He Heart of Japan - Forgotten Books

HE HEART OF JAPANGLIMPSES OF LIFE AND NATURE

FAR FROM THE TRAVELLERS ’ TRACK

IN THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN

CLARENCE LUDLOW fBROWNELL0I

MEMBER OF JAPAN SOCIETY OF LONDON

W ITH TWENTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS

THIRD ED ITION

METHUEN co .

3 6 E SSEX STRE ET W .C.

LON D ON

1904

CURTIS BROWN

M21‘

6805

INTRODUCTORY NOTE

E l ived so far from the travellers’ track inJapan

,-often where no foreigner had been

before, —and had seen and heard so much of whatseemed to us humorous

,tragic

,quaint

,or thought

worthy,that we dared to believe sometimes that we

were getting glimpses of the real inner spirit of thenative l ife— a spirit far different from that of thetourist-worn borders of this ancient and fascinatingLand of the Rising Sun .

Whether or not we are flattering ourselves unduly,

the five years that one of us spent in the interior ofJapan , sometimes teaching English in the Government schools

,sometimes idling

,always l iving as the

natives l ive,were crowded with joyous entertainment

In striving to reproduce some faint tint of thischarm , it seemed wisest to present each episode orimpression separately—here a personal experience,there a story heard in some peasant’s hut or amongthe temples

,or from some old warrior of the feudal

days , and again a ventured comment, picturingdifferent phases of the l ife of Japan

,one after another,

as on a screen—seemingly detached,perhaps

, yet

knit together by the underlying desire to present thenative point of view.

JAPAN SOC IETY,20 HANOVER SQUARE,

LONDON , VV .

CONTENTS

CHAP.I . KONO H ITO AND THE PRAYER PUMP

I I . 0 TOYO SAN

I I I . OUR LANDLORDIV. THE HONOURABLE BATH

V . THE AUGUST DEPARTURE

V I . THE GUEST WHO COULD NOT GO

V I I . THE OBED IENT BED

VI I I . ONE WHO WONIX. TH INKING IN JAPANESEX . B0 CHANX I. 0 JO SAMA

XI I . HAPPY NEW YEAR

X I I I . “CH ITS ” AND PERD ITION

XIV . THE CENSOR AND THE CRAFTY ED ITOR

XV . BOBBYXVI . PLAYHOUSES, PLAYERS, AND PLAYSXVI I . “

MUSIC ”

XV I I I . BLOSSOMS ALWAYS IN BLOOM

X Ix . SIGNS OF THE TIMESXX . Bows AND BALLOTS

XXI . THE FLOWERS or TOKIOXX I I . IN THE K INDERGARTEN DAYSXX I I I . IN TRADE

CONTENTS

CRAP.

XXIV. D IVING BELLES

XXV. AMONGST THE GODS

XXVI . ON THE EARTHQUAKE PLANXXV I I . M ISSIONAR IES AND M ISSIONARIES

XXV I I I . GILDED W ITH OLD GOLD

XXIX . AND SO HE BECAME A SAINTXXX. KADE AND THE REPEATERS

XXXI . KADE WOULD ADVENTUREXXXI I . WHAT HAPPENED To ALLEN

XXXI I I . THE SPORTSMAN IN JAPAN

XxxIv. THE FATHER OF THE V ILLAGEXXXV . THE THEFT OF THE GOLDEN SCALE

XXXV I . THE KANJ IXXXVI I. THE REVERENCE OF KATO

L IST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

THE FAMOUS DRAGON FOUNTAIN"

0 mm SAN’

S H OME Tof acepage 1 2

NICH IYOB I WAS OUR HOME DAY

THE GARDENS OF THE OLD TEMPLE

THE OBED IENT BED

JAPANESE NURSES CARRY BABIES ON THEIR BACKS

HE GAME OF“KITSUNE

”FOX

“KITSU

’

NE KEN

JAPANESE GIRLS AT HOME

A SAMURA I W ITH PRISONERGAKUN IN

IN JAPAN EVERYONE IS ALWAYS ENTERTAINING SOMEONE

A GEISHA .

SIGNS OF THE T IMES (A)SIGNS OF THE TIMES (B)TOKIOGOKU TEMPLE

THE TERA OR BUDDH IST TEMPLE

THE GATEWAY OF THE M IYA,SH INTo TEMPLE

AM IDA, THE BUDDHA

THE EFFECTS OF AN EARTHQUAKE

FIGHTING PR IESTSHERE H IDEYOSH I , THE TAIKO, DRANK H IS TEA

NIGHT-FISH ING IN JAPAN

THE HEART OF J APAN

CHA PTER I

KONO HITO AND THE PRAYER PUMP

ARDNER and I met Kono Hito the first timewe went up the west coast. He was the

thriftiest man in Japan . Even taken together wewere not his equal . He lived near a temple less thanone hundred ri 1 from Kanazawa. If he had beenfarther from the temple he would have been just asclose

,but he might not have discovered the fact to

the world,nor have wasted away on account of his

unlovely trait.Kono H ito was a farmer. Like most native

farmers, he raised rice. To do SO he had to havewater, and plenty of it, enough to cover thousands oftsubo,

” as the Japanese say. (A tsubo is the S izeof two mats, or thirty-six square feet.) He ownedsome fifty fields

,lying side by side. They were small

and fenceless ; only low ridges of earth marked theboundaries of the fields

,and these ridges

,when the

rice had grown,were lost to V iew. At the time of1 I ri= about 2} miles.

THE HEART OF JAPAN

planting they would be mushy, but at harvest timethey would become dry and hard, so that a mancould walk along them easily if he had occasion .

Kono’s way of cult ivating them was to throw seedrice—that is rice kernels in the shell—over the surface Of his ponds , where it sprouted, and wove intoa tangled mat of deep

,rich green. When the rice

blades were s ix inches long,and had well-formed

roots,he would disentangle them

,and

,gathering

them in clusters,would plant them in the mud at

two-foot intervals, along rows two feet apart andparallel . This made the rows regular

,l ike the lines

of a checker board, with a bunch of rice wherever twolines crossed . The board itself was al l water at first

,

and had to remain water until nearly time for harvest,

for Kono Hito grew swamp rice only. He said therewas no money in upland rice. I t was too hard

,and

would not sel l for the cost of growing it.A drought

,therefore

,was about as bad a thing as

could happen to Kono Hito. He must'

have water orgo to the money lenders, and once he went to themthere would be no end of going until they had possession of his rice-fields . Kono Hito knew the fateof borrowers full well, and to save himself from suchcalamity he built dams above his fields to makereservoirs

,he dug ditches from one field to the

other,and he observed the Buddhist fast days . In

spite of all this,however

,his crops turned yellow

earl ier than those of his neighbour Sono Hito,the

rice grower on the Opposite S ide of the road—a highway that passed between their paddy-fields and ledto the temple and beyond.

KONO HITO AND THE PRAYER PUMP 3

Komaru domo ! said Kono H ito as he camealong this road in h is j in-rik i-sha one day.

“ Do

shimasho ka ?”

(“ What shall we do P But though

he spoke to himself of trouble,and asked himself how

to avoid it,he did not talk out loud. He sought

to succeed by keeping more fas t days, workingharder in his fields, building tiny shrines , l ike dolls

’

houses,at his reservoirs

,and bringing the household

economy down to such a fine point that Okusama,

his wife,dared not lose SO much as a grain of rice

in a month . But with al l his prayers and hisskimping

,he had not water enough. His fields

were brown when Sono H ito’s were stil l green .

“ Hontoni komaru ! Trouble indeed !Sono H ito , the meanwhile, was not worrying.

He was a patriarch in the Home of Happy Hus

bandmen,” and never had bad years, even though

he kept few fasts and was not more than halfcareful of h is reservoirs .A lot of folk worked for him , however, and with

Out knowing it, though they were glad in theirunconscious service. They were good Buddhistsof the Hongwanj i sect, passing daily to the grandold temple overlooking the sea. They offered almsto Amida, the Buddha, and ere they Offered theywashed themselves

,as good folk do before they

worship . Sono H ito,Of course, knew this, for he

went himself to the temple sometimes and tookthe prel iminary bath just as the others d id . I t wasWhile he was taking one of these baths that theidea which resulted in Kono Hito ’s “ komaru ” hadoccurred to Sono San . This is the idea.

4 THE HEART OF JAPAN

Sono’s rice-fields reached quite up to the templegrove. He would build a shrine in honour of thetemple’s god a little this side Of the gate of thetemple, and near the road. He would S ink a wellthere. It would needs be a deep well , it is true,but Sono’s crops had been good and he would notbegrudge the cost. Having dug the well he wouldplace a tablet before the shrine, bearing a declarationof the dedication of his offering to the temple’s godon behalf of those who worshipped there. He wouldgive each worshipper all the pure water he mightdesire for a bath, and would not charge him for it.Al l the worshipper need do would be to pump andhelp himself! I t was a grand scheme, such as onlya man who had seen the world could have evolved .

Sono had been a traveller.He knew “ Yokohama, Nagasak i, Hakodate, hai,

personally, for he had been there. He had seenmissionaries in Tokio and merchants in the treatyports. To one of the missionaries he owed hisinspiration . The reverend gentleman had shownhim a praying water-wheel from Ind ia. I t was partOf a collection the learned preacher had gatheredat various stations he had occupied in the FarEast. Sono San delighted in the collection , butthe praying -wheel pleased him most. If he hadhad a place on his west coast rice-fields to set oneUp he would have begged the missionary to gethim one from the ancient home of Buddhism.

Some days after he had seen this supplicationmade-simple apparatus

,so much S impler than the

man - power prayer -wheels of the Tokio temples ,


Sono received an invitation from one of the missionary’s friends

,a S ilk merchant in Yokohama. This

man wished to make acquaintances on the westcoast

,especially in Fukui and Kanagawa Kens,

where the silkworms spin well . Sono, alwaysready “ to see the new thing,

” to learn somethingand to have a good time

,took the train at Shim

bashi station that afternoon,and within an hour

was at “ Yama Namban,

” as the j in-riki-sha cool iescalled the merchant’s house.Sono Hito had a wonderful time at this foreigner’s

home. The yoshoku ,the setsu-in

,the nedai

,and

the danru, with its kemuridashi, were marvellous tohim , but the thing that tickled him especially waswhat he called the “ midzu-age kikai

,

” or waterraising machine

,not far from the kitchen door.

He played with this a half-hour steadily, until hewas al l of a sweat and had flooded his host’s backyard and turned the tennis - court into a Soppymarsh .

Nothing would do but he must have one tooperate at his home over on the west coast, andas the kikai was not in stock at any of the Yokohama agencies, Sono Hito

’s host promised to getone for him from San Francisco .

“ I’

l l send it over to you as soon as it arrives,

said MO-H itotsu-Smith San . (M. H . S . S . was thesecond Smith to come to Yokohama after Perry’sdeparture. The first Smith was merely “ SmithSan

,

” but the second was MO-H itotsu-Smith San , tie.

more - one - Smith Mr.) He did better than that,

however, he took the apparatus over h imself three


months later,and Showed his Japanese friend how

to set it up and how he could use it to fi l l astorage tank so as to have water for emergencies.So Sono H ito had men dig the well wide and

deep . There was not such another wel l in thatpart of the country. Kono H ito, across the road,had nothing in the least comparable. He wouldnot have Spent so much money on a wel l had hebeen never so rich

,and in these days he thought

himself a very poor man indeed . I t grieved himto think that anything that cost money should benecessary in his household . The sight of his peopleeating made him i ll

,and the prosperity across the

road was l ike fire against his face. He could not

endure to look at it. But as Kono H ito su ffered ,Sono H ito worked at his well shrine. The building was beautiful in design as anything pertainingto Hongwanj i would be. Ins ide, over at one end,was a broad

,shallow

,wooden tank for the bather

to sit in,and, before the tank , ample floor space

,

where the worshipper would have room to use histenugu i or scrubbing towel , such as all Japanesecarry with them . At the end Opposite the tankwas the shrine

,and beside the tank was a device

strange to the natives of the west coast. Sono

called it a prayer - machine. Over it was a gakubearing the Chinese inscription,

“ Bonno kuno ”

Al l lust is griefAn Englishman would not have thought of prayer

in connection with this device. He would doubt ifthe Japanese used water prayer-wheels, and wouldhave said simply “ chain - pump .

” But one may

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The idea pleased everyone unless it were KonoHito, for Buddhists are partial to cataract baths .They take them the year round

,even in winter,

though possibly they do not enjoy them then , atleast not with obvious hilarity. In Tokio, the capital,in spite of its modernisation

,the traveller sees native

men and women standing naked under a fall Of

water in some of the temple parks. In Decemberand January this water is well down to freez ingpoint. The Japanese do this because they knowthere is virtue in a cataract. Wherever one is, thatplace is sacred. If there is none they Often takegreat pains to make artific ial falls

,especially in the

neighbourhood of temples.They are purifiers beyond all else

,these “ from

heaven-descending ” streams . Therefore, when SonoSan made his Offer of a free bath—a cataract bath !something the region about the beloved temple hadnot known since the O j ishin (the great earthquake),which, hundreds of years before, had broken up thecountry, letting out the upper waters and ruiningtheir plans of holy ablution—he became the mostpopular man in the ken .

Sono Hito was deeply grateful to his foreignfriend , who had showed him how to rig the pumpso as to deliver the water into a tank in the roofof the Shrine. This tank was a distributing reservoir.Part Of the water that the worshippers pumped intoit poured down in a stream on to the head of whoever might be working at the crank, as he or she

sat in the tub. The greater part, however, flowedaway into channels through the rice-fields . AS the


pious came,therefore

,and worked the prayer-machine,

they accomplished three things at once which,in

the order of Sono San’s idea of their importance,would read—pumping, irrigat ion , and purification .

This explains how Sono Hito kept things green ,and why Kono Hito said “ Komaru.

Poor Kono Hito worried greatly over the earlyyellowishness of his fields . He did not understandhow Sono Hito managed. He never had been toYokohama , and he knew nothing of chain-pumps.He believed that Sono Hito’s piety had won favourin Buddha’s eyes

,and that the gods had blessed

the fields as a mark of divine pleasure. I f he couldhave a bath shrine he might Win favour too

,but that

would cost money ; and then to give the baths free,not to charge even a one-rin 1 piece for themi—thethought was too painful .Still

,if Buddha would smile on him

,it might pay

,

thought Kono. I t would pay -but to spend themoney.

“ Domo ! Komaru ne l ” SO he devisedhow he might be pious cheaply.

“ Namm Omahen de gisu,

” said the wife in thedialect of her district when a man called one morningto see Kono Hito . She meant he was not at home

(in Tokio she might have said :“ Tadaima rusu de

gozaimasu.

” That would have conveyed a S im i laridea). SO the man went away.

Down the road he heard a voice calling Korario,

which to those who l ive in that region means,Come

here. The man went in the direction of the call,

and found Kono Hito busy with a carpenter and1 One rin equals one-tenth of a farthing.


well-digger, discussing plans for an opposition bathshrine. Kono Hito was in agony over the cost,but the workmen had reached their lowest limit,and

,with many bows

,were protesting that if they

cut their price down even a “ mo further they wouldnot have enough left to pay for the air they breathedwhile digging. So Kono had to give in .

Within a week the plans had materialised . Therewas a wel l with a pair of buckets

,a tub

,and a shrine

dedicated to the use of worshippers. I t was not acataract bath

,nor was the well deep

,but Kono H ito

hoped Buddha would take his poverty into accountand smile as sweetly as though the water fel l directfrom a spring on the mountain side.But Buddha did not smile. N0 one went to KonoHito’s Shrine bath unless too many had gathered atthe place across the way.

“ Without worshippersBuddha will not smile

,

” said the unhappy husbandman .

“ Komaru ne l ” And later he said tohimself

,

“ Do shimasho ka.

” This brought himinspiration .

He took a station at a point that commanded aView of the road , and whenever he saw those comingwho might be worshippers he went into Sono Hito’sshrine, sat himself in the tank , turned the crank ,and prayed vigorously.

This was a cunning scheme,for the pilgrims

,after

waiting long for Kono to finish,would decide that

such fervent piety should not be disturbed, and ,leaving the zealot in Sono H ito’s tub, they wou ldcross over to do as best they might with the twobuckets. When they had mund ificated they emptied

KONO HITO AND THE PRAYER PUMP I I

these buckets on the roadside. But sti ll Buddhadid not smile on the fields of Kono San.

Kono San,however, as he ground and ground

away,taking twenty or thirty baths a day

,chill ing

himself in the cataract, and pumping three timesas much water over Sono Hito’s fields as he broughtdown on to his aching poll

,had much tenacity

,and

a belief that if he could keep the pious to his sideof the road long enough he would receive the blessIngs his soul yearned for.He pumped and prayed heroically

,resting little

and eating less, While Sono Hito took a peep at him

occasional ly,and showed not the least vexation .

Kono San wondered at this,for he had been rather

fearful of d iscovery,and when he learned that the

man he was so jealous of had seen h im and hadsaid nothing

,he did not understand ; nor could he

understand why Buddha did not Show some Signo f favour. AS he pumped

,he puzzled upon these

things,and grew more and more attenuated . Over

bathing,even with prayers

,is not good .

When Junsa, the policeman, called Isha,the

physician , to Sono H ito’s shrine one evening

,and

let his lantern light fal l on Kono Hito’s face,the

man of medicine said ,“ Water on the brain .

” Twodays later they buried him

,and Sono Hito gave

money for a stone column to mark the resting-placeo f the dead man’s ashes. Why not ? Kono Hitoreally had helped Sono H ito a good deal .

CHAPTER I I

0 TOYO SAN

ONO H ITO took us over one day to visit hisfriends at Tatsumi

,an interesting old place,

where we had a practical demonstration of the irresistibility of Japanese hospitality. We had in

tended to spend only an afternoon,but our intentions

might as well have been non-existent for al l thatthey availed. A wooden image would have succumbed , and neither of us was an image, though,in the light of the native graciousness

,we appeared

to ourselves wooden enough . So it was that thatafternoon V isit, under Tatsumi manipulation , ex

panded into days, and the days into weeks .We were the only foreigners the villagers had

ever seen,and though it was in the days of pass

ports,the police did not ask us to produce our

papers. They had never had occasion to look upthe law about “ barbarians . Tatsumi had given usa chance indeed to see Japan at home. There wewere near enough to native life to hear the ‘heartbeat. We did not see much of the owner, H ikusaburo

,as he was away much, but his father and his

mother we came to know wel l, and also his children ,12


she would or not. Obedience was the only law She

knew,and with fi l ial piety (why is there not a good

O ld English equivalent for this term ?) She had doneher parents’ bidding, not questioning their choice.Her lot had been that of many another nativewoman .

O Toyo San must wait outside to see the childrenborn to her in Tatsumi

,a girl and a boy. The boy,

0 BO Chan , as the house-folk call him,is heir to

the ancient manor. The master Of Tatsumi is lordof al l the region round . He has owned Hombo ,

the V illage extending northward,ever S ince men first

abode there,and the checker-board of rice -fields

reaching far out towards the boundaries of N iu Gun,

one of the richest counties in the famous provinceof Echizen.

Those, however, who have long known Tatsumiand the lord thereof doubt if much but the nameof these great possessions will be left by the timeO Bo Chan has come to man’s estate. Bo’s grandfather has been inkiyo

” many years . Before he retired from active l ife to devote himself to study andmeditation he had l ived like a prince, but well withinhis income. When he handed over his estates to hisson

,H ikusaburo, he had accompanied the transfer

with much good advice, which the heir had acknowledged dutifully

,saying

,

“ Kashikomarimashita”

(“ I

l isten with respectful and Sayo de

gozaimasu (“ Honourably so augustly is ”)frequently.

But Tatsumi’s friends said Neko ni koban (“ Gold

coins to a cat ”)when they spoke among themselves,though in publ ic they held their peace.

o TOYO SAN 1 5

Since then their prophecy has been fulfi ll ingrapidly

,but the inkiyo has not paid heed. His cares

for this l ife are over, and his days are sweet andpeaceful. O Kamisan, his honoured wife, has seen,but she cannot speak. Indeed she is O Kamisanno longer

,only Obasan (grandmother). Her son has

become the head of the house,and her duty

,as a

woman ’s duty ever is in Japan,is to obey

,not to

criticise. So H ikusaburo has had free way. Neverdoes anyone say no to h im .

His father had given to him O Toyo San beforehe was done with school. She was the daughterof a rich relation, a saké brewer. The marriage, as is usual in Japan, was purely a fam ilyagreement

,without c ivil or religious ceremony

,

and of course both houses were happy over theevent.When the bride arrived at the home of her newparents

,dressed in silken robes

,and her face painted

white as chalk,the place was thronged with guests.

Tatsum i had thrown wide its gates,and there was

feasting for a week. Oj i San had dispensed clambroth and mushrooms lavishly

,and there was joy

throughout the whole of Echizen .

Later,when a boy was born

,the old walls once

more overflowed with joyousness. Oj i San smiledat his grandchild , and seeing that it was a healthybabe

,put his affairs in order and became inkiyo .

1

H ikusaburo aided him in this,for he was eager to

take control . He accepted everything with duehumility

,even to the patriarchal blessing and advice .

1 Retired from the management of affairs.


Then he began the life he had longed to lead . Hishome saw little of him

,except when he came in

with a band of geisha and made merry til l the Sun

rose. Wherever he went the samisen began to twang,and the moon-fiddle, the koto, and the drum , to fi llthe air with sounds .One day H ikusaburo

,who was now the father of

two children , fell in love. He had been in lovebefore often enough for a day or two ; but this timethe feeling clung to him

,and hurt. Of course she

was a geisha, for that was the only sort of womanH ikusaburo had paid attention to S ince he becamelord of Tatsumi . He bought her release from themaster who had trained her, and took her home,along with a dozen other of her sisters in the artof spending money. He feared lest she might belonely.

Tatsumi saw wilder times than ever it had knownbefore. Saké was as plentiful as the rain in June.Hombo hardly recognised itself. O Toyo San ,

H ikusaburo’

s wife, only was unhappy. To see herself

,the mother Of two children, supplanted by a

doll not yet fourteen years Old, was too much even

for her self-abnegation . The Cheerfulness which thenative code commands to woman was not in evidencein her countenance. H ikusaburo spoke harshly

,

but She would not brighten up. Then he sent herhome. She has not been within the walls of Tatsumisince. She would not enter though not even a ghostwere about the place.So it was when last I saw her that she sat outside

waiting while the melancholy music of the sam isen

O TOYO SAN I 7

floated out from the zashiki,where once she was

mistress, and where now my lord made merry withhis doll .The kurumaya said that possibly when my lord

was drunk she might see her children .

CHAPTER III

OUR LANDLORD

T was at Tatsumi that we met Okashi Kintaro ,who subsequently became our landlord . He

was down from the north on a vis it to some friendswith whom he had served in his fighting days .We saw him several times

,and SO enjoyed the

enthusiasm he displayed at various feastings, towhich we had the good luck to receive invitations,that we besought him to let us go along with hima way on his return.

“ Too happy,

” he assured us. Such an honourhe would not have dared to hope for. And sowith mutual satisfaction we started on the journeyup the coast.He was a triumph as a guide

,for he knew all the

interesting folk along the route,and presented us

to the choja or headman, of each village we passedthrough. Literal ly we had to eat our way. Onthe last day

,which was the hardest, we had nine

banquets . We were in Okashi’s native country bythis time

,and

,as we learned later, he had adver

tised our com ing with a showman’s zeal . Suchschools as were in session closed , and the vil lagers

18

OUR LANDLORD 19

turned out en masse to see“ the red whiskers and

“ the man with green eyes (al l eyes that are not

brown are green ” in Japanese,and beards that are

not black are “ red We fanc ied ourselves CrownPrinces on a tour

,but the truth was we were only

curiosities .I shal l never forget the breakfast of that last

day. I t was at the house of a well-to-do farmer,Hyakusho Sama, a friend of Okashi

’

s, where we

had supped and spent the night. While serving usour host had noticed that we liked a certain walnutsweet particularly

,and so the good wife had sat

up all the night mak ing more of it for our breakfast. I had never eaten walnut sweet for breakfastbefore

,and I think I never shall again . To be sure,

it was only a s ide dish,but host and hostess urged

us so often to eat some of it that we began tobelieve that it was the only thing on the floor thatthey wished us to eat. This notion was qu ite wrong

,

however,for there was the regular breakfast of cus

tards,salted plums

,mushrooms

,fish , and rice. These

were served in courses on tinywooden trays of lacqueredwood

,and in cups and bowls that would have made

a collector transgress the tenth commandment.I Should say, too, as I recal l the appearance of

the f loor whereon we sat,that the hostess had

brought in a regular dinner complete,after each

course of the breakfast,for I counted over ninety

dishes in front of Hyakusho , Okashi, Gardner andme, and many bottles besides. The largest dishesheld the walnut sweet

,more than I should have

cared to carry in a handbag, to say nothing of my


interior,but Hyakusho

’

s wife was keen,and laid our

disincl ination to eat these walnut slabs to ourmodesty. This modesty she endeavoured to overcome

,and was SO assiduous in her urging that We

made great effort to comply. We munched andmunched and munched

,mechanically and unhappily

,

until at last our hostess purred—but,oh dear !

Though some years have passed since that morning at Hyakusho Sama

’s house,the muscles of my

jaws ache now whenever I think of the work I did .

Our efforts to please the good wife put us in ratherbad form for the series of functions Okashi haddevised for our progress into his domain. Ourfaces pained us so we could not even rum inate

,

nevertheless we had to take part in eight morebanquets

,each of them much like the first except

for the walnut sweet. Had that appeared againthat day I should not have written of our journey—there would have been no time. I should havepassed on , and, being in a Buddhist country,should have been duly reincarnated, doubtlessas a huge green walnut for l ittle boys to throwthings at.The ninth banquet was at Okashi San’s own

home. I do not remember anything about it.We were in the capital of Etchiu, on the west coastof Dai Nippon, looking out over the North Sea, asthey call it there

,toward the frozen Siberian coast.

Here Okashi Kintaro had a charming home, however, a dutiful son, and a good thing. We werethe good thing. We rather enjoyed being a goodthing—that is

,we did after we had recovered ;


be our own land lord, we proceeded to hire one.

Okashi San then seemed just the man , and wethought ourselves in great luck to secure him .

So it was that when we asked him to be ourlandlord, he hailed the idea with delight. He saidhe l iked foreigners, and confided in a friend, as wediscovered, that he considered young ones werebetter than a pension . It is only fair to say thathe was brave whenever there was occasion

,and ex

ceedingly generous when he had anything to give.Often he put himself to great personal inconven ienceto do one a favour.According to our agreement we hired him to hireus as instructors in a school that offered wonderfulfacilities for teaching the English language. Okashi

rented two beautiful old temples that had flourishedin the Shogun’

s time under his bounty,but now

were empty. One was for the school and one forour living-house. He lived with his family in theschool

,and for the first month his wife cooked for

us,and both of them did our marketing. At the

end of the month we cal led for the bills . Okashi

San would not hear of it. Iye, iye l”

(“ No

,

he would repeat. “ August pardon deign , but theschool is a resplendent success, and I and my stupidwife are overwhelmed with honour. I t is we whoowe you .

”

This went on for three days, until we began tobelieve Okashi meant it, so we proceeded to putout money to other uses . When it had thus beenput

,he appeared before us one warm afternoon

with a roll of thin brown paper exactly nineteen

OUR LANDLORD 23

feet six inches in length . (We measured it alongthe edge of the tatami.” 1) I t was a bill. Okashi

San made a bow for every foot in the strip, andthen began to read it to us . I t was an obj ectlesson in Japanese minuteness of detail.Many of the items were in fractions of a farthing.

One for pepper was or, as the Japanese readit,

“ kosho is sen,go rin

,sam mo.

” Gardner saidthe sam mo (1—33 of a farthing) was unnecessaryextravagance

,as we could have had quite enough

for an even is sen go rin. Three decimals wasdeep enough to go into such hot stuff as pepper.”

Okashi bowed eight times and said,“ Sayo de

gozaimasu, which we interpreted grateful ly to implythat next month there would be economy in condi~

ments . When the read ing was over we learned thatthe footing of the nineteen feet was four guineas

,or

a little over fourpence an inch . This was a surprise,

for we had expected nothing less than twenty pounds,

estimating by the length Of time it took to read fromthe beginning to the end . AS we had not fourguineas

,Gardner wired a friend in Tokio and re

ceived Six pounds the next morn ing. We paid OkashiSan the four guineas, and he returned in half anhour with a red seal and a stamp at the end ofhis scrol l , showing that the bill had been dulypaid. We asked him if he was sure everythinghad been settled for

,as his bringing in a bil l after

so many protestations had not pleased us, and wewished to clean our Slate entirely while we wereabout it.

1 The mats on a native floor. They measure 6’

x


Indeed that is all, said our landlord.

“ I t iseverything

,even the rent.”

Upon this we devised how we should d isburse whatwas remaining out of the six pounds. We decided tostudy the famous “ No

” dancing, the most ancientof all Japanese ceremonies

,and our money dis

appeared pleasantly.

The next day as we sat on the tatam i,wondering

if we should ever learn what to do with our legsmost inconvenient appendages in rooms that haveno chairs—the “ karakami

” 1 slid apart and OkashiOkusama appeared, bowing multitudinously. Shehad a roll of thin brown paper in her hand

,like the

one her husband had brought in,and She pushed it

gently towards us as she bowed .

“ We squared all that up yesterday,said Gardner

Sayo de gozaimasu,O chigai masu de gozaimasu,

said Okusama.

Honourably different augustly is,

’ is it ? askedGardner. “ I don’t think so. Let’s see it.” And heunrolled it along the tatami edge.

“ By Jove ! you’ve added two feet, he exclaimed .

And where’s the stamp and the seal ?Shiremasen de gozaimasu

”

(“ Not knowing aug

ustly said Okusama.

After a lengthy discussion we discovered that thetwenty-one feet and six inches bill was a separateaccount

,quite distinct from her husband’s and as just.

Gardner had to wire to Tokio for another six pounds .We got into such a mess trying to straighten out

1 Sliding doors of paper, which are the partition walls betweenrooms.

OUR LANDLORD 25

this second account,which persisted in m ixing itself

up with account number one, that we decided to hirea professional cook and to let him pay cash for everything as we went along. We gave him his moneyday by day

,and so escaped monthly bills. This

real ly l ightened the work of our landlord and landlady greatly

,but they d isapproved the change

,never

theless ; it had been such a joy ordering th ings at thevarious shops about town.

After this affairs went on smoothly for some time,

until one morning Okashi San handed Gardner a sl ipof paper on which appeared the following items :Raw fish

,mushrooms, eggs, saké, M lle. Cherry

Blossom,Peach Bud, Chrysanthemum , Golden P lum ,

and Thousand Joys—a combination that suggestedgaiety. (Not long before the publ ic had voted forThousand Joys in the newspapers, and had electedher Grand M istress of the geisha by a large majority.)As our home and the school had been quiet the nightbefore

,we did not understand Okashi

’

s sl ip . Heexplained

,however. Some dear friends were leaving

Etchiu for a long journey, and he had been saying“ good-bye.” AS he had no money he brought thebill to us . He had had a jolly time and was sorrywe had not been with him ; he would have asked us ,but his friends, being strangers, might have beenunamusing.

Under the c ircumstances, Gardner had noth ing todo but go into his sleeve for the amount of the bill.I n the evening when he had recovered somewhat

,he

made remarks about oriental “ cheek .

”

We had another example of this cheek later,after


we had laid aside our foreign attire in Etchiu ,had

put on the native Japanese dress,and adopted the

native manner of living in everything else as well. A

large part of our discarded clothes we gave to OkashiSan and to his son Koj iki . They took the suits tothe tailor’s and had them cut down to fit. Koj ikiSan took advantage of this Opportunity of givingorders

,and told Shitateya San , the tailor, to make a

neat cutaway coat with a waistcoat to match . Wehardly knew him when he presented himself in hisnew attire and handed us the bill for all the tailoring.

He said he would like some new patent leather boots,

too,to wear with the suit, but to his sorrow Shitateya

San could not make them . We allowed him to waitfor the boots.On another occasion Gardner went to Nugata to

see some naval friends,and while he was there I ran

out of funds and wired him for twelve pounds. Heand a friend each sent six pounds. I t so happenedI was cal led over the mountains before the replycame

,and was gone three days on business con

nected with the Government schools. When Ireturned I heard from afar the wail of a J apanesesong. The voice sounded familiar, and on goinginto the house I found Okashi San on his back insome ashes near an American stove we had set upin one of the schoolrooms. H is legs and arms werein the air

,and he was Singing a Japanese song of

Gardner’s composition : “ Doitashi mashite abunaio

isakij itsu go men na saI, etc . Noisy, but altogethermeaningless. When he saw me he jumped up anddid an old samurai war-dance, explaining the while

OUR LANDLORD 27

that the twelve pounds had come all right, andthat he had taken my seal and got the money fromthe telegraph Office .

He had not eaten anything, he said , for three days ;but sakel—ah ! ah ! and he showed a snow-whitetongue. Then he untwisted his obe 1 and handed meone and Sixpence

,all that remained of the money

Gardner and his friend had wired . He said he hadpaid many b ills and had enjoyed himself, but wenever learned exactly where the money went to

,

though we had susp icions.When Gardner dec ided to resign his professorship

and to leave Japan,there was sorrow in E tchiu .

The great folk of the province Vis ited the house andbrought him testimon ials and gifts. Together thesepresents made a beautiful col lection . About half anhour before Gardner’s j in-rik i-sha was to start

, Okashi

Kintaro came over with a glorious red bowl which hegave W i th many protestations of undying regard .

Then he “ borrowed three pounds.1 Girdle.

CHAPTER IV

THE HONOURABLE BATH

ARDNER made a study of baths while he wasin Japan . What he did not know about them

when he left the country was exactly enough to makehim a native bathing-suit. I t is Odd , too, that heshould have taken to the furo oke ” so enthusiastically when one recalls his first experience in a Tokiobath-tub.

This is what he told some globe-trotters at theYokohama United Club one day. They were askingfor points on “ doing ” Japan .

“ I had just run up to Tokio to see a man in theImperial University,

” he explained.

“ He wasn’t athome, but a young student who was taking care ofhis place greeted me most hospitably. He said‘Oh

,you are just from a long voyage and have a

letter for the professor. I am a thousand timessorry that he is not at home. He has gone to N ikkofor a period of two weeks. But come in , nevertheless.I am a most stupid and contemptible substitute

,but

I Shal l do my idiotic best to explain Japan to you.

’

He made a noble beginning, I assure you. Thefirst lesson was chopsticks . He taught me so well


notice it at first ; not unti l I Observed something else.That was that this young student’s wife and her maidhad come out while I was in my tub and were busywashing rice by the well

,not far away .

‘That’sextraordinary inadvertence

,

’ I said to myself, orwords to that effect ;

‘why didn’t that bally rat tellthem that I was out here in the tub ? I ’d like towring his neck ! They’ll be gone soon , I hope !

’

But I was hot. So was the water,and it grew hotter !

‘They’re not in a hurry with that rice,

’ I remarked .

‘Confound a country where it takes them all day towash rice I ’d forgot about its being heaven

,you

see. Then I said harsh things—inwardly,of course

but it did no good. I t didn’t cool the water, nor me,a bit.’

“ The water behaved badly. It didn’t warm upgradually to the boiling point

,thereby allowing me

to simmer into mock missionary broth . I t het’ itself

up by jerks . I t would simmer gently, then dropabout two degrees

,j ust enough to fool me into the

idea that the fire was going out,and that I should be

comfortable,and then it would buck up six po ints

,

and I ’d have a touch of Hades.And still they washed that rice. I f I could have

yelled I’d have felt better,but I was afraid. I thought

they would turn round and see me. Then I tried tosneak to the house

,but just as I ’d be half-way out,

one of them would look round,or look as if she were

going to look round,and down I’d duck . Every time

I dropped I fel t my hide peel o ff, just as in the storiesthey used to tel l of fellows being sk inned alive in theWestern Plains by Injuns .

THE HONOURABLE BATH 3 I

Al l the water was too hot, but at the surface itfelt l ike a red-hot ring bound to my body. I tried tostir it up to equalise the heat, but motion was painful .I felt as if I couldn’t move. I hadn

’t enough resolution. You see, I was nearly done. So I braced myfeet against the l ittle partition that serves as a fenderto the iron pipe

,and tried to endure it. The water

grew hotter,and I braced harder

,unti l there was a

crack and a splash . The fender gave way, and myfoot went plumb against the sizzl ing pipe.

“ I t was just then that I forgot all about the clothesthat I d idn’t have on . I also forgot about the ricewashers

,and that they could see me. I forgot every

thing,in fact, except that I was boiled almost to

death . AS I jumped,I slipped backward on the

edge of the tub,rolled round on the back of my neck

for a second or two,though it seemed l ike as many

hours,got my feet on the ground at last

,and then

rushed into the house just in time to meet twoAmerican m issionary ladies

,who had called not

knowing that the professor was out of town .

“ They didn’

t seem to be shocked . I had senseenough left to notice that. Afterwards I heard thatone of them had remarked how red I was . Wel l

,I

was embarrassed .

”

After a boy had seen to certain orders,Gardner

continued : “ Now, if you fellows want to get at thereal Japan—Japan au naturel—be sure and take plentyof baths While here. The bath is the best point ofview that you can find to study human nature from.

Don’t l isten to what anyone tells you in the treatyports ; not, at least, till you have made a tour of the


country and have taken at least one thousand baths .Then let the folk you meet in Kobe, Yokohama, andNagasaki tell you all they know

,and you wil l under

stand them .

“ Some Of the foreign residents can give you manypoints

,but others will supply misinformation. Wait

till you’ve had your baths before you judge. Japanas seen from the bath-tub is the real Japan. I f youdon’t know enough to write a book when you comeback it will be because you were struck blind early inthe visit. You’l l have chances for your camera, too,and you must work at your sketch-book perpetually.

Take notes,and come back ripe for fame.

I t is remarkable that no one has yet written upJapan from the bath-tub side. Even Lafcadio Hearn,who is more sympathetic than anyone else

,so far,

among the men who write about the country,pays

small attention to the tub. Basil Hall Chamberlain,however

,who is a mine of learning

,has something to

say on the subject. He tells of the bathers at Kawara

yu, near Ikao, who stay in the tub a month at a time,with stones in their laps to keep their bodies fromfloating when they are asleep . He says the tub isone of two things the Japanese haven’t borrowed fromother countries . The other is their poetry. It hardlywould be worth your while to go in for the poetry toany extent. I t would take you five years to learn toread it

,and twice as long to learn to compose it your

self. But with hot baths it is different. You canlearn to take them in a few weeks if you will profitby my experience

,do not begin too hard or be too

shy. As I said before,your native friends are likely

THE HONOURABLE BATH 33

to be in water at 1 15 degrees to 1 20 degrees , thatwould take the hide right Off a beginner. I got sotough after a few months’ practice that I could sit stil lin water at 1 25 degrees. I couldn

’t move round,of

course,and I had to be very S low getting in and out

,

but I could stand the heat even on my face.I f I were you I ’d get a student from the university

to act as guide. He would be trustworthy, and wouldbe good company too. Don’t have anything to dowith the professional guides at the treaty ports.They’l l take all sorts of advantage of you . When

you’

Ve found a student that speaks English wel l—andmost of them do, though in an amusingly formal waystart o ff for the west coast. Travel the unfrequentedroutes as much as poss ible, by that I mean routes thatforeigners do not take. You can find hundreds ofcharming places that few foreigners have seen. Andin many of these places there are hot springs andm ineral baths . You must see some of the morefrequented baths, of course, such as Atam i, Hakone,Oj igoku, and Kusatsu , even if they are on beatenpaths.

“ If any of you fellows have rheumatism or gout goto Kusatsu, 4000 feet up and about thirty miles fromIkao. Kusatsu will cure everything but love-sickness

.

That is the burden of the song the maids who rub

your back and take charge of your kimono S ingto you wh ile you bathe. A lways watch the peopleabout you . You’ll see everyone in the neighbourhoodevery day—Vi llagers and the visitors al ike

,men and

women , young and old, large and small, every morning and evening. Al l come into the village square

,

3


d isrobe, and let themselves down gently into the hugetank of running water.

“ Then the news of the day and the gossip of theneighbourhood are discussed from every V iew po int.L isten hard, and have your guide mix up in thetalk as much as possible. Get him to repeat toyou all that he remembers after the bath is over.Don’t talk to him in the bath

,or the neighbours

will crowd round to hear the queer sounds you make.They will stop talking of their own doings

,which

are what you wish to become familiar with,and will

talk about your skin and hair and eyes,how large

you are,and all that sort of thing. When you go

back to your hotel you can have a lesson in Japanesefrom your guide

,and incidentally teach him a little

English,which is what he’s real ly after.

“ One reason why these baths are good for studying native life is, that they are the only placeswhere the sexes come together for general conversation . The Government says that the presence ofwomen keeps the men from talking politics too much

,

and though missionaries say that the custom is shocking

,the Government does not interfere. ‘We have

been bathing this way for two thousand years withoutscandal

,why should we change ? ’ the natives say ;

there is no evil in the custom to those whose mindsare free from evil.’ So they ignore the pleadings ofthe ‘sky pilots

,

’ and the children of Japan continuebathing in just the sort of suits they wore when they

were born.

CH APTER V

THE AUGUST DEPARTURE

PEAKING of feasts and funerals, said Gardnerto the men who had listened to his words on

bath,and were s itting with him at One Hundred

Steps the following day,

“ I saw an Old man roastingwhile his family sat round eating and drink ing and !

mak ing merry. I t was over on the west coast, wherecremation is much in vogue.

“ It was a strange sight to me, for I had not beenin the country long and did not know anythingabout the native funeral customs . The old manwho was burning had been our neighbour. He wasOkashi

’

s father. That is how I happened to be atthe funeral .

“ He was eighty -eight years Old . This i s thelucky age in Japan , because of the way the numberis written . Then Gardner made marks on the topo f his tray with his chopsticks d ipped in shoyu—twolittle dabs pointing up at each other for eight ; then ,below, a cross for ten ; and below this two more l ittledabs . The column then read eight

,ten

,eight. Now

if the four dabs were brought close to the cross inthe middle, the eighty-eig5

ht would change into the


character rice. The dabs representing hulled kernels,and the cross

,a bit of the sieve, the symbol for

plenty,so the man or woman reaching the age o f

eighty-eight is held in particular esteem,and my

friend’s funeral was more elaborate than the usualaffair because of his lucky age.

“ Crowds came to the house,for everybody that

knew anybody knew Takaiyanagi Inkiyo . Theycame in and bowed before the household shrine

,

where his name and the age of such good omenwere inscribed . As they bowed they pressed theirhands together as Christians do in prayer. Theyreverenced his spirit

,and by their obeisance they

implied that they held his memory in as high esteemas they had held him when he was a l iving man .

But they did not worship , as some folk would wishto have you believe. Then they laid their offeringson the floor below the l ittle image in its gilded case.Everyone brought something. The well-to-do gavemoney

,others cakes or wine, and others bamboo

vases ful l of flowers. Some of these were red andsome were white.

Meanwhile the good wife of the house was busyin the kitchen preparing food for the guests. Inneighbouring k itchens, too, the women helped withthis . In my house cooking began early in the morning

,and the maids kept at it al l day long. When

the cooking was over there was more food than everI saw before : raw fish, sugared fish, cuttle-fish, seaweed soups

,and cold boiled rice rolled up in seaweed

,

with a dab of horse-radish in the centre.“ The feasting lasted till noon next day, when it


At the temple the bearers put the jar on analtar

,and a dozen priests chanted a service. While

the chanting went on,each guest stepped forward

in turn,and

,after bowing to the priests

,knelt before

the bier,and salaaming quite to the floor

,took a

pinch of powdered incense from a bowl and droppedit into a charcoal brazier

,in which a tiny fire burned.

Then with another prolonged salaam the mourningguest returned to his seat. This was a sort of goodbye ’ to the body and a salutation to the spirit ofthe ancient gentleman .

“ When my turn came I was so awkward as toput my fingers into the braz ier

,thereby burning them

,

and then,in confusion

,I put too much incense on

the fire,which made such a smoke that the priests

and I had a coughing fit.Afterwards I explained that we always did that

way at home. We burned our fingers a l ittle topurify them

,and the last man always dumped on

all the incense that was left so that the corpsewouldn’t think we were ungenerous . Since then Ihave been regarded in E tchiu as one learned inholy things.

“ After this ceremony and the sneez ing was overwe took the dead man to a crematory

,the only

kind Of building in E tchiu that has a chimney.

Fire was already burning under the oven , and the

younger priests were setting a banquet more elaborate,if possible

,than had been served at the house. At

one side stood several tall vases of pure white porcelain ful l of saké, and, near these, stacks of shallowdrinking-cups of red lacquer.

THE AUGUST DEPARTURE 39

We seated ourselves on small cushions laid abouton the soft matted floor. I sat l ike the others, kneeling on my heels. Okashi San protested much .

‘You are a foreigner,

’ said he,

‘and are doing mesuch an overwhelming honour by coming here to-daythat I cannot reconcile myself to the idea of yourplacing your august body in a position so uncom

fortable We Japanese are used to it. Augustlycondescend to act in accordance with the requestwhich I have had the gross effrontery to make !’

I pers isted,however

,in sitting native fashion , and

had cramps in each leg afterwards,much to the

amusement Of the other guests .“ Just then the priests took the body from the

jar,and

,having wrapped it careful ly in white

,they

put it on an iron grating and sl id it far back intothe furnace

,though where all could get a good V iew

of it. The flames curled round it fiercely at firstand then almost tenderly, as though caressing it.Now and then they would lash furiously and tiethemselves in fantastic knots about the limbs

,which

bent and unbent and quivered as though l ife werenot yet extinct and they could feel the terribleheat.

“ So While the venerable departed writhed androasted in the flames

,we banqueted . I t was grue

some,I confess

,especially when one Of the o ld man’s

family would go to the oven and turn him over withan iron rod to ‘do ’ him better on the other side

,or

would straighten him out so that the fire could getat him better. I had always been in favour ofcremation, but I

’l l be hanged if I l iked sitting there


watching a man kink up and sputter while hisrelatives turned h im as a chef turns th ings on agrill .

“ I had recourse to saké to steady my nerves.Saké is about the strength of sherry

,so that if you

drink enough of it,especially hot saké

,you will

produce an effect. I produced one in the crematory.

Every time any of the guests Offered me a cup,I

took it,and poured the contents into me. I t is

the custom to exchange cups, you know., You

rinse your cup in a bowl of water provided for thatpurpose and o ff er it ‘to each guest in turn. You

must do this once at least to everyone present,and

you always receive a cup in return . There weretwenty - nine of us at the funeral

,and I had two

drinks with each of them !“ I told my host that

,when my time came

,he

must see that I was properly cremated. He repliedthat it would be too great an honour for him .

‘Youhad much better come to cook me

,

’ he said. Finally,

we decided that which ever ‘augustly departed ’ first,

the other should burn him,and that the town should

have saké enough to swim in . We agreed, however,not to die before we were eighty-eight.

“ ‘Just see how beautifully my father burns,

’

Okashi San said.

‘That is because of his luckyage.’ ‘Wait til l you see me s izzle

,

’ I replied,

‘youwill be amazed . I intend to go o ff l ike a keg ofpowder.’

“ Had either Of us caught fire that afternoon hewould have burned with a blue flame.

CHAPTER V I

THE GUEST WHO COULD NOT GO

APANESE callers come early and stay lateparticularly if you

,the callee

,are a foreigner.

They like to look at you . They are easyenough to entertain

,too

,if you do not mind being

stared at. But they never go. At least no onebut Dara Santaro ever went, and he did so onlyonce. He could not do so again, for he did not comeback. This achievement of his (which was partlyours) emphasises the rule . Here is the story.

Dara Santaro was in the habit Of calling on us onNichiyobi regularly. N ichiyobi is the seventh dayof the Japanese week

,and corresponds to our Sunday,

though it has nothing to do with rel igion. I t israther jollier and happ ier than other days

,that is

all . Gardner and I had enjoyed it in peace andrestfulness until Dara discovered us .N ichiyobi was our home day. We were satisfiedto be by ourselves . I t was always a comfort inanticipation and a delight when it arrived. ButDara changed all that. He was the nephew ofour next - door neighbour

,a retired naval captain

,

who, though a cripple, was courteous and kindly in41


the extreme. Moreover,he spoke a little English

,

which made him the more agreeable,whereas Dara

did not know more than three words.When Dara made his first call we were still snooz

ing on our futon,

” 1 and he had bowed twelve timesbefore we had got the k inks out of our neckssufficiently to bow back to him . Japanese pillowsare excel lent, once one is used to them ; but theyare hard on the neck the first few years. U sotsuk i,

a young student who interpreted for us,said Dara

was extremely sorry to disturb us. Dara’s sorrowwas manifested by a smile that divided his countenance into hemispheres. Our own sorrow was asintense

,but different.

We told Kintaro to make Dara comfortable andto excuse us for a moment. Then we rolled out ofour nemak i

” 2 and into our boiling bath. When wecame out we were red

,and breakfast was ready.

Dara sat with us on his shinbones and heels,with

his feet crossed under him,and nearly added another

inch to his smile in an effort to eat an Ol ive withhis knife. We did not care much for olives forbreakfast

,but U sotsuki had put them on the table

and Dara San seemed to like them .

Generally,too

, we discarded knives and forksand ate with hashi l ike the natives

,but this mom

ing we brought out the English implements, thinkingthey might interest our guest. They did . He ateeverything

,even butter

,which is not usual among

the Japanese. Indeed , he speared the balls floatingin the bowl of iced water and swallowed them with

1 Heavy quilts. 2 Kimono for sleeping.


like a brazen image,which is the proper Japanese

pose ; but when he saw the negative in our dark rooma l ittle later he was tickled . We prom ised to sendhim proofs in a few days

,and he bowed and smiled,

and stayed .

U sotsuk i announced tifl’

in—always an elaboratemeal with us on Nichiyobi. Dara San stayed, andwas as active as at breakfast. His compliments wereloud and long. As we were fond of his uncle wesaid nothing

,but we were eager for “ our Sunday.

”

We wanted to lounge and stroll about the gardens ofthe old temple in which we l ived

,and over into the

older temple which we were using as a school-house.We wanted to chat together of things at home, tofinish our letters and be at rest. But there were noneof these things for us this day

,nor the following

Nichiyobi either, for he remembered the promisewhich we had quite forgotten .

That second day of visitation was not a keendelight. Then came a third and a fourth. Whatshould we do ? We could not be rude. Not for ayear’s rent would we have disturbed that kindlygentleman the captain . We did not wish to flee.We wanted to have our home to ourselves this oneday in the week . We must resort to strategy. And

,

in fact,to use a slang expression

,we must put up a

job on Dara Santaro. Though outwardly polite andfriendly

,we had concocted and concealed in our

hearts a wicked scheme. I t was done in this wiseAs everyone knows

,saké is the national drink of

Japan . It is a pale sherry-coloured liquor or beer,made of rice . It is joyous and harmless , though

THE GUEST WHO COULD NOT G0 45

exhilarating to the Japanese. Foreign liquors , likeforeign tobacco

,are too strong for them . Dara knew

nothing of this,however.

After tiffin No . 4 , we tried some foreign cigaretteson him ,

which he smoked until he was a little dizzy.

Tabaka yota (Tobacco drunk)the natives cal l thesensation . Then we gave him some of our sakéhighly sweetened . He had a curiosity to taste theforeign product

,and

,l ike all Japanese

,he l iked plenty

of sweetness .We loaded his tumbler with syrups

,but also with

l iquors,and

,I fear

,nearly three fingers of fire water

,

for it was a tal l English glass, holding almost a pint.Our glasses held a mixture of the same in colour

,but

innocent of dynamite.Our deception was base but succes sful . Dara

smacked his l ips and sm iled half-way round his headover the first swallow. His face reddened as hecontinued to imbibe

,but he persisted with the courage

of a sentenced feudal lord in the days of hara-kiri .”

By the time he had drunk all, his head stuck upthrough the top of his kimono l ike a poppy and hissmile was saggy at the ends .He articulated,

“ Taihen uroshi, gochiso sama, gomen

na sai,syonara,

” 1 and then sailed sweetly,with many

curves,out through our garden

,his kimono following

like a comet’s tail,and his geta playing leap-frog and

fi ll ing the air with their wooden clamour.Though we have felt guilty ourselves

,we have

never blamed Dara Santaro that he did not return .

1 V ery good ! Great feast, sir August pardon deign l l! Goodbye

CHAPTER V II

THE OBEDIENT BED

ARDNER and I took a vacation Of some threeweeks

,and leaving Okashi and the west coast

made a hurried trip to Tokio . When we reachedthere the city seemed fearfully European—such wasthe effect of a few months’ experiences across theEmpire. Tokio was now as strange for its foreignfeatures as it had been formerly for its native characteristics . We were being Japanned .

We ran into some friends who were staying at theImperial Hotel

,and they led Gardner into a discourse

on glimpses of native life. He began with the bed,which is the starting-point Of Japanese

,as well as

foreign,l ife

,and the finishing point too.

In Japan,

” he said,

“ you don’t go to bed the bedcomes to you . I t is much easier that way

,and in

Japan the easiest way is the only way. That is whythe country is so popular with globe-trotters . Nordoes it make much difference what part of your houseyou may be in , or of a friend

’s house, for that matter,or a tea-house or an hotel if you are drowsy the bedwill come in patty-pat, and will spread out before youat a moment’s notice.

THE OBEDIENT BED 47

If you are visiting,your host wi ll detect your

inclination and beg you to honour h is house by takinga nap therein . Clapping his hands, he calls out :‘Futon motte koi ’ (

‘Quilts bring l

’

) In a momenthis wife is prostrate j ust outs ide the room , hearken ingto the august command. In two minutes She will betoddling in with a bundle in her arms much largerthan herself—a huge, thickly wadded quilt, the

‘futon,

’

which she rolls out over the ‘tatami,

’ the strawmattresses covered with finely woven bamboos thatare upon all floors in Japanese rooms (excepting onlythe ‘daidoku ,

’ or kitchen). That is the bed , and ifyou will condescend augustly to arrange your honourable body On anything so unworthy, Okamisan (thesweet little wife)will be bewildered with the honour.

“ She tells you so in a sweet voice as she kneelspresses her face down against the backs of herhands on the tatami before you. You protestthe honour is with you ; that it is indescribably

rude of you to venture to think of polluting so magnifi

cent a futon . Then, with a low bow, you stretch

yourself out upon it. Okamisan covers you withanother futon, and doubl ing up again, l isps : Oyasumi

nasai ’ Condescend to enjoy honourable tranqu ill ityM ine host says the weather impresses him as beingch as to encourage nap-taking also

,and soon he

on another fut on lying peacefully beside you,to

cal led when the bath is ready,for if it is afternoon

al l Japan takes a nap and afterwards a dip in thefuro,

’ or wooden bath-tub,and has a rub down by a

maid .

“ Supposing you to be a foreigner who has just


arrived,and therefore a griffi n,

’ in Yokohama slang,

your first night in Japan is l ikely to be a new experi

ence,especially if you are unfamiliar with the Far

East. You may very wel l begin right here in Tokio,

the capital of the Empire .

“ You leave your shoes outside the door on entering

,for the del icate texture of the bamboo matting

,

which is the upper surface of the tatami,would be

torn by boot heels. If your feet are chilled,you

may wear heel less S l ippers,but the native way is

the best ; that is, to go barefoot—a good preventiveagainst colds and rheumatism . If you like

,you

may wear ‘tabi .’ Tabi are the native socks. Theycome just to the ankle

,around which they fasten

with hooks, and are l ike mittens in shape, havingseparate pockets for the great toes

,just as mittens

have for the thumbs . Tabi are convenient, becausewhen wearing them your feet fit into the “ zori”

(sandals)and geta”

(wooden clogs),wh ich the Japanese wear out of doors instead of shoes

,and you may

amble round as you please without the bother ofbending over to lace or to button or to pull on apair of boots . The slit in the tabi between thepocket for the great toe and the pocket for the othertoes is to admit the thong by which the geta andzori are held to the foot.

“ When your shoes are on one of the shelves inthe stand

,where you would look for a hat-rack in

England,a maid will take you directly to your

room along with your luggage, for there is no Officein which to stop to register. There you will findlittle in the way of ornament, and no furniture at


or, ifyou are tender,‘sam mai .’ (

‘N i’ means ‘two

,

’and‘san ’ or ‘sam ’ means ‘three.’ ‘Mai ’ is an auxiliarynumeral used when counting flat things .) You clapyour hands instead of pressing the button of anelectric bell, and from far back in the interior of thehouse comes a drawn out ‘Hai-i-i-i

,tadaima.

’ ‘Hai ’

is only a S ignal cry,meaning that the maid hears

you . I t does not mean yes .’ Tadaima,

’ the dictionaries say, means

‘now,just now

,

’ ‘at present,

’ or‘presently.

’ In some tea-houses you will find it isthe equivalent of the Spanish word manana .

’ Tokiomaids are quick , however, and in a moment thekarak imi sl ide to one side

,and a l ittle body is

kneeling just beyond awaiting orders .“ You say you are S leepy and would like a nap

,

and you ask for an extra futon. Hai,kashikomari

mashita,

’ replies the bright-eyed maiden as She bendslow. Then with a ‘go men nasai ’ she pushes thekarakimi wide open, and calls out,

‘Ne san,chotto

oide. Sensei ne masu desu yo (‘Elder sister

,come

here a moment. The Learned One would sleepElder sister

,who

,by the way, is as l ikely to be

the younger of the two,comes along the verandah

from the kitchen,her bare feet sounding patty-pat

on the polished wood . She goes to the wall andsl ides open the door of the ‘fukuro dana,

’ or cupboard

,which you thought was the entrance to another

room . There are the futon folded up on a horizontal Shelf, which divides the cupboard so that i t looksl ike the two berths of a stateroom on board ship.

N i mai desu ne, dana san she says . You wanttwo pieces, don

’t you,

And then with the

THE OBEDIENT BED 51

‘ sweetest l ittle smile,and with her head a bit to one

side l ike a bird , she asks Makura fu futatsu,desuka

Makura is pil low,and she asks if you wish two.

“ The futon are spread out one upon the other,and a sheet perhaps is laid on top. Sheets, however,are new to Japan . Then comes the big ‘yagu ,

’ ortop futon

,which is longer than the others, and has

sleeves like a huge kimono . This is bunched up atthe foot of the bed

,ready to be pul led over you when

you have laid down .

“ The small Object at the head Of your bed , whichlooks l ike a cigar-box on edge surmounted by arol l of paper

,is the ‘makura.

’

No one need envyyour first night’s experience with it. You will discover that your head is as heavy as though it weresolid lead

,and

,therefore—which is al l the comfort

you’ll have out of the sensation—that it cannotpossibly be empty. You will l ikely

'

dream of beingbeheaded or unheaded

,and of falling over the brinks

of precipice after precipice .

In the morning your head will be stationary,for

the hinges of your neck will be too rusty to turneven a l ittle bit. I t will take time to master themakura, but you will l ike it when you are used toit. I f you will examine closely you will see that itis not a cigar-box

,but a truncated pyramid

,four

or five inches high , hollow,with a rectangular base

and a groove on top, in which lies a slender cushionstuffed with bran . Upon this cushion ne san binds afew layers of paper

,which are changed every morning

.

“ There is a drawer at one end Of the makura,

in which you will find tobacco, extremely fine cut


and of attenuated flavour. You may take ‘ippuku’

(one pu ff), as the Japanese say, with small dangerof nervous prostration . There may be one or twokiseru

,

’ or pipes,in the drawer. If not, surely there

are several on the tray beside the tabako ban ,’ the

square l ittle rosewood box with the earthenware‘hibachi

,

’ or brazier, in it, and the‘haifuki,

’ as thebamboo tube is called

,which is a combination of

ash-receiver and cuspidor. Bits of burning charcoalare in the hibachi for l ighting ‘ your pipe. Thehaifuki is for ashes, burnt matches, and the otheruses of a cuspidor.

“ If it is not too late in the season, you will need a‘kaya

,

’ or mosquito net. Ne san will have it unfoldedand hung up by cords at its four corners in almostno time. I t is always green, and usually has redbindings. When you are inside you will be wel lshut off from the evening breezes as well as fromthe mosquitoes

,and will not feel the need of the

‘yagu ’ or upper futon .

You have watched these proceedings with amusement

,and now that everything seems ready you

wonder why the ‘elder sisters ’ do not patter backto the kitchen . But all is not ready. They musttake away the ‘

rosoku,’ or paper-wicked candles

,or

the rampu —as the Japanese pronounce lamp—andput the night lantern , the andon ,

’ in its place. Thisis a large square white paper affair, standing on aframe a couple of feet above the tatami

,

’ and lightedby a taper that juts out over the edge of a smallsaucer of oil Of sesame within .

“ While you are waiting and wondering,they are

THE OBEDIENT BED 53

doing the same thing. They wi l l bring the nightlamp as soon as you are safely under the kaya.

“ ‘Why doesn’t honourable master undress ? ’ theyare thinking

,and you,

‘Why the deuce don’t thosemaids go ? ’ A Japanese friend explains to you ,perhaps

,and you get him between you and them ,

and,partially disrobing, sl ip under the kaya. Then

he explains your trepidation to the me san, andal l three have a great laugh at your shyness.Should you wish to go out to look at the moon

or to study the weather probabilit ies for the morrow,

or the ‘asago ,

’ which is Japanese for morning glory,

before retiring,ne san accompanies you and stands

patiently by,humming an Old love tune . She has

a dipper at the ‘chosubachi,’ and ’ will pour water for

you to wash your hands , and will offer you a brandnew ‘tenu i ’ after your ablutions, on which to dryyourself. Ne san is not an imaginative person .

She guides you as a matter of course, and takes goodcare of you. She sees you safely in bed , and doubling up into a l ittle bunch , she says most humbly‘Oyasumi nasai .

’ Then sh-Sh-sh-click,the karakimi

are pushed together, and you are in bed in Japan .

You’ll rather l ike it after a month’s experience .

“ You will not find bedrooms in Japanese houses .But wherever you go you will find futon areplentiful , and wherever there is space for one, thereyou may have a bed . The servants—men

,women

,

boys, and girls—sleep on the kitchen floor,or

,more

Often, on the floor of the room opening into thekitchen , in a long row, depending on the size of theroom and the number of servants.


In a first-class tea-house or hotel , if you lookin early of a morning, you wil l find several rows offuton reaching quite across the main room

,each

with a head hanging out comfortably over the topof one of those hollow wooden pil lows . To theJapanese they are rather neck -rests than headrests, but to the foreign mind the word rest is notapplicable to makura . Except in the case of youngchildren

,no two people are on the same futon .

“ Using futon and the floor instead of bedsteads isa great saving of house space

,and is convenient in

many other ways. The futon are easily aired,and

may be carried about readily when moving. I ncase of fire they are quickly packed up and putout of danger. They are cheap

,too

,except those

used by the rich , which are fi l led with pure silkwadding and covered with heavy

,heavy silk . Even

then they cost less than hair mattresses in England .

“ As much of the exterior as well as of the interior walls of Japanese houses are sl iding doors ,which grow loose and wobbly with the changing o f

the seasons,from wet to dry and then to wet again ;

and with the shaking of the five hundred earthquakesthat occur each year

,there is no lack of chinks and

crevices which,however admirable for venti lation,

are rather too cool ing in winter. I t behoves youto have heat if you would be comfortable. TheJapanese have neither open fireplaces nor stoves .They make no attempt to heat their houses, butthey try to keep their toes and fingers warm bymeans of a kotatsu -that is a square hibachi, sunkin the floor and having a wooden frame above i t.

CHAPTER VI I I

ONE WHO WON

HILE in Tokio this trip, we were onlookersat a poker game once

,as guests ‘of a man

of rank . Though we did not take a hand,we had

a worthy night of it. The game was of a magnitude we had never seen before—and in such simpleyet exquisite surroundings : a glorious place forthe purpose, or for any other purpose ! Our friendswere of some distinction

,too

,and most interesting

in their native manner.“ H itotsu, futatsu ,

mitsu , yotsu, itsutsu—aka bakari

(One , two , three, four, five—red only), said PrinceSakusama

,at the end of the first j ack-pot

,as he

counted a straight flush,beginning with the ace o f

hearts,and laid it on the low ebony table in one

of the famous tea-houses on Sumida Gawa.

I win ? ” he asked , as he paused a moment andlooked round at his companions . Then, with a gentleinclination to those round the table,

“ Aragato de

gozaimasu”

(“ The chips and Peach Blossom

,too.

Shall I put her in the“ If your Highness did 50

,said a young Baron

who had just returned with an Embassy from66

ONE WHO WON 57

London,

“ all of us would play to lose, for as yourHighness has deigned to declare the rules of thegame

,give the k itty to the player who is hit the

hardest. To play poker to lose would be todebauch its pristine purity.

”

We must never do that, Baron , surely. Let usplay a round of j acks.”

He clapped his hands, and from the far interiorof the tea-house, beyond many partitions of papersl iding -doors

,an answering,

“ Hai tadaima,

” longdrawn

,soft and musical, floated in , tell ing the prince

that his summons had been heard . A moment laterand the paper doors at the end of the room sl idnoiselessly in their grooves and disclosed a bundleOf daintiness on the tatami just outside.I t was Peach Blossom

,kneeling low

,with her face

almost touching the soft bamboo matting , and her tinyhands pressed palm down together just before her.She besought H is Highness to deign to pardon her

audacious eff rontery in responding to the augustsummons, and begged that if he would condescendto command so unworthy a p iece of stupid mud asshe

,he would deign to consider her ready to re

ceive the augustly honourable orders .“ Saké, said the Prince, and

‘as Momo-no-Hanaclosed the sliding door and pattered away for thehot rice-beer, His Highness tore the cover from afresh pack of cards and began to Shuffle them . TheBaron cut and the game proceeded .

Five better poker faces were never gathered abouta table. There was not a S ign of nerves in any oneof them . Each p layer sk inned his hand and de


cided whether to draw or pass or to stand pat,but

never a s ign of his thoughts was given in hiscountenance. Each had the expression of a doorknob. Good hands and bad hands come to a doorknob

,but one can tel l nothing of them by looking

at it.These five men in the tea-house on the bank o f

the Sumida Gawa, which flows through the heartof Tokio, bore some of the best-known names inthe Japanese Empire. Three of them had been“ Daimiyo

” and had owned provinces as absolutelyas anything may be owned in this world . Theirrevenues had been counted by the “ koku .

” 1

They had l ived in royal state,each with h is castles

and his army and board of counci llors.But Commodore Perry had changed al l that

,and

now these men were living in the capital with onetenth of their former incomes

,but with no one

to support or worry about, outside their personalhouseholds.Of the other two, h is Highness, Prince Sakusama

,

was of the Shogun’s family,which had ruled the

empire unti l the '

restoration in 1868, and the otherwas ofthe samurai class. His fathers had been fightingmen for ful l two thousand years

,as his family records

showed. He had studied abroad,was a graduate

of Harvard, an M.A . Of Oxford,and a PhD . of

Heidelberg. I t was said that he had carved hisname on the face of a German student who hadbeen so unlucky as to challenge him . He was avice-m inister now, and had married the daughter of

1 A koku is about five bushels (of rice).

ONE WHO WON 59

a merchant with much money. (Before 187 1 hewould have been sentenced to “ hara-kiri ” for me’s

allz'

cmce.) A l l five had learned to play abroad. Theyhad been together in a Japanese club in London ,the presiding genius of which was their ConsulGeneral

,who knew the great American game as

wel l as did ever a Kentucky colonel.Now that they were at home again , they were

only too wi ll ing to meet wherever a chance afforded ,and the tea-house of the R is ing Moon knew themwell . Its mistress was glad to see them

,for the

players and their friends were a hungry and thirstylot

,and did not spare the k itty, out of which the

chief loser had to pay all expenses.The round of jacks was under way when Momo

no-Hana came in with the saké. When saké isordered in a tea-house, food is served with it, forthe host knows wel l the evil effects of drinking onan empty stomach , and besides there is profit incomestibles SO Omomo San was followed by aprocession of similar blossoms , each with a daintymorsel on china dishes and lacquered trays . A l lthese bearers of nectar and ambrosia were geisha

,

and indentured to masters of various geisha houses.Rumour had it that for certain sums of money

,

doubtless much exaggerated , the indenture papersOf the more bewitching of these geisha had changedhands

,so that the sweet singers were come under

the guardianship Of men of noble birth,who in the

olden days could have cut in two the master of ageisha house and would have been accountable tono one. Food and drink disappeared rapidly

, and


then the game went on , while music and singingkept accompaniment. Finally came the last jackpot o f the last round . I t bore out the rumour asto the transference of indenture papers,1 for when thelast call was made and his Highness had reckonedup the contents , he found Cherry Bud , Chrysanthemum,

and Plum Blossom were added to hisl ist

,besides Little Posy and One Thousand \ Joys .

He had won the whole procession. Each playerlaughed as though he might have been himself theprincipal winner, exchanged saké cups with all theothers

,and planned to meet again .

Looking out over the slow Sumida,and watching

the house - boats with their gay paper lanterns asthe sendo poled them along the shores in the lightof the rising moon, Sakusama dipped his saké cupin the basin

,and handing it to him who had lost

j ust too little to be entitled to the kitty,said

Kono tsugi goshiawase l Dozo ippai onomu nasai.Which means

,being literally interpreted

,

“ Nexttime your honourable luck good probably will be.

Graciously condescend a cupful of saké to imbibe.”

1 Buying indenture papers was not equivalent to buying the geisha.

To buy her was to buy her release from her master. That was al l.

She was not bound , legally, to serve the buyer. From her point of

view it might be the honourable thing to do , however.

CHAPTER IX

THINKING IN JAPANESE

HAT wonders a l ittle word wil l work 1 I t wasthe mel lifluous “

tadaima,

” for instance,our

old friend of the inns and the tea-houses , that setGardner and me at the language . I t had followedus on our trip to Tokio

,and at the time that it “ set

us it had been floating in from Okashi’

s yashiki forquite two hours .Something had happened to the “ fire-box that

our cook had contrived for the viands we needed onour feast days

,so we were waiting for our dinner.

We were hungry, we were in a hurry, and the hourwas late

,yet no matter how much we clapped our

hands all we el icited was ‘ “tadaima

”—tadaima

instead of sustenance ! Every four minutes of thetwo hours either Gardner or I had cal led until thefingers of our right hands had raised welts on ourleft hands’ palms

,and further popping ” was painful .

We were “ na sae t ick lit,

” as a Drumtochty manmight have said

,over the monotony of the responses

to our summons,but it was Sunday and we did not

speak out what we thought. I had found out something about tadaima

”thelfirst night I was in Tokio

,


and I had described my impressions to Gardner.We both knew that in the dictionaries it was oppositethe word “ immediately.

” Whoever juxtaposed itthere may have fancied for the moment that he wasat work on a list of antonyms . One could not wellimagine a word more opposite to “ immediately thantadaima.

” I ts location in the dictionary was a goodone from the antonymic point of view.

“ I ’l l tel l you what we’l l have to do,Partner

,said

my good friend , as he clapped his hands for the

fifteenth time, rather mildly, and listened to thethirtieth tadaima.

“ Is it far ? ” I asked. I thought he was about tosuggest a tea-house.

NO, I don’t mean to go anywhere

,he replied .

“ Iwas about to observe that we must study the language.This eternal tadaima disturbs the equanimity I wouldmaintain . My soul protests . So does my appetitedepartment. If we had learned Japanese we shouldnot be sitting here l ike a couple of blind claqueurs

,

we should have proceeded to the kitchen at the firstindication Of delay and have remonstrated so accurately, so precisely, and so emphatical ly, that by thistime we Should have been within sound of the surf atSakaiko .

”Sakaiko is a grand place for surf some

days , and Gardner and I went there often , but to-daywe should be late.Yes

,Gardner was right. If we had taken up the

language we should have been more comfortableinternally. Tadaima would

{be a lesson to us“ True

,

” I replied . We must learn the lingo andstraightway we began. There was no “

tadaima


j apanese, Tkings j apanese, and Handbook of j apan

(in which Mr. Mason collaborated)were a joy—andare so even to this day. May his shadow nevergrow less !We found out a lot of things about Japanese that

very afternoon , things that everyone else knew probably

,but which we had not happened to think

about— to wit, Japanese is not even second cousinto Chinese, though in the matter of loans Chinesehas been a good uncle. Japanese is an only child,and its parentage, though certainly respectable, isdoubtful . I t has a cousin in the Luchu Islands

,and

remote kindred possibly in Corea,where there is

some anatomical resemblance. Gardner’s sympatheticheart was touched by this apparent isolation

,and he

declared he would look into the matter to see if hecould not find relatives among the Manchus or theMongols .We had thought to learn to write Japanese, but,after a cursory

'

survey of the ground we must needsgo over, we decided to devote ourselves at first tospeaking. The written language would take timeten years

,perhaps

,if we kept steadily at it twenty

four hours a day as I reckoned it,though Gardner

was inclined to say twenty-six,and we felt it would

be hardly wise to write much at first. We could nothave begun at the beginning anyway—not the kindo f beginning that other languages begin at

,for there

is no alphabet in Japanese. We Should have had tolearn sets of syllables instead of letters . There aretwo of these

,and six ways of writing the one more

generally in use . Then there would be four thousand

THINKING IN JAPANESE 65

ideographs to commit to memory (a‘

number said tobe sufli cient for reading the daily paper comfortably),which the Japanese write in two di fferent styles ,cursive and standard, as the spirit moves them ,

andin various other ways if they happen to be men oflearning. These ideographs, Professor Chamberlainassured us

,had three or four different readings

,

according to context. Then in the next paragraph ,to give zest to his description , he declared that aprinted page was l ikely enough to have all thedifferent forms o f the characters scattered over itpell-mell. Perhaps Gardner was correct in sayingtwenty-sixWith the spoken language there was hope. In the

first place it was agglutinative. A language thatglues on its case endings, and builds up its grammatical forms of speech with l ittle pellets of cement,cannot but be hedonic . Ever since we were childrenwe had looked forward to having an agglutinativelanguage right down where we could study it withoutgetting hurt. Now we had one. Then

,too

,to go

back to my early days , I recalled the cloud grammarhad cast over my young life—how my soul hadprotested against it, and how it had come round atten O’clock each school day as though my soul hadnever spoken , or as though I had no soul (I knewgrammar had none). I t was with gratitude toProfessor Chamberlain, therefore, that I read thisparagraph of his .

“ A word as to the parts of Speech in Japanese.Strictly speaking, there are but two, the verb andthe noun .

” The only parts I ever knew !” I purred .)S


The particles or ‘post positions and suffixes,which

take the place of our prepositions,conjunctions

,and

conjunctional terminations,were themselves origin

ally fragments Of nouns and verbs . The pronounand numeral are simply nouns . The true adjective

(including the adverb)is a sort of neuter verb. Butmany words answering to our adjectives and adverbsare nouns in Japanese. There is no article. Al

together our grammatical categories do not fit theJapanese language wel l.”

Another interesting feature was the honorific.

That was a del ight second only to the absence ofparts of speech . In Japanese it seems all one’sown things are mean and vile

,while the

'

otherfellow’s are honourable

,august

,divine. Gardner

and I practised this,and soon each had the other

on a throne while he himself grovel led before himmost abjectly. We learned to apologise for l iving,and to say

,

“ Yesterday I had the honour of beingrude to you

,or

,

“ To-morrow will your augustnesscondescend to remind decayed me to buy somehonourable tea ? ” etc .If I wished to look at the laundry marks on

Gardner’s collars,to see if the august washerwoman

was not a thief,I should say : “ May I turn towards

your honourable collars my adoring glance ? ” but ifI wished Gardner to look at something of mine, Ishould say : “ O Gardner

,Prince

,august glance

deign towards my meretricious cake of Persianhealing pine-tar soap

,

” or whatever it was.I t so happened that our kimono were quite alike,

it having been necessary to buy three pieces of s ilk


to make two robes—one piece, according to the newpolice regulations

,not being sufli cient to clothe a

foreigner. Often we mixed these up,and in trying

to explain in Japanese (Engl ish being taboo out ofschool hours)we had some d ifli culty in establishingwhich was whose, and our honorifics got into a mess .For the life Of me I could not say whether the robein my hand was Gardner’s august mantle or myunmentionable rags . Gardner would be in equalmystery as to what he held. Then he would del iverhimself as to the august forgetfulness of the honourable idiot that had disarranged the room that morning under the pretence of sweeping up, and wouldsay : “ Well

,let’s wear them as they are. Your

heavenly attire may nOW‘ have become by my

possession even as that righteousness which hasnot faith . Who knows ? Let us label them somewhere inside the sleeve where the mark won’tshow.

”

Having settled this we started in on a few sentences,our daily commitment. Below are some samplesI

’

give on Professor Chamberlain’s authority. I n

the first l ine are the Japanese words,which flow

easily as Italian,and with as little emphasis on

syllables as there is in French. Then comes theinterlinear translation . I n the third l ine is the freeEnglish translation

,which shows how the idea hidden

in the Japanese sentence looks when it appears inEnglish. Not only is the second line l iteral

,but it

represents,as accurately as English words can

,the

order and sequence of the ideas as they exist inthe Japanese mind . After this transcript of a native


thought,it is not impossible to believe that globe

trotting book writers sometimes fall Short of perfectcomprehension when they describe the workingsof the Far Eastern mind. That the Japanese thinkdifferently from the Europeans is evident enough .

Their mental machinery is of another kind— theproduct of a different factory—and put together ondifferent principles of construction . An occurrencethat suggests a

' certain train of thought to the

European suggests a totally different train of thoughtto the Japanese. His whole intellectual inheritanceis different

,as well as his personal experience, his

environment during childhood,and the habits of

the society of which he has been a member. Hisideals spring from a d ifl

’

erent source,and his point

of V iew is vastly di fferent. As one instance of this,

the absence of the words “ you ” and “ I ” are illustrative. He has no real pronouns in his ianguage,but when he would present the idea of “

you” he

says “ honourable side —the idea being that theS ide of the room at which you sit is the place ofhonour, while he is humbly at your feet. I f he wouldsay “ I ” he uses the word “

watakushi (pronouncedwa-ta-k-Shi), which means selfishness .A study of the interl inear translations is the only

way to get at the“ Japanese mode.” Here are some

specimens

O ki no doku Sama.

Honourable poison-of-the-spirit Mr.

I am sorry for your sake.


Go burei moshi-agemashita.

August rudeness (I) said-l ifted.

I was very rude to you .

Ku te itadakite gozaimasu

Hearing wishing-to-put-on-the-head am

I wish you would be so kind as to ask .

0 shiete itadak itai

Teaching wish-to-put-on-the-head

I wish you would be so kind as to show me how.

We said these over and over on all occasions,

and even,

invented occasions particularly for theiruse. We became so polite that we found it difficultto speak truthfully

,and if we had not known each

other so well we should indeed have becomesuspicious .One day as I returned from a conversation class

of young Buddhists not far away,I heard Gardner

recite as follows . I have it exactly, for I Copied itfrom the text-book he was studying

“ No,indeed ! having risen hands wash act even

forthcomes not was . Washing basin’s water al

together freeze-sticking having finished how doingeven doing way is not was.” My heart beat withjoy. At last he had learned to

‘

think in Japanese.Should anyone be sceptical as to Gardner’s accuracy

,

let him look in Chamberlain’s Col loqm'

al j apam se,


p. 263, the second examp le on the page. Hereit is

Iya, mo ! okite te arau

No indeed having-risen hands particle) wash

koto mo dekimasen deshita

act even forth comes not was

Chozu bachi no mizu ga(possess ive (nominat iveWashing basinpaw

-

d c3

5) water particle)

maru de kori-tsuite shimatte

altogether freeze-stick ing having-finished

do Shite mo shiyo ga(nominat ivehow do ing even do ing-way part icle)

arimasen deshita

is-not was

And this is the translation

NO, indeed ! When I got up, I couldn

’t washmy hands . The basin was entirely frozen over

,

and all my efforts to break the ice were in vain .

”


Japanese babies of the twentieth century are asirresistible as they were when Sir Rutherford playedw ith them. They are precocious

,too, for they are a

year old the moment they are born , and two yearsold the first New Year’s Day. That is the way theJapanese reckon age ; counting the year in whichthe baby is born “ one,

” the next year “ two,

” andso on . I f you had been born in Japan just as thetemple bell was about to strike twelve the night o fDecember 3 I , you would be, according to the Japanesemind

,two years old with the first clang. So in

Japan,which to Europeans and Americans is a very

strange country indeed,one of a pair of twins might

be a year older than the other.Some travellers to this wonderful Empire have

said that Japanese babies never cry. That is notquite true . They have all the apparatus necessarymidriff,lungs , and vocal cords in excellent condition,and they know how to use these with effect ; butnevertheless one sees fewer tears in the Land of theRising Sun

,and hears less wailing, than in other

countries. This surprises the visitor, for he notesthe throngs of children in the streets—the playgroundfor almost all the youngsters in Japan ; he sees themtumble about so on their rather awkward woodenclogs

,fall ing Often with a good hard “

splap” upon

the roadway,that he wonders at hearing only shouts

of glee and laughte r. The children bounce about asharmlessly as rubber balls. Often when a youngsterstumbles and goes down with force enough almostto dent the pavement

,the stranger looking on is

sure there wil l be weeping. But the child is up

Bo CHAN 73

again quickly there is the l ittle pause which childrenat home use in gathering all their energy for a greatboo-hoo ! (the stranger knows it is coming andwonders what it will sound like in Japanese); then ,having recalled what it was thinking about at theinstant it fell

,the youngster scampers on as merrily

as before. The fall had interrupted its train ofthought for the moment, that was all .Because the children play al l over the streets

,one

needs a “ betto ” when one goes out for a drive inJapan . A betto is a footman—a most appropriateword—whose business it is to run on ahead of thehorse to clear the way. He does not lack for exercise

,

for his arms and legs are busy from the time thedrive begins until it is over. Japanese children arenot too careful

,and their mothers do not use nearly

as many safeguards as do the women of Westerncountries

,but there are fewer accidents . This is

rather a mystery, for every Japanese house has an“engawa,

” or porch, and these porches do not havefences along the edge to keep the infants fromfall ing o ff, nor are there gates at the tops of stairways

,when the houses happen to have stairways

,

yet I never saw a Japanese child fall downstairsnor o ff a porch

,nor ever heard of anyone else

witnessing such a mishap.

Another thing about these youngsters is that theyare all l ittle gentlemen and ladies—merry and happyas possible, but not rough. Mrs. Chaplin-Ayrtonsays this trait may be more apparent than real

,for

a grown person judges of the roughness of children’splay by the number of things they break

,and in a


Japanese house there is no furniture or bric-a-bracto destroy—not even chairs

,for the natives sit on

the floor. On the other hand,Professor Chamberlain

lays this gentleness to less robust health,which

means less animal spirits than foreign children have.However this may be

,the health Officers say that

the deathrate for children is lower in Japan than itis in Europe and in America. This is as it shouldbe , in a country where the houses are off the grounda foot or two and have no cellars , and the air insideis as fresh as it is out

,where

,too

,in such places at

least as Tokio, everyone bathes and has a goodScrubbing every day. From topersons go to the public baths of the capital daily

,

and there are tens of thousands of private bathsbesides. That is a good showing for a city with apopulation of two mill ions.When an infant is seven days old

,its mother

displays her talent as a barber by shaving its headal l but a l ittle bit at the back of the neck right atthe base of the skull

,l ike a goatee that had strayed

from its proper place. Later on she experimentswith various designs to discover the most becoming.

Sometimes she Shaves the top and the rim , andleaves a tonsure sometimes she leaves only the rim ;sometimes a scalp-lock and two love-locks only, butalways she is picturesque. This decorative shaving

process c ontinues until the youngster goes to school,say

,when he or she is five or Six . Then , usually, the

mother also weans him .

A disagreeable result often attends this shavingamong the children of the lower classes ; not serious

BO CHAN 75

at al l,but o ffensive to the sight. I t is eczema.

Heads are sometimes white with it. The only thingnecessary for its disappearance is soap and water

,

but in this one case Japanese superstition says “ no ”

to soap and water. Poverty and superstition areoften hand in hand, and the Japanese poor havemany superstitions . They believe the cause of theeczema is the il l health in thei r children workingthrough the scalp

,an outward and visible S ign o f

an inward and physical wickedness . This physicalwickedness they wish their children to be rid of

,so

they encourage eczema. They wash the youngstersfaces and bod ies daily, but omit the shampoo. Professor Chamberlain call s attention to the fact

,anent

Japanese “ topsy-turvydom,

” that young subjects ofthe M ikado stop shaving when they begin to go toschool instead of beginning to shave when they leaveo ff going to school.After what has been said about the Japanese way

of reckoning age it may seem strange they shouldhave birthday celebrations

,or else one might think

it would be consistent with the native custom foreveryone to celebrate his or her birthday on January1 . There is a grand national birthday then, thatlasts two weeks ; but apart from this there are twomore birthday celebrations—one on the third day ofthe third month (March 3)for all the girls in Japan ,and the other on the fifth day of the fifth month

(May 5)for al l the boys .The girls celebrate with a festival of dolls. Atthat time Japan, which in many ways suggests aland of dolls to the European

,is doll ier ” than ever.


The dolls are of all kinds and sizes,and often

wonderfully l ife-l ike,so that at first glance one is

not sure whether a girl is playing with a real babyor a make-believe. Japanese girls carry their dollsabout on their backs snugly tucked away inside theirj ackets

,just as Japanese nurses carry babies . And

,

oddly enough, nurses in Japan are Often not mucholder than the babies they are Caring for. Sometimesone sees a l ittle nurse playing hopscotch while a babyis fast asleep on her back

,its

.

tiny head rolling aboutthis way and that

,and its face looking right up at

the sun, so that were it not for the protec tion of itsthick eyelids the glare would make it blind .

The boys have a grand time of it, too, when theirturn comes . Then the air is full of fishes

,as two

months earlier the streets were ful l of dolls. Thefishes are “ koi

,as the Japanese cal l them ; scientific

men say they are Cyprz'

nas faematoptoras , but theyare much better looking than that

,though fully as

long. What they represent is large carp swimmingbravely against the stream

,as the parents hope their

sons will do on reaching man’s estate. The carp,

which are attached to the tops of tal l poles,are

hollow,with wide -open mouths and paper bodies

,

through which the breezes blow,keeping them dis

tended,and swaying to and fro in a movement

similar to swimming. Every house where there areboys has these fishes up aloft

,and many other carp

down below,but of a kind that taste better than

paper full of wind .

Hopscotch is by no means the only game Japaneseboys and girls have in common with children in


glass to the strings and each tries to cut the other’skite free.The Japanese have some wonderful tricks withtops, and the visitor should be sure to see the topjuggler, who can send his top humming up one arm ,

across his shoulders,and down the other arm

,on

to the palm of his hand, or out on to the end of afan

,whence he will make it j ump to the edge of a

sword,where it will spin as comfortably as though

it were on solid ground . He can also throw it sothat it wil l return to him

,boomerang fashion . He

can also spin two tops together,one inside the other.

Prisoner’s base is the same in this country,except

that the offi cer is called “ oni,

” which means demon,

or ghost,or evil spirit. “ Puss-in-the-corner is an

oni also. Blind-man’s buff ” is quite the same,but

if you play it with Japanese I may warn you notto say “ come here

,in English , to anyone you may

be trying to catch. I t wil l be all right to say inJapanese

,

“ chotto oide (come here a moment), oroide nasai (condescend to come here). The personSpoken to will not “ Oide

,

” of course,if he or She can

help himself or herself,but if you called out in

English,

“ Come here,

” as I know a foreigner d idonce

,you may interrupt the game. Come here (in

Japanese characters written “ ka-mi means foreigndog. Inu is the word for native dog, but the firstforeigners in Yokohama

,American and English

folk,always said “ come here ” to their dogs, and

the expression has become the native word for dogsnot Japanese.Stilts

,as the children use them in Japan , would

Bo CHAN 79

not be comfortable for European children , unlessthey were accustomed to go barefoot, as all nativechildren go . The long upright pole comes up between the big toe and the next toe to it, and thewhole length of the foot res ts on the round crosspiece

,which sticks out l ike one arm of a cross . The

foot really grasps the pole monkey fashion, for, beingaccustomed to clogs and the thongs that hold theclogs on

,the Japanese foot is much more prehens ile

than the European foot.Experts say that Japanese “ Checkers

,which the

natives call “ G0,” is more difficult than our chess .

A l l classes of society play it a great deal . Goodplayers receive diplomas. There are grand nationaltournaments

,and the championship brings great

honour to the holder and to his house. I t is saidthat one family has won this continuously for overone hundred years . Shogi,

” or Japanese chess,is a

difficult game, but so popular that even the cool iesplay it well.Fencing is something that both men and women

used to study in the days of the samurai ” (knights)and their two swords. I t sounds much rougherthan it really is, for the long two-handed bamboosticks make a loud report whenever they strike.The Japanese call our cards Turampu (trumps),

and play them as we do,but they have a tiny set of

their own which they cal l “ Hana (flowers)and dealround to the right instead of to the left as we deal .A good lot Of the fun comes in with the scoring ;sometimes the losers receive a black mark on theface with a brush for each point they lose. The


winners give them these marks on the face withIndia ink . At the end of an evening’s playing theplayers look not unlike tatooed savages.The game of “ Jack-stones or Knuckle-bones is

common all over the country, but the children usesmal l bags instead of knuckle - bones

,for Japan is

not a mutton country. Sheep do not thrive,because

they have a habit of eating bamboo grass,which

spoils both their wool and the meat.The game of “ Kitsune (Fox), is famous for the

quickness it demands . To play it, make a sl ip noosein the middle of a length of rope. Two playerstake hold of this rope

,one at each end

,and hold

it as nearly taut as they can without closing thenoos e. The noose is the trap. A third player

,the

fox,s its half-way between them

,facing the noose.

Just opposite to him,on the other side of the noose,

is a cup or a cake , which is the prize. The fox’sobject is to reach through the noose

,grab the prize

and pull it back through the noose before the twoplayers hold ing the rope can catch him in the trap .

I f they catch him he pays a forfeit,if they do not

he takes the cake.Another game “ Hana

,hana (Nose, nose), has

someth ing of the same idea in it as “ S imon says‘thumbs up.

’ S ight controls action more eff ectivelythan sound

,and in “ Hana

,hana ” the leader takes

advantage of this by ordering one thing whi le doinganother. The other players are apt to fol low the

motions rather than the commands . For instance,the girl (or boy) at the head , tips his nose with hisfirst finger

,saying “ Nose

,nose

,nose

,eye !” at the

BO CHAN 81

same time putting his finger to h is chin . The otherswho must be looking into the leader’s face, will findtheir fingers on their chins too , unless they are alert.They Should have touched their eyes in obedienceto the command eyes

,

” if they would not receive anink spot or pay some other forfeit.Stil l another Hana game is with a lot of loops

of string,and is perhaps as amus ing to chi ldren as

any game can be. The Ioops must be made toorder

,one for each player

,and must fi t tightly

round behind the ear and over the tip of the nose .

I f it is well on,and the player

’

s nose is not tooretroussé, the loop should not fal l o ff without cons iderable e ffort on the player

’s part, espec ially as

he or she may use the face muscles only. O therthings being equal

,the bes t face-maker wins.

Something sim ilar to bobbing for apples is agame that even grandfathers play along with theirgrandchildren in Japan . I t is easy there

,because

Japanese floors are covered with thick soft mats .Hard floors would not do , for a part of the gameis that the players must walk on their knees . Theyhold their feet up behind them

,one in each hand

,

and todd le forward to the centre of the room,where

a fru it or a cake or a biscuit hang from the ceil ingby a string. The idea is to bite out a p iece

,but

biting and balanc ing are d ifl'

icult to do simultaneously.

Hence the fun.

Kitsune ken is a forfeit game for two or for anynumber of players . The players use signs for“ kitsune

”

(fox),“ teppo (gun), and

“ otoko ” (man).The idea of the game is that the man is mightier

6


than the gun , the gun more deadly than the fox , andthe fox more cunning than the man . Hands on thethighs or hips is the sign for “ otoko one handat the side and the other higher

,and in front of

the body,as though aiming a gun

,is for “ teppo ”

;

while both hands up, one at each side of the headlike a fox’s ears

,is k itsune .

” The players s it fac ingeach other

,clap hands

,or chant a l ine of a song ;

at the end of this each makes a S ign . I f both signsare alike there is no count

,but if one makes the

fox S ign and the other the man S ign,the man sign

loses and has to submit to the forfeit. So the manS ign wins over the “ gun ” S ign

,and the “ gun ” Sign

wins over the “ fox ” S ign .

Exactly the same in principle is the forfe it gamewith one hand , where a closed fist represents a stone

,

an open palm a handkerchief,and the first and

second fingers extended apart with the other twofingers and the thumb closed

,represent scissors .

Stone beats scissors,handkerchief beats stone

,and

sc issors beat handkerchief.Thumb wrestl ing is a common game

,too . P layers

grasp hands with the thumbs sticking up,holding

each other by the four fingers only. The wrestl ingis a battle of thumbs, each thumb trying to bendthe other down forward and hold it there.There are some hand - S lapping tricks

,too , but

one would need a cinematograph to explain themclearly.

CHAPTER X I

0 J O SAMA

NE needs to see Japanese girls at home ifone would know them , needs to l ive in the

same household w ith them the year round,for there

is much in their gentle l ives they do not d iscoverreadily. We had a roomful in a class over in

Okashi San’s,and we saw much of the daughters

of the families near by , but I suspect we never quitefathomed 0 Jo Sama . The gl impses travel lershave in Tok io and in the seaport cities

,where one

sees native girls in the shops and the bazaars,in

the restaurants,in the streets, round about the

temple grounds,and in hundreds of the publ ic

schools,do not tel l the story.

I t is better to go into the country to thosewonderful ly picturesque and dainty homes alongsome old Kaido that the railways have not yetmolested , where l ife to-day is the same that it wasa thousand years ago. There one may see Japanesecharacter as ages of feudal ism moulded it and leftit hardly a quarter of a century s ince

,and may

study the ch ief glory of this character—Japanesegirls.


Japanese men do not know ch ivalry , as Westerners understand the word , but the womenfolk intwo-score generations of repression are marvels ofgentleness

,discretion , and absolute unselfishness .

A l ife that would be into lerable to an Engl ish orto an American girl is normal to the daughters ofthe R ising Sun

,who meet its restrictions and encum

brances with tact, patience, and unending cheerfulness . How she can do so is difficu l t to understand ,nor does seeing this perennial sunshine make thebelieving in it altogether easy. At first

,though

one may wonder and adm ire,and even reverence

,

the merry little body, one doubts there may be

somewhat in her heart her looks bel ie. But onknowing her

,as one sees her in the household daily

through the year, one comes to bel ieve that in thelong l ine of her ancestors a process has been atwork

,with the result that those organs whose

function is the display of irritation have becomeatrophied .

The opinion of Marion Crawford’s sister,Mrs .

Hugh Fraser,i s worthy of attention. She was in

Japan for years with her husband while he wasM in ister P lenipotentiary in Tokio . M rs . Frasersays

,

“ In real womanl iness,which I take to mean

a high combination of sense and sweetness,valour

and humil ity , the Japanese lady ranks with anywoman in the world

,and passes before most of

them .

”

One Of these Object lessons in the gentler virtueswas Aya San, who l ived not a great way fromTok io

,the busy heart of the Empire ; she was as


Oka San shaved her eyebrows when she left herown home to become a member of her husband’sfamily

,and had stained her teeth jet black. When

she became a widow She cut her hair. Short hair,no eyebrows

,and black teeth reads l ike a com

bination fatal to al l attractiveness,nor are they

agreeable to the unaccustomed eye. After a l ittle,

however, one ceases to remark them ,and in the

case of Oka San they d id not destroy her charm,

for her gentle k indl iness of manner obl iterated al lthought of them .

Oj i San , the grandfather, was an old man longin retirement as the Japanese say. Hiswants were simple. He spent his time at chess

,

and writing poetry and read ing the Chinese classics.

Aya San and Oka San had great reverence for him .

They loved h im doubtless,too

,though in their tongue

the word to use towards elders means to venerate.He it was who instructed them in “ Onna Daigaku

”

The Whole Duty ofWomen,

” as Professor Chamberlain translates the title Of the ancient treatise).

1 Th iswas their gospel . Women of the West would havesmall patience with it

,but Aya San and her mother

bel ieved it was very truth indeed. A man wrote it,

of course,one Kaibara by name

,who was a famous

moral ist.Oj i San used to read “ The Whole Duty to them ,

s itting on his cush ion by the fire-box and arrangingthe charcoals now and then with the tiny fire-tongs,so that they would burn wel l and keep the water1j anm a1 of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great B ritain , vol . 12.

0 J 0 SAMA 87

in the small iron kettle hot for h is fragrant cupsof tea .

Onna Daigaku begins as fol lows, according toProfessor Chamberlain’s translation . One wouldthink Kaibara was d iscoursing upon Hooligansrather than upon angels

“ Seeing that it is the girl’s destiny on reachingwomanhood to go to a new home , and l ive in subm ission to her father-in -law, it is even more incumbent on her than it i s on a boy to receive with al lreverence her parents ’ ins tructions. Should herparents , through excess of tenderness, al low her togrow Up self-wil led , She wi l l infal libly show herselfcapricious in her husband

’

s house, and thus al ienateh is aff ection , while, if her father-in-law be a manof correct principles , the girl will find the yoke ofthese principles intolerable ; she w il l hate and decryher father- in - law

,and the end of these domestic

d issens ions wil l be her d ism issal from her husband ’shouse

,and the covering of herself with ignom iny.

Her parents , forgetting the fau lty education they

gave her, may indeed lay al l the blame on thefather -in - law ; but they wil l be in error ; for thewhole d isaster should be rightly attributed to thefaulty education the girl received from her parents .

“ More prec ious in a woman is a virtuous heartthan a face of beauty. The vicious woman’s heartis ever excited ; she glares w ildly around her, She

vents her anger on others , her words are harsh andher accents vu lgar. When she speaks it is to setherself above others, to upbraid others, to envyothers, to be pu ffed up w ith ind ividual pride , to


jeer at others , to outdo others, —al l things at variancewith the ‘way ’ a woman should walk. The onlyqualities that befit a woman are gentle obedience,chastity, mercy, and quietness .

“ From her earliest youth a girl should observethe line of demarcation separating women frommen

,and never, even for an instant, should she be

allowed to see or hear the least impropriety. Thecustoms of antiquity did not allow men and womento sit in the same apartment

,to keep their wearing

apparel in the same place,to bathe in the same

place,or to transmit to each other anything from

hand to hand . A woman going abroad at nightmust in al l cases carry a lighted lamp

,and (not to

speak of strangers) she must observe a certaindistance in her relations even with her husband andwith her brethren . In our days , the women of thelower classes, ignoring all rules of this nature, behavethemselves disorderly ; they contaminate their reputation

,bring down reproach on their parents and

brethren,and spend their whole lives in an unprofit

able manner. Is not this truly lamentable ? I t iswritten l ikewise in the Lesser Learning that a womanmust form no friendship and no intimacy except whenordered to do so by her parents or the middleman .

’

Even at the peril Of her life must she harden herheart l ike rock or metal

,and observe the rules of

propriety.

”

So the Onna Daigaku goes on for many,many

pages,which Oj i San expounded, while Aya San and

Oka San crouched before him on their shins,their

tiny feet crossed under them,and their hands straight


she had never enjoyed . If conventions shut in herl ife as a cage shuts in a canary’s

,she did not know

that the condition was not normal . Her life wouldbe like her mother’s l ife. Why not ? She had notthought about it

,had not expected anything different.

The “ three obediences would be al l there couldbe in it ; first to her parents

,then to her husband

and to his parents and should she become a widow,

she would obey her eldest son , or if she were without a son , whoever might be the head of herhusband’s family.

“ Why not ? again,for ever

since there have been Japanese women it has beentheir business to obey.

Oka San had lived up to this teaching faithfully,

and now that Dana San (Master), her husband , wasdead

,and his relatives were far away

,Oj i San ,

though inkiyo , ruled the household . His body,

that of a warrior once,had long ceased to be erect

,

but his mind was bright as ever,and as he read

aloud the passages from the “ Whole Duty hisface behind his huge tortoiseshel l-rimmed glasseswas as wise as an owl’s . The contrast between hiswords, squeezed out with an intonation quite inharmony with the text

,and the appearance of his

l isteners,was both ludicrous and sad.

As to the mother - in - law, indeed she was anelement to consider in the matrimonial equationin the days when Kaibara wrote—a quantity partlyknown and partly unknown

,but with undoubted

abil ities for making trouble. Had there been newspapers then the paragrapher would have found herfully as usefu l as ~

she is to-day, but it would have

O J O SAMA 9 1

been Mrs . Youngwife instead of Mrs. Younghusband—a heroine rather than a hero in the tragedy.

I f Oj i San’s words are true, the women beforehim

,one so young and one past middle life, must

be mistresses of the art of dissembling. To lookless vicious would be impossible. One refuses tobel ieve that they could “ glare wildly round ” evenshould they try. Oj i San is surely wasting wordsupon them . But he means well , and they are sosubmissive.

“ I t shal l be your duty when you go to yourhusband ’s house

,Aya San, said the Old man

,

“ toreverence your father-in-law, and to obey him andyour mother-in-law in al l things as you have obeyedyour own parents. Fi l ial piety is the chief duty of

a girl . You must give yourself up to their direction.

I t is well you have learned to boil rice properly,

and to speak to your superiors always with yourface to the floor

,and to control that harshness

natural to a woman’s voice which , alas, is the causeof so much domestic infelicity. Your mother-in-law

would send you back to us instantly if you servedsaggy rice or rice hard from insufficient boiling.

That is a most just cause for divorce. Be evermindful lest you bring infin ite disgrace upon yourself and upon this house by inattentiveness to rice.D isobedience also wil l cause you to come back tous covered with ignominy ; and in speech be carefulevery instant of your existence

,for here is the truth

as I wil l read it to you—the s ixth reason for justdivorce. ‘A woman shall be divorced

,

’ says thesage Kaibaru

,

‘who by talking over much and


prattling disrespectfully d isturbs the harmony ofkinsmen

,and brings troub le on her household .

’

Remember, too, that a woman once married andthen divorced has wandered from the ‘way,

’ and iscovered with the greatest shame

,even if she Should

enter into a second union with a man of wealthand position .

Surely Japan is severe with the girl who is notup ” on rice. Imagine English custom demandingthat the young wife who does not bake properlyshould go back to her parents’ house with a characteras black as the bottoms of her first loaves

,and a

heart as heavy as their insides !“ But how about the husband ? someone may

ask .

“ Where does he come in ? What is therethat he must do or must not do ? That is hardto say. The answer seemingly is,

“ Nothing.

” Atleast there is no Otoko Daigaku,

” or Whole Dutyo f Man .

” I t is a pity. Japanese women Shouldhave an opportun ity to write one

,but to let them

would be indelicate,and if they had opportunity

they would not think of doing anything so impolite.I f men wrote one—but they have no chivalry.

Aya San bowed low as Oj i San closed his bookat the end of each reading

,and ejaculated : Honour

able Grandfather,your august words are honourable

truth.

” Then she would pour hot water into thetiny teapot from the kettle on the coals

,and give

Honourable Grandfather a tall blue cupful o f am ild beverage very diff erent from the dark concoctionone drinks in London .

After Honourable Grandfather,Bo Chan , the baby


remonstrance,she must wait over a season and then

expostulate with him again when his heart 15 softened .

Never set thyself up against thy husband with harshfeatures and a boisterous voice

“ That is rather more of meekness,I fear

,than‘

we Christians are wont to expect,

” said the missionary to himself ;

“ but after ten years here I havecome to bel ieve that our Japanese sisters

,heathen

though they may be, have achieved it. I havelearned something from them . Oj i San continued

“ A woman should be circumspect and sparingin her use of words , and never, even for a passingmoment

,should she slander others or be guilty of

untruthfulness. Should she ever hear calumny sheshould keep it to herself and repeat it to none

,

for it is the relating of calumny that disturbs theharmony of kinsmen and ruins the peace of families.”

“ Next to gospel that is the truth itself,

” agreedthe missionary ;

“ but why should it be ‘for womenand raising his voice he c ried

“ Gomen na sai ! I n a moment the “ shop (thesliding paper door), opened, and Aya

’s pretty faceappeared . The missionary made excuses for disturbing the august household, and then asked aboutthe road. She replied sweetly and begged him totake a cup of tea

,most good for honourable weari i

ness.” Over the tea he asked more quest ions,and

talked so long that he had to hasten back to Tokiowhen he left

,lest he should miss his evening service.

A few days later he was out again,with an offer

in writing from his mission to take Aya San intothe mission school and give her an education free


European fashion,and wear European clothes

,

arrange their hair without the use of the perfumedcocoanut-oil paste of former days. They have longlists of male acquaintances, not one of whom istheir husband

,play the violin and piano, ride bicycles ,

play tennis,w in prizes in archery, talk over tele

phones,and actually precede the men when entering

a room.

CHAPTER X I I

HAPPY NEW YEAR

APAN is the jolliest country in the world atthe New Year. Gardner and I found it threetimes jolly

,in fact. Each January 1 ,

subjects in the Land o f the R ising Sun begin topaint not a mere “ town, as a band of cowboysmight

,but the whole of the M ikado’s Empire. The

colour is naturally the glorious roseate hue of theImperial emblem—The R ising Sun . This deep redharmony

,they say

,is eminently fitting at the be

ginning of the year ; and that the painting may bewell done

,they administer three distinct and separate

coats right lavishly.

The bottom or foundation coat is two full weeksin putting on . Joy flows in streams along thethoroughfares

,swelled by rivulets from every house .

Al l the city folk call on each other ; all the countryfolk come in to help them do it ; and everybodygives everybody presents. This may be called theoff icial New Year. I t dates only from 1870, whenthe Japanese Government changed its calendar toconform to that of the rest of the world . On thefirst of February there is a second coating—this is

7


the New Year of Old Japan,stil l dear to the rural

heart. A l l the country folk call on one anotherthen, and many of the city folk go out to help them .

There is less formality about this celebration,less

éclat, but good - fellowship abounds,and joy is

rampant for a week.

The third coating is given in good old Chinesestyle. Its date depends on the moon

,as does our

Easter festival. Each household celebrates by itselfin part, and in part with outside friends ; but thisfeast is more domestic

,though not less sacredly

observed than the two preceding.

The New Year season is the time to see Japansocially at its best. I t is true there are no “ kiku

,

”

as they call crysanthemums, nor plum nor cherryblossoms . The kiku comes in the autumn and thesakura ” (or cherry), and the

“ ume ” (the plum) inApril

,both seasons when all outdoors is a garden

party, and exquisitely picturesque, but, with all itslovel iness

,it is only the outside one sees then .

To look into the homes and the’

hearts of al lJapan one must be there New Year’s Day. Businessgenerally is suspended

,both private and public.

Doors open wide then,and hospitality, such as is

unknown in Europe or America, is the rule withoutexception .

The j in-riki-sha cool ie is the only one that works ,but his task hardly is irksome. Waiting while hisfare makes a call

,he feasts in the kitchen with the

cook,so that when night comes

,though his load

is rather heavy probably,he does not complain .

The geisha has her bus iest season at New Year,


that in many cases he knows nothing of the honourable health

,or of the weather

,or of other conditions

at the homes of those whom he is addressing :“ With the rigorous inclemency Of the weather so

increasing,I have the honour to rejoice at your

august robustness. What I have to say is,august

consideration honourably vouchsafed during pastyear

,most humbly

,most gratefully acknowledged

,

deign to continue the same and to pardon the contemptible selfishness of selfish me, for the unspeakable effrontery of venturing to address honourableyou . YOUR LITTLE IMBECILE

This writing entails no l ittle labour,for there is

no type-writer for the Chinese characters which theJapanese use in correspondence. The pen or ratherthe brush strokes are by hand, sometimes forty ofthem in a single name. No wonder that in Januarysome wrists are tired.

The calls,too

,have their l ittle peculiarities

,for it

is the cal lee,not the caller

,who is the principal re

cipient o f favours. With each call the caller presentsa gift

,usually some sort of food ; but anything will

do,even money. Boxes Of eggs are in demand ; so

is “ kasutera,” or sponge-cake. Kasutera is from the

Dutch word “ Casteel ” (Castile), for Spanish bread .

The Dutch at Nagasaki in 1600 first taught theJapanese the art Of making that dainty. Wine

,

beer,all sorts of canned goods, and articles of

apparel are distributed too. I t is a great seasonfor the brewer

,the baker

,the confectioner

,the dis

tiller,and the hens .

As presents come in such profusion,they would

HAPPY NEw; :mAaaccumulate beyond control were it not for the

custom of “ passing along.

” I t is not at al l necessary that madam should eat all the eggs that aregiven her. That would be difficult, and to keepthem long about the house would not be pleasant ;so

,after reserving whatever she chooses, she puts

her card in each of the remaining boxes, and whenher lord comes in for the fresh supply Of gifts whichhe needs in order to continue his round of calls

,

She hands them to him .

Thus replenished,he starts out again

,and madam

at home gathers in a further col lection . This keepsup for a fortnight

,during which the kasutera and

the eggs do not grow fresher. The dealers whosupply these commodities

,however , provide against

damage to their reputations by pasting in the boxof cake or eggs something to this effect “ Thiscake was baked at 1 1 p.m .

,December 3 1 . These

eggs were laid at 2 a.m .,January 1

,

‘kotoshi ’ (thisyear)

”

AS these presents are passing along they Oftencomplete the circuit and arrive at the place whencethey were first sent out

,but it is only to begin the

tour again . There is no rest for a Japanese New

Year’s gift until it is eaten or drunk or lost.Al l one’s tradespeople will call

,too

,bearing samples

of their wares,commensurate with the amount of

patronage each dealer has received . They presentthese samples with many bows and a request for acontinuance of their patron’s august condescensiond uring the ensuing year.While the shops are closed to business they are

open for pleasure,and there is a banquet in each

home from early morning until early morning everyday of the two weeks. And the tradesman hopesthat all those who have honoured the shop withtheir patronage wil l call and bring their friends .Foreigners seem to be particularly welcome at

this time,especially Englishmen and Americans

,for

the common people l ike English-speaking folk. Aman from England or the States might begin tofeast early New Year’s Day

,and continue feasting

until January 15, if he could endure it, even amongstrangers. The shopkeepers would Show him moregenuine hospitality than his own cousins would athome .As there is plum-pudding at Christmas in England

,

and turkey for Thanksgiving in America,so there is

mochi and shirozaki”for the New Year in Japan.

Mochi is good,and so is shirozaki. Mochi is made

of rice boiled in fresh water and pounded in amortar until it is dough

,then it is rolled out like a

yard of baker’s bread,cut in slices and laid to dry

till a S l ight crust forms,when it is ready to toast.

Often,boiled beans are worked into the dough

,til l

the casual globe - trotter might mistake it for anut sweet.Shirozaki is white and thick , quite different from

the thin pale sherry colour Of ordinary saké. I t issweet and wholesome

,made of rice, with the body

of the fermented grain left in.

The country-folk repeat these grand two weeks ofcelebration a month later, for they are S low to adoptnew customs though they enjoy the ofl‘icial New

CHAPTER X I I I

CHITS ”AND PERDITION

ERTA IN moneys Gardner had expected tocollect when we ran down to Yokohama were

not immediately in evidence,and we therefore had

recourse to “ chits .”“ Deuced convenient things

,you know

,a globe

trotter remarked to us of chits ; and he was right.TOO convenient

,if anything. Take

,for instance

,the

man with a thirst and no money. He will find theJapanese seaport a joyous place. The combination so trying abroad is of no inconveniencewhatever in those hospitable abodes and , be

sides,those petty annoyances incident to having

money always in one’s pockets are done awaywith.

There you are always good for a drink , or anything else. I f you do not look too much like asailor— a

“ Damyoureyes San ,” as the natives say

and are able to write your name,you need not

worry. The secret of al l this is chits. “ Chits ,”

being interpreted,means joy made easy

,joy

and other things. They are one of the pleasantestcurses known to man . Great and wicked was the

104

CHITS AND PERDITION 105

brain that invented them . The owner Of that brainis already responsible for hundreds Of merry-makingwrecks

,who with al l too much facil ity have drunk

themselves to death on his ingenious plan . He hasbeen their evil gen ius

,but what he did was con

summated with a l iberality of manner that robbeddeath of half its sting.

Public opinion in the seaports is not pronouncedenough to emphasise the line between the use andthe abuse of chits. Among old residents there isOpinion against the abuse

,of course

,but there are

SO many transients ” with homes that are far,far

away. Among these, in a large measure, restraintis ineffectual

,and so it happens that men

, particu

larly young men , do feel freer than is safe. Theyare a genial lot

,fond of outdoor life, well travelled

generally,and well read

,with charming manners

,

and hospitable,with a frank generosity that wins

at once. They have leisure beyond the dreams Of

toilers in the West. They work harder now,per

haps,than formerly

,those of them with occupation

,

but their custom was to come down to work at tenam . and to quit usual ly by four. Out of these Six

hours one and a half were spent at the clubs or inthe great hotels

,where chit signing is indulged in

as a l iberal art. In the races twice a year theyrode their own horses, and out Of respect to theturf, when the races were on , all business , evenbanking, was at a standstill. Wine flowed as fastas the laws o f gravity al lowed , but there was l ittlecash in sight. The boys who served the drinks didnot handle money. They pushed the bottle and a


scratch - pad towards you,and someone signed .

The chit then went to some hotel.When a few months later you wished to pay

,you

would have some trouble in find ing the slip to whichyou had put your name. Going from one place toanother, at each the manager would say

“ I don’t know. They may be here. If I findthem I ’ll send them up to you. Let’s see ; what isyour address ? ”

If you were sure he had them,you might pay and

he would credit you. Then you owned the place.Whatever you bought thereafter he might not chargeagainst you, but would say,

“ That goes to squareus for what you paid against the chits I neverfound.

”

I t is only globe-trotters that carry much cash intheir pockets in Yokohama

,and they soon give up

carrying it,just as they give up eating rice-curry

with a fork. Railway people and beggars are theonly people who don’t take chits

,but the railroad

,

though convenient,is not necessary

,and if one

bel ieves in the doctrine s imilz'

a sz'

mz'

l z'

bas curantur,

he can pass beggars by also,and never know the

touch of fi lthy lucre.I f you offer money to the barber

,he may say

, Oh,

wait til l the end of the month. We can’t bothermaking up cash now. S ign a chit .At the tailor’s you are asked

,

“ Shall I sendgoods to the club or to your hotel ? ” If youabout payment

,the reply is, Oh, we

’l l send yomemorandum now and then, to let youyou stand with us. But that is not a bill


would come in January may find himself mysteriouslymoved into the December class

,but that does not

matter much .

Besides these annuals,bi-annuals

,and monthlies

,

there is a class made up,it is said

,o f those who do

not pay until they die. These men have l ife insurancepolicies, or assurance policies, to speak with localaccuracy , and, be ing thus assured , they do not botherwho holds their chits

,or whether the chits were

signed ten days or ten years ago. There are fewmen

,however

,who have signed chits steadily for

ten years . Three years is generally the l imit. Aman can S ign a barrelful in that time—a barrel fulthat stands for many other barrels empty. Whenthe assured man dies , his chits appear, and straightway are paid

,the first money collected from the

policy -going for this .The number of chits not paid is large considered

by itself,though relatively small . I t is this fact that

is the penniless man’s advantage. He l ives on thefringe or ragged edge of the crazy quilt o f chits untilhe “ loses his face

,

” or drinks himself into the hereafter. When his “ face is gone he may sign nolonger. He drifts into the Consul’s hands

,and is

sent home steerage at his Government’s expense. Hemay so dread the thought Of home that he flies tothe natives, among the disreputable of whom he musthave some acquaintance, and in return for a modicumof seaweeds

,fish

,and rice-beer, teaches Peter Parley

’sH is tory of Me World , or possibly the art of mixingcocktails.When he dies

,the chances are that the foreign

CHITS AND PERDITION 109

residents will subscribe to bury him decently, andothers of his class will mourn for him ,

hoping thatsome day someone will do the same for them .

The class is one,however, that is less in evidence

each year.As the transient population Of Yokohama increases,

chit signing may disappear,although the habit is

second nature to those who live there now. Hereand there a man rebels

,and swears that he will never

S ign another chit, but a temptation that is everpresent is hard to resist for long. With nothingbetween a thirsty man and the drink he longs forbut the scrawling Of his name on a sl ip Of paper

,

the chances are that the thirst wil l win . Otherthings , too, he may crave as keenly, things that wil ldo him less good than a drink ; the fatal paper makesit all too easy, and reform d ifli cult.

“ SO they sent him out here to sober Up, didthey ? ” said a London newspaper man who was attiffin at a club in one of the treaty ports one day,and was ‘ speaking to a friend of a youth whoseparents thought Japan would do wonders for theirbright but wayward Child .

“ M ight have as well sent him to Hades to cool

CHAPTER X IV

THE CENSOR AND THE CRAFTY EDITOR

KASHI SAN had given us a letter to a Tokiofriend

,the editor of a newspaper. He had

been to Oxford, and to Harvard University inAmerica, and we were eager to meet him ,

butinquiries at the address Okashi had given us weresingularly unavailing. After much searching wefound our gentleman in jail.When I learned of the vicissitudes of his profession

,

however,I wondered how he had kept out so long.

It was an occupation beset with difficulties indeed .

Vexatious enough in al l countries, in the Land o f

the R ising Sun it has been so uncertain that it isa marvel it was even possible. To an Englishman

,

and yet more to an American or an Austral ian,such

uncertainty would be intolerable. The Japaneseeditor

,l ike Brer Rabbit in Uncle Remus

,never has

known what minnit’s going to be the next.”

In looking into the business I found that sincethe promulgation of the Constitution in 1889 , papershad been suspended at the rate of one a week ,while some of the more outspoken writers hadgrown so familiar with the way to the “ honourable

no

1 12 THE HEART OF JAPAN

and that is all there is about it. No reason is given .

The disapproved article is not even mentioned in theorder of suspension . Small wonder, then, that thereis discontent

,and that the cry for reform grows

louder every day. And this cry is not without effect,for now Government promises to give editors a publictrial when there has been transgression.

Here is a translation by Basil Hall Chamberlain ofwhat the editor of the N c zi saysof the tribulations of journalism in Dai N ippon“ Newspapers and magazines are confronted by aspecial danger— the danger, namely, of suspensionwhen the ir words are held to be prej udicial to thepublic order ; and a suspension , too , against whichthere is no appeal . Article xix. of the NewspaperRegulations now in force says : ‘When a newspaperhas printed matter which is considered prejudicialto public order or subversive o f public moral ity

,the

M inister Of State for the Interior is empowered tosuspend its publication either totally or temporarily.

’

Nor is there a word said in the regulations wherebythe prej udicial or non-prejudicial character of astatement or argument is to be determined . I t issuffi cient that the O ffi cial in question should decide, inaccordance with his own individual opinion

,that the

statement or argument is thus prejudic ial to publicorder

,for a newspaper to incur at any moment the

penalty of suspension , whether total or temporary.

I t is indisputable that the authorities are empoweredby the law of the land to act thus. The Constitutionitself gives them this power. The result is that wewriters are constantly obl iged , in taking our pen in

THE CENSOR AND THE CRAFTY EDITOR 1 1 3

hand,to keep to ourselves seven or eight of every ten

Opinions we would fain express .”

When a paper ventures too far, and the censor iscalled upon to w rite the order of suspension , he isbrief but pol ite—wonderfully pol ite. He puts thehonorifics “ O or Go before each of the nouns andverbs. Prefix ed to a noun “ 0

” means honourable,

to a verb it means honourably ; S imilarly GO meansaugust

,augustly. SO the order when it arrives wil l

read somewhat as follows“ Deign honourably to cease honourably publish

ing august paper. Honourable editor,honourable

publisher,honourable chief printer

,deign honourably

to enter august jail.”

The honourable editor with his honourable co

workers bow low before the messenger of the censor,

acknowledging the honour Of the august notification,

and then accompany him to the honourable jail,

chatting the meanwhile Of the weather,or of the

flower shows,or of the effects of the floods on the

rice crop. Centuries of breeding under Japaneseetiquette have rendered it impossible for them toShow annoyance. They do not know how.

When a paper has been suspended,the first inti

mation the publ ic has of the fact is the quiet in thecomposing-room . Few places in the world whereregular business is carried on are noisier than aJapanese composing - room . The amount of noisetherein is determined only by the cubic capacity ofthe apartment. I f it is a larger room

,there is more

noise ; if a smaller, there is less ; but in workinghours it is always chock - full. The confusion at

8


the Tower of Babel is there vividly suggested every

For the ordinary Tokio paper there will be at leasttwenty men and boys marching to and fro

,each

yell ing at the top of his voice. There seems neitherhead nor tai l to this confusion

,but nevertheless each

of these screeching persons has an Object at whichhe looks intently while he parades about. ThisObject is a line or stick of Japanese characters

,for

which he must find the appropriate types . It issomething of a job to find all these

,for to print even

a four-page paper in Japan upwards of five thousanddifferent characters are used . These require manyfonts

,which are crowded into a small space

,that

there may be as l ittle travell ing as possible.The “ devil ” goes about these fonts with a waltzing motion

,there are so many corners to turn

,and

always with his eyes fixed on his stick,as though it

were a sacred relic. Indeed, to the stranger in thestreet below who looks up through the long windowswhich reach from floor to ceiling, it might seemthat a religious dance was going on , and that thedevotees were wrought well up to the frenzy point.On going inside one finds an old man sitting in a

corner reading copy, and cutting it into strips withwhat looks at first glance like a pair of sugar-tongs

,

but which are really shears . AS each slip falls,a

devil grabs it and starts o ff on his pilgrimagesinging at the top of his voice the names of thecharacters he seeks . He has to pronounce the nameof each character aloud in order to know what it is,for he understands by hearing rather than by seeing,


at him,ready to be thrust into him behind his back

at any moment, the editor has evolved into a manSkilled in the art Of saying nothing

,or

,at least

,what

reads l ike nothing to the uninitiated . He is a marve lat double entcna

’ro. But with all his cleverness he

is caught so often that he has become inventive,and

has devised artifices whereby he has hoped to escape.

The most successful of these was the dummy orprison editor

,

” as he was known in the ' Orientalsanctum . This functionary had an easy time . Hehad nothing to do on the paper

,never wrote a l ine

,

but when those who didlwrite said anything that the

censor judged might mean something,and the paper

was suspended,the prison editor stepped forward

,

bowed low,and said

,

“ What augustly must be,pro

bably augustly must be .

” Then he trotted Off toprison . This scheme worked well for a long time

,

but after a while the censor demanded that theprincipal three men connected with the paper shouldgo to the “ honourable jail .” Three dummies weremore than any paper could afford to maintain

,and

so there are no proxies now.

But the remarkable thing about these papers isnot that they are so meagre in every department

,

but that they exist. The first Japanese newspaperwas published in 1872, by John Black , an Englishman

,who founded the N z

'

J J /zz'

n Skz'

nj z'

S k i . Beforethat there had been only occasional terror Sheetswhich the “ yomi uri (the native chapmen)hawkedabout after a particularly bloody murder

,or a catas

trophe, such as a great fire, a flood , or an earthquake.Black’s paper was followed by others

,among them

THE CENSOR AND THE CRAFTY EDITOR 1 17

the Kwampo or Official Gazette ; the Tokio Skim/70

and the Koka i,semi-Official ; the M a i N icki Sk imkan

,

the Yomi Uri Skimkan , and the Ukin Hocki Skimknn,

all Liberal ; the f in Skimknn and the N inkin Skimkan,

Radical the N ikon and the Cknsci N zybpo, Conservative and anti-foreign ; the Fuzakn Gwako

,an

interesting illustrated record of manners and customsand the M ara M ara

, a comic paper inspired original lyby P anck . There are also prominent the CkagzcaiSkiog io S kimpo, a commercial daily ; the j ij i S inSkimpo, Imperial ; the Tokio N ick i-N icki—Skimkun ;and in Osaka the A saki (M orn ing S an) and theM a inicki , which are read widely in the south of Japan .

The Japanese reporter makes about as muchmoney as the Japanese pol iceman— that is

,about

twelve shill ings a month . In Tokio some o f themmake more

,and in the smaller towns they make

as little as eight shillings a month,but twelve

Shill ings is a fair average. They are not sent out onregular assignments as a rule

,but are given a roving

commission . The editor tells them to get news,real

news if there is any,but to get news ; and they never

return empty-handed . A good news-gatherer is rareamong them

,but the fakir is plentiful enough and

really clever. Interviewing can hardly be said to bepopular. The people do not understand it and donot like it. Japan is esoteric, and doesn

’t tell whatit knows if it can help itself. Still, there are interviews in Japanese papers . Politicians have themselves interviewed occasional ly, and

“ globe-trottersusually submit.A l l the papers use the written language

,wh ich


differs from the spoken language both in its grammarand in its vocabulary. M r. Chamberlain says thatthe Japanese are stil l in the condition of Europeansof the twelfth century : “ They do not write as theyspeak. A man may know the spoken languagethoroughly, and yet not be able to understand thedaily paper when it is read aloud

,nor even the note

he has just asked his native clerk in his office towrite and to send up to the house

,announcing that he

will take up a friend to tiffin.

’

Speeches are taken down in shorthand,but are

almost always translated into the written languagebefore they are printed. The one exception to therule is in the Record of Parliament speeches

,wherein

the words are published j ust as they were uttered.

When this Record first appeared the rural memberswere fi lled with consternation

,for there they saw

he ld up to the public eye all their pecul iarities o fprovincial dialect. Old men as some of them were,they got themselves teachers and set about learningto speak like townsfolk .

This Record is the beginning of a tremendousreform which students hope will lead to the disuseof the written language

,first in newspapers

,and

finally in books as well. For the spoken languageis the l iving language, the language of the people.With the present Parl iament a new order of thingswill be established in Japan

,and the freedom of the

press must follow in due course. M inisters of Stateincline to think that the time is almost come. Butit is well to remember that while the present laws arecruelly severe, as j udged by Western nations, they

CHAPTER XV

BOBBY

N our visits to the honourable editor in theaugust jail we saw much o f Junsa, the police

Offi cer. We liked him . So do all foreigners .This is natural , for the Japanese Bobby is a gentleman by birth

,a model of courteous dignity and a

good fighter. I n consideration of these qual ificationsthe Government gives him six yen a month

,or about

twelve shill ings . He is a gentleman,because he

comes from the highest of the social grades— thesamurai—and until 187 1 was a military retainer of adaimiyo, as the feudal lords were called who ruledover the provinces of Japan . He was born to theuse of the Sword

,and even now, except in seaports,

it is his weapon as well as his badge Of O ffice,though

rarely is he compelled to use it.Samurai

,according to the dictionaries

,means

military class,

” “ warriors,or “ gentry.

”Recently

the Chinese word “ shizoku, of precisely the samemeaning

,has come into vogue, why, no one knows ,

for it adds nothing to the S ignificance Of the idea.

The samurai l ived in the daimiyo’

s castle,and received

annually an allowance of so many koku of rice,120

A SAMURA I W’

ITH PR ISONE R


augustly condescend to accompany his captor to thepolice-station .

The policeman always says,“ Go men nasai

(“ August pardon and the culprit

,as he

stands patiently to be woven in,replies

,

“ Do itashimashite ” Oh, don

’t mention When the weaving is over Bobby has the culprit on a string ” and

,

holding one end thereof,escorts him to the station ,

where the captor salutes his chief in military style,and the captive bows low and declares he is mortifiedto be the cause of so much trouble. Both ends o fthe string are heard from

,and the chief then decides

whether to fine or to dismiss,or to hold the offender

for further examination.

Bobby wears a military uniform—white in summerand blue in winter. He always salutes when a foreigner speaks to him

,and will walk a half-mile with

one to show the way. He will not accept a tip. Hisinstincts and the rules of the Police Departmentforbid his do ing so

,and then

,besides

,there is the

Government pay—twelve shill ings a month,on which

he feeds and clothes his family.

He will take charge of a foreigner in search of anhotel

,and will escort h im to the best lodgings to be

had , where he will caution mine host against overcharging the guest. I n the monthly bazaars that areheld in the streets leading to various temples inTokio

,Bobby is ever watchful lest the dealers ask

the foreigner too much for their wares. So vigilantis he that the stranger often makes a better bargainthan a native could.

One of them through clever detective work secured

BOBBY 1 23

over one thousand yen that a native had stolen froma foreigner

,and refused the gift of money that grati

tude prompted. After much persuas ion,however

,he

accepted a kimono,though not before the American

had received special permission from the PoliceDepartment to make the present.I n Yokohama and the other seaports

,where the

policeman does not carry a sabre,he handles his

bil ly ” quite as well as any fore ign policeman. Heis wonderfully dexterous in the use of this as thesabre. Professor Norman

,late of the Imperial Naval

College of Japan,with whom fencing is a hobby

,has

studied fencing Of all sorts in England , France,Germany

,Austria

,Turkey

,Persia

,Siam

,China

,and

Japan . He says that the Japanese pol iceman is themost dexterous swordsman l iving.

Even with his club he wil l enter a drinking placewhere a half-dozen men-o

’-war’s men are having a

rough - and - tumble fight,and arrest them all with

celerity and ease . Jack has a wholesome dread ofthe l ittle man in blue

,and trembles when he sees the

“ billy. I t is an Odd s ight to see him staggering tothe station -house in charge of a man whom it wouldseem he could pack under his arm . I t is l ike an anttaking home a beetle.The entire pol ice force in Japan is under a single

head, with the chief offi ces in Tokio and a subdepartment in each province. The chief is a man Of

extraordinary powers . His officers command suchrespect as only military men enjoy in Europe

,and

the entire system is as efficient,probably

,as can be

f ound in the world to-day.

CHAPTER XV I

PLAYHOUSES , PLAYERS, AND PLAYS

HE Secretary to the Chief of Police,a young

Viscount who spoke English well,and who

had conducted us on our first visit to the august jail,

took us to the theatre one morning,and we spent the

day there. We went Often after that, and on thewest coast brought criticism on our youthful headsby the keenness we displayed in studying the stage.The influence of Count Inouye

’

s garden party,at which

the M ikado was present and saw Danjuro and othergreat actors

,had not reached Etchiu . But we per

sisted in our researches and found out several things .One of the first of our impressions was that a manneeds gymnastic eyes and a laminated throat to bean actor in Japan . The eyes count for more

,how

ever. A good eye-wriggler need not want for aposition

,nor need the owner Of an ind iarubber face,

for making faces is an art with the Japanese stagefolk .

The achievements of these artists are illustratedaccurately by the contorted countenances shown onthe cheap paper fans so plentiful in summer time theworld over. These fan il lustrations, be they ever so

124


Foreign Affairs , gave his famous garden-party in theautumn of 1887, for the purpose of elevating thestage. His Imperial Majesty Mutsu Hito attending,set the seal Of supreme approval upon a professionwhich before that time had been taboo w ith gentlefolk .

The records of the census-taker show the positionof actors under the old régime. This O fficial countedthem

,ip piki, n i hikki, sam biki, etc ., when reckoning

the number Of men in a theatre. That seems harmless enough until it is explained that

,in counting in

Japanese, ichi, ni, san , Shi, go, roku ,” etc. (one, two,

three,four

,five

,six), certain auxiliaries to the numerals

are used, according to the kind of things that arebeing counted For instance

,human beings are

mei or “ nin,and are usually counted “ ichi nin

,

ni nin,san nin

,etc . Flat things

,such as Sheets of

paper,are “ mai ” “ ichi mai, n i mai

,

”etc. ; houses

are ken ”ik ken

,n i ken

,san ken

,

” etc . boats areso is so

,ni so, san etc . ; and living creatures,

except human beings and birds,are hik i ” ip piki,

u i hiki,sam biki

,shi hiki

,

” etc . Actors,therefore

,

came under the general classification of beasts.Until recently the Upper classes kept away from

the theatres or went there only in disguise. But, inspite of this

,good plays were produced and , financially,

at least,the profession prospered . To-day distin

guished actors are rece ived in the homes of personsof noble rank .

The Japanese theatre is the only place left in wh ichone can study the ways of O ld Japan . Though itretains many of the ancient and grotesque traditions

PLAYHOUSES, PLAYERS, AND PLAYS 1 27

of its early days,it is accurate in presenting customs

that else long since would have passed from memory.

I ts language,too

,is formal and archaic, and the in

tonation of the actors almost terrible. You will notfind such language or such voices anywhere o ff thestage. A half minute’s attempt to imitate the soundsthe native actors produce would give a Westernerbronchitis . The throat is contracted , the veins swell ,and the blood seems ready to burst from every porein the tragedian’s face. Then the eyes roll , individu

ally and independently, one up, the other down , oneto the east and the other to the west, or only onegyrates and the other rol ls

,until only the white shows.

The iris disappears entirely. This is done espec ial lywhen the eye-wriggler wishes to demonstrate that heis bold and bad . When you see him you wil l believehe is.The bearing of the actors , cast for k ings and queens ,

is comical . I t brings to m ind descriptions of the oldmirac le plays . To walk l ike ordinary mortals wouldnot do for royalty or for personages of any sort . Theymust strut l ike a German recruit break ing in . I t issometh ing to remember the entrance of a ChineseEmperor as he comes down the aisle through theaud ience. At each step h is foot rises quite to thelevel of his chin , while his revolving eyes appear to betwo inches in diameter.A l l this seems child ish enough to ruin the eff ect

of the most excellent acting, but it does not. Inbattle scenes, particularly, the exaggeration is extreme .

Japanese actors die hard—on the stage . I t is appall ing to see how long they last. They stagger about

,


stil l slashing at each other,after they are Shot as full

of arrows as a porcupine is ful l Of quills . The firstarrow would have done for them anywhere but in thetheatre . Stage blood is over everything ; but theaudience delights in gory scenes

,and the actors must

be an unconscionable time a-dying.

”Arms and

legs are lopped o ff. The wounded rol l about makingterrible grimaces

,and dummy l imbs

,appearing through

the floor,twitch and jerk about the stage in a way

not pleasant to weak nerves .I n place of the calcium with the coloured sl ides

,a

black-hooded mute with a bamboo pole,at the end

of which is a l ighted candle,moves about with much

agil ity and illum ines the chief actor’s countenance bymeans of the sputtering dip. To the stranger thisj et-black elf is rather an attraction in himself and aserious distraction from the play, but after a whilethe spectator grows accustomed to the imp and isobl ivious to his presence, and the actor holds theentire attention .

Another distraction is the orchestra,and a dismal

one it is to the uninitiated . I ts performances shouldhave a chapter to themselves . I t is usual ly at oneend of the stage

,behind a screen, which conceals the

appal ling physiognomies Of the members,but does

not add harmony to the sounds. The “ music and“ singing continue without a pause al l the time thecurtain is up. The songs are indescribable, for thetones are something between the squealing Of a pigand the wail Of a lost soul . I t has a certain fitness

,

however,one discovers after several hearings , especi

ally in the ghost and goblin acts—and during the

I 36 THE HEART OF JAPAN

hawkers of food and drink run about on the rail ingswhile the curtain is down

,o ffering their wares to the

spectators .Smoking goes on all through the performance.

There is no formal ity of dress,nor is it unusual to

see a spectator curl up for a nap to carry him througha portion of the play he does not care for. When anact is ending

,the curtain - man announces it by a

nerve-shattering racket,made with two hard pieces

of wood which he beats together. A s the curtainfalls

,all the children in the place rush for the stage

and have a merry game of tag. Often they crawlbeh ind to see what is going on . No one interferesw ith them nor shows the least annoyance at theirpranks . The stage is theirs until the clatter-mansends the curtain up again .

Queer as Japanese theatrical methods are theyare far ahead of the methods that Obtain in China.

The Chinese theatre is familiar to some extent abroad,

for one may see it wherever there is a Chinese colony,

notably in San Francisco,in New York City

,and in

various places in the colonies ; but the Japanese playhas stayed at home

,though Kawakami and Yakko

came over here after various adventures in the States ,and made a hit in London

,and especially at the

Paris Exposition,where they Showed that a good

Japanese troupe,aided by a clear translation with

intelligible notes,could do exceedingly well . Their

manager knew h is business .At present there is l ittle differentiation in the

foreign mind between things Japanese and Chinese.This annoys the subjects of the M ikado, for they

PLAYHOUSES, PLAYERS, AND PLAYS 1 3 1

are not related to the people they recently conquered .

Neither in blood nor in language is there any connection whatever. In Japan, foreigners enjoy thetheatre ; but in China , hardly. There is no wayof stopping a Chinese play.

“

Once it is fairlystarted it runs until the theatre is burned down ,

or the actors die of Old age. Many Japaneseplays

,however

,are of the same structure and

duration as English plays. Where the theatre isopen al l day the play is broken in two

,and

between the sections a sketch, someth ing l ike acurtain-raiser, fi lls in .

On the Japanese stage dead men are taken O ff

by the attendants . They do not jump up and troto ff in the merry Chinese fash ion . The orchestra inJapan is not al l tomtom , e ither ; nor is it on thestage, m ixed up with the actors. I ndeed

,some of

the performances on the sam isen are exceedinglyc lever and full of l ife . Japanese scenery is wel l-n ighperfect, and the revolving stage, of which the Ch ineseknow nothing

,saves much time .

Recently, too, in Japan , mixed troupes are al lowed .

Men and women may appear on the stage together.This is not so in China

,nor can it be said to be in

great favour as yet in Japan,because the old ideas

are not gone yet. Japanese plays are extremelyreal istic, more so than would be al lowable were bothsexes on the stage together. The appearance ofwomen in companies with men certainly wouldcurtail this realism

,and it is thought by some that

drama would lose thereby.

Since the war the theatre has prospered mightily,


and prices have gone up . Still , eight shill ings is nota great sum to pay for twelve hours’ use of a/ goodbox

,and a chance to see much that is ludicrous but

also much that is adm irable and instructive.One evening Gardner beckoned two of the per

formers to our square. We had a cup of saké withthem and asked them to come to see us the nextday

,N ichiyobi . They did so. In fact the whole

troupe came,so that we had to adjourn to a tea

house not far away where there was more room .

The news that we were entertaining players spread ,and I fear we lost caste sadly

,but we had a

grand time nevertheless . Several of the townsfolkwhom we knew came also

,and though they may

have held an actor in contempt no one would havesuspected it from their actions. They exchangedsaké-cups with the men from the theatre

,played

chess with them,and later

,when the geisha had

arrived,j oined in a sort Of grand march

,which the

professional folk led . There was never such aNichiyobi before in Etchiu,

I will warrant. We feltwe were work ing along the l ines of the distinguishedch ief of the Foreign O ffice.The dismay that came upon us when first we saw

how many the two whom we had invited were,changed rapidly to joy under the stimuli of theoccasion— stimuli

,by the way

,which the master of

the tea-house kept constantly in evidence. We werepleased with our good work .

“ I wish it continuing always,said Okashi. Then

he had a cask of saké set out in the road whereseveral individuals had collected

,and the theatre

CHAPTER XVI I

MUSIC

ES IDES the actors and the plays that westud ied in the theatres

, gaku attracted ourattention . I t was so persistently bad we could nothelp becoming interested . We had some of the

gakunin” at the house one afternoon for a close

inspection .

Okashi San treated them with some consideration,for

,as he said

,the ir fame was great, but Gardner and

I had trouble in keeping up to Okashi’s dignity ofbearing. I do not bel ieve either of us ever had suchanother hour in our l ives. We were ful l of internalcramps through trying not to laugh

,and the pain was

such that it was equally d ifficult to restrain our tears.To sit there in apparent peace, while trying desperately not to do two things so opposite in kind

,was

a strain our nervous systems did not soon recoverfrom .

Gaku is a Japanese word wh ich the dictionariestranslate music.” I f you ever hear any gaku youwill wonder what is the matter with the dictionaries ,and will suspect their trustworth iness ever after

,con

sulting them with hesitancy.

134


the world has known advancing between the parallell ines of dead, and also a tidal-wave ful l of cats , pawing helplessly in the foam and clamouring for succour.Yet al l this pleases the Japanese ear, so that the morediscordant of the gakunin acquire fame and are talkedabout. But the gaku itself never attracts notice. NO

one discusses i t,no one cares who composed it.

Classical gaku is a thousand years old , l ikely twothousand

,for it came over from Ch ina back some

where in the sixth century,and has not grown better

ever since. No one knows how long it afflictedChina before leaving for the Land of the Ris ingSun .

After watch ing our guests we understood how,now

and again,a gakunin dies of heart fai lure or of con

gestion of the brain . The men strained so in squeezing out the uta that their necks swelled and the veinsstood out as large as clothes-l ines . Their eyes werebloodshot

,and their faces a dull brown purple. Each

growled and gagged and yapped until he reachedthe convulsion point. One of the gakunin un l imberedhis neck and thrust it out l ike a chicken reaching fora worm

,and the blood receded and left h is face the

colour of washed-out leather. Then the other d id thesame ; and then they alternated. I felt it would beforesight to order coffins for Gardner and me at once,but I could not speak .

When several gakunin un ite in crime they pay noattention to key or to harmony, for such things donot concern gaku . They do, however, keep commontime together— the only time the Japanese knowanything about. Each S inger strains and exhausts

MUSIC 1 37

himself independently of the others , in whatever way

he can produce most d iscord. Gardner estimatedthat with each word the gakunin squeezed out heexpended enough energy to wind an eight day

clock .

As there is no notation for any but the classical

gaku, all gaku must be handed down by word ofmouth and learned from the l iving teacher. Weegirls sit for hours each day before the instructorusually a woman past the flower of her youth

,no

longer in demand in the tea-houses— and practiseat the “ break,

” the point j ust between the lowerand higher register, where al l the possible raspinessof her l ittle voice can be brought to completedevelopment.A l l Japanese uta are rendered at the “ break .

Th is is a cruel surprise to the foreigner when he firsthears it

,for noth ing further from h is expectations

wel l could be when the da inty maid s its down beforehim

,w ith a W insome sm ile, her samisen resting on

her knee, and her taper fingers playing up and downthe strings . He is utterly unprepared for the seriesof weird , d iscordant notes, which sound more l ike anincantation to “ blue devils than what the interpreterassures you it is—a love-song.

After this attempt to give the reader a susp icionof what gaku is l ike, it need not be a surprise tohear that both Professor Chamberlain and Ko idzumi

Yakumo (Lafcadio Hearn) say that a JapaneseBayreuth is unth inkable. Sti ll there is some hope.

The speak ing voice of the natives is soft and sweet.The vocal organs are al l there

,and the ear does not


appear to be abnormal , for with the violin and thepiano Japanese students studying abroad have donegood work . An effort is making new to build up aschool of foreign music in Tokio .

Those who would like to study the “ music ” ofJapan

,and have not at hand the appalling facilities

Gardner and I enjoyed,cannot do better than get

Mr. Piggatt’

s beautifully i llustrated volume,TkeM us ic

and M us ical Ins truments of j apan. Mr. Piggatt findsin the native instrumental music “ some reflex of thenational grace

,some prettily quaint flashes of melody

and curious phrase repetitions .”

According to Confucius,China had something like

real music once, and Japan probably learned something Of this in early days. Too bad She did notdevelop it. The idea of the man who said “ Let mewrite the songs of a country and I care not whomakes the laws ” is an old one . The great Chinesephilosopher saw the truth in it twenty-four centuries

ago . He said , Harmony has the power to drawheaven downwards towards the earth . I t inspiresmen to love the good and to do their duty. If oneshould desire to know whether a kingdom is wellgoverned , if its morals are good or bad , the qualityof its music Shal l furnish forth the answers.What must a Boxer band be like ?


the best of tonics . It will mend one when anythingails the health. She cures everything, that is to say,but diseases of the heart. These the geisha has beenknown to aggravate . In truth she doesn’t need morethan half a chance to put a heart in a terrible way.

In Japan everyone is always entertaining someone ! Few things happen that do not demand afeast. Consequently the geisha is never out of sightfor long. She appears at the festal place soon afterthe earl iest arrivals

,or about two hours before dinner

is announced . I t is the custom in Japan , for guestscome ahead of time instead of on the minute or al ittle late.The first S ight you have of her is as she bows low

at the threshold,her hands palm down on the floor

before her,and her face pressed close against them .

She says,

“ Om ina sama gomen kudasai,” which

means,Honourable Mr. and Mrs . Everybody

,

august pardon deign.

”Irashai, call out some of

the guests as they look up from the chess boards ortiny packs of hana cards with which they have beenplaying. Irashai means “ welcome

,and the geisha

enter to take possession of the teapots and to “ jolly ”

everyone as they serve the gentle stimulant.Their entrance is not the least bit wobbly

,as one

might think from the performances wherein foreignactresses try to represent the geisha. A s inger’srobes (kimono) are quite too long for any gait likethat. The European stage-folk must have got theirideas of the Japanese foot motions from a study ofnative women dressed in European style, certainlynot by watching Yakko the Entrancing. Japanese


of a shrug and a wriggle the thrush becomes an ightingale.

An assistant binds the robe with a broad sash,tied

in a square knot behind (which, by the way, is theoriginal bustle), and she comes purring among theguests once more

,bearing trays loaded with lacquered

bowls and china cups,containing soups and fish o f

many kinds,until before each guest there is a fair foun

dation for an art museum . Then she brings out hersamisen ,

” a three-stringed,square-headed “ banjo

,

”

and , plucking with her“ bachi ” or “ plectrum

,tunes it

to the weirdest key that sounds were ever known togive. The sad melody of waters beating on a foreignshore as the surf-sprite sings of loneliness—such isthe geisha’s music and her song. AS she plays

,her

younger sister dances . Not as we dance here,nor

as any of the imitation geisha dance. There is l ittlemotion

,but much harmony o f l ine

,as she turns about

and postures and wields her fan so deftly that itseems to hover in the air as if it were a moth circl ingabove a candle-l ight. Her posing tells more clearlythan any words might do the story of her eldersister’s song. I t is a love-story always . I t couldnot be anything else when a geisha sings it. I t isnot “ Chon Kino

,

” however,unless She is a seaport

geisha,and a cheap geisha at that ; for Chon Kino

is sung in the lowest places only,and except in sea

ports there are no low places in the whole Empire .

Chon Kino is for sailors,and men-o f-war’s men ,

whom the natives call “ Damyoureyes San .

” I t issung by a class of girls unknown in Japan beforeforeigners arrived . I ts origin is not Japanese at all .

BLOSSOMS ALWAYS IN BLOOM 143

I t came from the early Dutch, who taught it to theirtemporary wives at Deshima

,Nagasaki . I t is really

part of a game of forfeits, after the manner of“ Simon

says ‘thumbs up .

’ The usual forfeit after “ Yokohama ,Nagasaki

,Hakodate

,hai

,

” is to take o ff one pieceof cloth . This forfeiting continues until there is notanything more to take o ff . Whoever has the moston at the end of the game wins.Hilary Bell is quite right in his opinion of the tea

houses of the seaports and of the geisha who posetherein . He says that those geisha would make agood man blush . But do not think that the genuinegeisha— those of inland Japan—are not as honest andpure-hearted as any woman in the world . I t is amistake to suppose that “ geisha is synonymous foreasy virtue.Geisha danc ing is Often pantomime

,and where a

half-dozen of them dance together they form atheatrical troupe in themselves. They would bedelighted with their counterparts in foreign theatres

,

bIIt they would be amused , too , at the funny differemees. Fluffy hair is not Japanese ; petticoats are notworn under kimono ; high heels would play sadhavoc with the delicate tatami that cover Japanesefloors ; waraj i , or rough straw sandals , are not wornin the house except in the kitchen. (Geisha e ither gobarefoot or in tabi .) Kimono fold round the body withthe left side over and the right S ide under

,unless the

wearer is a corpse. Real geisha never hug each othernor even hold hands—much less kiss. Geisha do notcross their hands over the breast when they bow

,

they bend over as though giving a back for a game


of leapfrog. The hands are pressed against the kneesand the spine is horizontal .And another thing is conspicuous by its absence in

the European imitations. I t would be a sad thingfor the dear l ittle girls if they had not even onesmoke in a whole evening ! Geisha carry pipes ofgold and silver bronze

,with which they enjoy ippuku,

one whiff, from time to time taking a pinch of mildtobacco from the leather pouch each one has sl ippedinto her Obe.Moreover, it would surprise geisha to know that

they could be bought and sold easily,as the foreign

play-writers represent. A geisha is usually indentured to a teacher when she is young, or perhaps theteacher pays the parents for a release, and then adoptsthe child . But even then she is not owned . Hercontract

,if she i s indentured, stipulates a sum on

payment of which she can be released . If she isadopted

,and later runs away and marries

,there is no

legal cause for her recovery. Indeed, she does thisvery thing occasionally. Many a Japanese official ofhigh rank has been proud of such a helpmeet.

CH APTER X IX

SIGNS OF THE TIMES

NE of our amusements as we strolled about thetowns we visited was to study the signs along

the streets. There was human interest in them . Buta few of those we saw were unique. Yet in spite oftheir oddity they are truly signs o f the times ; thereis some history in tell ing how they came to be

,for

they are of the period when Japan was stepping fromher old clothes into her new. Feudalism with itsdaimiyos and military retainers was disappearing, andSO were caste distinctions . The Government had

i st establ ished a system of schools on a GermanAmerican plan

,with much English and much mili

tary drill,and had set al l the youth of the nation

to school together to gain Western knowledge .

Children Of the four classes of society—warriors,

farmers,artisans, and merchants, and even of the

outcast Etta,” met on a common footing for the first

time.Hasami San , the son of Kami San the barber, was

the equal of the son of the samurai,and the barber

was happy in the fact. Kami San knew nothingwhatever of foreign ways. He was of the old régime

,

I o


but he had perfect faith in his Government,and if

Government favoured foreign ways surely they weregood . And this English language

,too

,which all the

schools were teaching,so that no matter where one

went he would hear of the great Peter Parley andhis H istory

,of Lord Macaulay

,and Clive

,and Warren

Hastings,of George Washington and the cherry tree.

Was not Hasami studying about these things everyday in classes side by S ide with gentlefolk ? Surelyhe must put up an Engl ish S ign to Show the worldthat his abode was the home of learning as well asother houses

,even those of great pretensions. His

son should have the job—Hasami San who playedwith the children of fighting-men and of the ownersof many rice-fields

,who knew the characters for

writing E igo —as he called the foreign tongue,and

who even at this moment was in military uniform,

drill ing to become a soldier in the army of the greatM ikado. The barber

’s nose was high .

Kami San talked of these things to his friend HigeSan while Hige was receiving a ha’penny’s worth oftreatment. He had gone entirely over Hige San

’sface with his thin narrow blade, even to the eyelids,and now had hold of his friend’s nose and wasreaming the hair from his nostrils with a tiny gougeshaped razor

,that few but a native barber would dare

to use.“ The times are changing

,he said

,as he rolled

H ige’

s head a little to the right, twirling his gouge,“ and when Hasami has leisure from his studies inthe coming rest days of the school , he shall Show bythe new knowledge that I have the pride to make


general run of Japanese to-day ; such words as literally ” and “ l iterary ” are beyond them

,but he could

draw Characters skilfully,English letters being S imple

compared with the Chinese intricacies that youngsterslearn to write so deftly with a brush .

SO when his father explained the S ign idea to himhe set to work diligently

,and by the time the

holidays were over he had produced an ornamentover his father’s Chinese lettered S ign that fi lled theold man’s heart with joy. I t was in three lines

,which

he printed and shaded beautifully. I t read

BARBER

TO SHAV E BEARD OR TO ORESS

HAIRS WAY .

Kami San was the proudest man in town when hegazed up at the completed work. He gave a dinnerto celebrate the event

,and had all his friends in for

the day. Saké flowed. There was raw fish,boiled

fish,grilled fish

,and cuttle-fish in profusion

,and even

the hardy little fishes that submit to slicing up alive.In the evening he had lanterns all over the front ofhis shop

,with special i llumination for the S ign .

Geisha strummed their samisens and danced andsang

,and the guests had so good a time that many

of them forgot all about going home until Kami Sanawoke them in the morning.

The fame of the S ign spread. Soon it was the envyof every one of Kami San’s brothers in the “ hairsway

,

” and of the tradesfolk generally. Those ofthem who had sons that had learned the “ aye

,bee

,


And another : “ The Genuinely bier buy the healthfor drink .

”

And a third : Of smokes our tobacco is preasureto our Tongue and give the Healthiness to Hersand Hes ! Also

“

A l l People by It.”

These little notices in unexpected places relievedthe monotony of a journey on a dul l day. Theirpassing will leave a void . Some o f them have d isappeared already now that the railway has come

,and

the old Kaido with their inns do little of their formerbusiness . But those in the towns remain , exceptwhere they were

,l ike the language of the Damyour

eyes San,far too frank. The camera has caught

them,and should Kami San and Hasami San be

taken up in a chariot of fire,their work would live.

An “ Etta ” who was once an outcast, but is nowHeimin

,

” that is a member of the great class thatincludes all but Officials and nobles

,expanded under

the radiant announcement over the entrance of h isleather shop

To TRADE HAIR-SKIN SORT SHOP .

An entomologist o f some repute in Yokohama,who suppl ied col lectors of insects and also S ilk raiserswith their seeds

,

” ornamented the front of his placeof business with his name and the words

BUTTERFLY AND WORM MERCHANTS.

(Does the plural imply that this man has beenleading a double l ife ?)

SIGNS OF THE TIMES 151

The man who safeguards against sun and raindeclared the fact publicly as fol lows

A SHOP THE KIND OF PARASOL OR UMBRELLA

AND STICKS,

and either of parasol or of umbrel la and stickshe had great variety.

Japan looked askance at butchers in the early daysOf the new order. Beef and pork were taboo prettywel l al l over the country. Even now it is not easyto get animal food in the smal l villages of the interior,where some Buddhist priests still declare war againstflesh and wine. But medical advice following a cholerascare has had much influence

,so that one may see this

s ign to -day exposed boldly to view over a shop

COWMEAT AND PIGMEAT.

In a country where there has been much raw fish,

especial ly salmon,and not particularly good drainage

until William Kinimond Burton took to teachingit sanitation

,troublesome ailments would occur. To

one of these Mr. Swiftriver had turned his attentionwith success . His S ign read as one straight line

TAPE-WORM SWIFTR IV ER SHOP.

M r. Pinecape, who dealt in coals, took the publicinto his confidence and confessed the secret o f hissuccess. Beneath his name and address are these twolines

HONEST ,IND ISTOR IOUS MAKE THE CONTINUAL PROSPER ITY.


Mr. Seedsmal l,who dealt in so-called temperance

drinks,which the Japanese call gun water because

of the pop, got hold of a dictionary in which some

one had translated the names o f his beverages intoJapanese phonetic equivalents . These Japanesesyllables do not conform with extreme nicety toEnglish sounds

,principally because none of them

ends in a consonant,but always in a vowel

,and none

of them has the sound of “ l ” in it. This is theEnglish part of Seedsmal l’s S ign

RAMUNE SOUDA SASUPRE Z INZINBIYA J INJYAE-L,

which one sees at a glance to mean Lemon Soda ,Sarsaparilla

,Ginger Beer and Ginger Ale.

The brill iancy of official uniforms attracted the

attention of a tailor, and he sought to make businessamongst the men of the army and navy and theGovernment. His S ign read

GOLD TA IL SHOP.

Posterior decoration , apparently, was his speciality.

Another S ign , that of a tobacco merchant on Ginza,the Bond Street of Tokio, was probably the bestknown in the capital for half a dozen years . It wasnot amusing, for it merely declared the maker

’sbrand and where one could find it on sale

,but it

was ubiquitous. The merchant had taken the contract to water the city’s streets from one end to theother on all dry days the year round . The brilliantred carts his cool ies pulled about told everyone that

SIGNS OF THE TIMES 1 53

in the tobacco business Mr. P inemountain of theGinza was supreme.

And so one might go on indefinitely quoting signs,

labels on bottles and cigarette packages , the coverso f books

,and what not

,all of them strange and some

of them incomprehensible, yet all of them signs ofthe e ffort of Old Japan to become New Japan , aneffort that has been triumphant.

CH A PTER X X

BOWS AND BALLOTS

ARDNER and I had the good fortune to be inJapan at the time o f the first election the

country ever had . I t passed off with the greatestdecorum and the absence of anything approachingostentation

,or even excitement, but it was not

without some amusing aspects.

One wonders how the offi cials stand the strain .

E lection inspectors,for instance, must have rubber

backs . They need them , for on voting days theyhave, at the lowest calculation , five hundred andtwenty thousand bows to make, and now the franchisehas been extended they wil l soon have to oj igi five

times as often . That is a great deal of hinge work,and demands elasticity and lubrication

,especially as

oj igi does not mean a mere nod o f the head . To bedone properly

,the body must double at the hips

,

folding after the manner of a two-foot rule . Thetachiainin

,

” therefore,as the inspectors are called

,no

matter how automatic their early train ing may havemade them

,have no easy work on balloting days .

When night comes,and the polls have closed

,they

climb into their j in-riki-shas and go home,to be

154


holdings are not numerous . This accounts in somemeasure for the few voters in Japan at present

,

because the franchise was limited to men at leasttwenty-five years old , who paid direct taxes on landor on incomes o f at least fifteen yen.

As an instance o f a result of the operation of thislaw, Tokio, the capital, with a population ofhas had only 7000 voters, or one to every 285 ofthe inhabitants . A lmost al l of the men entitled tovote have availed themselves of the privilege. Thekikensha,

” or stay-at-homes,” have been rare when

compared to those in some of the elections here inEngland .

Voting is a semi-private,semi-publ ic act

,performed

with much solemnity and no disorder. No onebesides the voter and the inspectors is allowed inthe poll ing booth while the function is in progress .The inspectors are the Mayor

,or the he

’

adman of thedistrict, and two or four other men chosen by him .

They may be all of the same political faith,and , if

incl ined to do so,could manipulate the ballots to

their own advantage materially. The law says nothing about bi-partisan Inspection Boards .Another opportunity these ofli cials have to help

their friends along is in advising the voters how tovote. They may even fi l l out the ballot for him , ifhe does not wish to do it himself. H is educationmay not extend to Chinese characters

,and not caring

to use the humble syl labic form , he begs the inspectors ,with many oj igi, to do the names of the candidates forhim in Chinese.The ballot-box is almost an idol in the eyes o f the

Bows AND BALLOTS 157

newly enfranchised natives. Indeed, they approachit with a reverence beyond that accorded to thetemple images of Buddha . They are used toBuddha’s images

,but the ballot-box is stil l mysteri

ous . In the eyes of the older natives it is a fearfulmatter for a private c itizen to take it upon himself tomake suggestions to the Government. Indeed

,it is

a manifestation of effrontery which in former dayswould have been punished by death, not only of thepresumptuous citizen but often of his entire family. A

ballot is certainly a suggestion,and so the old men

stand in awe of it.

CHAPTER XX I

THE FLOWERS OF TOKIO

T rained fire one night when we were in thecapital . The air was full of flying shingles all

ablaze. A beautiful sight to those with tile roofsover them

,but hardly so if one were under thatch .

“ Tokio no hana,

” said Okashi, who had appearedthe day before to ascertain our whereabouts. Translated literally

,

“ Tokio no hana ” means “ Tokio’sflower

,

” translated freely,it means “ fire. Fire Is

the flower of Tokio. Any Japanese carpenter wil ltell you that

,and the bigger the hana is the better

he l ikes it,for the more work there wil l be for

him .

The carpenter ranks high in the artisan class,and

in the popular mind Daiku San , as he is called, isstil l next to samurai, above the farmer and far abovethe merchant. He is therefore an important man,and when he is happy it is well to rejoice with him .

Do not be vexed if you find him purring at yourfront gate as you rush out to notify the nearestpoliceman that your house is on fire . Rather tel lhim where the saké is

,and beg him to help himself158


sand is a conflagration in the M ikado’s Empire

,and

a thousand make only a small one.Bishop Williams of the American Episcopal Church

looked out of his study window one pleasant eveningwatching a fire two miles away

,and then retired to

dream that the inevitable festivities of the morrowwere interfering with his mission services . Threehours later his boy aroused him with the words

,

Conflagration’

s wrath encroaches precipitately,

” andthe good Bishop escaped in a robe not prescribed bycanon. His dreams were all too true . Eighteenthousand houses disappeared in smoke

,and Tokio was

on a spree for two weeks. The greatest fire of all wasaway back in 1557, when over one hundred thousandpeople lost their l ives.Houses in Japan

,however, signify less than in

England. They are really roofs on pegs. The wallsare sliding doors—“ amado ” on the ou tside

,along

the outer edge of the engawa or verandahs ; shoj ialong the inner edge, which shut o ff the engawa fromthe l iving-rooms ; and

“ karakami” or fusuma. Al l

these can be l ifted out of their grooves easily andcarried o ff . Even the tatami are not fastened down ,and they can be hurried away if there is a half-hour’swarning.

A l l but the poorest houses have “ kura, allegedfire-proof buildings, near at hand , into which everything o f value may be stored away. These kura areof mud

,plaster

,and tile

,and look to be impervious

to heat ; but the radiance of“ Tokio no hana ” is

often too much for them ,and they crumble into

dust.


improved system of waterworks in Tokio,and with

hydrants and better engines “ Tokio no hana maysome day be a legend only.

At present,however

,it flourishes

,and is taken as

a guarantee of joyous times—a truthful herald ofprosperity.

CH APTER XX I I

IN THE KINDERGARTEN DAYS

UR l ife on the west coast,especially when we

were among the mountains with the Notofolk (most of whom had never seen a foreigner),helped us to understand what Japan had been

,and

to appreciate the gigantic work She has accomplishedin recent years. The difference between the Japanof to-day and that of two-score years ago astound sone. She has done in forty years much that othernations have been four hundred in accomplishing.

Her system for this accomplishment was marvellous .She had

,for instance

,the greatest kindergarten that

ever was,greater than ever will be again probably.

I t was a kindergarten that included a whole nationboth young folk and old

,but chiefly it was for

those who had attained their growth .

This kindergarten for grown - ups was unique.

What other country in the world ever reorgan isedits “ Society ” over night

,and ordered “

everybodyas was anybody ” to begin living on an entirely new

plan at once ? That is practically what Japan did .

She was just emerging from feudalism,the feudalism

of the Far East,which represented a social order

163


developed during centuries in which the outsideworld was shut away by laws of extraordinarystringency. Then foreign powers demanded treatyrights . Japan awoke. The civilisation of the Westfascinated her as she opened her eyes after her longrest

,and she determined to win for herself a place

in the first rank of the nations of the world. Shehas been accomplishing her purpose

,to the wonder

and admiration of all .To understand how much she has done

,one must

consider what she was some thirty-five years ago, andcompare her condition then with her condition now.

She was as feudal in 1870 as Europe was in 1500. Shecould not then find entrance to the comity of nations.Now she is a world power. Thirty years ago Japanknew practically nothing of Western customs , thoughshe had a most elaborate ceremonial , one that provides for al l possible emergencies of her own socialconditions .Many of these ceremonies were of great dignity,

impressiveness,and even beauty

,but they were quite

out of harmony with European customs,and she

decided to throw all overboard and to start again ,to forget in a day all She knew of that formalpicturesqueness which a thousand years had beendeveloping. The samurai , or gentleman, laid asidehis swords

,those symbols of the spirit of Old Japan,

which he held dearer than any price in gold couldpurchase ; he gave up his silken robes ; cut o ff

his queue ; let the hair grow on the crown of hishead

,and put himself into pantaloons and a frock

coat.


much that was joyous,and a little, necessarily, that

on the surface was ridiculous .Government had established its gigantic kindergarten (and in Japan, the land of topsy-turvy, akindergarten for men and women is not a contradic

tion), it'

had brought foreign instructors from theworld over

,in each department

,and had sent a

steady stream of students abroad to study inAmerica and Europe. As these students returned,the Government dropped o ff the foreigners

,until

few indeed are in Government employ to-daythough many are l iving comfortably at home onpensions after twenty years of service in the Landof the R ising Sun . Japan owes them much, butthere is gratitude on both sides .The Kobusho

,

” or Board of Public Works,which

went out of existence in 1885, had charge of bringing in whatever Japan wished from the world outside.Marquis I to

,often Prime M inister

,had charge of the

Kobusho in early days,and Viscount Hayashi

,new

M inister P lenipotentiary at the Court of St. James,

was I to’s right -hand man . The work gave themgrand opportunity for learning foreign businessmethods

,but the clerks did not carry out our

instructions as to orders going abroad quite as aclerk in an English office would . One order to theKobusho

’

s London agent read as follows

Urgent. Send to Tokio at once as follows

1 Professor of E lectrical Science.1 Do. M ining.

2 Blast Furnaces .

IN THE KINDERGARTEN DAYS 167

And in due course the London agent forwardedan invoice declaring that he had sent out forYokohama

,Japan

,by steamer M ara , four items

as per order, to wit

1 Professor of E lectrical Sc ience.1 Do. M ining.

2 Blast Furnaces.

Both of the learned companions of the blastfurnaces are in England now. They did wel l byJapan

,far better than the furnaces, which became

part of a steel plant that cost the countryyen and came to nought.The Kobusho was a busy place. I ts duty was to

furnish the stuff—mental , moral, and physical—forequipping some to peoplewith a bran new civilisation . I t went in strongfor scientists. I t imported al l the kinds therewere. Tokio was as a white ant-hill. Engineersswarmed over the city and the country round.

Government contemplated a minute survey of theEmpire

,and bought a ful l equipment for a splendid

surveyor - general’s ofli ce in the capital,together

with a great number of instruments for the surveying parties . The temporary office was of wood

,

and there a large corps of engineers worked for ayear or 80 . Government had engaged them for sixyears, or until the job should be over. I t foundthe work difficult and expensive. One night theoff ice burned down and its contents went up insmoke. To get out new materials and then beginall over again “ would be a great bother

,

” said the


Kobusho , so Government thanked the engineerskindly for their work

,paid them in ful l for six years

,

and they returned to their respective countries.The Government scheme of Europeanisation included cooking in its kindergarten course. I t encouraged beefsteak and rice curry and bottled beer. Thisgave rise to a unique lot of foreign signs and labe ls

,

such as “ Bottled by Pale A le 8: Co on an imitationof a famous English stamp. Over one shop wasthis : Rendezvous pour la Garde Imperiale

,sale for

a plat of food,sale for a glass of wine.” Not far from

this was this combination : “ Literary Coffee Housecafe de Billiard .

”

(Bill iards, called“ Tamasuki

,

” is adel ight to the Japanese

,who are expert players .)

Another sign was : A Sole Manufacturer of Confection and another

,though not referring to food

,was

“ Iron Foundry -it was over the gateway of an EyeInfirmary. Basil Hall Chamberlain, in his del ightfulTkings j apanese, has given many more.Some o f the signs that one used to see in Nagasaki

,

an English publisher would not venture to print forsale . Nagasaki is a seaport

,the only kind of place

in Japan that possesses dives,

” and these dives statedtheir business frankly in language the dive keepershad learned from sailors . These keepers had visitingcards

,equally frank

,which they distributed smilingly.

With such misunderstandings of what the enviedEuropeans held to be proper, as wel l as what theyheld to be improper

,were other misapprehensions .

A not unnatural digression from a’e rigour was to

ladle out soup into finger-bowls . Finger-bowls are

much the shape of the pretty lacquered cups in which


belonging to the Colonisation Bureau in Sappuro , onthe northern island of Yezo

,the young women early

learned to wonder at the ways of foreigners . Themistress of the dormitories made each drink a mixtureof egg and claret

,like the American claret-flip, every

night before retiring. The girls did not l ike it, but“ no flip no futon was the order

,and up so far north

as Sappuro futon are desirable.With the coming of the railways and the trams

there were many things for the kindergartener tolearn . One was time. They had had the mostindefinite appreciation of that. I t was odd to themthat trains wou1d not wait

,that would not do well

enough for the 1 or that the engineer could be soabsurd as to start up at exactly. To the nativemind

,

“exactly ” did not mean “

exactly exactly,

” itmeant approximately

,that is to within thirty minutes

or an hour,or on the same morning or afternoon .

The trams,too

,were disobliging. They kept to a

regular route,and would not diverge for those who

wished to do a little shopping a quarter of a mile orso round this turning or round that. The guards hada hard time of it trying to explain clearly that a tramwas di fferent from a j in-riki-sha. Guards at therailway stations had their troubles also. The nativespersisted in leaving their clogs outside just as theydid when entering a house. It was a great botherfor the guard to get all the shoes into the coachesbefore the train started. He could not pretend tosort them

,and pairs that should have gone half-way

only often went to the end of the l ine.AS soon as the dress-suit and the frock-coat had

IN THE KINDERGARTEN DAYS 17 1

established themselves in favour, along with thewhite gloves

,which for some time all officials were to

their respective bureaus in the morning, they becameimperative . A certain General who chanced to be inTokio at the time of the M ikado’s ChrysanthemumShow at Akusaka learned the value in which theJapanese held the frock-coat. The Show is by far themost wonderful of its kind in the world

,one of the

single plants there has over six hundred blossoms growing on it. The General loved flowers

,and admired

the kiku,as the Japanese call the Chrysanthemums .

He had an invitation to go to the Show, but his frockcoat was in Yokohama and there was no time to getit. Without one, nobody not possessing wings couldget in

,and even then he would not be allowed to

alight. So the General,rather a large man

,borrowed

a coat from one of the Japanese officials at theForeign Ofl’Ice. Thus arrayed he was a picture toremember. The only wonder greater than that theGeneral got into that coat is that he was able to getout. But he saw the flowers. After that

,so long as

he stayed in Japan,he would not go across the road

unless he had a frock-coat ready for emergencies .The Empress set the new fashion for women , and

appeared at Chirini’s Circus in magnificent “

yo fuku ,

”

or foreign dress,which she had ordered from Berlin.

She had also a German Master of Ceremonies toeducate the Court in the art of how to behave thoughuncomfortable . Corsets and al l came with the newapparel

,and it was rather difficult at first to persuade

the wearers to use them right side up, the Japanesefigure being somewhat of an inversion.


With foreign dress came the idea that a womanwas an individual rather than merely a thing, andthat she should receive consideration. In her nativekimono She had always stepped aside that the men

might go first. Men had gone first always in allthings . But with the aid of the yo fuku Japan wasable to il lustrate the idea that women should takeprecedence. Chivalry depended on the petticoat, andas chivalry was a fine thing in theWest, the Japanesemust have it. So in skirts the Japanese lady led theway

,and received attentions that bewildered her, for

never before had she spoken to a man other than herhusband except at the distance of several mats, andwith the greatest possible formality.

She had dancing lessons,too

,for the Government

saw that balls were an institution in al l foreigncapitals, and naturally it wished Japan

’s representatives to be prepared to enjoy them in the properSpirit. A l l the Cabinet M inisters

, the Governor ofTokio

,and the great swells generally

, each gave a ballevery winter

,and the officials went as part of their

duty,but it was hard work . The floors of the ball

room were so slippery. I t was much more fun totake a run and to slide across them as boys go on theice than to spin about top fashion

,holding a woman

round the waist for the first time and dancing withher publicly. It must have been strange for a gentleman of Japan who had never so much as touched awoman’s hand before in his l ife

,or had never paid

even a formal cal l on women - folk . Except withgeisha at some dinner or other, he had never hadconversation with a woman other than members of


little of the M ikado except as an invisible god . Theyknew the Shogun was the real ruler, though theynever saw him either

,for when he travel led along any

street or any road the advance guard closed allhouses

,ordered everyone to go within and bow to

the ground , and forbade so much as peeping. Theretainers would have cut down anyone whom theyhad so much as suspected of looking out. Shogunshad ruled as Mayors of the Palace

,and Prime

M inisters and Generaliss imos,since the middle of

the twelfth century, but an historian discovered thatformerly the M ikado had ruled actually as wel l astheoretically. This, with the rise of Shintoism ,

the

ancient mythological cult of Japan,jealousy of the

Tokugawa family, who held the Shogunate from 1603

to 1867, and the arrival of the foreigners who camein after Commodore Perry had made a treaty withthe Shogun in 1854 , brought about a revolution whichended in the disappearance of the Shoguns for goodand all

,and the reappearance of the M ikado after an

invisibility of seven centuries.When

,so to speak

,the Japanese was in a baby

carriage himself,he developed this device for infants

into the j in-riki-sha,which has now come to be the

ordinary means of locomotion in the chief cities o f

the Far East,in China

,Straits Settlements , India,

and even Africa. He has taught the whole worlddecoration. Wherever one goes now, Japanese art isin evidence . How innumerable are the homes it hashelped to beautify ! Professor Chamberlain saysIn the days before Japanese art became known toEurope

,people then used to consider it es sential to

IN THE KINDERGARTEN DAYS 175

have the patterns on plates, cushions, and what not ,arranged with geometrical accuracy. If on the righthand there was a Cupid looking to the left, then on

the left hand there must be a Cupid of exactly thesame size looking to the right, and the chief featureof the design was invariably in the exact centre .

The Japanese artisan artists have shown us that thismechanical symmetry does not make for beauty.

They have taught us the charm of irregularity, andif the world owe them but this one lesson, Japanmay yet be proud of what she has accomplished .

”

Not only are the Japanese proficient in diplomacyand in statecraft, but they have great scientific attainments too . They lead the world far and away inbiology . They are in the very first rank of chemists,and their schools have some features that other seatsof learning lack. There is

,for instance

,in the “ Dai

Gakko,

” or Imperial University,in Tokio

,a Chair of

Seismology and a Chair of Sanitary Engineering.

They have some of the largest battleships afloat ; anarmy that is ready the moment it is needed , with thebest commissariat and hospital corps the world hasever seen and

,to crown all

,England and Japan now

are partners.

NOTE.-A friend calls my attention to one of New Japan

’

s first

attempts to be like ( l)Europeans. On the introduction o f telegraphy,she wished to cut down the magn ificent rows o f Cryptomeria that are

the glory of the ancient roadways, and to put up in their stead telegraph

poles.

CHAPTER XX I I I

IN TRAD E

T was odd to us that the “shraff Should be in

variably Chinese,but he was . Whenever we

had occasion to call at a foreign counting-house inYokohama

,Nagasaki

,Kobe

,or wherever it might be

,

the man that counted the money was a long-queuedCelestial in flowing robes, never a Short—haired , frockcoated subject of the M ikado. And this in Japanwhere the natives had held al l China in contemptuntil they whipped her so soundly and speedily thatthe contempt changed into pity !

“ Why is it ? ” asked Gardner. “ Can’t Japanesecount ? ”

Okashi said they could count well enough, but thatJapanese gentlemen (samurai like himsel f)abhorredthe touch of money

,and no other class could be

trusted to count it honestly.

We knew that our precious landlord’s disl ike of themedium of exchange would not allow money toremain near him if there were any possible way ofgetting rid of it, but we did not know that he couldcount. There was truth in what he said , however .

His statement merely lacked comprehensiveness.176


ceived word from home that the flannel was on the

way.

Yes,’ he said but now I do not wish flannel I

need cows.’

You do not mean cows instead of flannel ? ’

Yes .

’

But I have ordered the flannel . I t is already onthe way. I t is too late to change.’

“ ‘Probably that may be so,

’ he replied,

‘but as Ido not desire the flannel I hope you will obtain cowsinstead .

’

“ I did not order cows,but the flannel came

promptly enough. I have part of it stil l . The restI sold at a loss of 25 per cent. to the very man I hadordered it for in the first place. N0 one else wouldtouch it. To al l that I said to him he only answered,Shikataga nai,

’ which means doing way is not,

’—or,

the joke is on you .

’ I t was a good lesson for me,

just what I needed to fit me for business over here.Why

,my present partner has been here twenty-five

years and says he hasn’t found a man he can trustyet— that is

,among the natives.

Here’s a good instance,right here in your Tkings

j apanese. I knew the parties,and Professor Chamber

lain has stated the case accurately.

“ Kimura is rich. He used to be the manager ofthe Yokohama Specie Bank . When this happened hewas a director

,and even now he is President of the

Yokohama Guild . So you can see his standing isgood . Just let me read you this . I t is a fairsample

“ ‘May 29 , 1894 . Messrs . Cornes Co. of Yoko

IN TRADE 179

hama,sold to Mr. Kimura Reimon , for del ivering in

September and October,one hundred bales of yarn

,

Purple Hokuroku” qual ity

,but to be marked with

a red ticket instead of a purple. On arrival of thegoods

,Mr. Kimura refused to take delivery on the

plea of difference of colour in the ticket. Thesetickets are the ordinary marks the trade uses indistinguishing grades and qual ities . Finding itimpossible to get him to make a settlement of anyk ind

,Messrs . Cornes Co. decided to take the ease

into court ; but, before doing so, they, for reasonspeculiar to this country

,placed a statement of the

dispute before the Yarn Traders’ Guild of Yokohama. This body replied that another applicationshould be made to the firm by Mr. Kimura

,failing

which it would endeavour to bring the two partiestogether

,and

,failing that again

,the case might be

fi led . Upon this Mr. Kimura was again approached .

He asked for time to consider, and was given untilMarch 10. The reply having been received byMarch 15, and Messrs . Cornes being anxious toavoid l itigation

,they requested the personal inter

vention of three prominent members of the Guild .

But Mr. Kimura refused even to discuss the matterwith them . The case was at length taken into court .

After several hearings, beginning on May 16,

before Judge Akiyama and two assistants, judgment was postponed at the request of defendant til lJuly 9 . Three days before this term ,

namely onJuly 6

,the standing committee of the Guild waited

on the foreign firm to inform them that unless theyagreed to withdraw the su it and accept as a settle


ment the del ivery of thirty-five bales (cancell ing thesale of the remaining S ixty-five bales) at contractprice

,and waive all charges

,no dealer wou ld be allowed

to cal l at tkeir ofi ce. Messrs . Cornes declined theseterms

,but on the following day (July 7)offered to

withdraw the suit, provided Mr. Kimura would takedelivery of fifty bales at contract price, and pay halfinterest and fire assurance. These offers the Guilddeclined . Judgment was delivered on July 9 to thefol lowing effect z

Defendant to take del ivery of the hundred bales ,and to pay the sum of together withinsurance interest and go -downrent (81 minus ninety days usually al lowed pending delivery.

’

On J uly 18 a general meeting of the YokohamaGuild was held

,with the result that Mr. Kimura’s

action was fully indorsed,and Messrs . Cornes con

demned to a boycott in which the dealers in Tokio,Nagoya

,and other important towns were to be asked

to join . The next incident was a visit to Messrs.Cornes by representatives of the Tokio Guild , whocame to say that they were determined to settle thedispute

,and that unless their arbitration were accepted

they would join the boycott. Messrs . Cornes havingpreviously ascertained from an eminent Japaneselawyer that Japanese law could afford them no

redress,were compelled to accept the Tokio Guild’s

offer of arbitration , and were thereupon informedthat M r. Kimura would take del ivery within sixtydays of the hundred bales at $935 per picul , theforeign firm to pay their own legal expenses. This

,


to trade with foreigners they sold us many worthlessthings . We could not judge values of imports in theearly days o f foreign intercourse. We trusted foreignmerchants and they took advantage of our ignorance .

Now they are suffering from the bad examples theyset us.I t is probably true that those samurai who tried to

be merchants after the break up of the feudal systemwere soon in a bad way. They trusted foreign agentsimpl icitly

,with sad results. I t was not only the

foreigner,however. Merchants of their own race

treated them badly. There have been many queerinstances of these business methods. Some of themShow that a native can “ do another native ascomplacently as he can do a foreigner. One lagerbeer brewing company, for instance, which does an

“

enormous business,abstained a long time from paying

dividends because it needed the money for bottleswhich had to be imported. The directors, as individuals , bought the bottles and sold them to thecompany. The stock-holders paid

,and the individual

directors pocketed the profits,which quite ate up all

chance for dividends . A native told us that thebottlebusiness was very pleasant, the net gain beingabout 600 per cent.Another lot of d irectors who were pretty well under

the control of one of the wealthy merchants put upa hat factory under American supervision , and fittedit with the best English machinery. The merchant

received £5, 105. for every £ 1 he spent for themachinery

,—so the superintendent told us . The

merchant had the advantage of knowing what

IN TRADE 183

machinery was worth, while the stock holders towhom he sold it had no idea at all . Business wasdull on account of the low duty on imported hats

,so

the merchant made less money than he had hoped .

He must devise a plan . What his plan was noneexcept himself knows

,but one night the factory

burned down .

The fire was a good example of Tokio no hana,

for the whole force of working men and women hada grand picnic by the ruins the next day. Therewas no l imit to the saké and the rice and fish

,and

other things that Japanese picnickers are fond of.Then the directors ordered a new set of machinesfrom England

,and charged the company seven

prices instead of five .

Japanese courts recognise the lack of businesssense and training on the part of those who appearbefore them

,and deal paternally with the contestants.

When a breach of contract comes up for investigation,

the interested parties go over the contracts and agreements carefully and explain every item to the bestof their ability. Then the court studies the conditions under which the contract would needs becarried out if the contractor should go on with hiswork . If it finds no obstacle in the way of fulfi lment,it decides against the contractor ; but if it finds thecontractor had miscalculated

,and would lose money

were he to go on with the work , it decides for him, asmanifestly it would be a hardship were he forced towork without profit.The court communicates with the man who let the

contract,saying

,Oki no doku Sama and Shikata


better chanoe. This is a method of procedure hardly

cal cul amd to develop bus ines acumen or the conmge

that is so o f ten neoee sary for su ccess fii l en terpris e.

Feuda lism had much to do wi th the di sgraoe at

taching to trade—feu dalism and the po licy o f isolation,

in view. He believed they were ad vance agents of

Spain and PortugaL and,being adveI-se to having

cleared the connfi y o f Chfi sfi ang though only af ter

fmious pa secufim and then shnt it up One Dutch

arrival in 1853.

known of foreign busines ways she namrally forgot ,

whil e at the same time the class organis ation of

of the sod al ladder. He had almost no rights at all .

Po lifi m lly he was a ciplrm'. He did not venture to

a l l his li fe his own. H is wi t and his cunn ing were

all he oould depend upon. If he had a d ispute with

be one les s merchant for tbe nex t oensus to report ;


consuls in various parts of the world,and really sup

plement their work.

“ This has helped us to develop our manufactureson paying lines , and has already increased the nation

’swealth. With every recommendation from thesesources the M inister has coupled the strongest possible plea for fair and honourable commercial deal ing,and the various Chambers are awaking to the factthat credit is a most desirable asset.”

NOTE .—One of the foreign countries represented by a minister in

Tok io lost prestige w ith the Japanese, because, when the minister’s

period of service had expired and his diplomatic career was at an end ,

he engaged in a commercial enterprise. A Japanese minister couldhave done this w ithout loss of esteem, for the Japanese would say that

his motive was a patriotic desire to develop the resources of his

country. But the min ister in question being a foreigner, it was saidthat he did as he did not for his country

’s sake but for personal reasons,

and was therefore selfish.

CHAPTER XX IV

DIV ING BELLES

T is odd that in a country where woman countsfor so l ittle there Should be some households in

which she rules supreme. There are such in theprovince of Shima

,and we found others on the west

coast.“ Our New Woman would faint with envy if shecould see the way some of her Japanese sisters runthings in their homes

,

” said Gardner in one of hisdiscourses. He was talking to some globe-trottersat the Club Hotel one day. She would realise thatwith al l her bloomers

,cigarettes

,canes

,and masculine

shirt fronts,she is yet so far from her goal that she

could hardly hope to reach it in this life. She’de ither quit l iving or come to Japan .

Yes,I know it sounds a little strange. Mrs . Hugh

Fraser,Sir Edwin Arnold , and Lafcadio Hearn say

that the Japanese woman is the gentlest person in theworld

,and that she is as sweet and charming as she

is mild. Sir Edwin Arnold writes about the ‘threeobediences ’ —‘As a child she obeys her father

,as a

wife she obeys her husband,and as a mother She

obeys her eldest son .

’ That’s true of almost al l the187


women, but had Sir Edwin been with us he mighthave seen something to make another story out of.

“ I first heard of the Japanese New Woman,who

,

by the way,isn’t at all new

,when I was over in Noto

,

that l ittle peninsula on the west coast that juts upinto the Japan Sea.

“ 1 had been knocking about there for a couple ofmonths

,and had lost my identity as a foreigner alto

gether and turned so brown that I was sure I’d neverbleach out again . I l ived in a temple ; and that isa point to remember if you roam off the beatentracks in Japan. Temples are better than hotels.The priests I l ived with were of the Hongwanj i sect.They had wives

,and!their wives could cook. Board

and lodging cost me twelve shillings a month. Inever saw the country inn that could do better.Worshippers from every part of Noto came to this

temple,for it was older than any man could say

,and

famous. Through the good offices of these priests Imade friends in many conditions of l ife. The folk Igrew most interested in were some fisherwomen whocame from a cluster of tiny hamlets down the coast.In travelling by the hill-roads one wouldn’t see as ign of this hamlet

,although one might be only a

s tone’s-throw away. Th is was because it was hiddenunder the cliff .

“ I noticed these women at the temple several times ,but there were never any men with them . Womenfrom other places came with their husbands. Thesewomen didn’t, but they had children who called them‘mama

,

’ so I knew there must be husbands somewhere. They were handsome, with clear skin, bright


Once I remember a man got drunk,and did not

have the dinner ready when his wife came up . She

told her friends,and they pulled him into the sea.

Then they sat on him ,and pushed him down till he

was almost drowned. He was crying GO men nasaiall the time . He wept, and the women laughed—allexcept his wife. She struck his head with her hand,and called him “ dara

,

” which means “ lacking ” orstupid. When they brought him to the beach againthe intoxication was all gone

,and he was humble.

“ ‘People in Japan generally do not know aboutthis place

,

’ continued my friend ;‘a foreigner never

saw it.One day when I was a smal l boy I went with my

mother to sel l shell-fish on Kashima. When we werethere a Ship anchored off the shore. A boat full ofmen with green eyes and white clothes came to land .

They took my mother’s shell-fish and all the pickleson the island . Then they went away. Someone!

said they were Rokoku no hito (Russians). I don’t

know,but they are the only foreigners most of us

have ever seen .

’

Does your mother ever come here ? ’ I asked.

Oh yes ; she is coming to-morrow,and I am

going back with her. Wouldn’t you like to go too ?I f you would condescend to travel in such rudecompany

,and to enter our unworthy hovel, we shall

be honoured greatly.

’

I should be very glad indeed,’ I said . It was

quite too good a chance to lose.The next day his mother came. He said she was

his mother,though She did not look to be thirty

DIV ING BELLES 19 1

years old. She was plump and graceful and merry.

On her back was a boy, her grandson as I learnedafterwards

,j ust past his sixth birthday. She had

carried him sixteen miles that morning. When she

had bowed to us a half-dozen times she took a dip inthe sea

,gliding through the water l ike a seal

,and

then entered the temple.“ Then we all seated ourselves in the guest- room

,

and she nursed the six-year-o ld at her breast .

(Grandmothers do that here in Japan .)“ She was going back that afternoon

,she said .

It will be moonlight, and we can be there by teno’clock

,

’

she explained . I do not l ike to leave thehusband there all alone.’

“ I flattered her a little, and when dinner was servedoffered her my saké cup so often with my profoundestbow that she said she would wait til l morning.

“ She woke us about four o’clock , and by five wewere on our way

,she carrying the child .

Before noon we were in her home. The tide wasout

,so we did not see the women , who were in the

water,and were hidden from view beyond some rocks .

The men were at home doing chores in a shy,sub

missive way. Some were preparing shel l-fish andlaying them on the sandy beach to dry

,while others

were grinding buckwheat flour, of which they wouldmake “ soba

,

” the native substitute for macaroni . Somewere bringing in faggots , and were putting in orderthe square holes that in every peasant’s hut serve as

fireplace,or were burnishing kettles and doing other

odd jobs. No wonder my friend was glad he was apriest.


With the rising of the tide the women came up.

Even the oldest were good - looking. They hadpouches hung to belts about their loins, and in thesethey placed the shel l-fish they found upon thebottom . A ll of the pouches had something in them

,

many of them were full. As each one came out sheemptied her pouch into a common pile on the beach

,

and one of the older women called off the name froma book

,and made a mark opposite. The marks

seemed all alike,so I suppose the women were com

munists . The priest told me that all the villagerswere in one company, and that each member did thebest She could for the good of al l . I f anyone grewlazy there was a penalty

,but it had not been used for

so long he had forgotten what it was.As I stood watching the heap grow

,the priest’s

father came to us, and bowing low,said

,

‘Honourable pardon de ign ! There is absolutely nothingeither to eat or to drink

,but please honourably

condescend to partake.’

“ I followed him into the house,and was just sitting

down to a banquet of many shapes and sizes,the l ike

of which I had never seen before, when there was acommotion outside.

“ ‘Nan deshoka l ’ exclaimed the priest. ‘What’sup Ah , korario (come here). I hurried after him .

There was a luckless man in the midst of a mob ofwomen. He was protesting, and they, talking all atonce

,were heading to the sea

,just l ike the case of

which my friend had told me. The man was ducked ,and then laid out to dry.

Was he drunk ? ’ I asked . Oh no . That woman

CHAPTER XXV

AMONGST THE GODS

IV ING in the temples, as we did during thegreater part of the time we were in Japan, we

grew familiar with the images of the saints and heroesand the gods and goddesses whom the templeshonour. This familiarity did not breed contempt,but gave us a personal interest and a feel ing akinto reverence. Certainly we could reverence some ofthe ideas for which

,in Buddhist minds

,those strange

images stood . The gods had their humorous side,too.

When pious Japanese are ill they rub Binzuru . I fthey are very ill

,they ask the priests to hang a bib

about his neck or to put a cap on him and mitts .Binzuru is the head of the great faith-cure of Japan ;a sort of Buddhist science

,l ike the so-called Christian

science Of America,of which

,indeed

,it might have

been'

anciently the prototype,though the rubbers do

not cal l their rubbing “ science . B llt it is fully equalscientifically to the orisons of the ogygian healers onthe other side of the Pacific

,and its effi cacy is similar.

Binzuru shows the effect of so great faith. Hisnose is gone and his abdomen , his kneecaps also, andthere is a great hollow in his chest. The process of

194


wealth,and of many sects. He is on good terms

with the Kami or Shinto gods and the Hotoke orBuddhist deities . He is more often in the tera,

” orBuddhist temple, however, than in the

“ miya,” the

Shinto temple,for Buddhism is the popular religion

of Japan and receives the Shinto gods into itspantheon with cordial welcome . So in looking forthe Healer, the man with faith and a pain he wouldbe rid of, does not look with much expectancy beyondthe gateway of the miya

,in - shape like that of the

Greek but goes through the tera’s gate with confidence.

We watched a man one day as he approachedBinzuru in al l humil ity and childlike faith . Howgently, almost caressingly, he runs his hand alongthe Healer’s side and then up and down his own !He was badly bent when he came in

,but he walked

away erect and grateful . For him Binzuru is farbetter than a plaster. Just by the man stood awoman. She was well

,but the infant in her arms

had trouble with its eyes. So the mother strokedthe image’s old worn face

,her hand scarce hiding

more than half its eye,and then touched the baby

lids, saying, Namu Amida Butsu ” Behold Amidathe Buddha I t reminds one of Lourdes .Amida is Boundless L ight. He and Binzuru are

great friends . His image is not far away. Hisgoku

,

” or halo,is widespread

,typical of his radiance.

Sometimes it is l ike a great oval screen of gold behindhim

,but his almost certain S ign for recognition is the

position of his hands lying in his lap,the fingers

crossed and the thumb tips barely touching.


wood,which rests on a stand under a white silk

cloth . For centuries this box was the special chargeof a virgin daughter of the M ikado. Even she neversaw the sacred relic

,for as age began to tel l upon the

silken sack she put a new sack on over the old onewithout undoing it. Before she did this, she had tofast three days

,to bathe three times each day

,and

during the ceremony to wear garments of materialfresh from the loom—garments that no one had everworn nor would ever wear again.

A M inister of State lost his l ife for be ing curiousas to the appearance of the apartment wherein theimage of this Imperial ancestor reposes . He pushedaside an intervening curtain with his cane

,and peeped.

A young Government clerk in Tokio,N ishino by

name,hearing of this peep some months later

,went

to I se,to Goku Temple, the scene of the sacrilege,

to confirm the story. Then he returned to Tokioand stabbed the M inister with a kitchen fish-knife

,

so that he d ied . This was Viscount Mori, who hadbeen M inister Plenipotentiary to Washington and toLondon

,and at the time of his death was in the

Imperial Cabinet as head of the Department of

Education .

As affording a glimpse into the Japanese mind,

it is interesting to note that popular sympathy wasaltogether with the murderer

,whom an officer of the

M in ister’s household cut down,striking o ff hi s head

with a S ingle blow of his sabre. The newspapersabused this offi cer, but not a word for the Viscountnor for his family, whom N ishino

’s act had plunged

into grief on the greatest gala day of Japan’s history.

200 THE HEART ..OF JAPAN

whose lap is full of children’s tokens,dolls and bibs

and little caps,the o fferings of mothers whose

children the gods have called . She is Kishi Boj in,Protectress of Children . Often She speaks of hermiraculous conversion . Like St. Paul

,she changed

from an enemy into the friend of a new rel igion .

She had determined to destroy the Buddhists,

“ beingexceedingly mad against them .

” But she turnedinto a dragon

,and gave birth to five hundred children

whom Heaven decreed she should eat—at the rate ofone each day.

Gautama,the Buddha, taking pity, restored her to

womanhood and taught her the Doctrine,whereupon

she entered a convent,and ever since has been the

protectress of those whom formerly she would destroy.

She holds a pomegranate in one hand,which emblem

is her crest.Just over Koj in, the Kitchen god , whom the housewife looks wel l after, are the Sam-bik i-Zaru

,or three

monkey gods. Saru means monkey. In combination w ith other words it is pronounced Zaru . Oneof these gods of the prehensile tai l has his handsover his mouth

,he is the Iwa Zaru or Dumb

Monkey god ; another stops his ears , he is the KitaZaru, Deaf Monkey god ; and the third covers hiseyes

,he is M i-Zaru

,the Blind Monkey god : a good

trinity these, for they refuse to speak evil, to lookupon it

,or to listen to it. Mrs. Grundy does not

stand well with them .

There is an image of Kompira also, who hasespecial care of those who go down into the sea in

ships. Some call him Kotohira. For centuries he

AMONGST THE GODS 201

was a Buddhist pure and simple, and at one time soeager was he to bring mankind to the true faiththat he took on the form of a crocodile with a bodyone thousand feet long

,possessed of one thousand

heads and one thousand arms. Thus arrayed hemade many converts . There was a grand Buddhisttemple in his honour at the foot of Zozu SanShikoku unti l recently. I t dated back nearlytwelve centuries. Thirty years ago the Shintoistscame into power for a l ittle

,and claimed this

temple, saying that Kompira belonged to themfor they had worshipped him since the world began .

So the Government let them have their way. Theytore down nearly al l of the ancient tera and put amiya in its place. But the people throng thereregularly on the tenth and eleventh days of Octobereach year

,just as they did anciently

,for whether

Kompira is Buddhist or Shinto is a small matter intheir eyes ; they love him for himself alone.Monkeys are not the only animals natives reverence

in Japan . There are pink-eyed horses, alive and fat,within their sacred stalls just inside the temple gates .Those who desire grace give these pink-eyed ones ashel l full of beans

,which the attending Doctor of

D ivinity supplies at a ha’penny a shell . Besidesthe horses there are stone foxes

,Imari

,goddesses of

the fruitful rice-fields . Farmers’ wives decorate theseimages with bibs

,and then if the good women have

faith,proper seed

,suffi cient water, and good fertil isers ,

they may expect crops.Another acquaintance of Binzuru’s is the god ofWisdom, Fudo , whose throne appears to be on fire.


Apparently his wisdom has not made him happy,for

his countenance is anything but joyous. He is armedwith a sword in his right hand and a lariat in theother. I t is rumoured that he ropes in the wickedand despatches them . Emma O, s itting opposite,glares quite as fiercely as Awful Wisdom . He isregent of the Buddhist hells, and receives all-comersaccording to their deserts . His attending scribe andreader have kept a record of each soul. The recordis true

,and there is no escape from the sentence that

Emma O pronounces. Tradition says that the regentwas a great Chinese general

,whose love of truth

exceeded every other love,so that he turned his

back upon the throne of the Heavenly Kingdomwhen his legions o ffered it to him, sought out onewhom he believed should have it by right of birth

,

established him , and then retired to the obscurity ofprivate l ife. However this may be

,Emma O is the

patron of many a joss-house the world over,and it is

before his image that Chinese administer their mostsacred oaths and make compacts binding by chopping o ff the heads of cocks.Despite the furious faces of Fudo and

'

Emma 0there is no fear upon the countenances of the sevengods of Luck

,the Shichi Fukuj in, whom Binzuru

looked kindly on before his eyes were rubbed away.

There is the Honest Labour god,Ebisu the fisherman ,

whose name al l drinkers of good beer in Japan mustbe familiar with. He has just caught a noble bream , afish the Japanese call tai.” Next to him is Daikokuwith his bales of rice. He is richer than a Trust.The Tokio folk are laying out a pleasure park in his

AMONGST THE GODS 203

honour, with a grand Daikoku statue, malet and ricebales included

,in the midst thereof. Benten is a

lady,and is musical. She can charm snakes, and

uses one to go about with instead of a motor-car.Fukurokuj i has a long head, and a pet crane with aneck almost as long. Both he and his pet signifylongevity. Bishamon

,with his spear and Pagoda

,in

protective armour l ike unto a battle-ship,is the lucky

god of War. Jurokuj in has the great good fortune toknow the thoughts of an imals . They come to himin perfect trust, for friendship

’s sake. No menagerieshould be without Jorokuj in. Singularly enough

,

Hotei,the seventh god of Luck , who is supposed to

represent good-nature,is stout

,one might say fat

,and

has a high sack of sustenance to lean back against.Of course there are many Shakas in this temple

of gods—images of Gautama,the Buddha

,to whom

existence as he had known it in Far Eastern countrieswas a weariness . Where he journeyed to and fro

,

human vital ity was at low ebb and life a constantstruggle. He sought escape therefrom , and found itin the knowledge which contemplation and purel iving give. Having conquered al l desire

,the

illusions of the world revealed themselves to himand he was ready for N irvana, but he decl ined toenter unti l he had shown the truth to every otherl iving creature and they too had become worthy ofthe great reward . When the others were safely inhe would follow after.The goddess of Mercy has many images

,too. Her

name is Kwannon . She possesses the omnipotentgem nyo-i-rin,

” and has the Twenty-eight Constella


tions to wait on her. Professor Chamberlain likesKwannon

,and knows all about her thousand arms

,

her horse’s head,her eleven faces

,and her wondrous

gem,as well as about the Saikoku Sanju-san Sho,

”

or Thirty-Three Shrines, sacred to her. They are allnear Kiyoto . This is what the Professor discoveredas to their originMany years ago lived a famous Buddhist Abbot,

Tokudo Shonin by name. Suddenly, as the Japanesesay of holy men

,he “ divinely retired —that is

,he

died. He went to the Underworld,where two digni

taries from the court of the regent Emma O met himwith respectful salutations

,and conducted him with

much ceremony to the August Presence.“ I have sent for your Holiness,

” said Emma 0,

because I know from the piety of your life that Imay trust you even as your children upon earth havelearned to trust you . I have an important missionfor you .

Then he told the Abbot of thirty-five places thegoddess of Mercy was interested in particularly

,and

of her labours to save the world. I n her great lovefor mankind she had divided herself into three-andthirty parts or bodies

,and each of these bodies had

become the guardian spirit of one of the Thirty-ThreeHoly Places ; each Place having power to cure oneof the spiritual ills that flesh is heir to .

At present,

” said Emma O,

“ the men and the

women of the world above do not know of theexistence of these P laces . They do evil instead ofgood , and come dropping into hell as rain falls in asudden summer shower. It shall be your work to

CHAPTER XXVI

ON THE EARTHQUAKE PLAN

E were up to dine near the Imperial University in Tokio one evening

,in the beauti

ful puzzle-pathed grounds known as Kaga Yashiki ,where once the Prince of Kaga had his palace. The

house in which we met was lOng and low, all butthe central part

,which had been the Government

Observatory in the early days of the University.

The telescopes had gone,however

,and instead of

being a place for the study of the movements ofother worlds, the building had become one for theinvestigation of movements nearer home—an earthquake laboratory

,as it were

,where these uncanny

disturbances made records on the various contrivances a famous specialist had devised for measur

ing all sorts of jolts and jars and palpitations. The ircapacity for notation included all disturbances

,from

the upheaval o f a mountain range to the alightingof the most careful fly.

Naturally the conversation took the earthquaketurn

,and the Professor

,our host

,whose home was

in the building, had many interesting things to tel lus on the subject of seismology. He explained

ON THE EARTHQUAKE PLAN 207

what a “ quake did to an earth particle during aseismic disturbance

,how it moved east and west

,

north,south

,and up and down . He showed a

“ track ” a colleague of his,Professor Sekiya

,had

made to illustrate the movement. The track wasof wire

,bent and wound and turned about, in and

out,till i t looked like a skein of yarn a kitten had

been playing with. To follow it from end to end

would have taken a patient man a week. But itwas accurate undoubtedly

,for the Professor and his

assistants had worked it out from thousands o f

seismograph records which they had collected frommany parts of the world . The seismograph toldthe truth , the Professor declared, for he had testedit on stands he had built especially for artificialoscillation. The record o f the seismographs andthe known oscil lation of the stands correspondedexactly.

I t was wonderful,especially to those of us who

we’

re griffins .

“ O for an earthquake !” said the griffins .

Well,you may not have long to wait

,said

the Professor. “ We have about five hundred ayear in Japan

, you know. One may be along beforethe evening’s over.”

And he spoke tru ly,for the servants had no more

than brought on the fish when the floor began towriggle

,the lamps and pictures to sway

,the windows

to rattle,and the dishes on the mahogany to clatter

about l ike a lot o f frightened turtles .The Professor had just made a remark aboutearthquakes’ construction when the swirl ing began.

THE HEART OF JAPAN

He looked round at us as though to observe individual effects, and said

“ Here you are, boys . How singularly a propos .

I ’l l have some good records to show you in themorning. Meanwhile

,as this build ing is a bit old

,

I suggest we get under the table . I t is built on theearthquake plan

,and should the roof fall we are

safe there .

”

By the time he had said “ there al l of us werethere

,riding on the sea-less billows of the floor

,

which creaked and undulated and bumped our headsagainst the table’s under surface, and rolled us againstits stalwart legs , and against each other, as thoughwe were great dough bill iard-balls trying to makecannon and cushion shots . These were the sensations

,as I can testify after comparing notes with

my companions,but as none of us had on seismo

graphs I cannot say that I am dynamical ly correct.When we came out from under the table the fi sh

was cold,but we had had such a warm time we

did not mind . We told the Professor that he wasthe cleverest arranger we had ever known. Wehad never met before with such a happy combinationof theory and practice

,and we al l said

Here’s looking at you .

I t was excellent sherry,an additional reason for

not caring that the fish was cold .

The Professor l ighted a cigarette,and as the entrée

came on smiled and said“ Thank you kindly

,but really it’s only this

anyone must see that a good strong table l ike thismay be a protection if one is on the right side of


and l istened to the ballet of the dishes overhead.

We did not stay as long this time, however ; andwhen a third shock came we were down for j ust amoment

,and then only from force of habit. We

believed in the Professor’s scheme,however

,and

each of us decided to have a heavy table roundsomewhere so long as we had residence in thecountry.

“ Another point for you chaps that l ive in foreignstyle

,

” said the Professor,“ and one to remember

,

is that a heavy bedstead is a good thing. I f a quakecomes after you have retired

,rol l

, out and under,and there you are safe though the heavens fall . I fany of you build here

,see to the door-posts

,and

especially to the lintels across the tops of the posts .Have the l intels over the windows strong

,too

,or

else do not have the windows directly one abovethe other. A row of windows running up a wall ina straight line is l ike the holes in a sheet of postagestamps . When the quake comes, there

’s where thewall wil l tear

,right up and down along that row

of windows.”

We all agreed to fol low the Professor’s advicefaithfully. Personally I can say that I have neverput Up walls since that in the least suggested postagestamp construction . The Professor gave US somefurther tips

,too

,which some of us found of great

value later on. One man,a Japanese professor

,

Kashiko i by name,built a house in Yokohama

strictly in accordance with the Professor’s ins tructions . He also dug a trench round the border ofhis grounds about six feet deep

,similar to the one

ON THE EARTHQUAKE PLAN 2 1 1

round the Engineering College at Kaga Yash ik i.The Professor had explained to him how this ditchcut o ff surface vibrations. These vibrations, it seems,Sk im along like ripples on the surface of a pondinto which a boy has thrown a stone think ing hecould h it a frog. A few feet down

,the e ffect of

th is kind of vibration is practical ly nil . The frameof Kashiko i

’

s house was l ike a broad inverted V.

A neighbour asked him one day if his house wasto be all roof .

“ No,”Kashikoi repl ied ;

“ but yours wil l be oneof these days , Aho, old chap, if you don

’t do as Ido. And indeed Abo’s roof did settle down uponhim one night

,so close to the ground that it took

an hour for his apprehensive friends to dig h im out.I t was only the shape of the roof

,an inverted V ,

that saved him . Kashiko i,tak ing advantage of the

Professor’

s experience , shunned a cubic frame l ikeAbo’s , which could twist to pieces easily, and hedid not have a house all roof either. Only the upperhalf of the frame was roof. A long the lower halfon each side he ran a porch. The frame of theporch looked l ike wings on the V. The house wasbetween two porches

,and as thoroughly protected

by the roof—l ike frame as Aho had been,only much

more comfortably.

Kashiko i became expert in chimneys,too

,after

his first failure. He had an interest in the Yokohama electric l ight plant, and had let a youngJapanese engineer put Up the ch imney. With thefirst quake it fell in a heap and smashed th ings

.

Examination showed that each brick had fal len


separately,what l ittle cement there was between

them being of no use at all. Kashiko i had theyoung engineer Up before a committee of investigation . Question followed question , until the youngnative

,see ing no escape, said he had built the thing

with non -cohesive cement purposely. Had he usedthe A I article the chimney, instead of sinking intoa heap in a comparatively small area, would havefallen in a rigid mass extending far from its baseand resulting possibly in the death of unsuspectingpassers-by.

Chimney number two went up under Kashikoi’

s

personal Supervision, large at the base,knitted

together with steel bands within the brickwork, andA I cement throughout.But to go on with our dinner. Over the coff ee

and cigarettes our host told of his volcanic experi

ences,of climbing miles into the air and looking

down into boil ing craters,and other weird tales.

H is j ourneyings are the most comprehensive evermade in Japan . Down near Nagasaki

,the chief

seaport on the island of Kiushiu,he found the

largest active volcano in the world,Aso San ; yet,

in spite of its activity and the terrible eruptions ithas had, there are some seventy villages inside thecrater, with a total population of perhapsDuring one eruption Aso San destroyed livesl iterally obliterated them .

Al l conditions of men,from the M ikado down to

the most lowly, have made o ff erings and prayers topropitiate the wrath of this vast volcanic mountain .

Once, says the Professor, the people heard rumblings

ON THE EARTHQUAKE PLAN 2 1 3

and went to the priest with money, but in vain—therumblings continued and the priest said that Godprobably wanted more money. Then the peoplegave again

,but stil l God did not grant their prayer .

He thinks you have g1ven Insu fficiently, explainedthe priest ; so the people gave a third time. Thenthe holy man beat his sacred drum and clanged thesacred gong

,repeated seven prayers

,and informed

his parishioners that God advised them twice. First,

in case of flood run to the hills . Second , in caseof earthquakes to run to the bamboo forest

,where

the matted roots form a network that would holdthem up even though the ground should open. Andthe people went away dissatisfied

,for they had known

these things all along.

Then the Professor told us of the’

most extraordinary earthquake phenomena he had ever ob

served . I t had to do with the very table we hadbeen s itting about. I t was temporarily in the houseof another man then, while the Professor

’s presenthouse was being put in order for his moving in fromanother part of the city. There had been a dinner

,

much like the one to-night, said our host, and afterthe dinner a little game with a kitty. It was aquiet l ittle game

,of the sort that relieves the mind

of al l sorts of worry,and is restful . Relief indeed

comes to anyone sooner or later if he will stick toit It is one of the game’s strong points.Well ,

” continued our host, we had relieved eachother quite a bit when one of these quakes came

,

rather a l ively one,and the party disappeared through

doors and windows, and under the table, or through


the floor,for all I know. When the rumbling ceased

,

we returned one by one from various retreats,until

five of the six were back at the table. We waited fornumber six

,but he did not come ; then we searched

for half an hour,I should say

,until we found him

in a wardrobe of the most distant room in the building. He was so upset it took more than was in thesoda syphon to restore him . We got him round

,

however, and resumed our seats at the relief table,but the kitty had disappeared. We never found atrace of it.


existing is among the teachers of religion from theWest.” Then they rub their polls and become ab

stracted in contemplation of absolute unconsciousness .The Imperial Government likes the missionary

,and

the M ikado decorated one some years ago. Laterhe and his family were granted all the rights ofcitizenship . The M inister of State, in transmittingthe papers

,declared that the Empire was to be

congratulated in having so worthy a man within itsborders. When this reverend gentleman was presented to the Court of the Heaven - Descended

,he

gave his Imperial Majesty a Bible,the only one

that ever found its way within the palace gates .Like other folks who accomplish things

,the

missionary comes in for criticism . He expects this.Sometimes he even welcomes it. As he leaveshome to l ive among the “ heathen -a word, by theway

,that he carefully eschews SO long as he resides

among them— the older women of his church tel lhim that his noble self - sacrifice awakens pity intheir hearts . P ity there is certainly

,and adm iration

,

too. These are comforting to him,for to the

missionary, as to most folks, it is grievous to giveup home.But after he has l ived a year in Japan it would bemore grievous were he ordered to return . He haseaten of the lotus. When his seventh year arrives,and he is to come back for a twelvemonth

,he does so

with some little eagerness to see what home will lookl ike after an absence of six years

,and with a joyous

expectation of seeing relatives and old friends againbut

,after he has seen, his face turns towards the Far

MISSIONAR IES AND MISSIONARIES 2 17

East with yearning,and he is not quite himself again

until the land beyond the setting sun—or, as the

ancient name describes it, the Land of the R isingSun— i s beneath his feet once more. The Empirehe has sought to convert has converted him . Hedoes not say so

,perhaps he does not know, but it

is a fact.The missionary is an influential person in the East.He has established schools far and wide, several ofthem of exceptional excellence. He is the intel lectualfather of thousands of the young men and women ofNew Japan. These young folks do not al l professthe creed of their teacher, but it is safe to say thatnot one of them has failed altogether to profit bycontact with the foreigner. The young man maystil l be apt to speak what is not so

,probably he is

,

but at least he has learned there is such a thingas truth-tell ing—strange and wonderful though itis to him and of doubtful util ity—yet worthy ofinvestigation . To accomplish even this is no smal l

gain .

M ission schools teach everything,from chemistry

to knitting socks . They represent nearly everydenomination of importance in the world

,and they

dispense knowledge almost without cost. They area boon to the country, but sometimes the earneststudent takes advantage of them

,and

,if slang may

be allowed , he pulls the missionary’s leg.

”

Such an earnest student soon discovers that hereceives more attention from the missionary andfrom the wife if he shows signs of conversion . Consequently, at whatever school he enters his name, he


begins to be converted right away. AS he changesfrom school to school—change being a delight tothe Japanese—he is converted frequently. By thetime his education is complete he is one of the mostconverted persons in the world . Indeed , it is notimpossible to find a member of the Greek Churchwho is also a Congregationalist

,a French Catholic

,a

Baptist,a Unitarian

,a Methodist

,a communicant of

the Church of England, and belonging, possibly, tohalf a dozen minor mission organisations .The general run of mission students are as religious

as the average British youth. Apparently theyenjoy their lessons in piety thoroughly

,the girls in

particular ; but they have such gentle natures that itis hard to bel ieve they need instruction in humilityand meekness . They are themselves l iving lessonsin these virtues .The missionary-in-the-cannibal-stew idea is Upset

by a V isit to the houses of the evangelists in Tsukij i,

Tokio. One sees there that, even from a worldlypoint of V iew, it is not a sad thing to be

“ called .

So long as he is faithful to his creed,he need “ not

worry over worldly matters. His salary will bepaid regularly until he resigns or passes on to theland he has sought to prepare so many othe rs for.He will have a home to live in

,the mission doctor

and pharmacist will attend to him and to his familywithout charge. He goes to the mountains whenthe heat of summer comes

,usually to N ikko

,con

cerning which place the Japanese legend says“ N ikko wo minai uchi wa kekko to iuna ” (

“ Untilyou have seen N ikko do not use the word


Chinese characters. Some minds have given way inthe attempt to learn them .

Still,to the missionary with a turn for original

investigation , there is an infinite field in Japan,and

this has saved men who loved intellectual l ife,and

found little congenial companionship among thenatives—history

,Buddhism

,land tenure

,philology

,

and the intricacies of the native family relationship,

are only a few of the subjects that as yet foreignersneed light upon . But the missionary is investigatingpatiently. A lready he has enough material for anEncyclopaedia Japonica. The thing he has to fightagainst is the influence of his surroundings

,which

tend to allay keen desire for achievement whichscholars in the West maintain . In counteractingthis

,the septennial home-coming is a wholesome

tonic .On the west coast the nearest missionary to us

was at Kanazawa. When we went there we fel lby the wayside, as it were, returned to our formerhabits of life, sat on an American rocking - chairand slept on a spring bed . I t was a sad fall fromthe floor up into a rocking-chair and on to a springbed

,but the missionary’s hospitality was as difficult

to resist as that of our native friends at Tatsumi .One of our Hongwanj i friends was with us on one

of our journeys through Kanazawa. His home wasin Kiyoto , where he had studied with interest thework of the teachers in Doshisha, the Christiancollege which American m issionaries had establishedthere over twenty years ago . He had been toAmerica and to Europe ; at Oxford had attracted

MISSIONARIES AND MISSIONARIES 22 1

some l ittle attention by his industry in history andin philosophy. I believe he had been a studentunder Max Muller. He had a fine admiration forChristian ity

,and only asked for fair judgment.

“ We are on good terms with the Doshisha folk ,he said

,as we went along on foot towards some

famous hot springs a few ri south,

“ and we havelearned much from them . Our priests have goneabroad to study rel igious institutions in the landswhere this wonderful religion came from . Jesusseems to us much like what we call a Buddha . We

notice,too, that Christianity is divided into sects

much as Buddhism is . I think for the most part,though

,that our sects get along together with less

friction than do the Christian sects. A t least wedo not criticise each other in the newspapers.Perhaps at home you do not. I was only a studentwhen I was abroad , and my text-books took so muchof my time that I am sorry to say I did not readmuch else. I have seen rather unpleasant letters inthe Yokohama and Kobe papers . I do not thinkthe Doshisha folk contributed any of theseletters.I t seems unfair to me that we should be con

demned without being studied . We do not wishto keep Christian missionaries out of Japan . Wewelcome them ,

for there is work enough to keep us

all busy, but we should l ike to have those who comeover to teach us the truth study our doctrines

,to see

if we have not already some of this truth ourselves.

Here and there a missionary studies Buddhism,but

the instances are not sufficient to make a large


percentage of the men and women who come tolive among us. How can they expect to teach the

Japanese people if they do not understand theJapanese people ? and how can they expect tounderstand the people unless they understand thepeople’s religion ? Why, our Foreign O ffice officialsstudy Christianity before going abroad . That is partof their diplomatic training. How much more

,then

,

should missionaries of religion study the faiths of thelands they go to ?

“ The good work that Christian missionaries aredoing in Japan would progress more rapidly if themissionaries would learn the Buddhist doctrines andstudy the influence these doctrines have had on theminds of Japanese. Whatever there is of truth inthe religion of Europe and America and in the re

l igion of Japan must harmonise. I do not see whyBuddhists and Christians should be at war. I donot believe they are at heart. We both Should liketo save the world, and we shall . To save the world ,however

,it is not necessary that one party Should

annihilate the other. I t will be more in accordancewith wisdom for each man to do whatever directlyhelpful work there is before him . There is so muchto do

,we cannot afford to expend even the minutest

quantity of energy needlessly.

Look at China,for instance

,where we have some

missionary interest. We may have some hard workthere before long. We are foreigners there, youknow

,and the anti-foreign feeling is increasing. This

is partly the fault of greedy European Powers andpartly the fault of methods in missionary work . I t


then comes to the governor of the province in whichthe convert and the missionary live, and talks to HisExcellency about the annoyance of foreign complications . The governor proceeds against the mayor orthe chief of the town in which the convert is confined

,

and the mayor has it out with the convert’s accusers.I t reads like the story of Tke H ouse tkat j ack Bu il t,but it usually ends badly. The mayor is betweenthe governor and the populace. He will have a hardtime of it either way. The governor is afraid of theTsung l i Yamen, and will make trouble for him if hedoes not let the convert go . If he does liberate himthe people will conspire against him for favouring anapostate. Not that the apostacy enrages them .

They would forgive that would the convert continue his subscriptions . They need his money andare wroth with the missionary for depriving themof it.The missionary is also laying up trouble for him

self by his lack of understanding of Chinese socialinstitutions. For one thing

,he should let the Chinese

pay respect to their ancestors as much as they like.A Chinaman reverences his father and his mother

,

his grandfather,his grandmother

,and all his ancestors.

Living or dead his forefathers receive the sameveneration . The Chinaman obeys your Fifth Commandment better than the Christian obeys it. Hecontinues to pay his respects after death has takenhis parents from him . He believes their spirits knowof his fidelity

,and that he is pleasing them by his

acts of fi l ial piety. He does not ask the spirits toassist him

,or to protect him

,or to do anything for

MISSIONARIES AND MISSIONARIES 225

h im in any way. He does not pray to them nordoes he worship them . He honours them .

“ The m issionary,not understanding what he saw

,

m istook the Chinese obe isance for an act of worship .

This mistake has led him to protest against the mostsacred of Chinese customs, and to irritate the peoplein their most sensitive spot. In fact

,from the Chinese

standpoint,the remarks of some of the Protestant

miss ionaries as to the worthiness and the fate ofheathen ’ ancestors

,have been revolting. What

would you say to the man who appl ied to yourmother epithets that would shame a fallen woman ?Kill him ? Yes, that is your attitude, and it is theattitude of many Chinese towards the missionaries .You will see the result some day.

We do not have this antagonism in Japan becausethe Japanese are tolerant and are eager to learn . WeBuddhists are glad to work with all who wi ll helpmankind . Japanese reverence their ancestors

,but

they are not as keen about it as the Chinese are ; and ,altogether, Christian missionaries may be said to havea rather easy time of it here. If they will master ourlanguage and understand our doctrines they will havea yet easier time.

And I Should like to say, too, that some of thosemissionaries who are rather hot against Buddhismwould see, if theywould consider, that we are Buddhistsfor pretty much the same reason that accounts fortheir being Christians . Their parents were Christians

,

their relatives were, their friends were. They heardtheir learned men preach Christianity

,their teachers

told them it was true, and thus growing up in it they15


bel ieve it. That is natural. If they did not, it wouldbe remarkable. Buddhism came to us in the sameway. We both did not know of other religions atfirst

,and as each has the same practical end in View

perhaps we can work better side by side than againsteach other. As there are many things about whicha Christian missionary would find fault if he studiedBuddhist sects

,so there are points in some mission

aries’ teachings that we do not see clearly or do notthink of great value to the world .

We believe that good done for the sake of rewardhas no merit and will not benefit the individual whoacts with such a motive. The Christians’ heaven

,as

some preach it, seems to us a bribe. We do not claimto be the only folks that possess the truth . I haveheard that this religion (Christianity)was the onlytrue one, that others were all wrong—as fi lthy rags

,

I think the missionary said . Then he added that, ofthe forty or fifty kinds of Christianity

,his kind was

the only right k ind. ( I believe he was a member ofwhat he cal led the Christian Church

,and his followers

were Christian Christians,instead of Baptist

,or

Methodist, or Presbyterian,or Episcopal ian

,or

Unitarian Christians.) He said that if there couldbe such a thing as grades of joy in heaven

,the

Christian Christians would have the best grade.“ The Christian Bible

,in which we find much that

is noble and beautiful and sacred,seems to us to be

two Bibles , one Jewish and one Gentile. The NewTestament contains the fulfi lment of the propheciesof the old

,some say, but the Jews , the chosen people

of God,

’

do not agree to this statement. AS the Old

F IGHT ING PRIESTS

MISSIONARIES AND MISSIONARIES 227

Testament belongs to them , their opin ion as to itsmeaning should have weight. Why do Christianpriests preach from the Old Testament if the doctrineof immortality is not to be found there ? Whatwould Christianity be without immortality ?We do not understand why it is that what Jesus

taught and what Christians do are so different. Jesussaid ‘Love your enemies,

’ yet Christians are at warin some place or other almost al l the time. Howmany Christians have Christians k i l led ? And why ?We do not find the answer in the teachings of Jesus .The Jews

,too, seem to have been at war a great

deal . A ‘heathen ’ might suppose that there wassomething in Bible study which made a man desireto fight. Some of our Buddhists are very careful tol ive up to the idea ‘thou shalt not k ill .’ They havetheir wooden clogs made with one support underneathinstead of two so that they will step on fewer insectswhen walk ing. Though there have been many fighting priests who served their emperor loyally or defended their homes against assault, there have beenno Buddhist wars at al l .

“ We do not understand how the doctrines of‘Eternal Punishment ’ and ‘Remission of Sins ’

agree. We have heard so often of incarnationsthey are ubiquitous and perennial—that the Christianstory does not have much force. We believe inl iberation rather than in sacrifice

,and the story of

Jehovah offering His Son seems to us to be a mythfounded on ideas of human sacrifice similar to thosethe Druids held . New Japan 15 scientific and critical

.

She is learn ing to compare foreign ideas and to dis


crim inate between them . At first she accepted themin toto, as there was no help for it. Her experiencegave her nothing to gauge by. Such religious theoriesor schemes or plans

,as the Fall of Man and his

Redemption,will hardly meet with general acceptance

,

but I should think that Christianity could proceedwithout them.


long as they remain there,are dedicated to joy and sin .

To hire the Carlton Hotel in order to eat a sandwichwould be on a par

,financial ly, with this act of Sendai

’s .Sendai l iked the “ No dance

,which is indeed

perfect in its dainty grace, but, l ike classic music, onecannot learn to appreciate it in an afternoon. A longcourse of training is necessary. This training isexpensive when one persists in it on the scale thatSendai followed . He delighted to look over his sakécup while five hundred beautifully robed geisha postured before him in rhythmic motion , l ike a field offlowers in the wind. He gave great dances on allthe festal days

,sometimes on a flotilla in the river

,

and sometimes beneath the cherry blossoms alongthe banks of Sumida Gawa . He would hire a theatre,with a company of actors

,and give a continuous

performance for a week,with the l ittle square pens in

the pit fi lled with singing girls,all banqueting.

The tea-houses that he patronised grew rich,for

his custom was to order “ the best in the world andal l there is of it. He would have broken the Satsumadishes o ff which he fed if he had not been toothoroughly an artist.He ate kami-boku

,made of the l ittle kernel of

flesh taken from the head of “ tai,

” a kind of breammuch esteemed by Japanese epicures . Court nobleswould have rel ished the bodies

,but Sendai threw

these away. He ate mountain - sparrow soup,that

even the Shogun saw only once a year when heoffered food to the spirits of his ancestors .With all this he seems to have kept his health

,

owing, perhaps , to his practice of fencing with the


the Shogun tracts on the beneficial effects of tea, howit regulated the whole system and drove out devilsmight

,indeed

,be preferred to the gold cure.

E isai worked in a good deal of rel igion along withhis tea

,but the ceremony of drinking grew more and

more worldly,until it was all luxury and no rel igion .

The swells drank tea daily in gorgeous apartmentshung with brocade and damask, where they burnedprecious perfumes

,and served rare fishes and strange

birds with sweetmeats and wine. In time they losttheir fortunes and themselves in this extravagance ofetiquette

,for the rules ordained that all the things

rich and rare that were exhibited were to be given tothe singing and dancing girls who entertained theguests . Troops of them were always present, andthis explains why Sendai was SO fond of tea.Even in such extravagant observance

,however

,tea

drinking was not altogether an evil . While it lastedit gave great stimulus to art. Some of the finestspecimens of native work date from the “ tea period.

”

CHAPTER XX IX

AND SO HE BECAME A SAINT

ACHI has waterfalls, temples, and big trees .The big trees are glorious in the autumn, the

temples have many famous relics,and the waterfalls,

among them the highest in Japan,wil l wash away

all sin . When Gardner and I were down there wetried one

,with gratifying results . We may return to

it some day,should it seem advisable. I t does one

good to take a fall now and again .

The pool we chose for our ablutions was belowIch i-no-taki

,

” or No . 1 Fall , the largest of the three,which tumbles down a good three hundred feet.It was the very place that Saint Mongaku Shoninhad soaked in continuously for three weeks somecenturies before . A peasant woman showed us wherehe sat

,and then sold us several pictures taken on the

spot—ages after the event.Mongaku portraits are common in Nachi . They are

accurate representations of what was in the mindof whoever made them . No one should blame thesaint that they are not beautiful . He has quiteenough else to answer for

,and were it not for the

virtues o f Ichi-no-taki,and his long atonement in the

233


pool below,one dreads to think where he would be

now. Mongaku was the name he was known byafter death ; his l iving name was Rambo. Rambo’sexperience was one to have made of him a saint orelse a raging devil. Fate ordained him saint, with apurgatory on earth .

When young he had been full of fiery ambitions.His father was dead

,and being the only son what

could his mother do ? Her parents had “ augustlydeparted

,

” and her husband too ; was not her’s the

third Obedience ? Rambo was not much about thehouse

,however

,nor keen for the books that his uncle,

the chief priest at Fudarakuj i, the first of the Kwannontemples

,gave him to read . He was for the moun

tains . He knew the Kumano Three Peaks betterthan the oldest hunters

,at least so said the village

folk. He was a wonderful swimmer too, and coulddive into pools and catch fishes with his hands.Occasionally he would be away for weeks at Oshima

,

watching with the whalers and going out with themto place the nets. He was the first to jump on thedying mammal to cut the slits in the creature’s backand make the hawser fast for towing the body ashore.Both on land and on the water

,and in the water

too, he was as skilful at eighteen as others were ateight-and-thirty. Furthermore

,he was a handsome

youth, according to traditions, not the pictures , andhad smal l traces about him of the saint that wasto be.One day of a season that had been poor for whales

,

Rambo had been with the topmost look-outs watchingvainly for a chance to give the signal to the men


must be a daughter to you and company, if you need

such things .”

These words pleased the mother greatly, for thedays had been long and lonely since she became a

widow.

Your selfish,stupid mother thanks you with

much gratefulness,

” she said,bowing to her son,

who was busy making a net for ducks and did not

notice.On the fol lowing day after this talk , Shinrui came

and O Gozen San with him . Rambo’s mother greetedthem with many welcomes.

“ I t is indeed good to see you,

” she said.

“ Comein ! come in l My son has gone to the river for sometrout and will be back directly. What a pity thereshould have been an accident to the embankment !We heard of it only yesterday

,but it explained your

delay. Indeed we hardly thought you could arrivebefore night, or possibly to-morrow morning. Here !I will put your luggage in this cupboard where youcan open it at your leisure. This corner of ourunworthy house is to be yours always. Excuse thedirty and miserable condition of everything. Doyou like the view across the river to the hillsidetemple ? The bath will be hot in a few minutes .Here are the futon . Lie down and rest

,and I will

call you presently. Here is some hot saké. Pardonthe rude way in which I serve it. Now I will leaveyou and send a messenger for Rambo.

”

So in a short time the new arrivals had bathed andrested and refreshed themse lves with cakes and saké

,

and by the time for the midday meal Rambo was

AND SO HE BECAME A SAINT 237

back with a basket of fish such as gives joy to thehearts of the children of Japan. Shinrui and O GozenSan bowed low and apo logised for their S low com ing

,

and for the trouble they were giving, and for havingthe disgusting effrontery to be in existence,

” as wellas for other things beyond the ken of those uninitiatedto the mysteries of Japanese etiquette. Rambobowed with due formality, and then , not noticing OGozen San

,who

,after the manner of Japanese women

,

kept hersel f on the verge of obliteration , he proceededto ask about the sports of the west coast

,—the fencing

,

the wrestl ing, the boar hunting, the bear and the deer,the ducks and the pheasants

,about the dangers of

the mountains, the storms on the North Sea, andwhat not.In the afternoon he took Shinrui to Show h im the

fal ls and the pools where the fishing was best. Thenext day the pair went into the mountains

,and later

they travelled down to see if the whales had comein - sight. One did come in towards shore

,and the

Oshima men got him . Shinrui was aston ished atwhat he saw. Soon after they were home againShinrui had to go to Kiyoto on business connectedwith the estate of the man who had adopted him . I twas then that Rambo real ly saw O Gozen San . Theshyness which her new surroundings caused at firsthad disappeared

,and her new mother

,as she cal led

her hostess, had treated her so k indly that theCheerfulness she had not known since her father’sdeath returned.

Rambo watched her often , though he did not real isewhy. He had not thought seriously of any woman


before,nor cared much whether or no there were

such beings ; but now,his mother noticed , he was

round the house much more, sometimes the wholeday long ; he was more careful of his dress, and of hisappearance generally ; when he was away it was onlyto procure some dainty, which, though he did notpresent it directly to O Gozen San, he encouragedher to eat with much sol icitude.The old lady did not suspect the meaning of t hechange

,until she said one morn ing

Shinrui San will return soon, now. You will thenhave a companion for your hunting. I see how youhave missed him . I t is too bad you should have hada stupid time so long about the house where onlywomen are .

”

“ I do not wish Shinrui to return , said Rambo.

There wil l be no peace for me when he comes back .

I wish the gods would take him to the Boninislands.

Oya !oya !” cried the old lady,

“ what can causeyou to talk so of a friend

,and our relation ? ”

“ That is just the matter. He is a relation. If hewere not, all would be easy. But I must have myway in spite of that. You must arrange it forme .

”

Arrange what,my son ?

I must have O Gozen San . She must go withme and be my wife .

“ Are you mad ? Why do you make such horridjests ? Surely you do not mean these words. Youwould not harm the honour of our house ? ”

But Rambo convinced his mother,whose face


empty.When Shinrui was beginning to Show the

effects of this attention, Rambo, saying he wouldreturn shortly

,left the room to put his sword in

order. O Gozen San sat by her husband, helpingin the plot

,and pouring him saké unti l he yawned

and called for his futon . She got some and laid

them out in order.Not noticing what they were, nor in what place

she had arranged them,he rolled over to them and

immediately was asleep. Then w istfully Gozenlooked at him

,and drawing the yagu up to cover

him,she bowed her head to the floor, saying

“ Dana San, O Yasumi Nasai.Closing the karakami to her apartment she changedthe dark k imono she was wearing for one allwhite. Then she laid out Shinrui’s own futon inthe accustomed place, took a rosary that once hadbeen her mother’s, and kneeling with the beadsbetween her palms, she repeated S lowly severaltimes

Namu Am ida Butsu ! Namu Am ida ButsuAnd now lying down she covered herself with

Shinrui’

s yagu, and lay as though asleep quite inthe position her husband had been wont to occupy.

Only she herself knew it was the woman and notthe man that lay there.What happened afterwards who shall say ? Butin the morning a moaning mother’s mind had givenway through grief for a son’s crime ; a husbandhad been drowned in searching fiercely for amurderer ; and a youth of splendid promise hadturned from the world with the horror of remorse

AND SO HE BECAME A SAINT 24 1

upon him,with a great awakening in his soul

,a

cry demanding life-long penance and self-obliteratingservice to the glory of Amida Buddha. The servicehe began in the sanctuary pool of penitents, whichto this day is beneath the great fall at Nach i.

CHAPTER XXX

KADE AND THE REPEATERS

E had a pupil in one of our classes for Engl ishconversation whom we called “ Pokan no

Kade —or Kade,

” for short . When Pokan no Kadewas a youngster his particular playmate was MutsuHito

,the present Emperor of Japan .

Mutsu and Kade had many likes in common,and many disl ikes too ; but they were generouslads

,and had never been known to quarrel .

D ifference in rank had not come between them ,

and each one was devoted to the other,as two

chums should be. One of their common likes wascakes. There was much discussion about the palacewhether Kade or the Son of the Immortals atethis sweet of the pastry-maker with the more rel ish .

Certainly it was a joyous sight to see either of thema-munching, and when they munched together, asthey often did in the palace garden

,even the

fiercest of the guardsmen would begin to purr.But one day there was no cake. The Son of theImmortals had had a pain that morning

,and the

thirteen Court physcians , after consultation , had toldthe Grand Marshal of the Household about this

242


palace,playing with a half-dozen watches which

his Imperial chum had given to him the day before.Watches

,or “ toki

,

” as Mutsu had called them , werenew things in Japan then, espec ial ly repeaters , andall six of these were repeaters .Kade had great fun with them, ringing their

bells,and laying them like stepping-stones about

a dainty garden such as all Japanese children canlay out in miniature so prettily. Once he built acastle

,and planted the watches in two piles on

the very top,just as the gold dolphins are put on

the Castle of Nagoya .

He was so busy with his play that for a longtime he did not hear the many voices saying cake .

But finally,when an inadvertent kick had upset

his castle,and he was looking about for something

else to do,he heard the cries

,and soon found out

their meaning.

Thrusting the watches into h is sleeve—which waslarge enough to hold more playthings than thepockets of a whole suit of clothes such as anEnglish boy wears—he ran to the royal kitchen ;but of course there was no cake there

,nor would

the cooks make any,though Kade begged never

so hard .

“ I’ll get some, anyhow,he said to himself. “ A

watch is as pretty as a cake. I know where there’san old woman with a houseful of cakes . She justsits and looks at them all day. I ’ll go to seeher.So Kade S l ipped out unseen and went to the

cake-shop, where he laid the Six watches on the

KADE AND THE REPEATERS 245

floor near where the old woman sat, and p ickingup six of the prettiest cakes, put them in his sleeves,and scampered back to the palace.

That night the Court physicians held anotherconsultation.

CHAPTER XXX I

KADE WOULD ADVENTURE

ADE thought to run away from his home onenight. He had planned for the adventure as

he sat on the edge of the verandah of his home inTokio. Years after he told us the story. Hereit is in substance, if not in his exact words.

“ Yes,I must have waraj i, of course,

” he said tohimself as he sat swinging his bare legs to and fro.

The road over the mountain is rough. I rememberhow it cut my feet when I got out of the kago Up

there and ran on ahead to see if the men had caughta bear. If I had only worn sandals then I couldhave gone into the woods and helped.

”

Kade was only nine years old then , and though ofa Kuge or Court noble family had been adopted by apersonage who stood high in favour with the Shogun .

He knew the folk-lore of his country well , and believedit all was true, and he could tel l of many of the bravedeeds that had been done in Dai N ippon s ince JimmuTenno, the founder of the Empire, had descendedfrom the Skies upon the sacred mountain that al lJapanese stil l hold in reverence. His tutor had toldhim of these things

,for he was a man of war as well

246


as the old stone bridge is called . He had with himthe wooden box in which he had seen the stewardput the Shining yellow pieces.

The sandal maker was a l ight sleeper, and heardthe first low call that Kade made. She found thekind of waraj i that he wanted, and he thanked her forthem . Then he opened the wooden box and handedher a piece of money.

When the sandal maker saw it she gasped forbreath. Kade had o ff ered her a gold piece stampedj iu yen . A j iu yen piece ! Why, that was enough tobuy six thousand waraj i

,or sixty thousand l ikely. It

was more money than the old woman had seen in al l

her l ife. She had heard of such enormous pieces , butthat she should ever touch one with her poor old handCome

,take it

,

” said Kade. “ I t’s money. I mustput on the waraj i and be o ff .”

The old woman was stil l speechless.The lad called out to her again

,but there was no

answer. Then the moon broke through a cloud andshone upon the aged face. When Kade saw it

,fear

came upon him , and he ran back to his uncle’s house

so fast that he seemed to fly. He took with him thewooden box and the waraj i, but he left the j iu yenpiece in the dead woman’s hand

,where a guardsman

found it in the early morn ing.

CHAPTER XXX I I

WHAT HAPPENED TO ALLEN

HE is so frol icsome, jolly, and good-natured , andabove al l She delights so much in pleasing

,that

globe-trotters,the “ transients ” of Japan

,misunder

stand the “ musume,” while she is too innocent to

understand their views of her. They think shecannot say no

,

” but she can. They think,too

,that

complacency is the law of her l ife. There they areright and wrong, for she accepts what her consciencetells her is her duty w ith a resignation that has theoutward aspect of complacency, but she is far indeedfrom being complacent with infringements of thoseproprieties that are natural to the social conditionsof her far-distant land.

She can draw the line for the globe-trotter,and for

the foreigner resident, too, for that matter, as one ofour friends knows ful l well, or did know until a logrol led over him in a Western lumber camp and blottedout all memory of the past, so that even tapping hissub-consciousness has not recalled it.He was an American with various degrees which

he had picked up here and there,and a keen fond

ness for travel . He was M .A . of Harvard,LL .B.

249


of Columbia,PhD . of Heidelberg, J .V .D . of Paris ;

and something else in St. Petersburg that is impossiblein English type. While he had been picking updegrees he had done what he called “ a few stunts onthe side

,running a paper in one place, and lecturing

on philosophy,Sanscrit, Greek, French literature,

and the History of Law in other places. In truthhe had an appalling quantity of education, and inspite of it much charm of manner. He came toJapan as a sociologist. He wished to study whatever relics of the recent feudalism might remain

,

and to watch the progress in the national kindergarten.

With h is string of degrees he had no trouble infinding a university appointment that gave him theopportunities he needed for investigation . A DaiGakko professor ranks high in Japan. Soon he wasestablished . He rented a home on Smal l StoneRiver Hill

,near a famous temple

,and had arranged

his l ife quite on the Japanese order. Excepting whenhe was in the lecture-room he wore k imono insteadof foreign dress

,and geta, or clogs, instead of shoes .

He went barefoot, ate with chopsticks , sat on thefloor, slept on the floor

,learned to l ike raw fish and

plain bo iled rice. He had not a stove in the house,

only the charcoal braziers,called hibachi

,and a sort

of furnace for burning wood that the cook used in thekitchen . The smoke from this found its way out

through a hole high up in the wall under one end ofthe ridge pole at the top of the ceilingless kitchen, orelse it blew round and pervaded the apartmentgenerally. The gas from the charcoal got out easily


psychologic principles for harmonious developmentaccording to the laws of thought.

Al l the twelve learned rapidly, as is the customof girls in Dai N ippon, but O Toku got hopelesslyahead

,so far

,indeed, that A l len

’

s system were

itself to ravels catching up— and then it never

reached her. He put her into French to holdher back

,and later into German ; and finally he

gave her a series of essays on general l iterature , that

he had worked up for a PG . course for some collegedown in Melbourne . In this composition he hadused whatever language had come handiest. ForFrench he had used German , for German French,and for English both French and German . O TokuSan was equally indifferent in her reading of theessays

,and one day, bowing very low, she handed to

Allen the whole series written out in Japanese,

saying she thought all students would like to readit if they could have it in their language. A llenhad the translation printed, with O Toku

’s name andfamily crest on the title-page— the last page in thebook as European volumes go—and six monthslater the Empress sent the girl a special decoration .

While al l this acquisition was in progress,Allen

was growing very chummy round at O Toku San’shome

,just o ff the corner of the famous Denzuin

temple grounds. This home had been a temple initself once, and all the paraphernalia of Buddhistworship was stil l in place in the ch ief apartment ofthe building ; but with the disappearance of theShogun and the reappearance of the M ikado

,the

Government had disestabl ished Buddhism,and the

WHAT HAPPENED TO ALLEN 253

priests had abandoned many temples for lack ofthe funds needful to maintain them . 0 Toku San’shome was one of these abandoned temples . Thebeautiful shaft of l ight - brown stone standing bythe gateway declared that eaters of flesh and drinkersof wine must not enter within the sacred precinctsbut the fair maid’s father troubled little about thisancient warn ing, and gave banquets almost everyseventh day with beef and saké much in evidence.A l len was much in evidence too on these occasions

,

and most of his spare moments between times also,

so that his brethren at the University took it uponthemselves to warn h im against the danger of overstudy in the electric climate of Japan . They sus

pected the new-comer of try ing to break the recordmade by a young German professor who had learnedto read

,write

,and speak Japanese within twelve

months,and had never been right since. A l len

thanked them , and said he would knock Off at thefirst moment he felt unwell . Then he hired anextra man for his j in-riki-sha and pushed for L ittleStone-River Hill as fast as he could go. Getting intohis kimono

,he “ ran over to pass the time until

the twelve should assemble for their conversationlesson .

I t was delic ious lying on the porch there on thesoft mats just within , l istening to O Toku San asshe read some favourite bit of foreign l iterature hehad brought to her

,and answering the questions

she asked of the customs of the lands on the otherside of the world . And what a tremendous thing al ittle question was sometimes—or its answer

,rather !


He had l ived in many countries and had studiedmuch

,but time and again 0 Toku San had him.

His inheritance and hers had been so different.She would ask about some chance allusion in thetext—a question that would never occur to a youthin Europe or America

,for it referred to what was

of the life there,which everyone in those countries

knew unconsciously, and A llen would realise therewas more in heredity

,evolution , and development

than he had ever dreamed of.He had made much progress in Japanese

,but

that did not aid him . Had he known the sumtotal of languages in the Far East

,his vocabulary

would have been lacking. Intel lectually,She was

a child of China,he of Greece and Rome and the

ancient Hebrews. I f their family trees had anyroots in common , it must have been in the dayswhen their ancestors l ived among the branches withfoliage for clothes . He would go t hrough thehistory of the half of the world he knew about, andShe would listen , but it was all so di fferent to theother half whose people and theirhistory he, l ike others, treated almost flippantly,

that she could scarcely comprehend,she said so

sadly.

You should go abroad . Then you would soonunderstand,

” said A lien,

“ for you would see withyour own eyes .”

“ I wish it very much,but I am only the l ittle

Japanese girl ,” replied O Toku San .

And why can’t the little Japanese girl go ?asked Allen.

“ The foreigners won’t eat you .


many things,when O Toku San

’s mother entered ,saying

O Sanj i go fun mai degozaimasa (“ Honour

able Three five minutes before augustly-existing isAnd with that A l len made off for his conversation,and O Toku

,whom custom forbade walking in the

streets with a man other than her father, clatteredalong two minutes later.The lesson was mostly with the eleven othergirls that afternoon, for Al len said hardly a wordto O Toku San, nor did she ask questions. To hisdisgust the August Sensei had to Show himself atan official ball at the Rokumeikwan that evening,so he did not see 0 Toku San again until the nextmidday

,when to his chagrin her mother sat out the

entire visit. This annoyed him seriously, but itseemed the old lady had a purpose in her presence.She had been glad at first at the kind attentions ofthe foreigner who taught her daughter with so muchcare

,but now she was worried . Fall ing in love was

a thing she knew nothing about from personal ex

perience, but she had heard of such indiscretions,and wished to protect O Toku from any such misfortune. The girl must marry soon . She had beenengaged S ince before she was born

,for her father

had promised his first daughter to a chum’s firstson long ago when he was a student in “ TheBureau for the Investigation of Barbarian L iterature,

” now grown into the Imperial University.

Neither of the young men had married then,but

they engaged their prospective children nevertheless,and the engagement held. That it could be other

WHAT HAPPENED TO ALLEN 257

wise was one of those ideas that “ is not in theJapanese m ind

,for Japanese society has developed

on Eastern not on Western l ines,—and O Toku San’s

mother wished to avoid entanglements that mightmake the inevitable unpleasant.She was always about when A llen went round to

coach O Toku San in the foreign language lessons ,and she told the girl she must not talk so much inEnglish

,but should use the native Japanese instead .

She forgot that language as an instrument for theinterchange of thought might be written as well asspoken

,and so said not a word against notes and

letters. And so a small miracle came about. A llen,

for once in his l ife, became a correspondent of decentregularity. Written messages passed each way eachday between O Toku and himsel f. The girl longedto become A l len’s wife, and was doing all in herpower to escape the engagement of such longstanding.

-“ I am often kiss your photograph , she declared ,and wondering

, Oh, where is my lover ?’ all the time

you are not by me .”

This was sweet to A llen , but to be so near O TokuSan and yet have her always out of reach was tantalising. I t began to tel l on him . He saw he musthave a change of scene or break down altogether.He told his friends at the University that he wasgoing to the interior to investigate the subject ofland tenure in several of the provinces. He wouldhave carried O Toku San with him had she beenwill ing to elope. She would not go

,but at the

moment of his leave-tak ing, when her mother hadI 7


sl ipped into the next room for an instant to get afresh cup of tea

,she said to him

When you are in the country, please have ahousekeeper to look after you, and I will look uponher as my sister.”

She was in bed three days with what the doctorscalled “ Shinkei-byo ”

(nerve-sickness) after he hadgone . Prescriptions did no good ; but the postmanwho called when the mother happened to be at themarket worked a cure that anyone but a ChristianScientist would have marvelled at. Perhaps he wasa Buddhist Scientist. Regular correspondence between the lovers, however, was hard to manage,owing to maternal vigilance, and in a few monthsAl len was back again to see if progress had beenmade in the destruction of that engagement.He found that O Toku San had not yet seen the

man she was engaged to,but that

,so far as she had

ventured to ascertain,her father’s intention as to the

marriage had not altered,and her mother’s mind of

course was inside her father’s.More land-tenure then

,thought A l len , and was

about leaving for the interior a second time, when acable called him to America. Someone was dead , andthere were affairs in the north-west that demandedhis immediate attention . He had just time to catchhis steamer, but he sent a note of love and explanation to O Toku San by a friend

,and wrote to her

soon after his arrival in Seattle,tel ling her of certain

moneys he had come into,and asking her to wait

patiently a l ittle when he would be able to returnto Japan to get her—his own little girl for ever.

CHAPTER XXX I I I

THE SPORTSMAN IN J APAN

E were sitting round the charcoal fire glowingin a huge hibachi at the Jobugwaisha one

crisp autumn morning, drinking“ tea ” made from

roasted wheat,and waiting for the betto to bring our

horses out. A jol ly place it was in those days, but theHachioj i railway station has obl iterated all trace of it.As we prodded the coals and sipped the tea wediscussed plans for the morrow. Suddenly CountKuro

,our champion rider

,and own cousin of Pokan

no Kade,went out on the “

engawa,” the narrow

verandah that ran along the edge of the loungingrooms of the R iding Association, and pointed towards the east. Ducks !” he shouted,

“ now I knowwhat we can do to-morrow.

“ What may that be ? ” asked a lean, bright-eyedman in a suit of foreign clothes that had done duty inan American university years before

,and now pretty

well d isguised the fact that he was a M inister of State,

He watched the couple of broad V’s in the distancesailing south towards Kobe

,as Kuro waved towards

them,and said ,

“ Those are ducks without doubt,but we cannot get at them .

”

zoo

THE SPORTSMAN IN J APAN 26 1

Oh ! they are quite safe as far as any one of us isconcerned

,

” said Kuro ;“ but there is no reason why

we should not have some others if you like. Tomorrow will be N ichiyobi, and after we have doneriding in the rings here why not stay on our horsesuntil we reach my miserable hovel in the country.

I t’s only a l ittle farther than Oj i,as you may do me

the honour to remember. We can make it in timefor lunch

,and then try the nets so long as the light

holds.”

Not one of us said “ no so the next morning,after we had done our prettiest work with the extramanoeuvres that Nichiyobi always brought, we tookto the road through Ueno and Komagome to Oj i

,

and in less than two hours reached the “ miserablehovel.” I wish all our homes were as miserable. I tis not overstating the case to say that the misery wesaw there and underwent personally we were able toendure without a murmur. I t was one of the placesKu ro’s father

,the Governor of Tokio

,had handed

over to his son on retiring from offi ce and becomingink iyo . The house was low, and rambled along threesides of a parallelogram . I t stood near the centre ofa p iece of land that measured some fifty thousandsof tsubo. There were miniature lakes wel l stockedwith fish , a stream in which in springt ime one foundtrout, a house for the especial purpose of drinkingtea, various gardens for flowers in the differentseasons, a splendid col lection of kiku , and awaydown in a corner

,ha lf a mile from the “ hovel

,

” theduck-pond .

Here we gathered after lunch. There must have

262 THE HEART OF J APAN

been a couple of hundred ducks in the pond , butthere was quite room enough for them, and evidentlythey had not lacked for sustenance. I f they hadwished to seek for better board and lodgings elsewhere they could not do so, for the pond was ina cage.Two of Kuro’s helpers entered this cage as we

arrived,and stepped into small punts. Then they

poled along the edge of the pond and raised severalgates

,which opened into canals leading out from the

cage in various directions . Kuro gave each of us anet on the end of a pole

,much like a fisherman’

s

landing-net, and stationed us at points on oppositesides of the canals . When we were in position hecalled out “ Yoroshiii !

” and a great quacking andfluttering began . The men in the punts drove theducks as best they might up to the gates and throughinto the canals . I t was not an easy job for thedrivers, for many of the birds were shy of the openings, but enough came through to keep us men busywith our nets .Our trick was to land them either as they swam

,or

on the wing as they rose out of the canals . The easeand the difficulty of doing this depend much on thedepth and the width of the canal

,on the netter’s

skill , and on the ducks . There were seven of us , andwe caught between forty and fifty before sundown.

Some we put back in the cage again,and the others

we in due course incorporated . Kuro had given hissteward a word before we came down to the pond ,with the result that when we reached the housewith our bags the “ hovel ” looked more like the


You see the ducks come up this way in the morning and from the opposite direction in the evening.

They always go over these hills. I t has been theircustom ever since the hills were here . Our plan fortheir capture is simply to intercept them . I willexplain better to-night, when several of my friendswill be here from the Duck Club that has leasedthese hills. Watching them , and trying as they try,will soon teach you al l there is to know. You seethese numbers on the posts. They correspond withnumbers on l ittle wooden tickets which the membershave. A member has the same ticket for two mornings and two nights

,then he changes with another

member—and / so'

on in rotation,so that no one

member may have too many chances at a goodstand or too many absences of chances at a poorstand .

About four o’clock that afternoon twenty of us setout, all in native dress, with straw sandals, strawrain-coats, straw leggings , and huge straw hats l ikeumbrellas, that fitted to our heads with a bambooframework and tied under our chins. When squattedon the ground we looked like small ricks of straw thatnot even a duck would suspect. Our weapons lookedl ike fish-poles , but they were not . They ,

were slendermasts on which we hung nets

,much as the square sails

are rigged to the mast of a ship. We set out withour poles over our shoulders

,like a band of spearmen

in feudal times, and with a half-dozen attendants withstacks of lacquered boxes ful l of things the kitchenfolk had been preparing all the day.

“ When you see the ducks,

” said Kuro,after we had

THE SPORTSMAN IN J APAN 265

taken our places,get your pole ready to toss up

,and

be sure you don’t have the edge of the net turned

towards the birds . Have it spread out wide, andthrow it square in front of them. As soon as you canjudge their speed and direction you’l l be al l right.There they come ! Be ready.

”

We were all crouched low with our hands on ourpoles

,and a minute later the air was full of nets and

a tremendous clatter of quacks . Four nets had beensuccessful

,and had performed the act of interception

to a nicety. One of the nets went far afield,how

ever,it having met a duck that was a drake

,and a

right lusty one he was,for he gave the attendants a

chase of over a mile. I learned how not to throwsideways, and once came very near landing a beauty.

Gardner had actual ly caught a drake,while Kuro had

three and uncle five,the largest number anyone had

,

but luck had favoured him with a “ double,

” a veryrare occurrence

,—one bird fol lowing another directly

into the net.The next day Kuro said , Suppose we go over to

Noto and shoot some ‘yama kuj ira.

’ There’s goodpheasant shooting too. The farmers would be grateful to you for kill ing kuj ira, for they do so muchdamage to the crops . I t’s a wheat country over there

,

you see, and the fields have fences al l about to keepthe kuj ira out. You

’

l l seldom see a fence on farmsanywhere else in Japan . We can put up at Hongwanj i temples . I know some of the priests. Infact some of them are relations of mine

,and you

being a foreigner will be doubly welcome. Most ofNoto has never seen a foreigner.


All the time he was talking, Gardner and I hadbeen wondering what “ yama kuj ira

” could mean .

Kuj rra meant whale and yama meant mountain .

What could whales be doing in wheat - fields or onmountains ? Impossible

,of course. So I said

“ Kuro,my honourable friend, you have deigned

to make the august joke.”

“ What ! you don’t know mountain whale ? heasked.

“ That is very famous wherever there isBuddhism in Japan . I t is an old name

,fifteen

hundred years perhaps. The first Buddhist priestshere tired of the same kind of fish and vegetablesevery day without any meat, and one of them discovered a way to escape from so much monotony.

‘It is wrong to eat flesh,’ he said

,

‘but to eat whaleis lawful . We will cal l deer mountain whale andthen we may eat venison as much a s we like.

’ Sohe began , and many others followed his example.Noto proved to be as interesting as Kuro had

suggested .

“ Whales ” were plentiful,and pheasants

also,while the Hongwanj i p riests offered us more

hospitality than it was possible to accept. Everytemple we came to had a matsuri on the day of ourarrival . We had never seen so many festivals consecutively. I t was Kuro’s doing, I fancy, though hewould not own up to it. From Noto we went upinto the mountains and tried for bear and wild boar.We had some luck with them and plenty of excitement. Some of the native hunters are extremelyskilful with their spears . We met one who had runas high as sixty for his winter’s work .

New Year saw us in Tokio,but we came back to


means of reins of spruce fibre, guided them , yell ingand splashing at them with sticks, disentanglingthem when they got too badly mixed up, and unloading them when their pouches were quite fi l led . Eachbird had a ring round its neck which prevented itswallowing al l but the smaller fishes, and a bandround its body with a handle at the top with whichto lift it in and out o f the water. The men with thereins had their hands full, for they had sixteen hungry,excited birds to manage which dived and flopped insixteen directions at once. The fire at the bow wasthe bait that brought the fish to the surface of thewater in reach of the fatal beaks which gobbled themin at an astounding rate—the birds averaging over ahundred fishes an hour for the three hours we wereout. Kuro was in great glee, for the weird appealsto him .

“ If we could only photograph by torchlight

,

” he cried . But there was -not much of thedefiniteness required in a p icture. The water wasdark, and the birds were dark all but their necks .The men handling the birds were merely silhouettedagainst the beacon . What light there was was fitful

,

and cast the blackest of shadows,that lost themselves

in the near distance . We ourselves could not see thefish till the cormorants brought them up. We had afine mess by the time we had gone the course

,and

were thoroughly gratified with our experience,but

personally I should rather keep hounds than cormorants

, having a prejudice against some odours.The monkeys were the easiest game imaginable.The weapon used has laid many a good man low

,

but it is not a gun—it is saké. Monkeys like saké

CHAPTER XXX IV

THE FATHER OF THE VILLAGE 1

T is hard to give up the fine things one is goingto do —to leave the “ big road ” and hide one’s

self among the bypaths,but it is harder to give Up

what one has already accompl ished—the thing thatis done

,which is a real possession ; to give up the

fruits of a long l ife ; to lay aside a just reward whenage has come upon one and it is too late to beginagain .

But in Japan men can do this . Here is an instance.Gardner, Okashi, and I heard it one night froman aged fisherman whose grandfather was among thesaved . I t is the story of an old man who gave upwhat he had to save others

,and afterwards the people

worshipped him . The fisherman said the birth ofthis old hero was at a time of good omen.

“ Shiawase no hito al l the women said so,and

they knew everything there was to know about1 The actual occurrence this story describes tells something of the

native character. Lafcadio Hearn, whose wonderful sympathy withthe Far East has given him so clear an insight to the soul of Japan, aswell as a knowledge of the mind and of the spiritual aspirations of the

people altogether unique, has used the incident in another guise in a

delightful chapter.

THE FATHER OF THE VILLAGE 27 1

babies . Therefore was it true that the small,

wrinkled,redd ish thing given to the house of

Hamaguchi early one morning, ere the great roundharvest moon had set

,was lucky. To be born by the

l ight of the harvest moon is to be favoured of thegods . “ I i ambai

,

” said the old women ;“ the way

that is well -which was the whole truth . Afterthat each household in the hamlet understood thenewcomer was shiawase no hito (one of those whoare fortunate).Hamaguchi no Bochan was a rare baby. Not

because he seldom cried—al l Japanese babies are toohappy to cry ; nor because he was gentle, for in th ishe was l ike al l other merry, almond-eyed youngstersin the land where the sun rises ; nor was it becausehe never had the col ic

,nor fussed about h is teeth

,nor

kept a maid busy putting things right and cleaningup round the house and grounds wherever he hadbeen . He was just l ike the other Japanese babies inthese things too. But he had a baby dignity andwisdom that marked him .

He had as much fun as the jolliest of his playmates

,who numbered probably a hundred . He was

in all the games,and in all the mischief too ; but

somehow he was there as master,one whom the rest

acknowledged . He d id not squabble . Not evenwhen he came to be a big boy

,large enough to

stand up with an oar in the sharp-pointed fishingboats , did he order others about ; but, nevertheless,the others did as he wished , and they l iked to do so.

I t is not strange then that when he had grown to bea manand was the head of the Hamaguchi household ,


the people of the vi l lage made him choj a —that is,

chief or mayor.As a husbandman he prospered . He raised ricefor the villagers, whose chief business was on the sea ,and they paid him in kind , for money was scarce inthose days. What there was, was most ly in the *

strong box of the daimiyo of the province. This .

daimiyo owned all the villages within the boundaries of his dominion . The rice the farmers raised

,

and all the fish that men caught in their nets werehis. Whatever portion he was pleased to allow themthey took , and the rest he held as taxes to maintainhimself

,his castles

,and his fighting-men.

The head of the house of Hamaguchi grew rice onthousands of tsubo of the daimiyo

’

s land,and paid

him many koku of his produce at harvest-time intithes and rents and tributes , but the koku thatremained to the choja were more than the portion ofany other person in the village. A koku of rice inthose days was wel l-nigh the year’s income of somefolk

,though it seems hard a man should have to l ive

twelve months on what he can sell five bushel s ofgrain for in the market.Choja Sama was generous w ith his abundance

,and

gave freely to those who had not ; so freely, indeed,that at each year’s end when the day of accountingcame he found he had used al l the yielding of hisfields—the greater part had gone to the daimiyo andthe rest to his household and to the other villagers .This was so

,no matter how large the harvest

might be,but it did not matter

,Choja Sama did not

think of it. He was a favoured one. Always , both


Gods of Wealth and P lenty—corpulent deities withfat ears, koku of rice stacked high, and piles of goldpieces.The fishermen and the few who were farmers

,with

their wives and families,and the s inging and dancing

girls, or geisha, were making merry within and roundabout their sacred tera

,high above the beach

,when

someone cried, Chotto go ran nasai ! Shiwo ga hikutaihen desu !” (

“ Look for a moment,the tide is

gone far out l ”) And so it was,and seemed going

farther sti ll . Everyone arose,and

,after wondering

for a moment,ran down to the beach below and far

out towards the receding waters .That is

,everyone went down but Choja Sama.

He was old,and besides he knew something of low

tides and that they boded il l for the coast where theyappeared .

“ This ebb was so very low,what would

the return of the waters be P he thought to himself.Though the moon was up

,that glorious golden

moon in the deep,full blue sky of Japan

,the sun

hardly had set,and the last rays stil l flitted l inger

ingly across the bosom of the sea. The old manlooked down and saw his people away out beyondthe natural limits of the beach. He could hear theirshouts and laughter—deafness is rare even with theaged in Japan—and his heart was heavy with fear.

He looked towards the spot where the sun had set,and away almost to the horizon

,it seemed, was a fine

strip of l ight that gl istened and moved towardshim .

Nami,he said

,

“ O nami . And so it was, a greatwave coming to the shore, a wave so great it had

THE FATHER OF THE VILLAGE 275

sucked the sea away from the land and piled it up ina wal l l ike a mountain range. It was a tidal-wave,such as an earthquake beneath the waters of theocean makes s ometimes and sends against the coastto sm ite it as the very wrath of God .

This is what Choja Sama saw,and he saw, too,

that before he could climb down with his aged l imbsand reach his people to give them warning, thatawful wall of water would be upon them and theywould be lost. There was no time to think—onlyto act.He was standing by the house in which he had

lived since he was born . A lmost touching the walls,

on the windward side,were the stacks of rice his

sons and their helpers had finished harvesting theday before. There were the portions for the lordof the province and for his own use and for theneedy ones . Al l of this he must have

,to settle the

accounts of the business of the year. To have thisgrain threshed and safely in the village warehousemeant prosperity and comfort ; but in a moment itwas crackl ing fiercely

,blazing high over the hil ltop

,

and sending a glare down upon the startled vil lagersbelow, who turned together as one person and rushedlandward, looking up and crying that their chojawas burning in his house and must be saved .

Great was their amazement when they reachedthe hilltop to see the old man standing by watching the fire calmly as it consumed his home andthe produce of his fields—leaving him without aroof to shelter him and making him a debtor to hislord for the remainder of his years . A charred


bamboo pole was in his hands,which he had used

to feed the flames. The people thought him mad .

He had not looked up at their coming,so busy

he had been,but now he turned toward them and

pointed to the sea. They were dumb,but had they

all cried at once, and to their utmost, their voiceswould not have sounded even in their own ears . Thewaters had returned, and the crested wave, reachingup thirty feet above the beach

,had broken

,washing

away the fishers’ huts along the shore as housesbuilt of cards would go. It receded and returned,and again drew back to flood a third time. Whenit had finished this last assault

,night was upon the

place and the village had disappeared . The harvestmoon looked down on a place where one had been,and on a crowd of frightened fisherfolk huddledround the ruins of the home of an old man for whom,

later,when they had recovered from their wonder

and had mortgaged their belongings,they built a

temple and worshipped as Hamaguchi Daimiyoj in.

So was he,even at the last

,

“shiawase no hito.”


them up there nearly three hundred years ago,quite

out of harm ’s way you would think.

”

Yes, I remember you pointed out the fish al ittle before we reached Nagoya Station on our waythrough ; but tell us about Daredesuka and his sweetheart. What did they do ?

“ Daredesuka was a samurai who had been withthe daimiyo of Kaga once, and had won fame as agreat swordsman . But when the daimiyo diedDaredesuka became ronin that is

,a samurai with

out a master. He went about teaching fencing, andsometimes winning prizes in contests before distinguished folk , but never getting established anywhere. He was too fond of roaming. He used topractise with his sword on all the forked limbs oftrees that he could reach

,and also on the wild dogs

that are as dangerous as wolves on the west coastroads. I t is said that once when robbers tried totake him he cut through two bodies with a singlestroke

,and that the other robbers seeing this ran away

,

crying that he was an Oni (demon)not a man .

“ In time he came to Kiyoto , which was a largercity then, and was the home of the Tenshi, ourEmperor. The Shogun lived in Yedo—this was along time before the name was changed to Tok io.

Soon after Daredesuka arrived , the Shogun camedown to Kiyoto to see the Tenshi. He had tocome once a year, according to ancient custom . Ofcourse this meant a great deal of preparation . Theceremonies were elaborate

,and the court nobles,

who usually were poor,made money by teaching

the proper etiquette to the Shogun’s officers . Geisha

THE THEFT OF THE GOLDEN SCALE 279

were busy in all the tea-houses , and gathered goldpieces enough to last them a whole month, whichis a long time when speaking of geisha. There wereall sorts of sport too—polo, archery on horseback ,fencing

,and j iujutsu

,

’ which 18 a k ind of wrestl ing.

“ Daredesuka was the right kind of man for sucha time. He went into many contests and won sooften that the people talked about him in the streets.Because he was a winner he became the guest atmany banquets

,and did not have to buy any food

himself for several weeks . At the banquets he sawmany geisha

,who came to dance and to sing and

to play,just as they are doing over yonder now

pointing to a tea-house all open on one side alongthe river bank.

“ Being a m il itary man , Daredesuka did not caremuch for geisha. He had the name of a strict andsevere man . One night, however, at a chaya justat the end of this bridge, the most famous tea-houseof all in Kiyoto, Daredesuka changed his idea.

“ E ikibo San was the cause of the change. Shewas a geisha who did the fan dancrng most famously,and was never engaged except in the best housesand by the richest guests . When Daredesuka sawher danc ing he could not look from her. She swayedthis way and that way gently as a l ily when theautumn wind is blowing, and her fan went roundher l ike a butterfly that she had trained . Her facewas white except the colour of cherry blossoms onthe cheeks

,and her eyebrows high as in the pictures

on these fans . Her hands were long and fine, and

waved l ike birds’ wings when she turned about,play


ing and tossing with the fan . So long and so hardwas Daredesuka looking that the soups and fishesthe other geisha were serving to him became quitecold

,and some of the guests near by were wondering.

Then one o f these said“ ‘You have never seen E ikibo San before ? She

is our best dancer. Even the Shogun,they say

,has

seen her. Many men have tried to take her home,

but she does not listen . She has no lover. She

l ives with an old aunt, as she cal ls her, in the geishaquarter

,and never leaves the old woman alone for

a single night,nor does she ever respond to any

callers who go there to give her presents. Thesegift-bearers talk with the old aunt at the gate

,but

no one of them has ever had his foot inside.’

This,if it could be

,made Daredesuka even keener

,

so that when the fan dancing was over and Eikibocame round to do her turn at pouring sak é

,beginning

before him as the chief guest, he said she must firstdrink from his cup

,and might afterwards serve him .

She took the dainty bit of porcelain from him,and

bowing low,touched it to her forehead . Then

Daredesuka poured saké from the china bottle infront of him

,but could give her only a few drops

,as

she pushed the mouth of the bottle up with the edgeof the cup

,saying,

‘More would be a great deal .’

She made as though she drank it, but one could nottell

,for the geisha is skilful to pretend. Then

,before

she could rinse the cup,Daredesuka took it from her

and said,

‘Ippai dozo gomen nasai’

(‘Full please

and excuse me

“ E ik ibo laughed because he did not let her rinse


of saké. She would apologise and say that therewere many guests and too few to wait on them,

therefore she must not stay long. After the Shogunhad set out on his return to Yedo, Daredesuka calledthe geisha several times from a quiet tea-house downthe river

,but only once she came

,for her engagements

almost never failed . Her name was on some listsfor months ahead.

“ As soon as the maids had brought refreshmentsand retired he made an offer to her which almostalways a geisha will accept. She should be his wife.He would take service with some quiet daimiyowithin the next six months

,and she would then be

in the highest of the four classes of society and ranking almost as one of the nobility. He told her ofoffers he had received and had refused because hecould not bear to leave her

,and said he would accept

whichever one she chose if she would come withhim.

E ikibo laughed at all this, being, she said, famil iarwith fine promises . ‘They are all of a kind ,

’ shetold him ;

‘interesting to hear,if you did not know

they were like little flies that l ive a day and then noone knows what has become of them .

’

Daredesuka

persisted,but only to find that words did not avail.

At last he criedGive me some test

,for I must have you know

that I speak truth . Shall I bring you pearls fromthe deep sea or golden scales from the dolphins onNagoya Castle ? Only say the thing and I shall doit. You shal l bel ieve me.’

E ikibo looked merrily at him ,and said

THE THEFT OF THE GOLDEN SCALE 283

Yes,I must believe you if you bring me a

dolphin’s golden scale from the ridge of the fifthstorey of the tower, as I know well, for I am inNagoya every year. Only the birds go Up there.Yes

,I should know you spoke the truth if you

brought the scale and she laughed again , for to thegeisha the truthful parents of the truthful man arenot yet born . Then she added : My call time forthe Full Moon tea-house over the river has arrived .

I beg your honourable pardon . I must go . At thegreat matsuri ’ (religious festival)

‘in Nagoya nextmonth I am to dance. Bring me the scale then

,and

I shall know your heart.’

“ Daredesuka sat stil l for an hour thinking,and

then,as the samurai often did on the night before

the battle,he clapped his hands, ordered more saké

and more food,sent to an inn near by for a friend

who was lodging there, and made merry until thewatch announced the hour for clos ing. Two nightslater he was in Nagoya .

As you know, those gold fishes are high up,and

perhaps you could see that each is now in a heavycage. That cage was not there in Daredesuka

’

s time.You know

,too

,that we Japanese enjoy our play with

kites . We can send them very high and can guidethem nicely. Well , Daredesuka was a wonderful manwith kites . He had made large ones when he waswith his late lord , and had once dropped a line farout over a j unk that was blowing o ff to sea, and sosaved many l ives. He now said he would use a kiteto get the scale that E ikibo had declared would tel lif he spoke true. Secretly he went to work

,and


made one so large he was sure it would carry theweight of his body on the wind . He found anotherronin whom some gold and the promise of futureaid persuaded to give him help in his strange plan .

Then on a stormy night, with wind and clouds and rain ,he went up and secured a golden scale. But the toolhe had used in prying was very wet and slippery andfel l from his hands . The guards went out and discovered the kite, which a rift in the sky let the moonshine down upon for a fatal moment

,and when he

reached the earth they caught him and put him inprison . The golden scale convicted him and hiscompanion . Being samurai they received sentenceto comit hara-kiri, and they performed the act serenelybefore the State offi cials .

“ E ik ibo did not do the fan dance at the matsuri,for on the morning of the day she was to appear anold priest found her body on Daredesuka

’

s grave.”


Greek cathedral . He was kanj i , or businessmanager, of this school.

“ Perhaps the school is looking for a teacher,I

said to myself. “ I should like to see it.” I knewSurugadai. I t was about the highest point in Tokio.

From the scaffolding of the cathedral I had seen theentire capital by merely turning on my heel andlooking straight before me. Even the province ofSuruga, ninety miles away, was visible. Hence thename “ Saruga-dai,

” or terrace. Really I hoped thekanj i wished to engage me.As I went down I heard more clatter

,but I soon

ascertained it was only the honourable guest callingfor tobacco

,which the areverend owner of the house, in

violence'

to the custom of the country, had neglectedto put on his free l ist.Looking through the door of the reception-room I

Spied the kanj i s itting on his shins amongst thechairs

,which seemingly he disdained, looking about

for the tobacco jar that was not there,and pounding

a footstool the while to attract the attention of someone who might minister to his wants.May I have the honour to be of service to you ?

I ventured .

“ I wish smoking,he replied ; and then jump ing up

he put out his hand , sayingHow do you do I am very well I thank you yes

sir I think so mysel f. Which was rather good for onebreath . Then he replenished himself w ith air by anindrawn hiss that must have appropriated a good twogallons of the Tsukij i atmosphere. Hand ing him acigar I waited for him to continue the conversation

THE KANJ I 287

which he had begun so cleverly himself, but he neededa match first

,and then a clip to bite the top off with

,

and a tip as to which end to bite, before he could goon . He was not quite into New Japan yet, thoughhe had made some progress in getting out of theOld .

Sir,he said at last

,our name are Oj lgoku

Kitsune. Our business are the Kanj i of Atamano Nakakara school on Surugadai

’

s top and ourdesire is you come every days for the teaching bythe English languages and the improvement to themind for the many scholars and female ladies andboy. Then he hissed in air again .

By the way his words came out I was sure he hadwritten them down and committed them to memory.

I was right,for here he hesitated and began feeling

in his pockets for his crib.

” I t took him some timeto find it

,and as he searched I inventoried his appear

ance. His face was stubbly and suggestive of a fox ,his eyes rounder and a trifle l ighter than is usualwith Japanese

,and his hair was of the same length

al l over,and stuck out straight from his head l ike

fretful quills. This was due to much early shavingof the poll .His coat was of the full frock

,or “ Prince A lbert

cut,the material was alpaca. When he unbuttoned

it he discovered a waistcoat suitable for evening dress,

and also the upper half of a shirt-front to which theingenious constructer thereof had affixed a collar anda bright green tie . The tie had worked round underthe coat collar or I might have noticed it before.

What was between him and that shirt-front I could


only guess. I t might have been a l iver pad withsleeve attachments. His trousers were linen

,but

whether the right leg or the left leg preserved theoriginal shade I could not say. There was a markeddifference between the two. As he had taken o ff hisshoes on entering the house I noticed that he woremittens on his feet.When he had found his crib he puckered up hismouth again and said

“ How do you do—er O ah—no, I am mistaken .

He had started at the beginning again,like an inter

rupted cathedral guide. Farther down he found theplace

,and read

“ The hour shall be paid the dollar and the trans

portation to the school and to the house. A dollaran hour and a j in-riki-sha from home to school andback again is what he meant. I did not agree toquite those terms

,but eventually I said I would visit

Surugadai to promote the knowledge among all thestudents

,including and boy.

”

When I said I would go, he replied“ Yes

,I think so myself.” Then putting on his

hat,a fore - and - aft arrangement l ike an inverted

pram,he pushed his mittens into his shoes

,

pocketed his cigar,and disappeared .

While at tiffin two days later, Seikichi announced“ Jin-riki-sha from Surugadai.He smiled as he spoke

,and I understood when I

was outside . There was the man-power-cart, all butthe man . Instead of man there was a midget of thesize the factories pay a penny a day for now. Quiteuseless for a grade either up or down, for he weighed


Yes, but the man being only the small boy by thelong distances are very tiresome.

“ He is resting while I am in the shops,I said ,

and Ginza is not a very indirect route home.“ But he wishes times for eatings or he catch the

stomach illness .”

I give him eggs , won’t they do ? I asked .

Here the kanj i disappeared for a few minutes.When he returned he saidHonourable egg are good but it is necess ity for

the fish and rice.”

But you did not mention fish and rice nor say Ishould feed the infant when you engaged me.”

Yes,but he have the unhealth and are not power

fu l to transport the long d istances.”

Get a man then .

”

Here the kanj i made another d isappearance. Oncoming out again he said

“ Sir,every days four sen ( 1d .)you are giving for

the eating and we are adjust.“ But I understood you to say that the infant hasthe unhealth .

”

“ Yes,

” repl ied the kanj i ,“ but he have become

strong.

”

I had nothing to say.

A ll went we ll until the end of the month, when thepayment agreed upon was due me. The kanj i cameinto the classroom and said

“ The money is come to-morrow by the bank for

closing is too early to day.

” The bank clos ing, he

meant.“ You will come to Tsukij i ?

THE KANJ I 29 1

Oh,I am doubtless . I am Christian .

Yes ? You had not told me so before . I shallbe away by nine o’clock . Will you call earlier ? ”

“ I before nine time—sure .

”

The bank will be open before nine o ’clockYes

,the bank is close perhaps but we shall do

the arrangement by the night .”

Well,in the morning the kanj i came : alpaca

frock-coat,green tie

,inverted pram

,and all—all but

my salary,that is . He said he had started out with

the ful l amount,but on the way down he saw some

things he needed,and therefore we are spend parts .

I am return it pleasantly.

”

(Meaning presently, forhe had learned the sound of “ l and

,being proud of

the accompl ishment rather overworked it .)“ Yes

,

” I replied,perhaps you will

,but I shal l be

at Surugadai this afternoon and shal l see the Principal .Perhaps he wil l arrange the matter.The kanj i smiled and went away. I never saw

h im again,but Atama no Nakakara made good his

deficit.

CHAPTER XXXV I I

THE REVERENCE OF KATO

OR a man to reverence his father and hismother is a grand thing. In the Far East the

fifth commandment is the law of laws ; folk obey itwith a fervour that Westerners can hardly understand .

Their zeal calls to mind one of Freeman’s wordsanent the chivalry o f knights who made arbitrarychoice of some one virtue which they practised withsuch enthusiasm that it became a vice

,while they

neglected the ordinary laws of right and wrongentirely.

In China, for example, the“ great calam ity is

that ancestors should lack descendants to do themhonour. This idea led long ago to plural wives andthe devil in the household.

” In Japan ancestorsand even step-ancestors came to be supreme. A l lother relations were trifling compared to the attitudeof son to father

,and an Abraham offering up Isaac

would be a small matter beside some acts of “ fi l ialpiety ” in the Land of the Rising Sun

,for a Japanese

has sacrificed not only a son but his whole familyand himself to do the bidding of his adopted father.The story will show this better than a volume

292


delicate and beautiful in design and of exquisiteglaze.This glaze was the cause of Kato’s discontent.

Tsugane San had just returned from his voyageround Cape Shiwo to Osaka

,where he went each

year to visit the great bazaars,which at that time

were the largest in the Empire,and to dispose of the

product of the Seto kilns,and had brought back

with him these tea-bowls.They were so good they worried the young potter.He would pause

,fire-tongs in hand , every moment

or two,pick up one o f the bowls , hold it between his

eye and the light,put a coal close to it to study the

glow reflected from the surface,rub it along his

sleeve,touch it gingerly with the tip of his tongue

as though to taste the deep rich colour under theglaze

,tap it very

,very gently with one of the long tips

,

and then set it down again and become absorbed inthe arrangement of the fire.

Tsugane San came in shortly and seated himselfupon a square cushion on the opposite side of thehibachi . He pulled the tea-tray towards him

,and

taking the tall blue cup—the master’s cup—poured alittle hot water in it and replaced it on the tray.

Opening an air-tight canister which had a lid with arim quite half as deep as the canister’s entire heighthe took out two pinches of tea

,dried leaves of a

deep dull green that had never suffered from otherheat or chemical process than the sun’s rays effect.The two pinches went into the “ k ibisho

,

” or smallporcelain teapot. Next he poured boiling waterfrom the tetsubin,

” the iron tea-kettle,into a sort of

THE REVERENCE OF KATO

gravy boat,where it must cool a bit, lest it make the

brew astringent. Replac ing the tea-kettle on thebraz ier

,he turned the moderated boil ing water on

the leaves,let it stand perhaps a m inute, and pouring

a tiny cup half full for Kato San, his cup full forhimself

,drank the sherry-coloured liquor slowly with

a sound somewhere between a kiss and a sigh.

Kato San drank with him , and when he had donethe master said

As for those tea-bowls from Osaka, what do youthink ?

“ Augustly beautiful , repl ied Kato,using the

honorific form ,out of the respect a pupil should

always show to his master.“ Yes

,beautiful they are. Too beautiful for Osaka

—too beautiful for Seto. They are from far south,as

you see by their bottoms, from Arita and Karatsu,

in the province of Hizen , where the Prince of Satsumasettled some Koreans a hundred years ago and madethem teach the natives many things about enamels .There is good stone there for porcelain

,and the ports

of Karatsu and of Imari , where the Dutch send everyyear for wares

,has become as famous in Kiushiu as

our Seto is in the remainder of Dai N ippon . Infact

,those southerners cal l everything of clay

,

Karatsumono . They are pushing their wares northnow. I had a hard time sel ling in Osaka this visit

,

and all because those low Koreans whom we conquerso easily whenever we cross the channel had a secretabout glaze which they were fools enough to tell thepotters in Hizen .

“ Honourably augustly so it contemptibly deigns


to be,said Kato San , inclining his head and bending

forward .

“ We must discover that secret, continued the

master.To which Kato San assented with more honorifics

and inclinations.In Osaka I saw a nakado (middleman)who has

gone to Hizen to arrange for a marriage with thedaughter of the chief of the Arita Guild . It will costall of the year’s profits and something besides

,but

we shall lose our face if we do not discover the secretof the glaze.

”

Respectful acquiescence as before.“ From what I learned through Nakado San I amconfident of success . He will be here within a fewdays and will return with you directly

,for it is a long

journey and I would have you be there before thenext firing of the kilns.This was the first intimation of Tsugane San

’sscheme that had reached Kato San ; it was in factthe first time the subject of marriage had been ment ioned to him ,

but he bowed quite as reverently asbefore and ejaculated honorifics in the same deferential tone. On his countenance there was no sign thathe had just heard he was to go to a strange countrythere to marry a strange woman whose speech evenwould be unintelligible. But Japanese surprise

,if

there is such a thing, is purely internal . Tsugane

San had made arrangements, and that was theaffair in a nutshell . Why discuss matters that arealready settled ?In due course Nakado San appeared with a letter


years afterwards,and into the “ Genkai Nada (the

Watchful Sea), to Karatsu, where the men of Aritamet them as Nakado San had arranged .

As Kato San had left his own home and was coming to the bride’s house to become a member of herfamily

,which is j ust the reverse ofwhat usually occurs

when young folks marry in Japan,and as

,further

more,the homes of bride and bridegroom were far

apart, as distances went in those days, the Nakadoaltered the ordinary arrangements to suit the circumstances . Hé arranged the mi-ai (mutual seeing orfirst look)to take place in rooms he had rented nearArita for the purpose. I t was satisfactory, of course,it always is with dutiful children in Japan

,and in

those days before knowledge of Western ways hadreached the country there was none other in Japan .

I t is true the young people sat at opposite sides ofthe room with many mats between them

,and that

neither ventured a word to the other directly,but

Kato’s fine features,his clear keen eye, as an artist

should have,and his erectness

,all of which O Tsuru

San saw without looking at their possessor,put her

into a most pleasurable confusion while as for Katohimself

,he looked directly at O Tsuru as she came

in,and from that moment forgot his home-sickness

entirely.

The ceremony of “ San San Kudo (Three ThreeN ine Times)where bride and bridegroom go throughthe form of exchanging each of three saké cups threetimes

,and drinking

,was in the bride’s house two days

later,where Kato took the name of H igashidori

from his father-ln-law,whose son he now became, and

THE BEVERENCE OF KATO 299

was duly registered at the offi ce of the district by thecensus taker as Higashidori Tokuzayemon

, ch ief ofthe Arita Guild of Potters .I t seems that Rei Sampei had just discovered some

fine porcelain stone in Idzumi Yama, and the kilnshad better clay in them than they had ever knownbefore. H igashidori, too, had added to the knowledge the Koreans had brought over through hisdealings with the Dutch

,whom the Shogun al lowed

once a year to do a little business at Deshima,

Nagasaki. H is sk il l with red oxide of iron andwith Chinese and Dutch cobalt gave him the advantage that Tsugane Bunzaemon had envied so keenly.

Under the catalogue title Old H izen ,” in the Dresden

collection,one may see specimens of H igashidori

’

s

sk ill to-day.

Kato San,skilful as he was himself, marvelled at

the work of his new father and set about diligently toassist him . Being a potter born and bred

,he was

soon in love with his occupation,almost half as much

as he was with his wife, which is saying a great deal .H igashidori smiled as he watched his son, andthought what a fine man he would be when agecame on and it was time for the headship of theguild to pass on to one of a younger generation .

I shal l be ink iyo (retired)then ,” he said to him

self,

“ and Kintaro wil l have the kilns and wil l bechief in my stead . He will be worthy of our name.”

When , a year later, 0 Tsuru San presented herhusband with a son the old chief’s countenance waslighted with a joy that shone more brightly than thefinest vases he had ever made . The bond between


him and the son from far away was now complete,

and the honour of his house secure. He took Kintarointo his full confidence

,and the young man learning

rapidly was soon well-nigh as expert as the chiefhimself. His work delighted him ,

and his home,to

which two more children came in the next threeyears

,was all that a human heart could wish for. So

absorbed had he become in the development of theporcelains from the new-found stone

,that Seto and

the master waiting there were as dim shadows inhis mind

,if ever he thought of them at all .

But a stranger to Arita passed through one day,

leaving a written message with Kintaro,and affairs

changed . I t was from Tsugane Bunzaemon,the

master. Kintaro turned to stone on reading it. I twas a clear, fine day, but he did not know it. A fewfeet from him two of his children were playing atbattledore and shuttlecock

,he did not hear them .

On the mats just beyond the shallow grooves alongwhich the sl iding doors had been pushed back

,making

an entrance to the adjoining room, O Tsuru San sat

nursing the youngest of the three— a lovely pictureo f young motherhood , but Kintaro did not see.He folded the letter and went out and over to the

quarry,then he walked to the kilns

,and then—he

never knew himself where he wandered during thenext few hours

,but his thoughts were on the serving

of two masters,one whom he had forgotten and the

other whom he had come to look upon as in verytruth his father.

“ Yet he is not,he murmured to h imself. “ My

real father,who d ied when I was so young, gave me


Kato Tamak ichi—when the story reached him becamea raving maniac . In Seto his memory is sacred , forhe had obeyed the commands of the master to whomhis father had comm itted him . Fi lial piety had itsreward .

PRINTED BY

“ CRIMSON AND 6 18 3 L IMI TED , EDINB URGH

METHUEN’

S POPU NOVELSS PRING 1904

MESSRS . METHUEN‘

have‘

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publication of the follow ing Nove’

ls , .w ith their approx imate

dates o f is s ue. Notes on these Novels are g iven overleaf

SI X SH I LLI NGS EA CH

THE YELLOW DIAMOND ADELINE SERGEANTTHE AMER ICAN PR ISONER EDEN PH ILLPOTTSABANDONED W. CLARx RUSSELL .

A LOST E STATE MARY E. MANN,

GARNERED R ICHARD MARSHTHE ROYAL QUAKER .

A CHANGE OF FACE THOMAS COBBDAVID MARCH . J . S. FLETCHERTHE RED LEAGUERS . SHAN F. BULLOCKTHE TRAGEDY OF THE GREAT

EMERALDTHE PR INCE OF LISNOV ERA WOMAN OF SENT IMENTTHE LADY ELECTRA

THE W OMAN W ITH THE FAN

MADE OE MONEY

THE SEA COULD TELL

THE vorce IN THE DE SERT

A ,NEW NOVELDEEP SEA VAGABONDSTHE HuNCHBAcx OF WESTM IN

STER . W I LLIAM LE QuEUx M ay 96

PAT IENCE DEAN'AGNES GROZIER HEREERTSON June 9

AW INTER’

S TALE MARY E . MANN June 30

A MODERN MASQUER JOHN OXENHAM

METHUEN CO 36

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WEATHERBY CHESNEYGRACE REV SANN IE LINDENROBERT BARRROBERT H ICHENSDOROTHEA GERARDMRS . C.

‘N . WILL IAMSONPAULINE BRADFORD MACK I E .

BERTRAM M ITFORDALBERT SONN ICHSEN

MESSRS . METHUEN’

S NEW NOVELS

THE WOMAN WITH THE FAN. By ROBERT HICHENS , Author ,of ‘Felix ,

’

etc .

Astudy of a modern woman, beaut ifu l , scept ical , at first frivolous In mind., She

has the power of a ttracting the lovers of beau ty, and not only the lovers of ou tward

beau ty, bu t alsothose who care for the subt le charm that emanates from a temperamenttofiched with magic. Such a temperament she seems to h int at when she s ings , bu tin her

'conversation, in the actions of her l ife, it is seldom or never apparent. ’

She is

therefore something of an enigma to many peop le. Fate strikes her to the dust , andin the dust she finds herself, the woman who scarcely bel ieved in her own ex istence,ti ll she came face to face wi th despa ir.

‘

THE SEA COULD TELL. By Mrs . C . N. WILLIAMSON.

Th is story opens w ith a mystery which the w il iest Sherlock Holmes among novelreaders cou ld scarcely unravel t il l the end . The heroine w ith her mi l l ionaire fatherand his secretary are yachting in the Med iterranean. They come u pon a sailing yachtwhich is behaving s trangely. The men board her, and d iscover that she 15 deserted.

Her boats are in place, the deck l ights burning, the table set for d inner with a goldservice, the mea l evidently interrupted in the midst ; in the staterooms clothing and

j ewellery ; withal no sign of fighting ‘or violence of any kind . How and why did the

yacht become derel ict ? That is the mystery which, w ith othermysteries aris ing fromit, can only be solved towards the close of the book , which is a strong love s tory as

wel l as a tale of adventure.

MADE OF MONEY . t By .DOROTHEA

'

GERARD .

Another mill ionaire story ; but written from another point of view . We general lyhear only of the del ights of be ing rich here we are shown the darker side which even

that brigh t medal possesses. The psychology of the rich man has rarely been stud iedin qu ite th is fash ion. Harold Gibson’

s descent to the verge of a hopeless cynicism,

and his res“

cue from that hel l upon earth,—by a woman’

s hand, of course, though not the

woman he loves',—present an absorb ing character study.

THE V OICE“

IN THE DESERT : By PAULINE BRADFORD MACKIE(Mrs . HERBERT MULLER HOPKINS), Author of ‘Ye Lyttle SalemMa ide,

’

Mademoiselle de Bery,’

and The Washington ians .

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A NEW NOV EL. By BERTRAM M ITFORD,Author of ‘The Sign

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DEEP SEA V AGABONDS . ALBERT SONNICHSEN , Able Seaman,

Author o f Ten Months a

B

aptive Among the Filipinos .

’

THE HUNCHBACK OF WESTMINSTER . By WILLIAM LE

QUEUx .

PATIENCE DEAN. A Study In Temperament and Temptation . ByAGNES GROZ IER HERBERTSON .

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MARY E . MANN ’S NOV ELS.

A New and Uniform Ed ition o f E ight Novels which have been out o f

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26 METHUEN’

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PART IL— FICT IONMarie Gorelh s Novels.

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A ROMANCE OF TWO WORLDS.

Tw en ty-Fou rthE d i tion .

V ENDETTA . N ineteen t/z. E d i tion .

THELMA. Tw en ty-N in tnE d i tion .

ARDATH : THE STORY OF A DEADSELF. F our teen tnE d i tion .

THE SOUL OF LILITH . Tw elf th E di t.WORMWOOD. T/zir teen tft E d i tion .

B A R A B B A S : A D R E A M O F T H EWORLD ’

S TRAGEDY. Tnz'

rty-E zig/zt/z

E d i tion .

The tender reverence o f the t reatmen tand the imagina t ive beau ty o f the w r i t inghave reconciled us to the daring o f the'conception. Th is .

“ D ream o f the Wo rld ’sT ragedy is a lo fty and not inade ua teparaphrase o f the supreme cl imax 0 the

Inspired narrat ive.

’—D u é l z'

n R ev iew .

THE SORROWS OF SATAN . FortyS ix tizE d i tion .

‘A ve ry powerfu l piece of wo rk .

The concep t i on i s magn ifi cen t , and i s l Ikelyto w in an abid ing place w i th in the memo ryo f man . The au tho r has immense com

mand o f language , and a l im i tle ss audaci ty .

This inte res t ing and remarkable romancew il l l ive long afte r mu ch o f the epheme ra ll i tera tu re o f the day i s forgo t ten . A

l Iterary phenomenon novel , and even

subl ime.—W . T . STE AD in the R ev iew

of R ev iew s .

THE MASTER CHR IST IAN .

[ 1 65th T/zonsand.

‘I t canno t be den ied tha t “ The Mas ter

Chr is t ian 1’ i s a power fu l book that i t is onel ikely to raise uncomfor table ques t ion s inal l bu t the mos t self-sat isfied reader s , andtha t i t s t r ike s at the roo t o f the fa ilu re o fthe

,Chu rche s—the decay o f fa i th—in a

manne r wh ich show s the inevi table d isa sterheaping up The good Card ina l Rompreis a beau t ifu l figu re

,fi t to s tand bes ide the

good B ishop in Les M iserables .

” I t i s abook w i th a ser iou s pu rpo se exp res sed w i thabso lu te unconven t ional i ty and pas s ionAnd th i s i s to say it i s a book wor th reading.

’—E x am z’

ner.

TEMPORAL POWER : A STUDY IN

SUPREMACY.

[ rsotn Thousa nd .

I t i s impo s s ible to read such a wo rk as

Temporal Power w i thou t becom ing conv inced tha t the s tory i s in tended to conveycer tain C r i t ic isms on theways o f the wo rldand cer ta in sugges t ion s f or the be t te rment

t uman it The ch ie f characterist ics

o f the boo are an a t tack on conven t ionalp rejud ices and manners and on cer ta inractices at t r ibu ted to the Roman Chu rchthe l icy o f M . Combe s make s pa r t s o f thenove spec ia l ly up to da te), and

‘ the propound ing o f theor ies for the improvemen to f the socia l and pol i t ica l sys tem s. .

I fthe ch ief in ten t ion o f the book was to ho ldthe m irror up to Sham s , injus t ice , d ishonesty ,c ru el ty , and neglec t o f con science , no th ingbu t praIse can be given to that in tention.

’

M orn ing P os t.

Anthony HOpe’

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THE GOD IN THE CAR . N in t/t E d i tion .

A very remarkable book , ‘ desem ng.

o f

cri t ical analys i s impo ss ible w i th in our IIm It

br ill iant, bu t not superficia l ; wel l con

s idered , but not elabo ra ted ; cons tructedw i th the proverbial art tha t conceal s , bu tyet allow s i t sel f to be enj oyed by reade r sto whom fine l iterary . method i s a keenpleasu re .

’T/teWor ld .

A CHANGE OF AIR . S ix tk E d i tion .

‘A gracefu l, vivac iou s comedy, t rue to

human na tu re. Thebchar

o

acters are tracedw i th a mas terly hand .

—s me.1.

A MAN OF MARK. F if tlt E d i tion .

‘Of al l M r . Hope’s books , “ A Mano

of

Ma rk " i s the one wh ich be s t compares w i th

The Pr isoner of Zenda .

" —t iona l 06

TH E C H R ON I C L E S O F C OU N TANTON IO. F if tk E d i tion .

I t is a perfect ly enchan t ing s tory o f loveand ch iva l ry , and pure romance. The

Count is the most constan t , desperate, and

od oit .modes t and tende r of lovers , a peer lessgen tleman , an In t repid figh te r, a fa i thfu lfr iend , and amagnan imous foe .

’—Guard ian .

PHROSO. I llu s tra ted by H . R . M ILLAR .

S ix t/z E d ition .

The tale i s tho rough ly fresh , qu ick w i thvi tal i ty, s t irring the blood .

’—S t . j ames’

:

S IMON DALE . I llu s t ra ted. S ix t/zEd i tion .

‘There i s sea rch ing analys i s o f human

nature , w i th a most ingen iou s ly constructedplo t . M r . Hope has d rawn the contras t so f h is women w i th ma rvel lou s subtle ty and

d el icac Times .Y

THE KING’

S M IRROR . Fou rth E di tion .

‘In elegance , del icacy, and tac t i t rank sw i th the bes t o f h i s novel s , wh ile in thew iderange o f its por t ra i tu re and the subt i l tyo f its analys i s i t su rpas ses

,

al l his ear l ierventu re s . —Sj fiecta tor.

QU ISANTE . Fou r tk E di tion .

The book i s notable for a very h igh l i terary qual i ty, and an impre s s o f powe r andmas te ry on every page.

’—D a i ly Ckroniele.

MESSRS. METHUEN’

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MANY CARGOES. Tw en ty-Seven thE d i tion .

SEA URCH IN S. T( n th E d i tion .

A MASTER OF CRAFT. I llustrated .

‘Can be unreserved ly recommended to

al l who have not lost the ir appet ite f orwho lesome laughter.H—Sfiecta tor

‘The best humorous book publ ished formany a day.

—B lach and White.

Lucas 'Mal et’

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35. 6d . each.

LIGHT FRE IGHTS. I llustrated. Four

H is w it and humour are perfectly irrest ible. Mr. J acobs writes of sk ippers , a

rriates, and seamen , and his crew are t

j o l l iest lot that ever sa i led .-D a i ly N ew

Laughter in every page.

’—D a i ly M a i l

Novels .

each.

COLONEL ENDERBY’

S WIFE . Third THE HISTORY OF SIR R I CH AR

L or PE'

RFECTIONZ N ew

LITTLE PETER . Second E di tion . 35. 6d .

THE WAGES OF SIN . Th irteen th E d i tion .

THE CAR ISSIMA . F ou r th E di tion .

THE GATELESS BARRIER . Fou'

rth

E d i'

.i zon‘In

“The Gateless Barr ier it is at once

evident that, whilst Lucas Ma let has preserved her birthri ht o f origina l i ty,pthe

art istry , the ac tua w r it ing; is above eventhe high leve l o f the books that were born

CALMADY. S even th

Ed it ion in Two Vo lumes . Crow n 8210. r‘A picture finely and amply conceive

In thepstrength and ins ightp in which t

story has been conceived , in the wea l thfancy and reflec tion bestowed uponexecu t ion ,

and m the moving s incer ity o fpathos throughou t, “

Sir R ichard Calmad

must rank as the great nove l o f a grwr iter. —t era ture.

The r ipest fru i t o f Lucas Malet’s gen iA icture o f materna l love by turns tenan terr ible.H—Spect‘a tor‘A remarkably fine book , w ith a nomo tive and a sound conclus ion .

—l ot .

Gilbert Parker’s Novel s.

Crown 87 m.

P IERRE AND H IS PEOPLE. F if th E diti tan .

Stor ies happily conce ived and finely execu ted . The re is strength and geniu s inMr. Parker ’s style.

—D a zly Telegraph.

MRS . FALCH ION. Fourth E di tion. .

A sp lend id study of character.A them um .

THE TRANSLATION or A SAV AGE .

Socond E d i t ion .

THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD . I l lustrated . Seven th E d i t ion .

‘A rous ing and dramatic tale. A book

l ike thi s is a j oy inexpressib le.

’

D a i ly Chron icle.

WHEN V ALMOND CAMETO PONT IACThe Story of a Lost Napoleon.

E d i tion‘Here we find romance—real , breathing ,l iving romance. The character o f V almond

is drawn unerring ly.-P a l l M a l l Gazette.

65.

‘

each.

AN ADV ENTURER OF THE NORTThe Last Adventures of

‘Pretty P ierrTh ird E d i ti .on

The presen t book 15 fu l l o f fine'and mc

ing ston es o f the great North.—Gla sg

H era ld .

THE SEATS OF THE M IGHTY. I lltrated . Tw egf th E d i ti .on‘Mr. Parker has produced a real ly fi

h istor ical novel. -A thend um .

‘A great book.—B lach a nd Wh i te.

THE BATTLE OF THE STRONGRomance o f Two Kingdoms. I llustrateFou rth E d i tion.

Noth ing more v igorou s or more humhas come from M r. G ilbe rt Parker than ttnovel . —t era tnre.

F ifl h THE POMP OF THE LAV ILETTESecond E d i t i .on 3s . 6d .

‘Unforced pathos , and a deeper knoledge of human nature than he hasI

)

d isplay<before.-Pa l l M a l l Gazette.

MESSRS. METHUEN’

S'

CATALOGUE

Robert

Crown‘ Third THE STRONG ARM .I N THE MIDST OF ALARMS.

E d i tion

A book wh ich has abundantly satisfied u s

by i ts ca ita l humour . —’ D a i ly Chron i .cle

THE MU ABLE MANY. S econd E di ti .on‘There 15 much ins ight i n it , and much

excel lent humour.—D a i ly Chronzcle.

THE COUNTESS TEKLA. Th ird E d i°

.ti on‘Of these med iaeval romances, wh ich are

now gaining ground “The Countess

Tek la" is the very best we have seen.

-P a l l

J . H. M. Abbot, Author o f ‘Tommy Corns ta lk. ’Gs

PLAIN AND V ELDT.

yCrown

8210.

F. Anstey, Au thor o f ‘V ice Versa. ABAYARD FROM BENGAL . I llustratedby BERNARD PARTR IDGE. Third Edi tion.

Crow n 8710. 3s . 6d .

A h igh ly amus ing story.

’

P a l l M a l l Gazette.

‘Avolumeof roll 1ck 1ng 1rrespons ible fun.

’

Ou tlook .

Th is eminently m irthfu l narrat ive.

Globe.

‘Immenselydivertin .—Glasgoo/H era ld .

Ri chard Bagot . A R MAN MYSTERY.

‘An adm irable story. The p lot 15 sensat ional and orig inal , and the book ts fu l l o ftel l ing si tuat ions.—S t . j ames

’

s Gazette.

An w Balfour. . BY STROKE OFSW RD . I l lustrated . Fourth E di tion .

Crow n SW .

‘A rec ita l of thr ill ing interest, told w ith

unflagéing v i our.

—Glohe.

V EN EAnéE Is M INE.Crow n 800. 63 .

See also Fleu r de Lis Nove lsM. C. Balfour. THE FALL OF THESPARROW. Crown 800. 63 .

S Baring Goul d. See page 30.

J ane Barlow. THEpLAND OF THE

SHAMROCK . Crown Boo. 6s.

FROM THE EAST UNTO THE WEST .

Crown 8710. 6s .THE FOUND ING OF FORTUNES .

Crown Boo. os .

This 1nteres ting and del ightfu l book . I tsau thor has done nothing better , and it isscarcel an exaggerat ion to say that itw ou ld e an inj ustice to Ireland not to readi .t — .Scotsma n

See al so Fleu r 'de Igis Novels.Robert Barr. See pe

A. Barry. IN THe

J .

Crown

George Bartram, A1i thor o f TheP le o fC10 ton.

’

THE TH IRTEEN E ENIN S. Crown Boo. 65.

I l lustrated .

GREAT DEEP .

I llustrated. Seeo

1

THE V ICTORS‘Mr. Bari has

‘

On looker.

‘A very convincing s til dy o f Americl ife in its

rybusiness and pol itica l aspects.

P i .lot‘Good wr1t1ng, i l luminating sketches

charaé ter, and constant var iety of scene a

inc ident.,

J

Harold Begbie. THE AD V ENTURESS IR OHN SPARROW. Crown 8100.

r. . Begb ie often recal ls Stevensomanner and makes “ Sir J ohn Sparrowmost d iverting wr i t ing. S ir J ohn 15 i nspi1w i th the idea that it i s his du ty to re fothe world, and launches into the vortexfadd i sts. H is experiences are t raced ws acious and Rabe lais ian humour. Ev

c aracter has the sa l ience o f a type . Enttainingly and deft ly wr it ten.

1 0 4 16/ 6 7 d1? Benson. DODO : A Detail of

TRYST and O ther Stor ies. Crow n 8vo.

Bland (E . Nesb it). THE RHOUUSE. Il lust rated . . Crown 87 m. 6:

0. Stewart Bowles. A STRETCH 0THE LAND . rown 8210. 65 .

Emma Brooke. HE,POET’S CH ILCrow n 8ao. 6s.

Shan. P. Bullock. THE SQU IREECrown 8oo. 6s .

Bloundel le Burton, Au thor o f " IC lash o f Arms. ’ THE YEAR ONE :Page of the French Revo lution. I lltrated. Crow n 8720. 65.

DENOUNCED . Crow n 8vo. 6s.

THE CLASH OFARMS. Crown 81/o.

ACROSS THE SALT SEAS. Crown 8

SERV ANTS OF SIN. Crown 8170. 6

(THE FATE OF V ALSEC. Crown 8s

The characters are admirably portrayThe book not only arrests and sus tains lattent ion, bu t conveys va luable informatiin the most pleasant ise.

—M orn ing P oA BRANDED NAS'IE. Crown 8210.

See also F leur de Lis Nove l s .AdaCambridge, THE DEV ASTATORCrown 8oo. 6s .

PATH AND GOAL. Crow n Boo. 6s .

FICTION‘

Capes ,'

Au thor of ‘The..Lake o f

PLOTS. Crow n 81m. 66 3

stor ies are exce l lent ly fancifu l andconcentrated and qu ite wo rthy o f t the

au thor’5 best work. —Morm rig Leader.

Weatherby Chesney.

' JOHN TOPP'P IRATE ? S econd E d i ti on Crow n 8oo.

J THE FOUNDERED ’

GALLEON .

Crow n 8oo. 6s .

THE BRANDED PR INCE. Crown 87m.

5‘Always highiy ‘in térest ing and surpris

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’-D a i 1y E xpress .

An ingenious, cleverly contr

Mrs .W.K. Cli ff ord . AWOMAN ALONE.

Crow n 8710. 3 s. 6d .

See a lso Fleur de Li s Novels .Hugh Cli ff ord. A FREE LANCE OFTO DAY. Crow n 8oo. 6s .

Maclaren Cobban . THE KING OF

ANDAMAN Saviour o f Soc iety .

Crown 8110.

WILT THO HAV E THI S WOMAN?Crow n 8110.

THE ANGEL OF 'THE COV ENANTCrow n 8710. 65.

E. H. Cooner, Au thor Of ‘Mr. Blake o f N ew

market. ’ A FOOL’

S YEAR!Crown 8110. 6s .

Juli an Corbett . A BUS INESS INl GREAT WATERS. J Crow n 8210.

Marie Corelli : See page'28.

Colpe

mCom f ord . CAPTAIN JACOBUSmance o f the Road . Cr 8210.

See also F leur de L is Novels .Steph Crane. WOUNDS IN '

THERAIN Crown 8oo. 6s .

R .

RA

CI‘OCk ett , Au thor of ‘The Ra iders , ’ etc.

L O C H I N V A R . I l lustrated. S econd

Fu l l o f ga l lan try and(pat

y

hos , o f the

clash Of arms ,gand brigh tene episodes ofhumour and love.

-Wes t7nzns ter Gazette.

THE STANDARD EEARER .

‘

Cr . 87m. 6s .

M r. Crockett at his best. ’—L i tera tu re.

B.

'-M. Croker, Au thor Of ‘Peggy o f the

Bartons. ’ A N G E L . Th ird E d i ti .on

1 Crow n 87m.‘An excel lent story. Clever pictures o f

Anglo-Ind ian l ife abound . The hero ine l s

del ightfu l. —M anches ter Gua rd ia n

PEGGY OF THE BARTONS. Crow n

8720.

v

r,A STATE SECRET. Crown 8720. 33 . 6d .

Hope Dawli sh. A SECRETARY OFer LEGAT ION. Crow n 8710.

'65.1

Up

IFE .

33

Harris Dickson: THE B LACK WOLF ’SBREED . I l lustrated. S econd E di

'

.z‘zon

Crow n 8110.

A. Conan Doyle, Author o f‘Sherlock

Ho lmes , ’ .

‘The Wh ite Company, ’ etc.

ROUND THE RED LAMPp

E ight/1E d i

'

.tzon Crow n 82m. 6s .

The book 15 far and away the bes t viewthat has been vouchsafed us behind the

scenes of the consul ting room. N—I l lus trd ted

Sara J eannette Duncan (Mrs. EverardCotes), Au thor o f ‘

A Voyag

e o f Con so lafim . T H O S E D E G H T F U DAMER ICAN S. Illu strated. Tk ird E d itron .

’ Crow n 82m.

‘A ratt l ing picture of Amer ican l ife ,bright and good tempered throughou t}S cotsma n .

THE PATH OF A STAR . I l lustrated .

S econd E d i tion . Crown 8210.

S ee al so Fleur de Lis Novel s.C. F. Embree. A HEART OF FLAME .

G. Manvme Penn . AN ELECTR ICSPARK. Crow n 8vo. 65 .

ELI ’S CH ILDREN. Crow n 2s . 6d .

“

A DOUBLE KNOT. Crow n 800. 6d .

See al so Fleur d e Lis Nove ls. ‘

J .H. Findlater. THE GREEN GRAV ESO F B A L G OW R I E . Fou rt/1 E dztzon

Cro wn 8vo.A powerfu l and vivid storyory .

A beau t ifu l s tory, sad and s trange as

tru th itself.—V anzty Fa inA s ingu larly orig ina l, clever, and beaut i

fu l story .—Gu a rd ian .

A .DAUGHTER OF STR IFE . Crown

8110.

See al so Fleur de Lis Novels.Mary Findlater. OV ER THE H ILLS .

S econd E d i'

.tzon Crown 8710.

BETTY MUSGRAV E . Second Edi '

.tzon

Crow n 8z/o. 6‘

s .

A NARROW WAY.~ Tkz

°

rd E d i tion .

J . S. Fletcher. THE BU ILDERS. Crow n

87m.

See al so Fleur de Lis Novels .R. E. Forrest . THE SWORD OFAZRAEL,

a Chron ic le of the Great Mu t iny. Crow n

M . E. Franci s . MISS ER IN . Second

Tom Gall on ,Au thor o f ‘K iddy. ’ R ICK

ERBY ’

S FOLLY. Crow n 8710.

Mary Gaunt . DEADMAN ’

S. Crown 8 m.

THE}.MOV ING F INGER. Crown 8710.

.9. 6 1 r3See al so F leur de Lis Novels.

Dorothea. Gerard , Au thor of‘Lady Baby.

’

THE M ILLION. Crow n Boo. 6s.

THE CONQUEST OF LONDON.

Second Ed i tion. Crown 8710.

34 MESSRS. METHUEN’

S CATALOGUE

THE SUPREME CR IME; Cr. 8110.

HOLY MATRIMONY. (Second E d i tion .

Crown 8110.

‘The‘love s to fwhich it enshrines 1s a

very. pretty an tender one.—1tIorning

L‘d dl ro . I 1 1 g7

D ist inctly 1nteresting.—A them um .

TH INGS : THAT HAV E iHAPPENED .

R.MurrayGi lchrist . WILLOWBRAKE .

Crown 811o. 6s .

ernon cussing.

’

THE KEYS OFTHEOUSE. Crow n

George Gissing,Au thor of ‘Demos, ’ In the

Year Of ubi lee,’

e tc. T H E T OW NTRAV E ER. S econd E dztzon. Crown8v0.

THE CROW". OF L IFE . Crow n 8110.

Ernest Glanvine THE KLOOF BRIDE .

Crow n 8110.

-6d .

TH6E1LOST 3REGIMENT. Crown 8110.

3 : I z l

Q

THEdDESPé TCH R IDER. Crown 8110.

3 6

THE INCA’S TREASURE. I l lustrated.

Crow n 8110. 6d .

No lack o f exc1t1ng incident .Most thril l ing and exciting.

Charles G1eig. BUNTER’

S CRU I SE .

I llu strated Crow n 8110. .9 . 6d .A

J ulien Gordon.

‘ MRS. C YDE . C ’

row n

‘A clever picture of many phases 'o ffem in ine and American l ife.

’

D a zly E xpress .Fu ll of vivacity

,w ithmany excru c iat ingly

c lever and enterta l n ing scenes. —P 110t.WORLD ’

S PEOPLE f ? Crown 8110.

S. Gordon.iA HANDEUL OF EXOTICS .

Crow n r. 6d.

0. P. Goss. HE REDEMPTION OFDAV ID

,

CORSON . T/1ird E d i tion .

Crown

B. M‘

Queen Gra ELSA. Crow n 8110.

MY STEWAR SH IP . Crow n 8110. a.r. 6d .

A. G. Hales .

CJAIR THE APOSTATE .

I l lustrated. r0 wn 8110.

‘An ex traord inari ly v ivid story - W0e .

‘Mr. H ales has a. v ivid pen , and the

scenes aredescribedwithvigourandco lour.’

M orn ing P os t.

Lord Ernest Hamilton. MARY HAM ILTON .

“Th i rd E dztzon Crow n 8110. 6 9.

Mrs . Burton Harri son. A PRI NCESSOF THEH ILLS. I l lustrated. Crown 8110.

exci tingF—Ou tlook.

A smgu larly pleasant story o f theTyrol .l

111n

P os t

Robert Hichens 'Author of Iames, ’etc THE PROI’HET OF'BERKELE-so\fARE.

"Second E dztion.’ Crown 800.

One continuous sparkle. Mr ’H icheis w itty , sat irica l, caust ic , irreSiIst1bly huorous .

—B zr1nzng lza 1n Gazettes !TONGUES OF

gCONSCIENCE. S eco

Ed i tion . Crown 8110.

FELIX. f our th Ed i tzon. Crown 8110.Firm in texture, sane,x s incere, 1a1

natura l . Fel ix ” is a. c lever book, andmany respects a t rue one.

-D a i ly Ckrona:A real ly powerful book.'- 1

M orn ing Lead‘The story is related with unflaggispirit.—World.

“Fel ix w i l l undoub tedly add to a CC

s iderable repu tat ion .—D a i1 Ma i .l

See a lso F leur de Lis Novels.J ohn Ol iver Hobbes, Au thor o f ‘RoOrange. THE SER IOUS WOOINCrow n 8110. 6 9.‘M rs. Cra ig ie 15 as br il l iant as she e

has been ; her characters are a l l i l lum inatw i th sparkl ing gems o f descript ion, and t

. conversat ion s cint i l lates w ith an alm‘bewi lder ing blaze.

’—A thenanm.

Anthony Hope. See page 28.

I . Hooper. THE S INGER OF MARLCrown 8110. 3

V iolet .Hunt. T H E H U M A N.1

Cutcl ifi‘

e H e, Au thor o f Ca pt.Kett le.

’

P R INCC E 'R U P E R T T HBUCCANEER. With 8 -I llustratioS econd Edi

'

.tzon Crow n 8110. 69 .MR . HORROCKS , PURSER. Cro8110.

W.W. J acobs. See page 29.

eury J ames , Au thor o f What MaiKnew.

’

T H E S A C R ED F O U NCrow n 8110.

THE SOFT S IDE. S econd

THE BETTER SORT. Crow n 8110.

Gustaf J anson. ABRAHAM ’S SAGEF ICE. Crow n 81 10. , 6s .

C. F. Keary. THE J OU RN,A L I’S

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Florence Finch Kelly. WITH HOOJOF STEEL. Crow n 8110.

Hon. Emi ly Lawless. TRAITS ANCONFIDENCES. Crow n 8110.

WITH ESSEX I N IRELAND . NE d i tzon . Crow n 8110.

See a lso F leur de Lis Novels.H Lawson ,

Au thor o f ‘When the BiBoi s . ’ CH ILDREN OF THE BUS

Fu l l o f human sympathy and the genu iflavour o f a w i ld , untramme l led , unsophisca ted l ife .

—M orn ing Leader.f

The authorwr ites of thew i ld , cturesqlife ‘out back,’ wi th al l the a t ion of

native and the pene trat ing insight. of loobservation.

- Dazly Telegraph.

MESSRS. METHUE N’

S CATALOGUE

THE ICELANDER’S SWORD . By S . Baring-Gould.L ITTLE CH ILDREN AN CH ING. By E d ith E .

n Cuthel l.

V OYAGE. ‘ By w. C lark

{BOOBS for 35095 ali bi fi lfl fi

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. I " o‘

SYD BELTON . Or. the Boy who would not go to 5By G. Manvil le Fenn.T HE RED GRANGE. By Mrs . Molesworth .THE SECRET OF MADAME DE MONLUC.

’

Author o f ‘Md le. M ori .‘DUMPS. By M rs . Parr. 'l

A GIRL OF yTHE PEOPLE . By L. T. Meade.HE PSY G IPSY. By L. T . Meade . 2s . 6d .

THE HONOURABLE M ISS.lBy L J T . Meade.A u l.

By

MESSRS. METHUEN are issuing under the above general title a Monthly Serof Novels bythe average

ySpix Shill ing Novel .

I . DEAD MEN TELL NO TALES! By E . W.

. H ornung.I I. JEé

VN IE BAXTER , J OURNAL IST. By RobertarrI I I . THE INCA’

S TR EASU RE B E rnest Glanvi lle.IV. A SON OF THE STATE. yW . Pet t R idge.V. FURZE BLOOM . By s . Barm

gGould.

V I . BUNTER 'S CRU ISE . By C G eig.V I I. T HE GAY DECE IV ERS. By Arthu r M o'ore .V I I I . PR ISONE RS OF WAR . By A .

yBoyson Weekes .IX. A FLASH QF SUMMER . ByyM rs .

,W . K .

C l i ff ord .X. V E LDT AND LAAGE R : Tales of the Transvaal.By E . S . Valentine. u

X I. THE N IGGER KN IGHTS. By F. Norreys" Co .nne lX I I. A MARR IAGE AT SEA .

~ By W . C lark Ru ssel l .X I I I . THE POMP OF THE LAV ILETTES. ByG i lbert Parker.X IV. A MAN OF MARK. By Anthony Hope.XV. THE CAR ISS IMA. By Lucas Ma let .

X V I . T HE LADY S WALK. By M rs .

‘0l iphant.XVI I . DERR ICK VAUGHAN . By E dna Lyal l . .XV I I I . IN '

IT

B

HE M IDST OF ALARMS . By Robertarr.X IX. H IS GRACE . Byw . E . Norris.XX. DODO . By E . F. Benson .XX I . CHEAP ACK ZI’

I‘

A . By S . Bar ing-Gou ld .XX I I . WHEN ALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC. ByG ilbert Parker.

popular authors at the price o f Sixpence.The first numbers of ‘THE NOV ELIST ’

are

Each number 15 as long

XX I I I . T HE HUMAN BOY.XX IV. THE CHRONICLE S OFB

By Anthony Hope .BY STROKE OF SWORD. By AndBal four.XXV I . K ITTY ALONE . By s . Baring-Gould.XXVI I . G ILES INGILBY. By W. E . Norr is.XXVI I I . UR ITH. By S . Baring Gou ld.XX IX. .TH E TOWN TRAVELLER. By GeoG iss ing.

XXX . MR. SM ITH. By Mrs . Wa lf'ord.XXX I . A CHANGE OF A IR . By Ant liony HcXXX I I . THE KLOOF BR IDE . B E rnest GlanviXXX I I I . ANGE L . By B . M . Cro er.XXX IV.1AdCiOUNSEL OF PERF ECTION. By Lua et

XXXV . THE BABY'S GRANDMOTHER. By LWa l ford .XXXVI . THE COUNTESS TEKLA. By Robert BXXXVI I . DR IFT. BY L . T . M eade .XXXVI I I . THE MASTE R OF BEECHWOOD.Ade l ine S ergeant.CLEMENTINA. By A . E . W. Mason .

.XL. THE AL IEN. By F. F. Montresor.XLI. THE BROOM SQU IRE. By S . BariGou ld.XLI I. HONEY. By H elen Mathers.XLI I I. THE FOOTSTEPS OF A THRONE

Max Pemberton.

Eden PhilipoUNT ANTON

Insetbuen’s S ixpenng ILIbtatg

THE MATABELE CAMPA IGN. By Maj or-Genera lBaden Powel l .THE DOWNFALL OF PREMPEH. By Maj or-General

By W . C lark Russel l .Baden Powe ll.

MY DAN ISH SWEETH EART.

IN

GT

EE. ROAR OF THE SEA. By S . Ban ng

OII

PEGGY OF THE BARTONS. By B . M . C roker.TH E GR E EN GRAVE S OF BALGOWR IE . By J an eH . Find later.THE STOLEN BAC ILLUS. B H . G. Wells .

MATTHEW AUSTIN. ByW . . Norr is .THE CONQUEST OF LONDON. By D orotheaGerard .A V OYAGE OF CONSOLAT ION. By Sara !. Duncan.T HE MUTABLE MANY. By Robert Barr.BEN HUR. By Genera l Lew Wa l lace.S IR ROBERT

‘SyFORTUNE . B M rs . Oliphan t.

T HE FA IR GOD . By Genera l ew Wallacet o'

CLAR ISSA FUR IOSA. By W . E . Nom s .

CRANFORD . By M rs . Gask e ll.NOEM I . By S . Baring Gou ld .THE THRONE OF DAVID. By J . H. Ingraham.

ACROSS THE SALT SEAS. By ‘

J . BloundBurton . ’

THE M ILL ON THE FLOSS.ByGeorge E l iot .PETE R S IMPLE. By Capta in arryat .MARY BARTON. By Mrs. Ga ske ll .

PR IDE AND PREJUD ICE . B J ane Austen.NORTH AND SOUTH . B rs. Gaske ll.J ACO B FA ITHFUL. By aptain M arryat.S H IRLEY. By Charlotte Brouté.

FAIRY TALE S R E-TOLD. By S . Bar ing Gou ld.THE TRUE H ISTORY OF JOSHUA DAVI DSONMrs. Lynn L inton.A STATE SECRET . By B . M C roker.SAM

'S SWEETHEART . By He len Mathers.HANDLEY CROSS . By R . S . Surtees.ANNE MAULEV ERER. By M rs . Cafl'yn.

THE ADV ENTURERS . By H . B. M arr iott WatsoDAIEI‘

E'S D IV INE COMEDYY. Trans lated by H .ar

THE CEDAR STAR . By M E . M ann.MASTER OF M EN . By

yE . P. penheirn .

THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD. y Gi lbert Park er.

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