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AaltoUniversitySchoolofScienceAdvancedMaterialsforInnovationandSustainability

AliceAguirre

ProjectmanagementSustainabilityimprovementinluxurypackaging:acasestudyinGiorgioArmaniandHelenaRubinsteinbrands

MasterThesisBordeaux,2020

Workplace: L’Oréal,Paris

Supervisors:ElinaKähkönenandJanneHalmeAdvisor: EstelleBruneau-Demousseau

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AaltoUniversitySchoolofScience ABSTRACTOFAdvancedMaterialsforInnovationandSustainability MASTER’STHESIS

Author:AliceAguirreTitle:Projectmanagement-Sustainabilityimprovementinluxurypackaging:acasestudyinGiorgioArmaniandHelenaRubinsteinbrandsDate:20/07/2020Pages:49Supervisors:ElinaKähkönenandJanneHalmeAdvisor:EstelleBruneau-DemousseauLuxuryandsustainabilityareoftenperceivedascontradictory.Luxurypackagingareeven more pointed at, being associated with waste or overconsumption. In thiscontext, companies, pushed by new consumer generation and regulations, set upstrong corporate social responsibility. For cosmetic companies, packaging eco-designisthemajorvehicletoreducetheirenvironmentalimpact.Thisthesisaimstopropose solutions to improve the environmental impact of Armani and HelenaRubinstein packaging, luxury brands from L’Oréal. By studying cosmetics andpackaging regulations, eco-design principle and the company’s own guidelinestoward sustainability, the goal is tohelpbothbrands to complywith all relevantsustainabilitycommitments,withafocusonrecyclability.Basedonthetengoldenrulesforeco-designestablishedbythecompany,wewillunderstandwhatarethemainchallengeswhenimprovingaproductsustainability.Then,byunderstandingsorting and recycling centers running, we will list potential disruptors cosmeticpackagingcanpresent,inordertobuildaflowchartofrecyclability.Forbothplasticand glass packaging, this flowchart will help product developers to assess therecyclability of their products, and quantify their progress in recyclabilitycommitments.As a result, we learned that luxury packaging sustainable improvement ofteninvolvesaestheticchanges.Itischallengingtomakethosechangesvalidatedbythemarketing, because it affects consumer perception of the product. Tomake eco-designbetterapplied,itwouldbeusefultofindgreenersolutiontopropose,withoutaffectingconsumerperception.Regardingproductrecyclability,itwasnotpossibleto build an universal flowchart, since recycling facilities vary from a country toanother.However,thetoolpermitstogetanideaofthemaindisruptorsencounteredonluxurycosmeticpackaging.Keywords:Sustainability,luxurypackaging,eco-design,recyclabilityLanguage:English

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Acknowledgments

Firstly, IwouldliketoexpressmysinceregratitudetomyadvisorEstelleBruneauforhavingofferedmetheopportunitytoworkonthisprojectinherteam,forhermotivationandsupport.

IwishalsotothanksmysupervisorsElinaKähkönenandJanneHalme.Theyhelpedmealotinthepreparationandcoordinationofthisthesis,andinthewritingofthisreport.

Aspecial thanks toallmycolleagues,especiallyDesheillawhoworkedwithme inmymissions.Iamalsothankfultotheothertrainees:Théo,Antoine,Raphaël,Léaandalltheothers,fortheircommunicativecheerfulnessandwithwhomIlovedtoworkwith.

Lastbutnotleast,Ithankmyparentsandboyfriendfortheirprecioussupportespeciallyduringthelockdown.

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AbbreviationsandAcronyms

CDP CarbonDisclosureProject

CMR Carcinogenic,mutagenicortoxictoreproduction

CSR CompanySocialResponsibility

EMcA EllenMacArthur

FSC ForestStewardshipCouncil

HR HelenaRubinstein

LLD L’OréalLuxuryDivision

PCR Post-ConsumerRecycled

PE Polyethylene

PEFC ProgrammefortheEndorsementofForestCertification

PET Polyethyleneterephthalate

PP Polypropylene

PSI ProductSustainabilityIndex

PVC Polyvinylchloride

REACH Registration,Evaluation,AuthorizationandrestrictionofChemicals

SBT ScienceBasedTarget

SBWA SharingBeautyWithAll

SPOT SustainableProductOptimizationTool

SVHC SubstanceofVeryHighConcern

UNEP UnitedNationsEnvironmentProgramme

WWF WorldWideFundforNature

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TableofcontentAcknowledgments.............................................................................................................................................3

AbbreviationsandAcronyms.......................................................................................................................4

Listoffigures.......................................................................................................................................................7

Listoftables.........................................................................................................................................................8

Introduction.........................................................................................................................................................9

1. Theorypart.............................................................................................................................................11

1.1 Corporatesocialresponsibility........................................................................................11

1.1.1 Generalconcept......................................................................................................................11

1.1.2 Thecompanyresponsibility..............................................................................................13

1.2 Luxurycosmeticsbusinessarea......................................................................................16

1.2.1 Luxuryandsustainability...................................................................................................16

1.2.2 Luxurypackagingandsustainability.............................................................................17

1.3 Existingregulationsinthefield.......................................................................................22

1.3.1 Regulationsrelatedtocosmetics.....................................................................................22

1.3.2 Regulationsrelatedtopackaging....................................................................................23

1.3.3 Thecompanyspecificrulesforpackagingmaterials..............................................24

1.4 Guidancetowardssustainability.....................................................................................25

1.4.1 Eco-designguidanceingeneral........................................................................................25

1.4.2 Eco-designguidanceforcosmeticpackaging.............................................................28

2 Experimental.........................................................................................................................................31

2.1 Productsstudied..........................................................................................................................31

2.1.1 ProductA...................................................................................................................................31

2.1.2 ProductB...................................................................................................................................31

2.2 RQ1:Howapplicablethe10eco-designrulesare?......................................................32

2.2.1 Approachtaken.......................................................................................................................32

2.2.2 Questionnairetemplate.......................................................................................................32

2.3 RQ2:Howtoevaluatetherecyclabilityofcosmeticspackaging?.........................33

2.3.1 Informationgathering..........................................................................................................33

2.3.2 Flowcharttemplate...............................................................................................................34

3 Results.......................................................................................................................................................35

3.1 RQ1:Applicabilityofthe10eco-designrules................................................................35

3.2 RQ2:Evaluationoftherecyclabilityofcosmeticpackaging...................................38

3.2.1 ProductArecycling...............................................................................................................38

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3.2.2 ProductBrecycling...............................................................................................................43

Conclusion.........................................................................................................................................................46

Limitsandperspectives...............................................................................................................................46

References.........................................................................................................................................................47

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Listoffigures

Fig1Threepillarsofsustainability[5]..................................................................................................11

Fig2Carroll’spyramidofcorporatesocialresponsibilities[11]..............................................12

Fig3l'Oréal'scontributiontotheUnitedNations'sustainabledevelopmentgoals[14,15]

................................................................................................................................................................................14

Fig4Packagingmaterialsdistributionin2017[39].......................................................................19

Fig5Sustainableactionsofluxurybrands..........................................................................................21

Fig6:Aneco-conceptionmodel,adaptedfrom[68]......................................................................26

Fig7Theecodesignwheel[65]................................................................................................................27

Fig8SPOTscoring..........................................................................................................................................30

Fig9ProductA.................................................................................................................................................31

Fig10ProductB..............................................................................................................................................31

Fig11Flowcharttemplate..........................................................................................................................34

Fig12Sortingstagesofplasticpackaging...........................................................................................38

Fig13Recyclingstagesofplasticpackaging......................................................................................40

Fig14Recyclabilityflowchartforplasticpackaging.......................................................................41

Fig15FlowchartofproductArecyclability........................................................................................42

Fig16Sortingstepsofglasspackaging.................................................................................................43

Fig17Recyclabilityflowchartforglasspackaging..........................................................................44

Fig18FlowchartofproductBrecyclability........................................................................................45

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Listoftables

Table1:Threepackaginglevers[34,35,36].......................................................................................18

Table2InformationsonRegulation(EC)No1223/2009............................................................23

Table3RecyclabilitytargetsofDirective2018/852......................................................................24

Table4Eco-designruleswithexamples..............................................................................................29

Table5ProductBcomposition................................................................................................................31

Table6Questionnairetemplate...............................................................................................................33

Table7Answersfortheeco-designquestionnaire.........................................................................37

Table8Sortingdisruptors..........................................................................................................................39

Table9Recyclingdisruptors.....................................................................................................................40

Table10Disruptorsforglasssorting....................................................................................................44

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Introduction

Sustainable development has been a major concern of last decades. Companies arerequiredtotakeintoaccountsocialandenvironmentalaspectsinboththeirproductsandactivities, in addition to the economic aspect. Regulations, customers’ expectations orcompetitors often lead those requirements. The luxury sector is entirely concernedbecauseintheonehand,itisnotexceptedfromtheapplicationoftheregulationandontheotherhand,itisconsideredbysomeofthecompaniestohaveadutytosetanexample.Inotherwords,theluxurysectorhastoseizetheopportunitytoconsolidateitsavant-garde position and show an example of the perfect integration of sustainabledevelopment,inacontextwhereluxurybrandsareexposedtocriticism.

Packagingingeneral,butevenmoreluxurypackaginghasindeedoftenanegativeimageregardingitsenvironmentalimpact.Onceused,thepackagingisthrownaway.Itisthusassociatedwithwaste, overconsumption and toxicity. However, this packaging, asidefrom protecting and transporting the product, has additional functions to promote,distinguishandmaketheproductuseeasier.Itistheshowcaseofbrands,sotheaestheticoftheluxurypackagingisconstraintbythebrandimage.Thus,thereisagrowinginteresttocreatemoresustainablepackaging,especiallyintheluxurysector.Themissionofthisthesisfallswithinthischallenge.

Thisthesistakesrootinthel’Oréalgroupambitiontointegrateenvironmentaldimensionin their packaging and reduce its environmental impact. Positioned as the cosmeticsmarketleaderwithalmost30billionUS$ofsales[1],thegroupiswidespreadonthe5continents and on 150 countries. Over the years and since its creation, L’Oréal isconsiderednumber1ofbeautythankstoitsexpertiseandtotheacquirementofseveralinnovative subsidiaries. The 36 brands of the group are split into four divisions: TheConsumerProductsDivision(CPD),focusesinmassretailingchannelslikesupermarkets,theProfessionalProductsDivision(PPD)sellsitsproductsinhairdressingsalonallovertheworld,theActiveCosmeticDivision(ACD)meetsarangeofdifferentskincareneedsinhealthcareoutletsworldwide,including,pharmaciesanddrugstores.Finally,L’OréalLuxury Divison (LLD) is composed of brands delivering high quality products and aserviceaimingatachievingexcellenceforitsconsumers.Thisdivisionoutperformedthemarketin2019inthethreecategories:skincare,perfumesandmake-up,with11billioneurosinsales[1].Thefocusofthepresentstudyisinthisdivisionandmorespecificallyintwobrands:GiorgioArmaniandHelenaRubinstein.

Giorgio Armani creates perfumes, skin care and make-up around “couture” designs,innovationsrelyingonthebestofscienceanduniquetextures.Toseduceitsconsumers,thebrandstakesitsinspirationsonfashioncollectionsandaddsallitsknowledgeistermsofformulationandtechnology.Armaniisoneofthefourbigbrandsoftheluxurydivision,withLancôme,YvesSaintLaurentandKiehl’s.[1,2]

Since1902,HelenaRubinsteinbuildsitsstrengthoncutting-edgetechnologytodevelopitsevermoreeffectivesanti-agingcares.Thebrandstemcellsexpertisepermitstoofferproductscorrespondingtotheexpectationsofthemoreandmoredemandingwomen.

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The brand recently presents one of the higher growing thanks to the ultra-premiumskincareproducts.[3]

Thegoalofthisthesis istoproposesolutionstoimprovetheenvironmental impactofArmaniandHelenaRubinsteinpackaging.Basedoncosmeticsandpackagingregulations,eco-designprincipleandtheL’Oréal’sownguidelinestowardsustainability.Thegoalistohelpthetwoluxurybrandscomplywithallrelevantsustainabilitycommitments.Toreachthatgoal,Iwillpresentthedifferentmeansofimprovingtheenvironmentalimpactofapackaging,basedonitslifecycle.Afterevaluatingthedifficultyofimplementingthoseactions,thefocuswillbeontheendoflifeofproducts,studyingtherecyclability,beforestudyingthedevelopmentprocessofimplementationofpost-consumerrecycledmaterialinplasticandglasspackaging.

This thesis is organized as follows. The theory part describes the Corporate SocialResponsibility (CSR) concept and explains the luxury business, focusing on luxurypackagingsustainability.ItalsopresentsEuropeancosmeticandpackagingregulations,andendswiththeeco-designguidanceforcosmeticpackaging.Then,theexperimentalpartassessesthedifferentmethodsfor improvingtheenvironmental impactof luxurypackagingandtheirapplicability inthecaseofArmaniandHelenaRubinsteinbrands.Theassessmentisdonebyusinglifecycleassessment(LC)Aonthepackagingmaterialsof selected products. Based on the outcomes of LCA, the applicability of the criticalimprovementsistestedbyexpertinterviewsintheorganization.Finally,thelastchapterpresentstherecommendationsforhowtoimplementsustainabilityguidanceforluxuryproductpackaging.

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1. Theorypart

Thischapterpresentsthegeneralcontextofmywork,articulatedaroundtheconceptsofcorporatesocialresponsibility,luxurybusinessandpackagingsustainability.

1.1 Corporatesocialresponsibility

1.1.1 Generalconcept

Morethanthirtyyearsago,companies’awarenessonsustainabilityasrisen.[4]Sincetheeighties,nationalandinternationalorganismshaveintroducedthenotionof“sustainabledevelopment”which is “thekindof development thatmeets theneedsof thepresentwithoutcompromisingtheabilityoffuturegenerationstomeettheirownneeds”[4].TheBrundtlandreport[4]establishedthreefundamentalpillarstosustainabledevelopment:environmentalprotection,economicgrowthandsocialequity[5](fig.1).

Fig1Threepillarsofsustainability[5]

Toanswertothegrowingneeds intermsof food,energyandmanufacturedproducts,Humanhasaffectedourecosystem.Hehasimproveditslifequality,consumingmoreandmorethelimitedresourcesofferedbyourplanet.Theimpactsgrowthisassociatedwiththeincreasingglobalpopulation,theindustrialdevelopmentandwiththeevolutionofthe consumer society. On the one side, the environmental impacts concern theoverexploitation of resources, soil (waste), water (eutrophication) and air (climatechange)pollutionaswellashumanhealth(cancer)andbiodiversity(speciesextinction)[6].Furthermore,theraceforprofithasconductedcompaniestounethicalpractices,such

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as child labour [7]. Those three pillars are therefore linked and it is essential not toneglectoneofthem.

To attain sustainability, the United Nation of Environmental Programme (UNEP)proposes to spread the responsibility between public authorities, consumers andcompanies. Companies hold the main action levers [8]. Assuming this, the notion ofCorporateSocialResponsibility(CSR)wasborn.

CorporateSocialResponsibility(CSR),whichisdefinedbytheEuropeanCommissionas“companiestakingresponsibilityfortheirimpactonsociety”[9],isanissuethatisgettingmoreandmoreimportantforbrand’sreputation.

CSR covers very large aspects of companies, from ethics or activities transparency togreenhousegasesemissionsorharmtobiodiversity.Thisconcepthavebeenthesubjectofmanyinvestigationsandhasvariousdefinitionsandrepresentations.Oneofthemostsimple and well-known representation is Caroll’s CSR pyramid (Fig.2). According toCarroll[10],“corporatesocialresponsibilityinvolvestheconductofabusinesssothatitis economically profitable, law abiding, ethical and socially supportive. To be sociallyresponsible then means that profitability and obedience to the law are foremostconditionswhen discussing the firm’s ethics and the extent towhich it supports thesocietyinwhichitexistswithcontributionsofmoney,timeandtalent”.Sheproposedtorepresenttheconceptbyapyramidthattranslatesthefourmaintypesofobligationsthatsocietyexpectsofbusinesses(Fig.2).

Fig2Carroll’spyramidofcorporatesocialresponsibilities[11]

ThebaseofCaroll’spyramidconcernstheresponsibilityofbusinessofproducinggoodsandservicesneededbysocietyandsellingthemmakingaprofit.Itispresentedasthefoundationupwhichallothersrest.Thencomesthelegalresponsibility,demandingthatbusinessesabidebythelawandplaybytherulesofthegame.Upwards,theimportant

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conceptoflegalresponsibilitytranslateswhatisgenerallyexpectedbysocietyoverandaboveeconomicandlegalexpectations.Therearegenerallynotguidedbythelaw,butexpectedfromconsumersandgovernments.Finally,atthetopofthepyramidappearsthe discretionary responsibilities, also known as philanthropic responsibilities. Thisconcept is not essential andnot oftenpresent is the CSR research topics. It includesphilanthropic efforts such as donations or programs that encourage employeevolunteerism.[10,11]Thesubsequentparts followthepyramidstructure, tacklingthesubjectsofeconomics,legalresponsibilitiesandethicalresponsibilities.

1.1.2 Thecompanyresponsibilitya. Self-developedguidance

CSRhasbecomeanimportantpartofbrandvalueanditisconsideredtohavegrowingimportanceinsalesintheglobalcompanyinourcase.Forinstance,astudyshowedthat88%of thepeoplesurveyedwouldpreferbuyingproducts fromresponsiblecompany[12].Thisshiftisdrivenbymillennials,whicharemoresensitiveaboutenvironmentandresponsibleconsumption[13].Inthiscontext,L’Oréalhasimplementeditsownprogram:“Sharing Beauty With All” (SBWA) [14]. The attempt covers all the activities in thecompany. The program is articulated around four areas: Innovating sustainability,producing sustainability, living sustainability and developing sustainability, withcommitmentstowards2020.Withthisprogramanditsstronginvolvementinpromotingdiversityandinclusion,thegroupcontributesto14ofthe17SustainableDevelopmentGoalscreatedbytheUnitedNationsin2015[14,15].Amongthose14goals,mythesismainly entrenched three of them: responsible consumption and production (n°12),climateaction(n°13)andlifeonland(n°15).

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Fig3l'Oréal'scontributiontotheUnitedNations'sustainabledevelopmentgoals[14,15]

The innovating part aims at improving the environmental and social profile of all itsproducts.Thegoalwastoachieve100%oftheproductimprovedby2020.ThisresultcanbeevaluatewiththetoolSPOT,forSustainableProductOptimizationTool,developedbyl’Oréal,furtherdiscussedinpart1.4.2.b.ThepillarproducingsustainabilitycontainstheeffortsonCO2emissionsandwaterconsumptionduringmanufacturing.

ThetwootherpillarsconcernthesocialaspectoftheSBWAprogram,withphilanthropicactivities.Livinganddevelopingsustainabilityincludeactivitiesinthefieldsofprovidingsafedrinkingwateroremploymentofunderprivilegedcommunities.Forinstance,since2010ArmanihaspartneredwithUNICEDUSAfor itsAcquaforLifecampaign, tohelpexpandaccesstosafedrinkingwaterinseveraldevelopingcountries.[16]

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b. Externalsustainablecommitments

IfL’OréalhasstronginternalsustainablecommitmentswiththeSBWAprogramfor2020,the group has completed its strategy by being engaged in external commitments forcomingyears.Concerningdifferentstepsoftheproductlifecycle,thefocusismainlyonvirginplasticusereductionandproductsrecyclability.

Upstream,regardingthematerialsusedinpackaging,L’Oréal2025goalistouseeitherrecycledoriginorbio-sourcedplastic.Theroadmapplasticcommitmentsupportsthatatleast50%oftheplasticusedwillbefromoneofthesesources[17].Bio-sourcedplasticwillbefavoredonlyifithasabetterenvironmentalandsocialimpactcomparedtovirginplastic.Thisiswhyforeachnewbio-basedplasticsourcealifecycleassessmentshouldberealizedbyexperts.

Downstream,thegroupisengagedtoreducethepackagingendoflifeimpact.Todoso,L’Oréal has become a partner of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. The charitableorganizationwaslaunchedin2010bythesailorDameEllenMacArthurtoacceleratethetransitiontoacirculareconomy[18]. Itworkswithpartnersacrosskeysectorsoftheeconomy to demonstrate circular innovation at scale. Big companies such as H&M,Google,DanoneorUnileverbecamepartofthemission[19].Thegoalistomake100%ofplastic packaging refillable, recyclable or compostable [17,19]. Once again, the use ofcompostable materials is preferred only if true in real life conditions: ambienttemperature and humidity. The EllenMacArthur foundation has determine somerecycling conditions inorder for the commitment to fitwith thedifferent sortingandrecyclingcentersworldwide.Todoso,theyestablishedadefinitionofrecyclability:“Apackaging or packaging component is recyclable if its successful post-consumercollection, sorting, and recycling is proven to work in practice and at scale.” By “inpracticeandatscale”,itmeansthatallovertheworld,400millioninhabitantscanrecycletheproductat30%recyclingrate[19].

OnlyfourformatsinArmaniandHelenaRubinsteinscopemeetthisrequirement:PET,PP or PE bottles and PE jars. All other formats and materials are considered non-recyclablefortheEMcAcommitment.

Anotherconditionistodecidethatfrom95%up,productisconsidered100%recyclable[19].Thatmeansthatiftheproducthasasmallcomponent(<5%inweight)whichdoesnotpreventtherecyclabilityofthisproductbutthatisnotrecyclableitself,itisassumedthattheentireproductisrecyclable.

For2030,theScienceBasedTargetprogramplansthegroup’scommitments[20].Thisprogramwasborn after a collaborationbetweenNGOs such asWorldWideFund forNature (WWF) orDisclosure Insight Action CDP [21]. Established in theway to limitglobalwarmingto1.5°C,thisprogramhelpscompaniestodefinestrongenvironmentaltargetsinordertoreducegreenhousegases[20,21].Inthisway,L’Oréalplanstoloweritscarbonemissionsby25%inabsoluteterms,comparedto2016[20].

Thosethreemaincommitmentsareresumedinthetablebelow.

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Commitment Year Target

EllenMacArthur 2025100%ofplasticpackagingwillbe

refillable,rechargeable,recyclableorcompostable

Roadmapplastic 202550%oftheplasticsusedinpackagingwilleitherbeofrecycledoriginorbio-

sourced

ScienceBasedTarget 2030 Carbonemissionswillbelowerby25%inabsolutetermscomparedto2016

Table1:L’Oréalsustainablemaincommitments

Part of my mission is to help Armani and Helena Rubinstein brands to reach thosecommitments. The focus is on 2025 commitments, by studying the recyclability ofproductsandfindingwaystoimplementrecycledoriginsourcedplastic.

1.2 Luxurycosmeticsbusinessarea

1.2.1 Luxuryandsustainability

Originally,theword"luxury"comesfromtheLatinwordluxus,whichmeansindulgenceofthesenses,regardlessofcost[22].Atfirstsight,luxurymayseemincompatiblewithsustainabilityandisaccusedofthewasteofresourcesthatcouldbeneededforindustriesthataremoreuseful.[23]Itisalsoasymbolofsocialinequalitiesbeingreservedtoelite.[24]

Luxury products are associatedwith vanity, considered as non-essentials and boughtonlytochangeconsumers’appearanceorasamarkofsocialdistinction.Therefore,thisisasectorecologistspointedoutregardingvariousparameters[25]:thepresenceoftoxicsubstances,animaltesting,ingredients’origin,companies’responsibilityindeforestationorenvironmentalimpact.Thus,luxurycompanieshavetodealwiththeparadoxbetweensustainabilityandluxury,especiallyregardingwasteFurthermore,luxuryisassociatedwithcreativeliberty,distinction,pleasureandwealthwithoppositionwithsustainabilitywhichhasaconnotationofsimplicityandaltruism[25,26].Luxurypackagingchallengeismainlyfocusedonenvironment.Luxurybrandsshouldcombinethosetwoparadoxalnotions,presentedintable2.

Luxury SustainabilityWealthPleasureScarcityDistinction

Creativeliberty

SimplicityNeeded

RenewableSharingConstraint

Table2:Thesustainableluxuryparadox[23,25,26]

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However,luxuryDNAhassomecommonpointswithsustainability:thepreservationofrarematerialsandexpertisetoproposeexclusiveproducts.Thehighpricelimitsthemassconsumption.Luxuryproductspromoteslocalfabrication,andtheirhighqualitymakesthemsustainableinoppositionwithobsolescence.[22,27]

Despitethosecommonpoints,consumersconsiderthatluxurybrandsshouldgofurtherandbeginadeepchangetobemoreresponsibleandtobetter integratesustainabilitydimensions[26,27].Oneofthechallenges,especiallyinthepresentcase,isthatluxurybrandshavethesamesustainablecommitmentsasthoseforotherbrandsincludingthoseofthemass-marketsector.Theconstraintsgeneratedbythosecommitmentsareoftenmoreeasilyimplementedinmass-marketproductsthaninluxuryones.Forexample,amass-marketproducthasoftenasimplecomposition,withoneortwomaterials,makingitmoreadaptedforrecyclability, inoppositionwithcomplexpackagingusedinluxuryproducts. If thismakes itverychallenging for luxurybrands, thisparticularitypushesluxurydivisiontomakeeffortsregardingtheenvironment.

Anotherchallengeforluxuryindustriesistoconsolidatetheirforwardthinkingimage,tobe pro-active using creation and innovation. Luxury brands are indeed known forcreating the trends, not following them.With the evolving culture of climate changeconcern,consumersaredemandingforsustainableandconsciouspractices.Thisistheopportunityfortheluxuryindustrytochangeitsbusinessmodel,favoringinnovationinproductsandoperationsinordertostayalignedwithpeople’svalues[29].ThisaspectiseventruerforL’Oréal,sinceitisthemarketleaderincosmeticsandtheluxurydivisionisone of the main growth driver of the group [30]. The change has started for luxurycompanies. As an example, Marie-Claire Daveu, from the luxury group Kering’s hasaffirmed that “The ambition is to redefine luxury to help influence and drive thesepositivechanges”[31].

1.2.2 Luxurypackagingandsustainability

Packaging tacklesaestheticconstraintsdue to its importantrole inbrandsvalue.Thischallengeisemphasizedforluxuryproducts.Toanswertotheir luxurycode,cosmeticpackagingareoftenvoluminous,heavyandwithcomplexmaterialssuchasmetallizedplastic to get a shiny aspect. Those particularities raise the question of waste andrecyclability.Afterdefiningpackaginganditsroles,packagingsustainabilityisstudied.

a/Packagingdefinition

Packagingisanoldconcept,createdmanycenturiesago.Itwasmanufacturedwithwood,soil,oranimalleatherandwasusedtostock,protectandtransportcommoditiessuchaswheat,oilorwine[32].Packaging’srolehasevolvedsincethedevelopmentofself-servicemarket.Inoppositionwithtraditionalmarket,wherethesellermakesthelinkbetweentheproductandtheconsumer,intheself-servicemarket,theproductisdissociatedwithitsseller.Theconsumerhastochoosebetweenseveralcompetingproducts.Packagingbecomesthenewandonlypromotionandcommunicationtoolontheproductand itsbrand[33].

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Itisimportanttodistinguishthethreepackaginglevels[34](table2):

- Primarypackaging:theonethatgenerallytouchestheproduct,protectsitandinformsorattractstheconsumer.

- Secondarypackaging:outsidetheprimarypackaging,itsmaingoalistoprotectthe primary packaging, and to make the transportation easier. Sometimes itpermitstostockvariousobjectssuchasusermanualorcosmeticaccessories.

- Tertiarypackaging:alsoreferredtoastransitpackaging,itsaimistofacilitatethetransportationofmanyproductsandtogroupthem.

Primarypackaging Secondarypackaging Tertiarypackaging

Table1:Threepackaginglevers[34,35,36]

Thosethreetypesofpackagingperformnumerousfunctions[33,34,37].Thepackagingcanprotecttheproductfromthepackagingplantrightuptotheendconsumer.Itenablestheproducttobeshippedallovertheworld.Italsoprotectstheproductagainstexternalconditions,suchasoxidationorcontamination.Itprolongstheproduct’susefullifeandthusreducewaste.Itprovidesaccesstodistributionanduseoftheproduct.Itinformsconsumer about the product, its ingredients and conditions for use. Finally yetimportantly,itisapromotionalandadvertisingmediumforthebrand.Itisanelementofdifferentiation being brand’s showcase, embodying brand’s values and codes. Thisaesthetic importance is the biggest constraint for implementing sustainability in thepackaging,aspresentedlater.

b/Economic,environmentalandsocialaspectsofpackaging

In the middle of the three pillars of sustainability, packaging is not presented assustainable, butmore as awaste. A French household indeed throws away about 10packaging per day [38]. This part presents each of the three pillars of sustainability:economic,environmentalandsocial,linkedtopackaging.

Economic

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Worldpackagingmarketin2017wasapproximatelyof851billionUS$andmayreach1000billionUS$in2023[39].Thisriseisduetothedemographicgrowth,e-commercedevelopment, product availability and to the mutation of traditional market to pre-packageproductmarket[39].

Regardingtherepartitionofpackagingmaterials,paper/cardboardandplasticpackagingarepredominantwith35.7%and41.5%,respectively.Theneedofcorrugatedboardhasexplodedwith thedevelopmentofe-commerceand isestimatedat245billionUS$ in2017for143milliontons.Theuseofflexiblematerialshasevolvedtoreplacerigidplasticinfoodindustrytoproposelighteralternatives[39].Allthepackagingmaterialsareinthescopeofourstudy.

Fig4Packagingmaterialsdistributionin2017[39]

Regardingthedifferentsectors,thefoodmarketislargelypredominantwithaturnoverof274billionUS$in2017.Regardingthecosmeticindustry,itrepresents29,6billionUS$andluxurypackaging14billionUS$in2017[39].

Environmental

Thepackagingindustryisassociatedwithseveralenvironmentalaspectssuchaswaste,resources consumption or toxicity. According to company’s own studies, 50% of theenvironmentalimpactofaproductislinkedtoitspackaging[17].

After use,most of our packagingmade of differentmaterials are landfilled, and takehundreds of years to decompose. Some of them do not decompose at all. Regardingplastic packaging,whosemajor problem is the end of life, only 23%of all the plasticpackaging produced is recycled [40]. This is a major problem for the environment,especiallyforoceanandsoilpollution.Researchersaffirmedthatby2050,ifnothinghaschanged,therewillbemoreplasticthanfishintheocean[41].

Finally,regardingresourceconsumption,theproductionofpackagingisveryimpacting.Packagingindustryabsorbs40%ofconsumedplasticinEurope[42],knowingthattheworldwideplasticproductionnecessitate8%ofpetrol[43].Regardingglasspackaging,

35,7%

23,3%

18,2%

12,2%

6,6% 4,0%

Paper-cardboard Flexibles

Rigidplastic Metal

Glass Others

63%13%

5%

5%

14%

Foodandbeverage Pharmaceuticals

Cosmetics Chemicals

Others

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unlikemostpeoplecanthink, it isnotnecessarilymoresustainablethanplastic.Glassproduction indeed requires a lot of energy, because it needs to be heated formanufacturing,andasglassisheavy,thetransportationenergycostisveryhigh.Thetotalgreenhouse gas emission for transportation andmanufacturing is 101 grams for theplastic,and265gfortheglasspackaging.However,glasspackagingcanbetheoreticallyrecycledinfinitetimes.Usingthreetimesaglassbottle isalmostequivalenttousingasingleusedplasticonce[44].

Aboutpaperorcardboardpackaging,everyyear4billiontreesarecutdown,leadingtothedestructionofbiodiversityandincreaseofCO2emission.[45]Differentlegislationspushtheindustrytolimititsimpactregardingallofthoseaspects,andarepresentedlaterinthisdocument.

Social

Whenpeoplespeakaboutpackagingsustainability,thefocusisoftenontheeconomicorontheenvironmentalaspect,butthesocialcomponentofsustainabilityhasnotreceivedmuchattention.Thiscanbeexplainedbythefacttherearenotwell-establishedmethodstoquantifythisaspect[46].However,packagingcanbelinkedtoseveralsocialaspect,eitherpositiveornegative.

The first aspect concerns the supply chain, regarding work intensity, faire wages orworkforcediversity,butitisnotspecifictothepackaging,butmoreontheindustryitself.Thus,thesupplychainissueisnotthefocushere[46].

Packagingfacilitatethepurchaseofnon-localproductsthanktoabetterconservationandeasiertransportationandconsequentlyreducelocalmarket.Thepositivesideisthatitpermitstonon-developedcountriestohaveaccesstofoodprovidedaroundtheworld[47].Regardingtheproduct,thepackagingcanencouragetheoverconsumptionbecauseoftheaestheticaspectandtheneedsitcreates.Ifitenablespeopletomaketheirliveseasier, forexamplewith thedevelopmentofsinglehouseholdportion, is favorswaste[47].

Finally,packagingplaysasafetyrole,protectingandinformingtheconsumertoensurethatmedicationorfoodstayfreshandwellprotected[37].

c/Towardssustainableluxurypackaging

Luxurybrandsusepackagingtoshowtheirvaluesandconveyprestige.Overthetime,packagingimportancehasrisenandcertainmaterialsandshapeshavebeenassociatedtoluxuryincustomer’seyes[48].

Themaincolorspeopleassociatewithluxuryaregold,black,silverandwhite.Concerningtheshape,luxurypackagingisoftenassociatedwithanexcessofvolumeandweight.(refciteo)heavypackagedare indeedconsideredasmore luxurious, incontrastwith lightpackaging, looking shoddy in people’s head [49]. Some luxury brands have a strongtraditionlinkedtotheirpackagingdesign;theblackcolorforArmaniforexampleorthe

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use of glass forHelenaRubinstein.As presented later, all thosematerials and shapesassociatedwithluxuryareabraketosustainability,especiallyforrecyclability.

However, ifadecadeago thepackagingdesignwasessential forcustomers, today themindsareshiftingandpeoplearemoreandmoreenvironmentallysensitive.AstudyfromCITEO[50]showedthaton500peoplesurveyed,77%ofthemwouldshiftawayfromaluxurybrandsif theirpackagingisnotenvironmentallyfriendly,and95%ofthemareunder 35. This same study asked about the responsibility when improving theenvironmentalimpactofpackaging,and75%ofpeoplesurveyedansweredthatthatwasthemanufacturerresponsibility.Thus,atrendsettingcompanyshouldbethedriverofthischange,byproposingtothenewgenerationgreenerpackagingwhilekeepingbrandsimage.

Onemightconsideriffocusingintheluxurypackaginghasrelevanceduetoitssmallsize.With15billionUS$turnoverin2016,theluxurypackagingindustryindeedrepresentsonly3%ofthetotalpackagingindustry[51].However,thetrendsettingofluxurybrandspushes them toworkon theirpackaging sustainability. Customers aredemanding forauthenticity,transparencyandcommunication[52].Manyluxurybrandshavemadegoodprogress in this sustainable transition, adopting various strategies. For example, onecompetitor(ThierryMugler),havestandoutworkingonrefillableperfumes,creatingtheMuglerFountain,whichpermitstorefillperfumebottledirectlyinretailstore(Fig.5.a).This innovation has permitted to save 2.3million bottles and boxes every year [53].Others favored the lighteningof theirpackaging.This is thecaseof theAbeilleRoyaleproduct of Guerlain (Fig. 5.b), renovated with a lightening of -62% in weight [54].Furthermore, one of the company’s own luxury brands (Kiehl’s) have succeededimplementing100%ofpost-consumerrecycledplastic(PCR),whichisplasticmadefromrecycledproducts,initsliquidhandsoapCoriander(Fig.5.c)[55].

(a)TheMuglerFountain,Mugler(b)AbeilleRoyale,Guerlain(c)HandSoapCoriander,Kiehl’s

Fig5Sustainableactionsofluxurybrands

Thus,ifluxurypackagingrepresentsasmallpartintheoverallpackagingenvironmental,impact,thesignificancedoesnotcomeonlyfromnumbers;luxurybrandshasthepower

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tobepro-activeinthesustainabletransition,andsomebrandshavealreadystartedtomakethechange.

1.3 Existingregulationsinthefield

This chapter presents the main regulations related to cosmetics. The cosmeticsregulations focus largely on verifying safety of the products during use. The productcompositionisthemaintargetoftheregulations,butthepackagingmaterialiscloselyincontactwiththeproductsand,hence,atargetforthesameregulations.Inthisstudy,thescopeislimitedtoEuropeanregulations,buttheregulationspresentedcandifferinotherareassuchasAsia.

1.3.1 Regulationsrelatedtocosmetics

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products [56] is the main regulatoryframework for finished cosmetic products placed on the European (EU)market. Thisregulationassureshighlevelofprotectionofhumanhealthandaffectsdifferentactorsofthecosmeticindustry,fromtheingredientssuppliertothemanufacturer.

Todefinethescope,cosmeticproductsaredefinedbytheEuropeanParliamentandtheCouncilas “anysubstanceormixture intendedtobeplaced incontactwith theexternalpartsofthehumanbody(epidermis,hairsystem,nails,lipsandexternalgenitalorgans)orwith the teeth and themucousmembranes of the oral cavitywith a view exclusively ormainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them,keepingthemingoodconditionorcorrectingbodyodors”[56].

Thisregulationtargetsamultitudeofaspectsrelatedtothemanufacturingandlabelingof cosmeticsproducts. It includes safetyand responsibility, the creationof aproductinformationfile,therestrictionofcertainsubstancesandthecontrolofanimaltesting.

Thosecanbesummarizedinatable:

Aspect Description

Safety,responsibility

Aproductreleasedonthemarketshallbesafeforhumanhealth,takingintoaccount:

presentationincludingconformitywithDirective87/357/EEC,labelling,instructionsforuse.A

representativeofthemanufacturer,namedasthe“responsibleperson”,mustprovideasafetyreport.

Productinformationfile,notification

Theresponsiblepersonmustmaintainaproductinformationfileforeachcosmeticproduct.It

shouldbeaccessibletopublicandgovernmentforatleast10years.Thefileshouldcontainthe

descriptionofthecosmeticproduct,thecosmeticproductsafetyassessment,adescriptionofthe

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methodofmanufacturing,proofoftheeffectclaimedforthecosmeticproductanddataonanyanimaltestingperformed.

Restrictionsforcertainsubstances

Theregulationhassetoutbannedandrestrictedsubstancesincosmetics.Therearepresentedondifferentlists:

- Prohibitedsubstances- Restrictedsubstances- Colorants- Preservatives- UV-filters- CMRsubstances- Nanomaterials

Animaltesting

Theregulationimplementstwotypesofban:- Testingban:toprohibittheanimaltesting

offinishedproductsorcosmeticingredients- Marketingban:toprohibitfinished

productsorcosmeticsingredientsintheEUtestedonanimalstothemarket

Table2InformationsonRegulation(EC)No1223/2009

IftheRegulation(EC)No1223/2009isglobalforcosmeticproducts,someregulationsaremorespecifictopackaging,especiallytopackagingwaste.Someofthoseregulationsarepresentedinthefollowingpart.

1.3.2 Regulationsrelatedtopackaging

EUdirectiveonPackagingandPackagingWaste[57]

Theobjectivesofdirective94/62/ECof20December1994onpackagingandpackagingwastearetoharmonizenationalmeasuresconcerningthemanagementofpackagingtoensureahighlevelofenvironmentalprotectionandthereductionofwaste.Concerningthe scope, it covers all packaging placed on the market, used or released in shops,householdsoranyotherplace,regardlessofthematerialused.Aspackaging,itmeans“allproductsmadeofanymaterialsofanynaturetobeusedforthecontainment,protection,handling,deliveryandpresentationofgoods,fromrawmaterialstoprocessedgoods,fromtheproducertotheuserortheconsumer.‘Non-returnable’itemsusedforthesamepurposesshallalsobeconsideredtoconstitutepackaging”[57].

In 2018, Directive (EU) 2018/852 amends Directive 94/62/EC and contains updatedmeasuresconsideringcirculareconomy[58].

Themainrequirementsofthisdirectivefocusonthelimitationofpackagingweightandvolumeregardingtherequiredlevelofsafetyandhygiene,thereductiontheamountofhazardoussubstancesandmaterialsandtheencouragementofreusablepackaging.

Italsoestablishedrulesconcerningtherecyclabilityofdifferentpackagingmaterialsby2025andby2030.Thetargetsforplastic,wood,ferrousmetals,aluminium,glass,paper

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andcardboardvaryfrom25%to75%for2015andfrom30%to85%for2030[58](table3).

Material 2025recyclabilitytarget 2030recyclabilitytargetPlastic 50% 55%Wood 25% 30%

Ferrousmetals 70% 80%Aluminium 50% 60%Glass 70% 75%

Paperandcardboard 75% 85%Table3RecyclabilitytargetsofDirective2018/852

REACH(Registration,Evaluation,AuthorizationandrestrictionofCHemicals)[59]

Established in 2007, REACH regulation aims to protect human health and theenvironment by evaluating the limitation of hazardous substances used in finishedproducts.TheregulationchecksthattheproductputontheEUmarketisfreeofSVHCorSubstance of Very High Concern. A SVHC is a substance classified as cancerogenic,mutagenic,toxicforreproductionorpersistentandbioaccumulative.Thisrestrictionisapplicableforseveraltypesofpackagingsuchasplasticpackaging,paperpackagingorsteelpackaging.A list of hazardous substances isprovidedandprohibits for exampleBisphenolPorDihexylPhthalate.

1.3.3 Thecompanyspecificrulesforpackagingmaterials

Whendevelopinganewproduct,L’Oréalemployeesshouldevidentlytakeintoaccountthedifferentregulationslinkedtotheirproduct inordertobeabletosell theminthemarket.However,thegrouphasalsodecidedtodevelopitsownpackagingpolicy.

Regardingthematerialsused,L’Oréalhasdecided,since2018,tostopusingPVC-basedmaterialsintheirfinishedproducts[17].PVChasindeedseveralenvironmentalissues,warnedin2000inaGreenpaperbythecommissionoftheEuropeancommunities[60].ThisreportpresentsthedifferentproblemsappearinginthealllifecycleofPVC.Themostimpactfulistheneedofadditives,especiallyhazardousstabilizerssuchasheavymetalsorchlorine,usedtomakethePVC flexible.Theuseofsuchmaterials isdangerous forhumanhealth,itcandevelopcancerorhormonedisruption[60]

Moreover, the Group has decided to demand food grade certified material for thepackagesindirectcontactwiththeformula[61].Thispreventsmigrationofthepossibleresiduals or impurities from container to the content, assuring the good safety andconservation of the product. For that, the group applies European Directive2022/72/EEC [62]. To be foodgrade compliant, each packaging should conduct labtesting under different temperature conditions. This regulation is constraining when

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usingrecycledmaterials,becausesomesubstancescanremaininthosematerials,makingthefoodgradetestfail[62].

Regarding wood-based packaging, the Group has the ambition to make paper andcarboardpackagingfromsustainablemanagedforest[63].ThisaspectiscertifiedbyFSCorPEFCstandards,forForestStewardshipCouncilandProgramfortheEndorsementofForestCertification.Bothcertificationsaimatensuringthegoodmanagementofforestsand protect them against destruction [64]. Today, the company informs that it hasachieved100%ofthepaperand99,9%ofthecardboardmadefromsustainablemanagedforest,accordingtobothcertifications[63].

1.4 Guidancetowardssustainability

1.4.1 Eco-designguidanceingeneral

Designistheessenceofhowaproductisformed,anditisthekeybasisforsustainableinnovation [65]. The EU has established Eco-design directive to force inclusion ofenvironmental dimensions in product development [66]. It should integrateenvironmentaldimensionoverthealllifecycleoftheproduct,fromitsproductiontotheendoflife.Furthermore,academiaandotherinstitutionshavedevelopedguidelinesandconceptsforeco-design.In2013,LindahlandEkermannhavedefinedeco-designas“away of better design through analyzing and synthetizing in order to reduceenvironmental impact throughout the product’s life cycle” [67]. Today, there arenumerousdefinitions,conceptsandtoolsforecodesign[67].Forthisstudy,theapproachpresentedisestablishedbyanassociationcalledPôleEcoconception.Itsroleistohelpcompaniestobetterintegrateeco-designintheirstrategy[68].

Theapproachcanberepresentedbyawheelarticulatedaround6steps(Fig.6)

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Fig6:Aneco-conceptionmodel,adaptedfrom[68]

The step A is the first step, which consists in identifying the service or product thecompanywants to improve.This choice shouldbearguedand justified.Theneedcancomefromcustomerdemand,marketingdemandorachangetocompletethecompany’scommitments.Thestrategycandifferfromaprojecttoanother.Onesolutionistochoosethe product that presents the biggest volume of sales to have a real impact on theenvironment.However,anotherpossibilitycanbetochooseaproductthathassmallerquantitiestocontroltherisklevelsiftheprocessisnew.Customersperceptionshouldnotbeneglected,butitcanhappenthatthereisashiftbetweenwhatpeoplethinkandtherealityofthebeneficefortheenvironment.Thisshiftcanleadtowhatiscalledtoday“greenwashing”, which should be avoided. The Cambridge dictionary definesgreenwashingasthe“behaviororactivitiesthatmakepeoplebelievethatacompanyisdoingmoretoprotecttheenvironmentthanitreallyis”[69].

ThisisthereasonwhystepBiscrucial.Itwillanswertothequestions:Whataretherealenvironmental issues ofmy product? Which life-cycle stage does it affect? TowhichproductwouldIcomparethenewproduct?Foranewproduct,anexpertteamshouldrealizealifecycleassessmenttoevaluatetheenvironmentalimpactofthisproduct.Forarenovation,thenewproductiscomparedtotheoldproductorasimilarproduct.

Once thereference ischosen, stepCscans theallproduct lifecycle toselect themostrelevantactiontoputinplacefortheproducteco-conception,fromtheextractiontotheendoflifeoftheproduct(Fig.7).Afterdesigningtheproduct,thechoiceofthematerialscanbevery impactful. Forexample, it ispreferable to choose recycledor long lastingmaterials[65].Then,comesthemanufacturingstage.Theprocessshouldbeoptimizedin

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ordertosaveenergyorreducewaste.Aftertheproductistransportedtobedistributedinthedifferentsellingplaces.Thisstepcanhaveabigimpactontheproduct’sfootprint,so it is important to improve the entire logistical transportation, from storage to thedelivery to customer. Local manufacturing can answer this potential issue, since itpermitstoavoidairtraffic,themostimpactingmeansoftransport[69].Thenextstepoftheeco-designwheelconcernsthepointofsale.Therearedifferentwaystoimprovethestoressustainability, forexamplebyreducingtheamountofmaterials inpoint-of-saledisplays,orusinglow-powerlightening.Finally,aftertheproductisused,itsend-of-lifeisthekeypointtoclosetheloop.Thus,itisimportantthattheproductbecomposedofrecyclablematerials,orbedesignedforrecoveryandrecycling.Theexperimentalpartofthisthesiswilldetailtheconditionsforproductrecyclability.

Fig7Theecodesignwheel[65]

To choose among all those possibilities, it is important to consult the collaboratorsimpliedoneachimprovement.StepD(Fig.6)iscrucialtomakeadecision.Thiscallsforawork with buyers to consult subcontractors or find others ones, depending on thetechnicalfeasibilityandcost.Ifthechangeimpliesanewdesign,itisessentialtoconsultthemarketing.Thoseareexamples,buteachpathstudied involvesseveralpersons toconsult[68].

Now that oneormore solutions areproposed, stepEpermits to assure that thenewproduct is better than the reference. This step necessitates conducting a new LCA,consideringthenewparameterswiththesamemethodologyusedforstepB.

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Communicationontheeco-designedproductisthefinalstepofeco-conception.Thegoalistolendcredibletotheeco-designedproduct,toavoidgreenwashingandreinforcethecompany image. Standard for communication exists, the ISO 14020. It describes fourtargetsregardingtocommunication:themessageshouldberelevant,exact,verifiableandnotmisleading[70].

1.4.2 Eco-designguidanceforcosmeticpackaginga. Goldenrulesforpackagingeco-design

Theeco-designmodelpresentedisappliedforcosmeticpackaging.Whenlookingatthelifecycleofaluxurycosmeticsproduct,thepackagingisoftenthemostimpactful[17].Itincludestheprocessingoftherawmaterial,itstransformationandtransporttothefillingandpackingsite.Toreducesignificantlytheimpactofaproduct,thesolutionistoeco-designitspackaging.

Following the guidelines presented in part 1.3 and driven by the sustainablecommitments,L’Oréalestablished10rulesforeco-design,presentedintable4withanillustrationofaconcreteexampleforeachrule[71]:

Rule AgroupexampleOnlyusepackagingthatis

safeforhumanandenvironmentalhealth

PVCsuppression

Reducematerialsuse(weightand/orvolume)

1Lshampoo,reductionof13%ofitsweight

Donotuseexcessorunnecessarypackaging

Removalofinstruction,printingonthebackofthecarton

Givepreferencetolargeformatswheneverpossible

GarnierFructismaxiformat400ml

Givepreferencetomaterialswhichhavelessimpact

CardboardtubeLaRochePosay

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Onlyusepaper&cardboardthatcomesfromsustainably

managedsourcesFSC,PEFCcertification

Avoidburdenshiftingwhereverpossible

Lighterbottlepermitstosavematerials,butasaresult,palletscannotbestacked.Moretrucksarethenneededtotransportthe

finishedproduct.

Reuse

TheformulaofAquaMagnificaofSanofloreisrefillable

Guideconsumersintheireco-friendlygestures

Mention“removethepumpfromthisbottlebeforeputtingitintherecyclingbin”

Makesureyourpackagingendsitsliferespectfully

Useofcompatibleplasticsforrecycling

Table4Eco-designruleswithexamples

b. Atoolforeco-design:SPOT

Tofacilitatetheeco-designandcommunicationrelatedtoenvironmentalimpactsofnewlaunchesortorenovateproducts,L’OréalhasdevelopeditsownevaluationtoolSPOT,forSustainableProductOptimizationTool.With thesupportof internationalexperts, thistool hasbeen created to score the environmental and social impact of everyproduct,takingintoaccountmanycriteriaallalongthelifecycleoftheproduct[72].

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One the one hand, the environmental score includes the impacts coming from threesources: thepackaging, theformulaandthemanufacturing.Foreachof thosesources,severalcriteriaaretakenfromthefourteencriteriaestablished,suchasCO2emissions.Theyareweightedconsideringactualresourceslimitationsandworld’senvironmentalchallenges.Forexample, thebiodegradabilityof theformulaortherecyclabilityof thepackagingareweighted.

On the other hand, SPOT is the 1st methodology that calculates the social impact ofcosmeticsproductsontheirstakeholders:employeesandsuppliers, localcommunitiesand consumers. The focus is based on three criteria: faire practices and workingconditions,healthandsafety,socialandcommunitydevelopment.

Fig8SPOTscoring

Thus,theenvironmentalandsocialscoresdefinethefinalscoreoftheproduct,calledtheProductSustainabilityIndex,orPSI.Themaximumscoreis10.Theclosertheproductto10,thebetteritssustainability.

If this toolpermits to scoreeachproduct, it canalsobeusedasa simulation tool.Bychanging different parameters such as the packagingmaterials or supplier, the scoreincreasesordecreases,helpingtheidentificationofpotentialdesignimprovement.Forinstance,iftheproductevaluatedonFig.8isrenovated,thenewproductshouldhaveascorehigher than7.6. In this thesis, thesimulatingaspectofSPOT isused, to find thedifferentleverstochangeandseetheirimpactonthefinalscoreoftheproduct.

ThankstoSPOT,100%ofneworrenovatedproductshavebeenevaluatedinordertocommunicatethesocialandenvironmentalprofileofeachproducttotheconsumersby2020.Thus,thispromotestransparencybetweentheconsumerandthegroupregardingtheenvironmentalimpactoftheproductstheybuy.

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2 Experimental

Thispartissplitintotworesearchquestions:Howapplicablearethecurrentcompanyguidancefortheluxurypackaging:prospectsandcontradictionsinfollowingthe10rulesfor eco-design (RQ1) and which are the possibilities and disruptors in cosmeticspackagingmaterialrecycling(RQ2).Foreachquestion,thedifferentmethodsusedareexplainedbasedontwostudiedcases,describedinpart2.1.

2.1 Productsstudied

InArmaniandHelenaRubinstein scope,primarypackagingareeitherplasticorglassmajority.Thus,thestudyfocusesononeclassicArmaniproduct,withsimplecomposition(Fig.9)andoneglassproductofHelenaRubinsteinwhichisoneofthebrand’sbestseller(Fig.10).

2.1.1 ProductA

Thefirstproductchosenisa200mlshowergelfromArmaniwithplasticasthemainmaterial.

It iscomposedofaclearPETplasticbottleof29.3gramsandagreyPPcapof6.5grams.

2.1.2 ProductB

This50mlglass jar isan iconicproduct fromtheBrandHelenaRubinstein, called Powercell Skinmunity. Inside the glass jarthereisaplasticjarcontainingthecream.

Thecompositionisdetailedintable5:

Part Material Weight(g) ColorGlassjar Soda-limeglass 223.0 GreenPlasticjar PP 17.5 WhiteCap PP 23.8 Metallized

Table5ProductBcomposition

Fig9ProductA

Fig10ProductB

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2.2 RQ1:Howapplicablethe10eco-designrulesare?

2.2.1 Approachtaken

Thechoiceofeco-designimprovementisnotobvious.Dependingontheactionchosen,manyactorsareimpliedandeachlittlechangecanendtobigconsequences.Basedonthe10rulesforeco-design,andforbothproductAandB,mainconsequencesaredetailed.Thishelpstounderstandthebrakesoneco-design.Thestudyisdonebyinterviewingtwoexpertswhoareresponsibleforthecaseproducts.Interviewisopen,takingtheformofadiscussion.

2.2.2 Questionnairetemplate

Theinterviewisstructuredaccordingtothe10eco-designrules.Thequestionsregardingtoeachoftheruleisasfollows:

1. Istheruleeasytoapplyfortheproduct?2. Whatis/whicharethemainchallenge(s)?3. Whatwouldmakeiteasiertoapplytherule?

Asacommonquestion:Howtomakeeco-designingeneraleasiertoapply?

Theresultswillbesummarizedandpresentedinthetemplatebelow:

Ruleforeco-design Q&A

Onlyusepackagingthatissafeforhumanandenvironmentalhealth

1

2

3

Reducematerialsuse(weightand/orvolume)

1

2

3

Donotuseexcessorunnecessarypackaging

1

2

3

Givepreferencetolargeformatswhenever

possible

1

2

3

1

2

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Givepreferencetomaterialswhichhaveless

impact

3

Onlyusepaper&cardboardthatcomesfromsustainablymanagedsources

1

2

3

Avoidburdenshiftingwhereverpossible

1

2

3

Reuse

1

2

3

Guideconsumersintheireco-friendlygestures

1

2

3

Makesureyourpackagingendsitslife

respectfully

1

2

3 Table6Questionnairetemplate

2.3 RQ2:Howtoevaluatetherecyclabilityofcosmeticspackaging?

2.3.1 Informationgathering

Inpreliminaryresultsitbecomesclearthatthereislackofunderstandingonthepracticalrecyclingprocessfordifferentmaterialsandmaterialcombinationinpackages.Inorderto make recyclability better applied, a tool for visualizing the recycling process wasdeveloped.Toconstructthistoolitisimportanttounderstandthedifferentstepsofthesortingandrecyclabilityprocesses.Thosestepsaredifferentifthematerialismainlyinplastic(productA)ormainlyinglass(productB),sincebothendindifferentbinssoindifferentfacilities.

The recycling processwas studied by seeking information from the French companyCITEO,specializedinpackagingrecyclability[73]andbyworkingwiththesustainablepackaging team from L’Oréal. The attempt was to build a flowchart of the recycling

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processes forpackages thatwillhelpproductdevelopers toassess therecyclabilityoftheirproduct.

2.3.2 Flowcharttemplate

Foreachpackagingtype,glassorplasticmajority,aflowchartisdeveloped,basedontheunderstandingof thesortingandrecyclingstepsandonthedisruptors identified.Thesimplifiedtemplateoftheflowchartispresentedbelow:

Fig11Flowcharttemplate

Beginning at the top of the flowchart, the person checks if the product respects thedifferentconditionsandsub-conditionsandfollowsthearrows.Attheend,thepersonusing it knows if its product is recyclable or not, and the recyclability percentageobtained.Knowingthispercentageforeachproductofthecatalogorforfuturelaunchespermitstoassessthepercentageofrecyclabilityofthebrand,thusforthegroup,knowingthatthegoalistoreach100%ofrecyclableorrefillablepackaging,accordingtotheEllenMacArthur2025commitment.

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3 Results

3.1 RQ1:Applicabilityofthe10eco-designrules

The interviewlastedaboutonehour,processingquestionbyquestion.At theend, thediscussionwasmore opened. All results are a summary of answers given. For somequestions,productAandBareclearlyseparated.Ifitisnotspecified,theanswerconcernsbothproducts.

Asareminder,thethreequestionsforeachruleare:

1. Istheruleeasytoapplyfortheproduct?2. Whatis/whicharethemainchallenge(s)?3. Whatwouldmakeiteasiertoapplytherule?

Rulesforeco-design Q. Answers

Onlyusepackagingthatissafeforhumanandenvironmentalhealth

1 Yes,easy,becausewecanonlyusematerialsvalidatedbyL’Oréal.

2 Ifwewanttodevelopanewmaterial,wehavetotestitandittakestime(6monthsatleast)tomakeitsLCAandtocertifytheyrespectthedifferentregulations

(FDA,REACH)

3 Alreadyeasyatitismandatory.

Reducematerialsuse(weightand/orvolume)

1 Noteasyforluxury

2 Consumersperception:theheavierthemoreluxurious

3 Itwouldbeeasierifluxuryartworkcanbeproposedeveniflighterweight:Thereisaneedtoproposealternativesolutioninordernottolosetheluxury

perception.

Change/evolutionofconsumerperceptiononluxuryproducts:thelessisthebetter.

Donotuseexcessorunnecessarypackaging

1 Dependsonthepackaging.Someunnecessarypartsfortheconsumerareactuallynecessarytoprotectthe

product

2 Forglasspackaging(productB):Glassproductsarequitefragile,soweneedacorrugatedcartontoholditsafely.Today,notechnicalsolutiontoremoveit.

Forallpackaging:Aestheticdemandformarketing,theproductshouldkeepitsluxuryperception.To justify the price: the more packaging, the morejustifiedtheprice.

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3 Designstronger/lessfragileproducts.Thinkaboutthegeometryfromthebeginningtoavoidcorrugated

cartonoradditionalparts.

Givepreferencetolargeformatswhenever

possible

1 Noteasy

2 Plasticpackaging(productA):Consumerperceptionforplasticproduct,bigformatscanbeassociatedwith

mass-marketproducts.Glasspackaging(productB):Bigformatcanbetoo

expensivefortheconsumer.Today,customerprofiledonothavethebuyerpowerforlargeformatinluxury.

Noteasyfortravelling

3 Haveasmallrechargeableformatwiththebigoneasarecharge.Thisway,thecustomercanbringthelittleformatishis/herbagandletthebigoneathome.

Givepreferencetomaterialswhichhave

lessimpact

1 Noteasy

2 Plasticpackaging:someplasticsarenotrecyclablebuthavebetterproperties(moreshining,moreresistant).Sometimesitisnottechnicallyfeasibletochange.

Ifwewanttoincorporaterecycledmaterials,itcanhaveanaestheticimpact(thecolorismoregreyish)

whichthemarketisnotreadytohave.Also,ifthereisalotofrecycledPETavailableassourcematerial,itisnot

thecaseofotherplastics.

Todaythereisnosubstitutionavailableforsomenon-recyclable/less-ecofriendlymaterials.

3 Dolotoftrialswithrecyclable/ecofriendlymaterialstomakeitmoreattractiveformarketing.Time/moneyinvestmentneeded.

Onlyusepaper&cardboardthatcomesfromsustainablymanagedsources

1 Easy,alreadymandatorytouseFSCcardboard

2 Nobigchallengebecauseallsupplierstodayalreadyhaverobustsustainablesourcesforcardboardand

paper(FSC)

3 /

Avoidburdenshiftingwhereverpossible

1 Noteasy,anysmallchangecouldimpacttheotherpartofthechain

2 Example:ifweremovethecorrugatedcardboard,weneedadditionaltransportationtestsforthee-com.

Timeandenergyconsuming.

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Finally,aftertheinterviewaglobalquestionwasasked:Howtomaketheeco-designeasiertoapply?

Basedontheresultscollectedandthefinaldiscussion,threemainpointssuggestwhatshouldbedonetobetterdevelopeco-design:

è Design itself needs to be more and more oriented to be eco-design since thebeginning.

è To guide the marketing, to propose alternative solutions. Time and costinvestmentsarethenneeded.

è Lotofcommunicationcampaigninordertochangetheconsumerperception,toraisetheirawarenesstousemoreeco-friendlydesign.

3 Tohaveallthetestscentralizedinordertoavoidanyburdenshifting.

Reuse

1 Notthateasy

2 Requiresstrongbusinessmodeltokeepitprofitableforthecompany.Developmentoftherechargeistimeand

cost-consuming.

3 Tohavealreadyexistingrechargeablepackagingtopropose.

ProductA:findbottleof200mlwithrechargethatareavailableinthesupplier

Guideconsumersintheireco-friendly

gestures

1 Notthateasy

2 Becausethecompanyproposesproductsworldwidebutregulationsarenotthesameineachcountry(what

todowiththewasteoftheproduct).

Itistime-consumingtoshifttheconsumerbehavior(example:touselesswaterwhenusingshampoo).

3 Tohavethesameregulationseverywherearoundtheworld,especiallyforrecycling

Makesureyourpackagingendsitslife

respectfully

1 Noteasy

2 Eachcountrynothavethesameability/knowledgeforrecycle.

Consumerbehavior:theyhavetothrowtheproductis

therightbin.

3 Toavoidfromthedesignusingthematerialthatcoulddisrupttherecyclabilityoftheproductorevenusing

materialsthatarenotrecyclableatall.Table7Answersfortheeco-designquestionnaire

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3.2 RQ2:Evaluationoftherecyclabilityofcosmeticpackaging

3.2.1 ProductArecycling

For productA, as themainmaterial is plastic the process is divided into two chains:sorting and recycling. Depending on the country, the steps can vary but the schemespresentedaretraditionalstepsofhowaplasticproductisrecycled.

a. Sortingfacilities

In this section, I explain the sorting process (sources for the data). The numbers inbrackets(x)indicateapotentialobstaclefortherecyclingprocess.Theseobstaclesarecollected in the table 7.Onceplastic packaging arrives in the sorting center, they aresorted by a trammel to be separated by size and shape. If a packaging is too small,approximatelyunder20ml,itisexcludedfromthesortingchain(1).Then,ametalsortingisperformedthankstoeddycurrent.Metallicpartsareattractedbyamagneticoverband.Ifthemetallicpartcannotbeseparatedfromtheplasticpackage,itcandisruptthesortingoftheproduct(2).

Then, the remaining items go through optical sorting; an infrared laser detects thedifferentmaterials.Dependingonthecenter,thelasercandetectdifferentkindsofresins:PET,PPorPE.Ifthesurfaceoftheproductisreflectiveorifthecoloristoodark,thelasercannotdetecttheproduct,whichisthenejected(3).Beforebaling,humaneyeremainsessential to assure a good quality of sortedmaterials, regarding the sorting by color,shapeormatter(4).

Fig12Sortingstagesofplasticpackaging

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Table7presentstheDisruptorsinthedifferentstagesofpackagingmaterialrecycling.Thenumberinbrackets(1-4)refertothefurtherexplanationinthetext.

Step DisruptorsBallisticseparation Product<20ml(1)

Metalsseparation Mixedplastic/metalpackaging,non-magneticmetals(2)

Opticalsorting Reflectivesurface(metallizedsurfaceforexample)Darkpackaging(3)

Manualsorting Otherresins(PVC,PS,SAN,etc)(4)Table8Sortingdisruptors

Theidentificationofthosedisruptorswillhelptofilltheflowchartinordertodeterminetherecyclabilityofaproduct,andwhatshouldbechangedtomakeaproductrecyclable.

b. Mechanicalrecycling

Oncesorted,eachmaterialfollowsitsownrecyclingfacility.Theplasticbalesobtainedareopenedandundergoopticalandmetalsorting.Thisstepisoptionaldependingonthecenter,sincethissortingshouldhavealreadybeendoneinthesortingcenter.Aftertheshreddingwhere theproducts aregroundup into flakes (1), the itemsarewashed inorder to remove impurities as inksor glue that coulddegrade thequalityof the finalmaterial(2).

Theflotationstepspermittoseparatethedifferentpartsofaproductdependingontheirdensity(3).Asthedensityofwateris1,theflakeswithadensityhigherthan1sink,andtheonewithadensitylowerthan1float.Somecentersarefittedwithanotheropticalsortingsteptoeliminateundesirablematerials:otherplastics,metal,etc.andtosortallflakesbycolor.

Finally, the remainingmaterials aremelted, extrudedand shaped intogranulates, thefinalproductthatwillcreatenewpackaging.

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Fig13Recyclingstagesofplasticpackaging

Asforthesortingcenter,alistofdisruptorscanbeestablishedfortherecyclingprocess(table6).Disruptorsarethesameforopticalandmetalsorting:

Step Disruptors

ShreddingIndivisibilityoflayersorpackaging

elements,suchasplasticswithaluminumlayer(1)

Washing Non-washableglues,pollutinginks(2)

FlotationImpossibleseparabilityofmaterialswithsimilardensities(elementsofd>1onPETpackaging,d<1forPE/PPpackaging)(3)

Table9Recyclingdisruptors

c. Plasticmajorityproductflowchart

WiththedisruptorsidentifiedforbothsortingandrecyclingprocessesandbasedontheEllenMacArthurconditions,theflowchartforplasticmajorityproductissetup.

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Fig14Recyclabilityflowchartforplasticpackaging

d. ProductArecyclabilityevaluation

The flowchart is a tool to determine the recyclability of a product. Thus, product Arecyclability canbe assessed following thedifferent tool’s paths, representedby boldarrows.Redarrowsgotothe“non-recyclable”tag.

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This part concerns the format and artworkdisruption.Thefirstparametertocheckistheproductvolume, if it ishigheror lowerthan20ml.ProductAisa200mlbottlesoitisnotejected by the trammel during the sortingphase. Then, the person needs to check ifthereisanydisruptivesurfacesuchasshiningsurfaceordarkmasterbatch.If it isthecase,the laser can not detect the plastic since iteitherisreflectedorabsorbedbythesurface.Fortheshowergel, thebottle is transparentand the cap grey, so there is no problem ofsurfacedisruption.

According to the EllenMacArthur commitment, onlyPET, PE and PP bottles and PEjars are recyclable formats. ThePETbottleofproductAisthenagoodcandidatetoberecycled.

Finally, the last part of the flowchartreviews theotherelements composingtheproduct.Inthepresentcase,thetextisdirectlywrittenonthebottle,sothereisnodisruptivelabel.TheotherpartofthePETbottleisthePPcap,whichhasadensitylowerthanone.Thus,productAis100%recyclable.

Fig15FlowchartofproductArecyclability

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3.2.2 ProductBrecycling

a. Mechanicalrecycling

TheproductBismainlycomposedofglasssoitendsinadifferentbin,specializedforglassitems.Afterbeingcollected,thefirststepisthematuration.Thispassivecleaningallowstoeliminateorganicpartintheopenair.Thenamanualsortingpermitstosortallbigelementsdifferentfromglassmaterial;itcanbecardboardorplasticproductsthatwheresortedinthewrongbin.Magneticmetallicelementsarethenexpelledthankstoamagnetandeddycurrent.Thenextstepistheshredding,asforplastictheproductaregroundupandtheglassistransformedintoculletofvarioussizes.Thescreeningsortsculletbysize,from10to15mm,calibratedattherequestofglassmakers.Lightelementssuchasplasticarethenejectedduringtheblastingstage.

Finally, the optical sorting is the crucial step, with three roles. The laser detects theopacityofmaterialsinordertoidentifyandejectinfusiblematerials,suchasceramicsthat have a melting temperature higher than the one of the glass. Those infusiblematerialscandegradethequalityoftherecycledglasssincetheydonotmelt.Thus,ifthesurfaceisreflectiveoriftheculletisopaque,thelaserdoesnotdetecttheglass.Thelaseralsosortscolorlessculletfromcoloredone,dependingontheglassmakerwish.Finally,itconductsaseparationbynatureofglass,keepingonlysoda-limeglass.Allotherglasstypesareejected.

Fig16Sortingstepsofglasspackaging

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Culletarefinallysenttotheglassmaker.Afteranothermaturationandfusionat1550°C,newitemsaremade.

Disruptorsforglassrecyclingaresummarizedinthetablebelow:

Step DisruptorsManualsorting UndesirablematerialsotherthanglassMetalssorting Non-magneticmetals

Opticalsorting Non-sodalimeglassOpaqueorreflectivesurfaces

Table10Disruptorsforglasssorting

Thus,forcosmeticproductsthemainconstraintistheopacityoftheglass.However,iftheinitialproductisfreefromdisruptors,theglasscanbeinfinitelyrecycled.

b. Glassmajorityflowchart

ThetranslationofthedisruptorsidentifiedintoarecyclingflowchartispresentedbyFig17.

Fig17Recyclabilityflowchartforglasspackaging

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c. ProductBrecyclabilityevaluation

As forproductA, theassessmentofproductB is realizedusing the flowchartof glassmajoritypackaging,stepbystep.

Thefirstthingtocheckisthenatureoftheglass.Onlysoda-limeglassisindeedrecyclable.ThisisthecaseofproductB.

Then, theonlythingthatcouldpreventthe recycling of glass packaging is itsopacity.Inourcase,theglassisnotfullyopaque,but it isnot translucenteither.Inthiscase,theproductshouldbesentto a recycling center to test itsdetectabilityby the laser. It isassumedinthisstudythattheproductpassestheopticalsorting.

ThemetallizedPPcapandthePPjarofproductBwillnotberecycled.However,those parts do not disrupt the glassrecyclability, so they correspond tothe“Others”tag.

To establish the final recyclabilitypercentage of the product, theamountof“others”partsiscalculated.

BasedonthecompositionofproductB,thetotalweightofthepackagingis264.3g,with223.0gofglassand41.3gofPPparts.

Thus,otherpartsrepresent15.6%ofthe total weight of the product. Thefinal product is then calculatedwith100-15.6=84.4. The recyclability ofproductBis84.4%.

15.6

84.4%

Fig18FlowchartofproductBrecyclability

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Conclusion

Many factors encourage companies to contribute to sustainable development and toreducetheirnegativeimpactsontheirproductsandactivities.Theluxurysectorisnotexempted.Itshouldbeproactiveandexemplarytoproposeimpeccableandsustainableproducts, desirable for its consumers. Special attention is given to packaging, oftenassociatedwithwasteandsometimeswith toxicity.Yet, theyplayanessential role toassurethesales,protectionandeasetouse.

TheproblematicofthisthesiswastoproposesolutionstoimprovetheenvironmentalimpactofArmaniandHelenaRubinstein,twoluxurybrandsfromL’Oréal,withafocusonpackaging.Toanswertothisproblematic,wehavestudiedeco-designrulesforpackagingandthechallengesimplicated.Then,wemaderesearchesonplasticandglasspackagingrecyclability.

Thus,thisthesisgaveknowledgesaboutthedifferentactionsthatcanbeconductedtomakeapackaginggreener.Byinterviewingtwoproductdevelopers,weunderstoodthatmanyofthoseactionsimplyanaestheticchangethatcanchangecustomerperception.Tobetter integrate eco-design,more alternatives should be found,without changing theproductquality.Furthermore,eco-designshouldbethoughtfromthebeginning,whenthemarketingproposesaproject,andweneedtocommunicatemoreontheenvironmenttoheightencustomerawareness.Then,abigpartofmyworkwastounderstandthefunctioningofsortingandrecyclingfacilities for both plastic and glass packaging. This abled to give a list of recyclingdisruptors;forcosmeticpackagingthemaindisruptorsaretheshinysurfacesthatarenotdetectedbythelaser,somematerialsusedarenotrecyclables,andlittleproducts,make-upmostofthetime,aretoosmalltoberecycled.Tohelpproductdeveloperstoassesstherecyclabilityoftheirproducts,aflowchartwassetup.Thistoolpermitstocalculatethepercentageofrecyclabilityofaglassorplasticpackaging.

LimitsandperspectivesAsrecyclingandsortingcentersaredifferentdependingonthecountries,theflowchartwas inspired by the French recycling company CITEO and the Ellen MacArthurcommitment.Thus,itisnotauniversaltool.Overtheyearsanddependingonthecountry,itcanbechanged.AtL’Oréal,itisnotdefinedyethowthisflowchartisgoingtobeused.Thequestionnowishowtomakethistooltheeasiestandforwhoitwillbeaddressed:themarketing?Productdevelopers?Iwassurprisedduringmyresearchworktoseethatsustainabilityisaveryoldconceptandthatthequestionsthirtyyearsagoarethesametoday.However,thisprojectmademerealizethatsustainabilityisaverylongprocessthatimpliesalotofactors,timeandcost.Ithinkitisveryimportanttohaveanambitiousprogramwithclearobjectives.

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