NOVEMBER, 1916. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY. $2.00 A YEAR

HMLTN CLOSED DU 620 .M5

/oL. XII. No. 5. HONOLULU, HAWAII.

• Speedy Trains in New South Wales The Mother State of the Australian Commonwealth.

The World's Famous Railway Bridge Over the Hawkesbury River, N. S. W.

All the year round New South Wales is the best place for the tourist. From Syd-ney and New Castle, as well as from points in other states, there are speedy trains, with comfortable accommodations, at very cheap rates to the interesting points of the Mother State of the Australian Commonwealth.

Within a few hours by rail of the metrop-olis of Sydney are located some of the most wonderful bits of scenery in the world. It is but a half afternoon's train ride to the beautiful Blue Mountains, particularly fa-mous for the exhilarating properties of at-mosphere. Here and in other parts of the state are the world's most wonderful and beautiful limestone caverns. Those of Jenolan are known by fame in every land.

Reached Ay the south coast railways are the surf bathing and picnicing resorts famed throughout Australia and even abroad. Within a score of miles of Sydney is the beautiful. Hawkeshury river and its great

railway bridge. Here is to be found glorious river scenery as well as excellent fishing and camping grounds. By rail also is reached the splendid trout fishing streams of New South Wales, stocked with fry. yearling and two year old trout.

Beautiful waterfalls abound throughout the state and all beauty spots are reached after a few hours' comfortable trip frorr Sydney.

Steamship passengers arriving at. Sydney disembark at Circular Quay. Here the city tramways (electric traction) converge, and this is the terminus of thirty routes, varying from two to eleven miles in length. One of the best means of seeing the pic-turesque views and places of interest about Sydney is to travel around them all by elec-tric tram. The cost is trifling, as the fares on the state railways are low. The secretary of the railway system is J. S. Spurway.

01,140•4! • or • • • oqi4 • pst4 IIINC7110:7111 — MN LI!,1011 1,11 a e

.

5. • .

—

-

5

4. .• 4,

0'4 r ghb_trartfir giagattur CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

VOLUME XII. NUMBER

15 •

CONTENTS FOR NOVEMBER, 1916. •

1

•

• • •

• . . •

.1 • .

.1

.1

.1

.1

.

.1

.

.

•

Our Art Gallery - - - - - - - - 402

The Pan-Pacific Commercial and Industrial Museum - 417

The Hawaiian Civic Convention - - - - - 425

The Trail and Mountain Club — - - - 429

Solomon Island Days - - - - - - - 433 By Charmian Kittredge London

From Yokohama to Toyko - - - - - - 439 By Harvey L. Miller

Windward Molokai - - - - - - - 443 By Kenneth P. Emory

Provincial Progress in the Philippines - - - - 449 By Monroe Dooley

The Birds of Australia - — - - - - 453 By James A. Leach, Se. D.

The Forests of Hawaii - - - - - - - 457 By Wm. L. Hall

On the Djokjarkarta - - - - - - - 465 From the Editor's Diary

Fascinating French China — - - - - - 469 By A. Ballif, President of the Touring Club of France.

Kau and Her Deserts in Hawaii - - - - 473 By H. W. Kinney

Greymouth and New Zealand's West Coast - - - 447 By L. Fenwick

Fijian Homes and Houses - - - - - - 481 By Wm. T. Bingham, Sc. D.

What Hawaii Owes to the Missionaries - - - - 487 By R. B. Dodge

The Love-Apple, a Pacific Gift - - - - - 491 By Edward Ables, of the Pan-American Union Staff

Encyclopaedia to Hawaii and the Pacific — - -

.

• . •

•

•

• • •

• R 4

•

• • •

•

• .

. •

•

• •

1• • .

S • ill .1

ol . ,i

My glib—Puri& Magazine t- Oi

Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Hon&lu"Sataar;dBtAleextiinc,oLV..50. Ye;rolry rfsorerZgtnioncsouinntte United Statesgalnedctorzeinncs11162.0() in advance. t..1:

Entere'd as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. ' 5

Permission 4

is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given '14-4,

HanininiEfinnInIn ii • i • • • • rreltntil tali • rrswrii1tiet4iVerier7•iiii (ii

7,4 0: .1. • -

•

40-

••• ••••••;11i., .,:.*:•"'

1(4' - • '••• .••••,r-i.•••;••4 • ti:•• • •--•-••• • '•• 1)••• • ••‘:

• ! • • • " 1 j1•.4 ... • ••'E•,..•

•

•

•

•

05 05 •••. 41.4

•

•

•

•

mutp,,4 1 I 01!

•

•

•

0.4r filith-Variftr ftlagazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

VOLUME XII NOVEMBER, 1916 NUMBER 5. II II 111111111 1111

The Pan-Pacific Industrial and Commercial Museum

In Honolulu

1 N HONOLULU the Pan-Pacific

Club has made the beginning of a col-lection that is to be the basis of a Pan-

Pacific Commercial and Industrial Mu-seum. At present the scope includes only samples of the home industries of Hawaii, manufactured or made by the 'people of the different races of the Pacific who are mak-ing their homes in the Hawaiian Islands. Later, it is proposed to erect a Pan-Pacific Building that will house exhibits, not only of the home industries of Hawaii, but of

the wares and manufactured articles that the countries of the Pacific wish to sell to each other, and as sooner or later every great business man, or his representative, passes through Honolulu—the Crossroads of the Pacific—here must eventually be main-tained the great Pan-Pacific Museum of In-dustry, and it should be housed in a build-ing that should stand forth as a Commercial Palace of Peace, where the interests of the Great. Ocean should weld the rages together.

It has long been the intention of the

417

418 THE MID-PACIFIC

The home in Honolulu of the Hands-Around-the-Pacific Movement and the Pan-Pacific Com- mercial and Industrial Museum.

Hands - Around - the-Pacific Movement, of which the Pan-Pacific Club is the local ex-pression in Honolulu, to maintain at the Crossroads of the Pacific, a central organi-zation from whence publications giving in-formation of all Pacific lands might be sent forth, and where in time a college may be founded for the study of Pacific com-merce, and from which might be graduated publicity men who, after serving a few months in the Government Tourist or other official information bureaux of the Pacific lands, might be well equipped mentally to take a post-graduate course around the Great Oman as industrial representatives of particular chambers of commerce desir-ing to extend the trade of their members and to find new outlets for the output of local industries. In other words, this com-mercial college of the Pacific would seek to make the men and races about the Great Ocean realize the immense exchange of

wealth that may be made between and among Pacific lands, an exchange the possi-bilities and ramifications of which are so vast that any sincere, well-directed attempt toward its fulfillment would make, about the Pacific, talk of anything but perpetual peace and prosperity an absurdity that even jingo politicians would not dare indulge in. The men who have preached the Hands-Around-the-Pacific propaganda are sincere. Ex-Governor Walter F. Frear, the presi-dent of the organization, is now in Aus-tralia, explaining the hopes of the proposed Pan-Pacific Exposition of Education to be held in Honolulu in 1919, while the sons of Percy Hunter, the active head of the movement in Australia, are in Honolulu with several young men from other parts of the Great Ocean, forming the nucleus of a Pan-Pacific Commercial College, and assisting in securing and installing the ex-hibits for the Pan-Pacific Commercial Mu-

THE MID-PACIFIC

419

Some of the young students from Pacific countries at work in the rooms' of the Pan-Pacific Club and Industrial Museum in Honolulu.

seum. They will spend a year at this work of the Pan-Pacific Commercial and In- in Hawaii before leaving for Australia, and will return, as a part of their educa-tion, to take an active part in conducting the 1919-1920 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu.

But to return to the Pan-Pacific Com-mercial Museum and its beginnings in Honolulu. The oldest and most progres-sive firm in the Hawaiian Islands, that of Castle & Cooke, Ltd., places for this pur-pose at the disposal of the Pan-Pacific Club, a spacious hall, some hundred by a hundred feet square, above their main offices in the heart of Honolulu, and here is being in-stalled the exhibit that is expected to grow until it becomes the pride of every Pacific land and people, to whom it will belong.

Every visitor to Hawaii passes the cor-ner of Fort and Merchant streets, usually many times a day, and here, one flight up from a wide entrance on Fort, which is Honolulu's main street, is the beginning

dustrial Museum. The Hawaiian Sugar Planters' Experi-

ment Station, the Territorial Board of For-estry and Agriculture, the Federal Experi-ment Station, the Expositions and the Pro-motion committees, provided the first be-ginnings for the home exhibit, and soon the Hawaiians, Portuguese, Chinese, Jap-anese, Koreans, Filipinos, and even the Si-berians resident in the islands began send-ing samples of their handiwork, or some-thing to show the output of small factories or industries they were establishing in Ha-waii, while visitors of many Pacific races came to inquire as to the likelihood of their receiving support and encouragement in the establishment in Hawaii of indus-tries with which they were familiar in the lands of their birth, and so the people born in Hawaii began to take an interest in those who have come, and the•mission of the Pan-Pacific workers spread apace.

420

THE MID-PACIFIC

Exhibits of sugar products and fruits of Hawaii in a section of the Pan-Pacific Commercial and Industrial Museum, Honolulu

Hawaii has developed the most scientific agricultural experiment stations in the world. One of these, a private one, owned by the Hawaiian Sugar Planters' Associ-ation, has men traveling in every part of the world seeking parasites that will des-troy enemies of the sugar cane; and always these men are successful. Nor is it only sugar cane that is protected from insect pests in Hawaii. While one scientist was securing in Central Queensland the para-sites that have driven the leaf-hopper from Hawaii, another scientist from Hawaii was gathering in Central Africa the parasite that has made the Mediterranean fruit-fly a pest of the past in the Hawaiian Islands.

In the Pan-Pacific Commercial Mu-seum, the Hawaiian Sugar Planters' Ex-periment Station staff has installed an ex-hibit not only showing the pests that were once the enemies of the sugar cane in Ha-waii, with is complimentary exhibit of the parasites that exterminated them, but they have placed in position an exhibit that tells

the story of the sugar cane in Hawaii from start to finish. First the samples of dif-ferent Hawaiian soils in which sugar cane will take root are shown, then the fertiliz-ers that are needed by each of these soils to make them most sustaining to the cane,• and even the ingredients of the fertilizers are placed on view in glass bottles and in-telligently labelled, The roots of healthy and unhealthy cane are carefully preserved in formalin for study, and the different root diseases shown and analyzed. Next, scores of the different kinds of sugar cane grown in Hawaii are shown, all properly labelled.. The sugar itself is shown, from the rough extracted juice to the first grades of brown sugar, and on to the finest white clarified article, as it appears on the table. Even the seeds of scores or more legumes, used as rotary crops with cane, are shown and their use explained, while the bagasse, or refuse of the sugar cane itself is shown pressed into the toughest kind of card-board, made into cigar boxes, as well as

111,:it:toicamciocisa mi a E:313E1{Z101111211131E

i511:111111111:111;1112111=3 116111111111tIENNI

THE MID-PACIFIC

421

Life size plaster casts in color of the gorgeous fish of Hawaiian waters, prepared by the Bishop Museum staff and exhibited in the Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum rooms.

other containers, for the manufacture of which it is splendidly adapted.

Comparative sugar exhibits are being gathered from about the Pacific, that the exhibit in this part of the Commercial Museum may be truly Pan-Pacific in its scope.

At present, the Federal Experiment Sta-tion in Honolulu is preparing an exhibit of all of the fruits of Hawaii for the Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum. It will take a year to complete this, but in the meantime hundreds of preserved exhibits, from pineapples that average twenty pounds each, to the rare (in Hawaii) mangosteen, (gathered but from two or three trees in the islands) may be viewed in the jars of formalin that did good service at the main-land expositions where Hawaii was repre-sented.

About these exhibits of the fruits of Ha-waii, are being gathered jars containing the jellies, jams and preserves made from the fruits, while a collection is being made of the wood of each tree to be attached to

the jar containing its fruit. The Hawaiian Board of Forestry has supplied for the Pan-Pacific Industrial Exhibit, more than a hundred samples of Hawaiian natural and introduced commercial woods. These are roughly finished on one side and finely pol-ished on the other,, each with its English, Hawaiian, and scientific name plainly print-ed above each specimen.

In this section are the relief maps of the Hawaiian Islands, made by the pupils of the Territorial Normal School, that are far superior in workmanship and accuracy to those made for the Federal Government by America's trained map-makers.

Here, too, are the wonderfully colored plaster costs of the hundred kinds of gor-geous Hawaiian fish, made up by the staff workers of the Bishop Museum.

It is interesting to note that through the Pan-Pacific Industrial Museum, arrange-ments have been made with the owners of the two or three mangosteen trees that bear in Hawaii to ingraft front these and so seek to distribute the wonderful fruit

422 THE MID-PACIFIC

4 section of the Pan-Pacific Commercial and Industrial Museum showing Hawaiian fruits and plaster cast maps of the islands, made by school children.

tree throughout Hawaii, until the best lo-calities for its propagation may be found, and perhaps a new marketable commodity given to the islands.

In one section of the museum is an ex-hibit of the Herva Mate, or South Ameri-can tea tree, that will evidently grow lux-uriantly in Hawaii, for already several of these trees thirty feet in height are flourish-ing at varying levels near Honolulu, and from these others are being set out.

There is an exhibit in the museum of Hawaiian tobacco, and coincident with its installation, a revival of the tobacco indus-try in Hawaii has taken place. It is through the Pan-Pacific. Commercial Museum that the algaroba seeds are being sent to Aus-tralia, that the algaroba tree, that redeemed the waste lands of Hawaii, may also make of Australian deserts wonderful pasture-lands for horses and cattle that feed and thrive on the bean of the algaroba—the al-garoba, known to Bible students for the husks on *hich the Prodigal Son fed with the swine. Brought from the Holy Land to

Hawaii, it has become there the great fat-tening feed for both swine and cattle, as well as ideal food when crushed into meal for chicken raising.

The Pan-Pacific Museum is a place for study, and the School Board of Hawaii is arranging to send its advanced pupils- to the rooms for a series of lectures on the possible new industries Hawaii can and may create.

Even the Japanese school teachers, and there are many in Hawaii, now make the Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum a part of the study of their annual conventions. The Japanese schools, encouraged by the sam-ples of handiwork of children of all Pacific races to be seen in the museum, now con-template the introduction of manual train-ing classes that the Japanese children in Hawaii may learn the useful decorative arts and handicrafts that have made the Japanese people the wonder of the artistic world. The Koreans are also studying the possibilities of new art industries for their young people and are preparing samples of

THE MID-PACIFIC

423

The nucleus of a collection of Hawaiian paintings in the Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum. D. Howard Hitchcock's island landscapes.

these for exhibition, as are the Filipinos. The Chinese and Japanese of Hawaii are installing exhibits of the industries they have created in the islands, while the Ha-waiians themselves are sending samples of their handiwork in carving the hard native mahogany, the lauhala, or leaf of the pan-danus woven into mats and hats, to say nothing of the feather seed and artificial flower leis, or wreaths, for which they are famous.

From the Hawaiians and Portuguese comes also an exhibit of the wonderful Hawaiian ukulele, the delightful baby guitar, that as the ideal accompanist of the singer, has taken America by storm so that the Hawaiian factories can scarcely keep up with the world demand for the ukulele.

Hawaiian home-made jewelry is shown in the Pan-Pacific Commercial and Indus-trial Museum, as is the jade carving and silver work of the resident Chinese. Even the uses to which the lava of which Ha-waii is formed can be put is shown. There

are exhibits of lava bricks and lava drain pipes, while a local sculptor is moulding from lava dust and cement, columns for building, that exactly represent in color and texture the graceful cocoanut tree trunk.

In the room reserved for Hawaiian paintings the leading artists, resident and visiting from America, Japan and Aus-tralia, exhibit' their handiwork, and already a project is on foot to begin a collection of paintings of Hawaiian men and women as well as a number illustrative of Ha-waiian legends and history that may form the nucleus of a permanent and histori-cal picture gallery of the Hawaiian people.

For the decorations of the hundreds of historical floats in the 1917 Carnival, the making of thousands of native Pacific cos-tumes (of all lands about the ocean) na-tive local talent is being cultivated, and the directors of the Pan-Pacific Industrial Mu-seum are seeking instructors who will teach and train the Hawaiians, Chinese, Japanese, Koreans and Filipinos in Hawaii to create and supply these needs.

424 THE MID-PACIFIC

A corner of the Industrial Museum showing examples of the native and introduced woods in Hawaii, and a part of the working staff.

The Annual Civic Convention at Hilo, Hawaii Plans for Pan-Pacific participation.

A beginning of Pan-Pacific Exposition work has been made at the Crossroads of the Pacific, and at the Annual Civic Con-vention of all progressive Hawaiian or-ganizations, to be held this year in the city of Hilo, on the island of Hawaii, the story of its progress, aims and ambitions will be told by the men of the Pacific races resi-dent in Hawaii. Of this we present an outline as published recently in the "Hono-lulu Star-Bulletin," the leading evening paper of the Territory.

The Hands-Around-the-Pacific movement will be well represented at the Civic Con-vention. The local branch of this ocean-wide organization, the Pan-Pacific Club of Honolulu, will send delegates representing

each and every nation of the Pacific resi-dent in Honolulu, and seven of these will deliver short five-minute addresses telling just what the Club is accomplishing in is different branches of work, here and in ether Pacific lands.

During the hour allotted to the Pan-Pacific workers a brief continued story will be outlined detailing the history of the Hands-Around-the-Pacific Movement as the different Pacific nationalities have taken part in it. Alexander Hume Ford, a leader in the work, will very briefly in-troduce the first speaker, Bont Hunter, a son of the Australian Pan-Pacific leader, Percy Hunter, who has built up the or-ganization south of the line until it num-

THE MID-PACIFIC

425

This shows the handiwork of the Hawaiians, makers of tapa, mat work, leis or necklaces from all kinds of seeds and feathers, and the pheasants of Hawaii.

bers thousands of adherents. Young Hunt-er is now living in Honolulu as a worker in the Pan-Pacific Movement. He will tell the story at Hilo of how the movement was born almost simultaneously in Hawaii and in Australia and how his country has car-ried the work forward.

The story of the Pan-Pacific Club in Honolulu and the work it is accomplishing till be told by one of its earliest and most steadfast adherents, Dr. S. Rhee, the Ko-rean philanthropist. Dr. Rhee has done more than any other man in Hawaii, per-haps, to bring the different Pacific races resident here to a better understanding on which mutual work for each other and for Hawaii may be based.

When the Pan-Pacific Club of Honolulu assumed the responsibilities of the Pan-Pacific Building at San Diego, it was the Filipinos who first gave this project splen-did support, and at the Civic Convention C. C. Ramirez, who recently entertained

the Filipino commissioners here, will tell what Hawaii has done for the advancement of the brotherhood of the Pacific movement in securing the co-operation of the Pacific lands in the San Diego plan to have all the races of the Pacific work together to draw the people of other countries toward the greatest of oceans, where lies the future theatre of the world's commerce.

The beginning, accomplishments and am-bitions of the Pan-Pacific Commercial and Industrial Museum in Honolulu will be outlined for the nativeborn Hawaiians by Akaiko Akana, who has represented his people in this work since its inception. This museum, now being filled with the handi-work of all Pacific peoples resident in Ha-waii, invites the co-operation of those from the other islands and will be formally open-ed shortly after the Civic Convention, al-though it has been doing quiet and effective work, of which Mr. Akana will tell, for some time past.

-06 THE MID-PACIFIC

This is a portion of the Hawaiian section in the Pan-Pacific Building in San Diego, the exhibits will be returned to the Pan-Pacific Museum in Honolulu.

The Japanese delegate of the Pan-Pa-cific Club to the Civic Convention, A. K. Ozawa, the lawyer, will most fittingly tell in choice English, of which he is master, of the large part this organization will take in conducting the Mid-Pacific Carnival of 1917. The Japanese activities have in pre-vious carnivals proved the striking and at-tractive feature and with Japan joining hands with Hawaii and all other Pacific lands to present at the 1917 Mid-Pacific Carnival a historical pageant of floats that will wonderfully tell the story of Pacific progress, a splendid, artistic success should be the result, and Mr. Ozawa can best tell how this co-operation will be cemented by his people, who have always been leading supporters It the Pan-Pacific Movement in Hawaii.

It is a striking coincidence that the 25th of September, the last day of the Civic Convention, is the anniversary of the dis-covery of the Pacific Ocean by Balboa, a day now celebrated around the ocean in hon-or of its Latin discoverer as Pan-Pacific Day, and it is eminently fitting that EditOr M. G. Santos of the Potuguese paper in Hawaii, should be the Pan-Pacific delegate who will tell the gathering at Hilo how the growth of this movement to honor Bal-boa's discovery spread in every direction from Hawaii, where Queen Liliuokalani re-sumed her ancient throne for an hour to inaugurate this Latin day on the Pacific. R. K. Bonine has supplied the Pan-Pacific Club with the motion films showing the re-ception at the Palace last year when the children of every nationality about the

THE MID-PACIFIC

427

The Filipino section of the Pan-Pacific Building in San Diego, a magnificent display, a part of which it is hoped will come to the Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum in Honolulu.

Great Ocean marched with their flags to present them to Hawaii's Queen, that she might turn them over to the Pan-Pacific Club. If possible, these films will be run during the convention.

Last but not least of the Pan-Pacific five-minute speakers will be William Yap Kwai Fong, representing the Chinese of this territory, who were the first to offer to erect at their own expense a main build-ing on the grounds of the proposed 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu. Since then many Pacific lands have officially asked for further information and some have of-fered hearty co-operation. This and the co-operation likely from the different races in Hawaii will be the outline of Mr. Fong's brief talk on the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposi-tion.

Meetings are being held at the Pan-Pa-cific rooms, the speakers will so adjust their remarks that they will fit in with one an-other's, and in the total not consume more than an hour in the delivery.

The work of the Trail and Mountain Club will be reviewed as a part of the Pan-Pacific work, a paragraph being given to its foundation of home or outdoor work in Hawaii, its successful weekly outing trips and excursions around Oahu, and to the ether islands as well as the trails it has cut.

In fact, the entire Pan-Pacific series of talks will be along the line of voluntary promotion work for Hawaii. Other Pan-Pacific delegates besides the speakers will attend the Civic Convention, and these will carefully study the proceedings, as it is proposed to hold at least one Pan-Pacific

428 THE MID-PACIFIC

mass meeting in Hilo during convention week. At this meeting there will be speeches in Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Fili-pino, Hawaiian and Portuguese. Each speaker is expected to tell the people of his race in Hilo just what the convention stands for toward civic betterment and how the several races may help to forward the movement. A unique feature will be the method of translating each address so that it will simultaneously reach all of the mixed audience. The several nationalities will be seated together in different parts of the big hall and each group will have its own in-terpreter, so that after the speaker has fin-ished in separate parts of the hall, surround-ed by his own 'people, the Hawaiian, Jap-anese, Korean, Filipino, Chinese and Portu-

guese interpreter will arise and interpret into his own language for his own people.

The interest of the Pan-Pacific workers in the Civic Convention will not end with their departure from Hilo, for a postponed Balboa Day banquet will be held in Hono-lulu on the evening of September 26th on the return of the delegates. At this Pan-Pacific banquet, held either in the armory or in the games hall of the Y. M. C. A., it is expected that several hundred people

of Pacific races will be present to hear what

the speakers from the Hilo meetings have

to tell them about the Civic Convention

and the part they are expected to play in

making Hawaii a better place to litre in be-cause they are making it their home.

A Hawaiian Corner

•

One of the Trail and Mountain Club auto busses used for its week-end trips to the mountains of Oahu.

a

The Trail and Mountain Club of Hawaii and Its Part In the Pan-Pacific Movement

THE Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club has its headquarters in the Pan-Pacific rooms and the two or-

ganizations work together to give practical knowledge of the islands to those who visit them for information.

The Trail and Mountain Club has been invited to join the American Mountaineers Clubs of North America, with central in-formation offices at 476 Fifth Avenue, New York, and it is with pleasure that the Club gives such an organization its co-operation and support, furthermore it seems an oppor-tune time that the Trail and Mountain Club of Hawaii invite all the mountain climbing and trail clubs of Pacific lands to unite with it in establishing an information

library and bureau at the Crossroads of the Pacific, where knowledge may be had of any outing organization in any Pacific coun-try, and to act perhaps as a clearing house that a member of one Pacific outing or mountain climbing organization may become automatically a visiting member of any other similar Pacific organization, should he travel to other lands than his own. In a similar manner any of the members of any branch of the Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America might, when contemplating a visit to Pacific lands, secure temporary membership in the Mountaineering Clubs of the Pacific. Correspondence on this sub-ject is solicited and the Trail an Mountain Club stands ready to provide free head-

429

430 THE MID-PACIFIC

quarters and central service to its kindred and sister organizations in Pacific lands.

The Trail and Mountain Club of Ha-waii has cut many miles of trails in the mountains about Honolulu and on other parts of the island of Oahu, and has ready for the press a splendid contour map of this region, showing all of the available trails. This map has taken a number of engineers several years to perfect.

On the island of Maui at one of the Civic Conventions the Trail and Mountain Club started a movement and subscription that resulted in the erection of a splendid rest house, 10,000 feet above sea level, on the rim of Haleakala, the world's largest and most wonderful quiescent crater. It, through the early numbers of the "Mid- Pacific Magazine," first organized and mooted the project of creating a National Park of Kilauea, on the island of Hawaii, earth's largest active volcano, and now that this has been accomplished contemplates the erection of a rest house where the tramper may for his two shillings, or fifty cents, secure a meal or a night's lodging. At the last Civic Convention held on the island of Kauai, the Trail and Mountain Club offered to build a rest house on the edge of Waimea Canyon, the only rival in the world to the painted canyons of Arizona, and so soon as the Kauai Chamber of Com-merce secures the needed site, the work will be carried to completion.

The Trail and Mountain Club has sev-eral times chartered steamers for excursions to the sister islands of the group, sending hundreds of eager trampers to climb the wonder mountains of Maui and Kauai. Efforts are being made to regularly charter a steamer for monthly mountaineering trips, and on the island of Oahu, every week end the Trail and Mountain motor busses carry scores and sometimes hundreds of eager outdoor enthusiasts to localities where they may give vent to their desires for mountain climbing. •

The membership of the Trail and Moun-tain Club is not so large as that of other

kindred organizations for the reason that the dues of five dollars a year would never begin to pay the expenses of cutting trails and keeping them in order, to say nothing of building rest houses, and as everyone enjoys the privileges of the trails, rest houses and excursions, whether or not he is a member of the Trail and Mountain Club, there is no mad rush to secure membership, although almost anyone in Honolulu or Ha-waii is glad to contribute his dues and be-come a supporting member. It takes time and energy, however, to round up new members, and it takes the dues of so many members to cut a new trail that a simpler method is in vogue. When a new trail is needed, it is projected, named after a prom-inent citizen of means, and he is notified that it is his duty to pay all expenses of building the trail named in his honor and that after it is once completed, the Trail and Mountain Club will see that it is kept in order. This is done by the Boy Scouts, they being notified which particular patri-otic citizen will pay them for their work, with the understanding that the money goes toward the equipment expenses of the troop of Boy Scouts that actually clears the trail and puts it in order.

There are probably one hundred different and distinct mountain trails on the island of Oahu, so that nearly every well-to-do lover of the outdoor life has an opportuni-ty to help along the Boy Scout movement, and to keep the trails in good shape for the trampers who came to Hawaii from every quarter of the globe.

There are officers of the Trail and Mountain Club who have spent thousands of dollars cutting trails and building rest houses, all to promote a healthy indulgence of outdoor life—there are other officers now spending their thousands for the construc-tion of new mountain trails in Hawaii, while there are still others who will do their share in this good work as soon as they are properly approached, and they will be.

Sometimes the Pan-Pacific Club finds a

THE MID-PACIFIC

431

In the Waianae Mountains of Oahu, a climb of 4000 feet in three hours from the auto bus.

patron who will pay for a new trail to be built, and then it may be the junior Chi-nese, Japanese, or Filipino branch of this organization that cuts the trail, using the funds earned for the good of its particu-lar work in hand. Throughout the plans of the two organizations the desire to be of service to others is never lost sight of. The Trail and Mountain Club desires to be of service to its sister organizations on the mainland, it also wishes to serve those that are existing in every Pacific land, and therefore invites them to affiliate as an as-sociation of Trail and Mountain Climbing Clubs of the Pacific, the Trail and Moun-tain Club of Hawaii gladly affiliates with the American organization, and will equal-ly welcome a similar Pan-Pacific Associ-ation of clubs, in the hope that when this is

brought about it may exchange its litera-ture and information with the American body, and cordially invite every member of every American mountaineering club to visit the lands of the Pacific as the guests of the mountain climbing clubs in the lands washed by its waters.

The Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club solicits correspondence with kindred organizations in Pacific lands, the move-ment towards mutual co-operation and a better knowledge of each other's lands is a splendid one for the Pan-Pacific outing

organizations to take up. America has set

an excellent practical example. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, therefore,

let us show our sincerity by imitating and

by co-operating.

•

432 THE MID—PACIFIC

A Solomon Islander and his canoe.

(THE LOG OF THE SNARK)

Solomon Island Days Celebrating the Glorious Fourth among cannibals and cannibals.

By CHARMIAN KITTREDGE LONDON

Wednesday, July 1, 1908.

ejACK is so improved that we have been jubliant today. There was more trad-ing in the forenoon—Jack has not

written these Port Mary mornings, because it is such a rich opportunity for curios; and Martin and I labeled the things and sorted them for packing.

Wada reported, concerning his wash-day ashore: "Those girl no like Papeete wa-hine—no hair on head no good sing, no good that monkey-talk English."

Henry and Tehei rowed over to join some natives who were dynamiting fish, and brought back a few plump and tooth-some mullet; but Henry shook his head por-tentously, and explained:

"Never I see such t'ing. Dynamite go, fish stun, I grab fish, shark he come quick —like that—and take fish right out of my hand. No more for me!"

It is true—the harbor sharks, instead of fleeing at the detonation, know it as a dinner gong, and gather to dispute the feast.

" Copyrighted by Author. 433

434 THE MID

Peter and Tomi, our two villainous but obliging colleagues, got up a big dance ashore, and thither we went after dinner, laden with a sack of prizes. It was a very pompous affair, with a bevy of dancers, and quite an orchestra of heathenish wooden in-struments. The performers started in two long lines from a weather-beaten carved pillar, then moved around the clacking, in-toning orchestra in opposite circling rings. The figures were much the same as yester-day's but more elaborate. The dancers were all gay with cocoanut foliage and flow-ers, beautifully disposed in girdles, armlets, garters, and wreaths for their heads. The steps are very like those of the Igorrotes. Jack and I sat and watched and dreamed, and laughed at the frolicsome bronze pick-aninnies and were glad we were alive.

After the distribution of presents we re-turned along the sylvan palmy path to Tom Butler's, where we paid him our farewell call. There is not much left of the old man, but what there is left is all good. and he has been more than kind to us. His last words to us were :

"Now you'll see Jack at Ugi. My word, but he'll give you a good time—plenty of milk—he's got cows, you know, and better bullamacow than yours. Good luck to you—" and he waved his live hand.

"Bullamacow" means beef. It is sur-mised that when the first bull and cow were brought to the islands, they were intro-duced as "a bull and a cow." Ugi, Solomon Islands,

Thursday, July 2, 1908. This has been one long day of nature

and human interest, with the ever-present spice of anticipatory danger from earth and its inhabitants. We have not apprehended the latter very much ; what most worries is the unreliableness of reef-charting, and uncertainty of nature in the matter of tides and currents. The Solomons stretch north-west and southeast for over a thousand miles, with an area of 15,000 square miles —more than twice the area of Wales. There are nearly a dozen principal islands

-PACIFIC

and a host of lesser ones. And in this long tangle of islands great and small, weather conditions and all other conditions are such that it would seem that if a man could sail safely through them, he could sail anywhere.

Jack was called at 5:30 this morning, and before Martin had coaxed the engine to work we were half out of the reef pas-sage under sail and, once clear of Port Mary, picked up a good breeze which they call the Southwest Monsoon. It is stimu-lating to sail before a wind with a name like that!

We breakfasted on pigeon•and mullet, while engine and wind swept us along the green coast of San Christoval. Ugi, which is the larger of two, called the Isles du Golfe, lies to the north about midway of the big island, and we wanted to make it before dark. Night sailing hereabout is very undesirable. All of us were unremit-tingly on the lookout for rocks and shoals and reefs, and we saw them a-plenty. There was black weather ahead for a while, ugly squalls with whipped-white seas, and San Christoval was swathed in dun clouds. As the day cleared and clouds lifted and mel-ted away in the sunshine, the island showed a kingdom of hills and mountains, billow-ing and jutting up from the water's edge to over 4000 feet, the mist-wreathed val-leys looping garland-wise among climbing green peaks that "stood up like the throne of kings." There was a savage royal beauty about the land, as the clouds tore apart from the face of it—"Ramparts of slaughter and peril, blazing, amazing, aglow."

Henry has learned who it is we quote so often, and this morning remarked sagely:

"That man Kipling he good—he know things."

By noon all was veiled in mist and rain again, which in turn cleared away from the water's edge, lifting, lifting, like a slow curtain, revealing tier upon tier of rounded woody hills.

After dinner Ugi showed up ahead like

THE MID-PACIFIC 435

a little blue velvet hat on the water, its top being flattened, and we made out some dots of islets on the starboard bow—the Three Sisters. We glow with pleasure and reassurance when we can positively iden-tify any landmark.

About the middle of the afternoon we discovered a whaleboat coming toward us from the mainland and presently wel-comed aboard Frederick A. Drew, mission-ary of the Melanesian Society, Church of England. Whalers once frequented the harbor of Makira on the western side of San Christoval, but now, on all this isl-and, seventy-six miles long by twenty-three at the widest, Frederick Drew and one trader, Larry Keefe, are the only white men. Mr. Drew was a picture standing in the boat as she neared, rowed by three handsome San Christoval mission boys. He is the slight, strong, blond type of wiry young English rover who has enough grit to go anywhere and do anything. He met us with frank blue eyes and friendly smile and immediately he stepped aboard everybody was laughing in the best of fel-lowship because he wore the familiar badge of Melanesia—a white rag about the shin. Promptly arose a discussion between him and Martin as to the best cures, Mr. Drew backing Jack on corrosive sublimate, and Martin arguing for blue-stone, probably thinking it more efficacious because of its exceeding painfulness.

Mr. Drew's three black youths are beau-ties, with soft, shy manners and chastened sweet expressions on pleasant-featured faces. One of them, with a strikingly Egyptian profile, wears a little crucifix "to keep a man from harm." I wonder what the foreign talisman really means to him.

Of course we had them all aboard—the black boys taking turns steering the whale-boat, which we towed. Mr. Drew showed us to the best anchorage off Ete Ete, the native village, and we shall celebrate the Fourth of July with a general try-out of our guns, hoping for a salutary effect upon the Ugi inhabitants, for the other side of

the small island is people by the Malaitans, who have killed many traders at Ugi. The long-ago first labor-trade ship that visited Ugi, the Colleen Baum, disappeared there. In justice to the Ugians, however, the crew got no more than they deserved, for the do-ings of the slave-traders were not nice and pretty.

"Jack," alas! was not "at Ugi," but Mr. Manse! Hammond, an Australian, was, and a good sort we found him, plucky fellow. We had him and Mr. Drew for supper, and kept them painting local color until after dark. "Jack," whose other name is Larken, has only escaped probable butchery, like his predecessors "at Ugi," to go away somewhere to die of heart disease, taking his native wife and half-caste child with him. Perhaps Tom Butler may pass quietly away without ever knowing. Half dead as he is, I am thinking the one thing that could hurt him would be to know of mis-fortune to his Jack at Ugi. On the other hand, so godlike to him is Jack at Ugi, that he might believe no mortal tale con-cerning him! Ugi, Fourth of July, 108.

We haled forth every dispensable bot-tle, match-box, piece of cardboard, cocoa-nut shell and went at a demonstration of markmanship that ought to make us tabu from any "monkeying" in these parts. Mausers, automatic rifles, Colt's pistols, Smith & Wesson's revolvers, and Mr. Ham-niond's Sniders, all proved whether or not they were rusty.

Mr. Hammond keeps us supplied with generous gallons of fresh milk, rich and spicy-flavored, white-man's vegetables, and papaias and limes. We have him to all meals, and yesterday morning went ashore with him. Ete Ete village is off to the right of the well-kept, white-painted trad- ing station on stilts, with a score of enor- mous bulls and cows browsing near by in long, lush grasses. We found the native houses similar but superior to those at Port Mary, and the natives generall7 of a bet-ter class. All the "boys" look young, as

436 THE MID-PACIFIC

if they had stopped aging at twenty—until they are very old. It is hard to tell a youth of twenty-one from a man of forty.

The old chief, Ramana, is a character. He told me with cackling glee and horrible grimaces of the numerous white men he had killed in his day, when "him fella white man gammon along him fella mouth too much." But . you cannot get any of them to admit they have "kai-kai'd" human flesh. They know our abhorrence of the practice, and look sheepish and silly when asked directly. My introduction to old Ramana was unexpected and rather start-ling. I approached the little canoe which he was hauling out on the beach, and took hold of the carved prow to examine its carving. The slender curve broke off in my hands, and I jumped at the grunt the old man let out. But he laughed at me—women are foolish cattle anyhow, he thinks, I must not shake his sacred hand (goodness knows I am not anxious!) for he is tabu to the touch of the lesser animals.

We visited the old rascal in his house, almost as big and imposing as a Port Mary canoe house, and upheld by similarly wrought hardwood posts. Jack bargained with him through Mr. Hammond for eight of these pillars, for they are magnificent curios—the figures Egyptian in effect, the carving wonderfully good. One represents a man sitting on the tips of a shark's open jaws, the square, well-carved hands resting on his knees. One old god laughably re-sembles our Dantesque poet friend, George Sterling.

Ramana wanted spot cash silver shillings for his goods, and his hoarse "whispered asides" to the trader, to put up prices and protect him, were very human indeed. He was well pleased with seven shillings for five of the posts, and I forget what we paid for the other three, one of which Mar-tin spoke for. There were several less or-nate poles in the building, with capitals half Gothic and some nearly Doric. But we had to.consider our already crowded space aboard, and reluctantly turned to

smaller curiosities such as calabashes, nose-rings, bracelets and kai-kai spoons that looked like beautiful shoe-horns of turtle shell, nautilus and mother-of-pearl.

Ramana led us through quite a maze of little streets into a mysterious, dusky, musty old ruin, and, when we got used to the un-windowed gloom, we made out, high on a shelf, an enormous black calabash with scrolled ends. They lifted it down, in a rain of dust and crawly things, and it was big enough to hold a whole roast man—and 'probably had done so on more than one grisly occasion. But it was so very ancient that it fell into pieces when we turned it about. I was very loath to give it up, but Jack convinced me of the futility of getting it home in any kind of shape. I was com-forted when Ramana found another half as big and in good preservation.

At every cross street in Ete Ete stands a tall kingpost, brown and weather-beaten, with an image on it. One of these has a most unusual face, composed entirely of scrolls—like an English judge with his Wig over his face.

In some houses it was explained to us, each supporting post is owned by a different "boy." I shall always be wondering how long it will take for old Ramana's depleted palace to collapse.

Plaited glass bracelets decorated the eaves of one dilapidated roof. Everything is falling into decay and disuse, and many of the places are empty, for the people are dying off slowly but steadily. There are few children born, and most of these have dreadful perforating sores. We saw one pretty baby sitting, actually sitting, on but-tocks that were nearly corroded off with running corruption. It turned whimpering from us on the high platform under the eaves and crawled away, and, as like as not, a healthy native was soon sitting in the filthy, infectious spot.

A scant few of the natives have soft brown hair, like the girl on Santa Anna. The women here at Ugi wear a long chemise-like garment, and are otherwise

THE MID-PACIFIC 437

much the same in type as the Port Mary ones.

The village must have been very beau-tiful in its heydey, with its king-posted cor-ners and handsome thatched houses. And there is a thatched fence inclosing the vill-age, over which one goes on stiles made of logs. Men have their dogs here, too, a sneaking breed, resembling the "dingo" of Australia, and looking to us like our Cali-fornia coyote.

We dipped a little way into the woods, which were very lovely, all lighted up with red and yellow flowered trees and warm like a conservatory, with little lizards rust-ling the stillness as they darted across the paths and up the viney tree trunks.

It the afternoon of yesterday, Mr. Ham-mond took us fish-dynamiting around a point of the island. We rowed in a painted world of water and sky, the emerald and sapphire deeps so clear we could see the shadowy white sand below, and uprising from its entrancing coral gardens — great hummocks of flowered color, brown with blue tips, red and yellow. Some of the bunches spread as high as forty feet from the bottom. Sometimes the forms branched, and sometimes grew in mushroom shapes. In the lovely opal spaces between and un-derneath, all sorts of brilliant colored fish hung or darted about as,we stirred the sur-face. One expected golden-haired mermaids to swim out in the tinted underglooms of the coral.

Today, after our noisy forenoon, we have traded peacefully on deck, the natives bring-ing out things they learned yesterday would tempt us. We have more of the Rubiana bracelets, and a couple of exquisitely fine basket-rings from the Santa Cruz Islands.

Jack is happy over a myriad of beautifully wrought pearl-shell fish-hooks, great and small, and we have packed them into carved boxes of wood and etched bamboo, with sliding tops. These boxes are used for lime, which the natives carry and eat fre-quently. We saw one or two doing this at Port Mary, too.

Jack has traded my much-jeered-at Apian lava-lava, the snaky horror of undulating colored lines, to a tall fellow who went over-rail into his canoe and put it on in place of the dingy small-cloth, hung back and front, in which he came aboard. He holds the new lava-lava in place by a broad thin hip-band of shiny bark that makes him look like a bronze figure with a metal girtle close welded.

Some of the men are pot-bellied and un-lovely of line, and some are degenerate of feature, with small heads and receding chins with hollows underneath. But these are offset by many fine specimens. One of them stood at the bow of a whaleboat, tall, lusterless black, supple, poised with a stick of dynamite in his hand, and we pleasured in the grace and precision of him in the throwing and the perfectness of his dive after the gleaming white-and-silver fish that popped to the surface after the detonation.

When our guests were gone this even-ing and the crew were breathing deep in slumber on the deck amidship, Jack and I stole aft and sat on the rail in the starred darkness of sky and water—just sat and talked low of the romance of the adven-ture of "Man, the most unseaworthy of all the earth brood," and we joyed quietly in our own fortune that we care for "the old trail, the out trail, our own trail," that calls us over the world."

•

•

■■• •:*

4 :4

7 t

. ....;

4., ,...

4 't •

-, .4

4. 4. (

1 I 4110

14M

1Mir.

......-

. „..44„

, •• ,

...,.. ,,

, ,..,,

... „.

.., ,,... ,,, ,,,

,,,„„ .

. , T

tam,

x .

* . e

M

. '

44.

0; ,

t 'Y IP 4

1-:

L.L1

11 111

'''' ''''.

'''''

''' al

likr

t, . '

''.

-- "-4,1

74 11M

44' ‘

1 , :::'• .

t '" t

/ 3'' '

'''?

; , 4:

: '' -

'2 11.11 1-: 4 4

164*4

6*(11

:t

'k:Iri 1

' -•, ':i

r ) \77

a7

lit:4

■V't-.-t' N'

S ;':1:

. '

1.' 4.' "7:

::- ' '' '' '.- 4 -

'

sf(", , ,,t

. ,tf ' ' ' '' ,

' ;'' .

: i;;

'

; 7.

.11.-

--041

1112A

Z -7a

a,

,,.

..4. '.

4M

, ;: i

, .

.

i :.,..

- ,

, .

4444,„,

4

1

4 ,..,:vi.

..V

II /

t .

. t :t -

,411■1

). ,

' ' ' - .1'

; ': ''' ''' '' ''''''' ''''

; 4:4•;'-ti '

'. 'el..14

' 7 ;

44 ■

. R

,

. ' -

,4',-

. 4.4

y -$; '

'1̀ .s. -.'

" ,-

- :s.. -.• '

::.i',1 '.:', "

"*. za: ',-

. .i., '

-

...

.

A

,... . I

N

KO

KU

BRI

DG

E,

C)S

AK

A,

In T

oky

o, Y

oko

ham

a a

nd O

saka

, t

he

brid

ges

affo

rd t

he

mos

t de

lig

htf

ul s ee

n a

tit

s be

st.

beJastp

anes

e lif

e. H

ere t

he

'ric

ksha r

eig

ns s

upr

eme

Jap

an

i a

nd p

ictu

resq

ue

apa

n s s

n

438 THE MID-PACIFIC

In Toyko and Yokohama where "Imerican and Japanese architecture are struggling for supremacy.

From Yokohama to Tokio The editor of "T. K. K. Topics" describes in a most interesting manner this short

railway journey.

By HARVEY L. MILLER

AT THE Yokohama railroad station our trusty 'ricksha man set us down, bewildered. From here we are to

take train for the city of Tokio, capital of Japan.

At the stone front of the modern depot a porter with red cap and brass buttons rings a heavy bell, swinging it back and forth vigorously in both hands.

The platform is crowded with busy little

pally Si _rye j, .uatuom pun uaw umorq with the faint aroma of the ever present Japanese cigarette. Wooden clogs ring out their merry song on the stone flagging.

A Japanese youth passes carrying his wizened old mother on his back. Serious-eyed children in brightly colored 'kimonos stare at the "wonderful steam train," quite like children of any other country coming down to the depot at train time.

At the curbing under the telegraph poles

439

440 THE MID -PACIFIC

the chattering risksha coolies squat, play-ing "go" on the flat stones on a square scratched on the pavement.

Across the street from the station mer-chants sit on their spotless mats behind paper shoji, the ever present fire bowl glow-ing close at hand.

We enter the spacious little railway coaches. The road is narrow gauge and the seats run the length of the car. The shrill piping of a horn starts us Tokio-ward.

Near us sits an elderly Japanese lady in dove colored silk; next to her a maiden of perhaps eighteen in a kimono of deep pur-ple and a gold brocade "obi." Across the car a dignified old gentleman with heavy rimmed spectacles produces from his girdle a black lacquered case and a thin red pipe with a tiny silver bowl at the end. A flat box yields a pinch of tobacco as fine as snuff. This he rolls into a small ball the size of a pea, places it carefully in the little bowl and begins to smoke. Each puff is inhaled with a lingering inspiration and emitted slowly in a thin curdling cloud. Three puffs and the tiny smoke is exhausted. He taps the pipe gently against the edge of the seat and neatly tucks it back into his girdle. Then he settles down to a quiet doze. For him there is nothing new in the beautiful scenery flitting by.

Three students, in school uniform of dark blue, studded with bright buttons sit in a row in each end of the coach. Each wears a gilt cherry blossom on his cap. Near them sits another venerable old gentleman, in horn spectacles, reading a newspaper. He has with him a little boy in clogs; the clogs hanging from the thong between his toes, the sleeves of his kimono holding sev-eral bundles.

The train stops at a suburb of Yokohama and guards call out in gutturals the name of the station, their voices dwelling in a long drawl on the last syllable. Just out-side the station's whitewashed fence a clump of factory chimneys spouts pitchy smoke

into the sky, while the descending sun glis-tens on a monster water tank.

Farther away, behind neatly clipped hedges, lie thatched roofs, appearing as soft as mole skins. Multi-colored wild flow-ers grow on the ridges. Bamboo clumps soar above, their palms waving like pale green feathers, yellowing at the tips. Through the open window drifts the treble note of a girl's voice in song.

A runner passes through the coach leav-ing a trail of circulars advertising a health resort in the mountains.

In the distance are grey and green hills, studded with truck farms (seemingly stand-ing on edge) and clumps of trees. On the distant waters we see the sails of a few home-coming vagrant sampans.

On the road passing the station we hear the "tap-tap" of a blind "amma;" as he passes along he sounds on his flute, from time to time, a shrill double note. "A loud whistle, a banging of doors, and we are again on our way. The grey roofs fall away. A large stately manufacturing building, frowning down on a tiny flowered tea-house, becomes a blur in the distance.

On one side the steel railroad tracks nearly dip into the bay. Wild ducks, fright-ened by the "choo-choo" of the engine, scurry across the water. On a sand bar a flock of grey and white gulls disport them-selves, while a dozen naked urchins splash merrily ,about an anchored fishing sampan.

away way across the inlet we can barely make out the farther shore, a hazy outline of violet and blue. The train now rounds grassy hills, terraced in gardens to the very tops. Flowering camelia trees and smaller shrubs draw lengthening grey shadows. A high trestle spans acres of growing fruit. Across the orchards are the vague outlines of bluish hills, capped by the snowy peak of old Fuji, the king of mountains.

We flash over flooded rice fields, laid out like gigantic crazy, checker-boards. The evening air is musical with the lowing chorus of frogs. Shades of golden light play over the marshes of rice. On the nar-

THE MID-PACIFIC 441

row curving partitions between the squares round stacks of straw stand erect. Here peasants are at work with their various quaint tools, clad in blue and white with white cloths about their heads; some with red girdles or sashes. Here and there, stripped to the thighs, a man or boy treads the water wheel between the terraced levels. This is the ancient Nipponese irrigation system.

Occasionally we pass little hillocks hold-ing a single twisted tree, near a carved tablet erected to some Shinto divinity. We pass a steep bluff sheltering a tiny shrine of wood.

All along the route glittering canals draw shining reins through the rice paddies, while little flocks of birds dart hither and thither.

We pass small neat stations with their white signboards, continually reminding us of the link connecting active, modern Japan with Nippon, the picturesque Fairyland. On the signs appear the names of the sta-tions in both Japanese and English.

On a sloping hill of glowing green we see the peaked roofs of clustered temples, the shrine of some century-dead saint. This modern, twentieth century train is gliding through old, old Japan. In these hills the ancient legends have had their birth. Tales of the two-sworded "sumarai," or swagger-ing bandits and pleasure-seeking "shogun," of tea house "geishas" who danced their way into "daimyo's" palace.

In the West the sun is declining toward a jagged range of hills, their tops pale as milk, their bases melting into the ebony of the dark forests below. The plain below is of purple with slashes of red earth can-yons. The farther range seems a part of a painted curtain. High above a milky cloud floats, curling like a ribbon about the crest of Fujiyama; Fujiyama calmly keeping watch through the mysterious blue over the Land of the Mikado.

We glimpse the very spirit of scenic

beauty between the shadows of pine and camphor groves, between tiled and latticed walls and thatched temples, between flights of gray pigeons and spirits of cherry blos-soms.

The pines bow rhythmically, while the water wheels turn merrily in the furrows. The green of the bamboo, the purple of the hills, the pink of the cherries, the dark olive of the hedges, flash by like a beautiful panorama of strange and wonderful tapes-try. The contrasts are wonderful. The spell of Japan is upon us. We hear the call of Nippon across the gorgeous land-scape, from every rift and crevice, from the moist soil, from the rich red earth, from the green foliage, from the springing groves of bamboo, from the cardinal glory of camelias comes the call, and we rise to answer it—The Call of Japan!

The slowing of the train wakens us from our reverie. The fields are gone now and , the train rumbles along a canal of old Tokio, teeming with progress and energy. Level with the paper shoji of little bird-cage houses the laden sampans pass on-ward.

Beyond it Tokio's sea of roofs; swelling gray billows of tiling, with here and there black chimneys reaching skyward like masts on sunken ships. A leafy hill rises nearby with a many cornered stqne tower showing above the foliage. Crowds circle about it, dotted black against the bronze sky.

The train enters Shimbashi Station. A crowd of kimono'd Japanese smile the usual Japanese welcome upon us. The station opens on to a broad square, bordered with canals and lined with rickshas, In the dis-tance we see busy streets, lined with mod-ern shop fronts. It is growing dark and the lights begin to flash on, showing us modern lighted thoroughfares, with crowds bustling along the sidewalks and trolley cars clang-ing to and fro beneath a maze of telegraph wires. We are now in Tokio ; Tokio the ancient and beautiful—Tokio the progres- sive and ambitious. •

•

Along the windward coast of Molokai are precipices thousands of feet high, rising sheer from the sea, and communication from valley to

valley may be made only along the face of these in boats, and often the boat trips are thrilling.

442 "I AIE MID-PACIFIC

•

The sampan of Hawaiian waters.

Windward Molokai The story of a sampan trip.

By KENNETH P. EMORY

ONE quiet Sunday, long before sun-up, we churned out of the harbor at Honolulu, soon to break the gen-

tle swells of the Pacific. An ideal night indeed ! Moonlight, calm and cool, with a few fleecy trade-wind clouds scattered around the horizon.

Our Japanese sampan bucked the waves gracefully, parting the water for sixty-two feet, and shot us along at a steady eight miles an hour. The trades blew in our faces and occasionally sent fine spray over the bow. Hardly an hour had sped when we passed Diamond Head, and our course lay out before us, dim in the moonlight.

We cleared Makapuu's beacon. Another hour lapsed, when the East began to show

life and light, and 'twas not many minutes before the welcome sun burst forth in a sea of gold. Molokai's sun-kissed peaks sharpened before us; Maui showed up, the crater of Haleakala clearly outlined though eighty miles away, and on Oahu the trees could still be distinguished.

Snap! went one of our trolling lines, and everyone on board was over his dozing and dreaming. But the fish gave us but a gleam of his belly, for the hook broke with hardly twelve feet of line left.

We basked in the warm rays as our little sampan skipped merrily along. Molokai became plainer and plainer, while the haze and clouds were fast hiding th‘ other isl-ands. Soon we could see the surf beating

443

444 THE MID -PACIFIC

fountains of spray as it dashed and foamed against the cliffs on the windward side of the island—honey-combed cliffs, over-topped by brown, scraggly grass and sickly shrubs.

Molokai is an oblong island, some forty miles in length, and ten miles in breadth, with its extremities rising into two mount-ain passes. The commonly called "west end," first met from Honolulu, consists of rolling hills, rising but a few hundred feet above sea level. This section is ex-ceedingly dry and barren, but the keawe, or algaroba tree thrives well here, and is spreading with great rapidity; its thorny thickets furnished shelter, and its juicy pods food for cattle and the sportive little Japanese, deer. The other end rolls up in graceful waves to several thousand feet, in-tercepted here and there with deep gulches, and ends in abrupt precipices and deep-cut gorges, clothed in the richest vegetation, in which the trade-wind clouds and the moist air from off the ocean is caught.

About nine o'clock we made out a neck of land, perhaps two miles long, that shot out from the shore line at the base of an enormous pall or precipice. Nestling here, a few galvonized roofs glistened in the sun.

We were nearing Kalaupapa, the famous leper colony of Molokai, fifty-two miles from Honolulu. Skimming along at our steady rate, the buildings, trees, inhabitants and all became distinct, and with a clat-tering of the anchor, our boat came to rest fifty yards from the shore.

Before us lay a beautiful village, with a church, store house, post office, etc. in neat red and green, canopied with the spreading limbs of trees which extended down to the wide coral beach. A place where "every prospect pleases, and only man is vile." Kalaupapa is isolated from our world by the sea on three sides, and an enormous pall (precipice) effectually walls up the remaining side.

Our Hale boat was dropped over the side, and propelled ashore by a sweeper.

Landing was not such a simple matter as it at first appeared. The boat waited for a subsiding of the small breakers that played before the entrance, and then made a dash for it, gliding into a tiny cove that set out at an acute angle from the shore. Returning, the boat brought the author and authoress, Jack London and his wife, who were to accompany us from here.

As we skirted the peninsula and finally rounded it, our view opened into the most magnificent, wild, and tropical scenery I ever hope to scan. Cliffs, several thousand feet high; promontories, bold and razor-edged; deep gorges rushing down to the sea, all in the wildest confusion, and cover-ed with a beautiful mantle of variegated green, except where the cliffs were sprayed with salty foam. And one of the added charms of this was the beautiful water-falls that waved their glossy threads down the face of the cliffs. Most of these falls met oblivion before reaching anywhere near the base—scattered by the wind.

The surf beat full against the neck of land we had just rounded, booming and spattering against the black, age-worn rocks. Three little rock islands swam in a sea of sapphire on ahead, their bases fringed in snowy spray. The sampan steered direct for these islands, and we passed between them and the shore. It was not thrilling, it was something I cannot describe. The wind listed, the waves quieted, and the whole world about us seemed to be in a deathlike stillness. On our right, towering, overhanging cliffs, black and moss-grown, seemed about to engulf us, and shut off a great deal of light, casting an eerie shim-mer upon the surroundings. On our left was the largest of the three islands, Mo-kapu, a hundred odd feet high, and shaped much like the bottom of an inverted boat. Its top was crowned with mosses, shrubs, and small stunted palm-trees, which, it is believed, thrive no where else in the world, with the exception, perhaps, of Necker

Island, of the Hawaiian group. Hundreds

THE MID-PACIFIC 445

of sea birds sailed through the air, around and over us, and they made a very pretty sight as they dipped under and across the face of the cliffs, especially the pure white "Puae," or bosun bird, with its two long tail feathers of red. To see these floating along, high, high up near glistening crags and dizzy heights, under silver waterfalls, and over virgin valleys, reminded one of pictures of Paradise.

Passing the shelter of this island, we felt the wind and spray again. We coasted along the shore for another two miles of such scenery, and suddenly rounded a pro-truding mass of huge pointed rocks, thrust-ing upward about sixty feet over the ocean, to look into the valley of Pelekuna. This valley ran into the ocean, a remarkable formation, m701 the deep blue of the Pa-cific extending lo the very edge of its "U" shaped bay. The Lops of the ridges on both sides (a quarter of a mile apart), were hundreds of feet high, and instead of grad-ually slanting into the sea, kept along about the same height and then abruptly broke off into the ocean, making impassable barriers. Pandanus trees which fringed the shore extended up the grassy slopes, until the more dense vegetation crowded them out. The valleys on each side of the bay and the larger ones back of the village were choked with banana, lehua, ohia, hau and such tropical trees, besides a tangle of creepers. The country in the background was nothing but a labyrinth of ridges and mountains, some in fact five thousand feet high. The only access to Pelekuna and its colony of natives is from the ocean, and this is none too safe a one in the smoothest of weather.

As soon as we had pointed our bow into the bay, we could see, although half a mile away, seven little tots with a dog come running out from the village, and advanc-ing along the path, cut into the ridge on the right, like so many goats scrambling along.

I peered around to see if I could pick out the places where we were to land, but

I couldn't see any spot where this seemed possible. Then, ' the anchor went down. On the shore, a few yards away, I could see a derrick, perched on the face of the bluff, and an eighty-degree ladder, climb-ing up from a tiny ledge of rock to it. This ledge was just about the ocean's level. And here we were to land. It looked mighty impossible to me, and I began to feel uneasy about our ever getting the bag-gage and the passengers ashore; as for me, I could swim—and expected to.

Again our little flat-bottomed boat was lowered, and into this I jumped with an-other member of the party. A Japanese boy in the stern swept us shoreward, and another in the bow stood ready, with a long pole to keep us away from the dangerous rocks. In a moment the boat was along the side of the ledge, and we waited 'till a swell came up. Now we shot into a niche worn out of solid rock, about five feet wide and ten long. When the boat was on a level with the shelf, we made a wild leap for it, clinging for dear life. The boat sank away immediately, until the heads of the Japanese were where their feet stood a second ago. They thrust vigorously with their poles and managed to get the boat past danger, though several times it banged and tipped on the bare rocks until it seemed a miracle that it did not go completely over.

By the time we were all ashore, bag and baggage, the village parson, a kindly native of fifty years, and seven little children, were peering down from the derrick above. They let down a huge basket for us to come up in. Mrs. London was the only one to accept the offer. 'While the basket soared and swayed in mid air, I expected the frail bottom to fall out, or the rusty cable to break, or the two ten-year-old native chil-dren to get "rat+ -d" and let go the cable, but fortunately ±z:,. Mrs. London, none of these horrible thiLe3 happened just then. When everything v as hoisted up to the shelf on 'which the derrick hguse and a little shed stood, I started to take my share

446 THE MID-PACIFIC

of the baggage—but there was no baggage left. The native children were scattered along the path, some with out mattresses spread over their heads, and extending down on each side till one could just see their brown naked feet protruding, others with baskets on their heads, or pails in their hands. So we were left free to idle along and stop now and then to take in the mag-nificent scenery.

The trail ran along the face of the cliff for perhaps a quarter of a mile, and then dipped', and wound down into the village of Pelekuna. Nine rather delapidated, old-fashioned and crudely-built houses were scattered along the crescent-shaped bay. Along the front of the village and a little back from the wide stony beach, an ancient stone wall ran, and here the natives in groups were fast gathering to meet us. To the rear of the village and squeezed into the narrow valley far back, were taro patches, rudely cultivated, and almost neg-lected. Not a tree worthy of the name stood about the dwellings. This is not due to dryness, for a day at Pelekuna without its contribution of rainfall is truly an ex-ception. In fact, I believe it is because of too much rain, which has washed the gravel away until a barren rock soil is all that remains until otie goes back about a hundred yards further, then the taro patches are too crowded, for trees. But why trees when no shade is needed ? The sun is seen but four or five hours a day, as it hurries over the strip of sky above, and then, often veiled in mist.

Every inhabitant that could walk was there to greet us with all the hospitality characteristic of the Hawaiian race. They were dressed in the very simplest way, but were clean. Their manners and actions showed them shy, but their faces were al-ways wreathed in smiles, and they stood ever ready to lend a hand.

There were no roads, stores, shops, or any of those comforts (or discomforts) that we are accustomed to associate with the words "town" or "village"—only

houses and people with the bare comforts of civilization, such as kerosene lamps, tin and iron ware, matches, etc. Though these people had just enough to keep them alive, everything of their's that we could use was our's while we stayed there. The little school house was our's for the night, and they brought us poi, dried fish, and felt hurt when we most emphatically re-fused one of their few hogs, the most highly prized of all their possessions.

Our life that night and the next day was one chain of interesting incidents, from our camp-fire dinner in the school house, where we had to hold our plates high to keep off an impudent chicken, a rascal of a puppy, or a scrawny cat; to a trip into the valley, where we found miles and miles of huge stone terraces, witnesses of a once thriving population that must have run into the thousands.

Many a kind "Aloha" was passed to us, and we replied reluctantly. Nobody wanted to go, and our leaving was mechanical, but before we knew it, the boards were swing-ing in a familiar manner under our feet. Pelekuna was fading like a dream before our eyes. Still our connection with the shore was not entirely cut off—handker-chiefs and arms waved to us, sending wire-less messages that needed no code but our feelings to translate.

With each revolution of the propeller, scenes were laid open to us whose mag-nificance and beauty surpassed all that wc thought impossible to surpass the day be-fore. A plateau three thousand feet high and a mile long ended in one vast pall—cut down as if by a knife. Waterfalls, peaceful vales, lagoons hidden under dark caverns, tropical birds floating above, vines swaying in the wind, every form and color of beauty lay revealed in the grand prec-ipice above us, filling half the space be-tween horizon and zenith.

Wailau was very similar to Pelekuna, only with the scenery re-arranged. There was the same peaceful native village rest-ing on a crescent plateau, the taro patches

THE MID -PACIFIC 447

back of it, and the countless ridges be-yond. A tinge of dryness near the shore, a coral strand of fine white sand and many trees that hid all but the roofs of the houses, proved that the rainfall here was not so great as at Pelekuna, or the soil would not be there to support the shore growth of such elegant trees.

It was impossible to satisfy our longing to land, and within a stone's throw of the beach, we had to turn and put out to sea.

Anon, and we were absorbed in an em-brace of 'peacefulness that to our minds would be a violation to break. But, when the break did come, it brought no unpleas-ant results. Everything seemed to happen at once. At that moment our trolling line raced over the side and we knew what was at the other end. Our pulses throbbed, we feared that this fish would meet with such a happy fate as the one before. But no, the line coiled on the deck, and each twist meant a surer chance of our success. In a flash we had him aboard, knocked on the

head, and under the skillful knife of the Japanese, cut into a dozen neat strips. While the warm meat still quivered, it was knifed into smaller bits and put in a bowl. Poi and rice were dealt out, and with the fish, Mrs. London and I crawled under the canvas which stretched over the little cabin. Now for my first lesson in eating raw fish. With a littl "soya" for sauce it was delicious, and it took more than one bowl of rice and fish to satisfy the new craving that was within me. People eat raw oysters without a thought, but these same people would revolt at the idea of such delicate morsels as we enjoyed.

All this time our engine had not been idle, and miles of blue expanse and the purple of distant land lay behind us.

We entered Honolulu harbor just at sunset, the water spurting out on both sides under our cutting prow, all of us

loaded with recollections of a trip never to

be forgotten—a trip of untold beauty.

A windward landing.

•

448 THE MID-PACIFIC

American army hospital quarters at Baguio.

.•

Provincial Progress in the Philippines Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow

(Continued from last number)

By MONROE WOOLEY

•

That the reader may have some idea of the vast empire outside the city of Manila which America has to administer and maintain, it is essential to resort to a few statistics: Over the Philippines eight millions of people, civilized, semi-civilized, and some almost savages, are scattered, occupying a landed area of 1,220,000 square miles. The archi-pelago, having nearly half a hundred provinces, some of which are as large as our States, is composed of more than two thousand islands, large and small, giving a domain within 500 square miles as large as the State of New Mexico, nearly as big as Prussia, consider-ably larger than Italy, two-thirds as big as Spain, and but 25,000 square miles less than the entire area of the Japanese Empire.

RAILROADS were the crying need of the islands for many years. We were there for a decade before actual

construction was undertaken. In Span-

ish times there was but one little

dinky line running from Manila north

on Luzon to Dagupan. This was

then and is still operated under a con-cession to a British company. The line, much improved, now has a branch to Anti-polo, the home of the virgin-image of that name which annually attracts great crowds of devotees of the Catholic faith. Another branch has been built around tine city of Manila, skirting the bay shore for many

449

450 THE MID-PACIFIC

miles, to Cavite. Another is in operation from Manila to Batangas, the capital of the province by that name. Still another line runs from Pasacao, on the west coast of Luzon, through Nueva Caceres, the capital of Ambos Camarines, to the beautiful hemp fields of Iriga, on down to Legaspi, Albay's *thriving hemp port, to the east coast of Luzon. Both the Manila street railway company and the Manila and Dagupan system are planning to extend their lines from Manila into Baguio, the summer cap-ital. When this is done but a few connect-ing links will be necessary to give Luzon a system of railroads its entire length. Amer-icans hace completed standard lines across the islands of Cebu and Panay, tapping rich sugar belts. Altogether it is expected that these extensive systems will do more than any other one thing to u'pbuild the islands and to spread contentment among the people.

The hardwood forests of the Philippines are bound in time to make millionaires of the men engaged in milling them, as well as to give to the world in a time of real need a class of lumber absolutely unexcelled in beauty and durability. The forestry bureau of the insular government is doing all in its power under the law to exploit these forests and at the same time to conserve the sup-ply. Few companies at present are enjoy-ing concessions. The largest of these are in Negros and Batan, where modern mills purchased in this country are in operation. The companies maintain their own general stores, and quarter and feed their employees. They operate their own logging railroads, which stretch far back into the forests. Many of the Philippine hardwoods, owing to their great weight and density, can not be floated. Therefore, marketing is oft-times expensive. In the islands many natives of the higher class have their palatial homes built entirely of costly hardwoods, while here at home we have trouble getting sufflcientosuitable material for fancy cabinet work.

The manner in which we have cared for the sick, the crippled, and the insane is most

commendable. Hospitals are scattered everywhere throughout the interior, treat-ment being free where patients are unable to pay for it. The new Philippine General Hospital just completed has no superior anywhere, either in size or appointment, considering Manila's population.

An insane asylum, of which there were none formerly, is now about completed. For the pitiful leper we have established a permanent, well regulated home in Culion colony. It took a year or two to round up all the lepers in the archipelago, because they imagined we would herd them together like sheep, and in other ways mistreat them. But after the first few were installed they lost no time in sending word back to their afflicted fellows of the benevolence of the government. They found a neat town, with commodious, thatched cottages, garden plots, live stock, work shops, reading and recreation rooms, able doctors and kindly nurses who have necessarily cast their lot with the unfortunates until death.

Our surgeons in the Philippine bureau of health are making decidedly encouraging progress in the treatment of leprosy, and, indeed, some actual cures are believed to have already been made. Husband and wife are permitted to live together in the colony. Their offspring is taken from them after the first year, is kept for a time in quarantine, then allowed to go out into a clean world, if no symptoms of the disease have appeared. Contrary to popular opin-ion, a child born of leprous parents, or one nursing from a leprous mother, rarely, if ever, inherits or contracts the scourge.

The penal colony, also located on a small island to the southward, is likewise a very creditable institution. Here convicts of the better class are taught useful vocations. They are later sent back into society much abler and morally better than when the gates of Bilibid prison, the general peniten-tiary for all the provinces, which is located in Mainla, first closed upon them. We found Bilibid a filthy shamble. Today it is a model penitentiary.

As in the case of Manila's big bay, the

THE MID-PACIFIC 451

harbors of the principal outlying ports have been marvellously enlarged and improved. They now attract shipping from every-where. Stupendous sums have been spent in dredging work, particularly at Cebu, where many steamers clear weekly for world-ports with cargoes of hemp and sugar. Here China coasters make sched-uled calls, often ignoring Manila. Iloilo's harbor has been vastly improved since Span-ish times, and the city is now a close rival of Zamboanga, the capital of Moroland, in point of commercial importance. The beau-tiful weaves of jusi, pina, and abaca cloth come from Iloilo, but few of them, sorry to relate, find their way into our retail stores.

Before American occupation all the elec-tricity in the archipelago was confined to a one-horse electric lighting plant and a tan-talizing telephone system in the city of Ma- nila. The vast domain outlying from Manila was a stranger to electricity and the things it is used for. The capital city had a horse car service that would have

made a hit as an attraction in a museum. There was not a wharf in the entire islands —or in the Far East, for that matter—where an ocean-going vessel could dock. We have built several fine ones of steel and concrete in Manila. The new Manila Hotel now has electric passenger elevators, the first ever installed in the islands, and the city streets are traversed by a trolley system, double-tracked, as good as may be found anywhere. Iloilo, Cebu, and Zam-boanga have electric lights, and Cebu has a trolley system. Ice and refrigerating plants are running in all the bigger towns. The Spanish fire compaines in Manila were jokes. The old-fashioned engines and hand pumps were operated by natives dressed in immaculate white uniforms with helmets that would do honor to a field mar- shal. Now handsome fire horses, well trained under Americans and natives, race with automobile fire engines when a blaze

starts.

The copra industry in the Philippines.

452 THE MID—PACIFIC

vs,

sai

0

ti

0 0

Ci ::"4

O

O

O

: es

O

o.

•

Hungry honey-birds of Australia.

The Birds of Australia Australia, against popular belief, possesses many fine songsters and birds of brilliant plumage.

By JAMES A. LEACH, Sc. D.

TRULY, Australian birds have "suf-fered much from the phrase-maker," but they are now coming to their

own, and are exciting that interest and ad-miration to which their valuable insect-destroying work, their wonderful habits, their great scientific interest, their delight-ful song, their gorgeous plumage, and their friendliness entitle them.

In order nineteen cuckoos are placed. Though the Australian pallid cuckoo is similar to the British cuckoo, and is more living even in cities, yet it is not generally recognized. It sometimes calls all night long, apparently trying to run up a chro-matic scale. Most Australians think there

is no cockoo in this land. While Britain has one kind of cuckoo regularly visiting it, there are fourteen kinds in Australia, but as none has such a characteristic and at-tractive call as the British cuckoo, they are seldom noticed. All but one have the same habit of laying their eggs in other birds' nest. One Australian cuckoo builds its own nest, and rears its own young.

The lyre-bird also is in evidence in Aus-tralia. Its tail is admitted to be the most beautiful tail ornament worn by any bird. Unfortunately, the fox has discovered that it nests close to the ground, so that the bird is doomed except in special sanctuaries. It is a remarkably good mocking bird, as it

453

454 THE MID- PACIFIC

clearly mimics all bush noises, even to the chopping and sawing of wood. It is re-sponsible for the statement that Australia has "wrens as large as a peacock." It, of course, is not a wren.

The beautiful scarlet-breasted Austra-lian robin redbreasts are much handsomer than the British robin redbreast. The Australian birds are placed in the fly-catcher family, while the British robins have been placed in the thrush family.

The vivacious willie wagtail, or shep-herd's companion, the black and white fan-tail, often calls late on moonlight nights, "sweet, pretty, little creature."

Two of the four Australian skylarks, the songlarks (Cincloramphus), are placed in this family.

The mountain thrush is somewhat simi-lar in appearance to the British song thrush. It, however, has not the sustained song of that famous bird. The song thrush and blackbird have been introduced, and sing gloriously in suburban gardens. The con-tinuity of song and the great variety of notes make these birds welcome visitors.

Australia has many good songsters in the warbler family. The reed warbler is the representative of the British bird. Its loud, melodious song is enjoyed by visitors to rivers and lakes.

The tit warblers (A canthizae) are Aus-tralian birds that, in addition to having a pleasant song, render good service in the orchard.

The beautiful blue wren (superb war-bler) is one of the glories of Australian bird life. It was probably in connection with this bird that the falsehood of Aus-tralia as a land of songless birds has its origin. Caley, who collected near Sydney, in 1825, said : "They (superb warblers) are good songsters, and, I may say, almost the only ones in the colony." They are common birds in suburban gardens, and are amongst the first birds to start the morning chorus.

Wood swallows are an Australian fam-ily, though one has spread west as far as India. They appear in spring in large num-

bers, and build a flimsy nest in almost any position. They sometimes hang in a great cluster like a swarm of bees.

Two of the wood shrike family are con-spicuous. The handsome black and white magpie lark is one of the three Australian birds, other than swallows, that build a mud nest. It is common even in towns, and is a valuable bird. It destroys insects and pond snails, the necessary host for some of the liver fluke so destructive at times to sheep.

The other bird is the harmonious shrike thrush, whose "powerful swelling notes" are thought by some to be the sweetest bird call of the bush. It well deserves its scientific name, harmonica. The British thrush, though its song is more continuous, cannot equal the rich notes of this bird. The harmonious thrush also has a good variety of notes. It is becoming common about towns.

Australian animals were ruthlessly des-troyed and were driven away from houses and towns, and much trouble was taken by our homesick forefathers to introduce less valuable and less interesting animals from other lands. Fortunately, we are now learning to appreciate Australian birds, which are again increasing in num-bers. Sparrows, starlings, rabbits and foxes are expensive pests.

The shrike family contains some of the best of Australian songsters. The bold, showy Australian magpies, already famous in Europe as the "white crows that sing," are admitted to be amongst the leading bird songsters. These birds work hard and long, and at evening they assemble to roost in trees. Then a treat is at hand for the bird lovers. Before one section has finished, another has begun that rich, in-descriable carol, which Gould could only wish his readers had the privilege of en-joying in the birds' "native woodlands wild." Recently I enjoyed a magpie con-cert. From four to six in the morning the birds sang gloriously in the moonlight with-out a break, in the timber in the Stony Rises, about a quarter of a mile from a

THE MID-PACIFIC 455

Victorian township. They often sing the long night through on moonlight nights.

The Australian butcher bird has a rich note, considered by some to be equal to that of the magpie. It is frequently heard in autumn.

The crested bell bird is already accepted amongst the world's famous birds. It is a perfect ventriloquist, and is difficult w locate, though it may be uttering its beau-tiful notes within a few feet of an observer.

The whistlers (thickheads) have a great variety of notes, and a fine trilling song that outrivals any caged canary's perform-ance. A good name is needed for these fine songsters.

The eight nut-hatchers (tree runners) of Australia have one representative in Brit-ain; the eight tree creepers, so-called wood-peckers, of Australia also have one representative there.

The melodious silver-eyes, the brilliant flower-pecker (mistletoe bird), and the richly variegated diamond birds of Aus-tralia, are not known in Europe.

Australian forest trees bear few edible fruits, but have usually attractive honey-laden flowers ; hence fruit-eating birds are not numerous, but honey-eating birds are very common.

Honey-eaters, typical Australian birds, form a very large and varied family of over 250 species. The blood honey-eater is small and brilliant, while the large brown wattle bird is upwards of fifteen inches long. The regent (warty-faced) honey-eater is a beautiful bird. Many honey-eaters are good songsters. The bell miner, the bell bird of the poets, is the most famous of them.

The Australian pipit is a close cousin of the British pipit. Strange that these small birds, of seemingly indifferent powers of flight, should have spread even to the isl-ands away south of New Zealand.

The bush lark is a worthy cousin of the British skylark, though its melodious song is not so loud as that of the bird that owes much to British poets.

No true finches were known in Aus-

tralia until sparrows, gold finches, and green finches were introduced from Eur-ope. The twenty-three Australian finches are placed in the family of weaver finches. Some of them are beautiful birds, and are much in demand for European aviaries.

The Australian oriole has a pleasing note, and is a good mimic of other birds' calls. It is not a yellow and black bird, like the oriole of Europe. The Baltimore oriole is not a true oriole, for it belongs to a different family (Icteridae).

Four kinds of birds of paradise—"God's birds"—are found on the mainland of Aus-tralia in tropical eastern scrubs as far south as northern New South Wales. Birds of paradise are probably the most beautiful of birds, being "without rivals in splendor."

The bower birds are Australian, and are "without exception the most extraordi-nary and interesting group of birds in the world." Their wonderful playhouse is often decorated with pretty bright objects. A flock of these birds has taken possession of the school ground at Narrena, South Gippsland. They pick cornflowers and vi-olets from the school garden. They take pieces of blue paper, or blue hair ribbon, and pieces of blue china, left by the chil-dren in the school yard. They are very shy, and wait until the children are dis-missed for the day before gathering the crusts left from lunch. Their playhouse is within one chain of the school ground.

Crows and ravens are too well known to need more than mention here. The apos-tle bird and the white-winged chough, two remarkable and "anomalous" Australian birds, are placed in the crow family. Both go about in company, and both are often called the "Twelve Apostles." Each builds a mud nest.

of the whole bird classi-bell magpies (Streperas) by Dr. Sharpe. This is for Australia, for these only in east, south and Tasmania and Norfolk

At the summit fication the seven have been placed indeed an honor birds are found west Australia, Island:

456 THE MID-PACIFIC

Under the Spreading Banyan Tree.

• •

The Forests of the Hawaiian Islands Hawaii's forests are of infinite value to the community. The following authoritative article

describes certain species and their uses.

By WILLIAM L. HALL

•

THERE are two thoroughly dis-tinct kinds of forests in the Ha-

waiian Islands. One kind occurs near sea level in the drier portions of the islands, and is valuable on account of the timber and other products which it yields. The other kind is found on the mountain slopes, where the rainfall is heavy. It has little commercial but high protective value. In no case do the two forests meet.

The forests which occur near sea level consist of a single species, and this in-troduced. It is the mesquite of the south-western United States and Mexico (Pro-

sopis juliflora), and is called algaroba. The first algaroba tree in Hawaii grew from a seed planted in 1837 by Father Bachelot, founder of the Roman Catholic mission. This tree, which is about two• feet in diameter and fifty feet tall, yet stands in thrifty condition at the corner of Fort and Beretania streets, Honolulu. It is the progenitor of at least 50,000. acres of forest, which is fairly well dis-tributed over the different islands.

On the island of Oahu the algaroba forest, covering densely about 20,000 acres, extends in a narrow, almost continuous belt, along the south and west coasts. In •

457

458 THE MID-PACIFIC

this situation it is fully protected from the northeast trade winds, which blow with great regularity from March to No-vember—exposure to which it cannot en-dure. The young trees are now growing in great numbers as high as 1,500 feet above the sea. It is supposed by some people that algaroba is able to grow at this elevation only by gradual adaptation. Starting at sea level, the trees were at first acclimated only to an elevation of a few hundred feet, but successive gener-ations growing higher and higher up the slopes have at last produced trees which are able to grow at the altitude named. Indeed, since the trees now found at 1,500 feet are all young and thrifty, it seems probable that they will extend much far-ther up the mountain slopes than they have yet done.

Situated as they are, the algaroba for-ests are more acccessible than the other forests of the islands. Indeed, there are hundreds of cases where the forest has taken possession of old feed lots and pas-tures on farms and sugar plantations, and even on vacant lots in towns. Some of the suburbs of Honolulu are thickly grown up with algaroba. The wood, which is valuable for fuel, sells at the plantations and in Honolulu for $9 to $10 per cord. It lasts well in the ground when used as a fence post. Both fuel and fence posts are in such great demand that there is extensive cutting in these forests.

Clean cutting is the method generally employed, and is entirely conservative, since the growth renews itself rapidly by both seeds and sprouts. Within three or four years from the time of cutting, the trees again take complete possession of the ground, and attain a height of twenty to twenty-five feet.

An important feature of the algaroba 's the value of its pods as food for stock. Pods are bonne with great regularity and in abundance after the trees are three

years old. They ripen during the sum-mer months and fall to the ground, where they are either eaten by cattle, horses and pigs, or are picked up to be fed. In eating the pods stock do not crush the small, horny seeds, which pass on through the alimentary system and are prepared for quick germination by the action of the digestive fluids. Stock are, therefore, solely responsible for the rapid and wide spread of this tree. Nor can it be said that their presence in the algaroba forests is noticeably injurious either to standing trees or to reproduction. No doubt they do to some extent browse on young seed-lings, but in the abundance of reproduc-tion this has no perceptible effect upon the stand.

Forming with the exception of grasses, the most important animal food in the islands, the pods are a boon to stockmen, who fatten cattle on them during July and August, when pastures are usually dry; to liverymen, who feed them mixed with corn meal or bran during a large part of the year; and in fact to all who have to supply feed for horses, cattle or hogs.

The algaroba forests are a valuable asset for Hawaii; they have no destruc-tive enemies; they have tremendous powers of reproduction and extension; and, best of all, they are so highly appreciated be-cause of the character of the ground which they cover and the products which they yield that they will be cared for by the individual without special action on the part of the government.

The native forests are distinctly of tropical character. None of the familiar trees of the north temperate zone are present. The observer looks in vain for oaks, maples, pines or spruces. There is one representative each of Sapindus, Soph-ora and Zanthoxylum, and two or three of Acacia, but all differ distinctly from their family in the United States.

The forests of the islands are corn-

THE MID- PACIFIC 459

posed mainly of five distinct types: Pure growts of lehua, koa, mamane and ku-kui, and mixed forests, which are made up of koa, koaia, kopiko, kolea, naio, pua and other species.

The ohia-lehua (Metrosideros poly-morpha), which forms pure stands or grows with a small admixture of koa, nai, kopoko and pua on all the different islands, is the typical forest of regions of very heavy rainfall, such as northeast slopes and mountain tops under 6,000 feet elevation. It comprises probably three-fourths of the native forest.

The lehua of itself seldom forms a dense stand. The trees are apt to grow far apart, and always have small, thin, upright crowns, which are very intolerant of shade. Under varying conditions in the forest the trees grow from thirty to a hundred feet high. In the best forests, which always occur where the rainfall is greatest, many of the trees reach a di-ameter of four feet, a height of one hundred feet and a clear length of fifty feet. The lehua trunk is straight, often twisted, deeply ribbed near the ground, and frequently divided into several roots ten or twelve feet above the ground. The root system is very shallow, often spread-ing right on the surface of the mineral soil.

Though the stand of trees be thin, the normal forest, on account of an abundant and luxuriant undergrowth, is impene-trable except as one cuts his way with knife and axe. Many of the trees sup-port climbers such as the ie-ie vine, which grows into the crowns and may lace together with rope-like stems the trees of an entire forest. Then there is the fern undergrowth, marvelous, in its variety and luxuriance. With species which range in height from a few inches to thirty feet, growing both on trees and on the ground, and running the whole scale of shade en-durance, the ferns do much toward mak-ing the virgin lehua forest the impene-

trable, dark jungle which it often is. Mosses in places cover the ground, fallen logs and tree trunks several inches deep, and grow in bunches over a foot thick on suspended vines and drooping twigs, giving an appearance of weird drapery.

Undergrowth of this kind affords a great quantity of humus, and possesses an enormous capacity for holding water. Even in a rather dry time one may squeeze enough water from a few hand-fuls of moss to obtain a good drink. Fallen logs, fern trunks, and all kinds of debris are constantly saturated. Mountain ridges less than a rod wide at the sum-mit are often boggy where these con-ditions prevail.

In so dark a forest it seems anomalous to find the lehua, a tree of pronounced intolerance, reproducing itself generation after generation. It does so through its singular habit of germinating on both standing and fallen trees, and especially is the fibrous trunk of the tree fern, admirably suited to its needs. Only in such places can it get the light it requires. As soon as it germinates it sends down several roots, which enter the ground and perform the normal functions of sup-port and nutrition. When the host de-cays, the tree is left standing on these roots, which to all appearances are simply divisions of the trunk. The natives have an adage that the amau (tree fern) is the mother of the ohia-lehua.

As one passes above an elevation of 4,000 feet or out of the districts of greatest rainfall, the lehua relinquishes its prominent place and mingles with other species, such as the naio, kolea, kopiko, koaia, and koa.

Lehua wood is of reddish color, heavy, and in drying checks and warps so badly as to be of little commercial use except for fuel. It has been used frequently by the natives in the building of kg houses, and has also been used on the islands for railroad ties.

460 THE MID-PACIFIC

feature of Hawaiian forests. The magnificent fI group of sandal-wood trees in Kilauea National Park Reserve. Koa (Hawaiian mahogany) trees.

Lehua tree

Koa and Lehua

THE MID-PACIFIC 461

The lehua forms the tallest and most impenetrable forests on the islands, and because of its character and of the fact that it covers districts where the rain-fall is greatest and the mountains most precipitous, it forms the most valuable protective forest. Nearly all the districts which accumulate a large supply of water available for irrigation and fluming pur-poses are covered by lehua forests.

Besides growing in mixture with lehua, koa (ilcacia koa) forms pure stands over extensive tracts in Hawaii and Maui. Koa has a leaf which is almost indistinguish-able from the Australian blackwood (dcacia melanoxydon), which has been commonly planted in southern California and with which it is closely related botani-cally. It is naturally a spreading tree with

short trunk, growing in somewhat scat-tered stands. Occasionally under normal conditions it reaches a diameter of six or eight feet and a height of seventy-five feet.

In crowded stands the koa is forced into a long, slender, but seldom straight stem. It is intolerant of shade at all ages, and will not germinate or grow without a large amount of light. Koa also has the fern undergrowth which characterizes the lehua, though as it grows in some-what drier situations its undergrowth is usually not so luxuriant. The ie-ie vine especially is seldom seen in a koa forest.

Koa is the one fairly abundant tree of the Hawaiian forests which is valuable because of its lumber. It is a highly prized cabinent wood, which has been largely used on the islands and has also been exported in limited quantities. Its color varies through many rich shades of red and brown ; its grain is fine and in-distinct. Curly koa is especially prized, but is very rare. Most of the best koa on Maui has been cut, but an extensive mature forest exists in Hilo and Puna at elevations of from 4,000 to 6,000 feet. This forest is but little known, but seems

to contain some magnificent timber and to be in a good state of reproduction. Practically all of this froest is upon acces-sible government land, and could be util-ized to great advantage should the gov-ernment build a road to it and establish a sawmill for working up the mature trees.

Mamane (Sophora chrysophylla) grows successfully only on the high slopes of Mauna Kea and Hualalai. It originally extended down to an elevation of about 4,000 feet on the north slope of Mauna Kea, but was killed out at this elevation apparently by the encroachment of Ber-muda grass (manieie). But little of it is now found except between 6,000 and 8,000 feet, at which elevation it forms a belt clear around Mauna Kea. In this situation it is notable for its rapid ex-tension within the last few years both up and down the mountain. This exten-sion has taken place in spite of heavy grazing, and forms the only example of the extension of the natural Hawaiian forest under such conditions. Unlike the case of the algaroba, cattle seem in no way responsible for the extension of the mamane, as they eat neither the seed nor the fruit. The seed, borne in great profusion, is readily disseminated by wind and water. Mamane also grows abun-dantly on Maui, particularly on the slope of Haleakala, at from 6,000 to 8,000 feet above sea level. It is not abundant on the other islands.

Mamane is the best post lumber of the native forest, and for the reason is a useful tree to the ranchman. It is not of great value as a soil cover, because it neither forms a dense stand nor is sup-plemented by a heavy undergrowth.

Kukui (illeurites triloba), a handsome tree with large silvery leaves pointed like the leaves of the California sycamore, characterizes the bottoms an sides of gulches and streams to an elevation of 2,000 feet. It is frequently called candle•

462 THE MID-PACIFIC

nut, because of the oily nut which it pro-duces in abundance, and which in olden times was used by the natives for illumin-ation. The kukui has value only as a cover for the steep slopes where it grows. In almost all cases it has beneath it a dense undergrowth of fern. In very moist coves, protected from severe winds, the wild banana often forms a part of its undergrowth. Near the edges of streams the kukui is frequently supplanted by the ohia-ai, which, in small patches, forms the densest forest to be found in the islands.

Mixed forests of koa, koaia, kopiko, kolea, naio, pau and other species occur on nearly all the islands, particularly on portions too dry for the species above named to form pure forests. Thus, on approaching a forest area from a desert, one encounters first a mixed forest and afterwards a pure forest of some of the kinds mentioned. Forming thus the edge of the natural forest, and occuring often on plains or gentle slopes, the mixed for-ests have suffered more from grazing than any other type. Very many of them have been almost entirely exterminated, as, for instance, those on the leeward slopes of the Kohala Mountains of Hawaii and those on the upper portion of Kula, on Maui. The mixed forests have often been injured by grasses, particularly the Ber-muda grass, which thrives under the same natural conditions.

Originally the forests were limited only by such natural conditions as lack of rainfall, elevations, and lava flows.

The northeast trade winds keep the windward mountain slopes saturated by frequent rains during the greater part of the year, and on these slopes, at eleva-tions of 1,500 to 3,000 feet, where the rainfall is greatest, is found the heaviest forest. Toward regions of lessened ex-posure to trade winds and decreased rain-fall the forest becomes thinner and of poorer quality, and on the leeward, where

the rainfall is in places less than thirty or forty inches per year, there was often no forest at all. Probably the area which originally bore no forest because of in-sufficient rainfall was quite large, for it is certain that all of the important islands now have large tracts to which no trees of the native forests are adapted.

Elevation has put a sharp limit to the forest on the islands of Hawaii and Maui at from 6,000 to 8,000 feet. This leaves very large areas of Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, Hualalai and Haleakala devoid of forest, and they have always been so. The mountains of the other islands, being un-der 6,000 feet, are forested to their sum-mits. Six to eight thousand feet is a surprisingly low timber line, considering the favorable conditions of soil, moisture and temperature which prevail at that altitude in Hawaii. The sufficient reason seems to be that the species composing the native forests are all representatives of the torrid zone, and in these islands, which lie right at the edge of the tropics, find their limit at the low altitude named.

On the slopes of Mauna Loa lava flows have put a sharp limit to the forest in a number of places. Many thousand acres which once must have been well forested are now surfaced with lava rock (pahoehoe), and support only a meager growth of fern and stunted trees. Slowly this rock is decomposing, and as it de-composes the forest improves.

These were the chief agencies restrict-ing the forest up to about one hundred years ago. Since that time various dele-terious agents, such as stock, insects, grasses, fire and clearing, have worked so effectually toward the destruction of the woodland that every forest in the isl-ands has been reduced, until it is now only a fragment of what it was originally. The island of Molokai well illustrates this point. This island, 38 miles long by 8 miles wide, has a range of mountains over 4,000 feet high at its eastern end,

THE MID-PACIFIC 463

drops to a low plain in the center and rises to 1,380 feet near the western end. Orig-inally all the eastern end well down to the western end, were heavily forested. The plain was park-like, with scattering groves of trees. There is little at present even to indicate former conditions. All the western end is bare. The trees are gone from the plain, and also from the western and southern slopes of the moun-tains at the eastern end. Only a few thousand acres of the highest south slopes and the precipitous north slopes of the mountains are now covered with growing forest. Stretching around the living forest is a wide belt of leafless tim-ber, which has died within the last decade, but has not yet fallen.

Each of the other islands exhibits the same conditions. More marked examples

of declining forests can scarcely be imag-ined than exist in the districts of Hama-kua and Kohala in Hawaii, and Kula in Maui, in which one may pass through thousands of acres of totally dead forest into equal areas of which the forest is in a dying condition, and from these into the small remnant that yet remains thrifty.

No estimate can be given of the ratio of the present forest to that of a century ago. The former area is unknown, and the present forests are so inaccessible and so irregular in shape that a safe estimate cannot be made without much further study. But it is certain that the present

area, which may not be more than twenty

per cent of the islands, is but a small part

of what existed at that time.

The Fan or Traveller's Palm. •

-164 THE MID-PACIFIC

Railway travel in Java is one succession of delectable changes of scenery. There are viaducts over forests and long bridges over streams

alive with boats, or above fields teeming with life and color.

•

11 bit of architeeture at Djokjarkarta.

On to Djokjarkarta The Sultan still reigns supreme at Djokjarkarta.

FROM THE EDITOR'S DIARY.

February 14, 1914.

THIS morning at Garoet, before daylight the Malay boy at the Hotel Pension woke me up and

informed me that it was time to begin my journey to Djokjarkarta. At the railway station I met a young Australian who had been travelling around the world because labor had gone up in Aus-tralia and he declared the working man there would not give him honest work for honest pay.

I changed cars at the junction Tjiba-toe for the Java Express and on the train met Governor Adams of Colorado and Mr. Stallsmith. They called and were with me the whole morning. The ride is one of beauty, and we passed rivers and through swamps. We saw men in little dug-out canoes gathering mud from the river for fertilizer, also large quinine groves, and, for the first time, drying sheds for copra. The sugar cane fields now came into view, but the cgne does not seem so rich as it Hawaii. The

465

4-66 THE MID-PACIFIC

cocoanut groves were almost continuous. We arrived in Djokjarkarta about two

o'clock, and I am at a small hotel where I am charged 5 :25 guilders a day. The lunch was good, being a "rice table." After lunch I wandered about visiting the walled part of the native village, much better than the ordinary towns I have seen in Java. Then I went down to the river and saw a lot of naked chil-dren wading in the ' river and hauling out the refuse from an abbatoir. It was sickening. It began to rain and I hur-ried down the beautiful drives and then across the river by a bridge from which the view was really interesting, although there is little water in the river now. I called at the place where the native arts are exhibited, and from there to the Residence Office to get a permit to visit the palace, but as tomorrow is Sunday a permit was denied me. I walked into the great' square called the "aloon" and on into the palace grounds until I was ordered out by two Dutch soldiers. Com-ing out I met the royal family returning fron► school in two carriages, with quaintly robed Javan footmen behind. The children in the carriage were gorge-ously dressed. The aloon has a great wall around it, and in every direction one looks there is a mosque. The palace grounds are entered through two great portals. Within the first seemed to be a great banquet hall. In the aloon are great trees that look as if they had been cut in the shape of band-boxes, but I pre-sume they are natural. I wandered into the grounds of a mosque, but the mosque itself was surrounded by water, and girls bathed on one side of the mosque and boys on the other. They were having a great time. Those who wished to enter the mosque had to wade in water knee deep so that they were sure to have clean feet. The main street is equally inter-esting with its Chinese and Japanese scores and its native market, and the

place where the native art work is sold is quite interesting. I saw the bamboo instruments such as those used by the children of Garoet. They were offered at 25 Dutch cents apiece and a set of the metal orchestra of thirteen pieces such as used in Djokjarkarta, for fifty guild-ers. The rain came down and I tried to face it out but had to return to the hotel, where I learned there would be no dinner before 8:30.

It is lonely without Joe. Early this morning I wandered around

until I struck the road to the water castle. I went up on one part of the wall from a gate, and found the whole thing going to ruin. The wall was so wide (over 25 feet) that someone had started a vegetable garden on it. I found my way into the grounds of the old water castle, but a native caught up with me and I must say he was a good guide. He showed me damp underground rooms of masonry where the sultan and his wife (wives) once slept, and, everything was wet and moist from the water courses. The whole place is rapidly crumbling away, even the underground cement pas-sages. From the krotan to this palace there was a waterway through which the sultan could be carried by boat. In the castle were rooms for the royal fam-ily and an underground mosque. I clambered up to the top of the castle which is all in ruins and could look out over the palace grounds. There was nothing conspicuous in the krotan, and I saw practically all of interest in the big enclosure. It is said that the walls are four miles in circumference and that fifteen thousand people live within them. I wandered through the native market and for one cent bought a cocoa-nut full of milk. I wandered into one of the big enclosures and found many people at prayer in a great mosque, and there was an orchestra of fifteen native boys with gongs, harps, etc., but I was

THE MID-PACIFIC 467

asked to depart. (They took my binocu-lars for a camera.) I did not eat much of my cocoanut. A small boy practic-ally naked provoked me with his aristo-cratic air of superiority. He had noth-ing in the world and was proud of it, so I determined to burden him with wealth, and gave him the cocoanut. He had to carry it in his hands and his studied air of independence was crushed.

I took the 11 :43 steam tram for Moent-land for the temples of Boeroeboedoer (pronounced Boo-roo-boo-door). One difference between the steam tram and the railway is that the tram jolts a little more and stops more frequently. It runs along the highways. I do not see

why fast trains do not run on these tracks.

We are now in the sugar cane coun-try. At the place for native industries in Djokjarkarta I noticed that they make a very fine fiiligree work from buffalo hide. Just think, if the Japanese had come here a hundred years ago when there were about six million people in-stead of the thirty millions of today, had they brought their arts and culture there might have been a wonderful new civili-zation. At it is the Dutch have done nothing to educate the people in the per-fection of their useful arts so that they could hand them down to their descend-ants.

Some of the Sultan's dancers.

•

468 THE MID-PACIFIC

From Saigon, in French-China, may be reached some of the most interesting temple ruins in the world, and the French are now making the way to these easy to the traveler. In fact,

the entire temple region is being opened to the tourist.

II Saigon temple entrance.

•

Fascinating French-China Some of her attractions are herein described.

By A. BALLIF (President of the Touring Club of France)

SAIGON is the capital of French Cochin-China and is at the same time the most important center of

Indo-China as regards economics. With the market of Cholon, which is only a suburb, Saigon forms a great agglomer-ation whose population numbers more than two hundred and forty thousand inhabi-tants. It is certainly one of the prettiest towns of the Far East. With its broad avenues, its streets planted with trees and its houses standing in their own gardens, it looks like an immense park. The town is situated between the river, the arroyo of the Avalanch, and the Chinese arroyo, but it stretches beyond the latter on the right bank, where the new embankments have just been built and where undoub-tedly within a few years the industrial and commercial part of the city will be found. Saigon had formerly, like Singa-pore, and Batavia, a regrettable reputation

for unhealthiness, but for a long time now the filling up of the marshes, the construc-tion of sewers, the opening of broad roads have completely stamped out malaria fever. There is a large supply of excellent drink-ing water, which comes directly from un-derground springs. People who live there for many years suffer in the end from the usual relaxing effects of all tropical re-gions, but the tourists who stay there only a few weeks have nothing to fear from the country or the climate.

Besides the monuments, the theatre, the charming drives and walks which the town and its near surroundings offer (Botani-cal garden, public garden "tour de l'in-spection," upper and lower roads of Cho-Ion), there are all around Saigon magni-ficent roads which enable the tourist to reach the sea or to penetrate into the for-est in a few hours.

Nothing is more interesting than those

469

470 THE MID-PACIFIC

excursions which bring you in a few hours right into the heart of the forest, into re-gions where no longer villages are to be seen, but into glades and into hamlets in-habited by half-savage tribes, the last re-mains of the aboriginal population which was formerly the owner of the land. The traveler who in the morning leaves a big town, a y, ...comfortable dwelling, suddenly finds himself among savages, scantily dres-sed, wearing necklaces and bracelets made of brass or glass, who shoot tigers and stags with a bow and with a sagaie. On such excursions it is a good thing to take a gun with one for deer, boars, pheasants or peacocks suddenly appear as the motor-car passes by. At night especially the animals, blinded for a minute by the glar-ing head lights, run or fly in front of the car, and it is quite easy to shoot them.

Pnom-Penh, the present capital of Cam-bodge (it has had several capitals), is built on the south bank of the Ton-le-Sap. It has a frontage on the river of more than two kilometers and it is bound or crossed by artificial canals. The ex-cavations of these canals supplied the ma-terials used for the levelling of the ground on the spot where the town has been built. The tourist will there visit with much interest the Royal Palace, the Throne Room, the Watt Prah Keo or Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the floor of which is made of silver scales, the pogoda of the Pnom, built on the top of a hillock which one reaches by a gigantic staircase bordered with Nagas, the seven-headed snake found on all the ancient Khmer monuments.

From Pnom-Penh the boat reaches the Great Lakes by the Ton-le-Sap; this sheet of water, which is 120 kilometers long and 800 meters wide, is also, according to the season, a, tributary of the Great Lakes. During the rising of the waters, the wa-ters of the Mekong flow into them and fill the lakes, whose levels rise about ten meters and which forms then a wide ex-panse of water, 200 kilometers long and

40 kilometers wide. In the dry season the current takes another direction, the lakes gradually become empty, and, from February till May„ they are simply mere basins, almost dry, where the water is hardly a meter deep and where sand banks render all navigation impossible. This is the time of the great fishing season. The Cambodgians dam the Ton-le-Sap with branches and hurdles, just at the spot where it separates from the lake. The fish, which at high water have gathered to-gether in the huge basin, go to those places where there is still some water. Fishing is going on everywhere. Most interesting to see are these lakes where every year there is a wonderful haul of fish which brings from fifteen to twenty millions of francs.

The journey on the Ton-le Sap from Pnom-Penh to Kompong-Chnang offers at every turn the most picturesque views. On the banks one sees the Cambodgian vill-ages with their houses made of planks and standing on high piles. They are sur-rounded by plantations of banana trees, of cocoanut trees and sugar palm trees. Now and then there are small woods ex-tending to the river banks. At high wa-ter, the steamers sail between the trees. On the highest branches the Cambodgians place their provisions of wood. In front of the huts, the big fishing nets are stretched to dry, together with the most varied fishing tackle. On the river one sees Chinese junks, heavily laden boats, and rafts laden with wood. Here and there temples appear in the distance. One passes the spots where the different capi-tals of Cambodge have stood. First Ou-dong, where, on the top of a neighbor-ing hill, one catches sight of an old pogoda, famous for the colossal image of Buddha worshipped there. Close by is still to be found a mausoleum with three ter-races raised one above the other, where a host of hideous idols stand in line.

The Khmer empire formerly spread over the greater part of Indo-China. It oc-

THE MID-PACIFIC 471

cupied the present Cochin-China, the mid-dle valley of the Mekong as far as the Shans States and that of the Me-Nam. It was founded at the beginning of the Chris-tian era by Hindoo adventurers, who came from Bengal, and who sailed with a small fleet into the estuary of the Mekong, set-tled on the banks and gradually, like Her-nand Cortez or Pizzarre, subjugated all the surrounding populations and ruled over them by reason of their superior civiliza-tion and genius. There were among them philosophers, artists, scholars, as well as soldiers, and for centuries the new king-dom remained in constant communication with India. It was its nearest neighbor, the two countries touched one another, or at least there was no powerful state to come between them, and, in this Khmer Empire whose domination was undisputed, where no civil war waged, as in India, the Hindoo art developed into the greatest splendor. For that very reason, owing

to the strangest circumstances, the most extraordinary masterpieces of the Brahmin architecture rose, not in India, the cradle of Bramahnism, but in Cambodge, be-tween the Great Lakes and the Mekong. Then towards the eleventh century the Birman, Siamese and Laotian invasions be-gan ; gradually new races, strong and young kingdoms, came and cut off the Khmer empire from the fruitful land of India, where its genius found its inspir-ation.

Attacked in the west and in the north by the Siamese, in the east and in the south by the Annamites, the immense em-pire was obliged to draw back, to give up whole provinces to the invaders, to for-sake the old capitals, to shut itself up within the narrow limits of the present Cambodge and a little later on, in order to avoid certain destruction, it had to ask France to give it her protection which would assure its destiny.

•

472 THE MID-PACIFIC

Typical of Kau.

Kau and Her Deserts in Hawaii By H. W. KINNEY

(Superintendent of Public Instruction, Territory of Hawaii) q.

DESERTS separate Kau on the northeast from Puna, and on the northwest from Kona. At each

end is an extensive cattle ranch, and the rest of the district is divided be-tween two sugar plantations. There are two landings, one for each end of the district, and most of the section makai of the government road, which runs through the district, is barren.

Leaving the Volcano House (which is near the Kau east boundary) the road traverses a sandy plain, on the north

side of the crater, and enters a section of excellent road. About five miles from the Volcano House the road strikes through several miles of barren a-a flow, which makes traveling easy. In the mid-dle of this section is a water tank. A short distance beyond is a gate and a ranch employee's house, the last habita-tion, near the road, until Pahala is reached. The old Halfway House (Dol-way's) was about thirteen miles from the Volcano House. Only 4he ruins of a water tank and a couple of cypress

473

474 THE MID-PACIFIC

trees now mark the place. This section is covered with sparse forest. Westward of this lie grassy plains, and about eigh-teen miles from the Volcano House the road passes the main gate leading to the Kapapala ranch house. Pahala, ly-ing inland, is the first village reached. Here begins the settled part of Kau, and the road runs through cane fields, interrupted by stretches of lava flow, until Waiohinu is reached. West of Pahala is also this plantations' sisal plantation and sisal mill, the most ex-tensive on the Island. Mauka of the road is seen a fertile cane field growing on a mud flow at a 1200-foot elevation. This mud flow was originally a mass of marshy clay which, in 1868, was detached by an earthquake from the bluff at the head of the valley. In a few minutes it swept down three miles in a stream half a mile wide and thirty feet deep. Immediately afterward a tremendous tidal wave swept the entire coast of Kau, and Kilauea emptied itself of its lava through underground fissures to-wards the southwest.

On the makai* side a green gate opens to the road leading makai to Punaluu, with its large warehouses and palm trees.

Going west the road passes through Hilea, a small village. The road forks here, the branches meeting on the. west side of the village. The makai branch is the better of the two. The mauka one passes through the village, where there is a large water trough. Mauka of Hilea, in the cane field, is the Puu o Makanau heiau. According to the kamaainas, a certain chief who was noted for the hard work which he im-posed upon his people, ordered them to bring up to the heiau a big tree, from which he intended to fashion an idol. The task angered the people, and they claimed that it could not be done unless they dragged with a rope from

above while the punaheles (sub-chiefs, who acted in this case as overseers) pushed the tree from below. This was accordingly done, when the people, as they had planned, suddenly let go the rope, and the tree rolled back, crushing the punaheles. The door of this heiau was, according to the tradition, covered with small stones from the beach of Ninole which were passed from the beach to the heiau from hand to hand by a line of men extending from the beach to the heiau.

Further west lies Honuapo, near the beach. This is the landing for West Kau, and a big plantation mill and camp are here. From here the road strikes mauka* again, passing through Naalehu, where is the office of the plan-tation, the main store and the manager's residence, as well as the old mill, which has now been abandoned. Hence a road strikes mauka to the Kaunamano homesteads.

A couple of miles further west lies Wahiohinu, the main town of Kau, an exceedingly pretty village, nestling in a corner of the mountain range. It was in the past a very important and popu-lous town, but it is falling into decay and the population is dwindling. Hence another trail leads mauka, and east-ward, to the Kaunamano homesteads. West of Waiohinu the main road passes a number of small cattle raisers' homes, and finally strikes through the vast lands of the great Kahuku ranch to Kona. The ranch house is a short dis-tance makai of the road, and is the last habitation. The only breaks are a water tank (generally containing but little, and bad, water) and, further west, an abandoned sheep sation. Most of the land is barren, and several recent flows are crossed, which support not the slightest growth. Two main branches of the 1907 flow cross the road. It broke out at an elevation of about 12,000

Note: In Hawaiian one says "mauka" when he means "towards the mountains," and "ma kai" when he wishes to indicate "towards the sea."

THE MID-PACIFIC 475

feet and crossed the road after two days, traveling first as pahoehoe at a rate at times of seven miles an hour, later, as a-a, in a gigantic mass, at about thirty feet an hour.

Near Punaluu, which is the landing for East Kau, where a few houses are prettily located, among cocoanut trees, are the remains of a couple of heiaus, Punaluunui, once a very extensive struc-ture ; and Kaneeleele, an important temple, said to have been connected in its workings with the great Wahaula heiau, in Puna. Hence a trail runs westward, along the beach, until, within less than a mile, the beaches of Wailau; Koloa and Ninole, with a few houses, all within a few hundred yards, are en-countered. The black, smooth pebbles found here are famous throughout the Islands on account of their supposed power of self-propagation. The Ha-waiians distinguish between. male and female stones, the latter having smaller pebbles enclosed in their cavities. These smaller ones, according to the persistent belief, become detached from the parent stone, and later on grow to full size and in their turn give birth to pebbles. Here is also a large fresh-water spring. The trail continues westward, past some straggling grass houses and the village of Kaalaiki, to Honuapo. It crosses two lava flows, and is, even on horse-back, a rough trail.

A short distance east of Waiohinu a fair road strikes makai, leading to Kaalualu, at one time the landing for West Kau, but now consisting merely of a shallow inlet, where is the Kaalualu ranch house and a few houses. It is an unprepossessing spot, visited mainly on account of the good plover shooting. The legend has it that an ancient chief, named Puuokoihala, ordered the people of Kau to bring a big hookupu (offer-ing of food) to Kapua, on the south Kona beach. They went along the beach, with great bundles of food, but on arriving at Kapua they were told

that the chief had gone in a canoe to Kailikii, back towards Kau. They re-traced their steps, but on arriving there were told that the chief had continued back to Waiohukini. Again they went on - back, but were told to follow him to Kalae, and thence again to Kaalualu. Here they were told to follow him to Waiohinu, but their patience was ex-hausted. They went swimming, ate the hookupu food, and placed stones in its place inside the ti leaf wrapping and the calabashes which had contained it. Finally the chief came from Waiohinu, and enquired, angrily : "Where is the food ?" They answered : "Here is your food," and threw the stone bundles at him, killing him.

A very rough trail leads eastward from Kaalualu towards Honuapo, pass-ing a small fishing place, Kamilo, known as "Kamilo-paekanaka," from the word pae, i.e., to float ashore. It derived its name from the fact that the bodies of men who had been slain and thrown over the cliffs along the coast, would generally float into the inlet by, the vil-lage. It was also famous as the place where love messages from Puna and the country in that direction could be picked up, the Puna affinity sending his, or her, message in the shape of a h'ala or maile lei enclosed in a calabash, which would float ashore here. . Throughout Kau are numerous caves, many of them used as burial places in the days when Kau was densely populated. Most of them are sealed and thus well hidden, and only few have been explored. An excellent example lies about one and one-half miles east of Naalehu and makai of the main road. A hole has been broken through the stone wall, which was built up to hide the entrance. The cave is a large one and opens into several others, some of which have stone pave-ments. These evidently extei!d quite a distance, and have only been super-ficially explored.

476

THE MID-PACIFIC

•

Buller Gorge, between Westport and Greymouth.

• Greymouth and New Zealand's

West Coast Some interesting things about a once deserted part of New Zealand which is now coming into

its own.

By G. FENWICK

N1 OT long ago, I was one of a party of a dozen or more to visit a por-tion of New Zealand where the

fleeting riches of gold-mining have given place to the true prosperity of constructive industries. Our objective point was Grey-mouth, affectionately termed "the Grey" by all loyal New Zealanders.

Greymouth has emerged from the period when old and inadequate buildings were considered good enough for business pur-poses, and many substantial premises now give an air of solidity to the town, and are evidence that trade is there to have

warranted their erection. In the matter of private residences, too, it is pleasant to see the transition that is taking place, for added to the comfortable homes of many of the older residents, with their neat and well-kept gardens, there are many new houses which increase the attractiveness of the town and add to the improvements that are being affected in some of the residential streets—everywhere to be seen. On finer days the firm sandy beach to the south of the breakwater is a resort for those who enjoy surf-bathing, and the brealNvater it-self, stretching as it does well on towards

477

478 THE MID-PACIFIC

the bar beyond the river's mouth, affords a fine parade on calm days. From it may be seen in the far distance, perchance sombre and mist-clad, the massive forms of the great mountains which divide the east from the west, or possibly a clear view of Aoran-gi, the cloud-piercer, gleaming white in a cloudless sky, monarch of the chain of lesser giants by whom he is surrounded. This noble peak is distant ninety or a hundred miles in a direct line from Greymouth and from either Hokitika or Greymouth it can, under suitable atmospheric conditions, be distinctly seen.

Soon after our arrival in Greymouth we set out in a drive to a charming bush-clad locality known as Point Elizabeth, a fine headland which stretches into the sea some nine miles to the north of Greymouth. The day was beautifully fine, and after lunch a goodly number of visitors and townspeople, on the invitation of the pro-prietors of the Grey River Argus, took their places in the numerous vehicles, which had been procured for the trip. We had a de-lightful drive, passing en route through the government township of Runanga, the home of the miners who work in the state coal mine not far distant. It is a Socialistic community of advanced views, whose mem-bers, as is well known, are among the strongest of the Labour party of the Domin-ion. A public hall, prominently situated in one of the main thoroughfares, bears in aggressive looking lettering the legend :

"The world's wealth for the world's workers.

United we stand, divided we fall." Shortly after passing through Runanga

we emerge on a road which skirts the beach, and reach our destination after an extreme-ly pleasant drive. Some of the party, after leaving the vehicles for a short spell, walk on through a pretty piece of brush. It is typical of many miles of forest scenery, stretching far to the very confines of set- tlement South Westland.

It is a far cry to those early days of the Golden Coast, when Hokitika and Grey-

mouth were the centers of vast populations of hardy miners scattered along many miles of coastline, when rich deposits of gold re-warded the pioneers for the discomforts they endured, when townships sprang into existence with mushroom growth, and pub-lic houses and dancing rooms by the score were thronged with sturdy miners lavishly spending their easily gotten gold, and little recking of the leaner days to come. For Hokitika and Greymouth were in due time to experience the reaction, the dwindling trade, the lessened prosperity, that inevit-ably follow in the wake of the exhaustion of the surface deposits of all alluvial gold-fields until more permanent industries arise. The West Coast has gone through many vicissitudes since those glittering days of the sixties and early seventies, and sic transit gloria mundi is the thought that comes uppermost in the mind of the present-day visitor as he passed through the de-serted workings of the fields that in by-gone years were scenes of busy activity. The well-built heaps of lichen-covered stones, the vast areas of tailings now over-grown with vegetation, the dilapidated and long-deserted huts of the miners, tell their tale of the days that have gone. But they were the precursor of less evanescent pros-perity, and it is not too much to say that Greymouth especially has had much pros-perity of a solid kind for many years, and must have a good future before it.

Two days later, by a drive in another direction we were taken to a beautiful piece of bush reserve through which passes Mars-den road and home by way of Paroa. We passed through a piece of the most delight-ful bush, with a wealth of fern trees close to the road and rimu and kahikatea and silver pine trees rearing their heads far above the surrounding vegetation. It is a piece of typical New Zealand bush as seen in localities where the growth is profuse, and the people of Greymouth have done well in seeing to it that for all time it is to be 'preserved as a scenic reserve, a beauty spot where, within easy reach of

THE MID-PACIFIC 479

the town, business and household cares may be forgotten and where Nature in her most beauteous aspect may bring a soothing balm to the mind and rest to the physical being.

We made a circle of an extension of this fine piece of bush, which has gone into private hands and will doubtless in due time be cleared and the land made to contribute to the prosperity of Greymouth. Many of the old workings of the goldfields days were passed. From some of these great quantities of gold had been taken, but now the only things to indicate the pros-perity of bygone years are great heaps of stones thrown out by the aid of the sluice fork, and considerable areas denuded of soil, on which ferns and weeds are the only vegetation. The but of many a hatter was seen, and occasionally one of these veterans stood in his doorway and returned our salute and greeting. Paroa reached, we found afternoon tea awaiting us at a cozy little cottage residence, where much pleas-ant hilarity betokened the enjoyment of both visitors and their hosts and friends. Due recognition was made of the day's hos-pitality and of the general good will shown to us, and after an acknowledgement by one of the proprietors in fitting terms, we re-sumed our drive, and reached home by the pleasant road which skirts the south beach, past the wreck of the Lauderdale lying em-bedded in the sand.

Visits to the bowling green, afternoon teas, pleasant evenings at the homes of some of the residents, and drives to vari-ous points of interest, were enjoyed to the full, and as a fitting conclusion to the round of pleasure the Greymouth Star Company issued invitation tickets to a picnic by rail to Lake Moana, with a couple of hours on the lake in three motor launches. The railway line runs through a piece of beautifully wooded country, and especially picturesque are the banks of the

Arnold river, near where the stream leaves the lake. Luncheon was laid in the public hall of the settlement, and a merry party crowded the tables. The waters of the lake were temptingly placid, and we quickly filled the motor launches and sped on our way. The reflections in the lake, as we passed close to the wooded shores, were very fine, and exclamations of delight were continuous. We passed a piece of land which stretches into the lake like a penin-sula, on which a Maori pa had stood in remote times. It has not been occupied within the memory of any of the West Coast Maoris of the present day, and its history is unknown. Some time since evi-dence of its former occupation was found in the shape of a greenstone tiki and a large stone needle, found on the surface; and doubtless the ground, which is now private property, will, when systematically searched, yield other ornaments and treas-ures. Rounding the point we found our-selves in a pretty little bay, and headed for a large sawmill which was busily at work. Greymouth was reached in good time for dinner.

Among other pleasant features of our stay were a visit to Kamara, the home of the late Mr. Seddon, and a day at Hokitika, where the beauties of Lake Kanieri and Lake Mahinapua proved to be all that had been claimed for them.

The reflections in Mahinapua creek ab-sorbed our attention and admiration, and both lakes presented features of beauty which have been in no way exaggerated in the descriptions of them which are so well known in all New Zealand.

But the most satisfactory feature of our visit was the evidence on all sides that Grey-mouth is a city being built to endure, a place of homes, where the growing prosperity of the inhabitants marks the permanent growth of the city itself.

480 THE MID-PACIFIC

•

A Fijian village of today.

Fijian Homes and Houses

Being one of a series of articles on homesof Pacific peoples.

By William T. Brigham, A. M. Sc. D.,Director of Bishop Museum.

SO FAR we have had Polynesian housebuilding, and it may seem strange to break the order by omitting the

most elaborate form, that of the Maori, for the present, and taking up the work of an entirely different people as the Pacific isl-anders are generally classified, but my reason is not only founded on the geograph-ical relation of the Vitian group to those whose housebuilding has already been de-scribed, but on the close relationship of form and manner of building, which as we shall see later on, nearly resembles that of the Hawaiians.

It is perhaps unnecessary to go farther back than the time of the United States Exploring Expedition (1840), for foreign influence had made little, if any, change in the manner of building dwellings, although the advance of missionary work was soon to destroy the Fijian temples. The account of the houses as given by Captain Wilkes in his Narrative is rather fragmentary, probably made up from the journals of the various officers, but it gives a definite picture of the Fijian habitation as it was, and as it is in many parts of the great Vitian archi-pelago, parts of which if turned from can-

481

482 THE, MID-

nibalism, are otherwise as they were when white men first visited the group. Captain Hudson, the second in command, and who will also be remembered as the commander of the Niagara in the laying of the first At-lantic cable, had been sent to amuse the king at Rewa with fireworks, and in the rainy weather he proceeded at once to the king's house, which is thus described:

The house was large, and in shape hot un-like a Dutch barn; is was sixty feet in length and thirty in width ; the eaves were six feet from the ground, and along each side there were three large posts, two feet in diameter and six feet high, set firmly into the ground ; on these were laid the horizontal beams and plates to receive the lower ends of the raft-ers; the rafters rise to a ridge-pole thirty feet from the ground, which is supported by three posts in the center of the building. They were of uniform size, about three inches in diameter and eighteen inches apart. The usual thick thatch was in this case very neatly made. The sides of the house were of small upright reeds, set closely together. All the fastenings were of sennit, made from the husk of the cocoa-nut. Some attempts at ornament were observed, the door-posts being covered with reeds wound around with sennit which had a pretty effect. There are two doorways, one on each side; these are only about three feet in height, and are closed by hanging mats. * * * * * On one side of the house, as is usual among the Feejeeans, the cooking place is excavated, a foot deep and about eight feet square; this was furnished with three large earthen pots of native manufacture."

Of a mbure (sacred or memorial house) they say:

"The mound on which it is built is an artificial one, ten feet high; The mbure is about twelve feet square, and its sides or walls only four feet high ; while its high pitched roof rises to the height of about thirty feet. The walls and roof of the mbure are constructed of canes about the 'size of a finger, and each one is wound round with sennit as thick as a cod line, made from the

PACIFIC

cocoa-nut husk. At a little distance, the whole house looked as though it was built of braided cord."

Again this description is given : "Their houses differ from those of the

other groups, although they are constructed of similar materials. The frame and sills are made of the cocoa-nut and tree fern, they have two doorways, on opposite sides, from three to four feet high, and four feet wide; the posts are set in the ground and are placed about three feet apart; the rafters of the palm tree are set upon a plate resting on the post; these have a very steep pitch, and support a cocoa-nut log, that forms the peak of the roof; the ends of the peak ex-tend beyond the thatching at each end, and are covered with shells (Ovulum ovum). The thatching is peculiar, being thickest at the eaves.

"The sides are closed in with small cane, in square wickerwork, and not in diamond shape, as those of Tonga. Mats are hung before the doors. The common houses are oblong, from twenty to thirty feet in length, and fifteen feet high. Some of the best class of buildings, belonging to the chiefs, are exceedingly well and ingeniously built. If a person wishes to build a house, he carries a present of a whale's tooth to the king or chief, and tells him his wish, the size, etc. The king or chief orders the men who are generally employed for such purposes, to pre-pare the timber and get all things ready. The direction is given to some one as the chief superintendent, and from one to five hundred men are employed, as may be deemed necessary. The house is finished in ten or fifteen days, and will last about five years without repairs to its thatching. They are, however; generally considered tenantable for twenty years, or upwards. All the houses have fire-places a little on one side of the center; these are nothing more than an ash-pit, with a few large stones to build the fire and place the pots on. The same kind of fire-place is to be found in the mbures, where a fire is kept burning night and day, which they believe

THE MID-PACIFIC 483

the kalou or spirit requires. The houses generally are not divided by partitions, but at each end they are raised about a foot above the center floor. These elevations are for sleeping, and are covered with lay-ers of mats until they are soft and pleasant to lie on. In sleeping they use a pillow made of a piece of bamboo or other species of wood, about two inches in diameterf with four legs; this is placed immediately under the neck, and is sufficiently high to protect their large head of hair from being disarranged."

The Reverend Thomas Williams, has given in his very interesting and instruc-tive book on this group, the following ac-count of housebuilding there:

"The form of the houses in Fiji is so varied, that a description of a building in one of the windward islands would give a very imperfect idea of those to leeward, those of the former being much the better. In one district a village looks like an as-semblage of square wicker baskets ; in an-other, like so many rustic arbours ; a third seems a collection of oblong hayricks with holes in the sides, while in a fourth these ricks are conical. By one tribe just enough framework is built to receive the covering for the walls and roofs, the inside of the house being an open space. Another tribe introduces long centre posts, posts half as long to receive the wall-plates, and others still shorter, as quarterings to strengthen the walls ; to these are added tie-beams, to resist the outward pressure of the high-pitched rafters, and along the side is a sub-stantial gallery, on which property is stored. The walls or fences of a house are from four to ten feet high; and, in some cases, are hidden on the outside by the thatch being extended to the ground, so as to make the transverse sections of the building an eternal triangle. The walls range in thick-ness from a single reed to three feet. Those at Lau (windward) have the ad-vantage in appearance ; those at Ra (lee-ward) are the warmest. At Lau the walls of chief's houses are three reeds thick, the

outer and inner rows of reeds being ar-ranged perpendicularly, and the middle horizontally, so as to regulate the neat sennit-work with which they are orna-mented. At Ra, a covering of grass or leaves is used, and the fastenings are vines cut from the woods; at Lau sennit is used for this purpose, and patterns wrought with it upon the reeds in several different colors. A man, master of difficult patterns, is highly valued, and his work certainly pro-duces a beautiful and often artistic effect. Sometimes the reeds within the brass walls are reticulated skilfully with black lines. The door-posts are so finished as to become literally reeded pillars ; but some use the naturally carved stem of the palm-fern in-stead. Fire-places are sunk a foot below the floor, nearly in the center of the build-ing,and are surrounded by a curb of hard wood. In a large house, the hearth is twelve feet square, and over it is a frame supporting one or two floors, whereon pots. and fuel are placed. Sometimes an eleva-tion at one end of the dwelling serves as

—a divan and sleeping place. "Excellent timber being easily procured,

houses from sixty to ninety feet long, by thirty wide, are built, with a framework which, unless burnt, will last for twenty years. The wood of the bread-fruit tree is seldom used; yen the green-heart of India, buabua, very like box-wood, and cevua, bastard sandalwood, being more dur-able. A peculiarity of the Fijian pillar spoils its appearance. Where the capital is looked for, there is a long neck just wide enough to receive the beam it supports. A pillar two feet in diameter is thus cut away at the top to about six inches.

"Ordinary grass houses have no eaves, but there is over the doorway a thick semi-circular projection of fern and grass, form-ing a pent. Some houses have openings for windows. The doorways are generally so low as to compel those who enter to stoop. The answer to my inquiry why they were so, often reminded me of Proverbs xvii, 19: "He that raiseth high

484 THE MID-PACIFIC

his gate seeketh destruction." Although the Fijian has no mounted Arab to fear, he has often foes equally subtle, to whom a high doorway would give facility for many a murderous visit.

"Temples, dwelling-houses, sleeping-houses, kitchens, (Lau) inns or receiving houses for strangers and yam stores are the buildings of Fiji.

"For thatching, long grass, or leaves of the sugar-cane and stone palm, are used. The latter are folded in rows over a reed, and sewn together, so as to be used in lengths of four or six feet, and made a very durable covering. The leaves of the sugar-cane are also folded over a reed; but this is done on the roof, and cannot be re-moved, as the other may, without injury. The grass or reed thatch is laid on in rather thin tiers, and fastened down by long rods, found ready for use in the mangrove for-ests, and from ten to twenty feet long, and secured to the rafters by split rattans. Some very good houses are covered first with the cane leaves, and then with the grass, forming a double thatch. Some-times the eaves are made two feet thick with ferns, and have a good effect; but, when thicker, they look heavy, and, by re-taining the wet, soon rot.

"A more animated scene than the thatch-ing of a house in Fiji cannot be conceived. When a sufficient quantity of material has been collected round the house, the roof of which has been previously covered with a net-work of reeds, from forty to three hun-dred men and boys are assembled, each being satisfied that he is expected to do some work, and each determined to be very noisy in doing it. The workers within pair with those outside, each tying what another lays on. When all have taken their places, and are getting warm, the calls for grass, and lashings, and the ans-wers, all coming from two or three hun-dred excited voices of all keys, intermixed with stamping down the thatch, and shrill cries of exultation from every quarter, make a miniature Babel, in which the Fijian—a notorious proficient in nearly

every variety of halloo, whoop and yell—fairly outdoes himself. All that is excel-lent in material or workmanship in the chief's houses, is seen to perfection and in unsparing profusion in the mbure or temple."

I think my reader will agree with me that Mr. Williams has given us a very complete account of the Fijian house and its building; I can hear the noise of its builders as I recall similar scenes in the Hawaiian Islands and elsewhere in the Pa-cific—the Fijian has no monopoly of noise, and if he can beat a modern Hawaiian game of "bawl" I am much mistaken. Dr. Pickering is right in his estimate of the artistic tendencies and even achievements of this interesting group of cannibals, for this they certainly were when they in some former day contrived the plan and form of their houses which possess at least one prime requisite of true Art, pleasing and satisfying to a cultured mind. There is but one tribe in the Pacific that can con-test the supremacy in architecture with them, and this too is a people of inveterate cannibalistic tastes, the Maori of New Zealand. I have elsewhere called attention to the curious fact that anthropophagous people seem to produce the most elaborate crnamentation, and here I must add to their credit the most artistic housebuilding. If the Fijian excels in beauty of form and proportion, the Maori excites our surprise and pleasure in his carved work, which as used in housebuilding seems to take the lead.

There is a chapter of Fijian housebuild-ing that has been omitted from all the ac-counts already quoted, but which I do not propose to skip, for the matter is also a part of Hawaiian practise as well ; I refer to the human sacrifice usual at the planting of the corner posts (or at least of one) of any important building, whether it be for the use of the gods or of the chiefs. I quote an author thoroughly cognizant of Vitian customs, Lorimer Fison:

"The V oko sombu-nindura, literally, the "lowers of the post," were men killed when

THE MID -PACIFIC 485

the corner-posts of a heathen temple, or a great chief's house, were lowered into the holes dug for them. The god in whose honor the temple was being erected, or the chief whose house was building, would be dishonored if no human life were taken when the posts were set up ; and it used to be of no uncommon occurrence for a living man to be placed standing in each post-hole, and there buried alive by the side of the post, the hole being filled up and the earth rammed down upon him. But a few years ago there were houses in Fiji, on whose floor the babe and its mother slept, and little children played, while within hand-reach underground grim skeletons stood embracing the corner posts with their fleshless arms. It is even probable that there are houses 'of this description still standing at the present day. At the root of this horrible practise we may doubtless

recognize the once widespread superstition that the sacrifice of a human victim, when a foundation was being laid, propitiated the gods and secured the stability of the building."

In another place Mr. Fison tells of an old chief in a corner of whose dwelling were buried some fifteen of his children, most of them murdered by their father, so it would seem unlikely that these people had arrived at the luxury of a haunted house! It will be noticed that with ex-ception of the last victim, the offerings were eaten, not simply offered to the gods.

Lest this custom of the Pacific Island-ers, which shocks the modern feelings, should be considered a mark of especial depravity or hardness of heart, let me state that even in Christian countries and in the case of Christian churches the survival of this human sacrifice is a matter of history.

A Fijian mountain home.

•

486 THE MID-PACIFIC

•

An idol of old Hawaii.

•

What Hawaii Owes to the Missionaries

By ROWLAND B. DODGE An address before the A. M. A. in New Haven.

• •

TEN years ago a unique introduc-tion was given me, when I be-gan my work on the Island of

Maui. I was travelling horseback through one of the outer districts, hav-ing come upon one of the old grass houses still remaining there. I chanced-to look up as I was riding down a slippery stone path, and there on the bank above, outside the grass house, I saw an old woman sitting. Her crumpled up form and the grayness of her hair attracted me, as well as her pleasant face, and I dismounted and

went up to her and said, "I want to meet you," and she, turning, said, "Who are you ?" I told her, and her reply I shall never forget—"I am so glad to see once more a God-man be-fore I die." She was over a hundred years old and she knew the mission-aries of the American Board. She was rejoicing that a successor to those early missionaries had been once more sent into her home Island of Maui.

Nearly 100 years ago a great meet-ing was held at Park Street Church, Boston, when the first band o4 Hawaii-

487

488 THE MID-PACIFIC

an missionaries was given their fare-well. Hiram Bigham, Asa Thurston, two school teachers, a printer, a physici-an, a farmer and their wives, together with three Hawaiian youths formed that first little band that went to the great work. It took until March 30th to sail around Cape Horn and to reach those islands, which on your world map are mere dots on the Pacific—a territory smaller than the State of New Jersey. There were no bridges between these islands. Imagine the hardships of those early missionaries who had to travel in small boats under the charge of natives, taking more than two days and two nights between the islands !

After a little more than two years those missionaries were speaking in the Hawaiian language to the native congregations. Vast audiences gathered throughout all the islands at that time, and the missionaries had a wonderful response. Two years later Princess Kapiolani went down into the great pit of Kilauea, the greatest volcano of the world, and there defied Pele, the god-dess of fire. I myself have stood over that crater and have gazed upon twenty acres of molten fire only two hundred feet below me. That brave woman picked ohelo berries, sacred to Pele, and threw these and stones into that pit—the greatest defiance possible—and then said, "Jehovah made these fires. I fear not Pele. Great is the goodness of Jehovah in sending missionaries to turn us from these vanities to the living God."

A great ingathering from that day until 1841 took place among the na-tives of Hawaii, 35,000 people out of the total population of 200,000 were baptized, after two years of probation, and enrolled in the churches. I have seen the records in some instances where tlip names were kept for several years before the missionaries were will-

ing to enroll them. But when the in-coming took place the missionaries could not sleep by night nor eat by day be-cause of the thousands of inquirers. The baptism of those thousands was one of the greatest and grandest sights in missionary history. After that wonderful event the American Board, which had been supported, as you know, by all denominations in New England, became the parent of the denominational boards of many other sects. This was because the first great victory for mis-sions had been won in the Pacific !

In the year 1870 the American Board felt that a great work had been done in Hawaii, and during the last thirty-five years and more, the Ameri-can Missionary Association and the Ha-waiian Board of Missions have been gradually taking up and carrying on the work of the American Board. There are some great results from those early days.

I was very much amused to hear a representative from California say that the greatest gifts per member in our nation were given in his State—four dollars apiece. We in Hawaii can beat that sum by four times—fifteen or six-teen dollars a member is the amount given by Christians in Hawaii each year. Furthermore that sum becomes multiplied two and three times ; yes, and four times in certain years, for our schools and for our missionary work. Think of it ! Where can that record be beaten anywhere in the world ? A few years ago when our government saw fit to meddle with sugar, one man in Hawaii took a large amount of money from his reserve that he might save our missionary work from a point from which we could never have built it up again. And one of my friends gives 90 per cent of his income. Let me tell you of a part-Hawaiian who refused to put new shoes on his feet

THE MID-PACIFIC 489

or paint his house in order that he might give fifteen hundred dollars in three years to build up the churches in his region. Giving? Why, they give until it hurts, and the people keep on giving no matter what the proportion may be of your gifts to theirs. I tell you there is devotion in Hawaii today, a devotion that sent members of one of our churches with their pick axes and shovels to build a road through the lava in order to get the lumber and cement hauled up to repair their church building.

Consecration is required of our work-ers even to some self-denial. We mis-sionaries cannot take a glass of beer in Hawaii, and we ought not to smoke either. One of the honored members in this Council today had an interesting experience on a visit to Haleakala, the greatest mountain on our island, ten thousand feet high with a crater big enough for the whole City of New York to be dumped into it. This brother minister from the mainland was treated most kindly by a Japanese to whom he offered money by way of thanking him. This the Japanese re-fused. Then the minister took a good cigar out of his pocket. The Japanese shook his head and said : "Me no smoke ; me Christian.."

Patience is also needed. I have sat for six hours at a time in a little church fifteen feet wide by twice that length, debating with the members whether to raise the walls two or six inches when the building was being re-paired. I have had to sleep out of doors many a time at night, and often on the floor. I can fully sympathize with the experience of Jacob when a stone felt comfortable as a pillow.

In the great missionary heritage there, one of the remarkable facts is that all our work is union. The rea-

son is this. In the early days the American Board was supported by all denominations. That work was abso-lutely union and was caring for people of all sects, all colors and all tongues in Hawaii. That is the same work that we are doing there today. And if the people in one single church should at-tempt to become Congregational or Presbyterian in name, we would all oppose such an attempt. We have the Roman Catholic, the Episcopal, and the Methodist churches doing missionary work in these islands. The Methodist church was specially invited to come and take care of the Korean work. All the rest of our work in the Ter-ritory is absolutely union ; thirty-six different denominations comprise the Central Union Church of Honolulu. We have six or eight different denom-inations among the workers of our Ha-waiian Board. The heritage of the American Board is that there, in these little islands of the sea, Christians can come from all parts of the world and see absolutely union work carried on. Today as a result of that union effort we have one person out of every twen-ty-two of the population as a member of our union churches, and if from both sides of the ratio we exclude the Japanese, who have the largest propor-tion of the population and are still nominally Buddhists, we have one mem-ber in every seventeen persons—a won-derful record which I challenge you to surpass.

It is very interesting for me to hear friends from California speaking of the glories of that State, but we sent pota-toes and wheat to California in .'48 and .'49.

Yes, we are a part of the United States today, and please refuse to put any more five-cent stamps on your en- velopes to Hawaii. •

490 THE MID-PACIFIC

Tamotoes that are to be shipped long distances are generally picked when they are just beginning to turn a pinkish color and then wrapped singly in thin paper.

To get the best and richest flavor of the tomato, however, it must be full grown and sun-ripened on the vine.

•

The first of the tomatoes.

f.)

The Love-Apple, a Gift of the Pacific

The cultivation and uses of one of the most valuable and widely used foods.

By EDWARD ABLES,

Of the Pan-American Union Staff

• •

AMONG the products for which the civilized world is indebted to America none perhaps ministers

more graciously to the palate of the epicure than does the tomato, that luscious, suc-culent, refreshing vegetable fruit which gratifies the eye with its beauty of color and form, stills hunger with its meat and assuages thirst with its juice.

There is no doubt that the tomato is indigenous to America. Exactly where it originated is a mooted question. The name seems to be of Aztec origin, given by some as "tomatl" and by others as "xitomate." The word still exists in names of Mexican towns, such as Tomatlan, Tomatepec, etc. Humboldt states that the plant was cultivated for its fruit by

the Mexican natives long before the Spanish conquest, while Alphonse de Candolle, in his Origin of Cultivated Plants, arrives at the conclusion that the plant and its culture for edible purposes originated in Peru, and thence spread to other sections of the Americas. At any rate, it had been known and cultivated extensively in these countries for cen-turies before the Columbian discovery, and there is little dout that many of the plants seen and described by the Euro-pean invaders as wild species were really cultivated varieties originated by the In-dians by crossing of selected species.

Botanically, the common tomato be-longs to the order Solanacae and the genus Lycopersicum, the specie which is

491

492 THE MID-PACIFIC

usually cultivated for food purposes be-ing named esculentum. The designation of the genus, derived from Lykos, a wolf, and persica, a peach, had its origin in the supposed aphrodisiacal qualities and in the real beauty of the fruit of the vegetable.

The commonly cultivated varieties may be classified under the botanical name of Lycopersicum esculentum, and it is this group that is by far the most important from an agricultural and commercial point of view. In western South America, es-pecially along the littoral of Peru, a wild variety of Lycopersicum is indigenous. It differs from other recognized species in being more compact in growth, with fewer branches and larger leaves, and carries an immense burden of fruit borne in large clusters. The fruit is larger than that of the other species, but much smaller than our cultivated sorts. It is very irregular in shape, always with dis-tinct sutures and often deeply corrugated, and is of a bright red color. The walls are thin ; the flesh is soft, with a distinct sharp acid flavor less agreeable than the cultivated forms of the common tomato. Like L. cerasiforme and L. pyriforme it it quite fixed under cultivation, except when crossed with other species or with garden varieties, and very likely this is the original species from which our cul-tivated varieties have been developed by crossing and selection.

That the cultivated tomato was known to European botanists over 360 years ago is evidenced by the fact that Matthiolus described two varieties, one a large yel-low called "Golden Apple," and another red variety, known as "Love Apple," in 1554. In 1700 Tournefort described a large smooth variety, which closely re-sembles the well-known "Livingston's Stone" of today, and a careful study of old descriptions and cuts, compared with the best examples of modern varieties, would indiwte that tomatoes as large and smooth as those we now grow had been

developed before they came into general use in the United States and before the fruit was generally known to Europeans.

Throughout southern Europe the value of the fruit for use in soups and as a salad seems to have been recognized at an early date. It was quite generally used in Spain and Italy during the seven-teenth century. In England and in north-ern Europe generally the plant was grown in botanical gardens and in a few pri-vate places as a curiosity and for orna-mental purposes. It was seldom eaten, being commonly regarded as unhealthy and even posionous, its fruit being sup-posed to have aphrodisiacal qualities. This belief probably arose from the close re-semblance of the plant to the nightshade, or belladonna, of the genus solanum, and, of course, had no foundation in fact. It was not until the early part of the nine-teenth century that the tomato came into general use as a food in northern Eu-rope and even in the United States. In Virginia it was grown as early as 1781 for culinary use, but the efforts of a Frenchman to introduce it in Philadel-phia as an edible product in 1788 were unsuccessful. The first record of the fruit being regularly quoted in an Ameri-can market was in New Orleans in 1812, while the earliest records of the seed be-ing offered for sale by seedsmen as those of an edible vegetable was in 1818. From about 1835, however, the use and culti-vation of the tomato increased constantly until now it has become one of the most largely grown of all our garden vege-tables.

The tomato may be described as a short-lived perennial with its span of life somewhat variable. Under favorable con-ditions it will develop from seed to ripe fruit stage in from 85 to 120 days of full sunshine with a constant day tempera-ture of from 75 to 90 degrees F., and no more than 20 degrees lower at night. The plants will ordinarily continue in full fruit for 50 or 60 days, after which

THE MID-PACIFIC 493

they generally become so exhausted by excessive production of fruit and the effects of diseases to which they are sub-ject that they die from starvation. Un-der some conditions, however, particularly in the Gulf States of the United States and in California, they will not only grow to abnormal size, but will contiue to bear fruit longer. A plant grown in Pasadena, Cal., was said to have been in constant bearing for over 10 months. Again, sometimes plants that have pro-duced a full crop will start new sets of roots, branches, and leaves, and will pro-duce a second and even a third crop.

The roots of the tomato plant, while abundant, are short and can only gather food and water from a limited area. The plant of the garden bean, for instance, is only about half the size of the tomato plant, but its roots extend to a greater distance, gather plant food from a larger area, and seem better able to search out the particular food element needed than do those of the tomato. This character-istic of the latter plant makes the compo-sition of the soil as to the proportion of easily available food elements a matter of great importance. Since the roots are exceedingly tender and incapable of pene-trating a hard and compact soil, the con-dition of tilth is of greater importance than with most garden vegetables.

The growth of the stem and leaves of the young tomato plant is very rapid and the cellular structure coarse, loose, and open. A young branch is easily bro-ken and shows scarcely any fibrous struc-ture, being composed of a mass of cellu-lar matter which, while capable of trans-mitting nutritive matter rapidly when young, soon becomes clogged and inert. This structure not only makes the active life of the leaves short, but necessitates a fresh growth in order to continue the fruitfulness of the plant and renders the leaves very susceptible to injury from bacterial and fungous diseases. The rapid

growth also necessitates an abundance of sunlight.

The fruit of the original species from which the cultivated varieties have been developed was doubtless a small berry with two or more cells and comparatively dry central placenta and thin walls. It has improved under cultivation by increase in size, the material thickening of cell walls, the development of greater juici-ness and richer flavor, and a decrease 'n the ,size and dryness of the placenta, as well as the breaking up of the cells by fleshy partitions, resulting in the disap-pearance of the deep sutures and an im-provement in the smoothness and beauty of the fruit.

The quality of the fruit is largely de-pendent upon varietal differences, but is also greatly influenced by conditions of growth, such as character of the soil, the proper supply of moisture, the degree and uniformity of temperature, and, above all, the amount of sunlight. Sudden changes of temperature and moisture often result in cracks and fissures. in the skin and flesh, which not only injure the ap-pearance but affect the flavor of the fruit. Abundant and unobstructed sunlight is the most essentil condition for the healthy growth of the tomato. It is a native of the sunny South, and will not thrive ex-cept in full and abundant sunlight. The blossoms often fail to set, and the fruit is lacking in flavor because of shade from excessive leaf growth or other obstruction.

The plant thrives best out of doors in a dry temperature of 75 to 85 de-grees F., or even as high as 95 degrees F., if the air is not too dry and is in gentle circulation. The rate of growth diminishes as the temperature falls below 75 degrees until at 50 degrees there is practically no growth. If the growth, es-pecially in young plants, is thus checked for any considerable time, they will never produce a full crop of fruit, even if the plants reach full size and art" seemingly vigorous and healthy. The plant is gen-

494 THE MID—PACIF1C

THE MID-PACIFIC 495

erally killed by exposure to freezing tem-perature for even a short time.

Although the tomato is not a desert, plant and needs a plentiful supply of water, it suffers far more frequently from an oversupply than from the want of water. Good drainage at the root and warm, dry, sunny air in gentle motion are its necessities. Drainage is essen-tial not only to the best growth of the plant,• but to the production of a good quality of fruit. While excess of water in the soil is most injurious to the young and growing plant, an abundance of it at the time the fruit swells and ripens is very essential and a want of it at that time results in small and imperfect fruit of poor flavor.

The tomato, as has been stated, is of tropical origin, and its culture has spread to practically all of the Latin American countries. Only in a few of them, how-ever, has the industry developed to such an extent as to make the tomato an ex-portable product. Recent advices from Chile state that among the fruits and vegetables shipped from Valparaiso to Liverpool and to New York were fresh tomatoes. Since the shipping of fruits and fresh vegetables long distances has been made practicable by the improve-ment of refrigerating compartments in modern steamships, tomatoes which ripen-in February and March in Chile can easily reach the New York market weeks before the Bermuda, Texas, or Florida crop is available, and bring high prices.

Tomatoes ripen and color from within outward and will acquire full and often superior color, if, as soon as they have reached the full size and the ripening pro-cess has fairly commenced, they are picked and spread out in the sunshine. The point of ripeness when then can be safely picked is indicated by the surface color changing from a dark green to one of lighter shade with a light tinge of pink. Tomatoes picked at this stage of ma-turity may be wrapped separately in

paper and shipped 1000 or more miles, and when unwrapped at their destination after a journey of from two to ten days will be found to have acquired a beauti-ful color, frequently more brilliant than if they had been left to ripen on the vine. However, the tomato never acquires its full and most perfect flavor except when ripened on the vine and in full sun-light. The color of the tomato is often determined by the character of the skin. As an instance, the flesh of the purple varieties and that of the deep red is iden-tical in color, but the skin of the former is transparent, while the skin of the red varieties has a yellow underlay through which the purple flesh appears red.

In the production of fruit the tomato plant is remarkable. The total yield of fruit runs from 200 to 700 bushels to the acre, a 200-bushel crop of tomatoes comparing as to amount with one of 25 bushels of wheat. The largest yields that have come under personal observa-vation ranged from 1000 to 1200 bushels to the acre, two-thirds of these crops be-ing of prime market quality and the rest suitable for canning purposes. Of the total yield of an average crop from 10 to 25 per cent of the fruit should be such as can be sold as extras in the fresh vege-table markets, 5 to 10 per cent is usually unsaleable, and the remainder suited to canning or preserving purposes. Selected fruit nets from $1 to $5 a bushel, accord-ing to its earliness in the market and the excellence of the fruit ; the common or ordinary fruit for the market will bring from 35 to 75 cents, while that for canning purposes will bring from 10 to 25 cents per bushel.

As an edible vegetable the tomato is used in many ways. In its fresh or raw state it is sliced and eaten as a salad, its succulent, slightly acid, and deliciously flavored pulp as well as the juice-envel-oped seeds making it one of the most desirable relishes known to the modern epicure. For cooking purposes it can be

496 THE MID-PACIFIC

stewed, baked, or broiled alone or in combination with other vegetables, while as an ingredient in soups, stews, and sauces it is without a peer. As a condi-ment tomato catsup is used in almost every part of the civilized world, its spicy flavor whetting the appetite and making even the toughest and driest of meats desirable, while the green fruit is often made into an excellent pickle. The value of the tomato as a food product lies not so much in its nutritive qualities as in the delicious flavor and succulence, which make other foods with which it is combined so much more palatable.

When a successful process for preserv-ing the fruit in cans was evolved the to-mato growing industry at once assumed much larger proportions. It was found that for all cooking purposes the canned fruit was practically as good as that fresh from the vine, and as a result the to-mato has become a staple food the year round and millions of dollars are invested in canning factories whose chief output consists of tomatoes.

In the introductory paragraphs of this article it was stated that not only does the tomato still hunger with its meat,

but that it assuages thirst with its juice. Particularly is this true of the canned to-mato. During the late little misunder-standing between the United States and Spain, when the American troops were in certain sections of Cuba, they experienced great difficulty in procuring drinkable wa-ter. When the pangs of thirst had be-come almost unbearable someone happily remembered that there is much juice in canned tomatoes. The commissary de-partment at once became busy, the cans of tomatoes were cooled and then opened, and the invaders were immediately pro-vided with a refreshing, delicious, and healthy drink as well as food. Since then the canned tomato forms one of the necessary adjuncts to the provisions for journeys in desert places and in sections where good drinking water is scarce, and few indeed are the isolated places on this old earth of ours to which the fes-tive tomato can is a stranger. Wherever the wandering steps of civilized man may take him, the canned tomato goes with him, being an assurance to his mind, a gratification to his physical being, and

altogether a "joy forever."

Growing tomatoes.

74004tOMM4OPOr'

The Honolulu Daily Press

NEW HOTEL George R. Carter 110[11111 PRATE II Central Figures. In The PLANNED IN er MAY BE MINUS fl Present Mexican Crisis

HONOLULU HIS POSITION' WenyFounded Report Slates

That W. G. truin's Property Is Site •

HERTSCHE WILL GO TO MAINLAND ON DETAILS

,ormer Hanauer at Local Houses Admits He Has Plan

to Care for Tourists

•;„;;1—

Governor Reticent About Oak- mg President at Board of

Health Appointment ---

NEW CHIEF EXECUTIVE MAT MAKE SELECTION

Law May Con71;1locuntent to Vacate Cake Within the

Next Few Hours

ADVERTISING SECTION

Newest home of the oldest newspaper of the Pacific. Offices and print shop of the Pacifie .commergial'Advertiser; founded 1856, at 217. South King Street,

Honolulu, T. H.--The morning newspaper.

ottolutu utirtiniEdi3tOnil fueoliolal,on

'T:cirreZn0

12 1,01,1 /l■ 1,0, reuttrroxv 03 “313311. 01:03301,1. 01:0' v03.- 13 Po0E12 vivo rEtrio

WILSON FORCING HUERTA TO MOVE LIND, IN MEXICO CITY,

IS OPTIMISTIC NOW FOR PEACE BETWEEN COUNTRIES

Full Reply From 111;erta Awaited in Washington Before Further Develop-

ntents--Vote of Confidence in President Blocked iu House

Diggs Case Goes to Jury; Wrong, Not Crime, Admitted

MAY BE NEEDED BAD IhMENT Flaii,F,4 e, ..........

,,t-a- ",:,.., The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Hawaii's evening newspaper with the largest circulation

of any periodical in the Territory.

- C. Atherton Again 5 Nomi nated for the Vice.

Presidency

CONVENTION TO "--:= RELIEVES MAIL MAKE PLATFORM DELAY DUE TO

'Congressman Harrison Named Philippine Governor-General

oI•el,^•,-

THE MID-PACIFIC

Honolulu from the Trolley Car

Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Rapid Transit Company.

You may take the electric tram as you step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and for five cents ride for hours—if you wish to take transfers—to almost every part of this wondrously beautiful city and its suburbs.

There appeared in the Mid-Pacific Magazine for January, 1915, an article telling of a hundred sights to be seen from the street cars.

At one end of the King street car line is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, from which may be seen the cane lands and rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter is the Bishop Museum, having the most re-markable Polynesian collection in the world. At the other end of the line is Kapiolani Park, a beautiful tropical garden, in which is located tille famous aquarium of Hawai-ian fishes, rivaled only by the aquarium in Naples.

Transfer are given to branch lines penetrating Jever al of the wonderfully

beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono-lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki on the heights behind Diamond Head, which is now a great fortress ; in fact, the entire day may be spent with profit on the car lines. At Waikiki often may be seen from the cars men and boys dis-porting themselves on their surfboards, as they come in standing before the waves on these little bits of wood.

The cars in Honolulu are all open, for the temperature never goes below 68 degrees, nor does it rise above 85 de-grees, and there is always a gentle trade wind stirring.

When Honolulu was ready for her electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid Transit & Land Co. completed the most perfect system of its kind in the world, and it is always a delight to ride smooth-ly over its lines.

It is but twenty minutes by car to Waikiki beach and but five minutes longer, by the same car, to the wonderful aquarium in Kapiolani Park.

HNOLOLU NORP AL 5Cti001. SCALL

r • .$

PRE9UaD AID CCPYMOHTED

W I LLIST. POPE,

11,lhalt1 vglior ilikoart9030 Ft

Population aver. 60,000 People

Distance foo Cahlon114 210. Milts ,Isdrec ' tor Japan 3#od Milts

9,daw fran44strAfigq410'1445 Governronf Road gramd 1514nd

class Rddrdad 5,,ster Srio Crop for 1907

THE MID-PACIFIC 3

KANEOrt:

BAY

PT OTC c

140HOLLat

The Island of Oahu, more than half the size of Rhode Island, may be motored around in a day with stops at Coral Gardens, Waiahole Tavern, Hauula

Hotel, Haleiwa and the Wahiawa Hotel.

There are no more delightful outings in the world than those from Honolulu to the "Round Oahu" resorts. Automobiles and auto-busses make daily trips to and from the delightful hotels on the seashore and in the mountains.

On Sundays the big busses of the Island Sightseeing Company leave from the Pan-Pacific corner, Fort and Merchant Streets, for round-the-island trips and runs to the hotel resorts of Oahu. These busses may also be engaged at very reasonable rates for parties of from 20 to 30 passengers. The Trail and Mountain Club, phone is 2989, Gr a call at the Pan-Pacific Club rooms, cor-ner Fort and Merchant streets, phone con-nection with all the round-the-island hotels.

Going around the island, over the Pali, just twelve miles or an hour from Hono-lulu is Kaneohe Bay and Coral Gardens Hotel, $3.00 a day, phone Blue 612. Noon dinner, $1.00. Trip in glass-bottom boat to the wonderful Coral Gardens, 50 cents. Rates at the Coral Garden per week, $17.50 with splendid fishing and swim-ming as well as good living.

Six miles further is Waiahole Tavern, $3.00 a day; lunches, 75 cents. This ideal

resort is on high land near the sea, and but forty minutes' walk from Waiahole Tunnel and the trail over the mountains. There is a swimming pool on the grounds of the Waiahole Tavern, phone 0.554.

Thirty-one miles from Honolulu, nes-tled at the foot of the mountains, but on the sea, is Hauula Hotel, rates $3.00 a day ; chicken dinner at midday, $1.25. Less than three miles away are the Sacred Falls of Kaliuwaa Canyon. The hotel is also on the line of the railway ; the usual stopping place at lunch time of the round-the-island parties. Phone White 0782.

Thirty miles from Honolulu by auto, fifty-six miles by rail, is the Haleiwa Hotel, $3.50 a day, lunch $1.00. Phone Blue 0932.

In the center of the pineapple district, between two mountain ranges and 1000 feet above the sea is the Wahialfa Hotel, twenty miles from Honolulu, an hour's run over good roads. Good swimming and

onderful bass fishing, with ideal possible tramps in the mountains. Rates $2.50 a day, $15.00 a week, lunches 50 cents. Phone Blue 0393.

Map by courtesy of the Inter-Island Strain Navigation Company.

Among the Hawaiian Islands rd

HAWAIIAN I 9 LA ND S Scale / irch=Potwoo Fed,

Cow/zed/Sr /le Naar./ AbattAws atesgeOss By hf E 1903.

R? Niles

MOLOKAI

N

ROUT ME RIGA

THE MID-PACIFIC

The Island of Hawaii is about the size of the State of Connecticut; the area of all the islands is about two-thirds that of Belgium.

STEAMSHIP SERVICE. From Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu,

to and from the Island of Maui, there is almost daily service, either by way of Kahului on the lee side of Maui, or on the windward side, at Lahaina, there being splendid auto services between the two.

Twice a week there are sailings from Honolulu for the Big Island of Hawaii.

Communication between the islands of Hawaii is maintained by the splendid and frequent steamers of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co. Ltd.

THE HALEAKALA TRIP.

Mondays and Fridays there is a boat leaving Honolulu for Kahului, Maui, at 5:00 in the afternoon—fare $6 each way, a pleasant night's ride, and from Kahului on Wednesday arid Saturday afternoons the same steamer (S. S. "Claudine") sails for Honolulu . • This is the most conven-ient boat for trips to Haleakala and the famous .Koolau Ditch Trail. The Mon-day boat from Honolulu touches at many Maui ports.

THE KAUAI CANYONS At 5 :15 P. M. every Tuesday there is

a large boat (S. S. "Kinau") leaving Honolulu for Kauai ports, a night's ride, and on the return leaving Waimea, Kauai, at 10 A. M. Saturdays, affording oppor-

FI

tunity for a visit to the famous canyons of Kauai and the Barking Sands. Fare each way $6. The "W. G. Hall," a smaller steamer, leaves Honolulu every Thursday at 5 P. M. Returning leaves Nawiliwili, Kauai, every Tuesday at 5 P. M.

THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. The flagship of the Inter-Island fleet

leaves Honolulu every • Wednesday and Saturday for Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, from whence a visit to .Kilauea is made, and from whence a tour of the largest of the Hawaiian Islands may be begun. Fare to Hilo, each way, $12.50; by rail and auto to volcano, about $5.00 return; rates at Volcano House, about $6 a day.

The main offices of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co., Ltd., are on Queen Street, Honolulu ; phone No. 4941.

The Island of Maui •■••••••■•■•■••■•MNIII.1■■•■••••■■••■•■ ••111.111.1•■••■•••■•■■•••■•••••••■•■■■

HONOLULU

: - P AN CO,' •

WILLI5 T PC"..

AALAEA

MAUI Area in 5I0tute

1

n

v11e ■:l !Lengr.h4Z1ble; 3rith30tie

flhe,t1:1GIinn1"3 Feet ar est EPiaci

Crater Populati on over 25,0

In ineWarin , ver 2.6, 00

4..49nce from Hanoi I

f 7446 yer Sugar PI

ap for 19o1 41,:fJes .

PUL

THE MID-PACIFIC

5

Map by courtesy of illexander & Baldwin, Ltd.

The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., (known by everyone as "A. & B.") is looked upon as one of the most progressive American corporations in Hawaii.

Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents for the largest sugar plantation of the Ha-waiian Islands and second largest in the world, namely, the Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company at Puunene, Maui. They are also agents for many other plan-tations and concerns of the Islands, among which are the Haiku Sugar Company, Paia. Plantation, Maui Agricultural Company, Hawaiian Sugar Company, McBryde Sugar Company, Ltd., Kahului Railroad Com-pany, Kauai Railroad Company, Ltd., lIonolua Ranch.

This firm ships a larger proportion of the total sugar crop of the Hawaiian Islands than any other agency.

In addition to their extensive sugar plan-tations, they are also agents for the follow-ing well-known and strong insurance com-panies:

Springfield Fire & Marine Ins. Co., American Central Insurance Co.,

The Home Insurance Co. of New York, The New Zealand Insurance Co., General A. F. & L. Assurance C?rpor-

ation, , German Alliance Insurance Association, Switzerland Marine Insurance Co., Ltd. The offices of this large and progressive

firm, all of whom are staunch supporters of the Pan-Pacific and other movements which are for the good of Hawaii, are as follows: J. P. Cooke President W. M. Alexander First Vice-Pres. J. R. Galt Second Vice-Pres. W. 0. Smith Third. Vice-Pres. John Waterhouse Treasurer John Guild Secretary With H. A. Baldwin, F. C. Atherton, A. L. Castle and C. R. Hemenway as addi- tional directors. •

Besides the home office in the Stangen-wald Building, Honolulu, Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., maintain extensive offices in Seattle, in the Melhorn Building; in New York at 82 Wall St., and in the Alaska Commercial Building, San Francisco.

6 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents for the American-Hawaiian,

and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines.

THE MID-PACIFIC

7

Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.

The Island of Hawaii is about

The soil of Hawaii is of a character that requires fertilization to a great extent. When one speaks of the fertilizer business of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Co. The majority of the sugar and pineapple plantations are sup-plied by this company. A very large con-cern today, the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Co. is the outgrowth of a small industry which followed the discovery of rich guano deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits have been so depleted that the company now secures its supply from other Pacific islands, and at the same time it is a large importer of other articles used in the manufacture of

twice the size of Delaware.

fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia from England, nitrates from Chile, and potash salts from Germany, while tons of sulphur are brought direct from Japan to the works. It costs, ordinarily, fifty dollars an acre to fertilize pineapple lands, unless it is the fertilizer from the Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Co. that is used, when the ex-pense is cut in half. If you need fertilizer for your garden or your plantation, call up Phone No. 1585, and the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Co. will gladly advise you, mak-ing a chemical analysis of the soil, if neces-sary, and mixing the fertilize!' in accord with the demands of the soil.

IIONCR! IIC4iIIAL5t1i0Ot 614,t Of MILES

MAU* i lo Slot& 5psoro Miles 54-7

TWIllAt9 4.1 VA MI le: Ali ss OHN1 Elevation 515c Fsr.r no* from tio401.tu 98 t1114

ulolion °oar 72t,aoa Pooplo a large 51.slor Plantations

f04-4107,-.1"-.740P te.4

8

THE MID-PACIFIC

The island of Kauai TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN.

The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be-tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining pa-latial ocean greyhound service between San Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle & Cooke, Ltd.

This, one of the oldest firms in Hono-lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Hono-lulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company. The adjoining of-fices are used by the firm for their busi-ness as sugar factors and insurance agents. Phone 1251.

Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for many of the plantations throughout Ha-waii, and here may be secured much varied information. Here also the tourist may se-cure in the folder racks, booklets and pam-phlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean.

,,,C001,4"R

5£477 E.

/ 7/4(7F/C

YOKOHAMA k

HAWAIIAN Pt15( OS F1,

moticloNG 996/ M

4 • a(10/4‘

./ 0 40srpser 3/1.07(LA/V0

c;oo1;ort ti of awairanIk'' Islands

Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd.

THE LIGHTING OF HONOLULU.

In Honolulu the outlying districts are rapidly becoming connected with the gas system of mains. The modern gas mantles now make lighting by gas the most bril-liant and satisfying of all methods; and this at a minimum cost. In fact, so cheap is gas in Honolulu that it is used very ex-tensively for cooking. The cost averages a dollar for a thousand feet.

The Honolulu Gas Company maintains extensive exhibition rooms at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets, where the cars of two sections pass the doors, and where every new appliance in gas fixtures for lighting or cooking purposes may be studied, or members of the office force will explain their advantages. The latest gas appliance inverition does the family washing automatically and should be seen at the Alakea Street exhibition rooms.

THE MID-PACIFIC 9

10

THE MID-PACIFIC

THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU. Honolulu still relies for building ma-

terial on the mainland. For many years the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained its own line of clipper schooners that brought down lumber from Puget Sound with which to "build Hawaii." Today this firm occupies its own spacious block on King Street, where every necessity need-ed for building the home is supplied. In fact, often it is this firm that guarantees the contractor, and also assures the owner that his house will be well built and com-pleted on time. Things are done on a large scale in Hawaii; so it is that one firm undertakes to supply material from the breaking of ground until the last coat of paint is put on the completed building. A spacious and splendidly equipped hardware department is one of the features of Lewers & Cooke's establishment.

1111111136C

n GOP

THE MID-PACIFIC

11

Electric Lighting in Honolulu

The general offices on King Street.

THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC CO.

In Honolulu electricity costs ten cents per kilowatt, for the first two kilowatts per month per lamp, and six cents thereafter. From the Hawaiian Electric Company plant, power is furnished to the

pineapple canneries (the largest canneries

in the world) to the extent of seven hun-

dred horse power, with another two hun-dred and fifty horse power to the Federal Wireless Station fifteen miles distant, be-sides current for lighting all private resi-dences in Honolulu, as well as for operat-ing its own extensive ice plant. A line is now being built to furnish linght and power to the great army post at Schofield Bar-racks, twenty miles distant from Honolulu.

The power house and ice plant.

12 THE MID-PACIFIC

TRTST CO.. LTD.

THE TRUST CO. IN HAWAII.

Honolulu was one of the first cities to adopt the idea of the Trust Company. In 1852 Henry Waterhouse began business in Honolulu, and just fifty years later the name of his firmvas changed to the "Henry Waterhouse Trust Company" and this very successful concern continues to occupy the ground floor of the Campbell Block on Fort and Merchant streets. Here was born the first commercial wireless system in the world—that of Hawaii. There are spacious vaults for valuable papers, insur-ance departments, real estate features, and every department common to the up-to-date Trust Company. The Company is also a member of the Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange.

Located in the heart of the business cen-ter of Honolulu, here stock and bonds are exchanged, insurance is issued and every kind of real estate handled, and here, too, is the home of the Kaimuki Land Co., and the agency for the Volcano House at the Crater of Kilauea.

THE MID-PACIFIC

13

The Catton, Neill Building, Honolulu. Also the home of the General Electric Co. in Hawaii.

HOnolulu-: is known around the, world for the manufacture of sugar mill ma chinery. Much of-this-is made- by Catton, Neill & Co., Ltd., Engineers, who build and erect sugar mill machinery. The works are on South Street, Honolulu, while the offices and salesrooms are located in a new concrete building on Alakea and Queen streets, erected recently for this purpose. Here are seen the displays of the General Electric Co., of which Catton, Neill & Co., Ltd., are Hawaiian agents, as well as for the leading gas engines, water wheels, steam plows, pumps, condensers and tools manufactured in the United States. This is one of the oldest engineering firms in Hawaii.

Half a century is an age in the life of Honolulu. The first frame building is not one hundred years old, and the first- hard-ware store, that of E. 0. Hall & Son, Ltd., was not founded until the year 1850, but since then, on the commanding corner of Fort and King streets, it has remained the premier hardware concern in Hawaii. The entire three-story building is taken up with extensive displays of every kind of hardware. One floor, however, is given over to crockery and kitchen utensils, while in the basement even a ship might be fitted out with its hardware, cordage, and roping needs. This company is also agent for the Sherwin-Williams house paints and repre-sents many mainland hardware firms.

E. 0. & Son Building, Fort and King streets.

111.11111111111111

GAL

14 THE MID-PACIFIC

Occupying one of the most prominent corners in the shopping district of Honolulu the Regal Shoe Store, at the corner of Fort and Hotel streets, is a distinct credit to the American progress in these islands. Mr. George A. Brown, the manager of the Regal Shoe Store, is a thorough shoeman and the stock in his store has been carefully selected with a view of meeting the requirements of

the residents of the islands and of tourists. Connected with the store is an up-to-date repair shop, where with the most modern machinery operated by skilled workmen, re-pairs are made in the shortest time con-sistent with good work. Visitors are in-vited to inspect the stock of famous shoes always carried in latest styles at the Regal Shoe Store.

The great women's dry goods department store of B. F. Ehlers & Company, occupies half of the main block on Fort Street. It is the largest and most complete estab-lishment of its kind in Honolulu, and here every kind of dry goods may be found.

THE MID-PACIFIC 15

HOME FERTILIZING.

The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company stores its fertilizers in the largest concrete ware-house west of the Rockies. The works of this company cover several acres near Hono-lulu. The ingredients are purchased in shipload lots, and the formulas adopted by the different plantations for their fertilizers are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Company. Their chemists ana-lyze the soils and suggest the formulas.

For the small planter this company makes special fertilizers, and the gardens of Hono-lulu are kept beautiful by the use of a special lawn fertilizer made by this com-pany. Fertilizing alone has made Hawaii the garden of the Pacific.

H. F. Wichman & Company's jewelry establishment on Fort Street, is one of Honolulu's show places. The gold and sil-verware display is well worth a morning's study.

Hawaii's leading jewelry establishment

16

THE MID-PACIFIC

The Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu has become the model for all semi-tropical Y. M. C. A. buildings. It was designed by Ripley & Davis and erected by the Pacific Engineering Company.

In this building is an up-to-date cafeteria, unexcelled in the city, and open to visiting Y. M. C. A. members. There is also a great cement swimming pool in the open court filled from its own artesian well.

There are dormitories for men, bowling

A MODERN TRUST COMPANY.

The Trent Trust Co., Ltd., organized in 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, now has $158,000 in cash capital and earn-ed surplus, and gross assets of $505,000. The Mutual Building & Loan Society, or-ganized and managed by the same people, has assets in excess of $259,000. The splendid grow* of these concerns has been due td: careful' and conservative manage-

alleys, gymnasium halls, indoor racing tracks, games halls, and all the attractions that athletic men enjoy.

In the evenings the many class rooms are used by students of several nationalities.

The Pacific Engineering Company that erected the Honolulu Y. M. C. A. building also erected steel bridges for the Kahului kailway on the Island of Maui, and those of the Hilo Railway on the Island of Hawaii.

ment and to the unbounded confidence re-posed in them by the people whom they serve. The Trust Company acts as Ex-ecutor and Manager of Estates, Fiduciary . Agent, and as Attorney and Agent of non-residents and others needing such service. Its offices are centers of activity in real estate, rent, insurance and investment cir-cles. The Company is a member of the Honolulu Stock and Bond ExcHange.

THE MID-PACIFIC

17

Banking in Honolulu

The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King Streets, Hono-lulu. This bank is the de-pository in Hawaii of the U. S. Government.

The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, the central bank of Honolulu, wirb a capital, surplus and undivided profits amounting to nearly a million and a half, or more than the total of any other bank in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own magnificent building at the busiest busi-ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and Fort streets; has a savings department and was organized in 1897.

The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has oc-cupied its premises on the corner of Mer-

chant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the islands, and the institution has ever been closely identi-fied with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cock-burn. On June 30, 1915 the deposits with this bank amounted to $9,518,593.45.

The Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort Street, is an old established financial institution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general banking business.

The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., is the most recently incorporated Trust Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its directors and officers are men of ability, integrity and high standing in the com-munity. The Company was incorporated in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, the Capital of the Company was $200,- 000 : Surplus $10,000, and Undivided Profits $22,573.77. It conducts a trust company business in all its various lines with offices in the Stangenwald Building, Merchant St., adjoining Bank of Hawaii.

18

THE MID-PACIFIC

The Tourist's Hawaii

The Alexander Young Hotel (under same management as M oana, Hawaiian and Sea- side Hotels.

The von-Hamm-Young Co., Importers Machinery Merchants and leading auto-mobile dealers, have their offices and store in the Alexander Young Building, at the corner of King and Bishop Streets, and their magnificent automobile salesroom and garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea street. Here one may find almost any-thing. Phone No. 4901.

Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the chief port, and from Hilo excursions are made to all the points of interest. The Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up the matter of home promotion work and is developing the wonderful scenic surround-ings of Hilo. In this line of work the Hilo Board of Trade has the hearty co-operation of the Hilo Railway. This Railway has

recently extended its rails thirty-two miles along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe and beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip is one of the scenic trips of the world. The Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a branch with the Auto Service takes the tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge of the ever active Kilauea. THE BLAISDELL. The newest down town hotel, occupying a block on Fort Street. Splendid rooms from $1.00 a day and $20 a month up. Phone 1267. CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex-press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island and S. S. Co., Honolulu for special' in-clusive excursion rates.

Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937.

THE MID-PACIFIC 19

THE AUTOMOBILE IN HAWAII

The phenomenal growth of the automo-bile industry throughout the United States is reflected in the rapid strides made by the Schuman Carriage Company in the past four years. From a comparatively small beginning the Schuman Carriage Company has grown to be the largest dealers in au-tomobiles and carriages, and all the acces-sories pertaining thereto in the, Territory of Hawaii.

The Schuman Carriage Company; has enlarged its floor space many times, and at the present time has erected, a 'new con-crete building which proves a substantial addition to the 'automobile industry in Ha-waii. It will be pictured in our next issue.

The Schuman Company handle a line of cars which allows the purchaser ample scope for a choice. With the Pierce-Arrow as a high priced leader, the Franklin, Hud-son, Oldsmobile, Studebarker, Chalmers, Overland and Ford can be found on the salesroom floor.

The manufacture of farm wagons, paint-ing of automobiles, automobile tops and seat covers, occupy quite a large amount of floor space in the Schuman establishment, and is in the hands •of the most competent men in that line of work to be found in the Territory.

20

THE MID-PACIFIC

Round About Honolulu

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Streets, is the actual center of life and activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter-section of the tram lines, the shoppers, business men, and tourists await their cars, chatting at the open soda fountain, that is the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here the tourist and stranger is advised as to the sights of the city, and supplied with any perfumes, candies or drugs he may need during his stay. Chambers Drug Store is one of the institutions of Hono-lulu. Phone No. 1291.

The largest of the very fashionable shops in the Alexander Young Building, occupying the very central portion, is that of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest design is kept in stock. Every kind of paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as well as printers' and binders' supplies. There are musical instruments of every kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, and the Angelus Player Piano and this concern is constantly adding new features and new stock. The business man will find his every need in the office supplied by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a call over the phone, and this is true also of the fashionable society leader, whether her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting.

Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh from the oven, the delicious baker's bread and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has the most Pomplete and up to date machin-ery and equipment in the territory.

"Maile" Australian butter from the Metropolitan Meat Market on King

Street, stands at the head for flavor and keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is here you also get the tender meats and fresh vegetables of which an abundant supply is always on hand. Heilbron & Louis, proprietors, have built up a won-derful business until now the Metropolitan Meat Market is the central and popular market place of Honolulu. Phone 3445.

Honolulu is so healthy that people don't usually die there, but when they do they phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, and he arranges the after details. If you are a tourist and wish to be interred in your own plot on the mainland, Williams will embalm you ; or he will arrange all details for interment in Honolulu. Don't leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any other, but if you must, let your friends talk it over with Williams.

Whatever you do, do not fail to visit the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King Street. Early morning is the best time for this, when all the multi-colored fish of Hawaiian waters are presented to view and every nationality of the islands is on parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is the leading spirit and founder of the Oahu Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu-tion of which the city is proud.

A monument to the pluck and energy of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer and manager. This plant at Queen and Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's leading enterprises, doing a flourishing lumber and mill business. THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op-posite the Alexander Young, is the one reasonably priced tourist restaurant. Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian singers and players, and here at every hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable prices the delicacies of the season.

THE MID-PACIFIC

21

The Honolulu Construction and Draying Company has its main offices at 65 Queen Street. This concern has recently absorbed two of the leading express and transfer companies, and has also acquired the Honolulu Lava Brick Company. It is making a success of its enterprises. Phone 4981.

Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort Street is the Office Supply Co., the home of the Remington Typewriter in Hawaii, and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book cases. Every kind of office furniture is kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as well as a complete line of office stationery. There is a repair shop for typewriters, and every necessary article that the man of business might need. Phone 3843.

With the wood that is used for building in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen Street, Phone 2105, have for generations supplied the people of Honolulu and those on the other islands; also their buildings and paints. Their office is on Queen St., near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building, and their lumber yards extend right back to the harbor front, where every kind of hard and soft wood grown on the coast is landed by the schooners that ply from Puget Sound.

Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed rock used in the construction of the mod-ern building in Hawaii. They also main-tain their own stables and drays. Draying in Honolulu is an important business, and Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, and keep drays of every size, sort and de-scription for the use of those who require them. They also conduct a rock crusher and supply wood and coal.

The Mutual Telephone Co. works in close accord with the Marconi Wireless, and controls the wireless service between the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele-

phone service throughout Hawaii. For a dollar and a half, a Night Letter of twenty-five words may be sent to any part of the territory. Honolulu was the first city in the world to install a house-to-house tele-phone system, and Hawaii the first country to commercially install wireless telegraphy.

The City's great furniture store, that or J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. Here the latest styles in home and office furniture arriving constantly from San Francisco are displayed on several spacious floors. Phone No. 2111.

The leading music store in Hawaii is on King and Fort Sts.—The Bergstrom Music Co. No home is complete in Hono-lulu without a ukulele, a piano and a Victor talking machine. The Bergstrom Music Company, with its big store on Fort Street, will provide you with these—a Chickering, a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; and if you are a transient it will rent you a piano. The Bergstrom Music Company, phone 2331.

The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda water. The Consolidated Soda Water Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the largest manufacturers of deliihtful soda beverages in the Territory. Aerated waters cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water that is delicious, besides a score of other flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at any store.

22

THE MID-PACIFIC

Wonderful New Zealand

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.

Scenically New Zealand is the world's wonderland. There is no other place in the world that offers such an aggrega-tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are in every way more magnificent and awe-inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic panorama of unrivalled beauty from end to end. Its hot springs and geysers in the Rotorua district on the North Island have no equal anywhere. In this dis-trict the native Maoris still keep up their ancient dances or haka haka, and here may be seen the wonderfully carved houses of the aboriginal New Zealand-ers. There are no more beautiful lakes anywhere in the world than are the Cold Lakes of the South Island, nestling as they do among mountains that rise sheer ten thousand feet. Among these moun-tains are some of the largest and most scenic glaciers in the world. In these Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than twelve thousand feet high. On its slopes the Government has built a hotel to which there is a motor car service.

New Zealand was the first country to perfect the government tourist bureau. She has built hotels and rest houses throughout the Dominion for the benefit

of the tourist, for whom she has also built splendid roads and wonderful mountain tracks. New Zealand is splendidly served by the Government Railways, which sell the tourist for a very low rate a ticket that entitles him to travel on any of the railways for from one to two months. In the lifetime of a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune-din, New Zealand,) a New Zealand steamship company has been built up that is today the fourth largest steam-ship company under the British flag, and larger than any steamship company owned in America with her 100,000,000 million population, or in Japan with her 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is a land of wonders, and may be reached from America by the Union Steamship Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran-cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam-ship Co. also transfers passengers from Sydney. The Government Tourist Bureau has commodious offices in Auck-land and Wellington as well as the other larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in-formation and pamphlets may be secured by writing to the New Zealand Govern-ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New Zealand.

THE MID-PACIFIC

23

New South Wales ................M1M111411•411/.01.01.11•41•■•■•■•■■•■••■

Circular Quay, Sydney.

Physical configuration and a wide range of climates give the State of New South Wales its wonderful diversity of scenery, its abundance of magnificent resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val-ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this bewildering array of scenic attractions, and the peculiar strangeness of the forms of its animal and vegetable life, which make New South Wales one of the most interesting countries in the world, and one which an up-to-date, well-traveled tourist must see.

The climate of the State ranges from the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv-ers, and withal is one of the most equable in the world. Its eastern shore is washed by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific and stretches by meadow, tableland and mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath the rim of the setting sun.

Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun-tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of rare magnificence. Through countless centuries, the rivers have carved stupen-dous gorges, comparable only to the famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp-tus covered slopes give off health-giving odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring panoramas impress themselves on the memory of the mountain visitor.

The wonderful system of limestone caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy-land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma-tions, which must forever remain the despair of the painter, the photographer and the writer. The world has no more marvelous or beautiful system of caves than these at Jenolan, which tourists from everywhere have marked as their own. The famous Jenolan series is sup-plemented and rivalled by the extensive systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil-ly, a little further away from Sydney.

In the south, among the Australian Alps, lies the unique Kosciusko Range, which contains the highest peak in the Continent, and is said to be the oldest land surface on the globe. The Hotel Kosciusko, a modern spa, replete with every convenience, golf links and tennis courts,—stands at an altitude of 6000 feet. In Summer, the int untaineer and trout fisherman stays here to enjoy the majestic scenery at the summit, or fill his bag with fish caught in a handy stream, and in Winter the ski-runner, tobogganer and ice-skater revel in the Alpine car-nivals conducted on the glistening snow- fields. •

The Government Tourist Bureau, a splendidly equipped Institution at Challis House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor-mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to all inquirers in connection with the tour-ist resorts of the State.

THE MID-PACIFIC

Around the Pacific

TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA.

From San Francisco, Vancouver and from Honolulu there are two lines of fast steamships to Sydney, Australia.

From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus-tralia, there is a direct line of railway on which concession fares are granted tourists arriving from overseas, and no visitor to the Australian Commonwealth can afford to neglect visiting the southern central state of Australia; for South Australia is the state of superb climate and unrivalled re-sources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the South,' is the Capital, and there is a Govern-ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau, where the tourist, investor, or settler is given accurate information, guaranteed by the government, and free to all. From Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river and motor excursions to almost every part of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted through the magnificent mountain and pastoral scenery of South Australia. The government makes travel easy by a system of coupon tickets and facilities for caring for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions are arranged to the holiday resorts; indi-viduals or parties are made familiar with the industrial resources, and the American

as well as the Britisher is made welcome if he cares to make South Australia his home.

The South Australian Intelligence and Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on King William Street, Adelaide, and the government has printed many illustrated books and pamphlets describing the scenic and industrial resources of the state. A postal card or letter to the Intelligence and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the books and information you may desire.

ON TO JAPAN.

The Nippon Yusen Kaisha, or Japan Mail Steamship Co. with its fleet of 94 vessels, and tonnage of 450,000, maintains a service from Yokohama via Japanese, Chi-nese, Philippine and Australian ports to Sydney ' and Melbourne, as well as a European service, fortnightly from Yoko-hama to London and Antwerp, and from Yokohama (starting at Hongkong) to Vic-toria, B. C., and Seattle, Wash. Be-sides these main services, the Nippon Yu-sen Kaisha extends its coastal service to all of the principal ports in Japan, Korea and China, etc., thus making it the ideal shippers' service from Australia, America and Europe, as well as the most convenient around the Pacific and around the world service for the tourist or mer-chant. There are branch offices of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha at all the principal ports of the world. The head office is at Toyko, Japan, and its telegraphic address, "Morioka, Toyko."

Mr.. Chu Gem, Honolulu's most re-spected Chinese business man, is a director of the Home Insurance Co., and head of the firm of Quong Sam Kee Co., at the corner of King and Maunakea Sts., which supplies the local dealers of the territory with drugs and general merchandise.

Lake Marion and Du Cane Mountains, Tasmania.

• THE GARDEN AND PLAY Tasmania GROUND OF AUSTRALIA

Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re-sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten hours' run from the Australian mainland. The large steamers plying between Vic-toria and New Zealand call at Hobart both ways, and there is a regular service from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce-ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly.

Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes, and mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' paradise. It is also a prolific orchard country and has some of the finest fruit growing tracks in the world. The climate is cooler than the rest of Australia.

The angling is one of the greatest at-tractions of the island. The lakes and rivers are nearly all stocked with imported trout, which grow to weights not reached by other parts of Australia. The Tasmanian Gov-ernment issue a special illustrated handbook dealing with angling.

The Tasmanian Government deals di-rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap-

ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the world—is the headquarters of the Tasman-ian Government Tourist Department; and the Bureau will arrange for transport of the visitor to any part of the island. A shilling trip to a local resort is not to small for the Government Bureau to handle, neither is • tour of the whole island too big. Travel coupons are issued including both fares and accommodation if desired.

In Hobart and in other Tasmanian cen-ters there are local Tourist Associations. In Launceston the Northern Tasmania Tourist Association has splendid offices.

The Tasmanian Government has an up-to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William Street, next door , to the New Zealand Gov-ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, and information can be produced.

For detailed information regarding Tas-mania, either as to travel or settlement, enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em-mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Govt. Tourist Dept., Hobart, Tasmania.

41

The picturesque Oahu Railway. There are daily trains from Honoluli, to the beautiful Haleiwa Hotel, and to Leilehua. Also combined auto and rail trips around the island through the Wahiawa pineapple fields, with a stay at Haleiwa. $to covers all expenses of this two-day trip.

•

PRINTED BY HONOLULU STAR BULLETIN. MERCHANT ST.