publication.pdf - The Textile Magazine

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Transcript of publication.pdf - The Textile Magazine

PublishersGopali & Co., Quanta Zen Building, No.38, Thomas Road, 2nd Street, Off. South Boag Road, T.Nagar, Chennai-600017. Ph.: 24330979, 42024951. Fax: 044-24332413 Email: [email protected] [email protected]: www.indiantextilemagazine.comFounderM. RajagopalanMentorRajagopalan KalidasanManaging Editor & PublisherR. Natarajan (Mobile: 9381062161 (R) 24343475)Assistant Editor K.N. Ananthanarayanan (Mobile: 9003053132)Executive Editor & General ManagerK. Gopalakrishnan (Mobile: 9840897542)Manager (Advt.)B. VijayaDesignerE. Marimuthu

Mumbai R. BalasubramanianG 102, Shrinagar Co.Op. Housing Society, P.L. Lokande Marg, Chembur (West), Mumbai - 400 089. Ph.: 022-25252377. Cell: 9323711291. Email: [email protected] KalidasanFlat No.A1-42, TVH EkantaNo.5/179, Masakalipalayam RoadUppilipalayam, Coimbatore 641 015.Cell: 97909 26388BangaloreJ. SaravanasundharBS 23, 2nd Floor, Block ‘B’ Ittina Neela, Nr. Gold Coins Club, Andapura, Electronics City P.O.,Bangalore - 560 100. Cell: 9880974765Email: [email protected] INS / AINEC / IFSMANEdited & Published by R. Natarajan on behalf of Gopali & Co., Quanta Zen Building, No.38, Thomas Road, 2nd Street, T.Nagar, Chennai-17, and Printed by B. Ashok Kumar at Rathna Offset Printers, 40, Peters Road, Royapettah, Chennai-14

The views presented herein are those of the authors. They are not necessarily the views of the editor.All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced in any form or by any means, nor OC[�KV�DG�RTKPVGF��RJQVQEQRKGF�QT�UVQTGF�QP�OKETQſNO�YKVJ-out the written permission of the publisher.

Contents6 Editorial

textile scene8 Cotton export under OGL: SIMA appeal for level � SOD\LQJ�ÀHOG

18 Cotton yarn situation eases

corporate news24 Swastik Group – 7 decades of manufacturing excellence

26 Arvind Rub-Web Controls banks on innovation for growth

34 Suvin-Werner partnership to provide consultancy services in textiles

56 Lindström expanding India operations

20 Rieter Textile Systems bullish on future growth prospects

���� 1DYDO·V�VLJQLÀFDQW�SUHVHQFH�DW�,70$

TEXTILE MAGAZINETHE

2 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Vardhman’s growing role as leading integrated textile manufacturer

12

28cover story

SEL Group

setting up

India’s

largest yarn

spinning unit

4 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Young and Bold new editionThe Textile Magazine is 52 years young; and at 52, we wanted to give a refreshing new feel to the magazine. We spoke to our read-ers, subscribers and advertisers to understand their requirement, and based on their inputs, we have given a complete makeover to the maga-zine. We have added new columns, exclusive interviews, classifieds, job opportunities and a dedicated sec-tion tracing the history of the textile industry in India. This is just the first step, and you can expect a lot more in the months to come. We have just changed the look and feel of the magazine, but our commitment to the textile industry remains stronger than ever. We hope you enjoy reading this edition. Do send in your feedback and suggestions to [email protected]

technical textiles96 Centre of Excellence set up for Technical Textiles100 How to improve technical textiles sector in India ? - By Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA

technology106 Atlas Copco GA redefines compressor efficiency

tMMa agM108 Indian Textile Machinery Industry - By Mr. Anuj Bhagwati, President, TMMA*

125 OLD IS GOLD

50 Premier Evolvics will showcase technology leading solutions

52 LRT to strengthen market leadership

36Rajapalayam Mills 75 glorious years of operation

visitor’s guide to itMa 2011

68 Travel guide to ITMA Barcelona 201172 Alok Industries chief to address World Textile Summit74 Interview with Fritz P. Mayer, CEO of Karl Mayer78� 1HZ�7U�W]VFKOHU�&DUG�7&����WR�¿JXUH�DW�%DUFHORQD80 Dornier’s constant focus on innovation sustainability84� %HQQLQJHU�JXLGHOLQHV�RQ�FDUERQ�UHGXFWLRQ�LQ�WH[WLOH�¿QLVKLQJ88 ITEMA Weaving’s latest air jet machine90� /XZD�WR�SUHVHQW�DGYDQFHG�¿OWHU��DLU�FOHDQLQJ�V\VWHPV

57

itMa 2011special editionFor advertising, mail us at:

[email protected]

OUR NEXT ISSUE

Contents

On road to recovery ?An early end to the crisis gripping the Indian textile industry is in sight if the

Textiles Ministry move to revive it is anything to go by. This comes within days

of the comments made in these columns a month back that the setback to the

fortunes of the industry is only temporary and that the Government can only

ill-afford to neglect the interests of this major industry that offers the highest

employment, next only to agriculture, and accounts for the maximum exchange

HDUQLQJV�IRU�WKH�FRXQWU\��7KH�ÀUVW�WKLQJ�WKDW�WKH�,QGXVWU\��&RPPHUFH�0LQ-

ister, Mr. Anand Sharma, who also holds the additional charge of the Textiles

Ministry did was to take a composite view of the situation prevailing in the cot-

ton and yarn industry in the last few days. Realising that imposition of restric-

tions on cotton yarn exports has severely damaged the prospects of more than

3,000 spinning mills in the country, he decided to remove the curbs forthwith.

7KH�VSLQQLQJ�VHFWRU�ZKLFK�KDG�D�VWRFN�RI �PRUH�WKDQ�����PLOOLRQ�NJ�RI �\DUQ�ZLWK�WKH�DUELWUDU\�À[DWLRQ�RI �ceiling of 720 million kg of shipments and withdrawal of export incentives now reports fall in stocks to

around 300 million kg. This is expected to go down further, particularly in the festival season from Sep-

tember when surging demand would substantially help the spinning sector dispose of its products. The

projected demand is from the powerloom, handloom and garmenting segments.

&,7,�VWURQJO\�IHHOV�WKDW�WKH�VSLQQLQJ�LQGXVWU\�GHVHUYHV�D�VSHFLDO�UHOLHI �SDFNDJH�WR�KHOS�LW�WDFNOH�WKH�KXJH�ORVVHV�VXIIHUHG�IROORZLQJ� WKH�UHVWULFWLRQ�RQ�H[SRUWV��ÁXFWXDWLRQV� LQ�FRWWRQ�DQG�\DUQ�SULFHV�DQG�XQSUHF-HGHQWHG�DFFXPXODWLRQ�RI �VWRFNV�RI �ERWK�ÀEUH�DQG�\DUQ��$�WZR�\HDU�PRUDWRULXP�RQ�UHSD\PHQW�RI �ORDQV�and interest is imperative to revive the mills’ operations in full swing in the coming months to avoid re-

WUHQFKPHQW�RI �ZRUNHUV��&DUH�KDV�DOVR�WR�EH�WDNHQ�DJDLQVW�XQSODQQHG�H[SRUW�RI �FRWWRQ�DQG�FRWWRQ�\DUQ�WKDW�would lead to hoarding and speculation resulting in a steep increase in their prices which can’t be passed

on to the users. This is meant mainly to avert the chaos in marketing and unrest as happened at the begin-

ning of the current cotton season.

All indications are that the crisis-ridden textile industry, with the expected relief package from the

Government and RBI, will limp back to normalcy before long. However, considering the US economic

depression, there is little room for complacency. The American crisis aggravated by the downgrading of

its sovering rating would have its impact on India’s exports, particularly textiles. Further, appreciation of

the rupee against the US dollar would blunt India’s competitive edge. There is as yet no clear picture, but

economic experts liken the current US depression to the recession of 2008 that ravaged its economy and

the other economies across the world.

6 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

R. Natarajan, Managing Editor & Publisher

8 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

The predominantly cotton-based

textile industry providing direct and

indirect employment to over 90 mil-

lion people is the single largest em-

ployment provider, next only to ag-

riculture. The industry has invested

over Rs. 2 lakh crores during the

last decade and created new jobs for

over 10 million people, fetching 17

per cent of foreign exchange earn-

ings for the country.

The cotton textile industry was

performing extremely well during

2003-2007, and investments were

doubling year on year mainly due to

the advantage of home-grown cot-

ton. The price stability of cotton

and cotton yarn during this period

enabled the different segments of

the textile industry, right from cotton

IDUPHUV� WR�ÀQLVKHG�JRRGV�� WR�KDYH�D�win-win situation and assured rea-

VRQDEOH�SURÀWDELOLW\�WKURXJKRXW��7KH�problem started with the removal

of cotton textiles from the Essen-

WLDO�&RPPRGLWLHV�$FW�IURP�)HEUXDU\�2008. This enabled multinational cot-

WRQ� WUDGHUV��ÁXVK�ZLWK� IXQGV�DW�QHJ-ligible interest rate, to dominate the

Indian cotton economy and indulge

in price speculation.

Taking advantage of cotton under

Open General Licence and 14 per

cent import duty on cotton, multina-

tional cotton traders exported over 30

lakh bales of cotton in excess of the

TXDQWLW\�HDUPDUNHG�E\�WKH�&RWWRQ�$G-

visory Board during the cotton sea-

son 2007-08, leaving a closing stock

of 35 lakh bales and a stock-to-use

ratio of 15 per cent as against the in-

ternational level of 40 to 50 per cent.

7KH�FRPSHWLQJ�FRXQWULHV� OLNH�&KLQD��Pakistan, Bangladesh, etc., were able

to source Indian cotton at 20 per cent

cheaper price when compared to the

Indian mills owing to import duty,

DEPB / drawback extended for cot-

ton and cheaper means of transport

through foreign vessel.

,QGLDQ� VSLQQLQJ� PLOOV� IRU� WKH� ÀUVW�time in history had to observe a one-

day production stoppage on July 9,

2008, to press the Government to

remove 14 per cent import duty and

one per cent duty drawback given for

FRWWRQ� WR� KDYH� D� OHYHO� SOD\LQJ� ÀHOG��However, the bank interest rate which

was 7.5 per cent in 2007 started hard-

ening and reached almost 15 per cent.

Indian spinning mills, predominantly

small and medium sized in nature; do

not have direct access to imported

Cotton export under OGL: SIMA

appeal for level playing fieldcotton, hedging facilities, and cheap-

er funds, and also cannot handle the

DUELWUDWLRQ� RI � WKH� /LYHUSRRO� &RW-ton Association. And they face the

working capital constraints due to

25 per cent margin money and three

months credit limit at 15 per cent in-

terest rate.

In a press release, Mr. J. Thula-

VLGKDUDQ�� &KDLUPDQ�� 6RXWKHUQ� ,Q-

dia Mills’ Association (SIMA), has

appealed to the Prime Minister to

HQVXUH� D� OHYHO� SOD\LQJ� ÀHOG� IRU� WKH�Indian cotton textile mills before

taking a decision on allowing cotton

export under OGL in the long run.

He has stated that the Empowered

Group of Ministers had promised to

ensure 2½ months closing stock for

the cotton season 2009-10 which was

not implemented.

He said the industry has been de-

manding working capital assistance

at 7 per cent interest rate with 10 per

cent margin money and up to nine

months credit limit to enable Indian

mills to procure cotton during the

peak season (December-March) and

compete with multinational cotton

traders.

7KH�&KLQD�&RWWRQ�5HVHUYH�&RUSR-

ration has been fully protecting the in-

terest of its spinning sector by main-

taining adequate buffer stock and also

does not permit any external agency

WR�WUDGH�&KLQHVH�FRWWRQ�GLUHFWO\��7KH�Indian Government policy has to take

care of ‘aam admi’ and ensure that the

people below the poverty line source

their clothing at affordable cost.

Mr. J. THULASIDHARANSIMA Chairman

textILe SCene

10 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

He has further said that unplanned

export of cotton would lead to

hoarding and speculation resulting in

steep increase in cotton and cotton

yarn prices, which cannot be passed

on to the handloom, powerloom and

garmenting sectors, resulting in chaos

in marketing and industrial unrest as

happened at the beginning of the cur-

rent cotton season.

$FFRUGLQJ�WR�WKH�6,0$�&KDLUPDQ��the surplus cotton projected by the

&RWWRQ�$GYLVRU\�%RDUG� FRXOG�EH� DO-lowed under OGL with effect from

-DQXDU\� ��� WR� DYRLG� DUWLÀFLDO� VFDUFLW\�during the beginning of the season.

+H� KDV� DOVR� VWDWHG� WKDW� WKH� &RWWRQ�&RUSRUDWLRQ� RI � ,QGLD� DQG� 1$)('�should give preference only to ac-

tual consumers and not traders in or-

textILe SCene

der to avoid speculation over cotton

SULFHV�� +H� KDV� VXJJHVWHG� &&,� KROG-

ing 10 lakh bales as buffer stock to

feed small and medium spinning mills

throughout the season as these mills

do not have holding capacity to store

more than two months stock.

Around 60 per cent of the cotton

produced in the country is above

average quality and, therefore, the

policy should be framed in such a

way that Indian spinning mills do not

ÀQG�VFDUFLW\�RI �JRRG�TXDOLW\� FRWWRQ��Working capital assistance to textile

PLOOV� DQG� DGHTXDWH� ÀQDQFLDO� VXSSRUW�WR�&&,�DUH�HVVHQWLDO�IRU�IDUPHUV�WR�JHW�the international price for them dur-

ing the peak season.

He fears that cotton export under

OGL would also encourage the few

PDQ�PDGH� ÀEUH� PDQXIDFWXUHUV� WR�jack up prices, thereby making even

100 per cent polyester and polyester

cotton textile products costlier for the

people below the poverty line, who

are the ultimate consumers. Hence

the need to provide facilities of hedg-

ing.

7KH� 6,0$� &KDLUPDQ� KDV� DOVR�stated that around 80 per cent of the

cotton produced in the country is

consumed by the domestic industry,

WKH� ÀQDQFLDO� KHDOWK� RI � ZKLFK� LV� HV-sential to sustain the cotton area and

ultimately the income for the Indian

farmers. It is necessary, therefore, to

take a cautious decision while permit-

ting cotton export under OGL after

fully protecting the interests of the

mother industry. �

12 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Vardhman Textiles Ltd. (VTL) is one of the largest integrated textile manufac-

turing companies in India. With its strong presence in the Indian textile sector, VTL is known IRU� LWV� ÀEUH�� \DUQ�� VHZLQJ�WKUHDG� DQG� IDEULFV�� ,W� KDV�DOVR� IRUD\HG� LQWR� JDUPHQW�manufacturing through col-ODERUDWLRQ� ZLWK� 1LVVKLQER�of Japan.

VTL and its subsidiaries have 23

manufacturing facilities across India,

employing over 25,000 people. A

market leader in its various product

offerings, the company is one of the

largest yarn manufacturers in India

with a capacity of nine lakh spindles.

It has forged global alliances with

leading textile companies such as

$PHULFDQ��(ÀUG��$(��,QF���0DUX-

EHQL��7RKR�5D\RQ� DQG�1LVVKLQER��both of Japan.

Vardhman Group’s manufacturing

capacities include about 0.9 million

spindles, 65 tons per day yarns and

ÀEUH� G\HLQJ� FDSDFLW\�� ���� VKXWWOHOHVV�looms, about 90 million metres per

annum of fabric processing capac-

Born in 1942, Mr. S.P. Oswal, Chairman of the Vardhman Group, holds a Masters Degree in Com-merce with Gold Medal from Punjab University. He has over 44 years of experience in the textile indus-try. He has been conferred the prestigious Padma Bhushan Award by the President of India for his distinguished service of High Order in the field of Trade and Industry in 2010.

COrpOrAte newS

Mr. S.P. OSWAL, Chairman, Vardhman Group

By K. Gopalakrishnan

THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011 | 13

ity, 33 tons per day sewing thread

and 18,000 metric tons per annum of

DFU\OLF�ÀEUH��7KH�JURXS�LV�RQH�RI �WKH�largest producers and exporters of

cotton yarn, the second largest sew-

ing thread producer and one of the

most modern and integrated compos-

ite mills in the country.

VTL has evolved over the years

from a small beginning in 1965 into

a modern textile major under the dy-

QDPLF�OHDGHUVKLS�RI �LWV�&KDLUPDQ��0U��S.P. Oswal. His vision and foresight

has given VTL an enviable position in

the textile industry. Under his leader-

VKLS��WKH�FRPSDQ\�LV�HIÀFLHQWO\�XVLQJ�resources to innovate, diversify, inte-

grate and build its diverse operations

into a dynamic modern enterprise.

In 2010-11, VTL clocked a turno-

ver of $890 million as compared to

$668 million in the previous year.

Exports increased from $159 million

in 2009-10 to $282 million in 2010-

11 mainly due to price rise and better

product and market penetration.

In 2010-11, yarn production in-

creased from 126,146 MT to 130,861

MT. In the fabric business, grey fab-

rics production was about 114 million

metres against 108 million metres the

previous year, and sales was about

113 million metres against 108 mil-

lion metres. Production of processed

fabric increased from 60.78 million

metres to 75.44 million metres, show-

ing an increase of 24.12 per cent over

the previous year.

Capacity expansionVTL has planned an investment of

Rs. 750 crores in expanding capac-

ity over the next couple of years. Its

spinning capacity will increase from

9,00,000 spindles to over one million

spindles. VTL will also add some 430

looms and expand dyeing capacity.

Of the capex planned, there are

three projects under implementation.

There is proposed capacity addition

of 20,000 spindles in VSM, 55,000

spindles in Anant, Mandideep, which

COrpOrAte newS

14 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

will be completed by December 2011.

Almost 60 per cent of the compa-

ny’s revenues come from yarn manu-

facturing. The major products turned

out are normal cotton yarns, com-

pact yarns, blended yarns, polyester

and acrylic blended yarns, core spun

yarns, MBS yarns, open end yarns,

hand knitting yarns and acrylic yarns.

Fabrics contribute 21 per cent of

97/·V� WRWDO� EXVLQHVV�� &RQWLQXLQJ� LWV�onward march up the value chain,

the group entered fabric business in

1992 with Greige (unprocessed) fab-

ric. Subsequently VTL entered the

processed fabric market in 1999. The

current capacity is 900 looms and 90

million metres of processed fabric

per annum. One of the few fully inte-

grated fabric suppliers in the country,

VTL produces specialized fabrics like

yarn dyed, special white, melanges,

nylon, modal and linen. It also offers

VSHFLDOL]HG�ÀQLVKHV�OLNH�OLTXLG�DPPR-

COrpOrAte newS

!e Vardhman Group, an established corporate under the able leadership of Mr. S.P. Oswal, is the brand to reckon with in the Indian textile industry. Vardhman is having the biggest spindle base in India with the "gure touch-ing almost one million. Apart from spindles, it is a big player in sewing thread and weaving, and has now ventured into garmenting.

!e far-sightedness of Mr. Oswal is instrumental in the consistent growth of the group. !e group is very much technology driven and always wants to try the latest and best technology available. A.T.E. is consistently attached to this group for supplying the latest and the best technology available in the textile value chain – Truetzschler, Zinser, Volkmann, Fongs, Monforts, Karl Mayer, etc. A.T.E. cherishes and values the relationship with Vardhman as it creates a good learning and a win-win situation in the business growth of both of them.

– Mr. G.V. Aras, Director, A.T.E. Marketing Private Ltd

16 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

QLD��WHÁRQ���QDQRFDUH��RLO��ZDWHU�UH-pellent), ETI, etc.

Sewing threadAnother very important segment

is sewing thread which

contributes to 10 per

cent of total revenues.

The group entered the

thread business in 1982

as a forward integra-

tion to its yarn business.

VTL’s current capac-

ity is 33 tpd across four

plants, in Punjab, Tamil

1DGX� DQG� +LPDFKDO�Pradesh. In 2002, the

company entered into

a strategic alliance as a

OLFHQVHH� ZLWK� $(� IRU�manufacturing and dis-

tribution of its branded

sewing threads in India.

In 2008, this business

was spun off into a new

company, Vardhman

<DUQV� � 7KUHDGV� /WG���and entered into a 51:49

MRLQW�YHQWXUH�ZLWK�$(��The JV has increased the

production capacity for

FRUH� VSLQQLQJ� DQG� ÀOD-PHQW�WKUHDGV�ZLWK�$(·V�TXDOLW\�SD-rameters.

VTL ventured into manufacture of

DFU\OLF�VWDSOH�ÀEUH�LQ������WKURXJK�LWV�

subsidiary Vardhman Acrylics Ltd.

The plant was set up in Gujarat in

FROODERUDWLRQ� ZLWK� 0DUXEHQL� � -D-pan Exlan. The company has capac-

ity of 20,000 mtpa. It offers world

class wet spun technology with highly

automated, microprocessor control-

led systems. The company’s products

are marketed under the brand name

9$5/$1��,W�LV�XVHG�LQ�PDQXIDFWXULQJ�hand-knitted yarns, blankets, jerseys,

sweater, saris, upholster, carpets, etc.

9DUGKPDQ� 1LVVKLQER� *DUPHQWV�&RPSDQ\� /WG�� �91*/��� LV� D� MRLQW�venture partnership of 51:49 with

1LVVKLQER� 7H[WLOHV� ,QF��� -DSDQ�� IRU�manufacturing world class shirts. The

new JV started production during

the fag-end of 2010-11. The current

capacity on a full operational basis

is 1.2 million shirts per year, and the

company will be adding some capac-

ity and take it to 1.8 million shirts in

the near future.

VTL’s yarn exports are primarily

WR�WKH�(8��&KLQD��%DQJODGHVK��-DSDQ�and South Korea. South America is

another market that the company is

focusing on. As far as fabric is con-

cerned, exports are mainly to Bang-

ladesh and Sri Lanka. �

OutLOOk fOr 2011-12

Vardhman Textiles Ltd. achieved a turnover of Rs. 960.22 crores during the quarter ended June 30, 2011, as against Rs. 806.71 crores in the corresponding quarter last year. !e company has achieved PBDIT and PAT of Rs. 43.63 crores and Rs. 43.08 crores respectively during the quarter as against Rs. 183.25 crores and Rs. 78.72 crores respectively.

For the second quarter (July-September 2011), the management expects that there will not be fur-ther mark to market losses on inventories provided the cotton prices don’t move southward further.

Meanwhile, the business scenario looks tough for the remaining part of the year. But the manage-ment will remain vigilant and deal with the situation with prudence and foresight. Nevertheless, the year will be full of challenges with their impact on the company performance.

COrpOrAte newS

18 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

The spinning industry of the coun-

try, which had a stock of more than

500 million kg of cotton yarn follow-

ing last year’s restrictions on exports,

KDV�UHSRUWHG�VLJQLÀFDQW�HDVLQJ�RI �WKH�cotton yarn stock position.

In a press release, Mr. Shishir Jaipu-

ULD��&KDLUPDQ��&RQIHGHUDWLRQ�RI �,QGL-DQ�7H[WLOH�,QGXVWU\��&,7,���KDV�VWDWHG�that from May 23 onwards spinning

mills all over the country had resorted

WR� VLJQLÀFDQW� SURGXFWLRQ� FXWV�� &XU-rently 25-30 per cent of capacity for

cotton yarn production in the country

is lying idle.

Meanwhile, restrictions on cotton

yarn exports have been lifted by the

Government and the current exports

are comparable with those of the

same period last year. There has also

been some positive movement in do-

mestic demand for cotton yarn and

the trend is expected to continue.

Mr. Jaipuria explained that from a

peak level of 500 million kg, cotton

yarn stocks with mills have now come

down to around 350 million kg and

are expected to come down further

in the coming months. The festival

season in the country starting from

6HSWHPEHU� FRXOG� VHH� VLJQLÀFDQW� LP-

provement in demand for all textile

products which will help the spinning

sector in disposing of the accumu-

lated stocks of cotton yarn.

&,7,� KDV� VRXJKW� D� FRPSUHKHQVLYH�Government relief package for the

spinning industry in order to tackle

the losses suffered by it in recent

months because of restrictions on

FRWWRQ� \DUQ� H[SRUWV�� ÁXFWXDWLRQ� LQ�cotton and cotton yarn prices and ac-

FXPXODWLRQ� RI � VWRFNV� ERWK� RI � ÀEUH�and yarn.

Mr. Jaipuria has stated that with the

Cotton yarn situation easesimprovement in demand, the spin-

ning industry is expected to come out

of its present crisis during the second

KDOI � RI � WKH� FXUUHQW� ÀVFDO��+RZHYHU��PLOOV�ZLOO�ÀQG�LW�H[WUHPHO\�GLIÀFXOW�WR�UHSD\� ORDQV�DQG�ÀQG�ZRUNLQJ�FDSLWDO�in the coming months because of the

KXJH� ORVVHV� WKH\�VXIIHUHG� LQ� WKH�ÀUVW�KDOI �RI �WKH�ÀVFDO��&,7,�KDV�VRXJKW�D�two-year moratorium on repayment

of loans and interest and a few other

facilities from the Reserve Bank of

India, in order to avoid the accounts

becoming non-performing assets.

7KH� LQGXVWU\� LV� FRQÀGHQW��KH� VDLG��that the current challenges can be met

with the reliefs sought from the Gov-

ernment and RBI. It can also revive

its operations in full during the com-

ing months and avoid retrenchment

of workers. �

Mr. SHISHIR JAIPURIAChairman, CITI

textILe SCene

20 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

The Rieter Group embarked on

a historic change of course in the

spring of 2011. Shareholders ap-

proved a proposal by the Board of

Directors to separate the group and

for its two divisions engaged in the

textile machinery and the automo-

tive components supply business re-

spectively, to continue in operation as

independent, separately listed com-

panies. Following the completion of

this separation, Rieter has become an

industrially focused supplier of ma-

chinery and components for short

VWDSOH�ÀEHU�VSLQQLQJ�PLOOV��It pursues the operating business of

the former Rieter Textile Systems Di-

vision through two business groups,

Spun Yarn Systems (machinery) and

3UHPLXP�7H[WLOH�&RPSRQHQWV��FRP-

SRQHQWV���:LWK�WKH�SXEOLFDWLRQ�RI �ÀJ-XUHV�IRU�WKH�ÀUVW�KDOI �RI �������5LHWHU�LV� UHSRUWLQJ� IRU� WKH� ÀUVW� WLPH� LQ� WKH�

context of this new structure.

Rieter recorded a pleasing trend of

EXVLQHVV�LQ�WKH�ÀUVW�KDOI �RI �������FRQ-

tinuing the positive development re-

SRUWHG�LQ�������1HZ�RUGHUV�UHFHLYHG�were again at a high level, totalling

������PLOOLRQ�&+)��7KLV�UHSUHVHQWHG�a decline of 9 per cent compared to

WKH� H[FHSWLRQDOO\� KLJK� ÀJXUH� LQ� WKH�same period of the previous year,

but is still above the long-term aver-

age. Sales increased by 66 per cent to

������PLOOLRQ�&+)��([SUHVVHG�LQ�ORFDO�currencies the increase amounted to

73 per cent.

Rieter posted a disproportionately

strong rise in the operating result

before interest and taxes, which in-

FUHDVHG� IURP� �� PLOOLRQ� &+)� LQ� WKH�ÀUVW� KDOI � RI � ����� WR� ����� PLOOLRQ�&+)��7KLV�FRUUHVSRQGV�WR�DQ�RSHUDW-ing margin of 12.8 per cent of corpo-

UDWH�RXWSXW��1HW�SURÀW�DOVR�GHYHORSHG�

positively, rising from 7.5 million

&+)�WR����PLOOLRQ�&+)��ERRVWHG�E\�D�QHW�FDSLWDO�JDLQ�RI ������PLOOLRQ�&+)��Excluding capital gains, it amounted

to 8.8 per cent of corporate output.

5LHWHU� DOVR� LQWHQVLÀHG� FDSLWDO� H[SHQ-

diture in the major Asian growth mar-

kets and pressed on with the devel-

opment of products adapted to local

needs in emerging markets.

The markets for textile machinery

and components continued to de-

YHORS�DSDFH�LQ�WKH�ÀUVW�KDOI �RI �������HVSHFLDOO\� LQ� WKH� ÀUVW� TXDUWHU�� 7KH\�levelled off slightly in the second

quarter. Expectations of a further de-

cline in the price of cotton and con-

sequently in yarn increased the pres-

sure on spinning mills’ margins and

liquidity.

In this market environment Rieter’s

intake of new orders remained at a

high level due to its market-oriented

Mr. ERWIN STOLLERExecutive Chairman

COver StOry

22 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

SURGXFWV��WRWDOOLQJ�������PLOOLRQ�&+)�LQ�WKH�ÀUVW�VL[�PRQWKV�RI �������7KLV�corresponds to a slight decrease of 9

per cent compared to the exception-

ally high level recorded in the same

period of the previous year (738.6

PLOOLRQ�&+)���There was strong demand for prod-

ucts of both Rieter’s business groups,

Spun Yarn Systems and Premium

7H[WLOH� &RPSRQHQWV�� 'HPDQG� ZDV�also broad-based in regional terms.

Rieter recorded the largest volume

of orders in the Indian, Turkish and

&KLQHVH�PDUNHWV�� +LJK� OHYHOV� RI � RU-ders were secured in other Asian

countries such as South Korea, Indo-

nesia and Pakistan. Spinning mills in

the US, Brazil and Egypt also invested

LQ�VWDSOH�ÀEHU�PDFKLQHU\�DQG�FRPSR-

nents from Rieter.

The high level of orders already in

hand at the beginning of the year con-

tinued to grow on the back of healthy

RUGHU�LQWDNH�LQ�WKH�ÀUVW�VL[�PRQWKV�RI �2011. This meant that Rieter’s pro-

duction capacity was utilized to the

limit, resulting in long delivery times

in some cases. Sales of 537.8 million

&+)�ZHUH����SHU�FHQW�KLJKHU�WKDQ�LQ�the same period of the previous year.

&RUSRUDWH� RXWSXW� DOVR� LQFUHDVHG� E\����SHU�FHQW�WR�������PLOOLRQ�&+)��([-change rates, especially the strength

of the Swiss franc, had a negative im-

pact on new orders received by Rieter

and on sales revenues to the tune of

–4 and –7 percentage points, respec-

WLYHO\��LQ�WKH�ÀUVW�KDOI �RI �������As of June 30, 2011, the company

employed a workforce of 4,725, com-

pared with 4,064 on the same date the

previous year. The increase in person-

nel numbers was due largely to the

expansion of facilities in the growth

PDUNHWV� RI � ,QGLD� DQG� &KLQD�� 7KH�number of temporary employees was

also increased in order to satisfy the

large volume of orders.

Separation completedThe separation of the Rieter Group

into two independent companies

focusing on the textile machinery

and automotive components supply

business respectively, which was an-

nounced on March 22, 2011 and ap-

proved at the annual general meeting

held on April 13, has been completed

as planned. The automotive compo-

nent supply business has been listed

as Autoneum Holding AG on the SIX

Swiss Exchange since May 13.

The focus on the textile machinery

business enables Rieter to position

itself more clearly and operate with

JUHDWHU� VWUDWHJLF� ÁH[LELOLW\�� 5HSRUWLQJ�in the context of the two segments –

Spun Yarn Systems and Premium Tex-

WLOH�&RPSRQHQWV�²�FUHDWHV�JUHDWHU�WUDQV-parency and visibility for shareholders.

With its sound balancesheet, Rieter

is well placed to achieve further de-

velopment of the business through

internal and external growth.

Spun Yarn SystemsThrough its Spun Yarn Systems

Business Group, Rieter is the only

supplier worldwide covering the spin-

ning preparation processes and all

IRXU� ÀQDO� VSLQQLQJ� SURFHVVHV� HVWDE-

lished on the market with its machin-

ery and systems.

Spun Yarn Systems received new

orders of the value of 552.7 million

&+)�LQ�WKH�SHULRG�XQGHU�UHYLHZ��7KLV�ÀJXUH�ZDV� ��� SHU� FHQW� ORZHU� WKDQ� D�year earlier, but was still at an above-

DYHUDJH� OHYHO� ������� PLOOLRQ� &+)� LQ�WKH�ÀUVW� KDOI � RI � �������'HPDQG� IRU�PDUNHW�VSHFLÀF� SURGXFWV� GHYHORSHG�to meet the needs of the major Asian

markets was an important factor here.

COver StOry

THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011 | 23

Rieter competed successfully with

local manufacturers, in particular with

its G 32 ring spinning machine, R 923

semi-automatic rotor spinning ma-

chine and RSB-D 22 drawframe. Sales

RI �������PLOOLRQ�&+)�E\�6SXQ�<DUQ�Systems were 88 per cent above the

ÀJXUH�UHFRUGHG�LQ�WKH�VDPH�SHULRG�RI �WKH�SUHYLRXV�\HDU��������PLOOLRQ�&+)�LQ�WKH�ÀUVW�KDOI �RI ��������

While the business group posted

an operating loss of 13.4 million

&+)� LQ� WKH� ÀUVW� KDOI � RI � ������ WKH�operating result before interest and

taxes in the period under review rose

WR������PLOOLRQ�&+)��7KLV�LV�HTXLYD-lent to 11 per cent of corporate out-

put. The positive trend in the operat-

ing margin was largely due to good

capacity utilization and the ongoing

improvement in product manufac-

turing costs.

Premium Textile Components7KURXJK�LWV�3UHPLXP�7H[WLOH�&RP-

ponents Business Group, Rieter has

emerged one of the world’s largest

suppliers of components for short

staple spinning mills. Premium Tex-

WLOH�&RPSRQHQWV�VXSSOLHV�WHFKQRORJ\�components both to spinning mills

and to various machine manufactur-

ers. This business is less exposed than

WKH� PDFKLQHU\� EXVLQHVV� WR� ÁXFWXD-tions in market cycles that are charac-

teristic of the industry.

1HZ� RUGHUV� UHFHLYHG� E\� 3UHPLXP�7H[WLOH� &RPSRQHQWV� LQFUHDVHG� E\� ��SHU�FHQW�WR�������PLOOLRQ�&+)�LQ�WKH�ÀUVW�VL[�PRQWKV�RI �����������PLOOLRQ�&+)�LQ�WKH�ÀUVW�KDOI �RI ��������*URZ-

ing demand for high-quality yarns

had a positive impact on sales of

products. The business group’s sales

revenues increased by 21 per cent to

������PLOOLRQ�&+)�LQ�WKH�SHULRG�XQ-

GHU� UHYLHZ� ������PLOOLRQ�&+)� LQ� WKH�ÀUVW�KDOI �RI ��������

Due largely to good capacity utili-

zation, but also to further improve-

ments in manufacturing processes,

3UHPLXP�7H[WLOH�&RPSRQHQWV�SRVWHG�a disproportionately strong rise in the

operating result before interest and

taxes. This amounted to 21.9 million

&+)� ����� PLOOLRQ� &+)� LQ� WKH� ÀUVW�half of 2010), corresponding to an

operating margin of 14.6 per cent of

corporate output (8.8 per cent in the

ÀUVW�KDOI �RI ��������Investment in long-term development

Both of Rieter’s business groups,

Spun Yarn Systems and Premium Tex-

WLOH�&RPSRQHQWV��ZRUNHG�LQWHQVLYHO\�RQ�innovations. The goals of these efforts

include facilitating the creation of novel

types of yarn, achieving further im-

provements in the price/performance

ratio of the products and thus meeting

the needs of customers in the growth

markets even more effectively. Both the

groups will exhibit innovations in their

product portfolios at ITMA 2011 in

Barcelona in September.

Rieter has also continued to expand

its facilities in the major markets of

,QGLD�DQG�&KLQD��&DSLWDO�H[SHQGLWXUH�LQ�WKH�ÀUVW�KDOI �RI ������WRWDOOHG������PLOOLRQ�&+)��FRPSDUHG�WR�����PLOOLRQ�&+)�LQ�WKH�VDPH�SHULRG�RI �WKH�SUHYL-ous year. The company also launched

projects to improve processes aimed

DW� PRUH� HIÀFLHQW� JOREDO� QHWZRUNLQJ�of the business.

OutlookRieter expects the decrease in order

intake to continue in the second half

RI �WKH�\HDU�FRPSDUHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW�VL[�months. Order intake for 2011 as a

whole is unlikely to equal the previ-

ous year’s extraordinarily high total.

Pressure on customers’ margins and

liquidity might persist in the second

half of 2011.

,W� LV� FXUUHQWO\� GLIÀFXOW� WR� IRUHFDVW�whether the factors that are impact-

ing the markets are short-lived or will

continue for a prolonged period. Fur-

ther developments depend on vari-

ous factors, which include exchange

rate developments, consumer senti-

PHQW�LQ�(XURSH�DQG�1RUWK�$PHULFD��JURZWK�LQ�ÀEHU�FRQVXPSWLRQ�LQ�$VLD�and raw material prices.

The high level of orders in hand

secures capacity utilization and sales

UHYHQXHV�LQ�WKH�FXUUHQW�ÀQDQFLDO�\HDU�and well into the coming year. Rieter

will continue to pursue the expansion

of facilities in Asia, product develop-

ments and process improvements in

the second half of 2011.

The company expects a substantial

increase in sales compared with the

previous year and double-digit oper-

ating margins for the year as a whole.

COver StOry

24 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Swastik Textile, a processing machinery manu-facturer with over seven decades of textile exper-tise, was started as a trading company in 1936 as an o#shoot of an Anglo-Italian company. !e JV with the Italian company ended in the 1970s. Since then the company has been on its own with full-$edged design and engineering operations.

Swastik’s key strength lies in manufacturing custom-

built machines rather than mass market products, and this

has been its success mantra for several decades. “We don’t

believe in forcing a customer to buy what we offer but to

deliver him what he needs”, says Mr. Amit Mehta, Direc-

tor, Swastik Textile Engineers Private Ltd.

Swastik offers the complete range of textile wet pro-

FHVVLQJ��ÀQLVKLQJ�PDFKLQHV��IURP�VFRXULQJ�DQG�EOHDFK-

6ZDVWLN�*URXS���GHFDGHV�RI�PDQXIDFWXULQJ�H[FHOOHQFH

LQJ�WR�ÀQLVKLQJ�DQG�IROGLQJ��ZLWK�WKH�ODWHVW�IXOO\�DXWRPDWLF�control instruments for a variety of fabrics made of natu-

UDO�DQG�V\QWKHWLF�ÀEHUV��LQFOXGLQJ�FRWWRQ��SRO\HVWHU��ZRRO��viscose and silk and for various woven, knitted, terry, tu-

bular knitted fabrics. It also offers coating ranges and RFL

dipping lines as well as special-purpose machines for all

requirements.

Swastik exports to over 16 countries around the globe

account for 40-60 per cent of its total business. Some of

the major markets include South America, Egypt, West

Africa and South Asian countries.

The company will have its large presence at ITMA, with

its stall enjoying a special locational advantage. It is aim-

ing to attract visitors from three regions of Africa, South

America and East Europe.

At ITMA, Swastik will be displaying three different

products from three different sections – the merceriser,

representing the wet processing section, the rotary print-

ing machine with servo drives, a new concept to a lot of

emerging markets in the printing sector, and a tubular fab-

ric knit compactor in the knit fabric segment.

The company has three manufacturing facilities in and

around Ahmedabad producing a variety of items for the

textile industry. It also has an in-house development and

design team to cater to all the customer needs and require-

ments. �

Mr. AMIT MEHTA, Director

COrpOrAte newS

By Ganesh Kalidas

26 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

The Ahmedabad-based Arvind

5XE�:HE� &RQWUROV� /WG�� �$5:&/���established in 1984 by Mr. Rajnikant

Patel, has completed 26 years of in-

novation, which is the company’s

inherent strength. It has achieved

150 per cent growth in the past two

years, and the graph keeps climbing

upward.

)RU�WKH�WH[WLOH�LQGXVWU\��$5:&/�LV�manufacturing rubber rollers, rubber

expanders (spreader rollers), special-

ly developed tube rolls, cloth guider

UROOV��UXEEHU�WXEHV��VFUHHQ�H[SRVLQJ�tubes, trough rollers, rubber blankets

(zero blanket) for sanforising, etc.

Also, the company has developed

specialized and proven rubber rollers

for use in different textile machines.

Rollers with specialized rubber

composites are offered for various

textile processes like mercerising,

desizing, singering, steaming, wash-

ing, squizzing, drying, sanforising,

etc. Also offered are a range of coat-

ings with varied properties like hard-

ness, working temperature, aeromatic

chemical resistance, dynamic prop-

erties, abrasion resistance and solid

bonding.

The company covers over 70 per

cent of the Indian textile market,

SDUWLFXODUO\� IRU� UXEEHU� � H[SDQGHU�rollers. The rollers come with rib con-

struction to ensure sturdiness. The

nip roller has been acknowledged as

one of the most outstanding innova-

tions by the company.

$W�,70$��$5:&/�ZLOO�EH�ODXQFK-

ing rubber blanket and trough roller

as well as two new yet proven prod-

ucts of world class quality.

Arvind rub-web Controls banks

on innovation for growth

Under the dynamic leadership of

0U�� 5DMQLEKDL� 3DWHO�� $5:&/� LV� XQ-

dergoing huge expansion plans. It has

set up a new manufacturing facility in

an area measuring 65,000 sq.ft. out of

the total land area of 140,000 sq.ft. It

has also installed state-of-the-art ma-

chines at this facility.

The company is planning to further

expand capacity in the near future.

Mr. RAJNIKANT PATEL, Chairman & Managing Director

COrpOrAte newS

28 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

COver StOry

By K. Gopalakrishnan

THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011 | 29

The Ludhiana-based SEL Group is an integrated textile conglomerate with

a vision to make a major leap forward and build a sustainable, growth-oriented and socially responsible corporate entity.

SEL has at last realised its dream of setting up India’s

largest yarn spinning unit at a single location with a ca-

pacity of 4,00,000 spindles consisting of 326,400 spin-

dles in ring spinning, 2,400 spindles in vortex spinning

DQG�������URWRUV�LQ�RSHQ�HQG�VSLQQLQJ��7KH�ÀUVW�SKDVH�partly commenced operations in April last at Mehatwara

LQ�6HKRUH�GLVWULFW�RI �0DGK\D�3UDGHVK��&RPPHUFLDO�SUR-

duction at this unit commenced in a record time of less

than six months from the start of construction and has

thus set a benchmark in implementation.

The company is investing Rs. 1,920 crores in this large

project, a landmark in itself as on a stretch of over 150

km from Bhopal to Dewas there is no industrial unit of

this size. The plant is being equipped with the state-of-

the-art machinery supplied by Indian and global manu-

facturers. Besides generating employment opportuni-

ties, the project would contribute to bringing about the

much-needed socio-economic upliftment of the region.

7KH�6(/�*URXS��XQGHU�WKH�VWHZDUGVKLS�RI �LWV�&KDLU-man, Mr. R.S. Saluja, has nurtured a dynamic business

ODQGVFDSH��0U��1HHUDM� 6DOXMD��0DQDJLQJ�'LUHFWRU�� DQG�Mr. Dhiraj Saluja, Joint Managing Director, have added

WR�WKH�PRUDO�VWUHQJWK�RI �WKH�&KDLUPDQ�ZLWK�WKHLU�IRUPL-dable leadership. Headquartered in Ludhiana, the group

started its journey in 1969 as a hosiery unit manufac-

turing readymade garments. From a humble beginning,

SEL has graduated into a $400 million integrated textile

group with a targeted capacity of one million spindles.

&RYHULQJ� WKH�FRPSOHWH�YDOXH�FKDLQ�RI � WH[WLOH� LQGXVWU\��with core interests in yarns, fabrics, terry towels and

readymade garments, the group has registered consis-

tent growth over the years. Sound ethics and value sys-

tem are basic to SEL’s activities.

0U��1HHUDM� 6DOXMD�� ZLWK� KLV� LQQRYDWLYH� DSSURDFK� DQG�

COver StOry

SEL has been ranked 21st as per total income in the textiles sector in Dun & Bradstreet’s In-dia’s Top 500 Companies 2010.

30 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

dexterity, is steering the group through

WKH�PRVW�VLJQLÀFDQW�DQG�DUGXRXV�SKDVH�in its history. Keeping pace with the

complex requirements of the industry,

the group is undertaking new as well as

expansion projects spread across vari-

ous States in India.

One of the subsidiary compa-

nies, SEL Textiles Ltd., is setting up

a state-of-the-art yarn spinning unit

with a capacity of 1,88,160 spindles in

Punjab. It will be the largest spinning

unit at a single location in the State,

generating substantial employment

opportunities. This subsidiary too is

undertaking expansion in capacities

RI �LWV�VSLQQLQJ�XQLWV�DW�1HHPUDQD�LQ�Rajasthan and Hansi in Haryana by

adding over 60,000 spindles.

Another group company has also

acquired a spinning unit with a ca-

pacity of about 70,000 spindles near

Vadodara in Gujarat which will be

made operational after refurbishing

and modernization. The group’s con-

sistent initiatives to maximize manu-

IDFWXULQJ� HIÀFLHQF\� ZKLOH� DFKLHYLQJ�supply chain excellence, and close

collaboration with large vendor net-

ZRUNV�DQG�VDOHV�RIÀFHV�WKDW�DUH�FORVHU�

WR� WKH�FXVWRPHUV�HQVXUH�ÁH[LEOH�DQG�fast solutions at unparalled turn-

around times.

The SEL Group is also expanding

its capacity of terry towels manufac-

turing from the current 45 tons to

about 100 tons per day within one

year. Once the increased capacity is

operational, SEL will become one of

the largest towel manufacturers in In-

dia.

The group has enjoyed its pres-

ence in garments since 1960s. Having

developed well-knit in-house inte-

gration in yarns and fabric and their

COver StOry

!e tremendous and rapid growth of this company in the last three to four years has placed SEL on the textile map of India. Young and dynamic Mr. Neeraj Saluja is driving his company to new heights under the able assistance of Mr. V.K. Goyal, CEO. A.T.E. is a partner to SEL in a big way by supplying over 150 Truetzschler carding machines and the latest German Zinser machines to the new installation coming up in Madhya Pradesh.

!e group is also growing into the terry towel manufacturing segment. It has a process house and also sizable capacity for garment manufacturing. A.T.E appre-ciates the growth strategy of SEL which has put the company in a higher orbit now. In its opinion, the best is yet to come for this promising group.

– Mr. G.V. Aras, Director, A.T.E. Marketing Private Ltd

THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011 | 31

Mr. NEERAJ SALUJA Managing Director

COver StOry

32 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

processing, it has utilised its decades

of experience and expertise in gar-

ment making to gain market share

not only in terms of volumes but also

of high-end varieties. An integrated

textile and apparel park being set up

DW� 1DZDQ� 6KDKU� WKURXJK� DQ� 639� LV�nearing completion. This park will

be a one-stop shop for knitting, em-

broidery, printing, washing, labelling,

packing, etc. With this project, com-

bined with the proposed expansion,

the group’s annual garment manufac-

turing capacity would increase from

20 million at present to over 50 mil-

lion knitted garments.

,Q� WKH� SDVW� \HDUV�� WKH� ÀQDQFLDO�growth of SEL has been north-

bound. In 2010-11, it achieved a con-

solidated turnover of Rs. 1,726.42

crores as compared to Rs. 967.83

crores in the previous year. The earn-

ings before depreciation, interest and

tax stood at Rs. 311.03 crores while

SURÀW�DIWHU�WD[�ZDV�5V���������FURUHV�in the year ended March 31, 2011.

0U��1HHUDM�6DOXMD�VWURQJO\�IHHOV�WKDW�the Indian textile industry is sure to

dominate the world by 2020 as it has

huge potential to increase its share

in the world trade. This is mainly be-

cause of the growing shift in sourc-

ing from developed countries to Asia,

This gives an edge to SEL in terms of

its proximity to the port, availability

of labour, raw material, power logis-

WLFV�� DQG� ÀQDOO\� HIÀFLHQW� GHOLYHUDEOHV�to customers.

$�JUHDW�YLVLRQDU\��0U��1HHUDM�6DOXMD�is of the view that forward and back-

ward integration is extremely impor-

tant for long-term competitiveness

RI �EXVLQHVV��TXDOLW\�FRQWURO��HIÀFLHQW�manufacturing and continuous in-

house product innovation. On the

&65� IURQW�� 6(/� HQVXUHV� WKDW� HFR�friendly practices are adopted across

HYHU\� PDQXIDFWXULQJ� SURFHVV�� (IÁX-

ent treatment with the latest technol-

ogy is accorded the highest priority.

He also asserts that the human

resources of the ever-growing SEL

family, combined with healthy work

practices, innovation and state-of-

the-art technology, would take the

group to greater heights. �

A front view of the production facility at Mehatwara

COver StOry

particularly India. Simultaneous to its

presence across the entire textile val-

ue chain, SEL which will become an

even more integral part of the Indian

textile industry also enjoys a strategic

spread across many States – Punjab,

Haryana, Himachal Pradesh, Rajas-

than, Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat.

34 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

The US-based Werner Interna-

tional, a globally renowned consulting

ÀUP� VLQFH� ������ KDV� SDUWQHUHG� ZLWK�Suvin Advisors to provide consultan-

cy service to the Indian textile indus-

try. The partnership aims to provide

value-added services such as bench-

marking assignments, modernization

VWXGLHV�� WHFKQLFDO� DXGLWV�� PHUJHUV� �acquisitions and strategic tie-ups.

Werner has been providing services

to textile and apparel industries from

cottonseed cultivation and textile

manufacturing to retailing, including

mergers and acquisitions and market-

ing tie-ups. Werner’s services range

from industrial and technology sup-

port for setting up, improving and

restructuring textile and clothing

manufacturing operations to strategy

and marketing services for new mar-

ket entry, new product development,

supply chain management, branding,

retailing, partner search and future

strategies build-up. It is active in mar-

NHWV� OLNH� ,QGLD�� &KLQD�� (J\SW�� 9LHW-QDP��&DPERGLD�DQG�%DQJODGHVK��

Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd., a Pavitra

Group company with a well-experi-

enced and dynamic team, is providing

management consultancy services,

project management consultancy ser-

vices and construction management

consultancy services. It is in line with

its collaborative approach and part-

nering with the best in specialization

that Suvin has joined hands with Wer-

ner.

Mr. Manohar Kanitkar, Managing

Director of Werner India, who joined

Suvin-werner partnership to provide

FRQVXOWDQF\�VHUYLFHV�LQ�WH[WLOHVthe company’s Indian operations a

decade ago, says that the company’s

ÀUVW�SURMHFW�ZDV� IRU�7HVVLWXUD�0RQWL�India Pvt. Ltd. at Kolhapur. Thereaf-

ter Werner has worked with Welspun,

Soktas, etc.

Spinning is a strong point of Wer-

ner. Mr. Alain Mathieu has worked

throughout his life in the spinning

industry and has consulting experi-

ence in spinning in 32 countries. Simi-

larly Mr. Avinash Mukund of Suvin

started his career in spinning and has

good experience in undertaking spin-

ning projects with his team. Werner

and Suvin have international exper-

tise available for weaving, processing

and garmenting as well. Suvin has its

expertise in technical textiles too.

Suvin and Werner have come out

with a solution to discuss with asso-

ciations as well as government bodies

to bring them all under one banner as

an operational hub and give services.

In India the biggest problem fac-

ing the textile industry is quality and

quantity of labour. Werner believes

in a systematic approach based on 70

years of experience wherein workers

are trained on job by experts and a

systematic operational manual is pre-

pared. Through stringent selection

criteria, the right type of trainers are

trained who, in turn, train other work-

ers.

Suvin and Werner have collabo-

rated together understanding each

other’s strengths. They have jointly

decided their scope of services to

complement each other and render

service at an affordable cost in India

as well as abroad. �

Mr. Alain Mathieu, Executive Vice President, Werner International and Mr. Avinash Mayekar, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd

COrpOrAte newS

36 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Rajapalayam Mills Ltd., one of the most respected names in the In-dian textile industry, has just completed 75 years of steady growth. It was established by P.A.C. Ramasamy Raja, Founder of the Ramco

Group of Companies, in 1936 after his visit to England to study industrial development there. A nationalist at heart, he was keen to provide gainful employment to a large number of people of his home town and utilise the cotton grown in this area.

exCLuSIve

By K. Gopalakrishnan

THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011 | 37

P.A.C. RAMASAMY RAJA, Founder

exCLuSIve

38 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Before deciding on of a spinning

mill in Rajapalayam, Ramasamy Raja

had learnt the intricacies of the cot-

ton and yarn trade as an agent of

$)�+DUYH\�/WG���0DGXUDL��7KH�PLOO�was established by collecting a share

capital of Rs. 5 lakhs from people in

and around Rajapalayam.

Sharing his thoughts at the Plati-

num Jubilee celebrations, Mr. P.R.

Ramasubrahmaneya Rajha, son of

5DPDVDP\�5DMD�DQG�WKH�&KDLUPDQ�RI �the Ramco Group, said: “My father

6KUL�3�$�&��5DPDVDP\�5DMD� LQFRUSR-

rated this company in 1936 to estab-

lish a spinning mill in this area after

his return from England. Production

started on August 5, 1938, exactly on

August 5 today when we are celebrat-

ing our Platinum Jubilee, which is a

very rare coincidence, after 75 years”.

Ramasamy Raja was keen on manu-

facturing quality yarn from the very

beginning, and hence installed the

&DVDEODQFD� 'UDIWLQJ� 6\VWHP� IRU� WKH�ÀUVW�WLPH�LQ�,QGLD��2UGHUV�ZHUH�SODFHG�for 12,300 spindles with tweedles and

smalleys from England. F. Permanyer,

a Spaniard, who had vast experience

in spinning mills and technology de-

velopment, was consulted for selec-

tion of machinery.

“The building of this mill was

´&RPSDQLHV�EHFRPH�VXFFHVVIXO�ZKHQ�WKH\�DUH�JXLGHG�E\�SHRSOH�ZKR�KDYH�WKH�DELOLW\�WR�FRPELQH�YLVLRQ�DQG�GHGLFDWLRQ�ZLWK�KDUG�ZRUN��0DQ\�GUHDP�RI �VXFFHVV��EXW�LW�LV�WKH�VHOHFW�IHZ�WKDW�ZDNHV�XS�DQG�DFWXDOO\�ZRUNV�DW�LW��,I �D�EXVLQHVV�KDV�WKH�JRRG�IRU-WXQH�WR�KDYH�WKH�VHOHFW�IHZ�WR�JXLGH��LW�WKHQ�DFTXLUHV�WKH�FDSDELOLW\�WR�HQGXUH�WLPH�DQG�JURZ�IXUWKHU��)ORXULVKLQJ�DQG�JURZLQJ�VXFFHVVIXOO\�LQ�HDFK�RQH�RI �WKHVH�ORQJ�VHYHQW\�ÀYH�\HDUV��5DMDSDOD\DP�0LOOV�/WG��KDV�DOZD\V�KDG�WKH�SULYLOHJH�RI �EHLQJ�JXLGHG�E\�DEOH�SHRSOHµ�

²�0U��6DQMD\�-D\DYDUWKDQDYHOX��0DQDJLQJ�'LUHFWRU��/DNVKPL�0DFKLQH�:RUNV�/WG�

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40 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

constructed at a cost of Rs. 1 lakh.

The power was provided under the

Pykara Power Project by the West

Ramnad District Electricity Board

that encouraged us to buy electricity

by our investing Rs. 25,000 as deposit.

&RWWRQ�ZDV�SXUFKDVHG�DW�5V������SHU�candy and the yarn price was 91 paise

per kg”, Mr. Ramasubrahmaneya Ra-

jha recollected.

Rajapalayam Mills was declared

open by V.V. Giri, Labour Minister

in the then Madras Presidency. At the

LQDXJXUDO�IXQFWLRQ�RI �WKH�PLOO��3�$�&��Ramasamy Raja said: “a contended

worker will give to the employer bet-

WHU�ZRUN�DQG�WKHUHIRUH�EHWWHU�SURÀWVµ�Mr. Ramasubrahmaneya Rajha fur-

ther said: “It will be appropriate to

mention here that the late G. Kup-

SXVDP\� 1DLGX� *DUX�� JUHDW� JUDQGID-ther of Sanjay Jayavarthanavelu, Man-

aging Director of LMW, was helping

my father by advising him during

the construction of our mill, on his

way to Kovilpatti to establish his mill

there. When the mill started produc-

tion on August 5, 1938, he, along with

3�6��*DQJD�1DLGX�*DUX��)RXQGHU�RI �the PSG Group of Industries, fed the

ÀUVW�FRWWRQ�LQ�WKH�EORZURRP�PDFKLQH�and blessed our institution with their

golden touch”.

,Q�WKH�YHU\�ÀUVW�\HDU�RI �SURGXFWLRQ��WKH�PLOO�HDUQHG�SURÀWV�DQG�D�GLYLGHQG�of 5 per cent was declared, in addi-

tion to a pro rata dividend of 2 per

cent declared from the date of collec-

tion of share capital till commence-

ment of production. The mill has the

proud record of unbroken dividend

payment in the 75 years of its exis-

tence.

2QO\�3�$�&��5DPDVDP\�5DMD�FRXOG�have envisioned that this company

would become a leader in such a short

time and the nucleus around which

would evolve the Rs. 4,300-crore

Ramco Group.

The last 75 years have proved him

right. Today the mills is acknowledged

DV�WKH�PRVW�SURÀWDEOH�VSLQQLQJ�XQLW�LQ�the industry whose production has in-

creased several times through expan-

sion and modernization. And its qual-

ity counts in 4’s to 300’s are threading

their way throughout the world to the

most quality conscious consumers in

´3HUIRUPDQFH�LV�NH\�IDFWRU�WKDW�KDV�FRQWULEXWHG�WR�LWV�VXFFHVV�VWRU\��5DMDSDOD\DP�0LOOV�ZDV�WKH�ÀUVW�LQ�WKH�,QGLDQ�WH[WLOH�,QGXVWU\�WR�VWDUW�DQ�(28�LQ�FROODERUDWLRQ�ZLWK�0LWVXELVKL��-DSDQ��7KLV�ZDV�D�WLPH�ZKHQ�WKH�LQGXVWU\�ZDV�MXVW�SDYLQJ�ZD\�IRU������(28V��$�ÀUP�EHOLHYHU�LQ�FXWWLQJ�GRZQ�ZDVWH�DQG�LQFUHDVH�HIÀFLHQF\��WKH�PLOOV�ZDV�DPRQJ�WKH�ÀUVW�WR�HPEUDFH�VFLHQWLÀF�DVVHVVPHQW�QRUPV��DV�VWLSXODWHG�E\�6,0$��7KLV�KDV�FRQWLQXHG�WR�KDYH�SRVLWLYH�LPSDFW�RQ�LWV�SURGXFWLYLW\�DQG�HI-ÀFLHQF\µ�

²�0U��-��7KXODVLGKDUDQ��&KDLUPDQ��6,0$

Mr. P.R. RAMASUBRAHMANEYA RAJHA, Chairman

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42 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Japan, Italy, Korea and Taiwan.

In the mid-1950s, Mr. Ramasub-

rahmaneya Rajha was keen to pursue

higher education in textile technology

in Manchester. The Founder had oth-

er plans to help his heir gain knowl-

edge in running a textile mill, working

his way up from the grassroots. His

son was therefore asked to undergo

the 18-month apprentice scheme of

%XFNLQJKDP� DQG� &DUQDWLF� 0LOOV� DV�RUGLQDU\�ODERXU�LQ�&KHQQDL��PXFK�WR�the surprise of its Managing Director,

0U��&DVWHOO�

The training did not end there. Mr.

Rajha was then enrolled in Madura

0LOOV�XQGHU�WKH�´*UDGXDWH�&RPPHU-cial Apprentice Scheme” where he

was trained in different departments

DV� DQ� RIÀFHU�� 7KH� \HDUV� RI � WUDLQLQJ��though very tough, made him fully

realise the role of workers for the

success of an enterprise. It was only

then that the Founder handed over

management of the mills to his son,

FRQÀGHQW�WKDW�KH�ZRXOG�WDNH�FDUH�RI �his workers as well as the company.

Ramasamy Raja, passed away in

1962 after having established a num-

ber of industrial units and education-

al institutions which had provided

employment and education to a large

number of people of his birthplace.

At the age of just 27, Mr. Ramasu-

brahmaneya Rajha had to shoulder

the responsibility of managing the

institutions established by his father.

It was under his leadership that total

modernization and massive expan-

sion took place. The extensive train-

ing he received from his father helped

ensure a smooth succession.

´2QH�KDV�WR�QDPH�5DMDSDOD\DP�0LOOV�ZKHQ�ZH�WDON�DERXW�VWDQGDUGV�LQ�TXDOLW\�DQG�SURGXFWLYLW\�LQ�VSLQQLQJ��,W�LV�RQH�RI �WKH�WRS�VSLQQLQJ�PLOOV�LQ�,QGLD�ZKLFK�SURGXFHV�D�YDULHW\�RI �TXDOLW\�\DUQV� LQ�GLIIHUHQW�FRXQW�UDQJHV��7KH�SLRQHHULQJ�VSLULW�RI �5DMDSDOD\DP�0LOOV�JRHV�EDFN�WR������ZKHQ��DJDLQVW�DOO�RGGV��WKH\�GH-FLGHG�WR�SXW�WKHLU�WUXVW�LQ�5LHWHU�DQG�SXUFKDVHG�WKH�ÀUVW�EORZ�URRP�PDFKLQHV��7KH�VSLULW�KDV�FRQWLQXHG�RYHU�WKH�\HDUV�IRFXVLQJ�RQ�FRQWLQXRXV�PRGHUQL]DWLRQ�E\�SURFXULQJ�ODWHVW�WHFKQRORJ\�DQG�PDFKLQHV��5DMDSDOD\DP�0LOOV�KDYH�DOZD\V�SUHIHUUHG�RXU�ODWHVW�DQG�PRVW�LQQRYDWLYH�GHYHORSPHQWV��EXLOGLQJ�D�ERQG�WKDW�ZH�ERWK�FRPH�WR�YDOXH�DQG�UHVSHFWµ�

²�0U��3HWHU�*QDHJL��([HFXWLYH�9LFH�3UHVLGHQW��5LHWHU

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44 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Technological perfection After assuming full responsibility

of the mills, Mr. Rajha undertook the

ÀUVW�WDVN�RI �PRGHUQLVDWLRQ�RI �DOO�WKH�units and introduction of high tech-

nology in 1962 – the two imperatives

essential in the manufacture of qual-

ity products. He was particularly keen

that this parent company of the group

VKRXOG�DOZD\V�EH�WKH�PRVW�SURÀWDEOH�spinning mill in the country. With

this goal in view, he took far-reaching

steps in completely modernising the

mill, changing the purchase and sales

policies and reorienting the approach

towards labour.

In 1968, on the advice of G.K. De-

YDUDMXOX�� WKH� WKHQ�&KDLUPDQ�RI �/DN-shmi Machine Works Ltd., Mr. Rajha

ordered for new Lakshmi-Rieter spin-

QLQJ�IUDPHV�UHOHDVHG�IRU�WKH�ÀUVW�WLPH�that year.

Mr. Rajha said: “We feel that Shri

GKD had blessed our institution by

supplying his latest ring frames which

enabled us to supply quality yarn to

our quality conscious indigenous cus-

tomers as well as international buyers.

I salute Shri GKD’s family for their

great contribution for the introduc-

tion of spinning machines of latest

technology in India”.

In 1982, Rajapalayam Mills got the

ÀUVW�HYHU�RSHQ�HQG�VSLQQLQJ�PDFKLQH�supplied by Rieter to manufacture 10s

yarn to cater to the needs of the han-

dloom sector in the South. A lot of

promotional effort was undertaken to

popularize the use of open-end yarn

in this sector.

In 1991, Rajapalaiyam Spintext was

established as a 100 per cent expert-

RULHQWHG�XQLW�� WKH�ÀUVW�RI � LWV�NLQG� LQ�south India. At that time many spin-

ning mill owners dared not start a

spinning mill as a 100 per cent EOU

because of the insistence of interna-

tional buyers on stringent quality and

WKH� GLIÀFXOW\� RI � D� VSLQQLQJ� PLOO� LQ�exporting its entire production. How-

ever, Spintext was started as a 100 per

cent EOU with the co-operation of

0LWVXELVKL� &RUSRUDWLRQ�� -DSDQ�� 7KLV�unit was inaugurated on January 30,

1992, by Mr. Yuzo Takeuchi, Manag-

Mr. S. KANTHIMATHINATHAN, President, Ramco Group Textile Division

exCLuSIve

´7KLV�LV�D�XQLTXH�PLOO��ZLWK�D�XQLTXH�ZRUNIRUFH��OHDG�E\�D�XQLTXH�&KDLUPDQ�0U�� 3�� 5�� 5DPDVXEUDKPDQH\D� 5DMKD�� ,� VWLOO� UHPHPEHU� RXU� ÀUVW� RUGHU«��0U��0DWKHZ� �6XHVVHQ·V� DJHQW� IRU� 6RXWK� ,QGLD�� DQG� ,� KDG�GULYHQ� DOO� WKH�ZD\� IURP�&RLPEDWRUH�WR�5DMDSDOD\DP�LQ�WKH�KRSH�WR�JHW�DQ�RUGHU��7KH�PHHWLQJ�GUDJJHG�RQ��PDQ\�WHFKQLFDO�TXHVWLRQV�ZHUH�DVNHG�DQG�DQVZHUHG�²�EXW�ZH�GLG�QRW�FRPH�WR�WKH�SRLQW�RI �SULFH�GLVFXVVLRQ��(YHQWXDOO\�WKH�PHHWLQJ�ZDV�DGMRXUQHG�E\�WKH�&KDLUPDQ��:H�VWRRG�RQ�WKH�YHUDQGD�RI �WKH�PHHWLQJ�URRP�DQG�VDLG�RXU�JRRG�E\H��7KH�&KDLUPDQ�PXVW�KDYH�QRWLFHG� WKH�GLVDSSRLQWPHQW� LQ�RXU� IDFHV��DQ\ZD\��

KH�ZDONHG�XSWR�PH�DQG�VDLG��´0U��6WDKOHFNHU��\RX�KDYH�FRPH�D� ORQJ�ZD\��\RX�VKRXOG�QRW�JR�KRPH�ZLWKRXW�DQ�RUGHU��3OHDVH�VHQG�DQ�RUGHU�FRQÀUPDWLRQ�IRU�WZR�PDFKLQHVµ�,�ZLOO�QHYHU�IRUJHW�WKHVH�ZRUGV�LQ�DOO�P\�OLIH««,�IHHO�WKH\�FKDUDFWHUL]H�ZHOO�

WKH�DWWLWXGH�RI �WKH�&KDLUPDQ��*HQHURVLW\��ULVN�WDNLQJ�DQG�H[FHOOHQW�MXGJHPHQWVµ��²�0U��3HWHU�6WDKOHFNHU��-0'��6XHVVHQ

46 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

ing Director, Dokobo, Japan.

Subsequently another 100 per cent

EOU, Rajapalaiyam Textiles, was set

up in 1996. The yarn manufactured

by this unit was well accepted by the

quality conscious consumers in Japan.

In 1988, the company celebrated

its Golden Jubilee. The celebrations

were inaugurated by G.K. Devarajulu.

It was presided over by G. Ramanu-

MDP��WKH�WKHQ�,178&�3UHVLGHQW��0U��3��&KLGDPEDUDP��8QLRQ�0LQVWHU� IRU�+RPH�$IIDLUV��ZDV�WKH�&KLHI �*XHVW��7KH�5DPFR�*URXS�RI �&RPSDQLHV�

celebrated the birth centenary of

Ramasamy Raja on April 24, 1994.

The function was presided over by R.

Venkataraman, former President of

India.

With the removal of the quota sys-

tem for export of yarn from the be-

ginning of 2005, the textile industry

expected good export demand, and

WKH�&KDLUPDQ�GHFLGHG�WR�H[SDQG�WKH�capacity by 25,000 spindles. This unit

commenced commercial production

in 2006. In order to improve the yarn

quality, the company invested in the

compact spinning system from Sues-

VHQ��*HUPDQ\��IRU�WKH�ÀUVW�WLPH�LQ�,Q-

dia in a big way.

In 2008, a state-of-the-art spinning

mill was commissioned with advanced

compact spinning system from Rieter

(K441), Switzerland, with fully auto-

mated link coners from Savio, one of

the latest technologies implemented

IRU�WKH�ÀUVW�WLPH�LQ�,QGLD�DQG�IXOO\�LP-

ported back process machineries to

produce yarn, which is untouched by

hand. Meanwhile, an automatic Savio

open-end spinning mill was set up in

Andhra Pradesh in 2008 with 1,800

rotors.

Over the years, Rajapalayam Mills

´���\HDUV�DJR��WKH�)RXQGHU�PHPEHUV�IHOW�WKDW�5DMDSDOD\DP�0LOO·V�LGHDO�RI �VHUYLFH�WR�WKH�FRPPXQLW\�ZDV�ZRUWK\�DQG�FUHGLWDEOH��DQG�IRU�WKLV�UHD-VRQ�WKH\�ODLG�WKH�IRXQGDWLRQ�IRU�WKH�ÀUVW�VSLQQLQJ�PLOO�LQ�5DMDSDOD\DP��7RGD\�WKH�PLOO�FRQWLQXHV�WR�EULQJ�QHZ�LGHDV��IUHVK�XS�WR�GDWH�ODWHVW�WHFK-QRORJLFDO�GHYHORSPHQWV�DQG�IUHVK�HQWKXVLDVP�WR�D�WUDGLWLRQ�RI �VHUYLFH�WKDW�KDV�VSDQQHG�JHQHUDWLRQV�WR�LWV�YDOXHG�FXVWRPHUV��EXVLQHVV�SDUWQHUV��HPSOR\HHV�DQG�WKH�VRFLHW\�DW�ODUJHµ�²�'U��*DEULHOH�&KHFFKLQL��0DQDJLQJ�'LUHFWRU��6DYLR�,QGLD�/WG�

exCLuSIve

48 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

has introduced various value-

added products, viz., TFO

yarn, gassed yarn, Elitwist

yarn, slub yarn, etc. As a part

of the continuous intensive

modernization programme,

the company has invested in

state-of-the-art textile ma-

chinery and equipments like

Suessen / Rieter compact set,

carding machines, soft pack-

age winding machine, etc.

When Mr. Rajha took over,

the company’s net worth was

Rs. 42 lakhs and the turnover

Rs. 1 crore. It was the only

mill with a capacity of 40,000

spindles. Under his leader-

ship, the company grew to

an aggregate spindle capacity

of 1.3 lakh spindles and open-end

spinning capacity of 3,800 rotors.

Its net worth as on March 31, 2011,

increased to Rs. 150 crores with the

turnover exceeding Rs. 300 crores.

All these have been achieved with

an actual investment of only Rs. 5.38

lakhs by way of share capital from the

shareholders and an investment of

more than Rs. 600 crores, mainly by

SORXJK�EDFN� SURÀWV� ZLWKRXW�seeking additional investment

from shareholders. This has

been possible only because of

prudent management under

the vision and stewardship of

WKH� &KDLUPDQ�� +H� IROORZHG�his father’s philosophy: “A

contented worker will give to

the employer better work and

WKHUHIRUH�EHWWHU�SURÀWVµ�So harmonious have in-

dustrial relations been at

the Ramco Group that not

a single labour dispute has

been referred to the tribunal

or court since 1938. Today

the group companies in the

Textile Division are operating

with total capacity of more

than 4.50 lakh spindles.

“My father envisioned the social re-

sponsibility of corporates even before

it is legally scripted today. He estab-

lished a hostel for Harijans in 1950,

which enabled many Harijan students

coming from villages to stay in the

hostel and study in the schools in Ra-

japalayam. They later on joined many

important Government services and

other agencies. In addition, we have

also started many schools, a Polytech-

QLF�&ROOHJH�DQG�DQ�,QGXVWULDO�7UDLQLQJ�&HQWUH�XQGHU�WKH�DXVSLFHV�RI �WKH�(G-

XFDWLRQ� &KDULW\� 7UXVW� VWDUWHG� E\�P\�father for imparting quality education

to the children of this area”, observes

Mr. Ramasubrahmaneya Rajha.

Mr. R.T. IYENGAR, Vice President

exCLuSIve

the textILe MAGAzIne wishes well the management and staff of

rAjApALAyAM MILLS RQ�WKHLU�3ODWLQXP�-XELOHH�FHOHEUDWLRQV�

– We are thankful to Mr. S. Kanthimathinathan, the President of Ramco Group Textile Division, who has been kind enough to provide us with all the relevant materials to prepare this article.

50 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Premier Evolvics Pvt. Ltd., part of

WKH� &RLPEDWRUH�EDVHG� 3UHPLHU�0LOOV�Group, is a fast emerging leader in the

ÀHOG�RI �TXDOLW\�WHVWLQJ��\DUQ�FOHDULQJ��contamination sorter and OnLine

monitoring and services for the tex-

tile spinning industry. Premier has

LWV� VWURQJ� IRFXV�RQ�5'�DQG�ZRUNV�with several cutting-edge technolo-

gies to offer superior products to its

customers. Premier will showcase its

3UHPLHU�(YROYLFV�ZLOO�VKRZFDVH�WHFKQRORJ\�leading solutions at ItMA

technology leading solutions at

ITMA 2011 for the global spin-

ning industry.

0U��&�5��6ULQLYDVDQ��+HDG���6DOHV��Premier Evolvics, says: “At ITMA

2011, our key focus areas are Systems

and total solutions for yarn clearing,

OnLine monitoring, contamination

VRUWHUV��\DUQ�WHVWLQJ�DQG�ÀEUH�WHVWLQJ��Since 1996, Premier is independently

developing, manufacturing and mar-

keting its products to the textile spin-

ning industry worldwide”.

Premier stands unique with several

products and solutions to the textile

industry. For instance, it is the only

comprehensive solution provider for

contamination with iQON, the new

VWDQGDUG�LQ�IRUHLJQ�ÀEUH�DQG�ZKLWH�33�clearing, ClassiQON��WKH�QHZ�FODVVLÀ-

FDWLRQ�VWDQGDUG�ZLWK�IRUHLJQ�ÀEUH�DQG�white PP classes, and the Xeni 2 series

RI � FRQWDPLQDWLRQ� VRUWHU� VSHFLÀFDOO\�designed for the beginning and end

of the blowroom line.

“We will be showcasing the all-new

Ultimo, the ultimate monitoring solu-

tion for ring spinning machines to op-

timize energy, manpower, productiv-

exCLuSIve

ity and quality with individual sensor

for each spindle. By embracing new

technologies, Ultimo sends instant

signal within a second from each

spindle and adopts Wi-Fi technology

for secured transmission with ease of

installation and practically zero main-

tenance”, adds Mr. Srinivasan.

Premier has set up a worldwide

sales and service covering more than

50 countries and continues to expand

it to include Latin America, Europe,

$IULFD� DQG�$VLD�� ,WV�&KLQHVH� VXEVLG-

iary, Premier Jiangsu Textile Electron-

LF� &R�� /WG��� ZDV� HVWDEOLVKHG� LQ� -XQH������WR�VHUYLFH�WKH�&KLQHVH�PDUNHW�

Premier’s aftersales support system

consists of engineers and spareparts

stationed at strategic locations around

the world. This network is further en-

hanced with an Internet-based fault

diagnosis system inbuilt into its prod-

ucts, with which it is possible for en-

gineers at the headquarters to provide

instantaneous service support.

The products on display at Pre-

mier’s ITMA pavilion will include

ART2, the fully automatic high vol-

XPH�ÀEUH�WHVWHU��aQura2, the raw ma-

terial and process management sys-

tem; iQ2 DX and iQ2 LX, the quality

expert; Xeni2, the contamination sort-

er in blowroom; iQON, the compre-

hensive yarn clearer; and Ultimo, the

OnLine monitoring system for ring

spinning machines. �

Mr. C.R. SRINIVASANHead - Sales, Premier Evolvics

By Ganesh Kalidas

52 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

/DNVKPL�5LQJ�7UDYHOOHUV��&%(��/WG���/57��ZLOO�IRFXV�RQ�Express Travellers at ITMA 2011. This is a breakthrough

technology which has set industry benchmark in perfor-

PDQFH�RI �ULQJ�WUDYHOOHUV�DQG�LV�WKH�UHVXOW�RI �\HDUV�RI �5'�LQ�WKLV�VRSKLVWLFDWHG�ÀHOG��VD\V�0U��-�0��%DODML��+HDG���0DU-keting, LRT.

At ITMA, LRT will be displaying the entire range of

ring travellers and application tools. Mr. Balaji says: “As

LRT is the largest manufacturer of ring travellers in the

world, the main focus at ITMA would be to connect with

the customers better and provide solutions to our custom-

ers to further enhance the productivity and quality of yarn

by understanding the customer needs better”.

Express travellers are manufactured with unique pro-

cess for better and uniform microstructure. Further, an

DGYDQFHG�FRDWLQJ�KDV�EHHQ�GRQH�ZLWK�ÀQH�GU\�OXEULFDQWV��This combination facilitates attainment of higher speeds,

better glidability, lesser heat generation, improved wear

resistance hence longer life, enhanced corrosion protec-

tion and helps in achieving maximum speed in synthetics

quickly.

LRT, part of the LMW Group, started its operation in

1974. LRT has two units manufacturing ring travellers, one

DW�+RVXU� DQG� WKH� RWKHU� DW�$QDPDOODL�� QHDU� &RLPEDWRUH��

Lrt to strengthen market leadership

with express travellers

The company is currently expanding

its capacity by setting up a new plant.

“We are presently expanding our

manufacturing facility by setting up a

QHZ� SODQW� LQ� &RLPEDWRUH�� 7KH� SODQW�should be operational by the end of

this year. We foresee a good growth

in future, and hence to meet the cus-

tomer requirements in time we are ex-

panding our facilities”, says Mr. Balaji.

LRT is clearly the dominant player in

the ring traveller segment with a 76 per

cent market share in the Indian market and 30-

70 per cent market share in most of the other countries in

ZKLFK�LW�RSHUDWHV��&XUUHQWO\����SHU�FHQW�RI �/57·V�EXVLQHVV�is from exports to over 40 countries, and travellers manu-

factured by the company are working in over 45 million

spindles worldwide. “Our objective is to be the preferred

source for ring travellers in all countries we operate in. At

present we are either number 1 or 2 in most of the export

markets”, adds Mr. Balaji.

/57�KDV�D�MRLQW�YHQWXUH�ZLWK�&$,32�$XWRPD]LRQH�,Q-

GXVWULDOH�65/�IRU�PDQXIDFWXULQJ�VOXE��FRUH�\DUQ�V\VWHPV�LQ�,QGLD��,Q�MXVW�WKUHH�\HDUV�/DNVKPL�&DLSR�KDV�HVWDEOLVKHG�market leadership for slub and core yarns in India with

RYHU���������VSLQGOHV� UXQQLQJ�ZLWK�/DNVKPL�&DLSR�VOXE�and core attachments.

6OXE��FRUH�\DUQ�KDV�JDLQHG�ZRUOGZLGH�DFFHSWDQFH�DV�fashion yarn, especially in denims, home furnishing fab-

rics, shirtings, women fabric and knitting products. In fact,

variations of slub yarn are the basic inputs for fabric in

almost all the denim products in the market. The interna-

tional market for slub yarn is currently pegged at around

2-3 per cent of all yarn produced in the world. Demand

is expected to grow to double digits in the next few years.

Value-added products like slub yarn command a good

premium compared to the normal yarn. In today’s highly

competitive market where margins are very thin for the

QRUPDO�\DUQV��LW�LV�PRUH�SURÀWDEOH�IRU�VSLQQHUV�WR�YHQWXUH�into fashion yarns. India by default has a huge potential

to supply fashion yarn to the world market. In the near

future India will be one amongst the leading suppliers of

VOXE��FRUH�\DUQ�WR�WKH�JOREDO�PDUNHW��

Mr. J.M. BALAJI, Head - Marketing, LRT

exCLuSIve

By K. Gopalakrishnan

54 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

1DYDO��RQH�WKH�OHDGLQJ�EREELQ�PDQXIDFWXUHUV�LQ�,QGLD��LV�all set to take its business to the next level by setting up a

bobbin manufacturing facility in a South Asian country to

cater to the global market.

7KH�1DYDO�*URXS�RI �,QGXVWULHV�ZDV�VWDUWHG�LQ������ZLWK�a modest investment of Rs. 15 lakhs. Today, it has three

PDQXIDFWXULQJ�IDFLOLWLHV�LQ�$KPHGDEDG��DQ�RIÀFH�LQ�6LQJD-pore and agents in all the continents.

0U��1DYDO�7LEUHZDOD��&KDLUPDQ��VD\V�WKH�JURXS�ZLOO�EH�VHWWLQJ� XS� LWV� IRXUWK�PDQXIDFWXULQJ� IDFLOLW\� DQG� WKH�ÀUVW�outside India, which is expected to be operational by 2012.

1DYDO�KDV�QRZ�LWV�RSHUDWLRQV�DFURVV����QDWLRQV�ZRUOGZLGH�Bobbins are manufactured using proprietary manufac-

turing technology, tested and proven for the last 30 years.

The raw material, polycarbonate, is imported directly from

Bayer AG of Germany under the trade mark agreement

with it and other Japanese makers. The company supplies

precision bobbins according to the customer needs.

$W�,70$��1DYDO�ZLOO�EH� IRFXVLQJ�PRUH�RQ�SURPRWLQJ�bobbins for value-added yarn for those customers with

VSHFLÀF�QHHGV��7KH� FRPSDQ\�ZLOO� EH� GLVSOD\LQJ�EREELQV�

1DYDO¶V�VLJQLILFDQW�SUHVHQFH�DW�,70$made of different combinations according to their appli-

FDWLRQ� DQG� XVH��%REELQV�PDGH� VSHFLÀFDOO\� IRU� SRO\HVWHU��industrial yarn, Lycra and, of course, for cotton yarns will

be on display at its stall at ITMA. Another area of focus

will be dyeing cones and dyeing tubes which will also be

displayed at the stall.

0U��1DYDO�7LEUHZDOD�VD\V��´:H�KDYH�DPELWLRXV�SODQV�RI �FDSWXULQJ� VLJQLÀFDQW� EXVLQHVV� LQ� 6RXWK�$PHULFDQ� FRXQ-

tries and ITMA is a very good platform in achieving this”.

The company is also manufacturing low-cost high qual-

LW\�EREELQV��ZKLFK�DUH�RQ�SDU�ZLWK�WKH�&KLQHVH�SULFLQJ��WR�cater to the African and South American price sensitive

markets.

1DYDO�KDV� WHFKQLFDO� FROODERUDWLRQ�ZLWK�2%�RI � -DSDQ�to manufacture and market dye tube of their patented

design. The company manufactures sliver can and spring

under technical collaboration from Germany.

1DYDO·V� SURGXFW� UDQJH� LQFOXGHV� 6LPSOH[� EREELQ�� ULQJ�frame tube, doubling frame tube, cheese and open end

tube and dyeing tubes and cone. The products are made

to suit machines of almost all makes such as LMW, Ri-

HWHU��7R\RGD��=LQVHU��6XHVVHQ��0DU]ROL��+RZD��HWF��1DYDO�is OEM supplier for major textile machine manufacturers

in Asia and Europe. It also supplies special custom-made

SURGXFWV�EDVHG�RQ�VSHFLÀF�FXVWRPHU�UHTXLUHPHQWV�1DYDO� H[SRUWV� LWV�SURGXFWV� WR�PRUH� WKDQ���� FRXQWULHV�

ZRUOGZLGH�� LQFOXGLQJ�$XVWUDOLD��&DQDGD��&KLQD��(QJODQG��Indonesia, Iran, Japan, Malaysia, Mexico, Peru, Singapore,

South Africa, Thailand, Turkey, Philippines, Bangladesh

and Zambia. �

Mr. NAVAL TIBREWALA, Chairman, Naval

COver StOry

By Ganesh Kalidas

56 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Lindström, the Finnish textile

services company, is expanding

its operations in India. A service

centre providing corporate work-

wear services has been established

in Hyderabad. The company goal

in India is to construct a service

network that covers the entire

country.

Lindström, which began opera-

tion in the Indian marketplace in

2007, is busy expanding its opera-

tions in Hyderabad. It also pro-

vides extensive workwear services

for companies.

Lindström has brought to the

Indian market a completely new

workwear concept whereby it will

respond to the workwear needs of

companies with the help of exten-

sive service. Its locker service is a

popular way of maintaining com-

SOHWHO\� RXWVRXUFHG� DQG� HIÀFLHQW�workwear service for companies.

The company will deliver work-

wear supplies to the premises of

customer companies regularly and re-

liably. It is also responsible for the de-

sign, procurement, warehousing and

ÀQDO�GLVSRVDO�RI �WKH�FORWKHV�“Our service has been received

well in India”, says Mika Hartikainen,

who is responsible for European and

Asian operations. “We provide cus-

tomers with service where we bear

the responsibility for the condition

DQG�VXIÀFLHQF\�RI �WKH�ZRUNZHDU��7KH�customers can focus on their own

core operations”.

&RPPHQWLQJ� RQ� EXVLQHVV� SURV-

pects, he says: “The Hyderabad area is

an interesting market for Lindström.

There is a lot of potential within local

companies as well as within our ex-

isting customers served in other areas

in India. The establishment of a ser-

vice centre in southern India is within

our operating philosophy: we want to

be located close to the customer and

know the special needs in that area”.

The Manager of the new business

unit is Yogendra Bhadoria. Previous-

O\��KH�KDV�ZRUNHG�DV�1DWLRQDO�$FFRXQW�Manager at India LG Electronics and

Lindström busy expanding

India operations

held several manager positions

with Philips in India and England.

Lindström’s goal in India is to

construct a service network that

covers the entire country. In the

FRXUVH�RI �ÀYH�\HDUV��LW�KDV�HVWDE-

lished a service centre and started

workwear service in Mumbai,

1HZ�'HOKL��&KHQQDL�DQG�QRZ�LQ�Hyderabad.

An environmentally respon-

sible organization, Lindström

has various initiatives in place for

waste water management as well

as for energy, washing detergent

and water consumption. The de-

tails are published in Lindström’s

annual sustainability report pre-

pared in compliance with the G3

standard of the Global Reporting

Initiative (GRI). Reducing carbon

footprint is on Lindström’s agen-

da globally.

Founded in 1848, Lindström

LV� WKH� PDUNHW� OHDGHU� LQ� WKH� ÀHOG�and one of Europe’s leading tex-

tile service companies. It has its op-

erations in 19 countries with almost

2,400 staff. Its 2010 turnover was 249

million Euros.

In addition to the parent company,

LindströmOy, the group consists of

&RPIRUWD2\�DQG�VXEVLGLDULHV�LQ�%XO-JDULD�� (VWRQLD�� *UHDW� %ULWDLQ�� &KLQD��India, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Ro-

mania, Sweden, Germany, Slovakia,

6ORYHQLD��WKH�&]HFK�5HSXEOLF��7XUNH\��Ukraine, Hungary and Russia.

For details, visit www.lindstromgroup.com�

Mr. MIKA HARTIKAINEN

COrpOrAte newS

THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011 | 57

vISItOr’S GuIde tO ItMA 2011

58 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

vISItOr’S GuIde tO ItMA 2011

60 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

vISItOr’S GuIde tO ItMA 2011

62 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011 | 63

66 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

vISItOr’S GuIde tO ItMA 2011

68 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Are you travelling to Barcelona to at-tend ITMA 2011? If so, here are some useful tips about the city, com-

muting to the Expo center, Indian restau-rants and important contact points.

Barcelona is the second largest city in Spain, in both

size and population, and is also the capital of the state

RI �&DWDORQLD��7KHUH�DUH�WZR�RIÀFLDO�ODQJXDJHV�VSRNHQ�LQ�%DUFHORQD��&DWDODQ�DQG�6SDQLVK��7KH�FLW\�RI �%DUFHORQD�has a population of roughly 16 lakhs with a majority of

WKHP�EHLQJ�5RPDQ�&DWKROLFV�DQG�DOVR�VPDOOHU�SHUFHQW-age of Jews, Buddhists and Muslims.

During the exhibition, the weather is expected to be

YHU\� SOHDVDQW�ZLWK� D�PHDQ� WHPS� RI � ���&� GXULQJ� GD\�WLPH�DQG�RI ����&�GXULQJ�QLJKW��%XW�RQH�FDQ�DOVR�H[SHFW�a lot of rainfall during the period. Hence it is advisable

to carry an umbrella or a jacket to keep yourself from

getting wet.

4��+RZ�WR� WUDYHO� WR� WKH�FRQIHUHQFH�FHQWUH� IURP�Barcelona airport ?

There are two main ways to get to the conference

centre from the airport – Aerobus (Express bus ser-

vice) and Metro. You catch the Aerobus outside any of

the two terminals and get off at Plaza Espanya. There

LW� LV�QHFHVVDU\� WR� WDNH� WKH�)*&� WUDLQ� IURP� WKH�0HWUR�station to Europa/Fira. Travel time is approx 45 min-

utes. Price of Aerobus 5.30 euros. 1.45 euros for Metro

ticket. Total 6.75 Euros.

There is a large taxi rank service directly outside the

airport. The price to the convention is around 20 Euros

(there is a minimum charge of 20 euros for taxis from

the airport) plus a small supplement for each suitcase

that you have. Travel time approx 15 minutes.

&RQIHUHQFH�DGGUHVV��)LUD�%DUFHORQD�*UDQ�9LD�$YH-QLGD�-RDQ�&DUOHV�,����������

The best way to get to the exhibition ground from

,70$�%DUFHORQD�����TRAVEL GUIDE TO

vISItOr’S GuIde tO ItMA 2011

By Ganesh Kalidas

70 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

your hotel, if the transportation is not arranged by your

travel agent, is to reach the nearest metro station and to

board a metro to a station named Espanya (Red Line,

/��� RU� �*UHHQ� /LQH�� /��� DQG� WKHQ� IROORZHG� E\� )*&�train to a station named Europa or Fira.

4��+RZ�WR�WUDYHO�RQ�WKH�%DUFHORQD�SXEOLF�WUDQV-SRUW�V\VWHP"

For hassle-free travel within the city during your

stay, it is better to purchase the Barcelona card which

will give free unlimited transport on the metro under-

ground, buses and trams at the Barcelona city centre.

You also receive discounts on entry tickets to many of

Barcelona’s main attractions and help you avoid the

queues to purchase transport tickets and the stress of

trying to speak in Spanish.

EntertainmentThe city has a great number of ancient historic build-

ings which are now considered World Heritage Sites.

Especially remarkable is the work of architect Antoni

Gaudí, which can be seen throughout the city. His best

NQRZQ�ZRUN�LV�WKH�LPPHQVH�EXW�VWLOO�XQÀQLVKHG�FKXUFK�of the Sagrada Família (Must See). The city along hous-

es a number of historic museums, scenic parks, white

sand beaches, and buildings like Torre Agbar and hotel

arts are some of its biggest tourist attractions.

This is an easy way to get around to see the main

sights of Barcelona for yourself. You can simply hop on

to the bus, and hop off to see the sight and then, well,

hop back on another bus again to go to the next sight.

Price – 23.00 Euros.

In case of emergencies, travellers from India are

asked to contact the Indian Embassy in the address

provided below:

,QGLDQ�&RQVXODWH�*HQHUDO�LQ�%DUFHORQD&�7HRGRUR�5RYLUDOWD������������%DUFHORQD��6SDLQ7HO��������������������������������������������������

INDIAN RESTAURANTS IN BARCELONABombay Spicy CALLE SANT PAU 16-18, Barcelona. TEL- 933174918Chandni Gran via de les corts catalanes, 482, L’Eixample, 08015, Barcelona. TEL- 934241023Moti Mahal C/ Sant Pau 103, Raval, 08001, Barcelona. TEL-933293252Namaste C/ Entença 137, Poble Sec, 08015, Barcelona. TEL-932261919Om India C/ Floridablanca 130, Ciutat Vella, 08011, Barcelona. TEL-933250307Tandoor C/ Calabria 144, Eixample, 08015, Barcelona. TEL-934253206Khana Calle Casanova 68 - 08011 Barcelona. TEL-934534978Shanti C / Agustina Saragossa 3-5, 08017 Barcelona. TEL-932523115

vISItOr’S GuIde tO ItMA 2011

72 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

The one-day ITMA-ITMF World

Textile Summit to be held in Barce-

lona on September 21 will be bring-

ing together textile industry leaders

DQG�VRPH�RI � WKH�ZRUOG·V�PRVW� LQÁX-

ential thinkers and policy makers in

VWUDWHJLFDOO\� LPSRUWDQW� ÀHOGV� VXFK�as economics, trade, technology and

sustainability.

It sets out to deliver an inspirational,

forward-looking agenda, comprising

expert presentations and interactive

panel discussions designed to offer a

global perspective on the opportuni-

ties and challenges that face the tex-

tile industry in the years ahead, and

providing delegates with new ideas to

maintain their success in the textile

manufacturing and supply chain.

The co-founder and Managing Di-

rector of Alok Industries, India’s big-

gest integrated textile enterprises, Mr.

Dilip B. Jiwrajka will address interna-

tional industry leaders at the World

Textile Summit.

Mr. Jiwrajka has been responsible

for steering Alok Industries through

a quarter of a century of astonish-

ing growth and is recognised as one

of a handful of Indian entrepreneurs

who correctly read the impact of the

dismantling of bilateral trade quotas

during the past decade and responded

imaginatively to the opportunities of

$ORN�,QGXVWULHV�FKLHI�DPRQJ�VSHDNHUV�DW�world textile Summit

the new business order.

With immediate family members,

he incorporated Alok Industries in

������VHWWLQJ�XS�LWV�ÀUVW�SRO\HVWHU�WH[-WXULVLQJ�SODQW� WKUHH� \HDUV� ODWHU��1RZ��with a turnover of around 700 mil-

lion Euro, the business has expanded

downstream into weaving, knitting,

processing, home textiles, garments

and retail, and upstream into cotton

spinning and the manufacture of par-

tially oriented yarn through continu-

RXV� SRO\PHULVDWLRQ�� 1HDUO\� KDOI � LWV�production is exported.

Mr. Jiwrajka will join a powerful

speaker panel that will include Du

<X]KRX��3UHVLGHQW�RI �&KLQD�1DWLRQDO�7H[WLOH��$SSDUHO�&RXQFLO��&17$&���/RHN� GH� 9ULHV�� 3UHVLGHQW� DQG� &(2�of the technical-textile leader Ten-

&DWH��DQG�7KRPDV�%DEDFDQ��&(2�RI �the world’s biggest textile-machinery

manufacturer, Oerlikon Textile, and

&22�RI �WKH�2&�2HUOLNRQ�*URXS�)RUPHU�8QLWHG�1DWLRQV� 6HFUHWDU\�

*HQHUDO�DQG�1REHO�3HDFH�3UL]H�ZLQ-

QHU�.RÀ�$QQDQ�²�QRZ�DQ�LQWHUQDWLRQ-

al advocate for sustainable business

practice – will be a keynote speaker at

the Summit.

7KH� 6XPPLW� LV� WKH� ÀUVW� MRLQW� LQL-WLDWLYH� EHWZHHQ� &(0$7(;�� WKH�(XURSHDQ� &RPPLWWHH� RI � 7H[WLOH�Machinery Manufacturers, and the

International Textile Manufacturers

Federation (ITMF), and is being or-

ganised in partnership with the World

7H[WLOH�,QIRUPDWLRQ�1HWZRUN��:7L1��and international event organiser MP

International. Oerlikon Textile, is the

Summit’s Platinum Sponsor. �

Mr. DILIP B. JIWRAJKA, co-founder & Managing Director

ItMA 2011 – preview

74 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Interview with)ULW]�3��0D\HU��&(2�RI�.DUO�0D\HU

As a leading manufacturer of warp

knitting and warp preparation ma-

chines, Karl Mayer will be exhibit-

ing at this year’s ITMA. Mr. Fritz P.

0D\HU�� &(2� RI � .DUO� 0D\HU�� LQ� DQ�interview to The Textile Magazine,

shares his thoughts on ITMA and the

current trends in the European and

Asian textile industries.

Excerpts: Question: Karl Mayer is one

of the largest exhibitors at ITMA 2011. What do you expect to achieve by exhibiting at ITMA?

Answer: We are hoping to meet

KLJKO\�TXDOLÀHG�YLVLWRUV�IURP�DOO�RYHU�the world at ITMA 2011. We are par-

ticularly geared up to welcoming visi-

tors who lead the way in their own

SDUWLFXODU�ÀHOGV��$V�SDUW�RI �RXU�WZLQ�product line strategy, we can supply

innovation-driven companies with

high-end machines of exceptional

technical quality. The ITMA fair in

Europe continues to be an effective

platform for us, where we can show-

case our high-tech machines, most of

which are developed and manufac-

tured in Western Europe.

Q: What role can a textile machinery fair play in Europe against the background of a textile industry that is being in-creasingly dominated by Asia?

A: The ITMA fair in Europe is a

good opportunity for European tex-

tile machinery manufacturers to high-

light their pioneering position and to

demonstrate their exceptional inno-

vative strengths. It is true that new

technical innovations are increasingly

being developed in Asia but, in the

textile machine building sector, the

leading manufacturers are still impor-

ItMA 2011 – preview

Mr. FRITZ P. MAYER, CEO, Karl Mayer

76 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

tant sources of inspiration and new

ideas.

Q: What development pros-pects do you see for non-Asian textile producers over the next few years?

A: Since the economic crisis in

2009, the textile markets outside Asia

have recovered exceptionally well and

also offer good business prospects

for manufacturers who are based out-

side this emerging continent. In order

to be successful, it is important to de-

velop new products all the time, offer

ranges that can cater to lucrative yet

VPDOO�HQG�XVH�ÀHOGV��DQG�LQFUHDVLQJO\�be able to deliver high-quality goods

on time.

Q: How can European textile machinery builders stand out against their Asian competitors in the future, especially in view of China’s increasing expertise in machine building?

A: The strength of European tex-

tile machinery manufacturers lies

both in their traditional pioneering

spirit and their expertise in engineer-

ing and development, which is based

on strong interdisciplinary co-opera-

tion. With their high-tech

systems, European textile

machinery builders have

traditionally determined

the performance limits

of the textile and cloth-

ing sector. On the other

hand, their international,

market-oriented location

enables European manu-

facturers to manufacture

goods having a competitive

price:performance ratio.

Above all, the use of mod-

ern production technol-

RJ\� DQG� HIÀFLHQW� SURFHVV�control and management

techniques offer a huge

potential when it comes to

strengthening and consolidating pro-

duction locations in Western Europe.

Q: What level of interest do you expect from the Asian visi-tors at ITMA?

A: We are expecting a large number

of visitors from all over the world,

especially from emerging nations like

India. In addition to visitors from

(XURSH�� WKH�1HDU� DQG�)DU�(DVW�� DQG�1RUWK� DQG�6RXWK�$PHULFD��ZH�KRSH�that many interested people from

Asia will also take the opportunity

to examine our latest innovations for

themselves.

Q: How important are the markets outside Asia for Karl Mayer?

A: The markets outside Asia have

always been extremely important to

us. This is where there is demand

for high-tech products manufactured

in Germany. We have built up long-

standing and close relationships with

a large number of companies, which

have resulted in the development of

many new innovations.

Q: What can visitors to ITMA expect to see on Karl Mayer’s stand?

A: We will be exhibiting the latest

developments from all our business

units at ITMA under the motto ‘We

care about your future’. Whereas the

focus of our machines for producing

technical textiles is on offering indi-

vidual, client-based solutions, we also

aim to showcase our warp knitting

machines with their optimised price-

performance ratios, as well as new,

innovative textiles. Our warp prepa-

ration machines also offer an impres-

sive, well-balanced price-performance

ratio and a high, reproducible prod-

XFW�TXDOLW\��7KH�SHUIRUPDQFH�SURÀOHV�of our latest new developments are

based on the requirements of their

relevant markets, not only the current

ones but also the emerging ones of

the future.

We will also be exhibiting at ITMA

as a focal hub for the industry. This

LV� WKH�ÀUVW� WLPH� WKDW�DOO�RXU�EXVLQHVV�units will be exhibiting on the same

stand. It is here that companies will

ÀQG�QHZ�LPSHWXV�DQG�LGHDV��DV�ZHOO�DV�practical tips and information to help

them do business, and they will also

be able to exchange ideas and infor-

mation with each other. �

ItMA 2011 – preview

78 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Trützschler Spinning will introduce a newly-developed

FDUG�DW�,70$�LQ�%DUFHORQD��WKH�7&�����&DUG�GHYHORSPHQW�LV�DQ�RQJRLQJ�SURFHVV�ZLWK�7U�W]VFKOHU��1HZ�ÀQGLQJV�DQG�ideas are immediately integrated in the current production.

However, traditionally a larger step is taken on the occa-

sion of ITMA in Europe by introducing a new card type

with clearly improved production and quality parameters.

,Q�%DUFHORQD��WKLV�ZLOO�EH�WKH�7U�W]VFKOHU�&DUG�7&����The new card stands for low capital expenditures and

production costs. This was made possible by a larger card-

ing area and unprecedented accuracy. The result is a 30-40

per cent increase in productivity.

1DWXUDOO\�� WKH� HVWDEOLVKHG� UROO� GLDPHWHUV�RI � WKH�SUHGH-cessor machines have been adopted. The same applies to

WKH�FURVV�VHFWLRQ�RI �WKH�FDUGLQJ�HOHPHQWV�DQG�ÁDWV�The capital expenditures for the cards, the building and

WKH�ÀOWHU� V\VWHP�DUH� ORZHUHG�� ,QFUHDVHG�FDUG�SURGXFWLRQ�means fewer cards. This results in a reduction of capital

expenditures. Therefore, the performance per sq. metre

building area increases. This means lower investments for

new buildings. Or it allows a carding capacity increase in

the same space by replacing the cards.

1HZ�7U�W]VFKOHU�&DUG�7&����WR�ILJXUH�DW�%DUFHORQD

Operating costs are reduced due to

lower capital costs, lower power con-

VXPSWLRQ� DQG� VPDOOHU� ÀOWHU� V\VWHPV��7KH�VSHFLÀF�SRZHU�FRQVXPSWLRQ� LV�DW�WKH�ORZHVW� OHYHO��:LWK�WKH�7&�����VDY-ings of approx. 20 per cent electrical

energy for each kilogram carded sliver

DUH� UHDOLVHG�� 7KH� ÀOWHU� V\VWHP� LV� DOVR�more compact and uses smaller fans.

Thus, it uses less electrical energy.

The machine, completely new de-

signed, takes just one look at the struc-

tural design to reveal the new concept.

The card frame supports only the drum

directly. Thermally induced changes to

settings are reduced. The sensor and

VRIWZDUH� EDVHG� 7�&RQ� V\VWHP� LV� RI �FRXUVH�DOVR�DQ�LQWHJUDO�SDUW�RI �WKH�&DUG�7&�����

During development it quickly

became obvious that the required accuracy cannot be

DFKLHYHG� ZLWK� FRQYHQWLRQDO� ÁDWV�� 7KHUHIRUH�� WKH� 7U�W-]VFKOHU�0$*12723�V\VWHP�LV�H[FOXVLYHO\�XVHG�IRU� WKH�7&�����

In addition to increased production, these measures

DOVR�UHVXOW�LQ�TXDOLW\�LPSURYHPHQW��1HYHU�EHIRUH�ZDV�FDUG�sliver cleaner, free of neps and uniform.

7KH�PDQ�PDGH�ÀEUH�FDUG�7&����6�ZDV�VLPXOWDQHRXVO\�GHYHORSHG�ZLWK�WKH�7&�����7KLV�PDFKLQH�LV�HTXLSSHG�ZLWK�special clothings and features one needled licker-in with

LQFUHDVHG�GLDPHWHU��$OO�ÀEUH�FDUU\LQJ�HOHPHQWV�DUH�PDGH�of stainless steel.

Trützschler Draw Frame TD 8Trützschler Spinning will also introduce a new draw

IUDPH� W\SH�� (YHQ� DW� ÀUVW� JODQFH� WKH� QHZ� GHVLJQ� RI � WKH�Trützschler Draw Frame TD 8 is obvious. The integra-

WLRQ�RI �D�QHZ�GUDIWLQJ�V\VWHP�DQG�D�QHZ�ÀOWHU�UHVXOWHG�LQ�a new casing.

The drafting system is characterised by increased accu-

UDF\��7KLV�EHQHÀWV�VOLYHU�HYHQQHVV��7RS�DQG�ERWWRP�UROOV�DUH�LQ�D�SUHFLVH�À[HG�SRVLWLRQ�WR�RQH�DQRWKHU��$V�LV�FXV-

ItMA 2011 – preview

THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011 | 79

tomary with Trützschler, adjustment is carried out paral-

OHO��&OHDQLQJ�EDUV�DQG�SUHVVXUH�EDU��PDGH�RI �KDUGHQHG�stainless steel, do not have just the usual thin coating.

Sensor reliability and accuracy is decisive for the con-

trol. Meanwhile, the newly developed input sensor Disc

/HYHOOHU�7'�'/�KDV�SDVVHG�DOO�ÀHOG�WHVWV�ZLWK�Á\LQJ�FR-

lours and is now part of the standard equipment of the

TD 8. Sensor and groove plates feature double bearings,

with one bearing below and one above the plates. The

D[OH�LV�ÀUPO\�DQFKRUHG�DQG�GRHV�QRW�QHHG�WR�URWDWH��%RWK�these measures result in improved measuring accuracy

and many years of long-term reliability.

The quality monitoring system Sliver Focus is also

equipped with a new sensor. It is characterised by ex-

traordinary robustness and reliability.

For even more accurate and dynamic levelling behav-

iour, the sliver feed creel is mechanically decoupled. The

QHZ�FRPSDFW�VOLYHU�IHHG�6HUYR�&UHHO�LV�HTXLSSHG�ZLWK�LWV�own drive. The levelling motor works more dynamic since

it no longer needs to accelerate and decelerate the creel.

Another advantage is the possibility of continuous and

sensitive adjustment of the tension draft between the creel

and draw frame. All it takes is a touch on the large colour

touchscreen.

ItMA 2011 – preview

80 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

ItMA 2011 – preview

THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011 | 81

,Q� WKH� VDPH�ZD\� DV� WKH�&$1�EXV�ZDV� LQWURGXFHG� LQ�������'251,(5�maintains its pioneering role and

introduces the FT control on the

market, a completely new innovative

system supporting reliable real-time

transfers of largest data volumes.

The complete communication

structure with control and process

levels is based on the Fast-Ethernet

technology. This system is also in-

tegrated in the safety concept for

the new A380 Airbus. This clearly

emphasizes the high importance

'251,(5� JLYHV� WR� VDIHW\� DQG� UH-liability in data transfers. The new

control is a sustainable innovation

carrier and also guarantees long-term

reliability for future developments in

electronics and drive technology.

It succeeds in optimizing utilization

of machine functions at high perfor-

mance and therefore increasing the

effect on reducing energy consump-

tion. This allows precise control and

monitoring of machine parameters

critical for quality. This gives the

weaver more reliability “on board the

weaving machine”.

7KH� IROORZLQJ� '251,(5� KLJK-

lights at the exhibition are based on

this innovative electronic technology.

The new, pioneering and patented

drive concept SyncroDrive is one of

WKH� VLJQLÀFDQW� FRPSRQHQWV� RI � WKH�QHZ�'251,(5�V\VWHP�IDPLO\�RI �UD-pier and air-jet weaving machines. The

VLJQLÀFDQFH� RI � '251,(5� ZHDYH�by-wire will certainly be very clear

on this Jacquard machine. An electric

control circuit to the separate drive

of the Jacquard machine replaces the

cardan connection between weaving

and Jacquard machines.

Realization of dynamic close of

shed adjustment while the machine is

running meeting the demands from

sophisticated weavers will be shown

on a 190 cm wide air-jet weaving ma-

chine at 900 rpm. An African damask

and a fashionable shirt material with

tucked selvedge will be woven with

RQ�WKH�Á\�SDWWHUQ�FKDQJHV��Separate starts for the Jacquard and

weaving machines then merging at a

rendezvous point allows a soft start

which halves the peak current and

ensures high speed stability without

peak forces. This reduces wear on

all components in the shedding area

such as the harness and thus reduc-

es machine standstills and warp end

breaks.

This drastic reduction in mechani-

cal loads means weaving machines

with this drive concept run 6-10 per

cent faster, and with explicit approval

from the shedding motion manu-

IDFWXUHU�� 7KLV� LV� SURÀWDEOH� IRU� WKH�customer with regard to higher pro-

ductivity and longer service life. The

new and patented drive concept has

already been in practical use for two

years.

For the application area do-mestic textiles: Curtain fabrics with embroidery unit on a type AWS 4/S12 C air-jet weaving machine with 360 cm nominal width

The FT control is also the origin

IRU�XWLOL]LQJ�OLQHDU�GULYHV�WKDW�'251-

The Lindauer DORNIER GmbH, as family company pro-ducing solely in Germany, focuses on innovation and sus-tainability. Its motto at ITMA 2011 is “DORNIER weave-by-wire”. New developments are shown in all three application areas of domestic textiles, clothing and tech-nical textiles.

ItMA 2011 – preview

82 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

IER uses to control additional pattern

axes on the new ORW air-jet weaving

machine presented. This innovative

compact system with programmable

linear offsets in the tenth of a milli-

meter range allows exact positioning

as well as precise and reproducible

settings.

:LWK� '251,(5·V� 2SHQ� 5HHG�Weave (ORW) Technology, the reed

is opened upwards, which creates

D� ÀOOLQJ� SDWWHUQ�ZLWK� WKH�ZDUS� HQGV��This opens up completely new pat-

tern options for all application areas.

7R� EH� SUHFLVH�� DV� HPEURLGHU\� ÀOOLQJ�pattern for clothing and furnishing

fabrics or selective, partial reinforce-

ments inserted in technical fabrics.

'251,(5·V� GHYHORSPHQW� WHDP�was awarded the Innovation Prize

2011 at the Techtextil for this tech-

nology.

For the application area tech-nical fabrics: Filter fabric on a type PTS 4/S20 C rapier weav-ing machine with 220 cm nomi-nal width

'251,(5·V� KLJK�SUHFLVLRQ� DLU�MHW�and rapier weaving machines adapted

WR� FXVWRPHU�VSHFLÀF� UHTXLUHPHQWV�FDQ� IXOÀOO� WKH� KLJKHVW� GHPDQGV� IRU�current and future developments in

complex technical textiles.

'251,(5� GHPRQVWUDWHV� LWV�“customized solutions” with a ra-

pier weaving machine. The machine

known for its sturdiness with high

reed impact forces, multi-beam weav-

LQJ� DQG� ZHDYLQJ� VWLII � PRQRÀODPHQW�with various diameters will be shown

on a rapier weaving machine pro-

GXFLQJ�D�KHDY\�ÀOWHU�IDEULF��6L[�ZDUS�axes and more can be activated on

demand. Production reliability and

fault-free weaving are of decisive im-

portance in this context.

For the application area cloth-ing fabrics: Women’s outer clothing fabrics on a type PTS 8/S20 C rapier weaving machine with 190 cm nominal width

The heart of the rapier weaving

PDFKLQH� LV� WKH� SURYHQ� '251,(5�ÀOOLQJ� LQVHUWLRQ�ZLWK� SRVLWLYH� FHQWUDO�

transfer. Filling threads are taken up

reliably and precisely passed on and

held securely until interlacing in the

open shed. Using the highly dynamic

back-rest roll unit (DWG) allows op-

timum thread tension compensation

even for complex styles requiring a

high number of shafts. Flexible pic-à-

pic insertion of very thin to coarsest

ÀOOLQJ�\DUQV�ZLOO�EH�GHPRQVWUDWHG�XV-ing an Alta Moda clothing fabric.

The product islands present various

exhibits from the areas like domestic

textiles, clothing and technical textiles

as well as different technologies such

as EasyLeno or drebfabrics. Finished

products from composites, geotex-

tiles, upholstery fabrics on up to very

fashionable clothing fabrics can be

seen.

'251,(5� DOVR� SURYLGHV� LQIRU-mation with patterns on the product

islands on a ServoTerry terry air-jet

weaving machine regarding variable

pile heights, pleats and precise transi-

WLRQV�EHWZHHQ������DQG���ÀOOLQJ�LQWHU-laces that leave no wishes open. �

ItMA 2011 – preview

84 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

7KH� &22 footprint is used to de-

scribe the complete greenhouse gas

emissions which are associated with

a product. Awareness is only given

ZKHQ� ÀJXUHV� DUH� SHUPDQHQWO\� DQ-

nounced. For textile products Ben-

ninger is taking over at the global

level the leading role to inform end-

users about the carbon footprint of

textiles. Textile engineers and ex-

perts receive detailed information

about each single textile process and

recipe. This will open new sights and

strengthen the awareness to avoid

&22 emissions.

These are the triggers for new in-

novations and for a cleaner world.

Any visitor of the Benninger booth at

ITMA can discover with its expertise

his own textile footprint.

Benninger has chosen several op-

tions to show carbon reductions in

WH[WLOH�ÀQLVKLQJ��7KH�FDUERQ�KRWVSRWV�

LGHQWLÀHG� DUH� PLQLPL]LQJ� WKH� QXP-

ber of drying processes, minimizing

steam and water consumption during

washing processes, thanks to high ef-

ÀFLHQF\� ZDVKLQJ�� DQG� UHSODFLQJ� WKH�resource intensive exhaust dyeing

SURFHVV�E\�&3%�G\HLQJUpgrading quality stand-ards &RWWRQ�DV�D�QDWXUDO�ÀEUH�UHTXLUHV�D�

huge amount of arable land and ir-

ULJDWLRQ�ZDWHU��&RWWRQ�SULFHV� DUH� ULV-ing since years and reached a peak in

2010. Especially long staple cotton

is hardly available. As a consequence

more and more short stable cotton is

used.

Mercerizing is getting more and

more important in order to keep the

high quality standard. The worldwide

cotton shortage leads to a remarkable

LQFUHDVH�LQ�PDQ�PDGH�FHOOXORVLF�ÀEUHV�such as viscose and tencel.

%HQQLQJHU�JXLGHOLQHV�RQ�FDUERQ�UHGXFWLRQ�LQ�WH[WLOH�ILQLVKLQJ

6WDWH�RI�WKH�DUW� YLVFRVH� ÀEUH�PDQ-

ufacturing plants allow to produce

ÀEUHV� QHDUO\� FDUERQ� QHXWUDO�� 3XOS� LV�received from trees with embedded

&22 and water consumption is only

1/50 compared to cotton farming.

Benninger will present at ITMA

a new mercerizing concept which

is suitable for mercerizing cotton,

DQG� DOVR� FDXVLWLFL]LQJ� YLVFRVH� ÀEUHV��for both woven and knitted fabrics.

Mercerized or causticized textiles do

require less chemicals and less dye-

stuff in the textile processing chain.

Benninger’s wet on wet mercerizing

concept does not require a resource

intensive intermediated drying stage.

&RQVHTXHQWO\� FDUERQ� HPLVVLRQV� DUH�reduced by 40 per cent.

Washing on Benninger’s high ef-

ÀFLHQF\�7ULNRÁH[� GUXP�ZDVKHU�ZLWK�mechanical supported front and back

washing reduces water consumption

by more than 50 per cent compared to

classical washers. Simultaneously, the

energy required to heat up the wash-

ing water (biggest carbon polluter) is

reduced. This has its biggest impact

on carbon reduction. Additionally the

integrated heat recovery system and

the insulation of the washing box re-

duce the energy requirement.

Despite the massive efforts of ma-

chine designers to reduce the liquor

UDWLR�� WKH�ÀQLVKLQJ�RI �NQLWZHDU� LQ� MHW�dyeing machines still requires large

amounts of water and therefore also

large amounts of energy. By contrast,

LQ�DGGLWLRQ�WR�TXDOLW\�EHQHÀWV�WKH�FRQ-

WLQXRXV�RSHQ�ZLGWK�ÀQLVKLQJ�SURFHVV�also offers savings, particularly in

terms of water and energy. In con-

ItMA 2011 – preview

86 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

WLQXRXV�PRGH��&22 emissions can be

reduced by nearly two-thirds in com-

parison to exhaust dyeing processes

(liquor ratio of 1:7). Benninger’s

7ULNRÁH[� EOHDFKLQJ� DQG� ZDVKLQJ�plants and the Benninger Küsters dye

pad suit this type of application per-

fectly.

:LWK� WKH� &3%� G\HLQJ� SURFHVV� WKH�UHDFWLYH�G\H�LV�À[HG�DW�URRP�WHPSHUD-WXUH��7KDQNV�WR�PRGHUQ�&3%�G\HLQJ�centres with controlled dyeing condi-

tions and the developments in terms

of the dyes themselves, this method

IRU�FHOOXORVH�ÀEUHV�IRU�ZRYHQ�IDEULFV�and knitwear can be used without re-

striction anywhere in the world. Sav-

ings are made not only because the

dye is set at room temperature, but

also because the intermediate drying

process after the dye application on a

KRWÁXH�LV�HOLPLQDWHG��7KH�KHDUW�RI �D�&3%�G\HLQJ�VWDWLRQ�

is the padder. The Benninger Küsters

dye pad is the only dyeing padder in

the world which features the original

S-Roll technology. This allows to run

SURGXFW�VSHFLÀF� FRUUHFWLRQ� SURÀOHV�for the dye application. As a result,

this technique therefore not only sets

the benchmark from an environmen-

tal and commercial point of view, but

also in terms of quality.

Benninger will show at ITMA a

FRPSOHWH�&3%�G\HLQJ�FHQWHU��6SHFLDO�highlights such as dyeing with only 2 l

dye liquor during nip dyeing and just

in time dyestuff solution preparation

improve the process reproducibil-

ity and reliability, but reduce another

time the consumption of dyes and

chemicals.

Another ITMA highlight is Ben-

ninger’s new remote management

information system which is suitable

for all types of smartphones and table

3&V�� ,PSRUWDQW� PDFKLQH� DQG� UHFLSH�ÀJXUHV� ZLOO� EH� DYDLODEOH� DW� DQ\� WLPH�and any place. Besides production

data and machine status information,

PDFKLQH� HIÀFLHQF\� DQG�PDLQWHQDQFH�status, the actual consumption data

will also be judged and graphically

shown as carbon footprint.

7H[WLOH�SURGXFWV�ZKLFK�DUH�ÀQLVKHG�on Benninger systems have an ex-

cellent impact on the environment.

What particularly stands out is the

low water consumption of the Ben-

QLQJHU� ÀQLVKLQJ� PDFKLQHV� IRU� NQLW-wear and woven fabrics. Besides, of

importance is the recycling of water

and energy from Benninger plants,

with the aid of which it is now pos-

VLEOH� WR� UHÀQH� WH[WLOH� V\VWHPV� WR� WKH�stage where the discharge of waste

water is reduced to zero.

ItMA 2011 – preview

88 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

ITEMA Weaving, with the estab-

lished brands of Sultex, Vamatex and

Somet, is set to present its latest inno-

vation in technology at ITMA 2011 in

Barcelona. Keeping with its tradition

to provide the widest range of weav-

ing solutions to the market, ITEMA

Weaving plans to exhibit its new Sult-

ex A9500 air jet and the Vamatex Sil-

ver 501 rapier weaving machines for

WKH�ÀUVW�WLPH�DW�,70$�Both the A9500 and Silver 501

boast a completely new electronic

platform. ITEMA Weaving will intro-

duce the “Loom Browser”, a software

package that allows the customer

TXLFN�DQG�HDV\�DFFHVV�WR�PRQLWRU�HIÀ-

ciency, stop levels, change and down-

load machine settings and/or create

DQG�GRZQORDG�ZHIW��GREE\�SDWWHUQV��Further, this new platform offers real

time remote diagnostic support. One

has to simply connect to the Internet

to access ITEMA’s World Wide Ser-

YLFH�1HWZRUN�IRU�SURIHVVLRQDO�WHFKQL-cal support.

ITEMA Weaving is the only com-

pany to produce weaving machines

with the three leading weft insertion

systems providing the right weav-

ing technology for every application.

Together, Promatech Italy, ITEMA

Switzerland and ITEMA Weaving

0DFKLQHU\�&KLQD�DUH�WKH�ZRUOG·V�1R���weaving machinery manufacturers,

with more than 300,000 machines in

operation worldwide.

With its high performance and sim-

SOLÀHG�GHVLJQ��WKH�6XOWH[�$�����DLU�MHW�weaving machine sets new standards

for productivity and operational sim-

SOLFLW\���1R�FRPSURPLVHV�ZHUH�PDGH�at the design stage. The A9500 pro-

duces excellent fabric quality. Its min-

imal air consumption is unrivalled.

Unique in concept, the machine is

equipped with a special shed geom-

etry designed to promote a long dwell

,7(0$�:HDYLQJ¶V�ODWHVW�DLU�MHW�PDFKLQH

while drastically reducing air con-

sumption.

The long weft insertion time and

WKH�KLJK�HIÀFLHQW�QR]]OHV� LQVXUH�WKH�optimum acceleration curve for any

type of yarn. The new electronic

platform, through its large, full col-

or touch screen display, offers new

functionalities and opens the doors

WR� DQ� HIÀFLHQW� GLDORJXH� ZLWK� WKH�,7(0$�6HUYLFH�1HWZRUN��7KH�6XOW-ex A9500 air jet weaving machine

is best suited for medium to heavy

denim, colored weaving and sheeting

applications.

$VVHPEOHG� LQ�&KLQD�� WKH�$����� LV�of the same footprint, engineering

and design of the Sultex A9500. It is

strategically equipped and offered to

the company customers worldwide

to weave competitive, commodity ap-

plications at the highest speeds at low

cost.

ItMA 2011 – preview

90 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Luwa Air Engineering AG of Swit-

zerland will be presenting its services

and innovations at ITMA 2011. The

main attractions are the newly devel-

RSHG�0XOWL&HOO� ÀOWHU� ZLWK� D� QXPEHU�of advanced features and the new

business unit “System Koenig” for

industrial heat recovery and exhaust

air cleaning systems, specially de-

signed to cope with the tough and

demanding requirements of the

textile industry.

7KH�0XOWL&HOO�ÀOWHU�ZKLFK�LV�EDVHG�RQ� /XZD·V� SURYHQ� ÀOWUDWLRQ� WHFK-

nology incorporates leading edge

GHYHORSPHQWV�� /XZD·V� 5'� WHDP�carefully evaluated the latest require-

ments of textile producers and in-

FRUSRUDWHG�WKHP�LQ�WKH�QHZ�ÀOWHU�This novel technology with modu-

ODU�DQG�VSDFH�VDYLQJ�ÀOWHU�FHOOV�LV�LGHDO�for machine exhaust air cleaning of

blow room and carding machines as

well as in air-conditioning plants for

GXVW�DQG�Á\�ÀOWUDWLRQ�RI �WKH�URRP�UH-turn air.

7KH�QHZ�ÀOWHU�RSHQV�XS�PDQ\�RS-

portunities to reduce the required

ÁRRU� VSDFH� RI � DLU�FRQGLWLRQLQJ� DQG�ÀOWUDWLRQ�SODQWV�LQ�WH[WLOH�PLOOV��,WV�DG-

vantages compared to a conventional

URWDU\� DLU� ÀOWHU� DUH� ��� SHU� FHQW� OHVV�ÁRRU�VSDFH��RSWLRQ�IRU�LQFUHDVHG�ÀOWHU�area for power saving, modular design

DQG�GXDO�XVH�RI �ÀOWUDWLRQ�RI �URRP�UH-turn air and machine exhaust air.

EasyHeat PLUS is the new addition

to the product range of System Koe-

nig. It provides a 2-step energy saving

generation of hot process water. The

ÀUVW� VWHS� LV� D� VWDQGDUG� ZDWHU�WR�ZD-ter heat recovery unit of the System

Koenig product range, and the sec-

ond step is an industrial heat pump in

order to raise the hot water tempera-

ture. EasyHeat PLUS provides hot

ZDWHU�RI �XS�WR����&�ZLWKRXW�WKH�QHHG�for additional energy input.

System Koenig comprises a com-

plete range of engineered system

solutions for industrial heat recovery

and exhaust air cleaning. The main

applications are in the dyeing and

ÀQLVKLQJ�SURFHVVHV� WR�UHFXSHUDWH�HQ-

HUJ\�IURP�HIÁXHQW�ZDWHU��H[KDXVW�DLU�DQG�ÁXH�JDV�ZLWK�D�YHU\�DWWUDFWLYH�UH-

/XZD�WR�SUHVHQW�DGYDQFHG�ILOWHU��DLU�FOHDQLQJ�V\VWHPV

turn of investment, and to eliminate

air pollution (visible smoke and bad

smell) from the exhaust air. These

products are well designed and tailor-

made to be perfectly integrated into

customer’s process requirements.

In a live demonstration Luwa is

operating a Uniluwa system with Tex-

fog for process air-conditioning. The

Uniluwa is supplying precisely con-

trolled clean air to the new airjet spin-

ning machine of Rieter on its adjacent

ERRWK��&RQWURO�DQG�PRQLWRULQJ�RI �DOO�parameters is accomplished with the

VXSHULRU�/XZD�'LJL��&RQWURO�6\VWHP��

ItMA 2011 – preview

92 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

$&,0,7� LV� WKH�FKLHI �SURPRWHU�RI �the Sustainable Technologies project,

through which it intends to favour

Italian machinery and technology that

adheres to an intelligent use and man-

agement of chemical products, energy

and water for textile machinery, with-

in a framework of eco-sustainable

development. The project is realized

through the technical support of the

engineering company D’Appolonia

DQG� EHQHÀWV� IURP� WKH� FR�RSHUDWLRQ�ZLWK�WKH�(XURSHDQ�1X�:DYH�SURMHFW��At the heart of the project is the cre-

ation of a descriptive label (the green

ODEHO��GHVLJQHG�E\�$&,0,7�DQG�XVHG�by its members as a self-declaration

RI � WKH�FDUERQ� IRRWSULQW� DQG� VSHFLÀF�technologies behind each machine or

installation and its production cycle.

“The manufacturing industry is cur-

rently seeking new ideas to stimulate

production,” explains Sandro Salmoi-

UDJKL�� 3UHVLGHQW� RI �$&,0,7�� ´,Q� DQ�effort to guarantee a renewed push

towards growth, the textile sector, in

particular, is turning to production

models with processes, technologies

DQG�PDFKLQHU\�WKDW�DUH�HIÀFLHQW�IURP�an energy standpoint and provide a

low environmental impact.”

$&,0,7� UHSUHVHQWV� DURXQG� ����companies employing about 13,000

people and producing machinery for

an overall value of 2.4 billion euros,

with exports amounting to 79 per cent

of total sales. The quality of Italian

textile technology is evidenced by the

high number of countries in which

Italian machinery is sold – about 130

,WDOLDQ�WHFKQRORJ\�SURMHFW�VHUYLQJ�HFR�VXVWDLQDEOH�WH[WLOH�VHFWRU�

countries worldwide. Almost 50 per

cent of total machinery exports are

destined for the Asian continent, fol-

lowed by Europe (31 per cent). The

primary export markets for Italian

PDFKLQHU\� PDQXIDFWXUHUV� DUH� &KLQD��Turkey and India.

Within this context, textile machin-

ery builders must adapt to the indus-

try’s demand for a sustainable devel-

RSPHQW�PRGHO�WKDW�FDQ�RIIHU�HIÀFLHQW�and effective technology solutions for

end users. “The primary goal of our

associated manufacturers must be that

of supplying sustainable technologies

which aim to reduce energy con-

sumption, water and chemical agents

in production processes, resulting in a

production cycle that is more respon-

sible and attentive to consumption,”

The Sustainable Technolo-gies project has kicked off. Through this initiative, the Association of Italian Tex-

tile Machinery Manufactur-ers wants to respond to the

growing demand for sus-tainability in manufactur-ing processes, originating

not just from end users, but including all of the various

players in the global textile and clothing industry. One

month from its launch, 24 of ACIMIT’s associated mem-bers have already signed

on, entitling them to display the “Supplier of Sustainable

Technologies” logo. Mr. SANDRO SALMOIRAGHI, President, ACIMIT

ItMA 2011 – preview

94 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

underscores Salmoiraghi. “This mod-

el is in line with what our customers

are requesting from us.”

7KDQNV� WR� $&,0,7·V� JUHHQ� ODEHO��Italian machinery manufacturers

can now declare the environmental

SHUIRUPDQFH� VSHFLÀFDWLRQV� RI � HDFK�machine they produce. The label pro-

vides a list of indicators such as the

PDFKLQH·V� &DUERQ� )RRWSULQW�� D� SD-

rameter which determines its ecologi-

FDO�HIÀFLHQF\�Italian machinery manufacturers

adhering to the project must respect

a protocol agreement and rigorous

implementation regulations under-

ZULWWHQ�LQ�SDUWQHUVKLS�ZLWK�$&,0,7��guaranteeing the validity of the data

supplied to potential customers. The

project’s stringent guidelines and

regulations grant further added value

to the credibility of the information

provided.

$&,0,7� DVVRFLDWHG�PHPEHUV� SDU-ticipating in the “Sustainable Tech-

nologies” project can be recognised

by the “Supplier of Sustainable Tech-

nologies” logo, which the association

has created to promote visibility for

those machinery manufacturers and

technology suppliers who

XVH�WKH�$&,0,7�JUHHQ� OD-bel.

7KH� $&,0,7� ZHEVLWH�features a special section

dedicated to the issue of

eco-sustainability, where

YLVLWRUV�ZLOO�ÀQG�DQ�XSGDW-ed list of Italian machinery

manufacturers who adhere

to this project. One month

from its launching, the fol-

lowing 24 companies have

already embarked on the

LQLWLDWLYH��%UD]]ROL��&LELWH[��&RORU�6HUYLFH��&RPH]��&R-

moli, Fadis, Ferraro, Flain-

ox, Jaeggli Meccanotessile,

Jem, Lafer, LGL, Lop-

WH[�� 0DULR� &URVWD�� 0HV-dan, Monti Mac, Obem,

Plm, Pozzi, Reggiani, Roj,

Salmoiraghi, Santoni and

Tonello.

The Sustainable Tech-

nologies project is support-

ed by the Italian Ministry

for Economic Develop-

ment and the Italian Trade

&RPPLVVLRQ�� ZKLFK� KDV�inserted it among its initia-

tives to be promoted and

ÀQDQFHG��FRQYLQFHG�RI �WKH�textile machinery sector’s

crucial role in the global

economy.

ItMA 2011 – preview

96 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

The Ministry of Textiles is committed to work-ing closely with all the stakeholders by setting up four Centres of Excel-lences (COEs), one each on Non-Wovens, Sport-etch, Indutech and Com-posites, said Mr. Sujit Gulati, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, in his inaugural address at the Conference on Techni-cal Textiles with focus on Health & Infrastructure sectors organized by the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) in Coim-batore.

+H� VDLG� RXW� RI � WKH� IRXU� &2(V��WKUHH�QHZ�&HQWUHV�RI �([FHOOHQFH�KDYH�EHHQ� GHVLJQDWHG�� DW� 36*�&ROOHJH� RQ�,QGXWHFK�LQ�&RLPEDWRUH��'.7(�&RO-OHJH�RQ�1RQ�:RYHQV�DW� ,FKDONDUDQML��DQG� DW� $7,5$� RQ� &RPSRVLWHV� LQ�Ahmedabad which provides support

for the domestic and export market

development of technical textiles and

support for business start-ups.

As per David Rigby Associates, he

said, the global market size of techni-

cal textiles was $127 billion for 2010,

and it is expected to reach $127 bil-

lion by 2012-13 at an annual growth

rate of 3.5 per cent. As per Baseline

survey, the market size of technical

textiles in India is estimated at Rs.

63,204 crores during 2010-11, and

based on the past trend of growth,

the sub-group on technical textiles

for the 11th Five-Year Plan has pro-

jected the market size to touch Rs.

&HQWUH�RI�([FHOOHQFH�VHW�XS�LQ�&RLPEDWRUH�IRU�7HFKQLFDO�7H[WLOHV

1,60,000 crores by 2016-17 with an

annual growth rate of 20 per cent.

The sub-group has further projected

the market size of medical textiles

at Rs. 6,000 crores by 2016-17 at a

growth rate of 20 per cent.

Mr. Gulati further stated that the

Ministry of Textiles is co-ordinating

with all the other user Ministries, es-

SHFLDOO\� WKH� 0LQLVWULHV� RI � +HDOWK� �Family Welfare and Road Transport

�+LJKZD\V�IRU� LQWHU�PLQLVWHULDO�GLV-cussion on regulatory measures for

the use of technical textiles. This

would enhance the usage of medical

textiles and geotextiles in the country.

0U�� $�%�� -RVKL�� 7H[WLOHV� &RPPLV-sioner, in his keynote address, briefed

participants on the Technology Mis-

sion on Technical Textiles and urged

the industry in the region, especially

the textile business community and

entrepreneurs, to make use of the

opportunities in the technical textile

sector.

Mr. Manikam Ramaswami, past

&KDLUPDQ� RI � &,,�7DPLO� 1DGX�� DQG�&KDLUPDQ� DQG� 0DQDJLQJ� 'LUHF-tor, Loyal Textiles Mills Ltd., in his

DGGUHVV�� VDLG� &KLQD� KDV� ��� &2(V�dedicated to technical textiles. This

H[SODLQV�ZK\�&KLQD�LV�SHUIRUPLQJ�H[-tremely well in the global market, and

even competing with the European

market.

He said: “Technical Textiles is ex-

WUHPHO\� LPSRUWDQW� LQ�7DPLO�1DGX� DV�there is huge percentage of students

going beyond 10th standard having

high aspiration in life. This would be

an intellectually rewarding career op-

Mr. RAVI SAM, Chairman, CII Coimbatore Zone

teChnICAL textILeS

98 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

tion for the youth”.

He urged the Government to con-

sider having zero import duty for the

growth of technical textiles in India,

and suggested that the Government

come up with mandatory regulations

for safety in industry by using tech-

nical textile products and link safety

procedures to insurance for the safety

of industrial workers.

0U��7��.DQQDQ��&KDLUPDQ��&,,�1D-WLRQDO� &RPPLWWHH� RQ� 7H[WLOHV�� DQG�Managing Director, Thiagarajar Mills

Pvt. Ltd., in his special address, ex-

pressed the view that lack of aware-

ness among the investor community

is one of the major bottlenecks that

prevented large-scale participation of

companies and entrepreneurs, espe-

cially from MSMEs, in the technical

textile growth story. The textile indus-

try in India is the second largest em-

ployment generator after agriculture,

and with the kind of strong industrial

base in the industry, textile companies

have huge potential to get into the

technical textiles sector.

0U�� &�5�� 6ZDPLQDWKDQ�� &KLHI � ([-ecutive, PSG Industrial Institute,

observed that the growth of techni-

cal textiles would not only bring in

technological advantages in the coun-

try but would also help in generating

huge employment opportunities.

Earlier, welcoming the delegates to

WKH�FRQIHUHQFH��0U��5DYL�6DP��&KDLU-PDQ�� &,,� &RLPEDWRUH� =RQH�� ODXGHG�WKH� *RYHUQPHQW� VXSSRUW� WR� &,,� LQ�FRQGXFWLQJ� WKH� FRQIHUHQFH� LQ�&RLP-

batore.

The conference was well attended

by 170 delegates and speakers from

all over the country.

Lack of awareness among the investor commu-nity is one of the major bottlenecks that prevent-ed large-scale participation of companies and entrepreneurs, especially from MSMEs, in the technical textile growth story. The textile industry in India is the second largest employment gener-ator after agriculture, and with the kind of strong industrial base in the industry, textile companies have huge potential to get into the technical tex-tiles sector, according to Mr. T. Kannan, Chair-man, CII National Committee on Textiles, and Managing Director, Thiagarajar Mills Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. MANIKAM RAMASWAMI, past Chairman, CII-Tamil Nadu

Mr. T. KANNANChairman, CII National Committee of Textiles

teChnICAL textILeS

100 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

The Indian Government has done its part by creating the basic awareness on the techni-cal textiles sector. In addition, it has also

contributed from the "scal point of view by launch-ing a national Technological Mission on Technical Textiles. In addition, the technical textiles sector has also been included in the revamped Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS). !is will beg the question: why then the industry has not grown? !e answer to this question lies in two parts – lack of awareness on how to make "nished or converted technical textile products, and marketing know-how to sell and trade technical textile products.

+RZ�WR�LPSURYH�WHFKQLFDO�WH[WLOHV�VHFWRU�LQ�,QGLDBy Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA

There needs to be a platform where interested parties

and entrepreneurs can come to know what products are

marketable and how to make and market them. The an-

swer to this puzzle lies in the 1-0-1 basic marketing class

on technical textiles. In a different connotation, the indus-

try has to make and sell products where there are multiple

consumer needs and applications. Simply put, the techni-

cal textiles sector in India should know where and how

such textiles are used on a daily basis.

It is very well accepted in the industry that the technical

textiles sector can be categorized into 12 segments which

were proposed a couple of decades ago by the Techtextil-

Messe Frankfurt. How relevant this will be in a very na-

scent growth market like India is questionable in my point

of view. When Techtextil-Messe Frankfurt made this cat-

egorization, the European and American technical textiles

markets were fairly matured.

In the Indian context, to give room for all segments to

participate, it would be logical to broadly categorize tech-

nical textiles into consumer products, institutional prod-

ucts and government/national procurement products.

6XFK�D�FODVVLÀFDWLRQ�DOORZV�RSSRUWXQLWLHV�IRU�DQ\�QXPEHU�of industries to individually or collectively participate in

the growth equation of the technical textiles sector. For

example, if the thrust is given to one product such as geo-

textiles where the market is niche and limited, it will jeop-

ardize the growth opportunities for a number of small-

scale players with limited investment capabilities.

For entrepreneurs and industrialists with limited invest-

ment capabilities, it would be logical and less risky to en-

ter into the converting sector of the technical textiles in-

dustry. The converting sector is the generic name for the

segment of the technical textiles industry that develops

products which are picked up and used by consumers. In

other words, these are the products which will occupy the

VKHOYHV�RI �UHWDLO�RXWOHWV�RI �:DO�0DUW��&RVWFR��%LJ�%D]DU��etc. I have been articulating the need for creation of the

converting sector in India in the recent past. As briefed

before, big ticket item products such as geotextiles, sport-

teChnICAL textILeS

Mr. SESHADRI RAMKUMAR

102 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

ech and agritech, to name a

IHZ�� KDYH� D� YHU\� GHÀQHG� DQG�focused market. In these seg-

ments although there are op-

portunities it is very competi-

tive and limited, whereas in

the case of consumer prod-

ucts there are limitless op-

portunities with relatively less

investments.

Where to go for opportunities?

A careful look at day-to-

day life products will reveal a

number of opportunities for

small and medium-scale en-

trepreneurs. Even an existing

home textile and commodity

textile manufacturer can venture into small ticket items

with large volume. For example, the baby comforter (blan-

NHW��LV�D�WHFKQLFDO�WH[WLOH�SURGXFW�WKDW�KDV�SRO\HVWHU�ÀEHU�ÀOO�VWXIIHG�LQVLGH�SULQWHG�FRWWRQ�FORWK��6LPLODUO\��D�EDE\�FDU�seat in an automobile has polyester batt stuffed inside a

ÁDPH�UHWDUGDQW�SRO\HVWHU�ZRYHQ�PDWHULDO��These are a few examples of how new products which

are very relevant to the consumer needs can be made. An

existing home textile manu-

facturer can be converted into

a reusable grocery bag manu-

facturer by simply diversifying

the product line from devel-

oping a woven home textile

material to a technical textile

material such as a shopping

bag or a side sleeping pillow.

As the primary infrastruc-

ture in this situation is cutting

and sewing, the home textile

manufacturer in this case is di-

versifying within his realm of

core competency. The need of

the hour is to diversify within

the limits of a manufacturer’s

core competency and comfort

level with minimum invest-

ment.

With the recently revamped

TUFS such investments are

possible in India which has

the necessary knowledge

base and basic fabric (roll

goods) manufacturing capa-

bility needed for spearhead-

ing the growth of the con-

verting sector. For instance,

the entrepreneurial commu-

nities in Surat, Tirupur and

Karur can think of any num-

ber of products which will

enhance the functionality,

applications and consumer

appeal with their existing in-

frastructural capabilities. For

example, products such as

baby sling, hospital stretch-

ers, body bags, etc., to name a few, involve proper thinking

and combination of multiple products and processes such

as nonwovens, wovens, cutting and sewing, coating, etc.

The need of the hour is to create an understanding on

such converted products and a critical mass of people who

will be able to advise entrepreneurs and industry associa-

tions in India and grow the important converting sector

of the technical textiles industry. It is extremely important

for the Government, indus-

try associations and research

organizations to promote the

development and growth of

the converted technical tex-

tiles product in India.

The global technical textile

industry is based on produc-

ing and selling products that

are relevant to consumers,

such as wipes, diapers and

medical and hygiene prod-

ucts. Developing this partic-

ular segment of the techni-

cal textiles sector, which will

develop huge volume-based

consumer products, must

now receive priority atten-

tion of the Indian textile in-

dustry.

In the Indian context, to give room for all segments to participate, it would be logical to broadly catego-rize technical textiles into consumer products, institutional products and government/national procurement products. Such a classification allows opportunities for any number of in-dustries to individually or collectively participate in the growth equation of the technical textiles sector. For ex-ample, if the thrust is given to one product such as geotextiles where the market is niche and limited, it will jeopardize the growth opportunities for a number of small-scale players with limited investment capabilities.

teChnICAL textILeS

104 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

A delegation of the Denim Manu-

facturers Association (DMA) led by

Mr. Sharad Jaipuria, Managing Direc-

tor, Ginni International, along with

0U�� <�&�� *XSWD�� &(2�� /1-�'HQLP��0U�� 6�.�� *XSWD�� &(2�� 5D\PRQG��0U�� $NKLOHVK� 5DWKL�� &(2�� %KDVNDU�Industries, Mr. Rajiv Dayal, Manag-

ing Director, Mafatlal Industries, and

Mr. Mayank Jain, Director, Malwa

Industries, met the Textiles, Industry

DQG�&RPPHUFH�0LQLVWHU��0U��$QDQG�Sharma, on July 19.

Mr. Jaipuria made a presentation to

the Minister and gave him an over-

view of the denim industry, produc-

tion capacity, export potential, do-

mestic sales, etc. The industry, with

its great potential, can expand and

increase its market share in exports.

Most of the denim mills in India are

fully integrated and consume about

10 per cent of raw cotton produced

in the country.

Mr. Jaipuria also referred to the

SUHVHQW�ÀQDQFLDO�FULVLV�LQ�WKH�LQGXVWU\�because of the steep drop in cotton

prices by about 40 per cent, imposi-

tion of 10 per cent duty on branded

garments, withdrawal of 2 per cent

interest subvention, etc.

He urged the Minister to immedi-

ately support the industry with reliefs

like revision of duty drawback rates

from 4.3 per cent to 9 per cent, suit-

able increase in the number of coun-

tries in Africa and Asia for FMS and

MFLPS, an increase in duty credit

scrip from 2 per cent to 5 per cent,

restoration of 2 per cent interest sub-

vention rate, and removal of the duty

on indigo.

denim industry assured of adequate reliefs

The Minister told the delegation

that instructions have already been

given to extend 2-3 per cent interest

subvention to exporters with imme-

diate effect. Duty drawback would be

suitably revised and made more ro-

bust and interactive. Further, export-

ers won’t face any disadvantage on

account of lower duty drawback rate.

The delegation was also told that

the Ministry would look into the

question of removal of duty on in-

digo.

The delegation also met Mr. Rahul

.KXOODU�� &RPPHUFH� 6HFUHWDU\�� 0UV��Rita Menon, Textiles Secretary, and

Mr. A.K. Poojary, DGFT, and sub-

mitted a memorandum on the denim

industry.

The denim delegation members who met the Union Minister are (from left), Mr. Mayank Jain, Director, Malwa Industries, Mr. Rajiv Dayal, Managing Director, Mafatlal Industries, Mr. Y.C. Gupta, CEO, LNJ Denim, Mr. Sharad Jaipuria, Managing Director, Ginni International, Mr. Anand Sharma, Minister for Textiles, Industry and Commerce, Mr. Akhilesh Rathi, CEO, Bhaskar Industries, and Mr. S.K. Gupta, CEO, Raymond

textILe SCene

106 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

7KH� QHZ� $WODV� &RSFR� *$� UDQJH�launched recently offers the most en-

HUJ\�HIÀFLHQW�DLU�FRPSUHVVRU�SDFNDJH�ZLWK�DQ�RSWLPXP�VSHFLÀF�HQHUJ\� UH-quirement. In addition, it also comes

with a variable speed drive option –

the new GA VSD compressor – of-

fering the widest turndown range as

comparable to any of the models

available in the market.

The new GA compressor will be

able to operate in the severest con-

ditions (ambient temperatures of

up to 50 degrees centigrade) and

very silently (noise level of 71 dBA),

which is again the best available in

the market.

7KH�$WODV�&RSFR�*$�LV�WKH�ÀUVW�RLO�injected compressor in the world to

integrate the water separator into the

compressed air cooling system. Re-

ducing internal pressure drops by 50

per cent, this design change contrib-

uted two per cent to overall compres-

VRU�HQHUJ\�HIÀFLHQF\��7KLV�LV�WKH�FRP-

SDQ\·V� ÀUVW� DLU� FRPSUHVVRU� WR� RIIHU�VSD-controlled cooling fans. They

DGMXVW�WKHLU�VSHHG�WR�ÁXFWXDWLQJ�FRRO-ing needs, reducing energy require-

ments by up to 59 per cent compared

WR�WKH�À[HG�VSHHG�IDQV�XVHG�E\�RWKHU�suppliers.

$WODV�&RSFR�*$�UHGHILQHV�FRPSUHVVRU�HIILFLHQF\

The carefully optimized screw ele-

ment design has resulted in a drop of

ÀYH�VL[� SHU� FHQW� RI � HQHUJ\� UHTXLUH-ments as compared to the previous

screw design.

“With the integration of its patent-

HG�6DYHU�&\FOH�&RQWURO��$WODV�&RSFR�has achieved further energy savings

for its refrigerant dryers of up to 30

per cent (in normal load conditions).

This technology is standard in the

new GA compressors”, said Mr. R.

1DUD\DQDQ�� %XVLQHVV� /LQH� 0DQDJHU��Oil Free Air Division.

teChnOLOGy

108 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

So far as the textile engineering industry (TEI) is con-

cerned, the condition improved during 2010-11 with a

better performance put up by the textile industry.

Capacity utilisation$V� SHU� WKH� VXUYH\� RI � WKH� 7H[WLOHV� &RPPLWWHH�� GXULQJ�

2008-09 the estimated annual installed capacity of TEI

was Rs. 8,048 crores. The total provisional production of

WH[WLOH�PDFKLQHU\�� SDUWV�� DFFHVVRULHV� GXULQJ� ����������recorded an increase of 45 per cent at Rs. 6,150 crores as

against Rs. 4,245 crores achieved during the previous year.

tMMA AGM

By Mr. Anuj Bhagwati, President, TMMA*

&DSDFLW\�XWLOL]DWLRQ�LQFUHDVHG�WR����SHU�FHQW�LQ���������compared to 53 per cent in the preceding year. Demand

recession faced by the industry had severely affected ca-

SDFLW\�XWLOL]DWLRQ�GXULQJ�WKH�SUHYLRXV�\HDUV��&DSDFLW\�XWLOL-zation might improve further during 2011-12.

Imports of textile machinery have risen from Rs. 4,500

crores during 2009-10 to Rs. 5,000 crores (estimated) dur-

ing 2010-11.

Exports during 2010-11 had been estimated at Rs. 650

crores against Rs. 582 crores achieved during 2009-10.

,QGLDQ�7H[WLOH�0DFKLQHU\�Industry: Current scenario and future outlook

Mr. ANUJ BHAGWATI

The GDP growth during 2010-2011 was 8.5 per cent as compared to 7.4 per cent during the preceding year. !e Index of Industrial Production (IIP) was at 8.2 per cent

during 2010-11 as compared to 10.4 per cent during 2009-2010. !e foreign exchange reserves have risen from $280 billion in 2009-2010 to $305 billion the next year. However, in$ation re-mains high: it was at 9.9 per cent as on March 31, 2010, at 8.9 per cent in March 2011 and was hovering around 9 per cent during June 2011. !e capital goods sector which grew by 27.4 per cent in March 2010 grew only by 12.9 per cent in March 2011, while the manufacturing sector grew by 7.9 per cent as against 16.4 per cent.

Mr. C. Arunachalam, General Manager - Exports, LMW, receiving the TMMA Apex Export Award 2010-11 from the Chief Guest, Mr. Parakramsinh Jadeja, Chairman & Manag-ing Director, Jyoti CNC Automation Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Dipak N. Shah, Director and Mr. Venkat Reddy, Manag-ing Director, Kusters Calico Machinery Ltd., being present-ed the TMMA Segment Export Award 2010-11 for Machinery Sector

110 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

With the overall improvement of the industry, exports are

expected to grow in the coming years.

The welcome spurt in demand from the textile indus-

try during 2004-2007 had encouraged TEI to develop and

expand the machinery manufacturing capacity. This was

particularly so in the spinning machinery sector. Units in

the industry had been striving hard to step up production

and shorten the delivery period. Due to the recessionary

pressure in the following years the delivery periods were

wiped out. At present demand is again looking up, and it

is our earnest endeavour to meet the demand in quantum,

quality and performance coupled with effective after-sales

service.

Current situationThe Government policy of discouraging composite

mills during the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s and thereby rel-

egating the weaving and processing industry to the decen-

tralized sector was a de facto encouragement for low tech-

nology machinery. Further, the earlier reservation policy

of the Government in hosiery and garment industries

resulted in proliferation of small/low tech units, and also

units were encouraged to undertake large-scale second-

hand machinery imports. Even today the preference of a

large section of the textile industry to imported second-

hand/used machinery is affecting the growth of domestic

machinery manufacturing.

A strong textile engineering industry that can grow,

compete and export would be able to provide strong sup-

port to the Indian textile industry, to make it vibrant and

FRPSHWLWLYH��,W�LV�ZHOO�NQRZQ�WKDW�7(,�KDV�PDGH�D�VLJQLÀ-

cant contribution to the phenomenal growth of the textile

VSLQQLQJ�VHFWRU��,�DP�FRQÀGHQW�WKDW�LW�ZLOO�EH�SRVVLEOH�IRU�TEI to acquire technological strength in many more sec-

tors, like in spinning, provided they are properly support-

ed by the textile industry and by fair Government policy.

TEI needs full support from the Government so that it

KDV�D�OHYHO�SOD\LQJ�ÀHOG�DQG�EHFRPHV�FRPSHWLWLYH�HQRXJK�to supply the latest technology machines to the textile in-

dustry.

With this, India could be a manufacturing hub of textile

machinery, parts, components and accessories and thus

contribute to employment, generation and GDP growth

and be able to meet 70-75 per cent demand of the Indian

textile industry for high tech machinery.

,Q� WKH� SDVW� \HDU�� ZH� KDYH� DOVR� VHHQ� VLJQLÀFDQW� XQFHU-tainty due to sudden policy shifts on account of suspen-

sion of TUFS and control of cotton and yarn exports. I

do believe a long-term policy environment in these sectors

Mr. P.K. Bhagwati, Chairman, Inspiron Engineering Pvt. Ltd., receiving the TMMA Segment Export Award 2010-11 for Parts & Accessories Sector

Mr. T. Parabrahman, Managing Director, Kirloskar Toyoda Textile Machinery Pvt. Ltd., being presented the TMMA Spe-cial Export Award 2010-11 for Spinning Machinery Sector

Mr. Pratik R. Bachkaniwala, Director, Palod Himson Textile Machines Pvt. Ltd., receiving TMMA Special Export Award 2010-11 for Small-Scale Machinery Sector

The second TMMA Research & Development Award 2010-11 for the development of TPRS Twister (twisting plying re-verse twisting system) being received by Mr. Dharmesh V. Desai, Meera Industries P. Ltd.

tMMA AGM

112 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

is also necessary.

Measures for growth orientationWe have been representing to the Government for re-

PRYDO�RI �ÀVFDO�DQRPDOLHV��,�ZRXOG�OLNH�WR�KLJKOLJKW�VRPH�of the support measures needed to promote this industry,

ZKLFK�LQFOXGH�FKDQJHV�LQ�ÀVFDO�SROLF\��UHPRYDO�RI �KXUGOHV�facing the industry and assistance required for improving

the technology, production and exports:

��([FLVH�GXW\�RQ�DOO� LWHPV�RI � WH[WLOH�PDFKLQHU\� DW���SHU�cent. There should be no exemption.

��([FLVH�GXW\�RQ�DOO�SDUWV��FRPSRQHQWV�DQG�DFFHVVRULHV�RI �the textile machinery should be less than complete ma-

chinery, i.e., at the level of 4 per cent.

��7KH�ÁRRU�OHYHO�RI �FXVWRPV�GXW\�RQ�FDSLWDO�JRRGV�VKRXOG�be at 7.5 per cent.

��7KH� UDWH�RI �GXW\�RQ� UDZ�PDWHULDOV��SDUWV�� FRPSRQHQWV�and accessories should be less than that on complete ma-

chinery, in general, at least to 5 per cent.

��5HGXFWLRQ� LQ� LPSRUW� GXW\� RQ�GHGLFDWHG�SDUWV�� FRPSR-

nents and accessories of shuttleless looms and other hi-

tech machines which are not made in India so far, from 5

per cent to zero level.

��8QLIRUP�WUHDWPHQW�WR�GRPHVWLF�VXSSOLHUV�RI �PDFKLQHU\�WR�(3&*�OLFHQFH�KROGHUV�DQG�����SHU�FHQW�(28��DV�ERWK�are deemed export.

��1R� VXEVLG\� XQGHU� WKH� 7HFKQRORJ\�8SJUDGDWLRQ� )XQG�6FKHPH�DQG�LWV�GHULYDWLYHV��QDPHO\�����SHU�FHQW�&/&6�DQG����SHU�FHQW�&/&6�6FKHPH�RQ�WKH�LPSRUWHG�VHFRQG�KDQG�textile machinery, in the name of modernisation

��%DQ�RQ� LPSRUW�RI �VHFRQG�KDQG�VKXWWOHOHVV� ORRPV�ZLWK�weft insertion rate less than 750 mtrs per minute.

We hope that the Government would act on our pro-

posals.

Joint Working GroupA Joint Working Group (JWG) had been constituted by

WKH�0LQLVWU\�RI �+HDY\�,QGXVWULHV��3XEOLF�(QWHUSULVHV�XQ-

der the chairmanship of the Joint Secretary, Department

of Heavy Industry, to bring out a comprehensive action

plan and policy initiative to strengthen the textile machin-

ery manufacturing eco-system in the country.

7KH�ÀUVW�PHHWLQJ�RI �-:*�ZDV�KHOG�RQ�1RYHPEHU�����������LQ�1HZ�'HOKL�XQGHU�WKH�FKDLUPDQVKLS�RI �0U��+DUE-

hajan Singh. It was proposed that a visit of JWG to some

units of TEI in different places be organized in order to

KDYH�ÀUVW�KDQG�LQIRUPDWLRQ�RI �WKH�PDQXIDFWXULQJ�DFWLYLW\�with a dialogue with the TEI representatives and repre-

sentatives of the user industry regarding the problems and

suggestions.

Its second meeting was held under the chairmanship of

0U��+DUEKDMDQ� 6LQJK�RQ�0DUFK� ��� ������ LQ�&RLPEDWRUH�along with a visit to the LMW plant and meeting with rep-

resentatives of the local textile industry and SIMA.

In this context it is worth mentioning that the Associa-

tion initiated the process of selecting an expert consultant

to conduct a detailed study of the textile engineering in-

dustry with the goal of the Association preparing a Vi-

sion Paper for the next 10-15 years. We have zeroed in

on Gherzi Textil Organisation AG, Switzerland, for this

study. This effort also has the blessings of the Depart-

ment of Heavy Industry and the Ministry of Heavy In-

GXVWULHV��3XEOLF�(QWHUSULVHV�� DQG� WKH�*RYHUQPHQW�KDV�DJUHHG� LQ�SULQFLSOH� WR�ÀQDQFH�D�SDUW�RI � WKLV�SURMHFW��:H�hope that this report would go a long way in helping frame

Government policies and create an atmosphere conducive

for investment and technology upgradation of the textile

engineering industry.

*Excerpts from the speech delivered by Mr. Anuj Bhag-wati, President, TMMA at the Association’s AGM held re-cently in Mumbai

Mr. Sachin R. Chopra, Director, Dhall Enterprises & Engi-neers Pvt. Ltd., receiving the TMMA Special Export Award 2010-11 for Processing Machinery Sector

Mr. R. Jagadeesan, Vice President - Corporate Administra-tion, LCC, receiving the TMMA Special Export Award 2010-11 for Parts & Accessories Sector

tMMA AGM

114 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

Mr. S. Hari Shankar, Whole-time

'LUHFWRU�RI �/DNVKPL�&DUG�&ORWKLQJ�0IJ��&R��3YW��/WG���KDV�EHHQ�HOHFWHG�&KDLUPDQ� RI � WKH� 7H[WLOH� 0DFKLQ-

ery Manufacturers’ Association

(India) for 2011-2012. Mr. Prakash

.�� %KDJZDWL�� &KDLUPDQ�� ,QVSLU2Q�Engineering Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad,

and Mr. Jayaraman Anand, Manag-

ing Director, Veejay Lakshmi En-

JLQHHULQJ�:RUNV� /WG��� &RLPEDWRUH��KDYH� EHHQ� FKRVHQ� WKH� ÀUVW� 9LFH�&KDLUPDQ� DQG� WKH� VHFRQG� 9LFH�&KDLUPDQ�UHVSHFWLYHO\�RI �700$��

Mr. Pratik Rajnikant Bachkaniwa-

la, Director, Himson Textile Engi-

neering Pvt. Ltd., Surat, is the Hon.

Treasurer.

0U��+DUL�6KDQNDU��DQ�0%$�IURP�3KLODGHOSKLD�&ROOHJH�RI �7H[WLOHV��6FLHQFHV��LV�RQ�WKH�%RDUG�RI �'LUHFWRUV�RI �3UDWKLVKWD�:YJ�� �.QLWWLQJ� &R�� /WG��� DQG�*RYHUQLQJ�&RXQFLO�PHPEHU�RI �WKH�,QGLDQ�&KDPEHU�RI �&RPPHUFH�DQG�,QGXVWU\��&RLPEDWRUH�

Mr. Bhagwati has been a member of the TMMA

([HFXWLYH� &RXQFLO� VLQFH� ����������� +H� UHFHLYHG� WKH�%DFKHORU�RI �0HFKDQLFDO�(QJLQHHULQJ�LQ�/'�&ROOHJH�RI �

hari Shankar is new tMMA president

Engineering in 1968 and Master of

Science in Mechanical Engineering,

Wichita State University, Kansas, in

1970.

A member of the Development

&RXQFLO� IRU� WKH� 7H[WLOH�0DFKLQHU\�Industry, Ministry of Heavy Indus-

WULHV� � 3XEOLF� (QWHUSULVHV�� KH� KDV�set up various social involvement

bodies such as the Associated In-

dustries Rural Development Trust

with the main objective of socio-

economic development in rural ar-

eas.

Mr. Jayaraman Anand is in charge

of all family-run companies. He

has travelled extensively in connec-

tion with business and has an expe-

ULHQFH�RI �PRUH�WKDQ����\HDUV�LQ�WKH�ÀHOG�Before becoming the Whole-time Director at vari-

ous group companies at Himson, Mr. Pratik had been

LQVWUXPHQWDO� LQ� VHWWLQJ� XS� RIÀFH� DQG� D� MRLQW� YHQWXUH�FRPSDQ\�LQ�&KLQD�LQ�������,Q�������KH�KDG�DFWLYHO\�DV-sessed and completed the procedure of takeover of a

company in a similar line of product.

Mr. Prakash K. Bhagwati Mr. Jayaraman Anand Mr. Pratik Rajnikant Bachkaniwala

tMMA AGM

Mr. S. Hari Shankar

The TexTile Magazine – classified column

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The TexTile Magazine – classified column

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The TexTile Magazine – classified column

120 | THE TEXTILE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2011

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