Post on 02-Feb-2023
Beyond Taco Bell:
Dismantling Appropriation andIncreasing Appreciation of Mexican
Cuisine and Culture Using Design
A thesis submitted to the Graduate School
of the University of Cincinnati in partial fulfillment
of the requirements for the degree of
Master of Designin the Myron E. Ullman Jr. School of Design
College of Design, Architecture, Art and Planning by
Chloe Pearson
Visual Communication Technology, Bowling Green State University
Committee Chair: Renee SewardCommittee Member: Vittoria Daiello, Ph.D.
3/12/21
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Abstract
Mexican food is a modern product of cultural integration, as it introduces uniqueflavor profiles and dishes to individuals both within and outside of traditionalMexican culture. Although Mexican cuisine has quickly become integrated intoAmerican society, it has also been subject to appropriation, racism andsuppression of cultural heritage due to miseducation within American diningscenes. Using design thinking, this research seeks to identify essential tools thatcan provide U.S. restaurant patrons with the knowledge needed for appreciatingMexican cuisine beyond the scope of Taco Bell. Utilizing a mixed methodsapproach, the research employs surveys, in-depth interviews, ideation sessionsand ecosystem mapping to generate and analyze data. Research outcomes point toa potential design solution: a centralizing information platform that Mexican-stylerestaurants could use to provide an educational and interactive dining experiencefor their patrons, thus increasing cultural appreciation. Additional researchoutcomes include education and communication recommendations for Americanrestaurants such as interactive menu designs that provide enhanced menu content.This research has relevance for education institutions, architectural consultants,marketing designers, and others who endeavor to represent cultural phenomenawith sensitivity, respect, and accuracy.
Keywords: Appropriation, Cultural Responsibility, Mexican Cuisine,Representation, Communication Design, Education, Cultural Competency
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Table of Contents
Abstract 5
Table of Contents 7
List of Figures 9
Glossary, List of Symbols and Abbreviations 11
Personal Narrative 1
Introduction 5Research Questions 6Significance of the Research 7
Literature Review 6Coming to America: The Immigrant Story 7Culture Appropriation vs. Appreciation 8Appropriation of Mexican Customs 11The Others: Racism and Food Appropriation in America 12The Mexican Food Revolution and Tacos 15The History of Tacos 16Whitewashed: Tacos with a Side of Trendy 18Activism within Culinary Spaces 21Using Design to Dismantle Appropriation 23
Methodology 24Quantitative Study Design 25General Population Survey 27Procedure 29Data Analysis
Qualitative Study Design 29In-Depth Interviews 30Ideation Session 37Procedure 38Design Solution Testing 39
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Intentional Menu Design 45Culturally Responsible 46Results 49
Discussion and Conclusion 56Limitations 58Future Directions and Design Opportunities 60Conclusion 62
References 69
Appendix A 87
Appendix B 77
Appendix C 81
Appendix D 85
Appendix E 88
Appendix F 89
Appendix G 90
Appendix H 93
Appendix I 94
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List of Figures
Figure 1. Image of Mexican pozole dish. [@claudetteazepeda]. (2021, February1). I’ve been thinking about how menu items with names that we associate with“cheap/inexpensive” food get ordered more and if the price matches the labor andquality guests get irate. #chefclaudette [Instagram photo]. Retrieved fromhttps://www.instagram.com/claudetteazepeda/
Figure 2. Pie chart of age demographics of survey participants. Appropriation vs.Appreciation Survey. Retrieved Google form survey (2020).
Figure 3. Pie chart of immigrant identification of survey participants.Appropriation vs. Appreciation Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey(2020).
Figure 4. Pie chart of whether restaurants appropriate or appreciate cuisines.Appropriation vs. Appreciation Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey(2020).
Figure 5. Pie chart of whether restaurants appropriate or appreciate cuisinesHispanic/Latino subset group. Appropriation vs. Appreciation Survey. Retrievedfrom Google form survey (2020).
Figure 6. Bar graph of the most appropriated cultural cuisines. Appropriation vs.Appreciation Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
Figure 7. Pie chart of Mexican cuisine and culture learning interest. Using Designto Educate Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
Figure 8. Bar graph of food learning interest for Mexican cuisine. Using Design toEducate Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
Figure 9. Pie chart of taking time to learn Mexican cuisine and culture topics.Using Design to Educate Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
Figure 10. Bar graph of the most effective education tools in a restaurant setting.Using Design to Educate Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
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Figure 11. Pie chart of whether the restaurant or patron is more culturallyresponsible. Using Design to Educate Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey(2020).
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GLOSSARY, LIST OF SYMBOLS AND ABBREVIATIONS
American: relating to or characteristic of the United States or its inhabitants.
Appreciation: recognition and enjoyment of the good qualities of someone orsomething.
Authentic: made or done in the traditional or original way, or in a way thatfaithfully resembles an original.
BIPOC: Black, Indigenous, (and) People of Color.
Cultural Appropriation: the unacknowledged or inappropriate adoption of thecustoms, practices, ideas, etc. of one people or society by members of another andtypically more dominant people or society.
Cuisine: a style or method of cooking, especially as characteristic of a particularcountry, region, or establishment.
Cultural Competence: the ability to understand, communicate with andeffectively interact with people across cultures. Being aware of one’s own worldview. Developing positive attitudes towards cultural differences and gainingknowledge of different cultural practices and world views.
Culturally Inspired: historical, geographical, and familial factors that affectassessment and intervention process.
Customs: a usage or practice common to many or to a particular place or class orhabitual with an individual.
Digital Design: a type of visual communication that presents information or aproduct or service through a digital interface. Put simply, it’s graphic design madespecifically to be used on computers.
Dismantle: to destroy (something) in an orderly way.
Educate: give intellectual, moral, and social instruction to (someone, especially achild), typically at a school or university.
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Ethnic: relating to a population subgroup (within a larger or dominant national orcultural group) with a common national or cultural tradition.
Ethnic Food: food prepared or consumed by members of an ethnic group as amanifestation of its ethnicity.
Flavor Profiles: the combination of flavors experienced when tasted. Adescription of the relative intensity or aromas, tastes, and aftertastes in a food.
Gentrification: the process whereby the character of a poor urban area is changedby wealthier people moving in, improving housing, and attracting new businesses,typically displacing current inhabitants in the process.
Mexican: a native or inhabitant of Mexico.
Modern: relating to the present or recent times as opposed to the remote past.
Palate: a person’s appreciation of taste and flavor, especially when sophisticatedand discriminating.
Preserve: maintain (something) in its original or existing state.
Restaurant Patron: a regular customer of an establishment or someone whoprovides financial support to some person or cause.
Traditional: existing in or as part of a tradition; long-established.
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Personal Narrative
This thesis explores cultural appropriation in the production and
presentation of Mexican cuisine in American restaurants. The research seeks to
facilitate better cultural understanding and respect around Mexican cuisine and
culture in America by proposing education tools to enrich the dining experience
for restaurants and their patrons.
Personal Story
Growing up in the suburbs of Cincinnati, I was very fortunate to have a
diverse community of friends. My inner group consisted of Indian, Mexican,
Vietnamese, Japanese, Filipino, African American, and Caucasian individuals,
one of whom had ties to the Deep South. Having a group of friends from all over
the world opened my eyes to different conversations, customs, and cuisines; I had
the world in my inner circle of friends and didn’t even realize it. One friend in
particular, Fernanda Hurtado, really left a mark on me. Fernanda was from
Mexico—Mexico City to be exact. She moved to the United States in 2010 due to
her parents’ professions, landing her in Mason, Ohio, where we met.
Fernanda and I bonded over our love of food, and we tried a little bit of
everything. Having an inner circle of various ethnicities, we were able to taste
Filipino dishes, improve our chopstick-holding skills, and eat sweet treats that
couldn’t be found in local supermarkets. I have warm memories of a weekend
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when we all gathered at Fernanda’s house, which was overwhelmingly large, with
big white walls decorated with abstract paintings, hardwood floors, and a grand
staircase. The house was infused with sounds of Spanish conversation; Spanish
dialogue flowed from the lips of her bilingual parents, echoing the excited tones
of the TV announcer narrating the soccer game playing in the background. The
importance of maintaining Mexican culture in Fernanda’s household was obvious,
even though they had settled in a new American city.
Family meant everything to the Hurtados. In our diverse group of friends,
many of us came from what were considered broken families, and many were
living in single-parent households. Seeing a family of six with two loving parents
made me happy and hopeful. It was comforting to watch Señora Hurtado prepare
meals for her family, and being asked to share a meal with them made us feel like
extended members of that family. Señora Hurtado prepared tostadas for us that
weekend, and I still remember the taste and the experience of this meal. Mentally,
I was expecting a flour tortilla branded with the Old El Paso logo stuffed with
greasy ground beef, shredded cheese, lettuce, and a lump of glossy sour cream on
a paper plate. However, I was pleasantly surprised to be presented with something
else; Fernanda’s mom first set the table with tostadas, a flat toasted tortilla that
was golden to the eye and packed with a powerful crunch when I bit into the
rough, crispy texture. Alongside the tostadas were refried beans, lettuce,
tomatoes, cotija cheese, crema (sour cream), and tender shredded chicken. “Buen
provecho,” she stated, which is equivalent to the French saying “Bon Appetit,”
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telling us to enjoy the meal that had just been prepared for us. That was my first
experience consuming a traditional Mexican meal.
Going back to the 18th century, Mexicans who migrated to the northern
parts of California packed everything they knew of what it meant to be Mexican
and brought it with them to America. Most Mexicans during this time worked in
the mines and on railroads, and their source of food was typically tacos from a
taco truck, as the meal was affordable and provided a small taste of home
(MacKenzie, n.d.). The taco trucks were vital to the working class not only for
affordability but because they created the sense of gathering as a community.
However, because of its association with migrant labor Mexican food was quickly
viewed as a poor man’s meal by middle-class Americans; that is, until someone
came in and saw an opportunity to make Mexican cuisine appeal more to
Americans based on convenience and accessibility.
Glenn Bell, the creator of the prefabricated taco shell, created a restaurant
in 1948 that invited middle class Americans to enjoy Mexican cuisine without
stepping into impoverished territory (Pilcher, n.d.). Although Bell probably had
good intentions in creating such an American favorite, he reduced the traditional
taste of a taco and its significance within Mexican culture (Elliot, 2015).
Traditionally, a taco shell should be made from scratch, a soft corn tortilla stuffed
with fresh pork that is typically slow cooked for many hours on a stovetop until
tender, ultimately garnished with fresh onion and cilantro for flavor. Nowadays,
Taco Bell, one of the top performing “Mexican” fast food chains in the United
States, offers a cheap, watered-down version of traditional tacos. They continue to
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erase tradition with hard premade shells, processed frozen meat, and a plethora of
toppings and sauces, all served in five minutes or less.
At the time, the tostada dinner at the Hurtados was just another delicious meal
to me because I love to eat and was probably hungry. I did not fully appreciate
how eating that home-cooked tostada was more than just another meal with
friends. Each bite of the tostada was a representation of Fernanda’s family: a
journey from Mexico to pursue a better life, an emotional remembrance from
childhood, a true taste of Mexico and an invitation for friends to experience a
culture outside of their own. Food is a huge part of cultural identity and can
enhance one’s appreciation for another culture and empower the people within it.
Food ultimately helps to tell the stories that might otherwise go untold.
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Introduction
As of 2020, Mexican food is rated the second most consumed cuisine in
the United States behind Asian cuisine (Mekouar, 2020). With Mexican cuisine
being so popular, many restaurants in America tend to fall short in how they
represent the culture’s cuisine and as a result partake in a form of appropriation.
In general, there is a need to highlight Mexican cuisine and culture through a new
narrative.
Currently, an increase in advocacy for more accurate cultural
representation is needed within food spaces. Educating people further about
Mexican cuisine will not only show appreciation but showcase an effort in
representation and mindfulness regarding what is portrayed of another culture.
Mexicans are proud of their culture and their cuisine; therefore, their heritage
needs to be represented in a better way. Upcoming generations and past ones are
seeking cultural understanding through food but are not always provided with the
tools and opportunity to gain that necessary competence.
1.1.1 Research Questions
With the entwined goals of cultural advocacy and education, this research
explores the following question: In what way can design impact restaurant spaces
to effectively develop the cultural competence of restaurant patrons around
Mexican cuisine? To answer this question, a mixed methodology study, consisting
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of qualitative and quantitative methods, was undertaken to develop data-driven
recommendations and future design tools to benefit restaurants and their patrons.
The proposed future design tools and recommendations that emerge from
this research include artifacts such as menu design, icons, and interactive designs.
These artifacts will provide educational opportunities not only for bridging
cultural understanding but also for acknowledging and bringing people together
through a common love of Mexican food. Further, the artifacts can be used as a
starting point for furthering one’s appreciation for Mexican cuisine, Mexican
culture, and the people of Mexico.
1.1.2 Significance of the Research
Marrying food and cultural understanding together is significant because we
are living during a time when being culturally responsible must involve tangible
actions. This research offers a means for holding ourselves accountable in the
realm of Mexican cuisine, a necessary step toward eliminating centuries of racial
practices and negative stereotypes. To this end, this thesis proposes design
solutions and offers insights addressing cultural responsibility for Mexican
restaurants, restaurant patrons, and other industries involved in the production of
Mexican foods.
Literature Review
1.2 Coming to America: The Immigrant Story
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Ethnic cuisine is increasingly ubiquitous in American dining scenes, largely
thanks to the growing availability of culinary experiences that feature traditional
Mexican food and flavors that have been passed down from generation to
generation, regional, international, or culturally-inspired styles of food. The
expansion of ethnic cuisine in America can be traced to consumer desire: People
are craving more authentic experiences and seeking cultural understanding
through their encounters with various ethnic dishes (Zarling, 2018). Another
reason for the growth of the ethnic dining experience is immigrant identity.
Specifically, many immigrants bring their native foods, spices, customs, and
cooking practices to the United States in order to preserve their roots. Although
the United States is an amalgamation of various cultures, there is often a lack of
acknowledgement and appreciation for cultures outside of the white and European
standard. An absence of appreciation and respect for immigrant cultures has
fueled one-dimensional perspectives toward people of color, consequently leading
to a proliferation of cultural appropriation and racism surrounding “ethnic” food
in America.
1.2.1 Culture Appropriation vs. Appreciation
Cultural appropriation is defined as “the taking of a valuable, yet reusable
or non-exhaustible aspect, of another individual’s culture (usually a symbol or a
practice), for one’s own use, where the taker knows what they are doing (or
reasonably should know), and where the context of this taking is contested”
(Lenard & Baliant, 2019, p. 20). Cultural appropriation can be found in four
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different forms, including “cultural exchange, cultural dominance, cultural
exploitation, and transculturation” (Rogers, 2006, p.10). Appropriation refers to
the idea of taking something without permission that in return does nothing to
uplift or recognize the culture it was stolen from (McCann, 2020). Cultural
appropriation is most commonly associated with various styles of dance, clothing,
hairstyles, religious practices and symbols.
Appropriation in food is a complex idea but has and continues to be
explored as people continue to crave food from other cultural backgrounds
(McCann, 2019). According to an ethnic market trend study, researchers projected
that during the years of “2021-2026, with growing immigration rates due to
employment opportunities, higher education and tourism, the demand for ethnic
food has been increasing” (Ethnic Food Markets, 2016, para. 1) . As society is
craving more of a traditional experience through dining experiences, many
restaurants undergo changes that result in their food becoming an inauthentic
representation of the culture’s identity. Claudette Zepada, a Mexican chef born
between the borders of Tijuana, Mexico, and San Diego, California, seeks to
dismantle the appropriation and is well-known for her fearless approach to
cooking regional Mexican cuisine. Being able to live her dream and share her
culture, Zepada seeks to dismantle the appropriation and misconceptions around
Mexican cuisine (Figure 4). Mexican food in America is typically labeled and
considered to be cheap and fast and typically are not willing to pay high prices for
the cuisine. On the other hand, Zepada views the food and her culture differently
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and describes how “everything is a labor of love when we cook…”
(Oliver-Kurtin, 2020, para 8).
All I can do is share the stories and richness of the culture by educating
herself about the history and cuisine in order to talk about the extensive
path the dish underwent in order to make it to the patrons table. But it’s up
to the person to be open-minded enough to want to hear it. At El Jardin,
some guests would say, “Oh my God, I had no idea...that’s amazing.” and
sometimes it was, “I don’t give a shit, that’s too expensive. You’re
ridiculous. Who do you think you are?” It’s really demoralizing to have to
tell people every day that we’re worthy of what we want to charge.”
(Oliver-Kurtin, 2020, para.8).
Although appropriation still remains as an issue today across various
topics, many individuals are finding ways to combat appropriation through
recognizing the cultures that are continuously exploited and unjustly
commercialized for profitable gain.In contrast to cultural appropriation, the
concept of cultural appreciation is defined as when an individual “seeks to
understand and learn about another culture in an effort to broaden their
perspective and connect with others cross-culturally” (Holmes, 2016, para. 2). In
general, “exploring other culinary cultures through eating or cooking is, in most
cases, a sign of culinary appreciation” (Long, n.d., para. 5). There is power in
sharing cultural cuisines, as it exposes people to different flavors and dishes as
well as showing the connectivity of cultures. Chef Ivan Brehm states, “Each dish
on our menu at Nouri is an attempt to bring our dinners closer to the vision we
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have of making the world less divided. We hope to help our diners see how their
cultures are intrinsically connected and how they can be linked to each other
through a shared experience” (Sadhu, 2019, para. 5). This concept is exemplified
by two organizations whose mission is not only to introduce new foods and
flavors to the community but to also make a conscious effort to educate through
cooking: Flavours of Hope, a Canada-based kitchen (Flavours of Hope, 2020),
and League of Kitchens, an organization based in New York (Cooking Classes in
NYC, n.d.). Both organizations seek to introduce traditional meals to people
outside the culture while educating the community by telling the stories of
refugees and immigrants coming into the U.S. (Buga, 2019).
Appropriation only becomes an issue when there is no accountability in
“how we perceive the cultures that we are consuming and think about the
relationships between food, people and power” (Kuo, 2019). Many organizations
and restaurants strive to inform people about the depth of the cuisine they serve in
talking about history, people, and issues, but more education is needed. Ethnic
foods have been a positive contribution that has allowed U.S. society to develop a
certain level of cultural awareness, but these foods have unfortunately also
revealed the presence of racism and exploitation in the appropriation of ethnic
dishes. Vocalizing these issues is necessary to help to shed light on the
phenomenon of appropriation in Mexican cuisine with the ultimate goal being
more appreciation of Mexican culture in order to help sustain immigrants’ home
traditions here in the U.S.
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1.2.2 Appropriation of Mexican Customs
The history and deeply seated roots of Mexican culture are often erased in
a trend-driven food landscape. Highlighting the people, the culture and what the
food represents gives due respect to the rich cultural story of what makes a taco a
taco. Mexican culture and food have not only undergone gentrification but also
appropriation in the context of Mexican holidays celebrated throughout the United
States: Cinco De Mayo (Hayes-Bautista, 2012) and Dìa de los Muertos
(Hoyt-Goldsmith & Midgale, 1995). In 1862, a small, outnumbered group of
Mexican soldiers successfully defended themselves against the invasion of the
French Army at the Battle of Puebla. Cinco De Mayo commemorates the victory
of the Mexican army over France. The soldiers celebrated their victory with
folklòrico dancers, bull fights and traditional music honoring the Mexican soldiers
and people (History, 2009, p.1).
America has since re-written the narrative by labeling the victorious battle
as “Mexico’s Independence Day'' reducing the honorable day to alcohol
advertisements and taco sales. Lauryn Mascareñaz, the director of Equity Affairs
for Wake County Public Schools states her stance on the celebration of Cinco De
Mayo, commenting that “Mexican culture cannot be reduced to tacos, oversized
sombreros and piñatas” (Mascareñaz, 2017, para. 2). Mascareñaz speaks on how
many people feel as though they are celebrating the holiday but are actually
partaking in appropriation of the culture.
Educators and other Americans who do not honor the intended purposes of
the Mexican holidays and the associated foods cannot fully “understand the rich,
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multifaceted culture that thrives in the different regions of Mexico and the
scientist, activist, artists and change makers who hail from this country. Setting
aside the fake mustaches and maracas” (Mascareñaz, 2017, para. 7) in order to
explore the important history behind Mexico’s holidays offers potential
opportunities for furthering education that can lead to cultural competence and
empathy when it comes to consuming Mexican cuisine.
1.2.3 The Others: Racism and Food Appropriation in America
In American culture today, many of the foods we consume have been
heavily influenced by immigrants coming to this country seeking the American
Dream. But the immigrants holding on to dreams of elevation and success are
often met with American realities, including racism, economic challenges
(Correal, 2016), and invisibility, all of which are systemic constructs that prevent
opportunities to move up the economic ladder. Due to recent events, such as the
murder of George Floyd in 2020 and the sharp increase in white nationalism and
racist acts of violence during the course of the Trump presidency, many feel the
real side of America has been revealed, highlighting the amount of injustice faced
by minorities in such a white privileged society (Murphy, 2017). However, food
and the role it plays in the midst of controversy often is overlooked. Racism and
appropriation have been represented in various mediums such as food packaging
(Behnken & Smithers, 2015), professional culinary kitchens (Belanus et al., n.d.),
access to food (Joassart-Marcelliee et al., 2017), credit for chefs of color for
recipes created, and a lack of historical context for dishes (Super, 2002).
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Focusing on cultural understanding and the importance of the history of
foods in America could potentially help bridge the gap of culture appropriation
when it comes to cultural cuisine. People of color have played an important role
in developing what it means to be a citizen of the United States, especially
through the foods that many immigrants have rooted into our cultural palates. The
foods brought over by immigrants have been labeled as ethnic food. Ethnic food
is a colloquial and ambiguous term that has been defined as “a country’s cuisine
that is culturally and socially accepted by consumers outside of the respective
ethnic group” (Kwon, 2015, p. 1).
The label of ethnic food came about in the 1950’s, replacing the word foreign,
but still implying a “difference - difference of taste, difference of culture. When
we call a food ethnic, we are signifying a difference but also a certain kind of
inferiority” (Ferdman, 2016, para. 8). In labeling the food ethnic, it has opened a
market for chefs of all backgrounds in becoming curious and experimenting with
the culture. In result, ethnic food has undergone being labeled as “newly
discovered” or “trendy” when discovered by a chef or culinary professional
outside of the culture (Shah, 2017, para. 5). Filipino-American restaurateur and
operator of a mom-and-pop shop Nicole Ponseca states how “declaring an entire
‘ethnic’ cuisine a trend is inherently dismissive...doing that ignores and blows
past the history of a cuisine” (Shah, 2017, para. 5).
Ethnic food has been labeled and often compared poorly against white and
European standards, until it is deemed essential or trendy. There is controversy
not only in the food being made and the ambiguity of labeling certain BIPOC
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communities (black, indigenous, people of color) but the issues and oppression
that arise for people of color in many of these spaces.
Appropriation can also be viewed in the context of shaming people for
their food choices. Luke Tsai, a Chinese American food writer, remembers feeling
ashamed of Chinese food when he was younger. Many students would comment
on his lunch indicating that the food was not appealing and filled the lunch table
with pungent smells. Tsai stated, “I didn’t want to bring Chinese food for my
lunch at school - I wanted a sandwich or pizza to fit in” (Cheung, 2019, para. 17).
Soul food is another form of cultural cuisine that has experienced appropriation
over time. White chefs received opportunities and started becoming the face of
“Southern Food'' while not understanding the roots of the meals they prepared. Dr.
Marcia Chatelain, a professor at Georgetown University, speaks on how African
American cuisine is often disregarded with food appropriation due to the
association of slavery and poverty. For many minorities, the issue does not arise
with highlighting the food; the issue comes when the dishes created are separated
from “the material, economic, social, political and racial and racial realities that
created it, that’s when things get dicey” (Alters, 2019, para. 20).
Continuously, many cultures experience appropriation, discrimination and
racism within this country. Food discourse is often overlooked along with the
impact it has on one’s identity. When we dive deeper into this, we can further
understand how race has been embedded into our food industry and system. We
live in a system created to serve white interest and continues to operate through a
largely white gaze” (Borgman, 2019, p. 13), which in the end is detrimental to
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anyone who identifies as other than white or European. Although the phenomenon
of appropriation impacts multiple cultures across the board. Mexican cuisine is
one that has experienced heavy appropriation, racism and appreciation towards
their cuisine while still experiencing a lack of recognition towards the progression
of culinary history.
1.2.4 The Mexican Food Revolution and Tacos
The foods and flavors of Mexico have heavily influenced the way we
cook, eat and fuse different dishes in America. Throughout the years of residing in
the United States, for many “Mexican American residents and Mexican
immigrants, the translation of their traditional foods into cookbooks, restaurants,
and supermarket products provided a recipe for economic success as well as a
source of cultural pride” (The Mexican Food Revolution, 2020, p. 1). The
blending of cultures has started a revolution in terms of the way we view other
cultures, partially Mexican culture and cuisine. The history of Mexican food plays
an important role as we are able to discover and reflect upon food discourse,
suffrage, appropriation and advancements within the cuisine through technology,
equality and opportunity. Diving deeper into the history reveals untold truths
about the culture and the state of the society during that time. Food historian
Katherina Vestar stated that food history can ultimately help to “reinforce people’s
‘national identities’ when seeking a place to fit within culture” (Turner, 2020, p.
2). Mexican food has become one of the most popular cuisines alongside Chinese
and Italian food, therefore it is imperative that many consumers understand that
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Mexican cuisine can’t be summed up by burritos and tacos from beloved favorites
like Taco Bell and Chipotle.
1.2.5 The History of Tacos
In American culture today, Mexican food is easily labeled as cheap, greasy
and quickly prepared for people to enjoy on a paper plate. It is a cuisine that is
easily identified by tacos, burritos, margaritas, guacamole, and queso. With
Americans having such a narrow outlook on authentic Mexican cuisine, many do
not understand the meaning of traditional Mexican nor the impact that these foods
have had on the Mexican community when it comes to deeper issues that are
faced in this country. The advancement of beloved dishes eaten in our kitchens
today have allowed for the fusion of cultures and provided a small sense of hope
for immigrants and Mexican Americans within this country as a means of
acceptance for the culture. Tacos have become an integral part in providing a new
sense of purpose and identity. The appearance of the taco has offered insights into
the oppression and struggles faced overtime due to the ways many people have
claimed what Mexican Food should be (Pilcher, 2014). The origin of Mexican
cuisine dates back to the Mayan Indians. In the 1300’s, the Mayan Indians
produced corn tortillas by creating their own bean paste.
Along with the corn tortillas, other items that were consumed included
wild game, tropical fruits and fish (Morton, 2014). Over time, additional food
introductions such as chili peppers, honey, salt, and chocolate helped create
different flavors in the traditional Mayan meals. During this time, these tacos
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were referred to as “tacos de mineros” in Spanish, and in English known as
“miner’s tacos” (Twisted Taco, n.d.). Essentially the tacos used for mining
purposes also resemble what is consumed today in how the meat, spices and
vegetables within a taco create a sense of dynamite from the impact of the flavors
exploding in our mouths (Friesen, 2012). In today’s society, tacos are consumed
by anyone and everyone. The taco did not receive its label until the late 19th
century when migrant Mexican workers began to migrate towards new
opportunities in Mexico City. Before tacos exploded in the U.S. and became a
food that was appreciated and consumed by all, this meal was considered “peasant
food.” Tacos were mainly known to be the food of the working class (Twisted
Taco, n.d.).
Taquerias were often found in working class neighborhoods, being that the
meal was something affordable to feed families in lower income areas (Romero,
2005). In 1962, the founder of Taco Bell, Glenn Bell, created what became known
as the prefabricated taco shell. His innovation was inspired by the Mexican
flavors from a local restaurant called Mitla’s Café in the California area. Professor
and taco historian Jeffrey Pilcher points out that globalization has caused a taco
explosion that negatively impacts traditional Mexican cuisine. Many ethnic
cuisines and restaurants within American culture often have to compete with
industrialized replications of their native comfort food:
The authenticity behind the meals is becoming more commercialized,
deviating from the rich history and meanings of what certain food items
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mean to the immigrants and minorities of this country. Pilcher states his
belief on how the success of many popular fast-food chains occurred not
by strategic tapping into certain markets, but the success came due to the
implications of segregation in the Los Angeles area. (Pilcher, 2008).
On one hand, Mexican food is viewed as a fascination and inspiration for
the common meals eaten in America, but on the other hand, Mexican people are
still viewed in a negative light. Journalist, Yvonne Marquez provides a viewpoint
in how tacos and Mexican people have been exploited and appropriated within
American dining facilities. With tacos becoming ubiquitous and undergoing
ludicrous price changes and fusion experimenting, Marquez states, “Now white
people aren’t afraid of eating most tacos since Taco Bell got them well
acquainted. Some have even graduated to wanting more ‘authentic’ versions”
(Marquez, 2015, para. 5).
1.2.6 Whitewashed: Tacos with a Side of Trendy
Gentrification is the villain in this story, influencing the way many
non-Mexican people have come to accept foods such as tacos within their
community. Food gentrification is a term that is often used to describe how the
affordability of staple ingredients can be affected when they become “cool” and
thus costly and ultimately out of reach for poverty-stricken communities that once
and currently depend on them. As a Mexican American, Yvonne Marquez (2015)
urges white Americans to not only go to enjoy what is perceived as an authentic
18
taco but develop more of a cultural understanding and respect for the people and
culture as a whole.
Ethnic food has typically been seen in a lower light until it is “discovered”
by a Caucasian chef, typically male, and is later deemed as trendy, awesome,
incredible; insert any positive adjective, often making minorities or immigrants
feel outraged when “trendy” is affiliated with a meal that has not only been a part
of their childhood but a staple within their culture. Gisele Blair, a student at
Colorado State University, referred to a taco at what is considered to be a hipster
style taco restaurant. She stated that “the tacos in Mexico are made with love and
care and you could tell with each bite. Not slapped together with some crazy
toppings and crazy names and called a taco” (Bair, 2018, para.3).
Gentrification’s effects on the history and authenticity of Mexican cuisine
has left many scars on minorities whose pride in eating their traditional foods was
diminished by the humiliation inflicted by people outside of their culture. Ruth
Tam, a writer and illustrator, describes a personal experience about the feeling of
growing up ashamed of the food her immigrant parents were so proud of making.
Tam says
In the United States, immigrant food is often treated like a discount
tourism, a cheap means for foodies to feel worldly without leaving the
comfort of their neighborhood or high-minded fusion, a stylish way for
American chefs to use other cultures’ cuisines to reap profit. The dishes of
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America’s recent immigrants have become check marks on a cultural
scavenger hunt for society’s elite (Tam, 2019, p. 1).
With tacos being overpriced and the community and culture being
undervalued, Mexican people and Americans are demanding more as tacos are
becoming white-washed and blended into other cultural mediums. Society as a
whole is starting to demand inclusiveness, support of BIPOC businesses,
transparency of ingredients, dishes, pricing, and accessibility towards information
on these specific issues in order to dismantle oppressive initiatives where cultural
cuisine is often being appreciated solely for capital gain. The issues faced within
the Mexican community are deeper than a taco but also represented in them as
well. The face of the taco is typically a white male being praised for his efforts in
discovering the “next best thing” (Godoy & Chow, 2016, p.1).
While white supremacy is usually at the forefront, we often forget about
the real story and contributions, the real people who committed to representing
themselves and what it meant to be Mexican despite how middle-class Americans
perceived it. Most Mexican workers typically have to do the unwanted jobs that
Americans would turn a nose up to. These jobs within restaurants result in
dishwashing, table cleaning, slaving over hot grills, maintaining restrooms and in
return earning poor compensation, enduring physically exhausting labor and
hostile treatment (Parasecoli, 2020). Without Mexican immigrants bringing their
customs, food and culture to America, what would we eat today?
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1.2.7 Activism within Culinary Spaces
Appropriation is more frequently an issue of concern today because
many people are beginning to recognize how appropriation impacts cultures and
identities. A reaction to appropriation has led to the cultural phenomenon known
as ‘call-out-culture’ or ‘cancel culture,’ where people are challenging the
viewpoints of others and demanding reparations for unjust actions, speech and
any other form of discriminatory behavior (Blair, 2020). As a tool for resisting
appropriation, “cancel culture” provides agency for people who feel silenced and
oppressed, giving them a platform to speak out and encouraging others to demand
respect by challenging racist expressions that have been allowed and deemed
normal for years. This growing backlash against appropriation has led to
grassroots movements that actively encourage society to become culturally
competent, including efforts to dismantle notions around appropriation and racist
agendas within restaurant spaces.
A podcast referenced earlier in this paper, The Racist Sandwich, is a
platform that seeks to dismantle and call out racism within the food industry and
its effects on race, class and gender (Kuo et al., n.d.). This is a sign of moving
forward as minorities are gaining the courage to speak out on such issues that
have become burdens in their lives. Other than auditory forms of activism and
seeking to highlight the issues within the food industry, digital storytelling has
helped to amplify this issue (Lundby, 2008). Documentaries such as Taco
Chronicles, Ugly Delicious, Gentefied and Street Food Latin America have
invited non-Latino people to understand more about the culture, food, and sense
21
of pride that comes along with being Mexican or other affiliation within the
Hispanic/Latino community.
Novels are serving as a form of education, specifically for Mexican
Cuisine and diving deeper into the historical making of the taco. Books such as
American Tacos: A History and Guide; Taco USA; Oaxaca: Home Cooking from
the Heart of Mexico are examples of Mexicans seeking to understand and tell the
narratives from their lens. Digital platforms such as Eater seek to provide the
stories and open up conversation about the implications of appropriation of ethnic
cuisines in America. Cook and activist Daniela Galarza is the author of a
cookbook titled Feed the Resistance (2017). Her inspiration for the cookbook was
to spark conversations around racial disparities within food. Feeling a lack of the
reflection of her personal history, she felt as though a “cookbook can be more
than a collection of recipes: It can be a catalyst for change” (Turshen, 2018, para.
2). Outside of home cooking and environments, some restaurants have started to
create dining experiences that help with cultural understanding and keep the
history alive.
Currently, people are proactively seeking to dismantle appropriation and
racism within the food industry in both subtle and overt ways. We are seeing
greater diversity in podcasts, more visibility of cooks of color, and cookbooks
highlighting untold histories. Further, social media platforms provide tools for
speaking out about the issues that have long suppressed the voices within
Mexican culture. In spite of these developments, a conversation is still needed
22
about the way in which restaurants and every day people play a vital role in
integrating cultural understanding within Mexican food consumption.
1.2.8 Using Design to Dismantle Appropriation
Designers can play a vital role in strengthening the connection between
food and cultural understanding when consuming food outside of our own culture.
Food is often overlooked in terms of identifying a deeper meaning. Designers
have the ability to bring out the history and rich stories through a visual medium.
A potential exploration of this concept can be done by placing education at the
forefront and seeking tools to educate people to expand upon the partial
narratives that exist around Mexican cuisine in America.
This is successfully being done at a fast casual Chinese restaurant
based in New York City called Junzi Kitchen, where Chef Lucas Sin uses pop up
dinners as a way to explore the history and unique flavors and ingredients of
various cuisines through storytelling (Sontag, 2020). This has opened up many
diners to Chinese culture and other cultures as well, as Lucas Sin makes a
conscious effort to blend ingredients and discover new tastes with his food.
Through the use of communication design with an emphasis on education, the
intent is to provide restaurant patrons the opportunity to educate themselves
further about Mexican cuisine, leveraging current mediums that will help to
provide a broader outlook towards Mexican cuisine. This can be executed by
highlighting multi-dimensional aspects of what makes Mexican cuisine what it is
23
today. This thesis seeks to answer this question: How can design help restaurant
patrons develop cultural competence when eating at a Mexican restaurant?
Methodology
This thesis argues that a tool that centralizes information regarding
Mexican cuisine and culture will help to increase cultural understanding of
restaurant patrons and restaurant owners. The study employed a mixed
methodology approach consisting of qualitative and quantitative methods.
Surveys, interviews, ideation sessions and design solution testing were used to
gain an understanding of the ideal content needed for supporting the development
of cultural competency and responsibility around Mexican cuisine within
American culture.
The specific methodology used was a survey design, along with insight
clustering guided by the Design 101 methodology course book (Kumar, 2013).
Insight clustering was executed through an online service called Miro, where
digital sticky notes were used, categorized and color coded to highlight insights
based on the commonality found in the data. This survey was specifically
designed and distributed in hopes of reaching a wide audience of different
demographics to gain their personal insight on the appropriation and
misrepresentation of various cultural cuisines. Some demographics, however, are
not pertinent for the sake of this study and are thus not included in the data. For
24
example, the gender of respondents was not tracked as it likely would not affect
the outcome of this study.
To begin, a sample of fifty participants between the ages of 18-64 were
recruited for the survey study. Following the survey, five expert interviews were
conducted to gain further knowledge about the culture and restaurant industry and
put the survey responses in context. Following the survey and interviews,
voluntary ideation sessions were conducted with five participants who had taken
the survey and indicated their interest in participating further. These five
participants had also self-identified themselves as being of Mexican and Latino
descent. Recruiting occurred through various social media and online channels,
including Facebook, Instagram, Reddit, and Google. The primary users of this
research would be restaurant patrons between the ages of 16 – 65 who enjoy
eating out at Mexican restaurants. The primary stakeholders would consist of
owners and employees of Mexican restaurants who implement the design
solutions within their establishment to encourage education about and
understanding of Mexican cuisine. This increased cultural understanding would
benefit not only patrons, but also restaurant staff.
Quantitative Study Design
Research began with a quantitative study seeking to find which cultures
were most heavily impacted by culture appropriation. The method for this study
consisted of an online survey, which allowed for a broad audience. Surveys were
25
sent out via social media channels such as Reddit, Facebook and LinkedIn.
Ultimately 50 participants participated in the initial survey.
The participants voluntarily completed the survey and remained
anonymous. The age of the participants was between 18 and 64 and they were
asked to identify themselves as an immigrant, descendant, or neither (Figure 2 and
Figure 3). The survey data showed trends which helped in providing further
insights based on the respondents who participated in the study. 83% of the
respondents were under the age of 34, and a contributing factor to the
participation of these specific ages is largely due to the survey being conducted
online.
When the general population was asked to identify their status of being an
immigrant, descendant or non-immigrant, more than half of the participants
(51.2%) identified as non-immigrant, 32.6% stated that they were descendants,
and 16.3% said that they were immigrants. On the other hand, another survey was
conducted with another population, specifically Hispanic/Latino population, the
opposite was true, as a majority of the respondents (57.1%) were immigrants,
28.6% were descendants, and about 14.3% considered themselves to be
unaffiliated with either term. The diverse responses of the data helped to highlight
the impact of appropriation within certain communities despite being an
immigrant or non-immigrant. Both opinions were crucial and valued to help
further the study.
26
Figure 2. Pie chart of age demographics of survey participants. Appropriation vs. Appreciation.Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
Figure 3. Pie chart of immigrant identification of survey participants. Appropriation vs.Appreciation. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
1.2.9 General Population Survey
The twenty-question survey was crafted through a Google survey form
application and ultimately posted as general posts on social media channels for
anyone to access. No participants were solicited individually. Participants were
asked a series of questions to understand their attitudes about appropriation versus
appreciation among ethnic themed restaurants.The questions targeted the general
population's understanding of appropriation and which culture they felt was
27
impacted the most by this phenomenon. Questions were displayed and measured
using multiple choice, checkboxes, and open-ended responses, which allowed
participants to explain their stance on the question being posed and provide
additional qualitative data. Below is a sample of a few questions and answer
options displayed in the survey:
Q1: Do you think that restaurants are more likely to appropriate or
appreciate cuisines from other cultures? (multiple choice sample, six
options from strongly agree to strongly disagree and none of the above)
Q2: Based on your answer to the previous question, please list any
restaurants that come to mind, that you would consider being an example
of cultural appropriation or appreciation. (Open Ended Question)
Q3: Thinking about food, which culture is more likely to experience
cultural appropriation? (checkbox choice question, options presented
below)
● African (Ethiopian, Moroccan, Ghanaian, Somali, etc.)
● North American (American, Canadian, etc.)
● Asian (Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Indian, etc.)
● Caribbean (Haitian, Cuban, Salvadoran, Jamaican, etc.)
● Central America (Mexican, Costa Rican, Guatemalan, etc.)
● European (German, Greek, French, Italian, Spanish, etc.)
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● Mediterranean (Moroccan, Turkish, Egyptian, Tunisian, etc.)
● South American (Chilean, Brazilian, Venezuelan, Peruvian, etc.)
● Other…
1.2.10 Procedure
Participants were contacted via social media channels (Facebook,
Instagram, Reddit, LinkedIn) and presented with an overarching description of the
survey topic, which was titled Appropriation vs. Appreciation. A follow up survey
study was conducted among severalHispanic/Latino participants who indicated an
interest in providing additional information. This data was used to compare and
assess the issues of appropriation within cultural cuisine.
1.2.11 Data Analysis: Quantitative Study
After collecting the data from the study, the following themes emerged
from the survey data: the individual’s perception of culture appropriation, the
preservation of culture in everyday life, and the role that restaurants play in
exhibiting appropriation or appreciation towards cultural cuisines. These specified
themes guided the analysis and conclusions discussed below in the results section.
Qualitative Study Design
The specified method for the second part of the study consisted of a series
of in-depth interviews with experts within food, restaurant and historical/cultural
29
professions. This allowed for an in-depth understanding surrounding the issues of
appropriation and the opportunities for education within restaurant spaces.Due to
the limited interactions that arose due to COVID-19, in-person interaction was
prevented among participants for safety; therefore, all interviews were conducted
online via platforms such as Zoom and Microsoft Teams.
3.1 In-Depth Interviews
The interviews further explored the trends uncovered by the survey, and
were geared toward uncovering issues of cultural appropriation within the realm
of the restaurant space. The methodology used, known as a Subject Matter
Experts Interview, is a method that allows researchers to gain more insight on a
particular topic through an in-depth interview with a person who is very
knowledgeable or considered an expert on a particular topic (Kumar, 2013). Three
experts were selected on the criteria of their personal or professional relationship
with food, cultural understanding of Mexican cuisine and culture, and the desire
for more representation within food spaces. All interviewees were asked to help
capture their personal take on the misrepresentation of Mexican cuisine and
culture within America. The interview foci addressed how this research may
impact society, how it might be implemented, and participants’ personal thoughts
on the importance of using food as a means to educate others and provide more
meaning for Mexican cuisine in restaurant settings.
30
The first expert interview was conducted with Jose Ralat, an editor at
Texas Monthly, who writes about tacos and Mexican cuisine. Ralat shifted his
career when finances were tight and started to educate himself about the history of
Mexican cuisine, specifically tacos. When the opportunity arose for him to write
his first article, he took it with no hesitation and is now consuming tacos all
around the United States and Mexico. Ralat’s sole purpose is to not just highlight
the best taco spots but to highlight the people, culture, voices and history behind
the delicious tacos we consume.
In the interview, he stated that “Mexican food is not static. Mexican food
is fusion and always wins!” (Ralat, 2021). The interview consisted of
conversations about appropriation, racism and the important roles that consumers
and restaurant patrons play in terms of crediting the Mexican culture and the
people. Ralat discussed the importance of these topics and the need for them to be
brought forth in order to continue to progress as a conscious society. Here are
some key insights that were highlighted during the interview:
• “Cultural competence means that consumers and restaurants are holding
themselves accountable by educating themselves about the history of the
food and respects the traditions and flavor profiles. It’s a partnership”
(Ralat, 2021)
• Menu designs could potentially serve as a way to educate consumers
when it comes to understanding Mexican food
31
• Appropriation is a complex topic and consists of wider aspects such as
racism and the suppression of Mexican people, who are often making the
meals and coming up with the recipes
• Traditional is a term that should be used over authentic
• The foundation of Mexican food is regionality
• A lot of Mexican restaurants leverage social media to educate people
about their menu
The second expert interview was conducted with Jeffrey Pilcher, a
professor at the University of Toronto. He shared knowledge about food history in
the classroom and is also the author of the books Planet Taco: A Global History of
Mexican Identity; ¡Que vivan los tamales! Food and the Making of Mexican
Identity; and Food in World History. Pilcher was an important addition to this
study, as he is a food historian who has studied Mexican food and educates others
about the cuisine. His input helped to explain the needs of consumers and the
ideal ways of using design to effectively educate in a restaurant establishment
(Pilcher, 2021). Specifically, he addresses the role designers can play in building
upon established artifacts within restaurants, such as the menu. In doing so, he
explained how we can improve upon the information we decide to highlight when
it comes to educating Americans within the restaurant scene which is further
discussed in the results below. Here are some key insights that were highlighted
during the interview:
32
• Think about the regions of Mexican food
• “That is a loaded question, I would say create opportunities for people to
understand Mexican cuisine but don’t make it an obligation” (Pilcher,
2021)
• We have this idea of what a taco should be, typically an exotic image of
what Mexican food or Mexico should be like
• The focus should be on the women, women are often overlooked
in these cases
• Authenticity – everyone has a different definition of this
• The idea of fusion and straying away from traditional dishes is really
about money, people make what the Americans want because they want to
appeal to the general audiences
• More emphasis should be placed around menu design to help educate
consumers in terms of traditional foods being displayed, the use of
geographical elements highlighting regional differences and opportunities
for further culture introduction such as use of Spanish, imagery and
storytelling on the menu.
Chevonne Bridgeman studied as pastry chef in New York City, where she
was classically trained in French-style pastries. In a personal communication with
the author, Bridgeman stated how, along with being a pastry chef, she took it upon
herself to understand the business. She took classes in restaurant management and
spoke further about this topic during the interview. Bridgeman stated that “being a
33
chef is a culture of learning, you are always learning especially about other
cultures. Learning about different cultures makes people more well-rounded and
helps to bring people together easier.” As Bridgeman has Latina roots and a
background in culinary arts, this interview helped to further knowledge about the
restaurant industry, the personal roles of restaurant staff and the personal stake
restaurants have in terms of their responsibility in educating consumers coming to
their establishments (Bridgeman, 2021). Here are some key insights that were
highlighted during the interview:
● Descriptive menus are important - “That’s great that you
have an enchilada, but what is it?”
● Highlight traditional dishes and explain what they are
because people have heard of it but don’t really know what
it is. The front of the house is the most responsible for this
and would provide an opportunity for them to talk about
traditional dishes, spices, etc.
● It is 60% the consumer's responsibility to educate
themselves and 40% the restaurant’s responsibility to
educate the consumer
● A lot of Hispanic cultures may be kind of embarrassed of
their culture because not a lot of Americans are accepting
of the language, the people and often the cultural dynamics
and don’t end up making culture a primary aspect
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The author also had the opportunity to speak with design student and
former server Giuseppe Vincenzo Martini, who worked at his family's Italian
restaurant, where he learned about traditional Italian food and the food industry.
Although Martini worked in an Italian restaurant, his viewpoint as a server helped
to provide insight on how culture can play a role in not only Mexican style
restaurants but other restaurants, as well. The interview with Martini served as an
opportunity to see current ways restaurants were educating consumers (if they
were) and the potential opportunities for design within the restaurant space
(Martini, 2021). Here are some key insights that were highlighted during the
interview:
● For business, restaurants have to cater to the Americanized
version due to many not knowing what is traditional Unless
you are in Arizona or California it depends on the region in
terms of what you consume traditionally
● “The server can make the experience as well. I think it is
the consumer’s responsibility to educate yourself. The
restaurant is providing you a service that they are going out
of their way to do. It is on the customer to better understand
that culture” (G. Martini, personal communication, January
10, 2021)
35
● Menu items are tested and curated based on what is
successful on the consumer end
● Menu design is important and is often the way to draw in
someone’s attention
Once all interviews were concluded, insights gained during this process
were coded, categorized, and then placed into subcategories for in-depth
understanding. The coding process consisted of transcribing the interviews and
using a color coding process to help identify the common themes discussed
throughout the interviews. After the coding process, the methodology used for
categorizing data was guided by Design 101 Methods. The method used here was
in Mode Four, specifically using an insight clustering matrix to help explore ideas
further (Kumar, 2013). This method was selected because it helped to reveal
patterns within the interviews and provided insight on opportunities for design
within restaurant environments. Looking at the discussion points that many of the
participants made, there were insights on the intentionality of terminology in
restaurant spaces, menu design and whether the responsibility in becoming
culturally competent rested in the hands of the restaurant or the consumer. A few
commonalities are discussed below.
36
3.2 Ideation Session
This qualitative ideation session was guided by design research
methodology which allowed in-depth insight on necessary content needed for
restaurant patrons to develop competency around Mexican cuisine (Kumar, 2013).
The specified subset group allowed for a narrow research focus in highlighting
what is important within Mexican culture in terms of cuisine and how it should be
displayed.
Participants
The participants for the ideation session were recruited from a group
within the Cincinnati community called LatinX Affairs. LatinX Affairs is a
student organization affiliated with the University of Cincinnati that seeks to
create community for Hispanic and Latino students. The mailing list was created
based on the individuals who consented to be involved in an online ideation
session to help further the study. The primary qualification for the ideation session
was identifying as Mexican or of Latin descent. The primary reason for this was
to identify how to improve the restaurant's narration of Mexican cuisine and the
necessary content needed for patrons to understand the cuisine from a different
lens. The individuals were eligible to participate in the study as long as they had
access to a phone or laptop for the virtual interviewing process. All ideation
sessions were performed individually.
37
The average participant ranged from 20 - 34 years, and the group
consisted of students, parental figures, professors and restaurant staff. The group
of students included undergraduate and graduate students. The restaurant staff
included a former server at a Mexican restaurant and parental figures primarily
consisted of mothers in their mid 30’s with 2 - 3 children. Professors in this study
taught Spanish language courses and history courses within university settings.
Procedure
Upon completing the initial survey, participants who provided their
contact information (waiving their anonymity) agreed to further in-depth
interviews. Eight one-on-one ideation sessions were conducted within a four week
period. The ideation sessions were designed using a qualitative approach called
virtual interaction. Each session was personally moderated and lasted between
thirty minutes to an hour. Sessions were originally designed based on an activity,
where participants were asked to create a photo collage using the Pinterest
platform and using sheets of paper for a word writing and drawing exercise. The
session began with a warm-up, asking participants to discuss their favorite taco
and to describe their worst cooking experience. Following the warm-up questions,
participants were then asked, “How would you define Mexican Cuisine?” and to
answer the questions visually by making a photo collage using Pinterest. All
participants except one decided to verbally communicate the questions. The one
participant completed the photo collage exercise and then decided to verbally
38
respond to the following questions for the session (See Appendix F for photo
collage).
Data Analysis
The ideation sessions were virtual and recorded using platforms such as
Zoom and Microsoft Teams. Videos were played back and analyzed word for
word using the initial software the ideation session was conducted on. Analysis of
the data involved coding and insight clustering to identify the commonalities and
emerging themes that restaurants and consumers should be aware of when it
comes to Mexican cuisine and the culture.
Design Solution Testing
This final quantitative survey was designed to gain insight about what
patrons desired to learn about Mexican cuisine within a restaurant setting and
sought to understand the most effective places to display the content.
Participants
The participants for the ideation session were selected from the group that
participated in the initial survey, and they were contacted as a group and recruited
based on indication that they would like to participate in a follow-up survey.
39
About 15 participants were recruited from the general population survey and the
survey that focused on the Hispanic/Latino subset group.
Procedure
The survey was designed using Google’s online survey form application.
This provided an accessible means for all participants to access the survey on
their own terms. All survey questions were designed to gain further insights on
the desired content that would help patrons become culturally competent in
restaurant settings. This survey study was conducted to understand the important
content needed for restaurant patrons to increase understanding around Mexican
cuisine and culture. The survey determined which artifacts (menus, screens, etc.)
were best for displaying this information within a restaurant setting. The survey
completion time averaged five minutes.
Results
Responses indicated that appropriation appears to be less of a concern for
participants, but there is still a lack of understanding about Mexican culture.
There is an interest in learning about the culture and many survey respondents felt
as though the responsibility of understanding a culture's cuisine lies with both the
restaurant and the patron. Participants who identified as Hispanic/Latino(a) were
concerned about the lack of interest in maintaining the traditions of the food, rich
flavors and cultural customs to appeal to the American palate. The data was
placed into categories which are displayed in the following text.
40
Appropriation or Appreciation
The survey responses led to a large proportion of participants (48.8%)
stating that restaurants are likely to engage in appropriating other cultures. About
32.6% of the survey participants did not agree that restaurants engaged in cultural
appropriation. This finding suggests that although appropriation was apparent for
many participants, it was not viewed as an intentional act against other cultures.
The remaining 18.6% were unsure about the topic and did not seem to consider
appropriation when it came to eating food (Figure 4).
Figure4. Pie chart of whether restaurants appropriate or appreciate cuisines.Appropriation vs. Appreciation Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey(2020).
A participant from the ideation session provided further insight into theidea of appropriation vs. appreciation of cultural foods that have shaped theAmerican palate.
Chipotle and Pizza Hut come to mind. Chipotle I feel is the culmination ofMexican dishes intermixing with Texas cuisine and producing theAmericanized version. I don’t necessarily find cultural appropriation incuisine-it's like dance to me-they grow and expand because of theintroduction of new ideas. It’s more appreciation if anything. Pizzaactually originated from China from rice patties, not from Italy. We getthese notions of the diaspora of food and it’s funny they becomemisconstrued in their very notion of “origins''. We are always learning
41
from one another '' (Appropriation vs. Appreciation, Google Form Survey,Conducted December 2020).
Participants who identified themselves as Hispanic/Latino were primarily
concerned with the lack of appreciation for Mexican cuisine and culture. Many
felt as though restaurants engaged in appropriating the culture, leading to
misrepresentation of Mexican cuisine within restaurant spaces. Participants who
identified as Hispanic/Latino also tended not to recognize fast food restaurants as
authentic Mexican restaurants. One participant stated how restaurants end up
changing their cultural identity in order to satisfy some customers. They shared
that restaurants usually do not take into account regional differences, geographical
differences or historical contributions. Below are comments and other data from
the survey.
Figure 5. Pie chart of whether restaurants appropriate or appreciate cuisines Hispanic/Latinosubset group. Appropriation vs. Appreciation Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
42
A participant from the ideation session provided further insight into theidea of appropriation vs. appreciation within restaurant settings.
“All food from different cultures end up “Americanized” meaning it will
be more quantity than quality, skipping the variety of spices, changing
meats, all served with ranch, and a big cup of ice and Coca Cola.”
“Because I’ve seen many restaurants use these cuisines, but no longer
staying true to their origin. They lack authenticity but take most of the
credit.”
Almost half of all survey participants (48.8%) strongly agreed or agreed
that restaurants engage in appropriation. Mexican cuisine was mentioned most
frequently as the cuisine that is most likely to be appropriated, followed by Asian
cuisine (Figure 6). Fast food restaurants such as Chipotle, Taco Bell, and Panda
Express were mentioned as the primary culprits of appropriation.
43
Figure 6. Bar graph of the most appropriated cultural cuisines. Appropriation vs. AppreciationSurvey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
The in-depth expert interviews provided further understanding and
knowledge around the restaurant industry and history of Mexican cuisine and
culture. The categories that helped to provide insight towards this idea were the
importance of being intentional about the terminology we use when labeling or
describing Mexican cuisine, utilizing menu design as a tool for education, and the
value of being culturally responsible and competent. These ideas would
apply to all restaurant patrons entering restaurant spaces, as well as the restaurant
establishment providing the tools and information necessary for patrons.
The ideation session helped to clarify how, although appropriation is an
issue, there are ways to increase understanding and competency toward Mexican
cuisine and culture. With the Mexican population being a large minority group, it
helped to reveal important aspects of the culture that are absent within many
Mexican restaurants in America. The categories that helped to provide insight
were the need for educational resources and content, preserving traditions,
representation of traditional tacos, and culture not being prioritized. Looking at
the discussion points that many of the participants made, they provided insight on
how educational resources, preservation of tradition and appreciation will help to
expand the perceptions of Mexican cuisine within American dining.
The ideation session helped to further understand how although
appropriation is an issue, there are ways to increase understanding and
competency toward Mexican cuisine and the culture. The Hispanic/Latino
44
population became an important subset group for this study, as it helped to reveal
important aspects of culture that are absent within Mexican restaurants in
America. Looking at the following discussion points that many of the participants
made, there was insight on how educational resources, preservation of tradition
and appreciation will help to expand the perceptions of Mexican cuisine within
American dining.
3.3 Intentional Menu Design
Additionally, a commonality between interviewees was the importance of
the menu and serving staff in restaurant settings. The menu was a common talking
point during all four interviews, as this was typically the point of contact for all
restaurant patrons. Therefore, they felt as though there was an opportunity for the
restaurant to include additional information within the menu to increase
appreciation for other cultures and help guests in developing cultural
understanding. Serving staff was seen as having an important role outside of the
menu, as it is one of the responsibilities of servers to educate patrons about the
menu. This was viewed as a potential opportunity for cultural understanding as
servers can highlight traditional dishes, spices or even inform customers about the
history behind the top dishes commonly ordered. Previous quotes were captured
and categorized again here:
45
Interview 1:
Menu designs could potentially serve as a way to educate consumers when
it comes to understanding Mexican food (J. Ralat, personal
communication, February 12, 2021).
Interview 2:
More emphasis should be placed around menu design to help educate
consumers (J. Pilcher, personal communication, February 18, 2021).
Interview 3:
Descriptive menus are important - “That’s great that you have an
enchilada, but what is it” (C. Bridgeman, personal communication, March
7, 2021).
Highlight traditional dishes and explain what it is because people have
heard of it but don’t really know what it is. The front of the house is the
most responsible for this and would provide an opportunity for them to
talk about traditional dishes, spices, etc.
Interview 4:
Menu design is important and is often the way to draw in someone’s
attention (G. Martini, personal communication, January 10, 2021).
“The server can make the experience as well” (G. Martini, personal
communication, 2021).
3.4 Culturally Responsible
46
Based on all the interviews, the interviewees were divided in regards to
which person should be culturally responsible in the restaurant environment. Here
were some of the commonalities:
Interview 1:
“Cultural competence means that consumers and restaurants are holding
themselves accountable by educating themselves about the history of the
food and respects the traditions and flavor profiles. It’s a partnership” (J.
Ralat, personal communication, February 12, 2021).
“An informed business does their hw and respects traditions and flavor
profiles” (J. Ralat, personal communication, February 12, 2021).
Interview 2:
“That is a loaded question, I would say create opportunities for people to
understand Mexican cuisine but don’t make it an obligation” (J. Pilcher,
personal communication, February 18, 2021)
Interview 3:
“60% of the consumer's responsibility to educate and 40% of the
restaurant’s responsibility to educate” (C. Bridgeman, personal
communication, March 7, 2021).
Interview 4:
“I think it is the consumer’s responsibility to educate yourself. The
restaurant is providing you a service that they are going out of their way to
47
do. It is on the customer to better understand that culture” (G. Martini,
personal communication, 2021).
Despite a few discrepancies regarding perceptions of responsibility for
bridging the gap of cultural understanding, the interviewees highlighted the
importance and opportunities for both parties. Many viewed the restaurant as
having more of an obligation to provide information, but others believed that
patrons coming into the space are just as responsible in educating themselves
when it comes to eating outside of their culture. This insight led to the design
implication benefiting both restaurant staff and patrons, and would increase their
cultural understanding when consuming other cultural foods. Being that
interviewees came from various backgrounds and occupations, it allowed for a
diverse perspective in how the issue of misrepresentation of Mexican cuisine
could be solved using design.
The first ideation session helped to clarify how although appropriation is
an issue, there are ways to increase understanding and competency toward
Mexican cuisine and culture. With the Mexican population being a significant
minority group, it helped to reveal important aspects of the culture that are absent
within Mexican restaurants in America. Looking at the following discussion
points that many of the participants made, there was insight on how educational
resources, preservation of tradition and appreciation will help to expand the
perceptions of Mexican cuisine within American dining.
48
Educational Resources and Content
Most participants identified that education about Mexican culture needs to
be explored and how restaurants could go about inviting consumers into the
conversation. Ease of use and suitability will be key for any tool used to aid in
cultural competency. A digital platform can be developed for menus and used to
provide pertinent food information. The opportunities participants felt would be
valuable were digital catalogs that included information about spices, drinks and
ingredients, a digital map highlighting Mexico and the United States, showing the
region of certain cuisine and the origin of a dish. There were also discussions
about highlighting the culture beyond the food such as Mexican holidays and
celebrations and the importance of family dynamics in Mexican households.
P1: A catalog of spices that include information on the country of origin
and when to use would be desirable.
P5: Create a drink recipe book by region
P6: Develop a visual directory that identifies fruit, vegetables, and spices
with an explanation of how to eat and prepare certain items.
Preserving Traditions
Content can be developed to preserve the traditions. Mexican dishes can
be similar and as a result can be confusing. Menus are static but can be the best
tool for the environment. Menus can come to life using technology such as
augmented reality or interactive media to provide more of a visual and interactive
49
experience when referencing certain menu items. This would provide patrons with
information beyond the menu item such as country-of-origin, traditional
preparation and common seasonings and sauce pairing possibilities. This idea
could be further executed through the use of QR codes being placed on the
menus, allowing users to interact using their phones during their wait time or once
they are sitting down at their table for the evening. The QR code could be linked
to an experience that showcases different traditional Mexican dishes, opportunity
to educate Americans about Mexican holidays or even become a game for patrons
to interact with to test their knowledge about Mexican food.
P3: Mexican dishes can be similar. The ingredients are the same but are
paired together differently. A visual should be developed.
Appropriation of Mexican Cuisine
The taco was commonly mentioned among participants. Many felt as
though the taco is a menu item that is most likely to be appropriated. The
authenticity of the taco is a combination of spices, meats, veggies, along with a
homemade corn tortilla. Corn tacos are traditional; flour is American-inspired.
Taco fillings are generally regionally inspired and further discussed in the
following quote.
P2: Corn tortillas are preferred. “Flour tortillas are American” “Corn
tortillas are authentic”. Taco filling preferences varied. Regional filing
preferences were evident. Favorite taco filling mentioned were meat with
50
pineapple (Tacos al pastor - Lebanese influenced); fish (southern
influence), and tex/mex (American influence).
Mexican cuisine is thought to be one of the most appropriated versus all
other ethnic foods. The multitude of Mexican fast-food (Chipotle, Taco Bell,
Qdoba, etc.) or quick serve restaurants are considered an affront towards Mexican
cuisine. Quick serve and fast food Mexican inspired items are highly consumed
but not considered Mexican cuisine. Credit to the Mexican culture is desired
where traditional and non-traditional style Mexican food items are being served.
The authenticity of Mexican cuisine is steeped in tradition and is more about a
shared family experience versus “filling an empty stomach” (anonymous,
personal communication, February 23, 2021). This can be resolved by design
through the use of packaging. Potentially inviting consumers for the opportunity
to learn about traditional Mexican and Americanized dishes through informative
packaging design and iconography. A current display of education within
packaging is seen on Chipotle’s take out bags. Although the company focuses on
agriculture, ethics and culinary, this serves as an opportunity for the company to
educate about the traditional ingredients of Mexican cuisine and dishes. This
design implementation would provide Americans with a broader outlook towards
Mexican cuisine.
51
Culture Deprioritized
The development of cultural competency lies with the environment,
specifically the restaurant in this case, to aid in helping patrons develop cultural
competency. There is little interest in the culture but high interest in the food;
“love the food, disregard the culture” (M. Maldonado, personal communication,
February 15, 2021). The environment is in the best position to stimulate interest
and provide the education needed on culture competency as exemplified in the
following quotes.
P4: Food is not just what you eat to fill your stomach; it’s century old
recipes, eating with your family and incorporating your culture.
P8: US is more concerned with quantity than quality
P5: Cinco de Mayo, Americans took from Mexico as an excuse to drink
margaritas. They made it commercial. This is a day similar to President’s
Day in the U.S., but Americans use it as an excuse to kick off Summer.
Based on the results within this secondary quantitative study, it provided
insight on the importance of the use of design being implemented within
restaurants to educate further about Mexican cuisine. Specifically, looking at how
design could help emphasize menu design, interior designs of Mexican
restaurants, architectural structure of the building and on a smaller scale the
opportunity to use items patrons interact with during their dining experience such
as utensils. Looking at the results from the survey, there was insight on topics of
52
interest around the cuisine, interest in furthering knowledge and learning, the
display of the information and the responsibility of the restaurant or patron to
inform or be informed. All of the respondents (100%), specifically all stated that
they had interest in learning more about Mexican cuisine (Figure 7).
Figure 7. A pie chart of Mexican cuisine and culture learning interest. Using Design toEducate Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
When asked what specifically they would be interested in learning, the top
responses were based on origin of the dish (45.5%), region (81.8%), traditional
vs. Americanized dishes (54.5%) and traditional ingredients and spices (72.7%).
53
Figure 8. A bar graph of the most effective education tools in a restaurant setting. Using Design toEducate Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
Patrons were then asked how likely they were to take the time to learn
about this information at a restaurant. 90.9% of the population stated they would
take the time to interact with this information, whereas 9.1% felt as though they
might take the time to read and interact with the information if it was provided if
they desired to do so.
Figure 9. A pie chart of taking time to learn Mexican cuisine and culture topics. Using Design toEducate Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
54
Participants were asked how the information should be displayed if
restaurants were to include more of this information. The top response was using
the menu (90.9%), signage (45.5%), and utensils/paper products such as napkins ,
coasters and other drinkware and essential dining products (63.6%). The least
popular options included food packaging (36.4%), TV display (9.1%) and
restaurant applications (18.2%).
Figure 10. A bar graph of the most effective education tools in a restaurant setting. Using Designto Educate Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
Ultimately, when looking at cultural responsibility, should the
responsibility of cultural development fall on the restaurant or the patrons
entering into the restaurant space? Participants were asked who they felt was
responsible in terms of being or providing that education in furthering cultural
understanding about Mexican cuisine and culture. All participants felt as though
the responsibility was on both the restaurant and the patrons coming in to eat.
55
Referring back to the expert interviews, trends emerged in terms of the effort
needing to be placed around cultural responsibility and competency by anyone
interacting within the restaurant space.
Figure 11. A pie chart of whether the restaurant or patron is more culturally responsible. UsingDesign to Educate Survey. Retrieved from Google form survey (2020).
After addressing the research question through both quantitative and qualitative
methodologies, a few patterns began to emerge that led to a conclusion for this
research study.
Discussion and Conclusion
This study aimed to explore how design could play a role in educating
restaurant patrons further about Mexican cuisine and culture. This research also
looked into the negative impacts that have resulted in patrons not furthering their
understanding of the culture or the cuisine.
56
A surprising factor within the study, when discussing the issues and
impact of appropriation, revealed that many of the participants did not worry or
think about the appropriation of food. In understanding ideal ways to implement
design in established restaurant settings, both the general population and
Hispanic/Latino subset groups felt as though a menu, either interactive or static,
that provided information about Mexican cuisine would be ideal. Along with the
menu design, during the second ideation session, the Hispanic/Latino group
expressed that a universal icon highlighting traditional dishes could also be
important to add on the menu. Icons such as the Mexican flag, chili pepper,
portrayal of family or parties could serve as a symbol of cultural representation
and a simple solution that could be implemented on standard menu designs.
Participants were asked how likely they were to interact with a menu
design to learn more about Mexican cuisine and 88.9% responded that they are
likely to interact with a menu that provided the information. About 11.1% of the
respondents were unsure if they would interact with the menu in this manner.
Overall, it was evident that the most effective means of communicating this
information is through the use of menus, signage and utensil/paper products. The
least effective means of developing cultural competency were placed towards the
restaurant applications (phone apps), TV displays and food packaging. Many
participants felt that although appropriation might occur, it is not done
intentionally. In terms of having access to specific tools and resources in learning,
all participants expressed interest in furthering their knowledge about Mexican
cuisine and they desired the information to be visibly displayed within the
57
restaurant. When reminded that some websites, restaurants and social media
channels are already educating people, participants expressed the need for
methods that can centralize the information and the desire for restaurants to be
more intentional in educating patrons.
Education possibilities that were mentioned throughout various interviews
included sharing the reasoning behind dish labeling, describing of ingredients,
ensuring that there are informed serving staff and incorporating appropriate visual
language within the restaurant setting. Although many people may not be
receptive of these ideas, one interviewee noted how the intent should not be to
force these concepts on to others but to provide access to the information if it is
desired. Most importantly, the survey revealed that there is a desire and need for
targeted education to be implemented because people's food and eating can be an
especially powerful phenomenon wherein cultural understanding is formed.
This research revealed that education about culture is not at the forefront
in many restaurants. However, education should be prioritized as patrons who
desire to be more informed will often find that accurate culture representation is
lacking within the restaurant space. Focusing on the design implications, the
research provided suggestions for restaurants to utilize specific tools to facilitate
cultural competency as well as provide opportunities for patrons to participate in
the education process.
3.5 Limitations
58
Although this study helped to provide in-depth insight on the impact of
appropriation and misrepresentation within restaurant settings, there are some
limitations in the research. A primary limitation would be the sample size for the
survey results and the ideation session. Although the survey participants were
diverse and they provided holistic insight on the topic, a wider sample size would
have been ideal in gaining further ideas and understanding within the topic of
appropriation in America. Additionally, a risk to this design implementation is
that the platform could be overlooked if restaurant patrons are not willing to take
the extra steps to educate themselves. Restaurants could also be hesitant to
implement these design solutions due to cost, increased time spent during dining
experience, and even lack of interest from management.
The design and process of the initial survey was another limitation as the
survey design was crafted and disbursed prior to interviewing. Whereas the
preliminary research and understanding should have been established and before
the survey. The design of the survey impacted the study due to post interviews
and co-creation sessions because the in-depth sessions helped to curate a different
direction for the project. Therefore, the initial survey questions that were crafted
and displayed were not crucial factors as this study continued in developing. The
timing of the study was a limitation due to this study being conducted during the
COVID-19 pandemic. As a result of nationwide quarantines, any form of
face-to-face interaction and in-person store visits was prohibited, which also
affected the design of the ideation session.
59
3.6 Future Directions and Design Opportunities
The future implications of the project go beyond the restaurant, as
architecture and interior design can aid in designing a more culturally inclusive
environment. An ecosystem map was designed to show the vast opportunities that
lie within this topic (Appendix E), and this was based on an article titled Lessons
from Sin City, which talks about the typology and duck theory within architectural
design. Duck theory is when architectural systems of space, structure, and
program are submerged and distorted by an overall symbolic form (Kohlstedt,
2016). Designers Robert Venturi and Denise Scott Brown state how “the
architectural systems of space, structure, and program are submerged and
distorted by an overall symbolic form” (Kohlstedt, 2016, para. 4). This insightful
read implied how the design of buildings using the duck theory help to explicitly
represent the buildings functions based on shape and construction. This could
apply to Mexican style restaurants as the duck design theory could potentially be
used in the form of a pepper. Peppers and spices are staples within Mexican
culture and could be appropriately applied to this concept in terms of using
architectural design to educate.
This idea can also be applied through gaming. A current example of this is
through designer Lesley Ann Noels critical literacy alphabet deck of cards (2020).
Noels designed a deck of cards as a way to introduce designers and design
students about critical theory and learn to develop their design thinking process.
This is another opportunity that could live within the study of misrepresentation
as a design package for designers and marketers within large food and beverage
60
corporations. The cards could potentially serve as training tools in being mindful
and intentional during the creation of specific advertisements or design work
being displayed nationally and globally for any and all cultural cuisines.
The concept driving this research,“going beyond Taco Bell,” can also be applied
through a grass roots approach within educational systems such as culinary
school, restaurant management programs, grade school and college/universities,
encouraging people to be more culturally aware and informed through the use of
food. Educating young and starting early will allow children to become culturally
responsible and aware.
Other education possibilities include teacher training programs to help
educators understand and further bridge the relationship between food and
cultural understanding. These training programs could also serve as a way to build
understanding and respect among colleagues from varying cultural backgrounds
and could be applied during diversity and inclusion workshops. Along with
traditional education environments, museums would be an ideal place in which
cultural food exhibits could be displayed for educating the American public about
the history of popular cuisines such as Mexican. Social media offers many
opportunities, as chefs and restaurants are increasingly leveraging these platforms
as a way to educate consumers about the history of Mexican cuisine. A
centralized platform where chefs, staff and restaurateurs can contribute equally
would allow for a more personalized search when seeking further information in
regard to Mexican cuisine.
61
National organizations such as the National Restaurant Association (Menu
Labeling, 2019), would be an important group to consider for future implications,
since menu design education is a part of training for restaurateurs and staff. In
today’s society, nutritional labels on restaurant menus are becoming a standard as
patrons desire to know the caloric intake of their favorite meal (National
Restaurant Association, 2019). This same principle could be applied for cultural
responsibility by creating a policy to ensure that patrons are provided with the
history and traditions of a certain meal. Finally, the opportunities of this research
can be extended beyond Mexican cuisine to other cultural cuisines seeking to
represent their traditional roots more accurately within America.
3.7 Conclusion
The findings of this study reveal that there are opportunities for design to
make an impact by helping people develop cultural competency around Mexican
cuisine and culture. Participants in this study considered Mexican food one of the
top cuisines in American to undergo forms of appropriation. Although
appropriation was not a primary concern for many of the participants, it was
evident that restaurants need to make more of an effort in accurately displaying
and crediting Mexican culture and the cuisine. In doing so, important factors to
consider in terms of educational content are the origin of traditional foods,
regional customs and characteristics, traditional Mexican vs. Americanized, and
highlighting the variety of spices, flavors and ingredients that are prominent
within the cuisine.
62
Cultural responsibility emerged as a focal issue in this study as many
participants stated that both restaurants and patrons eating at a Mexican style
restaurants are responsible for educating themselves and providing accurate
information to others. This finding indicates that there is a desire for increased
knowledge of Mexican cuisine and culture. Therefore, cultural responsibility
involves a commitment to education.
Design can help to bridge cultural understanding and become a catalyst of
change with evidence-driven methods that encourage people not only to love a
cuisine but also to love and respect the culture which provided that cuisine. To
that point, and in conclusion, this thesis finds that an informed and interactive
menu design is ideal for educating Americans further about Mexican culture, but
other education opportunities should be explored to highlight the diversity of
Mexican cuisine beyond the Taco Bell narrative.
63
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Turshen, J. (2018, April 05). To change racial disparity in food, let's start withcookbooks. Eater.https://www.eater.com/2018/4/5/17153806/racial-inequality-food-cookbook-authors-publishing
White, R. (2019, November 19). The taco truck: Author takes his research to thestreets. Life and Letters.https://lifeandletters.la.utexas.edu/2019/11/the-taco-truck/
Wilkes, R., & Wu, C. (2019, April 01). Immigration, discrimination, and trust: Asimply complex relationship. Frontiers in Sociology, 4.https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fsoc.2019.00032/full
Wisdom, J., & Creswell, J. W. (2013, March). Mixed methods: Integratingquantitative and qualitative data collection and analysis while studyingpatient-centered medical home models. Agency for Healthcare Researchand Quality, U.S. Department of Health and Human Service.https://pcmh.ahrq.gov/page/mixed-methods-integrating-quantitative-and-qualitative-data-collection-and-analysis-while#:~:text=Mixed%20methods%20are%20especially%20useful,Fosters%20scholarly%20interaction.
Zarling, P. (2018, August 13). Consumers crave authentic ethnic food - and willpay more. Food Dive.https://www.fooddive.com/news/consumers-crave-authentic-ethnic-food-and-will-pay-more/529282/
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Appendix A
Figure 1. Allen, L. (2020). Tostadas [Photograph]. Taste Better from Scratch.https://tastesbetterfromscratch.com/tostada/
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Figure 2. Thomas, J. (2020). Tamale [Photograph]. Unsplash Stock Photography.https://unsplash.com/s/photos/tamale
Figure 3. Rodriguez, C. (n.d). Chile Relleno [Photograph]. Food Network.www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/chile-relleno-recipe-2014121
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Figure 4. Image of Mexican pozole dish. [@claudetteazepeda]. (2021, February1). I’ve been thinking of how menu items with names that we associate with“cheap/inexpensive” food get ordered more and if the price matches the labor andquality guests get irate. #chefclaudette [Instagram photo]. retrieved fromhttps://www.instagram.com/claudetteazepeda/
Figure 5. Pie chart of age demographics of survey participants. Appropriation vs.Appreciation. Retrieved from personal designed google form survey (2020).
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Figure 6. Pie chart of immigrant identification of survey participants.Appropriation vs. Appreciation. Retrieved from personal designed google formsurvey (2020).
Figure 7. Pie chart of restaurants appropriate or appreciate cuisines. Appropriationvs. Appreciation survey. Retrieved from personal designed google form survey(2020).
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Figure 8. Pie chart of restaurants appropriate or appreciate cuisinesHispanic/Latino subset group. Appropriation vs. Appreciation Survey. Retrievedfrom personal designed google form survey (2020).
Figure 9. Bar graph of most appropriated cultural cuisines. Appropriation vs.Appreciation Survey. Retrieved from personal designed google form survey(2020).
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Figure 10. A pie chart of Mexican cuisine and culture learning interest. UsingDesign to Educate Survey. Retrieved from personal designed google form survey(2020).
Figure 11. A bar graph of food learning interest for Mexican cuisine. UsingDesign to Educate Survey. Retrieved from personal designed google form survey(2020).
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Figure 12. A pie chart of taking time to learn Mexican cuisine and culture topics.Using Design to Educate Survey. Retrieved from personal designed google formsurvey (2020).
Figure 13. A bar graph of the most effective education tools in a restaurantsetting. Using Design to Educate Survey. Retrieved from personal designedgoogle form survey (2020).
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Figure 14. A pie chart of cultural responsibility of patrons or restaurants culturalunderstanding. Using Design to Educate Survey. Retrieved from personaldesigned google form survey (2020).
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Appendix B
General Population Survey
Survey Objective: Understanding one's perception of culture appropriation andhow they specifically preserve and appreciate culture within their everyday livesin relation to food.
What type of cuisine do you like?● American ● Creole● Chinese● Cuban● Ethiopian● French● Greek● Indian● Italian● Jamaican● Japanese● Korean● Lebanese● Mexican ● Mediterranean● Soul Food● Spanish● Thai● Vietnamese● Other (specify)
Thinking about the celebrations and everyday life in your own household, how doyou celebrate and preserve the history of food in your own culture?
When it comes to other cultural cuisines, who introduced you to foods outsideyour own culture?
● Family● Friend● Neighbor● Coworker● Teacher/School Environment● Myself
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● Media● Other
What influence, if any did your friends or family have towards your appreciationfor cultural foods? (Please explain) - Maybe ask a question about the media?(open ended)
Culture Appropriation is defined as when a dominant culture adopts the culturalcustoms of a nondominant culture without understanding or respecting theoriginal culture and context.
Thinking about the definition of culture appropriation, do you feel that somerestaurant menus engage in appropriating other cultures? (Likert Scale 1-10)
Do you feel that all dishes or recipes should be prepared as they were originallyintended in order to preserve one’s culture? (Likert Scale 1-10)
Do you feel ethnic cuisines that contain nontraditional ingredients is an exampleof cultural appropriation? (Likert Scale 1 - 10)
Do you feel that culturally inspired dishes and restaurants do not represent a formof cultural appropriation? (Likert Scale: 1 - 10)
How often do you eat out at restaurants?● Always● Sometimes● Rarely● Never● Not Applicable ● Other (please specify)
If you enjoy eating out, how often do you take out?● Always● Sometimes● Rarely● Never● Not Applicable ● Other (please specify)
Do you think restaurants are more likely to appropriate or appreciate ethniccuisines?
● Appropriate● Appreciate ● Neither● Unsure
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Please list any restaurants that come to mind, that you would consider to be anexample of culture appropriation.
● Open ended question
Thinking about food, which culture is more likely to experience cultureappropriation?
● African ● Asian (Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Mongolian, etc.)● Creole● Greek● Indian ● Italian● Japanese● Mediterranean● Mexican ● Spanish● Other
Which best describes you?● Professional Chef● Home cook● Foodie (someone who enjoys eating)● Food Historian● Food Critique● Restaurant Owner● None, I don’t like labels ● Other
Please indicate where you grew up● Rural ● Suburbs● Urban
Please indicate your age● 18-24● 25-34● 35-44● 45-54● 55-64● 65+
Which statement do you identify with?
• I am an immigrant
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• I am a descendant of immigrants• Non-immigrant
Thank you for participating! If interested in being contacted for a zoom groupstudy, please provide your name and contact information below for a furtherparticipation study.
• Email• Name• Number
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Appendix C
Mexican Population Survey
In your words, what does culture mean to you?
Based on the previous question, how do you celebrate and preserve the history offood from your culture in your everyday life?
Culture Appropriation Definition: Taking or adopting different elements ofanother culture and claiming it as your own without giving credit. (GoogleCitation)
Culture Appreciation Definition: Someone who seeks to understand and learnabout another culture in an effort to broaden their perspective and connect withothers cross-culturally while giving deserved credit. (Google Citation)
Based on the previous statement, do you feel that some restaurants engage inappropriating other cultures?
• Strongly agree• Agree• Neither agree nor disagree• Disagree• Strongly disagree• None of the above
Do you feel that American restaurants cooking culturally inspired dishes honorthe intended culture? (ex. Chipotle, PF Changs, Bravos Italian restaurant, etc.)
• Strongly agree• Agree• Neither agree nor disagree• Disagree• Strongly disagree• None of the above
Do you feel that all dishes or recipes should be prepared as they were originallyintended to be made?
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• Strongly agree• Agree• Neither agree nor disagree• Disagree• Strongly disagree• None of the above
Do you feel modern ethnic restaurants in America are faced with having tochange their cultural identity in order to appeal to certain customers?
• Strongly agree• Agree• Neither agree nor disagree• Disagree• Strongly disagree• None of the above
Do you think restaurants are more likely to appropriate or appreciate cuisinesfrom other cultures?
• Restaurants are more likely to Appropriate• Restaurants are more likely to Appreciate• Neither• Unsure
Based on your answer to the previous question, please list any restaurants thatcome to mind, that you would consider being an example of cultural appropriationor appreciation.
Thinking about food, which culture is more likely to experience cultureappropriation?
● African ● Asian (Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Mongolian, etc.)● Creole● Greek● Indian ● Italian● Japanese● Mediterranean● Mexican ● Spanish● Other
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Based on your answer to the previous question, why did you choose that specificculture(s)?
In relation to Mexican Cuisine, what food item if any, do you feel is appropriatedor undervalued in American culture?
Has the authenticity of Mexican food been impacted by American culture?(Scale 1 – 5 – 1 being not impacted at all, 5 being heavy impacted)
Which are you more likely to do when dining out?
• Dine In at a restaurant• Take-out food• Make food at home• Both
Which best describes you?
● Professional Chef● Home cook● Foodie (someone who enjoys eating)● Food Historian● Food Critique● Restaurant Owner● None, I don’t like labels ● Other
Please indicate your age● 18-24● 25-34● 35-44● 45-54● 55-64● 65+
Which statement do you identify with?
• I am an immigrant• I am a descendant of immigrants• Non-immigrant
Which of the following best describes you?
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• Asian or Pacific Islander• Black or African American• Hispanic or Latino• Native American or Alaskan Native• White or Caucasian• Multi-racial or Biracial
Thank you for participating! If interested in being contacted for a design creationsession, please provide an email below. (This is optional!)
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Appendix D
Co-Creation Session | Activity: Picture or word Collage + IconBrainstormSession Time: 45 min
Before we start do you have● 1 - 2 sheets of paper● Pen, pencil or marker● Pull Pinterest board up
o Feel free to do this on your phone or laptop
Quick Warm-up
● What was your worst cooking experience?
● What is your favorite taco and why?
Collage Activity ----- Moderator NotesDigital Photo Collage activity for 20 min
● 15 min each for finding images, positive, things they find offensive● 5 min for explanation
Today we will be starting off by making a digital photo collage as anexercise using Pinterest.
Question 1: How would you define Mexican cuisine? ● Pinterest Board
Question 2: What if anything do you find offensive in relation to yourculture and cuisine?
● Pinterest Board
Alternative - Pen and paper and jot down words● Simple bullet points or words placed on a page (no need to write a
paper or anything)
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We will do this exercise for about 15 min, if you desire or need more timethat will be fine. After this exercise we will take some time to talk aboutyour pins. Also feel free to listen to some music or anything of your choicewhile doing this.
Alright let's see what you have by starting w/ the positive images first andthen the things that you find offensive, etc. If you didn’t find certain thingsyou can always just verbally share out.
Maintaining Culture, Education
Brainstorm Exercise ----- Moderator NotesWord and Drawing Exercise - 25 min10 min - word content exercise | 10 min - drawing portion | 5 min -explanation
For this next exercise you will need 1-2 sheets of paper and a pen, pencilor marker
1 paper will be used for a word exercise1 paper will be used for a drawing exercise
Word Exercise
For this next part I will have you do a word exercise, and you can use yourpaper to write down ideas and thoughts for this next question.
So, the question is...
If there was a digital platform that informed people about Mexicancuisine, what content would you like to see on this platform?
-------
Thinking about what you just wrote down and the images you pinned onyour Pinterest board, if someone were to design an icon around yourideas of what Mexican culture truly represents what would you like tosee?
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What is an iconIcon - An icon is a visual representation used to express or communicateideas or actions
Examples of this, Wi-Fi symbol, gluten free symbol, no smoking, recyclingetc.
How would an icon be used?Whenever people would see this icon, it would be used as a QR code thatpeople could scan and take them to a digital platform where they couldgain more information about Mexican cuisine.
If you feel comfortable you can draw out what you would like for this tolook like or you can write these out.
Ideas to get started!● What colors should be on it?● Are there people that come to mind that truly represent the culture?● Are there images that come to mind that you feel represent the
culture?● Is there a word that could be used as an icon?
Final Wrap Up!
● Thank you for their time● Talk about the potential direction of the design and thoughts
o Universal icon, digital platform, packaging● Ask if they have any questions or comments regarding the session.
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Appendix G
Caldo de Pollo from my abuelita toyouEl caldo de pollo or chicken broth is a magical dish, a remedy for many things, itawakens warmth and emotions. People who have offered me chicken broth at somepoint can safely be considered as the most important people in my life, this includesmy mom, my grandmother, my dad, my closest aunts, and some friends who tookcare of me when they noticed that I was not feeling well.
A good caldo de pollo can cure a strong cold, flu, a hangover, a sad breakup on a coldday, perfect for winters! it is a dish that your stomach and your heart alwaysappreciate, even when you have an upset stomach, caldo de pollo is alwayswelcome. It just makes you feel at home, loved, and strong.
There are many valuable aspects in caldo de pollo, it requires a couple of hours ofpreparation, and good culinary judgment, since there is no single recipe to make it,the person who prepares it must know what to add and the amount for a good flavorand good consistency. It is a versatile dish, that is, you can make it as healthy orhearty as you want it, you can put more protein, more vegetables, or more carbs, andadjust it to your preferences.
Each Latin American country has its version of this dish, depending on thevegetables and herbs they have on their land, but the concept is always the same, atasty soup that will heal your soul.
Ingredients
For the broth:-Chicken thighs-Bone and fat chicken pieces-Bay leaves-Garlic-Salt-Ginger-herbs (rosemary, thyme)-Dried parsley-Cloves-Cinnamon-Sweet pepper
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-Cumin-Cilantro-1 dry chili pepper (chile morita, chile ancho, or chile de arbol)
Vegetables:-5-8 yellow potatoes-7 carrots-2 calabacitas or zucchini-1 Chayote
Final Touch:-Cilantro-Chopped white onion or green onion-1 jalapeño pepper-1 lime
Buy chicken thighs with fat and bones, this provides more flavor to the soup.
Separate the fat and the skin from the meat. Store the meat in the refrigerator.
To start preparing the broth, we will use the fat that we get from the chicken and itsbones.We prepare a quarter of an onion and about 6 cloves of garlic.
We will use a large pot, add a little canola oil, also add the fat and bones of thechicken, the onion, a small piece of ginger, and the garlic, let it cook a bit, as it willstart to release juice and form the flavor.
We begin to add the herbs, we start with 3 bay leaves, a large handful of dried parsley,a half teaspoon of ground cumin, a teaspoon of sweet pepper, some salt, a smallcinnamon stick, 3 cloves, 1 dry chili pepper.
Once we have our mixture ready, stir a little and let it brown for about 10 minutes overmedium-low heat.
When it is golden brown, finally add thyme and fresh cilantro to taste.
Then we add about 4 liters of water and let it boil over medium-low heat for at leastone hour. If you are using a pressure cooker, about 35 minutes.
Once our broth is ready and has gained the flavor we are looking for, we will begin toremove the herbs and the pieces of chicken and bones that we used. Once weremove the large pieces, we can sift to have a fairly clean broth.
We already have our broth, now we will return it to the stove and add the chickenthighs that we kept in the fridge. We let the chicken cook for an hour, and if it is in apressure cooker, about 30 minutes. At this point, you can adjust the salt if necessary.
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Use the chicken's cooking time to prepare the vegetables. Here you can be creative,add all the vegetables you want, but something traditional would be: peeled yellowpotatoes, carrots, chayotes, zucchinis, corn. Cut the vegetables into small, evenpieces so they cook well.
When the chicken is ready, we remove it from the broth and shred it to the size thatyou prefer. And in the meantime, add the vegetables to the broth and cook them forabout 10-15 minutes, depending on how you prefer them.
Once our vegetables are ready, serve the shredded chicken in a bowl, and then addthe broth with vegetables. Something that cannot be missed is the green onion,cilantro, and jalapeño on top of our caldo de pollo, and the last and most importantingredient, a drizzle of lime.
Many people serve this broth with hot corn tortillas on the side.
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Appendix I
Tortilla Recipe
Ingredients
4 cups all purpose Flour1 teaspoon of Salt1 teaspoon of Baking soda1/4 cup of vegetable oil
Directions
Mix these ingredients together in a large bowl to make dough.Add a little flour if it’s too sticky.
Then you take a small hand full of dough and roll into a ball.
Then roll balls with a wooden rolling pin on a hard surface until flat.
Do not worry about shape in the first batch, you will get better withpractice.Aim for about 6 x 6 inches for the tortillas.
Immediately after rolled, each individual must be thrown on to a cast ironflat surface skillet or called sarten for in Spanish.
Watch them carefully and flip on the other side before burning.They should be crispy and not doughy just like cake.
Enjoy!
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