaiTpiece fa r.iut in am brw»k

Next tame Tht; specWly ili+j

pev-^L'd duck K Iwlrttridcd b\ u boimtjjul Rlep

gund^ deeauied by caudit lie In. And, M 'hif

course. I finished the dumi'r wiih wile! straw

berries and a suffusion uf euphoria

DuomL'd Miiikel CTlngs Cj ! il+-

i. Tn -

1

1 ri 11 Fftftch cliidm hr- .iUv.l 1

.

bee a Lite freshnes s itnd qualHv nf ihe ingre

dienl - T luviuur 1 Iil- pa -^t c e nl un , Fansia si

have found those at Les l! sillers, the huge

l:.:i -—aod-iron paviliofis of lhl3 central food

HuukeL^ that Kmllt 1 Zulu mailed “the belly df

T^itn-ir

Herr again, * tiftogt ha-- conu*- Jn 1969

all but the butdiur^. h.y^.il in move from Lc-

H iillcs to suburban Kunds.

One iii 1 LTiiiYh' l vEsiud w hal was kit u] kt>

Haller Five of she 1 i market pa^ iliotn had

disappeared Bui the nu-nl cent^t wa.^ bl£_v-

ilinc, handler.-- burly football linebacker^

husilinu m^i55iv”e burdrns of beef on ihcir

:h!.uikkj r>, Wot to him who cjot In the if w.i

Afnuiid Le.-i Halles I foumJ an aminated

neichliorlicM id uf good And bad1fftreelb

v. 1 ih tmme:- lik^ Lli i insnde rmaniltriic aheHmat Dvtoqucmryi, lanes lined with lilted,

Tot'ijH-Viil-liiukniLi houses, and all kiftd> "1

1. Atr:- The " darned nl i.he dim rid Eurked in

dark doorways of crummy hotels ar slnod

hrarcnly on &imrt rrrrner^ garish in slur mul-

ligbl Hdrfy m^n Ln blond) .ijirorts crowded

9&

NJ

h|— kjfi

Jijj-.TB _ -I

r r'

,*1 II1VH

*w ?

1

~.MU

Hi 1' »*

j/l,Ki gfl

rr- * J

Bh/ij

In the I’litmtumc! cciUtr "31

wiir

uCijfi-l -i uriei l It_lJ 1 i fr tdifHdaft 41 hr

Mitlcs at [jolirc- htfjiilqiMrti ri flush en/ws

«f Pun*1

* heavily traveled -1 ree-L^ A±

l hr Am bar^ Enr nf red their

liaie mummy's ivufk done.

"How rntlcll luma' r will I he market hthy

JUTcr1 "f a>ked a meat vd kir.

' It'll be another year/1

Ise sajd, ^before ourhulldir^ -it Rnn^> arr rrildy

"Will ><ui lie -nnry £« move** J n-ked11Wei Lit k -Lif| (in IcBVe,

1' he admitted., “liul

1L k i fnivded and nlft-ffl_vhk'tied htinn

OlU't Le> Halles Lire all minr, what will

uike theiriiJtinr^ The city ho* plums for a park

above a niant uiitlrn’nmnd complex to m-elude two subway shtfinn* and a ^hoppinp

04

(eider \i ! \t to the pork wall stand u museumof r nutem pnrury art$ and a publir library

Which. «r HiJty not relieve the rnn-

4t%tL'f| -tireb of PwProblem Rkl. J: Tfutfie

JEvery’ day r s.CHk 1 vtliirlrr finer ami

leavi! Pajfi>T" -an I j&Egtlgg f^nnir. the Pro

Ji-rl ot F

B

<jlirir ipaEf I tN Ik. Vm S jiml abnul p

third nf Um i.

,ur L. that park tn Thi- l ily dn hi

illeiRilly even thou eh Hie pajkuijt i u ; lilies

havn doirbled in retenl ye,u> [fur Hu-il >n

has rhe number nr curv"

comrestioo develop* morriinnUirF ipfpri imftf police 10 trouble spot*. Some two tuiEliun cans

art f^hflerttl m Greater Parth, yei tlkr rtf.1

-- tfrfcfltf ftift deemed capable of lunJJidK only

ilijl.M.'JO mi.ivihi; vehicle at .1 tllrli* '[‘Ilf f»u 3 l miu^ivu* iruffLC jjinu Du(£tr new f-n-w\ .ivk

_L j 1

1

1 ujtfiPL^s ji u [ 1w LiVii, mav fulfil I. nri Mil' ^ i rcijLrS FLu'c r£f La jCOTKOPlifi ’left? flows ton i'FiiW ’1

Mnn-ieur Lenoir sol at a desk Ranked bykink- 1 ii

- swatches and buttons Television

monitor 5haWtd how traffic

.11 ,im i-J j'S difTicelff h.n atir-Ei^ ll Pl.nw

de rOperJL Place i.Ee la Concorde* Place dc

I

!

Etoi le —rectiat !y rt 1ranu-i I 1

1

1 :m t <

H

1 varies

dc C 1 ati] h —an d apy 1 nm 1 h& to I -rid fi 1 rev er

tin Maine, 1 he TV ru fleeted famMar view- oi

Paris* problem \o. 1

"A very important thing to do." *ai4 the

- «--I

‘

1 " | ' r : ii |..I-

:

n |l;i% |i irtniji ,rr 1-

:ti key pointy cm Lhe cily’> penmeter Thai

wrt> commuters ran leave their cats on the

fringe of Park um l sake the Metro or bus into

1 he center.*"

ihi- mmr In the -uburb- i* iinh ihr jaicitTT

3h 4i limit of htunirban duikr-up^ Hal-

ing bark hunrln^ of years

k.ikeihi- dktni;i o:j Li Marais, *lhfc marsh

mi catted I'm auMi 11 N-nl rn pi swamped each

linif 1 Pm Seine rose allow normal, Eventually

itnuncd liiirl prill ci ted upainsl further flood-

ing. Lc MlikiJ.- became in r 111 UiLh centur- the

best ailclrer-s in Park But then. m itle rni'l-

Js^th I'elllUry. high ^JCfcelV mftVerf WCfvt to the

faubourgsrur suburbs. nl Si Mono it and Si

951

(icfftmta Artisan^ swortnod inio Le Morm-^ in i humeycnmlitd Llu^nni'iul lun Mi he- With

Jiulr workshops and hnvtfhfc

Null'. Imwi'viT HiLTi i: lL jjrugnim Ln ft

sion- Lind pits^rve the timlitiortid afthilec-

tund ng Le Mnrai? ami to create heller

living cDnditi^ fi ir n> i-rfideM* The -uti . -4 itf this project rfujSL'ndjr Ijug-ely mi sin-

Association But tin 1 Protection and Improve-

mu n t nf Tfbidric P.u'i:-

At the .\s^naliittf$ ht\niqui trier? in a

iMiiH' in Lt Marais with ii eryijTliki w liar

rli.it igjiir- fr?mi \'4A\, 3 w#a wehomed byMis Paris- Mils 1 .Vhuie-TherAst: Parih> that

is, th# secreiarv

rhU building weli a loruc and Biib>r.Lhrijd

home,1

' >hi- -aid “Ijui .ibmn ,T years aggo it

Wfl? divi i Isz r l i nto three I onem r i i i - H y iu r i nv r.

ct iLliiry, fehe house #as ft min ft would have

ojiTrtt flrnvn had »ui Lhr Municipal ( lurnil

R.iVi.-!1 ii !n 1 1 a

i

1 V—:m j . 1 1

.

: . 1 1 \'mv wi htLVc

mao) others lei Ll“ MaruL. old hniisai we rtm

converting to Living! quarters .l^ain We wsll

save, wv hnjur, a lil|lc lift of old Pari?"

C s. II end by a Bold Prefeel

CeriuSot) I iu: tihlrst and one of the tnmst

1 htiJii-, -an I abotn Pari* is Thtt the more it

changes* the more it ]s tin- ^arsic Vet the |qtr|

Wi: know Eluu nf rlu- nr and h* > tile v; Ltd midthe Uvi i jiuiM vista, from tmh a i entury

a\io twhen Baron Gearapis ffau&firrmrm, Pre-

fect ''f the Seine, ia.it fed u p with quaintly

jumbled districts and (little Mfeeb He ohlit-

®fflttsd engine neighborhoods in lay out liis

- and c.vertitc his heroin plan (inap,

ILi ne - !p-J-7 1 1 I i i“ a] si j Ii at 1 .in till efh si? m lit IVe

—to 1

1

\yv n broad lines o I" fire ft ! J lL> trui1

1

-,j s i i

I

mails to iransjupri them iiiii'kb He wantedni 1 n iimt revolijEiinir like that of i.s^h

( Iti imanl against il different kind of revn

lut iurt 'binds the Anid^mii 1 hrunvi-lH- \h A

aur-. .nit- Htvrarv stick;tv created ;n tfi fclS byCardinal Rlcheliiya to work inward the

purity of tht- bui^wtj^e, to isiiiblkh a sumusarre ol word? Ti- mission renipjps ituifli

ft ^r/PMue-.J1

rv rr pagf JP*

i

\ lik' id triuiii|ilk ji tumb ul > p3 endin'-

X;i[iiik'uu Il«5iiu[i:Lrte hi- - hii t n-i I purph} r.y

oarrophuffH? befnre tl -r;ita-t§ fepreseatmg

hlji major xdflsirh- Vihiliif* I ini1 llichiilteirii-

te n iJ:i 33 l: ihs* ; mi'n'nir - Liypt At Ihi EEotii E

3nvaiir|L > r rmfe home tn 7 ii* ,r rei ir irrl

•m 'III r- > i -u ii

I md-Ji^ht J.hiiw in LJii Ijh-tj-

11 1 H- i! 'iirl yard iriLihl rriniint- Lbf iuni .n'-

miirrnr> hf-rjt^i iff1

97

\m 3ri'

"—f™ __ „

n

I'Hta riV*

S5?

MnvM h^ciHTU'K .1 when tui iiuporhuiL murnrtlt slrrn v± int a J'Vi'tK'h Ianif ly— H

ii

pWVi

buv'li Snlpititi Coni m hi

1

11 ii i. f

1e irk

i

t I truth*.1! diiratft thi L tMEiu'niniJii ocfIsicU- flir 1 3 ninta

feH-H vDOip.II

J-mir mi'll goidr Pnris ihrwifrii sht

•e** of LHio frntny a JiHli-

ceiitury imblre^kilt-.. Hit world's third

rl|L]ftt populous L'Eiy 1 1 Li* fiu

Iht’viTnft itf. uritfiiml Luiandarii 1-, a ff-

?ult or mpJustriiilieatlori lluu began Ln

iJw muI-UW'inV. Eri ilu- ^civem-

mm! rcHir^amiE'rl lit In1 tt it .idmmprJ^i

ilif uriWIchly sprawl of Orvau'r Puns,

Nimt In fitfhl itui 1 1 ion

Vatvi. pTiipicr rem l ll n - divided i n Eh i

jn jjTT^pf^ijjrmrjihp rpo.’ h with a

mayor who ck.J srith -uch matter?

j- Uifths, ilr^.th±, jiid f'Ety

nwk-v*—streets, utilities. and rduc^-

fmn ’; i

!

‘ un-dfcl Iht Pretext of Fftri

jeiifi \ frdiLT Miliirvi% left ip ii;i[HPnil- rl

l|> 1 llr HfltlOflBl (pH - ! rnnil!Rl

hihJt For law crdurtcirreiit, Ptcfcd of

Police list £|ue* E ?m>v mbiivt) htijti-

a 2-hiyi' i-m.’in fnrrc majiojkiJ thniLt^h-

out the irufE.ro i ^ Telrplmrit con-

iule L^Fure ti3 rc3 :oniiLCl> with llio l sly *

nmny firprinft-

Svrvicts involving both Part* 4 ml

3l? LmJKLTMiini' - u 1 1 nrliu , -ucli .l> Hus

ifitAls rrar-.j^irSiiEn^, jwrj ani4|niL>

1 11 ill. .lie handled b\ the Prefer! of

I he Paris Kcjafin. Maiinri- Doublet

lapiii-r Ti Jill 1

1

The W-nwmhcr MumrifiaE Oxsrril* derust bj popular v oth-,. appro* 1-

llir dt‘- htuE^ci I he filina r! iircri 11.dk

fleets si- ftwn prwdeiiL Jn (his

|i .1 - riu'riqijx In vve-f ri

lOt

tor

Bastille Dav Initttc HmhU die Champs I Ivhmjs- in Htris I'tiunnl^f^ hih 14. ITtii-i,

I he same irjday- "L> rtafenrl the initrgny i

1 hr I uiguaiff ihiraJcncd Ijv re^iseiirej prior

l"Ii i'i Hlflhcrovrai JICM ilr iin|tfiM-r*l Words,

•k'vLtii'iin^ ill meantne"The Academy ha* ft. tnembersliip limited

tn 4" fc,

n iiiiiiLirt.ils' ih-ithjiiuihJu-' tfrt-n nf

let ie reefer ted for life. To belong in t h t1 Und

rmy h tine of the preaUrst honors n French-

ffldlt i.rjJ: itljiiu. \< tVuMlrU S‘kr mrciii in - ur

prim-ipally concerned with i

*

l L

j

t s

n

|4 the dic-

U<iskL[\ m 2 the Imviu'Ii Lm^imiic1

1

T \hh

} arc n i iw ul htj rk * u a Iht ns n I h ed i tinn

nf the i hctiini;(rV|" M I Jilinid OsSiT, I he ad-

ministrative set retiirvt

ti >|i l nae. “The ftrst

s-ftttte ii-kdl in"

“How far alutip k the ninth

]

risked.

”Al letter he snJd-

“Whtut will vi hi be rih retied?"

"Srime time in. Tb£ - 1st century"

9

\n immortal has istiiicti tb:it one of the

mo*t important functions of the academicianto i Lie, for .m academy like tJii^llos+i languid

ibt- wh*n hui many members indi^rcctiy out-

live itse camlii lutes,

Atfionjc ihoie who Imvc lived, and died.

rni nu' Academes tutus* art Cuttidlle t 1 aFont .'line, Voltaire, Alexandre iJunuiS fits,

Victor Hugo, Atiaiiijc France* Paul VitiiTy

Andre MnU.Tnis. tvnd Fnm^oi* Mauriiui,

From (he Arndt1 mi e Fnmrjaise, I crossed td

the Rstjhi Bank and talked op the Otiui de

'ii Mr tzisse ri e Thrue 1 ree-shm ted bl< ic k lnn y,

Lhi> of the embankment becomes addewaJk. j?n when e lu- nmri> pet dinji- -ri

out thvir wares l walked pas* capes crowdedwith lurtJi-K .uni i .lul'-- i * I lii_: In' h . i.,: :.

upside down; there were puppies, Bantamrooito^t pmEi LT pigeons, and dive pcaenck;

pfieajtftnfe.. I'LurKcnE^rs, ducks, kimi pur-

ine ms 1

1

ihbfecs an I V i?£iuiu :: u x* liraal; . * he

i

salamander:*! snails. snakes Ijidpoles, exolft

llt-ards and ryrn silkworm* feeding <im

w]y! I took Ctj I ht nmJluTa leav-iss

.A 1 1

1

!i -ij [ i .uth" lo l.hr ] [i’tU'I i Lit \ tUc> which

in France means “city 3ial]."

Ekww'titfre in France every hotel Hr villc

luk- st L mayor Nut >o hcr^ at the nation'll

mv-A i mi "i ft an f city h id I u f n 1 1 Pari ^ i i d pvfdrrf

into Jl) nr administrative

worda. i'jli 1 1 uf whit;]! has it mayor But the

city has no over alt mayor » or lord maynr; in

stmd, the rcjfTondbilltifcs res l with four memi In- Prefect of i Eh- KtgLon, Hit- I'n I'i-i s of

Piirbi "the citj ;n i|n-Tk rlii Perfect (Police,

nnil this President of thr Municipal Ouutidl

r aut 1-

I>i j-

I u J i. And of thtst\ the Prefect of

Paris and she Project nf Pellet ore miagfi

ff\*|Ttm>ibk fnr tEil- adirnnhlriilinn of the < itv

Daniil Life nance appropriate m <hc offn r <f

1 1 1!_ Prefect uf }^n Vc-rdsei rerL-hiil

mu jn hi- irn.-t, Ui jh-cuilfniifri i. hum her- ul

tW Hotel de VHltr. A mien in hh mrtfefifties

without o trim- i >f |?ray an hi- black Imir the

prefect spoke softly linri dresser] I'n-ni^rvjitlve-

h On Oil- In I lapel u] In - dark hlur -ur hi'

vvprr the crimson ribbon of OmnnutfidrUr dc

In Utaiutt d'HfUttteur

l

kani mustn't. be a city driven immod-i riMi l> tow.inJ modirmEsm md industrial

i-rL-num y/1

be -.ml "Snr must it bt purr I

.l museum city* oriented only in the poet

There ii.iH.Hi w \t ha hi nee lo avoid papul niton

moVerfii- Nt L Want the ft* ht fw. uptr-— tilt-

small -hn pi keepers and iaburers—to stay in

P in-. Mr it - ;ih kinds ui people thas Eivr the

t itv iL -i iljI I don't want Purls tn hri nine a * ily

of office employer - or ;t ufty only for ths 1 rich.

Misfit. Hrtitks the Harriers

“fobi Uhi Sunday 1 went in an organ redial

in Xthv DiuriE-, the prefect rontrriLiud. “and

1 wcls imorn i d h> the mixture rtf people ui

all lj ii I cJnIssc-s. Many yiinnu ptuptlu.

many piirenU wWh children 11 was reassui-

inn M* ^s b suih diversified and usnee finding

the yirpf joy jn thu same place"

I, mo, liiLd .itletnied Ihr siupe nec i i a I i*nil

• j i 4 Ci I never forwel hoWr Uic t hondr No l in

E Major <if Cesar Franck JlUesl the vaulted

btunenstty of the cathedtml with Joyous

thunder U ua% uru-an nipsir at il^ mo.^t pitl-

pabte; h pressed acainst my breast like ;l

-ri -h" Ur tttd I had : i-

1 . -it I i s .

i _ 1 11 d.

tu ivjaks ihr TiJLL-dvc pI3E:trs trL-ml'Ie,

'AVhut i In J you Hi Ink i f Cl:

-

ui Kr.inck\C horn lu?" T a^ked iht- pnfctL

Hi? fiui' Imhiud with j -mite fm mu-rv

ciocjurnt than itny Wt- lnokrd at each

ill htT hke old frienrf>

Mansteur Walker/' In kaned t«wnrd met

-I'Ll i i'll ihini .i swrrL When T heard she muskof Cesar Franck, my eyes filln I

wnli n-.n -

%A"c 19 ,

Monsieur W lV*?tet T m did mine. At

that mo*! litifEuoi rif l landittoru- -fEspnn^1 mLrjiksci 1

1

deni a I beilULy, t it ii a

rivili/eiJ trzdt, iearned in places like Paris

over Ionsi>erickh of lime b - men !n;nu 1 o

pj-ys slu UrutL1 lu-hin S T.hena+tii find n_n art even

ejl the mere exi^tl^ on this planet

And if Purh rhnnar? beyond nut ikeELnis,

die ttilJ niili, I thloL leach ttu'ji that. Es-

IH^inlly when spring iscominn.atid yiur step

has u hit id" a j.iunf in it. mnf yOUt feieods at

the i art- me wajtm*r sor yon

!

ARTICLE AND PHOTOGRAPHS flY

PAUL A, ZAHL, Ph.D,MATlWtAI nr nUIAHUIT MMJpll ffiKHTUT

denizen OP Darkness, « Texan

blind salamander stalks small

crustaceans. One of the strangest

of tit kindt the shovel-nosed

creature liW in tvells andandrr^rotind streams. Throughout

its life it breathes with gills,

organs that most salamanders

outgrow as adults.

n tiS'l ME'

l

the urIuM '.ilfciniiinrliT in

I Ni urth America late 0110 liipdu Lu Arkansas.

I A p propria Lul>\ Li a calkd it hellbender. T'

Bwas -

1

hu

>

B iifpi luc .1 fqet sod n ball km®and blotchy brown Its llaltejied head, rvl

wit Si mkt, heady cyrs, merged nEvkh^iy with

a body sheathed In jpiofrstj odnldcd -.kin,

fn i n- u hichiffwrruilc i J a |

jotukri *ti> in i 1 L

wen; sliortadd slufiby^tocd . In all . il &uajbe %E fe i 1

a cross hfi wizen a fbht a lisd^d, ami -ameWeird crawlf-r from n. prehistoric swamp nrjl Jkormr mont* ffoHuw)

EarEIt: r t hii i nis 3i I 1 bad \ni n e I . l li rl 1 1* jid*

r

ImM briow the[id I iv iiv ni i > litin L anyin u:

Bttrfilipiits I H Ji' wl 1

r *, l l 11 - hi mtts and wearing

whist Eu.th mb her hcmls-* we mined corefkilU

*\ iif Lbt mo^y ruck*, bn I Lind fie against

Lhc -irooj • ormu Almost immediately i s w

im« of my cmnpiLifctcir reach down uridcnrnt!

up with njmeihisijE that lunkutl Itki.- a.>dirrd »(

.t i fill] moioftyilu lire.

in less than 20 m l rmttt tlu- wader* ivcrc

hark on ?liorc wilb a dozen hellbenders i<>r

fill f Oil LcT iL*—\ictl i

m

-riy of I 'ryf'itihrtifirhus,

liiTRuSt salamander in LhL- feltni Htpn-pherp. i Kply oul teliitn u i

- bi^er. \ nmtvi.

of China and Japan, where its mu a? is cod

sitfcrad a del ion y n itm> w filth as much os

iOj

i«-vLinrl LLiid reath ;i length of five teel

The be 1 1 bender, found tpatwlv from NewVbrk -i i

i

a r

I

i lu northern t =<!ifcridaaml ll-

far ivcl*i as Arkansas and Mi^uirl, iEve* in

rus ky clear‘Water stnmms. At night il prowls"

i mylSafe 1 •' .

-

1 n . I n V It icoes for n fisher

man's bait. Faced with so reputpyc a catchy

lh\ lidierniim more often than not cuC the

line intend of dislodpru: 'In hi n>k But she

apfufarunrc tffei'i vcs LV^f^ftjflrAju1

,while

atguilkle til ti pinching bile, es hurmle^?

The hellbender i« anyth itiiz but brauUfuf

but ib reliulves rnttoag! thr umtm of tubed

uniihibhui? kririwn $s- s^airi imclcrs and

newts include sntnc of the linndtfarnesi of

t r*Blu re - de ticuic 1> Formerl. et^k yfiil ly ult i 1c

,

idcgnntly < frlnrud Vm i . he 1 1 i ' u n let mi III#le i| T

I E 1 1 1 r L nnhim;i iliIj t - .iiiinnJ. the most fa_^ i

tuibUK I i r rj l id ]ire; divide off their exl^tetice

bcuccen water ami land. l hey rejifesenl a

crucial step in file evolutionary pfm r-v

1 1 K mil nuji'h of a mufUa! k‘.i|i from the

hellbender hack to the lu[Ju-e:UihL‘t Verte-

bral i; . l h.il i nude 1 he mimientous inin.sitidn

fium water lit \nndi As retofi^tnirttil by

paleontoln^i-i- from fosill tpcmftkis* rcmny nf

1 1 1 ij >c creiiture- hi iff a .d rikinc ENtemrd nj-

Hifnblmia to Lin 1 hell! lender and! ulhrr Uving

^ilisnusndedfc Tltt^ i* not to imply u direct

tine di^wLOJl- -urjh that rertuin ancient fen-V

tiires Seera to hfive per-b ted

The truit-sidon bc:>HU mnre than SSO mih

Ron years ago, Murine iht Devon\m fn- H nrl

t

w hizit fishes weir the anly uEiLnuib with bark-

bones. Amorn: iW m a n y k i h 1 1 - of fishes i he rs

strtigjrirtiLE for survive], -omt had internal

1 1 , n ur >ju v loM which they gulped Lvir— tin i ugh

they still hrealhed by mean- ol gi|bm :^llEqually irnporMiii, thin had sturdy paired

fins that enabled them lo creep over ptxn\ ttml

riv^r'bottoms in fe^ch of Ihorl

Durina druusht-. she I li ra sacs and those

rtrunk appendages witc blessings It a \um\

fCnnttituetf Pfl pugr

Jr/ r

d* iw* ! JP p^% P*Brmv *tfw iii

jit" "•^WWTfT j*

1 i‘ "J.til

i p/uLM tP

Wri n-kh'd In krn >rn . I . \

aA 1 1 m • n lit-r le H

laiLi!. i in UV-iern E-kniKphiTeMda-

m.ijiilcn;— n Lilk- a cmytiih dl tuier.

A J1

1

'^-Lr.fcn l"L" ili'lrr^ menu. jkcutiie tr(?m

hau'lilnif tin* vllmy IwiaM, ihimch ilie

I S-i rail -lime river dweller holds rio

f|;inu£T Pit ninn

Virkiitft jam- cif Lis khi \\w \Mfthi .

Iii mijj3 nltJaiHfni-i l "r i' 31 £:m eu! " ulin^ £,

! r1

1 11 1 *

i I In- h.imJliT in Wttt iilo’.-i;-.

Ndrhcf Afrii'cn ru»r m irel, thi tLny-

lepjtrd thrives in swtLinpy hnn^s

oflhc ?rrtllh\'v^nm r niter!

m:

C Iciakrd in umm-s (hi-

red -s|>oEtL"i J rirWl Like vsiriiiLt^

i n mis l y n L > f'Vriih v ry jLil I ill 1 3 \vj\i i ^ \\

(he larva, him heel from ancuj; In ilrv irekm? iIsll neWl maylit’ ' i t l nvr (lii wii:« r ki'i-| ms: am iz i I L

-

even JW in iiiull iJnwnr ji.ih i I"

Inwi Schtnedafto fin- nil"- otrojilij Tm

fore I tie ':ii;iniiandtT hrectb ^iiiklEr,

br 1

1

pW) I" - ii:lIK Lhi*y > IIh

j

1

1

[» nr p mi-

pkfrlv 3=. !mi |T' ikvekpp and I hr howtmetanKirjihusith intu the terrain ;il

^i1

ii-r.'J1 Iri^hl Ji. ii'klE |n thim

5car^ (hib eye-cAldihin ndolHwenti ‘liiirurr:? enfor iKiuri .srni reiitfni I'

1

f iller jl- s. rlitmaatJ air-1 irt>L|.l Ii5 n i* .uSult

l-fll.iiilt.mdrT ii \\'M, tH‘iovvP i MhlRininll -Ii. i. ;;jni m-.h AvI # ’ Ifcirn

1ml i I I P

r«i § i

i

II

i h '. * I I'- - In i ! KhU 31»

Si-irpmiihu ccilur* mark mailin’- \hia lirr

mo 4 i ns ihvir in’L's m ikfk misi IjtiflniMftlJfrl

?,ii I .. rcs.mj 1^r

- 'tupi ^rk « irm> ami in mx'- im

tk-f ffitting hv£i. 1(1 uaVPSs iUfcl pn 'VQ|H|gc iueiii-

I'lii1 Ltarr^ii li^tr ^nln m-i 1 1 rJt r \JTlradle «

-4fTfvEi

4*v<'P ihi fir-' it of shr llfciii 3JLiiri?i 1 livjni in

i.iiimjj Uumiws ;irni tit* uffiina r<. water only tu

linc£i{ B^kciwav tdl! CM 1 1 »i ^T-rr-i Ni . * S l t

jun^FwU'f fldW'rri ruirri*w - Hi Uir hltu, w I i-r•

pmiaCor sir.ibir it . ilw .appendage -nap* off

ikalnu i;^ iJji- feiiSiLmruaiitT to esrapc.

Ir

1,1»

I T« i nt ti

L

ll i.th trunh|iart iM jt-

1 1-

PiiirLh vvcrturri rtn-

I -n n- Kfft i Lr v i» nil ' nLk -Mn -

.

within tlicir VL-.tr iiisi

r id h tKn cunr crt'rn

<«.. TKIRllllfep* IliJkr I P “CM “Win 1 ¥* »«ViPl|l* II * MS HUES* ' L R li |**7TI.

Vfw HFf flow* IrriTTi l hi- IrorSv erf a tpnlld -i4iS:il1ianik*r Ettbpv*' h.L i n\i m|i i\ hfdlirh thill

will hetfmur An Limtarwutor Imic \nrr: Sprint nim> ciLti brim* of \)w*r wisddlartd: ttra-

lure:- 9ic SirterfuiB pm ids wbi-rt Lbry court in fl uaK^bbinji jlxju j.in Li.rflei |\iirs then squirmi-

irul ill*- mj.lr >penn pnebri* ipfi I he flcu-a Hb maMi driuvs iHl'jti imu htf

jj-Lil * , 11 ii ,nj f jdu ujiet, Th*? prjp ifc^lup jju Lbdr uift'ii—-or betutne d meal frir prpiijiiiir*

m

Vitionul Geographic! July 1972ii2

shrank ur its water §iji[zxmled+ lodinr uxygrn,

Mic unlmaL needed daily Lu sn.iTf[ii_e fur a jrfplp

nil sir. As She pool dried up, lln? In! putltlk*

mu Id carry Lhc ervaJum hilariously ovw-(and in dvepi,T and dcuOfiT u.Mrr Tlvc para*

c|ust il- Jwltttcd iml by pataontoloinM A Ifrati

S, ftottierT iis that "land were drvelutM'd

To itm h tilt wiiter, nut to Te-uve ltn

As ages passed brill eon*, evolutionary proc-

esses lirmidu about tm proved Igg paddle-s

anil [ujjy h.u’k Certain -.rptai and FmJky

the hi -i amphibian —cbnjie the

IhwI ipJ liurh wurFtK a * ombiimUon I and-; l rid

-

wjUlt tKL-ieiji c ('['lie word ampfeibimi>rap-

propriately* means “karting. a il"UFde UrViSonic a iti pi H hi itri- her ame wholly taml

m.Eapncit, ni Flits munird u* ihe wniur, oiuhl

fell h\ the w.ivmji Il , a- Hue fo-si] re* on I dhow*Of tlte survivors, some 3.mve ri- 1 toother *ala-

manderijkc types os well as to the farehears

of froj*> anil fagots I n I Fi e flow of turns reptiles

.ill fiearetL Olwr lane produced thi> most ;i:i utK-

iim 'Tuition* of alt* thr muinnials

Muliufii.> t'iL[j TjiLh Mbii 1

. L' im • iu-

Xo matter how r [jveruent their shapi 1

*..

colors, or h a bits, >j l] ; ltc 1 1 1 n rJv rs and most« sher hviny .inlTihibijiits. are r old -blond i-d,

hovt tnoi-i skins .mi Hmb.s nr iinih vestiges

iiisirail iif paired finis, l*> uJJy-rnated

and require ft highly liu mid envtmnmehiSatanumder* usually hunt: at cujihr, nrev-¥ #

tng upon insect^ and *putiJ the daylight

floors beneath tricky loirs, am] inrv^t tiller*

or in niche* In H/r^Ufi berh and pond-

Sometimes member?; of die same gp«£]ggnppem to lie totally un relisted. iliflyribir

markedly in color and InTiavinr accordion t.u

their pfatte <#f development Take, for esanr*

pic, Muhiphihalmus viridts* nrr In Lhe ^primj

thtr itewl— -uTue of Sin mniv fWpikLfi; -.fll.i

mandiT* are railed—dc|wjsfti egjts in a Still

l»>ntfi gluing rhcui tc» LLiiderwitter phmb In

three lo five week* the hatch Into iml-

[wilehki- raftedmer^ about a (jimrter of

llii iiiL'fi bug, wiih estemnl l^^flrvelotiiis the young Led-^putied ne\vt> muw to

itturfy adult By summer'.- end I hey havefmictiomu^ luttgs in J Es have dEfttfioraUid,

i r 11 ! 1 lie i r EnwlLt> have turned a rich oraji^

(pui4t^ l6tt-t(W?

I i.un Isom e nniVi the news-—v.iltud rud

eft> at this itape—i ruwJ aUl of t|ir |m jnf] to

begin u. one- to thrpe year period on luJid Asthey upjjroach its till maiurity, EhdrbriNhiii^.

Coliiration chanjKt* lo dtali itreenkh hrou n,

and (hey dip bark littu the ptmU to resumeLLipjittk way* The l(fe pjituintof -aUimutwlvr-

nm van, < tm-Mlerably, hmvevc^, -even within

a i?pe«:le^iLnd somrtinte:* tin- ^rreitnal stagi'

i> byprison ( euiirdy

LjlM r-nmmer I v id led Sntilbtm ll lmoi-

L'mvL'f -sty, wlu'ri ! E>r Komiid A BnunbiLi

£UoIj»giit mainhiim a r Lihmj • •: saJinnsiiJijcnt.

including asojeub; lhe word means “serv^mi

of w aLer1?

in the lun^uugc oS lhi A;di-- r 1

Brandon's spw!invert* nt A mftyiUtnta mtxirfm-irin iur ubuul eiKht inrhes InriLE and spori

biishy tifiuvn uiEl- lilsu Imlinn lieuddre^^e’-

"[ buiiuhi the»e in a market in ccfitrid

MMico," Ron said- * People* ihcft tail them."

Each Was isolated In a haif-galton ghis*

limvl scores uf which Jine<] the lalitiratnr>

ihirlve* "We p

rr pitcFetnl nor onh i\\ thi+

pI .-'--I I < i ^ 1 1 1l I

J

. il . l J i, i1 1

jI l J '. uf ilexiuujl -j" 1

of I mbys$&maw

"hr iiintinm'd, ^but ttlso in

whul i.- aided iienteny. Tliis fa th< isolodA

caparily to mate and reproduce thmj^ii it

-peniiis its entire lafr hi lhe larval arpntiii

keeping Lr itl:- and a body tin." Km,showufl me snitir newly liatcbed oxulotls

vyhest pttrehT*, ju.it a few buwb iiviav. were

eifttt look ahker. only murh la rye i

Srientisb havt dlxnvrEvd that they ran

make the .ixuhnl atlvau iv in a il doesnut achie^-e in Nuiur^ The ctian^v tonif-

fibs? at when the animal i= snu'i.ted wtih iby-

tpsin^ofie of the hormonesitaaiaftei t er-ovi.h

and developmeiU m Jnirmui* The axolutTi

gilt- gr.at i kid I ly li^aqipisaf an il its bfuly I c.i -c- h -

Lirval dutntcl e ri st

Mud S>ir|jpitts Nffviri 'Graft t_"p

'

This ciirinus qoprljijoti oi tttdtenv is not.

exclusive to Mexican MssJotht The i-nninion

mud puppy of I hr eastern and midrlli! I'niEtnl

S I at -P4> 1 1 1 uni 11 (in.: iio si i [it

1 rst it foil fiiisti h

holds that it cun bark^—^aj^o remain- laruiJ

ail il-i hr'v. I Ti n% rvL’r. thyroxine will an <L \ urtiii

a imid puppy- from its larval aare. a lvurnher

nf olJtrf ncolctious salanumdera are Mjnlhul^

rr-.i-. 1 -mi \\ h> '-tune r^pond lo Ihymtbittt-hEJr others do rtnt intripnje- researchers Theexplanation nutv well shed further light unhn-w tiormiiTire wnrk m tbt htmtan hoeh

i

W^n Tht- mnSf oxoinlJ i- re inly to mate, heijLjHi^tl^ iitidt-rw Liter, nn ]jehblr-. Iraves

for

twie-. tiny gelaflrtotls tilnh- fjdlirtJ ^f^rmar-iiffchucr.% with warm- uf mu t -i ipi>

rpiTmaluKi ui. lei rjluaj .uijurm i- the Ferrude

The Shadtnvv World of SaJamander* 113

lowers Sltr>rir over the spejnm&tuphtffe^,

drawing Lbe j-pcrrn into her bud) 1 1 IkrtiURC

the cgir* ^lir is about to Lay

Tbf n^ol-Oti ts one *>f ii scorn uf liighh

di versified til the wide-pri-ad genus

3 h; fry stom ri . \ n ' >t be 1,the marl *

I t-i \ hman -

i let, display unusual brmti

r

\ g lifiiI nesting

bdmvinr I tainted <tf si in the company m1n iIh3*rta& St l i ic. a BaJ timore dentist who Js

doing resciircb on Mlnmaftte for a ilottnr

me id ecology and behavior.

Yoiurnn Bilim Trigg#* H idling

On Um* iHitakirt* of Bakimon ime after

noon last .iLitumTi!. Dr Stifle sho^wi mi- n

duEen or Si ' min i in- red wtxiden -strikes, like

pi>p5H'k sticks* driven mid el shtitbiw dejirea-r

^jipninthe ground Kns'h marked the location

t \I a twA found rlunn^ the previous -^ascti

' L

Tlit matblrd imLind"r lay- Its vgj:- in

hill Instead <iF 3prittn/f Dr 3tiiic nutoil “am]

on land instead of in waster The spot n. let-

r.etl

im the m-st is always low eon ugh -j? thnt Jt

firm Ms during autumn raio^ Tht v\ijz± hoLdi

wSu'd His 1 waitir mtchr-s them. jih! the y-untan

rLiLimmnrkT-: remain then tor Lin aquatic

phase til iheir rAclt’"

He knell by a marker and brushed away

humus iknd faJti-ii tenve* In a^maiJ hollow a

I hf-ii ii til'ul ty mi ill led b la i k-it ml -wh it r Ii n uer-

Idbic: salamander curled jtfpDtrti hr.r dutch

ofnlxiut Jihiimirud pinhead- ^t1 eggs hi • nmt1

,

jHjrfett embryos shmvc.id; ihruttdi, t was re

im ruled of the mother!) ilrvcmon of sfllamnn

ders of i lie Pliuliotlonijdaefjiiiuh \rw\\ page!

“\Sar after year.” I tr Stint rmstiimed,,K-i«iiie females return in the -iiiiie nest sin-

l itju of tny marked females has rnme back lo

the Mime 5-put fbt three visits How she finds

her w-u idler months of. feeding fur rdf in theM

forest suid after spring and summer ruin.*

haw flooded like area fo uncanny,11

Bui theft* many farts and certain]) nil

fiction aba Lit salamanders mi-rhi be termi-d

biiinrc, meluding the oiii't’ -popular belief

I fust Iliv i mild tint harm these iimmak In

cevltirnes past they Were bdd In iaJ awe

lor this reti^m Tltr myth burin nri Mould,

when Ina* limrbiprinK ^LlLim.mcter^ wt-h- tufted

illIji firt?' Tht .beat muetfil the creatures \u

iad away... tnd ^tihers thmifdnt ihet

them treep thrnuch 1 hr Games anhuri

M> search Fur >4liuniuider \*>tv oF ii runtt

mllfl 'on umk me U> Forsyth* Mb^iurL tn

mtel Tfim \ky t a hydrutegist with the l\

S

M-trn l- “Alt niy lih! t « I wunled tu ow ri

a cav'e/1

Ttirh Etdrf itic,H4n When 1 Wi cJiotifilt

mi i r i lh

. fair .i Mown pciymcnl, I Lou chi nnc

nearly two miles fonit* tuedher with tht 126

at res of Lsiud on top of It-" There Tom has set

Lip hi!" i jeark UmU'nrmund l-nlKiratory—

a

center for studying fubtcrrancan rulers. mn*[

cti vl 1 j-ei.ilr.ie-- .u-ul blokify. He invited toe io

search lii^ taw for sala.nl an iKts

I t was tike mher Urgi- timwonc caves of

the t i^’irk ri'gusn, with a i-tM:il stream, uteri-

-1

• • r 1 . 1 1 > i l Jtfnd» ali rj r cilitZC pi 'ivHr Sfcalart ites ttTV I

siaKiigmtfct^ bftfs * I nd 1 . 1 etm uder- In she

beanM ol our sias tu l i gls L%. \vc -aw them pi 0 ki&h

pv grotto EajLtm.tmler*, iWfet? to four fnt he>

loin: sotfie! dinging t<i enve walls others

slitberms m shallow murl-twil turner I

- • BtHP^IkH A-Wij+4 I 3D i * .Hi n 1 ! 'BT-'I

Like \m\u ennsigTiH. tawny* blark-

Diilfnl 5 itL'ixk_- iiiA> bulp dir tnountoin

11 * i HjI pair^t" when itoecu

Lifeirl III lift |-| r L-A ulftie IoIm -tiHkinS-1 riingc

If eJrte ttdccL the rte-Eu -iiiMil markingI j*

W'tiihtlcJ i.ejti'enge a* n tKhni >u4 within

rni h Til i Hr - rr-.iinn- - -tirky

This I Lti i « l-t-?-s fipsdee- .nli^urhs a'wyzcw

thr^ftttfh thy -km 1:l thrives in mm-tApij i nUi r hiiiti e'i

Their t thnugh normal Inlhr larval -Ease,

bct'orni" ! uiit’iai jnli:£s in the adult.

A truly “dithltes* vpcrifttf is the Texas blind

-ahmundor. round in we]h and unfler^tmind

streams,.Withe ilik! ilbuut lour jnl hi: - lulls, it

has spinilly k^ T tufted gills, and a 1ifd i i . n l:

rt<|uat if hahif I papee* I U4- 1 M 3

1 [ 5 1p eyes an?

dcKeni-raLc. 1 Ur rr.^ult nf .m evolutinniLn

Fucivd i.litrina which these organs unneededin darJuteS* lost their norma] function.

Mnihorder ftaefege H«s u Bttfl

-\ Eiifgr fxjin -.- pit reel arrived rme day ai

my home in \VajiliingtorL, O, C—an urdtr 1

hatl plurtil wstli i. biuloppcaJ stippU ci>m[winv.

Inside was a watvr-fiSIcd mei;d container in

which swam a weird snakebite, crtiiiurr nhool

i ft incite Upri$ It was a salamander, hut mith-

ini* like the mure h final terrestrial membersnl i lie order ipa^v iDT'f Thi> one muld bile,

1 pit a pair >hE hr^i, ^ j* Li i Vi-- wont out tu the

garden, and emptied Thecaji a cri'iiiLirr and all,

uitu t li sl £ru>> I In- ssdapnomJrr Fuid limp*

. -ri« Ii m.iSi] breiiiln^ w ith l-.lh; t"

5

LtrrTti ll> I

picked up the writhing, upping ammiiJ and

examstu'd jT^ ( ivo pairs; of tiny le#!L TIuaWere m -mid] a* in he virtually useless

—

exolnhaujn, \T--tiiie- This >alimmiKler hr-

lunufij Lu Liu- Aipidmjmidac family, whichi nniprisi^ only ihrec spfi. ir^.

I he niiisi jMijyuJim3- of ail salam^wkr.mmps i- dii- Plot hi id i mfukic Unruly with-

1

i n \it l ! I*'*

- pt' r its < it! M LJrally1

tlf TiFLudJ vi £c, 31

u

are 3 lj 1

1

y; 1 1- - breathiil?; through eapilkmo

under i In' >kin a i d in th*. munth lining Sornu

art iiquaEic; others live and reproduce ex

rlufiivtfly on land Many are so surrilAJ* that

iihtv an fX|n ri T',irh e$ Dr Rii:hard Highton.

who teach-e* jE-mln^y at the University of

Muryltad . can tell them apart1 .ii. > onipamt-d Dick or , field trip one day

last firing "More species of pletbririm^ jire

tfo lj ri r I ml iW Vppalacinun Mhuci tains lhan

anywhert1 else," hr Fnlrl rrsr a> We lie LIE See I lor

the mounutifi nl West Virginia.

Following wa* u ju-pltiod “f 'tudents

We finally stopped in :i tWisl abluum with

rtirfjttVoncL The ^ludems paled «ujt intt un

booLn, pockeied ipLafititiiw nl sitihIS pLi-^ir

b«iginshnuldered rak^, and fikd into the

L _ jyft^TgTr Ju.3f y^' tp T jK: ' VW Jii

- V|Q K-- qi* J/jf- E jijfcia* *jn| x*3S

J j Jpitv?' 41 . jgfdk 4a

,

\ jW C_ ^

W •li«4 - m * J4**’ 1

_. T *

!t+i'

t-i HS i

Ftid«Hu| her Ii.lIl. Iiint hruod* Uii- red-l'-Luked ^iLJ.istUindrr remiutwd'.'i nit her «-.!. l l :

1 1

i

iii^'i! it 1

1

ii Eui- ^.nnlh mi.uLjulErin |icrhips Tn keep them moist

Tw*t> hiiluf-s Ss_Lv^ jiJrr:..fh i'iill'i yi . I mi I hnr i. T -.i nf Enre-il huilHi- A r;irr aJliiliii n I

U;irk rj LZ.I i E i fumeij up Is Mjrvhunl, lpiic uJ lnyrLL LiiiJJi IS >FiiLe> wluffc the »ps£ie»

i ii I Ur. L" I Lb k e I L JU r.i,Til .mi c~L 1

1

£->

,

t hem 3 -backt ! irdaniand it i i rEiiitb*!-- 1 Sit i iygh

itwnjth ineoibfuiih ^nd —yut iMiilhrt in>tam i nl 5*lamanr1er adirptiulnlll^

ffi r > Hiiltnh .«i In i > i ih! h i

114

Jph&

JRf

K

n~ K

jfc.

*j 1 =’ «1

* j. • * . - aT -!_ A ]

"

•*>t

' ik Al B rJ|*' fc'a •

‘ HWf _^L J; t'Mi 9* 9,% :‘t09 f _ T_ -« *Pii * * *

wmjcl> Turning river cwfy ratling log* every moveable -lasir they

^CoUnltfTtdi they MfBtfe ^mn i^l of sight-

\fter £ wliiTe Dick wwit iboimd comforting* *uri of mil tall Lp

see what find been colli," Lni.HTwo ihi-kii.^ here." opi- -iuiWt re-

ported '1 luercd-h. knl-m i Hinder '

’.aid ;liim|J:ii- \nd so the huntrondmied Wc moved on i™ oilier sites. his/her and lower Mum Mir

fits! Dm k noted their pteri^e [oration anti devotion“This ml-l^rkcd salamander & tope of m\ ijls. j^rit t-s/" Dick p©*

loarkcii during on? a four hnldlnn up wriggling hit Sr -nl.i -

manlier that him u silicic rusi -colored strtpc_ 'Til liber to show youii- vuriau? t'ur clustery hm I’m ifraid if.-, ton early in the *4asbrj

"

Hurierl Jans Sfnuil:<Tf Nuhiml Ufthilui

Ttiwftrtl the end of AuuuM* htuvcvrr, Dick rot hi- wish tip .showme rtit-lnu k( M sahiimuider He jimk ttu 1 In urn- lifhb collecting

1 1 ? drop in mutsT Woiuls nit the Skyline Drive lii Vifsiihi V- I'jniou-

Blue Rhine in mint ami,

"1 jWI buff? htii- l.i-r M :i> . setting up roy hairhm\" he mid m>-

1W been loitig Ihii fur several year*, fn u>r spring 1

! collect km ale*

Unit arc just it In ml nearly m lay eggs, mul place them In Acpursilf

'jtfsrt jars filled with biimuy I perRrtite’ Lho caps for wfUrhiiion.then bury the jars under ,l log

'

Dirk c^rhnrinl r licit ere bearing females, mi matter how cur^iHi |>

sn-u^i and iimvnlhl i-t, ^Mom hiy norm ally rn Ibe lull, and qw.mif they do. thtoy an- ap* hi cat the egffs nr hglchfiti^ “So J lei themdn Mu- whole bit right lit-n.-, where Mir huiiniddy 4 iii I tern |ji?ral lire.

iCejpite the an? eh'M? to rkrirtn i l

I

\:ow, Il’L's have a kjr*k.fcK

Dick went directly lo a log, turning it OVef lo reveal about Eilty

j.ir> in which dusters ui eggs hung like bunches nr urjpcs; Thec£ig- um the - ize of BB'> [j. m n y ho I t!e - r hey h ll« I ; l

|reac \\ 1 1 . u i : h rd

and ibiTi- in i

H

l! httmtliDr toft tbie in i lit t^U-t - s ^uii iice, along with tbc

..iilult fL'maks, L'mwbi I umIuu- fta pongBt than carpet *;tck~

Bark Jit the u hive rs in. Lhe OOfa totot Jtifttern . numW j iif vend * t.n .

ceillection duii.% local urn. and other informal ion uti both motherland/oiing would be recorded mid I aim luted for nmipiir.er Jintdv^s

,1T1 li- -if infornuitioi^" |>irk evpLism-d. 'Tan contrihiitL' tn

t?Uf a ri ilrrsttLodin^ o! h-uiv ticiiloidyjtl ami ggojcTU'phic rariuttoiL1- ib lit i in and bybiiduiiikiii au nfFcd tbr cx nlaiioii tof -|hth> "

Lole that evchhliE Dick1 dropped rut* nflfut tn*. dobf in Waihinj^toji

anil T.vavcd from the -ritnew lud hstUemi si alien] waL>>:: [‘CTchniallv

li.iatli'rt With collect in^ gear, ha^-, i^r-. <am pi til: cqoipqwn^. inppand other ]iafii.|aFuTiuilitT: of his f^UUh^

3:!_v own quc*t rn^.r tSir iircvtoUs months luuJ been CTni-iiliLr:thl\

k4?i spedati/i' l lr.ii it hurl rL-niquahled me with thesr ivuiMltirfo],

even beautiluL animjiU 1 htul ciiu^ht somi: ghnip-«> of the untoldrod Imm of snhimiinders Hving in the forroLs and ^trtiuvi^ ami l.*op?

and [wind- ni ro T- thr hind, and my mtml was tin 1 richer so r it.

l ore cpf y uime tn uppuativnt

e

T iln- lah-ii.u .i . .m 1.-

1 Jm^Orrihybrid IttMrs Mil1 bru^hlilui; |dtls iinlothir ehiiratteristlcjsiif iliHarvul

5l*3S* It will rcliiiti ll^ juvrnilr lonlt. p Condilkm knotvn ;i- ni'cilciiy,

all (U life Tht Hj-itich-lum ! .tlblnei Jnlierited tlii^ inut from It- aftcr--

ichh, mo^ly Mirvican salomtiiiderK caJJrd n^okil Is, which in hue Lire

-.ilnn have pflrman,L'rit jnlb- -Since necrlray can U'Hilt from hormpH^JiJcHritWie.t, h \i\ c fi] wri rns* ntal I - injt^'l-eM iu Ii T^alaimiJiiliT*-

with ifrytissiOKU mi jiH|«w-riL:3i JicirmoueUuii . alTueij. irenwth, Uu-y jieJU

wtn whhtr, Itingi licvvloji, uni the iUiEmat^ breomL" nfirnuh adults

IU>

B\ BRYAN HODGSONT

. 11Ifli si mi i H.H I rim 1 1 h i

Photographs b\ LINDA BARTLFT 1

OLD I A II MHOUSE stands bleached and ivi-itry

I in empty fields Once, full Innjj 14m. there were .cattle

I Hint trap?, but now the rorucrib si«s and ihc fencers jrelirolir-n uni mil|v rrkfcet fid{p$ the, ^ illness pi the

West Virginm hilltop Yniir diiUertrijf -iummorL- hit ihe Mrretn

1 Jus it a bur^h intmikm ml .1 Uijiis, 4uu ikiram of the pa^_t >tln lii-lii- Blankenship lives litiu. Slid is #J, tterit wftti arthritis;,

sport mid w^tbertd aft u S’ehte rail. She make;- quilts limit .mWorks of iirt— bold, random sh&pes nf brig&l doth, linked with

InirifLktt* stitches and wreathed with bli^spnai of %ny yarn.MFlumT garden- I rati Vtn Always ^emed likr yom irnulrt

li up belter under a preily quilt The first m ihr.M- Miidhe* I tver4»n, T wai S mjJir* nli! J'nuk it lip w att Ills ' tm mother I'm id mti

4. f/uili loaf my dolfc, tnu, nY dolls Never had hut two sturr-

bmjght li* d I# in my whale life"

Thr worth slTOUK foce is young for a mou irnc The piust is jiIiac

ii the mud I rmitsi With the nlld hra^- bed and r hs- Ended wcdrUngportrait tm thir wnll_

'1 Wos married .d IS- \[v Itusfrjiptf he .*j.w like prtiikil Utile

nr doll In tl)ti store, and lit; took hw T

l

t=4. dollar and bought U fur

mi ] was still 1 1 scu i ynung un We hail u-n IdldmL Four of

itu U dead Wl- rome here from fSarrov, >r over in Virgmm.

lirmifdil three milk row*. mid a hnrst .md a mule. We rai.std

purebred < ;ulk. M3 *on George, be did nfdftt ol the l rad in and1 mfft c k i ca ' after rm liii.di.LTuJ died Bui he look *kk. The oilier

hn^ find married nit VepL ,uid he didn’l wuril to farm no

mo r e Hie n li I fmm s real ly v \4n doiv n -1m t* wu t r ki k lihecat l It oif it,J

I liked ti heller when wr first rome, die rned-cfcrs all in btwm<

Piift^nfs •!/’ fftr fhfAt ijtiU

folftt thn hif? rtf

Ih'lfi JVAmA rTry/irp,

of Tr4k/Afr« H eif

J irLS'fnrj i /jiM

J, 1 c t{ s . 1 WTifUWfl iriuittfi > fr-

it \ 1‘kept} rwfirtt u.\ att

"Qiirr Wit$ a /ru

j.ff t'lfit r j/ffin ‘in non-p

i«iHrtif fawiy Jhrjflrr'icJrTPi/

m^tfoik—ij.h f/f aortrm h rjy

—hitre f/ii't/ (Tf pjiir

e.ihs lt'j’jrrj . CNi 1 j.? /

fertwA' ifej/pafr,

yrf pHf*rrtr lA'tprij'nfTfl,

^ /fur ti*ui hi"f JTPfi.iff.MOi,!iJ

i/fp jfin r /Ar fiofvrr

Nj i7 /j in tin virtu? \*f

tent i\

IIS1\utitnmi CjfflgrpphU

, July i 1 72

1 - .^8

Af#*

,

. JP

i,’* H

1 ferl

tu

*r J

j r.( lHit i

.

jHgJl " Eel

/: trtfrhrft! i putth til *wbrfphten it ihtip /hull hi

AhJif utth irftrnr u riftzfw

.uJi Jirv a .ifrUFfr/ir fjMfrl s^jft'r

& /ViidrfA u/ jFtfJn , Darin#fin diiyjt tit r^rr ? rufi'r

fttfi'/riJrii/. r'%

/^rfA W.*^ jfrv/tJIfA lihr IPUPiJjfliLflLf

of WifAriji d/fyVri^GK'Arfj, mil*'

d

try ivmptithtzjr.i ufoo In tdfiJ

Iwlpi'ii *ththt Wext I If-^iiiiii

ti itrpittitfr \ftrlr

Hw iVilj m m (tmi (tai: Jmtheiti l-l

1

its t'tirijliu'm c niih llw

(lr£'i-nbrttrt\ ffir Sltru Hh'fT

ftthin'ri iuvt'p* by Hinum hi

ifu- i

1

W^.i< h Scat* h-frnh hilliVv.'

i tr rttffip i tiru

n

fntt* >u vd flu'x i

rhir ’\iath,

T.\ rn n: eflr/r t,rf a

fllvftVnW tN U'l i‘JJ «' lA-eWfJ-

f/lr .fiiT-PPP-t WpjJfP'.h ^lll'r UJc'JP

quart \r tyf thr pupuUifbm ,flW-

outlaid tixum. mimy i*f themTii tilths of viffti-itririLftni; ptn'rrly*

i liJ

fftihwd “UuUi'n:

<tripfu'j} /if ihtm ir ihitfat'r llltd

OfUtiltOi'd for thi"ir rtHll,

Wifittit1 ippuhirhiu Mr u

Jfftff m-J, \tintng

It xtriki1 n Mrrrup^jr fmfur'tuy in $waheftr

H r.i Y i irgittin i highhftd* ,

vi hrn fin t/rrfcAv *tm

frtuhd \hi.L*\% tind'

if rl-tfrivin*‘* John // 1 *my

honunrTai fit* inn info i, xmd.

U \

/Vm/r n fos prmhtci.

Fwiii h* i In tur T1 jJiW

/.li'JJl HW IfOf h* A

uumnlmn r JiYfrhrrr ffte

i 4A1 i- .if ti\ r .r i Mfripmf

Mfljfl1 Ut fir?

\p( r(fhtt

life Crttfff in

PiprUfriU 'ffvt r/" hr

ui\h m "kni' trtffn wfoftl

\ Vi i- i-

j

(

'

* tifir*

t

jji'kj I* '

t

If# fi'WrV) —/WNi/c

ifi JtWwq ii'

Hf.Oi'fjW *./ aJijjmic 1

*J /

/prlflp jj Aj'Jffiitfv"

f- 'n ifI f-pr 1 1

>• A freir >m

,

I . J I p. i. o' ft ntrt II .tin til h V

iJ MJi'H/N'iU'.tt fTlffttfllfllfP,

fTjr^Vr .1 rJ yjiOrltfifi'ti

ilf the i i i Iklifi* Cmlt f.

"ihtr he iv youngpt'apfv lit? (i /O il

1

?^ f Vrr

FrifMMfhiJrn uiiti

fit th? rilw.T for thi ii #/i v

tiny i mt t find htVr,"

iiMnmtM \fi

.

SS

v

\t, H t

rlf^gx/r |T|| ffil'.rr thi'tu,

tit rtttoLtiit lhrm t Hint

thtn ihr k t'i Vitnt'.

Wr I'mr fh* humanff'urai i f '\ f,'i n- j-/i

rIJ V

tfu' iiittie:i‘itii (tut \

OttitEP fo i h-ad hvhi Vfjftrte itibi fall There's never been oi ui 1 1 k l

him. and it never will hrM

Later, m the city, ihe package arrives and I he quit! tumbles

ffllf ll - li^wiT- u hrijhl ;sdi i*n[ fr-rm i. M un i-nut ttr-l Vifcift)

farm. VVhj ax? timebed ati.Lliri Lm. .± Elk ami a plao that seem etthi-d

by lELihi irum LUintbi r MTiUunbt'Huiji- you are bufturv for she pint in a |}Te?ent that flitter*

uneasily tiki- eLninunc pictures #>n a screen

i Jf course y i hi Nro hack

T H fl MEMi'. 4K 1ES a if an car!krr 1 \m v , \ n rif h : 1 1 -nut h t-f a l

Wevi Vlrpnia Farms dui (he itertUc LilL- uVvi'lrj^kiiL^ the

raJleys where the lirsi ?L'it:trs ^kirmii-hetl si.il hi Indians

before the Ruvi'ltiiinn WV&isvrm lie ihr L'p^dfirhh where rlie

li^ary nf murdiTntiir fn mil a (euil^ United tile lab«»r tivAvnient

ini i vinleol i:ivfl w iir

If jj; a Lind wlim1 llcc <alrl frontier I'thirs ^ru^iib nvlili HiLh

L'cnturv econoaiic^ la ZOlfKCfltun' runfusLor. There is beftuty

htPti and painful |>averty; EeniU'nes?. and the new bi Lrmmnf»nf an old nnptr

I inn Wc^l i k »nLrrH

"They call us 'hiilhillies +' and weVt su|i] i- - -

Ito !« ;t-.hj«ned nf

that ThcA ihan'i riririvtrib^r Ihfti U-fa;- cif i^ujicuiifabf >mithern App.il.H limn i ii «-i i tultin^nid I'm the Uninn in tlu- Civil War flow

?\uin\i

ii - laiuw thftt one reason why West yir^ima beegnte a

siait1 that the hillbillies rejected ihv ieIim uf ^lnvpf> ? Wh>,the

I'nd^rgmuml RiLil rt'iad r;ui rkdii through, our minunt^m^

Wesl an ex-pt* «feis^>f in liih nvenijl.-.. relarni tiiler a rjtrcer

that ranwv-rl from pfteehtn^ lji the l oalfields io tenchiniE Eii^iish

.iii 1 1 euirsomies Eu several Southern univtr^Mi - N'-aa he teachc*

nmi:nLi[rt hislory and m ymm dimmer camperp at the

Appalajchlan Jiputh hdkbfe Genier, which he fruinded in 196! "h

3 4' Hi acre farm near FI intern

Ih kr.'Cfi^- ihc li'-ni line I i hi* early §eltler- wefe [he Oiler

ii ii’[i. ut ill t. Su.iUli-JrLdi FVe.^bytcrians. Kiaajamc# t c^tahUiHed

them in northern Ireland axioiiiitl I h I Cf as % offer the

rel m-H ii ins Iri - ii A 2 11- r a c n i li f \ of bar rfsh 1

1[ here, rew’anlet i « ir*d y

with economic and religious oppression* rrmn- than -20O.tt.iO M

124Mountain fair* i, Mountain Duv*

iJit-m fled tu I £ll- Scw World. They .ouphi isolation in the hiph'

fundi. and for uom TiUionr < luTidml file :n iricfcpendiSKr and [uti-

lems tii -1

ii1

l‘ l' i i iiHi S srmg itmi were old before Shake ^pecLnu Wirat

V Iranian.- keep alive ,i tradition thru i n-orm WAdiirndon in ITS

praised the hravith crl tin- liiidi Under*. wkc> had given him _i

• iicinn ov-er lU British a! Kine- Mi sun lain, Smith * ,in»-

hna: *Leavr me bur 4 liaunri- In pkitil ufH>is the,1 sfiountxLin*

j l 1 ji | 1 will rally 431 mud me the men who will lift our bleeding

country from ttop dtjsl, ami -el her mr "

THE LESS* IN ENDS, and the chili Irv'tt troop nuttf!) rah Ibr

morning chore-. Wifi w aEltIifs them with affection. ''W.v

we lit 1 same work. You sec the chape] the library - Well.

«>tir kids have built them They (turn lo 1 noli, hsike It rein I . feed the

I

; iTr- m IIk l he C- 1 w . t

;

l \ e 1; 4 re o i r h e hr 'r -es A 1o l of She~e >0 unu ?lcr

fiinw up never knowing anything hut run-dmcii Land— never

km 1w pride in working it nun - one erf 1 her 1 1 iLn^r^ wr tench herr

“All > 1 in hear ahum ApiMlarhk these dhyi Is poverty andipniirrtmv We'vfc hem Doppatchtiil and Beverlj DillhiUicd to

death A 3oi uf us have become ash.iirrted nj nur traditions We!h

there fire itHKtnv 3 or oor poverty Most of our major n ;1111 nil

resume* .ut owned by ntii-tsf-^an- till crests. and have been

ever sfbot ihv Civil War There** been preal wealth taken ivr >>1

these hHk lj

l

coal and timber, but little of it inyvd here

AW1 need new lemterfhUi in the ntuimtoinli tb solve our prub

lem:-—young people with a sense of iheir binary and identityH ‘

The young dvseend on Wij£t*s Kolkltfc Center in lair summer1 n r 1 r 1 1

: u n . 1 1 .

1

1 nuisir fest LV A. Fan Lg- haired yi 1 u th> and hi 1 ic—ki rttfi

1 his mi 11 id-, with plain -vlad mnimhiin folk in hc.tr iUv m \k -onv-

Mt protest blend with uld bid lads *p:<nL> l-14 -.il

One volte dmw - >

!

liters Eur its ironic comment on the ""new

liu uni ai niters" from the liasi. These oru she pmplew ho vacation

in the mniintastifi. and buy up iarjm ubfUidontd bv men who imvrhi-i-ri forr n| 1 1 . -\'vh jobs in Ehr dtiet The whipLash line^ ^0:

1 tin 1 J If it fiim dii 1 Mo it Htai

\l'r: i till if Paucity t-liff

The most admired peffonricr hi Ki at Wright"

7 , 4 retired r:iil-

roai !m^Ei 4m low « wha-c Jmtreir^ am ? apple ll- bird witip3 an

bmijh Li ltd Fidrlle Hr pLa>> \hr olfl ^rs{-—"Onmlieff.ii'id Hap.”

“Shady tirn-vr-^ “Sions lJ

i itnL"—with 4 (ovful daritv that breaks

p'

ifVI1

P/1•

11

Beiinu k ttdiiithui

tinJyrpirts m fj 1 ilftoi tit

dte } t\IUife C rwirr

E rrvfu?t of Pfi^Ny t\

fotsrrYnrd 1 frtrtef

Ilitretor f>irn Uvuifaring page f help i

./j .Mititiiin \HtlUhs ffiirtt

fhr kitnirr pf vf(f-

supjsorti *iv iJ vn'f tihtif*

I I rf the t't'fl/W i

t}i re fay ft 1.

-I rlffn 1^/rlF cfni/ li

mi nittier rumpatnhiiii'f \hisre the

mrfm ir to ffbiiim? 0

htif of hi aid-

UeU'din 1 tear oudJfxi eh u\ u ffhmtittAtt

hr ffnw frnn\ Hrr

hint i>f ^rpHiuT}\ riTlriAirj

* hi vtr Whitht ii* ft}*

}E

i

ii

.Hj>rr til Bi% Ore* t'abm\’,

\

\tn uses i elf-help—

a

pmt ti{ i\f < fi'trd ihilt Jlrl.l

S'lWtuhi'eil itf

fmufTijMiteers Yr«rWr-

filwjt'i t'il liSilir i in .wit fiil

ftt#f}h(rul I'iimirtumiie-* have

farmed n wi*tp i owproiTh'es

< 'hi i hi -trtf 4 ifurii Mid Ehdultx imp) bring in c\Wrti

t* 1 mi'ttrtti-ry fhriH‘>p ifi Stirtttii'ifii , tjfhiii

'

tituf upjdtqmrd gvivtis 4jft l\

ti\ thn tun ing pngi-h

pt‘\\fm f nj l(*0 ii 'iJrtjii/j-

tujun \*tj'

li'rind tof fljjr OerJLi’fnh firing n i FTfm Jr

SfrtW in wi nrhiw fofMkpir

suddenly into b#rsb rniizts uf minor note—-the ^luntsumi: vakr^E '

that makes murii %etm in mme from limes anti [ifeice^ Utsi

Th^to old litifitrs, in all these- year*. 1 hunk (hr Lord, they’ve

never koi Yl] 1 laiLiLihi't pii k Made my lirsi fiddle mil of an obiKOUftJ—CUt a liole in the top and -.truog it with twine? and hui-c-

hair Von ean’i (cam the told musk readirf notes Von IMdJi in fclife

nm? am! T'other fsddlinV and if you warn to learn, you’ll learn1

ASONC IS THE ONLY KITf \Vl\ fur John Henry, This

ItoEWflttluty black man “fifed with a hammer tn his hand"L. white outw orking a -si cum drill during i ^n>i nn. i l. in uf the

Chesapeake {t Ohio's H iur Mend TunmE near TakotJ m tin? early

l^y rj, HU grave is unmarked,. mt many bdieua he wil- buried

in thr tUtitid—siLing with more than ;l hundred lormer slaves

wheedled h'>- il! llslmm- |y hi ilea illy mvhfalLv

Will Fnmta knew the tunnel well Fur JC year- he was a tf»i k-

maintenanca- man before a near-fatal luij^ ciilimi'nE farced him lu

take Us pension i n 1 'M7, He Five* in Big Creek* above the Jreen-

liTter Kivrr nmr [ linton spaiie 146]

"They had strain engines Mien Thai coal smq-ke could bend afi ller over l oughijV pretty -ond. Afraid I ain't much good far

Wtirjdn’ any morew

E I St- breath CQkitts hard .if lit' -him 1

- you hi* burden planted in

',"‘

| -i , i'- "iu> nf b,;,n- (Mil !•. m-[

lomoioes. .and ibe tiny labaccp patch whkh b has pride and on!_v

1 Usury. There is a pt£ to virii. and hvn l mv* Co imlk The spriitjf-

luiLi-^e i- uJEeil with home -canned Vegetables and frtdt*

Bills wife, Heleti. U ulu untii^ftk miitiagtr of itu- Bie I reek

SewinLi CDOpcrattve, otie of 14 orRiuiutd in Wl-ss Yirjini^ bv

Mimnun \rtbA|t§ 1m This nonjirnht . orporatioit st4rtfrr.l i>

i

i mm with .tn n ffiee pf Eionomjd f faiwrtunity ^riLni The m-upWorkers sew inuiitioniil q hi I St .uid pillows ahrl also elepant

iiudlrd evenimi BmiJ pan hwork whu'h tfimmandhi^li-fashLun tn bfftHdiy bbudqu^L Helen has *trutie ickwabout Lite dignity of tabur.

Jn me. Jurrl \tnrks (he only way an henost livutct eumvs II

y ' 'ii ktefp on goin* you 11 i.Qme -uj' somt whs re win on the end nt

ii We'w mip;ht!

pear liveil tout oj ouf garden Sm^ of llme^ butwr'vr JieM'f taken a

\k- n n\ public monev \W itwd work in

W

e

si \ i r^in ij ,ml w el farc Vnd smr thing we m- ed w jr *e'a i in >

-

thing Li education^ io learn whit we have and what ft?i w!

i,u!

l[j.

3' here's been so much dial's bei-n sold for sueli u I title bib the

coal nnrl ill yet ynTnrbcKiy's made a |jreai profit off it Jusr like

rmr SiiinHwnrk, we r

ve made <jullts .ill our lives mr eight and len

itul liirsi ntjfl now we re Beilin" .i ^riMiier priee >nul ni cm Thetrouble with a Jut . >i people i- Lltcy'rr hMikin' for t laaqer wiirlttj.

Hivl they won't make the effort in sireu h I E c: uur they’ve koL”The world -erryi*. nifftow indeed it ^ambtafli, ten miles north

uf Ihc hi i nans' farm. Here the hi lit I inn u | darkly ;d n] ve NewWlver I he a lim-l lm- urrif- you up a tv.' a sting rourj thmiu+H

mumijiu mist and gjuiuitf ov^r n finnl ridge lotto a jfaigit vMv\At hr-t the scatterimI hoifu,^ are neat **& plots tiff level uroiim!.

and the children cfmtiber solemnly aboarrl In warm coais grid

new shoes Farther to$i P me road heenmej a muddy track ' '••rn

-. [firs -annuals on eroded slojics^ mid the homes ruflefl ihe

I.-. in I- rhin iimiri>hm;efii

. Here the children wear fftderl roTtnn.

U6 ,'Vai Ih iti Qi' (fmgn sfi isft Jnh il/72

[l TipJk T kts

nm1

1 2S

i/tini-w* 'ti bnunr> farttimen ttf atiftftt#

dry i

a

; w \hfii m3 2*J

Hifti'ihumht'tl

hymttbool h*t hreHp&AVtii #| d| thrMig ft

four {*i'mruthm \ i *f

it i« DtTviduw family of

( n.thi .% Util ft ik'tn hosmdm \?athi'i frtji i/v tfti ChitWtff hy Harm thirtdtom*

u xhiwrtitikpr uiw boUifki

hh frrt'dfjrn frpm thivrry

VphotdUt# it jl family

tfuditkm at Inifapwtttlftit

ifit* vhtw 'iimh±'

r

,‘i jfirfts-grrar*

ytl&tddatitfhuv Aruin i

ffarknvl ptam rj idw ri.t

ri iffH-frr/ wrJtrr.

/j*r JUM f./

gttttrtiiifiitix Hvr.i i i/j

ihi f fftofa-.T ffitf( 'turn It

iff 6W (/(H%li'filSftf ' /.lilj'jJJ* mHjjH.Vr

Silt fi" r / '/hcrncr m wtt

{trftti ht 1

^

ypffflfl/l. //[Ti' .1 ti e‘ dtlJp.H

Iniftfh in intrnsr rmtrtion

iifir'r f.ifhtrU»y tiff i tumh'

+

him i find ". iyift' pnrt.*hiitntrr\:

“Oh, ifmhU'f s and .wjrfer ^

W?]&k¥1 l\;rr il \ I U ft I If \ u 1 %

Cjpic/ tt\mh l Hie da\ fmtty ft* n'jmvr in!

1 30

and many art bare tour Tlu-v am silent, watthfuJ squiireU*

jiH you feci doubly a straniocr, knowing ihm your p buscaused their *4 i lifter

Thirty minui^ later, in (ho refining gymnasium of Sandmen nrElem rotary and Junto? High School, Mildred Gwiim pircuthemembers of her Head Sturt classs. S.hr i* a ctosifc: schoutawm

—

lllR. AafEulufj with it fact whohi practiced starmicii 1- opt in

rfrnngc abruptly frpm mock severity nm outright wirmlkMrs liwinii has (might mountain children for 24 year:- Hi of

theoi i ti r^moU1 une-rnom Khools Shr earned h^r bmhrlnr'sdraiTi? at night and to summer rLs--v- w Uifi- rapine tour dnJdrvr.iiiit miw i - more than hiihwai iu her ma>(e:K-

"Henil h orte uf the best things Lhal’^ happened for ourkids ^ lor of them live lint k up m the hentt- nf i ht.- huilets—^Liir\

nevxr get any attenitonrjiw^r go anywhere, just pbiy di I heir oWpn

little yards tvilli bmiher and staler* They just aren't ready for

>thmA Mjiyht u fourth oj thfm hiive to re|»eat fir*? anule. l\tseen *n many of them quashed doWu before the> i|ei storied

'1 believe hope begins ^vitii \i?lh fi-^'Piir-okis Now \ve have .u.

chain cf ?m set them n-iulv. visit lii l- ni in thpir find out

whm r 3 is- v ni i’flJm

"We neeil many thinpra, anf] mil n^r tor the younpeat—vfivai-

’jimptl imining fur our high <hrKibi i

s« ttcwl uaN-time jobs to helpthem st(y to school. Only about ^ fiercens uf our pnduntos go nti

to coilege. That'5 ^rnn low. cmd we Jose i hem to better jolj.- nut of-

1

i1

1s

,I h *.•se are *: Iu- «

n

1 w need to kCt p , In \ e t Itc ne iv lead u

r

ihip> here'

U F A

I

A

.

T I T E V< U rX( I who leave are '

.'>£1 fbrev er ThemDuiitLtijL tle-^ i.ire stfonii. On Humacomini: Day, the bat-

lercd old dttirch .ii Cieihitt Hill fills with die tdij otws whohave -tayiu I ;un| the young nnos who have come back Jrn-m theriiiKa for st 'La-\ or ;i week to touch the ptoccs of (heir fiepirmkci^.

E™ as a stmhggTp ynu share (In* dmv, warm hamkla^s amibenedklkins From black men aiid while, Voices zr*gw urn ertaiuty

for the heart of tlm old hymns, and come suddenly alive pis they

•me “We shall meet on that bemnmd diore " Then Sister Flortnnt:

Brown of 0tLub> Pnnrt'Snn comes [n the nl>) jutit' b'ctem Shejsdi e- -ei I in white, with .i white hat that ..seems- a jaunty badge ol

lonji i right)

im ife

Ea, Jm

ii^

-

> ^ * jj,

' JHB

* oitl trftifr th- rpiu\ph

trfjolm Ourtr. kiflrd

by ti ilttlc mil in the

tbit hip n'.ftittn'i hr.'.t

t fttfl Nttfte r opetit tl lJ l

PtM'nk&ftiHtsW 1 irjjiVw'ft, ml&S T MwrSft*m Mf* mi the i'iuitfu

**] iitef m fh f i Nlfr

hpntet ttiiim ftfnit the

hfuwHni' era u/cuqS in

rirf fumbled utftvntitjfix i it

- ?n t hern H- * % f I ifyinta

"UrolJiiT- iind asm*, [praise [hr Lmd\ If you love Him tiiis

aftmiuum uiw probe W Hi nil You know, if wit iit fftill. ilun't give

i !od t hu 1 praise — t hfai when wu go home the I K'Vil will give usagoal| a hijBjsirr., ji nt 1 54i h L‘ 5 him tri

1

Surely t bis is a t |a\ hi rrj nice ,

"

There 15 Optimum then, voir* iMer vopn vnvin.jr thanks, rvm I ilT

tin- rm! i laying im of hands for thor-c whence iit-t-«I brings lljtjm

In the altar

Xfk rwurd, food is served under the irrisSi md you talk lumenlike Kell;, DavidiriFi., whose erear.-erandh^r.hr: murk shoes tu buyhimself freedom fttfra shivery, arid whose daughter Azalea ipageITU sociology at Blutfidd Stair College Vnd there is

Thenrjure Johnson- i black man who Hjw- given up rfty lift- to

reclaim his family':-, farm n BqgILirdFfWeitt up to Tnledu Lo shake the money iiSt^ hut there wasn't

as much on u j»_l though! Twelve years I was theft, hurt a l"r

"i Jute and did pretty well. But The dtyVHkr u vacuum cleaner—it Micky you lity. So 1 came back to wurk ft out here The govern-

ment taught nit* Hi drive .a hullrfuKer, and Fvc heun workimz

standy For yiv years.

"Niiw Ki v 11 .id and my unde, my brothers and me am I riu simr

boys- in our span- nmr. we\e brought back about ninety aerfes

mu. p.i&mrc T com, buckwheat nab, ami hm We go! vnvvrntneiiT

Iolui' to buy farm equipment, mostly used, and we’re rakin'

\ngus ins I Hereford*- and hm‘Tht’^r iDovemmenl programs are good; they’ll krl you op and

.ill vuu have to »k? is. work Thore^ nn mom on a farm for a Iman

man —it vim k-i dir good days gEU by you. yoiiVt! in iruufotr

T l ’KN \VEST\VAHD fmrti l.hr iarmi.mil!- and you cross a

eeoln^cal frontier thui zsepstraies tin* worlds of (om andcoal. J ivi-tve mil^ nut side Prini:etqti+ Piitnafi It RiKk

nuLrks i he border nf ttje nUt Klfit Top OntlftddHere long izrav towns live eti nartuki v.illeyi-, s4iuddt rnrg da%

.ind night ivith ihc pcissage nf cood trains. Dark mine mmithsoml

J J>2 Jwiiottaf C/eitrenpfju July I P72

b-ll

^j

3m3Fji

[ |i

1

1

1 b !

**mi

fh-t tty sfrtitfir hath nides

**' ik<r inif'tb m tttiitJ>

w'Hthifrn H\'U llrxiwti Mu 'tts

H'ftfr* bust mitth I't hmttn

.-I! slump lit K i'4i/ /ywfljfcri/tci li ’iff if HWW Si'i/i' / /

Itflprit bring *ai tta-

dftrrioruttifft of ftii* mrrhn\ tht^t Atil iW((a//i

MtHuuifWit kuafaf^s

lihfjriei i* r r Hrr- /wr tfttokttfy

hiful-foit i ffjtrir

l U\ hafnium HJjftfri, Jkftttmttan Dit si

.4 mitt tl*r K-tttftiriVi' i tr *\

t ! L| * •* p?f lifii \tr*t IViilinn*

tffmy Dm1

*/!

rciffil/r* n/ifeF ^Vknv itr

ht lr toPSUrfrd I'tf'tftrwH

limit? Ut litittfin'i St (Itr

Hutsh^nd ?f it (mirth

flfHrruthm mfotitt# mm\itt thL% lowtt vital btm>*t#

fir rht mIffff ffiOO i ,

4 J fJj*' IdJrn

[efttury, tf?i

MWrirrlf.J

»!> ft

Ihm/Atmtl m tac/fti 2 /

fr ijHrftft f ^wf//j.'w//rrv

fights ^ tL'WfMk

^ frrJinrJ cli tka ta visit

spvntii^ /ai ‘/JTiv vj -m •

,

'/7j r i

^jurici r i pittuully

/orrcr/ Wav/ ltm*l mtrif

431’C’Um tit u'lt i iftl

ttfiit wuji 4 iiWtiv Ortt*

tu.wiimt tiifnnr nghtbjtfi rdfmtn Jrcmtry ||fH* tMi'rtl'fJ, htn

n fnfS vr.:»: bullfm*mtm tliv third fi&ttr

londinfe tipples are h .

r

i ered up the creek*, and heap* stud

5tnp urines sctix the forest stupes. AUmj: twisted mads. miningi .m\y> wear niuncr Ultv Ten k injuries [tin I AiiawidL MnneinsI Afiil

Crum] Her* Trakr, G&rcUa, nnrt Warfor Tt itini.- yo ii clui M't* vvbi-iv it .ill ln-gitn ThT I&uIjj Mint

will- ppr iK'il hi at Pocahuni.is, Virginia, a mile tfuuiliwesl uf

tbt U i.!:-l. \ lEmm.i Line", ll, , jrlik-il 44 millfciM i in- uf ucwlJ in'

yiMr* 'Fin In;. , tourists ?Lru11 thrmicjh lliu 34- foot galteries tvherp a

mighty t\]i|n^on kilted 1 14 rnen m IHS4

lit ihe graveyard ftearliv *i tuml»ti™.j EelU the with the

terrltik ph.-n-.inn of $rh'\ haaxt^n hiimhi m^iHL ksllmiMARCH i)

P iSS4, ,CJ IJM- iA;UM AND JO STBN’

BTTF' IS T3IF-

WORKING AGED 16 V S A j A1.S & ; DAYS.

tilhri c|:ii|.iphs in 1 [ungnriEitt, Aerniiin. and IcnEisn tread the

immigrants who riskfi l daaih in the nr^v mine (nr a dollar a d;i;.

PEKN.^AXV \X1AN^. hsiukpr- ami ndtin^id moa whnknew tin" diomniqs value of ihd rich €im\ vermis, were ihe

fust to dev«]»p Flat Top- TLh\v huiiuUl Ihe Tand fur 7S

ten tv an acre and leased it to mine operators fnr ID-ceiiLva-ton

myally, By ihe Bum of the iienitm. live mil Li on tun- of coal

pniin-il jimuatlty from 4n rnllaViiis. iiml ,M«fl hrvhive ctAc »vpuhitched rvnokr ami fluai.r m er tht- m-w rumfiLtfiy town 1-

Ttpey rnmi irli: i the ^lorydoys rn CtnuiHeell The riiLtnsions still

iftand here, jplifrfal jjl ston^ Sm: wootlw-rk. nml Tiftotj glass

mcimiuncnl^ to the 1 coal millionaire^ who unce lived in this

MiWnttim 1

1

in 1 I \b'Uti!Atfi t bi L '

The digging ftti

fm Apfifiktehiii' . frtiili

pay dirt Op Gttrv

file United State it

\ti el f a frpnnilrnH ^

Number Mlriifu’1 v hnpiiisih'trttftf

mining

pi'jidW'i* tfmtter vjWjJ*

1

1

f 4 •r ll'j1

pi'} iHffp'ArJjW.

f iMUtlttK '1 ’torn' pn 'f.fl

Pirw^i v' fttiM k

i

dfcl,

J>djlf fjV.H? Ji'i ri1

tf.uirji,' i'/ri

ttutt' r ,J ' itf JVV-irjt

i e jjirtfr iAJil

in h\i trifle fi'it

Slitrteiickrd hy

jj/fr'Jio v. rfitfi'd < mr/

wOirf.i d/rc/ an unt-af-

u'trfX vouth in (Jfoftto

siiut'r the plight of irn?

fjj thotiMimh of ihfir

nuuittiiiin kin.

mines in fhr tfte&

•shut iVnir/i, tpffrrr >

lui'tti tu tniiti" mi f..

ji IIrn rd Ur pm k rtp toil!

hui i c—40im /#Pf fi/lW

Jt|7JJr fj<viVi.t, ffJJ

i

1

i'i i i i?^i TrfA- ii'i/demr v*

t*f r/itf r’ll^'T. r

jflf/ir mohlv iii fin*/

rn n 1 hw£ ttruf itn wilting

fr« 1

1

'H-f j fun I'd

inhr t efirt tih'rtl -jitJ

rum draw ^effnfe nr

miidrxi Utthrtt pt'ttunu -,

rJi J'jvjypjj v > / 5U a fiu.Olth

Sinai I WiM Virginia. lawn* about Lwm the Baby Mine

Jnlin (Viaper1

* Fortum1 built Liu* hi$ euppL+r-n*ii'ed lioUJe mMain StriMsi 1 h a a- an. Kri id is- liman who bt> ume ti mfaer lli the

rure «l rj, Lb the PehfT^vaniH loallieTrfs, and in fB]04

shipped the fir?! ^ >,iI lrnin hia new mine mi Mill i rr^k

Hb grandson1

** wife, Mrs Ivlu an I Cooper* lives there *A il

I

‘The dav I first tfanie ft [murin' ikwn rain At ni&hi. with

all the mke ovens nuiti', it did look he||[ih- 1 t h u u

J

l i . 'Ob si-

I'm not I'ofa' tu sta^ htfe lone1’ V ad lujLfiil htliuhL thi> hoi driv-r-

i.i1 1 for me: in a mi SiuU Mean- at 1 ntLurh fainted'

1

-They were nil liitua-cicajliy rich They matle it tttl m coal, nnd

they ffid jmr-t ^ thej phased Th c Hank -ri HranHvel'l wu* iiri-

Ssklered wirof tht rkheift for it - -i^in i.be i numr- i i buld man,

Henry, would Uikr lhr mmie> from the bank fa the train in n

whL'eJIiarruw, ri^ihtjjast this (jorch

"

\cr(ifc tin: street, the ppftjply old fitovit hoiJ^ ! hoarrk'rJ uji

with |.>lywiioi l Fhe hank was liquidiUeil in l

0\E OF T1IK LAST of 0ramwell L ensU mtin. WHIhim

I Henry BdVtrent le.inruil nnmtm at the end ni .i |u-k asul

djnvd. i Ei. mjrknJ Imii yenrs in the ^oaJlirlds a- a section

htbs&, for^tnan lifuI [in>d.ucdou jftipttn*i$or until a (rirL-ulatur>

ailment cos* him a its T1?^!S Mow he iirodutes lintcsione nw fe

dust to i nver highly exploidve >’«uJ dust m Uhder^UlM mine-K

\\* hail a touch uf nil ol iL— -h Hull HE fOtll P IjiyilhU traik, -i'll i it |4

ninninu ihe lutfalg nuseWiWf-- I hud a dcitn.ii' in rruni-

erittinrtrrlit^. but Hu-mV ihj v;w wiiy to team mtnfrjL 1 ueectptJ rn

kniPTv the work il 1 vt:is btiss the men My ureat-grand-

:.irlier T Jonathan Rouen. Oii-lnl out picking rhue a& u hoy fa

Pen nay Ivnnm—n i \Unur1 1 mu of ncw I y mined < >

' . lJ . "He -.1. l kt1 -

1

L-ver^'tldrig tie ownid to oigm hi- mine in CikH-i M> Rrund

Lithir, Hiirrv r worked nl^iLK-idii' his miners, knt;w them

rvspceLrtt thorn* and none uf them fcvtt warned lur m- Mini-.- l 1

ttuty ant hurl nr sitk.

"I tot There’s no qig^don that ^'imc **i tbc Opculors ^ ett1 preiti

rough1 tiLstinmei"- I hc nld storj icot!- il you pit laupht ubu^tn.;-

mine milk*, yon tough t hell over si Rut if \*m abug?<l a limi, it

Wirtiiihirft SViiJr.if>. AfcJtOJJiOTf Nm'vi

wasn't anything wrong- You could hire another man. bill you had

lo Ijyy mother thuk’"

Bill has seen the afltiuU mini? eqrnpfljai.is vanish* until mergers

have Irfi a hmnli u] of corporations in control d the fidd HewpfjeaiecJ the . Dal-markci slump of 1 lur I'WsiUid llu- widespread

miroduciimi ul rttSU'hinctt that triple I a miner1

* productivity

—

twin forces that eliminated ®D*QOtl mine job? in UV-r Yiijmuu

between and U>?0.

Tile re's a 1 1 l u market today for milky coaL the [ion ret grade

Stuff the? hum sn eleclnc-powrr pl.int- Mur Ift a wning niin‘:

lit* » ine*s; theyll hardly hire a mwi IF ur older L" run rhi' ui'w-

equipment Tlif profit guv* nut m W< £4 Virgin hi now.and that's

taken tte life- mil of the towns IVlim tfiifc mini?.* shut down, iht

uld miners Tut dntvri lua—a tot of these run-down coal camps

you ste ate Had of retired miners.

“There's stdE i Ini of Strrmflh left here. This country whs

fauntied nh it Bui 1 w kdiancsng fust11

STRENGTH and pride Hun goes with it have lone betin

thti i'-M-'idud ingredients os ib<? maunLiiiitrr i harac teir

_S irotUiws the mistmt was I'^plohavr ft lien a mans prirlu

wll> injured, vengeance IkWH auntJut name iac ju^tci' I hr

HaiJtldMcCoj feud Ih^hq in t3S2 P when I i I Aase Hatfield

and his cInn .ivc ngV t I he murder on Ellison [latield by luxecutijhz

( hre» McCoy broUtoEarl Stafford, who Itvti in Blarkberr- 1

it? b bloody

f. nuiily knows the story well His mother was a UiftfleliL and -hr

ttW the heermning of the feud, winch I.L-icd 40 years and cost at

least twenty hvV- Earl cun point ;icros< Tug Fork of the Bip

Sandy River to Blackberry Creek on ibe Kentucky -ide, where Llii*

executions hunk place. It h out far from Malewan site iif another

Hatfield mddeiu Ifart can Et-lt you about the day in ' UL'ii when

hi* erjurin, I'rihre find >ic HaifiekL led angry townspeople in

the Matewuri Massacre, w hi i h left w?ven Ikdiiwin-lVli"- Agent

y

detective* and three ejli/tih* dead The detectives, acting .t-

mine spumd-, bad jusl evil n il ihc I'umibeh to striking tnipets at

cuhpuinl from company houses At the Stone Mountain Mine.

"The fir^ men rn work she mines here were mountain penph-

The? Wife nght smart about that fcsnrl n| work But lbe operas n-r^

wanted to be sJa-riri Vm and dfivtn' Vm. and the men wouldn't

H/Mi r re*-

i?flrdirv tj hiv^,1

rci'irffi

Hwr/r Rtj/pp

tif Hit tint toh rri thr pii\

Uf Lttft 12 'ffV wttfl-ftl

hirjp ihlj,r,\ .H i

nv/jr jrr frrfptr Hgtu tmdcttmr *7i*t ihitk

]*tp ii irfr-i iyvrr tiforNtf $»Vi

dftUtff 'i ft iJflV m that rht

/Jrr f/ir jtitktt

Jbf rfiitiffi' I./

i/jji pifiii j. r/rrir

u ij.gri* liui'p niw/jd^/ipi^

/|.' J4 'ihjft

Vhr.Hf rrh'fi '*rfd tit tfu

AVd1

jffj. (f F v

ucuf Afi/fruh'tfif.

"I7iffr<,r

.v o d/mA

rtmrmhutiM •Uj'.s,

Stritii* ftiiiit'rl i*t the

Wfitrwwi Mifi VTCfi n- m/

u’lurft tinldnt?

miners timt etmlptirty-

lurrtl defii firiw flushed

m fi butt ft' thuf Irft

streets iffemt with 10' r

Qhi it

?"rfca/ i'ML't . r . 4/liiK

1

the urthi 'iu.\ In, then, t*n*"

1 .49

Strit Urtt fry Mm * Mnq

after ht tfrixt-

tiulm ' ‘ tut tmfu"i m John

IhiWfM of Si i'tfhm

ffctlfta fta,K( 1 frnpv* to

tjhumi comp*motiontitular ri r* Hi frdumf iiiM S.

Ehfhedifoit t mil fmrtii InII,.

1 jj i m'.'J Jj i F fiitfiMIX'i .1 hi

tiff fhiit xrvtion of fimpth\%m ( hr h * h i ffdm't

thi'thWij umfn^nr.% O' if *

iff u Murk- hing rcscarvh

timiffiim lit Bn Ur}

.

stood fur it, My dm worked I- ws{J l9 hours o day, got paid by

ike totL But they'd iJmrk him a ton "Ut nl li five tun f ur it the*

found ti pca-uridi - if yhue in it \nd if you didn't tmrti .it lilt1 nnipam-.un^r you didn't work

It was. Li tarn bread 1L\ in" If it hadn't been l'ur uild zreens,

wtfd tfone hungry luth- of times-

"Dih I was mashed Lap in a -J; n e fail in ^oi In - back broke,

mid his pc fvis. both tms, mid a Inf of ribs I ' bey mill'd fun-" up in

hi! -iHM-t jtnd brought ham hoim:, mil the eumpam kfcrtd a iv>rtmn

to help *'iiii for two week- fit never nn\ tu .* durtor IV ell

be cured HirtiicJf Lift it two years, and he wernt back tb work. Andwhen the union came aloft#* he wtis read* tu Join

fH I fiH I ‘ 1 MOV EMENT heenme \ h3=i n n- 3 feud in l hr

I iiNdAcUi of -ituLhern West Virttiaia Mine operatoni

_A_ Jdrmm I a -uli'l frontpa O' l ttiTniaariK titled jiny miner who

‘luiifi i fu: i .i1 1 1 1 itiu i

]' 1

tu the Untied Mfn* Workers, They : -ed

t he miner.* dtm \

i

rad s to .ipf>oi ra t 1 heir * wn " c her k wrinhman

1

!:

o

KULiriirJtLT ;us 1 1 u r

i

lj - r measure nf t& h worker'? pnjdiiriinri

Pnfev Chief Hatfield's stand w:.t± hi v.iita. The uitirts upheld

the tfvfctidn* of famtlieft from rented coinpjuiy hnfiies on tin

{pnyitids that miners wert- servant nol irfutnb*, Phi* owuot-

denounced uni tan orL.mizer;- i5 foreign rudiruh and recruited

Eintapeans and Southern shnrccniiiptrs ta take strikers.1

places.

hir three days an jujic 1 *>Jl * a ihuusund rifles harked ntrijs?

Tut: Fork froth the Kentui ky ]iL3L>, ,±r. -.taikLj r> terrarized sn'iiuaiiun

worker^ \ year lalbr ttwrt th in 1,W0 titmcd miners wearing

red kerchiefs a?- in&sifnittu staged a pitebed bat t If w ilb siuie pollfe

iim 1 i>l n:rifTs ' Iifpi 1 1 ie>. The 1aw men usc < I m ac 1 1 a n e el ls n s and ^ 3 rop|

m; i 3

crude bnmbt on the ied-iie€k?Mfrpm air 1

1

1 . s. r .

i

- (iunfitir rattled

am Land tvnt cat its that hi i used \2 «0(>:

)

evictrit striker? mid their

fumd it.-- UynumilL- IiIm l ?> fj^frnyed mine hmddinur*

Rt'Lml.ir \mb». irrai|H w em rnllcil in .md hmki the strike MensTragpk'»i back tu tJu. mine> r bitterly >is>pinu; tin: y«]|pvv-ilo^

(.'{'mi i •wfiln rwmfWHTVr’

ftirhttrti Ittii t Jr,

I

1

tf/xr/y r/m r.i .rt/iy .iA.nr,

v/^Jifi 'w' mi NJ/'Njm

W'/i 1

«. hi v fawn 1

fft it' hfs fiih

hnitfitffi i mtl rrm ru

fjtr#y Ai foitfiir' (jhcfiifi

flt hi.* ifaughttr

Pfftxy dip 1

' a tin t1 in the

futility fnmd—iffif i *f the

pjrrf pirtisurrs hr? fafhft

AfiMi i * irnwW tfi.ffjppfflf

f/ /i# rtjjH'n/ Ar- jfy/llJVl l^»

tt city nr catii tnwtti

roMftoLtt thnt barred ihrn. Irnr; ruiihi'i ifni* in anhitu-- Buisporadic vkilrntc flared in the coalfields utihif the New DeniIfjjslutinn of Fi^mkHn Di Rouncvclt save the umim (he right rn

huh! clef I ions.

N" casualty Lfal wttA ever compiled, bui listlmuies nf ihcdealhtoll rnttiiv \x> Inch as 3061 As for Chief HntfMd, rmbody wa* ?uir-

prised when t 1 22 other Miitew.m. re^denm were acquith .i

oJ miird it charges by a;paniftui |UIty in Mi ngc Cou niy. (h y Angug

i

I, I S?2 i

,hr wB$ rasas 3 i nated on the st tfi> of t he Mr Ik nv r

1

1 1 C'm ad t >

Cotirtbou-L 1 in Wekb—and nobody was sirprteed when three

Baldwin- hlr s ili-tectlves werr acquitted a? lhe murderVengeance. if mi juitii: C, bad been served.

TOI lim ithe r b LtTt le r ;ips s n l be iu I Suit i- and I . nrl

StJiffnrd s.^ dwph Involved* bui not in the violent man tut

of bis cwurn Sid Hatfield After id year* as si mlmT, Hurl

wua i j i< abler! in L'J£j6 bv dilcffids, rsuifcd by inhaling dust from

wind umm||

i r traction un mine hnuLigt tr.u k^. Lurrr m.Ms diowedbe had pneimKicopqsis m *bliick lung — the enutual atruph} of

lung tissue frntti exposure To rnkfn^npir (Oil partides. for year:*

Lhe disuse whs- kimwn only M miner> Mat hrn;i." which impliedwi-akne^ i?l the Iuiil- raEJis-r rhnn dckne>-.

" You'll .-till hnd doctofs tjvho jswKtr there^ no sucli OiiitR j-

btnek Eunir. Tin- 11011 panics Would &ay il was.

) uvt Artmrt kin 1- 1 hui

Lirn nuin rolild |£*4 -it bud gibing to dn with mining. Ixtuok mea yritr Tm win a disability daim< and thryv fought me ev ery step or

the iva 1.1 f

" Will, that #pl tne mad, So we ureLtxii^l h lihi^k Lun^As^od-Wv -I !«. : 1 .1 I

.': ki .11.: -.1. 1 IJ pi<kvi 1 1 Ur- of i. L i

-: l I • I I

miners ami widows. Tim compLinles fouaht us, Ev'en lhe unton

FoUEht us r ’ l"e i 1 E Mir -irjkt wsis Etin wr proved it v. rts IfEfat

to sth ke n h -lifety Vie ^ ^ li liiiic: k -1 un a com pe n.-nl ii u 1 Luh

|lapsed

bv lhe stuii 1 le^inlattoT. itnri ihrEi wy lubb ici! in WasbimLton anrl

«ot a federal Jaw% too, NW iherr's more Lhan * R.c J{3C) mirtrr& andminers1 widows drawing eons fieh*ip ion for black lung.

"The miners hnvt luen ton infl Whuievcr Wr'vo been 1:1 vtm.

thai^ w ii it u'iVi- 1 " ij k . urn I said midi in about st The sunjiuity -rui

ii etiio) die Work, wVn- pr^ud ol b l kumv 1

'

1 1 rathtr In- workm’than titlin' ben?

"But if a rutin averts mashed up or dtsabtri;! before he1

- 55, -rrliirc-

menE qj:l\ iier

U kis±j la- hi^jiiLil c;ird niter four s lj ilt

—

tfmi mean:-he ajid ht riimily sini to eo to public welfare if be caiyi work. Atm I

hr won't ^et M nm^nn §X all if he hiWi put 20 years in.

“Mtfftt und more ymtnger men arc edim' disabled imjny. Themachines diu >n I;i4 (Itty -Jun'E tpvf iJn mutt n l a in a chamC 1 e

scltlc A lot of nieai arr heiit« m.i.^ht?d by roof falls at the J .n v Andthe rvmdune* kn k up a [nt mure ditet than hand tniniiiu. sc» tin:

) mmLrer ope , j-l: 1 [nure exposed to dust dkefise 1 Lire -m ri nf

tit thing- that dun'l cet louiUitI in s laci price of .1 tnn of coat'"

Coat mining i> t.be Natlon p

s most h3iBit!i>us industry' Last vc-^r,

e 1^ 1 ! tneri dicil and more "lian l L +tXXi were injiiird—fiti ttv’inagt -if

4? 14 Injuries per jnilBon man-hour- But iLl- humanprice of roal need mu be so htEh In lhe IJuitol ^Juicr Steel Curi-iiriMnn mini' .it iitvy. Wi^t Vrrirmic^ a long-term :-.uer^ proijTiim

ha* ri'dui fd lilt iniury rale to 2 7 *—rtitinl tn» that of the rountry -

ssfHt i mi ustnei.

A 1 ifluj Gc# u'nyi/j \ 1. /jjib ^ V ; 7

h »

H-T1 H/J

1 tv|v

r- .

j\tV 3 7Lfit * 1

Ki_ 1 1JK

L *, i 1

f' Ifif-“UK x J

.

v' junp

WiUitftf?hf t'nt'y (iff ft rtf if

ft* if hattjjfo foh rakiU?\Yn m

a }truth**] *• find

•'ll r hf**th* jr Hi'nfpm!nn fJittHpin# ftr«j.'i: Jtf„ -t/rrirr

th? mmtk ‘if iktfir htrittiffr

* i if 'ft fkf tw}*£ iff' 'oU

th#ry9* htff.t ut the

Pipc *t*' rn ft ilk fi1

\ fh tft,

Hu: t li i; re liit lie ctimfbri 1 1 . r L : kriim'kdiSP -is 0014. waJkJniwh-liacked. in a glm*! H tiiiinrl <« J

! inche> hitfli, Muw rmh-^ inside Ltie

kdl> n| i l mminram \*nit t-vi-- diuiMn cHe thin iMMmoi vniir M-uil'J. LiFiifK mu 1 \nt

i iliru h ham lint hnlr- iml iltirbcifs Ihnt upporttJtr rotif, irniiliiiiadv fearful ihiii tuudii^g them wutiiil wimehimilifturii s. hr uriFjitaErii’tsilJt' ivdj>frE <4 stork! nixnv Tlir iaol. dnair has [hi- faintly acrid bite of hi.lI, junJ ir mmffjisi iti t'uur chrutii

^ i - h b hi- drymsi. u\ you* >w;i[]mved nppruhriidMiA t.l,i(tiirlnic electric rat! rm lias brought yem to thi- md of ihi.-

3 44 \itfhrfttil t*ri*vraphi£\ Jut\ 1^72

mu in entry funni'l of Number 14 Mine- Nnw \ ou .iri? in itse W'urfe-

inji .i n Lii H w litTt a af inMsruvtifljs

|iu->-i±:ew

ravv dtvidr- tlu*

-fitm tut© Works piltiir' \ * i

&

Illie c ^ i n\\Lrd fa

the i iiif

k

lh>

'

tn reach the ftkkennn hjjhts of the men and mm films

Somewhere fttatfid.tlir rnnf * albltseS Thun: te little ntJise^fl^y

ihr m r| i d ip i : n mention npin?t your fecit find a rumble tb-it

i ' drowned b\ ymu hc-cirl,j- -nr I den ih mirier

The Tnini'fTs jiay no ntt^nunn They “mljhw£ sitlJai-"— a In

last nirfi before hark m ft ul«w ureu— atjd Lhe roof fall in

145^rgOrlttOI tWii \ \!*rtii\tiiitt ^JiJM

uM'tf frirJ&rflCMfA

ir// rrliarti

UftTiitflmfii *'t\ J{<' it' it

ami Biff f 1

1

rriti ttf fi\v

("Wfc Affllh fiiTJ-.Vl.

Hm hi'lph mttke c/iift

ttuu'f H i tt kin# f*tf u

ju-tuV?^ rtMtp, itftmh

k&fami 4J ftytt 1’.

1 \i) Jt'ijjj

uil- ! iJJJ fftf-

- ^Ifir of' frrllfl

Jufir. fft'r hitihtjrTtJ r Li

t't'ttf,rtt ivjiVrtJJiif rtt(T/r.

irftftjfri urhli/ .T/Jtnr.tfti

utrJ fiifh* f trjrri

i hi Wrr itt fi'Ht >ipj|j7.i

i

thi* iyi .i ked^jut *iri.'u b ihc result of good mine engineering, cttnt-

5 mil inn the l Imiki 11 nf future utriilcrtial cavc^inf*

Tfc* -i‘i rn-nmti SC'ClIor. i r,.- wftffci In dU - n c. Their ltadtr ills

5 ike j Grand I'rix drivnr at ihc nmtTt»h of die I at Ncjr-c corrtin-

- miner ;i -.r411.ni machine (hat slashes at l he flittermg roaJ

face with wbirli!ig hit- mm .% movable boom ftp rnnvcjTw-belf

im min ^ick- 1 hu 1 ii^-crtritfip coa: over rl_s iiwn bin k tuid -in-w- 11

1

duo a “diualu l-ugi^/1

wttU H 1 iiMes M\-t£ni Jmid* to the central

Startler muddnc* can work in seASti* only 10 tip he ^

high 1 tv r rlnvNiL- 3 fr reel 1 n t a 1

1

eh seam,

I he SD >: U'nX ' mack 1 nolumber ;iua> to another iljcls. \ Tiin'c-niiui rnju swiftly uvUall?

nk- hi -nj'iiorl l lie ronf while I hey attack 1! wilh yammeringdrills and dm it fumr- in jifafdfnoL -h?el $%p '

! -inn bblta to ilk hor

EIn; vx,

ph 1w £ ! •> f ,11 v tii- m 1: 1 re 1 did Iaver - abt 1v l

u

The ftire 1- ihc i-miu of gmcioi danger NiirwJy bared rnofeati

cull \n?ii without warning inrl 1 careless movement cm’ the eyner

bits t;i3i Strike shirks from i hr mrk to ienilc rlr^uily methane fias

im»tni in ihi- cd ffepta* Hu^ fans tun she mouniuiii^idr -m k a

rmllitm > uhk iVd nf hr a minme through (Jse mme, 1 li tut in ^ and1 Ira wing ou.1 in 1 1 n -

1

h-ttri two mfHi 0 rt etihk feel of meihnne each daCool dusi is s he i:teadlic^l em-nny of All Floe particles in ihettir

can be t^nitud liy :i *ji»rk 1 he nq-ilosftin will jiropa^atu

itself wherieytjr iherc 1- more rltjbS. dnfltTO>iog everything tti fUs

li^rJi. like 1 mhrhtv puwder train f'*i iifeventlM^ '-quace

iEn:h Mt tbi mine 1* coated tL-euliijli with ttoninlliunmaljk tims^-

Antw tlit-L WliFTi’Vpr cual 1? mined ur trsEfeforred to convey nr >.

water ^pray^ fun her red life rlie hm^crl

AS YOL- HIMRD She "man trip" for the Inn^ jinsmey back In

% dpyllgbtf you retaefobnr tlw B.iorit^ #f iiic \Ad men. nil-

jL. m year velerdn>. wbn blasted ilie -eam> with gun|mwrrltr aflfl

-hovtSed \t inn - .1 day h- hiimt intu mule drawn car.-. Yuli have

fell tlieir prictet fiddly nti^ed wills bitterness that seems hahregrel for danger ?xid injustice shared in fdifiWihip

Allt! 'on rttmetiil»vr 1 he Hbtck Book ’— u 1 arse rin^ Irirn ltAr in

ihe black- lung research ditiic m Ehc ApjMd&chiJUi knuriLitirtl Hi"-

jrftil in Beckley. The ttCe cellophane envelopes containing

ihm sec irons of Eune tissue takeji m LLuto|idcs of hundreds id'

udners. In each ryf tltrm the rlelicate tracery of air ftas^ag^ hdarkly cached by embedded eoai dii^t

Saw v iU have *®en the hlftid. favcoou^ mai liim1

.^ gobliUng .U

the nn^ii'i.Liii^ wealth* op$imt«iel by rrum whn earn si? n dni

Your stMTch for the post lias In 1 \*m inexornbl} Eti iht (>re‘jeni

E he car raUntes nn Suddenly it passes a 5iiiatl room cist hitu ibe

lunntlY aide Nine men 4 i there, 1 heir bead lamp^ cr-^tEinga pool

hH warmth In the L.rru> gloom. Thry arr ciiilu# Juin li. riilkarig

qujetS>. Their bead* sirtfffi InwEiCfi you briefly* blackened fat

wlUcJ-.iu! and ini]jersonni. anil iheti turn inwurdjiiptisi. Whui they

iur Lottie, \ on wiN never know., arid > on feel once a gain a^lrjmger

Ymu have proven y. bui found Among rhif people of 1 tie

mountair- u. strenjith rincil end ic tun 1 r ihiU mukt- >> nspiaJliy sen'mi

almo>l 1 ondi j.-a ending You have admired whal isolation ha.-, prr

served- -and Irecits appmUril ni whHt il ha^rnot And jtuj ri«mem-

•ilt hi" |i,Lr 1 ing word?- of Dir] tYest

"Tlicv ojIE o>ip

row's people, ion,

vestefdiy ' people Well, maybe we re tumor-

0

i-if. \ttfiotUti tjunjfiiftfm , Jifl 1, J

4f~'

Apt u.illy. khvy'rv Atuli m u ytitiing; dour*.

Doan* that bring IntloOin andttUMlQip L^F>l:hcr.

Yiiur pntb IwiMttnfcft part of voqrMlrhra.Y-frtij' pnol b^nrnpfl jwift of ynMrbwtrwiia, I tL-

&l Hf and cm_lL bCcnrl u n I I i v i.1 in TlStl: i'^- itsy

On tin: fiLitiM ytiu vs n ifcnj«iy liar wwni

sun fur Lpi'Rakfut A cud! tanwit' fnL' ilPtllliT-

Tin 1- inmjniLe •» i r u N l f li 11* moon nm] fl

rtphU'aU <MI a warm. fiit crvaiUM. Anri youKtlll hut ' 1 VJUSy LfcL

,

*J-: - I Li ynur LlVling IW"

Isitrhi'r*

Without Tisiug y oup ini i mule c nn ear I,

vl Jill rmiur*1

,A Hilton Wftl.Jmu WiHnw*

-rf-il mil fqgl ™ih*r flsvrlL Made nf ^Tum*uni y .1 i wood, itlwuiiiiirui liiHit^ek^i^riii^y.

WkSris ftui liic bitLru» wjriij dnrinu: jtlus MhtaL*.

Mi^uliihrvii and u iher-

M i hi Ihsi'iirf in pier mil cut hejut lo&a aumtim-tmJJy., Tlid ieirtpmaj rwleLpl i*t#iild.ttHi^ idtiNt

aJwi rliti-k-' 1 omiHiwadan iiinl f'rpl 1

.

if ymi want nisi .^ivinncr-/ e** }zl ill.mpdaurs. *eH«w the A luI unji1 m Prrm44£bldKlVV ;i I hnu r W i futon I I

• 'I l w b w$» \ h-

i HJiiicif, vinyl icTilii liur wmn't m--1 \mmUllri£* wijvjUn*],. pffilirtit Ji*d cwrmffkm,,

UfO.

i. ifi.MV 1 1 Lf 1 1 :'Lii : . r

i

s , 1 1 ;ii.i-mr Amlpi^n\VitlkflUi WiniLowti . n-i" ifiur I •.!•>: ui l urnher

tlvnl' i He* liMi^l In YWfaw Pwstpi. E>im n • 3 nr !>i i r Inv Lti-pagE fuklen " Uuw to f idGn'&d Wiiufau*.

11

Pin.. ii'wl ire yi3-ar! fr»“ balk l*i liliw ru |ii (chh| |

.~n.ii .i In i j. mi Iliiu^ I ilk i l H I l l ltaAil^l

11 nil l^i AihIk^U'IL CwpnfTI^FTiT! 1P4 3/jrw 1

1

Pi *1 IP"H i|

_J J ijikiy 1 m fruflit ! I tifan 1 * JWnNl*! i

hij.re

Uilfch**

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*" * * ' * - *i . .

LEE MFHIWETHFJ1 h (<, k-

l(

I khz rnrinlUirn-'iipl Vigj'd,

Wflfii Sanfii xiol to *«i rji rtftufo.-i.

Arab's z L iim in sma^inaJuin iIiTrupJi

J whu-lt fa^ciniitirtg world For ytjii I Hi v tn* ..dc

l^v-Hry fash ions thM whteprr of mofrnl[fth!

And guitiir%hjiH hi^li Adventure :n fai^nfi Lands

cl'Ku deep rTtyitcrccs 4>f .in exotir: p.vJ

.

I feri Lor IWnwTthf'r pr^serU-- ? *. r^ili > cieiv

C i

,

ir L'p,i3 ? ns ensemble Bold Lntn^uinjz

Til t-L'i.1 h -L’ r la rti2- 1 And kiiuljc-it tcwidry col *

I inn

wntr: &4r4ii Coventry , Inc,, Newark 2-C4.

New V'rk br-ite I4dl.! ALu <_ jei.il! J. L mt'dKin^dam, a, Bd.£ium.

BUILD orBUYTRADITIONAL

CLOCKSSUILD FOR B ,

FUN AND PfiOFtTl

BUY AT * , *

FACTORY PRrCES!

Wudel 300Biact Walnut

SAVE $200. *

RuNd ft dockto Imaurif,ynw-r own homeOff lor sale tofriends,

liEiichli-Drs andTa^aH ouiLol*,

. AND MOREDo^t-ypurs^lfkits,

move mOdtE,doc hi.

iflipped

promptly onmu:it;y-OJich

gimjrflnfBO

WRITE FOR FREE CATALOG

Vis: r Our f] ftl ?

?

\<]RjORfactory CLUCKCOMPANY

Qcf.it. V 60F*lrh60fl K A I j bj?ttj SES32

4frican Highhind Adventure"\

i>i - JWpinnfHV 71 * HcrniHir J * **o\TJrntJHr 111

3§£ KlI-PuiL'' dflti Tp^ril 'lilKm.'l P Jirk

diH ,' jlin’p hfnk ifFip Atr InJflfKi U^Ki'iA

^ UGANDA ErmdaljiPf, Lni- h -

n

* i-im*.i

MuFLlUiUill K.'l - U ! j Nil*, f'JJ 5 JrM L JJ-‘

T AN ZANIA l r.i .iiy u 'Jgi.n. ujim. '.ip.

Arinhii, ^.Hl^niwiium, Ndmijrirc MrratH Ti^rti

Wm Gft we i coi o h f ul Ua h *6 TS i sc * n i r villages*

sr?iia 1. ii‘i«tni.F ei'i M«hJwijm nl 71

1

*FO"n N*k Vim1* F jllv CKt’onifliJi

Wrnu' 1

GO! AAS '."JORUE TRAVEL" Vi VlrfElrw’ift ^Icttur c. hwi^n iN.ri"

l:nr- Jifi ;'27?

J|Pec.SJ>rv

^ill l'M

^iiar

61hi

450 TraveLodges.RiIpb tocationi. ficiiM-wft— 1.11 youhf!*id eg kflL’jw iibci^i AftfTFIWled^n rn

ih-s u S,Can aid£ a nd Send

rh-ia hm? EliTfic^ry c_u.ll ti;-r 1-rri i ling

n^mde-i

Tr-ivir't-ctfge KGEl Union Cfl 'lomta A2Q22

’PigUBJf Ar?nf| rtlr C4l-«ini

:i J ! .,’

1 1-

1

fix H^ie n

Florida's last great waterfroraen surrounds you

with the Irfestyte you always cfreamed about

PUNTAGORDA ISLEStr& 1vnrth iiN Jf7* htitd djy5 *'Q?ki'd 10 smtry /(j

. -i

n«u

-x .

*

j 3

TKeie g .*n ftplomri spin.! in Sr.c ^Irtd Thai

tiHo-.TO ydut iai t 3n Hr.' ha-- Pn^H-T-

3? L Mfl tmvigiiirtfl mG&n niim* ipvrfcim^

In tiri 3pv£J gpimklec Ip*? c^arS.with rotn&rctjo

name; — Mai&Tita Paln-Eno, 5np frintar 1 ‘ Bdn^Gi-randg

Htf/E Ja Dd'JMtlf-ii! LLfiapollaO land Aid’ foom ici

morn wflEarKatiented Hving innn any other cminlvm RSJidu Tha OpD"! ttincep 0** Hi. 1 1 DOT, *mjrh-= c'-Tv! c%m 1 p

i ! in^j-g^nfiliAg TunshiPHs* a-no

tpifkiirtg trqploaS h a3&r&

ChaFlPC!^ Harbor i* d t?-j squa T-a rr.il* fo&dy

?l ilia 1 1 issues *pd yitpiiHliJi^'J Wl waifei that

i -it rewind* Punta ijfjroj Sftiea nn thr^et-a-SB

H-p-te you oar uve a n^f Mfi^lylo That mlliicil

rh-5 Um SflWII *l fM'dT« ‘ Lift <3wl W»ter-hpffiiw And alwat day ! ir>* rear

thE r? t "j '

j T: r ds n in g f| =nmg =xhi p^hitinl-nfl jfhd vuj .-n (cyrttpi 1 1 :jf IhBfltflv

fl*l9'h6Gfft at iti* clutH

nju shocEi© I he lTE=n»le and mb I fiiah-:- M >

ce r (jfrF 1? oavnmuni »n qtpocr 1

1

- m

-

a - wjU'iHiLwr

ijnndrsmifhMiTfc :> Paik Lana ^DiTHB9'tE9

in ^fsciDUi gi *enttsy, n *?=* S&ulhMffTFlorida*m Oil UP iqufl m finrtil MffifsStttitt

PunTn BOfda JsJes i eammuiTity pr cgafomrigfluii tfwItiNd tty Flpfida MVipo -sponaBatsrtifijp s v* much mcr-s wsits ,ji

r,

\ \i

1 1 *L

a

- j

* -^.,.h,EA Lii-tl-

'!Uj* li.nV- IrA

fill ‘i’-l It tl i Of rhfclvnr1! tur.

^ fZ Punl* Ute- l!i PNri Ion# HttniWlHi l

nimmlr-iiifli CWMjwninHlWl!«ii]PP^ CuTtimi »*niw

rl

C*T-

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a JP

.

" ™ f;.

Do it right with a new Kodak pocket

Instn malic 60 camera.The one Ihai won't

weigh you down, yet gives you oil the

features you could osk for.

Like Ihe built ‘in automatic exposure

control for taking pictures indoors ondoul, Plus o superb f/2.7 Ektor lens. Even

color prints. Or color slides.

To show these new small slides,

there are new Kodak pocket Corousef

projectors(You con also get adopters to

show them on any 2x2 proiector.) These

new Pocket projectors, in stylish blackwilh wood-grain ponds, are only a Irttle

over 8 inches square. And yet, they take

o full 120$Jide tray.

See the Pocket 60 oi your photo

dealer's, ft s less than $1 28.

Kodak mokes your pictures

count. F1

! .< to., luhg* a/!i nil rtix

a coupled rangefinder for extra-precise

focusing. And it uses self-powered

magicubes tor flash.

The Pocket 60 lakes ihe newlittle drop-m film cort ridge, Youget big. sharp x 4Vinch

New Kodak pocket Instama tic 60 camera.

El

Mil never have timeto live it upunles§ you take it up.

Uyj, uc snd away from highway hassle

Rise above the rrronotonous motorcade

and trade hours of driving

for minutes of flight.

Lock ;it 1 1 Ihis wji>, >uu b&ve ^2 ^eck-ends Li yetit 104 days. not £vcn con riling

the plu* days in long holiday w^plqjnds

I hut's ii I m o s I

ihrtf'tf-smd-ai-hiiir

months of potenliuleti r,i v a:,^HMn-i

time-

I he problem is

shat (l GLlfnc* in

I WM-dii yslices, Si>

you slay close lo

home and .Hi St lei

i he lime slip by.

M'ser till. round

trip driving to .1

in ns pits a mere200 miles away is

equal to an eight-

tout ctsij on ihv

road. And then-

goes hall the

weekend. WSsafs

a fellow so do?

Trade- Eh a!

eighbhvusr day of driving tor 144 minute* pF

p I c. ls h i s l El ighl m ll sice k . £ ftm l or t ab le B ecc h-craft Sierra.

\ ou’II find Ihsll (tying is Lit lc:i$t half the

fun of going, .ind you may warn to spend

more lime in She asr J ine f ip.it will extend

your weekend range all the more A three

hour flight at She Siarr,i's steady 170 mphcruise will lake you lu a new udseulufe MUmilus from home.

And whai a way to go. Make your ownroute Pick the scenery thifl turns you on

S-h hi till oi ease vtuwn ftif u l loser I rink, in

ynur quid, carpeted and luxuriously up-

holstered Beet' he i till Sierra, everyone can

relax and enjoy the scene-

3f you re nor already living, now's the

Li mu to Lake jr up \nd when you take it up.

go all ihe way Up in Beech eras i quality and

performance You'll save m Lhe long run,

You'll save on maintenance, because all

BcechcmfN arc built belief ihan they haveto be, Dupre Li a

lion ss lower, tw.and that meadshigher resale or

trade-in.

But lhe ties!

part is the lime

you save, ‘the

lime you gain ih+n

Ldn Iran storm or-

Jinan weekendsinto eunuir ill

-

nary mrnt-v aeu[ions, | he starr-

ing penni is your

ntecehcraH Deal-

er Visit him right

away, or send in

she un-couponbelow

Time i vi start

living d tip 1

IS MOT A COUPON 1

]

II v iflil ill -an UFl-Otlufflil 1 1 if iki'I I t-iir™ la cut

up .a pj£* n' ft-dionul fieagTapliit it sugftt To be 1

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