“II. Mahmut Döneminde İstanbul ve Saray Mutfağı” II. Mahmut Yeniden Yapılanma Sürecinde...

‹mparatorlu¤un son döneminde Osmanl›saray›n›n mutfak kültürü geçmifl yüzy›llar›nbirikimiyle zengin, fakat ayn› zamandayeniliklere kap› açm›fl bir görünüme sahipti. Enbaflta yeni bir sofra düzenine geçilmesi, Amerikakökenli domates, biber, m›s›r gibi sebzelerinyayg›n bir flekilde tüketilir hâle gelmesi, sofradaAvrupa porselenlerinin kullan›m› ve yeni yemekçeflitlerinin sofralarda yer almas› gibi geliflmeler,XIX. yüzy›l Osmanl› mutfak kültürünü klasikdöneminkinden farkl›laflt›ran önemli unsurlard›.

“Alafranga” sofra adab›n›n ve baz› lezzetkal›plar›n›n Osmanl› saray›nda ve sarayçevresinde tam olarak benimsenmesi, esasenXIX. yüzy›l›n sonlar›nda gerçekleflmifltir. Fakat buyeniliklerin ilk iflaretleri, Sultan II. Mahmuddöneminde ortaya ç›km›flt›r. Örne¤in kimiyabanc› gezginlerin anlat›m›na göre, sarayda ilkkez çatal b›çak kullanarak sofrada Avrupai tarzdayemek yemeye bafllayan sultan, II. Mahmud’dur.Gerçekten de ilk çatall› b›çakl›, alt›n ve gümüflkaplamal› Frans›z usulü servis ve ziyafet tak›m› budöneme ait olup bugün Dolmabahçe DepoMüze’de sergilenmektedir. Yine ölümünden birmüddet önce, padiflah›n Fransa’dan içinde çatalve b›çak bulunan gümüfl sofra tak›m› siparifl etti¤ide bilinmektedir. Sultan›n gündelik hayattayemek yerken alaturka usulü tercih etti¤i tahminedilse de, böyle bir ziyafet tak›m›n›n siparifli vevarl›¤›, yeni sofra düzenine duydu¤u ilgi veihtiyac› göstermektedir.

The Ottoman palace culinary culture in the lastera of the Empire was one with a historicalbackground that reached back into the culturalpast, but which still was open to innovations.Some of the important components that werenew in the 19th century were the adoption ofnew table manners, vegetables from Americalike tomatoes, peppers and corn, which werenow being widely used, the use of Europeanporcelain and new types of tableware.

The complete adoption of alafranga tablemanners and some of the new tastes by theOttoman palace and its surroundings werefundamentally realized by the end of the 19th

century. However, the indications of theseinnovations appeared in the period of SultanMahmud II. For example, some foreign travelerstell us how Sultan Mahmud II was the first touse a fork and knife to eat in the European style.In fact, the first cutlery, gold and silver plated,as well as the French service and dining setbelonging to this period are on display at theDolmabahce Depot Museum. Also, it is knownthat the sultan ordered forks and knives fromFrance some time before his death. Even if wecan assume that the sultan preferred to eat inthe traditional Turkish manner in his daily life,the fact that he ordered such a dining set showsthat there was an interest and a need for a newdining style.

* Yeditepe Üniversitesi

** Sakarya Üniversitesi

|326|

Sultan›n Sofras›ndaki YiyeceklerII. Mahmud’un sofras›ndaki yiyecekler esasolarak klasik dönem Osmanl› saray yemekkültürünün özelliklerini sergiler. Temel olarakkoyun eti, bu¤day, pirinç, fleker ve bal›n yan›s›ra sebze ve meyvelerin de yer ald›¤› klasikdönem beslenme modeli, XIX. yüzy›l saraysofralar› için de geçerlidir. Ancak geçmifltenfarkl› olarak baz› yeni unsurlar›n (k›rm›z›domates, k›rm›z›biber, kuru fasulye gibi) ve dahaönce tüketimi hakk›nda net bilgimiz bulunmayanbal›k gibi yiyeceklerin bu dönemde önemkazan›p daha çok tüketildi¤ini görürüz. Arflivbelgelerinden edindi¤imiz bilgilere göre, sultan›nsofras›nda geçmiflte oldu¤u gibi en yayg›n

Food from the Sultan’s TableEssentially the food from the dining table ofMahmud II displays the dining culture of theclassical period of the Ottoman period.Fundamentally, the nutritional model of theclassical period, in which mutton, wheat, rice,sugar and honey, as well as vegetables and fruitappear, was the same in the 19th century palace.However, what differed from the past is that wecan see that some new ingredients (tomatoes, redpeppers and dried beans) and some other foods,like fish, about which we cannot find any earlierclear information gained importance and wereused a great deal. According to the informationwe can find in the archival documents, as in the

I I . M A H M U D D Ö N E M ‹ ‹ S T A N B U L V ES A R A Y M U T F A ⁄ I

Çatal-b›çak tak›m›, II. Mahmud’un alt›n

kaplamal› sofra tak›m›ndan

A cutlery set and Mahmut II’sgold-plated dinner service

(MSA)

|327|

G

tüketilen et koyun etiydi. Bunun yan› s›ra dahanadir bulunan bir et olan kuzuyu yiyenayr›cal›kl› kesim, sultandan baflka saray a¤alar›,harem kalfalar› ve rütbesi yüksek di¤er birkaçkifliden ibaretti. Toklu eti tüketimi ise azmiktardayd›. S›¤›r etiyle yap›lan past›rma vebaharatl› sucuk da sarayda tüketilen lezzetleraras›ndayd›. Baflta padiflah olmak üzereerkeklerin tercih etti¤i anlafl›lan sakatat (s›¤›riflkembesi, koyun paças›, bumbar, böbrek, ci¤er,koyun memesi, koyun kuyru¤u, flirden) ile tavukve piliç, önceki dönemlerde oldu¤u gibi a¤›rl›kl›olarak kullan›lan malzemelerdi. Hindi nadirende olsa sultan›n mutfa¤› için al›nan kümeshayvanlar› aras›ndayd›. Anlafl›lan o dönemdehindi (tavuk-› M›srî) hâlâ seçkin sofralaramahsustu. Birçok yeme¤in bilefliminde tercihedilen yumurta tüketimi ise oldukça yüksekti.

II. Mahmud’un sofras› için al›nan malzemeleraras›nda av kufllar› (mürg-i flikâr) dabulunmaktayd›. Arfliv belgeleri, döneminmakbul yiyecekleri oldu¤u anlafl›lan b›ld›rc›n vegüvercinin, padiflah ve valide sultan içinal›nd›¤›n› göstermektedir. Sultan›n b›ld›rc›nadüflkünlü¤ü, gezginlerin de dikkatini çekmifltir.Adolphus Slade Ekim 1829’da saray içinkaptanpaflaya 400 düzine b›ld›rc›n siparifledildi¤ini belirtir. Sarayda güvercin tüketimipadiflah ve annesiyle s›n›rl› kalmam›fl, Divan veelçi ziyafet sofralar›na da uzanm›flt›r.

Bal›k, bal›k yumurtas› ve havyar, Fatih SultanMehmed ve di¤er baz› padiflahlar gibiII. Mahmud’un da sevdi¤i lezzetler aras›ndayd›.Befliktafl Saray›’ndaki sultana özel mutfa¤a(Kuflhâne-i Hümâyun) al›nan erzak aras›ndahavyar, bal›k yumurtas›, lakerda ve sardalyeninad› düzenli olarak geçmektedir. Günümüzünaksine bal›k ve havyar Ramazan ay›nda daseçkin damaklar taraf›ndan tercih edilir;flehzadelere, han›m sultanlara, fleyhülislam,a¤alar ve di¤er saray önde gelenlerine gönderileniftariyelik hediyeler aras›nda Azak havyar›, bal›kyumurtas› ve sardalye bulunurdu. Sardalye,sultan›n kileri için al›nan yiyecekler aras›ndadaimî bir bal›k çeflidiydi. Öte yandan k›l›ç bal›¤›,II. Mahmud’un gözde yiyeceklerinden biriydi.Slade, sultan›n bu bal›¤a ra¤betinin dönemin‹stanbul seçkinleri aras›nda k›l›ç bal›¤›tüketimini art›rd›¤›n› ima eder ve geçmifle ait birhikâye anlat›r: 1812’de k›l›ç bal›klar›n›nMarmara’dan afla¤› do¤ru göç etmesi, hem sarayhalk›n› hem de flehir seçkinlerini telafla

past, mutton played the most important role inthe sultan’s feasts. Lamb, which was eaten lessfrequently, was only enjoyed by thesultan and aprivileged section consisting of the palace aghas,the heads of the harem and highrankingstatesmen. A lesser amount of yearling lamb wasconsumed. Beef, used to make pastirma andspicy sausages, was also consumed in thepalace. Offal (tripe, sheep trotters, bumbar(sausages), kidneys, liver, sheep teat, sheep’s tailand stomach), which it can be understood waspreferred by men, including the sultan, was usedgreatly, as it had been in the earlier periods,along with chicken and pullet. Turkey, althoughrare, was another poultry dish that was served inthe sultan’s kitchen. We can assumethat turkey (tavuk-› M›sri/Egyptian chicken)was still a dish of the privileged dining tables.The consumption of eggs, which was used in theingredients of many dishes, was very high.

ame birds (mürg-i flikâr) were included amongthe ingredients of Mahmud II’s cuisine. Archivaldocuments show that quail and pigeon were adelicacy at this time, and that they werepurchased for the sultan and the sultan’smother. The sultan’s fondness of quail wasnoticed by travelers. Adolphus Slade states that400 dozen quail were ordered by the kaptanpasha for the palace in October 1829.The consumption of quails in the palace was notlimited to the sultan and his mother, butstretched to the members of the divan andambassadors.

As with Fatih Sultan Mehmed and othersultans, fish, fish roe and caviar were amongfavorite dishes of Mahmud II. Among theprovisions purchased for the sultan’s privatekitchen in the Befliktafl Palace (kuflhane-yihümayun), caviar, fish roe, salted bonito, andsardines are frequently mentioned. Unliketoday, fish and caviar were preferred by thedistinguished palates during the month ofRamadan; the princes, wives, sheikh-ul-Islam,aghas and other leading members of the courtwere presented with Azak caviar, fish roe andsardines as gifts for iftar. Sardines were a fishthat was constantly found among the provisionsin the sultan’s larder. On the other hand,swordfish was one of Mahmud II’s favorite foods.Slade tells a story which suggests that theconsumption of swordfish by Istanbul’sprivileged classes increased with the sultan’s

O T T O M A N I S T A N B U L A N D P A L A C E C U I S I N E I NT H E E R A O F M A H M U D I I

|328|

düflürmüfltür. Konu o kadar önemsenmifltir ki,Divan’da gündeme al›nm›fl; k›l›ç bal›¤›ndanyoksun kalmak istemeyen devlet görevlileri, biridifli, biri erkek olmak üzere iki k›l›ç bal›¤›getirtilerek Bo¤az’a b›rak›lmas› önerisini kabuletmifllerdir. Fakat bal›klar›n kendili¤inden geridönmesi dolay›s›yla bu teflebbüs sonuçvermemifltir. II. Mahmud’un bal›k yemeklerinedüflkünlü¤ü ilk kez onun döneminde saraymutfaklar›nda “Bal›k Matbah›” diye ayr› birbölüm teflkiline yol açm›fl olmal›d›r. 1826’dansonra saraylardaki aflç›lar›n listesini içeren birarfliv kayd›na göre, Has Mutfak aflç›lar› aras›ndagayrimüslim iki bal›kç› ile bir adet Bal›kMatbah› sorumlusu da bulunuyordu. Bal›kyeme¤i, ayn› zamanda elçi ziyafet sofralar›nda dagörülebilen bir türdü.

Sarayda halis ve kar›fl›k (mahlût) olmak üzere ikitür süt tüketilmekteydi. Sultan›n mutfa¤› için isesadece halis süt al›n›rd›. Peynirler (beyaz peynir[salamura], kaflar ve tulum peyniri, kaflkaval, lor,dil peyniri, çay›r ve Arnavut), tereya¤›, yo¤urt(kova yo¤urdu, çanak yo¤urdu) hem sultan hemde harem-i hümâyun mutfaklar›na düzenli olarakgiren süt ürünleriydi. Kaymak özellikle deÜsküdar kayma¤›, saraya az miktarda giren vebilhassa sultan için ayr›lan lüks bir lezzetti.Siyah ve yeflil zeytin al›m›na mutfak kay›tlar›ndadüzenli olarak rastlanmaktad›r. Ayr›ca “elmazeytini” diye an›lan bir tür iri zeytin, iftariyelikolarak saray erkân›na verilen hediyeleraras›ndayd›.

II. Mahmud döneminde XIX. yüzy›l genelindeoldu¤u gibi yemeklerde a¤›rl›kl› olarak tortusual›nm›fl tereya¤› olan sadeya¤ (revgân-› sâde)kullan›l›yordu. Klasik dönem listelerinde yemekyap›m› için kullan›ld›¤›n› görmedi¤imizzeytinya¤› (revgân-› zeyt), II. Mahmuddöneminde saray mutfa¤›na al›nan yenimalzemeler aras›ndayd›. Zeytinya¤› muhtemelensalata, bal›k, tarator gibi yemeklerinhaz›rlanmas›nda s›n›rl› miktarlardakullan›l›yordu. Sultana haz›rlanacak yemekleriçin al›nan ya¤ çeflitleri aras›nda revgân-› çervifl(iç ya¤› ve sadeya¤ kar›fl›m›) ve kuyruk ya¤›bulunmuyordu. Fakat bu ya¤lar sarayda biliniyorve kullan›l›yordu. Örne¤in bekçi, bahç›van gibisaray hizmetlileri için haz›rlanan kuru fasulyegibi yemeklerde revgân-› çervifl kullan›l›rd›.

Nohut, mercimek, börülce, kuru bakla ve kurufasulye saray mutfaklar›nda tüketilen

fondness for the same: in 1812, when swordfishbegan to migrate South from the Marmara Sea,both the people of the court and the privilegedof the city became anxious. The matter was soimportant that it was brought onto the agendaof the Divan; the state officials, not wanting tobe deprived of the swordfish, accepted thesuggestion of bringing two swordfish, one male,one female and leaving them in the Bosphorus.However, as these fish once again made thereturn trip, this suggestion never bore fruit.Mahmud II’s fondness for fish must have beenthe reason why for the first time in the palacekitchens a separate section, known as the bal›kmatbah› (fish kitchen) was opened during hisreign. After 1826, according to an archivalrecord that includes a list from the palace chefs,we find that the chefs were responsible for twonon-Muslim fishmongers and one bal›k matbah›.Fish dishes also appeared at the feasts of theambassadors.

Two different types of milk were consumed inthe palace, pure and mixed (mahlût). Only puremilk would be purchased for the sultan’skitchen. Cheeses (white/feta cheese, cheddarand tulum (goat cheese), kaflkaval (a yellowcheese), lor (an unsalted type of curd cheese),dil peyniri (string cheese), çay›r (a soft cheese)and Arnavut (Albanian) cheese), butter, yoghurt(kova yo¤urdu, çanak yo¤urdu) were dairyproducts that were regularly found in thekitchens of the sultan and the imperial family.Clotted cream, in particular, Üsküdar cream,was a luxury dish that entered the palace insmall amounts, being particularly set aside forthe sultan. We can see the regular purchase ofblack and green olives in the kitchen records.In addition, a type of large green olive, known as“apple olive”, can be found among the presentsgiven to the palace statesmen as iftariyelik(a special dish for breaking the fast).

The clarified butter that was generally used infoods in the reign of Mahmud II, in keepingwith 19th century tradition, was revgân-› sade,from which the sediment had been removed.Olive oil (revgan-› zeyt), which was not used infood preparation in the classical period, isamong the ingredients that were purchased forthe kitchen in the era of Mahmud II. It is likelythat olive oil, which was used in the preparationof foods like salad, fish and tarator, was usedonly in limited amounts. Revgan-› çervifl

Helva kab›

Helva container(MSA)

Bal›k kaserolas›

Fish casserole(MSA)


|329|

Hünkâr aflç›s›

The sultan’s chef(Fenerci)


|330|

Rus Çar› II. Nikolay’›n II. Mahmud’a hediye gönderdi¤i yemek tak›m› / The dinner service sent as a present to Mahmud II bythe Russian czar Nicholas II


|331|


|332|

Cbaklagillerdi. ‹stanbul’da tazesi XVIII. yüzy›ldatüketilmeye bafllanan Amerikan menflelifasulyenin kurusu, XIX. yüzy›l saray mutfa¤›ndayeni bir lezzet olmas›na ra¤men tüketimioldukça yayg›nd›. Kuru fasulye, saray hizmetlileriiçin al›nan g›da malzemeleri aras›nda önemli biryer tutmaktayd›, zira miktar› hayli yüksekti.Pirinç tüketimi XIX. yüzy›lda da Osmanl›saray›nda çok fazlayd›. En baflta, Osmanl›sofralar›n›n vazgeçilmez yeme¤i olan pilavyap›m›nda kullan›lan pirinç hem sultan mutfa¤›hem de genel olarak saray mutfaklar› için al›nanen önemli tah›ld›. Bu¤day, -tane olarak ve dahaçok da un, flehriye (sar›, beyaz, Âsitâne), niflastave irmik olarak ifllenmifl flekilleri ile-mutfaklarda kullan›lan di¤er en önemli tah›lcinsiydi. Klasik dönemde de hizmet görenBeykoz’daki de¤irmen, saray için önemini budönemde hâlâ korumaktayd›. ‹stanbul’daüretilen un (dakîk-› Âsitâne) ve Rusya’dan gelenun (dakîk-› Rusya) saray mutfak listelerinde ad›geçen di¤er un çeflitleridir. Un, ekmek d›fl›ndahamur ifli tatl› (baklava, lokma, helva vb.) veböreklerin yap›m›nda kullan›l›rd›. Saraydabulgur tüketimi ise s›n›rl› miktardayd›. Özelliklesultan›n mutfa¤›na giren erzak aras›nda bulgurunad› nadiren geçmektedir. XIX. yüzy›lda saraymutfaklar›nda kullan›lan yeni bir tah›l çeflidi ise,kaynaklarda arpa-y› Beç (Avusturya arpas›)olarak geçmektedir. Saray mutfak listelerindeal›m› düzenli olarak kaydedilen di¤er unmamulleri aras›nda; ekmek kaday›f› (kaday›f-›nân) ve yass› kaday›f (kaday›f-› yass›)bulunmaktad›r. Bayram gibi özel günlerdetakviye için yufka al›m›n›n da yap›ld›¤›,belgelerden anlafl›lmaktad›r.

II. Mahmud döneminde, önceki dönemlerdeoldu¤u gibi, sarayda birçok farkl› çeflit ve kalitedeekmek üretiliyordu. Has ve beyaz undan yap›lannân-› has, francala-y› has, kepekli undan yap›lannân-› âdî, nân-› fodula, nân-› azîz ve somun,belgelerde ad› geçen ekmek türleridir. Nân-› hasözellikle sultan sofras› için ayr›lan özel bir ekmekçeflidiydi. 7 May›s 1835’te, Sadabad’da, fiehzadeAbdülaziz’in okula bafllamas› münasebetiylehaz›rlanan ziyafetin malzeme listesini içeren arflivbelgeleri, dönemin ekmek çeflitleri için de ilginçayr›nt›lar verir. Zikretti¤imiz ekmek çeflitlerid›fl›nda, klasik dönemde üretildi¤ini bildi¤imizbaz› ekmek türleri ve hamur iflleri bu dönemdede mevcuttu. Bunlar aras›nda özellikle bayramiçin yap›ld›¤› anlafl›lan safranl› foduladan baflkapide (nân-› pite), nân-› pîç (büklümlü ekmek),

(a mixture of suet and plain butter) and suetwere fats that were not used to prepare dishesfor the sultan; however, these fats were knownand used in the palace. For example, suet wasused in dishes like stewed beans (kuru fasulye),which was prepared for palace servants likeguards and gardeners.

hickpeas, lentils, cowpeas, dried pulses and driedbeans were among the pulses consumed in thepalace kitchens. The consumption of theAmerican green bean, which started to beconsumed in its fresh form in Istanbul in the18th century, was very common despite the factthat it was a new taste. Dried beans were animportant part of the provisions purchased forthe palace servants. The consumption of grainsin the Ottoman palace was quite high. One ofthe important grain was rice, an indispensablepart of the Ottoman cuisine; it was used inmaking pilaf, both for the sultan’s meals and forthe general palace kitchens. Wheat, as grain andas flour, or as vermicelli (yellow, white andÂsitâne), starch or semolina, was anotherimportant form of grain. The mill at Beykoz,which was operating during the classical period,was still important in this period for the palace.The flour that was produced in Istanbul (dakîk-iÂsitâne) and the flour that came from Russia(dakik-i Rusya) were other types of flour thatwere on the kitchen lists. In addition to bread,flour was also used in sweet pastries (baklava,lokma, helva) and savory pastries. The consumptionof bulghur wheat in the palace was limited. Inparticular, bulghur rarely appeared on theingredients that entered the sultan’s kitchen.A new type of grain that was used in 19th centurykitchens is referred to as arpa-y› Beç (Austrianbarley). Other grains that are recorded as beingregularly purchased for the palace kitcheninclude ekmek kaday›f› (kaday›f-› nân – a type ofpancake) and yass› kaday›f (kaday›f-› yass›)(shredded pastry). It can be understood fromthe documents that yufka (thin pastry) waspurchased as a backup on special days like theBayrams.

In the era of Mahmud II, as in earlier periods,many different varieties and qualities of breadwere produced. The bread made from pure andwhite flour that is mentioned in the documentswere nân-› has, francala-y› has, while that madefrom brown flour was nân-› âdî, nân-› fodula,nân-› azîz and somun. The nân-› has was a


|333|

çörek, na‘lî halka, simid-i halka, nân-› nohut, nân-›imâm, nân-› kirde, nân-› sükkerî, po¤aça-i gül venân-› mirahur’u saymak mümkündür.

fierbet, reçel ve hoflaflar ile tatl› tüketimi klasikdönemde oldu¤u gibi, XIX. yüzy›l saraymutfa¤›nda da önemli bir yere sahipti.II. Mahmud döneminde yass› kaday›f, ekmekkaday›f›, baklava, güllaç, reçel, helva gibitatl›lar›n yap›m› için saray mutfaklar›na al›nanfleker ve bal önemli bir yekûn tutuyordu. HemHas Mutfak ve Kuflhâne-i Hümâyun gibi sultanmutfaklar›nda hem de di¤er mutfaklarda tatl›lar(hulviyyât), reçel, flerbet ve flurup (eflribe) gibiiçeceklerin yap›m› için kelle flekeri, toz fleker vebal kullan›l›yordu. Bala göre daha pahal› ve lüksolan fleker özellikle sultan için haz›rlanan tatl›yiyecek ve içeceklerde tercih ediliyordu. Ayr›camenekfle, lo¤usa flekeri (hummâs), gül suyu venarenciye çiçe¤i suyu, flerbet, flurup ve hoflafhaz›rlanmas›nda kullan›l›rd›. Özel bir lezzetolarak menekfle murabbâs›, hummâs, hummâskavanozu ve reçel flekeri ile birlikte, Ramazanay›nda saray erkân›na verilen iftariyelikleraras›nda bulunuyordu.

Eflak tuzu d›fl›nda karabiber, tarç›n, karanfil,kakule, sak›z, safran, kimyon, sumak vek›rm›z›biber, II. Mahmud döneminde saray

special type of bread made especially for thesultan’s meals. There are interesting detailsabout the varieties of bread during this periodwhich we can learn from the list of ingredientsfound among the archival documents connectedto the feast held on 7 May, 1835 in Sadabad,to mark the start of school for fiehzadeAbdülaziz. In addition to the bread types listedabove, there are some types of bread and pastriesthat we know were produced in the classicalperiod. In addition to saffron loaf, which wasmade especially for Bayrams, it is possible to listpide (nân-› pite), nân-› pîç (braided bread), çörek,na’lî halka, simid-i halka, nan-› nohut, nân-› imam,nân-› kirde, nân-› sükkerî, po¤aça-i gül and nân-›mirahur.

Just as flerbet, jam, compotes and sweets wereconsumed during the classical period, they alsoheld an important place in the palace kitchen.In the period of Mahmud II, yass› kaday›f, ekmekkaday›f, baklava, güllaç, jams and helva accountfor a large part of the sugar and honey purchasedin the palace kitchens. In both the has mutfakand the kuflhane-i hümayun (the sultan’skitchens) and in the other kitchens sweets(hulviyyat), jam, and drinks like flerbet and syrups(eflribe) were made; sugar loaves, granulatedsugar and honey were used. Sugar, which was

II. Mahmut’un alt›n kaplamal›sofra tak›m›ndan çeflitli kaplar

Various dishes from MahmudII’s gold-plated dinner service(MSA)


|335|

mutfaklar›nda kullan›lan baharat türleriydi.Bunlar›n aras›nda karabiber (fülfül) ve tarç›n ençok tüketilen cinslerdi. K›rm›z›biber (bahar-›surh) XIX. yüzy›l Osmanl› saray mutfa¤›nda biryeniliktir. Mutfak listelerinde yemeklerinyap›m›nda kullan›lmak üzere dolmal›k f›st›k, kuflüzümü, fiam f›st›¤› ve badem de bulunmaktad›r.K›rm›z ad› verilen k›rm›z› renkli bitkisel boya,flekerciboyas› ve dutkal-› bal›k ad› verilenözellikle elmasiye yap›m›nda kullan›lan bir türjelatin, belgelerde ad› geçen k›vam ve tat vericimalzemeler aras›nda bulunmaktad›r. Budönemde sarayda vanilya ve çikolatan›ntan›nd›¤›n› ama nadir kullan›ld›¤›n› söylemekmümkündür. Çünkü saray mutfaklar› al›mlistelerinde yer almayan Amerika kökenli buyeni malzemeler Dolmabahçe’de elçiler içinverilecek olan bir ziyafetin masraf listesinderastlanmaktad›r. Genel olarak bu malzemelerinkullan›m› saray mutfaklar›nda XIX. yüzy›lboyunca s›n›rl› kalm›flt›r.

Sultan›n mutfa¤› için al›nan meyveler de çokçeflitliydi. Armut, elma, Arnavut elmas›, misketelmas›, ayva, kestane, limon, üzüm, razak›üzümü, çekirdeksiz üzüm, siyah üzüm, çavuflüzümü, Frenk üzümü, erik, Serfice eri¤i, Amasyaeri¤i, can eri¤i, siyah erik, salk›m eri¤i, kiraz,çilek, viflne, k›z›lc›k, dut, Medine hurmas›,kavun, karpuz, fleftali, incir, Rumeli cevizi, nar,tatl› nar (enâr-› flirin), le¤en nar›, üvez, zerdali,turunç, portakal, kan portakal› gibi tazemeyveler ve kuru üzüm, kuru kay›s›, kuru incir,kuru erik, f›nd›k, badem, fiam f›st›¤› gibi kurumeyveler mutfak listelerinde yer alan baz› meyveçeflitleridir. Meyveler çi¤ olarak tüketildi¤i gibihelvahanede flurup ve tatl› yap›m› için dekullan›lmaktayd›. Kuru meyvelerin d›fl›ndabademli ve cevizli sucuk, köfter, leblebi (leblebi-iflehdane) gibi çerezlerin al›m›na da saray mutfakkay›tlar›nda rastlanmaktad›r.

II. Mahmud döneminden itibaren saraymutfaklar›nda kullan›lan sebzeler aras›nda yeniçeflitler de yer almaktayd›. XVII. yüzy›l›nsonlar›ndan itibaren kavata tabir edilen birdomates türü sarayda bilinmekte ve yeflilhaldeyken toplanarak turflu yap›m›ndakullan›lmaktayd›. K›rm›z› domatesinkullan›m›na ancak XIX. yüzy›l bafllar›ndarastlanmaktad›r. Domates gibi Amerika menflelibir di¤er sebze olan taze biber de bu döneminarfliv belgelerinde karfl›m›za ç›kar. Patates vem›s›r henüz bu dönemde sarayda yayg›n de¤ildi.

more expensive and more of a luxury thanhoney, was preferred for the sweets and drinksfor the sultan. Violet petals, and lo¤usa sugar(a sweet that was given to women afterconfinement, known as hummâs), rose water andorange blossom water were used also in thepreparation of flerbet, syrups and compotes. As aspecial treat, violet paste, hummâs, and jamsweets were included in the iftariyelik that weresent to senior statesmen of the palace duringRamadan.

In addition to Wallachian salt, pepper,cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, mastic, saffron,cumin, sumac and paprika were used as spicesin the palace kitchen in the era of Mahmud II.The favorite among these were black pepper(fülfül) and cinnamon. Paprika (bahar-› sürh) wasan innovation in the Ottoman palace kitchen inthe 19th century. In addition, we find pine nuts,currents, pistachios and almonds included onthe kitchen lists to be used in making dishes.In the archival documents we can find redvegetable dye, known as k›rm›z, the flekerciboyas›(sweet maker’s dye) and a special type of gelatinknown as dutkal-› bal›k (fish glue), which wasused particularly in the preparation of fruitdishes, are some of the ingredients that providedconsistency and flavor. In this period, it ispossible to say that although vanilla andchocolate were known, they were rarely used;on the purchase lists of the palace kitchen thesenew ingredients, which were coming fromAmerica, are not included, but they can be seenon an expenses list for a feast given forambassadors at Dolmabahçe. In general, the useof these ingredients in the palace kitchen waslimited throughout the 19th century.

The fruit that was purchased for the sultan’skitchen were greatly varied. Fresh fruit likepears, apples, Albanian apples, misket apples,quince, chestnuts, lemons, grapes, white grapes,seedless grapes, black grapes, Muscat grapes,redcurrants, plums, Serfice plums, Amasyaplums, green plums, black plums, salk›m plums,cherries, strawberries, sour cherries, corneliancherry, mulberry, dates, melons, watermelons,peaches, figs, Rumelian walnuts, pomegranates,sweet pomegranates (enâr-› flirin), le¤enpomegranates, rowan berry, wild apricots, citron,oranges, blood oranges, while dry fruit includedraisins, dried apricots, dried figs, prunes,hazelnuts, almonds and pistachios are all found

Kâseler, II. Mahmud’un alt›nkaplamal› sofra tak›m›ndan

Bowls from Mahmut II’sgold-plated dinner service(MSA)

Sol sayfa / Facing page


|336|

FII. Mahmud dönemi saray mutfaklar›ndagünümüz Türk mutfa¤›nda kullan›lan hemenhemen tüm sebzeler mevcuttu. Patl›can, asmakaba¤›, sak›z kaba¤›, bal kaba¤›, taze bakla,fasulye, çal› fasulyesi, semizotu, taze ve kurubamya, h›yar, k›rm›z› domates, kavata, kavatayapra¤›, enginar, taze biber, lahana, turp, p›rasa,flalgam, kereviz, havuç, karnabahar, nane,dereotu (durakotu), sar›msak ve so¤an, arflivbelgelerinde ad› geçen sebzelerdir. Bunlara ekolarak hindiba, kuzukula¤›, mühliye (müluhiyye),ebegümeci, kad›ntuzlu¤u (lisân-› sevr), tarhunotu gibi yabani otlar›, maydanoz, salata, marulve ›spanak gibi yeflillikleri ve tabii ki sarmayap›m›nda kullan›lan asma yapra¤›n› da eklemekgerekir. Koruk olarak adland›r›lan ham üzüm desebzelerin al›m›n› listeleyen belgelerde yeralmaktad›r. Çünkü koruk, domates salças›n›nhenüz mutfaklara girmedi¤i bu dönemde sebzeyemeklerini tatland›rmak için kullan›l›rd›.Mutfakta kullan›lan di¤er ekfliler aras›ndakoru¤un yan›nda sirke ve limon suyu (âb-› limon)bulunmaktad›r.

Sarayda Yemekler ve ‹çeceklerDöneme ait saray mönüleri bulunmad›¤›ndanpiflirilen yemek çeflitlerinin izlerini, yukar›daaktard›¤›m›z yiyecek çeflitlerinden, mutfaklaraal›nan kap-kacak isimlerinden ve baz›seyahatnamelerden sürmek mümkündür. Arflivbelgelerinde ad› geçen kap kacak isimlerindensarayda börek, pilav, kebap, kuzu kebab›, güveç,keflkek, çorba (örne¤in tarhana ve iflkembeçorbalar›) gibi yemeklerin haz›rland›¤›n›anl›yoruz. Klasik dönemden beri haz›rlana gelenbu yemeklere XIX. yüzy›lda salata, bal›kyemekleri ve tarator da eklenmifltir. Osmanl›lariçin vazgeçilmez bir yiyecek olan veHelvahane’de yap›lan turflular, yine ayn› yerdekiambarda depolan›rd›. Lahana, h›yar, kabak,flalgam, patl›can turflular› listelerde ad› geçençeflitler aras›nda bulunmaktad›r.

22 May›s 1821’de Topkap› saray›nda ‹ngilizelçisi Lord Strattford onuruna verilen ziyafetindetaylar› yemek çeflitleri hakk›nda bilgivermektedir. ‹ngiliz elçisiyle ziyafete kat›lan R.Walsh’›n anlat›m›na göre, ziyafette on bir çeflityemek sunulmufltu: nohut çorbas›, ›zgara bal›k,koyun etli fasulye, tatl› hamur toplar›, av kuflukebab›, üzeri hamurla kapl› bir tür tatl›, iyipiflmifl koyun eti, hafllama kufl eti, köfte, yo¤urtya da ayran, bir tür elma yahnisi ve son olarakziyafetin sona erdi¤i gösteren pirinç pilav› ve

on the lists of fruit brought into the kitchens.Fruit was not only consumed raw, but it wasused in the helvahane to make syrups and sweets.In addition to dried fruit, almond and walnuts,dried candies and leblebi (dried chickpeas) canbe found in the records of purchases for thepalace kitchens.

rom the period of Mahmud II on there are newtypes of vegetables used in the palace kitchens.From the end of the 17th century on, a type oftomato, referred to as kavata, was known in thepalace and it was used for pickles, being pickedwhile it was still green. However, the use of redtomatoes only occurs at the beginning of the19th century. Like tomatoes, another vegetablethat comes from America was the pepper andthis starts to appear in the archival records atthis time. Potatoes and corn were still notcommon in the kitchen at that time. During thereign of Mahmud II nearly all the vegetablesthat are used in Turkish cuisine today could befound in the kitchens. Aubergine, marrow,courgettes, pumpkins, fresh broad beans, greenbeans, string beans, watercress, fresh and driedokra, cucumbers, red tomatoes, kavata (sourgreen tomatoes), kavata leaves, artichoke, freshpeppers, cabbage, turnip, leek, swede, celeriac,carrots, cauliflower, mint, tarragon, dill, garlicand onion are all mentioned in archivaldocuments. In addition, we would have to addwild herbs like chicory, sorrel, müluhiyye,mallow, barberry and tarhun (a form of tarragon),with greens like parsley, lettuce, cos lettuce andspinach, and of course, vine leaves, which wereused for stuffing. The uncultivated grape, knownas koruk, was also included in the purchase listsfor vegetables; koruk was used to flavor vegetabledishes, as tomato paste had not yet entered thekitchens at this time. Other sour flavorings likekoruk at this time were vinegar and lemon juice(âb-› limon).

Food and Drink in the PalaceIt is possible to determine the varieties of thefood cooked in the kitchens at the time, despitethe lack of contemporary palace menus, fromthe names of the pots and pans and the recordsfound in the archival documents and in sometraveler’s accounts. The pots and pan namesthat are listed in the archives in the palace tellus that food like savory pastries, pilaf, kebab,lamb kebab, casserole, keflkek (a dish made ofpounded meat and wheat) soup, (for example

‹brik

A ewer(MSA)


|337|

büyük bir kâse hoflaf. Yine kap kacakisimlerinden hareketle, sultan›n sofras› da dâhilolmak üzere saray mutfaklar›nda zerde, yass›kaday›f, ekmek kaday›f›, lokma, baklava, helva,aflure, kaygana, güllaç gibi Osmanl› mutfa¤›n›ntemel tatl› çeflitlerinin haz›rland›¤›anlafl›lmaktad›r. Sarayda Muharrem ay›nda aflureservisi, bir gelenek olarak imparatorlu¤un sondönemine kadar devam etmifltir. Arflivbelgelerinden padiflah›n özellikle narenciyereçellerine afl›r› düflkün oldu¤unu ve sultan içinhaz›rlanan portakal ve turunç kabu¤u reçelleriyan›nda, Frenk limonu (limon-› frengî), limon-›mürekkebi (Turunçgillerden bir meyve türü. Herdilimi, ayr› ayr› turunç, limon, mandalina gibimeyvelerin tatlar›n› tafl›r ve günümüzde K›br›sAdas›’nda “alaca limon” olarak da bilinir.),turunç ve a¤aç kavunu reçelleri haz›rland›¤›ortaya ç›kmaktad›r. Belgelerde ad› geçen di¤erreçel çeflitleri aras›nda armut, elma, mersin,ayva, hünnap reçelleri, menekfle murabbâs› vegülbefleker de bulunmaktad›r.

tarhana made from dried yoghurt and spices andiflkembe - tripe soups) were prepared. These dishes,which had been made from the classic periodon, were accompanied by salad, fish dishes andtarator. An indispensable dish for the Ottomanswas the pickles made in the Helvahane, whichwere stored in the store rooms of the same place.Cabbage, cucumbers, courgettes, swede, andaubergine were all used for pickles.

There is detailed information about the varietyof food at the feast that was given in the honorof the British ambassador, Lord Strattford, inTopkap› Palace on 22 May 1821. According tothe description by R. Walsh, who participatedin the feast, there were eleven different dishespresented at the feast: chickpea soup, grilledfish, green beans with mutton, sweet doughballs, game kebab, a sweet that was covered withdough, well-done mutton, boiled bird, meatballs,yoghurt or ayran, an apple stew and finally a ricepilaf and a large bowl of compote to indicate theend of the meal. Once again working from the

Çay bardaklar›

Tea glasses(MSA)


names of the pots and pans, it can beunderstood that the basic sweet types of theOttoman cuisine were prepared in the palacekitchens, and included on the sultan’s table;examples of these were zerde, yass› kaday›f,ekmek kaday›f, lokma, baklava, helva, aflure,kaygana and güllaç. The tradition of servingaflure (Noah’s pudding) in the month ofMuharrem continued until the end of theempire. From archival documents we learn thatthe sultan was extremely fond of citrus jams, andthat in addition to the orange and citron peeljams that were prepared for the sultan there wasthe limon-› frengî (European lemon), limon-imürekkeb (a type of citrus fruit, every slice ofwhich had the flavor of a citron, lemon ortangerine, and is known today in Cyprus as“alaca limon”), citron and a¤aç kavunu (anothertype of citron) jams. Among the other jams thatare mentioned in the documents are pear, apple,myrtle, quince, jujubes, violet paste and rosejam.

The making of pastes continued in the palace asit had in the classical period. For example, therewere three kinds of paste made in the palacebetween 1825 and 1826: nufldârû, karabafl andcevârifl. This situation perhaps shows that withtime fewer pastes were made in the palace; inthe classical period there were many types ofpastes and every year, in addition to theabove-mentioned three, cornelian, quince anddevâ-i misk pastes were made as well. In therecords, phrases like compote bowl, flerbet set,flerbet glasses, crystal compote bowl tell us thatthe sweet drinks of compote, flerbet and syrupwere commonly served during the reign ofMahmud II. Among the ingredients purchasedfor the drinks (eflribe) that were prepared by thesultan’s larder-man in the Befliktafl Palace, wefind sugar, muslin to drain the flerbet (astar-› has)and fresh fruit like lemons, oranges, grapes andpears regularly listed. According to a provisionsrecords belonging to the era, we can say thatevery year Damascene apricot, dried sour-cherry,currant, Amasya plum, apple, quince and pearcompotes were made every year.

The Bon Vivant SultanIn contrast to common opinion, Mahmud II,whose character had strong conservative aspects,was not shy of enjoying the pleasures of thisworld. The sultan would leave the palacewhenever he could and spend time in a pleasant

B›çak, çatal, kafl›k, II. Mahmud’un alt›n kaplamal› sofra tak›m›ndan

Cutlery from Mahmut II’s gold-plated dinner service(MSA)


|339|

T

Sarayda macun yap›m› klasik dönemde oldu¤ugibi devam etmekteydi. Örne¤in 1825-1826aras›nda sarayda üç çeflit macun yap›lm›flt›:Nufldârû, karabafl ve cevârifl. Bu durum bize,sarayda yap›lan macunlar›n say›s›n›n zamanlabelki de azald›¤›n› göstermektedir. Çünkü klasikdönemde macun çeflitleri oldukça fazlayd› ve hery›l bu üçüne ilaveten en az›ndan k›z›lc›k, ayva,devâ-i misk macunlar› yap›lmaktayd›. Belgelerdead› geçen hoflaf kâsesi, flerbet tak›m›, flerbetbarda¤›, billur hoflaf kâsesi gibi tan›mlar saraydahoflaf, flerbet ve flurup gibi tatl› içeceklerinhaz›rlanmas›n›n II. Mahmud döneminde deyayg›n oldu¤unu göstermektedir. BefliktaflSaray›’nda sultan›n kilercisi taraf›ndanhaz›rlanan içecekler (eflribe) için al›nanmalzemeler aras›nda; fleker, flerbetleri süzmekiçin tülbent (astar-› has) ve limon, portakal,üzüm, armut gibi taze meyveler düzenli olaraklistelenmifltir. Döneme ait bir tayinat defterindeyer alan bilgilere göre sarayda her y›l fiamkay›s›s›, kuru viflne, kufl üzümü, Amasya eri¤i,elma, ayva ve armut hoflaflar›n›n yap›ld›¤›n› dasöylemek mümkündür.

Ehl-i Keyif SultanYayg›n kanaatin aksine muhafazakâr yönü güçlüolan II. Mahmud ayn› zamanda dünyevîhazlardan el etek çekmifl de de¤ildi. Sultanmümkün oldukça saraydan d›flar› ç›kar, güzel birmekânda vakit geçirirdi. 1815’ten itibarenTopkap› Saray› yerine dekorasyon aç›s›ndanhem alafranga hem de alaturka tarzlar› yans›tanve Ç›ra¤an Saray› olarak da bilinen BefliktaflSaray›’nda ikamet eden Sultan, Bo¤aziçi’ndekibahçe ve köflkleri s›k s›k ziyaret ederdi. II.Mahmud’un d›flar› ç›kmaktaki di¤er bir amac›,neredeyse tiryakilik derecesinde olan avtutkusuydu. Sultan II. Mahmud dönemine aitsaray günlükleri, padiflah›n hem gezilerindenhem de Küçükçekmece, Büyükçekmece veBo¤azköy’deki av partilerinden s›kl›kla sözederler. Buralarda hem ördek, kaz ve ku¤u gibisu kufllar› hem de sürek avlar›nda geyik, karacave domuz gibi hayvanlar ve çeflitli kufllaravlan›rd›. II. Mahmud, gezinti için gitti¤i yerlerematbah-› âmiresini de götürürdü; kendi mutfa¤›d›fl›ndan yemek yedi¤ine nadiren flahit olunurdu.fiüphesiz bunun nedeni zehirlenme tehlikesiydi.Dönemin günlüklerinden padiflah›n yemekyerken müzik dinlemeyi de sevdi¤ianlafl›lmaktad›r.

II. Mahmut döneminde sarayda su ve flerbetd›fl›nda tüketilen en önemli içecek kahveydi.

area. The sultan, who from 1815 on lived in theBefliktafl Palace, which is known as the Ç›ra¤anPalace, a palace that decoratively reflected boththe European style and the Turkish style, wouldfrequently visit the gardens and pavilions there.Another reason why Mahmud II would go outsidewas his passion for hunting, which was almostan addiction. The palace diaries from the era ofMahmut II speak frequently of hunting partiesthat went to Küçükçekmece, Büyükçekmece andBo¤azköy. Here they would hunt water fowl likeduck, goose and swan, and pursue prey like deer,stag, roe and boar, as well as a variety of birds.Mahmud II would take the matbah-› âmire withhim when he went on these trips; rarely was heseen to eat food outside his own kitchen. Thiswas probably due to the danger of beingpoisoned. We can understand from the diaries ofthe period that the sultan enjoyed listening tomusic while he ate.

he most important beverage to be consumed inthe palace other than water and flerbet was coffee.Some records show that some of the importantmembers of the palace drank badyan andMoscow tea. Again, even though it does notappear in the diaries or kitchen lists of the era,many travelers mention the sultan’s fondness forwine and champagne. In fact, there is acommon view that due to the sultan’s easyattitude towards alcohol, the other statesmenwere equally comfortable with it. At the sametime, archival documents show that Mahmut IIwas a heavy smoker and used the hookah. Thefact that among the goods purchased for thedaire-i hümayun were listed tobacco, pipes,hookahs, the tube for the hookah, the mouthpiece, the glass bottle and the glass all reflectthe ehl-i keyif (pleasure seeker) character of thesultan.

The Bolu Chefs and European Breezes in thePalaceSultan Mahmud II preferred to spend most ofhis time in the Befliktafl Palace. This palace,known as the Old Ç›ra¤an Palace, was rebuilt in1809. According to archival documents, as inthe Topkap› Palace, there were differentkitchens that prepared food for the people of thepalace in addition to sections like the sultan’sprivate kuflhane-yi hümayun kitchen, thehelvahane, larders and ovens. Another importantinnovation was that in addition to experts likeaflç›bafl› (head chef), hamurkâr (pastry chef),


|341|

Baz› kay›tlar, saray seçkinlerinin kahveden dahaaz olmak üzere, badyan ve Moskov çay› daiçtiklerini göstermektedir. Yine dönemingünlüklerinde ve mutfak listelerindegeçmemesine ra¤men birçok seyahatname yazar›,padiflah›n flarap ve flampanya tutkusuna de¤inir.Hatta padiflah›n içki tüketiminde oldukça rahatdavranmas›n›n di¤er devlet adamlar› için de birrahatlamaya neden oldu¤u yönünde ortak birgörüfl mevcuttur. Öte yandan arfliv belgeleri,II. Mahmut’un iyi bir tütün ve nargile içicisioldu¤unu göstermektedir. Daire-i Hümâyun’aal›nan mallar aras›nda kahveyle birlikte tütün,çubuk, nargile, marpuç, nargile ucu, nargilefliflesi veya barda¤› al›m›na iliflkin çok say›dakayd›n bulunmas›, padiflah›n ehl-i keyif kiflili¤iniyans›tmaktad›r.

Sarayda Bolulu Aflç›lar ve Alafranga EsintilerSultan II. Mahmud, zaman›n›n büyük birk›sm›n› Befliktafl Saray›’nda geçirmeyi tercihetmiflti. Eski Ç›ra¤an Saray› olarak da bilinen busaray 1809 y›l›nda yeniden yapt›r›lm›flt›r. Arflivbelgelerine göre sarayda sultana özel Kuflhâne-iHümâyun mutfa¤›, helvahane, kilerler ve f›r›ngibi bölümlerden baflka Topkap› Saray›’ndaoldu¤u gibi saray halk› için yemek haz›rlayanfarkl› mutfaklar bulunmaktayd›. Mutfaklardakiaflç›bafl›, hamurkâr, kebapç›, pilavc› gibiuzmanl›k alanlar›na göre çal›flan aflç›lardanbaflka bu dönemdeki önemli bir yenilik, HasMutfak’a ba¤l› “Bal›k Matbah›”n›n kuruluflu vebu mutfakta çal›flt›r›lmak üzere bal›kç›neferlerinin atanmas›yd›.

II. Mahmud döneminde saray mutfakpersonelinin yap›s›nda da de¤iflimlergerçekleflmifltir. Yeniçeri Oca¤›’n›n kald›r›l›fl›,askerî yap›da köklü bir de¤iflime nedenolmas›n›n yan›nda saray mutfa¤›n›n personelyap›s›n› da ciddi bir flekilde etkilemifltir. Arflivbelgelerine göre, saray mutfaklar›nda XVIII.yüzy›ldan itibaren Nevflehir a¤›rl›kl› bir personelyap›s› vard›. Muhtemelen Damad ‹brahim Paflaile bafllayan bu süreç, oca¤›n kald›r›l›fl›n›nhemen ard›ndan sonlanm›fl, Nevflehir kökenliaflç› ve di¤er mutfak personeli h›zla azalt›lm›fl veyerlerine Bolulu aflç›lar atanm›flt›. 1826 y›l›sonunda saray aflç›lar›n›n yaklafl›k % 70’i art›kBolululardan oluflmaktayd›. Böylelikle, saraydaBolulu aflç›lar›n dönemi bafllam›flt›r. Hükümetinbu yöndeki tasarrufuna, iyi yemek yapmamak vesaray a¤alar›n› dinlememek gibi durumlar›n daneden oldu¤u söylenmekle beraber, as›l

kebapç› (kebab chef), pilavc› (pilaf chef) beingemployed in the kitchens the bal›k matbah› wasestablished in affiliation with the Has Mutfak(Imperial Kitchen); this kitchen was the onethat dealt with fish.

There were changes in the structure of thepersonnel who were employed in the kitchensduring the reign of Mahmud II. The abolishmentof the Janissaries not only caused a fundamentalchange in the military structure, but alsoseriously affected the personal structure of thepalace kitchen. According to archival documents,from the 18th century on, the personnel in thekitchens tended to be from Nevflehir. Thisprocess, which probably started with Damad‹brahim Pasha, came to an end with theabolishment of the Janissaries; the number ofchefs and other kitchen personnel fromNevflehir was quickly reduced, with chefs fromBolu being appointed in their place. At the endof 1826 about 70% of the palace chefs werefrom Bolu. Thus, the era of the Bolu chef at thepalace had begun. Even though some have saidthat this action was caused by the failure toprepare good food or because the palace aghaswere ignored, the real reason was due to therelationships and solidarity that had beenestablished by those working in the kitchenwith the Janissaries. The change in the profilesof the chefs in 1826 was followed by a change intheir uniforms in 1828. After the regulation of1828 the chefs and helvac›s, who had earlierworn embroidered caps, caftans, entari and çakfl›r(shalwar), now wore a fez with a tassel, anEgyptian style robe, nîmten (a shirt) and shalwar.

Another innovation in the era of Mahmud IIwas the interest that began to be felt towardsalafranga cuisine and dining style in the palaceand palace environment. In the last years of thesultanate a chef by the name of Hüseyin fromthe matbah-› amire was sent to be trained inVienna and stayed there for a year. Hüseyinbeing sent to Vienna to learn their style ofcooking must have stemmed from the desire topresent dishes that were suitable for theimportant foreign visitors who were entertainedin the palace from the end of Mahmud II’s era.It is possible to say, quoting from witnesses ofthe era, that the ambassadorial feasts were in thealafranga style, and that the food presented carriedan alafranga essence. For example, in 1834 anambassadorial feast held for the wedding

Tabak, II. Mahmud’un alt›nkaplamal› sofra tak›m›ndan

A plate from Mahmut II’sgold-plated dinner service(MSA)


|342|

gerekçenin saray mutfa¤› çal›flanlar›n›nyeniçerilerle kurdu¤u ülfet ve dayan›flma oldu¤ubelirtilmelidir. 1826’da saray›n aflç› profilininde¤iflimini, 1828’de aflç›lar›n giydiklerielbiselerin de¤ifltirilmesi takip etmifltir. Dahaönce s›rmal› takye, kaftan, entari ve çakfl›r giyenaflç› ve helvac›lar, 1828’deki düzenlemedensonra örme püsküllü fes, M›s›rl› kesimi cübbe,nîmten (mintan) ve flalvar giymeyebafllam›fllard›r.

II. Mahmud dönemine ait bir baflka yeniliksarayda ve saray çevresinde “alafranga” mutfakve sofra düzenine duyulmaya bafllanan ilgidir.Saltanat›n›n son y›l›nda Matbah-› Âmire’denHüseyin adl› bir aflç› Viyana’ya aflç›l›k e¤itimi(tahsîl-i tabâhat) almak için gönderilmifl ve bir y›lorada kalm›flt›r. Hüseyin’in Avrupa mutfakusullerini ö¤renmek için Viyana’ya gidifli,II. Mahmud döneminin sonlar›ndan itibarensarayda a¤›rlanan önemli yabanc› konuklaraonlar›n damak tad›na uygun bir sofra sunmaiste¤inden kaynaklanm›fl olmal›d›r. Dönemintan›kl›klar›na dayanarak elçi ziyafetlerinin“alafranga” usulde oldu¤unu ve sunulanyemeklerin de “alafranga” esintiler tafl›d›¤›n›söylemek mümkündür. Örne¤in 1834 y›l›ndaSaliha Sultan için yap›lan dü¤ün flenliklerindeelçiler için ziyafet, Avrupai tarzda masa vesandalyeli bir düzende haz›rlanm›flt›r. Yine birarfliv belgesine göre, 1833 y›l›nda DolmabahçeSahilsaray›’nda düzenlenen elçi ziyafetindeyemekler alafranga tarzda haz›rlanm›flt›. Ziyafetiçin al›nan malzemeler aras›nda; makarna,çikolata, vanilya, tapyoka (dakîk-› yer elmas›)gibi Avrupa mutfa¤›nda kullan›lan baz›malzemeler de yer almaktad›r. Damak zevkialaturka yemeklere meyleden sultan›n ayn›zamanda alafranga usulde sofra düzenine de ilgiduydu¤unu ve makalenin bafl›nda belirtti¤imizgibi sarayda ilk defa çatal b›çak kullanarakmasada yemek yiyen reformcu bir padiflahportresi çizdi¤ini söylemek mümkündür.

II. Mahmud Döneminde ‹stanbul Çarfl›lar› veYiyeceklerII. Mahmud döneminde ‹stanbul’un iaflesi, eskidönemlerde oldu¤u gibi imparatorlu¤un çeflitlibölgelerinden sa¤lan›yordu. Taze meyve ve sebzegibi dayan›ks›z g›da maddelerinin tedariki,nispeten ‹stanbul’a yak›n yerlerden yap›l›rken,di¤er baz› mallar M›s›r veya fiam gibi uzakbölgelerden temin ediliyordu. ‹stanbul halk›,ihtiyaç duydu¤u g›da maddelerini, ilgili esnafa

celebrations of Saliha Sultan was prepared inthe European manner, with tables and chairs.According to archival documents, theambassadorial feast that was given in theDolmabahçe Palace in 1833 was prepared in thealafranga manner. Among the ingredientsbought for the feast were some ingredients usedin European cuisine, like pasta, chocolate,vanilla, tapioca (dakik-i yer elmas›). It is possibleto say that the sultan was more inclined toalaturka food, but the fact that he was interestedin the alafranga style of arranging feasts, and, aswe stated at the beginning of the article, as hewas being first sultan to sit eating at a table,using a knife and fork, presents us with theportrait of a reformer sultan.

The Istanbul Market and Food in the Era ofMahmud IIIn the era of Mahmud II the provisions forIstanbul, as had formerly been the case, weresupplied from a number of regions of the empire.Perishable goods, like fruit and vegetables, wereattained from areas close to Istanbul, whileother goods would be purchased from distantregions like Egypt and Damascus. The people ofIstanbul would purchase the goods they wantedfrom the relevant shop. According to records ofthe era, it is possible to break down the guilds ofshops in the capital as follows: Çörekçi, simitçi,ekmekçi (habbâz) (all forms of bakers), leblebici(roasted chickpea seller), pekmezci (grapemolasses seller), bal›k tuzlay›c› and havyarc›(related to fish), so¤anc› (onions seller), yumurtac›(eggs seller), gözlemeci (savory pancakes seller),hoflafç› (compote maker), bakkal (grocers),zeytinci (olives seller), paçac› (sheep trotters),aflç› (chef), çorbac› (soup maker), kebapç› (kebabmaker), kasap (butcher), flekerci (sweet shop),flerbetçi, peynirci (cheese shop), kahveci/kahvehaneci(café), pirinççi (rice shop), kuruyemiflçi (driedfruit and nuts shop), ya¤c› (oil/butter shop),yo¤urtçu (yoghurt vendor), bezirya¤c› (linseedoil), francalac› (French bread seller), salatac›(salad seller), sebzeci (vegetables seller), tuzcu(salt seller), manav (green grocers), zahireci(grain shop), attar (spice shop), börekçi (pastryvendor), dar›c› (corn/millet), helvac› (halvamaker), turflucu (pickles seller) and limoncu(lemons seller).

In Istanbul, shops that sold a certain type ofgoods were concentrated in certain areas. Forexample, vegetable sellers were in Eminönü,

Kâseler, II. Mahmud’un alt›nkaplamal› sofra tak›m›ndan

Bowls from Mahmut II’sgold-plated dinner service

(MSA)


Gümüfl çorbal›k ve kâseler / Silver tureen and soup bowls (MSA)


|344|

‹ait dükkânlar›ndan sat›n al›rd›. Döneme aitbelgelere göre baflkentte varl›¤› tespit edilenesnaf kollar›n› flöyle s›ralamak mümkündür:Çörekçi, simitçi, ekmekçi (habbâz), leblebici,pekmezci, bal›k tuzlay›c› ve havyarc›, so¤anc›,yumurtac›, gözlemeci, hoflafç›, bakkal, zeytinci,paçac›, aflç›, çorbac›, kebapç›, kasap, flekerci,flerbetçi, peynirci, kahveci/kahvehaneci,pirinççi, kuruyemiflçi, ya¤c›, yo¤urtçu, bezirya¤c›,francalac›, salatac›, sebzeci, tuzcu, manav,zahireci, yumurtac›, attâr, börekçi, dar›c›,helvac›, flir-i revgânc›, turflucu ve limoncu.

stanbul’da baz› mallar› satan dükkânlar bellibölgelerde yo¤unlaflm›flt›. Mesela sebzecilerEminönü’nde, pekmezci ve zeytinci dükkânlar›Ayazma Kap›s› d›fl›nda, tuzcu dükkânlar› ZindanKap›s› d›fl›nda, yumurtac›lar Odun Kap›s›haricinde, peynirciler Bal›k Pazar› Kap›s›haricinde ve kuruyemiflçi ve yo¤urtçular iseZindan Kap›s› d›fl›nda yo¤unlaflm›fllard›. Bunakarfl›l›k bakkal, çörekçi, simitçi, flerbetçi veturflucu gibi iflletmelere flehrin her yerinderastlamak mümkündü. Bunlar say› bak›m›ndanda oldukça yüksekti.

‹stanbul piyasas›nda sat›lan yiyecek ve içeceklerçok çeflitliydi. Sebzeler, meyveler, sucuk vepast›rma çeflitleri, fleker, bal, pirinç, kurubaklagil gibi temel g›da maddelerinin yan› s›rakebap, revani, helva gibi haz›r yiyeceklerdönemin fiyat listelerinde yer almaktad›r. Narhdefterlerinde özellikle sebze ve meyve gibi g›daürünlerinin fiyatlar› ve geldikleri yerler detayl›bir flekilde belirtilerek kaydedilmifltir. Örne¤in1835 tarihli bir belgede tam on üç çeflit üzümkaydedilmifltir. Ürünlerin detayl› bir flekildeköken belirtilerek listelenmesi, payitahtmutfa¤›n›n gastronomik aç›dan zenginli¤ini ve‹stanbul halk›n›n imparatorluk genelindeüretilen mallar› tüketme flans›na sahip oldu¤unugöstermektedir. ‹stanbul halk› g›da çeflitlili¤iaç›s›ndan kentin kendi do¤as›n›n sundu¤uyiyecekler aç›s›ndan da flansl›yd›. Özellikle debal›k ve deniz ürünleri -günümüze nisbetle çokdaha fazla olarak- ‹stanbul Bo¤az›’ndan teminediliyordu. ‹stanbul’a bol miktarda sebze vemeyve sa¤layan Asya Yakas›, av hayvanlar›aç›s›ndan da zengindi.

Sultan II. Mahmud dönemi ‹stanbulmutfa¤›ndaki yemek çeflitleri hakk›nda döneminseyahatnameleri ve 1844 y›l›nda ‹stanbul’dabas›lan Melceü’t-tabbâhîn adl› yemek kitab›

sellers of molasses and olives were outside theAyazma Gate, salt shops were outside theZindan Gate, egg sellers were inside the OdunGate, cheese sellers were inside the Bal›k Pazar›Gate and the dried fruit and nut sellers andyoghurt sellers were concentrated outside theZindan Gate. In contrast, the places where foodwas made, like çörekçi, simitçi, flerbetçi andturflucu, could be found in every area of the city.There were very many of these.

The prices of food and drink that were sold inthe Istanbul market were quite high. Basicgoods, like vegetables, fruit, sausage, and typesof past›rma, sugar, honey, rice, dried pulses, aswell as ready to eat food like kebab, revani andhelva can be found on the price lists of the period.In the narh (fixed price) registers in particular, theprices of goods like fruit and vegetables arerecorded in detail, with the places from wherethey came listed. For example, in a documentdated 1835, 13 varieties of grapes are recorded.The listing gives details of the product andshows the wealth of the capital’s cuisine, from agastronomic point of view; we can also see thatthe people of Istanbul had the opportunity toconsume goods from all over the empire. Thepeople of Istanbul were lucky from the aspect ofthe variety of goods that were grown or attainedin their own city as well. In particular, fish andseafood could be obtained from the Bosphorusin much greater volumes than today. Largeamounts of vegetables and fruit were grown onthe Asian shore, and in addition this region wasvery good for hunting.

The travelogues of the era and the cook bookMelceü’t-tabbâhîn, printed in Istanbul in 1844,are full of information about the variety of foodthat made up the Istanbul cuisine in the era ofSultan Mahmud II. Even though the latter bookwas printed six years after Mahmud II’s death,this is a work that is valuable in recording thetaste and habits that had formed over a shorttime, as well as determining unchangingcomponents. The ingredients used in the recipesin Melceü’t-tabbâhîn are similar to the goodsbought for the palace kitchen and those foundin the Istanbul market. In the book, the meatdishes are prepared as kebab, yahni (onion-basedstew), külbast› (grilled cutlet), köfte and friedmeat. Mutton and chicken are the meats mostoften used. Offal and game are included in thebook, but there are not many recipes. There are

Semaver

A samovar (MSA)


|345|

zengin bilgiler içerir. II. Mahmud’un vefat›ndanalt› y›l sonra bas›lm›fl olsa da, yemek zevki veal›flkanl›klar› k›sa sürede oluflan ve de¤iflenunsurlar olmad›¤›ndan Melceü’t-tabbâhîn kaydade¤er bir eserdir. Bu eserde yer alan yemektariflerinde kullan›lan malzemeler saraymutfaklar›na al›nan ve ‹stanbul piyasas›ndabulunan malzemelerle benzerlik göstermektedir.Kitapta et yemekleri; kebap, yahni, külbast›,köfte ve k›zartma gibi tekniklerle haz›rlanm›flt›r.Koyun ve tavuk, tariflerde a¤›rl›kl› olarakkullan›lan et türleridir. Kitapta sakatat ve avyemekleri de geçer fakat say›ca azd›r. Bal›k vemidye, karides, tarak gibi deniz ürünleri ileyap›lan yemekler ise oldukça fazlad›r. Lüferpilav›, tarak pilav›, uskumru dolmas›, çirozsalatas›, uskumru bal›¤› kebab› ‹stanbul’un bal›kyeme¤i çeflitlili¤ini yans›tan tariflere örneklerdir.Pilavlar, börek çeflitleri, çorba tarifleri, yumurtayemekleri, sebze ve meyve ile yap›lan etlidolmalar, yalanc› dolmalar, etli sebze yemekleri,sebze k›zartmalar›, turflular ve salatalar kitaptayer alan baz› yemek çeflitleridir. Tatl›, hoflaf veflurup tarifleri, kitab›n önemli bir bölümünüoluflturmaktad›r. Baklava, lokma, ekmek kaday›f›gibi hamur tatl›lar›, helvalar, aflure, tavukgö¤sü,muhallebi gibi hafif tatl›lar, elma ve ayva tatl›s›gibi meyve tatl›lar› ile rahatü’l-lokum vegülbefleker ise kitapta yer alan tatl› türlerineörneklerdir.

II. Mahmud dönemine tan›kl›k eden baz›seyahatnameler Melceü’t-tabbâhîn’de tarifleriverilen yemeklerin Osmanl› elit tabakas›n›nkonaklar›nda haz›rlanan yemeklerle benzerli¤iniortaya koyar. Örne¤in Sir Adolphus Slade, birOsmanl› paflas›n›n evinde konuk oldu¤u sofrada;ilk yemek olarak barbunya bal›¤›n›, sonra avkuflunu, peflinden zeytinya¤›yla piflmifl kuzuyahniyi ve birbiri ard›na getirilen baflka etyemeklerini ve son olarak gelen pilav› s›ralar.Sofrada yemeklere turflu ve ekmek efllik eder.Pilavdan sonra envai çeflit meyvelerlehaz›rlanm›fl ve gül suyu ile tatland›r›lm›fl bir kâsehoflaf servis edilir. Yemekten sonra flerbet, çubukve kahve ikram edilir. Slade Türk mutfa¤›n›nbirçok aç›dan Frans›z mutfa¤› kadar mükemmelve hatta Türk mutfa¤›ndaki kuzu etininnefasetinin daha üstün oldu¤unu dile getirir.1830’larda ‹stanbul konaklar›nda haz›rlanan biryemek sofras›n›n betimlemesi ise Pardoetaraf›ndan flu flekilde yap›lm›flt›r: “Masadankap›ya kadar kuyruk oluflturan dokuz halay›kbize hizmet etti; hafllanm›fl, k›zarm›fl, f›r›nda

a lot of recipes for fish and mussels, shrimp, andscallop. Bluefish pilaf, scallop pilaf, stuffedmackerel, smoked fish salad, mackerel kebab aresome examples of recipes that reflect the varietyof fish in Istanbul. Some of the dishes are pilafs,savory pastries, soup recipes, egg dishes, stuffedvegetable and fruit dishes, meat and vegetabledishes, fried vegetables, pickles and salads.Recipes for sweets, compotes and syrup recipesform the most important section of the book.Pastries, like baklava, lokma, ekmek kaday›f, andlight sweets like helva, aflure, tavukgö¤sü,muhallebi, fruit puddings like apple and quince,and rahatü’l-lokum and gülbefleker are examples ofsweets found in the book.

Some travelogues which record the era ofMahmud II make it clear that the food preparedfor guests of the Ottoman elite was similar tothose found in Melceü’t-tabbâhîn. For example,Sir Adolphus Slade lists that at a feast in thehouse of an Ottoman pasha the first course wassnapper, followed by game bird, and then a lambstew cooked with olive oil, and other meatcourses; these were followed by a pilaf. Therewere pickles and bread offered with the meal.After the pilaf, a bowl of compote, flavored withrose water and made with a variety of fruit, wasserved. After the dinner, flerbet, pipes and coffeewere offered. Slade states that the Turkishcuisine was as wonderful, in many aspects, as the

Karl›k

Snowbox

(MSA)


|346|

piflmifl akl›n›za gelebilecek her tür yiyecek, leziztarç›n çorbas›, ›t›rl› otlar ve zeytinlerle süslenmifltavuk, ançüezli ekmekler, zerdeli pilav, kuflbafl›et ve asma yapraklar›na sar›lm›fl baharatl› pilav,en nefis hamur iflleri ve en pahal› reçellerönümüze geldi. Rengarenk flerbetler ve limonatayeme¤i tamaml›yordu.” II. Mahmud dönemindesarayda oldu¤u gibi ‹stanbul’da da seçkinçevrelerde yavafl yavafl alafranga yeni sofradüzeni tan›nmaya bafllanm›flt›r. Pardoean›lar›nda davet edildi¤i evlerde kendisinesunulan yemekleri anlat›rken sofra düzenlerininbazen alaturka bazen de alafranga oldu¤unuaktar›r. Fakat çatal b›çak kullan›m›n›n hemRumlar hem de Türkler için benimsenmesi zorsofra araçlar› oldu¤unu da ilave eder.

Sonuç olarak II. Mahmud döneminde seçkinOsmanl› mutfak kültüründe sofrada alaturka

French cuisine and even went so far as to statethat the lamb in the Turkish dishes was superiorin quality. Pardoe describes a feast prepared forguests in Istanbul in the 1830s as follows:“...nine slaves, forming a line from the table tothe door, waited upon us and we partook of anendless variety of boiled, stewed, roasted andbaked food: delicious cinnamon soup, chickenfarcied with fine herbs and olives, anchovycakes, pilaf, chopped meat and spiced rice rolledin preserved wine leaves, the most delicate ofpastry, and the most costly of conserves. Manycoloured sherbets and lemonade completed therepast…” In the era of Mahmud II the elite sec-tions of society in Istanbul slowly becameacquainted with the new style of dining, alafranga,via the palace. In Pardoe’s memoires, whiledescribing the table arrangements of the feastsshe participated in at people’s houses, she statesthat these were sometimes alaturka, sometimes

Dondurma tak›m›

Ice-cream set(MSA)


|347|

Vermeyince Mabud Neylesin Mahmud

Rivayet olunur ki; Tebdil gezdi¤i bir gün Sultan II. Mahmud’un yolu bir kahvehaneyedüflmüfl. Bakm›fl ki insanlar kahveciye “T›kand› Baba…” diye sesleniyorlar, merak etmifl -Hay›rd›r baba, anlat bakal›m, nerden geliyor bu T›kand› Baba nâm›? - Uzun hikaye evlat, demifl T›kand› Baba, ne sen sor ne ben söyleyeyim. - Anlat baba anlat merak ettim, deyip ›srar etmifl Sultan Mahmud. T›kand› Baba da lâ-havle çekipbafllam›fl anlatmaya: Bundan birkaç sene evvel bir gece rüyamda bir kara kalabal›¤a rastlad›m, birhavz›n etraf›na halkalanm›fllar. Gördüm ki her birinin bir çeflmesi var, kimi gürül gürül, kimi fl›r›l fl›r›lak›yor. Benimkini araflt›rd›m, ince bir suyun nazlanarak akt›¤› bir ufak çeflme gösterdiler. “Benimki deonlar›nki kadar aksa ya” diye sitem edip bir a¤aç dal› ald›m ve olu¤u açmaya çal›flt›m. U¤rafl›rken dalk›r›ld›, akan su damlamaya düfltü. Bu sefer, “Hiç olmazsa eskisi kadar damlas›n” diye bir dahazorlad›m çeflmem tamamen t›kand›. Ben yine açmak için u¤rafl›rken yeflil donlu H›z›r göründü gözüme:“T›kand›, baba, t›kand›; u¤raflma art›k” dedi. O gün bu gün ad›m “T›kand› baba” kald›, hangi dalaelimi att›ysam kurudu. fiimdide burada çayc›l›k yap›p maifletimizi ç›karmaya gayret ediyorum.T›kand› Baba’n›n anlatt›klar› Sultan’›n ilgisini celbeder. Saraya dönüfl yolunda adamlar›na birhindinin içini alt›n doldurup kahveye iletmelerini buyurur. Akflama do¤ru hindiyi alan T›kand› Babapek bir mesut olur. Ama viran olas› hanede evlad ü iyal var, aç bi-ilaç bekleflir durur. “Bu hindiyibir ö¤ünde yiyece¤imize, en iyisi, bunu satay›m da hanenin ihtiyac›n› göreyim” deyip hindiyimünasip bir fiyata elden ç›karm›fl.Ertesi gün adam gönderip de T›kand› Baba’n›n nasibinin aç›l›p aç›lmad›¤›n› ö¤renmek isteyen sultan,bir de¤ifliklik olmad›¤› haberini al›r. Bunu üzerine adamlar›na:- Bir ay boyunca bu adama her gün bir tepsi baklava getireceksiniz. Her dilimin alt›nda bir alt›nkoyacaks›n›z, der. Sultan›n adamlar› ertesi akflam bir tepsi baklavay› getirip T›kand› Baba’yaverirler. T›kand› Baba al›r bakar ki baklava pek enfes, lakin tatl›dan daha acil ihtiyaçlar› var. Buhediyeyi de az bir bedel karfl›l›¤›nda satar. Daha sonraki günlerde gelen baklavalar› ve alt›ndakialt›nlar› da ayn› ak›bet bekler. Bir ay geçince Sultan Mahmud tekrar T›kand› Baba’n›n kahvehanesine gitmifl ama bu sefer padiflahk›yafetleriyle. Ama ne görsün: T›kand› Baba eskisi gibi bi-nasib çay da¤›t›yor. Sultan sormufl:- T›kand› Baba, sana hiç baklava gelmedi mi? - Geldi sultan›m, demifl T›kand› Baba, hem de her akflam.- Peki sen ne yapt›n o baklavalar›?- Sat›p hanemin ihtiyaçlar›n› giderdim sultan›m. Sultan ac› ac› gülümsemifl: Anlafl›ld› T›kand› Baba, anlafl›ld›, deyip alm›fl onu saraya, hazineodas›na götürmüfl, baba fluradan küre¤i al, dald›r, küre¤ine ne gelirse hepsi senindir, demifl. T›kand› Baba birden bire aç›lan nasip kap›s›nda heyecanlan›p küre¤i ters tutarak dald›rm›fl alt›ny›¤›n›na. Kald›r›p küre¤i bakm›fl ki bir tane alt›n küre¤in ucundan düflmek üzere. Bunun üzerine sultan: Baba senin buradan da nasibin yok, demifl. Sonra da adamlar›na bir talimatverip T›kand› Baba’y› onlarla göndermifl. Me¤er sultan demifl ki adamlar›na: - Al›n bu adam› Mahmutpafla’ya götürün. Bir tafl be¤ensin. O tafl› ne kadar uza¤a atarsa omesafedeki emlaki onun ona verin. Mahmutpafla Yokuflu’nun bafl›na gelince askerler: Hele baba, fluradan bir tafl be¤en bakal›m, demifller.T›kand› Baba da “fiu ufak, bu yumru” derken nihayet kocaman bir kayay› be¤enip alm›fl yerden. Askerler,Padiflah›m›z efendimiz, bu tafl› att›¤›n yere kadar olan emlaki sana ba¤›fllad›, demifller. Birgayretle tafl› kald›rm›fl T›kand› Baba ama tam atacakken heyecandan elinden kayd›r›p bafl›nadüflürmüfl tafl›. Orac›kta teslim-i ruh eylemifl. Askerler akibeti padiflaha haber vermifller.Raviyân-› ahbâr, nakilân-› esrâr, kailân-› rast-güftâr beyan ederler kim durub-› emsâlden“Vermeyince mabud, neylesin Mahmud” meselini dahi flol sultan ol vakit irad eylemifltir.

Tabak

Plate(MSA)


|348|

servis gelene¤i sürdürülürken, alafranga usul deyavafl yavafl uygulanmaya bafllanm›flt›r. Saray vehalk mutfa¤›nda k›rm›z› domates, fasulye,k›rm›z›biber gibi Amerika kökenli g›damaddelerinin kullan›m› yayg›nlaflm›flt›r. SaraydaFransa’dan getirilen servis tak›mlar› ve Avrupaporselenleri ra¤bet görmüfltür. Yukar›dabelirtti¤imiz tespitler, geleneksel Osmanl›mutfak kültüründe sonraki y›llarda yaflanacakolan de¤iflimin bafllang›c› olarak say›labilir.Bunlar›n d›fl›nda, klasik dönemden farkl› olaraktarator, bal›k yemekleri, salata, revani gibi yeniyemek çeflitleri, II. Mahmud dönemiyle birliktesaray›n ve üst tabakan›n mutfa¤›na girmifltir.Önceki birçok padiflahla ortak yiyecekleritüketen II. Mahmud’un sofras›, ayn› zamandahavyar, sardalye, k›l›ç bal›¤›, narenciye reçellerive b›ld›rc›n gibi lezzetlerle ço¤u sultan›nsofras›ndan ayr›lmaktayd›. Yemek zevki bu kadariyi olan bir padiflah›n, dönemin keyif araçlar›olan kahve, çubuk ve nargileye bigâne kalmas›da elbette düflünülemezdi.

alafranga. However, she adds that the knives andforks were difficult utensils both the Rums andthe Turks to get accustomed to.

In conclusion, while the alaturka servicetradition continued in the Ottoman culinaryculture in elite circles during the reign ofMahmud II, the alafranga style slowly started tobe implemented. American foodstuffs, like redtomatoes, beans and red peppers, started to findtheir way into the cuisine of both the palaceand the people. In the palace dinner sets,brought from France, and European porcelainwere in great demand. As stated above, this canbe considered to be the start of the changes thatwere to be experienced in the Ottoman cuisinein later years. In addition, differing from theclassical period, new dishes like tarator, fishdishes, salad and revani entered the cuisine ofthe palace and the high-ranking elite in theperiod of Mahmud II. The feasts of Mahmud IIserved some of the same foods that the sultansbefore had served, and were distinguished bycaviar, sardines, swordfish, citrus jams and quail.We cannot think that a sultan who had such ataste in food would deprive himself of thepleasure of coffee, pipe or the hookah.

Past›rma-Sucuk/Past›rma-Spicy Sausage

Kili past›rmas›Kili pastramiEdirne past›rmas›Edirne pastramiYerli past›rmaIstanbul pastramiSilistre past›rmas›Silistre pastramiKayseri past›rmas›Kayseri pastramiYerli sucukIstanbul spicy sausageAla Göden sucu¤uHigh quality spicy sausageof Göden

Peynir/Cheese

Kaflkaval peyniriHard yellow cheeseMudurnu peyniriMudurnu cheese ‹znikmit tulum peyniriGoat cheese of ‹znikmit Rumeli tulum peyniriRumelian goat chesse Edirne kaflkaval›Edirne yellow cheese Kaflar taklidi peyniriImitation yellow cheese Balkan kaflkaval peyniriBalkan yellow cheese Salamura peyniriFeta cheeseVarna tulum peyniriVarna goat cheeseLimni peyniriLemnos cheese

Süt- Yo¤urt-Kay-mak/Milk-Yoghurt-Cream

Üsküdar kayma¤›Clotted cream of Üsküdar KaymakClotted creamHalis sütPure milkKaymakl› sütMilk without cream Çanak yo¤urduBowl of yoghurtKova yo¤urduBucket of yoghurt

Di¤erleri/Other

TahinTahini Beyaz ve k›rm›z› tahinWhite and red tahiniTirilye zeytiniTirilye olivesKaramürsel zeytiniKaramürsel olivesGirit hurma zeytiniCrete date olivesGirit k›rma zeytiniCrete cut olivesGirit alma zeytiniCrete apple olivesAla flehdane leblebiHigh quality roasted chickpeasHurda leblebiCracked roasted chickpeas YufkaYufka (filo) pastrySirkeVinegarKahveCoffee

‹stanbul Piyasas›nda Bulunan G›da Maddelerinden Örnekler / Examples of Foodstuffs found on theIstanbul Market


|349|

Tah›llar ve Tah›lBazl› G›dalar/Pulse andGrainBased Foods

M›s›r pirinciEgyptian riceFilibe pirinciPlovdiv riceBeypazar› pirinciBeypazar› riceBeyaz Ada pirinciWhite rice of AdaK›rm›z› Ada pirinciRed rice of Ada Trabzon pirinciTrabzon riceBoyabat pirinciBoyabat riceDövülmüfl bu¤dayPounded wheat Dövülmüfl flairPounded barley Çorbal›k bulgurBulghur for soupPilavl›k bulgurBulghur for pilaf K›br›s flehriyesiCyprus vermicelliMakarnal›k flehriyePasta vermicelliMakarnal›k K›br›s flehriyesiCyprus pasta vermicelliPilavl›k K›br›s flehriyesiCyprus vermicelli for pilaf Tekfurda¤›’n›n y›ld›z flehriyesiTekfurda¤› star vermicelliMermer niflastaPure starchEvsat niflastaAverage starch Dakik-i hass-› ekmekçiWhite flour for breadDakik-i hass-› çörekçiWhite flour for bun Dakik-i hassü’l-hassWhite flourTel kaday›fShredded pastryYass› kaday›fDried cake desertGüllaçFilo pastry of starch

Baklagiller/Pulses

Tuna mercime¤iDanube Lentils NohutChickpeasBörülceBlack-eyed peasMercimekLentilKuru baklaDried broad beansFasulyeDried beans

fieker-Bal-Pekmez/Sugar-Honey-Molasses

Kufladas› bal›Kufladas› honeyÂlâ Balç›k bal›High quality honey of Balç›kEvsat balç›k bal›Average quality honey of Balç›kAtina bal›Athenian honeyFrengi toz flekerEuropean caster sugarFelemenk flekeriFlemish sugar Prime tabir olunur âlâ tozflekerHigh quality caster sugarcalled primeTorba toz Frenk flekeriSack of European caster sugarfieker-i reçelSugar for jams fieker-i flerbetSugar for sherbets Akide ve peynir ve sairenvai flekerHard sweets and cheeseand other sweets Kelle Frenk flekeriEuropean loaf sugarF›ç› pekmezBarrel of MolassesTesti pekmezJar of molasses

Ya¤lar/Oils

Sadeya¤Plain oilÇiçek ya¤›Sunflower oilRevgân-› zeytOlive oil fiir-i revganMilk butter Bezir ya¤›Linseed oil Revgân-› çerviflTail fatRevgân-› donSuet

Ci¤erci

A liver-seller(Gouffier)


|350|

Et/Meat

Lahm-› ganemMuttonLahm-› kuzuLambLahm-› bakarBeefÜtülenmifl koyun ve keçi paças›Sheep and goat trotters Suda piflmifl koyun ve keçi bafl›Boiled mutton or goat headKuflbafl› kebab›Kebab on skewers K›yma kebab›Minced kebab on skewers

Ekmek-Çörek-Simit/Bread- Rolls-Simit

Gurabiye-i sükkeriSweet CookiesK›yyelik francalaFrench loafNân-› azîzDaily breadNân-› francalaFrench loafSimitCircular bread with sesame seedfiam halkas›Circular bread of DamascusKaba çörekSimple bread rollYa¤l› çörekFatty bread rollYa¤l› simitCircular bread with sesame seeds & butterGevrekBreadstickYa¤l› börekSavoury pastry with butterNohut halkaBread roll made of chickpea flourYa¤l› kahiKind of Savoury Pastryfiam böre¤iSavoury Pastry of DamascusYa¤l› lokumFatty small cakeArap gevre¤iArab breadstickYarma lokumYa¤l› po¤açaFatty flaky pastryYa¤l› gözlemeFatty savoury pancakeTabe po¤aças›Flaky pastry cooked in pan

Tatl› Yiyecekler/Sweets

KöfterThin sheet of sun-dried grape molassesTatl› pestilThin sheet of sun-dried sweet fruit pulpEkfli pestilThin sheet of sun-dried sour fruitpulpBulamaGrape molasses sweetBaklavaRevani-i sükkerîCake soaked in sugar syrupRevani-i aselîCake soaked in honey syrupTahin helvas›Tahini halvaSusam helvas›Sesame halvaSabuniye helvas›Sabuniye halvaGaziler helvas›Gaziler halvaF›st›k helvas›Pistachio halvaF›nd›k helvas›Hazelnut halvaCeviz helvas›Walnut halvaKeten helvas›

Sebzeler/Vegetables Meyveler/Fruits

Sultani bamya /Sultani okra, Kara bamya/Black okra,Âlâ Hersek patl›can›/High quality Hersek aubergine,Topaç patl›can/Topaç aubergine, Göksupatl›can›/Göksu aubergine, Kemer patl›can›/Kemeraubergine, Kas›mpafla patl›can›/Kas›mpafla aubergine,‹zmit patl›can›/‹zmit aubergine, Kuru patl›can/Driedaubergine, Sak›z kaba¤›/Zucchini, Nohutkaba¤›/Courgette, Bal kaba¤›/Pumpkin, Kebir yuvarlakkabak/Large round squash, Sagir yuvarlak kabak/Smallround squash, Dolma kaba¤›/Courgette for Stuffing,Yerli dolma kaba¤›/Local courgette for stuffing, Âlâ uzunasma kaba¤›/Good quality long gourd, Fasulye/Beans,

Armut/Pears, Erik/Plums, ‹ncir/Figs,Elma/Apples, Amasya elmas›/Amasya apple, Sinopelmas›/Sinop apple, Misket-çekirdek-ferikelmalar›/Misket-çekirdek-ferik apples, Be¤ ve âlâ yerebasmaz armutlar›/Be¤ and high quality yere basmaz pears,Armut kurusu/Dried pears, Keçi boynuzu/Carob,F›st›k/Peanuts, Bursa kestanesi/Bursa chestnuts,Karamürsel kestanesi/Karamürsel chestnuts, Kuzukestanesi/Small chestnuts (kuzu chestnuts),Kufl üzümü/Black currants, Frengi kufl üzümü/Redcurrants, Konya kufl üzümü/Konya black currants,Üsküdar’›n âlâ çavufl üzümü/Üsküdar high quality yellow

Simitçi

A simit (bread roll) seller(Gouffier)

Salepci

A salep (milky drink made withorchid root) seller

(Gouffier)


|351|

Çal› fasulyesi/String beans, Kara fasulye/Black beans,Kemer fasulyesi/Kemer beans,P›rasa/Leek, Ispanak/Spinach, fialgam/Swede,Lahana/Cabbage, Salata/Lettuce, Karalahana/Chard,Havuç/Carrots, Maydanoz/Parsley,Ebegümeci/Mallow, Kereviz/Celeriac, Turp/Turnip,Bay›r turbu/Bay›r turnip, Kestane turbu/Kestane turnip,S›¤›rdili/Borage, Asma yapra¤›/Vine leaves, Müluhiyye,Dar›c› enginar›/Dar›ca artichokes, Âlâ yerlienginar/Good quality Istanbul artichokes, Vasat yerlienginar›/Average Istanbul artichokes,Semizotu/Purslane, Bezelye/Peas, Pancar/Beet,Karnabit (karn›bahar)/Cauliflower, Kavata/Bittertomato, Frenk badincan›/Tomato, Arpac›k so¤an›/Babyonions, Kaba so¤an/Large onions, Geliboluso¤an›/Gallipoli onions

grapes, Taflradan gelen âlâ çavufl üzümü/Good qualityyellow grapes from the provinces, Çekirdeksizüzüm/Seedless grapes, Âlâ Karaburun razak›s›üzümü/Good quality long yellow grapes of Karaburun,Âlâ Foça razak›s› üzümü/Good quality long yellowgrapes of Foça, Çeflme razak›s› üzümü/Long yellow grapeof Çeflme, Karaburun siyah üzümü/Karaburun blackgrapes, ‹zmir Be¤lercesi üzümü/‹zmir Be¤lerce grapes,Âlâ ball› hurda ‹zmir siyah› üzümü/Good quality sweet‹zmir black grapes, ‹stanköy razak›s› üzümü/Long yellowgrape of ‹stanköy, Âlâ Çeflme siyah› üzümü/Goodquality black grapes of Çeflme, Afla¤› Çeflme siyah›üzümü/Average Çeflme black grapes, Foça siyah›üzümü/Foça black grapes, Edremit’in ac›k›ran razak›s›üzümü/Long yellow grape of Edremit, fiam kay›s›s›/Damascene apricots, ‹¤de/Oleaster, ‹zmit ve Dar›cakiraz›/‹zmit and Dar›ca cherries, Kara kiraz/Blackcherries, Can eri¤i/Green plums, Âlâ haf›z eri¤i/Goodquality haf›z plums, Mürdüm eri¤i/Mürdüm plums,Bardak eri¤i/Bardak plums, Dut eri¤i/Mulberry plums,Yerli viflne/Local sour cherries, Taflra viflnesi/Sourcherries from the provinces, Portakal/Orange, Üvez/Sorbus, Manisa kavunu/Manisa melon, Mankafa tabirolunur âlâ kebir karpuz/Very big watermelon calledmankafa, Kebir karpuz/Big watermelon, Vasat karpuz/Medium size watermelon, Sagir karpuz/Small watermelon

KAYNAKLAR / SOURCES

I- Baflbakanl› Osmanl› Arflivi Cevdet Saray, nr. 7/ 450/ 2830/ 104/ 5832/ 579/ 1772/ 8905/3061/ 4849/ 1812/ 2589. DBfiM, nr. 8800/ 9895. DBfiM. MTE, nr. 11700/ 11712/ 11703.HH. D. nr, 21732/ 15551/ 2501/ 17500/ 22523.Kamil Kepeci, Masraf-› fiehriyârî, nr. 7145. Kamil Kepeci, nr. 3749/ 7247/ 7331/ 7336/ 7340/ 7345/7347/ 7337/ 7335.

II- ‹stanbul Müftülü¤ü fier’iyye Sicilleri Arflivi ‹stanbul Mahkemesi, nr. 118; Galata, nr. 0014. III- Araflt›rma ve ‹nceleme EserleriBilgin, Arif, Osmanl› Saray Mutfa¤›, ‹st. 2004.Bilgin, Arif, “Narh Listeleri ve Üsküdar Mal Piyasas› (1642-1708)”, V. Üsküdar Sempozyumu Bildirileri,ed. Coflkun Y›lmaz, ‹st. 2007, s. 155-191.Bilgin, Arif, “Osmanl›-Avusturya Savafllar› S›ras›nda‹stanbul Piyasas› (1693-1697)”, Türklük Araflt›rmalar› Der.,sy. 17, (‹st. 2005), s. 97-125.Bilgin, Arif, “Bolulu Aflç›lar›n Osmanl› Saray Mutfa¤›naGiriflleri”, Bolu’da Halk Kültürü ve Köro¤lu Uluslararas›Sempozyumu, Bolu 1997, Bolu 1998, s. 43-55.H›z›r ‹lyas, Târih-i Enderun, ‹st. trs.Mehmet Kamil, Melceü’t-tabbâhîn, ‹st. 1260.

Pardoe, Julia, The City of the Sultan and Domestic Manners ofthe Turks in 1838, III, London 1854.Samanc›, Özge, La Culture Culinaire d’Istanbul au XIXe

Siècle L’alimentation, les techniques culinaires et les manières detable (XIX. Yüzy›l ‹stanbul Mutfak Kültürü: Beslenme,Yemek Piflirme Teknikler ve Sofra Adab›), EHESS,bas›lmam›fl doktora tezi, Paris 2009.Samanc›, Özge, “19. Yüzy›l›n Birinci Yar›s›nda Osmanl›Elitinin Yeme-‹çme Al›flkanl›klar›”, Sofram›z Nur HanemizMamur, ed. S. Faroqhi & C. Neumann, ‹st. 2006,s. 185-208.Samanc›, Özge, “19. Yüzy›l ‹stanbul Mutfa¤›nda YeniLezzetler”, Yemek ve Kültür, ‹st. 2006, 86-96.Samanc›, Özge, “Vegetable Patrimony of the OttomanCulinary Culture”, Proceedings of the IVth InternationalCongress of Ethnobotany (ICEB 2005), ‹st. 2006, s. 565-570.Slade, Adolphus, Records of Travels in Turkey, Greece, and of aCruise in the Black Sea with the Capitan Pacha, I, Baltimore 1833.Tyrrell, Henri, The History of Present War with Russia, givingfull details of the operations of the Allied Armies, I, London 1855. Y›ld›z, Mehmet, Abdülhak Molla ve Tarih-i Livâ’s›, Tahlil veTenkidli Metin, ‹.Ü. S.B.E., yüksek lisans tezi, ‹stanbul 1995.Walsh, Robert, A Residence at Constantinople, II,London 1836.

Helvac›

A helva seller(Gouffier)


“II. Mahmut Döneminde İstanbul ve Saray Mutfağı” II. Mahmut Yeniden Yapılanma Sürecinde...

Documents

Transcript of “II. Mahmut Döneminde İstanbul ve Saray Mutfağı” II. Mahmut Yeniden Yapılanma Sürecinde...