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Markets and Production Management

THE CHEMICAL RECYCLEOF COTTON

A RECICLAGEM QUÍMICA DE ALGODÃOSchuch, Alice Beyer

Alice Beyer Schuch [email protected] Berlin International University of Art forFashion, Alemania

Revista Produção e DesenvolvimentoCentro Federal de Educação Tecnológica Celso Suckow da Fonseca,BrasilISSN-e: 2446-9580Periodicity: Frecuencia continuavol. 2, no. 2, [email protected]

Received: 22 June 2016Accepted: 20 August 2016

URL: http://portal.amelica.org/ameli/jatsRepo/167/1671523006/index.html

DOI: https://doi.org/10.32358/rpd.2016.v2.155

Abstract: e chemical recycle of cotton textiles and/or othercellulosic materials for the purpose of manufacturing regeneratedhigh quality textiles fibres is a novel process. e objective ofrelated research is based on the forecast of population growth, onresource scarcity predictions, and on the negative environmentalimpact of the textile industry. ese facts lead the need ofbroadening the scope for long-term textile-to-textile recycle - asthe mechanical recycle of natural fibres serve for limited numberof cycles, still depends on input of virgin material, and offer areduced-in-quality output. Critical analysis of scientific papers,relevant related reports, and personal interviews were the base ofthis study, which shows viable results in laboratorial scale of usinglow-quality cellulosic materials as input for the development ofhigh-quality regenerated textile fibres though ecological chemicalprocess. Nevertheless, to scale up and implement this innovativerecycle method, other peripheral structures are requested, suchas recover schemes or appropriate sort, for instance. Furtherresearches should also be considered in regards to colours andimpurities.

Keywords: chemical recycle of cellulose, regenerated fibres, high-quality textiles.

Resumo: A reciclagem química de tecidos de algodão e/ououtros materiais de celulose para a manufatura de fibras têxteisregeneradas de alta qualidade é um processo desenvolvidorecentemente. O objetivo de pesquisar-se sobre o tema estábaseado na previsão de crescimento populacional, na estimativade escassez de recursos e nos impactos ambientais negativosrelacionados aos processos da indústria têxtil. Esses fatores levamà necessidade de ampliação do escopo de reciclagem de têxtil-para-têxtil a longo prazo ? visto que a reciclagem mecânica temciclos limitados, depende de acréscimo constante de matéria-prima virgem e ainda resulta em material de qualidade inferior.Analises críticas de publicações cientificas, leitura de relatóriosrelevantes, e entrevistas pessoais serviram como base informativaa esse texto, que apresenta resultados viáveis desenvolvidosem laboratório do uso de materiais de celulose de baixaqualidade como matéria-prima inicial para o desenvolvimentode fibras têxteis regeneradas de alta qualidade, através deprocesso químico ambientalmente favorável. Não obstante, para aampliação e implementação desse método de reciclagem inovador,outras estruturas periféricas são necessárias, como por exemplo,recolhimento e separação apropriada de têxteis. Pesquisas futurasainda devem ser consideradas com relação a cores e outrasimpurezas.

http://portal.amelica.org/ameli/jatsRepo/167/1671523006/index.html

http://portal.amelica.org/ameli/jatsRepo/167/1671523006/index.html

https://doi.org/10.32358/rpd.2016.v2.155

Revista Produção e Desenvolvimento, 2016, 2(2), Mayo-Agosto, ISSN: 2446-9580


Palavras-chave: reciclagem química de celulose, fibrasregeneradas, têxteis de alta qualidade.

1. INTRODUCTION

Textiles have had great importance to humankind throughout history, andremain so to these days. Unfortunately, the current fashion industry situationand its negative environmental and social impacts are no long justifiable. It is timeto establish a pathway towards the elimination of poisons, toxins and discards,and create a sequence of actions to energize the fashion industry, stimulateinnovation, foster social development, and restore environmental health.

is article focuses on environmental material development, in responseto the negative impact of the current textile industry production practices.Considering the forecast of growth of population, rapidly decreasing resources( Ellen McArthur, 2013, pg.15) and the possibility of extending the life-cyclesof natural fibres, such as cotton - thus reducing landfill, water consumption, andthe direct dependence on arable land - an innovative recycle process is presented.It allows the continuous chemical recycling of cellulosic-based textiles withoutdowncycle. is way, the concept of waste could be eliminated - redirecting preor post-consumer clothes in a responsible business structure, closing graduallythe loop towards circular economy concepts.

Polyester fibres represent the highest annual production volume in thetextileindustry. Cotton - a natural cellulosic fibre - follows it with 26,000,000tons produced per year, which uses 2.4% of the world?s arable land. e negativeenvironmental impact of conventional cotton production can be connected withthe widespread use of agrochemicals. Fertilisers, insecticides, herbicides, growthregulators and defoliants have become an integral part of cotton productionpractices, consuming 11% of the world?s agrochemicals. e use of pesticidesis considered to be the most serious problem. Large quantities of the mosttoxic pesticides are used in the production of cotton, accounting for about 24%of the global consumption. e production of any crop in these conditions,including textile crops, results in some environmental degradation that canimpact negatively on people?s quality of live and diminish biodiversity throughsoil erosion. Water consumption is other subject of serious concern. In generalterms, for growing and processing one kilogram of cotton, it is suggested thatalmost 10,000 litres of water are required, and additional quantities for dyeingvary drastically between 30 and 200 litres of water per kilogram ( SEI, 2005).

Furthermore, population forecasts are predicting a global increase to ninebillion people by 2050. By 2030 alone the additional three billion middle classconsumers would require a further 175 to 220 million hectares of cropland tomeet food and fuel demands, and not only that. Water usage would increase inmore than 40% until the same date ( McKinsey, 2011, pg.47-51). Consequently,by 2030, demand for agricultural products as its price is expected to rise 40to 50% above 2010 levels ( Ellen McArthur, 2013, pg.15). And an additionaldemand of 15 million tons of cellulosic fibres by 2030 is forecasted ( Lauri, 2014).Besides that, the amount of waste globally is also expected to increase not onlyas a function of population growth but also as incomes rise in emerging markets

Alice Beyer Schuch. THE CHEMICAL RECYCLEOF COTTON


and the world?s new consumers adopt the trend towards ?disposable clothing?or ?fast fashion? ( Ellen McArthur, 2013, pg.53).

Resource constraints present significant challenges to businesses in theclothing sector, but also present opportunities for businesses to extend the lifeof clothes and develop business models based around product re-use ( WRAP,2013, pg.11). In this context, the merits of a recycling approach to textileproduction become apparent. e possibility of chemically recycling naturalfibres is a complemental alternative towards betterments on the whole fashionindustry, which does not exclude another options such as mechanical recycle orsynthetic chemical recycle. A comprehensive applicability of it also depends onexternal structures and still requires further research despite more complex issuessuch as dying or impurities.

2. MATERIALS AND METHODS

is text is part of the sustainable textile research in chemical recycle of cottonrealized for the Master esis in Sustainability in Fashion ?Further - textilerebirth catalyst?, a more comprehensive study which also draws upon designstrategies, business models and consumer behaviour. For this research, criticalanalysis of papers and relevant reports, and personal interviews with the narrownumber of developers on this theme were the main source of information.

3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS

3.1. Regenerated fibres as future textile alternative

Regenerated, or man-made artificial fibres, are those in which a natural andrenewable resource, such as cellulose, is manipulated ? dissolved or chemicallymodified into a thermoplastic that can be melted - in order to allow filamentproduction thought spinneret process. Some of known regenerated fibres areviscose and lyocell, made of cellulose from wood pulp.



Figure 1Sample of the Ionic Liquid 1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-enium acetate [DBNH]OAc

at room temperature.--5-enium acetate [DBNH]OAc at room temperature.Ioncell-F

In 2013 the annual production of textile industry reached 92.3 million tons(an average consumption of 12.7 kilograms per capita). From that, 32 milliontons are natural fibres, with stagnated production since 2004 with variation inmore or less 1.5 million, in which cotton represents around 80%. e other60.3 million tons are man-made fibres, synthetic and artificial, in which viscoserepresents 3.8 million tons and its ecological alternative NMMO-based solventlyocell, known Tencel® from Lenzing AG, representing only 150,000 tons of it -with production capacity of 220,000 tons per year ( Sixta et al., 2015) ( Outi LesPyy, 2014) ( Lenzing, 2013).

New developments which offer a sustainable alternative for man-madecellulosic fibres productions are underway, considering estimation growth ofman-made cellulosic fibres in average of 9.1% per year until 2020 ( Hummel,2015), and ignited by the rediscovery of ionic liquids ( Figure 1) as powerfulcellulose solvents in 2002. In 1934, Graenacher registered the first use of organicsalt to direct dissolution of cellulose. Although it has not reached the commercialmarket yet, ionic liquids claim to enable the production of many regeneratedcellulose materials, including textiles and films ( Olsson, 2014).

??initial results demonstrate that cellulose can be dissolved without activation orpre-treatment in, and regenerated from, 1-butyl-3-methylimidazolium chloride andother hydrophilic ionic liquids. is may enable the application of ionic liquids as



alternatives to environmentally undesirable solvents currently used for dissolutionof this important bioresource.? ( Swatloski et al., 2002)

Ionic Liquids (ILs) are organic salts in liquid state with low melting point,usually less than 100°C. ey contain an organic caution/anion, have a verylow vapour pressure even up to 300°C, presents chemical and thermal stability,and are non-flammable (one difference from NMMO solvent from Tencel®).ILs are less aggressive to the environment, and are considered to be a greenalternative to substitute organic solvents ( Camacho, 2015). e extension ofthe Lyocell spinning technology to direct cellulose solvents of high thermal andchemical stability comprising lower solution viscosity is very attractive from asafety, environmental and economic point of view ( Sixta et al., 2015).

In 2013, a group of Finnish scientists developed a new cellulose regenerationprocess in response to market growth and higher demand for sustainable textileproduction practices.

e project, led by Professor Ilkka Kilpeläinen and co-supervised by Dr A.W. T. King from Helsinki University has been conducted in collaborationwith Professor Herbert Sixta?s group at Aalto University, Department of ForestProducts Technology. Kilpeläinen, King, and other researchers at the Universityof Helsinki have been responsible for the technological development of therecyclable ionic liquid, whereas, Aalto has concentrated on the spinning of thefibre and the textile production.

e ecological lyocell technology is completely covered by Lenzing AG andthe company?s policy prevents its license by other companies. However, inChina (Shanghai Shuanglu Chemical Fiber Co.) and South Korea (e.g. Hanil,Hyosung) own NMMO-based lyocell fibre processes has been developed, withno commercial relevance yet ( Outi Les Pyy, 2014).

Ioncell-F is a novel cellulose spinning process which uses non-toxic IL solvent.e complete dissolution of the pulp accomplished in less than 60 minutesand at much lower temperatures (70°C compared to 110°C-120°C for lyocell),what revels energy optimization. e process has shown great spinnability andmechanical characteristics, resulting in outstanding fibre properties from birchpulp. e new strength characteristics of the fibre has higher index than otherregenerated fibres from the market. Initially, different tests were done, from1dtex (g/10km) to higher ? in a spinneret with 36 holes by 100 micrometrediameter each. e process was then optimized and a filament ( Figure 2) wasmade of a constant dtex (1.2 or 1.5dtex). e titre of 1.2dtex is comparableto those already commercialised, and the fibre could be knitted or woven asother regenerated cellulose fibres. Elongation tests shown that the fibres aremore resistant to deformation, which represents an advantage over Tencel® forexample, avoiding the appearance of ?knees? or ?hanging-shoulders? on thefabric.



Figure 2Bobbin of Ioncell-F filament at the end of spinning process.

Schuch, AB (2015) from Aalto visit

No aer treatment or finishing were applied during this initial laboratorialphase, though the post-spinning processes would follow the commercial ones(lyocell) considering dyeing, finishing, soeners, or brushes and could give evena higher quality to the produced fibres. Yarns and fabrics embrace a huge rangeof possibilities related to its construction: from filament to staple fibres, fromlight and transparent chiffons to heavy twill fabrics, from knitted to woven.Although different filament sections and shapes are not yet tested, it could alsobe considered as alternative for any different desired property.

3.2. Ionic Liquids for the chemical recycle of cellulosic materials into regeneratedtextile fibres

e chemical recycling of synthetic materials is not a new theme in the textileindustry, but the field of natural-fibre chemical recycling is still in development.Back in 2011 ( Fletcher & Grose 2011:70), the chemical recycle was mentionedto be suitable only for synthetics. Five years later, it is shown to be possible andmay present a great alternative in the extension of lifecycle of these fibres in thefuture. Company Patagonia recycles PET plastic bottles into PES fleece since1993, and since 2005, closed the loop in garment-to-garment PES recycle inpartnership with Teijin Group ( Patagonia, 2009).

An ongoing study ( Asaadi et al., 2014) analysed in 2015 ( Ioncell-F, 2015a)may give deeper information about the chemical recyclability of cotton textiles.It is based on the previously described Ioncell-F process, with the use of the non-toxic ionic liquid DBNHOAc without co-solvents or stabilizers, in dry-jet wetspinning process, in cold-water coagulation bath. e research was developedusing 100% cotton textiles from used hospital bed sheets with different wood-pulps as input, what facilitates the analyses, without deviating the attentionfor other issues related to colours for example. e polymer concentration isalso important, increasing the dope concentration results in fibre with highertenacities. For Ioncell-F, the optimized polymer concentration is 13wt%.



For the success of the process, it is necessary to verify previously the viscosity ofthe cellulose before dissolution, despite the selected raw material. e adjustmentof the DP (Degree of Polymerization - the length of the cellulose polymer chain)is the only pre-treatment that is needed. Natural wood has DP around 10000,wood pulp can vary between 300 and 1700, natural cotton has around 800, andregenerated fibres from cellulose usually have DP from 200 to 500 ( Olsson,2014). So for the spinning process, if the viscosity is too low, other material withhigher viscosity should be added to guaranty the spinnability. In case of highviscosity, chemical processes could be applied in order to lower the viscosity level.Acid cooking could be an option, but a more environmental alternative could bean enzymatic hydrolyses.

In this way, any other cellulose based textile ? like less-thirty crops such aslinen or hemp - or compounds ? like wood buttons - could theoretically also beused as input. Even further, another research considered the use of paper in theproduction of new textiles fibres allowing the use of hand tags or packages in thesame regenerated process ( Ma, 2016).

For the use of paper, impurities as inks and glues should be rejected. For therelated de-ink process, the company VTT informed to wash the pulp in waterthat contains certain amount of environmentally friendly/non-toxic dispersant(non-disclosure) ( Ioncell-F, 2015a).

is study shows the possibility of using lignin ? a by-product of thepaper industry - in the spinning dope up to 50wt%. e input could bewaste cardboards, giving a natural range of brownish colour ( Figure 3).But observations must be considered when using lignin, because in highconcentrations generate a weaker filament, although it can be still appropriate tocertain textile requirements and performance.

Figure 3Different shades of produced yarnwith or without lignin containing spun Ioncell-fibres.

Ioncell-F

Important to mention, there are differences between cellulose I from naturalsources and cellulose II from regenerated processes. e structure of the moleculeand its hydrogen connections suffer a change when processed. ose regeneratedcellulose are at the lowest level of DP necessary for spinning (from 350 to 550 forIoncell-F and around 250 for NMMO). So, would be unlikely the use of 100%recycled cotton (in this terms) as unique raw material for the re-regeneratingprocess. is means that an additional source with higher chain connectionswould be needed to equalize the ideal range of viscosity for spinnability. In



this sense, wood pulp, used paper or other textile pulp with higher DP maybe added at basically every re-process. Natural cotton, as mentioned, has DParound 800, which is too high for IL process thus it should be pre-treated beforethe dissolution. Nevertheless, cotton textiles suffer with the use and the home-washing processes (most of them are alkali detergents, reducing the DP ? lengthof cellulose polymer chain).

A sample from a sheet that had been laundered more than 50 times can reachthe DP range of what is preferred by viscose producers ( Palme at al., 2014).With these parameters, it is possible to spin a regenerated fibre from pre- andpost-consumer waste, mixing regenerated and natural fibre, or from 100% cottontextile ( Graphic 1). And in the laboratorial results, 100% reused cellulose fibresfrom Ioncell-F have shown higher tenacity and lower elongation index thancommercial regenerated cellulose fibres. e research shown that 100% wastecotton is spinnable when final viscosity is adjusted. Although, a better tenacityand high orientation is shown when blended with wood pulp because allowshigher draw-ratios, resulting in a thinner but stronger filament ( Graphic 2 andGraphic 3).

Graphic 1Example of different DP from different cellulose sources and the

comparison with the proper range for regeneration process (Ioncell-F).Author?s elaboration



Graphic 2Elongation comparison between commercial regenerated fibres and Ioncell-F tested with different inputs.

Author?s elaboration from Ioncell-F and Lyocell LF informational reports

Graphic 3Tenacity comparison between commercial regenerated fibres and Ioncell-F tested with different inputs.

Author?s elaboration from Ioncell-F and Lyocell LF informational reports

3.3 Challenges on the chemical recycle of cotton implementation

When talking about textile end-of-life, basically the options are to discard, tosell, or to donate to charity organizations, municipalities, retail collectors orprofessional collectors ( Zamani, 2014). It is important to mention, the exportof textiles, which represents 84% of all collected textiles in Europa, should bereconsidered ( Smits, 2015). Currently, most of the textiles which retain highenough quality for reuse are sent to East European or African countries ( Palmeet al., 2014). In 2008, only in Sweden, 26000 tonnes of collected used clothesand shoes were donated to Africa and Eastern Europe ( Zamani, 2014). eadvantages of increasing the waste stream designated to recycle - despite thehuge business margin for improvements ? is related to its low human toxicity,terrestrial ecotoxicity, reduce of need on raw material and water consumptionamong others. Anyways, the chemical recycle, as mechanical recycle, representschallenges on its structure.



3.3.1 Recovering and sort the proper input

Recovering and sort the required textiles would be first steps to be faced.As example: at one German SOEX plant ? an international textile collectingcompany ? 400 tons of textiles are received every day ( X:enius, 2015). esetextiles are mainly separated by hand, initially in three categories: jeans withoutstretch, other wearable garments (up to 50%), and non-wearable garments. Jeansare designated for fibre recycle; wearable garments proceed to second-hand sales,and non-wearables are shredded. Even if upcycling is possible right now formono-material garments for example, sort companies are not able to recognizeor to know it due to communication/identification problems. Few supportingtechnologies are available as QR or RFID codes, but they are considered stillunaffordable and time consuming due to manual scan ( Zwart, 2015).

Nevertheless, an invention from 2014 might be a big step towardbetterment. Valvan Company developed ?Fibersort?, a machine that recognizethe composition of textiles through infra-red scan in a speed of 1 piece per secondwith accuracy of 98% ( Smits, 2015). It is a first step toward an automatizedsolution, and even if there is no limit to the types of fibre that can be recognized,there are still few technical issues to be improved ( Zwart, 2015). e system scans1cm² of each garment, so it cannot identify different composition in differentparts of a same piece; it works with light reflection thus it is hard to identify blackclothes; the thickness of the garment interferes in the identification, because itcan get too close to the light point. Conversely, only ten different compositionscomprise 80% of the sort, from those 70% are pure (with 45% to 55% consistingin cotton) and the other 30% are blends (being PES/CO the majority) ( Smits,2015). is way sort is relevant, as the scalable chemical recycling technologieswill require appropriate feedstock in the medium term, once market demandincreases.

Considerations must be taken as well in the environmental and social issuesrelated to the raw material. Even with advanced scanning technology, the toxicitylevels, for instance, are not detectable. In the optimal situations, non-toxicrecovered materials should not be contaminated with other conventional nonsustainable textiles. And as the market walks toward a shi, from conventional,to certified, and finally to beneficial Cradle to Cradle®, so the recovery and sortshould also develop.

Finally, another issue to be analysed is the hardware as fasteners and buttons,because it requires manual work in disassemble and it is considered a bottleneckin the recycle way. New and disruptive innovations in design strategies may beneeded in order to facilitate the future recycle.

3.3.2 Colours and other impurities

Colours represent a big issue to the continuity of the chemical recycle, whatis very different from reuse. When thinking about reuse, many possibilities areavailable. For the decolouring, for instance, could be mentioned prior bleaching,[1] but it is actually breaking down the colour molecule, which cannot refract thelight anymore, giving so the impression of ?no colour?. But the molecules, even ifnot visible, are still there. e same happens with prints and other components



as synthetic blends. It does not interfere the mechanical recycle, and in a smalllevel, it may not interfere in the first spinning process of chemical recycle aswell, but it would create certain impurity to the fibre or to the solvent. eseimpurities would be cumulative and could make the continuous recycle processimpossible. Coloured filaments or a coloured coagulation bath may occur in thecase of coloured material is dissolved and spun again. In any case, this colourwould still interfere in future processes ? in case of re-regenerating these fibresor recovering the coagulation bath. More research is still necessary in this field,and efforts must be placed on the beginning of the processes to avoid futureundesirable discoveries ( Ioncell-F, 2015a).

In the polyester industry, for instance, it is already possible to dye and nowremove dyes from fabric with CO2, and these dyes could be also recycled (FeyeCon, s.d.). ere is also a plasma technology developed to remove all addedfinishing and coatings from a textile such as water repellents ( Ecotextile, 2014).In a foreseen future, these technologies may be also suitable to cellulose-basedtextiles.

3.3.3 Market parameters

For Alan Wheeler, director at Textile Recycling Association in UK,

?the lack of markets and the low value of recycling grades are significant barriers,presenting a ?chicken and egg? situation. How does one create or stimulate newmarkets for fibre recycling when there is a lack of collections designed for recycleand which can supply the correct fibre with suitably low contamination levels? Andon the other side, how to persuade a collector to target recycling grades without themarket? In this situation, to sort at an affordable price is a key issue as are blends.New technologies may go some way to overcoming these problems, but a shirt thatpurports to be 100% of one fibre (e.g. polyester) may still have plastic buttons,metal zips, cotton thread, all of these are contaminants that need to be removedby recycling can take place. Consideration on Design for Recycling and Design forDisassembly protocols may help.? ( Wheeler, 2015)

Fact is that the textile industry should unify efforts towards better results. eCircular Textile Program from Circle Economy, launched in September 2014,is one example. e French organisation Eco TLC invests in a number of R&Dprojects to develop new markets for recycling. WRAP undertakes extensive workto help improve overall sustainability of the UK clothing supply chain. etrash-2-cash project, launched in June 2015, unifies almost 20 institutions andcompanies all over Europe to increase recycle through design-driven innovation.Trash-2-cash is a program supported by Horizon 2020, the biggest EU Researchand Innovation programme ever with nearly ?80 billion of funding available over7 years - 2014 to 2020 ( T2C, 2015). In Germany, a new steering committeefor the German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles met together for the firsttime August 2015, including representatives from the textile industry andfashion retailers. e Textile Partnership, created by International DevelopmentMinister Gerd Müller, aims to develop and set collective standards for globalsustainable production in the textile sector ( Made-By, 2015). Unquestionably,without coalition, implementing new processes would be barely possible.



Regarding to the technology, chemical recycling of cotton textiles is shownto be possible when considering the proper sort, the appropriate colour inputand the purity composition. But the volatile price and its continuing declineon the global viscose fibre market since 2013, could be still an obstacle to itsintroduction. For Lenzing, for example, the generally lower fibre selling pricesin 2013 also led to moderate price adjustments for TenCel®. Whereas averagefibre selling prices in the first quarter of 2013 equalled ?1.77 per kilogram (incomparison to first quarter of 2012: ?2.03), they continually decreased to a levelof ?1.61 per kilogram in the fourth quarter of the year (in comparison to fourthquarter of 2012: ?1.83) ( Lenzing, 2013). Additionally, as the commercializationof ILs is quite recent, their costs are still higher than the commercial solventsalready available. It could be balanced through the growth of the demand(as happened in the process of commercialization of NMMO), and the fullyrecovery of the solvent. Although the recovery by distillation is possible, furtherresearches are considering its energy optimization.

3.3.4 Blends

Moreover, the chemical recycle of cellulose textiles is still upscaling, and althoughit represents a very important step forward, it is by no means a perfect solution.e regeneration of cellulose materials is just a part of the larger evolution inthe recycling structure. As many of the textiles produced are presented in blends,commonly polyester and cotton, it is important to think about new technologiesthat could allow the use of blends accordingly.

Worn Again, in partnership with Kering and H&M, has announced in April2015 the plan of working on chemical recycle of blended materials, mentioningthat ?there are currently no available textile-to-textile recycling processes forpolyester/cotton blends, so many of these resources are currently perceived asa downcycling stream, with little or no economic value?. In the process, therecaptured polyester will then be turned into polyester pellets of the same quality,functionality and price as those made from virgin oil by-products. Also, re-capture cellulose from cotton and mixed fibre garments will be introduced asfeedstock into existing cellulosic fibre production and/or by the creation of a newcellulosic fibre, leaving behind dyes and other contaminants.

4. CONCLUSION

e humanity is using more natural resources than can be sustained from Earth inthe long term. Already back in 2001, the global textile consumption overlappedthe planet?s maximal point of supply ( SEI, 2005, pg.30). Besides that, theforecast of the decrease of resources, the growth of the population, the increasein demand for textiles, water and arable land makes the case for an urgent shiin the way fashion is produced and consumed. Fortunately, the world started tomove toward betterment, and initiatives supporting social and environmentalstandards have been more disseminated.

is article presents an innovative environmental alternative related to theextension of lifecycle of cellulosic textiles through the medium of chemical



recycling. Its core values are: the reduction of landfill, water consumption, andthe direct dependence on arable land. Further, this regenerated fibre could fulfilthe previewed gab in cotton supply, using low quality material as input andoffering high quality fibres as output. As with all new technology or process, itfaces challenges and obstacles. e market price in general, and the high price ofthe solvent used due to low demand are still barriers.

Recycling companies and systems should support such practice. Currently,the export of used garments from Europe ? primarily for the second handand downcycled markets ? complicates the possibilities for recycling. Strongerinvestments in the textile-to-textile recycle are required in order to change it.ese investments include; the materials available, the design strategy adoptedand all haberdasheries, the proper structure to sort and recycle those garments/textiles as to find solution for current issues such as dyes, prints and otherfinishing. It also includes the increase of customers? awareness, and bettergovernmental policies.

In an optimal scenario, the recycle of old cellulosic textiles, not only cotton,would be applicable, and the life cycle of this natural polymer would beabundantly extended. Ideally, the input would be proper selected as GOTScertified garments and further, with Cradle to Cradle® certified textiles. isdefinition would not only attack issues on recycling and landfilling, but wouldalso provide the potential opportunity to companies of material ownership in thebiological sphere, valuing prior investments on the elimination of all hazardouschemicals.

e chemical recycling of cotton textiles as presented is not yet available inindustrial scale - although this process has been awarded with 300,000 eurosfor investments from the H&M Global Change Award 2015 - and does notfunction as a total solution to the issue. It is important to unify efforts from allmarket levels in order to spread this (an others) sustainable process(es). But evenif the industrial scale proves to be feasible, market entry may be difficult due toclose market with only few large players. Few representative companies in themarket share could offer resistance instead of support. In order to truly moveforward, it will be necessary to unify the different groups, institutions, developers,researchers, companies, and the government with supportive legislations, toguarantee the successful evolution of a sustainable fashion industry.

Acknowledgments

It is a pleasure to thank those who provided assistance in form of content, advices,suggestions, and network, and made this paper possible. I specially thank ShirinAsaadi, PhD researcher on the chemical recycle of cotton textiles, on who Ihave relied heavily on the support, understanding and expertise. As well as othermembers from Prof Herbert Sixta?s Biorefineries Group - Department of ForestProducts Technology, Aalto University, Finland: Dr Michael Hummel, AnneMichud, Yibo Ma, and Majaana Tanttu. I am also heartily thankful to Dr KirstenBrodde from Greenpeace and to Alan Wheeler, Director of Textiles RecyclingAssociation in the UK, whose sincere and encouraging words enabled me tounderstand the relevance and the challenges of the subject, and go forward in amore dynamic approach.



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Notes

[1] Chloride bleaching alternatives must be considered, as hydrogen peroxide, ozone,enzyme technologies (not allowed in GOTS due to GMO background) ( Fletcher &Grose, 2012, pg.34), or even CO2 (Feye Con, s.d.).

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