This is haida gwaii - TAdSWII'• Kaats'ii Hla
49
COMPLIMENTARY This is haida gwaii TAdSWII’ • Kaats’ii Hla SUMMER 2019 PEOPLE | CULTURE | PLACE YOUR HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNER GOHAIDAGWAII.CA | HAIDANATION.CA
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Transcript of This is haida gwaii - TAdSWII'• Kaats'ii Hla
COMPLIMENTARY
This is haida gwaii
TAdSWII’ • Kaats’ii Hla
SUMMER 2019
PEOPLE | CULTURE | PLACEYOUR HAIDA GWAII TRIP PLANNERGOHAIDAGWAII.CA | HAIDANATION.CA
Editor SIMON DAVIES
Designer | Illustrator JENNIFER BAILEY
Advertising Management ALANAH MOUNTIFIELD, JANINE NORTH
Contributors GRAHAM RICHARD, ANDREW HUDSON JASKWAAN BEDARD, NESTAQANA STACEY 'JAGS' BROWN,
GREGORY GOULD, TAAWHLUUWAD MARY HELMER, MIRANDA POST, NANG KAA KLAAGANGS ERNIE GLADSTONE, TRACY MARRS, SGIID KUNG VANESSA BELLIS, JENNY NELSON,
BRIANNA JULIAN, JARROD FREGIN, LAURA BISHOP, LAWRENCE JONES, PHOEBE DYKSTRA, GUY KIMOLA,
MONICA PHUNG, OWEN PERRY, ILEAH MATTICE, DESTINATION BC
Council of the Haida Nation
Haida Gwaii Tourism
@CHNHaidaNation
@HGTourism
@CHNHaidaNation
@GoHaidaGwaii
The name of this publication, This is
Haida Gwaii, is bracketed by two phrases
– tadswii’, which is in the HlGaagilda
Xaayda Kil Haida southern dialect, and
kaats’ii hla, in the Gaw Xaad Kil Haida
northern dialect. Both phrases are a
response to a knock on the door – come
on in! The phrases acknowledge a guest’s
presence, and welcome them into the
house, and that’s what this publication
is – an acknowledgment and welcome to
you into our home.
Soaring above Taaw Tow Hill. Photo: Gregory Gould
Want to advertise in This is Haida Gwaii? Contact [email protected] or call 250-559-8050
Copyright © Council of the Haida Nation | goHaidaGwaii | 2019
All artworks © the artists
All texts © the authors
All images © the photographers and/or holding institutions
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any
means, without the prior written consent of the publisher, the Council of the Haida Nation | Go Haida Gwaii
sii.NGa summer EDiTiOn
SanggAd
4 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 5
Welcome to Haida Gwaii, you show your self-respect by coming. Haawa for following your heart and accepting the pull of our homeland.
Whether you have arrived by sea or air you are meant to be here, right now, as our guest. For many of the people of Haida Gwaii there is a strong belief that everything is connected and that everything happens for a reason. With this in mind please accept the responsibility of being a good guest in our home. There are many ways to demonstrate this. One way is by sharing and practicing reciprocity. We are sharing our lives with you, our knowledge, food, water, lands, homes, families and communities.
In honoring your invitation to visit us, it is important to give back to this place
and to contribute more than you have taken. This is how we maintain balance
here. Balancing our needs as people with all of the creatures who share their
lives and territory with us. We also must balance our relationships as hosts
and guests and with the supernatural forces that surround us. When our rela-
tionships are disrupted and become out of balance this is when we end up in
trouble as human beings. Here humans are equal to all of the rest of creation.
We are no more important than any other being, large or small.
So, as you move about and experience all the magic our home has to offer,
please take a moment to appreciate all of the small things and beauty that sur-
rounds us. Reflect upon your life and your place within this world and how you
can give back and make things better for the future. You are here for a reason,
you don’t have to search for why, if you move with respect the truth will reveal
itself. A wave crashing, a hummingbird flying, a whale breaching, an eagle calling
or a raven stealing your lunch – all happening around us – and we are all part of
creation, so please act accordingly.
Ging gang da yahgudangs ang.Ga da Kaa Kyang.ga Gil ga.
You show your self-respect by coming.
Gaagwiis
Gaagwiis Jason Alsop
President of the Haida Nation
Photo: Owen Perry
A clam shell pathway guides the way at T'aanuu.
A NOTE ON HAIDA LANGUAGE USE: In this publication, the geographic
location of the story determines which dialect is used. For the stories located
north of Gamadiis Port Clements we use Gaw Xaad kil and for those south of
Gamadiis we use HlGaagilda Xaayda Kil.
6 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII
Haida Gwaii Institute is located on the ancestral,
traditional and unceded territory of the Haida Nation.
SK’AADGA GUD AD IS, LEARNING TOGETHER
Education at the edge of the world
The Haida Gwaii Institute is a cross-cultural, community-based education and research
post-secondary institution that is governed by both the Haida Gwaii Higher Education
Society and University of British Columbia’s Faculty of Forestry.
The institute offers transformative post-secondary undergraduate and professional
development programming in the areas of Indigenous/non-Indigenous relations,
community resilience, natural resource management and marine conservation.
To find a course right for you please visit hginstitute.ca.
8 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 9
Located on the Government Wharf in Queen Charlotte, we are open daily for sport
fish receiving from 4-7pm via boat to the lower dock or vehicle to the plant.
Our federally inspected facility will: portion, vac pack, blast freeze, and pack your
freshly caught catch for next day pickup or we can arrange delivery to Sandspit Airport.
We carry a variety of frozen local & BC products that you can add to your box to take home.
250-559-4784
www.albion.ca
Custom Sport Fish Processing
Located at the end of the causeway on the Government Dock in Queen Charlotte, we are open Daily from June through
Labour Day between 4-7pm for sport fish receiving via boat to the lower dock or vehicle to the plant.
Our Federally Inspected Facility Will:Portion, vac pack, blast freeze and pack your fresh catch for
next day pickup. We carry a variety of frozen products that you can add to your order to take home. Come see us about ice,
wholesale seafood, and air travel packaging.
(250)-637-1792
cresthotel.bc.ca 1-800-663-8150
Located inside the Airport terminal, the
Sandspit Visitor Centre provides helpful
guidance, souvenirs and a collection of
art and artisan products from Haida Gwaii.
Stop in before your flight home to pick up
the perfect gift.
Transportation can be a challenge to
arrange in Haida Gwaii. The Sandspit
bus offers service in town and beyond.
Booking ahead is recommended.
Give us a call and we’ll help get you on
your way.
VISITOR CENTRE
Conveniently located across from the
Airport Terminal, the Sandspit Inn offers
comfortable accommodation and a full-
service restaurant and bar. Stop in before
or after your flight, stay one night or many
and enjoy the warm welcome of Sandspit.
The Sandspit Community Society is an incorporated not-for-profit society that operates for the benefit of the community of Sandspit. The Society is run by a volunteer board of residents who wish to sustain the economic and social well-being of our community by sustaining local businesses and social projects.
SANDSPITBC.CA
250-637-5362 250-637-5377 250-637-5377
[email protected] [email protected]
SANDSPITGateway to Moresby Island and Gwaii Haanas
10 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 11
2 UNIQUE ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS
2 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE HAIDA GWAII
LUXURY MEETS ADVENTURE
Escape to the spectacular west-coast of
Haida Gwaii and explore ancient Haida
villages where few have set foot, dine on
gourmet meals, and relax in luxury un-
common for such remoteness.
OCEANHOUSE.CA · 1.800.605.3785
THE HEART OF ISLAND CULTURE
Conveniently located in the village of
Tlell, this cozy lodge is the ideal base
from which to enjoy the many cultur-
al experiences the Island has to offer.
Self-guided options also available.
HAIDAHOUSE.COM · 1.855.557.4600
Learn more about lodge amenities, package
inclusions and excursions online.
DISCOVER THE EDGE OF THE WORLD HAIDA GWAII, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Timeless Voices, Living Culture
Haida Heritage CentreAT KAY LLNAGAAY
Experience the living culture of the Haida
haidaheritagecentre.com250-559-7885 | [email protected]
2 Second Beach Road, P.O. Box 1523Skidegate, Haida Gwaii, B.C. V0T 1S1
Haida Gwaii Museum | Trading House | Daily Guided Tours Throughout the Summer
Open Year Round
Canoe House | Performing House | Bill Reid Teaching Centre | Carving Shed Cafe | Meeting Rooms Available for Rental
Pho
to ©
Ro
lf B
ett
ner
12 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 13
A & A TRADING
Our forest management decisions integrate environmental,
cultural, and economic interests. We build mutual understanding
through relationships and information sharing.
Respect. Transparency.
Innovation. Entrepreneurialism.
A&A TRADING (HAIDA GWAII) LTD.
COMMITTED TO RESPONSIBLE
STEWARDSHIP
A&A Trading (Haida Gwaii) Ltd. forester identifying a
Pacific crab apple tree which has protections under the
Haida Gwaii Land Use Objectives Order
www.aatrading.com
Summer Store Hours:Monday to Saturday: 9:00am to 6:00pm
Tuesday open until 7:00pm | Sunday: 9:00am to 4:00pm
Phone: 250-637-2249/2447
Email: [email protected]
Fresh meat, produce, ice, dairy,
grocery items. In-store bakery.
Rural Agency Liquor Store.
Locally owned and operated.
SANDSPIT
1514 Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/Business Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/BusinessMeet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com
L vehaidagwaii
.com
CHARLISLE
Queen Charlotte’s original general store opened in 1967 and it’s still going
strong today. Stocked with an eclectic blend of a little bit of everything, visitors
and locals alike will find a variety of goods from clothing and accessories to
housewares and souvenirs.
• Family owned and operated
• Clothing, housewares, gifts, toys, fabric and
souvenirs
• A real old-fashioned general store with a
little bit of everything :)
250-559-8444 • 104 Causeway • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
ABSENCE OF
TIME HOUSE
Opened in July 2006, this romantic get away dances with light through
its large skylights and generous windows overlooking the bay. The one-
bedroom, fully contained suite downstairs offers a private queen bed with
two additional queen-size Murphy beds. Upstairs, guests will find a fully
contained three-bedroom suite.
• Two high-end, fully contained
accommodation suites available
• Private and quiet
• On the shore of Skidegate Inlet
604-616-7091 • 3808 Oceanview Drive • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
ABALONE
EYES HOUSE
Abalone Eyes House is where you peek at the world and think “I should have
been a poet” or “wish I didn’t have to work — this is where I would have
retired” or simply “I could easily live here.” I say “it’s lovely” I am sure you will
agree - outfitted from head to toe - although I don’t think abalone have either
of those things - but you almost view the world as they see it. See it for yourself,
you will know what I mean.
• A modern, clean, two-bedroom and fully
contained waterfront suite
• Amazing views from the shore of Skidegate
Inlet
604-616-7091 • 3604 Oceanview Drive • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
SHINGLE
BAY BISTRO
Fresh. Delicious. Convenient.
Enjoy a cup of coffee, breakfast or lunch with friends or while you wait for your
flight!
Hours: Daily 8:00a.m. to 9:30 a.m. and 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
• Cafe serving up coffee, hot drinks and so
much more!
• Hot breakfasts or lunches while you wait for
your flight
• Baked goods and cold drinks
1 Airport Road • Sandspit
sandspitadventures.ca 1-888-637-2210 [email protected]
Sandspit Adventures offers a full
service fishing and eco-lodge, on
the edge of Sandspit, BC.
With 20 plus rooms to accommo-
date groups up to 40 at one time.
Our cozy lodge has a relaxed
atmosphere, comfortable rooms,
amazing cuisine and spectacular
views.
discover the possibilities
TOURS - BOAT TRANSPORTATION - KAYAK RENTALS
[email protected] | 1-800-806-7633
GOING TO SKIDEGATE OR QUEEN CHARLOTTE
COST $27 CASH OR $30 DEBIT/CC
Haida Owned & Operated since 2016
Phone 250-559-4461 • eagletransit.net
WELCOME TO HAIDA GWAII
NH Connections Haida Gwaii • Freight Services • Taxi
Departs the airport 15 minutes after plane arrives
EAGLE TRANSITAIRPORT SHUTTLE
L vehaidagwaii
.com
GREENROOT
GUESTHOUSE
Greenroot Guesthouse is an artisan-designed centrally located vacation
rental available for nightly and weekly rentals. The accommodation can
be found in a local heritage building that has been lovingly restored and
renovated to offer an artistic and relaxing vacation get away.
Email [email protected]
• Hand-worked, original design, bright and
attractive
• Centrally located near shops and the marina
• Situated above local art gallery
250-551-4611 • 3201 Oceanview Drive • Queen Charlotteislandwisehaidagwaii.com
Breathe it inHandcrafted soap & body products
1716 Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/Business Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/BusinessMeet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com
L vehaidagwaii
.com
THE LAST
RESORT
The Last Resort is the perfect home base to explore all that Haida Gwaii has
to offer. Each suite features brand new furniture and decor. Enjoy comfortable
queen beds, a modern kitchen, relaxing sitting area, large walk-in showers,
a covered deck lounge with barbecues and more. Laundry services are
available for a small fee.
• One- and two-bedroom suites
• Conveniently located close to the ocean and
features fabulous mountain view
• Email [email protected] or
403-304-2037 • 621 2nd Ave • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
PREMIER
CREEK
LODGING
Warm. Eclectic. Funky.
Comfort and hospitality await visitors to Haida Gwaii at Premier Creek Lodging.
Centrally located, the hotel is a stone’s throw from the ocean and within easy
walking distance of shops, the post office, laundromat, library and restaurants.
More information at haidagwaii.net/premier/
250-559-8415 • 3101 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte
• Spacious rooms with spectacular ocean
views
• Kitchenette rooms available
• Hotel plus backpacker’s cottage
L vehaidagwaii
.com
SWORD
FERN INN
Unique. Personal. Relaxing. Comfortable.
Sword Fern Inn (formerly Dorothy & Mike’s) is a reflection of the
independent spirit of the people who choose to make the islands “at the
edge of the world” home. Each room, each suite is unique, with its own
special ambiance and amenities. swordferninn.com
250-559-8439 • 3127 2nd Ave • Queen Charlotte
• Range of accommodation options
• Attention to detail
• An authentic taste of the local culture
• Email [email protected]
L vehaidagwaii
.com
HAIDA GWAIIFISHING CHARTERS
Come fishing with us around the pristine waters of Haida Gwaii.
Experience rich wildlife, beautiful remote scenery, and bring home
unforgettable memories. Book your adventure now!
haidagwaiifishingcharters.com | michaelmayrcreates.com
•World-class salmon and halibut fishing
• Fishing adventures and wilderness tours
with a professional guide
• Charters available from Masset and Queen
Charlotte (upon request)
250-637-1056 • Masset • [email protected]
L vehaidagwaii
.com
SUN
STUDIO
Inspiring. Uplifting. Empowering.
Sun Studio is dedicated to yoga instruction as well as promoting arts and
culture within the community of Queen Charlotte. To see our class schedules
and for more information, go to sunstudiohaidagwaii.com
250-637-1571 • 403 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte
• Yoga and meditation classes for all levels
• Art and dance classes for kids
• Creative and dynamic classes, with
engaging workshops
L vehaidagwaii
.com
JUNEBUG CAFÉ & GIFTS
Cozy. Eclectic. Family friendly.
If you haven’t already checked it out, Junebug Café and Gifts is the perfect
spot to enjoy a little treat after a day full of adventure. This cozy, family-friendly
establishment checks all the boxes: a sunny deck, decadent gelato, fair-trade
coffee, aromatic espresso, snacks, goodies and so much more!
• Quaint and cozy cafe serving up fair-trade
espresso, gelato and so much more!
• Showcases a large selection of locally made,
sustainable products and delicious treats
• Regularly hosts workshops and social
events for the community
778-260-1234 • 223 Oceanview Drive • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
HOWLER’SPRIVATE
LIQUOR STORE
Situated on the corner of Wharf Street and Oceanview Drive, facing the ocean
on the ground floor of the Misty Harbour Inn. Make this “one stop” liquor store
your choice for your adult beverages and accessories. Make sure you check out
our selection of cold beer, ciders, and coolers - we’re pretty proud to say it’s
probably the widest selection in the Northwest!
• Private liquor store
• Full selection of spirits, wines, coolers
• Open seven days a week, excluding
Christmas Day
250-559-8600 • [email protected] • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
CHATEAU
NORM
Welcoming. Breathtaking. Natural.
Relax on the deck of Chateau Norm while drinking in the sights and
sounds of the Canadian Galapagos.
chateaunorm.com
250-559-8455 • 4112 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte
• Beautiful oceanside accommodations on
Haida Gwaii
• A relaxing location for experiencing the
natural wonders of our islands
• An unforgettable experience
GwaiiTaxiandTours.ca
Taxi
250-637-1162
Tours & Rentals
250-559-2380
Skidegate & Queen Charlotte area
• 15 passenger van – for tours or charter
• Vehicle Rentals – later model sedans, SUVs, 4X4, trucks and mini-vans
• Tours – custom designed island tours
We are pleased to offer licensed taxi services with airport access for the communities of Queen Charlotte and Skidegate; as well as custom, comfortable, hassle-free tours, booking services and vehicle rentals.
All major credit cards accepted!
Visitor Centre
250-559-8316 [email protected]
queencharlottevisitorcentre.com
3220 Wharf St, Queen Charlotte
Open year round
Summer hours: 9a.m. to 7.pm., seven days a week
Inside our longhouse-inspired, wheelchair-accessible centre you
will be greeted by our friendly and resourceful staff.
We offer a local artisan gallery, an extensive gift shop, a touch
tank saltwater aquarium, a media area screening local DVDs, and
a 3D map table of Haida Gwaii. Also available are washrooms, a
waterfront picnic area, a large parking lot, and Wi-Fi.
Queen Charlotte
Wharf Street (across from Visitor Centre),
Queen Charlotte, Haida Gwaii
Phone & Fax: 250-559-8623
Organic Groceries, Local Foods,
Produce and Dairy Products,
Local Fish & Seafood, Cheeses, Books,
Bodycare, Vitamins, Gluten Free Foods
L vehaidagwaii
.com
SKYFALL
COTTAGE
Modern. Natural. Relaxing on the Ocean’s Edge.
“Beyond Awesome! What a superb location & fantastically friendly owners. They
go above & beyond to make us feel at home” -John Hermsen, Footprint Nature Explorations
Book with [email protected] or Airbnb.ca/rooms/20136532
facebook.com/skyfallcottagehaidagwaii Skyfall-cottage.business.site
250-614-8128 • 3520 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte
• New oceanside two-bedroom, two-bathroom
retreat with full modern kitchen and laundry
• Perfect accommodation for two couples
• Five minute walk to the centre of Queen
Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
THE
PHANTOM
KITCHEN
Delicious. Good Food. Family friendly.
The Phantom Kitchen is located at 321 Oceanview Drive, in front of the Hecate
Inn. Our vision is to bring in our delicious Filipino culture and tie it with the
beautiful resources of Haida Gwaii.
Email [email protected] and on facebook The Phantom Kitchen
• Serving up delicious and hearty food-truck fare
• Local Halibut in a San Miguel batter
• Soul food to feed everyone
At the Hecate Inn • 321 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte
1918 Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/Business Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/BusinessMeet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com
L vehaidagwaii
.com
ECHO BAY
LODGE
Echo Bay Lodge offers guests the privacy and feel of seclusion and
solitude but with the convenience of being close to the amenities
and services of Queen Charlotte. Bring your catch of the day back
and cook it on the lodge’s gas barbecue or fire pit while enjoying the
meticulously-groomed, landscaped yard and flowering gardens.
•Minutes from downtown Queen Charlotte
• Dynamic ocean view
• Locally owned and operated
250-559-4595 • [email protected] • Queen Charlotte
PiraeusTHE CHARTER KETCH
Join us for 4- and 7-day sailing adventures
in majestic Gwaii Haanas
sailpiraeus.com250-360-6184 • [email protected]
Travelling on a traditional wooden sailing vessel • Comfortable, safe, and
spacious • Kayaks available • Embrace nature and ancient villages •
Create lasting memories in Gwaii Haanas
L vehaidagwaii
.com
HAIDA GWAII
LAW OFFICE
Andrea J Turton legal counsel with offices located in Queen Charlotte,
serving all of Haida Gwaii.
• Full-service lawyer with 19 years service to
Haida Gwaii
• Criminal law, civil litigation, conveyancing,
notary services, family law, small claims,
ICBC and more
250-559-8909 • #106 101 Causeway St • Queen Charlotte
Forbes Pharmacy Haida Gwaii IDA
3209 Oceanview Drive
Queen Charlotte
p: 250-559-4910 f: 250-559-4915
• Transferring your Prescription is Easy
• Free Blister Packs
• Free Delivery
• Medication Reviews
• Vaccinations & Travel Medicine
• Flu Shots
• Compounding
• And many other pharmacy services
powered by
SENIORS DAY
Every Wednesday is Seniors Day - seniors 55 or better save more.
20%OFF
Applies to all in store products, with the exception of lottery, stamps, gift cards, prescriptions and behind the counter medications. Other exclusions may apply.
L vehaidagwaii
.com
J&T FAMILY
RESTAURANT • Excellent service, great food
• Eat-in or take-out available
• Centrally located in Queen Charlotte
•Watch for lunch buffet service
250-559-4204 • 3223 Wharf Street • Queen Charlotte
Family friendly restaurant serving a delicious offering of Chinese and
Western cuisine. L vehaidagwaii
.com
SPRUCE
POINT LODGE
Revel in the sounds of gently lapping waves and aquatic birds from the
expansive deck of Spruce Point Lodge. Each guest room features a private
bathroom, TV and Wi-Fi plus a private deck entrance. Breakfast is delivered to
your room every morning, where you can enjoy eating in your cozy quarters or on
the deck while you watch the sun rise over your lovely ocean view.
• Clean, comfortable private rooms
• Beautiful location with ocean view
• Delicious breakfast delivered to your room
250-559-8234 • [email protected] • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
MISTY
HARBOUR
INN
Welcome to the Misty Harbour Inn! Our “non-host” hotel is the perfect
location for your visit to Queen Charlotte and Haida Gwaii. Choose one of
five newly renovated rooms for minimum three-day rentals with access to a
common kitchen. Enjoy our stunning views and convenient location.
Book online through AirBnB.
• Comfortable and cozy accommodation
• Central, convenient location
• Beautiful view
[email protected] • 3200 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte
PADDLE GWAII HAANAS | EXPERIENCE HAIDA GWAII
GUIDED GWAII HAANAS EXPEDITIONS
DAY OR MULTI-DAY TOURS OF HAIDA GWAII
BIKE, KAYAK, PADDLE BOARD RENTALS
gckayaking.com | 250.637.1093
L vehaidagwaii
.com
THE GWAII
LAND TOUR
COMPANY
The Gwaii Land Tour Company provides land tours to all areas of Haida Gwaii.
Our tours start and end in Sandspit and Queen Charlotte, visiting the most
popular tourist locations that Haida Gwaii has to offer. We provide a BBQ
salmon lunch and an experienced local guide to teach people about
the cultural, artistic and historic sites of Haida Gwaii.
• Land tours to all areas of Haida Gwaii
• Knowledgeable local guide
• Delicious salmon lunch
250-637-1677 • [email protected] • Queen Charlotte
lumber • building • plumbing • electrical • paint • outdoor living
clothing • household supplies • wood stoves • flooring • tool rentals
Helping build, renovate & repair homes on Haida Gwaii for over 30 years
250-559-4417
amsbuildingcentre.ca
706 Oceanview Drive
Queen Charlotte
Mon - Sat 9am to 5pm The helpful place.
L vehaidagwaii
.com
CHARLOTTE
ISLAND TIRE
Charlotte Island Tire offers a full-service gas station and automotive repair
shop, and tow services as well. Great vehicles, great prices. Offering customer
service excellence since 1974 and a certified BCAA contractor.
Open 8a.m. to 5:30p.m. Monday to Friday, Saturday 9a.m. to 5p.m., closed on
Sunday. Ask us about our vehicle rentals.
• Gasoline, diesel
•West End Auto Sales
• Automotive repair
• Towing services
250-559-4641 • Queen Charlotte • [email protected]
Enjoy everything Haida Gwaii offers
Sandspit 250-637-5688
QC 250-559-4641
2120 Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/Business Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/BusinessMeet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com
L vehaidagwaii
.com
HIGHLANDER
MARINE SERVICES
Highlander Marine’s high-speed catamaran landing craft can transport
crews, large and small equipment, vehicles, freight and more! Their
aluminum vessels are the best for handling the weather and sea
conditions of the north coast and Haida Gwaii.
highlandermarine.ca
• Specialized marine transportation and
freight services
• Reliable service to all of Haida Gwaii and
North Coast
• Project management, trip consultation
planning and logistical support
250-637-1111 • 750 Oceanview Subdivision • Skidegate
L vehaidagwaii
.com
OCEAN VIEW
PUB & GRILL
The Ocean View Restaurant, Pub & Grill boasts a stunning harbour view while
our team create great meals with fresh ingredients. The pub has been locally
owned and operated for over 30 years and you will find something fun to do
here every night we are open. Come and experience our brand of Haida Gwaii
hospitality! Also available at 250-559-8008
• A food experience you won’t forget
• Centrally located - Eat-in or take-out
• Live music, karaoke, billiards & more
• Catering and private rentals on request
• Best pizza in town
250-559-8503 • 3200 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
GRACIE’S
PLACE HOTEL
Enjoy a spectacular view of the inlet, fishermen’s dock and the natural beauty
of the Queen Charlotte area. Guests can choose one of four rooms designed
for one to two guests, or a two-bedroom home appropriate for families and
larger parties. TV, Wi-Fi & cell service. Kitchenette rooms are also available.
graciesplace.ca
• A warm, friendly, homey experience
• Centrally located with a view of the harbour
• Over 30 years providing accommodations in
Queen Charlotte
250-559-4262 • [email protected] • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
CASSIE’S
COTTAGE
Fully independent one-bedroom cottage on oceanfront property in Queen
Charlotte. Steps from launching canoe/kayaks. Complimentary bicycles to
explore our community and beaches. Personal fire pit to relax around and soak
in the panoramic views. Enjoy your day with a spectacular one-of-a-kind sunset.
Email [email protected]
778-260-0195 • 408 Oceanview Dr • Queen Charlotte
• Cozy water front Accommodation
• Kitchenette & private covered outdoor
cooking /sitting area
•Walking distance to all amenities
• Find us on Facebook Haida Gwaii’s Cassie’s Cottage
L vehaidagwaii
.com
HAIDA GWAII DESIGNS & SIGNS
A diverse shop producing professional quality cut-vinyl and digital-vinyl
signs. We also provide professional photograph printing, custom T-shirts,
and general photocopying. Steve has many years of experience in the
graphics field to assist you, from design layout to production.
• Photocopy and printing centre
• Photographs printed on digital canvas
and framed
• Custom T-shirts designs
•We make all kinds of signs
778-230-9871 • Queen Charlotte • 1201 Oceanview Drive
3301 Oceanview Dr., Queen [email protected]
P 250-559-4423 1-800-665-9606
OceanfrOnt • Kitchenette • family • BachelOr rOOm
Pet friendly • enjOy Our Ocean View
restaurant On the Premises
L vehaidagwaii
.com
SAPPORO JAPANESE RESTAURANT
Take a meal at Sapporo Japanese Restaurant in Queen Charlotte and
enjoy fresh and delicious Japanese sushi, sashimi and other delectable
dishes. The restaurant is wheelchair accessible and offers a selection of
beer and wine. Hours vary by season.
• Authentic Japanese cuisine
• Fast and friendly service
• Fully licensed
• Dine-in or take-out
250-559-8855 • Queen Charlotte • 127 Oceanview Drive
L vehaidagwaii
.com
HECATE
INN
The Hecate Inn provides a comfortable, relaxing environment for guests
no matter how short or long their stay is. The motel rooms feature
handmade furniture, cable TV, a convenient kitchen, comfortable beds,
Wi-fi and nice private bathrooms.
Email is [email protected] or check the website hecateinn.ca
• Ocean and mountain view lodging
• A home away from home
• Service with a smile
250-559-4543 • 1-800-665-3350 • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
FUNK IT!
Original. Dynamic. Exciting.
Find your inner designer at Funk It! You’ll be delighted by the eclectic
inventory of furniture, lighting, home décor and gift items inside.
• Furniture and home décor items
• Seasonal garden centre
• Housewares and local gift ware
• Excellence in customer service, satisfaction,
and appreciation
250-559-4753 • 3208 Wharf St • Queen Charlotte
L vehaidagwaii
.com
TAAW NAAY
GAS STATION
Taaw Naay Gas Station is the last stop for gas until you reach Port Clements.
Stop in for gas and snacks on your way north. We are open year-round, 7 days
per week and offer tax exempt sales of tobacco and fuel with your status card.
Winter hours: 8:30am to 9:00pm
Summer hours: 8:00am to 10:00pm
• Gasoline, diesel, motor oil and air
• Convenience store with snack and drinks
• Propane cylinder refills
• Lottery, ATM and tax-exempt fuel & tobacco
250-559-4455 • 838 Hwy 16 • Skidegate
L vehaidagwaii
.com
KIM GOETZINGER
MASSAGE
THERAPY CLINIC
Soothing. Caring. Relaxing.
Kim Goetzinger Massage Therapy Clinic provides hands-on treatment that will
get you moving and keep you healthy.
250-637-1685 • [email protected] • Skidegate
• Registered Massage Therapy treatments
• Individual Health Classes, education and
outreach programs
• Extensive training and experience in
massage therapy
L vehaidagwaii
.com
DUFFY’S
GUESTHOUSE
Duffy’s Guesthouse will provide you with comfortable accommodations in a
beautiful setting. There are three relaxing options to choose from, ranging from
luxury vacation home to quaint cottages, all with panoramic ocean views. Each
rental offers a flat-screen satellite TV, free Wi-Fi, toiletries, parking, and more.
Duffy’s Guesthouse has it all.
• Three accommodation options: luxury home
and two lovely cottages
• Flat-screen TV, Wi-Fi, home amenities
• Gorgeous views of Skidegate Inlet from a
private terrace
250-559-8944 • Queen Charlotte • [email protected]
TOTEM to TOTEM MARATHONSaturday JULY 20, 2019SKIDEGATE - HAIDA GWAII
Marathon Half-Marathon 10 km Run
For Information & Registration www.Totemtototem.com
SKIDEGATE INLET RETREATPANORAMIC VIEWS OVER SKIDEGATE INLET
Contact Robert 778-877-7385 | [email protected]
3105 Second Ave, Queen Charlotte
airbnb.ca | facebook.com/skidegateinlet/
· Two suites - Eagle suite and Raven suite.
· Each suite has two bedrooms, en-suite bathrooms, kitchen & living area. Can rent entire space, or each room separately.
· Featuring excellent soundproofing and nestled in a quiet hillside neighborhood located in Queen Charlotte.
· Non-smoking facility, no pets.
Modern | Private | Tranquil
TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 2322 Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/BusinessMeet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com
Hourly, daily and weekly rates // All rentals include approved helmets //
Must be at least 19 years of age and hold class 7 & above driver’s licence
HOP ON AND FEEL THE BREEZE
250-640-6474 [email protected]
176 2ND AVE
SKIDEGATE
HAIDA
OWNED &
OPERATED
NEW 2018
YAMAHA ZUMAS
SMOOTH & SAFE
L vehaidagwaii
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THE
LONG HOUSE
GIFT SHOP
The Long House Gift Shop is housed in a building fashioned after a
traditional Haida longhouse and packed with local Haida artwork,
handcrafts and Haida Gwaii clothing.
Email: [email protected]
• Local Haida carvings and artwork
• Haida Gwaii clothing
• Gifts and souvenirs
• Car rentals
250-559-8013 • 107 Front St • Skidegate
Feed Store, Vet Clinic, Boarding Kennel & Guest Houses
Contact Leslie at: 250-557-4348 - [email protected] - www.richardsonranch.ca
TLELL
GRANDPA’S GUEST HOUSE
Heritage home on the historic Richardson Ranch, overlooking the
Tlell River and tidal meadows.
RIVERVIEW GUEST HOUSE
Located on a private lot on Beitush Road, inside Naikoon Park,
close to the river and the beach.
Relax in the tranquil natural
surroundings of the Tlell River
at Riverside B &B. Within
walking distance of Tlell
amenities and local beaches.
Free wifi for all guests.
Cozy. Warm. Convenient.
528 Richardson Rd, Tlell, BC 250-557-4418
haidagwaii.net/margaret
RiversideBed & Breakfast
L vehaidagwaii
.com
JAGS
BEANSTALK
Aromatic. Fresh. Inviting.
Outstanding Aboriginal Business Award winner. Wake up to an aromatic cup
of coffee or hot-steamed espresso beverage and a fresh-baked muffin at Jags
Beanstalk.
jagsbeanstalk.com
• Daily fresh baking and made-in-house
dishes using local ingredients
• Proudly serving 49th Parallel fair-trade
coffee beans
•Warm and cozy accommodations
250-559-8826 • 100 Hwy 16 • Skidegate
WHy we LOvE hAiDa GWAii
25TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII24
SGiids Kung
Vanessa BellisLawrence Jones
Jenny NelsonPhoebe Dykstra
MASSET
I came to Haida Gwaii to find stability, I found home.
Tracy Marrs
Look around, this is the most beautiful place on earth! We are surrounded by the
ocean and fresh air! Not many people get to say that killerwhales swim in front of their house! I get to live close to my family and
see them on a daily basis!
MASSET
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
I've lived here for many years and one of the things I love
most about this place is how big of a heart the Island has.
When someone is in need, all the communities pull together and
help out.
Haida Gwaii is family, forest, the dunes, Duu Guusd and friends. It's moved into my bones.
MASSET
Because I grew up here and I love my home town. Rain or shine it is beautiful.
GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT
26 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 27
Having finished the first round of un-
packing and repacking, we set our kay-
aks on the water. Our group sets out
on a falling tide heading roughly 25
kilometres east, towards our first camp
near the mouth of Hlkinul Kaahlii Cum-
shewa Inlet.
As we paddle, we gaze over-side
through rich blankets of seaweed spot-
ting creatures below. One hundred and
fifty years ago the sea otter trade erad-
icated kuu Sea otters throughout much
of the west coast. Freed from their
primary predators, guuding.ngaay Pur-
ple urchin proliferated, consuming vast
areas of kelp beds and creating ‘urchin
barrens’ that characterize much of the
Islands’ marine ecosystems today. At
CrYsTaL ClEAR
Our kayak journey to Gwaii Haanas starts with a dusty drive along flow-er-fringed logging roads. Our ten-person crew has carefully planned our
paddle south for months, and it feels good to finally heave our gear into our cars and depart for Gaats’iiGundaay Alliford Bay. Our vehicles bob through potholes down the logging road to Gawu Kuns Moresby Camp. Gawu Kuns is a historically monumental site. Here Nang Kilslaas Hll.nga Supernatural Raven built a house for his wife Jiila Kuns. Her ten children are kuuniisii ancestors of Kuustak Haida descendants of the eagle moiety, and many Haida today are her matrilineal descendants.
the mouth of Hlkinul Kaahlii, however,
strong currents and sandy substrates
still preserve large areas of kelp forest.
Ngaal Giant kelp and hlkyama Bull kelp
persist here, covering kilometres of the
life-filled shallows.
As we look from kelp forest to the rain-
forest towering above, Haida Gwaii’s
complex geological origins grow more
apparent. Towering Carnian mountains
of volcanic rock recede to our south as
much younger eskers approach along
our northern side. Massive glaciers
formed these hills as recently as 16,000
years ago. Today they roll beneath tall
old-growth ts’uu Red cedar and kayd
Spruce rainforests.
Having politely asked for, received
permission from and paid a thank-
you to the Haida family that man-
ages the area we set up camp near
the village site. Here a number of
gyaaGalang monumental columns still
watch over the village. We spend the
remainder of the day snorkeling in the
summer day’s lagging light.
Day 1
Kayaking in Gwaii Haanas
Afternoon rain shower after a good day's paddle.
Photo: Parks Canada / Sean Lahusen
By Graham Richard/Council of the Haida Nation
28 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 29
Day 2We start day two by rounding K’ing
Gwaay Kingui Island, a storied island,
and make the seven kilometre cross-
ing south to K’uuna Llnagaay. With
pep and determination, we beat Xyuu
Southeast Wind and make it to K’uuna
in good time. Before landing, we radio
ahead to the Haida Watchmen at the
site. Watchmen have protected Haida
village sites for decades. They help
Another easy seven kilometres brings
us to our destination, tucked safely
behind Giits’aads Vertical Point. A pair
of xuuya raven and a hlGuu Great blue
heron greet our party on the sandy
beach. The wariest of the trio heaves
its body into the sky and heads north-
ward to find solitude amongst rocky
tide pools. The two xuuya linger watch-
fully on nearby hemlock branches. We
give these notorious ransackers an ex-
tra measure of vigilance as we unpack
our kayaks and hang our food in a tree.
k’aaxada dogfish leap headlong from
the surface after prey as gentler winds
retreat south.
To our west, long sandy beaches
stretch between foreboding towers of
Jurassic sediment, where white frothy
waves begin to roar. We give these
obstacles a generous berth, and luck-
ily, we beat the weather into Hlk’yah
GawGa.
We land in time to meet the Watchmen
on site, who generously show us Gwaay
Haanas Giinaa.Ga GyaaGang.ngaay
Dang Gyaaxa Gwaii Haanas Legacy
Pole before sending us off to admire
the surrounding old growth rainforest.
In 1985, Haida ended industrial logging
at Tllga Kun Gwaay.yaay. Today visitors
admire a part of that ongoing legacy;
the monumental evergreens still stand-
ing tall around Hlk'yah GawGa.
Day 4On the morning of our fourth day
strong northerly winds whip up the sea.
From the quiet shore we look through
the bay’s mouth, marked on either
side by rocky islets. The sea beyond is
awash with white-capped waves. We
couldn’t have arranged a better place
to settle in for a weather-day. As an
estuary with sandy, gravelly and rocky
features, Hlk’yah GawGa supports di-
verse marine life. Tucked behind the
protective shoulder of the bay, we are
left to spend the day swimming in the
intertidal, where k’uust’an Dungeness
crab, k’aahl kelp crab, and especially
guuding.ngaay Purple urchin thrive.
We dive below the rolling swell at the
mouth of the bay, where Juu Hlaasda
North Wind makes the entrance im-
passable.
When one is kayaking, hygiene is of
the utmost importance, and our crew
enjoys leisurely baths in sunlit pools
at Hlk’yah Gandlee Windy Bay Creek.
We take time to admire birds, marine
invertebrates, and small salmon fry,
and get up close with introduced k’aad
Sitka deer.
Day 5Well fed, well rested and well scrubbed,
we leave Hlk’yah behind early on our
fifth morning. Subsiding northern winds
and falling currents running south
quickly carry us twelve kilometres
through K’aadxwa Xyangs Gogit Pas-
sage. We wrestle driving waves with
measured excitement. Ultimately ‘loose
hips and lots of dips’ bring us safely
to Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay Hotspring
Island.
Watchmen and Haida fishing families
greet us on shore, and we exchange
stories about our travels. We bathe
lazily in hot pools, chattering while a
parade of friends, relatives and strang-
ers stops by. Of course, the wisest
of us use the hot springs to warm up
between swimming excursions in sur-
rounding cold seas. That's really the
whole idea. Throughout the day we
dip in and out of the ocean, free-div-
ing beyond the reef and through the
cove, where schools of fish shelter and
great herds of guuding.ngaay lay siege
to the last remaining outcrops of kelp
forest. Among them, rare and beautiful
sea slugs wave deadly cerata as they
scrape food from rocks or prepare to
pounce on their prey of choice.
A brief two-kilometre jaunt north
brings us to our camp in a bay on the
south side of Gaysiigas Gwaay Mur-
chison Island. We can’t escape our
friends, however, who catch up in their
skiff to bring us fresh xaaguu Pacific
halibut. Once camp is set up, previous
dinner plans are cancelled, and we en-
joy a taste of Haida Gwaii. A beautiful
k'ya.alt'agwaang Western sandpiper
joins us for dinner, and pokes delicately
at the frond-covered shoreline.
Day 6O n mo rn ing s ix we c ross
Gandaawuu.ngaay Xyangs Juan Perez
Sound west to Kingts’ii Gwaay.yaay Bis-
choff Islands where dozens of xuud Ha-
bour seals have gathered, presumably
to dive for cod among gray reefs. Xuud
flit all about our kayaks, surfacing here
and there to huff indignantly.
An arguably misguided surge of curios-
ity leads our little armada up Kingts’ii
GawGa Beresford Inlet, a narrow
branch of water stretching six kilome-
tres northward. Gentle flooding tides
slowly push us up the inlet over kelp
forests and past an islet of blossoming
Afternoon light filters through the clouds.
Photo: Parks Canada / Sean Lahusen
and welcome visitors and speak to
their deep knowledge of Haida Gwaii.
At K’uuna they graciously show us the
many gyaaGalang monumental poles
and náaGalang monumental cedar
houses that remain.
After a brief rest, we start paddling the
two kilometres east to Gwaayts’ads
Skedans Islands. Here we take a break in
the sun and swim with xuud Harbour seals
through kelp forests dotted with orange
seapens. Sandpipers and oystercatchers
chatter and scramble at the rocky point,
as if to see us off, as we paddle south into
GawGa Kwaan GawGa Laskeek Bay. The
area is an important bird habitat that has
drawn scientists from around the world.
Flocks of ts’allang.nga Marbled murrelet
and sgaaxada Pigeon guillemot accom-
pany us as we paddle. These birds often
concentrate in flocks and dive for school-
ing fish amongst other seabirds.
Having paddled 21 kilometres in a day,
we are already full of memories.
Day 3On morning three, Juu Hlaasda North
Wind overshadows the afternoon. We
rise early to attempt the 20 kilometre
crossing south to Tllga Kun Gwaay.yaay
Athlii Gwaay or Lyell Island. GawGa
Kwaan GawGa is often a dangerous
stretch of open water. Winds can rush
in to suddenly disturb calm waters.
From the bay’s centre, hanging on the
fragile edge of the weather’s whim, we
sense our insignificance engulfing us.
For now, Xyuu Southeast Wind gently
scrapes shallow, whimsical forms into
lulling swell, embossed in sharp morn-
ing light. But swell and wind grow as
we push through the last seven kilome-
tres to Hlk’yah GawGa. Unperturbed
A kun whale takes a dive.
Photo: Parks Canada / C. Houston
Xuud Harbour seals checking out the scene.
Photo: Parks Canada / Heather Ramsey
30 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 31
Sedgwick Bay. An impenetrable wall
of rainforest locks away all sight of
any route. While a few of the crew
doggedly volunteer for scouting duty,
our other group elects to float near-
by, vigilantly snacking and listening to
birds. As minutes pass we idle, unintim-
idated by the unlikely prospect of our
companions finding the portage route.
But to our dismay, we all soon find our-
selves scrambling up a steep embank-
ment, squeezing our kayaks over roots
and under branches. Over an hour later
we have successfully crossed some 150
metres of ground. Upon the arrival of
our last kayak in the mucky cove, we
celebrate with a brief hurrah before
act upheld Haida law and led to a con-
tinuing series of protections in Haida
Gwaii and the creation of the Gwaii
Haanas Haida Heritage Site, National
Park Reserve, and National Marine Con-
servation Area Reserve.
Day 7On morning seven we round the is-
land’s western side. Gal Blue mussels
grow thick, shrouding stones in dark
blue. Ferocious bright orange File dog-
winkles stand out against the carpet
of dark shells, and cling tightly to their
bivalve prey. As we approach, startled
sdllGuu River otters scramble out of
the water and up into the forest. At
mid-tide we reach Gaysiigas K’idsii Mur-
chison Narrows, where the waters teem
with shellfish and dancing seaweeds.
We spend the day derping around in
the shallows before retiring to Gandll
K’in once again. A quick paddle south
from Gaysiigas Gwaay to a campsite
on the north shore of Xiina Gwaay.yaay
Ramsay Island makes for an easy day.
Day 8On morning eight we decide to move
our camp farther south again to put us
in reach of K’iid Xyangs K’iidaay Burna-
by Narrows. We plan around the winds
and tides to cross 23 kilometres from
Xiina Gwaay.yaay to GaysiiGas K’iidsii
Burnaby Strait. We grow meditative
during the haul south, recollecting our
journey. Dozens of ancient village sites
are within view on the shores around us
and obscured beneath us on the ocean
floor. This open water once bustled
with canoe traffic, and the presence of
kuuniisii is clearly felt. The day dis-
solves into consideration of the many
hundreds of generations of people that
came before us.
We awaken from our reverie close to
Gwaay Guusdagang All Alone Stone,
where a gentle swell reveals its true
power, gulping and roaring as it smash-
es onto its cliffy sides. From there it is
another push south up the inlet, where
we camp beside a creek.
Day 9On morning nine we set out for K’iid
Xyangs K’iidaay Burnaby Narrows. Don-
ning masks and snorkels we plunge
into the cold water. All kinds of inter-
tidal life concentrate at the narrows
and strong currents sustain the many
inhabitants with a constant influx of
creatures. Among them come the top
predators of the planktonic drifts, and
we are treated to an exquisite variety
of glittering cone jellies and frilled me-
dusozoa. Along the bottom youthful
cabezon passively await whatever mor-
sels might drift past with this bounty.
Real estate here is in high demand, and
shorelines are packed with all kinds
of cnidarians and their accompanying
cast of dependents, benefactors, and
antagonists. Juvenile fish disguise
themselves in dazzling patchworks of
brightly coloured encrusting bryozoa.
Small sguskaahll Red rock crab hide
beneath wide, thick curtains of Dark
brown wrack kelp Laminaria bongardi-
ana and bright, tapering Turkish towel
Chondracanthus exasperata. Towards
the narrows northern end gyuudan
Moon snail engulf bivalve prey with
their white, fleshy feet.
These narrows, like so many areas in
Haida Gwaii, are abuzz with life. Two
village sites sit shoulder-to-shoulder
at each end of the small area. Both
flourished in the concentration of nat-
ural wealth. The narrows also provide
a visual feast: the final treat after nine
days of travelling. After another full
day, we return to camp greeting other
visitors along the way. Full of memories
and laughter, we leave the evening fire
one at a time to plunge headlong into
contented dreams.
Day 10On morning ten we pack our gear and
load a large zodiac. With the roar of
the motors we awaken from our deep
dream, suddenly returned to the bustle
of everyday life. The three-hour ride
back provides a short time to revisit the
passing landscape, filled with memories
and plans for the next adventure.
Gwaay Haanas Giinaa.Ga GyaaGang.ngaay Dang Gyaaxa Gwaii Haanas Legacy Pole.
Photo Parks Canada/C. Houston
Packed up and loaded for transport back.
Photo: Parks Canada / Leslie Leong
k’ay Crab apple trees. Thrush calls re-
sound from the inlet’s forested slopes
and we soon arrive at its northern ex-
tremity.
One of our more intrepid members
suggests portaging across a narrow
isthmus east to Kuuniisii Xaw Daw
GawGaay the northwest bay within
clouds of biting insects emerge to pun-
ish us for our audacity.
Leaving the portage behind, we pad-
dle east across Kilslaay Kaajii Sding
GawGa Sedgwick Bay. At the northern
end of this inlet Haida citizens stood
on the ‘Line at Lyell’ to put an end to
excessive logging in 1985. This historic
"FROM THE BAY’S CENTRE, HANGING ON THE FRAGILE EDGE OF THE WEATHER’S WHIM, WE SENSE OUR INSIGNIFICANCE ENGULFING US."
32 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 33
But not when it’s really blowing.
“If it’s too windy, we don’t work,” he
says, sounding not the least bit un-
happy about it. Unable to work on
windy days, Beaupré and a half-dozen
colleagues often swap their tools for
winds tend to blow from the southeast,
bringing storms. They found surf, and
some of the wildest seas he’s ever kit-
ed. What they and others won’t find
easily, unless they seek them out, is
other kiters.
“We actually want more people,” says
Julien Boisvert, speaking at home in
Masset with his partner Hilary, their
baby daughter Aubrey, and their dog,
Surfer. “Never thought I’d say that,
ever!”
Like a lot of kiters, Boisvert first set sail
on a windsurfer. “My mom, she bought
like the first windsurfer available in
the 1980s,” he said. “They were super
heavy, super huge.”
enties. While it might look otherwise
from shore, kiters don’t need a ton of
upper-body strength. The kite lines run
to a waist or seat harness that handles
most of the kite’s pull, while a control
bar is used mainly for steering.
Perhaps today’s 70-year-old kiters are
chasing what a young Benjamin Frank-
lin discovered in his not-so famous kite
experiment of the early 1700s. Floating
on his back in a pond, young Franklin
flew a regular kid’s kite high above and
found he could glide from one shore to
the other “in a most agreeable manner.”
It takes considerably more training, with
one-on-one help, for beginner kitesurf-
ers to get the feel for controlling a kite,
getting up on a board and riding down-
wind, and finally how to ride against
the wind so they can sail back to where
they started and avoid long walks on
the beach.
Even so, when Boisvert got home from
his Caribbean vacation and saw 50
For Jonathan Beaupré, summer revolves around the wind. In summer Beaupré repairs wind turbines in the Gaspésie, a peninsula in eastern Quebec that juts into the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, and bristles with wind farms. Its Mi’gmaq
name, gespeg, means “end of the lands.” Working mainly at height, whether on ropes or platforms, Beaupré fixes cracks in the turbines’ fibreglass blades.
kites and surfboards. Kitesurfing is still
a fairly new sport, and it’s a stretch
to say it’s taking off here on Haida
Gwaii. There are maybe a dozen kiters
on-islands, and visiting ones land about
as often as a Eurasian Wigeon gets
blown across the Hecate Strait. But
those who make the trip in midsummer
can find 17-hour days, endless beach,
and prevailing northwest winds that
almost always bring clear, sunny skies.
Beaupré and his girlfriend actually
made the trip last winter, when the
One advantage is that when he was
little, Boisvert and his mom could wind-
surf together, with him perched up
front. He loved it. It was only six years
ago that Boisvert got a chance to try
kitesurfing while on vacation in the Ca-
ribbean. But the wind wasn’t so great,
and he wasn’t hooked right away. Kite-
surfing has a steep learning curve.
One reason is that depending on the
wind and the size of the kite, kiters can
harness a lot of power. Racing in shal-
low canals cut in the Namibian desert,
kitesurfers have hit speeds of over 50
knots. The world record is just shy of 58
knots, or 107 km/h. By suddenly steer-
ing a kite upwards, riders can leverage
that power to jump high off the water
— the record is 28.6 metres.
Most people will never ride in such ex-
treme conditions. But some are extreme
in other ways.
A few people, mostly former windsurf-
ers, are now kiting well into their sev-
WinD CaTchErs
Opposite: Endless beach and strong winds by SGidlii Gandlee White Creek.
Below: A kiter in control of her lines.
Photo credits: Andrew Hudson
By Andrew Hudson
34 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 35
kitesurfers riding all at once on the
Ottawa River, he was in. At about the
same time, he started seeing Hilary Mc-
Namee, who quickly picked up kitesurf-
ing and excelled. Today, they can both
boost big jumps and pull off tricks like
backspins and raileys and darkslides.
“I was lucky,” McNamee said. “I had
good instructors, and I didn’t have any
bad experiences at the beginning.”
Living in the Ottawa area meant Hila-
ry and Julien often had to drive three
hours away to find strong, steady wind.
That all changed when they moved to
Masset two years ago.
Many of the best kite spots on Haida
Gwaii are near Masset along the north
shore of Graham Island, where there
are also several beach and longhouse
cabins for rent, and tenting at Hl'yaalan
Galguusd Agate Beach campground.
The mouth of SGidlii Gandlee White
Creek is among the most beginner-
friendly places to land and launch a
kite, with a wide sandy beach and few
trees or rocks around. Especially on a
falling tide, Hl’yaalang waagusd North
Beach east of the Hl'yaalan 'Llngee
Hiellen River tends to have long flats
between the waves, though depending
on the tide cycle kiters may find little
or no space to land a kite at high tide.
There are hazards too, such as the no-
go zones around the Masset and Sand-
spit Airports. Kiting in offshore winds is
also a bad idea in such a remote place,
where kiters can only rely on self-res-
cues if a line breaks or the wind dies.
You might see Alaska from your house,
but it’s still a long swim. Besides kiting
with humpbacks, seals, porpoises, ea-
gles, the Pesuta shipwreck, or the cliffs
of Taaw Tow Hill in view, visiting and
local kiters often say how friendly the
sport is here and nearly everywhere.
Josh McDonald kited in Haida Gwaii
twice last summer, but he mainly goes
in the Sgiina Gandlaay Skeena River
and other spots around his home in
Kxeen Prince Rupert, including one
where people kite to a hotspring and
back. After a friend taught him to fly
a trainer kite on shore, McDonald was
hooked — in recent years, he and over
a dozen whitewater kayakers have
largely switched to kitesurfing.
“I think the appeal is the sunshine, and
the community you can spend time
with,” McDonald said, nothing that
kayak trips are often in cold dark river
valleys.
“There’s a nice community of people I
find, who are good to give a helping
hand when they need to.”
Among the new people Julien and
Hilary are looking forward to kiting
with is their daughter Aubrey, who is
just starting to walk but has already
enjoyed several summer days with
mom and dad taking turns kiting on
Hl’yaalang waagusd.
“It hasn’t happened to us yet that we
need to leave early,” Boisvert said. “She
loves the beach, and she doesn’t mind
the wind either.”
HAiDa GWaii TRip
PlAnniNgGUiDe
Below: Winds, waves and land meet at a precarious spot.
Photo credit: Caroline Walker
All you need to Plan
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca36 37
A guusd unital eagle soars above sunset waters in Gwaii Haanas.
Photo previous page: Owen Perry
Haida Gwaii is a treasure. The wild beauty of Haida Gwaii strikes a deep impression on visitors and resi-
dents alike. Come here with curiosity and respect – you will always be welcomed back to the edge of the world.
We hope this guide will make planning your trip easy. One
way to think of Haida Gwaii, is as a village of 4,500, hardy,
unique characters who live in seven neighbourhoods spread
up and down the islands. The ocean and the forest are our
larder, the ferries our connection to the mainland, and the
ferry lineup one of our gathering points where we socialize
and politic – with coffee cup in hand.
For a trip to remember, book your accommodation, excursions
and travel well in advance. We recommend six months to a
year lead time to ensure you enjoy a smooth trip. Accommo-
dation varies from rustic "off the grid" beach cabins to modern
and natural lodges and retreats, and extraordinary camping
in old growth or on the beach. All accommodation is small
scale and intimate. Each time you book you are talking with
an owner who cares passionately about the quality of your
experience.
There are no chain stores, fast food franchises or large hotels
on the "Islands of the People". Here we live slowly, at a pace
that is rich with unique experiences. Winter is the social sea-
son, full of concerts, artisan fairs, coffee houses and events
throughout the islands. We re-connect, regroup, and plan for
high-season tourism in the summer, but love to see visitors all
year long.
WHEN YOU’VE REACHED
THE EDGE OF YOUR WORLD,
OURS BEGINS.A WEALTH OF KNOWLEDGE
Sandspit Visitor Centre is located inside the Sandspit Airport. The staff members are local res-
idents with firsthand information about local amenities plus special events, like the Moresby
Market, Loggers Sports Day and the Sandspit Wild Harvest Festival. Ask us about the world-re-
nowned Gwaii Haanas Haida Heritage Site, National Park Reserve, and Nation Marine Conserva-
tion Area The Sandspit Visitor Centre is part of the official Destination BC Visitor Services Network
and is operated by a not-for-profit community society.
SANDSPIT VISITOR CENTRE 250-637-5362 • lovehaidagwaii.com/the-sandspit-visitor-centre
The Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre is located in heart of Daajing Giids and is part of the official
Destination BC Visitor Services Network. They are open all year long, including seven days a
week throughout the summer. The Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre and its services are an integral
part of the islands tourism community of Haida Gwaii. The staff are here to help. Head outside to
the interpretive garden and picnic area to relax and take in the fresh air.
QUEEN CHARLOTTE VISITOR CENTRE250-559-8316 • queencharlottevisitorcentre.com
Visitors to Haida Gwaii must add a stop at the Port Clements Museum to their travel itinerary.
The museum is run by the Port Clements Historical Society, made up entirely of local volunteers
who have a passion for preserving and sharing Gamadiis’ unique history. Guests are invited to take
an interpretive tour or browse the displays on their own. The Port Clements Museum is open daily
June to September from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. During the rest of the year it is open Saturdays
and Sundays, 2:00 - 4:00 p.m.
PORT CLEMENTS MUSEUM & INFORMATION CENTRE250-557-4576 • lovehaidagwaii.com/port-clements-museum
Photo
: Ow
en Pe
rry
The village of Masset operates the Northern Haida Gwaii Visitor Information Centre which
is located at Mile 0 of the Yellowhead Highway at the entrance to town. The Masset Visitor
Information Centre is open daily from 9a.m to 5 p.m., from mid-June through mid-September.
Stop in to shop local art and merchandise, and enjoy free Wi-Fi access,
public washroom, and a telephone for anyone who needs to make a call.
NORTHERN HAIDA GWAII VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE250-626-3982 • massetbc.com
For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca38 39
haida gwaii Trip Planner
Whether you’re planning travel to Haida Gwaii from T'agaa Vancouver, Toronto, Seattle, Beijing, London or your own special
corner of the world, this information will help prepare for your journey to Haida Gwaii.
GETTING HERE & GETTING AROUND
ARRIVING BY AIRAir service is available daily from Vancouver and Prince Rupert. For schedules and fares please check with the following carriers.
• AIR CANADA has regularly scheduled 2.5-hour flights from Vancouver International Airport (YVR) to Sandspit International Airport (YZP).
• PACIFIC COASTAL AIRLINES has regularly scheduled 2.5-hour flights between Vancouver's South Terminal (YVR) and the Masset Municipal Airport (ZMT).
• INLAND AIR has scheduled flights between Prince Rupert and the Village of Masset.
ARRIVING BY WATERBC FERRIES provides regular scheduled sailings to the Islands from Prince Rupert, year-
round. Connector service is available in Prince Rupert for the Inside Passage route to or
from Port Hardy on Vancouver Island, or north with Alaska's marine ferry system. Arrive at
terminals two hours in advance. Check for current conditions and changes in schedule at
bcferries.com.
Many of the communities have marinas, boat ramps and services catering to recreational boat-
ers. For small craft harbour information in K'il Llnagaay Sandspit call 250-637-5700, Daajing
Giids Queen Charlotte call 250-559-4650, for Gamadiis Port Clements call 250-557-4295 and
for Masset call 250-626-3995.
K’il Llnagaay Sandspit: call Budget Car Rentals at 250-637-5688
Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte: call Budget Car & Truck Rentals at 250-559-4641 or
Island Auto Rentals at 250-559-4118 or Haida Gwaii Vehicle & RV Rentals at 250-637-1202
HlGaagilda Skidegate: call The Long House Gift Shop (National Car Rentals) at 250-626-
3833, Haida Gwaii Scooter Rentals 250.640.6474
Masset: call National Car Rentals at 250-626-3833, or Rustic Car Rentals at 250-626-3756
TAXISHlGaagilda Skidegate: call Gwaii Taxi & Tours at 250-559-2380 or on cell 250-637-1162 for
service in the Daajing Giids and HlGaagilda areas.
Masset: call Mile Zero Taxi service 250-626-7971 for service throughout northern Haida Gwaii.
BIKE RENTALS
Masset: call Masset Bikes 250-626-8939
or North Beach Surf Shop 250-626-7873 or
email Bike RePsych at [email protected]
K’il Llnagaay Sandspit: call the Sandspit Visitor Centre at 250-637-5362
Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte -
call Echo Bay Lodge at 250-637-1758 or call
Green Coast Kayaking at 250-637-1093 or
email Bike RePsych at [email protected]
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Should I get travel insurance?
Travel insurance and/or trip cancellation insurance is highly recommended. Frequently, many
transportation routes (plane and ferry), as well as tours on Haida Gwaii are postponed or
cancelled due to weather or sea conditions. This applies year-round.
Are there public transit buses on island?
Unfortunately, there is no public transportation on island. Most communities have a taxi ser-
vice. There are several companies on island that will provide taxi services and tours.
Are all roads on Haida Gwaii passable for a camper? A small vehicle? Are there unpaved roads?
There are only about 140km of paved highways on the islands and many areas to camp in
between the communities along the main highway. There is an extensive network of unpaved
roads too, some suitable for a camper van on short distances, and some not advisable. You
will want to enquire locally for information on the state of the roads and logging activity.
How safe is it to bike around the islands?
Cycling is a great way to experience a destination, as it slows you down, keeps you active,
gets you places you may not get to by conventional motor vehicle, and puts you in direct
contact with the elements and with people. Haida Gwaii has a very limited network of paved
roads, which means that if you choose to stick to the pavement, you won’t necessarily be
cycling all that much, and you also will have a hard time getting lost. There is a much more
extensive network of unpaved roads, logging roads, back roads etc., that can take you much
farther into the wilderness, though it is not for everybody.
Is it necessary to book tours in advance or is it easy to book them when we arrive (e.g. excursions to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, Haida Heritage Site, Naikoon Provincial Park, etc)?
All tours, especially to Gwaii Haanas, should definitely be booked in advance. The Haida Heri-
tage Centre and Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum do not take bookings and have regular
hours of operation. Naikoon Provincial Park does not take bookings either (campgrounds are
on first-come, first-served basis). You can hike in Naikoon Provincial Park and other areas at
your leisure with no reservations required. See page 78 for more information.
I would like to go to Gwaii Haanas, how can one get there?
There is no road access to Gwaii Haanas. It is only accessible by float plane or boat.
See page 78 for more information. For a list of licensed tour oper-
ators, including float plane service, visit the Gwaii Haanas website at
pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/gwaiihaanas/visit
Photo
: Monica Ph
ung
AUTO RENTALS
For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca40 41
• Bike and kayak rentals, maps available at Sandspit Visitor Centre
• Bird-watching at the "spit"
• Choice of restaurants and shops to explore
• Shoreline walk along K’il KaaGan Shingle Bay
• Picnic at the whale-watching gazebo at Kun Gwaay Onward Point
• Spend the day at Diinal GawGa Gray Bay
• Hike the Dover Creek Trail
• Maps available at Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre
• Bike and Kayak rentals available
• A waterfront stroll on the sea walk and docks
• Guided or self-guided kayak tour of Daajing Giids GawGa Bearskin Bay or Tllgaduu
GawGa Kagan Bay
• Explore Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte and Tllgaduu GawGa Kagan Bay
• Guided sightseeing or fishing charter to Duu Guusd the West Coast of Haida Gwaii
• Guided single day boat tour exploring Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay Skidegate Inlet
• Hike Kuu Jad TlldaGaw Sleeping Beauty Mountain
• Enjoy a variety of shops downtown
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA• Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay and Saahlinda Naay the
Haida Gwaii Museum
• Choice of grocery store, restaurants and food trucks for lunch and dinner
• Check your fuel at Taaw Naay Gas station
• Walk the beach along HlGaagilda K’iiwaay Front Street and look for whales and seals
• Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum and Xaayda ‘Waadxanaay Longhouse Gift Shop
• Visit Haida artists at their studios (call before to confirm times and availability)
• Walk the GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu Spirit Lake Trail
THINGS TO DO ON-ISLAND
Choose one or more idea from each block and build your own itinerary, one day at a time! See gohaidagwaii.ca for more
details and contact information.
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
Photo
: Jags B
row
n
TLL.AAL TLELL AREA
• Check out the artisan shops along Richardson and Beitush Roads
• Visit local farms to see what’s growing
• Have a coffee and walk the never-ending Tlldas East Beach
• Stop at the Misty Meadows Campground for beach access
• Walk on the Anvil Trail and explore the upper reaches of the Tll.aal Gandlaay Tlell River
• Hike to the Pesuta shipwreck
• Explore Nee Kun area Naikoon Park
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS AREA
• Take a guided kayak tour of Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet, Juus Kaahlii Juskatla Inlet and river
tours
• Join a guided land tour and explore logging roads to get to the Yaagun Gandlaay Yakoun
River or Chaahluu Kaahlii Rennell Sound
• Explore the new walking paths throughout Gamadiis Port Clements
• Check out the pioneer artifacts and get up to date information at the Port Clements Museum
• Walk along the great Sunset Park Trail and go up to the bird-viewing tower at Yaagun
Kaahlii Stl’ang Yakoun Estuary
MASSET
• Grab a bike or a water-sport rental to get around
• Explore local history at the Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum
• Walk along to bird-view platforms at the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary
• Choice of grocery store, restaurants and cafes to grab lunch or dinner
• Hire a fishing charter for a world-class fishing experience
• Walk the endless beaches and enjoy a Pacific sunset
GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT
• Walk or drive through Gaw Tlagee and see gyaa'aang monumental poles
• Take a guided cultural tour on land or on the water
• Enjoy a meal at local cafes and restaurants
• Check out local shops and artist carving sheds (call in advance before visiting)
TAAW K’YUU TOW HILL ROAD AREA
• Visit a gallery for artwork and more by local artists
• Hike up to the viewing platforms on Taaw Tow Hill
• Check out the impressive spray at Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole at high tide
• Walk the 17km (one-way) beach to Nee Kun Rose Spit
• Hike the SGidlii Gandlee K’yuuwee White Creek Trail
• Search for agates on Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach
• Hike out to Tlldas East Beach via the Cape Fife Trail
• Explore the bogs and landscape of Nee Kun area Naikoon Park
K’IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT AREA
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE AREA
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca42 43
• Hike the GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu Spirit Lake Trail in
HlGaagilda Skidegate
• Visit the Tll.aal Tlell artisan shops and stop at Misty
Meadows Campground
• Walk along the magnificent old-growth trees along the
Golden Spruce Trail outside of Gamadiis Port Clements
• Take a tour of the Gaw Tlagee Old Massett gyaa'aang
monumental poles
• Go to Hl’yaalang waagusd North Beach! Walk the
accessible Kwahtsiisda the blow hole and climb to the
Tow Hill lookout platforms
• Stroll along the Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte sea walk
• Bird watching at the "spit" in K’il Llnagaay Sandspit and in
the Delkatla Nature Sanctuary in Masset
• Visit Diinal GawGa Gray Bay, south of K’il Llnagaay
Sandspit. Please see the advice for driving on active
logging roads on page 44.
DO IT YOURSELF, BY SEASON
SPRING & SUMMER• Beachcombing for glass fishing floats and agates
• Visit the Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Centre
• Roadside whale-watching (April-May are good
whale-watching months)
• Stand-up paddle board in Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet
• Hiking: the Anvil Trail in Tll.aal Tlell or climb Kuu Jad
TlldaGaaw K’yuu Sleeping Beauty Mountain Trail just west
of Daajing Giids
• Look into Zodiac or sea plane tours of Gwaii Haanas
• Drive to Chaahluu Kaahli Rennell Sound to experience the
west-coast waves. Please see the advice for driving on
active logging roads on page 44.
CULTURAL EXPERIENCES• Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Centre at Kay
Llnagaay and Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum
• Gwaii Haanas tours with Haida-owned and operated tour
guides
• Tour out to Ts'aa.ahl Llnagaay, one of many village sites
along Daawuuxusda the west coast of Haida Gwaii
• Land tours with Haida-owned and operated tour guides
• Visit the Haida canoe at Gamadiis Port Clements
• Gaw Tlagee Old Massett gyaa'aang monumental poles
tour
• Haida artist's studio visit, self-guided tour — please
contact the artists in advance
MUST SEE AND DO, ANYTIME OF YEAR
FALL & WINTER• Surfing and kiting: check out Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate
Beach and Hl'yaalan Gandlee Hiellen River for good breaks
• Storm watching: listen to the pounding waves in an off-
the-grid ocean-side cabin along Taaw K’yuu Tow Hill Road
or watch the surf at Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole trail end
• Beachcombing: look for wash-up after the winter storms
(be sure to be safe around those waves)
• Go along the Pesuta shipwreck hike
• Holiday craft fairs in all communities
• Winter concerts: check the Haida Gwaii Arts Council and
the Queen Charlotte Visitor Centre for dates and times
Photo
: Jags B
row
n SAMPLE ISLAND ITINERARY
DAY 1Welcome to Masset. Pick up a rental car and groceries in
town. Check in for a couple of nights at a cozy place in town
or a B&B situated along Hl’yaalang waagusd North Beach.
Head out to Taaw Tow Hill (30-minute drive). Spend the after-
noon acclimatizing to a slower pace – sink your feet into the
sand and consider your next few days.
DAY 2Explore the Taaw Tow Hill area and Hl’yaalang waagusd North
Beach. In the morning, climb Taaw and enjoy unparalleled
views of Siigee Dixon Entrance. Have a picnic lunch and then
head back to Masset; grab a coffee and spend the afternoon
exploring local galleries and shops. Tour Gaw Tlagee Old Mas-
sett and watch for the gyaa'aang monumental poles situated
throughout the village, stop by the Haida art and gift shops.
Take dinner at one of the local options and then back out to
the beach to enjoy a lingering sunset. Spend a night two at a
B&B, walk out onto the beach and look at the stars or enjoy
the rain on the roof.
DAY 3 Drive to Gamadiis Port Clements (1/2 hour). Pick up some
groceries and spend the night in the village. Explore the Port
Clements Museum and walk on the Rainbow Wharf for incred-
ible views of the inlet and west coast mountains. Drive out to
the Golden Spruce Trail (four kilometres from town, on a grav-
el road). The trail is just 20-minutes long and features large
monumental red cedar and Sitka spruce. It is a really lovely
walk along the Yaaguun Gandlee Yakoun River. Head to Tll.
aal for dinner and a walk along the Tll.aal Gandlee Tlell River.
DAY 4 On the road to the south end to explore Tll.aal Tlell and the
artisan shops and galleries on Wiggins Road; hike out to the
Pesuta shipwreckor take the Anvil Trail loop. Stop for lunch
and then head down to HlGaagilda Skidegate. Watch for
Photo
: Gre
gory G
ould
kun Grey whales along KandaliiGwii Hecate Strait. Check out
HlGaa K'aayhllna Balance Rock and the artisan galleries of
HlGaagilda. Spend a night in the village or check out the great
options in Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte.
DAY 5 Gwaii Haanas exploration day! Take a Zodiac day tour. Soak
in the re-opened hotsprings, meet the Haida Watchmen and
learn about the poles at K’uuna Llnagaay. If you’re lucky you’ll
see a variety of whales and of course many different types of
sea and songbirds.
DAY 6 Explore HlGaagilda Skidegate and Daajing Giids Queen Char-
lotte. Visit the beautiful Saahlinda Naay Haida Heritage Mu-
seum. Browse the shops of Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte
and meet with locals at one of the cafés, or for a change of
pace, hike up Kuu Jad TlldaGaaw k'yuu Sleeping Beauty trail
and take in the 360 degree view from the top. Given the new
ferry schedule you can even take off for an afternoon in K'il
Llnagaay Sandspit — walk the Dover Trail, check out the new
mural art at SuperValu and consider spending the night at a
B&B.
DAY 7 Prepare for your departure. Think about all the places that
you weren’t able to get to and make plans to return to Haida
Gwaii. Our winter season here is a whole other experience –
try storm watching and winter surfing or enjoy a day in front
of a wood stove by the window, with a good book while an
impressive storm blows away outside.
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca44 45
• Emergency food and water
• Navigational/communication aids (maps,
compass, charts, and fully charged GPS,
cellular or satellite phone, VHS or hand-
held radio, battery chargers)
• Extra fuel/fire extinguisher/axe
• First aid kit/warm clothing/sleeping bags
• A tool kit/shovel/tire emergency repair
kit
A WORD ABOUT MOBILE DEVICE ACCESS ON HAIDA GWAII
Mobile device coverage on Haida Gwaii is good in some locations and “iffy” in others. You can pick up a reliable signal in the area around Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay Skide-
gate Inlet – Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte, HlGaagilda Skidegate, K’il Llnagaay Sandspit – and up coast to about Gandll SkahlGaal St. Mary’s Spring. After that your bars drop rapidly. Further north there are a couple of spots where texts can be picked up but the next most reliable spot is at the end of Wiggins Road in Tll.aal Tlell. Going north, your phone will chirp again at Gamadiis Port Clements and then just south of Masset. Service in the area around the entrance of Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet is reliable, but as you head out to Hl’yaalang waagusd North Beach, service thins out. Check out the centerfold map for locations, and remember, the back-country is a “signal-free” area – enjoy!
EMERGENCY SERVICESGaw Tlagee
Masset/North End
250-626-5511 Fire
250-626-3991 RCMP
Gamadiis/Tll.aalPort Clements/Tlell
250-557-4355 Fire
205-626-3991 RCMP
HlGaagilda/Daajing GiidsSkidegate/Queen Charlotte
250-559-8300 Fire
250-559-4421 RCMP
K'il LlnagaaySandspit
250-637-2222 Fire
250-559-4421 RCMP
800-461-9911 Ambulance
THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLEDTRAVELLING ON LOGGING ROADS
Turn your lights on! Day or night, the more visible you are, the better your chances of avoiding trouble. Use your lights at all times. Forest roads are not built to the same
standards as public highways. For example, they often have sharp, blind corners and narrow sections. All drivers must be prepared to react to unexpected conditions and to be able to stop safely. For your own sake, stay alert and always be ready to take evasive action. Remember, dust means traffic.
Logging trucks use all or most of the road width because of their size. Please give logging
trucks and other industrial traffic the right-of-way. Due to their size, they just can’t manoeuvre
the way personal vehicles can.
Loaded logging trucks definitely have the “right-of-weight”! When you see a logging truck or
any other heavy equipment coming, get to a turnout and let the oncoming vehicle pass by.
You may find turnouts on either side of the road — whichever side it’s on, get to it and wait
until it is safe to proceed.
Before you go, let someone know where you’re heading and when you expect to return. If you
do get lost or stranded, stay with your vehicle. It will provide shelter until help arrives, and
generally, rescuers can find it more quickly than they can an individual in the woods. Forest
road users must be prepared for emergencies; there are no hospitals, restaurants, telephone
booths or gas stations. Be sure to take the following:
UNDERSTANDING TIDES
Photo
: Guy K
imola
Tidal currents occur in conjunction with the rise and fall of the tide. The vertical motion of the tides near the
shore causes the water to move horizontally, creating cur-rents. When a tidal current moves toward the land and away from the sea, it “floods.” When it moves toward the sea away from the land, it “ebbs.”
Tide tables are essential for exploring the beaches of Haida
Gwaii. We have extreme tides here, up to 7.3 metre (24 foot)
tidal variation. Booklets are published annually by the Cana-
dian Hydrographic Service and they provide instructions on
the use of tables to determine daily tides (time and height)
for specific locations.
For Haida Gwaii you should have:
• Canadian Tide & Current Tables Volume 7: “Queen Charlotte Sound to Dixon Entrance” or go to waterlevels.gc.ca or tides.gc.ca
Tide tables provide information on the time and height of the
tide. It’s important to remember there are factors that can
increase the effects of the tides, such as your location and
storms.
Learn to read tide tables before traveling along the beach. A
famous Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku, helped popularize the
motto, “Never turn your back on the ocean.” His reasons were
twofold: he wanted people to watch out for the physical dan-
gers of being hit by a wave, and he wanted mankind to show
respect for the ocean. Rogue or sneaker waves can appear at
any time and on any beach.
Rip tides can form on any beach with surf. They are often
found near jetties or between sand bars. If you are caught in
a current that pulls you quickly from shore, swim parallel to
the beach to break out of it.
K’IIS GWAAYLangara Point10 min early
HL'YAALANG WAAGUSD
North Beach5 min early
GAW KAAHLIIMasset Inlet
Flood starts 2:50 after lowEbb starts 2:30 after high
GAMADIIS Port ClementsLow 3:05 laterHigh 2:50 later
JUUS KAAHLII Juskatla
Low 5:15 laterHigh 4:45 later
DAAJING GIIDS Queen CharlotteLow 20 min laterHigh same as Prince Rupert
DAA.ULGAAYSkidegate Narrows(Floods west)West BeaconFlood starts 3:20-3:50 after lowEbb starts 3:00-3:30 after highEast BeaconFlood starts 1:50-2:50 after lowEbb starts 1:30-2:30 after high
MASSET20 min late
KUUGAHLMcCoy CoveLow 15 min laterHigh 5 min later
K’YAL GAWGAPacofiLow 10 min laterHigh same as Prince Rupert
GWAAY K’AASEast Copper IslandSame as Prince Rupert
TIDES IN HAIDA GWAIICompared to predictions for Prince Rupert
TAA SUUHunger Harbour
20 min early
SK’IILUU KAAHLII
Nesto Inlet10 min early
SKAATS’INSIIDawson Harbour
15 min early
KAY TAY DAANAAY Cape St. JamesLow 10 min earlyHigh 5 min early
GAWÉE SDAAAlexandra Narrows
Flood starts 0:15 after lowEbb starts 0:10 after hight
Estimated using predictions from the Canadian Hydrographic Ser-vice. Estimates are unofficial and may vary significantly from reality. Use with caution.
From Haida Fisheries Program /Crawford Ecological Consulting
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca46 47
A tsunami is a natural hazard consisting of a series of long, surge-like waves generated when a large volume
of ocean water is rapidly displaced. Most tsunamis are caused by major subduction earthquakes, where there is significant displacement of the ocean floor. Tsunami waves contain considerable energy; they can travel rapidly further inland compared to ordinary coastal waves. A tsunami may not look like a wave at all, but will have very strong currents under its surface.
Tsunami are a challenging hazard to respond to. The arrival
time of the wave generated far out at sea can be predicted
fairly accurately, however, the intensity of the wave when it
reaches shore is more difficult to predict, particularly in real
time during an event.
While a distant tsunami will likely allow time for an official
tsunami warning to be given, a local tsunami can reach the
shoreline in minutes and may NOT allow for an official warning
to take place.
EVACUATION NOTIFICATIONS
If you are near the coast and feel a major earthquake making it
difficult to stand, you must “Drop, Cover, and Hold On" and then
evacuate to higher ground immediately with your 72hr emergen-
cy kit. High ground is considered anything over 10metres above
the high-water mark. If you are unfamiliar with the area, ask your
accommodation provider about evacuation spots and muster
points. In late 2018, BC Hydro poles were painted with blue ar-
rows to indicate the path to evacuation areas.
If a tsunami threat (or any other emergency such as flooding
or wildfires) is identified, authorities will notify the public via
Environment Canada EC Alert, VHF 16, broadcast media, and
direct to all LTE cell phones through AlertReady — the BC
Emergency Alerting System — in the impacted area. The Haida
Gwaii Emergency Management system will also send alerts via
SMS, phone, email to those that have registered with the ePACT
service epactnetwork.com/en/signup/
haidagwaiialerts.
When disaster hits, there won’t be time to buy emergency sup-
plies. Ensure you have emergency kits for your home, workplace
and vehicle. They should all contain food, water and supplies for
a minimum of 72 hours. A week or longer is better. Information
on building these kits can be found here at emergencygov.bc.ca/
PreparedBC. Do not return to low-lying areas to gather your be-
longings. People should wait until they get notification that the
tsunami warning has been lifted or as instructed by emergency
officials before returning to low-lying areas.
TSUNAMI SIRENS
Tsunami sirens are located in the communities of Daajing Giids
Queen Charlotte, HlGaagilda Skidegate, Masset and Gaw
Tlagee Old Massett. The warnings sound like an air-raid siren.
Every Tuesday at 7pm, the Village of Masset tests their
emergency sirens; the fire department call-out warning is first,
and the tsunami warning siren is second. The Village of Queen
Charlotte and HlGaagilda test their sirens every third Thursday
in October on “Shake Out BC” day. Please see shakeoutbc.ca
for more information on this province-wide earthquake drill day.
TSUNAMIS & EVACUATIONS
Photo
: Jen B
ailey
• If you feel a prolonged earthquake large enough to make standing difficult
• Tsunami Siren
• Continuous vehicle horns or police/fire sirens
• AlertReady: all LTE cell phones, radio, TV
• EC Alert
• ePACT call out: SMS, phone, email (only if registered at epactnetwork.com/en/signup/haidagwaiialerts)
• VHF 16
• If you feel an earthquake you can check the Pacific Tsunami Notification Centre website for real-time warnings: ptwc.weather.gov
ON HAIDA GWAII, EMERGENCY NOTIFICATION CAN BE:
• Hl’yaalang waagusd North Beach area offers easy access
to the beach with parking immediately beside the beach.
The beach might prove challenging as the ground is often
soft depending on wind and tides. The area has many plac-
es to sit and enjoy the surf in close proximity to a parked
vehicle. At the Hiellen campground:
• Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole at Hl’yaalang waagusd North
Beach area and a tour of the monumental poles in Gaw
Tlagee Old Massett is an enjoyable and easily navigable
north-island tour. The monumental poles in Gaw Tlagee
can be viewed from the roadside and the Kwahtsiisda is
a 20-minute walk (each way) via a wheelchair-accessible
boardwalk from a parking lot. At the trailhead:
• The Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary and Nature Centre are
also wheelchair-accessible to some degree. The centre and
bird-watching tower next to it are easily accessible via the
walk and drive along Cemetery Road.
• An easy pathway runs along the waterfront at Sunset
Park in Gamadiis Port Clements. The trail along the estu-
ary was designed to be wheelchair accessible but it can
be challenging at times if the chair tires are narrow. The
two kilometre path leads to a bird-watching tower that is
wheelchair accessible up to the first level.
• Gamadiis Port Clements has also improved the Golden
Spruce Trail to make it wheelchair-accessible. The trail
takes about 20 minutes to walk each way. This is an inspir-
ing old-growth rainforest trail. At the trailhead:
• Installed in spring of 2019, a new beach-access mobili-
ty mat is now installed on the beach at Misty Meadows
Campground in Tll.aal Tlell. This mat is designed to float
above the sand and give a firm surface to move a wheel-
chair along.
• The ocean-side drive from Tll.aal Tlell to Daajing Giids
Queen Charlotte features gorgeous views of the open
ocean from the roadside. At Halibut Bight rest stop:
• Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Centre and
Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum at Kay Llnagaay were
designed to be wheelchair-accessible. Although the inside
of the centre is accessible, the outside area where the
monumental pole tours are conducted has proven difficult
to some due to the gravel covering. Tours at the Centre
include the monumental pole, Gyaa K’id Naay carving
house, Haida canoe and weaving tours.
• The Queen Charlotte sea walk is located in central
Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte. It provides a stunning
view of Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay Skidegate Inlet and
Queen Charlotte Harbour at the Visitor Centre, the Queen
Charlotte Community Centre, and at the VIRL Queen
Charlotte branch libary:
ACCESSIBLE ATTRACTIONS
Haida Gwaii cannot yet be designated as wheelchair-friendly, but communities are working toward that goal. There are a number of attractions and activities that are accessible to people with limited mobility.
Photo
: Guy K
imola
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca48 49
MARCHDAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
HAIDA GWAII FILM FESTIVAL, held in March at Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte - The Haida Gwaii Film Festival, founded in 2009, brings Canadian and international films to Haida Gwaii.
KAY LLNAGAAY
ALL ISLANDS ART SHOW held in March at Saahlinda Naay the Haida Gwaii Museum. The All Islands Art Show is an annual event held to showcase the artists of Haida Gwaii working in a variety of media. A Youth All Islands Art Show is also held on a bi-annual basis.
APRILSENIORS’ WINTER GAMES held in April, an all-islands event, the Winter Games is a popular event for all islanders (50+) and is orga-nized each year by one of the communities.
MAY GAWU KUNS SIIWAAY MOSQUITO LAKE
TROUT DERBY held in May on Moresby Island. This fun family event at Gawu Kuns Siiwaay Mosquito Lake is hosted on the Sunday of the long weekend by the Sandspit Rod and Gun Club. This is a popular weekend of camping and fishing for all ages. Contact Jim Henry for more information at 250-637-2212.
MASSET
HARBOUR DAY held during the May long weekend in Masset. A fun day with that starts off with a parade, a set of games, sports, BBQs, fish bakes, pancake breakfasts, and even morning bird/muffin walk. See massetbc.com for more information.
JUNEGAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT
ABORIGINAL DAY CELEBRATION held in Gaw Tlagee Old Mas-sett - annually on June 21. Come celebrate the unique heritage,
diverse culture and outstanding achievements of the Haida Nation.
CALENDAR OF HAIDA GWAII EVENTS CALENDAR OF HAIDA GWAII EVENTSAUGUST
TLL.AAL TLELL
TLELL FALL FAIR held on Sunday, August 4th in Tll.aal Tlell - the Sunday of the long weekend. Earliest fall fair in B.C.! The original Fair started in 1912 in the Lawnhill area of Haida Gwaii. The current format of the Tlell Fall Fair was established in 1982 By the Graham Islands East Coast Farmers Institute. For event details call Linda Louis at 250-559-8975.
THE EDGE OF THE WORLD MUSIC FESTIVAL August 9, 10, 11 in Tll.aal Tlell - Since 1975, the EOTW music festival is an annual event that happens the second weekend in August. The venue is one of the largest in Haida Gwaii, and has attracted musicians and tourists because of it's uniqueness, hospitality, location, and up-close and personal feel. See edgefestival.ca for more information.
MASSET
HLGA HLK’AATS IIHLANGA AGATE MAN TRIATHLON held August 17 at Gantl’ Gadaas Pure Lake and Masset. The race consists of a 500m swim in Gantl’ Gadaas, a 20km bike ride to the Masset Fire Hall, and a 6km run around Dal Kaahlii the Delkatla Sanctuary. Participants are welcome to register alone or in teams. To register see hgrec.com or e-mail [email protected].
KAY LLNAGAAY
HAIDA HERITAGE CENTER CELEBRATION traditionally held on the 3rd weekend in August at Kay Llnagaay. This celebration is for the award-winning cultural centre, and it begins with a clan parade followed by a day of traditional Haida celebrations. See haidaheritagecentre.com for more information.
K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
MORESBY EXPLORERS PIG ROAST held on the last Saturday in August at K’il Llnagaay Sandspit. The Moresby Explorers crew welcomes everybody for an end-of-season party, pig roast and potluck-style dinner with live bands. For more information, see moresbyexplorers.com.
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
HOSPITAL DAY held in Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte every third Saturday in June (in 2019 that's June 22). Hospital Day has been an annual tradition on the islands since 1908, when islanders came to-gether to raise funds to build the first hospital. To this day, Hospital Day continues to provide monies for purchasing healthcare equipment for various healthcare programs all over the Islands, as well as bursaries for medical education.
JULYGAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
CANADA DAY EVENTS on the nearest July 1 weekend in Gama-diis Port Clements. Mud bog, fishing derby and more. The day be-gins with a pancake breakfast followed by a parade that leads the crowds to the community park to participate in go-kart races, games and more. The highlight of the celebration is the mud bog with par-ticipants from every community on Haida Gwaii.
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE
SKIDEGATE DAYS in July at HlGaagilda Skidegate with canoe rac-es, salmon BBQ and more. The Skidegate Days celebrations kicks off with a pancake breakfast at the "small hall" in HlGaagilda. The multi-day event includes a slo-pitch tournament, Haida canoe races, games, and a salmon barbecue dinner.
KAY LLNAGAAY
TOTEM TO TOTEM MARATHON held on July 20th at Kay Ll-nagaay. The marathon runs along gorgeous shoreline from the Haida Heritage Centre to St. Mary’s Spring. This marathon is a designated qualifier race for the Boston Marathon. See totemtototem.com for more information.
K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
LOGGERS SPORTS DAY held Saturday, July 27th at K’il Llnagaay Sandspit. Loggers Sports Day has been a tradition in Sandspit for over 50 years. The day begins with a parade, followed by competi-tions in axe throwing, sawing, setting chokers, burling and a greased pole climb.
SEPTEMBERK'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
SANDSPIT WILD HARVEST FESTIVAL held on September 6 and 7 in K’il Llnagaay Sandspit. This event includes speakers, wild mushroom identification lessons, food processing workshops, ecol-ogy tours and more! See sandspitwildharves.wixsite.com or email [email protected]
HAIDA GWAII MUSEUM GALA held in the fall at Kay Llnagaay. Collectors come to bid in an art auction featuring pieces from is-lands artists. See haidagwaiimuseum.ca for more information.
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBERK'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
COHO SALMON DERBY held in late September/October, K’il Ll-nagaay Sandspit and K’aasda GawGa Copper Bay. The annual Coho Derby hosted by the Sandspit Rod and Gun Club. Contact Jim Henry for more information at 250.637.2212.
NOVEMBERHL’YAALANG WAAGUSD NORTH BEACH
EXPRESSION SESSIONS held in November at Hl’yaalang waagusd North beach to coincide with the November full moon. Each year North Beach Surf Shop organizes a weekend of surfing at Hl’yaalang waagusd North Beach and Masset. The weekend features a fun evening of Open Mic, Art and Craft show, Adopt-a-Grom session, and the Tow Hillbilly classic surf session. See northbeachsurfshop.com for more information.
Photo
: Guy K
imola
The Gwaii Trust Society owns and manages a multi-million-dollar perpetual fund for the benefit of all the people of Haida Gwaii. The fund generates investment income and the Society distributes part of that income every year through a variety of grant programs, including those that support arts, culture and community events.For more information, visit gwaiitrust.com.
This page is sponsored by
For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca For more information see gohaidagwaii.ca 51
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
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51
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
5352 For more information: gohaidagwaii.caFor more information: gohaidagwaii.ca
In recent history Gaw Tlagee the land around Masset inlet was a busy
metropolitan trading centre, crowd-ed with canoe traffic. A rich natural ecosystem supported 11 Haida vil-lage sites found in and around Gaw Tlagee. Today the modern village of Gaw Tlagee sprawls across three of these, including Gad Gaywáas at its north end, Ts’ágwaals towards its cen-tre, and K’áayang towards its south.
Haida master carvers continue to fill
Gaw Tlagee’s skies with gyaa'ang monu-
mental columns, as they have since the
arrival of kaaydaay trees up to 14,500
years ago. Please show respect to
these living community members. Visi-
tors also will find the village filled with
woven, painted, carved, engraved, and
hammered masterpieces. A stop at a
gift shop will provide a glimpse into the
diverse mediums Haida have mastered.
After exploring, hungry visitors can find
meals at the gas bar & grill. You might
be fortunate to arrive in time for one
of many ceremonies open to visitors,
where you could join the community for
dinner. A boat launch is available should
you prefer to catch your own meal. You
will find a gas station in town on Guud
k'yuuwaas Eagle Avenue.
Just uptown you will find the rel-atively young community of Mas-
set, which traces its name to a similar origin as Old Massett. Registered in 1907, Masset's roots lie primarily in fishing, logging and the military. The Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum will open a window into Masset's maritime roots. All kinds of vessels arrive and depart from Masset Harbour, including local fishing charters.
GAW KAAHLII Massett Inlet
NORTHWEST DR TRUMPETER DR
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HARRISON AVE
HODGES AVE
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Tahayghan Elementary
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To TAAWTow Hill
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Masset Airport
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Wilson St
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Charles St
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YELLOWHEAD
16
Sanctuary Walking Path Pe
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Northern Haida Gwaii Hospital & Health Centre
MASSET
Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum
Masset VIC
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GUUD K’YUUWAAS EAGLE AVE
Hlkyaan k’ust’aan K’yuuwaas
52
You will find a visitor centre, hardware,
electronics, groceries, adventure-gear,
marine sports equipment, credit union,
gas station, repair-shop, restaurants,
hotels, library, post office, coffee shop
and B&B’s. Masset Airport is a quick
five-minute drive north.
Right behind Masset is Dal Kaahlii
Delkatla Bird Sanctuary. You can
encircle its leisurely 5.6-kilometre trail
and roadway in about 45 minutes.
Depending on the season and the day,
you may be in for some incredible bird
watching. Dal Kaahlii offers you the
chance to see some rarer species and
perhaps even catch some once-in-a-
lifetime phenomena.
Photo
: Guy K
imola
Photo
: Guy K
imola
A calm morning view of Masset Harbour.Looking from Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet to Ts'ágwaals.
GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
5554 For more information: gohaidagwaii.caFor more information: gohaidagwaii.ca
A drive 35 minutes south up Gaw Kaahlii Massett Inlet will carry
visitors through bogs and cedar for-ests, past Gantl’ Gadaas Pure Lake to Gamadiis Port Clements. This is one of seven village sites that flourished around Yaagun Kaahlii Stl’ang, an es-tuary at the mouth of Yaagun Gandlee Yakoun River to the west. With Gám-das Gandlee to its east, the mod-ern village of Gamadiis lives among abundant natural ecological wealth. The waterways shelter nine salmonid species, two lamprey species, and birds of all kinds. These nourish and maintain surrounding spruce and ce-dar old-growth forests.
The modern village at Gamadiis was
founded in 1907 under the name Queen-
stown. Residents later changed the
name to Port Clements in 1914. Today
hard-working and friendly logging fami-
lies fill the town. You will find a grocery
store, hostel, restaurant and bar, gas
station, post office, library and docks.
Some residents also maintain business-
es in adventure tourism, including kay-
aking and fishing outfits. Be certain to
stop at the Port Clements Museum to
see a terrific collection of objects that
defined Haida Gwaii’s recent history.
On the west side of town you will find
RV and camping sites at Sunset Park,
a two-kilometre trail along berry-filled
waterfront, and a walk through old-
growth at K’iid K’iiyaas K’yuu Golden
Spruce Trail. The gravel road leading
west out of Gamadiis turns south to a
vast network of logging roads. These
roads will lead you to Chaahluu Kaahlii
Rennell Sound and Yaagun Yakoun Lake.
It can be easy to get lost. You will need
accurate maps, and a VHF radio tuned
to the local frequency is recommended.
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
TOW HILL RD
Eagle Road
Sangan Dr
Naikoon Ave
SGANGAN GANDLEE Sangan River
TSAAWAN
GAN
DLEE Chown River
SGIDLII GANDLEE
White Creek
HL'YAALAN GANDLEE Hiellen River
YAAGUN Yakan Point (IR)
TAAW Tow Hill
HL’YAALAN GALGUUSDAgate Beach Campground
HL'YAALANHiellen Campground
SIIGEE Dixon Entrance
Tugwaal KeyholeBeach Access
SGaanuwee Supernatural Beings inhabit all corners of Haida Gwaii.
You can find many of them very eas-ily. Just a half-hour drive east from Masset you will find Taaw Tlldaawee Tow Hill. You can drive a gravel road through old-growth forests, then fol-low a boardwalk to Taaw’s foot. With a flooding tide and strong swell you will see Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole throwing sea spray high into the air.
You will find Hl’yaalang village on the
eastern bank of Hl’yaalang Gandlee.
K'iygang the Haida canon of oral his-
tories confirm, this village is one of the
many villages existing below and above
it, where SGaanuwee live. Sprawling
sandy and stony beaches, old-growth
forests and diverse bog ecosystems
characterize the surrounding area. In
ou r phys i ca l
r e a lm , ma ny
neighbouring vil-
lages concentrated along this coastline.
The concentration of Haida households
here may have supplied the area with
its nam:; Naay Kun House Point.
From Hl’yaalang, hikers can access
the Cape Fife Trail. If the 12-hour
walk won’t suffice, then the three-
day East Beach Trail stretches south
to Tll.aal. Along the way you will pass
through domains of numerous SGaanu-
wee, among whom live Gaahllnaas,
Utláaman, Gadaa K’aw, Gaaw XanhlGa
Sk’aajawaay, Xaasa, Kiid Gaataalaa,
SGuuhlGuu Kuuna, Nang Na Sandlanee
‘Giidangwaas, Tl’aajaang Kuuna and
NáaGa Saandllnaa Gaydangwas. Less
ambitious hikers may settle for SGidlii
Gandlee K’yuuwee White Creek Trail,
an easy two to three hour-long walk
through beautiful bog ecosystems.
You will find numerous cabins and
campsites in the area, plus gift shops
and a coffee bus. Every year a few vis-
itors lose their vehicles during a drive
on the beach, to the annoyance and at
times amusement of Islands residents.
Don’t risk being “that guy”. Do not take
rental vehicles out on the beach, and do
not drive above the high tide mark or on
sensitive razor clams beds. Be respect-
ful of the environment you are in.
TOW HILL RD
BAYVIEW DR
BAYVIEW DR
Ced
ar A
ve W
Ced
ar A
ve E
Tingley St
Yakoun St
Ald
er A
ve
Williams St BAYVIEW DR
Jasper St
Wat
er S
t
HIGHWAY 16
To Masset
Park St
Hem
lock
St
Hem
lock
St
Spru
ce S
t
Park St
Dyson St
Ryland Rd To Tll.aalTlell
Industrial Park Rd
To:
Sunset Park RV & Campground(on pavement)
K’iid K’iyaas Golden Spruce trail
(on active logging roads)
Gra
vel w
alki
ng p
ath
Port Clements Community Park
Rainbow Wharf
Boat Harbour
GAW KAAHLII Masset Inlet
Nyeholt Rd
YELLOWHEAD
16
Grouse St
HL’YAALANG WAAGUSD NORTH BEACH & HL’YAALANG HIELLEN
Tow Hill Community Kiosk & Beach Access
Froe
se S
ub
Sunset Park Trail
CFB Masset“Elephant Cage”
Ops/Skonun PointBeach Access
To Masset
N
N
Limberlost Ave
Village Office
SGIDLII GANDLEE K'YUU White Creek trail
Port Clements Museum & Info Centre
The Rainbow Wharf.
Photo
: Flavie
n M
abit
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
5756 For more information: gohaidagwaii.caFor more information: gohaidagwaii.ca
A brisk 20-minute drive south from Gamadiis Port Clem-
ents will bring you to Tll.aal. Tll.aal Gandlaay the Tlell River winds over 55 kilometres inland. Plentiful salmon return to spawn and support residents, just as they did when the site was a bustling Haida village, sev-eral thousand years old. Several daa.a house foundations are only around 150 years old; a testament to the area’s natural wealth. These houses were classic monumental cedar structures. In summer, Haida gathered in the area before departing for the mainland in canoe armadas.
Today gorgeous shorelines, old-growth
forests, rich rivers and beautiful
birds draw beachcombers, hikers,
fishers and birders alike. More serious
hikers can access East Beach Trail on
Tll.aal Gandlaay’s north shore. You can
also settle for the day hike through
old growth to the shipwreck along
Pesuta Trail. The Anvil Trail will take
you through flourishing rainforest along
Tll.aal Gandlaay’s southern banks.
Hungry hikers can enjoy fine dining
at a restaurant and bar along Tll.aal
Gandlaay. Sleepy ones can rest at a
lodge resort, choose from several bed
and breakfasts or settle in at the Misty
Meadows provincial campground. The
next morning the local coffee house will
get you started off right. To remember
your adventures, a few artisanal stores
and studios will connect you with
talented local artists.
TLL.AAL TLELL
YELLOWHEAD
16
HIGHWAY 16
Beitu
sh R
d
Andrews Place Rd
Misty Meadows
Campground
Wiggins Rd
Richardson Rd
Brandt Rd
Anvil trail
Tlell Fall Fair Grounds
Naikoon Park Headquarters
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE
YELLOWHEAD
16
HIGHWAY 16
Guud K'yuu
litl'xid K'iiw
aay
GuuhlGa Siiwaay K'yuuSpirit Lake trail
Stlaay K'yuu
K'ang K'ihl K'yuu
Front St
Guulaay K'iiwaay
Pesuta / East Beach trailhead
Beach Access
K'yuu K'uu7an
Sdal K
'iiwaa
y
Hlt'alga K
'yuu B
alanc
e Rock
Rd
HIGHWAY 16
Sk'aadgaa Naay
Elementary School
Council of the Haida Nation
Skidegate Office
SHIP Building
Skidegate Small Hall
Haida Heritage Centre, Gwaii Haanas Offices, Haida Gwaii Museum
Tlell Fire Hall
Richardson Ranch Vet Clinic &
Feed store
KANDALIIGWIIHecate Strait
KANDALIIGWIIHecate Strait
N
N
Visitors arriving at GuhlGa Llnagaay Skidegate Landing can drive four
minutes north to get to HlGaagilda Skidegate. The village’s primary Haida name means “Place of Stone”. The mod-ern village stretches across four sep-arate village sites including K’uust’an Xaana to the north, HlGaagilda towards its centre, and ‘Laana Xaajuuwaay and HlGaaxid at its south. Haida history here reaches back to the late glacial maximum, when ice sculpted the hills and eskers now hidden beneath thick rainforests. You can see the clearest signs of these vanishing beings along the coasts where they left trails of boulders, called moraine deposits, be-hind.
HlGaa K’aayhllnga Balance Rock
represents one of these boulders,
delicately set in place by a powerful
glacier. Visitors are welcome to explore
the inlet’s beautiful swimming beaches,
but please show respect to this SGaana
Supernatural Being. To explore the woods
you can hike GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu Spirit
Lake Trail, right behind HlGaagilda. A
carved cedar panel and longhouse shelter
mark the trailhead, which will lead you on
a two-hour walk through a diversity of
forest habitats. Hikers will likely see some
of Haida Gwaii’s mammalian, amphibian,
avian and myxogastrian inhabitants.
Just as in Gaw, Haida have filled
HlGaagilda with carved cedar
monuments, which you will see
throughout town. Please admire these
living community members respectfully.
Explorers can relax at two restaurants or
make reservations for a private dinner. You
will also find a grocery store, gas station,
coffee house and gift shop.
KAY LLNAGAAYFrom HlGaagilda you can drive two minutes south to Kay Llnagaay. Haida have lived at Kay for millennia. Today it is home to the Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage Centre and Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum, which safeguard a world-class col-lection of Haida objects.
Another minute drive along the highway will bring you to the BC Ferries terminal at Guhl-Ga Llnagaay Skidegate Landing, from which visitors can reach K’il Llnagaay Sandspit and
Kxeen Prince Rupert.
K'yuu Huudjuu
T'iis K'yu
u
K'yuu Xaa7ans
St'aajuu K'yuuHlt'alga K'yuu
HlGaa
K'aayhlin
a
K'iiwaay
HlGaagilda K'iiwaay
Gan
dll
K'a
adllg
as K
'yuu
Xuuya K'yuu
Guudang.aay 'Laa HlGaa K'iiwaay
Taan
a N
aay
K'yu
u
'Laa
na X
aaju
uwaa
y K'
yuu
Gud K
'aaGwaa
s K'yu
u
To HlGaagildaSkidegate
To GamadiisPort Clements
To Daajing GiidsQueen Charlotte
SGAAY.YAS
Jewell Island
Sdaala K'iiwaay
SGiidagids K'iiwaay
T'am Gandlaay K'yuu
Photo
: Guy K
imola
Haida House
TLL.AAL GANDLAAY Tlell River
Near Wiggins Road.
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
5958 For more information: gohaidagwaii.caFor more information: gohaidagwaii.ca
The sunny village of K’il Llnagaay is one of the many dozens of village
sites that flourished along the inlet’s southern shore. Gorgeous beaches, mountain hikes, rivers and forests distinguish the surrounding country. Just on the west end of town you will find the head of Haans Creek Trail, where you can explore a little of this beauty.
In town you will find a boat launch,
restaurants, a grocery store, airport,
hostel, B&B's and the post office. A
number of fishing and adventure tour-
ism outfits will get you ready for your
next adventure in Gwaii Haanas. These
outfits can drive you along the network
of logging roads to Gawu Kuns Mores-
by Camp, an important Haida historical
site that is many thousands of years
old. Many adventures into Gwaii Haanas
start at the boat launch there.
A drive south along gravel logging roads
will bring you to ‘Laana GaayGaagings
Copper River Village, where Haida still
maintain a fishing village. Further south
you will find popular campsites at Diinal
GawGa Gray Bay. With more backroads
navigation you will find K’aayxada
TlldaGawaay Mount Moresby and
neighbouring HlGuu K’aw.was TlldaGaaw
Mosquito Mountain, both of which have
popular trails. The difficult climb is well
worth the rewards at their peaks, where
you can admire stunning views of Haida
Gwaii’s eastern and western coasts.
Another ten minutes south will bring you to Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte.
The modern village spreads across three Haida village sites, with Daajing Giids towards its eastern downtown centre, Kwahgawgid Llnagaay farther up-inlet, and Xaana at its western extremity. Daajing Giids is just one of dozens of village sites that proliferated in the rich and protected waters of Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay Skidegate Inlet.
You can explore the many islands, coves,
rivers and narrows by hiring charters based
out of the harbour at Kyahjuu GawGa
Queen Charlotte Harbour or the boat
launch at Chaana GangGaaw Gandlaay
Muncord Creek. You can get on the water
in kayaks or powerboats. Float planes fly
also out of Kyahjuu GawGa should you
prefer to skip the waves and get to your
destination by air.
In Daajing Giids you
will find a visitor’s centre, grocery store,
restaurants, accommodations, camping,
laundry, public library, post office, corner
store, repair shop, gas station and credit
union.
To the village's eastern end, hikers can
access Regier Lake Trail via Forestry Hill.
The trail leads you up the slopes behind
Daajing Giids to Regier Lake. A little far-
ther west NansGa Gandlaay K'yuu Gore
Brook Trail covers easier ground, looping
behind the village. You will find a trail-
head at the top of 8th Street. The trail
exits behind "the Fishbowl", a cul-de-sac
a little farther west. You can also walk
through old-growth forests at Kaahlgwa
Gandlaay K'yuu Crabapple Creek Trail.
While exploring forests behind Daajing
Giids, be certain to watch for trail mark-
ers carefully. A whole network of "back-
yard trails" can lead the unfamiliar astray.
Campsites are available at the western end
of town at Hayden Turner CampGround
and Kagan Bay Recreational Site. At the
end of the gravel road, called Honna Road,
you can launch boats on the north shore of
Tl’lnaa Stl’lng, the eastern end of TllGaduu
GawGa Kagan Bay. While visitors some-
times decide to camp there, you should be
aware that residents often use the area for
late night fires and to sight rifles in.
BACKROADS AND QUEEN CHARLOTTE MAINLINE
Towards the western end of Daajing Gi-
ids you can turn north to drive the Queen
Charlotte Mainline, which leads to Yaagun
Yakoun Lake and Chaahluu Kaahlii Rennell
Sound. QC Main will lead you into a net-
work of logging roads that are variously
maintained. These are working logging
roads. Visitors should bring a trusty map, a
properly tuned VHF radio and some good
sense.
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
OCEANVIEW DR
To HlGaagildaSkidegate
Haida Gwaii Hospital
Main Wharf
OCEANVIEW DR
2nd Ave
Wharf Way
3rd Ave
Causew
ay
Bay St
2nd St
2nd Ave
3rd St
2nd Ave
2nd Ave
2nd Ave
3rd Ave
4th St
6th St
5th St
7th St
9th St10th St
3rd Ave
NansGa Gandlaay K'yuu Gore Brook Trail
Village Office
GidGalang Kuuyas Naay8th St
1st St Queen Charlotte
Visitor Centre
To Haydn Turner Campground,Rennell Sound
K’IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
BEACH RD
Sandspit Airport
BEA
CH
RD
School Rd
Park Rd
Spur Rd
Dover R
d Spruce Rd
CO
PPER BAY M
AIN
LINE
Rad
io R
d
Tacan Rd
Beban Rd
Blaine
Shaw Rd
Agnes L Mathers Elementary School
Sandspit Harbour
XAANA KAAHLII GAWGAAYSkidegate Inlet
XAANA KAAHLII GAWGAAYSkidegate Inlet
N
N
Giiyang Gwaay
Robertson Isla
nd
Gwaay Sgaaguuds
Gooden Island
To Diinal GawGaGray Bay
To Gaats’iiGundaayAlliford Bay Ferry
ALLIFORD BAY RD
Christina Pl
Mountain
Ash Rd
Sandspit Airport Loop
Photo
: Flavie
n M
abit
Bird watching.
60 61
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
GWAAY HAANAS GIINAA.GA GYAAGANG.NGAAY DANG GYAAXA GWAII HAANAS LEGACY POLE
Raised at: Hlk’yah GawGa Windy Bay
Date raised: August 15, 2013
Lead carver: Jaalen Edenshaw
Assistant carvers: Gwaai Edenshaw, John Brent Bennett and StllnGa Tyler York
Figures (bottom to top): K'aal, Xuuajii, Five Good People Standing Together, Nang Kilsdlaas, Kuuya GyaaGandal, 'WaasGo, Xaa, K'awkaa, Gina Ga Kyahts'as HlGunuhl, and Ts'aag
TANG.GWAN OPEN OCEAN
Date raised: 2014
Raised at: K’il Llnagaay Sandspit
Lead carvers: Jesse Jones, Jimmy Jones, Jason Goetzinger
XAANA KAAHLII NGAAYSDLL NAAY GYAAGANGAAY
Raised at: Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte, at Xaaynangaa Naay Haida Gwaii Hospital
Date raised: June 23, 2018
Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko
Assistant carvers: Kwakyans Tony Greene, Kuuhlanuu Billy Yovanovich, StllnGa Tyler York
Figures (bottom to top): Taan and Western Doctor, SnaanGa, Nang Kilsdlaas, Weeping Infant, Laada’s Self-portrait, SGaaga, Ts’aag, tllga Kyahts’ii XaaydaGaay
XUUYA RAVEN
Date raised: June 12, 2015
Location: Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte at Kwahgawgid, Gidgalang Kuuyas Naay Secondary School
Lead carvers: Jesse Jones, Jimmy Jones, Jason Goetzinger
TS'AAG EAGLE
Date raised: June 12, 2015
Location: Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte at Kwahgawgid, Gidgalang Kuuyas Naay Secondary School
Lead carvers: Jesse Jones, Jimmy Jones, Jason Goetzinger
HLGAAGILDA
Date raised: June 4-9, 2001
Location: Kay Llnagaay
Lead carver: Gaahyaa Norman Price
Figures (bottom to top): Xuuajii, XaaydaGaay Sding, Ts'aag, Kaagan, Xuuya, Gina Ga Ga Kyahts’as
TS’AAHL
Date raised: June 4-9, 2001
Location: Kay Llnagaay
Lead carver: Stlin’ll Garner Moody
Figures (bottom to top): Ts’ing, K'aa Gwaay, Taan, Xuuya, Ts'aag
HLKINUL
Date raised: June 4-9, 2001
Location: Kay Llnagaay
Lead carver: Gidansda Guujaaw
Figures (bottom to top): ChaaGan Xuuajii, Hiilanga transforming into human, St’aw, Ts'aag, Gina Ga Ga Kyahts’as with SGaana
K’UUNA
Date raised: June 4-9, 2001
Location: Kay Llnagaay
Lead carver: 7idansuu Jim Hart
Figures (bottom to top): Xuuajii, ts'il sding SGaana, Maat, Xuuya, Kung with Taawla and Kwiiawah, Gina Ga Ga Kyahts’as
GYAAGANG.NGAAY
MONUMENTAL POLES
OF HAIDA GWAII
After the trees arrived in Haida Gwaii, SGaanuwee Supernatural Beings showed
Kuuniisii Haida ancestors how to carve gyaa'aang monumental poles. The Haida word for monumental pole is related to the word gyaa'aa stand up. After Haida carve, dance, and raise them, gyaaGang or gyaa'aang become living community members.
Gyaa'aang bring communities together and span generations. They remind people of a household's powerful lineage, celebrate the wealth and provision of a generation, or honour the memory of an es-teemed community member. They can be said to be divided into three general categories: gwaaygiiGang crest poles, 'waahlGahl gyaaGang or ‘waahl’ahl gyaa’aang potlatch poles, and saahlin gyaaGang or saahlang Xaad mortuary poles. While such events are rare, Haida and their coastal neighbours also raise gyaa'aang to ridicule a person for behaving shamefully.
Haida carvers bring countless other creations into existence, including interior house columns, smaller decorative pieces, model houses and poles. Haida carve gyaa'aang primarily with ts'uu Western red ce-dar, but sometimes use other materials such as argil-lite. They also cast figures and poles in other material such as bronze, resin, silver and gold. Haida carvers most often bring their creations into our world for specific purposes, to honour kuuniisii, someone's lin-eage, or sGaanuwee.
You will find gyaaGang throughout Haida Gwaii. We encourage you to admire our living community mem-bers from a respectful distance.
62 63
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
WEEPING WOMAN OF T’AANUU
Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate
Lead carver: Gaahyah Norman Price Sr
CHIEFTAINSHIP POLE TO HONOUR MATRIARCH KII'ILJUUS BARB WILSON
Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate
Lead carver: Gitkinjuuwas Ronald Wilson
STRONGMAN
Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate at Sk’aadgaa Naay Elementary School
Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko
GIDANSDA PERCY WILLIAMS MEMORIAL
Date raised: Summer 2017
Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate at 'Laana Gaahllnaas the Ball Field
Lead carver: Gidansda Guujaaw
GUD AD KIIGAWAAY GYAAGANG.NGAAY BORN TOGETHER CLAN POLE
Date raised: July 31, 2016
Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate in front of Dave’s Take-out
Lead carver: St’inll Garner Moody
Assistant carvers: Kwakyans Tony Greene, Laada Tim Boyko, StllnGa Tyler York
EAGLE AND BEAR MOTHER
Date raised: 1993
Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate at the entrance to GuuhlGa Siiwaay K'yuu Spirit Lake trail
Lead carver: Dick Bellis
WIIGAANAD SID CROSBY NAA ‘UUWANS
Date raised: May 1, 2011
Location: K’uust’an Xaana
Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko and Jason Goetzinger
Figures (bottom to top): Xuuajii holding SGaana, Xuuya, K’aaxada, Ts’aag, Daajing sgilgaay
XAAD XILAA GYAAHLAANG GYAA’AANG MEDICINE STORY POLE
Date raised: May 18, 2009
Location: Masset in front K’aa’diya Northern Haida Gwaii Hospital
Lead carver: Kihlguulans Christian White
Assistants: Ga'uu Derek White and T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon White
Apprentices: Jerome McDonald, Yaahl iiwaans Bryce Williams, Neil Goertzen, Yaahl SGwaansang Eugene Davidson, Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy White
Finishing assistant: Tak'iitaayaa Corey Bulpitt
YAAHL RAVEN ENTRANCE MONUMENT
Date raised: June 21, 2010
Location: Masset at K’aa’diya Northern Haida Gwaii Hospital
Lead carver: Cooper Wilson
T’AANUU
Date raised: June 4-9, 2001
Location: Kay Llnagaay
Lead carver: Gitkinjuuwas Ronald Wilson
Assistant carver: Vicky Moody
Figures (bottom to top): SGaana, Xuuya, Guujii, K’aaxada, Ts'aag
SGANG GWAAY
Date raised: June 4-9, 2001
Location: Kay Llnagaay
Lead carver: Laada Tim Bokyo
Assistant carvers: Ga'uu Derek White, Eric Wilson
Figures (bottom to top): Taan, Ts’ing, K’yaaluu, Ts'aag
GIDANSDA JIMMY WILSON MEMORIAL
Location: HlGaagilda Skidegate
Lead carver: Bert Wilson and Joe Mander
Assistant carver: Gordy Mills
64 65
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
GUUD AD YAAHL MONUMENTS
Date raised: June 21, 2010
Location: Tlaga Gawtlaas New Town
Lead carvers: Giits'anaagaas Todd White and Ga'uu Derek White
WIIAA CHIEF MATTHEWS
Date raised: 2003
Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett
Lead carver: skil qaat’la.aas Reg Davidson
FAMILY CENTRE POLE
Date raised: June 21, 2010
Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett
Lead carver: T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon White
SKILAY MEMORIAL
Date raised: 2003
Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett at the Gwaii Trust Building
Lead carver: 7idansuu Jim Hart
RAVEN HOUSE
Date raised: 2010
Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett at the Old Massett Village Council Administration Building
Lead carver: k'aajuu Xial Donnie Edenshaw
K’YAALUU EAGLE HOUSE
Date raised: 2010
Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett at the Old Massett Village Council Administration Building
Lead carver: Jaalen Edenshaw
HEALTH CENTRE MONUMENT
Date raised: June 21, 2010
Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett at the Old Massett Village Council Administration Building
Lead carver: Laada Tim Boyko
AMANDA EDGARS MEMORIAL
Date raised: 1992
Location: Ts’ágwaals in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett
Lead carver: Paul White
ST. JOHN’S CHURCH
Date raised: 1969
Location: Gad Gaywáas at St John’s Anglican Church in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett
Lead carver: Guud San Glans Robert Davidson
GUUD EAGLE ENTRANCE MONUMENT
Date raised: June 21, 2010
Location: Masset at K’aa’diya Northern Haida Gwaii Hospital
Lead carver: Nang K'iida Leegas Jordon Seward
KIHLGUULANS GEOFFREY WHITE MEMORIAL
Date raised: 2006
Location: Gaw Tlagee Old Massett in front Tluu Xaada Naay
Lead carver: Kihlguulans Christian White
Assistants: Ga'uu Derek White, T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon White, Ta k'iit aayaa Corey Bulpitt, Neil Goertzen, Yaahl sGwaansang Eugene Davidson
Figures: The monument features a shark at the bottom. The t'aaw copper shields represent Geoffery White's siblings. A white raven sits atop the monument.
7IDANSUU MORRIS WHITE POTLATCH MONUMENT
Date raised: 1995
Location: Gaw Tlagee Old Massett in front Tluu Xaada Naay
Lead carvers: 7idansuu Jim Hart and Kihlguulans Christian White
Assistant carvers: Ga'uu Derek White, Laada Tim Boyko, Giits'anaagaas Todd White
66 67
Haida gwaii Trip Planner
K’AADSNEE SHARK HOUSE
Date raised: 1986
Location: Gad Gaywáas in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett
Lead carver: skil qaat’la.aas Reg Davidson
STAASTAS 7IDANSUU MORRIS WHITE MEMORIAL
Date raised: 1999
Location: Gad Gaywáas in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett
Lead carvers: 7idansuu Jim Hart and eagle by Kihlguulans Christian White
YAN RAVEN
Date raised: 1973
Location: Gad Gaywáas by the ball field in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett
Lead carver: HlGawangdlii Skilaa Lawrence Bell
YAN EAGLE
Date raised: 1973
Location: Gad Gaywáas by the ball field in Gaw Tlagee Old Massett
Lead carver: HlGawangdlii Skilaa Lawrence Bell
HL’YAALAN SOLSTICE POLE
Date raised: June 21, 2017
Location: Hl’yáalan 'Llngee Hiellen village
Lead carver: Kihlguulans Christian White
Assistant carvers: T'aaw Iihaanaas Vernon White, Ga'uu Derek White, Shayanna Brown, Hak’wanan Jay Bellis, Janeka Bell, Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy White, Shane Bell, Skilaaw Captain Stewart-Burton, Jaadaa Haanaas Tiffany Boyko, ShayIana Brown, Liihang Langaa Paul Byron
Finishing assistants: Gunii Roger Smith, Ta k'iit aayaa Corey Bullpit
Figures (bottom to top): kilslaay holding t’aaw in the arms of his wife, Xuuts, two Xuuts gidalang in ears, Ts’ing, Xuaajii GidGalang, Sgyamsun blue mountain hawk, Sparrow Hawk, hlk’yan K’uust’an, Xuuajii transforming, K’uuxan in its mouth, two more hlk’yan K’uust’an, man wearing Guud K’al, Nang kilslaas, iihll.ngas kyahjuu llGaayGa, nang jaada kyahjuu llGaayGa
TAAW
Date raised: 2016
Location: Taaw Tow Hill
Lead carver: Ga'uu Derek White
Assistants: Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy White, and Diana White
Figure: a portrait of Taaw
HAAPII
Date raised: 2016
Location: Taaw Tow Hill
Lead carver: Ga'uu Derek White
Assistants: Stlaana Jaadaas Daisy White, and Diana White
Story: Haapii is the hero who killed a beast living atop Taaw. The creature’s helpers, a kun whale and Guud eagle, left their marks at Taaw in the form of the blowhole and the scratches on the rocks in front of Taaw sdaal Tow Hill.
YAAN POLE
Date raised: 1991
Location: Yaan Yan
Lead carver: 7idansuu Jim Hart
68 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 69
Maybe the people who chose “Gray” for
the English name had a hidden motive
besides another honour for Captain
Robert Gray, the sharp-dealing Boston
fur trader who sailed up east coast
Haida Gwaii in the summer of 1789.
Haida know the bay as Diinal GawGa,
and the larger peninsula to the south
as Kunxalas, or pierced nose.
Kunxalas took on new meaning in 2008
when the area and nearby Kunts'ii
DiiNal GawGa A long slow sandy curve
Gray Bay is about as grey as the lush green of Greenland. Wind-sheltered and shallow, the wide, east-facing bay is actually one of the islands’ favourite summer spots. Especially on a calm day with a rising tide, the water warms
nicely as it rolls over the fine sand of Gray Bay’s 5km crescent beach.
Sheldens Lagoon, Kunxalas Cumshewa
Head, and K'aasda GawGa the Copper
River estuary all became part of the
Kunxalas protected area that covers
the northeast coast of Moresby Island.
Off-limits to logging and other ex-
tractive uses, Kunxalas is one of 11
mainly coastal areas around Haida
Gwaii that is protected by the Haida
Nation as a heritage site, and by the
government of BC as a conservancy.
Just west of Sandspit is another, small-
er protected area, Damaxyaa, which in-
cludes the Dover Trail and K'il, a historic
Haida seasonal camp by the mouth of
Daamaxyah Gandlaay, or Haans Creek.
While they are not so well known, the
11 protected areas on Haida Gwaii
are actually larger than world-famous
Gwaii Haanas
When mapped along with Haida Gwaii’s
provincial parks and ecological re-
serves, it’s clear that over half the land
on Haida Gwaii is permanently protect-
ed for cultural, spiritual, ecological, and
recreational uses.
Today, Haida collect food, medicinal
plants, cedar bark and other cultural
materials from Kunxalas and the other
areas as they have done for well over
14,000 years.
There are at least five historic villag-
es or seasonal camps in Kunxalas,
including Lanaaya Llnagaay, Kunts'ii
Llnagaay, Hlkinul Llnagaay, KuuGahl, and
Kunxalas Llnagaay.
Along the protected shoreline are
seabird colonies, sea lion haul-outs,
extensive kelp beds, and habitat for
shellfish such as abalone, geoduck,
and razor clams. The 2,350 hectares of
old-growth forest in Kunxalas may also
be home to a few of the endangered
Haida Gwaii subspecies of Northern
goshawk.
And among the mostly hemlock and
cedar forest in Kunxalas runs K'aasda
GawGa the Copper River and other
fish-bearing streams that host Coho
salmon, Dolly Varden, sculpin, Rainbow
trout and Cutthroat trout.
Starting on School Road in K'il Llnagaay
Sandspit and heading south, the route
to Diinal GawGa goes by the Sandspit
Airport and Willows Golf Course before
passing through the shoreline neighbour-
hood of Hardingville and onto an unpaved
logging road, the Copper Bay Mainline.
From here, it is a bumpy but scenic 21 km
drive south. After following the Copper
Bay Mainline for 14 km, there is a single,
well-signed left turn onto Gray Bay Road
for the final stretch to the campground.
The first sights along the drive are
towering rock and the opening of K'aasda
GawGa Copper Bay, where Haida families
gather every year to harvest returning
coho and sockeye. In 1862, settlers
excited by the prospects of copper ore
dug a 190-foot mine shaft in the area, but
it was soon abandoned and filled in by
1909 for safety.
After going by the many fishing cabins,
the road passes around a river bend
and you see the first full view of the
Copper River threading through the
forest to drain Skidegate Lake and the
surrounding 180 km2 watershed.
The Copper Mainline hugs the river and
passes by a tidal lagoon before com-
ing to the turnoff for Gray Bay Road. A
short drive later, campers who want an
even quieter spot than Diinal GawGa
can turn left towards Kunts'ii Sheldens
Bay recreation site, which has three
campsites.
After crossing a creek bridge, the road
finally reaches Diinal GawGa the Gray
Bay campground. Spread out just be-
hind the dunes are 20 large beachfront
campsites perfect for group trips or
families — campers need to treat the
nearby stream water or bring their own,
but each site has a fire pit, privy, and
hewn-log picnic table.
Just before the bridge is a left turn to
the Secret Cove trailhead. An easy hike
of about 1 km, Secret Cove is a fine
walk for families and passes several
tall Sitka spruce on the way to a pebble
beach. In December 2018, a fierce
windstorm whipped over Kunxalas
Cumshewa Head with gusts of up to
166 km/h — it’s the most likely culprit
for a pair of large windblown trees that
recently fell across the trail but are
easy enough to walk around or clamber
over.
For a longer hike that is about a 10 km
round trip, walk to the end of Gray Bay
Below: Trail markers installed in 2018.
Photo: Andrew Hudson
By Andrew Hudson
70 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 71
They fly at speed in mature and old-
growth forest — swift, silent and grey.
With yellow talons and piercing orange
eyes, they hunt small birds and mam-
mals by diving down from the treetops.
Sometimes they stalk prey by walking
the forest floor.
Stads k’un or Haida Gwaii goshawks,
have always been tricky to see.
Darker than their continental cousins,
the raven-sized raptors are extremely
nimble fliers that prefer to stay in the
forest.
Used as falconry birds across Eurasia
for thousands of years, stads k'un can
turn in a flash and wheel quick around
branches, thanks to their short wide
wings and long, rudder-like tail.
On Haida Gwaii, stads k’un prefer to
hunt a huge area of forest — at 70 to
110 km2, the typical foraging area is
bigger than Manhattan.
Two years ago, Haida citizens at the
Nation’s House of Assembly voted to
recognize stads k’un as Haida Gwaii’s
national bird. A recent genomic study is
shedding new light on the birds, show-
ing just how unique and endangered
they really are.
Best estimates suggest there may only
be 50 goshawks left on Haida Gwaii.
Logging the islands’ old-growth forests
dramatically reduced their habitat, and
the deer introduced to Haida Gwaii over
a century ago have spread and munched
away much of the forest understory that
provided habitat for their prey.
In 1940, ornithologist Percy Algernon
Taverner identified the islands’ stads
k’un as part of a darker, slightly smaller
subspecies, Accipiter gentilis laingi, that
differs from most other northern stads
k'un in North America.
Based on what he could observe at
the time, Taverner thought the subspe-
cies ranged throughout the BC coast
and Vancouver Island. But with so few
samples and physical features hard to
distinguish, there has long been debate
about the extent of the laingi range.
Late last year, researchers at Univer-
sity of British Columbia’s Biodiversity
Research Centre published a two-part
genomic study that found Haida Gwaii
stads k’un are genetically distinct — they
appear to have evolved separately since
the last ice age ended 20,000 years ago,
raising sea levels and flooding all of Kan-
daliiGwii Hecate Strait.
More work needs to be done to defini-
tively identify the Haida Gwaii stads k’un
as a subspecies, but in the meantime, the
UBC study will inform a new conserva-
tion plan that aims to protect the birds
from extinction. Already, a Haida Gwaii
land-use order – the rules and regula-
tions governing logging on the islands –
protects 200 hectares of forest around
any known nest sites, and the old-growth
and mature forests in Gwaii Haanas and
the other protected areas that cover
about half the Haida Gwaii are providing
more habitat.
But with so few left on the islands, their
precarious existence is one of concern
and focused attention. Teams of peo-
ple are out on the land watching for the
birds and in offices developing plans to
ensure populations not only remain sta-
ble but begin to rebound in the very near
future.
Road until it becomes overgrown and
leads to the former site of a LORAN
marine radio station that operated
from 1971 to 1979.
From here there is a short trail to
Iitl'lgas Kun Gray Point, at the south
end of the bay. At low tide, you can
also reach Iitl'lgas Kun by walking along
the shoreline, where fallen trees can
help you cross a few streams.
While the shallow waters of the bay
and surrounding waters can be tricky
for ships, in 1987 it proved a perfect
landing spot for those paddling the
Lootaas Wave Eater — the 15-metre
cedar canoe carved by Iljuuwas Bill
Reid, for Expo ’86. After paddling 600
nautical miles north from T'agwan Van-
couver, it was on the open sands of
Diinal GawGa Gray Bay the paddlers
chose to rest and make their first steps
back home.
Stads k’UN
A really sharp turn
Below: Secluded beaches offer shelter from the wind.
Photo: Andrew Hudson
By Graham Richard/Council of the Haida Nation
72 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 73
Touring Haida Gwaii with the Ocean
Bridge conservation program, the youth
stopped to join an annual spring clean-up
where local volunteers fan out from the
Hl'yáalan Gandlee Hiellen River towards
Nee Kun Rose Spit and rid the dunes of
washed-up debris.
In the wake of the deadly 2011 Tōhoku
earthquake and tsunami that hit north-
east Japan, such marine debris captured
Wearing well-earned smiles and glistening rain jackets, a group of 40 youth from across Canada posed for a trophy shot on Hl’yaalang waagusd North
Beach last May. Their catch? Three pickup trucks stacked high with bags full of sandy plastic bottles, nylon fishing nets, buoys, chunks of Styrofoam, and a single flip-flop shoe.
international attention — among the
things that washed from Japan onto
Haida Gwaii a year later was a crated
Harley Davidson motorcycle, rusted but
intact. Stories about the tsunami debris
finally trickled to a stop. But plastics
keep washing into the ocean and onto
Haida Gwaii.
An estimated eight million tonnes of
plastic gets into the ocean each year,
We are jUst at tHe BeginningMicro plastics in the most remote regions
Photo opposite: Marine debris pile up at Hibben Island.
Below: A stalwart crew of volunteers with a load picked up from Ellen Island.
Photos: Highlander Marine
mostly from land-based sources. Two-
thirds washes in with road runoff, and
a quarter comes from wastewater,
including the hundreds of thousands of
plastic microfibres released with a typ-
ical laundry load.
If current trends continue, says a recent
report by the Ellen MacArthur Founda-
tion, by 2050 all the plastic in the ocean
could well outweigh the fish.
By Andrew Hudson
74 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 75
Along with organizing clean-ups —
including difficult expeditions by boat
to gather debris from Gwaii Haanas
and Haida Gwaii’s remote west coast —
islanders are looking at ways to stop the
flow.
One of the latest has a name worthy of
an ear-splitting heavy metal band: Cloe
the Pyrolyzer.
“Cloe” is actually a new plastics-to-fuel
machine being piloted by students at
Gudangaay Tlaats’gaa Naay Secondary
in Masset.
Basically, Cloe can melt, vaporize, burn,
and cool certain kinds of plastic into a
diesel-like fuel — her nickname comes
from ClH20, the fuel’s chemical formula.
“The machine up-cycles the plastic back
into the fuel that it was made from,”
says biology teacher Daniel Schulbeck,
speaking in the school science class.
The machine handles Type 2, 4, and 5
plastics — a group that doesn’t include
single-use water bottles, but does
include yogurt containers, milk jugs, and
bottles for shampoo.
A group that tried a similar machine in
Whitehorse had a better result with
washed-up marine plastics than with
plastics from the local recycling plant,
likely because of human sorting errors at
the plant.
“Really, the ocean self-sorts,” Schulbeck
said, noting how Type 2, 4, and 5 plastics
tend to float high in the water.
Students will start by up-cycling batches
of similar plastics from the school,
including thousands of obsolete VHS cas-
settes (minus the tapes and hardware, the
cassettes are all Type 5).
One kilogram of plastic makes about a
litre of fuel, and there are at least 2,000
VHS tapes in the district office alone,
Schulbeck said.
“There is 400 litres of diesel sitting in that
room.”
Next, the students will have to decide
what to do with the fuel. One idea is to
boil Haida Gwaii seawater to make sea
salt.
a chance to see the organic chemistry
they’re learning in action.
“Our fuel is not only free, it’s already paid
for itself twice,” he said.
“One, we’ve reduced plastic. Two, we’ve
learned about it in the classroom.”
Danny Robertson is another student of
marine plastics, but for five years after the
Tōhoku tsunami in Japan, his classroom
was the true edge of the world — Haida
Gwaii’s remote and rugged west coast.
A boat captain and co-owner of High-
lander Marine, Robertson was one of
several islanders hired to clean tsunami
debris off the Haida Gwaii coastline.
The Tōhoku event swept an estimated
20 million tonnes into the Pacific. But the
expected echo “wave” of debris never
really came.
“By the third year, we stopped calling it
‘tsunami debris,’” Robertson says.
Gwaii every year. Some comes from com-
mercial fishing, but mainly it’s a random
sweep of world garbage.
“If we had an oil spill on our coast, the
world would be watching. We would
be right there and have every resource
thrown at it,” Robertson said, noting that
plastic is oil-based. “We do have an oil
spill happening — it’s just happening in
slow motion.”
While it was often heartbreaking, Rob-
ertson said the tsunami clean-up began
with an “outstanding act of kindness and
generosity” from Japan. Even it reeled
from a deadly disaster, the country
donated $1 million toward cleaning the
West Coast.
“The Japanese gave us a gift,” Robertson
said — not only money, but the first
chance to do a multi-year survey showing
just how much plastic debris washes up,
and where.
Photo opposite: Lucky boot at Juu GawGa Boomchain Bay.
Below: Plastic bottles, plastic rope and more .typically wash up daily on the beach of Haida Gwaii.
Photos: Highlander Marine
“It’s a negative-waste product,” said
Schulbeck, perhaps the first made on
Haida Gwaii.
The salt could be flavoured and sold
through the high school greenhouse pro-
gram — an existing social enterprise that
helped pay for Cloe the Pyrolyzer.
“We’ll see how far we go with it,” said
Schulbeck, adding that the whole project
also gives Grade 10 science students
Even in 2014, the first year of the
clean-up, he said only a fifth of the
debris was definitively from Japan. Even
less could be traced to the tsunami itself.
Instead, after returning year after year
to the same west-coast bays and inlets
— places even Highlander crews would
rarely see otherwise — Robertson said
it dawned on everyone what a huge
amount of plastic washes onto Haida
WHy we LOvE hAiDa GWAii
77TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII76 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII
Robertson remembers standing by a pair
of Japanese scientists who flew to Haida
Gwaii to open the one they recovered,
and the look on their faces when they
saw the equipment inside was still running.
“As it turns out, that sensor happened to
be the one deployed on the southeast
corner of the epicenter,” Robertson said.
“It carried incredible data — priceless.”
Haida Gwaii is a natural catchment zone.
Any debris that doesn’t get captured
by the “strainer” of the west coast bays
and inlets can sweep around to the east
coast, carried by the strong currents
moving north and south of Haida Gwaii
and into Hecate Strait.
Robertson said a rough rule of thumb is
that areas with lots of driftwood draw
lots of plastics — a complex combina-
tion of ocean currents, prevailing winds
and refracting waves tends to create
“hotspots” along the coast.
But there are surprises, such as at Gudal
Bay, a long deep bay on the west coast
where crews expected lots of debris and
found next to none. A similar bay nearby
had boatloads.
Funding for the tsunami clean-up ended
in 2018, but it sparked a coast-wide net-
work of interested, front-line people that
includes First Nations, B.C. municipal-
ities, and non-profits such as the Living
Oceans Society. They recently spoke with
a Vancouver MP keen to start an ongoing
federal response.
Robertson noted that the Haida have
found marine debris for thousands of
years, much of it valuable. Storm-blown
Japanese fishing boats occasionally
washed up with metals aboard. Even
today, local millers talk about sea-borne
mahogany as “East Beach cedar.”
And even among all the trash, in 2014,
Robertson and his crew did find one real
treasure from Tōhoku — a 250-pound
steel float belonging to the University of
Tokyo. The steel alone cost $300,000,
but inside was a seismometer with some-
thing far more valuable.
Several of Japan’s ocean-floor seismome-
ters broke loose in the 2011 earthquake.
Most were recovered, but two were lost.
Below: The Highlander Ranger carts another load home for proper disposal.
Photo: Highlander Marine Brianna Julian
Miranda Post
Naa Kaa Klaagangs
Ernie Gladstone
Jarrod fregin
Laura Bishop
I live here because Haida Gwaii is still a place
where hard work and a community mindset can
make an idea a reality. I also enjoy the balance
of having as many opportunities for sociability as
for solitude. And if I were to live anywhere else, I
wouldn't know the names of all the dogs.
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE
The people, family, community, land
and the water, and the relationship
each of these has with each other.
I love waking up to see the ocean every day.
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE
The nature, abundant food
resources, and of course
the amazing people
and Haida culture 💗.
I love how connected and
engaged people here are.
I'm just as likely to meet a
newborn baby as I am to
meet an 80 year old great
grandparent at most
community events.
78 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII
GWAII HAANAS
Make your connection.
Faites votre connexion.
Hla gudGll sGaagid.
pc.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas
HAIDA NATION
WELCOME TO THE ISLANDS OF BEAUTY
Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site
is a wild place. With no road access, stores, cell phone coverage and little signage, it is a true wilderness expe-rience.
Gwaii Haanas is not only home to a plethora of unique sub-
species and environments, it is also home to Haida. Today the
Council of the Haida Nation and the Government of Canada
manage Gwaii Haanas through a cooperative agreement. They
work together through the Archipelago Management Board,
which protects Gwaii Haanas from sea floor to mountain peak.
Gwaii Haanas visitors can paddle kayaks or catch the wind
sailing through waters alongside sGaana killer whales, skul Pa-
cific white-sided dolphins and kay Steller sea lions. They may
see pods of kun humpbacks breaching and flicking their tail
flukes as they gorge on the bounty of the Gwaii Haanas marine
area. Visitors can float through K’iid Xyangs K’iidaay Burnaby
Narrows, teeming with intertidal life, and see a vast array of
different species at lower tides.
Haida have lived among the sGaanawaay supernatural beings
of Haida Gwaii at least since the end of the ice age, and have
managed Gwaii Haanas to maintain its ecological integrity for
at least 14,500 years. Kayak along shorelines teeming with sea
stars, walk amid towering, century-old monumental poles and
soak up the moss-shrouded magic of 1,884 islands and islets. In
the summer, activities range from one-day guided boat trips to
extended boating or kayaking adventures.
PLANNING YOUR VISIT
Gwaii Haanas balances recreation with protection of the natural
and cultural features that attract people. With this in mind, the
number of visitors entering Gwaii Haanas each day is limited.
Available space is distributed between guided and independent
travelers. July to mid-August is the busiest travel period, so if
you plan to visit during this time, verify the availability of your
Gwaii Haanas dates before finalizing your travel plans.
Are you travelling independently or on a guided trip? If you
would like to take a guided trip, book your trip directly with a
licensed tour operator. See pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/gwaiihaanas/
visit/guides/voyagistes-operators for a list of licensed tour op-
erators. If you are travelling independently (in your own boat,
personal or rented kayak) you will need to make a reservation
and attend an orientation.
HAIDA WATCHMEN PROGRAM
For millenia Haida posted watchmen at strategic positions
around villages to raise alarms in advance of approaching en-
emies. The current Gina Ga Ga Kyahts'as Haida Gwaii Watch-
men Program began in 1981 as a volunteer initiative designed
to protect Haida villages and other important cultural sites in
Gwaii Haanas. Today, Watchmen welcome visitors and act as
guardians protecting the villages from spring until autumn at:
K’uuna Llnagaay Skedans
T’aanuu Llnagaay Tanu
Hlk’yah GawGa Windy Bay
Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay Hotspring Island
SGang Gwaay Ninstints/Anthony Island
Listen as Haida Watchmen share oral histories and stories
which have been passed down through generations.
Haida poles at SGang Gwaay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
and K’uuna Llnagaay Skedans stretch into the sky telling ancient
stories. Haida poles are maps of Haida lives and lineages and
form a connection with the supernatural, displaying crests as-
sociated with certain families and people.
GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE, NATIONAL MARINE CONSERVATION AREA RESERVE,
AND HAIDA HERITAGE SITE
Photo
: Jags B
row
n
80 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 81
FEATURED TRAILSFor specific trail information see BCParks.ca or
gohaidagwaii.ca:
Taaw Tow Hill
Kwahtsiisda Blow Hole
K'iid K'iiyaas Golden Spruce
Anvil
Pesuta
Yaagun Yakoun Lake
Bonanza Beach
Gregory Beach
Dover Trail
Secret Cove
Sk'aw Gandalaa Cape Fife
Tlldas East Beach
CAMPSITE LOCATIONSAgate Beach and Misty Meadows
Campgrounds are subject to a nightly fee from
June 1 to September 30:
Hl'yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach
Misty Meadows
Diinal GawGa Gray Bay
PICNIC & PADDLING AREASMake sure you understand the risks of water
sport activities:
Diinal GawGa Gray Bay
Yaagun Yakoun Lake
Kwiid Suu Mayer Lake
Gantl' Gadaas Pure Lake
THE TRAIL MARKERThere are two main shapes that make up Haida art, the ‘ovoid’ and ‘U’ shapes. Within many classical designs, you will find the salmon/
trout head like this one used on the trail markers. The design is used to fill spaces in eyeballs, wings, body parts, etc. There are thousands of different ways this common design element ca be used.
Trail marker design: Ben Davidson
K'iid K'iiyaasGolden Spruce Trail
Anvil Trail
Pesuta Trail
Yakoun Lake Trail
Gregory, Riley & Bonanza
Beach Trails
Secret Cove Trail
Dover Trail
SGidlii GandleeWhite Creek Trail
TlldasEast Beach Trail
Sk'aw Gandala Cape Fife Trail
Diinal GawGa Gray Bay campground
Misty Meadows Campground
Hl'yaalan GalguusdAgate Beach Campground
Kwiid SuuMayer Lake
Gantl' Gadaas Pure Lake
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
RCMP:Queen Charlotte • 250-559-4421
Masset • 250-626-3991
Ground Search & Rescue — contact closest
RCMP
BC AMBULANCE • 1-800-461-9911
OBSERVE, RECORD, REPORT • 1-800-465-4336
(fish & wildlife violations, littering or pollution)
RAPP - Report All Poachers & Polluters 24hr
hotline • 1-877-952-7277
(Conservation Officer) cell #7277
MARINE EMERGENCY:
Prince Rupert Coast Guard • 250-627-3081
VHF 16 • cell phone #727
Rescue Centre • 1-800-567-5111
1-250-413-8933 \ cell #727
FOREST FIRES:Coastal Fire Centre • 1-800-663-5555
Bonanza Beach
Gámdas
Tll.aal
Yaagun
TaawTow Hill
Kwatitsiisda Blow Hole Trail
CO-MANAGEMENT
The Haida Nation and BC Parks co-manage 18 terrestrial and marine protected areas across the Haida
Gwaii archipelago. This amounts to one-third of the islands – just over 224,000 hectares (553,516
acres). Combined with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area
Reserve and Haida Heritage Site, 52% of Haida Gwaii is protected and managed collaboratively with
the Haida Nation.
• YAHGUDAANG is the Haida concept for respect for the land, sea and all living things — please
practice this during your visit to Haida Gwaii protected areas. Use the principles of Leave No
Trace camping.
• Please do not remove any cultural artifacts that you may encounter along the route and
report any findings to the Council of the Haida Nation and BC Parks.
• Respect sensitive plants growing in coastal sand ecosystems and do not trample or pick
them.
• Avoid travel in the forest during high winds.
• On exposed beaches always be aware of the tide and never turn your back to the sea. Make
sure you have a current tide table and know how to interpret it.
• Be Taan Bear Aware – they can be encountered throughout Haida Gwaii. Always store your
food and trash properly and away from your campsite, keep dogs under control, and pay
attention to your surroundings, especially near salmon rivers.
• Use fire rings if provided and never leave your fire unattended. Ensure it is completely
extinguished before you leave.
• Use care and attention driving on active logging roads.
• Tsunamis: rare but dangerous. If you feel the ground shake strongly for more than 30 seconds
or notice the tide dropping rapidly and drastically, immediately move to higher ground.
PROTECTED AREAS OF HAIDA GWAII
52%of
Haida Gwaii
Protected
COUNCIL OF THE HAIDA NATION
HAIDA HERITAGE SITES
haidanation.ca
250-626-6058
BC PARKS
BCParks.ca
Naikoon Park headquarters
in Tlell
250-557-4390
GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK
RESERVE, NATIONAL MARINE
CONSERVATION AREA RESERVE,
AND HAIDA HERITAGE SITE
parkscanada.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas
877-559-8818
OLD MASSETT VILLAGE COUNCIL
PARKS DEPARTMENT
oldmassettvillagecouncil.com
250-626-3337
Pesuta trail
Diinal GawGa Gray Bay
Naikoon Provincial Park
8382 Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/Business Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/BusinessMeet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com
Sitka Studio250-557-4241 ~ 845 Richardson Rd, Tlell, BC
sitkacottage.com • [email protected]
Tuesday - Saturday 10 to 5pm, Sunday 12 to 4pm • Closed Mondays
Accommodation • Art • All things Haida Gwaii
L vehaidagwaii
.com
CROW’S NESTCAFÉ & COUNTRY
STORE
Dynamic. Fresh. Conscientious.
The Crow’s Nest Café & Country Store is the place to stop in Tlell for
everything you need from local produce, groceries and liquor to ice
cream cones and milkshakes, a cup of specialty coffee or snacks.
250-557-4593 • 35770 Hwy 16 • Tlell
• Tlell’s one-stop shop
• Daily lunch specials and weekend brunch
available
• Grocery, liquor and tobacco sales
• A variety of local products available
L vehaidagwaii
.com
CACILIA’SBED & BREAKFAST
Find inspiration, relaxation, adventure or all three at Cacilia’s Bed and
Breakfast, located on a rolling sand dune overlooking Hecate Strait. Wake up
to the islands’ most brilliant sunrises and enjoy the peaceful sounds of rolling
ocean waves as you drift off to sleep at night.
Open year-round. haidagwaii.net/ceebysea/
• Relaxing and inspiring ocean side
accommodations
• Able to accommodate groups of up to 15
people
•Wir sprechen Deutsch!
250-557-4664 • [email protected] • Tlell
L vehaidagwaii
.com
HAIDA GWAII
TRADER
Homegrown. United. Better for all. What’s your Haida Gwaii story? Send us
your stories, photos, poems, cartoons, etc. We look forward to hearing from
you. Call 250-557-2088 or email [email protected]
Pick up the latest copy of the HG Trader magazine at participating retailers or
check out our Ezine on the HG Trader website at haidagwaiitrader.com
• Community website and bi-monthly
magazine
• Local articles, classifieds, events and
business information
• Real estate listings and much more
250-557-2088 • P.O. Box 222 • Port Clements
HAIDA GWAII
Homegrown. United. Better for All.
L vehaidagwaii
.com
BAYVIEW
MARKET
Bayview Market is Haida Gwaii’s one-stop shopping destination. Located
in Port Clements, they have everything locals and visitors need, from
groceries to home decor to souvenirs and gift items. Visitors can even grab
a quick sandwich from the deli.
• Small-town general store feel with a large
inventory of products
• One-stop shopping in Haida Gwaii
• Known islands wide for stellar customer
service
250-557-4331 • 92 Bayview Dr • Port Clements
L vehaidagwaii
.com
SITKA
COTTAGE
When you make your way to this cozy cottage located along the Tlell River, you
will definitely know you have left the mainland haze behind you. The interior of
the cottage is kept immaculately clean and provides you with all the amenities
you need during your stay. The cottage is large enough for a family, but cozy
enough for the individual or couple getaway. sitkacottage.com
• Private self-contained hideaway in Tlell
• Quiet, peaceful setting along Tlell river
•Well-equipped kitchen and amenities
• Beautiful garden setting
250-557-4241 or 4386 • Tlell • [email protected]
L vehaidagwaii
.com
ATLAS
OCEAN TOURS
We are excited to share the magic of our home with you! We specialize in
smaller tours (up to six guests per trip) and carry kayaks for each guest to
explore the many inlets and islets that make up Gwaii Haanas. Come join
us in this extraordinary corner of the world for an adventure second to none!
atlasoceantours.com
• Explore the nooks and crannies of Gwaii
Haanas on a kayak mothership
• Travel aboard MV Atlas in comfort and style
• Learn and have fun with knowledgeable and
experienced local residents
250-557-8514 • Tlell • [email protected]
Port ClementsExplore Haida Gwaii from
Amenities include: Gas station, lodging, groceries, pub, restaurants,
museum, tourist info, gift store, heritage sites, historic Rainbow Wharf,
golden spruce sapling, small craft harbour, boat launch, medical clinic,
post office, sani-station, community trail, and so much more.
On the shore of the beautiful
Yakoun River Estuary. We have
six RV spots and four tent
spots. To reserve, please visit
our website at
www.portclements.ca/
sunset-park-campground/
SUNSET RV PARK
& CAMPGROUND
Centrally located by Masset Inlet • “the small town with big charm”
portclements.caFor more information, news, photos, and more please visit our website:
Ports ClementsMUSEUM
June 1 to September 15Open every day 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Including ALL Holidays.
After September 15 & before June 1: Open Sat & Sun 2 p.m. to 4 p.m.
www.portclementsmuseum.ca
8584 Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/Business Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/BusinessMeet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com
L vehaidagwaii
.com
ANGELA’S PLACE
SOCIAL CAFE &
FUEL STATION
Come on in to Angela’s Place - Social Cafe & Fuel Station just off Highway 16 in
Port Clements. We will fill your tank with gas, your belly with great homemade
food and your day with friendly smiles.
• Diesel
•Marked gas
• Regular gas
•World famous homemade carrot cake
250-557-2003 • 211 Grouse St • Port Clements
L vehaidagwaii
.com
SMILLIE’S
GUESTHOUSES
Cozy. Warm. Relaxing.
Smillie’s Guesthouses – private waterfront accommodations on spectacular
Masset Inlet in Port Clements. All rooms have queen-sized beds (one with a
king-sized bed), offer free wi-fi and TV, kitchenettes, barbecues and parking.
cell: 250-626-9670 | gosmillie.com
250-557-4614 • 97 Bayview Dr • Port Clements
• Centrally located on Graham Island
• Self-contained rooms with private entrances
• Close to the store and pub
L vehaidagwaii
.com
FORK IN
PORT
Hot food. Delicious. Family friendly. A food concession trailer that provides hot
foods, desserts and beverages at a reasonable price. Look for the open sign on
the highway between Port Clements and Tlell. Closed Tuesdays.
Summer hours: April 15 to September 15, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Winter hours: September 16 to April 14, 12 p.m. to 8 p.m.
• Great food served quickly
• Take it with you or sit at an outdoor table
and relax
• Gluten-free options available
250-557-4669 • 60543 Hwy 16 • Port Clements
L vehaidagwaii
.com
BUDGIES BACKPACKERS
& SIGHTSEERS
Hostel style accommodations available in one of Port Clements’ oldest
buildings. Guests can enjoy free Internet, satellite TV, games and on-site
laundry facilities budgiesbackpackers.com
Kayak tours are also available kayakhaidagwaii.com
250-557-4602 • 91 Bayview Dr • Port Clements
• Budget accommodations
• Personal Haida Gwaii tours
•Wild food harvesting
• Cultural adventures
L vehaidagwaii
.com
DELKATLA
BOATHOUSE
At the Delkatla Boathouse you have 0.3 acres of waterfront privacy within
walking distance to central Masset. The guesthouse overlooks the Masset
harbour and the Haida Gwaii eagles feast in trees, only 15 feet from your
front deck. Pet-friendly.
Email: [email protected]
• Two bedrooms / sleeps four
•Waterfront accommodation
• Full kitchen
• High speed Internet
• Laundry
250-559-8909 • 1426 Delkatla Rd • Masset
L vehaidagwaii
.com
ELEPHANT CAGE
COFFEE ROASTERS
Elephant Cage Coffee Roasters provides islanders with ethically-sourced
beans roasted locally. Featuring medium and dark roast blends and
single origin roasts for all occasions.
• Premium coffee roaster with sustainably
sourced beans
• Locally roasted, featuring medium blends,
dark blends and single-origin roasts
• Custom orders and swag available
250-626-8971 • P.O. Box 271 • Masset
L vehaidagwaii
.com
EBONY BELLIS, RMT
Therapeutic. Calming. Grounding.
Ebony will take a specialized approach to have you leaving your massage
treatment feeling renewed.
A welcoming space and designed for your comfort.
• Registered Massage Therapy treatments
• Convenient scheduling
• Nurturing environment
604-369-2537 • Masset
L vehaidagwaii
.com
MASSET
BIKES
Masset Bikes provides professional maintenance, sales and repair services
for bikes of all shapes and sizes at competitive rates.
Just visiting Haida Gwaii? We have a great selection of rentals to choose
from too. We also offer surfboard repair.
Find us on Facebook @MassetBikes
• A bicycle is a great way to explore Masset
and Haida Gwaii
• Offering Kona, Raleigh and Moose bicycles
• Bike shuttle service available
250-626-8939 • Beside Masset Airport • Masset
From lending to investing and insurance, Northern Savings has Haida Gwaii covered
Since the 1940s, Northern Savings has been the local financial co-operative of choice on Haida Gwaii. We have the ability to do things differently, to act as a partner rather than just a service provider. Strengthening our members and local businesses helps to foster vibrant communities and this is the co-operative difference!
Even at the edge of the world, you’ve got good neighbours
Masset1663 Main Street250.626.5231
24/7 ATMs
Cash exchange
Investment advice
Lending specialists
Insurance services
Queen Charlotte 110 Causeway Street250.559.4407 #neighbourshelpingneighbours
Phot
o ©
Go
Haida
Gwa
ii/Cur
tis G
uest The GroundGALLERY & COFFEE HOUSE
lovehaidagwaii.com/The-Ground Downtown Masset
NorthbeachApparelC
LOTH
ING
AC
CE
SS
OR
IESLOCALLY DESIGNED
NorthbeachApparel
ESPRESSO | TEAS | BAKED GOODS | ART
Downtown Masset • 1599 Main Street
EXCLUSIVELY AT THE GROUND
Welcome to
The Village of
Massetwings, waves,
wilderness
MASSETBC.COM
p: 250-626-3995 f: 250-626-3968
email: [email protected]
Friendly people, art galleries, museums, restaurants, cafés, grocery stores, home supplies,
accommodations, visitor information centre, and so much more!
COME VISIT
Village of Masset Office
Open: Mon to Fri, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
1686 Main St, P.O. Box 68,
Masset, BC VOT 1M0
8786 Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/Business Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/BusinessMeet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com
L vehaidagwaii
.com
HIDDEN
ISLAND RV &
CAMPGROUND
Relaxing. Safe. Clean.
Located in Masset you can find Hidden Island RV & Campground, equipped
with serviced sites, clean washrooms with showers, free high speed Wi-Fi,
coin-operated laundry, handmade gifts, nautical gifts, fishing tackle and
marine supplies.
250-626-5286 • 1790 Tow Hill Rd • Masset
• 16 large treed RV lots, some big enough
for groups
• Family owned and ideally situated for
exploring Haida Gwaii
• Sites are walking distance to the beach
L vehaidagwaii
.com
NORTH
BEACH
CABINS
Come to the edge of the world and relax while you revel in the sights and
sounds of Haida Gwaii’s Naikoon Provincial Park. North Beach Cabins
provides guests with an authentic eco-tourism experience in the heart of
Haida Gwaii’s pristine native environment.
northbeachcabins.com
250-626-7126 • 15965 Tow Hill Rd • North Beach
• Located in Naikoon Provincial Park
• Eco-tourism in off-the-grid beach cabins
• email: [email protected]
L vehaidagwaii
.com
LADYBIRD’S BOUTIQUE
Vintage. Retro. Eclectic.
Step into Ladybird’s Boutique in downtown Masset and be prepared to find
something one of a kind. If you are looking for a locally handmade item or the
perfect outfit that will make you stand out from the crowd, come on by. From
that special one of a kind keepsake to costume rentals, we’ve got you covered.
• Vintage, retro consignment clothing,
accessories and housewares
• Diverse styles & sizes xs-3xl for all genders
• Locally made jewelry, clothing, accessories,
and natural products
• Haida Owned and Operated
778-867-3464 • 2072 Collison Ave • Masset
L vehaidagwaii
.com
MEGHAN A. WALLACEBARRISTER
& SOLICITOR
Meghan A. Wallace Barrister & Solicitor is a general practice law firm serving
the entire Haida Gwaii chain. Meghan A. Wallace Barrister & Solicitor offers
land conveyancing and family-law services as well as will preparation, estate
services and notary public services. meghanwallacelaw.com
• Real estate, family law
•Wills and estates
• Business law
• Notary public services
250-626-7026 • 1599 Main Street • Masset
L vehaidagwaii
.com
MILE ZERODINING ROOM &
DADDY COOL’S
PUBLIC HOUSE
Fantastic pub food with an island-wide reputation and Haida Gwaii’s best chef.
Authentic Haida Gwaii fish and chips. Cold beer, wine and liquor sales.
Pub hours: Monday to Sunday 9 a.m. to 2a.m.
Restaurant hours: Monday to Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 4:30 p.m. to 8 p.m.
Need a Taxi? Call the pub or 250-626-8999.
• Food & beverage
• Taxi service
250-626-3210 • 1993 Collison Ave • Masset
L vehaidagwaii
.com
ISLANDWISE
Handcrafted soap and body products to experience Haida Gwaii through
the senses.
Find us in person at the Edge of the World Music Festival and weekly at
the Masset Market. Also available at island retailers throughout Haida
Gwaii, and via our online shop islandwisehaidagwaii.com
islandwisehaidagwaii.com • Masset
• Inspired by nature
• Simple, safe, effective
• Local and nourishing ingredients
L vehaidagwaii
.com
COPPER
BEECH
HOUSE
Come and stay in a heritage house on Masset’s Delkatla Inlet, owned
and managed by the writer, Susan Musgrave. Copper Beech House is
open all year round for guests to experience a rustic-elegant, curated
slice of Haida Gwaii. For more information see copperbeechhouse.com
• 1920s character home steeped in history
• Locally foraged food & homemade meals
• Guests can have as much company or
privacy as they like
1-855-626-5441 • 1590 Delkatla St • Masset
L vehaidagwaii
.com
MASSET
MARKET
Bringing food growers and artisans together to share locally produced goods.
Every Friday 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. year-round.
Located next to the Village of Masset office on Main street.
Find us at facebook.com/Massetfarmersmarket
[email protected] • Main Street • Masset
• Home-baked treats
• Handmade jewellery
• Locally-grown produce
• Handcrafted skin care
NORTH BEACH SURF SHOP
Surf, SUP,
boogie, skate
& skim boards
Wetsuits - from
kids size 1
to XXXL
Clothing, artwork,
bike rentals,
& local knowledge
Dip nets, clam
shovels, chest
waders, fishing
licenses
Mondays toSaturdays
12-5pm1630 Orr St, Masset
northbeachsurfshop.com250.626.7873 (surf)
SALES & RENTALS
L vehaidagwaii
.com
HAIDA GWAII
BEACHCABINS
Unique, off-grid, hand-crafted oceanfront beach cabins provide
comfortable, secluded, unplugged lodgings with a low environmental
footprint, affording you a chance to connect with the unique spirit of
Haida Gwaii. Let me welcome you to a memorable stay in our magical
little corner of Haida Gwaii. beachcabins.com
250-626-9784 • 16039 Tow Hill Rd • [email protected]
• Private, off-grid, ocean-front beach cabins
•Miles of surf and sand beaches
• Breathtaking sunset views
L vehaidagwaii
.com
DAVE’S
CUSTOM
CARVINGS
Gid Kweeyas Dave Hunter tells stories and legends of his Haida ancestry through
his original paintings, silver and argillite carvings. Dave is largely self-taught,
learning the art of carving first with wood and then moving on to other mediums.
Dave is also responsible for the creation of numerous original paintings which
have been made into art cards, post cards and limited edition prints.
• Intricate carved silver jewelry - bracelets,
rings and more
• Original paintings and art prints
• Available for custom and commission work
778-887-3732 • Masset • [email protected]
L vehaidagwaii
.com
THE NATURE
CENTRE AT
DELKATLA
Wild. Informative. Knowledgeable.
The Delkatla Sanctuary Society, a registered charity, owns and operates
the Nature Centre. The Society is dedicated to protecting the Delkatla
Wildlife Sanctuary, a migratory bird sanctuary where over 140 bird
species have been recorded.
250-626-5015 • 1860 Trumpeter Dr • Masset
• The only nature centre in the Skeena region
• Comparable to centres in Europe
• A winning destination for residents and
visitors
Automotive Repair • Tire Repair • Wheel BalancingBrakes • Steering • Computer Diagnostics
Mon-Fri, 9a.m. - 5p.m. | Weekend appointments available250-626-7875 | 2063 Collison Ave, Masset
Arts & Crafts from the mystical islands of Haida Gwaii
9422 Tow Hill Road (Hydro pole 71)9 kms east of Masset towards Tow Hill
Hours: Saturday & Sunday -11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Summer (June-August) - Daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.or by appointment - call or email to arrange
Chown River Gallery
8988 Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/Business Accommodations Tourism/Adventure Store/RestaurantArtisan/BusinessMeet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com Meet the owners/operators at lovehaidagwaii.com
L vehaidagwaii
.com
SANDY’S
SEAFOOD
DINING
Get your delicious Haida Gwaii fish & chips!
Find us at 75 Raven Avenue (3rd house on the waterside of Raven Ave).
Summer hours (May 15 to September 15): Monday-Saturday 12pm-7pm,
Sundays closed.
Land tours available, inquiry at the stand or email: [email protected]
• Excellent choice of fish & chips
• Complete Haida Experience
• Collection of local Haida art
250-626-7219 • 75 Raven Avenue • Old Massett
387 Eagle Ave, Old Massett • 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily
250-626-5560 • Toll Free: 1-888-626-5560
sarahshaidaarts.com
Diverse. Unique. Authentic.
Sarah’s Haida Arts & Jewellry
Haida Drums
Haida Weaving
Giftware, Cards, Books, Prints and much more!
Haida Argillite
Haida Jewelry
L vehaidagwaii
.com
TOW HILL
MARINE
TOURS
Our cultural tours of the ancient Haida village sites in Northern Haida
Gwaii are journeys into Haida history. Led by a Haida watchman,
our full or half-day trips leave from Masset and are a must for
those seeking to learn more about the north end of Haida Gwaii.
towhillfishingcharter.com
• Cultural and Fishing Charters out of
Masset, Haida Gwaii
• Locally owned and operated
250-626-6099 • [email protected] • Masset
L vehaidagwaii
.com
GIN KUYAAS
HAIDA ART
STUDIO & GIFTS
Authentic. Traditional. Inspiring.
Gin Kuyaas Haida Art Studio & Gifts offers a diverse selection of authentic
Haida artwork, clothing and gift items.
We are open from Tuesday through to Saturday, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m.,
seasonally or by appointment.
250-626-5530 • 55 Raven Ave • Old Massett
• High quality authentic Haida art and
souvenirs
• Great range of product prices
• Haida artists on site
L vehaidagwaii
.com
HIELLEN
LONGHOUSE
VILLAGE
Located on Haida Nation land and nestled within beautiful Naikoon Park,
Hiellen Longhouse Village offers seven traditional-style cedar Haida
longhouse cabins. There is a large Haida longhouse with 10 rooms, each
with a bunkbed, for groups up to 20. Cozy, rustic and a simply unforgettable
North Beach experience.
• An unforgettable traditional Haida
longhouse experience
• Pet-friendly accommodation
haidalonghouses.ca • Hiellen River • North Beach
L vehaidagwaii
.com
THE HIGHWATER
HOUSE
Highwater House was built using local materials and superb post and
beam craftsmanship to produce a spectacular and unique building.
Nestled in the canopy of spruce trees, its incredible ocean views,
elegant design and pristine location will make you think you’ve gone to
traveller’s heaven. More information at highwaterhouse.ca
• Unique, high-end accommodations
featuring custom architecture
• Fully furnished house with spa-like bath
facilities
• Spectacular secluded ocean front location
250-637-1111 • 1 Limberlost Pl • North Beach
PROVINCIAL CAMPGROUNDS
For more information about Naikoon Provincial Park visit: env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/naikoon
Facilities at Naikoon Provincial Park managed by:
OLD MASSETT VILLAGE COUNCIL PARKS DEPARTMENT
For questions. please contact Park Coordinator:
PO Box 189, Old Massett, Haida Gwaii, V0T 1M0
MISTY MEADOWS CAMPGROUND
• 1km south of Tlell River bridge
• 30 vehicle camping sites, private tenting area, picnic shelter, pit toilets, water
AGATE BEACH CAMPGROUND
• 24km east of Masset
• 38 vehicle camping sites, picnic shelter, pit toilets, water
$18per night
Fee charged between June 1st and September 30th
BC seniors rate June 1st - June 15th • Based on
vehicle or party of four • Reservations not taken
Firewood available for a fee
L vehaidagwaii
.com
BEACHCABINHEAVEN.COM
Experience the adventure of vacationing in a Haida Gwaii beach cabin. We are
perfectly situated for a taste of the best the islands have to offer – seafood at
your doorstep, and a pristine evergreen ecosystem all around – affording us a
chance to connect with the unique spirit of Haida Gwaii.
Email: [email protected] | beachcabinheaven.com
• Located in Naikoon Park and bordering the
ocean
• Surf, harvest crabs and dig clams on your
doorstep
• Local information from a 46-year resident
250-626-5472 • 15901 Tow Hill Rd • North Beach
L vehaidagwaii
.com
SANDY’S
SEAFOOD
DINING
Get your delicious Haida Gwaii fish & chips!
Find us at 75 Raven Avenue (3rd house on the waterside of Raven Ave).
Summer hours (May 15 to September 15): Monday-Saturday 12pm-7pm,
Sundays closed.
Land tours available, inquiry at the stand or email: [email protected]
• Excellent choice of fish & chips
• Complete Haida Experience
• Collection of local Haida art
250-626-7219 • 75 Raven Avenue • Old Massett
L vehaidagwaii
.com
DIXON
ENTRANCE
MARITIME
MUSEUM
Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum is open from May long weekend until Labour day weekend, 1 to 5p.m. every day. Admission is $5 for adults, kids 16 and under are free. Learn about life in early Masset and the history of crab and fishing families. Wheelchair-accessible.
[email protected] • 2182 Collison Ave • Masset
• Heritage building in Masset
• Learn about maritime history and
settlement of northern Haida Gwaii
L vehaidagwaii
.com
UPROOT GUEST HOUSE
Uproot Guest House is an artisan-designed West Coast home on the edge of
the rainforest that is available for nightly and weekly rentals. The home has
gorgeous re-purposed timber and up-cycled industrial components throughout;
creative metal stair railings, natural tree roots and hand sculpted columns.
Email: [email protected]
• Beautifully crafted accommodation
featuring salvaged design
•Warm, inspiring home with lots of natural
light
• Luxurious, clean and comfortable
250-551-4611 • 156 Williams St • Masset
90 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 91
Chaahluu Kaahlii Rennell Sound
Chaana GangGaaw Gandlaay Muncord Creek
Daajing Giids Queen Charlotte
Daajing Giids GawGa Bearskin Bay
Daa.ulgaay Skidegate Narrows
Dal Kaahlii Delkatla Slough
Damaxyaa
Diinal GawGa Gray Bay
Duu Guusd the west coast of Haida Gwaii
HlGaa K'aayhllnga Balance Rock
HlGaagilda Skidegate
HlGuu K'aw.was TlldaGaaw Mosquito mountain
Hlk'yah GawGa Windy Bay
Hl’yaalan Galguusd Agate Beach
Gaahllns kun Cape Ball
Hl’yaalang waagusd the McIntyre Bay area
Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay Hotspring Island
Gandll SkahlGaal St. Mary’s Spring
Gantl' Gaadaas Pure Lake
Gamadiis Port Clements
Gámadis Gandlee Port Clements
Gaw Kaahlii Masset Inlet
Gaw Tlagee the land around of Masset Inlet
Gawu Kuns Moresby Camp
Gawu Kuns Siiwaay Mosquito Lake
The dedicated and vibrant Haida
language community is thoroughly
integrated into the islands fabric.
The community provides translation
services, spell-checking, the correct
use of words, and context references
to many publications and individuals on
Haida Gwaii. The community includes
fluent speakers mentoring younger
students in all communities, elders who
gather in centres like Xaad Kil Nee and
HlGaagilda Xaayda Kil Naay Skidegate
Haida Immersion Program (SHIP) to
record and teach, university students
earning teaching degrees, those who
participate in discussion and write
in the language online, and people
teaching themselves at home.
A NOTE ON HAIDA LANGUAGE USE
In this publication, the geographic
location of the story determines which
dialect is used. For the stories located
north of Gamadiis Port Clements we
use Gaw Xaad kil and for those south
of Gamadiis we use HlGaagilda Xaayda
Kil.
Elders say there were as many dialects of Haida as there were clans – at one time numbering well into the hun-dreds. Today three primary dialects are recognized: K’íis Xaad kíl southeastern Alaskan dialect, Gaw Xaad kil
Haida northern dialect and HlGaagilda Xaayda Kil Haida southern dialect.
Gina Guu Aahljuu Naay Performance House
GuuhlGa Llnagaay Skidegate Landing
GuuhlGa Siiwaay K'yuu Spirit Lake Trail
Gyaa K'id Naay Carving House
Juus Kaahlii Juskatla
K'aayxada TlldaGawaay Mount Moresby
Kaahlgwa Gandlaay K'yuu Crabapple Creek trail
KandaliiGwii Hecate Strait
Kay Llnagaay Sealion Town
Kay Tay Daanaay Cape St. James
K'iid K'iiyaas K'yuu Golden Spruce Trail
K'iid Xyangs K'iidaay Burnaby Narrows
K'iis Gwaay Langara Point
K’il Llnagaay Sandspit
Kil Kun Spit Point
K’uuna Llnagaay Skedans
Kuu Jad TlldaGaw Sleeping Beauty mountain
K'waas T'amgid shallow spot on the spit near Sandspit
Kwahtsiisda the Blow Hole
Kwiid Suu Mayer Lake
Kxeen Prince Rupert
Kyahjuu GawGa Queen Charlotte harbour
'Laana GaayGaagings Copper River Village
MaaGan Gandlaay Cape Ball River
NansGa Gandlaay K'yuu Gore Brook trail
Nasduu Gandlee Hippa Island
Nee Kun Rose Spit
Saahlinda Naay Haida Gwaii Museum
Siigee Dixon Entrance
SGang Gwaay Anthony Island
SGidlii Gandlee K'yuuwee White Creek Trail
Sk’aw Gandalaa Cape Fife
T'aanuu Llnagaay Tanu
Taa Suu Tasu Inlet
T'agaa Vancouver
Taaw Tow Hill
Tlaga Gawtlaas New Town
Tll.aal Tlell
Tll.aal Gandlaay Tlell River
Tllgaduu GawGa Kagan Bay
Ts’aa.ahl Gwaay.yaay Chaatl Island
Ts’uu Ts'idga Lawn Hill
Xaana Kaahlii GawGaay Skidegate Inlet
Xaaydas Giinaa.ah Naay Haida Heritage House
Xiina Gwaay.yaay Ramsay Island
Xuuya Gandlee Oeanda River
Yaagun Kún Yakan Point
Yaagun Gandlee Yakoun River
Yaagun Kaahlii Stl'ang Yakoun River estuary
Yaagun Suu Yakoun Lake
SOME OF THE PLACE NAMES MENTIONED IN THIS ISSUE
A NOTE ON HAIDA LANGUAGEV
OW
ELS
XAAYDA KIL AND XAAD KIL CONSONANTS
Lips p, b, m, w
Back of teeth
t, t’, d, n, ts, ts’, j, s, tl, tl’, dl, hl, l, l’
Hard palate y, ch
Soft palate k, k’, g, ng, x, w
Uvula k, k’, G (in Xaayda Kil), x
Glottis G (in Xaad Kil)
LAND & SEAGAW
XAAD KILHLGAAGILDA XAAYDA KIL
Fish eggs Tsaay Chaay
Northern abalone Galgahlyaan GalGahlyan
Cassin’s Auklet Hajaa Haaja
Pacific herring 'Iinaang Iinang
Harlequin duck Sasaa K’iigee K’ayda k’uuxawuu
Pelagic cormorant K’yaaluu K’yaaluu
Pine marten K’uu K’uuxuu
Salmon berries Sk’awGaan Sk’awGandala
Haida Gwaii goshawk Sdads k’un Stads k’un
Red cedar Ts’uu Ts’uu
Cedar bark Giid Ts’uu k’al
Grizzly bear Xuuts’ Xuuajii
BEINGSThe Haida canon of oral histories
K’iygang K’aygang.nga
Matrilineal descendants of the raven moiety
Yaalaa Kayxal
Respected one Kilslaay Kilsdlaay
Matrilineal descendants of the eagle moiety
Guuda Kuustak
Haida ancestors Kuniisii Kuuniisii
One Whose Voice is Obeyed or Supernatural Raven
Nang Kilslaas Nang Kilsdlaas
Supernatural Being SGaanuwee SGaana
ITEMS & EVENTSMonumental pole Gyaa’aang GyaaGang
Expert carver K’id ‘leegaa ‘aayaagaa Gya k’id llGaayGa
Raven’s Tail weaving Yaahl Kuu Naaxiin
Grandmother Naanii Nanaay
Copper shield T’aaw T’aaGuu
Making things right(Balance)
Tll yahdaa Tll yahda
Grandfather Chinaay Chiinang
Respect Yahgudang Yahguudang
Potlatch 'Waahl’ahl 'WaahlGahl
Thank you Haw’aa Haawa
HAIDA WORD GUIDE
92 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 93
ACCOMMODATIONSHL’YAALANG WAAGUSD
NORTH BEACHbeachcabinheaven.com .......................89
Haida Gwaii Beach Cabins .................87
Hiellen Longhouse Village .................88
Highwater House ..................................89
North Beach Cabins ............................87
MASSETApril's White Raven House .................89
Copper Beach House ...........................86
Delkatla Boathouse ..............................85
Uproot Guesthouse ..............................88
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTSBudgies Backpacker & Sightseer Hostel ......................................................84
Smilies Guesthouses ...........................84
Sunset Park RV & Camping ...............82
TLL.AAL TLELL AREACacilia's B&B .........................................83
Haida House ..........................................10
Riverside B&B .......................................22
Richardson Ranch Guesthouses ........23
Sitka Cottage ........................................82
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREAJag's Beanstalk .....................................22
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Abalone Eyes House ............................14
Absence of Time House .....................15
Cassie's Cottage ...................................20
Chateau Norm .......................................17
Duffy's Guesthouses ............................21
Gracie's Place Hotel .............................20
Greenroot Guesthouse ........................15
Hecate Inn ..............................................21
Echo Bay Lodge ...................................18
Misty Harbour Inn ................................18
Premier Creek Lodging .......................16
Sea Raven Motel ...................................20
Skyfall Cottage ....................................17
Skidegate Inlet Retreat ......................21
Spruce Point Lodge .............................19
Sword Fern Inn .....................................17
The Last Resort .....................................16
K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPITSandspit Adventures ............................14
Sandspit Inn ...........................................9
ADVERTISEMENT INDEXHaawa to all of the hardworking Haida Gwaii businesses that support
Tadswii' • Kaats'ii hla This is Haida Gwaii
TLL.AAL TLELL AREA
Crystal Cabin & Gallery .....................24
Sitka Studio ............................................72
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE
All About U Arts ...................................22
Longhouse Gift Shop ..........................22
KAY LLNAGAAY
Haida Gwaii Museum Trading House ..11
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Charlisle .................................................15
Funk It .....................................................21
Junebug Cafe & Gifts ..........................16
HARDWARE STORESMASSET
Haida Gwaii Co-op Hardware ............95
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
ACE the Helpful Place .........................19
GROCERIES, MARKETS & MOREMASSET
Haida Gwaii Co-op ...............................94
Masset Market ......................................86
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
Bayview Market ...................................83
TLL.AAL TLELL AREA
Crow's Nest Cafe & Country Store ..82
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA
Haida Gwaii Co-op ...............................94
K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
SuperValu Sandspit .............................13
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Isabel Creek Store ................................16
HEALTH & WELLNESSMASSET
Ebony Bellis RMT .................................85
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA
Kim Goetzinger Massage Therapy Clinic ......................................................21
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Sun Studio .............................................16
LEGAL SERVICESMASSET
Meghan A. Wallace Barrister & Solicitor .............................................87
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Haida Gwaii Law Office ......................18
LIQUOR STORESDAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Howlers Private Liquor Store .............17
STADS K'UN GAWGA PEEL INLET
Ocean House .........................................10
KXEEN PRINCE RUPERT
Crest Hotel ............................................8
ARTISANSDave's Custom Carvings .....................86
Elephant Cage Coffee ........................85
Islandwise Essentials ......................15, 86
ADVENTURE TOURS & FISHING CHARTERS
GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT
Sandy's Seafood Dining ......................89
MASSET
Haida Gwaii Fishing Charters ............17
Tow HIll Marine Tours ..........................83
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
Budgies Backpacker & Sightseer Hostel ......................................................84
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Atlas Ocean Tours ................................83
Green Coast Kayaking ........................19
Gwaii Land Tour Company ..................19
Haida Style Expeditions ......................13
Sail Piraeus ...........................................18
K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
Sandspit Adventures ............................14
Moresby Explorers ..............................14
BUS CHARTERS, TAXI & SHUTTLE SERVCIES
GAW TLAGEE MASSETT AREA & MORE
Mile Zero Taxi ........................................87
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
& HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE
Eagle Transit (YZP shuttle) ................. 15
Gwaii Taxi & Tours ................................16
K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
Sandspit Bus ..........................................19
CAMPING & RVSHL’YAALANG WAAGUSD
NORTH BEACH
Agate Beach Campground ................88
MASSET
Hidden Island RV ..................................86
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
Sunset Park RV & Camping ................82
TLL.AAL TLELL AREAMisty Meadows Campground ...........88
CULTURAL & NATURE CENTRESMASSET
Nature Centre at Delkatla ..................86
KAY LLNAGAAYHaida Heritage Centre ........................11
EVENTSTLL.AAL TLELL AREA
Edge of the World Festival ...............12
KAY LLNAGAAYTotem to Totem Marathon ..................21
ATM & FINANCIAL SERVICESMASSET &
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Northern Savings Credit Union .........85
FERRY SERVICESBC Ferries ...............................................7
FOOD TRUCKSGAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT
Sandy's Seafood Dining ......................89
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
Fork in Port ............................................84
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
The Phantom Kitchen ...........................17
GAS / SERVICE STATIONMASSET
On The Mark Services .........................87
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
Angela's Place ........................................84
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA
Taaw Naay Gas Station ......................21
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Charlotte Tire ........................................19
GALLERIES, JEWELRY, CLOTHING & GIFTS
GAW TLAGEE OLD MASSETT
April's White Raven House .................89
Gin Kuyaas Haida Art Studio & Gifts ...................................................89
Sarah's Haida Arts and Jewelry .......88
MASSETChown River Gallery ............................87
Ladybird Boutique ...............................87
North Beach Apparel ...........................84
North Beach Surf Shop .......................86
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
Bayview Market ...................................83
TLL.AAL TLELL AREA
Crow's Nest Cafe & Country Store ..82
K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
SuperValu Sandspit ..............................13
LOCAL INSTITUTIONSGwaii Trust Society .............................48
Haida Gwaii Institute ..........................6
Haida Gwaii Trader ...............................83
Haida Heritage Centre ........................11
HaidaNation.ca ......................................83
MARINE TRANSPORTATIONHighlander Marine Services ..............20
MUSEUMSMASSET
Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum ...88
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
Port Clements Museum ......................82
KAY LLNAGAAY
Haida Gwaii Museum ..........................11
Port Clements Museum ......................82
NATIONAL PARKGwaii Haanas National Park ..............79
PHARMACYDAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Forbes IDA Pharmacy .........................18
PROFESSIONAL SERVICESA&A Trading (Haida Gwaii) Ltd ........13
McElhanney ...........................................15
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Haida Gwaii Designs & Signs .............20
PROVINCIAL PARKBC Parks ..........................................80-81
RESTAURANTS & CAFESMASSET
Mile Zero Dining Room & Daddy Cool's Public House ............................87
The Ground Gallery & Coffeehouse ....84
GAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
Angela's Place Social Cafe ..................84
TLL.AAL TLELL AREA
Crow's Nest Cafe & Country Store ..82
Haida House ..........................................10
HLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE AREA
Jag's Beanstalk .....................................22
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Junebug Cafe & Gifts ..........................16
J&T Family Restaurant ........................18
Oceanview Pub & Grill .......................20
Sapporo Japanese Restaurant ...........20
K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
Shingle Bay Bistro ...............................14
SEAFOOD PROCESSINGAlbion Farms & Fisheries ....................8
SPORT RENTALS & MOREMASSET
Masset Bikes ........................................85
North Beach Surf Shop ......................86
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Green Coast Kayaking ........................19
K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
Moresby Explorers ..............................14
VEHICLE RENTALSHLGAAGILDA SKIDEGATE
Longhouse Gift Shop ...........................22
Haida Gwaii Scooter Rentals ..............23
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Budget Rent-a-Car ...............................19
Charlotte Tire ........................................19
VETERINARY, FEED STORE & ANIMAL BOARDING
Haida Gwaii Animal Hospital/ Richardson Ranch ................................23
VILLAGESSandspit Community Society .............19
Village of Masset .................................84
Village of Port Clements .....................82
VISITOR CENTRESGAMADIIS PORT CLEMENTS
Port Clements Museum .......................82
DAAJING GIIDS QUEEN CHARLOTTE
Queen Charlotte Visitor Center .......17
K'IL LLNAGAAY SANDSPIT
Sandspit Visitor Centre .......................19
Advertising inquries: contact Alanah Mountifield
[email protected] or call 250-559-8050
94 TADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAIITADSWII’ • KAATS’II HLA THIS IS HAIDA GWAII 95
You’re at home here
MASSET
FOOD BRANCH
1562 Main Street • Masset
(250) 626-3933
HOME CENTRE
& HARDWARE
1538 Main Street • Masset
(250) 626-3933
GWAII
FOOD BRANCH
7498 Hwy 16 • Skidegate
(250) 559-8078
SUMMER HOURS, EVERY DAYGROCERIES: 9 A.M. - 8 P.M. | HOME CENTRE & HARDWARE: 9 A.M. - 6 P.M.
GroceriesMeat
ProduceDairy
BakeryDeliBaitIce
Home Centre
Camping Gear
Fishing Supplies
Hunting Supplies
Spirit Lake Trail
The main trail begins with an easy am-
ble through the forest and then hits
a short grade that takes you up to a
side hill which follows T’am Gandlaay
Mission Creek. Once across the next
bridge another short steep pitch takes
you up to another bridge, and then one
more moderate grade up into the lake
area. Once there you have a choice of
routes – short or long – and all are of
easy to moderate effort. One trail tra-
verses the outside of the lake and oth-
ers loop the interior. Times vary given
your route. For many people, about an
hour will take you around the outside
GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu
GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu the Spirit Lake trail complex is a network of looping trails in the hills just above HlGaagilda Skidegate. The trailhead is located across the highway from Naa Gaagudgiikyagangs George Brown Recreation
Centre and a Red cedar carving of a ‘WaasGuu a supernatural being by artist Billy Bellis marks the beginning of a series of walks that accommodates most fitness levels – from an easy stroll to a vigorous hike or run. Check the map at the trailhead to orientate yourself before heading up.
loop and back to the trailhead – not
counting stopping for a rest or picnic,
taking in the view or observing wildlife.
Low hills surround the lake on three
sides producing a micro-climate that
encourages the rich growth of plants
and the animals that take advantage
of the habitat. Views from the trail and
fern-covered hillsides highlight the
complex stages of a growing forest
and the myriad shades of green typical
of a rainforest. Trumpeter swans are
seen in the winter along with ts'aag
Bald eagles and Xuuya ravens, and in
the summer numerous song and water
birds frequent the lakes. Throughout
the area is evidence of Haida cultural
practices including bark-stripped trees
and culturally modified trees. In one
spot a portion of a felled tree still rests
near its base.
The lake features dramatic spike-
topped cedar trees and wetlands and is
often a quiet place to enjoy the sights
and sounds of Haida Gwaii’s natural en-
vironment on a late summer evening.
Photo
: Mary H
elm
er
WHEN yOU’ve ReaChED THe EDGe Of YoUR WOrLD, Ours
BeGinS
Respectful silence at Ts’aa.ahl Gwaay.yaay Chaatl.
Photo: Gregory Gould
