Lenzinger Berichte - 90 | 2012

112
www.lenzing.com Lenzinger Berichte 90 | 2012 Scientific reports on wood, pulp and regenerated cellulose

Transcript of Lenzinger Berichte - 90 | 2012

www.lenzing.com

Lenzinger Berichte90 | 2012Scientific reports on wood, pulp and regenerated cellulose

LENZINGER BERICHTE

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AU-ISSN 0024-0907G0D1#,:$.(DH(I$%F#%3(5JKLMN(I$%F#%3/(50,&)#2G:+%$(OKP(QMQR(QNSTN

Editorial Board

Ao. Univ. Prof. Dr. Thomas Bechtold( U%#V$),#&;&(W%%,D)0"9/(W%,&#&0&$(+=(X$Y&#1$(Z:$6#,&)H(2%.(X$Y&#1$(G:H,#",/(( (( 50,&)#2

DDr. Haio Harms( [$1:$#6(E#D)$,(J6DC/(J$)62%H

Univ. Prof. Dr. Paul Kosma( U%#V$),#&H(+=(>2&0)21(\$,+0)"$,(2%.(5**1#$.(I#=$(!"#$%"$,/(( (B$*2)&6$%&(+=(Z:$6#,&)H/(]#$%%2/(50,&)#2

Univ. Prof. Dr. Herbert Sixta( 521&+(U%#V$),#&H/(B$*2)&6$%&(+=(E+)$,&(G)+.0"&,(X$":%+1+3H/(8,*++/(( E#%12%.

Univ. Prof. Dr. Alfred Teischinger( U%#V$),#&H(+=(>2&0)21(\$,+0)"$,(2%.(5**1#$.(I#=$(!"#$%"$,/(B$*2)&6$%&(( (+=(^2&$)#21(!"#$%"$,(2%.(G)+"$,,(8%3#%$$)#%3/(W%,&#&0&$(+=(_++.(!"#$%"$( (2%.(X$":%+1+3H/(]#$%%2/(50,&)#2

The authors assume full responsibility for the contents.

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Additional copies can be obtained by contacting the following address:

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SUSTAINABLE CELLULOSICS S( A Vision of the World of Cellulosic Fibers in 2020 Dieter Eichinger

8 Greening of the Denim Supply Chain Michael Kininmonth

SM( Major changes of the human skin microbiota associated with wearing of Polyester-based sports textiles next to the skin Alexandra Pipal-Humenberger, Anna Moussavi and Bernhard Redl

( G\fX8ZXWf>(5>B(Zf^Ef\X( RS( !"#$%"&'()*($"+,-$"%'./"'#.-'#(')"#0.1-02"304$"-$.0-50#)6 Anemone Tautenhahn

24 Flame Protection with Comfort from Lenzing Fibers Jim Taylor and Marina Crnoja-Cosic

PS( TENCEL® - Improved performance for workwear Alexandra Steger, Claus Metzig, Marina Crnoja-Cosic and Jim Taylor

PQ( Functional Viscose Fibre for Cold Protective Clothing Ingo Bernt and Jahn Beringer

KP( New Antimicrobial Cellulose Fibres for Work Wear for the Food Processing Industry Edith Claßen, Kirsten Stauche and Ina Sigmund

gS( Spun–Dyed High–Visibility Man–Made Cellulosics Ksenija Varga, Gert Kroner and Peter Wessely

54 Lenzing Modal® Loft in towels: Functional ECO-solution for the institutional towel market Denitza Ivanoff, Mohammad Abu-Rous, Clemens Bisjak and Susanne Jary

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APPLICATIONS BESIDES TEXTILES 58 TENCEL® Carbon Precursor Gisela Goldhalm

64 7'()*#."89":"./$";1.1-$"*;"/'</"=$-;*-40#)$"&'()*($"+204$#.("0#5"./$'-".$>.'2$" applications Bernhard Müller, Martin Gebert-Germ and Axel Russler

72 Steering of Dispersibility of Spunlaced Nonwovens with Fibre Properties and Spunlacing Parameters Roland Scholz and Ina Sigmund

( Z8IIUIf!8(5>B(Z8IIUIf!8(B8\W]5XW]8!( 76 Effects of pre-treatment and dissolution conditions for improved solution and processing properties of cellulose in ionic liquids Birgit Kosan, Katrin Schwikal and Frank Meister

85 ?.156"0,*1."./$"$;+)'$#)6"*;"$(.$-'+)0.'*#"*;")$2212*($"1#5$-"/*4*<$#$*1(")*#5'.'*#@" dependence on the chain length and solvent Matilde C.V. Nagel and Thomas Heinze

dP( Recent Developments in Structure Design of 3-O-Ethers of Cellulose Yunhui Wang, Andreas Koschella and Thomas Heinze

SNP( Carbohydrate degradation reactions during alkaline steeping of dissolving " =12=""A"B#31$#)$"*;"0'-"$>)21('*# Danuta Joanna Mozdyniewicz and Herbert Sixta

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References

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Figure 12. Temperatur regulation in bed – comparison

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Michael Kininmonth

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Abstract

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References

k1l( >==CUtt\\\Y[;==;898[Y[;@t(/mB87(0..-2k0l( d&D;QFD(]F6O7=('7M97\(;<(=>7(?789@(F8P(m7F8N-\7F6( %8PBN=697Ne( mBN=XA=ED7( @F6O7=( 67N7F6[>( 67C;6=(/]FE(0..-2

kol( >==CUtt\\\Y:6778E;B6Y[;@tQ;PEt[D;=>98:tc7F8Nt=9CNtQBEX>7@CXc7F8NkJl( !9(A>78(F8P(]F6=98(TY(KF=7DI(!9<7([E[D7(FNN7NN-@78=(;<(@F8X@FP7([7DDBD;N7(_Q67NI(!78G98:76()769[>-=7(33(/0.1.2(1X5-k5l( H([;@C67>78N9M7([;@C78P9B@(FQ;B=(=>7(>9N=;6EI([>7@9N=6E(F8P(FCCD9[F=9;8(;<(98P9:;(4()DB*;887[=9;8(/*;@CF8E()6;[>B67(]FE(0.112kWl( H67( #F=B6FD( *;D;6F8=N( &;;P( <;6(R;B6( +7FD=>r()69F8(&D;M76I(?B8P77(,7`=9D7N(!9@9=7PI(,7`=9D7(*>7-@9N=(F8P(*;D;69N=(HC69D(1--5(#;DY(0pI(#;YJkpl( L;6DP( )F8O( />==CUttPF=FY\;6DPQF8OY;6:t98P9[F-=;6tH&Y!#?YH&'%Y$A2k3l( "[;7<_[978[E(F8FDEN9N(<;6(QDB7(c7F8N(LY(A[>6;==I(K( AFD98:( ]7DD9F8P( %8=768F=9;8FD( M;D( W( CF:7( p.Xpo(/0...2k-l( ,>7( P7M7D;C@78=( ;<( 98P9:;( 67PB[=9;8( @7=>;PN(F8P( C67X67PB[7P( 98P9:;( C6;PB[=N( '9[>F6P( A( )DF[O-

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<F[=B698:XC6;[7NNt:0X\F=76D7NNXP789@X\FN>98:X@F-[>987X<6;@Xc7F8;D;:9Ft(/mBDE(0.112k11l(>==CUtt\\\Y<F96=6FP7[78=76YN7tN9=7NtP7<FBD=t_D7Ntm"H#A'HKKh',x"#&xD;\x1YCP<(/mBDE(0.112k10l(>==CUtt79@Yc7F8;D;:9FY[;@t(/mBDE(0.112

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13

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Alexandra Pipal-Humenberger, Anna Moussavi and Bernhard Redl

OEPE?E8<(8@(58J>:BJ69()E8J8=KQ()E8:><A>9(5R%Q(%<<96E<(S.Q(TL3.0.(%<<?F9B:DQ(TB?A9E6Q"LC6EJU()>9<;69GV'>GJWELC>GV6:V6A,;E?(MBFJE:6AE8<(H6?(M9>?><A>G(GB9E<=(A;>(X.A;(56<456G>(YEF>9(*8<@>9><:>(0.11Q(O89<FE9<Q(TB?A9E6V

Abstract

+BC6<(?DE<(;69F8B9?(BM(A8(8<>(CEJJE8<(F6:A>9E6(M>9(:C2(:8<A6E<E<=(C89>(A;6<(ZP>(;B<G9>G?(8@(GE@@>9><A(?M>:E>?V(R<G>9(:>9A6E<(:8<GEAE8<?(/>V=V(><;6<:>G(?H>6A(M98GB:AE8<2(6<G(E<(6??8:E6AE8<(HEA;(A>NAEJ>?(A;>?>(;E=;(J>P>J?(8@(F6:-A>9E6(:6<(:6B?>(M98FJ>C?(JED>(8G8B9(=><>96AE8<Q(GE?:8J896AE8<(6<G(J8??(8@(M>9@89C6<:>(8@(A;>(A>NAEJ>?V([E<:>(?8C>(A>NAEJ>?Q(>?M>:E6JJK(?M89A?L(6<G(B<G>9H>69Q(69>(E<(M;K?E:6J(:8<A6:A(HEA;(A;>(?DE<Q(EA(:6<(F>(?M>:BJ6A>G(A;6A(A;>K(CE=;A(GE9>:AJK(E<\B><:>(A;>(:8CM8?EAE8<(8@(A;>(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6V(Y89(A;E?(MB9M8?>(H>(M>9@89C>G(H>69E<=LA9E6J?(B?E<=(?M89A?(A>NAEJ>?(C6G>(8@(1..](M8JK>?A>9V(,;>(:8CM8?EAE8<(8@(A;>(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6(F>@89>(6<G(6@A>9(A;>(H>69E<=(A9E6J?(H6?(6<6JK^>G(FK(B?E<=(6(:BJAB9>LE<G>M><G><A(C>A;8G(F6?>G(8<(O#T(?>_B><:>(6<6JK?E?(8@(A;>(F6:A>9E6J(C>A6=><8C>(8@(A;>(?DE<V( >̀(@8B<G(A;6A(M8JK>?A>9LF6?>G(A>NAEJ>?(GE9>:AJK(E<\B><:>G(A;>(:8CM8?EAE8<(8@(A;>(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6V(,;>(C8?A(?B9M9E?E<=(9>?BJA(H6?(6(G96?AE:(:;6<=>(E<(A;>(9>J6AE8<?;EM(F>AH>><(&96CLM8?EAEP>(6<G(&96CL<>=6AEP>(F6:A>9E6Q(F>@89>(/-a](&96CLM8?EAEP>?(P>9?B?(a](&96CL<>=6AEP>?2(6<G(6@A>9(/3b](&96CLM8?AEP>?(P>9?B?(bc](&96CL<>=6AE-P>?2(A;>(H>69E<=(A9E6J?V(I9>JECE<69K(>NM>9EC><A?(E<GE:6A>(A;6A(A;E?(>@@>:A(?>>C?(A8(F>(C6A>9E6JLG>M><G><AQ(?E<:>(?B:;(G96?AE:(:;6<=>?(E<(A;>(CE:98FE8A6(H>9>(<8A(@8B<G(E<(H>69E<=(A9E6J?(B?E<=(,"#*"!®LF6?>G(A>NAEJ>?V

Keywords:!"#$%&"!&'(&)*'"+!",)-!./0&'%)/+!#$*1'"&'%+!234536®

Introduction

'>:><A( E<P>?AE=6AE8<?( B?E<=( :BJAB9>LE<G>M><G><A( C>-A;8G?(;6P>(9>P>6J>G(A;>(?DE<(A8(;69F8B9(8<>(8@(A;>(J69-=>?A(;BC6<L6??8:E6A>G(F6:A>9E6J(:8CCB<EAE>?(d1LbeV(TJA-;8B=;(A;>9>(?>>C?(A8(F>(6(:89>(?>A(8@(?M>:EZ:(F6:A>9E6J(A6N6(:8CC8<JK(@8B<G(8<(;BC6<(?DE<Q(6(;E=;(E<A96L(6<G(E<A>9E<GEPEGB6J( P69E6FEJEAK( E<( :8CCB<EAK( :8CM8?EAE8<(H6?( @8B<GV([8C>( @6:A89?( G9EPE<=( A;E?( P69E6FEJEAK(;6P>(F>><(E<P>?AE=6A>G(E<(C89>(G>A6EJV(#8A(?B9M9E?E<=Q(A;>9>(E?(6(=9>6A(GEP>9?EAK(8@(F6:A>9E6(HEA;E<(6<G(F>AH>><(GE?AE<:A(69>6?(8@(A;>(?DE<(daQXeV(,;>?>(69>6?(?;8H(6(F986G(96<=>(8@(GE@@>9><:>?(E<(M+Q(A>CM>96AB9>Q(C8E?AB9>Q(?>FBC(6<G(JEMEG(:8<A><A(6<G(?DE<(?A9B:AB9>?V(,;>9>@89>(A;>(;E=;(P6-9E6FEJEAK(8@(A;>(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6(9>\>:A?(A;>(M;K?E8J8=E:6J(:8<GEAE8<?(8@(A;>(GE@@>9><A(69>6?(d3eV(%<(6GGEAE8<Q(A;>(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6(HEJJ(6J?8(F>(E<\B><:>G(FK(C89>(>NA>9<6J(@6:-A89?V(Y89(>N6CMJ>Q( A;>(:8CCB<EAK(:8CM8?EAE8<(8@( A;>(CE:98FE8A6(8@(;6<G?(E?(?E=<EZ:6<AJK(6@@>:A>G(FK(H6?;E<=(M98:>GB9>?(dceV(T<8A;>9(@6:A89(HEA;(6(;E=;(M8A><AE6J(A8

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Materials and Methods

`"T'%#&(,'%T![I8JK>?A>9( /1..]2(6<G(,"#*"!®( /1..]2(F6?>G(69C(H69C>9?Q( ?ECEJ69( A8( A;6A( B?>G( E<( FED>( ?M89A?Q( H>9>(H89<(@89(S;(M>9(G6K(@89(6(3LG6K(AEC>(M>9E8GV(,;>(C6-A>9E6J(H6?(M9>H6?;>G(FK(b(:K:J>?(F>@89>(A;>(H>69E<=(A>?A?V

[T5I!"(*f!!"*,%f#[H6F?(@98C(?BM>9Z:E6J(?DE<(H>9>(8FA6E<>G(@98C(A;>(P8J69( J>@A( @89>69C(8@( A;9>>(;>6JA;K(?BF7>:A?Q(HEA;(<8(;E?A89K(8@( G>9C6A8J8=E:6J( GE?89G>9?( 89( 8A;>9( :;98<E:(C>GE:6J(GE?89G>9?(6<G(HEA;(<8(:B99><A(?DE<(E<@>:AE8<?V(#8<>(8@(A;>(?BF7>:A?(;6G(9>:>EP>G(6<K(6<AEFE8AE:?(@89(6A( J>6?A( 8<>(C8<A;V( [BF7>:A?( H>9>( E<?A9B:A>G( <8A( A8(H6?;(HEA;(6<KA;E<=(@89(6<(SL;(E<A>9P6J(M9E89(A8(?6CM-

JE<=V([6CMJ>?(H>9>(A6D><(@98C(0(N(0(:C(8@(?DE<Q(@98C(A;>(:><A96J(69>6(8@(A;>(P8J69(J>@A(/\>N892(@89>69CQ(CEG-H6K(F>AH>><(H9E?A(6<G(>JF8HQ(FK(?H6FFE<=(A;>(?DE<(@89(1(CE<(HEA;(6(?A>9EJ>(:8AA8<(?H6F(A;6A(;6G(F>><(?8-

6D>G(E<(?A>9EJ>(.V1X(5(#6*J(HEA;(.V1](,H>><(0.V(,8(CE<ECE?>(?6CMJ>(:98??L:8<A6CE<6AE8<(6(@9>?;(M6E9(8@(?A>9EJ>(=J8P>?(H6?(B?>G(@89(>6:;(E<GEPEGB6J(?6CMJE<=(M98:>??V('>6=><A(:8<A98J?(:8<?E?A>G(8@( ?A>9EJ>(:8AA8<(?H6F?( C8E?A><>G( HEA;( 6( ?8JBAE8<( 8@( ?A>9EJ>( .V1X(5(#6*J(6<G(.V1](,H>><(0.(6<G(MJ6:>G(GE9>:AJK(E<(1VX(C!(CE:98:><A9E@B=>(ABF>?V(

O#T("g,'T*,%f#(Y'f5([h%#([ T̀)[O#T(H6?(>NA96:A>G(B?E<=(A;>(O#>6?K()J88G(6<G(,E??B>(hEA( /iE6=><Q( +EJG><Q( &>9C6<K2V( [E<:>( &96CLM8?EAEP>(F6:A>9E6( 69>(C89>( 9>?E?A6<A( A8( JK?E?( A;6<(&96CL<>=6AEP>(F6:A>9E6Q( A;>(C6<B@6:AB9>9j?(M98A8:8J(@89(=><8CE:(O#T(E?8J6AE8<(@98C(&96CLM8?EAEP>(F6:A>9E6(H6?(@8JJ8H>G(HEA;(C8GEZ:6AE8<?V(,;>(:8AA8<(AEM(8@(>6:;(?H6F(H6?(F98D><(8@@(GE9>:AJK(E<A8(6(1VX(C!(ABF>(A8(H;E:;(1S.(k!(8@(JK?E?(FB@-@>9(;6G(F>><(6GG>GV(,;>(ABF>?(H>9>(:6MM>G(6<G(?;6D><(FK(;6<G(;89E^8<A6JJK(@89(b.(?>:8<G?V(,;>(9>C6E<E<=(?A>M?(H>9>(M>9@89C>G(6?(?B==>?A>G(FK(A;>(C6<B@6:AB9>9V

13[('O#T(T5I!%Y%*T,%f#Q(*!f#%#&(PROCEDURE AND SEQUENCING

I*'(6CMJEZ:6AE8<(H6?(M>9@89C>G(HEA;(M9EC>9?(?M>:E-Z:(@89(:8<?>9P>G(F6:A>9E6J(13[(9O#T(?>_B><:>?V(I*'(M9EC>9?(Y(SU(XlL(T&T&,,,&T,m5,&&*,*T&(L(bl(6<G('(1a.1U(XlL(*&&,&,&,T*TT&T***(L(bl(6CMJEZ>G(6(F6:A>9E6J(13[(9'#T(><:8GE<=(=><>(@96=-

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1S

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Results and Discussion

*f5IT'%[f#(fY(,+"([h%#(5%*'f)%-f,T()"Yf'"(T#O(TY,"'(`"T'%#&(,'%T![(`%,+(I"[L)T["O(,"g,%!"[,6FJ>(1(=EP>?(6<(8P>9PE>H(8@(A;>(F6:A>9E6J(?M>:E>?(6<G(?BFL?M>:E>?(M9>?><A(8<( A;>( ?DE<(F>@89>( 6<G(6@A>9( A;>(H>69E<=( A9E6J?( 8@( 6JJ( M>9?8<?( E<P>?AE=6A>GV( Y89( >6:;(

M>9?8<(-3(F6:A>9E6J(:J8<>?(H>9>(6<6JK^>GV(TJJ(A8=>A;>9(c0(GE@@>9><A(F6:A>9E6J(?M>:E>?(H>9>(EG><AEZ>G(8<(A;>(6<6JK?>G(69>6(/0(N(0(:C2(8@(A;>(@89>69CQ(?BMM89AE<=(A;>(;E=;(GEP>9-?EAK(8@(A;>(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6(6?(G>?:9EF>G(M9>PE8B?JK(dbQaeV(b0(GE@@>9><A(?M>:E>?(H>9>(EG><AEZ>G(8<(A;>(?DE<(F>@89>(A;>(H>69E<=(A9E6JV(I98ME8<EF6:A>9EBC(6:<>?(H6?(@8B<G(A8(F>(

Table 1. Bacterial species present on skin before and after the wearing trials with PES

textiles. Gr+ = Gram-positive bacteria, Gr- = Gram-negative bacteria.

1-

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T( :J8?>9( J88D( A8( A;>( C6789( :;6<=>?( E<GB:>G( FK( A;>(H>69E<=(A9E6J?(9>P>6J>G(A;6A(A;>9>(H6?(6(G96?AE:(:;6<=>(E<(A;>(9>J6AE8<?;EM(F>AH>><(&96CLM8?EAEP>(6<G(&96CL<>=6AEP>(F6:A>9E6(6@A>9(A;>(A9E6J?(/YE=B9>(0(T(6<G()2V()>-@89>(A;>(H>69E<=(A9E6J?(6JC8?A(6JJ(F6:A>9E6(M9>?><A(H>9>(&96CLM8?EAEP>?(/-XVS]2(6<G(A;>(&96CL<>=6AEP>?(H>9>(

;E=;JK(B<G>99>M9>?><A>G(/aV1c]2V(+8H>P>9Q(A;E?(9>J6AE-8<?;EM(H6?(?E=<EZ:6<AJK(:;6<=>G(6@A>9(A;>(H>69E<=(A9E-6J?Q(HEA;(6(?A98<=(E<:9>6?>(8@(&96CL<>=6AEP>?(/b3VS1]2(6<G(6(G>:9>6?>(8@(&96CLM8?EAEP>(?M>:E>?(/3bV1]2V(

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GE>?V(+8H>P>9Q(EA(E?(<8A>H89A;K(A;6A(=98HA;(8@()6:EJ-JB?(?BFAEJE?Q(H;E:;(E?(D<8H<(A8(F>(6<(8G8B9(M98GB:E<=(F6:A>9EBC(d11eQ(H6?(><;6<:>G(6@A>9(A;>(H>69E<=(A9E6JV(%<(6GGEAE8<Q(6J?8(?8C>(M8A><AE6J(M6A;8=><?Q(JED>(hJ>F-?E>JJ6( M<>BC8<E6>( 6<G(+6>C8M;EJB?( E<\B><^6(H>9>(G>A>:A>G(8<(A;>(?DE<(6@A>9(A;>(H>69E<=(A9E6J?V

I'"!%5%#T'm('"[R!,[(Y'f5(`"T'%#&(,'%T![(R[%#&(,"#*"!®-BASED TEXTILES,8( E<P>?AE=6A>Q(H;>A;>9( A;>( E<\B><:>(8<( A;>(?DE<(CE-:98FE8A6( @8B<G( HEA;( I"[LF6?>G( A>NAEJ>?( E?( C6A>9E6JLG>M><G><A( 89( 6(C89>( =><>96J(C>:;6<E?CQ(H>( M>9@89-C>G(A;>(?6C>(H>69E<=( A9E6J?(6?(G>?:9EF>G(6F8P>(HEA;(TENCEL®LF6?>G(A>NAEJ>?V(T?(>PEG><A(@98C(A;>(9>?BJA?(M9>?><A>G(E<(YE=B9>(bQ(<8(G96?AE:(:;6<=>(E<(A;>(9>J6AE8<-?;EM(F>AH>><(&96CLM8?EAEP>(6<G(&96CL<>=6AEP>(F6:A>-9E6(H6?(@8B<G(B?E<=(A;E?(C6A>9E6JV(,;>?>(9>?BJA?(?A98<=JK(?BMM89A( A;>( EG>6( A;6A( GE@@>9><A(C6A>9E6J?( ;6P>(GEP>9?>(>@@>:A?(8<(A;>(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6V(%<(:8<A96?A(A8(I"[Q(,"#-

CEL®(E?(6(C89>(;KG98M;EJE:(C6A>9E6JQ(H;E:;(M98F6FJK(M9>P><A?(6(?E=<EZ:6<A(:;6<:>(8@(A;>(CE:98:JEC6A>(8@(A;>(?DE<Q(H;E:;(CE=;A(8::B9(HEA;(A;>(I"[(C6A>9E6JV

Figure 2. Changes in the relationship between Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria after the wearing trials with

738!&'(&)*'"9!:;!.'<$%'!&='!>'/%)-?!&%)/*"+!@;!/<&'%!&='!>'/%)-?!&%)/*"9

Figure 1. Relative abundance of the most prevalent bac-

terial phyla present on the skin of the persons investigated

ABCD;+!.'<$%'!A8,)-!BCD;!/-E!/<&'%!A738!BCD;!&='!>'/%)-?!

trials.

A B

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((13(4(0.

20

Conclusions

fB9(E<P>?AE=6AE8<?(:J>69JK(G>C8<?A96A>G(A;6A(A;>(GEP>9-?EAK(8@(A;>(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6(:6<(F>(GE9>:AJK(E<\B><:>G(FK(A>NAEJ>?Q(>?M>:E6JJK(FK(A;8?>(H89<(<>NA(A8(A;>(?DE<V(T(G96?AE:(:;6<=>(8@( A;>( 9>J6AE8<?;EM(F>AH>><(&96CLM8?EAEP>(6<G(&96CL<>=6AEP>(F6:A>9E6(H6?(@8B<G(6@A>9(H>69E<=(A9E6J?(HEA;(I"[LF6?>G(A>NAEJ>?V( >̀(:8<:JBG>(A;6A(I"[(@6P8B9?(=98HA;(8@(A;>(C89>(?><?EAEP>(&96CL<>=6AEP>?Q(H;E:;(E?(M98F6FJK(GB>(A8(A>CM8969K(:;6<-

=>?(E<(A;>(CE:98><PE98<C><A(E<GB:>G(FK(A;E?(C6A>9E6JV(,;E?(>@@>:A(?>>C?(A8(F>(?A98<=JK(C6A>9E6JLG>M><G><AQ(?E<:>(<8(9>J>P6<A(:;6<=>(E<(A;>(&96CLM8?EAEP>t&96C(<>=6AEP>(:8CM8?EAE8<(H6?(@8B<G(E<(?DE<(6@A>9(H>69E<=(A9E6J?(HEA;(,"#*"!®(LF6?>G(A>NAEJ>?V

Acknowledgements

,;>(6BA;89?(H8BJG( JED>( A8( A;6<D( A;>(u?A>99>E:;E?:;>(Y89?:;B<=?@v9G>9B<=?=>?>JJ?:;6@A(/YY&2(@89(Z<6<:E6J(?BMM89AV

References

d1e( O>DE8Q(%VQ(+6K6?;EQ(+VQ([6D6C8A8Q(5VQ(hEA6;696Q(5VQ(#E?;ED6H6Q(,VQ([B>C6A?BQ(5VQ()><<8Q(mV( /0..X2(O>A>:AE8<( 8@( M8A><AE6JJK( <8P>J( F6:A>9E6J( :8CM8<><A?(8@(A;>(;BC6<(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6(B?E<=(:BJAB9>LE<G>M><-

G><A( C8J>:BJ69( M98ZJE<=V( 5>G( 5E:98FE8J( XaU10b1L10bSVd0e( &68Q($VQ(,?><=Q(*V+VQ(I>EQ($VQ()J6?>9Q(5VnV(/0..c2(58J>:BJ69(6<6JK?E?(8@(;BC6<(@89>69C(?BM>9Z:E6J(?DE<(F6:A>9E6J( FE8A6V( I98:(#6AJ(T:6G( [:E(R[T( 1.aU0-0cL0-b0Vdbe( &9E:>Q("VTVQ(h8<=Q(+V+VQ('><6BGQ(&VQ(m8B<=Q(TV*VQ(#%[*(*8CM696AEP>([>_B><:E<=(I98&96CQ()8B@@69GQ(&V&VQ()J6D>?J>KQ('V Q̀( 8̀J@?F>9=Q(,V&VQ(,B9<>9Q(5V!VQ( [>=9>Q( nVTV( /0..S2(T( GEP>9?EAK( M98ZJ>( 8@( A;>( ;BC6<(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6V(&><8C>('>?(1SU1.abL1.X.V

dae( &9E:>Q( "VTVQ( h8<=Q( +V+VQ( *8<J6<Q( [VQ( O>CE<=w(*V)VQ(O6PE?Q(nVQ(m8B<=Q(TV*VQ(#%[*(*8CM696AEP>([>-_B><:E<=(I98=96CQ()8B@@69GQ(&V&VQ()J6D>?J>KQ('V V̀Q(5B996KQ(IV'VQ(&9>><Q("VOVQ(,B9<>9Q(5V!VQ([>=9>Q(nVTV(/0..-2(,8M8=96M;E:6J( 6<G( A>CM896J( GEP>9?EAK( 8@( A;>(;BC6<(?DE<(CE:98FE8A6V([:E><:>(b0aU11-.L11-0VdXe( [A6BGE<=>9Q(,V(IEM6JQ(TVQ('>GJQ()V(/0.112(58J>:B-J69(6<6JK?E?(8@(A;>(CE:98FE8A6(8@(;BC6<(C6J>(6<G(@>-C6J>(@89>;>6G(?DE<(:8CM69>G(A8(@89>69C(?DE<V(n(TMMJ(5E:98FE8J(11.U1bS1L1bS-Vd3e( `EJ?8<Q(5V( /0..X2(,;>(?DE<(6<G( EA?( E<GE=><8B?(CE:98FE8A6V( %<U( 5E:98FE6J( %<;6FEA6<A?( 8@( +BC6<?V("GEA>G(FK(`EJ?8<(5Q(*6CF9EG=>U(*6CF9EG=>(R<EP>9-?EAK(I9>??Q(MM(X1L1.aVdce( YE>9>9Q(#VQ(+6C6GKQ(5VQ(!6BF>9FQ(*V!VQ(h<E=;AQ('V(/0..S2(,;>(E<\B><:>(8@(?>NQ(;6<G>G<>??Q(6<G(H6-?;E<=(8<(A;>(GEP>9?EAK(8@(;6<G(?B9@6:>(F6:A>9E6V(I98:(#6AJ(T:6G([:E(R[T(1.XU1c--aL1c---VdSe( ,>B@>JQ(!VQ(IEM6JQ(TVQ([:;B?A>9Q(h*VQ([A6BGE<=>9Q(,VQ( '>GJQ( )V( /0.1.2( 56A>9E6JLG>M><G><A( =98HA;( 8@(;BC6<(?DE<(F6:A>9E6(8<(A>NAEJ>?(E<P>?AE=6A>G(FK(:;6J-J><=>( A>?A?( 6<G(O#TL=><8AKME<=V( n(TMMJ(5E:98FE8J(1.SUaX.La31Vd-e( *8A<>9Q([VQ(#6P98A?DE("VQ([>H>96(!VQ([<KG>9(oVQ('E:;A>9("V(/0.1.2(OEP>9?EAK(8@(:BJAB96FJ>(F6:A>9E6(8<(<6AB96J(P?(69AEZ:E6J(@6F9E:?V(%<A>9<>A(n(5E:98FE8J(SU0Vd1.e(,6D6?;EC6Q(5Q([;E96EQ(YQ([6=>?;EC6Q(5Q( %D>G6Q(#Q(fD6C8A8Q(mQ(O8;EQ(mV(/0..a2(OE?AE<:AEP>(F6:A>9E6LFE<GE<=(M98M>9AK(8@(:J8A;(C6A>9E6J?V(TC(n(%<@>:A(*8<-

A98JV(b0U0cLb.Vd11e(T96Q(hVQ(+6C6Q(5VQ(TDEF6Q([VQ(h8ED>Q(hVQ(fDE?6-D6Q(hVQ(+6=B96Q(,VQ(h6CEK6Q(,VQ(,8CEA6Q(YV(/0..32(Y88A(8G89(GB>(A8(CE:98FE6J(C>A6F8JE?C(6<G(EA?(:8<A98JV(*6-<6GE6<(n(5E:98FE8J(X0UbXcLb3aV

A B

Figure 3. Changes in the relationship between Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria after the wearing trials with

234536®!&'(&)*'"9!:;!.'<$%'!&='!>'/%)-?!&%)/*"+!@;!/<&'%!&='!>'/%)-?!&%)/*"9

!"

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*1!0"!2*****!"*3*!4

5*678*9:;<=;7*>?@7*8:AB*:6A@:6;:<* 6CAD@CE*FCG7*@7AC@HC6<I

Anemone Tautenhahn

J7EB7:G*K:?@7;*(G?-L*)7M76;?D@M7@*NA@O*"0/L*/440/*J7EB7:GL*(7@GC6IPB=67Q*1RS/2*/SS"*//T4U4V*KCWQ*1RS/2*/SS"*//TUXYZ*$TGC:EQ*C67G=67OACDA76BCB6[\7EB7:GT>?@7;O<=G*.B:;*]D?E:<CA:=6*8C;*]@7;76A7H*HD@:6M*AB7*U0AB*^C63^CH7*K:?7@*,=6_7@76<7*!0""L*`=@6?:@6L*5D;A@:CO

Abstract

%=8CHCI;L*<7EEDE=;:<*C6HL*7;]7<:CEEIL*9:;<=;7*>?@7;*>6H*G=@7*C6H*G=@7*_D6<A:=6CE*C]]E:<CA:=6;OaB:E7*AB7I*87@7*=@:M:6CEEI*H7;:M67H*C;*C*;D?;A:ADA7*_=@*<=AA=6L*:A*8C;*;==6*_=D6H*=DA*ABCA*AB@=DMB*G=H:><CA:=6*=_*]@=HD<A:=6*]C@CG7A7@;L*>?@7;*8:AB*;]7<:CE*]@=]7@A:7;*T*E:\7*FCG7*@7AC@HC6<I*T*<=DEH*?7*GCH7Obc7@H:d*:;*C*"00e*C6:=6:<*9:;<=;7*>?@7*8B:<B*:;*;7E_T7WA:6MD:;B:6M*8:AB=DA*C6I*CHH:A:=6CE*<B7G:<CE*CHH:A:97;L*_=@*7WCG]E7*BCE=M76L*]B=;]B=@D;*=@*?=@L*ABD;*:A*:;*]7@_7<AEI*;D:A7H*_=@*C*<=6;DG7@*GC@\7A*8B:<B*]@:=@:A:f7;*]@=-A7<A:=6L*<=G_=@AL*_@77H=G*=_*]=A76A:CEEI*BCfC@H=D;*;D?;AC6<7;*C6H*;D;AC:6C?:E:AIO

Keywords: !"#$%#&'()*+&(,&-*,.*/$0'(1&23&"+(4"5,&#

Introduction

^=;A*]7=]E7*CE@7CHI*\6=8*;=G7*>?@7;*C6H*AB7:@*<B7G:<CE*CHH:A:97;*8B:<B*<C6*?7*D;7H*_=@*FCG7T@7AC@HC6A*]@=A7<A:-97*<E=AB:6M*C6H*:A*:;*=?9:=D;*ABCA*;D<B*]@=A7<A:97*<E=AB:6M*:;*67<7;;C@I*_=@*<7@AC:6*8=@\87C@*17OMO*_=@*>@7G762O*

+DA*8B:E7*AB7*:G]=@AC6<7*=_*FCG7T@7AC@HC6A*<E=AB:6M*:;*79:H76A*:6*AB7*]@=_7;;:=6CE*;7<A=@L*AB7*]@:9CA7*;7<A=@*:;* @CAB7@* 67ME7<A7HO*^C6I*]7=]E7* E:\7* A=* AB:6\* bABCA*8:EE*6=A*BC]]76*A=*G7dL*=@*AB7I*C?;AC:6*_@=G*]=;;:?E7*]@=A7<A:97* <E=AB:6M* _=@* _7C@* =_* BCfC@H=D;* <B7G:<CE*CM76A;*:6*AB7*<E=AB:6M*AB7I*87C@*=6*AB7:@*;\:6O*'6*@7-<76A*I7C@;L*E=A;*=_*>@7;*8B:<B*<CD;7H*B7C9I*:6gD@:7;*A=*]7=]E7L*<B:EH@76L*7EH7@EI*]7=]E7*C6H*CHDEA;*87@7*;AC@-A7H*?7<CD;7*AB7:@*<E=AB:6M*<CDMBA*>@7O*

.B7*M=CE*=_*FCG7T@7;:;AC6A*<E=AB:6M*:;*A=*;C97*C6H*]@=A7<A*AB7* E:97;*=_* AB7*<=6;DG7@*?I*]@7976A:6M* E==;7*<E=AB:6M*_@=G*<CA<B:6M*>@7O*.B7*]@:GC@I*<=6<7@6*:;*AB7*_C<A*ABCA*]7=]E7*C@7*6=A*CE8CI;*C;*<C@7_DE*C;*AB7I*;B=DEH*?7*C@=D6H*=]76*FCG7;L*;D<B*C;*<C6HE7;*C6H*>@7]EC<7;O*

'6*AB7*76HL*<=6;DG7@;*677H*A=*H7<:H7*:_*<=6<7@6;*C?=DA*<B7G:<CE*D;7*=DA87:MB*AB7:@*<=6<7@6;*C?=DA*>@7*;C_7AIOa:AB*bc7@H:dL*J7EB7:G*K:?@7;*]@=9:H7;*C*"00e*<7EEDE=;:<*?C;7H*FCG7T@7AC@HC6A*9:;<=;7*>?@7*8:AB=DA*C6I*CHH:A:=-6CE*<B7G:<CE*CM76A;L*8B:<B*:;*_@77*=_*BCE=M76L*]B=;]B=@D;*C6H*?=@*T*<=6;DG7@;*H=6hA*677H*A=*GC\7*C*<=G]@=G:;7*

C6I*G=@7O*.B7I*M7A*FCG7T@7AC@HC6<7*C;*C*@7CE*?767>A*8:AB=DA*C6I*A@CH7=__;O

Materials and Methods

'6:A:CEEIL*AB7*:697;A:MCA:=6*8C;*?C;7H*=6*C*<=G]C@:;=6*=_* A8=*H:__7@76A*6=68=976* _C?@:<;* <=6AC:6:6M*"00e*c:;<=;7*8:AB*"OiHA7WL*C6H*"00e*c7@H:L*8:AB*"O/HA7WL*:6*87:MBA;*=_*"00MjGk*C6H*!"0MjGk*7C<BO.B7*;CG]E7;*8C@7*<@7CA7H*CA*N.K'*:6*AB7*H797E=]G76A*=_*AB7*]@=g7<A*b,7EEDE=;:<*>?@7;*8:AB*C*678*_D6<A:=6C-E:A:I*_=@*]@=A7<A:97*<E=AB:6M*CMC:6;A*<=EHd*1b,7EEDE=;7-_C;7@6*G:A* 67D7@* KD6\A:=6CE:AlA* _m@* JlEA7;<BDAf\E7:-HD6Md2*:6*<=EEC?=@CA:=6*8:AB*AB7*-=B76;A7:6*'6;A:ADA7O5HH:A:=6CE*@7;7C@<B*:6*A7;A:6M*AB7*FCGGC?:E:AI*=_*?E76H;*=_*c7@H:*C6H*=AB7@*<7EEDE=;:<*>?@7;*:;*;A:EE*:6*]@=M@7;;O

LOI.B7*#n'*1#:G:A:6M*=WIM76*:6H7W2*<C6*?7*D;7H*A=*;]7<:_I*AB7*FCGGC?:E:AI*=_*C*A7WA:E7O*'A*:;*G7C;D@7H*?I*C]]EI:6M*C6*=WIM76j6:A@=M76TG:W*A=*AB7*?D@6:6M*;CG]E7Z*:_*AB7*;CG]E7*?D@6;*_=@*E=6M7@*ABC6*"Y0;*=@*AB7*?D@6:6M*@7C<B7;*C*]@7H7->67H*GC@\L*AB7*=WIM76*E797E*:;*M@CHDCEEI*@7HD<7HO*.B7*#n'*H7;<@:?7;*AB7*G:6:GDG*<=6<76A@CA:=6*=_*=WIM76*:6*C6*=WI-M76j6:A@=M76TG:W*8B:<B*;D]]=@A;*<=G?D;A:=6O*.BD;L*B:MB*#n'*9CED7;*G7C6*M==H*FCG7T@7AC@HC6<IZ*#n'*9CED7;*C@7*H7A7@G:67H*?I*C*;AC6HC@H:f7H*A7;AL*;D<B*C;*'Nn*SUY/O

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22

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a$5)$)*,n^Kn).*.B7*AB7@G=]BI;:=E=M:<CE*87C@7@*<=G_=@AL*8B:<B*8C;*H797E=]7H*C;*C*A7;A:6M*G7AB=H*?I*AB7*-=B76;A7:6*'6;-A:ADA7L* CEE=8;* G7C;D@:6M* AB7* <=G_=@A* =_* A7WA:E7* MC@-G76A;O* 'A* :;*G7C;D@7H*8:AB* C* ;\:6* ;:GDECA:=6*G=H7E*?C;7H* =6* <=@@7ECA:=6* ?7A8776* A7;A* H79:<7;* C6H* @7CE*]7@;=6;L*:6*AB7*<E:GCA7*<BCG?7@O*'A*CEE=8;*]@7H:<A:6M*8B7AB7@*AB7*MC@G76A*8:EE*_77E*8C@G*A=*C*<D;A=G7@L*:_*:A*8:EE*_77E*87A*8B76*AB7*<D;A=G7@*:;*;87CA:6M*=@*:_*:A*8:EE*_77E*<=EH*A=*AB7*A=D<BO*K=@*AB7*>@;A*@=D6H*=_*A@:CE;L*AB7*_=EE=8:6M*A7;A;*87@7*<C@@:7H*=DAQ

!* .B7@GCE*'6;DECA:=6*1)ctq"04 m2*Jja2** .7;A*$rD:]G76AQ*.B7*-=B76;A7:6*N\:6*^=H7E* .7;A*^7AB=H;Q*;77*`'%*$%*4"*0/!*10!j/S2j* 'Nn*""*0/!*1"0j/42

!* aCA7@*cC]=D@*C?;=@?76<I*]=A76A:CE*1Ki*MjG22* .7;A*$rD:]G76AQ*.B7*-=B76;A7:6*N\:6*^=H7E* .7;A*^7AB=H;Q*;77*`'%*$%*4"*0/!*10!j/S2j* 'Nn*""*0/!*1"0j/42

Results and Discussions

LOIc7@H:*;B=87H*C*B:MB7@*#n'*ABC6*c:;<=;7L*,=AA=6*C6H*AB76* ]=EI7;A7@Z* :A* ;B=87H* C* ;:G:EC@* ]7@_=@GC6<7* A=*8==E*1K:MD@7*"2O5;*c7@H:*:;*C:G7H*_=@*AB7*]@:9CA7*<=6;DG7@*GC@\7AL*6=*<=G]C@:;=6;*A=*K)*>?@7;*17OMO*.@79:@C*,N2*87@7*GCH7O

+o)%'%(*+$-5c'no)*.$N.N*5,,n)`'%(*.n*`'%*$%*"SYiY)7_7@@:6M*A=*`'%*$%*"SYiYL*;CG]E7;*87@7*7WCG:67H*E76MAB8:;7*C6H*ECA7@CEEI*C6H*GC@\7@*AB@7CH;*87@7*CA-AC<B7H*A=*AB7*;CG]E7;*:6*=@H7@*A=*?7*C?E7*A=*H7A7@G:67*AB7* ;]77H* =_* FCG7* ;]@7CH:6MO* 1";A* GC@\7@* AB@7CHQ*!!<GZ*4@H*GC@\7@*AB@7CHQ*U!<G2O*.B76*AB7*;CG]E7;*87@7*]DA*:6A=*C6*:M6:A:=6*<BCG?7@O*5_A7@8C@H;L* AB7* ;CG]E7;*87@7* A7;A7H* _=@* ;:H7T7__7<A;*1E:\7*B=E7;L*G7EA7H*;]=A;2O

c7@H:*:;*;7E_T7WA:6MD:;B:6ML*:O7O*AB7*FCG7;*;A=]*;]@7C-H:6MO*5_A7@*7WA:6<A:=6L*AB7*>?@7*<=6A:6D7;*A=*;G=DEH7@O*.B7* ?CEC6<7* ?7A8776* ?D@6:6M* C6H* <C@?=6:;CA:=6* :;*;B:_A7H* G=@7* A=8C@H;* <C@?=6:;CA:=6L* M767@CA:6M* E7;;*767@MIO

,=G]C@7H*A=*C*;AC6HC@H*9:;<=;7*>?@7L*AB7*;]77H*=_*FC-G7*;]@7CH:6M*8:AB*c7@H:*8C;*=97@*/Ue*;E=87@O*

.B7*_=EE=8:6M*<BC@A*;B=8;*AB7*;]77H*=_*FCG7*;]@7C-H:6M*:6*GGj;*1E=87@*:;*?7AA7@2*1K:MD@7*!2O*

a$5)$)*,n^Kn).*'6*=@H7@*A=*A7;A*AB7*87C@7@*<=G_=@A*_=@*AB7*<=6;DG7@L*87*<C@@:7H*=DA* ;=G7* A7;A;*8:AB* AB7*-=B76;A7:6*N\:6*^=H7EO

.-$)^5#*'%No#5.'n%*1)ctq"04^2*Jja2a:AB*:H76A:<CE*87:MBAL*c7@H:*;B=87H*C*;E:MBAEI*?7AA7@*AB7@GCE* :6;DECA:=6* <=G]C@7H* A=* C* ;AC6HC@H* 9:;<=;7* >?@7*1K:MD@7*42O* a5.$)*c5Pno)*5+Nn)+$%,s*Pn.$%.'5#*1K'*(j^22.B7*G7C;D@7G76A*=_*8CA7@*9C]=D@*C?;=@?76<I*]=A76-A:CE*H7>67;*AB7*<C]C?:E:AI*=_*AB7*_C?@:<*A=*C?;=@?*G=:;-AD@7*_@=G*AB7*;\:6Oc7@H:*;B=87H*C6*:6<@7C;7*:6*8CA7@*9C]=D@*C?;=@?76<I*]=A76A:CE*=_*=97@*4!e*<=G]C@7H*A=*C*;AC6HC@H*9:;<=;7*>?@7*1K:MD@7*S2O

Figure 1.(6%+7*,"#%/(%8(9:;(<2"+"-"/=(%>0=&/("/.&>?(%8(@*,"%A#(B5,&#C

Figure 2. Burning behaviour tests according to DIN EN

DEFGFC

!4

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*1!0"!2*****!"*3*!4

Conclusions

c7@H:* 8:EE* B7E]* A=* ;C97* E:97;* T* ?I* ]@=9:H:6M* A:G7*AB@=DMB*;7E_T7WA:6<A:=6O*

.B7*:6A@:6;:<*FCG7T@7AC@HC6A*7__7<A*=_*c7@H:*:;*C<B:7-97H*?I*C6*CHH:A:97*8B:<B*:;*C]]E:7H*HD@:6M*>?@7*]@=-HD<A:=6*C6H*:A*:;*6=A*67<7;;C@I*A=*D;7*<B7G:<CE*CM76A;*:6*C*>6:;B:6M*]@=<7;;*C_A7@8C@H;O*.BD;L* AB7*7__7<A* :;*]7@GC676A*C6H*<C66=A*?7*8C;B7H*=DAO*.B7*CHH:A:97*:6*c7@H:*:;*<7@A:>7H*_=@*D;7*:6*_==H;Z*'A*:;*BCE=M76TL*]B=;-]B=@D;T*C6H*?=@T_@77Oa:AB*c7@H:L*AB7@7*:;*6=*HC6M7@*A=*AB7*B7CEAB*?I*]=A76-A:CEEI* HC6M7@=D;* <B7G:<CE* CM76A;* T* MC@G76A;* <C6* ?7*8=@6*H:@7<AEI*=6*AB7*;\:6O*'6*>@;A*A@:CE;L*c7@H:*;B=87H*;:G:EC@*M==H*]@=<7;;C?:E:AI*<=G]C@7H*8:AB*C*;AC6HC@H*A7WA:E7*9:;<=;7*>?@7*8:AB*C*;:G:EC@*>?@7*A:A@7O5EE*:6*CEEL*c7@H:*:;*AB7*6=T<=G]@=G:;7*>?@7*_=@*C*]@:-9CA7*<=6;DG7@*GC@\7A*T* :A*CHH;*@7CE*?767>A;*8:AB=DA*C6I* H=86;:H7;* 8B:E7* ?@:6M:6M* ]@=A7<A:=6* C6H* AB7*<=G_=@A*=_*C*"00e*<7EEDE=;:<*>?@7O

.BD;L*c7@H:*:;*AB7*?7;A*6CAD@CE*;=EDA:=6*A=*]@7976A*;7-97@7* :6gD@:7;* <CD;7H*?I*?D@6:6M*<E=AB7;*8B:E7*?7:6M*769:@=6G76ACEEI*_@:76HEIO

Acknowledgements

.B7* CDAB=@* 8=DEH* E:\7* A=* ABC6\* CEE* <=EE7CMD7;* 8B=*B7E]7H* :6* AB7*<@7CA:=6*=_* AB:;*]@=g7<A* :6*M767@CE* C6H*AB:;*]C]7@*:6*]C@A:<DEC@O

References

t"u*`'%*$%*"SYiYQ!00/*.7WA:E7;*T*+D@6:6M*?7BC9:=D@*=_*<B:EH@76h;*6:MBA87C@*3*N]7<:><CA:=6*t!u*`'%*$%*4"*0/!*10!j/S2*j*'Nn*""0/!*1"0j/42*.7W-A:E7;Z* ]BI;:=E=M:<CE* 7__7<A;Z*G7C;D@7G76A* =_* AB7@GCE*C6H*8CA7@T9C]=D@*@7;:;AC6<7*D6H7@*;A7CHIT;ACA7*<=6H:-A:=6;*1;87CA:6M*MDC@H7HTB=A]ECA7*A7;A2*t4u* JO-O* oG?C<BL* P@=HD\ACD;f7:<BD6M* d.@CM7\=G-_=@Ap*5G*P=:6A*=_*NCE7L*#76f:6M7@*+7@:<BA7L*YU*1!00X2*/T"X

Figure 3.(H3&,+*2(;/#A2*-"%/(<IctJDKL(+M(1NO?C Figure 4.(O*-&,(!*7%A,(*5#%,5&/$0(7%-&/-"*2(<4"(=N+M?C

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((03(4(5.

24

6789:(;<=>:?>@=A(B@>C(*=9D=<>(D<=9(!:AE@AF(6@G:<H

Jim Taylor and Marina Crnoja-Cosic

!:AE@AF(I&J(K:<LH><8M:(0J(3NO.(!:AE@AFJ(IPH><@8;C=A:Q(/R352(SOS0(S.1T03.OU(68VQ(/R352(SOS0(-1NT03.OU(:98@7Q(WX>8Y7=<Z7:AE@AFX?=9,C@H([PG7@?8>@=A(B8H([<:H:A>:\(\P<@AF(>C:(].>C(^8A4^8\:(6@G:<(*=AD:<:A?:(0.11J(_=<AG@<AJ(IPH><@8X

Introduction

TENCEL®(7Y=?:77(C8H(G::A(8`8@78G7:(@A(>C:(98<L:>(D=<(H:`:A>::A(Y:8<HX(%A(@>aH(:8<7Y(H>8F:H(=D(@A><=\P?>@=A(>C:(98<L:>(8??:[>:\(7Y=?:77(D=<(@>H(8G@7@>Y(>=(F:A:<8>:(A:B(8A\( :V?@>@AF( 8:H>C:>@?HJ( [8<>@?P78<7Y( G:?8PH:( =D( @>H(H=D>A:HH(8A\([:8?CT7@L:(>=P?CX^=<:(<:?:A>7Y(7Y=?:77(C8H(D=PA\(8[[7@?8>@=AH(@A(98<-L:>( H:F9:A>H( >C8>( 8<:( \<@`:A( 9=<:( GY( [:<D=<98A?:(>C8A(D8HC@=AX(,C:H:(8[[7@?8>@=AH(P>@7@H:(9=<:(?=A`:A-

>@=A87( \Y:@AF( 8A\( bA@HC@AF( >:?CA=7=FY( HP?C( 8H( DP77(=[:A( B@\>C( [<=?:HH@AF( =D>:A( ?=P[7:\( B@>C( <:H@A( b-

A@HC@AF(>=(?=A><=7(>C:(bG:<(bG<@778>@=A(@A(HPGH:cP:A>(B8HC@AFX':?:A>(H>P\@:H(@A(!:AE@AF(C8`:(\:9=AH><8>:\(>C8>(7Y=-?:77( bG:<H( C8`:( 8( PA@cP:( H:9@T9@?<=( bG<@778<( bG:<(H><P?>P<:(BC@?C(F@`:H(<@H:(>=(:V><:9:7Y(̀ 87P8G7:(9=@H->P<:(C8A\7@AF(8A\(?=9D=<>([<=[:<>@:HX(,C:([8[:<(B@77(G<@:dY(:V[78@A(H=9:(=D(>C:H:(H>P\@:HX,C:( 98@A( G=\Y( =D( >C:( [8[:<( B@77( <:[=<>( =A( H>P\@:H(98\:( @A`:H>@F8>@AF( >C:( 8[[7@?8>@=A( =D( ?=A`:A>@=A87(6789:(':>8<\8A>(/6'2(>=[@?87(><:8>9:A>HJ(HC=B@AF(8\-`8A>8F:H( @A( >:<9H( =D( ?=9D=<>J( H=D>A:HH( 8A\( [:<D=<-98A?:( >C8>( ?8A( G:( <:87@H:\( @A( 1..e( 7Y=?:77( D8G<@?H(>=F:>C:<(B@>C(G7:A\H(=D(7Y=?:77(B@>C(?=>>=AX

Why use TENCEL®?

6f'(,+"("#g%'f#^"#,TENCEL®(7Y=?:77(@H([<=\P?:\(D<=9(1..e(A8>P<87(<8B(98>:<@87H(4(B==\[P7[X(,C@H([P7[(@H(=G>8@A:\(D<=9(HPH->8@A8G7:(D=<:H>(98A8F:9:A>J(BC:<:( >C:( ><::H(8<:(D8<-9:\(=A(8(>:A(Y:8<(F<=B@AF(?Y?7:X,C:([<=\P?>@=A([<=?:HH(@H(8(H>8>:(=D(>C:(8<>(?7=H:\(7==[(H=7`:A>(H[@AA@AF([<=?:HHJ(BC:<:GY(B==\([P7[J(B8>:<(8A\( H=7`:A>( 8<:( >C:( =A7Y( @A[P>H( 8A\( bG:<J( B8>:<( 8A\( H=7`:A>( 8<:( >C:( =A7Y( =P>[P>HX( ,C:( H=7`:A>J( #T^:>CY79=<[C=7@A:T#TfV@\:( @H( A=AT>=V@?( 8A\( @H(--X-e(<:?Y?7:\X6@FP<:(1(G:7=B(HC=BH(>C:(bG:<([<=\P?>@=A([<=?:HH(@A(H?C:98>@?(D=<9X

6f'(*f^6f',A Microporous structure

TENCEL®(bG:<H(8<:(98AT98\:(?:77P7=H@?(bG:<H([<=-

\P?:\(GY(>C:(7Y=?:77([<=?:HHJ(8(\@<:?>(\@HH=7P>@=A(H[@A-A@AF( [<=?:HH( >C<=PFC( <:F:A:<8>@=A( D<=9( 8( H=7`:A>( /#4^:>CY79=<[C=7@A:4#4fV@\:2(h1i(h0i%A( C@FC( 98FA@b?8>@=A( ><8AH9@HH@=A( :7:?><=A( 9@?<=-

F<8[CH(/6@FP<:(02(@>(?8A(G:(H::A(?7:8<7Y(>C8>(>C:([=<:(H><P?>P<:( =D( 7Y=?:77( @H( 8( HPG9@?<=TbG<@778<( H><P?>P<:X(

Figure 1.!"#$%#&®!'()*+''!,-+.!/.)01*23)4!/.)*+556

25

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((03(4(5.

,C@H( @H( PA@cP:( 89=AFH>( 877(98A498\:( ?:77P7=H@?( b-

G:<HX(!Y=?:77(?=AH@H>H(=D(?=PA>7:HHJ(`:<Y(CY\<=[C@7@?J(?<YH>877@A:(bG<@7HJ(BC@?C(8<:(8<<8AF:\(@A(8(̀ :<Y(<:FP78<(98AA:<X(,C:(bG<@7H( >C:9H:7`:H(\=(A=>(8GH=<G(B8>:<U(B8>:<( 8GH=<[>@=A( =A7Y( >8L:H( [78?:( @A( >C:( ?8[@778<@:H(G:>B::A( >C:(bG<@7HX(I( H@AF7:( 7Y=?:77(bG:<J( >C:<:D=<:J(B@77( G:C8`:( 7@L:( 8A( @\:877Y(B:>>@AF(9@?<=(9P7>@b78-9:A>J(H=9:>C@AF(BC@?C(\=:H(A=>(:V@H>(@A(>C:(HYA>C:>@?(bG:<H(B=<7\X(,C@H(@H(>C:(<:8H=A(D=<(>C:(:V?:77:A>(B8>:<(98A8F:9:A>( 8A\( >C:( `:<Y( F==\( ?=9D=<>( @A(B:8<( =D(>:V>@7:H(?=A>8@A@AF(,"#*"!®(h5i

Water Absorbency

,C:(@AC:<:A>([CYH@=7=F@?87([<=[:<>@:H(\:[:A\(=A( >C:(

89=PA>(=D(B8>:<(BC@?C(@H(8GH=<G:\(8A\(C=B(@>(@H(\@H-><@GP>:\(B@>C@A(>C:(HB=77:A(bG:<(H><P?>P<:X(,"#*"!®

7Y=?:77( C8H( 8( `:<Y( C@FC( 8GH=<[>@=A( ?8[8G@7@>Y( 8A\( 8(`:<Y(H9==>C(HP<D8?:X(IH(8(<:HP7>J(877(>C:H:([CYH@=7=F@-?87( DPA?>@=AH( 8<:(9P?C(9=<:( [<=A=PA?:\( D=<( ,"#-

CEL®(>C8A(D=<(=>C:<(?:77P7=H@?(bG:<HX

,<8AH9@HH@=A( :7:?><=A( 9@?<=H?=[Y( ?8A( G:( PH:\( >=(HC=B( >C:( 7=?8>@=A( =D(B8>:<( @A( 8( bG:<X( 6=<( @98F@AFJ(B8>:<T?=A>8@A@AF( [=<:H( 8<:( b77:\( 8A\( H>8@A:\(B@>C( 8(?=A><8H>@AF( HPGH>8A?:X( ,C:( B8>:<T?=A>8@A@AF( [=<:H(HC=B(P[(G78?LJ(GP>(>C:(?:77P7=H:(B@>C=P>(H>8@A(HC=BH(P[(BC@>:X(6@FP<:(5( HC=BH( >C:( ?<=HHTH:?>@=AH(=D( D=P<(B8>:<(HB=77:A(?:77P7=H@?(bG:<H(h3iX

*=>>=A(8GH=<GH(9P?C(7:HH(B8>:<(>C8A(7Y=?:77J(9=\87(=<(`@H?=H:X(,C:( ?<YH>877@A:( HL@A( =D(9=\87( ?=A>8@AH( 7:HH(B8>:<(>C8A(>C:(?=<:X(,C:(B8>:<(\@H><@GP>@=A(=D(7Y=?:77(@H( `:<Y( PA@D=<9( =`:<( >C:( BC=7:( bG:<( ?<=HH( H:?>@=AX(^=\87(8A\(`@H?=H:(C8`:(8(<8>C:<(?=8<H:([=<:(HYH>:9(B@>C(8(B@\:(<8AF:(=D([=<:(H@E:(\@H><@GP>@=A(D<=9(A8A=-9:>:<( >=(9@?<=9:>:<( H@E:( \@9:AH@=AHX( ,C:( `=@\H( @A(7Y=?:77(8<:(`:<Y(H9877(8A\(cP@>:(PA@D=<9J(@A(>C:(A8A=-

9:>:<(<8AF:X(

Fiber Surface Smoothness

,:V>@7:H( ?=9:( @A>=( ?=A>8?>( B@>C( >C:( HL@A( @A( `8<@=PH(B8YHX(,C:(HP<D8?:(?=A\@>@=A(8A\(9=@H>P<:(F<:8>7Y(@A-

dP:A?:(>C:(HL@AjH(H:AH=<Y([:<?:[>@=AX(*=8<H:(8A\(B:>(

Figure 2. Transmission Electron Micrograph Image of

"#$%#&®!'()*+''!,-+.6

Figure 3.!7)5323)4!)8!9-5).-+0!:;2+.!34!*+''1')53*!,-+.56!".;45<3553)4!+'+*2.)4!<3*.)=.;/>56!:;2+.!;//+;.5!-';*?!@+'+*2.)4!

0+45+A6!! ! ! *=>>=A(( 4(( !Y=?:77(( 4(( ^=\87(( 4(( g@H?=H:

Figure 4.!#'+*2.)4!B3*.)=.;/>5!*)</;.34=!,-+.!51.8;*+!8+;21.+56

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((03(4(5.

26

>:V>@7:H(?8A(@<<@>8>:(>C:(HL@A(\P:(>=(C@FC:<(D<@?>@=A(<:-H@H>8A?:X(,"#*"!®(7Y=?:77(@H(H9==>C:<(>C8A(=>C:<(A8->P<87( bG:<HX( %>( C8H( 8( C@FC( 8GH=<G:A?Y( >C8>( <:9=`:H(9=@H>P<:(D<=9(>C:(bG:<(HP<D8?:J(>CPH(L::[@AF(>C:(>:V-

>@7:(A:V>(>=(>C:(HL@A(9P?C(\<@:<(8A\(?<:8>@AF(7:HH(D<@?->@=AX(6@FP<:(3(HC=BH(>C:(bG:<(HP<D8?:X

,C:( @AC:<:A>( [CYH@=7=F@?87( [<=[:<>@:H( \:[:A\( =A( >C:(89=PA>(=D(B8>:<(BC@?C(@H(8GH=<G:\(8A\(C=B(@>(@H(\@H><@-GP>:\(B@>C@A(>C:(HB=77:A(bG:<(H><P?>P<:X(,"#*"!®(C8H(8(`:<Y(C@FC(8GH=<[>@=A(?8[8G@7@>YJ(8(PA@cP:(HPG9@?<=TbG<@7(H><P?>P<:(8A\(8(`:<Y(H9==>C(HP<D8?:X((IH(8(<:HP7>J(877( >C:H:( [CYH@=7=F@?87( DPA?>@=AH( 8<:( 9P?C( 9=<:( [<=A=PA?:\( D=<( ,"#*"!®( >C8A( D=<( =>C:<( ?:77P7=H@?( bG:<H(h5iX

Topical Flame Retardant Treatments

68G<@?H(?8A(G:(><:8>:\(>=(98L:(>C:9(d89:(<:>8<\8A>(GY(8[[7Y@AF(8A(8[[<=[<@8>:(?C:9@?87(>=(>C:(D8G<@?X(,C:(b<H>( 6'( ><:8>:\( D8G<@?H( PH:\( @A=<F8A@?( H87>H( HP?C( 8H(87P9@A@P9(CY\<=V@\:J(8A>@9=AY(><@=V@\:(8A\(G=<8>:H(>=(98L:(?=>>=A(D8G<@?H(d89:(<:>8<\8A>X(,C:H:(B:<:(:D-D:?>@`:(GP>(B:<:(A=>(\P<8G7:(>=(B8HC@AFX(,C:(H[8<@A-

F7Y( H=7PG7:( @A=<F8A@?( H87>( @H( F<8\P877Y( <:9=`:\( GY(HP??:HH@`:( B8HC:H( PA>@7( >C:<:( @H( @AHPDb?@:A>( 7:D>( >=(98L:( >C:( D8G<@?( d89:( <:>8<\8A>X( %A=<F8A@?( H87>H( 8<:(PH:\(>=(d89:(<:>8<\(D8G<@?H(BC:<:(B8HC@AF(@H(A=>(A=<-9877Y(<:cP@<:\(HP?C(8H(>C:8><:(?P<>8@AH(8A\(G8?L(?=8->@AF(=D(P[C=7H>:<Y(D8G<@?HXf<F8A@?([C=H[C=<=PH(?=A>8@A@AF(?=9[=PA\H(>C8>(8<:(<:8?>:\(=A>=(>C:(?=>>=A(:@>C:<(GY(F<8D>@AF(=<(A:>B=<L(D=<98>@=A(8<:(9=<:(\P<8G7:(8A\(8<:(B@\:7Y(PH:\X(,B=(=D(>C:(7:8\@AF(G<8A\(A89:H(8<:(;<=G8A(/'C=\@82(8A\(;Y<=`8>:V(/+PA>H98A2X(,C:H:(bA@HC:H(8<:(\P<8G7:(>=(:V>:A\:\(B8HC@AF(GP>(>C:Y(?8A(G:(<:9=`:\(GY(C8<HC(?C:9@?87(><:8>9:A>HX(,C:(7:`:7(=D(bA@HC(<:\P?:H(B@>C(HP??:HH@`:(B8HC(?Y?7:H(8A\(@>(@H(?=99=A([<8?>@?:(>=(PH:(8A(:V?:HH(=D(bA@HC(H=(>C8>(HPDb?@:A>(@H(H>@77([<:H:A>(8>(>C:(:A\(=D(>C:(7@D:(=D(>C:(D8G<@?X(,C:(bA@HC(8[[7@?8->@=A(C8H(8A(8\`:<H:(H>@DD:A@AF(:DD:?>(=A(>C:(D8G<@?X(6'(?=>>=A( D8G<@?H( =D( >C@H( >Y[:( 8<:( @A( PH:( D=<( [<=>:?>@=A(D<=9(d89:X6'(><:8>:\(?=>>=A(D8G<@?H(8<:(=D(A=>@?:8G7Y(H>@DD:<(C8A\(>C8A(A=A(6'(?=>>=A(D8G<@?H(8A\(>C:@<(HP<D8?:(>:A\H(>=(G:( <=PFC:<X( ,C:H:( D8?>=<H(98L:( >C:( F8<9:A>H(98\:(D<=9(6'(><:8>:\(?=>>=A(D8G<@?(7:HH(?=9D=<>8G7:(>=(B:8<(>C8A(F8<9:A>H(98\:( D<=9(PA><:8>:\(?=>>=A(8A\( >C:Y(98Y(G:(PA[7:8H8A>(>=(>C:(>=P?CX(,<:8>9:A>(B@>C(8A(6'(bA@HC( <:\P?:H( >C:( [CYH@?87( [<=[:<>@:H( =D( >C:( D8G<@?([8<>@?P78<7Y(>:8<(H><:AF>CJ(8A\(?8A(H@FA@b?8A>7Y(8DD:?>(>C:(D8G<@?(C8A\(8A\(H=D>A:HHX(,C@H(?8A(C8`:(8(98<L:\(:DD:?>(=A(>C:(H:<`@?:(7@D:(=D(F8<9:A>H(98\:(D<=9(>C:(D8G<@?HX(,=(=`:<?=9:(>C@H(B:8L:A@AF(=D(>C:(D8G<@?J(@>(@H(

?=99=A(>=([<=\P?:(C:8`@:<(B:@FC>(D8G<@?H(H=(>C8>(>C:(9:8HP<:\(>:8<(H><:AF>C(9::>H(>C:(H[:?@b?8>@=A(D=<(D8-G<@?H(PH:\(D=<([<=>:?>@`:(?7=>C@AF(8A\(@A(=<\:<(>=(F@`:(8A( 8??:[>8G7:( @A( PH:( [:<D=<98A?:( 8A\( H:<`@?:( 7@D:X((+:8`@:<(B:@FC>(D8G<@?H(8<:(@A(F:A:<87(H>@DD:<(8A\(>CPH(:`:A(7:HH(?=9D=<>8G7:(>=(B:8<XK:(C8`:(87<:8\Y(H::A(@A(>C:(98<L:>(8(AP9G:<(=D(?C@A=(H>Y7:( ><=PH:<@AF( 8[[7@?8>@=AH(\:`:7=[:\( D<=9( 7Y=?:77(87=A:( =<(9=<:( =D>:A( @A( G7:A\(B@>C( ?=>>=A( >C8>( C8`:([<=`:\(HP??:HHDP7(8H(>C:Y([<=\P?:(D8G<@?H(>C8>(8<:(H=D->:<J(9=<:(?=9D=<>8G7:J( <:>8@A(H><:AF>C(G:>>:<(=A(:8HY(?8<:( bA@HC@AF( 8A\( <:>8@A( ?=7=<( :V?:[>@=A877Y( B:77(>C<=PFC(9P7>@[7:(B8HC@AFXk@A?:( >C:( 98@A( \@H8\`8A>8F:H( =D( 6'( ><:8>9:A>H( =A(?=>>=A( [<@98<@7Y( <:78>:( >=( H>@DDA:HH( =D( C8A\( 8A\( PA-

?=9D=<>8G7:(=`:<(?=AH><P?>:\(C:8`Y(D8G<@?H(8A(=[[=<->PA@>Y(B=P7\(H::9(>=(:V@H>(D=<(7Y=?:77(>=(@9[<=`:(>C:-H:(?=9D=<>(8A\(B:8<@AF([<=[:<>@:HX

I;;!%*I,%f#(f6(6'(6%#%k+"k(,f(!lf*"!!(I#_(!lf*"!!(m(*f,,f#(BLENDSI7>C=PFC( H@9[7:( =<F8A@?( H87>H( ?8A( @9[8<>( :V?:77:A>(d89:( <:>8<\8A>( [<=[:<>@:H( >=( ?:77P7=H:J( \P<8G@7@>Y( >=(78PA\:<@AF( @H( 8( [<:<:cP@H@>:( <:cP@<:9:A>( D=<( 8[[8<:7(8[[7@?8>@=AHX( ,C:( 9=H>( HP??:HHDP7( \P<8G7:( d89:( <:>8<\8A>H( D=<( ?:77P7=H:( 8<:( G8H:\( =A( [C=H[C=<=PH( 8A\(A@><=F:A(?=A>8@A@AF(?C:9@?87(HYH>:9H(>C8>(:@>C:<(<:8?>( B@>C( >C:( bG:<( =<( D=<9( ?<=HH7@AL:\( H><P?>P<:H( =A( >C:( bG:<( HP<D8?:X( ,C:H:( 8<:( :@>C:<( G8H:\( =A( #T9:>CY7=7( \@9:>CY7[C=H[=A=[<=[@=A89@\:( =<(>:><8L@H/CY\<=VY9:>CY72[C=H[C=A@P9( ?C7=<@\:( =<(,+;*X(,C:(D=<9:<(B@77(D=<9(?<=HH7@ALH(B@>C(>C:(bG:<(8A\(@H(?=99=A7Y(8`8@78G7:(@A(>C:(98<L:>(D<=9(8(AP9-

G:<(=D(HP[[7@:<H(=D(BC@?C(>C:(9=H>(B:77(LA=BA(@H(;Y-

<=`8>:V(*;(D<=9(+PA>H98AX(,C:(78>>:<(D=<9H(8([=7Y-

9:<@?(H><P?>P<:(=A(>C:(bG:<H(8A\(@H(8([<=?:HH(7@?:AH:\(GY('C=\@8J(B:77(LA=BA(8H(;<=G8AXKC:>C:<(>C:(HYH>:9(D=<9H(?<=HH7@ALH(B@>C(>C:(bG:<(@H(8(L:Y([<=[:<>Y(BC:A(?=AH@\:<@AF(@>H([:<D=<98A?:(=A(7Y=?:77J(G:?8PH:(?<=HH7@AL@AF(@H(A::\:\(>=([<:`:A>(b-

G:<(bG<@778>@=A(@A(78PA\<YX

Pyrovatex CP type

,C:(A=<987(8[[<=8?C(@H(>=(<:8?>(>C:(#T9:>CY7=7(\@9:->CY7[C=H[=A=[<=[@=A89@\:( @A( ?=9G@A8>@=A(B@>C( ><@-9:>CY7=7(9:789@A:(8A\([C=H[C=<@?(8?@\(8H(?8>87YH>(@A(8([8\T\<YT?P<:([<=?:HHX(,C:( <:cP@<:\(8\\T=A( @H(A=<-9877Y(0.T5.e\:[:A\@AF(=A(>C:(B:@FC>(=D(>C:(D8G<@?X(K8HC@AF( @H( A::\:\( 8D>:<( ?P<@AF( >=( <:9=`:( >C:( 8?@\X(,C:H:(C@FC(7:`:7H(=D(8?@\(?8A(87H=(<:HP7>(@A(bG:<(\:F<8-\8>@=A(\P<@AF(>C:([<=?:HHJ(H=(=D>:A(D8G<@?H(A::\(>=(G:(=`:<(:AF@A::<:\(>=(877=B(8??:[>8G7:(>=(G:(<:>8@A:\(8D->:<(>C:([<=?:HHX

27

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((03(4(5.

(CH5f2

2P=OCH

2CH

2C=OCNHCH

2OH !( f+T*:77((

(CH5f2

2P=OCH

2CH

2C=ONHCH

2fT*:77

I(?=9[8<@H=A(B8H(?8<<@:\(=P>(=D(>C:(:DD:?>(=D(>C@H([<=-?:HH(=A(?=>>=AJ(7Y=?:77(8A\(8A(@A>@98>:(].m].(7Y=?:77(m(?=>>=A(G7:A\X

68G<@?HQK8<[(N.m0(#:J(6@77(1m1O(#:J(-S:m@AJ(]1[m@AJ(H:9@TC=[-H8?L(H><P?>P<:J(]=EmHc(Y8<\I[[7@?8>@=A(<:?@[:Q

3..Fm7( ;Y<=`8>:V(*;(4(!6O.Fm7( nA@>>:V(^!6(A:B(/9:789@A:205Fm7( ;C=H[C=<@?(I?@\(/N.e2(/?8>87YH>25.Fm7( ,P<[:V(I*#(A:B(/H=D>:A:<25.Fm7( o7><8>:V(6kI(A:B(/H=D>:A:<2]97m7( %A`8\@A:(/B:>>:<2N.e( B:>([@?L(P[;8\J(\<Y(8>(10.p*J(?P<:(](9@AH(8>(1].(p*K8HC(=DD(8A\(A:P><87@E:X

,C:(>:H>(<:HP7>H(?8A(G:(H::A(@A(,8G7:(1X

,C:H:(<:HP7>H(8<:(>Y[@?87X(k><:AF>C(7=HH(=D(7@L:(D=<(7@L:(><:8>9:A>H(=A(7@L:(D=<(7@L:(D8G<@?(H><P?>P<:H(HC=B(8(H@-FA@b?8A>( 7=B:<( H><:AF>C( 7=HH( D=<( 7Y=?:77( D8G<@?H( >C8A(=A(?=>>=AX(,C@H(@H(8(><:A\(87H=(H::A(@A(<:H@A(bA@HC@AFX%>(@H(87H=(@9[=<>8A>(>=(A=>:(>C8>(>C:(7Y=?:77(D8G<@?(<:-98@AH( H@FA@b?8A>7Y( H=D>:<( 8D>:<( >C:( ><:8>9:A>( >C8A(

1..e(?=>>=AJ(8A\( >C8>( >C:(8[[:8<8A?:(8D>:<(B8HC@AF(<:98@AH( :V?:77:A>X( ,C:( ?<=HH7@AL@AF( DPA?>@=A( =D( >C:(;Y<=`8>:V(bA@HC([<:`:A>H(bG<@778>@=A(=D(>C:(7Y=?:77(b-

G:<H(@A(B8HC@AFX

%)<8).2!7.)/+.23+5!)8!'()*+''!C!*)22)4!8;-.3*5!

treated with Pyrovatex CP and comparison with

DEEF!*)22)4

,C:( ?=9D=<>( [<=[:<>@:H( B:<:( 8HH:HH:\( PH@AF( %kf(11.-05( q,:V>@7:HT( ;CYH@=7=F@?87( "DD:?>H( 4( ^:8HP<:-9:A>(=D(,C:<987(8A\(K8>:<(g8[=P<(':H@H>8A?:(PA\:<(k>:8\Y( H>8>:(*=A\@>@=AH( /kB:8>@AF( FP8<\:\( C=>[78>:(>:H>2r

,C@H(>:H>(B=<LH(8H(D=77=BHQ6=<(>C:(\:>:<9@A8>@=A(=D(>C:(B8>:<(`8[=P<(<:H@H>8A?:J(':>J(8A(:7:?><@?877Y(C:8>:\([=<=PH([78>:(@H(?=`:<:\(GY(8(B8>:<T`8[=P<([:<9:8G7:(GP>(7@cP@\(B8>:<(@9[:<9:8-G7:(9:9G<8A:X(K8>:<( D:\( >=( >C:(C:8>:\([78>:(:`8[=-

<8>:H(8A\([8HH:H(>C<=PFC(>C:(9:9G<8A:(8H(`8[=P<J(H=(>C8>(A=(7@cP@\(B8>:<(?=A>8?>H(>C:(>:H>(H[:?@9:AX(K@>C(>C:( >:H>( H[:?@9:A([78?:\(=A( >C:(9:9G<8A:J( >C:(C:8>(dPV(<:cP@<:\(>=(98@A>8@A(8(?=AH>8A>(>:9[:<8>P<:(8>(>C:([78>:(@H(8(9:8HP<:(=D(>C:(<8>:(=D(B8>:<(:`8[=<8>@=A(8A\(D<=9(>C@H(>C:(B8>:<(`8[=P<(<:H@H>8A?:(=D(>C:(H89[7:H(@H(9:8HP<:\X)8H@?877YJ(>C:(B8>:<(`8[=P<(@H(\<@`:A(>C<=PFC(>C:(D8G-

<@?( GY(9:8AH( =D( 8( [<:HHP<:( F<8\@:A>J( <:HP7>@AF( D<=9(\@DD:<:A>(<:78>@`:(CP9@\@>@:HX,C:(<:HP7>(?8A(G:(H::A(@A(6@FP<:(]X

Table 1. Effect of Pyrovatex treatment on lyocell and cotton.

Figure 5.!:;2+.!G;/)1.!.+5352;4*+!@H+2A6

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((03(4(5.

28

,C:(<:HP7>H(8<:(<:78>@`:7Y(H@9@78<(@A(>C@H(9:8HP<:X(,C@H(@H(>=(G:(:V[:?>:\(8H(>C:(`87P:(@H(78<F:7Y(\:[:A\:A>(=A(>C:(D8G<@?(?=AH><P?>@=A(8A\(>C@?LA:HHX(6@G<:(?C:9@H><Y(F:A:<877Y(\=:H(A=>(8DD:?>(>C@H([<=[:<>Y(>==(9P?CX

+=B:`:<J(D<=9(>C:H:(>:H>(<:HP7>H(B:(?8A(9:8HP<:(>C:(6@(`87P:(/6@FP<:(O2X

,C:(6@(`87P:(@H(\:>:<9@A:\(GY(B:@FC@AF(>C:(D8G<@?(G:-D=<:(8A\(8D>:<(>C:(>:H>(BC@?C(>8L:H(1X](C=P<HX(,C:(`8-7P:(@A(FmHc(9(@H(>C:(89=PA>(=D(B8>:<(`8[=P<(>8L:A(P[(GY(>C:(D8G<@?(@A(1X](C=P<HX,C:( \@DD:<:A?:( G:>B::A( >C:( ?=>>=A( 8A\( >C:( 7Y=?:77( m(?=>>=A( G7:A\( /-XN( `( 15X02( <:[<:H:A>( 8( \@DD:<:A?:( =D(

0Oe(B:(B=P7\(:V[:?>(D<=9(>C@HJ(>C8>(B:8<@AF(?=9D=<>(>=(G:(H@FA@b?8A>7Y(G:>>:<(8H(>C:(GPDD:<@AF(?8[8?@>Y(D=<(B8>:<(`8[=P<(@H(H@FA@b?8A>7Y(:AC8A?:\X

IA=>C:<(@A>:<:H>@AF(9:8HP<:(@H(>C8>(=D(B8>:<(8?>@`@>YX(,C:(<:HP7>(@H(HC=BA(@A(6@FP<:(S

K8>:<( 8?>@`@>Y( \:H?<@G:H( >C:( :cP@7@G<@P9( 89=PA>( =D(B8>:<(8`8@78G7:(D=<(CY\<8>@=A(=D(98>:<@87H(8>(8(F@`:A(>:9[:<8>P<:(8A\(9=@H>P<:X(%>(@H(\:bA:\(8H(>C:(<8>@=(=D(>C:(B8>:<(`8[=<([<:HHP<:(=`:<(8( H89[7:( >=( >C8>(=`:<([P<:(B8>:<(8>(>C:(H89:(>:9[:<8>P<:X(%A(=>C:<(B=<\HJ(@>(@H(8(9:8HP<:(D=<(>C:(D<::J(8`8@78G7:(B8>:<(@A(8(98>:<@87X(%A( F:A:<87J( qD<::(B8>:<r( <:[<:H:A>H( >C:( G8H@H( D=<( >C:(

Figure 6.!:;2+.!G;/)1.!;-5)./23)4!@I3A6

Figure 7. Water Activity.

29

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F<=B>C(=D(9@?<==<F8A@H9HX(8B(?8A(<8AF:(D<=9(.(>=(1X(

I>(8B(s(.X-J(G8?>:<@8(H>8<>(>=(F<=BX(I(7=B(89=PA>(=D(

qD<::(B8>:<r(/7=B(B8>:<(8?>@`@>Y2(<:HP7>H(@A(8(<:>8<\:\(F<=B>C(=D(9@?<==<F8A@H9HX(k=(D=<(CY\<=[C@7@?(bG:<HJ(>C:(89=P>(=D(D<::(B8>:<(@H(7=B:<(>C8A(D=<(HYA>C:>@?H(8H(>C:Y(\=(A=>(8GH=<G(B8>:<X,C:(7=B:H>(7@A:(@H(D=<(>C:(?=>>=AX(,C:(<:HP7>(HC=BH(>C8>(@>(?8A(8GH=<G(8G=P>(Ne(9=@H>P<:(G:D=<:(>C:(B8>:<(8?->@`@>Y(`87P:(<:8?C:\(.X-(8A\(G8?>:<@8(?8A(F<=BX

,C:(=>C:<(H89[7:(@H(>C:(7Y=?:77(G7:A\X(%>(@H(HP[:<@=<(>=(>C:(?=>>=AJ(<:8?C@AF(P[(>=(879=H>(10e(9=@H>P<:(G:D=<:(>C:(?<@>@?87(.X-(`87P:(@H(<:8?C:\X

,C:(bA87(9:8HP<:(>C8>(@H(̀ :<Y(<:7:`8A>(>=(?=9D=<>(@H(>C8>(=D(8@<([:<9:8G@7@>Y(8A\(>C:(<:HP7>(@H(HC=BA(@A(6@FP<:(NX,C:( <:HP7>H( HC=B( >C8>( >C:( 7Y=?:77( m( ?=>>=A( G7:A\( @H(9P?C(9=<:(G<:8>C8G7:(>C8A(>C:(?=>>=A(D8G<@?X(,C:(?=A-H><P?>@=AH(8<:(@\:A>@?87(4(>C:(\@DD:<:A?:(\:<@`@AF(D<=9(>C:(7:8AJ(<:FP78<(Y8<AH(@A(>C:(7Y=?:77(G7:A\X,C:(6'([:<D=<98A?:(8A\(\P<8G@7@>Y(@H(@\:A>@?87(4(>C:(7Y=?:77(m(?=>>=A(G7:A\(H@9[7Y(=P>H?=<:H(>C:(?=>>=A(D=<(?=9D=<>(<:78>:\([<=[:<>@:HX

Proban type

,C:( L:Y( @AF<:\@:A>( @A( >C@H( bA@HC( @H(,+;*(BC@?C( @H(98\:(D<=9(>C:(<:8?>@=A(=D([C=H[C@A:J( D=<987\:CY\:(8A\(CY\<=?C7=<@?(8?@\X(,C:(,+;*(B@77(<:8?>(B@>C(P<:8(>=(D=<9(8([<:?=A\:AH8>:(B@>C(C:8>X(,C@H([<:?=A\:AH8->:( @H( [8\\:\( =A>=( >C:( D8G<@?( 8A\( >C:( D8G<@?( \<@:\( >=(t1]e(9=@H>P<:(?=A>:A>X(,C:(D8G<@?(@H(>C:A(:V[=H:\(>=(899=A@8(`8[=P<H(@A(8(H[:?@87(<:8?>@=A(?C89G:<(D=77=-B:\(GY( =V@\8>@=A( @A( CY\<=F:A( [:<=V@\:(BC@?C( ?=A-

`:<>H(>C:([C=H[C=<=PH(8>=9H(>=(>C:@<(C@FC:H>(=V@\8>@=A(H>8>:(>C8>(<:HP7>H(@A(?:77P7=H@?(F==\H(B@>C(`:<Y(\P<8G7:(d89:(<:>8<\8A?YX(fA:(=D(>C:(\<8BG8?LH(=D(>C@H(>:?C-

A=7=FY(@H(>C:(H>@DDA:HH(=D(>C:(><:8>:\(D8G<@?H(87>C=PFC(

?8<:DP77Y( ?C=H:A( H=D>:A:<H( 8A\(9:?C8A@?87( bA@HC@AF([<=`@\:(?=99:<?@877Y(8??:[>8G7:(D8G<@?HX,C:( [=7Y9:<( >C8>( D=<9H( @H( [<@98<@7Y( 7=?8>:\( =A( >C:(HP<D8?:(=D(>C:(bG:<(8A\(@>(\=:H(A=>(:DD:?>@`:7Y(?<=HH-7@AL(>C:(bG:<X(,<:8>9:A>(=D(7Y=?:77(bG:<(B@>C(>C:(;<=-

G8A( >Y[:( =D( bA@HC( [<=\P?:H( 8( H=D>:<( D8G<@?( >C8A( >C:(:cP@`87:A>( ?=>>=A( D8G<@?( 8H( :V[:?>:\X( +=B:`:<J( >C:(D8?>(>C8>(A=(?<=HH7@ALH(8<:(D=<9:\(9:8AH(>C8>(>C:(D8G-

<@?(B@77( bG<@778>:( \P<@AF( 78PA\<Y( F@`@AF( >C:( D8G<@?( 8(\@H><:HH:\(8[[:8<8A?:(:`:A(>C=PFC(>C:(d89:(<:>8<\8A>([<=[:<>@:H(8<:(:DD:?>@`:7Y(98@A>8@A:\X

%A(=<\:<( >=(8?C@:`:(8??:[>8G7:(B8HC8G@7@>Y(B@>C( <:H-[:?>(>=(D8G<@?(HP<D8?:(8[[:8<8A?:(@>(@H(A:?:HH8<Y(>=(?8<-<Y(=P>(8(H:?=A\8<Y(bA@HC@AF([<=?:HH(8D>:<(>C:(;<=G8A(8[[7@?8>@=A( >=( @9[8<>( [<=>:?>@=A( 8F8@AH>( bG<@778>@=A(BC@?C(@H(8A(PAB8A>:\([<=?:HH(8\\@>@=AX

I( H:?=A\( 87>:<A8>@`:( B8H( >=( @A`:H>@F8>:( >C:( PH:( =D(TENCEL®(I1..X(,C@H(bG:<(@H(?<=HH7@AL:\(\P<@AF(>C:(bG:<(98APD8?>P<:X(I( ><@87(B8H( ?8<<@:\( =P>( >=( ><:8>( 8(LA@>>:\(TENCEL®(I1..(D8G<@?(@A(;<=G8A(8A\(>C:A(>=(HPGW:?>(>C:(D8G<@?(>C<=PFC(<:[:8>:\(B8HC@AF(4(@A(>C@H(@AH>8A?:( 1].( ?Y?7:H( 8>( 13.p6X( ,C:( 8[[:8<8A?:( B8H(98@A>8@A:\(8A\(A=(bG<@778>@=A(B8H(`@H@G7:(:`:A(8D>:<(>C@H(:V>:A\:\(B8HC@AF(><@87X(6'([<=>:?>@=A(B8H(98@A-

>8@A:\( 8A\( [C=H[C=<PH( 7:`:7( >:H>H( \:9=AH><8>:\( >C8>(>C:( ;C=H[=<PH( 7:`:7( C8\( =A7Y( D877:A( D<=9( 0XNe( >=(0XOe(:`:A(8D>:<(1].(B8HC(?Y?7:HX(KC@7H>( >C@H(HC=BH(:V><:9:7Y(F==\([=>:A>@87J(8(AP9G:<(=D(@HHP:H(H>@77(<:-98@A( >=( G:( =`:<?=9:X(TENCEL®(I1..( @H( A=>( DP77Y(H>8G7:( >=( `8>( \Y:( 8[[7@?8>@=AJ( H=( ?P<<:A>( LA=B7:\F:(B=P7\(<:H><@?>(>C:(8[[7@?8>@=AH(>=(BC:<:(<:8?>@`:(D8H>-A:HH(@H(HPDb?@:A>X

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Figure 8. Air permeability.

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5.

Table 2. #88+*2!)8!7.)-;4!,435>34=!)4!.+;*23G+!0(+!'3=>2!8;524+556

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,8G7:(0(HC=BH(H=9:(>Y[@?87(7@FC>(D8H>A:HH(<:HP7>HX

Conclusions

TENCEL®(7Y=?:77(?8A(G:(HPGW:?>:\(>=(?=99:<?@87(d8-9:( <:>8<\8A>( bA@HC:H( =D( >C:( ;Y<=`8>:V( 8A\( ;<=G8A(>Y[:X(K@>C( ;Y<=`8>:VJ( 7:HH( H><:AF>C( 7=HH:H( 8<:( H::A(>C8A(=A(?=>>=A(8A\(B@>C(G=>C(>Y[:H(=D(bA@HCJ(>C:(D8G<@?(C8A\(@H(H@FA@b?8A>7Y(H=D>:<X,C:(?<=HH(7@AL@AF(G:C8`@=<(=D(>C:(;Y<=`8>:V(?C:9@H><Y(@H(HPDb?@:A>(>=([<:`:A>(bG<@778>@=A(=A(<:[:8>:\(78PA\:-<@AFXK@>C(;<=G8AJ(>C:(D8G<@?(C8A\(@H(H@FA@b?8A>7Y(G:>>:<(=A(7Y=?:77(>C8A(?=>>=AX(,C:([=7Y9:<(F:A:<8>:\(\P<@AF(>C:(;<=G8A(bA@HC@AF(\=:H(A=>(:DD:?>@`:7Y(?<=HH7@AL(>C:(b-

G:<(8A\( H=( >C:( D8G<@?(8[[:8<8A?:(B@77(\:>:<@=<8>:(=A(B8HC@AF(8H(8(<:HP7>(=D(bG:<(bG<@778>@=AX(,=([<:`:A>(>C@H(8( H:?=A\8<Y(bA@HC( @H( A:?:HH8<YX( %D( >C@H( @H( PA\:H@<8G7:J(>C:A(TENCEL®(I1..( F@`:H( 8A( =[[=<>PA@>Y( >=( 8[[7Y(;<=G8A(8A\(8?C@:`:(:V?:77:A>(7=AF(>:<9(B8HC(\P<8G@7@>YX

f;;f',o#%,%"k(6f'(,"#*"!(I#_(,"#*"!(m(COTTON BLENDS

%9[<=`:\(H=D>A:HH(@A(6'(D8G<@?H%9[<=`:\( ?=9D=<>( <:HP7>@AF( D<=9( 7Y=?:77jH( PA@cP:([<=[:<>@:H(=D(9=@H>P<:(98A8F:9:A>(8A\(B:8<8G@7@>YX!:HH( H><:AF>C( 7=HH( F@`:H( =[[=<>PA@>Y( >=( PH:( 7@FC>:<-B:@FC>(D8G<@?H"V?:77:A>(<:>:A>@=A(=D(C8A\J(H=D>A:HH(8A\(8[[:8<8A?:(>C<=PFC(9P7>@[7:(B8HC(><:8>9:A>HX"V?:77:A>(:A`@<=A9:A>87(8A\(HPH>8@A8G@7@>Y(?<:\:A>@87H

References

h1i( KC@>:( ;XQ( !Y=?:77Q( >C:( [<=\P?>@=A( [<=?:HH( 8A\(98<L:>(\:`:7=[9:A>X(%AQ(':F:A:<8>:\(?:77P7=H:(bG:<HJ(*X(K==\@AFH( /:\X2J( O0( 4( NSJ(K==\C:8\( ;PG7@HC@AF(!>\XJ(%k)#(1(N]]S5(3]-(1J(/0..12(*89G<@\F:J("AF-

78A\Xh0i( k?CPH>:<( nX*XJ( :>( 87XQ( "A`@<=A9:A>87( 6<@:A\7Y(!Y=?:77(8A\('8Y=A(6@G:<HJ(%A(#8>P<87(6@G:<HJ(;78H>@?H(8A\(*=9[=H@>:HJ(n7PB:<(I?8\:9@?( ;PG7@HC:<H()=H->=Am_=<\<:?C>m#:B(l=<Lm!=A\=AJ(%k)#(1(3.0.(SO35(OJ(okI(/0..52J([[X(105413OXh5i( 6@<F=(+XJ(k?CPH>:<(n*J(kP?C=9:7(6XJ(^uAA:<(vXJ()P<<=B(,XJ(IGPT'=PH(̂ XJ(,C:(DPA?>@=A87([<=[:<>@:H(=D(TENCEL®T( 8(?P<<:A>(P[\8>:X(!:AE@AF:<():<@?C>:(N](/0..O2h3i( IGPT'=PH(̂ XJ(%AF=7@?("XJ(k?CPH>:<(nX*XJ(g@HP87@-H8>@=A(=D(>C:(6@G<@778<(8A\(;=<:(^=<[C=7=FY(=D(*:77P-

7=H@?(6@G:<H(I[[7Y@AF(,<8AH9@HH@=A("7:?><=A(^@?<=-

H?=[YJ(*:77P7=H:J(/0..O2(h]i( ':D:<:A?:(%kf(11.-0Q1--5/"2

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#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120"23*****!"*4*!5

TENCEL®*6*'789:;<=*8<9>:97?@A<* >:9*B:9CB<?9

Alexandra Steger, Claus Metzig, Marina Crnoja-Cosic and Jim Taylor

#<@DE@F*G(H*I<9CJK9?L<*2H*MN50*#<@DE@FH*GOJK9E?PQ:@<R*1SM!3*T5T2*T0"62UT5V*W?XR*1SM!3*T5T2*/"N62UT5V*<7?EYR*?ZJK<F<9[Y<@DE@FZA:7.QEJ*8O\YEA?KE:@*B?J*89<J<@K<=*=O9E@F*KQ<*U0KQ*]?@4]?=<*WE\<9*,:@><9<@A<*20""H*^:9@\E9@H*GOJK9E?Z

Abstract

.Q<*B:9CB<?9*7?9C<K*EJ*7<?@BQEY<*_OEK<*A:78Y<X*?@=*<YOJE;<Z*P9:=OAKJ*A?@@:K*\<*AY<?9Y`*=<a@<=*?@=*JO88Y`*AQ?E@J*;?9`*?*Y:K*=O<*K:*=E>><9<@K*AQ?@@<YJ*K:*KQ<*7?9C<KZ*.Q<*_O<JKE:@*bBQ?K*9<89<J<@KJ*F::=*B:9CB<?9c*A?@@:K*\<*?@JB<9<=*JO>aAE<@K*BEKQ:OK*K?CE@F*E@K:*A:@JE=<9?KE:@*KQ<*E@K<9<JKJ*:>*KQ<*;?9E:OJ*JK?C<Q:Y=<9JZ.Q<*<@=*OJ<9*B:OY=*9?KQ<9*F:*>:9*B<?9E@F*A:7>:9K*?@=*=<JEF@H*\OK*Q<*EJ*J<Y=:7*KQ<*=<AEJE:@*7?C<9Z*.Q<*<;<9Y?J-KE@F*89EA<*K:8EA*A?@*?YJ:*@:K*\<*KQ<*:@Y`*=9E;<9H*\OK*BEYY*?YB?`J*9?@C*QEFQ*>:9*KQ:J<*BQ:*K?C<*KQ<*E@;<JK7<@KH*?YK-Q:OFQ*?AKO?YY`*KQ<*a@?Y*YE><*A`AY<*A:JKJ*:>*?*F?97<@K*?9<*7OAQ*7:9<*E78:9K?@K*?J*KQ<`*A:@JE=<9*KQ<*=O9?\EYEK Z̀*.QEJ*EJ*<J8<AE?YY`*E78:9K?@K*>:9*E@=OJK9E?Y*Y?O@=9E<JH*BQ:*:@*KQ<*:KQ<9*Q?@=*A9<?K<*@<B*AQ?YY<@F<J*>:9*KQ<*F?9-7<@KJ*\`*?=?8KE@F*KQ<E9*89:A<JJ<J*E@*:9=<9*K:*J?;<*9<J:O9A<J*YEC<*B?K<9*?@=*<@<9F Z̀*G@=*a@?YY`*JOJK?E@?\EYEK`*BEKQ*?YY*EKJ*?J8<AKJ*EJ*J8:KYEFQK<=*7:9<*?@=*7:9<Z.:*7<<K*?YY*KQ<J<*9<_OE9<7<@KJ*\<JK*8:JJE\Y<H*K<XKEY<J*>:9*B:9CB<?9*Q?;<*K:*\<*A:@JK9OAK<=*E@*?*AY<;<9*B?`*OJE@F*\<JK*8<9>:97E@F*7?K<9E?YJZ.QEJ*8?8<9*BEYY*9<8:9K*:@*a@=E@FJ*:>*?*89:K:K`8E@F*89:d<AKH*BQEAQ*A:78?9<=*@<B*A:@JK9OAKE:@J*OJE@F*#<@DE@FeJ*Y`:A<YY*a\<9*.$%,$#®*BEKQ*A:@;<@KE:@?Y*B:9CB<?9*>?\9EAJZ*.?9F<K*:>*KQ<J<*@<B*A:@JK9OAKE:@J*EJ*K:*:>><9*E789:-;<=*8<9>:97?@A<*?@=*A:7>:9K*BEKQ:OK*E@A9<?JE@F*KQ<*A:JKJZ

Workwear market

I-G.*'f*Ig)hI$G)iWorkwear -** F?97<@KJ*BQEAQ*89<;<@K*KQ<** B<?9<9*>9:7*?@`*=E9K*:9*J:EY*** =O9E@F*B:9CCorporate wear -*F?97<@KJ*BQEAQ*A9<?K<*?** ** A:98:9?K<*E=<@KEK`*\<KB<<@*B<?9<9*** ?@=*<78Y:`E@F*A:78?@`Protective wear -**F?97<@KJ*BQEAQ*89<;<@K*KQ<*** B<?9<9*(PPE)*>9:7*?@`*Q?97*** A?OJ<=*\`*B:9C*19<_OE9<** A<9KEaA?KE:@*\`*@:KEa<=*\:=`3

TARGET GROUPSindustry - * 7<K?Y*1<ZFZ*<@FE@<<9E@FH** ?OK:7:KE;<H*<Y<AK9:@EAJ3H** AQ<7EA?Y*1<ZFZ*:EYH*8Y?JKEAJH*** 8Q?97?A<OKEA?Y3health care sector*Q:J8EK?YJH*A?9<*K?CE@F*A<@K9<JH** B<YY@<JJjf8?hospitality* Q:K<YJH*9<JK?O9?@KJH*>::=*E@=OJK9`

authorities* 8:YEA<H*7EYEK?9 H̀*a9<*\9EF?=<H** =:7<JKEA*?>>?E9Jservice sectors* \?@CE@FH*8:JKH*K9?@J8:9K?KE:@** 19?EYB? H̀*?E9YE@<J3

]G)h$.*^G.G.:=?`*KQ<*B:9Y=*B:9C*B<?9*7?9C<K*EJ*B:9KQ*?9:O@=*M*\EYYE:@*kfl*m"nZ'>*B<*?==*?YJ:* KQ<*A:98:9?K<*B<?9*\OJE@<JJH*B<* K?YC*?\:OK*?Y7:JK*"0*\EYYE:@*kflm"noG@`* >:9<A?JKJ* >:9* KQ<* @<?9* >OKO9<* ?9<* =E>aAOYK* KQ<J<*=?`JZ*g@*KQ<*:@<*Q?@=*8:8OY?KE:@*F9:BJ*?@=*J:*=:<J*KQ<*@O7\<9*:>*B:9C<9JZ*GYJ:*KQ<*JK?@=?9=*:>*YE;E@F*E@-A9<?J<J*A:@KE@O:OJY`*E@*KQ<*KQE9=*B:9Y=*A:O@K9E<J*?@=*7:9<* A:78?@E<J* ?9<* 9<?=`* K:* 89:;E=<*B:9C*B<?9* K:*KQ<E9*<78Y:`<<JZ

+OK*:@*KQ<*:KQ<9*Q?@=*7?@`*A:78?@E<J*?@=*<J8<AE?YY`*JK?K<*:B@<=*?OKQ:9EKE<J*?9<*>:9A<=*K:*9<=OA<*KQ<E9*\O=-F<KJ*=O<*K:*KQ<*A9<=EK*A9O@AQZ

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120"23*****!"*4*!5

!2

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HIGH STRENGTH^O<*K:*KQ<*=E>><9<@K*89:=OAKE:@*89:A<JJ*1?Y7:JK*A:78Y<-K<Y`*AY:J<=*J:Y;<@K*A`AY<*4*8Q`JEA?Y*89:A<JJ*p*J<<*?YJ:*

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fkP$)'g)*G+fg)P.'g%*,GPG,'.q,:78?9<=*K:*,:KK:@*?@=*P$f*4*KQ<*7?E@Y`*OJ<=*a\<9J*>:9*B:9CB<?9*6*.$%,$#®*Q?J*?*JEF@EaA?@K*QEFQ<9*?\J:98KE-:@*A?8?AEK Z̀*P$f*EJ*Q`=9:8QEA*?@=*KQ<*JE@FY<*a\<9*A?@@:K*?\J:9\*?@`*7:EJKO9<Z*G\J:98KE:@*BEKQE@*?*K<XKEY<*JK9OAKO9<*Q?88<@J*:@Y`*\<KB<<@*KQ<*a\<9J*?@=*KQ<*?\J:98KE:@*A?8?-AEK`*EJ*;<9`*Y:BZ*,:KK:@*A?@*?\J:9\*?\:OK*M0r*:>*EKJ*:B@*B<EFQK* ?@=* =:<J* @:K* 9<?AQ* KQ<* A?8?AEK`* :>*.$%,$#®H*BQEAQ*?\J:9\J*?\:OK*T0r*:>*EKJ*:B@*B<EFQKZ.QEJ*QEFQ*A?8?AEK`*EJ*\?J<=*:@*KQ<*O@E>:97*=EJK9E\OKE-:@*:>*KQ<*7:EJKO9<*:;<9*KQ<*BQ:Y<*a\<9*A9:JJ*J<AKE:@ZWEFO9<*"*JQ:BJ*KQ<*A9:JJ6J<AKE:@J*:>*KQ<*B?K<9*JB:Y-Y<@*a\<9J*m2nZ

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Prototyping

INITIAL SITUATIONIQ<@*B<*Y::C*?K*KQ<*:;<9?YY*B:9CB<?9*7?9C<KH*KQ<9<*EJ*:@<*=:7E@?KE@F*>?\9EA*BQEAQ*EJ*OJ<=*E@*\EF*;:YO7<J*>:9*J<;<9?Y*?88YEA?KE:@JZ*'KeJ*?*5Uj!Ur*P:Y`<JK<9*j*,:K-K:@* KBEYY*BEKQ* ?9:O@=* 2U0Fj7sZ*.QEJ* >?\9EA* JQ?YY* \<*9<8Y?A<=*\`*?*@<B*A:@JK9OAKE:@*OJE@F*.$%,$#®Z

APPROACH+?J<=*:@*KQ<*E@Q<9<@K*AQ?9?AK<9EJKEAJH*Y<JJ*.$%,$#®

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TEXTILE CONSTRUCTIONSI?98R* %7*2Nj"*9E@F*4*!2*<@=JjA7*Y::76JK?K<I<>KR* %7*"Tj"*9E@F*4*"N*8EACJjA7*Y::76JK?K<I<?;<R* KBEYY*2j"+Y<@=*"R* 5Ur*P$f*"ZU=K<Xj!N77*J<7E6=OYY

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Figure 3.!<=>:=?® production process.

Figure 4. Principle of the sweating guarded hot plate test.

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Figure 5. Results of the short-term water vapor absorption

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Figure 6. Principle of the water activity test.

Figure 7.!C-$%'($!)+!(5-!,&(-.!&3(#;#(1!6&,B;&'%-89

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Figure 9.!<-*$#'-!$(.-*4(5!&339!DE>!=>!EFG!HIJIKBH9

Figure 10.!<-&.!0.)0-.(#-$!&339!DE>!=>!EFG!HIJILBM9

Figure 8. Micrographs of different yarns.

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Figure 11.!N#''#*4!/-5&;#)%.!&339!DE>!=>!EFG!HMJKOBM9

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Conclusions

PES/TENCEL®* \Y<@=J* :>><9* E789:;<=* 8<9>:97?@A<*E@*K<97J*:>*B<?9E@F*A:7>:9K*?@=*=O9?\EYEK`*=O<*K:*KQ<*<XA<YY<@K*7:EJKO9<*7?@?F<7<@K*:>*.$%,$#®Z,:78?9<=* K:* A:@;<@KE:@?Y* P$fj,:H* KQ<* E789:;<=*7:EJKO9<*7?@?F<7<@K*:>*.$%,$#®*?YY:BJ*E@A9<?JE@F*KQ<*P$f*JQ?9<*E@*P$fj.$%,$#®*\Y<@=J*>:9*QEFQ<9*=O-9?\EYEK`*BEKQ:OK*Y::JE@F*?@`*B<?9E@F*A:7>:9KZ.Q<*OJ<*:>*.$%,$#®*?@=*?*89:8<9*J<Y<AKE:@*:>*`?9@*K<AQ@:Y:F`* JO88:9K* KQ<* Y:@F<;EK`* :>* B:9CB<?9* F?9-7<@KJ*?@=*E@A9<?J<*J:*KQ<E9*89:aK?\EYEK Z̀

References

m"n* xOJK6JK`Y<(Y:\?Y*7?9C<K*9<;E<B*:>*B:9CB<?9*4*>:9<A?JK*K:*20"5*120"0*<=EKE:@3m2n* G\O6):OJ*]ZH*'@F:YEA*$Z*?@=*fAQOJK<9*hZ,ZH*uE-JO?YEJ?KE:@* :>* KQ<* WE\9EYY?9* ?@=*P:9<*]:98Q:Y:F`* :>*,<YYOY:JEA* WE\<9J* G88Y`E@F* .9?@J7EJJE:@* $Y<AK9:@*]EA9:JA:8 H̀*,<YYOY:J<H*120053m!n* #<@DE@F*a\<9*?A?=<7 H̀*#?JJY*GZ*1200M3

Figure 12. P/.&$#)*!.-$#$(&*3-!&339!DE>!=>!EFG!HMJKLBM9

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Ingo Bernt1 and Jan Beringer2

3*KB?IB<L*7<CDBA*(LC-M*/!!0/*KB?IB<LM*(BDL>9NGI=9BO*1P6/4*/663*//Q2/RS*7>TO*1P6/4*/663*//Q32/RS*$QL><?O*<9J=UCBD9;VWB?IB<LQXCDBAU:=L2*-=IB9A;B<9*'9A;<;8;*EYD*.BT;<?<99=H>;<=9*J(LC-M*"6!R"*+=B99<JIB<LM*(BDL>9NGI=9BO*1P6/4*"36!*2"3*"36S*7>TO*1P6/4*"36!*2"3*/6"36S*$QL><?O*ZUCBD<9JBDVI=IB9A;B<9UFBGDBAB9;BF*[<;I*;IB*;<;?B*\,B??8?=A<:*XCDB*[<;I*>*9B[*E89:;<=9>?<;N\*>;*;IB*R0;I*]=D9C<D9*^>9Q^>FB*7<CBDA*,=9JDBAAM*36*5*3_;I*`Ba;BLCBD*2033M**b8A;D<>

Abstract

`a89?>:BF*>9F*9BBF?BEB?;*9=9[=HB9A*[BDB*L>FB*ED=L*I<JIQ>CA=DCB9:N*AaB:<>?<;N*H<A:=AB*XCDBAU*.B9A<?B*aD=aBD;<BA*=E*;IB*aD=F8:BF*L>;BD<>?A*[BDB*Bc8>?*=D*CB;;BD*>A*;I=AB*=E*>*DBEBDB9:B*9=9[=HB9*L>FB*ED=L*A;>9F>DF*H<A:=AB*XCDBU*da*;=*60e* I<JIBD*9=9[=HB9*>CA=DCB9:<BA*[BDB*>:I<BHBF*8A<9J*;IB*H<A:=AB*AaB:<>?<;<BAU

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Keywords: !"#$%#&'()*&#+',%,-%!&,+'.)#%*)&,$/+'$%01'2*%3&$3"!&'$0%34",5+'$0%34",5'24/#"%0%5/+' 34&*6.0' ",#70.3"%,+'-.3&*'

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Introduction

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Materials and Methods

^b.$)'b#`*)BJ8?>D*]>98X?®*H<A:=AB*XCDBA*>A*[B??*>A*E=8D*;NaBA*=E*AaB:<>?<jBF*H<A:=AB*XCDBA*[BDB*8ABF*<9*;I<A*A;8FNU*b??*H<A:=AB*XCDBA*<9*;I<A*DBa=D;*[BDB*aD=F8:BF*CN*KB?-IB<L*7<CDBA*>9F*8ABF*<9*;IB*<9F<:>;BF*:8;*?B9J;IM*[<;I*;IB* BT:Ba;<=9* =E* a>aBD* ;BA;<9JM* [I<:I*[>A* F=9B*[<;I*_LL*AI=D;Q:8;*XCDBAU*7<CDB*a>D>LB;BDA*>DB*J<HB9*<9*.>C?B*3U

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Table 1.'E"#$%#&'()*&'2.*.6&3&*#F

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Results and Discussion

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>E;BD*;IB*LB>A8DBLB9;U]>9;B*>9F*@BDF<*XCDBA*:>9*>CA=DC*L8:I*L=DB*[>;BD*H>-a=8D*;I>9*;IB*A;>9F>DF*H<A:=AB*XCDB*17<J8DB*"4U*b*F<EEB-DB9:B*<9*>CA=Da;<=9*CB;[BB9*Aa89?>:B*>9F*9BBF?BEB?;*:>9*>?A=*CB*=CABDHBFU*.IB*I=??=[*A;D8:;8DB*=E*;IB*]>9;B*XC-DB*DBA8?;A*9=;*<9*>*I<JIBD*>CA=DCB9:NU*.IBDBE=DB*;IB*L=-F<XBF* H<A:=AB* L>;D<T* <A* ;IB* L><9* E>:;=D* <9* <LaD=HBF*[>;BD*H>a=8D*>CA=Da;<=9*>9F*:>9*CB*E8D;IBD*<LaD=HBF*CN*;IB*\=aB9p*A;D8:;8DB*=E*;IB*9BBF?BEB?;U

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N?G

bE;BD* ;IB* A;>;<=9>DN*:=9F<;<=9A* ;IB* <9A;>;<=9>DN*:=9F<-;<=9A*[<;I*IB>H<BD*<UBU*?<c8<F*A[B>;<9J*[BDB*aBDE=DLBF*=9* ;IB*-=IB9A;B<9* AW<9*L=FB?* FB;BDL<9<9J* ;IB* ?<c8<F*A[B>;*;D>9Aa=D;*:>a>C<?<;<BA*=E*;IB*Aa89?>:B*9=9[=HB9AU*.I<A*J<HBA*>*:?B>D*a<:;8DB*=E*I=[*L8:I*?<c8<F*A[B>;*:>9*CB*;D>9Aa=D;BF*;D=8JI*;IB*E>CD<:*>[>N*ED=L*;IB*AW<9U+B??<9<*XCDB*I>A*;IB*I<JIBA;*A[B>;*;D>9Aa=D;*:>a>C<?<;<BA*F8B*;=*<9:DB>ABF*<9;BD*X?>LB9;*:>a<??>DN*BEEB:;A*FBD<H<9J*ED=L*;IB*f>;*A;D8:;8DB*>9F*;IB*I=??=[*]>;B*XCDB*I>A*;IB*?=[BA;*H>?8BAU*.IB*I=??=[*A;D8:;8DB*I=?FA*C>:W*L=A;*=E*;IB*?<c8<F*;D>aaBF*<9*;IB*<9;BD9>?*XCBD*:>a<??>D<BAU*@BDF<*>9F* A;>9F>DF* @<A:=AB* I>HB* :=La>D>C?B* J==F* H>?8BA* 17<J8DB*k4U*';*<A*<9;BDBA;<9J*;=*ABB*;I>;*;IB*?<JI;BD*Aa89-?>:B*9=9[=HB9A*AI=[*>??*I<JIBD*H>?8BA*[I<:I*<A*L><9?N*C>ABF*=9*;IB*?=[BD*;I<:W9BAA*=E*;IB*L>;BD<>?U

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Figure 6.'R)#%*)&,$/'%A',&&10&A&03',%,-%!&,#'A*%6'KLLM'

Viscose.

Figure 5. Absorbency of spunlaced nonwovens from

KLLME"#$%#&F

Figure 7. I4%*3'3"6&'-.3&*'!.2%7*'.)#%*)&,$/'N?iG'%A'

spunlace and needlefelt nonwovens.

63

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.>W<9J*<9;=*>::=89;*>??*;IB*aBDE=DLBF*;IBDL=aINA<=?=-J<:>?*:I>D>:;BD<A>;<=9*LB;I=FA*E=D*;BT;<?B*L=<A;8DB*L>-9>JBLB9;M*;IB*@BDF<*XCDB*AI=[A*;IB*CD=>FBA;*<LaD=HB-LB9;*:=La>DBF*;=*;IB*A;>9F>DF*H<A:=AB*XCDBU

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Figure 8. U7AA&*",5' $.2.$"3/' %A' 0"87"1' #-&.3' S' 0"87"1' #-&.3'

3*.,#2%*3'N?G'%A'#27,0.$&',%,-%!&,#F

Figure 9. U7AA&*",5'$.2.$"3/'%A'0"87"1'#-&.3'#-&.3'723.9&'NPQG'

of spunlace nonwovens.

Figure 10.'C4&*6.0'*&#"#3.,$&'%*'34&*6.0'",#70.3"%,'NTctG'%A'

spunlace and needlefelt nonwovens.

Figure 11. C4&*6.0'*&#"#3.,$&'%A'34&'6%"#3'A.)*"$'NTct*G'%A'

different viscose needlefelt nonwovens.

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120324*****!"*5*62

42

FDN<9J*:8DHB*AI=[A*>*c8<;B*F<EEBDB9;*CBI>H<=8DU*'9*;IB*@BDF<*:8DHB* ;IB*FDN<9J*aD=:BAA* <9A<FB* ;IB*XCBD*L>;D<T*:>9* CB* =CABDHBF* [<;I* >* AL>??* a?>;B>8* >;* 20* L<98;BA*[I<:I*<9F<:>;BF*;IB*F<EE8A<=9*=E*;IB*[>;BD*;=*;IB*A8DE>:B*=E*;IB*XCDB*17<J8DB*334U*.IB*]>9;B*XCDB*J<HBA*>*:=La?B-;B?N*F<EEBDB9;*a<:;8DBU*oI<?B*;IB*)

ct**H>?8B*<A*:=La>D>C?B*

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b]]'.'g%b#*`$#7*$r.'%(d'`-'%(*+$-b@'gd)*g7*@$)]'*7'+)$`b9=;IBD*<9;BDBA;<9J*>FF<;<=9>?*BEEB:;*=E*;IB*9B*XCDBA*<A*;IB*<9IBDB9;*AB?E*BT;<9J8<AI<9J*CBI>H<=8D*[I<:I*L>WBA*<;*A8<;>C?B*E=D*>aa?<:>;<=9A*[IBDB*:=9HB9;<=9>?*f>LB*DB-;>DFB9:N*<A*9=;*?BJ>??N*DBc8<DBFU.IB*#g'*Q*;IB*A=*:>??BF*#<L<;<9J*gTNJB9*'9FBT*Q*=E*;IB*@BDF<*XCDB*[>A*FB;BDL<9BF*>9F*:=La>DBF*[<;I*;IB*?<;B-D>;8DB*#g'*F>;>*=E*=;IBD* :=LLBD:<>??N* >H><?>C?B*XCDB*a=?NLBDAU*.IB*#g'*=E*;IB*@BDF<*XCDB*<A*L8:I*I<JIBD*;I>;*=;IBD*:B??8?=A<:*a=?NLBDA*?<WB*9>;<HB*,g*>9F*A;>9F>DF*@<A:=AB*17<J8DB*324U*';*BHB9*:=LBA*:?=AB*;=*[==?*[I<:I*<A*=E;B9*8ABF*<9*DBF8:BF*f>LB>C<?<;N*>aa?<:>;<=9AU*.I<A*BEEB:;*L><9?N*FBD<HBA*ED=L*;IB*>FF<;<HBA*<9:?8FBF*<9*;IB-AB*9B*XCDBA*CB<9J*>?A=* DBAa=9A<C?B* E=D* ;IB*I<JI*[>;BD*>CA=DCB9:NU

Conclusions

*g9*F<EEBDB9;*9=9[=HB9*:=9A;D8:;<=9A*L>FB*ED=L*I<JI-?N*>CA=DCB9;*AaB:<>?<;N*H<A:=AB*XCDBA*<;*[>A*AI=[9*;I>;*>9*Bc8>?*=D*CB;;BD*;B9A<?B*A;DB9J;I*=E*;IB*9=9[=HB9*:>9*CB*>:I<BHBF*>A*[IB9*8A<9J*DBJ8?>D*H<A:=AB*XCDBU*bFF<;<-=9>??N*<;*[>A*:=9XDLBFM*;I>;*;IBAB*AaB:<>?<;N*XCDBA*F=*9=;*=9?N*F<Aa?>N*I<JI*A<9J?BQXCDB*>CA=DCB9:NM*C8;*;I>;*>?A=*I<JI?N*>CA=DCB9;*9=9[=HB9*A;D8:;8DBA*:>9*CB*L>FB*=8;*=E*;IBLUb*I<JI*C8EEBD<9J*:>a>:<;N*=D*8a;>WB*=E*H>a=D=8A*>9F*?<-c8<F*A[B>;*CN*>;*;IB*A>LB*;<LB*I<JI*;IBDL>?*<9A8?>;<=9*>*:?B>D*>FH>9;>JB*=E*;IB*@BDF<*XCDB*:=La>DBF*;=*A;>9F>DF*H<A:=AB*[>A*aD=HB9*CN*A[B>;<9J*J8>DFBF*I=;a?>;B*LB>-A8DBLB9;AU*]8B*;=*;IB*>?;BDBF*[>;BD*8a;>WB*>9F*DB?B>AB*CBI>H<=8D*=E*;IB*@BDF<*XCDB*>*A;D=9JBD*>9F*?=9JBD*:==-?<9J*BEEB:;*:>9*CB*=CABDHBF*F8D<9J*A=*:>??BF*):;s*LB>-A8DBLB9;A*:=La>DBF*;=*89L=F<XBF*XCDBAU*78D;IBDL=DB*>9* >FF<;<=9>?* <9IBDB9;* AB?E* BT;<9J8<AI<9J* CBI>H<=8D*:=8?F*CB*=CABDHBFU

Acknowledgements

.IB*&'^QK==a*GD=ZB:;*K723!_"0/-(0*[>A*A8aa=D;BF*;ID=8JI*;IB*b<7*GD=ZBW;*(LC-*<9*;IB*A:=aB*=E*;IB*t&B9-;D>?BA* '99=H>;<=9AaD=JD>LL*^<;;B?A;>9F* 1&'^4\* ED=L*;IB*7BFBD>?*^<9<A;DN*=E*$:=9=L<:A*>9F*.B:I9=?=JN*=E*(BDL>9NU

References

h3i* (+QG>;B9;*%=U* k"00* 13k/24M*,I>D?BA* 7DBFBD<:W*,D=AA*>9F*$F[>DF*u=I9*+BH>9Uh2i** (+QG>;B9;*%=U*3022*13k/k4M*,I>D?BA*-B9DN*̀ ;B>D9Uh!i* (l;jBM*KUM*,IBL<BE>ABD9*9>:I*FBL*@<AW=ABHBDE>I-DB9U*!U*$FU*3/_"S*+BD?<9M*-B<FB?CBDJM*%B[*v=DW^*̀ aD<9-JBDQ@BD?>JUh6i* oU*)=JJB9A;B<9S*#B9j<9JBD*+BD<:I;B*k/*120334*"2Q""UhRi* 'U*+BD9;S*#B9j<9JBD*+BD<:I;B*k/*120334*"kQkRUh_i* ^B:IBB?AM*uU*13//34U*KlDaBD*Q*K?<L>*Q*K?B<F89JO*(D89FjYJB*FBD*+BW?B<F89JAaINA<=?=J<BU*+BD?<9O*7>:I-HBD?>J*`:I<B?B*w*`:Il9Uh"i* KU*-U*dLC>:IM*d9<HBDAB??B*+BA:IDB<C89J*FBA*.D>-JBW=LE=D;A*<9*bCIx9J<JWB<;*H=9*K?B<F89J*89F*FB9*F>D-<9* HBD[B9FB;B9*.BT;<?<B9* A=[<B* H>D<>C?B9*)>9FCBF<9-J89JB9*H=9*K?<L>*89F*bDCB<;M*b<7Q@=DI>CB9*%DU*6k2"M*3/k6

Figure 12.'?0.6.)"0"3/'2*%2&*3"&#'N:;<'<,1&DG'%A'E&*1"'

E"#$%#&'$%62.*&1'3%'%34&*'()&*'3/2&#F

!"

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120324*****!"*5*60

%78*9:;<=<>?@A<BC*,7CCDC@E7*F<A?7E*G@?*H@?I*H7B?*G@?*;J7*F@@K*L?@>7EE<:M*':KDE;?N

Edith Claßen1, Kirsten Stauche2 and Ina Sigmund3

3*-@J7:E;7<:*':E;<;D;*GO?*.7P;<C<::@QB;<@:*M(=AJR*S!"6S*+T::<MJ7<=R*(7?=B:NLJ@:7U*1V!/4*S3!"*2S3*"W2X*FBP*1V!/4*S3!"*2S3/!"W2X*$Y=B<CU*7Z>CBEE7:[J@J7:E;7<:ZK72*.JO?<:M<E>J7E*':E;<;D;*GO?*.7P;<CY*D:K*\D:E;E;@GGYF@?E>JD:M*7Z]ZR*0S!0S*)DK@CE;BK;R*(7?=B:N"*^_>JE<E>J7E*.7P;<CG@?E>JD:ME<:E;<;D;*7Z]Z*B:*K7?*.7>J:<E>J7:*`:<Q7?E<;_;*,J7=:<;aR*0/326*,J7=:<;aR*(7?=B:N.J<E*bDAC<>B;<@:*8BE*b?7E7:;7K*KD?<:M*;J7*60;J*cB:5cBK7*F<A7?*,@:G7?7:>7*2033R*d@?:A<?:R*9DE;?<BZ

Abstract

9:;<=<>?@A<BC*GD:>;<@:BC<a7K*;7P;<C7E*EJ@DCK*b?@;7>;*;J7*JD=B:E*BMB<:E;*=<>?@A<BC*<=bD?<;<7EZ*':*G@@K*b?@>7EE<:M*<:KDE;?N*D:JNM<7:<>*8@?I*>C@;J7E*>B:*A7*?7Eb@:E<AC7*G@?*;J7*;?B:EG7?*@G*<:G7>;<@:E*;@*G@@KZ*':*;J<E*b?@e7>;*;J?77*B:;<=<>?@A<BC*GD:>;<@:BC<a7K*>7CCDC@E<>*fA?7E*87?7*K7Q7C@b7K*8J<>J*>B:*DE7K*8<;J@D;*b?@AC7=E*G@?*NB?:*b?@KD>-;<@:*<:* ;J7*?<:M*Eb<::<:MZ*.J7*:78*B:;<=<>?@A<BC*>7CCDC@E7*fA?7E*87?7*b?@KD>7K*B>>@?K<:M*;@* ;J7*9#,$)`®-

b?@>7EE*AN*K@b<:M*8<;J*a<:>R*a<:>*@P<K7*@?*E<CQ7?*:<;?B;7*BE*B:;<=<>?@A<BC*EDAE;B:>7EZ*.J7*<:Q7E;<MB;<@:*@G*8@Q7:*B:K*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>E*8<;J*;J7*:78*NB?:E*EJ@8E*;JB;*;J7*gDBC<;N*<E*J<MJ*7:@DMJ*G@?*;J7*DEBM7*@G*8@?I*87B?*<:*;J7*G@@K*b?@>7EE<:M*<:KDE;?NZ*.J7*;J7?=@bJNE<@C@M<>BC*B:K*EI<:*E7:E@?<BC*>@=G@?;*@G*;J7*GBA?<>E*<E*M@@KZ*^@*;J7*:78*fA7?E*B?7*B*M@@K*BC;7?:B;<Q7*G@?*8@?I*87B?*B:K*;J7*?7EDC;E*EJ@8*;JB;*;J7*B=@D:;*@G*>7CCDC@E<>*?7M7:7?B;<Q7*fA?7E*>B:*A7*Db*;@*S0h*AN*8@Q7:*GBA?<>E*B:K*W0h*AN*I:<;;7K*fA?7E*8<;J*B*J<MJ*b?@KD>;*gDBC<;N*B:K*b?@KD>;*b7?G@?-=B:>7*G@?*8@?I*87B?Z*.J7*K7Q7C@b7K*fA?7E*B:K*GBA?<>E*>B:*A7*DE7K*G@?*C7BE<:M*GBA?<>EZ*

Keywords: !"#$%$&'()$!*+&,**-*(.$&+/)',.0+1('2+1,!'0+3(4,".#,$"+5-!*$#6+.#!"7!'7+89:;;0+1,!'+&(%;('#0+$"7-.#'$!*+*!-"7'6

Introduction

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Materials and Methods

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Results and Discussion

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Table 2. Fiber mixtures for the yarn production.

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.J7*<:>@?b@?B;<@:*@G*&:*B:K*9M*>@=b@:7:;E*EJ@DCK*M<Q7*B:*B:;<=<>?@A<BC*B>;<Q<;N*;@*;J7*GBA?<>EZ*.J7*B:-;<=<>?@A<BC*B>;<Q<;N*8BE*;7E;7K*<:*@?<M<:BC*E;B;7*B:K*BG;7?* 60* B:K* 300* 8BEJ* >N>C7E* A7>BDE7* ;J7* GBA?<>*EJ@DCK*JBQ7*;J7*B:;<=<>?@A<BC*B>;<Q<;N*@Q7?*;J7*8J@-

C7* C<G7* ;<=7Z*.J7*B:;<=<>?@A<BC*B>;<Q<;N*8BE* eDKM7K*AN*;J7*?7KD>;<@:*@G*;J7*;7E;*=<>?@*@?MB:<E=E*^;BbJN-C@>@>>DE* BD?7DE*9.,,* W6"o* B:K*\C7AE<7CCB* b:7D-

=@:<B* 9.,,* !"62* B:K* ;J7* DE7K* >CBEE<f>B;<@:* <E*EJ@8:*<:*.BAC7*"Z*

.J7*K<BM?B=*<:*F<MD?7*W*EJ@8E*;J7*?7EDC;*@G*;J7*B:;<-=<>?@A<BC*;7E;Z*9CE@*BG;7?*60*B:K*300*<:KDE;?<BC*8BEJ<:M*>N>C7E*;J7*GBA?<>E*EJ@8*E;?@:M*=<>?@A<BC*B>;<Q<;NZ

.BAC7E*!*B:K*6*EJ@8*;J7*?7EDC;E*@G*;J7*>@:G@?=<;N*;7E;*@:*;J7*>@=bC<B:>7*8<;J*;J7*-@J7:E;7<:*^;B:KB?K*S02*B:K*S0!Z*]BCD7E*8<;J*B*E;B?*=B?I7K*K@*:@;*GDCfC* ;J7*?7gD<?7=7:;EZ* F@?* GBA?<>*]2* ;J7* <@:* 7P>JB:M7?*8BE*:@;*=<CC7K* EDGf><7:;* B:K* ;J<E* <E* ;J7* ?7BE@:*8JN* ;J7*GBA?<>*]2*K@7E*:@;*GDCfC*BCC*?7gD<?7=7:;EZ*.J7*8@Q7:*GBA?<>*]2*B:K*]"*EJ@8*B*J<MJ*b<CC<:M*b?@b7:E<;NX*<:*>@:;?BE;*;J7*>@=bB?BAC7*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>*EJ@8*M@@K*b<C-C<:M*b?@b7:E<;NZ*.J7*K<GG7?7:;*A7JBQ<@D?*JBE*;@*A7*<:-

Q7E;<MB;7K*<:*GD?;J7?*b?@e7>;E*A7>BDE7*;J7*?7BE@:*@G*;J7*K<GG7?7:>7E* <E*:@;*7PbCB<:BAC7Z*.J7*Eb7><=7:E*@G* ;J7*8@Q7:*B:K*I:<;;7K*Eb7><=7:*]"*EJ@8*;J7*A7E;*?7EDC;EZ*':*>@:;?BE;*;@*;J7*Eb7><=7:*]2*;J7*<@:*7P>JB:M7?*8BE*=<CC7K*;@*B*E=BCC7?*E<a7*B:K*;J7*NB?:*b?@KD>;<@:*8BE*

Figure 4. F!'"+&'(..+.,&#$("+GH+#,I+JK%+LMN0+1(D,"+;!)'$&+

1$#4+/),'+.B,&$%,"+OGE

Figure 6. Antimicrobial activities of the woven fabric speci-

%,".+$"+('$P$"!*+.#!#,+!"7+!;#,'+Q9+!"7+:99+1!.4$"P+&6&*,.E

Figure 3.+F!'"+&'(..+.,&#$("+:M+#,I+JK%+8HR:N0+2"$##,7+

;!)'$&+1$#4+/),'+.B,&$%,"+OGE

Figure 5. Colour of the woven and knitted fabrics.

Table 3. >*!..$/&!#$("+(;+#4,+%$&'()$!*+!&#$D$#6E

47

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120324*****!"*5*60

>B??N*@D;*<:*B:*<:KDE;?<BC*b?@>7EEZ*^@*;J7*?7EDC;E*EJ@8*;JB;*;J7*;J?77*:78*B:;<=<>?@A<BC*fA?7E*Eb7><=7:E*>B:*A7*DE7K*<:*=<P;D?7E*8<;J*L$^*B:K*@?<M<:BC*?7M7:7?B;<-Q7*>7CCDC@E<>*fA?7E*G@?*8@?I*87B?*<:*8@Q7:*B:K*BCE@*<:*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>EZ*.J7*gDBC<;<7E*@G*;J7*NB?:E*<:*;J7*<:-

Q7E;<MB;7K*=<P;D?7E*B?7*M@@KZ*****

.J7*;BAC7E*W*B:K*S*EJ@8*;J7*;J7?=@bJNE<@C@M<>BC*?7-EDC;E*@G*BCC*b?@@G7K*8@Q7:*B:K*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>EZ*jD;*@G*7Pb7?<7:>7*G@?*;J7*7QBCDB;<@:*@G*;J7*;J7?=@bJNE<@C@-

M<>BC* >@=G@?;* b?@b7?;<7E* @G* 8@Q7:* GBA?<>E* G@?* 8@?I*87B?*@?*b?@;7>;<Q7*>C@;J<:M*;J7*G@CC@8<:M*>?<;7?<B*>B:*A7*BbbC<7KZ*.J7*C@87?*;J7*GBA?<>{E*8B;7?*QBb@D?*?7E<E-;B:>7*)

etR*;J7*A7;;7?*<;E*|A?7B;JBA<C<;N}Z*-@87Q7?R*8B-

;7?* QBb@D?* ?7E<E;B:>7* BE* 87CC* BE* ;J7?=BC* <:EDCB;<@:*E;?@:MCN*K7b7:K*@:*;J7*GBA?<>{E*;J<>I:7EEZ*.J<E*=7B:E*;JB;* B* J<MJ7?* ;J7?=BCCN* <:EDCB;<:M* B:KR* ;JDER* ;J<>I7?*GBA?<>*<:7Q<;BACN*b@EE7EE7E*B*J<MJ7?*BAE@CD;7*8B;7?*QB-b@D?* ?7E<E;B:>7* ;JB:* B* ;J<::7?* GBA?<>Z* .J7?7G@?7R* ;@*eDKM7*;J7*bJNE<@C@M<>BC*gDBC<;N*@G*B*GBA?<>*B*gDB:;<;N*=DE;*A7*>J@E7:*<:*8J<>J*;J7*<:iD7:>7*@G*;J7*GBA?<>{E*;J<>I:7EE* <E* 7C<=<:B;7KZ*.J<E* K7=B:K* <E*=7;* AN* ;J7*8B;7?*QBb@D?*b7?=7BA<C<;N*<:K7P*<

mtZ*';*<E*K7f:7K*Q<B*

;J7* ?B;<@* @G* ;J7?=BC* ;@*8B;7?* QBb@D?* ?7E<E;B:>7* B:KR*;JDER*7Pb?7EE7E*;J7*GBA?<>{E*?7CB;<Q7*=@<E;D?7*;?B:Eb@?;*

b?@b7?;<7EZ*.J7*bJNE<@C@M<>BC*gDBC<;N*@G*B*GBA?<>*JBE*;@*A7*eDKM7K*;J7*A7;;7?R*;J7*J<MJ7?*;J<E*<

mtYQBCD7*;D?:E*@D;*

;@* A7Z* H@Q7:* GBA?<>E* G@?* 8@?I* 87B?* @?* b?@;7>;<Q7*>C@;J<:M*EJ@DCK*b@EE7EE*B:*<

mtYQBCD7*@G*B;*C7BE;*0Z36Z*':*

B*87B?*E<;DB;<@:*8<;J*<:>?7BE7K*E87B;<:MR*<:*@?K7?*;@*I77b* ;J7* |=<>?@>C<=B;7}* :7P;* ;@* ;J7* A@KN* BE* K?N* BE*b@EE<AC7R*B*GBA?<>*=DE;*b@EE7EE*B*M@@K*ADGG7?<:M*>BbB-><;N*@G*8B;7?*QBb@D?R*7GG7>;7K*bB?;CN*AN*B*J<MJ*B:K*GBE;*8B;7?*QBb@D?*;?B:Eb@?;R*B:K*bB?;CN*AN*B*GBE;*8B;7?*QB-b@D?*BAE@?b;<@:Z*.J7*>@=A<:7K*7GG7>;*@G*;J7E7*b?@b7?-;<7E*<E*EJ@8:*AN*;J7*=@<E;D?7*?7MDCB;<@:*<:K7P*F

KZ*';*

EJ@DCK*A7*BE*J<MJ*BE*b@EE<AC7Z*LB?;<>DCB?CN*GBA?<>E*G@?*8@?I*87B?*B:K*b?@;7>;<Q7*>C@;J<:M*EJ@DCK*b@EE7EE*B:*FKYQBCD7*@G*B;*C7BE;*0Z!0Z*':*87B?*E<;DB;<@:E*>@=A<:7K*

8<;J*J7BQN*E87B;<:MR*G@?*;J7*?7EDC;<:M*87B?*>@=G@?;*@G*B*;7P;<C7*bB?;<>DCB?CN*B*J<MJ*E87B;*;?B:Eb@?;*F*<E*<=b@?-;B:;Z*.@*A7*eDKM7K*BE*|M@@K}R*8<;J*8@?I*87B?*@?*b?@-

;7>;<Q7*>C@;J<:M*;J7*FYQBCD7*B;*26y,R*60*h*?ZJZ*=DE;*A7*CB?M7?*;JB:*SW6*Mq=vJZ*.@M7;J7?*8<;J*;J7*E87B;*;?B:E-b@?;*;J7*E87B;*Db;BI7*(

2*K7;7?=<:7E*;J7*GBA?<>{E*ADG-

G7?<:M*>BbB><;N*@G*C<gD<K*E87B;R*7Pb?7EE7K*AN*;J7*ADG-G7?<:M*<:K7P*\

GZ*.J7*J<MJ7?*;J7*\

GYQBCD7R*;J7*A7;;7?*<E*

;J7*ADGG7?<:M*>BbB><;NZ*.J7*=<:<=D=*\GYQBCD7*;@*A7*

K7=B:K7K* G?@=* GBA?<>E* G@?*8@?I*87B?* @?* b?@;7>;<Q7*>C@;J<:M*<E*0ZSoZ*-@87Q7?R*G?@=*B*bJNE<@C@M<>BC*b@<:;*@G*Q<78*<;*<E*;J7*A7;;7?R*;J7*=@?7*E87B;*<E*;?B:Eb@?;7K*;J?@DMJ*;J7*GBA?<>*B:K*;J7*C7EE*=@<E;D?7*?7=B<:E*<:*;J7*;7P;<C7*:7P;* ;@* ;J7* EI<:Z* ':*@?K7?* ;JB;* <:* ?7E;*b7?<@KE*BG;7?* bJNE<>BC* B>;<Q<;NR* >@=A<:7K* 8<;J* J7BQN* E87B-;<:MR* :@* D:bC7BEB:;* B:K* D:K7?* >7?;B<:* >@:K<;<@:E*J7BC;JYKB=BM<:M*b@E;Y7P7?><E7Y>J<CC*<E*>BDE7KR*GBA?<>E*G@?*8@?I*87B?* @?* b?@;7>;<Q7* >C@;J<:M* EJ@DCK* JBQ7* B*C@8*8B;7?*?7;7:;<@:*t(Z*

9>>@?K<:M*;@*.BAC7*W*B*;J7?=BC*<:EDCB;<@:*)ct*<E*G@D:KR*

;Nb<>BC* G@?*8@Q7:* GBA?<>E*@G* ;J7* ;Nb7*@G*8@?I*87B?Z*.J7*E<P*GBA?<>*Eb7><=7:E*EJ@8*B*8B;7?*QBb@D?*?7E<E-;B:>7*)

et*A7C@8*6*=vLBqH*>@=A<:7K*8<;J*M@@K*?7CB;<-

Q7*=@<E;D?7*;?B:Eb@?;*b?@b7?;<7ER*;J7*CB;;7?*7Pb?7EE7K*AN* ;J7* <

mtYQBCD7* BA@Q7* 0Z36Z* .JDER* ;J7* GBA?<>{E*

|A?7B;JBA<C<;N}*JBE*;@*A7*eDKM7K*BE*M@@KZ*9E*<;*<E*;Nb<->BC*G@?*GBA?<>E*8<;J*B*J<MJ*>@;;@:*>@:;7:;R*;J7*EB=bC7{E*8B;7?*QBb@D?*BAE@?A7:>N*F

i*<E*J<MJZ*.@M7;J7?*8<;J*;J7*

Table 4. Results of the conformity test on the compliance

1$#4+#4,+3(4,".#,$"+S-!*$#6+C#!"7!'7+89GE

Table 5. Results of the conformity test on the compliance

1$#4+#4,+3(4,".#,$"+S-!*$#6+C#!"7!'7+89ME

Table 6. Thermophysiological data of the fabrics.

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120324*****!"*5*60

48

=@<E;D?7*?7MDCB;<@:*<:K7P*FK*CB?M7?*;JB:*0Z!0*1E77*.B-

AC7*S4*;J<E*<:K<>B;7E*B*M@@K*ADGG7?<:M*>BbB><;N*@G*8B;7?*QBb@D?*@G*;J7*GBA?<>*;7E;7KZ*.J7*8@Q7:*GBA?<>E*EJ@8*B:* FYQBCD7* E<M:<f>B:;CN* BA@Q7* o30* Mq=vJ* B:K* ;J7*GBA?<>{E*C<gD<K*E87B;*;?B:Eb@?;*<E*Q7?N*M@@KZ*':*>@:;-?BE;*;J7*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>*]3c*B:K*]2c*EJ@8*B:*FYQBCD7*BA@Q7*W/6*Mq=vJ*B:K*;J7*GBA?<>{E*C<gD<K*E87B;*;?B:E-b@?;*<E*EDGf><7:;Z*j:CN*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>*]2c*EJ@8E*B:*<:EDGf><7:;*FYQBCD7*8<;J*WSS*Mq=vJZ*.J7*GBA?<>{E*ADG-G7?<:M* >BbB><;N* @G* C<gD<K* E87B;* @G* ;J7*8@Q7:* GBA?<>*]3(*JBE*;@*A7*?B;7K*BE*Q7?N*M@@K*B:K*@G*;J7*;8@*@;J7?*8@Q7:*GBA?<>E*]2(*B:K*]"(*@:CN*BE*M@@KZ*9CC*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>E*EJ@8*B*Q7?N*M@@K*ADGG7?<:M*>BbB><;N*@G*C<gD<K*E87B;Z*.J7*QBCD7E*@G*;J7*8B;7?*?7;7:;<@:*t(*EJ@8:*<:*.BAC7* S* B?7* J<MJ7?* G@?* ;J7* I:<;;7K* GBA?<>E* BE* G@?* ;J7*8@Q7:* GBA?<>EZ*.J7*K?N<:M* ;<=7*@G* ;J7* ;J?77* I:<;;7K*GBA?<>E*8BE*BCE@*K7;7?=<:7K*B:K*8<;J*!2*=<:*;J7*K?N-

<:M*;<=7*@G*;J7*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>*<E*C@:MZ**.J7*K?N<:M*;<=7*t;*EJ@DCK*A7*A7C@8*;J7*>?<;<>BC*QBCD7*@G*"S*=<:*<:K<->B;7EZ*.J7*I<;;7K*GBA?<>E*]2c*B:K*]"c*EJ@8*B*K?N<:M*;<=7*@G*"W*=<:*B:K*;J7N*B?7*A7C@8*;J7*>?<;<>BC*QBCD7Z*':*b?B>;<>BC*DE7*;J7*;8@*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>E*8<CC*:@;*>BDE7*B*b@E;Y7P7?><E7Y>J<CCZ

.J7*.BAC7*o*EJ@8*;J7*?7EDC;E*@G*;J7*EI<:*E7:E@?<BC*<:-

Q7E;<MB;<@:EZ*jD;* @G* 7Pb7?<7:>7* G@?* ;J7* 7QBCDB;<@:*@G* ;J7* E7:E@?<BC*>@=G@?;*b?@b7?;<7E*@G*8@Q7:*GBA?<>E* G@?*@?*b?@;7>;<Q7*>C@;J<:M* ;J7* G@CC@8<:M* >?<;7?<B* >B:* A7* BbbC<7KZ* F@?* B*M@@K*E7:E@?<BC*>@=G@?;R*;J7*87;*>C<:M*<:K7P*<

K*@G*B*GBA-

?<>*8@?:*<:*>@:;B>;*8<;J*;J7*EI<:*=DE;*A7*E=BCC7?*;JB:*36Z*j;J7?8<E7*B:*D:bC7BEB:;*>C<:M<:M*@G* ;J7* GBA?<>* ;@*

EI<:*87;;7K*AN*E87B;*<E*;@*A7*7Pb7>;7KZ*.J7*ED?GB>7*<:-K7P* <

@*@G*B*8@Q7:*GBA?<>* G@?*8@?I*87B?*@?*b?@;7>;<Q7*

>C@;J<:M*=DE;*C<7*A7;877:*"*B:K*36*<:*@?K7?*:@;*;@*A7*G7C;*BE*;@@*E=@@;J*@:*;J7*@:7*JB:K*@?*;@@*?@DMJqE>?B;>JN*@:*;J7*@;J7?Z*H<;J*?7MB?K*;@*M@@K*E7:E@?<BC*>@=G@?;*;J7*:D=A7?*@G* >@:;B>;*b@<:;E*A7;877:* GBA?<>*B:K* EI<:*:

K

EJ@DCK*A7*C7EE*;JB:*3600R*B:K*;J7*8@Q7:*GBA?<>{E*E;<GG-:7EE*E*EJ@DCK*C<7*A7C@8*W0Z*jD;*@G*7Pb7?<7:>7*;J7*E@?b-;<@:*<:K7P*<

B*EJ@DCK*:@;*A7*J<MJ7?*;JB:*2S0R*A7>BDE7*B*

GBA?<>{E*E7:E@?<BC*>@=G@?;*<E*:@;*@:CN*K7;7?=<:7K*AN*<;E*bJNE<>BC*ED?GB>7*E;?D>;D?7R*AD;*BCE@*AN*<;E*BA<C<;N*;@*I77b*;J7*87B?7?{E*EI<:*K?NZ*d?N*EI<:R*:B=7CNR*<E*C7EE*E7:E<;<Q7*;@*=7>JB:<>BC*<??<;B;<@:ER*>BDE<:M*B*EDAe7>;<Q7CN*D:bC7-BEB:;*E7:EB;<@:R*;JB:*=@<E;*EI<:Z*.J<E*<E*;J7*?7BE@:*8JN*<:*;J7*b?7K<>;<Q7*G@?=DCB*G@?*;J7*E7:E@?<BC*>@=G@?;*Q@;7*H,

S*BCE@*;J7*=@<E;D?7*b7?=7BA<C<;N*<:K7P*<

mt*<E*<:>CD-

K7KZ*.BAC7*o*EJ@8E*;JB;*;J7*GBA?<>{E*87;*>C<:M*<:K7P*<K

BE*87CC* BE* <;E* E;<GG:7EE* E* C<7*87CC*8<;J<:* ;J7* E7:E@?<BC*:7D;?BC*?7M<@:EZ*.J7*E@?b;<@:*<:K7P*<

B*@G*BCC*GBA?<>*Eb7-

><=7:E* >@:f?=E* ;J7*^I<:*c@K7C* ;7E;* ?7EDC;E* @G* M@@K*C<gD<K* E87B;* ;?B:Eb@?;Z*.J7* ED?GB>7* <:K7P* <

O* @G* GBA?<>*

Eb7><=7:*]3(*<E*CN<:M*A7C@8*"Z0*B:K*;JB;*<:K<>B;7E*;JB;*;J7*GBA?<>*8<CC*A7*b7?>7<Q7K*BE*E@=7*8JB;*;@@*E=@@;J*@:*;J7*EI<:Z*9CE@*8<;J*;J7*:D=A7?*@G*>@:;B>;*b@<:;E*:

K

E<M:<f>B:;CN*BA@Q7*3600*<;*;7:KE*;@*A7*G7C;*BE*>CB==N*@:*;J7*EI<:*8J7:*;J7*87B?7?*<E*E87B;<:M*=@?7*J7BQ<CNZ*9CC*@;J7?*fQ7*GBA?<>*Eb7><=7:E*EJ@8*B*ED?GB>7*<:K7P*<:*;J7*:7D;?BC*?7M<@:*B:K*BCE@*;J7*:D=A7?*@G*>@:;B>;*b@<:;E*<E*D:K7?*3600*G@?*7B>J*GBA?<>*Eb7><=7:EZ

.BAC7*/*B:K*;J7*F<MD?7E*SR*o*B:K*/*EJ@8*;J7*?7EDC;E*@G*;J7*>BC>DCB;<@:*@G*;J7*EI<:*E7:E@?<BC*>@=G@?;*Q@;7R*;J7*;J7?=@-bJNE<@C@M<>BC*>@=G@?;*Q@;7*B:K*;J7*>@=G@?;*Q@;7*@G*;J7*E<P*;7E;7K*Eb7><=7:EZ*^D==B?<a<:M*;J7*bJNE<@C@M<>BC*b?@b7?;<7E*@G*;J7*GBA-

?<>*;7E;7KR*BE*K<E>DEE7K*BA@Q7R*B>>@?K<:M*;@*.BAC7*/*G@?*;J7*E<P*GBA?<>*Eb7><=7:E*B*;J7?=@bJNE<@C@M<>BC*>@=-

G@?;* Q@;7* H,T* A7;877:* 3ZS* B:K* 2Z6* 1<:* BCC* >BE7E*

}M@@K|4* ?7EDC;EZ*F@?* ;J7* E7:E@?<BC*>@=G@?;* ;J7*H,S-

Q@;7* K<GG7?E* G?@=* 3Z!* ;@* 2Z0* 1A7;877:* }M@@K|* B:K*}Q7?N*M@@K}4Z

Table 7. Thermophysiological data of the fabrics.

Table 8. Skin sensorial data of the fabrics.

Table 9. Skin sensorial comfort vote, thermophysiological

comfort vote and comfort of the tested fabrics.

49

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120324*****!"*5*60

.J7*;@;BC*87B?*>@=G@?;R*<:>CDK<:M*;J7*GBA?<>{E*;J7?=@-bJNE<@C@M<>BC*B:K*EI<:*E7:E@?<BC*b?@b7?;<7ER*ABE7K*@:*;J7*H,YQ@;7*A7;877:*3ZS*BK*2Z"*@G*;J7*E<P*Eb7><=7:E*Q7?ABCCN*JBE*;@*A7*?B;7K*BE*M@@KZ*d<GG7?7:>7E*A7;877:*GBA?<>E*<:*;J7*H,YQ@;7*@G*0Z6*@?*=@?7*B?7*?7M<E;7?7K*EDAe7>;<Q7CN*AN*;J7*87B?7?Z*^@*;J7*?7EDC;E*EJ@8*Q7?N*E=BCC*K<GG7?7:>7E*B:K*;J7*gDBC<;N*<E*Q7?N*E<=<CB?*A7;-877:*;J7*E<P*GBA?<>*Eb7><=7:EZ*.J7*?7EDC;E*EJ@8*;JB;*;J7*>@=G@?;*Q@;7*K7b7:KE*@:* ;J7*>@:E;?D>;<@:*@G* ;J7*GBA?<>E*B:K*;JB;*<;*<E*:7>7EEB?N*;@*b?@@G*;J7*8@Q7:*B:K*I:<;;7K* GBA?<>*A7>BDE7* ;J7*gDBC<;N*>B:*A7*K<GG7?Z*.J7*K<GG7?7:;*K@b<:M*@G* ;J7*fA?7E*K@7E:~;* C7BK*;@*E<M:<f-

>B:;* K<GG7?7:>7E* A7;877:* ;J7* >@=G@?;* Q@;7* @G* ;J7* "*fA?7*Eb7><=7:EZ*

Conclusions

.J7*B<=*@G*;J7*b?@e7>;*8BE*;J7*K7Q7C@b=7:;*@G*B*8@?I*87B?* G@?* ;J7* G@@K* b?@>7EE<:M* <:KDE;?N* >@:E<E;<:M* @G*B:;<=<>?@A<BC*?7M7:7?B;7K*>7CCDC@E<>*fA?7E*8J<>J*B?7*ED<;BAC7*G@?*C7BE<:MZ*F@?*;J7*B:;<=<>?@A<BC*GD:>;<@:*;J7*>7CCDC@E<>*fA?7E*87?7*ED>>7EEGDCCN*K@b7K*8<;J*K<GG7-?7:;* B:;<=<>?@A<BC* EDAE;B:>7EZ*.J7*K@b<:M*8<;J* a<:>*>@=b@:7:;E*C7BKE*;@*8J<;7*fA?7EZ*.J7*<:;7M?B;<@:*@G*B:*<@:*7P>JB:M7?*B:K*^<CQ7?*>@=b@:7:;E*C7BKE*;@*fA-

?7E*8<;J*B* C<MJ;* B*N7CC@8*>@C@?Z*.J7* E<a7*@G* ;J7* <@:Y7P>JB:M7?*JBE*B*CB?M7*<:iD7:>7*@G*;J7*fA7?*b?@b7?;<7E*B:K* ;J7* ?7EDC;E* EJ@8* ;JB;* ;J7* <@:* 7P>JB:M7?* JBE* ;@* A7*=<CC7K* ;@* B* E<a7* E=BCC7?* ;JB:* 30* l=Z* .J7* NB?:* b?@KD>;<@:*<:*=<P;D?7E*@G*L$^*B:K*D:;?7B;7K*>7CCDC@-E<>* fA?7E* <E* b@EE<AC7* B:K* C7BKE* ;@* NB?:* 8<;J* M@@K* b?@b7?;<7EZ* ':* ;J<E* b?@e7>;* ;J7* =<P;D?7* ?B;7* 8BE*W0,]q"0L$^q30,]K@b7K* G@?* I:<;;7K* GBA?<>E* B:K*60,]q!0L$^q30,]K@b7K* G@?* 8@Q7:* GBA?<>EZ* .J7*;J?77*B:;<=<>?@A<BC*fA?7E*>B:*A7*DE7K*8<;J*@;J7?*fA7?E*<:*=<P;D?7E*B:K*G@?*NB?:*8<;J@D;*B:N*b?@AC7=E*<:*;J7*NB?:*b?@KD>;<@:Z*9;*C7BE;*;J7*gDBC<;<7E*@G*I:<;;7K*B:K*8@Q7:* GBA?<>E* B?7* K7;7?=<:7K* B:K* <;* <E* b@EE<AC7* ;@*87BQ7*B:K*I:<;*GBA?<>E*8<;J*B*M@@K*gDBC<;NZ*9CE@*;J7*;J7?=@bJNE<@C@M<>BC*>@=G@?;*B:K* ;J7*E7:E@?<BC*>@=-

G@?;*>B:*A7*eDKM7K*BE*M@@KZ*̂ @*<;*<E*b@EE<AC7*;@*b?@KD>7*B*M@@K*gDBC<;N*@G*8@Q7:*B:K*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>*8J<>J*>B:*A7*DE7K*G@?*8@?I*87B?*<:*;J7*G@@K*b?@>7EE<:M*<:KDE;?NZ*9CE@*;J7*J<MJ*B=@D:;*@G*S0h*>7CCDC@E<>*fA?7E*1W0h*D:;?7B;7K*B:K*30h*;?7B;7K*>7CCDC@E<>*fA?7E4*<:*I:<;;7K*GBA?<>E*B:K*;J7*B=@D:;*@G*W0h*160h*D:;?7B;7K*B:K*30*;?7B;7K*>7CCDC@E<>*fA?7E4* C7BK* ;@*B*8@?I*87B?*8<;J*B*J<MJ*C7BE<:M*b7?G@?=B:>7Z*

Acknowledgements

.J7*9<FYL?@e7>;*3W0"/*+(*8BE*EDbb@?;7K*;J?@DMJ*;J7*F@?E>JD:MEQ7?7<:<MD:M*F@?E>JD:MEID?B;@?<D=*.7P;<C*7Z]ZR*)7<:JB?KE;?Bu7*32Y3!R*3033S*+7?C<:R*AN*;J7*9<F*8<;J<:*;J7*b?@M?B=*@G*GD:K<:M*@G*;J7*<:KDE;?<7CC7:*(7-=7<:E>JBG;EG@?E>JD:M*D:K*$:;8<>ICD:M*1'(F4*AN*;J7*+D:K7E=<:<E;7?@<D=*GO?*H<?;E>JBG;*D:K*.7>J:@C@M<7*KD7*;@*B*?7E@CD;<@:*@G*;J7*d7D;E>J7:*+D:K7E;BMZ

Figure 7. Comparison of the thermophysiological vote of

the woven and knitted fabrics.

Figure 8. Comparison of the skin sensorial vote of the

woven and knitted fabrics.

Figure 9. Comparison of the comfort vote of the woven and

knitted fabrics.

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120324*****!"*5*60

50

References

m3n* d'%*$%*'^j*36S/SR*200!Y0WX*.7P;<C<7:Y':KDE;?<-7CC7*HBE>JY*D:K*F<:<EJQ7?GBJ?7:*aD?*L?OGD:M*Q@:*9?-A7<;EIC7<KD:M* 1'^j* 36S/SU20024X* d7D;E>J7* FBEED:M*$%*'^j*36S/SU200!m2n* d'%*$%*'^j*20S!"*200SY30X*.7P;<C<7:Y+7E;<=-

=D:M* K7?* B:;<=<I?@A<7CC7:* H<?ID:M* B:;<=<I?@A<7CC*A7JB:K7C;7?*$?a7DM:<EE7Y30Z3*9AE@?b;<@:EQ7?GBJ?7:m"n* -B:KAD>J* �-@J7:E;7<:7?* pDBC<;_;EE;B:KB?K*S03GG}R*^;B:K*�DC<*200oR*-@J7:E;7<:*':E;<;D;7m!n* -@J7:E;7<:7?*pDBC<;_;EE;B:KB?K*S02*9?A7<;EIC7<-KD:MR*^;B:K*200oR*-@J7:E;7<:*':E;<;D;7m6n* -@J7:E;7<:7?* pDBC<;_;EE;B:K?BK* S0!* L@C@E* B:K*^J<?;ER*^;B:K*200oR*-@J7:E;7<:*':E;<;D;7mWn* ,CBu7:*$ZR*^;BD>J7*\ZR*^<=D:M*'X*9AE>JCDEEA7-?<>J;*K7E* '(FY]7?JBA7:*3W0"/+(R*�$:;8<>ICD:M*7<-:7?*C7BE<:M;BDMC<>J7:*9?A7<;EIC7<KD:M*BDE*B:;<=<I?@-

A<7CC7:* ,7CCDC@E7Y)7M7:7?B;GBE7?:* GO?* #7A7:E=<;;7CY A7;?<7A7}R*�D:<*2033R*-@J7:E;7<:*':E;<;D;*GO?*.7P;<C<:-:@QB;<@:*M(=A-

!"

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120"23*****!"*4*!5

67894:;<=*->?@4A>B>C>D>E;*FG94FG=<* ,<DD8DHB>IB

Ksenija Varga, Gert Kroner and Peter Wessely

#<9J>9?*K(L*M<NOBENGP<*2L*QRS0*#<9J>9?L*K8BEN>GT@H9<U*1VQ53*WSW2*W0"X2W!WY*ZG[U*1VQ53*WSW2*/"RX2W!WY*<\G>DU*O]^GN?G_D<9J>9?]IH\.@>B*78CD>IGE>H9*`GB*7N<B<9E<=*=8N>9?*E@<*!0E@*FG94FG=<*Z>C<N*,H9a<N<9I<*20""L*:HN9C>N9L*K8BEN>G]

Abstract

ZD8HN<BI<9E*I<DD8DHB<*a>C<NB*aHN*8B<*>9*N<aD<IE>^<*BGa<E;*IDHE@>9?*@G^<*C<<9*=<^<DH7<=*G9=*E@<*7GE<9E*@GB*C<<9*a>D<=]*.@<*=<^<DH7<=*\G94\G=<*aD8HN<BI<9E*I<DD8DHB>IB*IG9*B>\8DEG9<H8BD;*C<*aDG\<*N<B>BEG9E]*b9D>O<*<[>BE>9?*aD8HN<BI<9E*a>C<NBL*`@>I@*GN<*E;7>IGDD;*\G=<*aNH\*B;9E@<E>IB*B8I@*GB*7HD;<BE<NL*E@<*I<DD8DHB<*E<[-

E>D<B*GN<*IH\aHNEGCD<*EH*`<GNL*D<BB*7NH9<*EH*E@<*=<^<DH7\<9E*Ha*H=HNB*G9=*D<BB*B8BI<7E>CD<*EH*E@<*=<^<DH7-

\<9E*Ha*<D<IENHBEGE>I*I@GN?<BL*`@>I@*IG9*C<*=G9?<NH8BL*D<G=>9?*EH*<[7DHB>H9B*>9*I<NEG>9*<9^>NH9\<9EB]*.@<*;<DDH`*aD8HN<BI<9E*\G94\G=<*a>C<NB*BGE>Ba;*E@<*D>?@E4aGBE9<BB*N<c8>N<\<9EB*Ha*>9E<N9GE>H9GD*BEG9=GN=B*G9=*`@HB<*IHDHNGE>H9B*GN<*9HE*B>?9>a>IG9ED;*CD<GI@<=*C;*<[7HB8N<*EH*NG=>GE>H9*Ha*[<9H94DG\7B]*.@<;*GDBH*a8D-a>DD* E@<*BEG9=GN=*N<c8>N<\<9EB*aHN* D>?@E*=<9B>E;*aGIEHNL*IHDHN4B7GI<*G9=*N8C*aGBE9<BB*1CHE@L*=N;*G9=*`<E3]*.@<*7HB>E>^<*N<B8DEB*IG9*C<*GI@><^<=*C;*IHNN<IE*>9IHN7HNGE>H9*Ha*^GN>H8B*IHDHN*G9=*aD8HN<BI<9E*7>?\<9EB*>9EH*B7>99>9?*=H7<*=8N>9?*E@<*a>C<N*7NHI<BB>9?]**

Keywords: !"#!$%"&"'"(")*+,'-.&/+0-12"1#+34®, protective textiles.

Introduction

'9*E@<*DGBE*=<IG=<*G9=*<B7<I>GDD;*9H`4G4=G;B*E@<*=<-^<DH7\<9EB* >9* E@<*B<?\<9E*Ha* E@<*dC<NB*G9=* E<[E>D<B*7G;*@8?<*GEE<9E>H9*EH*E@<*BGa<E;*G9=*7NHE<IE>^<*dC<NBL*aGCN>IB* G9=* IDHE@>9?]* .@<* eG\<4N<B>BEG9E* 7NHE<IE>^<*\GE<N>GDB*@G^<*EH*C<*BEGCD<*GE*@>?@4E<\7<NGE8N<BL*G9=*H9*E@<*HE@<N*@G9=*<9GCD<*IH\aHNE*>9*`<GN*EH*7N<^<9E*E@<*@<GE*BEN<BB*Ha*E@<*`HNO<NB]*.H*a8DdDD*GDD*E@<>N*N<c8>-N<\<9EBL* G* IH\C>9GE>H9* Ha* @;?NHBIH7>IL* 9GE8NGD* G9=*B;9E@<E>I*dC<NB*?>^<B*G*7NH7<N*BHD8E>H9]*.@<*B;9E@<E>I*dC<NB*?>^<*7<NaHN\G9I<*G9=*9GE8NGDL*@;?NHBIH7>I*d-

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=GN=B* GN<* B7<I>dI* aHN* <GI@* IH89EN;* HN* IH9E>9<9E]* '9*?<9<NGDL* E@<N<*GN<* E`H*\G>9*G77D>IGE>H9*B<?\<9EB*Ha*@>?@4^>B>C>D>E;*IDHE@>9?U*E@<*IDHE@>9?*aHN*7NHa<BB>H9GD* 8B<*G9=*aHN*9H947NHa<BB>H9GD*8B<*1B7HNEB`<GNL*aHN*<[-

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#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120"23*****!"*4*!5

52

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visibility Lenzing FR®*dC<NB]*

Materials and Methods

FK.$)'K#6ZHN* E@<* a>C<N* B7>99>9?L* E@<* aD8HN<BI<9E* 7>?\<9EB*`<N<*B877D><=*aNH\*IH\7G9;*6`G=G]*#89GN*m<DDH`*2WL*).6*6<N><L*7GNE>ID<*B>J<*54Q*n\*7>?\<9EB*`<N<*8B<=]*.@<*G77D><=*IHDHN*7>?\<9E*aHN*E@<*;<DDH`*a>-C<NB*`GB*G*CD<9=*Ha*^GN>H8B*IH\7H9<9EB*b9>B7<NB<*m<DDH`*G9=*Kc8GN>9<;<DDH`]*.@<*IHDHN*7>?\<9E*>B*9<I<BBGN;*aHN*GI@><^>9?*@>?@*D>?@E4aGBE9<BB]*ZD8H-

N<BI<9E*7>?\<9E*>B*9<I<BBGN;*EH*GI@><^<*@>?@*D8\>-9G9I<]*KB*Z)4G?<9EL*G==>E>^<*CGB<=*H9*7@HB7@HNiB8Da8N*>B*8B<=]*.@<*<[GIE*IH\7HB>E>H9*Ha*E@<*IH\-

7H9<9EB*>9*E@<*a>C<NB*`GB*9HE*?>^<9*=8<*EH*E@<*B<I-N<I;*N<GBH9B]

F$.-h:6Fiber development

.@<* a>C<N* B7>99>9?*`GB* 7<NaHN\<=*H9* B\GDD* BIGD<*^>BIHB<*7DG9E*>9*#<9J>9?*K(*)o:*=<7GNE\<9E]*.@<*a>C<NB*>9*^GN>H8B*a>9<BB<B*`<N<*=<^<DH7<=*aHN*=>aa<-N<9E* G77D>IGE>H9* GN<GB]* .@>99<N* a>C<NB* GN<* aHN* <[-

G\7D<L* \HN<* B8>EGCD<* aHN* .4B@>NEB* G9=* D>?@E<N*IDHE@>9?* 1@>?@4^>B>C>D>E;* IDHE@>9?* aHN* 9H947NHa<B-B>H9GD*8B<3L*G9=*E@>IO<N*a>C<NB*GN<*\HN<*B8>EGCD<*aHN*E@<*CD<9=B*`>E@*B;9E@<E>I*a>C<NB*G9=*`HHDL*C<IG8B<*E@<*CD<9=>9?*7GNE9<NB*GN<*7HD;<BE<N*1p2*=E<[3L*\H=-

GIN;D>I* 1p2* =E<[3* HN*`HHD* 1CNHG=<N* NG9?<* Ha* a>C<N*a>9<9<BB3*a>C<NB]*

Color coordinates and luminance factor

.@<B<*\<GB8N<\<9EB*`<N<*7<NaHN\<=*GE*E@<*K8BEN>G9*'9BE>E8E<* aHN*$IHDH?;L*.<I@9HDH?;*G9=* '99H^GE>H9* >9*A><99G*GIIHN=>9?*EH*BEG9=GN=*$%*'6h*QW"]*.@<*<[7H-B>E>H9*E>\<*`GB*=<E<N\>9<=*GIIHN=>9?*EH*BEG9=GN=*$%*'6h* "0!4+02]* $[7HB8N<* B@H8D=* IH9E>98<* 89E>D* E@<*CD8<*BIGD<*IH9ENHD*BEG9=GN=*98\C<N*Q*@GB*I@G9?<=*EH*BE<7*Q*Ha*E@<*?N<;*BIGD<]*.@<*E<BE<N*F>9HDEG*,F4!0RI*`GB*8B<=*`>E@*GNE>dI>GD*=G;D>?@E]*.@<*D8\>9G9I<*aGI-EHN*`GB*=<E<N\>9<=*C;*8B>9?*G*Q!q*\<GB8N<\<9E*?<H-

\<EN;]*

Testing of fastness properties

.@<*aGBE9<BB*7NH7<NE><B*`<N<*\<GB8N<=*GIIHN=>9?*EHU*'6h*"0!4+02*1BEG9=GN=*aHN*D>?@E*aGBE9<BB3Y*'6h*"0!4K02* 1BEG9=GN=* aHN* DG89=<N>9?L* S0q,3Y* '6h*"0!4K02*1BEG9=GN=* aHN* N8C* aGBE9<BBL* =N;* G9=* `<E3Y* '6h* $0Q*1B`<GE*aGBE9<BBL*GI>=*G9=*GDOGD>3*G9=*@>?@4E<\7<NGE8N<*7HD;<BE<N*H^<N4=;>9?*1"50q,*aHN*Q!*\>93]*

5"&67("&7)"81+89+!"#!$%"&"'"(")*+,'-.&+

ZHN*E@<*6$F*\>INH?NG7@BL*E@<*BG\7D<B*`<N<*K84IHG-E<=*aHN*S0*B]*K*->EGI@>*64Q00*6$F*`GB*8B<=*`>E@*G9*GII<D<NGE>9?*^HDEG?<*Ha*E@<*<D<IENH9*C<G\*Ha*!*OA]*

Results and Discussion

.@<*c8GD>E;*Ha*E@<*=<^<DH7<=*dC<NB*>B*7N>\GN>D;*\<G-B8N<=*C;*E@<*IHDHN*7NH7<NE><B*GaE<N*l<9HE<BE*<[7HB8N<]*67<I>GD*B<9B>E>^<*7NH7<NE;*>B* E@<*D8\>9G9I<*aGIEHN]*K*@>?@*D8\>9G9I<*aGIEHN*IG9*C<*GI@><^<=*C;*8B>9?*G*@>?@*IH9E<9E*Ha*E@<*e8HN<BI<9E*7>?\<9EB]*ZHN*;<DDH`*IHDHNL*E@<*D8\>9G9I<*aGIEHN*GaE<N*l<9HE<BE*<[7HB8N<*@GB*EH*C<*\>9]*0]WS]*'E*>B*=>\<9B>H9D<BB*89>E*G9=*>E*N<7N<B<9E*E@<*G\H89E*Ha*N<e<IE<=*D>?@E*aHN\*E@<*\GE<N>GDB]*.@<*N<-B8DEB* B@H`* E@GE* E@<* 7NH7<N* IH\C>9GE>H9* Ha* E@<* 7>?-

\<9EBL*E@<*BEG9=GN=*$%*Q"W*G9=*GDBH*$%*""!0*IG9*C<*a8DdDD<=]*.@<*D8\>9G9I<*aGIEHN*Ha*;<DDH`*@>?@4^>B>C>-D>E;*#<9J>9?*Z)®*>B*0]/R*C<aHN<*<[7HB8N<*G9=*0]R"*Ga-E<N*l<9HE<BE* <[7HB8N<]*lm4IHDHN* IHHN=>9GE<B*\GEI@*`>E@*BEG9=GN=]*

Figure 1. High–visibility clothing for professional and non–professional use.

!5

#$%&'%($)*+$)',-.$*/0*120"23*****!"*4*!5

K==>E>H9GDD;*EH*E@<*IHDHN*7NH7<NE><B*GaE<N*l<9HE<BE*<[-

7HB8N<L* E@<* aGBE9<BB* 7NH7<NE><B* Ha* E@<* dC<NB* >9* E@<>N*8BG?<*GN<*Ha*E@<*C>?*>\7HNEG9I<]*.@<*N<B8DEB*>9*E@<*.G-CD<*2*B@H`*E@GE*E@<*;<DDH`*@>?@4^>B*#<9J>9?*Z)®*d-

C<NB*IHNN<DGE<*`>E@*E@<*N<c8>N<\<9EB*>9*E@<*BEG9=GN=B]*

.@<*6$F*\>INH?NG7@B* >9* E`H*\G?9>dIGE>H9B*1Z>?8N<*23* B@H`* ^<N;* @H\H?<9H8B* =>BEN>C8E>H9* Ha* E@<* 7>?-

\<9EB*H9*E@<*`@HD<*dC<N*D<9?E@]*

Conclusions

.@>B* 78CD>IGE>H9* @>?@D>?@EB* E@<* 7NH7<NE><B* Ha* dC<NB*9<`D;* =<^<DH7<=* C;* E@<* '99H^GE>H9* :<7GNE\<9E* Ha*#<9J>9?* K(U* @>?@4^>B>C>D>E;* #<9J>9?* Z)®* dC<NB]*-<N<L* >9* E@>B* 78CD>IGE>H9L* E@<* aHI8B* `GB* 7DGI<=* H9*@>?@4^>B>C>D>E;*;<DDH`*#<9J>9?*Z)®*dC<NB]*M>E@*G*B8>EGCD<*IH\C>9GE>H9*Ha*IHDHN*G9=*e8HN<BI<9E*7>?\<9EB*@>?@4c8GD>E;*dC<NB*IG9*C<*7NH=8I<=]*.@<B<*@>?@4^>B>C>D>E;*dC<NB*a8DdDD*E@<*BEN>IE*N<c8>N<\<9EB*=<-d9<=*>9*>9E<N9GE>H9GD*BEG9=GN=B*`>E@*N<B7<IE*EH*IHDHN*IHHN=>9GE<B*G9=* D8\>9G9I<* aGIEHN* GaE<N*l<9HE<BE* <[-

7HB8N<L*N8C*1=N;*G9=*`<E3*G9=*`GB@*aGBE9<BB]*+<B>=<B*E@<* @>?@4^>B>C>D>E;* N<c8>N<\<9EBL* E@<* dC<NB* <9GCD<*?HH=*\H>BE8N<*BHN7E>H9*G9=*7NH^>=<*IH\aHNEGCD<*`<GN*=8N>9?* E@<*8BG?<*Ha*7NHE<IE>^<* IDHE@>9?]*+<B>=<B* E@<*=<^<DH7\<9E*Ha*E@<*;<DDH`*e8HN<BI<9E*dC<NBL*#<9J>9?*GDBH*`HNOB*H9*E@<*=<^<DH7\<9E*Ha*HNG9?<*@>?@4^>B>C>-D>E;*dC<NB*aHN*7NHE<IE>^<*`<GN]*

Acknowledgements

.@<* G8E@HNB* ?NGE<a8DD;* GIO9H`D<=?<* EH* FN]* rH@G99*-<N\G99*G9=*@>B*E<G\*aHN*B\GDD*BIGD<*dC<N*=<^<DH7-

\<9E*G9=*EH*FN]*bDa*FGE@<BL*FN]*KD<[G9=<N*(BE<EE9<N*G9=*FN]* +<N9=E*stDD* aHN* E@<>N* 7NH=8IE* =<^<DH7\<9E*B877HNE*G9=*EH*FB]*6G9=NG*6I@DG=<N*aHN*6$F*\>INH-

?NG7@B]*

References

f"g* AGN?G*s]L*%H>BE<N9>?*F]Z]L*(N><BB<N*b]r]L*KDuGJ*#]*G9=*sHI@*.]U*.@<N\GD*G9=*6HN7E>H9*6E8=;*Ha*eG-\<4N<B>BEG9E*dC<NBL*#<9J>9?<N*+<N>I@E<*R/*120""3L*77]*!04!/]*f2g* AGN?G*s]L*sNH9<N*(]L*M<BB<D;*T]*G9=*Fv99<N*r]U*ZD8HN<BI<9E* dC<NB* G9=* E@<>N* bB<L* TGE<9E*Mhi20"2i0"2R"5L*20"2]*f5g* ZD8HN<BI<9E*N<?<9<NGE<=*I<DD8DHB<*aHN*BGa<E;*G9=*7NHE<IE>H9*G77D>IGE>H9BL*'9*K=^G9I<B*>9*.<[E>D<*.<I@-9HDH?;L*FGNI@*20"2L*w*'9E<N9GE>H9GD*%<`BD<EE<NB*#E=L*bs]*fQg* :'%*$%* '6h*""!0*A>B>C>D>E;* IDHE@>9?* aHN*9H947NHa<BB>H9GD*8B<L*Z<CN8GN;*"///]*f!g* $%*'6h*QW"*A>B>C>D>E;*IDHE@>9?*aHN*7NHa<BB>H9GD*8B<]*fSg* ,K%* i* ,6K* &/S402* 6EG9=GN=* ->?@4A>B>C>D>E;*6Ga<E;*K77GN<D]*fWg* (8>=<D>9<*H9*B<D<IE>H9L*8B<L*G9=*IGN<*Ha*@>?@4^>-B>C>D>E;*BGa<E;*G77GN<DL*,G9G=>G9*6EG9=GN=*KBBHI>GE>-H9L*&/S]"40RL*Z<CN8GN;*200R]

Table 2. 37&)1-&&+:.8:-.)"-&+89+0-12"1#+34® high–visibility

*-((8;+,'-.&<

Figure 2. SEM micrographs of yellow high–visibility

0-12"1#+34®.

Table 1. Color properties before and after Xenon exposure.

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(36

54

!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(:8(B=C7@DE(FG8HB:=8?@("*IJD=@GB:=8(A=K(BL7(:8DB:BGB:=8?@(B=C7@(M?KN7B

Denitza Ivanoff, Mohammad Abu-Rous, Clemens Bisjak and Susanne Jary

!789:8;(O&P(Q7KNDBK?R7(0P(4ST.(!789:8;P(OGDBK:?UL=87E(/V4W2(6T60(6.1JW1.6X(F?YE(/V4W2(6T60(-1SJW1.6X(7M?:@E>Z:[?8=AA\@789:8;ZH=M,L:D(]G^@:H?B:=8(C?D(]K7D78B7>(>GK:8;(BL7(3.BL(<?85<?>7(F:^7K(*=8A7K78H7(0.11P(_=K8^:K8P(OGDBK:?Z

Abstract

`B:@:Ba([?@G7D( D:;8:bH?8B( A=K( :8DB:BGB:=8?@( B=C7@D(C7K7( :8[7DB:;?B7>( :8( B7KKa( A?^K:HD(=A( :>78B:H?@( H=8DBKGHB:=8DP(H=8D:DB:8;(=A(>:AA7K78B(b^7K(M?B7K:?@DZ(,L7(]7KA=KM?8H7(=A(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(?8>(H=BB=8(:8(^@78>D(C:BL(]=@a-7DB7K(C7K7(H=M]?K7>ZOAB7K(K7]7?B7>(C?DL:8;(HaH@7DP(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(B=C7@D(DL=C7>(̂ 7BB7K(B7YB:@7(]7KA=KM?8H7(BL?8(H=BB=8J^?D7>(B=C7@DZ,=C7@D(M?>7(AK=M(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(cU=@a7DB7K(H=M]?K7>(B=(H=BB=8c]=@a7DB7K(L?>(?(D:;8:bH?8B(?>[?8B?;7(C:BL(K7;?K>(B=(787K;aJD?[:8;Z!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(^@78>D(DL=C7>(^7BB7K(C?B7K(?^D=K^78Ha(C:BL=GB(H=M]K=M:D:8;(BL7(>Ka:8;(]7KA=KM?8H7(=A(BL7(:B7MDZ(,L:D(H?8(^7(?BBK:^GB7>(B=(BL7(^7BB7K(BK?8D]=KB?B:=8(/D]K7?>:8;2(=A(@:dG:>(C?B7K(:8(<=>?@c]=@a7DB7K(A?^K:HZ

Keywords: !"#$%&$'!()*+,®!")-./!.)0#,/!&$*12.3&+,!,+1$*34/!*34&$'!.&5#/!*34&$'!#$#3'4

Introduction

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&K=CBL( ?@D=( K7DG@BD( :8B=( 7H=@=;:H?@( H=8H7K8DP( 7Z;Z( ?(@?G8>Ka(;787K?B7D(BL7(@?K;7DB(D:8;@7(C?DB7(C?B7K(D=GK-H7( BL?B( :D( D78B( B=( BL7( C?DB7( C?B7K( ]@?8BZ(O@=87( `e(@?G8>K:7D( GD7( T..(M:@@:=8(Mf( ]7K( a7?KP( CL7K7?D( BL7(C=K@>C:>7(@?G8>Ka(H=8DGM]B:=8(:D(7DB:M?B7>(B=(̂ 7(BL7(1.JA=@>([1]Z(%8(B7KM(=A(787K;aP(BL7(=]B:M:9?B:=8(=A(H=8-DGM]B:=8(>GK:8;(>Ka:8;(]K=H7DD7D(K7]K7D78BD(8=B(=8@a(?8(7H=8=M:H?@(HL?@@78;7P(^GB(?@D=(?8(7H=@=;:H?@(=87Z

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H=BB=8P(CL:HL(C?D(A=G8>(B=(L?[7(BL7(L7?[:7DB(7H=@=;: H?@( A==B( ]K:8B( ?M=8;( BL7( H=M]?K7>( b^7KD( /H=BB=8P( ]=@a7DB7KP(!789:8;(M?8JM?>7(H7@@G@=D:HD2([2]Z

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+:;L7K(La;:787(K7dG:K7M78BD( :8(D7HB=KD( @:N7(L=D]:-B?@DP(A==>(?8>(]L?KM?H7GB:H?@(:8>GDBKa(L?[7(K7DG@B7>(:8( :8HK7?D7>( M?B7K:?@( ?8>( 787K;a( BGK8=[7K( :8( BL7(@?G8>Ka( ]K=H7DD7DZ(,L:D( H?GD7D( B:M7( 7YB78D:[7( ?8>(H=DB(:8B78D:[7(@?G8>7K:8;(]K=H7DD7DP(>G7(B=(K7;G@?B:-=8D(^a(@?CZ

%8(=BL7K(D7HB=KD(C:BL(DB:@@(8?B:=8?@(DB?8>?K>DP(DGHL(?D(L=B7@DP( BL7(D:BG?B:=8(;7BD(7[78(M=K7(H=M]@:H?B7>P(^a(

55

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Q:BL:8(:8>GDBK:?@(@?G8>KaP(B7KKa(B=C7@D(H=M]=D7(?(HK:-B:H?@(;K=G](:8(B7KMD(=A(787K;a(H=8DGM]B:=8E(%8(B=C7@D(C?B7K( G]B?N7( :D( =8( =87( L?8>( ]7KA=KM?8H7( ?BBK:^GB7P(^GB(@7?>D(=8(BL7(=BL7K(L?8>(B=(L:;L7K(787K;a(H=8DGM]-B:=8(:8(BL7(>Ka:8;(]K=H7DDZ(O>>:B:=8?@@aP(?8>(>:AA7K78B(B=( =BL7K( :B7MDP( BL7( B7KKa( A?^K:HD(MGDB( ^7( H=M]@7B7@a(>K:7>(>GK:8;(BL7(]K=H7DDP(?D(8=(AGKBL7K(>Ka:8;(DB7](/:Z7Z(:K=8:8;2(:D(A=K7D778Z

_G7(B=(BL7(7H=@=;:H?@(877>(B=(K7]@?H7(H=BB=8(?8>(BL7(7H=8=M:H?@(?D]7HBD( :8(B7KMD(=A(^?D:H(H=DBP( @=8;7[:Ba(?8>(?@D=(787K;a(D?[:8;P(]=@a7DB7K(L?D(^7H=M7(?(C7@-H=M7(^@78>:8;(]?KB87KZ(*=BB=8(H?8(8=B(^7(H=M]@7B7@a(K7]@?H7>(^a(Da8BL7B:HD(>G7(B=(BL7(La>K=]L=^:H(]K=]7K-B:7D(=A(BL7(@?BB7KZ(<?8JM?>7(H7@@G@=D:HD(?K7(?8(:8B7K7D-B:8;(K7]@?H7M78BP(?D(@=8;(?D(BL7a(?K7(?^@7(B=(AG@b@@(BL7(]7KA=KM?8H7(K7dG:K7M78BD(=A(:8DB:BGB:=8?@(B=C7@DZ(I]-

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@a7DB7K( ^@78>D( ?K7( ?@K7?>a( ?]]@:7>( :8( BL:D( D7HB=K( A=K(7H=8=M:H?@(K7?D=8DZ

,L7(B?DN(=A(BL:D(DBG>a(:D(B=(:8[7DB:;?B7(BL7(DG:B?^:@:Ba(=A(787K;aJD?[:8;(B=C7@D(^?D7>(=8(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(A=K(:8>GDBK:?@(@?G8>KaP(?D(C7@@(B=(?DD7DD(BL7(?>[?8B?;7(=A(BL7(D?M7(:8(H=M]?K:D=8(B=(H=MM=8(H=BB=8c]=@a7DB7K(^@78>DZ

Material and Methods (experimental)

,=C7@D(M?>7(AK=M(H=BB=8P(H=BB=8c]=@a7DB7KP(M=>?@cH=B-B=8(?8>(M=>?@c]=@a7DB7KP(C:BL(:>78B:H?@(A?^K:H(H=8DBKGH-B:=8P(C7K7(M?8GA?HBGK7>(^a(FK?MD=L8(FK=BB:7K(/OGDBK:?2Z,a]:H?@(?]]K=YZ(4S.(;cMh(:8DB:BGB:=8?@(B=C7@:8;(H=8D-BKGHB:=8(C:BL(3.c3.g(H=BB=8c]=@a7DB7K(^?D7(?8>(BC=J]@a(]:@7(L?D(^778(D7@7HB7>Z

U:@7(i?K:?B:=8DE

3.c3.g( !789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(c*=BB=83.c3.g( !789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(cU"e3.c3.g( *=BB=8cU"e1..g( *=BB=8

`,%!%,j(iO!`"eComparison of surface appearance and hand after

3#6#+.#*!,+1$*34!0+27&$'!848,#2!+88)3*&$'!.)!9:;!

<=>?>@ABBA!C>=DE/!AB!5&$FG

,L7(C?DL:8;(]7KA=KM?8H7P(7[?@G?B7>(^a(A?^K:H(L?8>(C?D(H=M]?K7>(?AB7K(1.P(0.P(W.(?8>(3.(C?DL(HaH@7DZ

"))6!3#5)H+,!2.3#$'.7

!==]( K7M=[?@( DBK78;BL( C?D( B7DB7>( ?HH=K>:8;( B=( BL7(OGDBK:?8(,7YB:@7(#=KM(k,#(.T-Z

Fabric drape

,L7(A?^K:H(>K?]7(C?D(B7DB7>(A=@@=C:8;(QeU(-.Z4ZO(H=8>:B:=87>(/0Wl*P(3.g(K+P(04(L2(K=G8>(D?M]@7(/W.(HM2(D?M]@7(:D(]@?H7>(L=K:9=8B?@@a(^7BC778(BC=(DM?@-@7K( ;@?DD( ]@?B7D( /1S( HM2Z(O( @:;LB( D=GKH7( :D( H78B7K7>(^7@=C(BL7(?DD7M^@aZ(OAB7K(W.(D7H=8>D(BL7(@:;LB(D=GKH7(:D(BGK87>(=8(?8>(BL7(DL?>=C(CL:HL(:D(BLK=C8(=8(?(>7-b87>(]?]7K(DGKA?H7(:D(@:87>Z(,L7(@:87>(DL?>=C(:D(HGB(?C?a(?8>(BL7(>K?]7(H=7AbH:78B(m_*n(:D(H?@HG@?B7>(^a(BL7(C7:;LB(]7KH78B?;7(=A(BL7(HGB(oDL?>=Cp(B=(BL7(B=B?@(]?]7K(C7:;LBZ(,L7(DM?@@7K(BL7(DL?>=CP(BL7(L:;L7K(BL7(A?^K:HD(>K?]7Z

<"Oe`'"<"#,(IF(QO,"'(O*,%i%,j,L7( C?B7K( ?HB:[:Ba( C?D( B7DB7>( ?HH=K>:8;( B=( %eI(01S.6E0..4,L7(C?B7K(?HB:[:Ba([?@G7(/?

C2(:D(?(M7?DGK7(=A(BL7(AK77(

/?[?:@?^@72(C?B7K(:8(BL7(M?B7K:?@Z(%B(:D(>7b87>(^a(BL7(K?B:=(=A(BL7(]?KB:?@([?]=K(]K7DDGK7(=[7K(BL7(DGKA?H7(/]2(B=(BL7([?]=K(]K7DDGK7(=[7K(]GK7(C?B7K(DGKA?H7(/]

=2

?Cq](c(]

=

<"Oe`'"<"#,(IF("#"'&j(*I#e`<U,%I#(/_'j%#&('O,"21.(B=C7@D(/?]]K=YZ(0Z3(N;2(C7K7(C7:;L7>(?8>(C7BB7>(A=K(3(M:8GB7D(:8(C?B7KZ(OAB7K(D]:88:8;(?B(10..(K]M(:8(?( <%"!"(QS04( C?DL:8;( M?HL:87( BL7( C7:;LB( C?D(

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(36

56

H=8BK=@@7>(?;?:8Z(,L7(B=C7@D(C7K7(>K:7>(:8(?(<%"!"(,44.*( H=8>78D7( BGM^@7KP( 7dG:]]7>(C:BL( ?8( 7@7HBK:H:Ba(M7B7KZ

Results and discussion

`,%!%,j(iO!`"eComparison of surface appearance and hand, after

repeated laundry washing cycles

O@K7?>a(?AB7K( BL7(bKDB(C?DL:8;(HaH@7P( BL7(?>[?8B?;7(=A(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(c(U"e(^@78>(:8(]:@7(C?D(K7M?KN? -̂

@7Z(OAB7K(W.(C?DL7DP(BL7(>:AA7K78H7(:D(D:;8:bH?8B(?8>(DL=C(BL7(?^:@:Ba(BL7(H=M]?K:D=8(DL=C7>(?(H@7?K(?>[?8B?;7(=A(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(?;?:8DB(H=BB=8(:8(BL7(D?M7(^@78>Z,L7(L?8>(7[?@G?B:=8D(7Y]K7DD7>(:8(D=AB87DD(;K?>7D(/.(A=K(C=KDBX(1.(A=K(^7DB2(/F:;GK7(12Z!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(b^7K(H?8(M?:8B?:8( :BD(DM==BL-

87DD(?AB7K(K7]7?B7>(C?DL:8;(?8>(>Ka:8;(HaH@7DZ(

"))6!3#5)H+,!2.3#$'.7

!==](K7M=[?@(DBK78;BL(:D(?(HKGH:?@(dG?@:Ba(HK:B7K:=8(A=K(B7KKa(A?^K:HD(GD7>(:8(:8DB:BGB:=8?@(GD7Z(,L7(K7DG@BD(=A(BL7(@==](K7M=[?@(DBK78;BL(?K7(]K7D78B7>(:8(F:;GK7(0Z(O@BL=G;L(BL7(M=>?@(b^7K(:D(N8=C8(B=(^7(DM==BLP( BL7( @==]( K7M=[?@( DBK78;BL( =A( B7KKa( A?^K:HD(M?>7(AK=M(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(:D(H=M]?K?^@7(C:BL(BL7(H=KK7D]=8>:8;(A?^K:HD(GD:8;(H=BB=8Z

Fabric drape

,L7(A?^K:H(>K?]7(>7B7KM:87D( BL7( K:;:>87DD(=A( BL7( A?^K:H(?8>(:BD(?^:@:Ba(B=(?>?]B(:BD7@A(B=(BL7(LGM?8(^=>aZ(_K?]7(7Y]K7DD7D(BL7(A?^K:H(D=AB87DD(?8>(L?8>(?8>(:B(:D(?8(:M]=K-B?8B(A?HB=K(A=K(B=C7@:8;P(?AA7HB:8;(BL7(>a8?M:H(AG8HB:=8?-@:BaP(K7D]7HB:[7@aP(:B(:D(?(>7H:D:[7(]7KA=KM?8H7(HK:B7K:?Z_G7(B=(BL7(DM==BL87DD(=A(BL7(M=>?@(b^7KP( BL7(>K?]7(>:K7HB@a(H=KK7@?B7D(C:BL(BL7(DL?K7(=A(!789:8;(<=>?@®

!=AB(:8(BL7(A?^K:H(/F:;GK7(W2Z

QO,"'(O*,%i%,j(/OQJiO!`"2(

Q?B7K(?HB:[:Ba(:D(=AB78(>7b87>(?D(oAK77p(=K(o?[?:@?^@7(C?B7Kp(:8(?(DaDB7M(?8>(:D(:M]=KB?8B(B=(>7B7KM:87(M:-HK=^:?@(;K=CBL(K?B7D(/%B(:D(C:>7@a(GD7>(:8(A==>(DH:78H7(?D(?(D:M]@7(M7?DGK7(=A(BL7(>Ka87DD(=A(A==>2Z(!7DD(AK77(C?B7K(?[?:@?^@7(:8(BL7(A?^K:HP(K7DG@BD(:8(?(D@=C7K(;K=CBL(=A(M:HK==K;?8:DMZ(,L:D(7AA7HB(=A(8?BGK?@(La;:787(:D(?8(:M]=KB?8B(?BBK:^GB7(:8(:8DB:BGB:=8?@(GD7Z(+:;L7K(H7@@G@=-D:H(K?B:=(@7?>D(B=(@=C7K(C?B7K(?HB:[:BaZ(,L7(C?B7K(?HB:-[:Ba(K7DG@BD(/F:;GK7(42(DL=C(L:;L7K(^=8>:8;(=A(LGM:->:Ba(/L78H7(@=C7K(C?B7K(?HB:[:Ba2(:8(!789:8;(<=>?@®

!=AB(b^7KD(H=M]?K7>(B=(H=BB=8Z(

)?HB7K:?@( ;K=CBL( =8( !789:8;( <=>?@®( !=AB( K7dG:K7D(L:;L7K(=[7K?@@(LGM:>:Ba(@7[7@(=8(BL7(b^7KZ,L:D(M7?8D( ?( K7>GH7>( ;K=CBL( =A( ^?HB7K:?( ?8>( AG8;:(C:BL=GB(?]]@a:8;(^:=H:>7DZ(,L7(8?BGK?@(La;:787(?D]7HB(M:;LB(^7(=A(?>[?8B?;7(A=K(BL7(L7?@BL(H?K7(D7HB=KZ

"#"'&j(*I#e`<U,%I#(O,(,`<)!"'(_'j%#&_7H:D:[7(A=K(BL7(>Ka:8;(K?B7(?8>(L78H7(BL7(787K;a(H=8-DGM]B:=8( >GK:8;( BL7( >Ka:8;( ]K=H7DD( :D( BL7( :8:B:?@(?M=G8B(=A(C?B7K(?AB7K(D]:88:8;(?8>(BL7(M7HL?8:DM(=A(C?B7K(BK?8D]=KB(C:BL:8(BL7(A?^K:HZ(Q?B7K(BK?8D]=KB(C:BL:8(BL7(A?^K:H(:D(HKGH:?@(A=K(BL7(7[?-]=K?B:=8(DGKA?H7P(CL:HL(>7B7KM:87D(BL7(>Ka:8;(D]77>Z(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(?^D=K^D(M=K7(C?B7K(BL?8(H=BB=8(>=7D(/F:;GK7(32Z(,L:D( A?HBP(CL:HL( :D(?8(?>[?8B?;7( :8(B=C7@:8;P(M:;LB(^7(?(>:D?>[?8B?;7(?B(>Ka:8;ZO@BL=G;L(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(:D(?^@7(B=(?^D=K^(M=K7(C?B7KP(K7D]7HB:[7@aP(N77]D(M=K7(C?B7K(?AB7K(D]:88:8;P(BL7( !789:8;( <=>?@®( !=ABc]=@a7DB7K( ^@78>( DL=C7>(7[78(@7DD(787K;a(H=8DGM]B:=8(]7K(N;(BL?8(BL7(H=BB=8c]=@a7DB7K(^@78>(/F:;GK7(T2Z(

Figure 1. Subjective Evaluation of fabric hand of towels

I+2#*!+-.#3!<B/!AB!+$*!JB!0+27#2F

Figure 2. "))6!K#5)H+,!:.3#$'.7!5#+213#*!-),,)0&$'!

L12.3&+$!M#N.&,#!:.+$*+3*!;MO!BP?!QOR55SF

Figure 3.!T3+6#!)-!8)..)$/!"#$%&$'!()*+,®!";UM!+$*!&.2!

I,#$*!QTV!<RTEF<BBSF

57

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(36

,L7(787K;a(H=8DGM]B:=8(]7K(7[?]=K?B7>(C?B7K(?M=G8B(DL=CD(BL7(7AbH:78Ha(=A(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=ABP(:8(BL7(^@78>( C:BL( ]=@a7DB7KZ( !789:8;( <=>?@®( !=AB( ^@78>(H@7?K@a( =GB]7KA=KMD( BL7( H=M]?K?^@7( H=BB=8( ]K=>GHBP(>7D]:B7(BL7(L:;L7K(:8:B:?@(M=:DBGK7(/F:;GK7(62Z

Conclusions

,L7(7H=@=;:H?@(?D]7HB(=A(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(b^7K(:D(8=B(@:M:B7>(B=(BL7(DGDB?:8?^@7(b^7K(D=GKH7(?8>(BL7(7H=-@=;:H?@@a(AK:78>@a(b^7K(D]:88:8;(]K=H7DDZeB?KB:8;(C:BL(H=M]?K?^@7(GB:@:Ba([?@G7D(B=(BL7(H=BB=8c]=@a-7DB7K( ^@78>DP( ?( ]?HN?;7( =A( ?>[?8B?;7D( A=K( :8DB:BGB:=8?@(?]]@:H?B:=8(:D(=AA7K7>E(,L7(=]B:M:97>(B7KKa(B=C7@(A?^K:H(H=8DBKGHB:=8(GD:8;(3.E3.(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(c]=@a7DB7K(:8(BL7(]:@7(=AA7KD(787K;a(D?[:8;(:8(BL7(>Ka:8;(]K=H7DDZ(,L7(>:AA7K78H7(:8(BL7(K7dG:K7>(>Ka:8;(787K;a(^7BC778(B7DB7>(?8>(H=MM=8@a(GD7>(:8DB:BGB:=8?@(B=C7@D(C:@@(7[78(̂ 7(L:;-L7K(:8(DH?@7>JG](:8>GDBK:?@(C?DL:8;(?8>(>Ka:8;(DaDB7MDP(@7?>:8;(B=(D:;8:bH?8B@a(@=C7K(H=DBDZ!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB( H=8B?:8:8;( A?^K:HD( DL=C7>( @=-

C7K(?M=G8BD(=A( AK77(C?B7KP(CL:HL( K7B?K>7>(^?HB7K:?@(;K=CBL( ?8>( L78H7( K7>GH7>( DM7@@( >7[7@=]M78BZ(,L:D(8?BGK?@(La;:787(?D]7HB(M?N7D(BL7(b^7K(=A(L:;L(:8B7K7DB(8=B(=8@a(=A(BL7(L=D]:B?@:Ba(D7HB=KP(^GB(?@D=(L7?@BL(H?K7Z((!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB( B=C7@D(M?:8B?:8( BL7:K(]@7?D?8B(A?^K:H(L?8>(?AB7K( K7]7?B7>(C?DL(?8>(>Ka(HaH@7DP( BL:D(7YB78>:8;(BL7:K(@=8;7[:Ba(?8>(B:M7(:8(GD7Z(,L7(]=:8B(CL7K7(?(L=D]:B?@:Ba(B=C7@(:D(B=(^7(K7]@?H7>(H?8(^7(K7-B?K>7>(^a(BL7(87C(b^7KZ(,L:D(D?[:8;(=A(M?B7K:?@D(:D(=A(^=BLP(7H=@=;:H?@(?8>(7H=8=M:H?@(D:;8:bH?8H7Ze=P(!789:8;(<=>?@®(!=AB(:D(̂ =BLP(BL7(7H=8=M:H?@(?8DC7K(?8>(7H=@=;:H?@(D=@GB:=8(A=K(:8DB:BGB:=8?@(B=C7@DZ

Acknowledgements

r?KDG(,7NDB:@P(WS3T.(r?aD7K:P(,GKN7aP(?8>()=KHN78-DB7:8(sG?@:BtBD;?K87P(S0-0(#7G>?GP(OGDBK:?P(A=K(]K=[:->:8;(BL7(a?K8D(FK?MD=L8(FK=BB:7KP(WST.(+7:>78K7:HL-

DB7:8P(OGDBK:?P(A=K(M?8GA?HBGK7(=A(B7KKa(B=C7@D(r?K:8(rtM]AP( +7KB?( U:Y87K( ?8>(O;87D( `C?@7N7P( !789:8;(O&(A=K(M=8:B=K:8;(?8>(]7KA=KM:8;(BL7(B7YB:@7(?8>(]7K-A=KM?8H7(B7DB:8;Z

References

m1n( &787(_7>:HNE(,L7("8[:K=8M78B?@(?8>("H=8=M:H()787bBD(=A(*=MM7KH:?@(!?G8>Ka(Q?B7K('7HaH@:8;(u('7GD7X(Q?B7KeM?KB(%88=[?B:=8DP(!?D(i7;?DP(0..Sm0n( !:(eL78P():=J^?D7>(?8>('7HaH@7>(U=@aM7KD( A=K(*@7?87K( UK=>GHB:=8P( UL_( BL7D:DP( `8:[7KD:Ba( =A( `B-K7HLBP(0.11X(%e)#E(-(6S-(.ST(60.(4S4mWn( !:(eL78(?8>(<?KB:8(rZ(U?B7@P(!:A7(HaH@7(?DD7DD-M78B(=A(M?8JM?>7(H7@@G@=D7(b^K7DP(!789:8;7K()7K:HL-B7(SS(/0.1.2(1J3-

Figure 4.!LH+&,+I,#!0+.#3!C0+.#3!+8.&H&.4GF

Figure 5.!K#2&*1+,!5)&2.13#!8)$.#$.!+-.#3!26&$$&$'!C3#,F!.)!

*34!0#&'7./!WGF

Figure 6. Energy consumption of the towels at tumbler

*34&$'!CXY7RX'!0#.GF

Figure 7. Comparison of energy consumption during

*34&$'!6#3!,&.#3!)-!#H+6)3+.#*!0+.#3!CXY7R"G

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

58

TENCEL®(*89:;<(=9>?@9A;9

Gisela Goldhalm

!><BC<D(E&F(G>9HAI98J>(0F(K46.(!><BC<DF(E@AI9C8=L;<>M(/NK72(O6O0(O.1P00O3Q(R8SM(/NK72(O6O0(-14P00O3Q(>T8CUMDVD;UWL8UTXU><BC<DV?;T,LCA(Y@:UC?8IC;<(Z8A(Y9>A><I>W(W@9C<D(IL>(3.IL([8<5[8W>(RC:>9(*;<\>9><?>(0.11F(];9<:C9<F(E@AI9C8V

Abstract

*>UU@U;AC?(^:>9A(89>(Z>UU(>AI8:UCAL>W(8A(Y9>?@9A;9(T8I>9C8UA(\;9(?89:;<(^:>9(T8<@\8?I@9>F(ZCIL(8(LCAI;9_(W8IC<D(\9;T(IL>(>89UC>AI(W8_A(;\(IL>(?89:;<(^:>9(C<W@AI9_V(,"#*"!®F(IL>(AI8I>(;\(IL>(89I(?>UU@U;AC?(^:>9F(Y9;`CW>A(>S?>Y-IC;<8U(Y@9CI_(8<W(IL>(Y>9\;9T8<?>(?L898?I>9CAIC?A(W>T8<W>W(;\(?89:;<(^:>9(Y9>?@9A;9A(C<(IL>(01AI(*><I@9_V(,LCA(Y8Y>9(W>8UA(ZCIL(IL>(Y9;Y>9I_(Y9;^U>(;\(,"#*"!®(8<W(L;Z(CI(?;@UW(C<a@><?>(IL>(9>A@UIC<D(?89:;<(^:>9(Y>9\;9T8<?>V(!8:;98I;9_(A?8U>(?89:;<CA8IC;<(I9C8UA(Z>9>(?899C>W(;@I(ZCIL(A>U>?I>W(,"#*"!®(I_Y>A(@<W>9(`89C-;@A(?;<WCIC;<AV(,L>(>`8U@8IC;<(;\(WC\\>9><I(Y9;?>AA>W(?89:;<(^:>9A(W>9C`>W(\9;T(,"#*"!®(Z8A(\;?@A>W(;<(89>8A(UCH>(^:>9(AI9><DILF(Y@9CI_F(A@9\8?>(8<W(IL>9T8U(Y9;Y>9IC>AV(,L>(YC?I@9>(;\(IL>A>(9>A@UIA(AL;ZA(IL>(Y;I><IC-8U( \;9(,"#*"!®( 8A( 8( Y9>?@9A;9( \;9( >SCAIC<D( ?89:;<(^:>9( @A>A(ZLC?L( C<?U@W>( AI9@?I@98UF( IL>9T8U( 8<W(;IL>9( 8YYUC?8IC;<AV(

Keywords:!"#$%&''(!%&'')'$*&(!+,&%),*$,(!%-,.$/0*-10$/(!%-,.$/!2.&,

Introduction

,L>9>(89>(A;T>(>SCAIC<D(Y@:UC?8IC;<A(W>8UC<D(ZCIL(U_;-?>UU(8A(8(Y9>?@9A;9(\;9(?89:;<(^:>9AV(b;T>(Y8Y>9A(?;<-?><I98I>(;<(IL>9T8U(W>D98W8IC;<(8<W(?89:;<(_C>UWF[1F0]

ZLCUAI(;IL>9A(W>8U(ZCIL(IL>(@A>(;\(WC\\>9><I(CTY9>D<8IC;<(I9>8IT><IA[7]( 8<W( \@9IL>9T;9>( ;IL>9A( \;?@A( ;<( I><ACU>(AI9><DIL( W>`>U;YT><IV[KF3]( E<( C<I>9>AIC<D( AI@W_( Z8A(W;<>(ZCIL(WC\\>9><I(IL>9T8U(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(;9(;SCW8IC;<(AI>YA(\;9(`CA?;A>(98_;<F(ZLC?L(AL;Z>W(?U>89U_(IL>(C<a@-

Figure 1. 34&,40&5!$/!%-,.$/!2.&,!-++'0%-10$/!*&67&/1*8

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

59

><?>(;\(IL>9T8U(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(;<(?89:;<(_C>UWF(:@I(<;I(;<(AI9><DILV[6](R;9(IL>9T8U(Y9;Y>9IC>A(;\(U_;?>UU(W>9C`>W(?89:;<( ^:>9A( <;( Y@:UC?8IC;<A(Z>9>( \;@<W( I;( W8I>( 8UI-L;@DL(A;T>(>SCAI(\;9(`CA?;A>(98_;<(:8A>W(?89:;<(^:>9AV[7 ](#;<>(;\(IL>(>SCAIC<D(AI@WC>A(>`>9(?;T:C<>W(8UU(;\(IL;A>(Y9;Y>9IC>A(I;(DC`>(8<(;`>98UU(YC?I@9>V(%<(ILCA(Y8Y>9(Z>(Z;@UW(UCH>(I;(Y9>A><I(8(?;TY898IC`>(AI@W_(;\(U_;?>UU(8<W(`CA?;A>(98_;<(^:9>A(C<(IL>C9(?89:;<CA8IC;<(:>L8`C-;@9F(A>U>?IC<D(WC\\>9><I(;SCW8IC;<(8<W(?89:;<CA8IC;<(?;<-WCIC;<A( I;(8UA;(LCDLUCDLI( IL>(_C>UW(W>`>U;YT><I(;\( IL>(WC\\>9><I(^:>9(I_Y>A(8<W(ICI>9AV(,><ACU>(AI9><DIL(W>`>U;Y-T><I(ZCIL(WC\\>9><I(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(AI>YA(\;9(U_;?>UU(ZCUU(8UA;(:>(?;`>9>WV(EWWCIC;<8UU_F(IL>9T8U(Y9;Y>9IC>A(;\(IL>(U_;?>UU(W>9C`>W(?89:;<(^:>9A(Z>9>(I>AI>W(8<W(?;TY89>W(I;(?89:;<(^:>9A(W>9C`>W(\9;T(;IL>9(Y9>?@9A;9AV(%<(8WWC-IC;<(I;(IL>9T8U(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(8(?L>TC?8U(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(AI>Y( Z8A( ?L;A><( I;( AL;Z( W>`>U;YT><I( ;\( _C>UW( 8<W(AI9><DIL(Y9;Y>9IC>AV(RC<8UU_F(IL>(WC\\>9><I(8?IC`8IC;<(:>-L8`C;@9(;\(U_;?>UU(8<W(98_;<(Z8A(AI@WC>WV(R9;T(8<(8<8-U_ACA( ;\( IL>( 9>A@UIA( ?;<?U@AC;<A(Z>9>( W98Z<( 8A( I;( IL>(A@CI8:CUCI_(;\(,"#*"!®F(8A(8(?89:;<(Y9>?@9A;9(C<(WC\\>-9C<D(8YYUC?8IC;<(89>8AV(RCD@9>(1(AL;ZA(Y;AAC:U>(8YYUC?8-IC;<A(ZCIL(?89:;<(̂ :>9AV(,LCA(Z;9H(AL;@UW(DC`>(8<(C<WC?8-IC;<(;\(IL;A>(A>DT><IA(ZL>9>(TENCEL®(?;@UW(:>(@A>W(8A(8(Y9>?@9A;9V

Experimental

[E,"'%E!bR;9(8UU(I9C8UA(I;Z(A8TYU>A(Z>9>(@A>WV("8?L(I;Z(YC>?>(L8W(8( U><DIL( ;\( 0.( ?T( 8<W( 8<( 8YY9;SCT8I>(Z>CDLI( ;\( 0.(D98TAV(,L>(^:>9(I_Y>A(@A>W(\;9(IL>(I9C8UA(Z>9>(U_;?>UU(^:>9(TENCEL®(1VO(8<W(7V7(WI>SF(`CA?;A>(98_;<(I_Y>(E(1VO(8<W(7V7(WI>S(8<W(`CA?;A>(98_;<(I_Y>()(7V7(WI>SV(,L>(`CA?;A>( 98_;<( A8TYU>A( 89>( \9;T(WC\\>9><I( ?;TT>9?C8U(A;@9?>A(8<W(89>(@A>W(8A(?89:;<CA8IC;<(Y9>?@9A;9AV

,+"'[E!(E#](*+"[%*E!(='"P,'"E,["#,%<(A;T>(LCAI;9C?8U(AI@WC>A(IL>(C<a@><?>(;\(IL>9T8U(;SC-W8IC`>( I9>8IT><I( ;\( `CA?;A>( 98_;<( ^:>9A( Z8A( W>A?9C-:>W[8](V((E??;9WC<D(I;(IL>A>F(IL>(^:>9(A8TYU>A(Z>9>(L>8-I>W(@Y(I;(01.F(003F(0K.F(03.(8<W(06.c*(@<W>9(A_<IL>IC?(

8C9(ZCIL(WZ>UU(ICT>A(;\(7.(TC<(8I(I>TY>98I@9>A(;\(11.c*F(13.c*(0..c*(8<W(8I(IL>(?L;A><(T8SCT@T(I>TY>98I@9>(;\(;SCW8IC`>(I9>8IT><IVR;9(?L>TC?8U(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(IL>(a8T>(9>I89W8<I(WC8TT;-<C@TL_W9;D><(YL;AYL8I>(/]E+=2(Z8A(?L;A><(8A(CI(Z8A(Y9;T;I>W(8A(IL>(T;AI(>\^?C><I(9>8D><I(\;9(_C>UW(><L8<?>-ment[9]( V(,L>9>\;9>(IL>(^:>9A(Z>9>(CTY9>D<8I>W(ZCIL(8(7d(]E+=(A;U@IC;<(8I(8T:C><I(I>TY>98I@9>(\;9(7.(TC<@-I>AV("S?>AA(A;U@IC;<(Z8A(9>T;`>W(:_(?><I9C\@D8IC;<F(A;(IL8I(IL>(^:>9(Z8A(U;8W>W(ZCIL(8YY9;SCT8I>U_(0(ZId(;\(]E+=(8\I>9(W9_C<D(;`>9(<CDLI(8I(O.c*(C<(`8?@@TV(E\I>9(IL>(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(IL>(̂ :>9(A8TYU>A(Z>9>(?89:;<CA>WV

CARBONISATION,L>(?89:;<CA8IC;<(Y9;?>AA(Z8A(?899C>W(;@I(@<W>9( C<>9I(8IT;AYL>9>(C<(8(?L8T:>9(\@9<8?>V(E9D;<(Z8A(?L;A><(8A(IL>( C<>9I(D8A(ZCIL(8(D8A(a;Z(;\(3S( IL>(`;U@T>(;\( IL>(;`><(?L8T:>9(Y>9(L;@9V(,L>(I>TY>98I@9>(98TY(98I>(@Y(I;(6..c*(Z8A(.F6c*eTC<(ZCIL(WZ>UU(ICT>A(;\(7.(TC<@I>A(8I(0..F(7..F(K..F(6..(8<W(-3.c*F(IL><(IL>(98TY(98I>(Z8A(C<?9>8A>W(I;(3c*eTC<(@Y(I;(0...c*(ZCIL(8(WZ>UU(ICT>(8I(0...c*(\;9(7.(TC<V(,L>(?;;UC<D(98I>(Z8A(3c*eTC<V(

E*,%fE,%g#E?IC`8IC;<( I9C8UA(Z>9>(?899C>W(;@I( C<(8(L;9CB;<I8U( I@:>(\@9<8?>VR;9(8?IC`8IC;<(]E+=(I9>8I>W(TENCEL®(8<W(`CA?;-A>(98_;<(A8TYU>A(Z>9>(L>8I>W(@Y(I;(43.c*F(-0.c*(8<W(1...c*(@<W>9(C<>9I(8IT;AYL>9>(8<W(IL><F(L>UW(8I( ILCA( I>TY>98I@9>( \;9( 10.(TC<@I>A( @<W>9( ?89:;<(WC;SCW>(8IT;AYL>9>V(&8A(a;Z(Z8A(3(S(IL>(I@:>(`;-U@T>(Y>9(L;@9V

=+hb%*E!(='g="',%"b9:01&!2.&,!-/-'#*0*![;CAI@9>(?;<I><I(;\(IL>(A8TYU>A(Z8A(W>I>9TC<>W(I;(><-A@9>(?;99>?I(?8U?@U8IC;<(;\(IL>(?89:;<(_C>UWV(E(,&PE<8-U_ACA(C<(E9D;<(8IT;AYL>9>(ZCIL(8(98TY(98I>(;\(1.c*eTC<(Z8A(?899C>W(;@I(I;(`CA@8UCB>(IL>(WC\\>9><?>A(C<(IL>9T8U(W>D98W8IC;<(;\( IL>(WC\\>9><I(A8TYU>AV(=L_AC?8U(Y9;Y>9-IC>A( UCH>( I><ACU>(AI9><DIL(8<W(>U;<D8IC;<(Z>9>(W>I>9TC-<>WQ( ?9_AI8UUC<CI_( ;\( IL>( A8TYU>A( Z8A( W>I>9TC<>W( :_(#['(8<W(Y@9CI_(:_(%*=V

Figure 2.!;<=!+0%1),&!$>!-!40*%$*&!,-#$/!2.&,8 Figure 3. SEM picture of a ?<@A<"®!2.&,8

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

60

A-,.$/!2.&,!-/-'#*0*R9;T(IL>(9>A@UIC<D(?89:;<(^:>9A(_C>UW(Z8A(T>8A@9>W(:_(8( D98`CT>I9C?(T>IL;WF(*+#P8<8U_ACA(Z8A( ?899C>W(;@IF(AC<DU>(^:>9( I><ACU>( AI9><DIL(;\( IL>(7V7(WI>S(^:>9A(Z8A(W>I>9TC<>W(ZCIL(8(T;WC^>W($ZC?H(I><ACU>(I>AIV(R;9(ILCA(T>IL;W(8(AC<DU>(^:>9(CA(?U>8`>W(:;<W>W(I;(8(?89W:;89W(\98T>F(ZLC?L(CA(IL><(?U8TY>W(C<I;(IL>($ZC?HF(8\I>9(IL8I(IL>(ACW>A(;\(IL>(?89W:;89W(\98T>(89>(?@I(8<W(IL>(I><ACU>(9>ACAI8<?>(CA(T>8A@9>WV(R@9IL>9T;9>( IL>( IL>9T8U( C<A@U8IC;<( Y9;Y>9IC>A( 8I( `>9_(LCDL(I>TY>98I@9>A(Z>9>(I>AI>WV(,LCA(Z8A(?899C>W(;@I(:_(IL>(C<AICI@I>(,L>9TC?89F(!8:;98I;C9>(%<I>9>I8:UCAA>T><IA(

,9>\a>(/R98<?>2(8??;9WC<D( I;( IL>(T>IL;W(W>A?9C:>W( C<(UCI>98I@9>[1.](V(

R9;T(IL>(8?IC`8I>W(?89:;<(^:>9A(b"[(YC?I@9>A(Z>9>(I8-H><(I;(`CA@8UCB>(IL>(Y;9>A(8<W(8()",(8<8U_ACA(Z8A(W;<>(I;(;:I8C<(`8U@>A(\;9(IL>(8?IC`8I>W(A@9\8?>V

Results and discussion

='"*i'bg'(E#E!hb%bRCD@9>A(0(8<W(7(AL;Z(?U>89U_(IL>(WC\\>9><?>(:>IZ>><(̀ CA?;-A>(98_;<(^:>9(8<W(IL>(U_;?>UU(^:>9(TENCEL®V(,L>(U8II>9(L8A(8(AT;;IL(A@9\8?>(8<W(8(9;@<W(?9;AA(A>?IC;<V(TENCEL®

8UA;(L8A(8(ACD<C^?8<IU_(LCDL>9(?9_AI8UUC<CI_(?;TY89>W(ZCIL(IL>(̀ CA?;A>(98_;<(I_Y>A(ZLC?L(CA(AL;Z<(C<(RCD@9>(KV(fCA?;-A>()(L8A(8<(>`><(U;Z>9(?9_AI8UUC<CI_(IL8<(`CA?;A>(EV(EUA;(Y@9CI_(CA(WC\\>9><I(\;9(IL>(A8TYU>AV(,L>(%*=(`8U@>A(AL;Z(ACD<C^?8<IU_( U;Z>9(<@T:>9A( 8?9;AA( 8( 98<D>(;\( I98?>(>U>-T><IA(\;9(TENCEL®(?;TY89>W(I;(`CA?;A>(98_;<V,><ACU>(AI9><DIL(;\( IL>(TENCEL®(^:>9A(Z8A(89;@<W(63(Y>9?><I(LCDL>9(IL8<(`CA?;A>(98_;<(E(8<W(7.(Y>9?><I(LCDL>9(IL8<(`CA?;A>(98_;<()V("U;<D8IC;<(Z8A(1.(8<W(1Kd(\;9(IL>(TENCEL®(^:>9AF(1Od(\;9(`CA?;A>(E(8<W(10d(\;9(`CA?;A>()V

Figure 4. Precursor crystallinity of ?<@A<"® and viscose

,-#$/!B&,04&B!2.&,*8

Table 1. ICP-analysis of ?<@A<"® and viscose rayon samples.

Figure 5. Relative comparison of trace element loading of

carbonisation emissions from ?<@A<"®, viscose rayon A

and viscose rayon B.

Figure 7.! ?CDE%),4&! >$,! FG!HDIJ! 1,&-1&B! -/B! )/1,&-1&B!?<@A<"®

.

Figure 6. TGA-curve for ?<@A<"® and viscose rayon B.

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

61

*E')g#(R%)"'(E#E!hb%b(*+#P8<8U_ACA(D8`>(8(?89:;<(?;<I><I(;\(--P1..d(\;9(8UU(?89:;<CA>W(^:>9A(>S?>YI(\;9(IL>(?L>TC?8UU_(Y9>PI9>8I>W(^:>9AV(,L;A>(L8W(8(?89:;<(?;<I><I(;\(89;@<W(-OdV%<I>9>AIC<DU_(8UIL;@DL(I98?>(>U>T><I(CTY@9CI_(WC\\>9><-?>A(:>IZ>><(TENCEL®(8<W(98_;<(C<(IL>(ZLCI>(^:>9(AI8-I>( IL>( WC\\>9><?>A( 89>( j@CI>( ACD<C^?8<IF( ZLCU>( ACTCU89(<@T:>9A(Z>9>(\;@<W(\;9(IL>(9>A@UIC<D(?89:;<CA>W(^:>9AV(g<>(Y;AAC:U>(L_Y;IL>ACA(\;9(ILCA(^<WC<D(89>(ACD<C^?8<I-U_(LCDL>9(>TCAAC;<(U>`>UA(9>A@UIC<D(\9;T(`CA?;A>(98_;<(?;TY89>W( I;(TENCEL®V( RCD@9>( 3( AL;ZA( IL>( 9>U8IC`>(?;TY89CA;<(;\(A;T>(;\(IL>(I98?>(>U>T><IA(C<(IL>(?89:;-<CA8IC;<(>TCAAC;<A(A>IIC<D(IL>(LCDL>AI(<@T:>9(I;(1..d(8<W(IL>(;IL>9A(C<(9>U8IC;<(I;(CIV(

%<(RCD@9>(6(IL>(,&E(?@9`>A(;\(TENCEL®(8<W(`CA?;A>(98_;<()(89>(AL;Z<V(]>D98W8IC;<(;\(TENCEL®(AI89IA(8I(LCDL>9(I>TY>98I@9>(ZLC?L(?;@UW(9>A@UI(\9;T(LCDL>9(?9_A-I8UUC<CI_F(AT;;IL>9(A@9\8?>F(T;9>(9>D@U89(AL8Y>(8<W(LCD-L>9(]=V(,L>( 9>A@UIC<D(_C>UW(8I(6..c*(AL;ZA(8( ACTCU89(:>L8`C;@9(\;9(:;IL(^:>9(I_Y>AV,L>(IL>9T8U(W>D98W8IC;<(;\(IL>(?L>TC?8UU_(Y9>PI9>8I>W(TENCEL®( AL;ZA( 8( \8AI>9( W>D98W8IC;<( AI89I( 8I( U;Z>9(I>TY>98I@9>AF(:@I(8(ACD<C^?8<IU_(LCDL>9(_C>UW(8I(6..c*V ,L>(?89:;<CA8IC;<(T8AA(_C>UW(\;9(8UU(̂ :>9(I_Y>A(8<W(WC\\>-9><I(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(8<W(?89:;<CA8IC;<(Y9;D98TA(CA(AL;Z<(C<(,8:U>(0V(%I(CA(C<I>9>AIC<D(I;(<;I>(IL8I(8UU(WC\\>9C<D(Y9>PI9>8IT><IA(U>W(I;(;YICT@T(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(I>TY>98I@9>A(I;(

Figure 9.!?&/*0'&!*1,&/61:!$>!%-,.$/!2.&,*!B&,04&B!>,$7!?<@A<"®!K8K!B1&L(!+,&E1,&-1&B!1:&,7-''#!-1!B0>>&,&/1!1&7+&-,-1),&*!M?JN!-/B!%:&70%-''#!+,&E1,&-1&B!501:!HDIJ!MAJN8

Figure 11. Thermal conductivity of differently processed

%-,.$/!2.&,*!B&,04&B!>,$7!?<@A<"® precursor, TP-thermal

pre-treated, CP-chemically pre-treated, C-carbonised.

Figure 10. ?:&,7-'!%$/B)%10401#!$>!%-,.$/!2.&,*!B&,04&B!from different precursors.

O!A$7+-,-104&!4-')&*!>,$7!,&>&,&/%&!P8

Table 2. =-**!#0&'B!->1&,!%-,.$/0*-10$/!>$,!B0>>&,&/1!2.&,!1#+&*!-/B!B0>>&,&/1!+,&E1,&-17&/1!+,$%&**&*(!-*!1:&,7-'!+,&E1,&-17&/1!M?JN!-/B!%:&70%-'!+,&E1,&-17&/1!MAJNV(

Figure 8. Carbonisation mass yield after thermal pre-treat-

7&/1!M?JN!-1!B0>>&,&/1!1&7+&,-1),&*8

62

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

Figure 12. SEM picture of activated ?<@A<"®.

Table 3. Mass yield and surface characteristics of activated ?<@A<"®!-/B!40*%$*&!,-#$/!2.&,*!-1!B0>>&,&/1!-%104-10$/!%$/B010$/*8

T8SCTCA>( _C>UWV(fCA?;A>( 98_;<(E( I_Y>( AL;ZA( \;9( :;IL( ICI>9A(8<(C<?9>8A>(C<(_C>UW(@Y(I;(8(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(I>TY>98-I@9>(;\(0K.c*(8<W(IL><(8(W>?9>8A>V(,L>()(I_Y>(`CA?;A>(W;>A(<;I(AL;Z(A@?L(8(?U>89(Y>8H(:@I(L8A(IL>(LCDL>AI(_C>UW(8I( 8<( ;SCW8IC;<( I>TY>98I@9>( ;\( 03.c*( 8UIL;@DL( CA( \89(:>U;Z(IL>(E(I_Y>(̀ CA?;A>V();IL(TENCEL®(I_Y>A(AL;Z(IL>(_C>UW(Y>8H(8UA;(8I(8<(;SCW8IC;<(I>TY>98I@9>(;\(03.c*(L8-`C<D(ACD<C^?8<IU_(LCDL>9(_C>UWA(?;TY89>W(I;(>CIL>9(`CA?;-A>(98_;<(I_Y>AV(,L>(LCDL>AI(T8AA(_C>UW(;\(03V4(ZId(Z8A(8II8C<>W(\;9(TENCEL®(7V7(WI>S(/A>>(8UA;(RCD@9>(42V(,L>(?L>TC?8UU_(Y9>PI9>8I>W(^:>9A(AL;Z(ACTCU89(9>A@UIA(\;9(8UU(^:>9(I_Y>A(:@I(ACD<C^?8<IU_(LCDL>9(T8AA(_C>UWA(IL8<(IL>(;SCWCA>W(^:>9A(;\(@Y(I;(71V3(ZIdV(,L>(?89:;<(?;<I><I(CA(L;Z>>9(U;Z>9(8I(-O(ZId(?;TY89>W(I;(--P1..(ZId(\;9(IL>(Y9>P;SCWCA>W(8<W(?89:;<CA>W(^:>9AV

%<( I>9TA( ;\( AI9><DIL( 8( AUCDLIU_( WC\\>9><I( YC?I@9>( 8Y-Y>89AV();IL(Y9>PI9>8IT><I( AI>YA( AL;Z(8<( C<?9>8A>( C<(I><ACU>(AI9><DILV(bCTCU89(I;(T8AA(_C>UW(8(Y>8H(8I(8(?>9-I8C<(Y9>PI9>8IT><I( I>TY>98I@9>(Z8A(T>8A@9>WV(%<( IL>(?8A>(;\(TENCEL®(7V7(WI>S( ILCA(Z8A(T>8A@9>W(8I(8<(;SCW8IC;<(I>TY>98I@9>(;\(0K.c*V(/RCD@9>(-2(*;<I989_(I;(T8AA(_C>UW(IL>(;SCW8IC`>(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(9>A@UI>W(C<(LCDL>9(I><ACU>(AI9><DIL(IL8<(IL>(?L>TC?8UU_(Y9>PI9>8I>W(

^:>9AV(g`>98UUF(IL>(I><ACU>(AI9><DIL(U>`>UA(89>(`>9_(U;Z(?;TY89>W(I;(IL;A>(8?LC>`>W(ZCIL(=E#(Y9>?@9A;9AV()@I(CI(T@AI(:>(T><IC;<>W(IL8I(IL>A>(`8U@>A(89>(ZCIL;@I(^-:>9(AI9>I?LC<D(W@9C<D(IL>(?89:;<CA8IC;<(Y9;?>AAV(gYIC-TCA8IC;<(;\(I><ACU>(AI9><DIL(CA(I;(:>(?899C>W(;@I(C<(\@-I@9>(AI@WC>AV(E(?;T:C<8IC;<(;\(?L>TC?8U(8<W(IL>9T8U(Y9>PI9>8IT><I(;\( IL>(Y9>?@9A;9A(?;@UW(8UA;(:>(8(<>SI(AI>Y(\;9(><L8<?>T><I(;\(:;ILF(T8AA(_C>UW(8A(Z>UU(8A(I><ACU>(AI9><DILV bC<DU>( ^:>9( T>8A@9>T><IA( ;\( IL>9T8U( ?;<W@?IC`CI_(AL;Z<( C<(RCD@9>(1.(D8`>(`>9_(D;;W( 9>A@UIA( \;9(TEN-CEL® :8A>W(?89:;<(^:>9A(ZCIL(9>AY>?I(I;(IL>9T8U(C<A@-U8IC;<(Y9;Y>9IC>AV(EWWCIC;<8UU_(8I(̀ >9_(LCDL(I>TY>98I@9>A(IL>9T8U( ?;<W@?IC`CI_(Z8A( AI8:U>( 8<W(WCW( <;I( C<?9>8A>V(*;TY89>W(I;(`8U@>A(\;9(=E#F(YCI?L(8<W(`CA?;A>(98_;<(W>9C`>W( ?89:;<( ^:>9A(TENCEL®( :8A>W( ?89:;<( ^:>9A(DC`>(>S?>UU><I(9>A@UIAV(!;;HC<D(T;9>(W>>YU_(8I(IL>(WC\\>-9><I(Y9;?>AA>W(TENCEL®(:8A>W(?89:;<(^:>9A( /RCD@9>(112(;<>(?8<(A>>(IL8I(IL>(WC\\>9><?>A(89>(`>9_(AT8UUV()@I(CI(A>>TA(IL8I(IL>(;SCW8IC`>(Y9>PI9>8I>W(^:>9A(Y;AA>AA(IL>(:>AI(C<A@U8IC;<(Y9;Y>9IC>A(\;9(LCDL(I>TY>98I@9>(C<A@U8IC-;<(8YYUC?8IC;<AV

E*,%fE,"](R%)"'(E#E!hb%b,8:U>( 7( AL;ZA( IL>( 9>A@UIA( \;9( IL>( 8?IC`8IC;<( I9C8UA( \;9(TENCEL®( 1VOWI>S( 8A( Z>UU( 8A( `CA?;A>( 98_;<( 1VOWI>S(:8A>W(?89:;<(^:9>AV(TENCEL®(8D8C<(DC`>A(LCDL>9(T8AA(_C>UW(`8U@>A(8<W(A>U>?IC;<(;\(IL>(:>AI(?;<WCIC;<A(W>`>-U;YA(8(T@?L(LCDL>9(A@9\8?>(89>8(IL8<(`CA?;A>(98_;<V(,L>(Y;9>A(8\I>9(8?IC`8IC;<(@<W>9(IL>(?L;A><(8?IC`8IC;<(?;<WC-IC;<A(89>(T8C<U_(TC?9;(Y;9>AV(RCD@9>(10(AL;ZA(8(b"[(TC?9;D98YL(;\(IL>(8?IC`8I>W(TENCEL®(A@9\8?>V

67

Conclusions

i<W>9(;YICTCA>W(Y9;?>AA(?;<WCIC;<AF(TENCEL®(W>UC`>9A(LCDL>9(?89:;<CA8IC;<(T8AA(_C>UWA(C<(?;TY89CA;<(I;(`CA?;-A>(98_;<(̂ :>9A(?@99><IU_(;\\>9>W(C<(IL>(T89H>IV(,LCA(?;@UW(:>(9>U8I>W(I;(IL>(LCDL>9(?9_AI8UUC<CI_F( IL>(AT;;IL>9(^:>9(A@9\8?>F( IL>( LCDL>9( ]=( ;9( IL>( U;Z>9( CTY@9CI_( U>`>U( ;\(TENCEL®V(,L>(LCDL(Y@9CI_(;\(TENCEL®(^:>9A(?8<(8UA;(9>A@UI(C<(8(?U>8<>9(Y9;?>AA(ZCIL(U;Z>9(CTY@9CI_(U;8W(C<(IL>(?89:;<CA8IC;<( >TCAAC;<A( 8<W( LCDL( Y@9CI_( Y9;W@?IAV( ,L>(IL>9T8U(Y9;Y>9IC>A(;\(TENCEL®(W>9C`>W(?89:;<(̂ :>9A(89>(>S?>UU><I(ZCIL(9>AY>?I(I;(LCDL(I>TY>98I@9>(C<A@U8IC;<V(E<(;SCW8IC`>( IL>9T8U( Y9>PI9>8IT><I( DC`>A( CTY9;`>T><IA( 8I(LCDL(I>TY>98I@9>AV(bI9><DIL(`8U@>A(;\(<;<PAI9>I?L>W(?89-:;<(̂ :>9A(W>9C`>W(\9;T(TENCEL®(89>(<;I(C<(IL>(98<D>(\;9(AI9@?I@98U( 8YYUC?8IC;<AV( EWWCIC;<8U( W>`>U;YT><I( I9C8UA(Z;@UW(L8`>( I;(:>(W;<>( C<( ILCA(^>UWV( %I(?8<(:>(A8CW( IL8I(IL>9T8U(;SCW8IC`>(8A(Z>UU(8A(?L>TC?8U(Y9>PI9>8IT><IA(><-L8<?>( I><ACU>( AI9><DIL( ;\( IL>( 9>A@UIC<D( ?89:;<( ^:>9A( I;(A;T>(>SI><IV(R;9(8YYUC?8IC;<A(C<(8?IC`8I>W(?89:;<A(TEN-CEL®( L8A(;YICT8U( ?L898?I>9CAIC?A( 8A( 8(Y9>?@9A;9V( %I( ?8<(:@CUW(@Y(LCDL(Y;9;ACI_(8I(9>8A;<8:U>(_C>UWA(W>Y><WC<D(;<(IL>(8?IC`8IC;<(Y9;?>AA(?;<WCIC;<AV(R9;T(ILCA(AI@W_(CI(?8<(:>(?;<?U@W>W(IL8I(TENCEL®(j@8UC^>A(8A(8(?89:;<CA8IC;<(Y9>?@9A;9(;@IY>9\;9TC<D(`CA?;A>(98_;<(C<(ACD<C^?8<I(8Y-YUC?8IC;<A(UCH>(LCDL(I>TY>98I@9>(C<A@U8IC;<(8<W(8?IC`8I>W(?89:;<(^:>9AV

Acknowledgements

[8<_(IL8<HA(I;(';:>9I(=@IBF(*L9CAIC8<(Rk9AI(8<W(IL>C9(I>8T(;\(IL>(l;TY>I><BB><I9@T(+;UB(&T:+(\;9(?899_C<D(;@I(IL>(;SC-W8IC;<(8<W(?89:;<CA8IC;<(I9C8UAF(T8<_(IL8<HA(8UA;(I;(!><BC<DmA(U8:(I>8T(\;9(IL>(D;;W(?;;Y>98IC;<(C<(ILCA(9>A>89?L(Z;9HV=89I(;\(ILCA(9>A>89?L(Z;9H(L8A(:>><(?899C>W(;@I(ZCILC<(8(*g%#(Y9;n>?I(8<W(Z8A(\@<W>W(:_(RR&(/oAI>99>C?LC-A?L>(R;9A?L@<DA\p9W>9@<DAD>A>UUA?L8\I2V

References [1]( G@(qVF(=8<(]VF(E(#>Z(*>UU@U;A>()8A>W(*89:;<(RC-:>9(\9;T(8(!_;?>UU(=9>?@9A;9F(,>SICU>('>AV(rV(O0/32F(0..0F(K.3PK1.[2] =><D(bVF($;@(qVF(E<(C<`>AICD8IC;<(;<(IL>(A@9\8?>(Y9;Y>9IC>A(;\(U_;?>UUP:8A>W(?89:;<(̂ :>9(ZCIL(C<`>9A>(D8A(?L9;T8I;D98YL_F(r([8I>9(b?C(0..O(K0F(6-.OP6-10([7] G@(qVF(=8<(#VF(]><D(lF(=8<]VF(,L>9T;D98`CT>I-9_PT8AA(AY>?I9;T>I9_(;<(IL>(Y_9;U_ACA(Y9;?>AA(;\(!_;-?>UU(̂ :>9A(ZCIL(8<W(ZCIL;@I(?8I8U_AIF(*89:;L_W98I>(=;U_-T>9A(O0F(0..4F(000P004[4] =><D(bVF(bL8;(+VF(+@(sVF(,L>("\\>?I(;\((=9>?@9A;9(=9;Y>9IC>A(;<(IL>(bI9><DIL(;\(IL>(*89:;<(RC:>9F(%<I>9<8-IC;<8U(r;@9<8U(;\(=;U_T>9C?([8I>9C8UA(37F(0..KF(6.1P6.4

[5] =><D(bVF(bL8;(+VF(+@(sVF(!_;?>UU(RC:>9A(8A(IL>(=9>-?@9A;9( ;\(*89:;<( RC:>9AF( r;@9<8U( ;\(EYYUC>W( =;U_T>9(b?C><?>F(f;UV(-.F(0..7F(1-K1P1-KO[6] =8AI;9( EV*VF( ';W9CD@>BP'>C<;A;( RVF( [89AL( +VF([89IC<>B([VEVF(=9>Y898IC;<(;\(8?IC`8I>W(?89:;<(?U;ILA(\9;T(`CA?;@A( 98_;<V(=89I( %V(*89:;<CB8IC;<(Y9;?>W@9>AF(*89:;<(7OF(1---F(10O3P1047[7] =98W>9>(*VF()8IA8U>(rV*VF(&;_Lt<u?L>(rV[VF(=8CUU>9('VF(]CUL8C9>(bVF(,L>9T8U(Y9;Y>9IC>A(;\(?89:;<(^:>9A(8I(`>9_(LCDL(I>TY>98I@9>F(*89:;<(0..4F(W;CM1.V1.16enV?89-:;<V0..4V11V.13[8] =8AI;9(V*VF(';W9CD@>BP'>C<;A;(RVF([89AL(+VF([89-IC<>B([VEVF(=9>Y898IC;<(;\(8?IC`8I>W(?89:;<(?U;ILA(\9;T(`CA?;@A(98_;<V(=89I(%V(*89:;<CB8IC;<(Y9;?>W@9>AF(*89:;<(7OF(1---F(10O3P1047[9] bI8IL>9;Y;@U;A( [VF( l_9C8H;@( bVEVF( q@8<ICI8IC`>(IL>9T;D98`CT>I9C?PT8AA(AY>?I9;T>I9C?(8<8U_ACA(\;9(T;-<CI;9C<D(IL>(>\\>?IA(;\(̂ 9>(9>I89W8<IA(;<(?>UU@U;A>(Y_9;U_-ACAF(E<8U_IC?8(*LCTC?8(E?I8(K.-F(0...F(0.7P01K[1.] =98W>9>(*VF()8IA8U>(rV*VF(&;_Lt<u?L>(rV[VF(=8CUU>9('VF(]CUL8C9>(bVF(,L>9T8U(Y9;Y>9IC>A(;\(?89:;<(^:>9A(8I(`>9_(LCDL(I>TY>98I@9>F(*89:;<(0..4F(W;CM1.V1.16enV?89-:;<V0..4V11V.13

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(61

64

789:;<=(+,(5(=>?(@A=AB?(;@(>8C>(D?B@;BEF<:?(G89:;9?(HIFE?<=9(F<J(=>?8B(=?K=8I?(FDDI8:F=8;<9

Bernhard Müller*, Martin Gebert-Germ and Axel Russler

&IF<L9=;@@(%<JA9=B8?9M(+?BL;C?<NABC?B(O=BF99?(3-M(PQR1..(O=S(TUI=?<M(PA9=B8F"QEF8IV(EA?II?BWCIF<L9=;@@S:;E

Abstract

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®(]'S

Introduction

,>?(J?EF<J(@;B(EF<QEFJ?QHN?B9(89(9=?FJ8IX(CB;Y8<CS(!;;Z8<C(F=(=>?(X?FBIX(DB;JA:=8;<(G;IAE?(;@(9X<=>?=8:(HIFE?<=9(N?=Y??<(1--0(F<J(0..-(F(:;ED;A<J(F<<AFI(CB;Y=>(BF=?(/*P&'2(;@(6S4^(YF9(9??<(_1`S(*;==;<(>FJ(8<(=>?(9FE?(D?B8;J(F(*P&'(;@(;<IX(1S0^(Y8=>(F(98C-

<8H:F<=(J?:B?F9?(@B;E(0..6(;<YFBJ9S(789:;9?(F9(=>?(a;IJ?9=b(EF<QEFJ?QHN?B(>F9(9??<(F(9=?FJX(8<:B?F98<C(J?EF<J(@;B(9=FDI?(HN?B9M(?9D?:8FIIX(8<(=>?(HB9=(J?:FJ?(

;@( =>?( <?Y(E8II?<<8AES(,>?( 9>FB?( ;@( G89:;9?( 9=FDI?(HN?B9(;@(=>?(=;=FI(HN?B(DB;JA:=8;<(YF9(4Sc^(8<(0..-S(%=(89(?KD?:=?J(=>F=(=>?(J?EF<J(@;B(:?IIAI;9?(NF9?J(H-

N?B9(Y8=>(=>?8B(A<8dA?(DB;D?B=8?9(Y8II(8<:B?F9?M(98<:?(:;==;<( DB;JA:=8;<( :F<<;=( Z??D( AD( Y8=>( =>?( FG?BFC?(HN?BQ*P&'(;@(FDDB;K8EF=?IX(4Sc^(A<=8I(0.R.S(,>?(B?9AI=8<C(CFD(89(Z<;Y<(F9(=>?(a:;==;<(CFDbS((

Figure 1.!"#$%&'!()&$)*&+!,-&$./

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65

%<(:;<=BFBX(=;(G89:;9?(9=FNI?(HN?B9M(=>?(G89:;9?(HIF-E?<=(DB;JA:=8;<(F<J(EFBZ?=(9>FB?(>F9(98C<8H:F<=IX( J?:B?F9?J(;G?B(=>?(IF9=(0.(X?FB9S(,>89(E8C>=(N?(JA?(=;( :>F<C8<C( :A9=;E?B( >FN8=9( ;<( =>?( ;<?( >F<J( ;B( F(IF:Z(;@( 8<<;GF=8;<9(;<(=>?(;=>?BS(e>8I?(=>?(8<:B?F-98<C(FYFB?<?99(;@(I8E8=?J(B?9;AB:?9(>F9(9D?J(AD(=>?(J?G?I;DE?<=( ;@( EAI=8Q@A<:=8;<FI( EF<QEFJ?QHN?B9(DB;JA:?J( @B;E( B?C?<?BF=8G?( 9;AB:?9( 8<( C?<?BFI( ?9-D?:8FIIX(9=FDI?(HN?B9M(>FBJIX(F<X( 8EDB;G?E?<=(>F9(N??<( B?D;B=?J( @;B( =?K=8I?( G89:;9?( EAI=8QHIFE?<=9([2]S(f<?(EFg;B(?K:?D=8;<(89(=>?(8<=B;JA:=8;<(;@(>8C>(9D??J(:;<=8<A;A9(9D8<<8<C( =?:><;I;C8?9S(,>?B?@;B?(=>?(;G?BG8?Y(NX(#8<;Y(F<J(+?8J?<B?8:>(B?CFBJ8<C(DB;D?B=8?9(;@(G89:;9?(HIFE?<=9M(FI=>;AC>(DANI89>?J(8<(1--.(89(9=8II(GFI8J(=;(;AB(=8E?(_R`S(f<?(;@(=>?8B(DB?-J8:=8;<9(YF9( =>F=( G89:;9?(HIFE?<=9( FB?( <;=( FNI?( =;(:;ED?=?(Y8=>(=>?(=?<F:8=X(F<J(J8E?<98;<FI(9=FN8I8=X(;@(9X<=>?=8:(HN?B9S(

%<(=>89(DFD?B(8=(Y8II(N?(J?E;<9=BF=?JM(=>F=(8=(89(D;998NI?(=;(DB;JA:?(EAI=8QHIFE?<=(XFB<9(@;B(=?K=8I?(DABD;9?9(Y8=>(F(>8C>?B(JBX( =?<F:8=X( =>F<(:;EDFBFNI?(D;IX?9=?BQXFB<9(Y>8I?(Z??D8<C(=>?(@AII(BF<C?(;@(DB;D?B=8?9(G89:;9?(89(Y?II(Z<;Y<(@;BS(%<(FJJ8=8;<(F(@AB=>?B(J?G?I;DE?<=M(F(D?BEF-

<?<=(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(EAI=8QHIFE?<=(XFB<(Y8=>(=>?(=BFJ?(<FE?(789:;<=®(]'

2(Y8II(N?(J89:A99?J(8<(E;B?(J?=F8IS((((

History of Viscont®

789:;<=®(89(=>?(NBF<J(<FE?(@;B(G89:;9?(EAI=8QHIFE?<=9(DB;JA:?J(NX(&IF<L9=;@@Q);>?E8F(9SBS;SM(F(E?EN?B(;@(&IF<L9=;@@(%<JA9=B8?9M(?9D?:8FIIX(J?98C<?J(@;B(>8C>?<J(=?K=8I?(FDDI8:F=8;<9S(

%<( @;BE?B( =8E?9( G89:;9?( ;B( BFX;<(YF9( FI9;( Z<;Y<(A<-J?B( =>?(9X<;<XE(a&IF<L9=;@@b( B?@?BB8<C( =;( =>?(98IZ( I8Z?(NB8C>=<?99(;@(=>?(HB9=(EF<QEFJ?QHN?B(DB;JA:?J(8<(NAIZS(,>?B?@;B?( =>?( HB9=( G89:;9?( DB;JA:?B9( 8<( &?BEF<X( F<J(PA9=B8F(>FJ(&IF<L9=;@@(8<(=>?8B(:;EDF<X(<FE?(Y>?<(=>?X(Y?B?(@;A<J?J(F=(=>?(=AB<(;@(=>?(IF9=(:?<=ABXS(#;YFJFX9(&IF<L9=;@@Q);>?E8F(9SBS;S(89(=>?(IF9=(B?EF8<8<C(;@(=>?9?(D8;<??B9(Y8=>(=>89(B?E8<89:?<:?(8<(8=9(:;EDF<X(<FE?S(,>?(J?G?I;DE?<=(;@(789:;<=®(YF9(9=FB=?J(F=(&IF<L9=;@@(PA9=B8F( 8<( 0..3(;<(D8I;=( 9:FI?( F<J( @AB=>?B( J?G?I;D?J(8<(&IF<L9=;@@Q);>?E8F( 9SBS;S( @B;E(N?C8<<8<C(;@(0..-(;<YFBJ9S(h?9D8=?(J?:FJ?9(;@(?KD?B8?<:?(8<(=>?(DB;JA:-=8;<(;@(BFX;<(@;B(B?8<@;B:?E?<=(FDDI8:F=8;<9(;<(=>?(;<?(>F<JM(F<J(Z<;YQ>;Y(;@(9D8<<8<C(9=F<JFBJQ(F<J(E8:B;Q

Figure 2.!0$&#%*12!3($4&!4(15*'*(1&5!#15!+&'!(3!6*.4(1'789!:;!#15!('<&$!=#$1./

Table 1. Currently available yarns counts Viscont® HT together with some physical parameters.

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66

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Viscont® - General features

,>?(@?F=AB?9(;@(789:;<=®(FB?(F9(@;II;Y9V!( >8C>Q=?<F:8=X(BFX;<(EAI=8QHIFE?<=!( aG89:;9?(I8Z?b(Y?FB8<C(:;E@;B=!( C?<=I?(=;(=>?(9Z8<!( NB?F=>FNI?!( FGF8IFNI?(@B;E(XFB<(:;A<=(36(=;(044.!( N8;J?CBFJFNI?!( C;;J(=;(?K:?II?<=(JX8<C(DB;D?B=8?9

!"#$%&'()*"&+,-)+.(,/01&"21)/'(&Viscont® HT

,>?( HB9=( :;EE?B:8FIIX( FGF8IFNI?( DB;JA:=( DB;JA:?J(Y8=>(=>?(<?Y(9D8<<8<C(DB;:?99(89(789:;<=®(+,S(+,(89(=>?(F:B;<XE(@;B(>8C>(=?<F:8=X(F<J(B?@?B9(=;(;<?(;@(=>?(;A=9=F<J8<C(DB;D?B=8?9(;@(=>89(<?Y(EAI=8QHIFE?<=(HN?BS(,FNI?(1(C8G?9(F<(;G?BG8?Y(;@(=>?(:ABB?<=IX( FGF8IFNI?( XFB<( :;A<=9( =;C?=>?B( Y8=>( 9;E?(=?:><8:FI(DFBFE?=?B9S(789:;<=®(+,(>F9(N??<(f"ifQ,?K(IFN?I?JS

Breaking force conditioned and wet

%<(:;EDFB89;<(=;(a9=F<JFBJb(G89:;9?(HIFE?<=9(=>?(=?-<F:8=X(:;<J8=8;<?J(;@(789:;<=®(+,(89(FIE;9=(=Y8:?(F9(>8C>S(e>8I?( =>?(CAFBF<=??J(E8<8EAE(=?<F:8=X(:;<JS(89(R3(:#[=?KM( =>?( FG?BFC?( =?<F:8=X( :;<JS( 89(4.( =;(40(:#[=?K( =>?B?NX( 9ABDF998<C(?G?<(D;IX?9=?B(XFB<9( /9??(]8CAB?(02S(#?K=(=;(=>?(NB?FZ8<C(@;B:?(8<(:;<J8=8;<?J(9=F=?M(=>?(Y?=(=?<F:8=X(89(;@(9D?:8FI(8<=?B?9=S(%<(]8CAB?(0(=>?(GFIA?9(@;B(GFB8;A9(EF=?B8FI9(FB?(:;EDFB?JS(%<(C?<?BFI(=>89(>F9(N??<(F(9>;B=:;E8<C(;@(G89:;9?(NF9?J(HN?B9M(NA=(?G?<(@;B(=>?(H-<?9=(XFB<(:;A<=(Q(789:;<=®(+,(11.(J=?K(@3.(Q(=>?(Y?=(=?<F-:8=X(@;A<J(89(E;B?(=>F<(0.:#[=?KS(,>?(NB?FZ8<C(@;B:?(;@(F(9=F<JFBJ(G89:;9?(HIFE?<=(@;B(?KFEDI?(89(N?I;Y(1.:#[=?K(F<J(?G?<(F(:;EDFBFNI?(:;==;<(XFB<(89(0c^(I;Y?BS(,>?(Y?=(=?<F:8=X(;@(>8C>?B(XFB<(:;A<=9(9A:>(F9(789:;<=® HT

0..(J=?K(@11.(89(;<(FG?BFC?(FN;G?(0c:#[=?KS(,>89(GFIA?(89(9=8II(I;Y?B(=>F<(:;EDFBFNI?(D;IX?9=?B(HIFE?<=9(;@(E;B?(=>F<(R.:#[=?KM(NA=(NX( @FB(>8C>?B( =>F<(F<X(G89:;9?(HIF-E?<=(:;EE?B:8FIIX(FGF8IFNI?(@;B(=?K=8I?(FDDI8:F=8;<9S((h?9D8=?( =>?( >8C>( =?<F:8=X( =>?(YF=?B( B?=?<=8;<( F::;B-J8<C(=;(h%#(cRj14V1-64(89(9=8II(aG89:;9?( I8Z?b(>8C>S(];B(?KFEDI?(=>?(YF=?BQB?=?<=8;<(@;B(789:;<=®(+,(136(J=?K( @-0( 89( RjS6M( Y>8I?( F( 9=F<JFBJ( G89:;9?( HIFE?<=(Y8=>(:;EDFBFNI?(XFB<(:;A<=(;@(136(J=?K(@63(>F9(c4S-S(,>?(9I8C>=IX(J?:B?F9?J(FN8I8=X( =;(B?=F8<(YF=?B(>F9(<;(<?CF=8G?(8EDF:=(;<(=>?(Y?FB8<C(:;E@;B=S(%<(:;<=BFBX(

=>89(@?F=AB?(>F9(N??<(C?<?BFI(FDDB?:8F=?J(NX(=?K=8I?(J?-G?I;D?B9(/9??(]8CAB?(R2S(

Figure 5. Cross section of standard textile viscose produ-

ced by Glanzstoff Austria.

Figure 4. Cross section of Viscont® HT produced by

Glanzstoff Bohemia s.r.o.

Figure 6. Comparison of abrasion according to Martindale

between Viscont®!:;!#15!.'#15#$5!)*.4(.&!,>#?&1'/

Figure 3. Water-retention Viscont® HT versus standard

)*.4(.&!,>#?&1'/

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(61

67

Cross section

,>?(:B;99(9?:=8;<(;@(789:;<=®(+,(:;EDFB?J(Y8=>(9=F<-JFBJ(G89:;9?(B?G?FI9(F<;=>?B(:;<9?dA?<:?(;@(=>?(<?Y(9D8<<8<C( =?:><;I;CXS(e>8I?( =>?( 9=F<JFBJ( =?K=8I?( G89-:;9?(>F9(=>?(Y?IIQZ<;Y<(9?BBF=?J(9AB@F:?(/]8CAB?(c2M(789:;<=®(+,(>F9( F(G?BX( 9E;;=>(F<J( B?CAIFB( 9AB@F:?(/]8CAB?(42S(,>?(FDD?FBF<:?(89(98IZ(I8Z?(F<J(89(:;EDF-BFNI?(F<J(FIE;9=(98E8IFB(Y8=>(=;(G89:;9?(DB;JA:?J(NX(=>?(*ADB;KFEQDB;:?99S(

Abrasion

P<;=>?B( GFIA?( FJJ8<C( DB;D?B=X( @;B( >8C>( ?<J( =?K=8-I?( FDDI8:F=8;<9( 89( =>?( FNBF98;<( N?>FG8;B( ;@(789:;<=®

+,S(%<(:;EDFB89;<(Y8=>(F(9=F<JFBJ(=?K=8I?(BFX;<(XFB<M(9A:>(F9(136(J=?K(@63(DB;JA:?J(8<(&IF<L9=;@@(PA9=B8F(=>?( FNBF98;<(E?F9AB?J( F::;BJ8<C( =;(kFB=8<JFI?( %Of(10-46[0V1---(89(4(=8E?9(>8C>?BS(,>89(dAFJBADI8:F=8;<(9??E9(=;(N?(F(:;<9?dA?<:?(;@(=>?(FACE?<=?J(:BX9=FII8-<?(B?C8;<9(;N=F8<?J(NX(=>?(789:;<=®(9D8<<8<C(DB;:?99S(

Figure 7. Comparison of tenacity between Viscont®!@8!#15!('<&$!A#?&!$&'#$5#1'!=#$1./

Figure 8. B(?C#$*.(1!(3!.=1'<&'*4!,-&$.!D.&5!*1!'<&!EEF!?#$%&'!'(5#=!)&$.D.!6*.4(1'® FR.

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(61

68

3'-/)('(&,4)/',-'&)-5)(&,-)+.(,/01&"21)/'(&,6"7*.(&® FR

,>?(<??J(@;B(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(@FNB8:9(>F9(N??<(9=?FJ8IX(8<-:B?F98<C(;G?B(=>?(IF9=(X?FB9S(("9D?:8FIIX(D?BEF<?<=(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(XFB<9(FB?(;@(>8C>(8<=?B?9=S(,>?B?(FB?(F(<AEN?B(;@(Y?IIQ?9=FNI89>?J(9X<=>?=8:(HN?B(DB;JA:=9(FGF8IFNI?M(NA=(9;(@FB(F(D?BEF<?<=(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(EAI=8QHIFE?<=(NF9?J(;<(:?IIAI;9?(A98<C(<;<(>FI;C?<M(;BCF<8:(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(9AN9=F<:?9(YF9(<;=(:;EE?B:8FIIX(FGF8IFNI?S

The Production Process

,>?( DB;JA:=8;<( ;@( D?BEF<?<=( \FE?( B?=FBJF<=( BFX;<(9=FDI?(HN?B9(89(Y?IIQZ<;Y<(F<J(>F9(N??<(J?9:B8N?J(8<(I8=?BF=AB?( N?@;B?( [4]S(e>8I?( 9;E?( :>FII?<C?9( 8<( DB;-

JA:=8;<(;@(9=FDI?(HN?B9(F<J(HIFE?<=9(FB?(98E8IFBM(=>?(EF8<(J8@@?B?<:?(B?9AI=9( @B;E(=>?(a?<JI?99b(<F=AB?(;@(HIFE?<=S("G?BX(J?G8F=8;<( 8<( =>?(DB;JA:=8;<(DFBFE?-=?B9( 9A:>( F9( G89:;98=X( ;@( =>?( 9D8<<8<C( G89:;9?M( L8<:(:;<=?<=(8<(=>?(9D8<<8<C(NF=>M(YF9>8<C(YF=?B(F<J(=?E-

Figure 9. E*>>*12!5&'&$?*1&5!3($!%1*''&5!3#-$*4!+*'<!GHHI!6*.4(1'®!@8!#15!#!%1*''&5!3#-$*4!?#5&!(3!GJG!?*K'D$&!6*.4(1'®

@8!#15!)*.4(.&!@8!.'#C>&!,-&$/!

Figure 10. Comparison between different fabrics made of of Viscont®!@8!,>#?&1'!#15!#!4D$$&1'>=!D.&5!4(1.'$D4'*(1!*1!,$&!

,2<'&$!L#4%&'./

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(61

69

D?BF=AB?(F<J(H<FIIX(JBX8<C(>FG?(F<( 8<\A?<:?(;<( =>?(FDD?FBF<:?( ;@( =>?( HIFE?<=( F<J( :F<( :FA9?( ;@@QCBFJ?(dAFI8=XS

,>?B?@;B?(;<?(Z?X( =;(DB;JA:?(789:;<=®(]'(;<( IFBC?(9:FI?(89(F(G?BX(DB?:89?(B?CAIF=8;<(;@(=>?(9D8<<8<C(DF-BFE?=?B9(=;(?<9AB?(E8<8EAE(:;I;B(J8@@?B?<:?9(;<(=>?(;<?(>F<J(F<J(F(G?BX(I;Y(<AEN?B(;@(NB?FZFC?9(;<(=>?(;=>?BS(,;( ;N=F8<( =>?( D?BEF<?<=( \FE?( B?=FBJF<=( DB;-D?B=8?9(8=(89(<?:?99FBX(=;(>;E;C?<?;A9IX(8<:;BD;BF=?(AD(=;(00(Y[Y^(;@(=>?(D>;9D>;B(NF9?J(:;ED;A<J(8<(=>?(G89:;9?(EF=B8KS(,>89(>8C>(FE;A<=(;@(=>?(DFB=8:I?9(aJ89BAD=b(=>?(>8C>IX(;BJ?B?J(:?IIAI;9?(EF=B8K(=>?B?NX(J?:B?F98<C(=>?(=?<F:8=X(NX(FDDB;K8EF=?IX(0.^(=;(R.^(:;EDFB?J(=;(F(<;<Q\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(HIFE?<=S(P<;=>?B(Z?X(89(F(<?YIX(J?G?I;D?J(:;I;B(J;98<C(J?G8:?(?<FNI8<C( =>?(DB?:89?(FJJ8=8;<(;@(\FE?( B?=FBJF<=(J89-D?B98;<(8<=;(=>?(G89:;9?(9=B?FE(N?@;B?(9D8<<8<CS(,>?(E?J8AE(98L?(;@(=>?(DFB=8:I?9(8<(=>?(J89D?B98;<(>F9(=;(N?(N?I;Y(1(lES(*BA:8FI(@;B(=>?(>;E;C?<?;A9(J89=B8-NA=8;<(FB?( =>?( @F:8I8=F=?J(J89D?BCF=;B9M(;=>?BY89?( =>?(9D8<<8<C(DB;:?99(:F<(N?(F<J(89(J89=ABN?J(NX(B?FCCI;-

E?BF=8;<S(

,>?(9D8<<8<C(DB;:?99(;@(789:;<=®(]'(89(F(:;<=8<A;A9(;<?S(P@=?B(=>?(F:8J8:(:;FCAIF=8;<(NF=>(=>?(XFB<(89(9=B?=-:>?J(8<(F(9?:;<J(NF=>M(N?@;B?(8=(89(YF9>?JM(JB8?J(F<J(Y;A<J(ADS(,>?(XFB<(89(B?CAIFBIX(:>?:Z?J(Y8=>(=>?(E?-=>XI(;BF<C?(=;(EFZ?(9AB?(=>F=(=>?(XFB<(89(@B??(;@(F<X(

F:8J8:( :;<=FE8<F=8;<S( %<( FJJ8=8;<( F( 9=B8:=( 9?DFBF=8;<(N?=Y??<(=>?(;D?BF=;B9(;@(=>?(F:8J8:(aY?=b(F<J(<?A=BFI(aJBXb( 98J?( 89( ?K?:A=?JS( %=( =FZ?9( I?99( =>F<( R(E8<A=?9(@B;E(=>?(9D8<<?B?=(=;(=>?(H<FIM(A<=Y89=?J(XFB<S(h?D?<-J8<C(;<(=>?(XFB<(:;A<=(=>?(9D8<<8<C(9D??J(;@(789:;<=®

]'(GFB8?9(NA=( 89( 8<(C?<?BFI(9I;Y?B( =>F<(@;B(789:;<=®

+,S(

Tenacity

,>?(=?<F:8=X(:;<J8=8;<?J(;@(=>?(A<=Y89=?J(XFB<(89(8<(F(BF<C?(;@(03(=;(R4(:#[=?KS(e>8I?(=>89(89(I;Y?B(=>F<(=>?(=?<F:8=X( ;@(789:;<=®(+,M( 8=( 89( 9=8II( >8C>?B( =>F<(E;9=(DAB:>F9FNI?( ;BJ8<FBX( =?K=8I?( G89:;9?( HIFE?<=9S( ,>?(Y?=( =?<F:8=X( 89( B;AC>IX(c.^(;@( =>?( :;<J8=8;<?J(;<?(F<J(I8?9(N?=Y??<(1R(F<J(0.(:#[=?KS(O=F<JFBJ(G89:;9?(>F9(8<(C?<?BFI(F(Y?=(=?<F:8=X(N?I;Y(1.(:#[=?KS(%<(:;E-

DFB89;<(=;(:;==;<M(=>?(Y?=(=?<F:8=X(;@(789:;<=®(]'(89(9=8II(E;B?(=>F<(0.^(>8C>?BS(,>89(;@@?B9(<?Y(D;998N8I8-=8?9(=;(Z<8==?B9(F<J(Y?FG?B9(=;(DB;JA:?(I8C>=?B(@FNB8:9M(98<:?(=>?(E?:>F<8:FI(9=B?<C=>(;@(=>?(XFB<(89(>8C>?BS

,>?(=?<F:8=X(;@(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(D;IX?9=?B(XFB<(89(9A-

D?B8;B( =;(789:;<=®(]'S()A=(98<:?(789:;<=®(]'(89(<;=(F(=>?BE;DIF9=8:(8=(J;?9(<;=(E?I=(A<J?B(=>?BEFI(9=B?99(I8Z?( D;IX?9=?B( J;?9S( ,>8<Z8<C( ;@( FDDI8:F=8;<9( I8Z?( I8<?B9(=>89(89(F(N8C(FJGF<=FC?(;G?B(@FNB8:9(EFJ?(;@(D;-IX?9=?BS(%<(FJJ8=8;<(BFX;<(>F9(F(EA:>(N?==?B(E;89=AB?(AD=FZ?(F<J(Y?FB8<C(:;E@;B=(=>F<(D;IX?9=?BS(

Figure 11. B(?C#$*.(1!(3!'<&!<('!+#'&$!.<$*1%#2&!-&'+&&1!.'#15#$5!'&K'*>&!)*.4(.&!#15!6*.4(1'M!@8!()&$!NH!+#.<*12!

cycles.

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(61

70

#AE?B;A9( TT"QFDDI8:F=8;<9( A9?( #;E?K®( NX( hA-

T;<=®S(,>?B?@;B?( 8=(>F9(N?:;E?(F(N?<:>EFBZ(Y8=>8<(=>?(EFBZ?=S(%<(:;EDFB89;<(Y8=>(#;E?K®(HIFE?<=(0..(J=?K( @63( =>?(NB?FZ8<C( @;B:?(:;<J8=8;<?J(;@(789:;<=®

]'(136(J=?K(@-0(89(;<(=>?(9FE?(I?G?IS(P(9AEEFBX(;@(=>?(B?9AI=9(89(C8G?<(8<(]8CAB?(6S

Fluffs

P( :B8=8:FI( DFBFE?=?B( @;B( =?K=8I?( FDDI8:F=8;<9( ;@( HIF-E?<=9(89(=>?(<AEN?B(;@(\A@@9[NB?FZFC?9(D?B(ZC(XFB<S(,>89(YF9(;<?(;@( =>?(N8CC?9=(:>FII?<C?9( 8<( =>?(J?G?-I;DE?<=(;@(789:;<=®(]'(98<:?(F(I;=(;@(DFBFE?=?B9(:F<(:FA9?(NB?FZFC?9(;@(:FD8IIFB8?9S( %<(C?<?BFI( 8=(YF9(<?-:?99FBX(=;(H<J(F(NFIF<:?(N?=Y??<(9D8<<8<C(9D??JM(DFB-=8:I?(98L?(;@( =>?(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=M(9=B?=:>8<CM(9D8<<8<C(NF=>(=?ED?BF=AB?(F<J(:FD8IIFBX(=8=?BS(P::;BJ8<C(=;(;AB(B?9?FB:>( :FD8IIFBX( =8=?B9( N?I;Y( 1Sj( J=?K( FB?( <;=( 9A8-=?J(=;(F:>8?G?(F::?D=FNI?(\A@@(GFIA?9(@;B(XFB<(:;A<=9(N?I;Y(4..(J=?KS(%<(C?<?BFI(=>?(DB;JA:=8;<[9D8<<8<C(;@(H<?(=8=?B9(I8Z?(11.(J=?K(@43M(Y>8:>(89(=>?(H<?9=(XFB<(:;A<=(:;EE?B:8FIIX(;@@?B?J(X?=M(89(E;B?(J8@H:AI=(=>F<(=>?( 9D8<<8<C( ;@( >?FG8?B( XFB<( :;A<=9( 9A:>( F9( c..( ;B(044.S(*ABB?<=IX(Y?(FB?(J?G?I;D8<C(XFB<(:;A<=(36(F<J(j4(;<(D8I;=( 9:FI?( F<J(DA9>( =>?( I8E8=9( @;B( D?BEF<?<=(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(G89:;9?(HIFE?<=9(?G?<(@AB=>?BS(

Limited Oxygen Index (LOI)

P<;=>?B( 8ED;B=F<=( @?F=AB?( @;B( \FE?( B?=FBJF<=( XFB<9(F<J(@FNB8:9(89(=>?(!8E8=(;@(fKXC?<(%<J?K(/!f%2S(,>89(GFIA?(Q(J?9D8=?(N?8<C(F<(8<JA9=BX(9=F<JFBJ(Q(>;Y?G?B(89(9I8C>=IX(E89I?FJ8<CM(98<:?(<;=(=>?(XFB<(8=9?I@(NA=(;<IX(@FNB8:9(EFJ?(;A=(;@(=>?(XFB<(/Z<8==?J(;B(Y?FG?J2(FB?(=?9=?JS(%<(FJJ8=8;<M(=>?(E;B?(;D?<(=>?(@FNB8:(89(F<J(=>?(H<?B(=>?(XFB<(:;A<=(89M(=>?(?F98?B(8=(NAB<9S(,>?(:;<9?-dA?<:?(89(=>F=(Z<8==?J(@FNB8:9(8<(C?<?BFI(>FG?(F(I;Y?B(!f%( GFIA?( =>F<( Y?FG?J( ;<?9S( ,>?B?@;B?( FJJ8=8;<FI(=?9=(E?=>;J9(Y?B?(J?G?I;D?J(@;B(:;EDFB89;<M(9A:>(F9(G?B=8:FI(\FE?(=?9=9S

,>?(!f%(;@(789:;<=®(]'(89(FN;G?(03(F<J(;<(FG?BFC?(0j(@;B(FII(XFB<(:;A<=9S(,>89(:;EDFB?9(@FG;BFNIX(Y8=>(;=>?B(9X<=>?=8:(]'(HN?B9(5(HIFE?<=(F<J(9=FDI?(HN?B(Q(=>F=(FB?(A9?J(8<(=>?(TT"(EFBZ?=(=;JFX(/9??(]8CAB?(j2

Utilization

789:;<=®( ]'( HIFE?<=( BFX;<( @FNB8:( >F9( N??<( Y;G?<(;B(Z<8==?J(@;B(F(GFB8?=X(;@(FDDI8:F=8;<9M(E??=9(J8G?B9?(9D?:8H:F=8;<9(F<J(DF99?9(=>?(B?dA8B?E?<=9(;@(?SCS("#(%Of(11310S(]FNB8:(Y?8C>=9(>FG?( BF<C?J( @B;E(13.C[m2( F<J(AD(Y8=>( @AII(]'(:;EDI8F<:?(Y>?<( =?9=?J( @;B(?KFEDI?( NX(PO,k(h( 341RM( G?B=8:FI( \FE?( =?9=(E?-

=>;JS()?98J?(=>?(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(DB;D?B=8?9(F(<AEN?B(;@(=?K=8I?(DFBFE?=?B9(FB?(;@(8ED;B=F<:?(9A:>(F9(D8II8<C(F<J(9=B?<C=>S

Pilling

,;(@AB=>?B(GFI8JF=?(=>?(D8II8<C(;@(789:;<=®(]'(HIFE?<=(=Y;( @FNB8:9( Y?B?( =?9=?JS( ]FNB8:( 1( YF9( Z<8==?J( Y8=>(1..^(789:;<=®( ]'( HIFE?<=( 0..( J=?K( @63( O-.( F<J(>FJ(F(@FNB8:(Y?8C>=(;@(0..C[E2S(]FNB8:(0(>FJ(F(@FN-

B8:(Y?8C>=( ;@( 0.cC[E2( F<J(YF9(Z<8==?JM( =;;S( %<9=?FJ(;@(1..^(HIFE?<=(;<IX(c.^(;@(789:;<=(]'(0..(J=?K(@(63(O(1j.(F<J(c.(^(]'(789:;9?Q9=FD?IQHN?B(0.(=?K[1(YF9(FDDI8?JS

h?9D8=?( F( :;EDFBFNI?( Y?8C>=( F<J( :;<9=BA:=8;<M( =>?(D8II8<C(N?>FG8;B(F::;BJ8<C(=;(%Of(10-4cQ0(/E;J8H?J(kFB=8<JFI?(E?=>;J2(89(J8@@?B?<=(F9(?KD?:=?J(J8@@?B?<=S(e>8I?(@FNB8:(0(9>;Y9(98C<8H:F<=(D8II8<C(Y8=>(F(I;FJ(;@(1ccC(F@=?B(c..(=AB<9(@FNB8:(1(89(FIE;9=(A<F@@?:=?JS(%=(89(Y?II(Z<;Y<(=>F=(F(HIFE?<=(:F<(B?989=(=>?(E?:>F<8:FI(FNBF98;<( N?==?B( =>F<( 9=FDI?( HN?B( XFB<9M( >;Y?G?B( =>?(G?BX( I;Y(D8II8<C( F@=?B( 6...( =AB<9( @;A<J( @;B( @FNB8:(1(YF9(A<?KD?:=?JS(

Strength

O8<:?(EF<X(X?FB9( ?<J(A9?B9(;@(D?B9;<<?I(DB;=?:=8;<(?dA8DE?<=( FB?( F9Z8<C( @;B( I8C>=?B( @FNB8:9S( ,>89( C;FI(:F<(N?( F:>8?G?J(DB8EFB8IX(Y8=>(H<?B(XFB<( :;A<=9(;B(a9EFB=?Bb( :;<9=BA:=8;<9S( );=>( 9;IA=8;<9( >FG?( =>?8B( I8E8=F=8;<9S(

789:;<=®( ]'( @8IFE?<=( F<J( 789:;<=®( +,( @8IFE?<=(C8G?(=?K=8I?(J?G?I;D?B9(F(<?Y(;DD;B=A<8=X(=;(B?JA-

:?(Y?8C>=M(=>F<Z9(=;(=>?8B(>8C>(=?<F:8=X(DB;D?B=8?9S(,;( J?E;<9=BF=?( =>?( D;=?<=8FI( F( @?Y( @FNB8:9( Y8=>(789:;<=®(]'(@8IFE?<=(Y?B?(:;EDFB?J(Y8=>(F<(?K89-=8<C(@FNB8:(EFJ?(;@(F(9=FDI?(@8N?B(NI?<J(A9?J(8<(@8B?(@8C>=?B(gF:Z?=9S

,>?(B?@?B?<:?(EF=?B8FI(>F9(F(@FNB8:(Y?8C>=(;@(0-.C[m2(F<J(9=B?<C=>(/YFBD[Y?@=2(;@(1104[-.j(#S(]FNB8:(0( 89(R.^( I8C>=?B( F<J(Y?8C>9(;<IX(00cC[E2S(+;Y-

?G?B( =>?(9=B?<C=>( 89(1-^(>8C>?B( 8<(YFBD(F<J(0-^(>8C>?B(8<(Y?@=S(]FNB8:(1(Y?8C>9(;<IX(13.(C[E2S(,>89(FJJ9( AD( =;( j.^(Y?8C>=( B?JA:=8;<( :;EDFB?J(Y8=>(=>?( B?@?B?<:?( @FNB8:S( O=AD?<J;A9IX( =>?( 9=B?<C=>(89(;<IX(j^( I;Y?B( 8<(Y?@=( F<J(0c^( 8<(YFBD(Y>8I?(N?8<C( 8<( @AII( :;EDI8F<:?(Y8=>( =>?( @IFE?( B?=FBJF<=(DB;D?B=8?9S((

]FNB8:(R(89(=>?(>?FG8?9=(;@(=>?(9FEDI?(@FNB8:9(F=(RR4(C[m2S(,>?(9=B?<C=>(>;Y?G?B(89(NX(@FB(>8C>?B(=>F<(=>?(NX(

61

1c^(8<:B?F9?J(Y?8C>=S(,>?(GFIA?9(@;A<J(@;B(=>?(YFBD(Y?B?(0R4c#(:;BB?9D;<J8<C(Y8=>(F(11.^(8<:B?F9?( 8<(9=B?<C=>S( 1311#(Y?B?( E?F9AB?J( @;B( =>?( Y?@=( Y>8:>(FJJ9(AD(=;((F(66^(>8C>?B(9=B?<C=>S(

h?9D8=?(=>?(A<8dA?IX(>8C>(9=B?<C=>M(=>?(G89:;9?(=XD8:FI(Y?FB8<C(N?>FG8;B(89(<;=(F@@?:=?J(;B(B?JA:?JS(

Hot-Water Shrinkage

f<?(:>FBF:=?B89=8:(=BF8=(;@(G89:;9?(8<(C?<?BFI(89(=>?(>;=QYF-=?B(9>B8<ZFC?S(f<:?(FCF8<(789:;<=®(]'(HIFE?<=(N?>FG?9(J8@@?B?<=IX(=>F<(;BJ8<FBX(=?K=8I?(G89:;9?(HIFE?<=9S(e>8I?(=?K=8I?(G89:;9?(Z??D9(;<(9>B8<Z8<C(Y8=>(?G?BX(YF9>(:X:I?M(789:;<=®(]'(9=FN8I8L?9(F@=?B(=>?(HB9=(YF9>8<CS(,>89(89(F<(?@@?:=(Y>8:>(9??E9(:;<<?:=?J(Y8=>(=>?(>8C>(:BX9=FII8<8=X(;@(=>?(:?IIAI;9?QEF=B8KS(,>?(8<8=8FI(9>B8<ZFC?(89(:;EDFBF-NI?(Y8=>(9=F<JFBJ(G89:;9?(F<J(789:;<=(F<J(I8?9(8<(=>?(BF<C?(;@(1.^(=;(13^S(P@=?B(c.(YF9>(:X:I?9(=>?(B?98JAFI(9=B?<C=>(;@(=>?(@FNB8:(89(9=8II(E;B?(=>F<(cc^(Y>8I?(=>?(FJJ8=8;<FI(9>B8<ZFC?(89(N?I;Y(R^S((((

,>?B?@;B?(Y?(FJG89?(=;(A9?(789:;<=®(]'(F9(DB?Q9>BA<Z(XFB<(DB8EFB8IX(@;B(Y?FG8<C(FDDI8:F=8;<9S

Conclusions

Viscont® - Comfort in protection( 89( F( <?Y( G89:;9?(NF9?J(DB;JA:=QI8<?(NX(&IF<L9=;@@(%<JA9=B8?9S(,>?(HB9=(:;EE?B:8FIIX( FGF8IFNI?( DB;JA:=9( FB?( 789:;<=® HT

Y8=>(8=9(:;<J8=8;<?J(=?<F:8=X(FN;G?(4.(:#[=?K(F<J(=>?(D?BEF<?<=(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(789:;<=®(]'(HIFE?<=S(789-:;<=®(]'(HIFE?<=M(I8Z?(789:;<=®(+,M(>F9(N??<(NI?<J?J(Y8=>8<(@FNB8:9(8<(F<(?<J(F<J(?<J(:;<9=BA:=8;<(F<J(Y8=>(J8@@?B?<=(Y?@=(XFB<9(8<(;BJ?B(=;(E??=(=>?(?<J(A9?B(B?-dA8B?E?<=9S(,>?X(:F<(N?(9ADDI8?J(\F=M(=Y89=?J(F<J(=?K-=AB?JS(,Y89=8<C(;B(=?K=AB8<C(Y8II(<;=(B?JA:?(=>?(\FE?(B?=FBJF<=(DB;D?B=8?9(;@(=>?(XFB<S(789:;<=®(:F<(N?(DI8?J(;B(:;G?B?J(Y8=>(;=>?B(HN?B9(;B(XFB<(F=(F(XFB<(;B(@FN-

B8:(I?G?IS((mFB<(98L?9(;@(789:;<=®(BF<C?(@B;E(11.J=?K(=>B;AC>(044.J=?KS(P::;BJ8<C( =;( ;AB( Z<;YI?JC?(11.(J=?K(XFB<(89(=>?(H<?9=(J?<8?B(]8IFE?<=(]'(XFB<(FGF8IF-NI?(Y;BIJQY8J?S

,>?( @FNB8:( Q(?KFEDI?9(C8G?<(9>;AIJ(J?E;<9=BF=?( =>?(<?Y(;DD;B=A<8=8?9(789:;<=®( >8C>( =?<F:8=X( G89:;9?(H-

IFE?<=9(;@@?B(=>?(=?K=8I?(:;EEA<8=XS(%<(DB8<:8DI?(789-:;<=®( :F<(>?ID( =;( B?FI8L?( I8C>=?B( F<J(E;B?(E?:>F<8-:FIIX(B?989=F<=(@FNB8:9(Y8=>(F<(?dAFI(;B(?G?<(8<:B?F9?J(Y?FB8<C(:;E@;B=S(hX8<C(DB;D?B=8?9(FB?(?K:?II?<=(F<J(98<:?( :?IIAI;9?( 89( F( B?<?YFNI?( B?9;AB:?( 8=( D?B@?:=IX(E??=9(=>?(J?EF<J9(;@(=>?(019=(:?<=ABX(@;B(9A9=F8<FNI?(FI=?B<F=8G?9(=;(9X<=>?=8:(HN?B9S(

Acknowledgements

,>?(FA=>;B9(YF<=(=;(?9D?:8FIIX(=>F<Z(PINB?:>=(!FN9:>(@;B(DB;G8J8<C(=>?(=?K=8I?(JF=F(DB?9?<=?J(F<J(=>?(@;BE?B(F<J(DB?9?<=( :;II?FCA?9( 8<G;IG?J( 8<( =>?( J?G?I;DE?<=(F<J(DB;JA:=8;<(;@(789:;<=®S((

References

_1`(( *%']O_0`(( #XYI=M(kS(!?<L8<C?B()?B8:>=?(0..0M(j1M(61Q6cS_R`(( #8<;YM( +n( +?8J?<B?8:>M( %S( !?<L8<C?B( )?B8:>=?(1--.M(6.M(11Q13S_4`(( iBo998CM( +S( !?<L8<C?B( )?B8:>=?( 1-63M( 4.M( 10cQ1R4n(&;=9:>?XM(]S(!?<L8<C?B()?B8:>=?(1-66M(4RM(1R1Q1R-n(e;I@M('S(%<JS("<CS(*>?ES(TB;JS('?9S(h?GS(1-j1M(0.M(41RQ40.S

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(61

72

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((30(4(35

67889:;<(=>(?:@A89@:B:C:7D(=>(6AE;CFG8H( #=;I=J8;@(I:7K(L:B98(M9=A897:8@(F;H( 6AE;CFG:;<(MF9FN8789@

Roland Scholz1 and Ina Sigmund2

1O8CK8:N(L:B98@(&NB+P('8<8;@BE9<89(679FQ8(1.-P(?R-SS.-(O8CK8:NP(&89NF;DMK=;8T(UV-/.2-VV1R--(WS0X(LFYT(UV-/.2-VV1R--(0S3X("RNF:CT(9=CF;HZ@GK=C[\]8CK8:NR^B98@ZG=N26_GK@:@GK8@(,8Y7:C>=9@GKE;<@:;@7:7E7(8Z Z̀(/6,L%2P(a;;FB89<89(679Z(0V.P(.-105(*K8N;:7[P(&89NF;DM98@8;78H(HE9:;<(7K8(#=;I=J8;@('8@8F9GK(aGFH8NDP1-(4(0.7K(aA9:C(0.10P(&=7K8;BE9<P(6I8H8;

Abstract

,K8(H:@A89@:B:C7D(=>(@AE;CFG8H(;=;I=J8;@(BF@8H(=;(AE98(J:@G=@8(>:B98@(IF@(:;J8@7:<F78HZ(,K8(NF:;(7F9<87(IF@(7=(H:@G=J89(>:B98(F;H(;=;I=J8;(AF9FN8789@(IK:GK(@EAA=97(7K8(H:@A89@:=;(=>(F(@AE;CFG8H(;=;I=J8;Z(a(JF9:87D(=>(H:>>898;7(J:@G=@8(>:B98@(IF@(H8J8C=A8H(F;H(78@78H(7=(:;J8@7:<F78(7K8(:;>CE8;G8(=>(>:B98(AF9F-N8789@(C:]8(<8=N879D(/7:798P(C8;<7KP(@KFA8(=>(H:FN87892P(@E9>FG8(A9=A897:8@(F;H(78;@:C8(@798;<7KZ(a7(>:9@7(7K8(A9=G8@@FB:C:7D(=>( 7K8(H:>>898;7( >:B98@(IF@( 8YAC=98H( F7( F(B9=FH( 9F;<8(=>(KDH9=8;7F;<C8N8;7( :;78;@:7DZ( %7(B8GFN8( =BJ:=E@( 7KF7( :;( AF97:GECF9( 7K8( 78;@:C8( @798;<7K( =>( 7K8( ;=;I=J8;@( H8A8;H8H( J89D(NEGK( =;( 7K8( 7DA8(=>(>:B98Z,K8(H:@A89@:B:C7D(=>(7K8(;=;I=J8;@(IF@(A9=B8H(I:7K(F(bLCE@K(,EB8(,8@789cZ(,K8(^B98(F;H(;=;I=J8;(AF9FN8789@(I898(>E97K89(=A7:N:@8H(7=(>FG:C:7F78(F(<==H(G=NA9=N:@8(=>(;=;I=J8;(@798;<7K(F;H(H:@A89@:B:C:7DZ(dF:;(^B98(F;H(;=;I=J8;(AF9FN8789@(IK:GK(@EAA=97(H:@A89@:B:C:7D(G=ECH(B8(:H8;7:^8HZLE97K89N=98( 7K8(eE@KFB:C:7D(=>( @AE;CFG8H(;=;I=I8;@(IF@( 78@78H( :;( 7K8( @=(GFCC8H(b#87K89CF;H@(68I89(MENA(,8@7cZ(a(<==H(G=998CF7:=;(B87I88;(98@EC7@(=>(7K8(7EB8(78@7(F;H(=>(7K8(@8I89(AENA(78@7(IF@(=B@89J8HZ

Keywords:!"#$%&$'!()*'$+!$,-./0%'1!.&.2&"'.$+!)*'034-,!&5!.&.2&"'.+!1#$,'*$#)#/#67!&5!()*'$+!8-$90)#/#67

Introduction

a;( :NA=97F;7( NF9]87( >=9( @AE;CFG8H( ;=;I=J8;@( :@( 7K8(E@8( F@(I87(I:A8@( >=9(A89@=;FC(KD<:8;8(FAAC:GF7:=;@Z( %;(7K8( @FN8( IFD( F@( >=9( 7=:C87( AFA89P( GE@7=N89@( G=;@:H89(F(H:@A=@FC(=>(E@8H(I87(I:A8@( :;7=( 7K8(@8I89(@D@78N(F@(G=;J8;:8;7Z(,KE@(F(KE<8(FN=E;7(=>(I87(I:A8@(:@(eE@K8H(:;7=(7=:C87@Z(%7(:@(:NA=97F;7(7KF7(eE@K8H(;=;I=J8;@(H=(;=7(BC=G](7K8(IF@78IF789(@D@78N(f1g(f0gZ(,K8D(@K=ECH(B98F](EAP(H:@A89@8(F;H(H:@:;78<9F78(:;7=(@:;<C8(^B98@(F;H(^;FCCD(B:=H8<9FH8(G=NAC878CDZ(,=HFD(7DA:GFC(I87(I:A8@(G=;@:@7(=>(AE98(G8CCEC=@:G(^B98@(=9(=>(N:Y7E98@(I:7K(A=CD8@789(^B-98@Z(a(<8;89FC(FHJF;7F<8(=>(G8CCEC=@:G(^B98@(C:]8(J:@G=@8(G=NAF98H(7=(A=CD8@789(:@(7K8:9(G=NAC878(B:=H8<9FHFB:C:7DZ

6*hM"(a#?(a%d(hL(,+"(%#`"6,%&a,%h#,K8( H:@A89@:B:C:7D( =>( @AE;CFG8H( ;=;I=J8;@( BF@8H(

=;(1..i(J:@G=@8(^B98@(IF@(:;J8@7:<F78HZ(j8B(B=;-

H:;<( =>( 7K8( ^B98@(IF@( GF99:8H( =E7( @=C8CD( J:F( KDH-

9=8;7F;<C8N8;7Z( ,K8( NF:;( 7F9<87( IF@( 7=( H:@G=J89(^B98(F;H(;=;I=J8;(AF9FN8789@(IK:GK(@EAA=97( 7K8(H:@A89@:=;( =>( @AE;CFG8H( ;=;I=J8;@Z( 6AE;CFG:;<(A9=G8@@(AF9FN8789@(I898(:;J8@7:<F78H(F;H(^B98(F;H(;=;I=J8;( A9=A897:8@( I898( =A7:N:[8H( 7=( :NA9=J8(H:@A89@:B:C:7DZ

La*,h'6(a#?(d"*+a#%6d6(Lh'(BREAK-UP AND DISPERSION

%;( A9:;G:AC8( 7K8( ^B98R^B98( :;789FG7:=;( F;H( 7K8( IF789R^B98(:;789FG7:=;(H8A8;H(J89D(NEGK(=;(7K8(@79EG7E98(F;H(A9=A897:8@(=>(7K8(@:;<C8(^B98Z

3S

6:N:CF9CD(7K8(@79EG7E98(F;H(A9=A897:8@(=>(7K8(;=;I=J8;(KFJ8(F(G=;@:H89FBC8(:NAFG7(=;(7K8(^B98R^B98(F;H(IF789R^B98(:;789FG7:=;@Z,K8(>=CC=I:;<(:;789FG7:=;@(F;H(N8GKF;:@N@(>=9(7K8(B98F]REA(=>(;=;I=J8;@(F;H(H:@:;78<9F7:=;(7=(@:;<C8(̂ B98@(:;(IF-789(I898(F@@EN8H(F@(A=@@:BC8(:;eE8;G:;<(>FG7=9@T(̂ B98R^B-98(>9:G7:=;P(̂ B98RIF789(>9:G7:=;(:;(e=I:;<(=9(N=J:;<(IF789P(N=N8;7EN(79F;@>89(>9=N(IF789(7=(^B98@(/G=CC:@:=;@(B87-I88;(IF789(F;H(^B98@2P(KDH9=<8;(B=;H:;<(B87I88;(G8CCE-C=@:G(@E9>FG8@(=>(̂ B98@P(C8J8C(=>(8;7F;<C8N8;7(=>(̂ B98@(F;H(B98F](=>(@:;<C8(̂ B98@Z(,K8@8(7K8=987:GFCCD(A=@@:BC8(:;789FG-7:=;@(F;H(N8GKF;:@N@(NFD(H8A8;H(:;(=;8(IFD(=9(F;=7K89(=;(@:;<C8(^B98(A9=A897:8@(C:]8(^B98(H:FN8789(/7:7982P(@KFA8(=>(G9=@@(@8G7:=;P(C8;<7KP(78;@:C8(@798;<7KP(B8;H:;<(@7:>>;8@@(F;H(@E9>FG8(@79EG7E98(F@(I8CC(F@(F(@E9>FG8(<8C(8>>8G7Z

Materials and Methods

`%6*h6"(L%)'"6)F@8H(=;(7K8(7K8=987:GFC(F@@ENA7:=;@(FB=E7(B98F]REA(=>(;=;I=J8;@(F;H(H:@A89@:=;(=>(^B98@P(J:@G=@8(^B98@(I:7K(JF9D:;<(AF9FN8789@(I898(@8C8G78HT(,:798(>9=N(.Z-(7=(VZ0(H78YP(H:>>898;7(@KFA8(=>(G9=@@(@8G7:=;( /8Z<Z( 9=E;HP(eF7P(79:C=BFC2P(C8;<7K(>9=N(10(7=(V.(NNP(78;@:C8(@798;<7K(>9=N(-(7=(01(G#k78YP(G=99E<F78H(=9(@N==7K(@E9>FG8(F;H(F(@E9->FG8(<8C(8>>8G7Z

6Ml#!a*%#&(M'h*"66(Ma'ad","'6,K8(;=;I=J8;(I8B@(I898(NF;E>FG7E98H(>9=N(7K8(H:>->898;7(7DA8@(=>(J:@G=@8(^B98@(J:F(GF9H:;<Z()F@:@(I8:<K7(IF@(FHmE@78H( 7=(5.(<kNnZ(,K8( CFDH=I;(=>( 7K8(;=;I=-J8;(I8B(IF@(GF99:8H(=E7(I:7K(F;(F89=HD;FN:GFC(A9=G8@@(IK:GK(H8C:J898H(:;(N=@7(GF@8@(N=98(=9(C8@@(F;(:@=79=A:G(CFDH=I;(/d?k*?R9F7:=(o(12Z,K8(B=;H:;<(=>(;=;I=J8;@(IF@(GF99:8H(=E7(@=C8CD(J:F(KDH9=8;7F;<C8N8;7( I:7K( S( IF789m87( B8FN@Z( +8;G8( 7=(FGK:8J8( F( KDH9=8;7F;<C8N8;7( >9=N( B=7K( @:H8@( =>( 7K8(;=;I=J8;(7I=(AF@@F<8@(I898(;8G8@@F9DZ(%;(F(7DA:GFC(1@7(AF@@F<8(A98@@E98@(=>(.Z5k1Z5k1Z5(dMF(I898(FAAC:8HZ(L=9(7K8(0;H(AF@@F<8(7K8(A98@@E98@(I898(JF9:8H(>9=N(.k1Z.k1Z.(dMF(EA(7=(.k1Vk1V(dMFZ

L!l6+(,l)"(,"6,(,K8(H:@A89@:B:C:7D(=>(7K8(;=;I=J8;@(IF@(A9=B8H(I:7K(F(7EB8(78@789(/L:<E98(02Z(,K8(7EB8(IF@(AF97:-FCCD(^CC8H(I:7K(IF789(F;H(7E9;8H(@8J89FC(7:N8@(BD(1p.q(/NFYZ(5.(7E9;@2Z(,K8(C8J8C(=>(B98F]REA(=>(7K8(;=;I=J8;@(F;H(H:@A89@:=;(=>(̂ B98@(IF@(=B@89J8HZ

,=( mEH<8( 7K8( H:@A89@:B:C:7D( @:Y( G9:789:F(I898( H8^;8H( /L:<E98(S2T

/.2(( @=C:H(;=;I=J8;/12(( B98F]REA(F7(8H<8@/02(( 1(K=C8(:;(7K8(;=;I=J8;/S2(( >=9NF7:=;(=>(0(=9(S(A:8G8@/V2( N=98(7KF;(S(A:8G8@/52( G=NAC878(H:@A89@:=;(=>(^B98@(:;(IF789

#",+"'!a#?6(MldM(,"6,M89(9E;(W.(;=;I=J8;(@A8G:N8;(I898(>8H(:;(:;7=(F;(=A8-9F7:;<(@8I89(AENAZaCC(@EB@8rE8;7(78@7(A:8G8@(I898(C=FH8H(I:7K(1.(@8G=;H(:;789JFC@Z(?E9:;<(7K8(9E;(7K8(C8J8C(=>(9:@:;<(A=I89(G=;@ENA7:=;(IF@(=B@89J8HZ%;(7K:@(78@7(7K8(8C8G79:G(A=I89(G=;@ENA7:=;(=>(7K8(AENA(98e8G7@(7K8(eE@KFB:C:7D(=>(;=;I=J8;@Z()C=G]:;<(=>(7K8(AENA( BD( ;=;I=J8;@( C8FH@( 7=( :;G98F@8H( A=I89( G=;-@ENA7:=;Z

Results and Discussion

,+%*O#"66(a#?(a%'(M"'d"a)%!,s(hL(6Ml#!a*"?(#h#jh`"#6(,K8(@79EG7E98(=>(7K8(;=;I=J8;@(H8A8;H8H(J89D(NEGK(=;(7K8(7DA8(=>(J:@G=@8(^B98(E@8H(/L:<E98(V2Z

Figure 1.!:06'*4()*'!0.1!()*'4()*'!#.6'*0%6#&.;

Figure 2. Tube Tester. Figure 4. SEM, stucture of spunlaced nonwovens.

Figure 3. Flush tube test, dispersibility criteria.

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((30(4(35

74

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#=;I=J8;@(I:7K(J89D(eF7(^B98@(/F@A8G7(9F7:=(0.T12(H8-C:J898H(7K8(C=I8@7(F:9(A89N8FB:C:7D(=>(FCC(78@78H(@FNAC8@(HE8(7=(7K8(C=I(;=;I=J8;(BEC]:;8@@(F;H(:;(FHH:7:=;(7=(7K8(A98>8998H(=9:8;7F7:=;(=>(7K8(eF7(^B98(@E9>FG8(:;(7K8(ACF;8(=>(7K8(;=;I=J8;Z(,K8(C=I(BEC]:;8@@(=>(7K8@8(;=;-I=J8;(:@(:;(C:;8(I:7K(F;(=B@89J8H(AFA89(C:]8(7=EGKZ

,"#6%!"(6,'"#&,+(hL(6Ml#!a*"?(#h#jh`"#6,K8(78;@:C8(@798;<7K(H8A8;H8H(J89D(NEGK(=;(7K8(A98@@E-98(=>(KDH9=8;7F;<C8N8;7(F;H(=>(7K8(@KFA8(=>(^B98(G9=@@(@8G7:=;(/L:<E98(W2Z

L:B98@(I:7K(eF7(G9=@@(@8G7:=;( /F@A8G7( 9F7:=(0.T12(G=N-

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Figure 5. <9#%3.'$$!=)*&01+!,0/'!%&/->$?!0.1!0#*!,'*>'0)#-

/#67!&5!$,-./0%'1!.&.2&"'.$!2#69!1#55'*'.6!()*'$;

Figure 6. Tensile strength of spunlaced nonwovens.

Figure 7.! @'A-#*'1! 6-*.$! 5&*! )*'034-,! =9&/'! 5&*>06#&.?! &5!

.&.2&"'.!2#69!BC!>>!()*'!/'.D69!#.!8-$9!6-)'!6'$6;

Figure 8. @'A-#*'1!6-*.$!5&*!)*'034-,!=5&*>06#&.!&5!E!F!

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Conclusions

,K8( @79EG7E98( F;H( A9=A897:8@( =>( ;=;I=J8;@( G=ECH( B8(G=;79=CC8H(BD(7K8(E@8(=>(H:>>898;7(7DA8(=>(J:@G=@8(^B98@Z(%;(AF97:GECF9P(7K8(@79EG7E98(F;H(F:9(A89N8FB:C:7D(=>(;=;-I=J8;@(H8A8;H8H(J89D(NEGK(=;(7K8(H:FN8789(F;H(@KFA8(=>(G9=@@(@8G7:=;(=>(7K8(^B98@Z(L=9(7K8(B98F]REA(=>(;=;-I=J8;(F;H(7K8(H:@A89@:=;(:;7=(@:;<C8(^B98@(:;(N=J:;<(IF789(7K8(N=@7(G9EG:FC(>FG7=9@(I898(7K8(78;@:C8(@798;<7K(=>(7K8(;=;I=J8;@(F;H(7K8(C8;<7K(=>(7K8(^B98@Z(#=;I=-J8;@(I:7K(7DA:GFC(@7FAC8(^B98@(G=ECH(;=7(B8(>ECCD(H:@:;-78<9F78H( :;7=( @:;<C8(^B98@(HE8( 7=( 9=A:;<Z( %;( 7K8( 9F;<8(=>(@K=9789(^B98@(7K8(^B98(C8;<7K(F;H(KDH9=8;7F;<C8N8;7(A98@@E98(KFH( 7=(B8(BFCF;G8H( 7=(FGK:8J8(@E>^G:8;7(I8B(@798;<7KP(8F@D(B98F]REA(=>(I8B(F;H(G=NAC878(H:@A89@:=;(=>(^B98@Z('8@EC7@(=>( 7EB8( 78@7@(<FJ8(F(<==H( :;H:GF7:=;(FB=E7( 7K8(A=78;7:FC( =>(;=;I=J8;@( 7=(AF@@( 7K8(#87K89-CF;H@(68I89(MENA(,8@7Z(#=;I=J8;@(IK:GK( B9=]8( EA(8F@D(F;H(H:@A89@8H(G=NAC878CD(:;(7K8(7EB8(78@7(I898(FC@=(8F@:CD(79F;@A=978H(7K9=E<K(7K8(@8I89(AENA(I:7K(C:77C8(:;-G98F@8(=>(A=I89(G=;@ENA7:=;Z

Acknowledgements

j8(I=ECH( C:]8( 7=( 7KF;]( 7K8(&89NF;(L8H89FC(d:;:@79D(=>("G=;=N:G@(F;H(,8GK;=C=<D(/)dj:2(>=9(>E;H:;<(7K8(:;J8@7:<F7:=;@Z

References

f1g( dG%;7D98(OZP(,K:9H( 7:N8u@( F( GKF9N( >=9(eE@KFBC8(I:A8@P( #=;I=J8;@( %;HE@79D( k( +=E@8K=CH(v( M89@=;FC(*F98(j:A8@P(aA9:C(/0.102(0VR05Zf0g( LCE@KFB:C:7D(EAHF78(/*=;>898;G8('8A=972Z(#=;I=-J8;@('8A=97(%;789;F7:=;FCP(S(/0.112P(SpZ

Figure 10. Sewer pump test results of nonwovens with diffe-

*'.6!()*'!/'.D69!J>>K!0.1!2')!$6*'.D69!JLMNC>>K;

Figure 9.!@'A-#*'1!6-*.$!5&*!)*'034-,!=5&*>06#&.!&5!E!F!

,#'%'$?!&5!.&.2&"'.!2#69!1#55'*'.6!67,'$!&5!()*'$;

75

76

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"889:;<(=8(>?9@;?9A;B9C;(ACD(DE<<=FG;E=C( :=CDE;E=C<(8=?(EB>?=H9D(<=FG;E=C(ACD( >?=:9<<ECI(>?=>9?;E9<(=8(:9FFGF=<9(EC(E=CE:( FEJGED<

Birgit Kosan*, Katrin Schwikal and Frank Meister

,KL?ECIE<:K9<(%C<;E;G;(8L?(,9M;EF@(GCD(NGC<;<;=88@O=?<:KGCIP)?9E;<:K9ED<;?AQ9(-3P(.37.3('GD=F<;AD;P(&9?BACROSTU(/V7-2(.W430(W3-W3-X("@BAEFU(Y=<ACZ;E;Y[D9

Abstract

\E889?9C;(E=CE:(FEJGED<(A?9(<GE;9D(8=?(DE<<=FG;E=C(ACD(>?=:9<<ECI(=8(:9FFGF=<9[(\9>9CDECI(=C(;K9(:K9BE:AF(:=C<;E-;G;E=C(=8(;K9(G<9D(E=CE:(FEJGED(;K9(A>>FE9D(>?9@;?9A;B9C;(ACD(DE<<=FG;E=C(:=CDE;E=C<(A?9(=8(<>9:EAF(EB>=?;AC:9(8=?(AC(=>;EBAF(>?=:9<<ECI[(,K9(>A>9?(DE<:G<<9<(ECH9<;EIA;E=C<(A]=G;(;K9(EC^G9C:9(=8(>?9@;?9A;B9C;(<;9><(<G:K(A<(>?9@<_9FFECIP(]A<E:E;R(AD`G<;B9C;(=?(AC(ADDE;E=C(=8(<;A]EFEa9?<(=C(;K9(DE<<=FG;E=C(ACD(<KA>ECI(=8(:9FFGF=<9(G<ECI(EBE-DAa=FEGB(]A<9D(E=CE:(FEJGED<P(AF<=(8?=B(;K9(>9?<>9:;EH9(=8(A(<=FH9C;(?9:R:FECI[(%=CE:(FEJGED<(_E;K(:KF=?ED9P(A:9;A-;9(ACD(DE9;KRF>K=<>KA;9(ACE=C<(A?9(:=C<ED9?9DP(ACD(;K9(9889:;<(=8(;K9(>?9@;?9A;B9C;(<;9><(A?9(DE<:G<<9D(]R(B9AC<(=8( ?K9=F=IE:AF(>?=>9?;E9<(=8( ;K9(:9FFGF=<9( <=FG;E=C<(A<(_9FF( A<( ;9M;EF9@>KR<E:AF(>?=>9?;E9<(ACD(B=F9:GFA?(BA<<(DE<;?E]G;E=C<(=8(;K9(>?9>A?9D(b]?9<[

Keywords: cellulose degradation, dissolution conditions, ionic liquid, pre-treatment, solution state.

Introduction

%=CE:(FEJGED<P(_KE:K(A?9(:FA<<Eb9D(A<(<AF;<(_E;K(B9F;ECI(>=EC;<(]9F=_(1..c*(d1eP(A;;?A:;9D(EC(;K9(FA<;(D9:AD9(;=(_ED9FR(G<9D(<=FH9C;<(EC(:9FFGF=<9(:K9BE<;?R[(S8;9?(;K9(b?<;(?9>=?;(8?=B(&?A9CA:K9?(d0e(EC(;K9(R9A?(1-W7(A]=G;(;K9( DE<<=FG;E=C( =8( :9FFGF=<9( EC( ]9CaRF>R?EDECEGB( ACD(AFFRF>R?EDECEGB(:KF=?ED9(E;(_A<(A(F=CI(;EB9(>9?E=D(=8(:AFB( :=C:9?CECI( ;K9( E=CE:( FEJGED<( EC( :9FFGF=<9( :K9-BE<;?R[(f>(;=(;K9(R9A?(0..0P(_K9?9(g_A;F=<YR(dWe(9;(AF[(D9<:?E]9( ;K9( DE<<=FG;E=C( =8( :9FFGF=<9( EC( EBEDAa=FEGB(]A<9D( E=CE:( FEJGED<[( ,=DARP( :=C<ED9?ECI( ;K9( I?=_ECI(E=CE:( FEJGED(8ABEFRP(9<>9:EAFFR( E=CE:( FEJGED<(_E;K(AB-

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CE:( FEJGED<P( ;==[( OG?;K9?B=?9P( ;K9?BAF( E??9IGFA?E;E9<(<;A?;(FA;9?(;KAC(EC(:=B>A?A]F9(#jjk(<=FG;E=C<(_K9C(8GC:;E=CAF( ADDE;EH9<( A?9( ADBEM9D( EC( :9FFGF=<9( <=FG-

;E=C<P(_KE:K(_A<( <K=_C(=C( <EFH9?@CAC=>A?;E:F9<( ACD(A:;EHA;9D( :KA?:=AF( :=C;AECECI( <=FG;E=C<[d0We( OECAFFRP(KEIK9?( :9FFGF=<9( :=C:9C;?A;E=C<( A?9( >=<<E]F9( 8=?( 9M-

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Experimental

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h'"hS'S,%k#(kO(*"!!f!kg"(SOLUTIONS ,K9(>?9>A?A;E=C(=8(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<(_A<(:A??E9D(=G;(G<ECI(A(<>9:EAF(H9?;E:AF(YC9AD9?(<R<;9BP(FECY9D(_E;K(A('+"k*k'\( -...( /+SSN"2[( ,9B>9?A;G?9P( ;=?JG9(B=B9C;(ACD(?9H=FG;E=C<(>9?(BECG;9(/?>B2(H<[(?9A:;E=C(;EB9(_9?9(D9;9?BEC9D(=C@FEC9[()98=?9( ]9ECI( A>>FE9D( EC( ;K9( DE<<=FG;E=C( >?=:9<<( ;K9(:9FFGF=<9(_A<(DE<EC;9I?A;9D(]R(B9AC<(=8(AC(fF;?A@,G?-?AM(<K9A?ECI(;==F(G<ECI(_A;9?(A<(DE<>9?<ECI(B9DEGB[("M:9<<(_A;9?(_A<( <9>A?A;9D( 8?=B( ;K9( :9FFGF=<9(>GF>(ACD(;K9(>GF>(_A<(A8;9?_A?D<(;?AC<89??9D(EC(AC(AJG9=G<(<=FG;E=C(=8(;K9(E=CE:(FEJGED[(,K9(?A;E=(]9;_99C(_A;9?(ACD(E=CE:(FEJGED(EC(;KE<(<G<>9C<E=C(_A<(<9F9:;9D(]R(1U1(8=?(AD`G<;B9C;(=8(A(D9bCE;9(]A<E:E;R(ACD(A(D=<AI9(=8(<;A]EFEa9?<[( ,K9( =];AEC9D( >9?<E<;9C;( >GF>( <G<>9C<E=C(_A<(>=G?9D(EC;=(;K9(YC9ADECI(:KAB]9?[(

,K9(9M:9<<(_A;9?(_A<(?9B=H9D(A;(;9B>9?A;G?9<(]9;-_99C(-.(ACD(10.c*P(A;(?9DG:9D(>?9<<G?9(D=_C(;=(i(B]A?(ACD(<K9A?ECI(?A;9<(]9;_99C(i(ACD(i.(?>B[(,K9(<;A?;ECI( DE<<=FG;E=C( >?=:9<<( ]9:=B9<( HE<E]F9( EC( A(<;?=CI(EC:?9A<ECI(=8( ;K9( ;=?JG9(B=B9C;[(,K9(?9<GF-;ECI(HE<:=G<(I9F(_A<(K=B=I9CE<9D(_E;KEC(A(<=@:AFF9D(oA8;9?@DE<<=FG;E=Cp(;EB9(=8(=C9(K=G?(A;(10.c*P(A(:=C-<;AC;(;=?JG9(?A;9(=8(A]=G;(1.(?>B(ACD(:=C<;AC;FR(?9-DG:9D(>?9<<G?9[(

SPINNING TRIALSg>ECCECI(;?EAF<(_9?9(:A??E9D(=G;(]R(D?R@_9;(<>ECCECI(9M>9?EB9C;<(8=?(>?9>A?A;E=C(=8(<;A>F9(b]?9<(=8(A]=G;(1[3(D;9M(bC9C9<<(G<ECI(A( FA]=?A;=?R(<>ECCECI(9JGE>-

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Methods

CELLULOSE CHARACTERISATION,K9(G<9D(>GF>(ACD(?9I9C9?A;9D(:9FFGF=<9(<AB>F9<(8?=B(;K9(DE<<=FG;E=C(ACD(<>ECCECI(;9<;<(_9?9(:KA?A:;9?E<9D(]R(:A>EFFA?R(HE<:=<E;R(8=?(;K9(D9;9?BECA;E=C(=8(;K9(AH9-?AI9(D9I?99(=8(>=FRB9?E<A;E=C(/\h

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KAG<;EH9(<=FH9C;(9M;?A:;E=C(ACD(D?RECI[(

RHEOLOGICAL CHARACTERISATION ,K9(?K9=F=IE:AF(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(=8(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<(_A<( >9?8=?B9D( G<ECI( A( ?K9=B9;9?( +SSN"(jS'g(_E;K(:=C9(l(>FA;9(B9A<G?ECI(<R<;9B(/7c(ACIF9(I9=B9;-?R2(ACD(9F9:;?E:AFFR(K9A;9D(:=C9(y(>FA;9(GCE;(_E;K(A:;E-H9(:=C9(K9A;9?[($9?=(<K9A?(HE<:=<E;E9<(_9?9(:AF:GFA;9D(8?=B(:?99>(A;;-9B>;<(EC(;K9(?=;A;E=C(B=D9(A;(<K9A?(<;?9<<(=8(-.(hA[(,K9( D9;9?BEC9D( :9FFGF=<9( <=FG;E=C<( <K=_9D( <EICEb-

:AC;(HE<:=9FA<;E:(]9KAHE=G?[(S(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(=8(;K9(HE<:=9FA<;E:(>?=>9?;E9<(_A<(?9AFE<9D(EC(;K9(=<:EFFA;E=C(B=D9[(k<:EFFA;E=C(;9<;<(_9?9(:A??E9D(=G;(A<(8?9JG9C:R(<_99><(/.[.74(5(17[3(+aP(D98=?BA;E=CU(.[.32(A;(DE889-?9C;(;9B>9?A;G?9<[(,K9(w!O@;?AC<8=?BA;E=C(_A<(G<9D(8=?(:AF:GFA;E=C(=8(BA<;9?(:G?H9<(ACD(?9FAMA;E=C(<>9:;-?A[(,KE<(B9;K=D( >9?BE;<( AC( EC;9?>=FA;E=C( =8( ;K9( 8?9-JG9C:R(l(ACIGFA?(?A;9(?ACI9(=H9?(<9H9?AF(D9:AD9<(ACD(E<(AC(9HAFGA;9D(B9;K=D(8=?(;K9(D9;9?BECA;E=C(=8(HE<:=-9FA<;E:(>?=>9?;E9<(=8(>=FRB9?(<=FG;E=C<[(\9;AEF<(=8(;K9(?K9=F=IE:AF(D=>9(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(KAD(]99C(D9<:?E]9D(EC(8=?B9?(>G]FE:A;E=C<[(d07@03e

O%)'"(*+S'S*,"'%gS,%k#,K9(;9M;EF9@>KR<E:AF(b]?9(>A?AB9;9?<(_9?9(D9;9?BEC9D(A::=?DECI(;=(;K9(8=FF=_ECI(B9;K=D<U(!( bC9C9<<(A::=?DECI(;=(\%#("#(%gk(1-3WP(!( ;9C<EF9(<;?9CI;K(ACD(9F=CIA;E=C(A::=?DECI(;=((( \%#("#(%gk(i.3-(ACD(!( F==>(;9CA:E;R(A::=?DECI(;=(\%#(iW67WP(>A?;(0[

Results and Discussion

g=FG;E=C(<;A;9<(=8(:9FFGF=<9(EC(E=CE:(FEJGED<(A<(_9FF(A<(;K9( :9FFGF=<9( b]?9<( >?=>9?;E9<( =];AEC9D( ]R( D?R@_9;(<KA>ECI(=8(;K9<9(<=FG;E=C<(A?9(A889:;9D(]R(DE889?9C;(>A-?AB9;9?<[(g=B9(9889:;<(=8( ;K9(G<9D(E=CE:( FEJGED<(ACD(>GF><(A?9(AF?9ADR(?9:=C<ED9?9D(EC(8=?B9?(>G]FE:A;E=C<(d-P(06e[(+9?9(_9(_=GFD(FEY9(;=(DE<:G<<(DE889?9C;(9889:;<(=8( >?9@;?9A;B9C;( :=CDE;E=C<( A;( <=FG;E=C( >?9>A?A;E=CP(<G:K(A<(>GF>(>?9>A?A;E=CP(>GF>(<G<>9C<E=C(]A<E:E;R(ACD(;K9(EC^G9C:9(=8(<;A]EFEa9?<[(

\%ggk!f,%k#(S#\(g+Sh%#&(kO(CELLULOSE USING THE IONIC !%zf%\()j%j*!%BEDAa=FEGB(]A<9D(E=CE:(FEJGED<(_E;K(:KF=?ED9(ACE=C<(A?9(<=B9(=8(;K9(B=<;(EC;9C<EH9FR(ECH9<;EIA;9D(<=FH9C;<(8=?(:9FFGF=<9[(,K9(BA`=?E;R(=8(;K9(>G]FE<K9D(_=?Y<(D9-<:?E]9( ;K9( DE<<=FG;E=C( =8( :9FFGF=<9( EC( <G:K( <=FH9C;<(

/12

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

79

G<ECI(_9FF(D?E9D(:9FFGF=<9(ACD( E=CE:( FEJGED<( dWP(ie(S(D9I?ADA;E=C(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(BA;9?EAF(_A<(=8;9C(9<;A]-

FE<K9D( EC( ;K9<9(:A<9<[d1.e()G;(A( <EICEb:AC;(:9FFGF=<9(D9I?ADA;E=CP(>A?;E:GFA?FR(_E;K(EBEDAa=FEGB(]A<9D(E=-

CE:( FEJGED<(_E;K(:KF=?ED9(ACE=C<P(:AC(]9(AH=ED(G<ECI(:9?;AEC(>?=:9<<ECI(>A?AB9;9?<[d-P(W.ekC9(G<98GF(=>>=?;GCE;R(8=?(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<(>?9->A?A;E=C(EC(E=CE:(FEJGED<(A;(;9:KCE:AF(?9F9HAC;(:=C:9C;-?A;E=C<(E<(;K9(8=FF=_ECI(>?=:9DG?9U(A(DE<EC;9I?A;E=C(=8(;K9(>GF>(<K99;<(EC(AC(<;?=CI(<;E??9D(AJG9=G<(DE<>9?<E=CP(8=FF=_9D( ]R( <G<>9CDECI( ;K9(_9;( >GF>( EC( AC( AJG9=G<(<=FG;E=C(=8(;K9(G<9D(E=CE:(FEJGED(ACD(<G]<9JG9C;FR(;K9(DE<<=FG;E=C(<;9>(]R(?9B=HECI(;K9(9M:9<<(_A;9?P(K9?9EC-A8;9?(?989??9D(;=(A<(o_9;(DE<<=FG;E=C(>?=:9<<p[(,KE<(A>->?=A:K( _A<( G<9D( ;=( ECH9<;EIA;9( ;K9( EC^G9C:9( =8( ;K9(]A<E:E;R(=8(;K9(<;A?;ECI(<G<>9C<E=C(ACD(=8(>?=>RF(IAFFA-;9(/h&2(A<(<;A]EFEa9?(EC(<=FG;E=C(<;A;9(ACD(=C(b]?9(>?=->9?;E9<(_K9C()j%j*F(_A<(G<9D(A<(DE<<=FG;E=C(B9DE-GB[(,K9(>?9>A?A;E=C(=8(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<(G<ECI(A(oD?R(DE<<=FG;E=C(>?=:9<<p(_A<(AF<=(;9<;9D(8=?(:=B>A?E<=C[(,A]F9(1(:=C;AEC<(<=B9(ACAFR;E:AF(DA;A(=8(;K9(>?9>A?9D(:9FFGF=<9( <=FG;E=C<( G<ECI( 9G:AFR>;G<( >GF>( g@i13( (DP

*G=MABU( i132[(,K9( <=FED<( :=C;9C;<( =8( ;K9( <=FG;E=C<(

A?9( FE<;9D( EC(:=FGBC(1(/::9FFGF=<9

2[(,K9(AD`G<;B9C;(=8(A(D9bCE;9( ]A<E:E;R( KAD( ]99C( ?9AFEa9D( ]R( ADDE;E=C( =8(AJG9=G<(<=DEGB(KRD?=MED9(;=(;K9(>GF>(<G<>9C<E=C(EC(AJG9=G<()j%j*F(/_A;9?(U()j%j*F(t(1U1P(_l_2[(,KE<(]A<E:E;R(AD`G<;B9C;(_A<(:A??E9D(=G;(]R(B9A<G?ECI(=8(;K9(>+@HAFG9(/1.[iP(-[i(ACD(6[.2P(YC=_ECI(8GFF(_9FFP(;KA;(;K9(D9bCE;E=C(=8(>+(E<(?9<;?E:;9D(;=(DEFG;9D(AJG9-=G<(<=FG;E=C<P(=CFR[(S<(<;A]EFEa9?(h&(_A<(G<9D(A;(AC(

AB=GC;(=8(.[i(_;@nP(?989??ECI(;=(:9FFGF=<9[(S(:KA?A:;9-?E<A;E=C(=8(;K9(=];AEC9D(:9FFGF=<9(D=>9<(_A<(>9?8=?B9D(DE?9:;FR(A8;9?(;K9(<=FG;E=C(>?9>A?A;E=C(ACD(A8;9?(AC(ADDE-;E=CAF(<;9>(BAEC;AECECI(;K9(;9B>9?A;G?9(DG?ECI(0.(K=G?<(A;(6.c*P(?9<>9:;EH9FR[(gG:K(A( ;9B>9?ECI(<;9>(>?9:9D9<(;K9(G<9D(FA]=?A;=?R(<>ECCECI(>?=:9<<P(E[9[(;K9(;9B>9?9D(<AB>F9<( A?9( :F=<9?( ;=( ;K9( <>ECCECI( <AB>F9<[( ,K9( FA<;(;K?99(?EIK;(:=FGBC<(:=C;AEC(;K9(\h

*G=MAB(=8(?9>?9:E>E;A-

;9D( :9FFGF=<9( DE?9:;FR( A8;9?( ;K9( <=FG;E=C( >?9>A?A;E=C((DP

S2P(=8(;K9(;9B>9?9D(<AB>F9<(=?(=8(;K9(b]?9<(/\h

O2(

ACD(;K9(>9?:9C;AI9(=8(\h@D9I?ADA;E=C(=8(\hO(:=B>A-

?9D(;=(;K9(\h(=8(;K9(<;A?;ECI(>GF>(/i132[(

S<(E;(:AC(:F9A?FR(]9(<99CP(A(D9bCE;9(AD`G<;B9C;(=8(;K9(]A<E:E;R(E<(C9:9<<A?R(;=(AH=ED(A(<EICEb:AC;(\h@D9I?A-DA;E=C(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(G<ECI(;K9(<=FH9C;()j%j*F[(%C(<>E;9(=8(h&@ADDE;E=CP(;K9(a9?=(<K9A?(HE<:=<E;E9<(=8(8?9<K(>?9>A?9D(<=FG;E=C<(D9:?9A<9(8?=B(0166.(hA<(A;(>+(1.[iP(;=(1-17.(hA<(A;(>+(-[i(ACD(;=(1064.(hA<(A;(>+(6[.P(ACD(;K9(\h

*G=MAB(=8(=];AEC9D(b]?9<(D9:FEC9<(8?=B(733(;=(70i[(

,KE<(:=??9<>=CD<(;=(A(\h@D9I?ADA;E=C(=8(3[3(;=(13[6n[(SDD9D(h&(<;A]EFE<9<(>GF>(<=FG;E=C<P(>A?;E:GFA?FR(A;(F=_9?(>+P(]G;(C9H9?;K9F9<<(A(<BAFF(EB>A:;(_A<(D9;9:;A]F9(=C(;K9(?K9=F=IE:AF(>A?AB9;9?<(=8(;9B>9?9D(<AB>F9<(ACD(=C(;K9(=];AEC9D(b]?9<(:KA?A:;9?E<;E:<P(_KE:K(<K=GFD(]9(DE<:G<<9D(EC(;K9(8=FF=_ECI(:KA>;9?[(S(D9bCE;9(AD`G<;B9C;(=8(;K9(>+(HAFG9(E<(EB>=<<E]F9(EC(;K9(:A<9(=8(D?R(DE<<=FG;E=C(>?=:9<<(_E;K=G;(_A;9?(?9-B=HECI[(,KE<( F9D( ;=(:9FFGF=<9(D=>9<(_E;K(<EICEb:AC;(?9DG:9D( HE<:=<E;R( F9H9F<( ACD( A( \h@D9I?ADA;E=C( =8(W3[in(A<(FE<;9D(EC(;A]F9(1[(h&(ADDE;E=C(DEDC{;(IEH9(ACR(

Table 1. Analytical data of cellulose solutions in BMIMCl.

1((\E<<=FG;E=C(;9B>9?A;G?9(1..c*P(W[i(K(DE<<=FG;E=C(( time2((\E<<=FG;E=C(W[i(K(A;(1..c*(V(0(K(A;(11.c*(V(1(K(A;((( 10.c*W((\E<<=FG;E=C(;9B>9?A;G?9(1..c*P(W[i(K(DE<<=FG;E=C((( ;EB9P(BACR(GCDE<<=FH9D(>GF>(>A?;E:F9<4((g=FG;E=C(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(A8;9?(<=FG;E=C(>?9>A?A;E=CP((( r

0(/6ic*2U(a9?=(<K9A?(HE<:=<E;R(A;(6ic*

5((g=FG;E=C(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(A8;9?(ADDE;E=CAF(;9B>9?ECI((( <;9>(0.(K(A;(6.c*DP

SU(\h

*G=MAB(=8(>?9:E>E;A;9D(:9FFGF=<9(A8;9?(<=FG;E=C((

( >?9>A?A;E=CDP

OU(\h

*G=MAB(=8(;K9(b]?9|(=?(=8(>?9:E>E;A;9D(((

:9FFGF=<9(A8;9?(ADDE;E=CAF(;9B>9?ECI(<;9>(0.(K(A;((( 6.c*||

80

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

<;A]EFE<ECI(9889:;(EC(;KE<(:A<9P(_KE:K(E<(EC(A::=?DAC:9(_E;K(;K9(?9<GF;<(8?=B()9C;EH=IFE=(9;(AF[d1.e(*=B>A?9D(;=( D?R( DE<<=FG;E=C( >?=:9<<( _E;K=G;( h&@ADDE;E=C( ;K9(DE<<=FG;E=C(;9B>9?A;G?9(ACD(;EB9(KAH9(;=(]9(EC:?9A<9D(;=( A:KE9H9( ;K9( <AB9( K=B=I9C9=G<( DE<<=FG;E=C( <;A;9(_K9C(h&(_A<(AF?9ADR(ADD9D(;=(;K9(>GF>(<G<>9C<E=C[(S<(A(?9<GF;P(;K9(\h(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(_A<(D9:?9A<9D(A;(7i[Wn[(f<ECI(:=B>A?A]F9(DE<<=FG;E=C(:=CDE;E=C<(_E;K(ACD( _E;K=G;( ADDE;E=C( =8( h&( /W[i( K=G?<( DE<<=FG;E=C(;EB9(A;(1..c*2(;K9(\h@D9I?ADA;E=C(_A<(F=_9?(/10[0n2(

EC(;K9(:A<9(=8(;K9(h&@<;A]EFE<9D(<AB>F9P(]G;(;K9(<=FG;E-=C(<;A;9(_A<(H9?R(EC:=B>F9;9(GCD(;K9(BE:?=(>E:;G?9(=8(;K9<9(<AB>F9(<K=_<(BACR(GCDE<<=FH9D(b]?9(?9<EDG9<(/OEIG?9(12['K9=F=IR(ACD(g"*(_9?9(G<9D(;=(:FA?E8R(;K9(:KACI9<(EC(

;K9(B=F9:GFA?(BA<<( DE<;?E]G;E=C( =8( ;K9( :9FFGF=<9<( A;(DE889?9C;( DE<<=FG;E=C( :=CDE;E=C<[( O=?( ;K9( ?K9=F=IE:AF(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(=8(;K9(>?9>A?9D(<=FG;E=C<(;9<;<(A;(=<-:EFFA;E=C(B=D9(_9?9(G<9D(8=?(;K9(:AF:GFA;E=C(=8(_9EIK-;9D(?9FAMA;E=C(;EB9(<>9:;?A(A;(A(?989?9C:9(;9B>9?A;G?9(=8(-ic*(/OEIG?9(02[(,K9<9(<>9:;?A(=8(>=FRB9?(<=FG;E=C<(A;(:=B>A?A]F9(>=-FRB9?(:=C;9C;(EC(;K9(<AB9(<=FH9C;(<K=GFD(]9(:=B>A?A-]F9(_E;K(;K9(B=F9:GFA?(BA<<(DE<;?E]G;E=C<(=8(<G:K(>=-

FRB9?(:KAEC<(_KE:K(A?9(ECH=FH9D(EC(;K9(<=FG;E=C(<;A;9[(OEIG?9(0(<K=_<P(;KA;(=CFR(<BAFF(DE889?9C:9<(9ME<;(]9;-_99C(;K9(<=FG;E=C<(A;(AD`G<;9D(>+(HAFG9(=8(1.[i(/_E;K(ACD(_E;K=G;(h&2(ACD(=8(-[i( /_E;K(h&2P(_K9?9A<( ;K9(:G?H9(A;(>+(1.[i(/_E;K(h&2(BAR(]9(ECDE:A;EH9(=8(EC-

:?9A<9D(F=CI9?@:KAEC(AB=GC;<[(gEICEb:AC;(DE889?9C:9<(A?9(HE<E]F9(G<ECI(>+(6(/_E;K(h&2[(,K9(:G?H9(ECDE:A;9<(A(<EICEb:AC;(>=FRB9?(D9I?ADA;E=CP(_KE:K(E<(<;?9CI;K9-C9D(G<ECI(]=;K(>+(6(/_E;K=G;(h&2(ACD(D?R(DE<<=FHECI(:=CDE;E=C<[( ,K9( <EICEb:AC;( D9:?9A<ECI( >9AY( K9EIK;<(A?9(EC^G9C:9D(]R(;K9(<;?=CI(:KACI9<(EC(;K9(?K9=F=IE-

Figure 1. !"#$%&'"#()$*&+,$"-.(&/*01&"23-*4&'%03$"5*1&

0"-.(4&6789%,:*#(";*<&%=&3&1$>&1"55%0;*1&532'0*&+66?@&A(9B&

C9D6E&"F&G!H!I0<&A"(.&311"("%F&%=&7?DB&JK4&L?D.&

1"55%0)("%F&("2*&3(&677MI?

Figure 3. Molecular mass distributions from SEC-measu-

$*2*F(5&%=&')0'&C9D6E&3F1&'$*'3$*1&/,$*5&)5"F-&(.*&5%0;*F(&

BMIMCl.

Figure 2. Weighted relaxation time spectra of cellulose

solutions in BMIMCl.

A

B

Table 2. N*5)0(5&=$%2&COI92*35)$*2*F(5&%=&')0'&C9D6E&3F1&'$*'3$*1&/,$*5&)5"F-&(.*&5%0;*F(&G!H!I0?&

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

61

:AF(>?=>9?;E9<(=8(;K9(<=FG;E=C<P(9<>9:EAFFR(;K9(F=_(HE<-:=<E;R(F9H9F<[(g"*(B9A<G?9B9C;<( _KE:K( _9?9( G<9D( 8=?( ;K9( DE?9:;(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(=8(;K9(B=F9:GFA?(BA<<(DE<;?E]G;E=C(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(b]?9<P(_KE:K(A?9(>?9>A?9D(8?=B(;K9(DE<-:G<<9D(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<P(:=Cb?B(;K9<9(?K9=F=IE:AF(9HAFGA;E=C<[(OEIG?9(W(/S(ACD()2(:=C;AEC<(;K9(B=F9:G-

FA?(BA<<(DE<;?E]G;E=C(:G?H9<(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(b]?9<(ACD(;K9( <;A?;ECI(>GF>(g@i13P( ?9<>9:;EH9FR[( %C(,A]F9( 0( ;K9(j

_( ACD(j

n( HAFG9<( A?9( IEH9C[(,K9( ?9<GF;<( G<ECI( D?R(

DE<<=FHECI(:=CDE;E=C<(EC(OEIG?9(W(ACD(,A]F9(0(A?9(;K9(?9<GF;<(8?=B(;K9(DE<<=FG;E=C(_E;K=G;(h&[,K9(:9FFGF=<9<(8?=B(;K9(<=FG;E=C<(A;(>+(1.[i(_E;K(ACD(_E;K=G;(h&(/)2(<K=_(A(<EBEFA?(]G;(<FEIK;FR(D9:?9A<ECI(=8( ;K9( F=CI9?@:KAEC(:=C;9C;(:=B>A?9D( ;=( ;K9(<;A?;ECI(?A_(BA;9?EAF[( OE]?9<P( >?9>A?9D( 8?=B( <=FG;E=C<( A;( >+(6[.( :=C;AECECI( ADD9D( h&( /S2P( ECDE:A;9( A( C=;E:9A]F9(<KE8;ECI(;=(<=B9(<K=?;9?(:KAEC(F9CI;K(AB=GC;<[(,K9(b]-?9<(:9FFGF=<9(?9<GF;ECI(8?=B(;K9(<KA>ECI(=8(<=FG;E=C<(A;(>+(6[.(ACD(_E;K=G;(h&(A<(_9FF(A<(G<ECI(D?R(DE<<=FG;E=C(:=CDE;E=C<(/_E;K=G;(h&2(KAH9(B=F9:GFA?(BA<<(DE<;?E]G-;E=C<(_KE:K(A?9(<EICEb:AC;FR(<KE8;9D(;=(<BAFF9?(B=F9:G-FA?(BA<<9<[('9BA?YA]F9(9889:;<(ECDE:A;9(AF<=(A(:=B>A?E<=C(=8(;K9(;9M;EF9@>KR<E:AF( >?=>9?;E9<( =8( ;K9( >?9>A?9D( b]?9<( /OEIG?9(72[(,K9(D?R@_9;(<KA>ECI(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9l)j%j*F(D=>9<(EC;=(b]?9<(A;(A(bC9C9<<(=8(1[3(D;9M(_A<(:A??E9D(=G;(A;(:=B>A?A]F9(<>ECCECI(:=CDE;E=C<(ACD(_E;K(AC(ADA>;E=C(=8(;K9(<>ECCECI(;9B>9?A;G?9(?9IA?DECI(;=(;K9(D9;9?BE-C9D( ?K9=F=IE:AF(>?=>9?;E9<(=8( ;K9( <>ECCECI(D=>9<[( %C(I9C9?AF(:9FFGF=<9(b]?9<(_E;K(I==D(>?=>9?;E9<(_9?9(=]-;AEC9D[(,9C<EF9(<;?9CI;K<(EC(;K9(:=CDE;E=C9D(<;A;9(_9?9(]9;_99C(7-[i(ACD(i-[i(:#l;9M[( %C( ;K9(_9;(<;A;9( ;K9R(FAR(]9;_99C(7i[0(ACD(i7[i(:#l;9M[(,K9(F==>(;9CA:E;E9<(

<K=_9D(HAFG9<(]9;_99C(1W[1(ACD(01[i(:#l;9M(ACD(;K9(9F=CIA;E=C<(_9?9(D9;9?BEC9D(]9;_99C(1.(ACD(10n[(,K9( ;9C<EF9( <;?9CI;K<( <K=_9D( DE<;EC:;EH9( DE889?9C:9<(D9>9CDECI(=C(;K9(h&@ADDE;E=C[(,K9(b]?9<(BAD9(8?=B(;K9(<=FG;E=C<(A;(>+(6(_E;K=G;(h&(ACD(G<ECI(D?R(DE<<=-FG;E=C( :=CDE;E=C<( KAD( :=B>A?A;EH9FR( I==D( ;9C<EF9(<;?9CI;K<(D9<>E;9(;K9(F=_(\h(ACD(:=??9<>=CDECI(B=F9-:GFA?(BA<<(DE<;?E]G;E=CP(]G;(D9:?9A<9D(F==>(;9CA:E;E9<[(,K9(9F=CIA;E=C(HAFG9<(DEDC{;(<K=_(ACR(D9>9CD9C:9(=C(;K9(DE<<=FG;E=C(:=CDE;E=C<[(

"j%jS*(Sg(*"!!f!kg"(h'k*"gg%#&(j"\%fj)9:AG<9(=8(;K9(:K9BE:AF(:=B>=<E;E=C(=8("j%jS:(;K9(AD`G<;B9C;(=8(]A<E:E;R(=8(;K9(<;A?;ECI(>GF>(<G<>9C<E=C(

Table 3. PF30>("#30&13(3&%=&#*00)0%5*&5%0)("%F5&"F&O!H!P#&+')0'&C9D6E<?

Figure 4. Q*8("0*9'.>5"#30&'$%'*$("*5&%=&#*00)0%5*&/,$*5&

from BMIMCl.

,gP(:=CD[U(,9C<EF9(<;?9CI;KP(:=CDE;E=C9D(<;A;9,gP(_9;U(( ,9C<EF9(<;?9CI;KP(_9;!==>(,U( ( !==>(;9CA:E;RP(:=CDE;E=C9D(<;A;9"F=CI[P(:=CD[U( "F=CIA;E=CP(:=CDE;E=C9D(<;A;9"F=CI[P(_9;U( "F=CIA;E=CP(_9;

1( g=FG;E=C(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(A8;9?(<=FG;E=C(>?9>A?A;E=CP((( r

0((/6ic*2U(a9?=(<K9A?(HE<:=<E;R(A;(6ic*

2((g=FG;E=C(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(A8;9?(ADDE;E=CAF(;9B>9?ECI((( <;9>(0.(K(A;(6.c*W( f<9(=8(?9:R:F9D("j%jS:(8?=B(>?9HE=G<(:9FFGF=<9((( >?=:9<<ECI(

DPSU(\h

*G=MAB(=8(>?9:E>E;A;9D(:9FFGF=<9(A8;9?(<=FG;E=C((

( >?9>A?A;E=CDP

OU(\h

*G=MAB(=8(;K9(b]?9<(/|2(=?(=8(>?9:E>E;A;9D((

( :9FFGF=<9(A8;9?(ADDE;E=CAF(;9B>9?ECI(<;9>(0.(K(A;((( 6.c*(/||2

82

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

EC(AJG9=G<(<=FH9C;(_A<(:A??E9D(=G;(=CFR(A;(>+U(6[(SC(AD`G<;B9C;(;=(KEIK9?(>+(HAFG9<(:=GFD(F9AD(;=(A(<EICE-b:AC;(D9:=B>=<E;E=C(=8(;K9("j%jS:(E;<9F8(DG?ECI(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(>?=:9<<ECI[(,K9(ADDE;E=C(=8(;K9(<;A]EFEa9?(h&(?9BA?YA]FR(EC^G9C:9<(;K9(<=FG;E=C(<;A;9<(ACD(EC(>A?;E-

:GFA?( ;K9( :9FFGF=<9( DE<<=FG;E=C( G<ECI( A( ?9:R:F9D( <=F-H9C;( /,A]F9(W2[(\G9( ;=( ;K9(KEIK(:9FFGF=<9(:=C:9C;?A-;E=C<( =CFR( ;K9( ;R>E:AF( _9;( DE<<=FG;E=C( >?=:9<<( _A<(ECH9<;EIA;9D[

,K9(?K9=F=IE:AF(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(=8(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<(EC("j%jS:(?9H9AF<(<EICEb:AC;(DE889?9C:9<(=8(;K9(<=-

FG;E=C<(<;A;9<(:=B>A?9D(;=(<G:K(EC()j%j*F[(,K9(a9?=(<K9A?(HE<:=<E;E9<(A<(_9FF(A<(;K9(HE<:=<E;R(:G?H9<(=8(;K9(BA<;9?(:G?H9<(8?=B(;K9(=<:EFFA;E=C(;9<;<(D9:?9A<9(DE<-;EC:;EH9FR(DG?ECI(;K9(;9B>9?ECI(<;9>[(,K9(8A:;P(;KA;(C=(<EICEb:AC;(8G?;K9?(\h@D9I?ADA;E=C(DG?ECI(;K9(;9B>9-?ECI( <;9>( E<( HE<E]F9P( <GII9<;<( >=FRB9?( :KAEC(B=HECI(>?=:9<<9<(EC(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C[(,K9(ADDE;E=C(=8(h&(EC^G9C:9<(<EICEb:AC;FR(;K9(<=FG;E-=C(<;A;9<(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<(=];AEC9D[(SC(ADDE-;E=C(=8(.[in(h&P(?9FA;9D(;=(:9FFGF=<9P(D9:?9A<9<(;K9(\h@D9I?ADA;E=C( =8( >?9>A?9D( b]?9<( 8?=B( 17[-n( /_E;K=G;(h&2(;=(1.[Wn[(SDDE;E=CAFFR(A(<EICEb:AC;(EC^G9C:9(=C(;K9(?K9=F=IE:AF(>?=>9?;E9<(=8(;K9(<=FG;E=C<(KA<(]99C(=]-<9?H9D[(,K9( <;A]EFEaECI( 9889:;( =8( h&( ]9:=B9<(B=?9( 9HED9C;(G<ECI(AF?9ADR(>?=:9<<9D("j%jS:(_E;K=G;(ADDE;E=CAF(:F9ACECI[(,K9(>?9>A?A;E=C(=8(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<(G<ECI(<G:K(<=FH9C;(_E;K=G;(ADDE;E=C(=8(h&(?9<GF;9D(EC(A(D?A-BA;E:(:9FFGF=<9(D9I?ADA;E=C(=8(76nP(_K9?9A<(;K9(\h@D9I?ADA;E=C(_E;K(ADDE;E=C(=8(.[in(h&(_A<(:=B>A?A]-F9(;=(;K9(<AB>F9(G<ECI(C9_(<=FH9C;(ACD(h&@ADDE;E=C[(,K9(?K9=F=IE:AF(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG-;E=C<(<GII9<;<(]9<ED9(;K9(D9:?9A<ECI(\h(AF<=(AC(EC^G-9C:9( =8( ;K9( h&@ADDE;E=C( =C( ;K9( <=FG;E=C( <;A;9<[( ,K9(HE<:=<E;R( :G?H9<( =8( ;K9( :9FFGF=<9( <=FG;E=C<(_E;K( h&@ADDE;E=C(<K=_(A(KEIK9?(F9H9F(:=B>A?9D(_E;K(;K9(:9FFG-F=<9(<=FG;E=C(G<ECI(C9_("j%jS:(_E;K=G;(h&(/OEIG?9(i2[(S( <EICEb:AC;( F=_9?( HE<:=<E;R( F9H9F( _A<( D9;9:;9D(8?=B( ;K9( :9FFGF=<9( <=FG;E=C(G<ECI( ?9:R:F9D("j%jS:(_E;K=G;(h&[(+=_9H9?P(;KE<(_A<(:AG<9D(=C(A(<EICEb:AC;(\h@D9I?ADA;E=C[(,K9(_9EIK;9D( ?9FAMA;E=C( ;EB9(<>9:;?A(=8( ;K9( <AB>F9<(

Table 4. PF30>("#30&13(3&%=&#*00)0%5*&5%0)("%F5&"F&O!H!ROJ&+')0'&C9D6E<?

Figure 5. Viscosity curves resulting from master curves

+$*=*$*F#*&(*2'*$3()$*S&@DMI<&%=&#*00)0%5*&5%0)("%F5&+')0'&

C9D6E<&"F&O!H!P#&)5"F-&F*A&3F1&$*#>#0*1&+$*#?<&5%0;*F(&A"(.&

3F1&A"(.%)(&JK9311"("%F&+7?D&A(9B4&"F&$*03("%F&(%&#*00)0%5*<?

Figure 6. Weighted relaxation time spectra, calculated

=$%2&235(*$&#)$;*5&+$*=*$*F#*&(*2'*$3()$*S&@DMI<&%=&

#*00)0%5*&5%0)("%F5&+')0'&C9D6E<&"F&O!H!P#&)5"F-&F*A&3F1&

$*#>#0*1&+$*#?<&5%0;*F(&A"(.&3F1&A"(.%)(&JK9311"("%F&+7?D&

A(9B4&"F&$*03("%F&(%&#*00)0%5*<?

1( g=FG;E=C(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(A8;9?(<=FG;E=C(>?9>A?A;E=CP((( r

0((/6ic*2U(a9?=(<K9A?(HE<:=<E;R(A;(6ic*

2(( g=FG;E=C(:KA?A:;9?E<A;E=C(A8;9?(ADDE;E=CAF(;9B>9?ECI((( <;9>(0.(K(A;(6.c*

DPSU(\h

*G=MAB(=8(>?9:E>E;A;9D(:9FFGF=<9(A8;9?(<=FG;E=C((

( >?9>A?A;E=CDP

OU(\h

*G=MAB(=8(;K9(b]?9(

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(67

6W

/OEIG?9(42(>=EC;(=G;(A(:=B>A?A]F9(I?ADA;E=C(ACD(<GI-I9<;( DE?9:;( EC;9?A:;E=C<( =8( ;K9( h&(_E;K( ;K9( :9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<( ]9:AG<9( =8( ;K9( <EICEb:AC;( KEIK9?( :G?H9<(>9AY<( :=B>A?9D( ;=( ;K9( <AB>F9( G<ECI( C9_("j%jS:(_E;K=G;(h&[(,K=<9(<AB>F9<P(_KE:K(<K=_9D(<;?=CI(>=FRB9?(D9I?A-DA;E=C(EC("j%jS:P(_9?9(ECA>>?=>?EA;9(8=?(A(:=B>A-?A]F9( D?R@_9;( <KA>ECI( ;=( b]?9<[( ,K9( =;K9?( <AB>F9<(<K=_9D(C=(<EICEb:AC;(EC^G9C:9(=C(;K9(b]?9(>?=>9?;E9<(=8(;K9(>?=DG:E]F9(:9FFGF=<9(b]?9<[(

*"!!f!kg"(h'k*"gg%#&(w%,+("j%j\"h(S(:=C<ED9?A]FR(F=_9?(F9H9F(=8(EC;9?89?9C:9<(]R(>+(AD`G<;-B9C;(ACD(h&@ADDE;E=C(A?9(=]<9?H9D(G<ECI("j%j\"h(A<(DE<<=FG;E=C(B9DEGB(8=?(:9FFGF=<9[(g=B9(ACAFR;E:AF(DA;A(=8(<G:K(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<(A?9(FE<;9D(EC(,A]F9(7[(,K9( a9?=( <K9A?( HE<:=<E;E9<( =8( ;K9( :9FFGF=<9( <=FG;E=C<(<K=_9D(BA?IECAFFR( KEIK9?( HAFG9<( ]=;K( G<ECI( KEIK9?(>+( HAFG9<( ACD( A;( :=B>A?A]F9( >+( HAFG9<( G<ECI( h&@ADDE;E=C[(S(<EICEb:AC;(D9>9CD9C:9(=8(>=FRB9?(D9I?A-DA;E=C(ACD(;K9(;9M;EF9@>KR<E:AF(>?=>9?;E9<(=8(>?=DG:E]-F9( :9FFGF=<9( b]?9<( =C( ;K9<9( DE<<=FG;E=C( :=CDE;E=C<(_A<C{;(D9;9:;A]F9[(,K9(G<9(=8(?9:R:F9D(<=FH9C;<(_A<(AF<=(;9<;9D(EC(;K9(:A<9(=8("j%j\"h[(%C(:=C;?A<;(;=("j%jS:(C=(EC:?9A<9D(D9I?A-DA;E=C(=8(:9FFGF=<9(_A<(=]<9?H9D(G<ECI(?9:R:F9D("j%j-

\"h(_E;K=G;(h&@ADDE;E=C[(,KE<(AF<=(A>>FE9<(8=?(;K9(G<9(=8(?9:R:F9D()j%j*F[(,K9(:9FFGF=<9(D9I?ADA;E=C(E<(:=B>A-?A]F9(G<ECI(C9_(ACD(?9:R:F9D()j%j*F(A;(]A<E:E;R(AD`G<;-B9C;(/>+U(1.[i2(ACD(_E;K=G;(ADDE;E=C(=8(;K9(<;A]EFEa9?(h&[(

Conclusions

\E889?9C;( E=CE:( FEJGED<(A?9(<GE;9D(8=?(DE<<=FG;E=C(ACD(>?=:9<<ECI(=8(:9FFGF=<9[(\9>9CDECI(=C(;K9(G<9D(E=CE:(FEJGED( ADA>;9D( >?9@;?9A;B9C;( ACD( DE<<=FG;E=C( :=CDE-;E=C<(KAD(;=(]9(8=GCD(8=?(AC(=>;EBAF(>?=:9<<ECI[(%C( ;K9( :A<9( =8( ;K9( G<AI9( =8( EBEDAa=FEGB( ]A<9D( E=CE:( FEJGED<(_E;K(:KF=?ED9(ACE=C<(A(D9bCE;9(AD`G<;B9C;(=8(;K9(]A<E:E;R(E<(9<<9C;EAF(;=(AH=ED(A(<;?=CI(D9I?ADA;E=C(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9[(,KE<(BEIK;(]9(A;;?E]G;9D(;=(;K9(BA?IECAF(9FEBE-CA;E=C(=8(;K9(<;?=CI(A:ED(+*F(/KRD?=:KF=?E:(A:ED2P(_KE:K(:AG<9<(:KAEC(<:E<<E=C(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9[(%C(ADDE;E=CP(;K9(EC-H9<;EIA;E=C<( <K=_9D( A( >=<<E]F9( 9889:;( =C( ;K9( A;;AECA]F9(;9C<EF9(<;?9CI;K(EB>?=H9B9C;(=8(;K9(>?9>A?9D(b]?9<(G<ECI()j%j*FP(_K9C(h&(_A<(ADD9D(A<(A(<;A]EFE<A;E=C(AI9C;[(S( <EICEb:AC;( EC^G9C:9( =8( h&( =C( ;K9( <=FG;E=C( <;A;9<(_A<( D9;9?BEC9D(=C( :9FFGF=<9( <=FG;E=C<( EC("j%jS:[(kC(;K9(=C9(KACD(h&@ADDE;E=C(A889:;<(;K9(?K9=F=IE:AF(>?=>9?;E9<(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9(<=FG;E=C<(EC("j%jS:P(=C(;K9(=;K9?(KACD(h&(:AC(AH=ED(<;?=CI(D9I?ADA;E=C(=8(;K9(:9FFGF=<9( EC( >A?;E:GFA?( ]R( B9AC<( =8( G<ECI( ?9:R:F9D("j%jS:[(

*=B>A?A]FR( F=_( 9889:;<( =8( ;K9( ;9<;9D( >?9@;?9A;B9C;(ACD( DE<<=FG;E=C( :=CDE;E=C<( _9?9( D9;9?BEC9D( G<ECI("j%j\"h(A<(:9FFGF=<9(>?=:9<<ECI(B9DEGB[(,K9(G<9(=8(?9:R:F9D(E=CE:(FEJGED<P(;KA;(B9AC<(E=CE:(FE-JGED<P(_KE:K(_9?9(AF?9ADR(G<9D(<9H9?AF(;EB9<(8=?(:9F-FGF=<9( >?=:9<<ECI( _E;K=G;( ACR( :F9ACECI( >?=:9<<P( ?9-H9AF9D(<EICEb:AC;(DE889?9C:9<(D9>9CDECI(=C(;K9(G<9D(E=CE:(FEJGED[(,K9(G<9(=8(?9:R:F9D("j%jS:(:AG<9D(A(<;?=CI(:9FFGF=<9(D9I?ADA;E=C(_KE:K(:=GFD(AH=ED(]R(AD-DE;E=C( =8( ;K9( h&( A<( <;A]EFEa9?P( _K9?9A<( EC( :A<9( =8("j%j\"h(ACD()j%j*F(C=(:KACI9<(EC(:9FFGF=<9(D9-I?ADA;E=C(:=GFD(]9(D9;9:;9D(G<ECI(?9:R:F9D(<=FH9C;<[(%C<;9ADP(;K9(AD`G<;B9C;(=8(>+(HAFG9(E<(9<<9C;EAF(EC(;K9(:A<9(=8()j%j*F[(,=(:=C:FGD9P(E;(_A<(8=GCD(;KA;(>?9@;?9A;B9C;(ACD(DE<-<=FHECI( :=CDE;E=C<( A<(_9FF( A<( AJG9=G<(>?9@;?9A;B9C;(ACD(<;A?;ECI(:=CDE;E=C<P(AD`G<;B9C;(=8(;K9(]A<E:E;R(=?(AC(ADDE;E=C(=8(<;A]EFE<ECI(AI9C;<(A?9(D9:E<EH9(G<ECI(E=-CE:(FEJGED<(8=?(:9FFGF=<9(>?=:9<<ECI[(%C(ACR(:A<9(E;(E<(C9:9<<A?R(;=(D9;9?BEC9(=>;EBAF(:=CDE;E=C<(D9>9CDECI(=C(;K9(G<9D(E=CE:(FEJGEDP(9<>9:EAFFR(<G]`9:;(;=(;K9(E=CE:(FEJGED(ACE=C[(

References

d1e( w[( N9EBP( h[(wA<<9?<:K9EDP(SCI9_[( *K9B[( %C;[("D[(0...P(W-P(W330@W3[d0e( *[(&?A9CA:K9?P(f[g[(hA;9C;P(1-W7P(1P-7WP134[dWe( '[(h[(g_A;F=<YEP(g[(N[(g>9A?P(}[(\[(+=F]?9R(ACD('[(\[('=I9?<P(}[(SB[(*K9B[(g=:[P(0..0P(107P(7-3757-3i[d7e( ,[(!E9]9?;P(S*g(gRB>=<EGB(g9?E9<P(0.1.P(s=FG-B9(1.WWP(W@i7[die( S[(hECY9?;X(N[#[(jA?<KX(g[(hACIX(j[h[(g;AEI9?P(*K9B[('9H[(0..-P(1.-P(431054306[d4e( ,[(+9ECa9P(g[(\=?CP(j[(g:K~]E;aP(,[(!E9]9?;P(g[(N~KF9?P( O[( j9E<;9?P( jA:?=B=F[( gRB>[( 0..6P( 040P(6500[d3e( "[(j=9FFBACCP(,[(+9ECa9P(,[(!E9]9?;P(g[(N~KF9?P(fg.0..-.00161WS1(0..-[d6e( ![(*KGACOGP(g[('GC*ACIP($[(SEhECIP(![(w9Ex-

ECIP(S*g(gRB>=<EGB(g9?E9<P(0.1.P(s=F[(1.WWP(*KA>-;9?(14P(06350-3[d-e( )[( N=<ACP( *[( jE:K9F<P( O[( j9E<;9?P( *9FFGF=<9(0..6P(1iP(i-@44[d1.e(&[()9C;EH=IFE=P(,[('~D9?P(j[(OA<:KECIP(j[()G:K-]9?I9?P( +[( g:K=;;9C]9?I9?P( +[( gEM;AP( !9CaECI9?( )9-?E:K;9P(0..4P(64P(1i7@141[d11e(,[(!E9]9?;P(jA:?=B=F[(gRB>[(0..6P(040P(06@W6[d10e(,[(+9ECa9P(N[(g:K_EYAFP(g[()A?;K9FP(jA:?=B=F[()E=<:E[(0..iP(iP(i0.@i0i[d1We(}[(g[(j=GF;K?=>P('[(h[(g_A;F=<YEP(&[(j=RCAP('[(\[('=I9?<P(*K9B[*=BBGC[(0..iP(1ii3@1ii-[d17e('[(*[('9B<ECIP('[(h[(g_A;F=<YEP('[(\[('=I9?<P(&[(j=RCAP(*K9B[*=BBGC[(0..4P(1031@103W[

84

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85

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Matilde C.V. Nagel and Thomas Heinze *

*?D7F?(=@("MB?GG?DB?(@=F(N=G:E;BB>;FC9?('?E?;FB>O(%DE7C787?(=@(PFI;DCB(*>?HCE7F:(;D9(Q;BF=H=G?B8G;F(*>?-HCE7F:O(RFC?9FCB>(6B>CGG?F(SDCL?FEC7:(=@(T?D;O(+8H<=G97E7F;U?(1.O(VW.XXYZ(T?D;O(&?FH;D:[*=FF?EK=D9CDI(;87>=F\(R;MJ(]Y-(/.2(Z^Y1(-Y30X0\"WH;CGJ(,>=H;E\>?CD_?`8DCWa?D;\9?\Q?H<?F(=@(7>?("8F=K?;D(N=G:E;BB>;FC9?(#?7b=Fc(=@("MB?GG?DB?(/"N#P"2\(>77KJddbbb\?KD=?\9?\?8\

Abstract

,>?(>=H=I?D?=8E(;B:G;7C=D(=@(7>?(B?GG8G=E?(9CEE=GL?9(CD(9CH?7>:G(E8G@=MC9?(/VQ6P2d7?7F;<87:G;HH=DC-8H(@G8=FC9?(7FC>:9F;7?(/,)eRfZ+

2P2(=F(N,NW9CH?7>:G;B?7;HC9?(/VQeB2d!C*G(b;E(E789C?9\(,>?(9CEE=G-

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bC7>(!"!#WB;F<=D:G9CCHC9;_=G?(/*V%2(8D9?F(HCG9(F?;B7C=D(B=D9C7C=D(;D9(8ECDI(Z(H=G(;B:G;7C=D(;I?D7(K?F(H=G(;D>:9F=IG8B=E?(8DC7\(,>?(KF=98B7E(K=EE?EE(L;G8?E(=@(7>?(9?IF??(=@(E8<E7C787C=D(/V62(<?7b??D(.\Y4(;D9(0\0X\(,>?(B?GG8G=E?(?E7?FE(b?F?(B>;F;B7?FC_?9(<:(H?;DE(=@(#Q'W(;D9(%'(EK?B7F=EB=K:O(;E(b?GG(;E(<:(&N*(;D9(E=G8<CGC7:\

Keywords:$%&'()*+,-'*./"$0(1121.&("$3/$&*'2$-,'*4-'*./"$56789:;<="$0-)>.?@1*,$-,*A9$053

Introduction

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DCDI(=@(7>?(B=DL?FEC=D\(+=b?L?FO(>=H=I?D?=8E(9?FC-L;7C_;7C=D(=@@?FE(7>?(?D=FH=8E(;9L;D7;I?(=@(I==9(;B-B?EEC<CGC7:( =@( 7>?( >:9F=M:G( IF=8KE\( ,>8EO( ;( <?77?F(B=D7F=G(=@(7>?(9?IF??(=@(E8<E7C787C=D(/V62(;D9(;(8DC-@=FH(9CE7FC<87C=D(=@( 7>?( @8DB7C=D;G(IF=8KE(;G=DI( 7>?(K=G:H?F(B>;CD(H;:(=BB8F\(,>?(H=E7(;KKGC?9(E=GL?D7(CD(G;<WEB;G?(B?GG8G=E?(?E7?FCAB;7C=D(CE(N,NW9CH?7>:G;B?7-;HC9?(/VQeB2(B=H<CD?9(bC7>(!C*G(gYh\('?B?D7G:O(;(HCM78F?(=@(9CH?7>:G(E8G@=MC9?(/VQ6P2d7?7F;<87:G;H-

H=DC8H(i8=FC9?(7FC>:9F;7?(/,)eRfZ+2P2(b;E(@=8D9(

7=( 9CEE=GL?( B?GG8G=E?O( ;D9( >;E( <??D( CDL?E7CI;7?9( @=F(>=H=I?D?=8E( 9?FCL;7C_;7C=D( =@( 7>?( <C=K=G:H?F( g4h\(

*>?HCB;G(H=9CAB;7C=D(=@(b==9(K8GKO(HCBF=BF:E7;GGC-D?( B?GG8G=E?O( ECE;G( <;E?9( B?GG8G=E?( ;D9( B=77=D( GCD7?FE(CDBG89CDI(;B:G;7C=DO(B;F<=M:H?7>:G;7C=D(;D9(<?D_:G;-7C=D(>;E(<??D(E8BB?EE@8GG:(B;FFC?9(=87(g4W11h\,>?(;B:G;7C=D(=@(B?GG8G=E?(CD(VQeBd!C*G(8ECDI(;B:G(B>G=FC9?E(;D9(;BC9(;D>:9FC9?E(bC7>(E>=F7(;Gc:G(B>;CD(CE(B=D98BCL?( 7=( ;( >CI>( 9?IF??( =@( E8<E7C787C=D( g10W1Zh\(,>?(B=DL?FEC=D(=@(B?GG8G=E?(bC7>(B;F<=M:GCB(;BC9E(<:(in-situ(;B7CL;7C=D(8D9?F(>=H=I?D?=8E(B=D9C7C=D(CE(;D(?@ABC?D7(H?7>=9(=@(B?GG8G=E?(?E7?FCAB;7C=D\(,>?(;B7C-L;7C=D(=@( 7>?(B;F<=M:GCB(;BC9(bC7>(pW7=G8?D?E8G@=D:G(B>G=FC9?( g1YW1XhO( ;D9( 1OZW9CB:BG=>?M:GB;F<=9CCHC9?(/V**2( CD( B=H<CD;7C=D( bC7>( YWK:FF=GC9CD=K:FC9CD?(/NN2( CE(;( 7:KCB;G(?M;HKG?(=@( 7>CE(E:D7>?ECE(K;7>(g13W1-hO(;G7>=8I>(7>?(F?;I?D7E(=F(7>?(EC9?(KF=98B7E(@=FH?9(98FCDI(7>?(?E7?FCAB;7C=D(/?\I\O(pW7=G8?D?E8G@=DCB(;BC92(G?;9(7=(9?IF;9;7C=D(=@(K=G:H?F(B>;CDEO(;D9(F?;I?D7(7=-MCBC7:(H8E7(<?(7;c?D(CD7=(;BB=8D7\(%D(B=D7F;E7O(7>?(in

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86

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2P(b;E(

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Experimental

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6p#,+"6%6Dissolution of cellulose in dimethyl sulfoxide

B5678C9'(')->2'@1-DD./*2D$E2.)*A($')*F@A)-'($

B:;<=GHIJ8"$&.12'*./$7KC

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2P(b?F?(E7CFF?9(;7(F==H(7?HK?F;-

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Dissolution of cellulose in N,N-dimethylacetamide

B56<,$C9L*01$B&.12'*./$7JC

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Acylation of cellulose with carboxylic acid anhydride

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Acetylation of cellulose with carboxylic acid

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Peracylation of cellulose ester, typical example

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Percarbanilation of cellulose

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Results and discussion

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Figure 1. Reaction scheme for the cellulose acylation in

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2P(b;E(?E7?FCA?9(8ECDI(B;F<=M:-

GCB(;BC9(;B7CL;7?9( in situ(bC7>(N,N'WB;F<=D:G9CCHC9;-_=G?(/*V%2\(,>?(CHC9;_=GC9?E(=@(7>?(B;F<=M:GCB(;BC9E(b?F?( =<7;CD?9( <:( B=DL?FEC=D( =@( 7>?( B;F<=M:GCB( ;BC9(bC7>(*V%(CD(VQ6P(;7(F==H(7?HK?F;78F?(/8K(7=(*

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KG?( 142( b?F?( =<7;CD?9\( ,>8EO( 7>CE( ;B:G;7C=D( K;7>( CE(L?F:(?@@?B7CL?\(eD(?MB?K7C=D(b;E(@=8D9(@=F(B?GG8G=E?(E7?;F;7?( /E;HKG?(192(bC7>( ;( G=b?F(V6(L;G8?(=@(1\Y4(

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Table 2. O(&21'&$.M$(&'()*+,-'*./$.M$,(1121.&($*/$!"!VA*D('F@1-,('-D*A(9L*01$-'$KQQR0$M.)$H$F$-SS1@*/T$-$D.1-)$)-'*.$.M$H$

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B2( VQ6P(l(9CH?7>:G(E8G@=MC9?O(#QN(l(NWH?7>:GW( (K:FF=GC9=D?O(VQR(l(N,NW9CH?7>:G@=FHC9?O(( VQeB(l(N,NW9CH?7>:G;B?7;HC9?O(E=G8<G?(/]2O(( CDE=G8<G?(/W2O(Eb=GG?D(/=2\92(#=7(9?7?FHCD?9

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-1

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KKH(;D9(CE(CDi8?DB?9(<:(9?FCL;7C_;7C=D(;7(*WZ(K=EC7C-=DO( CD( 7>CE(B;E?( 7>?(ECID;G( CE(E>C@7?9( 7=(;<=87(s = 75

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6(.\-XO(V6

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2

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n2(

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B;F<=M:GCB( ;BC9( b?F?( KF?K;F?9( ;E( 9?EBFC<?9( <?@=F?\(,>?(F?E8G7E(;F?(E8HH;FC_?9(CD(,;<G?(0\(

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<G?(CD(D=DK=G;F(E=GL?D7E(E8B>(;E(>?M;D?\(

Conclusions

,>?( CDi8?DB?(=@( B>;CD( G?DI7>( ;D9( 7:K?(=@( ;B:G;7C=D(;I?D7( =D( B?GG8G=E?( ?E7?FCAB;7C=D( CD( VQ6Pd,)eRfZ+

2P(b;E(E789C?9\(eKKG:CDI(Z(H=G(B;F<=M:GCB(

;BC9(;D>:9FC9?E(K?F(H=G(e&SO(KF=98B7E(bC7>(V6(L;-G8?E(<?7b??D(.\Y4(;D9(1\-Y(b?F?(=<7;CD?9\(6GCI>7(L;-FC;7C=D(=D(7>?(V6(L;G8?(b;E(@=8D9(@=F(B?GG8G=E?(?E7?FE(bC7>(;Gc:G(B>;CDE( @F=H(*

1( 7=(*

5O(b>CG?( G=DI?F(B>;CD(

G?;9E(7=(>CI>?F(L;G8?E\(6CHCG;F(<?>;LC=8F(b;E(@=8D9(8ECDI(B;F<=M:GCB(;BC9(LCD:G(?E7?F(;D9(;B:GW1HW<?D_=7-FC;_=G?(;E(;B:G;7C=D(;I?D7E\(,>?(>CI>?E7(?@ABC?DB:(/X.(7=(X^q2(b;E(F?;B>?9(bC7>(B;F<=M:GCB(;BC9(CHC9;_=GC-9?E\(*?GG8G=E?(?E7?F(bC7>(;Gc:G(B>;CD(<?7b??D(*

1(;D9(

C14(F?;B>?9(;(F;DI?(=@(V6(@F=H(0\.-(7=(0\0XO(;@7?F(7>;7(

7>?(V6(9?BF?;E?9(7=(1\Y4(@=F(B?GG8G=E?(E7?;F;7?\(e(KF?-@?FF?9(E8<E7C787C=D(=@(7>?(KFCH;F:(P+(IF=8KE(@=GG=b?9(<:(E?B=D9;F:(P+(IF=8KE(b;E(=<E?FL?9\(,>?(9CE7FC<8-

7C=D(=@( 7>?( ?E7?F( IF=8KE( =@( 7>?( KF=98B7E( E:D7>?EC_?9(bC7>(B;F<=M:GCB(;BC9(CHC9;_=GC9?E(CE(PW^(u(PWZ(u(PW0\("E7?FCAB;7C=D(=@(B?GG8G=E?(CD(VQeBd!C*G(bC7>(B;F<=-

92

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((34(5(-0

M:GCB(;BC9(CHC9;_=GC9?E(F?o8CF?E(>;FE>?F(9?FCL;7C_;7C=D(B=D9C7C=DE(/?\I\(1..n*(@=F(^(>2\(*?GG8G=E?(?E7?FE(bC7>(V6(<?7b??D(1\00(;D9(1\^4(b?F?(=<7;CD?9\(!C77G?(CDi8-

?DB?(=@(;B:G(B>;CD(G?DI7>(b;E(=<E?FL?9\

Acknowledgements

,>?(F?E?;FB>(G?;9CDI(7=(7>?E?(F?E8G7E(>;E(F?B?CL?9(@8D-9CDI(@F=H(7>?("8F=K?;D(*=HH8DC7:vE(6?L?D7>(RF;H?-b=Fc(NF=IF;HH?(/gRNXd0..XW0.1Zh2(8D9?F(IF;D7(;I-

F??H?D7(Dn(01Y^4Z(;D9(7>?(%D7?FD;7C=D;G()8F?;8(=@(7>?(R?9?F;G( QCDCE7F:( =@( "98B;7C=D( ;D9( '?E?;FB>( ;7( 7>?(NF=a?B7(Q;D;I?H?D7(eI?DB:( Bd=(&?FH;D(e?F=EK;B?(*?D7?F(/V!'O(KF=a?B7(D=\("&p(.3d.Z.2\

References

g1h( ,>\(+?CD_?O(Q;BF=H=G\(*>?H\(N>:EO(1--3O(1--O(0ZY1\g0h( ,>\(+?CD_?O(,\(!C?<?F7O(NF=I\(N=G:H\(6BC\(0..1O(^^O(1^3-\gZh( k\(T\("9I;FO(*\(Q\()8B>;D;DO(T\(6\(V?<?D>;HO(N\(e\('8D9o8CE7O()\(V\(6?CG?FO(Q\(*\(6>?G7=DO(V\(,CD9;GGO(NF=I\(N=G:H\(6BCO(0..1O(0^O(1^.4\gYh( *\(!\(QB*=FHCBcO(N\(e\(*;GG;CEO()\(+\(TF\(+8B>CD-E=DO(Q;BF=H=G?B8G?E(1-34O(13O(0Z-Y\g4h( ,>\(+?CD_?O('\(VCBc?O(e\(k=EB>?GG;O(e\(+\(k8GGO("\We\(kG=>FO(t\(k=B>O(Q;BF=H=G\(*>?H\(N>:E\(0...O(0.1O(^0X\g^h( &\(,\(*C;BB=O(,\(!C?<?F7O("\(RF=GGCDCO(,>\(+?CD_?O(*?GG8G=E?O(0..ZO(1.O(104\gXh( Q\(e\(+8EE;CDO( ,\( !C?<?F7O( ,>\(+?CD_?O(Q;BF=-

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-3

'56578(95:5;<=>578?(@7(A8BC68CB5(95?@D7( <E(3F!F"8G5B?(<E(*5;;C;<?5

Yunhui Wang, Andreas Koschella and Thomas Heinze*

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Abstract

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Keywords: biopolymer, cellulose, hydrogen bonding, NMR, thermal properties

Introduction

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Precursors for 3-O-alkyl celluloses

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Figure 1. Functionalization pattern of cellulose derivatives at the structural level of both anhydroglucose unit and polymer chain.

Figure 2. Selectivity of thexyldimethylsilylation of cellulose

in dependence on the reaction medium.

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65??X(%8(VM?(E<C7I(8GM8(8G5(>MQ@>C>(9A(VM?(B5M6G5I(M;B5MIK( ME85B( U( G( B5M68@<7( 8@>5( /H@DCB5( 3N( 8<=2X(,G5(><;MB( BM8@<(<E(a&JY,9PA*;(>MK(S5( B5IC65I( EB<>(1YU(8<(1Y3(=B<:@I5I(8G5(B5M68@<7(@?(6<7IC685I(E<B(0U(G(/H@DCB5(3N(S<88<>2X(#P'(@7:5?8@DM8@<7?(<E(8G5(=<;K-

>5B(ME85B(>58GK;M8@<7(<E(=<?@8@<7(3N(I5?@;K;M8@<7(M7I(M658K;M8@<7( B5:5M;5I( 8G5( ?8BC68CBM;( C7@E<B>@8K( <E( 8G5(0N[FI@F!F,9PA(65;;C;<?5X

a;8G<CDG(8G5(E<B>M8@<7(<E(,)9PA(65;;C;<?5(V@8G(9A(.XT(VM?(I5?6B@S5I(SK(RMV;<V?W@(58(M;X(@7(1-\Tc1fdN(8G@?(I5B@:M8@:5(I@I(7<8(B565@:5(>C6G(M88578@<7(@7(B5D@<?5;56-8@:5(65;;C;<?5(6G5>@?8BK(ICB@7D(8G5(=M?8(K5MB?X(i;5>>(58(M;X(B5=<B85I(8G5(?K78G5?@?(<E(,)9PA(65;;C;<?5(V@8G(9A(.X-TXc\d(%7(S<8G(6M?5?N(?5;568@:5(?@;K;M8@<7(<E(=<?@8@<7([(VM?( I5?6B@S5IX( +5@7]5( 58( M;X( @7:5?8@DM85I( 8G5( ,)9P( ?@;K;M8@<7(<E(65;;C;<?5(C=(8<(9A(0Xc1[d(%7(6<78BM?8(8<(8G5(,9PA(65;;C;<?5N(8G<?5(?K78G5?@?(B5`C@B5?(M(85>=5BM8CB5(<E(1..h*N(M(B5M68@<7(M;B5MIK(M8(B<<>(85>=5BM8CB5(K@5;I?(0N[FI@F!F,)9PA(65;;C;<?5(V@8G(9A(0X(958M@;5I(#P'(@7:5?8@DM8@<7?(ME85B(>58GK;M8@<7N(I5?@;K;M8@<7N(M7I(M65-8K;M8@<7(B5:5M;5I(8G5(?8BC68CBM;(C7@E<B>@8K(<E(8G@?(=<;K->5B(/H@DCB5(U2X(P<B5<:5BN(M(6<7:5B?@<7(M8(M(85>=5BM8CB5(<E(1..h*(VM?( E<C7I( 8<(S5( @7M==B<=B@M85(S56MC?5( ?@I5(B5M68@<7?(<66CBN(@X5XN(M(6GM7D5(@7(?5;568@:@8Kj([F><7<F!-

,)9PAFN(3N[FI@F!F,)9PAF(M7I(0N3N[F8B@F!F,)9PA(><@58@5?(V5B5(I585685IX

3-O-Ethers of cellulose

,G5(=B5=MBM8@<7(<E(3F><7<F!FEC768@<7M;@]5I(65;;C;<-

?5(58G5B?(E<;;<V?(8G5(D575BM;(?6G5>5(<E(0N[FI@F!F=B<-

8568@<7N( 3F!FM;WK;M8@<7N( M7I( 0N[FI@F!FI5=B<8568@<7X(

Figure 4. "#$"#%&!'(%)*+,-./0123,45,1/216%7819:;<=/1>9:-

-<:9:,?@AB*'C,0/::8:4-/-,-9D1>/-<E/;,31,244=,1/=./23182/,

?14.F,;/G2//,45,-87-1<181<4D,45,@AB*',G248.-F,B'TBDMS

"6HIC,3D;,"JJK&,?74114=F,B'TBDMS

,L6""C,351/2,=/1>9:31<4DF,

;/-<:9:31<4DF,3D;,30/19:31<4D6,?3;3.1/;,524=,M"NOC6

Figure 3. B/G2//,45,-87-1<181<4D,?B'C,4713<D/;,79,1>/,

conversion of cellulose dissolved in N,N-dimethyl acetami-

;/$P<&:,Q<1>,1>/R9:;<=/1>9:0>:424-<:3D/,?@B*'&:C,<D,1>/,

presence of imidazole. Dependency of the DS from the

2/301<4D,1<=/,?14.F,=4:32,231<4,3D>9;24G:804-/,8D<1F,

STUV@B*'&:V<=<;3E4:/,"VWVW6XC,3D;,524=,1>/,=4:32,231<4,

STUV@B*'&:,31,W,3D;,LW,>,2/301<4D,1<=/,?74114=F,

3;3.1/;,524=,M"WOC6

96

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((-3(4(1.0

a;WK;M8@7D(MD578?(MB5(C?CM;;K(M;WK;(@<I@I5?N(VG@;5(M;-WK;(SB<>@I5?N(F6G;<B@I5?N(M7I(?C;E<7@6(M6@I(5?85B?(MB5(?6MB65;K( M==;@5IX( 9C5( 8<( @8?( G@DG( B5M68@:@8KN( ?<I@C>(GKIB@I5(@?(C?5I(M?(SM?5(C7I5B(M7GKIB<C?(6<7I@8@<7?X(A<I@C>(GKIB<Q@I5N(VG@6G( @?(>C6G( 5M?@5B( 8<( GM7I;5N(6M7(7<8(S5(C?5IX(a7GKIB<C?(6<7I@8@<7?(MB5(GMBI;K(8<(M6G@5:5(V@8G(8G@?(B5MD578(M7I(8BM65?(<E(VM85B(@7IC65(=MB8@M;(I5?@;K;M8@<7(M7IN(G5765N(;<??(<E(?8BC68CBM;(C7@-E<B>@8KX( H@7M;;KN( 8G5( ?@;K;( 58G5B?( MB5( 6;5M:5I( <EE( SK(8B5M8>578(V@8G(858BMSC8K;M>><7@C>(eC<B@I5(8B@GKIBM-85X(,G5(3F!FM;WK;(65;;C;<?5?(W7<V7(C=(8<(7<V(M7I(8G5(8K=@6M;(?<;CS@;@8K(MB5(?C>>MB@]5I(@7(,MS;5(1X(M(A8MB8@7D(>M85B@M;Y(P@6B<6BK?8M;;@75(65;;C;<?5(/P**2N(6<88<7(;@785B?(/*!2N(?=B@65(?C;b85(=C;=(/ARR2N(I5DB55(<E(=<;K>5B@]M8@<7(/9R2N(7<8(D@:57(/7X(DX2S( 9@>58GK;( ?C;E<Q@I5( /9PAO2N( N,NFI@>58GK;( M658-M>@I5(/9Pa2N(?<;CS;5(/Z2N(@7?<;CS;5(/F2c(95DB55(<E(=<;K>5B@]M8@<7N(7<8(D@:57(/7X(DX2,G5@B( ?8BC68CB5?(V5B5( 6<7bB>5I( SK(>5M7?( <E(#P'(?=568B<?6<=K(/?55(H@DCB5(f(E<B(?<>5(5QM>=;5?2X(,G5(

?K78G5?@?( <E( 3F><7<F!F=B<=MBDK;( 65;;C;<?5( S5MB?(?<>5(6GM;;57D5?Xc00d(a;8G<CDG(8G5(=B<8<7(<E(8G5(8B@=;5(S<7I( @?( B5>MBWMS;K( M6@I@6N( 8G5B5( @?(7<(G@78(<E( 6GM@7(5;<7DM8@<7( SK( E<B>M8@<7( <E( *F*FS<7I?N( @X5XN( =CB5(3F><7<F!F=B<=MBDK;( 65;;C;<?5(VM?( <S8M@75IX(+<V5-:5BN(GKIB<D57(S<7I?(MB5(=B5?578(8GM8(G@7I5B(M(I58M@;5I(?8BC68CB5(6GMBM685B@]M8@<7(SK(>5M7?(<E(8V<FI@>57?@<-

7M;(#P'(856G7@`C5?X

,MS;5(1(?G<V?(8GM8(7<8(<7;K(?G<B8(6GM@7(58G5B?(V5B5(=B5-=MB5IX(%785B5?8@7D;KN(iMI;M(58(M;X(V5B5(MS;5(8<(?K78G5?@]5(3F!F58G5B?( S5MB@7D( ;<7DF6GM@7( >58G<QK=<;K/58GK;575(D;K6<;2( 58G5B?( V@8G( 3F1[( 58GK;575( D;K6<;( ><@58@5?( SK( 6<7:5B?@<7( <E( 0N[FI@F!F,9PA( 65;;C;<?5( V@8G(>58G<QK=<;K/58GK;575(D;K6<;2(8<?K;M85?(@7(8G5(=B5?5765(<E( @>@IM]<;5Xc0[d( a==;K@7D( >58G<QK=<;K/58GK;575(D;K6<;2( @<I@I5(M?(M;WK;M8@7D(MD578( @7( 8G5(=B5?5765(<E(?<I@C>(GKIB@I5(K@5;I5I(=B<IC68?(GM:@7D(M(9A(M?(G@DG(M?(.X\Xc0fd

Table 1. Y%!%S:Z9:,0/::8:4-/-,ZD4QD,8.,14,D4Q,3D;,1>/<2,-4:87<:<196

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((-3(4(1.0

97

aRR!%*a,%O#(OH(O',+O&O#a!(PROTECTING GROUPS,G5(C?5(<E(=B<8568@7D(DB<C=(?8BM85D@5?(57MS;5?(8G5(=B5-=MBM8@<7(<E(65;;C;<?5(58G5B?N(VG@6G(MB5(7<8(M665??@S;5(SK(6<7:578@<7M;(?K78G5?@?(=B<65ICB5?X(+KIB<QKM;WK;(

65;;C;<?5?(MB5(=B5=MB5I(@7(856G7@6M;(?6M;5(SK(6<7:5B?@-<7( <E( 65;;C;<?5(V@8G( M;WK;575( <Q@I5?X(a?(>578@<75I(MS<:5N(<QKM;WK;575(?@I5F6GM@7?(MB5(E<B>5IX(%7(6M?5(<E(GKIB<QK58GK;( 65;;C;<?5N( 75@8G5B( 58GK;575( <Q@I5( 7<B(0FSB<><58GM7<;( V@;;( K@5;I( M( C7@E<B>( =B<IC68X( ,G@?(6<C;I( S5( M:<@I5I( SK( C?@7D( <B8G<D<7M;( =B<8568@7D(DB<C=(M==B<M6G(/H@DCB5([2Xc1\d,GC?N( 0FSB<><58GM7<;( VM?( M;;<V5I( 8<( B5M68( V@8G(3NUFI@GKIB<F0HF=KBM7( @7( 8G5( =B5?5765( <E( pF8<;C575-

Figure 7.,*<024%B'&,2/-8:1-,542,3[8/48-,-4:81<4D-,?W\F,

Q$QC,45,/1>9:,0/::8:4-/,Q<1>,23D;4=,58D01<4D3:<E31<4D,

.311/2D,?3C,3D;,Y%=4D4%!%/1>9:,0/::8:4-/,?7C6

Figure 8. Temperature dependent transmittance of aqueous

Y%!%.24.9:,0/::8:4-/,-4:81<4D-,Q<1>,]329<DG,;/G2//,45,

-87-1<181<4D,45,.24.9:,G248.-,?B'Propyl

C6ML"O With kind

permission from Springer Science+Business Media:

^4:9=6,A8::6,LJ"JF,B!_,"J6"JJX$-JJLIH%J"J%JYW`%YF,

&4.92<G>1,'.2<DG/2%a/2:3G,LJ"J6

Figure 9. Topographic AFM images of polystyrene latex

.321<0:/-,?^'PF,8../2,:/51CF,^'P,0431/;,Q<1>,-131<-1<03::9,

58D01<4D3:<E/;,/1>9:,0/::8:4-/,?8../2,2<G>1CF,Y%=4D4%!%

/1>9:,0/::8:4-/,?:4Q/2,:/51CF,3D;,03274R9=/1>9:,0/::8:4-/,

?:4Q/2,2<G>1F,30042;<DG,14,MYYOC6,_=3G/,-<E/,<-,"J,b=c,"J,

b=,?+/.2<D1/;,524=,MYLOF,&4.92<G>1,?LJJICF,Q<1>,./2=<--<-

4D,524=,d:-/]</26C

Figure 5. "Y&%)*+%-./0123,45,-/:/01/;,Y%!%58D01<4D3:<E/;,

0/::8:4-/,/1>/2-,?-//,@37:/,"C6,e@><-,<-,1>/,&#Y group of

acetate because the peracetylated sample was measured

due to solubility reasons.

Figure 6. ^2/.3231<4D,45,Y%=4D4%!%>9;24R9/1>9:,0/::8:4-/,

524=,LFN%;<%!%1>/R9:;<=/1>9:-<:9:,0/::8:4-/,]<3,421>4G4D3:,

.241/01<DG,G248.-6,?S;3.1/;,524=,M"IOC6

98

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((-3(4(1.0

?C;E<7@6(M6@I(M?(6M8M;K?8(8<(K@5;I(0F/0FSB<>58G<QK285-8BMGKIB<=KBM7(M?(8G5(M;WK;M8@7D(MD578Xc0Td(,G5(<BI5B(<E(I5=B<8568@<7(<E(8G5(M;WK;M85I(0N[FI@F!F,9PA(65;-;C;<?5(VM?( E<C7I( 8<(S5(:5BK(6BC6@M;N( @X5XN( 8G5(,9PA(DB<C=?(GM:5(8<(S5(B5><:5I(bB?8(S5E<B5(M6@I(8B5M8>578(6;5M:5?( <EE( 8G5( 858BMGKIB<=KBM7(><@58@5?Xc1\d( OS:@-<C?;KN( 8G5(6<>=MBMS;K(7<7F=<;MB(,9PA(DB<C=?(=B5-:578(8G5(=B<8<7F@7IC65I(GKIB<;K?@?X,G5(58G5B(><@58K(B5D@<?5;568@:5;K(@78B<IC65I(M8(=<?@-8@<7(3(6M7(S5(C?5I(M?(=B<8568@7D(DB<C=(@8?5;EX(95?=@85(8G5(?8MS@;@8K(<E( 8G5(M;WK;(58G5B?N( 8G5( B5><:M;(<E(M;;K;(DB<C=?( @?(6<>=MBMS;K(5M?KN(5XDXN(SK( @?<>5B@]M8@<7(8<(8G5(1F=B<=57K;(58G5B(E<;;<V5I(SK(M6@I@6(6;5M:MD5c0\d

<B(SK(M(=M;;MI@C>F6M8M;K]5I(B5M68@<7Xc0-d(,G@?(>MW5?(8G5( M;;K;( 58G5B( 8<( M( :M;CMS;5( =B<8568@<7( DB<C=X( P5-8GK;M8@<7(<E(3F><7<F!FM;;K;(65;;C;<?5(M7I(?CS?5`C578(I5M;;K;M8@<7( MEE<BI?( 8G5( 6<BB5?=<7I@7D( 0N[FI@F!-me-

8GK;( 65;;C;<?5c0-dN( VG@6G( @?( 7<8( M665??@S;5( SK( <8G5B(=<;K>5B(M7M;<D<C?(B5M68@<7?X

,G@?(I5B@:M8@:5(VM?(E<C7I(8<(S5(@7?<;CS;5(@7(<BDM7@6(>5I@M(M7I(@7(VM85BX(P<B5<:5BN(M(G@DG(6BK?8M;;@7@8K(VM?(I585685IN( VG@6G( >@DG8( =B5:578( 8G5( =<;K>5B( EB<>(S5@7D(I@??<;:5IX

Properties of 3-O-alkyl celluloses

AO!J)%!%,k(a#9(,+"'Pa!()"+al%OJ',G5( ?<;CS@;@8K( <E( 3F!FM;WK;( 65;;C;<?5?( ?8B<7D;K( I5-=57I?(<7(8G5(8K=5(<E(58G5B(?CS?8@8C578X(3F><7<F!-me-

8GK;(65;;C;<?5(VM?(E<C7I(8<(S5(@7?<;CS;5( @7(6<>><7(<BDM7@6(?<;:578?(M7I(VM85BXc13d(+<V5:5BN(?V5;;@7D(@7(M=B<8@6( I@=<;MB( ?<;:578?( VM?( <S?5B:5IX( aII@8@<7( <E(!@*;( MEE<BI5I(=<;K>5B( ?<;C8@<7?N(VG@6G(VM?( 5Q=;M@-75I(V@8G(8G5(SB5MWMD5(<E(GKIB<D57(S<7I?X(H,%'(?=56-8B<?6<=K( @7( 6<>S@7M8@<7( V@8G( M( ;@75( b88@7D( >58G<I(5QG@S@85I( 8GM8( @7?85MI( <E( @78BM><;56C;MB( GKIB<D57(S<7I?(S58V557(8G5(GKIB<QK;(DB<C=(<E(=<?@8@<7(3(M7I(8G5(B@7D(<QKD57(<E(8G5(MI_M6578(a&JN(M7<8G5B(@78BM-><;56C;MB( GKIB<D57( S<7I( S58V557( 8G5( GKIB<QK;(DB<C=?( M8( =<?@8@<7( 0( M7I([(>MK( 5Q@?8( @7( 3F><7<F!-

>58GK;(65;;C;<?5X(,G5(?8B<7D(@785B6GM@7(S<7I?(@7I@6M-85I(SK(8G5(MS?<B=8@<7(M8(33U.(6>F1(V5B5(M;?<(E<B>5IN(6MC?@7D(6BK?8M;;@]M8@<7(V@8G(B5;M8@:5;K(G@DG(I5DB55(<E(6BK?8M;;@7@8KXcfd"Q857?@<7(<E(8G5(M;WK;(6GM@7(SK(<75(*+

2(><@58K(6GM7-

D5?(8G5(?<;CS@;@8K(B5>MBWMS;KX(3F><7<F!F"8GK;(65;;C-

;<?5( @?( ?<;CS;5( @7(M=B<8@6FI@=<;MB(<BDM7@6(>5I@M(V@8-G<C8( MII@8@<7( <E( !@*;X(P<B5<:5BN( 8G@?( 6<>=<C7I( @?(?<;CS;5(@7(VM85BXc1Td(,G5(@>=M68(<E(EC768@<7M;@]M8@<7(=M885B7( <7( 8G5B>M;( S5GM:@<CB( VM?( I5><7?8BM85I( SK(6<>=MB@7D( 8G5(=B<=5B8@5?(<E(3F!F58GK;( 65;;C;<?5(M7I(BM7I<>;K(EC768@<7M;@]5I(58GK;(65;;C;<?5(V@8G(?@>@;MB(

9AX(mG@;5(8G5(BM7I<>;K(EC768@<7M;@]5I(58GK;(65;;C;<-

?5(S56M>5(@7?<;CS;5(M8(M==B<Q@>M85;K(3.h*N(8G5(6;<CI(=<@78( 85>=5BM8CB5( <E( 8G5( B5D@<?5;568@:5;K( EC768@<7M-;@]5I(=B<IC68( @?( M8( [.h*X(,G@?( 6<C;I(S5( M??5??5I(SK(5K5( M7I( VM?(>5M?CB5I( C?@7D( 8G5( 856G7@`C5?( <E( 1H-

#P'(?=568B<?6<=KN(<?6@;;M8<BK(BG5<;<DKN(M7I(>@6B<FI@EE5B578@M;( ?6M77@7D(6M;<B@>58BK( /H@DCB5(T2Xc3.d(A5-:5BM;(=B<65??5?(MB5(8G<CDG8(8<(<66CB(ICB@7D(M??<6@M8@<7(M7I(D5;M8@<7(<E(8G5?5(58GK;(65;;C;<?5(I5B@:M8@:5?X(,G5-?5(V5B5(?5=MBM85I(V@8G(B5?=568(8<(85>=5BM8CB5N(8<(:M-BK@7D( I5DB55?N( <7( 6<<;@7D( M7I( GM:5( S557( ><I5;;5I(C?@7D(9A*(IM8MX(*<78BM?8@7D(V@8G(=B5:@<C?(V<BWc31dN(8G5(BG5<;<D@6M;(>5M?CB5>578?(I<(7<8(?G<V(nn8V<(I@?-8@768(VM:5?(<E(?8BC68CB5(E<B>M8@<7oo(M8(8G5(=B5?578(6<7-6578BM8@<7?(M7I(8G5(9A*(>5M?CB5>578?(?G<VN(<7(6<<-;@7DN(M7(5Q8B5>5;K(V@I5(?5=MBM8@<7(@7(85>=5BM8CB5(<E(8G5(=B<65??5?(E<B(8G5(3F><7<F!F58GK;(65;;C;<?5X

3F><7<F!FRB<=K;(65;;C;<?5(I@??<;:5?(M;?<(@7(N,NFI@->58GK;( E<B>M>@I5( /9PH2( M7I( I@>58GK;( ?C;E<Q@I5(

Figure 10. 'd*,<=3G/-,45,>4D/904=7,f:=-,=3;/,524=,?3C,

LFN%1>/R9:;<=/1>9:-<:9:,?@B*'C,0/::8:4-/F,?7C,Y%!%?=/1>4R9,

.4:9?/1>9:/D/,G:904:CFdTCY%LFN%@B*',0/::8:4-/F,?0C,

Y%dTX%LFN%@B*',0/::8:4-/F,3D;,?;C,Y%dT

"N%LFN%@B*',

0/::8:4-/6,'03:/,732,`,==6MLNO,?+/.2<D1/;,Q<1>,./2=<--<4D,

524=,MLNO6,,&4.92<G>1,LJJX,S=/2<03D,&>/=<03:,'40</19C6

Figure 11.,^2/.3231<4D,45,Y%=4D4%!%?Yg%>9;24R9.24.9:C,

0/::8:4-/,79,>9;2474231<4D$,4R<;31<4D,45,Y%=4D4%!%3::9:,

cellulose.

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((-3(4(1.0

99

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Subsequent reactions

OXIDATIONOQ@IM8@<7(<E(B5D@<?5;568@:5;K(EC768@<7M;@]5I(65;;C;<?5(58G5B?(MEE<BI5I(7<:5;(I5B@:M8@:5?X(O75(=<??@S@;@8K(E<;-;<V?( 8G5(GKIB<S<BM8@<7g<Q@IM8@<7(?6G5>5(<E(M;W575?(K@5;I@7D( =B@>MBK( M;6<G<;?( M?( I5><7?8BM85I( V@8G( M(0N[FI@F!F,9PAF3F><7<FOFM;;K;( 65;;C;<?5( /H@DCB5(112Xc0.d(,G5(,9PAFDB<C=?(B57I5B(8G5(=<;K>5B(,+H(?<;CS;5X( ,G5( 6<>=<C7I( VM?( M;;<V5I( 8<( B5M68( V@8G(-FS<BMS@6K6;<c3X3X1d7<7M75(8<(K@5;I(8G5(S<BM75(I5B@-:M8@:5(M7I(8G57(8G5(<Q@IM8@:5(6;5M:MD5(V@8G(M(#MO+gH

2O

2(>@Q8CB5(K@5;I?(8G5(=B@>MBK(M;6<G<;X

ACS?5`C578(8B5M8>578(V@8G(,)aH(MEE<BI5I(8G5(3F><-

Figure 12. "Y&,)*+%,3D;,Bd^@"Y`,)*+,-./0123,45,

Y%=4D4%!%=/1>9:%N%03274R9,0/::8:4-/,?3C,3D;,Y%!%7819:%

N%03274R9,0/::8:4-/,?7C,?+/.2<D1/;,524=,MYNOF,&4.92<G>1,

?LJJHCF,Q<1>,./2=<--<4D,524=,d:-/]</2C6

Figure 13. Plot of surface tension of aqueous solutions

?:/51F,"\F,]$]C,Y%=4D4%!%=/1>4R9/1>9:,0/::8:4-/,4 and

Y%=4D4%!%=/1>4R9/1>9:%N%03274R9,0/::8:4-/,5MY`O and

?2<G>1F,J6`\F,]$]C,45,Y%=4D4%!%=/1>9:%N%03274R9,0/::8:4-/,

?1aCF,Y%=4D4%!%/1>9:,0/::8:4-/,?2CF,Y%=4D4%!%/1>9:%N%032-

74R9,0/::8:4-/,?2aCF,3D;,Y%!%7819:%N%03274R9,0/::8:4-/,?3aC,

]/2-8-,=/3-82<DG,1<=/,?+/.2<D1/;,524=,MYNOF,&4.92<G>1,

?LJJHCF,Q<1>,./2=<--<4D,524=,d:-/]</2C6

1..

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Figure 14. Bd^@"Y`,)*+,-./0128=,45,-/04D;,G/D/231<4D,

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,G5(`CM;@8K(<E(57]K>5(6<C=;@7D(<7(8G5(?<;@I(?C==<B8?(VM?(I585B>@75I(SK(?=56@b6(57]K>5(M68@:@8KN(B5=B<IC-

6@S@;@8KN(6<C=;@7D(5Eb6@576KN(M7I(?8<BMD5(?8MS@;@8KX[F95<QKF[FM]@I<(65;;C;<?5(VM?(B57I5B5I(VM85BF?<;CS-;5( SK( 8G5( @78B<IC68@<7( <E( M7@<7@6( 6MBS<QK>58GK;(DB<C=?X(,G5(?<;CS@;@8K(@?(7<8(6GM7D5I(SK(8G5(6;@6WFB5-M68@<7(V@8G(=B<=MBDK;FRaPaP(I57IB<7?XcU0d(l@?6<->58B@6( 856G7@`C5?( M7I( M7M;K8@6M;( C;8BM6578B@ECDM8@<7(V5B5( 5>=;<K5I( 8<( 6GMBM685B@]5( 8G5( >M6B<><;56C;MB(=B<=5B8@5?(<E(8G5?5(I5B@:M8@:5?X(a7(@>=<B8M78(b7I@7D(@?(8GM8(I57IB<7@]M8@<7(;5MI?(8<(M7(@76B5M?5(@7(?5I@>57-8M8@<7(6<5Eb6@578(/V@8G(@76B5M?@7D(I57IB@8@6(D575BM8@-<72N(G<V5:5BN(M(I56B5M?5(@7(@78B@7?@6(:@?6<?@8KX(%8(6<C;I(S5( ?G<V7( EB<>( ?5I@>578M8@<7( 6<7E<B>M8@<7( ]<7@7D(8GM8(8G5(6MBS<QK>58GK;(I5<QKFM]@I<(65;;C;<?5(M7I(8G5(6MBS<QK>58GK;([FI5<QKF/1FNFc1N0N3F8B@M]<;<dFUF=<;K-

M>@I<M>@752( 65;;C;<?5( I5B@:M8@:5?( =<??5??( M( ?5>@Fe5Q@S;5(6<@;(6<7E<B>M8@<7X(,G5(:M;C5?(<E(=5B?@?85765(;57D8G( <S8M@75I( EB<>( 6<>S@75I( M7M;K?@?( E<B( 8G5?5(?M>=;5?(M;?<(@7I@6M85(M(?5>@Fe5Q@S;5(6<@;(6<7E<B>M8@-<7( @7( ?<;C8@<7X(,GC?N( I57IB<7@]M8@<7( <E( 6MBS<QK>5-8GK;M85I(I5<QKFM]@I<(65;;C;<?5(GM?(7<(<B(<7;K(M(BM8G5B(?>M;;(@7eC5765(<7(8G5(6GM@7(?8@EE75??(M7I(8G5(6<7E<B->M8@<7(@7(?<;C8@<7X

Conclusions

,G5( =B5=MBM8@<7( <E( 65;;C;<?5( I5B@:M8@:5?( =<??5??@7D(V5;;FI5b75I(?8BC68CB5?(@?(?8@;;(M(:5BK(6GM;;57D@7D(8M?WX(

95B@:M8@:5?( B5?C;8@7D( EB<>( 8G5( ?K78G5?@?( ?8BM85D@5?N(7M>5;K(8G5(B5D@<?5;568@:5(EC768@<7M;@]M8@<7(:@M(?5;56-8@:5;K(=B<85685I(65;;C;<?5(I5B@:M8@:5?(M7I(?CS?5`C578(6<7:5B?@<7?N(MB5(:M;CMS;5(>M85B@M;?(E<B(8G5(5?8MS;@?G-

>578(<E(?8BC68CB5F=B<=5B8KFB5;M8@<7?G@=?X(,G5(B5?5MB6G(I@?6C??5I( @7( 8G@?( B5:@5V(MB8@6;5( 6;5MB;K( @7I@6M85?( 8G5(@>=<B8M765(<E(B5D@<6G5>@?8BK(<7(65;;C;<?5X(%8(VM?(I5-><7?8BM85I( 8GM8( 8G5( EC768@<7M;@]M8@<7( <E( 8G5( ;<V5?8(B5M68@:5(?@85(@7(8G5(B5=5M8@7D(C7@8(<E(65;;C;<?5(6<C;I(S5(M66<>=;@?G5I( SK( C?@7D( I@EE5B578( =B<8568@7D( DB<C=(856G7@`C5?X(P<B5<:5BN(?<>5(B5D@<?5;568@:5;K(EC768@<-

7M;@]5I( 65;;C;<?5( 58G5B?( ?5B:5I( M?( ?8MB8@7D(>M85B@M;?(E<B(I5B@:M8@:5?(8GM8(MB5(7<8(5M?@;K(M665??@S;5(SK(6<7-

:578@<7M;(6G5>@6M;(>58G<I?X

Acknowledgements

,G5(B5?5MB6G(;5MI@7D(8<(8G5?5(B5?C;8?(GM?(B565@:5I(EC7-I@7D( EB<>( 8G5("CB<=5M7(J7@<7(A5:578G(HBM>5V<BW(RB<DBM>>5(/HRTg0..TF0.132(C7I5B(DBM78(MDB55>578?(7<X(01U.1f(/A,"RF%,#2(M7I(7<X(01U[f3(/ACBEC765;;2(M?(V5;;(M?(EB<>(8G5(%785B7M8@<7M;()CB5MC(<E(8G5(H5I5-BM;(P@7@?8BK(<E("IC6M8@<7(M7I('5?5MB6G(M8(8G5(RB<_568(PM7MD5>578(aD576K(6g<(&5B>M7(a5B<?=M65(*5785B(/9!'N(=B<_568(7<X("&k(.\g.3.2X

References

c1d( 9X(i;5>>N(,GX(+5@7]5N()X(RG@;@==N(mX(mMD57-W756G8N(aX(R<;K>X(1--TN(U\N(0TTXc0d( ,GX( +5@7]5N( iXR58]<;IN( @7Y( tP<7<>5B?N( R<;K-

>5B?( M7I( *<>=<?@85?( EB<>( '575VMS;5( '5?<CB65?tN(PX(#X()5;DM65>N(aX(&M7I@7@N("I?XN(";?5:@5B(!8IXN(OQ-

E<BIN(0..\N(==X(3U3Xc3d( &X(H5;@QN(LX(*GB<>M8<DBX(a(0..1N(-.[N(1T1XcUd( aX(i<?6G5;;MN(9X(H577N(#X(%;;KN(,GX(+5@7]5N(PM6-B<><;X(AK>=X(0..[N(0UUN(f-Xcfd( ,X(i<7I<N(aX(i<?6G5;;MN()X(+5CS;5@7N(9X(i;5>>N(,GX(+5@7]5N(*MBS<GKIBX('5?X(0..\N(3U3N(0[..Xc[d( +X(aX(A6GCK857N(LX(mX(m5M:5BN(LX(9X('5@IN(LX(HX(LuBD57?N(LX(a>X(*G5>X(A<6X(1-U\N(T.N(1-1-XcTd( aX( A85@7N( 9X( i;5>>N(PM6B<><;X( *G5>X( 'M=@I(*<>>C7X(1-\\N(-N(f[-Xc\d( 9X(i;5>>N(PX(A6G7MS5;BMC6GN(aX(A85@7N()X(RG@;-@==N(mX(mMD57W756G8N(%X(#5G;?N(RM=@5B(1--.N(UUN([0UXc-d( JX(A6GC;I8N()X(RG@;@==N(9X(i;5>>N(aX(A85@7N(+X(LM76W5N(%X(#5G;?N(RM=@5B(1--UN(U\N(3Xc1.d(9X(i;5>>N(aX( A85@7N( LXPXAXFRCB5(a==;X( *G5>X(1--fN(a30N(\--Xc11d(aX( i<?6G5;;MN( 9X( i;5>>N( PM6B<><;X( AK>=X(1--TN(10.N(11fX

1.0

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><;X()@<?6@X(0..1N(1N(U-Xc1Ud(9X(H577N(aX(RE5@E5BN(,GX(+5@7]5N(*5;;C;X(*G5>X(,56G7<;X(0..TN(U1N(\TXc1fd(mXRX(RMV;<V?W@N(AX(AX(AM7WMBN('X(9X(&@;S5B8N('X("X(H<B75?N(LX(R<;K>X(A6@X(a(R<;K>X(*G5>X(1-\TN(0fN(33ffXc1[d(,GX(+5@7]5N(aX(RE5@E5BN(iX(R58]<;IN()@<'5?<CB65?(0..\N(3N(T-Xc1Td(aX(i<?6G5;;MN(9X(H577N(,GX(+5@7]5N(R<;K>X()C;;X(0..[N(fTN(33Xc1\d(9X(H577N(,GX(+5@7]5N(*5;;C;<?5(0..-N(1[N(\f3Xc1-d(,GX(+5@7]5N(aX(i<?6G5;;MN(*MBS<GKIBX('5?X(0..\N(3U3N([[\Xc0.d(iX(A6GC>M77N(aX(RE5@E5BN(,GX(+5@7]5N(PM6B<><;X(AK>=X(0..-N(0\.N(\[Xc01d(,GX(+5@7]5N(aX(RE5@E5BN(lX(AMBS<:MN(aX(i<?6G5;;MN(R<;K>X()C;;X(0.1.N(9O%Y(1.X1..Tg?..0\-F.1.F.3UfF3Xc00d(9X(H577N(PX(R<G;N(,GX(+5@7]5N('5M68@:5(HC768X(R<;K>X(0..-N([-N(3UTXc03d(#X(%;;KN(9@=;<>M(,G5?@?N(HB@5IB@6G(A6G@;;5B(J7@-:5B?@8K(<E(L57M(0..[Xc0Ud(iX( R58]<;IN( 9X( i;5>>N( )X( +5CS;5@7N( mX( )CB-6GMBIN(&X(AM:@7N(*5;;C;<?5(0..UN(11N(1TTXc0fd()X( )X( )MBF#@BN( LX( HX( iMI;MN( *MBS<GKIBX( R<;K>X(0..-N(T[N([.Xc0[d(LX(HX(iMI;MN(HX(+X(a?E<CBN()X()MBF#@BN()@<>M6B<-><;56C;5?(0..TN(\N(1[1Xc0Td(PX(aB@?MVMN(*X(iM8<N(+X(iM75W<N(aX(#@?G@IMN(PX(#MWMDMVMN(LX(*G5>X(A<6X(R5BW@7(,BM7?X(0...N(1(10N(1\T3Xc0\d(,X(i<7I<N(*MBS<GKIB('5?X(1--3N(03\N(031Xc0-d(+X( iM>@8MWMGMBMN( aX( i<?6G5;;MN( kX( P@WMVMN(HX#MWM8?CS<N( ,GX( +5@7]5N( 9X( i;5>>N( PM6B<><;X()@<?6@X(0..\N(\N([-.Xc3.d(AX(AC7N(,X(LX(H<?85BN(mX(PM6#MCDG8M7N(LX('X(P@8-6G5;;N(9X(H577N(aX(i<?6G5;;MN(,GX(+5@7]5N( LX(R<;K>X(A6@X()(R<;K>X(RGK?X(0..-N(UTN(1TU3Xc31d(aX( +M`C5N( "X( 'X( P<BB@?N( *MBS<GKIBX( R<;K>X(1--3N(00N(1[1Xc30d(aX(mM;;?8Bv>(m5775B?8BM7IN(PX(O;??<7N(!X(LwB7-

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c3Td(+X(*X(i<;SN(PX(&X(H@77N(iX()X(AGMB=;5??N(a7D5VX(*G5>X(0..1N(113N(0.f[Xc3\d(,X( !@5S5B8N( *X( +w7?6GN( ,GX( +5@7]5N(PM6B<><;X('M=@I(*<>>C7X(0..[N(0TN(0.\Xc3-d(,GX(+5@7]5N(PX(A6GvS@8]N(PX(R<G;N(HX(P5@?85BN(LX(R<;K>X(A6@X(a(R<;K>X(*G5>X(0..\N(U[N(3\f3XcU.d(PX( R<G;N( ,GX( +5@7]5N( PM6B<><;X( 'M=@I( *<>-

>C7X(0..\N(0-N(1T3-XcU1d(PX(R<G;N(#X(P@6GM5;@?N(HX(P5@?85BN(,GX(+5@7]5N()@<>M6B<><;56C;5?(0..-N(1.N(3\0XcU0d(PX(R<G;N(&X(aX(P<BB@?N(AX("X(+MBI@7DN(,GX(+5@7]5N("CBX(R<;K>X(LX(0..-N(UfN(1.-\X

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1.3

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Danuta J. Mozdyniewicz1 and Herbert Sixta2, 3*

1(M9NG>=>AOO>A=7DN(+9EO(&N8+P(QE=>A8>7?>7(R=7S(T-P(U.U.(!@AOP(QDC=7@62(!>AO@A?(Q&P(V>7FC=76W>(1P(UXT.(!>AO@A?P(QDC=7@63(Y>G67=N>A=(9H(Z97>C=([79<DB=C(,>B:A9E9?;P(Q6E=9(\A@I>7C@=;(RB:99E(9H(RB@>AB>(6A<(,>B:A9E9?;P(( ]D97@N@>:>A=@>(1P([S^S()9L(1T3..P("CG99P_(:>78>7=SC@L=6`66E=9Sa

Abstract

,:>(G79<DB=@9A(9H(B>EEDE9C>(a87>C(8;(=:>(I@CB9C>(G79B>CC(:6C(8>>A(FA9bA(H97(N97>(=:6A(6(B>A=D7;P(8D=(C=@EE(C9N>(6CG>B=C(67>(A9=(CDHaB@>A=E;(DA<>7C=99<S(,:>(B6789:;<76=>C(@A(=:>(GDEG(67>(>LG9C><(=9(I67;@A?(B9A<@=@9AC(<D7@A?(=:>(N6ADH6B=D7@A?(G79B>CCS(%A(=:>(a7C=(C=>G(=:>(C=79A?(6EF6E@A>(=7>6=N>A=(E>6<C(=9(DA<>C@768E>(E9CC(7>6B=@9ACS(,:>(8>:6I@9D7(9H(B>EEDE9C>(@A(6EF6E@A>(>AI@79AN>A=(b6C(CD8c>B=(9H(C>I>76E(C=D<@>C(6A<(6(ADN8>7(9H(F@A>=@B(N9<>EC(<>CB7@8@A?(B>EEDE9C>(<>?76<6=@9A(b>7>(CD??>C=><S(%A(6(ADN8>7(9H(@AI>C=@?6=@9AC(=:>(>LG>7@N>A=C(b>7>(G>7H97N><(DA<>7(=:>(>LBEDC@9A(9H(9L;?>A(=9(G7>I>A=(DA<>C@768E>(9L@<6=@9A(7>6B=@9ACS(+9b>I>7P(=:@C(6GG796B:(<@HH>7C(H79N(@A<DC=7@6E(G79B>CC(B9A<@=@9AC(b:>7>(=:>(G7>C>AB>(9H(6@7(B9DE<(@A=79<DB>(C9N>(9L;?>AS(,9(>C=@N6=>(=:>(>HH>B=(9H(9L;?>A(9A(B>EEDE9C>(<>?76<6=@9AP(aA6E(8E>6B:><(8>>B:(d?J86C><(6B@<(CDEa=>(GDEG(b6C(=7>6=><(b@=:(C9<@DN(:;<-

79L@<>(6=(e.f*(@A(=:>(G7>C>AB>(6A<(68C>AB>(9H(67?9A(H97(=@N>(G>7@9<C(DG(=9(T3(:9D7CS(,:>(7>CDE=C(CD??>C=(=:6=(9L;?>AJ@A@=@6=><(:9N9E;=@B(<>?76<6=@9A(G6=:b6;CP(C@N@E67E;(=9(=:9C>(9BBD77@A?(<D7@A?(=:>(6?@A?(G79B>CCP(67>(7>-CG9AC@8E>(H97(=:>(6<<@=@9A6E(gJB>EEDE9C>(H97N6=@9A(@A(=:>(G7>C>AB>(9H(9L;?>A(6=(E9A?(C=>>G@A?(=@N>S(%A(=:>(B6C>(9H(C:97=(C=>>G@A?(=7>6=N>A=CP(6C(9BBD7@A?(<D7@A?(@A<DC=7@6E(G79B>CC>CP(=:>(@AKD>AB>(9H(6@7J9L;?>A(9A(=:>(;@>E<(E9CC(6A<(*^Y(H97N6=@9A(@CP(:9b>I>7P(A>?E@?@8E>S

Keywords: Dissolving pulp, viscose pulp, steeping, alkaline degradation, air exclusion

Introduction

,:>(I@CB9C>(G79B>CC(@C(C=@EE(=:>(<9N@A6=@A?(G79B>CC(H97(=:>( N6ADH6B=D7>( 9H( N6AJN6<>( B>EEDE9C>( a87>CS( ,:>(8796<(a>E<(9H(6GGE@B6=@9AC(6A<(=:>(G9CC@8@E@=;(9H(G79-

G>7=;(6<cDC=N>A=(B9A=7@8D=>( =9( =:>(<9N@A6AB>(9H( =:>(I@CB9C>(a87>CS(QE=:9D?:(=:>(G79B>CC(:6C(8>>A(6GGE@><(H97(N97>(=:6A(6(B>A=D7;P(HD7=:>7(@NG79I>N>A=C(7>?67-<@A?(;@>E<(@AB7>6C>(6A<(=:>(6GGE@B6=@9A(9H(8;JG79<DB=C(C>>N( =9(8>(G9CC@8E>S(YD7@A?( =:>(N6ADH6B=D7@A?(G79-

B>CC( =:>( B6789:;<76=>C( @A( =:>( GDEG( 67>( >LG9C><( =9(C=79A?E;(6EF6E@A>(B9A<@=@9AC(<D7@A?(I@CB9C>(G7>G676=@-9A(6A<(C=79A?E;(6B@<@B(B9A<@=@9AC(<D7@A?(=:>(7>?>A>76-=@9A(G79B>CCS(,:>(C=>>G@A?(9H(GDEG(b@=:(6(e(d(C9<@DN(:;<79L@<>(6hD>9DC(C9ED=@9A(6HH>B=C(=:>(B9AI>7C@9A(9H(B>EEDE9C>(%(=9(B>EEDE9C>(%%(i1jS(,:>(B:6A?>(@A(C=7DB=D7>(

@C( A>B>CC67;( =9( >ACD7>( 6( ?99<( 6BB>CC@8@E@=;( H97( =:>(L6A=:6=@9A(7>6B=@9AS([676EE>E(=9(=:>(B:6A?>(9H(=:>(B7;C-=6E(C=7DB=D7>(:>N@B>EEDE9C>C(6A<(C:97=JB:6@A(B>EEDE9C>(67>( <@CC9EI><S( ,:>( b>EE( N@L><( CED77;( 9H( 6EF6E@( 6A<(GDEG(@C(<>b6=>7><(=9(98=6@A(6EF6E@(B>EEDE9C>(G7@97(=9(=:>(6?@A?(G79B>CC(b:>7>(=:>(<>?7>>(9H(G9E;N>7@C6=@9A(@C(6<cDC=><(=9(=:>(7>hD@7><(E>I>E(@A(=:>(aA6E(G79<DB=(i0jS(V:@E>(Y[(7><DB=@9A(<D7@A?(6?@A?(@C(G>7H97N><(DA<>7(B9A=79EE68E>(B9A<@=@9AC(DA=@E(6(=67?>=(I6ED>(@C(7>6B:><P(=:>( <>?76<6=@9A( 7>6B=@9AC( <D7@A?( C=>>G@A?( B6DC>( DA-

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Experimental

[\![(,'"Q,d"#,Q( ,*Z( 8E>6B:><( 8>>B:( d?J86C><( 6B@<( CDEa=>( GDEG(b6C( DC><( H97( =:>( >LG>7@N>A=CS( ,:>( <7;( C:>>=C(b>7>(<@C@A=>?76=><(=9(G@>B>C(6C(CN6EE(6C(G9CC@8E>(=9(>A68E>(6(=:979D?:(E;>(G>A>=76=@9AS(QhD>9DC(C9ED=@9A(9H(C9<@DN(:;<79L@<>(/1X(l(.S.0k2(b6C(DC><(6C(6(C=>>G@A?(N><@-DN(6=(6(GDEG( =9( E@hD97( 76=@9(9H(1mT.S(,:>( =7>6=N>A=C(b>7>( B677@><( 9D=( @A( 6( 79DA<J89==9N( K6CF( >hD@GG><(b@=:( 6(N6?A>=@B( C=@77>7( 6A<( 6( =:>7N9N>=>7S(,:>( E;>(b6C(G7>:>6=><( =9(e.f*(6A<(6<<><( =9( =:>(GDEG(DA<>7(I@?979DC(C=@77@A?(=9(>ACD7>(6(:9N9?>A9DC(<@C=7@8D=@9A(9H( =:>(a87>C( @A( =:>( C9ED=@9AS(,:>( =>NG>76=D7>(9H( =:>(N><@DN(b6C(F>G=(B9AC=6A=(<D7@A?(=:>(>A=@7>(=7>6=N>A=(=@N>SZ97( =:>( >LG>7@N>A=C(b@=:( 6@7( >LBEDC@9AP( =:>( C9<@DN(:;<79L@<>( C9ED=@9A( b6C( KDC:><( b@=:( 67?9A( 8>H97>(:>6=@A?S(RD8C>hD>A=E;P(=:>(b:9E>(6GG676=DC(b6C(>I6-BD6=><(6A<(KDC:><(b@=:(67?9A(C>I>76E(=@N>CS(QH=>7(=:>(@A@=@6E(C=>>G@A?(=@N>P( =:>(CDCG>AC@9A(7>N6@A><(@A(=:>(7>6B=97P(?>A=E;(C=@77><(H97(DG(=9(T3(:9D7CS(

Z'Q*,%^#(R"[Q'Q,%^#QH=>7(>LG@7><(=@N>(=:>(CDCG>AC@9A(b6C(aE=>7><(6A<(=:>(QH=>7( =:>( =67?>=><( =@N>(b6C( 7>6B:><P( =:>( CDCG>AC@9A(b6C(aE=>7><(6A<(=:>(C9E@<(7>C@<D>(b6C(A>D=76E@O><(b@=:(0.k(6B>=@B(6B@<P(b6C:><(DA=@E(A>D=76E(6A<(6EE9b><(=9(<7;(DA<>7(6N8@>A=(B9A<@=@9ACS(,:>(;@>E<(9H(=:>(@AC9ED-8E>(B>EEDE9C>(H76B=@9A(b6C(<>=>7N@A><(?76I@N>=7@B6EE;S(%A=7@AC@B(I@CB9C@=;(N>6CD7>N>A=C(9H(=:>(@AC9ED8E>(B>E-EDE9C>( H76B=@9A( b>7>( G>7H97N><( 6H=>7( <@CC9ED=@9A( @A(*DG7@>=:;E>A><@6N@A>( 6BB97<@A?( =9( =:>( R*Q#J*d(1em--(N>=:9<S(,:>( 6N9DA=( 9H( B6789L;E@B( ?79DGC( @A(=:>(@AC9ED8E>(H76B=@9A(b6C(<>=>7N@A><(8;(=:>(N>=:;E>-A>(8ED>(6<C97G=@9A(N>=:9<(i10P(13jS(,:>(<@CC9EI><(nJB>EEDE9C>(H76B=@9A(b6C(G7>B@G@=6=><(8;(=:>( 6<<@=@9A( 9H( 6A( >hD6E( I9EDN>( 9H( <@ED=>( CDEG:D7@B(6B@<(/+

2SO

4m+

2^(1m32(=9(=:>(E;>(DA<>7(I@?979DC(C=@7-

7@A?S(Z97(hD6A=@=6=@I>(6A6E;C@C(=:>(G7>B@G@=6=>(b6C(aE-=>7><(=:79D?:(6(.SUe(oN(B>EEDE9C>(aE=>7S(,9(98=6@A(E67-

Figure 1. Cellulose reactions during alkaline steeping.

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G9C@=@9A(@C(?@I>A(@A(Z@?D7>(0S

Results and discussion

,:>(>LG>7@N>A=C(9H(=:>(GDEG(;@>E<(E9CC(7>6B=@9AC(<D-

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Figure 2. Treatment of the pulp and the residuals.

Figure 3. Decrease of the cellulose yield loss in presence

and absence of the inert gas.

1.T

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Z@?D7>(U(@EEDC=76=>C(=:>(B9D7C>(9H(@A=7@AC@B(I@CB9C@=;(6A<(=:>(B6789L;E@B(?79DG(B9A=>A=(9H(=:>(7>?>A>76=><(GDEG(6C(6(HDAB=@9A(9H(C=>>G@A?(=@N>(@A(=:>(G7>C>AB>(9H(6@7J9L;-?>AS(,:>(@AB7>6C>(@A(6B@<@B(?79DG(B9AB>A=76=@9A(B6A(8>(6CC@?A><(=9(N>=6C6BB:67@A@B(6B@<(H97N6=@9A(<D>(=9(=:>(C=9GG@A?(7>6B=@9AS(QC(6(7>CDE=P( =:>(7>N6@A@A?(B>EEDE9C>(8>B9N>C(C=68E>(=9(=:>(CDBB>CC@I>(G>>E@A?(7>6B=@9Aq(:9b-

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,:>( H97N6=@9A( 9H( C9ED8E>( <>?76<6=@9A( G79<DB=C( b6C(N9A@=97><(8;(=:>(<>=>7N@A6=@9A(9H( =9=6E(97?6A@B(B67-89A(6A<(=:>(B:>N@B6E(9L;?>A(<>N6A<(9H(=:>(C9ED=@9ACS(,:>7>H97>(89=:(G676N>=>7C(b>7>(6A6E;C><(@A(=:>(97@?@-A6E(E;>(6A<(@A(=:>(6hD>9DC(C9ED=@9A(6H=>7(=:>(G7>B@G@=6-=@9A(9H(8>=6JB>EEDE9C>(8;(6B@<@aB6=@9A(6A<(=:>(CD8C>-hD>A=( 7>N9I6E( 9H( =:>( 7>N6@A@A?( C9E@<( 7>C@<D>S( ,:>(<@HH>7>AB>( @A( 89=:( N>6CD7>N>A=C( b6C( <>aA><( 6C(nJB>EEDE9C>(H76B=@9A(b:@B:(@C(N6@AE;(B9NG9C><(9H(L;-E6A(6A<(CN6EE(6N9DA=C(9H(C:97=(B:6@A(B>EEDE9C>S(,:>( 98=6@A><( 7>CDE=C( 67>( <@CGE6;><( @A( Z@?D7>( TS( %=(C:9bC( =:>( @A<>G>A<>AB>( 9H( =:>( B9A=>A=( 9H( =:>(nJB>EEDE9C>(H76B=@9A(9A(6@7J9L;?>AS(Q(CE@?:=(<>B7>6C>(B6A(8>(@<>A=@a><(<D>(=9(6(G79?7>CC@I>(<>?76<6=@9A(9H(=:>( C:97=( B:6@A( B>EEDE9C>(9H( =:>(nJB>EEDE9C>( H76B=@9AP(8D=(@=(G79B>><C(C@N@E67E;(@A(89=:(B6C>CS(,:>( =9=6E( 6N9DA=( 9H( =:>( C9ED8E>( gJB>EEDE9C>( H76B=@9A(@AB7>6C>C(CE@?:=E;(H6C=>7(@A(=:>(G7>C>AB>(9H(6@7J9L;?>A(=:6A(@A(=:>(68C>AB>(9H(6@7J9L;?>AS(,:@C(8>:6I@9D7(G79-B>><C(G676EE>E(=9(=:>(;@>E<(E9CC(<>I>E9GN>A=S(

Figure 4. Comparison of the gravimetrically determined cellu-

lose yield loss and the corresponding intrinsic viscosity loss of

!"#$%#&#'#%(!#)$*+,*$-'$*%#.#'/#$01$(-%2034&#'$56$7$89$:;<$=>?$

7$@9>ABC

Figure 5. Intrinsic viscosity and carboxyl group content of

the regenerated pulp as a function of the treatment time in

*%#.#'/#$01$(-%2034&#'C$56$7$89:;<$=>?$7$@9>ABC

Figure 6.$ 6D;$ (')$ ;DE$ /0'!#'!.$ 01$ !"#$ %#.-)+(,$ ,4#$ (!$ 89:;<$ FG$ (')$ H$ 2$ 1%(/!-0'.$ 0I!(-'#)$ (1!#%$ *%#/-*-!(!-0'$ J-!"$

HK?D

L:H

KD$5A>MBC

!"#$%#&"'()"'%*+,"(-.(/0.102(((((1.3(4(1.5

Conclusions

,:>(7>CDE=C(98=6@A><(@A(=:@C(C=D<;(C:9b(=:6=(=:>(G7>-C>AB>(9H(6@7J9L;?>A(<D7@A?(6EF6E@A>(C=>>G@A?(9H(8>>B:(d?J86C><(6B@<(CDEG:@=>(<@CC9EI@A?(GDEG(>A:6AB>C( @=C(;@>E<(E9CCP(G67=@BDE67E;(6=(E9A?>7(=7>6=N>A=(=@N>CS(,:>(=@N>(<>G>A<>AB;(9H(=:>(;@>E<(E9CC(@AB7>N>A=(CD??>C=C(=:6=(9L;?>AJ@A@=@6=><(:9N9E;=@B(<>?76<6=@9A(G6=:b6;CP(C@N@E67E;( =9(6?@A?P(67>(7>CG9AC@8E>(H97( =:>(6<<@=@9A6E(gJB>EEDE9C>(H97N6=@9A(@A(=:>(G7>C>AB>(9H(9L;?>AS(M@-A>=@B( @AI>C=@?6=@9ACP( :9b>I>7P( 7>I>6E><( =:6=( =:>(G79-

?7>CC@I>(@AB7>6C>(@A(89=:(;@>E<(E9CC(6A<(B:6@A(CB@CC@9A(6=(E9A?>7(7>6B=@9A(=@N>C(4(6C(9BBD77@A?(6EC9(@A(=:>(68-

C>AB>(9H(9L;?>A(J(N6;(8>(N6@AE;(6==7@8D=><(=9(76A<9N(:;<79E;C@C(H9EE9b><(8;(C>B9A<67;(G>>E@A?(6C(N9A@=9-

7><(8;(*^Y(6A<(,^*(N>6CD7>N>A=CS((%A(=:>(B6C>(9H(C:97=(C=>>G@A?(=7>6=N>A=CP(6C(9BBD7@A?(<D7@A?(@A<DC=7@-6E(G79B>CC>CP(=:>(@AKD>AB>(9H(6@7J9L;?>A(9A(=:>(;@>E<(E9CC(6A<(*^Y(H97N6=@9A(@CP(:9b>I>7P(A>?E@?@8E>S

Acknowledgments

Z@A6AB@6E( CDGG97=( b6C( G79I@<><( 8;( =:>( QDC=7@6A(?9I>7AN>A=P( =:>( G79I@AB>C( 9H( E9b>7(QDC=7@6P( DGG>7(QDC=7@6P(6A<(*67@A=:@6(6C(b>EE(6C(8;(!>AO@A?(Q&S(V>(6EC9( >LG7>CC( 9D7( ?76=@=D<>( =9( =:>( r9:6AA>C( M>GE>7( \A@I>7C@=;P(!@AOP(=:>(\A@I>7C@=;(9H(#6=D76E('>C9D7B>C(6A<(QGGE@><(!@H>(RB@>AB>CP(]@>AA6P(6A<(!>AO@A?(Q&(H97(=:>@7(@AJF@A<(B9A=7@8D=@9ACS

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[8]S( +66C(YVP(+7D=a97<()ZP(R67F6A>A(M]S(1-T5S(M@-A>=@B(C=D<;(9A(=:>(6EF6E@A>(<>?76<6=@9A(9H(B9==9A(:;<79-B>EEDE9C>S(r(QGGE([9E;N(RB@(11meX5[9]S( !6@(uJ$P(R67F6A>A(M]S(1-T5S(M@A>=@BC(9H(6EF6E@A>(:;<79E;C@C(9H(?E;B9C@<@B(89A<C(@A(B9==9A(B>EEDE9C>S(*>E-EDE(*:>N(,>B:A9E(1me15J05[1.]S(]6A(!99A(!'P(&E6DC(dQP(!6D8>(QP(R=6EE9A>(RS(1---S(Y>?76<6=@9A(9H(B>EEDE9C@B(N6=>7@6EC(DA<>7(=:>(6E-F6E@A>(B9A<@=@9AC(9H(6(B>N>A=@=@9DC(7>G9C@=97;(H97(E9bJ(6A<(@A=>7N><@6=>JE>I>E(76<@96B=@I>(b6C=>S(%%S(Y>?76<6=@-9A(F@A>=@BCS(r("AI@79A([9E;N(Y>?76<(5mU1Je1[11]S(&E6DC(dQP(]6A(!99A(!'P(QB:6=O(RP(*:9<D76(QP(Z@CB:>7(MS(1---S(Y>?76<6=@9A(9H(B>EEDE9C@B(N6=>7@6EC(DA-<>7(=:>(6EF6E@A>(B9A<@=@9AC(9H(6(B>N>A=@=@9DC(7>G9C@=97;(H97(E9b(6A<(@A=>7N><@6=>(E>I>E(76<@96B=@I>(b6C=>([67=(%m(%<>A=@aB6=@9A( 9H( <>?76<6=@9A( G79<DB=CS(QA6E( *:@N@B6(QB=6(3-Xm111J00[10]S([:@E@GG()P('>:<>7(VP(!6A?(+S(1-TeS($D7(*6789L;E-8>C=@NNDA?(@A(*:>N@>O>EEC=9HH>AS(Y6C([6G@>7(1-m1J-[13]S(V:@C=E>7('!S(1-T3S(d>=:9<C(@A(B6789:;<76=>(B:>-N@C=7;S(#>b(u97F(v(!9A<9Am(QB6<>N@B([7>CCS(3e(J(T(GGS

1.5