quartz - American Watchmakers – Clockmakers Institute

THINLINE

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QUARTZ Clock Movement

ACTUAL SIZE

DIMENSIONS: 2-3/16 inches squr:~re x 5/8 inch thick. Center post diameter only 5/8 inch. This new design provides quartz accuracy for the smallest clocks. The works can be enclosed within a case less than 3/4 inch thick.

ACCURACY: Within±10 seconds per month.

BATTERY: Runs over a year on a standard "AA" penlight battery, and much longer on the alkaline type.

SECOND HAND SETTING: Time can be set to the exact second. Second hand, if used, advances at precise one second intervals.

HANDS: Hands illustrated are supplied in polished brass or black finishes. Hole sizes are standardized for all M80 series battery cloc-<: movements; other styles available.

M81 M81A M88

M81 Step Second Quartz Movement - 2 year guarantee.

M81A Continuous Second Quartz "Power House" Movement

available regular and long post- 2 year guarantee. M88 New Thin and Compact Quartz Movement - 1 year

guarantee.

ALL THREE MOVEMENTS AT THE SAME PRICE. Assorting allowed.

Prices include Brass or Black Finish Hands, Nuts, and Hangars. 1 or 2 3 to 9 10 to 24

$8.50 each $7.50 each $7.00 each

Hour and Minute Hands Included Add $.25 Each for Second Hands

25 @ $6.25 each 100@ $5.75 each

Add $1.50 per order for shipping to 48 states.

Copyright© 19 7 9. Reproduction in whole or part without express written permission of the Cas-Ker Co. is prohibited.

OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE

VOLUME3,NUMBER10 OCTOBER, 1979

LESLIE L. SMITH 4 THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE A WI to Publish New Booklet

FRED S. BURCKHARDT 8 THE ROCK QUARRY Cubic Zirconia and other Diamond Substitutes, Part II

MILTON C. STEVENS 14 AWl NEWS

EDUCATION-28 SEAN C. "PAT" MONK 16 ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR 30-Hour, English Longcase, Rope-Operated, Single Weight, with Unusual Hour Strike Mechanism

DEPARTMENTS Our Readers Write I 6

HENRY B. FRIED 20 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Bench Tips I 4 7 Too Old to be a Grandmother

New Members I 54 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING Book Review I 55 JOSEPH RUGOLE 28 News in the Trade I 56 Advisory Committees: Important Segments

New Products I 58 of our Educational System

Classified Ads I 60 ARCHIE B. PERKINS 30 TECHNICALLY WATCHES

Dates to Remember I 62 Watch Cases and Their Accessories A WI Bench Courses I 63 Advertisers' Index I 64 JOSEPH RUGOLE 36 WATCH ADJUSTMENTS

HISTORY-44 MARVIN E. WHITNEY 40 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER Making a Detent, Part II

ORVILLE R. HAGANS 44 IN THE SPOTLIGHT The Collection of Harry H. Blum

OTTO BENESH 48 CLOCK CHATTER The Calendar Ring

ROBERT F. BISHOP 50 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN The High Cost of Material

Horological Times ISSN0145-9546 is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers Institute, Harold]. Herman, Editor, 3 700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without permission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Subscription, $30.00 per year, $4.00 per copy in the United States and $36.00 per year, $5.00 per copy outside the United States. Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. Copyright© 1979 by the American Watchmakers Institute.

So very many watchmakers and clockmakers seem to find complete pleasure in a job well done; in fact, their pleasure seems to escalate with a job done better than actually required regardless of the time involved. Nothing but praise can be given these artisans who expend extra effort to present a timepiece to a customer that will operate better than when it came out of the factory. The pat on the back, the accolades presented to them seem to satisfy thei'r palates.

The sad part of an activity that seems to be so fulfilling is that the job is only half done. This person who is so skilled in technicalities and dexterity, filling his or her own needs, sometimes forgets those who depend upon his or her ability to satisfy their actual needs; namely the spouse and children.

Understand your operating costs, material costs, supply costs and the percentage mark-ups needed to put you in the tax bracket that you deserve.

If you think you need help, consult a counselor at your nearest college or university. If you can offer help or advice, read "The President's Message" on page four and give serious consideration to sharing your insights with other members of AWl.

About the Co.ver

On our October cover, two Whistling Swans glide across a placid lake amid the vibrant colors of autumn in New England.

2 Horological Times/October 19 79

Executive and Editorial Offices AWl Central P.O. Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838

Harold]. Herman: Editor Thomas J. Herman: Managing Editor Virginia C. Montgomery: Associate Editor

LuAnn Martin: Art Director Sue Scott: Business Manager

Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager Lee Rothan: Circulation

Technical Editors:

Otto Benesh James H. Broughton Fred S. Burckhardt Joe Crooks Paul Fisk Henry B. Fried Orville R. Hagans Ewell D. Hartman Gerald G. Jaeger Sean C. Monk Robert A. Nelson Archie B. Perkins

A WI Officers:

Joseph Rugole Leslie L. Smith William 0. Smith, Jr. James L. Tigner Marvin E. Whitney

Leslie L. Smith, CMW, CEWS: President Joe Crooks: 1st Vice President Karl Buttner, CMW: 2nd Vice President Charles H. Mann: Secretary Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC: Treasurer

A WI Directors:

Dorothy M. Aderman Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D. James H. Broughton, CEWS Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC Ewell D. Hartman, CMW Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS Donald W. Leverenz, CMW Sean C. Monk, CMW" Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS Eric R. Samuel, CMW

Robert F. Bishop: Affiliate Chapter Director

Joseph Rugole, CMW: Research and Education Council Chairman

Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

YOU SAVE AT ,fMARSHALL- ~WARTCHILD EVERY TIME! THE FIRST PLACE-- THE BEST PLACE-- TO SHOP FOR VALUES

for the MODERN

WATCHMAKER A BIG, NEW,

AFFORDABLE BOOK

REPAIRING QUARTZ LED, LCD AND ANALOG WATCHES has a section on each, another on testing instruments. It gives detailed analysis and expert advice on repairing the main calibres and modules currently in use. 180 illustrated pages and 300 diagrams, tables and photographs make it an indispensable problem-solver for the Watchmaker who must provide after-sales service for these watches, millions of which are now in use. 0 No. BS 3.Reg. $31.25 SPECIAL INTRODUCTORY

PRICE $27.50.

L.E.D. WATCHES- Push-button, with rubyred-screen time/date-display

~..,,.. ' I :

I I I :1 .~

Bargains for parts and practice work- stoppers, but every watch has all parts. $2.50 each, any quantity.

Running models, for resale - a very good buy at just $9.95 each. In lots of 5 or more, $8.45 each.

D Send _L.E.D. Stoppers, #llX,@ $2.50 each

D Send _Running L.E.D.s, #IX,@$_ each

NOW-L.E.D. AND L.C.D. BECOME Q.T.R.-QUICK TO REPAIR. M-S MAKES IT EASY! We predicted a lower price on L.E.D. Modules. Now we offer it.

SuMcTuUETHFRS" • ., en n ~ n LED Universal Replace· • .- • u u I;. - ment Module replaces old • .. II DATE module; no other ever

needed. Fits any case 25 mrn or larger, even "thin"

cases. Conductive and non-conductive spacers or rings adjust for case diameter and tolerance variations. All pre· pack components soldered individually on ceramic baseno fragile wire bonds. Full, easy-to-follow directions.

Regular price was $17.50, without batteries. Now it's reduced: One sample kit, with 2 new cells, only $10.95, complete with 3 all-different-size spacers, 2 metal transfer strips, 2 thermo plastic shrink rings. In lots of 3, only $9.95 each.

D Send I MOD 25mm@ $10.95 D Send __ lots of 3 @ $9.95 each.

KIT SYSTEM 15 services over 90% of makes of L.E.D. and L.C.D. Watches. 15 Modules - you save $51. Or buy individually at Unit Price shown below.

L 0 M<Hitl Typ< Functio-n Thickness Oi &malt r Boll<ry Switch Pos. Unit Price 23 Gem 2 line Alarm 6 . 1 mm 29. 1 mm 393 2-3·4·8·10 36 00 31 Unisex s 6 .1 mm 25 .3 mm 393 2-3-4 19 00 41 Gcnl 6-Solar 61 mm 291 mm IOSL 18 2-3·4 32 00 5K Gent 6-Chrono 5. 1 mm 29 I mm 2x392 2·3·4-10-9 32 00 6A Lady 4.6 mm 20,2 rnm 392 2-3-4 20 00 8' Gent 6-Solar 4 ~8 mm 29Ll mm 10 SL 18 2-3-4 32 00 98 Unisex 4.6 mm 25 .3 mm 392 I :30-3-4:30 19 .00 lOB Gent 5 Big Di£il 5 . 1 mm 29 I mm 2x392 2-3-4 24 ,00 15A Gent 6 Alarm 4 8 mm 29 I mm 2x392 2-3·4·8 36.00 150M Gent 6 4. 8 mm 29 l mm 2x392 2-3·4·8 22 00 178 Lady 5 B1g Digit 5 I mm 20.2 rnm IOL 122 2-3·4 24.00 LED Model

L-1 Lady 5.6 mm 20.2 mm 2x392 2:30-4:30 12 .50 L-2 Lady 5.2 rnm 20 2 mm 2x392 3-4 12 50 DUS 2 Unisex 6. 1 mm 25.3 mm 2x386 2-3 12 .50 DTI Gent 6 7. 1 rnm 29.2 rnm b.)$6 2:J(J.) 12.50

D Send __ SYSTEM 15- 15 Digital Modules - ind ividual itemstO!al $346.00. S<~ving SS 1.00 @ $295 complete. D Send individual items checked in "Unit Price" column, above.

ORDER BY PHONE. TOLL-FREE. WEEKDAYS. 9 - 4. CHICAGO- contains #340.205 Tweezers, #350.155 scoop. . TIME: IN ILLINOIS - 800-972-3776. ALL OTHER STATES #117 .436 Tool for spring bars,

ELECTRONIC WATCH REPAIR TOOL KIT ~

[EXCEPT ALASKA. HAWAIIJ-800-621-4767. ORDER BY MAIL :~~~:;~; ~~~:~~:v~:~~M., _.,350_190 . - --=.' -P.O. BOX 716. CHICAGO. IL 60690. OR VISIT ONE OF OUR Trimming Tool- SALE_ ALL FOR 34.95 . .;=---= OFFICES. D ___ No. ~10.~16 Tool Kit(s)@ 34.95 =---•

.fflARSHALL -~ WARTCH I LD 2040 Milwaukee Ava .. Chicago. IL 60647 - 312/278-2300

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Quick credit 10 accounts well rated by either Dun & Bradstreet or Jewelers Board of Trade

Name

Firm --------------------

Address

City-State-ZiP-------- ---------

October 1979/Horological Times 3

By Leslie L. Smith, CMW, CEWS

AWl to Publish New Booklet Since its inception, the American Watchmakers Institute has dedicated itself to the betterment of the watchmaker, providing technical information and services second to none. This assistance has helped the watchmaker to maintain his professional status and reputation in the community he serves. That's how it sho~ld be and we are very proud of the accomplishments of AWl over the past twenty years. We can confidently say that no stone has been left unturned in helping our members-except perhaps one.

The endless hours a watchmaker spends keeping up with watchmaking changes and perfecting his skills are somewhat wasted unless proper compensation is received for his work.

I often state in my workshops, when someone brings up the subject of prices, that most customers do a better job on the watchmaker than he does on the customer. That is to say, he is often scared out of getting a proper price for a job well done with such statements as, "I don't want to spend much; if it costs too much I'll just buy another watch," or, "I didn't spend much for the watch, therefore I don't want to put very much into it." Sometimes their reasoning is correct, but often they know that if they make such statements, it tends to have an effect on what they might have to pay for the repair.

Getting the price deserved according to the work done requires a skill quite different from that necessary to do the work. The art of selling repairs must be developed and practiced as diligently as those at the bench.

This is an area that perhaps has been neglected to some extent by AWl, but not overlooked. For the past several years we have asked different people to put together a good

program on selling or merchandising services. Efforts have been put forth in an attempt to make this a reality, but so far we have been unsuccessful and the reason is simple: It's a very difficult job. No one person could do justice to such an extensive undertaking. For that reason, we are calling on the wealth of talent among our members, asking them to participate in the program and hopefully put together a booklet titled Merchandising Services. Once compiled, it will be sent to all members for study and use.

We don't expect you to do the final assembling and editing of this material; only put down your selling ideas and concepts in a somewhat orderly manner and we will do the work of fitting it together in reference book format. All contributors will receive honorable mention in the booklet for their assistance.

We want to know such things as workshop location and layout for best effect; certificates displayed; how best to approach the customer; comments you might make to develop a receptive attitude toward having the work done and paying a proper price for it (no prices please); how the estimate is handled; the length of time to do the work; the kind of guarantee given; how to get the customer to pick up unclaimed repairs; how comebacks are handled; etc.

Anything you think would be of value to this publication should be submitted. We will publish everything you send that we feel is of value. However, we must reserve the right to edit the material. This is an opportunity for you to share with your fellow watchmakers your expertise in selling repairs, so start putting together your ideas and mail them in as soon as possible.

Please send your ideas to AWl Central, Dept. 707, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Oi1io 45211.

Be a Contributor! Send your ideas to AWl Central, Dept. 707, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

4 Horological Times/October 1979

The One Multi-Function Timing Instrument That Does It AIL

L'lnstrument is an appropriate name1or the unique new Vibrograf MU-700. For the MIJ-700 is truly the ultimate watch tester. It measures the rate, beat and amplitude of all mechanical watches, as well as the ra:te of all quartz and electronic watches. And it does it with an accuracy exceeding that of the most advanced quartz watches made.

The superiority of L'lnstrument, with its broad range of capabilities and extr1:me accuracy, Is the result of many year-s of research and development, combin'ed with the mos~ saphisticatei:IIC (integrated circuit} technology in the watch repair industry.

But as sophisticated as its circuitry is, L'lnstrument is simple to operate. Two sensors ( microphonic holder 1 stands) eliminate the need for probes and special attachments. One sensor is used for all mechanical watches and the other is used for all quartz and electronic watches.

Even monitoring measurements on L'lnstrument is simplified. Six graduated direct reading LED scales (the latest in meter technology) enable "at-a-glance" exact readings to be made. And selection

-- ---of scales and functions is push-button simple, too. WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN TO YOU?

For the first time, watchmakers can have at their command a single instrument that performs all watch testing functions formerly requiring up to four different test and/or measurement machines.

Now, we're not about to suggest that you discard your newly purchased or functioning analyzer, gradoscop or timer and replace them with the Vibrograf MU-700.

However, if you don't presently have these instruments to perform the appropriate test functions, wouldn't it be wise to invest in L'lnstrument? The one instrument that does it all.

Or, if your present test equipment is unreliable, inaccurate, or too old to be useful on today's sophisticated watches, Portescap's liberal Trade-In Program can help you upgrade your test facilities with L'lnstrument.

And with Portescap's easy payment plans, there's no need for any large cash outlays. You can select a plan that best suits the needs of your business. FREE IN-STORE DEMONSTRATION

At Portescap, we've updated an old axiom: "One demonstration is worth several thousand words and pictures." We're prepared to set-up a working demonstration on your premises, at your convenience, with no obligation or strings attached. All you have to do is call your local Vibrograf salesman, or (516) 437-8700 now.

Portescap U.S. incabloc®~ VIBROGRAF MACHINE DIVISION <_ i 6 Ohio Drive, Lake Success, N.Y. 11042

TINY QUARTZ CLOCK MOVEMENTS

ALMOST AS SMALL AS A WATCH! $ 6 SQ IN QUANTITY

Weighing only 1.25 ounces, this Versatile Movement will carry a sweep second hand and run for over one year on a single "AA" cell- only 9/16" thick this compact unit can be fit into any type case or panel. A single center nut enables the movement to be easily fixed to a dial. The hand setting knob, seconds setter, and battery compartment are conveniently located on the back. Accurate to (+) 10 seconds per month.

Please send #475 Ultra Thin Quartz Movements. If not completely satisfied, I may return for full credit or refund.

1 or 2@ $8.75- 3 to 9@ $7.75- 10 to 24@ $7.25 -Carton of 25 @ $6.50 each

NAME __________________________________________________ __

ADDRESS ----------------------------------------------------

CITY -------------------- STATE ----- ZIP -------------

~

~ Esslinger & Cb.

Gem of an idea.

Take stock in America. Buy U.S. Savings Bonds.


, ;

P.O. BOX 43561 ST. PAUL, MN 55164 TOLL FREE 800-328-0205 MINNESOTA 800-392-0334

Our Readers Write JAEGER ARTICLE HELPFUL

Thank you and Mr. Jaeger for the article "The Watch Cell as it Relates to the Watchmaker." I was one of those fellows who didn't bother with electronic watches; I felt that they would go away. I have been repairing mechanical watches for 33 years, and was sure anything else would run a course and disappear.

Your article was a big help. I would like to sit in on a seminar on reading my 28 Range Fet-VOM Multi tester, and using it to test cells and circuits.

PAT ON THE BACK

Ernest Schettler Georgetown, DE

Thanks for a really high-quality magazine. Compared to other trade/technical journals I have seen, I feel we as watch and clockmakers are fortunate to have The Horological Times for our use.

I of course find the technical articles very good, but I also enjoy Mr. Hagan's "In the Spotlight" and other historical articles. It's sort of a "morale booster" to be reminded of the long and remarkable history of our profession.

Keep up the good work!

Frip Nielsen Chicago, IL

The Horological Times welcomes letters from its readers. Please write us at A WI Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. We do reserve the right to edit all letters.

S1nc€ th€ JnvEntJon o~ th€ sunb1al, man has O€€b€b R€llaBl€ POWER

to chaRt tlm€.

VARTAchron's Time ArtiFacts 2nd in a series.

Table Clock. Last quarter of the 16th Century. German. From the collection at Caramoor Center for Music and the Arts, Katonah. N.Y Originally a spring driven alarm clock This clock was fitted with a bob pendulum in the 17th Century. The pendulum has since been removed but the hole for the pendulum, which hung across the face of the dial, can be seen in the center of the cornice molding. The present hemispherical bell is a replacement. Four holes at the top mark the former position of strap crown over the original bell . In its original form this table clock would have had a single hand telling the hour.

tobay's powER IS VARTAchron® The hallmark of an artisan

is his degree of craftsmanship. Just as the true artisan is not satisfied until his own ~ersonal standards of art

and perfection have been reached; no less a dedicated philosophy and determination to achieve the highest of standards has produced VARTAchron® ... Your assurance of excellence in watch batteries.

VARTAchron® offers a quality program with a complete selection of watch batteries in widespread

international use for today's modern watches. Since the invention of the sundial, man has needed

reliable power to chart time ... VARTAchron'"' fulfills that need with excellence equal to that of an artisan .

VARTA Batteries, Inc. 85 Executive Blvd. Elmsford, N.Y. 10523 (800) 431-2505 in N.Y. (914) 592-2500


THE Basic Gemology for the Repair Shop

Cubic Zirconia and Other Diamond Substitutes Part II

The trained eye is one of the best tools for detecting diamond substitutes as certain visible characteristics of diamond are not possessed by any of the substitutes. The facet junctions of a diamond are very sharp and well-defined. The edges on the substitutes, all of which are much softer, will be slightly rounded. A good light source and a ten-power Ioupe will usually detect these rounded edges. If the stone is moved ever so slightly so that the beam of light strikes where the facets meet, you will notice a broader reflection appearing as a white line caused by the rounded surface. These are more easily detected after the stone has been worn for awhile. Polishing marks can also be seen on some of the substitutes but they can be seen on some diamonds as well so these could lead you astray.

The unpolished girdle of a diamond will also help to readily distinguish it from the substitutes. If the diamond is bruted (girdle rounded) too rapidly, it may show some bearding. Bearding is the term for very tiny cracks (cleavages or fractures) extending from the girdle edge. Sometimes you will have to look at the girdle of a diamond very closely to see these, if they are present. None of the substitutes will show any bearding.

Naturals on the surface of a girdle are also indicative of a diamond. A natural is the term used to refer to the unpolished surface or "skin" of the crystal from which the stone was cut. Naturals are left on the girdle for the sake of retaining weight, as removing a natural would result in a smaller stone . Oftentimes, if you look closely at a natural, you will notice small triangular-shaped marks called "Trigons." These are growth marks characterstic of diamonds. There have been reports of some substitute materials showing what appear to be naturals on the girdle surface, so be careful. Look at every diamond you can and observe the waxy or granular gray surface. All the girdle surfaces of the substitutes will have a different appearance. At first it may be difficult to

8 Horological Times /October 1979

A-Girdle B-Table C-Culet D-Lower Girdle Facet

by Fred S. Burckhardt

A

F

'>~-",..__-+#-r--- G

H

E-Pavilion Facet F-Upper Girdle Facets G-Belel Facet H-Star Facet

discern this difference , so practice and experience are the best teachers.

After a diamond has been worn, an abraded area will appear like that of its bruted girdle. The substitutes will chip and surfaces of their abraded areas will have a higher luster.

Another optical test which would indicate diamond is the presence of extra facets. An extra facet is one which you may find almost anyplace on a diamond's surface. They are used to polish out a minor blemish and not all diamonds will have them. I have never seen one on any of the substitute

(Continued on page 10)

You could spend around $3000 for a digital display multi-function rate measuring instrument.

But it isn't necessary. The Citizen CQ'r-101 can measure not only

quartz watches (analog and digital) but also tuning fork and balance wheel watches with all the accuracy you need.

Its measuring range is from 0.01 second a day to ±399 seconds per day.

To monitor various types of watches and clocks, you simply change the microphone.

The CQ'r-101 is the only quar-tz timing instrument you'll ever need.

And even when it's not helping you build your service business, its attractive, professional look makes it in an effective in-store

promotional display. Pay $2000 or $3000 for a timer? Ridiculous.

Now that Citizen's CQ'r-101 is here. Place your order with your material house

or directly to Citizen Watch Company. For more information, write: Citizen Watch Co. of America, Inc., Service Headquarters, 12140 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90064. Tel.: (213) 826-6541.

We sell with you, not through you.

*Suggested retail. Price does not include shipping and microphone for mechanical watches. Sales tax additional in California.

There Is a VIGOR® Polisher-Grinder-Dust Collector

To Suit Your Needs

DOUBLE SPINDLE • Y2 HP -3450 RPM

The POWERHOUSE • Measures: 33Y4" x 21 Y4" x 103/4" • Complete with spindles

DC-2000 $230.00

• % HP- 3450 RPM The "ECONOMY MODEL" • Measures: 20Y4" x 17Y4" x 12" • Complete with spindles

DC-2025 $175.00

SINGLE SPINDLE • % HP -3450 RPM

For " LIMITED" REQUIREMENTS • Measures: 153/s" x 17" x 10Y4" • Complete with spindle

DC-1050 $138.00

B. JADOW &SONS, INC. New York, N.Y.

Available through Jewelry/Lapidary Supply Houses


ROCK QUARRY

(Continued from page 8)

materials nor have I read or heard of anyone mentioning them on the substitutes. I can't think of any reason why they would be use-d on the substitutes as the material is usually very "clean" plus the time needed to polish an extra facet isn't warranted. At best, the presence of an extra facet is only an indication of a diamond, not proof.

Characteristic diamond inclusions such as included crystals, cleavage and feathers are good indications that the stone is a diamond. Sometimes these can only be resolved under higher magnification than is available in most shops and stores. Just about every diamond you'll see will have some type of inclusion. If you can't see any under a ten-power loupe, you had better do some more checking as there aren't many so-called "flawless" diamonds around.

Another quick test, which I have used quite often, was devised by Allan C. Elgart, New York Director of the European Gemological Laboratory. All that is needed is a white business card and a penlight. Place the loose stone, table down on the card and shine the light from beneath the card. A diamond will show a black pavilion appearing like a multi-leafed pin wheel. Cubic zirconia, YAG, and GGG will show a white pavilion with a black ring around the girdle. The stone and card must be level and veiwed directly through the culet or the imitations will give the same effect. Flat or heavily-flawed diamonds may not give the same results, but these stones can be noticed without any difficulty. The only two imitations that may cause some problems with this test are Strontium Titanate and synthetic Rutile. The effect from these stones will be close to that of a diamond except that they will show more whiteness around the culet area. These can be distinguished rather easily, however, as synthetic Rutile will have a yellowish body color. It is also the only doubly-refractive stone used as a substitute, so as you look into the stone through the table, you will see two culets instead of one and the facet junctions will appear to be two instead of one. This is caused by double refraction. Strontium Titanate exhibits too much color or "fire" because it has extreme dispersion. Dispersion is the breaking up of white light into the colors of the spectrum. Both of these materials are the softest of the substitutes, so scratches, polishing marks and rounded facet junctions should also distinguish them without any trouble.

There are other effective tests, but some are difficult to perform, and require special instruments or more expertise to be conducted properly. Other instruments are also available but certain conditions must be met with both the stones and the instruments themselves. If not, the results could be misleading. I hope these hmts have been or will be of some help to you. If you can't identify a stone conclusively, simply be honest and tell the customer, "I don't know!" D

Call an advertiser HE'S HELPING US HELP YOU.

@ has been the leader in quartz technology for many years. In fact, we have been responsible for an impressive number of developments and improvements in this field. When our competitors promise the thinnest, the most precise, the most reliable, the most advanced calibers - we take that to mean that they are almost as thin, almost as precise, almost as reliable, almost as advanced as the @ quartz calibers. Turn this page and discover the new @ Manufacture Quartz with Product Plus. Ifs just one exampl~ out of many.

What happens when E. Cloux wants to set his watch to the correct time?

What happens when R. Doebeli's watch is 2 seconds fast?

What happens when P. Amann stumbles on the stairs?

What happens when M. Gutknecht takes the airplane from Geneva to New York?

What happens when the battery in H. Schenkel's watch runs down?

It happens that their watches are all equipped with the new calibers ® Manufacture Quartz Product Plus.

Pulling out the crown, E. Cloux sets the second hand at noon, and his watch to the correct time.

By simply touching the button he adjusts the correct time, without affecting the hour and minute hands. He won't need to do this often, in any case!

Assuming that P. Amann's head is as solid as the stairs, nothing happens at all. His watch automatically corrects any errors caused by physical or magnetic shocks.

Before he lands in New York, M.Gutknecht simply sets the hour hand to the correct time zone. The minute and second hands are not affected.

When the second hand starts jumping ahead two seconds at a time, he has 8 days to visit his watchmaker and have the battery replaced.

This new caliber is a perfect example of the technological leadership of ETA. It offers many technical advantages, the Product Plus: fine adjustment of seconds; automatic correction in case of physical or magnetic shocks; easy time zone change; battery-life indication.

What happens when you sell watches equipped with @Quartz?

ETA 5 W" 977 "OPUS QUARTZ" H 3.60, for very small ladies watches.

ETA 7 3!4"' 951 "NORMLINE QUARTZ" H 4.30, center second, instantaneous changing of date and day indications, with corrector and stop-second.

ETA 7 3/4"' 950 "FLATLJNE QUARTZ" H 310, for the thinnest, the most elegant watches.

ETA 11 W" 954 "FLATLJNE QUARTZ" H 3.70, center second hand, instantaneous changing of date and day indications, with corrector and stop-second.

ETA 11 W" 952 "MANUFACTURE QUARTZ" H 4.50, center second, instantaneous changing of date and day indications, with corrector and stop-second. All versions with Product Plus can be provided.

ETA 11 W" 9361162 "GABARIT QUARTZ" H 5.50, center second instantaneous changing of date and day indications, with corrector and stop-second.

ETA 12 W" 940 "FLATLINE QUARTZ" H 3.70, center second instantaneous changing of date and day indications, with corrector and stop-second.

You sell the very best technology, plus after -sale service throughout the world. You sell watches with movements created and developed by the specialists in electronic watches, and achieved with the help of ultra-modem equipment. You sell watches that are technically_:Qerfect. We will gladly give you information on all our calibers. Please write us for complete documentation.

@ ET.A S.A Fabriques d'ebauches 2450 Grenchen Switzerland Tel. (065) 51 21 21 Telex 349371

0 EBAUCHES SA Swiss watches set

the standard of the world.

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AWl NEWS

All watchmakers are familiar with the Bestfit watch material system as developed by the B. J a dow Company. For years the watchmaking industry has depended on the Bestfit catalogs for parts, interchangeability, and movement identification information. Through the years, other material importers have supplied similar catalogs providing this data.

The Bestfit catalogs were last published in 1964. Needless to say, quite an information gap has been created since their books were last published. AWl has helped bridge that gap by printing supplemental information sheets for movements introduced since 1964. We obtained this information from the master Bestfit system which the B. Jadow Company sells to the various watch material dealers throughout the United States. The card system from which we gathered this information is copyrighted and we are no longer permitted to reprint it.

As watchmakers, we all have anxiously awaited the publication of a new Bestfit catalog. After years of compiling information for a new catalog, B. Jadow Company has concluded that the costs involved in producing a new catalog are prohibitive. THEY DO NOT PLAN TO PUBLISH A NEW CATALOG. This leaves the watchmaker in a difficult position. AWl can no longer publish supplemental information sheets and no one else is providing this kind of information for him.

Without this information available, the ordering of replacement parts could revert back to the chaotic situation which existed before standardized parts and information systems were made available. Our material systems could be reduced to the hodgepodge envelope and cigar box system which was prevalent before standardization came to our industry. The watchmaker may be required to search for a part "close to" the one needed. If this happens, once again lathes, files, gravers, rounding-up tools and the like will occupy a very prominent place on the watchmaker's bench. It is questionable whether practical watch repair can continue under such conditions.

You may feel that "someone" will have to do something about this situation. We do not see that "someone" on the horizon. We have all observed the extensive diversification occurring among watch material suppliers in recent years. Many have gone into the distribution of jewelry, watches and clocks, castings, jewelry repair supplies, tools, etc. Others have diversified to the point where they no longer consider the watch supply business as their main source of revenue. Some eventually discontinued the watch supply business


altogether. Unfortunately, the average watchmaker does not have such options as readily available.

What can be done to insure an adequate supply of information and a standardized watch material system? There is an answer to this dilemma; the availability of the same master Bestfit system that watch material houses purchase from the B. Jadow Company.

The master Bestfit system is being offered to individual watchmakers on a film system known as microfiche. In order to make it practical to supply the entire master system, a minimum of 2,000 systems must be subscribed to before it can be produced. The B. Jadow Company proposes to sell the entire system and a quality microfiche viewer for $350.00. $200.00+ of this initial investment goes for the viewer. The remaining costs go toward the production of the system. A $50.00 deposit is required to affirm your intention to purchase the system. If sufficient interest in this system is not demonstrated, the $50.00 deposit will be refunded by the B. Jadow Co. and the entire project will be dropped. See the B. Jadow ad on page 23 for more details.

The need to purchase an information system is not new to the service professions. Radio and television technicians have been required to purchase this kind of information for many years. Other crafts have been doing this also. We in watchmaking have been fortunate that competition has caused the competitors to provide this information without charge up to now. This kind of competition no longer exists.

If enough watchmakers acquire the microfiche viewers, we believe that suppliers will once again begin to provide all kinds of information. They will be in a position to take advantage of the lower production and distribution costs which this system makes possible. A WI may then find it practical to produce and distribute technical information which up to now has been far too expensive for us to consider. Thus the microfiche viewer could be used for many purposes in addition to the Bestfit master system.

I hope that the nature of this article will not lead you to believe that A WI or I make a practice of endorsing certain firms or their products. THIS IS NOT THE PURPOSE OF THIS ARTICLE. We are merely trying to insure the continued availability of the standards and information which are the lifeblood of our profession. I view the proposed Bestfit master system program as possibly our last chance to insure the availability of this information for the watch repair industry. 0

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Essence of Clock Repair© 1979

by Sean C. "Pat" Monk CMW

Part Ll

\\~ 30-Hour English Longcase, Rope -Operated,

Single Weight, with Unusual Hour Strike Mechanism

This old floor clock, extremely well made in the old English tradition with thick brass plates, solid wheelwork and anchor escapement, was brought to my attention by our head clockmaker "Scotty" Jack Dawson. Jack, who has worked the bench for many years and is always enthusiastic about the unusual, asked, "Have you ever seen one with a crazy strike mechanism such as this?" I must admit that I never had, although many old clocks have passed our way and some such clock may have been repaired by one of us in the distant past and then forgotten. However, Jack is enough of an enthusiast about the unusual in clockwork, especially really old clockwork, that he began to chuckle when he deposited this one on my bench for scrutiny. "Gotta do an article on this one!" he prescribed.

The whole point of "the essence" of clock repair is not only to familiarize one with the history and mechanics of the usual, but also to establish and describe the unusual. In this way it is hoped that those engaged in clock restoration

Figure 1.,


will find new delight in some of the odd practices that went into the engineering of very old timepieces.

The very unusual element in our particular clock is the striking mechanism. The clock itself, however, is operated by a continuous rope, one loop of which can be seen in Figure I as it rolls over the strike main wheel. The continuous rope operates both the going and strike mechanisms for a period of approximately 30 hours.

Looking at the front plate {Figure 2), the going train is on the left hand side, its main wheel carrying the minute wheel (a) which, via the cannon pinion, meshes with the hour wheel (b).

The cannon pinion behind the hour wheel carries a single steel pin on its back side. As this pin rotates towards the 12-o'clock position, it lifts a steel lifting lever {c) which pivots on an arbor (d). This arbor runs between the two clock


d -----~ c

a

Figure 2.

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More than twenty-eight years of writing have been skillfully compiled into this first-ever book published of Jess Coleman's original work. This book is designed to aid those who are interested in solving the everyday problems confronted in practical clock repairing. This attractive hardbound, 544 page encyclopedia of herological information is published by the American Watchmakers Institute Press. The price is $30.00 postpaid.

Since the passing of Jess Coleman, many have felt the void created by not being able to write or call Coleman for help whenever a problem seemed unsolvable. The unique 9 page index and cross reference prepared by Orville R. Hagans, once again makes it possible to consult with Coleman on almost any question relating to horology.

The advance release of 500 copies of THE BEST OF J. E. COLEMAN: CLOCKMAKER are serially numbered. Numbers are being assigned on the basis of the postmarks on advance orders - the earlier postmarks are assigned the lower numbers. Once the advance release is sold, the book will be opened to general distribution.

To insure your low-numbered copy for collection purposes, send your check or money order in the amount of $30.00 payable to AWl Press, addressed to The Best of Coleman, AWl Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Delivery of the advance copies began August 20, 1979.

r---------------------------------------------------USE THIS HANDY ORDER FORM

I have enclosed payment of $30.00 for a special advance release serially numbered copy of the book, THE BEST OF J. E. COLEMAN : CLOCKMAKER. I understand that the numbers are being assigned on the basis of postmarks, the earlie r postmarks being assigned the loyver numbers. Should all the numbered copies be sold, please rush an unnumbered copy so that I may enjoy th is fine book.

Name ________________________________________________________________ __

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Return this coupon to The Best of Coleman, AWl Central, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

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ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR (Continued from page 16)

plates and on the back plate it is attached to another horizontally-placed steel lever which shall be referred to as the locking-unlocking lever ( [ e] of Figure 3).

When the lifting lever (c) is moved, its arbor also moves and rocks the locking-unlocking lever (e). This action frees a "toe" (f) from its locked position against one of a series of steel pins situated around and close to the circumference of an hour counting wheel (g). At this point the strike train is now freed and the strike "warning" commences. The warning wheel and, the fly (or fan) commence to rotate and continue to do so until a pin on the warning wheel stops against a "gate" (h) at the extreme end of the locking-unlocking lever. The gate (h), by the way, passes through a slot cut into the back clock plate. The action described completes the warning.

Meanwhile, the going train is still moving, and the cannon pinion is moving with it. After the warning is completed as described, the pin on the ca~non pinion reaches its zenith at the 12-o'clock position and passes beyond the end of the lifting lever. This allows the latter to drop. At the same time, the locking-unlocking lever (e) on the back plate also drops.

Here occurs the unusual feature. At this point, the pin on the warning wheel is not arrested, as one might assume. Instead, it is allowed to pass through a slot cut into the gate (h) on the locking-unlocking lever. Our sketch (Figure 4), attempts to depict this slot.

The warning wheel continues to rotate, there being nothing to arrest it, until one of the pins on the rotating count

l+--- e

g

Figure 3.

wheel again reaches the toe (f) on the locking-unlocking lever. The toe on the latter is slightly curved so that the arresting pin lifts the lever without jamming. Finally, when the particular pin lifts the locking-unlocking lever, it raises it sufficiently so that the gate (h), at its extreme end, stops once again against the warning wheel pin. Striking now ceases.

Certain items in our illustrative figures warrant a few words of explanation. In Figure 1, the hour counting

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Arbor

Rear side view of Locking-Unlocking Lever (approximate scale)

r,:;--- - ------lJll'l-,._-Siot

(Pivoting point) -Toe '-G "- ate

(Slight curve}

Sketch of Gate of Locking-Unlocking Lever

Slot through which ~ Warning Wheel Pin passes • ~~.,...!-_ _;Lock-Unlock Lever

passes through Slot in Back Clock Plate

_j

wheel pins, spaced for the correct hour rotation , can be clearly seen. Also in this photo one may observe the driving pinion (i) for the counting wheel, as well as the going main wheel G). One should disregard the unorthodox bends in the pallet arm and crutch as they appear here. Somewhere along the line of its long history, we must assume that a new suspension spring was fitted to this clock by someone who cared neither for the mechanics involved., nor for the general appearance. In such an instance we recommend that a new suspension spring be fitted and the pendulum length, and subsequent timing, be adjusted accordingly. Jack, our mechanic, is attending to this before home delivery of the clock. 0

Figure 4

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October 19 79/Horologi.cal Times 19

Questions· and Answers by Henry B. Fried =

CMW CMC FBHI

Too Old to be a Grandmother Q. I am employed as Chief Preparator at the Museum of Natural History at Michigan State University. We have been offered, as a donation, a beautiful grandmother clock. We are anxious to receive it. However, the donor is asking a maximum appraisal on the clock for IRS purposes.

Apparently the clock is in excellent condition as the enclosed pictures indicate .. It is a Martin Hall, Yarmouth, measuring 63 inches in height. I realize it is difficult to give an appraisal on an item without viewing it-so I am asking for a maximum appraisal for such a clock; and I can go from there when I see it.

I shall appreciate any assistance you can give me on this .

Chet Trout East Lansing, MI

A. Your illustrations show a nice slender clock, English, of the period around 1750. Martin Hall of Yarmouth i~ listed as a maker of the mid-eighteenth century, but few details are mentioned.

As for appraisals, you must know that we do not supply such services. However, in such a case, we can only hazard a guess based on what auction prices bring on similar items, although such short clocks are a bit rarer. Off hand 1 would place a value of $2,500.00 on this. I may be wrong, but I can only go on the auction reports I read in the British horological press. You might, if you wish, add a bit because it is a short floor clock (can't call it a "grandmother" clock as the term wasn't used until late in the nineteenth century).

Henry B. Fried

CONVERTIBLE

Q. The watch pictured in the enclosed photo is an 18s Elgin, serial no. 1466019. The cannon pinion, or clutch mechanism, is slipping. I would like to know the proper method to dis-


assemble this timepiece and also how to obtain the proper tension on the clutch.

William A. Bevill Beaverton, OR

A . Your Elgin was one of the "convertible" models which could be made either open faced or hunting by changing the crown wheel from either side to the other of the ratchet wheel. It was made in 1883. It is listed as a grade 49.

If the clutch mechanism (that is, the friction needed to tum the hands} is too loose, then the cannon pinion and the center


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QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS (Continued from page 20)

arbor will have to be removed from within the hollow center pinion. The center arbor (with its steel wheel attached) will have to be slightly swaged so that it is tighter within the hollow center pinion where the clutch action is. Then, after

Swage Here

the arbor and center pinion's insides are oiled, it can be replaced.

Before you attempt _to disassemble the movement and its center arbor system, it would be best to read the chapter on hollow center pinions in this writer's Bench Practices for Watch Repairers. That chapter is very well illustrated and explains all such systems including the one with which you are having difficulty. To try to do it without prior knowledge which could be obtained from that chapter would be to court problems. Materials for this watch are difficult to obtain and collectors like these Elgins, raising the price of replacement.

Henry B. Fried

WWII TIMER

Q. I have in for repair an Elgin Nat'l Watch Co. Track Timer; tenth-second, 15 jewels, 16s, grade 575, serial No. 42246442. My problem is that I can stop the second hand, but the movement keeps on running. There is no lever to stop the train, and no indication of a broken or missing lever. It does not seem practical to me for a stop-watch to stop the hands while the train keeps running.

Do you have a technical sheet for this model or can someone explain this type of movement to me?

Karl H. Brunner Cambridge, NY

A. It is strange that you should inquire about the Elgin timer when I just had another identical inquiry. (It might have been you writing to another publication for which I answer questions as well.)

I have had a couple of these in the past. In an effort to learn more about them, I contacted Mr. Donald W. Leverenz, a


production manager and technician who was with the Elgin factory at the time these were made. Last week he wrote me that he remembers the order. It was a government order during WWII. However, the purpose of these watches was never made clear to the Elgin people; only that they were to produce them. .Thus he and I can only hypothesize as to what purpose they served. I can only guess that they might have been used in conjunction with cameras attached to an aerial gunner's camera which took pictures showing time (of the event-lapse) and target simultaneously. Your guess is as good as mine! No technical sheets for these exist.

Henry B. Fried

MOVEMENT I.D.

Enclosed are photos of two watch movements which I would like reviewed for the caliber and/or model number identification. Research of my own has been exhausted.

' 1/' h ~/I\ !~ .... - .I'· I._)

/'"

Since each of these movements requires a staff, your assistance in identifying them will help me in making a more intelligent


Dear Mr. Watchmaker:

THE FACTS OF LIFE

Due to the enormous cost of preparing, developing, and printing catalogs, it is no longer practical to continue publishing volumes such as the Bestfit Encyclopedias 111 and 111 A. In order to provide the WATCHMAKER-JEWELER vital information for the servicing of watches and clocks, we have devised the Bestfit Micro-Fiche information system. This is the very same system for selecting and storing watch and clock parts that the watch material supply house and we at Bestfit use. If it is your intention to continue as a watch repairman, then it is of the utmost importance that you have an everflowing source of current information. This is the- life blood of our industry. Only with our new system will this be possible.

This is a limited time offer. If your order is not received by December 31, 1979 you will not be able to participate in this once in a life time opportunity. Delivery can be anticipated June/ July 1980.

Sincerely,

THE BESTFIT""MICROFICHE WATCH MATERIAL INFORMATION SYSTEM"

The new completely up to date Bestfit Encyclopedia of Watch and Clock Material is being prepared in this new modern form.

Microfiche is a type of micro film which is in common use and which can be enlarged for easy viewing through a reader similar to the one illustrated here.

Bestfit breaks precedent by making this offer directly to the Watchmaker in order to keep costs down.

THE BESTFIT"MICROFICHE SYSTEM HAS THESE MANY ADVANTAGES

• The Bestfit microfiche system completely details interchangeable information on over 8000 watch and clock calibres. No longer will you be purchasing parts that you have on hand. Each photo lists parts for the complete movement. A position number for each part is shown on the card. No longer will it be necessary to describe the part. Merely order by system position number. Since your wholesaler has the same system and stocks by these numbers, he will be able to fill your orders in the least possible time.

• It provides a systemdtic method of delivering new information in a continuing way, so that you will be completely informed and up to date at all times. The first year's updating will be free . Thereafter new supplementary information will be supplied to maintain the system for an annual fee of $75.00.

• Bestfit guarantees that information will be supplied regularly so that your system will be "alive" at all times.

• Information supplied by other manufacturers using microfiche can be viewed on your reader.

• You will be supplied with a high fidelity microfiche reader. The reader will require ap= =-- ·-roximately 12 square inches of space and can easily fit in the corner of your work bench.

• NOTE: This picture is for illustration purposes only. There may_. be changes in the model that will be supplied at the time of delivery .

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QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. (Continued from page 22)

staff procurement. Other information which I can provide: The 6Lx8L movement is from a Swank cigarette lighter; the ratchet wheel has an A-1000 number engraved on it.

Eugene E. Augustin Clear, AK

A. Your question was turned over to me. I recognized the movements in the photos. (Very good.)

The wrist watch size movement is Russian, ERA, Cal. 1000. Parts can be obtained from your regular material dealer or from John A. Poltock Co., Inc., 93 Nassau Street, NY 10038

The pocket watch movement is, of course, Rockford and is an interesting one. I have a few of these in my own collection. It is the 7th model. Notice the screw with the L&P. Turning the screw slot towards the L makes it a lever set. If turned towards the P, it becomes a pendant set. There is also one in the A WI Museum collection for which I made a stem with· out the sample. When ordering parts for the Rockford, also mention the L&P as an additional means of identification

Henry B. Fried

CENTER WHEEL TAPER PIN

Q. We have an old, 18s, E. Howard & Co. watch (Boston), 3/4 plate, mov't no. 300920 that seems to have a removable center pinion. Having never worked on a watch of this type,

we are in the dark as to how to proceed with disassembly and repair. Any help you can give us would be appreciated. The main problem with this particular watch, other than general cleaning, is that the center pinion touches the case back and stops the watch.

Stephen B. Myers Wabash, IN

A. The 18s E. Howard & Co. 3/4 plate no. 300920 had a hollow center pinion. Thus the center arbor is a tapered, smooth pin with a head which probably touches your case back. The friction for the cannon pinion or turning of the hands is between .this tapered center arbor and the insides of the hollow center pinion. This taper pin is dead-tight secured with the smooth insides of the cannon pinion.

To remove this pinion, place the movement on a staking stump or hollow punch whose hole allows the pin-head to rest within it. This will accommodate the cannon pinion with its thinner arbor pin end facing upward. Place a solid, flatfaced punch on this projection of the pin. A slight tap with the hammer will force the pin outward and loosen it enough (since it 's tapered} to be removed. Then you can take the watch apart. Replacement procedure is just the reverse. When doing so, oil the inside of the solid center pinion.

All this is very clearly illustrated in a chap'ter in the book, Bench Practices for Watch and Clockmakers which is available for loan or sale to paid-up members from the A WI library. I would strongly suggest you see the book before you work on the Howard, which is now a collector's item.

Henry B. Fried

"0" SIZE ELGIN

Q. I have an "0" size Elgin movement 6797499 with engraved gold letters with the following: 16 jewels, adjusted , safety pinion, Elgin National Watch Co. , center wheel and trim in gold. I have never seen a 16 jewel Elgin before and am curious of its rarity. Would this be a collectors item? Any information you can send me will be appreciated.

Alex Tobey Chevy Chase, MD

A. Sixteen jewel Elgins were made in quantities, about seventeen thousand in all or a bit more. Your watch was one of two thousand made in 1896. Others were made later. Four thousand of grade 167 exactly as yours were produced with six size and 0 size watches of grades 230-231, 271-272. Quite a few more of grades 327 and 331 were also made in sixteen jewel models. D

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October 1979/HoroloKi.cal Times 25

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Advisory Committees: Important Segments of our Educational System

Ever since becoming the chairman of REC, I have tried to establish some sort of basic meaning for this corner of the magazine which is devoted to watchmaking schools and the education of watchmakers. My attempts to provoke some comments on issues about which I felt strongly fell on deaf ears; or so it seems, because I have never been challenged on the articles or the issues. In the past nine months I have often considered relinquishing this page in favor of some better material, but each time I decided against it. I always felt that by doing so I would set a precedent and the REC would lose an important form of communication. Even though it is one sided, it is still communication. If we cannot have many views expressed on many topics, we can still have one view on as many topics as I or the future chairmen can think of. And who knows. Some day we may hit a sore spot somewhere and start discussing our problems. Until then, let me rumble on.

One of the very important segments of our educational systems are the Industry Advisory Committees. Although they may be organized differently in different states, their basic functions and responsibilities are the same: they provide a valuable link between the schools and the industry by advising the administrations on new developments in the field , new methods of production, employment opportunities and requirements, etc. The assistance an instructor can receive from a well-selected and well-organized advisory committee is tremendous. The damage that can be done by a poorly selected one can also be considerable. Imagine an :individual curriculum design in which the committee has an input. In some instances, it is dictated directly by employment opportunities, and if a number of employers are only interested in hiring semi-skilled craftsmen with limited skills and abnost no potential to grow, they will try to impose the kind of curriculum which will produce just that kind of craftsmen. There is no denying that such curriculums have some value in our educational system, but they are too limited and too limiting for watchmaking. A watch cleaner and part changer may completely satisfy the manager of a. production shop, but at the end of the line there are always one or more experts responsible for the fmal product. I str0ngly believe that a curriculum ought to be designed to satisfy the employer and the craftsman. Every student ought to have a chance to develop those basic skills which will assure him an income

Scholastically Speaking by Joseph Rugole, CMW

Chainnan, Research and Education CounciJ

as well as those which will help him become a master of the art to the best of his own efforts and abilities. Anything less than that is less than fair to the student and should not be imposed on him.

The Advisory Committee which recognizes the needs of the student as well as those of the employer is invariably the most productive and most valuable asset to the school, its instructors, and the industry.

Tempus Fugit!

GEM CITY COLLEGE GRADUATE WINS THE DEBEERS DIAMOND TRIP

LaVerne Knipe, manager of Kraft's Jewelers in Davenport, Iowa, visited Gem City College on July 17. Mr. Knipe is a 1974 graduate of the Complete Horologist Course at GCC. He brought along some photos and a detailed report of the promotional event that resulted in his taking a trip to the Virgin Islands.

The trip was a prize that encompassed several years from offer to actuality. The DeBeers Corporation offered the prize at the National Retail Jewelers Convention in 1976. Thousands of jewelry store owners submitted applications to qualify in the contest, and among these was John Wallick, owner of Kraft's Jewelers. In August, 1977, Mr. Wallick learned that Kraft's Jewelers would be one of the 25 stores selected to display the "Diamonds Today" collection for one week in March, 1978. The collection is comprised of the unique, winning jewelry pieces of the DeBeers jewelry design competition.

Preparations for the display began very early in the year. The relating publicity included special invitations, radio and television announcements and features. There was a press reception, open house event, and a special display of designers' creative art pieces. A complete report of the promotion was then submitted to the Diamond Information Center. Kraft's Jewelers was found to be outstanding in all categories, and Mr. Wallick was declared the winner. He offered the one-week vacation prize to La Verne and his wife, Sue, in recognition of LaVern's efforts regarding the promotion of the "Diamonds Today" exhibit.

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October 1979/Horological Tim es 27

Paris College Student Receives Jewelry Degree

Paris Texas College has conferred the first Associate Degree in Applied Sciences in Jewelry Technology upon Bruce Tamker, a student from Warner Robins, Georgia, announced Louis B. Williams, president of the college.

"To our knowledge, the Associate Degree in Jewelry Technology is the first degree program established for the retail jeweler, and Bruce is the first and only person to hold such a degree in this academic area," President Williams noted. The college has offered the vocational certificate program in jewelry and watch repair since 1941, but the associate degree program was first approved by the Texas Education Agency in 1976.

Examining a stone in the gemology lab at Paris Texas College is Bruce Tamker, the first recipient of the Associate Degree in Jewelry Technology. Tamker completed academic courses along with the jewelry program in obtaining the new degree.

In the 1979 Spring Graduation, Tamker was graduated summa cum laude after maintammg a 4.0 grade-point average (all A's) at the college. The degree program includes a total of 64 semester hours-32 in jewelry repair and stone setting and 32 in accounting, economics, business, English, human relations, management, and elective courses. The

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practical jewelry classwork and basic academic courses are combined in the degree program, and all work is transferable to four-year institutions offering the Bachelor of Technology degree.

A native of Lanham, Maryland, Tamker was grad· uated from DuVal Senior High School in 1967 and served four yours in the U.S. Air Force before opening a jewelry business in Warner Robins, Georgia. He learned of the Paris College jewelry program from a retail jeweler in Georgia and decided to use his Veterans Administration educational benefits to continue his education.

He plans to transfer his Paris Texas College work and obtain a Bachelor of Business Administration from Georgia College in Milledgeville, GA.

The jewelry graduate explains that Paris College's jewelry program gave him the opportunity to gain experience in practicing on non-precious metals so that he can use this knowledge when working with precious metals and stones in the future. The college offers programs in jewelry repair, stonesetting, horology, and gemology for students throughout the United States and from many other countries. Certificate programs requiring approximately three months, six months, or one year are offered, and the associate degree program may be completed in jewelry technology or horology in two years.

Approximately 160 students college's jewelry programs, and more are included in the total student body.

are enrolled in the than 2,500 students

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Bruce Tamker, Paris Texas College student from Warner Robins, GA, receives his diploma from the college president, Louis B. Williams. Tamker is the first student to receive the Associate Degree in Jewelry Technology which was approved by the Texas Education Agency in 1976. Tamker wears a medallion, given to students with 4.0 (all A's) grade-point averages.

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October 19 79/ Horological Times 29

Technically

WATCHES by Archie B. Perkins, CMW

(all righ t s reserved b y th e a u th or )

Watch Cases and Their Accessories©1979

Part IV

Major watch case repair is considered a job for the watch case maker, but the watchmaker can usually do minor case repair, and sometimes major case repair, if he or she has had some hard soldering training and experience and has the proper equipment. Without proper equipment, training and experience, more damage than improvement can result to the case. This can be expensive in the case of an irreplaceable high-grade case.

Minor repairs are repairs which can be made without the use of a torch. Major repairs require a torch for soldering some part of the case, such as a lug, hinge, pendant, etc.

The minor repairs will first be discussed. Figure 1 shows some of the most frequently used tools for case repair. "A" shows a set of small case dent removing stakes with a holder for the stakes. This holder fits into the bench vise. At "B" is shown two round-faced dent removing stakes, and "C" shows three flat-faced dent removing stakes. These can be fastened in the bench vise or held in the hand while being used. "D" is a special dent remover which fits inside the center part of the case. This tool is usually held in the bench vise while being used. "E" is also a dent remover for the center part of the case. "F" is a tool for removing joint pins. This tool is a block of metal with a hole drilled lengthwise through the block to accommodate a punch. The punch has a hole in it s end to hold a small sub punch of approximately the same diameter as the joint pin which is to be driven out. This tool is held in the bench vise while being used. "G" is a wood dent removing block with two wooden stakes that are used with the block for removing dents. "H" is a boxwood block that has grooves cut on one side for the center part of the case to fit into while removing dents with a stake from

Figure 1.

30 Horological Times O<·tober 19 79

Figure 2 .

the inside of the case. The other side of the block is flat and smooth for supporting the back of a case when removing sharp dents with a steel or wood stake.

It is easier to remove dents from a case if the back or covers are removed from the center part of the case. If the cover or back doesn't have a hinge, then there will be no problem with their removal as they will either snap or screw on.

If the case is a hunting case, the covers will be hinged onto the center part of the case. If it is too difficult to get to the dents 'with the covers attached, then they will need to be removed for the dent removing operation.

Before removing a hinged cover from a case, a complete understanding of the hinge is necessary. OtheiWise , one just invites trouble in the removing of the joint pin.

A hinge is usually made with three short pieces of gold, gold filled, or silver tubing depending on the kind of metal from which the case is made. Usually two pieces of the tubing are hard soldered to the center part of the case and spaced apart so that another piece of tubing can fit closely between these pieces. This single piece is then hard soldered to the cover of the case in a proper position to fit and line up correctly between the other tubes when the cover is in position on the case. Now a tapered brass or nickel silver pin is inserted through the tubes to form a hinge. The joint pins are tapered a certain amount and can be bought in assorted diameters. The joint tubes are broached out with a broach having the same degree of taper as the joint pins. These are called joint broaches.

The joint tubes are broached out from right to left, as the watchmaker faces the cover, and the joint pins are

Figure 3.

inserted from the same direction. See Figures 2 and 3. Figure 2 shows the joint being broached and Figure 3 shows the joint pin being inserted.

The joint pin should be shorter than the length of the hinge, allowing some space at each end of the pin after the pin has been correctly inserted. This space allows for gold or silver plugs to be placed at each end of the joint pin in the tubes. These plugs should be the same color as the case. This improves the appearance of the joint. To be correct, the joint pin should be tight in the two tubes that are spaced apart, and the single tube on the cover should be just free enough to pivot around the joint pin when the cover is opened and closed.

To remove a cover, first remove the gold plug from the left end of the hinge as the cover is faced. This plug is removed with a sharp square-end graver as shown in Figure 4. It is a good idea to keep the gold plugs in separate containers marked as to which hinge and what end of the hinge they came from, so they can be replaced properly. The joint pin is then removed from the hinge with the joint pin tool "F" as seen in Figure 1. To remove the join pin, place tool "F" in the bench vise as in Figure 5. The sub punch is placed in the end of the tube of the hinge where the gold plug was removed. Then tap the punch with a brass hammer to drive the joint pin out of the hinge. At the same time, the gold plug will be removed from the other end of the hinge by the joint pin. CAUTION: The sub punch used to drive out the joint pin should be slightly smaller than the hole in the tubes of the hinge to prevent damage to the tubes. Also the end of the sub punch should be square and flat to prevent spreading the end of the joint pin when it is removed. A sub punch that has a sharp end will spread the joint pin and make it very difficult to remove.

The gold plugs removed from the ends of the hinge should be saved for reinsertion after the joint pin is replaced. In most cases the old joint pin can also be reused.

Now that the cover is removed, it will be easier to get to the dents for removal. The type of tools used to remove dents varies with the type of dent.

If a watch has been dropped on its edge, the dent will be more difficult to get to and to remove. If the watch case is of the hunting style, then the case springs need to be removed in order to get to the dent. To remove the case springs, determine how they are held in the case. Sometimes the case springs are held in with screws or pins that go through the case and into the case springs. These are located just under the edge of the cover when the cover is lifted. If the case spring is held in by a screw, then the job of removing it is easier, but if a pin is used, it may need to be drilled out, as it would be difficult to get hold of to remove. Sometimes the case springs are held into place by a movement ring. This ring is usually fastened in by screws. By removing the screws, the movement ring can be removed so that the case springs will come out of the hollow in the edge of the case.

Now to remove the dent from the edge of the case, take a boxwood block and chisel out a circular groove that will accommodate the edge of the case as in Figure 6. Then use punch "E" Figure 1 to remove the dent. The punch should be a blunt chisel shape punch with the end rounded and polished to have the same curve as the inside of the edge of the case. A brass hammer is used to tap the punch. The

(Continued on page 34) 13750 Neutron Rood • Dallas, Texas 75234


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Theory of Magnetism Bench Work with Magnets Dry Cells: Voltage and Amperage Using a Meter to Measure Voltage The Theory of Electron Flow and Ohm's Law Using Meters to Measure Current and Resistance How Magnetism Can Generate Electricity Generating Electric Pulses at Your Bench Introduction to Diodes and Transistors Experimenting with Diodes, Transistors, and Capacitors The ESA Electronic Watch, Calibre 9158 Electronic Principles of the Accutron Quartz Crystals and Electronic Reduction Bench Practice on the ESA 9180 LED and LCD Solid State Watches Summary

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TECHNICALLY WATCHES (Continued from page 31)

circular groove in the boxwood block and the end of the punch may need to be changed to get the desired results.

When removing the dent from a cover, if the dent is a long one such as when the curve is pressed in on the cover, then a wood block like "G" in Figure 1, which has different diameter sinks cut into its surface, is used. Select a sink in the block that will accommodate the case cover. Then a boxwood stake is used to reform the curve of the cover. The boxwood stake should be large enough and shaped to match the correct curve of the cover when the cover is shaped correctly.

A polished steel stake can be used instead of the boxwood stake, but a piece of chamois or a polishing cloth should be used between the stake and the inside of the cover to

Figure 4.


Figure 5.

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prevent the finish inside the cover from becoming damaged during the dent removal. This type of dent is shown being removed in Figure 7. A sharp dent in a cover is more difficult to remove. This is done by placing the cover on a smooth flat boxwood block with the outside of the cover resting on the block. Then take a boxwood stake or a smooth polished steel stake and place it inside the cover on the dent. Now the brass hammer is used on the end of the stake to remove the dent. Again a piece of chamois can be used between the stake and the cover to protect its finish. See Figure 8.

When removing a sharp dent, another method can be used. Hold the stake in the bench vise by the square end of the stake as in Figure 9. Then place the cover down over the head of the stake . Now use a smooth boxwood mallet to remove the dent. This is a very good method for removing a sharp dent.

It is very important when removing a dent to use care not to distort the case in any way, especially a screw type

Figure 6.

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case, as this could cause the threads not to line up and make it difficult if not impossible to screw the front and back onto the center part of the case.

Now that the case is straightened, the case springs and covers can be replaced. If it is too difficult to insert the old joint pins when replacing the covers, then new joint pins can be used. To fit a new joint pin, first select one that will go through the joint and extend about the same amount from each end of the hinge as in Figure 3. Use a pin vise to hold the pin while it is being inserted. Push the pin tightly in the joint with a slight twisting motion. Now take something like a scriber or fine file and mark the pin at each end of the hinge. Then remove the joint pin and cut it off inside of the marked places, thus making the pin slightly shorter than the length of the hinge to allow for inserting the gold plugs into the ends of the hinge.

Before the joint pin is re-inserted, its ends should be filed square and the burr removed from the corner of its

Figure 7.

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ends. The joint pin is then inserted into the joint. Now replace the gold plugs in each end of the tubes. These can be pressed in with a steel burnisher. The edge of the tube can then be burnished slightly over on the plugs to hold them tightly.

There are times when one or both case springs need to be replaced because they are broken or damaged beyond use by rust. It so happens that the case being worked on for this article had been exposed to the elements for a long period of time and both springs were rusted beyond use. This case is an 18 size Fahys Monarch no. I made about 1900 to 1905. On a case this old, it is nearly impossible to locate springs to match the old samples. Therefore, springs were found that were as similar as possible to the old springs. These were then altered by grinding so that they would work correctly in the case. Figure 10 shows the old and new lock spring


I Figure 8. Figure 9.


by Joseph Rugole, CMW

Watch lubrication is often the least understood operation of watch servicing and it is not uncommon to find watches lubricated so poorly that their time keeping ability is seriously impaired. Although the balance wheel and the hairspring are the only two components of the watch which function solely in the keeping of time, the total performance of the rest of the mechanism largely determines the regularity and the long term reliability of their operation. Friction is one of the principle causes of malfunction in any mechanism. Beyond good workmanship and sound scientific principles of design, the only effective way to reduce friction and keep it reasonably constant is to select proper lubricants and use good lubricating procedures. Watches are among the finest and smallest mechanical devices made, and as such depend more on lubrication for their long term operation than many larger mechanisms of similar design.

Lubricants have certain physical characteristics which largely determine their proper application. Most of these characteristics are common to all liquids. They are adhesion, cohesion, capillarity, and viscosity.

ADHESION is defined by Websters Dictionary as "the molecular attraction exerted between the surfaces of bodies in contact." This characteristic of watch oil is very important. A good quality oil must adhere well to the surfaces to which it is applied. This means that the molecules of the lubricant must have the ability to stick to and wet the surface. Not all liquids possess this ability to the same degree, and not all materials can be wetted by watch oils. The affmity of watch oil molecules to materials used in watch construction has been carefully studied. Unfortunately , it is impossible to develop the kind of watch oil which will adhere to all substances. One simple case of non-adhesion occurs when


a nnsmg solution is used to clean too many watches. The residue film deposited on the jewel surface will not readily accept the oil drop. If the oiler is moved across the jewel surface, the drop of oil will move with it not leaving behind even the smallest trace of oil. The same residue from the cleaning and rinsing process is also deposited on pivots and shoulders. When pressure is applied from the mainspring, the oil is squeezed out and does not provide lubrication between the surfaces it contacts even though the watch appears to be well lubricated. It is obvious that the one essential condition for good adhesion is cleanliness of the parts to be lubricated. This involves first of all the removal of old, dry oil , grease, and dirt, and then proper rinsing with clean solution which leaves as little residue as possible on surfaces to be lubricated.

COHESION, according to Websters, is the term used to describe "molecular attraction by which the particles of a body are united throughout the mass whether like or unlike." Unlike adhesion, cohesion refers to the force or attraction of particles within the substance i.e ., the oil in our situation. A brief description of the chemical composition of watch oil will be sufficient to illustrate the importance of this physical characteristic. Watch oils are made primarily of two substances; stearine and oleine. Stearine is the solid part of any fat and, when purified, it appears in the form of white crystals. Oleine is the liquid part of fat and, as a chemical, it is an ester of glycol and oleic acid. When the two substances are combined into one, the molecules of stearine and oleine interlock with a weak chemical bond. Because of this weakness, watch oils of natural origin and, to a lesser extent , those of synthetic origin, are rather unstable. The two substances can easily decompose and lose their lubricating properties. Decomposition takes place much faster if the oils are exposed to light, heat, fumes of acids , various degreasing agents such as naptha, benzene, turpentine, varsol etc. , the fumes of cleaning solutions, alcohol, any type of salt, and a number of ester compounds found in perfumes and other beauty aids.

The effects of light and the ester compounds are somewhat different from the rest and are important to understand. Since the oils decompose under the influence of light, they must be stored in a dark place. They are usually packaged in boxes in which they should be stored when not in use. Similarly , the oil cups must be kept closed to diminish exposure to dust and light. When the oil starts decomposing in a bottle, the stearine either gathers in the corners as a white milky deposit, or floats suspended in the liquid. When this happens, such oil must not be used for lubrication. The watches lubricated with such oil are sure comebacks and will have to be cleaned and lubricated again . Once the decomposition starts, it is not possible to stop it or reverse the process. If an oil cup or an automatic oiler becomes contaminated with oil which has begun decomposing, they are no longer safe for use with fresh oil. They should be either discarded or sterilized.

The effect of exposure to perfumes is particularly important in the servicing of ladies' watches. The non-water resistant models often have to be cleaned every six months or so because the fumes from perfumes, creams and powders destroy the oil within a very short time. The cohesive properties of the oil are broken at the weakest link between stearine and oleine and the two components are no longer capable of providing lubrication.

CAPILLARITY of a liquid is directly related to its adhesive and cohesive properties. Defining it would do little

to explain the phenomenon or its importance to good lubrication, yet I feel that it is too important to be left unexplained. The easiest way to explain this property is to illustrate it through a simple experiment. For this we need a beaker or any other open top container which can hold water, and a few clear plastic or glass tubes of various diameters between I nun and 5 mm. Some food coloring will make the water easier to see in the tubes. The tubes are taped to a piece of wood or wire and dipped into the water. (See Figure I.) It will be noticed immediately that the water level

Figure 1. The liquid will rise to a d ifferent level in every tube .

has risen to a different height in every tube. In the tube of the largest diameter, the water is the lowest, and in the smallest it reaches the highest point. Further experiments would disclose that different liquids rise to different heights in the same diameter tube, but also that the same liquid would rise to different heights when the tubes are made of different materials. This experiment confirms one principle of capillary action of liquids; namely that the smaller the capillary tube, the higher the liquid will rise. Another experiment would show the application of this knowledge to watchmaking. If a flat piece of metal such as brass is sanded clean with emery paper, and a drop of oil is applied to the clean surface, it will be observed that the drop will disappear within a short time and a large oil smudge will appear in its place. The fine lines scratched by the emery paper acted as hundreds of tiny capillary tubes, and the liquid just kept on advancing from the center of the drop to all sides. Similar conditions exist when parts of the watch are being lubricated. It should be mentioned here that the finer the oil, the further it will spread and vice versa. This is one reason why mainsprings, winding and setting mechanisms and all other large parts which are under considerable pressure should be lubricated with grease rather than oil.

An experiment illustrated in Figure 2 confirms further the basic principle of capillary action. Take two pieces of glass and clean them thoroughly. Place a large drop of clock oil near the edge of the plate. Place the second plate over the first so that the sides touch near the place where the drop of oil has been deposited. Lower the second plate slowly until it touches the drop of oil. As soon as this happens

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Figure 2. The experiment with an oil drop between two sheets of glass.

the oil will move to the corner between the two plates. This is just a variation of Figure 1, but it explains the application of capillary action to actual situations. lf a flat face hole jewel and a flat face cap jewel are not parallel, the oil will move to where the space is the narrowest . When it contacts the metal, it will be drawn further away by· capillary tubes and there will soon be too little oil left to lubricate the pivot. This knowledge lead to the introduction of convex face hole jewels in combination with flat surfaces as shown in Figures 3 and 4. Since oil has the tendency to move to the narrowest place, it will always gather around the pivot.

Another discovery about capillarity was that the oil cannot readily move across sharp corners. This lead to the

Figure 3. Convex face hole jewel creates tension of liquid toward center.

design of pivot shoulders as shown in Figure 4. The chamfer serves to prevent the spreading of oil up the shaft. For best results it is necessary to have the chamfer polished so that the majority of capillary tubes are removed from its surface. When the pivot is forced against the jewel, part of the chamfer will become wet, but the sharp corner will stop the oil from spreading along the shaft.

Ultrasonic cleaning is recognized as the best cleaning method yet developed, but it does have one bad side effect. The parts are so thoroughly cleaned by cavitation that the oil spreads much more readily on any lubricated surface cleaned ultrasonically. For that reason special oils have been developed which do not spread as readily, and other methods

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Chamfer with

Figure 4. Convex face hole jewel used with straight pivot. Also showing chamfer with sharp corners.

of prevention have also been used. Epilame is a clear liquid which is used to treat the parts prior to lubrication. The liquid evaporates quickly leaving an almost invisible film which prevents the oil from spreading. Some cleaning machines have special epilaming chambers where, after the cleaning and drying processes, the parts are exposed to a fine mist of epilame. Epilame is also commercially available under the name Aretol.

Some years ago, the Seitz Jewel Company in l.es Brenets, Switzerland, developed a method for treating jewels and escapement parts in a way which retards the spreading of oil. The treatment is still the secret of the company. It is applied free of charge, and is permanent. Jewels so treated can be recognized only by the height of the oil drop that can be obtained. (See Figure 5 .) Repeated ultrasonic cleaning and temperatures of 500° F do not reduce the effectiveness of the treatment.

C_::J C:::J ----Jewel (a) Jewel (b)

Figure 5. Spreading of oil on jewel surface. (a) untreated jewel (b) jewel treated by Seitz method

VISCOSITY has a much broader meaning than we need to explore here, but since it is an important characteristic of watch oil, it should be explained at least in reference to our subject. Basically it is the reciprocal property of fluidity. In coloquial terms, it is the stickiness of a liquid as opposed to the fluidity of it. The qualitative measure of a lubricant is determined by, among other things, its viscosity and its density. When these two characteristics are taken into consideration, we obtain a measure of "kinematic viscosity," the unit of which is a "stoke." Since viscosity in a broad sense represents stickiness, it is an extremely important factor in lubricants for small mechanisms because as such it creates a certain amount of resistance to motion which is in fact friction.

Furthermore, viscosity does not remain constant over a period of time. It varies with age and deterioration of oil as well as with variations of temperature. Having established that viscosity is a form of friction, and also that it is variable, it need hardly be pointed out that viscosity of a lubricant has a great deal to do with the timekeeping abilities ofwatches. D

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THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER ©1979

by Marvin E. Whitney CMCCMW

Making a Detent Part II

After the locking jewel has been secured in the pipe, place the detent on the plate and tighten down the screw to a point where the detent is stable but can be moved either backward or forward with a little pressure. Now shift the detent so it will assume the correct locking position. With a pointed piece of pegwood , move the escape wheel (no power on the escapement) in a clockwise direction until a tooth engages the locking jewel. Now check to see that the distance between the two escape wheel teeth nearest the impulse roller is correct. (The space should be equal on both sides of the roller.) If you find the back tooth is closer to the roller edge, push the detent forward a trifle (toward the staff); if the front tooth is closer, pull the detent back slightly . When the distance of "lights," as they are often called, is equal, tighten up the detent screw. Recheck the "lights" to make certain that no movement occurred during the tightening operation.

Next check to see if the bottom of the pipe is resting squarely against the head of the banking screw. When all of these conditions have been checked, drill the hole for the steady pin in the detent foot. Generally , this can best be accomplished by removing the top bridge, but in so doing be extremely careful that the position of the detent is not altered in any way.

The original steady pin hole in the plate may be used as a template, or the original hole in the plate may be plugged before the installation of the detent and a new hole drilled straight through the detent and plate. Broach the hole slightly and remove any burrs. With this done, make the steady pin. It must be firm but, at the same time, loose enough to facilitate safe removal. Both ends of the steady pin should be burnished smooth and slightly rounded. Again, recheck the position of the detent to make certain that it has not moved.

After the steady pin has been properly affixed, remove the detent from the top plate, take out the locking


jewel, and remove the trip spring screw. Any last minute dressing up with either a fine file or small oilstone slip is in order before hardening and tempering. At this point, remember that the detent is very close to its finished size. The final sizing (thinning and polishing) is to be done after it has been heat treated.

The detent is hardened by completely wrapping it with fine iron binding wire so it takes on the appearance of a wire cocoon. Pay particular attention to the wrapping of the horn end so as to prevent it from burning and warping. Then give it a liberal coating of soap, heat it to a cherry-red, and quench it horn first into light machine oil: otherwise, it may come out warped and distorted. It is easily tempered by placing it in a spoon or bluing pan , burning off the oil which adheres to the binding wire, and then quickly dropping it (horn down) in the oil again as soon as the flame burns out.

Some of the Observatory chronometer makers, instead of using machine oil as a quenching bath, chose to use water with oil floating on top. To temper , they placed the wrapped detent in the center of a bluing pan filled with either brass filing or fine white sand. A bright polished piece of steel was placed on top of the filing or sand. The bluing pan was then held over a Bunsen burner until the piece of steel reached a dark blue. The pan was then removed from the heat and just when the piece of steel began to lighten slightly, the wrapped detent was quickly removed and quenched horn first in light machine oil. The color here is very important for if the detent reaches a light blue color it may be too soft, and without the proper resiliency it will not return quickly enough to lock the escape wheel.

Next, carefully remove the binding wire and examine the detent to see if it is warped. Seldom does this occur if the detent has been properly wrapped, but if it does, the detent should be straightened with a pair of small brass-lined tweezers. Clean and polish the horn and then soften it to a very light blue color so that it can be bent without breaking , should such an adjustment be required later.

The thinning and polishing operation is usually done with flat polishers and stones of various sizes and materials;

jasper stone, tin, zinc, ivory, steel, boxwood, etc., and likewise for the polishing compounds; diamontine, oilstone powder, levigated allumina, etc. The type of finish is a matter of personal choice. Some makers like a gray grain finish, while others prefer a black polish.

Place a small, round, tapered burnishing reamer through the pipe to hold it , or fit the pipe-filing template back in the hole and grasp the lower end in a small pin vise, and polish it up . Next, polish the horn, leaving the end where it joins the pipe a trifle broader than the other end. The tip of the horn where the trip spring rests must be highly polished with the corners slightly rounded.

The top and bottom of the detent and pipe can be easily polished by grasping it in a brass-lined flat pin vise which has a small round groove filed in it for the pipe to rest in. The sides of the blade, boss, and horn can best be polished by laying the detent on a flat piece of cork or balsa wood and then positioning several pins or needles along the edges of the detent in the cork to prevent any lateral movement of the detent while under the influence of the flat polisher. See Figure I. After polishing both sides, polish the

Figure 1. Placing detent on a piece of cork and holding it in place with pins while filing and polishing to size.

top , shoulder and sides of the foot. This is more difficult than it appears , since the fragility of the spring and blade leave little to grasp. Again place the detent on a piece of cork or balsa and by strategically placing the pins or needles, you can polish first one area and then another by repositioning the detent and pins.

The next step , a vital one which culminates the entire procedure , is to reduce the detent spring to a desirable thickness. Average thicknesses of the spring vary from .0015 to .0030 inches, with a width of approximately .08 inches. Generally, a spring of these dimensions will be strong enough to withstand the impact and pressure of the escape wheel tooth and yet offer little resistance to the unlocking effort.

The spring is thinned with a flat steel slip charged with oilstone powder and oil. The slip must be kept perfectly flat and square while applying uniform pressure to avoid a variance in thickness. First reduce one side and then the other. Again, work on a piece of flat cork or balsa fastened

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I

I

Inch Metric Notes

A .15625 in. 4.00mm

B .11625 in. 2.48 mm

c .09375 in . 2.04 mm

D .02000 in. 0.51 mm

E .01125 in. 0.29 mm

F .04688 in . 1.19 mm

G .12500 in. 3.17 mm

H .34375 in. 8.73 mm

I .18750 in. 4.77 mm .0025 in. thick

J .06250 in. 1.59 mm .01 5 in. thick

K .31250 in. 7.49 mm .010 in. thick

L .03125 in . 0 .79 mm Pipe for jewel=Dia. of hole

M .18750 in. 4 .77 mm .008 in. thick

N 1.12500 in. 28.60 mm

0 Tapped hole for Detent Screw

p Steady Pin

Q Tapped hole for trip spring screw

R .00250 in. 0.06 mm Thickness of detent spring

s .11811 in. 3.00 mm

Table I . Chronometer Spring Detent Measurements-English Type . For 3 1/8 in. to 3 3/8 in. Diameter Movements.

to a small wooden block, either clamped to your bench or held in a vise.

When almost to size, assemble all of the component parts of the detent. Then install it in the movement and check to see if (1) it returns the locking jewel back to the proper position so as to arrest and hold the escape wheel (2) it is also able to resist, without twisting or buckling, the force of the escape wheel, and (3) that after the escapement has been unlocked, the locking jewel returns quickly enough to lock the oncoming escape wheel tooth.

After these conditions have been satisfied, remove the detent and polish the spring with a softer slip (zinc, tin, boxwood) charged with diamontine or its equivalent. Be certain that a clean piece of cork or balsa wood is used to rest the detent on during the polishing operation.

When this is completed, replace the detent and observe the action of the escapement, making any adjustments deemed necessary as previously discussed under the heading of setting up the escapement. See Figure 2.

As previously mentioned, at the Observatory a number of chronometers which came in for repairs required a new detent. We found that if we made detents to the fol-

42 Horological Times/ October 19 79

Inch Metric Notes

A .10236 in. 2.60mm

B .07736 in. 1.96 mm

c .04688 in. 1.19 mm

D .02000 in. 0.51 mm

E .01125 in. 0.29 mm

F .03125 in . 0.80 mm

G .07111 in. 1.83 mm

H .21875 in. 5.55 mm

I .17188 in. 4 .37 mm .002 in. thick

J .04688 in. 1.19 mm .01 5 in. thick

K .21875 in. 5.55 mm .010 in. thick

L .03125 in . 0.80 mm Pipe for jewel=Dia. of hole

M .25000 in. 6.35 mm .008 in. thick

N .93751 in. 23.81 mm

0 Tapped hole for Detent Screw

p Steady Pin

Q Tapped hole for trip spring screw

R .00250 in . 0 .06 mm Thickness of detent spring

s .10630 in. 2.70 mm

Table 2. Chronometer Spring Detent Measurements-English Type. For 2 1/4 in . to 2 3/4 in . Diameter Movements.

Figure 2. Finished Chronometer Spring Detent

lowing dimensions, they would fit most chronometers employing the English style detent with just a little additional adjustment. In the English style detent, movements measured from 3 1/8 to 3 3/8 inches in diameter, and from 2 1/4 to 2 3/4 inches in diameter. See Figure 3 and Tables I and II. Figures 4 and 5 illustrate the mounting block described for the above detent. 0

N

J L

II( H • .... I ..,../ ... K~~ M .....

~P /o

t A

~

'\ ! 1---i

J ~ ~ ~

t ut I l B c - ~ + ~ '\ ~ . \ \ Q ~ "" E 0 D

i c:-::. - - - _}:::_;.:L- --

T B T A

t c !----'-----!j_ I+- s -+1

Figure 3. Chronometer Spring Detent-English Type. For 3 1/8 to 3 3/8 in. & 2 1/4 to 2 3/4 in. Diameter Movements.

Steady Pin Hole

Mounting Block Screw Hole

.050 in.

Figure 4. Chronometer Spring Detent Mounting Block-Top View .

. 1875 in .. 125 in .. 1875 in . .300 in .

r~+- ~ -4j- .075 in. radius

v: . I I

' ' I I 0 I 0

Note: Positions of the holes are determined after placement of detent.

T .150 in .

_j_ I I I I

~ 375 ;n.+~750 ;n J f I I I I I I I'

.100 in. _j_

u u Cut here for two

Figure 5. Chronometer Spring Detent Mounting Block-Side View.


~~~~~ CMW CMC FBHI

The Collection of Harry H. Blum

Watches Since 1630 The earliest specimen in this collection is a watch in an elegant enameled case which was originally the possession of the German emperor, Frederick the Great. This watch is one of many of this type in the collection. A group of enameled watches painted by the brothers Ruaud of Geneva displays the luscious mythological love scenes which were the fashion of the 17th century. Representative of the 18th century are two particularly brilliant examples of watches in combination with snuff boxes. One is English, built up in gold and agate, richly studded with diamonds, and containing several compartments for the watch and various kinds of snuff and perfume. In the other, a French Rococo snuff box, the watch movement is connected with the two dials located under the cover, and has a special crystal in the center which reveals a diamond-studded balance wheel.

The invention of the portable watch is ascribed to a German locksmith of the early 16th century, although it has been ascertained that similar watches were constructed in France at about the same time. However, the innovation involving use of a spring to put in motion a train of wheels (as opposed to using a weight as the driving power) swept through Europe soon after the invention of the original portable watch. It is known that as early as 1527, Martin Luther was given such a watch as a gift, and in 1536 Henry VIII presented a similar watch to his second wife, Anne Boleyn.

In the Blum Collection, though the very earliest examples of watchmaking are not included, the development of the portable watch-in terms of both mechanical and artistic design-can be traced for the last three hundred years. It is only

44 Horological TimeciOctober 1979

Figure 1.

Shield-shaped Watch

Enamel, pearls and diamond-studded balance

Swiss-about 1800

Movement by Antoine Moil let & Co., Geneva

Figure 2.

Repeating Watch

Gold, diamonds and enamel

French or Swiss-early 19th century

within the last hundred years that the watch has been considered pri-marily as a timepiece. Formerly, it was either treasured as a piece of jewelry or a curiosity. In the earliest examples, one finds the chasing and engraving on vari-colored gold, the pierced cases adorned with foliage and animals often set in precious stones which came into fashion during the 18th century. In somewhat later examples, one finds the elaborate use of pearls which are indicative of the period around 1800. The shape of the earliest watches was cylindrical, but with the invention of the hairspring, the thinness of the timepiece was lost. This slimness was achieved again in the late 18th century, and the delicacy of the thin movements conceived in that era rivals the art of watchmaking today. The 19th century , with its Victorian taste, produced watches in the shapes of mandolins, harps, tulips, insects and other forced forms which went out of style only within the last fifty years.

The perfection achieved by European goldsmiths, lapidaries , engravers, enamelers, jewelers and watchmakers during the last three hundred years is beautifully evidenced in this collection.

Figure 4.

Circular Watch

Silver dial and enameled paintings

English, about 1700

Movement by Langley Bradley, London

"In the Blum Collection, though the very earliest

examples of watchmaking are not included,

the development of the portable watch - 'l·n terms

of both mechanical and artistic de~ign - can be

traced for the last three hundred years."

Figure 3.

Etui Watch

Gold and enamel

French (?)-late 18th century

October 1979/Horological Tim es 45

Figure 6.

Enameled Watch w ith Mythologica l Scenes

Engl ish, second quarter 17th century

Movement by David (?) Bouguet, London

46 Horological Times /October 1979

"It is only within the last hundred years that the watch has been considered primarily as a timepiece. Formerly, it was either treasured as a piece of jewelry or a curiosity.''

Figure 5 .

Enameled Watch with Mythological Scenes

Probably French , about 1650

Movement by Auguste Bretoneau, Paris

BENCH TIPS with Joe Crooks

Use Your Loupe Upside down too!

The first tip this month is from that dynamic, super-salesman, watchmaker Wes Door, CMW. (Products By Door, 2214 West 4th Ave., Kennewich, WA 99336.) I honestly believe he could sell an air conditioner to an Eskimo if the thought crossed his mind.

Dear Joe, I really enjoy your Bench Tip column and hope you

can use the following simple idea for a "Tritium Dark Room." Most watchmakers already have one and don't even know it!

We now have two types of LCD watches; those with a night light operated by pushing a button, and those with the tritium, which automatically shows the numbers after dark.

Without turning the lights off, you can use the following method to determine if your customer's watch is tritium and if so, you can clearly read the display: Take your black solid "double" eye loupe (7x is best) and lay this loupe upside down over the LCD watch display. This will "block" out the light and by looking through the Loupe (from this wrong end), you will be able to see the green tritium and black numbers, and in focus, too!

Also, if you are selling LCD watches, use this method to show both the tritium and/or night light types.

Try it. It works! Now let your customer see, too!

BEWARE OF SUPER GLUE FUMES IN A WATCH! This tip was passed on to us from a watchmaker who wishes to remain anonymous for obvious reasons.

After "dust proofmg" a diamond watch by coating the diamonds on the inside of the bezel with aron alpha cement, I snapped the case together and the next morning the watch was stopped. Upon examining the ~movement which I had just cleaned and oiled, to my horror I found that the oil had solidified from the fumes of the cement.

It took three hours of pegging, scraping, scrubbing, brushing, and cussing to remove the contaminated oil. I

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L ou.pe

WATCH ~

haven't had such a problem since the old days when watch oil was made with a whale oil base and I had a "lady" customer who bathed in perfume. Modern synthetic oils solved that problem.

Since most watchmakers now use some type of fast-drying cement for all kinds of jobs, I want them to be aware of what can happen if they do not let the cement dry completely before a movement is placed in the case.

Strange as it may seem, the cement fumes did not affect the blue one step plastic lube I use. It only affected the balance jewels, cannon pinion, and other parts where I used watch oil.

Send your tips to "Jingle Joe" Crooks, 265 N. Main St., Mooresville, NC 28115.

Send in Those Bench Tips! October 1979/Horological Times 47

Otto Benesh, CMC

''fi\Llltti ©!979

'-'ti~TTE~'' (all rights reserved by the author)

Let's do something different this month. How about making a calendar date ring? See Figure 1. These calendars usually show through an aperture on a brass dial (Figure 2) but were often removed and the aperture covered over with a solderedon piece of brass. I suspect that many of these rings were removed by clockmakers (?) who employed such reasomng as "The clock will run better without it and you really don't n;cd a calendar on your clock." It is true that when the calendar mechanism is out of order due to wear or misuse, it can be a definite source of trouble and often the reason for stoppage. How many times have you seen the lifting finger or pin moved or bent into odd positions? However, the cost of repairs or a lack of knowledge concerning the operation were perhaps other reasons for removal of the calendar mechanism. Figure 3 shows a couple of rings that I acquired from the collection of an old-time clockmaker. How he got them I do not know, but I am sure he was not the vandal that removed them.

The calendar ring is one of the more interesting gears found in clockworks. It is internally toothed and as such presents some difficulties if it is to be made using the lathe and milling attachments-particularly in terms of holding and securing. One of the first difficulties we run into is that the diameter of the ring is beyond the capacity of the average lathe or gear cutter found in repair shops. The usual size of the ring for a longcased clock (grandfather) is about six inches in diameter. But, let us not despair. We will make one using hand methods.

Figure 4 shows the ring in positiOn resting on its two rollers with the detent at the top. The detent is rivetted

The Calendar Ring


Figure 1.

and is capable of being twisted to one side so that the ring can be removed when necessary. Often the rollers are missing and will have to be made, but this is a simple turning and drilling procedure and should present no problem. You will note that the calendar ring does not have the same center as the hour wheel. At this point I suggest that a drawing be made for reference and for working out the dimensions required. Figure 5 is a drawing showing the relationship of the several pieces. "C" is the center for the hour wheel and its pinion. With a pinion of 24 we require a month wheel of 48 so that two turns of the pinion (12 hour increments) give one turn of the month wheel thereby changing the calendar ring once a day at midnight. "C"' is the cent~r for the _calendar ring. Using the aperture as a reference pomt, the vanous diameters of the ring can be established. For example, on a center line, find the point that will allow a circle to be scribed passing through the bottom point of the aperture plus about two millimeters and just touching the operating edges of the rollers. This will give you the outer diameter

Figure 2.

Figure 3.

Figure 5.

of the ring. Once this is established, the other diameters can be determined with case. Figure 6 shows an actual layout and dimensions for a calendar ring.

The next problem is laying out the positions of the 31 teeth required for the ring which correspond to the 31 days in a long month.

If you divide 360° (a full circle) by 31 you get 11.612°. For simplification, you can use II 1/2° which can be laid out with a protractor. The slight difference in degrees will be compensated for when we mark the ring for engraving. If you set out lines 11 1/2° apart radiating from a center point you can lay various sized rings on it and mark off the divisions. It is a good tool to keep. Before we go any further, let's decide how to cut the ring to outer and inner diameters.

Obviously we can take our trusty piercing saw in hand and cut , but unless you have a lot of practice the outer edge will not always come out in the most circular shape. In the past, clockmakers were equipped with a pair of dividers with a coned (trumpet) end on one leg and a cutter on the

Figure 4 .

Figure 6.

other. By scribing the circle repeatedly, they cut through the brass which is usually two millimeters thick. These dividers are no longer available and would have to be made up . Some years ago I developed a substitute for them by using a fairly large hole cutter , modified as shown in Figure 7. The cone-shaped center was made to replace the twist drill that come with the tool, and the cutter angle was made a bit steeper. This tool will cut an eight inch circle with ease and can be turned by hand or by using a brace. It sometimes helps to turn the piece of brass over and cut from both sides.

Speaking of the old-time clockmakers, they generally had a supply of cast brass rings that were used in making calendar rings. If you can locate the services of a brass caster or foundry you will have found a wonderful source of material. All you have to do is send a wood pattern.

All of the brass in the older clocks was cast and, while there were differences in the quality, the most impor-


October 1979/Homlogical Times 49

AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN

By Robert F. Bishop

One of the problems facing the modern-day watchmaker is the high cost of material. Last year the Affiliate Chapters recommended to the AWl Board of Directors that a study be made of the reasons for the high cost of material. Many felt that some repair jobs were being priced out of the market, and that something should be done. AWl responded, and at the Affiliate Chapter meeting in June of this year, John Cassedy, President of the Watch Material and Jewelry Dealers Association, and· President of the Cas-Ker Co., prominent Cincinnati material house, presented a report on material prices. In essence, he made the following points:

I. Because of Federal law, Mr. Cassedy could not speak as the president of WMJDA regarding prices. Dealers are not even allowed to discuss prices among themselves , for fear of charges of price fixing. He spoke only as an individual, representing one company.

2. The dollar devaluation has caused most of the price increase. Most material is Swiss, and in the last five years, the Swiss franc has more than doubled. Other currencies have shown similar increases in the same period. Due to efficient management, his company has been able to hold its price increases to less than the devaluation of the dollar.

3. One company has eliminated the dozen price in order to hold the quarter dozen and unit prices within reason .

4. The high price of most electronic components and some sub-assemblies of mechanical watches are the manufacturers policy, over which the jobber has no control.

5. By asking the manufacturer for a cost audit, dealers can and do have an influence on prices of individual items which they feel are grossly overpriced. In many cases, the audit has shown an error, and the price has been reduced on that item.

6. The dealer can set his own price on most material. Mr. Cassedy suggested trying another dealer if you feel prices are too high. Some dealers can offer lower prices by carrying a smaller inventory and offering less service.

7. Some jobbers believe that, in the past, some watch manufacturers subsidized their warranty service costs by the profits from material sales. In the era of simple

stem-wind watches, warranty costs were low. Today, however, the complicated mechanical and sophisticated electronic watches have increased the warranty cost greatly. If the watch manufacturer is still following this policy, it cannot help but have an effect on parts prices. (It means that the independent watchmaker is helping pay for a company business expense which I believe should be charged to cost of sales. [RB] ).

It was Mr. Cassedy's opinion that the average increases in all the items in the watch repair area are no more or less than those of the economy in general in this period of inflation. This may be true, but there are many prices which, to the average watchmaker, seem to defy explanation. For example, why is material for the PUW 800 (used in the Caravelle 1160 series) listed as grade 2? Why is the H. Becker 80 (used in inexpensive watches) rated as grade 3? Why does a name brand gold-filled dustproof crown cost $3.80, while a "generic" of equal gold content and appearance sells for $1.10? Why is the ESA 9362 circuit designed so that if the cell contact should break, the complete circuit board must be purchased and at a cost of around $60.00? These and many other similar questions arise whenever watchmakers get together, but the answers rarely appear.

Another area of interest to watchmakers is the availability of reconditioned quartz analog and digital movements on an exchange basis by the material dealer. I realise that the manufacturer feels something must be done to alleviate the service problems of his product, and that the exchange price (about $20.00 for the analog ESA) represents an average cost of repairs needed, but AWl and others have made great efforts to train and convince the watchmaker that he should become involved with the repair of these watches as a profit item. It will be hard for the watchmaker to compete at these prices, when he has to buy those expensive parts.

I see no solutions on the horizon, but it will help if we can communicate; share our problems with the jobber and the manufacturer and most importantly, with the customer. After all, he is paying the ultimate bill. Try to make him understand that you are not taking advantage of him.

0

The High Cost of Material


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TEXAS

On September 9th, memters of the Texas Watchmakers Association, Inc. and their families enjoyed fun, games, prizes, and good food at a Bar-B-Que and Bingo Party. Bingo prizes were donated by the Stanley Donahue Company; Kurtz, Inc.; and members. The Grand Prize was a $50.00 gift certificate from Sears and Roebuck.

Miss Sandy Morey and Miss Candace Pitchford are shown holding almost 80 pounds of old watch batteries that were collected by the Texas Watchmakers of Houston to be sent to A WI for the ELM Trust Fund. At the time this picture was made both Sandy and Candace were students at the Houston Technical

Drawer A P.O. Box 2347

College of Watch Repair, but since that time Candace has graduated and is employed by Channelview Jewelry .

FLORIDA

August I I th brought A WI's Howard Opp, of Chillicothe, Ohio to Lakeland to instruct a bench course on the Bulova 242 SMQ. Saturday Evening the FSWA Board of Directors got together for the third annual meeting. Plans were made for the 34th convention which will be held October 27 and 28 at the Treasure

Ciilcinnati Ohio 45201

Phone [513]241-7074

Island Inn, Daytona Beach Shores, Florida.

An all day seminar was held on Sunday, August I 2th with about fifty watchmakers attending. On the program were Sun coast Guild president, Joe Erlenwein with "Chalk Talk," offering some interesting bench tips; Mr. Joe Liebman, past president, who showed a film on clocks designed for use at group meetings; and Mr. Henry Frystak, with a sore throat, talked all afternoon about Bulova. (If that isn't dedication, then what is)? The watchmakers learned about Bulova's Men's 245, Ladies' 246, 2577 analog SMQ alarm, and for the first time ever shown, the Ladies' 5 Iigne, 2500 step motor quartz. All attending certainly appreciated the Bulova Watch Company for sending Mr. Henry Frystak, the AWl for Mr. Opp, and the educational programs available to us.

The guilds of the FSWA had their regular meetings in September after a two month vacation.

NEW JERSEY

New Jersey Watchmakers Association resumed its regular monthly meetings in September with a presentation by Citizens Watch Company.

Featured speaker on Tuesday, October 9th was Robert Moengen of Jewel-


mont Corporation, Minneapolis, Minnesota, one of the country's largest material supply houses. A past president of Minnesota Watchmakers, he gave J ersey members the benefit of his 20 years of experience in the business.

In November, N JW A will keep to tradition and hold their annual dinner dance, but this one will be a very special occasion because it celebrates the club's 40th Anniversary. Dinner dance chairman is Vince Pacchiana of New Brunswick. The affair will be held at Big Stash's Restaurant in Linden which is famous for its buffet.

NORTH CAROLINA

The Triangle Guild met at the Rogers Restaurant in Cary for a meal and afterwards finalized the plans for their annual family picnic scheduled for September.

The Cape Fear Guild met at the Western Sizzlin Steak House in Fayetteville for dinner with their wives. They held a general discussion in lieu of a technical program.

The Unifour Guild· met at the Hungry Bull Steakhouse in Hickory for dinner and afterwards had a program from AWl by Wes Door entitled "Let's Repair Quartz."

The Coastal Plain Guild met at Wayne Community College in Goldsboro. They had as guest speaker, Mr. Owen Dewar of Durham. Mr. Dewar presented a program and demonstration of a gem meter. A flyer from B. Jadow covering the planned microfiche material system was shown and discussed.

The Piedmont Crescent Guild met in Charlotte. Among the items included in their program were a discussion of the microfiche material system planned by B. J a dow, a decision to leave the prices of their movement exchange program at $5.00 per part or $10.00 per movement, and a discussion of the Seiko quartz movement that jumps two seconds at a move when the battery gets weak. To conclude the program Mr. Roy Harris gave a humorous dissertation on "The Prices of 'The Good Old Days' Versus The Prices of Today."

CALIFORNIA

The 1979 Bay Area Watchmakers Guild Trade Show attracted nearly a hundred Bay Area watchmakers and guests. Interesting displays and merchandise made this year's trade show an informative and interesting event. Watch, clock, and gift certificates were given away by Omichron, Longines, Fried & Field, Portescap, Hadley Kalbe, and the R .&J. Company.

Trade Show drawing winners were Don Green, Wittnauer watch; Rugee


Jim Crane of Portescap demonstrating equipment to Larry Ba!<er.

John Frei and Steve Frei of Otto Frei & Jules Borel.

Mr. John Grass discussing watches with Citizen Watch Company's Maurice Burger.

Anderson and Ed Hitchcock, Seiko clocks; Pat Berg, Hadley Kalbe band; and G.W. Burger, Miracle Lube. Fried & Field battery certificates were received by Dolores Janss, Bob and Allie Czomba, Joe Sainz, and B.K. Bieker. R.&J. battery certificates were received by Herb Todd and P.I. Buckmunster.

The Bay Area Watchmakers Guild was proud to present Francois Giradet and Jay Foreman as speakers at the Monterey meeting ~m September 22 and 23. The seminar took place at the Double Tree Inn in Monterey, California on Saturday and Sunday afternoon.

This was an oppurtunity for Bay Area watchmakers to learn about the technology and business of watchmaking from the men who are instrumental in this business. Francois Giradet is a vice president of WOSIC and Jay Foreman is the owner of the House of Clocks and is the Horological Editor for the Pacific Goldsmith. Both are skilled watchmakers and articulate speakers. Saturday evening Mr. Foreman discussed "Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow in Horology ." Mr. Giradet presented "Ebauches Quartz Evolution, 1969 to 1979" on Sunday afternoon .

Saturday morning featured a golf tournament for those who were interested. Touring and other recreation was also available in Monterey.

On September 24 and 25 written and practical tests were conducted for any member of the Guild that had taken training on Bulova Accutron and wished to become qualified as a Certified Accutron Technician.

This was a two day function. It included a review session, and a written and practical examination. The twoday function was conducted in San Mateo, California, at the Dunfey Inn.

Mr. Leo Helmprecht, manager of Field Training Services, Bulova Watch Company , gave his full support to the program being conducted by the Guild. Films, training aids and movements were supplied by Bulova and the Certification exams were conducted by Mr. Calvin Sustachek of Bulova Watch Company. 0

The BAWG has been very fortunate to have Kelly Owen teaching Accutron servicing courses on Tuesday evenings in Oakland. Many of the men who were taking these courses were preparing to take the CAT Certification Program on Sept. 24th and 25th. Facilities for these courses have been provided at Ed Hitchcock's store in Oakland.

Figure 7 . Figure 8.

.__ _____________ _, Figure 9. Figure 10.~---------------------------_j

CLOCK CHATTER (Continued from page 49)

tant thing was color. However, in the case of our ring this is not of any consequence as it really does not have to match any other piece. If you do not want to make a pattern for a ring, you can always have a square of brass cast, but remember when working with cast brass that it must be hammer hardened and filed to thickness before use. If you do not have a source of cast brass, go ahead and use rolled brass.

Having divided the inner ring using the angle template, drop perpendiculars to the ring marking the depth of the teeth. This is not a critical measurement and 3.5 to 4.0 mm is quite adequate. Mark from the top of one tooth to the bottom of the next tooth using a slight curve. The teeth are cut using a piercing saw and are finished by filing and burnishing. Figure 8 is a close-up of the layout.

Having cut the ring to size and finished the teeth, the next step is to get the ring ready for engraving.

Place the ring on the dial and mount the dial on the movement. If you leave the hour wheel and pinion off you will be able to turn the month wheel freely with your fingers. Using a No. 1 (very soft) lead pencil to mark the ring, start rotating the month wheel so that its pin or finger engages a tooth of the calendar ring and moves it the full operational distance. When the pin is clear of the tooth, outline the square of the aperture on the ring and indicate the center of the square so that the number can be centered

by the engraver. See Figure 9. It is important to number the first few squares so the engraver will know which way the numbering goes. Continue marking all 31 squares. If at the end of the marking, the squares are not spaced fairly equally around the ring and the markings do not return to the same position at the second revolution of the ring, you will have to adjust the lifting pin on the month wheel and re-mark the ring. Small differences are compensated for by this individual marking. It is a good idea to mark the starting tooth on the calendar ring so the month wheel is always assembled in the same relationship to the calendar ring.

The next step is to send it to the engraver. These rings must be hand engraved and the style of the numbering is extremely important. It must be of the same period as that on the clock. The numbering is usually in Arabic and, as styles were subject to the vagaries of fashion, be sure you pick the right one. Figure 10 shows two styles, the upper one being older than the lower one which dates from about 1735.

When the ring is returned from the engraver, all that remains to be done is to silver the ring and replace it in the clock. Once again, we have made a piece in the style and method of the bygone craftsmen.

I almost forgot to mention to assemble the ring with care so that the month wheel rotates it in the proper direction when marking the squares. I have had a ring that was engraved on both sides to correct this error. Lots of ~d! 0


TECHNICALLY WATCHES

(Continued from page 35)

springs, the movement ring would compress the springs sufficiently to hold them in place and make them function correctly without these humps. This saved the time and trouble of annealing the spring to form the hump, then re-hardening the spring and re-tempering it afterwards. There are many different shapes of case springs and they all can be made to work correctly. Therefore, the shape of the spring isn't critical as long as it functions correctly. Figure 12 shows the two springs after they were altered. Figure 13 shows the lock spring in position in the case, and Figure 14 shows the lift spring in position .

before the alteration and Figure 11 shows the old and new lift springs. As can be seen, it took quite a bit of alteration to fit the springs to the case. These case springs are held in the case by the movement ring. It will be noted that the old springs had a hump in them near their center. The movement ring pressed against this hump to hold the spring in place. It was found that by making less curve in the new Next month, major watch case repair will be discussed.

0

Figure 10. Figure 11.

Figure 13.

NEW MEMBERS

ALLMAN, Jerry - Herndon, VA BACKSTROM, Charles C.-Miami, FL BARTZ, Frank-Chicago, IL BIBB , William C., Jr.-Richmond, VA BOHRER, Robert T.-lnver Grove Heights, MN BOLEMAN , Reese-Tampa, I'L BOYETT, Brian - Seattle, WA BURCHNELL. Paul-Cincinnati, OH COSSABOON, Joanne-Midlothian , VA COUCH, L.E.- Pine Bluff, AR DE BLOCK , John L.-E. Norwalk, CT DE COUX, Gene M.-Sparks, NV DEGRANGE, Bruce C.-Frederick, MD FANTETTI , Frank-Old Bridge, NJ FORTE, Paul G.-East Petersburg, PA GALE, Thomas L. - Pentwater MI GIESEKE, Stanley W.-St. Pa~l , MN HERBERT, William P.-Grosse Point, MI HESS, Jacob J .-Freeport, IL HUDSON, Helen-Dracut, MA KENNARD, Richard F.-Long Beach, CA KLINE, James J .-Clarksville, TN


KOFSKY, Harry - Norfolk, VA KOKKELER , Tim R.-Paris, TX MALONE, Dennis D.-Canoga Park, CA MANCINO , Theo.-Minneapolis, MN McDERMOTT, John J.-Paramus, NJ McVETTY, C.O.-Murfreesboro, TN MORTON, James E.-Forest, MS NAF, John J. - Orlando, FL PARTICA, Elwood H.-Selinsgrove , PA PIET, Wilbur H.-San Antonio, TX POWELL, Lisa-Okmulgee, OK

PURDY, Rolf A. - Quincy, IL ROBERTS, J.F. - New Brighton, MN ROBERTS, Maynard Lee-Paris, TX ROMO, Ernesto- Chicago, IL SANDERS , James R.-Clarksdale, MS SULLIVAN, Betty - Okmulgee, OK TERRY, Chris-Martinsville, VA WEISSFLOG , Mrs. Elvira J. - Spring, TX WILSON, S. $. - Dayton, OH WRIGLEY, Joseph F.-Fort Smith, AR

Figure 12.

Figure 14.

YOUR LETTERS ARE INVITED

We Need Your Opinions and Ideas

Send Your Letters to AWl Central, P.O. Box 11011

Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

Book Review by Henry B. Fried

The Best of J. E. Coleman: Clockmaker

536 pages, 9~ x 6 inches, over 340 illustrations. Detailed index, hard covers with dust jacket. Edited by O.R. Hagans. Pub. 7979 by American Watchmakers Institute Press at $30.00

Jesse Coleman was a clockmaker and a knowledgeable watchmaker who conducted one of the most popular and widely read departments in the trade publication The American Horologist and Jeweler. For almost thirty years, Mr. Coleman authored his column "Clockwise and Otherwise," answering inquiries from his vast store of practical knowledge and immense private library of books, pamphlets, catalogues, and instruction and service manuals. He helped provide many researchers with information to complete their theses. Mr. Coleman also conducted a voluminous correspondence with the world's leading horologists, many of whom visited his clock shop in Nashville, Tennessee. His columns covered the gamut of horological history, repair techniques, and formulas, and provided valuable diagrams, illustrations and horological hints as well.

Coleman, despite a fair acedemic training, (he attended Middle State Teachers College before his Navy enlistment in WWI) retained an intimate, down-home style of writing. As an enlisted Navy youngster, he served as Norman Rockwell's model for the thin naval recruit who stands with two others representing the Army and Marines in one of Rockwell's most famous paintings. He told me that he continued to correspond with the famed American illustrator and artist up until the time when Coleman became inactive due to emphysema.

Now, four years after Mr. Coleman's death, his friend and one-time publisher of the American Horologist and Jeweler, Orville R. Hagans, has painstakingly compiled the best and most pertinent material written by Mr. Coleman. This covers all types of clocks, watches, tools, troubles, instructions and formulas. The result is a veritable encyclopedia of practical, historical horology-much of which is not found in any other volume.

Mr. Coleman was a persistent, thorough researcher and the results of his many projects can be found in this book. An excellent index of almost a thousand items guides one through this huge collection of data on clocks and watches, their history and identification. Among the more than three hundred illustrations are exploded views of rare clock mechanisms, striking train layouts, electric clock photos, calendar mechanisms, and patent applications. Also included are the exclusive photos of old American and European clocks which Coleman photographed personally, and musical and chime clock data and escapement layouts from his own draftsman's table.

While the book is predominently clock oriented, its size and scope allow for a goodly portion of watch infor-

mation as well. Watches were certainly not neglected by Coleman in his original columns and this book contains a rich store of rare information. Rare American watches are shown, the text embellished with factual data. Among these are the products of Tobias history, the Waterbury Watch Company, the Otay Watch Company, Aurora, the Priors, patent explanations, the Non-Magnetic Watch Company, J. P. Stevens, the Jurgensens, Trenton, Peoria, and Columbis. We find the true story behind watch sizes, watch tools, all types of mainsprings and the more familiar American and European watches.

This Coleman collection is not a hodgepodge of random information. Mr . Hagans, avoiding repetition, has wisely separated all the best and most pertinent of Coleman's writings, organized them into twenty-three chapters and has carefully provided an index of a thousand items in this five hundred and thirty-six page exposition. Thus the book provides needed information quickly and precisely.

In the table of contents, the editor has created twenty-three departments. Among these are General Information, Watch Information, Clock Data, Identification and History, Mainsprings and Hairsprings, Pendulums of all types, (natural, compound, conical, Focault) Cleaning, Lubrication, Clock Building and Rebuilding, General Repair, Gearing, Chimes, Escapements, Battery Clocks, Electric Clocks, Cuckoo Clocks, Ship's Bell Clocks, Grandfather Clocks, Wood Clocks, and 400 Day Clocks.

Within these chapte• s can be found such varied and interesting topics as the details of the tandem-barreled Boston Clock Company's movements, various gravity clocks, ultrasonic cleaning, lacquering of plates, conical and Focault pendulum construction, compound, torsion and various pendulum forms and formulas and charts. The section on ship's bell clocks includes the underslung bell Seth Thomas, the cantankerous Waterbury, Chelsea, the German-made Seth Thomas, as well as battery powered ship's bell strikers. In· eluded also are Schatz and Bulova ship's bell timepieces.

With the publication of this book it will no longer be necessary to spend hours searching through endless copies of the old magazines for which he wrote to chance upon Coleman's solutions to rare, sought-after information. The book is well put together and the editors, realizing that this volume will be a much thumbed-through reference, have supplied it with good, strong binding, hard covers and durable paper stock. This reviewer recommends it most highly to the novice, collector, professional watch and clock collector and professional watch and clock repairer. To any resea~cher in the field of horology, this book is a MUST. 0

(See Ad on Page 17)


News In The Trade

Pulsar Accepted as Member of The Jewelers Board of Trade

Pulsar Time, Inc., producer of Pulsar high-quality men's and ladies' quartz watches, has been accepted as a member of The Jewelers Board of Trade.

At special ceremonies at the company's newly established national headquarters, Pulsar management received a bronze plaque designating it as the 2,000th member of this, the only credit organization serving the jewelry industry nationwide.

The selection of Pulsar Time, Inc., for membership marks another milestone. Pulsar began marketing its initial line of popularly priced quartz watches only six months ago, with immediate success in fine jewelry and department stores in each of its markets. Its acceptance for membership in The Jewelers Board of Trade in so short a time is further reflection of the company's growing stature in the watch business.

A delegation of Jewelers Board of Trade officers and directors presenting the plaque to Arthur Schwartz, Pulsar president, and Oscar Scherzer, the company's credit manager were: Bob Paul, secretary-treasurer; Raymond F. Lord, Jr., vice-president; and Frank F. Papa, manager of the New York metropolitan area office.

The Jewelers Board of Trade, headquartered in Providence, RI, is the result of the consolidation of several large credit organizations in the jewelry field, with combined experience and activity dating back to 18 7 5. Membership includes manufacturers, wholesalers, and importers. It is a mutual co-operative association providing highly specialized credit service to its members-and promotes the general welfare of the jewelry industry.

REGIONAL MEETING NAWCC

The second Rocky Mountain Regional Meeting was held in Colorado Springs , CO, Aug. 9-12 at the Four Seasons Motor Inn. Attendance was over 300.

National President of NAWCC,

56 Horological Tim es/October 1979

Bob Paul, (left) secretary-treasurer of The Jewelers Board of Trade, presents a special bronze plaque to Arthur Schwartz, (right) president of Pulsar Time, Inc., and Oscar Scherzer, (center) Pulsar's credit manager, signifying the quartz watch company's selection as the 2,000th member of the organization.

Left to Right-J.W. Simmons, President NAWCC; Howard Neal, President Chapter No . 1 00; John Neal, Past President Chapter No. 100 & Regional Chairman; Orville R. Hagans, Immediate Past President AWl.

J.W. Simmons and his wife were present and enjoyed the Western hospitality.

The Mart was well ,attended and two excellent lectures were presented. Mr. Archie B. Perkins, CMW, presented slides and a lecture on gear cutting and Mr. Verbon Waggoner presented an interesting lecture on "History of Music Boxes."

An unscheduled incident occurred during the banquet Aug. lOth. Orville R. Hagans celebrated another milestone with over 190 people present. According to the candles on the cake he is only 4 7 years young, but what a smoke screen was created in blowing out those 4 7 candles!

Love of life, people, and accomplishment is his and Josephine's enjoyment. Try it. You will like it - it contributes to youth and happiness.

SWEST NOW ACCEPTS VISA/MASTER CHARGE

Swest, Inc., a leading supplier of tools, supplies and equipment to the jewelry industry announced that it now accepts VISA and MASTERCHARGE credit cards. Earl R. Weaver, president of Swest, Inc., said, "This new policy was instituted because of popular demand, and will enable our customers without 30-day accounts to make purchases more quickly and easily." The cards may be used at all three Swest offices in Dallas and San Antonio, Texas and Glendale, California. As Mr. Weaver also pointed out, "Use of these credit cards will eliminate the COD charges incurred by some of our customers, or the necessity to do business by cashin-advance terms."

For further information contact Swest, Inc., 10803 Composite Drive, Dallas, Texas, 75220; 431 Isom Road, San Antonio, Texas, 78216; 1725 Victory Boulevard, Glendale, California, 91201.

UNION CARBIDE'S BATTERY PRODUCTS DIVISION NAMES MARKETING MANAGER

The appointment of E. Barclay Smith as marketing manager responsible for "Eveready" watch batteries and lithium batteries has been announced by the Battery Products Division of Union Carbide Corporation.

Mr. Smith, who joined Union Carbide in 19 57, has recently returned from assignment with Union Carbide Europe, Inc., in Geneva, Switzerland, where he has been serving as general manager, consumer products. As marketing manager he will be responsible for planning and organizing the promotion of the wide variety of "Eveready" watch and clock batteries marketed by Union Carbide, the world's leading producer of dry cell batteries.

MORE THAN TWO MILLION PEOPLE SEE FILM "TIME ON YOUR HANDS"

More than two million people in the United Kingdom viewed the ASUAGsponsored film, "TIME ON YOUR HANDS" during its cinema run between April and July.

The film, produced by Global Films Limited, was the supporting feature with Neil Simon's "California Suite," which won an Oscar for actress Maggie Smith.

According to researched cinema audience patterns, the film, which deals with the history, present, and future of the Swiss watch industry, was viewed by an estimated 2.2 million people. The majority-more than 800,000-were in the 18-24 age group.

The audience breakdown shows that more than 300,000 in the 16-17 age group, over half a million in the 25-34, and another half million in the 35-and-over age groups also saw the picture.

In addition, "Time On Your Hands" was shown in the five United Kingdom cities of Bristol, Glasgow, Leeds, Manchester and Birmingham to retail jewellers during a series of Swiss Watch Evenings held during the first six months of this year.

"Time On Your Hands" was made in order to demonstrate the immense changes in timekeeping, particularly in recent years, with considerable emphasis on the utilization of quartz and microcircuit technology.

The film is made available to retailers for showing to their staff or for use in their training programs. Copies on loan may be obtained by writing

E. Barclay Smith

to ASUAG Film, PPR International Ltd., Greater London House, Hampstead Road, LONDON NW1 7QP.

RJA'S FEBRUARY SHOW: "MOVING INTO THE EIGHTIESWHAT'S IN STORE?"

"Moving Into the Eighties ... What's In Store?" is the theme set by Retail Jewelers of America (RJA) for its 1980 Spring International Jewelry Trade Show and Conference, scheduled for Sunday, February 3, through Wednesday, February 6, 1980, at the Sheraton Center and New York Hilton Hotels, New York City.

"The 'Eighties' loom as probably the most complex and competitive decade ever faced by jewelers," comments RJA Chairman Michael D. Roman. "In addition to the growing competition in the marketplace, there are some 'space age' problems the industry must face and overcome. Energy ... security ... rising costs. These factors have created a slackening of the number of salesmen visiting a store with a new line. How does the jeweler find out what's new?

Gas shortages ... governmentregulated store temperatures ... inflation. These problems discourage consumer traffic. What can a jeweler do to overcome these obstacles and attract customers?

RJA's February Show will mark the launching of RJA's program to help jewelers move into the Eighties by identifying the problems and defining methods for coping with them."

RJA Trade Show Director, Mort Abelson commented, "Approximately 1,000 exhibitors will give jewelers the opportunity to shop, compare, and buy

what's best for their stores in time for the Spring gift-giving season."

"Many jewelers have learned to use the February Show as their 'test market,' " adds Abelson. "They purposely seek out new suppliers and new styles, and try them out in the Spring. By the time they are ready to commit for Fall and Christmas buying, they know which of their new choices are 'hot' and which ones are not. It gives them vital costsaving input for their biggest season."

According to Roman, an important Conference program is being planned, as well as two seminars on subjects vital to jewelry store managers and owners. Details of these will be announced in the coming weeks.

SEIKO ANNOUNCES LARGEST FALL SPOT T.V. AND PRINT CAMPAIGN IN THE COMPANY'S HISTORY

Seiko Time Corporation announced the largest Fall spot T.V. and print consumer advertising campaign in its history. Two new commercials will be aired in over 120 markets for eight weeks beginning October 1. One commercial will feature Seiko's new men's ultra-thin dress analog quartz watches. The other will highlight the new Seiko ladies' ultra-thin dress analog quartz. All of these spot commercials will be store-tagged in each local market.

Prime time spot commercials will be added at the height of the Christmas shopping season-from Noverber 22 to December 19 on such highly rated programs as Monday Night Football; 60 Minutes; 20/20; Tom Snyder; The Lou Grant Show; and Quincy, among others. Both the men's and ladies' T.V. commercials will again be run in over 120 markets.

Seiko has scheduled a total of more than 16,000 of these local T.V. spots for the fourth quarter flights.

Reinforcing these T.V. commercials will be dramatic, full color doublepage spreads on Seiko 's men's and ladies' analog quartz watches, furthering the impact of the T.V. flight. These will appear in multiple insertions in Life, Newsweek, and The New Yorker during November and December. Additional advertising support will include a comprehensive in-store holiday display program and promotional point-of-sales aids.

D


New Products

New Quartz-Timer E A new, compact precision timing instrument, Quartz-Timer E, which accurately tests all types of quartz watches is now being marketed to all watchmakers and jewelers by L&R Manufacturing Company of Kearny, New Jersey.

The Quartz-Timer E is a tested, tried, and user-tested unit that is accurate to within .01 s/day, and has a measuring range of .±00 to .±199 seconds per month. The Quartz-Timer E tests watches with quartz frequencies of 32.768 kHz, 786.432 kHz, 4.194304 MHz, by merely placing the watch on the unit, selecting the frequency, and checking the LED display which is inclined toward the user for easy reading. High precision is assured by a thermally stabilized time base 1 x 10-7 from 50°F (10°C) to 113°F (45°C). A built-in standby circuit allows the unit to be continuously ready for maximum precision operation.

The Quartz-Timer E is only 10 5/8 in. widex 7 1/4 in.deepx 2 3/8 in. high and operates on 110V and 220V AC.

Handcrafted Fine Clocks Feature Hardwood Movements

If you need a fine clock to accent any decor, check with R. Jesse Morley, Cabinetmaker, of Westwood, MA. He designs and builds one-of-a-kind traditional and contemporary clocks in wall, shelf, and floor models.

R. Jesse Morley handcrafts fine chiming and striking clocks using either his exclusive, handmade hardwood movements with fruitwood gears, or highest quality brass movements imported from West Germany. Trimmed with the finest brass hardware available, the cabinetry is artfully constructed from woods carefully selected for their perfect grain patterns.

Each R. Jesse Morley fine clock is one of a kind, built especially to customer requirements and exacting standards. Clock dials are hand painted


or pierced and engraved; wood stains are specially mixed; and woodwork is hand-waxed or oiled. Woods frequently used include walnut, cherry, oak, teak, pine, and mahogany. Kinetic sculptures can also be created.

R. Jesse Morley fine clocks are priced according to design, movement, size, and materials. Literature is available on request.

Glass Replacement Watch Crystals

The BB Watch Crystal Co. announces the August 1979 Assortment of 48 new glass replacement watch crystals. These new numbers are especially important at a time when more and more new models are issued with glass crystals as original equipment. These crystals are available from your watch material wholesaler or the BB Watch Crystal Company at 653 11th Ave., New York, NY 10036.

JTK-87 Drawing/Drafting Kit

Jensen Tools Inc. has introduced a handsome, practical Drawing/Drafting Kit in a padded zipper case. Designated the JTK-87, this new kit features a complete assortment of essential drawing/drafting aids with extra room for papers, schematics, plans and notebooks.

Featured in this 15 X 1 n~ in. custom-fitted case is a versatile Draftette drafting machine which serves as a combination drawing board, T-Square, triangle, and 360° protractor all in one! In addition, the JTK-87 contains a 4 x 6 in. engineering scale attachment, a professional architects triangular scale, a set of three French curves, two triangles, stencils, three mechanical drafting pencils, four fineline pens, scissors, artist's knife and tweezers.

To order, or for a free catalog describing more than 2,000 hard-to-find tools as well as other Jensen tool kits,

write: Jensen Tools Inc., 1230 South Priest Drive, Tempe, AZ 85281 or call (602) 968-6231.

Ferrari From Hamilton

The knurled coin edge on its brightly polished bezel, and the classical styling of its shaped water resistant case are highlights of Hamilton Watch Company's new Ferrari XI Day 'N Date man's quartz watch.

The movement has an English and Spanish day di;c. The dial features stick markers, an open minute track, and luminous accents on the hands and above the markers.

The yellow micron plated Ferrari Xi's suggested retail price is $265.00.

Two New LC Digital Quartz Standard Sectional Chronograph Watches Introduced By Seiko

Two new stainless steel LC Digital Quartz st~ndard sectional chronograph watches have been introduced by Seiko Time Corporation for the Fall selling season.

The new watches will display either the Standard Lap time or Sectional Lap time and the total accumulated time simultaneously. This feature makes these new advanced chronographs ideal for timing racing events in all sports and has been popularized by car racing driver professionals as "Taylor Split."

The new Seiko chronographs feature a continuous readout on a 12-hour basis, minutes, seconds, day of week, date and month. In the chronograph mode, it records hours, minutes and seconds up to 12 hours, with a 1/100th second readout for the initial 20 minutes and Standard Lap time or Sectional Lap time capabilities.

Both timepieces feature Seiko's exclusive "Hard lex" mar-resist crystals, built-in illumination system for easy readability, a battery life indicator, and are water tested to 100 feet (30 meters). With matching bracelets, model GD009M has a black dial frame; mate GD011 M has a blue dial frame. Each at a suggested retail price of $165.00

New Citizen Quartz Calculator and Multi-Alarm II

The Citizen Quartz Calculator has been developed in response to recent market inclinations toward the multi-function

digital watch. In addition to the conventional time/calendar function, this epochmaking digital watch incorporates an 8-digit calculator function equal to the ordinary electronic desk calculator plus alarm and stopwatch functions. The Citizen-original two-level simultaneous display system is applied: the upper level displays the time, the calendar, the alarm set time, and the stopwatch time respectively; the lower level shows the 8-digit calculation display. Each function of the upper level is displayed independently from the calculator function of the lower level, so they can be seen at one time to the best advantage.

The design features a square watchcase of an electronic desk calculator type with an arrangement of square push-buttons, thus ensuring easy operation of the calculator as well as a refined external appearance.

The digital watch market is now proceeding to the growing stage from the introduction stage, and user's requirements now extend beyond simple, low-cost timepieces to the thin and multi-function digital watches.

In response to such needs, Citizen has developed and marketed the "Citizen Quartz Multi-Alarm II" which is based on the "Citizen Quartz MultiAlarm" already enjoying a fine reputation on the market. This newly developed Multi-Alarm II perfects the time-telling alarm of the first Multi-Alarm watch, incorporating the time-telling alarm in addition to alarm- I, alarm-11, hourly chimes and count-down timer functions. Thus this is truly a sound-oriented digital watch. 0


CLASSIFIED ADS

Regulations and Rates

Ads are payable in advance $.35 per word, $.45 per word in bold type. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additiQnal for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance.

Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211, (513) 661-3838

Tradesman

WATCH-REPAIR FOR THE TRADE: QUARTZ (LED, LCD, STEP MOTOR), AND MECHANICAL. Careful work & thoroughgoing repairs plus ultrasonic cleaning and electronic timing. The Watch-Repair Shop. C.K. Goshman. 1219 Mound St. Madison, WI 53715, 1-<)08-255-3247.

Oock repair material and tools. Manufacture of clock springs, dials, escape wheels, verge kits, weights, all types of brass and steel stock and custom made parts. Catalog postpaid $2.00. Tani Engineering, Box 338, Atwater, Ohio 44201.

CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, repivoting, retoothing, escapement work. J .C. Van Dyke, CMW, CMC, CMBHI, 1039 Rt. 163, Oakdale, CT 06370.

ELECIRONIC WATCH REPAIR SPECIALIST. Digital (LED & LCD) and Analog. Tuxedo Electric-Quartz Watch Repair Div. P.O. Box 561, Tuxedo, NY 10987, (914) 351-2282.

Superior Tweezer Resharpening $2.00 each, including return first class postage. Minimum of three tweezers. Advance payment required. Harvey C. Watkins, CMW, P.O. Box 1738, 1204 West Cason Street, Plant City, FL 33566.

Digital Watch Repair. Specialists in digital watch repair for the trade. Eight years of experience in digital watch design and service. Zantech, Inc., 13 Greentree Rd., Trenton, N.J. 08619 (609) 586-5088.


Pearl and Bead Restringing. All types. Fast service. Jean A. Gruenig, P.O. Box 12007, Columbus, Ohio 43212.

PULSAR WATCH REPAIRS. Complete repairs on all L.E.D. PULSARS except calculators. Prompt Service. Leo G. Kozlowski, 55 E. Washington Street. Chicago, IL 60602, 312-236-8052.

Wheels, pinion , barrels or whatever , repaired or made new. Repivot arbors. Parts made to order. Send sample for free estimates. On _aU watch paJts, inquire first. Brass, rod & tub1ng cut to your length. Small orders welcome. SXSE for price list. Ken Leescberg Ken-Way Inc. 311 Chestnut St. Addison IL 60101 .

Wanted To Buy

WANTED TO BUY-precious metal scrap . Highest prices for bench sweeps, buttons and sprues, watch and optical scrap, etc. Request Refining Purchase Schedule. Dept. A4, SWEST, INC., 10803 Composite Drive, Dallas, Texas 75220.

WANTED: JULES JERGENSEN, PATEK PHILLIPPE, ADOLPHE LANGE and other High Grade l'oreign or American Watches. Will buy individually or quantity. Describe condition and price. Dick Ziebell, Box 427, Ipswich, MA 01938.617-356-5756.

Wanted: New or used clockmaker's lathe and L&R T28 Ultrasonic cleaner or a Megason. Steve Nicholson, 7085 Bloomfield, No.32, Des Moines, lA 50320, (515) 287-6829.

STERLING FLATWARE STOCKS-new or used needed. Call us before you sell for scrap. Also wanted: silver, diamonds, gold scrap, coins and coin collections. Call or write: Mr. Neff, HT, WFN Enterprises, 2260 Northlake Parkway, Suite 307, Tucker, GA 30084, Ph. 404-938-0744.

I would like to buy repeater movements to work on, partial or complete. Any condition. Write Bill Selover, Box 49, New Smyrna, Florida 32069.

Levin Slide Rest & Levin Milling Attachment for Levin Lathe Model B. Call or write Allan Smiles, 1121 Vaughn Ave., Ashland, WI (715) 682-5720.

BONUS PAID for usable jewelry. Gold, platinum, silver, gold fl.ll scrap, gold and gold fill watch chains, pearls, colored stones, broken/old cut diamonds, watch movements wanted. Capital Premiums, 2210 Welshire Blvd., Suite 110, Santa Monica, CA 90403, (213) 399-7426.

IMMEDIATE CASH PAID for Gold, Silver, Platinum, any form! Jewelry scrap, filings, gold filled, sterling! Immediate top dollar cash offer return mail! Satisfaction guaranteed. Ship insured/registered mail to: American Metals Co., St. Andrews Branch, P.O. Box 30009H, Charleston, SC 29407.

Help Wanted

WATCHMAKER : Certified Accutron Technician with high degree of proficiency in all electronic models to staff our Toledo, Ohio, headquarters shop facility. Benefits include relocation, health and life insurances, disability pay, vacation, profit sharing, and discount privileges. Material house on premises. Salary plus production commission. Send resume stating salary expectations to People's Jewelry Company, P.O. Box 973, Toledo, Ohio 43696 , Attention Personnel, or call collect ( 419) 241-4i8'1.

WATCH MATERIAL DEPARTMENT MANAGER-Present Manager retiring leaving immediate opening. Established depaJtment of 46 years doing mostly mail orders. Interested person write Wm. R. Katz Co., P.O. Box 15066, Dallas, Texas 75201.

GROUND FLOOR OPPORTUNITY FOR CLOCKMAKER. New clock shop in Richmond, Virginia looking for qualified clockmaker to run repair department. Quality shop in new building, located in a prestige section of Richmond. Outstanding opportunity for right person. Call or write Neil or Joanne Cossaboon, 13511 Starcross Rd. Midlothian VA 23113, (804) 794-4129.

For Sale

Antique and American POCKET WATCH PARTS. American pocket watch original replacement movements. American cases. Repair tools, watch and clock books, microfilms of rare books. Free list from J .E. Hymmen, 80 Cassandra Blvd., Suite 11 , Don Mills, Ontario , Canada M3A IS6.

For Sale-Timing Machines, Watchmaster Timers Vibrograf Timers. Factory rebuilt. All machines guaranteed. Terms available. Also available Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Machines. Write Vibrograf sales representative Robert Swensgard, 2630-A Jett Hill Road, New Richmond Ohio 45157. Or phone (513) 553-2113. Territory: Southern Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, Ohio, Tennesee, and West Virginia.

Enlarging your shop? Full size 19 drawer watchmakers bench, seldom used in brand new condition. Adv.ertised nationally for $325 can be yours for $225 cash and carry. Contact Andrew at 1-504-834-9999, 1525 Metairie Road, Metairie, LA 70005 .

Clockmakers' Buying Guide. New 80-page Second Edition lists over 1000 spare parts and repair services available from o~er ~00 suppliers. $5 postpaid. 30-day sattsfachon or refund. Box 171-T, Bronxville, NY 10708.

NEW MEMBER:

Name

EVEREADY WATCH BATTERIES Lowest prices quaranteed. No minimum order. No freight charge. 2% cash discount. Write for free price schedule & cross reference guide. N.B. Sales Co., 32250 Red Clover Road, Farmington Hills, Ml 48018 (313) 5'53-0947.

Metal Cutting Lathes, Bench Mills, Drillpresses, Unimats, Maximats, Catalog L, $1.00. Woodturning Machinery, Lathes, Planers, Bandsaws, Combination machines. Catalog W, $1.00. Precision Tools, Inch or Metric, Aluminum, Brass, Steel, all shapes, Miniature Screws, Taps, Drills, Saws, Collets, Catalog T, $1.00. Campbell Tools, 1424 Barclay, Springfield, Ohio, 45505.

ESEMBL-O.CRAF LIBRARY in 28 volumes, Pittsburgh, 1955. Chronograph repaumg is made easy by Step-by-Step procedure. Each small step of removing and replacing each part and making adjustments is clearly illustrated. No concentrated study is necessary. Write EOG, PO Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211.

Miscellaneous Digital Watch Service Training. Zantech, Inc. offers training and instruments for servicing all types of digital watches. Course includes diagnosis of watch malfunctions and repair methods, including techniques in wire bond repairs using silver epoxy. Louis A. Zanoni, Zantech, Inc., 13 Greentree Rd., Trenton, NJ 08619 (609)586-5088.

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Print or type out your ad as you want it to appear in the magazine. ·

Count the words and multiG)) ply that number by $.35 a ~word. (Remember, $.45 a

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AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE

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Dates To Remember

October

9-1 0-Jewel ry Management Institute; New Advertising and Sales Promotion Workshop; Boston, Massachusetts.

11-12-Jewelry Management Institute; Financial Management Workshop; Boston, Massachusetts.

12-13-lnternational Gem and Jewelry Show; University of Richmond; Richmond, Virginia.

12-14-Arizona Jewel.ers Association Convention; Registry Resort Hotel; Scottsdale, Arizona.

13-14-Central Illinois Watchmakers Convention; Holiday Inn; Decatur, Illinois.

13-14-Pennsylvania Retail Jewelers Association 90th Annual Convention; Host Town; Lancaster, Pennsylvania.

15-Golden Circle Club Meeting; The Warwick Hotel; New York, New York.

20-24-Karat Club of Southern California Fall dinner dance· Beverly Wilshire Hotel; Los Angeles, California. '

21-23-Miami Beach Close Out Show; Miami Beach Convention Hall; Miami Beach, Florida.

27-28-Fiorida State Watchmakers Association 34th Convention; Treasure Island Inn; Daytona Beach Shores, Florida.

November

3-Watchmakers Association of New Jersey; 40th Anniversary Dinner Dance; Big Stash's; Linden, New Jersey.

4-Massachusetts Watchmakers Associat ion, Inc. Annual Ladies Night and Dinner Dance; Alphonse's Powder Mill; Maynard, Massachusetts.

12-Golden Circle Club Meeting; The Warwick Hotel; New York, New York.


16-18-lnternational Gem and Jewelry Show ; Market Hall; Dallas, Texas .

17-18-Mineralogical Society of Southern California 32nd Annual Gem and Mineral Show; Pasadena Center; Pasadena, California.

23-25-16th Gem, Mineral, and Jewelry Show; Statler Hilton; New York, New York.

Decemb:er

1 0-Golden Circle Club Meeting; The Warwick Hotel; New York, New York.

Tell a Friend

About

AWl···

and We'll Keep On Ticking ...

Symbol

A

B c D E F G

AWl BENCH COU.RSES 1979-80

LEGEND

Course

Basic Elec. & Meter Reading Citizen Citizen Seiko Intra. to Solid State Bulova ESA

Usual Instructor

G. Jaeger

B. Carpenter J. Broughton L. Smith R. Nelson H. Opp W. Biederman

Support the

AWl-ELM TRUST SCHOLARSHIP

PROGRAM

By

Sending your

gold scrap to

the

AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS

INSTITUTE

OCTOBER 14, 1979 COURSE LOCATION A Cleveland, OH D St. Louis, MO E Madison, WI D DesMoines, lA

OCTOBER 21, 1979 COURSE LOCATION D Cincinnati, OH G Bismark, NO F Little Rock, AR

NOVEMBER 4, 1979 COURSE LOCATION F Kansas City, MO

B Alexandria, VA D Ablino, TX E North Carolina

JANUARY 20, 1979 COURSE LOCATION D Springfield, OH

•·····•························•·•············•····· • Fl LL OUT THE INFORMATION FORM AND MAIL IT TODAY!

I AM INTERESTED IN YOUR BENCH COURSE TO BE

PRESENTED ON ______ ___ ____ AT

- -------------- ----PLEASE

SEND ME MORE INFORMATION.

NAME : ________________ _

ADDRESS: _ _ _____ ________ _

CITY, STATE, ZIP : _ ___________ _

Please return this form to: AWl Central, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45221

October 19 79 /Horological Times 63

Advertisers· Index

R AMERICAN PERFIT CRYSTAL CORP ... . ..... 18 KIENZLE TIME CORP. INC ..... . .... ..... . .. 35 AWl. ............................... 17,34,51 KILB& CO ............................... 25

Kl LGORE COLLEGE .. ............ . . ..... .. 19

I) B.B. CRYSTAL. ........................... 18 L M. BERESH INC ........ ............. . ... .. 27 S. LAROSE, INC ..... ............ .. .... .. .. 24 BESTFIT ............... ....... .. . .. .... .. 23 BOREL GROUP .. .. .. ... ........ .... .... .• 21 BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL ........ . .. . . 41 M JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL MARSHALL-SWARTCHILD .................. 3 OF WATCHMAKING ............... ... ..... 25 MEDIA DIGITAL CORPORATION ............ 28

c CAS-KER CO .......... .. . Inside Front Cover,51 CITIZEN WATCH CO .. .. .................... 9 L.A. CLARK CO ..... .... ........ . . ... . ... . 37

N THE NEST CO .......... . ....... . .... .. . .. 19 NIAGARA JEWELRY SUPPLY CORP .......... 39

D p PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE ..... .. .. ... .. .. .. 25

H. DECOVNICK & SON ... ......... ....... . . 26 PORTESCAP . . .. ....... . .......... . .. . .... . 5 DENVER DIAL ........................... 34 C. DVORKIN & CO ........................ 38

6 I; SEIKO ...... . .. ....... ....... Inside Back Cover

STANDARD UNBREAKABLE EBAUCHES, S.A ...................... 11,12,13 WATCH CRYSTAL CO ......... . ... ...... . . . 29 ESSLINGER & CO .............. ...... ... 6,29 STANLEY DONAHUE CO.

OF HOUSTON, INC ...... .... . . .... ...... . . 39

G SWEST INC ............................... 28 E. & J. SWIGART CO ......... Outside Back Cover

GEM CITY COLLEGE ......... .. ... .. . .. ... 34 THE GOULD CO .......................... 31 GREAT AMERICAN TIME CO ... ..... .. ... . . 37 GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE . . . .. ......... 34

T TENNESSEE JEWELERS SUPPLY, INC ... .... . 35 TWIN CITY SUPPLY . ..... .. ... ........ .. . . 25

J B. JADOW & SONS ... .... . . .. ... ... .. . .. ... 10 JEWELMONT ............. .. Outside Back Cover

v VARTA ...... ........ . ..... .• ..... . ....... 7

K w I. WIDESS & SONS ......................... 41

KANSAS CITY SCHOOL OF WATCHMAKING ............ .. ... ... ... 34 KEYSTONE SALES, LTD .. .... ...... ...... . 34

z ZANTECH . ......... . . . ....... ..... . ... . . 15


This Seiko Technical Library can

make you a Seiko expert.

The Seiko Technical Library contains everything you need to know about repairing Seiko watches. It's complete, very informative and easy-to-use. Our 4-volume set includes:

1. Seiko Watch Technical Guide-Useful information outlining the disassembly and reassembly of all basic Seiko movements.

2. Seiko Watch Parts Catalog-A complete breakdown of both men's and ladies' watch movements. Makes the identification and ordering of all Seiko parts simple and easy.

3. Seiko Watch Parts Interchangeability List-Save money on stock parts control by knowing the relationships of parts common to various Seiko calibres.

4. Seiko Casing Parts List-How to identify and order casing parts such as crowns, gaskets, hands, dials, crystals, etc.

Seiko has a nationwide network of 150 authorized material distributors who are fully stocked with quality Seiko parts. Which means you'll have no difficulty getting the parts you need whenever you need them-to repair any model we sell.

To get your complete Seiko Technical Library, send your check or money order for $15.00 to: Seiko Time Corporation, Technical Service Department, 404 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10018. SEIKQ

What do I do now?

CALL JEWELMONT! Our huge inventories of watch material, tools, supplies and a highly competent staff enables us to keep back orders to a

minimum. Call Toll Free

1-800-328-0614

JEWELMQNT®~ .P.O. Box 1404 CORPORATION • _I Minneapolis, Mn. 55440

NOW IN ITS lOOTH YEAR ... ••• the E. & J. Swigart Company has,

since its founding in 1879, been one of the largest of pure

material houses in the continental United States, offering

full lines of Swiss and American watch materials and

batteries, including genuine materials from such factories

as Seiko, Citizens, Bulova, Girard Perregaux, Omega,

Longines, Wyler, Zodiac, Rolex, Hamilton, Elgin and other

popular brands.

We also carry full lines of tools and supplies for the jeweler

and watchmaker, as well as regular and jewelry findings,

clock materials, watch glass, bands and straps, optical

goods, packaging supplies, tags, job envelopes, and bags,

imprinted on our own presses.

The majority of our sixty-six employees have been with us

for periods of twenty years or more, giving us an expertise

which is unique in a complex and highly technical business.

We invite you to try our stocks and service.

Catalogue and Ordering Material Available on Request

THE E. & J. SWIGART COMPANY 34 West 6th Street


(513) 721-1427

QUEEN CITY SEMINARS

Now in its sixth year, and with attendees over the 800 mark, we are currently sponsoring in a separate location at 34 West 6th Street in Cincinnati, five day seminars in jewelry making and repair. Equipment used is the most modern available. Seminars are as follows:

1. A primary five day class in ring sizing, assembling heads and shanks, prong rebuilding, stone setting, plating, and related functions. Classes are limited to six to permit personalized instruction. Findings used are 14K die struck.

2. Five days of advanced jewelry work for those who have attended the primary seminar.

3. Five day seminars in casting rings, pins, and pendants by the lost wax process. Wax modeling, carving, and design.

WRITE FOR BROCHURE

The E. & j. Swigart Co.

quartz - American Watchmakers – Clockmakers Institute

Documents

Transcript of quartz - American Watchmakers – Clockmakers Institute