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FOR THE HARLEY-DAVIDSON® ENTHUSIAST SINCE 1916 2012 0 1 4 TWO NEW FOR 2012 1972 FLASHBACK VANCOUVER SEA TO SKY TWO NEW FOR 2012 1972 FLASHBACK VANCOUVER SEA TO SKY HOG.COM 014 $ 4.99 US 2012

Transcript of 0 1 4 TWO NEW FOR 2012 1972 FLASHBACK VANCOUVER ...

FOR THE HARLEY-DAVIDSON® ENTHUSIAST SINCE 1916

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FORD.COM

F-150: “Highest Ranked Large Pickup in Initial Quality in 2011” by J.D. Power and Associates.*

THE 2012 F-150This is the future of truck

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300 dpi100%100%

FTRK01683_D216591_CSpd_R04_SP.inddB. HensenP. KirnerN/AN/A

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SteigelmanFifelskiC. CuristonLyon

L. FosterA. Henley

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* The Ford F-150 LD received the lowest number of problems per 100 vehicles among large pickups in the proprietary J.D. Power and Associates 2011 Initial Quality Study.SM Study based on responses from 73,790 new-vehicle owners, measuring 234 models and measures opinions after 90 days of ownership. Proprietary study results are based on experiences and perceptions of owners surveyed in February-May 2011. Your experiences may vary. Visit jdpower.com.

D21659-1FD FSA 1029970FTRK 01683Consumer SpreadPark Prepress

F-150 2012 Quality

S. WatzN/AS. Duerr

J. Wilson / CRThe Park

14.75" x 9.5"15.75" x 10.5"18.5" x 11.5"CMYK

300 dpi100%100%

FTRK01683_D216591_CSpd_R04_SP.inddB. HensenP. KirnerN/AN/A

C. SosinN/AN/AA. Ayrault

SteigelmanFifelskiC. CuristonLyon

L. FosterA. Henley

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Editor

Intake

The Word

Spotlight

Next Ride

Get Going

Between the Lines

Enthusiasts

Gear

Archives

Exhaust

Departments

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Features

26 72 Hours of ImprovThree surprising days on the new 2012 Harley-Davidson® Softail® Slim™ and Sportster® Seventy-Two™ models.

32 Finding Their EdgeFour co-workers, four unique backgrounds, and four sets of reasons for learning to ride with Rider’s Edge.®

36 Getting ThereA look back at a 1972 ride to the Grand Canyon on a bone-stock Sportster and a hand-built Panhead chopper.

44 From Sea to SkyGlen Abbott embarks on a coast to mountain adventure through Canada’s British Columbia.

50 50 Ways to Love State RalliesThe reasons for attending a State H.O.G.® Rally are as unique and enticing as the states themselves.

52 $100 RidesIn search of the perfect trout stream in southwest Wisconsin.

Contents

6 HOG

Backstage

HOG 7

A Rare RacerThe newesT addiTion To The harley-davidson MuseuM® MoTorcycle

collecTion is this rare 1934 CAC short-track racer, acquired late last December from a private East Coast collector.

Developed by the Racing Department with input from legendary factory racer Joe Petrali, the CAC was the Motor Company’s entry into short-track Speedway-style dirt oval racing, intended to go up against competition from Europe, such as the 500cc British J-A-P. Only 20 CACs were built in 1934, plus an additional five spare 500cc engines. The price was $350 net for a complete bike ($217.50 for an engine), a substantial sum in the midst of the Great Depression. The bikes were sold to racers through sponsoring dealerships, and today, only nine are known to still exist, including one spare engine the Museum also has in its collection.

After conservation by the Archives staff, the CAC will be on display in the Museum’s Clubs and Competition gallery later this year.

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Backstory

HOG 9

Serving with HonorStaff Sergeant Victor tampone StandS at the ready on a Harley-Davidson® WLA in Columbus, Georgia on April 13, 1942.

During the majority of WWII, African-American soldiers served in segregated units across all branches of the military. Three years after the war, on July 26, 1948, President Harry S. Truman signed Executive Order 9981, which states, “It is hereby declared to be the policy of the President that there shall be equality of treatment and opportunity for all persons in the armed services without regard to race, color, religion, or national origin.” It would be many more years, however, before the desegregation order would be fully implemented by the U.S. military.

The bike is from 1940, the first production year of the WLA model, and includes a chrome oil cap, narrow rear brake, and a two-bolt transmission, all features that changed the following year. Approximately 60,000 WLA models were produced for the Allied Forces during WWII.

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IN THIS ISSUE OF HOG,® we’re officially announcing

what you probably already expected: 2013 will be the

110TH Anniversary of Harley-Davidson Motor Company

and the 30TH Anniversary of Harley Owners Group,®

and we’re throwing a big party in Milwaukee (and at

locations around the world) to celebrate both. I know

where I’ll be on Labor Day weekend next year, and I

hope you’ll join us, but this year’s calendar is still wide

open. I’m thinking of 2012 as my year to spend on the

open road, and I plan to hit a lot of destinations on my

bike over the next 10 months.

Also in this issue we announce the details of two

great H.O.G.® touring rallies (see Page 14), give you

50 reasons not to miss a State H.O.G. Rally, and put together a huge pullout poster of

events for the coming year that you can hang on the wall or stick in your saddlebag.

But that’s not all.

Ever had a stranger sidle up to you at a gas stop as your group is saddling up to hit the

road and ask where you’re headed? Ever had that person ask if they could join you? Well,

I’m that guy right now. HOG magazine wants you to invite us along on your ride this year.

As part of our push in 2012 to inspire riders to get out on the road and experience more of

the people, places, and events that make motorcycling such a great hobby, we’re inspired

and committed to do more of it ourselves. So here’s a challenge and an opportunity.

We’re asking readers to invite HOG magazine to attend your favorite event. Maybe it’s

a local poker run, a State H.O.G. Rally, your weekly chapter ride, or even a non-motorcycle

event you know about that’s just really cool. Whatever it is, send us an email with a photo

or two if you have them and, most importantly, tell us in a few words why this is a can’t-miss

event that we should attend, write about, and share with the rest of the Harley-Davidson

world. Think big or small, it doesn’t matter. We’ll pick at least one of the most interesting

ideas, and send a writer and photographer out to cover your event in the magazine.

We won’t be able to attend every event we’re invited to, but if we get a few that we

can’t resist, we might even make this a new regular feature in the magazine. Send your

invitations to [email protected].

Matt King

We Want to Ride With You

Editor

copyright 2012 H-D

ON THE COVER: Introducing the 2012 Sportster® Seventy-Two™ motorcycle (see Pages 26-31).

Executive EditorPaul James

EditorMatt King

Design and ProductionGS Design

Visit Harley-Davidson Motor Co. on the Internet at www.harley-davidson.com.

We care about you. Ride safely, respectfully, and within the limits of the law and your abilities. Always wear an approved helmet, proper eyewear, and protective clothing and insist your passenger does too. Never ride while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. Know your Harley® motorcycle and read and understand your owner’s manual from cover to cover.

HOG magazine is published by Harley-Davidson for owners of Harley-Davidson® motorcycles and anyone interested in news about the Motor Company, its products, and activities. Subscriptions are limited to the U.S.

We reserve the right to edit all submissions for publication in HOG.

All submissions become property of Harley-Davidson Motor Co. If you’d like your photo returned, please send a self-addressed stamped envelope with your submission.

All H-D® and Buell® product illustrations, photographs, and specifications mentioned in the publication are based on the latest product information at the time of publication. The right is reserved to make changes at any time in prices, colors, materials, equipment, specifications, and models and also to discontinue models. Some vehicles in this publication are shown with available equipment.

HOG will not intentionally publish fraudulent or misleading advertising. HOG does not endorse any advertiser or its products, and cannot be responsible for advertisers’ claims. Some advertised products are not available outside the U.S.

To order HOG or change mailing address, email us at [email protected] or write: HOG, Harley-Davidson, Inc., P.O. Box 453, Milwaukee, WI 53201, or visit: www.harley-davidson.com/hog.

When requesting a change of address, include your mailing label from the back cover.

To advertise in HOG, e-mail John Sandberg at [email protected].

HOG may allow others to use its mailing list. If you do not want your name included, please write: HOG, Harley-Davidson, Inc., P.O. Box 453, Milwaukee, WI 53201.

No part of HOG may be reproduced for any purpose in entirety or part without the express written consent of Harley-Davidson.

Harley-Davidson, Harley, H-D, HOG, and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC.

10 HOG

NO PURCHASE OR PAYMENT NECESSARY TO WIN. A PURCHASE DOES NOT INCREASE YOUR CHANCES OF WINNING. Open only to legal residents of the 50 United States and the District of Columbia and Canada who are at least 18 years of age or the age of majority in the state where they reside, whichever is older, at the time of entry, and who are a member in good standing of Harley Owners Group.® Begins January 1, 2012 and ends December 31, 2012. Void where prohibited. Visit the Take Part section of members.hog.com for a complete set of Official Sweepstakes Rules.

For 2012, the H.O.G.® ABCs of Touring contest is better than ever, with simpler rules and bigger prizes, including a 2013 Harley-Davidson® Switchback motorcycle and a VIP trip to Milwaukee for the H-D 110TH and H.O.G. 30TH Anniversary Celebration. So grab a camera, saddle up, and hit the road. Get started today at members.hog.com.

returning to the typewriter to put them down on paper. I still “surf” this way – working out problems, writing articles and letters, etc. – while on my 2007 Softail.® I think one of the things that enables this is that the Big Twin motor, no matter the year, resembles the beating of a heart that brings us back to basic life and a certain serenity. Those who don’t ride a motorcycle cannot understand it.

Thomas E. hilE

Harris, Missouri

York AppreciAtion

I truly enjoyed the “From Firepower to Horsepower” picture and article in issue 013. I live 15 miles or so from the York H-D plant but have never toured it. The history was very interesting and great to learn. I’ve only been riding since 2010 and have a 2010 XL 1200 Sportster.® I love it! My husband is not a motorcyclist and says he never will be. But despite him not loving it, I’m going to continue to ride. Like a lot of other ladies who have raised their children, I now have some “me time” on my hands. Getting back to the article … great article, great story. I enjoy your magazine and someday hope to be able to take part in more of the activities you write about.

michElE DEaTrick

New oxford, PeNNsylvaNia

Singing Hog®’S prAiSeS

HOG magazine looks and reads great, and is the reason I belong to H.O.G.! Thanks for your efforts.

In addition to riding, my passions include digital photography and writing. The composition of the photo on the cover of issue 013 (a ’46 Flathead and carved wooden door) is a masterpiece. I plan to frame the cover for display in my home office. Being a rider born in 1946 and an architect who appreciates the old door, this image evokes a certain reverence for me.

Ride on, HOG!

Tom Davis

orlaNdo, florida

cubA, DiviDeD

I woke up early so took a minute to log into my e-mail and saw the H.O.G. Insider e-newsletter [December issue] in my Inbox. I started reading it, and by the time I was done I was so proud and deeply touched to the point of tears rolling down my cheeks.

You see, first there was the story of Michelle Brown and her partner, Andrea. In a world where so much has changed over the 47 years I have lived, here was H.O.G. featuring a lesbian woman and her partner sharing a moment as human beings living in dignity, in love with H-D and each other.

If that wasn’t enough, there was a link to Michael Lichter’s photo gallery exploring Harlistas in Cuba. I’m the first-generation American son of two Cuban immigrants, and while I’m fiercely proud to be American, I also know my heritage lies beyond the waters of this great

a Mr. Rosell, who drove your writer around, even got a shining new SUV!

No words can accurately describe my horror and shock when I see all this B.S. in my favorite magazine, the one dedicated to the undisputed symbol of personal liberty. Shame on you, Harley-Davidson, for publishing such trash. The guys at LAMA may be ignorant of the daily brutality that occurs in Cuba, but you should know better.

angEl milanEs

elizabetH, New Jersey

WHY i’m A H.o.g.® member

I happen to be one of the H.O.G. members who doesn’t wear patches, attend meetings, or is able to participate in local riding activities with any of the local chapters. Yet, I’m very proud to be a H.O.G. member. I couldn’t have enjoyed this year’s almost-2,000-mile, week-long vacation along the Eastern Seaboard and Route 1 without the help of my membership. The true meaning of being a H.O.G. member isn’t the member benefits, discounts, or paraphernalia. It’s most definitely the camaraderie!

A few years ago I was able to ride home (literally, as I grew up in Racine, Wisconsin) to enjoy the H.O.G. rally that was part of the H-D 105TH Anniversary Celebration. Time spent with people whom my wife and I met, talked to, and exchanged stories with was worth all the annual dues of our membership. Outside of Miller Park was one of the greatest collections of wonderful people, bikes, and great stories! Other than the 750-mile ride each way, it was the highlight of our trip.

rob carlson

red Creek, New york

country in my ancestral homeland of Cuba. I have never had the joy of walking the streets of Havana or the quiet shores of Varadero Beach near Cardenas, where my parents grew up. To see this photo essay touched me deeply and moved my soul.

michaEl r. DE la hoz

boardMaN, oHio

I’m under no illusion that you’ll publish my letter, but I must write it just the same. Castro’s Cuba is not a country, but rather a modern-day plantation where every city block has a government snitch who lives rather large while monitoring the comings and goings of all the folks on that block. Castro’s Coast Guard has been known to sink fleeing boats, drowning the freedom-seeking, runaway slaves. The list of the regime’s crimes is long. Castro, like all other dictators, employs a very simple system for his survival: Namely, dissent is savagely punished while loyalty is amply rewarded. I can only wonder what these Harlistas did to earn a Harley.® Heck, one of them,

Intake

SuggeStion box

I wish H.O.G. would bring back the fixed-site national rallies instead of just the rolling rallies. We haven’t been to a U.S. National H.O.G. Rally since Oklahoma City in 2009. Our state rallies just aren’t worth going to, and the national rallies were a great opportunity to travel and see the brand well represented.

TrEva lackEy

via e-Mail

Treva, trust me when I tell you that maximizing the H.O.G. rally experience – in a way that makes economic sense – is a frequent topic of lengthy conversation at H.O.G. Figuring out ways to help members enjoy their membership more fully is a top priority. I do wish, however, that you’d give U.S. state rallies another look. If the rallies in your area don’t suit your tastes, that’s all the more reason to hit the road for a faraway one. Doing so is a “great opportunity to travel and see the brand well represented.” To whet your appetite for all sorts of eventful adventure, check out the feature on Page 50, the calendar on Page 23, and the poster insert in this issue. –Ed.

WHAt’S Your StorY?

we welcome your letters, photos, and

riding stories. Please e-mail yours to

[email protected] or

mail them to … HoG magazine, P.o. box

453, Milwaukee, wi 53201. Please include

your name, address, telephone number

and/or e-mail address. all submissions

become property of Harley-davidson.

we reserve the right to edit submissions

for length and content.

12 HoG HoG 13

tAking A bAck SeAt to no one

I’m a passenger (“BOB”: the Beauty On Back) on a H-D® motorcycle I co-own with my husband. While I know how to operate a motorcycle, I choose not to. I’m not comfortable with my abilities and recognize my limitations. Plus, I love being on the back of the bike that we own. I love being a true Harley bike owner and everything that Harley-Davidson stands for. Yet, as a woman passenger, I’m constantly asked, “When are you going to start riding your own bike?”

I read HOG magazine every month, and there’s always some mention of a woman rider who “finally” got her own bike – and so now she’s somehow a better person. I know that’s not what is meant, but that’s how it makes us BOBs feel.

I encourage any woman to follow her dreams and challenge herself. I applaud women who make the transition from being a passenger to an operator and share in their excitement. But please don’t make me feel that I’m somehow a lesser person because I don’t make that transition. When I think of Harley-Davidson, I immediately think of freedom – and shouldn’t that include the freedom to be a passenger without being judged?!

robyn Jacobs-robErTson

kiNGwood [texas] H.o.G. CHaPter

tHougHtS on tHougHt Surfing

Dear Matt Levatich,I understand your “Thought Surfing”

editorial [“Exhaust,” issue 012]. The idea of writing it probably came to you while riding. When I was in college, I used to ride the West Virginia country roads on my motorcycle and often found myself writing my assignments in my head, then

The composition of the photo on the cover of issue 013 is a masterpiece. I plan to frame the cover for display in my home office. Tom Davis, orlaNdo, florida

The Word

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H.O.G.® News

A Great Idea Gets Better

Legend has it that when H.O.G. launched the ABCs of Touring contest in 1984, nobody was really sure how popular it would be – or even if it would succeed. It was such a simple idea: take pictures of yourself, your Harley-Davidson® motorcycle, and a copy of Hog Tales® magazine in front of “official signs” to score points and win prizes.

That first year, about 100 members (out of 45,000 at the time)

submitted an entry. A modest beginning, to be sure. Today it’s one of the most popular programs H.O.G. has ever offered, with thousands of entries each year.

But even solid gold ideas need a little polishing now and then. So I’m pleased to announce that this popular program has been enhanced for 2012.

Don’t worry! The basic concept remains the same. We’ve made a few changes to make it a little simpler – and give more people a chance to win big prizes.

For starters, we’ve reduced the number of award levels. Anyone who scores as few as five points will receive an ABCs of Touring pin, patch, and decal. Higher levels include 26-51 points, 52-77 points, and the top level of 78 points or more. Additional prizes at various levels include entries into the Harley-Davidson Switchback motorcycle sweepstakes, a H.O.G. challenge coin, a framed HOG® magazine cover personalized with your photo, and – for any member who reaches at least 78 points – entry into a sweepstakes to win a VIP trip for two to the 110TH/30TH Anniversary Celebration in Milwaukee in 2013.

Got all that? For complete rules and details, or to download your entry form, log on to members.hog.com. Then get out there and get riding! And make 2012 your most rewarding year of riding yet.

Todd RobinsonH.O.G. Regional Manager

HOG 15

Two for the RoadMake pLans now to take to the road with H.O.G. on one – or both! – of two great tours scheduled for 2012:

Wild West Thunder – June 10-17This unforgettable week-long ride will take you through some of the most magnificent scenery the U.S. has to offer while touring California, Arizona, Nevada, and Utah. Points of interest are the Mojave Desert, Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Monument Valley, and more.

Battle Cry – September 26-29Here’s your chance to tame the legendary twisties of the Tail of the Dragon, just one of the exhilarating roads you’ll ride in Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee. Other highlights include the breathtaking Smoky Mountains, the scenic Cherohala Skyway, and historical Civil War battlefields and other sites.

Registration opens March 1 on members.hog.com.

2012 Starts Any TimeReMeMbeR, you don’t have to wait for your official renewal date to get your 2012 membership materials. Renew any time, and we’ll send them right away. Just log on to members.hog.com or call 1-800-CLUB-HOG (800-258-2464) to extend your membership another year – or two or three or for life!

Million Mile Monday-PlusMiLLion MiLe Monday is going big in 2012 – crossing state lines, borders, oceans, time zones, and even the International Date Line. Not only are we going for more miles, more countries, and more riders in 2012, but also more days. In addition to the traditional June 25 (the last Monday in June), this year’s worldwide ride will include June 24. This head start on Sunday will give Harley® motorcycle riders around the globe the flexibility to take part in whatever way works best for them. Pick one day or ride both. Go solo or organize a chapter ride. Just ride! We’ll show the world what H.O.G. members can do when we come together as one. Mark your calendar today – and stay tuned for more details!

N2 or Not N2?a hot topic in the tiRe woRLd these days is the use of nitrogen

gas (N2) in place of standard compressed air. But is there really

an advantage?

The short answer is … “no comment.” Harley-Davidson has not

conducted testing of nitrogen-filled tires and therefore cannot make

any official recommendation. However, some Harley-Davidson®

dealerships now offer it, so it’s to the benefit of our riders to

understand what the intended benefits are – even as they

remain unproven.

To begin with, keep in mind that your tires are most likely already

filled with approximately 78 percent N2. That’s the percentage that

naturally occurs in the earth’s atmosphere – and, by extension,

your everyday compressed air. What are the alleged benefits of

increasing that percentage to 100? Generally, it’s believed that the

use of pure nitrogen will help stabilize the pressure in your tires,

for two main reasons.

The first is that the N2 molecule is larger than the O2 molecule,

and is, therefore, less susceptible to permeating the walls of your

tires over time. This will theoretically lead to more consistent

pressure. The second has to do with moisture. Pure nitrogen

contains no water vapor, which, in theory, eliminates the possibility

of condensation in your tires, which can damage rims and cause

minor pressure fluctuations. In practice, however, it’s very difficult

to completely purge your tires of “regular” air and moisture. And

any time you top them off with compressed air, there’s a good

chance you’re introducing some moisture.

You may also hear that nitrogen gas is less susceptible to

temperature-related pressure fluctuations. However, the Ideal Gas

Law tells us that different gases expand and contract identically in

relation to temperature, so this theory is questionable.

Again, the jury is still out regarding nitrogen in tires. If you

think using it may benefit you, talk to your local H-D® dealer for

more information.

HDTLC

16 HOG

110 + 30 = Be There!haRLey-davidson MotoR coMpany will celebrate 110 years of great motorcycles and 30 years of Harley Owners Group® in 2013. Details are in the works, but mark your calendar now and start making plans to attend this epic event in Milwaukee, August 29-September 1 (Labor Day Weekend).

In addition, the 110TH Anniversary Celebration will be global, including a major rally in Rome, Italy, June 13-16.

To reserve housing for the Milwaukee or Rome events, visit www.h-d.com/110.

It Pays to Build Your Owndesign, fit, and buy youR 1200 custoM with H-D1 Factory Customization during March or April and get $400 in H-D MotorClothes riding gear. And get a customized Harley-Davidson Insurance quote that matches the perfect coverage to your bike. Get started at h-d.com/ridehd1.

HOG 17

The Word

H.O.G.® News

H.O.G.® Exclusives at Daytonah.o.g. MeMbeRs, don’t foRget to stop at either the H-D Demos site at Daytona International Speedway or the H-D Display at Riverfront Park (Beach Street) at Daytona Bike Week (March 10-17) to pick up your commemorative pin and chat with H-D staff. Also, new this year for members only, on the evening of March 14 H.O.G. offers exclusive access to food and beverages, along with premium viewing of the musical entertainment at the Beach Street H-D display. Best of all, no pre-registration is required. Just show up, show your H.O.G. membership card, and enjoy!

For details, visit h-d.com/daytona.

What’s YOUR Big Event?hog® Magazine is asking ReadeRs to help us fill out our event calendar by inviting us to a favorite event you’d like to see publicized. We’re looking for big events, small events, quirky events, unusual events, overlooked events – it doesn’t even have to be a motorcycle event. If it’s an event that attracts riders, that you think fellow H.O.G. members and HOG readers would enjoy, tell us about it! Tell us what you know and include a link, phone number, or other way to access official information. We’ll send a writer and photographer to cover the chosen event in a future issue of HOG.

Send your ideas to [email protected].

Chapter Challenge is a Winner

Last faLL, h.o.g. chaLLenged

local chapters around the country to support our troops by raising at least $500 for the USO to send care packages to personnel stationed overseas. Needless to say, our members came through in a big way. In November and December, just over 200 chapters raised more than $180,000. Thanks to everyone who helped make this amazing effort possible!

Spotlight

Linda Patterson

Making a U-turnNOT LONG AGO, LINDA PATTERSON FELT LIKE SHE WAS DROWNING

IN A COLD, DARK SEA OF DOMESTIC VIOLENCE AND POWERFUL

ADDICTIONS. Trapped and helpless, fearful of everything and everybody, she believed her life would never change – that change was not possible. She had no hope.

Today, everything has changed. Utterly. Completely. Absolutely. Thanks to a series of personal commitments to change and her faith in God, her life has turned 180 degrees. Though she still struggles at times to cope with the scar tissue that remains, she now rides fearlessly through life at full throttle.

“There are days,” she writes on her blog, “when I would like to just lay my head on a shoulder and cry. But tears cannot fix things. God has a plan. I have to remember that.”

It’s a new attitude and outlook on life – one that Linda, who now mentors victims of abuse in California’s San Fernando Valley, is determined to share.

“My experience, achievements, and belief in what life has to offer can inspire other women in achieving their own goals and breaking free from their own separate prisons,” she says. “As a mentor to other women, my life has purpose in knowing that my past has provided me with the opportunity to help others in their journey to change.”

To help her get that word out, Linda set out last July on a 7,000-mile journey across America on her 2005 Screamin’ Eagle® Fat Boy,® “Dragon Slayer.”

“Her name used to be ‘Classy Sassy,’” she says, “Because I thought all her chrome was very classy! But in March of 2010 she became my Dragon Slayer. She carried me through some very dark times – times when I didn’t want to live anymore.”

A H.O.G.® member since 2005, Linda decided to plan her journey around Harley-Davidson® dealerships across the country. Many people had expressed interest in joining her along the way – and what better place to meet up and ride with others than a H-D® dealership? She had no idea, however, that the dealerships would be so supportive in helping her raise awareness, arranging interviews with broadcast and print outlets, as well as “meet and greet” opportunities with the public.

All in all, she visited 19 dealerships during her 18-day journey. She has no idea, however, how many people heard her story as a result. The effect, she hopes, is much like throwing a pebble into a pond. “It’s not about the pebble, it’s about the ripples,” she says, speaking of the lives her journey has touched. And though she doesn’t often get to see the effects of those ripples, when she does, it makes all her efforts worthwhile.

One particularly poignant example is a cancer patient named Ernie she met through her blog. “He told me that he had given up his fight,” she explains. “But then he read my story, and went back to the doctors and told them, ‘Let’s fight this.’”

In addition to spreading her personal message of change, Linda also raised money for Big Brothers Big Sisters of Metro Milwaukee. She chose Milwaukee because her Harley-Davidson motorcycle has been such a big part of her transformation. And she chose Big Brothers Big Sisters “because they provide mentorship to children facing adversity and provide them an opportunity to become successful in their own lives.

“My mentors have pointed me in a direction where I’m not afraid to go out on my own. I want to prove to the world that if I can change, anyone can.”

For more information about Linda and her Journey to Change, or to help her reach her fund-raising goal, visit www.journeytochange.me.

18 HOG

everywhere else

3POINTS

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February 2012 Issue — HOG — Full page color ad —Trim- 7-7/8” x 10-1/2” RUNS WITH CARD INSERTIONAdvertiser: U.S. Bank-H-D Signature VISA Media Contact: Joyce Hart 612-973-2310Art Contact: Shelley Timm-Thompson, Raindance Advertising LLC (708) 771-9948

at gas station, restaurant, bar and lodging merchants1

at Harley-Davidson® dealerships1

Rev up with the Harley-Davidson® Visa Signature® card, and watch the rewards roll in! Apply now, and get 2,500 bonus points* — enough for $25 Harley Chrome® Cash! It’s easy to keep earning rewards. For every $1 you spend on your card, you’ll earn:

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with the ultimate rider reward card.

UP TO

Turn your points into Harley Chrome® Cash to spend at participating, authorized H-D® dealerships. You’ll also enjoy no annual fee2 and chances to win a new H-D® motorcycle3 every month!

APPLY NOW! GET 2,500 BONUS POINTS AND $10 HARLEY CHROME® CASH.*

CALL: 1-877-742-4766, EXT. 94075OR VISIT: H-DVISA.COM/HD94075 *This offer is subject to credit card approval and your new Harley-Davidson® Visa® card account must be open and current to receive bonus points. Allow six to eight weeks for bonus

points to post to your account.1 U.S. Bank cannot control how merchants choose to classify their business and reserves the right to determine which purchases qualify. Fast food merchants may not qualify for additional bonus points.2 The APRs may vary and as of 01/01/12, the variable APR for Purchases and Balance Transfers is 13.99%-22.99% (based on your creditworthiness). The variable APR for Cash Advances is 23.99%. Cash Advance fee: 3% of each advance amount, $10 minimum. Convenience Check fee: 3% of each check amount, $5 minimum. Cash Equivalent fee: 4% of each cash amount, $10 minimum. Balance Transfer fee: 3% of each transfer amount, $5 minimum. There is a $2 minimum finance charge where interest is due. The annual fee is $0. Foreign Transaction fee: 2% of each foreign purchase transaction or foreign ATM advance transaction in U.S. Dollars. 3% of each foreign purchase transaction or foreign ATM advance transaction in a foreign currency.3 NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Sweepstakes begins January 1, 2012 at 12:00:01 am CT and ends December 31, 2012 at 11:59:59 pm CT. Open to legal residents of the 50 United States and D.C., who are 18 years of age and older. For details, including how to enter without purchase, see Official Rules at h-dvisa.com. Void where prohibited. Sponsor: Harley-Davidson Financial Services, Inc., 222 W. Adams St., Ste. 2000, Chicago, IL 60606.The creditor and issuer of the Harley-Davidson® Visa® card is U.S. Bank National Association ND, pursuant to a license from Visa U.S.A. Inc. ©H-D 2012. All rights reserved. Harley-Davidson, H-D, Harley, the Bar and Shield logo and Harley Chrome are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC.

20 HOG

Next Ride

Lincoln to Conway, New Hampshire

Kancamagus Scenic BywayTHIS OFFICIALLY DESIGNATED STATE AND NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAY

is known by many as the best fall foliage ride in the U.S. – which is all the more reason to ride it in the spring or summer, to avoid the congestion created by “leaf peepers” from around the world. No matter what time of year you visit, the twisting and turning road offers breathtaking views of New Hampshire’s White Mountains, the Swift River, Sabbaday Falls, Lower Falls, and Rocky Gorge.

www.byways.org/explore/byways/2458www.kancamagushighway.com

YOU’RE NEXT! Got an idea for a great Next Ride? Send your suggestion, along with a high-quality photograph to [email protected].

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Sonora Pass and Yosemite National ParkSubmitted by Joe Hughes, Huntington Beach, California

ON A RECENT TRIP, my friend Craig and I rode up U.S. 395 to Lee Vining and Mono Lake. The next morning we rode through Yosemite, which included a ride among Yosemite’s Giant Sequoias. Perhaps the highlight of the entire trip, however, was the ride home over Sonora Pass on CA 108. This was one beautiful ride! The pass is at an elevation of 9,624 feet, and the air, trees, and all the water were just amazing. I highly recommend riding the High Sierras if you ever get a chance.

www.nps.gov/yose

Ride… Rack’em up.

*Number of Rider-Friendly® hotels may fluctuate throughout the year. Each Best Western® branded hotel is independently owned and operated. Best Western and the Best Western marks are service marks or registered service marks of Best Western International, Inc. ©2011 Best Western International, Inc. All rights reserved. Harley-Davidson, Harley, H-D, the Bar and Shield logo and H.O.G. are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC. Hotel photo shown: San Antonio, Texas.

ENROLL & BOOK TODAYbestwestern.com/hog | 1.888.BW2BIKE

Check out our seasonal offers and promotions

You travel for many reasons, which is why we now have Best Western®, Best Western Plus® and Best Western Premier®. We’ve made it easy for you to find the hotel that is just right for your trip.

Each Best Western is independently owned, which means there will always be someone there who cares about you and rewards you for your loyalty.

H.O.G.® MEMBERs RECEIvE PLATINuM ELITE sTATus WITH BEsT WEsTERN.Join Best Western Ride Rewards®, the exclusive FREE rewards program designed just for Harley-Davidson® Enthusiasts! • Automatic upgrade to Platinum Elite status• 15% bonus points on every stay• Complimentary room upgrades, early check-in

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Plus enjoy additional benefits when you stay at one of our 1,200 Rider-Friendly® hotels in the U.S. and Canada.

The World’s Biggest Hotel FamilySM

Get Going

HOG 23

BEALE STREET MUSIC FESTIVAL › Memphis, Tennessee› May 4-6› www.memphisinmay.org

LAUGHLIN RIVER RUN › Laughlin, Nevada› April 25-29› www.laughlinriverrun.com

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AMA ROAD RACING › Daytona Beach, Florida› March 15-17› www.amaproracing.com

COUNTRY THUNDER › Florence, Arizona› April 12-15› www.countrythunder.com

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON® RIDE IN CUSTOM BIkE SHOw

A New Partner for the Show THIS YEAR’S HARLEY-DAVIDSON RIDE IN CUSTOM BIkE SHOw pROMISES

TO BE BETTER THAN EVER as H-D partners with American Iron Magazine. To enter the show, bring your ride to the Harley-Davidson Experience at 295 North Beach Street in Riverfront Park. Sign-in is open from 9AM to Noon, judging is from Noon to 4PM, and cash and custom trophies will be awarded when judging is complete. Everyone is welcome to stop by any time to check out the great bikes and greet the staff from Harley-Davidson, American Iron Magazine, and American Iron Motorcycle Bagger.

2012 U.S. State H.O.G.® Rallies

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wHETHER THEY’RE AROUND THE CORNER or across the country, U.S. State H.O.G. Rallies provide unique opportunities to enjoy new experiences as you travel the United States. For a complete 2012 schedule, log on to hog.com/events.

Dates, locations, and event details subject to change.

› Daytona Bike Week – Beach Street/Riverfront Park › Wednesday, March 14

2

2012 Canadian H.O.G.® RalliesALABAMA

Come for the riding, stay for the Southern hospitality.› Pelham/Birmingham› May 17-19

NEBRASkA

Drop in for the national Monumental Fiddling Championship.› Beatrice› May 23-27

TENNESSEE

Ride high on the Highland Rim in beautiful Cookeville.› Cookeville› May 29-June 2

kANSAS

Ride the Flint Hills, one of the Midwest’s best-kept secrets.› Junction City› May 31-June 2

ARIZONA

Celebrate 100 years of the Grand Canyon State.› Williams› June 7-9

ILLINOIS

Ride, Rock, and Roll in Rosemont (and visit the new River Casino).› Rosemont› June 7-9

kENTUCkY

Take a big sip of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.› Lexington› June 7-9

NEVADA

Roll the dice and get lucky on this two-city riding rally.› Reno to Winnemucca› June 13-16

IOwA

Pack up, ride in, and join in “Celebrating Freedom.”› Des Moines› June 14-16

COLORADO

Hot springs, mountains, and small-town charm.› Buena Vista› June 14-17

MARYLAND/DELAwARE

Live the “wild life” in Deep Creek Lake, Maryland.› Deep Creek Lake, MD› June 14-17

ALASkA

Welcome summer where the sun never sets.› Palmer› June 21-23

Texas State H.O.G. RallyYOU kNOw THE wORDS TO THE FAMOUS SONG LYRICS: “The Stars at night are big and bright, deep in the heart of Texas.” Yes, that’s right, everything IS bigger and brighter in Texas! That includes BIG bikes and BRIGHT chrome. Make H.O.G. history by joining the rally party in the Historic Fort Worth Stockyards. It won’t be complete if you’re not there! Take action now! Plan to ride big, shine bright, and party on!

› Fort Worth, Texas› May 3-5

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MDA RIDE FOR LIFE 25 › Philadelphia, Pennsylvania› May 5-6› www.mdarideforlife.org

16TH QUÉBEC pROVINCIAL H.O.G.® RALLY› Repentigny, Québec › July 5-7› www.rallyehogrepentigny

2012.com

5TH pRAIRIE REGIONAL H.O.G.® RALLY› Saskatoon, Saskatchewan › July 12-14› www.prairieregionalrally.com

12TH wESTERN REGIONAL H.O.G.® RALLY› Prince George,

British Columbia › July 19-21› www.12thwesternregional

hogrally.ca

24TH ONTARIO pROVINCIAL H.O.G.® RALLY› Windsor, Ontario › July 26-28› www.ontariohogrally.com

17TH CANADIAN NATIONAL H.O.G.® RIDING RALLY› Moncton, New Brunswick › August 8-11› members.hog.com

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Between the Lines

Never Stop LearningThe Road to Being a Better Rider is Endless

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BTL

Whether you’re a newly minted Rider’s Edge graduate or an

experienced veteran with many thousands

of riding miles behind you, continuing

education – formal and informal – should

always be a part of your overall riding plan.

One of the most important things you

will learn, or should learn, in completing

your Rider’s edge new Rider Course – or

any Motorcycle safety Foundation (MsF)

certified Basic RiderCoursesM – is that you’re

not required to immediately start riding on

the street. in fact, it’s usually a good idea to

work your way up to that.

Yes, when you pass the course you’re

qualified to take your state’s written test

and get the coveted motorcycle designation

on your driver license. At that point, it’s

tempting to think, “i’m done! i did it! i’m a

rider now!” to be sure, it’s a very important

first step. But going from the parking lot

to side streets to country roads to city

streets to highways and freeways is a

process that should be taken seriously.

And never rushed.

think of graduating from the Rider’s

edge new Rider Course or the MsF Basic

RiderCourse as a starting line on a journey

of lifelong learning. You will have gained

fundamental building blocks necessary to

begin developing the mental and motor

skills important for safe street operation,

but only practice and experience will ingrain

this knowledge. there’s always room to

improve. there’s always more to learn about

safe riding – with great benefits for those

who keep moving forward.

A Step-by-Step Approachtake a moment to consider this paragraph

from the Basic RiderCourse handbook. it’s

something we always discuss as part of the

new Rider Course curriculum, but i fear it

often gets lost in the excitement of learning

to ride:

“successfully completing the Basic

RiderCourse is not a guarantee you

will be safe on the road. Only you can

choose the level of safety you wish to

maintain. the course will provide you

with the opportunities and experiences

to acquire the basic knowledge and

skills that enable you to continue to

practice and develop your safe riding

habits. safe riding is also a matter

of attitude, and only you can provide

that.” (emphasis added)

no matter how well you do in your

class – in the classroom and on the range –

riding in second gear in a parking lot with

11 fellow students is not the same as riding

in real-world traffic. it’s great preparation

but no substitute for actual experience. it

can be intimidating to new riders the first

time they find themselves “elbow to elbow”

with moving cars in traffic. On the range

the surface was consistent, traffic flowed

logically, and no one was texting or eating

lunch in the other lane!

i always encourage my students to

continue doing the drills they have learned

in a parking lot or other open area of

pavement (get permission, if necessary).

From there, work your way up to side

streets, back roads, etc. (and be sure to

get your license first!). Consider starting

on roads you’re familiar with, where you

already know about the blind spots, curves,

and the surprise stop sign at the bottom

of the hill. Choose a time of day when the

daylight and traffic will be in your favor, too.

this will save you a lot of stress and allow

you to focus on your riding and awareness

(s.e.e.: search, evaluate, execute).

Remember: One of the principles of

Rider’s edge and other MsF-certified

courses is learning the skills gradually.

students begin by simply mounting the bike.

then they learn to “straddle walk” to get

the feel of the rolling machine. then they

learn to start it, then how to engage the

clutch, etc. – little by little, one new skill at

a time, only moving on when the student is

ready. Using this same approach in taking it

to the streets will save you a lot of stress.

if possible, do all of this with an

experienced rider; in other words, a mentor:

someone who will help guide you through

that transition onto the street and even

beyond. to find one, talk to someone at your

local h.O.G.® chapter or h-D® dealership.

some dealerships even offer remedial, or

“additional practice,” courses that allow you

to hone your basic skills under supervision.

Beyond the Basicsnow let’s say you have successfully

completed the transition from classroom

to parking lot to “real world” riding and are

ready to take your learning to the next level.

where do you turn?

Of course, there’s always the Rider’s edge

skilled Rider Course, or a similar MsF-

certified advanced riding class. this is a

great option for anyone looking to sharpen

their skills and learn more about safe riding

practices. talk to your local h-D dealer

or visit www.h-d.com/ridersedge to find a

course near you.

But there’s no reason to stop there! thanks

to the internet, a literal world of continuing

education is right at your fingertips. the MsF

website (www.msf-usa.org) is a great place to

start. Click on the “Library/safety tips” link

to find a vast array of articles, publications,

papers, and other information about safe

riding. Back in the world of paper and ink,

i highly recommend getting a copy of the

MsF publication Guide to Motorcycling

excellence. it contains a wealth of both

basic and advanced information that will

help keep you learning for a lifetime.

in addition, reading various motorcycling

publications is a good way to stay well

rounded on the subject. Like this one, many

have regular columns or departments about

safe riding.

A fun way to keep the learning flowing

– and encourage others to adopt a similar

attitude – is to plan an event for your h.O.G.

chapter or riding group. For example,

Rider’s edge, in partnership with the

MsF, provides an excellent video-based

course on group riding. it’s suitable for

individual self-study or for presentation to

a group. You can find more information at

www.h-d.com/ridersedge.

that’s just for starters. Again, MsF comes

through in a big way with a variety of

presentations specifically designed for use

in group situations. You don’t even have to

be a trained “expert” to lead them. though

all of them are excellent, i’m particularly

impressed with the one called “seasoned

Rider,” aimed at riders who, let’s say, have

been around the block a few times.

Click on the “host An event” link on the

MsF website for more information.

Mind and BodyFinally, a quick word about the importance

of maintaining a healthy mind and body as

part of becoming a better rider. if you’re

young and fit and full of energy, this may

not apply to you – yet. But it’s important to

realize that as we age, keeping our bodies

healthy and our minds alert may take a little

extra attention. the two go hand-in-hand:

A healthy body helps keep your mind sharp

– essential for staying safe on a motorcycle.

Also, if your physical condition becomes

a distraction while you ride – if a bad back,

excess weight, or some other ailment makes

you uncomfortable – it can take away from

your ability to s.e.e. that is, to search,

evaluate, and execute as you ride.

By keeping your body well and your mind

alert, while staying focused on constantly

improving your motorcycling skills and

knowledge, you will be a lifelong learner,

better able to safely pursue and enjoy your

lifelong passion of motorcycling.

Becky Tillman is MSF RiderCoach Trainer, Rider’s Edge® Instructor, and Rider’s Edge Regional Manager, Harley-Davidson Rider Services.

Sources: Harley-Davidson Rider’s Edge and The Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s Guide to Motorcycling Excellence.

How aBouT You? Do you have a topic you’d like to see us address in Between the Lines? Let us know by writing to [email protected].

There’s always more to learn about safe riding – with great benefits for those who keep moving forward.

By Becky Tillman

HOG 2726 HOG

It seems to me that the best road trips invariably involve some detours and improvisation. Sometimes, when we’re lucky, they also involve brand-new motorcycles. Such was the case for the three days I spent in December with photographer Josh Kurpius north and west of Los Angeles. The new motorcycle ingredient came in the form of the all-

new, just-released 2012 Harley-Davidson® Softail® Slim™ and

Sportster® Seventy-Two™ models – two fresh designs that aim

to the future by reflecting periods from the past. As for

detours and improv, what started as a three-day planned-

route trip to Death Valley hit an immediate roadblock in the

form of an all-day downpour that left us idling, twiddling our

thumbs indoors (these were photo-shoot bikes that came

with explicit instructions to KEEP THEM CLEAN).

When the rain cleared we improvised by tossing the

itinerary and mileage goals, and instead set our

far-less-ambitious sights on simply exploring major chunks

of the Angeles and Los Padres National Forests for the

remaining 48 hours. We wouldn’t realize the good fortune

of this decision until later in the trip, after we had put some

miles on this unlikely pair of motorcycles.

By John Sandberg Photos by Josh Kurpius

»

28 HOG

A product of the more-is-less approach to motorcycle design, the Slim strips the Softail experience to its elemental ingredients.

“It was time to make the engine the focal point again,” says Senior Designer Casey Ketterhagen. “So we put a Softail bike on a diet to reduce the proportions of the motorcycle.”

Much of the visual weight was removed at the rear, where a narrow 16-inch tire and chopped fender work in concert with the stop/turn/tail light combo and side-mount license plate for a clean, pure look. Uncovered fender struts continue the theme, exposing the forged steel and fasteners.

Thanks to an intentional gap between the nose of the seat and the tank, you can easily view the rigid-mounted Twin Cam 103B™ engine rumbling through the Slim’s trim waistline. It’s a powertrain finished with polished covers instead of chrome, while the black cylinders have no machined fins, all reflecting the rawboned style.

Up front is a trimmed FL front fender that exposes more of the 16-inch tire, plus what is likely to be the Slim model’s signature style element: the Hollywood handlebar with the distinctive cross brace.

Evoking the home-built customs of the 1950s, the bar was originally an accessory for pre-war Harley® motorcycles with a Springer fork. Ketterhagen suspects the name was coined because owners of that era who used the cross brace to mount lights and bags had “gone Hollywood” with excessive

Softail®

Slim™

SportSter®

Seventy-two™

accessorization. It’s finished in gloss black with matching hand controls and louvered headlight nacelle.

Other period styling cues include a gloss black cat’s eye tank console with a retro speedometer face, half-moon rider footboards, a round air cleaner cover also finished in gloss black, and gloss black hubs and wheel rims. The solo seat shape is specific to the Slim model, and the vinyl upholstery is finished in a tuck-and-roll pattern.

We cruised around Southern California on a Slim motorcycle coated in Denim Black, yet it’s also available in Vivid Black and Ember Red Sunglo.

The Sportster Seventy-Two model takes a styling step back in time with glittering metal-flake, whitewalls, and “ape-hanger” handlebar. Any similarities to the original wave of American-built choppers are purely intentional.

“In creating the Seventy-Two bike, we were inspired by the vibe of the early chopper era,” says Frank Savage, Harley-Davidson Manager of Industrial Design. “Those bikes were colorful and chromed, but also narrow and stripped down

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30 HOG

to the essentials. It’s a custom style that’s very particular to America and that California scene.”

In fact, it’s the custom culture of Whittier Boulevard – the legendary cruising street in East Los Angeles, also known as Route 72 – that inspired the model name. True to the period and the location, the Seventy-Two™ motorcycle is available drenched in that most-memorable of 1970s design elements: metal-flake.

The Motor Company reprises that sparkle with what they call Hard Candy Big Red Flake paint. It’s a new finish created by applying a black base coat, followed by a polyurethane system that carries hexagon-shaped flakes that are more than seven times the diameter of metal-flake used in typical production paint. Each flake is coated with a thin aluminum film and then tinted red. Four applications of clear coat, combined with hand sanding, create a smooth finish over the flakes.

“The final touch to the paint is a logo on the tank top and pinstripe scallop details on both fenders,” says Savage. “Each was originally created by hand, and we recreated that art in a decal for production, so they retain the appearance of hand-applied graphics that aren’t exactly perfect. The graphics are then covered with a final clear coat application.”

For those who prefer more traditional paint, the Seventy-Two model is also available in Denim Black or Big Blue Pearl.

form and narrow seat and rear end. But with a 23.8-inch seat height, it’s one of the lower Softail bikes for 2012, thanks to the 16-inch Laced wheels and slammed suspensions. As a result, this is a ground-hugging cruiser that will scrape the foot boards if you lean it far enough over into the corners.

It wasn’t such a problem, though, because those same meaty 16s work in concert with the wide, low Hollywood bar and comfortable low-slung seat to set a mood that’s far more about easy cruising than corner carving. It’s a bike you sit in, rather than on, with a clear view of the road ahead.

If the Slim model is something of a sled, the Seventy-Two model feels more like a Schwinn Sting-Ray. It’s narrow, the “apes” put your hands up high, and it feels positively light compared to the much heavier Softail. Truly, the Seventy-Two™ bike feels nimble, quick, and a bit raw. It is, after all, a Sportster, and its heritage simmers just below the surface, ready to bark when you tap into the 73 ft.-lbs. of torque from the Evolution® 1200cc V-Twin engine.

It’s probably a good thing the peanut fuel tank holds 2.2 gallons of fuel, because the range it provides gave plenty of time for my rear to experience the decidedly firm solo saddle and slammed suspension. This, plus the forward foot controls, meant I was most happy at speeds up to 70 mph and the occasional roadside stop.

So stop we did, every hour or so, whether it was to load up on beef jerky, snap a few photos, or get our palms read by a psychic. As a result, photographer Kurpius and I spent as much time talking, laughing, and checking out the sights as we did hard miles. Which is why this was one classic detour that couldn’t have turned out any better.

Other styling cues are equally retro, including the 10-inch mini-ape handlebar (mounted on a 2-inch riser), the solo seat and side-mount license plate bracket combo (delivers maximum exposure to the chopped rear fender), the forward controls, dished round air cleaner, 21-inch front and 16-inch rear chromed wheels with whitewall tires, and dual staggered exhaust with slash-cut mufflers.

Learning from Detours

We learned a few things about each of these bikes during two days of riding everything ranging from rush hour traffic on the infamous 405 to lazy stretches of the Pacific Coast Highway to snow-glazed switchbacks along the San Emigdio Mountains.

Although it shares the same engine and frame dimensions as other Softails, Slim™ derives its name from the stripped-down

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From your experience, how does a Rider’s Edge class differ

from a riding class you might take elsewhere?

Liza: Our instructor told us that the Rider’s Edge version is about 10 more hours. Some of that time is spent learning about Harley-Davidson, but it’s also a lot of extra classroom and range time.

Laura: They [non-Rider’s Edge] usually have bigger classes, too. Like maybe up to 20. Rider’s Edge will have up to 12. We had just eight.

Liza: And the personal instruction, with the extra time, I thought was really cool. Very meaningful.

Other than having more time for personal interaction, how

did the “extra time” get spent?

Jody: We got a tour of the dealership, and learned a bunch about H-D history and the Motor Company. And about the different types of motorcycles, too.

Jen: When we learned about protective gear, [our instructor] brought us into the MotorClothes® area to pick out what would be a good pair of gloves, a pair of pants, and stuff like that. She explained what we should look for with each type of protective clothing, and it was nice to be able to actually try stuff on.

Liza: At first we were a little leery of getting a sales pitch. We were like, stand back everybody! [laughter] But it was well done, with useful information.

Laura: And when you graduated, did you guys get dinner? Pizza … a little celebration?

Jody: Yeah! They give us these little certificates – everybody got some sort of award. I got “Best Braking.”

eet Jen and Jody (took all-women class together) –

Jen (24): My dad has owned Harley® motorcycles for as long as I can remember. I’ve been riding on the back of his motorcycles since I was probably 10 years old. I fell in love with Harleys then and there. All of our neighbors rode, and I have great memories of my parents going on multiple group rides with their friends. They still do. I knew I wanted to be involved in that type of culture some day. When the opportunity arose to take Rider’s Edge with Jody, I didn’t think twice about it.

Jody (38): I didn’t have any riding experience, but I’ve always been in love with cars – performance, speed, looks, etc. And I love driving! So I wanted to learn to ride in order to understand the two-wheeled culture a little better. And because I thought it would be fun.

Meet Liza and Laura (took standard class together) –

Liza (42): I had a serious moped accident when I was 17 – got hit by a truck on the way to the convenience store, going about 15 miles an hour. Shorts, sandals, no helmet – I got hurt pretty bad. I’ve been scared of riding ever since. Then a few years ago I had the opportunity to ride as a passenger, and I started thinking, “Well, maybe ….” So I felt like this was something I sort of had to do.

Laura (29): My dad works in the industry, and used to race and stuff – so I grew up around motorcycles. And I’ve seen him get hurt and a lot of his friends get hurt. So I’ve had a long-standing bias against riding. But now I’m ready to learn to ride, and I want to do it the best, smartest, and safest way possible.

M

Last August, four female co-workers in the Milwaukee area decided to take the Rider’s Edge® New Rider Course at local dealerships. None had significant riding experience. All four successfully learned to ride – and each had a unique experience she’ll remember for a lifetime. We asked them to share their experiences with HOG ® magazine.

iNtERviEW » MikE ziMMERMAN pHOtOGRApHy » MARk HiNEs

FiNDiNGtHEiR EDGE

»

Jen: How did you guys do with the figure-eight box thing? Because that was soooo hard.

Jody: See, that I could do, just by playing with the clutch.

Jen: See, if I went as slow as you, I got nervous like I was going to fall over.

Jody: I think that’s the only exercise where driving stick shift [car] on a daily basis really helped me. Because I understood the clutch and how the bike was going to move. I didn’t change the throttle, I just used the clutch to control my speed.

Liza: I wanted so badly to stay in the square. Stay in the square! Perfectionist! Stay in the f—in’ square! [laughter] But I wasn’t going fast enough to actually do it, so it was like … plop!

So what comes next? Are you planning to get a bike?

Laura: I would love to get a motorcycle right now. I’m not sure it’s going to happen – I just bought a house. But maybe my dad will read this and find something in his garage that might suit me …

Jen: My husband and I are saving for a Harley, and we hope to get one next summer. Of course, he wants a big one! But I can’t picture myself riding something like that just yet. I want to get a smaller one, maybe a Sportster.® I’m going to get my license, regardless, because I want to have it. And if we get that big bike – who knows!?

Jody: I don’t think so. It was fun, I’m glad I did it – and I do want to get the motorcycle sticker on my license. But I think in some ways I’m more afraid now than I was before. I just don’t think it’s for me. I feel safe in my car!

Liza: Totally! I’m all over it. I love the idea of a motorcycle as a cheap, reasonable, economical mode of urban transportation. I wish I had a motorcycle I could ride right now, in a parking lot, so I could keep practicing.

Jen: Actually, Jim [a riding co-worker] was saying to me the other day, “You should all just go in on one bike, keep it here at the office, and then share it!”

Laura: That’s because Jim is a genius! [sarcastic laughter]

Jen: I got “Top Turner.”

Laura: We got snarky awards! I got something about how I’m bad at the clutch. Liza’s was “Most Dumped.” [laughter]

Liza: No, I got “Most Likely to Wear Leather” – because I totally dumped it so much!

How did you like being part of an all-women class – or not?

Jen: I loved the all-women part of it.

Jody: Yeah, all-women was great.

Jen: It made me less nervous. Once we got there, and I saw all the variation in age and experience, I was like, “Okay, I can do this!”

Laura: Our class was about half women. The men didn’t make me nervous at all. But I can imagine if there was a man in there who was really experienced, or a little cocky, it might have been different. But that wasn’t a problem.

Liza: Or I could imagine feeling like, “Oh my god, I’m going to be the only woman in there. It’s going to be all dudes!” And I’m not that easily intimidated but just feeling self-conscious if I were the only woman, or if we had been the only two.

Jen: I kept thinking that if there was a guy who really knew what he was doing, and if he was, like, trying to help me too much, to tell me what to do … I might have a hard time with that.

Jody: If there were men in the class, and I felt like I was holding them back … that would be my worry. But everybody in our class seemed very excited that it was “just us girls.”

Laura: Were both your instructors women?

Jen: No, we had one male but just on the range. Both instructors were very encouraging, telling us how important women riders are to the future of H-D, and how we’re going to see more and more women riders in the years ahead.

Were you nervous when you started?

Liza: I was very intimidated. I was trying to remind myself of the other brave or difficult things I’ve done, because I was really psyched out! I was like, “But I went rock climbing, okay!? So I can do this!” And that’s where the baby steps in the beginning were really good. I was nervous. I was afraid they were going to be like, “Okay, start ’em up, hit the throttle, here we go!” [laughter]

Jody: That first day, I was actually surprised at how far we got, with all the braking and the weaving and the shifting. What did you like, or not like, about the instruction?

Liza: I felt like they were really personally invested in us. It wasn’t just that they wanted to see us do well, but it seemed like our teacher was really taking the time to get to know us.

Laura: It was like, okay, here’s a curriculum and we’ll follow it, but it didn’t seem rigid. Very personal and intuitive.

Jen: Our instructor asked us about our goals. Like, “As a first-time rider, where do you want to be in two months? Or in a year?” And, “What inspired you to ride? What are you nervous about?” She really got in touch with us and that helped a lot.

Liza: Did she tell you personal stories about her riding? That was hugely helpful to me, a real rider sharing real experiences.

Laura: Yeah, it’s like, “This is relevant because it happens all the time, and here’s what happened to me.”

Jen: Ours told us once, “I know you guys are nervous, and maybe you’re not doing as well as you’d hoped, but I was way worse [when I first learned to ride].” And that was very calming.

Liza: I felt like they gave really sound, practical advice. Like our dude, he didn’t just say, “Don’t drink and ride!” He asked us, “What is the single biggest fear that a drunk person will have if you tell them they’ve had too much?” They don’t want to leave their bike! So the tip was, if you’re going to approach a friend and tell him he shouldn’t ride home, make sure you have a plan to take care of his bike.

What was the biggest challenge? And was there a moment

when it seemed to all come together for you?

Jody: I think it was just the length of it. Toward the end of both days, I was at my limit.

Laura: Yeah, we were supposed to do two more exercises on the first day, and they were like, no, you guys are done.

Jody: Things started to click for me after I dropped the bike in the first exercise! [laughs] It kind of took the pressure off: “Well, I got that out of the way!”

Jen: To see someone else make a mistake before you do, and then realize that everyone is going to make mistakes, was a big step.

Jen: I’ve never driven a stick shift, and I was afraid that I wasn’t going to get the whole concept of using the clutch.

Liza: Ending the first day early was the smartest thing. We were all getting frustrated because our hands were so exhausted.

Laura: My clutch mysteriously got much more sensitive. That’s strange … it must have been tired! [laughter]

Liza: What he said was like … “Okay, you’re getting frustrated and tired of killing the bike, because you feel like, there’s exercises going on, there’s a line behind you, and you have to go! So stop worrying about going, and think about starting the bike moving.” And then it was like, bing! Because if you’re thinking about going, of course you’re going to let [the clutch] out too fast.

So was learning the clutch the hardest part?

Jen: That, and it was just so hot the days we took it. I was really tired at the end of the day.

Laura: It was like, “Yes, I’m tired, but it was because I learned how to do something.” It was pretty satisfying. But yeah, learning the clutch was probably the hardest thing.

“… NOW i’M READy tO LEARN tO RiDE, AND i WANt tO DO it tHE bEst, sMARtEst, AND sAFEst WAy pOssibLE.”

HOG 35

Find your edgeFor more information about learning to ride with Rider’s Edge, the Harley-Davidson Academy of Motorcycling, contact your local dealer or visit www.h-d.com/ridersedge.

HOG 3736 HOG

38 HOG HOG 39

This is a story about two riders who left town and rode west 40 years ago. The trip didn’t set any distance records. The riders didn’t visit remote and exotic locations around the globe, and no single thing they did was anything most riders haven’t done on some road trip before or since. So what was unique about this trip? The answer can be found in this question:

When did you last set out on a 3,500-mile run without a cell phone, a roadside assistance card, a GPS device, or a motel reservation – instead carrying the tent you would sleep in and food you would eat after making camp at night? Also, would you make that run on a bone-stock ’70 Sportster® or ’56 Panhead hardtail chopper?

Well, there’s your answer right there.

The year was 1972, and my good friend Jerry Mehl and I had a big idea: to take a motorcycle trip across the Southwest to backpack into the Grand Canyon. Friends since junior high, “Deputy Dawg” and I shared many interests, including photography, camping, motorcycle travel, and a desire to see the country off the main roads. This was our chance to do it all.

Two years earlier I had purchased a 1956 Panhead from my friend “Snake” Ragland for $200. He kept it under a shower curtain outside his apartment, and, needless to say, it needed some work. Over the course of about a year and a half, I fixed it up from a near basket case to a classic 1970s-style chopper.

In those days, that meant fabricating most of the parts myself – custom parts catalogs were rare. By the time I was done, my new ride featured, among other things, a modified Sportster fuel tank with hand-carved Maltese cross; a custom metal-flake airbrushed paint job, with 50 coats of hand-rubbed lacquer; a hand-welded chain-link sissy bar; and handmade twisted square-stock highway pegs to match the nine-inch-over Springer front end. I also had the motor and transmission totally rebuilt by the local H-D® dealer.

Jerry’s bike, a 1970 1000cc Harley-Davidson® XLCH Sportster, was less exotic than my own, but nearly as impractical for making a 3,500-mile journey. Saddlebags? Tour-Pak® luggage? What are those? We just strapped what we needed to whatever we could find to strap it to.

Camping equipment has changed a lot since then. Have a look at the size of the bedroll and jungle hammock on the front of my chopper. Today, these things would fit inside a touring bag. But there was something about having your bedroll strapped to the front of your scooter that gave a rider a feeling of going somewhere when where didn’t matter.

On that warm and humid morning in June, where was the Grand Canyon. But just about everything else was yet unknown. So a definite excitement hung in the air as we did a few last-minute checks on our equipment and scooters. When we were satisfied that everything was as ready as it could be, Jerry started his Sportster with his right thumb; I cranked the Panhead with my right foot. After stopping to fill our gas tanks, we were on our way west but not before making a couple more stops: We both had to tell our mothers we were off and to not worry.

Our plan, to the extent we had one, was to leave Monroe and make time to somewhere around Dallas, Texas, then slow the pace and stay on two-lane blacktop after that. Jerry was in charge of our navigation system, that being the Texaco road map he picked up to help find our way along the back roads. I liked him being in charge of that because it let me sit back with my boots on the highway pegs and enjoy the ride. All I had to do to make sure I was headed in the right direction was listen for the Sportster’s pipes.

(The pipes, by the way, were black. The chrome was sand-blasted off, and the heat-resistant paint was cured in his mother’s oven. She was not pleased. Remember, in the early 1970s there were no catalogs to order such things.)

As a rule, we made our camps miles from nowhere. No KOA campgrounds, no state parks, no “Mom-and-Pops” – just a remote spot away from lights and sounds. In terms of excitement, making camp the first night ranked right up there with kicking the motor through to begin the trip. We were somewhere west of Jacksboro, Texas when Dawg and I started looking for a place to stop. With the sun low on the horizon, we pulled far enough off the road to put a stand of tall grass and short trees between us and the two-lane blacktop. After setting up the tents, gathering wood, and cooking supper, we settled beside the campfire to let the day end quietly while our scooters cooled down in the night air of the Texas plain.

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HOG 41

Otherencounterswerememorablefordifferentreasons.OncewecameuponacaféonamountainroadinArizonaandstoppedforameal.Whenshe–callher“DesertFlower”–cametotakeourdrinkorder,itoccurredtomethatImightbemakingthetripbacktoLouisianabymyself.TheDawgnevershowsanopening,butIwaswatching,andwiththeclickofashutterrecordedforalltimehisenchantmentwithDesertFlower.Hewasenamoredandmoonstruckallinonebundle.Andembarrassed.Yep,hesurewas.

Resistingthecharmsofyoungwaitresseswasonechallenge;keepingthePanheadrollingwasanother.

Oneafternoononabroad,sweepingcurve,Ifelttherearendbegintofishtail.BythetimeIstopped,thereartirewasallbutflat.Tomyknowledge,thiswasbeforethehandyCO2inflatabletirekitsmanyriderscarrynow.WhatIdidknowishowtofindrockstosupportthebike,removetherearwheel,loaditontheDawg’sSportster,andheadbacktoasmallburgwerecentlypassedtorepairthetube.WhileIwasdoingallthework,theDawgrestedintheopensunofanIndianreservationnearTresPiedras.

WhenwefinallymadeittotheGrandCanyon,weparkedourscootersatarangerstationwarehouseandbeganourtrekdowntheHermitTrailattheSouthRim.Bythetimewehaddescendedafewhundredfeetalongthetrail,Ihadthefeelingofgettingatourinsidethelargestlivingthingonearth,asthecanyonfeltabsolutelyalive.Ononeside,awallrosehundredsoffeetstraightup;ontheother,itdroppedhundredsoffeetstraightdown.

WemadecamponthetrailandfellasleeptoundisturbedquietlikeIhadneverheard.AnduntilthatnightIonlythoughtIhadseenthestars.

Theearly1970swasatimewhenaHarley-Davidsonriderstillcarriedthestigmaofaborderlineoutlawandwasoftenviewedwithsuspiciouseyes.Wegotpulledoverby“TheMan”morethanonce,fornoapparentreason.Onetime,whiletwoTexaspolicemenwerecheckingoutusandourbikes,abunchofteenagersacrosstheroadgroupedatDairyQueentowatchtheshow.Whenthecopscouldn’tfindanythingwrongandsentusonourway,thekidsallcheered.Verycool.Wewavedinappreciationoftheirsupportandrodeon.

Small-towngasandfoodstopswerealsoexceptionstothe“outlaw”perception.Whilefuelingup,afriendlyvoicemightaskwhereyouwerefromorwhereyouweregoing.Iftherewasanoldtimeraroundhewouldwanttoknowhowfaryoucouldmakeitonatankofgas–agoodthingtokeepinmindinthedesert!Butcuriositymoretypicallycenteredaroundthemystiqueofthemotorcyclesthemselves.Dawg’sSportsteralwaysdrewonlookers,butthealienlinesandradicalappearanceofmychopperalwayscalledforcloserexamination.

40 HOG

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42 HOG HOG 43

Today,the“CanyonRun”remainsamarkerforJerryandme.Heoncetoldmehestillsmileseverytimehethinksofit.Sure,werodetogetherbeforethatrun,tooktripswithotherridingbuds,sataroundothercampfires.Sincethattime,we’vedonethesameonHarley-DavidsonEvosandTwinCams.TheDawgcurrentlyridesa2010StreetGlide.®Ihavea’96Softail®CustomthatmywifeandIrodetwo-upontripstogetheruntillastJunewhenweboughtan’09Ultra.Andyes,I’vekeptmy’56Panhead.

Butthat1972adventureremainsaclickortwouptheadventurescalecomparedtohowweridetoday.Beforethrowingalegoverthetrustedsteed,Ioftennowaskmyself,“Gotthecellphone?”AndthenIchuckle.MybuddyJoecarriesmorecommunicationdeviceswithhimthanNASAprobablyhadonthefirstmoonmission.IusetheCBradiowhenonatripwithhimbecauseitmakeshimhappy.Butpersonally,Ipreferjustthesoundofthetwinpipesandthewind.

Thedefinitivequestionremains:WouldIdoitagain?WouldIstraddlethat1956Harley-Davidsonmotorcycleloadedupwithcampingequipment,leavebehindthearrayofelectronicdevicesJoecarries(thoughperhapsmakeroomforoneemergencytirerepairkit),andheadwestagainwithDeputyDawg?

Crank’emup,I’min.

AndthatwaitressinKanab,Utah?TurnsoutshewasrightaboutColorado:Wecouldn’tgettherefromwherewewere,notbackthenanyway.Troubleis,thesamethingisnowtrueabout1972.

Butmaybethat’sjustaswell.

SEA

SKYThey say the road to hell is paved with good intentions,

but thankfully the road to Hell’s Gate is blacktop. No doubt that

makes for better riding.

STory & PHoToS by

Glen Abbott

from

to

When explorer Simon Fraser came upon this narrow, treacherous gorge with its towering rock walls and churning rapids in 1808, he wrote, “We had to travel where no human being should venture, for surely we had encountered the gates of hell.” I might be mistaken, but he seemed to be saying this was a bad thing.

I’m on day two of riding British Columbia’s “Coast Mountain Circle Route,” a tour mapped out by Vancouver Coast & Mountains Tourism, which offers an abundance of scenery, history, and twisty roads. Starting in Vancouver and following Canada’s Gold Rush Trail northeast from Langley to Lillooet, the 400-mile journey winds through parts of the Coast, Cascade, and Cariboo Mountain ranges before descending through Whistler on its return to the Pacific.

My journey starts east of Vancouver in Langley, where I pick up a gleaming Road Glide Ultra at Barnes H-D. A friendly group from the Langley H.O.G.® Chapter welcomes me with coffee and donuts from Tim Hortons. You can’t swing a dead cat in Canada without hitting a Timmies – they’re as Canadian as beer, back bacon, and Bob and Doug McKenzie – fictional brothers who starred in the 1980s SCTV “Great White North” skits of a mock TV talk show in which they poked fun at enduring Canadian stereotypes. “People have the impression that because

’m in the wind aboard a 2011 Harley-Davidson®

Road Glide® Ultra, breezing through Fraser Canyon, following the path of the mighty Fraser River through Canada’s westernmost province. Although it took the waterway millions of years to carve out this spectacular canyon, my canyon carving will take considerably less time.

I

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HOG 45

Clockwise from this image: Anderson Lake near Lillooet, British Columbia. Be on the lookout for falling rocks in Fraser Canyon! The Olympic rings monument in Whistler, site of the 2010 Winter Olympics. A roadside rest at Duffey Lake Road, outside Lillooet.

46 HOG HOG 47

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we’re in Canada, we live in igloos” says Paul De Bei, Director of the Langley H.O.G. Chapter. “We don’t. We get a fair amount of rain, but our winters are quite mild. We have members who ride year-round.”

Indeed, light rain greets us as we leave the dealership’s parking lot. Chapter members Mike Baynes (a.k.a. “Mike Trike”) on his 2011 Tri Glide® Ultra Classic® and Larry Lowe on his 2009 Screamin’ Eagle® Ultra accompany me for the first day’s riding. They’ve generously offered to show me some of Langley’s highlights en route to Harrison Hot Springs, where I’ll spend the night. “You can ride all types of roads within 50 miles of here,” Mike says. “You’ve got mountains, flats, twisties, and farm roads.”

Larry leads us past cranberry bogs and along the curvy, wooded banks of the Fraser River. Our first stop is Fort Langley, the birthplace of British Columbia and the jumping-off point

of Canada’s Gold Rush Trail. The fort, established in 1827 by the Hudson’s Bay Company to trade furs with members of the indigenous First Nations tribes, supplied thousands of prospectors who poured into the area following the discovery of gold along the river in 1858. The renovated compound is now a National Historic Site and a much-visited attraction. When we pull up, the lot is jammed with school buses, and uniformed schoolchildren queue up to enter. “I’m 57,” Larry says. “I used to come here on elementary school field trips. It’s really part of our heritage and great to see they still keep bringing kids here.

After a look around, we continue our journey. Purple and yellow wildflowers dot the roadside along the river and low-hanging clouds partly obscure the Coast Mountains in the distance. Mike and Larry lead me to the nearby Fort Wine Company. Due to its climate and fertile soil, British Columbia

is home to some excellent wineries. “We’re becoming a notable terroir,” Ted Bowman of the winery explains. After trying a small sample, I purchase a bottle of their Valley Girl Blueberry Wine to enjoy at day’s end.

Continuing, we glide past farms planted with blueberry patches and cross the river at Abbotsford onto Route 7, running along the Fraser’s northwest bank. We pass sawmills and logging trucks laden with massive cargoes of cedar and fir. We chow down in Harrison Mills at a favorite biker hangout called Sasquatch Inn, (locals claim the legendary giant Sasquatch lurks in the nearby woods). From here, it’s only a few miles to Harrison Hot Springs, where I’ll call it a night and the others will return to Langley.

The tranquil town of Harrison Hot Springs is notable for its stunning green glacial lake and thermal springs. First used by the indigenous First Nations peoples thousands of years ago,

the springs were later “discovered” by weary prospectors during the 1800s gold rush. The arrival of the railroad in the late 1800s marked the town’s beginnings as a resort community. From the balcony of my room at Harrison Hot Springs Resort & Spa, I settle in with some blueberry wine and watch the sun set over Harrison Lake.

In the morning, I roll east along Scenic Route 7, breathing in the cool air and admiring the lush, green, tree-covered mountains. I can’t resist stopping in the town of Hope, whose slogan is “The Chainsaw Carving Capital of the World.” More than 50 artistically sculpted tree trunks are scattered throughout town, homage to the art of the chainsaw. As an added tourism bonus, “Rambo: First Blood” was filmed in Hope in 1981, a fact sure to be appreciated by film aficionados.

At the town square, I walk over to inspect a giant chainsaw-carved grizzly bear sculpture. Returning to my parking spot, I find a family of visitors from Taiwan excitedly taking turns photographing each other next to my Road Glide. They ask me to pose with them as well; always the cultural ambassador, I happily agree.

Hopping onto the Trans-Canada Highway, I enter Fraser Canyon, riding through the towns of Yale and Spuzzum, excited

Clockwise from above left: Duffey Lake Road – Highway 99 – can be closed in winter due to avalanches. The British Columbia provincial flag welcomes visitors to Hope. Water thunders over rocks at Shannon Falls, Canada’s third-highest waterfall. Chillin’ in Hope, the “Chainsaw Carving Capital of the World.” The glacial waters of Harrison Lake at Harrison Hot Springs really are this green!

In the morning, I roll east along Scenic Route 7, breathing in the cool air and admiring the lush,

green, tree-covered mountains.

»

to note that I’ll be able to use the word “Spuzzum” in my article, a rare opportunity for a professional motojournalist.

At Hell’s Gate, I park and take the Airtram, an aerial gondola that descends from the mountaintop into the canyon at the river’s narrowest and deepest point – Simon Fraser’s infamous “Gates of Hell.”

“Pretty good view, eh?” exclaims another visitor. Seventy-seven-year-old Fred Johanssen is thrilled to learn that I’m visiting Canada on a motorcycle. “Every time I hear the sound of a Harley® motorcycle, my heart beats faster,” he says. “I’d love to get one.” Fred and his companion Elaine Vinnels are on vacation from nearby Victoria. “You know when you travel and see the beauty of your country, you feel a lot of pride,” she says. “It makes me feel like singing our national anthem with enthusiasm!”

At Lytton, I turn off the Trans-Canada onto Highway 12 to Lillooet, a lightly traveled route that follows the river’s twisty path. In places, massive lengths of industrial chain-link fencing line the slopes of the steep canyon next to the narrow roadway, put there to (hopefully) arrest the descent of any errant boulders that choose to tumble from above.

A stone marker and plaque denote “Mile Zero” of the Cariboo Wagon Trail in Lillooet. The trail funneled prospectors north into the Cariboo gold fields during the 1860s. At its peak, the town was said to be the largest in North America west of Chicago, second only to San Francisco.

The next morning, I cross a one-lane bridge over Cayoosh Creek and ride south on Duffey Lake Road – Highway 99 – toward Pemberton. “Better gas up at Lillooet. You won’t see a house for 100 kilometers,” another rider had advised me the day before. “It’s the best riding in the lower mainland, coveted by Vancouver motorcyclists,” he added. This section of 99 twists, turns, and climbs through the snowcapped Cariboo Mountains, with very little traffic – truly spectacular riding. From one twisty turn into another, I find myself rarely shifting above third gear. Riding through the clouds, I encounter signs warning “Avalanche Area,” and the light mist briefly changes to stinging frozen pellets in the rarified mountain air. Duffey Lake Road wasn’t even paved until the early 1990s; it must have been thrilling on a dirt bike!

Approaching the outskirts of Pemberton, I come upon stopped traffic and see a mama bear and her cub loitering in the road ahead. Stopping a safe distance away, I notice she is guarding another cub, which is lying motionless in the road after apparently being struck by a vehicle. It’s a sobering reminder to always be alert for wildlife on the roadway.

Pemberton is known as a “foodies’ paradise,” and I break for a satisfying lunch at a place called The Pony. The area is recognized for its fresh, organic produce; in fact, the Pemberton Distillery distills its vodka from locally grown organic potatoes, an admirable use of organic produce, if you ask me.

From Pemberton, I continue to Whistler, site of the 2010 Winter Olympics. Whistler is known the world over for skiing, outdoor recreation, and stunning scenery. “You’re surrounded by nature here,” Breton Murphy of Tourism Whistler tells me. “Temperate rainforest, alpine hiking, and pristine lakes.” And in case you ever happen to be a contestant on Jeopardy, I’ll pass along this interesting (to me, anyway) fact: Whistler was named for the sound made by the hoary marmot, the largest North American ground squirrel, sometimes known as the “Whistle Pig.” I’ll take “Mountain Varmints” for $100, Alex.

Rumbling out of Whistler in the morning, the air is fresh and cool as the sun peeks out from between snowcapped mountains. I continue the sweeping, panoramic descent through the Coast Mountains and Howe Sound to Horseshoe Bay outside Vancouver. The Sea to Sky Highway – Highway 99 from Pemberton to Horseshoe Bay – is frequently cited as one

of Canada’s most beautiful rides, with its snowcapped peaks overlooking sparkling glacial waters. At an overlook, I stop to photograph a pair of jagged mountain peaks glowing golden in the morning sun. “Ugh, another snowcapped mountain,” jokes an Australian tourist who stopped to take the same photo.

At Squamish, I park and hike into the woods at Shannon Falls Provincial Park, site of Canada’s third-highest waterfall. Walking down the path, you hear the roaring falls before you see it. Near the base, a fine mist permeates the air as the water cascades from more than 1,000 feet above and batters the rocky ledges below. Not far away, rock climbers prepare to ascend the impressive Stawamus Chief, a massive granite dome that towers more than 2,000 feet above sea level and is part of the area’s iconic scenery.

Back on the Sea to Sky, I contentedly cruise past Horseshoe Bay and into Vancouver, recalling something H.O.G. member Samir Bhagat told me in Langley: “The beauty of this place is we have everything. We’ve got the ocean, the mountains, the valleys, and we’re very close to the border so we’re very accessible.”

Amen, bro. I couldn’t have said it better.

Read more of Glen Abbott’s adventures on his blog, www.TravelinGringo.com.

48 HOG HOG 49

G e T T i N G T H e r e

the 411 on 604Vancouver is little more than a hop, skip, and jump from the U.S., but remember to bring your passport. The city is about 150 miles north of Seattle, in the Pacific Time Zone. If you ride from the U.S., be sure to carry your registration and proof of insurance. If you fly into Vancouver International Airport (airport code YVR), Trev Deeley Motorcycles is about 12 miles away and offers Harley-Davidson® Authorized Rentals. Vancouver’s climate is moderate, although weather conditions can vary greatly throughout the province depending on whether you stay near the coast or venture into the mountains. Vancouver, near sea level, averages less than 20 inches of annual winter snowfall, while Whistler Mountain averages more than 400 inches. For additional British Columbia tourism information, visit www.hellobc.com or www.vcmbc.com.

View to a thrill: Even in June, the peaks of the Tantalus Mountains are snow-covered.

This section of 99 twists, turns, and climbs through the snow-capped Cariboo Mountains, with

very little traffic – truly spectacular riding …

drink wisely Wear

sunscreen

Ride to a state you’ve never been to

Fly there and

rent a Harley

(or two)

Fly by the seat of your pants

Choose a

nearby

rallyfor a day of adventure

Choose one twodays away for an

epicjourney

Bring a

friendMake new ones

Bring a book

Take lots of

pictures

Bring your

familyget away from your family

Go on a destination

rideexplore the area on your own

Bring your H.O.G.

touring Handbook

use it to check helmet laws

Buy some t-shirts

Visit lots ofdealersHips

laugHa lot

Map your route carefully

Stop for

pie and ice cream

Try new foodsVisit a

national

park

blogabout your experience

Wave to fellow riders

EntertHe slow ride

Laugh at others in the slow ride

Ride straightRead the

Historical

markers

stay up lateGet up early

relaxPack some

comfortable shoes

Bring a swimsuit

Go to a

museum

Introduce yourself

Embrace the

local culture

Take the

long way

Home

rock

out Look up an old

friendStop to

enjoytHe view

Stop for no reason

Eat something

deep-fried

on a stick

Phone homeCheck your oil and

tire pressure

enterthe Ride in Show

Stay hydratedTurn off your GPS and

get lostGo to the

ride in sHow

HOG 51

staterallies

waysto love50

u.s. STaTE H.O.G. RaLLIES offer nearly 50 great opportunities each year to set out for a memorable adventure, around the corner or across the country. To whet your appetite, here are half-a-hundred ways to help you get the most from your state rally experience.

50 HOG

®

®

®

Ride. Fish. Get paid

to do both? Now

we’Re talkiNG! I put

down my issue of HOG®

and began roughing out

how I would combine two

of my favorite things to

do into a trip – for less

than a “Benjamin.”

My plan? Add the FXDC model to my annual September solo

fly-fishing trip – shed friends, spouse, and everyone else to scout

new waters, try new tactics, and just get away for a few days.

A week into September, I loaded the Dyna® motorcycle’s

pack with waders, rain jacket, chest pack, net, box of flies, and

two reels. I grabbed some granola, Gatorade, and jerky I keep

around for a day of fishing or out on the fields with the dogs.

I threw in an old-school compass and a half-pint of Mr. JD for

good measure, and I strapped two fly rods to the pack.

When the second Monday in September rolled around, I was

ready. After the morning school bus passed the house, I headed

west into Columbia County, and I left the land of the wind

turbines behind.

Southwest Wisconsin is filled with hills, coulees,

and delightful snaky roads. In the “hollows,” ground

water is forced from the earth to form cold

limestone creeks – perfect habitat for trout. I would

fish two creeks I was slightly familiar with. I didn’t

want surprises on this trip, like miles of rutted

gravel roads or no safe place to park the bike.

I rode through Randolph, Cambria, and then

Pardeeville, passing quiet Amish homesteads. West

of Portage, I picked up a skinny county road that

headed north and then west. After about a mile, I

spied a coyote. It popped out from the grasses on

the left, sprinted across my path, and went into a

cornfield. So far the roads I picked were empty, and

the solitude of the ride was more than welcomed.

The irony of this was that I was headed toward one

of the biggest visitor attractions in the state: the

Wisconsin Dells. But that stop wasn’t in my plan.

Just to its west are several state parks and wildlife areas that

contain trout water – my first fishing destination.

A gravel pull-off was as I remembered. A few minutes to pull

on waders, grab rods and gear, and then I headed into the prairie

grass. This stretch of trout stream has a barrier to it that all but

the brave avoid. To reach the downstream lie and fish your way

up, one has to bust through a few hundred yards of dense prairie

grasses that tower over most heads and know the route without

the aid of sight. Once in the water, I felt I could have been in

Montana or Wyoming, the sounds were only of nature. Man’s

mark was missing.

Blue sky, high sun, and temps in the 80s – great for riding

but not ideal for fly-fishing. Yet the water was cold, (61 degrees),

and the trout were keyed on a classic late-summer fly pattern,

the hopper. This stretch of water kept me busy for more than

five hours. I hooked and released several nice brown trout; wood

ducks dropped in occasionally; and finally I walked out upstream,

where the creek passes the road.

Back on the bike, I continued west, riding through Reedsburg

and Ironton. I settled into a long stretch of winding and hilly

blacktop with only LaFarge to mark the midway point of my next

destination, Westby, Vernon County. A setting sun silhouetted

the road signs so I concentrated on those and struck a rhythm

with the sinuous roads.

The Central Express Inn in Westby provided gas; dinner; and

a quiet, clean room for the night. The morning brought more

blue sky and a strong wind. A short trip on the bike took me

northwest to Timber Coulee Creek. Unlike the creek I fished the

day before, this water parallels Highway P and has a number of

easy-access sites. Because of this and its high-quality fishery

reputation, it gets fishing pressure. The trout here were not

interested in the hopper pattern. They were keyed on a small-

bug hatch this early morning – midges or blue-wing olives.

Fighting the wind, I took a few browns early with a tiny Griffith’s

Gnat pattern. Then it was over. Trout, clearly seen in the cold

gin-clear water, ignored everything I threw to them. Nymph

patterns drifting down to the depths of deep holes were ignored.

The sun, the clear water, and the time of day shut ’em down.

By mid-afternoon I was back on the bike, happy, not skunked,

and heading east. The fish cooperated, so did the weather. The

cost for this epic adventure: $77. Miles logged: 304.

The $100 Challenge If you have a $100 Ride story to share, we want to see it. If it appears in HOG® magazine, we’ll even foot the bill – in the form of a $100 Harley-Davidson™ Gift Card. Keep your story to 750 words or less, including a list of your expenses. We also need photography from your adventure, including a photo of you. E-mail your submission with “$100 Rides” as the subject line to [email protected].

$100

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Epic Dolla

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Angling for a RideBy Tom Gawle

52 HOG

HOG 55

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54 HOG

A Monumental ViewMY FRIEND JOE HUGHES TOOK THIS SHOT FROM HIS 2008 ROAD KING® motorcycle on the way to Moab, Utah to visit Arches National Park. The area around Monument Valley, Utah; the Four Corners; Cortez, Colorado; and north to Moab hosts several beautiful national parks and monuments, but the roads in between are almost as spectacular. A snowstorm in the Rockies altered our travel plans earlier that day or we would have missed this view entirely. The biggest mistake of the trip was not allowing enough time to do justice to the beautiful parks we visited. We had spent several hours earlier in the day photographing the cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde National Park before riding the “Trail of the Ancients” north into Utah. We got to Arches National Park late in the day and still had several hundred miles to go before our stop that night in Beaver, Utah, so we didn’t have nearly enough time to visit all the different viewpoints in the park. What a pleasure it must be to have weeks or even unlimited time to just ride and explore. Someday!

CRAIG LIBUSE

SAN MARCOS, CALIFORNIA

HOG 57

RULES OF ENGAGEMENT

To celebrate their engagement, Stephen and Amy (my son and now daughter-in-law) went for a ride on his lowered 1999 Road King. What else would they do? After serving five years with the U.S. Navy on a deployment aboard the U.S.S. Teddy Roosevelt, Stephen is now completing his degree. When he graduates next spring, the plan is to go to Officer Candidates School and return to active duty as an officer. Amy is a nurse working at a local doctor’s office. He and Amy are now happily married and meet up with us to go riding as often as possible.

STEVE TURLEY, SR.

FRANKLIN, TENNESSEE

TRIBUTE BIKE

I’m submitting this photo of my 2007 Road King Firefighter Edition in honor of the firefighters who lost their lives on September 11, 2001. It was taken on Memorial Day 2011 at the Radnor Township Volunteer Fire Department, where our son Rob is a firefighter. Several years ago, we were working like fools fixing up an old farmhouse for Rob and his wife. I let everybody know that when we finished I was going to get myself a big, fat Hog – and the rest is history. My wife and I have enjoyed many thousands of miles on this bike. We love going for ice cream and riding to the many festivals in Ohio, as well as taking the occasional long journey. I’m looking forward to retirement – and the chance to really see this great country of ours on our Harley-Davidson® motorcycle.

CHRIS HEAVILIN

RADNOR, OHIO

56 HOG

Enthusiasts

GIDDYUP!

Seven years after retiring from the U.S. Army in 2003, I finally got the opportunity to scratch my “seven-year itch” and buy my first Harley-Davidson motorcycle. Carefully selecting a model that would suit a proud Texas cowboy from San Antonio, I went with a 100TH Anniversary Heritage Softail® Classic Gold Key Collectors Edition. With saddlebags, western-faired conchos, whitewall tires, wire-spoke wheels, lots of leather trim, and the factory-colored paint scheme on the tin set, it resembled the colors found on an Appaloosa horse. In the year since, I’ve been very fortunate to gallop across 13,000 asphalt miles while riding through 14 states and living the total H-D lifestyle. Customizing my scoot into a true iron horse and taking three first-place trophies in national bike shows is just one of the many highlights. It has been so exciting and rewarding for me and my significant other, Ms. Amie Lou, that I just cannot find words to fully describe my experiences or emotions.

FRANK “ROPER” FEDLER

SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS

MOVING UP IN THE WORLD

I have been riding for about 11 years, but I’m not very big so I didn’t think I could ever ride a Harley® motorcycle. Since that’s the only

bike I ever wanted to ride, I decided to hang it up. But my fiancé at the time (now my husband) told me I could do anything I wanted

and talked me into test riding a V-Rod® model. Once I rode it, I fell in love instantly – and rode it to Sturgis that very year. Later I decided

I just had to have a Softail Deluxe – and then rode that for about 30,000 miles. Today I own a Street Glide® that I have put 32,000

miles on – so far! My husband and I have ridden to Canada and all over the western United States. In 2012 we plan to head to Laughlin (for the fourth time) and Arizona Bike Week. Life is awesome being

able to enjoy my favorite thing in the world – riding my Street Glide as often as I can.

NANCY WILKINS-HEMSTAD

GREENWOOD VILLAGE, COLORADO

SWITCHING TO THE SWITCHBACK

When my husband, Rodg, saw the picture of the new Harley-Davidson Switchback on the cover of a recent

HOG® magazine, and then read the story by Mike Zimmerman, he fell in love. He immediately headed for Golden Spike H-D®

for a test drive. That sealed the deal – he had to have one. I had been wondering what to get Rodg for an upcoming birthday and thought

the Switchback would be the perfect gift. I ordered one in Rodg’s favorite color, red, just like the picture on the magazine cover.

He put 500 miles on the Switchback the first week – he's thrilled! Part 2 of the story is that I'm now riding Rodg’s Screamin’ Eagle®

Softail Convertible – so I’m thrilled, too!

SHARON “SMILEY” SELANDER

OGDEN, UTAH

BACK HOME IN INDIANA

After returning home in March 2011 from 42 months in Afghanistan, I decided to spend the summer of 2011 putting some miles on my

1994 Heritage Classic. After burning up 8,400 miles of the Indiana roadways, I believe my mission was a success. Along the way I

decided to stop and “save the moment” at any spot I found that would show Indiana and its beautiful historical sites, with the

American history of Harley-Davidson in mind. From abandoned airplane runways and old filling stations from the 1930s to beautiful

barn sides from the 1800s, I rode around the state enjoying every mile, reflecting on how truly blessed we are to be Americans in the

land of the free.

ROBERT COX

BUNKER HILL, INDIANA

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IRON BOBBER

I'm 40 years old and have been riding since I was 9. My pops started my brothers and me young on a Suzuki OR50, and we all fell in love with riding the first day we sat on the bike. Through the years we have ridden on- and off-road – mostly metrics, but I finally graduated to American-made when my custom Honda bobber was stolen. I purchased a new 2009 Buell® XB12Scg. I love my Buell but still longed for the bobber. A few years later I dropped by my H-D dealer to purchase some oil when I saw the Iron 883.™ I always wanted a Nightster,® but the full black treatment of the Iron 883 punched me in the mouth! As I was drooling over the bike, a super-hot sales woman snatched me up and made me such an awesome deal that I ended up walking out with four quarts of oil and a 2011 Iron. A few mods later, and here she is. Good for now, but more to come!

MARCO BELTRAN

SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA

58 HOG

EnthusiastsEnthusiasts

LET THE SUN SHINE IN

My daughter Annie Belle and I enjoyed having a “nature day” on my 2002 Screamin’ Eagle Road King. The gray and silver flames seemed to come alive through Cottonwood Canyon in Utah’s untamed canyons and mountains on an Indian Summer day we’ll never forget.

BILL SATTREE

SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH

SUPER SPOUSE

After 16 years of riding two-up with me, my wife, Sue, bought this 2011 883 Sportster® Superlow. After more than 5,000 miles of intermediate-length trips, we struck out in August 2011 for what would be a 4,700-mile adventure, she on her Superlow and me on my 2008 Anniversary Edition Ultra Classic® Electra Glide.® We left our home in a steady rain that lasted until Chicago, and managed to cover 12 states in 15 days, venturing through Custer National Park, the Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, the Big Horn Mountains, Little Big Horn, then on to the Mackinac Bridge, and back home. Rain or shine, Sue always had a smile on her face, ready for whatever came next. Just to verify what a great wife she is, when we got home she encouraged me to trade the “old” Ultra for a 2012 CVO™ Ultra Classic Electra Glide! Can’t wait for next year’s trip!

GLENN RILEY

GREENVILLE, PENNSYLVANIA

ADDICTED TO LOVE

After 23 years of building a career in real estate, boredom was setting in. I decided to just get my motorcycle license – for the experience of getting qualified. But the minute I threw my leg over that training bike I knew I was in trouble. Addicted at first straddle! As soon as I finished the class I rented a Heritage from a local dealer. Actually, I rented it over and over again – until a few months later I was sliding into the saddle of my very own 2006 Road King Classic, and riding it out of southeast Florida and all over the Carolinas, Arkansas, Oklahoma, Kansas, and beyond. Before I knew it, the Road King became a 2009 Ultra Classic. I was riding seven days a week, rain or shine. In short, falling in love with Harley-Davidson motorcycles is a driving passion (pun intended). More like an addiction, really, putting on 115,000 miles in less than three years and still going strong. I admit it, I’m addicted. And loving every minute of it!

MARK LENSON

BOCA RATON, FLORIDA

A DROP IN THE BUCKET LIST

I turned 30 this year and wanted to check a big item off my bucket list: ride Highway 95 up to Gold Point, Nevada with my dad and uncle. Gold Point is an old mining ghost town that has been preserved and rebuilt by Sheriff Stone and a host of other helpers. My uncle lived there in the early 1990s, and I always thought it was a pretty cool place. I own a 2011 Fat Boy® Lo but couldn’t afford to ship it out west – so I called Las Vegas Harley-Davidson and reserved two Street Glide motorcycles for my dad and me through the H-D® Authorized Rentals program. My uncle called from Florida and did the same. It couldn’t have been easier. The day of the ride we picked up our bikes, and with the wave of a pen we were off. When we got to Gold Point, the town looked even better than I remembered. It was like riding into the Old West on steel horses. It was the ride of a lifetime thanks to Harley-Davidson and Harley Owners Group.® Now I can’t wait to book my next ride. Maybe Denali. There’s a dealer in Wasilla, Alaska calling my name ….

SHAWN MILLER

GAHANNA, OHIO

HOG 59

SEND YOUR SUBMISSIONS for Enthusiasts to [email protected]. Be sure to include high-quality photos, as well as

your name, address, phone number, and e-mail address. You can also mail submissions to Enthusiasts, c/o HOG magazine, P.O. Box 453,

Milwaukee, WI 53201.

60 HOG

Enthusiasts

49 OUT OF 50 AIN’T BAD

We purchased a 2002 Electra Glide Classic in the summer of 2010, became H.O.G.® members, and then started some serious riding: left for Sturgis on August 3 and rolled back into the driveway on October 10 after taking a “wrong turn” and winding up in Key West. After taking the requisite picture of the Highway 1 ending point, we decided to see the other end and took off for Fort Kent, Maine. In February we trailered (ice and snow!) to Springfield, Missouri and rode down to the southernmost tip of Louisiana. Then it was on to California and back home, arriving on April 1. When the weather turned nicer

we decided to do the Alaska State H.O.G. Rally in Fairbanks in June – 3,641 miles one way! When all was said and done, we had hit all four “corners” of the U.S. and rode through 49 states in exactly a year – camping 95 percent of the trip. So many stories, so many miles, so many smiles.

DANIEL WEBSTER AND BARB DAVIS

ST. PETER, MINNESOTA

ONLY GENUINE HARLEY-DAVIDSON® CLEANING PRODUCTS ARE CUSTOM FORMULATED TO CLEAN, PROTECT, AND DETAIL the premium surfaces of your Harley-Davidson

motorcycle. Metal. Paint. Leather and vinyl. Wheels and tires. Windshields. They’ll all look better for longer when you trust them to the company whose name they bear.

©2012 H-D. Harley-Davidson, H-D, Harley and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC.

H-D.COM/SURFACECARE

linings, and is embedded into the mesh lining for increased

evaporative cooling and natural odor resistance. Because it’s

embedded into the fabric, Cocona will not wear or wash out like

most waterproof/breathable coatings.

Compartmentalizing your riding gear has never been easier

thanks to an all-new exterior front pocket system that graces the

men’s jackets. Utilizing large waterproof zippered chest panels that,

when opened, reveal multiple pockets, the new system offers ample,

well-organized storage.

Versatility is an area where FXRG jackets continually excel, and

the offerings for 2012 are even greater. Six zippered air vents – two

each on the shoulders, front, and back – deliver truly customizable

temperature regulation. Likewise for the PrimaLoft® removable

warmth liner, which can be worn separately as a casual jacket.

Other features are equally impactful and underline FXRG’s

ride-engineered status: a removable kidney belt for core support

on long rides; removable, lightweight body armor at the elbows

and shoulders for extra protection; and 3M™ Scotchlite™ Reflective

Material in the piping, taping, and graphics provides enhanced

visibility of up to 500 feet in clear low-light riding conditions.

The FXRG Textile Jackets also feature appliquéd micro-armor

SuperFabric® at the elbows and shoulders for 10-times greater

abrasion resistance than standard textile. Likewise, the leather

jackets are reinforced with heavyweight leather at the elbows and

shoulders for increased abrasion resistance.

All four jackets are backed by a limited lifetime warranty and

are available now at Harley-Davidson dealerships.

62 HOG

Ge

ar

Next Generation FXRG®

Highest-performance Riding GearThe Genuine Harley-Davidson® MotorClothes® FXRG®

riding gear line has comprised the company’s flagship designs and

technology since its introduction in 1998.

For 2012, the high-performance FXRG line throws a little more

twist to the throttle with newer materials and thoughtful, inspired

designs that improve comfort, versatility, and the entire riding

experience. From helmets to jackets, gloves to pants, nearly every

FXRG item has been refreshed and is worth further investigation.

Most notable, however, are four reengineered FXRG jackets: the

men’s Leather Jacket with Pocket System (98040-12VM), the men’s

Textile Jacket with Pocket System (98378-12VM), the women’s

Leather Jacket (98034-12VW), and the women’s Textile Functional

Jacket (98368-12VW).

The men’s Leather Jacket is midweight cowhide leather and

the women’s is lightweight cowhide leather, each constructed with

a water-repellent treatment and inner membrane to create a fully

waterproof jacket. Both the men’s and women’s Textile Jackets

are made from waterproof 1000-denier nylon. All FXRG jackets are

loaded with smart, ride-focused technology.

Staying dry in all weather conditions and temperatures is a

fundamental requirement for FXRG riders, and the new line delivers

on that promise with Cocona® Natural Technology,™ which consists

of naturally derived microporous fibers from coconut shells and

other natural sources that provide unprecedented breathability

while maintaining wind- and waterproof performance.

Cocona Natural Technology is used in a waterproof/breathable

membrane that lies between the jackets’ outershells and mesh

Clockwise from upper left: men’s Leather Jacket with Pocket System, women’s Leather Jacket, men’s Textile Jacket with Pocket System, women’s Textile Functional Jacket.

THE ROAD TECH™ ZUMO® 660 AND 665 GPS NAVIGATORS. Glove-friendly touch-screen. Built-in dealer database. Easy to read in bright sunlight.

Two-year warranty.H-D.COM/ZUMO

©2012 H-D. Harley-Davidson, H-D, Harley and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC.

By all accounts, William Butler Johnson was a model servant. He and his wife, Anna, worked happily for the Paulsen family – first in Baltimore, Maryland; later in Somers, New York – for many years. William was the chauffeur; Anna maintained the Paulsen home. When Mr. Paulsen died, they lost their jobs. This unfortunate occurrence, history would show, was ultimately to their great benefit.

By then William and Anna had established themselves as respected members of the Somers community. With the help of some friends in high places, they were able to purchase a home, along with the former blacksmith shop behind it. Johnson converted the shop to a garage and soon gained a reputation as “a most reliable, honest, and skillful mechanic.”

Along with his business, Johnson also developed a keen interest in motorcycles and racing. Hillclimbing was just coming into its own, and he soon proved himself a fearless, natural talent. When the American Motorcyclist Association (AMA) inquired about a piece of property called Somers Hill, as a site for hillclimb competitions, Johnson used his influence with the owner to help the deal go through. The owner would lease the property but only if Johnson was allowed to participate in the races; at the time, AMA policy prohibited non-white competitors in sanctioned races. The AMA relented, Johnson broke the color barrier, and was soon ranked among the top climbers, noted for his natural ability on the toughest courses.

The sport was not without challenges, however, even for Johnson. During a race in the late 1930s, Johnson lost several teeth when his motorcycle reared back and the handlebar struck him in the mouth. Many said the accident would have seen lesser men hang up their puttees, but Johnson was soon back in the saddle.

As Johnson’s business decreased, he turned to dealing Harley-Davidson® motorcycles in the early- to mid-’20s, making him the first African-American Harley-Davidson dealer known to date. According to Johnson’s friend, Piet Boonstra, “Johnson loved the sport, loved motorcycles, and loved people. He was a genuine motorcyclist in every fiber of his being, and there wasn’t

a motorcyclist for miles around who didn’t know and like him.” He was reported to refuse to sell a motorcycle to someone he felt was not serious about the sport or not prepared to handle a large bike. By caring more for the rider than the money, he earned the admiration of riders and non-riders alike.

Johnson was also known as a sharp dresser and very conscious of his appearance – which is why a lump on the back of his neck, the result of many unsuccessful climbs, always bothered him. Doctors told him to never allow anyone to remove it. However, after being taken to a New York City hospital after slipping on an icy driveway at age 82, a physician convinced him to have the lump removed. Tragically, whether from the accident itself or complications from the operation, Johnson lost the use of his arms as a result.

Despite this new challenge, Johnson maintained his dealership by moving into a room at his shop. Even without the use of his arms, he could still listen to a motorcycle, determine what was wrong, and advise which tools to use to fix it. According to Somers residents, people made special trips to visit the man who had introduced them to motorcycling, or mentored them to be responsible and courteous riders. They didn’t come because they wanted something; they came to spend time with a friend.

In 1985, at the age of 95, William B. Johnson died quietly at his shop. For years following, riders continued to drop by the shop to inquire about him. Residents say that with each pronouncement of his death, the reaction of the inquirer expressed the feeling he or she had lost a friend.

William B. Johnson did not set out to break any barriers; he was simply an industrious man who wanted to work and provide for his family. He wanted to enjoy his interests, motorcycles, and motorcycle racing. He wanted to enjoy the relationships he developed with his community, customers, and fellow riders. Most of all, he wanted what most people want: to live his life – which he did to the fullest.

Come see artifacts from the dealership of William B. Johnson – on loan from the Somers Historical Society, Somers, New York – and other displays celebrating the evolution of motorcycle culture through the eyes of African-American riders at the Harley-Davidson Museum.

The Harley-Davidson Museum® in Milwaukee has more unexpected stories to share. To plan your visit, go to www.h-dmuseum.com.

William B. Johnson: Pioneer

64 HOG

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11D00103_HOG.indd 1 6/3/11 9:07:08 AM

Hear that sound? To most people, it’s just the sound of an electric

garage door opener. To me, it’s sweet, sweet music – because it

means ride time is here.

As the door rises and the opening grows large, the light of a

new day spills inside. Outside I can see a few lingering shadows,

sneaking away to hide for another day. Finally, after what seems

a time without end, the bottom of my unwitting barricade

reaches the top, and the high-pitched

sound of metal rollers scraping through

metal tracks subsides.

As I stroll over to the motorcycle parked

along the south wall, I indulge myself by

taking a few moments to admire the gently

flowing lines on the machine that’s about

to transport me away. I’m fascinated by

the engineering and craftsmanship that

went into this two-wheeled people-moving

creation. The designers and builders of

these bikes should be proud of their efforts,

and I always enjoy the visual experience

while I’m doing my pre-ride walk-around.

After deciding everything is roadworthy,

I reach with my left hand into the leather

windshield bag for my riding glasses;

my right hand, meanwhile, gently and instinctively rocks the engine

switch to the ON position. I turn the fuel switch clockwise to begin

the starting procedure, listen to the fuel injection do its thing, and

slip on my riding glasses. Once my specs are properly seated, I put

on my helmet, snug the chin strap, and am ready to ride.

Hitting the starter button quickly brings the Softail® bike’s power

plant to life. The gentle rumbling of the idling engine never fails to

produce a sense of excitement.

Taking a few extra seconds to enjoy the soft purr of the

Harley® motorcycle at idle, I count my blessings and consider

myself very fortunate indeed! Many people have motorcycles;

not all get to experience the special thrill of riding a Harley-

Davidson® model.

As I ease my right leg over the saddle and settle in, I know I’m

in for a wonderful time. As I slowly increase the RPMs, I gently

release the clutch, and the ground begins

to move backward beneath my feet as I

embark on my journey. It’s always amazing

to notice the little things along the way.

While taking just an instant to gaze at

a tree, I observe the various shades in

its leaves and the hues of grass growing

beneath it. Then a quick glance upward

reveals a beautiful blue sky garnished

here and there with puffy white clouds.

Lowering my eyes back to the road, I catch

a glimpse of a pair of songbirds crossing

my path at a very low altitude. Perhaps

they’re off for breakfast at their favorite

feeding ground.

As I continue to roll along, I notice that

my speed has climbed to a whopping 14

miles per hour as I traverse the 70 feet from the garage door to

the end of our driveway. Turning onto the main road and shifting

into second gear, I wonder what the next 70 feet will bring.

It’s ride time. And my adventure is already well underway.

Jim Hobelsberger is a H.O.G.® member living in La Crescent, Minnesota.

Ride Time BY JIM HOBELSBERGER

66 HOG

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IT’S NOT JUST AJOB IT ’S KEEPING A LEGEND ALIVE

Get hands-on training and learn about everything from basic engine theory to Screamin’ Eagle® performance. Surround yourself with people like you who know that it’s more than just a motorcycle. And do it all at the only technical school in the country that provides a 100% Harley-Davidson approved program and nationwide graduate placement*.

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Programs vary by location. Financial aid and VA benefits available to those who qualify. VA benefits not available at all campuses. *MMI cannot guarantee employment. Motorcycle Mechanics Institute is a division of Universal Technical Institute. MMI’s Orlando campus is a branch of

Universal Technical Institute of Phoenix, Inc. ©2008 H-D. Harley, H-D, Harley-Davidson and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, Inc.

For more information about our graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed the program, and other important information, please visit our website at www.uti.edu/disclosure.

HOG® MaGazineP.O. BOx 453, Milwaukee, wi 53201

1-800-CluBHOG (1-800-258-2464)

414-343-4896 (Outside u.s. and Canada)

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©2012 H-D All RigHts ReseRVeD. PRiNteD iN tHe U.s.A.

WILD WEST THUNDER — JUNE 10–17 We ride through California, Arizona, Nevada, and Utah, experiencing the Mojave Desert, Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Monument Valley, and much more. Don’t miss out.

BATTLE CRY — SEPTEMBER 26–29 We experience the Smoky Mountains and Civil War sites riding through Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee via the Cherohala Skyway and twisty Tail of the Dragon. Join us.

2012 U.S. NATIONAL H.O.G. ® TOURS – REGISTER MARCH 1

Join H.O.G. in 2012 for two riding adventures as big as America itself: Wild West Thunder (June 10–17) and Battle Cry (September 26–29). Registration opens March 1 at members.hog.com. Mark your calendar now.