COASTAL ENGINEERING Sa nta Ba rba ra Specialty Conference October, 1965

AMERICAN SOCIETY OF

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COASTAL ENGINEERING Santa Barbara Specia Ity Conference October, 1965

AMERICAN SOCIETY OF CIVIL ENGINEERS 345 E. 47TH STREET

NEW YORK, N.Y. 10017

Price $10

COPYRIGHT 1966 By The American Society

of Civil Engineers

NOTE- The society is not responsible for any statement made or opinion expressed in this publication.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This conference was sponsored by the Waterways and Harbors Division of the American Society of Civil Engineers through its Committee on Coastal Engineering. Appreciation is expressed to the Los Angeles Section, ASCE, and in particular to William J. Herron, Jr., M. ASCE, for their assistance, particularly in providing pro­grams and funding arrangements; to the Santa Barbara -Ventura Counties Branch of the Los Angeles Section, ASCE, and, in particular to Wallace C. Penfield, M. ASCE, Chairman of the Local Arrangements Committee, for dealing with the meeting arrangements; and to the U. S. Army Engineer District, Los Angeles, for photographs supplied to illustrate the cover and the section title pages of this publication.

All of the material from this conference was com­piled by Thorndike Saville, Jr., M. ASCE. Without his outstanding organizational effort and diligence this publi­cation would not have been possible.

CONTENTS PART 1. WAVES, WAVE CHARACTERISTICS, AND WAVE FORCES chapter 1 ORTHOGONAL COORDINATES FOR THE ANALYSIS OF LONG GRAVITY WAVES NEAR ISLANDS R. O. Reid and A. C. Vastano 1 chapter 2 HILO HARBOR TSUNAMI MODEL - REFLECTED WAVES SUPERIMPOSED Robert Q. Palmer, Michael E. Mulvihill and Gerald T. Funasaki 21 chapter 3 COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY TSUNAMI PROPAGATION PROGRAM (abstract only) Gaylord Miller 33 chapter 4 STRUCTURAL DAMAGE BY TSUNAMIS Orville T. Magoon 35 chapter 5 WATER WAVES GENERATED BY UNDERWATER EXPLOSIONS Jan M. Jordaan, Jr. 69 chapter 6 PRACTICAL USE OF ELECTRIC NETWORKS TO SIMULATE OR PREDICT SEICHE CONDITIONS IN HARBORS Joseph W. Joy 87 chapter 7 LONG PERIOD OSCILLATIONS IN BASINS OF ARBITRARY SHAPES Frederic Raichlen 115 chapter 8 THE SPECTRAL DENSITY FOR OCEAN WAVE FORCES Leon E. Borgman 147

chapter 9 ON THE PROBABILITY DISTRIBUTION OF WAVE FORCE AND ON INTRODUCTION TO THE CORRELATION DRAG COEFFICIENT AND THE CORRELATION INERTIAL COEFFICIENT Charles L. Bretschneider 183 chapter 10 FIFTH AND FIRST ORDER WAVE FORCE COEFFICIENTS FOR CYLINDRICAL PILES Hans A. Agershou and J. J. Edens 219 chapter 11 FORCES ON A FLEXIBLE PILE A. D. K. Laird 249 chapter 12 STREAM FUNCTION WAVE THEORY; VALIDITY AND APPLICATION Robert G. Dean 269 chapter 13 A HIGHER ORDER THEORY FOR DEEP WATER WAVES Peter L. Monkmeyer and John E. Kutzbach 301 chapter 14 ON FROUDE-CAUCHY SIMILITUDE B. Le Mehaute 327 chapter 15 DEFORMATION OF SOLITARY WAVES ON A 45-DEGREE SLOPE Norman Wallace 347 chapter 16 WIND EFFECT ON PRE-EXISTING WAVES Groshon Kulin 369 chapter 17 THE INFLUENCE OF WIND ON OPEN CHANNEL FLOW Erich J. Plate and Carl R. Goodwin 391 chapter 18 WAVE ATTENUATION IN A CHANNEL WITH ROUGHENED SIDES J. S. Battjes 425

chapter 19 WAVE STATISTICS FROM HURRICANE DORA AT PANAMA CITY, FLORIDA J . Ian Collins 461 chapter 20 GROWTH OF LONGSHORE CURRENTS DOWNSTREAM OF A SURF- ZONE BARRIER Peter S. Eagleson 487 PART 2. SHORE PROCESSES AND SEDIMENT MOVEMENT chapter 21 PREDICTOR EQUATIONS FOR BEACH PROCESSES AND RESPONSES (abstract only) Wyman Harrison 509 CHAPTER 22 LITTORAL PROCESSES AND THE DEVELOPMENT OF SHORELINES Douglas L. Inman and Jeffery D. Frautschy 511 chapter 23 NEARSHORE SEDIMENT MOVEMENT - CENTRAL CALIFORNIA COAST J. W. Johnson 537 chapter 24 BY-PASSING AND BACKPASSING WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO CONDITIONS IN FLORIDA P. M. Bruun 561 chapter 25 SHELL DREDGING AS A FACTOR IN ESTUARINE SEDIMENTATION Frank D. Masch 627 chapter 26 EROSION AND ACCRETION ALONG CLATSOP SPIT Harold A. Kidby and John G. Oliver 647 chapter 27 STUDY OF EROSION ALONG HOMER SPIT AND VICINITY Gail J. Gronewald and Walter W. Duncan 673

chapter 28 MEASUREMENT EQUIPMENT AND TECHNIQUES USED IN STUDY- 1NG RADIONUCLIDE MOVEMENT IN THE COLUMBIA RIVER ESTUARY Edmund A. Prych, D. W. Hubbell, and J. L. Glenn 683 chapter 29 SCOUR OF FLAT SAND BEACHES DUE TO WAVE ACTION IN FRONT OF SEA WALLS John B. Herbich, H. D. Murphy,' and B. Van Weele 705 PART 3. COASTAL ENGINEERING PROJECTS, DESIGN AND OPERATION chapter 30 DREDGING - PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE Arthur L. McKnight 727 chapter 31 GROINS AND EFFECTS - MINIMIZING LIABILITIES Omar J. Lillivang 749 chapter 32 USE OF LONG GROINS AS ARTIFICIAL HEADLANDS James W. Dunham 755 chapter 33 VARIATIONS IN GROIN DESIGN (abstract only) D. W. Berg and G. M. Watts 763 chapter 34 TRENDS IN SAND BY-PASSING SYSTEMS George M. Watts 799 chapter 35 SAND BY-PASSING AT SANTA BARBARA HARBOR William J. Herron, Jr. 805 chapter 36 PLANNING AND DESIGN OF A LOW-WEIR SECTION JETTY AT MASONBORO INLET, NORTH CAROLINA Nels C. Magnuson 807

chapter 37 MODEL TESTS OF ENLARGED NAVIGATION CHANNEL AT MILLER SANDS BAR, COLUMBIA RIVER ESTUARY Frank A. Herrmann, Jr. 821 chapter 38 UMPQUA JETTY SURVEILLANCE PROGRAM Harold A. Kidby and Charles D. Price 845 chapter 39 RESTORING A SMALL BOAT BASIN DAMAGED BY THE 1964 ALASKA EARTHQUAKE Norman L. Arno 861 chapter 40 DEVELOPMENT OF HURRICANE FLOOD PROTECTION FOR TEXAS CITY, TEXAS Wayne M. Murphy and Charles W. Geelan 889 chapter 41 ON THE OPTIMAL DESIGN OF RUBBLE MOUND HURRICANE BARRIERS (abstract only) R. T. McLaughlin 921 chapter 42 OPERATION OF HURRICANE BARRIERS IN NEW ENGLAND Elliot F. Childs 923 chapter 43 OCEAN TEMPERATURE MEASUREMENTS FOR POWER PLANT DESIGN W. O. Cheney and Gordon V. Richards 955 chapter 44 MARINE STUDIES FOR THE DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF OFFSHORE PIPELINES David R. Miller

CHAPTER 3

COAST & GEODETIC SURVEY TSUNAfll PROPAGATION PROGRAM

Gaylord M i l l e r U n i v e r s i t y o f Hawai i

H o n o l u l u , U a w a i i

SYNOPSIS

S e v e r a l programs f o r the computer s o l u t i o n o f wave p r o p a g a t i o n I n

a t w o - d i m e n s i o n a l v e l o c i t y f i e l d have been d e v i s e d i n t h e l a s t few ye a r s .

These programs f i t an a n a l y t i c s u r f a c e t o p o i n t s i n t h e neighborhood o f

th e wave ray vzhlch i s be i n g advanced. Tlie r ay c u r v a t u r e i s then computed

a t t h e p o i n t i n q u e s t i o n u s i n g t h i s l o c a l a n a l y t i c s u r f a c e . D i f f i c u l t i e s

w i t h t h i s t e c h n i q u e are t h a t the computed a n a l y t i c s u r f a c e changes a b r u p t l y

from one g r i d square t o the n e x t , and t h a t t h e s u r f a c e - f i t t i n g t e c h n i q u e I s

p o o r l y adapted t o d a t a which are n o t on a r e c t a n g u l a r g r i d . The method of

computing t h e r a y paths f o r the tsunami p r o p a g a t i o n program d e s c r i b e d here

I s based on a s p a t i a l c o n v o l u t i o n t e c h n i q u e . Values and d e r i v a t i v e s are

det e r m i n e d from a n u m b e r l c a l p o i n t o f view b a s i c a l l y , u s i n g s p a t i a l w e i g h t e d

averages. The w e i g h t i n g f u n c t i o n i s chosen f o r I t s wave number response ( o f

ocean bottom roughness) i n a way a p p r o p r i a t e t o any g i v e n tsunami frequency.

There are no s p e c i a l d i s c o n t i n u i t i e s t h a t occur as the ray progresses from

one g r i d square t o another. The computer t e c h n i q u e i n some way I n c o r p o r a t e s

the "common sense" used when s i m i l a r c a l c u l a t i o n s a r e performed by hand.

33

CHAPTER 21

PREDICTOR EQUATIONS FOR BEACH PROCESSES & RESPONSES

Wyman Harrison U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, Norfolk, V i r g i n i a

SYNOPSIS

Ti.70 v a r i a t i o n s of l i n e a r multiregression analysis of environmental

variables i n the beach-ocean-atmosphere system at V i r g i n i a Beach, V i r g i n i a

are presented. The f i r s t v a r i a t i o n i s a least squares search procedure

that i s used to segregate out, from a large set of data, a small number

of s i g n i f i c a n t beach process elements (Independent variables) that explai^^

most of the v a r i a b i l i t y i n a given beach response element (dependent

v a r i a b l e ) . The second v a r i a t i o n of the a n a l y t i c a l method employs a s c r e e d

ing procedure that seeks s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r the best p r e d i c t o r equation,

where a beach response i s taken as the predictand and several beach pro­

cess elements are taken as predictors.

Results of the f i r s t a n a l y t i c a l procedure show that i f about 5 or 6

variables are segregated out of any group of about a dozen, these few

account f o r e s s e n t i a l l y a l l of the v a r i a b i l i t y explained by a l l twelve.

Predictor equations obtained by the second a n a l y t i c a l v a r i a t i o n are t e s t ^ '

against a set of Independent data and, wi t h one exception, are found to

make reasonable pre d i c t i o n s .

( F u l l a r t i c l e published i n Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 70, No. 24, December 15, 1965, pages 6103-5109)

509

CHAPTER 35

SAND BY-PASSING AT SANTA BARBARA HARBOR

W i l l i a m J. Herron, J r . U. S. Army Engineer D i s t r i c t

Los Angeles, C a l i f o r n i a

SYNOPSIS

Santa Barbara has served c o a s t a l s h i p p i n g s i n c e 1782. I t was a w e l l

s h e l t e r e d r o a dstead w i t h a s t a b l e s h o r e l i n e f o r 150 years when e f f o r t s were

i n i t i a t e d t o p r o v i d e a secure h a r b o r . One of the f i r s t known e f f o r t s was a

harb o r study made i n 1922 by C o l o n e l Leeds. I n 1927-28 the e x i s t i n g b r e a k w a t e r

was c o n s t r u c t e d and t h e r e s u l t was severe e r o s i o n o f the a d j a c e n t beaches.

The e f f e c t s o f the breakwater upon l i t t o r a l sand movement has been t h e

s u b j e c t o f I n t e n s i v e s t u d i e s by C o a s t a l Engineers and Oceanographers f r o m 1930

to date. Three problems r e s u l t e d from t h i s I n t e r f e r e n c e w i t h n a t u r a l processes,

a c c r e t i o n west of the h a r b o r , e r o s i o n e a s t o f the harbor and c r e a t i o n o f a

t r a i l i n g s a n d s p i t from t h e t i p o f the b r e a t e a t e r , t h a t i f a l l o w e d t o grow would

e v e n t u a l l y c l o s e the ha r b o r . A f u t u r e e r o s i o n problem w i l l r e s u l t f r o m reduc­

t i o n o f sand supply due t o u r b a n i z a t i o n o f the area and c o n s t r u c t i o n o f w a t e r

c o n s e r v a t i o n f e a t u r e s .

C o r r e c t i v e measures have been p e r i o d i c d r e d g i n g o f t h e s a n d s p i t and h a r ­

bor area w i t h d e p o s i t i o n on the e r o d i n g beach from 1935 t o 1952, and c o n t i n u o u s

d r e d g i n g from 1956 t o date by a s m a l l c i t y owned dredge.

I t i s proposed t o e n l a r g e t h e ha r b o r t o p r o v i d e complete e n c l o s u r e and

add an o f f s h o r e breakwater t o p r o v i d e a sand t r a p , p r o t e c t i o n f o r a dredge,

and p r o t e c t i o n of the ha r b o r entrance.

C o n s t r u c t i o n w i l l p r o b a b l y s t a r t i n 1967.

805

CHAPTER 41

ON THE OPTIMAL DESIGN OF RUBBLE-MOUND

HURRICANE BARRIERS

Ronald T. McLaughlin Massachusetts I n s t i t u t e o f Technology

Cambridge, Massachusetts

SYNOPSIS

The o p t i m a l design o f rubble-mound h u r r i c a n e b a r r i e r s i s c o n s i d e r e d

as a problem i n m a x i m i z i n g an o b j e c t i v e . On the b a s i s of the f u n c t i o n o f a

h u r r i c a n e b a r r i e r and the e f f e c t s of f a i l u r e , a b e n e f i t f u n c t i o n i s c o n s t r u c t e d

and i t s m a x i m i z a t i o n o u t l i n e d . The concept o f a des i g n wave i s d i s c u s s e d i n

t h i s c o n t e x t . The typ e o f s t a t i s t i c a l d a t a on waves and surges needed f o r

such a f u n c t i o n i s d e f i n e d and a f e a s i b l e method f o r o b t a i n i n g such d a t a i s

l a i d o u t .

The a c t u a l d e s i g n o f the b a r r i e r i s p r e s e n t e d as a prob l e m o f sub-

o p t i m i z a t i o n or m i n i m i z a t i o n o f the c o s t f o r each l e v e l o f p r o t e c t i o n . The

d e c i s i o n v a r i a b l e s and c o n s t r a i n t s are I d e n t i f i e d and the necessary d a t a are

o u t l i n e d . As a b y - p r o d u c t some s i g n i f i c a n t gaps i n e x i s t i n g r e s e a r c h r e s u l t s

are i d e n t i f i e d .

As many as p o s s i b l e o f the concepts o u t l i n e d above are demonstrated by

means o f a s p e c i f i c d e s i g n s t u d y o f a b a r r i e r f o r the East Passage of N a r r a -

g a n s e t t Bay, Rhode I s l a n d . T h i s s t u d y i n v o l v e d p r e d i c t i o n o f wave g e n e r a t i o n ,

e s t i m a t i o n o f r e f r a c t i o n and d e s i g n f o r a range o f d e s i g n waves. From the

r e s u l t s i t was p o s s i b l e t o determine t h e g e n e r a l f e a t u r e s o f a minimum-cost

d e s i g n and recommend s p e c i f i c model s t u d i e s f o r d e t e r m i n i n g f i n a l d e s i g n d e t a i ]

921