P ACIFIC '66 UNION - eVols

XX. No. 5. 25 CENTS A COPY NOVEMBER, 1920.

ED STATES AUSTRALASIA HAWAII ORIENT TAVA

76e MID-PACIFIC MAGAZINE officid otOn ofthe

P ACIFIC '66 UNION

14 Hi .b.10 dr 1 fit 4.

CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

Volume XX. No. 5.

CONTENTS FOR NOVEMBER, 1920.

Our Art Section—Pacific Sports 401 ,Native Games of Latin South America - - - - 417

By Franklin Adams of the "Pan American Union" Staff

Among the Alaskan Tlinkats 421 By G. E. Kastengren

The Australian Coral Isles 427 By Frank Reid of "The Lone Hand Staff"

A Missionary Hike in Kauai 431 By J. M. Lydgate

The World's Wonderland - - - 435 By C. W. McMurran

Something About Japanese Painting - - - - 439 By H. P. Bowie of "The Tourist" Staff

The Java Uplands - - - - - - 443 By H. A. Doering

Hawaii's Great Opportunity - - - 447 By Riley H. Allen

Athletes in China's Army - 451 By Rodney Gilbert

Singapore in Story - - - - 455 By S. S. Beet

Mountain Tramping in Hawaii - 477 By Lorrin A. Thurston

The Filipinos as Scientists 463 By Member of "Far Eastern Review's" Editorial Staff

The Great Volcano on Tanna 469 By Emma H. Adams

The Climate of Hawaii- - 473 By Lawrence Hite Daingerfield

Early Recollections of San Francisco - 459 By Raphael Weill

Bulletin of the Pan Pacific Union - - - 481 New Series No. 13

alp n: ih-Parifir Magazine Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu T. H.

Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.50 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.75. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c.

Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice.

Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine. • • I Etimrtrriv rrrrmrrrinnr. Is't? . ,

that

ha

s be

com

e th

e

7gr. _

_V

ELE

M=

7

.7CI''

r ..,

-:\

-.• . •

,«,

4

"'"*

".

.-.1;.̀

*

.....

..."'

* "It.' '''''.4

r7,/ $

... .7%

• '''''"

,,

_ '

•

' . ,r,..w

w,,T- ...

.„Ni:. -

f .i,„

,, . , -

.

4 .„

...ie

L., .

. -

A •-

- q

it

.- ' ---

--tEi.

:-''

'-',' .

. .,

, •

'';"-,cl

it '

' .

-, - -

,- .

sti-A

.T*

.'1 1

14.1

-i

■

. -

_ if

-* _

_L,' „

,1:,':.

, . -,,, ',I

g","$:

V.1

a

'

,

! ,'

.

-- •

'

/I

if :

,(

. I

9 ; 4

6. '-

i

- Ai 1'1

4 .1 t

t*

t , i

•

. .

.. A

, J

irk .

7-171

,44i

.

-

- .

_ ...

Man

ly B

eac

h, n

ear

Sy

dney

, is

th

e re

sort

of

tho

usa

nds

da

ily in the w

arm

we

ath

er t

he y

oungs

ters

le

arn

ing

to s

hoot in

be

fore

th

e w

ave

s, u

sin

g th

eir

bo

die

s a

s ca

tapu

lts.

iii#

ax—a—m

aira—r

al—

_5110

_ - .'-'

In Australasia tramping the mountain tracks or trails is one of the great sports and recreations 01 the people; there are moun-tains to climb and scenery to enjoy second to none in the world.

One great sport of the visitor to New Zealand is the descent of the -Wanganui river. This is probably the most beautiful stream in the world, widely picturesque from end to end.

Cricket long ago became the one sport of the natives of Samoa. Whole villages would turn out to the games that would last all day long and on which entire coconut crops would be wagered.

Horse racing is the Australian sport, and at Melbourne annually is run the race for the Caufteld cup, on the result of which all Australia bets.

In South America the Indians have a game of ball all of their own. Two, balls are used; tail feathers of birds are affixed for accuracy in throwing. The Indians become wonderfully expert at ball playing.

Gathering for a game of Topeo.

Native Games of Latin South America (By Franklin Adams, of the Pan-American Union.)

Edited by Alexander Hume Ford.

1110-Parifir fliagazitir Official Organ of the Pan-Pacific Union.

Volume XX. NOVEMBER, 1920. Number 5.

THE ball game is indigenous to the Americas. Perhaps the first simian inhabitants found true

sport in catching the cocoanuts tossed from the tall palms—certain it is that several thousand years ago the ball game had reached a high state of development in the 70 cities scattered through Yuca-tan. On clearing away the matted for-ests enveloping these marvelous ruins,

ball courts were disclosed near the most sacred temples, and, from the elaborate hieroglyphics and pictographs ornament-ing the walls, much was learned of the

-complicated character of the sport. Cen-turies after the passing of these ancient Mayans, came the first Spanish explorers who found that a younger race in con-tiguous territory, the Aztecs, had re-vived the old pastime into a "national

417

418 THE MID-PACIFIC

game," with the stone "God of Sport" beaming on every court.

The peculiarity of these early games was that the ball, when in play, was not thrown with the hand but struck by the hip, around which the player wore a protecting pad of leather. At each end of the court was a great stone disk with a hole in the center, and through this orifice the ball was driven before a point was score. Very naturally , a "lively ball" was. used, since rubber trees dominated the forests.

Old chroniclers marvel at the skill and endurance of the players, for a game was seldom won under four hours of constant play. Such exhausting con-tests, with a dozen participants in al-most constant action, were not for ama-teurs but professionals. Thus, from

the Aztec word olli, signifying "ball," came the word mollonqui, "one who plays ball for a living."

A similar game has been played through the ages over a wide range of territory. Oviedo witnessed and de-scribed the sport as played by Indians in the West Indies over four centuries ago, and Dr. Koch-Grunberg, who re-cently returned from a two-years' so-journ among the tribes of the Cuduiary River in the wilds of Brazil, found the natives in every village playing ball.

Dr. Grunberg writes that a carefully leveled field lies in front of the malokas. or large communal houses, and daily, at 5 o'clock, the men returning from the day's fishing or hunting, indulge in the sport—not a complicated game like that of the early Mexicans, but one calling for a high degree of skill, as two balls are used by the Cuduiary players, who drive them with the hands toward their opponents. Yellow tail feathers of the Yapoo bird are affixed to the rubber balls for accuracy. The players have remarkable muscular development and never forsake the game unless it is

called off on account of the rain. As their sunset hour is the same through-out the year, the concluding moment of the play is fixed by the last peep of the sun.

At the other end of the South Ameri-can continent, fully 5,000 miles from where Oviedo saw his first ball game, we find the indigenous sport still pop-ular. Beyond the zone of the rubber trees, the wooden ball makes its appear-ance, and a wooden club is provided for driving it. The Indians who play ball at 42 degrees S. are the Araucanians of Southern Chile, those unconquerable people who forced the Spaniards to sue for peace. In a clearing, 300 by 75 yards, inclosed by cut branches of trees, these sturdy Indians still play the game of their forefathers—chueca, which greatly resembles la crosse or field hockey. The opposing teams of 15

probably give the record exhibition of ball driving, unless we concede the palm to their ancestors, who had more leisure to devote to the game. The Arauca-nians of today are as proud of their prowess with chueca as their forebears were of resisting the Spaniards with primitive weapons. Chueca is played from childhood, and the matches draw large audiences. The game calls for great endurance and while generally played in two and three hour periods, morning and afternoon, several days have been known to pass before a de-cision has been reached. During a match it is not unusual to hear a player cry, "Am I not a real oak tree?" or "Am I not a lion's leg?" after a brilliant stroke. In the old days the game was played not only for amusement, but also as a train-ing for war. In battle a much heavier club was used, the deadly maza arau-cania, which when wielded by powerful warriors gave just reason for fear.

This• virile Chilean tribe has another popular game called pilma also descend-

THE MID-PACIFIC 419

ed from prehistoric times. Pilma pre-pared the ancient warriors to avoid the arrows and spears of the enemies. Two opponents stand 12 feet apart. One has a light fiber ball which is struck with the hand as it drops from the hips in an attempt to hit the naked body of the opponent who endeavors to avoid the ball by dodging, leaping into the air, or falling to the ground. After five balls, positions are reversed. The one securing the first 20 hits is the winner. Spectators, surrounding the contestants, return the ball to the server, showing great appreciation of skillful play.

On the high Andean plateau, stretch; ing almost the entire length of the con-tinent, the only game which seems to have survived through the centuries is "endurance dancing." In the little In-dian villages on the roof of the western world these dancing exercises, during the festival period, have been known to last the greater portion of three days and nights. The fortitude of these high-landers is marvelous.

In the old days Incan tribes, and those whom they subjugated, developed long-distance running to a point far beyond that reached by modern achievement. I believe that when the athletic clubs of the Peruvian coast recruit their runners from youthful capiris of the Andes they will win the long-distance running prizes of the world. I have had Indian guides, three miles above sea level, in Peru, who have trotted ahead of my horses from dawn till midnight, with only an occasional rest, seeming as fresh at the finish as at the start. In Andean games and sports, however, running does not play an important part. It is too often the work of each day.

In .many parts of the Americas there remains today some thriving indigenous sport in which horses play a prominent part. Although remains of the prehis-toric horse have been found in South

as well as in North America, we know that it had disappeared from the West- ern Hemisphere before the Andes rose from the sea; and that the singletoed horse was introduced by the Spaniards. Before the Europeans came, the sons of the Argentine pampas lived a much more athletic existence. Their raids on the early settlers released horses to roam the plains where they multiplied rapidly. This wild stock became com-mon property of the Indian or the white man, whoever had the ability to catch and tame them, and this was the germ of an indigenous sport soon to be de-veloped, one that is now popular with the gaucho, cowboy of the pampas.

Proballly the Indians first lassoed wild young colts with bolas, which con-sist of two or three rawhide-covered balls with connecting ropes of hide. These are swung around the head and then whirled, entangling the quarry's legs and tripping the animal to the ground. The primitive Indians also used the two-balled bola dexterously in pur-suit of the rhea, the South American os-trich, but the coming of the horse gave them an added advantage in the race which then became not only one for sustenance but a sport as well. The Eu-ropean soon learned to handle the bolas almost as well- as the Indian, and when a new horse was needed it was only nec-essary to pursue a wild band and trip one over.

The gaucho learns to ride almost as soon as he can walk, and as a mere lad races over the country, falling off his horse, tumbling purposely into rabbit burrows, and practicing the most diffi-cult feats of horsemanship. He soon takes to breaking wild colts, where death is the penalty of failing strength or courage. Nowadays the gauchos are ranch employees, following the dictates of their employers rather than their own sweet will. They love to sit around

420 THE MID-PACIFIC

the campfire at night, telling stories of the good old days when a gaucho fes-tival had the Indian game of bolas for its principal sport, when • a horseman dashed in front of his mounted oppo-nent, bringing him to earth by dexter-ous ensnaring of the horse's legs. There was enough danger in this sport to thrill even a gaucho's adventurous heart, but it was hard.on horseflesh. Even today, when the mayordomo, or superinten-dent of the estancia, is not looking, the gauchos are at it again, bolas whirling, horses and horsemen rolling in the dust. In the mounted tug of war, the chinch-ando, the horse also plays the star role, a rope fastened securely to the cinch.

Across the snowy Andes, in the smil-ing valleys of Chile, they play the uni-que game of topeo. In front of the farmhouses, under the shade of the mighty trees, are large, solidly built uprights with crossbars which serve as hitching posts, but which play a much more important role in topeo. Here the horsemen pair by lot and line up in front of the bar. One of the riders presses his horse's head forward against the bar, crossing and imprisoning the head of his opponent's horse. At the referee's call the game is on, and the rider of the caught horse endeavors to free him. The horses are as highly trained as our polo ponies, and when matched with skillful riders a single struggle may last an hour. In the pre-liminaries a dozen such contests are sim-ultaneous, with short rests between con-tests, and a day is often consumed in determining the final victor. A good

topeo match is equally exciting for the riders, horses, and spectators.

In Paraguay tilting at a small ring suspended from poles and a crossbar in the village street is a popular sport, known as ,sortija, a national game for centuries. In the interior of Venezuela and Colombia toro coleado is a feature of fiesta days. A principal street of the town is roped off and a wild bull is liberated. From 8 to 10 mounted horse-men enter the improvised arena, their only defense against attacks of the bull being their superb horsemanship and a knowledge of how to twist the bull's tail in such a manner as to cause him to tumble over. While the attention of the bull is attracted by some of the party, a horseman dashed from the rear at full speed, gives g. dexterous twist, and over rolls the bull. This sport is not without its danger, and almost every coleado festival adds to the hospital list. The honor of being champion bull-tail twister develops keen competition, for the winner is crowned with flowers by the prettiest girl in the village. Some performers become so expert as to b'

sure of their twist at a specified point, the great achievement being to bring the animal to the dust just in front of the balcony of one's ladylove.

Thus we see that indigenous sports have survived in a few isolated spots throughout a wide New World territory. The modern youth of Latin-America shows a decided fondness and aptitude for transplanted sports—but that is another story.

ttp=affi r

Among the Alaskan Tlinkats

By G. E. KASTENGREN.

Ars...m

0 F all the interesting peOples in-habiting the margins of the Pa-cific Ocean there are probably

none about whose origin so little is really known as the Tlinkat people of South Eastern Alaska. Colloquially they are called "Indians," but there is very little to connect them with the ordinary American Indian. As long as the white man has known them they have inhabited the coastal region of South-eastern Alaska. Whence they came neither they themselves nor the learned men from the Smithsonian In-stitution, nor any other students have been able to shed much light on. Their traditions have it that they came from the region of Nass River in British Columbia, which stream enters Portland Canal on North latitude 55°. A super-ficial study of the race would seem to dispose of that locality as anything but a temporary place of abode some gen-erations back.

Where the anthropologist would place them I cannot say, but were you to meet a Japanese and a Tlinkat sim-ilarly dressed it is probable that you would be unable to tell which of them

was "Indian." It is true there is considerable variation in their facial char-acteristics,, but the same holds good with the Japanese or any other peoples. As a race they are of greater stature than the Japanese, but their eyes, hair and color is similar. Linguistically they stand absolutely alone except for such taint as the neighboring tribes of the Tsimpsians and the Haidas have been mutually responsible for. Their language is extremely harsh and gut-tural ; and it has been said that the best way to learn to speak it, is to keep the mouth shut. This, sounds like hyper- bole, but it is almost literally true. They have a considerable number of elemen-tary sounds not found in any other lan-guage, and for that reason the very name of the tribe is seldom written the same way by two different authors. Hlingit, Thlingit, Tlinkat, etc., are var- iations. It may be of interest to know that "cats" becomes "doozhg," and "dogs" are "catlg" in the Tlinkat lan-guage. The final "g" makes the plural.

Their fairly pronounced 'Mongolian cast of features may, or may not, have

421

422 THE MID-PACIFIC

any connection with the following fact which however may be indicative of possibilities. In the old Pioneer Mu-seum in San Francisco, when it was housed on Seventh Street, there were three or four heavy links of a bronze anchor chain in which were cast Chin-ese characters. This was recovered from the bottom of Sitka Harbor many years ago, but there is no tradition of any visits from these strangers from Asia as far as I have been able to ascertain. It opens up possibilities for conjectures, but the stumbling block of the language of the Tlinkats spoils the otherwise pretty web of speculation. Professor Swanton of the Smithson-ian Institution, and Lieut. Emmons of the U. S. Navy, the two most ardent students of the Alaska Indians, have no pronounced views as to where this people came from. At apy rate the theory that they came from the inter-ior of British Columbia is untenable, and yet they have undoubtedly been there before they came to Southeastern Alaska unless this is their second ad- vent there. Their only "written" history is their totem poles, and the "Na- xin," • or Chilkat blanket. The latter is of greater antiquity, probably, than the totems, but both are plainly heral-dic and do not serve to throw much light on the origin of the Tlinkats, es-pecially as the latter learned the art of weaving from the Tsimpsians, and that of carving from the Haidas, both close neighbors of the Tlinkats.

Like all primitive peoples their mythology and the story of the origin of things is based on what they did not understond or could not explain. The Creator is not invested with the omnipotence commonly considered as an essential attribute of Deity. In fact, the Raven, regarded as the Creator, had decided limitations, and does not appear to have created all things, by

any means. By his lack of omnipotence he was even subjected to various in-dignities and was at times made ridi- culous. This will be taken up sep- arately in the legends of the Tlinkats.

The social structure of the tribe is very interesting. Woman held a high and honorable place in the tribe and was not barred from being chief by rea-son of her sex. As is usual the father of the family had to do the hunting and fishing while the wife, or wives, prepared the food and did much other work in preparing the skins for gar-ments. But the father had no au-thority over his children, at least the boys after they were twelve years old. At that age they were sent to their maternal uncle for education and train-ing in the arts of the chase and the manufacture of the implements thereof.

There was nothing slipshod in the handiwork of the Tlinkats. It is true they learned wood carving from the Haidas, but their style became different from that of their teachers inasmuch as their figures were carved in higher relief. Their halibut hooks were often carved with mystic figures that en-sured larger catches. Their canoes al-most invariably had the prow or stem ornamented with carved figures. In basket work and some forms of weav-ing their art expressed much more than is visible to the casual observer. Every detail of every figure means something, and is always symbolic of something that has struck deep roots in their lives. But it is in their totems where the greatest expression is found, if you know where to look for it. The to-tem is really a genealogical tree, and if you know how to interpret the grotes-que figures you can trace the alliances between the various clans of the tribe. What may be called the basic figure of a clan may be an eagle, wolf, or some mythical being created entirely by

THE MID -PACIFIC 423

their imagination very much like Don Quixote made giants out of the wind mills. The "One Legged Fisherman" is one of these heraldic figures which may well have been created from such material as a heron standing on one leg on a tide flat.

Of all the mythical beings in their rather large collection there are prob-ably none that have exercised as pro-found influence on their daily lives as the "Koosh-Ta-Ka." They were prac-tically a counterpart of the trolls of the Scandinanvian folk lore, but unlike the latter they exercised only a malign influence. Very few things went wrong with the Tlinkats for which the Koosh-Ta-Ka were not blamed. They had

• the power to abduct and entice peo-ple into their mountain fastnesses where they were held captives forever, mostly, though now and then one would escape their baneful influence. They were what may be called fourth dim-ension beings because they, and their captives, could penetrate into the rocks and cliffs.

The severe training to which their maternal uncle subjected them when he received his nephews for training made them a hardy 'race. The waters of Alaska are very cold, but the boys had to take their swims regularly in the icy sea. Before their contact with the white man, from whom they received fire arms and metallic implements, they had only the ordinary tools of the sav-age somewhat reinforced by native cop-per which was fairly abundant, and, therefor it took both courage, skill and strength, to enter into combat with sea lions and bears. Most of their food was obtained from the sea, and salmon was abundant enough in season to al-most choke the streams. Halibut of immense size was plentiful at their very front door, and the forest teemed with game.

Their great canoes, were hollowed out from a single spruce log, and they are often both speedy and graceful. Both men and women are adepts in the art of paddling, as the writer can testify from personal experience on a trip with a Tlinkat family outside of Lynn Canal in very stormy weather. Their homes were made of logs, but their shelters when on a hunting or fishing expedi-tion away from the village were often rude shelters of sticks and bark. To-day they often have fairly pretentious houses, but their surroundings are not too tidy. Yet it is not a rare thing to see a few flowers around the house. The schools have taught the younger generation the value of a vegetable and flower garden, as well as some rudi-mentary hygiene. However, the ideas of the Tlinkat run more to utility than ornamentation when you consider him c a tiller of the soil. South-easterr

Alaska does not offer large tracts of tillable soil, and gardens are often won by hard labor from the bog and forest. The mountains are high and precipi-tous, clad with spruce and an almost infinite variety of shrubs bearing lus-cious berries in great abundance. It is one of the most majestic stretches of bold scenery in the world. Yet the somber forest does not seem to have had a depressing effect on the Tlinkat, for he is of a fairly sunny disposition and not as dour and silent as the In-dians of the plains. He is quite honest, for next after witchcraft, theft was the worst crime on the calendar. Homi-cide was atoned for by slaying the slay-er, but he could buy immunity by pay-ing with blankets to the dead man's family. As witchcraft is gradually fading away under the influence of education, theft becomes the capital crime. The writer knows of only one instance where theft became anything like habitual or common. It was in

424 THE MID-PACIFIC

a certain salmon , cannery where the store-keeper complained of shop-lifting when there was a crowd in the com-pany store, but any casual observer would readily lay the blame to the harsh and manifestly unjust treatment of the Tlinkat laborers.

A curious sidelight is thrown on their modern attitude towards homicide. The Shakes clan, who claim as their totem the grizzly bear as well as the mountain goat, have for their chief Moses Shakes, a genial old gentleman of about fifty five years of age. One of his sons was murdered about 1913 on the Stikins River, and the assassin was not discovered. I asked him if he thought it was a white man or a Tlinkat who was guilty of the deed. He replied that it was not a white man, and while he had fairly well grounded suspicions as to who had done it he did not feel justified in going on the war path. White marble abounds in the mountains around Wrangell, where the chief has his home, and from that he carved a fairly well executed memo-rial totem or grave stone on which the following inscription appears :

"In memory of my son, George Shakes, who was murdered in June. 1913. The chief being a Christian de-cide not go on war path but he lives to pruve the guilty party."

How thick the veneer of civilization or Christianity is on the chief can only be conjectured.

Most of the Tlinkat clans are quite prosperous and all are self supporting. In Sitka, the old Alaskan capital, is quite a native village along the shore. Highways are practically lacking, but if there was any probability of using au-tomobiles most of the Tlinkats would surely possess one. As a substitute for automobiles they are owners of rather fine motor boats on which they go on

extensive trips, and which they use for hunting and fishing expeditions.

In the autumn when the cannery crews are paid off the local merchant, who is often a keen half breed, is fully prepared to fill the wants of anybody who has the cash. The native taste for color takes on added energy, and some of the silk petticoats and millinery are quite audible. The roof may be leak-ing badly, and the front yard may not be spick and span, but the spending orgy must run its course. Sitka went "dry" under local option before the rest of the territory. While it was against the law to sell liquor to a na-tive there were enough of renegade whites who were willing to take a chance for profit, but the practical ef-fect of the local prohibition was good and was summed up by an influential native in this manner : "When Sitka wet lots natives buy hootch, get drunk, spend all money, winter bum tea and toast, no good. Now you see fine launches, natives sober and rich."

In the autumn of 1914, with the war raging, the fur market went to pieces so badly as to cause some suffering among those who trapped for a living during the winter. Finely matched mink skins went begging at from a dol-lar and a half to two dollars. An ex-ceptionally large otter skin was offered in. Haines for six dollars. It is probable that the present high prices for furs has been reflected to the Tlinkat trapper. The half breed store keeper is a keen fellow in business. He will leave the store in charge of his family and start for the wilderness with trade goods and intercept the trapper be-fore he arrives in the town, and he gets the first pick from the pelt pack. As a considerable part of the deal is after this Armenian of the north, will reap a profit both ways.

The Tlinkats are skilled wood work-

.

THE MiD-PACIFIC 425

ers and boat builders. The old style dugout canoe is fast giving way to the modern type of boat. There are some sectarian schools doing good work in diverting the native from his old unsanitary way of living, and in these secondary schools the boys are taught the common handicrafts that will be of use to them while the girls are taught domestic science and other useful arts. These schools are not as large as the Kamehameha schools in Honolulu, but they are conducted along similar lines. In the government schools gardening is one of the arts in which instruction is given.

It may not be commonly known that in Alaska are grown the finest vege-tables in the world. This applies par-ticularly to roots such as turnips, ruta-bagas, and potatoes ; but cabbages of thirty-four pounds weight are not un- common. Rhubarb grows to great size and is almost entirely free from fiber. In all of California I have not seen as fine California poppies as in Skagway, and the same is true of sweet peas. Professor C. C. George- son, the Father of Alaskan agriculture just informed me that he has grown sugar beets containing 21.4 per cent of sugar. This is undoubtedly the worlds record. With such soil opportunities it is but natural that the educational institutions should make a particular ef-fort to train the young natives for agri-cultural pursuits, thereby giving them economic independence as well as a more varied diet, and to ward against possibilities of famine.

While there has been fierce inter-necine strife in past they have gen-erally been able to patch up their quar-rels without much blood shed. Many of their battles were caused by wife stealing but when inanimate property was in controversy some very unique methods were used. The Wolf clan owed a debt to the Eagle clan which they, for some reason, refused to pay. As there was no tribal court to which the matter could be referred, and as they did not consider it worth while to go on the warpath, they instead carved the totem of the Wolf clan and placed it on the ground, thereby indicating how they had fallen when they would not - pay an honest debt. This Wolf totem lies on the ground in front of an old house in a lumber yard in Wrangell, and at the foot of the Kad-ashan totem poles and is badly de-cayed.

As has been said before, the to-tem poles form a genealogical tree. Distinction and aristocracy could not be conferred by the chief on anyone. Personal prowess in battle or in the .chase, or the occurrence of some mystic happening in the family were the only paths to distinction. The mysterious appealed more strongly to the Tlinkat than did mere possession of blankets and other material wealth. For this reason there is a large abun-dance of legendary lore to be found among them if you choose to hunt for it systematically and sympathetically.

44,

Ihere are forests of tree ferns in Australia like those of New Zealand and Hawaii; men seem dwarfed when standing by these giant ferns.

426 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Australian Coral Isles (By Frank Reid of The Lone Hand Staff.)

SvC

I N the waters within the Great Bar-rier Reef which fringes the Queens-land coast are little green worlds,

hundreds of them, and many are in-habited by joyous people, who do not care whether there exists an outside world or other people, as innocent of curiosity as to what happens in Sydney or Melbourne as the folks of Vesta and Ceres are careless of the mightier politics of their planetary neighbors, Mars and Jupiter.

The little world may be a ring of broken corals like a pile of scrap iron, fringed with tall feathery palms, around a blue lagoon, into which breaks the endless white surf of the tropics ; or it may be the sharp crest of some uplifted mountain over a flaw in the earth's crust. If our island is a mountain-top, it will be velvet-car-peted to the summit with wide-leaved evergreen trees, intertangled with palms and tree ferns, and all inextric-ably tied together with the mesh-work

of long lianas. All along, the shores are awave with tall palms, and on the grey barrier reef, the blue sea is awash with white breakers.

There within the Barrier Reef lies Whitsunday Island. It was a grey morning, threatening rain, when we first landed on the shores of this out-of- the-way isle, and when we dragged our limp bodies into upright positions and looked around hopefully we selected a long strip of open beach for a landing place. To our left the beach curved sharply and its shores were fringed with a ring of trees. The scene reminded me of that poetical ut-terance about the "garland of green in an ocean of blue." The water below our boat was wonderfully clear, and we could see the corals below branching in every direction, and of all colours and shapes like a fairy forest. Between the corals, fish of every 'colour were swimming, some of them of gold, and some were bright blue or striped in

427

428 THE MID-PACIFIC

various colours. Parrot fish—big, handsome creatures of a vivid grass green, patched with blue dodged in and out amongst the sea weed, and where there happened to be a small patch of white sand, trepang, or beche-de-mer, as it is more commonly termed, lay scattered around.

Landing on shore we found the beach covered with vegetation, which is so common on most of these islands. Pine and candle-nut trees grew everywhere, and amongst the former grew many beautiful shrubs, some of them bearing yellow flowers with dark red centres, and others being deep crimson, like splashes amongst the leaves. One plant had beautiful white flowers, which gave out a most powerful scent and above this butterflies floated in great num- bers. However, at this moment we were not interested in the plant life on the island. What we required more than anything else was fresh water, the supply which we carried being very low, and slightly brackish. Walking along the beach for about a mile we came across a deserted but in an open space about 50 yards from the beach, and surrounded by palm trees. Scat- tered around was much wreckage, which must have been carried some considerable distance, as we had seen no signs of a wreck on the beach. Part of the but had been constructed from this wreckage, and within were two bunks which had evidently been part of a schooner's cabin furniture in the past. Probably the boat had been blown on the Barrier Reef during a storm, and had afterwards drifted to this island. After examining the wreckage and the hut, we were satis-fied that the latter had been erected many years after the schooner had found a last resting-place on the shores of this island. Who had built this but

so far away from the mainland, and for what purpose? It could not have been trepang fishermen or visitors from the mainland, or we would have traces of their occupation in the shape of empty tins, books or newspapers. The problem was solved by one of our party who had wandered further along the beach and had found concealed under a pile of shrubbery at the mouth of a nar-row creek a large whaleboat. Then . it flashed across my memory that about two years previously three convict es-capees from New Caledonia had reached Whitsunday Island, where they had concealed themselves for a time, and had constructed a rude craft out of some old wreckage. In this boat they again put to sea, and eventually reached the mainland, where they were arrested. They had abandoned their stolen whale-boat, fearing that if they reached the mainland in it the boat would be recog-nized by the police who at the time were always on the look-out for es-capees from the French convict settle-ment in the South Seas.

Food had not troubled the convicts on this out-of-the-way isle, for there still remained portions of a fish trap at the mouth of the creek, and this had been constructed somewhat after the manner of the traps made by aborigi-nals out of twigs and brambles. Crabs and shellfish were plentiful, as were the gulls' eggs. Possessed of matches when they reached the mainland they must have kept a fire burning contin. uously.

Further around the beach a large white rock, high above the waterline had the initials, "A. S." and 1855 cut in it. A short distance to the rear of this rock we came upon the well where the convicts had obtained their water. It was merely a roughly dug hole in the , sand, into which two casks had been placed, one on top of the other.

THE MID-PACIFIC 429

It is on the coral reefs which sur-round Whitsunday Island that the reefcomber—if he be a nature student—is at home. Within these reefs are count-less lagoons, some shallow, and others with an apparent depth of 50 or more fathoms. Their appearance is most ex-traordinary and beautiful, the water from the absence of debris of streams exhibits so surprising a transparency that an object the size of a man's hand may in calm weather be distinctly seen at a depth of 10 fathoms. The aspect at the bottom is that of a wilderness of marine vegetation of the most wonderful forms and gorgeous colours, seem-ing in some places to be spread over the surface of sloping hills in others to be growing out from the sides of tall pillars or towers, pierced with vast caves, in which the refracted beams of the sunshine cause the waters to glow with the colors of the opal. Between the huge caverned masses are wide spaces floored with sand, perfectly level, and white as snow, upon which the tall green mounds, covered with coral trees; throw fantastic shadows, so that in leaning over the sides of a small boat and contemplating these so re-markable appearances one cannot help being reminded of the fabled grove of Aladdin. Amongst all this are to be seen multitudes of fishes of the most extraordinary shapes and hues, gold and purple, violet and scarlet, jet black, mottled, and every shade of green. In some of the enclosed lagoons most of the fish at times are poisonous, the rea-son of which is unknown.

Here the reefcomber may see jellyfish of every hue and size. I have often watched little fishes, alarmed by the sight of an enemy, rush under these jel-ly-fish, remain there until the danger was past, and then emerge again to sport and play about their sheltering friend. Those who are• acquainted with

coral lagoons generally caution visitors to keep a safe distance from the jelly-fish when bathing in island waters in case they come in contact with the spe-cies known as the Portuguese man-of-war. Some years back two boys died in one week near this island after be-ing stung by this creature.

In bygone days when aboriginals in-habited Whitsunday Island, they could be persuaded to dive into the shallow waters of these lagoons and procure choice specimens of coral, but as such places are infested with the ferocious tiger shark the natives do not relish the task. Eight years back I watched two Borneo natives, employed on a trading schooner, diving for coral in these waters, and they proved them-selves far ahead of the aboriginals at both diving and swimming. Sponge can be seen growing in places which the tide leaves dry, but its congenial abode is in sheltered and tranquil spots, such as fissures of rocks where the water, never ruffled by the storm is deeply, darkly beautifully blue. The sponge found in these lagoons is of a very com-mon variety, and I question if it would be of use for domestic purposes.

The lagoons are also the home of the clam shell, which is generally used for decorative purposes in the gardens of suburban homes. They constitute a for-midable source of danger to visitors who are unacquainted with the reefs and wade in shallow pools. A foot inad-vertently inserted betwixt the gaping valves of a large clam is held with a grip as firm and unyielding as that of the strongest steel mantrap, and unless the assistance of a comrade with an axe or crowbar is at hand, the victim stands little or no chance of escaping a watery. grave. Should such misadventure be-fall the visitor when wading, death ap-proaches slowly with the rising tide. Several instances of loss of life among

430 THE M1D-PACIFIC

the native beche-de-mer fishermen on the Barrier Reef through the direct agency of these colossal shellfish have been reported to the writer. Under the title of "Gigantic Cockles," these clams were first recorded by Captain Cook, who attests to their excellent edible properties. Where, however, so many shellfish abound, of more tender and delicate substance and flavor, these co-lossal bivalves are, except by the ab-originals held in very little account.

The aboriginals who inhabited this island were past masters in the art of handling canoes. When the cyclone "Leonta" struck the North Queensland coast, and caused considerable damage to Bowen and Townsville, a male and female aboriginal were camped on Gloucester Island. Just before the cy-clone arose they set out in a small bark canoe towards the township on the mainland (Bowed). The distance was about 18 miles. The two aboriginals successfully crossed this stretch of wa-ter in their canoe despite the fact that the cyclone raged around them during the trip. No small boat handled by white men could have braved such a sea. I questioned the male aboriginal next morning regarding his experiences in the cyclone. "Oh it was easy," he

replied, "I been paddle all the time, while Mary been bailum out water."

Whitsunday Island is now practically deserted, but occasionally a few men, with difficulty, procure shipments of rough pine for a Townsville sawmill. There are still millions of feet of pine standing, but it will be impossible to remove it unless some expensive means can be found to haul it down the moun-tain side.

No man can tell you the joys of wan-dering on these coral reefs at low tide. The high mountain in the centre of the island reflects downwards across the shimmering water, and the dark, silent trees back up on the mainland—a set-ting worth the play, a part of the out-door magic that goes with reefcombing in these waters, and make your red blood redder, your years roll back, and conjures youth from the greyness of the past. There is an ancient proverb cur-rent in the South Seas : "If you cannot account for the milk in the cocoanut, do not hesitate to make free use of it." If you cannot account for everything you see when you go reefcombing on the isles within the Great Barrier Reef, do not hesitate to keep on reef-combing just the same.

ONE marvels at the rugged virility and endurance of the early mis-sionaries in Hawaii, especially on

the Island of Kauai. With no means of conveyance no horses, and no roads, they made really remarkable trips about the Islands and seemed to think noth-ing of it.

One of these trips calling for special endurance, and of special interest was that from Waimea to Wainiha over the mountain. (On the Island of Kauai.)

It was on the memorable occasion when Liholiho and his court were the guests of Kaumualii, that the royal parties made a tour of the island go-ing round by road in the ordinary way, leisurely, and taking a month or more for the trip. .

Things being very quiet in Waimea, the missionaries concluded to follow

A Missionary Hike in Kauai

By J. M. LYDGATE.

them, but by the more direct trail over the mountains.

They set out from Waimea, in the early morning. Hiram Bingham and Samuel Whitney, and son of Chamber-lain, as guide. Of course they went afoot—there was no other way. They got up into the forest belt, evidently in the region of Kokee, about noon when a heavy thunder storm overtook them, and they were compelled to seek shelter in a deserted but built by the sandal-wood cutters, who had been re-cently operating there.

About the middle of the afternoon the rain held up a little, and they ventured forth. But to their surprise and disappointment the rain again fell in tor- rents. Of course everything they touched ran rivers, the trail was slip-pery and muddy, they slipped and stumbled and fell at every other step ;

431

432 THE MID-PACIFI

the New England umbrellas they car-ried were useless, night was coming on, and it was a cheerless outlook ahead of them. When they were at their wits end to know what to do they ran across a couple of abandoned sandal-wood cutters shacks on the bank of a mountain torrent, probably Ka-wai-koi.

Into these they crept thankful for even this imperfect shelter. With some dry bits of wood torn from the huts they finally got a fire started, by means of which they partially dried their clothes, and warmed themselves so that sleep was possible. The rain cleared off and the stars came out clear and sparkling; but the night was cold at that elevation.

Next morning they started on at first break of day. so that about 9 o'clock they reached Kilohana, on the verge of the Wainiha valley. Burst- ing upon them suddenly and unex-pectedly, as it does, the scene which opened before them filled them with wonder and awe. "The clouds were literally spread under our feet, com-pletely bounding the view below us though we had the clear and bright sunshine where we stood, but break-ing away occasionally before we be-gan to descend from this giddy height, allowed us to see the white surf of the Pacific, rolling upon the shore, at the distance of seven miles ; while majestic and lofty mountains on the right and left, presented scenery of peculiar grandeur and beauty."

One of the surprising things about these early missionaries is the accu-racy with which they estimated dis- tances, elevations, etc. The ordinary traveller, given to exaggeration, would have made the distance to the sea ten or fifteen miles, and the elevation 6,000 or 8,000 feet, but they got them both substantially right.

Down this awful pali they scram-bled hanging on precariously by roots of trees and shrubs, and crags of rocks, the guide showing them just where to put their feet at every step.

It took them three hours to make the descent to Mauna-hina, where there was a little hamlet, and they were pretty well done out, as well as fam-ished with hunger. They threw them-selves down on the mats in a friendly house, and gladly accepted the kindly attentions of the simple natives, who were overcome with astonishment at the hardiness and nimbleness of their visitors. "Mama maoli oukou !" The most grateful thing they received at the hands of their hosts was a good, vigorous lomi-lomi treatment !

This put new life into them, and they pressed on down the river to the sea, which they reached just before nightfall, after an arduous journey in-volving many dangerous fordings of the river, which was swollen by the recent rains.

They found the royal party en-camped on the Naue flats, about half a mile west of the mouth of the river. Kaumualii apologized for the rudeness of the accommodation which he offer-ed them, as Liholiho and his retainers, as special guests were occupying everything available. He offered them a place with himself and his family, on the ground, behind a rude shelter which protected them from the strong wind in addition to this he gave them each five sheets of tapa for bed clothes, and as the night was fine they were quite comfortable.

The next day they went over to Ha-nalei by canoe and were much im-pressed by the beauty of the valley. The local konohiki prepared a suit-able paina for them, in which the stan-dard articles of Hawaiian diet were supplemented by the fruits that were

THE MID-PACIFIC 433

available, which strange to say in-cluded delicious oranges, which at that early date were already growing there, raised from seeds furnished by Van-couver.

The next morning the royal camp broke up and the two kings and their numerous retinue started home by way of Kilauea. The missionaries not car-ing to make this wearisome, long, round about trip, and scarcely ready to tackle the mountain journey again, accepted Kaumualil's suggestion to re-turn to Waimea by canoe. He kind-ly arranged matters and secured a double canoe and boatmen for them.

With a fair wind they made the run to Nuololo in a few hours,—all too quick to make the most of the magni-ficient panorama of the mountains spread out before them.

At Nuololo they found, much to their surprise, a prosperous fishing village nestled close in ' under the precipitous cliffs which towered three thousand

feet or more above them. They counted no less than 70 people in the village. Most of them out on the reef fishing. They commented with much interest, on the ladder by which the people climbed from the fishing grounds up to the taro lands in the valley above. Also on the walled up houses which nestled so close in under the overhang-ing cliff that no other roof was neces-sary. The ruing of these houses may still be seen.

Here also they saw the native fish-ermen using auhuhu, or fish poison, which they pounded up and then threw into the water where the fish were. It acted as an intoxicant, so that the fish were stupefied and were easily taken by hand. This auhuhu acts very much as digitalis does in its influence on the heart.

Resuming their journey they reach-ed Waimea by nightfall, very much im-pressed by all that they had seen and experienced in the last few days.

"iiM1=1==1-

In wonderful New Zealand there is a waterfall two thousand feet in height, the hightest waterfall in the world, named after Southerland, its discoverer.

434 THE MID-PACIFIC

The World's Wonderland By C. W. McMURRAN.

THE New-Zealanders are free from vanity and conceit, though they have achieved success in

the highest degree commendable, founding and building up a new coun-try practically within the last half- century. In the words of Holland, "To labor rightly and earnestly is to adopt the fellowship of all the great and good the world has ever known." Many men and women too, in New Zealand today have helped to subdue the primeval forests, to found cities, establish commercial industries, and to enact laws which are universally making the colony a recognized fac-tor among nations and a home of promise beyond the visions of hope.

Apart from the matchless climate of New Zealand, its commercial en-terprise and activity, its splendid scenery is a source of delighted admira-tion to the traveller in search of sunny climates and happy regions. The Maorilanders do 'not boast of their business achievements, but they love to speak with natural pride of their country's snow-clad mountains, its

fertile plains and valleys, the great icefields of Mount Cook—the lordly giant of the Southern Alps—the shape-ly cone of Mount Egmont, and all the unrivalled beauties of their native land. But above all these are the enchant-ing scenes of the wonderland of the South Pacific, of which the New-Zea-landers speak with a feeling of little less than patriotic reverence.

The thermometer normally registers that delightful point of 65° in January in the northern part of the North Is-land when the express train leaves Auckland daily for Rotorua.

At 131 miles from Auckland the train reaches Okoroire, a center of trout-fishing aid deer-stalking. A finely appointed hotel is built on the summit of a mountain-range, far back from the railway-station, near the banks of the Waihou River, where guests have the choice of half a dozen different hot mineral baths under most alluring conditions. The large bath- houses are situated down under the gorge of the mountains, where hot sul-phuric springs furnish the ever-flow-

435

436 THE MID-PACIFIC

ing healing waters to the swimming-pools, which are of different degrees of temperature suitable to the conditions and wants of patients. Some pools are located directly under over-hanging fern-covered mountain cliffs, where the bather has the canopy of the open sky, and can watch the heal-ing waters coursing and steaming down the moss-clad rocks to the pool.

A few miles from the hotel is the Auckland Acclimatisation Society's trout-hatchery, where millions of young fish are turned out annually, while hundreds of thousands of three-months-old fish and tens of thousands of yearlings are liberated in the streams every year within the Auckland and the Okoroire districts. The Acclima-tisation Society, under Government regulations, imposes a fisherman's li-cense fee of $2y2 on all who fish with a reel. The wise restrictions which the acclimatisation societies have insti-tuted are making New Zealand the "Sportsman's Paradise" of the South Pacific. Nowadays enthusiastic rod- and-gun men from England and Aus-tralia make annual trips to the rivers and streams and game-coverts.

By coach-and-four there is a fine bush drive of forty miles across coun-try to Rotorua. ' The Government road goes winding along the hills and gorges and beneath hanging ferns. By the roadside are fern-trees whose stems are as tall and stout as, telephone-poles, rising to a height of from 10 ft to 15 ft., the umbrella-like fronds spread-ing out on the top.

Approaching Rotorua, you see the outlying whares (houses) of the Maoris (pronounced "Mowries"), who acquired the titles to their land in some res-pects similar to the manner in which the American Indians acquired theirs.

The actual "when of the Maoris" is involved in mystery, but the late Sir

George Grey, the late Judge Fenton. and Messrs. S. Percy Smith, Tregear, Best, and many others, have achieved some success in endeavouring to solve the problem. One school of ethnolo-gists, headed by Mr. C. E. Nelson, has formed a theory that the Maoris are of Semitic and Hamitic descent, and that they originally came from the shores /of the Persian Gulf and from South Arabia, making their way east-ward, via Java and other halting-places, to the islands of the Pacific. This idea was afterwards taken up by Judge Fenton, from information sup-plied by Mr. Nelson, and it was elab-orated in Fenton's "Suggestions for a History of the Origin and Migrations of the Maori People." It is to some extent supported by Mr. S. Percy Smith. The theory has been strength-ened and defined by philosophical com-parisons and recognition of _ customs and geographical names on the coasts of Arabia which bear a strong resem-blance to those that have been in use among the Maoris from time immem-orial. While in America recently Mr. Nelson visited all the ethnological mu-seums he could reach, and he found in them some very striking Maori-like relics and implements. In the Smith-sonian Institute, at Washington, he saw a black stone club or patu of basaltic stone, found in Colorado of the Maori pattern, besides stone and bone weapons of ancient American tribes exactly like the Maori mere, and investigations in many other quar-ters tended to confirm the theory. In conclusion, as the result of his obser-vations, Mr. Nelson is of opinion that the Semitic- Cushite Arab forefathers of the Maori most probably found another race of mixed American, In-dian, and Mongolian (Japanese, Kor-ean and Chinese) extraction already scattered through the islands of the

THE MID-PACIFIC 437

Pacific ; that this original race taught the new-corners the art of carving (which probably came from the people of north-west America), and the two races intermingled and formed the present Polynesian stock.

The assertion, so often made by per-sons who possess only a superficial knowledge of the subject, that the Maoris have no history has been com-pletely disproved and no longer holds any place in scientific researches. The history of the Maori race is contained in traditions, songs and legends which have been carefully handed down by the ancestors of the tribes. During the hearing of a protracted and vexa-tious land claim in Auckland some years ago one of the claimants pro-duced in evidence a notched and carved stick, tracing backwards the genealogy of the tribe through a period exceeding five hundred years ! No doubt the com-pilation of legends and tribal history now being carried on under the direction of the Minster of Native Affairs, will result in important and reliable dis-coveries. It is a work which has been too long neglected, and was in some danger of being partly obscured in the mists of time.

The presence of the Maori element, with its songs, dances and strange habits and customs, adds greatly to the attractions of this "region of marvels." They are an intelligent and quick-witted people, and under the in-fluence and teachings of the Native schools, including technical and indus-trial institutions, and the sanitary re-forms of the Public Health Depart-ment, they are rapidly becoming Euro-peanized in their modes of living. The Maori form of salutation, which is equivalent to our "Good day," is "Tena koe," or "That is you" ; but where two friends have been long parted, or a distinguished guest is being honored,

the common fashion is to press nose to nose and give vent to a prolonged wailing cry.

The Maoris have four representatives in the House of Representatives and two in the Legislative Council, all men of high lineage and natural orators.

The better class of Maoris dress in the European fashion, but generally the men and women have a penchant for brilliant colors. This is a feature which more or less distinguishes all aboriginal races dwelling in sunny climates,. and from which a certain class of civilized people are not wholly free. The "dandies" of last century were as fond of display as the dancers at a fancy-dress ball at the present day.

Many of the Maori chiefs derive in-comes from real estate, and under the new system of land administration will in course of time become wealthy land-lords.

One of the most prominent charac-teristics of all sections of the Native race is their genial hospitality and courtesy to visitors. They have their own churches of different denomina-tions, and most of them are adherents of the Christian religion. The ancient chiefs were polygamous, and there are a good many followers of Joseph Smith, whose doctrines were introduced by elders from Utah, but the tenets of the very much-married Brigham Young have not obtained any great hold on the Maori mind.

A native funeral ceremony (tangi) is a solemn and an impressive spec-tacle. The Maori relatives and fellow-tribal members assemble from a dis-tance of many miles, sit about the corpse, which is laid in state, and croon their solemn funeral dirges. Al-ternate mourning and feasting mono-polize the time, sometimes extending over a period of weeks, the length be-ing regulated by the degree of mama

438 THE MID -PACIFIC

possessed by the deceased. In many cases the house of death is tapu, and is burned down. No Maori other than a tohunga (priest) would touch a corpse, and the widow must abstain from food for several days after the death of her husband, and she is di-vested of her hair. In the olden days the weapons and other valuables of the deceased were often buried with

the body. It is related that, on the occasion of a comparatively recent tangi over the remains of the child of a chief, her piano, perambulator, dolls, and other possessions were interred with the body. Valuable greenstones have been frequently disclosed in ex-cavating old Maori burying-places, where the dead had been disposed in a sitting position.

Something About

Japanese Painting

(By Henry P. Bowie of "The Tourist Staff.)

THE foreigner who for the first time sees a Japanese painting is generally unable to understand or

appreciate it. He instinctively compares it with Western oil paintings to which he is accustomed and, finding that it lacks every thing they contain, he con-cludes that Japanese painting is of no real artistic value or interest.

The foreigner's habit of mind, as a rule, is at once to compare thein with things in his own country and being ig-norant of the laws controlling them, to condemn them as not worth further in-vestigation. And so with Japanese painting. But if we desire to enjoy that art we must divest ourselves of all prejudice and be willing to learn some-thing of the laws upon which it is based. To compare it with occidental art—with which it really has little or nothing in common—is a trivial waste of time.

Painting has flourished in Japan for twelve centuries or more, and its laws

are as definite and comprehensive as it is possible for the human mind and aes-thetic sense to formulate.

The most essential characteristic of a Japanese painting is in the strength or vigor of the brush stroke. In Western art that is neither requisite nor pos-sible. Brush strength is the result of an artistic impulse imparted from the shoulder through the hand to the charged brush at the moment it is applied to the paper or painting-silk, and can not be repeated or repaired. It registers the artist's sentiment or soul at a psychic moment and is, as it were, the very life blood of the painting, and every stroke contains and imparts such vital vigor to the work. In an oil painting such results are impossible,—the brush may be applied many times to and over the some place until a desired effect is ob-tained.

Another special feature of a Japanese painting is that it is executed with what we call India ink, or sumi, a black pig-

439

440 THE MID-PACIFIC

ment made either in China or in Japan. Those paintings which contain no colors are known as sumi or black pigment pictures, and are much esteemed by con-noisseurs. With the dexterous use of sumi the most wonderful effects in tex-tures and light and shade called Boku Shoku, are obtained. In western art sumi is never employed.

Living movement, called Sei Do, is another special characteristic of oriental painting and is based upon the principle that whatever an artist paints he must feel the very nature of, at the moment he applies the brush. If a rock by the sea coast be introduced, the artist at the instant of painting it must feel that such rock will forever stubbornly resist the force of the wildest waves. If a fly-ing duck be the subject, at the moment it is being executed the artist must expe-rience within himself the very impulse which the duck's wings impart as it whizzes through space with vertiginous speed. Should a tiger be painted, at the moment its claws are executed, its face depicted, and its eyes laid in, the artist must fully experience, and realize the savage, feline cruelty of that animal. This marvelous psycological law is the secret by which such extraordinary vi-tal effects are secured.

Another essential of a Japanese work of art is called Ki In, or spiritual mani-festation. It is a firm conviction in the Orient that every painting reflects the state of mind of the artist executing it. His soul is laid bare by his work, which is un etat d'ame, and this psychic prin-ciple determines its real value. If ele-vated sentiments prevail when the work is achieved, the observer will experience sentiments in viewing it. Just as we are unconsciously favorably impressed by the nobility of soul in persons we may meet, so a good painting will im-press those to whom it may be shown. It reflects the very nature of the artist

and, be the work otherwise faultlessly executed in all its features, if Ki In, or spiritual manifestation, be lacking, the painting is condemned as a real work of art.

Every Japanese Painting is controlled by a principle called Ten Chi Jin (Heav-en-Earth-Man), which requires that it exhibit a leading feature, with its ad-junct and accompaniments.

For instance in a landscape a moun-tain may be the chief point of interest (Ten) a river at the base, the adjunct (Chi), and trees and animals its neces-sary accompaniments (Jin). This is a canon or doctrine of universal applica-tion not only in painting but in archi-tecture, garden, and flower arrangement —versification or poetry and other achievements of human mind. It is a fundamental law of composition or con-struction.

Another set of laws established in China, where oriental art took its origin, and enumerated by a great painter and art writer named 0. I. Makitsu requires that in A landscape where the mountain is of a given height the trees must be one tenth that size, horses one tenth smaller than the trees, and human be-ings the size of a small bean (Jo san seki ju, Sun ba to jin) ; again that dis-tant water shows no waves, distant trees no leaves, man at a distance no features.

A favorite painting subject with ori-ental artists is known as the 4 paragons and refers to the orchid, bamboo, plum and chrysanthemum, and the laws ap-plicable to painting them are numerous and unique.

For instance the leaves of the orchid must be so crossed as naturally to re-call the shape of the eye of the elephant or of the phoenix, and so pointed as to suggest a rat's tail while those leaves painted with a downward bending ten-dency must yet suggest that their nat-

THE MID-PACIFIC 441

ural inclination is to point to the sky. This principle is called Bo Un, or cloud longing, and imparts wonderful vigor. In the bamboo subjects, laws determine, the form of their knots, the stag horn shape of their slender branches, the fish-like shape of the leaves, the digitate character of the leaf building, the fish scale pattern for leaf cluster combina-tion of and the like. In the plum subject, quaint principles obtain, among others, that the branches in crossing suggest the Chinese character for woman, and that the stamens be painted with the sentiment of the Chinese char-acter for little (sho).

In the chrysanthemum there are even laws for the petals which must illustrate a principle of widest application called In Yo, or the male and female, Light and Shade, Positive and Negative.

Another interesting feature in Orien-tal art is the extensive use made of certain Chinese characters in producing most satisfactorily artistic effects. Such characters are not literally written in, but the sentiment of their construction is invoked, and marvelous effects pro-duced. For instance in tree foliage the Chinese character called Kai is invoked with surprisingly natural results. Again there is a law called the law of dots regulating leaf effects according to the most ingenious principles. There is an-other marvelous law regulating the eighteen recognized ways of painting the lines of the garments (E mon ju hachi byo).

It will be readily perceived from the foregoing rapid sketch of the subject that unless a foreigner has some special instruction in this wonderful art, it is impossible for him to form a satisfac-tory judgment or opinion concerning it or its products.

It should be added that there are various schools of Japanese paint-ers, among others the Tosa, Kano, Maruyama, and . Ukiyoye. The Tosa painters reproduce Japanese court scenes and pictures more or less con-nected with the nobility and_use colors most successfully in their work.

The Kano painters reproduce Chinese scenery and Chinese subjects and their work is generally executed in. Sumi more in mass than with line and is im-pressionistic in character, detail being eschewed and sentiment and suggestion aimed at. Sometimes perspective seems lacking, but if so it is purposely omitted.

The Maruyama painters, Okyo and followers, are more accurate in execu-tion, their work being the result of care-ful sketching. Birds, flowers, animals, landscapes, and human beings are the subjects of this school.

The Ukiyoye painters including Ho-kusai and Hiroshige, both real genuises, represent the popular school and repro-duce everything of interest in the ev-eryday life of the common peoples. From this school originated the Jap-anese prints so much esteemed by for-eigners; to whom Utamaro, Harunobu, Toyokuni and Koryusai are household names.

In this connection be it remarked that such xylographs, ezoshi or nishikiye as they are called, are not regarded by Japanese painters as true works of art and in no sense are they to be con-sidered Japanese paintings. They are simply prints ; they are not the inspired works of one artist, but the calculated result of the collaboration of several workmen ; they are as a rule concerned with unelevated subjects or characters such as actors, geisha and the like.

442 THE MID-PACIFIC

By H. A. DOERING.

IF you are fond of volcanoes go to Garoet. There you find yourself in a dell around and above which

five volcanoes rise like the petals of an enormous flower. The advantages of spending a few days at Garoet are many. In the first place it is cool being 2,300 feet above sea-level. In the second place it boasts of numerous ex-cursions and motor rides, which may be reckoned amongst the most beautiful to be made in Java. In the third place it is an ideal place for walks, the near vicinity of the city not being very hilly, thus making walking a pleasure and not a task.

Garoet is a pretty little "town, so completely smothered in vegetation that at many places you cannot see more than one house at a time. The hotels with a single exception are all in the near neighborhood of the sta-tion and it boasts of an up-to-date

sanatorium distanced some two miles, which as hotel and sanatorium alike is much frequented.

Although. the place is the seat of an Assistant-Resident and a Regent (na-tive chief), it is comparatively an un-interesting town in itself, but its situ-ation in the very centre of a group of volcanoes, its variety of beautiful excursions, its clean and excellent ho-tels, have made Garoet not only a favorite health resort but also the most visited headquarters. The drives, walks and rides around Garoet, the changing aspects of the neighbour-ing volcanoes, the hot baths, lakes and craters, in fact all the natural wonders that are found near Garoet, make the place rank foremost amongst the mountain resorts of Java.

There is an interesting passar at Garoet and besides the lavish display of nature's products, there are curious

443

444 THE MID-PACIFIC

baskets, hats and mats brought from the surroundings of Tasikmalaya where this native industry is found. The town square or aloon-aloon is faced by the dwellings of the native Regent and the European Assistant-Resident. and by the quaint Misigit or Mahom-meddan mosque.

The great excursion from Garoet is the one to the crater of the Papanda-jan, a mountain whose extended lines (some fifteen miles in length by six in' breadth) match its syllables and which has been in vigorous eruption a century and a half ago ; as yet it still steams and rumbles across the plain and may at any moment burst forth again.

At the last eruption of the Papanda-jan in 1772 there was a great convul- sion, a solid part of the mountain was blown out into the air, streams of lava poured forth, and ashes and cinders covered the earth for miles around with a layer some feet thick, destroying forty villages and killing three thousand people in one day. The scar of this great crater or "blow out hole" near the summit of the mountain is still visible from the plain and the plumes and columns of smoke ascend-ing from it, remind one of its unpleas-ant possibilities.

The first part of the way to the Papandajan one travels by automobile or trap, and rugs will come useful, for the start is made in the early morning and the air at that hour in Garoet is more cold than refreshing. For some miles one drives across the plain along hard sandy white roads, continuously bordered by shade trees. Just after leaving Garoet some irrigation works are gone by and the frequent villages one passes with their peculiar houses, having quite elaborate worked balus-trades and verandahs, are of absorbing interest.

It is a drive of 11 miles nearly due South to the village of Tjisoeroepan, some 4,000 feet up in the hills ; there the traps are left behind and mostly a light breakfast is taken at the Hotel Villa Pauline which is situated there, before resuming the journey on rough wiry little mountain ponies or by sedan chairs.

From Tjisoeroepan to the Papanda-jan crater is a ride of over two hours and an ascent of about 2,500 feet for the most part through the typical tropical forest, where every moment brings some new thrill of pleasure. Magni- ficent trees, giants of the jungle. graceful ferns, brilliant flowers, snake- like creepers and wonderful orchids combine in adding to one's enjoyment. No description, no sketch nor photograph can adequately picture the mysterious fascination of the jungle. There is an atmosphere, a dreamy undescrib- able something in these dense forests which has a peculiarly intoxicating ef-fect on the nerves and senses and makes one feel like a happy child. The beauty of the scene, the marvelous exuberance of nature, absolutely car-ries one away for the time being.

Finally the road emerges from the forest on a stretch of open trail, passes a series of sulphur terraces over which trickles a stream of luke warm water and continues for a short dis-tance over yellow and brown porous grounds.

A little further the break in the crater wall is 'reached and the traveller dismounts, to ascend on foot along a rough, steep mountain path to the edge of the main crater, 8460 feet above sea-level.

Climbing over the path of broken rock one is soon in a position to view • the entire crater basin, an irregular valley which is crossed by a small stream. This crater basin is some

THE MID- PACIFIC 445

two miles in circumference and on all sides with the exception of a place where part of the mountain was blown away, surrounded by steep walls, which partly are as yet bare, partly covered with forests, and rise steeply some six to nine hundred feet in the air. The crater bottom is quite bare, a well de-fined path running through it and leading to the many curious phenom-ena of this uncanny place. • Here the traveller may investigate at close range a variety of strange manifestations of volcanic activity ; he may poke sticks in bubbling pools of hot grey mud and boiling water or di-vert himself by throwing small sticks or stones into the • openings of, sizzl-ing little mud volcanoes, miniature cones, two or three feet high which resent such actions most venomously and quickly vomit out with angry splutters the object of their aversion.

Here and there gleaming masses of yellow sulphur are seen, deposits emitted from brown stained cracks which at the same time pour forth columns of vapour and suffocating gases.

At other points from narrow fissures, as from the safety valve of a boiler, slender streaks of steam escape to the outer air with a hissing sound.

Nearly everywhere the ground under one's feet has an unpleasant hollow, springy and unreliable feeling and in many places a very considerable heat is felt even through thick boots, and one can easily understand the native legends of chained giants groaning in-side the mountain, when listening to the roaring and hissing from all sides of the quaking solfatara combined with the rumblings and underground noises which now and then are heard.

On the return trip, a magnificent view over the plain of Garoet is re-vealed. Away in the north the moun-

tains are of a silvery and transparent blue. The rich yellows and greens of the rice fields soften into a light and ten-der green on nearing the margin of the lakes in the valley. It is like a checker board of green and glistening fields in-dicating hidden villages and bright patches of water glistening in the sun-shine.

The various and beautiful colors around seem to tingle with light and warmth as the clean sun shines on them and the keen mountain air blows over them—a sharp contrast with the desolate and awe-inspiring place just left.

Garoet is one of the many places in Java having thermal springs which are only a couple of miles distant. The trip is mostly combined with the one to the lovely lakes of Leles and Bagen-dit, being a beautiful morning drive.

It takes about three quarters of an hour to drive from Garoet to Sitoe Bagendit, a small lake which derives its name from its shape, more or less fancifully thought to resemble the hilt of a kris.

The houses of the districts passed testify to the thrift and well-being of the people. Many of them are quite elaborate, with tiled roofs, balustraded verandahs, split bamboo screens and blinds.

The Soendanese dwellings may eas-ily be distinguished by their high gables and several layers of roofs and by the continuation of the front cross parts several feet beyond their inter- section. At the native forges in the villages gone by a peculiar form of bellows is seen in use. Upright wooden cylinders in and out of which huge pistons are pushed and pulled by man power are connected with the fire by • long pipes—a primitive and at the same time curiously complicated contrivance.

446 THE MID-PACIFIC

Reaching the lake of Bagendit through a short stretch of main street of the village at its borders, one has to wait a little while if wanting to go for a row on the lake, the raft on which one has to navigate the waters of the lake, mostly not being directly ready for use. Of this space of time the village children always make use to play the "Anklong" musical instru-ments consisting of rows of flexible bamboo reeds, secured at the lower ends to a wooden base. When shaken, these reeds give forth a melodious music which, despite its strangeness is quite agreeable to the ear.

The raft which is punted or rowed across the lake looks like a kind of floating summer house. Two dugouts are placed parallel to one another at a distance of about 5 or 6 feet and then rested on a platform or flooring over which rises a roof supported by four cornered posts.

In the rather shaky pavilion one is seated on European chairs while a crew of four squats in the projecting bows and sterns of the dugouts to paddle.

The trip is only of short duration but well worth while, the people fish-ing in the lake making it especially an interesting and picturesque excursion. A small hill on the other side of the lake has on its top a covered shelter from which a splendid view of volcanoes can be had. ' The scene is wonderfully impressive and the smoke rising from some of these great cones brings one to the realisation of the fact that these mountains are alike the creators and destroyers of the fertile lands around them, responsible alike for the extraordinary riches of the soil and for those upheavals which from time to time without warning ruin the crops and turn these beautiful valleys into scenes of misery and desolation.

Hawaii's Great Opportunity (By Riley H. Allen.)

ALL of the inevitable great future of trade in the Pacific somehow con-cerns Hawaii.

It is fully expected that the biggest trade on the Pacific will be between the ports of America and those of China 'and Siberia. This will mean steamers, and steamers will mean ports of call en route across the ocean.

Seattle's destiny as a factor in ocean commerce was never clearer than is Ho-nolulu's, providing Honolulu plans on an ample scale.

Honolulu is a logical port of call for trans-Pacific steamers. It is agreed that when America's new great commercial fleet gets into full action there will be a great traffic in and out of Honolulu harbor—if the harbor can handle it.

What is the answer? Even in Vladivostock, this icebound

port of Siberia, signs of blossoming American commercial activity are evi-

dent. Even under the abnormal condi-tions of civil war, frequent revolutionary uprisings, devaluated currency, disor-ganized transportation facilities, and a considerable anti-American propaganda, thes re is vast promise for future trade of great benefit to Siberia and to America.

I sat recently in a tiny office high up in a great stone building on a main street. The office is unpretentious,

.even obscure. Yet in it there is trans-acted one of the largest for businesses in Siberia. The central figure in the office is a veteran fur buyer from St. Louis. In and out of the door ebbs and flows a curious and intensely interest-ing tide of humanity—Russians, Buriats, Saghalien and Amur gulf fishermen, Chinese, Japanese, Koreans ; trappers, brokers, traders, speculators, buying and selling the skins which will adorn the white throats and smooth shoulders of metropolitan beauties, or drape the fig-

447

448 THE MID-PACIFIC

ures of movie stars, or decorate the li-braries of millionaires.

They come to trade in the glossy brown sables that are the most costly skins in the world—and just now attain-ing unprecendented heights ; or the yel-low and brown fitch ; or the dappled marten ; or the tawny red fox ; or the crisp white fox ; or the game skins that go to America for rugs—brown bear, great Siberian wolf, or the magnificent polar bear.

This buyer knows his business. He will buy anything from a tiny ermine (not over 15 inches long) to a Siberian tiger skin that covers 11 feet. He will buy a single skin or one hundred thou-sand. He buys with a rapidity which reminds me more than anything else of the lightning trades on the floor of the Chicago wheat pit. And he buys be-cause he knows that America presents a tremendous demand for Siberian furs.

Forty fur buyers were here not long ago, and the majority were Americans. The majority of those Americans, after bucking the well-nigh hopeless game of trying to build a permanent trade under present conditions, feel that Siberia is perhaps not an immediately profitable field, but that in the years to come it will be one of the greatest of America's foreign customers.

Before the big war broke out in 1914 Germany had a stranglehold on much of the trade of Siberia. The German gen-ius for subterranean activity furthering its own imperialistic ends never was bet-ter illustrated than in what happened in the movie field. Siberia, by the way, and European Russia, too, for that mat-ter, is one of the most fertile fields the movie man could wish. The majority of the people are illiterate ; they have little with which to amuse themselves ; the long winter nights and necessity for re-maining indoors gives them idle time ;

and the one form of diversion which reaches from the aristocrat to the un- lettered peasant is the movie show. And so in every city and town where I have found movies they were crowded.

German movie producers did not over-look such fat pickings, nor did they ig- nore the value of this field for exploiting German "kultur." German-made films were being shown, when the war came, from Archangel to Vladivostok ; from Odessa to Nicolaievsk, on the mouth of the Amur that empties into the Ohkhotsk sea. And you can understand that in the subtle way of German prop-aganda, the might and power and future supremacy of Germany were delineated and glorified.

One Russian moving picture man told me that he had a string of theaters in Siberia when the war broke out and that nearly all of his films were supplied from Germany. He said that the Ger-mans made surprisingly low rates for the Russian houses and that they would even supply films without charge when a penniless producer wished to under- take a new enterprise. After the war came, and the Russians began to exam-ine the methods of German propaganda, they found that these films supplied free were loaded with pro-German propa-ganda.

Thus it was in many other commer-cial lines in Siberia—machinery, electri- cal apparatus, chemicals, textiles, and perhaps especially in educational mate-rials, books, maps, laboratory equipment, etc. The Russian and German educa-tional systems were tied together by the force of thousands of professors and students who went from one country to the other. Comparatively few Russians in Siberia speak English, but an aston- ishingly large number speak German and have studied at German universities. I think the majority of the physicians and educators I have met are thoroughly

THE MID-PACIFIC 449,

schooled in German philosophy and sci-ence.

The reaction against _ Germany was immediate in 1914, and its intensity grew as the stories came out of the pro-German party in the czar's court. Yet, after the Brest-Litovsk treaty, there was apparent the beginning of another sea-son of activity in trade relations between Germany and Russia, felt even into Si-beria. The reason is that Russia and Siberia are famishing for commodities, and Germany is finding time somehow in the midst of her other troubles to be-gin a rebuilding of the oldtime struc-ture of mutual trade.

If the Allied nations allow Germany to have her way in Russia and Siberia the path is clear to a future alliance, which will menace the world. This is not to say that the Russians desire such an alliance. I have talked with many of them, and almost without exception they feel that the good of Russia lies in other roads than those which lead to German trade relations. But they also say that the 180,000,000 Russians are in such great need of the economic ne-cessities that they will turn even to an enemy if that enemy can supply them. And Germany will move heaven and earth to supply as much as possible, even at cost of some shortage at home.

Although anti-American propaganda has been rather stiff in Siberia during the past few months, especially in the autumn of 1919,. I cannot feel that it fairly represents the sentiment of the people. It reflects two things—one ele-ment of the people who are really anti-American, for any one of a multitude of reasons ; and the bitterness, suffering and disillusionment of a great mass of humanity who hoped the Allied expedi-tions would bring peace to their land. It is also due to the state of mind of a people chronically short of food, cloth-ing and ordinary comfort. You would

not expect a fever patient to be normal ; you need not be surprised that there is anti American propaganda based merely on the super-irritation and mental sick-ness of a people plunged in tragedy.

Many a Russian, in widely varying walks of life, has said to me that what Siberia needs is not American rifles but American clothes, machinery, school books and garden seeds.

I believe that Siberia offers the Amer-ican business man quite as great an op-portunity as does South America. Not immediately, for the civil war is not over, the standard rouble currency is al-most worthless ; customs houses, steamer and railway transportation, and banking are disorganized. There is still ahead a period of flux, a season of evolution through the violence of the present to the stability of the future. It would be foolish to try to say how long that pe-riod will be—perhaps six months, per-haps five years. But it seems likely, that even during the state of change some business will continue, and that • American business men who put their faith in Siberia and constantly endeavor to build up relations on lines of ordinary, common, every day honesty, fair deal-ing and freedom from graft of any sort, will in the future find their orig-inal investment drawing handsome divi-dends.

The American expeditionary forces are already withdrawing from Siberia. The American Red Cross is withdraw-ing all of its women personnel, and is leaving a unit of male personnel to dis-tribute the supplies on hand for the re-lief of the destitute and to equip Rus-sian hospitals and other institutions to carry on after the Red Cross goes. There is no question that the year and a half of American Red Cross activity has had a great effect on Siberia. In spite of illiteracy, in spite of disorganized railway and telegraph facilities, in spite

.450 THE MID-PACIFIC

of lack of newspapers, except in a few of the larger cities, in spite of the pre-occupation of the people with their po-litical, military and economic troubles, news that the American people sent mil-lions of dollars' worth of relief supplies and more than 300 American men and women to work for the relief of the Si-berians, has slowly spread from the cen-ters of population to the remote peasant hamlets and the isolated trading posts.

I have come to feel that this work will be far more recognized in the next ten or fifteen years than now. Its ef-fect on the relations of America and Si-beria will be correspondingly more evi-dent.

Half a dozen large American firms—transportation and import and export—have their eyes on Vladivostok, and many an unpretentious civilian who has drifted in and out of this port in the past year was the "scout" for some great American house, looking over the pos-sibilities. One of them told me that he .would recommend to his home office not to come here just now, but to shape all their plans with the idea that in a year or so they would go after the trade of Siberia in a big way. He was con-vinced that America will emerge from the present welter of conflicting senti-ment here as the best liked of all for-eign nations and also convinced that the Siberians would trust both American goods and American national intentions. And that combination of sound goods and unselfish intentions is unbeatable—if backed by the right punch and en-ergy.

All of the inevitable great future of trade on the Pacific somehow concerns Hawaii. As stated at the beginning of this aricle, signs of American commer-cial activity are evident in this port.

American business men, I hope, will build on the future of Siberia by fair dealing in those goods which America best of all nations can supply and which Siberia needs so sorely. I fully expect the biggest trade on the Pacific to be that between the American ports and the ports of China and Siberia. This means steamers, and steamers mean ports of call en route across the wide ocean. This means Honolulu.

A number of years ago when Seattle had the same question up in the news-papers, the commercial organizations and the trade bodies. If Seattle had let doubt about the future tie her hands, she would be still a struggling Puget Sound town. But Seattle decided to play the game on big principles, to equip herself for a generation to come with ample harbor facilities—and the Seattle punch went with that decision. Today Seattle is outstripping San Francisco in her ocean commerce, and American shipping men who come to Vladivostok say that Seattle's harbor facilities will make her a greater city than the south-ern metropolis.

Seattle's destiny as a factor in ocean commerce was never clearer than is Ho-nolulu's — provided Honolulu plans on an ample scale. I have been interested in talking with the masters of freighters which touch here. I generally ask them as to the prospects of Hawaii playing a big part in the future commerce of the Pacific. Some of them have not been in the port of Honolulu, and can only say that it is a logical place of Call. Those who have been at Honolulu agree that when our new great commercial fleet gets into full action, there will be a great traffic in and out of Honolulu harbor—if the harbor can handle it.

Some soldiers of China.

Athletes in China's Army (By Rodney Gilbert.)

ABOUT 15 years ago the study of the . Japanese system of self-de-fense generally known as jiu-

j itsu became very popular in Occidental countries. Japanese professors of the art were permanently retained ; some Euro-peans and Americans came to the Far East to take post-graduate courses in Ja-pan, and the impression they gave was that jiu-jitsu was very much more than a system of wrestling tricks, and that it involved a profound knowledge of the human anatomy. The writer does not remember that while jiu-jitsu was re-ceiving all this advertising abroad, it

was ever mentioned that it was not na-tive to Japan but, like so much else in Japan, had been originally borrowed from China. That the system of wrest-ling which is parent to jiu-jitsu is still cultivated in China, and is now widely taught, only recently became known to the writer, and though many others may be fully aware of this, it is probably not commonly known that the Chinese pro-fessors of the art claim that the Japa-nese system of self-defence is incom-plete and that the old Chinese science of self-defence is still superior.

The most ardent living patron of phy-

451

452 THE MID-PACIFIC

sical training along old Chinese lines is the Commander of the 2nd Division of the Frontier Defence Army and of the 47th Mixed Brigade, General Ma Liang, now Occupation Commissioner at., Tsi-nanfu.

For 18 years General Ma has been working upon a revival of ancient Chi-nese military training ; that he has trained more than 30,000 students in this revivified science and has introduced his system of physical culture into so many branches of the army that more than 300,000 soldiers are indirectly his pu-pils in a system of physical training de-signed to school them in self-defence.

The writer has witnessed the sports of many peoples, has been in the audi-ences of all the great circuses and Wild West shows, and is familiar with all the Occidental sports from boxing to la-crosse, but he has never seen a perform-ance in which more skill and agility were shown or an exhibition of rougher horse-play than that which is provided by the men who drill in Tsinan under General Ma Liang's personal supervi-sion.

The dramatic features of the perform-ance, like all Chinese affairs of the kind, are perfect. One feels throughout that no feature of the drill was ever designed without having the spectator in mind. To the European, this detracts a little from the performance and he is bound to get the impression that the training, is more showy than practical, and that while much that is done is exceedingly graceful and requires much agility, it is much better adpated to the theatre than to the actual field of combat. The Chinese of course, never get this im-pression.

Almost every foreigner who is inter-ested in Chinese affairs has seen dis-plays of sword manipulation in the thea-tre. The hero of the piece rushes out with a glittering blade in each hand,

slashes the air with them in all direc-tions, does all manner of wonderful ac-robatics which frequently force him to tun his unprotected back to the enemy, and one's Chinese friends explain in an impressed tone after it is all over, that this paragon of agility was fighting 50 enemies. It would be very unjust to General Ma indeed, to give the impres-sion that his whole performance is of this character but there is enough of it introduced to make the Chinese spec-tators gasp and to make any foreign witnesses who have seen real broad-sword contests smile. If one views the whole performance as nothing more than a show, an entertainment, he is bound to confess it is one of the best he has ever seen, and that most of the acrobats and swordsmen in Chinese the-atres are amateurs compared with Gen-eral Ma's soldiers, everyone of whom is thoroughly drilled in the various arts of which samples are given during the performance.

The show begins gently and placidly with a drill in callisthenics and comes to a climax in a whirlwind of violence in which the performers are groups of sun-blackened over-muscled men of terrific strength and agility, none of whom one would care to meet in the dark. The drill-ground is a small court in which the earth has been rolled hard and from which every pebble, and fragment of stone has been carefully picked. Along one wall there is a rack of antique Chi-nese weapons, straight swords, curved swords, lances, halberds, quarter-staves, clubs linked together like flails and many other weapons for which we have• no name. At the south end of the court there is a number of large stone dumb-bells, piles of granite paving stones and little heaps of bricks and tiles which serve an astonishing purpose at the end of the show.

The audience sits under a pavilion at


the north end of the court and after tea and cigarettes have been served, a group of students from the training school which is now supplying instructors in physica culture to the schools in the army of many provinces, file in through a gate in the south end of the court and do their callisthenics.

We Occidentals have gone pretty thor-oughly into callisthenics, but the Chi-nese have contrived to devise a system of movements which has little in com-mon with anything one sees in West-ern gymnasiums. It seems designed to develop suppleness and double-jointed-ness rather than muscular strength. This is very hard to describe but if one can imagine a system of drill for a class of would-be contortionists, he will have some understanding of the peculiarities of this system. In a remote city in Shensi, the writer once saw a soldier with his foot upon the parapet of the city wall, apparently making a violent effort to make his knee joint bend the wrong way. He explained that he was preparing his leg muscles against pos-sible strain and this seems to be the ba-sis of Chinese callisthenics. The mus-cles are twisted and the joints are strained by every movement and the re-sult is that the• boys seem remarkably lithe and tough, rather than much de-veloped.

Following the callisthenics comes a sword drill with straight swords, and following this there is a drill in the use of a quarter staff about six feet long. At this pgint in the performance, Gen-eral Ma will explain to his friends and guests, that in this drill he has devised something which will rejuvenate Chi-na and give every man, woman and child not only a good physique, but also self-reliance. He points out that the Chi-nese people are poor and that they can-not all possess firearms and be skilled in their use, but that a man with a good

sized club who knows how to use it, can take care of himself almost anywhere and that its constant use will give him an excellent physique. As he says, al-most anyone, no matter how poor, can procure a club, and his training in the use of a club will give a man strength and self-confidence ; that if every one in China could be persuaded to go through this simple training, the people would be much more vigorous and ag-gressive, mentally as well as physically.

The 'quarter-staff drill is a little more strenuous than the callisthenics. It is followed by exhibitions of boxing in which kicking also plays a part, and which, while it is apparently staged simply as an exhibition of agility and muscular control, involves some pretty hard slapping and kicking. The men drive about the courtyard, landing upon the hard ground in all possible attitudes, roll over lightly, and bound to their. feet. It does not seem to do the least harm to one of these acrobats to slide a few yards along the hard earth on his face, and a vigorous kick in the jaw simply ,starts one of the boxers on a series of back somersaults which he con-cludes with a bow and a smile.

After this comes the wrestling which is fast and furious and which is very evidently no child's play. General Ma shows the keenest interest in this and impresses his friends with the fact that it is much more completely developed than the "small part" which the Japanese have borrowed. To the foreigner it would certainly seem the most business-like and most useful part of the whole performance.

The men strip to the waist and put on short, closely quilted canvas jackets which are belted with long sashes. The play is too fast and furious for a spec-tator to understand the rules clearly. It would seem that all grips are taken upon the canvas jacket, tripping is apparent-

454 THE MID-PACIFIC

ly permissible and while the spectators sometime protest against leg-holds, some of the wrestlers resort to this. A man is thrown when he loses his bal-ance and immediately releases his hold upon his adversary. In most cases, how-ever, he does not go down gently and some of the throws are so violent that the thud of the defeated one's body re-sounds throughout the courtyard.

In this phase of the drill the Japa-nese are of course intensely interested. General Ma says that thousands of Jap-anese officers and men have come at one time and another to see the per-formance, and, according to creditable witnesses, one or two of the best wrest-lers have thrown every jiu-jitsu cham-pion whom the Japanese have been able to bring to Tsinan.

Highly dramatic combats with lances and swords follow the wrestling and while it is certain that the men purpose-ly miss one another in their lunges and slashes, they miss by so narrow a mar-gin that the spectator is out of his seat throughout most of the contest.

After these artists come the strong men, as highly developed as any whom we are accustomed to see in the Occi-dent. One man takes a dumb-bell weigh-ing 266 pounds, tosses it in the air, catches it on his upturned forearms, tosses it again, catches it in one hand, rests it upon his head and then twirls it about his neck, shoulders and waist. An-

other lies upon his back, supports dumb-bells weighing 540 pounds on his feet and hands and upon these a pyramid of nine men is built. A number of lesser lights perform with lesser dumb-hells, then a man rushes to the front, two others toss a granite paving stone four inches thick on his back and it is cracked with a sledge-hammer.

This is the signal for a general fu-rore of tile and brick breaking among the acrobats. They break bricks in their hands, break them over their arms, over the backs of their necks, and over each other's faces. One man leans over, balances six bricks on the side of his face, while another smashes them all with a seventh. A man with half-a-doz-en tiles in each hand will clip them over his neighbor's ears and break them all. Finally in the midst of this whirl-wind of destruction, one round-headed de-votee drops on his knees, puts half a brick on top of his head upon which a huge slab of granite is balanced which is then shattered with a sledge hammer. The show is then over.

Military men who have seen the show have told the writer that there is scarce-ly any feature of it which could not be adapted to Occidental uses, and they all agree that if such a system of phy-sical training were introduced in the Chinese schools it would tremendously enhance the value of the Chinese male population as military material.

Singapore in

Story

By S. S. Beet.

THE early history of Singapore rests upon tradition, and from this it seems to be established

that "leaving • Palembang in Sumatra, some Malays settled in Singapore about 1360 A. D., under Sang Nila Utama. The latest authoritative account of this settle-ment describes the ancient kingdom of Singapore or Tamasek as a mere off-shot of the State of Palembang, which did not last for any length of time, but came to a sudden and terrible end in the year of the great Japanese invasion, 1377 A. D. The legends connected with the fall of the City of Singapore on this oc-casion suggest that it was effected with terrible bloodshed."

The name itself has inspired many and often fantastic attempts at explanation by philologists, Malay and European. Nothing seems 'better than the obvious interpretation that Singapura is two San-skrit words, that Singha is Sanskrit for "lion" and Pura for "city," that the word means City of the Lion, and that the name was magniloquently given to it to bring it good luck by Sanskrit-using set-

tlers from the Hindu-Malayan Empire of Java, and its dependency, Sumatra. It is believed that its more ancient name was Tamasek, but that it is now utterly lost.

However great be the ancient renown of the City of Singapore in local tradi-tion, it was so little accounted of in later times that in 1703 the Raja of Johore offered it to a Captain Hamilton, who declined the present, though he remarked that it was "a proper place to settle a colony in, lying in the center of trade and accommodated with good rivers and a safe harbor, so conveniently situated that all winds serve shipping both to go out and come into these rivers." This description of Singapore has never been bettered, and it agrees with the remark of an earlier Portuguese writer that to Singapore "resorted all the navigators of the western seas of India and of the eastern of Siam, China, Campa and Cambodia, as well as of thousands of islands to the eastward."

So long as the Dutch held Malacca, which they did until 1795, there was no

455 .

456 THE MID-PACIFIC

object for them in founding another great city on the Peninsula, though the anchorages at Singapore were much su-perior to those at Malacca, and the size of ships was growing. But in 1818, threatened by the British with a loss of their monopoly in the Peninsula, they occupied a post in Rhio, one of the islands visible from Singapore to the south.

At that time the British were already in Penang, so the position was that Pe-nang was British, Malacca Dutch, and Rhio Dutch. Clearly it was expedient for Britain to cut in between Rhio and Ma-lacca.

On the nineteenth of August, 1818, therefore, Major Farquhar, subordinate of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, made a treaty providing for mutual liberty of navigation and commerce in the ports and dominions of Johore, Pahang, Linggi and Rhio and other places subject to the Sultan of Johore, this including Singa-pore.

Sir Stamford Raffles was at that time Lieutenant-Governor of Bencoolen (Su-matra). From there he wrote to the Hon. East India Company in Bengal, urging the acquisition not of Singapore, but of Bentan (Bintang), and island op-posite. He spoke of a simple commer-cial station with a military guard to force free trade under the British flag. He followed the letter in person and re-turned as agent to the Most Noble, the Governor-General with the States of Rhio, Lingin and Johores to occupy some central station, signed with Johore plenipotentiaries the necessary treaty ceding Singapore and hoisted the Brit-ish flag "on the site of the ancient mar-itime capital of the Malays."

"It is a child of my own," he wrote, and "bids fair to be one of the most important (colonies) and at the same time, one of the least expensive and trou-blesome which we possess. Our ob-

ject is not territory, but trade: a great commercial emporium and a fulcrum whence we may extend our influence, politically, as circumstances may here-after require. One free port in these seas must eventually destroy the spell of Dutch monopoly."

Meanwhile, the spell of His Nether-lands Majesty's 'armaments at Batavia had rattled the resolution of the Su-preme Government in Calcutta, which sent after Raffles a letter of counter-mand. This he received after founding Singapore. Penang sent him no assist-ance, and only in 1822 did Great Britain recognize Singapore, for not until that date did its Government realize that the "long, long thoughts" of Raffles were destined to work out the commercial sal-vation of England in these seas.

The subsequent history of Singapore is that of a growing commercial free port, but up to the invention of steam the trade was much harassed by Malay piratical phahus which infested the Sing-apore Straits, the islands, the coast of the Peninsula and the adjacent sea.

Steamers entered Singapore from the west pass between the west end of Blakang Mati Island on the right and Fort Pasir Panjang, on the. Island. of Singapore, on the left. Blakang Mati, which is a very hilly island, extends from the harbor limit on the west at the foot of Fort Pasir Panjang to Mount Palmar on the east, a distance of nearly two miles, and forms a natural break-water to the wharves on the Singapore side. The waters enclosed between the islands of Blakang Mati and Singapore, formerly known as New Harbor, are now called Keppel Harbor, after Admiral Keppel, who discovered this deep water

- anchorage. Blakang Mati is strongly fortified and

"possesses a considerable garrison whose large and commodious barracks now form an outstanding feature of the


island. Close to Blakang Mati, still on the right hand side of the channel, there lies the island of Pulau Brani, which is the headquarters of the Royal Engi-neers. On this island are the famous tin-smelting works, belonging to the Straits Trading Company, the tall chim-neys of which form conspicuous land-marks.

There are many picturesque drives, either for motors or carriages, in Singa-pore. To the reservoirs at Thompson Road is one. Another is out to the Gap, two hours return by motor, or along Tanjong Katong and the East Coast Road along the sea to Bedoh, returning by the Changi Road. This is a two-hour motor run.

The drive to the reservoirs is the shortest of these for a carriage, say two hours, and as it is not necessary to re-turn the same way, a great deal of the prettier portions of Singapore are vis-ited. The race course and golf course are passed. Then the white pillars of the fine residence of an Arab notable, and finally, by way of Mount Pleasant, the tourist arrives at the reservoir, a very beautiful sheet of water broken by promontories, and surrounded with Woods.

The Chinese Temple on Balestier road should be visited. It compares favor-

ably with any of the temples to be seen in China itself. On feature of the temple is the series of panels on the walls showing the different kinds of tor-ture in use in China.

The new reservoir, about a mile and a half from the first, is also well worth a visit. This road runs fourteen miles to Kranji, which, before the railway, was the place of embarkation for Johore Bahru, the chief town of Johore. Turn-ing to the left at the rubber plantation, where are some of the oldest trees in the Peninsula, and after passing the Economic Gardens, is the entrance to the Botanical Gardens, that precious posses-sion of Singapore. Here are all the palms of the world and the stately glory of them, and in the lake apparently all the tropical lilies there are. In the eve-ning the center of the gardens is crowded with carriages and motors, which have brought the English chil-dren to play in these lovely grounds.

Singapore has just celebrated its hun-dredth anniversary under British Rule. Its people are looking forward to a great expansion of its shipping and commerce. As the principal port and market of the Straits Settlements and the Federated Malay States and as a trans-shipping point for the island of the East Indies, Singapore is well situated to realize these hopes.

The Trail and Mountain Club of Hawaii has cut trails to some of the highest peaks. Here we have one of the many mountains giving more than three thousand feet climb to the club members.

458 THE MID-PACIFIC

Mountain Tramping in Hawaii By L. A. THURSTON.

(The following remarks are from an address at the weekly luncheon of the Trail and Mountain Club, Honolulu. Mr. Thurston has been climbing the moun-tains of the Hawaiian Islands for more than half a century.)

4 4 want to talk to you about some of I the spots I think you ought to see on this island which are within

easy reach and which I do not believe any one of you has ever been to, because although I have been skirmishing around here for several years I had never seen or even heard of them until some time ago.

"First, I want to tell you of a meeting I attended on the mainland. I was asked by Mr. Stephen Mather, who is the chief of the National Park System, to go to the convention of National Park Super-intendents and Concessionists at Denver last November. I spent a week there,

as interesting a week as I have ever spent anywhere. The superintendents of National Parks now are almost without exception in the work through enthusi-asm and love for it rather than for the money. In fact, several have incomes several times as large as their salaries. I met an enthusiastic body of men, about fifty, full of their subject and worthy followers of Mr. Mather, who is one of the most energetic and public-spirited men I have ever come across anywhere, either here or across the water.

"These men were filled with the idea of getting people into the parks. One feature Mr. Mather had experimented with last summer and is going ahead with on a larger scale this year is an in-terpark tour. They begin at the Rocky Mountain National Park, seventy miles north of Denver. Applications are sent in beforehand so as to know how many

459

460 THE MID-PACIFIC

to accommodate. Large seven-seat auto-mobiles are used. From the Rocky Moun-tain National Park they go up through Wyoming to the great Yellowstone Park, from there on across to Glacier vlountain Park, which is up in Montana ; then on out to Washington to Rainier National Park, and down to California to Crater Lake, and up to Yosemite and other parks adjacent to it. There is one now named Roosevelt Park. From there they go down to the Grand Canyon of the Colorado and the numerous parks and monuments which have been laid out in Arizona, consisting of cliff dwell-ers' reservations, Indian reservations, petrified forests, etc. The trip takes about six weeks. Applications, of course, are put in beforehand, seats are reserved, hotel accommodations are reserved, so that all a person has to do is to put up his money and be taken care of, really a personally conducted trip. It was an im-mense success last year and all the su-perintendents of parks made prepara-tions for it this year with immense en-thusiasm, indicating that a very much larger expedition would probably take place this year.

"I believe that method of procedure can be put into operation just as well here in Hawaii, and a great deal simpler, for the tourists and for our own resi-dents. We should be able to buy a ticket that Would take us to the several points of interest on this island worth seeing in one to three days, then go to Molokai. There is magnificent scenery over there, different from anything else on the is-lands. There are precipices perhaps two or three thousand feet high with water rushing over the edge of them and down into the blue ocean. There is a little is-land off to the windward with palm trees on it growing at right angles such as do not exist anywhere else in the world ex-cept on that particular spot. You have to coast around there in a sampan. And

all this is within seven hours' sailing from Honolulu.

"You can land there in villages which have no houses except grass huts and where the steep trails are almost im-passable ; not quite impassable, either, because Alexander Hume Ford once slid down one side and up the other. And all this within less than a day's sailing from here.

"Then there is the Ditch Trail on Maui which Jack London said he con-sidered the most remarkable piece of scenery in these islands or anywhere else. Every mother's son and daughter of the Trail and Mountain Club ought to go there at least once a year.

"On the round trip the steamer would go to Kahului, let you off to go through the Ditch Trail and meet the steamer the next day at Hana and come back. Then you can get on the steamer and go to Hawaii and put in a month there or any length of time available.

"I believe anybody with energy and gumption would support such a plan. Probably at present there isn't money enough in it to warrant a private or-ganization doing the work, but I think what should be done is to do what the government did when we had no hotels on the islands. There was a time when there was just one place in Hono-lulu where one could get lodging, and that was the Sailors' Home, an institu-tion which did not accommodate more than twenty-five or thirty persons. When that was full, the rest slept on the side-walk or in private homes. At that time the Legislature appropriated $120,000 and the Hawaiian Hotel, now the Army and Navy Y. M. C. A., was built and rented to Allen Herbert, a member of this organization. He ran that hotel for a number of years and it was finally leased to several different people and then found unnecessary, as there had been a number of other hotels erected.

THE MID-PACIFIC 461

"I can remember the time when there was no steamer running between here and Hilo. We had to take a schooner which took two weeks from here to Hilo. The government bought a steamer, put it on the run for a number of years, and every Legislature voted on item to pay for loss on that steamer. Finally it paid for itself and was sold to S. G. Wilder, who organized the Wilder Steamship Co., which later merged into the Inter-Island Navigation Co.

"I believe, right here and now we should do something of that kind, either the county or territorial government, with organizations such as the Trail and Mountain Club chipping in. A committee should be formed to start this round trip of the island for tourists and residents. Lots of us would like to go, but we do aot know the ropes and cannot afford to go singly, whereas an organization can cut down expenses.

"Now I want to speak of two or three places on this island which you probably have never seen. If you go up to the Pali you will see an old crater straight out seven miles from the Pali. You can drive up to the crater to within a ten minutes' walk. There is an easy horse-back trail right into the crater and out the far side. I went there seven years ago for the first time simply on an 'ex-ploring expedition, not knowing what there was to see. We came to a wall of 250 feet which went down on the other side into the blue water of the ocean with no shoal water or reef at the bottom. The base of the wall is solid rock straight up and down, so that waves break up against it forty feet high, and in the rocks all around are the nest-ing seagulls. One pair sat five or six feet from us, utterly oblivious of our pres-ence, billing and cooing. Finally I let a yell and at least 200 birds flew out in all directions. And what is more interest-ing, directly across the water, not more than a quarter of a mile, are two rocky

islands named Bird Islands, precipitous on all sides save one place where there is a landing. The tops, perhaps 15o feet high, are one mass of nesting birds. There must be several thousand seagulls. You can see them with the naked eye, and with a glass you can see the expres-sions of their faces. It is the most inti-mate bird life to be seen any where around this country. If you go out there in a boat and call from a distance of sev-eral hundred yards, the sky is simply black with birds. If we could get into an automobile now we could all see those birds and get back here before dark. They are within easy- reach, on the east side of this crater on Makapu Point.

"Another place which I think is the most beautiful tramp on this island, and there are only six ridges which I have not climbed over, is the Hauula Trail. You can zigzag up there on a graded trail to an elevation of 2000 feet. It is such easy walking that we went up there once, my wife and the children, who were 6 or 7 years old, had lunch and came back to the hotel by 3 o",cloCk in the after-noon. You can go through a cleft in the side of the valley and come to a big stream of water, the only one at that ele-vation on this island. It makes a good camping ground. There is so much water around that you find yourself right in the midst of the most tropical vege-tation. Jim Castle had the trail cut up there in connection with the water sur-vey. He had a building with a roof put up there which would accommodate a dozen people. Whether it is there now or not I do not kno'w.

Some years ago we made an appropri-ation of $100 and spent $60 clearing out two places where the falls came over the path. I recommend to you most heartily that you have somebody look into that trail and make that one of your expedi-tions. If you want to camp, you won't find any more delightful place on the island."

462 THE MID-PACIFIC

The fi,sh of the Philippines rival in color and form, all others in the world. Science is studying their origin and migration that they may better serve humanity as a food supply.

Some early educational churches in the Philippines.

The Filipinos as Scientists (By a Member of the Editorial Staff of the Far Eastern Review

WHEN the American Government set itself enthusiastically to work to show the Filipino how

to improve himself and his country, neither money nor men were spared to make the lesson a telling and effective one. Scientists and others qualified to lead the native along the road of mod-ern progress were selected and des-patched to Manila, without thought of cost, to lay plans effectively to impart the requisite knowledge. What Ameri-ca had learned from experience in the development of the great spaces of her own territory, plus what scientific devel-opment the world over had taught, was lavishly applied in the Philippines. Or-ganizations were created to handle vari-ous aspects of development, and in due course departments existed for the prop-

er consideration and treatment of every question and problem embraced in the task of elevating the Filipino and equip-ping him to become prosperous, self-governing, and independent, according to modern standards and American lights and ideals.

Education along every possible line was liberally provided, the country was opened up by roads and railways, mar-kets were developed, natural resources were investigated by specialists, and pro-vision was made to aid everyone engaged in exploiting those resources to under-stand the nature of their task, to improve their methods and enhance the value of their product, and in general to develop the highest possible efficiency.

No one can gainsay the fact that Amer-ican money and enterprise have done ex-

463

THE MID-PACIFIC

traordinary things to push the Filipino up the commercial, industrial, social, and political ladder. Conditions in the Philippine Islands today are not to be compared with what they were when the guns of Dewey blazed across Manila Bay and the fleet of the Spaniards went down with bubble and groan off the Cavite shore. Now he can, if he likes, bask amid every advantage and blessing that modern science can invoke, and, in Manila and big cities, at all events, he may "jazz" to his heart's content for recreation and pull chilled concoctions through straws at elaborate soda-foun-tains for refreshment.

He has learned the value and uses of good city government, of roads, and ar-tesian wells, and hygiene, and innum-erable aids to a better life—as well as the importance of a home run in base ball and a knock-out in boxing.

He can fill his head according to the best educational curricula, and cover his form with Fifth Avenue fashion in sar-torial adornment—and he has imbibed to the full each and all of the sublime de-lights of joy riding in, motor cars on rosy evenings over tarred highways tra-versing seducive tropical scenery.

He is today the possessor of opportu-nities such as he never dreamed of in the old Spanish times, and he is on the eve of securing political emancipation which he has long cherished but which he certainly would never have attained in so short a time if it had not been for American enthusiasm and idealism and altruism.

The question is, What will the Filipino do with the powers which self-govern-ment will place in his hands?

On every hand there is striking evi-dence of the practical work that has been done. In the varied improvements to be seen in the Islands America has erected herself a monument and has provided the Filipinos with substantial proof of gen-erous guardianship as well as durable foundations upon which to develop na-tional greatness and economic prosperity.

Reflection is prompted by the fear that is voiced in the Philippines by foreigners that opportunity for expanding trade and commerce will be reduced to a min-imum; by the evidence that is provided in the case of the Bureau of Science, where the pruning knife is already being applied and the efficiency of that bureau is being threatened. This is a specific case which is worthy of particular men-tion, because the Bureau of Science is probably the most important organiza-tion set up in the Philippine Islands. It has unquestionably done more for the Philippines than any other Department, not only in the way of investigating and making known the natural resources of the islands and inspiring their exploita-tion systematically and scientifically, but in making known the value of Philippine products to the outside world. If any Department in the Islands should be kept at its highest pitch it is the Bureau of Science, yet its usefulness is being di-minished at a time when no effort should be spared to extend its operations.

In the possession of such a Bureau the Philippines almost stand alone, for there work which other Governments have done by different departments is cen-tralised. Nor can the Philippines do without the services of the Bureau if they are to develop as they should along san-itary, industrial and economic lines. While, monumental work has been achieved in overcoming some tropical dis-eases there are still many which should be thoroughly investigated with the ob-

. ject of discovering remedies. Industries abound which could be developed from their primitive stages, and there are abun-dant sources of wealth to be opened up and scientifically examined. An enormous amount of bacteriological work in the shape of examinations of waters and foods, routine microscopical examinations of blood, etc., is continually being done. The microscopical work is per-formed for the purpose of the early identification of infectious diseases,

THE MID-PACIFIC 465

466 THE MID-PACIFIC

such as cholera, bubonic plague, typhoid fever, leprosy, tuberculosis, malaria, worms, genito-urinary diseases, etc. The entire islands are dependent upon the se-rum laboratory of the Bureau of Science for the supply of serum and of vaccine virus. Enough vaccine virus is produced annually to vaccinate two million people against smallpox. A large amount of other work is done on dysenteries, the activity of drugs and chemicals as a ba-sis for the treatment of various diseases, sanitary surveys, investigation for pa-tho-genic organisms and insects con-cerned in the transmission of diseases. The scientists have solved the problems of a large number of tropical diseases with regard to the causes, prevention and treatment that have baffled special-ists all over the world for many years. All this work is ultimately to assist health conditions in the Philippine Islands, while the biological work has been a large factor in successfully combating epidemic and other diseases in the Is-lands.

The study of medicinal and agricul-tural plants involves general work on all phases of Philippine botany. Philip-pine forests contain many species of plants that produce fibres, timbers, gums, resins, dyes, etc., of economic value. The botanical names of these and detailed in-formation as to their soil and moisture requirements, rates of growth, distribu-tion, etc., are needed in order that the greatest use can be made of them. The task of assembling material to represent practically a complete flora of the archi-pelago is an enormous one, and the need of continued exploration is urgent. The study of fungi is an extremely impor-tant branch of Philippine botany, while economic work in entomology involves the control of flies, mosquitoes, and other insects that are known to be carriers of disease and of the many species of in-sects injurious to forests, fruit trees, ag-

ricultural crops, etc. The silk worm has been introduced into the Islands by she Bureau of Science, which supplies eggs and instructions to those who wish to produce silk. The Bureau has done all that the limited personnel would permit to stimulate the economic fisheries in-dustries. Deep sea fishing has been de-veloped by improving methods of cap-ture and marketing and means for dry-ing, salting and canning surplus stock.

In the inorganic laboratories innum-erable tests are made annually of ce-ment, reinforcing iron, steel, rope, wire, tires, road material, cement pipes, con-crete, mortar, building blocks, bricks, piles, tiles, stones, cloth, and other simi: lar materials. Analyses are made of clays, rocks, minerals, soils, fertilizers, iron and steel, paints, pigments, metals and alloys, mixed paints, electric batter-ies, crude 'chemicals, etc., for the various branches of the government, provinces, municipalities, and the United States Army, for private parties, and for gen-eral purposes. The assaying of ores is also carried on. The standardization of weights and measures is a regular duty of the Bureau. The organic chemists have carried on a large amount of re-search work on beri-beri and its preven-tion and cure; and on the composition and characteristics of Philippine fruits, copra production, papaya gum, perfumes and essential oils from native plants, etc. Chemical analyses of paper, textiles, oils, soaps, etc., are. performed. The Bu-reau's sugar laboratory at Iloilo is en-gaged in umpire polarisations of sugar and in the instruction of planters as to the best methods of cutting cane, sugar boiling, operating mills, etc.

The larger part of the time of the ge-ologists of the Bureau has been devoted to engineering geology, economic geol-ogy of metallic and non-metallic min-erals, geologic reconnaissance and topog-raphy, and geology mapping. The geol-

THE MID-PACIFIC 467

ogy, field relations, and economic aspects of coal, asbestos, gold, sulphur, petrole-um, artesian water, road metal, iron ore, building stone, soils, raw minerals for clay products, Portland and natural ce-ment, and lime have been studied.

The Bureau has determined the prop-erties and some of the uses of oils pro-duced from lumbang, kapok, cashew, cas-tor bean, tree-cotton seed, physic nut, pili, calumpang, and Cato. It has shown conclusively that papaya gum made in the Philippines is equal, if not superior, both regarding color and activity, to any now in the world's market. The suit-ability of waste from abaca, or Ma-nila hemp, cogon grass, and various oth-er substances, including bamboo, for pa-per pulp has also been demonstrated.

In general the Bureau endeavors to be of the greatest assistance to manufactur-ers, producers, miners, planters and pub-lic health workers by making reports and giving expert advice on crops, soils, fer-tilizers, plant diseases, insect pests, min-ing, etc., and in performing analyses and examinations of sugar, soils, fertilizers, waters, coal, metals and alloys, gums, re-sins, minerals, cement, -food products, bi-ological and pathological specimens for practitioners and for the various branches of the government, of other materials of agricultural, industrial, and medical use and interest.

The work of the Bureau has not stopped with the examinations mentioned above. It has published extremely val-uable bulletins on all subjects, those on the scope of the commercial utilization of Philippine economic products being es-pecially important, and invaluable to in-vestors in the Philippines and to others directly or indirectly interested in the Islands.

This glance at the scope and impor-tance of the work undertaken and ac-complished by the Bureau .should be suf-ficient to convince anyone interested in

such a great field of endeavor as the Philippines of the vital necessity of maintaining the Bureau at fullest efficiency. A visit to the Bureau itself impresses one more strongly than ever just how great its relationship is to proper Philippine development. While the 1918 report of the Director mentions regretfully the shortage of efficient technical personnel, the fact remains that the different departments of the Bureau have so far been kept up in a highly creditable manner. That this is due in large manner to the personal enthusiasm of the Director, Dr. Alvin J. Cox, who, in the report, notifies his retirement from the services, goes almost without saying, In Dr. Cox the Philippines Government had a scientist whose heart was in his work, whose mind was constantly absorbed in the economic and sanitary problems of the Islands, whose energies were devoted to the ad-vancement of the Philippines with a sin-gleness of purpose which was remarka-ble. To him, more than to anyone else, the success of the Bureau during recent years is attributable, and why the Gov-ernment would even contemplate allow-ing such a man to leave its service is be-yond understanding. So great has the work been which Dr. Cox has done in making the products of the Philippines known to the world, so exhaustive have his scientific researches been, so valuable and popular his publications, that his mere continued presence in the Islands, even if he never again worked in his lab-oratory, would be of immense value to the Government in the introduction of capital for economic development. Dr. Cox went to the Philippines in 1906 and became Director of the Bureau in 1914, after serving as Acting Director from 1912, and if the Filipinos have any sense they will not now allow him to retire. He is worth too much to them as an asset. But if he is permitted to go back to his own country, for which no doubt he

468 THE MID-PACIFIC

thirsts, then his recommendations con-cerning the Bureau should be carried out in their entirety. In his 1918 report he concludes as follows :—

"The Bureau of Science is an efficient working organization and should be maintained so. To do this the Bureau must have efficient technical personnel; and, in order to retain that which it now has, and to secure additional men, recognition must be given in the higher posi-tions. The Bureau of Science needs additional specialists in all its branches, es-pecially in geology and industrial chem-istry, to care for the rapidly developing mineral and economic industries. With-out the employment of these there is grave danger that the development by the Government of such industries in the Philippine Islands will be discredited if not an entire failure. Much important constructive work in the Bureau of Sci-ence that should have been done has re-mained undone for lack of personnel, and there is the keenest need for extend-ing economic research in every line.

"With regard to the specific needs of the Bureau of Science, many of those I have pointed out in former reports have not yet been realized, but the necessity is as keen as ever. I desire especially to call attention to my former requests for funds for a commercial marine and fresh-water products (fisheries) laboratory, survey, and hatchery ; the appointment of

an entomologist to carry on work in-volving the co-operation betWeen bacte-riologists, marine biologists, and others ; the technical education of Filipinos in the United States ; the utilization of powder-ed coal for fuel ; the extension of the work of the Iloilo sugar laboratory ; ad-ditional chemists and pharmacists for the investigation of promising medicinal and poisonous plants that have not as yet been investigated ; a field survey of Phil-ippine water supplies ; a soil survey ; en-largement of the plant for the prepara-tion of extract of tikitiki for the treat-ment of infantile beri-beri ; investigation of the subject of animal diseases and in-sects injurious to agricultural products ; the provision of demonstrators for prop-aganda work, etc. There is a wealth in the Philippine Islands that remains un-touched due primarily to inadequate in-vestigation. Unless work along the. lines indicated is done much valuable work al-ready completed by the Bureau will be-come ineffective. Successful economic development of the Philippines must be preceded by adequate research, and eco-nomic independence must 'precede suc-cessful political independence."

Here, then, is a direct chance for the Filipinos to give evidence of their ulti - mate intentions after self-government is vouch-safed them. Already they are in the position to enhance the importance of the Bureau of Science or cripple it.

Guides to the Volcano on Tanna Island.

The Great Volcano on Tanna By Emma H. Adams.

THE distinguishing feature of the New Hebrides group is its grand volcanoes. Captain Cook discov-

ered the island of Tanna in 1777. He found the volcano of Yasur—the native name—in a state of remarkable activity. He described it as "giving out a great light and throwing up large stones at regular intervals of five or six minutes, with a noise that could be heard forty miles away." From the visit of the fa-mous navigator to this day the huge furnace has kept up its fires. It has its seasons of comparative quiet, and its times of great violence, the latter oc-curring during heavy rains. The wa-ter then pours into its glowing heart, where it is rapidly converted into steam,

and adds immensely to its explosive power, shaking Tanna mightily.

According to the native faith, a mighty demon, steadfastly hostile to mankind, inhabits the red-hot cavern, and utters the appalling roars which come from the crater. Someone affirms that when the mountain is in a state of repose for some time, earthquake shocks occur in New Caledonia, a large island under French domination, lying some three hundred miles southwest of Tan-na. Since earthquakes are much more destructive than eruptions from the vol-cano, the Tannese are very glad to wit-ness its discharges of steam and hot stones.

Like all volcanoes, Yasur is variable

469

470 THE MID- PACIFIC

in its action. A glance at its summit, now, discovers a mere haze of steam arising. An hour hence a dense cloud of smoke may be climbing toward the sky. Before night a thick black stream of dark dust will flow to sea with the wind. At midnight explosion may suc-ceed explosion, attended by a magnificent display of fire-works, hot lava, and fiery stones, mounting high into the air, only to drop again into the agitated interior. It is said that the explosions appear to be most violent at high tide. This has led to the surmise that through crevices in the mountain and in caves along the shore the sea water finds its way to the crater, is quickly converted into steam, and produces a great com-motion.

Indeed, Yasur is believed to extend under-ground to the sea, since hot springs exist along the shore for a long distance, and from them to the crater lines of hot steam and smoke, freighted with sulphur, escape through fissures in the scorched ground. Large deposits of this mineral are carried to the leeward of these vents by the wind. In time the overflows of lava from Yasur become extremely fertile. Yams raised upon them are the finest in the Pacific. This accounts in part for the multitude of yam gardens in its neighborhood. The people are tempted to plant where the largest harvest can be reaped. It is a rash step, however, for which Yasur does not always punish lightly. The heavy showers of hot dust from its top often ruin the crops for miles around. It matters not with what care they have been cultivated, or how great is the promise of income, suddenly there is just the right change of wind, and the parching breath of Yasur kills them. Thus the result of months of labor is destroyed. The next year the planters will live on cocoanuts. The Tannese

have -a strong fear of the demon who dwells in the crater of Yasur.

Formerly there was some trade in the sulphur emitted by the volcano, which sold at about four dollars per ton. But the earthquake of 1878 destroyed the road leading to the mountain, ren-dering transportation of the mineral very difficult. The traffic was therefore abandoned.

Our guide, Harry, walked behind. We skirted the bright bay for some time. On the east side were the boiling springs under the rocks upheaved by the great earthquake. At high tide these were covered, but at low water they bubbled up vigorously. The water was hot enough to burn my hands, to boil yams, or to scald pigs. When the tide simply covered them, the temperature was de-lightful. That was the time for the maids and matrons to assemble there to bathe and to chatter.

At the extreme end of the bay we crossed a broad stretch of sandy beach, which in Captain Cook's day formed the bottom of the harbor and held his an-chor. The earthquake had converted it into a series of eligible water frontages, but with no guaranteed lease from Ya-sur. Once it was but a pleasant walk to the summit, which is scarcely seven hundred feet high. But now the road is the worst imaginable, even had we not prolonged the agony by losing our way. For two hours we mounted up through the thicket, along a path just wide enough for one person. The air was very hot and close. Once only after leaving the beach did we obtain a view of the sea, or inhale a breath of salt air.

The soil was light and yielding, and made our progress the more fatiguing. We passed many garden patches, but never caught a view of the natives. Where were the villages at which we had been promised escorts? Where were the green cocoanuts which were to•


quench my thirst? I verily believe Har-ry, our leprous guide, led us by out-of- the-way paths, that he himself might have all the reward. Suddenly he stopped and confessed he had lost the way. A little rough language brought out the fact that he had never before been over the road. I wondered what would be his market value in pigs, should I take his life.

On he went, making a long detour, when, from a cleared space—all sulphur and steam—we discovered a few houses on the cliff above. We climbed thither by steps cut in the rocks, and I be-gan to understand why the natives lived in homes so difficult of access. They could be easily defended in attacks by other tribes. They were the habitations of the bushmen, and, if possible, were more wretched than the dwellings of the salt-water tribes. In the three villages we passed there was not a soul at home, so we could fully inspect them. Harry explained the conundrum by saying it was the time of yam planting, and that all the men who were not fighting in the war then in progress, were with the women and children at the gardens nearer the salt water.

Just where we were nothing seemed to grow to maturity. In view of that Harry volunteered: "Bad fellow, Ya-sur. Make him no good yam, no good nut." A few tall, weedy cocoanuts stood near, but when my rifle brought a green nut to the ground, it smashed utterly, being very soft. We were suffering from thirst. At last Gottfrey found a nut containing a gill of water. We shared it between us.

Having gone so far astray in our reck-oning, the hills on which we stood were higher than the volcano, and we had to be guided by its continuous roar. On we went, up and down. Hot steam rose under our feet from great fissures in the ground. In sore need of a guide,

Harry shouted until he was hoarse. At last came a faint reply.. Coming nearer now, the voice proved to be that of "a naked little native"—a youngster, who was not particularly frightened, and who at once consented to guide us to the foot of Yasur. He was nicely behaved. I could not help thinking his manners were far superior to those of some white boys 'who might have been picked up in England or in the Colonies, to escort a party of foreigners of whose language he knew not a word. Yet we call him a heathen. He was a possible cannibal.

On now, through more deserted vil-lages, the ground cracking, the steam bursting out freshly and scalding all the vegetation, we passed into a deep dell which Yasur had overlooked. High banyan trees overshadowed us. There were brilliant crotons and rare ferns in perfection. Lizards, mere streaks of shining color, darted across our path. Gorgeous butterflies circled above our heads. In a few moments it was all over. Desolation followed. All life was blighted. The bones of a dead pig bleached on a bed of sulphur. The spring of water beside the path was poisonous. All nature fought life. Noth-ing lived there but a tiny flower, as great a rarity in such a spot as the lit-tle idelweiss growing amid Alpine snows.

We had passed several old craters. The ground beneath our feet became hollow. There was yet a half mile of climbing. The measure of my dis- satisfaction was full. All in all, it was an uninteresting jaunt. On we stumbled, with the roar of Yasur, more and more threatening, ringing in our ears. Ashes fell all around us. When half-way up the cone, both natives stopped and would go no further. They would not even speak. Harry said, "No good, talk here." Both glanced furtively around as if expecting to see

472 THE MID- PACIFIC

evil spirits spring upon the slope. We left them, and .they retreated to a res-pectful distance.

At last we were on the summit of Yasur. Before us were the two craters. Hundreds of feet below seethed the mol-ten lava. Bright flames shed a frightful glare on the steam and smoke which filled the cavern. The roar was perpetual, and the explosions were like salvos of artil-lery. The ground quivered. Away to lee-ward was a pillar of smoke, a shower of ashes and small stones. I did not go to the edge of the crater and drop a stone in. The ground crumbling beneath our feet showed us our danger, if too fool-hardy. The air was fiery ; we were cov-ered with burning dust. To breathe seemed to scorch our lungs.

I tried to form some idea of the extent of Yasur, but it was impossible to see to the other side, and impossible to see to the bottom. To try to walk around it would have been highly dangerous. The force overshadowing every other was that of steam. Lumps of red-hot scoria were blown to leeward, but the greater propor-tion of rocks and stones simply fell back into the lava, which then boiled up like molten iron in a blast furnace.

If the walk to the top of Yasur was not the most inviting, the view from its summit was lovely. The scene suggests that in a far past day the volcano was separated from the mainland. A large lake in the center of the plain below con-firms the idea. In times of flood this lake

is said to overflow through openings in the volcano, and then the explosions in-crease. The water of this lake is unfit to drink, and the superstitious natives say it is the abode of great black demons, who eat men. Undoubtedly the objects seen were enormous eels, such as fre-quent the lakes of New Zealand. The lake on Tanna is certainly worth a visit. Upon re-entering the path to the village which was the home of our little guide, we dismissed him with a reward, to ap-pease his parents for his absence from the evening meal. I was very much pleased with the lad.

The homeward walk to Port Resolution will ever remain in my mind as a hideous dream. Nono put us on a track which shortened our course by a mile or two. but even that was far too long. The full moon shone after nightfall, yet the wood-ed paths were dark and gloomy. Some-times its bright beams cast weird shadows across the path we stumbled along. The volcano roared and groaned louder than ever. Harry kept close to my side, as if for protection from the evil beings he supposed to be abroad at night. Indeed, in the lonely thicket, in the strange shad-ows, in the loud explosions at the volcano, and in the glare which its flames threw athwart the sky, there was enough to im-press the native mind. At last we reached Port Resolution, and took a long draught of pure spring water, which was like nec-tar to our throats, parched by the hot dust of Yasur.

The Climate of Hawaii By LAWRENCE HITE DAINGERFIELD, Meteorologist.

THE eight main islands of the Hawaiian group lie between 154° 47' west of Greenwich, at

the easternmost point of Hawaii, and 160° 16' on the west coast of Niihau, while the latitude of 18° 56' north bounds Hawaii on the south at Ka Iae point and the most northerly part of Kauai at Pug Poa point reaches 22° 14' north latitude. These islands, conse-quently, lie due south of the Alaska Pe-ninsula and directly west of Yucatan; all lie within the tropics. Honolulu, the capitol, is 2100 miles from San Fran-cisco and 4665 miles from Panama, by great circle routes. A series of minor islands, lying to the northwest of Kauai to Ocean and Midway islands, terminate at longitude 178° 30' west and near 29° north; the Midway island postoffice is about 140o statute miles from Honolulu, but the whole Hawaiian archipelago, in-cluding the eight major islands and the

twelve or more minor islands, some of which are mere reefs or shoals, extends in the form of a crescent through about 1800 statute miles. In general, the islands consist of the remnants of exposed, lofty summits of a vast submarine range of mountains and are volcanic in origin.

The main islands, beginning at the southeast, are Hawaii, the largest, with an area of 4015 square miles, and an ex-treme altitude on Mauna Kea (White Mountain) of 13,825 feet; Kahoolawe, 69 square miles, and 1472-foot elevation at Moaulu Hill; Maui, 728 square miles, and 10,350-foot elevation at the loftiest point of Haleakala Crater ; Lanai, 139 square miles, and highest altitude of 3400 feet; Molokai, 261 square miles, and 4958--foot altitude at Komokoa ; Oahu, 598 square miles, and 4030-foot altitude at crest of Kaala, Waianae range ; Kauai, 547 square miles, and 5170-foot elevation at summit of Waia-

473

474 THE MID-PACIFIC

leale : Niihau, 97 square miles, and an ex-treme elevation of 1300 feet. The minor islands, lying to the northwest of the main group, consist of Nihoa or Bird Island, Necker Island, French Frigate and Brooks Shoals, Gardiner Island, Dowsett's and Maro Reefs. Laysan and Lisianski islands, Pearl and Hermes Reefs. Bunker, Midway and Ocean Is-lands. These minor islands abound in coral reefs and are generally of low alti-tude, although Nihoa or Bird Island rises 903 feet above the sea.

The eight principal land bodies were all inhabited when first visited by the early haole explorers, and agriculture and fishing were largely practiced. It is difficult to say when the first of the orig-inal settlers came to the islands, but many centuries no doubt elapsed between their arrival and the coming of the Pa-cific voyager. Judging by the lack of tra-dition, the volcanic craters abounding from Hawaii to Kauai were all extinct before the coming of the Hawaiians,with the exception of Hualalai, Mauna Loa (Great Mountain) and Kilauea, on Ha-waii, and possibly Haleakala (House of the Sun), on Maui. Advancing north-westward through West Maui, Lanai, Molokai, Oahu and Kauai, we• find geo-logic reasons for believing that the vol-canic fires burned out at an increasingly early date. Great gulches have been carved in the sides of the volcanic masses and long dead craters by the eroding tor-rents, producing canyons vying in color and magnitude with the best of their kind throughout the world. The finest examples of erosion are found perhaps in Waimea and Olokele canyons of Kauai, and Iao of West Maui, although other gulches, such as Honokane and Waipio, carved from the windward side of the Kohala hills of Hawaii, are little if' any less typical of the power of ero-sion. The disintegration of the volcanic piles and lava fields was the forerunner

of the tenacious tropical vegetation which came to cover the scars of nature.

Great cliffs, locally called palis, have been carved from the rain-swept, wind-ward sides of Oahu and Molokai, cutting sheer the mountain barriers from one to four thousand feet. Perhaps the best known of these palis is found at the head of Nuuanu Valley, Oahu, famed as the point from which the war-riors of the Oahu king were driven to their destruction in 1795 by the army of Kamehameha, the Great. The ocean surrounding this mountainous group of islands is known to drop rapidly to great depths, reaching an abyss of nearly four miles within 3o to 5o miles from the shore lines ; the surrounding sea bed for hundreds of miles around these abrupt depths is only moderately diversified. Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, if meas-ured from these dark valleys, lift their summits to heights of over 30,000 feet. Mauna Loa, which emits vast quantities of lava at intervals of about nine years, is said to possess by far the greatest mass of any active volcanic mountain in the world, built by her eruptive deposits through the centuries, known as either "AA," rough lava, or "pahoehoe," smooth lava. Professor T. A. Jaggar, Jr., in speaking of Mauna Loa and Kilauea, makes the following interesting statement :

"The confirmation of expectations based on a working theory of relation-ship between Mauna Loa and Kilauea, which the writer has from time to time expressed and published, is very strik-ing. The lava column is believed to be a stiff subterraneous body, squeezed up-ward by terrestial stresses through the ages, and charged with heating gases, which effervesce and react most vio-lently when the upward squeeze is re-lieved. Such effervescence generates liquid lava. The vents in Mauna Loa and Kilauea are believed to alternate in their action, 1903-07 producing Mauna


Loa flow, 1908-12 intense Kilauea ac-tivity, 1914-16 Mauna Loa flow, and now 1917-19 Kilauea overflow. Each eruption begins with the rise of the stiff lava column and culminates with release of pressure and effervescence of liquid lava."

There are many small streams throughout the islands, and a few of the larger streams are dignified by the title of rivers, notably Hanalei River in northern Kauai. All of the streams are precipitous, especially in their upper teaches, of limited length and drainage area, and, while subject to sud-den and extensive rises in consequence of the heavy mountain rains, generally carry little water and regain their low-water stages quickly after the passing of the floods. Many of the more minor streams become merely dry gulches in times of drought. Owing to the volcanic composition of the islands, the soil is of great porosity, thus admitting large quantities of water to underground stor-age, available later through springs and artesian wells, and thus used in the irri-gation of the crops. Stream flow and underground water will be found more completely considered in later pages of this report through the courtesy of the Hydrographic Branch of the U. S. Geo-logical Survey.

CLIMATIC CHARACTERISTICS.

The close relationship existing between the highly diversified and mountainous surfaces of the several islands of the sec-tion, and the resulting climate, renders the study of the Hawaiian volcanoes, both living and extinct, interesting and important. In fact, it is difficult to study the climatology of the Hawaiian group without giving some consideration to the volcanic origin of the islands. The projection of the volcanic piles far up into the prevailing trade winds is a well recognized dominant factor in the pro-

duction of precipitation over the eastern or windward slopes of the several is-lands.

The leeward slopes generally show a sudden decline in rainfall as compared with the windward, this condition being well demonstrated in the case of Mt. Waialeale, central Kauai, where the rainfall reaches an annual amount of approximately 476 inches near the summit at an altitude of 5075 feet, while at Waiawa, about 15 miles southwestward and consequently lee-ward, at an altitude of 35 feet, ha's a nor-mal annual rainfall of only 22.21 inches. An almost equally startling contrast is shown in West Maui, between Puu Ku-kui (upper) 5000 feet altitude and nor-mal annual rainfall of 370.07 inches, and Camp No. 7, about eight and one-half miles southeastward, altitude 90 feet, and 15.66 inches normal annual precipi-taion ; or between Nahiku (mauka), windward slope of Haleakala, East Maui, altitude 1600 feet, annual rainfall 300 inches, and Waiopae ranch, leeward of Haleakala, about 14 miles southwest of Nahiku (mauka), at an altitude of 700 feet, with norinal annual rainfall of 25.39 inches.

In North Kohala district, Hawaii, a striking contrast in mean annual rain-fall is found between Awini, windward of Kohala mountains, altitude 2100 feet, with 167.68 inches, and Mahukona, lee-ward about nine miles, altitude 11 feet, with 16.60 inches. The most striking contrast in rainfall extremes is found, however, in comparing the greatest an-nual amount ever recorded in the entire section, namely 562.00 inches at Puu Ku-kui (upper), west Maui (elevation 5000 feet), in 1918, with the least ever record-ed, namely, 2.46 inches, at Camp No. 7, (Hawaiian Commercial Sugar Co.),West

Maui (elevation 90 feet), in 1912, only eight and one-half miles from Puu Ku-

476 THE MID-PACIFIC

kui (upper) and almost due southeast in the Maui isthmus dry belt.

Elevation is not always a criterion of increased precipitation. This is well illus-trated in comparing Hakalau (mauka), windward of Mauna Kea, Hawaii, alti-tude 1200 feet and mean annual rainfall of 273.71 inches, and Humuula, about 25 miles distant, on the southern slope of Mauna Kea, altitude 6685 feet and an-nual rainfall of 32.28 inches. Humuula is somewhat sheltered by the projecting shoulder of Mauna Kea, however, which has some influence in cutting of the rain, as shown by comparing this station with Puu Oo, a few miles to the east-ward at an altitude of 6450 feet and a mean annual rainfall of ioi.6o inches; this latter station is truly on the wind-ward slope, however, and still has less than 4o per cent of the precipitation oc-curring at Hakalau (mauka).

Only two of the islands of the group appear to have sufficient land mass to materially alter the persistent trade wnd, namely, Hawaii and East Maui. Southwesterly winds prevail throughout the year up the west slope of Haleakala, Maui, and •over much of the North and South Kona districts of Ha-waii, embracing the westward slopes of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa and all of the volcanic mountain of Haulalai. Judging from their geographical loca-tion alone, and comparing them with like locations on Kauai, East Maui, and Oahu, the Kona districts should be the dryest of all the islands. The high moun-tains and relatively greater land area lying between the western Hawaiian coast and the rain-bearing winds sweep-ing up the slopes of the Hamakua and Hilo districts might well be expected to render the Kona districts the most arid of all throughout the islands. Fortunately the southwesterly winds bring the mois-ture from the sea up the slopes of South

Kona and the southern part of North Kona, thus favoring these districts with a moderate and highly equitable distri-bution of rainfall. The warmer months —April to October—receive the heaviest precipitation in the Kona district, while the contrary is true of the remainder of Hawaii ; this is the result, no doubt, of the stronger and more persistent sea breeze of summer.

There is a storm, which is typically and peculiarly Hawaiian, known as the "kona storm." It visits the islands during the cooler months of the year, being heralded by strong and persistent southerly winds ; most of the excessive precipitation on the leeward side of the islands is gauged during the presence of such a storm. The marked Kona storm of March 19-20, 1917, produced a 24-hour rainfall of 13.52 inches at Honolulu, a record for this station and island. This storm was general and excessive over Hawaii on the 18th-19th and Oahu and Kauai on the 19th-2oth. The heaviest known 24-hour rainfall ever recorded on the Ha-waiian islands occurred during the gen-eral Kona storm of February 18-21, 1918 ; the remarkable amount of 31.95 inches was gauged on the loth of Feb-ruary at Honomu, Hawaii, followed the next day by 11.84 inches.

The many local influences, resulting from the size, shape and trend of the individual islands, their moun-tains of widely varying elevations, nearness or relative remoteness from the sea, their canyons, plateaus, plains, their abrupt palis, rising from valleys or the sea, in conjunction with the prevailing trade wind, or, as in the case of the Kona districts of Hawaii, the dominant south-

. westerly wind, all combine to compli-cate the study of Hawaiian climatology, especially rainfall.

(TO BE CONTINUED)

Entering the Golden Gate; the Cliff House. San Francisco.

Early Recollections of San Francisco (By Raphael Weill.)

I N being asked to write down some of my recollections of the early days of San Francisco I feel somewhat

as though I were a prehistoric figure recounting tales of a prehistoric time. It is a long time ago since I first set foot here measured by the standard of the ordinary period of life allotted to man, and, yet, it seems but yesterday as I review many of the scenes and recall the faces of those who found the joy of life in this blessed city by the Pacific.

It seems but yesterday (it was in 1853) that I left Paris en route to the wonderful New World by way of

Havre. It would be impossible for me to write of the many emotions, mixed indeed, which filled me as I stepped on board the American sailing vessel "Connecticut" bound for New York. We were at sea 33 days before we arrived in port.

A brief period of time in New York, and then I set my face toward San Francisco, the ultimate goal I had promised to myself in making up my mind to leave France for America.

It was on the "George Law" that I took passage for the Isthmus. This was before the Panama railroad was built, and so we crossed the then dis-

477

478 THE MID-PACIFIC

ease-infected neck of land by rowboats down the Chagres river and later overland on mule back until we arrived in Panama.

The "Golden Gate" was the vessel I boarded for San Francisco from Pan-ama. "Golden Gate"—as a youngster that name had set me to dreaming dreams. To me it had meant the far away gateway I must reach in order that I might have the physical realiza-tion of the castles I had been building. One of my fellow passengers on that trip was William Ingraham Kip, who became the first Episcopal bishop to California. Bishop Nichols is his suc-cessor—there have been only two, not a formidable list for the student of church history to memorize. Also we had with us a group of men from Phil- adelphia. They had come from the United States mint in that city to open the San Francisco mint which dates from that time.

On our way up, the "Golden Gate" went ashore, so I experienced ship- wreck on my journey. But this is not a story of adventure, so I simply will say we were transferred to a small coastwise vessel which brought us to San Francisco.

San Francisco at that time was a comparatively lively little city of about 40,000 inhabitants. I remained only a few days in the city at that time for I went down to Los Angeles.

Puebla of Los Angeles, as it then was known by the natives, boasted a population of about 3,000 persons; the majority of whom were the natives of Mexican extraction. Here it was that I met for the first time, John Downey, who subsequently became Governor of California.

In 1855 I returned to San Francisco. From that time to this San Francisco has been my home, the place I have learned to love, where my warm and enduring friendships have been formed

with the years. It is the lovelist place in the world, for unto it has been given God's own climate.

I have watched it grow from a little ram-shackle city into the Empress of The Far West, and what it has done thus far only is the beginning of the majestic things that are to be.

San Francisco and I have grown up together, yet San Francisco ever is virile and young, and I think I have absorbed that quality from her, for I have found that it is not the years; but the way a man thinks and lives—thinking and living aright—is the nearest approach we have to the myth-ical fountain of youth sought by Ponce de Leon.

It was in 1855 that I entered the house of Davidson and Lane. It had a frontage of 20 feet on Sacramento street, and it went back forty feet from the front door. I was the only hired employee.

I have been with that firm ever since, for the White House of today is the butterfly that has emerged from the little chrysalis that I found in 1855. First Mr. Lane retired and I was taken in as a partner and the firm became known as J. W. Davidson & Co. When Mr. Davidson withdrew the name again was changed to Raphael Weill & Co. And so you see that I have been go-ing along with my hand in the warm and affectionate clasp of the hand of San Francisco. That is why I feel I am a part of San Francisco and, just so surely, is San Francisco a part of me.

San Francisco always has known how. Former President William Howard Taft merely found the epigrammatic word-ing which we required as our motto.

Always San Francisco has had the best of everything. Even in the days when gambling was wide open in the city and men and women found their chief nightly diversion in risking their

THE MID-PACIFIC 479

IN

Old an Francisco is changing. In Golden Gate Park there is a new Japanese Garden as real in beauty and daintiness as any in Japan itself.

'*e

480 THE MID-PACIFIC

money on games of chance, the best talent of the theatrical world of that day and generation was ours to see and hear. De Forrest, Booth, Keene, the minstrels Backus and Birth, Lotta, are only a few of the scores of others who came to San Francisco—a mighty long trip in those days—because they knew that San Fran-cisco knew how to appreciate and to do.

Lotta Crabtree I knew when she was playing at the Bella Union with the fa-mous Joe Murphy. The Metropolitan Theater then was the principal playhouse of the city. In those days when I went into a theater I knew practically every man and woman in it. We were a great family.

You can't get to know people as well standing up in a crowded street car hang-ing on to a strap as you can walking down to business with them in the morn-ing and returning with them in the same way after the day's work was done. That was what we did in the days of the old San Francisco, for there were no street cars, no tramways. Just one single line of omnibuses that ran when the drivers most felt like it plied between Portsmouth Square and the Mission.

We were very proud then of the only steam railroad that ran into San Fran-cisco. It started from the corner of Front and California streets and ran out to the Willows, a beautiful public garden set out in the Mission district.

Of course, we boys used to take our girls out to dinners and suppers just as is done in the present day and generation and I don't think the fellows of today "had it on us any," as we say, in the mat-ter of "knowing how." The favorite place in the old days for these dinners was a restaurant run by a Frenchman named Blaize, on the shores of Lake Merritt. I don't know but what we had

the best of the boys of the present day for the reason that there were on street cars and we had plenty of time for con-verse as we were seeing the girls home. It is a great satisfaction to me that I was a member of the Vigilantes which was organized in San Francisco to protect its citizens against the lawless which were in control in those days. To the Vigi-lantes must be given the credit for bring-ing law out of lawlessness and order out of disorder. It took San Francisco out of chaos and gave her a regular city government in which she could take a measure of pride. The Vigilantes were the precursors of good government in San Francisco and laid the foundation for at least half decenCy.

While San Francisco, on its physical side, is a new city with but few of the old landmarks of the yesteryear remaining, it has remained at heart and in spirit very much like the old San Francisco which took me so kindly to its arms nearly three score and ten years ago.

San Francisco, at any time, is the cheapest place in the world I know of in which to live. It was cheaper here in 1855. Prices have gone up tremendously since then all over the world, but San Francisco still holds its figures a little under those which obtain elsewhere.

This is because we are a great produc-ing State. We do not have to go out into the world and buy what we need. We can grow it or make it right here at home, and we can both grow and make better things than they can be grown or made anywhere else.

Unlike our brothers and sisters of oth-er States we are not obliged to put in a heavy store of coal against the hard, cold winters. By the same token, our dealings with the iceman in the summer time are negligible.

The PAN—PACIFIC UNION

BULLETIN g E

PAN-PACIFIC UNION

Issued as a part of the Mid-Pacific Magazine The Official organ of the Union

CONTENTS

New Series, No. 13, November, 1920.

PAGE

Aims and Objects of the Pan-Pacific Union 2

Pan-Pacific News 3 Secretary's Monthly Report 4 Frank A. Vanderlip Urges Conferences in Hawaii 7 Thomas W. Lamont, before Honolulu Chamber of

Commerce 9 Australia and the Pan-Pacific Union 11 The Pan-Pacific Educational Conference 12 Pan-Pacific Commercial Statistics 15 Some Korean Inventions 15 A Pan-Pacific Financial Conference 16

HONOLULU Published by the Union

1920

2 PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN.

Aims and Objects of the Pan-Pacific Union as Incorporated in Its Charter

THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION is an organization representing Governments of Pacific lands, with which are affiliated Chambers of Commerce and kindred bodies, working for the advancement of Pacific States and Communities, and a greater co-operation among and between the people of all races in Pacific lands.

The Pan-Pacific Union is incorporated with an International Board of Trustees, representing every race and nation of the Pacific.

The trustees may be added to or replaced by appointed representatives of the different countries co-operating in the Pan-Pacific Union. The following are the main objects set forth in the charter of the Pan-Pacific Union :

1. To call in conference delegates from all Pacific peoples for the pur-pose of discussing and furthering the interests common to Pacific nations.

2. To maintain in Hawaii and other Pacific lands bureaus of information and education concerning matters of interest to the people of the Pacific, and to disseminate to the world information of every kind of progress and oppor-tunity in Pacific lands, and to promote the comfort and interests of all visitors.

3. To aid and assist those in all Pacific communities to better understand each other, and to work together for the furtherance of the best interests of the land of their adoption, and, through them, to spread abroad about the Pacific the friendly spirit' of inter-racial co-operation.

4. To assist and to aid the different races in lands of the Pacific to co-operate in local fairs, to raise produce, and to create home manufactured goods.

5. To own real estate, erect buildings needed for housing exhibits ; pro-vided and maintained by the respective local committees.

6. To maintain a Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, and Art Gallery.

7. To create dioramas, gather exhibits, books and other Pan - Pacific material of educational or instructive value.

8. To promote and conduct a Pan-Pacific Exposition of the handicrafts of the Pacific peoples, of their works of art, and scenic dioramas of the most beautiful bits of Pacific lands, or illustrating great Pacific industries.

9. To establish and maintain a permanent college and "clearing house" of information (printed and otherwise) concerning the lands, commerce, peoples, and trade opportunities in countries of the Pacific, creating libraries of commer-cial knowledge, and training men in this commercial knowledge of Pacific lands.

10. To secure the co-operation and support of Federal and State govern-ments, chamberi of commerce, city governments, and of individuals.

11. To enlist for this work of publicity in behalf of Alaska, the Territory of Hawaii, and the Philippines, Federal aid and financial support, as well as similar co-operation and support from all Pacific governments.

12. To bring all nations and peoples about the Pacific Ocean into closet friendly and commercial contact and relationship.

PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN.

Pan-Pacific News

SOME twenty-five members ot Con-gress completed the trip through the Orient suggested to them ny

the Pan-Pacific Union. This is but a beginning it is hoped.

The Pan- Next year it is planned to Pacific charter a fast vessel for Cruise. a cruise around the Pa-

cific. It is planned to se-lect a certain number of legislators and commercial attaches from each Pacific land and invite them to visit and be-come acquainted with each other's countries and peoples. It is hoped that the Pan-Pacific cruise will become an annual affair.

The 28th of November, 1920, marks the four hundredth anniversary of the day when Fernando Magellan entered the Pacific ocean through the strait now named after him. He gave the Pacific ocean its name. It is but ap-propriate that Manila marks the four hundredth anniversary of Magellan with a Far Eastern Exposition, for Magel-lan's voyage around the Pacific began and ended in the Philippines, and there he died April 27, 1521.

September, 1921, has been selected by Chairman Paul Reinsch of the Pan-

Pacific Art Conference and The Pan- Art Exhibit Committee, as Pacific the time of the Art Con- Art ference in Honolulu. A Congress. site has been tendered the

Pan-Pacific Union on which to erect a building to house the art exhibits from Pacific lands and work on this it is expected will be be-gun at once. The American Federa-tion of Arts cooperating with the work

will select exhibits to take to the United States and place on tour of the larger cities, making a circuit that will consume two years. Other coun-tries of the Pacific may select or ex-change art exhibits for home instruc-tion.

Congressman L. C. Dyer was among those who made the visit to China and Japan. Mr. Dyer is interested in get-ting through his committee, that on the Judiciary, a bill that will authorize the securing of a Federal charter for cor-porations doing business in China in which Americans have an interest. There would be no income tax to be paid by the Chinese stockholders but the Americans would be taxed on their incomes. Such a law is needed if Americans are expected to compete with other countrymen in China who are pro-tected by their governments in this mattter.

One thing the Congressional party learned in the Orient was that their

Consuls are disgracefully American housed both in China and Consulates in Japan, while the Con- in the suls from every other land Orient. live and do business for

their countries in buildings of which they need not be ashamed. American Consuls in the Far East are often humiliated, occupying perhaps a shanty'as an office, and that beside the palatial consular building of some Eu-ropean country. Chairman Stephen G. Porter of the Foreign Affairs Commit-tee of the House headed the Congres-sional party. He got through a bill at

4 PAN-PACIFIC U

the last Congress that raises the fee for American passports to $10, and with this income it is proposed to erect re-spectable buildings abroad to house American Consular offices.

"Visual Instruction" by means of the motion film has been taken up actively by the public schools and other edu-catiOnal institutions of Hawaii. A cen-tral exchange is being established for collecting and distributing Pan-Pacific commercial and educational films. These will be loaned free in all Pacific lands on condition that they be shown free of charge.

A .number of press representatives

NION BULLETIN.

from Australia and New Zealand were recently entertained in Ho-

Press Men nolulu. Some of these men oof the own and conduct powerful Pacific. newspapers in Australia.

They were en route to the Imperial Press Congress in Ottawa, Canada. Soon newspaper men from Canada and the United States will be entertained in Honolulu as they stop there on their way to the world's Press Congress in Sydney. These men are welcomed in Honolulu coming and go-ing. Before long it is likely that the press men of the Pacific will be invited to meet at the Ocean's Cross Roads City arid know each other better.

Secretary's Monthly Report to the President and Directors of the Pan-Pacific Union

The Pan-Pacific Union having se-cured appropriations for the continu-ance of its work from several Pacific governments now enters a new and more serious phase of its work.

The governments of the Pacific are appropriating funds primarily to aid the Pan-Pacific Union in establishing a force of salaried workers who have had experience in calling and handling international conferences and con-gresses.

The first appropriation was made in 1919 by the Territory of Hawaii, for the purpose of maintaining a central bureau that would handle the work of Pan-Pacific Conferences called in Ha-waii. This appropriation was made available when three other Pacific gov-ernments had made appropriations • to-ward the expenses of calling the Pan-Pacific conferences.

The secretary at once took up the matter of appropriations with the gov-

ernment of New Zealand and with that of New South Wales with the result that preliminary appropriations were promptly made and the Governor of Hawaii, as president of the Pan-Pacific Union, officially notified to this ef-fect.

The secretary then visited Washing-ton, D. C., and with the president of the union and vice-president Kalania-na.ole, the Hawaiian delegate, called on Senator Lodge, chairman of the Senate Foreign Affairs Committee, and se-cured from Congress an appropriation of $9000 for the year ending June 31, 1921.

The secretary next visited Ottawa, the capital of Canada, conferred with the premier, Robert Borden, and some of his conferees concerning the partic-ipation of Canada in the calling of the Pan-Pacific Conferences. The matter of an appropriation toward this is now before the Parliament of Canada.

PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. 5

In Washington, D. C., the secretary was verbally assured by Ambassadors, Ministers or the representatives, from Japan, China and several Latin-Ameri-can countries that these would partici-pate, in the expenses of the Pan-Pacific Union in maintaining a Central Bureau for handling Pan-Pacific Conferences called to meet in Hawaii, and it was suggested that he personally visit these countries to conclude the negotiations. In behalf of the Dutch East Indies, the Holland ministry in Washington pledged its cooperation.

At the several Pan-Pacific gatherings held in Washington, D. C., called by the secretary, there were in attendance members of the Cabinet, trustees of the Union, Ambassadors, Ministers and trade commmissioners from Pacific lands as well as members of Con-gress.

At these meetings plans for a series of Pan-Pacific Conferences to be called to meet in Hawaii were discussed and the following approved :

A Pan-Pacific Scientific Congress Honolulu August 2 to 22, 1920, Dr. Herbert E. Gregory, chairman.

A Pan-Pacific Commercial Conference called by the department of commerce, at a date to be set in 1921, Hon. Franklin K. Lane chairman, to convene and conduct this conference in Ha-waii.

A Pan-Pacific Financial and a Pan-Pacific Health Conference are still un-der discussion with the Treasury De-partment. The Surgeon General of the United States Health Bureau would be and is willing to act as chairman of the health conference if called in Ha-waii. It is expected that the Rocke-feller Foundation would cooperate in the calling of this conference and the matter is now being taken up with that organization.

The matter of a Pan-Pacific Agricul-

tural Conference is being taken up with the Department of Commerce and has made some progress. This in connec-tion with a Pan-Pacific Food Conserva-tion Conference at which it is believed that Herbert Hoover would preside ; there is some correspondence with him on this subject.

The calling of a Pan-Pacific Histori-cal Conference has beeen taken up with the Carnegie Institute, and is making progress.

The American Federation of Arts Society convening in New York to cel-ebrate the fiftieth anniversary of the foundation of the Metropolitan Museum of Art passed resolutions favoring the calling in Honolulu under its auspices but through the Pan-Pacific Union, of a Pan-Pacific Art Conference and Art Exhibit, which would be annual, the exhibits gathered from every part of the Pacific being taken to the United States for a two years' tour, and the objects sold there. This is being tak-en up with the secretary and Dr. Paul Reinsch who suggested the Art Con- •gress and Exhibit, and approves the month of September, 1921, as the time of the conference.

The International Y. M. C. A. has asked for data on which it can base and hold in Hawaii a Pan-Pacific Con-ference of its secretaries stationed about the great ocean.

The American Red Cross has asked of the International Red Cross permis-sion to hold a Pan-Pacific Red Cross Congress in Hawaii.

The head of the Boy Scouts of America has authorized the calling of a Pan-Pacific Boy Scouts Conference. with James A. Wilder as chairman ; he will set the date and be present as presiding officer.

Governor Thomas Riggs, Jr., of Alaska, and Stephen B. Mather, direc-tor of the National Parks Service,


urge the calling of a PanPacific Travel and Transportation Congress in Hawaii. They would both expect to attend and should be left to set the date.

These are some of the official and semi-official Pan-Pacific Conferences scheduled to be held in Hawaii during the 1921 under the auspices of the Pan-Pacific Union—most of these will be-come annual events.

It is expected that the Pan-Pacific Union will maintain a force competent to handle these conferences and quar-ters in which they may be held. Presi-dent of the Union, the Governor of Hawaii has offered the use of the throne room in the capitol for the large conferences. It is not expected that more than 50 to 100 of the in-tellectual or commercial leaders of the Pacific will be in attendance at any one of these conferences.

The Department of Commerce is will-ing to establish a division of its com-mercial bureau in Hawaii with the Pan-Pacific Union, provided the Union brings from Washington the man they appprove to organize this work. Such a man must speak two languages used in Pacific lands, and must serve with the Department of Commerce in Wash-ington for a period of six months. It is possible to secure such a man from the Pan-American Union who has also had ten yeirs of travel in Pacific lands and in the routine of calling and hand-ling PanAmerican Conferences. It is urged that the secretary be authorized to secure such an assistant. It would be well also if an expert from Austra-lasia and one from the Orient could be induced to visit Hawaii and take part in organizing the work of the Pan-Pacific Union's Central Service Bureau and Clearing House.

It has been voted that out of the Territorial appropriation of $10,000 that $3,500 be set aside for the expenses,

traveling and otherwise of the secretary for the year ending December 31, 1920, as he should accept the invitation to visit and consult with Pacific govern-ments likely to contribute to the sup-port of the Pan-Pacific Union, and the salary of the secretary is but a dollar a year, and traveling expenses are heavy.

The secretary found everyone in Washington, from the President down through all departments and in Con-gress most helpful in furnishing • the aims of the Pan-Pacific Union. They expect its headquarters to be main-tained in Honolulu and are ready to 'give their cooperation and advice in perfecting the organization and in se-curing for it the proper working force, and in this also promised the aid and counsel of the other governments of the Pacific.

The Great Northern sailed on time for Manila and a few days out the Filipino delegate, Jaime de Veyra re-ceived the following cable from his confreres in the Filipino capital :

"On the day of party arrival on Saturday, July 4, as per your last advice a water parade of decorated launches will meet transport just out-side of breakwater, members of the party will be assigned to private res-idences and Manila hotel."

On that day in the evening at 9:30 o'clock Governor General and Mrs. Francis Burton Harrison are giving a ball at Malacanang palace.

"On the second day, Sunday, July 25, a visit will be made to the im-portant churches ; in the afternoon Phil-ippine General Hospital and Aquarium will be visited, sightseeing terminating at Constabulary on Luneta weather permittting—evening freee.

"On the third day, Monday, July 26, trip to Calamba estate and Pagsan-


jan by special' train returning to Ma-nila in the evening.

"On the fourth day, July 27, morn-ing devoted to sightseeing, noon Phil-ippine Chamber of Commerce lunch-eon, 5 to 8 o'clock p. m. tea party at Normal Hall—evening free.

"On the fifth day, Wednesday, July 28, party will leave for Baguio in the morning. Trip to Baguio according to program will cover only two days but if party will remain in the Philippines ten days as announced by the Philip-pine Department stay in Baguio will be extended by at least one day.

"On the seventh day, Friday, July

30, morning sightseeing, noon club luncheon to the gentlemen of the party by Resident Commissioner Babaldon, 4:30 o'clock visit to Bilibid prison, 9:30 o'clock reception and ball at the Marble Hall by the Philippine Legislators.

"Eighth day, Saturday, July 31, will be devoted to trip to Corregidor and Cavite, if party will stay ten days, one full day will be devoted to Corregidor and another full day to Cavite.

"Dates for Elks' club and Manila Merchants' reception not yet filled.

"We are• re-arranging program to cover ten days as per advice Philip-pine Department."

Frank A. Vanderlip Urges Pan-Pacific Conferences in Hawaii

Hawaii's unique and responsible po-sition as the center of Pan-Pacific thought and influence was strongly emphasized by Frank A. Vanderlip, former president of the National City Bank of New York, father of the War Saving Stamp idea and member of the unofficial American mission which has beeen visiting Japan, and Thomas W. Lamont, member of the firm of J. P. Morgan & Co., one of the finan-cial advisors of the peace conference and head of the American financial group which has just completed the formation of the international consor-tium in China.

Speaking before a luncheon audience, gathered under the auspices of the Chamber of Commerce of Honolulu—an audience that crowded the Commercial Club dining room far beyond its limit —both financiers urged the business men of Hawaii to take an active part in the great developments of the Orient and suggested the calling of a

conference of Japanese business men with local business men to discuss in a friendly manner, here at the half-way station, the problem of American-Japanese relations.

"We have come from Japan," said Mr. Vanderlip, "where our party went as a body of individuals on the invita-tion of a group of individuals in Japan and we have had a remarkable expe-rience there. We have been holding the frankest of conferences on subjects which have been a cause of friction between the two countries.

"We have learned that there is in Japan a body of citizens, with as high moral aims and spiritual outlook as any that can be found in the United States or elsewhere. We have found that spirit generally among the business commu-nity and we believe that public opinion in Japan reflects it.

"In our conferences we talked over the California immigration question.


The immigration question of Hawaii was not even mentioned, so it apparently does not disturb them. We talked on Shantung, Siberia and on the ca-ble situation.

"One ' of the features of our con-ference was the hopefulness of the Japanese conferees that the military power is declining and that democracy is developing. The Diet has only a limited power over the military. The emperor appoints the army and navy representatives in the cabinet irrespec- tive of the party in power. The Diet has some control through the budget.

"We ;discussed Shantung freely. There have been reprehensible things there but, generally speaking, the im-pression is that the attitude of the Japanese people favors the return of Shantung to China.

"The Asian problems present great difficulties and many sides. In the vast Siberian region east of Lake Baikal there is chaos, here and there Bolshe-vik communities, but no strong central government. China has a weak central government.

"As to Korea the Japanese admitted frankly that there had been gross mis-takes and undue harshness in the mili-tary measures. The Japanese people were themselves astonished at the rev-elations and reforms that have been carried out by imperial rescript. In ad-mitting the mistakes the Japanese were too polite to push any inquiry into the shooting and burning of ne-groes in our own country.

"To sum up, the unofficial conference was useful. It informed the Japanese public and will inform the American public. The Japanese people showed a deep interest in it. At Osaka we ad-dressed 7000 persons in a hall and had to speak to an overflow meeting out-side. The Japanese press printed a vast amount of material about the conference.

"I believe that you, here in Hawaii could make a national contribution to the situation. Suppose the Chamber of Commerce of Honolulu were to invite a group of Japanese here for the gen-eral discussion of international rela-tions, having it specifically understood that it is in no way an arbitration of questions of dispute. I have found here liberality, patience and breadth of mind. You are in a position to do just such work.

"The Japanese don't want freedom of immigration. They want courtesy of treatment, not to be classed as foreign-ers, not to be singled out for special legislation. If we go at the problems in the right way we shall have peace and friendship. If we go at it the wrong way we shall have endless trou-ble. •

"The real problem of Japan is eco-nomic. There are 57,000,000 people in the small island group and the popu-lation is increasing at the rate of 600,- 000 a year. They have long since passed the point where the group can supply food enough.

"They say, 'You have closed Amer-ica and Asia to us. What shall we do ?"

"I believe that they must develop industrially but there are big prob-lems in the way. They lack coal and iron and the market is well occupied.

"We spend millions on the army and the navy which are weapons to be used in imposing our will by might when diplomacy fails. Yet our state department is working by archaic methods. Its heads are rapidly changing. Great questions are referred to clerks in back Offices and settled there. The state de-partment today is burying valuable re-ports and suggestions.

"While the state department is be-ing developed you in Hawaii may, by conferences such as that suggested—not an arbitration of disputes—make a great contribution to the nation."

PAN-PACIFIC UNION BULLETIN. ()

Thomas W. Lamont, at the Ocean's Cross Roads

Thomas W. Lamont, member of the firm of J. P. Morgan & Co., addressed the Chamber of Commerce in Hono-lulu after his successful visit to the Orient to arrange for the convention.

He appealed to Hawaii as the half way house and said :

"The American banking group, with the cordial approval of the British and French groups, asked me to take this trip to the Far East for two purposes. The first was to visit Japan and find out definitely whether the Japanese banking group, with the approval of its government, intended to come into the consortium as a partner, on the same terms as the other bank groups. The second object was to visit China and to report back to the western groups upon conditions existing there, economic, financial and political, so that they could better determine the ques-tion as to whether China offered today a safe and attractive field for the sav-ings of the western investors.

"As to the first object of my trip, the result has already been announced. After protracted and somewhat complex negotiations the Japanese banking group declared its intention, with the entire approval of its government, to enter the consortium upon the same ba-sis as the rest of us. In bringing about this arrangement, I am happy to pay a tribute to the sagacity and courage of Roland S. Morris, our ambassador at Tokio, who occupies there a unique position of influence and strength.

It will be recalled that a year ago at Paris, when the consortium was first tentatively formed, the Japanese bank-ing group had expressed its desire to

enter into partnership as to China with the banking groups of America, Great Britain and France, but the Japanese government had qualified its entry by attempting to reserve portions of Man-churia and Mongolia from the scope of the consortium. These reservations were inadmissable to the other banking groups as being opposed to the idea of a free and full partnership. They were, as it appeared, equally inadmissable to the governments of the United States, Great Britain and France, as tending to establish a political status for Japan not consistent with the independence and integrity of China. On several points there was sincere misunderstand-ing, which was largely cleared away by our discussions at Tokio. We were able to assure our friends in Japan that the consortium had no intentions with re-spect to Manchuria and Mongolia that would serve to injure the economic se-curity or national safety of Japan. The Japanese government, on the other hand, gave assurance that it desired to set up no fresh political claims in the regions referred to with the final result, as already announced, that this and certain other obscure points having been cleared up, the reservations were withdrawn and the consortium became a fact.

"In China I spent a month in in-vestigating conditions as requested and also in explaining there the principles and purposes of the consortium, about which I found there was grave misun-derstanding. When it was once made plain to the Chinese that the consortium planned to operate only with the con-sent and cooperation of the Chinese people, that it did not intend to in-


vade the field of ordinary commercial or banking business and that it ex-pected to concern itself only with the development of those great basic en-terprises of China, such as currency re-form, the building up of transportation, etc., so as to provide a more solid basis for private initiative and effort, then, I say, the consortium was heartily wel-comed by the leading men of affairs in China.

"Despite the fact that the present Peking government is not strong in administration, I was on the whole greatly impressed with the fundament-al integrity of the Chinese people. I was impressed with the growth that there has been in the last few years in education, the study of political insti-tutions and of government. There yet remain many difficult problems to be solved. Friends of China will still suf-fer temporary disappointment, but in the long run with the untold sources of natural wealth which the people possess and with their intense indus-try, I look to see them fulfill a destiny as one of the leading nations of the earth. Through the consortium and in every other way possible. I hope that America will be able to prove afresh that her traditional friendship for China is a substantial one and that all four banking groups, American, Brit-ish, French and Japanese, will, work-ing together with the Chinese them-selves, prove a factor contributing to the future stability and insurance of peace in the Far East.

"We must remember that the forma-tion of the consortium, now that Japan has decided to come in, is but the first

step in p. long and arduous pathway. The banking groups will have to dis-play towards one another great pa-tience, great tolerance. Coalitions never function readily ; international partner-ships always prove diffcult, but the fact that we are all engaged in one enterprise and with one principle in view, namely, the welfare of China, ought to weld us together and make our operations successful. But in or-der to reach that happy end we must bespeak the cooperation of all good American citizens and most particular-ly I want to make a brief personal ap-peal to you here in Hawaii, who oc-cupy this important half way house be-tween the American continent and the shores of the Far East. You know what the Far Eastern problems are ; you have given thought to the solution of them. We need your aid ; we need your counsel. Be assured that every member bank of the American group, as well as myself personally, will greatly apppreciate any communication, oral, written or otherwise, that you may ever see fit to make us on the problems confronting the consortium. The policy of the United States govern-ment with respect to the Far East has not always been constant. If this par-ticular matter of the consortium, how-ever, since it took it up, afresh two years ago its policy has been consist-ent, energetic, courageous, and for your government itself as well as for your banking group. I again bespeak your cordial support, your thoughtful interest and the free expression of your views."


Australia and the Pan-Pacific Union In Australia there are a number of

hands around the Pacific clubs, branches of the Pan-Pacific Union, and these are given official government recognition and support. Yet Australia cries for more active work on the part of her citizens in the work of the Pan-Pacific Union.

We reprint here an editorial in the Sydney Evening Sun,, followed by a news item in the Sydney Times. CROSS-ROADS OF THE PACIFIC.

The Prince of Wales reaches Ho-nolulu today. Honolulu is distinguish-ed for its tropical scenery, its ukelele, its Waikiki Beach, and the fact that Japan believes that it ought to be Japa-nese instead of American.

It is distinguished also by a lesti-known, but far more important, fact---that it is the headquarters of the Pan-Pacific Union. It is, the American propaganda declares, "the cross-roads of the Pacific."

The Pan-Pacific Union is a fine con-ception, and upon its list of officers are to be found representatives of every people having interests in the greatest ocean of the world. The importance of the Union it at once recognized when we find that the Honorary Presidents include the names of Woodrow Wilsod, William Morris Hughes ,Sir Robert Borden, W. F. Massey, and Hsu Shill Chang, President of China. A confer-ence of the representatives of the Pa-cific lands will shortly be called in Honolulu.

There is one aspect of the Union which is worth noting—that the "Bul-letin" of the organization, containing its propaganda, is published by Ameri-cans in Honolulu. Naturally the Amer-ican view of the Pacific is not neg-lected. So little is the public of Aus-tralia informed by Australian propa-

ganda of the Union's activities that it is safe to assert that if one hun-dred citizens were asked whether they had heard of the Union, ninety-nine would say "no."

Australia has to be educated to the importance of this Union, which may easily, in a very short time, become a sort of league of nations controll-ing the destiny of all the lands washed by the Pacific waves. Of this league President Wilson has been offered the presidency, and, we are told, "the secretary of the Union, in announcing the offer, said that it constituted a league of nations of the Pacific, which offered to President Wilson the opportunity to work ac-tively among more than half the population of the world."

Insofar as such a league would lead to the amicable delimitation of national rights in the Pacific, would form a public opinion Which any na-tion would find it hard to resist, and would make for peace, Australians should give it every support. But at present the danger is that Amer- ican propaganda will give the league too American a color. Australia, Canada, China, Japan must have their interests published abroad as well.

The advertisement of Honolulu by the Union is an example of the tru- ism, "it pays to advertise." Waikiki Beach is known throughout the world. Yet it is no better than Bondi or Manly Beach. Australia's beauty places are certainly no less beautiful than Honolulu's, but the people of Aus-tralia, those people, at all events, who have the money and leisure for ttavel, have spent most of these two commodities running all over the earth to find scenery. It is time that we discovered our own.


The Prince of Wales, after seeeing the much-advertised scenery of Ha-waii, should have an opportunity, of which he would doubtless avail him-self to the full, of comparing it with unadvertised variety and beauty of our island continent. No Australian who knows his own country need have any fear of that competition.

(From the Sydney Times.) Sydney University has selected Mr. L.

A. Cotton to represent it at the first Scientific Congress of the Pan-Pacific Union, to be held at Honolulu next Au- gust.

Mr. Cotton is a distinguished Aus-tralian geologist, and is the chief as-sistant of the dean of Australian scien-tists, Professor David, whose eminent services in the Antarctic and in the war have made his name a household word in scientific circles.

The conference to which Mr. Cot-ton will go as the representative of the

chief of the Australian University is the first of a series. The Pan-Pacific Union is an international body dedicated to the advancement of the Pacific states and communities. It desires to assist those in all Pacific communities better to understand each other, and to work together for the furtherance of the interests of the land of their adoption, and through them, to spread about the Pacific, the friendly spirit of inter-racial cooperation. The union pro-poses to follow the Scientific Con-ference with others, which will be called in 1921, on commercial, finan-cial, and social matters.

Mr. Cotton will probably be ac-companied to Honolulu by other Aus-tralian scientists, the conveners of the conference being particularly anxious that such men as Prof. David, Mr. Charles Hedley, Mr. E. C. Andrews and others should take part in the deliberations.

The Pan-Pacific Educational Conference Honolulu, 1 92 1

The decision as to just what season of the year is best suited for holding the Pan-Pacific Educational Confer-ence in Honolulu at the ocean's cross-roads will be left to the decision of Dr. P. P. Claxton, United States Com-missioner of Education. He will act as chairman of this conference and after conferring with his colleagues and the Secretary of the Interior will set the date, and the Department of the In-terior will officially invite the coun-tries of the Pacific to participate.

In view of this conference the fol-lowing letter from President R. B. Van Kleinsmid of the University of Ari-zona will prove of interest.

Mr. Vaughan MacCaughey, Department of Public Instruction,

Honolulu, T. H. My Dear Supt. MacCaughey :

Your letter of recent date in the matter of visiting Hawaii for the purpose of studying your educational problems is just at hand. I have given the matter a considerable amount of thought because of the fact that last year by invitation of the Mexican gov-ernment, through their Ambassador in Washington, I made an official visit to the National University of Mexico and while in that republic studied their educational system.

It has been more recently proposed


by the Pan-American Union in Wash-ington that I arrange for a visit to the South American republics, officially visiting their educational institutions. Just when this plan can be worked out it is difficult to. tell because of the unsettled condition of affairs in general at this time.

If you feel that a visit to your uni-versity or college and an investigation of your educational problems in Ha-waii could be of service to you and helpful to our own people in under-standing the educational conditions of your territory, I may be able to make the trip. I should be glad to have you write me if you think favorably in this matter, stating at what time such a visit would be most acceptable to yourself and other educational author-ities of Hawaii. Of course, it would be more convenient for me to arrange such a trip directly after the first of June, though another time could doubt-less be determined upon without any great inconvenience here.

With kind regards and best wishes, I am

Faithfully yours, R. B. VAN KLEINSMID,

President.

ACADEMIC COOPERATION WITH MEXICO

If racial differences are so frequent-ly the antecedents of international dif-ferences, a relationship with Mexico as cordial as that existing between the United States and Canada might be regarded as the dream of an idealist ; and if to this appreciation of unlike-ness there has in the past been added the involuntary surrender of territory by one party, there exists seemingly without hope of readjustment the prob-ability of mutual economic and social loss and the ever impending possibility of national conflict. Only a conscious effort on the part of two nations so

situated can divert what is otherwise a natural tendency. The presence of Chinese students in our universities and colleges has gone far to remove the bogey of the yellow peril as far as that nation is concerned. A mutual exchange of ideas sincerely practiced by citizens of two states will without doubt create an international friend-ship.

The recent visit of President R. B. von Kleinsmid of the University of Arizona to the National University of Mexico and the return of the visit by Dr. Jose Natividad Macias, president of the National University of the republic of the south were more than mere academic courtesies. They were international events. For several years President von Kleinsmid has been ad-vancing the idea that the desired closer economic relation and the better po-litical understanding with the Spanish republics of this hemisphere could be hastened greatly through the medium of our universities and especially those located in the southwest. The success of President von Kleinsmid's efforts is indicated by the desire on the part of the Mexican republic for a closer relationship and a better understanding with the United States. The University of Mexico has broken a precedent al-most four centuries old, and for the first time has conferred upon a for-eigner the degree of doctor of laws. The granting of this degree to Pres-ident von Kleinsmid was much more than a personal matter. He repre-sents institutions and ideals they de-sire to know more intimately. This idea was expressed on several occa-sions. With the same idea in mind the University of Arizona returned the courtesy, and at its recent commence-ment exercises conferred the degree of doctor of laws upon President Ma-cias of the National University of Mexico. President Macias extended


his visit to other universities of the southwest hoping to lay the founda-tion of an exchange of students and professors between his institution and others of this country.

The intelligent minds of Mexico re-gret the misconceptions of their state so generally prevalent in this country. They are making every effort to solve their problems. The National Univer-sity of Mexico, the oldest in North America, has this task definitely in mind. At one time its school of mines ranked with the best on the continent, but this has been interfered with some-what by the revolution. The engin-eering school with machinery from the United States and Europe fur-nishes a laboratory that might well be the envy of many state universities of this country. Other schools and colleges of the university are as well equipped. The professors have had the best training that the universities of the United States and Europe can afford. This feeling for the need of a better understanding of Mexico is not a new one. Societies for this purpose have been in existence several years ; and for the last three years forty-seven universities and colleges have been offering scholarships to Mexi-can students. The present movement is a most successful step in advance of previous efforts.

The need of a better understanding of Mexico on the part of the United States is appreciated most of all by the Mexican leaders themselves. They well know the prevalence of false prop-aganda within this country and desire that we learn of conditions for our-selves. Stories in our own newspa-pers of revolts in Mexico City scarcely held in check by machine guns on public buildings are only disproved When one visits the Mexican capital and finds no revolution, no machine guns ; but instead are many indica-

tions of industry and prosperity. This is a simple illustration of one miscon-ception disproved by the visit of the university presidents. The full sig-nificance can be determined only in later years after the Republic of\ Mex-ico has gone farther in the solution of her economic, social, and political difficulties ; and after we have learned to understand and appreciate her strug-gles.

THE SCHOOLS AND HAWAII'S NATURE BACKGROUND By Vaughan MacCaughey.

The natural background of Hawaii constitutes an unrivaled educational laboratory and playground. The sea-reef, beach, lowlands, plantations, for-ests, mountains and cloud-kissed peaks make a marvelously rich and diversified island world. Hawaii's boys and girls, if they are to grow up as intelligent, contented, happy men and women, should be given a working-knowledge of and a sympathetic attitude toward this incomparable nature heritage. Love of the out-of-doors is a powerful source of _human happiness. Knowl-edge of natural science is basic in building community prosperity. Na-ture study and elementary science in the schools are not fads, but are part of every child's birthright, and part of every properly organized curricu-lum. Hawaii's agricultural success has been due largely to applied science. Scientific courses should be promi-nent in our high schools. Biology, chemistry, physics, physical geography, health and sanitation—these are essen-tials in the twentieth century. Hawaii has great out-door educational re-sources that scarcely have been touched. They should be incorporated into the program of every school, and into the life of the people. Sympa-thetic knowledge of the environment is the basis of education.


Pan-Pacific Commercial Statistics By HON. JOHN BARRETT.

THE Hon. John Barrett, after a de-cade of usefulness at the head of the Pan-American Union, retires

from that organization, being succeed-ed as Director General by Dr. L. S. Rowe, formerly chief of the Latin-American Division of the Department of State. He assumed the duties of his new office on September first, with assurances to the Pan-Pacific Union that the splendid spirit of cooperation that has always existed between the Pan Pacific and Pan American Unions would continue and grow even closer in effect.

One of the last acts of Mr. Barrett was to present an autograph photo-graph of himself to the Pan-Pacific Union, and to prepare a table of com-mercial Pan Pacific activities, both of which we herewith submit to our read-ers:

"Referring to your esteemed note, it gives me much pleasure to send you an appropriately autographed photograph of myself for use in connection with your work of the Pan Pacific Union.

"Please keep me informed from time to time as to just what you are doing,

and I will endeavor to cooperate with you in every way possible, for I am pro-foundly interested in the future of your organization.

"Yours very sincerely, "JOHN BARRETT."

Countries Bordering on the Pacific. (Including Canada, United States, Mexico, Central America, and Colombia, Ecuador,

Peru, Chile, Bolivia) Area Population Commerce

Canada 3,604,000 8,360,000 $2,503,000,000 United States 3,027,000 103,500,000 6,149,000,000 Mexico 767,000 15,160,000 265,888,000 Central America 220,200 5,445,000 94,842,000 Five South Ameri-

can Countries 2,234,000 18,995,000 774,669,000

9,852,200 151,458,000 $9,787,399,000

5,183,000 407,821,000 $2,082,56,000 Philippines Australia Total 15,035,200 559,279,000 $11,869,935,000 World 50,000,000 1,692,000,000 $46,523,000,000 Countries Border-

ing on Pacific, Percent of World 30.07 33.00 25.51

All Latin America 8,062,000 58,350,000 $5,939,000,000 Java and the Dutch East Indies are not included

in this table, nor are Siberia, Malay, Cochin-China, Siam, New Zealand, and the South Sea islands.

Total

Japan Korea China

Some Korean Inventions

THE Rev. J. A. Duncan, a mission-ary who has lived in Korea for ten years, says in an interview :

"Korea was and still is a progressive nation. I saw recently some reference to the fact that Korea used ironclads against the Japanese as early as 1597, and that the Koreans were the first to use cast metal type. Nothing has been said about and perhaps it is not gen-erally known that the Koreans discov-ered gunpowder in 200 B. C., fourteen

centuries before the German monk who is ordinarily credited with the discov-ery gave out his formula. The astro-nomers of Silla, one of the ancient provinces of Korea, thought out the operations of the planetary system and its working to such an extent that they were able to predict eclipses with cer-tainty centuries before present-day sci-entists gave credit for these discoveries, and it was this same people that gave the world the magnetic needle and the


mariner's compass. One of their old observatory towers can still be seen in lower Korea. Many of the industrial arts of the present day are based on Korean discoveries.

"A Korean invented the potter's wheel and Korean potters discovered the art of underglazing. The present Emperor of Japan drinks his tea from the first ex-amples of Korean pottery. Count Oku-ma gives credit to Koreans for the in-troduction into Japan of the art of weaving silk and of carpentry and ar-chitecture. Koreans first sent into Ja-pan musical instruments. There were

brass and bronze foundries in Korea at the beginning of the Christian era. One of their products is still in Korea —the great bell of Silla, the same size as the great bell of Moscow, but cast eleven centuries before the latter. Bronze cannons from Korea have been found in China cast in 200 B. C.

"There is a tradition, and evidence to support it, that Korean engineers plan-ned and built the great wall of China for the 'Emperor of China. The ad-vanced civilization of Korea no doubt was contemporaneous with the same advanced civilization of China."

A Pan-Pacific Financial Conference

FROM Australia, New Zealand, the United States as well as from Oriental countries have come sug-

gestions urging the calling of a Pan-Pacific Financial Conference at the Ocean's Crossroads.

In Washington the calling of such a conference in Honolulu has received serious consideration. There are many intricate problems of exchange that in-

,

terest the financial leaders of Pacific lands, these must be thought out and solved along technical lines not easily comprehended by the layman, but there is one reform that might be accomp-lished that would be understood and valued by all, the adoption throughout Pacific lands of the decimal system of currency with one standard of value, either the gold dollar of Canada or the United States, or the gold yen of Ja-pan. This would be but an item in the deliberation of trained financial giants of the Pacific, but it would loom up very big in the eyes of men who trade with Pacific lands or have any business transactions with their mer-chants.

It has been the dream of many ideal-ists that once all Pacific lands are placed on a gold basis that a Pan Pa-cific coin, the value of either the Ameri-can five dollar gold piece or the Aus-tralian pound, might become the unit of value throughout the Pacific lands.

Even were the countries of the Pacific to jointly adopt a gold coinage of universal value in Pacific lands, this might not do away entirely with sales of ex-change, but it would add untold con-veniences to the conduct of commerce and travel in Pacific lands. Dr. Geo. Fred Kurz, V. P., of Tiffany & Co., president of the International Metric Society, has written recently on this subject in the Mid-Pacific Magazine.

Congressman Michael F. Phelan of the Banking and Currency Committee, after a recent visit to the Orient, thinks a Pan-Pacific Conference should be called to meet at Honolulu under the auspices of the Pan-Pacific Union.

Advertising Section

THE PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY

Consistent with its policy of super-service, the Pacific Mail Steamship Com-pany provides shore facilities to tourists and shippers no less attractive than are found on its modernized steamers. When in Hongkong, accept the Company's welcome at its headquarters shown above.

2 THE MID-PACIFIC

Toyo Kisen Kaisha is ;the largest

steamship company operating between San Francisco, Japan and the Orient. It maintains fast and frequent service across the Pacific, following the "Pathway of the Sun" along the semi-tropic route, touching Honolulu. This is one of the most delightful ocean voyages in the world, as it carries the passenger over smoothest seas and, by touching at Honolulu, affords a pleasant break in the journey. The steamers of this line are of the most advanced types, having been built especially for this service.

The present fleet of the North Ameri-can line consists of the following : Shinyo Maru, triple turbine, 22,000 tons ; Tenyo Maru, triple turbine, 22,000 tons ; Siberia Maru, 20,000 tons, twin screw ; Korea Maru, twin screw, 20,000 tons, and Persia Maru, 9,000 tons.

The Tenyo and Shinyo Maru are sister ships of 22,000 tons displacement. They are driven by triple screw turbine en-gines which account for an utter absence of vibration for a speed of 21 knots per hour. These ships are as finely equipped in every detail as the best first-class ho-tels on shore, and leave nothing to be de-sired in service or table. The total length of the deck area measures almost a mile. giving ample opportunity for exercise and promenade.

In addition to these giant liners a num-ber of cargo steamers are operated to take care of the freight business.

Trans-Pacific Service to South America.

In connection with the trans-Pacific service to North America, Toyo Kisen Kaisha also operates a line of steamers from Hongkong to Valparaiso (South America), via Moji, Kobe, Yokohama, Honolulu, San Francisco, San Pedro (Los Angeles), Salina Cruz, Balboa (Ancon), Callao, Arica and Iquique. This is the longest regular service in op-eration by any Japanese steamship line touching American ports.

The steamers on this line are in through round trip service between China and Japan ports and Southern Chile via San Francisco and west coast ports of North and South America. Steamers call at San Pedro on their outward and homeward voyages to the Orient. These steamers are all new and of the latest type with saloon accommodations. In this fleet are the Anyo Maru, 18,500

tons ; Kiyo Maru, 17,000 tons, and the Seiyo Maru, 14,000 tons.

The passenger accommodations are amidships, all rooms being located on the upper and bridge decks, thus affording plenty of light and ventilation. There are numerous baths and lavatories which afford ample accommodations for all passengers.

The Head Office of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha is in Tokyo.

The Honolulu office is in the Alex-ander Young Building. The office for America is in San Francisco, Cal., at 625 Market street ; New York office, 165 Broadway.

THE MID-PACIFIC 3

Around Oahu by Rail

The Oahu Railway practically encircles the Island of Oahu. There are daily trains to Haleiwa—"the House Beautiful" (see arrow), and through the

most extensive pineapple fields in the world, at Wahiawa. .

A Scene .long the Line of the Oahu Railway

4

THE MID-PACIFIC

Honolulu from the Trolley Car

The Trolley Car at the Judiciary Building and Statue of Kamehameha "the Great."

Honolulu Rapid Transit & Land Co., Ltd.

The world's

largest and

most luscious

pineapples

at home on

the uplands

of Hawaii

P I CKED ripe and canned right" is more than a slogan. Strictly ad-

hered to by the Hawaiian Pineapple • Packers' Association—ten corporations engaged in the growing and canning of pineapples in the Hawaiian Islands—it has won the palate of the world to what is perhaps the most delicious product of any land. Each morning sees the golden ripe fruit in the field and within a few

hours that same fragrant fruit is per-fectly preserved in shining tin.

There are fifty odd thousand acres of pineapples grown annually in Hawaii and the acreage increases yearly. This season's pack amounts to approximately six million cases, the major portion of which is handled during the Summer months. There are twelve canneries, some of them turning out 35,000 cases a day.

ULU NORMAL SCHOOL

PREPARED AND COP1R:C,

11_116 T POP

AALAt.A

AHU1.tc

The Island of Maui

THE MID-PACIFIC

5

May by courtesy of Alexander c6 Baldwin, Ltd.

The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., (known by everyone as "A. & B."), is looked upon as one of the most progres-sive American corporations in Hawaii.

Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents for the largest sugar plantation of the Hawaiian Islands and second largest in the world, namely, the Hawaiian Com-mercial & Sugar Company at Puunene, Maui. They are also agents for many other plantations and concerns of the Islands, among which are the Haiku Sugar Company, Paia Plantation, Maui Agricultural Company, Hawaiian Sugar Company, McBryde Sugar Company Ltd., Kahului Railroad Company, Kauai Railroad Company, Ltd., and Honolua Ranch.

This firm ships a larger proportion of the total sugar crop of the Hawaiian Islands than any other agency.

In addition to their extensive sugar plantations, they are also agents for the following well-known and strong insur-ance companies : Springfield Fire & Ma-rine Ins. Co., American Central Insur-

ance Co., The Home Insurance Co. of New York, The New Zealand Insurance Co., General A. F. & L. Assurance Cor-poration, Switzerland Marine Insurance Co., Ltd.

The officers of this large and progres-sive firm, all of whom are staunch sup-porters of the Pan-Pacific and other movements which are for the good of Ha-waii, are as follows :

W. M. Alexander, President ; H. A. Baldwin, First Vice-President ; J. Water-house, Second Vice-President and Man-ager; W. 0. Smith, Third Vice Pres-ident ; John Guild, Secretary ; C. R. Hem-enway, Treasurer ; F. F. Baldwin, Direc-tor ; C. H. Atherton, Director ; W. R. Castle, Director.

Besides the home office in the Stangen-wald Building, Honolulu, Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., maintain extensive offices in Seattle, in the Melhorn Building ; in New York at 82 Wall Street, and in the Alaska Commercial Building, San Fran-cisco.

HONJUUV NOItt'ALSI.4DOL 60,:f

KAIJA I h81.1.15tatule Stip.tors Mite, 5+7

cnd Twilusty.filis Miles Acrol5

4—hau wa petior, 5.g. 5o fact

aI ittanott from.Nonni ul u 98 Masi 4Vid. R koao Peppin

it+itt turfs 5tagar Ptaniailaos SU• Crop for i907 , 7 4.41 tens j.

6 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Island of Kauai

Maps by courtesy of Castle (C Cooke, Ltd.

TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN.

The Matson Navigation Company, maintaining 'the premier ferry service between Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kisen Kaisha, main-taining palatial ocean greyhound service between San Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, have their Hawaiian agen-cies with Castle & Cooke, Ltd.

This, one of the oldest firms in Hono-lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchants streets, Honolulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Matson Navigation Company. The ad-joining offices are used by the firm for their business as sugar factors and in-surance agents ; Phone 1251.

Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for many of the plantations throughout Ha-waii, and here may be secured much varied information. Here also the tour-ist may secure in the folder racks, book-lets and pamphlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean.

1110,1_,

rr

FERTILIZING THE SOIL.

Millions of dollars are spent in Hawaii fertilizing the cane and pineapple fields.

The Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Com-pany, with large works and warehouses in Honolulu, imports from every part of the Globe the many ship loads of ammonia, nitrates, potash, sulphur ane, guano that go to make the special fertilizers needed for the varied soils and conditions of the is-lands. Its chemists test the soils and then give the recipe for the particular blend of fertilizer that is needed.

This great industry is one of the results of successful sugar planting in Hawaii, and without fertilizing, sugar growing in the Hawaiian Islands could not be successful.

This company began operations in Mid-way Islands years ago, finally exhausting its guano beds, but securing others.

• . • roil&

THE MID-PACIFIC 7

Exterior.

Interior.

8 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Home Building in Honolulu of the American Factors, Ltd , Plantation Agents and Wholesale Merchants.

9 THE MID-PACIFIC

IElectric Lighting in Honolulu

The general offices on King Street.

THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC COMPANY, LTD.

In Honolulu electricity costs eight cents per kilowatt, for the first two kilowatts per month, per lamp, and six cents thereafter. From the Hawaiian Electric Company plant, power is fur-nished to the pineapple canneries (the largest canneries in the world) to the extent of seven hundred horse power, with another two hundred and fifty

horse power to the Federal Wireless Station, fifteen miles distant, besides current for lighting all private resi-dences in Honolulu, as well as for operating its own extensive ice plant. A line has also been built to furnish light and power to the great army post of Schofield Barracks, twenty miles dis-tant from Honolulu.

The power house and ice plant.

10

THE MID-PACIFIC

The Trust Company in Hawaii

In Hawaii the functions of a Trust Company embrace a business of a very wide scope. The Waterhouse Trust Company has made a specialty of real estate and has developed some of the most prominent sections of Honolulu, many of which it still manages, so that the Tourist finds it of great assistance, when arriving in Honolulu, to get in touch with its real estate department, where he will receive expert, prompt and courteous advice and service.

Another prominent qualification of this company is its stock and bond depart-ment. It is not only particularly qualified to advise its clients as to local securities, but, by means of correspondents in the principal mainland cities is in close touch

with foreign markets and world condi-tions.

It has been slower to arrive in Hawaii. perhaps, than elsewhere in the United States, but, it is a noticeable fact that the day of the individual as Executor and Trustee is fast waning, and thinking men, men of brains and ability, are nam-ing Trust Companies in their wills to handle their estates. This is due to the perpetual character of a Trust Company, its experience in every line of business, and the practical assurance that the estate will not be wasted or dissipated. The Waterhouse Trust Company handles some of the largest estates in the Terri-tory and it particularly qualifies for these duties.

The Trent Trust Company, though a comparatively young organization, is one of the most popular financial insti-tutions in the Islands. It was organ-ized in 1907, with a capital of $50,000, since increased to $100,000. According to the last statement its capital, un-divided profits and surplus amounted to $235,886.30, and its gross assets to $1,074,224.60.

The company is efficiently organized

to handle the work of Manager of Es-tates, Executor, Fiduciary Agent, and Agent for Non-Residents. It has the following departments : Trusts, Invest-ments, Real Estate, Rents, Insurance, and Safe Deposit.

The Trent Trust's offices are located on the ground floor of 921 Fort Street. the principal business thoroughfare of Honolulu.

THE MID-PACIFIC 11

The Catton, Neill Building, Honolulu. Also the home of the General Electric Company in Hauiaii.

Honolulu is known around the world for the manufacture of sugar mill ma-

' chinery. Much of this is made by Cat- ton, Neill & Co., Ltd., Engineers, who build and erect sugar mill machinery. The works are on South street, Honolulu, while the offices and salesrooms are lo-cated in a new concrete building on Ala-kea and Queen streets, erected recently for this purpose. Here are seen the dis-plays of the General Electric Co., of which Catton, Neill & Co., Ltd., are Hawaiian agents, as well as for the leading gas en-gines, water wheels, steam plows, pumps, m—densers and tools manufactured in the United States. This is one of the oldest engineering firms in Hawaii.

Half a century is an age in the life of Honolulu. The first frame building is not one hundred years old, and the first hardware store, that of E. 0. Hall & Son, Ltd., was not founded until the year 185o, but since then, on the com-manding corner of Fort and King streets, it has remained the premier hardware concern in Hawaii. The entire three-story building is taken up with extensive displays of every kind of hardwafe. One floor, however, is given over to crockery and kitchen utensils, while in the base-ment even a ship might be fitted out with its hardware, cordage, and roping needs. This company is also agent for the Sher-win-Williams house paints and represents many mainland hardware firms.

E. 0. Hall & Son Building, Fort and King Streets.

12 THE MID-PACIFIC

HOME FERTILIZING.

The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company stores its fertilizers in the largest con-crete warehouse west of the Rockies. The works of this company cover several acres near Honolulu. The ingredients are pur-chased in shipload lots, and the formulas adopted for the different plantations for

THE WORLD'S FIRST TEL

The Mutual Telephone Company of Honolulu is the outgrowth of the first house to house telephone system in the world, installed in Honolulu in the late seventies. This company has lately led the world in telephone improvements, was the first to install a commercial wireless system of telegraphy (between the Hawaiian Islands), and is preparing to link up its exchanges on the different islands of the group by wireless tele-phony, as soon as this mode of communi-cation is perfected.

The present Mutual Telephone Com-pany was incorporated in 1883 and used the old manual switchboard until 1909, when it was reorganized and the Auto-matic telephone system installed, which has proved the most satisfactory of any in the world, making it possible in cos-mopolitan Honolulu for the many men of many Pacific races to call each other without having to strive with "Central."

their fertilizers are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Company. The chemists analyze the soil and suggest the formulas. For the small planter this company makes special fertilizers, and the gardens of Honolulu are kept beauti-ful by the use of a special lawn fertilizer made by this company. Fertilizing alone has made Hawaii the garden of the Pa-cific.

EPHONE EXCHANGE.

So rapid was the increase of subscribers after the Automatic installation that it became necessary to build and equip two new exchanges, one in Kaimtiki and the other at Kalihi. Moreover the wireless service to the other islands being under control of the Mutual Telephone Com-pany, as well as the telephone systems of the islands of Maui and Hawaii, it has become possible to send and receive mes-sages between the islands by phone, and even cable messages are usually sent out over the phone before the official mes-sage is delivered.

Australia sent a commission to Hawaii to study and report on the Hon-olulu Automatic exchange, and has since adopted the Automatic. At present the Inter-Island Wireless system is under lease to the Federal Government, but the Mutual Telephone Company is going ahead with its improvements of service on each of the three larger islands : Oahu, Maui and Hawaii.

Banking in Honolulu

The First National Bank

of Hawaii at the corner of

Fort and King streets, Hono-

lulu. This bank is the de-

pository in Hawaii of the

United States Government.

THE MID--PACIFIC

13

The Bank of Bishop & Company,

Ltd., popularly known as the "Bank of

Superior Service", and the largest bank in the Islands, was organized in 1858

and until its incorporation in 1919, was

known as The Banking House of

Bishop & Co. It has a Paid up Cap-

ital of One Million Dollars and a Sur-

plus Fund of $344.883.93.

The operations of the Bank began with the encouragement of the whal-

ing business, at that time one of the leading industries of the Islands, and

has ever been a power for Commercial

and Industrial Progress.

The institution has correspondents in

all the principal cities of the world, and through its connections can handle any

foreign or domestic business entrusted

to it.

Visitors are expected to use the

Bank Service in any way suited to

their needs.

The Yokohama Specie Bank, Limited, a branch of the famous Japanese insti-tution, with a subscribed capital of yen 100,000,000, or about $50,000,000, and a reserve fund of yen 50,000,000, occupies its magnificent building at the corner of Merchant and Bethel streets, opposite the postoffice and Bishop & Co. It is the most up-to-date fire-proof building in Hawaii, the interior being finished in bronze marble.

The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., is the most recently incorporated Trust Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its directors and officers are men of ability, integrity and high standing in the com-munity. The Company was incorporated in June of 1911 with a capital of $1oo,000 fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated doubling this capital. On June 3o, 1917, the capital of the Company was $200,000 ; surplus $io,000, and undivided profits 853.306.75. Tt conducts a trust company business in all its various lines with offices in the Stangenwald Building, Mer-chant Street, adjoining the Bank of Ha-waii.

14

THE MID-PACIFIC

THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU.

Honolulu still relies for building ma-terial on the mainland. For many years the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained

its own line of clipper schooners that brought down lumber from Puget Sound with which to "build Hawaii." Today the firm occupies its own spacious block on King Street, where every necessity needed for building the home is supplied. In fact, often it is this firm that guaran-tees the contractor, and also assures the owner that his house will be well built and completed on time. Things are done on a large scale in Hawaii ; so it is that one firm undertakes to supply material from the breakino-b of ground until the last coat of paint is put on the completed building. A spacious and splendidly equipped hard-ware department is one of the features of Lewers & Cooke's establishment.

The Von Hamm-Young Co., Importers,

Machinery Merchants, and leading auto-mobile dealers, have their offices and store in the Alexander Young Building, at the corner of King and Bishop streets, and their magnificent automobile salesroom and garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea Street. Here one may find almost anything. Phone No. 4901.

The Pacific Engineering Company,

Ltd., with spacious quarters in the Yoko-

hama Specie Bank Building, Honolulu,

are engineers and constructors of build-

ings of every kind, from the smallest pri-

vate residences to the large and imposing business blocks. Being made up of some of the most prominent men in the Islands

it is not surprising that it secures some of the large and important contracts. The Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu was the work of this firm.

The Oahu Ice and Electric Company supplies the Army in Honolulu at a

cheaper price than the United States Gov-ernment can buy ice in Alaska. The

works and cold storage rooms are in the Kakaako district, but a phone mes-sage to 1128 will answer every purpose, as the company has its auto delivery

trucks.

Old Kona Coffee is considered by con-

noisseurs to have a delicious flavor all its own, and is the real Hawaiian coffee.

The best of the annual crop is secured

and aged by the McChesney Coffee Com-

pany on Merchant Street, Honolulu,

phone 2717. Mail orders of pound to

five-pound sealed cans are packed with

the aged Kona Coffee and sent to friends

or customers on the mainland.

THE MID-PACIFIC 15

••■•■■•••■••

ASIA The American Magazine on the Orient

ASIA discusses the most immediate and far-reaching Eastern policies. Its articles inform as well as delight you.

The Ancient East with its philosophy, religion, art and commerce is coming into its own again.

Let your family grow up with ASIA which unfolds to them the snow-capped Himalayas, the long sweep of the Yang-tse and the wide steppes of Siberia.

Asia gives you a better understanding of world events and world problems.

Germany's dream of Asiatic domination is over.

Now America awakens to its new posi-tion as a great world power—requiring all the genius of its people to understand and solve the difficulties of international politics and world organizations, as well as to accept the vast possibilities now presented for material achievement thru foreign commerce.

The basis of such understanding is

knowledge—a knowledge born out of sympathetic and vital interest in the life and development of other races. Amer-ica must understand the Orient. if a League of Nations or any kindred plan of international co-operation is to suc-ceed. America must know the Orient if the present period of material progress our country is now entering—the period of great foreign commerce and shipping —is to shine as brilliantly as the years of magnificent internal development we have seen.

ASIA brings monthly into your home or office the Orient's contributions to art. and industry, commerce and wealth, re-ligion and thought, and the part it is to play in the progress of civilization and world Peace.

ASIA is not on general sale. The best way to receive it is through membership in the American Asiatic Association. Singly ASIA sells for 35 cents. Through membership you receive ASIA for one year.

Sign and return the application form.

: Secretary, American Asiatic Assn. : 627 Lexington Ave., New York.

I desire to become an Associate Member of the American Asiatic

: Association. ' I send 3.5o for one : year's dues, and of this amount $3.25

: will be used for payment on a year's

: subscription for the magazine, ASIA : Name : Address : Business or Profession

16

FHE MID-PACIFIC

Round About A.M.M.. ... ..M••■■Mo.a.01■•■•■•••••J

Honolulu

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Streets, is the actual center of life and activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter-section of the tram lines, the shoppers, business men, and tourists await their cars, chatting at the open soda fountain, that is the feature of the Chambers Drug Store. Here the tourist or stranger is advised as to the sights of the city, and supplied with any perfumes, candies or drugs he may need during his stay. Cham-bers' Drug Store is one of the institutions of Honolulu. Phone No. 1291.

The largest of the very fashionable shops in the Alexander Young Building, occupying the very central portion, is that of the Hawaiian News Company. Here the ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest design is kept in stock. Every kind of paper, wholesale or retail,. is sup-plied, as well as printers' and binders' supplies. There are musical instruments of every kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, and the Angelus Player Piano. and this concern is constantly adding new features and new stock. The business man will find his every need in the office supplied by the Hawaiian News Company merely on a call over the phone, and this is true also of the fashionable society leader, whether her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms of the Hawaiian News Company are interesting

Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh from the oven, the delicious baker's bread and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all the grocery stores carry Love's Bakery crisp, fresh crackers and biscuits that come from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has the most complete and up to date machinery and equipment in the Ter- ritory.

The Thompson Optical Institute is just what its name implies, and occupy-ing a location on Hotel Street opposite Bishop Park and the Young Hotel, it is convenient to all. Here the eye is tested and here all kinds of lenses are ground and repaired, for the Thompson Optical Institute is the most complete place of its kind in Hawaii. The glasses of visitors are quickly repaired, and those of residents kept in order.

Honolulu is so healthy that people don't usually die there, but when they do they phone in advance to Henry H. Wil-liams, 1374 Nuuanu St., phone number 1408, and he arranges the after details. If you are a tourist and wish to be inter-red in your own plot on the mainland, Williams will embalm you ; or he will ar-range all details for interment in Hono-lulu. Don't leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any other, but if you must, let your friends talk it over with Williams.

Whatever you do, do not fail to visit the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King Street. Early morning is the best time for this, when all the multi-colored fish of Hawaiian waters are presented to view and every nationality on the islands is on parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is the leading spirit and founder of the Oahu Fish Market, which is a Chinese institution of which the city is proud.

A monument to the pluck and energy of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the City Mill Company, of which he is treasurer and manager. This plant at Queen and Kekaulike streets is one of Honolulu's leading enterprises, doing a flourishing lumber and mill business.

The Sweet Shop, on Hotel Street, op-posite the Alexander Young, is the one reasonably priced tourist restaurant. Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian singers and players, and here at every hour may be- enjoyed at very reasonable prices the delicacies of the season.

THE MID-PACIFIC

17

The Honolulu Construction and Draying Company has its main offices at 65 Queen Street. This concern has recently absorbed two of the leading express and transfer companies, and has also acquired the Honolulu Lava Brick Com-pany. It is making a success of its enterprises. Phone 4981.

Stevedoring in Honolulu is attended to by the firm of McCabe, Hamilton and Renny Co., Ltd., 20 South Queen Street. Men of almost every Pacific race are employed by this firm, and the men of each race seem fitted for some particular part of the work, so that quick and effi-cient is the loading and unloading of vessels in Honolulu.

With the wood that is used for building in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen Street, Phone 2105, have for generations supplied the people of Honolulu and those on the other islands ; also their buildings and paints. Their office is on Queen Street, near the Inter-Island S. N. Com-pany Building, and their lumber yards

extend right back to the harbor front, where every kind of hard and soft wood grown on the coast is landed by the schooners that ply from Puget Sound.

The city's great furniture store, that of J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large por-tion of the Lewers & Cooke Block on King Street. Here the latest styles in home and office furniture arriving con-stantly from San Francisco are displayed

on several spacious floors. Phone No. 2111.

The leading music store in Hawaii is on King and Fort Streets—the Berg-strom Music Company. No home is com-plete in Honolulu without an ukulele, a piano and a Victor talking machine. The Bergstrom Music Company, with its big store on Fort Street, will provide you with these—a Chickering, a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a tiny up-right Boudoir for your cottage ; and if you are a transient it will rent you a pi-ano. The Bergstrom Music Company, phone 2331.

The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda water. The Consolidated Soda Water Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the largest manufacturers of delight-ful soda beverages in the Territory. Aerated waters cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water that is delicious, besides a score of other flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at any store.

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.

Wonderful New Zealand ■■■■•■■■■■••■•••■•■•••■•■••■■•■■■•■••■•■■■■■•■•■■■■■

18

THE MID-PACIFIC

Scenically New Zealand is the world's wonderland. There is no other place in the world that offers such an aggrega-tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are in every way more magnificent and awe-inspiring than are the fjords of Norway. Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic panorama of unrivalled beauty from end to end. Its hot springs and geysers in the Rotorua district on the North Island have no equal anywhere. In this district the native Maoris still keep up their ancient dances or haka haka, and here may be seen the wonderfully carved houses of the aboriginal New Zealanders. There are no more beautiful lakes any-where in the world than are the Cold Lakes of the South Island, nestling as they do among mountains that rise sheer ten thousand feet. Among these moun-tains are some of the largest and most scenic glaciers in the world. In these Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than twelve thousand feet high. On its slopes the Government has built a hotel to which there is a motor car service.

New Zealand was the first country to perfect the government tourist bureau. She has built hotels and rest houses

throughout the Dominion for the benefit of the tourist, for whom she has also built splendid roads and wonderful moun-tain tracks. New Zealand is splendidly served by the Government Railways, which sell the tourist for a very low rate, a ticket that entitles him to travel on any of .the railways for from one to two months. In the lifetime of a single man (Sir James Mills of Dunedin, New Zealand) a New Zealand steamship com-pany has been built up that is today the fourth largest steamship company under the , British flag, and larger than any steamship company owned in America, with her ioo,000,000 population, or in Japan with her 50p00p00 population. New Zealand is a land of wonders, and may be reached from America by the Union Steamship Company boats from Vancouver, San Francisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steamship Company also transfers passengers from Sydney. The Government Tourist Bureau has commo-dious offices in Auckland and Wellington as well as the other larger cities of New Zealand. Direct information and pam-phlets may be secured by writing to the New Zealand Government Tourist Bu-reau. Wellington, New Zealand.

New South Wales

THE MID-PACIFIC

19

Mt. Kosciusko in January.

Australia's Holiday State.

A warm Australian welcome awaits the tourist in Sunny New South Wales. He is offered a wide and wonderful choice of scenic attractions.

From Sydney or from New Castle, the two chief ports of the State the tourist from overseas may reach with-in a few hours at most, of rail travel, such widely divergent scenic wonders as National Parks, the Blue Moun-tains, the Seashore Resorts, the Trout Streams, the Snowfields, the Limestone Caves, the Hawkesbury, the Illawarra, the Northern Rivers, the Southern Highlands, the Lakes District, the Tablelands, besides many places of his-toric interest-

No other country in the world has greater charm. and attraction for the

tourist, or provides such opportunities for pleasurable and diversified holiday.

New South Wales is a Paradise for those in search of Health, Rest and Recreation.

The Government Tourist Bureau is doing everything within its power to promote tourist travel within the State and make it more attractive.

Your holiday arrangements can be

made convenient and satisfying by the staff of the Bureau who will be glad-to furnish illustrated booklets, and pro-vide detailed information as to fares, accommodation, transport, etc. They are public servants and their expert services are yours for the asking. E. H. PALMER, Director, New South Wales Government Tourist Bureau and Resorts, Challis House (Opp.' G.P.O.), Sydney.

20

THE MID-PACIFIC

ISouth Australia and Tasmania I

SOUTH AUSTRALIA.

From San Francisco, Vancouver and from Honolulu there are two lines of fast steamships to Sydney, Australia.

From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus-tralia, there is a direct railway line on which concession fares are granted tourists arriving from overseas, and no visitor to the Australian Common-wealth can afford to neglect visit-ing the southern central state of

Australia ; for South Australia is the state of superb climate and unrivalled resources. Adelaide, the "Garden City of the South," is the Capital, and there is a Government Intelligence and Tourist Bureau, where the tourist, investor, or settler is given accurate information, guaranteed by the government, and free to all. From Adelaide this Bureau con-ducts rail, river and motor excursions to almost every part of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted through the mag-nificent mountain and pastoral scenery of South Australia. The government makes travel easy by a system of coupon tickets and facilities for caring for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions are arranged to the holiday resorts ; individuals or parties are made familiar with the in-dustrial resources, and the American as well as the Britisher is made welcome if he cares to make South Australia his home.

The South Australian Intelligence and Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on King William Street, Adelaide, and the government has printed many illustrated books and pamphlets describing the scenic and industrial resources of the state. A postal card or letter to the Intelligence and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will se-cure the books and information you may desire.

TASMANIA.

Tasmania is one of the finest tourist resorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten hours' run from the Australian main-land. Between Launceston and Melbourne the fastest turbine steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly and there is a regular service from Sydney to Hobart.

The island is a prolific orchard country and has some of the finest fruit growing tracts in the world. The climate is cooler than the rest of Australia.

The lakes and rivers are nearly all stocked with imported trout, which grow to weights not reached in other parts of Australia.

The Tasmanian Government deals directly with the tourist. Hobart, the capital—one of the most beautiful cities in the world—is the headquarters of the Tasmanian Government Tourist Depart-ment; and the bureau will arrange for transport of the visitor to any part of the island. A shilling trip to a local resort is not too small for the Govern-ment Bureau to handle, neither is a tour of the whole island too big. There is a branch office in Launceston performing the same functions.

The Tasmanian Government has an up-to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William Street, next door to the New Zealand Government office, where guide-books, tickets, and information can be procured. The address of the Sydney office is 262 George Street, and Tasmania also has its own offices in Brisbane and Perth.

For detailed information regarding Tasmania, either as to travel or settle-ment, enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Emmett, the Director of the Tas-manian Government Tourist Dept., Hobart, Tasmania.

THE MID-PACIFIC 21

ax.■•■•••■••■■■•••••••■••■••■••••••■•-■••••••■•••••■••••■•••••••••••■•••■■••••••••••■••••■••■■1

Honolulu Japan

THE REGAL.

Occupying one of the most prominent corners in the shopping district of Hono-lulu the Regal Shoe Store, at the corner of Fort and Hotel Streets, is a distinct credit to the American progress in these islands. The stock in this store has been carefully selected.

The Hub is the reasonably priced cloth-ing store in Honolulu, Clifford Spitzer is manager, and for a decade has studied the supplying of men in Hawaii with suitable clothing and men's furnishings. A new store has just been completed for the Hub, at 69-71 S. Hotel St., nr. Fort.

The Japan Magazine is a Rep-

resentative Monthly of things Japanese.

The Japan Magazine is published in

English and has as contributors Jap-

anese Authors, Statesmen and Scien-

tists, who are authorities on the

subjects with which they deal. The

Magazine is distinctively Japanese in

form, printed on Japanese paper, and

handsomely illustrated with half-tones

on art paper. The Japan Magazine main-

tains a high standard of excellence, por-

traying Japanese Life, Literature, Art,

Industry, Politics, Commerce and Civili-

zation, frankly and accurately represent-

ing the nation's progress, past and pres-

ent.

One Number of The Japan Magazine

is equal educationally to a Year's Mem-bership in the Asiatic Society of Japan.

On sale at Brentano's, New York City, A. C. McClurg & Co., Chicago, Ill., Smith & McCance, Boston, Mass., Aoki Taiseo-Do, San Francisco, Cal., and Yorozu & Co., Sacramento, Cal., or send direct to The Japan Magazine Company, Tokyo, Japan.

Subscription : 6 yen a year, post paid, single copies 50 sen.

Proprietor: Editor: Shigenobu Hirayama. Dr. J. Ingram Bryan.

22 ' THE MID-PACIFIC

I

Entertainment In Honolulu The Island Curio Co. on Hotel St., opposite the Alex. Young Hotel, is Hawaii's o 1 d e s t, largest and most reliable Hawaiian and South Sea Curio establish-ment. D. A. Mc-Namarra, Prop.

The Liberty, the Bijou and the Empire are the three large theatres in Honolulu providing either film features or dra-matic performances. The Liberty is one of the finest theatres in the Pacific, and is well worth a visit on account of its art collection alone.

The Pan-Pacific Gardens, on Kuakini street, near Nuuanu Avenue, constitute one of the finest Japanese Tea Gardens immaginable. Here some wonderful Japanese dinners are served, and visitors are welcomed to the gardens at all times. Adjoining these gardens are the wonder-ful Liliuokalani gardens and the series of waterfalls. Phone 5611.

The Colonial, palatial house and grounds, 1451 to 1473 Emma street, in the most beautiful section of the city within a few moments' walk of the business center or

the hills, on the car line. Rates from $50 a month up, $3.00 a day ; perfect ho-tel service. Miss M. Johnson, Manager, Phone 2876.

The Land of the Lanai.

The Halekulani, Hotel and Bunga-lows, 2199 Kalia Road, "on the Beach at Waikiki." Famous hau tree lanai along the ocean front. Rates, from $3.00 per day to $75.00 per month and up, American plan. Clifford Kimball. Phone 6101. The Donna, 1262 to 1286 Beretania St., phone 2480 ; rates $47.50 a month up, or $3.00 a day. This series of cottages, bungalows and homes, in the heart of the residence district, is on the direct car line to the city or the beach, its splendid management for years has made it known everywhere about the Pacific.

Alexander Young Hotel (under same management as Moana and Seaside Hotels).

THE MID-PACIFIC

23

Honolulu for the Tourist "Jeffs" is the word most familiar to

every society leader in Honolulu. From the start "Jeffs" took its place as the high class woman's outfitter in Hawaii. The large spacious store at Beretania and Fort streets lends itself splendidly to the displays direct, even now, from Paris as well as from New York.

Home designs are a specialty at "Jeffs" It was "Jeffs" design for the Waikiki bathing suit that was adjudged by the vote of the people to be the pret-tiest and most suitable bathing suit for the tropics.

Not only are the leaders of fashion in Hawaii outfitted at "Jeffs" but tourists and visitors quickly find their way to this most interesting exhibition of the latest fashion models of the American metrop-olis.

The prices at "Jeffs" are in accord with the after-war purse. This house has its head office at 1170 Broadway, New York, and the Honolulu branch is the dis-tributing center for the entire Pacific. The Office Supply Company, on Fort St., is the home in Hawaii of the Remington Typewriter Co., and of the Globe-Wer-nicke filing and book cases. Every kind of office furniture is kept in stock, as well as a complete line of office station-ary and every article that the man of business might need.

If you have films, or need supplies, the Honolulu Photo Supply Company, Ko-dak Headquarters for the Territory, on Fort Street, develops and prints within a few hours, when necessary, at a special rate. All photo supplies, films, film packs, plates, cameras, island scenes, photo-

graphs — everything photographic — al-ways in stock. Fresh films„ packed by the factory, in handy sealed tins for use in The tropics, without extra chai ge. In

most instances, prices are the same as on the Mainland.

The Quality Inn on Hotel Street, near Fort, is aptly named, not quite a restaurant, it serves dainty lunches and afternoon teas as well as light breakfasts.

Its candies and soft drinks are the best, and dealing directly with Rawley's Dairy, its ice cream, eggs and milks are pure and fresh almost hourly. For the shopper there is no more enticing cafe in Honolulu than the Quality Inn.

The Home of Linens, Ltd., in Hono-lulu, formerly Whitney & Marsh. Ltd., is in the very center of the shopping dis-trict on Fort street.

Here will be found the largest assort-ment of LINENS in the Territory, Rad-moor Hosiery, Ladies Home Journal Patterns, La Camille, Mme. Lyra, Red-fern & Warner's Corsets, Ready-to-wear, Underwear, and a general line of fancy and staple dry goods.

The oldest established Dry Goods House in Honolulu is "Sachs'," situated on Hotel Street near Fort. For over a quarter of a century this store has held an enviable reputation for high-class merchandise. The beautiful court dresses worn at the receptions and balls in the days of the Hawaiian Monarchy were made by this firm. Then, as now, Sachs' was the rendezvous for ladies who de-sired the very best in Silks and Dress Fabrics, Tapestries, Draperies. Linens, Laces and Millinery.

"The Blaisdell" is the newest and most up-to-date hotel in Honolulu. It is run on the European plan, being situated in the heart of the city, (Fort Street and Chaplain Lane). It is near all the down-town clubs, cafes, and restaurants. The rates are moderate — running water in every room. Public baths as well as the private, have hot and cold water. Tele-phones in all the rooms, elevator and pleasant lanais.

24

THE MID-PACIFIC

-01••■•■■•••••••■■■■•••••■■■•••■•M•■•••■•••■■••■••■■••■

Progressive Honolulu ••■•••■••••■MM.••■■■•■••••■••••■••■■•••••••■■••

THE LIBERTY HOUSE. The Liberty House succeeds the firm

of B. F. Ehlers & Co., which was estab-lished in Honolulu as far back at 1852, growing from small beginnings to be-come the largest dry goods store in Ha-waii. After an honored career under the old name it bore for sixty-five years, on July 4th, 1918, the name was changed to The Liberty House, and under this title in future will be known Hawaii's pioneer dry goods house.

The Liberty House is in fact a de-partment of the American Factors Co., Ltd. It conducts the retail dry goods business of this concern and being backed by one of the greatest financial prwers in Hawaii, it can afford to carry the largest stock and variety of dry goods in the territory.

Recently The Liberty House has been reconstructed ; its spacious windows on Fort Street, really extensive stages, are used not only for remarkable displays of dry goods and fashions, but also for patriotic displays, dioramas of the war's progress, or realistic settings illustrating the actual work of the Red Cross nurses on the field. War Posters sent from the Pan-American to the Pan-Pacific Union are displayed here as are exhibits from the Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, so that everyone stops at The Liberty House.

The people of Hawaii know The Lib-erty House through all its various floors and departments, it is the first place to attract visitors. This firm makes a specialty of ladies' apparel and of bring-ing the latest fashions to Hawaii.

The year round silk and woolen suits, skirts, waists and all the wearing apparel of women are rushed through at fre-quent intervals from New York by Wells Fargo Express, being only twelve to fourteen days in transit, so that the fash-ions on Fort Street are only a few days behind those of Broadway.

THE B. F. DILLINGHAM CO., LTD.,

The Insurance Department of The B. F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., represents all lines of insurance, being agents for a number of the best and most reliable in-surance companies in America.

Few there are in all America who have not bad friends and relatives benefited through policies in the Aetna Life In-surance Company, and affiliated com-panies, the Aetna Casualty and Surety Co. and the Automobile Insurance Co. of Hartford, Conn. These insure you in case of accident, ill health, liability and even workingmen's compensation, while your automobile is totally insured against fire, theft, collision, loss of use or dam-age of any kind to any part of the ma-chine.

In the matter of life insurance the B. F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., has arranged to offer policies in the safest and surest American concerns, among those in which it offers excellent policies are the West Coast San Francisco Life Insur-ance Co.

In fire insurance, the Hartford, Conn., is perhaps the best known of American fire insurance companies, the Phoenix Fire Insurance Co., Providence-Wash-ington, New York Underwriters and the Atlas Assurance Co., Ltd., all of which concerns the B. F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., represents in Hawaii.

Life, fire, marine, automobile and ev-ery kind of property insurance is under-written by the B. F. Dillingham Co., Ltd. A generous portion of its office space in the Stangenwald Building on Merchant street, Honolulu, is given over to the insurance department.

0 t ktItaftteAta

ttan-Parifir Union THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION is an organization representing Governments of

Pacific lands, with which are affiliated Chambers of Commerce, and kindred bodies, working for the advancement of Pacific States and Communities, and a greater coopera-tion among and between the people of all races in Pacific lands.

HONORARY PRESIDENTS Woodrow Wilson President of the United States William N. Hughes Prime Minister of Australia W. F. Massey Prime Minister of New Zealand Hsu Shih-chang President of China Sir Robert Borden Premier of Canada

HONORARY VICE-PRESIDENTS Franklin K. Lane Secretary of the Interior, U. S. A. John Barrett Director-General Pan-American Union Prince J. K. Kalanianaole Delegate to Congress from Hawaii The Governor-General of Java. The Governor-General of the Philippines. The Premiers of Australian States and of British Columbia. President Hon. C. J. McCarthy, Governor of Hawaii Secretary Alexander Hume Ford, Honolulu

The Pan-Pacific Union is incorporated with an International Board of Trustees, representing every race and nation of the Pacific.

The trustees may be added to or replaced by appointing representatives of the different countries cooperating in the Pan-Pacific Union. The following are the main objects set forth in the charter of the Pan-Pacific Union:

1. To call in conference delegates from all Pacific peoples for the purpose of discussing and furthering the interests common to Pacific nations.

2. To maintain in Hawaii and other Pacific lands bureaus of information and education concerning matters of interest to the people of the Pacific, and to disseminate to the world information of every kind of progress and opportunity in Pacific lands, and to promote the comfort and interests of all visitors.

3. To aid and assist those in all Pacific communities to better understand each other, and to work together for the furtherance of the best interests of the land of their adoption, and, through them, to spread abroad about , the Pacific the friendly spirit of inter-racial cooperation.

4. To assist and to aid the different races in lands of the Pacific to cooperate in local affairs, to raise produce, and to create home manufactured goods.

5. To own real estate, erect buildings needed for housing exhibits ; provided and maintained by the respective local committees.

6. To maintain a Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, and Art Gallery. 7. To create dioramas, gather exhibits, books and other Pan-Pacific material

of educational or instructive value. 8. To promote and conduct a Pan-Pacific Exposition of the handicrafts of the

Pacific peoples, of their works of art, and scenic dioramas of the most beautiful bits of Pacific lands, or illustrating great Pacific industries.

. 9. To establish and maintain a permanent college and "clearing house" of information (printed and otherwise) concerning the lands, commerce, peoples, and trade opportunities in countries of the Pacific, creating libraries of commercial knowledge, and training men in this commercial knowledge of Pacific lands.

10. To secure the cooperation and support of Federal and State governments, chambers of commerce, city governments, and of individuals.

1 1 . To enlist for this work of publicity in behalf of Alaska, the Territory of Hawaii, and the Philippines, Federal aid and financial support, as well as similar coopera-tion and support from all Pacific governments.

12. To bring all nations and peoples about the Pacific Ocean into closer friendly and commercial contact and relationship.

Tim iliagazinr Official Organ of the Pan-Pacific Union.

Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions,

$2.50 In advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.75. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice.

Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine.

4 4 , , • , 4 , I , 4 , , *, 4 ,

Arrx=ortaicy'

eNC

Feeding the Temple Pigeons in Japan.

P ACIFIC '66 UNION - eVols

Documents

Transcript of P ACIFIC '66 UNION - eVols