Prepared by- Rashmi Pandey, DHRTC, Garhakota

Topic no.16 : Pebble garden, rockery, pools, waterfalls and fountains

PEBBLE AND GRAVEL GARDEN

Pebbles and gravels are less expensive and flexible alternative to paving of a lawn. It can be used

in both formal and informal designs.

Types of Pebbles: Pebbles comes in different sizes and colors. Some types are angular, others are

rounded, some are white, and others are assorted shades of green or red.

Types of pebble garden: 1. Pebble Path 2. Pebbles Bed

1. Pebble Path: It is often used as drives, but it is also good choice for informal paths with in the

garden. However it is not a good choice for paths where you will have to wheel the

mower.

Procedure to establish pebble path

a. Excavate the area to a depth of 15cm and ram the base firm

b. Provide brick or stout edge to retain the gravel

c. First place a layer of compacted hardcore. Add a mixture of sand and course gravel.

d. Top up to the required height with the final grade gravel. Rake and roll the gravel

repeatedly until the surface is firm and stable.

2. Pebble beds: Pebbles can be used as straight substitute for grass and require much less

maintenance.

Procedure to establish Pebble bed

a. Excavate the area to required depth of about 15cm

b. Level the ground lay heavy duty black polythene or a mulching sheet over the area

c. Then spread the gravel on top and rake level

d. To plant through the gravel, draw it back from the planting area and make a slit in the

polythene plant normally. Firm in and pull back the polythene before recovering with

gravel.

ROCK GARDEN

Rock Garden: Rocks and soils are arranged such a fashion that conditions is created for the

growth of different plants. In nature, rocks may be getting covered with different colored moss

and if soil collected in cracks and crevices of rocks, plants grow there naturally.

Selection of site: It is easy to create rock garden where natural rocks are available nearby. But

large rock garden should be situated in a place where there will fit with the other garden features.

Apart from this corners, middle part of informal garden, under large trees are better places for

creating rock garden.

Characteristics of rocks: The rocks should be of local origin, porous and have a weathered look.

Stones having diameter of 60cm or more should be selected. As well as the rock plants growing in

rocks itself.

Types of rockery:

Common types are a. Tyre type of rockery b. round rockery c. Rectangular rockery d. Square

rockery e. Rockery under tree e. Alpine rockery f. Flat type rockery

Construction procedure :

1. First plan of the rock garden should be prepared on paper.

2. Selected site should be marked out by using bars and pegs.

3. The base should be filled with sufficient quantity of broken bricks, small stones and sand for

proper drainage.

4. Form the mound of required height by filling sufficient quantity of soil, the mound should be

allowed to settle for some time and formed by beating.

5. Create the steps, place the stones on the mound, the stone should be placed in a slightly slanting

position gently leaning backwards, so that rain water and during watering, it flows towards the

plant roots.

6. Sufficient number of pockets is created between stones for growing plants. While placing rocks

side by side, they should be placed as close as possible otherwise soil will be washed away. Gaps

between two stones should be covered with concrete. Concrete should be restricted to minimum.

7. Add garden soils up to a depth of 30cm. Mix together equal parts of sand and FYM.

8. Position the plants along with the pots so that one can see how they look and can move them

around easily if necessary.

9. Use a trowel to take out a hole a little larger than root ball, plant is at correct depth, then tight

loose soil around the roots and firms it well.

10. Finish off rockery by covering the surface by small pebbles, which increases the beauty and

prevents soil erosion.

Maintenance

Weeding: Periodical weeding is necessary to remove the weeds, which are competing with plants.

In addition to this all dried and dead leaves should be removed from the branches of the plants.

Stalking: Stalking is necessary for newly planted tall plants to prevent the physical damages and

to obtain the straight growth.

Watering: Regular watering is necessary to keep the plants healthy and attractive. Watering

should be done at least once in three days. Drip system of irrigation may also be adopted.

Replacement of soil: Rockery plants need replacing of soil at least every 2-3 years as the soil

become sour and infertile.

Manuring: Plants may be top dressed every year with compost consisting of a good garden soil,

sand and fine leaf mould in equal proportion to the top few centimeters of soil is scraped out and

in its place new compost is filled in along with a little quantity (125g) bone meal depending upon

the plants. Periodically rock plants should be fed with liquid manure also.

Suitable plants

Annuals: All annuals may be accommodated in the rockery depending on their height in between

shrubs and other perennial plants. Asclepias, Calliandra, Clerodendron, Crossandra, Cuphea,

Euphorbia . Zinnia, Phlox, Verbena.

Shrubs: Duranta, Juniferous, Lantana sellowiana, Russelia juntia, Thuja orientalis etc.

Cacti and Succulents: Adiantum, Pony tail plant, Opontia, Cerus, Mumalaria, Agave,Kalanchoe,

Sansiveria, Yacca, Hawarthia, Furcarea, Sedum etc.

Ferns: Nephrolepsis, Polypodium and Adiantum etc.

Shade plants: Imparatiens sultaniana, Pedilanthes tithymaloides, Pilea muscosa,Portulaca sps,

minature roses, Zebrana pendula, Tradescantia albifolia, Vincea rosea etc.

In addition to above plants, with careful selection of large group of annuals, bulbous plants, other

shrubs and other ornamental plants can be selected and grown in the rockery depending upon the

necessity and environmental condition.

Garden Pools:

Pools are the most popular water features in a garden. These are a charming and versatile part

of any landscape. While planning a garden pool, its site, size, shape and style are to be given

important consideration. Pools are utilized in the garden for several purposes, for example, for

catching reflections of the sky, plants or flowers or some artificial features, for fountains

or water jets or for growing aquatic plants. Pools of various sizes and shapes can be made with

different materials. Bricks, blocks and poured concrete are the traditional pool builder’s

material. Ready made plastic and steel pools are also available.

Pools may be grouped into three broad styles rectangular, square or circular in shape. In many

situations naturalistic or informal pools look better. In the rock garden or along the course of a

small stream, the irregular form of pool is most attractive.

Garden pools provide scope to utilize the wonderful world of aquatic plants.

In a more naturalistic pool, the plants nearby should be those commonly associated

with water.

Planting around a pool should be made in such a way that it throws shadows and

reflections onto the water.

The water in a pool appears deeper if dark colouring is added to the concrete at the bottom.

Sometimes a small pool looks larger if kept clear.

Water falls

The presence of waterfalls in Japanese gardens is another attempt in imitating nature. A

waterfall may be made more effective by manipulating it to drop in two or three levels. To

make the waterfalls dignified and natural, large-sized stones are arranged around these. The

dense planting of evergreens around the waterfall also symbolizes mountain scenery where

actually a waterfall naturally belongs.

Fountains

Fountains are made to work by re-circulating or recycling the water contained in a pool.

Fountains in a running condition are very pleasant to look at.

They alone can be an attractive feature of a garden, since various designs are made with

them.

Fountains can be placed in a line along the centre of a water course. They may also be

placed in the centre of a pool.

In some designs, fountain jets come out from the rim of the circular water pool and meet

above its centre in the form of an umbrella.

In some layouts, a row of fountains with the highest on at the centre and then gradually

shorter ones towards the side form a beautiful composition.

Some cities of the world have used richly sculptured fountains in their designs.

Large fountains are being used in shopping mall and pedestrian plazas.

Small re-circulating fountains are available nowadays to bring new life to a patio area.

Illuminated running water and fountains decorated by coloured lighting further enhance

beauty.

References

1. Bose, T.K., D. Mukherjee,1977.Gardening in India

2. Randhawa, G.S. and A. Mukhopadhyaya, 1986. Floriculture in India

3. Arora, J.S. 1998. Introductory ornamental Horticulture

Prepared by- Rashmi Pandey, DHRTC, Garhakota

Topic no. 17 : Bog garden, avenue planting and children garden

BOG GARDEN

An actual bog is an area where there is stagnant acid water and only plants such as sundew, butter

worts, etc., grow. But the bog garden which we find in landscape gardening is actually a marsh

where the soil is not sour or acid and a shallow stream or trickle runs through it. The main criterion

of a marsh garden is to keep it moist and in a swampy state all throughout. The site should be low-

lying where the surface drainage water will collect naturally.

Site selection :

A pond is not an essential feature of any bog garden, but, if there is any adjacent pond, the

overflow water can be used to keep the marsh garden moist.

A site having a sub-soil of sticky clay is ideally suitable for marsh garden as only a trickle of

water will keep this wet. But, if the soil is light in nature, certain amount of digging will be

needed before establishing a marsh garden.

Layout of bog garden:

The whole area intended to be developed into a marsh garden is dug up to a depth of 60 cm.

and a thin layer of clay, 10-12 cm deep, is placed at the bottom to form the base of the marsh

garden.

Then a 12 cm layer of rubble or large stones are placed over this to ensure that the water in

the marsh does not become stagnant.

The rest of the hollow is filled with a compost of garden loam and leaf-mould in the

proportion 1: 1 and the level made up with the surrounding land.

A marsh garden should never exceed a depth of 60 cm. although its spread will depend upon

the available area and personal choice.

A marsh garden should never suffer from drought and be kept sufficiently moist by a trickle

of water at the same time avoiding stagnation.

All parts of the marsh garden is made accessible by laying paths of rough stones or bricks,

winding round the marsh and putting stepping-stones over them. It must be noted that all

marsh plants need water, but in varying degrees.

Accordingly, marsh plants can be categorized into three broad groups.

1. In the first group belong plants which over 5-10 cm of standing water and are termed as

“Swamp dwellers”.

2. In the second category are placed the plants which live on or a little above the waterline, with

their roots standing in water-logged soil.

3. In the third group are placed those plants which grow above the saturated soil, but near

enough to send their roots in search of water.

A marsh garden can accommodate any moisture-loving plant, those which are found commonly

growing on the banks of streams or ponds. Some of the plants which can stand in 12-15 cm. of water

are also included in a marsh garden. In some pockets of the marsh even plants growing in shallow

water can be accommodated.

The plants suitable for bog garden are :

1. Arrowhead - Sagittaria sagittifolia , Bog Lily - Crinum americanum

Bull Rush - Scirpus spp. Cat tails - Typha spp.

Sweet flag - Acorus calamus, Calamus var. variegates,

2. Alocasia, Arundinaria (Bamboo), Arundo donax , Fern, Double Marsh Marigold, Cypripedium

spectable, Day-Lily, Hosta sp., Plantain-Lily;

3. trees such as Acacia farnesia, Barringtonia and Salix can be grown in the background.

Avenue planting

An avenue is a wide straight road, especially one with trees on either side. The landscaping of the

national and state highways with trees is an important aspect of beautifying and protecting the

environment.

The objectives of landscaping highways and roadsides are:

Highway design must satisfy the requirements of aesthetic considerations along with utility

and safety. Highway design should harmonize with the natural topography.

Existing trees and lesser vegetation should be conserved. Safety considerations dictate

roadside development that will not be monotonous but also will not disturb the attention of

drivers.

The main purpose of roadside trees is to provide shade along with fruits and flowers.

The planting of roadside trees started during the time of Emperor Asoka. The Mughals also

planted roadside with mixture of trees as Pipal, Banyan.

Landscaping of a highway mean planting of trees and include all other measures. which help

enhance the beauty and fits it into the natural landscape of the area. A highway must look

aesthetic, and should not disturb the ecological aspect of the area too much.

Points to be considered while planting avenue:

1. Planting of trees on highways is necessary not only for the purpose of beautification but also for

utility and necessity.

2. The roadside trees on the national highways should provide shade and have some economic value.

3. The highway trees should never be planted in mixed avenues.

4. If a single species is planted in a pure avenue for miles together this looks more beautiful and gives a

wavy appearance of the skyline.

5. The trees should be planted 12 meters apart in the row and atleast 5-6 meters away from the edge of

the road.

6. In wide roads of 30 meters or more, double rows of trees should be planted with an in

between space of 10-12 meters. The inner row may be of flowering trees.

7. The choice of trees for a particular locality depends on soil, sub-soil, water, climate including

rainfall, etc.

8. Mixed plantation, which consists of planting different varieties of trees in a mixed avenue as against

the planting of or single species can be adopted.

9. This planting avoid monotony and enhance the aesthetic view for a longer time of the year.

10. Sometimes group planting can also be adopted. A group of 3-4 trees or more are planted at specified

intervals instead of planting in avenues.

Trees recommended for avenue planting in towns:

Ornamental Shade Trees: Anthocephalus cadamba, Ficus infectoria, Melia azadirachta , Polyalthia

longifolia, Putranjiva roxburghii, Swietenia mahagoni, Tamarindus indica.

Flowering Trees: Bauhinia purpurea, B. variegata, Cassia fistula, C. javanica, C. marginata, C.

nodosa, Gliricidia maculate, Jacaranda mimosaefolia, Lagerstroemia flos-reginae, Peltophorum

ferrugineum, Poinciana (Delonix) regia, Saraca indica, and Spathodea campanulata

Children garden

The need for a separate garden, exclusively for children, is increasingly felt nowadays because large

number of families lives in small flats. These gardens are specifically planned and adopted to afford

the maximum of fun safety and enjoyment for children of all ages.

Several apparatus like swings, teeters, slides, climbing ropes, poles and ladders, horizontal ladders,

trapezes, travelling rings, horizontal bars of varying heights, giant strides, jungle gyms, merry-go-

rounds, sand boxes etc… are recommended for the garden.

The playground apparatus has to provide an opportunity for the children to do the kind of things they

have done from time immemorial in a more natural environment than the modern town or city can

provide.

These apparatus should be placed in the largest possible open space loosely organized games of many

games of many kinds require open spaces. While the open area may be bordered by trees or shrubs,

the actual play area should be free of plantation of any kind. a thick beet of large shady trees should

be planted with medium sized flowering trees for beauty.

A flower parade can be created along the periphery. Eucalyptus, silver oak and Polyanthia

longifolia are suitable for peripheral planting.

Where are electric wires limit the choice of avenue trees, small flowering trees such as

Cochlospemum gossypium, Callistemon lanceolatus, Bauhinia variegata and Tabubia argentia can

be planted Cassia fistula, C. nodosa, Gulmohar, Tabubia argentea, Erythrina indica, Lagerstroemia

flos-reginae and Bauhinia variegata are suitable for planting in the front row of the border planting.

Border planting of shrubbery on large ground or at the back of the school campus serves useful

purpose of filling the gaps between the trees and lawns. Small paths can be planted with shrubs.

Shrub borders around playgrounds are very effective.

The foundation planting can also be undertaken with evergreen dwarf and trailing shrubs.

A playground can be planted with lawn.

A bougainvillea creeps, trained over the wall of the building or Bignonia venusta supported against a

wall looks beautiful. Creepers such as Ficus repen, Ficus puemilla, Campsis radicans (Syn. Tecoma

radicans) can be trained over some stone or brick wall or pillar.

A bird bath provided amidst the trees will be educative to the students

Children enjoy quiet games of different kinds and especially making things with there hands.

For quiet games, shaded places with trees will be preferred.

A heap of sand is irresistibly attractive to children. Washed silver sand is the best play material.

Making tree houses with low spreading plants will add to the interest of the garden.

Many children like to experiment with seeds. Some of the quick growing vegetables and flowers like

coriander, radish, lettuce, spinach, marry gold, nasturtium, candytuft and alyssum are easily grown

and are most likely to satisfy the children.

Sometimes, the presence of small children will lead to a curtailment of garden features such as ponds

which might prove dangerous. Poisonous and thorny plants are also to be avoided.

Dry wall Garden (Retaining walls)

Dry wall garden refers to the gardens planted with different plants laid on a wall or walls. Plants

growing in the crevices of the stones and hanging down the face of a dry wall look beautiful and are

becoming a common feature of the English gardens. In India, a dry wall is not very common in

garden, sometime due to scarcity of space, although this is a very interesting feature of a landscape

garden. If space permits, it may be possible to convert a portion of the concrete wall or garage wall

into dry wall. The dry walls are generally retention walls, with only one surface available

for gardening or planting while the other side is supported against the vertical or near vertical face of

two different levels of landscape. A dry wall can also be constructed as a column.

References

1. Bose, T.K., D. Mukherjee,1977.Gardening in India

2. Randhawa, G.S. and A. Mukhopadhyaya, 1986. Floriculture in India

3. Bhattacharjee, 2004. Landscape Gardening and Design with plants.

4. Principles of Landscape Gardening, AgriMoon.Com

Prepared by- Rashmi Pandey, DHRTC, Garhakota

Topic no. 18 : Lawn types, establishment and maintenance

A lawn can be defined as the green carpet for a landscape or a lawn is a ground cover with

perennial fine grass which persists under continuous close mowing and requires proper

maintenance practice.

It is an element in the design and provides a pleasant foil for setting off all other landscape

elements like trees, shrubs, vines, building etc., so that unity is apparent. It is the centre of

social life.

Importance of lawn in landscaping:

It is an important feature for any type of garden.

Lawn gives greater breadth and dignity to a place.

In a home garden a lawn improves the appearance of the house, enhances its beauty and

increases conveniences and usefulness.

The lawn provides a perfect setting for a flower bed, a border, a shrubbery, specimen tree

or a shrub. Besides, the material value, a lawn has its spiritual value too.

A lawn is the source of charm and pride and reduces tension of the mind after a day’s hard

work in the materialistic world and is more restful to the eye.

The common grass species for lawn based on climatic requirements are classified as below:

(a) Cool season grasses

1 Alkali grass Puccinnellia distans 2 Annual bluegrass Poa annua

3 Canada bluegrass Poa compressa

4 Chewing fescue / creeping red fescue Fescuta rubra

5 Creeping bentgrass Agrostis palustris 6 Colonial bentgrass Agrostis tenuis

7 Crested wheatgrass Agropyron cristatum 8 Ryegrass Lolium sp.

9 Kentucky bluegrass Poa pratensis 10 Red top Agrostis alba

11 Timothy Phleum pratense 12 Velvet bentgrass Agrostis canina

(b) Warm season grasses

1 Bahia grass Paspalum notatum 2 Beach grasses Ammophila sp.

3 Bermuda grass Cynodon dactylon 4 Buffalo grass Buchloe dactyloides

5 Carpet grass Axonopus affinis 6 Centipede grass Eremochloa ophiuroides

7 Grama grass Bouteloua spp. 8 Japanese lawn grass Zoysia japonica

9 Manila grass Zoysia matrella 10 Orchard grass Dactylis glomerata

11 Rhodes grass Chloris gayana 12 Smooth brome grass Bromus inermis

The site:

A few points should be kept in mind before selecting a site.

Soil

• In India, the common lawn grass, Cynodon dactylon (Doob), is very hardy and can be grown in

any type of soil. But to obtain a most luxuriant lawn, it is desirable to have a fertile, loamy soil

containing enough humus.

• The soil should retain enough moisture and at the same time the drainage should also be

adequate.

• The ideal pH range is 5.5 to 6.0. If the pH is very low, about half a kilogram of chalk or

grounded limestone should be added per square metre area on a sandy soil or a similar quantity of

slaked lime should be added to clayey loam soil. In an alkaline soil, gypsum should be added at

the same rate.

• At least a depth of 25-30 cm of good soil is required for obtaining a good lawn.

Drainage

• Grasses are shallow-rooted herbs and therefore, no deep drainage is necessary, but no water

should stagnate in the rooting zone.

• In clayey soils, some kind of drainage must be provided. This may be done by drainage pipes or

by putting a layer of broken pieces of bricks and gravel 90 cm below the surface.

• Ordinary drainage work can be carried out in conjunction with grading or leveling.

Digging

• Rough surface leveling by eye estimation should be done prior to digging. If during rough

leveling a lot of shifting and filling of soil is necessitated, the surface soil should first be taken out

and kept separately, which should be laid on the top after final leveling.

• After rough leveling is completed the digging work should be taken up. Thorough preparation of

the ground is most essential in the success of a lawn.

• At each stage of digging care should be taken to see that the clods of earth are broken and

pulverized thoroughly. During the process of digging, all stones, old masonry, grass roots, etc.

should be removed.

• Special care should be taken to remove the roots of nut grass (Cyperus rotundus).

• In most parts of India, digging is done during the hot months of April and May. After the

trenching is completed the soil is left to dry in the scorching sun for a period of 7-15 days to kill

the weeds or insects and for sterilizing the soil.

• The soil should be turned up subsequently 2-3 times at weekly intervals, each time the clods of

earth, if any, are broken and roots of weeds removed.

Manuring and grading

• After the digging is over, the soil is to be manured and graded (leveled).

• FYM or old stable manure is used for this purpose.

• The manure is sieved finely and spread over the surface at the rate of 500 kg per 100 square

metres of soil. This is then worked up in the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm.

• The next step will be to settle the soil thoroughly. In heavy rainfall areas, the work is done by the

pouring rains. In other areas, the prepared soil is watered heavily and check the run-off, bunds

should be put up all along the periphery. The accumulation of water in pools will show the area of

depression which should be smoothened by shifting soil from one place to another. The flooding

should be repeated 2 or 3 times and between each watering the sprouted weeds should be

removed.

• The final leveling is done with the help of leveling pegs, and spirit level. The soil is then lightly

irrigated and the levels rechecked when the soil is sufficiently dried up.

• It is always advisable to keep the level of the lawn 5 cm below the levels of paths and drives, the

margins along the paths are raised by gradual slope of 15-20 cm, to form a turf edge of 3-4 cm

higher. This method will help keep the paths dry when the lawn is flooded with water.

• It is not always necessary to have a perfectly leveled lawn. Lawns can be laid in undulated land

also and such lawns look very beautiful. But there should not be any depression as the water will

collect and kill the doob grass. Moreover, the slopes and mounds in a lawn should be gradual and

artistic, simulating the nature.

Selection of grass

• The most suitable grass for most parts of India is the doob grass or Bermuda grass (Cynodon

dactylon). The grass thrives well under hot, sunny weather. This grass will not grow under shade.

In Europe and America many grasses are used for the lawn, some of which may suit for our hill

stations.

• Poa spp. (Poa annua, P. pratensis) is of a very fine texture and gives a soft carpet-like feeling

when laid as lawn. The colour is blue-green. This is suitable for higher altitudes with cooler

climatic conditions.

Method of planting

If irrigation facilities exist, a lawn can be laid out any time during the year. Under Indian climatic

conditions it is better to sow after one or two monsoon showers, while the grass root is planted at

the beginning of the monsoon.

The different methods for starting a lawn are by

(a) seed sowing (b) dibbling (c) turfing, and (d) turf-plastering.

(a) From seed: If grass-cuttings or roots are not easily available, one should go for the seeds. It is

important to secure good quality seeds free from weed seeds. Doob grass seed is very light and

fine and proper care should be taken during sowing. Prior to sowing, the surface when relatively

dried up, is scratched to a depth of 2.5 cm with the help of a garden rake. The total area should

then be divided into equal plots of 200 to 300 square meters to ensure even sowing of seeds. The

sowing should be preferably undertaken on a windless day. The seed is divided at the rate of 500 g

per 200 square meters and mixed with double the quantity of finely sieved soil and broadcast by

hand.

After sowing is completed the rake is drawn lightly twice in opposite directions to mix up the

seed. The ground should then be rolled with a very light roller. It will be advisable to cover the

seeds with a thin layer of finely sieved soil. The plot should be watered at regular intervals with a

water can having a fine hose. Watering can be done with a hosepipe with a fine hose. Sometimes,

ants carry away the seeds and to prevent this soil should be treated with an acaricide (Lindane,

Chlorpyriphos, Heptachlor, etc.). The seed germinate in about 3 to 5 weeks from sowing. When

the grass is about 5 cm tall it is clipped with a pair of garden shears. Initially the lawn mower is

not used as this will uproot the grass. If the germination is patchy, re-sowing will be needed to

cover such areas.

(b) Dibbling: After the land is ready, well-matured both unrooted and rooted doob grass cutting is

obtained from a close-cut lawn or nursery or from a lawn-scraping. The roots or grass thus

obtained are dibbled (planted) in the ground when it is slightly moist at 7-10 cm apart. The soil is

kept moist by frequent watering till the grass sprouts. Roots of doob grass sprout easily and the

cuttings or off-shoots root readily under moist condition and within 5-7 weeks the grass will be

ready for first cutting. By this method a lawn will be ready in about four months.

(c) Turfing: The quickest method of developing a lawn is by turfing, but the cost is prohibitive.

Turf is a piece of earth of about 5 cm thickness with grass thickly grown over it. The pieces may

be of small squares or in rolls small width (30 cm or so). The turf must be free from weed and

consist of the required lawn grass. These should be laid closely to each other in a bonded alternate

pattern, like bricks in a wall, in the already prepared ground. Any unevenness in thickness can be

corrected by under packing or removing some of the soil before putting in position. Along the

joints sandy soil should be filled as packing. Bone-meal is dusted in the prepared ground a few

days prior to turfing. The turf thus laid is made firm by a wooden beater made out of heavy block

of wood and fitted with a handle. The grass is immediately watered copiously. By this method a

lawn will be ready for use in a very short time.

(d) Turf plastering: A paste is prepared by mixing garden soil, fresh cow dung and water. Bits of

chopped-up fresh roots and stem or rhizomes of doob grass are mixed with this paste and the paste

is spread evenly on the surface of the prepared ground after moistening the soil. The paste is then

covered by spreading 2 cm of dry soil and watered at regular intervals. This method is not very

suitable especially in a dry and variable climate.

Maintenance of lawn

Having raised a lawn by one of the methods described above, the question of maintenance comes

next. If the lawn is not properly maintained, it will become useless within no time. The various

aspects of maintenance are discussed below.

(a) Weeding: One of the main aspects of maintenance is the control of weeds. Without close

attention or care a time will come when weeds will overcome the lawn grass, the soil will become

sick. Weed is common in both new and old lawns. Therefore, as soon as a lawn is established

weeding should start and continue at regular intervals or whenever the weeds come out. The

frequency of weeding obviously will be more during the rains than in the colder months. The nut

grass (Cyperus rotundus) is the most difficult weed to eradicate, because of its deep root system.

This should be removed with the roots as deep as possible with a long narrow-bladed (1-1.5 cm)

Khurpi. All weeds should be removed with the roots and these should never be allowed to seed.

(b) Rolling, mowing and sweeping: The object of rolling is to help the grass anchor itself

securely and also to keep the surface leveled. Rolling should be avoided when the soil is wet.

Mowing is another important operation. The first thing is to obtain a good machine, which will cut

evenly at a correct height. The frequency of mowing is determined by the amount of growth and

will vary from season to season. But grass should not be allowed to grow more than 5-6 cm in

length during any season. Sweeping the lawn thoroughly after each mowing is essential to clean

the cut grasses, which might have fallen from the mower box. Sweeping is also done every

morning to clean the fallen leaves and other debris. Sweeping may have to be repeated two or

three times in a day during the season when the deciduous trees shed their leaves.

(c) Irrigation: Doob grass is shallow-rooted and, therefore, frequent light irrigation is better than

copious flooding after long intervals. Here again some people prefer flooding at long intervals as

this saves labour. Labour as well as water can be saved to aconsiderable extent if sprinkler

irrigation is used. The frequency of irrigation varies with the climate. Stagnation of water should

not be allowed as it may kill the grass.

(d) Scraping and raking: Continuous rolling, treading, and mowing may result in the formation

of a hard crust and the lower part of the lawn may get matted and woody. For Mowing such

lawns, the grass is scraped at the ground level with the help of a khurpi in the months of April and

May. Scraping is followed by raking to break the crust. Where the condition of the lawn is good,

hard and thorough raking is done both ways to loosen the old runners and to aerate the soil. Then

the mower blade is lowered and the grass mowed close to the ground.

(e) Top dressing with compost and fertilizer

After scraping or raking, a compost consisting of good garden soil, coarse sand, and leaf-mould in

the proportion of 1:2:1 (in sandy soil the proportion of sand should be reduced or eliminated

altogether) is spread over the lawn to a depth of 3-5 cm. To cover to such a depth a 100 kg of

compost per 100 square meters will be needed. Bone meal is also applied at the rate of 1 kg per 10

square meters. The same compost is used as top dressing again during September to October.

From October to April, ammonium sulphate is applied once every month at the rate of 1 kg per 50

square meters area followed by watering. Application of fermented compost in liquid form is also

very beneficial for lawns. This is prepared by fermenting 20 kg of compost in 100 litres of water

for a few days. During fermentation, ammonium sulphate and super phosphate at the rate of 1 kg

and 2 kg are added to this mixture. The concentrated mixture is strained through gunny cloth and

diluted to tea colour and added to the lawn with water cans or by siphoning. After the application,

the lawn is soaked with water. This can be applied twice a year (October and May-June). Raw

cow dung may be fermented and used in the same way.

Problems in lawns

Frost-injury: In cold regions, the grass is injured due to frost. This can be avoided to a great

extent if the grass is sprayed with water every evening and in the early morning after frost.

Thatching: Formation of straw like layers of dead stems, leaves and roots of grass is called

thatching. It can be controlled by manual removal.

Yellowing: It is more prevalent in wet weather. It is controlled by drenching with copper

oxychloride / Dithane M-45 @ 3g/litre or Bavistin 1g/litre

Earthworms: Affect lawn by depositing their excreta. Cause a circular ring of thin coloured or

dead grass. They are controlled by drenching soil with Bavistin @ 1g/lit or Dithane M 45 @

3g/lit. Oilcakes of neem / Pongamia @ 500g/10 m2 may be applied before rainy season.

Termites: They are controlled by the application of Phoret / Thimet.

REFERENCES

• Bose TK, Maiti RG, Dhua RS and Das P. 1999. Floriculture and Landscaping. Naya Prokash.

• Nambisan KMP.1992. Design Elements of Landscape Gardening. Oxford & IBH.

• Randhawa GS and Mukhopadhyay A. 1986. Floriculture in India. Allied Publ.

• Trivedi, P.P.1983. Home Gardening. Statesman Press. New Delhi. India.

Prepared by- Rashmi Pandey, DHRTC, Garhakota

Topic No. 19 &20 Importance of garden adornments viz. Floral clock, bird bath, statue,

sculptures, lanterns, water basins, garden benches etc.

Garden adornments: There are several garden adornments and accessories such as bird bath, sun

clock, fountains, garden seats, ornamental posts, pillars, etc., which make the garden more

enjoyable.

1. Floral clocks: These are huge clocks generally operated by electricity, having huge hands for

showing the seconds, minutes and hours. The machinery of the clock is concealed in an

underground chamber with only the hands showing above the ground against a dial of carpet

bedding plants or flowerbeds. Instead of live plants, the dial can be decorated with various

coloured pebbles.

2. Bird bath:

It is a large, bow-shaped container generally made of concrete, fixed over a pillar or column,

which is about 1m tall. Water is stored in the bowl for the birds to come and drink or bath in it.

Bird baths may be constructed at the quiet corner of the garden.

3. Statues :

Statues of animate or inanimate objects carved out of stone or made of bronze with good artistic

value and taste are placed for beautification and to improve the look of a garden. Beautiful

marble figures of artistic value are placed in suitable places to enhance the charm of the garden.

Statues may be of figures of angels, ladies or children.

The figures should be of a decorative character.

When the back view of the figure is of no great interest, it may be placed at the

background of plantings, trellis or walls.

Modern sculpture though very much alive, is not yet generally understood and does not

appeal to the average garden lover.

Towers and sculptures are sometimes placed at the edge of water so that

they form reflections in the water.

Site for statues:

Statues can be placed in the midst of a running stream of water, along the border of a

big lawn, at the cross sections of two roads, at the end of a road or near the doorway of

the house.

4. Lanterns:

Stone , iron and bronze lanterns were used to decorate Buddhist temples. They became the

thing of beauty in gardens also. The metal lanterns are usually placed close to the house, set

on a rock or hung from the eaves. Standard lanterns or legged lanterns or stone lanterns are

used in an informal manner to decorate the garden. The Japanese garden almost always has

its stone lanterns.

The idea of stone lantern originated with the tea-garden and at one time served to illuminate

the garden, but now has a purely decorative value. Lanterns are generally carved in stone.

The column of the lantern may be cylindrical or square. The fire box is carved in an

ornamental manner. Japanese stone lanterns can either be broad - roofed or narrow -roofed.

Broad-roofed lanterns are commonly called "Snow view." or "Yukimi Lanterns" because it

gives a charming effect to the landscape when it is snow bound. These types of lanterns are

made of white stone or white marble and are suitable for areas having snowfall.

The narrow - roofed lanterns are called "Kasuga lanterns" have a six-facet fire box and

derived their name from the Kasuga temple in Japan where these are found in abundance.

Site for lanterns:

Placement of the stone lanterns is done in a naturalistic way in different pockets and

situations.

To increase the feeling of depth, lanterns may be slightly masked by plants, so that at

night light is partially screened, resulting in a glimmering effect.

Lanterns look natural by the side of the streams, torrents and pools in which the banks are

laden with pieces of stone.

They also find place in the wild garden, woodland garden, behind an arched stone bridge, in

a temple garden, in a tea garden, in a stone or rock garden, in an aquatic garden or a palace

garden.

Stone lanterns should never be connected with electric wires.

Decorative metal lanterns can be fixed over metallic ornamental columns or pillars.

The lanterns should be positioned in suitable places near the house or near a stream or pool.

5. Water Basins :

The water-basins are fitted near a house meant for the guests to rinse their mouth and wash

the hands. But in present days these basins have become nothing but ornamental features. A

small house may have a basin one meter tall; whereas in front of a large house the basin becomes

as tall as 2 to 2.5 m and thus making useless as a place of washing, but remains there as an

ornamental feature. The basins are generally fitted with an ornamental lid.

The water-basin comes in various shapes, the most common ones are in the shape of an

urn. But square-star shaped, cylindrical, stone-bottle shaped, and bowl shaped basins are also

quite common. A screen-fence is provided near the water-basin to screen off unwelcome sight.

Stones are placed at the base of the water-basin to arrest the splash of water which otherwise may

wet the space below the veranda.

Stone water-basins used for washing hands are an important feature of the Japanese garden

which have practical as well as artistic purposes

In the tea-garden, the basin is kept low so that it can be used in a kneeling position, while in

an ordinary garden it is made so that it can be used in a standing posture.

The basin is made by hollowing a single natural stone or by converting stone into a basin

shape. There are several varieties, which can be arranged among the group of stones.

Stone basins should have a practical link between the site and the building.

They are also kept on a veranda or porch or at strategic points along a garden path.

The water in the basin can be replenished every day by carrying water to it in a pail or it may

be filled by water dripping into a bamboo spout set over the basin.

6. Garden benches: The garden-seats should not look out of place. They should be comfortable,

durable and artistic looking. Seats made out of wooden or fabric material are comfortable to sit

compared to those built in stone or iron. The wood used is to be treated with a preservative and

painted with moisture proof chemicals. Iron or stone or concrete seats get easily heated in the

summer months and become cool in the winter months, thus making them uncomfortable to sit.

Concrete or stone seats are preferable in public parks as they are durable in nature.

7. Ornamental tubs, urns and vases: The tub or the vase can be made of timber or preferably

of brick, concrete or carved out of stone, which can be kept permanently or temporarily. These

can be positioned over ornamental pillars, at the end of paved paths, near the gate or near the

staircase of the main entrance. Ornamental urns made of metal with carvings outside look

beautiful in the terrace, near the staircase or even inside the house.

8. Sun dials: It can be used as a focal point in a garden, can form a center piece of a formal

flower bed, and can be placed in the centre or at the end of the lawn or at the junction or

termination of path. It is also a good feature in a sunken-garden. The sundial should be positioned

in a place where the shadow from a tree or building does not fall for a long duration.

References

• Bose TK, Maiti RG, Dhua RS and Das P. 1999. Floriculture and Landscaping. Naya

Prokash.

• Nambisan KMP.1992. Design Elements of Landscape Gardening. Oxford & IBH.

• Randhawa GS and Mukhopadhyay A. 1986. Floriculture in India. Allied Publ.

• Trivedi, P.P.1983. Home Gardening. Statesman Press. New Delhi. India.

• Sabina GT and Peter KV. 2008. Ornamental Plants for Gardens. New India Publ. Agency.

• Woodrow MG.1999. Gardening in India. Biotech Books.

• Sabina GT and Peter KV. 2008. Ornamental Plants for Gardens. New India Publ. Agency.