The modern housekeepers' guide : with special reference to electric ...

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The

M O D E R N HOUSEKEEPERS ' GUIDE

with special reference to Electric Cookery

Price One Dollar

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Published by

GENERAL STEEL WARES U I M I T E D

M o n t r e a l . Q u e . T o r o n t o , Ont. L o n d o n , O n ( .

W i n n i p e g . M a n . Calftftry, A J l a . V » n c o u v « r , B . C .

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CQpyrtsht 1929 O C N M A t I T C E t W A « t »

T H E / V \ € I ) t R N

G t l E E

E NLECTRIC Cookery is the last word in simplicity, cleanliness and - accuracy. Just as electricity came into industry and changed its ways

of doing things, so has it come into the home and freed the modem housewife from much drudgery and hard work.

For instance, an electric range does not overheat your kitchen. Its heat remains inside—for cooking purposes—and an even temperature to work in is provided at all times of the year.

Your Electric Range The cleanliness of electric cookery must make a strong impression on the

careful housewife—for it produces no soot or fumes, and requires only a mini-mum of care. The enamel finishes in attractive colors or the spotless plain white, gray or black are simple to keep fresh and free from grease.

Polishing or brushing is unnecessary. Simply use a cloth wrung out in hot water in which a little ammonia powder has been shaken, and wipe from the top of the range such soil as remains after the cooking of each meal.

McClary porcelain enamel is thoroughly inspected before leaving the factory, and will give good service if not abused.

Fumes, or steam from the oven; boiling over of tea, grease or vinegar; the use of aluminum or metal cooking utensils which will mark china or enamel, may permanently stain the porcelain enamel on a range if not wiped off at once. However, if through neglect this should happen, the efficiency of the porcelain finish as a rust preventive is not impaired thereby.

The oven temperatures, and time allowed for the different items, have all been secured from the experiences of our own demonstrators. We realize that results thus obtained will not suit everyone using our ranges, and we submit these as a guide only. It will, therefore, be necessary for each user to vary these to suit her own individual taste.

Easy to Keep Clean As for the inside of the oven, an occasional wiping out in the same manner

is the only cleansing it needs. The rounded corners in the oven of the McClary make this easy. The iron racks and rack-holders should occasionally be removed, stood in hot soapsuds and "rubbed down" with a stiff sink brush, to remove any grease. The elements in the McClary oven can be easily pulled out leaving your oven clear for cleaning purposes.

• T H E M O D E R N H O U S E K E E P E R S ' G U I D E •

Proper Use of Broiling Pan The broiling pan, unless in use, should be removed from the oven. This

broiling pan is for broiling and toasting only. Never use this pan to catch dripping from pies, etc., as it will not permit proper circulation of heat in the oven, and prevents you from getting the wonderful baking results that you have the right to expect from your McClary Electric Range. This will add considerably to its long life and keep it in good condition. You would not think of leaving your roaster or roast pan in the oven while other cooking was going on—and yet many cooks think nothing of leaving the broiling pan on duty, whether in use or not.

The greatest economy is possible when using a McClary Electric Range. The range is ready at the turn of a switch. I t is not necessary, however, to always keep the elements on "full". Cheap cooking is to be had by watching, and when pots boil, turn the switch to "medium" or "low". The enclosed elements retain the heat for some time and the switch can be turned to "off" before the cooking is quite done.

Know Your McClary Electric Range Your range is supplied with a porcelain enameled broiler pan, a broiler

rack, heavy porcelain enameled drip tray fitting under cooking top, and thermo-meter in the oven door.

The heat in a McClary Electric Range is obtained from coils of vrire which get red hot when the electric current passes through them.

Each element is controlled by a separate switch. Each switch is plainly marked "High", "Medium" and "Low". So you have as much or as little heat as you wish.

Your range is also supplied with an attachment plug for electric iron, toaster, chafing dish or percolator.

Examine your oven. It is of new blue and white porcelain enamel, seamless in construction, corners smoothly rounded, a clean sanitary oven in which no odors can lurk or greasy residue collect. In this same oven you will learn some of the great advantages and economies of electric cookery.

Some Cookery Points In order to get the best from your range, and your money's worth from

electricity consumed, use utensils which fit over the heating element com-pletely and whose bottoms rest flat. Old, broken-bottomed utensils simply waste heat. Discard them for new ones which sit close and flat and completely cover the unit. Small utensils on large burners waste current. Keep utensils covered.

Porcelain enameled utensils are the best for Electric Ranges, especially those carrying the SMP or McClary trade marks. There is no soot from the element of an Electric Range so the porcelain enamel may be cleaned easily with a damp cloth. Also they can be secured in pretty colors to match exactly the enamel on the range.


Learn to turn your current to "medium" or "low" when possible. You need only enough current to keep vegetables boiling gently. Rapid boiling does not hasten the cooking, and merely wastes fuel. Your range will maintain a boiling temperature on "low" almost indefinitely—and even when the current is entirely shut off, will continue cooking for some time.

Frying A cast iron frying pan with a perfectly flat bottom is best for frying

eggs, pancakes, etc. Turn switch to "High" until pan is heated, then to "Low." Use Drip Top Ware, specially prepared for use on electric ranges.

Cereal Cereal should be started in boiling watfer on full heat, using only the top

section of the double boiler. When it has boiled up well, cover the utenail, turn the current off and allow the cereal to cook on W t stored in the burner. If it is necessary to prepare the cereal overnight, proceed as above, and when cooked, put double boiler together, having boiling water in bottom section. Place on the burner and allow it to continue cooking by the stored heat in the burner. In the morning, nothing remains to be done but to turn the switch and leave the cereal on burner for sufficient time to heat thoroughly before serving.

Oven. Cooking is Economical Cooking in the oven of your electric will prove a great saving, for in the

oven there is no loss of heat by radiation, and you can cook for one hour at least, with the electricity t u r n ^ off, on retained or stored heat alone.

Casserole and braised dishes may be prepared by heating to the desired temperature, then turning off entirely and allowing the dish to remain for one to two hours in the closed oven. In baking or roasting, the current may be switched off 10 to 15 minutes before the food is ready to be removed.

T h e McClary Oven First, place racks as desired; then turn both switches "Full" until required

temperature is reached. Place the food in the oven quickly, and adjust the switches as advised in the following schedule. Food requires practically the same time to bake as in a fuel oven, and if not as brown as desired, the top burner should be turned on for a short time.

Our thoroughly insulated, seamless oven, holds the heat, saves electricity. Avoid opening the oven door while in operation, as the best results are ob ta in^ when baking and roasting by stored heat. Learn to judge heat of oven by thermometer.

DO NOT IMAGINE THE OVEN FAULTY WHEN STEAM ESCAPES AROUND THE DOOR. The oven is not steam tight, it being sufficiently ventilated to provide for the escape of any surplus steam from the food.

Avoid using pans that touch the sides or back of the oven, as this interferes with the circulation of heat.

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Do not allow the oven to get hotter than just necessary to do the work, as this is extravagance in current and may impair the thermometer.

The oven is more easily cleaned while still warm.

Roasting Heat the oven by turning both switches "Full" until thermometer registers

about ZH to 4. Place roast in the oven, leaving both burners "Full" for two or three minutes, or until the meat is well seared. If a covered roaster is used, do not put cover on until surfaces are well seared. Turn top burner "Off" when meat is nicely browned and leave bottom burner "Low." There is no need to cool off the oven by repeated opening of the door, because the oven retains sufficient moisture to prevent meat from drying, and you can tell exactly how it is progressing by watching the thermometer. Water is not required in the pan, as it will only add to the moisture in the oven.

The top burner may be left "Low" if roast is desired quite brown. The oven may be turned right "Off" some little time before cooking is

finished and the roast will continue to cook with the stored heat in the oven. If there is any smoke from roasting or broiling of meats the oven tempera-

ture is far too hot. Cook and Roast longer and more slowly and you will get better results. Always leave oven door slightly open after using to allow any moistiu^ or

odor to escape.

Broiling Turn upper element to "High" for 5 minutes or a little longer, depending

on the strength of the current. Put empty broiling pan and rack in oven until heated, then put in steak, chops, etc., placing broiling pan on the top rack, so that meat is directly exposed to the heat of the upper unit. Sear one side of meat, then turn. For a very thick steak, the lower element may also be turned on.

Steak one inch thick broil 7 to 12 minutes Steak I H inch thick " 10 to 15 ^ Lamb Chops " 8 Fish, medium thick " 12 " or more Chicken " 60 " or more

(Or see individual meat, foul and fish directions.)

Toasting The electric broiling oven produces toast, unequalled by any other method

of cooking. The surfaces are crisp and browned to perfection. Turn upper element in broiling oven to "High" for a few minutes. Arrange slices of white or brown bread on the broiling rack (it will toast about 6 slices at once) and slide into place directly beneath the upper unit, still on "High." When nicely browned, turn the other side. Crackers, sliced buns, fruit loaf, and cheese sandwiches are all toasted this way. After making breakfast toast, sliced bacon or ham may be broiled immediately—the flavor will be far superior to that of fried meat.

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J E L L I ED MEATS OF A L L KINDS ARE DELICIOUS LUNCHEON AND SUPPER DISHES

T H E CHARM O F EVEN PLACING AND SPACING OF S ILVER, A SPOTLESS COVER . AND THOUGHT FOR A BIT OF COLOR

C O O K E D TO PERFECTION, AND WITH A MINIMUM SHRINKAGE , IN A C O V E R E D ROASTING PAN O F PORCELAIN ENAMELED WARE


General Oven Cookery When arranging food in the oven, place the rack so that air can circulate

freely under the utensils. If two racks are used, the one above should just clear the utensils on the one below. After using oven, leave door open for a few minutes to air.

Do not let utensils touch each other or the sides of the oven, or it will interfere with heat distribution. See that utensils fit together easily into the oven before using them.

Vegetables that are being baked require enough water to cover the bottom of the dish. Keep covered or steam may prevent browning of other foods in the oven, which may be cooking at the same time.

Many valuable household hints and recipes will be found on the following pages. They are reliable and have been tested. Use them freely.


T The Kitchen

"MiE day of the large kitchen has passed. The ideal kitchen is REASONS FOR design^ to place all working units convenient to the hand of the T H E S M A L L housekeeper. Thus, the nearer together the kitchen table, the K I T C H E N

sink, the dish cupboard, and the stove can be, the better. The long, almost hall-like kitchen is at present in high favor for

this reason, and many of the most up-to-date apartments and small houses where the routine of housekeeping falls on the mistress of the house, are planned in this way. Concentration of effort is uppermost in the mind of the planner.

The tea wagon, and its partner, the table on casters, are solving the >jeW problem of food and dish transportation; double and triple service f o O L S cooking utensils are replacing the old, unwieldy pots and pans; these, together with proper lighting, both natural and artificial, have made the modern small kitchen a better place to work in than the old-fashioned, large kitchen.

Incorrect lighting can actually cause ill-health and therefore par- K I T C H E N ticular attention should he paid to kitchen lighting, due to the long L I G H T I N G hours spent there.

The chief work-centre of the kitchen is about the sink and prepara-WINDOWS tion table. Therefore, in planning a kitchen, arrange for at least one sunny window over the work-centre. Small windows cause eyestrain, so have it of a good size.

Artificial lighting should be arranged according to a few simple A R T I F I C I A L rules. L I G H T I N G

First, have plenty of light. Too much is impossible. Second, have more than one light, except in the smallest kitchens.

Having more than one hght prevents one "getting in one's own light" —there is always light coming from the side.

Third, have the bright flames or bulbs shielded by white frosted glass. This prevents glare.

Light washable walls, trimmed with woodwork of as light a color K I T C H E N as possible, preferably white, are the most practical for the kitchen. W A L L S The lighter the color of the walls the more light they will reflect and therefore the brighter the kitchen. Dark colors absorb the light and make the room gloomy.

No woman can do her best work in a drab-colored or dingy kitchen. Light colors are no more difficult to keep clean than dark—for there are even waterproof and washable papers on the market now, for kitchen use. If a contrast of color appeals to you, pale blue or green with a white trim are the happiest choices, giving a cool, clean effect.


THE SMP SINK

The SMP Roll Rim Sinks or the New Apron Sink provide an installation combining efficiency, comfort and rich appearance. When an SMP Drain Board is used on each side of the sink—the one on the right for soiled dishes and the one on the left for those that are dry— the dreaded job of dish-washing is made so much easier.

The clean, white, glistening appearance of this group will never be lost because the enamel is of a special formula which resists acids of fruits or stains.

The sink should be 34 inches from the floor—and the advantage of many steps saved and much of that stooping which is the cause of so many aches and so much fatigue—will be recognized every house-keeper.

White enameled metal tops, bearing the SMP mark, can now be purchased to fit a table of any standard size.

CLEANING After the dishes are washed, the most stubborn stains may be SINK removed from the sink by the sprinkling of a few drops of Javelle water,

a judicious sweep with the dish mop and a good rinsing with hot water. Javelle water may be purchased at the drug or grocery store, or

made at home. Do not use Javelle water if waste water runs into a septic tank as it may injure the operation of the tank.

GARBAGE modern kitchen garbage can has taken on the sanitary aspects CAjvj of the doctor's office. Its lid is lifted by a foot pedal, and its contents

removed in a bag or paper container. This failing, newspaper laid inside helps to keep the garbage can sanitary.

THE SMP SINK AND GARBAGE CAN


T h e Refrigerator Modern life is substituting metal for wood wherever possible. Metal

motor car bodies, metal furniture, metal table tops are indications of the trend of the times. The wood refrigerator ia as obsolete as the wooden motor car body.

The all-metal refrigerator is to be preferred, both for economic and hygienic reasons. It cannot absorb and retain odors from foods and wet rot can never occur in a metal icebox.

The S M P metal refrigerators are made in every style and size and take either ice or a mechanical freezing unit. They are insulated in the best manner known to science which ensures a saving in money not possible with other types.

When placing an ice refrigerator, keep in mind that icemen make tracks on a kitchen floor. Arrange to place the refrigerator near the outside door or if possible in some convenient place where the actual icing will not take place in the kitchen at all.

To save trouble and labor run a pipe or rubber hose from the drip pipe to a drain or even out-of-doors. No pan-emptying is necessary and there is no danger of a troublesome overflow if this is done.

An iceless refrigerator, of course, may be placed anywhere, and shoiild be as near the kitchen worker's activities as possible.

R E F R I G E R -A T O R

A L L M E T A L B E S T T Y P E

L O C A T I O N

T H E D R A I N


ARRANGE- Within the icebox, arrange foods so that the flavor cannot be M E N T OF affected by other foods with a strong odor. FOOD Butter should be enclosed in a glass or earthenware container,

milk securely stoppered, and eggs removed from anything likely to be strong, Buch as fish or cheese, as their shells are porous and absorb flavors to which they are exposed.

Cheese should always.be placed under a "bell" or in a container in order to protect other foods from contamination.

As a rule, anything which is likely to have a strong odor should be placed on the upper shelves, and always covered.

TEMPERA- In the food chambers, a refrigerator should maintain a temperature TURE lower than 50° Fahrenheit to keep food from spoiling.

TABLE COVERINGS

White enameled metal tops, bearing the SMP trade mark, can now be purchased to fit a table of any standard size.

Any kitchen table can be made attractive-looking and serviceable by the simplest means. White oil cloth tacked neatly over a wooden top, or a removable oil cloth cover, are first thoughts for presentable cleanliness.

An uncovered plank surface is rarely satisfactory, for crumbs and moisture collect in cracks which are almost certain to form. The man of the house can easily apply a thick sheet of zinc or sheet aluminum to a small table top, taking care that the under edges are not jagged.

COLORED Light colors have come to the walls of the kitchen and now practical COOKING enameled ware utensils are procurable in attractive colors to finish UTENSILS the bright scheme.

Be sure to buy enameled ware utensils bearing either the SMF, Davidson or McClary trade-mark, as these are the most satisfactory.

The following list may be carried out in either the enameled or aluminum wares, preferably enameled wares, supplemented by iron, wooden or earthenware where recommended for special use:

Utensils Large kettle for preserving Large convex or London saucepan Large double boiler for cereals Small double boiler Mediimi sauce pan

2 Small sauce pans Large C o v e r t Roaster Small Covered Roaster Steamer Casserole

Pitcher Set of measuring spoons Egg beater Batter whisk Ice pick Set of skewers Sharp butcher knife Bread knife

2 Paring knives • Fruit knife


8 Bread pans 2 Large and 2 Small bake pans 4 Pie plates

Muffin pan Large iron skillet Drip top Dutch Oven Frying pan Toaster Nest of mixing bowls—various sizes Dipper Skimmer

4 Large spoons (metal) 2 Large spoons (wooden)

Apple corer Chopping knife Wooden chopping bowl Wooden bread board Measuring cup (glass Flour sifter Colander Large strainer Small strainer Can opener Corksaw Bottle cap lifter Cooky cutters.

UTENSILS CONT.

Breakfast Nook One of the most helpful improvements of the past ten years for

both town and country homes, is the breakfast nook. If you possess a large, old-fashioned kitchen, there is every possibility of introducing at small cost one of these delightful comers.

BREAKFAST NOOK


In many of the smaller, up-to-date kitchens a breakfast nook is built-in.

In many town houses to-day, where the living room has become a combination dining and living room, the breakfast nook is a boon to the housekeeper, and a delightful, intimate place at meal time.

Where there are children, the nook, with good lighting and comfort-able seats, makes an admirable home-work comer, removed from the hubbub of the house.


Dish Washing and Care of Utensils / " T ^ H E first step in dish washing is to separate the various articles

to be washed, according to their degrees of soil, and scrape them free of clinging food and grease.

The glasses naturally come first, to be followed b y the silver, then cups, s n ^ l and large plates, and last, pots and pans.

Have the dish pan three-quarters filled with hot water when you shake in enough ammonia powder to soften .the water (no soop). If glasses have contained milk or egg, rinse them first in cold water, then dip in the hot. Place in draining basket, pour over a little hot rinsing water and dry with a soft dry towel while still hot.

Next, place the silver in the dish pan, still containing only ammonia powder. Soap makes silver cloudy, and should not be added to the water until the cutlery is done. Pearl or ivory-handled cutlery should merely have their prongs or blades placed in the water.

Most h o u s e k e e p ^ have learned the desirability of stainless steel in dinner knives, but if yours are of the old-fashion^ metal, they may be most succesrfiJly cleansed with powdered bath brick and cork or one of the well-known mild cleansers.

When silver is removed and dried, stir the water briskly with the soap shaker until a good suds is formed, then set in the plates, first rinsing in cold water anything soiled with egg. Rinse all dishes with clear hot water before drying.

Coarse salt is a handy thing to keep in a jar near the sink, for it helps to remove stains on both silver and china. Silver that has become discolored b y egg may be rubbed clean with a little salt, while plates or dishes that have been stained b y overheating may often be success-fully cleansed b y rubbing with a cork and a bit of damp salt.

Keep the dish towels clean and dry. Rinse out in soap flakes and hot water after every using. A greasy or soiled dish towel will not absorb moisture, will make the work harder, and will leave the dishes dingy.

Never put a wooden utensil away damp, or without removing entirely from its surface any traces of the substance with which it has last come in contact. Scrub, if necessary, vnth the grain, with water hot enough to lift grease, or, if only slightly soiled, wipe off with cloth wrung out of hot water. Never soak a wooden vessel or spoon.

Planks for baking should be "seasoned" with cooking fat or oil when new, and in addition should be greased before every using.

If spoons, planks or chopping bowls splinter or become rough, smooth down with sandpaper, rubbing with the grain.

O R D E R O F W A S H I N G D I S H E S

W A S H I N G S I L V E R

C L E A N I N G S T E E L K N I V E S

USE OF S A L T

D I S H T O W E L S

W O O D E N U T E N S I L S


E N A M E L E D Wash any enameled ware in hot soapy suds. W A R E A mild cleansing powder may be used to remove stains. To remove

food that has been burned on, place a little fat of any kind in the vessel and warm it gently; this will soften the burned substance so that it may be readily scraped off; or leave soaking in a mild soda solution.

C A R E OF A nickeled tea-kettle, the nickeled trimmings on a stove, etc., N I C K E L should be washed with hot soap suds occasionally, then rinsed with

very hot water. Polish with a soft dry cloth. A fine abrasive, such as powdered bath brick or one of the well-known mild cleansing powders may be used to remove tarnish or stains.

C A R E OF Silver cannot be cleaned with ordinary brass or nickel polishes, most S I L V E R of which contain chemicals or grit which spell ruin for its delicate

surface. The best silver polishes on the market are based either on "rouge"—a fine clay used by jewellers—or silicon powder.

A soft tooth brush may be used for getting into the crevices of ornamented silver. Final polishing is most successful when done with a large piece of chamois. Sometimes this chamois, if it has done regular service, will serve to give the silver a good "rubbing up" without using more polish. Ammonia is not injurious to silver and is useful for mois-tening powder cleansers.

R E M O V I N G A piece or two of camphor in the silver drawer is a good preventive T A R N I S H of tarnish.

A very simple method of removing stubborn tarnish is as follows: Take an enameled vessel large enough to contain silverware, put into it an old piece of aluminum (do not use an aluminum utensil still in use for cooking, as this process would quickly corrode it) and one quart of water in which is dissolved one teaspoon of salt and one teaspoon of soda.

Put over the fire and boil gently until the tarnish is removed. This gives a satiny appearance and makes the silver quite clean.

Hollow-handl^ cutlery, candle sticks or any ivory or pearl-handled silver should be merely dipped into the solution. Do not allow to get hot

C A R E OF Do not use any strong alkali like washing soda in cleaning or in A L U M I N U M boiling. It will eat through the metal. Similarly, do not use for holding

or heating any strong acid. Clean with steel wool, fine steel mitt, or one of the good cleansing powders.

When an aluminum pan becomes discolored it may be easily cleaned by boiling a stick or two of rhubarb, tomatoes, or some other acid fruit, with plenty of water. If badly burned inside, soap flakes may be b o i l ^ to a jelly in the vessel and allowed to cool. The soil will be lifted out when the jelly is removed.

C A R E OF Always leave an iron vessel just a little greasy, as this will protect IRON from rust. Scald with hot water and wipe out after using, with paper, VESSELS finishing with a dry-wnmg dish cloth. An iron vessel shoiald be per-

fectly clean, but always iust a little polished with fat.

• T H E M O D E R N H O U S E K E E P E R S G U I D E •

Laundry ' T M I E most common form of the "hard" water is that which con-

J^ tains lime or gypsum. This substance in solution in water unites with ordinary soap to form a sort of curdly scum, or "hard soap",

and not until it has taken its full share of your laimdry soap or powders will it agree to assist in forming the suds which are nectesary for washing.

The way to save time, energy and soap, therefore, is to get this chemical reaction over with before actual washing begins. Any mild alkali such as ammonia, dissolved and diluted washing soda or borax, are excellent water softeners.

Their use for this purpose will not prove injurious to fabric, for their chemical action on the hard water, if they are added in proper proportion, will have already removed the possibility of any action upon the clothes to be laundered.

SOFTENING HARD WATER

Washing soda should be prepared by dissolving one pound of the WASHING crystals in one quart of boiling water. Keep bottled and use two SODA tablespoonfuls to each gallon of washing water.

Ammonia may be used in either liquid or powder form. Instructions AMMONIA for use come on the packages of the various commercial preparations according to their str^gth.

Borax is the mildest of all the water softeners. It requires, however, only one tablespoonful dissolved in a cup of hot water to soften a gallon of laundry water.

BORAX

Water which is simply muddy or dirty may be cleared by adding a mixture of 2 parts of borax and 1 part of alum, in the proportion of one tablespoonful to each gallon. When the matter which is floating about is gathered up by this solution, it will settle at the bottom of the tank or boiler, then the clear water can be drawn off.

DIRTY WATER

Water which contains iron is the most troublesome. If it is bad enough to leave rust stains, laundry water must be prepared several days—preferably a week—before use. Add washing soda in proportions given previously and allow it to gather up the iron and settle. Then draw the water off.

Sometimes it is just as well to purchase a laundry soap containing borax or naphtha which, unless the water is very hard, will usually serve the double purpose of softener and soil-remover.

One can only experiment and find what is most suitable for local conditions. A good mild alkali, however, in addition to soap, is ever a help in washing very dirty clothes, and may be used in any water.

RUSTY WATER


SOAP JELLY

ORDER OF WASHING

RINSING

Flake soap, or a soap jelly made at home by cutting up one cake of laundry soap and melting in 1 quart of hot water, is recommended for making a fine rich suds. Such jellies and flake soaps save rubbing, and are, therefore, savers of fabric.

In washing machines, flakes or soap jelly must, of course, always be used.

Washing Equipment A good wringer is an essential to efficient laundry work, and should

be used between processes. Failing a washing machine, a good suction cup with handle greatly

lessens laundry labor. The June Day Clothes Dryer operated by either gas or electricity

is a particularly valuable piece of equipment, especially in cold climates where frozen clothes cannot be avoided if drying is done out-of-doors in winter.

With The June Day Clothes Dryer the clothes are ready for ironing within an amazingly short time, so that, with its help, the washing and ironing may be completed in one day.

The usual "stuffiness" associated with clothes dried indoors is not present because of the ventilation provided in this time-saving piece of equipment.

The electric ironer is now used even for dresses, the fine touches being added later by hand. Initials on linen are made to "stand up" on the ironer by running a bath towel through with them, the piece to to be ironed next the " foot" or mechanical iron. Of course, all em-broideries should always be pressed on the wrong side, whether by machine or by hand.

Badly soiled cottons and linens may be soaked in water to which soap solution has been added, before washing. Flannels and silks should never be soaked. Colored fabrics may be soaked separately, if abso-lutely necessary, in clear water.

Stains should have attention at the time of making, if possible, but in any event, they should be attended to before wetting, as watCT has a tendency to set them. Clothes that have been soaked should be rinsed before washing, and attended to in order of soil, keeping the most soiled pieces for the last.

Silks and woolens shouW be washed separately in fresh water. Cottons and linens may be boiled in clean water with soap solution,

before rinsing.

Rinsing is a tremendously important factor in good laundry w o r k -most especially where strong soaps or water softeners have been used. Every vestige of alkali must be removed from the fabrics washed, or they will soon show signs of "eating."

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Keep the rinsing water up to the regular washing temperature, not only to loosen soap, but to prevent shrinking. Even blue water should not be absolutely cold.

Blue water should be colored so that when a little is lifted in the BLUING palm of the hand it is about the tint of the sky. Some laundresses com-bine the process of starching with bluing, adding the starch solution to the blue water, or vice versa in the case of heavily starched pieces, such as collars, etc.

Never overblue. The function of bluing is merely to offset the tendency of white fabrics to become yellow.

The starching is an important factor in the production of good TO STARCH results. CLOTHES

Mix the starch first with a little cold water and stir into boiling water. It will require fifteen or twenty minutes cooking to so clarify it that it will penetrate well into the materials.

Add a little butter or lard to the boiling starch to prevent sticking to the iron.

Mix H cup starch with ^ cup of cold water. Add to three quarts THIN of boiling water with V level tablespoon of borax and H level table- STARCH spoon of lard or butter. Cook fifteen to twenty minutes.

Mix H cup of starch with ^ cup of cold water. Add to one quart of THICK boiling water with H to 1 level tablespoon of borax, H level table- STARCH spoon of lard or butter. Cook fifteen to twenty minutes.

Stir together the same ingredients as for thick starch, except for RAW the fatty substance. This is used to give decided stiffness to very thick STARCH or very thin goods. Difficult to iron well.

Dilute l i cup of thick starch with one q u ^ t of hot water. Useful CLEAR for very shew and dainty materials. STARCH

If even greater stiffness is required add 1 tablespoon of gum arabic, SPECIAL dissolved in half a cupful of boiling water, to the thick starch mixture. STIFFENING The gum arabic alone, dissolved and added to rinsing water will restore the original freshness to organdies and tulles.

To be thoroughly and easily ironed, clothes must be dampened, rolled, and the moisture permitted to spread evenly through them.

For sprinkling nothing is better than a rubber tube with a fine spray nozzle, attached to the faucet. This will give an even and small amount of water. Roll handkerchiefs and small pieces in a bath towel. Do not leave dampened elothei longer than overnight. They will "sour" and mildew if left longer, particularly if they have been starched.

P R I N K L I N G

11


COLORED FABRICS

TO "SET" COLORS

COLOR-FIXING SOLUTIONS

Colored clothing needs extra care. Each color is washed separately, in case the dye should run. The work should be done quickly, the garment hung up in the shade, wrong side out, to dry at once, otherwise it may run and streak.

Long-drawn-out wetness, strong alkalis or acids or a bleaching agent, whether sunshine or chemical, will all be harmful. Don't soak, therefore, unless necessary. Use a pure, mild soap. If a softening agent must be used, let it be borax. Rub starch in well and wipe off any excess, to avoid white spots and streaks.

Colors that are apt to fade may often be "set" by soaking overnight in one of the common color-fixing solutions. Test a small piece of cloth first and see which solution acts on it best.

After the soaking, dry thoroughly before washing. Another good plan to prevent fading, even when the color seems

reasonably fast, is to rinse the garment in a diluted salt solution just before h^g ing to dry.

To make the common color-fixing solutions: Add cup of mild vinegar to one gallon of water—effective for blues.

2 cups of salt dissolved in one gallon of water—effective for pink, black or brown.

1 tablespoonful of sugar of lead (poison) dissolved in one gallon of water—rffective for lavender.

WASHING WOOLENS

RINSING WOOLENS

PRESSING WOOLENS

Woolens Woolen materials also require sensible and considerate treatment.

Again, they should be handled quickly. These rules should be kept flnnly in mind:

Water should be pleasantly lukewarm, neve- hot. Even tempera-ture throughout the washing is absolutely essential. A sudden change will cause immediate s h r i n k ^ . Pure, mild soap should be used and it should be melted as abeady directed. If water is hard, use a table-spoonful of borax or ammonia to each gallon of water.

Rub as little as possible. Squeeze the garment, plunge it up and down in the water gently with the hands, or the fibres will mat and harden. A second clean suds of same temperature is often advisable and several rinsing waters should be used.

Be sure no particle of soap remains. Put through a loosely-set wringer and hang, wrong side out, in a warm place—never near a fire, however, because sudden heat will cause shrinkage.

Blankets should be given the same treatment. Squeeze the water from the lower hanging edge occasionally, during drying period.

If woolens are pressed, don't use too hot an iron.

12


Silk and Rayon Silk should be given a similar washing to woolens, wrung between

towelfi and ironed on the wrong side while damp. T o avoid stiffening, iron under a cloth.

P R E S S I N G S I L K

Since the introduction of artificial silk into so many departments T O W A S H of the wardrobe, from undies to frocks, this class of fabric has assumed A R T I F I C I A L particular importance in the laundry. It requires special treatment and S I L K S if properly handled, will give long and useful s m d c e .

The chief point to remember in washing rayon and celanese fabrics, is that rubbing is unnecessary. It is, therefore, a good precaution to bind all bias seams on the wrong side with tape to prevent pulling, f o r these are a lways weak spots.

Before act\ially tubbing, shake the article well to remove dust, for this will save the setting of surface dirt by the water. Use mild soap flakes or soap jelly in lukewarm water. All colors may be washed at once, for artificial silks are color-fast. Knead and squeeze the silks, rubbing between the hands very lightly only where soil w bad, as on wrist and neck bands.

B I N D I N G S E A M S

Rinse in clear w a t o of the same temperature, being sure that all R I N S I N G trace of soap is removed. The alkali found in all soaps is even more A R T I F I C I A L destructive to artificial silks than to other fabrics. S I L K S

On heavy pieces, the wr inger may be used if not too tightly screwed down. The silks should, however, be folded neatly. Creases can be removed if done at once. The best method is to squeeze the water out with the hands wherever possible.

In a very sheer piece, wrap in an old clean cloth that is absorbent, or a bath towel, and "blot" the excess water out with gentle patting and pressing. ^

It is best to lay artificial silks flat to dry, but do not permit dress to become quite dry. A drying rack is good, or they maj* even be hung over the line.

If the clothes are laid on an old sheet on the grass, however, much of the water will be absorbed by the cloth beneath, thus removing rinsing water without strain on the fabric.

W R I N G I N G

xy.

Rayon mesh underwear does not need pressing. Celanese or rayon fabric may be pressed on the wrong side with a not-too-hot iron. Great heat will absolutely destroy the fibres.

Though many artificial silks are sunfast, if they should become faded, they may be dipped in any of the rinsing tints ordinarily used in keeping underthings fresh and new-looking.

P R E S S I N G A R T I F I C I A L S I L K S

13


WHEN TO WASH FURNITURE

Care of Furniture and Rugs ' ' T ^ H E R E are very few things in this world that are not better for

J_ having their faces washed—including both furniture and rugs. The fine deep glow that is the glory of well-kept furniture conies

not by the application of furniture polish alone. Many people, not knowing the protective qualities of the finishes

used on modern furniture, would consider it sacrilege to apply water to their shining surfaces, but there are few pieces of polished furniture in everyday use that would not be improved by simple washing. Con-tinued applications of oil polish are bound to accumulate in time a greasy residue powdered with fine grit, which dusting merely nibs further and further into the surface.

Warm soap and water or even a quart of water in which a small crjrstal of washing soda has been dissolved, and applied with a soft cloth or chamois, will work wonders in removing the dull look from your mahogany and walnut. Thoroughly dried with a piece of cheese cloth and rubbed with oiled flannel, any piece will take on new life after such treatment.

STAINS AND BLEMISHES

Stains and Blemishes Desks and tables are the chief sufferers from the stains and bruises

of ordinary household use.

INK STAINS Take, for instance, the common bugbear of inkstain. If clear water and rubbing with a cloth will not remove the dried ink, it has probably penetrated into the grain, in which case it may often be removed by touching with a weak solution of spirits of nitre applied with a feather. As soon as the ink is removed, rub the spot with a cloth dampened in clear water. If the stain is very bad, a second or third application may be necessary. Spirits of nitre may be applied in the same way to stains made by hot dishes, the spot to be nibbed immediately after with olive oil.

HOT PLATE A mixture of salt and olive oil is also effective in removing hot MARKS plate marks. Cover the spot with a thick layer of salt and pour upon

it as much oil as it will absorb. Leave for twelve hours, remove and rub with more olive oil.

GREASE Turpentine or hot water will remove grease stains.

REMOVING Bruises on furniture can be successfully "lifted" by applying a pad BRUISES of brown paper or blotting paper soaked in warm water. When the

wood has become thoroughly dampened by the pad, hold a warm iron over the paper until quite diy. The process may have to be repeated several times, but it is an unfailing remedy if faithfully tried.

14


Beeswax is an excellent filler for the cracks and breaks which often occur in furniture. Soften the wax over heat or in the hands until malleable, then press into the cracks and smooth over the top with a thin knife or stick. When hard, sandpaper. The dust from the sand-papering also helps fill the cracks, and when the place is polished over, the blemish is hardly noticeable.

"Dead-looking" furniture may be effectively revived by a solution composed of equal parts of vinegar, methylated spirits (wood alcohol) or turpentine and linseed oil. Shake the mixture well before using, apply with a flannel cloth, and be sure that it is thoroughly dried with a second woolen rag before leaving. (Keep away from fire.) This is a good annual treatment for all household wood, for it cleanses as well as polishes.

FILLING CRACKS

Upholstered Furniture

TO BRIGHTEN FINISH

Embedded dirt is the enemy of all overstuffed or upholstered furniture, and its regular removal by vacuuming or beating is the best insurance of long life your pieces have. Failing a vacuum cleaner a good method for periodic cleaning is to cover the piece with an old sheet soaked in water. Beat with a carpet bea t^ strenuously. You will be amazed to see the lurking dirt that will be brought to the surface and caught in the damp folds of the cotton.

Spots of all sorts may be successfully removed from cloth or leather coverings at home, if their nature can be discovered. Of course, the ideal time to treat a spot is directly after it has been made, when a comparatively simple application will save its becoming absorbed by the cloth fibres, or adding to its tenacity by collecting dust. A number of standard removers for such stains will be listed later on.

However, as it is not always possible to know a spot's age or origin when we discover it, it is wise to know how to test or recognize the various tjTJes of stain before attempting to deal with them. Sugar or candy stains are usually easily detected by their sticky quality or the fact that they stay on the surface of the fabric. They may be removed by water, or if very gummy, one of the solvents such as ben-zene, benzol, or alcohol. Grease spots usually show darker than the material. Their various treatments are given in the chapter on stain-removal.

Acid or alkali stains usually lighten or completely change the color of a fabric. These are difficult to diagnose, as their appearance is so often alike. A weak alkaline solution will frequently restore the color where it has been removed by acid stain, and vice versa. The only way to be sure as to whether the stain was caused by acid or alkali, is to carefully experiment with first a mild acid, such as vinegar, or a mild alkali like soda, dissolved in a little water, working around the edge. If the soda seems to have effect, it is an acid stain; if the vinegar, an alkali. Then proceed as directed in the chapter on steins.

CLEANING FURNITURE COVERINGS

REMOVING SPOTS

SUGAR OR GREASE

ACID OR ALKALI

16


SOAP AND First and above all, do not go at stain-removal hastily. Try the WATER simplest methods first, and let warm soap and water have its chance FIRST before proceeding with anything more complicated—particularly

when not sure what caused the spot. CLEANING More rugs are worn out by tramped-in grit and dirt than by long RUGS usage.

Periodic vacuuming is an ideal method of removing dirt from all sorts of floor-covering, for it not only sucks out dust and grit, but keeps the pile upstanding. However, there are simple methods of keep-ing rugs in condition if one-does not possess vacuum equipment.

The important thing to remember is that the pile must be kept full of life and fluffy. Once it- becomes depressed and packed down, the rug is far more susceptible to wear. An excellent old-fashioned method of duBtless cleaning is to s w e ^ with wet tea leaves or torn newspaper soaked in water and scattered over the rug's surface.

The annual sending of rugs to the cleaner is a splendid insurance of long life, but dry cleaning at home is eq\ially effective and much less expensive.

The Dry Scrub SCRUBBING To prepare a dry scrub, dissolve one half cup of finely shaved mild

soap or soap flakes in a quart of hot water. Allow to stand until a jelly is formed. Add a cup of this jelly to a quart of water in a bucket and beat with a whisk until a fluffy lather is formed. It must be a dry, light suds. Have the rug spread flat upon the floor, and apply to a small-area at a time as much lather as is taken up on a long-bristled brush.

Professional carpet washers use a brush that looks very much like a street-cleaner's, with a long handle like a mop. An ordinary medium-bristled scrubbing brush is equally useful, though it requires a kneeling posture.

Use enough suds to maintain a stiff lather all the time. Wipe up the suds from the scrubbed area with a soft cloth or another softer brush, being careful to lift it from the rug, rather than forcing it in.

After the whole rug has been done, go over with the soft brush dipped in clear water, rubbing the right way of the nap to insiu-e a smooth surface. Allow to dry, but when still slightly damp, brush with a soft dry brush to raise and fluff the nap.

The secret of the success of this treatment is that the rug is never really wet through, for the suds and not the water beneath them are used in the scrubbing.

Actually washing a domestic rug or carpet takes away the sizing at the back which gives it the body required to lie flat on the floor. Oriental, rag, hooked and domestic rugs of all kinds respond splendidly to this •"dry' treatment, however.

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Removing Stains from Fabrics WHERE fabrics are stained so that ordinary washing or sponging will not remedy the matter, special treatment is necessary.

Boiling water is successful for certain stains, others require chemicals. Javelle water (for white cotton goods only), potassium permanganate in solution (for white and some colored g o o ^ ) , oxalic acid (poison), liquid ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, French chalk, should be kept on hand but safely out of reach in the case of poisons, to prevent accident.

They must be lased quickly to prevent damage to fibres. Stretch the stained portion tightly over a bowl and apply chemicals from a medicine dropper or the point of a skewer or small stick.

Javelle water is made as follows: 1 pound washing soda 1 quart boiling water

^ pound chloride of lime 2 quarts cold water.

Put soda into a granite pan, add boiling water, stir until dissolved, and coo'. Dissolve chloride of lime in cold water, allow to settle, then pour off clear liquid into the soda solution, let settle, pour off clear liquid, bottle and keep in a dark place.

Mix a quantity for use with an equal quantity or more of water, according to delicacy of fabric, and don't soak garments in it more than half an hour. Rinse in several waters and, lastly, in diluted ammonia.

REMOVING STUBBORN STAINS

Pour boiling water from a height on stain. Rub a little between FRESH times, and bleach in the sun. If the stain will not yield to boiling water, FRUIT moisten with lemon juice and expose to sun. A stain which turns blue STAINS or gray should be moistened with ojtalic acid or lemon juice. Potassium permanganate or Javelle water may be used.

Easier to remove than are the stains made by fresh fruits. Boiling COOKED water and soap will suffice, except for red or purple stains, which are FRUIT treated like f r ^ fruit stains.

Cold water, followed by hot water and soap, or by a grease solvent. EGG

Soap and hot water; sprinkling with borax, wet with cold water and rinse in boiling water. Liikewarm water for delicate fabrics.

COCOA CHOCOLATE

The cream calls for grease solvent. Soap and water or potassium COFFEE permanganate may be used.

Potassium permanganate is prepared for use by dissolving one . teaspoonful of the crystals in a pint of water. Apply with medicine dropper or small glass rod, allow to remain five minutes. If a brown

17


IRON R U S T

M E A T J U I C E

M E D I C I N E S

M I L D E W

P E R S P I R A -T I O N

S C O R C H

A C I D S

A L K A L I S T A I N S

or pink stain is left it may be removed by applying hydrogen peroxide made acid by addition of one drop oxalic acid to five teaspoonfuls peroxide.

Dilute hydrochloric acid, oxalic acid or lemon juice.

Treat like blood.

Soap and water, oxalic acid, alcohol or Javelle water.

Soap and water and bleaching, water, potassium permanganate.

Sour mOk, lemon juice, Javelle

D Y E OR R U N COLORS

BLOOD

Yellow stains on white material may generally be removed by soap and water, followed by bleaching in the sun.

Javelle water or potassium permanganate may be used if the simpler measures are not effective.

Yellow scorch stains can sometimes be removed, if the fibres are not actually burned—more especially where the material is cotton or linen, which will stand a higher temperature.

Soap and water may remove slight stains. Water and sunlight may work; wet spot with water, or soap and

water, and expose to sun for a day or two. Bread crust rubbed on a very slight surface scorch will sometime

remove it.

Cold or warm water, sunlight. Javelle water, potassium perman-ganate or hydrogen peroxide, with a little ammonia in it, may be tried, the last for silk and wool goods.

Cold water. Soak and rub and when light brown wash with hot water and soap as usual. Ammonia—one ounce to one gallon water— will loosen old stains. Hydrogen peroxide, sponged on, will often remove stubborn blood stains.

Raw starch and water in thick paste applied to flannel, blankets, etc., and brushed off when dry. Repeat if necessary.

Rinse immediately with water to dilute and remove the acid. This will save the fabric, but not the color. The remaining acid must be neutralized with an alkali to do this. Good agents for this purpose are ammonia fumes (holding fabric over the mouth of the bottle), sponging with diluted ammonia, or application of baking soda. Wet the soda and spread on both sides of ^ e cloth if possible. Allow to stand as long as it effervesces. Rinse with cold water.

Mild alkalis, such as ammonia or borax, may be removed by rinsing with wata-. Stronger alkalis require to be neutralized after rinsing, by a mild acid such as lemon juice, vinegar or oxalic acid. Rinse and rub dry.

18


Oxalic acid should be given the careful oversight a dangerous poison requires. Prepare by dissolving in a pint of lukewarm water all the crystals it will melt, bottle, cork tightly, and put in a safe place for use as needed.

Apply with dropper, allow to remain a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly in clear water.

Scrape off as much as possible. Apply a hot iron over blotting paper. If a grease spot is left, sponge with alcohol, benzol or benzene.

Hot soap and water. Usually alcohol will be the only solvent necessary. Apply with a sponge.

Cold water, alcohol.

Use a non-inflammable solvent, such as carbon tetrachloride or one of the commoner preparations, which usually contain one or more of the solvents. Grease stains mixed with black should first be cleansed with a clean, white fat such as lard or one of its vegetable substitutes, and then treated as for an ordinary grease spot. Blotting paper and a hot iron are a good preliminary treatment for any grease spot.

Warm water and soap. If grease spot remains, treat with grease solvent.

Blot up as much as will absorb into blotting paper or salt and damp cloths. Then scrub until no more color appears on blotter or cloth. Milk is an old-fashioned but effective ink remover if the fabric can be left to soak in it. Treat printer's ink as for shoe polish, (paste.)

A new tested remedy is the application of peroxide and baking soda in a watery paste, and allowing to stand. Wash in clear water. This is safe even for colored fabric, silk or cotton.

Rub copiously with laundry soap and raise a good lather, applying persistent friction. Old paint stains may be softened with lard, and then sponged with turpentine or benzine. B E C A R E F U L ! These solvents are inflammable. Do not rub strenuously or allow to get near flame.

Sponge with turpentine, benzine, gasoline, carbon tetrachloride or alcohol. B E C A R E F U L !

Dampen with turpentine, and allow to soften if old. Then rub with turpentine and alcohol. A fresh varnish stain may be removed with alcohol.

Cleanse with lard, and wash afterwards with hot soap and water.

Blot and rub off as much as possible, then rub with clean, damp cloths until removed.

T A L L O W OR P A R A F F I N

G L U E OR F L Y P A P E R

GRASS OR P L A N T S T A I N

G R E A S E SPOTS

I C E C R E A M , C R E A M

I N K

P A I N T

T A R , PITCH OR R E S I N

V A R N I S H , S H E L L A C

SHOE POLISH (Paste)

SHOE POLISH (Liquid)

19


Floors and Woodwork

Fl o o r s are of greater importance these days than ever in the past, for the vogue for tacked-down carpets has flown with anti-macassars and plush rockers.

The removable rug is one of the hygienic b l e s s i n g of the present age. With the discoveries of the past years in fast-drying, brushing

lacquers, even the soft wood floors which were formerly either painted or discreetly hidden under carpeting, m a y be attractively stained and given a presentable finish.

U S E O F Lacquer m a y be waxed or renewed from time to time with new L A C Q U E R applications. On the other hand, a floor which has been previously

waxed, varnished or painted, should have all vestiges of the old treat-ment removed before lacquering is attempted.

R E M O V I N G W a x is particularly hard to remove from cracks, and can only be W A X lifted b y generous applications of hot water and washing soda, aided

by a stiff scrubbing brush. Although certain lacquers may be used over old coats of paint and

varnish of good quality, it is not always possible to know what grade of material one is dealing with, so that the safest rule to follow in applying lacquer, is always to work with a clean surface.

Clean First T h e care of hardwood floors, usually oak, maple or birch, is a simple

routine once the wood is thoroughly clean. Sof t warm water will usually remove ordinary soil, though turpentine or gasoline is sometimes necessary to eliminate tenacious stains of long standing.

Strong soda solutions or abrasive powders are not advisable. T h e cleansed dry wood will take on a fine soft glow when once thoroughly waxed and polished.

A P P L Y I N G When the wax has been applied over the whole expanse of floor, it W A X should be allowed to " s o a k " for about a quarter of an hour—not longer

or it will harden—and then polished either with a "weight" or electric polisher.

These latter are now equipped with waxing attachments which greatly minimize the labor of application, though a soft old flannel cloth, well waxed, and tied over a weighted brush m a y be used to equally good effect.

Beware of using any oil preparation or oil-soaked mop on a waxed floor. They will simply liquefy the wax already applied and destroy the polish.

20


Varnished or lacquff l^ floors may be oiled with p a f e c t safety, but for daUy dusting of ^ e waxed floor, a clean, soft, y a m mop, moistened with a little of the wax preparation already descr ibe or a small amount of turpentine, is the only desirable medium.

A waxed cloth is excellent for painted floors, giving them a clean, dustless appearance. This treatment is also excellent for dark tiled surfaces, as in vestibules or sunrooms. Linoleums are given twice their life by lacquering, varnishing or waxing.

C A R E OF V A R N I S H OR L A C Q U E R

An oil mop for unwaxed floors, or a duster for any woodwork or OIL M O P furniture, is easily treated by soaking in linseed oil, and allowing to dry in the air. This treatment will withstand several washings before redipping is necessary.

A small assortment of brushes and mops is a boon in caring for the TOOLS woodwork of a house. The long, straight y a m mop is most useful for general purposes, for it pursues dust into comers as well as lifting it in its broad path over expanses of floor.

Very narrow, flexible bristled brushes, or long, straight y a m mops with short handles, are labor-savers in stair-sweeping. A long-handled "baby" broom saves stooping in sweeping accumulated fluff into the dustpan.

Much of the modern woodwork nowadays has what is known as a "mbbed" finish. It may either have been stained and rabbed with wax, or with oil. It should receive the respective treatments for waxed floors, as outlined above, if waxed; for varnish if oiled. Be extremely careful not to remove the soft glow by lifting out too much of the oil by washing with strong soda solutions.

It is quite safe, however, to use hot water and a little washing soda, on woodwork either varnished, painted, enameled or lacquered.

Renovating Old Woodwork Old woodwork which has been many times recoated with paint and

varnish, particularly in dark, sombre colors, is an eyesore with which many housekeepers are faced.

It is difficult to keep looking clean, and because of its many past applications of paint, hopeless to "do over" without at least part removal of the residue of years.

W O O D W O R K A N D T R I M S

R E N O V A T I N G OLD WOODWORK

Armed with a pair of mbber gloves and rubber apron, take a large pail of boiling water and one of clear cold water, a can of potash and a bottle of vinegar to the scene of activities. Dissolve the potash in the hot water, shaking it in gradually. (Hot water aids in quick action of the potash on the old paint). Rub over a large expanse of the wood with this solution, using a large long-handled mop.

M E T H O D

21


After a fairly large surface has been covered with the solution, begin rubbing off the old paint. When removed down to the surface of the wood, rinse with cold water to prevent the potash eating into the wood, then wipe with a cloth soaked in vinegar. This neutralizes any vestige of the strong alkali which may still remain.

REFINISHING WOOD WORK

When the wood is dry, any good furniture stain or paint of desired color may be applied. Stain may be finished with clear lacquer, varnish or shellac, or the two processes may be combined in a colored clear shellac, if a light-colored finish is desired.

Each process should be followed by a drying period of about twenty-four hours.

One coat of paint and a good enamel is sufficient to give a service-able painted finish.

22


T Table Setting and Service

"^HE best appetizer in the world is an attractive table. Be the fare ever so simple, the appointments ever so modest, i t is always possible to make or mar the effects of good cooking b y the way in

which a meal is served. N o amount of fussing is necessary to give a table that dainty well-

set look which is in itself an invitation. The charm lies in the even placing and spacing of the silver, a spotless cover, and thought for a bit of color.

This last note, though having nothing to do with the actual rules of table-setting, is b y no means an unimportant consideration. Of late, experiments carried on by dietetic experts have proved conclusively that not only appetite, but the state of mind which makes for good digestion, are much affected by color.

Nowadays it is easy and inexpensive to procure gaily-colored china, glassware and table linen, and to work out combinations of such refreshing and simple charm that every meal takes on a "party" air.

Table Cloths Of course, the use of the all-over damask table cloth can never

be improved upon for formal occasions, though the snowy white of the old-fashioned cloth is being varied with light colors and colored sprays of flowers on white backgrounds. The large cloth for the formal dinner table still holds its own, though quite correctly varied with fine, heavy embroidered and lace-inset linens. Even the centre nmnM- and place squares, if of fine material and workmanship, are now a c c e p t ^ as adjuncts of the formal meal.

But for every-day use, the easily laundered runners and squares with their small napkins to match, are both practical and attractive.

T A B L E C L O T H S

Care should always be taken in table-laying, that the table itself L A Y I N G be protected. The all-over cloth requires an all-over pad or felt; the C L O T H doiiy or place covers an individual asbestos pad.

The laying of silver is governed by one very simple rule—remember to place the cutlery/rom the outside in, in order of the use of each piece. Thus, on the right, the soup spoon, being used for the first course, comes on the outside; next the fish knife, if used, last the steel-bladed knives laid with the sharp edge in.

On the left, the fish fork, if used, is on the outside; next the dinner fork; last the salad fork. If an oyster fork is used, it is laid not with the other forks, but with the knives and soup spoon on the outside at the right.

L A Y I N G S I L V E R

23


No matter how your courses may run, the simple axiom of "from the outside in" will guide you.

According to the English form, a dessert spoon and fork are placed lengthwise above the plate at the time of setting the table. Another equally correct and more effective dessert service, especially for fruit, however, is the placing of dessert spoon and fork, or fruit knife, on the dessert plate m t h the finger bowl. The small plate, with finger bowl on a doily and silver on either side, is placed at each cover. The diner sets the finger bowl on the doily at the left above his plate, and places the silver at right and left of his cover.

GLASSES Glasses are placed above the knife.

N A P K I N S Napkins are laid at the left beside the forks, or may appear atop the service plate. A small roll or thick square cubes of bread may be placed inside the napkin.

Never torture napkins into " fancy" shapes. They may be laid square and flat, with the open side in and the roll peeping from inside, or folded lengthwise around the roll.

Service Plates The use of a "service" plate has become custom as much for pur-

poses of convenience as of form. When the formal table is set, it is now the best usage to have one at each cover. On this the soup plate is set.

Usually both are removed after the soup course, to be replaced by the dinner plate, but if an entree is served, such as fish, it may be left on the table, until this course is over. It is optional, and depends much upon the size and nature of the china used.

The formal theory of the service plate is that the diner may never be left with an empty cover before him; its practical significance is that it gives a catching surface for smaller or deeper dishes set upon it. In any event, a service plate should not remain after the entree.

Plates imder fruit cocktails, sherbet glasses or bouillon saucers are customary, even at the informal meal, because they are sensible. Sherbet glasses should always have a small glass plate or saucer of their own.

SOUP, E T C . Soup, hoTS d'oeuvres or canapes should not appear at each place until the diners are seated. On the other hand a fruit cocktail, melon, grapefruit or orange, may. (The fruit spoon is frequently placed on the saucCT which holds the course, as is often the case with long spoons used for frozen desserts in glasses).

B U T T E R Butter plates and knives are used only at an informal meal, such as breakfast, home luncheon, or any family meal. It is not correct to serve butter at all at a formal meal—whether luncheon or dinner.

24

• T H E M O D E R N H O U S E K E E P E R S ' G U I P E •

A low centre decoration of flowers flanked by harmonizing candles, is the most usual table decoration. A bowl equipped with a flower holder is the most effective. Never have yoxu- flowers or your container too high. Try to avoid flowers with too heavy an odor.

One small bud vase for the breakfast or tea table is appropriate and dainty.

Of late, very lovely crystal and shell trees and separate flowers made of crystal, shell and wax have come into vogue for formal decora-tion, and although fine examples are expensive, very charming pieces may sometimes be picked up at a modest price.

A table should never be so loaded down with decoration that its first office, that of comfortable dining space, be overlooked"or interfered with.

Too many flowers and gimcracks are less to be desired than no decoration at all. Individual nut dishes are permissible at a formal meal, but individual salt cellars are not in good taste. The open salt cellar is the best form. A salt shaker is properly used only on informal occasions.

Table Service A very small percentage of homes customarily have maid service

with the meal—less than ten per cent, to be explicit—but there are times when maid service is required, and every housekeeper should have at her fingertips the niceties of waiting in order to instruct the waitress on these occasions.

A good general plan to remember is to "pass at the left; place and take at the right." Thus, vegetables in dishes accompanied by serving fork and spoon, and all dishes which are handed about by the waitress, are offered at the left hand side.

Plates returning from the carver or server are placed from the right hand side. Glasses are filled from the right. Plates are removed from the right. Crumbing, is done from the left.

Dishes should never be "stacked" by the waitress when they are taken from the table. Two plates may be carried away at a time.

Soup may be served from a tureen at the table or carried in plates from the kitchen. Meat may be carved and served at the table by the host or hostess, or carved in the kitchen and passed on a platter.

Order of service is first to the hostess, and thence to her right, around the table.

There is a convention which indicates the serving of the women guests first, beginning either with the eldest matron, or the guest of honor, and ending with the hostess, but it is apt to be very confusing except to a very experienced waitress, and usually requires coaching or prompting by the hostess. The first form mentioned is perfectly correct and far simpler.

T A B L E D E C O R A T I O N

O V E R . D E C O R A T I O N

P L A C I N G A N D REMOVING

ORDER OF S E R V I C E

25


Coffee or tea is poured and served by the hostess, a spoon being placed on each saucer. In the case of coffee after dinner, this may be served either at the table or in the drawing room afterwards.

MAIDLESS The maid less meal is made smooth by forethought. A tea wagon or MEALS shelved table on wheels is a great convenience in clearing dishes, and

providing fresh dishes and cutlery for the courses as they appear. It should be placed at the hostess' right.

Tea wagons are now equipped with electric attachments so that food and plates may be kept warm in a warming cupboard, and electric percolators, toasters or waffle irons attached.

Serving dishes with hot water bases keep meat and vegetables hot for second servings.

SERVING The helping of plates is made easier if meat, dressings, and gravies DISHES are served at one end, vegetables at the other. Time and passing of

plates is saved if one hot serving plate is placed at the vegetable server's place at the beginning of the, meal, to be helped at the same time as the first meat plate at the other end.

In this fashion two plates are in rotation instead of One, and each server never has to wait for the other.

The great point to be observed in the conducting of a maidless meal is ease of manipulation, for confusion and jumping up from the table spell discomfort for all concerned.

THE FORMAL TABLE

26


T Meats

^HE preparation of meats is gauged by the quality. Tender cuts are broiled or roasted, those of coarser grain are equaUy deliciously prepared by long cooking, as described below in pot-roasts, boiled

dinners, stews, and braised dishes. These less expensive coarser types are often richer in flavor than the tenderer cuts of less substance, and their merits can be fully appreciated by good cookery.

The most scientific and at the same time delicious method of pre-paring oven roasts of all kinds is in the covered roaster. This not only protects the meat from the flames, removing danger of scorching and even frequent conflagrations from grease, but by condensing the steam, which naturally rises from the heating meat, a ^ as a baster.

Do not cover a roast until it has been seared. This quick, strenuous heating, temperature for which is given below, seals the meat and prevents the loss of juices. It also gives it the attractive browned appearance which m ^ e s a roast so appetizing. Some cooks flour a roast slightly before placing in the oven, but salting or seasoning should never be don6 until toward the very end of cooking. Salt has a tendency to draw out the juices. Also be careful in placing a roast in the pan, not to prick the meat itself with the prongs of a fork or a skewer. This will allow the escape of juices. Insert fork, knife or skewer into the fatty portion.

For pot-roasting, a heavy iron pot is an admirable utensil. This type of pot is almost a stove in itself, for it holds simmering tempera-ture with a very small amount of fuel after once becoming thoroughly heated. It is aUo recommended for boiling meats, stews and soups for the same reason, for all these require long, slow cooking.

Many cuts of meat which would be neither palatable nor digestible cooked in most ways, if simmered long and gently, will equal much more expensive portions in flavor and digestibility.

The flavor and color of a stew are sometimes improved if the meat is first fried enough to sear the surface somewhat, to brown it and keep in some of the juices. Also, it is often advisable to boil vegetables— especially if they are old and hard—for a time before adding them to the slow-cooking pot.

The idea of simmering or stewing meat is to cook it through very slowly, without entirely sealing the outer surfaces. When we cook a roast, steak, etc., it is our desire to keep all the juices in; we therefore sear the outside quickly, making a case around the juices.

When we make a stew, on the other hand, the liquor is an important part of the stew and every bit of nourishment that is extracted is pre-served. We desire to attain quite a different result with the meat in each case and therefore proceed in quite different ways.

The long-continued moderate heat of the simmering process, brings the tougher fibre of the cheaper cuts and the jellying material

S T E W I N G

27


so plentiful in such parte as the knuckles, feet, etc., into very palatable condition; quick cooking would destroy much of the nutritive value and make the meat tough, hard and tasteless.

There is great economy in proper simmering and stewing. Little heat (and, therefore, little actual fuel) is required to keep the pot simmering. There is no waste; all the good of the meat used is saved, even though dissolved or held in suspension in the liquid.

ROASTING The fine old method of roasting meats on the spit before the open fires gave wonderful results but is too wasteful of fuel to be approved of in these days.

In roasting meat, the object is the same as in broiling it—to close the surface and so imprison the juices.* This means exposure to great heat just at first, but, as soon as the surfaces are seared, the oven should be cooled quite considerably.

Covered Roasters Best All jointe, or a large bird, are best cooked in the covered roasting

pan to prevent undue drying of the outside. "The larger the joint, the more moderate the oven" is a good general rule to follow.

Long, slow cooking will give the desired result—a nice casing of browned meat around the outside, with tender inner fibres and the inside meat just cooked and no more.

I t is a sign of good meat and good roasting to lose comparatively little by shrinkage. I t is more difficult to cook a small joint well than a large one, as there is greater danger of the fibre becoming hard and separating into bundles that are difficult to chew, hard to digest and which lack flavor and juiciness.

BRAISING Braising is a combination of roasting and stewing. It is a very good method to employ where the flavor of roasted meat is desired, but the cut is not very tender.

A quantity of vegetables should be put in a covered roaster large enough to take the meat. A little stock—just enough to prevent sticking to the pan, but not enough to cover tnem—is added, and the me^t placed on the vegetables. The meat will absorb the flavor of the vege-tables during a long pa-iod of slow cooking in the steam, which is confined by a close-fitting cover. When quite tender, the meat is removed and put into a quick oven to brown. The vegetables are served with it.

BROILING A tender steak, chop or cutlet is served at its very best if it is broiled directly over or under the open beat. The quick action of the direct open heat sears the outer surfaces almost immediately. Practically none of the juice from the lean meat escapes, although some of the fat will be melted. The entire nutriment is sealed up in the meat and the

28


flavor, if it is good meat to begin with, is something that cannot be improved upon.

The method of broiling is the same for steaks, chops, bacon, fowl, etc. The broiling iron is made hot and its bars well greased. The meat is placed on it and exposed quite.close to the direct heat but not near enough to burn. Just as soon as one side is seared, turn the meat and keep tiu-ning it very frequently, until cooked through.

This turning is important because all surfaces must be closed as quickly as possible in order to seal in all the juices. A knife or spoon should be used to turn the meat, or a fork thrust into the fat—never pierce the lean meat with the prongs of the fork or much good juice will escape. Pan broiling is an alternative, though the meat will not be so luscious. In this, the pan should be lightly greased.

There is much to be said for frying that is properly done. It makes some very savory dishes, and, if not abused, has many uses in cookery.

Foods that are fried in fat of the right temperature and dealt with throughout the process in just the right manner will not absorb the fat and so become indigestible. The chief trouble lies in the fact that the fat is too o f t« i allowed to penetrate food, in which cases the results to digestions are very serious.

FRYING

Saut^ing is the most common division of frying. The pan is made hot and the food is cooked in shallow fat. Saut^ing should be done quickly, the food being turned over lightly and often.

SAUTEING

Thfe much more scientific and satisfactory method of really frying foods which lend themselves to this treatment, however, is to drop them into deep fat which has been heated to the right degree of temperature.

The best vessel to use is a deep kettle that is not too broad and it will be found a great convenience to have a frying basket (wire mesh basket with a handle over the top.)

The basket is filled with the rissoles, fish-cakes, or whatever is to be fried and the whole is lowered into the hot fat. When cooked, it is only necessary to lift out the basket and drain. Much time, trouble and burning of food and fingers is thus saved.

The temperature to which various cooking fats and oils may be heated varies considerably. The average temperature is about 365*.

On the point of economy, deep frying is the one method of frying that commends itself. Careful tests have shown that the same quantity of food uses up much more fat if it is sauted than if it is immersed in deep fat. It is best to use plenty of fat—quite enough to cover whatever is in the frying basket or dropped into the pot—because in that case the food will not need to be turned.

When cooking is completed, the fat can be cleared by dropping into it a few slices of raw potato (which will collect the burnt particles in the fat) and then straining it off very carefully for use again. There are very few things except fish that will leave their flavor in the fat.

DEEP FRYING

29


Beef Beef is the most commonly used of all the meats, providing as it

does both choice and more inexpensive cuts and a wide range of prep-aration possibilities. In addition to the regular cuts of meat there are many special parts which, though in some cases not so delicate as in the calf or veal, are nevertheless wholesome and, when properly pre-pared, make excellent dishes.

POINTS IN SELECTING BEEF

SIRLOIN

In buying beef look for dark red meat veined with threads of fat. The fat or suet should be creamy white (not yellow), firm and dry. Good beef is firm and resilient to the touch, and will barely dampen the finger. Wet, flabby, pale, purplish or very lean meat is defective.

Frozen meat is always overmoist.

General Instructions for Roasting Sear over direct heat or in a very hot oven (530® F.) for fifteen

minutes and continue in hot oven (440°) fiftwn minutes to the pound if desired rare; twenty if desired well done. Allow fifteen minutes extra for the meat to become heated.

Best for large family roast.

30

I D U I l a o i

The Cuts of Meat

A special section i l l u s t r a t i n g the principal cuts of Beef, Veal, Lamb

and Pork.

I • • I I d o I

THE CUTS OF BEEF

THE CUTS OF VEAL

THE CUTS OF PORK

THE CUTS OF LAMB '


Has tenderloin or undercut. Is highest priced and most choice of all P O R T E R -roast cuts. HOUSE

First cut from ribs nearest loin. P R I M E R I B

Three additional cuts from the ribs provide excellent roasts. R I B ROAST

Rib roast left in the lower portion of carcass, when divided. Remove WING ROAST layer of gristle jus t under outer skin before serving.

A roast from which the bone has been removed and the meat rolled. B O N E D A N D Use bone removed for soup stock. ROLLED

Braise two to three hours in moderate oven (330°). Add one SHORT R I B S cup hot water and cover tightly.

Excellent for ragout with vegetables.

Pot roast. Add one cup hot water. At least thirty minutes to pound R U M P below boiling point (simmering).

Also good braised.

Pot roast. Add one cup hot water. At least thirty minutes to R O U N D pound below boiling point (simmering).

Pot roast. Add one cup hot water. At least thir ty minutes to C H U C K pound below boiling point (simmering).

Pot roast. Add one cup hot water. At least thir ty minutes to B R I S K E T pound below boiling point (simmering).

Good boiled and served with horseradish in boiled dinner.

Pot roast. Add one cup hot water. At least thir ty minutes to SHOULDER pound below boiling point (simmering).

Cooking Beef Steaks Broil under or over heat, or in pan. One inch thick, seven to twelve SIRLOIN

minutes; one and a half inches thick, ten to fifteen minutes. Do not season until nearly cooked. Best choice for large family steak.

Broil under or ov«r heat, or in pan. One inch thick, seven to PORTER-twelve minutes; one and a half inches thick, ten to fifteen minutes. HOUSE, Do not season until nearly cooked. T-BONE,

The most choice steaks, having a tenderloin or undercut portion. P I N BONE

Beaten with flour, salt ar:d pepper and pan-broiled ten to fifteen TOP R O U N D minutes. Ask for cuts near tho top of the leg.

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ROUND

CLUB

Hamburger steak. Broil ten minutes. Have ground with quarter pound pork to pound of steak.

Broil seven to twelve minutes. Individual steaks.

FLANK

NECK SHANK SHOULDER

SHOULDER BEEF AND KIDNEY PIE

Stuffed, rolled and tied as mock duck. Roast twenty minutes to pound.

Requires considerable basting. Serve with rich gravy.

Boiled Beef, Stews and Casseroles To stew—Cut into one and a half inch squares, sear, and put on

in hot water and cook three hours, adding vegetables in order of cooking required. Turnips first, potatoes and carrots second, onions last.

Always thicken gravy slightly toward last. Serve with steamed dumplings.

Cut beef and well-washed kidney into squares and sear. Pour over hot water and make good gravy thickening with browned flour. Place in deep baking dish, cover and braise in oven. Just before thoroughly cooked, cover baking dish with heavy pie crust, almost the consistency of biscuit dough. Prick to allow escape of steam, or place steam cup in centre of dish. Brown crust and serve.

SHOULDER This preparation is particularly useful when meat has to cook in an BEEF EN unwatched oven. Cut meat up and brown. Place in casserole with CASSEROLE vegetables such as onions and carrots. Add one cup hot water. Cover

and allow to heat thoroughly; then reduce heat entirely. In three hours, meat and vegetables will be thoroughly cooked. Make rich brown gravy and serve with steamed dumplings.

SHOULDER Sear and place whole cut in hot water to cook for two to three BOILED BEEF hours, well seasoned with' salt, peppercorns, one bay leaf and leeks.

Serve with horseradish. A piece of lean salt pork may be added and sliced with the beef.

Vegetables such as carrots, onions and potatoes may be cooked in the same water and served around the meat.

KIDNFYS Soak, split and broil with bacon or serve with Spanish sauce (tomato, onion and green pepper,) on toast. Also good in stew. (See recipes.) Kidney suet is the most choice.

BRAINS In croquettes or fried with breadcnmibs. Excellent scrambled with egg.

Be sure to soak thoroughly in salt water and remove membranes and blood ve&--els.

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Stuffed and baked. (See recipes.)

Broiled in cracker dust and butter, or fried in batter. Stewed with onions.

Soak for an hour in water, cleanse and parboil. May then be creamed, braised or broiled.

Braise with vegetables for ragout or use for soup.

This is dried and smoked beef, thinly cut. Serve in cream sauce or gravy.

May be served on toast.

Veal Veal may be very delicious meat, but if not correctly butchered

or cooked, very indigestible—and to some persons, positively poisonous. The chief danger from veal is that it is sometimes killed too young. Usually the immature meat has an almost greenish or bluish color; and is inclined to be watery. The slightly older, or milk-fed calf, whose meat is pink, furnishes a good quality of veal, that when cooked is almost like chicken. The "heavy calf" is almost an adult. The flesh is heavier, darker and firmer, though not always coarser, and the carcass furnishes sizable roasts and cutlets.

H E A R T

T R I P E

SWEET-B R E A D S

OX T A I L

C H I P P E D B E E F

33


LOIN

RIB

RUMP

LEG JOINT

SHOULDER

BREAST

Veal need not be indigestible if it is thoroughly cooked, carved or cut across the grain, and thoroughly masticated. I t is inclined to be a stringy meat, and so requires considerable breaking down and cutting by the teeth before digestion can take place. It is also a meat without much fat, and so also requires good rich brown gravies and sufficient larding to make it ba lanc^ and palatable.

Cooking Veal Roasted well done. (25 mins. per lb. See General Roasting Direc-

tions beginning of chapter on Berf.)

Roasted well done. (See General Roasting Directions beginning of chapter on Beef.)

Roasted well done. (See General Roasting Directions beginning of chapter on Beef.)

Roasted well done or braised. Upper part of the leg, very choice.

Stuffed and roasted, well done.

Stuffed and roasted, well done.

Chops LOIN Broiled Or breaded and fried.

SHOULDER Broiled or breaded and fried.

RIB Broiled or breaded and fried.

CUTLET FROM UPPER and simmered. PART OF LEG OR "ROUND"

Cooking Cutlets Breaded and broiled in pan or oven. Beaten with flour, seared

CUTLET FROM SHOULDER

NECK

SHANK

BREAST

Floured, seared and simmered.

Stews and Braised Cuts Stewed, meat pie, fricass^.

Stewed for stock and jelly.

Braised or stewed.

M


Special Parts Famous for jelly. Use for jellied bouillon or any pressed meat.

As for beef. Much more delicate than the beef.




Lamb and Mutton Mutton is the name for the meat of the full-grown sheep. It is

nutritious and highly-flavored, ranking with beef in nutritive value and digestibility.

Lamb is the meat of the immature sheep, more delicate, but less nutritious than mutton. It may be eaten more shortly after killing than mutton, which must be hung for at least two, preferably three weeks. In the early spring, one gets the green or "spring Iamb" that is such a delicacy. The best or natural buying season is in March.

Mutton may be very deliciously prepared as well as lamb, and the strong flavor that many object to in it may be overcome to a great extent, by removing the skin and trimming off extra fat. Mutton fat can never be used as drippings because of this strong flavor.

In distinguishing lamb from mutton, notice the softer bones, finer grain and lighter color of the former. Lamb is very perishable and if to be kept for any length of time should be parboiled or partially cooked.

Roasts Roast well done (20 mins. per lb.) or braise. (See General Roasting

Directions, beginning of Chapter on Beef.) All lamb or mutton roasts may be served with mint sauce or jelly LEG

and currant jelly. The leg may be boiled and served with caper sauce.

HEAD AND FEET

BRAINS

LIVER

KIDNEYS

SWEETBREADS

Stuff and roast well done. May be boned and stuffed for braising.

SHOULDER

The saddle is only purchased for a very large dinner or banquet. SADDLE

Variation of rib roast. Roast well done. CROWN

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Stews and Cheaper Cuts N E C K Stew with vegetables. Cook en casserole or in pot pie. Serve with

dumplings. Use for soups, stock and broth.

C H U C K Stew with vegetables. Cook en casserole or in pot pie. Serve with dumplings.

Use for soups, stock and broth.

B K E A S T Stew with vegetables. Cook en casserole or in pot pie. Serve with dumplings.


^'LANK Stew with vegetables. Cook en casserole or in pot pie. Serve with dumplings.


S H A N K Stew with vegetables. Cook en casserole or in pot pie. Serve with dumplings.


LOIN Chops

Broil. Most choice cuts. Correspond to porterhouse cut in beef.

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Broil. May be "Frenched" or trimmed of fat along the bone.

Excellent braised with vegetables or en casserole. A bony cut, not suitable for broiling.

Special Parts Broil with bacon. Serve on toast.

RIB

SHOULDER

KIDNEYS

Pork Pork is divided into two sorts of meat, fresh and cured. It furnishes

excellent cold-weather roasts and small cUts in the fresh meat, and cured, is a year-round standby both hot and cold.

Pork should have clean, white fat, and the meat, if fresh, should be pink; if cured, brownish ingrained with fat. Choose hams with a small bone.

Roasts Roast well done. (25 mins. per lb. See General Roasting Direc- YOUNG

tions beginning of chapter on Beef.) SUCKING Apple sauce is the regular accompaniment of roast pork. Young PIG

pig must be well larded and trussed.

Roast well done. Most economical roast.

Stuff with onion or bread crumb and onion, and roast.

Roast well done. Choicest roasting cut.

Stuff and roast well done, or broil.

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LEG

SHOULDER

LOIN

SPARE RIBS


LOIN CHOPS TENDERLOIN

HOCK

KNUCKLES AND FEET

SALT PORK

HAM

SHOULDER "COTTAGE HAM"

B A C O N -BACK AND SIDE

SAUSAGE

HEAD

CHEEK

F E E T

LARD

Chops and Broiling Pieces Broil. Stuff and roast well done or broil.

Boiled Pieces Boiled and served hot or cold.

Traditional, boiled with sauerkraut.

Boiled with "boiled dinner" or served cold with other cold cuts. Also used with baked beans'(See recipes).

Cured Pork Boiled and baked; served hot and cold. Bought in slices and

broiled (See recipes).

Prepare as for baked ham (See recipes).

Broiled. Side bacon is often boiled with vegetables and served hot or cold.

Fried, either in cases or in cakes.

Special Parts Clean carefully and use with feet to make head cheese.

Use cured meat and boil for cold cuts.

Pickled in brine, they make a. traditional accompaniment for sauerkraut.

Use for shortening and frymg.

S8

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