Show's Promise Future Trends Diamonds - The National ...

The mark of industry inspiration & information February 2019

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The NationalAssociationof Jewellers

Show’s PromiseJewellery & Watch Preview

Future TrendsWhat does 2019 hold in store?

DiamondsSynthetic science know-how

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The Jeweller AD - NOV/DEC 2018.indd 1 12/11/2018 14:32

If we somehow miss each other at the NEC, there will be plenty of other opportunities for a catch-up. Also previewed in this issue are Inhorgenta Munich (p15) and the CMJ Spring Trade Event (p62), as well as Desire, Scoop, NY NOW and London Fashion Week. Selecting images of new collections while pulling together these features is a pertinent reminder of the breadth of great design talent out there. Yes, an undercurrent of trade show ennui is evident, but personally I will always find excitement in discovering newness. I may be an editor… but I’m also a consumer!

And I’m also forever learning. Kerry Gregory’s tell-it-like-it-is, incisive guide to doing great business with diamond dealers (p20) has me – not for the first time – wishing that I was buying gemstones and not just writing about them. Should you require a little more knowledge on the science behind the screening and testing for synthetic diamonds, check out Prof. Richard Taylor’s study on this important issue on the following page.

Those in the luxury timepiece market should also find the views of watch collector and expert Angus Davies interesting – note how some of his shopping experiences can fall short of expectations (p64). While on the subject of consumers, our Forecast 2019 (p54) looks at future trends… from multi-channel selling and Chatbots to Pantone’s Colour of the Year and hot catwalk directions that will be pure retail gold. All this and not a murmur of the ‘B’ word… well maybe just a brief passing mention.

Here’s to a bold, bright, positive New Year. See you soon!

Belinda Morris, Editor

appy New Year people… if the year isn’t too far advanced now for me to wish you that? I hope that you enjoyed a prosperous festive period. Here at The Jeweller HQ we’ve hit the ground running after what seemed – to me at least – to have been a very long

break. So, it’s been all go to get this very full issue of the magazine on your desks just ahead of all the forthcoming trade shows… both at home and overseas.

We really hope that you liked the new luxe look of the November/December issue of The Jeweller. Building on that revamped design by our creative agency Senior, I think this issue raises the bar further still. We have the perfect glossy vehicle for a bumper preview of Jewellery & Watch Birmingham. Under new ownership the fair will have quite a new look of its own – a prelude to some fairly major changes promised for 2020. The NAJ team and I will be at the show, so please do come and chat to us on our stand (18N40), or, exhibitors, please do entice me on to yours as I’m passing!

H

The Editorfrom

“… with their standard grading system and numerous price guides, the reality is that identifying, valuing and buying diamonds is incredibly complex…”

“Easier navigation is promised… exhibitors fall into seven sectors: watches, bridal and fine jewellery, costume and fashion jewellery and services and solutions…”

“From the new Colour of the Year and trending silhouettes, to multi-channel normality and gold prices… here’s what’s on the horizon for the next 12 months...”

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3OpinionFebruary 2019

Inside this IssueFebruary 2019

NEWS

08 NAJ News Festive fundraising

10 NAJ News Benevolent Ball success

11 Setting Out The Goldsmiths’ Centre reveals six new jewellers

12 NAJ News WorldSkills competition winner

38 NAJ Awards The story behind the 2018 Awards trophy

44 Industry News From e-commerce to horological scents

52 NAJ News UK Jewellery Awards – the date for your diary

SHOWS

15 Inhorgenta Munich 2019 A preview new collections

18 Things of Desire Head to Chelsea for British design talent

27 Jewellery & Watch 2019 A Look Book of new collections at the Birmingham show

50 Scoop 2019 Show Preview – read it here first

58 London & New York Design Jewellery at NY NOW and London Fashion Week

60 Top Drawer Who unveiled what at Top Drawer

62 CMJ Preview CMJ Spring Trade Event news

TRENDS

54 Future Trends 2019 – the forecast

PROFILE

43 Member Profile NAJ Supplier of the Year – London DE

48 Industry News Shelanu – discover this collective enterprise

51 Book Review Treat yourself to ‘Jewelry for Gentlemen’

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BUSINESS ADVICE

9 Insurance The benefits of joining the TH March/NAJ Club

20 Synthetic Diamonds Silver design competition winner

22 Know your stuff! Kerry Gregory with tips on buying diamonds

46 IRV Busting valuation myths

49 CIBJO Congress 2018 Our man in Bogota… part two

66 JBN How JBN delivers retail value

OPINION

03 Editors Letter

07 CEO’s Foreword

36 Education What it takes to be a Bransom winner

64 Opinion An avid watch collector talks retail experience

The National Association of Jewellers 10 Vyse Street Birmingham B18 6LT 0121 237 1110 www.naj.co.uk

Editor: Belinda Morris [email protected]

Advertising sales: [email protected] 0121 237 1110

Designed & produced by: Senior Internet www.senior.co.uk 0115 838 9555

Printed by:HPA Print Ltdwww.hpaprint.co.uk07525 011 589

Contributory writers: Megan Austin, Angus Davies, Michael Donaldson, Kerry Gregory, John Henn, Prof. Richard Taylor

Front cover image:Domino Jewellerywww.dominojewellery.com0121 236 4772

The NAJ is responsible for producing The Jeweller and although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAJ does not accept liability, loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisors. The NAJ accepts no responsibility for the content of any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards

Want a personal copy of ‘The Jeweller’ delivered direct to your inbox?

Complete the form at www.naj.co.uk/subscribe or send an email to [email protected]

The NationalAssociationof Jewellers

5NAJ News

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New Year, New Benefits

More recently I’ve begun to get my teeth into some of the issues affecting you as jewellers, such as the loss of retail and manufacturing space, the Made in Britain campaign, and even talking to insurers about jewellery valuations – more on that in due course.

We start the year with some changes in our staff team, a new and challenging budget, and a planned transformation of the structure of our volunteer network with additional opportunities to get involved at every level. These changes will help us deliver the strategic plan at the heart of our development.

One constant that has been true wherever I’ve worked; membership organisations succeed when they put their members first. But understanding what our members need is often the single biggest challenge and this can only be done via reciprocal communication. What am I trying to say? We’ve started to ask questions, and will continue to do so!

I’m really excited about the next chapter for the NAJ. We intend to change along with our members to stay in the game. It will be an exciting year as we look to progress our strategy further, with the help of our new committees and our many stakeholders. One thing that I am confident

of is that we will continue to have a committed and professional staff team, excellent volunteers who give up their time to drive the organisation forward, and passionate and professional members who are enthusiastic about making the industry a little bit better.

Just around the corner we have some innovative new benefits to help our members reach their customers and promote products and services to the customer base. Come to see us at Jewellery & Watch – we’d love to give you a sneak preview, or if you can’t make it, see the NAJ website and next issue of the magazine for full details.

It is a privilege for the NAJ to represent over 2,000 member companies, collectively employing more than 22,000 individuals. Thank you for supporting your Association, and I look forward to working with you in 2019.

n December the NAJ Awards gave us a unique opportunity to acknowledge and salute the exceptional achievements of NAJ members. Awards shine the spotlight on our members – and what makes them special. The Awards, now in

their seventh year, remind us all how important it is to recognise what success looks like and celebrate it with those who have helped us achieve our goals. We were lucky to have the event within the Benevolent Society’s Ball, a great Christmas party for the whole industry – get next year’s date in the diary now (Thursday 5th December 2019).

With Jewellery & Watch fast approaching, it’s a good point to note that as you read this, I’ve been in post for about a year – and what a year it’s been! For me it has been a blur of activity; getting to know our staff team, our National Committee and steering group members, as well as some of our key partners, stakeholders, and as many members as my diary allows (and sadly it hasn’t allowed for anywhere near as many as I’d like). This intermingled with creating our new strategic plan, the development of our new website, and of course a revamp of The Jeweller magazine – now in both paper and digital format.

I’ve enjoyed asking the question ‘why’; and finding out your views along the way via our programme of industry events, from a stand at CMJ and Houlden, our presence at the major trade shows like IJL and Jewellery & Watch, to our NAJ Live events around the UK, and not forgetting the security and technology showcases we ran in London and Birmingham. All these will be repeated, with some minor improvements in 2019.

Simon Forrester CEONational Association of Jewellers

I

CEO’s foreword

I’ve been in post for about a year – and what a year it’s been!

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7OpinionFebruary 2019

he 13th of December 2018 saw the 83rd British Allied Trades Federation’s Benevolent Society Ball take place at the St Johns Hotel, Solihull, with

Jewellery & Watch as headline sponsor.

A charity auction was conducted by Jewellery Brokers’ David Doyle, the Society’s vice chairman and treasurer, with over £25,000 raised. Lots donated for the auction included a day’s hospitality sailing for eight people, donated by the Benevolent Society’s charity partner, The Ellen McArthur Trust. Another was the annual TH March Clay Pigeon Shooting Day and Dinner, with fiercely competitive bidding – eventually bought by Chris Sellors of CW Sellors.

Clogau donated a day’s rally driving in Snowdonia, plus dinner – purchased by Neil Mcfarlane of TH March. The Birmingham Assay Office offered a lunch for 10, which was bought twice – by Paul Thandi CEO of the NEC Group, and by Martin Bach MD of Cooksongold.

Next year’s Benevolent Society Ball is on 5th December. For early bird tickets at a special rate contact Gill Price (0121 237 1138 | [email protected])

AJ member Samuel Jones Pearls (SJP) was recently awarded a Defence Employer Recognition Scheme (ERS) Silver Award for its work as

a Forces friendly company, at the National Memorial Arboretum. The ERS encourages employers to support defence and inspire other organisations to do the same.

SJP was recognised as a Forces Friendly Company through its current employment of Armed Forces personnel, and its stance on employment; specifically that it actively recruits veterans and reservists, and makes

NSJP Wins Defence Employer Award

BATF’SBenevolent Ball Raises £25,000

allowances so that their commitments can be fulfilled. In 2017 SJP was awarded Bronze and has built upon this; it was delighted to be recognised by the ERS and will continue to work with the Armed Forces community, proudly supporting those who serve.

Shown here receiving the Award is Jack Maymon, who joined his parents Richard and Claire in the family business in 2017. As an Army Reservist, serving the Infantry

with 6th Battalion, The Rifles, this year he has been given leave by the business to go on operational deployment. (Richard – retirement plans on hold – will be back on the road!) Like Jack, Clara McFadden (left), one of SJP’s setters who is also a Royal Marine cadet volunteer, is afforded more regular and shorter time off for commitments, which often include training weekends and evenings.www.samueljonespearls.co.uk

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8 Association News The Jeweller

Offering a huge range of advantages for NAJ members, the ‘Club’ was set up in 2017 after exhaustive planning and negotiation. Key to the process was in-depth research carried out with the NAJ and its members. THM’s CEO Neil McFarlane above, speaking on Radio 4’s Money Box Live explains: “Our aim has been to strengthen our close working relationship with the NAJ by continuing to provide an ever-improving proposition with tangible benefits for Club members.”

NAJ / THM Club Benefits

1. Enhanced insurance cover2. Free General Insurance NAJ/THM helpline (excluding motor)3. Free and updated security guide4. Free security audit – online or via telephone5. Free 30-minute financial planning call – worth £1256. Financial Planning, Pension and Wealth Management advice –

10% discount off the THM fee 7. Discounted Key Person cover – 50% of initial commission to THM

(this will vary by product provider)8. Private Medical Insurance – not restricted to one provider, we

have access to all of major product providers and can source the most appropriate cover at the right price

9. Discounted Home Insurance – between 5 – 10%, depending on insurer

10. Free Access to security seminars

11. Payment of NAJ joining fee for new Jewellers Block policyholders who also join the NAJ. Worth £120

12. Joint e-mail marketing campaigns relating to our insurance services for members’ customers, via our market-leading Oracle CX Platform, including document design

13. A mid-term care call

Improved Insurance Cover

1. No ‘average’ or ‘underinsurance’ clause on policies2. Increased wearing limit of £25,0003. Increased working upon cover of £20,0004. 5% premium discount for installation of an approved fogging

system5. Unlimited wedding exhibition cover included up to £20,000

FOC6. Standard parcel limit of £50,000 by Royal Mail Special Delivery7. Standard parcel limit of £50,000 by RM International Registered

Post8. Increased parcel limit of £25,000 by Federal Express9. Money out-of-safe limit increased from £200 to £50010. Cost of changing locks or opening safe limit increased from

£1,000 to £2,00011. Nil excess on keys and locks replacement12. Contents temporarily removed from the premises increased

from £10,000 to the policy sum insured13. Trace and Access limit increased from £10,000 to £15,00014. Metered water charges limit increased from £5,000 to £15,00015. Territorial limits for laptops, mobile phones and tablets

extended to Worldwide for all business-related trips, with a limit of £1,000

16. Buildings cover automatically to include accidental damage17. External landscaping limit increased from £5,000 to £10,00018. Business Interruption cover extended to include accidental loss

or damage19. Definition of insured person for Personal Accident Assault cover

to include injury to customers within or immediately outside the premises, excluding weekly benefits

March Insurance Solutions (MIS) Referral Agencies – £10m back into the UK jewellery trade since 2010!

THM jewellers have the opportunity to become MIS referral agents for free under the well-established MIS scheme. Thousands earn valuable commission and repeat repair and replacement business simply by referring customers to THM for personal jewellery insurance.

Neil McFarlane advises: “Simply mentioning personal jewellery insurance to customers each time a purchase is made can really increase referral results. It’s also important to make certain that the unique agency number is available to customers… and that staff know it by heart. Publicise it with your free referral cards, on your website, at POS – in fact wherever you can. You can also ask your customers if they would like us to call them instead and then just provide us with contact details.

“UK businesses are functioning in a tough trading environment right now,” he adds, “so it makes sense to give yourself the edge by optimising your earning potential. If you can’t get along to Jewellery & Watch, find out more by visiting: http://bit.ly/2BhIIZ2 alternatively contact our MIS team on 01822 856 103 or speak to your account executive”.

Find out more at J&W (18N40) where TH March will share a stand with the NAJ

Jointhe Club!Heading to Jewellery & Watch? Visit the NAJ stand to learn about the TH March Club benefits for NAJ members.

9InsuranceFebruary 2019

iverpool fine jewellers Wongs raised £29,100 for Alder Hey Children’s Charity at its third annual Winter Ball, taking the total

raised to £121,389 over the last three years. The ball was held at The Event venue, donated by the Royal Liver Building.

Peter Wong, MD of Wongs Jewellers, said: “The ball was an incredible success and we’ve once again raised an amazing amount of money for Alder Hey Children’s Charity, which is very close to our hearts after the Alder Centre supported our family through the loss of my brother David back in 1995. On behalf of Wongs, I’d like to thank everybody who came and donated to the charity. The event has become something we all look forward to each year and 2019 is set to be bigger and better than ever.”

UK Government has produced a guide for businesses to help prepare for a no-deal BREXIT. The 120-page guide, which is available to NAJ Members via www.naj.co.uk/brexit summarises:

• Customs, excise, VAT and regulatory changes

• What to expect on ‘day one’ of a no-deal BREXIT

• Customs warehousing• The impact on: Individuals, Traders,

Service Industries, Creative, Cultural and Sport sectors, Specialist Traders (e.g. rough diamonds), Transportation of goods

• And contains handy links to step-by-step guides, further links and letters to support EU-only traders

If there is more information you’d like to see delivered to UK plc, contact [email protected]

(This guide may be academic by publication date of The Jeweller, should Brexit go ahead with a deal – Editor)

Fund-Raising NAJ MembersL

Meanwhile, Jacobs the Jewellers of Reading has raised over £85,000 (to date) for the Royal Berks Cancer Centre. In both their and the NHS’s 70th anniversary years, Jacobs had set out a programme to raise £70,000 for the local charity. The team shared the news that they had beaten their target in front of 270+ customers at their annual Christmas Jewellery and Watch Showcase event in November at the Hilton in Reading.

Jacobs delivered a raft of activities over 2018: co-owner Adam Jacobs skydived with four customers, Jacobs sponsored and supported the Royal Berks Charity Soapbox Derby and Golf days and seven unique pieces of jewellery were created in 2018, inspired by seven decades of style. When sold, a proportion has been donated to the Charity. In early October 250 guests joined the Jacobs team for a gala black-tie ball.

No-dealBrexitGuide

10 NAJ News The Jeweller

Now in its 6th year, Setting Out sees participating young businesses benefit from a central London-based studio space and a year of intensive business, creative and product development training, helping them to establish solid foundations upon which to grow their business. Taught by a team of top industry specialists, each participant receives over 40 one-to-one and group mentoring sessions covering over 30 topics, supporting them to develop a three-year business plan and launch a new product range.

This year’s participants include jeweller and silversmith Jessica Jue, whose award-winning work explores the themes of balance and harmony, and former sculptural installation artist and founder of Le Ster jewellery, Aishleen Lester, who was one of NAJ/IJL’s 2018 Kickstarters. They are joined by jewellers Holly O’Hanlon, who works with steel, slate, ground-down pearls, enameled thumb tacks and screws; Judith Peterhoff who creates organic textures for

classical jewellery structures; Margaux Clavel who draws inspiration from Victorian cut jewellery as well as Art Deco and Roman pieces and award-winning jeweller and enameller Yasmin Belkhayat whose treasure-like pieces pay homage to her Irish-Moroccan roots.

Jewellery designer Leonid Dementiev, a Setting Out alumnus 2018 explains: “Starting and running a creative business is always very challenging. From talking to many Master degree students in both artistic and business industries, Setting Out is [unique] because it helps creative people to understand the business side of the world they’re trying to enter. It’s not a business course and it’s not a creative course – it’s a mix of both which is really rare.”

Applications for Setting Out 2019 close on Sunday 19th May, 2019. For more information visit www.goldsmiths-centre.org/courses/setting-out

1. Yasmin Belkhayat

2. Judith Peterhoff

3. Aishleen Lester

4. Jessica Jue

5. Margaux Clavel

6. Holly O’Hanlon

The Goldsmiths’ Centre in London has revealed the six emerging jewellers and silversmiths chosen for its 2018 business incubation course, Setting Out

New Talent Setting Out The Goldsmiths’ Centre is welcoming

new applications for its Gold membership. Open to established businesses in the jewellery, silversmithing or allied industries that have practiced for at least two years, the scheme gives access to facilities at the Goldsmiths’ Centre on a flexible basis.

Successful applicants will gain access to benefits, such as: business registration and postal address at the Goldsmiths’ Centre; access to meeting room, hot desks and hot benches; promotion through the Centre’s website and social media channels; network opportunities and discount on short courses, venue hire and the Centre’s Bench café.

The Gold membership fee is £999 + VAT (or monthly DD: £95 + VAT). For more information and application form: www.goldsmiths-centre.org/membership

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11Industry NewsFebruary 2019

he NAJ hosted a collaborative interpretation space at WorldSkills UK Live, the UK’s largest skills, apprenticeships

and careers event. The show, which took place at the NEC in November last year, welcomed thousands of young people looking for careers inspiration, advice and support. NAJ and its partners spoke to over 2,000 people across the three days. The interpretation space was designed to showcase the industry.

The NAJ, together with CW Sellors and Cooksongold, staged a jewellery design competition for visitors. School children and their parents were invited to select a gemstone (supplied by Cooksongold) to inspire their design. The winner, chosen from more than 50 entries was Megan Haile from Train with Pride. Her design,

a pendant incorporating a special `odd one out’ feature, will be manufactured and presented by CW Sellors this year.

NAJ CEO Simon Forrester, who helped judge, said: “We were really pleased with the number and quality of entries – there are some possible future jewellery designers among the number. Our congratulations to Megan – we look forward to presenting her piece once it’s been made.” Chris Sellors of CW Sellors added: “It was a tough decision, but we loved the intricate and unique design, which is also on trend. Aesthetically the design provides nice lines and shape, with good use of the gemstone in making it stand out and therefore a ‘key’ feature of the piece.”

Stuart Wibberley, sales director at Cooksongold added: “Megan’s design showed real creativity. I was impressed by

the way she clearly thought about the design brief and cleverly used her stone to accent the piece. I also like that she thought about giving the piece identity with the ‘odd one out’ tag.”

Also present in the interpretation space were a wax carver, enameller and CAD designer from the Birmingham School of Jewellery, and an apprentice mounter from Hockley Mint. Colleagues from the British Horological Institute (BHI) were also on hand to provide practical watch demonstrations.

Chris Oliver, head of Professional Training at the Goldsmiths’ Centre, said: “The Goldsmiths’ Centre was delighted to have the opportunity to work with the NAJ to create an interpretation space which allowed attendees of the WorldSkills finals to gain further insight into the diversity of career opportunities within our industry.”

“After visiting the WorldSkills show last year we decided to support the NAJ in representing our industry,” said Gary Wroe, MD of Hockley Mint. “Stephen Redshaw our apprentice spent three days on the stand talking to students and allowing them to get an insight into jewellery making and answering their questions. We will certainly be looking forward to become more involved next year.”

Chris Sellors added: “As a proud British jewellery manufacturing business, it was wonderful to work alongside the NAJ at WorldSkills and see first-hand the enthusiasm and interest shown in all careers of our industry. With CW Sellors celebrating 40 years in business this year, we continue to demonstrate that our industry is very much alive and full of creativity, with our workshop looking forward to handcrafting Megan’s winning design.”

“The British Horological Institute was thrilled to join the NAJ and partners at WorldSkills UK,” said BHI manager Brian Noble. “This was the first time that watchmaking has been present at the show; it was an opportunity for us to explain to a younger audience that there’s a fabulous career to be had in this field. The luxury watch business is booming at present, and there are just not enough technicians and fully-qualified watchmakers coming through to cope with demand. Hopefully the BHI and NAJ can continue to work closely to build on the success of the show.”

On the evening of the final day of the event, Simon Forrester presented a medal to the winner of the WorldSkills Fine Jewellery Making competition – Matt Gough from Graff Diamonds.

The NAJ and its industry partners supported and celebrated the next generation of jewellers at WorldSkills UK Live

WorldSkills Competition Winner

T12 NAJ News The Jeweller

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FEBRUARY 22–25, 2019 INHORGENTA.COM/TICKETS

BE PART OF IT!

VISIT US!

FEBRUARY22–25,

2019

inho19_Anzeige_178x270_E.indd 1 04.01.19 14:15

Inspired by abstract art, architecture and space age design, UK-based designer-maker Elin Horgan produces modern, minimal handmade jewellery. With an ethos of ‘beauty in simplicity’, she uses geometric shapes and clean lines for an elegant, contemporary feel. Her collections, in sterling silver gold vermeil, are bold and striking while remaining lightweight, easy to wear and meticulously finished to ensure clean, crisp lines.

Lustrous Jewellery is a UK contemporary cultured pearl jewellery brand, specialising in hand-made, fashion-forward baroque and Keshi pearl jewellery. Among the many collections, are ‘seeing the rainbow’ (featuring signature rainbow pearls) and ‘pearls that sparkle with diamonds’, as well as new collections for Inhorgenta.

Azuni blends ancient cultures with modern fashion trends, traditional artisan skills with up-to-date manufacturing techniques to produce pieces that sit ‘Between Two Worlds’. New collections are ‘Etrusca’, taking inspiration from an early Mediterranean and Bohemian culture, and ‘Pueblo’, a new sterling silver collection in gold vermeil inspired by native cultures of mid-west America.

Inspired by travel experiences and nature’s beauty, Victoria von Stein creates storytelling jewellery. Playing with hammered textures, forms and gemstones, they combine feminine elegance with an organic look and feel. She handcrafts her pieces in sterling silver and 22ct gold plating using traditional silversmithing techniques. These ‘Havana Chandelier Earrings’ combine Havana’s tropical background with its neo-classic architecture and colourful positive energy.

London-based Lukas Caspar Jewellery founded by third generation fine jeweller Lukas (Caspar David) Grewenig, develops new innovative technologies married to traditional craftsmanship to create moments of surprise. The first collection ‘Victoria’ makes the viewer look for unexpected images mysteriously appearing on the pieces. Specifically designed stone cuts bring out unexpected light reflections in rhodolites, tanzanites and sapphires.

Greek-born Elsa Sarantidou, who studied jewellery design and silversmithing in England, showcases adventurous form and shapes, from geometrics to the soft curves of waves and flowers. Her collections include 18ct gold as well as silver and vermeil, set with diamonds and gemstones, and employ specialist techniques such as mokume and knit-weaving.

As well as major players from Germany and Italy in particular, a strong contingent of designer members of the NAJ and British Jewellery & Giftware International will showcase new collections at Inhorgenta Munich (22nd-25th February 2019). Here’s a preview:

Inhorgenta

15Show Preview

After graduating Elizabeth Jane Campbell spent a year as Artist in Residence at Glasgow School of Art before establishing her own Edinburgh studio. Her inspiration stems from the idea of balance, using geometric shapes, composition, colour and materials for simple contemporary jewellery. She likes to use traditional enamelling skills, such as cloisonné, while putting her personal stamp on the technique.

Kate Wood is continuing to explore fine beading with coloured gemstones and freshwater pearls, in organic clusters, as well as using colour gradients with more linear forms. Her popular ‘Ombré’ collection has been expanded to include a sapphire ‘Ombré Row Necklace’ with a gradient of blue sapphire beads. Her ‘Pearl Encrusted Loop Earrings’ are an organic take on romantic Georgian jewellery.

Lithuanian Dovile B studied contemporary jewellery in London, launching her brand in 2015. She uses various mediums and contrasting materials, including the combination of silicone and precious metals, influenced by colours and textures especially that of underwater landscapes and corals. The abstract interpretation is seen through vibrant colours, tactile material combinations, patterns and textures.

After Germany, the largest contingent of exhibitors at Inhorgenta comes from Italy – 70 this year, including Pesavento, Nanis and Marco Bicego. Nanis presents its 18ct gold ‘Reverse Jewels’ collection, including ‘Dancing in the Rain’ – slight pressure and the ring reveals its double. Tone-on-tone jewellery combine irregular pavé with precious stones, like ruby. Colour too from Danish brand Sif Jakobs with rainbow-hued cz-set pieces alongside new engravable jewellery in sterling silver and gold-plated silver with white cz stones.

Pioneering German pearl jewellery brand GELLNER aims to surprise again this year. The ‘Vivid’ line from the ‘Urban’ collection presents cultured pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds in a refreshingly unconventional manner: glass rings in seven radiant colors illuminate the precious pieces. The innovative material is an extremely durable blend of sapphire crystal and acrylic glass, for an intense luminescence.

Munich2019Inhorgenta

Brigitte Adolphe’s 2019 collection has moved away from ornamental and geometric looks and is inspired by flowers and leaves, as well as a visit to the lace museum in Plauen in the east of Germany, a town famous for centuries of lace-making. As well fine, filigree pieces the collection includes large, stunning statement pieces. Brigitte Adolphe now has a sales and marketing manager for the UK – Jan-Christian Bostelmann of DeutscheCraft.

www.inhorgenta.com

16 Show Preview The Jeweller

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Now that Chelsea Old Town Hall has been refurbished, Desire will be returning to this splendid venue (8th-10th March) with around 90 individual established and emerging jewellers and contemporary silversmiths, who have been selected for their innovative craftsmanship.

Exhibitors include jewellers working in gold, silver, platinum, palladium, aluminium, bronze, copper, titanium, cellulose acetate and glass and incorporating gemstones, pearls, enamelwork, sea glass, buttons, glass, silk threads and beads into their work.

Jacqueline Cullen’s new collection ‘Galactica’ is produced in grey agate set with champagne, electric and ice blue diamonds with frosted 18ct yellow gold fittings. The concept is “our intrepid space traveller

is traversing the Milky Way, past the moon through colliding asteroids, comets tails and neon dust!” The collection was launched at Goldsmiths’ Fair and Cockpits open studios and there was a great deal of support for her new direction after 15 years of working only in jet!

Flora Bhattachary will be introducing her new ‘Mor’ collection, inspired by Saraswati the Hindu goddess of learning and wisdom. “The collection celebrates the peacock, as a symbol of inner wisdom over external beauty,” she explains, “and it’s produced in recycled and conflict free gold with sustainable Tahitian pearls, Australian opals and conflict free diamonds.”

‘Redefining crochet for the 21st century’, Teri Howes’ work is entirely hand-made, drawing inspiration from fabrics, ribbons, bobbins and thread. Using antique crochet hooks, the gold or silver wire in fluid lines and sinuous curves capture tiny diamonds in individual stitches.

It may be targeting consumers, but such is the wealth of talent showing at Desire Jewellery & Silversmithing Fair in Chelsea, that anyone seeking new design talent would be wise to catch this showcase.

Opening times: 10am – 5pm daily Admission: £6 For further information call: 01622 747 325 visit: www.desirefair.com

Malcolm Morris

Things Desireof

Teri Howes, Left: Jacueline Cullen Right: Flora Bhattachary


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BY THC

19

What are the differences between synthetic, treated and natural diamonds?

A ‘perfect’ diamond would contain only carbon perfectly crystallised into a cubic crystal, creating a perfect repeating pattern of carbon atoms with no interruptions in the pattern. This ‘perfect’ diamond, whether of natural or of laboratory origin, would in theory be identical and so indistinguishable. Nature, however, offers us the potential of a solution, in that at the atomic level, complete perfection can never be achieved; a small population of imperfections are naturally incorporated into the structure within all crystals regardless of whether they are synthetic or natural. It is the differences in these populations of atomic defects between natural and synthetic grown diamonds that to date help us to discriminate between synthetic and natural diamond.

Typically, what are defects and how many defects are there in a diamond?

Defect populations can be very small, typically measured in parts per 1,000 to

parts per million – meaning a particular defect may be present at a rate as low as only one in every million carbon atoms. Atomic defects include structural defects: a missing atom (vacancy) or single atoms or quantities of atoms incorrectly aligned at a single point or in extended misalignment described as dislocation planes. Chemical (atomic substitutions) replacing carbon with another element including nitrogen, boron, hydrogen, oxygen, sulphur, nickel, cobalt and iron are also an atomic point defect. The most common defect in diamond is nitrogen whose presence or absence is used to define type I and type II diamonds. This classification is also used in testing between synthetic and natural. The very low concentrations of defects can make detection very problematic – much testing has to be completed at very low temperatures to work, typically using liquid nitrogen.

How can we characterise defects? An important factor in characterising defects in diamond is that defects may be isolated or alternatively grouped together within a diamond, creating populations of ‘point defects’, individual isolated

defects and ‘clustered defects’ – groups of individual defects clustered together around a single point. At the time of creation, it is considered most likely that all substitutions and vacancies start off as isolated point defects and that clustering takes place through diffusion in the solid crystal after growth.

Diffusion in the solid state is slow, with rates of diffusion that can be measured in millions or even billions of years. Two major factors can speed up this solid-state diffusion, one being increased temperature and the other is the presence of vacancies within the crystal lattice. The number of naturally occurring vacancies can be increased through radiation, both natural and artificial sources and more obviously the temperature can also be artificially increased.

The chemistry and concentrations of substitutional elements found in diamond can help the skilled gemmologist to differentiate between the natural and synthetic, however, the chemistry of synthetic diamond growth can be controlled to mimic the chemistry of natural growth, so this method is not in itself the solution to the problem of telling the difference.

Many gemmologists have described the differentiation of synthetic and natural diamond to be simply the challenge of identifying defect clusters found in natural diamond that develop over geological time (geological time being measured in millions or billions of years). The treater’s challenge is to replicate these defects through

In the final part of his series on synthetic gemstones, Professor Richard Taylor tackles the challenges and science behind the screening and testing for synthetic and treated diamonds

20 Synthetic Diamonds The Jeweller

processing synthetic diamonds to replicate these ‘natural defects’. Research and constantly updating knowledge of defects in diamond is therefore a very important and ongoing endeavour. How can we ‘see’ atomic-sized defects?

The atomic defects in diamond are too small to see directly with an optical microscope, so the methods available to ‘see’ atomic defects involve spectroscopy where light from a diamond is analysed for unique absorption features linked to specific defects. Spectroscopy uses both visible and invisible light including infrared and UV. Luminescence, phosphorescence and fluorescence spectroscopy are also important techniques. All of these techniques and combinations of them enable us to potentially infer the presence of diagnostic defects and their relative concentrations within a diamond being tested. Strain within diamonds can also be inferred using polarised light microscopy that can also help in the differentiation of synthetic or natural origin of certain diamonds

Is there a single test or instrument that does it all?

The simple answer to this question is ‘no’. All tests and instruments developed to date have their limitations. Some for example will screen stones that need further testing without confirming if the gem identified is synthetic or natural, although the stones

passed are passed as natural. Many of the current systems developed require the diamonds to be loose/unset, which is of no benefit to the jewellery trade attempting to test diamond-set jewellery. There are systems that have capabilities for testing set diamonds, but the capabilities are mixed, some providing the screening of suspect stones with further testing being required on suspect stones identified. No single system available – to the author’s knowledge – can screen for both treated natural and synthetic diamond.

What does the future look like?

Synthetic diamond growers and treaters are constantly modifying and improving their methods and techniques, both for the growth and the treatment of diamonds. Some undoubtedly seek to develop techniques that create defects that mimic features that identify natural diamonds and remove or modify any defects that are used to identify synthetic or treated diamonds. Major gem laboratories from all round the world are repeatedly reporting on previously unseen spectral features that are due to evolution and developments within the synthetic diamond and diamond treatment industries. So, the problem of testing is both a dynamic and a fast-moving challenge that requires not only immediate but ongoing attention.

The implications

The potential for adverse publicity, embarrassment or the damage to your brand and reputation is both real and current.

I have personally tested and identified jewellery set with a mixture of synthetic and natural diamond that is currently in circulation in the UK. The nature of social media today only increases these threats. A number of prestige jewellery brands have developed strategies over the last few years to protect their brand… it is important everyone acts to protect their reputation. Each solution developed must be tailored to the individual organisation to be comprehensive, appropriate and, very importantly, commercial. How can the industry protect itself and the consumer from these threats?

Firstly, and most importantly, recognise that there is a real and current threat and it affects everyone including you.

Secondly, complete an analysis of your business and activities to identify and quantify all the current and future risks.

Thirdly, develop a strategy to minimise all risks to your business.

Fourthly, develop systems to monitor and control the integrity of your stock and supply chain.

Finally, have policies in place to deal with consumer concerns and complaints, train your staff about the issues and the company policies you have put in place. If you don’t have the skills within your own organisation, seek support from outside agencies.

Anybody wishing to discuss the issues further or receive an initial free consultation can contact the author’s company Taylor & Co for an informal chat with an experienced and fully qualified expert.

[email protected] Tel: 01743 363188 Mob: 0780 1985883

21Synthetic DiamondsFebruary 2019

KnowWhile diamonds can seem relatively simple in comparison to coloured gemstones, with their standard grading system and numerous price guides available, the reality is that identifying, valuing and buying diamonds is incredibly complex.

It’s so much more than knowing the four Cs and reading a price guide. You need to understand the nuances within the four Cs that can have an impact on diamond value, and also how you can get the best out of your relationship with your diamond dealer. Here we are only discussing natural diamonds in the ‘white’ (D-Z colour) range; we’re not looking at fancy colours, treated diamonds or the minefield that is man-made diamonds.

Not all labs are created equal…

While I am not a fan of ‘trading in paper’ – I much prefer to look at stones in person and use my professional judgement – consumers as well as trade are increasingly buying diamonds from ‘certificates’. However, the laminated bits of paper that accompany diamonds issued by laboratories are not in fact certificates, they are reports. Why am I being pedantic? Aside from the fact it is an integral part of my nature, it is because it makes a difference. A certificate is a statement of fact, a report is an opinion. The facts on a diamond report are limited to the identity, shape and facet arrangement, weight and measurements, while the colour, clarity, cut grade and fluorescence are all opinions.

It is now common practice in the trade to grade diamonds by the standards set by Robert M. Shipley, who founded GIA in the 1930s. GIA still dominates the diamond grading market, and within the trade it is easier to sell a diamond with a GIA report than any other. When looking at asking prices on Rapnet, diamonds with a GIA report have an asking price around 20 per cent higher than those with other reports. Generally GIA is also the laboratory that consumers are aware of. There are many diamond grading laboratories operating worldwide, and some are trusted in the trade more than others, some are widely known to inflate or overstate grades, so be careful whose report you trust. While diamond grading is an opinion, major reputable laboratories rarely disagree by more than a single grade, and usually only with borderline stones.

She’s back! Kerry Gregory of Gemmology Rocks turns her spotlight away from coloured stones and on to diamonds, with some invaluable buying tips.

Your Stuff

22 Buying Diamonds The Jeweller

…even the same grades are not equal!

Which brings me onto my next point; diamond colour grades are not like a Dulux colour chart, they are not a single colour – they are a range. So a diamond graded at the top end of the colour grade is whiter than a diamond at the bottom of that range, so in reality is worth more. The same with clarity, and certainly in lower grades the range of inclusions you can get in one grade is quite broad. A top I1 clarity stone may just have one single white inclusion that is visible with the naked eye, a stone at the bottom may have multiple black inclusions, so will be less attractive, harder to sell, and worth less.

In recent years fluorescence has started to have a much bigger impact on the price of diamonds. When I started out 20 years ago, you might pay about 10 per cent less for a high colour stone with medium to strong fluorescence, because it can make the stone appear milky, and conversely you might have paid a bit more for a yellow stone that had blue fluorescence, because the blue can mask yellow tones, making the stone appear whiter. Now, many consumers are educated about fluorescence and the market generally devalues all strongly fluorescent stones due to a poorer demand. I also strongly advise you to check diamonds yourself for fluorescence using a LW UV lamp; never simply rely on what the report says. I learnt a hard lesson with that one years ago – a £30k plus refund on a reported diamond from a reputable lab that claimed no fluorescence when in fact it was fairly strong. I have never not checked since!

Cut is not just a shape

Diamond’s beauty comes not from colour, but from the way it interacts with light, creating a beautiful sparkle and fire. They only do this at their best if they are cut to the right angles and proportions. A poorly cut diamond can appear lifeless regardless of how high the colour or clarity grade is. On the other hand a beautifully cut diamond of lower grades can look stunning if it reflects and disperses light the right way. It is so important to take cut quality into account when assessing a diamond, and one of the reasons it is better to view a diamond in person. A stone with an excellent polish, symmetry and proportions, termed a ‘triple x’ will trade far higher than a stone with lower cut grades.

Weight is not just a number

Somehow over the years a 1.00ct diamond seems to have taken on an almost iconic status. We buy diamonds by the weight, per carat, one fifth of a gram. But we have these ‘magic numbers’ where the price can jump massively just for tipping over a weight range. A 0.99ct diamond will cost you around 26 per cent less than a 1.00ct diamond despite weighing only one per cent less! Due to the demand for a perfect one carat stone, you will also pay less for one that weighs a little more. Which is why many retailers now sell ‘minimum guaranteed weight’ diamonds rather than a stated weight – another way of buying cheaper diamonds, or parcels of diamonds, while satisfying consumer demand.

Doing the deal

As with coloured stones a good relationship with your diamond dealer is key to getting good advice, good stones and a good price. There is much competition in the diamond market with such visibility of price due to price guides and trading platforms, so margins for diamond dealers can sometimes be low; often tougher than margins on colour. As always time is money, so be prepared, know what you want, your budget and what a realistic price is. If you have stones on appro from your dealer, keep in touch, let them know the state of the deal, firstly so they are not chasing you and secondly so they know you are serious about the business. Always pay your bills, on time. If for some reason you are having an issue, pick up the phone; communicating is really essential. If you have a good relationship, generally they will be happy to work with you to help. Demand is high for good quality stones, you will not get a ‘deal’ on a stone everyone wants.

In conclusion, my advice is: know your stuff, know the market, know what your competitors are doing. Make sure you know more than your customers, and if they come to you saying they have found the ‘same stone’ cheaper elsewhere, make sure they truly are comparing diamonds like for like. Educate them about value factors, and if it is one of the rare occasions where they are getting the same for less money, don’t bother getting into a trading war over paper, it is not worth it, you will only erode your own margin. Let others chase the ‘cheap’ business; concentrate on delivering quality service, value and experience.

Your Stuff

23Buying DiamondsFebruary 2019

F L A W L E S S C R E A T E D J E W E L S

TREASURE HOUSE COMPANY 2 0207 400 0000

N A J M E M B E R S H I P 2 3 9 3 5

Date, Time & Location 3rd – 7th February 2019The NEC, Birmingham, B40 1NT

Sun 3rd Feb 9:00 - 18:00Mon 4th Feb 9:00 - 18:00Tues 5th Feb 9:00 - 18:00Wed 6th Feb 9:00 - 18:00Thurs 7th Feb 9:00 - 16:00

There is free parking at the NECTrain: Birmingham International

www.jewelleryandwatchbirmingham.com

These are challenging times for trade shows. However, 2019 marks a new beginning (or at least the start of a new beginning) for Jewellery & Watch as its new owner, ITE Group, develops “a transformative plan to boost the show in 2020”.

Timeless Classics at

Marjo

New FutureLooking

to a

25J&W PreviewFebruary 2019

aving purchased J&W and its sister show, Spring Fair in May 2018, ITE has outlined ambitious plans to grow both

shows with “significant investment and a refreshed focus on content”. But while we’ll have to wait another year to see the fruits of the new management ethos, visitors will notice some changes to this year’s ‘transitional’ show.

For instance there’ll be a new seminar theatre, The Studio, featuring keynote interviews with leading and emerging designers, along with trend insights to help attendees take advantage of changes in the marketplace. This will be supported by technical and educational sessions, designed to equip retailers with business-boosting insights.

Besides the fact that J&W 2019 is significantly smaller (with many of the big-stand exhibitors having elected to stay away this time), a key difference that visitors will notice involves the show’s layout. This year J&W will span Hall 18 and part of Hall 19, which was traditionally dedicated to fashion jewellery… so no border control between fine and fashion jewellery. Which will also make it easier for J&W visitors to access the Main Stage in Hall 20, where a selection of global industry experts will explain what 2019 has in store for the world of retail.

Easier navigation is promised thanks to the new layout, which has grouped businesses according to their specialism and sector. Exhibitors fall into seven show sectors: watches, bridal and fine jewellery, costume and fashion jewellery and jewellery services

H

New FutureLooking

to a

and solutions. In addition, the show is reinforcing its connection to Birmingham and the Jewellery Quarter with special features and industry collaborations celebrating the area’s 250 years of heritage.

In a change to previous years, J&W 2019 will introduce The Studio – a seminar theatre offering a mix of talks by professionals from the jewellery and fashion accessories space. Highlights include daily sessions with emerging design talents, trends inspiration from internationally-recognised trend forecaster, Paola De Luca, and insights into the online customer experience with Chris Moore of Cohesion Digital. The Studio will also welcome established jewellery designer Rachel Galley, marketing specialist Nyasha Pitt of Living Content and experts in the detection of synthetic diamonds.

A highlight of Day Three will be ‘Bridal Trends: what will be driving bridal fashion in S/S 2020’. Bridal retailers, buyers and visitors will be invited to discover some of the key trends of the next two years, from diamond shapes, cuts and colours, to precious metal preferences and design styles.

“We’re excited to see where the investment, energy and positivity of ITE Group takes Jewellery & Watch in 2019 and beyond,” says the show’s event manager, Kirsty Broere. “[For now] we look forward to showcasing hints of what’s to come, including a new seminar schedule and a closer relationship with Spring Fair exhibitors and visiting buyers.” ITE’s long-term goals focus on boosting return on investment for exhibitors, creating a content-driven experience for visitors and encouraging further movement of buyers from Spring Fair and into J&W. It will also turn its attention to a type of ‘business match-making’, which will see the show play a more active role in introducing the right suppliers to the right retailers and buyers – a key focus for 2020.

Meanwhile, some of the show’s exhibitors will be doing their bit to up the excitement levels. J&W exhibitor J&K Henderson, for instance, is aiming to strengthen the ties between J&W and Spring Fair by distributing over 1,000 vouchers for a free watch (with an RRP of £50 each) among Spring Fair visitors. On Sunday at 2pm designer Lucy Quartermaine will host a Champagne launch of her new brand vision, ‘Be Unique’.

Eliza Bautista

Elements Gold at Gecko

26 J&W Preview The Jeweller

Look Book

Adore Jewels

Jaipur-based Adore, established in 2003, specialises in hand-made gold/diamond, gemstone and silver jewellery, which it exports around the world. Styles range from contemporary to exuberant, glamorous Indian designs.(Hall 18, 19L09)

Zlatarska Radiona Krizek

Entering the UK market for the first time, this Croatian manufacturer focuses on precious metal jewellery – wedding and engagement rings, diamond earrings, pendants and sets and traditional 14ct gold Croatian styles.(18T18)

Eliza Bautista

New UK jewellery designer, Eliza’s bridge collection offers sterling silver as well as three-micron 18ct yellow and rose gold vermeil, for lines that also include gemstones such as topaz, amethyst, onyx and citrine and a diamond collection new for J&W.(18DQ42)

Newcomers To Jewellery & Watch

Zlatarska Radiona Krizek

Eliza Bautista

Adore Jewels


Charlotte Lowe

New to the ‘Timeless Treasures’ collection is a range of gold and platinum rings designed to be given as promise, wedding, engagement and remembrance rings. Each ring appears to be a textured band, but on closer inspection, etched images (representing a precious moment) within the metal are revealed. (18DQ45)

Wedds & Co

By customer demand the Birmingham-based manufacturer has added new Signature diamond wedding rings to its collection, with a choice of diamond qualities available. Also new are solitaires, trilogies, halos and clusters designed with Millennials in mind and with matching wedding rings.

(18R11)

UJT

Introducing a new and expanded tennis bracelet collection, offering ranges from 2.00ct - 6.00ct in diamond qualities: GH-I1 and GH-SI, in 14ct and 18ct with smaller ones up to 3.00ct also in 9ct. Bangles are placed for the future.(18S04/T05)

Unique & Co Gold Collection

Launched last year, this demi-fine, 9ct gold collection features minimalist, geometric and organic forms for everyday jewellery at accessible price points. The collection is now stocked successfully by more the 50 retailers.(HALL 18, 19K20-M21)

Tankel

Tankel’s strength is to consistently source diamonds that are superb value for money, understanding the reality of a price-sensitive market. It reports a very strong demand for high colour diamonds with small marks not visible to the naked eye.(18 S10)

Fine & Bridal Jewellery

UJT

Charlotte Lowe

Wedds & Co

Tankel

Treasure House (18S14/T15)


Lapidary London

Treasure House’s Lapidary comprises stylish jewellery in sterling silver, hand-set with CZ and other coloured replica gems. The silver is triple plated with palladium, platinum and rhodium for a superior finish. Designed in-house, the diverse range suits all ages and tastes, delivering quality at affordable prices.(18S17)

Midhaven

Capturing the feel of several SS19 fashion shows, Midhaven’s line includes strong, geometric shapes for earrings and pendants. In sterling silver and finished with rose gold or rhodium plating or touches of CZ, the range offers value for money, with RRPs starting from under £10.(18L01)

Cavendish French

The 2019 collections include bold handcrafted statement pieces and simple everyday designs in plain silver. It also offers new copper and silver designs, rose gold pieces and micropave-set cz jewellery with the quality and look of fine diamond jewellery… without the price tag. (HALL 18, 19K10-L11)

Elements Silver and Fiorelli at Gecko

The focus has been building on the successes seen in the past year with new updates on best sellers across all ranges. Crystals by Swarovski sparkle in candy shades in the new Elements Silver collection, perfect for the bridesmaids market. Texture and re-worked classics come into play at Fiorelli.(18 M30-M31)

Silver & Fashion Jewellery

Fiorelli at Gecko

Lapidary

Midhaven

Elements Silver at Gecko

Cavendish French


Beach Art Glass

Julie Fountain melts glass rods in flames to create unique glass beads. “We were very affected by the film, A Plastic Ocean, inspiring the ‘Turning Tides’ pendant, decorated with waste glass from my regular bead production. We’ll donate £5 from the sale of each pendant to the charity, Plastic Oceans UK.” (18R10-S11)

CME

CME is a leading importer and wholesaler of high-quality, non-branded, sterling silver jewellery, with around 5,000 lines across all jewellery styles, for all ages. Seen here, a Cheapside Hoard-inspired pendant.(18P10-Q11)

Silver & Fashion Jewellery

Rodney Holman

Offering an extensive and ever-evolving collection of fashion jewellery for all tastes, the emphasis on fantastic designs, brooches in particular – many exclusive – combined with great customer care and no minimum order. (18M02)

Unique & Co

Interesting textures and finishes define over 70 new sterling silver styles, falling into several capsule collections, each designed to layer into existing ranges. Nature-inspired, organic forms feature, along with stones, freshwater pearls and other details.(HALL 18, 19K20-M21)

Reeves & Reeves

Adding to its collection of nature-themed jewellery, Reeves & Reeves is introducing ‘Continuous Line’ – silver necklaces forming outlines of a stag, fox, rabbit, hen and chick, pheasant and horse. Also new, queen bees, acorns, running hares and foxes, plus ‘huggy’ style earrings in silver or gold vermeil.(19H05)

Beach Art Glass

Unique & Co

Reeves & Reeves

CME

Rodney Holman


London Pearl

New collections in silver, 9ct and 18ct gold will be introduced, as well as a new line of 18ct rings with diamonds, coloured stones and pearls and self-adjusting silver rings. A new range of very accessibly-priced, 18ct-set Tahitian pearls will also be unveiled.(18T31)

Pilgrim

The Summer ’19 ‘Ama’ collection features strong, feminine, contemporary pieces with fresh water cultured pearls taking centre stage, their irregularity celebrated in earrings and pendants.(19H22/J23)

Elements Gold At Gecko

Pink freshwater pearls sit alongside rose amethyst and blue topaz in the new Elements Gold collection, for cocktail rings, briolette pendants and drop earrings with diamond highlights.(18 M30-M31)

Lido Pearls

Following the market introduction of ‘Edison’ pearls four years ago, the demand for very large cultured freshwater pearls has increased recently, with many 11-15mm pearls in soft tones of pink, peach, white and cream being seen. Lido will show an extensive new collection of ‘Edison’ style pearls – earrings, pendants, long ropes, bangles and bracelets in sterling silver and rose gold.(19 K14-M15)

Gemstone & Pearl Jewellery

Lido Pearls

Marjo

Pilgrim

Prism Design (18DQ01)

London Pearl

Timeless Classics at Marjo

Elements Gold at Gecko

Marjo

Sterling silver, gem-set jewellery, with new designs using 15 different gemstone types. Also showing Vera Vega, contemporary pieces in silver and gold vermeil and Timeless Classics, which includes new pearl jewellery, directly inspired-by and crafted-from original Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Late Victoriana designs.(HALL 18, 19K32)

February 2019

Yulan Jewellery

Yulan will be expanding on its popular silver and 9ct red gold cuff bangle from the ‘Torque’ collection, with the introduction of new pieces on this silver/red theme – including collars.(18DQ04)

Caitlin Victoria

Describing her jewellery as ‘figurative, yet abstract, wearable pieces with conceptual beginnings’, Caitlin works in 9ct gold and silver, with each piece made by hand. ‘Lavish’ features coloured cz stones set into organic forms, while ‘Melt’ has a strong, fun feel.(18DQ22)

LucyQ

Designer Lucy Quartermaine will launch a new capsule collection, including sterling silver ‘Open Drop’, featuring open fretwork rather than the closed-in solid form of parent ‘Drop’ collection. There will also be four different finger-wrapping ‘Armour’ rings across three collections, all hinged for easy adjustment.(18DQ40)

Hazel Atkinson

Hazel heralds the arrival of spring with an abundance of foliage – the striking ‘Ivy’ anodised aluminium jewellery collection with its new colours and shapes. Vibrant pinks and greens, cool blues and lavenders are entwined with ivy leaves. Hand-crafted in Nottingham.(18DQ90)

Prism Design

Featuring: strong bold titanium for men and light, colourful, hypoallergenic titanium for women; gold and gem set pieces, using a broad range of bright and colourful stones playfully set together; sculptural shaped wedding rings which will fit closely next to existing engagement rings. (18DQ01)

Val B’s Wax

In 2014 Valerie Blount discovered that painting with melted waxes (encaustic art) can be applied to jewellery and she launched her first range of copper pendants. The intricate miniature images sealed under glass are now in sterling silver – a concept unique to Val B.(18DQ27)

Jewellery Designers

Val B’s Wax

Gemma J

Prism Design

Caitlin Victoria

Yulan Jewellery

LucyQ

Gemma J

Specialists in jewellery for lovers of the countryside, horses and dogs, Gemma J will be showing three main collections: ‘Gallop’, ‘Woof’ and ‘Country’.(19H13)


Tribal Steel

Taking a step on from the established trend for leather wristwear, the new Tribal Sports line utilises nautical look cord and rope elements, paired with a distinctive stainless-steel shackle fixing.(18L01)

Fred Bennett At Gecko

The focus is on new leather bracelets with a crosshatch detail, plus multi-row styles. A new pre-selected bracelet tray includes all new styles and some existing best sellers. New stainless steel chains build on the success seen with these in 2018.(18 M30-M31)

Lotus

A collection of on-trend watches for modern men and women looking for strong aesthetics combined with functionality and value for money. (HALL 18, 19K20-M21)

Festina

The successful international brand will again be launching quality, modern, well-priced designs with a sporty, functional spirit… for both women and men. (HALL 18, 19K20-M21)

Unique & Co Men’s

Building on demand for matte, brushed finishes launched last year, the feature will be a strong element among the 70 new styles. Attention to detail being key there will also be new black-edged leather bracelets, plus necklaces, bracelets, cufflinks and rings in stainless steel, titanium and tungsten.(HALL 18, 19K20-M21)

Watches & Mens Jewellery

Oxygen at Mode9

Fred Bennett at Gecko

Festina

Tribal Sport

Unique & Co Mens

Lotus


Frög Watches @ Life & Style Group

Established in 1932 these timepieces are inspired by '30s and '40s style – retro-modern classics. Oversized dials, rugged leather straps and raised crystal domes give these watches vintage style combined with contemporary functionality.(18DQ32)

Simon Kemp

Working in sterling silver or silver with a five-micron layer of 24ct gold (certain parts removed to reveal the silver and highlight intricacies in the design), Birmingham-based Simon specialises in cufflinks created from his own moulds.(18DQ47)

Watches & Mens Jewellery

Storm

From a collection that is always full of surprises, new direction and innovation, Storm is bringing neon back with the Cobra X watch, with its delicate honeycomb appearance and a bold range of colours.(HALL 18, 19L22-M23)

Kurate International

Kurate launches its new Belle & Beau watches collection – a ‘natural next step’ for the brand, designed to complement its established jewellery. The Cosmetica Collection offers a modern design with a polished rose gold finish, in colours from porcelain and clay to midnight and shadow. (18 N20-P21)

Mode9

From luxury Swiss brands Emile Chouriet and Epos to accessibly-priced fashion names Nowley from Spain and Oxygen from France, Mode9 will be unveiling new watch collections for men and women. Expect the full gamut from in-house complications and 18ct gold cases, to dynamic fashion and sporty looks.(Hall 18, 19L14)

Frög Watches

Belle & Beau at Kurate International

Emile Couriet at Mode9

Storm

EPOS at Mode9

Simon Kemp


ZD Damaso

Rocket Jewelry Packaging

IWM Design

PK Pack India (Damaso)

With its roots in India, packaging giant Damaso has since expanded into Hong Kong, China, USA, Chile and a head office in Dubai. With an in-house design team it creates luxury bags, plus boxes for all types of jewellery, ranging from card to wood and leather.(18N41)

Rocket Jewelry Packaging

Over 100 years old, Rocket today is as successful in packaging as in merchandise presentation, particularly of fine jewellery. In addition to catalogue products, it offers custom work in a variety of materials and provides innovation and creative design options.(18 P11)

Connoisseurs

Increase your aftercare offering through watch care, now available from Connoisseurs. The Watch Cloth uses the same two-ply cleaning system as its Jewellery Beauty Buffs range and is in a travel-friendly size, with a high-quality formula. The Quick Cleanser is a viscous gel, which dissolves dirt in hard-to-reach areas, such as between bracelet links.(18, N32-P33)

Just Bros. & Co

One of the UK’s largest packaging suppliers, Just Brothers & Co also supplies hand-made jewellery display in a wide range of vibrant colours and from inexpensive card to luxury leather. Hand-made as well as off-the-shelf displays are available in black, white and cream leatherette finishes. (18 N33)

Clarity & Success

Clarity & Success provides a complete stock management and Point-of-Sale solution for retail jewellers and gift shops or any retail business. It is both user friendly and comprehensive to suit the requirements of all independent retailers, with over 4,000 clients in over 40 countries. (18P31)

IWM Design

This family business provides bespoke shop display service to the jewellery industry, designing and making cabinets in its own workshops.(18P30)

Service & Solutions

Connoiseurs

Just Bros. & Co


“In the summer of 2017 I was looking for something different from the norm after working at a computer screen in an office for the last 15 years. I love dealing with people and being in the heart of the Lake District we have a lot of tourism-based jobs. I was lucky enough to be offered a position working for the amazing British designer, Daniella Draper.

“She definitely likes to ensure we all have the knowledge to speak to customers about her products. We have four shops and it’s very important that we all adhere to the same standards. I was asked if I’d like to take JET when I went full time in April 2018. I was initially nervous – I thought it may be too in-depth for me – after all, my role is as a sales assistant not jewellery designer! However the course was fantastic, helping to open my eyes on the construction of jewellery, in so much more detail than I could ever imagine.

“It was great to be praised for my comprehensive coverage for the diamond assignment. I love all gemstones, but I think diamonds in particular are seen as the most valuable – people take more risks to find and sell them. I am, as much as I can be, ethically minded – it’s important that we ensure the way all stones are mined responsibly, in a genuine and environmentally conscious manner. I did a lot of reading and researched all of the essay topics in-depth before I started working on the assignments to ensure that I could answer the questions fully and get the best marks available.

“The most enjoyable part of JET was learning about lots of different subjects, from birthstone meanings and healing benefits, to the scientific facts behind each gemstone. I wasn’t very good at science at school so it’s funny that I need to educate myself on some very technical aspects about metals, gemstones and making jewellery. But the science behind the properties in the metals and stones was tricky to get my head around. Some of the technical terms were a whole new world to me and it took a while to understand these. Luckily there are lots of team members who have taken the course before so I could ask for guidance when I felt stuck. But I tried not to rely on my work colleagues too much as I wanted to make sure that I answered all of the questions myself without copying previous students.

“Taking the JET course has definitely affected my working life. I’m now much more confident in selling Daniella’s jewellery as I can pass on my knowledge to customers so they have a better shopping experience. And I can also help the other team members to learn more about the pieces we sell. I feel that the technical knowledge gained has benefitted me, the Bowness shop and Daniella’s business as a whole. The benefits will be huge going forward. I think JET was fun to learn and didn’t ever feel like I was under pressure or out of my depth with the subjects covered. I hope to carry on with the next course to improve my knowledge even further.”

www.danielladraper.comwww.naj.co.uk/qualifications

BransomAwardStar About to embark on a JET course? Emma Benson of Daniella Draper, Bowness on Windermere, the winner of the Bransom Award for October 2018, tells her jewellery story and JET experience.

36 Education The Jeweller

The Association launched a competition to design the new trophy at the Birmingham School of Jewellery, with the winner announced as Lorna McNaught.

“My design incorporates traditional jewellery making with the modern design software beginning to dominate the jewellery industry,” she explains. “The design is a pickle pot [familiar to anyone who works at a bench or is a regular visitor to a jewellery workshop]; the tools inside the vessel represent each of the categories in the NAJ Awards. For example, the saw frame and hammers for Workshop Employee of the Year and the ring mandrel for the Retailer of the Year. Whether someone has 40 years industry experience or they’re just starting out, the design resonates with everyone and represents all the facets of the industry.”

The NAJ would like to thank the Birmingham Assay Office, which sponsored the trophies, being proud of its long-standing connection with the School of Jewellery. Huge thanks also go to the School, whose workshop created the trophies themselves.

As well as thanking our judges for taking time out of their businesses to identify the winning entries, we would also like to thank Storecheckers who carried out mystery shopping on our retail entries. We’re also very grateful to the sponsors of the eight categories, and, of course we must thank every member who entered the Awards… so many inspiring stories!

Now, turn the page to learn more about our winners.

NAJ Awards 2018: The TrophyFor the 2018 NAJ Awards we decided that we’d love to hand over a completely new trophy to our eight category winners


Don’t miss out, book now at naj.co.uk/synthetic

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• Review HPHT and CVD production methods• Learn about De Beers screening• Get to grips with the key identification features

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13th February 2019

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8427 Synthetic Diamonds course Ad_A4_AW2.indd 1 08/01/2019 15:39

Service Provider of the Year Winner – Facets PR

Since becoming an independent limited company in 2017, FACETS has expanded its reach and services, now offering celebrity dressing, media buying, social media strategies and community management, influencer collaborations, contract publishing, event management and sales. It adapts quickly to media world changes, while working with a wide range of clients, from international brands to high street retailers. It also showcases its clients and guest brands through showrooms during London Fashion Week and hosts Couture London, a Bond Street showroom for fine jewellery designer brands, open to VIP customers, press and buyers each June. This year FACETS opened offices in Hong Kong and Singapore.

Sponsor – Parify Group www.parify.co.uk

From Parify’s innovative lighting to bespoke full shop fitting solutions by Progressive Display, the Parify Group designs and manufactures it all.

Jewellery And Watch Supplier of the Year Winner – London DE

London DE is the UK’s leading supplier of certified diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and other coloured gemstones. It ethically sources and supplies loose stones and creates bespoke handmade jewellery in its Hatton Garden workshops. See p.51 to learn more. Sponsor – Inhorgenta Munich www.inhorgenta.com

The Inhorgenta Munich fair provides individuality, inspiration, and innovation – a whole world of jewellery and timepieces. Together with the jewellery wholesale trade, it is building the future of the industry.

NAJ Awards: The WinnersThe festive season got off to a fabulous start with the NAJ Awards, held, as ever, during the Benevolent Society Ball. If you weren’t there… you missed a great night of fun, high fives and fund-raising (£30,000 and rising!). Here are the winners:


Workshop Employee of the Year – Martine Gregory, Lumbers

Following a YTS training scheme learning lost wax casting and after three years working in a manufacturing workshop at H Gomersall Group, Martine became the sole goldsmith of Lumbers Jewellers in Leicester. Being the entire workshop resource of a busy retail store is a challenge; however no matter how big or small the project, Martine gets the job done. She embraces the company ethos of: ‘the answer is yes, what’s the question?’ After 37 years she’s the workshop’s mainstay, embracing repairs and bespoke manufacturing with relish. Self-taught, she’s worked upon, and made and repaired very fine jewellery. Martine also shares her knowledge with clients on workshop days, when they learn the basics of goldsmithing. Sponsor – Presman Mastermelt www.mastermeltgroup.com

Since 1945 Presman Mastermelt has grown from humble Hatton Garden beginnings to a leading, global, precious metal refiner, with sites in the UK, USA and SE Asia.

Retailer of the Year – Bond Jewellery & Diamonds

Passionate about creating exquisite, handcrafted pieces and delivering a unique, personalised service, Bond’s ethos centres around delivering the sentiment and prestige of a custom-made jewellery commission through its team of master goldsmiths and an innovative and personalised approach to customer service. With a luxurious showroom and workshops in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, it crafts each piece in the UK. Clients are invited to work with their own designer, modifying and tailoring Bond’s designs or creating from scratch. Bond has a scrupulous diamond screening process and educates clients on diamonds and their attributes, leading to confident and informed purchasing. Sponsor – Hockley Mint www.hockleymint.co.uk

With in-house specialists in wax carving, diamond setting, polishing and finishing, and a new generation of CAD/CAM specialists, Hockley Mint continues centuries-old traditions.

Designer of the Year – Claudia Bradby

Designed in the UK for over 15 years, Claudia Bradby is a pearl jewellery specialist using highest quality freshwater pearls and rhodium plated silver. Claudia’s ambition is to make pearls accessible to all women, appropriate for all occasions, through thoughtful, modern and relevant design.

The pearl is at the heart of the company, every design, every collection. No two pearls are the same – each stone has a different shape and lustre, each design a different way or spirit in which it can be worn. Claudia Bradby jewellery is designed to work together, forming a complete modern pearl wardrobe. Many pieces have adjustable lengths, and separate elements allowing for many looks within one item.

Sponsor – Clogau www.clogau.co.uk

Clogau is excited to recognise this year’s winning designer. Every piece created contains rare Welsh gold and becoming an heirloom personal and cultural meaning.

41February 2019

And finally…

The Benevolent Society would like to thank the many companies who generously sponsored The Benevolent Society Christmas Ball. All profits raised enable the charity to continue to provide financial assistance to individuals who have worked within the industry or are starting or progressing their career journeys.

Sales Person of the Year Winner – Clare Tyler, Purely Diamonds

From creating invoices on a typewriter in the late ‘70s, to sending emails today, Clare has seen Purely Diamonds and consumer develop through technology changes and jewellery style developments, and always puts the customer first. She’s continued to stay fully trained on all communication methods to ensure she’s able to offer the best help possible. Her knowledge of jewellery and the industry ensures all customers’ needs are met. From sourcing diamonds of a particular quality, to working with the design team on bespoke requests, Clare stays one step ahead. Farringdon-based Purely Diamonds has been at the forefront of the bridal jewellery industry since it began in 2005, with its foundations reaching back to 1979.

Sponsor – Windiam Diamonds

Windiam’s sources and delivers an extensive selection of polished diamonds to leading global brands, jewellery chains and smaller boutiques.

Member of the Year Winner – Hockley Mint

In 1953 the Merrell family created a specialist casting company in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, offering quality precious metals and showcasing the skill of British craftsmen and women. By 1992 it expanded into finished mounts, fine jewellery, polishing, setting and bespoke design – Hockley Mint was born. Today, both businesses operate side-by-side, one of the largest independent jewellery manufacturers in Europe, specialising in everything from hand-carved waxes to ready-to-wear collections. The name associated with its award-winning bridal mounts and wedding bands, Wedfit™, has become recognisable in the trade. Apprentices, long-serving staff, managers and third generation Merrell family work closely together, for their customers and for the betterment and reputation of British manufacturing.

Sponsor – TH March www.thmarch.co.uk

Leading specialist insurance broker to the UK jewellery trade and insurance partner to the NAJ and other trade organisations. Co-founders and continuing financial sponsor of the SaferGems anti-crime initiative.

Website of the Year Winner – Cooksongold

With over 18,000 products Cookson is dedicated to helping the jewellery making industry. It has a range of bullion cut to requirements, as well as tools, findings, chain, wedding ring blanks, packaging and much more! It stocks the industry’s biggest brands.

Cookson also offers bespoke manufacturing capabilities, stampings and additive manufacturing services. It’s the leading UK expert in precious metal scrap, offering payments on gold, silver, platinum and palladium. A one-stop source for all things jewellery making!

Sponsor – International Jewellery London www.jewellerylondon.com

IJL enjoys a heritage of showcasing the best of luxury materials, design and craftsmanship, and is the pre-eminent annual destination for the best of British fine jewellery, as well as leading brands from around the globe.

42 NAJ News

“We decided to put in a bid again because it shows that we’re pushing hard to make an impact on the industry,” says founder and MD of London Diamonds & Emeralds (London DE) Phil Spencer (no, not that Phil Spencer). “We’re passionate about the business and with outstanding five-star rating on Trustpilot, we want to build on that reputation and I think awards like the NAJ’s build confidence.

“We’ve been members of the NAJ (and previously the BJA) since the beginning. We’ve found that the NAJ provides a valuable insight into the industry and a wealth of information regarding current trends and activity within the market.”

The Award is a pretty good start for the company which was founded just five years ago off the back of Spencer’s long-standing love of gemstones and jewellery. Leaving behind a career in the Royal Navy, followed by a stint in the City, he followed the

siren call of emeralds. “I’ve always been entrepreneurial in sprit and I wanted a change of career,” he explains. “My mother collected jewellery, we had family friends in the industry and a good friend is Anglo-Colombian with family members in the emerald trade which gave me a good route to dealers.

“At London DE we are largely focused on coloured gemstones and in fact nearly all of our marketing, advertising and PR is aimed at coloured gems. But we wanted to place ourselves in a position to cater for all tastes and requirements. Given that diamonds constitute about 95 per cent of the gemstone market, we felt that we could not ignore them and we have also found that some of our most popular designs combine diamonds and emeralds, so we feel that in many ways they complement one another.”

The starting point of London DE was to create a ‘boutique-feel’ business with a strong ethical content. “The millennial generation is much more focused on responsible sourcing and we know exactly which mines our stones come from, who polished the stones etc… it’s a major concern,” Spencer says. “The supply chain

is long and complicated and as suppliers we are keen to do anything that will shorten that chain and have a stake in it. Our aim is to go from mine to market… and everything in between.”

This ambition is clearly facilitated by the fact that London DE’s sister company is HEXA Resources, an integrated emerald mining and exploration business in Colombia. And although most of its connections are currently in South America, London DE’s focus is due to expand to take in Sri Lanka and East Africa. “There’s huge potential for emerald production in Ethiopia, which is an exciting prospect, but there are problems with corruptions there at the moment,” Spencer explains.

While supplying gems kickstarted the company, Spencer established a retail-focused website straight away. With Sam Warricker, a Hatton Garden-based master jeweller as a partner, London DE was able to offer hand-made bespoke jewellery. “We find that Pinterest and Instagram help people decide want they want designed and made.”

So what’s next for London DE? Having successfully completed a round of equity crowdfunding on the Seedrs platform in 2017, it is launching a second round with Seedrs early this year. “The aim of this is to raise £700K (£200K in convertible equity and £500K in equity) in order to boost growth, take on new apprentices and expand our business in the UK and overseas,” Spencer explains. “We are linking this fundraising effort to a marketing, advertising and PR campaign to build brand awareness.” Watch this space…

Award Winning London DE

Once a bridesmaid… and now the bride! In 2017 Hatton Garden-based London DE was shortlisted for the NAJ’s Supplier of the Year Award; this time around the judges sat up and took notice and it took the crown!

43Member ProfileFebruary 2019

The Jewellery AppA new retail jewellery service is coming this year. The Jewellery App is launching a consumer site after the success of the B2B platform, which now has over 700 clients after just five months, 95 per cent of which are retail jewellers.

The new consumer site is an ecommerce marketplace for retail jewellers to sell to consumers. Part of its focus is to tackle the challenges of the high street and the independent jeweller, with services that reconnect them and improve the consumer experience. By looking at how consumers are shopping, The Jewellery App will develop services that put the retail jeweller in front of a consumer, who when making a purchase, uses the site’s main filters, which will be by type of retail jewellery: independent, multiple, luxury, bespoke, fair trade etc.

The platform will also prioritise by location and ensure the store contact details are easy to find. Given that half of all ecommerce transactions globally will take place on marketplaces by 2020, The Jewellery App consumer site will help connect consumers to high street jewellers and increase sales. The business model of The Jewellery App is one of connecting retail jewellers, consumers, the High Street, marketplaces and technology and is one that will drive the trade for years to come.

When the App is launched to both sellers and consumers the company aims to develop further services to engage consumers with not just products but services too. Sellers will be also able to connect to their Facebook store and Instagram from The Jewellery App stock management, so each seller only does the data entry once to sell on multiple channels, a concept that will expand to other channels later in the year. If you don’t have a Facebook account, The Jewellery App is happy to set it all up for you. The platform is free, it only charges per transaction. “It’s our business to sell your stock – if we don’t, it costs you nothing,” explains founder Daren Daniels. www.thejewelleryapp.co.uk

Goldsmiths’ Company – Make Your MarkOn 5th February 2019, London’s Goldsmiths’ Hall will host the UK’s biggest careers event for apprentices, students and graduates of jewellery and allied trades. Since its launch in 2014 Make Your Mark has proved very successful and now the event promises to deliver even more inspiration, advice and networking opportunities.

The free, tutor–student event is open to apprentices, and anyone studying on a UK-based precious-metal-related course (full- or part-time) whether at degree level or on a short adult education or private tutored course.

Led by the Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office and supported by the Goldsmiths’ Company and the Goldsmiths’ Centre, the event will provide a programme of inspiring talks from leading trade figures, live demos, an exhibition of entries into the new Make You Mark Award, careers advice and exhibitor stands.

SIHH And BaselWorld AgreementSIHH and Baselworld have agreed on a significant breakthrough. From 2020, the two major events of the watchmaking industry will synchronise their calendars. In 2020, the SIHH will be held from 26th to 29th April in Geneva, followed immediately by BaselWorld from 30th April to 5th May. The calendars have been synchronised until 2024.

Franck Muller Smells Great!

Designer watch brands that also embrace fragrances are nothing new – from Armani

and Gucci to Guess and Dior, they’re all part of the lifestyle thing. And while diversifying can be good in tough times, it’s unlikely that many jewellers will consider a side-line in mainstream perfumery.

Then along comes something a little unexpected. Luxury Swiss, grand complications watch house Frank Muller has launched a complete collection of unisex perfumes to mark its 25th anniversary. Each of the five fragrances has been inspired by a different timepiece by master perfumers, from the pastel colours of a vibrant dial translating

to uplifting woody, green notes of ‘Color Dreams’ to the sensual, oriental

‘Conquistador’ inspired by the shape of the Contree Curvex watch. All the gold

flacons reflect the distinctive Franck Muller timepiece designs. (210€ - 75ml

franckmullerperfume.com)

44 Industry News The Jeweller

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Valuing jewellery is simple; it’s just like ‘Antiques Roadshow’

The reality: Antiques Roadshow suggests that a cursory glance at a piece of jewellery will tell a valuer all they need to know in order to assign a value; it also implies a valuer carries all neccessary valuation knowledge and tools required inside their head. Really, there’s much behind-the-scenes work involved and jewellery items are carefully inspected by the qualified professionals ahead of filming.

Anyone can value jewellery, formal training or not

The reality: It’s true that anyone can claim to be a valuer, however, there are industry bodies specialising in jewellery valuation and it’s up to the client to choose a suitably-qualified professional.

Members of the Institute of Registered Valuers undertake many years of formal training in gemmology and other specialist areas to become registered, and commit to on-going education while registered to remain up-to-date with industry changes.

Registered valuers may be independent or operate in retail jewellery outlets, but sales people or jewellers are not necessarily valuers.

Two separate valuations on one item should be the same value

The reality: Multiple valuations on the same item can have different value outcomes. The most common type of valuation – retail replacement for insurance – may vary depending on where the item is to be replaced. There are other more complex valuations, like those for probate or private sale, all of which can differ in their end result.

Family jewellery heirlooms are valuable

The reality: Not all old or handed-down jewellery is valuable. Sentimental value and monetary value are two very different things. Great grandmother’s ring with a ‘rare natural alexandrite’; is just as likely to hold a synthetic colour-change sapphire bought in the 1960s.

Megan Austin for Jeweller Magazine (Australia) reveals the truth behind jewellery valuation myths

Jewellery valuations can benefit jewellers and consumers alike; however, misunderstandings exist – valuation schedules and how they’re used have caused industry controversy in recent years. So… a few misconceptions:

ValuationMyth Busters…

46 IRV The Jeweller

Jewellery should always appreciate in value

The reality: It’s a myth that jewellery pieces – diamonds in particular – are investments that will increase in value over time.

Some high-end pieces are bought as investments, but everyday jewellery and diamonds are not considered stable investments. So, jewellery valuations can fluctuate due to changing market conditions, exchange rates, metal prices and fashion fads.

A valuation is how much a piece is ‘worth’

The reality: Valuations should indicate what jewellery is worth, but it’s not always the case – a common complaint from customers who have tried to sell items using an insurance replacement valuation report only to be offered substantially less.

Ultimately a piece of jewellery is ‘worth’ what someone will pay for it. Insurance valuations are not intended to be used to set sale prices.

Valuations vary significantly depending on whether the aim is to establish replacement value, market value or liquidation value. It’s important to convey the valuation’s purpose before the appraisal process begins.

A valuation higher than purchase price = a bargain

The reality: Beware online purchases accompanied by ‘valuation certificates’, especially those from laboratories.

Firstly, internationally-recognised diamond-grading laboratories don’t value diamonds or jewellery; they issue grading reports on stones. Plus, valuations should always be provided by an independent third party. When not, they are often overstated, incorrect or not suited to the local market conditions of the buyer.

Valuations are offered by some online retailers as a sales tool; designed to convince customers that they got a great deal when, in fact, they are possibly even overpaying.

Lab-graded diamonds can be valued without certificates

The reality: For the most accurate valuation possible, all details should be provided to the valuer before the valuation process begins. Withholding documentation can be detrimental to the value conclusion.There are limitations when examining set diamonds; a valuer can never be totally sure of a diamond’s quality unless it’s examined as an unset stone – coloured tints from surrounding metal can impact on perceived colour; claws can hide grade-setting

inclusions etc. The highest grade that an IRV valuer can assign to a set diamond is F-G colour/VS clarity.

Any higher-quality diamond will be undervalued unless a grading report or other documentation is presented. Grades higher than these are impossible to determine accurately without removing the diamond for a detailed inspection.

Myths busted!

So, valuing is a complex profession that requires significant education and on-going training, as well as a good understanding of the jewellery industry and its associated networks. More info at www.naj.co.uk/irv

47IRVFebruary 2019

irmingham-based Craftspace is a craft development charity creating opportunities “to see, make and be curious about exceptional

contemporary craft”. Over the last eight years it has developed Shelanu – a women’s craft collective focused on nurturing design, skills and enterprise in jewellery making with migrant and refugee women.

“For decades Birmingham has thrived owing to the migration of diverse traders and entrepreneurs from within the British Isles and around the world,” explains Figueiredo. “Shelanu, meaning ‘belonging to us’ in Hebrew, enables women to develop craft skills, confidence and well-being through social enterprise. The women have no formal training as jewellers – they learn creative design skills from professional jewellers based in the quarter. Members produce high quality jewellery and objects for sale inspired by the

city, cross cultures and shared experiences of migration.”

Craftspace was particularly interested in the notion of collective making as it demonstrated an alternative approach to the traditional route to the contemporary craft market place. A women’s collective was set-up with migrant and refugee women whereby creating and selling products and sharing skills would also achieve a social purpose; developing skills as well as improving social cohesion, integration, health and well being. A core group of women, naming themselves Shelanu, decided to focus on jewellery.

There is currently a core group of up to eight members, which expands and contracts as individual circumstances allow. Shelanu has a small jewellery studio within Craftspace’s offices and it is seeking funding to develop a more sustainable structure.

Part of Shelanu’s activities include sharing their creative skills by giving workshops in the community and thus benefit more women. Craftspace has recently begun a new project entitled Women’s Maker Movement in which Shelanu will be running workshops for 90 women in three different community centres around Birmingham over the next three years, teaching them to make a collection of jewellery using polymer clay. Craftspace will be providing basic enterprise sessions.

Shelanu product ranges are balanced to achieve different price points, encourage different working methods and “reflect an ethos and narrative”. These include individual one-off pieces and two batch-produced collections. The development of each range was facilitated by different professional makers. They all have a different aesthetic and demonstrate Shelanu’s development as makers and as a collective. They have also undertaken commissions for clients, for example for the Herbert Art Gallery and Museum.

So that the collections are cost effective and can be taught to new members by existing members, each one has an element of batch production with hand finishing. This is following a collective design process by Shelanu members. For instance ‘Migrating Birds’ uses wire cut in the Jewellery Quarter, then hand finished and enamelled by Shelanu members. The ‘Interlocking Stories’ line in silver and gold-plated is cast from a wax mould in the Jewellery Quarter and hand finished by Shelanu members.

The final pieces chosen to make up a collection, are chosen democratically by the group, with support from Craftspace.

There is currently a display of Shelanu’s work in the Artful Expression Gallery in Warstone Lane in the Jewellery Quarter. For more information and to buy Shelanu jewellery visit: www.craftspace.co.uk/about

Shelanu – a Collective Enterprise In 1986 Craftspace was founded by Julia Ellis as a touring exhibition service for contemporary craft. Today, led by Deirdre Figueiredo MBE, it has expanded its scope to create different opportunities and from this Shelanu was born.

B

‘Swallow’ from the Migrating

Birds Collection

48 Industry News The Jeweller

left you in the last issue with the US’s FTC’s decision not to disclose the origin of a ‘non-natural’ diamond. The argument continues,

and it seems there may be a softening in their rhetoric – I’ll keep you posted. In the meantime, advise your clients going to the Caribbean next year to keep their money in their pockets and buy from you instead… safe in the knowledge they will get what they pay for.

Meanwhile, CIBJO’s Pearl Commission outlined the magnitude of misinformation currently circulating on-line; pearls being blatantly described to mislead the consumer. Check CIBJO’s ‘Blue Book’ for all relevant nomenclature. We also heard that there’s pressure, through education, being

I

John Henn continues his report on the Colombia CIBJO Congress.

put on Southern Philippines’ fishermen to stop dynamiting fish! This kills everything around the blast, including the pearl oysters, as far as a kilometer away. Australia, which has some of the most stringent restrictions on pearl farming, is well ahead of the game. With 2,500km of its North West coastline supporting 20 pearl farms, they collect only mature oysters by hand. Now a new initiative between Fiji, Australia, and the Philippines is being planned called the Blue Pledge, which will see them position themselves as stewards of the seas in which they farm.

The Coral Commission is getting all its ducks in a row, albeit at a pace you would expect of the world’s slowest growing crop. There are projects afoot to sink 60kg concrete ‘reef’ farms in suitable clean waters

100m down, with coral seedlings attached, which should thrive for the next generation. A booklet is being worked on to give retail jeweller do’s and don’ts, for coral retailing – in addition to the CIBJO Coral Blue Book, currently being rolled out in another seven languages.

The Coloured Stone Commission is battling with a complete lack of engagement from Asia-based dealers as to what they are doing to their stones. The Commission is on a roll to encourage more and more of them to come onside – a situation, which will be made much easier when they find global retailers and manufactures demand it. More big news is the introduction of Gübelin laboratory’s ‘Proof of Provenance’ scheme –nano-labels 0.0001mm in diameter are applied to rough emeralds at the mine. These labels stay with the stone all the way to the retailer’s window and beyond and come with a QR code report that establishes the complete provenance. To add to this, block chain technology and the stone has a fully-documented ‘paternity’ test and journey schedule to retailers. This is real, and I cannot wait for our industry to enable the costs to be reduced to a degree that my stock of gemstones will have this endorsement. At a stroke we’ll be able to put all unscrupulous operators in a virtual rubbish bin and click ‘Empty’. It may take a generation, but this puts the writing on the wall.

Some more interesting Bogotá facts: no one outside the hotel speaks English… at all; O2 worldwide roaming doesn’t work so when you leave the security of the hotel WIFI you’re on your own; phrase books are vital; UBER is amazing at 10 per cent of the organised taxi rate (don’t get into a regular one – they’re not very nice!).

Colombia may be one of the greatest coffee producing countries in the world but during four days in a five star hotel I didn’t have one cup. I was, however, able to buy three bags of beans via the concierge, and bring them back to the UK, where on the quiet edge of Shropshire on a Sunday morning I was able to grind and drink an eye- watering, tropical rainforest-filled shot of coffee perfection. New Bogotá is lovely although in the grassy spaces quite a few people seemed to be asleep in the sunshine! The suburbs are a reminder of what lies behind the polished newness – bars thick enough to stop an armored car surround every house. Do visit South America, such happy, smiley people, but don’t stray off the ‘track’… www.cibjo.org

Bogatá… and There’s More

49CIBJO Congress 2018February 2019

2O19

The contemporary womenswear trade show, Scoop, held at the iconic Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea, London, takes place on the 10th-12th February.

Among the edit of sought-after fashion and accessory collections and emerging international designers (many of whom select Scoop as their only trade platform) is an ever-growing number of jewellery designers. Welcoming premium independents and department stores from across the globe, visitors have included Harrods, Fortnum & Mason, Bergdorf Goodman, Galeries Lafayette, Fenwick, Harvey Nichols, La Rinascente, Selfridges, Neiman Marcus and Printemps. www.scoop-international.com

Bijoux Hearts

Designer Tracy Graham has been constructing costume jewellery, tiaras, and hair accessories for over 30 years. Handmade in Britain, she works in specialist techniques such as plique-à-jour and hand beading. Each piece is crafted using gemstones and hand-polished metals; many elements are globally-sourced vintage. Each seasonal collection includes one-off couture pieces that may be tailored to customers’ needs.

FL Private Collections

Designer Fotini Liami’s collections celebrate the long and esteemed goldsmithing traditions of her native Greece. Handmade in Greece from gold plated bronze, mixed with leather, linen, and threads, the collection combines strong architectural pieces with organic, artistic styles.

Sibilia

While Sibilia’s jewellery designs typically reference mid-century modern and pre-Columbian art, and more recently Latin American interior design and 1970s enamelled objects. Bold colours and textures created through patination is a signature look she also explores. “I like the uniqueness imprinted on each piece when they are handmade,” says Sibilia. “Sometimes one piece has more than one artisan’s hands involved.”

Alexandrine

Alexandrine is a French fashion jewellery brand offering original design earrings, necklaces and bracelets handmade in its Parisian workshops. Materials include shell and resin for styles that are classic as well as on trend.

Begada

An India-based designer brand, founded by Bhavin Gada, who experiments with designs, exploring new boundaries for his hand-stitched, intricated jewellery and accessories made with Austrian crystal.

Sarah Cavender Metalworks

From their atelier in Alabama, Sarah Cavender and her team create handmade jewellery and accessories in brass mesh, plated with gold, silver and copper. Experts in metal textiles such as mesh, weaving and knotting, they create pieces that are hand painted, oxidised and patinated, bringing unique colour to the base metals.

Narratives The Line

Designed in New York and London by co-founder Susan and Sam, and made in India, Narratives The Line is a bold, bright and celebratory collection of textile accessories and fashion jewellery. Each design stems from an original idea or artwork, progressed and developed in collaboration with expert artisans and emphasis on the unusual and the unexpected, whether in the boldest statements or the tiniest of details.

Scoop


2O19With so very many books on a myriad of jewellery topics – some of them pretty niche – why has it taken so long for the subject of men’s jewellery to be tackled? It’s hardly a modern concept, as numerous maharajas, kings, counts, and dandies would remind us if they were around now to do so. In fact, as this book’s foreword explains, fascination with gems started with men.

But masculine adornment has been rather in the doldrums over the past few decades and is only now – perhaps in the last 10 years – emerging into the spotlight. Sherwood’s book aims to make sure it’s no longer a neglected sector.

Of course, unless there is a major shift in fashion trends, there are some jewelled accoutrements that will never rise to dizzy heights of popularity. Gem-set dress studs and matching cufflinks are not much seen outside of the royal circle; stick pins are as rare on the high street as cravats, and as

double-cuffs are an endangered species, even humble links are on borrowed time.

On the other hand, says Sherwood, look around now and bracelets, pendants, signet rings and even earrings for men have never had it so good. He says, while hip-hop bling may have kickstarted things, it’s increasingly about refinement, especially as style icons and tastemakers are rocking elegant jewellery – particularly on the red carpet.

This beautifully illustrated book tells the story of men’s relationship with jewellery, and while delving into the 20th century archives of key jewellery houses and auction houses it also reveals the contemporary craftspeople who are keeping the art alive.

Each of the six chapters is devoted to a different category of jewel – from rings to chains and pendants – charting the different fashion developments and attitudes and

revealing the craft behind the pieces. There are stunning, detailed images (such as a 1950s 18ct sculpted owl brooch with ruby eyes and platinum talons from Hancocks, Theo Fennells’ 18ct gold, enamel and diamond dress set, and Paul Flato’s diamond and ruby bow and arrow brooch) as well as evocative images of Hollywood stars, past and present, sporting their jewellery with either studied aplomb (Tom Hardy, Jared Leto) or casual insouciance (Steve McQueen, Paul Newman).

Throughout the pages are features on different jewellers, from the major houses such as Cartier and Tiffany, to contemporary British designers Stephen Webster, Solange Azagury-Partridge and Shaun Leane, artist-jewellers Grima, and Wright & Teague. A great resource and inspiring in equal measure.

£29.95 (Thames & Hudson)

Jewelry for Gentlemen by James Sherwood

51Book ReviewFebruary 2019

Taking place on Wednesday 3rd July this year, the awards ceremony is this country’s longest-running – a big night in the jewellery and watch industry’s calendar. The Awards will see individuals and businesses recognised in 20 categories. The UKJA is independently and anonymously judged by a panel of industry experts in a robust judging process, which has been honed and perfected over the last 26 years.

Last year the event attracted close to 700 guests, with this number looking set to rise for 2019, and, as before, NAJ members are able to buy tickets and tables at special discounted rates. The UKJA is also supporting the NAJ’s chosen charity, the

British Jewellery and Giftware Federation Benevolent Society, via a charity casino on the night. But if a little light flutter isn’t your thing, there’s always the (very Instagramable) funfair in the garden.

Once again Clogau has been announced as the headline partner for the 2019 event – it is the Welsh jewellery brand’s sixth consecutive year of headline sponsorship of the Awards. Other sponsors already confirmed Citizen, Hockley Mint and TH March.

The ticket price for the event includes entry, a three-course meal, unlimited alcohol, a charity casino, a funfair and an afterparty with DJ. awards.retail-jeweller.com

UK Jewellery Awards 2019This year marks the fifth consecutive year that the NAJ has been an Official Supporter of the UK Jewellery Awards (UKJA)… and by popular demand the event is returning to The Artillery Garden in the heart of the City of London.

3 July 2019Time: From 6pmVenue: The Artillery Garden at the Honorable Artillery Company Estate, close to Liverpool Street Station, London.

NAJ Prices:£360 per seat. However, those booking half a table (five seats) will be offered an even better rate of £1,775 (equivalent to £355 a seat) or a full table (10 seats) at £3,350 (equivalent to £335 a seat)

NAJ members must be prepared to quote their NAJ membership number at the time of booking.

To buy tickets, contact Rachael O’Rourke on T: +44 (0)20 3953 2114

E: rachael.o’[email protected]

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Multi-Channel Is The New Norm And Marketplaces Lead The Way… Says The Jewellery App’s Daren Daniels

“Despite the alarming closure rates of bricks-and-mortar stores, they play a key role in the sales process for consumers, who still buy over 80 per cent offline. Nevertheless, it’s moving from the primary point of sales to being part of a broader retail strategy. Instead of a single touch point for consumers, the trend in retail over the past few years, and in the years to come, will be multi-channel selling and widening the net to catch buyers wherever they’re shopping.

“Consumers are shopping more on marketplaces than any other type of platform. They are set to be 50 per cent of all global e-commerce by 2020. Multi-channel is vital for captivating new and existing consumers; they’re driving a change in shopping and you need to keep up. It starts from first impressions online to the eventual point of sale in-store. Focusing on providing excellent service across sales channels will pay big dividends.”

Future 100 2019 – Some Emerging Trends From The Innovation Group

“When it comes to consuming, the influences on purchasing decisions are becoming ever more decentralised, personal and visual. Instagram has become integral to trends, shopping, visual language, and culture – all consumers see themselves as brands, curators and creators.” Lucie Greene, worldwide director The Innovation Group JWTIntelligence.com

How to encourage customers to see shopping as an inspiring way to pass the time, rather than merely a transactional experience? The answer could be tapping

into… retail theatre – anything from animation and experiences in stores, to creating broadcast entertainment around covetable goods.

What constitutes an aspirational experience to a younger audience, however, is radically different to the expectations of older generations, who looked for serenity and formality. [Think] digital sharing – with curated, Instagrammable moments at the core.

Consumers expect to see a genuine commitment to the political issues of the day, from gender equality to sustainability and diversity. Call-out culture is not afraid to take on major players and will shop accordingly.

From the new Colour of the Year and trending silhouettes, to multi-channel normality and gold prices… here’s what’s on the horizon for the next 12 months.

2019... The Forecast

Uno de 50

Ntinga

Ananya54 Future Trends

Chris Moore Of Cohesion Digital On Live Chat

“Consumer spending is changing, and the high street is struggling to keep up. A major move in online marketing is the use of AI and Chatbots. But what are they and how can a small company benefit from this technology?

AI Chatbots allow high street retailers to bring the personal service online, without having to be there.

So, imagine:

User: “Hi, I am looking for an engagement ring for my wife.”

The Chatbot identifies the terms ‘engagement’, ‘ring’, and ‘wife’. Based on the programming, it moves into a set funnel of questions, with closed answers.

Chatbot: “What sort of cut stone do you like?”

User: “I like Princess”

The Chatbot moves into its next line of questions.

Chatbot: “Great! Do you like gold, white gold, silver?”

… and so on.

Why is this useful? Well, the fact is, people don’t want to think any more. If they can’t find the product they want from you, they’re not going to search your site to make you a sale. They’ll research on Google, find the results and buy that product.

Having a chat function and bot on your site helps you to engage with your customers the same way you would in-store, answering

queries and converting them to buyers. Think of Chatbots as your on-line customer service team.”

David Brough On The Gold Market

“Gold prices seem poised to rise in 2019, buoyed by scaled-back expectations for US interest rate rises and fears that the world’s biggest economy will slow down, analysts say. For UK jewellers and jewellery manufacturers, risks that the pound will fall further against the dollar, due to chaos over Brexit, could lead to increased costs of restocking dollar-denominated precious metals, diamonds and gemstones.”

Diamonds Are Strong Says WFDB

World Federation of Diamond Bourses’ President Ernie Blom said the diamond and jewellery industries appeared to be heading for a strong end of 2018, according to import and export figures and other recent reports: “Of course, not all the indicators are heading upwards, and the global geopolitical situation can always surprise to the downside. But I believe the overall situation is looking good. We can expect to see good sales results and strong restocking in the coming weeks.”

2019... The Forecast

Gellner

Loose morganite stones at GF Williams

55Future TrendsFebruary 2019

Living Coral – Pantone’s Colour Of The Year 2019

‘Living Coral’, is a coral hue with ‘a golden undertone that enlivens with a softer edge’. For the next year expect to see the warm, feminine, optimistic colour applied to everything from lipstick to curtains.

How about gemstones? Well there’s (antique) coral of course, which won’t always be that particular pinky-orangey shade, bamboo coral (not endangered) and faux coral. Or maybe highlight gems that (more or less) fit the tonal bill, like warmer shades of morganite and Padparadscha sapphires.

Since coral will be leaping off rails in stores from Prada to Primark, you could show gem-set pieces that complement this potentially tricky colour (white pearls, moonstone, white opals… or earthier smoky quartz, tiger’s eye and dark ambers). Alternatively, forget gemstones and simply choose coral-coloured floral window displays.

Hot Off The Global Catwalks

Want to be fashion forward? Consider these jewellery trends – some new, some revisited and some that never went away:

• Hoops – big, bigger and biggest – and hoop variations

• Chunky gold• Chandelier and shoulder-skimming

earrings • Bold colour • Statement necklaces• Oversizing• New pearl pieces• Arm candy – strong cuffs• Glammed-up chokers• Return of classics like tennis bracelets• Lariat necklaces• Homespun looks• Sentiment and personalisation – like

keepsake necklaces • Signet rings and pinky rings

Howard Saunders – The Retail Futurist

This excerpt from Saunders’ end-of-2018 blog offers an optimistic full stop on what has been a pretty gloomy year.

“Left to market forces, our high streets will continue to collapse in upon themselves, helped along by big name closures such as HoF, Debenhams and M&S. But once we have the optics of M&S boarded up for a year or two, rents and rates will plummet so that clever, hungry young independents might actually get a chance to kick-start a revival of our beleaguered towns.

“If we cannot wait for market forces to take their toll, then government action on rents and rates might catalyse things. Mike Ashley’s 20 per cent online tax would certainly drive us away from Amazon, but added to VAT, are we really encouraging the

government to tax us 40 per cent? We would certainly live to regret that.

“The good news is coming, but not for a few years yet. However dreadful things look at the moment, I’m convinced the market square, and all that brings with it, will be back with a vengeance. This time the authorities will understand they must massage and manage their high streets just like a successful shopping centre: taxing profits when times are good, supporting with investment and marketing when times are bad, sculpting their spaces with brands that work in harmony with each other (rather than plonking down the first shop that offers the most rent), encouraging start-ups and quirky one-offs because they add to the overall mix and the vision of what we want from our town centres. Yes, retail is a full-time job.”(www.22and5.co./blog/)

Pugata

Kohinoor

Sif Jakobs

Carved pink opal at GF Williams

56 Future Trends The Jeweller

Book now at naj.co.uk/whitby

From a mere seaside souvenir, to being worn by some of Europe’s most important and influential women, Jet is a gemstone with a very intriguing history.

Take part in our two day course and:

• Understand how Jet is formed

• Learn about the history of the Jet trade• Identify Jet from other common Victorian and modern simulants• Beachcomb for Jet• Fashion, shape and polish Jet.

This fully interactive and jam-packed course promises to leave you bursting with knowledge about this unique gemstone.

WHEN

WHERE

COST

8th – 9th March 2019

Museum of Whitby Jet,Church Street, Whitby, N.Yorks

NAJ Members £249 + VAT Non Members £349 + VAT

JETTINGTO WHITBY!TO WHITBY!

8428 Jetting to Whitby Ad_A4_AW.indd 1 08/01/2019 10:40

uring London Fashion Week Facets PR (winner of the NAJ’s Service Provider 2018 award), is hosting The London Jewellery Showroom (18th-19th February) in partnership with The Sunday Times. In support of the

prestigious event – which made its debut last year – the NAJ will host a VIP evening reception for its members on Monday 18th. The pop-up curated designer jewellery showroom within the John Pye luxury showroom on Old Bond Street, is being promoted to the newspaper’s readers as well as to the trade.

UK and International fine jewellery brands taking part include Sarah Zhuang Fine Jewellery, Dulong Fine Jewellery, Natalie Perry, Maria Kotsoni and Jewels of Queensland. A series of masterclasses will be held at the event, including seminars from jewellery and gemstone experts who will be speaking on a range of subjects, from gemmology to fashion trends, and interactive jewellery workshops for consumers.

To attend the event, please contact Sarah Carpin on: [email protected].

D

New York and London DesignThis busy exhibition season offers numerous opportunities to discover new design talent… on both sides of the pond.

Tina Engell (NY NOW)

Rina Tairo (NY NOW)

Alison Evans (NY NOW)

Jewels of Queensland

58 Show Previews The Jeweller

For a number of years, the British Allied Trades’ Federation has offered financial assistance to designer members of British Jewellery & Giftware International to exhibit at NY NOW in New York City (3rd-6th February). This year the eight participating designer makers are: Alison Evans, Grainne Morton, Jenny Llewellyn, Phillippa Kunisch, Tina Engell, Alex Monroe, Melissa McArthur and Rina Tairo.

“It’s a great show to meet people from around the US – it has a good vibe with serious buyers,” explains Alison Evans. “This year I’m bringing new pieces to create a really cohesive collection. It’s all about subtle luxury – my chainmail jewellery is modern but never brash. I’ve introduced some hidden magic – earrings and necklaces that glimmer with gold underneath their titanium links.”

Having recently returned to wholesale, Rina Tairo has exhibited multiple times at NY NOW. “This has proven a good way to re-introduce our brand and we have acquired several new accounts in North America as well as received an invitation to take part in a prestigious fine jewellery event last spring,” she says.

“Showing at NY NOW is a great adventure, offering a huge exposure to a much wider market,” adds Tina Engell. “It attracts visitors coming from all over, and I have made good contact at smaller boutiques. This time I will be bringing the whole collection of precious jewellery – the design and style is simple and often described as timeless, using huge pearls, and brightly coloured gemstones.”

batf.uk.com/en/international

New York and London DesignRina Tairo (NY NOW)

Natalie PerryMaria Kotsoni (NY NOW)

Sarah Zhuang

59Show PreviewsFebruary 2019

The ‘Fashion’ sector (apparently ‘the UK’s largest edit of jewellery and accessories’) was further divided into specialist areas, which this year includes MR. – a new showcase for fashion and lifestyle brands ‘that embody the modern man’.

With the menswear market set to outperform womenswear globally by 2020 (says Top Drawer) MR. was developed in

response to industry demand and presented the ‘UK’s most dynamic’ display of design-led accessories, jewellery, grooming and lifestyle products for gents. Among the names signed were (NAJ member) Anchor & Crew, Arne Jacobsen Watches, Wild & Wolf, Thomas Clipper and Ted Baker.

A complimentary trail, aptly named the MR. Lifestyle Trail, was designed to guide buyers

Top Drawer 2019 ‘A global edit of the very best products across the lifestyle spectrum’, Top Drawer earlier this month covered 11 curated sectors, from ‘Home’ and ‘Food’ to ‘Fashion’ and ‘Craft’… and everything in between.

through a mens’-focussed edit of curated products and key exhibitors. For other buyers it was a last-minute chance to source potential Valentine’s gifts, such as AneMi’s sweet, stackable ‘billing’ bird rings.

Within the Fashion sector was ‘Capsule’, a showcase of timeless conceptual jewellery and accessory brands such as Sibilia Buenos Aires, Pink Powder, Vanile on The Rock, Eduards Accessories, Narratives the Line and Dukley Jewelry. The UK Jewellery Collections presented a selection of designers who design and make in the UK, among them: Shyla London, Black & Sigi, Esa Evans, Esoteric London and Cabbage White England.

Among the NAJ members showing was Martick Jewellery, which unveiled a new

bee and pearl range showcasing its heritage in flora and fauna, plus a

classic design incorporating fresh water pearls, with an edgy twist.

“For 2019 pearls are as edgy as they are classic,” says

designer Lisa Saunders.

www.topdrawer.co.uk

Anchor & Crew

Martick JewelleryMy Doris

AneMi

60 Show Report The Jeweller

7th - 9th April 2019www.bctf.co.uk

Extraordinary British design-led jewellery

International speaker, broadcaster, mind reader and entertainer, David Meade, will be the keynote speaker at the next CMJ trade event in February.

Fast becoming one of Europe’s leading speakers, David Meade has cut himself a niche in the corporate market with his ‘boundless’ energy and ‘electrifying’ delivery on aspects from what makes consumers tick to the psychology behind how they think, feel and act.

Terry Boot, chief executive of CMJ, said: “Our events are a great opportunity for our members to network, meet with suppliers and share knowledge. Likewise, it gives us a better understanding of the daily challenges and aspirations they have. However, it’s important for all of us to take a step back every now and then, and look outside of

our own environments and comfort zones. David will give us exactly that.

“His understanding of how consumers make decisions, coupled with his academic research and unquestionable ability to captivate a crowd, is something to behold. I’d encourage our members to sign up so as not to miss this opportunity.”

Meanwhile, in the three halls of the show itself, buyers will be able to view new collections unveiled by jewellery and watch exhibitors. As ever, the NAJ will be showcasing a group of designer members, such as Vixi Jewellery, which will be showing the new ‘Lace Collection’ in sterling silver and zirconia. Also introduced will be the new fine jewellery VIXI Diamonds, comprising three collections of 18ct gold and diamond pieces – wearable everyday

CMJ SpringTrade Event

Meeting suppliers, networking… and entertaining insights. The forthcoming CMJ event promises it all.


jewellery with a strong bridal jewellery appeal. Founder/designer Victoria Smith will also promote VIXI Design, a service to create unique jewellery collections and bespoke items for jewellers under their own branding and name.

Elsewhere in the hall Ungar & Ungar will show its natural ‘Earthly Treasure’ ring, featuring individually certified coloured diamonds and matching earrings. Also unveiled will be some very fine spacer bands and the popular baroque earring collection.

The passion for pearls – especially when sitting alongside diamonds – is a continuing trend and Samuel Jones Pearls will introduce glamorous 18ct drop South Sea pearl and diamond earrings, as well as re-imaginings of classic 9ct lines, lower price pieces and new PoS material.

Ntinga continues to grow its rose cut sapphire collection, with more colours available, and new pendants and earring pieces. It will also be showcasing new pieces in its popular cabochon range with new gemstone shapes and new colour stones and an extended range of unusual gemstones, bespoke- made into finished jewellery.

Andrew Geoghegan will introduce the latest member of the sought after Satellite family – the ‘Satellite Diamond Pear’ in platinum with 0.55ct centre stone. The original ‘Satellite Brilliant’ was followed by emerald cut and princess cut versions. The ‘Pear’ adds a quirky edge to the collection with the satellite pear in reverse.

Curteis will be showcasing the new ‘Heritage’ silver range – a contemporary slant on the Curteis classics. Stylised padlocks and T-bars adorn handmade bracelets, necklaces and bangles. Accompanied by earrings, lockets and pendants. The stylish padlock-style pendants have enough space for an engraved initial, to create a truly personalised piece.

Gemex, which will be showing its latest, award-winning fine engagement and eternity ring collections, as well as diamond

set wedding bands, is offering a special promotion for CMJ members – spend £5,000 + VAT and pay at the end of July 2019!

Following the success of its ‘Les Essentielles’ collection of metal bracelets with interchangeable coloured bands, Les Georgettes has expanded its offer to include rings, pendants, earrings and chain bracelets using the same personalised system. And adding an extra touch of glamour is ‘Les Precieuses’ set with CZ stones.

Picchiotti’s most recent pieces from the Xpandable™ Collection will include the radiant bracelet and twin ring, three-dimensionally set in emerald-cut, baguette and round diamonds – stunning looks with comfortable, durable wear guaranteed by the strength of the Xpandable™ patent-pending technology.

In addition to 2018’s best sellers, Amore is adding 100 new lines for both the silver and gold collections. Designed in-house, the line will include styles ranging from plain gold earrings and pendants to unusual diamond set pieces with 20pts in each to celebrate Amore’s 20-year anniversary this year.

CMJ’s trade event takes place at The Hilton Birmingham Metropole, on Sunday 17th and Monday 18th February.

1 Vixi Jewellery2 Ungar & Ungar3 Curteis4 Ntinga5 Andrew Geoghegan6 Amore7 Les Georgettes8 Samuel Jones Pearls 9 Gemex 10 Picchiotti

63Show Preview

Many years ago I purchased my first decent watch, a Rolex Submariner. Thereafter, I devoured lots of information relating to fine timepieces. Eventually, I bought another watch… then more – without realising it, I’d become a serious watch collector.

Over the years, I’ve added to my collection, visiting numerous retailers globally. Largely my shopping experience has been enjoyable, however, occasionally the service I’ve received has fallen short of expectations. Sadly, it’s those latter encounters I recall.

‘Consumer sovereignty’… put simply this means ‘satisfying the wants of the final consumer’. It’s only by offering a holistic retail experience that a store can hope to meet the needs of customers and continue to prosper. So here are some of my thoughts based on my experience as an avid watch collector.

First impressions

First impressions matter when retailing high-end timepieces. A well-presented window display is the best means of enticing customers. It should therefore be treated with due reverence. A dusty, neglected and dimly-lit window display will immediately repel many would-be clients.

There should be a sense of occasion when showcasing luxury timepieces. The

window should contain sufficient stock to be interesting, with no gaps on stands and adequate space to allow each product to breathe. Luxury is about exclusivity – the ‘pile them high and sell them cheap’ model isn’t appropriate.

‘Pre-owned’ has become a popular brand for many retailers. However, while the watches may be used, they should not cheapen the retailer’s reputation. Only display those watches you’re proud to sell. Ideally, a dedicated, branded stand should be used to display pre-owned watches together. If the watch comes with ‘box and papers’, indicate this, it will be of vital importance to a collector.

A well-lit showroom augments the allure of watches. Check lights daily – defunct bulbs don’t create the best impression. This attention to detail is conducive to sales.

Staff should be friendly but not pushy, ideally making eye contact and courteously proffering help. They should not appear aloof or superior – not all prospective purchasers will be paragons of sartorial elegance.

The best sales staff should be able to point out a watch model’s complications and the finishing of the movement, especially if hand-executed. It’s hard to justify the additional expense of a high-value watch without a comprehensive understanding of its features and benefits.

A destination

Do all brands held generate profit? Does a store offer a selection of brands seldom

seen within the immediate vicinity and outlying regions? As an avid collector of various brands, I’m drawn to retailers stocking some of the more unusual ones. I’ve been known to travel great distances to physically see a particular watch brand, like Nomos Glashütte and Parmigiani Fleurier. Sometimes there’s merit in deviating from the well-trodden path. It’s by offering a varied and unusual selection that a retailer will have a point of differentiation, attracting potential clients from a wide geographic area.

Rising to the challenge

Although I’m a long-standing ‘watch collector’, I’m also a businessman, marketing consultant and watch industry adviser. I’m aware of the challenges facing today’s watch retailers. I’m mindful that some watch companies insist on retailers holding greater inventories, only stocking certain brands and demanding an increased window presence at the exclusion of others. Furthermore, some watch companies are also in competition, opening more mono-branded stores and/or selling online to consumers. Also, many high streets are suffering a downturn in footfall – retailing is facing challenging times.

Some retailers will flourish by overcoming challenges and delivering a unique shopping experience. Others will be unable or unwilling to rise to the challenge of this hostile commercial environment. Consumer sovereignty… those embracing this customer-led approach to commerce are more likely to thrive in the future.

www.escapementmagazine.com

Consumer Sovereignty and the Retail Experience

Watch collector Angus Davies of Escapement Magazine tells it like it is.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950

64 Opinion The Jeweller

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What happens in a JBN meeting?

The best way to answer this question is to describe our last round of regional meetings, held last Autumn. As always, the agenda is prepared by an independent facilitator based on members’ requirements – which are often flagged by current debates in the members forum or specifically requested at previous meetings.

The meetings started with a review of the educational store visits. Each store host relayed back what they did or didn’t do with the feedback following the regional group visit to their store… in fact one member refurbished his entire store following a visit and won an industry award for it:

“I doubt the level of expertise, comments and recommendations for business improvement would be available anywhere else in the UK – no matter how much money one may be tempted to throw at business advisors. The educational store visit was priceless for me and I hope all who came got something back as well.”

Then it’s over to individuals providing five-minute updates on their business highlights and issues since we last met: what’s working, what’s not, the issues and opportunities faced. Plenty of time is built in to allow discussion and comments the group feels is relevant and the recipient feels is helpful.

“The breadth of experience is astounding. Whatever issue is raised, there’s at least one person who has had to deal with the same themselves and more usually several different approaches to solving a problem.”

Other topics covered included current trading updates and plans for Christmas activities – over the past four years we’ve collated and shared a list of 96 promotional Christmas ideas that have worked for members. This was followed by a GDRP status update, a review of the Summer Congress and a discussion on topics members wanted on the agenda for Congress 2019 (Tuesday 11th June, 2019).

A one-hour lunch is factored in – aside from eating and responding to urgent calls, texts and emails, it’s a great time to go off-agenda, and invest time in old and new friendships.

“The totally confidential forum is a good place to talk about business issues and share solutions that you wouldn’t openly discuss. The breadth of experience and openness is second to none.”

The afternoon sessions usually include a topic relevant to members’ Continuous Professional Development; this time Range Management was discussed. The Times had just reported “more than £90m of Burberry products have been destroyed over the past five years” despite having “careful processes

in place to minimise the amount of excess stock we produce”. A 2016 JBN survey flagged this as an issue with a third of all retail jewellery stock being three or more years old.

Surveys are a valuable source of reliable and relevant information for members; the latest shared dealt with marketing effectiveness – how much members spend, what they spend it on, where they spend it and with what results. Quite simply this type of information is priceless for running a business – it can save you money and make you money.

Why can’t guests attend the meetings?

The JBN is built on the values of trust, respect, openness and confidentiality – in short; what’s shared in the room stays in the room.

The continued success of the Network comes from the fact that every member has not only committed financially (via subs) but personally, through a willingness to share knowledge, experience and expertise with other members in a confidential and safe environment. Lasting relationships and friendships develop.

The ideal forum for guests to come and experience the JBN is attendance at Congress, a route taken by many of our members and will be on Tuesday June 11th this year – we hope to see you there.

www.naj.co.uk/jet-business-network

JBN Still Delivering Retail Value After All These Years! Answers to the two most frequently asked questions of the Jet Business Network – now entering its 14th year, making it the most established and effective network in the industry.

• Monthly Performance Reports - enabling you to benchmark your business against other retail jewellers

• Online Q&AForum – whether you have a business issue or just seek guidance. You ask the question and the members answer

• Educational Store Visits – allow you to see and hear what other jewellers are doing

• Regional Group Meetings – to discuss the issues and opportunities they face, as well as develop new business skills

• New Flash Service – receive relevant business and Industry articles straight to your inbox

• Member Business Surveys – on topics identified by the members

• Plus the opportunity to influence and shape the content of the Annual Oxford Congress

• For further information visit the NAJ website or call Michael Donaldson on: 07817 305 122 or email: [email protected]

For an annual subscription of £850, you and your business will benefit from the shared knowledge, experience and expertise of the JBN – Retail via:

66 Jet Business Network The Jeweller

2

You will have to keep your VAT records digitally and submit your VAT returns electronically. You will no longer be able to manually enter your VAT returns.

You may have left it to your accountant to handle. You might have all your sales and purchases in a form that can be imported into an accounts package.

But does it create all the information you need?

Information such as.... § Calculating VAT correctly on Deposits

(especially if changed mid-purchase) § Calculating VAT correctly on Credit Notes § Calculating VAT correctly on Second-hand processes,

such as assembled items, repairs and margin-scheme § Calculating VAT correctly on Antiques § Calculating VAT correctly on Private Treaty § Catering for EU purchasers § Producing Intrastat reports for HMRC

If the answer to any of these is no, then talk to us about an integrated solution for your stock management and accounts, with a digital interface to the HMRC Making Tax Digital portal.

It will save you and your accountant time and money,

From April, you will need to submit your VAT return digitally

The jewellery-specific stock management system with

integrated accounts

Your Technology Partner � � 01442 256445 www.bransom.co.uk �

are you ready for digital VAT submissions?

Say hello to the Noble team at the Jewellery & Watch show, NEC hall 18 - stand 18Q15Tel (44) 0208 805 4111 - Fax (44) 0208 805 6555 - Email [email protected] - Web www.noblepack.com

INTRODUCING OUR NEW DISPLAY SYSTEM FOR 2019FROM NOBLE GIFT PACKAGING,

WITH OVER 100 DIFFERENT DISPLAY, MATERIALS & COLOURS TO CHOOSE FROM.

Step #1

Choose your display components

Step #2Select your material finish Step #3Pick your colour scheme

SEE IT FI

RST AT T

HE

NEC JEWELL

ERY & WAT

CH SHOW

HALL 18

- STA

ND 18Q15

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