ReadNow clip - 140138583 - Resplendent Ceylon

EXTRAORDINARYEXPERIENCESTHE ULTIMATE WORLDWIDE WISH-LIST

OUR TOP

TRAVEL ADVEEY HELEN ANDERSON, MARK CHiPPERFIELD. ANTHONY DENNIS KENDALL HILL, KATRINA LOBLEY. EMMA VENTURA

NATURE LOVER, HEDONIST,

ADRENALIN JUNKIE. CULTURE

VULTURE, OR ALL OF THE ABOVE

- WHOEVER YOU ARE, YOU'LL

FIND PLENTY OF BUCKET-LIST

IDEAS HERE. SOME OF OUR MOST

TOURIST-TRAPAVOIDING. GLOBE-

TROTTING WRITERS SHARE THEIR

FAVOURITE DESTINATIONS.

IL RFS

THE TRAVEL ISSUE COVER STORY COMPILED EN ANTHONY DENNIS

Media Monitors Client ServiceCentre 1300 880 082

Copyright Agency Ltd (CAL)licenced copy

The Saturday Age, Melbourne31 Mar 2012

Good Weekend Magazine, page 1 - 11,035.47 cm²Capital City Daily - circulation 265,704 (-----S-)

ID 140138583 BRIEF DILMAH INDEX 1 PAGE1 of 41

1 AFRICAWILDLIFETHE EXPERIENCE Sleep with hippos andbathe with mongooses in Kenya's Masai Mara.

A long, theatrical snigger hangs in the air,followed by a snort and a sharp riposte. Allnight this hippo banter continues, metresaway, echoing off the banks of a horseshoebend in the Talek River. The Masai MaraNational Reserve is famous for the reliableabundance and diversity of wildlife seenon safari drives, and staying in an unfencedcamp in the heart of the park means,thrillingly, there is only well-zipperedcanvas between you and the beasts. HA

DREAM TO REALITY Emirates (emirates.com/au)flies from Australia to Nairobi via Dubai. WildlifeSafari (www.wildlifesafari.com.au) includes theMara Explorer Camp on its customised luxurysafari itineraries.

2 MIDDLE EASTOUTDOORSTHE EXPERIENCE Sail a dhow on theMusandam Peninsula, Oman.

In all the turmoil of the Arab Spring, oneMiddle Eastern sultanate has maintained itscool. Peaceful, breathtaking Oman moves atthe sort of relaxed pace you'd expect from acountry blessed with generous oil and naturalgas reserves and a desolate, captivating beauty.Channel Oman's laid-back rhythm with a dhowtrip on the sunbaked Musandam Peninsula,where the stark Hajar Mountains fall sheerinto the Arabian Sea and stunning submarineworlds unfold beneath the surface. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Emirates (emirates.com/au)and Etihad (etihadairways.com) fly from Australiato the United Arab Emirates with connections toOman. More information: omantourism.gov.om.

3 EUROPEINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Splurge on a meal atAlain Ducasse's Eiffel Tower restaurant.

The only identifiable downside of dininghalfway up the Eiffel Tower at the posh LeJules Verne Restaurant (aside from the heftybill) is that you're effectively denied a full-frontal look at the famed structure itself. Butthe view of Paris, delightfully interrupted bythe milk-chocolate-coloured girders of thetower, is to dine for. A reservation here includesnot just the master chef's renowned killercuisine, albeit in a slightly more touristic vein,but some welcome queue-jumping: therestaurant's own dedicated elevator, which goesstraight up one of the tower's shapely legs,conveys diners directly to the second level. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeair.com) flies from Australia to Parisvia Singapore. Le Jules Verne Restaurant:restaurants-toureiffel.com.

4 PACIFICJOURNEYTHE EXPERIENCE Drive the coast roads ofthe Big Island, Hawaii.

There are two sensational driving routes outof Hilo, the sleepy main settlement on theBig Island. Highway 130 leads to the World

Heritage-listed Hawaii Volcanoes National Parkwhere visitors can witness Earth's creation asred-hot lava from the active Kilauea volcanoadds an extra 16 hectares to the island'ssurface area each year. Alternatively, take theHamakua Coast road north-west for cinematicseafronts, farmers' markets, bohemian villagesand the cowboy town of Waimea. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Hawaiian Airlines(hawaiianair.com) flies from Sydney to Honoluluand on to Hilo. More information: gohawaii.com.

5 ASIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Climb the startling rockfortress of Sigiriya in Sri Lanka.

Most of the island's eight UNESCO WorldHeritage sites are clustered in this dry centralzone, where wild elephants roam and ancientkings built marvellous cities. Among the most






66Staying in anunfenced campin the heart ofthe park means.thrillingly, thereis only wel--zippered canvasbetween you andthe beasts. 91

(above) a Masai warriorsurveys his starklybeautiful homeland.






startling of these ruins is Sigiriya, a pleasurepalace built improbably atop a volcanic plug.It's best known for its 1500-year-old cliff-facefrescoes of spectacularly well-endowed,wasp-waisted women, thought to be a rebelking's concubines or celestial goddesses.After an eyeful, pass between the monumentalstone paws of a lion and climb another 1682steps to a throne with views of a long-gonekingdom. HA

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeaircom) flies from Australia toColombo via Singapore. Banyan Lanka Tours(banyanlanka.com) arranges customisedluxury itineraries.

6 SOUTH AMERICAADVENTURETHE EXPERIENCE Get face to face withEaster Island's stone sentinels.

Famed for its towering stone sculptures,Easter Island (Rapa Nui) is a place of mysteryand rare physical beauty that's also a magnetfor hikers and scuba divers. Successive wavesof colonisers have each left their mark onthis remote Pacific island, but it is the giantsculptures, or moth, that dominate thevisitor's imagination. Mc

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com) andLAN (lan.com) fly from Australia to Santiago,Chile. Easter Island, a special territory ofChile, is 3700km from South America and canbe reached via LAN, which flies direct fromSantiago. Stay at Posada de Mike Rapu (seeexplora.com), a contemporary lodge witha good program of guided excursions.

7 EUROPECULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Take in some of thefinest ballet you'll ever see at Moscow'smagnificently restored Bolshoi Theatre.

It boasts the world's most bolshie, ineptushers and crankiest, most curt cloakroomattendants, and it's wickedly expensive.Fortunately, it's the famed troupe's dancerswho are the stellar attraction, and a visit toMoscow is positively incomplete withoutattending a performance of the Bolshoi Ballet.This is especially the case since late last year,when the company reopened its stupendous1720-seat grand theatre - a 19th-centuryMoscow landmark in its own right, andnow Putin's new pride and joy - after aninterminable and controversial restoration. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeaircom) flies from Australia toMoscow via Singapore. Bolshoi Ballet:bolshoi.ru/en.

8 AFRICAADVENTURETHE EXPERIENCE Explore Morocco'sspectacular Atlas Mountains.

The snow-capped Atlas Mountains loom overMarrakech and the harsh, khaki-coloureddesert that surrounds this colourful medievalcity. Rising to a height of 4167 metres, themagnificent mountains separate the Atlanticcoast from the Sahara Desert. While mostvisitors are content to spend their timeexploring the souks and crumbling palaces ofMarrakech, a hiking trip through the AtlasMountains is a special joy - especially if youare lucky enough to walk with a local Berberguide who takes you to his aunt's house formint tea and flatbread dipped in wild honey.Despite their proximity to Marrakech, themountain villages seem to belong to anotherage as bearded men haggle in colourfulBerber markets and ancient mud-walled townscling to the sides of high, treeless ravines.There are few roads - old women carry hugestacks of firewood on their shoulders, villageboys drive sheep across fast-flowing mountainstreams. But even in this harsh wilderness, it'sstill possible to find a French-style aubergewhere you can enjoy a dish of grilled lamb,a fresh salad and a glass of chilled Moroccanrose on the terrace. Multi-day treks with localguides, cooks and mules are available, asare expeditions on horseback. Overnightaccommodation is in Berber-style tents or localguesthouses. Mc

DREAM TO REALITY Etihad (etihadairways.corn) and Emirates (emirates.com/au) flyfrom Australia, via Abu Dhabi and Dubairespectively, to Casablanca, with connectionsto Marrakech. Morocco By Prior Arrangement(moroccobypriorarrangement.net) can arrangeAtlas Mountains guided walking trips.

10 AFRICAHERITAGETHE EXPERIENCE Be amazed by the historicrock churches of Ethiopia.

Local legend has it that the ii marvellousmonolith churches of Lalibela in northernEthiopia were carved from bedrock by humansduring the day and by angels at night. Laid outin the 12th century as a "New Jerusalem", themasterpiece of this holy assembly is BeteGiyorgis, which was hewn from stone in theshape of the St George's cross and built in asingle day, apparently, because on this occasionman and angel worked side by side. The storiescan seem far-fetched but the experience isgenuine; inside these World Heritage-listed






churches, Coptic Christians still worshipas they did in the first millennium - clad inwhite robes, prostrate in prayer and shroudedin incense. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Emirates (emirates.com/au) flies to Addis Ababa via Dubai; EthiopianAirlines (ethiopianairlines.com) offers an air passthat includes flights to all the country's majorhistorical sites at Lake Tana, Gonder, Aksum andLalibela. More information: tourismethiopia.org.

11 NORTH AMERICAURBANTHE EXPERIENCE Lift your spirits at oneof the world's most unusual parks.

Grab a coffee and a copy of The New Yorkerand make like a local by hanging out on theHigh Line - an elevated park fashioned froman abandoned 1930s freight rail line that'srevitalised Manhattan's Meatpacking District.The first section opened in 2009, another10 blocks were added last year and there'slobbying to extend the 2.2-kilometre-longpark further. The hip design includes asunbathing lawn, wildflower field andnative grasses, along with the occasionalart installation. KL

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com)flies from Australia to New York City via LosAngeles. Stay at The Standard (standardhotels.com), which straddles the park. Moreinformation: thehighline.org.

4 6Grab a coffee, acopy of The NewYorker and makelike a local byhanging out ontFe High Line.

99

111.141T TO LAST,ktop left) Easter Island'sfamous moth statues,(above) New York's HighLine aerial park.

9 FREQUENT FLYEREUROPEMaeva O'MearaGourmet Safaris eh rec tor_

THE PLACE Sardinia. Italy,

THE EXPERIENCE Sardinia'scapital, CoglItari. is on-a o-rthe great unexpected finch.Evorywhore you Ida there arelovely palm trees. cobblestone

streets, winding alleyways and great littleplace!. where you can 5tOp and eat 4nd hay._a glass of tOmothing, They do a rod nnulletroe celled bottarga, whith is an inten5e,pressed, 5alty. Wily product that's much-prized ybu grate it over 5peghetti so youget this ioyely seafoody flavour.

DETAILS arit6h Airways (britial-as4rwayt.c.cwri)Fres from Australis to. London with tionsto Rome. Alitalia (alitalittorn) Hies daily frownRome to Cagliari in ra minute's_ Miaby Lines(mobylines,com) ooseatra the Faitest ferry(four hours, 45 minutes) between Civitevecchianear ROM, to Mi.. Sardinia. Kt.






12 EUROPEJOURNEYTHE EXPERIENCE Cruise the beautifulStockholm archipelago and stay at the samehotel as Nobel laureates.

The five-star, 345-room Grand Hotel Stockholm,the preferred accommodation of Nobellaureates when in the Swedish capital to collecttheir citations, serves as the perfect base fromwhich to explore the enormous Stockholmarchipelago. The hotel, which is located on oneof Stockholm's 14 city islands, is next to themultitude of wharves from which ferries departto the scantily populated but stunninglybeautiful isles of the archipelago, a haven forsun- and fun-loving locals in summer. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Emirates (emirates.com/au) flies from Australia to Copenhagen via Dubai.SAS Scandinavian Airlines (flysas.com) connectsregularly between Stockholm and Copenhagen.The Grand Hotel: grandhotel.se/en.

13 ASIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Visit the greatest museumof Chinese antiquities.

Taipei's extraordinary National Palace Museumeclipses anything on the mainland, largely byvirtue of modern Sino history, and much to thechagrin of the mainland Chinese. Its contents -more than 600,000 pieces - were smuggled

66Turn keeper fora morning aridex pa ri6nce thethrifl of poppingfood straightinto a panda'&waiting mouth.

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across the Taiwan Straits by Chiang Kai-shek andhis Nationalist troops as they fled Mao Zedong'svictorious Communists in 1949. The museum'sexquisite treasures, including the pricelessJadeite Cabbage with Insects, encompass theentire breadth of China's epic history. Nowonder mainlanders, courtesy of relaxed travelregulations, are flocking to Taipei. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Taiwan's China Airlines(china-airlines.com.au) flies directly from Australiato Taipei. National Palace Museum: www.npm.gov.tw. Stay at Les Suites Taipei (lessuiteshotels.com).More information: taiwantourism.org.

14 ASIAISLANDSTHE EXPERIENCE Chill out on China's onlytropical island.

China's southernmost province, Hainan Island,is often described as "the next Hawaii" becauseof its palm-fringed beaches and tropical climate.The best beach resorts are in the southerndistrict of Sanya. Elsewhere, you'll find ruggedmountains, dense rainforests and ancienttemples. The pace of development is staggering- there are now more than 500 hotels on theisland - but if you want a self-indulgent beachholiday with a difference, look no further. MC

DREAM TO REALITY Hainan Airlines (global.hnair.com) flies from Australia to Hainan viaShenzhen, or fly direct from Hong Kong,Singapore, Shanghai.

w0FIL DS APART:(clockwise from top)elephant riding inThailand; a ghat leadingdown to India's GangesRiver; Wang Wang, oneof Adelaide Zoo's giantpandas; the Fifth FloorChampagne Bar atLondon's Harvey Nichol






15 EUROPEINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Soak up the champagnelifestyle at London's Harvey Nichols.

At this ever-fabulous department store, acomplimentary appointment with a personalshopping assistant makes for thoroughlycivilised retail therapy. A session in theshopping suite, to be booked in advance,includes advice on style and fit, plus access toshowers and refreshments. When you're donetrying on the latest designer collections, theFifth Floor Champagne Bar, with its airy, floraldecor, inspired by the work of Emile Galle, isthe perfect place to break for bubbles. Ev

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com) andBritish Airways (britishairways.com) fly fromAustralia to London. To book a personal shoppingsession, visit harveynichols.com/personal-shopping.

16 ASIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Witness the mesmerisingHindu aarti ceremony on Varanasi's ghats.

On a stifling, humid evening by the Ganges,not far from the haunting, smoky funeral ghats(or stepped hillsides), Varanasi's spectacularlyintense daily fire ceremony can leave thevisitor in a near trance-like state. Far frombeing merely a tourist attraction, this sacred,clamorous event involves young Hindu priestsfacing "Mother Ganga" and waving flamingaarti lamps around a person or a deity inorder to achieve purification. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeair.com) flies from Australia viaSingapore to six Indian destinations, includingMumbai and Delhi, with domestic connections toVaranasi. Stay at the Nadesar Palace (tajhotels.com), a former maharaja's 19th-century residence.

17 AUSTRALIA

NATURETHE EXPERIENCE Hand-feed Adelaide'sgiant pandas.

As breakfasts go, panda cake doesn't lookparticularly appetising. But this steamedconcoction of ground bamboo, corn and ricepowders, soy flour, calcium, sugar and eggslooks just fine to Wang Wang and Funi, themale and female giant pandas resident atAdelaide Zoo. Turn keeper for a morning andexperience the thrill of popping a piece ofcake or slice of apple straight into a panda'swaiting mouth. KL

DREAM TO REALITY Virgin Australia(virginaustralia.com.au) and Qantas (qantas.corn) fly regularly from Sydney and Melbourneto Adelaide. The behind-the-scenes VIP PandaTour runs four mornings a week (zoossa.com.au). Stay at the Clarion Hotel Soho(clarionhotelsoho.com.au).

18 ASIANATURETHE EXPERIENCE Ride an elephant alongthe Thai-Burma-Laos border.

The 65-hectare Anantara Golden Triangle ispart luxury resort, part elephant sanctuary -sort of rough-luxe alternative to the mindlesspampering of most five-star developments.Trainee mahout (elephant driver) programsbring humans and elephants together forgently paced walks and swims in the borderrivers between Thailand, Burma and Laos.When fully booked, the resort has a human-to-elephant ratio of about 160:30 - aboutone pachyderm among five people. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Thai Airways(thaiairways.com.au) has multiple dailyflights from Australia to Bangkok and on toChiang Rai. Stay at Anantara Golden Triangle(goldentriangle.anantara.com). The resort isa 70km drive from the airport.






19 ASIA/EUROPEJOURNEYTHE EXPERIENCE Travel the Silk Route instyle between Beijing and Moscow.

The Golden Eagle pioneered luxury traintravel on the Trans-Siberian, the most epicand challenging rail route on earth. Now theGolden Eagle is forging new levels of comfortin Central Asia, a part of the world not knownto be as smooth as silk for travellers. Book awell-appointed, comfortable compartment onthe Russian-crewed train for a true trip of alifetime between Beijing and Moscow, alongthe Silk Route, via the must-see UNESCOWorld Heritage-listed cities of Samarkand,Bukhara and Khiva. AD

DREAM TO REALITY The Captain's Choice"Silk Road by Private Train" tour (captainschoice.com.au) starts in Beijing and ends in Moscow.Singapore Airlines (singaporeaircom) flies fromAustralia, via Singapore, to Beijing and Moscow.

20 PACIFICINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Imagine you are fabulouslywealthy during a stay on a private island in Fiji.

The northern hemisphere has the Caribbeanbut we have Fiji, a 330-strong archipelago ofequal beauty but far fewer crowds. For theultimate in hedonistic escapes, retreat to a

private island such as Laucala - owned byRed Bull magnate Dietrich Mateschitz, whocharges guests $26,000 a night to stay in hishilltop residence (but only Woo a night tostay in a regular bure) - or the 91-hectareVomo, a postcard-perfect island of sugary sand,translucent waters and gently lapping waves. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Virgin Australia(virginaustralia.com), Jetstar (jetstar.com)and Air Pacific (airpacific.com) fly fromAustralia to Nadi; private air charters transferguests to the islands. More information:Laucala.com; wakaya.com

21 EUROPEINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Tour the amazing marketsand tapas bars of Barcelona.

The Catalan capital is home to some ofEurope's best markets, such as Mercat de IsBoqueria, which is conveniently located justoff touristy Las Ramblas. Here you'll find deliupon deli redolent with hanging legs of ham,or jamon, the cherished Spanish delicacy.Elsewhere, Mercat de Santa Catarina, withits adventurously modern, multi-colouredwave-like roof, is the venue for the coolCuines Santa Catarina, a contemporary tapasbar that serves everything from tuna tatakito Thai chicken curry (and it works). AD

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DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeair.com) has a regular connection toBarcelona from Australia, via Singapore. Mercatde la Bogueria: bogueria.info; Cuines SantaCatarina: www.cuinesantacaterina.com; Travel theWorld (traveltheworld.com.au) and Tauck (tauck.corn) run "Paradors of Northern Spain" grouptours starting in Barcelona and ending in Lisbon.

22 ASIAHERITAGETHE EXPERIENCE Enjoy your own private sliceof the Great Wall of China.

Commune by the Great Wall is the admirablefolly of two of China's most prominent real-estatedevelopers and is nestled in the Walnut Valleyand Rock Valley in Badaling, within easy reachof the Chinese capital. It consists of a series ofunique, cutting-edge, contemporary villasdesigned by leading architects from aroundAsia. You can stay at any of the resort's 42 villas- located within the two valleys - comprisingnearly 200 suites, with a private path that givesaccess to a crumbling, tourist-free (except you)portion of the venerable Great Wall. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeair.com) has regular flights fromAustralia, via Singapore, to Beijing. Communeby the Great Wall (commune.sohochina.com)is a 75-minute drive from the centre of Beijing.

66A privatepath givesaccess to ecrumbling,tourist-free(except you)portion of the,,eierableGreat Wallof China..

LV1lG H I 5 TORY!(clockwise from top left)savouring the markets ofBarcelona: enchantingscenery along the SilkRoute at Khiva; the GreatWall is a destination withineasy reach of Beijing.






23 NEW ZEALANDHISTORYTHE EXPERIENCE Take off to Peter Jackson'spersonal aviation museum.

Without the creative genius of Oscar-winningfilmmaker Peter Jackson - and the Wetastudios - this would be a forgotten aerodromewith a few broken-down old planes. Thanks toJackson, Omaka now has the world's finestcollection of World War I aircraft (most of itoperational) and an astonishing display ofmemorabilia, including field uniforms, raremedals and captured German booty. Weta'srecreation of real-life battle scenes and muddytrenches is inspirational. Mc

DREAM TO REALITY Air New Zealand(airnewzealand.com) flies to Wellington on theNorth Island with domestic connections toBlenheim, located at the north of the SouthIsland. Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre(omaka.org.nz) is 5km from Blenheim.

24 SOUTH AMERICAINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Visit Jose Ignacio, beach-town favourite of the Latin American jet-set.

That ridiculously handsome polo playerfrom the Ralph Lauren ads holidays here, asdoes Shakira (she has a ranch nearby) andfashionable types such as Naomi Campbelland Mario Testino. But outside of peak seasonin January, Jose Ignacio is just a dirt-road beachvillage on Uruguay's laid-back Atlantic coastthat has more in common with 1970s-era ByronBay than St Barts. Accommodation is in chicboutique hotels or B&Bs, and the vibe isbarefoot and beautiful. KR

DREAM TO REALITY The best air connectionsto Punta del Este are from Buenos Aires. Qantas(qantas.com) and LAN (lan.com) fly from Australiato Santiago, Chile, with connections to Montevideo.

25 ASIA

ADVENTURETHE EXPERIENCE Scuba dive in Indonesia.

A voyage on Tiger Blue, a 34-metre gaff.rigged wooden sailing vessel, is like somethingout of Pirates of the Caribbean. The ship is afully equipped "live-aboard", designed forscuba diving in remote parts of the Indonesianarchipelago, such as Sumba, Flores and Banda.A highlight is a visit to see those fearsomereptiles, the Komodo dragons, on the island ofKomodo. Tiger Blue has four cabins, deliciousIndonesian food and a well-trained crew. mc

DREAM TO REALITY Jetstar (jetstar.com) fliesfrom Australia to Denpasar, Bali, frequently. Flydirect from Bali to Bima (Sumbawa), where youcan board Tiger Blue (tigerblue.info).






26 AUSTRALIANATURETHE EXPERIENCE Explore Tasmania'swondrous island sanctuary, Maria Island.

Part convict ruin, part wildlife sanctuaryand part 19th-century industrial curio, MariaIsland is Tasmania's best-kept secret. This smallisland off Tassie's east coast north of Hobartteems with possums, sea eagles, wombats,echidnas, wallabies and kangaroos. Hiking,mountain biking and kayaking are all popularpursuits. Camp overnight or rent one of theold convict cells. MC

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com),Jetstar (jetstar.com) and Virgin Australia(virginaustralia.com) run regular flights to Hobartand Launceston. A ferry service, taking 30minutes, operates between Triabunna and Maria(mariaislandferry.com.au). The Maria Island Walk(mariaislandwalk.com.au) operates four-daywalking expeditions.

27 NORTH AMERICAWILDLIFETHE EXPERIENCE Search for the Yukon'sbears under the midnight Canadian sun.

Spotting a grizzly from the Yukon's wildflower-fringed highways isn't as hard as you mightthink. Keep your eyes peeled for a flash ofshaggy amber fur or take the hint from othertourists who have pulled over their RVs(recreational vehicles) to sit, transfixed, at thesight of a bear or two snacking on summergrowth. With just a campervan door betweenyou and those teeth, your heart will beatfaster - guaranteed. KL

DREAM TO REALITY Air Canada (aircanada.corn) flies from Australia to Whitehorse viaVancouver. Kluane National Park (pc.gc.ca) offersgreat bear spotting. Rent an RV in Whitehorse(travelyukon.com). Government campgroundsare open May to September.

28 EUROPEJOURNEYTHE EXPERIENCE Stay in the white villagesof Las Alpujarras in Spain's Sierra Nevada.

Lose yourself amid Andalucia's mountainousregion, which Arabic conquerors made theirown in the 8th century. Whether you rent avilla in tiny Atalbeitar, where a few scrappycats make up the pedestrian traffic, orTrevelez, the highest town in Spain and hometo some of the country's best jamon, the area'stowns and villages, clinging to the cliff-faces instark, whitewashed relief, offer a spare,unvarnished beauty. EV

DREAM TO REALITY British Airways(britishairways.com) flies from Australia toLondon with connections to Malaga. Renta car at Malaga airport (malagaairport.eu);Las Alpujarras is about mokm to thenorth-east. Villa rentals (rusticaltravel.com).More information: spain.info.

29 ASIAISLANDSTHE EXPERIENCE Immerse yourself ina Philippines island paradise.

Tropical islands don't come much more perfect- or laid-back - than Panglao, an idylliccollection of farms, fishing hamlets and white-sand beaches off the south-west tip of Bohol.Most visitors are here for the excellent scubadiving. Outrigger canoes can be hired on thebeach for a few dollars. Accommodationoptions are limited but, for something reallyspecial, book a thatched pavilion at EskayaBeach Resort & Spa. MC

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com) fliesto Manila from Australia. Cebu Pacific(cebupacificaircom) flies to Bohol (TagbilaranAirport) from both Manila and Cebu. EskayaBeach Resort & Spa (eskayaresort.com).






30 FREQUENT FLYER',MOPE

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99

F35AR ES.S.ENTIAL(from top) seeing a grizzlybear in the wild will giveyour holiday a thrillingflavour; the serene shoresof Lake Como in Italy.






31 AUSTRALIANATURETHE EXPERIENCE Marvel at the MenindeeLakes, NSW.

Kinchega National Park, on the banks of theDarling River, is among the most remarkablebut least known of our national parks, andthe Menindee Lakes (there are four) are themain drawcard. Now in flood, they present amagnificent sight: a huge expanse of water,rich in bird and marine life. Sunsets here arestunning. There is pleasant lakeside campingor shearers quarters for hire, both operatedby the National Parks and Wildlife Service. /.40

DREAM TO REALITY Rex (rex.com.au) operatesdirect flights between Sydney and BrokenHill. Menindee is about ilokm from BrokenHill - hire an off-road vehicle. Contact NPWS(environment.nsw.gov.au) about campingnear the lakes.

32 MIDDLE EASTHISTORYTHE EXPERIENCE Discover Dubai'shidden heritage.

Make like a local and catch an abra, atraditional wooden boat that taxis peopleacross Dubai Creek. Explore the shadednarrow alleyways, ancient wind-towerarchitecture, cafes and galleries of Bastakiya.Authentic experiences can be hard to find

amid the shimmering, sky-scraping Disneylandof development that is modern Dubai, butthis restored precinct, founded by19th-century Persian merchants, provides

a glimpse of the Emirate's trading past - anda clue to its present. EV

DREAM TO REALITY Emirates (emirates.com/au) flies from Australia to Dubai. Bastakiya is onBur Dubai, on the west side of Dubai Creek,which is lined on both sides with numerous abrastops. Bastakiya tours (cultures.ae).

33 AUSTRALIAOUTDOORSTHE EXPERIENCE Attempt to walk Victoria'sGreat Ocean Road.

Not so long ago, people came to drive theGreat Ocean Road. Now they want to pullon their hiking boots and walk the entire102-kilometre route - from Apollo Bay to theTwelve Apostles. Big-surf beaches, denseeucalypt forest and sheer ocean cliffs are justsome of the things to see. The track is wellsignposted. with plenty of campsites alongthe way. But it's no doddle, so expect a fewblisters, aches and pains. Mc

DREAM TO REALITY Apollo Bay is locatedabout zookm south-west of Melbourne.Although Victoria's Great Ocean Walk can betackled independently, Bothfeet (bothfeet.com)offers small, group expeditions.






34 NORTH AMERICACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Tour a native Americanpueblo in New Mexico.

No other inhabited pueblo in the UnitedStates is more dramatically situated than NewMexico's Acoma. Perched atop a 110-metre-high sandstone mesa rising from the desert,the citadel has been home to the Acomapeople since the 12th century. From thevisitors' centre below, take a minibus to begina 90-minute tour that includes a peek insidethe 17th-century, dirt-floored adobe church;descend via a rock stairway with handholdsrubbed smooth by countless generations. KL

DREAM TO REALITY United Airlines (united.corn) flies from Australia to Albuquerque viaLos Angeles. Acoma is about iookm west ofAlbuquerque; pueblo tours run from Februaryto November (acomaskycity.org). Rent a vehiclefrom the airport (avis.com).

35 NEW ZEALANDCULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Delve into secretMaori business.

Tom Loughlin is a Maori chief, qualified chef,expert fly fisherman and former rugby leagueplayer. Set on 2000 hectares of North Islandmountain and forest, Tamau Pa is a place ofsimple outdoor adventure where Maori culturecan be experienced first-hand. Apart fromenjoying one of Tom's gourmet hangis, guestscan catch wild eels in the river and hunt deer(during the season). Along the way you mighteven discover your inner Maori. Mc

DREAM TO REALITY Air New Zealand(airnewzealand.com) has regular flights fromAustralia to Auckland and Wellington on the NorthIsland with connections to regional airports. TheKai Waho Experience (kaiwaho.co.nz), at TamauPa near Taupo on the North Island, includes

hunting, fishing and "advanced cultural learning".

36 EUROPEURBANTHE EXPERIENCE Head to Helsinki, thisyear's World Design Capital.

Helsinki is celebrating everything from art tohomewares (including the internationallyrenowned littala line) with late-night shopping,discounts, workshops, exhibitions and events.The Finnish capital's Design District spansseveral easily negotiated blocks, where you'llfind such diverse stores as Artek, founded bymodern architecture maestro Alvar Aalto,Kalevala Jewellery, inspired by Finnishlegends, and the hippie-chic Globe Hope,doing the right thing by creating clothing andbags out of recycled fabrics, EV

DREAM TO REALITY Finnair (www.finnair.com/au) flies from Australia to Helsinki. DesignDistrict Helsinki: designdistrict.fi; HelsinkiWorld Design Capital: wdchelsinki2012.fi/en.

37 EUROPEINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Savour a glass of redwine by the hearth of a quinta in Portugal'sDouro Valley.

The adventure begins on the slow train thatfollows a single track north through themountains from Porto to Pinhao, past stationswhere the azulejos, Portugal's traditional blue-and-white tiles, tell the story of port-making.A new generation of winemakers, however, isfocused on the region's unique, gutsy red winesmade from indigenous grape varieties, mostnotably touriga nacional and tinta roriz. HA

DREAM TO REALITY British Airways(britishairways.com) flies from Australia toLisbon via London with connections to Porto.UTracks (utracks.com) can arrange a five-day,self-guided walking trip in Douro Valley.






38 FREQUENT FLYERAUSTRALIAGuy maestriAchst.. 2009 Archibald Pi-ie winner,

THE PLACE Seel Rocks, NSW.

THE EXPERIENCE I've beencoming to this area for 30years - I've got a little placehere that I truck around with.Tr e beaches am so good that

lye become .somethirrg of a snob - F don'teven bother bringing my ur/hoard back toSydney (where I live] hrty More. If there are10 peopia in lila surf Up here. it's a m-owd.There's-a dirt road into Seal Rocks ELM and[the locals] try to keep it that way. Ifs one ofthe roast magicel places on earth

DETAILSRex frax.corrLaa) Pies FromSydney to Tamar oarri Fronn Seal Rcheks.Seal Rocks Is 310krn n-orth of Sydney on thehtsw mid north coast Stay 8t. SugariodPoint's hlsturic lighthouse cottages(sealrockslii0ahouseaccommodation.corn.su)or camp (seafroclksholidaypark.cem-au),

39 NORTH AMERICAOUTDOORSTHE EXPERIENCE Tear up the perfect dirtof Idaho's mountain-bike trails.

In winter, Sun Valley is a glamorous ski resort.The rest of the year it's mountain-biking heaven.This Idaho playground's fractured shale makesfor pretty much perfect dirt. Add to that single-track trails at beginner, intermediate andadvanced levels (including hiker-free "flowtrails") and breathtaking scenery. KL

DREAM TO REALITY United Airlines (united.com)flies from Australia to Boise via Los Angeles.Rent a bike from The Elephant's Perch in Ketchumthat adjoins Sun Valley (elephantsperch.com).

40 ASIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Learn how to taste tea(properly) at a Sri Lankan tea estate.

A day in Bogawantalawa begins with tea in bedin one of four restored colonial bungalows atCeylon Tea Trails, then a breakfast cup besidea terrace where pickers are plucking theprescribed "two leaves and a bud". Another cupfollows with planter-in-residence Andrew Taylor,who conducts a tour of the Norwood tea

factory. Later, at high tea on the terrace,assess the strength, colour and pungency ofa brew likely picked yesterday morning (nomilk or sugar, please). HA

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeair.com.au) flies from Australia toColombo, via Singapore. Banyan Lanka Tours(banyanlanka.com) includes the Ceylon Tea Trails(teatrails.com) on its itineraries.

41 EUROPEOUTDOORSTHE EXPERIENCE Put yourself in thepostcard at Lake Bled, Slovenia.

The tiny nation of Slovenia only has one island- rising from the turquoise waters of Lake Bled- but it's a beauty. Strapping Slovenian menrow you across the tranquil glacial lake tothe island, where you climb 99 steps to the15th-century church of St Mary. When you haverecovered from the 100-metre ascent, you'rerewarded with views of the Julian Alps. EV

DREAM TO REALITY Finnair (finnair.com/au)flies from Australia to Helsinki with partnerairline Qantas, with connections to Ljubljana.More information: visitljubljana.si. Regular busesand trains run from the capital, Ljubjiana, to Bled,60km north-west of the capital (slovenia.info).

66there are io

people in theS.Iurf at SealRocks, it acrowd,- It's oneof the most'magical placeon earth

NEAR AND rAR.(from top) Helsinki isthis year's World DesignCapital; Seal Rockshas brilliant surf andnot too many surfers.






malikjfernando

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42 EUROPECULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Sip Valpolicella on thesteps of the Arena di Verona, Italy.

Catch a performance at the "other" colosseum,the Arena di Verona, set in the home town ofRomeo and Juliet. Six different benchmarkoperas are performed over so nights duringfestival season, June to September, althoughthis beautifully preserved Roman amphitheatre,dating from AD30, sees year-roundperformances. Seated on the ancient steps,vino in hand, the romance is palpable. EV

DREAM TO REALITY Emirates (emirates.com/au) operates daily flights from Australia toDubai with onward connections to Venice.RailEurope (raileurope.com.au) operates trainservices between all major Italian hubs. Veronais about uokm west of Venice. Arena di Verona:www.arena.it.

43 ASIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Meditate with Buddhistmonks on a sacred mountain in Japan.

In AD816, a Japanese monk named Kukaiclimbed the holy mountain of Koya, on theKii Peninsula south of Osaka, and built thefirst temple of the Shingon sect of EsotericBuddhism. About 50 of Koyasan's 117 templeswelcome travellers to stay in simple tatami-matrooms, meditate or pray with their monks anddine on a highly sophisticated temple cuisine,shojin ryori. Just outside town, a "foresttherapy walk" beneath mossy cedars and hinokileads to Okunoin, an ancient cemetery of halfa million graves - a serene city of spirits. HA

DREAM TO REALITY Japan Airlines (jal.com.au)and Qantas (qantas.com) fly direct from Sydneyto Tokyo. Shukubo, or temple lodgings, usuallyhave shared toilets and communal, separate-gender bathhouses (shukubo.jp/eng). Moreinformation: jnto.org.au.

44 EUROPEURBANTHE EXPERIENCE Stay at the most stylishdigs in Italy's fashion capital.

The belle epoque Hotel Principe di Savoia,overlooking Milan's Piazza della Repubblica,has been scoring style points since the 1920s.Sip a Negroni in the Thierry Despont-designedPrincipe Bar before retiring to one of thedeluxe Mosaic rooms, with their opulentbathrooms adorned with tiny glass tiles. If you

can bear to sneak away, Milan's attractionsinclude da Vinci's The Last Supper, SforzaCastle and, of course, the Duomo (cathedral),plus Missoni for a steal at La Rinascentedepartment store. EV

DREAM TO REALITY British Airways(britishairways.com) flies from Australia toLondon with connections to Milan. HotelPrincipe di Savoia (hotelprincipedisavoia.com),part of the Dorchester Collection, can arrangetours of Milan La Rinascente (www.rinascente.it).

45 PACIFICISLANDSTHE EXPERIENCE Escape the tourists onNew Caledonia's Lifou Island.

Palm-fringed beaches, sleepy tropical villagesand a good supply of Cotes du Rhone andfreshly baked baguettes ... is there anythingelse today's beachcomber could desire? Lifou,one of the Loyalty Islands, is the gem of NewCaledonia - green, unspoilt and supremelylaid-back. The combination of Kanak culture,French gastronomy, crystal-clear ocean (theisland is a magnet for snorkellers) and islandtranquillity makes Lifou one of the best-keptsecrets in the Pacific. mC

DREAM TO REALITY Air Caledonie (air-caledonie.nc) and Qantas (qantas.com) flyfrom Australia to Noumea. Air Caledonie hasregular flights from Noumea to Lifou. Stay at theDrehu Village Hotel (drehu.grands-hotels.cc).

46 EUROPEHERITAGETHE EXPERIENCE Check in at (probably) theworld's oldest hotel in Spain.

Parador de Santiago de Compostela, a memberof Spain's unique network of heritage inns, hasbeen welcoming weary pilgrims on the Caminode Santiago trail for centuries. The 128-roomhotel, likely the world's oldest (though someJapanese ryokans, or traditional inns, may demur)dates to 1499, when it opened as a hospital forpilgrims. It has a commanding position adjacentto Santiago de Compostela's grand cathedraland square, while the hotel itself features fourelegant cloisters and restaurants specialising inthe local Galician cuisine. AD

DREAM TO REALITY More information:paradores-spain.com. Travel the World(traveltheworld.com.au) and Tauck (tauck.com)run small-group "Paradors of Northern Spain"tours beginning in Barcelona and ending in LisbonSingapore Airlines (singaporeaincom) flies fromAustralia to Barcelona, via Singapore.






66Ljubljana s streetsare wonderfulo warid@r

- a rare -mix o-Fthe old andthe avant garde

11

ALL THE WORLD'SA DEST IN ATiON(clockwise from top)Milan's classy HotelPrincipe di Savoia;Lifou Island, NewCaledonia; Ljubljanacapital of Slovenia.






47 EUROPECULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Savour some architecturaleye candy in Ljubljana, Slovenia.

The Slovenian capital's streets are wonderfulto wander, a rare mix of the old and the avantgarde: the cobbled, medieval Mestni Trg (townsquare), the exuberantly baroque Franciscanchurch and the bold architecture of JoiePleCnik, who stamped the city with hisunconventional signature in the 1920s and'30s. Criss-cross his colonnaded bridges,which sport modern sculptures and span theLjubljanica, and soak up the city's surprisinglyMediterranean vibe at a riverside cafe. EV

DREAM TO REALITY Finnair (finnair.comfau)flies from Australia to Helsinki with partnerairline Qantas, with connections to Ljubljana.More information: visitljubljana.si.

48 ASIAJOURNEYTHE EXPERIENCE Play high-altitudebackyard cricket in Himalayan India.

The source of the Ganges and the holiestof India's Hindu temples are found in theHimalayan foothills of Uttarakhand, a little-touristed northern state known as the "land ofthe gods". Follow cow paths and pilgrimageroutes in the spectacular Kumaon regionthrough oak and rhododendron forests, andstay at restored village houses along the way.And rest in utter luxury at the private alpineretreat of 3600 Leti, where staff and guestsplay cricket beneath the Nanda Devi range. HA

DREAM TO REALITY Shakti (shaktihimalaya.com) runs private walking trips in the Kumaonregion, staying at village houses and 3600 Leti.Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com) fliesfrom Australia to Delhi via Singapore.

49 AFRICA

WILDLIFETHE EXPERIENCE Take a walk on the wildside in South Africa's Kruger National Park.

When you're out under the stars on safari,with nothing but a bit of canvas between youand the wildlife, you'd better hope the lionsleeps tonight. Then again, little can match theexperience of listening to the throaty coughs ofunseen leopards while your Shangaan trackerrecounts tales of rhino charges and sparksfrom the fire disappear into the African night.At Ngala Private Game Reserve, on Kruger'swestern border, luxury safari operator &Beyondoffers guests the chance to step away from thefour-wheel-drive and into the scrubby terrain,






50 FREQUENT FLYERSOUTH AMERICARichard EvansBrgeCloinb Sydney manis01g clifector,Innerser Sydney Opera House CEO-

THE PLACE I3Li 0110S. Afre.5.Argentina

THE EXPERIENCE One oilmy most amazing experienceswen going to the lootloall in anarea called La BOCZ It WaS jug

a regutar mata we went to cm a Sundaynight. Pearde bting in instruments -h.errns, the yelrierle thing - so irorri start ttifinish thv match hais souncltreck. Thewholle crowd is chanting and stamping - itwas just Isananeis. At a certain point Flareswe 50-Ma oilE II was one of the on-o-stelectrifying. theatrical &porting ox pa rionciasoF my life.

DETAILS Cl.ntas (qairitascurn) Dies #1,D111AL,Str Itha to Santiago. Chile, wit h corinact ion*to Buenos Aires. Stay at the boutique HomeHotel in the Paia-rrno Vi neighbourko-cidthomelsueoos-aires,com),

on bespoke guided walks that can last fromtwo hours to three days. Accompanied byan experienced guide and tracker, groupsnumbering a maximum of six pick their waythrough Timbavati Game Reserve. They pauseto interpret the signs of the bush, whether it'sa change in bird calls, the subtle crack of abranch or the breathy "bah" of an impalawarning. There's a pleasurable prickling ofadrenalin as you mull potential encounterswith toothy predators, but &Beyond focuseson the small stuff, too. Whether you'recontemplating a baboon print, the exertionsof a dung beetle or a wisteria tree knockeddown by an elephant, it all adds up to agreater appreciation of the environment. Ifyou opt to sleep out, you'll hardly rough it:accommodated in smart, semi-permanenttents, and dining alfresco on pan-African food.Alternatively, head to stylish Ngala TentedCamp, where all manner of birds, monkeys andantelope join you for sundowners by a limpidinfinity pool. EV

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com) hasregular flights from Australia to Johannesburgwith connections to other South African cities.Fly from Johannesburg to Nelspruit orHoedspruit airports, where &Beyond(andbeyond.com) will transfer you the 190kminto Ngala Private Game Reserve.

NATURAL 1-1104?,(clockwise from top) stayin a luxury tree house inNew Zealand; ride ona rail trail in Cornwall; gobananas in Buenos Aires,

51 EUROPECULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Spend a night at the world'sfinest opera in Vienna.

Book tickets to an opera (or queue 80 minutesbefore curtain for 4 standing-room tickets) atthe five-tier wedding-cake baroque WienerStaatsoper, or Vienna State Opera. It's oneof Europe's busiest theatres, with arguablythe world's toughest and most discerningaudience. After the encores, cross the roadfor a slice of original sachertorte (chocolatecake) at Hotel Sacher. HA

DREAM TO REALITY Emirates (emirates.com/au)flies from Australia to Vienna, via Dubai.Wiener Staatsoper: wiener-staatsoper.at.More information on Vienna and Austria:vienna.info/en and austria.info/au.

52 NORTH AMERICAURBANTHE EXPERIENCE Get hip and happening inPortland, Oregon, America's coolest city.

For a city of just over 500,000 inhabitants,Portland, in America's Pacific north-west,harbours lofty ambitions. Not content with itsreputation for excellent coffee, deliciousregional fare and award-winning beers and

114

Going to thefootbaR in La Bo.W$ one of themost electrifying.theatrical sport iniexperiancemy life,

99






wines, Portland is also the country's mostfreewheeling, liberal (in the lower-case "I"sense) enclave. The city motto is "Keep ItWeird" - where else could have producedVoodoo Doughnuts? MC

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com) fliesfrom Australia to Los Angeles with connectingflights to Portland on Alaskan Airlines. Stayat Hotel Modera (hotelmodera.com).

53 EUROPEOUTDOORSTHE EXPERIENCE Tackle the scenic CamelTrail in Cornwall.

On a sunny day - and north Cornwall has itsfair share - there is nothing like riding the28-kilometre Camel Trail, which stretchesalong a disused railway line from thefishing village of Padstow via Wenford Bridgeto Bodmin Moor. Don't expect to bump intoany dromedaries, though - the trail takes itsname from the magnificent Camel Estuary,which flows from Wadebridge to the sea.Hardened mountain bikers will find the traileasy work, with the old railway line makingfor a pleasant jaunt, but the countrysideis ravishing. MC

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com) and

British Airways (britishairways.com) fly regularlyto London. Padstow is a four-hour drive fromLondon, or catch a train to Newquay. Bicyclehire: Padstow Cycle Hire (padstowcyclehire.com)Stay at St Petroc's Hotel (rickstein.com).

54 NEW ZEALANDINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Stay at a luxurytree-house lodge in New Zealand.

New Zealand's network of superb, world-classluxury lodges stretching across the North andSouth Islands is that country's gift to the worldof cushy accommodation. And there's nonemore unusual and appealing than HapukuLodge, at Kaikoura on the north-east coast ofthe South Island, with its quintet of spaciousand well-appointed architect-designed treehouses. They deliver not only wickedstandards of comfort but also fabulous viewsof snow-capped peaks, deer-filled pasturesand, of course, the canopies of nativemanuka groves. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Air New Zealand(airnewzealand.com.au) has flights fromAustralia to Wellington and Christchurch.Hapuku Lodge (hapukulodge.com) is locatedjust outside Kaikoura.

f..

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55 PACIFICADVENTURETHE EXPERIENCE Whoosh down Samoa'sPapasee'a Sliding Rocks.

Conquering a five-metre-high, almost-verticalwaterfall might not seem much of a challenge- until you're peering over the top, kneesquaking, with Samoan teenagers daringyou to sit on the mossy rocks and takethe plunge. Once you've pushed off there'sno turning back - you're headed for thecool rock pool below and a glorious feelingof invincibility for the rest of the day. Threesmaller slides will warm you up for thebig one. KL

DREAM TO REALITY Virgin Australia flies directfrom Sydney to Samoa (virginaustralia.com).Sliding Rock is a few minutes' drive from Apia.Stay in a bungalow at Aggie Grey's Hotel& Bungalows (aggiegreys.com).

56 EUROPEINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Dine at the on-boardNobu sushi bar as you cruise the Arctic Sea.

You may have to tussle with your Japanesefellow passengers aboard the very classyluxury ships Crystal Serenity and CrystalSymphony for a seat at the sushi counterat Silk Road & Sushi Bar. But on an

adventurous two-week cruise to the Arctic,via Denmark, Norway and Sweden, chancesare that you won't miss out. Celebrity chefNobu Matsuhisa installs some of his bestchefs from his raw fish empire, includingfrom New York, to man his floating sushi bar,which also serves other Japanese dishes.If you tire of Japanese, there's always theItalian restaurant, Prego, where from thevantage point of your dining table youcould well be lucky enough to spot herdsof beluga whales frolicking in the frigidArctic waters. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Crystal Cruise's "NorthCape and Arctic Circle - Arctic Adventure"cruise between Copenhagen and Stockholmdeparts on July 8, 2012 (crystalcruises.com).Emirates (emirates.com/au) flies toCopenhagen from Dubai, with dailyconnections from Australia.

57 PACIFICADVENTURETHE EXPERIENCE Swim with Bora Bora'sfriendly sharks.

So you think a Tiffany's box is the best shadeof blue in the world? Clearly you haven'tbeen to Bora Bora, the most famed (andoutrageously beautiful) of the more than120 islands and atolls that make up FrenchPolynesia. The mountainous main island,once a strategic World War II base for USforces, is surrounded by a lagoon of the moststartling hue imaginable. Unsurprisingly, aholiday here means embracing the life aquatic:go for a lazy snorkel over one of the coralgardens that attract fish of every size, shape,colour and habit imaginable, or up theadrenalin factor exponentially by slipping inamong a school of reef sharks with black-tipped fins. Even though the species isn'tknown to nibble on people, it's a seriouslyheart-pumping adventure to be in the waterwith no barrier between them and you -especially when you spy much larger (butnotoriously shy) lemon sharks lurking on theseabed below. Swimming with these sharks isthe highlight of a day tour on a motorisedoutrigger canoe. The tours usually includecuddling stingrays in shallow waters, abountiful lunch on one of the motus (islets)that ring the lagoon, a circumnavigation of themain island with stops at the best snorkellingspots and, if you get the right crew, a fewtraditional and not-so-traditional tunes sungwith complete joie de vivre. KL






DREAM TO REALITY Fly to the island of Tahitiwith Air Tahiti Nui (airtahitinui.com.au), overnightin Papeete, then take a domestic flight toBora Bora, 260km to the north-west. Bora Boraaccommodation packages at tahitinow.com.au.

58 ASIAINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Cruise Vietnam's HalongBay on a small luxury junk.

Halong Violet is not only the most luxuriousjunk on Vietnam's World Heritage-listedHalong Bay - which is dotted with morethan 2000 karst-like islands that protrudedramatically from the sea - it's also the fastest.This means you reach Halong Bay's keyattractions, such as floating fishing villages,more quickly than any of the other 400-oddboats. But it's the indulgent comfort factorthat sets Halong Violet apart from the rest.The junk, with just six spacious berths the sizeof a boutique hotel room (and with similaramenities, such as spa baths), is decorated

Go for a lazysnorkel overone of the coralgardens thatattract fish ofevery size, shape,colour and habitirrgagirlable.

JUNE. ONO NG;(clockwise from top) cruisein Vietnam's Halong Bay;swim with the sharksin French Polynesia;take tea in Uzbekistan.

in faux lndochine-style, with a dining room,library and small gym aboard. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Vietnam Airlines(vietnamairlines.com) flies direct from Australiato Hanoi (the closest city to Halong Bay).Halong Violet, and two other luxury cruises,can be booked through Active Travel(activetravel.com.au).

59 NORTH AMERICAINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Splurge on a stay at PostRanch Inn, Big Sur.

When it comes to overnight pit-stops alongCalifornia's famed Highway" they don't comemuch more luxurious than Post Ranch Inn. Ifmoney's no object, book a cliff house perchedon the vertiginous Big Sur cliff-top. Otherwise,stargaze from bed in a triangular stilted treehouse with skylights, or contemplate themountains from your peak house's outdoor hottub. Don't leave without soaking in one of theinfinity pools overlooking the Pacific Ocean. KL

DREAM TO REALITY United Airlines (united.com) flies from Australia to San Francisco. PostRanch Inn (postranchinn.com) is about 240kmsouth of San Francisco.

60 ASIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Take in the markets ofUzbekistan, land of the golden smiles.

The majority of visitors to this former Sovietrepublic come to visit its "big three" SilkRoad cities: Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva.But a bonus of a visit to Uzbekistan is themarkets surrounding or inside the cities'World Heritage-listed monument precincts(as well as sites within the capital. Tashkent,itself). Bukhara's ancient trading domes are thelocation for stalls selling exquisite embroideredwares such as rugs and cushions. It's here, too,that you can encounter the local people ofUzbekistan, known as "the land of the goldensmiles" - a reference not to a dubious "nationalhappiness index" but to the fact that many alocal woman's mouth features the arrestingstatus symbol of a full set of shiny gold teeth. AD

DREAM TO REALITY The Captain's Choice "SilkRoad by Private Train" tour (captainschoice.com.au) via Central Asia starts in Beijing and ends inMoscow. Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com)flies to and from Australia, via Singapore, toBeijing and Moscow.






61 SOUTH AMERICAOUTDOORSTHE EXPERIENCE Stargaze in the AtacamaDesert, Chile.

High, dry and blessed with minimal light or airpollution, the Atacama Desert is renownedfor excellent stargazing. Frenchman AlainMaury and his wife, Alejandra, lead fascinatingtours of the night sky using high-definitiontelescopes on their remote Altiplano property.The Milky Way is almost close enough to touchand the crystal-clear sight of an explodingnebula or distant galaxy is unforgettable. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com) andLAN (lan.com) fly from Australia to Santiago,with connections north to the desert city ofCalama. San Pedro, the main tourist town, isa 45-minute taxi ride away. Stargazing toursavailable through spaceobs.com.

62 ASIA

JOURNEYTHE EXPERIENCE Cruise in luxury alongBangkok's Chao Phraya River.

Bangkok's Chao Phraya River is one of theworld's great urban waterways, extending allthe way to the ancient capital of Ayutthaya inthe Thai countryside and beyond. There's nobetter or more agreeable way to communewith the river than aboard one of the chic,converted 20-metre teak rice barges ofManohra Cruises. Linger on the polishedtimber deck (sans footwear, please) during theday as you watch Thailand's raucous riverineworld drift by. By night, dine al fresco onquality Thai cuisine while the barge is mooredat an upriver Buddhist monastery or temple. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.com.au) flies frequently fromAustralia to Bangkok. Manohra Cruises:manohracruises.com.






63 AFRICAHISTORYTHE EXPERIENCE Relive South Africa'sAnglo-Zulu wars.

Fans of the classic 1964 British film Zulu,starring Michael Caine and Jack Hawkins, willfind this dusty little outpost on the veldtstrangely familiar. The mission station at Rorke'sDrift, where 139 redcoats defied a 4000-strongZulu army in January 1879, contains a quaintmuseum, complete with life-size battle scenes.Although the site is a modern re-creation, thisis a deeply moving place. MC

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com) fliesfrom Australia to Johannesburg with connectionsto Durban. Rorke's Drift is a four-hour drivefrom Durban. The nearest town is Dundee(46km away). Stay at Royal Country Inn(www.royalcountryinn.com). Find expert guidesat: battlefieldsregionguides.co.za.

64 ASIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Discover architecturaljewels in Phnom Penh.

Before the killing fields, Cambodia was brieflya centre of modern architecture. Driven by theFrench-trained Cambodian architect VannMolyvann, Phnom Penh between the 1950sand 1970s became the setting for severalacclaimed modernist buildings such as theCapital Cinema and the ambitiously namedOlympic Stadium, many of which are nowunder threat. The Cambodian capital is alsohome to a plethora of faded French colonialbuildings. Download a self-guided tour byKhmer Architecture Tours or hire a privateguide who is an architectural expert. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Thai Airways (www.thairairways.com.au) flies from Australia toPhnom Penh via Bangkok. Khmer ArchitectureTours: ka-tours.org. Stay at Raffles Hotel Le

Royal (raffles.com) or The Quay (thequayhotel.corn). More information: tourismcambodia.com.

65 EUROPEINDULGENCE

THE EXPERIENCE Savour the pintxos bars inSan Sebastian.

Spain's northern Basque country has evolvedinto the best place to eat in the Western world- according to no less an authority than FerranAdri , the man who famously ran the world'sbest restaurant until he shut El Bulli last year.The soul of this blessed epicurean land is foundin San Sebastian, an aristocratic seaside resortrenowned for having more Michelin stars percapita than anywhere on earth. Within this smallsweep of coastline and surrounding countrysidedwell such culinary legends as Mugaritz. Arzak,Martin Berasategui, Akelarre and Etxebarri.But San Sebastian's sixth sense for cuisine isnot confined to three-star establishments -gastronomy runs in the veins here. Men gatherweekly in the historic centre at private diningclubs called txokos to cook communal feastsusing the finest seasonal produce they cansource in this lush corner of the IberianPeninsula. For outsiders, the easiest andmost fun way to savour the Basque dedicationto degustation is to embark on a txikiteo, acrawl of the old city's pintxos (tapas) bars.All will have prepared pintxos on the benchand usually a blackboard menu of cooked-to-order hot dishes. The standard of food is soexceptional it doesn't really matter what baryou choose, but the likes of Bar La Cepa. AloneBerri, Tamboril and Casa Ganderias have wonfans for their alta cocina en miniatura (hautecuisine in miniature). KH

DREAM TO REALITY Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.com.au) and Emirates (emirates.com)offer good connections from Australia to Madrid,from where there are daily one-hour flights to SanSebastian. More information: Spain.info.

66 ASIAHERITAGETHE EXPERIENCE Stay in a converted shop-house in historic George Town. Penang.

South-east Asia has undergone a just-in-timeheritage revival with cities and towns such asVietnam's Hoi An, Laos's Luang Prabang andMalaysia's Malacca all benefiting fromrestorations driven by UNESCO World Heritagelistings. Now, visionary Australians NarelleMcMurtrie and Christopher Ong have helped






66Fl ada 9a5car'sflora andfauna have

yed inisolation tocreate a placeunlike anyother onthe planet

siGH-rs A HO SOLINGSz(clockwise from topleft) Ptntxos feast inSpain's Basque country:Fatehpur-Sikri, one ofIndia's architecturalwonders: walking inpristine New Zealand:some of Madagascar'sunusual flora.

to transform George Town, on the Malaysianisland of Penang. They've opened chic andaffordable accommodation, casual Australian-style cafes, laid-back restaurants and artgalleries from the shells of traditional shop-houses and even a set of stables. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeaircom) flies from Australia toSingapore with connections to Penang withits regional carrier, SilkAir (silkair.com).More information: straitscollection.com.my;www.muntrimews.com.

67 AFRICAJOURNEYTHE EXPERIENCE Visit Madagascarfor its unique animals, plants and

I incredible landscapes.

Madagascar really is a world apart. Cast adriftfrom the African mainland more than 100million years ago, its flora and fauna haveevolved in isolation to create a place unlikeany other on the planet. On the world's fourthlargest island, 90 per cent of the plants areendemic along with 93 per cent of the






mammals (including lemurs). 60 per cent ofthe birds and almost all the amphibians. KH

DREAM TO REALITY The shortest route fromAustralia to Madagascar is via Mauritius with AirMauritius (airmauritius.com). More information:madagascar-tourisme.com.

68 ASIAHERITAGETHE EXPERIENCE Explore the lost cityof Fatehpur-Sikri.

An hour's drive from the town of Agra, homeof the Taj Mahal, is the less visited, though noless compelling, 16th-century Mughal ghostcity of Fatehpur-Sikri. Abandoned in 1585- apparently due to an inability to supplyadequate water to its populace - the amazinglywell-preserved, red-sandstone Fatehpur-Sikri isan awe-inspiring amalgam of Hindu and Islamicarchitectural styles. Hire a guide in order toextract the maximum value from your visit tothe site, a perfect companion to a pilgrimageto the Taj Mahal. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeaircom) flies from Australia viaSingapore to six Indian destinations, includingMumbai and Delhi, with rail connections to Agra.

More information on Fatehpur-Sikri:Archaeological Survey of India (asi.nic.in).

69 AUSTRALIAINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Dine and stay at RoyalMail Hotel, Dunkeld, Victoria.

The Royal Mail Hotel is not merely Australia'sfinest country dining experience, it also formsthe basis of a rewarding holiday. Check in fora mandatory two-night stay to enjoy chefDan Hunter's much-lauded virtuoso cooking,perfected during an extended stint in Spain. Butdon't forget to factor in a visit to the adjacentand spectacularly rugged Grampians and areturn drive to Melbourne via the Great OceanRoad, due south from Dunkeld. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Dunkeld is 260km west ofMelbourne. Royal Mail Hotel: royalmail.com.au.

70 ASIAJOURNEYTHE EXPERIENCE A long-awaited look intoBurma, a nation wrought by political disharmony

Even before Nobel laureate Aung San SuuKyi gave her blessing for tourists to visit her






71 FREQUENT FLYERNEW ZEALANDMatt GoldbergMelbourne-based Lonely Planet CEO.

THE PLACE Rob RoyGlacier Track,

THE EXPERIENCE This is oneof the great day walks in theworld. You wand ET up a glacier-fed ri YEW,. cross the swing bridge

and take a Five,ki[ometre wa[k that asc-endsto the glacier, lts harrowing in placesbecause it's edgy. but when you get to thetop you're rewarded with an incredible viewof the Rob Roy Glacier and about 50 flowingwaterfalls. [My eldest child] Aidan was a Hit!:bit younger than nine and it was the firsttime he realised what he could accomplish,It was a fethe-r.son bonding experience thatneither one of us will forget.

DETAILS Air NEW Zealand (airnew7ealand.cam) has regular direct flights from Australiato Christchurch and Queenstown on the SouthIsland. with regional cisonections. Rob Roy6lacier Track is in Mount Aspiring NationalPark fdloc.govtm) in the South IslandsSouthern Alps. From Queenstown. its about130krn to the park via Wanaka,

troubled homeland, Burma (never Myanmar)was a treasured secret of intrepid travellers.Now the world is welcome to experienceethereal Inle Lake, the fabled city of Mandalay,the temple-strewn plains of Bagan and theattractively ramshackle colonial capital ofRangoon. Get it while it's hot. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Thailand is a convenientgateway to neighbouring Burma with Thai Airwaysoperating one-stop flights from Australia toRangoon via Bangkok. More information:Myanmar-tourism.com.

72 NORTH AMERICAJOURNEYTHE EXPERIENCE Take the train throughMexico's Copper Canyon.

The El Chepe railroad is an absoluteengineering marvel that connects the dustydesert capital of Chihuahua City with thePacific coast at Los Mochis. En route, this60-year-old locomotive route traverses86 tunnels, 175 bridges and countlessswitchbacks as it wends its way from

;tH4t

'iiii47






2000-plus metres high in the SierraTarahumara mountains, through themagnificent Copper Canyon to sea level. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com) fliesfrom Australia to Dallas with connections toChihuahua City with American Airlines (aa.com).Daily departures both ways between Chihuahuaand Los Mochis. More information: Chepe.com.mx.

73 ASIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Explore the freneticbackstreets of Kolkata with a private guide.

Burdened by its Black Hole stigma and itsreputation for intractable, grinding poverty,Kolkata remains one of India's most overlookedand least appreciated cities. Yet it's blessedwith not only some of India's finest, albeitdecaying, colonial architecture, butfascinatingly frenetic bazaars which eveninclude a fast-vanishing Chinatown. Booka learned private guide from Calcutta Walksand be transported (in an aged yellowAmbassador taxi, no less) into what is anexotic, wholly foreign universe. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeaircom) flies from Australia viaSingapore to six Indian destinations, includingKolkata. More information: Calcutta Walks(calcuttawalks.com). Stay at the Taj BengalKolkata Hotel (tajhotels.com).

74 AUSTRALIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Commune with the Tiwion Melville Island.

At the very top of Australia, 80 kilometresfrom Darwin across the Arafura Sea, lies amagical place unlike anywhere else on thecontinent. The Tiwi Islands - Bathurst andMelville, Australia's second- and fifth-largestislands respectively - are home to a uniquepopulation of 2500 indigenous Australians.Tiwi language and culture are distinct fromthat of mainland Aborigines and the peoplehave two abiding passions - art and Australianrules football. Tiwi islanders have the highest

football participation rate of any Australiancommunity, a reality that produced such AFLlegends as Michael Long and the Riolibrothers. When not having a kick, the Tiwi canbe found creating extraordinary barkpaintings, weaving pandanus, or carving andpainting the intricate Pukumani burial polesthat decorate Tiwi graves. Access to theislands is by organised day trip; visitors takebilly tea and damper with the Morning TeaLadies, talk with local artists about theirinspirations and motivation, and enjoy thespectacle of a smoking ceremony ortraditional dance performance complete withochre-painted bodies. If a day seems tooshort, visitors can camp overnight on Bathurstand hunt and gather their own food with theirhosts. Local delicacies include mangroveworms and goanna. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com),Virgin (virginaustralia.com) and Jetstar (jetstar.corn) all fly to Darwin from Melbourne andSydney. Tiwi Tours on Bathurst Island organisesvisits to Wurrumiyanga (formerly Nguiu, the maintownship), and to neighbouring Melville. Moreinformation: aussieadventures.com.au.

75 EUROPEINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Stay in a 16th-centurypalazzo on Rome's Via Condotti.

Napoleon slept here. Napoleon the Third, tobe precise, and at the 16th-century PalazzoRuspoli visitors can still bed down in the sameapartments once enjoyed by the ruler of theSecond French Empire. Residenza NapoleoneIll consists of three extravagant suites

' adorned with centuries-old oil paintings,tapestries and statuary. The palazzo's separate

rooftop apartment with terrace views to thegreen lungs of the Villa Borghese offers anequally charmed existence, right in the heartof Rome on Via Condotti. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com) fliesfrom Australia to Singapore from where Finnair(finnair.com/au) flies to Rome via Helsinki. Foraccommodation details see: mrandmrssmith.comresidenzanapoleone.com.






76 ASIAINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Tuck into a sushi breakfastat Tokyo's Tsukiji Fish Markets.

The world's biggest and finest fish market isa crazy, topsy-turvy world where lunch isbreakfast at any of a series of outstanding,excellent sushi bars serving the freshest andbest raw fish on the planet. Rub shoulders atthe crowded sushi counter with a motleycollection of Japanese market workers andbleary-eyed foreign tourists. Combine your visitwith a viewing of the tuna auction (restrictionsapply) between 5am and 6.15am and a wanderaround the market itself - though take care inthe maddening traffic. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com)flies regularly to Tokyo. For more details andregulations about visiting Tsukiji Markets goto: www.shijou.metro.tokyo.jp/english. Foraccommodation needs stay at the nearby,affordable Park Hotel (www.parkhoteltokyo.com)in Shiodome.77 AUSTRALIAINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Beckon your butler whileyou're all at sea.

Silversea's six luxury cruise ships ply routesall over the world but, come summer, oneheads Australia's way, travelling via east coastPorts from Tasmania to the Top End. Get lostin a world where the champagne's on tap, yourbutler is a phone call away and the "porthole"is floor-to-ceiling glass. And you can work onimproving mind and body (anthropologicallecture or zumba class?) once you leveryourself out of your deckchair. KL

DREAM TO REALITY More information (includingSilversea's Australian ports): silversea.com.

78 EUROPEHERITAGETHE EXPERIENCE Visit Gallipoli for itsbeauty as well as its history.

Some Turks call it the "Australian Mecca". Itsplace names echo from our history books -the Nek and the mass graveyard at Lone Pine.Battlefield tours do a roaring trade asAustralians, New Zealanders and Britonsreturn to the scene of one of their bloodiestdefeats. But remembrance is only one aspectof the experience on the Gallipoli Peninsula.The graveyards are scented with stocks

and Sweet William, wild poppies bloom inabundance and the landscape has revertedto its dreamy Aegean type. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Etihad (etihadairways.com) flies from Australia to Istanbul via AbuDhabi. TJ's Travel (anzacgallipolitours.com) inEceabat has excellent guides who lead one-daycircuits of the battlefields.

79 AUSTRALIANATURETHE EXPERIENCE Hop across to KangarooIsland for its stunning flora, fauna and food.

It's often described as Australia's Galapagosbut, beyond the marketing hype, KangarooIsland is what it is: an unpretentious, accessibleholiday destination with superb coastalscenery, prodigious wildlife and a burgeoninglocal food and wine industry. Wander amongscores of seals on an otherwise desertedbeach; marvel at true natural wonders such asRemarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch; meetthe producers of all kinds of foods, fromsheep's milk cheese to Ligurian honey; thenchill out on an island that is refreshingly free(so far) of glitz. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com) andVirgin Australia (virginaustralia.com) have regularflights to Adelaide where Rex (rex.com.au) hasfrequent connections to Kingscote on KangarooIsland. Stay at Thorn Park on the Island (thornpark.com.au) or Aurora Ozone Hotel (auroraresorts.com.au). More information: southaustralia.com.

80 PACIFICOUTDOORSTHE EXPERIENCE Ride via mule to Molokai'sfamous leper colony in Hawaii.

Until recently it was taboo for outsiders tocome to Kalaupapa, on the remote island ofMolokai. Hawaii's dark secret, this is whereleprosy sufferers were banished between 1866and 1969. Today, travellers can visit the isolatedbut stunning peninsula site via a five-kilometremule ride down sea cliffs and a bus tourthrough the remnant colony. Contact isforbidden with the few remaining residents,but historical displays and photographsconvey the tragic beauty of the place. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Hawaiian Airlines(hawaiianair.com) flies from Australia to Honoluluand Island Air (islandair.com) connects to Molokai.Mule treks depart Monday to Saturday. Moreinformation: muleride.com and gohawaii.com.






Travellers toMolokai can

it the isolatedbut stunningpeninsula site viaa five-kilometremule ride dawnsea cliff

PIP

CRUISY L IF EST 'VIE(from top) enjoy luxuryat sea on a Silverseaship; a mule ride downsea cliffs will transportyou to Kalaupapa's lepercolony on the Hawaiianisland of Molokai.

.k.






)110"

81 AFRICACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Discover the gem ofEl Jem, Tunisia.

Thrysdus, as the Ancient Romans called ElJem, is today a dusty, unremarkable settlementin north-east Tunisia that has only one realclaim to fame. At the end of the main street,Avenue Habib Bourguiba, stands Africa'slargest amphitheatre, a 35,000-seat wonder oftiered Corinthian columns and rippling history.Modelled on the Colosseum in Rome, it isalmost as large and in marvellous condition,considering it has dominated this arid plainfor more than 17 centuries. KR

DREAM TO REALITY Etihad (etihadairways.com)and Qatar (qatarairways.com) fly betweenAustralia and North Africa. El Jem is reached bytrain from the capital, Tunis. Check the Australiangovernment's Smartraveller (smartraveller.gov.au)website for security advice for Tunisia.

82 NORTH AMERICAWILDLIFETHE EXPERIENCE Cruise the Sea of Cortez,Baja California, Mexico.

On land you have the well-worn Love Boatports of Puerto Vallarta and Acapulco but thereal star of the Mexican Riviera is the Sea ofCortez, the most biodiverse body of water onthe planet. Cradled between the BajaPeninsula and mainland Mexico, this marinewonderland, dubbed "the world's aquarium"by Jacques Cousteau, harbours more thangoo fish species and 2000 marineinvertebrates that thrive here on nutrient-richupwellings from the sea floor. The Sea ofCortez is also home to 33 species of marinemammal, including the world's largest fish, thewhale shark, and the world's largest animal,the blue whale. Small cruise and expeditionships are the best way to experience thisoften-harsh environment in comfort. Summertemperatures can soar into the high 30s andmuch of the sea is fringed by desert, so onthe water (or in the water) is the best way todiscover what lies beneath. Swim with sealions, turtles and devil rays, or snorkel abovekaleidoscopic schools of parrot fish andsergeant majors. Outside the major ports, thelandscape is an unfolding postcard of sentinelcacti, dramatic mountains like the SierraGiganta and 50 remote islands, many of themnational parks or biospheres sheltering uniqueenvironments and wildlife. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Lindblad's expeditioncruiser National Geographic Sea Lion offers

idThe Coral Triangi.is known as "theAmazon of theseas', so thewaters teemwith magnificontmarine rife.

PIP

GIRT BY SEA! (dpckrouseTrom top left) Saffire,on Tasmania's FreycinetPeninsula; cruising theCroatian coast; thespectacular reefs ofPNG's Coral Triangle.

week-long itineraries in the Sea of Cortez(expeditions.com). Delta (delta.com) flies fromAustralia to Los Angeles with connections toLa Paz, from where you transfer to San Carlosto board the ship.

83 PACIFICADVENTURETHE EXPERIENCE Snorkel or dive in PapuaNew Guinea, heart of the Coral Triangle.

From the bizarre horned sea cucumbers of theTufi fjords to Pig Island's coral gardens paintedverdigris and calamine, Papua New Guinea is alargely unexplored paradise for snorkellers andscuba divers. The country sits at theintersection of the Great Barrier Reef and theCoral Triangle, an area known as "the Amazonof the seas-, so the waters teem withmagnificent marine life. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com) fliesfrom Australia to Port Moresby. Or you can cruisebetween Cairns and Rabaul with AuroraExpeditions (auroraexpeditions.com.au).

84 EUROPECULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Visit the gardens atGiverny, France.

You don't have to be a fan of impressionistmaster Claude Monet to swoon at themeticulously tended gardens and cottage heonce called home in Normandy. The painter'shouse is charming and there's a new-ish art






museum on site, but nothing can eclipse theglorious abundance of Monet's "kingdom offlowers" - from the symmetry and colourbursts of the Clos Normand to the enduringinspiration of the Japanese water gardens thatthe artist painted continuously for 20 years. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Air France (airfrance.com)flies from Australia to Paris. Giverny is about75km from the capital and accessible by train,bus or car. Claude Monet's house and gardensare open from April to October only. Moreinformation: giverny.org.

85 AUSTRALIAINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Stay at Saffire Freycinet,Tasmania's multi-star lodge, for the food asmuch as the scenery.

Tassie's most luxurious lodgings are home toone of Australia's outstanding regional chefs.Hugh Whitehouse, who won critical acclaimduring his days at Darley's restaurant atLilianfels in the Blue Mountains, is thesedays ensconced at Saffire's Palate restaurant.The ingredients for his creative dishes aresourced direct from Tasmania's wealthof quality produce. The only catch is thatto experience Whitehouse's cuisine - ina spectacular, glass-encased lodge buildingoverlooking the Hazards Range - you needto be one of Saffire's guests. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com) andVirgin Australia (virginaustralia.com) fly regularlyto Hobart and Launceston from Melbourne andSydney. Saffire (saffire-freycinet.com.au) islocated at Coles Bay, near Freycinet NationalPark, on Tasmania's east coast, about 200kmnorth of Hobart.

86 EUROPEOUTDOORSTHE EXPERIENCE Rent a yacht in Croatiaand island-hop.

Sailing the Adriatic is not a pursuit confinedto the European jet set. Any group can hire asleek yacht and chart a course for some ofCroatia's 1100 coastal islands, whiling away thedays eating, drinking and slowly becoming nut-brown ocean nymphs. Medieval villages,gambolling dolphins and effusive localhospitality guaranteed. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com) fliesfrom Australia to Frankfurt with connections toZagreb and Dubrovnik with Croatia Airlines(croatiaairlines.com). Book yachts throughestablished rental companies like sunsail.com.Novices can hire a skipper.

87 AUSTRALIAWILDLIFETHE EXPERIENCE Encounter the rarecreatures of Lord Howe Island.

Everything about Lord Howe Island seems rareand a little improbable. Its extravagant beauty- palm trees, white-sand beaches, turquoiselagoon - is more South Sea island thanAustralian coast. Lord Howe rises spectacularlyfrom the ocean to the Jurassic-dramatic basaltpeak of Mount Gower, a challenging nine-hourwalk past sea cliffs, cloud forests andmicrohabitats teeming with strange wildlife,much of it unique to the island. In nestingseason, for example, providence petrels fly outof nowhere when called from the mountainand flop, unafraid, at walkers' feet. They'reamong hundreds of thousands of seabirds thatrest and nest on this volcanic speck, protectedfor the past 30 years by UNESCO WorldHeritage status and as pristine an environmentas you're likely to find. Far outnumbered byfish and fowl are humans - at any one timeonly 400 visitors are permitted on the island,which is home to about 350 residents, many ofwhom you'll meet on their bicycles, dodgingflightless (and rare) woodhens and flesh-footed shearwaters on the road. A perfect day






will also involve immersion, for the island isringed by the world's southernmost coral reef.The diving at 50 sites is superb - visibilityoften exceeds 30 metres - or simply snorkel inthe lagoon among coral gardens and spot theunique (and adorably ugly) double-headedwrasse and McCulloch's anemonefish, a rareclownfish, among 500 fish species found inlocal waters. Or wade knee-deep at NedsBeach and handfeed metre-long kingfish.Later, tuck into the freshest kingfish sashimion the deck of Capella Lodge, a chic beachhouse beneath the twin peaks of MountGower and Mount Lidgbird, and the heightof barefoot luxury on the island. HA

DREAM TO REALITY QantasLink (qantas.com)operates daily flights to Lord Howe Island fromSydney on most days. For luxury accommodation,stay at Capella Lodge (lordhowe.com) andsee the island with LHI Environmental Tours(lordhoweislandtours.com). More information:lordhoweisland.info.

88 NORTH AMERICAURBANTHE EXPERIENCE Snap an architecturalicon from Quebec City's ferry.

Ask the doorman at the slightly spooky-looking Fairmont Le Chkeau Frontenac forthe best place to snap one of the world'smost photographed hotels", and he'll pointyou towards the commuter ferry plying the StLawrence River below. Ride the ferry duringthe infamously cold winter and you'll feel asthough you're aboard an icebreaker. Or timeyour ride for sunset and catch the hotel lookingits sparkly best as the lights come on. KL

DREAM TO REALITY Air Canada (aircanada.corn) flies from Australia to Quebec City viaVancouver and Montreal. Stay at Fairmont LeChateau Frontenac (fairmont.com/Frontenac)and ride the ferry (traversiers.gouv.qc.ca/en).

89 EUROPEINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Stroll among the livelystreets and port wine lodges of Portugal'ssecond city, Porto.

Whether it's the winding, cobbled streets, thedazzling Casa da MUsica concert hall or net-fresh sardines, Porto's joys are many, but atour of the sturdily beautiful port wine lodgesis a must. Taylor's, with its ledger-lined

bookshelves and dimly lit barrel hall, is amongthe most atmospheric. A short walk uphill willbring you to the country's first wine-themedhotel, The Yeatman, where lunch by thedecanter-shaped pool is accompanied byunrivalled views over the Douro river. EV

DREAM TO REALITY British Airways(britishairways.com) flies from Australia toLisbon, with connections to Porto. Taylor's runsdaily tours of its port lodge at Vila Nova da Gaia

(taylorpt/en). The Yeatman (the-yeatman-hotel.corn) is excellent for accommodation, food andwine. More information: visitporto.travel.

90 AUSTRALIAOUTDOORSTHE EXPERIENCE Ride an airboat through theMary River wetlands in the Northern Territory.

The Florida Everglades have got nothing on anairboat safari through the Mary River wetlandsin the Northern Territory. Fierce crocodilesabound and the area is famous for its profusebird life, including a huge breeding colony ofmagpie geese. Glide across its watery reachesto witness the eerie silence of a drownedmelaleuca forest or the glory of a lily fieldstretching to the horizon. KH

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com), VirginAustralia (virginaustralia.com) and Jetstar (jetstar.corn) operate regular flights from Sydney andMelbourne to Darwin. Stay at the upscale BamurruPlains (bamurruplains.com) bush camp, aboutthree hours' drive from Darwin. Bamurru offersairboat tours of the wetlands.

91 ASIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Take in a Balinese templewithout leaving the beach.

Hire a driver to take you to Tanah Lot. Thevenerated Hindu temple sits on a rock off Bali'swest coast and, come high tide, is encircled byseawater. At low tide wander across the blacksands for a closer look - but only those intenton legitimate prayer can enter the complex,which maintains its mystique with a shroud oftrees and vines. The sight becomes even moredramatic at sunset when the temple is throwninto silhouette. KL

DREAM TO REALITY Garuda Indonesia (garuda-indonesia.com) flies from Australia to Denpasar.Tanah Lot (tanahlot.net) is about 30km north-west






66Many of us.spend a lifetimewaiting to visitthe Taj Mahaland then onlyallocate a rushed,sweaty day tripfrom DOH toexpe-rience it.

OPP

TOW 1,1 AND COUNTRY,.(clockwise from topleft) a ferry crosses theSt Lawrence River infront of the FairmontLe CF4teau Frontenachotel: La Esguina, a NewYork favourite of MeganWashington's: the TajMahal in Agra, India.






92 FREQUENT FLYERNORTH AMERICAMogan WashingtonSinger-songwriter

111111 THE PLACE New York City.

-- THE EXPERIENCE I'Vd goneto Nev.. York City and hadfantastic times_ and thenI've grpne-and it's kind Chichewed rine up. gut no Matter

where I go there, Palways Kive a strongexperience, iseither awesome or Led,We checked out a few places in DUMI30,which Is Down Under the ManhattanBridge Overpass.. There's a whoie bunchof really great venues, cafes and amazingbars there. Mayahuel is. a magical Aridta-quila bar in the East "Allege and it's justcompletely hada-ss. My other tip iS LaEsquina - it looks like a cline, and Is. a dinerbut there's a restaurant underneath. There's

signage for the restaurant at all. Youmike. a booking and then you go th-roughthe kitchen Of this crummy-looking diner.past all the dudes washing pots and parts.and down, down, dawn, down, down t©this amagirts, beautiful. condlelit, gothicNiexidall restaurant underneeth.

DETAILS, riy to New York City Via 105ATheeleS with Qantas 1:garita.i:orn). VIrginAuitrolia (wiriginaugtraiiationa), Darts Welth.corn) or United (unitedairlines.cormau4. Moreinformation: Ourribony,--org; niayabiLielnY..corrilesquisonye-corm ICL

of Denpasar and about 50km south-west ofUbud. Stay at the Alila Resort Ubud Hotel(alilahotels.com/ubud).

93 ASIAHERITAGETHE EXPERIENCE Stay in style at the nearestfive-star hotel to the Taj Mahal.

Many of us spend a lifetime waiting to visit theTaj Mahal and then, when we do get there,only allocate a rushed, sweaty day trip fromDelhi to experience it. Splurge on a night ortwo at The Oberoi Amarvilas, the best andnearest hotel to the Taj Mahal (just boometres away) and savour unmatched views ofIndia's architectural jewel. Rise at dawn, withcomplimentary coffee and tea awaiting you inthe lobby, for a crowd-beating tour of themonument with a scholarly private guide andtransport aboard the hotel's own fleet ofelectric golf buggies. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeair.com) flies from Australia viaSingapore to six Indian destinations, includingthe capital, Delhi, which has frequent railconnections to Agra. Stay at The OberoiAmarvilas (oberoihotels.com).

94 AUSTRALIAADVENTURETHE EXPERIENCE Glamp in style in theBlue Mountains.

The Blue Mountains are so familiar toSydneysiders it's easy to forget just how wildand compelling they are. This high-endglamping (glamour camping) experiencepresents the wilderness area in a new light -guests (usually no more than six at a time)sleep in designer swags in the bush andgourmet meals and chilled wines areprovided. Activities include bushwalking,canoeing and birdwatching. mc

DREAM TO REALITY Blue Mountains PrivateSafaris (bluemountainsprivatesafaris.com).

95 NORTH AMERICAJOURNEYTHE EXPERIENCE Travel in high style acrossMontana's Glacier National Park.

Of course you could drive yourself upMontana's Going-to-the-Sun Road to theContinental Divide - but where's the old-fashioned glamour in that? Glacier NationalPark's fleet of 17-passenger red buses withrollback canvas tops dates from the-193os.They're driven by "jammers" - so calledbecause predecessors would "jam" the gearsto cope with the steep gradients. KL

DREAM TO REALITY Delta (delta.com) fliesfrom Australia to Glacier Park InternationalAirport via Los Angeles and Salt Lake City.Stay in the park's historic lodges or nearbyWhitefish. The buses operate 15 park routes(glacierparkinc.com).






96 EUROPEINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Take coffee, cake (andgoulash) at a grand Budapest cafe.

Forget Vienna (hard as that may be). Themarbled, gilded and decidedly decadent NewYork Cafe in Budapest matches or evensurpasses any equivalent salon in the Austriancapital. The cafe, which occupies a prizedsection of the Boscolo Hotel, derives its namefrom the New York Insurance Company thatcommissioned the building, with the cafe itselfopening in 1894. While the place is full ofAmerican tourists, the food is typicallyHungarian, with traditional goulash and aselection of continental tortes that will blowyour mind, and potentially your waistline. AD

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com) flies

regularly to Frankfurt with connections toBudapest on Maley Hungarian Airlines (malev.hu).New York Cafe (newyorkcafe.hu). Budapest isthe starting point of APT's is-day, 14-night"Magnificent Europe" cruise (aptouring.com.au).Stay at Sofitel Hotel Chain Bridge (sofitel.com).

97 AUSTRALIAINDULGENCETHE EXPERIENCE Linger on the cliff top atPort Willunga, South Australia.

To one side there's a kiosk doing a brisk trade inChiko rolls and garfish 'n' chips. Those in theknow (and with a booking), however, will pushthrough a white door leading to the Star ofGreece's fine diner and settle into a candy-striped chair overlooking Gulf St Vincent. For allits casual beach-chic vibe, what comes out ofthe kitchen is serious fare showcasing goodiessuch as Fleurieu Peninsula venison and organicolives from McLaren Vale next door. KL

DREAM TO REALITY Virgin Australia(virginaustralia.com) has regular flights fromSydney and Melbourne to Adelaide. Star ofGreece (starofgreececafe.com.au) is at PortWillunga, an hour's drive south of Adelaide. Stayat Willunga House (willungahouse.com.au).

98 ASIAHISTORYTHE EXPERIENCE Be charmed by Malaysia'scolonial past.

Toby jugs, horse brasses, hunting prints andcream teas - these are hardly the things youmight expect to find in a steamy Malaysianjungle. But they abound at Fraser's Hill, abeautifully preserved hill station from the Britishcolonial era. These days Bukit Fraser (foundedby a colourful Scot, Louis James Fraser)attracts ornithologists (there are more than270 species of birds), golfers, hikers, anglers

41.

--CJ eked into one ofJai:hangs. snowiest,alloys are ancientlarrnhouses withhatched roofs so

-:,teep they look:ike hands joinediii prayer.

WINTER WONDERLAND!(above) Shirakawa-go'sthatched farmhouseshave been awarded WorldHeritage status.






and nostalgia buffs looking for a mock Tudortearoom serving perfect English scones. Mc

DREAM TO REALITY Singapore Airlines(singaporeair.com) has regular flights fromAustralia to Kuala Lumpur via Singapore. Fraser'sHill is 103km from Kuala Lumpur. Catch a trainfrom KL to Kuala Kubu Bharu and then take alocal taxi. More information: tourism.gov.my.

99 ASIACULTURETHE EXPERIENCE Gaze upon Sh rakawa-go'ssuper-sized farmhouses.

Tucked into one of Japan's snowiest valleys areancient farmhouses built on a super-humanscale, with thatched roofs so steep they looklike hands joined in prayer. Gassho means "topray" and it's the name given to these WorldHeritage-listed wonders, many of them guesthouses. What's more, they're photogenic allyear round: snap them during the winterevening "light-ups", in spring when villagersgather to re-thatch roofs, in summer whenthey're reflected in flooded rice paddies, orin autumn during the annual fire drill. KL

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (gantas.com) fliesregularly from Australia to Tokyo. From there,take a train to Nagoya and another to Takayama.

From Takayama, rent a car or take the 50-minutebus ride to Shirakawa-go in Gifu prefecture.More information: jnto.org.au.

100 AUSTRALIANATURETHE EXPERIENCE Swim with whale sharksand stay in tented luxury in Western Australia.

You'll feel far from cast away at Sal Salis. Theeco-sensitive encampment of nine supremelycomfortable tents is set against the dunes just afew metres from the pristine waters of NingalooReef, last year declared a World Heritage site.Crisp outback luxury extends to high threadcounts but few mod cons. That matters lesswith whale sharks just beyond the fringingreef from April to July, and a staggering arrayof other marine life year round. EV

DREAM TO REALITY Qantas (qantas.com) andVirgin Australia (virginaustralia.com) have regularflights to Perth and Skywest Airlines (skywest.com.au) operates daily flights from Perth toLearmonth Airport. For more on the camp, goto the Sal Salis website (salsalis.com.au). GW

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ReadNow clip - 140138583 - Resplendent Ceylon

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