BUYINGGUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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THIS MONTH 2 ARGENTINA

25 AUSTRALIA

28 CALIFORNIA

52 OREGON

58 WASHINGTON

62 IDAHO

62 VIRGINIA

63 NEW YORK

67 OTHER AMERICA

67 PORTUGAL

72 SPAIN

76 BORDEAUX

92 SOUTHWEST FRANCE

96 NORTHERN ITALY

99 TUSCANY

105 OTHER ITALY

106 GERMANY

112 GREECE

114 GLOBAL

115 SPIRITS

117 BEER

ALA

MY

20212021APRIL

Harvest worker holding Malbec grapes

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS

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BUYINGGUIDE

Mendoza, where about 80% of Argenti-na’s wine is produced, is not known for overly challenging weather or severe vintage variation. To the contrary, this

high-elevation desert region regularly bene-fits from plentiful daytime sun backed by cool Andean nights devoid of humidity.

Yet the harvests of 2014 through 2016 were anything but normal, with frosts, hail storms, rot and mildew, and even an El Niño year (2016) with drench-ing rains yielding wines that spanned the gamut of qual-ity while often falling short of Argentina at its best.

Fortunately for fans of Argentine wines, those difficult years are now largely in the rear-view mirror, replaced by a more familiar and welcome batch of wines from 2017, 2018 and 2019. By and large, the current crop of wines, led by the country’s signature Malbec, is in top form. Overall quality has proved to be high, especially among wines from 2018, a year that saw near-perfect growing conditions.

“We consider 2018 to be very nice, with more grapes compared with 2017, which had the lowest yields in the last 50 years,” said Karim Mussi, winemaker with Altocedro and several other labels. “We had a warm and dry season. Full ripeness came around 10 days early, with a great temperature range during the end of the

season, assuring almost perfect phenolic ripeness.”

Signs point in the right direction for 2019 as well. “Both 2018 and 2019 were very good years, with normal yields, something that is important because when yields are too low, ripeness arrives faster,” said Sebastián Zuccardi, wine-maker at Familia Zuccardi.

The bottom line: Now is a good time to stock up on Argentine wines. Mal-becs from 2017 through 2019 are the best they can be and in full distribution, while other vari-eties (including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay) and blends also benefit-ted from excellent conditions.

Cheers! —Michael Schachner

Time to stock upARGENTINA

Overall quality has proved to be high, especially among

wines from 2018, a year that saw near-

perfect growing conditions.

Continued on page 22

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | APRIL 2021

MALBEC

93 4 Gatos Locos 2018 Malbec (Gualtallary). An opaque color and aromas of crisply spiced

blackberry and smoke form the opening on this fine Malbec from Gualtallary in the Uco Valley. A con-centrated palate is anchored by grabby tannins that should resolve with more bottle age. Toasty black-berry and cassis flavors are backed by chocolaty notes, while this feels smooth and doesn’t grind on the finish. Enjoy through 2023. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

93 Kaiken 2017 Mai The First Malbec (Mendoza). A dark color and rich aromas of blackberry,

graphite, coconutty oak, raisin and saddle leather open this full-bodied Malbec with dry tannins. Baked blackberry, prune, chocolate and herbal fla-vors cover the full spectrum of varietal tastes, while

this remains bold and stout on a heavy finish. Drink through 2026. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

92 Argento 2018 Single Vineyard Finca Agrelo Organic Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Mild

herbal and gamy notes add character to meaty blackberry and cassis aromas, while this Malbec from an excellent vintage feels full, smooth and chewy. Fully ripe and dense blackberry and choco-late flavors finish warm and steady, with concentra-tion and balance. Enjoy now through 2024. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $40

92 Bodega Furlotti 2013 Finca Adalgisa Malbec (Mendoza). Ripe, earthy black fruit aromas

are balsamic and suggest boozy spice cake. Follow-ing the nose, this Malbec from a very good vintage is jammy in feel, with thorough ripeness. Prune, raisin, molasses and cassis flavors wrap up quickly

on a slightly hot finish. Drink now. Brazos Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

92 Bodega Rolland 2011 Yacochuya Malbec (Cafayate). A huge and sappy nose smells

smoky and creamy, with soupy dark-berry aromas along with heat and green notes. Like the bouquet, this is full and thick in feel. Saturated blackberry, chocolate, fig and raisin flavors are hot and intense, while the structure of this massive Malbec is heavy but in no way elegant. Drink through 2024. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —M.S. abv: 16.5% Price: $75

92 Terrazas de Los Andes 2017 Parcel N°10W Los Cerezos Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Early aro-

mas of latex and Band-Aid yield to ripe plum and cassis, while this parcel-specific Malbec is drawing and scratchy in feel. Herbal blackberry, plum and cassis flavors are short on depth and complexity, while this tastes mildly oaky on a finish with dry, rubbing tannins. Drink through 2024. Moët Hen-nessy USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $100

91 Bodega Polo 2017 Herencia la Palabra Mal-bec (Uco Valley). Black cherry and black-

berry aromas include a hint of vanilla, while this is anchored by juicy acidity. Flavors of oaky vanilla, plum and blackberry are convincing but nothing unique for Uco Valley Malbec, while this is easy-going on the finish. Drink through 2022. One Vine Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $48

91 Finca La Anita 2017 Malbec (Agrelo). Reedy berry aromas are earthy and herbal, with a

touch of grassy green. A flush and lively palate is full and edgy, while this Malbec tastes of oak, berry fruits, herbs and peppery spice. Mint and herbal spice flavors are notable on a finish where the fruit evaporates almost immediately. Drink through 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Kaiken 2018 Ultra Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page 14.

abv: 14.5% Price: $20

91 Luca 2018 Historia de Familia Malbec (Uco Valley). An opaque dark-purple color and

aromas of cinnamon, graphite and jammy black-berry announce a palate that’s medium in intensity. Flavors of light oak, baking spice and blackberry are familiar for Argentina, while this magnum of Malbec shows smooth tannins and medium depth on the fin-ish. Drink through 2022. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $75/1.5 L

91 Mendoza Vineyards 2018 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Spicy blackberry and dark plum

aromas are balsamic and earthy, with a hint of

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97 Le Dôme 2018 Saint-Émilion. A wine that celebrates Cabernet Franc, this comes from

a parcel on the lower slope of Saint-Émilion. Its perfumed richness is profound and dense in struc-tured black fruits. Old vines give concentration and add to the great power behind it all. This is a wine to age; drink from 2026. World’s End LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $210

97 Schramsberg 2012 J. Schram Rosé (North Coast). This wonderful wine layers together

subtle red fruit, cinnamon, tamarind and savory, meaty accents for an extraordinarily complex out-come. Mouthfilling and rich in texture but also lively and bright in underlying acidity, it is beau-tifully balanced and will age well. Best from 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $160

97 Three Sticks 2018 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a tremendously

bright expression from a famous site. It is exuber-ant in tangy lemon, crushed rock and sea spray, with lasting acidity that tapers it all. Offering a beauti-ful mix of texture and nuanced earthiness, this is a wholly memorable wine. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

96 Contucci 2016 Mulinvecchio (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Truffle, tilled earth, rose,

camphor and star anise aromas slowly take shape on the nose of this elegantly structured red. Radiant and savory, the bright, focused palate showcases juicy Morello cherry, strawberry compote and ground cin-namon before a licorice close. Tightly wound, refined tannins and fresh acidity keep it balanced and give it an ageworthy structure. Drink 2024–2036. Spe-cialty Cellars. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55

96 Lail 2018 Blueprint Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From a range of sites and

expertly blended by Philippe Melka and his team, this wine has 5% Petit Verdot and spent 18 months in French oak, half of it new. Black olive, pencil shaving, sage and cedar provide a savory context against which concentrated black cherry and plum play. Coffee makes an appearance on the finish. Enjoy 2028–2035. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $80

96 Penfolds 2018 Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is the first vintage of

the Australian producer’s foray into Napa Valley. It is tightly structured yet supple, bursting in bright currant and strawberry flavors. Savory components of sage, dried herb and black pepper dot the palate alongside silky tannins and chocolate-laced rich-ness. A fresh touch of blood orange arises on the fin-ish. Enjoy from 2028–2033. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Edi-tors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey.

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol-lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALSAll tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

ABOUT THE SCORESRatings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed.

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONSEditors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual-

ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark.

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEWProducts should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our website.

LABELSLabels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at winemag.com/ratings

BUYINGGUIDE


96 Theopolis 2018 Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Yorkville Highlands). This singular wine

from Theodora Lee is one of the top expressions of this variety. Arresting aromas of menthol, lav-ender, black pepper and rosemary excite interest on the nose before darkly concentrated black-fruit flavors hit the palate. Firm tannins and a lip-smacking, appetizing textural bite beautifully play off the dramatic flavors. Not for the faint of heart, this medium- to full-bodied wine will be best from 2023–2030. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

96 Three Sticks 2018 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This estate wine brings

together notes of forest, crushed rock and spiced dark cherry, focused by a mineral-driven undertone. It shows understated power and leans graceful in style, built by supple, balanced tannins that enclose it all. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $70

96 Three Sticks 2018 William James Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From a

cool-climate site near Freestone, this is an effu-sive wine that is tangy, succulent and edgy in style. Nutmeg, clove and black tea wrap around layers of blueberry and black cherry, all built around supple tannins. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $70

95 Abbott Claim 2017 X Omni Vineyards Char-donnay (Eola-Amity Hills). Laying claim to

top-tier Oregon Chardonnay status, this luscious vineyard selection marries buttered apple, ripe papaya and mango fruit to pinpoint accents of barrel toast. It’s hedonistic in the best sense, balanced and bold, big but precise and thoroughly delicious. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $115

95 Bee Hunter 2016 Docker Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Alluring black-

cherry and cinnamon aromas lead to generous, concentrated, lip-smacking flavors in this superb, full-bodied and well-balanced wine. The depth and focus of the fruit flavors are impressive, riding a rich texture that enhances the lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

95 Chappellet 2017 Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). From the producer’s

mountainous estate, this is blended with 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec. It displays the power of elevation, revealing dense layers of sage and black currant highlighted by cedar and graphite. Cellar-ing is recommended; enjoy from 2027–2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $250

95 Justice 2018 Frontier Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). This

is an earthy interpretation of this wonderful grape from a well-respected site better known for Caber-net Sauvignon. Cedar, dried herb, black olive and cocoa powder highlight a hearty frame of supple red fruit, crushed rock and dark chocolate, finishing in a bold tannic structure. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $225

95 Justin 2016 Focus Syrah (Paso Robles). This is a booming, powerful bottling, starting

with lush and hearty aromas of black fruit, roasted game and grilled fig. The palate is dense and vis-cous, with dark boysenberry and more roasted fig flavors as well as hints of violet and lavender. But, it’s the savory side of black pepper and rich grilled meat that carry the weight. —M.K. abv: 16% Price: $110

95 Justin 2016 Isosceles Reserve (Paso Robles). Clean lines of blackberry jam, charred toast

and crushed slate make for a focused nose in this reserve blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot. It is very dense and thick on the palate, where mocha, caramel, loamy earth and dark berry flavors align into an lusciously rich yet elegantly dry experience. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $115

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95 Luis Duarte 2017 Rubrica (Alentejano). An array of six grapes have come together to

produce this impressive wine. The result is rich and intensely structured, powered by tannins, beauti-ful wood aging and black plum fruits. It is serious, concentrated and still youthful. Best enjoyed from 2023. Specialty Cellars. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

95 Penfolds 2018 Bin 149 Cabernet Sauvignon (Global). This wine is a blend of grapes from

Napa Valley (85.1%) and South Australia (14.9%). A tannic structure gives way to a welcome juiciness of tangy cranberry and currant flavors. French and American oak aging impart a moderate level of toast and vanilla tones, with accents of cedar, dried herbs and black pepper chiming in. The bright acidity lasts through a long, supple finish. Treasury Wine Estates. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $149

95 Penfolds 2018 Quantum Bin 98 Cabernet Sauvignon (Global). The inaugural release

of this red combines 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with 13% Shiraz, using grapes from both Napa Valley and South Australia. Dark and brooding, it deliv-ers a smooth, textured palate of bright red fruit and supple, integrated tannins, with meaty undertones along a continuum of black pepper, graphite and leather. Treasury Wine Estates. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $700

95 Quinta das Carvalhas 2018 Carvalhas Old Vines (Douro). From a single parcel of field

blend vines and foot trodden in an open lagar, this wine is majestic in its richness and structure. While never overpowering, it shows weighty, dense black-berry and plum flavors. It is still young and will def-initely benefit from further aging. Drink from 2024. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $100

95 Saracco 2019 Moscato d’Asti. From the pro-ducer that put Moscato d’Asti on the map,

this exhilarating, fragrant wine offers heady aro-mas of citrus blossom, yellow stone fruit, lemon and botanical herb. Reflecting the nose, the savory, vibrant palate doles out juicy apricot and yellow peach while notes of sage and rosemary add depth. Crisp acidity balances the sweetness and gives it a pristine, tangy finish while a foaming mousse lends finesse. WinesU. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 6% Price: $17

95 Schramsberg 2011 Reserve (North Coast). Complexity and seamlessness are the hall-

marks of this elegant, crisp and well-aged wine made from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. From aromas of toasted walnut and ginger to tangy white-peach, almond and tamarind flavors, this layered and creamy-textured sparkler builds great interest and ends with a lingering finish. Best from 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $130

95 White Walnut 2018 Worden Hill Rd. Chardon-nay (Dundee Hills). This new project is the

work of Chris Mazepink, formerly with Archery Summit. A field blend of cofermented clones using native yeasts, whole clusters and a mix of vessels, it’s cutting edge in every way. Rich and penetrat-ing fruit flavors of apple, melon and peach are per-fectly supported by citrusy acidity. It’s balanced and dense, with plenty of aging potential. Drink through 2030. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $55

94 Abbott Claim 2018 Due North Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This highlights tart

cherry fruit with nuanced notes of tanned leather, cut tobacco, lemon rind and black tea. The flavors combine gracefully and move into soft tannins laced with almond paste and milk chocolate. It’s a complex, balanced and tasty wine, made from all Pommard vines from the estate’s original 2001 planting. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $115

94 Bluebird Hill 2018 South Block Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Done in a mod-

ern style that keeps alcohol in check and doesn’t shy away from well-managed phenolics, this brings blackberry and black cherry fruit into focus. High-lights include black olive, anise and espresso. There’s a drying minerality—not too much—and excellent length. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $49

BUYINGGUIDE


94 Casa Emma 2018 Harenae (Colli della Tos-cana Centrale). Made entirely in amphora,

this delicious Sangiovese has inviting, earthy aro-mas of ripe black plum, truffle, blackberry, baking spice and blue flower. Reflecting the nose, the envel-oping, chewy palate doles out mouthfuls of fleshy Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, cinnamon and tobacco. Velvety tannins provide the almost lush framework while fresh acidity picks up the finish. Drink through 2025. Serendipity Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30

94 Dal Maso 2016 Pas Dosé Riserva Metodo Classico (Lessini Durello). Crisp and pris-

tine, this vibrant, focused sparkler has delicate aro-mas of hawthorn, white stone fruit and citrus. Racy and bone-dry, the savory, gleaming palate delivers juicy Meyer lemon, Anjou pear, saline and a hint of bread dough. Tiny, persistent bubbles provide the elegant backdrop. Downey Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

94 De Sante 2018 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Bright, understated and classy, this light-

bodied wine is delicately layered in green apple and pear flavors. Subtle oak notes unfold on the delicate structure, while earthy accents linger on the com-plex finish. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $45

94 De Sante 2018 The Old Vines (Napa Valley). This field blend includes Sauvignon Vert,

Sémillon, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. Together, they sing harmoniously and turn into a crisp, fresh and lightly styled wine. It offers flavors of lemon, lime and blossoms, with a finishing note of green apple. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $40

94 Dei 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Full bodied and savory, this lovely wine opens

with aromas of wild cherry, camphor, sunbaked earth and baking spice. It’s smooth and delicious, doling out juicy black cherry, ripe plum, cinnamon and white pepper. Polished, enveloping tannins provide elegant support while a licorice note lingers on the close. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

94 Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Rued Vineyard Char-donnay (Green Valley). From a clone once

called the Chardonnay Musque selection, this wine is highly aromatic and fresh. Juicy tropical fruit and tangerine flavors remain crisp and brilliant, leading to a complex midpalate of Meyer lemon and pear. The finish is topped by lasting, lingering layers of hazelnut. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

94 Gary Farrell 2017 Grist Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This delicate wine is a

breath of fresh air for the variety—an expressive, lengthy and vibrant take that tastes great. Baking spice, orange and cranberry flavors highlight the graceful palate, balanced by bright acidity and a flourish of lavender on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

94 Jasper Hill 2018 Georgia’s Paddock Riesling (Heathcote). From a small, cool-climate

region north of Melbourne, this burnished gold-hued wine opens in aromas of lemon oil and candied ginger alongside melted butter, toffee, mushroom and mineral streaks. The palate is dry and rich but not unctuous thanks to lively acidity and a gingery bite. The finish is seemingly endless. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12% Price: $37

94 Jax 2018 4 Barrels Cabernet Franc (Calis-toga). An impressive version of the variety,

this wine is thick in black cherry and mocha flavors. The tannins are supple and elongated, adding com-plexity and structure to the juicy richness that is accented by toasted oak and cedar. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $60

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94 Jax 2018 Block 3 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal-istoga). This is a 100% varietal wine that

impresses from first sip. Softly layered and well integrated, it has broad, fresh and supple richness highlighted in cedar, dried herb, sage and dense red fruit. The length and breadth are breathtakingly memorable. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

94 John Duval Wines 2017 Eligo Shiraz (Barossa). This bottling offers notes of

plum, blackberry, dark chocolate, mint, cedar and tobacco, with a distinctive underbelly of green pep-percorn spice. The palate is full-bodied but not heavy, with great depth of flavor, muscular tan-nins and silky fruit. It offers plenty of precision and charm. Drink now–2035. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

94 Penley Estate 2019 Phoenix Cabernet Sau-vignon (Coonawarra). This excellent wine

offers aromas of blueberry, currant, terra cotta, iodine, savory spices and an umami-like seaweed nuance. There’s lovely depth of flavor, tannin struc-ture and regional expression on the palate. Drink through 2040. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $20

94 Quinta das Carvalhas NV 20 Year Old Tawny Port. At the perfect moment of aging, this

20-year-old Port is smoothly textured and rich in dried fruits that are balanced by wood and spice fla-vors. This is a very fine wine, ready to drink now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $60

94 Quinta das Carvalhas 2018 Vintage Port. This is a finely perfumed wine from a blend

of old vines. It shows rich flavors of dried fruits and fresh plums. It also has a terrific structure and a tannic character that will allow it to age. Drink from 2030. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $70

94 Rangeland 2016 Limestone Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Adelaida District). Lush aromas

of black currant, plum skin, clove, star anise, lilac and loamy soil make for a very complex and layered nose in this bottling. Chiseled tannins frame a dynamic sip, where milk chocolate and star anise accent the rich cherry-compote and orange-rind flavors. —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $50

94 Seppeltsfield 2018 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). All the hallmarks of Barossa Shiraz are here

without much fuss. A heady, fruity nose of cherry and currant ride a wave of baking spice, mocha, fur-niture polish and earthy, mineral tones. The tannins are powerful but fine and nicely textured. There’s also enough polish here for a bit of cellaring. Drink now–2025. Legend Imports. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 15% Price: $22

94 Stone Edge Farm 2015 Estate Bottled Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Blended

with 13% Cabernet Franc, this beautifully styled wine is sourced primarily from the producer’s estate vineyard on Moon Mountain. Sanguine, herbal and earthy, it dazzles in peppercorn, leather, cedar and gracefully structured tannins. Dark chocolate and plum add subtle richness as a note of crushed rock closes things out. Enjoy from 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $130

94 White Walnut 2018 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Winemaker and owner Chris Maze-

pink has a deft touch with the grape, weaving a com-plex mix of tree fruits, citrus peel and light touches of cracker and cookie dough. Flavors are deep and well-delineated, finishing with suggestions of lemon drop candy, honeydew and bee pollen. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

BUYINGGUIDE


94 Wine & Soul 2018 Pintas (Douro). Trodden by foot in open lagars and then aged in wood

for nearly two years, this wine is darkly colored and densely textured. It comes from a field blend of old vines. It is richly structured and sure to age well. Don’t drink before 2024. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $115

93 Ancient Peaks 2017 Oyster Ridge (Santa Margarita Ranch). Aromas of black plum,

sandalwood, coffee, tea and smoked teriyaki show on the savory nose of this blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Merlot. The palate shows meatier tones of smoked beef, hoisin sauce and cracked pepper, with a caramelized finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

93 Boscarelli 2017 Sotto Casa Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). A blend of 80%

Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot, this has heady aromas of cassis, spice, menthol and rose. Elegantly structured and savory, the taut, enveloping palate features ripe Marasca cherry, licorice and espresso set against polished, fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2027. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $77

93 Carol Shelton 2018 Coquille Rouge (Central Coast). This blend of Carignan, Grenache,

Mourvèdre, Alicante Bouschet and Petite Sirah from the San Joaquin Valley is a stunner. Dense aromas of fudge, boysenberry syrup and candied lilac lead into a smooth, silky palate of roasted black cherry, charred fig, Dr Pepper spice and shaved chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

93 Centralas 2019 Syren Spear Vineyards Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Very light in the glass,

this is an extremely fresh, bright and zesty bottling, beginning with snappy aromas of pomegranate and tarragon. The refreshing palate smashes raspberry, strawberry and cherry together with dewy herbs and buoyant acidity. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $39

93 Gancia 2011 Cuvée 60 Mesi Riserva Brut (Alta Langa). Aromas of chamomile, acacia

honey and bread crust follow over to the focused palate along with ripe yellow apple, cedar, hazelnut and citrus. Vibrant acidity keeps it remarkably fresh and energized while a silky, continuous perlage lends finesse. Roust. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

93 J. Lohr 2018 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This widely available bot-

tling remains a very wise choice for the price point. Dark in the glass, it begins with cassis, pie crust and baking spice on the nose, yet there’s a savory black-olive touch as well. Firm yet polished tannins carry dark fruit, cocoa and light licorice through the dense palate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $35

93 Joyce 2019 Submarine Canyon Pinot Noir (Monterey). Raspberry and hibiscus aromas

meet with mint, ginger, carnation and wet earth on the nose of this red. The palate combines those earthy tones with dried raspberry, a hint of roast pork and bright rose-petal flavors, finishing on a tart cranberry tone. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

93 Knights Bridge 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Thick and substantial on

the palate, this 100% varietal wine was given time in 85% new French oak. Cranberry, red currant and dark cherry meet an earthy, well-integrated core of dried herb, graphite and sage. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $115

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93 Landmark 2018 Damaris Reserve Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Complex, layered and rich

in style, this white offers texture and fresh under-lying acidity. Tastes of white peach, Gravenstein apple and pear mingle effortlessly across a lengthy palate that’s nuanced in oak and baking spice. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

93 Lester 2018 Mercurio Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Very light in the glass, this bot-

tling begins with aromas of bay leaf, wet sage, tart raspberry and a hint of toast. The palate packs in roasted flavors of grilled plums and charred berries with a crushed rock minerality, all wrapped in a tense structure. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

93 Luis Duarte 2018 Rapariga da Quinta Reserva (Alentejano). Fermented in open tanks,

this wine has a rich, smooth texture. It shows dense tannins and young blackberry fruits accom-panied by layers of acidity. The potential of this wine is obvious, needing time to open up and soften the vivacious fruit. Drink from 2023. Specialty Cellars. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

93 Neyers 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Earthy layers of tobacco, cedar and

blackberry highlight this elegant wine. With inte-grated tannins and oak, it is a seamless red that speaks softly yet with an enduring presence. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $60

93 Penfolds 2018 Bin 600 Cabernet-Shiraz (Cal-ifornia). This is a blend of 78% Napa Valley-

and Sonoma-grown Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Shiraz from Paso Robles. It is a smooth and earthy wine that offers flavors of leather, earth, iron and crushed rock cut against herbal accents. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 Pursuit 2018 Campfire Red (Napa Valley). Waxy plum and dark cherry flavors com-

bine with savory accents of tobacco, dried herb and coffee in this substantial blend. A soft midpalate reveals integrated, toasted oak and tannins, leading to a finish of enduring power. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $55

93 Sangiacomo 2018 Roberts Road Vineyard Chardonnay (Petaluma Gap). Made in a

creamy, opulent style, this wine brims in baked apple, brioche and toasted oak. With a balanced, medium-body and a lush texture, it finishes with a beautiful bite of lemon cookie. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $65

93 Silenus 2017 Merlot (Oak Knoll District). Juicy and robust in nature, with a nice layer-

ing of dried herb and baking spice, this full- bodied wine is brimming in succulent black fruit. With a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, it has a prominent tannic structure and well- integrated oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

93 Sobon Estate 2018 Cougar Hill Zinfandel (Amador County). Warm oak spices of cin-

namon, nutmeg and clove put a wonderful spin on the rich, ripe, blackberry and blueberry flavors in this full-bodied wine. It is rounded in feel and con-centrated in fruit character. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

BUYINGGUIDE


93 Valdemar 2018 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Almost all of the fruit for this wine comes

from the LeFore Vineyard. Aromas of earth, red plum, orange rind, huckleberry and spice lead to full-feeling, palate-coating flavors. It shows a lot of layering, detail, depth, finesse and freshness. The balance is impeccable. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $65

93 Waypoint 2018 Lowrey Vineyard Basalt Ledge Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

Burly in juicy waves of black and red berry, this lengthy, complex and ripe wine is intense and pow-erfully built. Sage, crushed rock and firm tannins give it an edgy grip, lending a nice complement to the power. Enjoy from 2028–2035. Cellar Selec-tion. —V.B. abv: 15.6% Price: $149

92 10,000 Hours 2018 Red Blend (Red Moun-tain). Plum, black currant and barrel spice

aromas are followed by broad dark fruit and spice flavors that show plenty of concentration and inten-sity. It brings a real sense a depth from start to fin-ish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

92 Alma Rosa 2018 El Jabali Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Fresh aromas of soft white peach,

citrus pith and chalk meet with a toasty brioche tone on the expressive nose of this bottling. There’s a firm, chalky texture to the sip, where nectarine, buttercream and fresh lemon-zest flavors surround the nutty core and lingering acidity. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

92 Bluebird Hill 2019 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). This bright and lively wine is classy

in every way—a Chardonnay that lifts the palate, sharpens food flavors and threatens to become the life of the party. Tree fruits and barrel toast are in play, with a highlight of Meyer lemon. The juicy and fresh finish keeps the flavors front and center. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $32

92 Brashley 2018 Hacienda Sequoia Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This full-

bodied wine is cedary and spicy in aroma. It is sturdy in texture and nicely packed with black cherry and black olive flavors. There is also a slight grip to the appetizing mouthfeel, making this a delight to drink. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $65

92 Diora 2018 La Grande Lumière San Bernabe Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Mon-

terey). Rich aromas of buttercream, marshmallow and roasted apple are voluptuous on the nose of this bottling. The palate is enlivened by strong lemon-peel acidity, then leads into apricot, apple and honey suckle flavors, proving more in balance than suggested by the rounded nose. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Diora 2018 La Grande Majesté San Bernabe Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Mon-

terey). Quite deep and rich in all aspects, this bot-tling from a hillside block of the Dijon clone 115 shows black cherry, mace, star anise and clove on the suave nose. It’s a meaty Pinot Noir on the palate, showing both viscosity and grippy tannins while delivering powerful fruit flavors and a caramelized, vanilla-kissed finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Bern-kasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Ries-

ling Spätlese (Mosel). Tangerine and lemon are hon-eyed and plump on the palate of this rich white. It’s a juicy, decadently fruity sip marked by sun-kissed sweetness and fresh, vital acidity. While particu-larly enjoyable young, it should hold well through 2030. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $30

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92 Greek Wine Cellars 2019 Flowers Assyrtiko (Santorini). The nose on this Assyrtiko is

open and generous, with scents of white flowers, lemon and herbs prevailing. It has a complex and savory character balanced by a touch of ripe white fruit. Nestor Imports. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $27

92 Kendall-Jackson 2019 Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay (California). Concentrated and

creamy but not overly showy, this wine is balanced, restrained and layered. It meshes an apple-tart fla-vor with subtle vanilla and nutmeg nuances while underlying acidity achieves excellent balance. Edi-tors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

92 LangeTwins 2018 Diablo Vineyard Petite Sirah (Clarksburg). Beautifully ripe and

darkly fruity, this massively concentrated and full-bodied wine coats the palate with blueberries, blackberries and dark chocolate while velvety tan-nins ease the texture. Tempting now, it’s best to enjoy this after 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $32

92 LangeTwins 2017 Jahant Woods 02 Vineyard Teroldego (Jahant). A superdark color and

rich black-fig and blackberry aromas carry the nose. Broad, ripe blackberry and blueberry flavors are blanketed by light tannins that help balance out the jammy richness. It’s a big, fun, enjoyable wine. Edi-tors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $32

92 Neyers 2017 AME Neyers Ranch Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

This wine is savory and supple in well-integrated tannins. Black fruit, graphite and a robust mouth-feel make it powerful and complex, leading to a finish of baking spice that persists. This needs time in the cellar; enjoy from 2027–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $110

92 Neyers 2017 Neyers Ranch Estate Grown Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Earthy, tan-

nic and young, this wine brims in black fruit, cedar and tobacco that are accented by black o live and crushed rock. With substantial midpalate weight, it takes time to integrate, finding a cohesive conclu-sion on the long finish. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $75

92 Opaque 2018 Malbec (Paso Robles). Suave aromas of black cherry, creamy caramel,

vanilla and dark red flowers converge on the nose of this bottling. Thick yet elegant tannins frame the sip, where Morello cherry, baked boysenberry and baking spice flavors make for a satisfyingly rich expression. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

92 Quinta das Carvalhas 2016 Late Bottled Vintage Port. This wine is rich and dense

in flavors of chocolate and ripe black fruit. It has the bold tannins to match the concentration of the fruits, bolstered by a fresh touch of acidity. Drink now. Vinofiamma. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $20

92 Rocky Pond 2017 La Domestique Reserve Double D Vineyard (Columbia Valley). Merlot

comprises over three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Appealing aromas of dried herbs, cherry and raspberry lead to a zippy currant flavor that fleshes out over time. The acidity is tart and bright, lifting it all up. Best after 2023. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

BUYINGGUIDE


92 San Simeon 2017 Stormwatch Estate Reserve (Paso Robles). Deep aromas of blackberry,

cherry, baking spice and toasty wood show on the nose of this blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec, 16% Petit Verdot, 12% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc. Lush fruit flavors meet with toasty oak spice, offering a very satisfying, hearty red wine experience. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

92 Sarah’s Vineyard 2018 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Clara Valley). This bottling expertly

captures both the warm sunshine of the southern Santa Clara Valley and the maritime influence of the nearby ocean. Aromas of peach, daffodil and buttercream are sprinkled with sea salt on the nose, while the palate packs in flavors of lemon zest, coconut flake and salted butter. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $36

92 Sobon Estate 2018 Rocky Top Zinfandel (Amador County). This full-bodied and

plushly textured wine starts with wild berry and underbrush aromas followed by ripe blackberry and black-plum flavors. Its concentration and smoothness combine for great sipping. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

92 Sobon Estate 2018 Zinfandel (Fiddletown). Hints of black pepper and woodsmoke on

the nose lead to ripe plum and peppered-meat fla-vors that are rich enough to sink your teeth into. This full-bodied, lightly tannic wine offers complex-ity and power. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $22

92 Square Peg 2017 Riddle Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Earthy and silky, this

memorable wine brims in tones of cardamom, black tea and tangy red fruit. The spice accents continue through a lengthy, complex finish, leaving this with a nuanced, elegant feel. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $65

92 Terra d’Oro 2018 Petite Sirah (Amador County). This inky-colored, massively struc-

tured wine fortunately has ample ripe, almost jammy, black-fruit flavors to fill out its richly tannic frame. Blackberry, dark chocolate and blueberry syrup notes soften the texture and linger on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

92 Wine & Soul 2017 Pintas Character (Douro). Grapes trodden by foot in open lagars give

generous tannins as well as a dense texture. The wine is ripe in feel, with impressive flavors of lico-rice and black fruits. Everything is still structured and needs to age. Drink from 2023. Wnebow. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $37

92 Wine Art Estate 2019 Pink Bang Rosé (Drama). Minerally but mouthwatering,

with touches of strawberry and spice, this pour is both fun and elegant. It has a delicious balance between bright acidity and juicy fruit, with a linger-ing salty, seashell finish. R&R Selections LLC. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $36

92 Wine Art Estate 2019 Plano Assyrtiko (Drama). Citrus, graphite and crushed herbs

start off this mouthwatering Assyrtiko from Drama. On the palate, it’s clean and fresh, with another wave of smoke on the finish. R&R Selections LLC. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

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91 Avancia 2019 Old Vines Godello (Valdeorras). Fresh and pure aromas of minerals, apple

and white stone fruits precede a round palate that’s clean as a whistle, with medium-level acidity. Apple flavors dominate, with notes of green herbs and a touch of skins-based bitterness backing it up. Light apple and pear notes are detectable on a minerally finish. Drink through 2022. Jorge Ordóñez Selec-tions. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $34

91 Be Human 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum-bia Valley). This wine is unmistakably Cab-

ernet, with its aromas of black currant, spice and dark fruit. The palate brings seriousness uncom-mon to see at a wine at this price, rich through the middle with plenty of structure to back it up. A light medicinal streak runs in the background. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

91 Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Picpoul (Yakima Valley). Aromas of whole lemon and

lemon oil are followed by a rounded palate and quite puckering fruit flavors. There’s a big kick of acidity that delights. Pair it with lemon risotto and prawns. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 11.7% Price: $25

91 Carol Shelton 2019 Coquille Blanc (Paso Robles). Aromas of peach, honey cake and

Key lime pie make for a ripe entry to the nose of this blend of white Rhône grapes. There’s a viscous feel to the sip, where flavors of roasted orange, lemon tonic and a bit of peach arise. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

91 Cartograph 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Made from grapes grown at the

Carto graph estate as well as Starscape Vineyard, this wine is thick and generous on the palate. Tea, clove and oak accent a core of crisp cherry and rasp-berry before finishing on a rich vanilla note. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $48

91 Chasing Rain 2018 Merlot (Red Mountain). This wine is a lot of what there is to love

about Washington Merlot. It offers an opulent mouthful of ripe fruit flavors, with plenty of struc-ture to back it all up. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91 Château de Fieuzal 2018 L’Abeille de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan). With a dominance of

Merlot, this second wine of Château de Fieuzal is rich while keeping a good sense of proportion and accessibility. Soft tannins give shape and set off the blackberry fruits. Drink from 2023. The Wine Trust. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $41

91 Complicated 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). Juicy aromas of raspberry sorbet,

plum, mace and tarragon are fresh and zesty on the nose of this bottling. The palate is full of pleasant herbal tones, from fennel pollen to licorice, and also offers black raspberry and potpourri flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

91 Cuvage 2016 Rosé Brut Metodo Classico (Neb-biolo d’Alba). This delicately hued salmon-

colored sparkler offers enticing aromas of red berry, vanilla and Gala apple. Reflecting the nose, the savory, creamy palate offers brioche, red cherry and pastry cream alongside a lively perlage and bright acidity. Mack & Schuhle Inc. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

BUYINGGUIDE


91 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Amber Rkatsiteli (Finger Lakes). This rare Georgian variety is

a hallmark for the winery, which has vines dating back to the early 1980s. The wine sees extended skin contact and is aged in a mix of neutral barrel, amphora and clayver. Incredibly floral on the nose, it dazzles in a bevy of milky white flowers, peppery white spice and peach. The medium-bodied palate follows suit, displaying an alluring mix of tart stone fruit, flowers and spice. There’s a pleasing, textural grip to it all, akin to the delicate tannins of oolong tea. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $40

91 Ferrari NV Brut (Trento). Aromas of white spring flower, white orchard fruit and a whiff

of brioche lead the way. On the crisp palate, an ele-gant perlage accompanies creamy yellow apple, pear and lemon drop. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Ferrari 2015 Perlé Brut (Trento). Aromas of yellow apple, hazelnut and brioche come to

the forefront. These tones follow on to the palate alongside a lemon zest flavor set against racy acidity and a lively perlage. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Headturner 2018 The Nerve Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Red Mountain). This is an appropri-

ately named, attention-getting wine. The aromas draw you into the glass with notes of dried herbs, plum and black currant. The flavors are fresh and lively, with a lightly grainy feel to the tannins and pleasing depth of flavor. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

91 Jax 2019 Y3 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Fermented in concrete tank and aged in neu-

tral oak, this steely wine is delicately layered in lemon and papaya. It shows very good substance and style on the lengthy finish. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

91 Justin 2017 Trilateral (Paso Robles). Roasted cherry and dried red-flower aromas meet

with wet rocks, black pepper and turned soil on the nose of this blend of 72% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 8% Mourvèdre. The palate is loaded with roasted and smoked flavors, from blistered cherry to hick-ory, with a clay-like minerality lifting it up. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $55

91 Kaiken 2018 Ultra Malbec (Mendoza). Baked blackberry and plum aromas include notes

of coffee and raisin on the nose. Spiky acidity lends texture to the medium-depth palate, while this tastes of blackberry and cassis before transitioning to chocolate and toast on the finish. Drink through 2024. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

91 Landmark 2018 Overlook Chardonnay ( Sonoma County). Oaky, rich and layered, this lik-

able white offers apple, peach, pear and a whirl of butter scotch, with the oak adding a toasted note. Softly textured and rounded on the palate, it brings complexity within a full-bodied style. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $27

91 LangeTwins 2017 River Ranch Vineyard Petit Verdot (Jahant). Soothing, rich blackberry

and blueberry flavors nicely fill out the moderately tannic texture of this full-bodied, dark-fruited wine. Good concentration and deep black-fruit fla-vors are shaped by a firm, velvety mouthfeel. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $32

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91 Maison Bleue 2018 Frontière Funk Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas

immediately place this wine in the Rocks District, with notes of moist earth, black pepper, peat and firepit, along with orange rind. Soft, plush fruit and savory flavors follow, bringing restraint and sophis-tication alongside a lightly creamy feel. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $75

91 Meadowlark 2013 Los Olivos Red Blend (Santa Barbara County). Aromas of dark cherry and

cedar meet with soy, purple flowers, incense and pepper on the dynamic nose of this aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Syrah. A tight texture and bright acidity carries the palate, where crisp yet savory fruit and spice flavors align. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Oak Farm 2019 Estate Grown Fiano (Lodi). Light floral and melon aromas lead to a rich

palate of ripe apple, pear and pecan flavors that ride an ultrasmooth texture. This medium-bodied wine has a broad mouthfeel and generous flavors that lin-ger into the finish. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $26

91 Rocky Pond 2017 Reserve Double D Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This

wine comes from a newer site in the Rocky Reach region, with the grapes grown on granite bedrock soils—a rarity for Washington. It has classic Caber-net aromas of cherry, crushed herbs, currant, cedar and olive. The palate is medium-plus in feel, soft, reserved and understated. Bright acidity provides support. Give it some additional time in the cellar. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $59

91 Saracina 2018 Skid Row Malbec (Mendocino County). Deep and generous black-cherry

flavors are wrapped in silky tannins in this nicely concentrated and polished wine. It boasts a sooth-ing mouthfeel, with touches of clove and cardamom that add to its appeal. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

91 Tassajara 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey). There’s a touch of game on the nose of this afford-

able and complex bottling, which also shows aro-mas of smoked berry, clove and garam masala. Roasted strawberry and red plum meet with game, orange rind, herbs and cracked pepper on the well- seasoned palate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

91 Wapisa 2018 Malbec (Río Negro Valley). Earthy black fruit aromas include notes of

sun-dried prune and cinnamon. This Patagonian Malbec is ripe and full but popping with cool- climate acidity. Blackberry and peppercorn flavors finish smooth but firm enough to avoid any sem-blance of softness. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

91 Wine & Soul 2018 Manoella (Douro). From an old vineyard in the Pinhão Valley, this

wine is beautifully rich in sumptuous tannins and black fruits. It has dense berry flavors that are shot through with bright acidity and a bold structure that will allow it to age. Drink from 2023. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $22

90 A to Z 2019 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This fruit-powered, gulpable wine is loaded with

a pear flavor. The midpalate fills out further with yellow apple fruit, and the lightly creamy finish satisfies. It’s a fine everyday white wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

BUYINGGUIDE


90 Akrasia 2015 Line of Fire Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Soft and leathery

on the palate, this understated wine is earthy and tangy in currant and cranberry. Firm tannins pro-vide a subtle structure, with notes of cedar, pencil and clove lending balance. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $80

90 Anko 2018 Flor de Cardón Malbec (Salta). Aromas of dried earth, baking spice,

wild berry and smoky plum are expansive on the nose, while it feels medium in weight on the pal-ate. Baked black plum, oak spice and tomato fla-vors bring all the elements of high-altitude grapes into play. The finish is tight and dry, with berry flavors aided by oak spice and pepper. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

90 Battuello 2018 Valdiguié (St. Helena). This producer has been growing Valdiguié since

the 1920s. This red is immensely appealing and approachable. Showing just a tiny bit of underlying grip, it stays lively and focused, with a hint of bak-ing spice and vanilla. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

90 Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Grenache Blanc (Yakima Valley). Coming from one

of the state’s top vineyards, the nose of this wine offers green apple, lemon zest and wet rock leading to a tart, puckering and sleek lemon twist flavor. It’s a thoroughly delicious, high-acid wine. Pair it with scallop ceviche with kiwi and lime. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 12.3% Price: $25

90 Chasing Rain 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Red Mountain Cabernet at this

price? Yes, please. Blackberry, dried herb and spice lead to palate-coating fruit flavors with plenty of structure. It shows impressive balance. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Château Magnol 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). From the southern sector of Haut-

Médoc, this wine is well-structured in fine tannins and attractive black-currant fruit. The heft and spicy character from the wood promise aging. Drink from 2023. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

90 Colección Quinquela 2018 Motivo de Puerto Single Vineyard Red Blend (Famatina Val-

ley). A darkly concentrated color and aromas of black fruits, road tar and lemony oak lead to a full palate with moderate acidity. Spicy, chocolaty oak notes add depth to berry flavors, while this blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon finishes level and steady. EcoValley. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite and Nicolas Catena 2018 Aruma Malbec (Men-

doza). Floral aromas of violets and rose petals blend with berry fruits and mild grassy notes in this Mal-bec. It’s soft in feel, with flavors of blueberry, black-berry and cassis that lead to a smooth finish. Taub Family Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

90 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Dry Ries-ling (Mosel). Fully dry but loaded with juicy

mango and guava flavors, this is an easy-drinking white likely to please broadly. Medium in weight and plump yet vibrant and zesty, it’s particularly delightful young, but should hold through 2023. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $17

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90 Early Mountain 2017 Quaker Run Vineyards Tannat (Virginia). Plum and black currant

aromas are dusted with white pepper and cedar on a coy nose. The palate is sultry and lush, loaded with alluring dark-fruit flavors draped in leather and tobacco. The caressing tannins provide a solid structure but show no signs of aggression, and the acidity is steady and serious. The finish is both end-less and addictive. —F.A. abv: 15.3% Price: $45

90 Ferrari NV Rosé Brut Metodo Classico (Trento). Aromas of bread crust, rose and

red berry lift out of the glass. Reflecting the nose, the racy palate offers pomegranate, sour cherry, blood orange and a hint of hazelnut alongside a lively perlage. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Frescobaldi 2017 Nipozzano Riserva (Chianti Rufina). Combining structure and finesse,

this has subtle but intriguing aromas of camphor, rose and sunbaked earth. On the taut, juicy pal-ate, fine-grained tannins accompany dried cherry, orange zest and star anise before a coffee-bean fin-ish. Drink through 2025. Shaw-Ross International Importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

90 Herdade do Esporão 2019 Esporão Reserva (Alentejo). This young and fruity wine is

bursting with energy and a ripe, creamy apple fla-vor. A light touch of wood lends a smooth texture and some short-term aging possibilities. Drink from 2022. Now Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner White Wine (Snake River Valley). This is mostly Riesling

(83%), with the rest Muscat Blanc and Roussanne. Aromas of lychee, pink grapefruit rind and white flowers jump from the glass. Dry, sleek and focused lemon and iced tea flavors follow, hanging around on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $16

90 Iron Oaks 2019 Flipside White (California). A lemon peel aroma meets with pithy Asian

pear and jicama on the nose of this blend of Char-donnay, Pinot Gris and Viognier. Light grapefruit, green pear and honeysuckle flavors unfold on the clean and fresh palate. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

90 J. Wilkes 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles Highlands District). Serious aromas

of black plum, leather, dried marjoram and cedar oil lead into a hearty palate, loaded with roasted plum, smoked meat, black olive and pine resin. Black pep-per spice carries the finish. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

90 La Braccesca 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano. Aromas of red berry, blue flower

and spice lead the nose. Savory and linear, the taut palate offers ripe plum, blackberry and star anise before finishing on a note of grilled sage. Drink through 2025. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 LangeTwins 2018 Redtail Vineyard Nero d’Avola (Jahant). Aspects of flint and iron

inflect the aromas and flavors of this full-bodied, smoky and savory wine. Hardly a fruit-bomb, the medium-bodied palate has a nervy, slightly tannic texture and an adventurous set of flavors. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $32

BUYINGGUIDE


90 Maddalena 2018 Estate Reserve Chardon-nay (Monterey). Aromas of Meyer lemon,

butter, daffodil, cream and a hint of steely mineral-ity show on the nose of this bottling. There is solid tension on the palate, where roasted lemon, peach and apple flavors meet with a hint of smoke. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $20

90 Marqués de Riscal 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Plum, prune and leather aromas set up a

lively palate with vibrant acidity. Plum, currant, vanilla and tobacco flavors form a classic Rioja mix, while vanilla, brown sugar and chocolate hints soften the finish. Shaw-Ross International Import-ers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

90 Oak Farm 2019 Estate Grown Primitivo (Lodi). Mint and pine flavors mingle with

robust blackberries and raspberries in this full-bodied, lightly tannic wine as it spreads generously across the palate. Very good balance combined with tasty concentration make it extra enjoyable. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Paul Dolan 2019 Made with Organic Grapes Zinfandel (Mendocino County). Pure, deli-

cious fruit aromas and flavors practically light up this well-balanced, easy-drinking wine. It shows light tannins and a smooth texture that’s nicely tangy, too. A lingering fresh berry character marks the close. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

90 Ramón Bilbao 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Aro-mas of plum and berry blend with a hint of

leather in this red. Harmonious flavors of raspberry, currant and plum are aided by barrel-driven hints of vanilla and brown sugar, while a hearty finish offers good drive. Zamora Company USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

90 Rickshaw 2018 Red Blend (Washington). This is a blend of 30% Malbec, 28% Mer-

lot, 17% Sangiovese, 14% Cabernet Franc and 11% Syrah. The aromas pop in notes of raspberry, blue-berry and spice. The palate shows pleasing intensity and sophistication. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

90 Sobon Estate 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This delicious and inviting

wine is full in feel yet well balanced. Rich, fresh red- and black-cherry flavors are lightly spiced with mint, vanilla and cinnamon as velvety tannins soothe the palate. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $18

90 The Soldier 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The aromas are fruit-

forward in notes of plum and black currant accented by baking spice. The flavors are ripe and luscious. Pleasing acidity ties it all together. —S.S. abv: 14.47% Price: $22

90 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2019 White Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For this

wine, free run juice is quickly pressed, leaving a Pinot Noir with no hint of color. The flavors are rich in peach and citrus, with a strong component of skin tannins. The texture and length point to a wine with considerable richness. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

WINEMAG.COM | 19

89 A to Z 2017 The Essence of Oregon Pinot Noir (Oregon). Sourced from vineyards through-

out the state, this full-bodied, fruity wine shows plenty of mixed berry goodness. A touch of choco-late adorns the finish, with seems to hit the brakes and briefly hold there before disappearing. Drink through 2022. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

89 One Stone 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Dried berries, leather, red flowers,

wood shavings and licorice show on the nose of this bottling. It lands very cleanly on the palate, offering baked blackberry, violet and milk chocolate dusted with oregano, marjoram and pine, as acid pops on the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

88 Greg Norman Estates 2018 Shiraz-Cabernet (Limestone Coast). Upfront berry fruit aro-

mas are backed by licorice, terra cotta and spice in this wine. Bright acidity lifts the fruit on the pal-ate, with lighly spicy tannins framing it all. This is a great weeknight red. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

88 Temecula Hills 2016 Estate Tempranillo (California). From a vineyard located 3,000

feet above the Temecula Valley, this bottling is very extracted and rich. It offers aromas of black plum, raisin and gingerbread. The palate shows espresso and gingersnap flavors atop a rich fig marmalade core. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $34

88 Viña Eguía 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Ripe berry and raisin aromas lead to a slightly syrupy

palate. Flavors of prune and raisin are supported by chocolaty oak on the palate. This is a straightfor-ward and ripe but enjoyable Rioja. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

BEST BUYS

92 Greek Wine Cellars 2018 Flowers Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Aromas of tomato, olive, dried

herbs and cherry start this elegant red. On the pal-ate, smoke, savory meats and fresh cherry flavors are both complex and easy to love. Nestor Imports. Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

BEST BUYS

92 L’Ecole No. 41 2019 Semillon (Columbia Val-ley). L’Ecole has been carrying the banner

for this variety in Washington for decades. This wine has everything there is to love about the vari-ety, with textural richness and flavor intensity along with plenty of acidity to back it up. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

91 Bogle 2018 Petite Sirah (California). Delicious blackberry, blueberry and dark-chocolate fla-

vors are wrapped in thick but soft tannins. This is a full-bodied wine, with a mouthcoating texture. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

91 D’Arenberg 2017 The Stump Jump Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre (McLaren Vale). Ripe, fleshy

blueberries and raspberries drive this red blend without too much oak getting in the way. There’s an underbelly of flowers, cinnamon and peppery spice. The tannins are typically muscular, the fruit is juicy, silky and fresh. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

BUYINGGUIDE


BEST BUYS

91 Goose Ridge 2018 g3 Estate Grown Family Owned Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val-

ley). A black currant aroma is at the fore of this wine, followed by notes of spice and herb. There is a whole lot of depth and intensity to the dark fruit flavors. It’s absolutely chock-full of fruit and struc-ture. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $15

90 Bieler Family 2018 Born To Run Cabernet Sauvignon (America). A ripe plum aroma is

joined by the slightest hint of creosote on the nose. The palate echoes the nose, adding blueberry and cassis notes joined by dried tobacco and allspice. There is a firm grip of tannins that holds on tight but is eventually taken over by a wash of mouthwatering acidity on the plummy finish. Best Buy. —F.A. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

90 DFJ Vinhos 2018 Portada Reserva (Lisboa). This lightly wood-aged wine offers a mix of

spice and ripe black fruits. The tannins are properly softened while still giving the fruitiness shape and structure. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

BEST BUYS

90 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Chardonnay (Fin-ger Lakes). Bright, crisp aromas of peach,

apple and yellow blossoms grace the nose of this deftly balanced Chardonnay. About half sees time in French oak, which adds a slightly creamy texture and a bit of spice to the ripe orchard fruit flavors on the palate. The fruit lingers pleasantly on the close. Best Buy. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $15

90 Dr. Loosen 2019 Dr. L Dry Riesling (Mosel). Pristine, fragrant white peach and chalky

mineral tones collide in this dry, fresh-fruited Ries-ling. Steely on the finish, it’s a remarkable value for a sophisticated yet easy-drinking wine that’s likely to please many. Best enjoyed young. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $12

90 Greek Wine Cellars 2018 Kouros Agiorgitiko (Nemea). This wine offers an elegant nose

of dried tomato, olive and dark chocolate. The pal-ate brings flavors of black tea, tomato, olive, red berry and spice. This is a stately wine to drink now through 2024. Nestor Imports. Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

BEST BUYS

90 Highlands 41 2019 Black Granite (Paso Robles). Big, booming aromas of black

cherry, vanilla, caramel, cappuccino and dark soil show on the nose of this ripe, powerful blend. Black cherry and blackberry jam are rich on the palate but also comforting. This is sure to satisfy those seeking robust flavors. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

90 J. Lohr 2019 Riverstone Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco). Opulent aromas of ripe pear, garde-

nia, apple and coconut show on the nose of this bot-tling. It’s racy with acidity on the sip, where a tart lemon flavor leads into apple blossom, poached pear and pineapple, with a slight butter tone on the fin-ish. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $14

90 La Selva 2019 Privo Organic Red (Toscana). A blend of organically grown Sangiovese

and Alicante, this offers aromas of red-skinned berry, underbrush and white pepper. Made with-out added sulfites, the juicy, fresh palate features raspberry, cinnamon and clove alongside polished tannins and bright acidity. Enjoy through 2025. The Jack Edwards Collection. Best Buy.—K.O. abv: 14% Price: $15

WINEMAG.COM | 21

BEST BUYS

90 LangeTwins 2019 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Clarksburg). Fresh pear and apple flavors

are accented by subtle bread dough and baking-spice nuances in this medium- to full-bodied wine. It shows a good balance between ripeness and mild acidity for a fresh but satisfying impression. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $15

90 Villa Wolf 2019 Gewürztraminer (Pfalz). Classic notes of lychee, white tea and hon-

eysuckle extend from nose to finish in this gor-geously perfumed, fruity white. Just a lip-smacking shade off dry, it’s a juicy, exuberantly fresh sip that’s perfect as an aperitif or accompaniment to delicate spiced foods. It’s a fantastic bang-for-your-buck find that’s best enjoyed young. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $12

90 William Gunn NV The Boss A Big Red Blend (El Dorado). Subtle gamy and leathery fla-

vors are bolstered by a core of ripe black-cherry fla-vors in this full-bodied, moderately tannic wine. A blended of Mourvèdre, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, it has very good concentration and earthy complex-ity. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

BEST BUYS

89 Fox Run 2019 Doyle Family Chardonnay (Seneca Lake). Bright aromas of orange

blossom and lily grace the nose of this Chardonnay that’s blended with a tiny amount of Traminette. The palate is ripe and juicy in flavors of pineapple and peach, cinched up by a pleasing textural grip and bright acidity. This is a solid buy for those look-ing for a fruity yet balanced medium-bodied white. Best Buy. —A.P. abv: 12.9% Price: $13

89 Kirkland Signature 2016 Reserva (Rioja). This value-priced winner is about as good

and honest as everyday Rioja gets. Earthy cherry and plum aromas are inviting, while this earns points for fullness, balance and appealing flavors of spiced cherry and plum. Drink up. Quintessential Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $7

89 Raimund Prüm 2019 Essence Riesling (Mosel). Bold, sun-kissed aromas of yel-

low peach and pineapple drive the palate of this medium-dry Riesling. It’s a light-bodied and zesty but intensely fruity sip packed with pristine tanger-ine and lime flavors. The finish is racy and edged by a lingering stony minerality. Taub Family Selec-tions. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $14

BEST BUYS

89 St. Urbans-Hof 2019 Nik Weis Urban Ries-ling (Mosel). Notes of pine frond and mint

lend a cooling, vital freshness to this feather-light Riesling. Off dry in style, it’s a pristine, lemony sip that finishes long on a delicately earthen tone. Best now–2023. HB Wine Merchants. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $13

88 Marqués de Riscal 2017 Arienzo Crianza (Rioja). Cherry, plum, leather and tobacco

aromas are fairly deep and concentrated on the nose. A hefty palate brings flavors of prune, black plum and green herbs. A chocolate note arises on the finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

87 Barefoot Bubbly NV Brut Cuvée (California). Light and attractive lemon-cream and crisp

apple flavors fill out this medium-bodied, dry and rather soft-textured wine that is smooth and easy on the palate. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 10.5% Price: $10

BUYINGGUIDE


BEST BUYS

87 CK Mondavi and Family 2017 Merlot (Califor-nia). Fresh and fruity, this nicely ripe wine

is medium bodied and tastes clean and complete. Plenty of ripe plum and black-cherry notes give it a delicious flavor. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $7

86 Barefoot Bubbly NV Extra Dry (California). A hint of sweetness rounds the edges of this

lightly fruity and floral wine. A soft effervescence carries fresh apple and subtle pistachio flavors. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 10.5% Price: $10

86 CK Mondavi and Family 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Ample cherry fla-

vors are shaded by light smoke and herb notes. The medium-bodied palate is slightly tannic, with savory qualities typical of the grape. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $7

SPIRITS

98 Bushmills The Rare Casks 28 Years Limited Release No. 01 Cognac Cask Irish Whiskey

(Ireland; Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). This is a single malt distilled in 1992, matured in Bourbon and Sherry casks, and finished in Cognac casks. It’s a delicious, nuanced dram, with vanilla and fresh-cut red apple on nose and palate and a superlight, almost effervescent texture. A splash of water teases out lemon mousse and a puff of smoke on the exhale.abv: 46.7% Price: $500

94 The Busker Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Disaronno International, Somerset, NJ). Billed as a tri-

ple cask whiskey, the liquid was finished in barrels that previously held Sherry, Bourbon and Marsala. The result is a cinnamon and faint floral aroma, and a palate that sizzles with baking spice. It eventu-ally mellows into flavors of vanilla wafer, cocoa and dried fig, finishing with gingery zing. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $25

92 Slane Triple Casked Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). A particu-

larly full-bodied whiskey, look for candied orange and Sherried raisin aromas, leading into a fruit-cake-like palate. It is warm and sticky, with flavors of maple, dried date and baking spice that lead into the finish. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $30

cinnamon. A lively palate pops with acidity before settling, while this tastes of earthy berry fruits, prune and salt. Dry tannins keep this focused and on path through the finish. For a value-priced Malbec, this shows complexity and a higher-than-normal level of quality. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

91 Monteviejo 2018 Festivo Malbec (Uco Valley). Muscular but composed black fruit aromas

stop short of being overripe. A full yet balanced pal-ate is, much like the nose on this Malbec, big but in shape. Blackberry, black plum and prune flavors are ripe and appealing, while a sturdy finish doesn’t change the script. Taub Family Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $14

91 Puro Uno 2011 Mega Malbec (Mendoza). Baked blackberry, dark plum, chocolate and raisiny

aromas open this heavyweight holdover from 2011. Sunbaked flavors of blackberry, black currant, fig and chocolate finish full and muscular, with sticky richness that no amount of time will tame. Drink through 2026. Puro Uno Imports. —M.S. abv: 15.3% Price: $75

91 Septima 2018 Reserva Obra Malbec (Men-doza). Blackberry aromas come with a dust-

ing of baking spice as well as touches of raisin and heat. A flush palate shows smooth tannins and good core acidity. Blackberry, black plum, earthy spice and salty flavors finish warm, steady and satisfying. Drink through 2025. Raventos Codorniu. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

91 Wapisa 2018 Malbec (Río Negro Valley). For full review see page 15.

abv: 13.5% Price: $24

90 Anko 2018 Flor de Cardón Malbec (Salta). For full review see page 16.

abv: 13.9% Price: $20

90 Domaine Bousquet 2018 Gran Made with Organic Grapes Malbec (Uco Valley). Ini-

tially this Malbec smells reduced and rubbery, like black olive and pavement mixed with blackberry and prune. A smacking palate softens with time and airing to show buttery thickness, while this tastes of ripe black fruits with a hint of raisin. A chunky, jammy finish conveys all of the wine’s 15% abv. WISD LLC. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $25

90 Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite and Nicolas Catena 2018 Aruma Malbec (Men-

doza). For full review see page 16. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

90 Puro Uno 2011 Gran Reserva Malbec (Men-doza). Rich, mature aromas of chocolate,

caramel, baking spice, blackberry and cassis feed a clamping palate with wiry tartaric acidity. At 15.5% abv, this is an old-school more-is-more Malbec that tastes of baked plum, blackberry, vanilla and choco-

WINEMAG.COM | 23

late. Staunch acidity stands out on a thick finish dominated by blackened toast and coffee flavors. Drink now. Puro Uno Imports. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $100

90 Salentein 2018 Reserve Malbec (Uco Val-ley). Spicy blackberry, cola and cool earth

aromas set up a hefty palate with midlevel acidity and rubbing tannins. Ripe, lightly baked blackberry and dark plum flavors finish steady on a full and jammy finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

89 Kaiken 2018 Selección Especial Malbec (Mendoza). Gritty blackberry aromas are

peppery and spicy, while lively acidity drives a full and piercing palate. Spicy plum and blackberry fla-vors show a hint of backside prune, while this tastes of oak spice, pepper and black fruits on a solid fin-ish. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

89 Zolo 2019 Estate Grown and Bottled Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Berry and plum aromas are

generous, jammy and lightly spiced and bring a wild animal note into play. A full and flush mouthfeel supports spicy plum, currant and raspberry flavors. On the finish, dry spice notes and a composed tex-ture are positives. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $12

88 Black Cabra 2019 Malbec (Mendoza). Blue-berry and cool herbal aromas set up a flush

palate balanced by bright acidity. Dark plum and spicy berry flavors are standard but tasty and well presented. A finish with herbal and peppery spice notes closes out this solid Malbec. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $10

88 Ceibo 2019 Estate Bottled Sustainably Farmed Malbec (Mendoza). Foxy wild berry

aromas are jumpy in front of a juicy mouthfeel that’s a bit hot and rough. Mixed black fruit flavors fea-ture a peppery, slightly charred backing. Said pep-pery spice drives an edgy finish. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $10

88 Profesión 2018 Sommelier Malbec (Uco Val-ley). Blackberry and black plum aromas

are a touch fiery and gritty in front of a full-bodied palate with chunky weight and moderate acidity. Shallow but bold dark berry and black plum flavors finish short but solid. Consortium & Spirits LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

88 Terrazas de Los Andes 2017 Parcel N°1E El Espinillo Malbec (Gualtallary). Earthy berry

and plum aromas lack expression regardless of how much air this gets. Saucy acidity sits atop the pal-ate, which tastes of herbal tomato, red plum, cur-rant and raw oak. Tomatoey acidity returns on a finish that’s slightly green as well as raisiny tasting. Something isn’t quite clicking with this high-end

Malbec from Gualtallary in Tupungato. Moët Hen-nessy USA. —M.S. abv: 12.9% Price: $100

87 Domaine Bousquet 2019 Made with Organic Grapes Malbec (Tupungato). Wiry berry and

plum aromas are punchy and raw, while this feels full but tough. Skimmed berry flavors are backed by dry tannins that leave a scratchy feeling on the finish of this aggressive Malbec. WISD LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

87 Manos Negras 2019 Atrevida Malbec (Men-doza). Dark-berry aromas are nonspecific

and slightly rustic and stewed. A tight palate is cemented by crisp acidity and dry tannins. Saucy black plum and berry flavors don’t evolve on a tan-nic finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Tacho 2018 Reserva Hand-Picked Estate Vineyards Malbec (Uco Valley). Leafy berry

aromas are mulchy and earthy at first, then gritty like asphalt. A plump palate is on the soft and flat side, with low to medium acidity. Blackberry and blueberry flavors slip away on a full and chunky fin-ish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $16

87 Zolo 2019 Gaucho Select Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown and Bottled Malbec (Mendoza).

Spicy berry aromas are a touch jammy and herbal, with notes of animal and wild brush. A pulpy mouthfeel is on the soft side, while this tastes of dark plum and berry fruits prior to a solid but plod-ding finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $15

86 Alta Vista 2019 Vive Malbec (Mendoza). Earthy berry aromas clean up with airing,

while this is rather lean and angular in feel. Tart plum and currant flavors finish bright and a bit salty, with crisp lasting acidity maintaining fresh-ness. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $12

86 Bodega Norton 2019 1895 Colección Malbec (Mendoza). Dusty plum and berry aromas

are generic and easygoing. A plump and jammy pal-ate is chunky and a bit scratchy, while this every-day Malbec tastes of saucy plum and berry fruits prior to a finish that leaves lighter raspberry and red plum notes. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Mi Terruño 2019 Uvas Malbec (Mendoza). Herbal, plum and berry aromas lead to a

medium-bodied palate that’s more fleshy and pulpy than defined. Grapy plum and berry flavors come with a slight herbal green hint as well as a dash of cumin. On the finish, this shows controlled rawness and burn. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Wellsley Farms 2019 Gran Seleccion Malbec (Mendoza). Leafy currant and raspberry

aromas are lightly green and floral. On the palate,

this hits with hard tannins. Herbal and red berry flavors turn spicy and peppery, while this Malbec finishes with mild green hints. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Mendoza Vineyards 2019 Malbec (Mendoza). A gritty nose smells more damp and mossy

than bright and fruity. On the palate, this Malbec feels flat, hard and dense. Berry flavors take on a minty tinge before turning raisiny, while a sim-ple finish with mild burn wraps this up. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

84 Doña Paula 2019 Los Cardos Malbec (Men-doza). Aromas of black olive, rubber, iodine

and earthy berry fruits feed into a linear and nar-row palate with sharp acidity and not much depth. Tart plum and currant flavors are salty, while this is punchy and edgy on a finish that tastes mildly green. Prestige Beverage Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

84 Skroo One 2019 Malbec (Mendoza). Dark-berry aromas come with hints of cinnamon

and hand soap. The palate is full and grabby due to gravelly tannins. Medicinal plum and currant flavors run a bit green, while dry residual tannins make for a choppy finish. California Wine Cellars Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10/1.5 L

82 Tenorio 2019 Single Vineyard Reserva Malbec (La Rioja). Stewy berry aromas are green

and grassy, while this is raw, saucy and sharp on the palate. Shallow red plum and tart berry flavors are equally green, while that dominating herbal charac-ter carries over to a finish with no richness. EcoVal-ley. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

90 Luna de Finca la Anita 2017 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Ripe plum

and blackberry aromas come with hints of tar and fresh asphalt. A snappy mouthfeel based on healthy fruit is full but not ponderous, while this tastes of ripe blackberry and cassis that yield to prune in front of a well-formed finish with no loose edges. Drink through 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

90 Mendel 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men-doza). Plum and berry aromas are mossy,

with notes of asphalt, olive and even roasted nuts. The mouthfeel on this Cabernet is big and saturated but airtight in terms of structure. Ripe plum and cassis flavors are mildly spicy, while this is sappy and broad on the finish, with a note of char from toasty oak. Drink through 2025. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

BUYINGGUIDE


89 Proemio 2018 Reserve Single Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Earthy plum

and berry aromas start out cool, damp and spicy before turning mostly to toasty blackened oak. This hits hard with mouthcoating tannins, while toasty oak dominates a flavor profile filled out by standard blackberry and cassis. Fittingly, this is tough and pulling on an intense finish where a strong oak char-acter persists. R&B Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $18

88 Doña Paula 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Luján de Cuyo). Solid plum and berry

aromas set up a palate that’s dry and a bit raw and rugged. Standard blackberry and dark plum flavors are touched up by light oak, while this Cabernet includes a note of spiced savory meat pie on a crisp finish. Prestige Beverage Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

88 Viña Cobos 2018 Felino Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). A fiery initial blast of alcohol

and spicy berry and plum fruit settles on lightly green and herbal, sort of like mild eucalyptus. A midsize-plus palate is lean in the middle, while fla-vors of currant, cherry and green herbs finish with a touch of buttery oak. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

87 DiamAndes 2018 de Uco Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Savory dark-berry aromas are

spicy. Next, this is full and firm, with grabby tan-nins. Dark plum and black currant flavors are pep-pery and lightly herbal and finish with a note of grilled meat on a fiery finish. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

86 Profesión 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Fiery berry fruit aromas include

notes of cumin and other dried spices. This Cab-ernet is rough and rowdy, with broad tannins that clamp down hard. Black fruit flavors are spicy, roasted and oaky, with chocolaty leftovers on the finish. Consortium & Spirits LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

85 Malma 2018 Finca La Papay Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Patagonia). Murky aromas of earthy

plum and dried leaf are a bit muddled. This Patago-nian Cab is edgy and choppy in feel, with raw tan-nins. Plum and berry flavors are medium ripe, while this tastes a touch stalky on a finish that feels thick and grapy. Vias Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

83 Funckenhausen 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Modest ripeness on the nose

is confirmed and amplified on a strict, punchy pal-ate. Spicy red fruit flavors of currant and sour plum show a peppery green element prior to a tight finish. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

82 Finca La Escondida 2018 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Mendoza). Skimpy red fruit aromas

open this hard and tannic Cab with little depth. Dry

flavors of plum skins and tomato are backed by a scrubbing finish. Wein Bauer Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

PINOT NOIR

88 Verum 2019 Pinot Noir (Alto Valle del Río Negro). Delicately light berry and plum

aromas are in the lead, while this Patagonian Pinot is lean and agile in body, with moderate acidity. Cherry, red plum, tomato and spice flavors finish with clarity. Overall, this is fresh and more than competent. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Bodega Chacra 2019 Barda Pinot Noir (Pata-gonia). Plummy red berry aromas include

notes of oak grain, paint and vanilla. A medium to full palate is undemanding, while plum and rasp-berry flavors are short and slightly chemical before disappearing quickly on the finish. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $30

86 Aranwa 2019 Pinot Noir (Patagonia). A pinched and gritty nose is shy on fruit aro-

mas and requires airing to freshen up. A tight palate is limited in scope and breadth, while this tastes of plum, currant and tomato. On the finish, this leaves a mild burning sensation. BuenaVida Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Salentein 2019 Portillo Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Uco Valley). Dusty red plum and cur-

rant aromas are easy to peg as Pinot Noir. A grainy-feeling palate with chewy tannins deals flavors of spiced cherry and raspberry, while this displays mild burn and a vague note of buttery oak on the finish. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

85 Padrillos 2019 Pinot Noir (Mendoza). Spicy currant and leathery aromas are a touch

green, while this feels plump but static. Herbal plum and red berry flavors finish light, spicy and slightly mulchy. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

RED BLENDS

93 Bodega Norton 2016 Gernot Langes (Luján de Cuyo). Boysenberry and blueberry aro-

mas are pure and ripe, a positive sign given that the 2016 vintage was marred by El Niño rains. An extracted palate delivers chewy tannins but also bright acidity, meaning this blend of Malbec, Caber-net Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon is in great shape. Blackberry, cassis, chocolate and baking spice fla-vors finish with commendable integration. Drink through 2025. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $105

92 Domaine Bousquet 2018 Ameri Single Vine-yard Made with Organic Grapes (Tupungato).

Initially aggressive and slightly hot aromas of black-

berry, cassis and licorice lead to a full palate that’s both creamy as well as hard-driving and prodding. Fully ripe blackberry and cassis flavors are a touch jammy in front of a finish that collapses as soon as the wine’s acidity peters out. This is 60% Malbec with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Drink through 2023. WISD LLC. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $36

92 Puro Uno 2012 The Mega Artist Series (Men-doza). This blend of Malbec, Syrah and Cab-

ernet Franc opens with raisiny black fruit aromas that reflect the warm conditions of 2012. A full palate with choppy dry tannins deals fully ripe and slightly baked black fruit flavors along with spice notes. A toasty finish with lingering spicy accents concludes this drink-now heavyweight. Puro Uno Imports. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $195

91 Algodon 2012 Pima (Mendoza). A cloudy bur-gundy color and aromas of prune, raisin and

plum set up a saturated palate that’s a bit flat in feel. Rich flavors of prune, raisin, fig and chocolate finish with the softness of a ripe and mature Malbec blend at peak or slightly past its prime. Drink now. MyWinesDirect Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

91 Bressia 2014 Conjuro (Mendoza). Ripe aro-mas of blackberry, herbs and spices open this

blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The palate is saturated but kicking, with tannic bite. Peppery blackberry and cassis flavors are slightly stalky before dissipating on a brisk finish. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $121

90 Alta Vista 2013 Alto (Mendoza). Aromas of raisin and prune lead to a dense palate

that’s rich and on the heavy side. Raisin, prune and spice cake flavors finish jammy, with chocolaty notes. This is 88% Malbec and 12% Cabernet Sau-vignon from a ripe, warm year. Drink now. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $85

90 Colección Quinquela 2018 Motivo de Puerto Single Vineyard Red Blend (Famatina Val-

ley). For full review see page 16. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Doña Paula 2018 Estate Black Edition (Luján de Cuyo). Aromas of wild brush, black olive,

rubber and wild blackberry comprise the nose. This Malbec-led blend feels lively and fresh, with black-berry, cassis and lightly toasted flavors. A steady finish offers no significant changes as it fades with ease. Prestige Beverage Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $14

89 Alpamanta 2018 Campal (Mendoza). A dark-purple color and reduced aromas of

wild berry fruits and black olive are earthy and a bit funky. A jammy palate is naturally plump but way-ward, without much tannic structure. Mixed berry flavors are jammy and wild, with a baking spice off-

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set. On the finish, this blend of Malbec with 11% Merlot and Cabernet Franc offers hints of freshly ground nutmeg and cocoa. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

89 Kaiken 2018 Terroir Series Cabernet Sauvi-gnon-Malbec-Petit Verdot (Los Chacayes).

Tight, gritty aromas of tire rubber, asphalt and lem-ony oak comprise a pointy nose. A hard and nar-row palate shows a mix of rocky tannins and choppy acidity, while dark-berry flavors play out on an alert finish. This is Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

CHARDONNAY

88 Domaine Bousquet 2019 Gran Made With Organic Grapes Chardonnay (Uco Valley).

Aromas of pear and honeydew are ripe and include a hint of vanilla. This Chardonnay feels melony, with moderate acidity. Flavors of yellow apple and melon are fine but minimal in complexity and scope, while this feels a bit heavy on the finish, which makes sense given its 15% abv. WISD LLC. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $20

87 Domaine Bousquet 2019 Cameleon Signa-ture Made with Organic Grapes Chardonnay

(Tupungato). Generic white fruit aromas of apple and pear are standard but clean. On the palate, this high-alcohol Chardonnay (15% abv) is round and creamy. Oaky melon and apple flavors are a touch flabby through the finish. WISD LLC. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $17

86 Bodega Norton 2019 Reserva Chardonnay (Mendoza). Aromas of white flowers, but-

ter, woody oak and generic white fruits set up a basic palate with just enough acidity to keep things in balance. Barely ripe apple and melon flavors are a touch stalky and salty, while this feels diluted on the finish. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

83 Terrazas de Los Andes 2019 Reserva High Altitude Vineyards Chardonnay (Mendoza).

Harsh aromas of matchstick, burnt popcorn and stalky apple lead to a palate with little to no grip or elegance. Shallow buttered apple and white pep-per flavors finish with stalky notes. Nothing about this Chardonnay impresses. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

82 Funckenhausen 2019 Chardonnay (Men-doza). This large-format Chard opens with

almost no color and lean aromas of white fruits and swimming pool chlorine. Briny apple and green onion flavors dissipate on a watery finish. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $15/1 L

ROSÉS

87 Domaine Bousquet 2020 Made With Organic Grapes Rosé (Tupungato). Dusty, yeasty aro-

mas show notes of orange peel and cantaloupe. This feels round and pleasant, with a bolt of helpful acid-ity. Slightly salty and bitter flavors of orange and nectarine carry over to a mostly fresh finish. WISD LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

86 Doña Paula 2020 Early Harvest Rosé (Men-doza). Light aromas of orange peel, crushed

vitamins and tomato leaf set up a palate that’s fleshy on the surface but hollow down below. Salty flavors of red apple skins and peach pit fade away quickly on a mild finish. Prestige Beverage Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $9

85 Rutini 2019 Destino Rosé de Malbec (Men-doza). A yeasty veil covers pinched aro-

mas of citrus, cumin and sweat. The palate on this Malbec rosé is lightly citric, while mild orange and melon flavors don’t rise above basic. Skins-based bitterness surfaces on the finish. Wood Wines Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.2% Price: $10

84 Zolo 2020 Signature Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown and Bottled Rosé (Mendoza).

Notes of melon, pumpkin and citrus peel comprise a wan nose, while this feels chunky and creamy on a palate that’s low on spunk. Stalky, yeasty flavors are nondescript, while this hints at cantaloupe on the finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $10

83 Rutini 2019 Destino Insight Rosé (Mendoza). Gritty aromas are more acrid than fresh and

fruity, while the palate on this rosé is mildly citric at first then flat. Generic nectarine and orange juice flavors lose clarity as early onset oxidized notes settle in on the finish. Wood Wines Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

AUSTRALIAWHITE WINES

94 Jasper Hill 2018 Georgia’s Paddock Riesling (Heathcote). For full review see page 6. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 12% Price: $37

93 Alkoomi 2019 Riesling (Great Southern). This is a tasty vintage of a classic Great

Southern Riesling. Lifted, delicate aromas of fresh lemon-lime, lavender and talcum powder with a whiff of honey lead to a long, harmonious palate. A crunch of acidity makes the citrus fruit feel tin-gly. Ginger spice and textural layers add complex-ity. Bone-dry, this would make an excellent pairing

with spicy Southeast Asian cuisine. Little Peacock Imports. —C.P. abv: 12% Price: $25

91 Torbreck 2019 Woodcutter’s Semillon (Barossa Valley). One of Torbreck’s most

affordable reds, this is a rich, chocolaty winter warmer with plenty to like. Aromas of cranberry, plum, beetroot, cocoa and savory herbs and spices lead into a powerful, mouthcoating palate. Tannins are dusty and chewy, lightened by a lift of acidity and juicy fruit. There’s a lick of oak showing here—more so than on the previous vintage. A plate of protein is recommended. Delicato Family Wines. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $20

90 Seppeltsfield 2019 Riesling (Eden Valley). This historic estate is famed for extremely

old fortified wines, but its newly released table wine range provides solid modern Barossa tipples at affordable prices. The Riesling is bright and spritzy, jumping from the glass with lemon-lime sherbet aromas and softer honey and flower blossom char-acters. The palate is both slippery and chalky as well as clean and fruity but still bouncy and bright. A straightforward, likable drop. Legend Imports. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

89 Château Tanunda 2019 Grand Barossa Dry Riesling (Barossa). Gentle aromas of cit-

rus zest, flint and a slight nuttiness open on this straightforward Riesling. The palate is creamy with enough acidity to keep it refreshing. Citrus, nut and a slight caramel flavor carry through to the finish. AUSA Pacific. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $20

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

94 Penley Estate 2019 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Coonawarra). For full review see page

7. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $20

93 Château Tanunda 2017 50 Year Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa). This tradi-

tional bottling opens with a deep well of rich, win-ter warming aromas: cassis, plum, chocolate, bay, eucalyptus, graphite, and peppery spices. The palate is rich and muscular but with restraint and a tang of fruit that offers much needed freshness. Tannins are broad-shouldered and dusty with myriad spices. Drink now with rare steak or roast mushrooms, or cellar until 2035, at least. AUSA Pacific. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

91 Hollick 2019 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). A classic Cabernet nose, this

is medicinal and herbal, with notes of olive, currant and tobacco leaf. There’s a cool winter berry vibe about it. Tannins are powerful, spicy and talc-like in texture, nicely weaving together the red fruit and

BUYINGGUIDE


acidity. A big wine for tannin lovers but one that maintains harmony. Serge Doré Selections. —C.P. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

91 Hollick 2018 Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Coonawarra). This is a polished Cab

that showcases Coonawarra’s regional personal-ity with characters like mint, blue and purple fruit and pencil shavings, all backed by chocolate, vanilla and toasty oak. There are bundles of tangy fruit in the mouth, wound by powerful, drying tannins and a spicy note to the finish. If drinking now, have protein and decanter at hand, or ideally wait until 2035. Serge Doré Selections. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

88 Hollick 2019 The Bard Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). This ruby-hued Cab is ini-

tially soft and fruity, with bright cherry fruit, euca-lyptus, tobacco leaf and an underbelly of peppery spice. The palate is on the lean and mean side, with shrill acidity that feels jarring after the eager charm of the nose. There are distinct Cabernet tannins, chalky, taut and spicy, and a purity of fruit, but not enough to add flesh to the bones. Serge Doré Selec-tions. —C.P. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

GRENACHE

97 Yangarra 2018 Ovitelli Grenache (McLaren Vale). Yangarra’s fourth-ever bottling of

concrete-egg-fermented Grenache from biodynamic bush vines planted in 1946 is as elegant and ethe-real as it gets. The color of rosy cheeks, it pulses with raw beauty: pure red berry and plum fruit etched with delicate floral notes and savory, earthy, briny nuances. Tannins are gorgeously textured, sappy and fine with understated power. The fruit crackles, silky and sexy. A singular, site-expressive wine of precision and grace. Easily one of Australia’s best Grenaches. Drink now–2030. Jackson Family Wines. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

95 Yangarra 2017 High Sands Grenache (McLaren Vale). 2017 was a comparatively

cool vintage, which has ramped up the elegance and freshness factor on Yangarra’s most premium and renowned wine. Compared with the raw beauty and pure joy of the Ovitelli Grenache (which is half the price), this is a more polished wine, set for time in the cellar but also drinking beautifully now. The floral characteristics shine alongside brambly fruit and soft savory, mineral aromas. The palate is open-knit, with juicy berries washing over the tongue, followed by a tug of highly textural and precise tannins. Drink now–2030. Jackson Family Wines. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $100

91 Powell & Son 2017 Brennecke Grenache (Barossa Valley). At 15% alcohol even in a

relatively cool vintage like 2017, this is a power-ful, polished Grenache made by former Torbreck winemaker David Powell and his son Callum from

120-year-old bush vines in heavy red clay soils. The nose is a heady combo of dried plums, toasty oak, cherry cola, cloves and myriad other spices. Bar-rel influence dominates on the granular palate, but through the cracks peeks silky, concentrated fruit and baking spice. It somehow manages a semblance of elegance amid the power. A singular Grenache that will appeal to big red drinkers. Drink until 2030. Powell & Son. —C.P. abv: 15% Price: $250

88 Adelina 2018 Grenache (Clare Valley). This wine’s label may be slightly provocative,

but the wine inside isn’t. It’s straightforward, fruity and without pretense. There’s a touch of something savory, but this is really all about the bouncy red berry aromas. The palate is light to medium in weight, round and open with plush yet juicy fruit. Tannins are drying and a little bitter. Still, this is a user-friendly, modern Grenache. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. —C.P. abv: 13.3% Price: $40

MOURVÈDRE

94 John Duval Wines 2018 Annexus Mataro (Barossa Valley). Duval’s Annexus wines

are different each year, neatly showcasing the natu-ral vintage variation of the region he knows so inti-mately. The 2018 unravels like a ball of twine, first with earthy, green herbal notes, then licorice and cherry cola, then black currant and a slightly metal-lic, sanguine nuance, like a slab of raw steak on a steel cutting board. There’s tang and freshness to the palate with makes it feel less dense even while wound in muscular tannins. A Mataro (aka Mourvè-dre) of precision and finesse that walks a tightrope of elegance and power. Drink now with said steak until 2030. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

93 Chapel Hill 2018 Mourvèdre (McLaren Vale). This is an oh-so-Aussie expression of

Mourvèdre (or Mataro, as it’s sometimes known Down Under) showcasing the prowess of the vari-ety on its own. The nose is a deep well of dark ber-ries, plums and cedar with fistfuls of herbs and hints of black olives and toasty oak spice. There’s lovely freshness on the palate, silky fruit and pow-dery, well-integrated tannins. A full-flavored, win-ter warmer wine that avoids feeling overly rich or heavy. American Estates Wines, Inc. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

92 Torbreck 2017 The Pict Mataro (Barossa Valley). This Mataro (Mourvèdre) offers

all of the charm and polish of Torbreck’s fine red wines, with the price tag to go with it. The cooler 2017 vintage adds a lovely lift and elegance to this wine. Cherry cola and vanilla mingles with rasp-berry and black currant with a varietal character of dried herbs and spices there, too. Tannins are taut and sinewy, nicely juxtaposing the silky, juicy fruit. There’s a good lick of high-end oak showing at the moment, but overall this is a precise, balanced

wine to drink now with protein until 2030. Delicato Family Wines. —C.P. abv: 15% Price: $100

SHIRAZ

96 Yangarra 2017 Ironheart Shiraz (McLaren Vale). Lucid and expressive, this opens with

a mélange of aromas: cherry and currant, sweet and savory spices, chocolate, floral and mineral base notes. The palate follows suit just as you’d expect, with a lovely juxtaposition between elegance and crunchy red berries tempered by taut, fine, highly textural tannins. A spiciness lingers. Drink now with rustic, meaty autumn and winter dishes, or cellar until 2035, at least. Jackson Family Wines. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $110

94 John Duval Wines 2017 Eligo Shiraz (Barossa). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.5% Price: $100

94 Seppeltsfield 2018 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 15% Price: $22

93 Penfolds 2018 Bin 128 Shiraz (Coonawarra). This is a rich Shiraz from Coonawarra’s

terra rossa soils. Heady notes of plum, currant, bak-ing spice, mint and licorice have an earthy, savory underbelly as well as a polish of toasty oak. Tannins are powerful but finely structured, pinning the fruit into place. A big, steak-friendly wine from a solid vintage with high-gloss appeal. Drink now–2030. Treasury Wine Estates. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

93 Powell & Son 2017 Barossa & Eden Valleys Shiraz (Barossa Valley). When it comes to

Powell & Son’s large range of premium Shiraz, this is your best bang-for-buck bottling. It showcases the best from Eden and Barossa with a personality lacking in some of the more polished, oak-driven wines. Aromas are lifted, vegetal and spicy: green peppercorn amid red berry, cranberry, subtle spices and minerals. The palate is powerful but shows freshness and restraint. Tannins are fine and well integrated with the crunchy fruit and peppercorn spice. Drink now–2035. Powell & Son. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $56

93 Yalumba 2016 The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz (Barossa). The vines for this premium Shi-

raz date on avergae to 1936, with some going back to 1854. From French and American staves coopered on site, Octavius offers an evocative and multifac-eted nose with everything from currants, licorice and mocha to cedar, bay leaf and clove. The palate is powerful and lean at the moment, with elevated acidity and taut, slightly woody tannins. There’s a nice tang to the fruit. It’s hard to predict how this will age, but the hope is it’s got another decade left in it at least. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $135

WINEMAG.COM | 27

92 Powell & Son 2017 Loechel Shiraz (Eden Val-ley). Despite the relatively cool climes of the

Eden Valley and the lift of red fruit they provide, this is a big, rich wine with quite a lot of oak influ-ence. Strawberry and cherry fruit is ensconced in minty, chocolaty barrel characters. The palate is equally oak-driven, particularly on the finish. But there’s a silkiness and freshness to the fruit, and tannins are textural and well structured. This is destined for the cellar and should age nicely. Drink 2022–2040. Powell & Son. —C.P. abv: 14.7% Price: $115

91 Powell & Son 2017 Schulz Shiraz (Barossa Val-ley). Koonunga Hill, with its rich clay soil,

is an old-vine site often associated with Penfolds, which uses the name for a whole range of its wines across multiple districts. This wine is entirely from the old vines. It’s a high octane bottling, at 15% alcohol, but is a great example of the site. The nose is a heady combo of plum, blueberry, polished oak, baking spice and chocolate. There’s a sleek sheen to the tannins and a lovely acidity that keeps the fruit fresh. Oak is very present here, too. Drink now–2028. Powell & Son. —C.P. abv: 15% Price: $115

90 Powell & Son 2017 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). This is a rich, old school Barossa Shiraz.

Plump fruit in the form of currants and blueber-ries are backed by notes of olive brine, earthy spice, charred veg and a furniture polish-and-vanilla-oak character. The palate is dense but not overtly syr-upy or muscular. There’s quite a bit of high-gloss oak showing here but plenty of fruit and spice, too. Powell & Son. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $31

89 Château Tanunda 2018 Grand Barossa Shi-raz (Barossa). This is a ripe Cab that opens

with notes of currant, plum, tobacco and eucalyptus leaf, with a savory backbone. The palate is muscu-lar, with fine, savory tannins and lingering fruit fla-vors. This lacks the depth and finesse of Tanunda’s more premium wines but is a solid drop nonethe-less. AUSA Pacific. —C.P. abv: 15% Price: $23

88 Layer Cake 2019 Shiraz (South Australia). This shows little sense of place or variety,

but it’s a tasty drop nonetheless, especially for the price. The nose is spicy and fruity, offering up entic-ing aromas of fresh cherry, plum, bay leaf, thyme and ground pepper. The palate is on the thin, astrin-gent side but with just enough texture and tannin structure to keep the fruit in balance. Deutsch Fam-ily Wine and Spirits. —C.P. abv: 14.9% Price: $16

88 Penfolds 2018 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz (South Australia). Penfolds’s oldest bin label is

an old school, American oak-laden wine. The nose hides the barrel influence somewhat with layers of mint, licorice, mocha and baking spice aromas propping up plump plum and dark cherry fruit. The palate, however, is highly oak-driven. The plush fruit sits heavily but offers some tangy refreshment

amid a soft line of spicy tannins. Drink now–2028. Treasury Wine Estates. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

87 Paxton 2019 Now Made With Organic Grapes Shiraz (McLaren Vale). This is, hence the

name, a drink-now style with no added sulfites. It’s a clean wine but stylistically it feels confused, wanting, perhaps for more whole bunch or some-thing to add more refreshment. Fruity and ripe, it leads with fleshy red berries, damp leaves, violet and a slight meaty note. The fruit on the palate feels somewhat heavy and syrupy even while the texture is thin with plenty of acidity. Tannins are soft but astringent and don’t quite jell. Cabernet Corpora-tion. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 St Hallett 2018 Black Clay Shiraz (Barossa). This is warm, ripe South Aussie Shiraz at

an affordable price. It opens with dense, slightly woody aromas of cherry chocolate and blackberry jam backed by a bit of damp earth and savory spice. The plush fruit and chunky oak notes continue on the palate, where fruit feels a little stewed and tan-nins a bit astringent. Accolade Wines. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

85 3 Rings 2019 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). This is a ripe, confected Shiraz with notes of black-

berry jam and vanillin oak. The palate is disjointed, with a rush of acidity that somewhat sours the fruit. Slightly astringent tannins angle for space. Quint-essential Wines. —C.P. abv: 14.9% Price: $20

85 Yellow Tail 2019 Shiraz (South Eastern Aus-tralia). This is a straightforward, somewhat

synthetic Shiraz showing no sense of place or vari-ety. Vague red fruit, peppery spice and a plastic-and-wood note lead to a palate that is thin and astringent, with some juicy fruit and tannins but little structure or depth. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

RED BLENDS

95 Hickinbotham 2018 The Peake Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (McLaren Vale). This is a

precise and highly ageworthy example of Oz’s most famed red blend. Fleshy plum and blueberry fruit mingles with mint and other dried herbs, chocolate, bay leaf and peppery spice. The barrel influence is there, too, but it’s better integrated than in the past. At the moment the palate is a beast, with oodles of fruit and spice and muscular, chalky tannins, but there’s chisel, finesse and a lengthy finish—all the trimmings of a harmonious wine set for the long haul. Drink until 2040. Majestic Imports. Cellar Selection. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $150

94 Hickinbotham 2017 The Peake Cabernet Sau-vignon-Shiraz (McLaren Vale). The Peake is

an American’s (Chris Carpenter’s) ode to the classic

Aussie red blend. 2017 was a fairly cool vintage and it shows here. More elegant, lucid and fruit driven than the ’18, this may not age as long but it’s drink-ing pretty darn well now. Notes of cherry, blueberry, licorice, violet and five-spice powder are wound in sappy, savory tannins that have lovely texture and integration. A powerful but harmonious wine that should age gracefully until 2035. Majestic Imports. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $150

93 Powell & Son 2017 Red (Barossa). This is a ripe, fleshy, bombastic GSM with a nose

you could dive into like the deep end of a swimming pool, backstroking in milk chocolate, ripe blueber-ries and violets, lined with baking spice, ground pepper and cedar. The palate is rich, almost vis-cous, in texture. There’s a woodiness amid oodles of juicy, slippery fruit and chiseled tannins. Broad shouldered, with a good lick of alcohol, this is a high-octane wine that somehow also achieves some elegance and approachability. Drink now–2028. Powell & Son. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Battle of Bosworth 2014 White Boar Organic Red (McLaren Vale). The Shiraz and Cab

grapes for this organic wine are left to dry on the vine for two weeks, which isn’t overly obvious since the wine is fresh-fruited, even with some bottle age, and there’s a lovely raw, stripped back feel to it. The nose is a fragrant combo of cherry cola, plums, potpourri, dried mint and ground pepper with a medicinal herbal back note. The palate is straight-forward—medium- to full-bodied with gentle, well-integrated tannins and silky fruit—but there’s an overall ease and charm about this wine that will make it the first to be drained at the dinner table. California Beverage Co. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Henschke 2017 Johann’s Garden G-S-M (Barossa Valley). This GSM (which con-

tains 76% Grenache) is painted with the distinctive brushstrokes of the historic winery. Finessed, pre-cise, even filigree, it’s initially shy. Gentle aromas of cherry, plum, florals and baking spice and a slight savory note float from the glass. The palate is full but with elegance, and an interesting way of unfold-ing on the tongue. First, the silky, tangy fruit. The tannins creep in toward the end, with lovely tex-ture and grip. The finish is on the short side. Not Henschke’s most memorable wine but a solid and ageworthy bottling nonetheless. Drink until 2030. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $66

91 D’Arenberg 2017 The Ironstone Pressings G-S-M (McLaren Vale). This vintage of Ironstone

is as muscular and tannic as always, but perhaps due to the cool vintage, there’s more elegance and layers here than in previous years. It takes time in the glass to open up, slowly revealing fleshy berries, licorice, florals, peppery spice and vanillin oak aro-mas. The palate is tightly wound, cinched by mas-sive, chalky tannins. But there’s a lovely lift to the fruit, particularly on the finish. Drink with decanter

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and fatty food at hand, or cellar until 2028. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

91 D’Arenberg 2017 The Stump Jump Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre (McLaren Vale). For full

review see page 19. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

90 Levantine Hill 2015 Samantha’s Paddock Melange Traditionnel (Yarra Valley). This

is a moderately cool climate Bordeaux-style blend from steep, low-yielding vines that delivers the heady aromatics of blueberry and black currant compote, violet, pepper and medicinal herbs. The palate is less broad and more linear, wound in taut, chalky tannins and lifted acidity. A chiseled, muscu-lar wine that’s fresh but also seems to be showing a fair bit of bottle age. MHW, Ltd. —C.P. abv: 13.6% Price: $143

89 D’Arenberg 2017 d’Arry’s Original Grenache-Shiraz (McLaren Vale). This 50-50 blend

of Grenache and Shiraz from a comparatively cool vintage, starts out fleshy, fruity and attractive, with ripe blueberries and violets at the fore, backed by soft peppercorn and earthy, savory spice. Then come the tannins—chiseled, drying, granular in texture and all-encompassing. The fruit manages to poke its head out but is soon muscled out by the massive tannins that don’t quite integrate. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

88 Greg Norman Estates 2018 Shiraz-Cabernet (Limestone Coast). For full review see page

19. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

88 Kellermeister 2015 Ralph’s Ensemble Reserve Red (South Australia). This blend of

Malbec, Shiraz and Merlot is a ripe, raisiny, woodsy bottling showing a fair bit of oak influence along with earthy, peppery herbs and spices, dried florals and eucalyptus. The palate is massive, even with some bottle age. Fruit is dense but fading slightly, and tannins are chewy. Give this several hours in a decanter. Cape Ardor LLC. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Maxwell 2017 Little Demon G-S-M (McLaren Vale). This cherry-hued GSM blend is

bright, open and oh-so-Aussie. Fleshy, ripe rasp-berry and cherry fruit lead the nose, backed by cin-namon, bay leaf and ground pepper aromas. The medium-weight palate is more straightforward, with fresh berry fruit wound in savory, sappy tan-nins that feel a touch astringent, particularly on the finish. Rodinia LLC. —C.P. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

CALIFORNIACHARDONNAY

97 Three Sticks 2018 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 3.

abv: 14.1% Price: $60

96 Donum 2018 Year of the Dog Single Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). This lovely white is

light on its feet, despite its inherent power and con-centration. Tangerine, grapefruit and peach flavors come to the fore with ease, integrated within a cra-dling of toasted oak and intriguing notes of nutmeg, clove and earth. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

96 Three Sticks 2018 Alana Vineyard C hardonnay (Russian River Valley). Quenchingly com-

plex in crisp lemon, lime and grapefruit, this is a sublime, supple and seductive vineyard-designate, well balanced and compelling through to the end. Textured and well integrated in oak and ripeness, it unfurls additional components of green apple, stone and nutmeg slowly and with purpose. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $75

95 Red Car 2018 Zephyr Farms Vineyard Chardon-nay (Sonoma Coast). A hearty mouthfeel

belies this wine’s quintessential and quenching acidity, driven by its cool-climate provenance and winemaking style. Green-apple, pear and tangerine flavors meld together easily along a midpalate of complex structure and length, with a lift of crisp-ness reappearing on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $58

94 Anaba 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Bright and enduringly elegant, this white

sources grapes from several Dutton-farmed sites in addition to the Scribe property in Sonoma. Citrus and pear flavors are wrapped in baking spice and brioche, never losing sight of its lively, fresh foun-dation of acidity. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

94 Anaba 2018 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay ( Sonoma Coast). Caramel and honey greet

one on the entry in a subdued richness, giving way to laser-focused, vibrant acidity and fresh fruity notes of pear and pineapple. Floral and balanced, it is seamless in structure and well integrated, with quiet oak and tannin. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $46

94 Ancien 2018 Musque Chardonnay (Coombsville). This wine opens in insanely

floral musque-driven honeysuckle, the palate follow-ing through in lively, fresh waves of green apple and wet stone. Barrel fermented, the oak is quiet and well integrated, providing structure and substance. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $42

94 De Sante 2018 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6.

abv: 13% Price: $45

94 Donum 2018 Estate Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is a concentrated, struc-

tured and complex white from the appellation, estate-farmed and robust in youthful power. A length of lemon pith, toasty oak and grippy tannin comple-ment mineral elements of crushed rock and apple blossom, accentuating the inherent intensity. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

94 Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Rued Vineyard Char-donnay (Green Valley). For full review see

page 6. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

94 Red Car 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Deliciously crisp in tangerine, this lovely

white features a pear-like creaminess on the mid-palate, a complex complement that tangles through structured, nuanced elegance. This boasts fruit from several vineyard designates, including grapes from Zephyr (80% of the mix), Red Car estate (13%) and Mohrhardt (7%). —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $38

94 Red Car 2018 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). Fresh and stony in

texture, this lovely, light-bodied white expresses anise and oyster shell, with a touch of brine. Tex-tured and complex, it delivers plenty of nuanced apple, pear and Meyer lemon, within a foundation of structure and grace. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $62

94 Sanford 2018 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Ripe aromas of

melon, salted white peach and light caramel are off-set by tense lime-pith scents on the nose of this bot-tling. It’s tense and deeply layered in mineral tones on the palate, where oyster-shell and chalk flavors meet with lemon-pith and toast tones. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $55

93 Alquimista Cellars 2017 Mes Filles Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Lemony

crisp in lime and grapefruit, this vineyard-desig-nate made by Greg La Follette is acid-driven and textured—a lovely, balanced combination of cool-climate style and substance. From a site in the Sebastopol Hills, it shows the spice and earthiness of that fog-enshrouded region. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $57

93 Anaba 2018 WestLands Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Linear and racy in acidity, this is

a steely, elegant white with a rounded midpalate and accents of honeysuckle and lemongrass. Meyer lemon, lime and blood orange combine with bal-anced oak and tannin, finishing in a touch of baking spice. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $64

93 Chiron Wines 2018 Nectar Dance Chuy’s Vine-yard Chardonnay (Moon Mountain District

Sonoma County). Barrel fermented, this white is rich and oak-influenced, with a memorable taste of pineapple upside-down cake. Sparkling acidity and

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a floral edge of honeysuckle balances and contrasts against the richer tones and complex body. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $50

93 Donelan 2017 Nancie Chardonnay (Sonoma County). A blend sourced from four vine-

yards, including old vines from Farina Vineyard on Sonoma Mountain, this impressive white is com-plex and structured. A floral opening of jasmine and ginger leads to a lengthy fruit component of red apple and peach, the oak neutral and the finish fresh in acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

93 Journeyman 2018 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Nutty and rich in baked apple,

this is a luscious and layered wine highlighted by lovely secondary aspects of pineapple and pear. Lengthy and complex, it wraps in its oak compo-nents seamlessly. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

93 Landmark 2018 Damaris Reserve Chardon-nay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page

9. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

93 Paradise Springs 2018 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Layers

of ashy minerality meet with hints of lemon peel, melon and warm cake on the pure and focused nose of this bottling. The palate is also laser-tight, show-ing lemon and grapefruit peel, chalk, brisk green-apple and slightly saline flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $47

93 Ruby Hill Winery 2017 Reserve Collection Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). Mature and

inviting honey, butterscotch, pear tart and toasted nut flavors help give this full-bodied wine a warm, broad expression on the palate and a lingering fin-ish. It is concentrated, layered and mellow, showing what an extra year or two in the winery cellar can do. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $26

93 Sanford 2018 La Rinconada Vineyard Char-donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Clean while creamy

aromas of Meyer lemon zest, honeysuckle and but-ter show on the nose of this single-vineyard expres-sion. The tense palate delivers a strong mineral kick from chalk and chiseled stone, offering tight yuzu and lime-peel flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

93 Sangiacomo 2018 Roberts Road Vineyard Chardonnay (Petaluma Gap). For full review

see page 9. abv: 14% Price: $65

93 Spear 2018 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Clean lines of grapefruit peel, crushed sea

shell and an alkaline citrus pith show on the nose of this estate bottling. The lime-peel and pith focus of the palate leads into a toastier finish, yet it’s the

firm and fresh acidity that keeps the attention. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

93 Thomas Fogarty 2017 Damiana Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Soft,

creamy aromas of nectarine and apricot meet with warmer touches of butterscotch and crème fraîche on the light yet lush nose of this bottling. There’s a chalky, grippy texture to the sip, where a toasty backdrop upholds flavors of baked lemon, macada-mia nut and sea salt. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $62

92 Alma Rosa 2018 El Jabali Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 10.

abv: 14.1% Price: $48

92 Bee Hunter 2017 Mariah Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendocino). Attractive butterscotch and

vanilla aromas lead to tight fruit flavors and nutty, toasty notes in this full-bodied and well-balanced wine that is at once broad in mouthfeel and nicely braced with tangy acidity. Best from 2023. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $42

92 Colluvial 2017 Las Nenas Sierra Madre Vine-yard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Opu-

lent aromas of butter and pineapple meet with brisk tones of grapefruit peel on the nose of this bottling. A compelling chalky texture frames the palate, where brisk lime, lemon balm and more underripe pineapple fl avors lead into a blanched almond fin-ish. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $39

92 D’Alfonso-Curran 2018 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Clean lines of lime balm,

crushed limestone and crystallized pear are lightly brushed with butter on the engaging nose of this bottling. The palate is also a showcase of purity, delivering kiwi, lemon peel and lychee before lead-ing into delicate flavors of buttercream and macada-mia nut on the finish. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $38

92 Diora 2018 La Grande Lumière San Bernabe Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Mon-

terey). For full review see page 10. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Keller 2019 Oro De Plata Chardonnay ( Petaluma Gap). Fresh in anise, peach and

stone, this wine has a nuanced texture and crisp, mineral-driven steeliness that keeps it lively and vibrant in the glass. Stainless-steel fermented and aged in neutral oak, it is a lovely take on the cool-climate appellation. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

92 Kendall-Jackson 2019 Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay (California). For full review see

page 11. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

92 Merryvale 2018 Silhouette Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Made from estate grapes as

well as fruit from other prominent sites, this wine opens in a mix of matchstick and fresh hay. Nutty brioche and stone-fruit accent a succulent and lux-urious core of richness and weight, with a lasting lift of acidity. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $70

92 Ram’s Gate 2018 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). Steely and made in an elegant,

refined style, this vineyard-designate impresses in its grasp of stone and floral qualities: floral on the nose and linear in vibrant acidity. Green apple, pear and Meyer lemon compound a sophisticated, tex-tured varietal expression. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $70

92 Red Car 2018 Mohrhardt Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). Earthy crushed rock and

gravelly texture meets a crisp frontier of tanger-ine, lime and green apple in this coastal-influenced white. Earthy and slightly spicy, it reveals deft ele-ments of nutmeg and light, integrated oak. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $58

92 Rubino Estates Winery 2018 Landmark Col-lection Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). This

big, bold wine was made in a classic California reserve style, offering heady aromas of toasted oak and roasted walnuts, rich and deep Bosc pear fla-vors and a deliciously thick texture that helps carry it all through a lingering finish. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $40

92 Sarah’s Vineyard 2018 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Clara Valley). For full review see page

12. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.8% Price: $36

92 Starmont 2018 Chardonnay (Carneros). Both barrel and stainless-steel fermented,

this is a bright, balanced white wine that shows a juicy core of pear and apple. Lively and weighty, it has substance and style within a context of vibrant acidity and earthy stone. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

91 Bouchaine 2018 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). Creamy and rounded in style,

with ripe, rounded edges, this white from the great site shows a wealth of floral effusiveness and ample texture. Stone fruit and green apple mingle around vibrant, lengthy acidity and nuanced oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

91 Grgich Hills 2017 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Nutty, floral and earthy, this

white has a crisp entry of wet stone and earthy white flower. Exotic and well integrated, it shows a lovely mix of pear, mango and peach that finds vibrancy through a backbone of balanced acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $43

91 Grgich Hills 2017 Paris Tasting Commemora-tive Chardonnay (Napa Valley). With a touch

of reduction and matchstick on the nose, this wine takes time to unfurl—its thick, rich opening notes finding a sense of lightness on the midpalate.

BUYINGGUIDE


Almond, apple and pineapple flavors are met by a mineral component of crushed rock and wet stone. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $97

91 Hess 2018 The Lioness Chardonnay (Napa Valley). An estate-grown wine given 15

months in French oak, 35% of it new, this is a rich and creamy expression of the grape, opening in a hit of cinnamon stick. A luxurious midpalate is high-lighted in brioche, green apple and Meyer lemon, with a balanced take on both acidity and oak. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $65

91 Jax 2019 Y3 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 14.

abv: 13.2% Price: $20

91 La Pitchoune 2016 La Révolte Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Creamy texture supports a

core of Golden Delicious apple and crème caramel in this medium-bodied, richly layered white, given 16 months in French oak, 28% of it new. A backbone of crisp acidity keeps it fresh and vibrant from start to finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

91 Landmark 2018 Overlook Chardonnay ( Sonoma County). For full review see page 14.

abv: 14.3% Price: $27

91 Lester 2018 Lester Family Vineyards Chardon-nay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Very focused

and citrus-driven scents of grapefruit and lemon peel kick off the nose of this bottling, which also shows hints of lychee, melon and a metallic miner-ality. It’s tightly wound on the palate, where sharp lime and lemon-peel aromas lead into richer waves of macadamia nut, dried herb and light toast. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $37

91 Lion’s Head 2018 Panthera Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Rich in an oak-driven layer-

ing of caramel crème brûlée and butterscotch, this wine is lengthy and lush on the palate, with a hearty soul balanced by underlying acidity. It shows coastal coolness and touches of baking spice and earthiness. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

91 MacRostie 2018 Kent Ritchie Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Floral and mineral-

driven, this white is also robust in tropical and stone fruit, while being substantial in style and body weight. A note of honey adorns the palate and nose and emphasizes the viscous roundedness in the wine. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

91 Ram’s Gate 2018 Estate Chardonnay (C arneros). Floral and exotic in stone fruit,

with a succulent midpalate, this estate white shows a flourish of quince, peach and white fig, the acid-ity vibrantly wrapped around a firm, supple core of structure and elegance. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $76

91 Ruby Hill Winery 2018 Jewel Collection Series Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Livermore Valley).

Butter, caramel and butterscotch nuances swirl through this golden-colored, full-bodied and luxu-riously textured wine, strongly complementing the baked apple, honey and vanilla flavors for a very rich, concentrated expression. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $40

91 Saintsbury 2018 Sangiacomo Green Acres Chardonnay (Carneros). Honeysuckle and

lemongrass accent a steely core of wet stone, Meyer lemon and pear in this crisp, balanced vineyard-designate. As the core of fresh citrus builds, a con-trasting note of butterscotch teases and adds lasting richness. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $54

91 Saintsbury 2018 Sangiacomo Vineyards Char-donnay (Carneros). Made in an elegant, aus-

tere and refined style, this tastes of apple skin, pear and just a hint of peach. With well-integrated oak providing a foundation, it has a rich underbelly of baking spice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

91 Santa Barbara Winery 2018 Reserve Char-donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Dried apple and

lemon-peel aromas meet with savory hints of dried herb and peanut shell on the nose of this bottling. There’s a savory streak to the sip as well, where oregano adds to the dried citrus and toasted nut flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $26

91 Taraval 2019 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High-lands). Pristine aromas of gardenia lead into

salted orange slices, papaya, baked nectarine and yuzu spray on the nose of this bottling. There is a decent tightness to the palate, where mandarin-pith and peel flavors lead into riper peach by the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $18

91 The Calling 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Bright and racy with a textured core of Meyer

lemon and crushed rock, this wine impresses in its balance of richness and acidity. Secondary notes of brioche and oak come to the fore as it develops, fin-ishing weighty and with length. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

91 Z. Alexander Brown 2018 Uncaged Chardonnay (Monterey). Very clean lines of chalk, white

melon and Meyer lemon peel make for a very pure entry to the nose of this bottling. It’s tightly wound on the palate, moving from brisk lime to warmer lychee, toast and buttercream flavors toward the finish, yet retaining freshness throughout. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

90 Amici 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a clear, focused white, balanced and

complex, with a lush midpalate. Apple, pear and stone fruit combine with ease around integrated oak and a lasting thread of baking spice. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

90 Amor Fati 2018 Murmur Vineyard Chardon-nay (Santa Maria Valley). Tart lemon, light

mango and lime-zest aromas meet with hints of jas-mine and lemongrass on the nose of this bottling. There is tense framing to the sip, where rounded apple-flesh flavors sit atop lingering acidity, with a slightly vinous tone on the finish. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $55

90 Benziger 2018 West Rows Sangiacomo Vine-yard Chardonnay (Los Carneros). An oaky

nose leads to a core of vanilla and tropical mango on the palate in this richly layered white wine. A steely backbone of acidity helps to keep it both balanced and fresh. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $34

90 Bruliam 2019 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). A delicate expression of

the cool-climate site, layered and textured in ele-gant layers, this white offers quiet tones of green apple, Meyer lemon and wet stone. The oak is well integrated and supportive, adding a touch of body to the graceful whole. —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $50

90 Chalk Hill 2018 Estate Chardonnay (Chalk Hill). An acid-driven beginning evolves into

a bigger, richer style on the midpalate of this wine, which is richly opulent in caramel, brioche and an intensity of fig. Rounded and lengthy, it has full-figured flavor. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $42

90 Cooper-Garrod 2018 Gravel Ridge Vine-yard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains).

There’s a unique and intriguing show of terroir that comes through each vintage on this wine. Alkaline aromas of baking soda and lemon pith meet with light apricot and nectarine on the nose. The palate combines dried lemon and pear peels with a strong rocky character. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $33

90 Copia 2019 White Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Generously aromatic on the nose,

this bottling begins with floral wafts of gardenia, jasmine and lily as well as a bit of white-lemon flesh. The floral tones carry through on the sip, but also pick up lemongrass and coconut-cream flavors as well. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

90 Hess Collection 2019 Allomi Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A rich opening of spicy oak

and cinnamon red hots leads the way to a midpalate of rich and rounded varietal style in this well-made, value-minded wine. Delivering texture and flavor, it finishes in a viscous layering of honey and crème brûlée. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $36

90 J. Lohr 2019 Riverstone Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco). For full review see page 20. Best Buy.

abv: 13.9% Price: $14

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90 Keller 2019 La Cruz Chardonnay (Petaluma Gap). Nutty, earthy and toasty, this estate-

grown white has a steely undercurrent of pulsing acidity that keeps it vibrant and fresh. Strong fla-vors of pear highlight a medium-bodied palate of integrated flavors and texture. —V.B. abv: 14.18% Price: $45

90 Ken Brown 2018 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Toasty aromas of coconut, lemon

glaze and a hint of marshmallow make for a rich expression on the nose of this bottling. It’s ripe on the palate with baked lemon-bar and toasty hazel-nut flavors, finishing on buttered toast kick. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $38

90 La Pitchoune 2016 Pratt Vineyard Chardon-nay (Sonoma Coast). Steely and crisp in

green apple and pear, this balanced white also fea-tures an intriguing note of anise. Aged 16 months in French oak, 33% of it new, it is medium bodied in texture and body weight. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $58

90 LangeTwins 2019 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Clarksburg). For full review see page 21.

Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $15

90 Lumen 2019 Sierra Madre Vineyard Chardon-nay (Santa Maria Valley). Sharp aromas of

lime peel and lychee are very tart and brisk on the nose of this bottling from the Sierra Madre Vine-yard. The palate is also laser sharp and stinging with acidity, which will mellow with time and allow the grapefruit-peel and apple-flesh flavors to come forward. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

90 Maddalena 2018 Estate Reserve Chardon-nay (Monterey). For full review see page 18.

abv: 14.9% Price: $20

90 McIntyre Vineyards 2018 McIntyre Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High-

lands). Dried lemon-peel, honeysuckle and kiwi aromas show on the nose of this bottling from renowned viticulturist Steve McIntyre’s estate. Brisk flavors of lemon juice and light nectarine meet with hints of underripe pineapple on the sip. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $38

90 Mueller 2017 LB Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Seamless and stone-driven, this

wine is steely with a touch of pineapple and peach. Medium bodied, it delivers fruity richness that is balanced by well-integrated acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $36

90 Paradise Springs 2018 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Tart lemon-peel aromas meet

with light marshmallow and hazelnut on the nose of this appellation blend. Long-lingering acidity and a taut texture frame the elderflower and nut flavors of the palate. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $39

90 Porter & Plot 2018 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Very floral aromas of plumeria and

jasmine meet with clean lines of apricot, pear and chalk on the nose of this bottling. The chalky miner-ality comes through on the palate as well, balancing the ripe tones of peach oil and tuberose, and finish-ing on a bit of toast. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

90 Riley’s Rows 2018 Platt Vineyard Baby Platt Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This tiny-

production wine from the famous coastal site is austere and steely in style, with a wealth of great acidity. Textured and balanced, it sings in apple, pear and wet stone, it was fermented in both con-crete egg and neutral French oak. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $39

90 Thompson 31fifty Wine 2018 Sister Sophie’s Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River

Valley). Dense, decadent and lush in style, with vig-orously rich tropical fruit, this full-bodied wine is appealingly lush. Finishing touches of brioche and crème caramel underscore its bold, memorable weight and length. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Valravn 2019 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Barrel-fermented and given 10 months in

French oak, this is an impressive and value-minded white with wide appeal. Rounded and balanced, it shows structured layers of steely flint, green apple and peach. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $20

89 Alquimista Cellars 2016 Lorenzo Vineyards Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Hearty

and oaky, this wine has a confectionery character that makes it lush and ripe in style. Honeycomb and brioche add to the substantial intensity. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

89 McIntyre Vineyards 2016 Block K1 McIntyre Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia

Highlands). This bottling is starting to show its age a bit, with aromas of Meyer lemon balm leading into brioche and toasted chestnuts. The palate offers flavors of applesauce, light vanilla and dried lemon peels. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $52

89 Nelson Family Vineyards 2019 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Mendocino). Mild baked apple

flavors and a smooth, palate-coating texture give this full-bodied wine a quiet appeal. Hints of butter, vanilla and peach develop on the palate and linger on the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

89 Noble Vines 2019 446 Chardonnay (Mon-terey). One of the more reliably overdeliv-

ering brands in California wine today, this bottling begins with aromas of freshly baked apple, sea-salt caramel, vanilla and butter. Both poached and baked apple flavors show on the sip, where a metallic min-

erality frames a finish of more vanilla and light but-tercream. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

89 Santa Barbara Winery 2019 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). There’s a focused

streak of rocky minerality on the nose of this bot-tling along with lime-blossom, lemon-balm and apple-rind aromas. The palate is very citrus-driven, showing lime and grapefruit pith, and then floral waves of jasmine and plumeria take over, leading to a coconut finish. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

89 Vahali 2019 Jhelum Estate Chardonnay (Paso Robles). Tightly woven aromas of

honeysuckle, gardenia, Asian pear and lychee make for a pleasant nose on this bottling. There is a tight weave to the texture of the palate, where lime pith leads into more generous flavors of plumeria and poached pear. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $36

88 Carol Shelton 2018 Wild Thing Chardonnay (Sonoma County). With tiny amounts of

Marsanne and Viognier, this lively white is reduc-tive at first and showy in oak. It evolves to deliver a rich, rounded expression of vanilla, peach and pear, finishing in baking spice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

88 Grayson 2019 Lot 11 Chardonnay ( California). Pippin apples and Anjou pears come to mind

as this generous and fruity wine spreads lavish fla-vors across the palate. Dashes of vanilla and honey add some extra interest but the pure fruitiness defines it. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

88 Highlands 41 2019 Chardonnay (Monterey County). Crisp Asian and green-pear aro-

mas meet with jasmine on the very floral nose of this bottling. A tightly wound citrus flavor on the palate unfurls into richer poached pear and sea-salt flavors. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

88 Kendall-Jackson 2019 Winemaker’s Block Chardonnay (Monterey County). Toasty aro-

mas of macadamia nut, coconut and light marsh-mallow show on the nose of this bottling. With light tannins that float across the fluffy, pleasant palate, the wine offers seared apple and more marshmallow flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

88 MacRostie 2018 Wildcat Mountain Chardon-nay (Sonoma Coast). Rounded and rich in

caramelized apple and undeniable earthiness, this is a full-bodied, robustly made white wine from the site. The oak is pronounced and contributes addi-tional heartiness and length. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $46

88 Michael Pozzan 2018 Giapoza Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Semitropical in style and

floral on the nose, this is a likable white that’s

BUYINGGUIDE


smooth and simple, with understated richness and length. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Vezer Family Vineyard 2018 Arlene Chardon-nay (Suisun Valley). Almost-sweet pear and

apple flavors are ripe and mouthfilling in this fruity and moderately spicy wine. Hints of vanilla and toast complement the juicy pear notes and are balanced by light acidity. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $40

88 Wild Horse 2016 Cheval Sauvage Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This wine is show-

ing its age a bit, yet begins with inviting aromas of h oney, seared marshmallow, buttercream and marzipan. It’s less lush on the palate than expected, with flavors of salted almond, roasted apple and more marzipan. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

87 Estancia 2018 Chardonnay (Monterey County). Lemon and grapefruit-peel aromas

meet with baked apple on the nose of this bottling. Seared apple and Meyer lemon flavors show on the simple but pleasant palate. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

87 Monte Smith 2017 Dutton Ranch Chardon-nay (Russian River Valley). Barrel fermented

and aged, this white is meaty and full bodied, with a robust intensity on the palate. Peach, pineapple and fennel highlights lead to an oaky finish. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

87 Parducci 2019 Small Lot Chardonnay Char-donnay (Mendocino). This fruity and mildly

buttery wine is medium bodied, feels pretty rich and ripe and offers red- and green-apple flavors accented by light vanilla notes. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Sand Point 2019 Chardonnay (California). This rich and buttery wine offers an aroma

of buttered popcorn, flavors of cream and butter-scotch and an almost sweet texture that’s soft in acidity. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $11

87 Sketchbook 2019 Chardonnay (Mendocino). Like a liquid apple pie, this wine revels in

cinnamon, butter and baked apple flavors carried on a rich texture. It’s mouthfilling, soft in balance and seems sweet on the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

86 Chalk Hill 2018 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This hearty white is brimming in

green olive and fig, with a restrained use of oak and lingering note of celery seed. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $26

86 Oberon 2018 Chardonnay (Los Carneros). This is a steely and highly floral white con-

taining just a smidgen of Muscat, while being soft,

approachable and value-minded, with fruity sec-ondary notes of apricot and fig. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $22

86 Sobon Estate 2018 Chardonnay (California). This full-bodied superbuttery wine over-

flows with baking ingredients like nutmeg, vanilla and coconut. It’s rich in texture, rather heavy on the palate and lets the pastry flavors take over the fruitiness. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $18

86 William Gunn 2019 Chardonnay (El Dorado). This smooth and rich-textured wine offers

a creamy mouthfeel, light apple and Bosc pear fla-vors and a noticeable streak of earth, almond and flint. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

84 Frey 2019 Biodynamic Chardonnay (Mendo-cino). Flinty, doughy flavors dominate

this dry and full-bodied wine made from certified organic grapes, giving it an austere, smoky character and a rather lean, tight texture. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

CHENIN BLANC

93 Lieu Dit 2018 Chenin Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). There’s a tremendous display of

rocky minerality on the nose of this bottling, which offers crushed granite, wet river stone and wet wool aromas, as well as a bright sense of lemon blossom. The chiseled stone character carries through the palate, where grippy tension frames lime pith and delicate honey flavors that emerge toward the finish. —M.K. abv: 12.8% Price: $27

92 Lang & Reed 2019 Chenin Blanc (Mendocino). This rich and mouthfilling wine from a pro-

ducer that has long championed Chenin Blanc offers wonderfully subtle and layered flavors of baked apple, cream and nutmeg. Hints of vanilla, pear and peach emerge on the palate and linger on the finish. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $30

92 Thacher 2019 Own-Rooted Shell Creek Vine-yard Chenin Blanc (Paso Robles Highlands

District). Crisp aromas of creamy pear, chiseled granite and a hint of pineapple show on the nose of this bottling from a vineyard in eastern Paso Robles. The palate is lively and florally aromatic without being overwhelming, offering restrained tuberose and plumeria flavors while clinging to a taut frame. —M.K. abv: 13.09% Price: $32

89 Sierra Del Mar 2019 Chenin Blanc (Clarks-burg). This rich and fruity wine offers a

distinctive blend of apricot, peach and mint fla-vors that are lifted by subtle acidity. The mouth-feel is soft if not quite sweet, leaving lingering fruit impressions on the finish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

88 Vinum Cellars 2018 CNW Cuvée Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). This fresh, fruity and smooth

wine offers abundant fresh apple and melon fla-vors, medium body and a soft texture lifted by just a touch of appley acidity. It’s a crowd-pleaser. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 Rootdown 2018 Heringer Vineyard Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). Butter and butterscotch

aromas spill over to the palate, where buttery, toasted flavors come with a touch of tannin in this light-bodied wine. —J.G. abv: 11.71% Price: $29

GRENACHE BLANC

93 Top 2018 Axis Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles). One of the more texturally driven white

wines coming out of Paso Robles, this bottling by Stanley Barrios starts with a shy and subtle nose of yucca flower and honeysuckle. The tightly woven, grippy palate offers grapefruit peel and Meyer l emon zest, leading into a long, zesty finish. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $48

91 E16 2019 Baby Rattlesnake Vineyard Grenache Blanc (El Dorado). This tantalizing, dry and

tangy wine offers a rather rich texture contrasting with steely, crisp flavors like Pippin apples, white pepper and lemon zest. Complexity and good bal-ance come together nicely. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $32

91 Lion Ranch 2018 Estate Grenache Blanc ( Santa Clara Valley). There’s a compellingly

reductive line throughout this wine that recalls crushed rocks, flint and chalk from the nose to the palate. Singed grapefruit peel also shows on the nose and the palate is very grippy, the texture showing more prominently than the tight pome and citrus flavors. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

87 Sunstone 2019 Grenache Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Very ripe peach and guava aromas

show a slightly acetic edge on the nose of this bot-tling. Baked apple flavors are drizzled with balsamic yuzu sauce and a hint of paraffin on the palate. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

ALBARIÑO

92 Brick Barn 2019 Albariño (Santa Ynez Valley). From a newer vineyard just east of the Sta.

Rita Hills, this bottling begins with very fresh and inviting aromas of clean pear, Meyer lemon peel and a hint of guava skin. There’s a fun acidic bounce to the sip, where Key lime and lemongrass keep up a very zippy profile. Good signs for this grape in this climate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $38

WINEMAG.COM | 33

92 Edio 2019 Estate Grown Albariño (El Dorado). Floral and appley aromas lead to a rich,

rounded mouthfeel and fresh Anjou pear flavors in this generous-feeling but technically light-bodied wine. It has the broad, soothing texture of a barrel-fermented, lees stirred wine. —J.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $24

90 Hungry Hawk 2019 Estate Reserve Albariño (San Diego County). Ripe Asian pear, clean

pineapple and elderflower aromas show on the nose of this bottling from the hills north of San Diego. Pink Lady and Gala apple flavors meet with lime peel on the palate. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $34

PINOT GRIGIO

92 Bargetto 2019 Regan Vineyard Pinot Grigio (Santa Cruz Mountains). Clean and snappy

aromas of crystallized citrus and pome fruits are sharp but forgiving on the nose of this barrel-fer-mented bottling, which also offers a hint of honey dust. The palate shows green-pear and tight apricot flavors, wrapped in a grippy texture and washed by refreshing acidity. —M.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $28

90 Lumen 2019 Sierra Madre Vineyard Pinot Gris (Santa Maria Valley). Slightly honeyed

aromas kick off the nose of this bottling, which also shows orange blossom, struck stone, baked apple and a hint of wax. The palate tangs with grapefruit peel before leading into roasted apple and an array of floral flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

89 Donkey & Goat 2019 Filigreen Farm Pinot Gris (Anderson Valley). This skin-contact

wine made from biodynamic grapes is iconoclastic and worth trying. A fascinating luminescent cop-per color and a scent like kombucha lead to vibrant mandarin orange, earth and almond flavors on a technically light body supported by tangy acidity. It looks and tastes like a rosé but the winery doesn’t call it that. —J.G. abv: 11% Price: $30

88 Estancia 2019 Pinot Grigio (California). Nectarine, lime-pith, lemon-blossom and

pink-fleshed-fruit aromas show on the nose of this bottling, which exhibits the slightest shade of pink in the glass. Yellow-apple-skin flavors pop on the soft palate. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $12

MOSCATO

90 Electra 2019 Red Moscato (California). This superconcentrated and sweet red wine

offers abundant rose-petal and jammy berry flavors that are lifted by tangy acidity. It is difficult to think of a more refreshing and lively sweet wine. —J.G. abv: 5.5% Price: $16

88 Quady 2019 Electra Moscato (California). Effusive floral and honey aromas meet ripe

and mango and pineapple flavors in this low-alco-hol, sweet and mouthcoating wine. It balances the sweetness with a bit of tangy acidity. —J.G. abv: 4.5% Price: $16

88 Salt of the Earth 2019 Rubino Moscato (California). A fresh, grapey aroma leads to

sweet, vivid berry and cherry flavors that are nicely balanced by good acidity. This low-alcohol wine has a refreshing, charming quality even though quite sweet. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 7.5% Price: $12

87 Salt of the Earth 2019 Flore De Moscato ( California). This extra-sweet wine is indul-

gent and syrupy, pouring out almost thick, hon-eyed, baked melon and apple flavors that are well concentrated. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 7.5% Price: $12

SAUVIGNON BLANC

93 Paradise Springs 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Very light

in the glass, this crisp and direct bottling shows aromas of nectarine and peach as well as pristine hints of gardenia, plumeria and white lily on the nose. The palate is engaging on all fronts, from the acidity and tense structure to the rounded flavors of lychee, guava skin and more white flowers. —M.K. abv: 11.9% Price: $32

92 Estancia 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey County). Clean and sharp aromas of lime

and pomelo pith converge with rounded nectarine and blooming honeysuckle on the complex nose of this bottling. It’s tight on the palate, combining zesty Meyer lemon peel with richer elderflower flavors. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

92 Lieu Dit 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Clean lines of chalk, lime peel and

juiced citrus meet with a strongly grassy streak on the nose of this Sancerre-esque bottling. A grippy tension grabs hold of the palate, where pomelo skin and more grass tones carry into a zesty finish. —M.K. abv: 12.6% Price: $25

92 Santa Barbara Winery 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Very fresh aromas of

ripe honeydew, nectarine, lychee and coconut flesh make for very expressive nose on this bottling. There is lots of zip to the sip, where pear rind and apple-flesh flavors ride a grippy texture into the refreshing finish. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

91 Rangeland 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Adelaida District). Strong mineral-laced aromas of

oyster shell lead into grapefruit rind and jicama on the crisp nose of this bottling. The mineral tension shows on the sip as well, as does freshly zested lemon

and yellow pear, followed by a tingling sensation into the finish. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

90 Tortoise Creek 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (C entral Coast). Broad aromas of yellow apple meet

with crisp citrus peel and cold steel on the nose of this bottling. The palate packs riper baked peach flavors with clean lines of lemon zest and pleasant white flower. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $12

89 Blue Victorian Winery 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Suisun Valley). Bold flavors of dried herbs,

snap peas and shallots ride a smooth, possibly oak-aged texture in this full-bodied wine. There is no mistaking its varietal character, which comes in spades. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $14

88 McClain Cellars 2018 Savana Grace Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Slightly hazy in

the glass, this bottling begins with warm tones of honey, peach, baked lemon and a hint of wood. On the palate, baked apple, vanilla and oak flavors make for a rich expression, finishing on toast and nuts. —M.K. abv: 14.15% Price: $36

88 Ruby Hill Winery 2018 Reserve Collection Sauvignon Blanc (Livermore Valley). Good

concentration and a sense of roundness and full body make this wine more than just refreshment. The deep apple, herb and lemon flavors are enjoy-able to savor. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $22

88 Summerland 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). Cut grass, margarita mix, lime peel,

light peach and a hint of smoke show on the nose of this bottling. There’s a touch of oak on the palate too, where baked lemon and apricot flavors ride a simple texture. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

87 KIng Chancho 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). Dried citrus, crushed herb and wet

rock aromas show on the nose of this bottling. The palate offers lime peel, dried grass and just a hint of garden herbs. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

87 Pomelo 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Fresh apple and lemon aromas lead to crisp,

clean citrus flavors in this light-bodied, friendly wine. It’s straightforward, drinkable and refreshing. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 Dough 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). Assertive herb and earth aromas lead to

brothy, herbal flavors in this medium-bodied, crisp and tangy wine. It’s refreshing and appetizing in a full-on veggie style. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

BUYINGGUIDE


86 Oak Mountain 2019 Fumé Blanc (Temecula Valley). Aromas of wax, clay, dried citrus

and river water show on the nose of this bottling. There’s a strong vinous character to the sip, where lime-peel and honeysuckle flavors arise. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

VIOGNIER

91 Cooper-Garrod 2019 Randall Grahm Clone Viognier (Santa Cruz Mountains). Broad

peach, pineapple and light mango aromas meet with a sharp citrus-zest streak and chalky mineral-ity on the nose of this bottling. The palate is tightly wound, with a flinty, baking-soda-like minerality, which frames the sharp lime-peel and rounded peach flavors. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $39

90 Bottle Jack 2019 Viognier (Sierra Foothills). Mineral-driven aromas of struck stone and

dried earth lead into mint, lemon balm and peach blossom on the nose of this bottling. There’s a sharp citrus tone to the sip, where mango and makrut lime flavors met with lemongrass and tart pineapple. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $28

90 Paradise Springs 2019 Viognier (Los Olivos District). Ripe apple, pear, nectarine and

apricot elements are cut by crisp and clean lime-peel and grapefruit-balm aromas on the nose of this bottling. The palate is tightly wound and chalky, with a lightly floral flavor carrying into the finish. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

89 Boekenoogen 2018 Bell Ranch Vineyard Viognier (Monterey). Seared peach, daffo-

dil, stone-fruit blossoms and pineapple cream show on the nose of this bottling from the upper Carmel Valley. There’s a steely minerality to the sip, where apple-blossom and tropical-flower aromas flex against a tight textural weave. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

87 Sobon Estate 2019 Viognier (Amador County). This modestly fruity but mouthfilling wine is

flavorful and well balanced. Mild butter and cream flavors mingle with Anjou pear and floral notes that are typical of the varietal. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

86 Vahali 2019 Jhelum Estate Viognier (Paso Robles). Ripe aromas of banana and mango

bubblegum show on the rich nose of this bottling. Peach-custard and banana-pudding flavors come through on the fat palate. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $36

WHITE BLENDS

94 De Sante 2018 The Old Vines (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6.

abv: 13% Price: $40

92 Donkey & Goat 2019 Gadabout (California). This rich and well-balanced wine is packed

with luxurious but not overwhelming toast, almond, butter and vanilla flavors that blend with a core of Anjou pear. It’s full bodied, well rounded in texture and nicely balanced by acidity. —J.G. abv: 12.2% Price: $25

92 Rootdown 2019 Es Okay (Mendocino). Intri-cate peach, almond and pistachio flavors are

backed by zingy acidity in this flavorful, lively and well-balanced wine. It offers a fascinating spectrum of flavors and a refreshing, lively texture. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

91 Byron Blatty 2019 Aurora (Los Angeles County). Delicate white-flower aromas of honeysuckle

and yucca bloom meet with crisp, aromatic apple slices on the nose of this blend of 72% Sauvignon Blanc, 18% Sémillon and 10% Viognier. There’s a tang of lemon and grapefruit peel on the palate, with warmer yet fresh hints of mango and coconut as well. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $37

91 Carol Shelton 2019 Coquille Blanc (Paso Robles). For full review see page 13.

abv: 13.5% Price: $25

91 McClain Cellars 2018 Open Arms (Santa Ynez Valley). This blend of 75% Viognier and 25%

Grenache Blanc begins with tight citrus peel, apple flesh and warm nectarine on the crisp and clean nose. It’s taut on the palate, where yellow-apple, sea-salt and Meyer lemon flavors pick up a slight nutty tone on the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

91 The Prisoner 2019 Blindfold (California). Lush fruit flavors are lavishly accented by vanilla,

butter and caramel in this full-bodied, soft-textured wine. Poached pears and honeydew-melon flavors fill it out nicely, giving a relaxed sense of sweetness. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

90 Angeleno 2019 Alonso Family Vineyard White Field Blend (Los Angeles County). Not

only is this brand elevating the past and future of Los Angeles wine, it’s using obscure, but possibly climate-right, grapes to do so. This blend of 35% Godello, 35% Loureiro and 30% Treixadura shows honey-cake, walnut-cream and hot sandstone aro-mas on the nose. It’s nutty and creamy on the rich palate, with cashew and baked stone-fruit elements. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

90 Iron Oaks 2019 Flipside White (California). For full review see page 17.

abv: 14.5% Price: $32

90 The Prisoner 2018 Blindfold (California). This lush, ripe and opulent wine offers bold

aromas of vanilla, butter and banana followed by plump peach and poached pear flavors. A full body

and a nicely viscous texture are pleasant on the palate. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

89 Donkey & Goat 2018 Eliza Barsotti Vineyards (El Dorado). This fresh and different wine

smells sweet-tart and offers a light, lively palate of apricot and tangy tangerine accented by hints of almond and vanilla. Light body and a light spritz in the texture enhance its appetizing qualities. —J.G. abv: 11.3% Price: $42

86 E16 2019 Baby Rattlesnake Vineyard Viognier-Grenache Blanc (El Dorado). This

full-bodied wine is difficult to categorize. It shows a slight tawny tinge in its color, has a chalky min-eral-like aromas and offers a toasted almond flavor. It leans heavily toward a savory, earthy expression. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

OTHER WHITE WINES

94 Cole Ranch 2019 R2 Riesling (Cole Ranch). This beautifully balanced and complex wine

offers tempting toasted walnut and honey aromas followed by ripe peach and orange-zest flavors backed by brilliant acidity. It has a vibrant impact on the palate and a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $34

93 Vöcal 2014 Alfaro Vineyard Grüner Veltliner (Santa Cruz Mountains). This is a fascinat-

ing look at this grape, which was grown in a cool cli-mate and given a bit of bottle age. Aromas of mango Popsicle, underripe banana, botanical extracts and mashed nuts show on the nose. There’s an almost greasy texture to the viscous palate, where orang pith and unique Thai-like herb and spice flavors converge. It’s a very heady white wine. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

92 Cole Ranch 2019 Cole Ranch Vineyard Ries-ling (Cole Ranch). Vibrant but smooth, this

elegant fruit-centered wine surrounds ample green-apple and white-peach flavors with a rich, polished texture that also shows appetizing acidity. Subtle aromas of almond and ham give way to complex fruit flavors on the palate. —J.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $34

92 Donkey & Goat 2018 Stone Crusher Skin Ferment Roussanne (El Dorado). This

orange-hued wine practically bursts with bright aromas and flavors of apricot, orange zest, leather, heather and marmalade, while a light body, tangy acidity and a touch of tannin gives it a pleasant palate-cleansing effect. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 11.2% Price: $36

91 Oak Farm 2019 Estate Grown Fiano (Lodi). For full review see page 15.

abv: 13% Price: $26

WINEMAG.COM | 35

91 Sidebar 2019 Kerner (Mokelumne River). This medium-bodied white wine starts with

intriguing aromas of white pepper, crushed gravel and apple skin that give way to a slightly rounded texture (from aging on the lees) and intense Pippin apple, lemon and lemongrass flavors. Great balance between ripeness and crispness shows in this wine. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

90 Paradise Springs 2019 L’Orange d’ Rous-sanne (Los Olivos District). A bronzed,

golden-yellow color in the glass, this skin-contact orange-wine spin on Roussanne makes for a com-pelling sip. Aromas of honey, copper, wax and corn-meal lead into a very grippy, waxy and dry palate, where dried lemon and orange peels meet with chamomile-tea flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

89 Four Lanterns 2019 Clairette Blanche ( Templeton Gap District). It’s exciting to see

this grape be embraced in Paso Robles, and there’s much promise for the future. This bottling starts with aromas of lime extract, Asian pear, jicama and a hint of ash on the nose. The palate is chalky in tex-ture, showing orange-pith and crisp white-fleshed-fruit flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

89 Vezer Family Vineyard 2019 Franci Estate Verdelho (Suisun Valley). Pungent spicy,

floral, peppery aromas give this wine an arresting impression at first before generous melon and toast flavors coat the palate. It’s an attention-getting, assertive wine that wakes up the senses. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

88 Bee Hunter 2017 Yorkville Highlands Semillon (Yorkville Highlands). An aroma like dried

hay and subtle nut and apricot flavors make this a low-key, well-balanced wine that’s well worth exploring. Some crisp acidity contrasts with a touch of honey on the palate. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $32

88 Sidebar 2018 Kerner (Mokelumne River). An earthy, petrol aroma and crisp, tangy,

slightly herbal flavors mark this medium-bodied wine as something different, and hint at the grape variety’s German roots. It’s more savory than fruity, and worth a detour. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

SPARKLING WINES

97 Schramsberg 2012 J. Schram Rosé (North Coast). For full review see page 3. Cellar

Selection. abv: 12.8% Price: $160

95 Schramsberg 2011 Reserve (North Coast). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection.

abv: 12.8% Price: $130

93 Tongue Dancer 2015 Brut Rosé (Anderson Valley). This pale-pink, tangy and sophisti-

cated sparkling wine tastes bone dry, appetizing and complex, offering subtle raspberry, ginger and cin-namon flavors buoyed by crisp acidity and impres-sively tiny bubbles. It’s an outstanding first spar-kling wine from this Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $69

92 Donkey & Goat 2019 Lily’s Pet Nat Sparkling Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). This crisp,

dry and toasty wine boasts bold, freshly baked bread aromas and lemon and butter flavors on a lively tex-ture of tiny bubbles and brilliant acidity. It’s a fun, bracing twist on tradition. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 11.2% Price: $35

88 E16 2019 Sparkling Rosé (Fair Play). A beau-tiful copper color and rich fruit and spice

aromas provide a great entry to this lush, broad-tex-tured wine. It offers toasted bread and baking-spice flavors to complement a peach and cherry core. —J.G. abv: 12% Price: $35

88 Mia Nipote Winery 2018 Sparkling Barbera (Livermore Valley). Earthy aromas and

tempting prosciutto flavors give an unusual spin to this nicely mouthfilling and creamy-textured wine. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $48

87 Barefoot Bubbly NV Brut Cuvée (California). For full review see page 21. Best Buy.

abv: 10.5% Price: $10

87 Bogle 2019 Sparkling Rosé (California). Fresh cherry and floral flavors give this light-bod-

ied wine a jammy touch, while a rather soft efferves-cence makes it easy on the palate. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

87 Peltier 2018 The Gala (Lodi). This dry and lean, bottle-fermented wine tastes refresh-

ing and reserved, holding its subtle cranberry and cherry flavors very tightly with nervy acidity and crisp bubbles. —J.G. abv: 11% Price: $45

86 Barefoot Bubbly NV Extra Dry (California). For full review see page 22. Best Buy.

abv: 10.5% Price: $10

ROSÉS

93 The Great Brain Cell Sacrifice 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This slightly

yellow-pink bottling, which raises money for books for kids, is one of the better rosés of the vintage, starting with aromas of struck stone, lemon peel and ashy melon. It’s very crisp on the palate, with brisk lemon-spray and pink-lime flavors, bound together with immense tension. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

93 Paradise Springs 2019 Pink Ash Rosé (Santa Barbara County). One of the better rosés of

the vintage, this bottling, which features artwork by actor Billy Zane, begins with crisp and chalky aro-mas of rose and melon on the expertly crafted nose. There is extraordinary grip on the sip, with pleas-antly subtle melon and pluot flavors leading into a rose-petal finish. —M.K. abv: 12.1% Price: $29

92 Brick Barn 2019 Rosé of Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). A pale shade of pink in the

glass, this rosé is chalky on the nose, offering clean and inviting aromas of rose petal and delicate berry. It’s tight yet expressive on the palate, where an oyster-shell minerality meets with splashes of l emon and watermelon juice. —M.K. abv: 12.7% Price: $32

92 Hood 2019 Rosé (Paso Robles). Hood is the second label for Top Winery founder

Stanley Barrios, and its graffiti-sporting label is a nod to his South Los Angeles roots. The wine is a yellowish-pink in the glass, offering aromas of chalk, orange pith and peach. The grippy, crisp pal-ate presents flavors of Meyer lemon skin, tart pluot and a mineral hint of ash. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

91 Lieu Dit 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Santa Bar-bara County). Jubilant aromas of ripe melon,

strawberry and cotton candy make for a very appealing entry to the nose of this bottling. The pal-ate is generous as well, showing rose-petal, jasmine and more pink-melon flavors, balanced by plenty of acidity and a relatively taut texture. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

90 Centralas 2019 Hussy Barrel-Aged Rosé (Santa Barbara County). This is a unique

style of rosé, using the barrel to unleash a smokier edge to the 50–50 blend of Grenache and Syrah, and it works. Aromas of strawberry, melon and grapefruit peel lead into a lightly smoked palate, where fatter strawberry and roasted apple flavors emerge. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $29

90 Summerland 2019 Rosé (Central Coast). Fresh strawberry and lemon-pith aromas

meet with chalk and Ruby Red grapefruit on the nose of this rosé. There’s a compelling grip to the sip, where rounded strawberry flavors are prominent but held in check by the texture and acidity. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

90 Top 2018 Joule Rosé of Mourvèdre (Paso Robles). This rosé begins with aromas of

orange peel, tangerine juice, dried peach and a hint of chalk and clay on the nose. There is a pithy tex-ture on the palate, where those citrus components meet with a subdued red-fruit flavor that reveals a slightly older age. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $48

89 AJA Vineyards 2019 Rosé (Malibu Coast). Candied cherry aromas meet with more

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elegant lines of rose water on the nose of this some-what darkly shaded rosé. There’s a touch of roasted strawberry on the palate, as well as more cherry, with a decent tension. It’s an excellent pairing for a sunset over Malibu beaches. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $26

88 Battuello 2019 Rosé of Valdiguié (St. H elena). From estate-grown grapes, this wine is

acid-driven and steely, made in a light, fresh and austere style. Lemongrass, lemon peel and wet stone accent the palate and intrigue. The variety is a rarity in the New World, let alone the appellation. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

88 Lion Ranch 2019 Lioness Rosé (Santa Clara Valley). A slightly darker shade of orange-

pink in the glass, this rosé blend of 54% Grenache, 23% Cinsault and 23% Syrah offers dried cherry, cola and orange rind on the nose. The palate shows dried berry, citrus peel and a hint of savory herbs. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $22

88 Rootdown 2019 Jane’s Vineyard Rosé of Sangiovese (Mendocino). This light-bodied

wine is dry, clean and refreshing. Crisp acidity and a little nip of tannin give it a very lively texture that carries lean plum and peach flavors. —J.G. abv: 12.25% Price: $23

87 Bee Hunter 2015 Docker Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir Rosé (Mendocino). Although pale brassy

pink in color, this full-bodied wine offers substan-tial flavors beyond simply freshness. Its peach, apricot and plum notes are accented by light earthy, toasty flavors, apparently from long aging in the winery cellar, that add complexity and interest. —J.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $32

87 Pomelo 2019 Rosé (California). This light, fruity and fresh rosé is easy to sip and enjoy,

offering plenty of strawberry and raspberry fla-vors and fun floral accents. It’s nicely dry and well balanced. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 Grand Napa 2019 The Big Pink Rosé (Napa Valley). Nutty and somewhat metallic on

the palate, this is a hearty and full-bodied wine, with a taste of legume, earth and strawberry. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $43

85 Calculated Risk 2019 Rosé (Napa Valley). Sizzling fresh in earthy grapefruit and

strawberry, this medium-bodied wine becomes flat on the midpalate with a touch of metal and dried herb. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

82 Essere Franco 2019 Rosé of Malbec (Yount-ville). Dark ruby in color, this wine is flat

and slightly medicinal and not terribly pleasing on the palate. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

PINOT NOIR

96 Three Sticks 2018 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 4.

abv: 14.1% Price: $70

96 Three Sticks 2018 William James Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full

review see page 4. abv: 14.1% Price: $70

95 Au Bon Climat 2016 Knox Alexander Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Jim Clendenen is

the master of ageworthy California Pinot Noir, and this bottling, which blends the Bien Nacido and Le Bon Climat vineyards, will last for ages. Aromas of wild sage, thyme and sarsaparilla meet with deep boysenberry and black raspberry on the nose. The palate moves from sour plum to sagebrush, with s avory hints of game. Drink now through 2036. Cellar S election. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

95 Bee Hunter 2016 Docker Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino). For full review see page


95 Phillips Hill 2018 Roma’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Great balance,

pure fruit flavors and a brilliant mouthfeel make this elegant wine a real stand-out. Tangy acidity and fine-grained tannins support vivid red-cherry, cranberry and cinnamon flavors, making it a great choice for those who like their oak in moderation. Best through at least 2027. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

95 Three Sticks 2018 Cuvée Alana Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The inaugural vin-

tage is named for both the owner’s daughter, and also a Sebastopol-situated site. This red is gor-geously aromatic in rose and orange peel. Soft and delicate, it is lengthy and fresh in strawberry, black tea, forest floor and clove. It is balanced and beauti-fully complex. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $95

95 Three Sticks 2018 Walala Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a remote estate

property at 1,600-feet in elevation and typically above the Pacific Ocean fog, this is a chewy, wild and complex wine, structured in firm, elongated tannins. Forest-floor, black-tea and cranberry notes define its midpalate core of grip and understated power. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $70

94 Bargetto 2019 Mount Eden Clone Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Muddled black-

plum, loamy soil, dried hibiscus and dark mint aromas make for an intense but expertly measured nose for this clonal selection. The palate’s texture is polished and feathery, offering broad flavors of

black raspberry, light sage oil, rose petal and violet, proving very floral and plush. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

94 La Follette 2018 Black Road Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Crisp and

varietally satisfying in deft, delicate layers of cran-berry, pomegranate and wild strawberry, this bal-anced red is stemmy and earthy, accented in black tea and forest floor. It shines in both length and sup-ple mouthfeel, finishing in nutmeg. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $58

94 Montemar 2016 Bentrock Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Roasted black plum,

cinnamon and Christmas-spice aromas show on the nose of this bottling from one of the appellation’s westernmost vineyards. There’s a rugged gamy and earthy tone to the palate, where bright boysen-berry flavors are pumped up with herbs and smoke. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $52

94 Paradise Springs 2018 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Lively floral aromas of lavender and

violet meet with crisp black plum and pluot as well as slate and black loam on the nose of this blend of Sanford & Benedict and John Sebastiano vineyards. It’s very fresh, lively and zesty on the palate, where black-raspberry flavors are lifted by cola spice and nettle-like herbs. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

94 Phillips Hill 2018 Day Ranch Pinot Noir ( Anderson Valley). This elegant, almost

taut, wine is subtle but complex, carrying a combo of bright, crisp red-cherry and cranberry flavors and intricate cinnamon and cedar accents. It’s medium-bodied, fresh-tasting and a bit tight with acidity that will help it age well. Best from 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $47

94 Phillips Hill 2018 Oppenlander Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Inviting black-

cherry, rhubarb and rosemary aromas lead to mouthfilling, juicy and vibrant fruit flavors in this nicely balanced, medium- to full-bodied wine. Moderate tannins and tangy acidity keep it lively on the palate and help carry its delicious complexity through a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

94 Phinch 2019 Chene Vineyard Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). A tad hazy in the glass, this

four-barrel bottling of the 667 clone begins with aromas of cranberry, pomegranate and raspberry jam, as well as herbal touches of tarragon and pine needle. There’s a wild sense to the palate, where black plum, crumpled rose-petal and minty flavors play with tea and slightly bitter herbs into the tart finish. —M.K. abv: 12.7% Price: $44

94 Red Car 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). A light, delicate and ultimately

fresh red wine from an estate site in the cool-

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climate appellation, this wine brims in acidity and mineral elements of oyster shell and crushed rock. Strawberry, pomegranate and a bite of tangerine combine with ease across a taut, complex palate of great length. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $75

94 Red Car 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Juicy and shimmering in wild strawberry,

pomegranate and orange peel, this is a crisp and persistently fresh red wine, evocative of its cool-climate bona fides. With length and balance, it intrigues in whispers of black tea, cardamom and white pepper. —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $45

93 Bargetto 2019 Regan Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Muddled

mulberry and peppery spices meet with a gamy streak of raw lamb on the intriguing nose of this bottling. Ample fruit and hearty earth flavors show on the sip, which recalls a pork tenderloin topped with plum sauce and crumpled herbs of oregano and thyme. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $45

93 Bee Hunter 2016 Angel Camp Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Minty aromas and

dense dark-fruit flavors are wrapped in firm tannins and bracing acidity in this full-bodied, ageworthy wine. It offers well concentrated black-cherry and black-plum notes that should open up to more com-plexity by 2023 and beyond. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $80

93 Bee Hunter 2016 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Subtle, complex and glorious aromas and

flavors of black fruits, mint and oak spices give this full-bodied wine plenty to savor. Generous cinna-mon, nutmeg, clove and toasted oak accents weave through the nose, palate and finish. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $42

93 Centralas 2019 Syren Spear Vineyards Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page

8. abv: 14.4% Price: $39

93 D’Alfonso-Curran 2018 Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Generous while

crisp and clean aromas of boysenberry, dark straw-berry and cherry paste meet with underlying hints of mint and baking spice on the nose of this bottling from legends Kris Curran and Bruno D’Alfonso, who worked with this vineyard for decades as former winemaker for Sanford Winery. The acid-driven palate pops with sour cherry, tarragon, sage and pepper spices. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $64

93 Donelan 2017 Tripp’s Block Perli Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino Ridge). Ripe plums

and warm baking spices give this full-bodied wine a generous, inviting quality while a broad texture laced with fine-grained tannins is nicely mouthfilling. Clove, cedar and rosemary notes add to its complex-

ity and allure. It was made with 25% whole-cluster fermentation and 40% new French oak. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $78

93 Donum 2018 Ten Oaks Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This edgy, delicately ripe wine

is pushing the envelope on savory character, earthy in black tea, clove and stemmy energy. Tannins are enveloped within the folds of the tangy acidity and the nuanced fruit notes of orange peel and cran-berry. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $100

93 Donum 2018 White Barn Pinot Noir ( Carneros). Perfumed and effusively inviting on the

nose, this light, delicate red is earthy and stemmy, brimming in forest floor, clove and black tea. Plum and pomegranate notes are crisp and tangy. —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $100

93 Joyce 2019 Submarine Canyon Pinot Noir (Monterey). For full review see page 8. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $25

93 Lester 2018 Mercurio Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). For full review see page 9.

abv: 13.5% Price: $55

93 Lumen 2017 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Made by female winemaking trail-

blazer Lane Tanner from the Garey and Sierra Madre vineyards in the Santa Maria Valley, this thirst-quenching wine is very light in the glass, offering aromas of cranberry, wild thyme, dark sage and rust. Brisk acidity and spicy white-pepper flavors frame the dried strawberry, salumi and sagebrush elements of the palate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 12.9% Price: $40

93 Montemar 2016 Zotovich Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Clean while voluptuous

aromas of strawberry, star anise and cinnamon Red Hots candies show on the nose of this bottling, which remains very fresh. Grippy tannins frame cranberry, strawberry, rose-petal and mace flavors on the tight palate. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $48

93 Paradise Springs 2018 Founders Block San-ford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta.

Rita Hills). This is a superfresh expression of this hallowed block of grapes, starting with crisp aro-mas of black raspberry, pomegranate and light fen-nel pollen. It zips across the palate with fresh red-fruit flavors that are lifted by bay leaf and sage and wrapped in tangible tension. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $79

93 Rootdown 2019 Pinot Noir (Cole Ranch). An intriguing, earthy, minerally aroma con-

tinues in the flavors of this medium-bodied and attractively taut wine from the tiny American Viti-cultural Area of Cole Ranch. Snappy red-cherry and cranberry flavors meet a chalky, tangy quality on the palate for a sense of freshness and grip. —J.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $39

93 Saintsbury 2018 Donnelly Creek Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This gorgeous, deep and

concentrated wine overflows with black-cherry, stewed plum, rosemary and strawberry flavors nicely framed by light tannins and fresh-tasting acidity. It’s easy to love its richness, ripeness and good depth. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $68

92 Brashley 2018 Hacienda Sequoia Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review

see page 10. abv: 13.7% Price: $65

92 Diora 2018 La Grande Majesté San Bernabe Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Mon-

terey). For full review see page 10. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Donum 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Carneros). A perfumed, juicy wine bold and expressive in

black cherry, blood orange and wild strawberry, this offers a thick foundation of profound structure and pronounced oak. Full bodied, it is intensely complex and powerful. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

92 Donum 2018 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir ( Russian River Valley). This is a thick, con-

centrated and robustly ripe red wine, intensely fla-vored in dark tones of cherry and blackberry. Tannic and oak driven, it dances around complex edges of power and structure, suggesting a desire for more aging. Enjoy this red best from 2028–2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $125

92 Ken Brown 2016 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Roasted red-

plum and berry aromas meet with hints of hickory smoke, baked soil and dried mint on the nose of this bottling by pioneer winemaker Ken Brown. The pal-ate is quite rich, offering baked raspberry, mace and minty herb flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $60

92 Lafond 2018 SRH Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Subtle aromas of mulberry and wild red

cherry meet with smoked pork, peppercorns and mint on the nose of this bottling. It lands softly on the palate, where baked cherry and pomegranate flavors meet with rose petals and more mint. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Sangiacomo 2018 Roberts Road Vineyard Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap). Dark and brood-

ing in richly fruity layers of plum, dark cherry and sweet oak, this is an opulent and succulent wine, textured and complex in tannin structure and weight. Notes of baking spice, black tea and forest provide savory contrast to the ripe fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $70

92 Sarah’s Vineyard 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Clara Valley). Densely packed aromas

of boysenberry and blackberry are lifter by purple flowers, loamy earth and iron shavings on the nose

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of this bottling. It lands hearty on the palate, where the berry fruits are dark but still brisk and a linger-ing licorice spice leads into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

92 Square Peg 2017 Riddle Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 12.

abv: 13.9% Price: $65

92 The Great Brain Cell Sacrifice 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). This fundraising

wine, made by the Lieu Dit team and supporting the Books for Kids Foundation, begins with herbal aromas of incense, moss and smudged green sage as well as dark cherry and plum. The palate is hearty, with roasted cherry and plum flavors alongside tart plum-skin flavors, with a delicate rosewater ele-ment that carries into the finish. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $35

91 Bee Hunter 2017 Pinot Noir (Mendocino). A full body and a brawny texture give this

impressive and concentrated wine a big impact on the palate, where deep black-cherry, mint and cran-berry flavors vie for attention. Moderate tannins and good acidity add to its impression of strength and power. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

91 Cartograph 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 13.

abv: 13.3% Price: $48

91 Castello di Amorosa 2018 Terra de Promissio Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Juicy black fruit

leads the way to a wealth of black-tea, oak and for-est notes in this well-made, elegantly styled wine. Good acidity keeps it fresh and lengthy, the tannins supple and well behaved, providing structure and balance. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $NA

91 Chateau St. Jean 2017 Gap’s Crown Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap). Juicy black fruit and a hint

of black licorice dot the thick, opulent palate of this hearty wine from a warm vintage. Dried herb, clove and toasted oak finish in a swirl of vanilla. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $75

91 Colluvial 2018 Las Nenas Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Fresh hibiscus and boysenberry-pie

aromas show on the nose of this bottling. Crisp and tart berry flavors pop on the sip, where rose-petal elements add complexity and the acidity keeps the entire package very fresh. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $50

91 Complicated 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). For full review see page 13.

abv: 13.9% Price: $24

91 D’Alfonso-Curran 2018 Rancho La Vina Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Tart and tangy aromas

of red plum, hibiscus and dewy herbs show on the nose of this bottling, which comes from the vineyard that’s on the same property as this winery. Blistered

plum and red-currant flavors meet with star anise and warm clove spices on the palate. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $64

91 Highlands 41 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). The Riboli family is providing great

value with this newer line of wines, even in the hard-to-master affordably priced Pinot Noir cat-egory. Generous aromas of baked red plum, straw-berry, nutmeg and star anise lead into a palate that’s amply tense with prickly acidity. That balances the rich stewed fruit, caramel and mint flavors. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

91 McIntyre Vineyards 2015 Block 3 McIntyre Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High-

lands). Dark in the glass, this bottling offers a very earthy, genuinely Burgundian nose of mud, clay, mushroom and mulberry, with a light mint ele-ment providing lift. The palate is quite textural and deep, showing more mulberry as well as roasted figs alongside light pepper spice. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $56

91 Montemar 2016 Radian Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Hearty aromas of roasted

black plum and boysenberry meet with game, star anise and nutmeg on the nose of this bottling. The palate combines flavors of baked berry with vanilla and clove dust. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $52

91 Pennyroyal Farm 2018 Jean Sheep Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This generous,

mouthfilling wine offers abundant black-cherry, strawberry and mint flavors while fresh acidity and light tannins add a nice grip to the texture. It’s quite flavorful, well balanced and enjoyable. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $59

91 Phillips Hill 2018 L’Air de Mer Pinot Noir ( Anderson Valley). Abundant toasted oak

aromas and flavors dominate this full-bodied, bold and spicy wine. Wood smoke, black pepper and black cherry blend on the palate as moderate tan-nins give the texture a bit of a bite. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

91 Tassajara 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey). For full review see page 15. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 13.5% Price: $18

90 Buena Vista 2018 Chateau Buena Vista Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Smoky oak

wraps around baked cherry and baking spice in this robustly concentrated and full-bodied wine, warm-climate in nature and style. The jammy rich fruit is layered and lengthy. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Colluvial 2017 Sanford & Benedict Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Somewhat

extracted aromas of dark berries and cola meet with brighter edges of rosewater extract on the nose of this bottling. There’s a depth and power to the pal-

ate, where tangy black-raspberry and black-plum flavors meet with sagebrush and wild thyme. —M.K. abv: 13.85% Price: $55

90 Cooper-Garrod 2018 Two Vineyards Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). An earthy,

very dry take on the grape, this bottle offers aromas of dried strawberry, desiccated beef and rose-petal potpourri on the nose. The palate combines smoked red currant and plum with tar and black-pepper flavors. —M.K. abv: 12.9% Price: $43

90 Estancia 2016 Stonewall Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Scorched

boysenberry, cola, violet, aged meats and baking-spice aromas mesh together on the heady nose of this bottling. There’s a touch of sour plum on the palate, where star anise and roasted meat flavors lead into a long, smoky finish. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $27

90 Etude 2018 Grace Benoist Ranch Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Carneros). A well-made,

larger production offering, this wine is richly lay-ered in strawberry, raspberry and black tea, the oak slightly sweet and toasty. Smoky overtones provide a hint of game and earth, leading to a cohesive, resolved finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

90 Etude 2017 Heirloom Grace Benoist Ranch Pinot Noir (Carneros). Jammy with earthy,

savory elements throughout, this velvety, lush wine is made in a generously, brawny style. Dark red fruit mingles with black tea, clove and toasted oak, full-bodied and ripe on the lengthy finish. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $95

90 Montemar 2016 Hilliard Bruce Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Boysenberry,

mulberry, mace, star anise and sandalwood make for a spicy, fruity nose on this bottling. There is a woody flavor of cedar on the palate, where dark-raspberry, wild-mint and pine-needle elements converge. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $48

90 Ram’s Gate 2018 Cellar Note Pinot Noir ( Sonoma Coast). This wine pushes the

envelope in thick, tannic intensity, savory and earthy in forest floor and black tea. The fruit is elu-sive, a hint of orange peel and cranberry coming to the fore on the midpalate, boosted by lasting acid-ity. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $58

90 Schug 2018 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Carne-ros). This is a light-bodied, earthy and

textured estate wine, brightly layered in pomegran-ate and strawberry flavors. Varietal seasonings of clove and black tea give it complexity and a lengthy, savory finish. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $50

89 Estancia 2018 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). Slightly reductive hints of tar, dried plum,

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and crumpled hibiscus meet with hints of charcute-rie on the nose of this bottling. Tar and wood quali-ties kick off the palate, where dark strawberry and mulberry flavors meet with oregano and rose petal. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

89 Montemar 2016 Rancho La Vina Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Black cherry,

purple-flower and smoke aromas make for a clean and rich nose on this single-vineyard expression. The palate offers dark-berry jam, tarragon and men-thol flavors, with a light veil of smoke. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

89 Phillips Hill 2018 Boontling Pinot Noir (Ander-son Valley). This earthy and inviting wine

is named for the quirky dialect of early ranchers in Anderson Valley. It offers rather rich red- and black-cherry flavors laced with hints of licorice and leather on a well-balanced structure of light tannins and good acidity. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

89 Summerland 2018 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). Lightly colored in the glass, this bottling

begins with clean lines of black raspberry and boy-senberry, with hints of tarragon and nutmeg. The palate is broad with flavors of baked red berry, juniper and tarragon, wrapped in resinous tannins. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $17

89 Theopolis 2019 Pinot Noir (Yorkville High-lands). Meaty and savory flavors are well

matched with a firm texture and backed by good under lying cherry notes in this full-bodied and moderately tannic wine. Best from 2023. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $45

88 Fathers Daughters 2017 Ellas’s Reserve Ferrington Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson

Valley). This smooth, almost sweet-tasting and medium-bodied wine from the owners of Ferrington Vineyard offers mild cherry and raspberry flavors accented by ample vanilla and cinnamon touches on a polished texture. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $52

88 Kokomo 2018 Winemaker’s Reserve Peters Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This

is a robust, hearty and meaty red wine, brimming in tangy red fruit. Elements of baking spice, vanilla and earth accent a foundation of toasty oak. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $56

88 Longhouse 2018 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). Dried red-plum and juicy berry

aromas meet with a touch of oak on the nose of this bottling. On the palate, charred strawberry and vanilla-bean flavors met with a hint of oak, all wrapped in grippy, long-lingering tannins. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

88 Montemar 2016 Barrel Select Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Ripe aromas of blackberry

syrup, black cherry, clove and cola are quite rich on

the nose of this bottling. Wild-sage flavors kick off the sip, where a very sharp acidity cuts into ripe boysenberry jam. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $52

87 Chateau St. Jean 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is a thick, toasty and oak-driven

red wine, with waxy red fruit at its heart. Medium bodied and concentrated in flavor, it has a straight-forward and ripe finish. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $75

87 Folly of the Beast 2019 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). Slightly tarry aromas of cranberry,

charred beef and dusty, baked earth show on the nose of this bottling. Blistered cranberry flavors meet with slightly bitter earth tones on the palate. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

87 Hamdog 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Rosewater-extract, balsamic-

cranberry-sauce and potpourri aromas show on the tangy, slightly funky nose of this bottling. There’s a strongly tart tang on the palate of red-plum skins and pickled herbs. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

87 KIng Chancho 2018 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). Dried strawberries, leather and

hibiscus aromas show on the nose of this bottling. There’s a slightly sweet ripe quality to the red fruit of the sip, yet the smoke and dried herb elements keep it serious. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $17

87 Mon Frere 2019 Vintner’s Selection Pinot Noir (California). Bold and fruity, this medium-

bodied wine adds buttery overtones to almost jammy black-cherry and strawberry flavors. It feels soft and broad on the palate. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

87 Montemar 2016 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Rather extracted aromas of black plum

paste, clove and mace show on the nose of this bot-tling. The palate is very ripe with black-plum-pud-ding, nutmeg and dominant clove flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $44

87 Porter & Plot 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Scorched beef, singed sage, iron

shavings and cranberry aromas make for a unique nose on this bottling. There’s a rugged quality to the sip, where sun-dried earth and charred meat flavors sit atop the light strawberry and cranberry fruit. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $20

86 Cherry Pie 2016 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is a simple, hearty and

robustly ripe wine from the famous site that traffics in jammy black cherry and strawberry. Herbal com-ponents and clove notes give it an earthiness. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

86 Sierra Del Mar 2018 Pinot Noir ( California). This full-bodied wine shows a flinty,

charred aroma followed by robust cherry and grilled plum flavors wrapped in moderate tannins. It’s a hearty weekday beverage. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 Bogle 2018 Juggernaut Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). Reductive and thick in

waxy, dry tannins, this wine is robustly ripe. It offers jammy black-cherry and cola flavors, with an astringent quality to the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

96 Lail 2018 Blueprint Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 3.

Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $80

96 Penfolds 2018 Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 3.

Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

96 Spottswoode 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). This is from the

producer’s organically farmed estate and blended with 7% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. A beautiful, elegant and youthful wine, it offers seam-less texture and integration, quiet hints of blue-berry and black currant and a hint of cocoa powder. Gentle in nature and approach, it has a complex depth and more to say. Enjoy best from 2027–2037. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $225

95 Chappellet 2017 Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see

page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $250

95 Janzen 2018 Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Earthy

in compost, iron and graphite, this is a full-bodied and fully integrated wine with a remarkably elegant structure. Black-currant and blackberry-fruit com-ponents are richly layered throughout a core of sup-ple tannin and lasting oak. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $165

95 Janzen 2018 Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Entirely varietal

and given 22 months in 100% new French oak, this wine exudes dark-mocha, black-currant and cas-sis flavors, coming together in a seamless, opulent style. Sweet oak and notes of clove, cinnamon and black pepper dot a structured, complex and full-bodied wine of considerable length. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $225

95 Janzen 2018 Cloudy’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From the pro-

ducer’s estate vineyard on the north-eastern side of the valley, this is an earthy, elegant and classically

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structured wine, 100% varietal and aged 22 months in entirely new French oak. Cedar, pencil shavings and cassis combine around a core of structured tan-nin and powerful length. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $165

95 Waypoint 2018 Oakville Ranch Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Made from an

outstanding site in the eastern hills of the appel-lation, this wine is thick and concentrated in blackberry and mocha. Sage, dried herb and cedar contribute earthiness and complex varietal charac-ter—the tannins sturdy and strongly represented within the grippy intensity of the wine. Consider cellaring and enjoy best from 2028–2035. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $149

94 Bacio Divino 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a big red wine,

blended with 3% Sangiovese and aged 22 months in all new French oak, sourced from Beckstoffer Heritage Vineyards. A sweetness of berry compote and cassis rises on the nose and entry on the pal-ate, lifted by underlying acidity and earthy notes of cedar and pencil. It will do well in the cellar; enjoy best from 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $110

94 Janzen 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val-ley). This 100% varietal wine is made from

Beckstoffer Heritage vineyards’ fruit as well as the producer’s own Cloudy’s Vineyard. Juicy in black cherry and berry, with a hint of vanilla, it is power-fully built with underlying elegance and impressive integration. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

94 Jax 2018 Block 3 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calis-toga). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.9% Price: $125

94 Rangeland 2016 Limestone Reserve Caber-net Sauvignon (Adelaida District). For full


94 Stone Edge Farm 2015 Estate Bottled Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). For full

review see page 7. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.6% Price: $130

93 Benom 2018 Origin Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Still a bit young, this wine

takes a long time to open, but is wondrous once it hits that mark. Aromas of black cherry, blackberry, wet soil, crushed lava rocks and mushroom lead into a palate loaded with dark-plum, elderberry and eucalyptus-leaf flavors. With patience, the fruit, herb and earth elements converge in compelling ways. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $68

93 Beringer 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Creamy in texture and dec-

adent in style, this reserve-worthy, 100% varietal red is a mix of cherry cola and vanilla cream, that’s

lush and rounded with a length of baking spice. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $70

93 J. Lohr 2018 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review see page 8.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 15.1% Price: $35

93 Knights Bridge 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.5% Price: $115

93 Neyers 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9.

abv: 14.4% Price: $60

93 Poetic Justice 2018 Lowrey Vineyard South View Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Soft

and supple in dark chocolate, tree bark and rich lay-ers of blue fruit, this powerfully built red is grippy and textured, with enviable length. Cedar, dried herb and sage make appearances along the way, add-ing to the complex sophistication of the palate. This big-boned wine could do with more aging; enjoy best 2028–2035. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $225

93 Robert Young 2016 Scion Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Alexander Valley). This impressive red

combines 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Ver-dot, 8% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, nearly all hillside fruit. Together they offer a spicy, lively palate of brown spice, toasted oak and dark, brooding black fruit, integrated and structured to a complete finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

93 Sunstone 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). From the estate’s original

planting of about one acre, this bottling begins with aromas of crushed rocks, dark boysenberry and light fennel on the nose. Firm and dry tannins frame the sip, where ripe berry-paste flavors are cut by pencil shavings, turned earth, dried herb and more crushed rock. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $65

93 Waypoint 2018 Lowrey Vineyard Basalt Ledge Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

For full review see page 10. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.6% Price: $149

92 Etude 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Thick, leathery tannins support a

core of full-bodied, opulent blue fruit in this grippy, robustly styled red. Baking spice, mocha, sage and oak support the varietal fruitiness and exuberant length. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

92 Joyce 2018 Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon (Carmel Valley). Deep and dark black- cherry

aromas meet with woody caramel, light leather and dusty oregano on the nose of this bottling. The palate pops with fresher fruit and dark flowers, as

leathery tannins wrap up savory herb and sandal-wood flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $60

92 Knights Bridge 2017 Collinwood Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). A woody, savory

small-production wine, with notes of graphite around dense black fruit, this red offers substantial oak and tannin. It is also full bodied and structured within a complex context. Made entirely from one variety, it was aged 20 months in all new oak. It will do well with further cellaring; enjoy best from 2027–2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $150

92 Merryvale 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Thick, woody and savory in cedar,

pencil shaving and sage, this wine is substantial in style and weight, with firm tannin and toasty oak. Rich layers of black fruit, tobacco and dark chocolate complement the earthy opening. This will do well with further aging; enjoy best from 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $70

92 Neyers 2017 AME Neyers Ranch Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full

review see page 11. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.6% Price: $110

92 Neyers 2017 Neyers Ranch Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full


92 Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). Sweet and tangy in

cassis and dark cherry, this well-integrated wine is lengthy and relatively subdued, with an elegant structure. Dried herb, cedar and a note of tobacco round out the yin and yang of the wine. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

92 Raymond 2018 Generations Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). Brawny, fleshy and full

bodied, as well as blended with 3% Petit Verdot, this red sizzles in black cherry, cassis and brown sugar. Integrated tannins contribute support and additional power, as a length of toasted oak weighs in. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $145

92 Ruby Hill Winery 2017 Jewel Collection Series Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Liver-

more Valley). This big, complex and lavishly oaked wine offers abundant aromas of wood smoke, salt and pepper that expand to rich blackberry and black cherry on the palate accented by cedar and tobacco. Well integrated tannins and full body give the wine plenty of structure. Best through 2028. —J.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $55

91 Cakebread 2017 Benchland Select Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A 100% varietal

wine made in a full-bodied, robustly thick and substantial style, this red offers firm, ample tan-nin and oak. Mocha, black currant and black cherry are hugely impactful in flavor (within the context of

WINEMAG.COM | 41

the body weight) and buzzy in acidity on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $129

91 Cultivar 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Thick and juicy in dense black fruit,

the tannins of this wine are supple and well inte-grated, with a broad undercurrent of tingly acidity. Tree bark, tobacco and black olives dot the medium-bodied palate of firm, impressive structure. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

91 Écluse 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Intensely woody aromas of dark

cedar and mahogany morph into creamier baked fruit aromas on the nose of this bottling. The pal-ate is cohesive in flavors, with red cherry and brown spice all wrapped in firm tannins. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $49

91 Écluse 2017 Lock Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Dark-berry aromas

meet with wet rocks and turned soil on the nose of this bottling. There is a strong sense of minerality to the palate as well, with crushed rock and earthy clay flavors as well as baked blackberry and light fennel spice. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $74

91 Hearst Ranch 2018 Bunkhouse Cabernet Sau-vignon (Paso Robles). Very fresh in its lively

color and lively aromas, this bottling offers black raspberry, cocoa and mint on the juicy, accessible nose. It hits the palate very dry, with blackberry and boysenberry flavors as well as mint, vanilla and cola spice. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

91 Oakville Winery 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Waxy plum, bark and

sage ride along a throughput of thick tannin and integrated oak in this well-made, full-bodied wine. Varietally earthy and herbal, it offers good value for a high-quality experience of length and breadth. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

91 Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calis-toga). Earthy compost and dried herb notes

complement a full-bodied exploration of oak and tannin that finds integration and elegance within the powerful framework of intensity. Dark cherry, red currant and a freshening note of orange peel combine well to offer refined flavor. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $95

91 Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Thick, concentrated layers of

dark-red fruit are cradled in well-integrated oak and tannin in this mountain wine. Powerfully built, it offers opulent weight and lasting lushness, find-ing its groove on the long, clove-laden finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $108

91 Reynoso 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Bursting in classic ele-

ments of red currant and cassis, this reserve-wor-thy wine is fresh in acidity and savory in dried herb,

cedar and crushed rock. The oak and tannins are well integrated amid a full-bodied expression of concentrated length. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

91 Robert Young 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon ( Alexander Valley). Thick in earthy sage and

oak, this wine includes 12% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It was aged in French oak, 40% of it new. Full bodied and well integrated, it delivers bold flavors of waxy plum, baking spice and coffee bean. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $56

91 Ruby Hill Winery 2017 Reserve Collection C abernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley).

Packed with tasty chocolate, tobacco and baked plum flavors, this concentrated and full-bodied wine balances generous fruit flavors with supple, moderate tannins and attractive oak spices of vanilla and cedar. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $29

90 Akrasia 2015 Line of Fire Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see


90 Ancient Peaks 2017 Pearl Collection Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Santa Margarita Ranch).

Black cherry, cola nut, iron shavings and clove show on the nose of this bottling, which is a new upper tier release for this brand. There’s a strong cedar and sandalwood kick to the sip, where dark-plum, dried beef and soy flavors arise. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $70

90 Beringer 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Toasted oak and swirls of vanilla

make for a jammy rich and softly likable wine, value-minded in price and blended with small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Blueberry and blackberry flavors are supple and fleshy on the palate. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $36

90 Byron Blatty 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Los Angeles County). Dark-cherry aromas meet

with crumpled flowers and minty cocoa tones on the nose of this bottling, which includes 7% Syrah. Toast and red cherry are expected flavors on the palate, where there are also intriguing hints of red plum, tar, asphalt and charred meats. Vanilla hangs onto the finish. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $45

90 Calla Lily 2015 Audax Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From the producer’s Howell

Mountain estate, this wine bursts in juicy red fruit and baking spice. It is a lengthy and full-bodied expression of the grape blended with small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Supple tan-nins show a lasting intensity. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $120

90 Cooper-Garrod 2015 Two Vineyards Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains).

There’s a strong impact of herbs on the nose of this mountain bottling, along with iron shavings, dried shiitake, baked earth and an underlying sense of dried red fruit. Redwood spice shows on the palate, where dried cherry, leather and dusty herbs battle for attention. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $43

90 J. Wilkes 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles Highlands District). For full review

see page 17. Editors’ Choice.abv: 13.8% Price: $30

90 Knights Bridge 2017 Haggerty Cabernet Sau-vignon (Knights Valley). A spiciness of cin-

namon Red Hots heats up a core of soft red fruit in this full-bodied, small-production, 100% varietal wine. Pillowy tannins surround an earthy comple-ment of graphite, iron and rock. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $150

90 Lucas & Lewellen 2016 Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Toasty,

caramelized oak is prominent on the nose of this bottling, which also shows smoked cherry-compote and seasoning-salt scents. The oak drives the pal-ate as well, where mesquite wraps up the baked red fruit, with lingering mocha and vanilla on the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $64

90 Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Reductive

and waxy on the palate, this wine has powerful concentration and tannin weight—substantial ele-ments that make it robust and lengthy. Soft, lush and approachable, it has a wide appeal and round-ness. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $108

90 Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Perfumed

in red fruit, crushed rock and a note of sage, this big red is oak-driven and firm in lengthy, substantial tannin. Powerfully ripe and lush, it delivers velvety richness for days. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $108

90 Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Thick, concen-

trated waves of dark brooding fruit rise from this warm-climate wine, the tannins sweet and lengthy. Toasted oak adds additional texture and a lasting note of vanilla. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $95

90 Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Opening in a sweetness of oak

and tannin, this highly ripe, robust wine bursts in juicy waves of cassis and dark cherry, lengthy and rounded in undeniable richness. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $95

90 Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yount-ville). Rich and juicy with a lingering sweet-

ness of cherry, vanilla and cassis, this wine is soft and smooth, with full-bodied intensity. It delivers

BUYINGGUIDE


plenty of flavor and rounded approachability that will appeal across palates. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $125

90 Raymond 2017 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Coombsville). Tangy currant

and cranberry is complemented by earthy compost, cedar and crushed rock elements: a nice showcase for the appellation. Made in a thick, substantive style, it offers robust ripeness and hearty oak. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $88

90 Raymond 2017 Generations Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). Emphasizing a sub-

stantial body weight of red fruit, cedar and graphite, this is a hearty and considerably ripe wine, rich and deeply layered. Lingering oak adds a touch of vanilla and baking spice. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $135

90 Raymond 2016 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Herbal in style,

this aged red is leathery and powerful in oak and tannin. Black olive, nutmeg and blackberry combine around a hearty ripeness and lasting grip. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

90 Reynoso 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alex-ander Valley). Thick, dusty tannin and oak

give way to a powerful layering of rich red fruit in this full-bodied mountain-grown wine. Dark cur-rant, cherry and cassis mingle around crushed rock, iron and enduring earthiness. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Sei Querce 2016 Six Oaks Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Alexander Valley). This wine is sup-

ple and richly layered, with a viscous, roundedness that emphasizes its plush, full-bodied style. Cedar, blackberry and sweet oak make it a likable expres-sion of the grape that doesn’t overthink things, delivering lasting notes of vanilla and chocolate. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $79

90 Silver Ghost 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Deeply concentrated in

tangy black cherry and berry, this wine is perfumed and approachable, ready to enjoy and priced fairly for its fine quality. Clove, tobacco and vanilla oak round out the lengthy finish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

90 Sobon Estate 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). For full review see page 18.

abv: 13.8% Price: $18

90 Stringer 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll District). Herbal and dusty, this cooler-

climate red is 100% varietal and old school in nature. Leather, earth and a touch of barnyard give it a rustic edge around mellow layers of blueberry and plum. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $65

90 Textbook 2017 Mise En Place Cabernet Sau-vignon (Oakville). Blended with 10% Mer-

lot, this is a delightfully balanced and elegant red wine, supple in red fruit and muted tannin. The structure offers integration and lifted acidity, the wine light in savory tones of earth and cedar. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $83

89 AJA Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Malibu Coast). Jammy fruit aromas of

strawberry and plum are cut by toasted wood aro-mas on the nose of this bottling. The palate offers purple-flower flavors and hints of mint and pine, with red and black plums providing the slight tart core. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

89 Hungry Hawk 2018 Elliot Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (San Diego County). Polished

aromas of smoked cherry, cocoa and dried mint show on the nose of this bottling. It’s lightly bod-ied on the palate, where strawberry-juice, purple- flower and dried herb flavors arise. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $48

89 Knights Bridge 2017 Estate Cabernet Sau-vignon (Knights Valley). A 100% varietal

wine that spent 18 months in barrel, this shows a thickness of iron and tar and quite a bit of reduc-tion, while still youthfully unwinding in the bottle. An intensity of mineral-like rock and tannin give it a powerful imprint. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

89 One Stone 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review see page 19.

abv: 14.1% Price: $20

89 Raymond 2018 District Collection C abernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Reduced and unde-

niably earthy, this appellation wine tastes of cedar, pencil shaving and coffee. It is savory and tannic up front. Powerfully built, it ends in a strong jolt of oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

89 Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Graphite, rock and

iron elements contribute an underlying earthiness to this intensely concentrated wine—a good repre-sentation of the appellation’s warmth and richness. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $95

89 Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). This is a tannic,

thick and deeply concentrated wine, robust in dried herb, jammy black cherry and cocoa powder. It packs a memorable punch, the savory earthiness providing contrast with subdued complexity. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $88

89 Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). High-pitched in dried herb and

cedar, this wine offers substantial tannin presence and an intensity of oaky spice. The midpalate is a rich layering of cassis and black cherry with second-ary components of coconut and vanilla. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $108

89 Sean Minor 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Pleasant aromas of black cherry

and blackberry meet with hints of wood, dried herbs, asphalt and black olive on the nose of this bottling. Dark leather and roasted berry flavors show on the palate, where firm tannins lead into a tea-leaf and chocolate-brushed finish. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Broadside 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Blackberry, loamy soil, incense

and roasted meat aromas show on the nose of this bottling. It lands on the palate with clean red fruit and sharp acidity, as waves of pine and smoke ride slightly chunky tannins into the finish. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Calla Lily 2016 Ultimate Red Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). From a vineyard high

atop Howell Mountain, with small amounts of Cab-ernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this red is thick and densely built in mocha, sage and cedar. Rich layers of vanilla and milk chocolate give it a roundedness and soft, supple structure. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $65

88 Curious Beasts 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This well-balanced wine is

true to the grape variety and not nearly as out-there as its label. Good black-cherry and black-olive fla-vors and light tannins give this traditionally styled full-bodied wine a nicely filled out frame. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $14

88 Josh Cellars 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Paso Robles). Dark aromas of Morello

cherry, seared cedar and sarsaparilla show on the nose of this bottling. The palate is framed by clean, slightly tense lines of roasted black cherry and pur-ple flower, leaning a tad sweet but dried out by the tannins. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

88 KIng Chancho 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). Light red-fruit aromas meet

with darker mint, crumpled carnation and light oak on the nose of this bottling. There’s a flash of sweet-ness at the tip of the sip before more complex tones of dark cherry and charred fennel arise. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $17

88 Meadowlark 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barbara County). Slightly extracted

aromas of black plum meet with lavender, sandal-wood, soy and grilled meats on the savory nose of this bottling. Charred wood, dried fruit and beef-jerky flavors meet with a slightly bitter palo santo kick on the palate. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $35

88 Paso Hills 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Dried strawberry, light leather,

sour cranberry, dark hibiscus and a hint of tar show on the nose of this bottling. Plenty of plum and strawberry flavors show on the sip, where a dried mint balances the fresh fruits. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

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88 Porter & Plot 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Tight and brisk aromas of

black raspberry meet with strong cedar and a touch of mint on the nose of this bottling. There’s an herbal streak of oregano to the palate, where ripe berries, mushroom and tobacco flavors arise. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

88 Pure Ugly 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This Napa Valley can is simple and

approachable in blackberry and black cherry, with a mocha backdrop. Hearty and rich in style, it delivers smooth, velvety texture and likable hints of baking spice that overdelivers on its price. —V.B. abv: 15.3% Price: $15/375 ml

88 Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain District).

Earthy elements of dried herb, sage and cedar give this wine a green, herbal quality that outweighs the tangy fruit notes of currant and cranberry. The tan-nins are lengthy and help to emphasize the overall grip. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $95

88 Raymond 2018 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Iron, sage and cedar

lead the way to a midpalate of soft, supple richness and substantial ripeness in this appellation wine. Thick tannins wrap around the layered fruit, under-lining the fistfuls of power. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $108

88 Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherf ord). Softly structured, this wine

appeals in richly concentrated black cherry and plum. Supple and integrated, it has wide appeal in its approachability and lasting vanilla oak. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $95

88 Rubino Estates Winery 2017 Riserva Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore

Valley). Abundant black-cherry and blackberry fla-vors fill out this full-bodied and somewhat tannic wine. Its powerful structure supports dark-chocolate accents and a good sense of ripeness and roundness. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $29

88 Stephen Vincent 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Blended with 14% Mer-

lot and 7% Petit Verdot, this red is soft, supple and approachable—a force of tar, leather and juicy red and black cherry. The oak imparts elements of tobacco, cinnamon and coconut. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

87 1924 2019 Double Black Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Packed with

blackberry-jam and milk-chocolate flavors, this full-bodied wine is broad, rich and almost sweet on the palate. Full body and nicely integrated tannins make it mouthfilling. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

87 Appellations Cellars 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This mature and spicy scented

wine offers plenty of cinnamon, nut and vanilla aro-mas, followed by blackberry and blueberry flavors and a softly tannic texture. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $25

87 Estancia 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Dried leather, black-plum and

purple-flower aromas show on the nose of this bot-tling. There’s a large helping of dried oregano and bay leaf on the palate, which also shows black-plum and incense flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 McClain Cellars 2018 Sacred Love Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley).

Fairly extracted aromas of black plum meet with mahogany, incense and dark soil on the nose of this bottling. The blackberry-jam and licorice flavors of the palate are a bit rich. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $69

87 Raymond 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain District). This wine is waxy and

tannic on the palate, offering a sturdy, full-bodied and richly ripe expression of mountain sage, dusty rock and black cherry. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $95

87 Three Finger Jack 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). This ripe, flavorful and almost thick-

textured wine is very deep in color, packed with jammy blackberry flavors and supported by moder-ate tannins. It’s bold and full bodied. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $20

87 Trentadue La Storia 2017 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Thick and

herbal, this wine is leathery thick and brimming in black cherry and graham cracker. The oak is well integrated and adds to the weight and richness. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

87 W. Paso 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Slightly minty aromas meet with

strawberries, lilac, herbs and mushroom on the nose of this bottling. Black-plum-extract flavors meet with oregano and more mushroom on the palate. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.3% Price: $10

86 689 Cellars 2018 Lucky Draw Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This smooth and

straightforward wine offers mild blueberry and baking-spice flavors, light tannins and medium body. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 7 Deadly 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). This hyper-spicy wine is practically drip-

ping with clove, cedar, vanilla and heavily toasted bread aromas, which are followed by almost-sweet milk-chocolate and cherry flavors. It is full bodied, firmly tannic and overtly oaky. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $15

86 Bottle Jack 2016 Zayante Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). Black-

berry, black-cherry, oregano and oak aromas show on the slightly tangy nose of this bottling. It’s very grippy on the palate, where tangy, acid-drive black-plum-juice flavors meet with lots of herbal influence. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

86 CK Mondavi and Family 2018 Cabernet Sau-vignon (California). For full review see page

22. Best Buy. abv: 13.6% Price: $7

86 Kenwood 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendo-cino County-Sonoma County). This is a good,

well-made, straightforward and rather full-bodied wine that brings black olives to the aromas and black cherries to the palate. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $15

86 Raymond 2015 District Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Smooth and dusty,

this wine is on the downside of its peak, is thick in tannin and elusive in black fruit and toasted oak. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $95

86 Summerland 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). Wild herb and baked red-

fruit aromas meet with black pepper on the nose of this bottling. Flavors of pencil shavings, dried herb and sour red fruits are almost bitter on the palate. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $17

85 689 Cellars 2018 Submission Cabernet Sau-vignon (California). An aroma of f reshly

sawn wood leads to very oaky, vanilla and cedar flavors in this heavily spiced, medium-bodied wine. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

85 Hobo 2018 The Way Back Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (California). This sturdy, firm-tex-

tured, moderately tannic wine offers low-key fruit flavors dominated by slightly earthy, iron and black olive notes. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $18

CABERNET FRANC

95 Justice 2018 Frontier Justice Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Val-

ley). For full review see page 4. abv: 15.9% Price: $225

95 Lieu Dit 2019 Cabernet Franc (Santa Ynez Valley). It would be easy to mistake this

herbally complex, texturally taut and tantalizingly fresh Cabernet Franc for a Loire Valley bottling, which is the inspiration. Aromas of just-ripe boy-senberry, green tobacco and wet rocks lead into a tightly woven palate full of crunchy cranberry,

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chaparral shrubs and lingering carnation. Beware: bottle empties easily. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $30

94 Jax 2018 4 Barrels Cabernet Franc (Calis-toga). For full review see page 6.

abv: 14.9% Price: $60

94 Sol Rouge 2016 Cabernet Franc (Red Hills). Great complexity, luscious fruit flavors and

a firm but polished texture give this full-bodied wine everything it needs for enjoyment now and for several years to come. Black cherries, black olives, tobacco and clove mingle on a fabric of fine-grained tannins for a luxurious and savory palate. Best through 2026. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

93 Lang & Reed 2010 Franc de Pied Cabernet Franc (Lake County). This tightly woven

wine is on the way to maturity but still holding its abundant black-cherry, black- pepper and olive fla-vors firmly in masses of fine-grained tannins. Light toasted oak and mint aromas segue into the savory, deep fruit flavors and linger on the finish. It’s a library release made from ungrafted, high-elevation vines. Best from 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

92 Cooper-Garrod 2017 Francville Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Santa Cruz Mountains). The

nose on this bottling smells of cherry-soaked pork roasted with mushrooms over a smoldering oak fire. The palate aligns with that, offering shiitake, dried cherry and beefy charcuterie flavors—an altogether savory and well-integrated expression. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

92 Crystal Basin Cellars 2017 Reserve Cabernet Franc (El Dorado). This deep and robust

wine combines power with complexity, offering fra-grant black-currant and tobacco aromas, and rich blackberry flavors with a hint of dark chocolate. Firm, fine-grained tannins give it a lip-smacking texture that bodes well for aging. Best from 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $32

91 Brick Barn 2017 Reserve Cabernet Franc ( Santa Ynez Valley). This is a slightly denser

take on the grape, beginning with smoke, baked cherry, sarsaparilla and vanilla cream on the nose, with a crushed graphite minerality lingering in the backdrop. Fairly tight tannins wrap up the sip, where smoked cherry, red plum, marjoram and bay leaf make for a complex expression. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

90 Darioush 2018 Cabernet Franc (Mount Veeder). This is juicy and substantial red

wine, the tannins thick and foundational. Oak, dried herb and richly layered jolts of dark cherry and cas-sis dominate on a long, concentrated palate. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $80

90 Wood Family Vineyards 2018 Cabernet Franc (Livermore Valley). Rose-petal aromas and

gushing black-fruit flavors give a lot of charm to this full-bodied but fresh-feeling wine. It tastes pure and uncomplicated, simply full of enjoyment. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $34

87 Fasi Estate 2019 Cabernet Franc (Madera County). This smooth and easygoing wine

offers dried cranberry aromas, red-currant flavors and moderate tannins that beef up the texture slightly. Light butter and vanilla notes add an oaky flair. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

87 Oakville East 2017 Franc ’N Stern Cabernet Franc (Oakville). Sage, dried herb and pencil

shavings accent a tannic and substantial palate of ripeness and power in this earthy, full-bodied wine. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $100

85 Park Avenue 2017 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). This wine is somewhat dull on the

palate, showing ripe, simple layers of red fruit and dried herb. The tannins are pushy. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

MERLOT

93 Paradise Springs 2018 F’ing Merlot (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This antidote to

the Sideways treatment of Merlot makes a strong defense for the grape. Dark-cherry and dark-choc-olate aromas are lifted by hints of oak on the nose. Grippy tannins frame the sip, where cedar, dark berry and cherry and lingering spice notes make for a very serious expression. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

93 Silenus 2017 Merlot (Oak Knoll District). For full review see page 9.

abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Four Lanterns 2017 Reserva Merlot (Temple-ton Gap District). This is a very lively and

juicy take on Merlot, starting with fruity straw-berry aromas that are lifted by hints of gingerbread and star anise spices. It’s soft and suave on the sip, where baked and fresh strawberry flavors pop out above the light yet lingering vanilla elements. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $92

87 CK Mondavi and Family 2017 Merlot (Califor-nia). For full review see page 22. Best Buy.

abv: 13.6% Price: $7

87 Sunstone 2018 Reserve Merlot (Santa Ynez Valley). There’s a strong degree of extraction,

ripeness and wood throughout this bottling. The nose begins with mashed berry, caramel and a Scotch-like wood spice, while the palate recalls Bourbon, with its caramel and baked fruitcake flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $65

86 Kendall-Jackson 2017 Vintner’s Reserve Merlot (Sonoma County). Aged in both

French and American oak, this approachable red is earthy and herbal, with full-bodied fruit concentra-tion. The flavors range from black currant to plum and nutmeg, finishing robustly in oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

84 Appellations Cellars 2016 Cellar Reserve Merlot (Lodi). This mature, mellow and full-

bodied wine is tasty and smooth, but teetering on the edge of oxidation. Best to enjoy its cedar, cinna-mon, baked earth and nut flavors ASAP. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $25

83 Pacific Redwood 2019 Merlot (North Coast). Bold, tobacco aromas and veggie flavors give

this rustic wine something to savor before a some-what bitter, drying finish. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $15

MALBEC

92 Opaque 2018 Malbec (Paso Robles). For full review see page 11.

abv: 14.9% Price: $30

91 Saracina 2018 Skid Row Malbec (Mendocino County). For full review see page 15.

abv: 14.2% Price: $30

90 Hungry Hawk 2017 Estate Reserve Malbec (San Diego County). Dark plum, heavy chai

spice and also crisper red fruits pop on the nose of this agile bottling. The palate is crisp and refresh-ing, offering candied cherry and red currant as well as baking spice and a searing acidity. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $54

90 McClain Cellars 2018 Covent Garden Reserve Malbec (Santa Ynez Valley). Cocoa and car-

amel scents meet with baked black cherry, licorice, oak and cola ice cream floats on the nose of this bot-tling. It’s thick and hearty on the palate, where bold smoke, baking-spice and rich red-fruit flavors align. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $69

90 Wood Family Vineyards 2018 Malbec (Liver-more Valley). This is a well-balanced, mod-

erately tannic wine with plenty of juicy cherry and raspberry flavors under a light coating of cinnamon and nutmeg aromas. It’s medium to full bodied and has a touch of red pepper to add extra spice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

89 Byron Blatty 2018 Pragmatic Malbec (Los Angeles County). Ripe blackberry-jam aro-

mas meet with wild herbs of fennel and tarragon on the nose of this bottling, which includes 5% Petite Sirah. There is a wild-chaparral kick to the sip, which is thick with lush blackberry and black-cherry flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

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SYRAH

97 Clos Solène 2018 Cuvée Jean Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). So intensely dark that it’s

almost opaque in the glass, this bottling from the famed Z and X blocks of Bien Nacido Vineyard is extremely polished on the seductive nose, where black currant, singed violet, charred lamb and subtle waves of earth and herb converge. Suave, silky tan-nins frame the sip, where the dark-berry and vio-let flavors meet with singed game and pepper dust. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $98

97 Clos Solène 2018 Hommage a Nos Pairs Reserve Syrah (Paso Robles). This is an epic

bottling, overloaded with lush layers of umami and expertly captured fruit. Aromas of baked black plum, currant, cappuccino, dark chocolate and black pepper play on the nose. Framed by firm yet forgiv-ing tannins, the palate combines dry elderberry and prune flavors with charred lamb and beef, asphalt and cracked pepper. This is powerfully elegant, with 3% Viognier and 2% Grenache. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $98

96 Epoch 2017 Authenticity Syrah (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). This showcase of the

historic Paderewski property, which includes 6% Mourvèdre and 2% Viognier, begins with expertly captured aromas of black current, dark berry, mocha, cappuccino cream and hot vanilla cake. Elegant lay-ers of violet, lilac and acai mesh into roasted cocoa on the palate, where polished tannins keep the waves of flavor and texture coming. —M.K. abv: 15.8% Price: $85

95 Epoch 2017 Block B Syrah (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). From the historic

Paderewski Vineyard, this complex bottling begins with aromas of crumpled lavender, charred lamb, tangy elderberry jam and savory white pepper, sur-rounding a rich black-currant streak at the core. The charred meat and deep, dark fruit character rolls through the palate, where elegant spices are sure to grow more intriguing with time. Drink now through 2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $95

95 Justin 2016 Focus Syrah (Paso Robles). For full review see page 4.

abv: 16% Price: $110

95 Paradise Springs 2018 Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). A blend of the 470, 174 and Estrella clones,

this is an excellent show of cool-climate Syrah, beginning with the tart black-plum, lavender, charred and raw meat and cracked pepper aromas on the nose. Piquant purple flower and tart plum flavors pop on the palate, where white pepper and game provide the savory touchstones. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $45

95 Piedrasassi 2018 Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). Piquant, tart and

snappy aromas of underripe berries and plums meet

with lavender and crumpled dahlia on the nose of this bottling. The white-pepper, wild-thyme and bay leaf flavors are focused and pure on the palate, where black-plum and more lavender tones make for a fresh, lightly bodied and zesty expression. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $50

94 Écluse 2018 Syrah (Paso Robles). Lavish aromas of cassis, baked berry, caramel,

vanilla cream and cracked pepper make for a very heady, impressive nose on this bottling. Smooth tannins start the sip before standing up to be more firm, as rich, thick flavors of currant and baking spice get washed by acid into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $44

94 Montemar 2015 McGinley Vineyard Syrah (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Brooding

aromas of dark plum, roasted fig, asphalt and black pepper are deep, rich and savory on the nose of this bottling. Tightly woven tannins frame the generous black-currant, cracked pepper, espresso and violet flavors of the acid-boosted sip. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

94 Top 2017 Exert Syrah (Paso Robles). Refreshing and lively yet savory in all the

right ways, this bottling offers black-currant, violet, white-pepper and charred lamb aromas on the nose. Crisp acidity frames the sip, where acai and other purple-fruit flavors mix with lavender, dark pepper and star anise spices. —M.K. abv: 15.4% Price: $68

93 Copia 2018 The Source Syrah (Central Coast). Cocoa dust, hints of caramel and lush black

cherry meet with hints of tar and asphalt on the nose of this bottling, which includes 3% Grenache. Soft, polished tannins frame the smoky cassis and black-plum core of the sip, with more savory notes of roasted fig on the fringes. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $58

93 Crystal Basin Cellars 2017 Reserve Syrah (El Dorado). Powerful flavors of charcoal, black

pepper, wood smoke and coffee bean crowd around a core of jazzy, ripe and meaty black-fruit flavors for a great display of the complexity that Syrah can offer. Full body and moderate tannins are balanced by fresh acidity, making it a good candidate for mid-term aging. Best from 2023. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $30

93 Fasi Estate 2019 Private Reserve Estate Grown Syrah (Madera). Full bodied and

firmly structured with tannins, this wine from an under-the-radar producer shows abundant wild, roasted, gamy and singed-herb flavors. It’s deeply savory, smoky and yet offers a great foundation of blueberry and blackberry underneath. Best from 2023. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $38

92 McClain Cellars 2018 Sofia’s Star Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Toasty aromas of cara-

melized black plums and blackberry jam meet with a wet soil minerality on the nose of this bottling.

It’s full flavored on the palate, where espresso-bean, grilled berry and charred plum elements are wrapped in heavy woodsmoke. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $52

91 Montemar 2015 Watch Hill Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Baked black-cur-

rant, woodsmoke, raspberry jam and smoked beef aromas show on the nose of this bottling. There’s a tarragon and fennel combination on the palate that gives depth to the black-plum, dried berry and light cocoa flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $40

91 San Simeon 2019 Syrah (Paso Robles). This very dark bottling begins with powerful aro-

mas of baked black currant, rich cocoa sauce and Dr Pepper-like spices on the nose. The palate is deep in purple fruits and flowers, with earthy stone, cap-puccino and charred meat flavors also popping up. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 One Leaf 2018 Shiraz (California). This robust and mouthcoating wine offers gen-

erous black fruits, hints of white and black pepper and a firm but rich texture. It flirts with a gamy, earthy character for added complexity that’s rare in a wine this affordable. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

89 Cooper-Garrod 2015 Test Pilot F-104 Starfighter Syrah (Santa Cruz Mountains).

Roasted coffee, black-plum-extract and fig aromas show on the nose of this bottling, which includes 9% Viognier. The palate is medium to lighter bod-ied, with tangy acidity and taut tannins revealing wild plum, dried berry and clay flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $41

89 Skinner 2018 Syrah (El Dorado). Well balanced and elegant, this medium-bodied

wine blends tasty but not showy cherry, black-and blackberry flavors on light tannins. It’s easy to sip and appreciate and will be equally easy to pair with food. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

89 Thacher 2017 Solo Concert Coastview Vine-yard Syrah (Monterey). Blackberry-jam,

muddled prune and fruitcake aromas show on the nose of this bottling from a high-elevation vineyard east of Salinas. Savory and rich flavors of roasted fig and plum meet with fudge and nutmeg on the palate. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $52

88 Meadowlark 2016 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Cedar and dark-plum aromas meet

with crumpled herbs and a hint of charred game on the nose of this bottling. There are hints of asphalt and black pepper on the palate, but it’s the woody, roasted plum element that is more dominant. —M.K. abv: 16% Price: $30

88 Santa Barbara Winery 2017 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Fresh black-currant and

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black-plum-extract aromas show on the nose of this bottling, as do hints of purple flowers. It’s lightly bodied on the sip, with light lavender touches, mak-ing for an easy quaff. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $22

88 Vie Winery 2017 Les Amours Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Candied yet sour black-

berry aromas are a bit tangy on the nose of this bot-tling, and are also lifted by hints of violet. The palate is slightly sour but smoothed out with boysenberry, aged meat, white-pepper and licorice flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $47

88 Vie Winery 2017 White Hawk Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Black-plum skins,

lavender and a hint of balsamic berries show on the nose of this bottling. The palate is tart and tangy with black plum, as complexity comes through with hints of thyme and black pepper. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $49

87 Lafond 2017 Lafond Vineyard Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). Slightly overextracted aromas

of blackberry paste, raisin and root beer show on the nose of this bottling. It’s similar on the palate, where those extract fruit tones meet with a crushed rock minerality. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $24

86 Jigar 2017 Tollini Vineyard Syrah (Redwood Valley). Superripe and chocolaty in flavor,

this full-bodied and smooth-textured wine offers raisin and dried plum notes topped with a dusty, sunbaked character. —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $30

85 Meadowlark 2012 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). There’s still a bountiful rush of

acidity on this nearly decade-old bottle, yet the age is showing in other ways. Aromas of very ripe yet leathery caramelized berry lead into a smoky, charred berry palate, with slightly bitter tannins. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $35

85 Meadowlark 2009 Estate Syrah (Santa Bar-bara County). Dried berries and light leather

aromas show on the nose of this decade-old bottling. The palate is also leathery, with a hint of cracked pepper and woody palo santo flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.75% Price: $35

84 Donkey & Goat 2019 GiGi Sans Soufre Syrah (El Dorado). This natural-style, low-alcohol

wine has a funky, doughy, burnt-candy aroma and rather severe mouthfeel that holds cherry and cran-berry flavors very tightly. It deserves a try, though, because it’s made without added sulfites and may work out with time and the right, rich pairing. —J.G. abv: 11.7% Price: $32

GRENACHE

94 Lumen 2019 Grenache (Santa Barbara County). Lane Tanner, the first independent

female winemaker in Santa Barbara County history, is applying her Pinot Noir acumen to Grenache, with great results. This bright and fresh bottling, from the biodynamic grapes at Martian Ranch, begins with beautiful aromas of raspberry, hibiscus and rose petal on the nose before the tightly woven yet generously flavorful palate unleashes waves of plum, berry and peppery herbs. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

92 Buttonwood 2016 Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). Though a half-decade old, this wine

remains quite lively. Aromas of baked strawberry, nutmeg and gingerbread lead into a palate of roasted cherry, blistered plum caramel and light mint, prov-ing lush in texture yet with a buoyant acidity. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

92 Cavaletti 2018 The 109 Mile Grenache (Los Angeles County). An ambitious project

tying disparate Los Angeles County vineyards into one bottling, this wine, which includes 4% Mour-vèdre, begins with aromas of salted meats, pome-granate paste, roasted strawberry and light smoke. The palate packs the variety’s typical red-fruit and gingerbread-spice flavors with hints of caramel and more smoke, lingering deep into the finish. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $38

92 Donkey & Goat 2019 Grenache Noir (El Dorado). Great balance, a lively texture and

complex flavors all combine to make this wine out-standing. It blends good acidity and light tannins to lift rich plum, apricot and cherry flavors on a medium body. —J.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $32

91 Bokisch 2017 Estate Grown Terra Alta Vine-yard Garnacha (Clements Hills). Powerful but

not too tannic, this ripe and round wine matches light oak spices of cinnamon and toast with gener-ous black-plum and mulled cherry flavors. It’s well balanced and easy to enjoy. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $27

91 Copia 2018 The Story Grenache (Edna V alley). This is a dark and intense expression of

Grenache, starting with boysenberry fruit and warm licorice spice. The roasted black-plum flavor of the palate is layered with oak smoke, star anise and gin-gersnaps, with brisk acidity and a tense structure holding up the finish. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $48

91 Montemar 2015 Watch Hill Vineyard Grenache (Santa Barbara County). Dried red cherry,

star anise, mace, light pine and smoke aromas emerge on the nose of this bottling. There are deli-cious layers of clove, star anise and dried cherry on the palate, which remains fresh despite five years of age. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

90 Bee Hunter 2015 Eagle Point Ranch Grenache (Mendocino). This smooth, mature wine

exudes earthy, leathery, sandalwood aromas, flavors of dried fruits and toasted nuts and has a full body but rather light tannins. It’s easy to love for its mel-low complexity and soothing mouthfeel. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $42

90 Wood Family Vineyards 2018 Grenache (Livermore Valley). This rich, broad and

relaxed wine floods the taste buds with warm plum, ripe cherry and light spices of cinnamon and orange peel. It’s full bodied and light in tannins. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $32

89 Iron Hub 2017 Grenache (Amador County). An aromatic coating of cinnamon and tama-

rind wraps around rather crisp, tangy, sour-cherry and black-plum flavors in this full-bodied, stylistic and well-balanced wine. Light tannins and good acidity keep it dry and fresh. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $27

88 Écluse 2018 Lock Vineyard Winemaker Series Grenache (Paso Robles). Quite ripe and

extracted on the nose, this bottling begins with baked blackberry, prune, cola and root-beer aro-mas. The richness works better on the palate, where thick fruitcake and raisin flavors lead into a Bour-bon-like finish. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $48

MOURVÈDRE

94 Edio 2019 Estate Blend Mourvèdre ( Sierra Foothills). This deeply concentrated and

focused wine from David Girard Vineyards wraps a blanket of fine-grained tannins around a core of black-currant, black-cherry and juicy plum flavors. Built for at least mid-term aging, it is full bodied but balanced and tempting to drink but it is hold-ing back its best stuff until 2023 and beyond. —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

93 Crystal Basin Cellars 2017 Reserve Mourvèdre (El Dorado). This full-bodied wine captures

all the meaty, earthy, nutty character of this Rhône varietal, backing those savory elements with rich plum and tangy vermouth notes. Its color is slightly tawny (not too dark) and telegraphs that this mem-orable wine is not a commercial, color-adjusted pour. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $30

88 Donkey & Goat 2019 Twinkle Mourvèdre (El Dorado). A lively, peppery character gives

this light-bodied wine a fresh, brash feel while vivid plum-skin and cranberry flavors offer plenty of refreshment. It seems primed for bistro food like steak frites. —J.G. abv: 11.3% Price: $28

88 Montemar 2015 Thompson Vineyard Mourvèdre (Santa Barbara County). A bit

thin on the nose, this bottling slowly lets aromas of black raspberry, carnation and fennel pollen to

WINEMAG.COM | 47

emerge. The light flavors of red currant and pome-granate are amped up by rust and licorice. —M.K. abv: 12.1% Price: $38

PETITE SIRAH

96 Theopolis 2018 Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Yorkville Highlands). For full review see

page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

94 Rubino Estates Winery 2017 Riserva Collec-tion Petite Sirah (Livermore Valley). Entic-

ing aromas of singed rosemary and dark chocolate lead to intense flavors of cooked blackberries, sau-téed sage and black pepper on a texture of rich, fine-grained tannins. Great depth and an amazing, palate-saturating blend of fruitiness and savoriness make this wine well worth seeking out. Best through 2027. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $29

94 Sol Rouge 2017 Petite Sirah (Lake County). Monumental concentration and great struc-

ture set up this full-bodied, tannin-laced wine for a long window of drinkability. A mélange of iron, black-pepper, grilled beef and blackberry flavors sat-urate the palate and linger a long time on the finish. Best from 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

93 Donati Family Vineyard 2018 Family Reserve Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Dark in the glass,

this bottling offers deep aromas of black currant and blackberry, as well as a slightly savory streak involv-ing black pepper and charred meats. The palate is tightly woven for such a big wine, offering fresh black fruits plus baking spice, char and vanilla bean. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

92 LangeTwins 2018 Diablo Vineyard Petite Sirah (Clarksburg). For full review see page

11. Cellar Selection. abv: 15% Price: $32

92 Terra d’Oro 2018 Petite Sirah (Amador County). For full review see page 12. Editors’

Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

91 Bogle 2018 Petite Sirah (California). For full review see page 19. Best Buy.

abv: 14.5% Price: $12

91 Hearst Ranch 2018 The Pergola Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Toasty aromas of blackberry

jam, vanilla and warm pie crust make for a very inviting, oak-kissed nose on this bottling. The oak is prominent, while welcomed on the palate, where flavors of butterscotch and cappuccino are drizzled with blackberry compote. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

90 Meyer Family Cellars 2016 Petite Sirah (Yor-kville Highlands). The dark fruit and spice

flavors of this intensely packed wine are held tightly by firm tannins, indicating it may be decades before it opens up for greater enjoyment. A deep dark color leads to espresso, clove, graphite and 90% cacao chocolate on a full body. Best from 2028. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

90 Vahali 2018 Jauhar Estate Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Black-currant, baked plum-cake,

Dr Pepper and gingerbread aromas make for a very rich and spicy nose on this bottling. The palate offers clean, inviting flavors of elderflower and cas-sis. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $58

89 Fasi Estate 2019 Petite Sirah (Madera County). Full bodied and firmly tannic,

this wine offers salt-and-pepper aromas and beefy blackberry, woodsmoke and black-pepper flavors that are nicely concentrated and lingering. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

88 Vinum Cellars 2017 Pets Petite Sirah (Clarks-burg). This robust and smoky wine offers

black-pepper and grilled beef aromas, rich black-berry and woodsmoke flavors and a firm, moder-ately tannic texture. It’s fun and rowdy for drinking around a firepit with fellow carnivores. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

84 Appellations Cellars 2017 Petite Sirah (Cali-fornia). This wine has potent black-fruit

flavors, light to medium body and the usual firm tannins. The aroma is doughy and reduced while the texture feels a bit spritzy, so it’s a mixed bag. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $25

SANGIOVESE

93 Bottle Jack 2017 Machado Creek Vineyard Sangiovese (Santa Clara Valley). Dark-berry

aromas are wrapped in leather, oregano and a bit of game on the nose of this bottling. Flashes of black plum and berry meet with pine resin, cedar and forest-floor elements on the sip, where the acid grows steadily and tannins remains firm. Drink now through 2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

88 Castello di Amorosa 2016 Voyager Vineyard Sangiovese (Napa Valley). With 2% Merlot,

this wine is thick and meaty in baked plum and strawberry. A juicy, vibrant midpalate helps to tem-per the earthy rusticity and dusty tannin. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

88 Oak Mountain 2017 Sangiovese (Temecula Valley). There’s an array of unique quali-

ties to the nose of this bottling, where aromas of muddled strawberry, light licorice, wet soil and dusty herbs arise. The palate is loaded with mace and nutmeg spice, which lifts the dried cranberry and wet clay core. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $41

87 Trentadue 2018 Shoestring Vineyard Estate Sangiovese (Alexander Valley). Reduced and

waxy, with an enduring earthiness, this red is robust in oak and body weight, with brawny black fruit at its core. Baked plum and tobacco play around dry, supple tannins that add length. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

86 Frey 2018 Organic Sangiovese (Mendocino). This medium- to full-bodied wine shows

smoky, earthy aromas and a good blackberry-rasp-berry core flanked by moderate tannins. It’s on the hearty, rustic side of the spectrum. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

86 Imagery 2017 Sangiovese (Sonoma County). Thick tannins gird a palate of dried herb,

cedar and oak in this earthy, rustic wine, dipped in lavender and a hint of black licorice. The oak is chewy and pronounced. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $42

85 Pedroncelli 2018 Alto Vineyards Sangiovese (Dry Creek Valley). Thick and tannic, this

substantial red is given 10 months in American oak, the barrels neutral. Meaty and rustic, it offers notes of cranberry, plum and tobacco. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $18

BARBERA

91 Preston 2018 Barbera (Dry Creek Valley). With a fruity nose of blackberry and black licorice,

this light, refined and food-friendly wine is textured dust and sage. Vibrant acidity keeps it lively and lengthy. It was made from organically grown grapes. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $32

90 Bella Grace 2018 Barbera (Amador County). This full-bodied wine goes deep and wide,

offering concentrated and fairly complex flavors carried on a more generous texture than usual. It is packed with red and black cherries, some ripe plums and subtle cinnamon and tamarind flavors. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $34

88 Sobon Estate 2018 Barbera (Amador C ounty). This is a versatile, well-balanced wine that

will pair with a wide variety of foods. It’s rather trim in texture, lightly tannic and backed by good acidity supporting sour-cherry and black-cherry flavors. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $17

88 William Gunn 2016 Barbera (Sierra Foot-hills). Bright cherry and raspberry aromas

are followed by a deeper red-fruit character on the palate, and bolstered by lively acidity for a fresh, tangy texture. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $22

BUYINGGUIDE


ZINFANDEL

94 Gary Farrell 2017 Grist Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page

6. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

93 Sobon Estate 2018 Cougar Hill Zinfandel (Amador County). For full review see page 9.


93 V. Sattui 2018 Duarte Vineyard Zinfandel (Contra Costa County). Quite deep and con-

centrated, this luxuriously ripe wine overflows with blackberry-jam and black-pepper flavors on a full body that is laced with moderate tannins. Hints of wood char and cedar add a spicy, oaky touch that’s well integrated. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $36

92 Beauregard 2018 Beauregard Ranch Zinfandel (Santa Cruz Mountains). Ryan Beauregard is

showing smart restraint in his effort to tame and direct this mountain-grown Zinfandel. Aromas of berry jam, redwood and charcuterie are complex and savory on the nose. The lightly bodied palate offers crunchy cranberry, light pomegranate, hints of baked earth and crumpled herbs. There’s a toasty tone to the finish. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $35

92 Bee Hunter 2016 Fashauer Vineyard Zinfandel (Anderson Valley). Packed with vibrant red-

cherry and raspberry flavors, this technically full-bodied wine feels fresh and lively in texture and has mild tannins that give a bit of grip. Its appetizing balance was probably enhanced by the Anderson Valley’s cool climate. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $42

92 Bella Grace 2018 Zinfandel (Amador County). This hearty, almost meaty, wine offers bold

blackberry and light woodsmoke flavors on a firm texture of tannins and good acidity. It has chewy, grippy mouthfeel and the concentrated fruit flavors to match that structure. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $20

92 Ruby Hill Winery 2017 Peacock Patch Reserve Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). Enticing spices

and luscious, ripe fruit flavors make a great combi-nation in this lushly textured full-bodied wine. Aro-matic notes of vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg com-plement palate impressions of warm, sun ripened blackberries and raspberries. —J.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $29

92 Sobon Estate 2018 Rocky Top Zinfandel (Amador County). For full review see page


92 Sobon Estate 2018 Zinfandel (Fiddletown). For full review see page 12.

abv: 15.5% Price: $22

92 The Prisoner 2018 Saldo Zinfandel (Califor-nia). This posh, smooth and layered wine is

well packed with blackberry and blueberry flavors and sprinkled with black and white pepper. A very full body and velvety tannins give it a broad, mouth-coating texture that helps carry all that tasty fruit flavor through the finish. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $32

91 Cavaletti 2019 4th and Haven Zinfandel ( Cucamonga Valley). Ripe and accessible

aromas of red currant, strawberry, loamy soil and sweet flowers show on the nose of this bottling from a region that once grew the most grapes in Califor-nia. Cedar and sandalwood flavors frame the jammy, sappy palate, where blackberry and black-plum fla-vors meet with an herbal hint of pine needle and finish on a caramel tone. —M.K. abv: 16.6% Price: $42

91 Opaque 2018 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Black-berry, cherry, soy and hints of damp oak

show on the lush nose of this bottling. Soft tannins make for a voluptuous palate, where roasted black cherry and smoky oak leads to a familiar caramel-laced finished. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $30

91 Sidebar 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel (Mokelumne River). This smoky, spicy wine wraps potent

blackberry flavors around accents of black pepper, beef and woodsmoke for a dark and delicious effect. It is full-bodied, moderately tannic and nicely con-centrated. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Boekenoogen 2018 Bell Ranch Vineyard Zinfandel (Monterey). This is a ripe, tradi-

tional Zinfandel in all its jammy glory. Aromas of strawberry sorbet and blackberry syrup lead into a fresh, juicy palate of grape Jolly Rancher and baking spice, proving playful and joyous to sip. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $42

90 Oak Farm 2019 Estate Grown Primitivo (Lodi). For full review see page 18.

abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Paul Dolan 2019 Made with Organic Grapes Zinfandel (Mendocino County). For full


90 Steele 2017 Catfish Vineyard Zinfandel (Lake County). This hearty wine shapes

blackberry and black-pepper flavors with moderate tannins and a full body that are attractively mouth-filling. Hints of vanilla, clove and cedar add extra interest and a lingering finish. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

90 Whipsmart Wine Company 2018 Mossy Block Ancient Vines Zinfandel (Russian

River Valley). Pruney, old-vine red fruit dominates in this bold, brawny wine, which is dense and sub-stantial on the palate. From a site planted in 1885 it shows Old World ruggedness and a hint of potpourri

amidst the leathery texture and lasting baking spice. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $30

89 Appellations Cellars 2017 Survivor Old Vine Westwind Vineyard Zinfandel (Lodi). Deep

blackberry and black-olive flavors are tinged with mint and licorice in this full-bodied, rich-textured wine. It’s generous and mouthfilling, showing elevated alcohol and not too much tannin. —J.G. abv: 16.1% Price: $38

89 Écluse 2018 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Candied, slightly extracted aromas of black

plum and blackberry are a touch tangy on the nose of this bottling. The palate is snappy with fresh boysenberry and light licorice flavors, as tart acidity carries into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $44

88 Pedroncelli 2018 Mother Clone Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Herbal and peppery, this

wine includes 10% Petite Sirah. Thick and jammy layers of blackberry provide richness along a supple palate of weight and breadth, finishing in vanilla-laced oak. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $19

88 Portalupi 2018 Dolinsek Ranch Old Vine Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Tasting of

chocolate-covered espresso bean and dark cherry and currant, this wine is thick and supple, with substantial ripeness. Jammy flavors meet a foun-dation of toasted oak and baking spice, finishing earthy and rustic. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $52

87 Frey 2019 Organic Zinfandel (Mendocino). Concentrated in flavor and firmly tannic in

texture, this full-bodied wine offers smoky, tarry aromas, potent blackberry flavors and accents of grilled herbs. No sulfites added. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Oak Mountain 2016 Zinfandel (Temecula V alley). Extracted and smoky aromas of

hickory, baked black plum, caramel and fudge con-verge on the oaky nose of this bottling. The palate is coated in oak as well, but touches of baked plum, nutmeg, clove and caramel also show. —M.K. abv: 16.4% Price: $34

87 Preston 2017 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). With accents of leather, this red is thick in

dense black fruit, iron and a note of reduction. Made from certified-organic grapes, it contains small amounts of Mourvèdre and Petite Sirah. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $38

87 ZinPhomaniac 2019 Old Vines Zinfandel (Lodi). This exuberant and fruity wine over-

flows with raspberry and strawberry flavors and offers subtle salty, toasty accents. Although full bodied, it’s fairly soft in texture and leaves a sugary impression on the finish. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $18

WINEMAG.COM | 49

86 Acre 2018 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). This is an intensely built, ripe and robust red

wine, aged in both European and American oak. Smoked meats, coffee grounds and woody cedar combine around a supple, richly layered midpalate that finishes smooth and simple. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $32

86 Shenandoah Vineyards 2018 Special R eserve Zinfandel (Amador County). Superripe and

somewhat sweet flavors of dried fruit give this wine a Port-like expression. It is quite full bodied and packed with raisin and prune notes. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

84 Frey 2019 Biodynamic Zinfandel ( Mendocino). This full-bodied wine wraps smoky, dark-

berry flavors in firm tannins that give it a drying mouthfeel. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $20

84 The Messenger 2018 28 Zinfandel (Moon Mountain District Sonoma County). Vegan

and reductive, this wine is gargantuan in size and ripeness, with earthy iron and garrigue notes accenting a core of jammy, over-the-top blackberry flavor. —V.B. abv: 15.7% Price: $25

83 Appellations Cellars 2017 Ancestor Reserve Zinfandel (Lodi). Tasting mature and mel-

low, the jammy fruit flavors in this full-bodied wine are giving way to tired balsamic notes. It’s smooth, not very tannic and ready to drink. —J.G. abv: 15.12% Price: $65

RED BLENDS

96 Clos Solène 2018 Harmonie (Paso Robles). Very dark in the glass and intense on the

nose, this blend of 70% Grenache, 16% Syrah and 14% Mourvèdre begins with focused aromas of black raspberry, dark plum and penetrating spices, proving very rich yet not overextracted. Grippy tan-nins and balanced acidity frame the sip, which con-tinues the intensity, delivering dark-red and purple fruit with a light dusting of baking spice. Drink now through 2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $88

95 Benom 2018 Muze (Paso Robles). Dark black-currant and baking-spice aromas float

atop a subtle sense of rugged charred meat and tar on the compelling nose of this blend of 50% Cab-ernet Sauvignon, 46% Mourvèdre and 4% Syrah. Tar and charcoal flavors show on the sip alongside dark-purple fruits and flowers, with a touch of dried herbs. Still young, but it will age gracefully. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $65

95 Clos Solène 2018 Fleur de Solene (Paso Robles). Dark aromas of charred black cur-

rant and black plums meet with pepper dust, game and charcoal on the nose of this blend of 53% Syrah, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Grenache. These young wines need plenty of time to open up, but

once this does, there are flavors of rich red fruits, peppery spices and dark chocolate that shifts from slightly bitter to comforting by the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $73

95 Epoch 2017 Veracity (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). Quite dark in the glass, this

blend of 47% Mourvèdre, 34% Grenache and 19% Syrah offers seared plum, purple flower and richly layered spice aromas on the nose. The palate is a lesson in cohesion, with well-integrated waves of boysenberry, black cherry, purple flowers and lico-rice, framed by polished tannins and fresh acidity. —M.K. abv: 15.4% Price: $70

95 Justin 2016 Isosceles Reserve (Paso Robles). For full review see page 4.

abv: 15.5% Price: $115

94 Benom 2018 Hoc (Paso Robles). It must be challenging to make nontraditional red

blends that stand out in a lineup, but the French-born Fabre brothers are doing just that. This blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Syrah and 17% Carignan starts with aromas of oregano, marjoram, baked earth and black plums. The palate picks up the herbal tones, then delivers dark-chocolate, smoked beef and black-currant flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $68

94 Paradise Springs 2018 The Roshi ( California). There’s a lovely integration of purple flow-

ers, fresh blackberry and black plum on the nose of this blend of 39% Petit Verdot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Franc. A touch of oaky wood spice shows on the palate, where just-right tannins frame rich fruit flavors that are lifted by star anise and licorice spices. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

94 Rangeland 2016 The Watershed (Adelaida District). Concentrated black-cherry- cordial

aromas meet with toasty mahogany, soy and dried mushroom aromas on the intense nose of this blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot and 10% Cabernet Franc. There’s a firm density to the palate, where suave tannins wrap up cocoa, black-plum and purple-flower flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

93 Ancient Peaks 2017 Oyster Ridge (Santa Mar-garita Ranch). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.5% Price: $60

93 Aver Family Vineyards 2017 Faith (Santa Clara Valley). Fresh aromas of cassis, lico-

rice, cocoa and a hint of toasted wood show on the nose of this blend of 53% Petite Sirah, 44% Syrah, 2% Mourvèdre and 1% Grenache. Firm tannins present dark-fruit flavors along with cocoa and cof-fee cream, yet it’s the persistent acidity that keeps the wine elegant, all the way through the lavender-kissed finish. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $48

93 Carol Shelton 2018 Coquille Rouge (Central Coast). For full review see page 8. Editors’


93 Copia 2018 The Cure (Central Coast). Tightly wound aromas of black currant, blackberry

and lavender meet with light herbs and a lava rock minerality on the still-shy nose of this blend of 36% Grenache, 32% Syrah and 32% Mourvèdre. Chis-eled tannins frame the palate, where blackberry- jam-on-toast flavors lead into charred caramel toward the finish. There is much complexity to come. Drink 2022–2032. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

93 Écluse 2018 Improv (Paso Robles). Vanilla-soaked-cherry aromas are remarkably

subtle and pinpointed on the nose of this blend of 29% Carignan, 29% Petite Sirah, 21% Merlot, 14% Zinfandel and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, which also shows star anise and mace scents. There’s a flash of acidity on the tip of the sip and then tannins envelop the palate, delivering black-currant and blackplum flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

93 Écluse 2018 Rendition (Paso Robles). This is a boldly ripe blend of 32% Syrah, 31%

Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre, 6% Counoise and 6% Petite Sirah, sure to satisfy those seeking a powerful Rhône expression. Smooth aromas of cassis, roasted fig, vanilla cream and hot chocolate lead into a pal-ate where firm tannins frame the pleasant raisin, fig and even prune flavors. The finish shows Scotch-like smokiness. —M.K. abv: 15.7% Price: $44

93 Edio 2018 Frank’s Blend (Sierra Foothills). Very firm and structured, this tightly knit

wine compresses black cherry, blueberry and dark chocolate into a moderately tannic frame. Admirably concentrated and deep, it’s built for further aging, and should be best from 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $60

93 Hungry Hawk 2018 Estate Super Tuscan (San Diego County). Dark aromas of turned earth,

crushed rocks and dark berries meet with fresh tones of rose petal and raspberry sorbet on the nose of this blend of 39% Sangiovese, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 14% Malbec and 1% Shiraz. Rounded red-fruit and flower flavors of strawberry, hibiscus and more rose meet with cedar and tight tannins on the medium-bodied palate. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $48

93 Penfolds 2018 Bin 600 Cabernet-Shiraz (Cal-ifornia). For full review see page 9.

abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 Pursuit 2018 Campfire Red (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9.

abv: 15.5% Price: $55

BUYINGGUIDE


93 Top 2017 Inertia G-S-M (Central Coast). Rich aromas of black plum and fig lead into suave

spices of cola and sarsaparilla and rugged hints of earth and leather on the nose of this blend of 49% Grenache, 46% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre. Smooth, polished tannins frame the sip, where roasted red cherry, smoke, baked licorice and star anise flavors arise. —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $68

92 Benom 2018 Lapsus (Paso Robles). Rich aromas of pomegranate sauce meet with red

flowers, wet soil and crushed rocks on the nose of this blend of 30% Graciano, 30% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Charred berry and plum flavors show on the palate, where hints of leather and tar make for a wild, slightly gamy experience. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $68

92 Hood 2016 Red Blend (Paso Robles). Crisp black-raspberry, baked plum and

strawberry-in-caramel-sauce aromas make for a creamy and lush nose on this bottling. Purple- flower flavors of lilac and violet meet with underlying cas-sis, smoke and caramel on the sip, where lingering acidity carries into the finish. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $30

92 San Simeon 2017 Stormwatch Estate Reserve (Paso Robles). For full review see page 12.

abv: 14.5% Price: $80

92 Skinner 2018 Native (El Dorado). This pol-ished but full-bodied wine accelerates from

light earth, leather and plum aromas to rich, broad flavors of dark chocolate, mushrooms and black cherries. Made with a field blend of traditional Cali-fornia grape varieties, its concentration, depth and complexity are compelling. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $24

92 Wood Family Vineyards 2018 G-S-M (Liver-more Valley). Full bodied and full flavored,

this generous wine layers plum and blackberry on black-pepper and grilled beef flavors for an abso-lutely satisfying blend of fruity and savory refer-ences. Moderate tannins and a touch of acidity give it an appetizing texture. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $34

91 Buttonwood 2016 Trevin (Los Olivos District). Dried red-plum paste, rose petals, pepper-

corns and pencil shavings make for an elegant nose on this blend of 30% Cabernet Franc, 27% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Malbec. The palate is loaded with earthy herbs of marjoram and oregano alongside flavors of crumpled rose petals and roasted cranberry. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $36

91 Byron Blatty 2018 Tremor (Los Angeles County). There’s a pleasantly rustic, per-

haps old-vine-related character to Grenache-based wines from Los Angeles County, including the dried cherry, dried meat and salt-and-pepper nose on this bottling, which includes 20% Syrah and 10%

Merlot. Firm tannins hold up flavors of roasted cherry, vanilla and crème brûlée on the palate. —M.K. abv: 15.4% Price: $50

91 Cary Q 2018 G-S-M (Amador County). Complex and full bodied, this bold but smooth wine

offers a delicious mix of fruit, spice and savory fla-vors from dried cherry to new leather to black pep-per and clove. It’s layered on the palate and lingers on the finish. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $40

91 Écluse 2018 Ensemble (Paso Robles). Dark cassis and black-plum aromas meet with

cocoa and oak on the nose of this blend of 33% Malbec, 22% Merlot, 17% Petit Verdot, 17% Cab-ernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cari-gnan. The oak is prominent on the sip, where mocha and more cassis flavors make for a lush and complex experience. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

91 Justin 2017 Trilateral (Paso Robles). For full review see page 14.

abv: 15.5% Price: $55

91 Karine 2018 Accomplice Smith Vineyards ( Calaveras County). This full-bodied and

appropriately tannic wine offers effusive black-fruit aromas, concentrated and dense fruit flavors and nicely integrated accents of smoke and toasted oak. This blend of 70% Alicante Bouschet and 30% Zin-fandel is big but joyful, bringing buckets of black-berries and black cherries to coat the palate. Best from 2022–2030. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $36

91 Meadowlark 2013 Los Olivos Red Blend (Santa Barbara County). For full review see page 15.

abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Rangeland 2017 The Shepherd (Adelaida Dis-trict). Exuberant purple flower aromas meet

with aacia, Concord grape and cola spice on the nose of this blend of 35% Syrah, 35% Mourvèdre and 30% Grenache. There’s a wild array of pepper and herbs on the lighter bodied palate, from green and white peppercorns to wild thyme and berry juice. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

91 Skinner 2018 Eighteen Sixty-One (El Dorado). Floral and fruity notes compete for attention

in this flavorful, full-bodied Rhône-style blend as moderate tannins support rose petal, strawberry and concentrated black cherry on the palate. Best through 2024. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $36

90 AJA Vineyards 2014 Proprietary Red Wine (Malibu Coast). Tart black-raspberry and

light yet fresh strawberry aromas meet with hints of slate and turned soil on the nose of this bottling from Malibu. There’s an earthy streak of crushed rocks and loamy earth on the palate, with snappy,

slightly tangy fruit flavors carrying to the finish. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $39

90 Buttonwood 2018 Classic Cuvée (Santa Ynez Valley). This is a great go-to wine for mid-

week satisfaction over pizza, burgers or even more elevated fare. Aromas of baked clay, cranberry, dried oregano and thyme lead into an earthy yet fresh palate of red plums, tart berries and a graph-ite minerality. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

90 Castello di Amorosa 2016 La Castellana Super Tuscan (Napa Valley). Made from

72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 13% San-giovese and 1% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot, this is substantial red wine, thick in tannin and smoky oak. Plummy and lush, it finishes in deep, dark chocolate. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $98

90 Écluse 2018 Intonation Winemaker Series (Paso Robles). Crumpled lavender and vio-

let aromas meet with crisp black raspberry, tangy black plum and a hint of incense on the nose of this blend of 29% Cabernet Franc, 29% Cabernet Sau-vignon, 28% Merlot and 14% Zinfandel. There’s a lighter tone on the palate, where those tight red fruits meet with bay leaf, herbs and a bit of toast. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

90 Estancia 2017 Reserve Meritage (Paso Robles). Crumpled purple flowers, elder-

berry and pencil shavings make for a focused, lin-ear nose on this blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 6% Malbec. The palate is also very focused and floral, showing black plum as well as lilac, violet and lavender flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

90 Highlands 41 2019 Black Granite (Paso Robles). For full review see page 20. Best

Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

90 Knights Bridge 2017 Estate (Knights Valley). Iron and rock elements complement a thick

and concentrated midpalate of black currant, gun-powder and tannin in this robust, complex blend. Powerfully intense, it delivers a wealth of flavor and texture, finishing in substantial oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Meadowlark 2015 Red (Santa Barbara County). Dried berries, leather and damp

wood aromas show on this blend Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese and Syrah. Leather also comes through on the sip, as do incense and red-wood flavors as well as licorice and dark, deep red-fruit flavors. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $30

90 Rootdown 2019 Es Okay (Mendocino). G rapey, jammy and packed with enough

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black-pepper aromas to trigger a sneeze, this medium-bodied wine is fresh and gulpable. Light tannins and subtle acidity keep the texture lively. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

90 Thacher 2017 Constant Variable (Central Coast). This blend of 54% Grenache, 32%

Syrah and 14% Mourvèdre starts with a somewhat tangy nose of aacia, lilac and plum skins. The palate is a bit tart as well, yet that fresh character adds length to the juicy dark-fruit, cola, mint, sandal-wood and potpourri flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $48

90 William Gunn NV The Boss A Big Red Blend (El Dorado). For full review see page 21.

Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

89 Broadside 2018 Printers Alley (Paso Robles). Cola and Dr Pepper spice aromas meet with

dark cherry and oregano on the complex nose of this bottling. The cola spice is strong on the palate as well, where cappuccino, star anise, nutmeg and bay leaf also arise, alongside dry notes of cocoa. E ditors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

89 Donkey & Goat 2019 The Gallivanter (Cali-fornia). This light-bodied wine has a slim,

gripping texture and fresh berry and red-cherry flavors accented by hints of earth and black pepper. It’s lively and fresh, great for lunch instead of a rosé. —J.G. abv: 12% Price: $25

89 Miro 2018 Cuvée Sasha Grenache-Syrah (Mendocino County). What a good, meaty

alternative to simply fruity-oaky red blends! This medium-bodied and lightly tannic Rhône-style blend is savory, offering flavors of mushroom, roast beef, leather and earth over subtle pomegranate fruit. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

89 Montemar 2015 Thompson Vineyard (Santa Barbara County). A simple bottling that

would work well as a midweek table wine, this wine begins with lean aromas of roasted red plum, crumpled red flower and ample baking spice. The palate is crisp, with red-fruit and carnation flavors, wrapped in tense tannins and finishing on roasted meat. —M.K. abv: 13.1% Price: $38

88 689 Cellars 2018 Killer Drop (California). Attractive mint, menthol and cedar aromas

continue in the flavors of this full-bodied, oaky and chocolaty wine. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 KIng Chancho 2017 Bandito’s Blood (Cen-tral Coast). Aromas of black plum, baked

blackberry, nutmeg and flower petals show on the nose of this blend, which comes in a squat bottle. Dry, slightly rough tannins frame dark red-fruit

and mace flavors on the palate, which finishes on a Concord grape tone. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

88 Meadowlark 2016 Red (Santa Barbara County). This kitchen-sink blend of Cab-

ernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese and Syrah shows charred meat, blackberry-jam, licorice and purple-flower aromas on the nose. Deep and dark flavors arise on the palate, where dry tannins frame rugged flavors of charred meat and cedar, leading into a slightly bitter finish. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $30

88 Sobon Estate 2018 A Pemium (Amador County). This full-bodied and moderately

tannic wine offers handsome white-pepper and toasted oak aromas followed by tasty blackberry and beef flavors. It shows good concentration and a firm but rounded texture. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

88 Steele 2017 Persona Non Grata (Lake C ounty). Tasty blackberry and blueberry

flavors are ripe and jammy in this medium-bodied, lightly tannic wine. It’s well packed with fruitiness, smooth in texture and easy to enjoy. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

88 Verdon Estate 2018 Reserve No. 5 (Cali-fornia). This superdense, full-bodied and

firmly tannic wine is quite dry and somewhat aus-tere, yet offers attractive dark-chocolate, charcoal and black-licorice flavors. Best from 2023. —J.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $58

87 Donkey & Goat 2018 The Bear (El Dorado). Bright black-cherry and strawberry aromas

lead to a tangy, moderately tannic palate full of sour-cherry and blackberry flavors that are ener-gized by a tangy, almost spritzy texture. It’s an enjoyable, non-conformist wine. —J.G. abv: 12.2% Price: $42

85 Bota Box NV RedVolution (California). A touch of sweetness smooths out this nicely

fruity and lightly spicy wine. It’s soft in texture, full bodied and mouthfilling, offering blackberry and hints of black pepper. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $23/3 L

OTHER RED WINES

96 Lieu Dit 2017 Gamay (Santa Maria Valley). Stunning aromas of dark cherry, wild rasp-

berry, gamy meats, dark soil and slate recall a hike through a damp forest full of mushrooms, moss and fallen trees. The game-like umami character of the palate meets with fresh strawberry, tarragon, sage and toasted pumpkin seed, making for a unique and compelling wine. —M.K. abv: 12.8% Price: $40

93 Thacher 2019 Glenrose Vineyard Cinsault (Adelaida District). Sherman Thacher and

crew are leaders in the resurgence of this Rhône

grape, and this bottling bursts forth with aromas of strawberry, cranberry, rose potpourri, rusty earth and cinnamon. There’s tension to the brisk sip, where sage, marjoram and bay leaf give depth to the crisp cranberry fruit. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.51% Price: $36

92 Bargetto 2018 Regan Vineyards Dolcetto (Santa Cruz Mountains). Grown from a grape

native to the family’s Italian hometown, this darkly colored wine begins with surprisingly subtle aromas of boysenberry, black plum and spice cake. Sandy tannins frame the dark-plum and sandalwood fla-vors, which are dissected by a mineral streak of rust and blood. The elegance will only shine with time. Drink now–2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

92 LangeTwins 2017 Jahant Woods 02 Vineyard Teroldego (Jahant). For full review see page

11. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $32

91 Angeleno 2018 Alonso Family Vineyard T annat (Sierra Pelona Valley). Intriguing aromas

of incense and singed pine meet with dark cherry and berry fruits on the nose of this bottling from a region northeast of Los Angeles. There’s a woody hint of palo santo to the sip, with light brushes of cranberry and plum, set against still-tight tannins. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $40

91 LangeTwins 2017 River Ranch Vineyard Petit Verdot (Jahant). For full review see page 14.

abv: 14% Price: $32

90 Battuello 2018 Valdiguié (St. Helena). For full review see page 16.

abv: 12.5% Price: $45

90 Écluse 2018 Lock Vineyard Winemaker Series Tannat (Paso Robles). Roasted black

cherry aromas make for a gooey entry to this wine, which is wrapped in caramel and strong oak on the nose. It’s thick on the palate with coffee cream, milk chocolate and more roasted red-fruit flavors. —M.K. abv: 16.1% Price: $52

90 LangeTwins 2018 Redtail Vineyard Nero d’Avola (Jahant). For full review see page 17.

abv: 14% Price: $32

90 Portalupi 2018 L Venturi Vineyard Charbono (Mendocino County). This dense, tannic

and concentrated wine holds its deep blueberry, cranberry and woodsmoke flavors tightly. It’s a rare varietal in California and requires either patience on the part of the drinker or an indulgent, rich dish to pair it with. Best after 2028. —J.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $40

90 Trentadue 2017 Old Orchard Estate Monte-pulciano (Alexander Valley). Soft and

supple in rustic blueberry, cranberry and cherry, this is a big, bold wine with considerable tannins that integrate with ease. Toasted oak notes carry it

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through a long finish of leathery baking spice and cocoa powder. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $34

90 Whipsmart Wine Company 2019 One Fine Morning Dolcetto (Russian River Valley).

This wine is whole-cluster fermented via carbonic maceration, providing a lasting freshness and verve on the palate. Light and delicate in color and struc-ture, this wine is simple, focused and food-friendly, fruity in plum and wild grape, ideally served chilled. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $25

89 Appellations Cellars 2016 Centenarians Reserve Century Vine Carignane (Lodi). This

full-bodied wine is well packed with black fruit flavors on a moderately tannic structure that gives some bite to the texture. Black-cherry and cherry-cola flavors are accented by mellow, woody, nutty notes. —J.G. abv: 15.7% Price: $65

88 Karine 2017 The Dance Old Victorian Vine-yard Alicante Bouschet (Calaveras County).

Handsome oaky flavors are intertwined with grilled plum and mulled black cherries in this full-bodied and moderately tannic wine. Balsam, clove and woodsmoke join mellow, mature fruit flavors. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

88 Hawley 2017 Camporelli Vineyard Reserve Nebbiolo (Sonoma Valley). Tannic and

smoky, with meaty midpalate, this is a robust, rustic and dusty wine, chewy in raisiny tannins. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

88 Rootdown 2019 St Amant Vineyard Trous-seau (Amador County). This light, fresh and

quaffable wine is light in color, medium in body and nicely fruity-spicy in flavor. Raspberries and red cherries are accented by black pepper giving it a lively, refreshing character. —J.G. abv: 12% Price: $34

88 Saini 2018 Trailer Block Old Vine Carignane (Dry Creek Valley). Inviting fruity flavors of

cherry and berry are accented in vibrant vanilla in this easygoing, full-bodied wine. Tobacco, leather and cedar components give it additional likability and length. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

88 Temecula Hills 2016 Estate Tempranillo (Cal-ifornia). For full review see page 19.

abv: 14.7% Price: $34

87 Wood Family Vineyards 2018 Petit Verdot (Livermore Valley). Bold cherry and mint

aromas lead to spicy notes and good black-cherry fla-vors that come out on the palate in this full-bodied high-octane wine. —J.G. abv: 15.4% Price: $32

82 Fasi Estate 2019 Estate Charbono (Madera). Cola, roasted veggies and black-pepper

notes combine in this rather lean, dry, moderately tannic wine. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

SWEET WINES

92 Amador Cellars NV Doce Flor Touriga Nacional (Amador County). This luscious, forti-

fied wine made from a variety famous in Portugal is super saturated with semisweet flavors of black plum, boysenberry and spicy notes like vanilla, cin-namon and clove. Blue cheese and toasted walnuts will love it. —J.G. abv: 19% Price: $28/375 ml

90 Amador Cellars 2015 Rocky Point Vineyard Late Harvest Zinfandel (Amador County).

When Zinfandel grapes are left to ripen and shrivel to the point of overt sweetness, they can make a potently flavorful wine like this that is lightly sweet and very full bodied. It will be a good after-dinner drink or a good choice for pairing with dried, aged cheese. —J.G. abv: 16% Price: $32

88 V. Sattui 2019 Riesling (Anderson Valley). This sweet wine overflows with ripe peach

flavors and has a characteristic light smoke and meat aroma. It’s mouthcoating and medium bodie and similar in sweetness to a German Auslese. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

OREGONCHARDONNAY

95 Abbott Claim 2017 X Omni Vineyards Char-donnay (Eola-Amity Hills). For full review

see page 4. abv: 13% Price: $115

95 Day 2018 Belle Pente Vineyard Chardonnay (Yamhill-Carlton). This astonishing wine

does for Oregon Chardonnay what Cayuse has done for Oregon Syrah—utterly reinvented it. Thick with flavors of mashed pears, peaches and sweet lem-ons, it’s big but still nuanced. Scents and streaks of flower pollen, lemon meringue, baking spices and more make this compelling wine both fascinating and challenging. Winemaker Brianne Day ferments with native yeast in one-third new puncheon and two-thirds neutral barrels. This is simply stunning. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $40

95 White Walnut 2018 Worden Hill Rd. Chardon-nay (Dundee Hills). For full review see page

5.abv: 13.6% Price: $55

94 White Walnut 2018 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). For full review see page 7. Editors’


93 Bluebird Hill 2018 Reserve Chardonnay (Wil-lamette Valley). Rich and creamy, with a

leesy, textured mouthfeel, this offers perfectly rip-ened tree fruits along with light streaks of caramel and buttered nuts. It’s a wine of impeccable balance, with what seems to be more new oak exposure than the regular bottling, but not at all too much. The youthful energy of this young wine argues for drink-ing it sooner rather than later, though it should be fine over the next half decade. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $49

93 Rex Hill 2016 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Chardon-nay (Chehalem Mountains). This has plenty

of bottle age, so drink up. From the estate’s top vineyard, it’s rich and creamy, with buttery apple pie flavors in abundance. It was fermented and aged in a mix of oak barrels and concrete egg. Just 14% of the barrels were new. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

93 The Eyrie Vineyards 2018 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Not many pedigreed, iconic,

pioneering American wineries put out estate-grown wines at this price. Wiht 60% of the grapes coming from the original 53-year-old vines, this delicious wine is scented with Bourbon barrel, flavored with ripe mixed apples, and finished with spicy pie crust. Yet it remains elegant, supple and precise; it’s in no way over the top. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $27

92 Abbott Claim 2018 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). This new Oregon project from Beck

Family Estates debuts with a fresh, minerally blend of grapes from Seven Springs, X Omni and Chehalem Mountain vineyards. Indigenous yeast fermenta-tions were done in one-third new oak, then aged in stainless steel prior to bottling. Green melon, green apple, apple skin and cucumber flavors combine in a wine with excellent balance and penetration. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $65

92 Ayoub 2018 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Rich and tangy lemon drop candy fruit sasses the

palate, with more citrus, pineapple and nectarine right behind. With its mouthfilling, chunky qual-ity, this fruit-powered, big-shouldered Chardon-nay retains enough acidity to lift itself up through a racy, cleansing finish. Barrel fermented in 10% new French oak, it should be enjoyed over the next half decade. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $55

92 Bluebird Hill 2019 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 10. Editors’


92 Brick House 2018 Cascadia Chardonnay (Rib-bon Ridge). Crisp and layered, with whiffs of

flower and spice, this appealing young wine offers fresh apple fruit, along with lighter, well-defined flavors of cucumber and white peach. The low alco-hol is in keeping with the flavor profile, but the

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biodynamic farming brings great depth and detail, unusual in such a lightly ripened wine. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $40

92 Chehalem 2018 Reserve Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Formerly Ian’s Reserve, then

Stoller Reserve, what’s in the bottle remains the same—fresh, clean and tasty single-vineyard juice. There’s a polished mix of apple and pear fruit, anno-tated with touches of sliced orange and a smooth, well-integrated finish with a lingering suggestion of butter cookie. It was barrel fermented and aged in 20% new oak. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

92 The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Original Vines Char-donnay (Dundee Hills). As the label indi-

cates, some of these vines date back half a century. The layered flavors of kiwi, apple and pear fruit are accented with scents and hints of mint and bubble-gum. The long, detailed finish brings a touch of bit-ter lemon rind. As with so many of Eyrie’s white and red wines, the aging potential on this is well beyond average. Drink now and over the next decade. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $60

91 Cardwell Hill 2019 Estate Bottled The Bard Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Done in a

fine-tuned, lightly spicy style, this offers focused fruit flavors of apple, melon and tangerine. It was organically farmed and barrel fermented, and though there’s little evidence of new wood, a pleas-ant hint of coconut water rolls through the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

91 Wilkens Family 2018 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). This is the reserve label for Abbey

Road Farm. It’s a two-barrel selection from the same sources as the regular Chardonnay, but here one of the barrels was new, bringing strong scents of clove and cinnamon spice as the wine is poured. Pure apple fruit flavors carry out the impression of cinnamon, and the flavors hold firm though the mouthfeel seems to flatten out a bit through the back palate. Drink this over the next two or three years. —P.G. abv: 11.6% Price: $70

90 Abbey Road Farm 2018 Chardonnay (Willa-mette Valley). A 50-50 blend of Yamhill-

Carlton and Ribbon Ridge fruit, this outperforms the listed low alcohol degree of ripeness. It’s crisp and lean to be sure, with ample lime, grapefruit and green apple flavors firmly framed with phenolic highlights from whole-cluster pressing. No new oak was used. —P.G. abv: 11.9% Price: $37

90 White Walnut 2018 North Blocks Chardon-nay (Dundee Hills). This complex, organi-

cally grown block selection dramatically reflects the winery’s dedication to native yeasts, minimal intervention and mixed fermentation vessels. It’s got a wild streak a mile wide, which may delight some palates and mystify others. The tart peach and citrus flavors turn sour as they wind down, with

numerous details of pollen and yeast and herbal tea. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

88 A to Z 2019 Chardonnay (Oregon). Solid winemaking elevates this affordable wine,

sourced from vineyards north, south and in-between. The fruit mix is pleasant but generic, mostly apple flavors. There are interesting hints of buttered herbs and chicken stock, light enough to be considered unusual accents. The wine was not put through malolactic fermentation. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Acrobat 2019 Chardonnay (Oregon). Quite accessible and enjoyable already, this mixes

pear and apple flavors into a smooth, fruit-driven wine with just the right dollop of buttery bar-rel toast. It’s balanced and medium-bodied, nicely pulled together and a fine value. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Trathen Hall 2018 Arlyn Vineyard Chardon-nay (Chehalem Mountains). This verges on

sourness, with green apple fruit flavors and a touch of gooseberry. Fermented and aged 16 months in neutral barrels, it nonetheless shows a hint of toast in the finish. Definitely a wine for acid lovers, best served as an accompaniment to something along the lines of garlic-roasted chicken. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $26

PINOT BLANC

91 The Eyrie Vineyards 2019 Pinot Blanc (Dundee Hills). This is a finesse wine, scented and fla-

vored with apple skins as well as flesh. There are subtle suggestions of green pineapple and citrus, and the wine is balanced and quite refreshing. The overall impact lingers far beyond the immediate lightness of flavor. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $21

91 Yamhill Valley 2018 Estate Pinot Blanc (McMinnville). This is nicely differentiated

from both Pinot Gris and Chardonnay, grapes it may often closely resemble. Here it occupies the middle ground, picking up the apple, pear and melon fruit of the former, and some of the buttery barrel toast of the latter. Overall it’s fresh, balanced and moder-ately long. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

90 Winter’s Hill 2018 Reserve Pinot Blanc (Dundee Hills). This barrel-fermented wine

features green and yellow apple flavors, edged with citrusy acidity. There’s a hint of skin contact in the tart, sharp and well-defined finish. This should drink nicely over the next half decade. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $29

PINOT GRIS

94 The Eyrie Vineyards 2019 Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). The handwritten label indicates that

this is a limited edition wine, sourced from the orig-inal vines, now a half century old. This is done in a subtle, elegant style that rewards your full atten-tion. Hints of bee pollen, lemon rind and brioche adorn a deceptively light but textured and layered wine with a lingering finish. The green apple fruit anchors the palate without dominating. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $41

93 The Eyrie Vineyards 2018 Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). Eyrie was the first to plant Pinot Gris

in America, long before it became Oregon’s most famous white grape. No surprise that five decades later it’s Eyrie that makes the state’s most distinc-tive, elegant version of the grape. Beautifully tex-tured mixed tree fruits—apple and white peach—are on display here, along with details of freshly baked bread and light herbs such as parsley. A touch of melon comes up in the back palate, and the wine just keeps chugging along through a marvelous fin-ish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $21

92 Cardwell Hill 2019 Estate Bottled Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). A chunky, fruity, tangy

style, this delicious bottle pulls tangerine, pear and apple fruit flavors into the center ring. It’s spicy, juicy and just plain yummy. As in past vintages, the intensity is further amped up by perfectly pitched acidity, thanks to no malolactic fermentation. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $20

92 Winter’s Hill 2018 Reserve Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). Fermented in a mix of French oak

barrels and stainless steel, this rich, textural take on Pinot Gris boasts multiple layers. Plenty of ripe pear fruit anchors the palate, laced with touches of baking spice, vanilla cream and toasted walnuts. A most pleasurable wine for enjoying over the next two or three years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $29

90 A to Z 2019 Pinot Gris (Oregon). For full review see page 15. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 13.5% Price: $16

90 Yamhill Valley 2019 Estate Pinot Gris (McMinnville). Well-defined flavors feature

green melon, lime and apple, with a sharp hint of gooseberry. It’s a fresh, minerally style, relatively low in alcohol but nicely balanced. It did not go through malolactic, so it’s a style that favors acid lovers. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $22

88 Territorial 2019 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val-ley). This is done in an easy-going, lightly

fruity style, with an appealing flinty character. Fer-mented entirely in stainless, its slightly granular pear fruit is laced with lemon. The finish leaves a lingering hint of spice. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $19

87 The Great Oregon Wine Company 2019 La Chouette Vineyard Pinot Gris (Willamette

Valley). Despite its youth, this is a mellow, simple

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wine, with pleasantly generic varietal flavors touch-ing on pear fruit. The buttery finish suggests that some or all may have gone through malolactic fer-mentation. Drink this over the next year or two, chilled a bit to bring more focus. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $24

OTHER WHITE WINES

93 Trathen Hall 2018 Le Pavillon Vineyard Ries-ling (Dundee Hills). This exceptional wine

is made from old vines dating back to 1972. It’s bursting with zippy fruit flavors of lemon, melon, tangerine and pineapple. Though fermented dry, it has enough residual sweetness to bring hints of rock candy along for the ride. Drink now through the mid-2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 11.9% Price: $28

92 Territorial 2018 Equinox Vineyard Riesling (Willamette Valley). Consistency is the

watchword for this single-vineyard effort. It’s lushly fruity with a ripe mix of pears, tangerines and apri-cots. Balancing acidity doesn’t push it too hard, and 16 g/L of residual sugar rounds it off without turn-ing it sugary. It’s built to age well over the next eight to 10 years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

92 Trathen Hall 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Wil-lamette Valley). The pungent, racy aromas

are reminiscent of South African versions of the grape, married to rich and sappy fruit flavors. It’s strongly varietal with ripe lemon, lime and grape-fruit commanding the broad citrus display. Juicy acidity keeps it refreshing through the finish. The fruit was sourced from the Croft and La Chenaie vineyards, then fermented and aged principally in neutral French oak. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $24

92 Troon 2019 Côtes du Kubli Cowhorn Vineyard Blanc (Applegate Valley). This rich blend

of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne was sourced from the biodynamic Cowhorn Vineyard and fer-mented with wild yeasts. It’s thick and viscous, loaded with ripe, almost unctuous fruit flavors of peach, apricot and sweet pear. Though not a dessert wine, there’s enough fruit sweetness to give it a full-bodied finish, buoyed by moderate acidity. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $35

91 Cowhorn 2019 Reserve Viognier (Applegate Valley). Cowhorn’s Viogniers invariably

present themselves as concentrated, aromatic and loaded with citrusy highlights. This new reserve is no exception, with lemon rind and lemon curd among the full-bodied tree fruit flavors. It seems to have spent some time in new wood, bringing pretty flavors of vanilla wafer and butter cookie into the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

90 Cowhorn 2019 Spiral 36 (Applegate Val-ley). The blend in 2019 is 45% Viognier,

20% Marsanne and 35% Roussanne, yielding an

intensely fragrant wine bursting with citrus oil and white flower scents and flavors. Spicy lemon, apple and white peach fruit shows both focus and com-plexity, leading into a finish with bitter botanicals. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

90 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2019 White Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full


88 The Eyrie Vineyards 2019 Chasselas Doré (Dundee Hills). A pale, dry, ephemeral

expression of a grape originally from the Jura and Alps regions of France, this white wine is exception-ally rare in the U.S. Sourced from a scant two rows in the winery’s Sisters Vineyard, it’s not as searingly acidic as one might expect, but does bring pleasant flavors of apple juice and skins. It was organically grown and aged about six months on the lees. —P.G. abv: 9.5% Price: $27

88 The Eyrie Vineyards 2016 Melon de Bour-gogne (Dundee Hills). Now rarely seen,

this light white wine used to be fairly common in Oregon, though mired in confusion as to its actual origins. Done here in a forward, roundly fruity style, it’s lightly spiced with appealing apple and pear fla-vors. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $45

88 Troon 2019 Amphora Amber Vermentino (Applegate Valley). A slightly muddy yel-

low-orange hue, this was fermented and aged 10 months in amphorae on the skins. It is a decid-edly orange wine. Soft, slightly oxidized and silky smooth, it shows pretty orange and tangerine fruit, more like fruit leather than freshly squeezed. The winery believes it’s a style that will age well; time will tell. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $35

SPARKLING WINES

90 The Great Oregon Wine Company 2016 Coles Valley Vineyard Blanc de Noir (Umpqua Val-

ley). This was disgorged in September 2020 after four years en tirage. It’s a crisp, clean, fresh and youthful sparkling wine, all Pinot Noir but more like a Blanc de Blancs in flavors. Grapefruit, apple and white peach fruit mix together, with a fine mousse and moderate aging potential. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $44

88 Abbey Road Farm 2019 Sparkling Pinot Gris (Chehalem Mountains). Sourced from the

Dion Vineyard, this refreshing, lightly sweet bubbly is much like a Prosecco, done with the pear fruit fla-vors of this iconic Oregon grape. Hints of honey that streak through the nose and the palate, along with the fruit sweetness that rounds off the acidity, make this exceptionally versatile as an aperitif, a mimosa mixer or even poured after dinner with a chunk of blue cheese. —P.G. abv: 11.6% Price: $29

87 The Eyrie Vineyards NV Spark (Willamette Valley). Spark is a light, crown-capped

blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chasselas Doré. Despite the low alcohol it’s finished dry, with sim-ple, pleasant flavors of watermelon and strawberry. It’s basically a blended rosé with light carbonation added. —P.G. abv: 11.4% Price: $28

85 Ransom 2019 Frizzante Bianco Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This crown-capped pét-

nat has scents of hay and funk, with light apple fruit flavors. It’s like drinking an apple-flavored sparkling water—refreshing, simple and evanescent. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $26

ROSÉ

92 Rex Hill 2019 Pinot Noir Rosé (Willamette Valley). Rex Hill’s rosé is as good as it gets

in Oregon. The fun begins with the clear bottle, covered with embossed white flowers, that lets the pretty coral color of the wine show through (just keep it away from any sunlight). Strawberries and cocoa powder flavors shine here, with an appealing dusty character and a layered, lingering finish. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

PINOT NOIR

96 Dion 2018 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). The old vines—Pommard

clone, own-rooted, and planted in 1976—offer a rare peek into Oregon’s winemaking past. The subtle lay-ering, depth and detail of this wine are impressive, as is the sheer power of these old vines. Red berries, cherries, nectarines and even a hint of pineapple are evident, with silky tannins and perfectly set acid-ity. Aged in 50% new barrels, it’s a gem. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $65

95 The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This single-vineyard cuvée features

some of the original vines from the 1965 planting at Eyrie. It’s as Burgundian in style as it gets in Oregon, without losing its sense of prime place in the Dundee Hills. Subtle, elegant and detailed, it’s layered with cherries, strawberries and hints of nectarines. There’s an appealing creamy character, and a whiff of sweet tobacco. It’s perfectly balanced and should age beautifully. Drink now through the mid-2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $80

95 The Eyrie Vineyards 2015 South Block Origi-nal Vines Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The

South Block designate, from the original planting at Eyrie, had not been produced since founder David Lett passed away. Until now. These half-century-old, phylloxera-ravaged vines don’t have much far-ther to go, so this is a real treasure. Richly layered with strawberries, cherries and orange peel, the flavors tunnel down and through, bringing black

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fruits along with streaks of dark chocolate and cara-mel. It’s full, round and surprisingly fruity, drink-ing nicely but cellarable over the next half decade. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $180

94 Abbott Claim 2018 Due North Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). For full review see page

5. abv: 13% Price: $115

94 Ayoub 2018 Brittan Vineyard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). This captures the expres-

sive minerality of Robert and Ellen Brittan’s vine-yard, with pinpoint details of bright, focused rasp-berry fruit and tongue-drying rock. It’s dense and focused, young and tightly wound, with the struc-ture and acidity to age for a considerably long time. Drink 2022–2032. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

94 Bluebird Hill 2018 South Block Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see


94 Brick House 2018 Cuvée du Tonnelier Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Sourced from the

estate’s original 1990 plantings, this sadly marks the final vintage for these phylloxera-affected vines, which have now been removed and replanted. It’s a sweet farewell, dense and aromatic with plum and black cherry fruit. The seashell highlights charac-teristic of the AVA can be sniffed out, along with a substrate of lightly bitter herb. This lovely wine should bring pleasure for many years to come. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $48

94 Broadley 2018 Jessica Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). This is smooth and rich,

already drinking well and likely to hold well for up to a decade. The flavors coat the palate with lush cherry fruit and accents of cherry cola and sassa-fras. All Wadenswil clone, half whole-cluster fer-mented, and aged over a year in 30% new French oak, this doesn’t have the smoky darkness of the companion release (Claudia’s Choice) but instead shows the barrel influence with coconut flakes and light baking spices. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $55

94 Dion 2018 Hang Time Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This features fruit that was left

to hang an extra two weeks. It’s a risky proposition, given unpredictable weather and ravenous birds, but this time around the gamble has paid off big-time. A lovely light color just hinting at sunset, this delicate, balanced wine is a classic compendium of red fruits, cherry candy, citrus highlights, baking spices and beautifully managed tannins. It was aged for 14 months in half new French oak, and it’s har-monious, deeply penetrating and elegant to the end. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

94 Lichtenwalter 2018 Joy Block Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). The first estate wines from

this excellent vineyard were made by Drew Voit. This limited bottling is a field blend of seven clones from the original planting 15 years ago. It’s wonder-fully detailed with subtle, lingering, layered flavors of berries, rock and seashell. Hints of lime and peavine bring further complexity as the wine keeps developing on the palate. A wonderful debut that may be enjoyed immediately or cellared for another half decade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $49

94 The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Daphne Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The five single-vineyard

selections from Eyrie are partially determined by elevation, Daphne being the highest, topping out at 860 feet. All Pommard clones between 45 and 35 years of age, it was fermented with wild yeast and aged in 12% new barrels. Tart and elegant, the basic framing of fruit and acidity and tannin is perfect, the raspberry core bright and lingering as it leads into a long finish touching on cherry. From start to finish it’s an elegant wine, which should drink nicely into the mid-2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $80

93 Bluebird Hill 2018 Mom’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A lovely, bright wine,

the fruit flavors focus on cranberry, pomegranate and raspberry. It’s stylish and fresh, with snappy, acidity-boosted flavors and the structure to age. Drink now for its youthful pizzazz, or cellar it another five or six years to amend the slightly bitter tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $49

93 Bluebird Hill 2018 Zenith Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This is an

aromatic wine with sweet spices and floral scents. Sharp boysenberry fruit cuts across the palate. There are streaks of clean earth and slightly bitter herbs, all well-integrated in terms of balance, but a few more years of bottle age will help to smooth out any rough edges. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $49

93 Brick House 2018 Les Djonnais Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Mixing five different Dijon

clones (hence the name), this tightly wound young wine is wrapped in earthy, herbal scents and tex-tures. There’s a compact weave of red berry and pomegranate fruits, and further details from biody-namic farming, 30% whole-cluster fermentation, native yeasts and aging in one-third new French oak. It seems clear that a bit more bottle age will reveal more of the depth and detail currently bound up in this wine. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $54

93 Broadley 2018 Claudia’s Choice Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This mix of Pommard

and Wadenswil clones was fermented with wild yeast, 40% whole clusters and aged in 30% new French oak. It’s a complex, sophisticated wine, powerfully built with black cherry fruit, whiffs of wood smoke and a streak of Dr Pepper. The tannins

continue the highlighting of dark fruits and barrel toast, finishing with a seam of espresso. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $55

93 Day 2017 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Sourced from a much-

sought-after biodynamic vineyard, this wine sneaks up on you. At first it’s light and herbal, but as it breathes open it gains texture, detail and length. Tart wild berries, dried leaves, the barest hint of new barrel toast (15% were new) and a mix of dried herbs all come together in this beautifully balanced effort. It’s a salute to the complexity possible even in a lighter, more challenging vintage. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $54

93 Dion 2018 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Four Dion clones

are in the blend here, and the finished blend spent 14 months in half new French oak. It’s a muscular wine, with blueberries and plums and cherries and chocolate. The tannins are substantial, ripe and firm, and anchor a balanced wine that should age well. Drink now and over the next decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $50

93 The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Outcrop Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This site sits on thin, rocky,

volcanic soils, bringing a mineral foundation to the flavors. There’s a lightly funky, leathery note as well, along with more elegant fruit flavors of tart rasp-berry and pie cherry. The acidity adds touches of orange peel, and the overall impression is a well-balanced, somewhat quirky wine with interesting threads of fruit, rock and leather. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $50

93 The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Roland Green Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The ripest and most

fruit-forward of the five single-vineyard Pinots from Eyrie, this seems almost chunky by compari-son with the elegance of the others. That’s no criti-cism, as right out of the bottle it’s the most acces-sible, with a solid core of cherry fruit and balancing acidity. A mix of Wadenswil and Pommard clones planted in 1988, the site is directly south-facing, which may account for that extra burst of ripe fruit. Drink now through 2028. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $60

92 Abbott Claim 2018 Abbott Claim Vineyard Orientate Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton).

Native yeasts and mixed ferments in wood, concrete and steel are hallmarks here. This tightly woven small-barrel selection opens with rhubarb, cran-berry and strawberry leaves, then breathes into pure cherry fruit with accents of chamomile tea. It’s a wine you will surely want to decant to give it maximum opportunity to expand. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $115

92 Ayoub 2018 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This young wine opens with

strong herbal scents and flavors. That slight bitter-ness smooths out with a burst of vanilla. The flavors evolve in the glass into a mix of thistle, lovage, wild

BUYINGGUIDE


berry and sour cherry candy. It’s destined for a long life and should be tucked away until 2025. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $65

92 Ayoub 2018 Estate Whole Cluster Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Whole-cluster fermentation

is the hallmark of this wine, which remains stub-bornly closed. Aggressive aeration and hours of time help considerably, bringing up tight layers of dried tea leaves, chamomile, fruit leather and an overrid-ing minerality. This is a wine that clearly shows the hand of the winemaker and the stamp of the soil. Give it more bottle age and decant it prior to drink-ing. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $75

92 Ayoub 2018 Memoirs Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The label honors Mo Ayoub’s late

brother, and the wine is done in classic Willamette Valley style. Crisp, precise and fresh, it’s replete with red berries, tart cherry and underlying miner-ality. The acidity lifts the flavors as they sail into a lingering finish with a hint of buttered toast. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $45

92 Bluebird Hill 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Replete with a lush mix of blue

and purple fruits, this supple and satisfying wine pops with juicy acidity and ripe blueberries. A thin thread of bitter herbs suggests that some whole clusters might be in the mix, but the overall balance and ripeness is spot-on. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

92 Brick House 2018 Halliday Hill Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This is the first time this

vineyard designate has been offered. It’s from a site right across the road from Brick House that is farmed biodynamically by the Brick House team. It’s a sexy wine with sharp scents and flavors of berries, along with focused details of pepper, rosemary and thyme. Half was whole-cluster fermented, and one-third of the cooperage was new. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $45

92 Day 2018 Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir (Van Duzer Corridor). As with all of Brianne Day’s

wines this is detailed and well-balanced, a mix of raspberry and cherry fruit with phenolic herbal flavors and textures. The complementary acidity brings a splash of orange juice, and the finish has the slightest hint of leather. Drink now and over the next five years. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $48

92 Day 2018 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Bright and full-bodied fruit

from this biodynamic site opens broadly across the palate. Aged 22 months in French oak, just 12% new, it artfully mixes strawberry and raspberry flavors with penetrating streaks of lemon pith and rind. The balance throughout is exceptional. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $56

92 Day 2017 Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir (Van Duzer Corridor). A bit austere when first

opened, this rewards extra breathing time (or

decanting) with impressive details from biodynamic farming. Beetroot, dried herbs, spicy floral notes and even stem flavors are in the mix, but with none of the bitterness that too often accompanies wines in which the fruit flavors are subdued. Raspberry punches through, along with pomegranate and a hint of bay leaf. The wine is fermented with wild yeasts and aged 22 months in 15% new oak. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $46

92 Dion 2018 115 West Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This is a single clone, single

block selection, replete with red fruits. It hints at the lighter side of ripeness, touching upon rhubarb and tart cherry, along with a seam of orange marma-lade. It’s a tasty and complex effort, with a tongue-drying mineral-herbal finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

92 Granville 2018 Louie Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Louie is the estate reserve bottling,

sourced from the Holstein Vineyard. It’s a smooth, seductive wine, sourced principally from the oldest vines in the vineyard. Plum jam and vanilla cream flavors combine in a plush palate. There’s a mix of mulberry and blueberry fruit also, and a lick of milk chocolate from aging in one-quarter new barrels. This is the sort of irresistible young Pinot that may be at its best already. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $90

92 Lichtenwalter 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Rib-bon Ridge). Wines from this estate, located

in a prime spot atop Ribbon Ridge, neatly capture the essence of the AVA. Fresh cranberry and rasp-berry fruit are accented with a mineral foundation. There are scents and highlights of seashells, and the flavors penetrate well into the lingering finish, retaining excellent balance throughout. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $39

92 Lichtenwalter 2018 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). A two-barrel selection,

one of which was all Pommard clone, this needs a bit more time to fully integrate itself. There are excellent components of pomegranate fruit, seashell minerality and savory umami and fungus flavors. The mouthfeel is a bit chalky and astringent, but further bottle age should smooth things out. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $59

92 Rex Hill 2017 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Already in what

feels like its prime drinking window, this is display-ing bountiful herbal phenolic flavors, and moving the black fruits into the background. Shadows of earth, cola and dried herbs continue into a fading finish. Enjoy it at its peak and drink over the next two or three years. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $75

92 The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Sisters Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The five single-vineyard

selections from Eyrie are partially determined by elevation, Sisters being the lowest site. It’s a gentle wine, with flowery highlights and pretty strawberry fruit. But it flexes its muscle and gains power in

the mouth, with the floral details of wild yeasts, and suggestions of bread and toast. It’s well-bal-anced and should drink well through the rest of the decade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $45

91 Abbott Claim 2018 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carl-ton). This is the first estate bottling from

this acclaimed (pun intended) vineyard since new owner Antony Beck and his team took over. The vineyard is being managed organically with some biodynamic practices. Wild yeasts are used for fer-mentation, which brings some unusual floral and textural components. The wine is lightly ripened, with cranberry, raspberry and mineral highlights. It was aged for about a year in one-third new oak. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $65

91 Ayoub 2018 Anonimo Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This vineyard was planted

by Mo Ayoub in 2013, with nine Pinot Noir clones mixed across five acres. It’s a juicy wine, with zesty flavors of citrus and raspberries. The minerality common to many Ayoub Pinots is evident here as well, and with an astringent herbaceousness (20% of the ferment was whole clusters). The mouthfeel is lively and the aging potential apparent. Drink 2022–2030. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $55

91 Benza 2018 Three Tuxedos Pinot Noir (Che-halem Mountains). The name honors the

owners’ three cats, also referenced by the bow-tie logo and notched label. This reserve is a deeper, more robust companion to the winery’s regular 2018, with ripe raspberry and cherry fruit that have a bit of a candy character. Aging in 40% new French oak brings touches of toast and cracker. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

91 Cherry Hill 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Supple, vivid raspberry fruit is on full

display and is juicy and bright. The wine was aged 18 months in French oak, though little or no toast flavors are evident. Rather there are well-handled details of skin and stem, and fine balance through-out. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

91 Dion 2018 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This estate-grown wine is packed with Pinot

power. Scents and flavors open with strawberry leaves and Bing cherry fruit, backed by grippy tan-nins. The herbal side of the grape is much in evi-dence, but balanced throughout. It spend just under a year in 18% new French oak. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $32

91 Rex Hill 2017 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Moun-tains). This cuvée is mostly a blend of fruit

from the Jacob-Hart and Alloro vineyards. Tasted at three years of age it has smoothed out, so what may have been somewhat bitter herbal highlights are softened and matched to fig and briary berry fruit.

WINEMAG.COM | 57

Barrel aging 11 months in one-third new French oak adds a finishing streak of espresso. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $45

91 The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Eyrie now makes five sin-

gle-vineyard Pinots, along with this estate blend. There’s a pretty potent whiff of leather, and the pal-ate carries a funky note that will please some pal-ates more than others. Other highlights of sassafras come around a core of classic Dundee Hills cherry fruit, but the palate seems a bit muted by the tack room notes. Drink this over the next couple of years. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $38

91 Trathen Hall 2017 Ana Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). From an older vineyard

planted in the mid-1970s and since renamed, this is an elegant wine with fresh raspberry and Satsuma orange flavors. All neutral oak was used, though a light suggestion of cocoa remains, to good effect. Enjoyable now, while it’s young and juicy, this should continue to develop and even improve over the next six to eight years. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $45

91 Trathen Hall 2017 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Half of the ferment was

whole clusters, and the wine has astringent pheno-lic flavors showing, with details of mint, tarragon, sage and dried Mediterranean herbs. The fruit tilts toward cranberry, with plenty of backing acidity. The wine was aged entirely in neutral oak. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

91 Wilkens Family 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is the reserve label for Abbey

Road Farm. It’s a two-barrel selection from the same sources as the regular Pinot Noir; one barrel was new. Supple dark fruits, along with a slightly bitter streak of barrel toast, give the cherry flavors a sort of charred character. The wine is in good shape for near-term drinking, with medium length and bal-ance. Decanting first is recommended to soften the barrel impact. —P.G. abv: 11.6% Price: $70

91 Winter’s Hill 2018 Block 10 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). A second all-Pommard clone offering

from the winery, this showcases a different vineyard block. It’s an aromatic wine, redolent with roses and raspberries. It’s tangy and tasty in the mouth, with fresh raspberry fruit buoyed with well-balanced acidity. The underlying minerality expands and extends the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $54

91 Winter’s Hill 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This eight-barrel selection handles

the challenges of a lighter vintage well, delivering a balanced palate with red currants, raspberries and sweet spice. All components are well-integrated, and the lingering finish suggests aging potential through the rest of the decade. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $65

90 Abbey Road Farm 2018 Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). This aromatically inviting

wine is sourced from the RainSong and Carlton Hills Vineyards. Scents of plum, fig and cassis seem to promise a rather hefty wine, but it lightens up in the mouth with a complex of fruit and spice flavors that call to mind Fig Newton cookies. In fact, it’s at a good point for near-term drinking right now, and should be enjoyed over the next three or four years. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $37

90 Benza 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This five-clone blend sports

juicy raspberry fruit, with delicate hints of coco-nut and vanilla from aging 10 months in 15% new French oak. Just the second vintage from this new estate, it’s a light, clean and quite lively wine that should show nicely over the next half decade. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

90 Brick House 2018 Select Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This is the winery’s most affordable

Pinot Noir, and it’s a blend of barrels from all the various estate-grown clones and vineyard blocks. It opens a bit rugged and tannic, with dominant flavors of chewy herbs and grape skins. Decanting helps, revealing tart mixed berries, and fine-tuning the overall balance. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $34

90 Trathen Hall 2017 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Forward and fruity, this brings

raspberries and blackberries, supporting acidity and balanced tannins. Overall it’s fairly light but complete and satisfying, with an underlying miner-ality. Some 40% of the ferment was whole clusters. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $28

90 Winter’s Hill 2018 Watershed Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Estate-grown Dundee Hills

Pinots are rare at this price. This palate-pleaser brings red berries, light fresh herbs and a hint of minerals into the mix. Partial whole cluster fermen-tation adds texture and length. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $25

89 A to Z 2017 The Essence of Oregon Pinot Noir (Oregon). For full review see page 19.

abv: 13.8% Price: $25

89 Duck Pond 2019 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A fine value, this affordable Willa-

mette Valley Pinot is worth hunting for (break out that duck whistle!). Pretty cherry fruit takes hold quickly, with mild acidity and light tannins. It’s fruit-driven and pleasantly light, perfect for early drinking with roast fowl. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

89 Territorial 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). Sourced from estate vineyards, this

wraps pretty cherry fruit in darker notes of smoke and espresso. Its 18 months in 20% new French oak is showing strongly now, along with just a hint of reduction expressed as a tinge of burnt rubber. Give

it a good airing out, or another couple of years of bottle age. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

89 The Four Graces 2019 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This melds together fruit from mul-

tiple Willamette Valley AVAs into a clean, aromatic and gulpable style. Even at this young age the bri-ary, peppery berry fruit is quite appealing, and the wine has already settled into a comfortable groove. It’s got a bit of stuffing also, and should be enjoyed over the next half decade. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

89 Winter’s Hill 2018 Block 9 Pommard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This tightens its flavor

focus, being both a select block and a single clone. The strawberry fruit has an earthy note, with a light hint of compost. The flavors expand broadly across the palate before heading down and through. The finish turns bitter, with suggestions of hard rubber and coffee grounds. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $54

88 Acrobat 2018 Pinot Noir (Oregon). One of the most widely available Oregon Pinots,

the Acrobat maintains its easy-drinking style while capturing the basic varietal character of the grape. Fruity berry flavors, moderate alcohol, balanced acidity and tamed tannins all bring this forward, pleasant wine into focus. Drink over the next half decade. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Duck Pond 2017 Front Yard Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). This is a block selection,

with light fruit flavors of mixed red berries. The overall structure is balanced but lacks depth and complexity, with modest acidity and little impact from barrel aging. Drink up. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

88 Duck Pond 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). The raspberry fruit is fresh

but falls on the thin side, without the sort of depth and complexity that a reserve designation implies. All in all it’s a balanced, fruity, simple wine that should be enjoyed within the next year. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

88 Ransom 2015 Cattrall Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This vineyard selec-

tion shows slightly faded flavors of strawberry and cherry. The vines date back almost four decades and bring delicate details of herb and stone into the mix. Best to drink this over the next two years. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

88 The Great Oregon Wine Company 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This middle-of-

the-road style brings light and fresh fruit flavors of strawberry, raspberry and cherry fruit, with high-lights of sassafras. A finishing lick of coffee wraps it up. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $30

BUYINGGUIDE


87 The Great Oregon Wine Company 2018 Coles Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir (Umpqua Valley).

There’s not much depth here, just light cherry and cola flavors. A whiff of vanilla and hints of mocha add some detail, and the wine does a quick fade, fin-ishing with slightly bitter tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

86 LifeVine 2019 Pinot Noir (Oregon). This is certified pesticide free, which is not the

same as organic. It’s a modest, astringent wine with light flavors of black cherry and cola. A slightly earthy streak runs through the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Ransom 2015 Selection Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This wine seems to be at or

slightly past its prime. Cherry cola fruit has a faded feeling, and the accents of leather and funk empha-size the sense that it should be consumed now. It finishes with a dash of lemon oil. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

85 Dough 2019 Pinot Noir (Oregon). The Ore-gon AVA may include fruit from anywhere

in the state. This is the first Pinot Noir from Dough, and it’s a simple wine which feels generic rather than specific to any well-defined place. Very light red berry fruit is balanced with clean acidity. Any barrel influence remains invisible. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $22

85 Ransom 2017 Jigsaw Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). Thin flavors of black cherry

have a sparkling soda-like mouthfeel, with none of the depth of the grape. It’s refreshing, simple and utterly ephemeral. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20

SYRAH

93 Troon 2018 Whole Cluster Fermented Syrah (Applegate Valley). This splendid reserve

encapsulates the many exciting changes at this pio-neering winery. Though the founder is long gone, the name remains, and now stands for biodynamic, soil-sensitive farming and innovative, cutting edge winemaking. Deep layers of boysenberry and black-berry fruit, a lovely touch of whipped cream and orange marmalade, and lingering streaks of clove and espresso are all in the mix in this focused, bal-anced, delicious wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

92 Cowhorn 2016 Reserve Syrah (Applegate Valley). Cowhorn’s reserves are given extra

bottle age before release—a good policy with wines such as this dark, earthy and aromatic Syrah. Tart, chewy boysenberry and marionberry fruit is in play, along with chewy tannins and a broad streak of vanilla. This would best be tucked away another few years or aggressively decanted prior to drink-ing. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $75

92 Troon 2018 Kubli Bench Syrah (Applegate Valley). Classic varietal flavors come with

the extra intensity of biodynamic farming practices. The southern Oregon sunshine gives Syrah a real boost throughout the region. It’s bursting with boy-senberry jam, brightened with citrusy acidity, and the flavors penetrate deeply down and through a lingering, clean finish. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Cowhorn 2016 Sentience Syrah (Applegate Valley). Varietally true, this proffers up the

classic blue and purple fruits and earthy tannins, along with plenty of astringent herbal accents. Hints of umami, including dried seaweed, can be sniffed and tasted along with prettier plummy fruit. It finishes with ample, rather sticky tannins. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $55

89 Day 2017 A Peridot Afternoon Syrah (Yam-hill-Carlton). Sourced from the Deux Vert

Vineyard, this includes 10% Viognier, presumably cofermented. It’s a delicate but deeply penetrating style, atypical for most Oregon Syrahs. Light, tart red fruits, citrus and a hint of leather push down and through, maintaining a fine balance in an evoca-tive, herbal finish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $34

OTHER RED WINES

92 History 2017 The Pines Vineyard Zinfan-del (Columbia Valley). Fruit for this wine

comes from the oldest vines in the Pacific North-west, planted in the late 1800s. Appealing aromas of raspberry, cranberry and baking spice are followed by a broad but sophisticated palate. It’s a tribute to the variety. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 15% Price: $65

91 History 2017 Windrow Vineyard Cabernet Sau-vignon (Walla Walla Valley). This side project

from the Oregon’s Stoller focuses on some of the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, with this one coming from the first commercial plantings in the valley (1981). It leans into the variety’s savory side, with aromas of fresh huckleberry, marionberry, nori, dark soil and whiffs of whole green pepper. The soft, supple flavors show sneaky intensity. It hangs on the finish. The oak is pulled back, letting the fruit shine. This is all about sophistication. Edi-tors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $75

91 Le Doubblé Troubblé 2019 Dry Hollow Vineyard Merlot (Columbia Valley). This is fascinat-

ing—an Oregon side of the Columbia Valley Merlot in a Rhône-shaped bottle released extremely early with the oak pulled way back. Aromas of red plum, muscat gummy and pomegranate lead to pleasantly pure, textured, layered fruit flavors. It’s a radically different interpretation of this variety. Give it a bit of additional time in bottle or decant to see it at its best. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $30

91 The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Pinot Meunier (Dundee Hills). Rarely bottled as a stand-

alone varietal, this grape is generally perceived as the sturdy relative of more elegant Pinot Noir. Here it’s surprisingly light in color and flavor, with a strong component of tack room leather. The rasp-berry fruit is bright and fresh, but the surrounding barnyard flavors tend to overtake it. Drink this over the next couple of years. —P.G. abv: 12.2% Price: $45

WASHINGTONCHARDONNAY

94 Valdemar 2018 DuBrul Vineyard Chardon-nay (Yakima Valley). Winemaker Marie-Eve

Gilla has consistently made some of Washington’s most delicious Chardonnay, and here at her new assignment working with some of the state’s best fruit, she takes it to another level. It’s all about sub-tlety, with aromas of apple, pear, spice and whiffs of pineapple. The palate is textured and flavorful, but it’s the balance that captivates. Structure, balance, texture, acidity: This wine has it all—a true accom-plishment for this winemaker and for the state. Edi-tors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $50

91 Saviah 2019 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Char-donnay (Columbia Valley). This wine comes

from the recently approved Royal Slope appellation, and the aromas show pleasing subtlety, with notes of pear, crayon and wet stone. The lightly creamy stone fruit flavors are light on their feet, bringing the bright acidity typical of the vintage. The bal-ance impresses, and it lingers on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

90 Gård 2018 Lawrence Vineyards Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). The aromas offer notes

of candlewax and crayon. There’s plenty of deftness to the lightly creamy flavors, keeping the interest high, with lovely balance to it all. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $28

89 Mercer Bros. 2019 Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Hills). Pear, apple and candlewax

aromas lead to light but creamy feeling peach fla-vors. There’s a mouthwatering aspect to it that ups the interest. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

88 Headturner 2018 Flyaway Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Hills). Panna cotta and

vanilla make up the aromas and the flavors. A creamy feel caps it off, along with a light medicinal accent. It finishes warm. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

GEWÜRZTRAMINER

92 History 2016 Mont Elise Vineyard Gewürz-traminer (Columbia Gorge). Fruit for this

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wine comes from some of the oldest vines in the Columbia Gorge, planted in 1968. Generous aromas of Mandarin orange, flower, lychee and ginger lead to just off-dry drinking, exquisitely balanced fruit flavors that are light on their feet but bring inten-sity. It’s gorgeous, exhibiting the area’s acidity and mineral streaks. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

89 Le Doubblé Troubblé 2019 Gewürztraminer (Columbia Gorge). Boom! The aromas

explode with notes of lychee, ginger and white flow-ers, bringing vitality. The palate drinks dry and is light on its feet but with plenty of flavor, with mouthwatering acidity that brings it home. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $30

87 Rocky Pond 2019 Clos CheValle Vineyard Gewürztraminer (Lake Chelan). The aromas

are reserved for the variety, with notes of lychee and flower. Light floral flavors follow, with the concen-tration not always seeming there. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $24

OTHER WHITE WINES

93 Valdemar 2019 Component Trial 019-A Sage-moor Vineyards Roussanne (Columbia Val-

ley). This is a classic example of the variety, with notes of pear, white peach, toast and savory spice. The palate is flavorful, broad and textured. The acidity balance is exquisite. It’s a standout. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $40

92 L’Ecole No. 41 2019 Semillon (Columbia Val-ley). For full review see page 19. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $15

91 Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Picpoul (Yakima Valley). For full review see page 13.


91 Saviah 2019 Estate Vineyard Viognier (Walla Walla Valley). Very varietal aromas of rich

peach, pear, spice and flower are followed by fuller-feeling but still restrained stone fruit flavors. The concrete egg fermenting shows, giving the wine pleasing mineral accents. It brings intriguing acid-ity for the variety. A long finish keeps the interest up. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.4% Price: $30

90 Calendar 2019 White Blend (Yakima Valley). Consisting mostly of Muscat Ottonel, the

aromas pop, with notes of Mandarin orange spritz, flower and honey. It delights by drinking just about bone-dry, remaining light on its feet, and bring-ing structure rarely seen for the variety. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

90 Callan 2019 Boushey Vineyards Grenache Blanc (Yakima Valley). For full review see


90 Kerloo 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). The aromas suggest notes of star

fruit, grass, tropical fruit and herb. Bright, light on their feet kiwi skin and pineapple rind flavors fol-low. It’s a very pretty, food-friendly offering. Pair it with halibut with a pineapple-kiwi relish. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

90 Rocky Pond 2019 Double D Vineyard Semil-lon (Columbia Valley). Fruit for this wine

comes from the young Rocky Reach region south of Chelan. Reticent pear aromas lead to textured stone fruit flavors. Lovely acidity stretches throughout. —S.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $24

89 Rocky Pond 2019 Double D Vineyard Rous-sanne-Marsanne (Columbia Valley). Fruit

for this wine comes from the Rocky Reach grow-ing region. A 50-50 blend, the aromas are light but the palate is broad feeling and textured, leading to a warm finish. There are a lot of good things hap-pening. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $24

88 Gård 2017 Grand Klasse Reserve Lawrence Vineyards Roussanne (Columbia Valley).

The aromas bring notes of toast and char that are quite prominent. Aromas of nut oil follow. The flavors are sleek and savory, with pleasing acidity. There are good things happening if the oak inte-grates. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

ROSÉS

88 Callan 2019 Rosé (Yakima Valley). Pale pink with an orange tint, this wine is 70% Cin-

sault and 30% Grenache. Aromas of strawberry and peach are followed by full feeling flavors that show some sweetness but with enough acidity to pull it off. —S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $NA

88 Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner Rosé (Washing-ton). Coming from an Idaho producer, this

pale salmon wine with a gold tinge could be vari-etally labeled as Mourvèdre. The aromas bring notes of apple and raspberry leading to tart, medium-bodied flavors. There’s a lot to like. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $19

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

93 Gramercy 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Aromas of mocha, pierc-

ingly pure cherry, graphite and cedar box lead to a textured, graceful palate. The style is very pulled back and is all about elegance and grace. It brings a fine sense of acidity and tannin structure. Pair it

with ratatouille. Best after 2025 with a very long life beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $95

93 Woodward Canyon 2018 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington). Dark chocolate,

barrel spice, vanilla, cherry and licorice aromas are followed by luscious black fruit flavors. There’s plenty of richness, texture and seamlessness along with a whole lot of structure. A long finish caps it off. It’s all about hedonism, but still possesses impressive balance, a classically Woodward styled wine. The oak is forward at present. Give it some time in the cellar or decant. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $99

91 Be Human 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum-bia Valley). For full review see page 13. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

91 Gård 2017 Winemaker’s Select Lawrence Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia

Valley). The aromas bring notes of raspberry com-pote, coffee and spice. Plentiful cherry and black licorice flavors follow, with the lightly grainy tan-nins giving a squeeze. Coffee notes linger on the fin-ish. This one needs time to be fully appreciated but has good stuffing. —S.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $85

91 Goose Ridge 2018 g3 Estate Grown Family Owned Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val-

ley). For full review see page 20. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.8% Price: $15

91 Headturner 2018 The Nerve Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Red Mountain). For full review see page


91 Rocky Pond 2017 Reserve Double D Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For

full review see page 15. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.7% Price: $59

90 10,000 Hours 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This wine is still wound

up tightly right now, with notes of toasty oak, herb and dark fruit. Blackberry and black cherry flavors follow. The tannins are tightly wound. There’s a lot of goodness to be had. Give it a decant. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Chasing Rain 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). For full review see page 16. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Roasted cof-

fee bean and dark chocolate aromas are upfront, with cherry behind. Lighter-styled vanilla and cof-fee flavors follow, with a pleasing sense of texture and balance. It’s a restrained offering of the variety.

BUYINGGUIDE


The oak plays a prominent part in the show but plays it well. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

90 Pambrun 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). The oak leads on the aromas

initially, with notes of vanilla in front of cherry and raspberry. The fruit flavors are bunched up right now, extending over time. It’s a light, pretty offering of this variety. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $70

90 The Soldier 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For full review see page

18. abv: 14.47% Price: $22

90 Woodward Canyon 2018 Artist Series #27 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington). This

wine isn’t ready to reveal itself right now, with locked up aromas of chocolate, cocoa, cherry and spice. Coffee and cherry flavors follow. Give it some additional time in the cellar to blossom. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

89 Gård 2016 Reserve Grand Klasse Lawrence Estate Wines Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia

Valley). The aromas offer notes of dark roasted cof-fee bean, green pepper, dried herbs, orange rind and cherry. Sleek coffee and cherry flavors follow. Coffee notes linger on the finish. Like a number of wines from this vintage, the fruit concentration is light, but what’s there is tasty. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

89 Mercer Bros. 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Blueberry and plum

aromas announce themselves. Ripe, plush flavors follow. Herb notes linger on the finish. There’s a pleasing sense of balance throughout. It’s hard to pin down as Cabernet, but who cares? —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

88 Bergevin Lane 2016 Moonspell Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). With this

100% varietal, aromas of gummy, cinnamon and cherry are followed by green pepper, vanilla and cherry flavors with a lightly grainy feel. Give a short decant. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

88 Marion-Field 2016 Toby Tylor Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). This wine

explores the variety’s greener, more savory side, with notes of stem, green and poblano peppers, flower, cocoa and cherry. There’s plenty of density to the flavors. It might be too green for some tastes, but there are good things happening. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $28

88 Old Tavern Farm 2018 Big Barn Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This wine

doesn’t seem to have fully settled in initially, with notes of asphalt, spice, cedar, cigar box and cherry cordial. Full-bodied fruit flavors follow, with all of

the structure that this appellation brings. Time will tell if the aromas and palate sync up. —S.S. abv: 15.33% Price: $24

88 Pamplin 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum-bia Valley). This is 100% varietal. The aro-

mas are wound up tight, and the palate is grainy and gritty right now. The concentration seems light, as with many wines from this vintage, but the acid-ity is impressive. Some time should bring it all together. Best after 2025. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

87 Kennedy Shah 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). The aromas bring notes of

brown and green stem, dried leaves, hay and plum followed by tart tobacco and hay flavors. The acidity of the vintage is primary. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Kennedy Shah 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (Yakima Valley). Aromas of vanilla,

garden fresh herb, tar, dried black currant and black cherry lead to a palate that paints around the edges. There’s brightness to the acidity, with the tannins giving a light squeeze. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $55

85 Stemilt Creek 2017 Thomas Cycle Mathison Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum-

bia Valley). Braised green pepper and black cherry aromas are followed by soft fruit flavors that bring a sense of elegance. Dried orange rind notes linger on the finish. The fruit seems quite underripe. —S.S. abv: 15.8% Price: $28

MERLOT

91 Chasing Rain 2018 Merlot (Red Mountain). For full review see page 13. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Mercer 2017 Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). Brooding dark raspberry aromas lead to

somewhat streamlined-seeming blueberry and plum flavors. The vintage’s acidity supports it all. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

88 Pambrun 2017 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Aromas of red apple skin, cream, cherry

cordial and raspberry gummy lead to center focused fruit flavors. It wants more around the edges. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $60

SYRAH

94 Valdemar 2018 Blue Mountain Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This is a flat-out

beautiful expression of valley Syrah. The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of blueberry, plum and herb. The palate brings weight and vol-ume but never gets bogged down, showing plenty of deftness and dexterity. The balance throughout is

captivating as is the exceptionally lengthy, flavorful finish, kicking it up a notch. Gorgeous stuff. It wins on grace, balance and sneaky intensity rather than brawn. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $75

93 Valdemar 2018 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page 10. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 13.9% Price: $65

93 Valdemar 2018 Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Rocks District wines

are sometimes known for their brawn and outra-geousness. This example shows the area is plenty capable of making wines focused on grace and finesse, too. The aromas are brooding, with notes of moist earth, blue fruits, plum and orange rind. The palate is rich in flavor and silky soft in feel, loaded with blue fruit flavors. The balance is exquisite and the length impressive. It’s a very pretty, classy offer-ing from the area but with no shortage of hedonism. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $75

92 Gramercy 2017 John Lewis Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This wine is light in color for

the variety and vintage. The aromas bring notes of peat, dried stem and moist soil. The elegant, tex-tured smoked meat flavors meanwhile are all about grace and precision. A lingering finish follows. As always with this producer, it’s a wine intended to be enjoyed with food. Pair it with grilled lamb chops. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: NA Price: $87

92 Saviah 2018 The Funk Estate Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This Syrah is cofermented

with 4% Viognier, and its aromas are bright, with notes of fresh orange zest, black olive, medicine, smoked meat and firepit. Soft, plush, velvety flavors follow. Orange rind notes linger on the finish. It has a juicy feel that ups the interest. The Viognier plays a prominent role at present. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $65

91 Maison Bleue 2018 Frontière Funk Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see


91 Saviah 2018 The Stones Speak Estate Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This wine is a clas-

sic expression of Rocks District fruit, with notes of green olive tapenade, chopped parsley, flower, orange rind, soot and, of course, a whiff of funk. Broad, expansive medicine and olive flavors follow, showing intensity and depth. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $55

90 Maison Bleue 2018 Gravière Stone Valley Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Bright

aromas of berry, gummy and cherry along with whiffs of smoke are followed by fruit flavors that bring purity. The balance is lovely. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

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90 Maison Bleue 2018 Voyageur LeFore Vine-yard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Coming

from a Rocks District vineyard known for its quality but never the area’s signature funk, this producer’s fruit-forward style is on display. Fresh berry, orange rind, flower and gummy bear aromas lead to elegant, pure fruit flavors. It’s a vivid display of this area and vineyard. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

90 Saviah 2018 Reserve Syrah (Walla Walla Val-ley). The aromas are reserved, with notes

of green olive, cigar box, medicine and firepit. Sleek plum and savory flavors follow. It’s pleasing, but all seems quite pulled back. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

89 Saviah 2018 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes

of ember, funk, plum and coffee. With fruit coming from Watermill, Funk, Lewis and Anna Marie vine-yards, the palate is more elegantly styled but still flavorful. It’s a very pulled back, pretty expression of the variety. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

89 Saviah 2017 Lewis Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). Firepit and Kalamata olive aromas

are followed by pillowy soft smoke and medicine fla-vors. It brings plenty of goodness, but the medicinal notes distract. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $50

88 Mercer 2017 Reserve Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). Aromas of forest floor, brown stem,

red apple and flower are followed by light, grace-ful fruit flavors. It’s part intrigue, part delivery, with good things happening, but the concentration seems light. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

88 Stemilt Creek NV Boss Lady Adelaide AJ Mathison Estate Grown Syrah (Columbia Val-

ley). The aromas offer notes of cocoa, sweet barrel spice and red fruit. The palate is light but flavorful, tapering toward the blue fruit-filled finish. There’s less concentration than the listed abv would sug-gest. —S.S. abv: 15.8% Price: $28

87 Claar 2018 White Bluffs Vineyard Estate Grown & Bottled Syrah (Columbia Valley).

Light aromas of plum and wood spice are followed by somewhat lighter-styled black pepper and plum flavors. The concentration seems a bit light at times, but what’s there pleases. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

RED BLENDS

93 Matthews 2018 Cuvée (Columbia Valley). This is a new offering from this long-time

winery, a blend of 60% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sau-vignon and 19% Cabernet Franc. The aromas take some time to get going, with notes of cocoa powder, barrel spice, dark chocolate, cherry and whiffs of

green pepper. Ripe black currant and raspberry fla-vors follow, bringing layering and seamlessness. It sticks around for a long time on the raspberry- and cocoa-filled finish. It is absolutely delicious. Edi-tors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $34

93 Matthews 2018 Reserve Cuvée (Columbia Valley). This is the inaugural release of this

wine, with Merlot making up just under three-quar-ters and the rest Cabernet Franc (16%), Cabernet Sauvignon (8%) and Petit Verdot (2%). Still set-tling in, baking spice aromas are out front, followed by notes of cinnamon and raspberry. Fruit and bar-rel intertwine on the palate. It needs time, but the stuffing is all there. Best after 2024. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $85

92 10,000 Hours 2018 Red Blend (Red Moun-tain). For full review see page 10. Editors’


92 History 2017 Red Blend (Columbia Valley). Coming from some of the oldest vines in the

Pacific Northwest, this wine is 71% Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, 20% Malbec and 9% Merlot. The aromas are pulled back, with notes of plum, dried leaves, cherry and whiffs of tar. The flavors are plump, joyful and well-balanced, with an emphasis on purity. It’s a testament to old vine fruit—and all about sophisti-cation. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

92 Rocky Pond 2017 La Domestique Reserve Double D Vineyard (Columbia Valley). For

full review see page 11. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

91 Grounded Wine Co. 2018 Collusion (Columbia Valley). The aromas bring notes of caramel,

plum, tobacco and cherry. The luscious, plump, juicy fruit flavors have more than enough acid-ity and tannin structure to hold them up. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $23

91 Saviah 2018 Une Vallée Red Wine (Walla Walla Valley). This is 69% Cabernet Sauvignon,

20% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc. With fruit coming from McClellan, Pepper Bridge, Anna Marie and Eritage vineyards, the aromas bring notes of plum, blue fruit, earth, dried and fresh herbs and flowers. Soft, lighter-styled coffee, cherry and choc-olate flavors follow. It’s all about grace. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $40

90 Pambrun 2017 Chrysologue (Walla Walla Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up

three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Merlot (17%) and Cabernet Franc. Reductive aromas domi-nate initially, with notes of asphalt and wet tar fol-lowed by plum, blue fruits and berries. The palate shows flashy fruit flavors and acidity of the vintage. Time should bring it all together. The stuffing is there. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $65

90 Rickshaw 2018 Red Blend (Washington). For full review see page 18. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 14% Price: $16

90 Saviah 2017 Big Sky Cuvée (Columbia Val-ley). Merlot makes up half of this wine,

Cabernet Sauvignon a quarter, and the rest Cab-ernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The aromas intrigue, with notes of wet rock, cigar box, dark chocolate and cherry. The flavors bring pleasing restraint but also plushness—a winning combina-tion. Medicinal notes linger on the finish. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Be Human 2018 Red Blend (Columbia Val-ley). This vintage offers a bounty of fruit,

and this wine is a great example of it. Aromas of light toasty oak meld with plum, leading to boun-tiful black currant and raspberry flavors. There’s pleasing balance throughout. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

88 Chasing Rain 2018 Red Blend (Red Moun-tain). Aromas of chocolate and cherry lead

to soft fruit flavors. There’s a lot of structure sur-rounding them, upping the interest. Decant if drink-ing in the near term. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Elevation Cellars 2013 Monolith (Columbia Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 70%

of this wine, with the rest Merlot (14%) and near equal parts Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. The aromas bring notes of dried herbs, cel-ery salt and dried cherry. Tire rubber and cherry fla-vors follow, with the tannins showing some astrin-gency. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $41

88 Gård 2017 The Don Lawrence Estate Wines (Columbia Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon

makes up a little more than three-quarters of this wine, with the rest Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Mer-lot and Malbec. The aromas offer notes of cherry, tobacco and mesquite, not seeming entirely settled. The flavors are pulled back, surrounded by bright acidity and smoky flavors. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

88 Stemilt Creek NV Earthen (Columbia Valley). Cocoa, green pepper and baking spice aro-

mas are followed by broad, seamless flavors of green pepper, cherry and a bit of smoke. Pleasing acidity enlivens it. —S.S. abv: 15% Price: $15

87 Elevation Cellars 2013 Jammin’ Red Blend (Columbia Valley). This wine is 68% Cab-

ernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec. The aromas bring notes of fresh garden herbs, hay, cocoa, cherry and dark chocolate. Despite the age, the palate is bunched up and short. It brings surprising acidity given the warmth of the vintage. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

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87 Mercer Bros. 2018 Edge of Heaven (Horse Heaven Hills). Plum, medicine and asphalt

aromas are followed by plump, fleshy blue fruit, green herb and smoke flavors that paint around the edges. The medicinal notes provide some distrac-tion. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

85 Next 2017 Red Blend (Columbia Valley). Aro-mas of smoke and Vicks VapoRub lead to

flavors that are plump around the edges and lighter in the middle. —S.S. abv: 13.74% Price: $13

OTHER RED WINES

92 Woodward Canyon 2018 Estate Barbera (Walla Walla Valley). This variety is an

extreme rarity in the state let alone in the valley, though this producer has been making it for more than 20 years. The fruit-forward notes of cherry, dark raspberry and bramble capture the attention. Bright, tart, acidity-driven flavors deliver. It’s thor-oughly delightful. Pizza anyone? Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

90 Saviah 2017 Tempranillo (Walla Walla Val-ley). Fruit for this wine comes from Funk,

Dugger Creek and Watermill Estate vineyards. The aromas bring notes of funk, roasted coffee bean, fresh and dried tobacco and ember. A savory, grace-ful, dried tobacco-filled palate follows. It’s equal parts intrigue and delivery. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

89 Mercer 2017 Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills). The aromas are reserved, with notes of

plum and dried herbs. Plump but still light, appeal-ing fruit flavors follow, dipping in the middle. Pleas-ingly bright acidity accent it. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

89 Mercer 2016 Petit Verdot (Horse Heaven Hills). The aromas offer notes of garden

herbs, blue fruit, crushed plum, orange, flowers and vanilla, with the vanilla and plum flavors being bal-ance and polish. The variety’s acidity keeps it all in focus, though the oak gets a bit out front. —S.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $32

88 Palencia 2016 El Viñador Petit Verdot (Wah-luke Slope). The aromas are bright, with

notes of raspberry, cranberry and green herbs. The palate brings a whole lot of acidity and tannin. A warm, chocolate-filled finish caps it off. —S.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

87 Elevation Cellars 2016 Black Peak StoneTree Vineyard Tempranillo (Wahluke Slope). Aro-

mas of vanilla, baking spice, wood and cherry lead to vanilla-laden, creamy-feeling flavors backed by astringent tannins. The oak gets far out in front of the fruit. —S.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $38

86 Stemilt Creek 2017 Successive Generations Estate Grown Cabernet Franc (Columbia Val-

ley). The aromas offer notes of dried tobacco, dried orange rind, cherry and barrel spice. Creamy-feel-ing, lightly smoky flavors follow. It all seems a bit dried out. —S.S. abv: 15.4% Price: $30

IDAHOWHITE WINE

90 Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner White Wine (Snake River Valley). For full review see


RED WINES

88 Huston 2018 Malbec (Snake River Valley). Asphalt aromas are at the fore and eventu-

ally give way to green pepper, orange essence, exotic spice and loose gravel. Reserved, bunched up fruit flavors follow. The tannins give a grip, and the acid-ity is bright. It’s not clear where it’s all going. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $32

87 Huston 2019 Chicken Dinner Red (Idaho). Fruit-forward aromas of plum, huckleberry

and dried herbs lead to tart, center-focused green pepper and cherry flavors with some tart acidity behind them. There are good things happening, but it comes off as a bit green. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $18

VIRGINIACABERNET SAUVIGNON

90 Keswick Vineyards 2016 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Monticello). Boysen-

berry and black currant are savory on the nose with subtle aromas of tea and white pepper. It’s bright upfront on the palate with blackberry and crunchy cranberry flavors. There’s plenty of tart acidity, and the midpalate slides into green tobacco leaves and oak tones before diving into a spicy and peppery fin-ish developing more vanilla and black plum flavors. —F.A. abv: 14% Price: $75

87 Casanel 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Middleburg). Aromas of blackberry and

plum are inviting on the nose. The palate displays juicy notes of cranberry and more blackberry. Tan-nins are gritty but balanced well by bouncy acidity leading to a long peppery finish laced with rasp-berry. —F.A. abv: 13% Price: $38

86 Pearmund 2016 Silver Creek Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Virginia). The nose com-

bines peppercorn, red plum and cherry notes. The wine is full of leather and tobacco flavors sharpened

by tart pomegranate on the palate. It finishes spicy with prickling tannins hugging the tongue. —F.A. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

85 The Williamsburg Winery 2018 John Arundell Cabernet Sauvignon (Virginia). This opens

with intense notes of overripe berry on the nose. The palate is pure cotton candy and blue raspberry hard candy carrying through the finish where it’s met by a hint of vanilla. —F.A. abv: 14.3% Price: $14

84 Vint Hill 2017 Covert Wineworks Bombshell Cabernet Sauvignon (Virginia). Aromas of

black currant and blackberry lead to raspberry and herbs on the palate. Bright acidity keeps this pleas-ant enough and easily sippable. —F.A. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

CABERNET FRANC

89 The Williamsburg Winery 2017 Trianion Cabernet Franc (Virginia). Fresh cranberry,

raspberry and just picked violet blend together on the nose. The palate combines cranberry and goji with black tea and leather. A persistent banana pepper note tangos with the tannins. This is a high energy Cab Franc with streamlined acidity. —F.A. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

88 Narmada 2016 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Vir-ginia). The nose delivers cedar and muddled

raspberry with a subtle hint of rubber. The palate is rich in Virginia tobacco and cedar with a blend of black cherry and pomegranate fruit flavors. The tannins are dry and supportive, balanced by ample acidity. —F.A. abv: 13.4% Price: $38

83 Horton 2016 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). The aroma offers notes of cranberry and cherry

while the palate delivers balsamic soaked raspberry and cherry with sharp acidity. —F.A. abv: 13% Price: $18

RED BLENDS

90 Rosemont 2017 Kilravock Signature Red (Virginia). Raspberry and cranberry aromas

take on a floral edge on the nose. The palate echoes and amps up those notes, adding vanilla and tin-gling spice. The tannins are firmly structured and the acidity is perfectly balanced, adding just enough verve with a long lingering finish. —F.A. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Lovingston 2017 Josie’s Knoll Rotunda Red (Monticello). Cherry aromas ride notes of

new leather and cedar planks. Bouncy and crisp acidity brighten cherry and wild raspberry flavors, and tannins are supportive, carrying leather, cedar and tobacco flavors through the finish. —F.A. abv: 13% Price: $23

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88 Revalation 2017 Village (Virginia). Aromas of black plum, blackberry and leather com-

bine to form the nose. The palate mirrors the nose, adding tobacco and black pepper notes with firm dusty tannins forming the structure. —F.A. abv: 13% Price: $31

87 Pearmund NV Black Ops (Virginia). Cassis and black cherry meld with leather on the

nose. The palate is loaded with plum and cranberry with bright acidity. Tannins are gentle leading into a spicy finish with rich oak tones. —F.A. abv: NA Price: $39

86 Veramar 2018 JB Terracotta (Virginia). Cran-berry and apple peel form the nose. The pal-

ate offers tart acidity, red apple and red plum that are juicy upfront but lead to slightly unruly tannins and rubber on the finish. —F.A. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

84 James River 2015 Monitor VS. CSS Virginia (Virginia). Black cherry aromas are reminis-

cent of cough syrup. The palate delivers black plum tied to tangy acidity, with notes of cedar and leather along with dusty tannin. —F.A. abv: NA Price: $24

OTHER RED WINES

90 Early Mountain 2017 Quaker Run Vineyards Tannat (Virginia). For full review see page

17. abv: 15.3% Price: $45

90 Keswick Vineyards 2017 Estate Reserve Touriga (Monticello). Aromas of blueberry

and wild raspberry introduce this utterly delightful wine and are joined by notes of crushed herbs. The palate is slick, loaded with crushed granite plus for-aged raspberry and blackberry. The acidity vibrates like cold steel while tannins play the strong but quiet type. It finishes with dried and candied violet and tart cranberry. —F.A. abv: 15% Price: $35

89 The Williamsburg Winery 2017 Limited Release Norton (Virginia). A fascinating

nose of rooibos tea creates instant intrigue joined by subtle aromas of rose hip and goji berry. The pal-ate is juicy, offering up cranberry, more goji berry, dried apple slices and baking spice. Tea tannins are cohesive and well structured, while plenty of tart acidity keeps it bouncy and lively through the fin-ish. —F.A. abv: 12% Price: $36

88 Casanel 2016 Estate Carmenère (Middle-burg). Black fruits blend with green and

black pepper aromas on the nose. Savory and tart on the palate, the acidity is angular, bolstering the cranberry and cherry flavors. The tannins are dry and well mannered, much like the tobacco and leather tones leading to the red apple and peppery spice finish. —F.A. abv: 12.5% Price: $60

88 Horton 2017 Pinotage (Virginia). Cranberry, cherry and raspberry aromas show just a

whiff of red meat and rubber. The palate opens with ripe fruit but sprints toward raw tobacco and oak tones that overwhelm toward the finish that hits with a kick of spice. The tannins are dry, and the acidity is balanced. Very enjoyable, this shows off the potential of Pinotage in the state. —F.A. abv: 12% Price: $20

88 Narmada 2017 Tannat (Virginia). Fresh tobacco wraps around cranberry on the

nose. Leather and cedar take the lead on the pal-ate, punctuated by pomegranate and raspberry. The tannins are dry and build steam toward the finish with gentle yet balanced acidity and a peppery note at the end. —F.A. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

85 Gray Ghost 2017 Petit Verdot (Virginia). Weathered oak and stale peppercorns form

most of the aroma. Flavors of fresh black pepper and cherry introduce the palate. The tannins are drying and dampen the charm of the acidity and fresh fruit flavors. The finish is all cigar wrapper and tingling pepper. —F.A. abv: 13.9% Price: $35

NEW YORKCHARDONNAY

91 Jamesport 2018 Saddleback Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). A rich nose of sea

spray, citrus cream, blanched almond, chamomile and yellow plum starts off this delightful Chardon-nay. The medium-bodied palate is silken in feel yet drawn out by a taut line of acidity. Flavors of lemon peel, white blossoms and lemongrass are lifted and pure, with a delicate white tea note extending on the textured finish. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

91 Trestle Thirty One 2017 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Ripe lemon and yellow plum aromas

are dotted with accents of sea spray, citrus cream and white blossoms in this Chardonnay, of which about a third sees time in French oak. The palate is creamy and concentrated in juicy yellow fruit, with ample lift from bright acidity and a seared lemon note that lingers on the close. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $32

90 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Chardonnay (Fin-ger Lakes). For full review see page 20. Best

Buy. abv: 13% Price: $15

90 Hosmer 2018 Chardonnay (Cayuga Lake). A surprising result from such a difficult vin-

tage, this white offers bright aromas of peach and yellow apple that are shot through with a blossomy white flower accent. A small portion of this wine saw time in barrel, yielding a gentle roundness to the medium-bodied palate. There’s ample lift to

the crisp orchard fruit flavors, making this a clean, affable wine that many will enjoy. —A.P. abv: 12.6% Price: $16

90 Hound’s Tree 2017 Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). Aromas of blossomy white

flowers, crushed salt and lime peel carry the driven nose. There’s a gentle creaminess to the medium-bodied palate, with savory elements of blanched almond and salt leading over gently seared lemon. It ends nutty yet lifted. —A.P. abv: 13.4% Price: $26

90 Hound’s Tree 2017 Highwire Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). Zesty aromas

of lemon and lime peels ride over delicate creamy yeast in this unoaked Chardonnay. There’s a gentle creaminess to the medium-bodied palate, filled out by juicy flavors of yellow apple and pear. A mild salty accent gives some pleasing depth to an other-wise brisk expression. —A.P. abv: 11.8% Price: $18

90 One Woman 2017 Estate Reserve Chardon-nay (North Fork of Long Island). Aromas

of brûléed lemon, fresh citrus peels and sea spray are energetic and lifted on the nose of this barrel-aged Chardonnay. There’s a silky richness to the medium-bodied palate, yet it’s driven by a taut line of acidity that extends to the finish. A delicate frame of toasty spice accents the crisp fruit, making this a well-balanced offering. —A.P. abv: 12.8% Price: $42

89 Fox Run 2019 Doyle Family Chardonnay (Seneca Lake). For full review see page 21.

Best Buy. abv: 12.9% Price: $13

89 Living Roots 2018 Orchards of Seneca Char-donnay (Finger Lakes). Delicate aromas of

lemon peel and pineapple open up as this wine sits in the glass. There’s admirable breadth and juiciness to the fruit on the palate, with a gentle creaminess undercut by lifted acidity and a dash of crushed salt. Overall, it shows nice energy and lift, ending with citrus and warm spice accents. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $22

89 Millbrook 2018 Proprietor’s Special Reserve Chardonnay (New York). Rich aromas

of chamomile, peach and pineapple carry to the weighty, unctuous palate. For all that weight, there’s a taut texture and bright acidity to lift it all up, mak-ing this a well-balanced, creamy white. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $25

89 Pellegrini Vineyards 2016 Vintner’s Pride Estate Grown Unfiltered Chardonnay (North

Fork of Long Island). There’s depth and richness to this barrel-fermented and barrel-aged Chardonnay. Luscious yellow plum, lemon and melon flavors are wrapped in a toasty, warm spice embrace. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 Anthony Road 2018 Unoaked Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Mildly coiled aromas of

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lemon-lime and pear carry the nose. This is light in feel, with streamlined citrus and apple flavors filled out by a gently creamy yeast note. It ends lifted and bright on a burst of citrus. —A.P. abv: 12.2% Price: $16

88 Bright Leaf 2018 Reserve Chardonnay (Fin-ger Lakes). A mild nose of butterscotch,

lemon and crushed salt carries the nose of this Chardonnay. Seeing time in both stainless steel and oak, the wine has a creaminess on the palate as well as some toasty spice. The citrus fruit takes on a brûléed character, ending taut and lifted. —A.P. abv: 13.2% Price: $18

88 Jamesport 2019 76 Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). Quiet aromas of banana and

melon meld with a gentle butter cookie accent on the nose. There’s ample juiciness to the light- bodied palate, with tart lemon and apple flavors framed by quiet, savory accents. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $37

88 Lamoreaux Landing 2019 Reserve Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). A

slightly brûléed lemon note melds with fresh melon and sea spray in this Chardonnay. There’s pleasing creaminess to the palate, with lifted acidity pushing it along. —A.P. abv: 13.1% Price: $20

88 Lamoreaux Landing 2018 Reserve Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Aro-

mas of lemon and pear meld with a slightly brûléed lemon tone, which adds richness and depth to the nose. There’s a subtle creaminess to the delicate palate, with pear, apple and citrus flavors pushed along by balanced acidity. —A.P. abv: 12.9% Price: $20

88 Lenz 2015 Old Vines Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). Billowing aromas of

pineapple, melon and peach carry the nose of this Chardonnay. It’s rich and fruity on the palate, with a gentle creaminess that is immediately pushed aside by racing acidity. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $30

88 Wölffer 2018 Perle Chardonnay (The Hamp-tons, Long Island). Aromas of blanched

almond, yellow plum and crushed salt are rich on the nose. The wine’s creamy and rounded in feel on the palate, driven by a juicy yellow fruit that’s dotted with savory, salty elements. For all its plush-ness, it has bright acidity in equal measure. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

87 Buttonwood Grove 2017 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Coconut and lemon curd aromas are

at the fore in this oaked Chardonnay, which has a juicy pineapple note at the core. It’s creamy in feel yet lifted by bright acidity, with a sheen of oaky spice riding over the lusciously fruity core. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $30

87 Heron Hill 2018 Ingle Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Lifted aromas of

lemon peel, crushed stone and pear carry the nose. There’s a gentle creamy, yeasty note on the medium-bodied palate, lifted by juicy flavors of yellow apple and lemon. A final burst of citrus-laden acidity lends brightness to the close. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $18

87 Pellegrini Vineyards 2017 Estate Grown Char-donnay (North Fork of Long Island). Charred

citrus and toasted hazelnut carry the nose. The medium-bodied palate is linear and focused, with brisk lemon and seared yellow plum flavors ending with a flurry of toasty spice. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Pindar Vineyards 2019 Sunflower Special Reserve Chardonnay (North Fork of Long

Island). Perfumed aromas of jasmine and peach carry the nose. The delicate palate shows more of the same, with a slightly soapy floral tone arising on the midpalate. Lemony acidity arises toward the finish to cinch things up. —A.P. abv: 12.6% Price: $22

87 RGNY 2018 Scielo NY Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). A tiny portion (2%) of

this wine was aged in French oak and 20% went through malolactic fermentation, yielding a white that blends both creamy and fresh elements. But-terscotch, lemon peel and pear are carried along by bright acidity and supported on a gently creamy frame. —A.P. abv: 12.4% Price: $25

87 Wagner 2019 Unoaked Estate Bottled Char-donnay (Finger Lakes). Aromas of banana,

guava and pear carry the fruit-laden nose. It’s light in feel on the palate, with flavors of mixed tropical fruit lifted by bright enough acidity. It’s enjoyable for its straightforward, easy nature. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

87 Wagner 2018 Reserve Estate Bottled Char-donnay (Finger Lakes). Quiet aromas of but-

terscotch and pear carry the nose. It’s rather light in feel, with lifted lemon and apple flavors wrapped in a slightly toasty sheen. It’s balanced well by bright acidity, ending savory and creamy. —A.P. abv: 12.1% Price: $18

87 Wölffer 2019 Chardonnay (Long Island). This rich yet balanced Chardonnay displays

creamy melon and pear flavors balanced by lifted citrus. It’s straightforward in its appeal, but is a composed, complete package that will please many. —A.P. abv: 13.2% Price: $18

86 Atwater 2017 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Aromas of yellow plum and lemon carry a

slightly toasty edge on the nose. The medium-bod-ied palate is rounded in feel, lifted by bright shots of lemony acidity. It ends creamy and savory, with a mild toasty grip. —A.P. abv: 13.1% Price: $18

86 Bedell 2018 Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). A streamlined nose of lemon, pine-

apple and steel starts off this zesty white. It’s light and crisp on the palate, with demure peach and pineapple flavors that end with a creamy, yeasty vibe. —A.P. abv: 11.5% Price: $30

86 Bright Leaf 2018 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). A faint nose shows just hints of pear and

crushed stone. The palate is rounded in feel yet light on its feet, displaying delicate citrus and orchard fruit flavors. It ends savory and yeasty, but with enough lift from bright acidity to bring balance. —A.P. abv: 13.2% Price: $16

86 Heron Hill 2019 Unoaked Chardonnay (Fin-ger Lakes). The nose shows a perfumed jas-

mine element mixed with apple and pear. There’s punch and gusto to the juicy yellow apple and lemon flavors on the medium-bodied palate, but it ends short. —A.P. abv: 12.9% Price: $14

86 Pellegrini Vineyards 2019 Stainless Steel Estate Grown Chardonnay (North Fork of

Long Island). Bright, zesty aromas of lemon and lime peels meld with a bit of creamy pear on the nose. The medium-bodied palate is soft in feel, with mellow orchard fruit flavors lifted by gentle acidity. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $20

86 Stony Lonesome 2018 Unoaked Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Perfumed aromas of apple,

pear and lemon drive the nose and palate, with a gentle creaminess filling it out. It’s a bit low in verve on the clipped finish. —A.P. abv: 11.6% Price: $15

86 Wagner 2019 Reserve Estate Bottled Char-donnay (Finger Lakes). A delicate nose

of coconut and banana shows in this Chardonnay that has seen some time in older American oak. It’s light on its feet, with easy melon and citrus flavors decently balanced by bright acidity. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

85 Point of the Bluff 2018 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Rich aromas of lemon furniture pol-

ish and preserved lemons carry the nose and palate. It shows an astringent, drying feel that’s decently held in check by some nice creaminess. —A.P. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

83 Harbes 2019 Steel Chardonnay (North Fork of Long Island). Muddled aromas of citrus

and candied apple carry a yeasty funk on the nose. The palate is light in feel, with a slight lemon tone shining through a blanket of savory accents. —A.P. abv: 12.7% Price: $22

83 Stony Lonesome 2018 Barrel Fermented Reserve Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Not

a lot of fruit emerges on the nose, with a struck match aroma that holds court. It shows some gentle

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creaminess on the palate, with bright enough acid-ity to lend balance, but candied flowers and savory yeast tones are the dominate flavors. —A.P. abv: 11.4% Price: $25

SAUVIGNON BLANC

90 Hector Wine Company 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Seneca Lake). Playful aromas of

passion fruit, guava and gooseberry meld with a crushed stone element on the nose. There’s nice ampleness to the medium-bodied palate, with a taut line of acidity holding all the fruit in check. A gentle pithiness cinches it up, lending good tex-ture to an otherwise delightfully fruity yet balanced wine. —A.P. abv: 12.6% Price: $18

90 One Woman 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Ripe pear and tart

pineapple aromas are cut with freshly chopped herbs on the nose. The medium-bodied palate shows plenty of juicy orchard and tropical fruit fla-vors, yet remains taut and polished, rounded out by some gentle creaminess. —A.P. abv: 12.9% Price: $28

90 Wölffer 2019 Antonov Sauvignon Blanc (Long Island). Bright aromas of pineapple

and lemon meet a touch of herbal spice on the nose. There’s weight and roundness to the palate, filled out by plenty of juicy pineapple and yellow plum flavors. Herbal, peppery spices chime in on the mid-palate to ground all that fruit, while a tangy line of fresh acidity extends from start to finish. —A.P. abv: 13.2% Price: $30

89 Buttonwood Grove 2019 Fumé Blanc (Finger Lakes). Zesty aromas of lemon-lime pop-

sicle, gooseberries and peppery herbs start off this crisp white. It’s light in feel yet lifted by loads of tangy citrus on the palate. There’s a pleasing purity to it all, with some delicate creamed citrus lingering on the close. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $22

89 Jamesport 2019 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Aromas of

juiced pear, fresh green herbs and a bit of earthy, warm spice carry the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. About a third of this wine sees time in large for-mat Italian botti, which lends some roundness and spice to the palate, yet the taut orchard-fruit flavors are the main focus. A slightly briny edge adds some savory appeal to the finish. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $23

88 Bedell 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Demure aromas of lemongrass

and crushed stone lead to the juicy, spritzy palate. Ripe pear and yellow plum flavors show nice round-ness, with just enough citrusy acidity to lend bal-ance. It’s light in style, but utterly refreshing. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $30

88 Pindar Vineyards 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Pear, melon

and lemon peels are lifted and pure on the nose and carry to the juicy, light-bodied palate. Spritzy acid-ity lends ample lift, with the fruit lingering nicely on the finish. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

87 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Finger Lakes). Straightforward aromas

of pear, pineapple and gooseberries carry to the medium-bodied palate. There’s real weight and heft to the fruit, with just enough acidity to tie it up. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 One Woman 2016 Estate Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Ripe yel-

low plum, lemon-lime popsicle and fennel frond aromas grace the nose. There’s silkiness to the medium-bodied palate, with a stony mineral note pushing through alongside tart fruit. It ends slightly hot and peppery. —A.P. abv: 12.9% Price: $32

87 Saltbird 2017 Migratus Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Aged in French

oak for six months, this white offers tones of creamy melon, yellow plum and candlewax. There’s not much intensity to the fruit on the palate, but what’s there is enjoyable for its fruity and savory elements. —A.P. abv: 13.1% Price: $27

86 Glenora 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Seneca Lake). Mild aromas of lemongrass, candied

melon and pear carry the nose. This is light in feel, with zesty, fresh acidity outlining the crunchy cit-rus and pear notes. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $19

86 RGNY 2018 Scielo NY Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Crunchy green

pear, seared lemon and grass clippings carry the delicate nose. The palate is demure, not giving much away beyond pithy yellow fruit all honed by bright acidity. —A.P. abv: 12.9% Price: $27

84 Pellegrini Vineyards 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). There’s a green,

leafy quality on the nose, riding over tones of green pear, citrus peels and wet moss. The palate is light in feel, with citrus and melon flavors wrapped in a peppery, grassy note. A green peppercorn accent arises on the finish. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $25

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

91 Lenz 2015 Estate Selection Pinot Gris (North Fork of Long Island). This medium-bodied

white starts off with zesty aromas of crushed stone, lime peel and white blossoms. There’s rounded, juicy weight on the palate, yet still a tautness to the yellow plum and pear fruit that comes off slightly

waxy. Bright acidity shines through, with a gentle creaminess lingering on the close. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

90 Bedell 2019 Pinot Gris (North Fork of Long Island). From young vines planted in 2016,

this wine is a triumph. Bright, zesty aromas of yel-low apple, Meyer lemon and honeysuckle are con-centrated and lifted on the nose. There’s a gentle roundness to the light-bodied palate, with juicy, plush apple and lemon flavors that don’t falter from start to finish. A bit of pithy waxiness lends some grip to an otherwise delightfully fruity wine. —A.P. abv: 11.5% Price: $25

90 Red Newt Cellars 2017 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Lemon and lime peel aromas meld

with depths of honeysuckle and honeycomb wax on the nose. There’s a pleasing silkiness to the medium-bodied palate, with ample acidity lending lift. A gentle waxy lemon-rind note lingers on the close of this textural white. —A.P. abv: 12.1% Price: $17

89 Living Roots 2018 Golden Bosc Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Ripe yellow plum, apple,

honeysuckle and honeycomb wax aromas carry to the billowy, textured palate. There’s a gentle waxi-ness to the fruit flavors on the rich, medium-bodied palate, with just enough acidity for lift. It ends with some floral bitters. —A.P. abv: 13.7% Price: $22

88 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2019 Pinot Gris (Fin-ger Lakes). Apple, pear and lemon peel

aromas are zesty and brisk on the nose. There’s a pleasing roundness to the palate, with plenty of taut acidity and juicy orchard fruit flavors to lift it up. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $17

88 Hector Wine Company 2018 Pinot Gris (Sen-eca Lake). Aromas of juiced apple and pear

meld with a bit of warm spice tones in this Pinot Gris that’s partially aged in neutral French oak. Firmly medium in weight, there’s roundness to the juicy orchard fruit on the palate, with a gentle wrapping of warm spice. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $18

88 Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2018 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Aromas of fresh apple and

honeysuckle carry the delicate nose. There’s a gen-tle roundness to the medium-bodied palate, with juicy orchard fruit flavors wrapped in a bit of dry honeycomb and white flowers. —A.P. abv: 12.2% Price: $15

87 Atwater 2018 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Brisk aromas of lemon-lime popsicle and red apple

carry to the medium-bodied palate. There’s taut-ness to the acidity and texture, holding all that juicy fruit in check, but it ends rather quickly. —A.P. abv: 13.1% Price: $18

87 Bedell 2019 Small Batch Series Corey Creek Vineyard Pinot Grigio (North Fork of Long

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Island). This bright, fruity wine is driven by banana, pineapple, pear and apple on the nose. There’s a gentle creaminess to the palate, where the orchard fruit flavors are demure and are lifted by a mild vein on acidity. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $25

87 Lakewood 2018 Gigliotti Vineyards Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). There’s a distinct white but-

ton mushroom aroma to this wine, which adds a pleasing earthiness to the citrus and pear fruit. It’s light in feel but properly lifted by refreshing acid-ity. —A.P. abv: 11.85% Price: $15

86 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Pinot Gris (Fin-ger Lakes). There’s a slightly candied vibe

to the brisk aromas of apple, pear and lemon on the nose. It’s light in feel on the palate, with brisk orchard fruit flavors that end a bit short. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $17

85 Glenora 2019 Pinot Gris (Finger Lakes). Aro-mas of candied lemon and lime peels meld

with a bit of savory yeast on the nose. It starts off creamy on the light-bodied palate, lifted by brisk flavors of yellow apple and citrus, with sharp acid-ity and more savoriness arising on the finish. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $15

85 Penguin Bay 2019 Pinot Grigio (Finger Lakes). Aromas of juiced pear and a hint of

warm spice lead to the juicy palate. The flavors are a bit muted, but what’s there is nice. —A.P. abv: 11% Price: $16

84 Wölffer 2019 Cellar Series Pinot Gris (Long Island). There’s not a whole lot of fruit

intensity to this white, giving just hints of citrus and apple away. Texturally, it shows some round-ness that’s held in check by taut acidity. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

GRÜNER VELTLINER

89 One Woman 2019 Grüner Veltliner (North Fork of Long Island). Defined aromas of

peach, apple and white pepper grace the nose. There’s admirable concentration of fruit on the medium-bodied palate, with taut stone fruit flavors honed by a pithy texture. It ends lifted in acidity, with a final kick of peppery spice. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Weis 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Finger Lakes). A fresh, vibrant nose of lemongrass, white

pepper and peach leads to the slightly rounded, light-bodied palate. Juicy stone fruit flavors are lifted by bright, sunny acidity, ending on a crisp, fruity finish. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $19

88 Zugibe 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Finger Lakes). From vineyards planted in 2007, this brisk

white offers crisp tones of lime peel, tart apple and

peppery spice. It’s a refreshing, streamlined expres-sion that does justice to the Austrian variety. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

87 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Finger Lakes). A fruity explosion of peach

and pineapple starts this off, with accents of white pepper and lemongrass grounding it all. The light-bodied palate offers brisk flavors of gooseberry and tart tropical fruit, all honed by an integrated vein of acidity. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2018 Grüner Veltliner (Finger Lakes). Rather light on fruit on the

nose, this Grüner shows hints of lemon peel along-side peppery spice. There’s some nice juiciness to the citrus and yellow apple fruit on the palate, with crisp acidity leading the way. —A.P. abv: 12.6% Price: $16

86 Hosmer 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Cayuga Lake). Faint aromas of lemon peel, white

pepper and green herbs carry to the streamlined palate. This is brisk and light in profile, with a short, savory finish. —A.P. abv: 12.2% Price: $16

ALBARIÑO

89 Bedell 2019 Albariño (North Fork of Long Island). Peach, apple and white flower aro-

mas are bright and pure on the nose, dotted with a hint of sea spray. This is crisp and juicy on the palate, showing rounded orchard fruit flavors lifted by lots of lemony acidity. The fruit gracefully lingers on the finish, making this quite easy to enjoy. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $40

89 Fjord 2019 Albariño (Hudson River Region). Perfumed aromas of peach, pineapple and

white blossoms show pleasing depth on the nose. There’s heft to the palate, with citrus and floral flavors holding court but wavering slightly on the midpalate. Overall, this is a fruity, bold wine that many will enjoy. —A.P. abv: 13.9% Price: $23

86 Billsboro 2019 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Albariño (Finger Lakes). Lemon and peach

aromas are covered in a savory blanket of yeast on the nose. The palate is streamlined in feel, driven by racy acidity that leads to a lingering lemon-juice tone. —A.P. abv: 12.7% Price: $24

85 Jamesport 2019 Estate Albariño (North Fork of Long Island). An odd geranium tone

distracts from the juicy pineapple and peach core of this wine. It’s light in profile, with tart, lemony acidity driving the palate. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $37

OTHER WHITE WINES

91 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Amber Rkatsiteli (Finger Lakes). For full review see page 14.

abv: 12% Price: $40

91 Hector Wine Company 2019 Pinot Blanc (Sen-eca Lake). Ripe yellow plum and apple aromas

are met with gentle warm-spice accents on the nose of this Pinot Blanc that was fermented and aged in French oak. It’s rounded and rather full in feel, with juicy yellow fruit leading the way but grounded by more delicate warm spices, candlewax and a gentle floral kick. —A.P. abv: 12.6% Price: $20

90 Lieb 2019 Estate Pinot Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). A portion of this white is

sourced from vineyards planted in 1983, making them some of the oldest on the North Fork. It kicks off with cohesive aromas of ripe yellow apple, pear, jasmine and lemongrass. These tones echo on the medium-bodied palate, where rounded, juicy fruit is met with bright, zesty acidity. —A.P. abv: 11.9% Price: $20

88 Atwater 2017 Skin Ferment Gewürztraminer-Vignoles (Finger Lakes). Billowing aromas

of ripe peach, jasmine, oolong tea and honeycomb carry the nose of this blend of Gewürztraminer and Vignoles that spent 14 days on the skins. The palate is dry, with a gentle smokiness surrounding flavors of peach and white flowers. Juicy acidity and a thin blanket of tannins frame it all, making this an inter-esting orange wine expression. —A.P. abv: 12.7% Price: $32

88 Bedell 2019 Viognier (North Fork of Long Island). This blossomy, floral wine offers

jasmine, honeysuckle and peach backed by accents of lemon and pine. The palate lands softly, with a pillowy feel that’s still adequately lifted by bright acidity. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

88 Pindar Vineyards 2019 Dr. Dan’s Signature Collections (North Fork of Long Island).

Bright aromas of white blossoms, candied lemon peels and orchard fruit carry the nose of this blend of Viognier, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Ries-ling. Juicy citrus and yellow plum flavors are housed on a juicy, easy-to-like palate. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

87 Pindar Vineyards 2019 Viognier (North Fork of Long Island). This billowy white offers

peach, apricot and white flower tones dusted in some bubblegum spice. There’s good balance to it all, making it an enjoyable choice as an aperitif. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

85 One Woman 2019 Chenin Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). Initially this doesn’t give

much away, eventually showing sharp aromas of melon and guava. The palate leans more blossomy,

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with slight elements of lemon and melon. It ends short and savory. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $28

83 Wölffer 2019 Cellar Series Semillon (Long Island). Aromas of green bell pepper, jala-

peño and za’atar spice carry the nose. The palate is lean in feel, with sharp acidity leading the way. It ends hot. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

OTHER AMERICASPARKLING WINE

90 Battle Creek NV Yamhela Vineyard Blanc de Noir (America). This was given an Ameri-

can label, but don’t be fooled—this is all Willamette Valley fruit. Strawberry and raspberry aromas lead to bright, fresh flavors. There’s a lot to like. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

ROSÉ

87 Steamboat Winery 2019 Ranch Dog Rosé (America). Made from Sonoma County-

grown Pinot Noir in a Colorado-based winery, this pink wine is light, crisp and simple, the palate tex-ture steely and metallic. Flavors range from orange and grapefruit to wild strawberry. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

90 Bieler Family 2018 Born To Run Cabernet Sauvignon (America). For full review see

page 20. Best Buy. abv: 13.9% Price: $12

89 Steamboat Winery 2017 The Antlers Caber-net Sauvignon (America). Tight and thick

in tannins, this wine is concentrated in dust, sage and cedar highlights that ride along a palate of dense, chewy blackberry and cherry. The oak is pro-nounced and adds to the length and breadth. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $39

88 Steamboat Winery 2017 River Angler Cab-ernet Sauvignon (America). Made from

Cabernet Sauvignon and a sizable amount of Cab-ernet Franc, this wine opens with inviting aromas of baking spice and blackberry, flavors that follow through on the dense, chewy palate. It is deeply rich in chocolate and vanilla notes. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $28

PORTUGALWHITE WINES

DOURO

93 Quinta das Carvalhas 2019 Carvalhas Branco (Douro). This wine is rich and wood aged,

full of apricot, pear and fresher lime flavors. These are highlighted by the toastiness, the spice and vanilla as well as the mineral texture. The wine is still young, so wait until 2022. Vinofiamma. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

93 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2019 Mirabilis (Douro). From old vineyards

dominated by Viosinho and Gouveio, the wine is serious, wood aged and rich. Concentration comes from the old vines and has been channeled into the white fruit and toasty flavors. The wine is still young, intense and should age. Drink from 2022 Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $88

90 Wine & Soul 2019 Guru (Douro). From old white vines and aged in wood, this is a

dense wine, with strong minerality from the schist soil and a tight texture. The wine needs to age with its rich kiwi fruitiness and tense acidity. Drink from late 2021. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

89 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2019 Grainha Reserva (Douro). The second

range from this great estate in the Douro’s central Cima Corgo region is easily accessible when young. This fruity, lightly oaked wine exemplifies this char-acteristic, with its fine mix of citrus, peach and vanilla flavors. Drink the wine from late 2021. Ter-roir Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

89 Wine & Soul 2019 Manoella Branco (Douro). Produced from old vines, this crisp, apple

flavored and textured wine is already delicious. But it will be even better as the taut character softens slightly, so wait to drink until late 2021. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $22

88 Real Companhia Velha 2019 Quinta dos Aciprestes Branco (Douro). Ripe, creamy

textured with a line of citrus flavors, this is a fruity wine. Its fresh acidity, zesty lemon and ripe apple flavors are refreshingly bright. The wine is ready to drink. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Real Companhia Velha 2018 Quinta do Síbio Arinto (Douro). The wine’s freshness is still

complete and is exemplified by the bright apple acidity and the tangy citrus character. The wine is pure fruitiness, ready to drink now. Vinofiamma. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

DÃO

92 Quinta da Taboadella 2019 Reserva Encru-zado (Dão). This rich, partially wood-aged

wine is finely textured, with smooth yellow fruits and a well-judged spiciness from the wood aging. It is ripe while also having great freshness, acidity and crispness at the end. Drink from late 2021. Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

87 Broadbent 2019 Broadbent White (Dão). Fruity, with a fine creamy touch, this wine is

perfumed and ripe. The wine’s tangy character adds lemon to the green-apple fruitiness and luminous aftertaste. Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

ALENTEJANO

92 Luis Duarte 2019 Rubrica (Alentejano). Antão Vaz and Verdelho go with a dash of

Viognier to produce a fine rich, floral and wood-aged wine. Its lemon and apricot fruits give crisp-ness and ripeness at the same time promising more time before maturity. Drink from 2022. Specialty Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

91 Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Ravasqueira Premium Branco (Alentejano). A year in wood

has enriched this fine blend of Viognier, Alvarinho, Arinto and Marsanne. Richly textured, showing great white fruits, citrus and hints of tropical flavors, the wine will need a few more months to reach its peak. Drink from late 2021. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

89 Luis Duarte 2019 Rapariga da Quinta Colheita Seleccionada Branco (Alentejano). This wine

celebrates crisp fruit, bright acidity and fine fresh apples and citrus. The wine has a majority of Antão Vaz along with Roupeiro and Arinto; its crisp-ness and fruitiness work well together. Drink now. S pecialty Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

LISBOA

93 Quinta do Pinto 2016 Grande Escolha (Lisboa). Portuguese blending is sometimes a mys-

tery. How did Chardonnay, Marsanne, Roussanne and Sémillon end up in one wine? Except that it works effortlessly with a wine that is now mature, boasting pineapple, apricot and spice flavors in an impressive combination. The wine is ready to drink. Cru Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $34

90 Companhia das Quintas 2017 Quinta de Pancas Reserva Chardonnay (Lisboa).

Oak-aged Chardonnay, now mature, this wine has touches of tropical fruits to match its creamy

BUYINGGUIDE


texture and spice from the wood aging. Full bod-ied and opulent, this fine wine is ready to drink. H ungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Quinta do Pinto 2018 Viognier- Chardonnay (Lisboa). Rich, smoothly textured ( although

with just a tang of bright acidity), this is a wood-aged wine with a fine balance. Acidity and fresh lemons contrast with the wine’s riper apple and pear flavors in a blend that will age further. Drink from 2022. Cru Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $34

88 Companhia das Quintas 2019 Quinta de Pan-cas Branco (Lisboa). Crisp and fruity, this

pineapple-flavored wine is ripe while cut with cit-rus flavors to give freshness. It is lively, perfumed and ready to drink. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Quinta do Pinto 2018 Reserva Arinto ( Lisboa). The wine, still young, was wood aged giving

both rich toastiness and tropical fruits. The combi-nation doesn’t quite work, as it is unbalanced and showing too much woodiness. Cru Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $28

84 Adega Mãe 2019 Lisboa Valley Selection (Lisboa). Crisp, and with almost too intense

acidity, this lemon-flavored wine is herbal and really fresh. Drink this tight, bright wine now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

OTHER WHITE WINES

92 Quinta do Pinto 2018 Arinto (Alenquer). The wine is produced from Arinto, the l ocal

white hero grape. Partially wood aged and with beautiful ripe apricot and toast flavors, the wine is impressive, ripe and ready to drink. Cru Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24

90 Herdade do Esporão 2019 Esporão Reserva (Alentejo). For full review see page 17.

abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Valados de Melgaço 2019 Reserva Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). A tense, richly fruity wine,

this has a fine balance and poise. Fresh apples and citrus flavors are allied with a mineral texture in a wine that is tight, perfumed and would benefit from a few more months. Drink from late 2021. Sommtable.com. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

90 Valle Pradinhos 2019 Reserva Branco (Trás-os- Montes). Even for Portugal, home of the

blended wine, this is unusual. Riesling, Gewürztra-miner and Malvasia come together in a perfumed wine, spicy with lychee flavors as well as crisper acidity and minerality. The fascinating blend

holds together well, and the wine is ready to drink. Vintage Wine Marketing. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

87 Broadbent NV Vinho Verde. The freshly sliced apple fruitiness combined with citrus acid-

ity give this fruity wine an attractive lively charac-ter. It is tangy, crisp and ready to drink. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 9% Price: $10

86 Quinta do Pinto 2019 Vinhas do Lasso ( Alenquer). A fruity, ripe blend of Arinto

and Fernão Pires, this is light and bright. Crisp acid-ity gives a fine lift of acidity and freshness. Drink the wine now. Cru Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

ROSÉS

87 Real Companhia Velha 2019 Síbio Rosé ( Douro). With a ripe blend of Touriga Nacio-

nal and Touriga Franca, this is a full wine, now soft and open, with a warm red-fruit character. Acidity comes through at the end. Drink now. Vinofiamma. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

86 Broadbent NV Rosé (Vinho Verde). With its light prickle on the tongue, this off-dry rosé

is fresh and fruity. There is an attractive red-berry fruitiness that is touched by baked apple at the end. Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $10

PORTUGALRED WINES

DOURO

95 Casa Ferreirinha 2017 Quinta da Leda ( Douro). The wine comes from a quinta in the Douro

Superior that forms part of the blend for the iconic Barca Velha wine. This wine shows the same pedi-gree and richness, with a beautiful balance and restraint. The black fruits are still vivid and need to soften further into the concentrated tannins. This is a wine for serious aging and should not be drunk before 2024. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

95 Quinta das Carvalhas 2018 Carvalhas Old Vines (Douro). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14% Price: $100

95 Wine & Soul 2017 Pintas (Douro). An impressive wine, concentrated from old

vines in a field blend, this is set for long-term aging. The tannins are rich rather than dry—a reflection of the succulent fruits and the massive structure. This wood-aged wine needs to age much longer. Drink from 2024. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $115

94 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2017 Grande Reserva (Douro). Blending

Touriga Nacional and 100-year-old vines, this wine is impressively rich. Dusty tannins give a rich struc-ture that will certainly allow the wine to age further. The dense black fruits, with touches of licorice are also ready to continue to mature. Drink from 2024. Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $123

94 Real Companhia Velha 2015 Quinta dos Aciprestes Grande Reserva Talhão 14 Touriga

Nacional (Douro). Produced from a small parcel of 25-year-old vines known as Talhão 14, this wine is finely balanced and impressive in its richness. The wood aging and dark fruits have produced a great Touriga Nacional, perfumed structured, with intense black-currant fruits and some gracious freshness at the end. Drink from 2022. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $75

94 Real Companhia Velha 2014 Quinta dos Aciprestes Grande Reserva Sousão (Douro).

Revealing the rich tannins the Sousão variety can produce, the wine is complex and ripe. Dark, smoky tannins are still firm but show well against the blackberry fruits and acidity. The wine is not showing any sign of aging yet, so drink from 2022. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

94 Wine & Soul 2018 Pintas (Douro). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.5% Price: $115

94 Wine & Soul 2017 Quinta da Manoella Vinhas Velhas (Douro). Old vines, at least 100 years

old, have yielded their bounty of dense concentra-tion and powerful rich fruits. The wine’s structure is still dry, with a solid core of tannins that will soften into a very fine, ripe wine. Drink from 2024. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $115

93 Companhia das Quintas 2014 Uniqo Grande Reserva (Douro). Blending Tinta Roriz and

Touriga Franca with just a touch of Touriga Nacional, this powerful wine has dark tannins and smoky fla-vors from the mature fruits. Secondary flavors, spice and acidity have comfortably come together in this fine, generous wine. Drink now. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $60

93 Quinta das Carvalhas 2016 Carvalhas Touriga Nacional (Douro). This is a finely textured

wine, just approaching maturity but its tannins and perfumes are impressive. The spectacular vineyard on the southern bank of the Douro has given a ripe wine, packed with black fruits and with a fine future. Drink from 2022. Vinofiamma. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $75

93 Quinta do Pessegueiro 2017 Douro. This estate, near São João de Pesqueira on the

southern bank of the Douro, has produced a struc-

WINEMAG.COM | 69

tured and firm wine. Its big tannins are balanced by the black-currant fruits and spice from wood aging. It’s a fine wine, rich and just approaching maturity. Drink now or from 2022. Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

93 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2017 Referência Grande Reserva (Douro). A

blend of old vines and rich Tinta Roriz, the wine is powerful and still carries plenty of aging poten-tial. The wine’s structure and the rich licorice and black-plum flavors are underlined by the 12 months of wood aging. The result is a powerful, dense wine that should be ready from 2023. Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $123

93 Wine & Soul 2018 Quinta da Manoella Vinhas Velhas (Douro). Centenarian vines from a

vineyard in the depths of the Pinhão Valley have produced an immense wine. It is dark, with choco-late flavors and powerful tannins. But it does also have a layer of black fruits that will come through strongly. Drink the wine from 2024. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $115

92 Fiuza 2018 Casa d’Arrachella Grandes Quintas Colheita (Douro). This is a luscious wine,

rich with opulent black fruits and generous cush-ioned tannins. There is a succulent character as well, giving a wine with power and simultaneous charm. Drink from 2023. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

92 Wine & Soul 2018 Pintas Character (Douro). From old vines in the Vale de Mendiz, above

the Pinhão river, this wine has dark fruits that are laced with the freshness of acidity. There is a strong minerality here—a wine that bursts with richness and black-chocolate flavors. Drink the wine from 2023. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $37

92 Wine & Soul 2017 Manoella (Douro). Choco-late and black-coffee flavored and with a

considerable dark texture, the wine has richness and concentration. It is still young, the black-plum flavors and acidity still pounding their way through the tannins, so it does need to age, Drink from 2022. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $115

92 Wine & Soul 2017 Pintas Character (Douro). For full review see page 12.

abv: 14.5% Price: $37

91 Casa Ferreirinha 2018 Callabriga (Douro). Named after a Roman city that existed in the

Douro region, this wine is impressively balanced, rich with both tannins and vanilla flavors. They go with the perfumed blackberry fruits and the wine’s sophistication. Drink from 2022. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

91 Quinta das Carvalhas 2016 Carvalhas Tinta Francisca (Douro). Produced from one of

the less familiar varieties in the Douro, the wine is smoothly textured, with poise and attractive acid-ity. Red-berry fruits shine through the wine, bring-ing acidity as well as lightness. The wine is ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $60

91 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2018 Reserva Terroir Blend (Douro). This is a mas-

sive wine, solid with tannins as well as young fruit. It comes from a blend of different parcels, aged for six months in wood. The wine has concentration and structure, both of which need to soften. Drink from 2023. Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

91 Quinta Vale d’Aldeia 2018 Xaino Selection (Douro). Rich and juicy, this is a powerful

wine. Tannins and concentrated dark fruits are right up front. The fruit, black currants and black-plum skins are dense but kept fresh by the wine’s perfumed acidity. Drink from 2023. Leo’s Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

91 Real Companhia Velha 2018 Quinta dos Aciprestes Reserva (Douro). This estate on

the south bank of the Douro is marked by a line of cypress trees (Aciprestes). The wine is dense with tannins that are still young and are just beginning to soften. With its rich black fruits, this fine wine will be generously ready to drink from 2023. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91 Wine & Soul 2018 Manoella (Douro). For full review see page 15. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 14% Price: $22

89 Quinta das Carvalhas 2016 Tinto (Douro). Now, a smoothly textured wine, this is rich

with black fruits that have opened out to give ripe acidity and a rich poise. The wine is ready to drink. Vinofiamma. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $15

89 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2018 Grainha Reserva (Douro). Aged in a

mix of French and American oak, this is made to be a wine that matures quickly. Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca are blended into a smooth wine that has juicy black fruits, with fresh-ness as well as a core of structure. The wine will be ready from 2022. Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29

89 Quinta Vale d’Aldeia 2015 Xaino Grande Reserva (Douro). Definitely mature now,

this wine is rich with secondary flavors. Its tannins, though, do suggest that it is beginning to dry out, having almost reached its tipping point into old age. So enjoy the dense structure, the perfumed under-growth flavors now. Leo’s Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

88 Broadbent 2019 Red (Douro). Lightly struc-tured, this wine brings out fruitiness as

well as some firm tannins It is elegant and bright. A mineral texture gives the wine a good bite at the end along with the fruitiness. Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Delaforce 2017 Red (Douro). This soft, red-fruit flavored wine is easy on the palate.

With an attractive balance between fruit and sus-taining tannins, the wine has reached its peak and is ready to drink. Signature Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

88 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2019 Unoaked (Douro). As its name indi-

cates, this wine was matured in tanks rather than wood. That has brought out ripe black fruits as well as an earthy character that will soften as the wine ages. Its perfumed fruitiness is already promising good things—just give this wine until 2022. Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $21

87 Companhia das Quintas 2016 Uniqo (Douro). Soft and fruity, the wine is now ready to

drink. Its berry fruits have softened into the tannins to give a wine that is rounded with a fresh edge of acidity. Drink now. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2019 Pomares (Douro). An open, accessible

wine with ripe berry fruits and soft tannins, this is full of fruitiness and layers of acidity. It needs a few months to soften and fully integrate, so drink from late 2021. Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

86 Real Companhia Velha 2018 Porca de Murça (Douro). Four grapes go into this attractive

blend with its soft tannins and open texture. It is fresh, with red-berry fruits and a readily accessi-ble character. Drink now. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Real Companhia Velha 2017 Quinta de Cîdro Touriga Nacional (Douro). The firm tannins

of this wine are still densely up front, masking the black-currant fruits. The wine seems to be heavily extracted, with some bitterness as well as dark-chocolate flavors. It could soften, but will remain tough. Vinofiamma. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

LISBOA

95 Companhia das Quintas 2016 Quinta de Pancas Grande Reserva (Lisboa). Still young

and still showing its immense power and structure, this is a seriously wood-aged wine. That means it will need time to fully develop to match the opulent

BUYINGGUIDE


black fruits and concentration. Drink this fine wine from 2023. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $60

94 Quinta do Pinto 2017 Syrah (Lisboa). This is a spicy, lusciously fruity wine. Rich black-

berry flavors are sustained by the tannins and the succulent acidity and texture. Aged for 18 months in wood, the wine was selected from what the pro-ducer considered a fine harvest. Drink this generous wine from 2022. Cru Selections. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $28

94 Quinta do Pinto 2016 Grande Escolha ( Lisboa). This rich blend of Merlot, Petit

Verdot and Touriga Nacional is bold and bighearted, with rich tannins as well as dense black-plum and damson fruits with layers of acidity. A powerful wine, fully textured and with a dark structure, this could age further. Drink from 2022. Cru Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

93 Companhia das Quintas 2017 Quinta de Pancas Reserva (Lisboa). Produced from

a selection of fruit, this wine is a blend of Caber-net Sauvignon, Alicante Bouschet and Syrah. It is dense, deeply structured, full of dark-plum and damson fruits that are shaped by the tannins. The wine has fine potential, and should not be touched before 2022. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

92 Companhia das Quintas 2016 Quinta de Pancas Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon

(Lisboa). Ripe, wood-aged and now just ready to drink, the wine has all the fruity character of Cab-ernet Sauvignon, black currants and intense acid-ity. That goes with the structure that is still in place while leaving plenty of room for the vibrant fruits. The wine, still full of fruitiness, is ready to drink but could certainly be held until 2022. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

90 Companhia das Quintas 2015 Quinta de Pan-cas Grande Reserva (Lisboa). Dominated by

Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon, it is no surprise that this wine shows dense tannins. The fruit seems to be going missing and only comes through slowly as the wine opens up. To get the full effect of this wine’s power, it needs to be decanted. Drink from 2022. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $60

90 DFJ Vinhos 2018 Portada Reserva (Lisboa). For full review see page 20. Best Buy.

abv: 12.5% Price: $12

89 Companhia das Quintas 2018 Quinta de Pancas Tinto (Lisboa). This is the estate

wine from this historic vineyard. It is fruity, juicy with red-berry flavors and tannins that are still young. The wine’s black- currant flavors burst from the glass, promising plenty of aging. Drink this attractive wine from 2022. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $18

88 Adega Mãe 2019 Dory (Lisboa). Named after fishing boats, the wine is an eclectic blend of

four varieties, including Syrah and Pinot Noir. The result is perfumed, ripe and softly texture. Wood-aging flavors bring some dryness to the wine’s gener-ous fruitiness but they will soften. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

88 Companhia das Quintas 2018 Tradição Reserva (Lisboa). Aged in wood, this

smooth vanilla and black-fruit-flavored wine is solid, structured while also having generous fruiti-ness. The combination gives a wine that will shortly be very drinkable, ripe, full bodied and approach-able. Drink from late 2021. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 DFJ Vinhos 2019 Paxis (Lisboa). Three Douro varieties, grown in the Lisboa region, go into

this wine. That gives it some structure, although not too much to mask the blackberry fruits. So the wine is a little young, but it will certainly be ready from late 2021. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

88 DFJ Vinhos 2018 Pedras do Monte (Lisboa). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tinta

Roriz has produced an elegant, lightly structured and wood-aged wine. Ripe tannins and juicy black fruits come together in a wine that is ready to drink. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

88 Quinta de S. Sebastião 2019 Mil Caminhos (Lisboa). This is a smoothly textured and

vibrantly fruity wine. Red fruits shine through the light texture to give attractive freshness, red-berry flavors and acidity. The wine is ready to drink. Wein Bauer Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

87 Adega Mãe 2019 Lisboa Valley Selection Red (Lisboa). The wine is both structured and

generously rich. The tannins and wood-aging flavors are cushioned by the ripe black fruits to give a wine that has a soft texture and is open and ready to drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

87 DFJ Vinhos 2019 Portada Winemaker’s Selection (Lisboa). While the wine has a fine

balance between fruit and light tannins, it also has a cool streak of acidity that comes from a vineyard location influenced by the Atlantic Ocean. It is an attractive, fruity wine that is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

86 DFJ Vinhos 2019 Casa do Lago (Lisboa). One of the multi-varietal wines that are a

s pecialty of this producer, the wine is finely bal-anced. Red fruits and a succulent texture are fresh-ened by the wine’s crisp acidity and fresh aftertaste. Drink now. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

86 Quinta de S. Sebastião 2019 Janela Branca (Lisboa). A spicy blend of Syrah and

Castelão, this wine (red, despite the word Branca in the name) has obvious wood aging that needs to integrate better with the red fruits before it is ready to drink. Give it until late 2021. Wein Bauer Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

85 DFJ Vinhos 2019 Coreto (Lisboa). Six grapes go into this soft, fruity blend. Red fruits and

a light tannic structure are matched by the bright acidity and fruity aftertaste. Drink now. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $9

TEJO

93 Fiuza 2019 Ikon Touriga Nacional (Tejo). The top wine from this producer is rich, dense

and an impressive exposition of Touriga Nacional. The wine’s structure and dry core go with the black-plum fruits and the mineral texture. This has a way to go, so drink from 2023. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $54

92 Fiuza 2019 Reserva Premium Alicante Bous-chet (Tejo). Eight months of wood aging

bring out the richness, the dark color and the dense perfumes of the Alicante Bouschet. Dusty tannins, eucalyptus perfumes from the wood aging and considerable potential mark the wine. Drink from 2023. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

91 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2017 Bridão Colheita Seleccionada Trincadeira (Tejo). One

in a well-matured range of single-variety wines from this cooperative, this wine is wood aged and is rich with tannins, spice and deliciously appetizing fruit. The wine could do with a few more months, so drink from late 2021. Wine Enterprises LLC. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $12

90 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2016 Bridão Colheita Seleccionada Alicante Bouschet

(Tejo). The richness and dark color of the Alicante Bouschet is readily apparent in this wine. It has the right power and density and black-plum flavors. After time in the bottle, everything has smoothed out to produce a solid wine, ready to drink. Watch the alcohol. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $12

89 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2017 Bridão Colheita Seleccionada Touriga Nacional

(Tejo). Aged for nine months in wood, this struc-tured wine is still young. The black-currant fruits and vibrant acidity are right up front, juicy and with tannins that should soften further. One in a well-matured range of single-variety wines from this producer, the wine should be ready from late 2021. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

WINEMAG.COM | 7 1

89 Fiuza 2019 3 Castas Reserva (Tejo). The three Castas—the three grape variet-

ies—are Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet and Sousão. Together, they bring structure and dense fruitiness. The wine is rich, still with some dry tan-nin along with the black currant and vanilla flavors. Drink from late 2021. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Fiuza 2019 Touriga Nacional (Tejo). The wine has a fine core of tannins that give

shape to the rich black fruits. Pure Touriga Nacio-nal, it is perfumed and with ripe blackberry flavors, the wine is juicy and will be ready to drink from late 2021. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16

88 Fiuza 2019 Oceanus Reserva (Tejo). A blend of Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet,

the wine is perfumed with violets and blackberry fruits. On the palate, it is densely textured, smooth and already drinkable. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2017 Bridão Merlot (Tejo). Lightly tannic and with jammy

red fruits, the wine is soft, open and ready to drink. The acidity gives the wine the freshness and under-lines the fruitiness. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $7

86 Fiuza 2019 Silent Oak (Tejo). The wine is all about bright red-berry fruits. Juicy and

touched with mint and spice, the wine has a light core of tannins. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2017 Bridão Syrah (Tejo). This earthy wine has tannins as

well as black fruits. The wine’s structure is perhaps too prominent at this stage, masking the red-fruit flavors. Drink now. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $7

ALENTEJANO

95 Luis Duarte 2017 Rubrica (Alentejano). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14.5% Price: $50

94 Monte da Ravasqueira 2017 Ravasqueira Premium (Alentejano). This is an impres-

sive wine, perfumed from wood aging and with powerful dark fruits and densely rich textures. The wine is just beginning, still packed with tannins. The wine’s future is assured. Drink from 2023. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $50

93 Luis Duarte 2018 Rapariga da Quinta Reserva (Alentejano). For full review see page 9.

abv: 14.5% Price: $25

93 Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Alentejano. The wine’s blend takes its cue from the wines of

the northern Rhône Valley in France. As there, the white Viognier mitigates the tannins of the Syrah. This wine is powerfully rich with its impressive tannins and layers of black fruits. Concentrated and with serious tannins at this stage, the wood-aged wine will be ready from 2023. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Luis Duarte 2018 Rapariga da Quinta Colheita Seleccionada (Alentejano). Wood aged for

six months, the wine has generous black fruits that have been smoothed and given added complexity by the wood. This is a rich, damson-flavored wine, the tannins cushioned by the generous fruits. Drink from 2022. Specialty Cellars. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16

90 Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Ravasqueria Touriga Franca (Alentejano). This grape,

normally found in the Douro, makes a perfumed appearance in the Alentejo. The wine’s ripe tan-nins give density while bringing out red fruits and a fresh edge. Sourced from two parcels, the wine will be ready from 2023. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

86 Companhia das Quintas 2019 Portal da Vinha (Alentejano). This fresh and fruity

wine is lightly touched by wood and sports vibrant, youthful red fruits. It is immediately attractive and immediately drinkable—a wine packed with fruiti-ness and a light texture. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

OTHER RED WINES

93 Valle Pradinhos 2018 Reserva (Trás-os -Montes). From the far northeast of Portugal,

north of the Douro Valley, this wine is full bodied, packed with blackberry fruits and has the structure to allow it to age. A blend that includes 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon gives tannins, structured fruit-iness and aging potential. Drink from 2023. Vintage Wine Marketing. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

87 Companhia das Quintas 2017 Barão de Figueira Reserva (Beira Interior). From a

vineyard created by a maybe real, maybe legendary baron, Barão de Figueira, this wine is fresh and full of red fruits with bright acidity. It is ready to drink. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

PORT

94 Quinta das Carvalhas NV 20 Year Old Tawny Port. For full review see page 7.

abv: 20% Price: $60

94 Quinta das Carvalhas NV 40 Year Old Tawny Port. Dense, rich and so concentrated, this

Port is has turned wood aging into acidity and Eng-lish-toffee flavors. If it also has a medicinal edge, that is just right for the kind of wine that can only be sipped and meditated upon. Drink now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $175

94 Quinta das Carvalhas 2018 Vintage Port. For full review see page 7.

abv: 20% Price: $70

94 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2018 Vintage Port. Old vines form the basis

of this impressive, rich and certainly ageworthy wine. Pepper, spice and massive black fruits are lightened by acidity. The Port is on the dry side, with a core of firm tannins to contrast with the prunes and wood flavors. Drink from 2030. Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 20.5% Price: $126

94 Wine & Soul 2018 Pintas Porto Vintage Port. The Port has great fruits that envelope

the tannins and give it richness. There is plenty of structure and obvious aging potential, but there are also the swathes of perfumed black fruits and dense black-prune and plum flavors. The wine will age for many years, do not touch before 2029. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $110

93 Quinta das Carvalhas NV 30 Year Old Tawny Port. With the maturity of this fine wine has

come wisdom without wrinkles. The Port has a vel-vet texture that just slips by—the dried fruits offer a glimpse through the wine’s maturity. Drink this wine now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $120

93 Real Companhia Velha 2018 Síbio Vintage Port. This hard-to-reach quinta in a side

valley from the Douro has produced a rich, sweet, deliciously luxurious Vintage Port. Dense and with luscious black fruits and blackberry-jam flavors, the wine also has the necessary structure and tannins to allow it to age. The wine, produced from old vines, should be ready from 2030. Vinofiamma. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $70

92 Broadbent NV Tawny Porto 20 Years Port. The style encapsulates a fine, aged tawny,

showing rich concentration as well as a touch of spirit and luscious sweetness. The acidity gives the wine a lightly medicinal character as well as nec-essary freshness. This is a delicious wine, ready to drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V. abv: 19.5% Price: $54/500 ml

92 Quinta das Carvalhas 2016 Late Bottled Vintage Port. For full review see page 11.

abv: 20% Price: $20

92 Real Companhia Velha 2018 Vintage Port. A blend across different vineyards, this

Port is dense, darkly textured and with firm tan-nins. Its smoky fruit and edge of sweetness are bal-anced by the dry core that demands aging. This is a

BUYINGGUIDE


fine Vintage, ready to drink from 2029. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $70

91 Broadbent NV Auction Reserve Port. Celebrat-ing the life of the legendary wine critic and

auctioneer Michael Broadbent, this rich, fruit- driven and finely textured Port is impressive. On the dry side and with plenty of dried fruit flavors, this is a great example of a Reserve Port. Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V. abv: 19.5% Price: $28

91 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2014 Late Bottled Vintage Port. Showing just the

right amount of aging, but with the potential for more, this Port brings dried fruits and fresher dam-son flavors into a satisfyingly rich combination. The wine is full, ripe, generous and softly textured. It is ready to drink now and until 2028. Terroir Selections. —R.V. abv: 19.5% Price: $34

90 Broadbent NV Tawny Porto 10 Years Port. Like all good 10-year-old tawnies, this Port

strikes a fine balance between fruit and wood aging, so it still has freshness from the red fruits. This contrasts with the wine’s spice, wood-aging flavors and intensity. Drink now. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V. abv: 19.5% Price: $18/500 ml

90 Quinta das Carvalhas NV 10 Year Old Tawny Port. For a 10-year-old Port, this is impres-

sively mature, showing plenty of wood-aging flavors that have fully embraced the more youthful fruiti-ness. Sweet and with hints of caramel, this is a fine, ripe Port to be drunk now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $30

89 Delaforce 2018 Vintage Port. This small-production Vintage Port from an old-vine

field blend is ripe, with dark fruits and dense tan-nins. It has plenty of the structure needed for aging although this is not for decades but rather years. There is already a fine balance here: black fruits with sweetness contrasting with wood and acidity. Drink from 2028. Signature Imports. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $70

89 Real Companhia Velha 2016 Royal Oporto Late Bottled Vintage Port. Foot trodden

in open lagars, this is a generous Port. It has an open texture, neatly sustained by the tannins but certainly ready to drink. Red-berry flavors are gen-erously partnered with spice and a luscious sweet-ness. Drink now. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $20

89 Real Companhia Velha 2010 Royal Oporto Colheita Port. As a vintage tawny goes, this

is young. It has preserved plenty of fruit, and shows raisin and dark-plum flavors alongside touches of spice and sweetness from wood aging. The wine is, of course, ready to drink. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $20

88 Delaforce 2016 Late Bottled Vintage Port. This is a Port that has matured well to give

a fine poise between maturity and perfumed fruiti-ness. With raisin and prune flavors alongside the wood aging, the wine is rich and on the dry side for an LBV. Drink now. Signature Imports. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $20

88 Real Companhia Velha 2016 Síbio Late Bottled Vintage Port. This is a dry style of

Port, rich in tannins and with a fresh edge of red fruits. The spirit shows in the burnt edge and that needs to integrate. But the wine could develop, so drink this from 2022. Vinofiamma. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $22

88 Wine & Soul NV Manoella Tawny Finest Reserve Port. Wood aged and smoothly tex-

tured, this is a ripe, dried fruit and spicy wine. It is rich while having a light touch of acidity. Drink now. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 19.5% Price: $50

SPAINWHITE WINES

RÍAS BAIXAS

90 Pazo de Rubianes 2019 1411 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Elegant aromas of lemon-lime and

wet stone are crystalline and set up a fresh palate that’s smooth and easy as well as vital. Apple, melon and white pepper flavors fade little by little on a healthy finish. Misa Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

89 Don Olegario 2019 Albariño (Rías Baixas). A mellow nose offers aromas of pound cake,

apple, melon and lemon. A round palate is braced by sound acidity, while flavors of apple cider, lemon and sea brine fade quickly on a finish that leaves a minerally aftertaste. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Noelia Bebelia 2019 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Aromas of lime, pine sap and pineapple are

punchy in front of a lively palate driven by the tang of citric acidity. Tangerine and white pineapple fla-vors play out on a stony finish that tastes ever so slightly chemical. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

87 Mar de Frades 2019 Albariño (Rías Baixas). A yellowish color and briny aromas of apple

and pineapple lead to a chunky palate that’s cidery in feel and high in malic acid. Flavors of passion fruit and lemon are a bit wayward in front of a cit-rusy finish. Zamora Company USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

86 Adegas Gran Vinum 2019 Mar de Viñas Albariño (Rías Baixas). Yeasty apple aro-

mas come with hints of compost and funk. This feels round and pulpy, with melon and peach flavors

accompanied by a grassy side note. Green melon and banana-like flavors rise up on the finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18

GETARIAKO TXAKOLINA

87 Talai Berri 2018 Oreka Hondarrabi Zuri (Getar-iako Txakolina). Aromas of golden delicious

apple include a funky, sweaty hint of chicken soup. A light-bodied palate is mildly spritzy, while this Txakoli is classic in style, with salty flavors of tart apple and gooseberry. A cleansing finish is scouring and mostly fresh. Drink now. Domaines and Appela-tions. —M.S. abv: 11% Price: $19

86 Alleme 2018 Getariako Txakolina. Lightly oxidized aromas of apple cider, brioche and

butterscotch open this round-bodied but highly malic Txakoli. Mild flavors of wheat bread and orange are just vital enough, while closing notes of oxidation and dried apple make for a waxy finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $22

86 K5 Argiñano 2018 K Pilota Sobre Lías Hond-arrabi Zuri (Getariako Txakolina). Briny aro-

mas of seashell turn more intense and funky as this lees-aged Txakoli sits. This highly particular Basque white is shallow in depth despite there being round-ness to the palate. Tangy orange and tangerine fla-vors are briny and finish with a jolt of citric acidity. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $22

84 Hiruzta 2018 Berezia Hondarrabi Zuri (Getar-iako Txakolina). Briny apple aromas control

a muddled nose, while this no-spritz Txakoli feels soft and rather flat. Flavors of green grape skins, underripe pear, wax bean and carrot finish with-out much lift or energy. Grape Expectations (CA). —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $25

RUEDA

88 Palacio de Bornos 2019 Verdejo (Rueda). Fresh and fairly light and airy on the nose,

this Verdejo is clean and easygoing on the palate, with kiwi, green apple and pineapple flavors. A refreshingly light finish is both pure and cleansing. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Protos 2019 Verdejo (Rueda). Tangerine, green apple and stone fruit aromas include

a yeasty whiff of sourdough bread. This everyday Verdejo sports a medium body braced by crisp acid-ity, while flavors of green melon and peach pit are slightly bitter and salty. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

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87 Bodegas Caserío de Dueñas 2019 Superior Verdejo (Rueda). Slightly mealy apple aro-

mas are not the most fresh and pristine, while this feels round and chunky, with acidic offset. Salty apple and green melon flavors finish with some length due to the wine’s core acidity. Torgar Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

85 Cuatro Rayas 2019 Caballito de Mar Verdejo (Rueda). Yeasty apple and haystack aromas

are briny and a touch muddled. A simple palate offers basic apple and green grape flavors that finish slightly bitter and dilute, with a pop of lasting acid-ity. Vinaio Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

OTHER WHITE WINES

91 Alma das Donas 2019 Almalarga Godello (Ribeira Sacra). An aromatic mix of yellow

apple, wet river rocks and lemon verbena com-prise a nose that’s right on for Godello from Ribeira Sacra. A round palate with bracing acidity is healthy in feel, while this tastes of apple and minerals. A pure and lasting finish is clean and crisp. Drink now. Misa Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

91 Avancia 2019 Old Vines Godello (Valdeorras). For full review see page 13.

abv: 14.1% Price: $34

89 Pazo de Toubes 2019 Tamborá Godello (Ribeiro). Briny apple, citrus and hay aro-

mas lead to a full and round palate with modest acidity that suggests “drink now.” Flavors of apple, honeydew, green banana and white pepper hold steady on a finish with mild grape-skin bitterness. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $29

89 Silva Daponte 2019 Godello (Monterrei). Dusty, yeasty apple and vanilla aromas set

up a round palate that’s mostly pure and reflective of very good Galician Godello. Yellow apple and peach flavors are slightly minerally, while this is clean on the finish, with nothing unwelcome. Table 31 Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $23

88 Bat Gara 2018 Uno (Txakoli de Álava). Aro-mas of sourdough bread include notes of

pear and apple. This lees-aged Txakoli feels full and round, with citric acidity providing lift. Briny apple and green-herb flavors are limited, while this expands a bit on a medium-weight finish. Drink now. Vintage Wine Marketing. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $23

88 Belondrade 2019 Quinta Apolonia Verdejo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Cidery

aromas of apple and pear include a yeasty note and tropical hints. This feels fairly full and pulpy for Verdejo, while flavors of golden apple, citrus fruits

and honey finish round and weighty, with acidic cut. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

87 Godelia 2019 Godello (Bierzo). Briny apple and citrus aromas are a bit sketchy, while

this Godello is highly citric on the palate, with sharp acidity and not much body. Tart clementine and lemony flavors are crisp and show some of Bierzo’s patented slate character, while a lean finish is tangy as well as mildly bitter. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Bat Gara 2018 Urtaran Cuvée (Txakoli de Álava). This barrel-fermented Txakoli

smells of spent yeast, vanilla, oxidized apple and oak grain. The palate is round and soft, with just enough acidity to keep things afloat. A heavily oxi-dative character dominates this unusual example; proceed with caution, as this is only for fans of oxi-dized white wines. Vintage Wine Marketing. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $38

ROSADOS

88 La Maldita 2019 Garnacha Rosé (Rioja). This rosé starts off clean and stony on the nose

then turns lively and citric on the palate. Salt and citrus juice flavors carry it along, while a lemon peel note marks the steady finish. Guarachi Wine Part-ners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Ramirez de la Piscina 2019 Rosado (Rioja). A light tan color and melony aromas touched

up by a note of honey open this claret style rosé that’s made from 75% white Viura and 25% red Garnacha. A fresh, pinchy palate comes with citric acidity and flavors of tangerine and apple that hint at bitterness on a solid finish. Jorge Ordóñez Selec-tions. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

87 Bodegas Faustino 2019 VII Rosé (Rioja). A rusty deep-orange color and aromas of

stone fruits, carrot juice and yeasty vanilla lead to a medium-to-full palate that’s flush and plump by rosé standards. Nonspecific citrus and generic melon flavors turn slightly bitter on a chunky finish. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Ramón Bilbao 2019 Rosado (Rioja). A tan color is backed by aromas of cantaloupe

and petrol. This light-bodied rosé is crisp in feel and superficial, not deep. Dried apricot and underripe melon flavors sway toward bitter prior to an easy finish. Zamora Company USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

85 Bodegas Luzón 2019 Colección Monastrell Rosado (Jumilla). Bland but clean stone

fruit aromas are basic, while this feels narrow and tight. Salty cantaloupe and generic nectarine and

peach flavors become lightly oxidized on a slightly bitter finish. Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Campo Viejo 2019 Crisp & Elegant Rosé (Spain). A neutral nose is the opening act

to a bland, obtuse palate. Bitter grape-skin flavors are backed by hints of cantaloupe and peach. This is competently fresh but lacks character and depth on the finish. Pernod Ricard. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

85 Otazu 2019 Merlot Rosado (Navarra). This rosé of Merlot is translucent red in color,

with candied red fruit and red apple flavors offset by notes of lettuce and grass. A weighty palate deals slightly bitter and dull strawberry and raspberry flavors, and a sucking candy sweetness comes up on the finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

84 Pago del Vicario 2019 Rubi Edition Petit Ver-dot Rosado (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla).

A red color and yeasty aromas of sourdough bread open this Petit Verdot rosé. A lazy palate is medium in weight and short on kick and zest. Flavors of red apple skins and cherry struggle to make a mark on a sleepy finish. City Moonlight Wines and Liquors. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $30

84 Radio Boka 2019 Rosé (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Melon and peach aromas are mild,

while this offers a pop of citrusy acidity on an other-wise bland palate. Flavors of orange, nectarine and cantaloupe are shy, while this falls flat on the finish. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

SPAINRED WINES

RIBERA DEL DUERO

90 Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2018 Damana 5 (Ribera del Duero). Cherry, cassis and

blackberry aromas are standard for Ribera del Duero but score points for being undemanding and clean. A tightly wound palate is full but not heavy, and blackberry and earthy black plum flavors finish warm, round and pleasant. For a large-production wine from a marginal year, this is impressive. Las Arribes LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

87 Bodegas Gormaz 2018 12 Linajes (Ribera del Duero). Candied cherry and raspberry

aromas are backed by a palate that’s fresh on first impression then more jammy and simple as this airs out. Cherry, plum and berry flavors are friendly but generic, while this feels jammy on the finish. Clas-sical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

BUYINGGUIDE


84 Portia 2018 Roble (Ribera del Duero). Rub-bery aromas suggest new tires. A sticky,

resiny palate tastes heavily worked, with vanilla oak flavors running wild. A woody, grainy finish includes a can’t-miss green note. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

RIOJA

94 Gómez de Segura 2015 Finca Ratón Reserva (Rioja). Blackberry, prune, cinnamon and

chocolate aromas lead to a lush, wide-bodied pal-ate that spreads out with comfort and class. Black-berry, chocolate and coffee are the key flavors on this warm-year single-vineyard reserva. Richness and chocolaty depth carry over to the finish. Drink through 2028. W. Direct. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $55

94 San Vicente 2015 Rioja. Lightly baked black fruit aromas are oaky and powerful, while

this feels dry, firm, tannic and well structured for a warm-year Rioja. Lush berry, black currant and dried beef flavors come with plenty of oak, while tannic pinch and dryness anchor a full-sized finish with oaky spice. Drink through 2034. Jorge Ordóñez Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

93 Bodegas LAN 2017 A Mano Edición Limitada (Rioja). Oaky scents of vanilla and cream

enrich an herbal nose that sports a note of euca-lyptus along with black fruit aromas. On the pal-ate, this is flush and smooth, but kind of soft and creamy. Vanilla, coffee, tobacco and wood spice flavors blend with ripe blackberry and black plum notes, while this is generously oaked and thus tastes chocolaty on the finish. Drink through 2028. Bode-gas LAN. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $55

93 Bodegas Tobía 2014 Óscar Tobía Gran Reserva (Rioja). Foresty berry and spiced black

cherry aromas blend with notes of dried fruits and pipe tobacco. A supple palate is full and resolute but charming, with smooth tannins and a welcome pop of lively acidity. Integrated flavors of plum, currant and peppery spice are supported by creamy vanilla oak through the finish. Drink through 2031. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 Gómez de Segura 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Befitting a warm vintage like 2015, this

reserva smells of ripe blackberry, prune, spice cake and cedary oak. The palate is stout and balanced, with pulpy weight offset by healthy acidity. Black-berry, cassis, cola and oaky flavors finish long and smooth. Enjoy through 2027. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $42

93 Señorío de Villarrica 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Nicely perfumed aromas of purple flowers,

dark berry fruits, tobacco and mountain brush are highly appealing and set the stage for a full and lively

palate that’s slightly choppy and prodding. Woody barrel spice and vanilla notes accompany plum, cas-sis and cinnamon flavors, while this warm-vintage reserva that spent two years in French oak feels strapping and shows nice length on the finish. Drink through 2028. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $49

92 Bodegas LAN 2017 Crianza D-12 (Rioja). A dark color and ripe aromas of blackberry,

prune, lemony oak and graphite get this crianza off to a serious start. A concentrated palate feel is juiced up by bright acidity, while this tastes of wild berry fruits topped with chocolaty oak. Drink this smooth operator through 2025. Bodegas LAN. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

92 Contino 2017 Viña del Olivo (Rioja). Cool herbal notes atop berry fruit aromas lend a

spicy, mildly green essence to the nose. The palate on this single-vineyard Rioja is a bit wiry and acidic, but that also means that this feels fresh and juicy. Tangy plum, currant, tomato and berry flavors are backed by spicy oak and licorice notes, while this stays fresh on an acidity-driven finish that guar-antees a long life. Drink through 2034. Arano LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $145

92 CVNE 2014 Imperial Gran Reserva (Rioja). Rooty, reedy aromas of licorice and fennel

blend with oak grain and spiced berry and cherry scents to form a welcoming nose. The palate on this gran reserva from a difficult year feels lean and lin-ear, with raw acidity. Plum, currant and vanilla oak flavors turn dry, tight, snappy and a touch tart on the finish. Drink through 2032. Arano LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $92

91 Bodegas Olarra 2017 Reciente Crianza (Rioja). Smoky, tarry aromas blend with wild berry

and cured beef scents, while this crianza is medium in body with zesty acidity that creates a racy pal-ate feel. Flavors of plum and tomato sauce dwell on the savory side, while this is composed and fresh on the finish. Drink through 2023. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

91 Bodegas Tobía 2017 Viñedos de Altura (Rioja). Prickly aromas of pine needle and summer

herbs provide sharp accents to an otherwise earthy nose with tobacco and spicy berry fruit scents. While this feels plump and full, the tannins are edgy and rubbing. Blackberry, chocolate, coffee and oaky flavors of vanilla and spice finish with tobacco notes and a touch of heat. Drink through 2030. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 CVNE 2014 Cune Gran Reserva (Rioja). Woodsy raspberry and currant aromas are

dry and distant, while this gran reserva from a diffi-cult vintage feels solid and gets the job done. Toast, coffee and wood spice notes accent raspberry and plum flavors, while a steady finish is dry feeling

and tastes lightly spiced. The future is now for this. Drink through 2023. Arano LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

90 Bodegas Olarra 2017 Cerro Añon Crianza (Rioja). Berry and plum aromas are lightly

spiced and show a touch of baby powder. On the palate, this is bright and juicy, with chalky tannins. Spicy berry and plum flavors are aided by a touch of charred oak, while this is toasty, dark and chocolaty tasting on the finish. Drink through 2023. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

90 Gómez de Segura 2017 Crianza (Rioja). Blackberry, cassis and jammy blueberry

aromas include hints of vanilla and nutmeg. On the palate, this feels fleshy and grabby. Wild berry, herbal plum and dry brush flavors lead to a finish with clinging tannins. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $28

90 Marqués de Riscal 2015 Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 18.

abv: 14.5% Price: $19

90 Ramón Bilbao 2015 Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 18.

abv: 14.5% Price: $27

89 Alonso López 2017 Crianza (Rioja). A com-pact nose smells of bacon and rubbery black

fruits, while this feels gravelly and sticky due to pronounced tannins. Roasted berry and barbecued flavors of pork ribs, baked beans and oak spice fin-ish dry and clamping. Misa Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Bodegas LAN 2017 Xtrème Crianza Made With Organic Grapes (Rioja). A ripe and for-

ward nose leans heavily on balsamic plum and berry aromas with oaky support. A wide and full palate is a touch flat and heavy, while this tastes of fully toasted oak, black cherry, dark plum and raisin. Dry tannins and oak rule the back end of this rich and figgy crianza. Bodegas LAN. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Bodegas Ugalde 2017 Crianza (Rioja). Plum and raspberry aromas show a spot of lem-

ony oak in front of a lively palate bolstered by juicy acidity. Cherry, raspberry and currant flavors come with hints of green peppercorn and green herbs, while light spice notes are spread across the finish. 4Front Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

89 Contino 2014 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Raisin and cassis aromas range from fully ripe to

overripe, while this is baked and a touch flabby in feel, with moderate to low acidity. Dried berry, plum and cassis flavors land on raisin and prune, indicat-ing that finding balance was a challenge in 2014. Desiccation on the finish brings this gran reserva back to raisiny. Drink through 2023. Arano LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $68

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89 Kirkland Signature 2016 Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 21. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $7

89 Ramón Bilbao 2016 Limited Edition (Rioja). Ripe berry aromas are a touch jammy and

include hints of vanilla and spiced beef. The palate on this barrel-select Rioja is compact in feel, while plum and currant flavors are aided by conventional oak spice. Light oak and related cinnamon and spice notes hang around on a mild finish. Zamora Com-pany USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

89 Vivanco 2017 Crianza Selección de Familia (Rioja). Scratchy red plum and currant aro-

mas set up a palate with gravelly tannins that cause moderate roughness. Plum, cherry and tomato sauce flavors come with a touch of wood spice, while this is fresh and lively on a racy finish. Drink through 2022. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

88 Bodegas Ondarre 2016 Señorio de Ondarre Reserva (Rioja). Lemony oak and wood

grain aromas are upfront on this barrel-driven Rioja reserva. A tight palate is drawing and tannic, while this emphasizes woody flavors and related spice more than fruit character. Fittingly, this tastes lightly woody on a lighter-weight finish. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

88 Luxus One 2017 Crianza Singular Wine (Rioja). Saucy barbecued aromas lead a

nose with reedy green hints, earthy plum scents and raisiny overtones. A flush palate is rough and edgy, while this crianza tastes of baked plum and raisin prior to a finish with marinated beefy notes and residual oak. Arco Globus International. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

88 Marqués de Riscal 2017 Arienzo Crianza (Rioja). For full review see page 21. Best


88 Marqués de Riscal 2016 Finca Torrea (Rioja). Initial aromas of raisin and spice cake

match a dark color and suggest full ripeness. Fol-lowing that lead, this is plump in feel, with mild tannic rub. Slightly baked berry flavors ease into a finish with mild heat and a raisiny aftertaste. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Proelio 2017 Crianza (Rioja). Aromas of warm tar and earthy black plum set up a

full palate that’s wide in scope. Oaky flavors of clove and mint accent herbal plum and berry fruit notes, while this doesn’t change much on a finish with tannic rawness. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

88 Vallobera 2017 Terran de Vallobera (Rioja). Creamy oak-driven aromas of vanilla and

milk chocolate open this plump Rioja that feels

grabby and blocky, not sleek. Flavors of marshmal-low, milk chocolate and baked plum finish full but sticky. Finesse and flow are not part of the package on this imperfect wine from a drought year. Axial Vinos USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

88 Viña Eguía 2015 Reserva (Rioja). For full review see page 19.

abv: 13.5% Price: $19

87 Bodegas Ondarre 2016 Primeur (Rioja). Earthy red berry aromas show a touch of

spice while leading to a hard-hitting palate that’s narrow and aggressive. Plum, currant and vanilla flavors are common for Rioja, while this is dry and kicking on the finish. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

PRIORAT

92 Cellers Unió 2018 Tendral Selecció (Priorat). Snappy plum and berry aromas include a

classic Priorat note of schisty minerality that sug-gests dried blood. A racy palate settles on juicy brightness, while this blend of Garnacha and Cari-gnan tastes of raspberry, red plum, red currant, cured beef and iron. A steady finish closes this out. Drink through 2023. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

91 Bon Mas 2018 Priorat. Cheesy vanilla oak aro-mas sit atop earthy plum, cherry and prune

scents, while this feels both tight and fleshy, but inexact. Black cherry, baked plum, prune and choco-late flavors finish with a raisiny hint of dried black fruits. Drink through 2023. Misa Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

91 Clos de Tafall 2018 Priorat. Black cherry, dark plum and animal aromas include hints of

dried blood and iron-rich schist. A stout palate is flush and full, with flavors of black cherry, plum, fig and chocolaty oak. A warm finish with baked berry and cocoa flavors is generous but low on complex-ity. Drink through 2022. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

JUMILLA

87 Crápula 2018 CR Soul Monastrell (Jumilla). Sappy berry and cassis aromas are a touch

green and crowded by milk chocolate oak notes. A thick and dense palate is enlivened by tartaric acidity, while this tastes of plum, berry fruits and creamy oak. A sticky finish feels chunky and weighty. Misa Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

86 Bodegas San Dionisio 2018 Toza Monas-trell (Jumilla). Aggressive aromas of berry

fruits are fiery, slightly green and suggestive of wet cement. Conversely, this Monastrell is bulky and

soupy in feel, without much verve or bounce to the palate. Minty blueberry and cassis flavors border on syrupy, while this is thick and sticky on a finish that’s not uncommon for Monastrell. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

85 Crápula 2019 Cr Gold 5 Monastrell-Syrah (Jumilla). Aromas of raisin and prune are

dense and stewy, while this blend of Monastrell and Syrah feels thick and sappy, with raisiny desicca-tion. Prune, raisin, fig and chocolate flavors fail to shed an overripe character on a baked and heavy finish. Misa Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

83 Bodegas Luzón 2019 Colección Roble Monas-trell (Jumilla). A flat and stewy nose smells

mostly like clove, while this Monastrell feels jammy and syrupy. Outright flavors of clove and nutmeg overwhelm any natural fruit character this might offer, while the finish deals more of the same. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

OTHER RED WINES

92 Arínzano 2014 Gran Vino Tempranillo (Pago de Arínzano). Blackberry and prune aromas

are backed by cheesy oak and vanilla notes as well as hints of tobacco and cedar. A deep palate is concen-trated and showing proper balance, while this Pago-specific Navarran Tempranillo tastes of blackberry, wood spice and bacon. A jammy finish is thick and somewhat creamy in texture. Drink through 2026. Stoli Group USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

92 Potente 2018 Montsant. Plum, berry and prune aromas are on the cusp of smelling

baked and cooked but airing allows for expansion and the emergence of iron and schist notes. A full and round palate qualifies as dense, while this Gar-nacha blend deals cassis, dark plum and chocolaty flavors in front of a composed but chunky finish. Drink through 2023. Misa Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

89 De Haan Altés 2018 Lo Patinet Organically Grown Grapes (Montsant). Soft black fruit

aromas are baked and pruny, with a touch of road tar thrown in. Smacking tannins create a grabby palate feel, while slightly stalky plum and black-berry flavors end with tannic rub. 4Front Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $30

89 Príncipe de Viana 2015 Reserva Tempranillo (Navarra). Reedy currant and raspberry

aromas are a bit sharp and hint at green, while the palate is fuller almost to the point of creamy. Herbal notes of mint and thyme accompany red plum and cherry flavors. On the finish, punchy acidity, lin-gering green hints and mild oaky vanilla combine forces. Sybarite Global LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

BUYINGGUIDE


88 Jorge Ordóñez & Co. 2018 Triton Old Vines (Toro). Friendly berry and cassis aromas are

balsamic and baked, with a note of molasses. This ripe and beefy Toro is creamy in feel, with sticky tannins. Roasted berry, cassis and chocolaty oak fla-vors finish short and woody. Jorge Ordóñez Selec-tions. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $20

86 Clos de Lôm 2018 Monastrell (Valencia). Waxy, yeasty aromas of stone fruit pit,

carrot juice and petrol are lightly oxidized. On the palate, a bolt of sharp citric acidity is keeping this mostly in balance. Oxidized flavors of tangerine and nectarine finish with some bitterness. Jack Harvey Group LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

85 Finca Anzil 2018 La Poda (Toro). A rus-tic nose includes dark berry notes as well

as rubbery harshness. A raw and grabby palate is tannic but doesn’t show much structure or depth. Lightly green berry flavors are dunked in oak, while this tastes of clove and wood grain on the finish. HAB North America. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $15

84 Gran Pasas 2018 Monastrell (Yecla). Stalky berry aromas are leathery, tomatoey and

raw, while this Monastrell feels creamy, with grabby tannins. Flavors of green herbs, vanilla and oak grain finish jammy and thick. Hammeken Cellars USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

SHERRY

93 González Byass NV Del Duque Vinum Opti-mum Rare Signatum Amontillado (Jerez).

A tawny color and deep, lush aromas of pecan pie, toasted almond and brown sugar open this stylish amontillado made from wines that went into barrel 30 years ago or longer. Toasty richness accompa-nies requisite flavors of almond and peanut, while this is elegant and lasts for ages on the finish. Drink through 2040. Gonzalez Byass USA. —M.S. abv: 21.5% Price: $50

92 Lustau NV Almacenista Antonio Caballero y Sobrinos Amontillado del Castillo (Jerez).

This is tawny in color, with an intense nose that’s nutty and suggests brown sugar, citrus and dried apricot. Prickly acidity is the driver of a racy palate with toasty flavors of roasted nuts, toffee, coffee and cocoa. A long and aggressive finish shows some heat and fire. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 21.5% Price: $35/500 ml

91 Bodegas y Viñedos Diez Merito NV Bertola Amontillado 12 Years Old (Jerez). A tawny

color and mild but smooth aromas of roasted nuts and yeasty flor lead to a fresh and zingy palate with bright acidity and a lean-to-medium body. Tart cit-rus flavors are backed by nutty toffee notes, while this finishes long and steady, with length propelled

by popping acidity. Drink through 2030. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $36

89 Bodegas y Viñedos Diez Merito NV Pemartín Amontillado (Jerez). A cloudy brown color

and earthy aromas of raisin and sweat get this amontillado off to a sketchy start, but once this hits the palate things seem to be in order. Flavors of cocoa, roasted nuts and mushroom finish with a touch of burn and heat. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $24

88 Herederos de Argüeso NV Amontillado 1822 Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Jerez). A tawny

color with a twinge of orange along with sharp peanutty aromas are burning and intense. On the palate, this is all about scouring acidity and the tang and zest that it creates. Flavors of sour citrus fruits, burnt nuts and cocoa finish dry as a bone and chalky, with little richness or depth. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 21.5% Price: $149

87 González Byass NV Viña AB 12 Años Amon-tillado Seco (Jerez). A burnished gold color

along with cheesy aromas of ocean foam and oak set up an expansive but regular palate. Nutty caramel and rancio flavors show little to no complexity on the finish. Gonzalez Byass USA. —M.S. abv: 16.5% Price: $25

BORDEAUXWHITE WINES

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN

97 Domaine de Chevalier 2018 Pessac-Léognan. One of the iconic white wines of Bordeaux,

produced in small quantities, this is a powerful and rich expression of ripe Sauvignon Blanc. The fruitiness, with its tropical hints, is enhanced by the wine’s complexity, touches of spice and density. Drink this impressive wine from 2024. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $119

96 Château de Fieuzal 2018 Pessac-Léognan. This wine is rich, generously textured and

ripe. Acidity is comfortably integrated into the wine’s texture, offering hints of tropical fruits, taut minerality and a spicy and warm future. Drink from 2024. The Wine Trust. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $72

95 Château Carbonnieux 2018 Pessac-Léognan. Always a success, the releases of whites

from this estate continue with this tight, textured, wood-aged and ripe wine. It is still young, balancing between citrus and crisp acidity, with a texture that will open as the wine ages. Drink from 2023. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

95 Château Couhins-Lurton 2018 Pessac-Léognan. This pure Sauvignon Blanc offers

green-fruit flavors that gain richness from hints of tropical fruits in the background. Wood aging weaves its smoothing magic to give a wine with complexity and richness that will age. Drink from 2023. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

94 Château Couhins 2018 Pessac-Léognan. A great success for the estate, this crisp, tex-

tured wine is packed with herbal and grassy flavors from Sauvignon Blanc and attractive perfumes from Sauvignon Gris. The wine is going to age well. Drink from 2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

94 Domaine de Chevalier 2018 L’Esprit de Che-valier (Pessac-Léognan). The ripe layer of

Sémillon in this wine gives richness, a creamed-apple character and plenty of aging potential. The second white wine of Domaine de Chevalier, it is ripe, wood aged and generous in fruitiness. Drink the wine from 2023. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $37

93 Château Bouscaut 2018 Pessac-Léognan. Rich, ageworthy Sémillon combines with

crisper Sauvignon Blanc in this satisfyingly ripe wine. Still young, it has a rich, full-bodied future that will keep the wine’s freshness in focus. Drink from 2023. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45

93 Château Couhins 2018 La Gravette (Pessac-Léognan). There is young brightness to this

attractive wine. Kiwi and green fruits go with layers of tight acidity and a vibrant texture. The wine is likely to develop well. Drink from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

93 Château Lespault-Martillac 2018 Pessac-Léognan. This richly endowed wine is full

of white stone fruits cut with gooseberry flavors. Spice and toastiness from wood aging are discreetly in the background offering a crisp edge to the ripe fruitiness. Drink this wine from 2022. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $37

91 Château de Fieuzal 2018 L’Abeille de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan). The estate has made a

reputation for its white wines. This second wine reflects the equilibrium and ripeness of the top white while having a lighter, more instantly acces-sible character. With judicious wood aging, it will be ready from 2022. The Wine Trust. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $41

91 Château Roche-Lalande 2019 Pessac -Léognan. This perfumed wine is full of trop-

ical-fruit flavors laced with acidity. Light touches from wood aging have added nutmeg flavors to the structured fruitiness. Developing well, the wine will show best from late 2021. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50

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91 Domaine de la Solitude 2018 Pessac-Léognan. The religious order that owns this vineyard

has entrusted the winemaking to Domaine de Che-valier. The team there has produced a crisp, tight Sauvignon Blanc-dominated wine. Offering flavors of green fruit and citrus, the wine has weight to go with that tangy character, giving it a fine future. It should be ready to drink from 2023. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $31

90 Château Bouscaut 2018 Les Chênes de Bous-caut (Pessac-Léognan). While this wine

has an initial earthiness, that will go as it develops. An herbal, green fruitiness is beginning to come through. With its freshness intact, the wine will be ready from 2022. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Château Pont Saint-Martin 2019 Pessac- Léognan. A smoothly textured, rounded

wine, this offers fresh apple and citrus fruits. Light wood-aging flavors lift the fruitiness and give extra depth to this attractive wine. Drink from late 2021. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $42

88 Château Latour-Martillac 2019 Lagrave-Martillac (Pessac-Léognan). A blend of

half-and-half Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, this wine shows a grassy, young character. This sec-ond wine of Latour-Martillac, it has lightly herbal green-fruits flavors, with a fresh, tangy aftertaste. Drink from late 2021. Wine Source International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

GRAVES

92 Château de Chantegrive 2019 Cuvée Caroline (Graves). This well-structured wine offers

wood-aging flavors and a texture that is still tight and young. It has great potential, the ripe fruits and spicy flavors allied to the wine’s concentration. Drink from 2022. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

92 Château Lugaud 2019 Graves. This warm, ripe and generous wine has a good balance

between fresh citrus flavors and rich, spicy baked-apple fruits. With touches of toast attractively in place, the wine will age well. Drink from 2022. DHI Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

92 Château Trébiac 2019 Graves. This unusual 100% Sémillon shows excellent potential.

The richness promises a full, creamy-textured and white-fruit-flavored wine. Although the wine is drinkable now, it would be a shame not to wait until 2022. The Wine Company. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

92 Clos Floridène 2019 Graves. The late founder Denis Dubourdieu was the master of white

wine in Bordeaux. So it is pleasing that this wine

should be so fine. Subtly rich, with generous white fruits, ripeness and concentration, the wine is developing well. Drink from 2022. AP Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

91 Château de Chantegrive 2019 Graves. This full, generous wood-aged wine is full of white

fruits, with a hint of pineapple and plenty of spice and tangy acidity. The wine’s richness will see it age well, so drink from 2022. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

91 Château de Portets 2019 Graves. This estate has produced a balanced, ripe and sophis-

ticated wine. Acidity and texture go with the cit-rus and spice flavors. Hints of tropical fruits come through at the end. Drink from late 2021. Som-mailier. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

91 Château Ferrande 2019 Graves. Fresh, fruity and also toasty, this wine contrasts ripe green

fruits with white stone fruits. It has a zesty char-acter, allied to the flavors of wood aging. The wine will come together well from 2022. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

91 Château Haut Selve 2019 Graves. This ripe, wood-aged wine brings together structure,

spice from toastiness and touches of white-peach and red-apple flavors. It is a well-judged wine offer-ing fruit and potential. Drink this ageworthy wine from 2022. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

91 Château Pont de Brion 2019 Graves. This is a soft, creamy and toasty wine, with a good

proportion of Sémillon in the blend. Creamed-pear and apple flavors are smooth, rich with a fine tex-ture. The wine is balanced and ready to drink from 2022. Novovino Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

90 Château de Beau-Site 2019 Graves. Lightly spicy and rich, this wine has weight and

a texture that demands some aging. Tangy green fruits bring a fresh element to the wine. Drink from 2022. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

90 Château de la Brède 2019 Graves. Hints of tropical fruit and toastiness from wood

aging give this wine richness to contrast with the green-apple fruits and tangy lime flavors. The wine needs to age, so wait to drink untll 2022. DS Trad-ing Co. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $32

90 Château du Seuil 2019 Graves. This well-structured, wood-aged wine is poised, with

good fruit and acidity. A light touch of spice part-ners with the tangy, lightly herbal flavors. Drink this wine from 2022. Organic. DB Wine Selection. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 125% Price: $19

90 Château Rahoul 2019 Graves. This wood-aged wine has richness and a tight texture

that needs to soften. With its intense acidity and perfumed, ripe herbal character, the wine needs time. Drink from 2022. Champagnes & Châteaux USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $33

90 Château Saint-Robert 2019 Cuvée Poncet-Deville (Graves). This wood-aged wine

combines fresh minerality and a more tropical-fruit aspect. It is still very young, but will develop into a balanced, fruity and textured wine worthy of aging. Drink from 2023. Organic. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Château de Cérons 2019 Graves. Light but well structured, this wine has ripe white

fruits, touches of white currants, plenty of herbal acidity plus some spice. A toasty hint and texture give aging potential. Drink from 2022. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

89 Château des Places 2019 Agora (Graves). This wine is herbal and catty, with intense

acidity. It needs to soften, open and integrate, but has good potential. A perfumed aftertaste makes an attractive finish. Drink from 2022. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $38

89 Château des Places 2019 Graves. This wine is light on the texture but heavy on white

fruits, fresh acidity and open, accessible character. Drink this attractive wine now. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

89 Château La Rose Sarron 2019 Graves. Ripe with creamed apples while also freshened

with crisp citrus flavors, this wine has an herbal edge. It needs a few months to bring itself together, so drink from 2022. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

89 Vieux Château Gaubert 2019 Graves. This young wine is packed with clean, perfumed

fruit. A light texture along with spice balances the fruitiness. The wine’s freshness and lively acidity will soon soften, so wait to drink until late 2021. DS Trading Co. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 Château Calvimont 2019 Graves. Selected parcels from the Château de Cérons estate

have produced this warm, richly fruity and lightly tangy wine. Lemon and kiwi flavors are fresh while rich enough to promise some aging. Drink this wine from 2022. EU. Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

88 Château Crabitey 2019 Graves. An easygo-ing and fresh wine, this brings out a crisp

texture of citrus as well as richer white stone fruits.

BUYINGGUIDE


The wine’s bright fruitiness and lively acidity are delicious. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

88 Château de Chantegrive 2019 Les Oiseaux de Chantegrive La Purete (Graves). A ripe

blend of half-and-half Sauvignon Blanc and Sémil-lon, this wine is tangy, packed with white stone fruits conveying a lightly herbal character. The bot-tling is part of a series of wines contributing a por-tion of proceeds to creating bird sanctuaries. It is fresh and ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Château Jouvente 2019 Graves. Fresh and crisp, this wine is packed with fruitiness

and open acidity. It is gently textured but full of cit-rus and apple flavors. Drink now. Amphorium LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29

88 Château le Bonnat 2019 Graves. Rich Sémil-lon and a touch of perfumed Sauvignon Gris

are the keys to this wine’s refreshing, apple and kiwi flavors. It is a young, tangy wine, offering crispness while also showing the potential for aging. Drink from 2022. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Château Simon 2019 Graves. Bright and floral, with a crisp herbal edge, this wine

is taut and textured. Flavors of white currants, tex-tured acidity and an edge of minerality will come together in the next few months. Drink from late 2021. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

88 Château Tour de Calens 2019 Graves. Fruity and crisp, this wine offers citrus and herbal

flavors that are filled out with tropical and ripe accents. It’s an attractive wine that is developing quickly. Drink from late 2021. The Wine List Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 Domaine du Salut 2019 Graves. Fresh and with attractive perfumed fruit, this wine

has a lift to it. Fresh citrus and white-apple fla-vors are enhanced by the wine’s spiciness and crisp aftertaste. Drink from late 2021. Grand Cru Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

87 Château Boyrein 2019 Graves. This herbal wine is full of tangy, zesty fruits. It is bright,

with a tight texture that will open out. Drink this attractive wine from late 2021. Boivin Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Château du Mouret 2019 Medeville Collection (Graves). This grassy, herbal wine shows

crisp citrus and zesty acidity. It is a young wine, full of fruitiness while needing a few months to soften. Drink from late 2021. Shiverick Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Château Ducasse 2018 Graves. An herbal wine with crisp lime and gooseberry fla-

vors, this is tangy and needs a little time to soften. Drink this fruity wine from late 2021. Heritage Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Château Grand Abord 2019 Graves. This smoothly textured wine has fresh lemon and

tangerine flavors that are given texture by tangy acidity and touches of spice. The wine is bright, fruity and ready to drink. Vitis Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

87 Château la Fleur des Pins 2019 Graves. In this aromatic wine, hints of tropical fruit

contrast with the ripe citrus and tangy texture. The wine will be ready during 2021. Sommailier. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Château Lagrange 2019 Graves. A crisply herbal wine, this is tangy, full of lemon zest

and tight acidity. Floral and fruity, the wine needs a few months to soften. Drink from late 2021. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $38

87 Château Magneau 2019 Graves. This softly textured, perfumed wine is ready to drink.

Fresh fruitiness and a slight tang of acidity give immediate pleasure. Drink from late 2021. Wine Traditions. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Château Moutin 2019 Graves. Bright, crisp and fruity, this wine is all about fresh and

tangy fruit. Citrus and herbalness come through strongly, giving the wine a cool, green-fruit charac-ter. Drink from late 2021. Elixirs du Monde. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

86 Château Coustaut 2019 Graves. This dense, full wine has perfumed white-currant fruits

alongside warm acidity. The wine is soft and ripe, fully textured and likely to be ready to drink from late 2021. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

86 Château de Castres 2019 Graves. With a soft, ripe texture and rounded corners, this

wine is already approaching drinkability. It is full in the mouth, smoothed by pear and kiwi fruit. Drink now. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

85 Château Doms 2019 Graves. Softly tex-tured and with ripe fruits, this wine is

already developed. Green apple and kiwi flavors are accented by tangy citrus. The wine is ready to drink. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

85 Château Mayne du Cros 2019 Landot (Graves). This wine is soft, just lightly tex-

tured. With citrus and sliced-apple flavors lifted by

acidity, the wine is ready to drink. Angel’s Share Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Marquis De Bern 2019 Graves. This simple wine offers gentle fruits and a light tex-

ture. It is easy, generous and ready to drink. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26

BORDEAUX BLANC

92 Clos des Lunes 2018 Lune d’Or (Bordeaux Blanc). This dry, wood-aged wine comes

from vineyards in the Sauternes region. A touch of honey comes through creamed-lemon and spice flavors. Well structured and with aging potential, the wine should be drunk from 2023. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $66

90 Château de Malherbes 2015 Bordeaux Blanc. The richness of Sémillon shows strongly

in this wine and has allowed it to age well. It has a yeasty character, shot through with lemon and touches of honey. This complex wine is definitely mature and should be drunk now. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

90 Le Nardian 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. This rich fruit salad of a wine offers all manner of

tropical and citrus fruits combined with some wood aging. The wine is opulent, with both freshness and great richness. It will age but should be ready rela-tively quickly. Drink from 2022. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Producta Vignobles 2019 Grain de Lune (Bor-deaux Blanc). Sauvignon Gris is increas-

ingly recognized as an important part of a white Bordeaux blend. Here in its pure form it shows its perfumed pedigree and juicy fruitiness. This wine is refreshing, tangy and ready to drink. Wine Circle Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

89 Clos des Lunes 2018 Lune d’Argent (Bor-deaux Blanc). One of a pair of dry wines

produced by the Domaine de Chevalier team from vines in the Sauternes region, this is bright and fruity. With its generous citrus character and tangy texture, it is both ripe and fresh. The wine is just ready to drink. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

88 Producta Vignobles 2019 L’Enigme (Bor-deaux Blanc). Lightly wood aged, this wine

is brightly fruity, just hinting at toastiness. Pineap-ple flavors contrast with the citrus cut of the fresh Sauvignon Blanc. The wine has a few months to go yet, so drink from late 2021. Jandell Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20

WINEMAG.COM | 79

88 Producta Vignobles 2018 Grain de Lune (Bordeaux Blanc). Predominantly perfumed

Sauvignon Gris, this is a beautifully fresh wine. Its crisp texture and lively acidity are enhanced by the wine’s aromatic nature and floral aftertaste. Drink the wine now. Wine Circle Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

OTHER WHITE WINES

90 Château Cantelaudette 2019 Cuvée Pres-tige (Graves de Vayres). This floral, fra-

grant wine, pure Sémillon, is ripe and creamy, with touches of toastiness from wood aging. Kiwi fruit acidity is balanced by hints of honey and white-peach freshness. The wine is still young and will be better from 2022. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

89 Château de la Grave 2019 Grains Fins (Côtes de Bourg). A creamed-apple-flavored wine

with a generous texture and perfumed acidity, this is immediately attractive. Acidity and fruitiness are balanced by the textured edge to give a wine that is ready to drink. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

86 Château Cantelaudette 2019 Graves de Vayres. The 85% Sémillon in this wine

promises an attractive future. Ripe creamed apples are beginning to appear through the crisp texture. The wine will be ready soon, from late 2021. Polaner Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

SWEET WINES

93 Château Bastor-Lamontagne 2018 Sau-ternes. Rich sweetness balanced by textured

botrytis flavors are hallmarks of this ageworthy wine. Honey and apricots give lusciousness but leave room for orange-marmalade freshness. The wine is still very young, so wait to drink until 2025. Advantage International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $50/500 ml

88 Maison Bertrand Ravache 2019 Coteau 85 (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux). This sweet,

ripe wine touched with botrytis is worth aging. Named after the elevation (in meters) of the vine-yard, the wine has apricot and honey flavors, with a dryness that will open up as it matures. Drink from 2022. Evaki Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

BORDEAUXRED WINES

SAINT-ESTÈPHE

94 Château Le Boscq 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint-Estèphe). This well-run estate shows its

pedigree in this latest release. The firm tannins

of the appellation are balanced by powerful black fruits and smoky, wood-aging flavors. The 63% Cabernet Sauvignon is the key to the wine’s struc-ture and aging potential. Drink from 2025. Cham-pagnes & Châteaux USA. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $54

94 Château Le Crock 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint-Estèphe). The Cuvelier family of Léoville-

Poyferré in Saint-Julien have given us a strongly textured and rich wine from this property in Saint-Estèphe. Its power and density will allow it to age well. Drink this wine from 2025. K&L Wine Mer-chants. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

94 Château Lilian Ladouys 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint-Estèphe). Considerable renovation

work is beginning to pay off in the quality of this latest vintage from this estate. The wine has depth, concentration, dark-chocolate flavors, rich tannins and equally rich blackberry fruits. With its high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon,the wine is set for aging and will not be ready before 2025. Château Lilian Ladouys. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

93 Château Haut Coteau 2018 Saint-Estèphe. This dense wine has ripe black-currant fla-

vors from the 50% of Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows the opulence of the vintage allied to a fresh, crisp edge of acidity. Tannins and wood aging accentuate the youth of the wine, which needs time to soften. Drink from 2025. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

93 Château Sérilhan 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint-Estèphe). A rich, generous wine, this has

dense black fruits and ripe tannins. Solid struc-ture marks the wine out as ageworthy. Wait for this blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot to come together. Drink from 2024. Sherry Lehm-ann. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Château de Côme 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint-Estèphe). This small 17-acre property has

produced a sophisticated, black-fruit-flavored wine. Smooth tannins and dense black fruits offer the prospect of a rich wine that is both structured and fruity. Drink this wine from 2025. Baron Fran-cois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

92 Château Laffitte Carcasset 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Saint-Estèphe). The estate on the

plateau of Saint-Estèphe is well situated to produce this rich, full-bodied wine. Broad tannins give the dry core essential for aging. They are balanced by black-currant fruits from the 50% Cabernet Sauvi-gnon in the blend. It will age well; drink from 2025. The Wine Trust. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

91 Château Coussieu-Coutelin 2017 Saint- Estèphe. This ripe, elegant wine has layers

of the typical tannins of the appellation alongside

well-structured, black-currant fruits. With a slight preponderance of Merlot, the blend still leaves room for the fine texture of Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink from 2023. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

91 Château Tour des Termes 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint-Estèphe). The Anney family, own-

ers of this estate, have been growers in the Médoc since the 17th century. This wine, with rich tannins and the typical structure of the appellation, is ripe, packed with black-plum fruits and generous Merlot richness. It is a wine to age, best left until 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Château Haut Coteau 2017 Saint-Estèphe. Reflecting the comparative lightness of the

vintage, this wine has open blackberry fruits and tannins that are just beginning to soften. It will develop into smooth wine as it matures. Drink from 2022. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Château la Commanderie 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint-Estèphe). Packed with richness, this

Merlot-dominated wine has perfumed black fruits shot through with dark tannins. It will take time to soften and fully integrate. Drink from 2024. Wine Source International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 Château Tour de Pez 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Saint-Estèphe). The Pez plateau close to

the village of Saint-Estèphe is home to many estates that use its name. This wine with its solid texture and bold tannins is richly fruity while having a dry, dense core. It will be ready from 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

LISTRAC-MÉDOC

92 Château Fourcas-Borie 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac-Médoc). From one of the estates

owned by the Borie family of Ducru-Beaucaillou in Saint-Julien, this wine has the same fine attention to detail, from the rich tannins to the warm black fruits. Its rich structure is equalled by the generous fruits and considerable aging potential. Drink the wine from 2024. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

92 Château Reverdi 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac- Médoc). With 25% Petit Verdot in the

blend, this is an unusual wine but one that wears its rich, dusty tannins easily. It is full bodied, with structure and dark and concentrated blackberry fruits. Drink this wine from 2024. Petit Pois. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

91 Château Cap Léon Veyrin 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac-Médoc). Wood aged and with attrac-

tive blackberry fruits, this solid wine is packed with dry tannins that will soften. With its structure and concentrated fruits, the wine will age well. Drink

BUYINGGUIDE


this full-bodied wine from 2023. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Château Lestage 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac-Médoc). From an estate owned by the Chan-

freau family in Listrac, this wine currently shows considerable wood-aging flavors that need to inte-grate. Once they have, the weight of the succulent black fruits will start to come through. The wine has potential. Drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

89 Château Vieux Moulin 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac-Médoc). Well placed in the village

of Listrac, this is a fourth-generation estate. This wine’s rich tannins are typical of the appellation, underlying the dense black-plum fruits and com-plex structure. The wine will age well and firmly. Drink from 2024. Private Cask Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

88 Château Saransot-Dupré 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac-Médoc). Named after the Dupré

family, this estate to the west of Listrac has pro-duced a strict, tannic wine. Rich tannins are in dan-ger of overwhelming the fruits. Time will tell, but the wine certainly needs time. Wait to drink until 2024. HB Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

87 Château Capdet 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac-Médoc). Produced by the cooperative of Lis-

trac, this wine comes from a family-owned estate. The wine has a dry core and hints of the wood aging. Black-fruit flavors with a majority of jammy Mer-lot contrast with firm tannins that will soften. The wine will be ready from 2023. Private Cask Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

87 Château L’Ermitage 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Listrac-Médoc). Dominated by Merlot sup-

ported by 20% Petit Verdot, this rich, densely tex-tured blend shows powerful tannins. Dark choco-late and licorice flavors suggest firm extraction that gives the wine a dry character. Everything needs to open, but the elements are there. Drink from 2023. The Wine List Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

MOULIS-EN-MÉDOC

93 Château Biston-Brillette 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Moulis-en-Médoc). Owned by the Barbar-

ian family, this 64-acre estate has produced a con-centrated wine. Bold tannins mingle with perfumed blackberry fruits, promising good aging. Drink this concentrated wine from 2024. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

93 Château Lalaudey 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Moulis -en-Médoc). This wine is richly

structured, with fine tannins from both the fruit

and wood aging. The wine’s power is mitigated by juicy black-currant flavors and the great ripeness. Drink this wine from 2024. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

92 Château Caroline 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Moulis -en-Médoc). From one of several

estates owned by the Chanfreau family in Moulis and Listrac, this is a spicy, obviously wood-aged, wine. If the wood flavors are too prominent at this stage, proper integration comes with the dense blackberry fruits and acidity. So give the wine time and drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Château Chemin-Royal 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Moulis-en-Médoc). While this wine shows

considerable wood-aging flavors, that is temporary. Under that toastiness lies layers of rich tannins and impressive black-currant flavors. The wine has a fine future. Drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 Château Guitignan 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Moulis-en-Médoc). Produced by the coop-

erative in neighboring Listrac, this wine is spicy and packed with wood-aging flavors that hopefully will integrate better. Black-currant fruits provide suste-nance and weight behind the tannins. Let the wine age and drink from 2023. Private Cask Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

MARGAUX

94 Château d’Arsac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Mar-gaux). This wine comes from an estate in

the western end of the Margaux appellation. The rich tannins and structure of the wine show its aging potential. It is complex and structured, black fruits working with the well-judged tannins and dense texture. Drink this wine from 2026. Mon-sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

94 Château Mongravey 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Margaux). A richly structured wine burst-

ing with black fruits, this is rich in tannins and wood-aging flavors. This latest release from the estate in western Margaux is still very young but has great promise. The dominance of Cabernet Sau-vignon gives the black-currant fruit and the tannins for aging. Drink this wine from 2024. Aquitaine Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

93 Château Bellevue de Tayac 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Margaux). This is a small, 10-acre

estate at the northern limit of Margaux. Perfumed and showing new-wood-aging flavors, this wine is well balanced with blackberry fruits. The wine’s elegance is assured as is its aging potential. Drink

from 2025. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45

93 Château la Fortune 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Mar-gaux). A mere six acres, this property is

producing some fine wines. This vintage has initial softness and elegance. Fresh black fruits partner with the underlying tannic structure that will let it age. Drink this wine from 2025. Advantage Interna-tional. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

92 Château Deyrem Valentin 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Margaux). While this wine does suffer from

high alcohol, it also shows much of the Margaux elegance. The firm tannins and bold structure are mitigated by succulent and ripe black-currant fla-vors. It needs to age, not to be drunk before 2025. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $47

92 Château Paveil de Luze 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Margaux). Young but already elegant and

complex, this wine is destined for long-term aging. Ripe blackberry fruits and serious tannins will take time to mature. Drink from 2025 when this wine will be in balance. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

HAUT-MÉDOC

93 Château Belle-Vue 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). With a blend that has an

unusual 18% Petit Verdot, this wine is dark in color and firm, with big black-fruit flavors. It is rich, intense and full of tannins that indicate great aging potential. This powerful wine is likely to be ready from 2025. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

93 Château Cissac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This is an impressive wine. Domi-

nated by Cabernet Sauvignon, it is full of black-plum fruits, rich tannins and great potential. The velvet texture brings out an opulent, succulent character that will remain as the wine ages. It needs to age, so drink from 2025. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29

93 Château d’Agassac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This elegantly structured

wine already shows good balance between its tan-nins and generous black-currant fruits. The struc-ture will allow it to age, promising a civilized wine that will be ready from 2023. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

93 Château de Lamarque 2018 Haut-Médoc. The estate associated with this medieval bastion

of Lamarque is producing some fine wines. This lat-est release certainly has the density and powerful richness of the vintage. But this is balanced by the structure and tannins from the Cabernet Sauvignon

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in the blend. The wine should wait. It will be ready from 2025. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

93 Château du Taillan 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). A high proportion of Mer-

lot in this blend gives richness and fruity intensity. The wine is juicy, succulent with black-plum flavors that are full and fleshy in the mouth. Its structure promises plenty of aging, so wait to drink the wine until 2024. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

93 Château la Tonnelle 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This is already a delicious

wine. Black fruits shine through the wood and tan-nin structure to promise a fine future. Rich while not at all overwhelming, the wine’s perfumes and black-currant flavors come from the high propor-tion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. This is a wine to age well. Drink from 2024. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

93 Château Paloumey 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). Situated in the southern

Médoc, this estate of 84 acres has produced a per-fumed and rich wine. It has sensuality to it from the ripe Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Wood aging gives spice and a full, generous texture. Everything is in place for a good future. Drink from 2025. Mon-sieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

93 Château Reysson 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). Rich in black fruits, this wine

shows great promise. Ripe tannins and spice are cut by juicy black-currant flavors. The 133-acre estate, west of Pauillac, has produced a wine that will age. Drink from 2025. Champagnes & Châteaux USA. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Château Arnauld 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This ripe, juicy wine comes from

a vineyard planted around a medieval priory. The wine has spice, ripe tannins and attractive black-currant and red-berry fruits. The winning combina-tion should age well, so drink from 2023. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $55

92 Château Beaumont 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). Under the same manage-

ment as Château Beychevelle in Saint-Julien, this estate is now showing its fine potential. The balance between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot means vivid fruits as well as rich tannins. The wine should develop well but it will be best to wait until 2024. Maison Barriere USA. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

92 Château de Malleret 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This is the latest release

from this grand estate in the southern Médoc. Bold tannins go well with the richly structured black-

berry fruits and spiciness. The wine, ripe with Merlot, will age well. Drink from 2024. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

92 Château du Cartillon 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). Close to the small port of

Lamarque in central Haut-Médoc, this estate offers a wine that is rich and densely packed with black fruits. Wood aging has given this young wine a dry core that promises good aging. Drink from 2024. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24

92 Château du Retout 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This wine has dense tannins

along with perfumed spice, rich blackberry fruits and the weight of the alcohol. At this stage, all the elements are poised to integrate, promising a wine with a rich, full and concentrated future. Drink from 2024. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

92 Château Larose Perganson 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Haut-Médoc). Associated with

Larose-Trintaudon, this estate has produced a dense wine. Rich tannins, spice, blackberry fruits and smoky acidity are all set for good aging. The wine’s concentration is impressive and it should not be drunk before 2024. Monsieur Touton Selec-tion Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

92 Château le Monteil d’Arsac 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Haut-Médoc). This wine comes from

the portion of the Arsac estate that is not in the appellation of Margaux. Rich tannins and full-bod-ied ripeness indicate the finesse of the estate and the potential of the wine. The juicy aftertaste bodes equally well. Drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

92 Château Lestage Simon 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This complex wine has lay-

ers of black-currant fruits under the firm, dry tex-ture. It shows great potential, with the Cabernet Sauvignon lending structure to the ripe Merlot. The wine should be ready from 2024. Advantage Inter-national. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

92 Château Maurac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). A 24-acre vineyard close to Saint-

Estèphe has produced this rich and dense wine. Tannins give a solid base to generous black-plum and berry fruits. Initially it seems as though this wine will develop quickly, but that is deceptive. With the tannic core and firm aftertaste, the wine will take its time. Drink from 2024. Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

92 Château Peyrabon 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This estate, touching Pauil-

lac, belongs to the Bernard family, also owners of Domaine de Chevalier. Rich tannins and wood aging

have given intense spice to this wine that is bold, rich and concentrated. The vivid, ripe black fruits will calm down as the wine ages further, giving a balanced, smooth blend. Drink from 2025. AHD Vintners. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

92 Château Peyredon Lagravette 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Haut-Médoc). This 24-acre property

has large plantings of old vines, dominated by the Cabernet Sauvignon that appears in this blend. That gives the wine shape and tannins, as well as rich black-currant fruits. This succulent wine is likely to age well. Drink from 2024. Polaner Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

91 Château Clément-Pichon 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). Under the same ownership

as Château la Dominique in Saint-Émilion, this estate has produced a ripe, Merlot-dominated wine. Although the fruit is intense, this wine has poise and clarity, giving some lightness. It will be worth waiting for this wine until 2024. Atherton Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26

91 Château de Braude 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). The vineyard is situated just west

of Château Mongravey. Firm tannins are derived both from wood and fruit, giving this wine power and potential. Black fruits are beautifully perfumed from the wood aging. This wine should develop well. Drink from 2024. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

91 Château Haut-Logat 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). A smooth and richly textured

wine, this has equal proportions of Merlot and Cab-ernet Sauvignon. Dark-chocolate flavors balance ripe blackberry fruits and firm tannins to produce a wine that is sure to age. Drink from 2023. Cheval Quancard. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Château Lamothe-Cissac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). From an estate owned by the

Fabre family, this juicy wine offers black-currant flavors from the 58% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is ripe and attractively balanced, full of berry flavors and good acidity. The wine has the vibrancy of youth but will age well, so wait until 2023. Deutsch Fam-ily Wine and Spirits. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Château Larose-Trintaudon 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Haut-Médoc). From one of the larg-

est estates in the Médoc, this wine is packed with black-currant fruits and elegant tannins. Initially it seems light, but a core of structure and classic poise between fruit and tannin make the wine a candidate for aging. Drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton Selec-tion Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

91 Château Maucamps 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). Balanced between tannins

BUYINGGUIDE


and black fruits, this wine is dense and solid, show-ing the opulent fruit of this vintage. It does have a structure and therefore aging potential, rich in blackberry flavors and with a dry core. Drink from 2023. DS Trading Co. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Château Bernadotte 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). Named after the royal fam-

ily of Sweden, this estate is now producing wines worthy of the pedigree. This latest release is rich and balanced, offering black fruits dominated by Merlot and bold tannins. It is a powerful wine that will take time. Drink from 2024. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Château Corconnac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This 21-acre, family-owned

estate has produced an attractively fruity wine. The balance between tannins and vibrant black fruits promises a generous future. Black-currant flavors from the 65% Cabernet Sauvignon gives a final fresh layer on top of the tannins. Drink from 2023. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

90 Château la Croix Margautot 2018 Haut- Médoc. Ripe and juicy, this wine is all about

generous black fruits. Its dense texture and struc-ture from the 55% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend shows the aging potential. Drink from 2023. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Château Magnol 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). For full review see page 16.

abv: 13% Price: $30

90 Château Meyre 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). With luscious black fruits, this

wine is immediately attractive. The structure also has plenty of promise. Underneath the blackberry fruitiness, a dry, solid base will allow the wine to age. Drink from 2024. Organic. BBR Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29

90 Château Ramage la Batisse 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Haut-Médoc). This structured wine

is elegant in its balance between tannins and black fruits, making it a candidate for long-term aging. A smoky character from wood aging is integrating well with the structure. Drink this wine from 2024. Vin-tage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

90 Château Troupian 2018 Haut-Médoc. Under the same ownership as Château Lestage

Simon, this wine has a richly balanced, solidly tex-tured character. Black-currant and red-berry fruits already show well, offering the potential for ripe-ness and freshness as the wine matures. Drink from 2023. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $19

89 Château Cap l’Ousteau 2018 Haut-Médoc. This is a stylish wine from the central

Médoc close to Margaux. Finely wrought tannins support black-currant fruits. Drink this attractive wine that has potential balance from 2023. Advan-tage International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

89 Château d’Arcins 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This estate owned by the Castel

family is starting to show its real potential. The wine has fine tannins and elegant black fruits, encased in a structure that will allow the wine to age. Drink from 2022. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

89 Château du Moulin Rouge 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Haut-Médoc). This wine from a

44-acre estate close to the Gironde estuary is rich in jammy black fruit from the Merlot in the blend. There is plenty of structure as well, giving the wine a chance to age. Drink this attractive wine from 2023. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

89 Château Haut-Logat 2016 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). Almost half-and-half Merlot

and Cabernet Sauvignon with just a touch of Caber-net Franc, this wine is ripe, firm with smoky black fruits and solid tannins. The tannins of the year are still in place and likely to remain but the weight of fruit gives contrast and balance. Drink from 2022. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Château la Lauzette Declercq 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Haut-Médoc). The 55% Cabernet

Sauvignon and the 14 months in wood have pro-duced a wine that has good balance and potential. Black-currant flavors are still firmly in thrall to tan-nins that will surely soften. Drink from 2023. Eagle Eye Brands. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $27

89 Château Landat 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This vibrant wine is packed with

blackberry flavors. While the wood aging shows strongly at this stage, that will subside as the fruiti-ness makes its presence felt. This full, generous wine will be ready to drink from 2024. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $27

89 Château Liversan 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This structured and firm wine

shows bold tannins and rich black fruits. Spice from wood aging mingles with the juicy acidity and pow-erful texture. The edge of extraction does spoil the wine, but it could dissipate. Wait until 2024. Can-non Wines Limited. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

89 Château Puy Castera 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This ripe and spicy wine

shows plenty of wood-aging flavors while not leav-ing any of the rich black-currant fruits behind. The wine is full, typically generous for the vintage, and

has a good future. Drink from 2024. Traditions & Innovations. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

88 Château Balac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). Owned by the Touchais family

originally from Anjou in the Loire, this estate is now in its third generation. The wine is spicy, showing dry tannins that are sure to soften. It will mature into a full wine, structured and ready to drink from 2023. E-Corp Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Château Barreyres 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). From near the village of

Arcins in the heart of the Haut-Medoc, this is an easygoing, juicy wine. The tannins, already soft, generously support the ripe, black-currant fruits. It is likely to develop quickly, so drink from 2022. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $27

88 Château Bellegrave du Poujeau 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). In the southern

Médoc, this 10-acre estate has produced an open, softly fruity wine. The tannins and the wood aging offer structure to support the black fruits and fresh acidity. This wine will be ready from 2023. DS Trading Co. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Château Bibian 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This estate close to Listrac has pro-

duced a wine that shares some of the firm tannins of that appellation. Dark and with a strong struc-ture, this wine will take time to develop. Drink from 2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Château Doyac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This blend with 80% Merlot has

considerable power and richness. The weight is pal-pable, bursting with black fruits and dry tannins. It is still young and the wine will soften over the next years. Drink from 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Château Lacour Jacquet 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). In the heart of the Médoc

and close to the Gironde estuary, this vineyard has produced a wine solidly based on dry, firm tannins. Blackberry fruits emphasize the rich texture. The wine will certainly age, and should be ready from 2023. LBV Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24

88 Château Vieux Landat 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This estate in Cissac, north

of Saint-Estèphe, has produced a ripe and struc-tured wine that balances fresh black fruitiness and acidity with a core of dry tannins. The shape of the wine and its finely wrought texture promise good aging. Drink from 2023. Pier 71 Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29

87 Château de Villambis 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). This wine is richly textured,

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with both ripe tannins and generous black fruits. Offering spice, black-currant flavors and fresh acid-ity at the end, this very drinkable wine will be ready soon. Drink from 2022. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

87 Château Haut-Logat 2016 Haut-Galot (Haut-Médoc). From an estate owned by negociant

Cheval Quancard, this second wine is lightly spicy while also structured and firm from tannins that lie behind the blackberry fruits. Rich and with a solid, dry core, the wine is developing well, ready from late 2021. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26

87 Château Saint Ahon 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc). With 61% Cabernet Sau-

vignon, this blend is well structured and layered with tannins and fresh blackberry fruits. A dry core needs to soften, so wait until 2023. Elixirs du Monde. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

84 Château Tour Saint-Joseph 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Haut-Médoc). Owned by negociant

Cheval Quancard, this toasty wine offers superripe black fruits. Big tannins push the wine out of shape, flattening overripeness. Cheval Quancard. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

MÉDOC

92 Château Fleur la Mothe 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). A group of the top wine consul-

tants in the Médoc own this estate, where most vines are on gravel mounds (mothe in the local patois means mound). This latest release balances the necessary structure and rich, black-currant fruits. With a dense texture of tannins, the wine will age. Drink from 2023. Premier Wine Co. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $14

92 Château La Cardonne 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This wine offers rich tannins and

dense black fruits in equal proportions. The struc-ture, with the dry core, shows great promise and the wine is definitely worth aging. Drink from 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

92 Château la Tour de By 2018 Cuvée Héritage (Médoc). Sophisticated tannins and rich

wood flavors go with the generous black fruits of this Merlot-dominated wine. It is powered by dark berry flavors and the core of dryness, both of which promise good aging over the years. Drink this wine from 2024. K&L Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

92 Château Ramafort 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). From an 18 parcel vineyard once

owned by Lafite-Rothschild. Rich tannins are pol-ished and smoothly textured, belying the firm back-

drop of tannins. Fruity now, the wine is worth wait-ing for. Drink from 2024. Baron Francois Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

91 Château Castera 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). The wine from this large 150-acre estate is

always reliable. This latest release may have consid-erable wood-aging flavors at this stage but it also offers delicious black-currant fruits to go with the ripe tannins. It is a wine to age, so wait until 2024. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28

91 Château Fonréaud 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). The home vineyard for the Chan-

freau family has produced this dense wine that shows some of the firm tannins of a Listrac. At the same time, the rich fruit typical of the vintage, from equal proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, is prominent, giving good aging potential. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

91 Château Grivière 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This powerful, Merlot-dominated wine

shows great concentration and richness. The den-sity is enhanced by the core of dark tannins while leaving plenty of room for the blackberry and dark-plum flavors. This will be an attractive wine, but wait until 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23

91 Château la Tour de By 2018 Médoc. The struc-tured Cabernet Sauvignon in this ripe wine

gives attractive black-currant flavors and a core of tannins that will allow it to age. It is a great food wine: fruity, structured and sure to age well. Drink from 2024. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $22

91 Château Lestruelle 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). Succulent and juicy, this is a full,

rich wine. Its tannins and black-currant fruiti-ness are already in harmony, giving a wine that is both delicious and structured. It should age well, so drink this full-bodied wine from 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

90 Château Amour 2018 Médoc. A half-and-half blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sau-

vignon, this is a ripe, black-currant-flavored and smoothly textured wine. Light smokiness from wood aging brings complexity. Acidity comes through freshly and strongly at the end. Drink from 2022. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

90 Château Bessan Ségur 2016 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). Ripe and smoky, this wine is

just approaching maturity. Blackberry fruits are matched by spice and hints of toastiness from wood aging. It has ripe berries, acidity and the poten-

tial for a little more aging. Drink from 2022. Black Hawk Imports. —R.V. abv: 125% Price: $17

90 Château Campillot 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This wine is immediately attrac-

tive. Wood aging gives a smoky character to the warm black fruits. Tannins give support and a dry core that will allow the wine to age. Drink from 2023. The Wine Source. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Château Fontis 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). The 24-acre estate has produced a struc-

tured wine, still showing some of its wood aging but also giving richness and density. Because of its youthful fruit and tannins, this wine is set for aging. Drink from 2023. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $9

90 Château Gemeillan 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). Full-bodied, ripe blackberry

fruits shine strongly in this rich wine. Succulent fruitiness is allied to a core of tannins. This wine comes from a much improved and restored estate, now worth watching. Drink the wine from 2023. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

90 Château Le Bourdieu 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon

with a touch of Petit Verdot make a satisfying blend in this ripe, smoky and warmly structured wine. It still has plenty of tannin while the black fruits are pushing forward. The wine needs more time, so drink from 2023. Cutting Edge Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

90 Château le Vieux Fort 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This elegant wine is spiced with

wood aging that will soften and poised with black-currant fruits. A fine layer of acidity balances the tannins and gives the wine freshness and potential. Drink from 2023. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Château Patache d’Aux 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). With its preponderance of Cab-

ernet Sauvignon, this wine has rich, structured tannins as well as black-currant fruits. Wood aging has smoothed the wine, leaving a spicy character and plenty of ripeness. This latest release from the estate, which is on an upward trend, needs some aging. Drink from 2023. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

90 Château Tour Prignac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). Half-and-half Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon and Merlot, this wine from a 350-acre estate is perfumed, ripe with rich tannins. At the same time, a juicy, black-currant character gives fresh-ness. The structure promises the aging, so drink from 2023. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

BUYINGGUIDE


89 Château Beauvillage 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This wine falls just on the right

side of too much wood aging. The fruit is dense and powerful enough to cope with the toastiness, but it will take time for the wine to integrate fully. Drink from 2023. L & L International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

89 Château Bessan Ségur 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). Still showing its wood aging, this

wine nevertheless has a balanced future. Black-cur-rant fruits from the blend of four grapes, including Petit Verdot and Malbec, are bold with flavor and ripe acidity. Drink this wine from 2023. Château Bessan Ségur. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21

89 Château des Collines 2015 Médoc. This wine, now mature, is ripe with generous

black fruits that have softened and opened into the tannic structure. Produced by the Colmeyn family, the softly textured blend holds mainly Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink the wine now. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

89 Château la Chandellière 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). The Secret family has produced a

firm wine, structured with tannins but also with a serious weight of fruit. High alcohol doesn’t seem a problem with this wine because of its fresh, bright black currants. It will age and smooth out, so wait until 2024. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

89 Château la Roque de By 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This property of the Pagès family

has given us an attractively fruity wine. Tannins are still young and the black-currant fruit is still fresh and juicy. This half-and-half blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon will develop well, ready from 2023. K&L Wine Merchants. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $13

89 Château la Tour de By 2017 Cuvée Héritage (Médoc). This is a lean wine, with fresh

black currant fruits and a light touch of tannins. Brightness is enhanced by acidity and the perfumed aftertaste. Drink from 2022. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

89 Château le Temple 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). A rich, Cabernet Sauvignon-

dominated wine, this is spicy, hinting at the wood aging but packed with full, ripe blackberry flavors. Tannins and fruit are developing in parallel, and the wine will be ready from 2022. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $14

89 Château Noaillac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). With almost equal proportions of

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is clas-sic. Touched by wood, but with the fruit very much up front, the wine has richness, a smoky character

and promise. Drink this ripe wine from 2024. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

88 Château Clément Saint-Jean 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Médoc). This estate, inland from the

Gironde, has produced a ripe, generously textured and black-currant-flavored wine. It is full, spicy with a touch of pepper and bursting with young tannins and fruit. Drink the wine from 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

88 Château l’Argenteyre 2016 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). A rich and juicy wine with a fine

future, this is full of berry fruits and still-young, firm tannins. Wood aging does show at the moment but the rich fruit will allow everything to come together. Drink the wine from 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Château la Gorce 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This wine comes from a 118-acre

estate. It is stalky, with closed black fruits that need time to soften and smooth out. Likewise, the tannin structure is still dry and also needs time. But this wine has a future. Wait to drink until 2023. Bridge Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

88 Château la Tour de By 2017 Médoc. This wine is dry, the tannins still dominant. But it will

soften, bringing out some fruitiness. But the black-currant flavors are light, leaving tight acidity at the end. Drink from late 2021. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

88 Château Pey de Pont 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This third-generation-owned

estate planted to a majority of Merlot has given us a smoothly textured, rich wine, full of juicy black fruits that mask the firm tannins. The wine will develop quickly and be ready from 2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

88 Château Poitevin 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This ripe, spicy wine is full of

black-currant fruits. It has a layer of firm tannins as well as hints of wood-aging flavors. All these ele-ments will come together well as the wine matures. It will be worth waiting until 2023. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Château Saint-Hilaire 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This softly textured wine is spicy,

with some smokiness to go with the black fruits. A core of tannins is maturing behind the vibrant fruit. Drink this wine from 2023. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Château Vieux Robin 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This 25-acre estate has been

owned by the same family since 1840. Its latest

release is structured and full of dry tannins, but with the promise of balanced black-fruit flavors. It will take time to develop and should not be drunk before 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Château la France Delhomme 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Médoc). The 90% Merlot in this

wine gives richness while the high alcohol brings in a burn of pepper on the palate. Black fruits are rich, dense and packed with juicy acidity to contrast with the bold structure. The wine will be ready from 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $20

87 Château la Ribaud 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). Unusually there is a small percent-

age of Malbec in this wine. It is fruity ,with fresh black-currant flavors as well as juicy acidity. Drink this attractive wine from 2022. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $10

87 Château les Tresquots 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This fresh, ripe wine shows spicy

wood-aging flavors as well as black-currant fruits. The wood aging needs to integrate better before the wine will be ready to drink. Wait until 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 Château Moulin de Canhaut 2018 Cru Bour-geois (Médoc). With a fresh, juicy character,

this wine is bright, full of black-currant fruits and fresh acidity. With its light texture and tannins, the wine will age quickly. Drink from 2022. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Château Bournac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This big, rich wine is solid with

ripe Merlot fruits and dense tannins. The wine does have some juiciness, but its weight and pepper edge from alcohol spoil the blackberry fruits. Drink the wine from 2023. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $20

86 Château Haut Barrail 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). A high proportion of Merlot gives

this wine a juicy, jammy character that dominates the core of tannins and the spicy, grilled-almond flavors. The wine will develop quickly, so drink from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Château Ladignac 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). This simple fruity wine is lightly

spicy, with plenty of blackberry fruits. Although tannins are up front at this stage they will soon give way to the wine’s natural fruitiness. Drink from 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 Château Maison Blanche 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). From one of the estates owned by

the Bouey family, this wine has richness as well as straight, taut structure. The combination, tough at

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this stage, promises well and the wine should be drunk from 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

86 Château Méric 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). Although this wine is fruity, the tannins

and wood-aging toastiness show most strongly. The wine has some future but it is likely to be a dry, firm one. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

86 Château Roquegrave 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). From an estate close to Gironde

estuary, this wine has tannins that are already soft-ening, giving fresh fruitiness and lightly perfumed acidity. Aged partly in wood, the wine will develop quickly. Drink from 2022. Lionstone International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $18

85 Château La Branne 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). There was probably over-enthu-

siastic wood aging in this wine that suffers from heavy toastiness. Fruit has been submerged by spice and smokiness. While the balance will be restored, there will always be this residue of wood flavors. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

84 Château Pontey 2018 Cru Bourgeois (Médoc). The superripe fruit is mushy, softly textured

and probably too generous. The tannins do come to the rescue, giving some shape to this wine’s flabby fruitiness. Traditions & Innovations. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN

96 Domaine de Chevalier 2018 Pessac-Léognan. With the 65% Cabernet Sauvignon in the

blend, this wine shows its pedigree, richness and potential. Tannins are almost velvet in their texture while packing a fine punch and conveying plenty of longevity. The ripeness of the vintage balances with the structure. Drink the wine from 2027. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $93

95 Château Carbonnieux 2018 Pessac-Léognan. This structured, dense wine is packed with

as much tannins as fruit at this stage. Balance is coming and this ripe wine, with its solid, dark tex-ture and black-plum fruits, holds good promise. Drink from 2025. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

94 Château Couhins-Lurton 2018 Pessac-Léog-nan. This wine comes from one of several

estates owned by the Lurton family in Pessac-Léognan. Rich in tannins as well as black fruits, this release is dense and complex, powered by its structure as much as by the fruit. It is a wine with potential, so wait to drink until 2026. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

94 Château de Fieuzal 2018 Pessac-Léognan. A wine that will take time to balance out, this

has dense, dark and dry tannins at this stage. These underline the richness of the black fruits and acid-ity, giving a wine that will need to age to lose its firm edge. Drink from 2025. The Wine Trust. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

93 Château Bouscaut 2018 Pessac-Léognan. While wood-aging shows strongly at this

stage, this wine has a fine future thanks to dense black fruits that give richness, balance and acidity. The wine will develop slowly, so wait until 2025. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

93 Château Carbonnieux 2018 La Croix de Car-bonnieux (Pessac-Léognan). The second

wine of Carbonnieux, this has structure and a firm core of tannins. Despite the high alcohol, it is fruity with black-currant flavors and some aging poten-tial. Drink this well-formed wine from 2023. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

93 Château Couhins 2018 Pessac-Léognan. This wine is richly endowed with dark tannins

and swathes of ripe black fruits. Dry with a dense tannic character, the wine has a good future. The black fruits and rich structure promise much. Drink from 2025. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

93 Château la Garde 2016 Pessac-Léognan. This wine from a large estate in the southern

part of Pessac-Léognan is richly textured, packed with dense black-currant fruits. The concentration and density are enhanced by firm black tannins and succulent fruitiness. Drink this wine from 2024. Champagnes & Châteaux USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

93 Château Lespault-Martillac 2018 Pessac-Léognan. This wine, produced by the wine-

making team of Domaine de Chevalier, is dense with solid tannins and black fruits. Everything is bursting with energy, still very young. But the wine has potential, the succulent black-currant flavors showing the way forward. Drink from 2025. Mul-tiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $37

93 Domaine de Chevalier 2018 L’Esprit de Che-valier (Pessac-Léognan). The second wine

of Domaine de Chevalier, this shows all the richness of the vintage, with weighty tannins and a generous future. Blackberry fruits and a core that promises plenty of potential as the dryness softens contribute to what will be a richly structured, complex wine. Drink from 2026. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $37

92 Château Latour-Martillac 2018 Lagrave- Martillac (Pessac-Léognan). This is the sec-

ond wine of Latour-Martillac. The wine is ripe and

while it does have tannins, it emphasizes the rich black fruits. A touch of smokiness from wood aging gives spice to the wine. Drink from 2023. Wine Source International. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Château Pont Saint-Martin 2018 Pessac-Léognan. A powerful and dense wine, this

shows the richness and the alcohol of the year. From vines that grow just south of Bordeaux city, the wine offers great tannins, a juicy black-currant character and obvious potential. Drink from 2023. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

92 Château Roche-Lalande 2018 Pessac --Léognan. A blend of 50% Cabernets, this

is solid and rich in black-currant and spice flavors. It has the weight and potential to age well, showing plenty of dark tannins and acidity. Drink this wine from 2024. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

92 Domaine de la Solitude 2018 Pessac- Léognan. This wine comes from an estate

owned by a religious order and managed by Domaine de Chevalier. Luscious black fruits are sophisticated and full. Embedded in the black fruits, the tannins are just showing their potential as the wine opens out. This will be a fine wine with time. Drink from 2025. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $31

91 Château Bouscaut 2018 Les Chênes de Bous-caut (Pessac-Léognan). Smoky and ripe, this

generously textured, rich second wine has delicious black-currant fruitiness as well as layers of spice from wood aging. The wine will be ready from 2023. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

91 Château Couhins 2018 La Dame de Couhins (Pessac-Léognan). Structured with firm,

dark tannins and rich with concentrated black fruits, this second wine is still coming together. The tight, spicy character will soften over the next months giving a dense, rich wine. Drink from 2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91 Château de Fieuzal 2018 L’Abeille de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan). For full review see page

13. abv: 13% Price: $41

90 Château Latour-Martillac 2017 Lagrave- Martillac (Pessac-Léognan). The second

wine of Château Latour-Martillac, this is ripe and juicy, with light wood aging and a spicy character. Soft but with a good streak of tight acidity, the wine is likely to be ready to drink from 2023. Wine Source International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 Domaine La Roche 2018 Pessac-Léognan. With its soft tannins and balance between

black fruits and structure, this generous, open wine

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is developing well. The fruitiness, spice and wood-aging flavors are still young. Drink from 2023. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

GRAVES

93 Château de Cérons 2018 Graves. This grand estate is located just north of the village of

Cérons. Its renaissance is now complete and this latest release is well structured, rich with dense tannins and juicy with black-currant flavors. The wine will certainly age. Drink from 2023. Wine-berry America LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24

92 Château de Chantegrive 2018 Graves. This wine is young but has great potential. The

tannins shine, balanced with powerful black fruits and a solid, dense texture. The wine will age well and will be at its best from 2023. Saranty Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

92 Château de la Brède 2018 Graves. The vine-yard of the ancient moated castle of La

Brède, birthplace of writer Montesquieu, has pro-duced a densely structured, dark and firm wine. It is lots of potential with ripe tannins and powerful black fruits developing in the background. Drink from 2023. DS Trading Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45

92 Château des Places 2018 Agora (Graves). Wood aging has given this rich wine a per-

fumed character, as well as dry tannins that will soften over the next years. This ripe and structured wine will be ready from 2023. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $38

92 Château du Seuil 2018 Graves. This is an elegant wine, structured with firm tannins

and finely wrought black fruits. Hints of the wood aging will become fully integrated with the other elements over the next few months. This wine needs time, so drink from 2023. Organic. DB Wine Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

92 Château Ferrande 2018 Graves. From one of the best-performing estates in the Graves

appellation, this wine has rich tannins as well as dense black-currant fruits. It is a solid, dark and likely long-lived wine. Drink from 2022. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27

92 Château Haut Selve 2018 Réserve (Graves). Low-yielding parcels of vines provide the

fruit for this wood-aged wine. It has weight and a serious side, emphasizing ripeness and powerful concentration. The wine’s density will soften into richness and opulence. Drink from 2023. Baron Francois Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

91 Château Calvimont 2018 Graves. This wine comes from specific parcels in the Château de

Cérons estate. It is light, with a fresh line of black-currant fruits. Solid tannins in the background assure further aging. Drink from 2022. EU. Family Estates. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

91 Clos Floridène 2018 Graves. One of the prop-erties of the Dubourdieu family, this estate

has made a rich wine, packed with tannins as well as black fruits. It has concentration and wood-aging flavors that are still prominent, but the future looks good. Drink from 2023. AP Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23

90 Château Crabitey 2018 Graves. This rich wine is powered by tannins and generous

blackberry fruits. It is currently dry, with a firm core. But the wine has weight and will develop well. Drink from 2023. Premier Wine Co. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 Château de Castres 2018 Graves. This wine has perfumed wood flavors, hints of

mint and plenty of black fruits. Rich tannins come through strongly in this full-bodied wine that offers generous fruitiness and structure. Drink from 2023. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Château de Chantegrive 2018 Les Oiseaux de Chantegrive L’Origine (Graves). Power-

ful and rich, this is a densely textured, wood-aged wine. Ripe blackberry fruits are laced with per-fumed crisp acidity that will support the wine as it matures. It will be a full and juicy wine from 2022. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Château de Portets 2018 Graves. This ripe, spicy wine is full of black fruits and toasty

wood-aging flavors. Tannins and a rich structure add to the density and potential. This wine will be ready from 2023. Sommailier. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

90 Château Ducasse 2018 Graves. This struc-tured wine with generous tannins has a fine

future. Black fruits and the rich texture promise a wine that will be warm, full and packed with fruiti-ness. Drink from 2022. Heritage Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Château Haut Selve 2018 Graves. The Graves estate is now on its 23rd vintage since the

purchase by the Lesgourgues family. This vintage has richness and a ripe line of black fruits that are richly embedded in the still young tannic structure. The wood aging has added spice to the mix. Drink this wine from 2023. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Château Saint-Robert 2018 Cuvée Poncet-Deville (Graves). Almost pure Merlot, this

wine comes from old vines that give rich, envelop-

ing tannins as well as generous black fruits. The richness and smoothing nature of the wood aging have given this wine excellent potential. Drink from 2023. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29

90 Château Trébiac 2018 Graves. Owned by the De Butler family, this estate has produced a

soft, juicy and black-fruited wine. Generous tannins and crisp acidity come together with succulent fruit to give a wine that will develop quickly. Drink from 2022. The Wine Company. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

90 Vieux Château Gaubert 2018 Graves. This dry yet ripe wine comes from one of the top

estates in the Graves. Tannins confer richness and add substance to the black fruits. Drink this wine from 2022. DS Trading Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $32

89 Château Lagrange 2018 Graves. This wine is rich and concentrated. Powerful tannins

and a dense texture are supported by solid black-berry fruits. The wine will take time to develop to drinkabilty, so wait until 2023. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

89 Château le Bonnat 2018 Graves. A rich, per-fumed wine from an estate owned by the

Lesgourgues family that also produces Armagnac. The wine is juicy and with an attractive freshness and bright fruitiness. Drink from 2022. Baron Fran-cois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

89 Château Magneau 2018 Graves. Smoky and strongly toasty, this wine has a firm struc-

ture. The blackberry fruits are a hint in the distance, but they are there and will begin to show their juicy attractiveness. It is worth waiting for this wine. Drink from 2022. Wine Traditions. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Château Peyreblanque 2018 Medeville Col-lection (Graves). This wine has a dry core

that shows strongly beside the black-currant fla-vors. It is generous, with good potential in the fruit-iness stakes as well as plenty of structure for aging. Drink from 2023. Shiverick Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

89 Château Tour de Calens 2018 Graves. This structured wine has firm tannins under

the luscious blackberry fruits. Acidity and touches of spice bring balance and richness. The wine should age well, filling out the tannins over the next months. Drink from 2022. The Wine List Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

89 Château Tour de Castres 2018 Graves. A modern, polished style of wine, this offers

rich tannins, aromatic wood flavors and a good structure. The density and concentration will take some time to soften, so drink from 2023. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

WINEMAG.COM | 87

88 Château Camus 2018 Graves. The tannins are dense and richly concentrated in this

blackberry-flavored, structured wine. It is obviously very young, showing its wood aging as well as suc-culent fruits and acidity. The wine will take its time, so drink from 2022. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

88 Château Coustaut 2018 Graves. Fruity and soft, this is already an attractive wine. Uno-

aked and unfined, it has light tannins that are com-ing together with fresh black-currant fruits. The wine will be ready from 2022. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $22

88 Château Doms 2018 Graves. Big and ripe, this is a full-bodied, generous wine. Rich

blackberry fruits and dark tannins burst with energy and juicy acidity. Drink the wine from 2022. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 Château du Mouret 2018 Medeville Collec-tion (Graves). This full, ripe and juicy wine

is full of balanced blackberry fruits. Tannins sup-port this bright fruitiness while marching with the acidity towards some good aging. Drink from 2022. Shiverick Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

88 Château Grand Abord 2018 Graves. This wine is firm and dry, with a bitter edge of

extraction that needs to soften. It has freshness that will stand the wine in good stead as it move for-ward. But wait for the wine to soften until 2022. Vitis Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $38

88 Château Lugaud 2018 Graves. This wine is rich, but its acidity and red fruits are

already balanced. There are some firm tannins in this young wine but the freshness and juiciness will bring it forward quickly. Drink from late 2021. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29

88 Domaine du Salut 2018 Graves. While you can taste the wood aging in this wine, there

is also plenty of potential fruitiness to balance. The black-currant flavors, spice and acidity mean the wine will be ready from 2022. Grand Cru Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Château Boyrein 2018 Graves. In this per-fumed wine, serious layers of wood aging

currently mask the black-currant fruits. There is enough weight to give potential richness and fresh-ness, promising a balanced wine. Drink from 2022. Boivin Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

87 Château des Graves 2018 Graves. Firm, dry and showing some signs of extraction, this

is a richly worked wine. Solid and dense in the center and paired with black fruits, the wine is full

bodied and suffers from a burn of pepper from the high alcohol. Drink from 2023. HB Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

87 Château Haura 2018 Graves. From a property belonging to the Dubourdieu family, this

wine is the baby brother of Clos Floridène. Light and fruity with attractive black-currant flavors, the wine still has some dryness but that will go shortly. Drink from 2022. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

87 Château La Rose Sarron 2018 Graves. A fresh wine that has a core of firm, ageworthy tan-

nins, this shows fruitiness before dryness. It should age well and quickly. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

87 Château Mayne du Cros 2018 Graves. This wine is rich and firm, with solid dry tannins.

The wine’s weight indicates fruitiness in its future as the tannins soften. That will take time, so drink from 2023. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $22

87 Château Saint-Robert 2019 Graves. Young and somewhat rustic, this blend of Merlot

and Cabernet Sauvignon has blackberry fruits and a bitter edge of tannins. The future is suggested by fruitiness and acidity at the end. Drink from 2022. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

86 Château de Beau-Site 2018 Graves. This wine is dry, with touches of bitter extrac-

tion that lessen the fruitiness and balance. While it will soften, it seems the wine will remain dry. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Château de Landiras 2018 Graves. Heavy wood aging mars this wine. It confers a

toasty character, aromas of freshly sawn planks and leaves little room for the fruit. The fruit is there, but unlikely to get much of a chance. Master Brands Distribution. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Château Jouvente 2018 La Source de Jou-vente (Graves). Dry and dense, this wine

has firm tannins that suggest heavy extraction. That should dissipate although tannins that dry could well persist. Try the wine from 2022. Amphorium LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Château Pont de Brion 2018 Graves. This wine lacks focus. Attractive black fruits are

a bit lost in the welter of dry tannins and extraction. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21

86 Château Venus 2018 Graves. Shadowed by tannins and with a powerful structure, this

wine may have too much dryness for its own good. It

is hard to discern the fruit under the extraction and wood aging. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

85 Château des Places 2018 Graves. This wine’s dry tannins tend to mask the fruit and give

a firm, extracted character. The wine will soften and open up a space for the fruits, but probably not enough. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $38

85 Marquis De Bern 2018 Graves. This wine shows its alcoholic weight and has an aus-

tere, tannic character. The wine is dry and needs more fruitiness to blossom. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

84 Château de Rieufret 2018 Agapes de Reiu-fret (Graves). The winemaker was overen-

thusiastic with his wood aging in this wine. After two years, the new-wood plank character should have softened and it hasn’t. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

84 Château Jouvente 2018 Graves. A dry, extracted wine, this has bitter tannins that

mask touches of berry fruits. It is hard to see much future for this tough wine. Amphorium LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

POMEROL

94 Château la Cabanne 2018 Pomerol. This wine offers great fruits and sophisticated

wood-aging and spice flavors. The wine has weight, with rich berry flavors sustained by the dry core of tannins. It also has perfumed fruits, hints of mint from the new wood and a good future. Drink this wine from 2025. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

93 Chateau Grange-Neuve 2016 Pomerol. While this wine, mainly Merlot, still has its struc-

ture and dry core, it is just showing richness from the generous black fruits. The wine has power and the potential for opulence. Drink from 2022. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45

92 Chateau Grange-Neuve 2018 Pomerol. This is a rich, juicy and structured wine. Bold

tannins combine with black-currant flavors to give a ripe wine, equally solid with fruit and tannin. It should develop well, bringing out fruit and smooth-ing the texture. Drink from 2024. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45

92 Château Haut-Maillet 2018 Pomerol. Domi-nated by Merlot, this wine is still full of

dense tannins. But the jammy black fruits and gen-erous texture point to a more open future. Succu-

BUYINGGUIDE


lent and juicy, the wine will be ready from 2024. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

92 Clos Beauregard 2018 Pomerol. Big, ripe and packed with opulent Merlot fruit, this wine

is not shy. Its full black fruits and velvet tannins are luscious and will mature relatively quickly. Drink this rich wine from 2023. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $53

LALANDE DE POMEROL

93 Château Altimar 2018 Solemnis (Lalande de Pomerol). The 90% Merlot in this wine

defines its richness and dark power. Wood aging gives spice and a smoky character that will stay in this ripe, full-bodied wine as it ages. It will develop well, the tannins ready to soften and the fruit pow-erful and dense. Drink from 2023. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

92 Château Altimar 2018 Lalande de Pomerol. Dark and rich, this is a strongly structured

wine, with a majority of Cabernet Franc. Big tan-nins go with dark-chocolate flavors to contrast with black-plum fruits and general richness. Drink this ripe, perfumed wine from 2023. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

92 Château Vieux Cardinal Lafaurie 2018 Lal-ande de Pomerol. A bold, smoky and gener-

ous wine, this shows perfumed wood-aging flavors as well as ripe blackberry fruits. Dominated by Mer-lot, but with a good proportion of Cabernet Franc, the wine should age well. Drink from 2022. MHW, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

91 Château Bourseau 2018 Lalande de Pomerol. In this wine, rich berry flavors cover the firm

structure that brings in tannins and wood-aging fla-vors. The black fruits are ripe, spicy and laden with jammy, succulent Merlot. Drink from 2023. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

91 Château Canon Chaigneau 2015 Lalande de Pomerol. The estate lies in the village of Néac.

At five years old, this wine is just beginning to show signs of maturity, with tannins that are smooth-ing out and blackberry fruits and generous Merlot flavors coming forward. Drink the wine from late 2021. Adventures In Wine. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

90 Château Canon Chaigneau 2016 Lalande de Pomerol. This wine has the dry tannins of

the vintage at this stage, which give a dense charac-ter that needs to soften and open out. As the under-lying berry fruits come forward, this wine will begin

to shine. Drink from 2023. Adventures In Wine. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

89 Château Altimar 2017 Solemnis (Lalande de Pomerol). Smoky and tightly textured, this

wine is as tight with tannins as it is full of black fruits. Its firm edges are not likely to soften fully. The aftertaste hints at a more juicy, fruity character. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

89 Château Haut Chatain 2018 Lalande de Pomerol. The power of the Merlot in this

wine is palpable. It is not a shy wine, instead packed with black fruits and solid, rich tannins. The wine has concentration and power, just spoiled by the bite of alcohol at the end. Drink from 2022. Con-noisseur Wines. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $27

89 Château Sergant 2018 Lalande de Pomerol. This Merlot-dominated wine offers solid

black fruits and rich tannins. It suffers a little from the high alcohol and bitter extraction flavors, with hope that these go as the wine ages. Drink from 2023. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

88 Château Altimar 2017 Lalande de Pomerol. The lightness of this vintage is apparent in

the black-currant fruits and dry core of this wine. It is not likely to develop very far, but is attractive to drink now. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

88 Château Canon Chaigneau 2018 Lalande de Pomerol. This smoky, spicy wine is still

young. Wood-aging flavors show more strongly than the perfumed black fruits but that will change. It has a good future, so drink from 2024. Adventures In Wine. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

88 Château Canon Chaigneau 2012 Lalande de Pomerol. Beginning to show its age, this

wine is still attractively balanced. Its maturity is expressed in spiciness that is balanced by a dry edge as well as a vegetal flavor. This wine is totally ready to drink. Adventures In Wine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45

85 Château Canon Chaigneau 2011 Lalande de Pomerol. This wine is definitely old, a curi-

osity. Its tannins are dense and have already left the fruit behind. Like so many wines from this vintage it has moved from tannic youth straight to tannic old age. Adventures In Wine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45

SAINT-ÉMILION

97 Le Dôme 2018 Saint-Émilion. For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.

abv: 14.5% Price: $210

95 Château Vieux Mazerat 2018 Saint-Émilion. This wine comes from a prized vineyard on

the slopes of Saint-Émilion. It is beautifully propor-tioned, rich in tannins and lush with black fruits. More importantly it is well shaped, with the rich-ness and power masked by finesse. Drink this wine from 2026. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $118

95 Les Astéries 2018 Saint-Émilion. This wine displays the textured, tight mineral charac-

ter for which it has become known. It comes from a small parcel on the plateau of Saint-Émilion close to the village. The wine combines powerful tannins and solid black fruits. Drink from 2026. World’s End LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $135

94 Château Yon Figeac 2018 Saint-Émilion. This is one of the many wines associated

with the Figeac sector of Saint-Émilion. It has the unusual addition for the area of Petit Verdot, which darkens the color and enhances tannins. It is a rich, full wine, solid and serious, full of promising tan-nins and black fruits. The wine will age well and over a good many years. Drink from 2025. Advan-tage International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $44

94 Le Carré 2018 Saint-Émilion. A small parcel close to the city of Saint-Émilion produces

this luscious wine. Black fruits mask the serious tannins and solid base of a wine that will certainly age. It is a full, powerful wine that will be ready to drink from 2025. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

93 Château Croix de Labrie 2018 Saint-Émilion. This wine from Pierre and Axelle Cour-

durié’s small Saint-Émilion estate is a powerful reminder of the richness of the vintage. Its solid tannins and concentrated black fruits are impres-sive, dark with a structure that needs to age. The wine will take its time, so don’t drink before 2025. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

93 Château Fleur Cardinale 2018 Saint-Émilion. The Decoster family, formerly producers of

porcelain in Limoges, have given this estate consid-erable luster. This latest release shows a solid char-acter, powered by dark tannins, hints of licorice and rich fruit. Cabernet Franc aromas shine through the jammy Merlot. Drink from 2025. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

93 Château Jean Faure 2018 Saint-Émilion. This Saint-Émilion classed growth shows dense

black fruits, dominated by structured and perfumed Cabernet Franc. The richness is palpable, with blackberry and dark damson-plum flavors giving acidity. Solid tannins come both from the fruit and the wood aging. The wine has a fine journey ahead of it. Drink from 2025. Organic and biodynamic. J.J. Buckley Fine Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

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93 Château Petit Faurie de Soutard 2018 Saint-Émilion. This blend of 80% Merlot and

20% Cabernet Franc brings out the huge richness of the year but tempers it with structure and age-ability. The weight and concentration contrast with fresher black currants that come through at the end. Drink from 2025. Advantage International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $37

93 Vieux Château des Combes 2018 Saint-Émil-ion. An estate once associated with Bene-

dictine monks has produced this dark and concen-trated wine. Big tannins promise a full, rich future that will be freshened by the black-currant fruits. The wine will need time, so wait to drink until 2024. Advantage International. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $34

92 Château Ascumbas 2018 Cuvée Saint Vincent (Saint-Émilion). This richly structured wine

with layers of black tannins and solid berry fruits shows good concentration. Spice from wood aging and perfumes from Cabernet Franc contribute to the wine’s generous completeness. It has plenty of potential, so drink from 2023. Advantage Interna-tional. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

92 Château Cadet-Bon 2018 Saint-Émilion. Big, bold black fruits and rich tannins give struc-

ture to this solid, dense and concentrated wine. It shows maybe a tad too much alcohol, but that will go as this Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend ages. Drink from 2024. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $53

92 Château de l’Annonciation 2018 Saint- Émilion. This ripe wine already has an

attractive balance between structure and black-berry fruits. The smoky, dry character will soften as it ages. The wine will mature well. Drink from 2024. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

92 Château Fleur Cardinale 2018 Intuition de Fleur Cardinale (Saint-Émilion). This second

wine of Fleur Cardinale is ripe and on the fruity side, with fine tannins that are already integrated with the structure of sweet tannins. Dominated by Merlot, it is a fruity, succulent wine that will develop quickly. Drink from 2023. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

92 Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac 2018 Saint-Émilion. Vineyards in the west of

Saint-Émilion have produced this well-structured, balanced wine. Although still young, the rich tan-nins and blackberry flavors have great promise. It shows good equilibrium between fruit and dense structure and needs more time. Drink from 2025. Champagnes & Châteaux USA. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

92 Château la Confession 2018 Saint-Émilion. Dark tannins dominate this richly struc-

tured wine. Mint perfumes from the wood aging are balanced by the concentrated black-plum fruit. This is a big wine, ready to age. Drink from 2024. BNP Distributing. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

91 Château Bardoulet 2016 Saint-Émilion. From a vineyard on the eastern side of Saint-Émil-

ion, this wine offers stylish Merlot that is fresh and well balanced. The supple texture is underpinned by tannins that are now just soft enough. The wine, though, is still fresh and will age further. Drink from 2022. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $26

91 Château Cantin 2018 Saint-Émilion. A struc-tured wine, this comes from a vineyard

around a 17th-century chateau. It has tannins, per-fumes from the Cabernets in the blend and a rich future. Drink this powerful wine from 2024. Advan-tage International. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $43

91 Château Croix de Labrie 2018 Chapelle de Lab-rie (Saint-Émilion). The second wine of Croix

de Labrie, this offers rich black fruits and a smooth texture. Tannins have already softened into the ripe black fruits that are packed with black-plum-skin flavors, with an immediately accessible juicy fruiti-ness. Drink the wine from 2023. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

91 Château Franc Lartigue 2018 Saint-Émilion. Bold and rich, this ripe black-currant-fla-

vored wine come from vineyards on the plain below Saint-Émilion center. With the rich Merlot domi-nant, the wine has density and concentration that will allow it to age. Drink from 2023. Lanterna Dis-tributors Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $49

90 Château Altimar 2018 Puy Versannes (Saint-Émilion). Although it is based in Lalande de

Pomerol, the estate also has vines in Saint-Émilion. This wine with its elegant proportion of Cabernet Franc is structured and ageworthy. It has a poised freshness, with juicy acidity and texture from the dry core. Drink from 2022. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Château Croix Cardinale 2018 Saint-Émilion. This smoothly rich wine comes from an

estate under the same ownership as cru classé Fleur Cardinale. It is spicy, dense with blackberry fruits and swathes of ripeness. This opulent wine will age relatively quickly. Drink from 2023. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

90 Château la Rose Beauséjour 2018 Saint-Émilion. With rich black fruits and jammy

Merlot flavors, this wine is open and powerful. Wood aging and tannins combine to smooth the fruit and bring a core of dryness, which will allow the wine to age. Drink from 2023. Wine Wine Situ-ation LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

90 Château Teyssier 2018 Saint-Émilion. Big and rich, this balanced and accessible wine

is generous both with its black fruits and smooth texture. The density and core of tannins do not detract from the full, fruity character. The wine will develop quickly. Drink from 2023. World’s End LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

88 Château Billeron Bouquey 2018 Saint- Émilion. This 80–20 Merlot and Cabernet

Franc blend has stylish richness. It is juicy, with succulent blackberry flavors that offer relief from the powerful tannins. The wine has weight and structure but is sure to soften. Drink from 2024. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $26

88 Château de l’Annonciation 2017 Saint- Émilion. A dry wine, this is textured while

also having a light touch. Black-currant fruits are beginning to show promise and release their per-fumed character. Drink this balanced wine from 2023. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

88 Château de Monturon 2018 Saint-Émilion. While superripe Merlot dominates this

wine, the finer structure of the Cabernet Franc add shape and firmness. The wine will age well. Drink from 2022. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $26

88 Château Laforge 2018 Saint-Émilion. This wine is superrich, heavy on the alcohol

initially but then showing layers of black fruits, rich tannins and some aging potential. As the wine comes together it is likely to coalesce around the rich black-plum and spice flavors. Drink from 2024. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $35

87 Château Vieux Pourret 2018 Saint-Émilion. This smooth, velvet-textured wine is rich

and advancing well. Tannins and black fruits have been softened by wood aging to give a generous wine that will be attractive from 2023. Advantage Inter-national. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $26

LUSSAC SAINT-ÉMILION

92 Château la Perrière 2018 Lussac Saint-Émilion. A bold, ripe and juicy wine, this

is developing well. Its big tannins and satisfying blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc show potential richness and structure. Blackberry and black-plum flavors are impressive. Drink from 2023. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45

90 Château du Courlat 2016 Lussac Saint-Émil-ion. Black, solid and richly structured, this

wine is all about its dark fruits and dry core. A sug-gestion of too much extraction gives a dry edge to the wine while the rich tannins of the year are still a

BUYINGGUIDE


major factor. It should soften, so it’s best to wait for the rich fruits to come through from 2022. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

89 Château du Courlat 2015 Lussac Saint-Émil-ion. This is a heavily structured and weighty

wine. Powerful dark Merlot flavors are dominated by the dry core that is still developing. Blackberry flavors will come through over the next few months, so this wine will be best from late 2021. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

MONTAGNE-SAINT-ÉMILION

91 Domaine Gonzague Maurice 2015 La Folie (Montagne-Saint-Émilion). This dark, still

dry and firmly structured wine comes from vines surrounding an 18th-century tower (the folly). The rich tannins and black fruits are still developing and moving towards generous richness. This wine has a fine future ahead of it. Drink from 2022. Lanterna Distributors Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

90 Château la Papeterie 2018 Montagne-Saint-Émilion. Almost entirely Merlot, this gen-

erous wine is packed with black-plum fruits. Rich tannins, spice and touches of licorice go with the bold fruits and structure. The wine will be ready from 2023. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

89 Château Guillou 2018 Montagne-Saint- Émilion. Richness in this blend comes from

the 90% of Merlot, which brings rich blackberry-jam flavors laced with acidity. The structure and ripeness suggest the wine will be ready soon. Drink this ripe, attractive wine from late 2021. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

87 Château Faizeau 2018 Sélection Vieilles Vignes (Montagne-Saint-Émilion). This

30-acre estate has produced an immensely rich wine, perhaps too rich. It does suffer from super-ripe, jammy Merlot flavors that swamp the wine. If it all calms down, the wine will be ready from 2023. Wine.com. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $22

PUISSEGUIN SAINT-ÉMILION

92 Château Beauséjour 2015 Old Vines (Puisse-guin Saint-Émilion). A richly perfumed, full-

bodied wine, this has dense tannins and equally dense black fruits. With a firm hold on the struc-ture, the wine will will age well, giving concentra-tion and powerful fruits. Drink now, but the wine will be better from 2022. Wine Wine Situation LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $70

91 Château Beauséjour 2018 Puisseguin Saint-Émilion. A generous, rich and velvet-textured

wine, this is full bodied and opulent. A core of tan-nins gives aging promise, but the blackberry fruits are cushioning and plump, imparting fruitiness. Drink from 2024. Organic. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $36

90 Barons Edmond Benjamin de Rothschild 2016 L’Enclos des Domaines Edmond de

Rothschild (Puisseguin Saint-Émilion). This is a stylish, if also powerful, wine. Layers of black fruits and dark tannins give the wine weight. The 20% Cabernet Franc in the blend brings in its ineffable perfume and structure. Drink the wine from 2023. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $50

90 Domaine Gonzague Maurice 2015 Clos du Pavillon (Puisseguin Saint-Émilion). This

bold, rich wine comes from a six-acre vineyard planted at a high density. Tannins and black-fruit flavors have softened into one other, just hinting at dark chocolate and a dry core. This concentrated, dark wine is ready to drink. Lanterna Distributors Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

CASTILLON CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

92 Château de Belcier 2018 Le Pin de Belcier (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). A perfumed,

wood-aged wine, this has richness and complexity. Warm, ripe tannins show dryness at this stage but are imminently turning into a generous support for the black-plum fruits. This wine has a fine future. Wait to drink until 2023. Vintage Imports (Colo-rado). —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

92 Château Mauperey 2018 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. A blend of Cabernet Franc and

Merlot, this wine has fruitiness, richness and struc-ture. Tannins are cushioned by generous, vibrant black-plum fruits that will bear further aging. Rich and full, the wine will best from 2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12

91 Château Beynat 2018 Cuvée Léonard (Castil-lon Côtes de Bordeaux). Named after Léonard

Nebout who was a founder of this estate, this gener-ous wine was produced from old vines. It offers firm tannins along with swathes of black-currant fruits and richness. Drink from 2023. Organic. G. Montot Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91 Château Bréhat 2018 Castillon Côtes de Bor-deaux. A south-facing vineyard on the slope

above the city of Castillon has yielded this generous, rich and juicy wine. Black fruits are already shin-ing with ripeness, about to burst out through the

tannins. The wine will be ready from 2023. Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

90 Château de Belcier 2018 Cuvée B (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). The high percentage

of Cabernet Franc in this blend gives it an elegant and perfumed character. It contrasts with the more jammy Merlot to give the wine stylish rich-ness. Drink from 2022. Vintage Imports (Colorado). —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

89 Domaine Gonzague Maurice 2017 Cuvée Victor (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). This

producer, with vines also in Saint-Émilion satel-lite villages, has crafted a balanced, ripe and fruity wine. Tannins are happily integrated into the black-currant flavors. The Merlot gives boldness to this generous wine. Drink from 2022. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

GRAVES DE VAYRES

92 Château Cantelaudette 2018 Grand Vin (Graves de Vayres). Aged for 12 months in

wood, this wine is richly dense with solid tannins, dark blackberry flavors and ripe smokiness. The wine is generous and full in the mouth, with a struc-ture that will soften very satisfactorily. Drink from 2023. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

91 Château Cantelaudette 2016 Cuvée Prestige (Graves de Vayres). This wood-aged wine

with its rich, jammy Merlot is now just mature. The black fruits and firm tannins are there but have softened into a comfortable relationship. With the smoky character coming through to add complexity, the wine is now ready to drink. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24

91 Château Cantelaudette 2015 Grand Vin (Graves de Vayres). In this wine, dusty tan-

nins are richly integrated into the mature fruits and acidity. Produced from selected parcels, the wine is concentrated, ripe and generous with black cher-ries and dark spice. Drink the wine now. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

87 Château Cantelaudette 2019 San Soufre Ajouté (Graves de Vayres). With no added

sulfur, this wine has a slight metallic edge along with bright cherry flavors that are fresh and packed with fruitiness. The wine needs a little time to open out fully, so drink from 2022. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

87 Château Cantelaudette 2018 Graves de Vayres. Celebrating the ripe berry fruits

of the vintage, this wine is rich while also having a young structure and acidity, which suggest aging

WINEMAG.COM | 91

potential. The wine is likely to be ready from 2022. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

CÔTES DE BOURG

91 Château de Passedieu 2018 Côtes de Bourg. A powerful and full-bodied wine still with

some signs of wood aging, this is rich with black fruits and seriously structured with tannins. Its spicy character, hints of toast and dry core all point to ageworthiness. Drink this wine from 2023. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $11

90 Château de la Grave 2016 Caractère (Côtes de Bourg). The top wine from this estate,

this is densely textured and rich with dry tannins and juicy black-plum-skin flavors. The wine has weight, concentration and a fine future. Drink from 2023. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

89 Château de la Grave 2018 Côtes de Bourg. Firm and tannic, this wine needs to soften.

Its dense structure is very much in control, although the black fruits are there. It needs time, so drink from 2022. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Château Peychaud 2018 Côtes de Bourg. This long-established vineyard has pro-

duced a wood-aged wine, ripe with red fruits and still structured with a core of dry tannins. With a high percentage of Merlot in the blend, it is suc-culent, full bodied and shows its alcohol. It will be ready to drink from 2022. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $17

87 Château Perthus 2018 Côtes de Bourg. At 98% Merlot, this wine is packed with rich

black fruits and the beginnings of jammy richness. There are still tannins to soften and an oxidative edge to disappear before the wine is ready. Drink from 2022. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $17

CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

90 Château Peybrun 2016 Cuvée Colombe (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Produced

from a three-acre parcel, this wine is richly endowed with layers of Merlot. It has good balance between the blackberry fruits and acidity, with tannins pro-viding ballast for the freshness. Drink now. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

89 Château de Malherbes 2014 Grand Vin (Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Aged in new

wood, this mature wine still shows signs of toasti-ness. That gives it a prominent dry core that tastes as strongly as the wine’s secondary flavors. Expect

the wine to retain this tension. Drink now. JP Bour-geois. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

88 Château de Malherbes 2017 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. This ripe, wood-aged wine is

just ready to drink. It has the lightness of the vin-tage, with blackberry fruits and attractive acidity. Tannins give backbone but are now fully integrated. Drink now or wait until late 2021. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR

90 Château Timberlay 2018 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. From a vineyard in the northern Bor-

deaux region, this ripe, spicy wine is packed with dark fruits and worth aging. Rich tannins march with dark berry flavors to give a dense, full-bodied wine. Age this wine and drink from 2022. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Château Féret-Lambert 2018 Costes du Châ-teau Féret-Lambert (Bordeaux Supérieur).

This is a rich, Merlot-dominated wine, with gen-erous tannins and structure. Youthful juicy black fruits are perfumed, fragrant with acidity and a suc-culent texture. Drink this wine from 2022. Aquita-ine Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

89 Château Ribebon 2018 Tradition (Bordeaux Supérieur). This estate close to Castillon

has produced a tight, spicy and structured wine. Rich tannins are still working through the wine, giv-ing it the density to age. The wine will be at its best from 2022. The Wine Source. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Château de Ribebon 2018 Cabernet Franc (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe and perfumed,

this is an unusual wine, with 80% Cabernet Franc. It comes from the region of Castillon in the east of Bordeaux. Red berries are allied to a smoky charac-ter and spice from wood aging in a rich wine that will age further. Drink from 2022. Serge Doré Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

88 Château Grand Français 2018 Grande Cuvée (Bordeaux Supérieur). This wine comes

from a vineyard to the north of Saint-Émilion. Ripe tannins and attractive black-currant fruits suggest a wine that will develop easily and quickly. An inte-grated structure contrasts with the final freshness. Drink from 2022. Organic. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

88 Château Haut-Liloie 2016 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. This wine shows structure and firm

tannins from the Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. It has concentration as well as brighter blackberry

fruits that are still fresh but ready to drink. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Château Croix Mouton 2019 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. From land originally planted to vines by

the Romans, this wine is smoky, dense and blackly rich. Bold plum fruits and tannins that are on the cusp of softening are the prominent features of this mainly Merlot wine. Drink from 2022. BNP Distrib-uting. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

87 Château de Macard 2018 Tradition (Bordeaux Supérieur). A jammy, ripe and lightly tex-

tured wine, this has delicious smoky black fruits and juicy acidity. Fruit cushions the wine’s smooth structure and acidity. It is ready to drink. The Wine Source. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

87 Kirkland Signature 2018 Bordeaux Supérieur. Produced in the Entre-deux-Mers, this wine

is perfumed and lightly structured, with attractive, ripe wood-aged black-currant flavors. It is fruity but with a texture that gives shape as well as acces-sibility. Drink now. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $8

BORDEAUX

88 Château Bois Pertuis 2018 Bordeaux. This wine reflects the vintage, showing bold

black fruits and high alcohol. It is full bodied, gen-erous to a fault with succulent flavors and a well-integrated texture. Drink now to revel in the exuber-ant fruits, or age until 2022 to get a softer, broader view. Advantage International. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

88 Château Jacquet de la Grave 2019 Bordeaux. With 80% Merlot and equal quantities of

the two Cabernets, this wine is young, spicy and rich with black-currant flavors and tannins. The wine’s structure and smoky character point to aging. Drink from 2022. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Château La Rose Montauran 2018 Bordeaux. This estate in the heart of the Entre-deux-

Mers region has produced a perfumed and fruity wine. Although a little young at the moment, it offers ripe black fruits, acidity and light tannins. This polished wine will be ready from 2022. T. Elenteny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

87 Château de Bordes-Quancard 2018 Bordeaux. A soft, attractively fruity wine, this is fresh

with black currants and plenty of acidity. While it is young and could age, it is best to appreciate it now with the fruitiness right up front. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Château des Hautes Combes 2019 Bordeaux. A bright and fruity wine, this shows a supple

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texture and attractive red fruits. It could be drunk in its youthful vibrancy, but might be better from 2022. Organic. Black Hawk Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

87 Château Haut Boutisse 2019 Bordeaux. Softly textured, fruity and young, this is a generous

blend of a majority Cabernet Franc with Merlot. The wine is all blackberry flavors, with a hint of smoki-ness. Drink from 2022. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

86 Baron la Rose 2018 Bordeaux. An open, lightly spicy and fruity wine, this is fresh

with black currants. The wood aging is just right, giving vanilla to go with the fruitiness. Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

86 Château de Bernardon 2018 Bordeaux. This bright, ripe and soft wine shows the rich-

ness of the vintage. The open texture brings out the red fruits and acidity. It is ready to drink. T. Elen-teny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

86 Château Moulin de la Faye 2018 Bordeaux. This vineyard in the Entre-deux-Mers

region has given a rich and full, black-fruited wine. Ripe tannins are lifted by acidity although the after-taste does leave the pepper and bitterness of high alcohol. Drink from 2022. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

86 Château Tour Chapoux 2019 Bordeaux. Sim-ple, young and fruity, this has ripe black

fruits shot through with crisp acidity and supported by light tannins. With 60% Merlot, its future as a ripe, jammy wine is assured. Drink from late 2021. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

85 Château Camarsan 2019 Bordeaux. This young wine has fresh black-plum and berry

fruits and gentle tannins, The three main Bordeaux grapes make a comfortable blend that will soften and broaden over the next months. Drink from 2022. Black Hawk Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Château Vieux Manoir 2019 Bordeaux. This estate in the Entre-deux-Mers about 30

miles from Bordeaux has produced a wine that has attractive black-currant fruits, fresh acidity and a medium-term potential. Young now, it will be ready to drink from 2023. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

84 Château la Commanderie de Combeau 2018 Bordeaux. This lightly fruity wine has per-

fumed berry flavors and a light touch of tannin. The wine is juicy, fresh and ready to drink. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

OTHER RED WINES

92 Château Grand-Puy Ducasse 2018 Prélude à Grand-Puy Ducasse (Pauillac). Produced

from the youngest vines at this classed growth estate, this wine has good balance between per-fumed wood aging and buoyant black fruits. The tannins and dense structure promise aging although the wine is likely to develop relatively quickly as befits a second wine. Drink from 2024. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

91 Château Haut Baillou 2018 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Pure Merlot, this wine is luscious

and rich. It still has tannins but these give the ripe plum fruits concentration and potential succulence. Wood aged, the wine needs time to develop its full potential. Drink from 2022. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

90 Château Belugue 2018 Fronsac. Almost entirely Merlot, this smooth, ripely tex-

tured wine has generous black fruits that show well against the background of firm tannins and solid wood-aging flavors. The wine will be ready from 2025. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

90 Château Cap d’Or 2018 Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion. From a village north of Saint-Émil-

ion, this chocolate- and black-fruit flavored wine is young, dense and firm with tannins. A succulent edge promises well for the future of this powerful blend with its 86% Merlot. Drink from 2023. Z Wine Gallery Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

90 Château Peyredoulle 2018 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. This estate that dates to the 16th

century is producing some attractive, ripe wines, such as this one. Rich black fruits and minerality point towards a textured, ripe wine that will age. Drink this generous wine from 2022. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

SOUTHWEST FRANCEWHITE WINESBERGERAC SEC

93 Château Tour des Gendres 2019 Conti-ne Périgourdine (Bergerac Sec). The estate is

in a region known as Périgord and this wine’s name comes from a local folk song featured on the label. Perfumed, concentrated Muscadelle gives the wine a rare richness as well as fresh intensity. It will be ready to drink from late 2021. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

92 Château Tour des Gendres 2019 Moulin des Dames Parcelle A296 (Bergerac Sec). This

wine comes from a parcel of mainly old Sauvignon

Blanc. That gives the wine concentration while pre-serving tangy, citrus Sauvignon flavors balanced by touches of spice. The wine is ripe, full in the mouth and likely to be better in late 2021. Organic. Mar-tine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $41

91 Château Tour des Gendres 2019 Cuvée des Conti (Bergerac Sec). The addition of Mus-

cadelle to this rich blend of Sémillon and Sauvi-gnon Blanc gives a ripe wine, with tropical fruits to complement the kiwi and lime flavors. The wine is young, but already very drinkable. Organic. Mar-tine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $21

84 Le Clos du Breil 2020 Bergerac Sec. This fresh, crisp Sauvignon Blanc, with just a

touch of Sémillon, is lively, with citrus and kiwi fla-vors. Tangy with a streak of lemon zest, it is refresh-ingly ready to drink. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

SAINT MONT

92 Plaimont 2018 Le Faîte Blanc (Saint Mont). Gros Manseng, Arrufiac and Petit Courbu

come together in this dry blend. The rich, honeyed character also emphasizes the acidity and the pear and kiwi fruits, shot through with spice and pepper from wood aging. Drink this wine from 2022. Brick-ell Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Plaimont 2010 Le Faîte Blanc (Saint Mont). The result of a tasting by two wine profes-

sionals, this is a rich blend, now mature, of Gros Manseng, Arrufiac and Petit Courbu. It shows the wide variety and longevity of local grapes in the Gascony region. Offering spice, lemon and a mature perfumed character, this enticing wine is ready to drink. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Plaimont 2009 Château Saint-Go (Saint Mont). The gold color shows that this is a

mature wine and one that conveys the aging power of the Gros Manseng grape. Keeping a strong citrus character along with tight acidity, it also brings in more tropical flavors and ripe spiciness. This is a lesson in longevity. Drink the wine now. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

JURANÇON SEC

93 Lapeyre 2015 Mantoulan (Jurançon Sec). With the honeyed freshness of Petit Man-

seng, this dry wine has ripeness, apricot and crisp lemon fruits and a texture that pushes the wine for-ward into a rich future. Full in the mouth, the wine will likely be ready from 2022. Organic. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

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92 Lapeyre 2016 Vitatge Vielh (Jurançon Sec). From vines dating back to the 1940s, this

wine is rich in its intensity and concentration. Powerful and ripe green fruit and citrus flavors are lightly touched with honey, typical of the two Manseng grapes. It is now ready to drink. Organic. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $26

89 Lapeyre 2019 Lapeyre Sec (Jurançon Sec). Rich, dense and textured, this wine has

both freshness and a taut, mineral character. The zesty texture is just right, ready to drink with ripe apple-skin and citrus-zest flavors. Organic. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

OTHER WHITE WINES

89 Domaine Borie-Vieille 2019 Confidences Prunelard (Côtes du Tarn). Prunelard was

largely forgotten in Gaillac before the efforts of a few growers brought it back to the vineyards and into wines such as this. It has given a rich, luscious wine, generous to a fault, and with the tannins and acidity to allow it to age. Ripe black fruits are right up front at the moment but will soften. Drink from 2022. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $14

89 Famille Laplace 2018 Odé d’Aydie (Pacher-enc du Vic Bilh). The two Manseng grapes

come together in this rich wine that is full of white fruits, with riper hints of pineapple. The wine is still young and full of fruitiness, with concentrated acidity that needs to soften. Drink the wine from 2022. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

88 Domaine Rotier 2019 Les Gravels Blanc (Gaillac). The local Loin de l’Oeil grape (the

name means far from the eye, because it’s difficult to spot the bunches) makes up 85% of this wine, giving it lemon and kiwi fruit flavors. These gain richness from touches of spice and creamed pear. Drink this perfumed, still-young wine from late 2021. Organic. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

86 Domaine la Taste 2019 Harmonie de la Taste (Côtes de Gascogne). A typical Gascon blend

of Colombard and Ugni Blanc is perfumed with Gros Manseng. The result is this brightly textured, crisp wine that has a tangy citrus character along with friendly white fruits. Drink this wine now. T. Elen-teny Imports. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

JURANÇON

94 Lapeyre 2017 La Magendia de Lapeyre (Jurançon). Petit Manseng works its mar-

vels in this late-harvest wine. While it has great freshness, it also has ripe apricot, honey and zesty

flavors that are still young and vibrant. This wine will age for many years and will be at its mellifluous best from 2023. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $42

93 Lapeyre 2016 Balaguéra (Jurançon). Pro-duced from late-harvest fruit, this wine is

intense with the sweetness and superb acidity that mark a fine Jurançon. Orange freshness and zest are touched by honey, with a good balance that allows the wine to age further. Drink at its best in 2022. Organic. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $60

88 Lapeyre 2019 Lapeyre Moelleux (Jurançon). Young and poised between sweetness and

dryness, this wine has the good acidity that comes from the two Manseng grapes. Orange zest and fruitiness give freshness, with a rich undercurrent from the late-harvest fruit. Drink the wine now. Organic. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

OTHER SWEET WINES

93 Château Suau 2018 Barsac. While already well balanced, this wine is still very young.

Its poise between apricot and honey flavors and the dry core of botrytis is starting to develop. There is liquorous richness to this wine, along with essential touches of freshness. Drink the wine from 2024. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29/500 ml

92 Domaine Rotier 2016 Renaissance Vendan-ges Tardives (Gaillac). This late-harvest

wine is ripe, and liquorous, with a smooth, luscious texture. The rich Loin de l’Oeil grapes give honey, apricots and orange-marmalade flavors. Drink this wine now. Organic. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $44

SOUTHWEST FRANCERED WINES

CÔTES DE BERGERAC

92 Château Tour des Gendres 2018 Les Anciens Francs Parcelle No A252 (Côtes de Bergerac).

This rich, perfumed and smoky wine comes from a parcel of old Cabernet Franc. It is very young, expressing black-currant fruits and consider-able acidity, both of which will soften as the wine matures. The structure is just right and the wine will be impressive. Drink from 2023. Organic. Mar-tine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Château Tour des Gendres 2018 La Gloire de Mon Père (Côtes de Bergerac). This is a

powerful wine, rich in tannins as well as black-berry fruits. With a good proportion of Malbec in the blend, the wine is dark in color and in tannin intensity. It needs plenty of aging and should not

be drunk before 2023. Organic. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

91 Le Clos du Breil 2018 Lei Peires (Côtes de Bergerac). Aged for over a year in new wood,

this wine has a spicy, toasty character. But that plays a supporting role to the rich black-currant fruits and serious tannins from the 90% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. The wine is ready to age further. Drink from 2023. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $21

89 Château Tour des Gendres 2019 Cuvée des Conti (Côtes de Bergerac). A soft and fruity

blend of Merlot and Malbec, this wine is lightly tex-tured, with red-berry fruits and vibrant acidity. The wine is still young, packed with fruitiness that can be enjoyed now, although it will be even better from 2022. Organic. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21

89 Le Clos du Breil 2018 Expression (Côtes de Bergerac). Dominated by structured, per-

fumed Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is juicy with acidity and rich with wood-aged black fruits and generous tannins. The wine is for aging and will be ready to drink from 2022. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

CAHORS

94 Château de Chambert 2015 Grand Vin (Cahors). A selection of the best parcels

of this estate, this is a perfumed, wood-aged wine. Rich in mature tannins while the texture remains dense and concentrated, the wine has great heft and structure. Now just mature, it still offers impressive life and fruit. Drink now or wait until at least 2022. Organic and biodynamic. MS Walker. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $75

94 Château du Cèdre 2018 Le Cèdre Extra Libre (Cahors). The top wine of this estate, this

was bottled without added sulfur and is developing well. It has great richness as well as density. Black-berry fruitiness shines through dry core, promis-ing an exciting future. The wine will be ready from 2024. Organic. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $73

93 Château de Chambert 2016 Cahors. Pro-duced from old vines, this wine is just mov-

ing towards maturity. Perfumed from wood aging, rich in structure that is softening into the black-berry fruits, the wine is impressively shaped with its tannins and vibrant aftertaste. Drink from 2022. Organic and biodynamic. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

93 Château Haut-Monplaisir 2018 Prestige (Cahors). This elegant wine with ripe, per-

fumed tannins and rich structure is produced by Cathy and Daniel Fournié. The texture, smooth

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wood-aging character and generous black-plum-skin flavors all promise plenty of aging. Drink this wine from 2024. Organic. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

93 Clos Troteligotte 2017 K-2 (Cahors). Aging in amphoras has expanded the richness and

ripe fruits of this wine. It has also given it structure and density, which will allow it to age well. This bal-anced, ripe wine is shot through with acidity. Drink from 2022. Organic. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $57

93 Jean-Luc Baldès 2015 Clos Triguedina Probus (Cahors). Even after five years, some dry

tannins sustain the black Malbec fruits. But the balance is there with rich damson and black-plum flavors, showing structure with fruit. It is just ready to drink. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $72

92 Château de Chambert 2015 Cahors. This ripe, full-bodied wine has now reached maturity.

Tannins still show the density of a 100% Malbec wine, but everything is soft and juicy enough to be delicious, rich and ready to drink. Organic and bio-dynamic. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

92 Château du Cèdre 2018 Cahors. This estate has produced a powerful wine that com-

bines richness and a dense structure. The wine has weight, balance and potential. It needs to age, so wait to drink until 2023. Organic. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

92 Château Lamartine 2018 Cuvée Particulière (Cahors). This is a ripe, polished wine.

Wood aging brings a perfumed character to the bold black fruits from old vines. The wine has heft and richness while keeping a succulent character. This estate is situated in the west of the Cahors appel-lation on the north bank of the Lot river. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

92 Domaine Capelanel 2015 Cuvée Titouan (Cahors). Aged entirely in clay amphora,

this wine has tannic texture that gives it a dry core. Rich, generous black fruits pulse with vibrancy and minerality from the clay and ironstone soil. Drink this wine now, but it could well age further. H Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

92 Jean-Luc Baldès 2017 Clos Triguedina Probus (Cahors). Named after the Roman emperor

who allowed vines to be planted in Cahors, this ripe wine is perfumed with wood spice. Black fruits are still firmly controlled by tannins, suggesting further aging. Drink this wine from 2022. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $72

91 Château Nozières 2016 L’Elegance (Cahors). From a single vineyard of 50-year-old Mal-

bec, this wine has the potential to be rich and opu-lent as it ages. Big tannins and black-fruit flavors make for a powerful, smoothly textured wine. Drink from 2023. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $30

91 Clos d’Audhuy 2018 Cahors. This rich, wood-aged wine is dense with tannins and powerful

black fruits, both of which are still very young. The structure and concentration promise a full, concen-trated future. Drink from 2024. Ripe Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

91 Clos Troteligotte 2014 K-Lys (Cahors). Aged for 24 months in large barrels, this is now a

smoothly textured wine. Its maturity is just right, still with plenty of black fruits as well as developing secondary flavors. This ripe, balanced wine is ready to drink. Organic. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $40

91 Domaine Capelanel 2014 Amphût (Cahors). Partially aged in amphora, this wine comes

from an unusual clay and ironstone vineyard, giv-ing structure and mineral texture to the plummy character. With tannins now fully cushioned by the mature black fruits, the wine has great density and is ready to drink. H Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $36

91 Jean-Luc Baldès 2018 Clos Triguedina (Cahors). This estate wine shows the struc-

ture as well as richness that comes from the Trigue-dina vineyard. Tannins are richly balanced by the dark fruits, while licorice gives an edge of bitterness that will soften. Drink from 2022. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

90 Château Lamartine 2018 Cahors. With 30% wood aging, this wine has both richness

and structure. It has a tight, black plum and tan-nin character, with layers of wood and spice coming through the dense fruitiness. The wine has a future. Drink from 2023. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Château Nozières 2018 Ambroise de l’Her (Cahors). Named after an ancestor of the

present owners, this wine has powerful, dark tan-nins. Licorice and dark-chocolate flavors give a dry edge, while tannins form a firm background to the black-plum-skin flavors. Drink this full-bodied wine from 2023. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $20

88 Château de Chambert 2019 La Tour Cham-bert Cuvée des Hauts Coteaux (Cahors). This

bottling is a ripe and fruity wine that has soft tan-nins and plenty of fresh black-damson-plum flavors. The structure is fully integrated already, promising early drinking. Drink from late 2021. Organic and biodynamic. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Château du Cèdre 2019 Extra Libre (Cahors). Bottled without added sulfur, this wine has

a firm, dry structure. It suffers from a metallic edge that perhaps just reflects its youth. The wine needs more time to soften, so wait to drink until 2023. Organic. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $34

88 Château Lamartine 2018 Prestige du Malbec (Cahors). Aged only in tank, this wine cel-

ebrates its rich fruitiness. The solid tannins of the Malbec come through strongly and ripely, bringing with them powerful dark fruits, acidity, spice and concentration. The wine needs time, so drink from 2023. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Château Nozières 2018 Cahors. Ripe and dense with opulence as well as big tannins,

this classic Cahors is deliciously rich. It has 85% Malbec with a touch of Merlot that has softened the structure and brought out the fruit. Drink from late 2021. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $15

88 Clos Troteligotte 2019 K-Or (Cahors). Aged in tanks, this pure Malbec wine shows

structured fruits, crisp acidity and a dry core. Fruit-iness is the key to its immediate attractiveness, but it will take a short while more to be ready. Wait until late 2021. Organic. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Domaine Capelanel 2014 Cuvée Pech Petit (Cahors). Aging in old barrels has pol-

ished the mature black fruits of this wine. While the wine’s age gives it a leathery texture, ripe black fruits still come through. The wine is ready to drink. H Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29

87 Château du Cèdre 2019 Juveniles (Cahors). Produced from young vines, this is a softly

textured, succulent and fruity wine. It is all black-berry flavors, ripe tannins and attractive acidity. This wine is ready to drink. Organic. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

87 Clos d’Audhuy 2019 Le Pommier Gourmand (Cahors). This full, ripe and fruity wine

brings out vibrant black fruits and soft tannins. The wine has been made to drink young and fresh, with generous textures and an open aftertaste. Drink from late 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $13

87 Domaine Capelanel 2019 Cuvée Petitou (Cahors). This wine is about rich blackberry

flavors, lots of spice and a few tannins. It has been made in an approachable style, ready to drink young so as to enjoy the fruity side of Malbec. Drink now. H Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Domaine Capelanel 2016 La Rangée du Curé (Cahors). Now mature, this gently textured

WINEMAG.COM | 95

wine is soft but has plenty of vibrant, juicy fruits. Freshness and acidity shine through the texture, producing balance and a wine that is ready to drink. H Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

86 Clos d’Audhuy 2019 Les Polissons (Cahors). This wine is soft and fruity, with only the

lightest tannic touch. It is juicy, fresh with red fruits and good acidity. Drink from late 2021. Ripe Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

GAILLAC

91 Domaine Rotier 2018 Les Gravels Rouge (Gail-lac). Five grapes go into this blend, including

local varieties Braucol and Prunelard. The result-ing wine is well structured, smoothly textured and welcoming. Red fruits and a core of tannins balance each other to give a wine that will be ready from late 2021. Organic. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

88 Château Bal Ségur 2018 Tradition (Gaillac). Jérome Bezios makes this attractive blend

of Syrah, Braucol and Duras that is full of fresh fruit, with a touch of pepper and light tannins. Berry flavors and good acidity come together in a wine that is ready to drink. Wine Circle Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $9

86 Château Bal Ségur 2017 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (Gaillac). Produced from old vines,

this wine suffers from too much wood aging. While some of that toasty character will go, it masks the blend of Syrah and Braucol that clamors to get out. Drink from 2022. Wine Circle Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12

SAINT MONT

93 Plaimont 2008 Château de la Roque (Saint Mont). From an estate managed by the

Plaimont cooperative, this wine is mature while still having considerable life and freshness. It shows the aging ability of Tannat, which dominates the blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinenc. The wine is ready to drink. Brickell Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

92 Plaimont 2017 Château de Sabazan (Saint Mont). The vineyard surrounding this medi-

eval fortress is managed by the Plaimont coopera-tive. This vintage is a rich blend, with 90% Tan-nat just releasing its tannins and breathing out its powerful damson fruits. The wine has great acidity along with dense fruitiness and texture, and could age further. Drink from 2022. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Plaimont 1999 Château de Sabazan (Saint Mont). This is a remarkable wine, both for

its age and its completeness. Everything is still there, with the mature fruit still showing life and freshness alongside the secondary flavors and dusty tannins. The single-estate wine, with 91% Tan-nat in the blend, is, of course, very ready to drink. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $70

91 Plaimont 2017 Le Faîte (Saint Mont). The blend for this wine is decided each year

by two professional tasters. This release brings together Tannat, Pinenc and Cabernet Sauvignon in a generous wood-aged wine that is still young. Firm tannins and rich damson-plum fruits are powerful, demanding time. Drink from 2023. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $50

90 Plaimont 2008 Château Saint-Go (Saint Mont). This wine is showing age while

retaining complexity and richness. Dusty tannins are integrated into the mature texture, with juicy acidity still giving balance. The wine has richness, density from the Tannat’s tannins and is ready to enjoy a great moment with rich meat dishes. Drink now. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

MADIRAN

93 Château Peyros 2017 Vieilles Vignes (Madi-ran). This rich, wood-aged wine comes

from 40- to 50-year-old vines on an estate at the southern limit of the Madiran appellation. It brings together dense tannins and old-vine concentration. The acidity, black-plum flavors and tannins will keep this wine developing for many years. Drink from 2023. Baron Francois Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

93 Famille Laplace 2017 Odé d’Aydie (Madiran). The practice of micro-bullage (adding oxy-

gen during fermentation to soften the tannins of Tannat)was created at this estate. This ripe, gener-ously structured wine does have tannins but these are already integrated into the generous black fruits and acidity. Perfumed and ripe, the wine will be ready from 2023. The Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

91 Château Peyros 2017 Tannat-Cabernet (Madiran). With 60% Tannat in the blend

with Cabernet Franc, this wine is inevitably rich and structured. Under the still-young tannins and black-fruit flavors, the wine is balanced, with fresh acidity and juicy black-currant flavors. The wine should age further, and will be best drunk from 2023. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

OTHER RED WINES

90 Château Tour des Gendres 2019 La Vigne d’Albert (Bergerac). A blend that includes

the rare local Abouriou, this wine is made to drink young and fruity. It’s a great success, packed with red-berry flavors and soft tannins freshened by tight acidity. Named after the grandfather of the present generation of the Conti family, the wine is juicy and ready to drink. Organic. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

90 Le Clos du Breil 2018 L’Odyssée (Bergerac). Aged in egg-shaped tanks, this wine is

based on Cabernet Franc, which gives it a smoky character as well as minerality from the flint soil. The wine has potential and needs aging to enhance the red fruits and acidity. Drink from 2022. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $11

88 Vignerons de Buzet 2018 La Tuque de Gueyze (Buzet). From the small region between

Bordeaux and Toulouse, this is a classic Bordeaux-style blend with 50% Merlot. The wine is bright and lightly structured, with fresh acidity contrast-ing with the black-currant fruits. Drink the wine from late 2021. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

85 Domaine la Taste 2019 Harmonie de la Taste (Côtes de Gascogne). This stalky, young

blend of Merlot and Tannat is full of red fruits, with bright acidity and a texture that emphasizes freshness. Drink the wine now. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

NORTHERN ITALYSPARKLING WINES

ALTA LANGA

93 Banfi 2010 Cuvée Aurora Pas Dosé 100 Mesi Riserva (Alta Langa). Aromas of mature

white stone fruit, citrus and bread crust carry over to the focused, elegantly structured palate along with notes of honey and almond. Bright acidity gives it a crisp finish while an extremely refined per-lage of tiny, continuous bubbles lends finesse. Banfi Vintners. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $140/1.5 L

93 Enrico Serafino 2016 Oudeis Brut Rosé (Alta Langa). Aromas of red woodland berry, pas-

try cream and wild herb form the enticing nose. On the elegant palate, bright acidity and a silky perlage accompany pomegranate, orange zest and star anise. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

93 Gancia 2013 Cuvée 36 Mesi Brut (Alta Langa). A blend of 80% Pinot Nero and

BUYINGGUIDE


20% Chardonnay, this radiant sparkler offers entic-ing aromas of ripe white stone fruit, brioche and yellow spring flower. The palate boasts freshness and depth, delivering pomegranate, bread crust, white peach and hazelnut. Crisp acidity brightens the rich flavors while an elegant, persistent perlage lends finesse. Roust. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $25

93 Gancia 2011 Cuvée 60 Mesi Riserva Brut (Alta Langa). For full review see page 8.


93 Giribaldi 2015 Matteo Giribaldi Pas Dosé (Alta Langa). Radiant and loaded with

finesse, this has aromas of ripe white stone fruit, brioche and lemon zest. The aromas carry on to the racy, bone-dry palate along with mineral notes sug-gesting saline and briny oyster shell. A lively, ele-gant perlage and crisp acidity provide the energized setting. CTS Distributing. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $31

92 Enrico Serafino 2014 Pas Dosé Zero Riserva (Alta Langa). Made entirely with Pinot

Nero, this racy sparkler offers enticing aromas of white spring flower, brioche, crushed botanical herb and white stone fruit. The dry, focused palate offers yellow apple, bread crust and citrusy notes along-side an elegant perlage and crisp acidity. It closes on a saline note. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $55

92 Enrico Serafino 2007 Pas Dosé Riserva Zero 140 (Alta Langa). Delicate aromas of mature

white stone fruit, bread crust and toasted nut make their way to the forefront. Made with 85% Pinot Nero and 15% Chardonnay, the elegant, structured palate offers acacia honey, chamomile, dried yellow-apple slices and bitter almond alongside a refined perlage. Firm acidity lifts the rich flavors. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $122

92 Gancia 2015 Cuvée 36 Mesi Rosé (Alta Langa). Made entirely with Pinot Nero, this vibrant,

focused sparkler has enticing aromas of red berry, violet and botanical herb. Dry and tangy, the savory palate offers juicy strawberry, pomegranate and baking spice alongside bright acidity. An elegant perlage lends finesse. Roust. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $25

91 Bel Colle 2016 Cuvée Valentina Nature (Alta Langa). Hawthorn, brioche and white stone

fruit aromas carry over to the palate along with yel-low apple and citrus zest. Saline mineral notes back up the crisp finish while a polished perlage lends elegance. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $75

91 Tosti 2016 Rachele Rosé Brut (Alta Langa). Made entirely with Pinot Nero, this has

delicate aromas of rose, rhubarb, red berry and wet stone. Reflecting the nose, the dry, linear palate features pomegranate, smoky graphite and a hint

of bread crust framed in racy acidity and a lively perlage. MHB Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $60

89 Tosti 2016 Giulio I Brut (Alta Langa). Aromas of bread crust, toasted walnut and orange

rind carry over to the linear palate along with yellow- apple skin. Racy acidity and a lively perlage provide backup. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

89 Tosti 2012 Giulio I Brut Extra Brut Riserva (Alta Langa). Subtle aromas of flint, brioche

and white stone fruit form the delicate nose. The aromas carry over to the dry palate along with notes of hazelnut and espresso set against a persistent perlage. MHW, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

LAMBRUSCO

92 Villa di Corlo NV Metodo Classico Elettra Brut Rosé (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Aromas

of just-pressed grapes, white rose and orange rind form the nose. On the elegantly foaming, tangy palate, crisp acidity lifts juicy strawberry, tart red cherry and hints of baking spice. Ethica Wines. E ditors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $22

89 Villa di Corlo 2019 Corleto (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Deeply colored,

dry and lightly fizzy, this has aromas of blue flower and blackberry jam. On the foaming, savory palate, zesty acidity and light tannins accompany ripe black cherry and a hint of white pepper. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $20

86 Cantina Settecani di Castelvetro NV Vini del Re (Lambrusco di Modena). Vinous aromas

of just pressed grapes and a whiff of violet form the nose. The aromas follow over to the simple, lightly sparkling palate along with juicy raspberry, black cherry and crisp acidity. Mitchell Wine Group. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $14

LESSINI DURELLO

94 Dal Maso 2016 Pas Dosé Riserva Metodo Classico (Lessini Durello). For full review see


94 Fattori 2013 Roncà Non Dosato Riserva ( Lessini Durello). Crisp but also boasting

complexity, this energized, precise sparkler has aromas of mature white stone fruit, pressed chamo-mile flower, dried botanical herb and aniseed. The dry, racy palate features ripe yellow apple, Meyer lemon, saline mineral notes and yeasty hints of bri-oche alongside vibrant acidity. A refined, persistent

perlage further fuels the energy and finesse. Zerbina Imports. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $45

94 Fongaro 2014 Pas Dosé Bio (Lessini Durello). Citrusy and mineral-driven, this pristine,

racy sparkler features aromas of yellow spring flower, white stone fruit and a dollop of honeyed almond. On the dry, energized palate, an elegant, persistent perlage and crisp acidity accompany Golden Delicious apple and Meyer lemon while a mineral vein of saline lends depth to the close. Great focus and finesse. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $32

94 Franchetto 2013 Metodo Classico Dosaggio Zero Riserva (Lessini Durello). Racy and

focused, this radiant sparkler has enticing aromas of citrus, hazelnut, sage and a whiff of underbrush. The bone-dry, delicious palate has knife-like pre-cision and depth, delivering yellow apple, Meyer lemon, slate mineral notes and hints of white pep-per alongside crisp acidity. An extremely refined perlage lends finesse. J. Strecker Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

94 Sandro de Bruno 2015 Extra Brut 36 (Les-sini Durello). Tantalizing aromas of white

stone fruit, wet rock and baking spice take shape on this vibrant sparkler. Dry and delicious, the racy, focused palate delivers ripe Bartlett pear, unsweet-ened lemon drop and mineral notes recalling graph-ite and saline. It boasts great energy, structure and elegance as well as a crisp, pristine close. Vignaioli Selection. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

93 Corte Moschina 2015 Extra Brut (Lessini Durello). Dry and focused, this elegant,

vibrant sparkler has delicate scents of white spring flower, yellow pear and a whiff of wet stone. It’s dry, crisp and savory, delivering ripe yellow apple, lemon zest and tangy saline before closing on a hazelnut note. A refined perlage and vibrant acid-ity keep it energized and polished. FJN Fine Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

93 Corte Moschina 2013 Dosaggio Zero Riserva (Lessini Durello). Aromas of mature white

stone fruit, acacia honey and balsamic notes form the nose on this lovely sparkler. On the dry, radiant palate, honeyed mineral notes underscore mature yellow apple, lychee and hazelnut before a mineral-driven close. Crisp acidity and a refined, persistent perlage provide the framework. FJN Fine Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $55

93 Fongaro 2014 Brut Riserva (Lessini Durello). Made with organically grown grapes, this

radiant sparkler has aromas of yellow spring flower, ripe yellow apple, citrus zest and hazelnut. On the focused, dry palate, racy acidity energizes yellow pear, Meyer lemon and flinty mineral while a refined perlage lends finesse. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

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93 Franchetto 2015 Brut Riserva (Lessini Durello). Aromas of white spring flower,

citrus and wet stone waft out of the glass. On the racy, almost vertical palate, crisp acidity accompa-nies Meyer lemon, orange zest and Golden Delicious apple while an extremely refined, persistent perlage lends finesse. J. Strecker Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

93 Sandro de Bruno 2010 60 Mesi Extra Brut ( Lessini Durello). Heady aromas of yellow

spring flower, ripe white stone fruit, botanical herb and honey shape the nose. The aromas follow over to the dry, silky palate along with mature yellow apple, hazelnut and a sprinkling of baking spice before a slate finish. Crisp acidity and a light per-lage accompany the rich flavors. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

93 Sandro de Bruno 2010 Extra Brut 100 Mesi ( Lessini Durello). Made from high-altitude

vineyards situated 1,640 feet above sea level, this dazzling sparkler opens with aromas suggesting white spring flower, botanical herb, citrus and flint. Boasting freshness and depth, the dry, vibrant pal-ate features ripe yellow apple, crushed mint, grape-fruit, lemon drop and underpinnings of mineral. Crisp acidity keeps it racy while a refined perlage lends finesse. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $38

92 Ca’ Rugate 2015 Amedeo Pas Dosé Riserva (Lessini Durello). Racy and bone-dry, this

has aromas suggesting underbrush, white stone fruit and a whiff of fresh bread dough. On the crisp, pre-cise palate, firm acidity accompanies yellow apple, Meyer lemon and saline mineral notes while a refined, lively perlage lends finesse. This is for lovers of razor-sharp precision and energy. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $30

92 Fattori 2013 Ronca Brut 60 Mesi (Lessini Durello). White spring flower, ripe white

stone fruit, honey and balsamic aromas form the expressive nose. Mirroring the nose, the dry, ele-gant palate offers acacia honey, ripe yellow pear and a note of lemon drop alongside a refined per-lage. Crisp acidity brightens the rich flavors while the barest hint of slate lingers on the close. Zerbina Imports. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $45

92 Fongaro 2012 Brut Riserva (Lessini Durello). Aromas of white spring flower, baking spice,

botanical herb and mature white stone fruit form the nose on this smooth sparkler. On the vibrant, savory palate, crisp acidity lifts ripe white peach, lemon drop and sage before a saline finish. A silky perlage lends finesse. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $37

92 Tonello 2015 Io Aura Brut Nature Pas Dosé ( Lessini Durello). This racy, focused spar-

kler has delicate aromas of hawthorn and citrus. The savory, bone-dry palate features Meyer lemon,

yellow pear, botanical herb and saline mineral notes alongside crisp acidity and an elegant perlage. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $NA

91 Franchetto 2018 Borgoletto Brut (Lessini Durello). Crisp and dry, this racy sparkler

has delicate aromas recalling hawthorn, citrus and a whiff of wet flint. Young and savory, the vibrant pal-ate is pristine, featuring Meyer lemon, grapefruit and tangy saline alongside a refined perlage. J. Strecker Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Casa Cecchin 2016 Nostrum Extra Brut Riserva (Lessini Durello). Aromas of toasted

hazelnut, underbrush and yellow spring flower form the nose. The dry, vibrant palate offers mature yel-low apple, lemon rind and yeasty notes of bread dough alongside a lively perlage and racy acidity. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Tonello 2016 Io Teti Brut (Lessini Durello). This vibrant sparkler has aromas of lychee,

citrus and botanical herb. On the palate, a refined, persistent perlage accompanies lemon drop, white peach, aniseed and a hint of smoky flint set against crisp acidity. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $NA

89 Casa Cecchin 2014 Dosaggio Zero Riserva (L essini Durello). Toasted hazelnut, under-

brush and brioche aromas form the nose. On the dry, racy palate, crisp acidity accompanies yellow-apple skin, lemon rind, walnut and a hint of saline alongside a lively perlage. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Cantina di Soave NV Settecento33 Brut ( Lessini Durello). Aromas of white spring

flower mingle with citrus on this lively sparkler. The aromas carry over to the racy palate along with saline notes and a vibrant perlage. Freixenet Mio-netto USA. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $NA

88 Cantina di Soave NV Settecento33 Brut Riserva (Lessini Durello). Scents of white

spring fl ower, brioche and white stone fruit lead the way. On the bright, straightforward palate, lively, small bubbles accompany ripe white peach and can-died notes suggesting lemon drop. Freixenet Mio-netto USA. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Gianni Tessari 2013 60 Mesi (Lessini Durello). Aromas of citrus, medicinal herb

and saline lead the nose on this lively sparkler. On the palate, vigorous bubbles and crisp acid-ity accompany Meyer lemon, honey, hazelnut, and thyme. Rapp Wine Selections. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $NA

86 Cantina di Monteforte 2012 Brut Riserva ( Lessini Durello). Aromas of underbrush

and toasted nut form the nose along with a whiff of

chamomile. The rather assertive palate offers cof-fee-bean and honeyed notes alongside brisk acidity and vigorous bubbles. Illyrian Imports. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Cavazza NV Brut (Lessini Durello). Fun and foaming, this simple sparkler has aromas

and flavors of tart green apple, candied lemon drop and a hint of pastry. Crisp acidity and a soft mousse provide the backdrop. FX Magner Selection. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

86 Del Maso NV Lessini Durello. Aromas of white spring flower, chestnut honey and

white stone fruit form the subtle nose. On the foam-ing, straightforward palate, tangy acidity accompa-nies suggestions of ripe pear, mature yellow-apple skin and honeyed nuts. Downey Selections. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $15

85 Antiche Terre Venete NV Metodo Martinotti Brut (Lessini Durello). This opens with aro-

mas of green apple, honeysuckle and tropical fruit. The aromas carry over to the simple palate along with bitter almond and a candied note. Brisk, steely bubbles provide the setting. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $15

OLTREPÒ PAVESE

94 Castello di Cigognola 2013 Moratti Rosé Brut Nature (Oltrepò Pavese). Red berry, violet

and brioche aromas waft out of the glass on this lovely, dry Metodo Classico. Loaded with finesse and flavor, it features juicy strawberry, pomegran-ate, vanilla and a yeasty hint of bread dough along-side a silky perlage. Bright acidity keeps it remark-ably fresh and youthful. Crus & Stills. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

93 Castello di Cigognola 2013 Moratti Cuvée dell’Angelo Pas Dosé (Oltrepò Pavese).

Elegant, structured and bone-dry, this enticing sparkler offers aromas of Spanish broom, bread dough, white stone fruit and balsamic notes. The focused, savory palate delivers white peach, Meyer lemon and hazelnut set against racy acidity. A silky, persistent mousse lends finesse while a ginger note lingers on the finish. Crus & Stills. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $50

93 Oltrenero 2017 Pinot Meunier (Oltrepò Pavese). One of the few sparklers made

with 100% Meunier produced in the world, this soft, lovely sparkling wine has delicate scents of strawberry compote, citrus and a whiff of pastry cream. The tantalizing aromas flow over to the vibrant, supple palate along with the barest hint of hazelnut. Bright acidity keeps it energized while a foaming perlage lends silky finesse. 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $60

91 Castello di Cigognola NV Moratti Metodo Clas-sico Cuvée More Pas Dosé (Oltrepò Pavese).

BUYINGGUIDE


Aromas of brioche, yellow spring flower and white stone fruit shape the nose. Made entirely with Pinot Nero, the bone-dry, vibrant palate offers yellow apple, pomegranate and Meyer lemon alongside a hint of hazelnut. Crisp acidity and an elegant per-lage provide balance and finesse. Crus & Stills. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $30

91 Oltrenero 2015 Brut Nature (Oltrepò Pavese). Focused and vibrant, this wine offers aromas

of bread crust, botanical herb and white stone fruit. Made entirely with Pinot Nero, the linear, racy pal-ate delivers tart cherry, lemon zest and hazelnut alongside crisp acidity and a lively perlage. 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $50

90 Jako Wine 2016 Brut (Oltrepò Pavese). Aromas of bread crust, eucalyptus and fen-

nel carry over to the linear palate along with hazel-nut, orange rind and white cherry. An elegant per-lage and bright acidity provide the setting. Strategic Importers. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Oltrenero NV Rosé Cruasé (Oltrepò Pavese). Made with Pinot Nero, this savory sparkler

has enticing aromas of red berry, rose and rhubarb. On the bright, focused palate, crisp acidity and small, persistent bubbles provide an energized, pol-ished setting. 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $40

89 Castello di Cigognola NV Moratti Brut ( Oltrepò Pavese). Made with Pinot Nero,

this has aromas of orange zest, walnut, white stone fruit and brioche. The aromas carry on to the bright palate along with candied lemon drop set against a silky perlage. Crus & Stills. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $30

89 Oltrenero NV Brut (Oltrepò Pavese). Aromas of orange rind, walnut and bread crust

follow over to the straightforward but well made palate, along with mature yellow apple. Crisp acidity and a light perlage provide freshness and softness. 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $40

88 Jako Wine 2009 Metodo Classico Brut Riserva (Oltrepò Pavese). Aromas of orange

liqueur, toasted walnut and bread crust form the nose. The aromas carry over to the palate along with honey, mature yellow-apple skin and a candied note set against a foaming perlage. Fresh acidity lifts the rich, evolved flavors. Strategic Importers. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $80

TRENTO

97 Ferrari 2008 Riserva del Fondatore Rosé Extra Brut (Trento). Made with 70% Pinot

Nero and 30% Chardonnay, this exquisite, struc-tured sparkler opens with enticing scents of rose petal, citrus, baking spice and red berry. The gor-

geous, radiant palate boasts vibrancy and depth, featuring juicy red cherry and pomegranate overlay-ing rhubarb and mineral notes that recall graphite and saline. A silky, persistent perlage provides loads of finesse while bright acidity lends intensity and precision. Extraordinary. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $250

95 Ferrari NV Perlé Zero13 (Trento). Delicate aromas suggesting yellow spring flower,

brioche and white stone fruit form the nose on this elegant, focused sparkler. It’s racy and dry, featuring yellow apple, Bartlett pear, Meyer lemon and toast alongside a persistent, refined perlage. Crisp acid-ity gives it a pristine close. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

95 Ferrari 2012 Perlé Nero Extra Brut Riserva (Trento). Radiant, polished and utterly

-delicious, this divine sparkler hits all the right buttons. Made entirely with Pinot Nero, it has deli-cate but alluring aromas of white stone fruit, wild berry, yellow spring flower and brioche. The dry, creamy palate is chock full of finesse, delivering delicate layers of white peach, pomegranate, apple and bread crust alongside a silky perlage. Bright acidity keeps it balanced. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $85

95 Giulio Ferrari 2009 Riserva del Fondatore E xtra Brut (Trento). Creamy and boast-

ing complexity, this iconic sparkler offers delicate aromas of white spring flower, white stone fruit and toasted bread crust. On the elegantly sparkling palate, a silky perlage accompanies mature yellow apple, white peach, honey and a hint of lemon drop alongside crisp acidity. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $130

92 Ferrari 2015 Perlé Rosé Brut Riserva (Trento). Chamomile, hay, hazelnut and red-berry

aromas form the appealing nose. On the elegantly sparkling palate, bright acidity lifts sour cherry, apple and pomegranate before a bread-crust close. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

91 Ferrari NV Brut (Trento). For full review see page 14.

abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Ferrari 2015 Perlé Brut (Trento). For full review see page 14.


90 Ferrari NV Rosé Brut Metodo Classico (Trento). For full review see page 17.


90 Ferrari 2015 Lunelli Extra Brut Riserva ( Trento). Subdued aromas suggesting

toasted hazelnut, bread crust and mature white stone fruit shape the nose. The dry, linear, rather

lean palate picks up where the nose leaves off, offering coconut, oak, Meyer lemon and yellow-apple skin. An elegant perlage and crisp acidity accompany the linear palate. Taub Family Selec-tions. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $60

90 Oro Rosso NV Brut Rosé (Trento). Racy and focused, this opens with delicate aromas

of red berry, brioche and spring wild flower. On the crisp, dry palate, vibrant acidity accompanies pomegranate, tangy citrus and a hint of saline. A lively, refined perlage provides the backdrop. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Oro Rosso NV Dosaggio Zero (Trento). Aro-mas of hawthorn, white stone fruit and bri-

oche form the delicate nose on this silky sparkler. On the dry, vibrant palate, crisp acidity accompa-nies mature yellow apple, bread crust and honeyed notes. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Oro Rosso NV Brut (Trento). Aromas of bri-oche and white spring flower form the deli-

cate nose on this pretty sparkler. The palate offers creamy yellow apple, tangy lemon drop and a hint of almond alongside firm acidity and a lively perlage. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

OTHER SPARKLING WINES

95 Saracco 2019 Moscato d’Asti. For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 6% Price: $17

91 Castello di Neive 2014 Metodo Classico Extra Brut (Piemonte). Dry, racy and elegant, this

has subtle, enticing scents of spring wild flower, wild herb and stone fruit. The focused, linear pal-ate features apple, Meyer lemon, saline and hazel-nut alongside crisp acidity. A lively, refined perlage lends finesse. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

91 Corte Moschina NV Purocaso Vino Frizzante (Veneto). Savory and refreshing, this has

inviting aromas of chamomile, white stone fruit and a yeasty whiff of brioche. On the dry, lightly spar-kling palate, crisp acidity accompanies mature yel-low apple, Bartlett pear, saline and a hint of bitter almond. FJN Fine Wines. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $25

91 Cuvage 2016 Rosé Brut Metodo Classico (Neb-biolo d’Alba). For full review see page 13.

abv: 12.5% Price: $40

91 Gancia NV Brut 19 Mesi (Piemonte). Fresh and savory, this elegant sparkler hits all the right

buttons. Made with Pinot Nero and 20% Char-donnay, it features ripe white stone fruit, juicy red berry and brioche set against a refined, persistent

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perlage. Lively acidity keeps it bright and balanced. Roust. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $20

TUSCANYCHIANTI RUFINA

96 Selvapiana 2016 Vigneto Bucerchiale Riserva (Chianti Rufina). Loaded with per-

sonality, this opens with aromas of forest floor, new leather, camphor and ripe black-skinned fruit. The palate boasts an earthy elegance reminiscent of top Burgundies, showcasing ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, truffle, star anise and a hint of salted game. Firm, fine-grained tannins provide support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2022–2036. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

91 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi 2017 Nipozzano Vecchie Viti Riserva (Chianti Rufina). Under-

brush, camphor, coffee been and cassis aromas follow on to the elegantly structured palate, along with hints of orange zest and star anise. Taut, fine-grained tannins provide lithe support. Drink 2022–2027. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

91 Selvapiana 2018 Chianti Rufina. Fragrant and loaded with finesse, this vibrant red has aro-

mas of violet, wild berry, camphor and new leather. It’s radiant and racy, offering juicy cranberry, orange zest, star anise and crushed mint before closing on a hint of rusty nail. Lithe, polished tannins and vibrant acidity provide the setting. Drink through 2023. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

90 Frescobaldi 2017 Nipozzano Riserva (Chianti Rufina). For full review see page 17. Editors’

Choice. abv: 13% Price: $20

90 Grignano 2018 Ritratto del Cardinale (Chi-anti Rufina). Made with organically farmed

grapes, 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo, this vibrant young red has aromas of wild berry, rose, tilled earth and camphor. Bright and savory, the bright palate features red cherry, pomegranate and star anise framed in easygoing, lithe tannins. It’s made to for sheer drinking pleasure so enjoy soon. Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Grignano 2018 Chianti Rufina. Made with organically farmed grapes, this bright red

has aromas of forest berry, violet and a whiff of moist earth. The somewhat lean palate offers sour cherry, orange rind and hints of dark spice alongside taut, drying tannins. Zesty acidity keeps it lively. Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

COLLI DELLA TOSCANA CENTRALE

96 Fontodi 2017 Flaccianello della Pieve (Colli della Toscana Centrale). Aromas of baked

plum, blue flower, French oak and camphor are front and center on this bold, full-bodied red. Made entirely with organically grown Sangiovese, the deli-cious palate boasts concentration and a weightless elegance, doling out layers of ripe Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, licorice, cocoa and carob framed in tightly wound, close-grained tannins. Give it a few more years to fully develop. Drink 2023–2037. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $NA

94 Casa Emma 2018 Harenae (Colli della Tos-cana Centrale). For full review see page 6.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $30

COSTA TOSCANA

92 I Giusti e Zanza 2018 Dulcamara (Costa Toscana). Made with 70% Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, 25% Merlot and Petit Verdot, this has aromas recalling ripe black-skinned berry, menthol and dark spice. The concentrated, velvety palate offers cassis, dried cherry and licorice alongside close-grained, enveloping tannins. Drink 2022–2028. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

92 Tenuta di Ghizzano 2018 Il Ghizzano (Costa Toscana). Made with organically farmed

Sangiovese and 5% Merlot, this opens with aro-mas of red-skinned berry, iris and underbrush. The juicy palate offers raspberry, red cherry, star anise and white pepper alongside polished tannins and bright acidity. Enjoy through 2026. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 I Giusti e Zanza 2019 Belcore (Costa Toscana). Earthy aromas of underbrush, leather and

blue flower mingle with grilled herb on this 80% Sangiovese and Merlot blend. Spicy and savory, the linear palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, star anise and hints of game alongside taut, polished tannins. Tangy acidity keeps it fresh and balanced. Drink 2023–2029. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

90 I Giusti e Zanza 2019 Nemorino (Costa T oscana). A blend of 60% Syrah, 20% San-

giovese and Merlot, this light-bodied red has aro-mas of black-skinned berry, blue flower and cooking spice. Reflecting the nose, the lithe palate doles out juicy Marasca cherry and cooking spice alongside fine-grained tannins that leave a somewhat drying fi nish. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

89 Tenuta di Ghizzano 2017 Nambrot (Costa Toscana). A blend of organically farmed

Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this opens with aromas of cedar, black-skinned berry and mocha. The firm palate offers blackberry jam, tobacco, toasted oak and powdered sage alongside assertive, rather drying tannins that grip the finish. Drink through 2026. Maisons and Domaines Hen-riot. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO

96 Contucci 2016 Mulinvecchio (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). For full review see page 3.

Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $55

96 Contucci 2016 Pietra Rossa (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Truffle, rose, new leather

and menthol aromas shape the enticing nose along with scents of forest berry. Delicious and loaded with finesse, the smooth, taut palate delivers suc-culent red cherry, crushed strawberry, star anise and baking spice while firm, refined tannins provide noble support. It’s well balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2024–2036. Specialty Cellars. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $49

95 Dei 2016 Madonna delle Querce (Vino Nob-ile di Montepulciano). Classic Sangiovese

aromas of wild berry, blue flower, new leather and dark spice mingle together on this full-bodied red. Smooth and concentrated, it also boasts an almost weightless elegance, delivering succulent black cherry, licorice and menthol framed in tightly knit fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2022–2031. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $120

95 Salcheto 2017 Vecchie Viti Salco (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Another stellar per-

formance from this sustainable estate, this 100% Sangiovese made from organically farmed grapes is smooth and delicious. Opening with aromas of mature black-skinned fruit, violet and dark spice, the velvety, medium-bodied expands into juicy Morello cherry, ripe plum and licorice before clos-ing on a tobacco note. Taut, fine-grained tannins provide elegant support. Drink through 2027. Mas-sanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $85

94 Boscarelli 2017 Costa Grande (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Menthol, ripe black-

skinned berry, iris and oak-driven spice aromas take shape in the glass. The full-bodied, elegantly structured palate showcases ripe Morello cherry, orange zest and licorice before closing on a note of roasted coffee bean. Tightly knit, fine-grained tan-nins provide firm support while surprisingly fresh acidity for the hot vintage keeps it balanced. Drink 2023–2029. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

BUYINGGUIDE


94 Dei 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 14.5% Price: $34

94 Poliziano 2017 Asinone (Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano). Aromas of ripe black-skinned

fruit, menthol and French oak form the alluring nose. On the firm, full-bodied palate, tightly knit, close-grained tannins accompany ripe Marasca cherry, orange zest, roasted coffee bean and star anise. It’s densely structured but also has a weight-less vibrancy. Drink 2023–2029. Dalla Terra Win-ery Direct. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $63

94 Salcheto 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Made with organically grown Sangiovese

and adhering to certified sustainable practices, this delicious, fragrant red offers enticing scents of dark spice, new leather, wild berry and eucalyptus oil. The elegantly structured palate boasts wonderful fruit and spice, showcasing juicy Marasca cherry, raspberry compote and cinnamon while a licorice note lingers on the close. Silky tannins and fresh acidity keep it nicely balanced. Drink through 2025. Massanois Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

94 Salcheto 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano). Aromas of plum, violet and

tobacco are front and center along with a whiff of camphor on this fragrant, savory red. The smooth, enveloping palate has a weightless quality, featuring spiced blueberry, dried cherry and licorice framed in tightly knit but elegant tannins. Drink through 2031. Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

94 Salcheto 2016 Salco (Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano). Ripe plum, baking spice, menthol

and new leather are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this fantastic Sangiovese. On the elegantly structured, delicious palate, notes of ground pep-per and licorice accent a core of juicy black cherry and crushed raspberry set against a backbone of taut, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it nicely balanced. Drink 2024–2034. Massanois Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

93 Boscarelli 2017 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano). Subtle aromas of dark-skinned

berry, star anise and a whiff of leather form the nose on this blend of Sangiovese and 10% Colorino. Medium bodied and rather austere, the linear pal-ate features dried Marasca cherry, white pepper and ground clove alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2027. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

93 Boscarelli 2017 Sotto Casa Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). For full review see

page 8. abv: 14% Price: $77

93 Boscarelli 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano). Spicy aromas of white pepper and

star anise mingle with camphor and blue flower. Savory and balanced, the taut palate has finesse and surprising freshness for the vintage, showcasing Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, espresso and licorice. Taut, velvety tannins provide polished sup-port. Drink though 2027. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

93 Cantina Chiacchiera 2015 Mahti (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of wild berry,

rose, violet and new leather mingle with whiffs of menthol on this 100% Sangiovese. Elegantly struc-tured and delicious, the smooth, medium-bodied palate presents juicy Marasca cherry, ripe pome-granate, cocoa and licorice. Refined tannins provide polished support. Drink through 2028. Vinifera Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

93 Dei 2015 Bossona Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). The subtle nose slowly

opens to show mature plum, forest floor, blue flower and oak-driven spice. The concentrated, enveloping palate features steeped prune, licorice and tobacco set against tightly knit, fine-grained tannins. You’ll also get the warmth of evident alcohol on the close. Drink through 2025. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $69

93 Gracciano della Seta 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte pulciano. All about elegance, this

fragrant red offers lovely scents of blue flower, for-est berry, dark spice and a woodsy whiff of cedar. The lithe, savory palate delivers raspberry compote, wild cherry and licorice framed in taut, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it nicely balanced. Drink 2022–2027. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $32

93 Gracciano della Seta 2017 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of red

berry, rose and camphor slowly expand in the glass to include accents of dark spice. Supremely elegant, the lithe, savory palate features juicy black cherry, raspberry compote and licorice before closing on a ground cinnamon note. Taut, fine-grained tannins provide polished support. Drink 2023–2032. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $48

93 La Braccesca 2016 Maggiarino (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). French oak, fig, dates and

blue flower aromas are front and center. Elegantly structured, the smooth palate offers spiced blue-berry, prune, espresso and licorice accompanied by taut, fine-grained tannins. A tobacco note lingers on the finish while velvety, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity provide support. Drink through 2028. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

93 Trerose 2016 Simposio Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Made entirely with San-

giovese, this has aromas of forest floor, rose, new leather and menthol. Full bodied and elegantly structured, the palate shows Marasca cherry, blood orange, star anise and spearmint accompanied by

firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2028. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

92 Boscarelli 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Polished and savory, this medium-bodied

red opens with aromas of camphor, wild berry and new leather. On the linear palate, taut tannins accompany juicy Marasca cherry and licorice. Drink through 2025. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

92 Cantina del Giusto 2017 San Claudio II (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Earthy aromas

of new leather, underbrush and violet mingle with crushed mint on this smooth, full-bodied red. Chewy and enveloping, the juicy palate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, baked plum and licorice while tightly knit, fine grained tannins provide support. Drink through 2027. H. Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $23

92 Casale Daviddi 2016 Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano. Earthy aromas of leather, truffle,

rose and tilled earth lead the nose on this blend of Sangiovese, 5% Cannaiolo and 5% Mammolo. The savory palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, straw-berry compote and star anise against taut, close-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it bright. Drink through 2026. Vinarium Inc. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

92 Icario 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Enticing, earthy aromas of blue flower, per-

fumed berry and new leather mingle with a hint of truffle on this fragrant red. Full bodied and savory, the juicy palate features mouthfuls of ripe Morello cherry, black plum, licorice and baking spice set against taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2027. Golden Wine. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Il Conventino 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Forest floor, new leather,

blue flower and camphor aromas are front and cen-ter. Firm and focused, the medium-bodied palate offers Marasca cherry, licorice and hints of bak-ing spice set against taut, fine-grained tannins. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45

92 Il Molinaccio di Montepulciano 2017 La Spinosa (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano).

Aromas of ripe dark-skinned fruit, rose, star anise and eucalyptus lead the nose on this 100% Sangio-vese. Reflecting the nose, the savory, medium-bod-ied palate showcases ripe Marasca cherry, licorice and hints of almond framed in lithe, polished tan-nins. Drink through 2024. Strade Bianche Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

92 Il Molinaccio di Montepulciano 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Heady aromas

recalling forest berry, underbrush, blue flower and botanical herb escape the glass. On the juicy, savory

WINEMAG.COM | 101

palate, notes of ground pepper and star anise accent a red-cherry core before a tobacco close. Taut, refined tannins provide polished support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink through 2028. Strade Bianche Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $56

92 La Braccesca 2016 Vigneto Santa Pia Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Red-berry,

blue-flower and oak-driven aromas mingle together in the glass. The linear, elegantly structured palate offers cranberry, star anise and coffee bean alongside polished, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

92 Le Bèrne 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano). This big red has pronounced aro-

mas of forest floor, ground cinnamon, baked plum and violet. The chewy, savory palate has an earthy appeal, offering black cherry, licorice and salted game set against tightly knit, close-grained tannins. Drink now through 2026. Siena Imports. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $48

92 Lunadoro 2017 Pagliareto (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of blue flower, ripe

berry and dark culinary spice lead the nose on this inviting red. It’s full bodied and already accessible, doling out flavors of baked plum, cherry compote and star anise set against fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2025. Schenk Wines USA. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

92 Palazzo Vecchio 2017 Maestro (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Inviting aromas of spiced

plum, crushed mint and blue flower are front and center. A blend of Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and 5% Mammolo, the brooding palate features dried black cherry, cinnamon and star anise set against a backbone of firm, close-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2029. Girasole Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $24

92 Poggio alla Sala 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Blue-flower, ripe berry and

spicy aromas of sandalwood form the nose. Medium-bodied and elegantly structured, the palate offers mature blackberry, juicy plum and star anise along-side taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2026. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $34

92 Poliziano 2017 Le Caggiole (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Classic Sangiovese aromas

of violet, ripe berry and forest floor mingle with a whiffs of menthol and exotic spice. Dense and pow-erfully structured, the palate delivers dried cherry, espresso and vanilla alongside tightly woven, fine-grained tannins that leave a firm, drying finish. You’ll also feel the heat of evident alcohol. Drink 2023–2029. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $100

92 Talosa 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano). This full-bodied red has enticing

aromas of fragrant purple flower, forest floor and

oak-driven spice. The elegantly structured palate features ripe red cherry, star anise and coffee bean set against firm, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink now through 2031. Verve Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $43

92 Trerose 2017 Santa Caterina (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Blue flower, wild berry and

crushed mint are some of the aromas you’ll find on this medium-bodied Sangiovese. Elegantly struc-tured and savory, the smooth palate features juicy black cherry, raspberry compote and licorice set against firm, refined tannins. It’s also surprisingly fresh for the scorching vintage. Drink through 2027. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

91 Contucci 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Earthy aromas of forest floor, rose, new

leather and crushed botanical herb shape the nose on this classically crafted red. Racy and linear, the vibrant palate features juicy red cherry, cranberry, star anise and white pepper framed in taut tannins. It cries out for food. Drink 2022–2028. Specialty Cellars. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $39

91 De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Rose, new leather and cam-

phor mingle with a whiff of woodland berry on this 100% Sangiovese. Elegantly structured, the linear palate offers ripe cherry, strawberry, coffee bean and ground clove set against fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2025. DJK Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

91 Folonari 2017 Torcalvano (Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano). Camphor, pressed rose and mature

woodland berry shape the alluring nose. Savory and elegantly structured, the medium-bodied pal-ate features dried cherry, licorice and crushed mint before closing on a coffee note. Lithe, refined tan-nins offer polished support. Drink through 2025. Kobrand. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $26

91 Il Conventino 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepul-ciano. Aromas of scorched earth, new leather

and roasted nut form the nose along with a whiff of violet. The chewy, savory palate doles out ripe plum, cherry compote and licorice alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2027. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Il Macchione 2016 Vino Nobile di Montepul-ciano. Fragrant and refined, this medium-

bodied red has aromas of iris, rose, ripe berry and sandalwood. It’s elegant and already accessible, offering juicy Marasca cherry, licorice and ground clove. Polished tannins offer light support. Drink through 2023. APS Wine & Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $36

91 La Ciarliana 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Underbrush, baked plum, mint and cocoa

aromas slowly take shape in the glass. The brawny palate doles out blackberry jam, cherry tart and licorice alongside close-grained tannins. You’ll also notice the warmth of evident alcohol on the close. Drink 2022–2027. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $27

91 Poggio alla Sala 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano. Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle

with cedar and oak-driven spice on this medium-bodied red. The ripe but elegantly structured palate presents juicy Morello cherry, orange zest, licorice and toasted nut framed in fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2025. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

91 Poliziano 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Black-skinned fruit, French oak and violet

aromas slowly take shape on this full-bodied red. Densely concentrated, the chewy palate features dried cherry, prune and licorice alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2025. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Villa S. Anna 2016 Poldo (Vino Nobile di Mon-tepulciano). Initially shy, the nose eventually

reveals French oak, underbrush, coconut and dried herb. The palate is more expressive, offering mature Morello cherry, orange zest and licorice set against taut, close-grained tannins. A coffee-bean note marks the finish. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

90 Antico Colle 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepul-ciano. Scorched earth, menthol and oak-

driven spice aromas shape the nose along with mature black-skinned fruit. The firm, full-bodied palate takes up where the nose left off, recalling ripe black cherry, menthol and star anise. Tightly wound, close-grained tannins grip the close. Drink 2023–2029. Kindred Spirits, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

90 Casale Daviddi 2015 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Scorched earth, leather

and game aromas come together on this earthy red along with eucalyptus notes. Showing the heat of the vintage, the medium-bodied palate is already rather evolved but also full of flavor, delivering fleshy black plum, ripe Marasca cherry and bak-ing spice before finishing on the same gamy note from the nose. Enveloping tannins provide velvety support. Drink through 2025. Vinarium Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

90 La Braccesca 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano. For full review see page 17.

abv: 14.5% Price: $25

90 La Ciarliana 2016 Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano. Scorched earth, truffle and new

leather aromas line up in the glass along with whiffs of charcuterie. The big, chewy palate shows steeped prune, licorice and espresso alongside enveloping,

BUYINGGUIDE


fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2026. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $27

90 Le Bèrne 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Aromas of rose, French oak and crushed

mint lead the nose. Taut and elegantly structured, the medium-bodied palate offers dried Marasca cherry, ground pepper and star anise framed in firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2027. Siena I mports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $29

90 Lunadoro 2016 Quercione Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Made with San-

giovese and 10% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this has aromas recalling underbrush, menthol and whiffs of violet. The linear palate reveals cassis, clove and powdered sage alongside dusty, drying tannins. A coffee-bean note marks the close. Schenk Wines USA. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Metinella 2017 Burberosso (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Blue-flower, spiced blue-

berry and camphor aromas waft out of the glass. Taut and linear, the palate offers ripe black cherry, star anise and espresso alongside polished tannins. Drink through 2024. Forza Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Montemercurio 2016 Messaggero (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Forest floor,

menthol and leather aromas mingle together on this robust red. On the big, brooding palate, close-grained tannins accompany cherry marinated in spirits, prune and licorice. The heat of evident alco-hol lingers on the close. Golden Vines. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $29

90 Palazzo Vecchio 2013 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Leather, porcini mush-

room and balsamic aromas of camphor form the subtle, earthy nose along with a whiff of cedar. The smooth, medium-bodied palate offers dried cherry, tobacco and baking spice alongside drying, fine-grained tannins. It still has fresh acidity but drink sooner rather than later to capture the remaining fruit. Girasole Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

90 Talosa 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Wild-berry, botanical-herb and dark-spice

aromas mingle together on this 100% Sangiovese. On the polished, full-bodied palate, tightly knit, fine-grained tannins accompany dried cherry, orange zest and licorice. Drink 2022–2027. Verve Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

90 Tiberini 2016 Podere Le Caggiole (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of vio-

let, red berry, baking spice and new leather form the nose on this fragrant blend of 90% Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo. The vibrant palate is already approachable, offering sour cherry, orange zest, uncooked fennel and a note of crushed mint

alongside lithe, drying tannins. Bright acidity keeps it light on its feet. Enotria Wine Import. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

89 Bindella 2016 Vallocaia Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of ripe dark-

skinned berry, baking spice and blue flower come together on this blend of 90% Sangiovese and Colorino. The linear palate stars off with ripe Mar-asca cherry, orange zest and licorice before grainy tannins abruptly shut it down, with a clenching, astringent finish. Vinaio Caprese. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $54

89 Cantina Chiacchiera 2017 Vino Nobile di Mon-tepulciano. Earthy whiffs of truffle, game

and leather form the rather subdued nose on this blend of 90% Sangiovese plus Mammolo, Ciliegiolo and Canaiolo. The aromas carry on to the taut pal-ate along with dried cherry, crushed mint and star anise. It’s already accessible, with dusty tannins. Drink through 2023. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $21

89 Carpineto 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte pulciano). Earthy aromas of under-

brush, leather and a whiff of game form the subtle nose. The rather light-bodied, accessible palate offers prune, licorice and a dollop of vanilla along-side dusty, drying tannins. Opici Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

89 De’ Ricci Cantine Storiche 2016 Soraldo (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of

blue flower, menthol, sandalwood and other oak-driven spices form the nose. It’s on the lighter side of medium-bodied, offering dried cherry, coffee bean and star anise alongside fresh acidity and dusty, close-grained tannins that leave a drying finish. Drink through 2024. DJK Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

89 Fanetti–Tenuta S. Agnese 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of

underbrush, blue flower, leather and stewed cherry form the nose. The medium-bodied, no-frills palate offers dried cherry, cinnamon and star anise along-side dusty, drying tannins. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30

89 Fassati 2016 Gersemi (Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano). Forest floor, scorched earth and

camphor aromas form the earthy nose while the medium-bodied palate suggests dried cherry, orange rind and a hint of toasted nut. Dusty, drying tannins provide the setting. Maverick Selections. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Fassati 2016 Salaracco Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Damp underbrush, leather

and blue-flower aromas mingle with a whiff of game. The earthy, no-frills palate offers dried cherry, star anise, sage and the same gamy note as the nose alongside dusty, rather drying tannins. Maverick Selections. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

89 Le Bertille 2015 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Monte pulciano). Made with Sangiovese and

a dollop of Colorino and Canaiolo, this has aromas of underbrush, scorched earth, leather and blue flower. Medium bodied and straightforward, the palate offers dried cherry, baking spice and a hint of star anise alongside dusty tannins. Drink through 2025. Singular Selections. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Lombardo 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Blue-flower, steeped prune and nutmeg aro-

mas mingle with whiffs of new leather. The robust palate shows the heat of the vintage, offering dried cherry, raisin and licorice framed in brooding, envel-oping tannins. You’ll also get the warmth of evident alcohol on the close. Drink sooner rather than later. Eagle Eye Brands. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $28

89 Poggio alla Sala 2017 Parceto (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Scorched earth, under-

brush and stewed prune aromas follow over to the austere palate along with licorice and a hint of men-thol. It’s on the lean side, with firm, drying tannins. Drink 2022–2027. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55

89 Talosa 2017 Filai Lunghi (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Balsamic aromas of new

leather and camphor mingle with cedar on this full-bodied red. Showing the heat of the vintage, the palate is rather evolved in terms of fruit richness, suggesting steeped prune, roasted coffee bean and licorice alongside close-grained, drying tannins. Verve Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $62

89 Tiberini 2013 Vigna Fossatone Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Rose, new leather

and cedar aromas slowly form the nose. The palate is linear and austere, offering spiced cranberry, star anise, coffee bean and menthol framed in taut, close-grained tannins that leave a lean, drying fi nish. E notria Wine Import. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

89 Triacca 2016 Santavenere (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of dark-skinned

berry, underbrush and espresso form the subtle nose. Mirroring the aromas, the palate offers mature Marasca cherry, prune, roasted coffee bean and a hint of licorice alongside dusty, drying tannins. Drink soon. Wineco Importing. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

89 Valdipiatta 2017 Vigna d’Alfiero (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Underbrush, wild berry

and coconut aromas come together on the 100% Sangiovese. The taut, austere palate recalls sour cherry, roasted coffee bean and toasted nut alongside tightly knit, grainy tannins that clench the finish. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

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88 Bindella 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Linear and fragrant, this offers aromas of

wild red berry, sunbaked earth and dark spice. The taut, straightforward palate has Marasca cherry and star anise alongside dusty, drying tannins. Vinaio Caprese. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $27

88 Bindella 2017 I Quadri (Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano). French oak aromas take center

stage along with whiffs of camphor and underbrush. On the austere palate, assertive, close-grained tan-nins accompany raisin, orange rind, licorice and coffee bean while a note of powdered sage marks the astringent finish. Vinaio Caprese. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $43

88 Canneto 2015 Casina di Doro (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of burned rubber,

violet and toasted nut mingle together on this San-giovese along with a whiff of camphor. On the dense palate, the heat of alcohol accompanies prune, dried cherry and coffee bean before grainy, drying tan-nins leave and astringent finish. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $42

88 Casale Daviddi 2015 Camaione (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Balsamic aromas of

camphor mingle with leather, underbrush and blue flower on this earthy red. Made entirely with San-giovese, the medium-bodied palate offers prune, blood orange vanilla and game alongside dusty, dry-ing tannins. Drink sooner rather than later to cap-ture the remaining fruit. Vinarium Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

88 Fattoria Del Cerro 2016 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Rose, graphite and oak-

driven aromas are front and center. The medium-bodied palate opens with prune, licorice and coffee bean before close-grained tannins shut it down with an astringent, tongue-drying close. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $36

88 Gattavecchi 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepul-ciano. Dark-spice, new leather and sun-

baked earth aromas take shape in the glass. Austere and firm, the palate is bit lean in terms of fruit rich-ness, offering unripe cherry, orange rind and star anise set against assertive, close-grained tannins that clench the finish. Give the tannins a few years to unwind then drink sooner rather later. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 Gattavecchi 2016 Riserva dei Padri Serviti (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of

weedy underbrush and leather lead the nose along with whiffs of dark culinary spice. The medium-bodied palate is rather light on its feet, offering mature black cherry, prune and licorice alongside fresh acidity and dusty tannins that leave a drying finish. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $27

87 Corte alla Flora 2015 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Aromas of wood shop,

eucalyptus and a whiff of rose form the subdued nose. Made with Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this red has a palate that offers more oak-driven spice, vanilla and candied notes alongside astringent, grainy tannins that clench the finish. It’s already evolved and doesn’t have the fruit richness to stand up to the oak-driven sensations. Noble Tuscan Wine. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Fattoria Del Cerro 2017 Silineo (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). French oak, menthol and

rose aromas slowly form in the glass. On the rather lean, austere palate, vanilla, espresso and candied notes accent a dried cherry core while close-grained tannins leave a dusty, drying finish. Drink through 2025. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

87 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Blue flower, wild

berry and a whiff of spice waft out of the glass. The straightforward, no-frills palate offers ripe cherry and hints of star anise framed in dusty, rather dry-ing tannins. Drink through 2023. Saranty Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

86 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2017 Poggio Stella (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano).

Aromas of rose, graphite and botanical herb lift out of the glass along with a whiff of new leather. The medium-bodied, no-frills palate offers dried cherry, ground clove and a hint of dried mint alongside dusty, somewhat drying tannins. Drink through 2024. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $26

85 Duca di Cardino 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano. This has subtle aromas suggesting

rose, weedy underbrush, eucalyptus oil and scorched earth. The light-bodied, lean palate recalls prune and roasted coffee bean alongside dusty, fleeting tannins that leave and abrupt, mouthdrying close. Lionstone International. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $24

85 Fattoria Svetoni 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano. Aromas suggesting weedy under-

brush, used leather and French oak lead the sub-dued nose. The lean, austere palate suggests unripe berry, roasted coffee bean and green notes of pow-dered sage, while raspy tannins leave an abrupt, astringent finish. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

85 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2017 Can-tina del Redi (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano).

This has aromas recalling underbrush, camphor and a whiff of rose. The lean, austere palate opens with dried cherry and espresso before grainy tannins give it an abrupt, extremely astringent finish. Superior Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

83 Duca di Saragnano 2017 Vino Nobile di Monte-pulciano. Aromas of burned rubber and

scorched earth carry over to the lean, diluted palate along with the barest hint of prune. It also has green notes of powdered sage as well as astringent, fleet-ing tannins. Pazzione Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $24

TOSCANA

96 Castello dei Rampolla 2017 Sammarco (T oscana). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,

Sangiovese and Merlot, this delicious, juicy red offers inviting aromas of new leather, blue flower, ripe black-skinned fruit and grilled herb. On the smooth, savory palate, tightly knit, fine-grained tannins seamlessly support fleshy black cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and tobacco before closing on a mocha note. Drink through 2029. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

96 Castello dei Rampolla 2016 d’Alceo ( Toscana). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon

and Petit Verdot, this compelling wine opens with enticing aromas of ripe dark-skinned fruit, new leather, pipe tobacco and menthol. Chewy and delicious, the palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and baking spice framed in firm, refined tannins. It’s full bodied, with a weightless elegance and a crushed mint finish. Drink 2022–2028. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

94 Isole e Olena 2017 Cepparello Sangiovese (Toscana). Scorched earth, new leather, ripe

black-skinned berry and balsamic whiffs of camphor and cedar form the nose. Smooth and juicy, the savory palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, mature plum, toasted hazelnut and ground clove set against velvety, enveloping tannins. Drink 2022–2029. Chambers & Chambers. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $95

93 Castello dei Rampolla 2018 Liù Merlot ( Toscana). New leather, menthol, cassis and

cured meat aromas lead the nose on this succulent Merlot. Savory and full bodied, the smooth, concen-trated palate doles out mouthfuls of blackberry jam, Marasca cherry and star anise alongside polished, enveloping tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it bright. Drink through 2023. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

92 Castello dei Rampolla 2019 Santa Lucia Senza Solfiti Aggiunti Sangiovese (Tos-

cana). Fresh and delicious, this 100% Sangiovese has earthy aromas of sunbaked soil, truffle, leather and ripe plum. Made entirely in earthenware ves-sels of cocciopesto (a blend of stone, sand, marl and terra-cotta) and without added sulfites, the smooth, juicy palate doles out ripe black cherry, blackberry, baking spice and mineral alongside supple tan-nins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. It’s made to be drunk young so enjoy soon. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

BUYINGGUIDE


92 Felsina 2017 Fontalloro Sangiovese ( Toscana). Aromas of leather, camphor, underbrush

and violet form the nose. The linear, medium-bodied palate shows tart cherry, orange zest and tobacco alongside grainy tannins that leave a rather drying finish. Polaner Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $62

92 Marchesi Pancrazi 2018 Monte Ferrato Pinot Nero (Toscana). Elegantly structured, this

100% Pinot Nero is racy and loaded with finesse. It opens with aromas of rhubarb, red berry and baking spice that carry over to the focused palate along with strawberry compote, mineral and licorice. Bright acidity and refined, supple tannins provide energy and the polished framework. Drink through 2025. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $30

92 Marchesi Pancrazi 2016 Vigna Baragazza Pinot Nero (Toscana). Underbrush, eucalyp-

tus, rhubarb and ripe berry form the nose on this 100% Pinot Nero. Elegantly structured and focused, the linear palate features spiced cranberry, pome-granate, star anise and a dollop of vanilla alongside polished tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink through 2026. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

92 Tenuta Sette Cieli 2017 Indaco (Toscana). This blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet

Sauvignon opens with aromas of ripe black-skinned berry, Mediterranean herb and cedar. The firmly structured palate delivers cassis, black currant, licorice and black pepper alongside chewy tannins. Drink through 2028. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

91 Certosa di Belriguardo 2016 Rosso di Clausura (Toscana). This blend of 80% Sangiovese

and 20% Merlot offers aromas of cassis, forest floor and tobacco. The savory, solid palate features black-berry, clove and blood orange alongside dusty tan-nins that lead to a tart finish. Enjoy through 2028. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45

91 Diadema 2018 Rosso (Toscana). A blend of 75% Sangiovese, 22% Merlot and 3% Petit

Verdot, this opens with aromas of black-skinned berry, espresso and tobacco. The medium-bodied, savory palate offers ripe black currant, vanilla and licorice alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2027. Noble Harvest, LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $98

91 Tenuta di Biserno 2019 Campo di Sasso Insoglio del Cinghiale (Toscana). A blend of

Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this lithe red has aromas of cas-sis, blue flower and oak-driven spice. It’s medium bodied and smooth, featuring blueberry, blackberry and star anise alongside polished tannins. Drink through 2022. Kobrand. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $34

91 Tenuta Le Calcinaie 2016 Teodoro (Toscana). A blend of Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 5%

Cabernet Sauvignon, this opens with enticing aro-mas of black-skinned berry, leather and cooking spice. The savory, balanced palate offers blackberry jam, tobacco and clove alongside chewy tannins. Drink through 2027. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Brancatelli 2016 Valle del Sogno (Toscana). This blend of organically grown Cabernet

Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc offers dark-skinned fruit, cedar and mocha aromas. The chewy palate features blackberry jam, clove and white pepper alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2027. Uva Imports. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $75

90 La Selva 2019 Privo Organic Red (Toscana). For full review see page 20. Best Buy.

abv: 14% Price: $15

90 Tenuta Le Calcinaie 2019 Ingredienti: Uva Sangiovese (Toscana). Made with no added

sulfites, this 100% Sangiovese has aromas of red-skinned berry, underbrush and baking spice. The bright, juicy palate doles out red cherry, crushed raspberry and cinnamon alongside taut tannins and lively acidity. It’s made to be enjoyed young, so drink through 2023. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

90 Tenuta Sette Cieli 2017 Scipio Cabernet Franc (Toscana). Made entirely with Caber-

net Franc, this offers aromas of toasted oak, green bell pepper and ripe dark-skinned fruit. The dense palate features black-currant jam, clove and sage alongside grainy tannins and a tart, drying finish. Drink through 2027. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $125

89 Casa di Terra 2018 Poggio Querciolo Syrah (Toscana). This Syrah has aromas of dark-

skinned fruit, cedar and vanilla. The firm palate presents black-currant jam, licorice and mocha alongside polished tannins. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

89 Certosa di Belriguardo 2017 Baccano (T oscana). Made with 80% Sangiovese and

20% Syrah, this offers aromas of black-skinned berry, green tea and tobacco. The savory palate displays black currant, cinnamon and white pep-per alongside velvety tannins. Drink through 2025. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

89 Certosa di Belriguardo 2016 Chiostro di Venere (Toscana). Made with 60% Sangiovese and

40% Cabernet Sauvignon, this has aromas of ripe black plum, roasted coffee bean and sunbaked soil. The dense palate offers sour cherry, espresso and raw almond alongside close-grained tannins. Drink through 2026. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

89 Diadema 2018 Damare (Toscana). This blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer-

lot and Petit Verdot offers aromas of black-skinned berry, mocha and coconut. The forward palate shows blackberry jam, toasted oak and cooking spice alongside chewy tannins. Drink through 2026. Noble Harvest, LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Il Palazzino 2018 Rosso del Palazzino ( Toscana). Made with Sangiovese and small

percentages of Canaiolo and Colorino, this has aro-mas recalling red-skinned berry, violet and baking spice. The juicy, easy-drinking palate offers rasp-berry jam, clove and vanilla alongside smooth tan-nins. Drink through 2023. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

89 Il Palazzino 2016 Stagi Colorino (Toscana). This deeply colored wine opens with aromas

of baked plum, underbrush and cedar. Made with 100% Colorino, the solid palate offers ripe black-berry, mocha and white pepper alongside firm tan-nins. Drink through 2026. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Capezzana 2016 Ghiaie della Furba ( Toscana). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and

Syrah, this offers aromas of toasted oak, espresso, and ripe dark-skinned fruit. The extracted palate offers raisin, roasted coffee bean and sage alongside grainy, rather astringent tannins. Drink through 2024. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $51

88 Casa di Terra 2019 Lenaia (Toscana). Made entirely with Malbec, this opens with aro-

mas of cassis, leather and graphite. The juicy palate offers dried blackberry, clove and vanilla alongside velvety tannins. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19

88 Gualdo del Re 2016 Quintorè Merlot ( Toscana). This 100% Merlot has subdued aromas of

mocha, toasted oak and ripe dark-skinned fruit. The solid palate offers roasted coffee bean, prune and clove alongside close-grained, rather astrin-gent tannins. Drink through 2024. The Wine Trust. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $153

88 Tenute di Mansalto 2018 Castello Rapale (Toscana). This blend of Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, Merlot and Sangiovese opens with aromas of dark-skinned fruit, tilled earth and cooking spice. The dense, no-frills palate offers prune, clove and cedar alongside taut tannins. Drink through 2025. Trinity Beverage Group. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

88 Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano 2019 Vin del Fattore Governo all’Uso Toscano

( Toscana). Aromas of scorched earth, cooking spice and dark-skinned fruit form the subtle nose on this 90% Sangiovese and 10% Ciliegiolo. The straight-

WINEMAG.COM | 105

forward palate recalls prune, star anise and vanilla alongside smooth tannins. Drink soon. Conexport Italy. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano 2015 Poco per Pochi (Toscana). Made with San-

giovese, Ciliegiolo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this has aromas of sage, toasted oak and cooking spice. The straightforward, concentrated palate shows blackberry jam, mocha and toasted hazelnut alongside chewy tannins. Drink through 2026. Conexport Italy. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

87 Bonacchi 2018 Badesco (Toscana). A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, this opens with roasted coffee bean, coconut and baking-spice aromas. The straightforward pal-ate offers prune, clove and espresso alongside dusty tannins. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

86 Bonacchi 2018 Borghetto (Toscana). Made with Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet

Sauvignon, this has aromas recalling damp soil, leather and clove. The simple palate offers red plum, vanilla and caramel alongside pliant tannins. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

OTHER RED WINES

92 Selvapiana 2017 Villa Petrognano (Pomino). Fragrant and refined, this opens with entic-

ing scents of rose, violet, sandalwood and forest floor. All about finesse, the elegantly structured pal-ate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, strawberry com-pote, star anise and ground cinnamon set against firm, fine-grained tannins. It’s well balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2029. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

88 Frescobaldi 2019 Castiglioni (Chianti). A blend of Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, this

has pretty aromas of woodland berry, blue flower and baking spice. Fresh and savory, the easygoing pal-ate delivers juicy black cherry, cocoa and star anise framed in supple tannins. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $14

OTHER ITALYVERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI

JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE

91 Umani Ronchi 2018 Casal di Serra Bio (Verdic-chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore).

Aromas of botanical herb, white stone fruit and almond carry on to the savory palate along with peach and a hint of lemon drop. It closes on a hint

of saline while tangy acidity keeps it fresh and juicy. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19

91 Umani Ronchi 2018 Vecchie Vigne (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Made

with organically farmed, old vines and aged in con-crete, this medium-bodied white has delicate aro-mas of white stone fruit, Spanish broom and a whiff of hazelnut. Reflecting the nose, the rounded pal-ate offers ripe yellow pear, lemon drop and honeyed almond alongside bright, tangy acidity. A hint of saline lingers on the close. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI

89 Umani Ronchi 2017 Plenio Riserva (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). This has delicate aromas

suggesting chamomile, honey and balsamic aromas of eucalyptus. The aromas carry over to the rounded palate along with ripe yellow pear and toasted almond before a hint of saline marks the close. It has an almost glycerine like texture. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40

88 Umani Ronchi 2019 Villa Bianchi (Verdic-chio dei Castelli di Jesi). Tangy and fresh,

this offers aromas of fragrant spring flower, tropical fruit and citrus. On the tangy palate, crisp acidity accompanies juicy pineapple, grapefruit and a hints of peach. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

BARBERA D’ALBA

90 Anselma Giacomo 2018 Barbera d’Alba. Earthy and savory, this juicy red opens with

aromas of ripe Marasca cherry, truffle, tilled earth and blue flower. The smooth, succulent palate doles out ripe red cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and white pepper framed in supple tannins. Drink through 2022. Weygandt-Metzler. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

89 Ettore Germano 2017 della Madre (Barbera d’Alba). Ripe and concentrated, this has a

subtle nose that eventually reveals mature black-skinned fruit, toasted nut and cooking-spice aromas. On the densely concentrated palate, polished tan-nins gently support fleshy black cherry, ripe plum and white pepper. Sussex Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $NA

BAROLO

93 Mirafiore 2016 Barolo. Delicate aromas of forest berry, new leather, violet and cam-

phor waft out of the glass. Elegantly structured, the savory palate doles out strawberry compote, crushed raspberry and star anise alongside bright acidity. It’s full bodied but the lithe tannins and the

freshness give it an almost weightless feel. Drink through 2026. Trinity Beverage Group. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

91 Fontanafredda 2016 Barolo. Aromas of red woodland berry, menthol, rose and an earthy

whiff of tilled soil are front and center on this lovely red. The vibrant, elegant palate doles out straw-berry compote, star anise and baking spice, along-side taut, polished tannins. It’s already going down easily but will offer several years or more of sheer drinking pleasure. Enjoy through 2026. Taub Family Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

DOLCETTO D’ALBA

90 Sandrone 2018 Dolcetto d’Alba. Savory and elegant, this lithe red has inviting aromas of

crushed berry, violet, star anise and botanical herb. The linear, juicy palate delivers Morello cherry, star anise and a hint of bitter almond alongside grace-ful tannins and bright acidity. Drink through 2022. Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $25

LANGHE

92 Cascina delle Rose 2019 Langhe. All about fragrance and finesse, this radiant red opens

with enticing scents of perfumed berry, menthol, rose petal and a hint of dried aromatic herb. Vini-fied only in steel, it’s precise, pristine and delicious, delivering strawberry compote, white pepper and star anise alongside polished tannins. Bright acid-ity keeps it fresh and focused. Polaner Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

88 Ettore Germano 2019 Langhe. Bright and savory, this shows Nebbiolo’s playful side,

offering aromas and flavors of juicy red cherry, botanical herb, menthol and star anise. Bright acidity and lithe tannins keep it fresh and easygo-ing. Drink through 2022. Sussex Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA

SPARKLING WINES

92 Travaglini 2015 Metodo Classico Nebolè Dosaggio Zero (Vino Spumante). Made

entirely with Nebbiolo, this vibrant sparkler offers inviting aromas of white stone fruit, chamomile and bread crust. On the bone-dry, savory palate, an elegant perlage accompanies pomegranate, Empire apple and baking-spice notes lifted by crisp acid-ity. A fennel note lingers on the close. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

91 Colonnara 2013 Metodo Classico Ubaldo Rosi Brut (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). Aromas of

BUYINGGUIDE


hawthorn, ripe white stone fruit and botanical herb waft out of the glass along with a hint of brioche. On the dry, foaming palate, crisp acidity and a refined perlage accompany mature yellow apple, lemon drop, thyme and hazelnut. Bluest Sky Group. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $90

90 Corte Giacobbe NV Brut (Vino Spumante). Aromas of bread crust, toasted nut, graphite

and ripe stone fruit waft out of the glass. The aromas carry over to the racy, linear palate along with lemon drop and ginger set against a lively perlage. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Dorigo NV Metodo Classico Blanc de Noir Dosaggio Zero (Vino Spumante). Subtle

aromas of botanical herb, hawthorn and cedar form the nose while the dry palate offers yellow apple, grapefruit and walnut. Crisp acidity and a lively perlage provide the backdrop. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Lungarotti NV Rosé Brut (Vino Spumante). Made with Pinot Grigio and Sangiovese,

this has delicate aromas suggesting pressed rose, bread crust and botanical herb. The supple palate shows sour cherry, hazelnut and a candied note alongside bright acidity and a soft perlage. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Lungarotti 2016 Brut (Vino Spumante). A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero,

this has aromas of bread crust and walnut. The aromas follow over to the palate along with but-terscotch, mature yellow-apple skin and a dollop of vanilla. A lively perlage provides the setting. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Baracchi 2016 Metodo Classico Brut (Vino Spumante). Made with Trebbiano, this has

aromas of bread crust, citrus rind and white stone fruit. The vibrant palate offers ripe yellow pear, can-died orange slice and a hint of toasted walnut along-side a soft perlage. Grapejuice Group. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $34

88 Dorigo NV Metodo Classico Brut (Vino Spumante). White spring flower and white

stone fruit aromas waft out of the glass. The gently sparkling palate offers yellow apple, citrus and a hint of bread crust alongside crisp acidity. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

87 Colonnara NV Spumante Metodo Classico Luigi Ghisleri Brut (Verdicchio dei Castelli

di Jesi). Made with Verdicchio grapes, this has unusual aromas recalling dill and celery that accent white stone fruit. The straightforward palate shows mature yellow apple, chestnut and toasted walnut alongside lively bubbles. Bluest Sky Group. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

87 Dal Cero NV Rosé Brut Camely (Vino Spumante). Aromas of brioche, underbrush

and hazelnut mingle together. On the lively palate, invigorating bubbles accompany juicy sour cherry, orange zest and a hint of walnut. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Damoli NV AvantGarde Nature (Vino Spumante). Made with the red grape

C orvina (of Amarone and Valpolicella fame), this blanc de noir sparkler has aromas of toasted bread crust and nut. The aromas carry over to the lively palate along with acacia honey and an invigorating perlage. Vino Veritas. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

87 Jako Wine 2015 Metodo Classico Pas Dosé (Vino Spumante). Aromas of medicinal herb,

grapefruit, lily flower and adhesive bandage follow over to the dry palate along with bitter almond and yellow-apple skin. Racy acidity and steely bubbles create a lean close. Strategic Importers. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

87 Lungarotti 2014 Extra Brut (Vino Spumante). Aromas suggesting toasted nut and a whiff

of adhesive bandage form the subdued nose. On the lean and racy palate, brisk acidity accompanies sug-gestions of medicinal herb, lemon rind and bitter walnut. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

GERMANYDRY RIESLING

93 Schäfer-Fröhlich 2018 Vulkangestein Ries-ling Trocken (Nahe). Smoke and struck flint

introduce this spicy, intensely mineral dry Riesling sourced from volcanic soils. It’s gorgeously steely but packed with zesty grapefruit, lime and lemon flavors as well. Slim in profile yet penetrating on the palate, it’s a wine that should improve well through 2028 and hold further. The German Wine Collec-tion. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $42

93 Villa Wolf 2013 Forster Pechstein Library Release Dry Riesling (Pfalz). Glorious whiffs

of petrichor and pristine white peach abound on this deeply concentrated library release. Full-bod-ied and still fresh in demeanor, it offers a lovely combination of bright peach and lemon flavors against delicate maturity notes of earth, smoke and brine. A tug of tannins extends the finish along with a piercing strike of acidity. Lovely now but should continue to gain interesting subtleties through the decade. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $40

92 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Bernkasteler Alte Badstube Am Doctorberg Dry Riesling

(Mosel). Dry in style yet exuberantly fruity, this medium-bodied Riesling is packed to the rims with juicy Asian pear, tangerine and white peach flavors.

It’s a lavishly ripe, plumply textured sip balanced by zingy lemon-lime acidity and a cooling mineral fin-ish. Best now–2023. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $27

92 Fritz Haag 2019 Brauneberger Riesling Trocken J (Mosel). Spicy notes of sunbaked

clay and slate penetrate through sunny yellow peach and tangerine in this nuanced dry white. Equal parts fruit and earth bolstered against spine-tingling lime acidity, it’s a complex but thirst-quenching wine that should drink at peak through 2025 but hold longer as well. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

92 Ökonomierat Rebholz 2018 Birkweiler Vom Rotliegenden Riesling Trocken (Pfalz). Crisp

pineapple, lime and lemon extend from nose to fin-ish in this light-footed, laser-edged Riesling. Dry in style yet invigorating and zippy, it’s a refreshing contrast to increasingly voluptuous styles of dry German Riesling in riper vintages. Steely and long on the finish, it should continue to develop nicely through 2028. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $49

92 Schäfer-Fröhlich 2018 Riesling Trocken (Nahe). Lime zest and graphite introduce

this piercing, strikingly mineral dry Riesling. Pierc-ing acidity and tangs of slate and steel on the palate lend a firm, upright tone. An elegant, rather cerebral wine that should meld beautifully now–2024. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $27

92 Villa Wolf 2013 Wachenheimer Belz Library Release Dry Riesling (Pfalz). It’s still rare in

the U.S. for consumers to have access to dry, well-aged Riesling, and the library-release bottlings from Villa Wolf are both well-priced and high in quality. This full-bodied, deeply concentrated example is showing its secondary characteristics beautifully now. Smoky and intensely earthen yet still fresh in lemon and lime, it’s a stately, textural wine that should continue to develop well through 2030. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

91 Dr. Loosen 2019 Red Slate Dry Riesling (Mosel). Sunbaked slate and dusty earth

tones introduce this spry, spice-tinged Riesling. Dry and focused yet not at all stern in style, it offsets its mineral intensity with pristine lemon and white peach flavors. A thirst-quenching, elegant wine that’s best now–2024. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18

91 Fritz Haag 2019 Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Whiffs of plump white peach and pineapple

on the nose contrast the steely intensity of this totally dry, profoundly mineral Riesling. Focused and gorgeously angular in style, it’s a refreshingly svelte but concentrated expression of an intensely ripe vintage. A bit nervous in youth but should meld gorgeously through 2025. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $20

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91 Louis Guntrum 2018 Dry Riesling (Rheinhes-sen). When asked what minerality tastes like

in a wine, offering this dry, remarkably well-priced wine is the apt solution. From smoke and struck slate on the nose to an intriguingly spicy, crushed mineral palate, this easy-drinking but elegant sip is just what the doctor ordered. Full-bodied and silky, it’s at peak now–2024 but should hold further. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $20

91 Pfeffingen 2019 Dry Riesling (Pfalz). Whiffs of lime zest and crushed stone mingle with

crisp pineapple and grapefruit in this silky, textured dry Riesling. It’s zippy and spry but delightfully mouthfilling, too, finishing long on tart white melon and lemongrass notes. An easy-drinking but elegant white that appeals broadly, it should be at peak now–2023. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $20

91 Robert Weil 2019 Riesling Trocken (Rhein-gau). Fully dry yet slim in profile, this sleek,

penetrating Riesling offers elegance beyond its easy price point. Kissed by sprays of white blossom and piercing grapefruit flavor, it’s a thirst-quenching, zesty white best enjoyed now–2024. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $20

91 Von Buhl 2018 Bone Dry Riesling (Pfalz). Aro-mas of tart greengage plum and lime blos-

soms meld into grapefruit and lemon on the palate of this dry, medium-bodied white. Deeply extracted and fringed by a whisper of tea tannin, it’s a sol-idly structured Riesling that could accompany even heartier dishes like pork or beef with ease. Ready now but should drink well through 2023. The Ger-man Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $21

91 Wittmann 2019 Estate Riesling Trocken (Rhe-inhessen). Dry in style and light as a feather,

this perfumed Riesling wafts of orange blossoms and lime zest. Racy acidity is offset by mouthwater-ing grapefruit and white peach flavors on the palate. A fantastic entry-level offering from a consistently outstanding producer that’s at peak now–2023 but likely to hold further still. Loosen Bros. USA. Edi-tors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $20

90 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Dry Ries-ling (Mosel). For full review see page 16.

abv: 12% Price: $17

90 Dr. Loosen 2019 Dr. L Dry Riesling (Mosel). For full review see page 20. Best Buy.

abv: 12% Price: $12

90 Wittmann 2019 100 Hills Dry Riesling (Rheinhessen). Spicy, dusty mineral notes

introduce this very spry, lemon-lime sip. Dry and slim in profile, it’s a refreshingly zippy expression of Riesling from a ripe, rather voluptuous vintage.

Drinks well now but should hold well through 2025. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $16

89 Gryphon Crest 2017 Dry Riesling (Rheinhes-sen). Brisk tangs of lime and pineapple lend

zest to this light-footed dry Riesling. Intently min-eral on the palate, it’s a subtle yet thirst-quenching white that’s ideal as an aperitif or party wine. Best now–2022. This cuvée is also labeled under the Hooked brand. The German Wine Collection. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $14

89 Hooked 2017 Dry Riesling (Rheinhessen). Brisk tangs of lime and pineapple lend zest

to this light-footed dry Riesling. Intently mineral on the palate, it’s a subtle yet thirst-quenching white that’s ideal as an aperitif or party wine. Best now–2022. This cuvée is also labeled under the Gryphon Crest brand. The German Wine Collection. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $14

89 Ökonomierat Rebholz 2018 Riesling Trocken (Pfalz). Notes of lemon, lime and goose-

berry lend bristling freshness to this dry, medium-bodied Riesling. Steely and bracing on the palate, it’s a savory, slightly smoky sip that’s marked by a fringe of bitters on the finish. Ready now but should drink well through 2024. The German Wine Collec-tion. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

89 Peter Nicolay 2019 Ürziger Würzgarten Dry Riesling (Mosel). Smoky spice and bright

tropical fruit introduce this succulent yet spine-tingling dry white. It’s a briskly concentrated, racy sip with a lingering tangerine finish. Best enjoyed now–2024. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Villa Huesgen 2019 By The Glass Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Cooling tones of fresh

mint and green melon rind introduce this slim, pure-fruited dry Riesling. Exceptionally light on its feet and racy in style, it’s a lime-inflected white that’s ideal as an accompaniment to anything from sushi to roast chicken. Best now–2024. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $16

89 Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2018 Vom Kalk Niersteiner Riesling Trocken-Dry

Kabinett (Rheinhessen). Bright yellow peach and nectarine flavors are edged by chalky, dusty mineral tones in this fresh-fruited yet deeply earthen wine. Dry and full-bodied yet steely and focused, it fin-ishes on a fringe of spice. Best now–2023. Winesell-ers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Peter Nicolay 2019 Dry Riesling (Mosel). Yellow peach and nectarine flavors are lip-

smacking and zesty in this bright-fruited but dry white. At peak now–2023, it’s an easy-drinking,

briskly balanced Riesling that’s likely to please a diverse crowd. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $NA

RIESLING KABINETT

93 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Bernkasteler Alte Badstube Am Doctorberg Riesling Kabinett

(Mosel). Preserved yellow peach and pineapple mingle with smoke and flint in this rich, powerful off-dry Riesling. Reflective of a blockbuster vintage, it’s unusually robust in extraction and density for a Kabinett but a hedonistic, profoundly tropical sip with a cheery, elegantly candied finish. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $27

92 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Graacher Himmel-reich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Luscious

in texture and voluminous on the palate, this pro-foundly ripe off-dry Riesling offers juicy lemon and lime flavors edged by plumes of green floral perfume. It’s a rich expression of Kabinett, but a zippy spine of acidity lends balance and leads a long, stony fin-ish. At peak now–2025. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $23

92 Maximin Grünhäuser 2019 Herrenberg Ries-ling Kabinett (Mosel). Hibiscus nectar

and lime blossoms perfume this beautifully pure-fruited, feather-light Kabinett. It’s delectably off-dry, balancing pert lemon acidity against pristine honeydew and white peach flavors. Piercing and steely on the finish, it’s at peak now–2025 but will hold much longer. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $34

92 Willems-Willems 2018 Saar Riesling Kabi-nett Oberemmel Altenberg (Mosel). Just

one whiff of this smoky, salty Kabinett places you in the Saar. Exceptionally light on its feet and pul-sating with flavors of zippy lime, grapefruit and green apple, it’s a slim yet penetrating little Riesling that’s particularly delicious young but concentrated enough to hold for years to come. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $24

91 Bollig-Lehnert 2019 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Shades of slate and

sunbaked earth permeate into pink grapefruit and guava in this piercing ballerina-like Kabinett. Laced with sweet nectar and backed by a firm undertone of acidity and steel, it’s a laser-edged white that finishes on a long, intensely mineral crush. Irresist-ible in youth but concentrated enough to drink well through 2025, at least. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $18

91 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Hints

of yellow peach and cut stone are delicate on the nose but amass power and concentration on the palate. Sumptuously off-dry, it’s a honeyed, nec-tar-like sip that’s packed with juicy nectarine and tangerine flavors framed by a zesty spine of acidity.

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Penetrating through a long finish, it should drink at peak through 2025 and hold further still. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $25

91 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Bernkasteler Bad-stube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Juicy pine-

apple and crystalline mineral tones abound in this profoundly ripe but briskly balanced Kabinett. Off-dry and delightfully salty on the finish, it’s an easy-drinking yet elegant, linear sip anchored by a back-bone of steel. Ready now but should drink at peak through 2025. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $20

91 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Wehlener Son-nenuhr Riesling Kabinett Mosel). Passion fruit

and guava flavors are slicked with honey and lime in this penetrating off-dry Riesling. It’s a powerfully fruity sip countered by a bold spine of acidity. A bit nervous in youth, it should meld and improve over the next few years. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $27

91 Peter Nicolay 2019 Bernkastel Badstube Ries-ling Kabinett (Mosel). This is a delightfully

spine-tingling off-dry Riesling that jolts the senses awake with piercing flavors of honeydew nectar, lime and crushed slate. It’s exuberant and juicy but complex and intensely mineral, too, finishing long on a Margarita-like kiss of salt and lime sorbet. Gor-geous in youth but concentrated enough to drink at peak through 2025 and hold longer still. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $NA

91 Ulrich Langguth 2019 Piesporter Günterslay Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Pert, cutting notes

of lime zest and green apple are dusted with salt and slate in this bracing, classically Mosel Riesling. An electric shade of off-dry, it’s a zappy lemon-lime sip marked by piercing acidity and a lingering, delicate sweetness. Delicious now but should drink well through 2025, at least. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $21

90 Dr. Hermann 2019 Ürziger Würzgarten Ries-ling Kabinett (Mosel). Sourced from the

famed Würzgarten, or spice garden, there’s an spicy, smoky sheen that lends an earthen backdrop to this lip-smacking sip. Kissed by honeysuckle nectar, it’s delectably off-dry but racy, with acidity, too. The finish is long and marked by piercing yellow peach and apricot flavors. At peak now–2025 but should hold further. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $27

90 Mönchhof 2018 Ürzig Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). A crush of stony mineral

notes introduces this spry, thirst-quenching Ries-ling. Off-dry in style, it’s packed with juicy lime and lemon flavors accented by veins of smoke and struck flint. Ready now but should drink at peak through 2024. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $27

90 Villa Huesgen 2019 Riesling Kabinett Fein-herb (Mosel). In true feinherb style, there’s

barely any perceptible residual sugar in this zingy lightsaber of a Riesling. Zippy streaks of lime, lemon and grapefruit invigorate the senses and leave a long, steely finish. Quite delightful young but should hold through 2023. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $18

88 Weingut Albert Gessinger 2018 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben

(Mosel). Crisp honeydew and lime notes are etched by hints of bee pollen and caramelized sugar in this delicately sweet Riesling. It’s a juicy, thirst-quench-ing sip with bright acidity and a pleasant murmur of bitters on the finish. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $24

RIESLING SPÄTLESE

94 Dr. Hermann 2018 Erdener Herzlei Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben (Mosel). Slicks of honey

and yellow peach are dusted by slate and scorched earth in this profoundly concentrated Spätlese. It’s light as a feather but packed with powerful, pulsat-ing tangerine and orchard-fruit flavors and held upright by a zippy spine of acidity. An exhilarating, intensely fruity wine now but should continue to develop complexity for decades. Broadbent Selec-tions, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $50

93 Bastgen 2018 Paulinshofberg Riesling Spät-lese (Mosel). Spicy notes of struck flint and

slate lend earthen complexity to ripe, richly concen-trated pineapple and yellow peach flavors. Light-bodied but laser-edged in focus, it’s a racy, semi-sweet Riesling that awakens the palate and leaves a long, steely finish. Enjoyable already but should evolve beautifully for decades. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $35

93 Fritz Haag 2019 Brauneberger Juffer Ries-ling Spätlese (Mosel). A crush of salty, slaty

minerals peppers pristine white peach and pink grapefruit flavors in this luminous medium-sweet Riesling. It’s a deftly balanced sip, calibrating glori-ous fruit flavors against spine-tingling, steely acid-ity. Irresistible in youth but likely to develop well for at least a decade and hold further still. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $34/500 ml

93 Weller-Lehnert 2019 Piesporter Goldtröp-fchen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Sun-

drenched passion fruit and mango abound from nose to finish in this gloriously tropical sip. While ballerina-like in structure, it packs a powerful punch of juicy, intensely concentrated fruit backed by a steely, spine-tingling frame of acidity. Hard to resist now for its fruity exuberance but should hold much longer. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $31

92 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Ber-nkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Ries-

ling Spätlese (Mosel). For full review see page 10. abv: 8% Price: $30

92 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Bernkasteler Bad-stube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Subtle

aromas of honeydew and lime gain a tropical flair on the palate of this juicy, profoundly fruity sweet Riesling. Light-bodied but richly extracted in guava, mango and tangerine flavors, it’s a juicy wine that’s delightful young but structured enough to develop complexity for another decade at least. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $26

92 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Wehlener Son-nenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Tropical

flavors abound throughout this producer’s lineup of 2019 Spätlese, but piercing flavors of guava, pink grapefruit and mango make this bottling particu-larly exuberant. It’s profoundly ripe and succulent in sweetness but balanced neatly by crisp tangerine acidity and a clean, mineral finish. At peak now–2025 but should hold much further. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $28

92 Mönchhof 2018 Slate Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Struck slate and petrichor intro-

duce this unmistakably Mosel Riesling. Pineapple and white peach flavors are profoundly ripe, sweet-ening the palate with streaks of honey and nectar, but it’s a balanced, reverberating sip that finishes on staccato notes of acidity and steel. At peak now–2025. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $32

92 Peter Nicolay 2019 Bernkastel Badstube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). A touch of pollen

lends complexity to pure, pristine lime, guava and grapefruit in this jubilant, fruit-focused Riesling. Medium-sweet and spry on the palate, it’s a juicy, deeply concentrated wine that should drink at peak through 2030 and hold further still. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $NA

92 Weingut Albert Gessinger 2018 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Josefberg Old

Vines (Mosel). Ripe honeydew and white peach flavors penetrate this rich, intensely concentrated Spätlese. It’s sumptuously sweet and weighty on the palate yet balanced by zippy lime acidity and a lingering spray of crushed stones. Just reaching peak now, it should drink well for a decade to come. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $37

91 Bollig-Lehnert 2019 Piesporter Goldtröpf-chen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Delicate but

perfumed, this deft, sprightly Riesling offers rich, concentrated pink grapefruit and white peach fla-vors etched by lime and steel. It’s a juicy, thirst-quenching wine that’s gobs of fun to drink young

WINEMAG.COM | 109

but should continue to drink beautifully through 2029. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $22

91 Dr. Leimbrock 2018 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (Mosel). Lime zest

and green apples perfume this zesty, green-fruited sip. Properly feinherb in style, there’s just a whisper of sweetness glazing the palate like lace against a backdrop of pristine, spine-tingling gooseberry and grapefruit flavor. An energizing wine that’s delicious now but should hold well through 2024. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $35

91 Ulrich Langguth 2019 Piesporter Günterslay Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). The nose is quite

subtle on this smoky, laser-edged Riesling, but the palate pierces with pristine pineapple and grape-fruit flavors. It’s a featherweight, semisweet white that balances lacy sweetness against zippy streaks of lime and lemon acidity. The finish lingers on tangs of slate and steel. Best now–2030 but should hold further. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $26

89 Heinz Eifel 2019 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). This is such a juicy, intensely fruity wine

packed with mouthwatering honeydew and mango flavors. Off-dry and a bit honeyed in style, it’s a light-bodied but luscious sip that drinks delight-fully young. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $14

89 Leonard Kreusch 2019 Piesporter Michels-berg Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). This is a

profoundly fruity, forward sip packed with tropical melon, orange and mango flavors. Subtle under-tones of earth and pollen along with sunny lemon acidity lend balance throughout. Best enjoyed now–2022 to enjoy its youthful exuberance. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $16

88 Kreuznacher 2019 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Subtle notes of

green melon rind and gooseberry on the nose gain a honeyed sweetness on the palate of this fresh, easy-drinking Riesling. Off-dry in style and balanced by cutting lime acidity, it’s a refreshing sip best enjoyed now–2023. Wein Bauer Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $14

87 Fritz Windisch 2018 Piesporter Goldtröpf-chen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Hints of pol-

len and dusty minerals lend an earthen undertone to unctuous pineapple and yellow peach flavors. Medium-sweet and zippy on the palate, it balances rich, slightly caramelized fruit tones against spine-tingling lime acidity. Best enjoyed now–2023. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $18

RIESLING AUSLESE

94 Fritz Haag 2019 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Intoxicating smells of pet-

richor, slate and smoke accent ripe honeydew and lemon. It’s a smoldering yet ballerina-like Auslese that undulates with sweet honey and nectar on the palate. A stunningly balanced expression of the Mosel from an exceptionally ripe vintage. Delight-ful already but should reward for decades to come. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $44

89 Heinz Eifel 2019 Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Whiffs of pineapple and white peach gain

power and concentration on the palate of this very juicy, fruity sip. It’s a plump, elegantly sweet Ries-ling balanced by a fresh mineral tone and piercing lemon-lime acidity. An approachable, refreshing style of Auslese at peak now–2025. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $15

OTHER RIESLING

93 Fritz Haag 2019 Brauneberger Juffer Ries-ling Feinherb (Mosel). The feinherb, or off-

dry designation, of this single-vineyard bottling appears only in small print on the back label here. When tasted blind, its residual sugar was almost imperceptible. What you get, rather, are ebullient, electric white peach and lemon-lime flavors collid-ing against a backdrop of crushed slate and earth. Medium-bodied and quite dry on the finish, it’s an irresistible, thirst-quenching sip that’s perfect young but likely to drink at peak through 2025 at least. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

91 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Single Vine-yard Wehlener Klosterberg Offdry Riesling

(Mosel). Exuberantly tropical notes of mango and papaya are offset by spice and crushed earth in this intensely fruity, exhilarating Riesling. It’s just a shade off-dry with just enough sweetness to balance out racy acidity. A highly quaffable, invigorating sip that’s at peak now–2025 but should hold longer still. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $20

91 Maximin Grünhäuser 2019 Monopol Ries-ling (Mosel). There’s barely any perceptible

residual sugar on the palate of this crisp, profoundly mineral Riesling. A well-priced bottling sourced entirely from the estate’s monopole single vineyard, it offers crisp, cutting notes of honeydew and green-gage plums dusted with slate and crushed earth. A uniquely zippy expression of a profoundly ripe vin-tage, it’s drinking beautifully young but should hold well through 2025. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $22

91 Mönchhof 2018 Riesling (Mosel). Swathes of freshly cut herb and crushed slate extend

from nose to palate in this exceptionally zippy,

green-fruited wine. Off-dry and racy on the palate, it’s a spine-tingling, lime-kissed sip that finishes with a tickle of effervescence. A joy to drink young but should hold well through 2024. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $27

91 Reinhold Haart 2018 Estate Medium Dry Ries-ling (Mosel). This is a smoldering, intensely

mineral wine studded with piercing lemon and grapefruit flavors. Spine-tingling acidity is coun-tered neatly by a delicate sheen of sweetness along with hints of pastry, cut stone and spice. Quite com-plex for such a value-priced wine, it should drink well through 2025 at least. The German Wine Col-lection. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $23

91 Zilliken 2019 Estate Riesling (Mosel). Glori-ously tropical yet etched by layers of slate,

earth and spice, this well-priced, delightfully easy-drinking sip is a fantastic introduction to Zilliken’s luminous, complex style. Just a shade off-dry, it bal-ances delicate sweetness against laser-light jolts of acidity and steel. Delightful now but concentrated enough to drink well through at least 2024. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $22

90 Dr. Hermann 2019 Dr. H Riesling (Mosel). Struck flint and honeydew introduce this

lip-smacking, fruity off-dry Riesling. It’s a juicy, thirst-quenching wine marked by pristine white grapefruit and yellow plum flavors but grounded by a firm undertone of minerality. Approachable yet refined, it should drink well through 2024. Broad-bent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $19

90 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2019 Riesling Feinherb (Mosel). Staccato

notes of caramelized honey and lime zest abound in this spine-tingling white. Just a hint off-dry in style, it’s a zippy, electric shock of steel and acidity softened by flavors of pristine lemon, white grape-fruit and green apple. A lovely sip to enjoy young. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $17

90 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Offdry Riesling (Mosel). Delicate hints of steel

and slate mingle with white blossom and peach on the nose of this seductive off-dry Riesling. Spine-tingling and pristinely fruity, it’s packed with sunny tangerine and grapefruit flavors etched by crys-talline minerality. A thirst-quenching wine best enjoyed young. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $17

90 Fritz Haag 2019 Riesling (Mosel). Fritz Haag’s value entry-level Riesling shares

the same smoky, seductive spice and earth tones of the producer’s more expensive single-vineyard bot-tlings, but with an immediately approachable fruiti-ness and zeal. Just a shade off-dry, it’s packed with thirst-quenching white grapefruit and peachy good-

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ness anchored by a firm, mineral undertone. Best now–2023. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $20

90 Maximin Grünhäuser 2019 Maximin Ries-ling (Mosel). Crisp green apples and white

blossoms perfume this luminously fresh, mouth-watering white sourced from a handful of vineyards in the Mosel-Ruwer region outside of the estate’s monopole. An ideal introduction to the zippy Maxi-min Grünhaus style, it’s a crowd-pleasing, lemon-lime sip that finishes with just a trace of balancing sweetness on the finish. Best now–2024. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $16

90 Weingut Karp-Schreiber 2019 My Karp Ries-ling Feinherb (Mosel). Layers of smoky,

dusty mineral and earth lend savory complexities to dazzling yellow cherry, peach and tangerine flavors in this ripe but zippy white. Approachably fruity yet focused and pure, it’s held upright by streaks of lime acidity and a firm, steely finish. Delicious young but should hold through 2024. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $16

90 Zilliken 2019 Butterfly Riesling (Mosel). Just a whisper of sweetness accents plump

white grapefruit and lime flavors in this almost-dry, lusciously textured Riesling. A blossomy, perfumed white held upright by brisk acidity and a long, stony finish, it’s at peak now–2024. Rudi Wiest Selec-tions. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $22

89 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2019 Blitz Ries-ling (Mosel). This is an intensely juicy

medium-dry Riesling bursting with sun-drenched honeydew, white peach and guava flavors. Light on its feet but richly concentrated in fruit, it’s a lip-smacking, zesty white that’s particularly appealing young. Miller Squared Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $11

89 Dr. Loosen 2019 Dr. L Riesling (Mosel). This is a joyously juicy, fruity off-dry Riesling

packed with sun-drenched yellow cherry and peach flavors. Fresh with lemon-lime acidity and feather-light on its feet, it’s an easy-drinking, revitalizing sip that rewards youthful drinking. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $12

89 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Erdener Treppchen Offdry Riesling (Mosel). The nose is subtle

and earthy, a contrast to ripe, sunny tangerine and pineapple flavors in this light-footed off-dry white. Piercing lime acidity and steely notes on the mid-palate accentuate it’s zesty, invigorating feel. Best enjoyed now–2024. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $28

89 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2019 Noble House Ries-ling (Mosel). In line with an exceptionally

ripe vintage, the 2019 Noble House is an exuber-antly tropical, fruit-forward sip packed with lus-cious mango, tangerine and guava flavors. Juicy and

concentrated, it’s a straightforward but hedonistic crowd-pleaser that begs to be enjoyed young. Wine-sellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $12

89 Gryphon Crest 2018 Riesling (Mosel). This is a pert, easy-drinking Riesling packed with

pristine yellow cherry and white peach flavors. It’s a fresh, fruity sip framed by spine-tingling acid-ity and an elegant rim of bitters on the finish. Best now–2023. This cuvée is also labeled under the Hooked brand. The German Wine Collection. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $14

89 Hansen-Lauer 2018 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling (Mosel). Crisp green apple and

grapefruit on the nose turn riper on the palate of this light-bodied but richly concentrated white. Off-dry and plush in fruit, it’s balanced neatly by zippy lime acidity. The finish is long and marked by a hint of dry earth. Best enjoyed young. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $25

89 Hooked 2018 Riesling (Mosel). This is a pert, easy-drinking Riesling packed with

pristine yellow cherry and white peach flavors. It’s a fresh, fruity sip framed by spine-tingling acid-ity and an elegant rim of bitters on the finish. Best now–2023. This cuvée is also labeled under the Gryphon Crest brand. The German Wine Collection. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $14

89 Raimund Prüm 2019 Essence Riesling (Mosel). For full review see page 21. Best


89 St. Urbans-Hof 2019 Nik Weis Urban Riesling (Mosel). For full review see page 21. Best


89 Ulrich Langguth 2019 Gourmet Riesling Fein-herb (Mosel). Just a whisper off-dry and

zippy on the palate, Gourmet is an apt name for this style of zesty, food-friendly Riesling. Quaffable and spry, it offers crisp flavors of green apple and honey-dew lifted by zesty lime acidity on the midpalate. At peak now but should hold well through 2023. Miller Squared Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $14

87 Schmitt Söhne 2019 Relax Riesling (Ger-many). While the nose is quiet, there’s loads

of easy, juicy white peach and grapefruit flavors in this straightforward medium-sweet Riesling. Sunny tangerine acidity and just a whiff of freshly laun-dered linen linger on the finish. Drink now. Delicato Family Wines. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $14

85 Leonard Kreusch 2019 Riesling (Mosel). While light in body, there’s a slightly trea-

cly nature to candied lemon and tangerine flavors.

Medium sweet in style but balanced by fresh acid-ity, it’s a straightforward, juicy sip best enjoyed young. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $13

85 Twisted River 2019 Bin 168 Riesling (Mosel). The nose is subtly earthen, but the palate

offers soft, juicy flavors of preserved yellow peach and tangerine. It’s a loosely knit, semi-dry Ries-ling that’s brightened by sunny lemon acidity. Best enjoyed young. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $13

PINOT BLANC

95 Ökonomierat Rebholz 2018 Im Sonnenschein GG Pinot Blanc (Pfalz). From nose to fin-

ish, there’s so much complexity to be found in this landmark German Pinot Blanc. It’s dry and silken in texture, with delicate pear and yellow apple flavors anchored by veins of smoky, crystalline minerality and racy lime acidity. A subtle, steely wine in youth that will develop greater power and intensity with time. Best 2023–2030. The German Wine Collec-tion. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $110

95 Wagner-Stempel 2018 Siefersheim Weiss-burgunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Stony

minerality extends from nose to palate, lending weight and gravitas to concentrated yellow peach and Mirabelle plum flavors. Sourced from volcanic soils of the Siefersheim vineyard, it’s an intensely ripe, voluptuous Pinot Blanc anchored by firm strikes of steel and smoke. While a bit nervous in youth, it should blossom gloriously from 2023 to 2030. The German Wine Collection. Cellar Selec-tion. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $38

92 Friedrich Becker 2018 Becker Family Pinot Blanc (Pfalz). Delicate notes of toast and

hazelnut accent bristling yellow apple and Meyer lemon flavors in this delightfully fresh, piercing white. Dry and steely yet plump on the palate, it’s remarkably well-priced for such a stately wine. Ready now but should drink well through 2024 at least. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

92 Ökonomierat Rebholz 2018 Dry Pinot Blanc (Pfalz). Cutting notes of green melon and

lime skin introduce this full-bodied but delightfully zippy Pinot Blanc. A well-priced, entry-level bot-tling from the grandmaster of German Pinot Blanc, it’s a supple, fresh-fruited sip backed by a racy backbone of acidity and a long, chalky finish. Ready now but should reward through 2024, at least. The German Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

92 Wagner-Stempel 2018 Gutswein Weissbur-gunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Wagner-

Stempel’s entry-level Pinot Blanc is a profoundly smoky, mineral sip. Apple, pear and lemon flavors are crisp and cutting, accented by zippy lime acidity

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and a firm, steely finish. A remarkably solid, weighty dry white that should drink well through 2025. The German Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $22

91 Lucashof 2019 Pinot Blanc Trocken (Pfalz). Freshly cut pear and white blossoms abound

in this light-bodied yet juicy white. Backed by zippy streaks of lemony acidity and a bristling mineral undertone, it’s a dry, invigorating Pinot Blanc that should please a wide audience. At peak now–2024 but can hold further. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $19

91 Maximin Grünhäuser 2019 Pinot Blanc (Mosel). Delicate hints of toast, green apple

and hazelnut skin introduce this dry, smoky Pinot Blanc. Light-bodied yet quite silky in texture, it offers concentrated pear and grapefruit flavors against a dramatic, smoldering backdrop. Freshly balanced and thirst-quenching, it’s a lovely wine to enjoy through 2027. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

91 Salwey 2018 Kabinett Weissburgunder Trocken (Baden). Wisps of smoke, lime

blossom and pear collide in this fresh-footed dry white. Green melon and apple flavors are pristine on the palate, edged by a fine filigree of cut stone and a zesty lemon acidity that lingers on the fin-ish. A refreshing, elegant wine that’s ready now but should hold through 2024. The German Wine Col-lection. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

91 Wittmann 2019 Weissburgunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Pinot Blanc can be a quiet,

subtle grape but Wittmann coaxes an abundance of crisp, vibrant pear and grapefruit flavors accented by toast and hazelnut here. Slim in profile and backed by a zesty mineral foundation, it’s a fresh-footed, lime-inflected sip that should drink beauti-fully through 2024. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

91 Willems-Willems 2018 Saar Weisser Burgunder Trocken (Mosel). Pretty white blossom and

lime perfume distinguishes this lithe Mosel Pinot Blanc from heftier, stonier expressions of the grape from the Pfalz or Rheinhessen. It’s a delightfully spry, feather-light sip that packs a punch of zesty lemon, green-apple and pear flavors. The finish is long and minty fresh. Best now–2023. The German Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

90 Villa Wolf 2019 Pinot Blanc (Pfalz). Pretty white blossom and peach notes perfume

this bang-for-your-buck Pinot Blanc. It’s an unusu-ally exuberant, fruit-forward expression of a typi-cally shy grape variety that should be enjoyed young but its pert acidity and concentrated flavors should hold well through 2023. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $12

90 Wittmann 2019 100 Hills Weissburgunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Dry and intently

steely, this light-bodied, electric white offers zesty pear and lemon flavors etched by flint and slate. It’s a refreshing, zingy sip that’s best enjoyed young but will hold through 2024. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

PINOT GRIS

91 Friedrich Becker 2018 Becker Family Pinot Gris (Pfalz). Pinot Gris (aka Pinot Grigio) is

a pink-hued grape and this pretty, coppery-pink wine tiptoes the line between a white and rosé wine. Macerated on its skins for 12–18 hours, it offers concentrated raspberry and red apple flavors against a backdrop of citrusy acidity and a clean mineral tang. Dry and delightfully refreshing, it’s a fantastic year-round accompaniment to everything from fish to game. The German Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $24

91 Salwey 2018 Kabinett Dry Pinot Gris (Baden). Hints of smoke and cashew accent zippy

lemon, apple and grapefruit flavors in this dry, medium-bodied white. Fresh-fruited yet anchored by a firm mineral undertone, it’s a vibrant, juicy wine that’s substantial enough to drink well through 2024. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

89 Villa Wolf 2019 Pinot Gris (Pfalz). Grape-fruit, pear and pineapple notes gain power

from nose to finish in this fresh, fruity white. Dry and medium-bodied in style, it’s a thirst-quenching, delicately saline sip with an easy yet elegant appeal. Best now–2023. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

GEWÜRZTRAMINER

90 Villa Wolf 2019 Gewürztraminer (Pfalz). For full review see page 21. Best Buy.

abv: 12% Price: $12

88 Fitz-Ritter 2019 Dürkheimer Abtsfronhof Spätlese Gewürztraminer (Pfalz). Heady

plumes of jasmine blossom and musk perfume this sprightly semisweet Gewürztraminer. Light-bodied but concentrated in lychee and white peach flavors, it’s a juicy, easy-drinking sip rimmed by a murmur of tea tannins on the finish. At peak now–2024. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $24

86 Sun Garden 2018 Gewürztraminer (Pfalz). Notes of pink grapefruit and lemon candy

mark this light-bodied, delicately sweet white. Moderate in concentration, it’s an easy-drinking, fruity sip that’s best enjoyed young. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $11

OTHER WHITE WINES

95 Friedrich Becker 2016 Mineral Chardonnay (Pfalz). Smoky tones of struck flint and

toast linger from nose to finish in this gorgeously steely Chardonnay. Moderately full-bodied yet piercing and focused, it’s marked by zesty flavors of green apple and lemon etched by streaks of lime and chalk. Tasted in late 2020, it’s a bit nervous in youth but should be at peak from 2023–2030 and hold longer still. The German Wine Collection. Cel-lar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $97

91 Hans Wirsching 2019 Silvaner Trocken (Fran-ken). This is such a perfumed, fresh-fruited

sip packed with pristine honeydew and lemon fla-vors. Dry and light on its feet, it’s a wonderfully thirst-quenching white with a long, intensely min-eral finish. A fantastic value for an elegant wine with wide appeal. Best now–2024. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

91 Pflüger 2020 Quarzit Sauvignon Blanc Trocken (Pfalz). Gorgeously tropical notes

of guava and passion fruit are etched by veins of jalapeño and lime in this delightfully fruity, spicy white. While light in body and slim in mouthfeel, it’s a penetrating, sharply edged Sauvignon Blanc that’s irresistible young. Valckenberg International, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $23

91 Pfeffingen 2018 Dry Scheurebe (Pfalz). Scheurebe is such a woefully underappreci-

ated grape and this jubilantly fruity, floral white is such a head turner. Lychee, pink grapefruit and grape gummy candies burst from nose to finish here. Dry in style and vibrantly balanced, it’s a conver-sation starter of a wine that should delight a wide audience. Best enjoyed young. The German Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

90 Dr. Heyden 2019 Old Vines Silvaner (Rhein-hessen). Whiffs of violet petal and lychee

lend exotic perfume to this dry but very fruity Sil-vaner. It’s a juicy, mouthwatering white marked by tropical melon and peach flavors and finishing elegantly on a rim of tea tannins. An unusual bang-for-your-buck introduction to an underappreciated yet multifaceted grape variety. Best enjoyed young. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 Fritz Windisch 2014 Mainzer St. Alban Scheurebe Kabinett (Rheinhessen). Crisp

green apple and honeydew are offset by an intensely earthen minerality. Feather-light yet ripe in fruit concentration, it’s an easy-drinking semi-dry sip with a lingering, savory undertone. Drink soon. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $13

BUYINGGUIDE


86 Leonard Kreusch 2019 Weinkellerei Kreusch Spätlese (Rheinhessen). Grapefruit, pine-

apple and peach are juicy and forward in this alpha-bet-soup blend of Faberrebe, Silvaner, Bacchus, Kerner and Huxelrebe grapes. Medium-sweet and balanced by bright tangerine acidity, it’s an easy-drinking, straightforward sip that’s best enjoyed young. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $15

ROSÉS

91 Ökonomierat Rebholz 2019 Spätburgunder Trocken Rosé (Pfalz). Dusty pink in hue, this

cutting, mineral rosé offers brisk sour cherry and raspberry flavors edged by shards of cut slate and earth. It’s a racy, especially light-bodied sip with a bracing, juicy finish. The German Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $29

91 Schäfer 2019 Made With Organic Grapes Dry Rosé (Rheinhessen). Black cherry candy and

rose petals perfume this svelte but deeply concen-trated Pinot Noir rosé. Bone-dry yet plump, it’s a juicy, thirst-quenching sip packed with black plum and berry flavors etched by a smoky minerality. A solid evergreen rosé that should drink beautifully year-round. Winesellers, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $14

90 Von Buhl 2019 Bone Dry Rosé (Pfalz). This is a zippy, delightfully raspberry-scented

Pinot Noir rosé. Bone-dry yet deeply concentrated, with ripe, juicy blackberry and cherry flavors, it’s a firmly structured sip that can stand up to colder weather and sturdier fare like game or salmon. Finishes long on delicate tea tannins and a kiss of smoky spice. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $21

LEMBERGER

90 Schnaitmann 2017 Steinwiege Dry Lem-berger (Württemberg). Smoky notes of

graphite and incense accent crisp blackberry and plum in this light-footed, spice-inflected Lemberger. It’s a brisk, fresh, concentrated red backed by pert red currant acidity and very fine, feathery tannins. Ready now but should drink at peak through 2027. The German Wine Collection. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $37

PINOT NOIR

94 Meyer-Näkel 2018 Pinot Noir (Ahr). An exhilarating mineral crush extends from

nose to palate, lending freshness to profoundly ripe flavors of black plum and currant. Full-bodied yet spry and lifted, it’s a piercing, deeply concentrated Pinot Noir edged by hints of earth, smoke and violet florals. The finish is long and ruffled by fine, furry tannins. Welcoming in youth but structured enough

to improve through 2030. The German Wine Col-lection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

92 Schnaitmann 2017 Steinwiege Pinot Noir (Württemberg). Violet, fur and spicy notes

of plum and black cherry compote collide in this decadently perfumed Pinot Noir. While light in body, it’s a penetrating, intensely fruity red held upright by zesty cranberry acidity and very fine, feathery tannins. Ready now but should drink at peak through 2027 and hold longer still. The Ger-man Wine Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

90 Dr. Heyden 2018 Oppenheimer Unfiltered Pinot Noir (Rheinhessen). A hint of incense

lends sex appeal to pristine blackberry and black cherry flavors in this full-bodied but spry red. Freshly concentrated and invigorating in fruit pro-file, it’s a crisp, easy-drinking Pinot that’s especially appealing in youth. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $18

90 Villa Wolf 2018 Pinot Noir (Pfalz). Burnt caramel, violet candy and freshly dug beets

scent this boldly perfumed Pinot Noir. It’s an easy-drinking, crisply concentrated red marked by pert red cherry and plum flavors edged by delicate char and smoke. Solidly made and priced quite reason-ably, it’s a super find that’s best enjoyed now–2024. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

GREECEASSYRTIKO

94 Gaia Wines 2018 Wild Ferment Assyrtiko (Santorini). The aromas are clean and cit-

ric, with a spin of crushed herbs and sea salt. On the palate, the wine is both complex and refreshing, with lemon-lime, saline and spice flavors dancing on the tongue. The finish is a combination of match-stick smoke and citrus. Craft+Estate–Winebow. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

92 Greek Wine Cellars 2019 Flowers Assyrtiko (Santorini). For full review see page 11.

abv: 13% Price: $27

92 Skouras 2019 Wild Ferment Assyrtiko (Pelo-ponnese). The nose on this wild-ferment

white is elegant, with wet stone, smoke and crushed herb aromas. On the palate, it’s complex but focused, with a balance of lively fruit, minerality and spice. Diamond Importers Inc. Editors’ Choice. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $18

92 Wine Art Estate 2019 Plano Assyrtiko (Drama). For full review see page 12.

abv: 13% Price: $25

91 Alexakis 2019 Assyrtiko (Crete). Citrus and mineral aromas are followed by savory, saline

smoke and tropical fruit flavors on the palate. The wine ends with an intriguing wave of smoke. Dia-mond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

91 Mylonas 2019 Assyrtiko (Attica). This intriguing white offers aromas of tropical

fruit, herbs and white flowers, and a full-bodied but springy array of lime and herbs. The wine has an appealing creaminess but still maintains an elegant poise. The finish is lingering with a clean, salty spin. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $17

91 Zacharias 2019 Assyrtiko (Peloponnese). A nose of citrus, powder and salt starts this

pale white from Greece. On the palate, it’s viscous but tart, with juicy citrus fruit and a mineral back-bone. Elegant but surprising, with a tasty sea salt finish. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $15

90 Domaine Papagiannakos 2019 Assyrtiko (Attica). This Assyrtiko starts with mouth-

watering lime, orange and tropical fruit aromas, fol-lowed by bright white fruit flavors and zippy acid-ity. The wine has texture and complexity—and great aging potential. Winebow. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

90 Gavalas 2019 Dry Assyrtiko (Santorini). Juicy fruit and citrus aromas start this

elegant white. The wine is a combination of full-bodied tropical fruit and sea salt austerity. It fin-ishes elegant and clean, with a spin of white pepper. Dionysos Imports Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

88 Tsantali 2019 Klima Klima Organic Assyrtiko (Halkidiki). This organic Assyrtiko starts

with pert and focused citrus and salt aromas, and on the palate offers a crisp and lively combination of citrus, tropical fruit and flowers. The wine finishes clean and crisp. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Kir-Yianni 2018 Vin de Haute Altitude Assyr-tiko (Florina). An intriguing and herbaceous

nose married with bright fruit and mineral flavors gives this wine balance and versatility. Easy-drink-ing and fresh, it could age for three to five more years. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Vassaltis 2018 Assyrtiko (Santorini). This full-bodied, assertive Assyrtiko offers a nose

of citrus fruit, spice and sea salt, plus white fruit flavors that are generous and friendly. Its crowd-pleasing style makes it a good introduction to the variety. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

87 Wine Art Estate 2018 Idisma Drios Assyrtiko (Drama). Lemon, spice and vanilla start this

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white from mainland Greece. It offers full-bodied, richer flavors of vanilla and toasted nut, mingled with tropical fruit. R&R Selections LLC. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

MOSCHOFILERO

93 Skouras 2019 George Skouras Moschofilero (Arcadia). This Moschofilero starts with

a rich, fragrant nose of jasmine and rose, but its flavors are poised and pert in style, with a spin of bone-dry acid framing its refined citrus and spice flavors. A beautiful example of the variety’s versa-tility and character. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 12% Price: $18

90 Skouras 2018 Salto Wild Yeast Moschofilero (Peloponnese). Lemon-lime aromas with a

slight hint of herbs and toast start this elegant and intriguing wild yeast white. The wine offers a lovely balance of chalky minerality and fresh fruit, fin-ished by an earthy wave of savory herbs. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $21

90 Zacharias 2019 Moschofilero (Pelopon-nese). Delicate aromas of rose petal, peach

and citrus start this refined rosé. The wine offers a delicious blend of crisp acidity and stone fruit flavors, with a soft spin of spice on finish. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Nikolaou 2018 Organic Vineyards Moschofi-lero (Peloponnese). The wine starts with an

aromatic combination of herbal spice and lemon-orange zing, followed by savory, mouthwatering minerals and peach fruit. Its finish is fruity and fresh. Vitis Vinifera Inc. —S.K. abv: 12% Price: $16

WHITE BLENDS

90 Tsantali 2019 Abaton Athiri-Assyrtiko (Mount Athos). This classic white blend

offers smoke, spice, flint and herbs on the nose, with a touch of citrus lift. On the palate, it’s herbaceous but pert, with sea salt, pepper, spice and lemon fla-vors. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Nasiakos 2019 White (Mantinia). Pretty flo-ral and citrus aromas give this white blend

immediate appeal. On the palate, it’s fruity with a nice zap of acidity throughout. The wine is easy to drink and offers a delicate balance of minerals and fleshier flavor. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. abv: 12% Price: $18

87 Santo Wines 2018 ASPA Volcanic Terroir White (Santorini). This white blend offers

an intriguing nose of citrus spice, matchstick and flowers, followed by vanilla spice, smoke, herbs and

lemon fruit. Its finish is minerally and clean. Dia-mond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $28

ROSÉS

92 Domaine Papagiannakos 2019 Granatus Rosé (Attica). Beautiful aromas of zesty cit-

rus and red berries lead into a lively and elegant mix of spice, mineral and fruit. The wine finishes with sea salt and citrus rind. Winebow. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $22

92 Wine Art Estate 2019 Pink Bang Rosé (Drama). For full review see page 12.

abv: 12.5% Price: $36

90 Gaia Wines 2019 14-18h Agiorgitiko Rosé (Peloponnese). Savory and fruity aromas

are followed by mouthwatering, spicy strawberry and vanilla flavors. The wine has a an herbal touch that gives it weigh and complexity. The finish is long and full of spice. Craft+Estate–Winebow. —S.K. abv: 12% Price: $16

90 Zacharias 2019 St. George Rosé (Pelopon-nese). Poised, flinty, fresh and spicy, this

wine starts with strawberry, raspberry and rhubarb aromas, followed by pert cherry flavors and a spicy finish. This is an interesting and successful mar-riage of juicy but dry complexity. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. Best Buy. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $15

89 Palivou 2019 Vissino Rosé (Peloponnese). Full-bodied with a tart and tangy back pal-

ate, this wine offers raspberry, juicy watermelon and spice flavors. Pair this pour with cheeses and dried meats. R&R Selections LLC. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Palivou 2019 La Vie en Rose Moschofilero Dry Rosé (Peloponnese). This wine offers fleshy

white fruit, spice and sea salt on the nose. The wine’s character is earthy, with herbs and a touch of smokiness mingling with fresh-fruit flavors. It’s unique and food-driven overall. R&R Selections LLC. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

87 La Tour Melas 2019 Idylle d’Achinos Rosé (Greece). Pretty strawberry and mineral aro-

mas lead into zesty flavors of citrus peel, herbs and fresh red fruits. Assertive and approachable, with a clean, mineral finish. Dionysos Imports Inc. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

87 Mylonas 2019 Rosé (Attica). Luscious aro-mas of tropical fruits, herbs and red ber-

ries start this elegant rosé. Its flavors are light and bright, with a clean line of acidity throughout. Dia-mond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Skouras 2019 Peplo Rosé (Peloponnese). Sweet berry aromas are followed by flavors

of strawberry and pink grapefruit in this likable rosé. Pert and pretty, this is a great patio wine for the summer. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

86 Tsantali 2019 Kanenas Mavroudi-Syrah Rosé (Greece). The wine offers aromas of forest

berries, vanilla and spice, followed by straight-forward strawberry and spice flavors. Velvety and smooth, as well as easy-drinking. Perfect for the patio. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

AGIORGITIKO

92 Greek Wine Cellars 2018 Flowers Agiorgitiko (Nemea). For full review see page 19. Best


90 Greek Wine Cellars 2018 Kouros Agiorgitiko (Nemea). For full review see page 20. Best


89 Skouras 2017 Saint George Agiorgitiko (Nemea). This volcanic-soil pour starts

with pronounced, fresh, black cherry and plum aromas. The wine has smooth tannins, flavors of smoke, cherry and spice, and a zippy, mineral-heavy finish. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Gaia Wines 2018 Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Aro-mas of red berry, olive and spice lead into

bright cherry, raspberry and plum flavors. The wine is generous and fun, with a clean, fresh finish. Craft+Estate–Winebow. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $23

87 Zacharias 2018 Agiorgitiko (Nemea). Aro-mas of anise, cherry, dried herbs and savory

meats lead into flavors of sweet tobacco, pepper, red cherry and vanilla in this lively red. The wine has some power, so pair it with a hearty lamb or beef dish to bring out the best of its flavors. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $15

XINOMAVRO

93 Tsantali 2017 Xinomavro (Naoussa). Straw-berry, mineral and warming spice on the

nose are followed by cherry jam fruit and grippy tannins in this delicious, poised red. The wine fin-ishes long and spicy with an excellent acidity-fruit balance. Save this one for the cellar for optimum enjoyment. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

92 Kir-Yianni 2016 Diaporos Single Vineyard Xinomavro (Imathia). Pretty aromas of vio-

let and warming spice mingle with tomato, cherry and earthy olive. The wine is elegant and integrated with vanilla, red cherry, tobacco and cinnamon fla-

BUYINGGUIDE


vors. Gentle tannins and approachable poise make it an excellent introduction to agreeable Greek reds. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $58

89 Kir-Yianni 2017 Cuveé Villages Xinomavro (Naoussa). Aromas of clove, cinnamon and

cola are followed by flavors of earth, red berries and smoke on this elegant red. The wine offers bright-ness as well as depth, with leather, herbs and black pepper balancing the fruit. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $18

88 Kir-Yianni 2016 Ramnista Single Vineyard Xinomavro (Naoussa). Aromas of forest

berries, cedar, pepper and tomato are followed by sweet cedar and red fruit flavors. The wine offers grippy tannins and a smoky, tobacco finish. Dia-mond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

87 Kir-Yianni 2016 Kali Riza Vieilles Vignes Xino-mavro (Amyndeon). Fig, olive and red cherry

aromas give this wine an enticing start. On the pal-ate, tomato paste, olive and black cherry flavors are luscious but bright. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

OTHER RED WINES

89 Tsantali 2017 Klima Klima Organic Caber-net Sauvignon (Halkidiki). This wine starts

with aromas of plum, dried cherry and spice. It offers rich flavors of blackberry, warming spice and a touch of mineral zing. Its full-bodied style calls for a bigger dish. Think grilled beef or game. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 Zacharias 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Greece). This focused but fruity Cabernet

starts with aromas of cherry and raspberry, fol-lowed by fresh, bright red fruit flavors. Tobacco, vanilla and cedar give it some gravitas. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Amalagos 2018 Plóes Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Drama). Aromas of strawberry, dark

chocolate and cinnamon start this easy-drinking Cabernet-Merlot blend. Plush tannins and flavors of blueberry, cherry, smoke, soft spice and plum give it widespread appeal. Nestor Imports. —S.K. abv: 14% Price: $14

GLOBALWHITE WINE

84 Maiden + Liberty 2017 French-American Blend No. 2. Julia’s Sauvignon Blend

(Global). This global blend is made from 83% Sau-vignon Blanc sourced from New York’s North Fork and 17% Vermentino from the Languedoc in France.

Aromas of ripe pineapple, lemon and kerosene lead to the rounded, juicy palate. The fruit gets a bit muddled, not showing much definition or purity, but there’s decent lift from bright acidity. Maiden + Liberty. —A.P. abv: 12.8% Price: $20

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

95 Penfolds 2018 Bin 149 Cabernet Sauvignon (Global). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14.7% Price: $149

95 Penfolds 2018 Quantum Bin 98 Cabernet Sauvignon (Global). For full review see page

5. abv: 14.7% Price: $700

WINEMAG.COM | 115

Just a few years ago, Irish whiskey was seen as relatively homogenous. It was billed as fruity, grassy, fresh as a bouquet of wild-flowers and usually more affordable than

counterparts from Scotland.Fast-forward to today, and the category is

much more diverse. Prices have inched higher, with premium bottles more prevalent, and fla-vor profiles have broadened. Some are rich and spiced or extravagantly Sherried to the point of displaying fruitcake fla-vors. Others offer robust, smoky characteristics that would satisfy those who love peated Scotch. And like brethren in Scotland and America, Irish whiskeys sport an ever- widening variety of cask finishes. Bourbon and Sherry casks are common, but unusual options like stout, Calvados and Marsala can also be found.

All this change makes sense against the backdrop of growth among Ireland’s distilling industry, which was driven in part by a world-wide whiskey boom and the success of legacy brand Jameson.

In just a decade, the industry surged from a mere four distilleries in 2010 to 38 operational facilities by November 2020, according to a December report by the trade group Drinks Ire-land/Irish Whiskey Association. Each of these distilleries is seeking to distinguish itself and the spirits it produces.

According to the report, the U.S. is by far the largest market for Irish whis-key, accounting for 42% of all sales in 2019, up from 28% in 2010. This increase was driven by use in cocktails and inter-est in high-end, premium bot-tlings. Furthermore, sales of Irish whiskey in the U.S. could surpass those of Scotch over the next decade, the report pre-

dicts. If that indeed comes to pass, it would be the first time that has happened since before the 1920s.

More—and more diverse—Irish whiskey in the glasses of American consumers? Now that’s something to celebrate.

Sláinte! —Kara Newman

The Irish whiskey boom

Sales of Irish whiskey in the U.S.

could surpass those of Scotch over the

next decade.

98 Bushmills The Rare Casks 28 Years Limited Release No. 01 Cognac Cask Irish Whiskey

(Ireland; Proximo Spirits, Jersey City, NJ). For full review see page 22.abv: 46.7% Price: $500

95 Drumshanbo Single Pot Still Irish Whis-key (Ireland; Palm Bay International, Port

Washington, NY). Richly spiced aromas lead into a smooth, luxurious palate that sinks into flavors of vanilla, dried apricot and dried date. Adding water unlocks more vanilla and sweet spices like clove, cinnamon and nutmeg. This is a big, mouthfilling whiskey to sip with a cube of ice or consider as a dessert pairing.abv: 43% Price: $63

94 The Busker Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Disaronno International, Somerset, NJ). For full review

see page 22. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $25

94 The Whistler Oloroso Sherry Cask Finish Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Prestige Beverage, Princ-

eton, MN). The sweet, enticing aroma bursts with dried fruit. Those notes are echoed on the robust palate: dried apricot, booze-soaked golden raisins and vanilla lead into a gentle nutty, gingery finish. Best Buy.abv: 43% Price: $35

93 Kilbeggan Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey (Ire-land; Beam Suntory, Chicago, IL). Fresh cut

apple and a hint of smoke lead the nose. The robust, flavorful palate offers a surprising plummy note, finishing long and drying with cayenne and clove heat. Altogether, the pleasing effect is like spice cake doused in whiskey. abv: 43% Price: $45

93 McCabe’s Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Hard Truth Distilling, Nashville, IN). Look for a pale

gold hue and toasty aroma. The palate shows dusty

nutmeg and cayenne spice, coupled with a meaty, umami note. Adding water enhances the spice and brings forward toasted grain, oatmeal cookie and malted milk notes, finishing drying and astringent. This is blended Irish whiskey pot-distilled in Ire-land, proofed and bottled in Indiana. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $30

93 Teeling Blackpitts Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Bacardi, Coral Gables, FL).

This is a peated single-malt Irish whisky, matured in Bourbon and Sauternes casks. Mild peat and tropical fruit intertwine on nose and palate, giving an impression of pineapple playing hide-and-seek through the smoke. Torched rosemary, smoked sage, lemon verbena and white pepper wind into the fin-ish. abv: 46% Price: $75

92 Silkie The Legendary Dark Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA). Peat

smoke leads on nose and palate for this robust blended whiskey. Look for baked apple mixed with plenty of peat and a fleeting perception of vanilla sweetness, finishing with hints of lemon peel and black pepper. Adding water mellows the smoke a bit, brings more vanilla forward.abv: 46% Price: $42

92 Silkie The Legendary Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA). This blended

Irish offers light, fresh aromas of fresh-cut red apple, vanilla and coconut. The palate opens with vanilla sweetness and cinnamon spice, winding into a fruity midpalate and finishing with a faint hint of smoke. Adding water opens up more peaty flavor. Sip or mix.abv: 46% Price: $40

92 Slane Triple Casked Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). For full

review see page 22. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $30

92 Teeling Small Batch Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Bacardi, Coral Gables, FL). This Irish whiskey

finished in rum casks has a bold baked-apple char-acter backed up with vanilla and lots of oak. Adding water unleashes grapefruit peel, a hoppy hint and clove sizzle.abv: 46% Price: $40

91 The Whistler Imperial Stout Cask Finish Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Prestige Beverage, Princ-

eton, MN). This complex whiskey smells lush and sweet, though the palate is less so, reading as hoppy and darkly spiced with clove and allspice. Adding water frames it with cocoa, citrus and espresso bitterness. What’s in the glass is a mix of malt and grain Irish whiskeys, finished in an ex-oloroso Sherry barrel that was filled with Boyne Brewhouse Imperial Stout, then emptied to finish the whiskey.abv: 43% Price: $40

SPIRITS

BUYINGGUIDE


90 The Whistler Calvados Cask Finish Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Prestige Beverage, Prince-

ton, MN). You don’t see many spirits finished in Cal-vados, a French apple brandy. This one opens with a vanilla aroma and cinnamon spice up front that reads like Red Hots candies and cinnamon gum. The midpalate shows sarsaparilla, leading into cayenne heat on the exhale. A splash of water and little time to open up yields a faint apple hint and amps up the cinnamon spice, creating an end result that suggests candied apple, with a drying finish. Limited release.abv: 43% Price: $40

90 The Whistler Double Oaked Distiller’s Select Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Prestige Beverage,

Princeton, MN). This robust Irish whiskey resounds with vanilla on nose and palate, plus mocha and a hint of cookie dough. Adding water draws out the finish a bit, layering roasted coffee and spice. What’s in the bottle is a mix of malt and grain whis-keys aged in Bourbon casks, then finished in oloroso Sherry casks. Sip or mix. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $30

89 Grace O’Malley Blended Irish Whiskey (Ire-land; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). Look for

a vanilla aroma, plus a mild resin note; both carry over to the palate. Vanilla and ginger lead into a long, spiced finish laced with lemon peel. This is billed as the first Irish whiskey named for a woman, specifically a legendary 16th century Irish pirate queen. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $37

OTHER WHISKEY

94 Wolves Wally’s Blend Whiskey (USA; Wolves, Ukiah, CA). The third limited-release offer-

ing from Wolves is a blend of “hop-flavored whis-key,” rye and malt whiskeys. It has an amber hue and rich caramel aroma, while the distinctly hoppy palate is likely to appeal to beer-lovers. Adding water releases dried fig and grapefruit, with hints of clove, caramel and spice that linger into the fin-ish. abv: 52% Price: $160

93 Glenmorangie A Tale of Cake Scotch Whiskey (Scotland, Moët Hennessy USA, New York,

NY). While this limited-edition single-malt Scotch finished in Tokaji wine casks doesn’t exactly taste like cake, it surely would make a fine dessert accom-paniment. Hints of coconut, pineapple and honey frame the nose and palate, finishing with accents of oak, smoke and sticky orange marmalade.abv: 46% Price: $99

92 Cascade Moon Edition No. 1 Whisky (USA; George Dickel & Co., Tullahoma, TN). First in

a new series of whiskeys from Dickel’s general man-ager/distiller Nicole Austin, this was inspired by the tasting notes found in a gose-style beer. Look for a burnished gold hue and hoppy aroma. The palate is hops-forward as well, showing hints of grapefruit peel and toasted grain. Adding water coaxes out a

tropical fruit note and a fleeting saline note that creates what a salted pretzel effect.abv: 42% Price: $90

92 Whiskeynaut Hop Flavored Whiskey (USA; Shelta Cavern Spirits, Huntsville, AL). From

Straight to Ale, which has both a brewery and dis-tillery arm, this whiskey begins with brewer’s malt, specifically the same used to make Straight to Ale’s Monkeynaut IPA, then distilled, flavored with hops and aged in Hungarian and American oak. The end result is a deep nut-brown hue and aromas of sarsa-parilla and oak. The palate is relatively herbaceous and hoppy at first, then slides into a satisfyingly fudgy, nutty finish.abv: 40% Price: $40

91 Devil’s Share American Whiskey (USA; Cut-water Spirits, San Diego, CA). The producer

describes this as a “California Small Batch Ameri-can Whiskey.” It begins with brewer’s malt, then, aged in new, heavily-charred oak barrels, similar to how Bourbon is made. The end result is oak and hazelnut on nose and palate. This complex sipper also shows hints of juicy red fruit, espresso bitter-ness and plenty of bouncy spice: cinnamon, anise and cayenne heat.abv: 46% Price: $100

90 Mythology Syrah Finished Whiskey (USA; Mythology Distillery, Denver, CO). What’s

in the bottle is a blend of Bourbon and rye whis-keys finished for seven months in Syrah Barrels from Oregon winery Dominio IV. The end result is remarkably fruity, melding zingy orange peel with mellow notes of vanilla, cocoa and oak. The astrin-gent, mouthwatering finish offers juicy citrus and fiery cinnamon.abv: 47% Price: $85

90 Puni Vina Marsala Edition Whiskey (Italy; High Road Spirits, Chicago, IL). This Italian

whiskey aged for five years, including in casks that previously held Marsala, Italy’s fortified wine. The end result is an amber hue and raisin aroma, and a sip that fleetingly channels another Italian staple: Luxardo cherries. Especially with a splash of water, dried cherry, prunes in syrup and sticky marmalade slide into long cocoa and dried fig finish. Mix into Manhattans.abv: 43% Price: $115

90 Ransom The Emerald 1865 American Whis-key (USA; T. Henry Ransom, Sheridan, OR).

This is an Irish-inspired American whiskey, made from a 150-year-old mash bill sourced by cocktail historian David Wondrich and re-created by Ran-som founder Tad Seestedt. The base is barley, rye and oats, which translates into a relatively lean, herbaceous whiskey. Look for a bright topaz hue and grassy, oaky aromas. The palate echoes that oaky note, layering hints of burnt orange peel, sarsapa-rilla and chamomile. The finish is long and drying, finishing with a cinnamon bark and vanilla exhale.abv: 43.8% Price: $78

87 Bearface One Eleven Series Canadian Whisky (Canada; Bearface Spirits, Toronto, ON).

This is unique limited-edition spirit blends ten parts Canadian whisky with one part espadin agave spirit, or mezcal without the designation. Look for a bright, golden hue and coconut aroma. The palate is slightly sweet at first, showing honey and coconut, rounding into hints of smoke and pecan. Sweet and smoky mingle into a mouthwatering salted honey finish.abv: 42.5% Price: $50

87 Puni Alba Whisky (Italy; High Road Spirits, Chicago, IL). Oak and smoke mark this Ital-

ian whiskey aged for three years, including in casks that previously held Marsala, Italy’s fortified wine, and Islay Scotch. Peat smoke dominates the nose and palate, underpinned by a very subtle honeyed note underneath. abv: 43% Price: $115

WINEMAG.COM | 117

98 Alaskan Brewing 2020 Smoked Porter (Smoked Porter; Alaskan Brewing, AK).

Rauchbier, or smoked beer, when done right can evoke any slew of memories: camping trips, nights around a backyard firepit, stops at roadside barbe-cue joints or a few drops of liquid smoke. This is an American classic and has been for decades. It offers a medium amount of smoke where the porter’s roast notes are not lost. Whiffs of cherry, apple wood and wet campfire all come together. A Band-Aid whiff is there, too. With a pleasing, oily character on the finish, this smoked porter continues to be the plati-num standard for American Rauchbier. Pair with smoked salmon, and make sure everyone has their own bottle.abv: 6.5% Price: $8/22 oz

98 Fremont Morpheus Coffee Porter (Coffee Porter; Fremont Brewing, WA). This elegant

coffee porter offers aromas of perfectly roasted beans that showcase all of the java with none of the

bitterness. A brewery only release, it offers a smooth pour with a velvety mouthfeel and displays threads of roasted cacao, toasted nuts and warmed fruit. It’s a first-class ale that makes such a strong impression and will stay on your mind for days afterwards. It is like drinking a breakfast beer from the heavens. Pour into your best glassware to enhance the expe-rience—this beer deserves nothing less. abv: 5.4% Price: $13/16 oz 4 pack

97 Ecliptic Capella Porter (American Porter; Ecliptic Brewing, OR). This ale offers a

smooth body with semi-prickly carbonation and flavors that focus on roasted malts, with whiffs of an herbal character mixed with dark chocolate. This is a porter that evolves as it warms, revealing a roasted depth to the ingredients that never teeters into bitter, but manages to keep a liveliness going until the end. abv: 5.2% Price: $12/16 oz 4 pack

97 Great Lakes Brewing Edmund Fitzgerald Por-ter (American Porter; Great Lakes Brewing,

OH). The gold standard of American-brewed por-ters, the beauty of this beer is its simplicity. Named for the ship that met a tragic ending, this lovely ale is a benchmark for the style and is never out of fashion. It is roast forward in profile, with pleasing coffee and chocolate undertones and a slight chalky ash finish. abv: 6% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

97 Highland Brewing Oatmeal Porter (American Porter; Highland Brewing, NC). This smooth-

bodied oatmeal porter offers a full mouthfeel, with roasted notes and a touch of cereal sweetness. Slightly nutty and less intense on coffee flavor than others in the style, this is an unfussy ale that blends into the background at gatherings but remains reliable pint after pint. Paired with sharp Ched-dar, Shepherd’s pie or raspberry sorbet, it’s just a delight to drink.abv: 5.9% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

96 Deschutes Black Butte³ (Barrel-aged Porter; Deschutes Brewing Co., OR). This luscious

porter is kicking with boozy attributes of wood and vanilla, with a roast that is reminiscent of dark chocolate fudge. Brewed with cocoa powder, the inception-like brewing wizardry means that this was aged inside of Black Butte whiskey casks before bottling. There is depth and warmth in each sip, much like what you would find in a fine whisky. abv: 14.1% Price: $15/500 ml

96 Jack’s Abby Lager Ness Monster Imperial Bal-tic Porter (Baltic Porter; Jack’s Abby, MA).

This big, boozy beer brings in flavors of chocolate, dark cherry and fudge, and highlights the barrels used to age recipe. An occasional release from the brewery, it is big on Bourbon, vanilla, and warm-ing characters as the beer opens up. It’s lusciously full-bodied, with just a touch of citrus hop essence on the back end. abv: 14% Price: $12/500 ml

96 Left Hand Death Before Disco Porter (Ameri-can Porter; Left Hand Brewing, CO). This

beer is smooth and satisfying, with soft roast notes that give it a luxurious feel. It offers whiffs of choc-olate, toffee and red berries that will intrigue pint after pint. The bitterness has rounded edges making it easy drinking and pleasurable for the long haul. A beer like this never goes out of style. abv: 6% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

95 Mikkeller Chic…Chic…Chic-ary (American Porter; Mikkeller, CA). Inky brown in color,

with a strong mocha head when poured, this has a boozy character, some vanilla, wood, and shows signs of Sherry and age, in a graceful way. Brewed with chicory root, if offers whiffs of old tobacco and leather. It has a warming quality and heavy body that feels welcoming with each sip. abv: 6.6% Price: $12/16 oz 4 pack

Walking past beer shelves or staring at tap handles across a bar, today’s mod-ern beer consumer is likely to see stouts outnumbering porters. That’s

too bad, because while both are dark colored ales, porters generally offer a smoother tasting experience, letting the roasted malts shine a lit-tle brighter.

Roasty aromas and flavors should be at the forefront of the style, including others in the family like robust porter, and Baltic porter. Their visual appeal is quite apparent. They can range from medium brown in color, with garnet highlights, to darker brown with tan- or mocha-colored heads that usually last for a long time when properly poured into a glass.

A style rooted in history, the particulars of what a porter should be are still under debate to this day. Brewers, especially Americans, color outside of the lines when it comes to creating recipes. Some release brown ales in the por-ter category and vice versa, feeling that the two share similar qualities.

Quite a few use the low-roast malt flavor of the category as a base for coffee additions. From blending with cold brew, steeping grounds in fermenting beer or aging on coffee beans, the marriage between java and porter is strong. As a result, these beers are often great for brunches and late-morning tailgating.

There is still no easy answer on the por-ter versus stout question, but one that is easy

to rely on comes from histo-rian Ron Pattinson: “All stouts are types of porter. But not all porters are stouts. Only the stronger ones,” he wrote in a 2015 feature in All About Beer magazine.

He debunked some popular myths and misconceptions about the styles, like the notion that the only difference is roasted barley, which some say only appears in stout.

Today, while there may be fewer porters than stouts on the market, the style is perfect for drinkers who claim they don’t like dark beer. With a mellow, pleasing construction, porters are a great entry into enjoying dark ales.

Cheers! —John Holl

Prêt-a-porter

The style is perfect for drinkers who

claim they don’t like dark beer.

BEER

BUYINGGUIDE


94 Bell’s Porter (American Porter; Bell’s Brew-ery, MI). This is a strong porter with all of

the hallmarks of the style that come together in a reliable, familiar, and easygoing way. The no frills nature of the roasted malts, slight hop bitterness and fruity yeast brings this beer together. Pint after pint it won’t dull your tastebuds or disappoint the palate. The smooth mouthfeel and medium-bodied nature make it the perfect companion to a cheddar cheeseburger. abv: 5.6% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

94 Blackberry Farm Leather Britches Porter (American Porter; Blackberry Farm Brewery,

TN). This offers all of the roast characteristics one would expect from a porter but with a sweet cherry-syrup note spun throughout. Hints of strawberry candy, vanilla and caramel chime in. It is a sweet treat of a porter from a brewery that is clearly hav-ing fun with the style. abv: 6.4% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack

94 Exhibit A Briefcase Porter (American Porter; Exhibit A Brewing, MA). This is a minerally,

light-bodied ale that starts off with low roast in the aroma but builds in flavor as the beer is consumed. It offers tones of roasted coffee, with whiffs of wal-nut and almond. It’s a satisfying beer that lands just right after an autumn hike. abv: 5.4% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack

94 Ferment Brewing Company Woodsman Por-ter (American Porter; Ferment Brewing Co.,

OR). On its own, the base beer is excellent, with a soft roast that is more coffee heavy than chocolate. Small bits of citrus and herbal hops chime in. It is the addition of fir tips that brings this beer to the next level. A woodsy earthiness wraps around the whole beer with a light pine touch. It’s a calming pour, one that upon the first sip relaxes the brain and seeks to make time move a little more slowly in an appreciative manner. Dark brown in color, with garnet highlights and a thick mocha head, this is a porter best consumed as fresh to bottling as pos-sible for the brightest flavors. abv: 5.6% Price: $5/500 ml

94 Greater Good Good Nitro Moon (American Porter; Greater Good Brewing Co., MA). This

milk porter receives the nitro treatment before canning. The result is a smooth, boozy, black lico-rice-inspired ale, with a prick of clove spice. It all morphs into flavors of vanilla cream soda and a hint of cherry cordial. There is depth and nuance to this on the nose and initial sip that quickly yields to a pleasing roast bitterness. This beer feels like it needs a special occasion, but it’s good on any cold night that calls for excitement. abv: 11% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack

93 New Realm Pilotlight Coffee Porter (Coffee Porter; New Realm Brewing, GA). Whiffs of

minerality and red berry land with a strong roast character in this medium-bodied ale. An ashy roast character builds with each sip, increasing the fla-vors of coffee, chocolate and wood. This is a limited brewery release, made with locally roasted coffee,

and is all-around pleasing and enjoyable. It’s an appropriate pub ale for the at-home experience. abv: 7.3% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

93 Sketchbook Ripe Now (American Porter; Sketchbook Brewing, IL). This porter is

a delightful drink any time of the day, offering a jaunty, sweet combination of coffee and tart fruit. Brewed with cranberries, this could be best enjoyed in autumn paired alongside roasts and holiday meals of all kinds. abv: 6.6% Price: $11/16 oz 4 pack

92 Alibi Porter (American Porter; Alibi Ale Works, CA). This is a fine pub ale for the at-home

experience. This offers a medium roast and a light-bodied palate. A bit of sugary chocolate chimes in on the midpalate, leading to an ashy, nutty finish.abv: 6% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack

92 Bent Water Jolene American Porter (Ameri-can Porter; Bent Water Brewing Co., MA).

Starting off with a soft mineral water flavor, this beer evolves to show a pleasing coffee roast tone alongside a hint of bitter chocolate for balance. A roasty flavor lends this pour to be paired with grilled meats or vegetables with a bit of char on them. The mild sweetness that is ever-present works in its favor. abv: 5.4% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack

92 Frog Alley Captain Ellis Porter (American Porter; Frog Alley Brewing, NY). This light-

bodied porter is slightly woody, with hints of maple, coffee roast and dark chocolate. The roast builds as the glass empties, hitting all of the hallmarks of this style. It’s enjoyable to drink and ready to stand up to whatever comes fresh off the grill no matter the time of year. abv: 6.4% Price: $10/16 oz 4 pack

92 Reuben’s Brews Robust Porter (American Porter, Reuben’s Brews, WA). This is an

assertive roasted ale that doesn’t weigh down the palate and shows off a lot of nuance as the glass empties. Paired with a roast, or as a quick pint at the train station bar on a cold, rainy night, this por-ter will deliver just the right amount of bitterness and sweetness each and every time. abv: 5.9% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

91 Bonn Place In Rude Health Porter (American Porter; Bonn Place Brewing, PA). It’s a cold,

rainy day and you’ve finally made it home from work. You want warm dry socks, and a night of bing-ing a show on TV. You need a beer that is not going to get in the way but offer a moderate alcohol, soft chocolate and roasted coffee notes and a low-to-medium body that won’t weight you down. This is that porter. Have it on hand for when the conditions are favorable. abv: 5.8% Price: $8/32 oz

91 Forgotten Boardwalk Morro Castle Smoked Porter (Smoked Porter; Forgotten Boardwalk

Brewing, NJ). This smoked porter is faintly herbal, with flavors of red berry, coffee, semisweet choco-

late and bits of dark caramel that come through. An American breakfast of bacon, eggs and pancakes with maple syrup would be a great pairing. abv: 5.7% Price: $13/16 oz 4 pack

91 Lost Worlds Trek Porter (Porter, Lost Worlds Brewing, NC). Sometimes you just want a

beer that is reliable on a Tuesday night with tacos, or Sunday at the tailgate, or when the mood strikes for something comfortable, familiar and roast-for-ward. This beer is that beer thanks to a medium body, with happily well-balanced roasted malt bill that brings both coffee and bitter chocolate but nei-ther ever seeking to take center stage. abv: 6.5% Price: $NA

90 Coppertail Night Swim Porter (American Porter; Coppertail Brewing Co., FL). This is

an easy drinking, light-bodied porter, with notes of coffee roast, semisweet chocolate and flint. Brewed with locally roasted chocolate, this finishes dry, with a coffee ground flavor and a touch of sweet-ness. abv: 6.2% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

90 Four Peaks Double Pumpkin Porter (Ameri-can Porter; Four Peaks Brewing, AZ). For

those who like a cup of coffee with their slice of pumpkin pie, this beer is for you. A strong coffee roast is bumped up by claps of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, rounded out with a slightly spicy gin-ger kick. The spices help mask the alcohol content. The actual gourd is hard to detect, but that is not always necessarily the point with a pumpkin beer, especially those using a robust style base.abv: 8.5% Price: $14/12 oz 6 pack

90 Great North RVP Robust Vanilla Porter (American Porter; Great North Aleworks,

NH). This offers a blast of peppermint on the nose that is boosted by sweet milk chocolate on the first sip. As you drink it, a little bit of spicy vanilla extract arrives and grows. The vanilla adds to a medium-body perception and brings a comforting, warming sensation. abv: 6.5% Price: $10/16 oz 4 pack

90 Greater Good Brewing Good Night Moon Imperial Milk Porter (Milk Porter; Greater

Good Brewing, MA). This offers all the hallmarks of a boozy milk chocolate, with a smooth coffee-flavored kick at the finish. Like its name suggests, this beer, with its high alcohol will put you out for the night after one, but sweet dreams are sure to follow. It’s a strong porter for those with a semisweet tooth. abv: 11% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack

89 Alaskan Brewing Baltic Porter (Baltic Porter; Alaskan Brewing Co., AK). With a thick head

of foam and a full body, this lager has strong roasted notes that verge on fudgy and vinous. Brewed with cherries, vanilla beans, brown sugar and aged on oak chips, there is a lot to unpack in this one, but offers happy hunting. abv: 9.8% Price: $8/22 oz bottle

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89 Deschutes Black Butte Porter (American Porter; Deschutes Brewing Co., OR). This is a

well-made porter, with whisps of caramel threaded around coffee, dark chocolate and some hop bite on the finish. It’s a familiar beer that won’t let you down and would complement everything from a raspberry torte to grilled swordfish. abv: 5.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

89 Deschutes Black Butte XXXII Imperial Porter (American Imperial Porter; Deschutes Brew-

ing, OR). Initial sips reveal a lot to unpack. This is an imperial porter aged in rum barrels, with addi-tions of orange peel, coffee, vanilla and nutmeg. It’s a limited release from the brewery that, when fresh, is full of spice and booze notes. A few years of rest in the cellar will likely reveal some nuance and let the dominant flavors mature. abv: 13.4% Price: $20/12 oz 4 pack

89 Foothills People’s Porter (American Porter; Foothills Brewing Co, NC). This is a mineral-

and roast-forward porter, with smacks of hop bit-terness throughout. It’s a stalwart of the style and remains a good choice in your glass today as it has been for years. Light on roast coffee and dark choco-late flavors, there is a vinous quality on the backend and a lively combination of green hops. abv: 5.8% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

89 Hoppin’ Frog 2020 Plum Tuckered-Out Dou-ble Double Porter (American Porter; Hoppin’

Frog Brewing, OH). This is a porter that will beat you up, take all your money and then call five years later like nothing ever happened and ask if you want to hit the bar. Like a dummy, you say “yes.” This is a monstrously high alcohol porter brewed with plums. It pours heavy handed when fresh and starts off with some boozy notes. With a few years to age and mellow, this is going to be one beer you’re glad to have in your cellar. abv: 17% Price: $8/12 oz

89 Small Change Night Windows Robust Porter (American Porter; Small Change Brewing,

MA). This offers a strong roast, with some earthy hop bitterness and a touch of dark chocolate fudge on the back end. Medium in weight, there’s excel-lent foam lacing on the glass. It has prickly carbon-ation and a building bitterness as the glass empties. abv: 6.3% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack

89 Smog City Coffee Porter (Coffee Porter, Smog City Brewing, CA). With a smooth

coffee roast, medium body and a lot of carbonation that keeps the taste buds alert, this pleasing porter builds on the acidity with each sip. It was aged on whole coffee beans and leaves a wonderful foam lac-ing on the inside of the glass. The finish brings a pleasing hop bitterness. abv: 6% Price: $14/12 oz 6 pack

89 West Sixth Pay It Forward Cocoa Porter (American Porter; West Sixth Brewing, KY).

Strong roast dominates from the fist sip to the last, building into a bit of a charred sensation on the taste buds yet still finishing with a noticeable

sweetness. This would benefit from an assertive food companion like mustard seed cheddar. Sales of this beer benefit local charities.abv: 6.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

88 Allagash Haunted House Hoppy Dark Ale (Cascadian Dark Ale; Allagash Brewing, ME).

The brewery calls this a “hoppy dark ale” and the hops are there, but not bright. It is slightly earthy, with a soft roast, some sweetness and whiffs of soft leather and tobacco. The hops arrive on the finish with a pleasing, resinous bitterness. abv: 6.6% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack

88 Hoppin’ Frog Infusion A Tower Tuesday Series Coffee Porter (Coffee Porter; Hoppin’

Frog Brewing, OH). This one is for the sugary choco-late lovers. The beer is completely lost in this, as it’s like drinking cocoa syrup right from the plas-tic bottle. Medium in carbonation and quite sweet, what it lacks in nuance it makes up for with blunt chocolate hits. A thick, candy peanut butter flavor appears to make this a true dessert beer. abv: 6.2% Price: $16/12 oz 4 pack

88 Night Shift Awake Porter (American Porter; Night Shift Brewery, MA). Notes of instant

coffee crystals and husky burnt malt are the domi-nant flavors of this dark ale. Made with house-roasted coffee, it changes seasonally and would be perfectly at home with a diner breakfast heavy on the slightly burnt bacon. abv: 6% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack

87 Highland Brewing Thunderstruck Coffee Por-ter (Coffee Porter; Highland Brewing, NC).

Coffee forward, with jagged, roasted notes around the edges, this is like a pot of diner java that’s been on the burner for a bit too long. Faint lavender and floral notes ride in the distance. It’s a seasonal release with Dynamite Roasting Company. abv: 5.8% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

87 River Horse Chocolate Porter (American Por-ter; River Horse Brewing, NJ). A confection-

ary-forward porter, this tastes like liquified sweet milk chocolate with a splash of coffee. If you like M&Ms, you’re going to like this beer. abv: 6.5% Price: $13/12 oz 6 pack

86 Four Peaks Kühl Beans Vanilla Coffee Porter (American Porter; Four Peaks Brewing, AZ).

A combination of coffee and vanilla is welcome in a porter, and in this particular one the two flavors play well together. Neither the coffee addition nor doses of vanilla dominate on the palate but are intertwined around the roasted malt notes that offer up some chocolate. Ruddy brown in color, with a thin, tan head that laces the glass well, this is a fine pick-me-up ale for brunch, or midway through an afternoon get together. abv: 8.2% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack

86 Idle Hands 34 Robust American Porter (American Porter; Idle Hands Craft Ales,

MA). The name is an homage to Red Sox slugger David Ortiz. The beer is metallic and roast forward,

with a sweet cream and coffee finish. The body is a little thin and watery, lacking in depth. abv: 6.7% Price: $13/16 oz 4 pack

86 Oskar Blues Death by Coconut (American Porter; Oskar Blues Brewing, CO). There’s

no mistaking the coconut in this ale, which comes more off as tanning oil than actual fruit. It is the dominant flavor that leave a slickness on the tongue. A fudgy chocolate character is in the mix but frequently gets lost. This was brewed with liq-uid chocolate from Cholaca. abv: 6.5% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

85 Ivanhoe Park Tupac Shaporter (American Porter; Ivanhoe Park Brewing, FL). This

offers a floral nose, verging on soapy, with spring orchard tones on the back end. Any roast or tradi-tional hallmarks are pushed aside by the potpourri aromas. abv: 7.3% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack

85 Switchback Dooley’s Belated Porter (Ameri-can Porter; Switchback Brewing, VT). This

is a porter that can help drinkers who claim they don’t like dark ales. Light in weight and low on roast flavors, this has the color and clarity desired in the style but doesn’t overwhelm the palate. abv: 5.7% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

84 Anchor Porter (American Porter, Anchor Brewing Co., CA). This beers comes off little

oxidized and thin, and with a hop bitterness mixed with strong roast on the finish. A staple on shelves since 1972, it’s a reliable porter that lets consumers taste a bit of history. The slightest thread of a sour tang near the finish is a trademark of this beer. abv: 5.6% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack

BROWN ALES

95 Bolero Snort Moountie (Brown Ale; Bolero Snort, NJ). This is a brown ale that feels at

home in the porter category thanks to a decent roast content. Faintly smoky, it offers aromas and flavors of sweet, wet pipe tobacco and a generous dash of sundae fudge. There’s a lot to unpack with this ale. Enjoy in a comfortable chair with some mid-tempo instrumental music to make for an excellent pairing. abv: 7% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack

89 Port Board Meeting (Brown Ale; Port Brew-ing Co., CA). Boozy and molasses forward,

and slightly astringent around the edges, there is a grappa quality on the back end, with hints of chalky roast on the finish. Brewed with coffee and cocao nibs, this is an appealing beer for those who like more assertive roast flavors. abv: 8% Price: $11/16 oz 4 pack

BUYINGGUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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