The Veneration of Womb-Tombs
Transcript of The Veneration of Womb-Tombs
The Veneration of Womb Tombs:
Body-Based Rituals and Politics at the Tomb of Mary and Maqam Abu
al-Hijja1
Nurit Stadler and Nimrod Luz
Last version of this paper was published in Journal of Anthropological
Research, 70 (2), 2014.
The present article examines the social dynamics at sacred ‘womb-tombs’ in an effort
to discern this architectural form’s impact on contemporary religious experiences,
politics and landscapes. With this objective in mind, Christian veneration at Jerusalem’s
Tomb of Mary is compared to Muslim worship at Maqam Abu al-Hijja in the Galilee.
Drawing on our ethnographic findings, we posit that the shrines’ ancient structure
represents the poetry of the human body and symbolizes death and regeneration. More
1 This article is part of a wide-ranging project on sacred sites
in Israel/Palestine. Special thanks to the Israel Science
Foundation (grant no 0321861) and the Shaine Centre for Research
in Social Sciences for their generous support. We also owe a debt
of gratitude to Avi Aronsky for his fine editing and helpful
suggestions throughout the writing phase.1
specifically, we show that in these places Muslim and Christian in Israel/Palestinian fuse
the ancient symbol of the womb/tomb with local minority identities for the purpose of
bolstering their claims to nativeness, lands and resisting the state and hegemonic
group. Accordingly, the symbols of rebirth that inform these venues have both personal
and collective significance, as fertility and wellbeing rituals are also used as metaphors
for the soil and indigenousness. In Israel/Palestine, these activities transpire within the
context of socio-political struggles, not least those between the majority and minorities
over the land.
Key Words: womb tomb, religious revival, politics of sacred
places, religion and the body, tomb veneration, Muslim and
Christian holy sites in Israel/Palestine
Introduction
The present article explores how womb tomb shrines are venerated,
revived and modified by minorities in contemporary
Israel/Palestine. While most pilgrimage scholars focus on either
communitas or the contested nature of sacred places, this paper
investigate these sites from the perspective of womb tomb2
veneration and territorial claims. Drawing on our ethnographic
findings on Christian and Muslim worship , we contend that the
ancient structure of these venues indigenize place and help
minorities stake a claim to the land while creating their own
sense of place. It would seem that since their primal
manifestations (circa 18000 BCE) womb tombs have articulated the
poetry of the human body, imitating the anatomy of reproduction
and symbolizing death, birth and regeneration. As such, these
sites are conducive to body-based forms of rituals that derive
from primordial, indigenous rituals. Moreover, these same acts
are amenable to interpretations that are embedded in local
traditions (Turner 1967:27, 56, 114, 155). As we show, their
ancient components are heavily influenced by present-day local
politics, especially land claiming. Thus, the visits to these
enclosed and dark venues express a group’s inherence to the
site/land/soil. From a political standpoint, the pilgrims view
these intimate bodily experiences through the prism of
territorial and Muslim/Christian minority rights to the place.
Consequently, the attendant rituals evoke a sense of national
rebirth and buoy their attempts to reclaim what they deem to be3
their ancestral lands (Myerhoff 1974; Scarre 2011) 2. Put
differently, land tenure rights that are expressed via womb-tomb
rituals are a means for construing indigenous belonging (Gelder
and Jacobs 1988; Harris, 2002).
Over the next few pages, we will survey our comparative
ethnography on Christian and Muslim worship at Jerusalem’s Tomb
of Mary and Maqam Abu al Hijja3 in the Lower Galilee,
respectively. As it now stands, womb-tomb shrines are in the
midst of a renaissance in Israel/Palestine and, for that matter,
the entire Middle East. In Israel, this trend is particularly
striking in the vicinity of tombs that are regularly visited by
2 This topic comes up in studies on Native North Americans,
Australian aborigines and Latin American Indians, among others;
(e.g., Myerhoff 1974; Ivakhiv 2001).
3 Literally a ‘place’, the Arabic term maqam generally connotes
a venue where rituals (ziyarat) are performed in honour of a saint
(Goldziher 1971).4
Jewish worshippers, such as the following sites4: the tomb of
Ḥoni ha-Ma’agel5 in Galilean Hatzor; the Idra-Raba cave6;
Rachel’s Tomb near Bethlehem; and the Safad-based tombs of
Yonatan Ben Uziel7 and Isaac Luria (alias ha'Ari)8. There are
also quite a few Christian venues of this sort, like the grave of
4 The Jewish scriptures equate the womb with the tomb. In Hebrew,
the word beten (belly or stomach) often refers to a womb. In this
sense, the earth can also be seen as a womb to which all of
humanity shall return. According to the Psalmist, ‘Intricately I
was wrought in the depths of the earth’ (Psalm 139:15). Likewise,
Job stated that ‘Naked I came from my mother’s womb, and naked I
shall return’ (Job 1:21). In addition, the Mishnaic and Talmudic
literature describes the child-bearing uterus as an ‘opened
grave’. As per a Babylonian incantation, the unborn child ‘is
living in darkness’ and the ‘house of darkness’ will be our
ultimate destination (see Stol and Wiggerman 2000:9).
5 Honi ha-Ma’agel was a pre-Tanaic Jewish scholar (first century
BCE).
6 Portions of the Zohar are said to have been written in the
Idra-Raba, a cave located near the main road between Safad and 5
Elizabeth in the Monastery of St. John in the Wilderness,
southwest of Jerusalem; the Tomb of Lazarus in the West Bank town
of al-Eizariya9; and the cave of the midwife Salome in Beit
Guvrin. Muslims venerate a host of saint tombs as well, such as
the Nabi Salah shrine in Ramla; the shrine of Nabi Rubin, next to
Rishon Le-Zion; and the tomb of Nabi Yusha in Jordan. Despite the
profusion of sanctified womb tomb shrines in Israel/Palestine,
they have yet to merit scholarly attention within the context of
the area’s religious politics and resurgence. In the endeavour of
filling this lacuna, our analysis will revolve around the
following questions: What is the nature and scope of body-based
rituals at womb-tomb shrines? How are these practices translated
Meron.
7 Over the past decade, the grave of Yonatan Ben Uziel, a
prominent student of Hillel the Elder, has become one of Israel’s
most popular Jewish pilgrimage sites.
8 The grave of ha'Ari (a partial acronym for ‘the Holy Lion’) is
located in the old cemetery of Safad.
9 The tomb is the purported site of Jesus’ resurrection of
Lazarus. 6
into acts of personal and minority land ownership? And how do the
attendant customs engender and recreate a sense of place, land
and ethnic belonging?
Womb Tombs and Pilgrimage
For the purposes of this article, based on our observations in
the various sites, we define womb-tomb shrines as closed, dimly-
lit rooms or caves that house the tomb of a reputed saint. As in
Mary’s tomb and Maqam Abu al-Hijja these sites constitute
efficacious platforms for anatomical metaphors, which evocatively
symbolize death and rebirth.
While most pilgrimage scholars focus on either the idea of
communitas or the political nature of sacred places, in this
paper we emphasize the relations between body based rituals and
territorial claims. The first school is represented by Victor
Turner (Coleman and Eade 2004). He explained that during
pilgrimage, liminal processes are analogous to those of the body,
especially ‘gestation, parturition and suckling’ (Turner 1967,
Eliade 1927, 1958, 1973:10310). Huts and tunnels are also
10 Also see Rennie 2006, 2007:193-94.7
redolent of tombs and wombs; and the same can be said for the
moon, on account of its monthly waxing and waning. A case in
point is Mnajdra, a megalithic temple complex in Malta (circa
3000 BCE) that was built to resemble and symbolize the female
body, namely the goddess of regeneration (Gimbutas 2001:55, 60;
Thomas 2000).
Religious architecture has long been known to symbolize
parts of the human anatomy/social body and shaping a unique
religious experience. Caves, the epitome of womb-like
receptacles, served as venues for religious rituals before
assuming residential functions (Mumford 1961; Healy 2007). Dark
recesses were reserved for ceremonies that pertain to life, death
and the after world. Regarded as the Earth’s wombs, caves were
highly venerated places. Those containing a spring, which is
reminiscent of the maternal fluids nourishing the unborn child,
were considered to be especially sacrosanct11. According to
11 In Mesoamerican cosmology, the planet was generally deemed to
be a female (Milbrath 1988:159-60, 1997), so that caves were
closely associated with the Mother Earth/fertility goddess
complex (Brady and Prufer 2005).8
Heyden’s study (1975), these practices cover the entire life
cycle, from birth to demise, reinforcing social order12.
A second school of thought posits that devotional landscapes
reflect not only the physical, corporeal, and symbolic order, but
an area’s political and power structures as well (Kong 2004).
Scholars from this camp are interested in how shrines and their
attendant rituals challenge or resist the status quo. Kong (2004)
argues that the ideologically variegated, contested, and
exceedingly politicized attributes of holy places stem from their
socio-spatial nature. Similarly, Eade and Sallnow (1991:5, 10)13
contend that sacred sites entail a farrago of imported, often
disputed, and radically polarizing interests, perceptions,
images, and discourses regarding the object(s) of sanctification.
12 Mesopotamian mythology also employs these symbols. Inanna, the
Sumerian goddess of sexual love, fertility and warfare, was the
most prominent female deity in ancient Mesopotamia (Jacobsen
1976; Wolkstein and Kramer 1983; Harris 1997; Shin Shifra and
Klein Jacob, 1996:104-5).
13 Also see Chidester and Linenthal 1995.9
For this reason, quite a few of these venues, particularly those
with competing ownership claims over a tangible space, are the
scene of intense power struggles between groups that are locked
in complex religious, political, national, and ethnic disputes
(Bowman 1991, 1993; Bax 1995; Tweed 1997; Harris 1997; Herrero
1999; Berger, Reiter, and Hammer 2010; Gómes-Barris and Irazabal
2009; Napolitano 2009).
Despite the pre-eminence of womb-tomb veneration and
cosmology, surprisingly little has been written on this topic in
the ethnographic literature on Mediterranean (and Middle Eastern)
religions. Hence, the ensuing discussion is predicated on the
scholarly explication of myths, while also garnering insight from
the archaeological record. In this article we demonstrate how the
rituals preformed at Mary’s Tomb and Maqam Abu al-Hijja have been
linked to an age-old tradition of body-based fertility and
wellbeing rituals. In this we take heed of what (1996:69-70)14
14 According to Douglas (1966), there is a constant exchange of
ideas between the physical and symbolic body, so that each
dimension reinforces the other’s categories.10
avers that the body shapes how the physical world is perceived
(also in Mauss, 1934) . In addition, we follow Scheper-Hughes'
and Lock's (1987:7, 30) suggestion to look at three semantic
realms of representation and practice: the individual’s sentient,
the social and the political body (also see Strathern 1996). We
argue that the womb tomb shrine constitutes a place for seeking
preternatural intervention for infertility, fertility, illness
and pain, and as such giving an opportunity to voice local
identities, buttressing claims of nativeness, lands and resisting
current hegemony. Saying that, in Israel/Palestine womb tomb
shrine renewals and restorations are profoundly linked to
assertions of Palestinian identity and land claiming of different
minorities and their voices
Methods
The fieldwork underpinning this anthropological enterprise
consists of roughly a decade of research at both shrines. Each of
the authors launched their respective projects on an individual
basis. Over the last two years, though, we have joined forces on
a comparative study. The nub of the fieldwork at both venues has
11
been our own observations and informal interviews with pilgrims,
visitors and organizers. While attempting to accommodate our
subjects by conversing with them in Arabic, English, French,
Greek and Russian, some of them spoke to us in Hebrew on their
own volition. The findings with respect to Mary’s Tomb were
culled from observations of Orthodox masses, blessings,
processions, rosaries and other rituals between 2003 and 2012.
Although we visited the church throughout the year, the study
concentrated on Jerusalem’s Feast of the Dormition – a holiday
commemorating the Virgin’s last days on Earth (Stadler 2011).
Held on an annual basis from August 25 to September 5, this rite
attracts thousands of pilgrims from both local communities and
Orthodox countries across the globe. Alternatively, the field
work on Maqam Abu al-Hijja commenced in 2002. The survey of
textual sources (mostly in Arabic) was complemented with
routinely observations of the socio-spatial changes of the place
and it's environ. As of 2002 open-ended interviews and meetings
were held with local religious and political figures in the
village. These were complemented with informal interviews with
12
both pilgrims and visitors15 upon their visits and rituals in the
Maqam and we continue to pay weekly visits to this site.
There are a few key differences between the two shrines.
Whereas the pilgrims attending the maqam are comprised entirely
of local Muslims, the Tomb of Mary draws Christian pilgrims from
throughout the Orthodox world. In addition, the latter is a
canonical site. More specifically, it is part of a route that
includes the presumed locations of several momentous occasions in
the Madonna’s life. The tradition of the Dormition Feast at this
site turns up in a number of scriptural texts, some of which are
over 1,600 years old (Shoemaker 2002:3; Rubin 2009). Another
noteworthy distinction surrounds the accessibility and
jurisdiction over the two sites. While the majority of the local
participants in the Jerusalem event are Christian residents of
the Palestinian territories, and many are from the Old City of
15 Not all visits are aimed at practicing faith or conducting a
pilgrimage, some of the people arrive at the place simply to
enjoy the park that was developed next to it. Some of them were
actually oblivious to the religious/sacred aspects of the Maqam
and were surprised when asked about them.13
Jerusalem and surrounding Palestinian neighborhoods; all the
devotees that we have encountered at the Galilean shrine are
Muslim citizens of Israel. By virtue of their status, Israeli
Arabs are unencumbered by formal constraints that could
potentially keep them away from the maqam. In contrast, the
Christian Palestinians at Mary’s Tomb are an intra-Palestinian
minority (see Dumper 2002). Not only are they hindered by various
Israeli authorities and security forces, but face similar
obstacles from Palestinian factors. These contrasting elements
impact the overall experiences in various ways. For example,
there were differences concerning the level of determination to
visit the sites and perform certain rituals as well as the
political meaning of their visits.
In diagnosing our findings, we availed ourselves of both
emic and etic approaches. Put differently, each of the analyses
relied on two distinct source categories: an assortment of voices
and narratives that were obtained during interviews with
subjects; and the interpretation of our own observations, field
notes and comparative perspectives, which largely stem from the
archaeological, geographic and anthropological data on veneration14
at popular sacred sites in general and womb tombs in particular.
As such, we begin our conspectus with the body-based aspects of
womb-tomb rituals, which were largely gleaned from observations
of the pertinent activities at the two shrines, the layout of
each site and the theoretical explication thereof. The discussion
then shifts to the visitors’ politics of resistance and their
narrative of belonging – issues that surfaced during interviews
and informal conversations out in the field.
Womb-Tomb Shrines and the Poetics of the Body
Researchers have shown that the architecture and layout of a
religious venue influence its ambience and can substantially
enhance or detract from the numinous experience therein (Kong
1992:23). As Walter puts it, design and other physical properties
can ‘draw the believer’ into a state of mind. For instance, he
observed that mosques and churches often have ‘surfaces that de-
materialize the walls’ (Walter 1988:75). As we observe when a
site is dimly lit and resembles certain body parts, the effect on
the religious experience is all the more powerful, as its
15
corporeal nature heightens the devotee’s empathy for the place16.
In our finding we see that womb tombs are body-performances in
which internal spatialities are designed to elicit and mediate a
moving bodily experience (See also Rennie 2006, 2007, 2011).
Over the course of the fieldwork at Mary’s Tomb, we
discovered that its simulations of the human body underpinned the
religious experience (see figure 1). Built inside a cavern, its
décor imparts a subterranean, the shrine is a Crusader-era
complex with Byzantine foundations (Pringle 2007:287; Schiller
1978:103). Its commemorative-style cruciform structure, according
to the local Orthodox clergy, embodies the ancient narratives of
the Virgin’s final days on Earth, including her resurrection and
ascent to heaven (see Figure 1). Upon entering the building, the
visitor leaves behind the limpid brightness of Jerusalem for a
16 Additionally, Butler (1993) suggests that ‘the body has to be
materialized: it has to be performed in order to be realized’. In
works on the role of the body in rituals, scholars often focus on
how particular social groups distinguish themselves from others
by cultivating distinctive practices (Bartkowski 2005; Davidman
2011).16
dark passage that solemnly echoes every release of sound. The
building’s doorway is redolent of a uterus. Likewise, its dim and
humid entrance chamber symbolizes a birth canal, a gateway to
regeneration. Once inside, the devotee encounters a monumental
Crusader-era staircase numbering 48 steps. This appreciable
descent to the main level is intended to gradually differentiate
the outside world from the inner sanctum of the womb tomb. At the
bottom of the staircase is a chapel that is purported to house
Mary’s ancient sepulchre. Having reached this chest-high
aedicule, pilgrims crouch down and squeeze their way inside,
where they kiss and fondle the stone tomb. They then squeeze into
the narrow entrance and bend down to touch and kiss the stone
tomb. In these moments, most of the faithful hold vivid
discussions about Mary’s personal effects of their body and life,
such as her shrouds and cincture, which she is believed to have
left here in the cave. Ana, an elderly Orthodox Palestinian, said
that she comes to the shrine after every feast in order to
fulfill the vows she took after giving birth to her eldest son.
Pursuant to her votive offering, Ana helps a few other women
17
maintain the premises. She escorts them in the tomb; explain
about the icons and the various crawling rituals.
These mimetic acts and the interaction with the Madonna’s
clothing draw the faithful ever closer to Mary. As we walked down
the steps on one of our field trips, a middle-aged local
Palestinian woman, Mariam, told us about her long bout with
cancer. According to Mariam, her numerous visits to this site,
particularly the crawling, have helped her overcome the disease.
“After crawling under her icon (the Theotokos) the tumor
“completely disappeared” she said, after she vowed to turn her
visitations to the tomb into a regular life habit. Mariam
described how Mary had provided succor with her own body and how
crawling and kissing the Icon inside the grotto gave her strength
during treatments and her everyday life as a Palestinian woman.
Maqam Abu al-Hijja constitutes another take on this body
based architecture (see figure 2). Nestled amid olive orchards
along the edge of Kaukab, an Arab village in the Lower Galilee,
the compound is unpresumptuous. A modest (5 x 4 meters wide),
roofless courtyard leads to a pair of small halls, the domes of
which have recently been painted a conspicuous green (see Figure18
2). The entrance to the first chamber is so low that visitors
must squat to get inside. Furnished with mattresses and pillows
for sitting, the visitors pray in the direction of the room’s
mihrab (the symbolic niche pointing towards Mecca).
A curved gateway leads to the second, inner hall, which
holds the shrine’s main attraction to visitors – two stone
tombs17. The walls of the two chambers are adorned with various
17 As part of his disquisition on modern-day Egyptian folk
cosmology, El-Aswad (1987, 2002:156, 167) cites the following 19
Islamic ornaments: Quranic inscriptions, photos of major shrines
in Mecca and Madina; and various representations of Jerusalem’s
Dome of the Rock. Some of the inscriptions and photos have been
replaced over the years. However, an embroidery of a verse from
the last chapter of the Quran (Surat al-Nas), which is
traditionally believed to ward off evil, has been hanging on the
wall overlooking the sepulchres since the outset of this project.
Our interlocutors from the village narrate that according to the
traditions, one of the tombs bears the remains of the said Abu
al-Hijja, while the second belongs to either his son or an
story on barrenness: In an effort to stave off divorce, a
childless woman visits a cemetery on a dark, moonless night under
the assumption that a frightening experience can ignite her
reproductive organs. According to El-Aswad, this tale implies
that there is a correlation between womb and tomb, which involves
the cosmic dynamics of birth and rebirth, fertility and
resurrection. Put differently, in our strange universe, it is
quite possible for something to be produced or reproduced by its
antithesis (2002:157).
20
anonymous companion. Upon entering this chamber, devotees pray
near the graves and bend down to stroke and kiss the ornamental
coverings on top of the stone exteriors. The most revered spot is
about fifty centimetres wide nook between the two sepulchres,
where devotees customarily prostrate themselves. According to
several interviewees, pilgrims occasionally spend the night in
the interstice praying for succour and some devotees, they claim,
have been miraculously cured of severe ailments. For this reason,
visitors stay as long as possible near the tombs and the maqam
has developed a reputation for healing powers.
Although there is scarce information about him in the
written historical sources (see Arraf 1993), we do know that Abu
al-Hijja was of Kurdish origin and a senior officer (amir) in
Saladin’s army. During the Third Crusade (1189-1192), he saw
action in the Siege of Acre (Holt 1986). By dint of his valour on
the battlefield, the warrior was granted the revenues from vast
tracts of taxable lands (Iqta'). Most of his fiefdom18, which18 For lack of a better word, we use the European term fiefdom.
However, the Islamic system of granting appanages differed from
the occidental one.21
included the village under review, was in the Lower Galilee. Abu
al-Hijja died in 1196 while heading back to his hometown of Irbil
in modern-day Kurdish part of Iraq (Ibn Taghri-Birdi 1913). This
highly militaristic background is attested in his assigned name
as Abu al-Hijja literally means ‘father of the war,’ but is
probably best interpreted as ‘the fearless warrior’. One of the
questions we asked is why did a renowned local warlord, Hussam
al-Din Abu al-Hijja, merit a burial site that has evolved into a
local pilgrimage destination? It needs to be stressed that this
allegedly intriguing issue (to say the least) rarely bothered or
indeed posed a problem to any of our interviewees. For most of
them the "actual" historical backgrounds is insignificant and
suffice themselves with accepting local traditions: "we were told
that this is a sacred place". For Ali who runs the local post
office in the village and is familiar with the historical
narrative(s), this is surely not an issue. Indeed he is aware
that Abu al-Hijja was not a scholarly man and had neither
religious background not any acclaimed religious virtues during
his life time but as he puts it: "he excelled himself in the
battlefield against the enemies of Islam and died while22
performing Jihad [Istashada in Arabic]". Ahamd, a former mayor of
the municipality provides a highly political motivation for the
veneration of the site and contemporary popularity:
“I feel close to Abu al-Hijja, not because he was a general
or a Kurd, but because he was involved and helpful with the
battle against the Crusaders. Through fighting the Crusaders he
ultimately helped the Palestinian cause and people” (Interview
December 28, 2008).
Both shrines provides an opportunity to venerate a saint in
a unique architecture that resembles certain body parts, its
corporeal nature heightens body practices and the devotee’s
empathy for the place.
Imitating the Human Body: Rituals of Fertility and Wellbeing
23
The use of ancient body-based symbolism and structures in womb-
tomb veneration is closely linked to rituals of wellbeing and
fertility. Due to the sites’ evocation of human organs,
interviewees spoke of their pilgrimages in terms of an odyssey
for convalescence and reproduction. The rite of Mary’s Tomb is
characterized by, among other things, a mélange of fertility
rituals. For instance, on the first day of the Dormition Feast,
the Icon of the Dormition—a revered simulacrum of Mary—is24
transferred from the Matoxion (a monastery adjacent to the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre) to the Virgin’s tomb on the Mount of
Olives. This sacred task is entrusted to a procession of clergy
and lay devotees, which navigates its way through the Old City’s
narrow streets. Most of the feast’s customs, be they part of the
well-established rite of the Jerusalem Patriarchate or the oft-
improvised personal variety, reflect the Orthodox canonical
traditions regarding the Holy Mother’s final days in Jerusalem.
Unlike the rest of the year, the epitaphios (icon) is out in the
open and thus accessible to one and all until the end of the ten-
day celebration. Devotees expressed a desire to touch and kiss
the icon, and to take part in the crawling under the holy icon.
This mass event constitutes the high point of the feast for
practically all the visitors, as they are willing to brave a long
line in order to share a fleeting moment with the sacred effigy.
An Orthodox nun is stationed by the icon for the purpose of
instructing the devotees on how to touch, face, scatter flowers
and basil, crawl and pray before the sacred object. It bears
noting that pilgrims engage in such mass crawlings all over the
globe. Examples of Marian regeneration rituals of this sort can25
be found in the Madonna of the Annunciation Monastery in Tinos
Greece (Dubisch 1995), Mexico’s Basilica of the Guadalupe,
France’s Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes (Harris 1997), and the
Black Madonna in Częstochowa, Poland (Galbraith 2000). Just like
in Mary’s tomb, at all of these sites, the crawling rituals
toward or around Marian icons or relics symbolize the foetus’
transition from the mother’s womb to the world at large (Dubisch
1995).
Maria, an Orthodox-Christian Palestinian from Bethlehem, can
be viewed as a minority within minority. In her words: “I really
like to repeat this ritual again and again, to feel Mary in my
body, [to experience her] life that ended in her Assumption and
reunion with her son.” Emily, a young girls from Beit Jala said
“Walking inside the tomb make me feel at home, close to my
family, when I kiss the icons and crawl I feel that I am loved,
that I belong to this land”. According to many devotees, the
precious moments opposite the sarcophagus are the high point of
their voyage, as some are moved to tears and others are left
shuddering.
26
Compared to rituals at Mary’s Tomb, the annual calendar of
events and daily activities at the Maqam Abu al-Hijja are
characterized by a great deal of improvisation. Owing to its
mounting popularity among Arab citizens of Israel, a parking lot
was constructed in a few years back. Over the course of the
study, we have met both pilgrims from nearby villages and those
who drove over two hours to reach the shrine. The short climb
from the lot to the compound passes through Kaukab’s active
graveyard, thus offering an experience of a funeral. Upon
reaching the site, a small iron gate leads to the inner
courtyard. While some believers tarry in the first hall, others
head directly to the sepulchres. Despite the lack of clerical
supervision, our findings point to a moderately recurrent
visitation pattern. The average pilgrim tends to pray (mostly in
silence) opposite the warrior’s tomb, before lowering him or
herself to kiss the green ornamental cover. After reciting their
prayers, some visitors sit by the tomb (womb) for varying lengths
of time, or until they feel they have recovered. The lone
‘official’ regulatory activity that we noticed was the opening
and closing of the venue by a custodian from the village. In27
contrast to Mary’s tomb, there is no authority that seeks to
impose its narrative or rite on the faithful.
While most of the visitors to the shrine are women, the
reasons behind their pilgrimages are many and manifold. For both
Hadijja, a recent divorcee from Kaukab, and Ibtisam, who
travelled 150 kilometres from Ramla, the trip was spurred on by
financial anxieties. Israeli-Palestinians are a marginalized and
dispersed minority which time and again pay the price of a biased
and a premeditated state policy of favouring the Jewish majority
group (Lustick 1980; Rouhana 1998). These women are therefore to
be found in two or three spheres of marginalization and
denigration: a; their very belonging to the Palestinian minority
in Israel which is constantly being marginalized and peripherized
by the state; b. Being women in a very masculine and traditional
society and, c. their precarious marital status in a highly
patriarchal society. Naifa, an elderly woman from Kufr Manda (a
nearby village), recently underwent major heart surgery. Escorted
by her family, she beseeches Abu al-Hijja for a recovery. Her
experienced upon leaving the sunshine for the relatively dark
compound and then coming back outside through an undersized door28
was explained as a rebirth, recuperation from her illness that is
both metaphoric and real.
At both sites, devotees explain that entering the dark room
and the presence of a saint tomb reflects the power of holy
intermediaries to restore their health, improve their wellbeing,
or deliver them from the trials and tribulations of bareness.
Rituals at Mary’s Tomb centre around the desire for motherhood
and fertility, while the focus at the maqam is on healing. In
other words, for devotees, the two shrines reconnect death and
rebirth, tomb and life, as both the Virgin and warrior embarked
on a transition to a new realm that would eventually improve
their existence.
Body-Based Shrines: Politics and Claims to the Land
Forthwith, we return to our initial question of how and why are
womb-tomb shrines venerated today. As already shown, the unique
ancient layouts and symbols of these venues are designed to
confer a strong bodily experience that mimics the foetus’
departure from the womb, or a sapling emerging from the ground.
Taking our explanation one step further, we show that our29
interviewees add to the set of body rituals, fertility and
wellbeing preformed in an ancient setting, a voice of a plethora
of contemporary and local political issues, predicaments and
tensions over lands that are associated with these shrines (see
Friedland and Hecht 1991).
Against the backdrop of the said revival of Jewish holy
places scattered through the landscape, our findings indicate
that Christian and Muslim minorities utilize the architecture and
rituals at the shrines of Mary’s Tomb and Maqam Abu al-Hijja as
political springboards for reasserting local Palestinian claims
to the land (Ben-Ze'ev and Abouraiya 2004). The State of Israel
has placed an emphasis on cultivating Jewish shrines (Bilu 2010;
also Sered 1986; Reiter 2010). In response, as shown from our
findings, the Arab populace is clinging and encouraging
pilgrimage to their own shrines. At the Galilean maqam and
Jerusalem crypt, members of a discriminated sector and/or
religion undertake to mitigate, deny or counter the position of
other groups, not least the hegemonic one (Scott 1985). Within
the context of the rising popularity of these sites in
Israel/Palestine, shrines that are attended by minorities30
exemplify how pilgrims leverage a corporeal experience that is
triggered by womb tomb (prehistoric) architectural models to
reinforce their own claims to the land19.
Rabinowitz (2001) has referred to Israeli Palestinians as a
‘trapped minority’, for their identity is at odds with the
hegemonic Jewish character of Israel, an increasingly ethnocratic
state20. For the sake of resisting majority control and demanding
equal rights, Israeli Palestinians are currently turning also to
religious venues as loci for defining and consolidating their
identity (Luz 2004, 2005, 2008; Hervieu-Léger 2000). Sacred
shrines, with prehistoric architecture are an authentic way to
voice these claims.
One of our interviewees, Sophia, is a Christian-Palestinian
teacher from the West Bank city of Ramallah. At each of our
frequent meetings, she described the personal Via Dolorosa that
she had endured: “After being diagnosed with cancer, I ‘turned to
19 Saltman (2002) describes a similar phenomenon in the Caribbean
Islands.
20 This definition is the gist of Yiftachel’s comprehensive
analysis of Israel’s democratic regime; idem 2006.31
Mary’ and was delivered from her plight. Consequently, I returns
to the Old City every year for the Dormition Feast in order to
fulfil her vows to the Theotokos”. Every August 25, well before
the crack of dawn, Sophia wakes up her two toddlers and carries
them through Israeli roadblocks and probing examinations so her
family can partake in each stage of the celebration. Like many
other pilgrims from towns and villages across the West Bank and
Israel, Sophia stresses the importance of preserving the
traditions at the Virgin’s crypt, even in the face of onerous
political and security constraints. When we interviewed her
before coming to the tomb she said:
“Visiting the shrine in important dates is a way to
reinforce my belonging to this place, that is part of my heritage
that I would like to transmit to my children, the land that they
belong to...”
During the 2009 Dormition Feast, we met Maria and George – a
newly-wed Arab-Orthodox couple. Maria intimated that this rite
offers the most effective and feasible means for rebuilding her
“seriously fragmented and besieged” Christian identity and body.
While leaving the crypt, George added that given Jerusalem’s 32
supreme importance to local Christians as both Arabs and members
of a minority group, it is incumbent upon them to do everything
possible to express their belonging to the Holy Land. The Arab-
Israeli struggle “is a problem of power and ownership” he said.
“We, in our faith, prefer to show our respect to the land through
veneration of Mary, at her tomb, and not to seize the land with
blood and wars.”
As per the narrative of our interviewees, both the Tomb of
Mary and Maqam Abu al-Hijja are part of the Palestinians’ long
history in this land. By visiting these sites, performing various
body rituals, they trigger related memories and underscore their
rights to the place. This is accomplished not only in spirit or
with words, but by physically asserting themselves at these
shrines. A self-proclaimed ‘secular’ political activist from
Kaukab who launched a renovation project at the town’s maqam a
few years ago, expounded on this point in an interview that we
conducted on December 28, 2005:
I would like to renovate all historical sites. True, I’m
not a religious person, but I think that some places need
to be preserved by the people they belong to because they33
are part of their history. If you do not have a history,
you have nothing. It is especially because I am
unobservant that I renovated Maqam Abu al-Hijja, his
tomb, as I wanted to prevent my history in the region
from being erased.
On the other hand, he explains that part of his motivation stems
from the fact that the identity of the saint is an old Islamic
tradition, which ‘goes back well before the advent of the
secularizing Jewish state’.
Jamil, a young man from the same village, holds similar
sentiments. In June 2005, he was entertaining friends on his
front porch when we passed by his home. Jamil invited us to join
them and told us that his father had recovered from a serious
walking impediment after spending a night by the tombs. The
interviewee insisted that he too does not consider himself a
practicing Muslim, but nevertheless visits the shrine on a
regular basis:
I do not go there because I believe in the sanctity of Abu
al-Hijja, nor do I actually pray there. For me, this is my
place; it is important to me that the site looks nice,34
especially because of the new Jewish places that have
recently been developed in the area. I’m not ashamed of
what I have – far from it. Abu al-Hijja is a part of my
history, even though I’m not religious.
From Jamil’s perspective, then, the shrine is a part of his
cultural heritage and thus a way to voice a claim of lands.
Apart from the narrative of indigenousness and land, the
maqam is invariably linked to disagreements over symbolic
meaning and struggles for control. As a ‘web of signification’
(Olds and Ley 1988), the compound is indeed an object of debate
between the powers that be and the opposition over its ‘true’
nature and ‘legitimate’ heirs.
As we argued, womb tombs shrines serve as anatomical-cum-
spatial metaphors with which individuals and groups represent
themselves and express their particular identity, place and land.
Put differently, body-based architectural allow cultural ideas
and abstractions to assume a more concrete form. Our case studies
and the figures they commemorate have been reconceived and
rebranded as components of the Christian/Muslim minority’s
national/religious legacy. By visiting and practicing bodily35
rituals in these shrines, devotees have the opportunity to create
a sense of place with their own politicized body. Moreover, these
same customs have become a vehicle for protesting the status quo
and taking issue with the government’s policies toward the Arab
population. The dual functions of preserving ancient traditions
and enlisting them for contemporary political causes enable
visitors at Maqam Abu al-Hijja and Mary’s Tomb to sustain a
complex, protean form of identity and resist the cultural sway of
Israel/Palestine’s Jewish majority.
Conclusion
While most pilgrimage scholars focus on either communitas or the
contested nature of sacred places, this paper is dedicated to the
relation between womb tomb veneration and territorial claims. The
present article has explored various facets of the religious
experience at two Israeli-Palestinian womb-tomb shrines where the
ancient knowledge/architecture that is engraved into the very
structure of these sites is being physically preserved, refreshed
and swept back into the spotlight. Likewise, pilgrims are
observing, modifying and recreating an assortment of venerable36
practices that are connected to these places (Bell 1992, 1997;
Humphrey and Laidlaw 1994). In so doing, they are harking back to
the genesis of religiosity and primordial inklings of devotion
and belonging. More specifically, Christian and Muslim minorities
are evoking and transforming elements of what they consider to be
their own ancient history and native identities. While the body-
mimicking structure of womb tombs its social meanings never cease
to be re-contextualized. Israeli Arabs use these sites to
reaffirm their sense of belonging and collective identity.
Although fertility and wellbeing rituals are obviously driven by
personal needs, in the context of Mary’s Tomb and Maqam Abu al-
Hijja they also constitute forms of resistance against the
hegemonic order, the state, as they express new forms of
indigenousness and land claiming.
The focus of this study has been on the particular
identities and counter-hegemony politics that are manifested in
the architectural layouts of womb-tomb shrines as well as the
bodily acts performed at these same venues. In this respect, a
pilgrim’s is inevitably political, for even the most intimate
rituals are politicized (see Kugle 2007). A case in point is the37
aforementioned custom of crawling away from a burial site, as
this ritualistic simulation can be interpreted as the foetus
leaving the womb, a ritual that symbolizes the revival of the
Palestinian identities and other minorities. Rituals at these
sort of places allows devotees to vividly express their
nativeness by comparing themselves to a deep-rooted, indigenous
plant that has sprung forth from the local soil. Thus, merely
entering these sites is akin to restoring a primal state, for it
is a metaphor for re-uniting a people with its land. As we have
seen, all notions of belonging and rejuvenation in the Israeli-
Palestinian context are inexorably linked to competing
territorial claims. Within this framework, the various camps
secure the ‘homeland’ with their own bodies. In a similar vein,
religious revivals tend to involve the restoration of ancient
sites in the face of opposition from multiple factors and trends:
adversarial faiths and nationalities; the state; other streams
within the same movement; and the group’s own theological
doctrines and official institutions. Accordingly, Muslim and
Christian Arabs in Israel are contending, first and foremost,
with the Jewishness of the majority’s venerated spaces and the38
Judaization of the landscape. Amid these struggles, womb tombs
play a key role in denoting symbolically and actively, who owns
the land. Thus, the tombs restorations are part of a general
political project of restoring traces of Palestinian identity on
the landscape.
Furthermore, womb tombs are a unique option to raise claims
for land that are not through the official legal or political
systems. The idea of staking one’s claim to a land by reframing
customs and symbols turns up, inter alia, in the classic literature
on indigenous people. Myerhoff (1974:15) interprets the Huichol’s
yearly return to Wirikuta, in Mexico’s Sierra Madre Mountains, as
a prototypical ritual – a journey back to Paradise when the world
was created and all was one. Another riveting example is the
Mohawk creation legends, which reinforce the tribe’s Native
American identity and its claims to vast tracts of the
continent’s land (LaDuke 1999:11). For Mintz (1996ab), the
Creolization of the Caribbean Islands on the part of slaves and
their descendants constitutes a form of resistance against the
plantation owners of yesteryear and present-day factors that are
perceived as exploiting the ‘indigenous’ population (also see39
Saltman 2002:181). In light of the above, scholars are best
advised to refract the insights from these studies on other
minority claims, not least the freighted case of
Israel/Palestine. Age-old womb-tomb structures along with the
attendant body-based rituals are enlisted by Muslim and Christian
groups in the hopes of stemming the tide of the land’s
Judaization and bolstering their own native identity. As such,
womb tombs illuminate the nexus between religious revival and
hegemon-minority struggles.
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