Harper's Bazar New York de abril de 1925

J'-T’ . ', - ' T

2 / 'ith £ on d on ^ 6 .

Harper’s Ba^arA n T ^ f rA P R I L 1925

p.

•n

t '•

Ayuntamiento de Madrid

Y O U J U S T K N O W S H E W E A R S T H E M

fF ’ben 6be dancea, her ankled mud be clad in gleaming dlken emarlnede— but in dlken elurdineM, too. That id why the looelied o f women everywhere chooee M cCalium Silk H odery f o r dancing— hecauee JlcCallum etando not only f o r the crowning achievement o f the docking mode, but f o r the ut- mod in docking wear ao well. S ilk H o s ie r j> ' d

Thoee who read the AlcCallum DeLiixebook are indeed abread o f all Lbat ie the very lat- c d and modi delightful in the docking mode, f o r AlcCallnm veU the mode— and ibiv delightful yllcCnlliim booklet fitly illudratco it. Send a card today to AlcCallum Hodery Company, Northampton, Alaev., and we will eend you a copy f r e e o f charge. /

' D •

■■

i;


Tiffany & Co.J e w e le rs

1837-Quality- 1925

I n q u i r i e s I n v i t e d

Fifth Aw ue & 37-Street AewYorr


H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

For Daytime, Night-time, Anytim e W earWhen it’s a question o f hosiery, what Daughter o f Eve would hesitate between “ just stockings” and “ Onyx Pointex” ?This creation o f style and service is skilfully fashioned to reveal the natural grace o f every ankle. < a <

Leading stores everywhere sell “ Onyx” Hosiery, and especially the “ Pointex” styles listed below:

Silk, with U sle Top $-1.65 AH Pure Thread Silk'Style 155, M edium w e ig h t .............................i style 350, Service weight

Conceived and executed by artisans who are also artists, “ Onyx Pointex” stands alone upon its eminence o f hosiery perfection.Made in every shade and tone o f the season’s newest colors and in a style and texture to complement each costume.

Style 255, Service w e i g h t ................................. nc ( $ ^ - 7 5S ty le3 5 5 ,“ S h e r e s i lk ” , t h e s h e e r e s t [^ l -^ ^ Style 450, Sheresilk” , so clear you can T

weight o f pure thread silk , ) read print through it . . . *

“ Onyx” Hosfejy Manufacturers' New York

" 0 " H Inc.. 1925P o i n t e x

R G O . U . S . P A T . O F F .

j o

H A R P E R 'S B A Z A R la publiahed DOiitliiy 119 W . 40th St.. X ew Y ork , b j latonallooA l M uaztaw Com oanr. Inc. P rlo to l la U. S. A . Y t t ^ aubacrinU<Hi price. *4.00. Eaiered aseeen x i d u e matter M ur 4tb, 19Q1. at the p e n offlce. N ew Y ork . N . Y . under the act M M arch 3rd. 1S79.

Tot. L a No.«


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5

L A S u p r e m e

C O R S E T S A N D B R A S S IE R E S

W^hich con fer tbaL grace o f Line which is the very coaence o f the

sm art woman's chic.

JUodeL 300—D ance B elt o f elastic bands and s ilk troche which holds the figure firm ly while giving complete freedom fordancing. In jleoh . 2-00Jllodel 302— L a Supreme Step ~'ut o f sd k elastic in the new coral ohade, reinforced a t back and fro n t with heavy oilkbatiste to give th efia teffect. 12 inch length. 22-50ig inch length. 25-00

JKodel 302a— Bandeau Braooiere o f f i le t pattern lace with white satin ribbon straps, 1.00

JKodel304— B raooiereof Puoey Whitlow satin with elastic insets a t sides and back to m ake i t s e l f adjustable. In fleoh _ _ 3.75In real Irish linen, 2-95

Jtlodel 306 — L a Supreme Clasp- around C orset ofi hand-knitted silk elasLic reinforced with s ilk brochi. I t is molded to Ihe figu re in oiicb a way that it idealized every line, giving a natural uncorseted” look. In Jleoh. ig inch length. 38-75i6 inch length. 40-75

T H E N e w P A R F A IT C O R SE L E SThatcombine two garm ents in one

unbroken slender line.

Jflodel308— B a r f a it Corsele— braodiere and girdle combined— o f silk broche and hand-knitted elastic with elasLic straps. Itsligh t,cleverly placed bones m ake i t a s effective a s a corse t in giving slenderness.In ficd h . 11-75

JModel 310— P a rfa it Corsele that united the poise o f the braodiere and girdle in a boneless garm ent, o f heavy silk tricot with deep panels o f knitted elastic. In flesh . 19-75

ConSB T S h o p —

Charge A ccoiuits Solicited

f r a n k l in Hinton & do.A S tore o f In d ivid u al S fiop s

Fiftla A venue, S/th and 58th Streets, N e w Y o rkEntire Contents Copyrighted, 19a5

by Franklin Simon & C 0.1 Ine.


I I A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f o

JEANNEL A T fV IN

T h e N e w P a r i s G o a t shave a feminine elegance oc a masculine simplicity

Lan'^in’s nsw flare co a t o f SKu nese vnspiration. was on e o f tke outstanding Paris successes, an d ou r reproduction is exact. B lack can ton crepe w itk stltcking in wklte an d gold , blue an d gold, green an d gold, o c c o co a brown an d gold . 5tzes l A i o 2 0 . 145 .00

W a ich f o r o u r fash ion show ing in y o u r ioWn. W e Visit th e fo llow ing cities b etw een n o w a n d A p r il 15th. GleOeland, ‘T oledo, D etro it, (grand Rapids, Ft. W a yn e, (Shi- cago, ‘W i l k e s B a r r e , ‘Reading, H arrisburg, B a ltim ore , ‘P h ilad elp h ia , N e w HaOen.

T k e sJogUe fo r m ann lsk ta ilored coats continues, a n d Was o n im portant note a t tke recent Paris openings. H ere is on e o f tke sm artest coots, w itk tke new lon g co llar a n d nipped-in waist. NasJy, black 00 beige ckarm een, fou lard lined. Sizes to 2 0 . 8 5 .0 0

PARIS 1B3est $c Co. LONDON

Firtk Avenue at 35tk S t r e e t Y . P a lm B ea ch , F lorida


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5

5<rw<r5(rw<rs

BONWIT TELLER aCO.< 5 p ecu ilty S J io p ^ O rt^ m ation A

HFTH AVENUE AT 38^“STREET.NEVYORK

The Animated Silhouette In:A5 o f WOMEN’S PAR.I5 60WN5

.AT LEFT— Replica of a M a rtia l et A m iandgow n for women sho-wing the anim ated silhouette with circular skirt, o f crepe back satin in blonde, silver gray, copper, navy or black. Sizes34 to 44- 4 8 . 0 0

A T R IG H T — Replica o f a Vatou gown fo r women showing the anim ated silhouette w ith inverted pleats, o f fla t crepe in blonde, stiver gray, marine blue, w ild rose or black. Sizes 34 to 44. QQ

M A IL O R D E R S P R O M P T L Y FILLED

A


H A R P E R ' S B A Z A Rf o

V IA N N E s [abonie Uf() Capriciously youthful is this printfd chiffon tea or dance frock in Jlesh and blue, beige and orange, lanjen- der and rose, sand and yetlonv, black, iwhite and red.

Sizes 14 to 20— $39.50

M A R S H A i [abonje right)Lonver one's nsiaistUne— and lonsjer one's years— so pronjis the second f r o c k — a beaded georgette f o r madame. In Titian, Pemjenche blue, ashes o f roses, gray and nanjy.

Sizes 34 to 44— $39.50

D O R Y S E : [photographed right) One eagerly anvaits Spring's f r s t nsjarm day to don this charm ing crepe satin street frock. No need to sing the praises o f its cascading lace jabot, ttraightline back and pleated apron. In black, blonde, nanjy and cocoa. Sizes 34 to 44— $39.50.

A L L U R I N G F R O C K S F O R E A S T E R — A N D L O N G A F T E R

A SPRING FROCK — that will be quite as smart beneath the Sum m er sun !

So alert and sensitive is Barbara Lee to every fashion trend, her frocks far outlive a single season.In the lovely A pril array are charm ing models for youth and her elders, for all daytime and evening hours— each so low priced, one may indulge in several,— $39.50.

J O C E L Y N :Sorrouving its sk irt from Chanel and sieeojes fro m a Bishop, this youthful fiat crepe frock pretends to be tnuo pieces. A lace net yoke and gay handkerchief complete. Inbeige, navy, Pervenche blue, gray, Lanvin green, and cocoa-

Sizes 14 to 20— $39.50.

Abraham & Straus Inc. B rooklyn , N . Y .

L . S . A yres & CompanyIndianapolis, Ind.

L . Bamberger & C o.N ew a rk , N . J ,

Barbara Lee frocks fo r women and misses are shown exclusively in the shops listed in this advertisement

Bullock’ sLos A n geles, Cal.

T h e D ayton Com pany M inneapolis, M in n .

T h e EmporiumSan Francisco, Cal.

W m . Filene’ s Sons Corapanv Boston, Mass.

B . Forman C o.R och ester , N . Y .

Frederick & NelsonSeattle, W ash .

Joseph Horne C o.Pittsburgh, Pa.

T h e J . L . Hudson C o.D etroit, M ich ,

T h e F . & R . Lazarus & C o.C olum bus, O hio

T h e Rike-Kum ler C o.D ayton , O hio

Strawbridge & ClothierPhiladelphia, Pa.

T h e W m . T a y lo r Son ic Co.Cleveland, O hio

1925 by R. R. A.


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5

A YOUTHFUL FROCK OF BLACK LACE FROM LUCIEN LELONG

T A is season., y o u th w i l l d in e a fid d a n ce

in frocks like this

B. A L T M A N & CO. n e w y o r kFIFTH AVEN U E


H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

ITS B E A U T Y CH ARM S; ITS STRENGTH A M A Z E S

D r e s s i n g a bed correctly requires the same good taste and eye to beauty as

the selection o f a smart frock. But it goes further. Sheets and pillow cases must last; passing styles do not affect them.

Clever, provident women buy Wamsutta Percale Sheets and Pillow Cases for the innate fineness o f texture and, above all, for the astonishing strength o f this fabric.

By the famous Millard Test it was proved that after 160 launderings (equivalent to 6 years hom e use) Wamsutta Percale came through stronger than any o f the 25 brands o f w ell-known sheetings tested.

W a m su tta P «rca te after 160 laundetings

O rd in a ry Sheeting after 160 launderings

The enlarged microscopic photo^ graphs above show how the finely H w en texture o f W am surta Per* caie it unhdrrn^ after die severe test o f i6o launderings — tchtle the texture o f ordinsrv sheeting

breaks down and separates.

Wamsutta Percale is made in those great mills at N ew Bedford, Mass., where the weaving o f this exquisite fabric Is superior to any other— here or abroad. N ot only is Wamsutta Percale lovelier than fine linen, but it costs considerably less; and not much more than ordinary cotton.

The Wamsutta green and go ld label is your protection. Insist on seeing It when you buy sheets and pillow cases. A t the best stores—plain, hemstitched or scalloped.

X s\

W A M S U T T A M IL L S , N E W B E D F O R D , M A S S .

Pounded 1846

R ID LEY W A T T S & CO., Silling Agents, 44 Leonard Sc.. N . Y.

W A M S U T T A PERGALESlu^ts and PtUow Cases Q/ie Finest Cottons

W A M S U T T A M IL L S A L S O M A K E W A M S U T T A N A I N S O O K , L U S T E R S H E E R , U N G E R I E , W A M S U T T A U N D E R W E A R C L O T H . A N D W A M S U T T A O X F O R D


j o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5

Typical o f the high quality and low prices o f Macy’s reproductions are these four occasional chairs. A t left, a Shaker chatr with calico covered seat, S9-S4, Next to tt, a maple finished, rush seat chair, $18.74,

Chair in right center u a Trench peasantdesign, with rush seat and ladder back, $15.24. A t right, a splint bottom, painted chair after original from Gadsby's Tavern, now in Metropolitan Museum. $9 64.

A Q UESTION FOR THE SO PH ISTICATEDW h e n a small shop opens without advertisements . . . as the Corner Shop o f Macy’s did open . . . and when by the sheer meric o f its offerings it artraas, firgt, a ho§t o f professional decorators who came to look and remained to buy . . . and then artrafts young people o f good taSte who mu§t be economical,

and also attrafts colleftors who can pay what they like . . . when its offerings are as good and unusual and alluring as those you see on this page . . . and so modestly priced, considering quality . . . don’t you think you ought to be among the army o f Harper’s Bazar readers who know and patronize the Corner Shop?

A vase from the Corner Shop's interestingcoUec- tion o f glass vases m solidcolorsand unusual shapes. Amethyst, am- her or green. $4.74.

A t right, a furniture grouping that indicates the spirit i f not the range o f the many fine reproductions tn the Corner Shop. The chatr, a Colonial reproduction, finished in maple, is covered tn chintz with grey blue background and rose flowers. Loose seat cushion. Price $107.00. The old hooked rug, with fiowered tiles IS one o f a large and interesting collection. Prices rangmg from $24.74 to $176.00 The maple gateleg table and mirror are early American reproductions. Price, together, $94 50.

A piece o f Italian pottery with mythological head in relief repeated as a design. G lazed fin ish , in blue, $1.94.

Lamp with pewter finish. Prom old Colonial oil lamp model, $8.94. Map shade, $11.24.

Below is an irridescent glass howl, which emulates the color and beauty o f Venetian glassware; amber, blue $2.84.

34i*SI.&BK0ADWAY f f n o . O ' NRWTORKCITVI

«}. d / NP


10 . B A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

D orothy (grands'Pri’ua "Donrh!

t^ppearing in The.^JvIessrs. Shubert 'Production o f

" T H E L O V E S O N G ”

G O -^ 'N , H A T & W R — 'Bjf.JVILGJUM

he Empress E u gen ie G o w n

Q )AN INSPIRATION

4

g o w n s . FROCKS • SUITS • W RAPS M il l in e r y f u r s "A M E R IC A ’S FOREM OST

F A S H IO N C R E A T O R "

m iL G m MB R O A D W A Y a f l A t h S T R E E T , N E W Y O R K

600 MICHIGAN BOULEVARD SOUTH, CHICAGO

•JMILGRJM. .JMODBS at the Foremost Store in Sack


z i11

f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5

The Debutante Fashions Add Paris Smartness To An Air Of Youth

A certain youthful charm is emphasized in every misses' fashion presented by Saks-Fifth Avenue— whether it be a topcoat, an ensemble suit or a filmy dance frock. N o t only is it stressed in our adaptations o f successful Paris models, but also in the Paris originals imported by us. For these were selected by our personal representative abroad, just as are those fashions selected here because they best express the irresistible debutante spirit, the buoyant m ood o f youth.

For all Occasions —MISSES’ COATS 35.00 to 295.00 MISSES' FROCKS 29-50 to 195.00 MISSES’ SUITS 45.00 to 395.00

S A K S -F IF T H AVENUEF O R T Y -N IN T H to FIFTIETH STR E E T, N E W Y O R K


12 B A R P E R ’ S ■ B A Z A R j f o r

I

9{ow small is a woman's foot?

7 HE shoe shop has its mirrors, focused on the

floor line, to remind its patrons that there is more to choosing the right shoe than the mere matter o f size. The right shoe, at any season, is the shoe that shows the foot at its trimmest and best. Between two shoes o f identical size there is all the difference in the world in the vital matter o f effect upon the appearance o f the foot. Here line and pattern enter the picture — and the material o f which the shoe is made.

And here, in this new season, the creators o f footwear fashions have scored their greatest triumph — in choosing for their trim, new m o d e ls th e r ich leather, V ici kid. V ici kid molds itself to the foot as smoothly as a fine glove fashions itself to the hand.For Spring the smartest models, in shoes for every o c c a s io n , are m ade o f Vici kid — good news for every w om an versed in

the art o f putting her best foot forward.Regardless o f you r p rice requ irem ents, you m ay h ave V ic i kid

The vogue for Vici kid starts with the m ostexpensiveof thenewshoes, to be sure. But fashions are made for the majority, and the majority prefer to be fashionable at reasonable cost. V ic i k id presents the new modes in footwear just as accurately in shoes o f moderate price. The new models in V ici kid are obtainable at the price you want to pay.

T h is w ill help you recogn ize th e co rrect n ew shoes

The makers o f fashionable footwear are placing the V ici kid trade mark

inside their new m odels in Vicikid. Look for this trade mark. Y ou may select the shoe in which it appears with all confidence that it is an authentic repre-

cJ/othing could be smarter than tkese three new models kid

Thi$ th r^strap model in rich black Vici kid rep- resents a type o f shoe no well-dressed woman can do without—a shoe for business, travel and general-purpose wear. Motieis ivirh one broad strap are also being shou^n.

This mode/ s'jows the popular two-tone treatment at its best- The vamp and ejuaner are O ak color Vici hid ui/iK d covered hee( ond applxaue trim- mir« 5 o f Caramel co lor V ici. Similar combinations o f O ak and Sudan and Sudan and Cranberry co/or V ici kid are equally smart and effective.

Nothing cou/d be smarter than this new sEC(>-tn pump unth its severe ename/ed buckle. It is being shown in black mat (dull /inish) V ici kid, ana in the voguesK soft tone colors.

sentative o f the new mode.

this m ark“ -th e \^cl k id * t r a d e m a r k ~ in $ ld e th e eh oe o f your ch o ice . T h ere is o n ly o n e V ic i k id—therc never has been arty other.

R O B E R T H . FOERDERER, In c .PH ILA D E LP H IA

Selling agencies in all pans o f the world

V I C I k i d

C

i2 f ^RsOk. If, e . C9AT. o r r*


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 513

THE PRINTED CHIFFON FROCKTs a Fashion « / muck Consequence

F a s h i o n g oes in to p r in t f o r S p r in g . F ro m first to last page the s to r y o f th e P a r is o p en in g s com es to us la r g e ly m b o ld p a ttern s . A n d the p a g e th at ca tch e s o u r e y e a n d h o ld s ou r a tten tion is th a t o f p r in te d ch iffo n s . L or9 cfl T aylor in terp re ts th is m ost en g ross in g p a g e o f th e m od e in p rin ted ch iffo n fr o c k s fo r w o m e n a n d m isses. F r o c k s fo r a fte rn oon , fo r d in n er a n d fo r d a n cin g . $ 4 6 to $ 1 1 0

T h ir d F lo o r

Lord &TaylorFIFTH A V E N U E ' N E W Y O R K


14 H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

T h e t a i l o r e d s h o emade with Barbourwelt

f o

to complete the tailored costume

7IRIM, simply designed and practical— that is theensemhle note in every well tailored costume.

Your shoes, too, can be selected to " g o ” perfectly with the correct tailoring o f suits, frocks and trig little hats.

The newest shoes for Spring have been made with Barbourwelt to complete this effect. Many different makes o f smart shoes offer you Barbourwelt models with the trim tailored line o f leather ribbing along the seam between upper and sole.

And the "practical” advantage o f genuine Barbourwelt is that it reinforces the lighter leather of the upper and counteracts the natural tendency o f the foot to wear it out o f shape.

BARBOUR WELTING COMPANYM anufacturers o f H igh G rade G oodyear W eltin g f o r over thirty yea rs

BROCKTON, MASS.

pM ade w ith Barbourw elt

1A sm artly ta ilored oxford in two-toned brown

1calfskin w ith perforatedquarter and vam p lines, and a low boyiaa heel. i

m m m

B A R B O U R W E L T“S T O R M W E L T ”/ o r w i n t e r ^ “D R E S S W E L T ”/ o r s u m m e r


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 15

W H E N E A S T E R ’ S S U N S H I N E L U R E S O N E S E A W A R D

My r a and Alice were enjoying their brisk walk along the boardwalk when Joan hailed them from her rolling chair.

“ W h y , Joan,” Myra exclaimed. “ W hen did you com e down and why this lassitude? D on ’ t you know boardwalks are meant to be walked on ?”

“ One question at a time. 1 came down yesterday but not to walk.”“ W ell, don’ t complain when you see A lice and me slim and

lissome— we earned our slenderness bv walking to Chelsea and back twice today,”

Joan groaned. “ D on ’t rub it in— I had hoped to lose about five pounds and I haven’t been able to walk a city block.”

“ W h y not?” asked Alice.

patent Uathe* a n d A lh g a ic r s k a r t ke m rs m tkii imart^angie^tfra^pam p. A t komt a t a l l daytime oceauens.

“ O h , the spirit is willing but the feet are weak. M y walking shoes weren’ t finished before I left and I ’ ve nothing but these high heel pumps, and they’ re meant to be looked at.”

Alice regarded Joan disdainfully.“ Honestly, Joan, you seem determined to make life troublesome

for yourself. Yes— I know vour foot is difficult to fit— so is mine, but no one has shoes made to order these davs.”

“ D o you mean those confections o f yours weren’t made for you?”“ O f course not— Mvra, Marion, all o f us wear Ped-e-modes.”“ W ell, you needn’t have been so secretive about it— I ’ve spent a

fortune trying to copy the smart shoes you’ ve been wearing this season. W rite the address o f the shop down now before you leave me.”

CJHe edcnvode SKop76 E. M adison S t., C h icago

i C T i v o a e

S h o esy^ r Women

‘ftdenvode .live.570 F ifth Avenue, N ew Y o r k

A J lifa tp r trimt ik j s R a w a e C a l f pnm p e n d f a ik s tn * ike keel4 A n excellent lu a l^ n g ikee a n d deenratrve as vieli.

CQk; 'tfedenvode SKop1708 E u clid Avenue, C le v e la n d , O .

Caspari y Virmond C o.M ilw au k ee , Wia,

Joseph Horne C o.Pitnburgh , Pa.

Seymour SycleR ich m on d , V a .

L . Bamberger isf C o . Ernst Kern C o . C ity of Paris D ry Goods C o . L . LivingstonN ew a rk , N . J , D etroit, M k h . San F ia n ca co , Cal. N e w Y o rk

K err D ry Goods C o . Thom as Kilpatrick C o . Knight Shoe C o . Lauber’ sO klahom a C ity , O k la . O m a h a, N eb. Portland, O re, T o le d o , O h io

Johnston Shoe C o . Robert I . Cohen, Inc. D . B . Loveman C o . Davenport H otel Sport Shop Friedman-Spring D ry Goods C o . Smich-Kasson C oD en ver, C o lo . G alveston , Texas C hattanooga, T en n . Spokane, W ash . Grand Rapids, M ich . C incinoatl, O .

P. E . Ballou C o.Providence, R . 1.

Phelps Shoe StoreShreveport, La.

J. W. Robinson Co.L os A n geles, Calif.

J U L I U S G R O S S

if'r ile f t r n j i e book— cha’-gi

M A N , I N C . , B R O O K L Y N , N Y .



A n original Paris M odel by Madelaine M onjarei— of Soietanelle, a ’washable Darbrooh Silk.

SILKS o f C H A R A C T E R an d Q U A L IT YBELLE FLE U R G E O R G E T TE S - D A R B R O O K P R IN T E D CREPES

D O R IS S A T IN ' ' CREPE A M O U Rfor the Formal Costume

PEBBLE B E A C H W E LLE SLE Y

SO IE LA N E LLE C R E T O N N E D E SOIE

Vfashabh Sil^s for Sports 'Wear

CREPE B A R O D A C O R O N A D O

Should you not find Dar- brook Silks at your favored shop, we 11)111 be pleased to tell you <where they arc on display at a shop convenient to you. Address any inquiries to Darbrook Fashion Service,

Fourth A venue, N e’w York City.


Select COLORS and U PH O LST ER Y f o r your Custom CADILLAC

A f t e r all, you are satisfied when you satisfy yourself. A n d so, when you purchase aV-63 Cadillac

with Custom Body by Fisher, Cadillac invites you to dictate your car's appearance by selecting both colors and upholstery.T h e V -63 Cadillac chassis, as you know , is recognized the w orld over as the foremost example of eight-cylinder manufacture.

It, too, w ill prove as fine and satisf_ving as though built to your personal specifications.

The Cadillac Custom-Built line includes fiv e closed models in 24 master color harmonies and ten upholstery patterns. Wheelbase 138", except the Puco-passenger coupe 'which measures 132". Price range, $3975 to $4950, f . 0. b. Detroit.

C A D I L L A C M O T O R C A R C O M P A N Y . D E T R O I T , M I C H I G A N D iv is io n o f G e n e r a l M otors C orp ora iion

C AS T A N D A R D

L L A COF T H E W O R L D


u x iteS IL K

a n d ^ s i e v y


17f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5

For spring, Cammeyer creates a new fasM on ^ slippers w ith short vamp and narrow toe.

a iT | lT \G U ^ I

do Ly/O'F p ffl aF F f f

Cammeyer is now exhibiting shoes in m any o f the larger cities.A brochure o f springtime styles will be mailed to you upon reguest.


N E W Y O R K

18

Orders W ill Be B'romptly Jilled

B R O O K L Y N N E W A R K

No connection with anv othei establishments in the world

43-45 W e s t 34t h St r e e t , N e w Y o r k


H A R T F O R D

y^or ^yrCadame and tdhCademoiselle

4539— Paris expresses the perfect good taste o f smart sim plicity in this chic frock o f rich crepe satin with its reversed panels and delicately lovely collar o f French knotted silk net combined with Valenciennes lace. Colors: blonde, goblin blue, aquamarine, chili and black. Sizes 14 to 44-

4536—By pteaudflounces, an adroit use o f smart buttons, and a new J enn y collar of rich Venetian lace edged with a frill o f fin e net, this slender-line frock o f fia t crepe achieves that unmistakable French smartness every woman admires. 'Colors: blonde, goblin blue perriwinkle blue, aquamarine, rose, navy and black. Sizes 14 to 4 2 . 518^®

4 S4I— A patrician frock o f flat crepe that flaunts Us Paris origin in every slender line andevery sophisticated detail—from iu smart godet flare and tiny crocheted buttons to its puritan collar and frilled Jabot o f georgette. Colors: blonde, goblin blue, perriwinkle blue, aquamarine, rose, navy and black. Sizes 14 to 42 .

454°— The new fashion o f fem inine elegance that many smart Parisiennes have adopted, is perfectly expressed in this exquisitely slender, daintily flounced frock o f rich fla t crepe with elaborate yoke and pockets o f hand-embroidered silk net edged with Valenciennes lace. Colors: blonde, goblin blue, perriwinkle blue, aquamarine, rose, navy and black. Sizes 14 to 42 . *22^ '^

A f/ ie ( § m a r t ( f a s h i o n s , y ^ a b r k s

and Qolors T^aris Is 1/kearing

S U C H L O W P R IC E S F O R S U C H P E R F E C T

R E P R O D U C T IO N S O F E X P E N S IV E IM P O R T S

AR E POSSIBLE O N L Y BECAU SE TH E COPIES

W E R E M A D E IN O U R O W N W O R K R O O M S

H ail o rd e rs tvill b e prom p tly filledW O R T H — 4.5 WEST 3 4 th ST,, NEW YORK. C ITY — DEPT, 22

M oney ord ers must a ccom p a n y ea eb o r d e r • I f pu rch ase is unsatisfactory m on ey w ill b e p rom p tly re fu n d ed


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 19

t i

S i lT ' V-

/ /(•.

.- ' -( .V

To oA dm ire a n d b e oA dm ired M ALLIN SO N ’C

1 . S i l k s a n d l y r i c s d e l u x e k _ 7

For Spring and Sum m er the w om an w ho appreciates the newest note in fashion will appear in some one o f the wonderful M allin son creations in Printed Indestructible V o ile , Printed Pussy W illow or Printed Pussy W illow Crepe.You can’t help admiring the fabrics when you see them — when you wear them you can’t escape being admired.For whatever place or occasion where distinction o f dress is appreciated, Matlmson’s Silks and Fabrics de Luxe predominate.

Sold in all the better stores and identif ied by the name M A L L IN S O N on the selvage.

H. R. M ALLINSON &. CO M PAN Y, Inc.Fifth A v e o u e at 3 1st Street. N e w Y ork

2 2 0 South State St.. C hicago 711 W ells-F argo B id g., San Francisco

Sole re|trcsencativcs in United States and Canada o f p a r i s


20H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

C O A T S • S U I T S » D R E S S E S

The Printiess Labe! in your coat, suit or dress is a guarantee of quality, and the identification o f a smart garment which you have purchased from a reliable store.

C-/^REAL p lea su re to shop where Printzess modes are sold.

They are always in such reliable stores, w here the salespeople are quick to understand your requirements, and anxious to please you.

A n d when you find just the coat, suit, dress, or ensemble that you have in mind— there is the Printzess label in the back o f the garment, to tell you that it will wear well, and keep its shape and good style.

pRiNTZ makes a specialty, t o o , o f g a rm en ts fo r the shorter woman w ho usually has trouble in being fitted.

These are sold under the M iss Printzess label.

Do not deny yourself the pleasure o f trying on a few o f the notably stylish models which Printz has designed for spring wear— and personalised for you.

It’s well to shop early because Printzess things are so attractive this spring. The Printz-Biederman Company, N ew York'Cleveland.

Printzess Coats - - - JJS to $ 95 Printzess Taillcurs - - $45 to $ 75 Printzess Ensembles - $65 to $145 Printzess Dresses - - $25 to $ 55


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 21

-B E C A U SE Y O U

L O V E N IC E

TH IN G S!

H er hat has the severe simplicity sponsored by the French couturiers. H er frock ts slender and straight o f line— a triumph o f the tailored mode. So she relies on her gloves fo r that frilly, feminine note which is so extremely important to a fashionable ensemble. Silk gloves by Van Raolte she chooses fo r then delightfully varied styles and— because she loves nice things.

V A N R A A L T ESiLk. QLo\e^es


22H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

C O A T S W O M EN W ILL W E A R TH IS SPRIN G

Hart S ch a j fn e r & Marx n ew e s t Paris m od e ls* T * c o a t s hold favor for spring; new single and double

breasted sport coats of smart tweeds, cheviots in the soft color' mgs of the Scotch Moors Then there are the straight silhouette coats that drape so gracefully, with fur at the bottom and cuffs and collar of the cloth '' or fur if you prefer itSmart coats for motoring, sport wear and for dress; all of them in thefinest domestic and foreign fabrics Rare knitted designs, cord effectsstocking weaves, sunset patterns, and soft one tone shades You’llbe as delighted with the reasonable prices as you are with the styles and tailoring

T he spring style hoo\ is ready; it shows models fo r every purpose Send fo r it

H A R T SCH AFFN ER & M A R XY o r k


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 23

She finds her Van Raa/te Stik Undemuear perfict o f fit and dain^ to look upon lending itself graiefultf

to Spring's slender lines.

A p ^ lq u ed medgllionf o f cootrasting ci^or com bine w ith piping to trim th ii H t o f vc$c and French drawers.

V nn RaaJ te tailored g lo ve-silk vest with m atching bloomers. Superb o f At. I d p in k , or- c liid j peachy w hite and black.

Step-in c hemiae be V a n Raalte — daintilv trim m ed w ith imported Valenciennes lace. Extra fullness at hips.

— B E C A U S E S H E L O V E S N I C E T H IN G S !

Costume lines were never so straight and slender. Never was it so important that one's underwear

j i t without a wrinkle or a bulge. Van Raalie Silk Underwear is perfect in f t , yet amply and comfortably cut. Further, it ss firm o f texture, washes splendidly and gives wonderful service. And It comes in all the delicate colorings and in the most delightfully varied styles.

Tailored g lo T e -b lk step -inchem isetniciB edw ithnicJced ' 'net inserts and contrastingpiping. In a d e lecta b lep ca ch P n n cesss lip o fg lov es lk w ith

adjustable ehadow proof hem . In p in k , w hite, peach , b lack , pearl gray, pongee and navy.

VAN RAALTEQLo\)e, SiLk.. Ur.deru)ecLr


24 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

i "I

Brown—Shoes* I 'H E new two-tone leather eSects J- are show n in a w ide range of

smart styles in BrownM? Shoes— one model of which is illustrated above.

Women who consider the costume as a w hole w ill find in the new BrownkiLc models a particular style for each definite need, for street, afternoon or evening wear.

For beauty of design, grace of line, and correctness of style, Brown bilt

Shoes are rarely equaled. They fit as though they were custom-built.

Good stores sell and recommend Brownbilt Shoes for their distinctive style, their correct leathers and their superior craftsmanship. 'usTER B r o w n 5 h o

are expressly made to keep the feet o f growing boys and girls healthy, strong and sturdy. The new models feature the latest style effects for children, in straps, sandals and oxfords, in all the fashionable leathers and combinations.

Manu/acturers


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 25

^ B E C A U S E Y O U

LO\^E N IC E

T H IN G S !

./galaxv o f colors! Colors gem clear, sunset varied, Jloiuer fine! Colors fo r evening wear, soft as the afterglow o f southern suns. For afternoon, deeper sun-kissed shades. Everything that is fashion favored. Jnd all expressed in silt o f fienvless texture and fashioned into stockings o fsmoothest fit and well-liked sendee.

V A N R A A LT EScLk^ S t o c k l .n g s


26 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R Jo

consensus o f leading shoe designers as to the sine qua non o f correft lace footwear is evidenced by the prevalence o f visible eyelets on leading

makes o f street, dress, and sport shoes. Always insist on Goodyear Welt shoes with Diamond Brand Vkihle Fast Color Eyelets!

Diamond 'Brand (ViiibU) FaSf Color Eyelets promote easy lacing andpreserve the smooth Style lines o f the upper. They retain their oripnal color and

finish indefinitely and aStually outwear the shoe. L o o k fo r th e D ia m o n d ^ T r a d e M a r k

U N I T E D F A S T C O L O R E Y E L E T C O M P A N Y , B O S T O NUManufaSurers o f

DIAMOND BRAND Vmble FAST COLOR EYELETS


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 527

( f j j e Latest Cable6W®i Vbm tf^i'U g G l o v e sParis m ay waver between the silhouette and the flare — but it is unanimous this Spring on gloves.

jil? LiJ-h

D o u b l« ruffles e a d doub le shirring w ith the new side clasp, give this g love in im itab le charm . _

M od el 596— P n ce $2.00

A s she turned o u t o f the Rue St, H on ors , w e noted a d ip lom a t's w ife w earing this g love w ith its scalloped cuff.

M o d e l 576— P rice $1.50

) em broidered decora* g ive this circular cuff

shade darker then •e— d istiaction and

550— P rice $2.00

P a r i s D e c r e e sr n o T n c n .

U p to Paris cam e the newsl O n the R iviera—at Cannes, N ice, M onaco— over at Biarritz, the ungloved hand is passt.

All because someone created the vogue o f decorated cuffs— now gloves are lovelier than ever before, the final complement o f a smart Spring costume.

Paris heard the newsl V oila ! B y cable we received style notes sketched by our own representatives.

And now, Madame and M adem oiselle, the modes de rigueur o f the R ue de la Paix are to be found in you r ow n favorite shops here in the States.

Speed? Yes. It is our pleasure to transmit the mode from les Parisiennes to les Am ericaines w ith dispatch.

Just as if you had shopped in Paris you , too, m ay wear the smart gloves now seen on the Bois, at tea at the R itz or before dinner at the Crillon.

Kayser observers in Paris keep us posted. So look to Kayser, as other wise wom en do, for all that is chic in gloves.

N ote some o f the latest models sketched here— they com e in different shades in the proper silk weights for Spring. And the prices—such as would delight the smart but thrifty Parisienne.

G L O V E S • U N D E R W E A R • H O S IE R Y

T b c g lov e o f ft distiDgaiabed R u s s i e o e m ig r in &s she aU rted ou t to shop.

M od el 592— Price $2.00O riginelly aketebed io tbe foy er o f the O pira, fo llow - jo g a sm art coocert .

M od e l 1560— Price $3.00

t b u t sim ple— the elegance o f con trast— it has fou r p iped circlets.

M od e l 525— P rice $1.76

A new gauntlet m odel with handkerchief flaps in coa* trasting colors.

M od el 555— Price $2.00

A ppropriately enough, we noted th is £ o w e r em broid e re d tu rn -d o w D cu ff as tb e w earer em erged from a I ov e ly garden.

M od el 582— P rice $3.00

T h is m odel was w orn b y a noted <\merican ju s t up from Cannes.

M od el 519— P rice $2.00



l i 'i :

-I

ii'i 'onderful ShoesN

The newest development o f the satin pum p is d istinguished by paten t leather cut-out ornamentation.

EW, smart, youthful— the qualities you want most in shoes for your Spring costumes— are unmistakably characteristic o f these slippers made by Johnson, Stephens

5? Shinkle.“■Wonderful Shoes for Wonderful Girls” are always a step ahead in the pace o f fashion. Heels, vamps, decoration— all are patterned after the most advanced Paris models.Materials are o f finest quality, and each shoe is made as care-' fully as though it were the only one o f its kind— solely responsible for the reputation o f the factory.Carried by the largest and most exclusive shoe stores and department stores everywhere— always moderately priced.

Individuality and charm are achieved by contrast—patent leather vamp witk heel and quarter o f mottled gray.

Sandal-type fancy cut-out slipper in varnished leather ornamented with brown leather lacing.

OHNSON.S F D H NS AND S h in k l e S h o e Co m p a n yWonderful Shoes Or "Wonderful Girls

ST.LOUIS.U.S.A.


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 529

D oes Y our Figure B elie Y our Face?

W om en w h o concentrate their energies on preserving the youthful beauty o f their faces must rem em eber that the face is no younger than the figure. In fact, the figure is the one thing w hich m osf’-nearly dominates the ensemble o f a w om an ’s attractiveness. This emphasizes the im portance o f a correctly designed figure-moulding garment one w hich com bines smart, straight lines w ith proper o r ganic support and perfect freedom.The H & W Bandeau illustrated, average and full figure type G-3157, is skillfully designed to give flattenning effect over diaphragm. It is a lonrline model which comes down well over the girdle top. M ade in a variety o f materials retailing from $2 to $10. Other Bandeaux and Bandettes $1 up. Corsettes and girdles $1.50 up. In ail leading stores.

T H E H & W C O M P A N Y , IN C. N E W A R K —N E W JERSEY

etsG FREE— A beaultful book en jo j^ G ^

T h e H & W C om pan y, Inc.. N ew ark, N ew Jersey I should like to read the s to iy o f a you ftg artist s adventures in N ew Y o rk S ociety , so please send me a free cop y o f "B eh in d G ilded C urtains' —you r latest beautifully illustrated sty le b ook . (H )

N am e

Street and N um ber

T ow n and State ^

'OoVd£ttAd ■ QjJvdU&O ■ f)'LCbdJ)-LeK&b.L lC E N S t D r n A D E M A R K


30 R A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

ou can have these v e ry same silk fro ck s that I r e n e C a s t l e w ears

A L L A

T h is C orticelli C repe E nsem ble frock sets o ff Iren e C astle ’s sm art slenderness w ith especial charm . I t s in teresting long sc a r f flares a t the ends into circu lar lines which g iv e an effect o f grace and m otion to its s tra ig h t silhouette. B oth in fab ric and inserts o f a ll-o ver lace tw o harm onizing shades are exquisitely com bined. A v e r y sm a rt frock for afternoon o r in form al d inner w ear!

F E D O R A

D u ll rich C orticelli s ilk faille suggested one o f th e sm artest coats Iren e C astle is w earing over her p re tty sp ring frocks. F ro m its tiny folded collar to its border o f susliki fu r it is slim and stra igh t as a pencil. F o ld s o f con trastin g C rep e T rem ain e a t revers and hem c a rry o u t the tone o f the lin in g and g ive great richness and b eau ty o f color.

T h e front suggests an ensem ble, in th is begu iling fro ck o f C o rtice lli C rep e T rem ain e— and indeed it h as the charm o f one! I t s perfec tly fla t b ack and gilet o f all-over lace combine to g iv e it unusual in terest.

I r e n e c A S T L EAyuntamiento de Madrid

f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 531

Photosrfipb 7rff Hill The "B e s t dressed w om an i n A m erica " ^ I r e n e CasUe

One exclusive shop in nearly every city has them

A N D charming as have been all the Irene Castle Corticelli ^ Fashions, you will agree that these little early summer frocks and costumes are quite the loveliest things designed in this silk season.

It isn’ t only that perfect taste and style sense which have long given Irene Castle the name o f being the smartest woman in this country— it’ s an unusual manipulation o f fabric, an exceptional clevernessofline,asurpassing interest andvarietyinthe modes selected!

The sports frock— the afternoon frock— the dinner frock— the very modes that Paris chooses for all times o f day— all so exquisitely varied in the Irene Castle Fashions that, regardless o f your needs, you will be able to find just what you want!

■f i i

'E R E are the colors Paris is wearing— subtle tones— striking or sombre— the shades Irene Castle chooses for her own blonde

beauty and colors for other types as well.Y ou will see just how Paris is using softly-draped and dull-finished

crepes— some o f them in circular godets and jabots, others in plain, straight lines. All the newest trimming touches which give Frenchfrocks their distinction.

Best of all you can select these fashions in the same lovely silks that Irene Castle likes, in the Corticelli Crepe Tremaine, the Crepe Eldora, the Crepe Ensemble and Satin Tremaine which so greatly enhance the beauty of her own frocks.

■f -f i

^T ^H E R E is just one exclusive shop in nearly every city which ^ carries the Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions. If you don’ t know

where they can be obtained, just let us know and we will be glad to send you the name o f the nearest dealer. Sketches and descriptions of the styles and fabrics chosen by Irene Castle are given in a new booklet— “ Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions.” Fill out the attached coupon and let us mail you this at once.

Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions, Dept. 387, 13 6 M adison Ave., N . Y .

H

V A L I A

I t w a s a C orticelli C hiffon o f unusual b ea u ty th at p r a c t ic a l ly d eterm in ed ju s t how this frock w as to be m ade; thereforeits lo v e ly om bre stripes are used quite s im p ly from shoulder to hem , and are em phasized on ly b y v e r y tin y tucks and b y touches o f lace and d a rk v e lv e t ribbon.

iR E N i; C a s t i x C o r t i c e l l i F a s h io n s

D e p t . 38 7 1 3 6 M a d is o n -A ven u e , N e w Y o r k

P le a s e s e n d m e fr e e b o o k le t s I h a v e c h e c k e d .□ I r e n e C a a t le C o r t ic e l l i F a s h io n s□ N e w C o r t ic e l l i S ilk s f o r S p r in g□ N e w C o r t ic e l l i S ilk H o s ie r y

N a m e ......................................................Street.....................

C ity . . S tate .

CORTICELLI Fa s h i o n s



LE T M U N S I N G W E A R C O V E R Y O U W IT H S A T I S F A C T I O N

MUNSING^ F u ea r

JVbmsincjweav is now obtainable in hosiety as well as in union suits. ‘The hosiery line comprises an exceptionally latye assortment o f numbers in the wanted colors and materials in styles fo r men, women, children, infants, and is already recognised by tbe trade as one of the great hosiery lines of the country. Thousands of h/Iunsinyweav dealers have already put lAum sinywear hosiery in stock and are selling the hosiery with tbe same confdence they have always bad in selling h/Iunsinywear union suits.LOhen buying your IVlunsingwear union suits, ask your dealer to show you samples o f h/tunsing- wear hosiery. You will fn d tbe sam efne quality and workmanship in the hosiery that fo r so many years have characterised all under garments bearing the IVlunsingwear trade mark symbol.

Munsingwear Qualihy Assures Comfovi and Service THE M UNSIN GW EAR C O RPO RATIO N

MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA


\R

From the poindnc by Qonin

c A sweeping hat, a slender parasol fo r spring sunshine; a luxurious w ra p fo r its cool w in d s—so alluring an outdoor ensemble that shimmering silk alone can complete it.

C h e n e y S ilks fo r a w om an 's dress— novel, daring, yet restrained— that reflect in every w a y the inspiration o f modern masters.

C H E N E Y B R O T H E R S FOURTH AVEN UE A T EIGH TEEN TH STREET N E W Y O R K


.4A 1.

T H E O N I Y W O M A N P E R F U M E M A K E R I N R i A n I S

P n E S E N T S

C H A U V C -S O U R I SP A C X U E T T E

M O N C H E R IP A R P U fV I E X T R A O R D I N A I R E

I L I A

rm

T H EG R EA TEST PER FU M E VALUE IN TH E WORLD

DOLLAR,m

T H IS P I C T U R E S H O W S A C T U A L S I Z E O F T N E B O X . C O V E R A N D T H E O N E D O L L A R B O T T L E

FROM. A PERFUME GENIUS TO A GREAT ARTIST: C h A U V E 'S O U R IS P A Q U E T T E O F M O N C H E R I.T H U S IN S P IR E D A N D M O D E S T L YP R IC E D AT ffil.SS IS REALLY A B R ILL IAN T SPEC IAL S IZ E O F THE DE LUXE FLACON O F M O N CH ER I SO FA M IL IA R TO A M E R IC A N G EN TLEW O M EN ,AN D RETA IL ING FOR S12.59 (GUARANTEED DOUBLE-LASTING BECAUSE IT IS MADE AND BOTTLED IN PARIS.) STO RES ARE BEING SUPPLIED AS FAST AS POSSIBLE BUT AS AN ACCOMODATION AN D TO ACQUAINT YOU IMMEDIATELY WITH THIS PARFUM EXTRAORDINAIRE UPON RECEIPT O F ffi I.oo WITH COUPON WE WILL SEND DIRECT TO YOU C H A U V E -S O U R IS PA Q U ETTE O F MON C H E R I AS SHOWN ABOVE AND WE WILL PAY ALL PACKING AND MAILING CHARGES.

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I CriCUA/XTg • - 'Pddt.Of "Fv-a-5 Ai-t ''hxtdfrilC

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P.S. G a b i l l a 's P o u d r e S u p e r f i n eMADE AND BOXED IN PAR IS - GU ARANTEED EXTRA F IN E

A M E R I C A N O F F I C E S E V E R E T T - G O U L D INC116 W E S T 3 9 T H . S T R E E T , N E W Y O R K

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I V E R Y IMPORTANT’ U NLIKE M ANY SO-CALLED FAMOUS “F R E N C H " P E R F U M E S I WHICH STIU RETAIN THEIR PARIS LABELS BUT ARE MANUFACTURED AND BOTTLED I IN AM ERICA , G A B IL L A P E R F U M E S A R E A N D ALW AYS W ILL B E M A D E A N D

BCflTLED IN PA R IS A N D A R E T H E R E F O R E G U A R A N T EE D D O U BLE -LA ST IN G .

X '' N.- Y v ' x y v '

EV E R E T T -G O U L D INC.P E R SO N A L S E R V IC E D EPA RT M EN T 116 W EST 39TH. STREET, N EW Y O RK

PLEASE S E N D M E .CHAUVE-SOURIS PAQUETTESFO R WHICH ENCLOSED W ILL F IN D n E M lT T A N C E .

CASH NAME;MONEY-O R06R

CHECKSTREET.

STAMPS C I TY=.

5


One 0/ the M oon innovations o f the year is the new Cabriolet roadster. The dec){ Iid opens up a fully upholstered rear seat “ a deux” . W ith the lid dou^n the caris a closedroadster. Concealed compartment for golf hagand other luggage. Rear window may he lowered for communication between passengers. (Patents applied for)

HEAD of its day with a distinct and different smartness, Moon enjoys an amazing prefer

ence wherever smartness is a s/^e qua non.For pride of possession is the chief satisfaction of the M oon family. Pride in its dauntless performance. Pride in its distinguished appearance. And as the miles roll up, a feeling almost o f affection for its clocklike regularity.So, in the metropoHtan style centers, where most of the motor-wise live, where there are more cars per unit o f population, you find Moon selling away ahead of its price class, outranking in registrations many of the makers who build more cars than Moon.

M O O N M O T O R C A R C O M P A N Y S T . L O U I S , U . S . A .


m .\or A P I

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|Jii: >■

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DALBY SILKNIT UNDERWEARWhere are the wide encircling raffles of olden days? Gone. A l l gone. Ju s t lissom perpendiculars in Fashion s gay geometry now.

g L IM N E S S -Fashion’s most fascinating little virtue! Makes you

think o f tripping feet and swaying dances— sculptured slenderness that can be made more youthful with Dalby Silknits. Here is underwear that is soft and clinging. Of purest silk— knitted to fit with delightful smoothness, yet allow luxurious freedom. It neither wrinkles nor climbs, and stays lovely and sheathlike always. A special process in the knitting insures exquisite finish and great durability. Dalby Silknit vests, bloomers, step- ins and union suits, in white, black and pastel shades, at the better stores.T h o m a s D a l b y C o m p a n y

W atertown, Mass.

Dalby Silknit Dealers:Mobil

ALABAM A . • • . . C . J- G a y fc & Co.

L . Hamincl Dry G oods Co. ARKANSAS

PortSinidl ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ W olf, Pollock Dry G oods Co.L i n l e R o c k ................. Walter A . M ats Co.

CALIFORNIA Bakcnfield Malcolm-Brcck Co.

PcfuscoU - ' Sc. Petersburg Tampa ' ' -

Covifla Culver D cy BICeacio - Escoadxdo ' FcesQO - '

OleodaleGlcodoraH ollyw ood - • HuociegtoQ Park Inglewood • • • Long Beacb ' ' Los Aflgelea '

- ' W . D. BtoadweU Co.' - J .B . Foss & C o.' ' B. SalomoQ & Co.' ' Escoodido Mercaocile Co.• - Cooptf'a, liK .

The wonder, loc .- • H -S . Webb Sc Co.' ' Rldeley Foss & Co.' - HolTyvrood Depc. Store ' ' Ridgeley-Maruo Co.* ‘ R. A . Watson Co.' ' Buffiim’s ' ' Tbe Bedell Coiopaoy

The May Corapany L . E. Miller Co- J. W. Robinson Co.Westlake Dept. Store

* ' Ridgley Booth & Co.' ‘ W . G .^ e e ly Co.' ' Tooker-JorJan Corp.' * Mioister’s, loc .' ' G . Rouse & Co.

' Hale Bros., loc .' ' Porter & Irvine• ' The Marston Cofflpaoy ' ' Cicy o f Paris Dry Go<MS Co.

GaotticT & Mattecn Co. R a p p e l Weill & C o ., Inc,

' ' Charles E. Foaen & Co,' • H . R . Hitchcock Co.' • The Kelly Company ' ' Fraolc Frlcdmao ' ' Crescent Dry Goods Co./ ' A - L . Chaffee & Co-

' ' ' Model Dry G oods Co. CONNECTICUT

* ' * Sage, AUcQ & Co.' ' •* Davidson & Leveothal> ' ' A . Loewy

' - Mary Brown Shop> ' ' M . Dankb ' • ' Sogenheiner Bros.

DELAWARE WUminfitoo ' ' • • • Sm ith-ZoU bgerCo.

DISTRICT O F COLUMBIA W ashbfitoti - ' ' ' ^JuliusGaffiockelCo.

Laosburgb & Bro.

Aurora • ' * Bloocuingcon ' Champaign > Chicago • ' •

Elgin

EvanstonGalesburgU Salle ' Quincy '

Elkhart

Evansville ' ' La Porte ' • ' Michigan City South Bend • Vincennes • • Washington '

Ocean ParkOraoM ' ' Pasadena * Porterville ' Riverside ' Sacramento SaJinas ** ' San D iego ' San Francisco

Burlington '

Ashland • LezbgtOQ

Bacon Rooge N ew Orleans •

$aa Luis Obispo Santa Barbara Sanra Monica Tulare - ' ' Tnrlock - ' ' Ventura ' - ' VisalU - ' '

Portland '

Baltimore

Hartford * N ew Britain N ew Haven Stamford - Tortiogron Watefbury '

Gardner ‘ Holyoke ' Low ell '

Marlboro ' * Natick ' ' • Needbara • • Newburyport

FLORIDA ' ' ' Watson, Parker & Reese Co.' ' 4 Robertson Company ' ' ' O . Falk’s Deparcmcoi Store

ILLINOIS ' ' - S. S. Senceobaugh Co.' ' • C, W . Kleomi, Inc.• • ' Your Shop. . ' Carson, P irie, Scott & Co.

Lanachaa C o., Inc.' ' ' I . Cobien & Co.

Joseph Speiss Co.' • ' L o r i’s. - ' K ellogg, Drake & Co,. . . Francis Kilduff . . . W - T . Duker Co.

INDIANA• • • Cbas. S. Drake Co.

E. K . Sykes « - ' Fowler, D ick St Walker ' ' ' The Boston Store ' ' ' Moritz 3c Son' ' ' R ob crooo Bros, Co.' ' ' G lm bel, Haoghton 3t Bond• ' ' H . Roberson Shop

IOW A > ' / ' JohnBoe&cbCo.

KENTUCKY ' • • ' C. H . Parsons Co,, Inc.• ' ' • A . M - Caden

LOUISIANA . . . . Farrnbacher Dry Goods Co.. . ' ' L . Feibleman 3t Co.

Tbe Exclusive Sbop The Seiler C o., Lra.

MAINE ' ' ' ' Thomas Smiley Co,

MARYLAND ' - ' - Hocbscbild, Kohn & Co

The Hub Huczler Bros. Co.

MASSACHUSETTS ' ' ' ' Coorad's

Jordon Marsh Co.Newcomb Thornton Sbop Spencer Corset Sbop R, H, Stearns Co.R. H . W hite Co.

• - K . Cohen i t Sons■ • ■ • McAuslao-Wakclin C o., Iflc• ■ • • Cherry * Webb

A . G . Pollard Co.' • ' ' Hurley & Tobin ' ' ' ' Catherine-Ellcn Sbop ' ' ' ' Betty Grav Shoppe '. . • . Boo Marche

M A S S A C H U S B T T S Pittsfield . - ' ' • Holden A StoneRoxbury ■ • ■ ■ ■ ‘ • 'rimothy Smith CompanySalem ' A ) my, Bigelow A

Waihburn, Inc. Watertowfl ■ • ■ ■ • Q a r t MitchellWorcester C. T . Sberet Co.

MICHIGANAnn A rb o r .............. ...... Wm. Goodyear & Co.Bay City . - - / - - H . G . Wendland Co.Detroit • ■ ’ • • • ' Newcomb, Endicocc Co. Flint a ' Herbert N . BushGrand Rapids • ' - - Paul Stckeice & Sons Jackson The A lderaan Co.Niles A - N . Hendleman Co.

MINNESOTA Minoeaoolis ' - ' • • La Ciel Corset Sbop

L. S. DonaJdsoo Co.St Paul The Golden Rule

MISSISSIPPIJackson Gordon Brothers

MONTANA Helena , . ~ • Sands Dry G oods Co,

NEBRASKA Omaha » Thomas Kilpatrick Co.

NEW JERSEYBast Orange - • - • ' R H .M u it.In c .Newark Habne & Co.

Oppenheim, Collins A Co. NEW YORK

A l b a n y ........................... ]0>>“ G - Myera Co.Waldmao Bros.

Amsterdam ' ‘ ' Holzheimci ASbaulBrooklyn ' * ' * Oppeoheira, C o llb s A Co.Buffalo Oppenheim, Collins & Co.Gloversville ■ - ■ ■ • Martin A N aylor Co.New Rochelle ' - ' • Howard R . Ware Corp-New York City • ' - Franklin, Simon & Co.

Hearn’s Lord A Tayloc Oppenheim, Collins A Co,

Schenectady ■ ■ ■ ' ■ S. Barney Co.Syracuse ■ • ■ • ■ ■ The B. W . Edwards Co.T^roy Tbe G ay Co.Utica - John Roberts Co-

NORTH CAROLINA Burlington ' • ' • ' & t . WhitcedDurham The Kronheimcr Co.Greensboro . • - ' • Fraser 's Style ShopRocky M ount - ' Belk Daughtridge Co.

Roscnblum & Levy Wbston-Salcm ' ' • ' D, G , Craven Co.

OHIOCleveland / » • - ' Oppeoheira, Collins & Co.

Wm. Tayloc Son A Co.

OKLAHOM A Oklabom aClty ** • - ' Kerr Dry G oods Co.

McMinn’sOkuiulgcc > ■ • • ' ' Knight's Lady ShopSapulpa • • • • ■ • Green’s Ready to Wear ShopTulsa • a . Hunt Depariment Store

PENNSYLVANIA Harrisburg' - ' ' ' * Pometoy’i , Inc.PbiladelphLs ' - ' • ' B. 1*. Dewees

Oppenheim, Collins A Co.J. B, Sheppard A Sons Co.

Pittsburgh • • • • r ' Kaufman Dept. StoresOppenheim, Collins A Co.

R ea d in g ........................... M . B- FritzSiwnton B .J . Loew y Hosiery ShopWilkes-Barre • • • • ' Fowler, D ick A Walker York Bon Ton

RHODE I S I ^ D providence • • • • Callender, MnAusIra A

Troup Co.Checxy A Webb Gladoing Dry G oods Co.Tbe Shepard Scores

W oonsocket • ■ > ■ • G oodoow , Morse, Brooks Co.SOUTH CAROU N A

Chulesron Kerrisoa Dry G oods Co.Columbia • - J. L . Mimnaugh & C o.Greenwood - Beaudroc (^ a lity ShopSpartanburg • ' ■ • • Greene wain’s. Inc.^ TENNESSEE

Chattanooga ■ • > • ‘ Schwartz Bros.Memphis • . . ■ ■ - J. Goldsmith A Sons Nashville • ■ • ‘ • Cascner-Knocr Dry G oods Co.

H. J. Gtiroes Co.TEXAS

Beaumont M ax Felnberg Co.? A. L . Hickey A Co.

Port W orth ' * • ' ' Monnig Dry G oods Co. G^TCston . . - « - ' The W omen’s Specialty Shop San Antonio ■ • > ■ • Joske Brothers

VERMONT Brattlcboro ' - ' - - J . F . Austin

Goodnow-Pearson-Hunt Co.F airhaven ..................... N . Y - Dry G oods CompanyMoncpelier ■ - > H, C. Gleason Co.

VIRGINIAL ynchburg ' • • • ■ • J. R, M ill net C o ., Inc. Petersburg • ■ ■ > ■ ' R\jcker Dry G oods Co. Portsmouth • ' • ' - Phillips*Adams C o., Inc, Richmond Miller A Rhoads

w nS T VIRGINIAChatletton Cox Dept, Store Co.Fairmonc . • « - - - J. M -H artley A Sons

WISCONSIN Milwaukee ' * * ' • The Herzfeld, Phil Upson C a


, r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 33

Feamring imported batik in charrrung contrast with patent leather or tan Russia

BEAUTY MATERIAL-m® A FOOTWEAR

In slippers as in gowns fliis season, material is inseparable from the mode, and so one wisely selects those smart innovations — crocodile, lizard, batik and the m any bued satins and hidshins sp on sored by I. Miller in bis original creations.

Show n at the shops of I. M iller in Xew York, Chicago and Philadelphia and his exclusive agencies throughout the country.

Wholaale Headquarters H A R R I S and E L Y A V E S .

I.O H G IS L A K D C IT Y

I. MILLER & SONSI N C O R

NEW YORKP O R A T E 3

CHICAGO PARIS

Retail Headquarters 562 F I F T H A V E N U E

NEW Y O R K crr Y


:a H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

The N E WVOILE

S E R V IC E ! B E A U T Y ! N O V E L T Y !R A R E combination — rich in design, rare in texture, beautiful in color. As appealing as color

ful prints, as striking as raised effects, as durable as the finest voile— and with splendid draping quality, for wom en’ s, misses’ and children’ s dresses. V ery moderately priced.

A t good retail stores everywhere.W rite fo r booklet o f 1925 designs.

M a x S c h w a r z T e x t i l e C o r p o r a t i o n 122 Fifth Avenue, N ew York

M a d e b y t h e m a k e r s o f " M o n t e C a r l o " F l o c k V o i l e

V L A I


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 35

■s-Y.-•k'-“

in Par^,9 P n e igcu cbu er.

.Q)S cJngtUs S3G Qomay Bldg.

m Jiruxdn,M yjLdg..

A T T H E ' B E T T E K S H O P S E V E R Y W H E K E

BnHr^-COntents copytighted by* M . G .C o .


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 537

narin v^'

a n CLathmtw T m m u t o f J i o S i e u q a n d Costume (hlou f o t S p u i n g a n d S u m m & i

■m e r i c a ’s leading exponent o f correct dress, Katherine Harford, the eminent style authority— formerly with Harper’s Bazar and now Director o f the Real Silk Fashion Bureaus in Paris and New York—provides in her new Costume Color

Harmony Charts an authentic forecast o f the latest color decrees for Spring and Summer.

Equipped with the most advanced information gleaned by our own fashion bureaus from the leading designers both here and abroad, Miss Harford, with her rare taste and artistry, has personally selected the most pleasing and appropriate color schemes for street, sports, afternoon and evening wear. In every combination she indicates just the right tints and hues for each item o f apparel, including hosiery, gowns, shoes, hats and accessories.

Katherine Harford’s Costume Color Harmony Charts will be sent FREE on request— without obligation— as a part o f Real Silk’s comprehensive fashion service.

Just as Real Silk offers this unparalleled aid in matters o f correct dress, so through Representatives who call at the home, Real Silk affords another unduplicated service by enabling the women o f America to procure wonderful Real Silk Hosiery direct from the Mills at Mill prices.

Real Silk Hosiery may be secured in fifty voguish shades. W ith this wide range o f colors to choose from, one is sure to find just the right tints to harmonize with every costume. The silk is guaranteed to be lOO'h pure, while to insure maximum service, top, toe and heel are woven o f finest lisle.

R e a l S i l k H o s i e r y M i l l s • I n d i a n a p o l i s , I n d i a n a

T H E R E IS A B R A N C H O F F IC E I N Y O U R C I T Y . C O N S U L T ’ P H O N E D IR E C T O R Y

(guaranteedH O S I E R Y

This gold button identifies the authorized Real Silk Repre-

aeotative when be ca U at your home


38

H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R H O T E L a n d T R A V E L S E R V I C E

Sw i t z e r l a n d

There is only on e—

That happ7 , beautiful, majestic little Republic o f the Alps, which for centuries has been the goal o f millions o f tourists from every part o f the world.

A tour of Switzerland is a most economical vacation. W e are constantly arranging most satisfying itineraries, one of the many advantages of which is that they avoid all rusk and cost compara-. tively little.

Let us show you how to see Switzerland, comfortably and well— supply you with numerous illustrated booklets, maps, etc., and make all arrangements for your tour.

W ouldn’t you like to go to Geneva, the world’ s peace capital, ever attractive for its beauty, wealth and intellect; to enjoy the delights o f distinguished Lausanne- Ouchy,an international center for education, and the mingled city and peasant life in Berne, the quaintest and most charming diplomatic city of Europe ?

You will travel in luxuriously equipped electric trains— via the Loetschberg route, for instance— to the kaleidoscopic Bernese Ober- land; and be a part of the fascinating life at its many gay resorts, particularly at the garden spots of Thun, Kandersteg-Gstaad and Interlaken. The glacier beauties arid pastoral life at Grindelwald i nd Wengen, the thrills o f the , ungfrau Railway to the top of the world, with the many side trips above cloudland to the Schynige Platte and Murren, will last forever.

■\nd beautiful Lucerne, where Swiss history was made hundreds o f years ago— with the fascinating country about.

Or the Grisons, where snow-capped peaks and blossoming valleys and famous St. Moritz, will add other thrills to your never-lo-be-forgotten days spent in Switzerland.

All Sporls in perfection and inexhaustible— Wonderful Golf every- vjhere.

Write far Swiss travel literature: address

S w iss F e d e r a l R ailroads241 Fifth Avenue, New York

D e a d l i n e sprotect no woman

again§t the loss of her personal

moneyOnly known crim inals tear the “ Deadlines” of the police. The word has no terror for pickpockets or occasional pilferers who are the cause of the greatest number o f money losses, among women. Working on the street, in stations, or wherever there are crowds, these sneak thieves, preying especially on women, operate quickly and well—'leaving their victims helpless of any redress.

A m e r i c a n E x p r e s s

T r a v e l e r s C h e q u e s

are the only protecting “ D eadlines.” A crook wants cash not Travelers Cheques. If your cheques are stolen or you lose them you simply report to the nearest American Express office and your loss has immediate attention.

Think o j A m erican Express Travelers Cheques not only as desirable for travelers. Think of them, and use them , to safeguard your personal money wherever you are.

O ver $30,000,000 in travelers cheques were used last year by «o«-traveIers. ^ 150 ,000,000 were bought by tourists, motorists and business men and women traveling in this country. $ 120 ,000,000 were carried abroad.

A m erican E xpress Travelers Cheques are the best known and most serviceable form o f insured money in the world. They are acceptable everywhere— good anywhere.

Besides, to carriers of American Express Travelers Cheques, is extended the helpful personal service o f experienced and locally well-known men in more than 26,700 Express offices in the United States and Canada, as well as everywhere abroad.

This service is most appreciated by women in crises, such as the loss of her funds, accidents, or other emergencies when she is a stranger in a strange place.

Issued in convenient leather wallets in amounts of $ 10 , $20, S50, and $ 100 , American Express Travelers Cheques are easy to obtain, easy to use, and ease all fear o f the safety of your money. The cost is only 75 cents for $ 100 .

F o r S a le a t 22,000 Banks and E xpress O ffic e s

Secure y p w steamship tickets, hotel reservations and itineraries; or plan your cruise or tour through A m erican E xpress Travel Department.

AmericanExpress

TravelersCheques

ENGLAND FRANCE

GERMANYOcean Travel

A t Its Best

COURTEOUS a t t e n t io n , excellent food, im

maculate cleanliness,unexcelled service leave nothing to be desiredfor your comf o r t a n d c o n v e n ie n c e . Large, staunch, speedy vessels disciplined under a world-renowned standard.

R e ^ U r sailings from N ew Y ork b y the S .S . C O L U M B U S , (la r gest and fastest G erm an sh ip ) S. S- S T U T T G A R T , a n d 5 - 5 . M U E N C H E N . calling at Plym ou th . C h crb ou te a n d Brem en, a n d to BR E M E N D IR E C T b ysuperb one-class ca b in ships.

Sum m er Cruises to “ T h e Land o f the M idn ight Sun“

Independent R ou n d -th e -W orld T ou rs

For Sailing, ratea, etc., apply 3 2 Broadway, New York

Boatoo Baltimore Pbllndolphis Cbccn^ San i^aaelAco

Naw Orlaana Galvaetoa Wiaoipsg

N O R T H G E R M A N

L L O Y D

A Show to Top the EveningW hen you com e to town O r i f you live in town You will find the Snappiest Show In all N ew York A t the CLU B ALABA M ’

T w o Shows nightly 10 P. M . and 1 A . M.

Diam44th Street Theatre

JuseWesc o f Sroadway For Reservations Lackawanna 7645 rSpecial Sunday Evening Dinner I <5IV 9—No Cover CFior;e J

■4

4• 4


39

H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R H O T E L a n d T R A V E L S E R V I C E

n c i i j p

% o W O R L D ^ C R U I S E S

S. s. R esolute Cruising SteamshipsTills 20,000-ton oil burner is especially adapted for cruising service. W id e decks, terrace cafe, conservatory, gymnasium, swimming pool, lounges — all promote the gala spirit of a yachting party.

ManagementThamanagcmentandpersonnei, e x p e r ie n ce d b o th in Trans-AtlanticandCruiseservice.haveoperated this ship o n many previous Cruises. Back o f them is a trained organization— to serve your needs afloat and ashore.

ItineraryM adeira.— Gibraltar— A lg er ia (Eastward)—Riviera(W estward) —Italy—Egypt—India—C eylon— Burma— Straits S ettlem en ts— Java— B orn eo— Philippines— C hina— Japan— Hawaii. Duration: 3 H months.

Rates from $X$00 upincluding shore excursions. F u l l d e ta ils o f c ru ise , it in - je rary a n d ra te s o n r e c e ip t o ! y o u r l e t t e r o r w ire. j

Cruises to West Indies next winter by S. S. Reliance.

UNITED AMERICAN UNBSH A R R I M A N L IN E

35-39 BtoadwaVi N e w Y o rk ; 131 State St. .B o s to n ; 230 S ou th 15th St.. P h iladelphia ; 177 N o . M ichigan A v e .. C h ica g o ; 574M arket St., San Francisco; 87 St. James St., M o n tre a l; o r lo ca l agents. ,

T h e U n ited A m erican L inea opcracfi • a jo in t service w ith Ham burg Ameri* ca n L ine t o France, England and G erm any, o n the de luxe steamers

w - R esolute, R bliancb, A lbert Ballu a n d D eutschland , a n d cabiit Steamers C le v b la n d . T h u s in c ia . W eb 'IT haua a n d M o u n t C la y . Send for schedule.

V ’ W Y W T W 'V V V Y Y T T T Y T T Y

Attractive Tours—®55S and up36 D ays a n d L o n g e r . F r e q u e n t S a ilin g s , M o s t C o m p le te Itin eraries

I t a ly , S p a in , S w it z e r la n d , F r a n c o , B e lg iu m , H o lla n d , E n g la n d , G e r m a n y , M e d ite r r a n e a n a n d C on tx rren ta l C o u n tr ie s

O ff i c i a l A g e n t s A l l S team M hip L in e s

One of the oldest Travel Organizations in tlie world. 50 years • of satisfactory service to t ie traveling public and permanent offices in Europe assure our clients many advantages.

Our Tours have no equal— the personal attention we give each Tour guarantees t ie best o f service throughout.

S e n d f o r “ B o o k D ” f o r D e ta ils a n d R a te s 4 th A n n u a l M a d ile iS ^ e a n C r u is e — C u n a r d S . S . ••ScythFa' ’— J a n u a r y , 1 9 2 6

F R A N K T O U R I S T C O M P A N Y5 4 2 F ifth A v e n u e , N e w Y o r k

A t B a n k o f A m e r ic a . L o s A n g e le s ,582 M a r k e t S t . . S a n F r a n e is c o(E s ta b . 1875) 219 S o . 1 5 th S t . , P h ila d e lp h ia P a n s — C a iro — L on don ^

America’s Foremost Resort Hotel

5 0 m inutes from F ifth AvenueW ith Spring here and Summer “ just around the corner”— thoughts turn from the daily rounds o f city life to grassy slopes, w ooded vistas, fair countryside Briarcliff Lodge.Ivy covered, with its English gabled ro o f and tall brick chimneys, Briarcliff Lodge looks dow n in friendly dignity upon the virgin w oodland and gently rolling W estchester Hills. In a park o f 300 acres, with rniles o f charming walks, and at 600 feet elevation, here the great outdoors welcom es you to its exclusiveness and its fascination.Those w h o have enjoyed the Lodge’s hospitality need n o introduction to the spacious lounge room s; cheery dining room s where delicious, appetizing food is served; the ballroom , scene o f many enjoyable evenings; and the broad verandas with distant views w hich invite rest and quiet.For the m ore strenuously inclined, there is always the championship golf course, tennis courts, riding and swimming.

W in ter Rates in E ffec t to M a y 1st

Chauncey Depew Steele, Proprietor Briarcliff M anor—Scarborough Station

Westchester County, N . Y.T elep h on e B ria rcliff 1 64 0


40

H A R P E R ' S B A Z A K H O T E L a n d T R A V E L S E R V I C E

^ M illion T ^ e o p l e

i n ^ e n ^ a r sA l m o s t two million people

•LXV. crossed the ocean on our ships in the past ten years*, crossed the wide seas in supreme comfort, mingled pleasantly with pleasant people— met courtesy and friendliness all the way.

Ours is a vast service— but human. A service that imderstands the traveler’s every whim— and meets it. A service that has provided the best of ocean travel for more

than half a century.

W H I T E S t a r L i n e

A tlan ticTkANSPORTLiNE’ RED S t a r L ineI n t e r n a t i o n a l M e r c a n t i l e M a r i n e C o m p a n y

No. 1 B r o a d u « , ,N c ,o Y o r J ! ! 1 2 7 So. S w tc St.. C h ic a g o ! 4 6 0 M arlcct St.. S a n FraT iciico j 8 4 i t , I S ia , S ,™ *-5 " « o S t s . ’ P h ilo d e lp h io ! 2 1 4 M o je t t ie B Id g ., D e tro it ! M a iete icH ote l B Id g ., l l e h a n d Ptne % u.. St. LoMisi U n io n Trttrt B Idg., P ictshurgh; M c G ill BIdg.,

M o n trca li o u r o ffices e ls ew h e te , o r a u th orized stea m sh ip ogen t.

ITALIAN LLOYDSccSiUuio

N «w D e L u x e O il B u r n in g S te a m e r s

C O N T E V E R D Ea n d

C O N T E R O S S OT h e P e e r le ss L in e rs fo r M e d ite r r a n e a n T ra v e l

G E N E R A L P A S S E N G E R O F F IC E S ;3 State Street, N ew York

H O T E L ST. J A M E S1 0 9 - f 1 3 W e s t 4 6 t h S t . , N e w Y o r k C i t y

M i d w a y b e t w e e n F i f t h A v e n u e a n d B r o a d w a yAn hotel o f oulet dJgoity, bi-vlDg the atmosphere and appolntrDeols o f a wcll-concllcioocd home.M uch favored by women traveling without esoort. 3 mmutcs* walk to 40 ihm trcs and oil beet ahopa. Ratsi and booklet on apvliccticn

W . J O H N S O N Q U IN N

G R A N D S U M M E R C R U IS E J U L Y 1 N O RW AY-W eslerrt M E D IT E R R A N E A NSp ecia lly c tm rte red n ew 'X an c az tria .” 53 days, S s s o y p , including hotels, gu id es, d rives, fees. F asc in a tin g it in e rary ; sto p-overs.

M A Y -J U N E E U R O P E A N T O U R S 1926 W orld Cruise, Jan. 20; Mediterranean, Jan. 30

Longest experienced croise manasemenl F . C . C L A R K T im e s B u ild in g , N . Y .

E U R O P EUausuaHy Interesting, escorted and hTours, all e x p e n s e s included, O O O u p I

INDEPENDENT TOURS EVERYWHEREOaU or tvrlie fo r Folder

D eaN eD aW SO N bT D .500 Fifth a.venue,New'K)rk

Eat. 54 years 30 E u iop ea n O fflc* .

EUROPEAN VACATION TOURA d e lig h t fu l s u m m e r c o m b in ia g re cre a t io n , a g r e e a b le s o c ia l e x p e r ie n ce s a n d e d u ca tio n a l o p p o r tu n it ie s , m a y b e e n j o y e d b y a l im ite d n u m b e r o f g ir ls , w ith ch a p e r o n e fa m il ia r w ith E u r o p e a n t ra v e l.

W r i t e M r s . K ATriEniN E B . R o b e r t s , E a s t O ra n g e , N . J , P . O . B o x 16 7

Piinius Grand Hotel

C o m o { I t a l y )

Best Situation On The Lake

First Class Accommodations

E U R O P E B Y M O T O RIn clu sive rates fo r tr ips o r cars fo r h ire any period , Itin eraries p la n n ed b y tra v e l experts o r arranged to o rd er fo r E n gla n d a n d the C on tin en t.

W rite fo r B ooklet A with m aps

FRANCO-BELGIOUE TOURS CO.(A n A m e r ic a n C o m p a n y )

157 W e s t 4 2 n d S t . , N e w Y o r kL o n d o n P ar is B ru sse ls N a p le s

Plan Your Summer Trip

A L L s ig n s p o i n t t o a c r o w d e d s u m - ra e r a t e v e r y w o r t h w h i le r e s o r t

in A m e r ic a a n d a h r o a d .I f e e l s u r e t h a t o u r T r a v e l S e r v ic e

m a y o f fe r y o u v a lu a b le h e lp e it h e r in p la n n in g y o u r t r ip o r in e n g a g in g p a s s a g e o r a c c o m m o d a t io n s f o r y o u i f y o u h a v e a lr e a d y p la n n e d i t .

R e m e m b e r , t h is s e r v ic e e x is t s t o b e o f s e r v ic e t o y o u . D o n o t h e s ita te t o w r it e .

A d e l in e S n a p p , T r a v e l S e r v ic e o f H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r , i i g W e s t 4 0 t h S tre e t , N e w Y o r k


41

iV1

H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R H O T E L a n d T R A V E L S E R V I C E

F O U R W E E K S IN E R A N C Eat thQ Q ostaj^aa o rd in o rg v o e o t i o n

A G O L D E N n oon under striped u m bre lla s— chicken en casserole fit for a prince and his

court . = . Barbizon. A m illion jewels in the air, tossed against the s k y -th e spirit o f history in lovely and stately rooms— gardens that make you dream ott h e l o n g a g o —Versailles, w ith thefountams playing.M oonrise from Sacre-Coeur. Tw ilight in the Bois.

A day at the races w ith every mannequin in Paris looking her very smartest. Dinard, Deauville, Le Touquet, Biarritz— and all the chic w orld o f three continents spending millions to make a spectacle for you. The Riviera w ith summer prices— jeweled w ith little red roofed towns and sparkling beaches, banded by the Cornichc Road where every turn provides a never-to-be-forgotten view.

There is Marseilles, almost a port o f oriental North Africa. The French Alps and the Pyrenees are accessible by means o f wonderful m otor roads. The chateau country makes romance and medieval fable live again.

You know, o f course, that you can go to France this summer for $ 14 0 in the large French Line one- cabin liners—w ith French service and French cooking. You can even make a round trip for $ i6i ,9^^” ist III class, w ith individual rooms, as the college boys and girls are doing. Y ou can take yoi^ car along w ith you, uncrated, and drive it oft the dock at Havre. You can live w ell in France-and tour—on six dollars a day. Write for Booklet.

f f r ie n e h ffA eCompagnie Ginerak Transatlantique, 19 State Street, New York

Ed inburghy “ The M od e rn j 4thens'On the London a n d N o r th Ea ite rn R a iliv a y

Through ffiritaln with the Of lying (Scotsman??

T h e swiftest train over the shortest route from L on don to Edinburgh, via the L ondon & N orth Eastern Railway.

T h rou gh the w ooded hills and green meadows o f M iddlesex and H ertfordshire; the land o f the Pilgrim s, w here the Am erican N ation was conceived; the Yorkshire M oors and Dales; the N orthum berland Fells; into the w ild beauty o f the Scottish Highlands.

It traverses the scenic,historic route through a country richer in cathedrals, castles, abbeys and historical remains than any other in England and Scotland.

T h e L on don dcN orth Eastern Railway’ sRoyal M ail Routes, via Flarwich, form the ideal link between England and Continental Europe.

M ake your trip through Britain a “ L o n d o n -

N o r t h - E a s t e r n ” tour. Save tim e and m oney, and still see everything that matters.

Let t h e “ L o n d o n - N o r t h - E a s t e r n ” A m erican representative plan the details for you. Intensely interesting illustrated booklets for the asking. Com m unicate w ith

H . J . K E T C H A M , G e n e r a l A g e n t

Londov ( S N t n k E e i l c n B a i lw a y

j l l F ifth A v en u e , N ew Y o r k

Offices and Agencies in Principal Cities o f Europe and the United States

L O N D O NANDNORTH EASTERN

R A IL W A Y

O F E N G L A N D A N D S C O T L A N D


42

Girls’ Camps

A Camp for Girls r.;'2o'""Cboics lofMtJrtn. SO serc«. aliffudo 1800 fe«C. All camp tctinti«a * inqluHlne ^IP. ridioe, alhletics. w aur •po/’iji, handicrafit hiktrur, boating, canoelAK, dratruitica. and danelair. l^pa^ialtiaa: good Pocd, hcNne (tare. h)k;h rnora) t«na. EaaUy aeeeaaible by ran anrt mnlrr. Undar oaraonnl aqpairiaion r>f n * v . a n d M r s . R . CAftK. S T O L L , 2 0 C a l t e g a Hill. S n y d e r , N e w Y o r k .

Ms-lie OMirw the tlWTit LauKI. os O'! fii'. .'4 /o4t over* all— nprcd 2/) mtii'S sn Aour

CAMP MYSTICcoS S t" M I S S J O B E ’ S C A M P F O R G I R L S ’ *

T h e flalt w ator ca m p fo r girls. H a lf w ay b etw eeo N e w Y o rk a n d B oston . L ife in th e N e w B naland hills, w oods, a o d b y tb e se o . U nusual b x iild li^ , ten t b u »s a 1o\va, tennis courts. M o d e rn a a n lu ilo n . s a lt w ater spores. S lxty-D ine life savers g raduated 1924, Safe canoeing, h orseback riding . D anelng , field athletics, a rcs a n d crafts, d ram atics. C om p life and trips under th e personal d irection o f M iss Jobe, w ho h as h a d tw elve seasons o f p ractica l experience Csammer and w in ter) in ca m pin g and exploration In the C& oadlan R o ck ie s and Sierras. C a re fo r the sa fety a n d health o f each cam per. Juniors and Seniors. A c e S>1 S. llln ?tra ted b ook le t .

M A R Y L . J O B E , A .M . . P . R . O . S . .R o o m C , 1 2 2 E . 3 7th S t.. N o w Y o r k C U y

— M O N A U K E —A n I s l a n d C a m p f o r G i r l s

O n L a k e S u n a p e e . I n N e w H a m p s H ir e .W rite f o r in terestin i bookUi.

M a r g u e r i t e B norFoiip , D irector , L a c o n ia , N . H .

Camp FarwellOn beautiful lake in G reen M ou n ta in s o f V e rm ont. F in e h o rs e s . E v e ry g ir l l e a m s t o r id e . F anvcll e lrls kn ow the ioy a o f life In the opoii w ith swlincnlng. canoeing, tennis s o d other land and w ater sports. D ram atics, Crafts, BuoKalows. T en ts . H o t an<l co ld running w ater. C a refu l su p erv l^ on . Senior a n d Junior C om ps. 20th year. Illustrated booklet.

Address M ils Rosalie P . SanderMn 3245 CUvelaDd Avenue, N. W. Wssblnflon, P . C.

Camp Neecarnis s STs.B ig S t a r L A h e B a l d w i n , M i c h .Individual a tleu tlon g iven eaen oLild. W ater S ports H o n a b a c k , T on n is , H a n d era fti. B ook le t. MlBS E dith n , H olt, 10 F l t c b P l a c e . G rand R apids, M ich.

W A N A L D AF o r GlrlB T o rch L ake, M ich igan .

J u olors— Seniors— Y o u n g W om en , 110 A cres N o r th o m M ichlgaiL A ll L an d and W a te r Sports. H orace. H o ck e y . C rafts- B ranch C a m p fo r C a poe T n p a C orrectives N o teats. N o extras. T u to r s C ounselors positions filled. B ook le t Address* C A M P W A N A L D A , P . O . C e n t r a l U k e . M i c h i g a n

E G G E I V I O O G I N Cainp for GirlsN ew M e a d o w s B a y E a s t H a rp e w e ll. M a in e E levon ih seasoa E xp er ien ced supervisors<>n sa lt w ater R es iden t nurseH orsrbaok rid ing froe J u n ior and S oolor C am ps A ll s p c r u A gee S t o 20

Acashoro. W o o d s a n d C o u n try C om bined T u it i o n 332 9 .0 '' L a u a d r v o n l y e x tra

l } > « c / o r lU tts lr n U d b o o t d e i s w i n t e r A d d r e t s P r in c ip a l a o d M r s . £ . L . M o n t g o m e r y

F a ir m o n t S c h o o l 2 1 1 1 S S t ., N . W . , W a sh J n ftto iJ . D . C .

H

What Price Camping I YTE variety o f camps in this issue ofA H arper’s Bazar -will m eet every finan

cial ancJ physical requirement. Depending upon location, equipment and size, you will find in these pages camps ranging from ^150 to i?500 for the season.

And there is no need to cramp your selection with the limiting thought o f location. For here you will find more than 70 camps from Canada to the Gulf Stream. W ould you prefer a camp on Lake M emphrem agog or Lake Junaluska? Simply study these pages. Here you will find the finest and the best. And best o f all, they are recommended b y Harper’ s Bazar.

And always remember that if you find it difficult to make a choice, you can write to us and we shall be glad to help you. Of course there is no charge for this service. Tell us about your children, and we will tell you about the camps.

K E N N E T H N . C H A M B E R S, Director H A R P E R ’S B A Z A R C A M P D E P A R T M E N T 119 W est 40th St. N ew York City

Girls’ Camps

Camp K y -T {hOn Lake Sebago, Maine

t 'O R girls 8 to 18 . 150 f- acres of pine woods. 3,600 ft. o f waterfront. Unique buildings. N e w w ooden b u n g a l o w s com pletely e q u i p p e d . M o d e r n san ita tion . R id in g , s w i m m i n g , canoeing, motor-boating andallfieldsports. Under leadership o f specially trained councillors.

M r< ! M n l r n i m R I w e s t e n d a v e n u e , n e w y o r k c i t yi v i r s . i v i d i c u i m n . J . . a w r e n c e , t e l e p h o n e — e n d i c o t t 6 407 .

C A M P J U N A L U S K A , L a k e J u n a l u s k a , N . C . O ne o f tb e finest “ a ll r o u n d " ca m ps In th e South fo r G irls. I n " L a n d o f t h e S k y ” near AghcvUIc. Sw im m ing, canoeing, b orsob a ek riding , m ountalfi clim bing , sb ootln g , a rts a n d crafts, n ature lore. C o m p lete eq u ipm ent. R es iden t pbyslclan . Illue- tra trd ca ta logue. M isa E t h e l J . M c C o y , D irector, V irgin ia f 11 terra on t CoHogo, B risto l. V.*».

O A H E — A Cam p fo r GirlsA ca m p o f Individua lity . Enrollraent. 60 girls. S ituated 00 on e o f those lov a b le lakes lo Southern N e w H&mpablro. 70 acres. A ll land and w ater sporte. H orseb ack rid in g . H a n dcra fts . E xperl- e o eed coun cilors . Ju ly Ist— A iigust 28tb , illu stra ted b ook le t . M iss S ara R , C arter, T h e A von , 6 E a st R e a d S iroot, B a lllfnoro , M d -

Girls’ Camps

S I L V E R L A K E C A M P SF or Girls. In Lake Placid Region o f ike A dirondacbs. Separate Camps— Ju h iors.

8‘ 14; Seniors, 14-20 E v e ra p rov is ion lo r cx>rnfortabIe. pleasant

ca m p life . L a k e and m ou n ta in s com b in e to lorra a b eau tifu l p laygroun d. C anoeing, horseb a ck riding , swlnamina. m ou n ta in cKmblnu. E x p e rt d irectors fo r ev ery a ct iv ity . R es istercd nurse. O pen-air d in in g-room a n d sleeping porches, _ R eferen ces required. Catalog, A ddress C a m p D irector , B rom ley School-

B O X 2 T , B R A D F O R D , M A S S .

C /o r x o u #S u m m e r C a m p in g f o r G ir l*

'W y n o n aL ak e M o re y , F a irlee , V t.

Splashing b y th e fioat o r d iv in g lu to c o o l w ater w ith o u t a rfpp ic— W y n o n a g irls lo v e both . C o m p eten t Instructors teach them a ll sports a n d a th le tics— g o lf . tennU , h iking, riding ICon- tu eky horses. O vern igh t trips. D ram atics. C o m fy cabins, c lcc tr lc ligh ts. E ntbim lastic counsellors. I llu stra ted b ook let. W Y N O N A'CAM P, 276 SumDier Si.. Fitehburf, Mass.

L a k e M o r e y Club— a m o d e m h o te l u nder ^ m o tnanaBom ctit

B E N D I T OA bunga low ca m p fo r girls a t beautifu l K arrlson,

M a in e . E igh ty acres o f fie ld and forest. H orseb a ck r ld io r th rou gh fragrant, sh a d y trails. W ater sp orts a long o u r 1 ,650 fo o t beaeh o f w liito sand. A g es 7-16 years. R eferen ces required.

M iss P h o e b e G . H oskcll, 6 4 W a ln u t St. N a tick , M ass,

TbE PATnV®ERS’ LOP&SA w ood lan d ca m p

fo r girls M rs. D ou g la s B aanctt

O lse g o l4 ik c C o o p crs to w o . N - Y - I 7 B a 8 t b 7 c b ^ t- ,N ,Y .

Firs. Norman W hiio'sCarnps in ihe J^nes.

‘ O W AISSA *’ "M A Y F L O W E R "A g e » 1 3 -1 8 fo r QtrU A g r t 8 -1 2

S u r f B a t h in g f o r S p o r t , S t il l W a t e r fo r I n s t r u c t io n

O rg a n ise d A th le t ic s , D r a m a t ic s , A r t e a n d C ra fts RtPrtscnlalives m ay be interviewed in

B oston or N ew York I l lu e tr a te d b o o k U ie o f* 'O w a ie s a * '

o r M a y f l o w e r ” w ill b e s e n t u p o n retru est t o

Mrs. Norman White, Orleans, MassachusettsCAMP TRAIL'S END for Girls

R e a l ca m pin g In K en tu ck y . E xp er ien ced sta ff. S ports, r ld ir^ . sw im m ing, crafts, trips. Unusual lo ca tion . W r ite fo r b ook let. M iss M a ry D e W Iit Snyder, 361 B. B road w a y , L exii^C on , K y .

Camp Watatic, for GirlsO n L a k e W in n ek cog , Ashburnham , M ass .. l 2fX )-ft e levation . W a te r sports. F re e H orseb aok R id ing. N o extras. C A T A L O G o f M ibb A . H . R o u e h ts , B o x 488. W estfie ld , M ass.

C a m p N e w a k aF or G irls. G o ld L ak e , C olora do . N e a r Estca F o rk . A l l the a ctlv ltica o f health fu l ca m p life, w ith rid ing a feature. N o extras. RcCcrcncea required. F o r B ook le t, w rite M a r y K . V oor- HBEB, A p t, B , 4526 M cP h e rso n A v o „ St. L ouis, M o,

A R E Y L a k e K e u k a , N . Y .I l t h Season

T h e ca m p o f happiness th a t develops b o d y and cboraoter.

M r s . A t td r c G . F o n t a in e . R o s fy n H e ig h ts . N . Y .

A L O H A CLU BA C a m p f o r O l d e r G i r l s .

A ll sp orts. C rafts . H orseb ack rli^ la g . E x ce llen t g o lf . A ddress

_ M R S . E . X . C U L IC K .77 Aisatnglon Road B rookline, M ass,


43

S e l e c t Y o u r C a m p f r o m H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r ’ s R e c o m m e n d e d L i s t

G i r l s ’ C a m p s

GlrlB. O n b e a u -p i n A T r 6 C C s n i p Uful Naomi Labe¥ ’ . CPU In nlne-Iaden a ir o l P o co u o

T X U n iS n s F ou r t o u r s Icom N ew Y o r k a n d P h llu -

t ; „ , l . , n l a , P h l l a d o l p h i a . 4 0 * W . S c h o o l L a n .

- a l l p i n e s c a m p

I ' S soorM , h orseba rk i ld l t g , a rts a n d cralta. ¥ h E c l u b fo r g irls ov er 18 -l l i s a EVELIKA RBAVELBY, B o x H , E lm w ood , N . H .

, A lfon, E a st U a , iviias FLO*

gsmo=Oa=pD (wlSaratd), C o r n is h . M a in e .t d irector. U n iq u e llv lr^

t ••screened ou t-o i-a oors .L ra tin g S ta te B o a rd o f

. . rocreatlo im l trainlug ■ 7 -20. HELEN M a y o , %?s. P h o n e , P ark w ay 2700.

rs CAMPS ir l s

C ircu lar Sent . . . o n RO Q U C St

* 142 E . 4 0 t t St.,'■» N ew Y o tk

C A M P Y O K U M for G IR LSI t lO t u d e 1875 ft . C rysta l clear BPm o f a "■BhB or. RLimmlt o l Berkflhlrcs. 107 Of tne iincsc pipIr 111 th e nation E v ery land a n d w ater sp ort K a V c x ? e r t i « d “r's. E l ^ t w eeks S250. L aundry horseback riding, tu toring on ly exH-M. C ou u cllor Eoslilona filled. Illustrated Booklet.

M a r y E R irH A R oaox, no W o o d m o n t Street, M lttln cag u c, M ass.

C A M P B R Y N A F O NL a n d o ’ L a k e s— R o o s e v e l t . W is c o n s in

land and w ater soorla . SM tr o l M C ollege omen. P riva te L ak e . T ra ils lo r h orseback

tid ing Screened slooplng bungalow a w ith kard - oo ir floora. B o o k le t— L o iT A BROAbBRinon,

493 B o o k n id c . . D etro it, M Icli.

rCAMP NEHANTIC for GIRLSC r s s e e n t B e a c h , C o n n e c t i c u t

Selected oom pon ion s, U u lquo in ita com blnatloQ o f fccaaborc. cou n try and w oods. L a n d a n d w aw r K o r la . h orsoback riding. Quest sa lt w aW r sv r im m l^ | n d bathing. Seventh eooson. W rite lo r a booKlO^ R fr , and M rs H arry D avlaon , 5333 R isin g Sun > v e „ P hlla,, P a,

, C A M P A L L E G R Ob o y o u a l i f e a t S ilver L ake. N . H . N e w experlenc® RiRd advonturefi. develop ing self-reliance, unacWish- mcas E v ery e a m p a ctiv ity o n land and water, n ilustratea b o o k le t m e b . B l a n c h e C a b st e n s , *712 G ardens A p t., F orest Hllla, L , I .. N . Y -

EAGLE’S NEST CAMP No i?'’ rolrn.aKldlQE, sw im m ing, b ikes, crafts, n ature Icwe, dra- ■matJea. In te lligent a tten tion t o in d lv ldn a l t ^ d s . lE s c e l le n t f o o d . A g e a 6 -1 « ; $300.00. N O E X T R A S , ic o u n c l l lo r a already engaeed . W O W lo r B ook let. l M r a . F r « c l e r l c M y e r s , 6 2 0 E . 4 0 t h S t . , S a v a n n a h , G a .

A C A M P T H A T IS D IF F E R E N TT h « S id n e y L a n ie r C a m p

■ P l a c e t a q u a R iv e r , C l io t , M a in e . ^ ,■ o id - t lm e C ountry C o m m u n ity p lanned fo r w noio - ■ s o m e w o r t and fun . F arm BacU ground. Cam p l ^ r t e . F ie ld Sporia . Etipllsh C ou n try D ancing . ■cS u n o O rchestra, C horal Ringing. Indian P ottery .

A d dress: M e8. S io n b y L a n ib k , JR., O ne P rescott Rtroet, G reenw ich , Conn.

CAMPNAIDNI Lake Dunmore, Vl. For Girls, S to 21

-J oeree. H m ile lake fron t. Id ea l v a ca tio n cam p. D utdoor sports, c ra fu , g yp sy in g . 50 g irls on ly . For illustrated b o o k le t app ly to M rs. C . O.' Hlllaldc R d , M t . KISCO, N , Y .

0 . BrtttcD,

THE LUTHER. GH iM a in e

CAMPS

PS e b a g o - W o h e lo f b r - g i f l i ,

1 3 t o 1 8 .

L it t le W o fa e lo ( o r g ir ls8 to 13 a B e H P j

C a m p T im a n o u s f o r b o y sM ig is L o d g e s f o r g r o w n -u p s ---------- --

S u m m e r a d d r e s s , 'S o u t h C a s c o , M a in e W in t e r a d d r e s s , 1 2 2 H ig h S tr e e t , P o r t la n d , M a in e

Ogont)'^hite

Mountairv.Camp

fo r Girls

p R O M the moment the sun teases you awake until you snuggle into your cozy bed at night, you love every hour

at Ogontz Camp. . ,Paddling down a mountain stream, cantering througn

pine forests— singing b y the blazing campfire. A happy summer home o f merry girls and capable councillors. All sports. No extra charge jor riding. Complete equipment, dramatics, arts and crafts. Tutoring and French conversation if desired as part of Tuition, joc^acre preserve.

T H E C O L O N I A L CAVALCADE

A u n iq u e H O R S E B A C K T R I P t h r o u & h is to r ic N E W E N G L A N D . -A th r illin g a d v e n tu re f o r b o y s . E d u ca t io n a l, recrea t io n a l, s o c ia l. J u n e 29t h t o S e p te m b e r 4t h . A g e s 1 4 t o 2 1 .V is it W e s t P o in t , L o s t R iv e r ,N . H . , T h e F lu m e , P ro fi le M t . . F ra n e o n ia N o t c h , M t . W a s h in g to n . C o n c o r d a n d L e x in g t o n , M a ss . A p p l ic a t io n s c o n s id e r e d in o r d e r o f t h e ir rec e p t io n . W r it e

H A R O L D B . S T U A R T 551 W e s t I 5 7 th S t . . N e w Y o r k C ity

PO K -O -M O O N S H IN EA dlroD dacta. 2 0 tb voor, 30 CnuaaeJIpra. son acres. B oye , 8~ ls , g rou p ed in 5 dJstlocS sec llou s . Address—

D R . C . A . R O B IN S O N B ox A 4 P E E K S K Il-L , N . Y .

B O N N I E D U N E — C a p e C o d , M a a a ,A l l th e fu n o f cam n, a ll the care o f h om e g iv en a few b o y e (8^14 years) o n brceay .

I sunn y, h ea lth y C a p e C od .M rs. D w ig h t L . R ogers.

D w ig h t L . E w e r s Jr., D irectors,14 Parkslde .Road, Providence. Rhode island

A s h n o c a C lu bI n t h « M d u n t e i ln * o f N o r t h C a r o l in a

T h e m o s t b e a u t i fu l a n d b e s t e q u ip p e d su m m e r r e c re a t io n p la n t f o r b o v s m A m e r ica . 7 1 4 a c r e t r a c t . l a r g e la k e . M o d e m b u ild in gs . A l l o u t d o o r sp o rts . L im ite d n u m b e r .

A d d r e a aG e o r e e J a c k s a n , A s h e v i l l e , S c h o o l ,

A S H E V l L L E , N O R T H C A R O L I N A

TH O R P E C A M PF O R B O Y S u nder IS y c o is . O n tv ia con - elD lake. B unga low s. F ie h li^ . P onies. Sw im m ing. U nusual care. C A T A L O G o fB ox B .. T h o r p e A c a d e m y . L a k e F o ro a t. HL

C henango-on-O tsego ?-O a b eau tifu l O tsc.go L ake,A Camp Thai Groxcs Thru Its A woDOCTluI p la yg rou n d o f w ater, rotB . Qeld and forest G o o d lo o n In abu a da n ce . in te llig en t and sy m p a th e tic su p erv l^ on . A ll spottB, H orses, iA tn

2 4 N o - T erra co , M a p lew ood , N . J.

' r i T- W T — D r r On Uke OssipeeW J X 4 -1 i i J In iHe While Mts.

A P ion eer C a ia p , e n d on e o f Uie best, " A m o n g the first three o n ou r list, " s a y s a w ell-im ow n a u th orliy . AU tb e sp orts. C arefu l in s t r u c u ^ Fine results. J u a ior C a m p ^ a r a w , J o r circu lar and p h o to s address John C . B u r t e r (Prm . P eeksld ll A ca d e m y ), B o x B , PceksK lll. N . Y . Pine Knoll. Mrs. Bucher's Camp f « Girls. 14 miles dislanl.

Camp Terra Alta

C5C A M P S O K O K I S F O R B O Y SB rlclgton, M e - A scnaU h o m e cam p o n L o n g L a k e In foo th ills o f W n ll? M ts . Jun iors a n d seniors. B unga low s, lO tli season. B ook let.L ew is C . W illia m s , 171 W . 12 th St.

N e w Y o r k C i t y C h e l s e a 3 7 7 9 .

N o n * m iU fa r>Dlreeted bv CommandarU of Staunton Mititary Academy O n L ak e T e rra A lta , m ain

ll jic B . & O . R .R ., 130 m iles S. E , o f P ittsb u rgh . E levation 2800 ft - 520,000 equJ|>- m enc. A th le tic a n d w ater sports, bow linp , bU Ila im w ireless, hikes. P h ys ica l drill a n d target practice . T utoring. M u sic . 8225. B ook le t. UntQ June 9 tb address T h e C om - m ou dan t, B o x 4 S 1 - D , Staunton , v a . A fte r J u n e 9 tb , T erra A lta . W - Va.

^ - 4 1 F o r B oyd . In th e heartO d i n p L o y f l l S O C i C o f PODnsylvanla Hills npuT W U llam sDort. P a . A d cxcepttonal < ^ p w ith an ? S S p « o { m u l o - S l B 5 . 4 th M a m n . C cU fg etra in ed cou iS ellors . E a ch b o y rece ives iD d lv ld iw l a tten tion o t th e d irector. L im ited enrollm ent. E v e ry oam p M t lv lty . PA., W lU lam ep ort 429 M u lb erry St. L . E . KlXPPEIl.

S a n d s t o n e C a m piG r e e n L ake, WlseoDSln. 6 bra. from C b tcogo . i H t b season. A ll sp orts. D an cin g , riding , ^drain ) atica, arts. G irls 8 t o 24. In th ree divisions. lE s t h c r C ochrano D u n b am , 418 N , 30th S t,, Om aha,

N cbr . C h ica go Ot&ce, 1204 S teven s B uild ing.

CAM P OWAISSAl ln d la n L ake. A d iroad acks. (F o r G irls) W ater, iM o u n ta ln s a n d W o o d L and- A J Isd otw . W rite to mMiss Sallic B . Wilioii. Box H . Notioruil Cathedral |£cftoof, W ash ington . D . C.

C A M P A N T H O N Y W A Y N EW e l c o m e L a k e , P ik e C o . , P a .

In th e m ts , 12 0 m iles fra in N . Y . A q u a tic and a th le tic sports, h orseba ck rid ing and w ood cra ft btendeil 111 w oll-rou h dod schedu le, , . _ _

M a jo r E . M . F is h , H a w o r t h , N . J .

O L D E M I L L E L O D G EA H ig h Graxle C a m p lo r J un ior B o y s O uly-

In Chester CeonW. Pennt.S6 mlleB from PrtnadclphI*.

B o o k le t g la d ly m ailed u p on request.D r R . K . E ld r id g p ,

Upper Dxrby Dr., Ph51*,,P8.

~ 1 1 r t D L * _ W ood la n d , N e w Y ork .L a m p VV a l e e K O D I D Y o u n g e r b o y s exclusively. T w en ty -first season. M a k e y o u r b o y happy, strong, through an o u t -o f-d o o r Ufo. m cluding r S t h ik ing^ u a turc-lore . m auual u a ln ln g , sw im - m f S ' and £ ll eporta. M »tu re d S u p e rg s lo n and mcHlern san ita tion . BTOklet. M n . H . R N n w Jb b b e y , Jcraey C ity , L in co ln H ig h bcnooi-

“ GLENBROOKE” L‘ o‘¥oy,S p o r e s d ir e c t e d b y H a r p ' K lp t e . H ie fa m o u s xifiyvKirtttn n tiii«te . Iliustraied Booklet.H , R . 5*8 PATkvlew A v e ., D etro it, M lcii.

C A M P H I L L T O PF o r b o y s u nder 15. I n the hills o t C on n ecticu t. A ll ca m p activ ities. R eep on - slblUty and In itiative d eveloped . E xpcrl-

. _ en ced councillors. E x p e rt supervision. E x ce lle jii food . R ea son a b le rates. B ook le t, M ARY L . STORY, D irector, 156 W - I7 0 tb 8 t „ N , ^ .

BOB-WHITE B o y s ' C am p, A g es 6 -1 5 1 1 th Season

A shland, M a ss .. 5 hou rs from N ew Y o r k C ity . L o n g horseback ,rides; m ou n ta in trips : a ll u p on s. B « t r o o d a n d caro. illu stra ted b o o k - lot, R a lp h H ill. 640 W , 123rd St,, N e w Y o r k . M rs. S. B . H a y os, 6 S tedm an St., B rook lin e , M ass.

C A M P W O N P O S E TB a n ta m L ake. C o n n e c t ic u t

T h e cam n fo r y o u n g b o y s In ll ie Bai'Kshlrra. 100 m Ues from N e w Y o r k C ity . E leva tion 10 00 feet.

H 'rue/op Camvfiooks.R O B E R T D . T I N D A L ^

31 E a s t 7 1 s t S t r e e t N E W Y O R K

C A M P W IN N E C O O K F O R B O Y SL a k e W in n c c o o k . U n it y , M n l o c

2Srd Season. O u r cam nora W co m e expert m era, riders and m arksm en. T h e k in d o f a sum m er n b o v m o st en loys . Illustrated b ook let.H e r b e r t L . R a n d , IH cm c n w a y R o o d , Salem , M ass.

KYLE CAMP, Catskills•R«t 1910. P arad ise fur b o y s 0 to W . .M o d e l bungalow s— n o tents. 41 bm ldlnga. G o o d bath in g S addle horsed and pon ies. M ov ie s . B oy s heaitU e n d d iversion w ell e a r r f tor. 1 h a ve aupe> vised b o y s 42 years. D r. P aul K y le , Ky c S ch o o l lor B oys, Box B , lr « ln g t o n -o n -H u d s o n . N ew Y o rk .

QUINNEH TUKU nuaoal a dvantages. M o d e ra te expense. N o extras. C am pers r id e horses o r pon ies, e n jo y m o to r trips to lakes and m ountains, learn sw im m ing. G am p Urn, w ater sp oris , athletles. N a tu re h lkre, I i ^ a u p iw - wowB. B o o k le t . H ow a rd A . N . B rlgga, W ltau , N ortbfle ld , M ass.

K a m p K il l K areA real b o y s ' su m m er o f fu n on L ak e Cham plolD , JolIowlQg In d ian trails, ca m pin g 'neath th e stars, learn ins th e lore o f th e w o o d s . A ll Sports ami games*—m o to r b o a t trips, a th le tic flem s, wireless d iv in g - C ongen ia l chum s, responsible sudW vision . D e lic iou s food . Screened bxuiga- lo\^ . Separate tu tor in g cam p. I 9 lh scaaon. W rite lo r ca ta log . ^ . . . .iu lp h F. Perry, Direetor, B o» B, M orriilow n. N. J.

CAMP PENN4RE4LCAMP FOR REAL BOYS V a leou r Is lan d , N . Y ..

L ak e C lia m p la in 19th season. J r . 8 -1 2 ; S r. 1 2 -1 8 . 900 A cres— 2 m iles L a k e S hore . ,Y o 5»tlp n a I g u id an ce underS .p frv W o 'S ’ o f c h S i . K .“ t # 1% A ll B oorts ,.F in e B a n d . E ngineering, C o m p C raft. B ook let.i ano. J!<ngmwiuK. '.✓ump M>,V a n tlAMPEN, Prirtcipai. W ood la w n J un ior H lg b S cb oo l, S chen ectady , N . Y -

T h e D U N C A N C a m p F o r B O Y B u i l d i n g

R e a l Cam ping— lu d lv ld u a l T rain ing .C has. H . G rant, 29 L e la n d A ve., N e w R och e lle , N -Y .

T > . . O ccu p ies an Island In theO O O L n D S V K en n eb ec near B e th , M e. C lubhouse, dinlng-hnll, cab ins. Sw im m ing, tennis, canoes, m o to r b oats, horses. G rou p com netltlOEA theatricals ra d io . E xperien ced coun cilors . 1 2 ih season 'W rite fo r booltlet. A . R . IVebster, 1922 C ypress S t., C lnelnnatl, O.


44

I t I s a M a r k o f D i s t i n c t i o n t o A d v e r t i s e i n H a r p e r ’ s B a z a t B ^ o * "

Boys’ Camps

ulver: SUMMERSCHOOLS

(O ft L a k e M a x i n k u e k a ^

A ll the C u lver Suoim or Schools ore planned fo r education— for a d v e n tu re —under th e careful supervision o f experienced Instructors. For b o /s 14-20 . there are s e sm so - ehlp. borseo&GShlp— taught iQ N a va l and C avalry Schools. F or y ou h ?er boys , 10-14 , the o u td o o r life and ^ ood lore o f th e W o o d cra ft Cam p, S eod for cata log o f sch oo l that Interests y o u m ost. Address

The S eeretaiv 's Aide. Culver, IndJen.i

C A M P A L O H A for BOYSO n S q u a m L a k e , lio ld o r n e i is , N e w H a m p s h ir e 22 n d s ?ason. S ituated on L ab s S hore lo P in e G rov e Id W h ite M oun ta in R<filon. C on d u cted fn c o d ]u lc - l io n w ith C A M P A L O H A S U M M E R S C H O O L . F o r loforiDatioD address aoy o f th e directors.

D r . E . .A. K im b a f l . S c . P a u l ’ s S e h o o t . C o n c o r d , N . H .

L - F . W heCstOQC, S t . P a u l ’ s S c h o o l . C o n c o r d . N . H .

D r . H e n r y G ilm a n , S t a te C o l le g e , A m e s , I o w a E d m u n d W . O g d e n , 84 S t a te S t« . B o s t o n . M a ss .

CAMP FAIRWOODT o rch L a k e near Charlevoix , M ich . A ll rorm s o f o u td oor recreation Including rid ing carefu lly supervised G rou p a ctiv ities b y age. XTnaurpossed tabic, R esldeu i phyaloion. Address

M r . a n p M r s . F , M . E d e b .O bio M ilitary Inst,, C ollege HIU,

C incinoatl. O hio

C A M P M IS H IK E “ T h e Turtle^In th e heart o f th e N o r th W ood s, M lsh ike, V jlas C o ., WlB, D e flh lle program o f forestry under tiaJnofl foresters. E v ery d a y an odven tu ro . 1700 acres. F ou r m iles lake shore. W rite fo r b ook let. W*. E . S ancet« o :«. D irector . R o o m G03, 18 E . 4 is t Street, N ew Y o rk C ity .

CAMP TOSEBO—14th YearO n P orta ge Lake, n ear M an istee. M ic h . A U N IQ U E ca m p fo r Y O U N G B O Y S . F eatures that ca n n ot be d u ptica iod elsew here. B ook le t. AO dresi N o b l e UiLU T o d d Sem inary fo r B o y s . W o o d sto ck , HI.

B o x D ,

O n L a k e C h a m p l a i nS T . A N N ’S C A M P (fo r B oys)

C on d u cted b y th e M arlac Brothers,R a t e $185 N o E x tra s

S t. A nn ’s A cad em y. 1.53 E . 70lh S t.. N e w Y o r k C ity

T H E T O M E C A M PF o r b o y s IG years a n d under t o C years. 190 acres l2 -fo o m lodge. In d oor sleeping q uarters or tents. E xperienced councillors. iT a lu e il N urse. B est a th letic e o u lp m en i. Sw im m ing, hshlng. g o lf rlflo range, cruising, rad io, m usic, tu torin g , M u r r a y P e a r o p y B r u s h . P h .D ., M n s , I . ’ I ', B a c l z y D irectors. A ddress T o m e S chool. P o r t D e p o s i t M d ,

C A M P M A R A N A C O O KF or hoys. 7 to 17. S ixteenth season. E xcelleu t table. S trong ca m p cou n cil o f m a tu re a n d experienced men. O ne o l th e best equ ip ped ca m ps lo Am erica. C arefu lly planned da lly program m e. C a n oe and m ou n ta in tr ip s lo r all. B o o k le t , W il l i A il H . M o r g a n , D irector. R eadfie ld , M ain e.

Co-ed. Camps

T h e BANCROFT CAM P f o rB a ck w ard C h ild ren

O ft t k a M a i n e C o a s t n e a r R o c k l a n d

L ife In th e open w ith Sw im m ing. C anoeing. M o to r B oating . D eep -S ea F ish ing and

other W a te r Sports.H orseback R id in g and M otorin g .

T en n is and o th er Sporta,C areful supervision o f all ca m p activities,

fnrllvldual a tten tion o n the part o f trained d irectors, experienced teachers a n d nurses, to the pariicuJor n eeds o f each child.

F o r U l u s t r a t e d B o o k l e t a d d r .

E. A. Fsrringlen, M .D . Address, Bos B

Jenzia Coulson Coole,? Haddonlield, N. J.

RO SE H A V E N C A M P(S ix th S e a so n )

D irected P lay .H ealth and H appiness.

C b lld reo 4 t o 10.17 A cres o f P la ygrou n ds. 8 m iles from N , Y C P b o n e D u m o n t 177, T en a fly . N e w Jersey,

C A M P F E N I M O R E C A L L S B o y s a n d G ir ls 6 t o 12

C oo {> e rs to w n , N . Y .S e n d f o r P ic tu re B o o k to

M r s . C . A . B ra id e r 2 1 2 M o n t c la ir A v ., N e w a r k N .J .

W HERE SH A LL SHE LIVE?T ^ O U R daughter, perhaps, is planning a course in

New York for next winter. There are many excellent professional schools for -her to choose from, but nine-tenths o f them offer no dormitory facilities whatever. She is too young to live alone. You do not want her to stay with friends. Where shall she live?

Send her to one o f the Student Residences listed in Harper’s Bazar. These we have known and visited for years and we recommend them most highly as ideal in every way for the girl student who is away from her own home. For further information write to

H A R P E R ’S B A ZA R SCHOOL D E P A R T M E N T 1 19 W est 40th Street New York City

Chaperonage Homes

Sl?rs. Sostocirs KfSittmcciB siablished J p t6)

far oul-of-town Girls studying in N esu York. Beautifully located. Convenient to Colleges, Schools, Musetims, Theatres and Opera. Spacious living rooms and bedrooms. Excelleti cuisine and service. French i f desired.

Laoding Residence f o r G irl Sludtnts in N ew Y ork C ity.

344^346 W . 84th Street

“ A Home aw ay from Home”Girls have freedom with assurance of protection. Elective choperonage. Intermewby appointment. Tel.Endicotty6s 3 .

Address M rs. H m ry Harrison Boswell

Chaperonage Homes

TEASDALE RESIDENCE3 2 6 W u t 8 6 t h S t R f v e r s l d a D r f v .

T « l . E n d i c o t t 7 8 5 8 F o p G I pI S t u d o n t a a n d Y o u n g W o m o n

w n o co m e 10 N e w Y o r k t o pu rsue courses o f s tu d y a n d fo r a socia l se-ason

F r e n c h T u t o r i n g_ C h a p e ro n a g e B o o k l e t

FRENCH HOME SCHOOLP lanned exclusively fo r glrla pu rsu log special stud ies Id N e w Y o r k . E x cep tion a l Q poortuni- tlee f o r F rench.M I S S M A C I N T Y R E o r M L L E . T A L G U E N

9 2 0 W . lO T t h S t . . N e w Y o r k C i t y R i v e r s i d e D r iv e

New York—Girls

(Pal smere M R S . M E R R I L L ’S SC H O O L

fo r G IR L S

R eopens for the T w entieth Y e a r

T uesd ay , October 6th, 19 25

Add ress

M RS. M ERRILLORIENTA POINT M AMARONECK, N . Y .

/iiiiss aselben's iRestocnceA o h a r m i n g h e m e f o p y o u r d a u g h t e r

w h i l e s t u d y i n g In N e w Y o r k 9 2 1 W e s t 8 0 t h S t r o e t a t

R i v e r s i d e D r iv e T a l , E n d i e e t t 0 0 4 6

New York—Girls

SCOVILLE SCHOOLF or Girls

1 00 6 F i f t k A v e n u e t N e w Y g r k C i t y F a c i n g C a n t r a l P a r k a n d t h e

M u s e u m o f A r t

C o m p l e t e A c a d e m i c C o l l e B e P r e ^ p a r a t o r y ar\d A d v a n c e d S t u d i e a

R e s id e n t a n d D ay P u p ilsH o m e a n d s c h o o l l i fe i n a c o n g e n ia l a n d s t im u la t in g e n v ir o n m e n t . U n u su a l a d v a n ta g e s in M u s ic a n d D r a m a t ic A r t . F o r ca ta lo g u e , a d d re ss

M i s s R o s a B . C h is m a n , F r in d ^ a l

ScuhhetrDay and Boarding School for Young W om en

N e w Kori^ a d v o n la g es (A ) POST G b a d o a t b C ounsE S : 1 . S o c r o ta r la l

fo r h igh sch oo l a n d co llog e graduates. 2 . D o m e s t i c S c i e n c e w ith special reference t o oHI- cie n t and econom ica l h om e m auagem ent. 3. S o c ia l W e lfa r e a n d C o m m u n i t y S e rv ice w ith a ctua l fie ld w o rk under supervision. (B> H ig h S c r o o l , C ollege P rep , and general. (C ) MUSIC: v o ic e u od a ll iDstrumcnta. (D ) ATHLETICS, STUDENT OBOANIZATIONS, SOCIAL A f i 'i v m E s : sw im m ing, boracbuck riding , in ter- claos a n d loterseb ou l gam ee.

A d drees M JSS H . B. SC U D D £R 2 4 4 W . 7 2 n d S tre e t___________N ew V erfc C i t y

Cathedral School of Saint MaryG ardcQ C ity , L o n g Ifilaod, N e w Y o rk

B o x " B " M ir ia m A . B t t e l , P rincipa l

T h e C O M M O N W E A L THS C H O O L

O f H om e M a k in g a n d C o m m u n ity Subiects. R eg u lar course, on e year . A lso part-tim e courses B o x n , 136 E , 5 6 lh SC., N e w Y o r k C ity ,

Tutoring

P R I V A T E T U T O RE le m e n ta jr^ a n d C q llg te S e p a r a t o r y Branches—

. f o d c m a n d ClaBSloal Languages. E n d orsed b y lead in g sch oo ls o f th e city .

M r s . H . D . R o b e r t s 6 2 W e s t 8 4 t h S t r e e tS c h u y l e r 3 8 2 2 N e w Y o r k C i t y

S - F A IT H S SCH(3DLv 4 C o u n t r y ' S c h o o l f o r G i r l s

7/ie KNOX School. for GirlsC o l l e g e P r e p a r a t o Q ’ , H o m o S c l e n c o . M u s ic .

J / o c a t i o n a l G u i d a n c e . A t h l e t i c s .Excellent advanlages at M oderate cost.

H e v , C h a s . h . L , F o r d , Saratoga , N . Y ,

C o llcgo P re p a r a to o ’- A d v a n ce d A ca d e m ic C ourses V a r lM O u td o o r L ife . JlltiMraled B ookU is and Catalog. M b s . R u s s e l l HpuQfiTON B o k B CoopersC ow n, N . Y .

7 h FINCH schoolA Boarding and Day School for Girls,

emphasiaing post-graduate work61 East 77th Street, New York City

G A R D N E R S C H O O L1 1 E a st 5 l e t S treet, N e w Y o r k C ity

A thorough sch oo l w ith <!elightful h o m e life, C ollege prepa ra tory , a ca dooilc , Bocretarlal, e lective coureea. M u sic . O u td oor sp orts. 8Stb year.

SEMPLE SCHcPLB oard in g a u d D a y P upils. C o lle g e P rep aratory . P o st G raduate, F in ish ing courses. Languages, A rt, M anic, D ra m a tic A rt, O u td oor R ccrca lioL .

M r s . T . D a r r ln g t o n S e m p le . P r in c ip a l 2 4 1 -5 C e n t r a l P a r k W e s t , B o x B . N e w Y o r k C ity

N ew York Collegiate InstituteM iss S ch ooom a k er ’s S ch oo l fo r G irls. C ollege

P reparatory , H ig h S ch oo l. Junior. P rim ary. T h orou g h supervis ion o f w o rk b y th e P rincipa l. M em b ersh ip iu th e U o lv erslty o f tb e S ta te o f N o w Y o rk . 8 45 W e s t E n d A v o . (70Ui S t.) N e w Y o rk .

^M anorN on -S eetorlan C o u n try B oard in g S ch oo l. AH

’ G rades a n d C ourses J u n ior C ollege a n d M u sic . E U C E N B H . L E H M A N , D ir e c t o r

T a r r y t o w n -o n -H u d s o n , N e w Y o r k , B o x 102

P U T N A M H A L LA g es 13 t o 20 . P repares fo r a ll colleges. 23 yrs. o f h igh och oloatlc standards. Specia l on e -y ea r lo - tensive cou rse . R e g u la r u ud cu ltura l ccureos. 5-acTO oom Dus, S uperv ised sp o ru , riding . Sleeping porches. H o m e a tm osph ere . C atalog .E L L E N C L I Z B E B A R T L E T T , A .B ., P rlo ,,

B o X « 0 3 , p o u g h k e e p s I e , n . V.

W A L L C O U R TM iss G o ld sm ith 's S ch o o l fo r G irls. 18 Aores. lo heart o f F inger L a k e R eg io n . C olloge P rep aratory . G eneral a n d S pecia l C ourses, Including sccrotarlal w ork . D ra m atics . M u s ic , Supervised athletics. C a ta log . A ddress P rincipa l. W a lleou rt i^chool, B o x B , A u iora -oO 'C ay u g a , N . Y .

THE BROWNSON SCHOOLC a th o lie B oa rd in g a n d D a y S ch o o l fo r Girls. C ollege P rep aratory a n d F ln lsb io g Courses. Specia l d o s se s in F ren ch a n d F rench conversation .

M r s . A t w o o d V io lo t t 3 2 -2 4 E a se 9 1 st S t r e e t . N e w Y o r k iAyuntamiento de Madrid

45

th , S o u t h . W e s t - t h e B e s t S c h o o l s A r e in H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r

New Y ork -G ir ls

HiimniniiEii

B R I A R C L I F F ]

[lira;!:!

MRS. DOW 'S SCHOOL, BRIARCLIFF MANOR, NEW YORK

A S C H O O L O F L O Y A L T R A D I T I O N S W I T H M O D E R N S P I R I lMrs. EDITH C O O PE R H A R T M A N , B, S.— Prindpal

T H E B R I A R C L I F F F E A T U R E S

O u td oor life w itli supervised athletics. C o lleg e Preparation. Junior S ch ool. H om e Efiiciency and Postgraduate courses. M u sic, A r t and languages, w ith TJew Y o r h advantages. N e w m odel swim m ing pool.

M u sic Departmexxt Ossip Gabrilowitsch, Artistic Adviser

Jan Sickesz. Director

A r t D epartm ent Charles W. Hawthorne, N.A., Director

T H E B R I A R C L I F F ID E A L

A girl at hom e in th e w orld o f nature, art and science, w ith clear vision, breadth of thought, and grace o f manner, equipped to m eet life ’ s dem ands, w hether in hom e making, in social service or in the w orld o f affairs.

M A R Y M O U N TS C H O O L F O R G I R L S

C O L L E G E F O R W O M E NL lisrtere il b y th e R eg en ts o t th e U n lvcralty o l t o e p i l l o o t N ew Y ork . Perla B rsn ch . W rite lor fcaialugue tq T h e R e v eren d M oth er . T a r r y t o w n - o n - H u d » o o N e w Y o r k

C c l s t l GM is s M a s o n ’s S c h o o l

f o r G i r l sB ox 942, Tarrytown-on-H udeon.

Foreign New York—Boys

N O B L E S C H O O LF o r G i r l s f r o m G t o 14

K A T H L E E N N O B L E J E R O M E W h i t e P la in s , N e w Y o r k

' d o n g a n h a l lI A C o g n iry 8 chooI. ov erlook in g N e w Y o r k n a r b o r . I C ollege P rcp ataU on . G eneral C ourse, A rt, M usic. I F ields fo r variety o l fiborts. R id ing.

S u u A BARBER T u h k b a c h , A ,B „ F r in c iM l B o x H , D o n g a n Hllla, S ta ten Island, N . Y .

® ^ t n i n qS c h o o l f o r © i r i s

L Upper a n d L ow er S-^haols. C lara 'C . F u llar , P r in - le lp a l . Boa 4B, O u in in g -o n -H u d s e n , N ew Y ork .

D R E W S E M I N A R YI T b o C a tioe l S ch o o l lo r G lrle on beautifu l L ak e iG len e ld a . Sm all cloasce. G eneral a n d Special I courses. (S eoarate bu ild ing fo r J un ior S chool,) I A thletics. 5$th year. F or ca ta lo s . A ddress I D r . C l a r e n c e M cC l e l l a n d , President,I B ox 602 C arm ol, N . Y .

C ollegio G a zzo loA m erican S ohool fo r G irls n e w 'Verona.

Ita ly in sdxty a cre w aUod v illa o t C o n t « t o Ot N og oro le M cch a ii. A m erican fa cu lty . P rcjja - ratfon fo r co llege en iranee exjim inailonfl. ClQSses con d u cted In Bngllah: Italian anti F rench com p u lsory . M u ^ c . d a n c li« , r id l^ , a ll o u td o o r a porls, excursions. t/Xtenslve soc ia l opportunities. E lectr ic ity . C en tra l b e a t in g M o d e rn p lum bing . W rite fo r cata logue ^ 9 0 9 — 15th Street, N .^ V .. W ash ington , D . C ,

“ BIRKLANDS } E n g l a n d<20 m iles fr o m L on don )

A nret-clasa F in ish ing S ch oo l fo r G irls. T e m s * llUistrated prosp ectu s o n a pp lica tion t o t b c P rin cipal.

L E S H I R O N D E L L E SF irst cbLss fin ishing sch oo l fo r girls. , Specially oonstruoted house , beau tifu lly s f t u M ^ . E v w y m od ern com fort . A m erica n cou rw .FrlnclpaU . M ad e m o ih e llb M io n , M ie s DANxtLS.

C h a m p e l , G e n e v a , S w itz e r la n d .

Foreign

DOL i

F or B O Y SLycee Jaccard

L a u sa n n e (S w itzerla n d )P re p a ra t io n f o r A m e r ica n C o l le g e a n d U n iv e rs ity . E x a m in a t io n s . B u s in e ss C ou rse . L an g u a g es . S u m m e r C o u r se . B e » t ,q u ip t> ed • e h o o lin th e Q o u n try. O rg a n iz e d A th le t ic s .

W r iteMari us Ja c c a r d

s p e n d a y e a r in M ile . M a rg u e r ite C le m e n t 'sN E W T R A V E L L I N G S C H O O I -Ju ly t o A p ril. VeraaiUes. t h e R lv lc r ^ Paris. H ighest roferoucos. L im ited to fo u r clrla. L ists opeitod J u ly , 1925, to J u ly , 1927. A ddress caro o f D row n B ro s .. 59 W a ll S t., N . Y . C . A fte r A p ril 18. Versailles, 4 Im passe Jouvencai.

/h(2 STORM KING SchoolTbm«rl» T>« STONC SCHOOL - £4(akMMte4 1S«T

s o m iles fr o m W o o Y ork. S mUes fr o m ll'es ! P oin f

A P r o g r e s s iv e B o a r d i n g S c h o o l f o r B o y s

W h ich fosters in encli b o y h is Indlvlciuallty. up bu ild s h im ph ysica lly a n d locreases hla m ental efficiency.

P reparation tor C ollege o r B usiness Lite. R e c e n t gr.aduates n ow lu sixteen leading

colleges.A com p eten t teacher lo r ev ery e ig h t boys .

Separate L ow er S ch o o l to r b o y s Irom 9 to 1 2 - A t lra c t lv e o u td o o r life .

A ll sp orts under supervision .

F or axtaloo and book o f rteuie. address

A L V A N E . D U E R R . H e a d m a s t e r . C o r n w a l l -o n - H u d s o n N e w Y o r k

New York—Boys

S t John's S c h o o lPrepares B e y s fo r C o U ^ o a n d Business. Small c la ® c i. M ilitary tra ln lr^ . A th letics, Separate sch oo l fo r b o y s undiu’ 13.

WILLIAM A d d is o n R a n n e t , A .M ., P rtn .

R R P T O N SCHGOLthz Fzauirzmznis o f thz '^ur>6 toy

F o r b o y s R t o 14. English TjDiverslty M asters. P repares fo r b est co lleg e prep schools,

V . W i l l o u g b y B a r r e t t , H e a d M a s t e r B p x B , T a r r y t o w n , N e w Y o r k

New York Military AcademyA S C H O O L O F D I S T I N C T I O N

noB»w»t.t. on HUDSON BBICAIJimaBKBaAl.Mn.roNF N rW YoiK DaVIB, D. S. M .. SUVBBlMTHNDeNT

BERKELEY.lRVING* PJSfS;loc;HB:rPrepnTS'"tor®c'Su4 e “ Ibr b u S ' ‘ ‘?^m,nu"g p o o l Eym nasium b u ild in g ; roo t P lh y K fO u n d ^ ll on premlsea. O u tin g classes. I llu stra ted C atalogue.

W e st 83rd S t.. N e w Y o r k C ity.

New York—Co-ed.

New York - Boys

CASCADILLAA S ch oo l fo r Boy.4, spccluhalnq lego prcnartttory years. C ertifica te privileges. A th letics m clu d in p crew . W r ite fo r cata log. C A S C A D IL L A S C H O O L . B o x 126, I t h a c a , N .Y .

M A N L I U So • . I L ) c L _ I C ollege preparatory , oaint Jonn S acnooi M llH ary. T h orou gh ly eciulppeil. BubIupss course. W e ll ordered a to le t-los. J un ior S ch oo l to r b o y s 9-14. Cai.nlog. O cn . W ro . V e rb cck , Pres., B o x 124, M anlius, N . Y -

P F O R BO YS Dr. Frederick L* Gamage, HesdmasUr Pawling New York

W OODLAND SCHOOLB ovs 8 W 18. In CatsklllB, 1500 1C. elevation. Idea l for developing strong, manly boys, propitfIng tor coUeco or llie . Skiing, snow-ahocing, skating.

A t h l e t i c s , M o d e r n h u l l d l n f t s , 3 1 5 a c r e s . E r w i n S . S p i n k , A . B . , H e a d m a s t e r , P b e e n I d a , N . Y .

TJb w Y o b k , T a r r y to wn-on-Hudson,I • C L 1 / - D -a... 25 roilea from N ew Y o rk . IrVinfi oCilOOl tor Doys in th e bcautltu l. h istoric ■ T rv ln g" coun try . 88t o year- 33 years undCT presen t H eadm aster. E x ten sive grotinda. a n d com p lete etiulpraent. P r e p n r « lo r a ll collegM and tech n ica l schools . V ?)P o o l, G ym nasium . R e v . J . M . FORMa n . L . H . D .

I H aodm aater. B o x 913.

Happy Hours KindergartenF o r childroQ fro m 3 t o 6 y ea rs o f age- A fternoon p laygrou p s under sp ecia l super v is ion fo r children 8 t o 10 . B o o k le t o n request. M rs . M . C . W h y to*

345 W e st SOtli Street, N e w Y o r k C ity-

S T A R K E Y S E M IN A R YC o-educailonaJ. E n d ow ed - Ages, 12 and upward. N e w Y o r k R egents Standards. P repares for c o lleg e o r business. A d v a n ce d w o rk In A r t and M u sic , O n Senoca L ak e . A ih lc ilcs . AdilreBS

M a r t y n S u m m e r b c I I , P h . T>.. P re s .,B o x 3 2 , L a k e m o n t , N . Y .

J O Y f o r t h o K I O D I E S

S T O N E H E N G E4 M o th e r S ch oo l fo r you n g er C hildren . K indergarten up to fifth srad e . O nen a ll t h e y w r . Sum m er p la y sch oo l June U t . b o x 319, Brewater. N e w Y ork .

New Jersey—Boys

_ ijCifrSAKY INSTmJXE,JT h orou g h preparation tor co llege o r businesa.

E fflc len l fa cu lty , sm all classes. Individual attention . B o y s ta u g h t h ow t o s tu d y . Supervised ntn- letlcs . 4 l8 ty e a p . C atalogue. C o i .T . D .L A h b O h . D ra w er 0 3 0 , B o rd en tow n , N . J.


46

W r i t e H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r f o r I n f o r m a t i o n A b o u t SchoolsH

ojfe^HUN SCH OOL OF P R I N C E T O N

Prepares/ « r

PriacetenHsivstd

Vel«

_ FonwrlvT ofl r n o e c lo D B it o r i A s S e b o c l.Excellent K oe id A ot B c c o m m ^ osbcoe. SupsHer t7x>e of in* eUBccion for older bore DrepnrSns not 00I7 to pftae onttaneo ezsra* ioition but Co carry cc afM work tvith credit. 1

John G. Hun, Ph.D.,lCr7 Stocktoa S t. Prlneeten,N.J.

A School for Young BoysL o cs a i^ Id Som erset H ills o f N e w Jersey. Tre^ pares b o y s 8 to 14 ycara o f a go fo r C hurcli B oard ing s c h o o ls lb N e w E ng land , S lm plo h o m e life In co u n try fo r & few aolocted boys . A lso D a y D on art- m ent. R e v . Jam bs H . S. F a i r . F a r hQJs. N , J.

Pennsylvania—Boys

PEDDIE F o r the a ll-around educa tion o f tn&nly boys , A th letlo ^ o r t s , co -acro

.V . . . cam pus, Prep&rea fo r a lltoe b est colleges. M od era te rates. S is form s to - c lud lng t w o gram m ar grades. 60tli year.Roger W . Sweilend, Heidmasler, Box 45, nigliUloHra, N. J.

WENONAH M ILITARY ACADEMY12 m iles from PhlladelDbJa, C ollege entrauoe. Dusloeas and special courses. S p c d i l s ch o o l fo r Jutupps. H ortem ansh ip under in structor o l E du ita tlon . C ata log and V iew B o o k . M A J O R C - M . L O R E N C E . Supt. B o x 442. W en on n b . N , J.

^on School

New Jersey—Girls

ST. JOHN BAPTISTA C « U Q t j7 B o a r d in g S c h o o l w i t h M o d e r a t e R a te** U nder the ca re o f the Slstera o f 6 t. John B a p ile t (E p la ^ p w C h u rch ). C ollege P rep aratory .

A r ta u d G eneral Couraoe, F o rtia ta Jog address T h e Sister S uperior, R a U lo o (near M orristow n ), N .J .

K E N T PLA C E S C H O O L f o r G IR L SS r ^ r r . N e w J b b s e v . A n E n d o w e d S choolT h irtieth Y e a r . O n th e E s ta te o f C h a n cellor K en t m th e hUls o f N e w Jersey, tw en ty mUcs from N ew t o r s . C ollege P rep aratory . A cad e in lc. M u sic Art, .Athletics.

H a r r ie t L v r n b p H u n t , P rtacipal.

DW IGHT I5SC olU ga P rsp a ra tio n . S p ec ia l F ln ieh ln g C ou rses

A th le t ic s , G y m n a s iu m , T e n n is , R idingH rile fo r lUuslrated B ooklO^. CfUaioo on jeautst

M iss e . S . C R E IG H T O N . P H n., E n g le w o o ^ N . J .

SuTERiOR college preparation and general courses emphasizing A rt, M usic, D ram atic E x pression, H om e-m aking, C urrent H isto ry and Literature. D elightfully located in a college town near Philadelphia.

T h e school equipm ent is am ong the m ost beautiful and complete in the country. W ell- appointed living-rooms,' bedroom s w ith adjoin ing baths, thoroughlym odern classrooms. T h e new adm inistration building contains 6o-foot tiled swim m ing pool, auditorium w ith stage, and gym nasium with room for indoor tennis, basketball. H ealthful outdoor life in beautiful wooded countryside. R iding, canoeing.

W i 1 d c I i f f , the graduateschool, g ives a tw o-year coursein general cu ltural subjects.S e v e n G a b le s— well-balancedw ork and p la y fo r little girls6 -12 . 'When w riting, pleasespecify in w hich of the threeschools y o u are interested.M R . A N D M R S . H . M . C R I S T

Prind ols B o x 1 5 1 0 . S w a r t h m o r e , P a .

: PRINCETON SCHOOL

For Uirta Collcyv P.*«t>arit«r7pfnl, Snecial, Jijmor, z-year Gradual* a M. Dlidoer. A.M. B o « 2 . Princeton. N.J.

S T . M A R Y ’ S H A L LF o r glrl^. A ca d e m ic &od boqM tx&lQlnf definitely preparing fo r coUege, h on ic - m aklDg o r DU^neos.

MRS. JOHN FEABNUY.Priaclpal. Box4l8. fiuriinflon.N. J.

if “ A g:ood sch oo l fo r G ir ls ."

F g ll In form ation o n re-

!ollefeiaf-e IrS*' R . j . T h k v o b r o w r?sti + u+e -H a ck ettstow n , N . J.

Miss Sayward’s SchoolF « G irls- Subuife o t P h iladelph ia . C o n cg e ^ e p a x a w r y a n d S ecretaria l C ourees. M u sic D om esiJe Science. PbysJcal tra in ing, oawJoor roorta . b orseb a ck riding , awlm m inF. DeveJona

m in d a n d b o d y . T\’ r lte D e p t . B . M is s Ja n u t S a t w a a o , P rin cip a l. O verbrook , P a.

BISHOPTHORPE, For GirlsI n M ts . n e a r N e w Y o rk . G ra d u a tes entCT a l l _ e c n l0ca te eoUenes w ith ou t M oina, P ra ctica l cou rses: F ln lsh lng- U . s . A C o lie g c . N e w G y m a a o dE2P C a t a l o g . C ln u de N . W y an t,PrlD. B o x 248 . B eth lehem . P a

BEECHWOOD

O G O N T Z S C H O O LF O R G IR L S

O n th e s ^ i ^ t o f Ry<tol H ills. 2 5 m in u tes Irom i ^ d ' f o r ^ l J | ® ° - D epa rtm en t.M Ise A b b y Sutherland. P rin .. O gon tz S chool

KyiJal. M oQ tg om cry C o /, P a,

The Birmingham School for Girls

VIiss B e a r d ’s S c h o o l f o r G i r l s

A C o u n t r y S chool n e a r N e w Y o r k ! Or a n g e , N . J .C o l l e g e P r e p a r a t o r y . G e n e r a l C o u r s e s . O u t d o o r Sp o r t s

Pennsylvania—Co-ed

I794YEAR • lOOOfRLS P«niuuivqnia

I l N O E N H A LL illJ ^ l n . l h e for-fom#d *Car«tei» S p o l'o fA ttra cU v o H o m e L ife . G yinnaflium a n d P o o l

P r e p a r a t o r y , G e n e r a l C o u r a e s , H o m e E c o n o m ic s . A r t , M u s ic , S e c r e t a r ia l , P o a t G r a d u a t e . Separata J un ior S ch oo l, n iu s ira te d C a ta log = STEKGEt., D .D .B o x 12 2 LUItz, L a n ca ster C o ., P a.

H I G H L A N D t i A L LF o u n d e d 1567

C oU cge P rep aratory . G eneral Couraee.. . . , U n u e ^ l P rog ra m o f O u td oor L ife L L L E N C , K B A T L S , A .B . . H o l l id a y a b u r g , P a .

M O N T E S S O R IW Y C O M B E , P A ,

70 m iles from N e w Y o rk . 80 from P bfladelph ia . 140 acres,

CHILDREN THREE TO TWELVE TEARS D IR E C T I O N fo r last e leven y ea rs b y staff o f tb e M ontcasorl F irst B oa rd in g and D ay S ch oo l. S t r o n d . p e r m a n e n t o r d a a lz a - t lo n .R E S U L T S fo r each ch ild In C onduct. H ea lth and H app iness, O ur experience an Im portant fa c to r to th e tb o u g b t fu l parent. E Q U IP M E N T com p lete fo r gainea, o ccu p a tion s a n d A tb letlca . P o n y r id in g . B oa tin ik , S w im m in g . A p p ro v e d Sanitation R a t e $225. R tf e r e n « 9 Hsgulred. RenerpoHons Limiisd. ".Slcrif and Picturea of MoTuessori Camp" on T&quest.M jw . A n n a P A ia r R y a n , 4 2d a n d P in e Sta,

P hlladelpbla, Pa.

T E M P L EUNIVERSITY^

PHILADELPHIAl e » « *"rp*Df9Uon.bxenn«srtcfe«tfcH)2,L w 4 m af o - w fo» (hoK »)w «1ih toeam « * « fnmt CoJier. Teaeherr Coll«W: Schogb of RJiBMw

Dcftfimy, Chbopody, w S k i Hi|li arhool, Model E kntoarv S cK ^ , S u m M StKmL NuncT.SehMl. Domirorr and eUtlrtb: iedfidtt'Write for h te fualet, turlfii AMfK Jeired AJJrcee De;*. C

W Y O M I N G S E M I N A R YA co-edu catlon al sch oo l stro n g lo ch a rscto r bu lld- UJB. C ollege DrenaratloD. Business. Musac A rt C ratory a n d H om o E con om ics . P la n t SI 000 (XMI E n d ow m en t 8800.000. C atalog . .ouu.iiuu.

L . L - S P R A G U E . D .D ., L .H .D .. P res. K ind atO D , P a.

D A R T n T N O T O N F o u n d e d 1851 ^ A Vs. l a I l y y j I U i N F o r Y o u n g W o m e nDevelopea persenallty, vitality, efflcleacy. SUtv- acro estate. Persomjcl EnglncorlbB, Secretarl^ pomeaUc BelcQce, Pliyalcal Education. Cultural Arts and College Preparatory courses. All snorta. G y m n a a iU D ] , swimming pool. Catalog CnwsTiNBP.BYE.Pfla..Box622, West Cheater, Pa.

P E N N H A L LG irl’s ,S ohpol a n d J u n ior C ou a crva lory o l M usic. A ccred ited . In teu slve coUege preparation M a y eoeh y e a r sp en t a t O cean C ity , w ork uninterrupted. M I sp orts. R a te s 8900. t a la lo g a n d views.

S. M a q il l . a . M . , H eadm aster, B o x H Chacnbersburg, P a.

HARCUM SCHOOL FOR GIRLST h o ro u g h co llo e e preDaraclons. o r special stu d y . M u s ic . A rt. N e w B uU dlne lanre grou n d s, A th letics , riding . M rs E § H a r o ^ . B .L ^ H e a d o f ^ h o o l , M rs . L . M . W in is , B .P ., P rin cip a l, B o x B , B ryn M a w r, P a . ►

•Kieimciiiniruiiii

5 W ^ A /?7 '//A fO /?£ - P R E pI

fain"*''?,;r ‘;[: LxperrSS!

Gettysburg AcademyiA a c^ o o U o r 1 10 b o ys . M od ern , hom elike . Bcauu-S m “ “ T “ ountalDS. A ll a th letics arrdJ

dorm itory. [CT t<‘_^S550. 9Sth year . C a ta log , A d d r c i l H eadm aster, B o x A , G ettysbu rg , P a . *

S ib h T b o f P bO adelphla. S c h c ^ fo r prsCTlcal tra in in g o f y o u n g w om en. J im lo r C o lle g e D epartm enta . M usle , A r t H o m e E con om ies , K in d ergarten . N orm al G ym nastics e t a P ip e organ , gym n n slu ia . A d d ress a s a b o v s

FRanjojn^s ^ shauA T h o u s a n d B o y s P r e p a r e d f o r C o l le g e la P i b Y e a rs . C o m p lete M o d e m E quJpineot. All I hp orts. M o d e ra te R a tes . C a ta log o n reauosi i

E . M . H a b im a n , P h .D ., P rincipa l, 'B o x 408, L ancaster, P a,

KISKIMINETAS SCHOOL FOR BOYSP repares fo r co llege o r tech n ica l sch oo l. E xpert I la cu lty . P recep toria l syfltem tea ch es b o y h ow to I study, to recogn ize h is o w n abilities. AJJ ou td oor I sp orts. G ym uaslum . Sw im m ing poo l- A g ood J g a c e fo r y o u r b o y . A d drees D r . a . w . W a e o N J r i P re s id e n t B o x 870, S altsburg, P a . > i

NAZA,S£TH„HALLA h l s t o ^ S ch oo l w ith un-t(M late A dm ln latratlon i C ollege I ^ p a r a t o r y a n d B ualness C ourses. Junior tmS ?, G y m n ^ i ir a a n d P o o l. M o d e ra te R a tes Illu stra ted B o o k le t . R e v . a . D . T h a e e e r , D D H eadm aster. B o x 50. N atareU i, Pa!

C A R S O N L O N G I N S T I T U T E“ ountalne, 6 k :h o u r s fr o m N e w

ffb ” P lltsb u ig h . B o y s ta u gh t to labor, h o w to Uve. C ollege propara-

S e p ^ t e J u n ior S ch oo l. M ilita ry training.T erm s 8400. C am p

a n d S um m er Session. J u n e 8 to S e p le m b e r 1 2 , 8165 , B o s 1 5 , N e w B lootoU eld , P a .

S i I S<4innl 'VVayne (M a in L in e o f P . R . R .) J l . LUKC b OCnoOl p ft. r h e b eau tifu l location , c s - ten sive u n d s , patronage, experienced Instruction, m ora l m a k e a n u nusual a ppea l lo uareotaand b oys . C ollege o r b usiness prenaratloo .

B ook le t.C b a e l e s H e k b v St b o u t , A .m ., H eadm aster.

C H E S T N U T HILLP x | p o » t l o n f o r t h e L e a d (a d U ftiv e ra lt ica ,A B oa roJ og S ch oo l fo r B o y s . AtbTetlc T ro m in s fo r n/m U nsurpassed. E leven

^ f l a d ^ ) h i a . C a ta log o n R equest.R . T . H t d s , M .A , C^nle), B o x B , C h estn u t HI) I P a

New England— Boys

W ILLIST O NA p r e p a b a t o r v s c h o o l f o r b o y s

^ S tu r d y N e w E n g la n d Id a a H A R e c o r d o r S o u n d E d u c a t io n a l A c h ie v e m e n t ,

The Rectory SchoolE p iscopa l sch oo l fo r b o ys , fl t o 13. E a ch baw receives sp ecia l a tten tion la " H o w t o s tu d v ’ • S uperv ised a th letics ; h om e core,

A p p iy R e v . F , H . B igelow , P om fret, C o o n .

DeWili-CIintonA D o a r d in g a o d D a y S c h o o l

P r e p a r e s f o r C o l le g e a n d T e c h n i c a l S c h o o lJo h n B . H e iih e b d . C o tto n S t., N e -w t o n , M a s i .

Al len - Ch al mersA C o u n c r y S c h o o l f o r B o y s

M ilitary E fflo len cy . U p p er a n d L o w e r B cboo ll T h o m a s C h a lm e r s ,

447 W a lt h a m S t r e e t , N e w t o n , M asa .

S U F F I E L DA n en d ow ed sch oo l fo r hoys, rich In traditions m odern In m othods. T h e Individual Is stud ied to secure com p lete deve lop m en t through classroom atnletlcs, and sch oo l Ilfo. J u n ior S chool. B o o k le t B r o k e n G age, P h .D ., H eadm aster, 17 H ig h a v e e t . SuCBeld, Conneetiout.

M l f o r d Rosenbavm ScheolH ig h ly Individualised Inatruotlon. B o y s th orou g h ly prepared fo r ooUege b oard

6* ^ '" e t l b o e . E nroll a n y tim e. C a talog . A ddress L .W . G regory , Principal, M ilfo rd . C onm


47

I f i nD o u b t A b o u t a S c h o o l , A s k H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r

New England—Boys

A C A B S M YEst. 1833 "

F o r earnest b o y s m ilk eo llese ti'sion . P re p a re s f o r a l l c o lle g e s a n d te c h n ic a l s c h o o ls . H ig h s ta n d a rd s o f s c t o la t s h ip m a in ta in e d . A s c h o o l o f fa r - r e a c h m g p re s t ig e . E q u y m c n t a p p r o x im a te s a o n e m illio n d o l la r in v e s tm e n t . G ra d u a te c lu b s fn co lle g e s a n d r e p r e s e n ta t iv e c it ie s . T h e W o r c e r te r sp ir it , “ T o a ch ie v e th e h o n o r a b le ." C o m p le t e fa c i lit ie s f o r a ll a th le t ic s . R a t e s J i o o o . S e n d f o r i l lu s tra te d ca ta lo g .

A d d r e s s : T h e R e g i s t r a r . W o r c e s t e r , M a s s .

ROXBURYA S oe o ia l T y p e o t B oa rd ln a S etiool

S ound In stru c tio n b y th e T u to r ia l M e th o d A B SHEiuyy, H eadm aster, Cheshire, C onn ,

M^Teroan Y o u d A B o v sJ. la ihec a n d m oth e r 's care In their ow n horae. T horough preparation lo r T a lt , Itotcn k lss, e tc . Bummer C am p o n L o n g l^ a n d S o u ^ .

C C . M c T e r n a o . 106 C o lu m b ia B lv d . W a t e r b u r y , C o p n .

:Xch pieLD^ . ^ a a R L E E. SARCKA BOX 5 23 Litchfield, Conn.

M I L F O R DA college preparatory s ch o o l lo r b o y s o l 16 and

over. I 'o rm crly th e KOBcnbaum S ch o o l ., b m ^ i clofflefl and in d iv idu a l Instruction , M l n l m ^ tu ilon in clu d lcp room aiwl b o a rd lo r tn e cniiro Bcbool year. 52.0CK),Ba m u r l B , R o s k n b a u u , P rincipa l, M U ford, C on a .

RIDGEFIELDA s ch o o l in th e footb llla o f cbo B erk - sb ircs lim ited to fi fty b o y s . S ix lorm s, C olleue orop aratory . T w o hou rs froni N ew Y o r k . S p len d id noaltL record .

THEODO RE C . JESSur. H eftdm oster, R ldgeQ eld, C onn .

WESTMINSTER SCHOOLS IM S B U R Y , C O N N .

R A Y M O N D R . M c O R M O N D , H e a d m a s t e r

New England—Girls

rCHOATE-S C H O O L

A country school in a model town. For girls from 6 to l 8 years of age. Special emphasis on college preparation. Art, Music and Domestic Science. Careful selection of students combined with skillful teaching makes for a happy and rapid ôgress. Gymnastic work and Dancing, Basketball, Hockey, Tennis and Horseback Ria- ing under physical educators.

AUGUSTA CHOATE, V . , « r , A.B., A.M.P r i n c i p a l

UOOBe.conStieel Bifloklint, M «n .

New England—Girls

CMPHASi;flMC'COllECL

pftCPARATlON

jS^RINCniLD

MITCHELLA sch oo l tliat appoala to ttie y o u n g A m orlcan boy &Qd the th ou g h tfu l pa rea i- A lexa nder I I . MUchell, Princtpol. Box K , BUlerica, Mass.

JttacS lu ffie • S c h o o l

"iflo r ( B t r l s

ONL YEAR I TUrOWNC I COURSE U “nImassachusehs w

W i. . HERE a girl will have careful instruction, ample outdoor life and recreation, swim m ing and horseback riding.

HOUSECRAFT COURSE .IC onJuelei In u p era U J® ""

prael/ce Aoum) Mu . John M«cDuffiA

H O W A R D S E M I N A R Y43rd year . A fa m ou s o ld N e w E n g lan d c o ^ t r y M h o o l fo r giria. P roparatlon fo r a ll c o l ogffl- M r . and M rs. G co ra e W . E m erson , Principals, 26 H o w a rd Street, W e s t B ridgew ater, M assachu -

SOUTHFIELD POINT HALLF o r girls. O n L o n g le la n d S ound . In te r i^ d la ie , C o lla te P rep a ra iory . Secretarial, a n d G eneral Coureca. M u sic . H orseb ack riding. O u td oor m e aapoolal fea ture, C a ta log . Jessie C allam .Gray, B .A ., P rin clp a t 6 D a v e n p o rt D riv e , Stam ford , Conu.

THE BURNHAM SCHOOL fOR 61RLSF o u n d e d b y M a ry A . B urnham In 1877

O p p osite Sm ith C ollege Cam pus M is s HEbEN E . T h o m pso n . H eadm istress.

N orth a ro p w n , M assachuseits .

The SCHOOL QUESTIONT h e se S ch o o ls a r e k n o w n t o H a r p e r 's B a za r , b u t i f th e r e is a q u e s t io n in y o u r m in d le t us a n sw er i t f o r y o u . "W rite t o H a r p e r s B a za r , u p W e s t 40 t h S t ., N e w Y o r k -

WALNUT HILL SCHOOL3P H i g h l a n d S t r e e t , N a t i c k , M a s s .

A C ollege P rep aratory S ch o o l lo r O ltls. W “ R'S from B o s to n . 46 A cres. S kating P o n d . A th le tic F ie lds. S B uild ings. Gym nnaluni.

M I S S F L O R E N C E B I G E L O W , P r i n c i p a l .

New England— Girls Southern—Boys

! 5 J n y d e r

O ne h o u r fr o m N e w Y o r k . G irls from all parie o f cou n try . F ou r residences, ecbooL bouoo, gym iioslum . P repares fo r a ll colleges. Specia l courso in D Uv t lo o a n d D raiuatl<«. O u td oor life.H on sebock riding . G ym nasium .

C a talog .M a r g a r e t R . B r c n d l ln g e r ,

A .B . . V a s s a r — 'V id a H u n t F r a n c is , A .B . , S m it h , P r l o c lp a i s

N O R W A L K . C O N N .

u fttory and G eneral Cuoraes. Fall la d spring in the m ou n ta in s o f N o r th C arolina. V in ter in F lor ida . W rite fo r b o o k le t .

C l a r b n c e E . Sx y p e b , 93S F in e A r ts B u lld ii^ C btcago. lUlAOls

GLEN EDENF o r h lsh -s cb o o l girls

F i f t y iW m u /« * F rom F i f t h A VC ft « « (N * Y . )

_ a n d graduates. Superb efTiiionaentr’ exQuialte environm ent, charm ingly hom elike. S elect m em bership o n ly . R e g iila r and apecia l courses. A ddress fo r ca ta logu e a n d viewa- R es S e c ’ y , G LE N EDEN, S ta m fo r d . C on n .

KENDALL HALL for Girls

^ / ''W fi T ? prepares fo r leading unlversi- ' 4 • I V I p - ties : dep artm ent lo r you r^ er

b o y s : m odern eqiU pm eut;superior fa cu lty ; a ll a th letics; acres.H e a v y end ow m ent perm its low tu ition . O q S usquehanna R iv e r betw een P hiladelph ia and B alU m ore, C atalog . M u rra y P ea-

• * - b o d y B rush , P h .D ., P o r i D ep osit. M d ,

STAUNTON ACADEMYÔ ne o f t b e m o st dlatinfiuiehed sch oo ls in Am erica

— preparing fo r Universities, G o v e ro m e n t A cad em ics, Business. G ym nosluxn. sw im m ing pool, all athJetloe. C o m p lete p lant. C harges S700. C4tli year. C o l. T h o s . H . R ussell. B .B ., Pres,, B o x B . (K a b ic S ta tion ) S taunton , v a

Massanutten Academ yC ollege p rep a ra lory sch oo l fo r b o y s , C lasees a vers e 1 2 . M lh ta ry , modJJlcd fo r discip line a c d ph ysica l values. S henandoah v a lle y , near 'W ashington. G ym n a siu m , A ll a th letics, m usic. 3 7 th year . $000.

A d d r e e H eadm aster, B o x 35, W ood stock . Va,

F A IR H A V E NH o c S p r in fis , B a t h C o u a t y . V ir g in ia

E nglish T u to r ia l M e th o d . F acu lW com p osed enw roly o f Y a le . P rln ooton a n d O xford m en. S um m er S chool, W ilU am stow o, M a ss ., J u ly 15 to S ept. 16, S pecia l P rep aration lo r C ollege B oard E xam inations.R e a s e l la e r L e e , M .A . (P r in c e t o n ) H e a d m a s t e r

MountIda

SchoolY e a r B o o k o n

K e q u e s c

F o r G I R L S6 m i l e s f r o m B o s to n -A f l S tu d ie s e x c e p t E n -

fg l is l i e le c t iv eP rep aratory : Unlalilcg

Bcbool.A d v a n c e d E l e c t i v e

C ourses lo r h igh school graduates. C ollege C e ^ tificate. F u lly eaulpped.

P ia n o. V o ice , V lo llii. P ipe O rgan , w ith n o t e d m en.

D o m e stic Science. N ew G ym n asiu m w ith sw im m in g pool.

C ostu m e D esign and H o m e D ocoraD on . See- retarlfll Course.

E x cep tion a l opp ortu n ities, w ith a a c l« h t lu l h om e life.

2S24 S u m m it S tre e t N E W T O N , M A S S -

( T lb r i s l c b u r c bT h aV IR C m iA BOYS SCHOOL a n S ALT WATER

O n R a p p a h a n u ock estuary o f Cbes&> peake B o y . C ollege P rep aration . 65

b o v s 9 to 19 y ears. glOO.OOu b u lld li^ s . 95 acres. B o x B , C b r i s c c h u r ^ , M id d le s e x C o . , V a .

L a s e l l S e m i n a r yA sclioo l U iat d v velop s w ell-tra in ed, h ca it l iM resourceful w om an h ood .A r t C o l l is e P rep aratory a n d S ecretaria l c o u r se .

G U Y M . W IN S L O W , P r in c ip a l 130 W o o d la n i l R o a d A u b o r n d a le , M a ss .

Four Year Preparalory Course for Sm ith C ollege S ix M o n th e ' In ten sive R ev iew fo r H ig h 5 ^ o o l

G raduates B ogina In F ebru ary . A ll sports. M R S . V. N- LUCIA, S «r« /a ry . NORTHAMPTON, MASS,

THE MARY C. WHEELER SCHOOL4 N e w E n olan d T o w n a n d C o u n try S ch o o l fo r h ir ia Colfefie DfODaratory. general a n d poat-

ra du ato courses. A d v a n ce d A r t cloflses. M usic - ?o iIiS 7 i?s ld cu oe fo r g ir ls 1 0 t o 14 y ea rs o f age.

rRO'ViDEKCg, R h o d o Island.SJ'C(

zA C°Begefor Women in ‘BostonS e cr e ta r ia l S c ie n ce a n d T e a c h e r -

asriAn

Miss Farmer’s School of CookeryH o m e o f the B o s to n C ook in gT ra in ing In co o k e ry a n d hou seh o ld tech n iq u e tor hftm o a n d v o ca tio n . Shore a n d ^ x m onths courses. S en d fo r b o o k le t B , M Ib A lic e B r ^ e y . P rincipa l. 60 H untlu ffton A v e „ B o s to n , M aas.

H O U SE IN T H E PIN E S1 0 P in e S t . , N o r t o n , M a e s .

A S c h o o l f o r G ir ls , 3 0 m ile s f r o m B o s to n . C o lle g e p r o p a r a t o r y a n d g e n e ra l cou rse s . O u td o o r a c t iv it ie s . H o r s e b a c k r id in g e m p b a - « z e d . M is s G e r t r u d e B . C o r n i s h , P n n cL p a i.

T H E E L Y S C H O O LI N T H E C O U N T R Y

O n e H o u r f r o m iV eu i Y o r ft E ly C o u r t , G re e n w ich , C o n n e c t ic u t

tra in in g p r o g r a m s b a s e d u p o n fo u n d a t io n cJ g e n e ra l a ca d e m ic s tu d ie s . 2 y e a r s f o r C e r t ifica te , a y e a r s f o r D e g r e e . D o n m t o n e s .

D r . T . L.s w r e n c e D a v i s , D ea na? GarriaOD S treet, B os ton ^

C o l le g e o f P ra c t ic a l A r t s & L e t t e r s , B o s t o n U n iv .

s c h o o lD ip lo m a t o a ll colleges. S m a ll classes, e x p e rt fa cu lty . N e w $260,000 fire -p roo f eq u ip m en t. R .O .T .C . under U .S . w a r D e p t, C a ta log . C o l .M . n .E u d g ln a , B ox H , W a yn esboro , V a .

R L A C K S T O N EJ J M I L I T A K Y A C A D E M YC olle g e P rep a ra tory a n d Buatoeas A dm in istra tive C ourses, B e e t H o m e inQucD ces. M o d e m i i r ^ p r o o f E q u ip m en t. A ll Sports.

F o r to o l le i 'H oxo the B o y L i i e s ." address C o l . E , S . L lfto n , P r e s . , B o x M , B lo e k a io n e , V a .

IfeSW A V E L Y JrUF o r B o y s . O ne b o u r fr o m W a sh in gton . A n ontfauâstlc. w ork in g prepa ra tory s ch o o l w W ch b o y s lo v e a n d p character b u lla .

/m noslum . C a talog .

M A S S IE S C H O O LA oreD oratory s c b o o l fo r b o y s . F o r catoliM . address R . K ; M assle , Jr., M .A ., H eadm aster, Versailles, K en tu ck y .

New England—Co-ed.

Southern—Co-Ed.

T H E R O U T H P IN E S S C H O O LS a m a r k a n d . N . C - (N e a r P lo ch u rst a n d Southern P in os). H o m o a n d sch oo l fo r ch ild ren 0-14. G ra de sub jects, F ren ch . M u s ic . A flcrn o o a a d e v o te d to o u t -d o o r recreation . M o r e personal supervW on a m i cheerfu l sp ir it th a .. c a n b e fo u n d iu Jarge school.

^ T E N A C R E = iA C ountry School f o r Y oung G irlsF r o m T e n t o F o u r t e e n Y e a r s o f A g e

P R E P A R A T O R Y to Dana Hall.Fourteen miles from Boston. All

sports and athletics supervised andadapted to the age of the pupil Thefinest instruction, care and influence.

M ISS H ELEN TE M PLE COOKE Dana Hall. WeEeslev, Mass.

H o lm e w o o dm o d e m buildings. 370 a m onth covers ew ry expense. M r s . L . s . T e d b b t i s , N e w C a n a a n . C o u a e c tlc u t-

Southern—Girls

EAST GREENWICH ACADEMYCD -eduoatloual. F oundetl 1802, 7 hu lld lngs. IS Instructors. C ollege prepa ra tory , A endem ie, Buel- n cm M u sic . JuiUor ^ b o o l . G ym n a ^ u m A th le tic field . C hristian Ideals. T u it io n ISOO.

Rev. J . F R A N C IS C O O P E R . D .D . P r ln jlp s l O n N a rra oa n tett B ay , Eaat G raanw ioh , R. I.

S T . E L IZ A B E T H O F -T H E -R O S E SA M otK ep S ch oo l

F niacoual O o e n a ll year , C hildren 3 tb 12. O ne hôur from N o w Y o rk , U sual studies. O u tdoor SDorts. Sum m er Cam p. sp orio ^ g STODDARD, D lteotress,

B o x B , N o ro to n , Conn.

Virginia Interment Collegefo r GUIs a n d Y o u n g W o m e n , 4 3n d y ear . 27 sia ica . H ich S ch oo l a n d J r . C ollege. M u s ic , .A rt , L x - oreaslon. D o m e stic S d c u ce a n d S ecretaria l C o u r ^ B racin g •climate. A lt. 1900 ft . G y m ., Sw im m ing

Bm I n ew dorm itory w ith jw lv a te batba, _ ,G . NoPveiKGEB, A -M ., It u s ., B ox 156. B risto l, V » .

ST. HILDA’ S HALL chanesTow=* w v ..W h - n iia vron S ch o o l lo r G irls, E p iscop a l. Ih .the J h M io n i^ S v a l le y . CoU sgo preparatory , ^ e o - tw “ c r a r ^ . M u s ic a n d A r t . A U U e U » O w n s ir clasaea. Ind lvk lu n l instruction . SG50. O ata- lo g . M a r ia h P e n p l e t o n D d v a l , P rincipal.

11 A n n e s S c h o o lSThcvMmACiPtyscHOOi h ia p ns umrnsiTYE p iscop a l. E x cep tion a l en v iron m en t clculture. T liorc iig h C o lle se P reparation .

G irls 8 to 18 years. M ou n ta in C lim ate . .............JUtisIralei C a laloi B o x B . C h a r lo t t e s v il le , v a .

: l|


48

W r i t e H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r f o r I n f o r m a t i o n A b o u t A n y S c h o o l A n y w h

Southern—Girls

W A R D = B E L M O N TO I R L S A N D V O U N Q W O M g N

W A R D -B E L M O N T Com bines h igh - CSC acaaeiD ic tra in log a n d advantages o f extensive g rou n d s and ^ u lp n ie o t w ith th a t m uch-soufrht-

^ t h e r a cu ltu re a n d reflaem cnt. W A R D -B E L M O N T ofTere a slx- y ca r course o t s tu d y em bracing tw o years o f college. Its w ell-balanced curriculum m eets th e Individual needs o f students. E arly application fo r 1925-1926 Is necessary. A ddress

W A R D - B E L M O N T B e lm o n t H eights, Box 12, N aehvllle T e n n

B R E N A U C O L L E G E C O N S E R V A T O R Yselecs pa tron a g o 30 snalea: Dleoennt

a o o lo n ife ; looa tlon /O otbllJ^B luc RIdj-e M te N'ortb Of A tlanta ; Standard A .B . course; special a dvan -

In music, ora tory , a n , dom estic science, physical culture. 31 buddings. O u tdoor sports* sw im m ing, b oa ilog , h orseback riding , e tc . Catalog and UJuatraisd b ook .

A d d r e s s BREN AU , B o* H, GalneavlJIe, Ga.

Miss Harris’ Florida SchoolU n d e r^ a o rth ^ n m anagom ent, northern facu lty , io u r is t pupils uso h om e le x t -b o o k s . O u tdoor citiasos, o cea n bath ing th ro u g h o u t w inter. B o a rd -

school departm ents. O cto b e r t o June.M ie m i, F lorida1 0 5 7 B r k k e l J A v e n u e

ROBERTS-BEACH SCH O OL FOR GIRLSU ellgM Iully altuaieJ In co u n try near B a lilm ore o e v o t M to educational a o d personal d e v e lo o m cn i

_ C o " ,e 8 e preparation , general ? “ *)£•. ? " • D epa rtm en t lo r Junlora.

SupcrvlM d BihIctlts. C a ta log . L u cy R ob ertsP h .D ., Principal, B o a lOO. CacoaavlUe, M aryland

COLLEGE OF N O TRE D A M E OF MARYLANDA C a th olic l im liu t lo n fo r th e H igh er E d u cationj-sr UP , ar, t a . a «______________ .1. i_ _ « *r* « ig u e r xLoucattooOf w om en . R o i s t e r e d b y th e U n iversity o f the

'O f ‘N ew Y o r k and b y tb e M a ry lan d StateState v« » g in auu o y to e -M arviond State B oard o f E ducation . Hiirti S ch oo l a o d O ram m ar D c p a ^ e o i a . R es iden t au<l D a y . A d d jca s the Secretary. Charles St. A v e o u e , B a ltim ore . M cl.

M'A R Y L A N D COLLEGEFOR W o m e n , s o minuses Cram W ashinaion L llerary . D om . Scl.. Secretarial K in - dergarten . P hysica l F d u ca llon . M usic

e jl leading t o D E G R K E S . C A T A L O G B o x B , L U T H E R V IL L E , J ID

HOOD COLLEGE For Young Women® ‘ n H o m o E conom ics ,

and H M . In M usic. P ractica l courses In E d u ca -bullillngs.

book O tview s “ “ 'JJoseph H . Ap'iile, L L .D ., B o x B , F rederick, M d .

well euu lppcd . In the beautifu l O reen S ^ ln g V a lley near B a ltim ore P reparatory, OepCTal n n la h in c . Tnterm edlaw, M u i c , A rt! B S 'B ^ G a ^ ’Sn.''iJa“ ? ' LiviNasTo.N.

M I S S M I L L E R ’ S S C H O O LBidiJmore. L im ited to for ty girls. M u sic A n co lle g e nreparailon . C atalog E lixa " IT H m ' MiLLgR, 8 38 P ark A ve., Baltim ore, M d .

W ARREN TO N School,• n S ! ’ ’ W ash in gton lu beautiful P ied m on t VaUcy (.o lleg e preparatory, general courses n S i

prevails. I lo m e attnusphW e. G i Slearn t o stu a y a n d ' kn ow n a t u r e ' ' c a t a l i i u ?

. S ou llg n y — B o x 00 , W a rr^ to n ^ V a .M ile . L e a M .

Stuart H a ll , Staunton, Virginia» ? !a l f ? .S S 's o '? ? h e ^ 5 !S n « S I ’e ,% T A

F a ir fa x , TH allF or girls. Id th e B lue It ld ge M ountaiuti. College Kreparatonr, o o e year gra du a te w ork . sDocial w u i ^ . L ith la WA-itcr. l i ld tn g . G olf, r i c u r o u d

S p orw . « 0 D . C a talog . Jo h n N oblk MAXWEt u P r^ ld e n t. B a sic S la ilo n , B o x H, W ayoeeboro . Virginia,

V irgin ia C ollege£ « Expression , H o m e E co a o -

| ?sr® torl? ', toalRlng, L ibrary w ork, Journalism . R id ing. G olf, T cnata. B o x B , R oa n ok e Va

ere

Fall Enrollments

T T A V E y o u s e tt le d th e s c h o o l q u e s t io n f o r n ex t •L -*• year.i’ A r e y o u r ch ild re n g o in g w h e r e y o u k n o w th e y w ill b e w e ll ta k e n ca re o f in a d d it io n t o b e in g p r o p e r ly educated .^

W h e r e th e ir p la y t im e , as w e ll as th e ir s t u d y t im e w ill b e su p erv ised .? W h e r e t h e y w ill lea rn t o th in k q u ic k ly a n d t o a c t p r o m p t ly ? W h e r e th e y w ill le a rn t o b e co n s id e r a te o f th e r ig h ts o f o th e r s ? W h e r e th e y w ill lea rn t o s ta n d p r o p e r ly a n d w a lk p r o p e r ly a n d b re a th e p r o p e r ly ? W h e r e t h e y w ill m e e t th e so r t o f y o u n g p e o p le y o u w ish th e m t o h a v e f o r fr ie n d s in la te r life ?

A lt h o u g h th e re a re s e v e ra l m o n th s b e fp r e th e F a ll te r m b e g in s , th e b e s t s c h o o ls fill th e ir v a c a n c ie s e a r ly in th e S p r in g . N o w is th e t im e t o m a k e y o u r d e c is io n . S t u d y th ese p a g es c a r e fu l ly a n d w r ite t o th o s e s ch o o ls w h o s e a n n o u n c e m e n ts in te re s t y o u . T h e y w ill b e g la d t o se n d y o u d e ta ile d in fo r m a t io n a b o u t th e co u rse s a n d il lu s tr a te d lite ra tu re . P e r h a p s y o u c a n p la n t o v is it s e v e ra l o f th e s e s c h o o ls w h ile t h e v a re in session I f n o t , y o u c a n w r ite t o H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r f o r a d is in te r e s te d o p in io n . O u r r e p r e se n ta t iv e s h a v e v is it e d th e se s ch o o ls f o r y o u .

H A R P E R ’S B A Z A R S C H O O L D E P A R T M E N T

i i y W e s t 4 0 th S tre e t N e w Y o r k C it y

N a t i o n a l P a r k ^ o m i n a r y

For Y ou n j W om en Suburbs o f W aobuiglon.D .C .Jom es E- Am enl, P h.D ., LL.D ., P ta i ien i

X e a r n a t io n ’s c a p ita l in 90-a cr© esta te , I w o -y c a r J u n io r C o lle g e w ith s p e c ia l e m

p h a s is o n M u s ic . A l t , E g r e s s i o n , H o m e K co n o m ics , S e cr e ta r ia l T ra in in g . P o u r -y e a r c o u r s e m c o l le g e p r e p a r a t io n f o r y o u n g e r g irls. E x c e p t io n a l e q u ip m e n t in c lu d e s sw im m in g p o o l a n d g y m n a s iu m - A l l sp orts . J lo r s e b a c k n d jQ g . E ig h t c h a rm in g c lu b H ouses. R e fe r e n c e s re q u ire d . C a ta lo g .

R%gi ir»r, B o x 170, Forest Glen, M 4-

Washington—Girls

(Tbcvv Cbase School^ h g t o E -

St. M a r g a re t ’sA Real ischooi in the N aeiou's CapUct

L hccptioiia lly ihurough prci>arailon fo r college, w ltb spodfil courses in m usic, a n , b u s in e « and dom estic science. A sch oo l fo r sorluus w ork In the delightlul onvirqom ont o f W oiib liigton . C arefu l socia l training y i d lom e atm osiihcre. F or C atalog , atlilresa Mri. Ebabelb S. Gillsp. 2I15-B CalifK..!, S i. Wash., D. C.

C O L O N IA L SC H O O L F O R G IR L S' “ 'k t lo K In N b llo n a l C apita). H lg b

Schuol. Cotleite P rep aratory , CoM ,«late. D om cM Ic ,Coursea, M u a it A r t and E x -

S Iiotnc a n d socia l life.;'iW “' ‘“ ,,M I*Ch^lo[teCrliteadeiiF,vcrott, Prin., L5J3 t lg h c e e a tb St., X . W ., W asliln ston . D C

GUN5TGN HALL1934 F lo r id a A v e . , W a s h la d r o n . D . C .

A scbuol fo r glrla. E at. 1892, P rep aratory a pd a M d e m lc c o u r s ^ T w o -ye a r cra d u a te a n d college . ? I i „ '^“4 Expreasloii, D om oaiJc S c l e n tA tbleilcB . M b s . BEVBRLEr n . M a so n , P rliicli>S '

FAIRMONT School for Girls.B e g u la r a n d Specia l C ourses.

x f i lS A C ourses fo r H lsh S eb ool graduates i E d ucationa l advantages

o f N ational C apital. F o r oa ta logu a address F a i r m o n t S o h o o l , 2 1 t 1 S S t r o o t , W a s h l n a t o n , D . C .

K i n g — S m i t h S t u d i o S c h o o lF or y o u n g w om en. M usic, languages, dancing, m afic a rt ; any art, a cadem ic or co llc e e a u b le cc m ay b e elected, T u ition accord ing to am ount o f w ork taken,M r . a n d M r s . A U G U S T

K I N G -S M I T H . D irectors 1751 N e w H a m p s h ir e A v e .,

W a A h in fito n , D , C.

Sf. Tnarj/-of-ihe-UJoodsC o u r s S '” ’ W o m e n . S t a n d a r d C o l le n ia te

A c a d e m y . C o m p le t e h lB h s c h o o l c u r r i c u lu m . loti?B E xpreselob , A ll S p on a and A tb -

F or llluslra led S u lla in e a d d ras . T he Seerelani B o x 60, St. M a ry -o f-tb e -W o o d s , Indiana . .

Western—Girls

^cfiool for

C H I C A G Ot'uU tfrm beo'te SepUM^r gjr4

42nd_year. A cadem ic, CoL I c g e - P r e p u r a c o r y a u d J m iior C ollege courses. F ully accred ited . Co-oi>ec- aU vo w ith the U niversity o fC id c a g o . P ron a resfora il colleges and uoiverfiltlcs L xceptlom il advantagee In m usic, art, h om e econom ics a n d dram atic art. A ll a ih -leclev, includitiir h oraebaek rid« iQB. e w iin m in v an d b cak ac b all. H o m e ScFiciol in e ttc a c liv e , Hre.

I , , p r o o f b u lld in e s, w ith aobciooa. . .b o n u s , f i ^ t a d on o n e o f C n lc& a o ’ ti H nost ^ u k v a r d a

^* SmltJi-Mr*. BhaubwthBui't Smiih, brlnooole l Yf t H. * * * ’ *n<l O ook o f views-AdLlre.<tit b o x 2 l 4616 D re x e l B lv d ., C h lo a e e « » ,

O A K H U R S TM Im K e ad riok '8 C o lleg ia te S ch oo l fo r Glrla C ollege P rep aratory a n d A d v a n ce d G eneral C ourses. R es iden t F rench teacher. M od ern languages. M ualc a n d A rt. M ies H elen P . K endrick Priueipal, 724 0 a k S t .,W a lu u t HIU, C jn cln n a il O h io '

r j iT O O R M A M jS ch o o l fo r ( j i r l s

C o U cfie P r e p a r a t o r y . G e o e r a l C o u rse . M u s ic . A r t . R o o f p la y g ro u n d . S w im m in g p o o l . H o r s e b a c k r id in g . F ire

p r o o f . ]V rile f o r ca ta log to

M is s F b e d o n i a A l i e n In d ia n a o o lis

F R A N C E S S H I M E R SC H O O LF o r Glrla a n d y o u n g W cm e n . 2 years C oiIb m

M usic. A rt, E xpression , H ^ e E couom lca . 73rd year. C a m p u s ^5 acres O ut. d o ^ s p o r t a . 9 bu ildings. N e w C o lle g e d orm itory T erm open s S eptem ber Uth, 1925 C a ta lo c B ev .tV tu . P . M c K e e , D o a n , B c-x660 ,M t.C m ^ roll 111

M H U R S Tr r ,A P r ? P b r » t o r y S c h o o l f o r G ir ls .TJiider th e d irection o f RusCcni T each ers tvlib t u r o p M ii training. H o r s e b a c k r id in g A l lS p o r t s o u t o f D o o r s . •■w-ns. .o nM i s s I s a b c i . C r e i s i . e r , M i s s CAnoLiNE S u m n e r

CONNERflvinLE, Indiana,

H I L L C R E S TB j? ;b r e " i2 « “ 'ln*X“ld 'i r c i ’c“m o m l .nnd p iiye cbI doveJopm eiit eq iu illy eared far O n ly norm al ch ild rea accoD led *-u au. .

M ias Sarah M , D av I ‘*on. PrIn.B o x F , B ea v er D a m , W lacousin

G L E N D A L EJ u n ior floMese, h igh seb oo l a n d special courses. F u lly a ccr ^ ft tr t . F la t ra le 81000 Includes m usic

, D r . T . F ranklin M nraball, Pres.O hio, G lendale (suburb o l Cm olnuatl) B o x 9

4 ’Y t a l y I - T a l l f 'd u l 's i d i a t i n c t i v e V , / a K n a i l s c h o o l f o r G lr U72nd year. B oa rd in g a n d D a y . C o lle ia

prcpw aloTO , general dom estic science eoursea d ram a u c arts, B ta fln g , S w Im m liS ;

T enn is . B id new gym aaalum . N iunbM s lim ited . A ttra ctiv e Dum c n fe. B ook le t

M o o r e . P flbclpala, 688 H o lly A v e ., Sc. P au l, i f lu n .

LINDENWOOD COLLEGE„ , F o u n d e d 182750 m inu tes from St. L ouis. S taoilard C ollege lorY o u n g W o m e n F u lly accred ited . 2 and f year

138 A cres. G ym nasium , S w im m ing P o o l, fla ta log J . L . noEM ER, P resident, B e x 525, St. C barles, M o .

Western—Boys

St. John’s Military AcademyT h e A m e r ic a n R ii^hy

E m inently Itttcd fo r iia ln ln g A m erican b o y a 21. Bcliplnstlc and m ilitary liistnicU on.S l t n a ^ o n high g rou n d In W a u kesh a Ciounty L ak e R eg ion . V rite B o x 3 0 -D , DelaUclil, W isconsin

NORTHWESTERN a£«3EM Y70 m l. from C h ica g o . A n en d ow ed C ollege P ropara- lo r y S ch oo l and J u n ior C ollege. Ita d la tlncU veadvau - t ^ e s and m ^ o d a Ititcroat dlBcrim inatiiig parenta. GUI,, f t . p . D a v id s o n , P res,, L a k e G eneva, W to.

THE V A L L E Y RAN CH SCHOOLV a lle y , W y o m in g v ia C o d y

la tcn a iv e Instruction t o m eet co lle ce entrance TOU lrem ents o n SOOO-acre ranch . O u t-d oor life w ith Im rsc fo r m c Ii b o y . L im ited . C a ta log A d dress Eastern O m ce. 7u E . 46tli S t.. N ew Y ork .

SAN


P r o g r e s s i v e S c h o o l s A d v e r t i s e . T h e B e s t A r e

4 9

H e r e

Western—Boys

W A Y L A N D A C A D E M YFOUNDBD 1855

College P rep aratory a n d G eneral Coorsea* I A ^ e h om o sch oo l w ith C hristian atm osphere. ' aihletlcs. M uale. Send fo r B o o h le i. _ _

Edwin P . B row n, B o a B A , B ea v er D a m , WIe.

H O W E BodyS C H O O L

F o r C alolog Address R E V . C H A R L E S H E R B E R T Y O U N G , S .T .D .

R « c t o r , B o x B , H o>vc, I n d ia n a

SHATTUCK SCHOOLC E P IS C O P A L )

A S chool th a t k a ow e b o y ’a ph ysica l and m ental naeds Prepares fo r th e b est oollogca, o r business. A ll athlptlca. M ilitary drill. S'Jth year . A ddress Sbartuck School, B o x H , FarlbauJt, M in n .

New Mexico Military InstituteA State-owned ca valry sch oo l o l exceptiona l academ ic standarda H ig h sch oo l a n d Junior college. Splendid enuipm ont. R .O .T .C . D ry , bracin g climate, 370u ft . a ltitude. E v e ry b o y rides. M o d -

CoL^/^C^Tl’COlimaD, Supt. B o x B , R osw ell, N . M .

S P E C IA L SC H O O LST ^ O E S y o u r c h ild n e e d s p e c ia l c a r e ? I f so , h e sh ou ld

n o t b e s u b je c t e d t o th e s a m e in s t r u c t io n w h ic h is g iv e n t o th e a v e r a g e b o y o r g irl.

H e s h o u ld b e s e n t t o a n in s t itu t io n w h o s e te a ch e rs h a v e m a d e a s p e c ia l s t u d y o f th e s u b -n o r m a l c h ild . W h e r e th e s c h o o l is s m a ll e n o u g h t o m a in ta in th e sp ir it o f a h o m e , y e t la rg e e n o u g h t o g iv e a ll th e a d v a n ta g e s o f a re a l s ch o o l.

T h e H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r r e p r e se n ta t iv e s h a v e v is it e d a g rea t m a n y o f th e s e s ch o o ls in d if fe r e n t p a r ts o f th e c o u n t r y , a n d i f y o u w ill te l l us s o m e th in g a b o u t y o u r p r o b le m a n d w h e re y o u a re a n x io u s t o f in d a s c h o o l , w e sh a ll b e g la d t o h e lp y o u .

H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R S C H O O L D E P A R T M E N T

! i g W e s t 4 0 th S tre e t , N e w Y o r k C it y

Polo Skiing Trapping 20 B oys

BUCKHORN^P R IV A T E C LA SS W O R K

R o c h y M o u n ta in T Tational P a r i L Y O N S , C O L Q .

G o lf R id in g

C lim liiog T u itio n $2000 ]

California—Boys

P A G EM IL IT A R Y A C A D EM Y

A BJC SCHOOL FOR LITTLE BOYSS afety — n c a l lb — H ajjp ln fas

F o r youoBSCers from 6 to 14.S ym pa th etic , W a tch fu l, la te l-

llg co t O iiidance.H o m o C a ro a n d TraJnlog.Capable, M o th er ly H ou ae-M o-

trons.W o m e n T cackerfi in E lem on-

ta ty G rades.O pen A ir S lc e p l^ P orches.O u td oor L ife m ^ n n y Soutbero

California.M U ltnry T ra lb lb g fo r the L ittle

Fellows.K d b o y s ov er 14 adm U tod.N o H igh S ch oo l pupils.Send In a pp lica tion s early.BoautlfuJ C a ta logu e a n d V iew

B ook , S.end fo r it.R O B T . A. GIBBS, Headm aslerItoM le 7 . B n s 0 4 8 . Lu» <'al.

SAN DIEGO ARMY AND NAVY ACADEMYPrepares fo r Colleges, W e st P o lo t a n d AnnapollB . U niversity o f Cullforu la 's h lgb ost sch o la stic rating. Christian in fluoaccs L and a o d W a te r sp oria all year. Sum m er Sessions, J u ly 1 -Sept. 1. C aW logue. A d d r e s C a p t . T h o a . A . D a v is , B o x H . P a c if ic B e a ch S ta ., S a o D ie g o , G al.

California—Co-Ed.

Special Schools

THE BANCROFT SCHOOLF o r c h i ld r e n w h o s e d o v o lo p r a e n t h a s n o t

p r o g re s s e d n o r m a lly— F O R T Y -F I R S T Y E A R —

W in te r a cbool near Philadelphia . Sum m er C o m p in M ain e. F ifty -fo u r acrea o f ground, tw enty-six buildings, s lx ty -e lg h t em ployees, lo d u d m g tw elve teachers and tw en ty-e ig h t governcffiea.E . A . F a r r i n g t o n , M . D . , J a n s i a C o u l s o n C o o l a y

A d d r e s s B o x 1 5 5 , H a d d o n f i o l d , N . J .

M I S S A R B A U G H ’ S S C H O O LFor D e a f Childrtn

P r iva te Iiom e sch oo l. lu d lv ld u a l instruction . T each es speech exclusively . P repares pupils to en ter sch oo ls fo r hearing ch ildren . M ild cilm ute pcrm lia bcnJtbfu l o u td o o r W e. W rite lo r cata log. M a con , Georgia.

H CD LeY^ I i ;id iv id u a l SehOOl‘a n d Sumtisr C anto

F o r B o y s and G lt ls w h o rsQ u ir* m o r e p w ^ c v s l s t t o n a o n sn d iiK livldosI fn stru etlon l h « " ca n b s R in tb e y e m la r ■ehoQls. A c o i le m ic , l itd u 8 E r« l. C u ltu rsl.

M r s . J . R . H a d l e y d . R . H a d le y . M .P .JVineipd? i^estoenc P h y s ie ta n

GTenslde* Pa. (te *«t. /rom Pftilo.)

THE PHILIP MAYHEW COLLIER KINDERGARTENA p la y sch o o l hom e f o r u o n n ^ children

3 m onths t o 7 years. B ea u tifu l Shasta re e lo o . C lim ate unoxcelled . Lndlviduat care o f H e a lto , H a p p iness, Character, 12 m o n th s scarion. T erm s St.OOO. E lisabeth F lem ing C ollier, P rlu . G renada . C alif.

California—Girls

M A R LBO R O U G H S C H O O L c m L sB oard ing n od d a y school. 36th y e a r opcna

Sept, 22. G enera f a o d coll'g o ccrtiflca to i

^ uslc. F rench ,t'AUOkC, A'lCIIVU, lAlBtOIYB eautifu l m od ero b u lld logs . O pen air

preparatory hte. Special

o f At Art,coursce. C olic advantaged foretc. B eautifu l ................. , . , .atudy room s. O u td oor Ufc th ro u g b o u t year. Gym naaium , basketba ll, tennis, horseback riding. A d d r c s M rs. L u tb e r D ra k e . P res., or MlflB A d a S. B lak e, P rln ., 5 02 9H W 'cst T h ird Street, L o s A ogcles.

THE BISHOP’S SCHOOLF or Girls. In term ed ia te , G enera l. C o lle g e P reparatory. M u d e , A rt. A th le tics . 18 m i from San D iego. C a ta log . R t . R e v . Joseph H . Johnson , Pres. B oard o f T ru stees . B o x 15. La.roIIa. Cal. Coroim e Seely C um m ins. A .M ., V a ssa r, H ead-

mlstrcaa.

SOUND VIEW SCHOOLF O R B A C K W A R D C H I L D R E N

In d iv id u a l In airu ctlon . Sum m er S ch oo l in M aine. 7 6 P ro so e c t S t., P ortchcater , N e w Y otk.

T el. P o n cb e s te r 1556M .

PERKINSF or ch ild ren rcqulrlDB sneclal trnlulnjr and education. U n i u r p a s s s d « a u l p m « n t o n i j i j y - a o r o m - t a t o lln clm ate h o m e Ule. E xperienced Stan. M ed - leal d irection . F r a n k l i n H. Parkins, M .O ., B o x 53, L a n e a s t e r , M a s s .

F L O R E N C E N I G H T I N G A L E S C H O O L

For BACKWARD CHILDRENK aton a h , N . Y ,— 42 M ile s from N . Y .

ID tho B eautifu l H ills o f W estch ester C ou n ty . R u d o lp li S. F ried, Principal.

T H E B I N G H A M T O N T R A I N I N G S C H O O L A n id ea l p r ivate b om e-ach oo l fo r nervous, b ack

w ard and m enta l defectives . N o a ge ilrolt. P hysica l C ulture. M a n u a l trolnJitf a n d a ll branclxoa. O pen y e a r around. T erras $ 7 6 pe r m on th a o d up.

M b . a n d M b s . A u g i js t A . B o l u i . Supta. t l 2 F alrv low A v e ., B ingham ton , N h w Y o « k .

S U M M E R T I M EDon’t wait till the hot weather is here to decide about a camp- In the first place,

you’ll be too rushed and uncomfortable to give the question proper thought. In the second place, all the good camps will be filled. Make your arrangements for the children now. For information about any Camp, write to Harper’s Bazar School Dept.

Special Schools

DEVEREUX SCHOOLS& r C h ild re n who&e P t q ^ o s bus been R etarded

T h re e separate sch oo ls fo r B o y s a n d G irls o f all ages requiring Seientlflc O bservation and_Specl4 l In stru ction . M a le fa cu lty fo r o ld er b oys .T - DEVEBEUX, D irector , B o x B .

H B L E N .4Ber\vyn, P a.

T H E W R IG H T O R A L SC H O O LF o r t h e D e a f a n c t P a x t ia l l y D e a f

M t . M orris P ark W e st . N . Y . C ity . K lD dergartcn t o C ollege E ntrance, A rehned b oard ib g a n d day s ch o o l v n th h o m o atm osphere. L arge fa cu lty . In d iv id u a l attebtJoD. O u t-d oor gym nasium . In s tru ction en tire ly b y O ral a n d A uricu lar m ethods. C h ildren fro m fo u r years u p accep ted , C o -od u ca - tlon a l- 30th year.

The Woods’ SchoolF O R E X C E P T IO N A L C H IL D R E N

G IR L S B O Y S L IT T L E F O L K S B o o k le t B o x 1S2, L a n ^ h o rn , P a .

Professional

KaiharjneGibbsSchoolo/ ' SECHETARIAL& Executive

Training fo r ed u ca ted w om enB O S T O N O n e - y e a r CO u r « e i n e l u d e s

technica l, e con om ic and 151 CoiiimoDweailth Are. b ro o d buslocas trolbLng.

preparing lo r superior positions.Residence

90 Marlboro Sireel RegisUv’ s Office

and School

NEW YORK 247 Park Avenue

PROVIDENCE 15S Asfeil SirMt

T w o - y e a r c o u r a e I r t e lu d -iDg five co llog e su b jects fo r a tudcn w n o t desiring college, b u t w ishing a cu ltura l o s w e ll o s business cducatloD .S e v e n m o n t h s ’ e e u r a e — e x ecu tive training fo r co lleg o w om en a n d w < ^ m en w ith b usiness experience.

SECRETARIAL SCHO O L

Professional

N B B W A ^ 'S U R NC o m p lete C e u rse s lA A il T y y e s o f :

D AK cm c |t « r Q iB M B f « r A dgle* op O b)rdr«e s

im ln c siPriti fer A n S sr Cell in trrm at §

N E D W A Y B U R N |S tu d ios o f Stag,o Daneiiid« In c . |

m i B road w ay N ew Y o r k {/Open 9 a.B. Is IV “

.

BALLARD R'=8 is te r n o w F o r

c r ’ t r n r i T secre taria l courseO n W J_- E s t a b l is h e d 53 Y e a r s 616 L e x . A v e . , at5.3rd S t . C e n tr a lB r a n c h Y . W .C . A .

O l d c o l o n y S c h o o lSooetarial and Business Training lor Yount Women

O ne y e a r course. B esU lcnt a n d d a y pupils. F lorcneo B . L a M oreaux. A . B .

M rs. M a rg a ret V a il F ow ler, Principals, 315-317 B cu eon S treet, K ostcn , M ass.

55 CONKLIN'S105 W e s t 4 0 th S t . N e w Y o r k

h a it t T R u ss ia n I R o n n a l f5 c b o o l o t Siancing los-ies west 57th st., n. v.

L O U IS H . C H A L IF , P rincipa l " I a dm ire y o u r energy a n d w o rk ." _ _

A N N A P A V L O V A F a ll a n d W in te r Classes. C a ta log o n request.

CARTER WADDELLS ch oo l o f D ancing

F o r th e profeeelcnal, the am ateur a n d th e teacher. 38 W e s t 7 2n d St- N ew Y o rk . T c l, E n d lco tt 4188.

ADELAIDE & HUGHES(A m erica ’ s B ep reseiitaU vc D ancers)

atuclto o f D ance A d va n ced . Ib ierm cd ia to and beglnucre’ classes fo r c-hlMrcn a n d adults In B a llet, A esth etic a n d T a p D ancim c. C om p le lo training fo r s o c lc ly o r th e atage. w r i t e l o r C a ta log B . 4 5 W , 37th , P la ta 7635.

DENISHAWNR U T H S T . D E N IS A N D T T D S H A W N S c h o o l o f D aK L 'Ing a n d I t s R e la t e d A rte

S hort C ourses A lw a y s O pen . C a ta logu e o n Requcsst K a t u a r a s b B d so r , D irector, 327 W . 2 8 th S t., .

M A S T E R I N S T I T U T E O F U N I T E D A R T S

MUSIO. - PAINTING— 8CULl*TURE ARCHITECTURE ...O PERA CLASS BALLET — DRAMA ••• UiCTURES

S«nJ for Cataloru« H 3 1 0 R I V E R S I D E D R I V E , N E W Y O R K C I T Y

Institute of M usical ArtF rank D a m ro sch — D irector . E n d ow ed . A l! bran ch es o f m usic. C o n d u cte d o n ly fo r s tu d en ts o f real m usica l ab ility a n d serious p u ipu se . C ata log o n requeat, L e p t - O .1 2 0 C l a r e m o n t A v e . , C o r . 1 2 2 n d S t . , N e w Y o r k

H A R R I E T T E M E L I S S A M I L L SK la d e r g a rC e Q -P r lx n a ry T r a in in g S c h o o l

A ffiliated w ith N e w Y o r k U n iversity U n iversity C redit. S tu den ts enrolled fo r Roptom - b e r a n d F ebru ary . E x ce p tlo n o l rcstdence facilities. M ias Harriett© Mcllasu, M ills . P rin cl pal.F ou r B , 08 F ilth A v en u e , N ew Y ork , N . Y .

T H E P E R R Y -M A N S F IE L D C A M PS T E A M B O A T S P R I N G S , C O L O .T h e C am p w ith a v ita l purpose.

N orm al a n d P rofession al S ch oo l o f D an cin g . D ra m atics a n d S ta ge ProcJucUon- Sculpture. H o m e o ( tb e P o rt ia STansfleld D ancers. Recreation a l C am p. In stru ction H orseback riding , ewim - zplbg, tennis. B o o k le t 1140 G ran t S t.. D onvor, C olo .

“ Only College of Aucfion Bridge’ ’'E-,pert personal instruction, for individuals or classes, beginners, advanced players, or teachers. Special lessons on any desired features. Course by mail. Visitors always welcome. Under direction o f E. V. Shepard-

SH EPARD'S STUDIO. Inc.B o x B T ei. Q rc le 10 0 4 1

20 W e s t 5 4 th S t r e e t N e w Y o r k , N . Y .

W O M EN !B E C O M E IN D E P E N D E N T

Im prove your oum appearance tvhile learn ing to im prove chat o f others

B ecom e a m em ber o t this h igh ly respected p ro fession. M arinello graduates lea d everyw here — are know n a n d sought— earn $3,000 t o $20,000 a year. Learn scientifically and thorough ly a t the largest a n d best-equipped schools o f beau ty culture in the country . M arinello teaches Facia l and S calp T rea ta en ts , Sham pooing. M anicuring, M arcel a n d W ater- W avin g , H airdressing, Perm anent W avin g and Electrolysis. . . . . ,D a y a n d n igh t classes, a dva n ced a n d elem enta ry . E a sy term s. Call o r w rite fo r ou r School C atalog.

T H E M A R IN E L L O S Y S T E M 366B F ifth A venue 806B T ow er Court

N ew Y o r k C ity C h icago. 111.


50

M a s t e r C o u r s e s B y M a s t e r A r t i s t s A r e L i s t e d H e r e

Professional

AM ERICAN ACADEM Y OF D R A M A T IC ARTS

F o u n d e d in 1 S 8 4 b y F r a n k l in H . S a rg e n tAm erica ’s Leading Insticution for Dramatic and Expressional A rt and Training

F u lly e q u ip s fo r

SlSctm g T ea c h in g D ir e c t in g G ives P oise , P ow er, P ersonality

F o r a n y V o c a d o n fn Lifie.Neu^ S p r in g C la s s B tn in s A p r i l 1 st

E x te n s io n D ra m a tic C o u rse s in co -o p e ia c io Q w ithC O L U M B I A U N I V E R S I T Y

lUusirated C a ta log o f uH C ourse; from R o o m 175D C A R N E G I E H A L L , N e w Y o r k

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S I N G IN G an<J P H O T O -P L A YFor AetlBX, T«a«>(lns, Dirveting.

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A L B E R T I S C H O O L OF E X P R E S S I O Na n d D r a m a t ic A rt

R egu lar courses O cto b e r t o June. C o n n ected w ith E tuari W alker’s C om p an ies and Y o u u t P eop le ’s T h eatre , I dc. 1114 C f t m « le H all. N ew Y o rk OUy.

S c h o o l o f th e T h e a tretHRBSHOLD PLAYERS

PIR6CT0RS Clajib Taas Uajob Gbohcs A russWaltbs Hampobn E i^Q FsacusoMRachel Cbotbbbs Faank CbavstSix BOBChv' etock •xptrienc* b«f«r« gr»4- qbUao. Dssciog. feneiag. voice devetop- meoc. eantomim*. Shakespeare, piirwrittnr.•le, ^ m m «r tern 09sns Jw n tSik.

P<>rcaU1«gai]ilro8s, ” Tb« Director’ ' FaiKCeSS TUBATke, 104 W . 39th St.

NEW YORk CITY

NEW YO RK SCH O O L o f EXPRESSION'Ch'iriercil by R egsnls o f N . Y . Stale Unit. 61st year- C lass and priva te inscruction. V o ice tra in ing fo r pu b lic speaking, s t ^ e . S aturday ana e v e n iiu classes. D efooiTve speech cured. C atalog .

362 W e s t 5 6 th S t r e e t , N . Y . C .

Emerson College of OratoryL argest S ch oo l o f O ra tory . Rolles- lettrea a n d P ed a gog y In A m erica. Sum m er Session. 46th year. D egrees g ranted . Addroae H a b b t S e ym o u rROSS.Djfdn, Huntinoton CWnSerf.BoSCOlU

Philadelphia School o f btpresslon & Dramatic ArtA ctin g— T each ing— D| rec tiog . A 1ms to d e v e lo p In d l- v lduBlliy and cu ltiv a te P crson a llly w hich w ill prom ote success In ih o P rofesslona], B u ^ n css a n d doclaJ w o r ld . G eneral C ulture and F lo ls lilog Courses.

E l iza b e t h l . ScnREiHER, H ea d o f ^ b o o l . C tcs iD u i t I7U i SH ., PhUfldelphla, P a.

EDITH COBURN NOYES SCHOOLO ral B cg llsb D ra m a Cliar&oter EducatfOQ A nalysis ahd lo tc rp re ta tlo n o f L itera ture. V o ice ,' D ic t ion . F u lly Q u ip p e d L ittle T h eatre . 17lh Y ea r.

E d ith c o b u b n N oy es . P rincipal,S y m p h o o y C bam hers. B oston .

THE SARGENT SCHOOLO F P H Y S I C A L E D U C A T I O N

F ou n d ed 1831 b y D r. D . A . Sargent. B o o k le t 00 request.

L . W . S A R G E N T , D ir e c t o r , C a m b r id g e . M aas.

P O SS E -N ISS E N S C H O O Lo f P bysicaE E d u c a t io n

F o r W o m e u . 3Sth year, 3 -y ca r regular course O ne y e a r special m edical gym naatlcs n od rmueaBe. P la y grou n d w ork . Intensive sum iuer courses and cam u . D orm I lories. A pply to Secretary, 779 B ea con S t.. B oston , M ass.

Teachers’ Agencies

THE F ISKTEACHERS’AGENCYO flers unparalleled a crv lce. N e a rly ev ery private s M o o l in A m erica baa e m p loy ed teachers o n ou r recom m endation .

C . s . C R O S M A N , 2 2 5 F I F T H A V E . , N . Y .

PARENTS, PUPILSAND SCHOOLS

T F Y O U are c o m in g t o N e w Y o r k th is S p r in g , y o u arec o r d ia l ly in v ite d t o v is i t th e S c h o o l R e c e p t io n R o o m

w h ic h H a r p e r ’ s B a z a r m a in ta in s f o r th e e x c lu s iv e u se o f p a r e n ts , p u p ils a n d s ch o o ls .

I f y o u are a p a r e n t w h o s e c h ild r e n a re y e t t o b e en r o l le d in th e r ig h t s c h o o l f o r th e F a ll te r m , w e sh a ll b e g la d t o d is cu ss w ith y o u th e m e r its o f th e d iffe re n t s c h o o ls . W e h a v e o n file c a ta lo g s a n d b o o k s o f v ie w s o f m o s t o f th e m . M o r e o v e r , i t is n o t u n lik e ly th a t re p r e se n ta t iv e s o f m a n y o f th e s c h o o ls w ill b e in N e w Y o r k th is S p r in g . P e r h a p s w e ca n a rra n g e f o r a p p o in t m e n ts , a n d t h e y w ill b e g la d t o m e e t y o u in o u r re ce p t i o n ro o m .

I f y o u a re a p u p il a lr e a d y e n ro lle d in s o m e s c h o o l , a n d e x p e c t t o p a ss th r o u g h N e w Y o r k , w e sh a ll b e g la d t o h a v e y o u v is it u s . P e r h a p s o n e o f o u r e d ito rs ca n a d v is e y o u a b o u t c lo t h e s , o r a c tu a l ly h e lp y o u w ith y o u r s h o p p in g .

I f y o u a re a s c h o o l p r in c ip a l a n d e x p e c t t o sp e n d s o m e t im e in th e c i t y , w e sh a ll b e g la d t o h a v e y o u m a k e th is S c h o o l R e c e p t io n R o o m y o u r h e a d q u a rte rs . H e r e y o u w ill f in d te le p h o n e a n d s te n o g r a p h ic s e r v ic e , a n d a c o n v e n ie n t p la c e t o m e e t fr ie n d s a n d p r o s p e c t iv e p a tro n s .

T h e S c h o o l R e c e p t io n R o o m is lo c a t e d o n th e e le v e n th f lo o r o f o u r b u ild in g a t 1 19 W e s t 4 0 th S tre e t— m id w a y b e tw e e n th e G r a n d C e n tr a l a n d P e n n s y lv a n ia te r m in a ls . T h e te le p h o n e n u m b e r is P e n n s y lv a n ia2000.

D irector .

H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R S C H O O L D E P A R T M E N T

119 W e s t 4 0 th S tr e e t N e w Y o r k C it y

Professional

The T raphagen Schcx)l of Fashion

T h e f irs t a n d o n ly a r t s c h o o l in A m e r ic a w h ic h b r id g e s t h e g u l f b e tw e e n t h e a m a t e u r a n d t h e p ro fe ss io n a L I n i t t h e s c h o o l a n d bu sin ess h o u s e a r e c o m b in e d a n d id e a lly lo c a te d .A l l p ^ s e s f r o m e le m e n ta ry t o .c o m p le t e m a s te ry are t a u g h t in s h o r te s t t im e c o m -

Ea t ib le w ith th o ro u g h n e ss - la y a n d E v e n in g sessions .

S u m m e r c lasses n o w fo r m in g .

W r ite f o r A n n o u n ce m e n t B B T H E L T R A P H A G E N

R o d in S t u d io B u i ld in g 200 W e s t 5 7 th S t r e e t N o w Y o r k

Vhe NEW YORK. SCHOOL o f INTERIOR DECORATION-'441 MADISON AVE’NEW YORK.

SBERBlLb WHITOIf. DLSECTOBPRACTICAL TR A IN IN G COURSE Sum m er term J u ly 7 th t o AufusC

Send fo r aiintog SO

H O M E S T U D Y C O U R S E S Stare a n y tim e— C a ta log A

N E W S C H O O L O F D E S IG ND 0U 0LA8 JOH>) CONh-AH, PrOS.

D a y & e v en in g classes In F in e 4 A p p lied A rcs T w o -y e a r d ip lom a course. S ta n o t 20 S pecialists

S s ia b .lS Y r s .^*7clc B O S T O N

1080 B ro a d w a y SSai 248 B o y ls to n S treet

S T U D Y I N N E W Y O R K O R P A R I S ? T h is Sum m er— S en d fo r circulars

N.Y. School of Fine & Applied ArtIsternatienal Plans. Prsnk Airah Parsons, Pres.

C ourses lo r T eacbe ia , Professlonala. I ^ m o o , A rch itectu re , D ecoration C oetum e, S tage. P oster

A D D R E S S S E C R E T A R Y 2 2 3 9 B r o a d w a y N e w Y o r k

BOSTON SCH O O L IN TERIO R DECO RATIO N

OorrcspondO Q ce Couraea C ou rse A — P rofesslooa l T ra in in g C ourse.Course B — D o m e stic C ourse— H o w t o P la n Y o u r

O w n H ouse .E n ro llm eu t L im ited— W rite f o r P rosp ectus

A ddress P . 0 . 143, B o s to n (C o p le y S ta tio n ), M ass

N .Y . P fiO F fiS S IO N A L S C H O O L O F IN T E R IO R O eC O R A T IO N

H . F rancis W in ter, D ire cto r A ctu a l Proleeslnnal T ra in ing , S tudios, W ork shops, V isltatioos. S upp lem ented With p lacem ent tra ia lca ,

H cgu iar C ourses o r E x ten sloa T ra in ing Q uarterly Classes. (3 m i. course.) Send fo r b ook let. *3 W e rt i& th S tre e t N. Y . C.

D E S I G N I N G and M I L L I N E R YD ressm aking and PaCterQ C u ttin g Caught fo r w holesale, re ta il o r h om e use. D a y a n d E v en in g Classes. C oll o r w rite fo r narclculars. M c D o w e ll D rcss- m a l ^ a n d M U llaery S chool. E stabU sbed 1876. N o B ra n d ies . 68 W e s t 4i)th S t., N o w Y ork .

C incinnati ^onscrbatorlaV ' EST. 1867 K d - O F M U S IC .IN C .

N o te d fa c u l t y In a ll branchoa o* lauslc D orm ltorlfB . B erth a B au t, D li-coior.

F o r ca ta logu e address N . A . H ow ard , R eg is tra r K lg b ra u d a o d B urnet A v e . a n d O ak St.

C laclnnatU O.

Professional

T h e M a r y la n d I n s t itu teB a lt i m o r e . M a r y la n d . NWErY-sEVENTH v s a r D ep a rtm on is In F in e A rt. N o rm a l A r t . Industria l A rt, S cu lpture, T e a ch ers ' T ra in ing , A rch itectu re M e ch a n ica l D ra w in g . A d d ress a l o m B b m e n t D irector.

Interior D e co ra tio nThe Arts and Deeoralhn Practical

Homt Study Course S pon sored b y A r u <& D ecoration M agazine.

th is fasc inating coureo Is thorough ly pr&ctlcm a n d a u th orita tive . E m in en t In terior D ecora tors g u id e y o u th rou gh every pbaso o f the suh- Ject, su ch as ih o treatm ent o f w alls, floors and ceilings, the per iod s ty les &nd th e professlooal aspects o f th o w ork . Spare m om entB a t h om e d ev oted 10 these dellgh ltu l, beau tifu lly Illustra ted lessons g iv e y o u a com prehensive know ledge th a t w ill p ro v e a t on ce o l th e highest cu ltura l in terest a n d o f praccle&J v a lu o in planning the decorarion a n d furoish ings o f y o u r o w n h om o, o r w ill eq u ip y o u lo r an attra ctive career.

W rite T o d a ; for Beautiful BookletA postca rd o r le tter b rings a h a n dsom e brochure on In terior D e co ra tio n t h a t explains th is h om e- s tu d y plan In deta il. Send fo r It to d a y V o co s t o r ob iicu tlon . A r ts & D ecoration . D e n t 134, 45 W . 4 5 th S t., N e w Y o r k C ity ,

SC H O O L O F F IN E A R T S A N D C R A F T S , In c .

I Catoiof;. llluslTQted folder on regueH.* M iss K a th a r in e B . C h ild , D irector

^ o o m 12, 349 N ew bu ry Street, B oston ► M ass.

H O W A M ^ T U D YC H A N G E D ^M Y L I F E

f t m s F R E E B o o k l e t W I L L HELP T H O S E W H O •HOPE To STUDY A R T THIS S U M M E R

academycFFlNEftRTSS I E A S T M A O l SON ST

L i C t - H C A G O

T R A I N E D N U R S E$15 m o n th ly a llow ance. Id ea l liv in g cond itions. T to d Is , su rf bath ing . 3 hou rs from N e w Y o rk - 8 -hour d a y . 2V-5 y e a r course. A g o 18 t o 32; 2 years h igh schooi. Send lo r deecrlp tivo folder a n d ap p lica tion . So u t m a m p t o n H o s p it a l Aa&o- ciA T io if, S ou th a m pton , L o n g Island.

YALE UNIVERSITY SCH O OL OF NURSINGOUeri m Iwcnty-elebt m c n t b s 'c o u /M in n u re ln s . T b « r*ellU I«« f o r tn e v u o iio n la e iu d * th o Y a le S c h o o l o f jdedlcin«. thu 6 c a d -

H o ip lt o l , tho U n lro re it rC J ln ic . u d th e N « v H a v o n V U ttu iff N o r a o S o r r le o , A limited Dor o f • eh o ltre lu p a w ill b o A v o f lu b lo f o r atudenin w h o Dreaeat ■ d Y a n cM edocatlonal a u a lin c tt io n a . F u ll In fo rm k tlon m nr DoohcaJflmj th r o u s b tho D oa n , Valb Schuoi. op NuKaiMG. 830 C od a r S t re o c N r w H a v s n . CONN,

W orcester Domestic Science School(R e m o v e d t o G reater B oston )

T ra in s fo r tea ch ers o f cook ery , sew ing, dietitians, ro o m . O n e a n d tw o y e a r N o rm a l Courses.

C a ta log . M a r y E . S m it h , S e c . , 110 W a b u n H ill R d ., C h e s t n u t H ill , M a ss .

TheCam bridge SchoolD o m e st ic A rch itec tu re a n d L a n d s c ^ e A rch itectu re

A P rofession al S ch oo l lo r w o m e n HaNBT A t h e r t o n F r o st . M . A rch

13 B o y ls to n St- C am brid ge . M ass .

I


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 51

(M j

6 TVest 57th StreetA iiep fr em F ifth A ven u e N S W Y O R K

The W orld’s Show Place o f Fashion

HATS, GOWNS,COATS and W RAPS

Prices Never Excessive

D a m e F a sh ion C o m e s to T o w n■\ X r iT H the first days o f Spring, Fifth Avenue and Madison, and the

' ^ streets east and west of these thoroughfares, seem to put on their best bib and tucker— for Dame Fashion is abroad.

Never do the shops look more attractive than on these early spring days. Every ship has brought things from Paris— frocks and furbelows, hats and bags that speak of Paris and vie with the creations that New York herself has originated.

The sky is blue; the streets rain-swept and clean from a passing shower; the sunlight sparkles and, down the street, in a perpetual parade pass

, and repass the lovely ladies and charming girls who, even the French admit, are among the best-dressed women o f all the world.

Indeed, New York is delightful in spring. For shopping, for walking, for the quiet little tea that comes at the restful hour of five before the mad rush of dressing for dinner begins. T o visitors and New Yorkers alike the city says, “ You are one of us! And please be merry!”

S t o p n e a r t h e S h o p s

F r o m t h e w in d o w s o f y o u r r o o m a t t h e W a ld o r f -A s t o r ia y o u c a n se e n e a r ly a l l th e s h o p s t h a t y o u w is h t o v is i t .

T h is f a m o u s h o t e l i s r ig h t in t h e m id s t o f t h e b e s t N e w Y o r k s to r e s , a n d e x t e n d s a s p e c ia l w e lc o m e a n d a t t r a c t iv e s e r v ic e t o w o m e n w h o m a k e i t th e ir h o m e w h i le s h o p p in g .

F if t h A v en u e 33rd and 34th StreetS; N ew Y o r k

1 8 E a s t 4 6 t h S t . NEW YORK

GoWNS:HaTS:

’ Shoes:. . it’s the

tout ensemble that counts!” ^

P a r is N ew York

A n n O ' Connor, i n c .

f o r Sm art Sport, D a y tim e a n d Evening (flothes

The Shop o f Individuality

y g y UhCadison zAvenue

A ndelys

pt.ACE, delicacy, exquisiteness— t h e s e qualities describe Andelys as accurately as they set the

whole tone for Penet’s and all die fasdnatii^ shoes ffiat grow in its g a r d e n - l i k e setting.Andelys may be had in a variety o f leather combinations.

I I y o u ca n n ot a cc them , send fo r the b o o k J e t o f exQuisitcnosa in w h ich th e y are illustrated.

F lB r V G tlniiS K o s Sa io rx .

6 1 0 M a d iso ix . A v e n u ea t 5 3 t i i s t N Y

Q iv e T w o W eeks to B eauty and Rest

IN a per iod o f sequestration o f fr o m tea d a y s to tw o w eeks, M a da m e M a y s ’ scientiho m ethod g ives y o u n ew y o u th and new

beauty .W rink les. freck les, lines a b o u t th e eyes and

relaxed tissues o f th e fa ce a s d tb ro a t are re* p laced b y a sk in o f f io e y ou th fu l texture.

< ^ e c is fr o m ou tsid e N e w Y o rk , w hile taking th e treatm en t, h a ve a ll tb e co m fo rts and lu xury o f an e legan tly app o in ted p rivate hom e.

A ll con su lta u on s a n d treatm ents are in the s tr ictest confidence.

T w o w eeks' rest and then new beauty— isn ’t it w orth w hile?

C om pute details and a booklet o n request

M A D A M E M A Y S

EKT m io r D IS T IN C T IO N

P r e v io u s ly w a v e d h a ir p r o t e c t e d n e a in s c in ju r y b y o u r N e w P r o c e s s . A b s o l u t e ly n o d a n g e r o f d i s c o lo r a t io n

CO W h i t e o r G r a y H a ir . P o s ic tv e ly n o Icink o r fr iz z -

T h e N e w E v e n in g C o i f fu r e a s w o r n b y t h e s m a r t P a r is ie n n e r e q u ir e s th e a d d i t io n o f t h e “ ‘ ‘ C h i g n o n a la G a r - c o n n e , ” f o u n d o n l y a t S c h a e ffe r ’ s. G op yrleH t Jfi24 ' T rudem A rk

S e n d f o r B o o k le t

P h o n e f o r a p p o in h n e n ti B ryon C 7 6 1 5

Am azing! but trueY o u c a n “ e r a s e ” n eed less h a ir

F rom face . ariDs and Umba in stantly .D i y app lication . O dorless. Harm leas-

W o n d crs to e o ; a round, p lo k d isk (size pow d er pu ff) leaves sk in sm o o th and clean . M o n e y b a ck guarantee, P n cc < 1 .2 5 . A t y o u r D ru g D e p t , o r B eau ty S h op o r fr o m m a n u fa ctu rer d irect, S i,3S

B E L L I N ' S

'W & n derstodn )Send f o r F ree Booklet

500 F i f t h A v e n u e , D e p t . H , N e w Y o r k

S5 0 0

f o r

1 0 0 P a c k s

fIS o n o g ra m(T raO cm arkcd atnl C opxcigbtQ d l

/IR a tc b ip ac ftBW I T H Y O U R O W N I N I T I A L S

C o lo r s o f M a t c h P a c k s : G o ld . Silver, LIgbt lilu e , B lack , B lue. Oruuge, Y e llo w , Green. P urp le, L avender.C o lo r s o f E a it la ts : G o ld . S ilver. B la ck , W b ite . S m art to r th e V a n ity Caee— Id ea l to r the H ostoss.

A C h a r m in d G i f t — P a c k o d l o a T l o ilfoil order and ehtek at once U>:

T H E C A N - D L E - L U X E S H O P(C A N D L E S O P Q U A L IT Y )

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L o r d A T e v lo r T b « M<m&Kriun H s te h C a ,n . A lU B s n & C o . SI a T O u oa B ld g ,A l f r e o O a s b i l l , L t d . S a e F re jte lse o

DISTRrBOTOR^ apj>h/ to:K a y a k d E l u k o b k , I n c . , d 48 -H M ad [sen A v e . , N , Y .


52 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A RJo.

a r t iS

DREGOLLDRESSES

FURSM A N T LE SLIN GERIE

1 5 6 , AVENUE DES CHAMPS-E LYSEES, i ; 6

PARIS


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 53

I i

ii

Bi I E X a v a n t le ga i re to u r d u p r in tem p s, lo rsq u e les r ich issim es A m erica in s

fra n ch issen t 1’ o ce a n , q u e v ien n en t-ils ch erch er sur la terre d e F ra n ce ? P o u rq u o i c e t te lo n g u e trav ersee? P o u r q u o i q u it te r leu r c o n t in e n t si n eu f, d o n t le co n fo r t

e t I’o p u le n ce d ep a ssen t d e b ien lo in ce u x d e la v ie ille E u ro p e ?

C h a q u e a n n ee ils a rriv en t, fa s d n e s p a r I’ a ttra it d ’un irresistib le a im a n t, c e “ b est in P a r is ,” p a re d e grS.ce, d e n o u v e a u te e t d e fan ta is ie . L a V ille L u m iere es t a lors la ca p ita le d e I’E leg a n ce , o u to u jo u rs p lu s n o m b re u x , m o n d a in e s e t a ch eteu rs s’ erapres-

sen t d e to u s les p o in ts d e I’U n ivers.

D ,A N S L E S R O Y A L E S dem eu res d e s m a itres d e la m o d e , Us assisten t a lors a ce sp ecta c le u n iq u e : u ne prem iere d e g ra n d e co u tu re , e t s o n t t o u t k co u p trans-

p o r te s dan s u n ro y a u m e d e feerie . N ’ es t c e p o in t u n e b a g u e tte m a g iq u e q u i a fa it ec lo re ces to ile tte s? E lie s se m b le n t n a itre e t s’cp a n o u ir s im p lem en t, co m m e des fleurs a u x ch a to y a n te s co ro lles . M a is il fa u t a v o ir p en etre d a n s les cou lisses lo in - ta in es d e la co u tu re , p o u r c o n c e v o ir I’ e ffo r t sp len d id e , la re ch erch e p assionn ee , les im m en ses sacrifices m a terie ls q u ’ex ig e la p re p a ra tio n d ’u ne co lle ct io n .

P en d a n t p lu sieu rs sem ain es, I’a c t iv ite d e la m a ison s ’ es t {Voir la suite, page 6o)

T he iltustralion hy D ria n i s used throuih the courlesy Munsiexir L u d en L elcn e


54 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R Jo.

<lte Itouxe o f m a d e le ln e vSonaef Ilie fe m p le o f " the b on (on p arisien

(b e m a d e le ln e v ion n et creaH ony* a r e m a r k e d «vi(l» h e r s ig n atu re and t h u m b p r in t , t lie y a r e e x e r u te d sv le n tlllra llj' by th e s e w e r s , w liu h ave b e e n tra in e d arcortU n g to b e r m etlkods.

n i a d e l e i n e

tite m o d e ls o f d re sse s , e o a ts . fu r s an d lin gerie r r e a te d b y m a d e le ln e

v io n n e t b a v e ** une llgn e

im p e rra b le et la grave d e la je u n e s s e ttiey a r e in im lla llie .

V i o n n e t

th e w o r k r o o m s a r e s k i l f u l l y p la n n e d , fr e n v h a n d a m e r lv a n m o d ern m e th o d s c o m b in e d a v liie»e

the b e st re su lts .

pi-or<^sslonal c la sse s fo r futiii'e s e w in g a rtists g ive te rlm ica l and

g e n e ra l Insrruvtlon .

on e m u s t s e e tb e cre a tio n s o f m a d e le ln e vl«»nnet. a v is it to the m o s t m o d e rn in sta lla tio n in th e co u tu re w o r ld Is im p o r ta n t - il is une o f th e c u rio sitie s o f p a r is .

50s a ven u e m ontai^ne ehamps-^l.vsees* pariiit

b ran ch In n ew .vork fifth avenue


f o . A P R I L 1 9 2 5 55

The elegance and distinction of Litcien Lelong’s creations assure him the first place among the "Elite de la Couture.”

L U C I E N L E L O N G16, RUE MATIGNON

(Cham ps-E lysees)

P A R I S


56

•I-

I

PHILIPPE et GASTON employ a new material with effective simplicity for one of their creations

MEYERG - C S

15. Rue de 4-Septembre P A R IS

The well-known manutac- turers of woolen materials


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5

a n u s

57

BERNARD et CIE design an attractive traveling coat in one of the

new materials

MEYER& c:s

15, Ruede 4-Septembre P A R IS

are continually manufacturing materials which inspire

new creations


58 HARPER’S BAZAR^fgr APRIL 1925

/Vadeleine i f A a t ie X e wA?OS£3-FOURRUUt.‘i3 •

Brandt16. rue de la Paix

Pans

Fourrures R ohes — F la n tea u x

Lingerie

ERMESS A D D L E R24. Feabourg Saint-Honord

P A R I SF A N C Y LEA T H ER GOODS AND BAGSD O B B S , N e w -Y o r K Sole A g e n ts fo r U S A .

W H E R Et o S H O RI N

M A R T I A L £ r A R M A N D

C O U T U R IE R S

PARIS

10, Place V en dom e 13 Rue d e la Paix

L O N D O N

19, A lbem arle Street(Piccadilly)

G o v /r ^ v 'R o b e sM ar\teaaxL ir\ geries

lO.RuedeCastigiiorver>AR.IS

C O U TURIERSOCIETE FRANCAISE

R O B E SM A N T E A U XFO U R R U R E S

LINGERIEA M A Z O N E S

242. RUE de RIVDU PARIS

Deauville ParLsPlage Nice

a r % s

oxMLa mode est inconstante et legere. II appartient seulement aux grandes Maisons d’en fixer les regies et les aspirations. Car la Mode, livree a tous, exploitee par tous, risquerait de perdre son prestige.

LOUISEBOULANGERCHAMPSELYSeES3 R U E D E B E R R I

DRESSESFURS

MANTLESLINGERIE

MARTHEPmCHART

DressesMantles

FursLingerie

2.RueVolney.Paris

D e L u x e O l o v e s a n d H o s i e r y

Paris 10 ru e A u b e r

(Op6ra)

Cannes Biatci14. Bd de la Croisctce lO.rueMa

ma deleieinev i o n n e t

r o t e s , m a n te a u x , fo u rru re s , lin g erie

50, avenue montatgne. pans 657-659. fifth ave.. new yorL

m a rth eC O o t

moaeslo . avenue

victor-emmanuel III(ctamps-^)«ces)

paHs.

MaxF u r s

P L A C E DE L A B O U R SE P A R I S


60 H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R j o r

YVONNE DAVIDSON

C O U T U R E

Clothes o f distinction fo r every occasion

2 4 . rue de M arignanChampt) ■ E lysees

PARIST e le o h . E ly s . 70-45

CHANTALd

4 - P u e f ie J fC o ft d o p i( P L A C E D E L A C O N C O R D E )

G O W N Sin Unusual

Color Schemes

and with

Distinguished Lines

RoBtS

MyRBoRV i ^ n a n

B krIs . OcativiHc

M Y R B O Rdesigns cIotLes lor tKe woman who seeks an expression of personality in

her gowns.

W H E R E T O S H O P IN

T H E V E R Y B E S T O F P A R I S(.Stti(c)

ra len tie , les g ra n d s sa lon s si a n im es d ’ord in a ire , son t p resq u e d eserts . L e s cM enles n 'y fo n t p lu s leu r s ta tion jo u r o a lie r e ; les v en d eu ses desoeu vrees n e sa v e n t a q u o i se d istra ire . U n e e tran g e to rp e u r e n v a h it la ru ch e b o u rd o n n a n te . S o m m e s n o u s d o n e d a n s le p a la is d e la B e lle a u B o is D o r m a n t? X o n , c a r d a n s la p a n ie la p lu s recu lee d u \-aste h 6 te l, il est u n e p o r te lo u jo u rs ferm ee , derriere la q u clle trav a ille fievreu sem en t, a v e c un in lassab le en th ou sia sm e, I 'an im ateu r d e s rou ages les p lu s in fim es. D e ce t te p ie ce , ja lo u s e m e n t c lo se p en d a n t la n t d e jo u rs , so rten t efin , p re te s a etre a d m irees les n ou v e lle s “ c r e a t io n s ” q u i v o n t , u ne fo is d e p lus, p or te r au lo in Ic g ra c ieu x re n o m d e la F ran ce .

P O L 'R T O U T E S les fo rm e s d e I’ a rt , il fa u t V - ' ' a u crea teu r d e m o d y e s , le “ d o n ,” c e t le etincelle d e gen ie d e p o sce dan s le ce rv ea u h u m ain e t q u 'a u cu n e s c ien ce a cq u ise n e sa u ra it rem p la cer . M a is il n e se su lB t p o in t a lu i m e m e , e t d o it e tre d e v e lo p p c p a r un la b e u r in cessa n t, p a r u n e connais-sance a p p ro fo n d ie du m etier , p a r u ne p s y c h o lo g ic subtile .

L a p erson n a lite d e s crea teu rs se re tro u v e d a n s leurs oeu tT es. II est d es i l o z a r t , d es W a g n e r , d e s B e e th o v e n d e la c o u tu re , s ilen cieu sem en t in terp retes p a r I’o rch estre in v is ib le d es a igu illes. L e s uns re ch erch en t p a r dessus to u t la p e r fe c t io n scu lpturaJe d es lin gn es, d ’autres s 'a t ta c h e n t a la SN m phonie d e s cou leu rs o u s ’ essa ien t a u n e co n sta n te orig in a lite .

V.-\ R I£ E S , so n t aussi leu rs m e th o d e s d e travail. L a p lu p a rt co m p o s e n t d ir e c te m e n t la r o b e sur le

m a n n e q u in v iv a n t , s ilh o u e tte lon g u e et fin e q u i d e nos jo u r s re p r ts e n le I’id c a l d e la b ea u te fem in in e . D i f fe re n t est le proccide d ’une celfebre (Voir la suite, page 62)

51 . R u e Fran^ois-l' P A R I S

JaneREGVYC D iT U R E S p o r t

II.R U E L A B O E T IE PARIS

TtL£pn.£LY9$U

Couture Fourrure Lingerie

9 Faubourg St. H onore (A nct. Place Vendom e)

P A R I S

M A N T E A U XL I N G E R I E

R O B E SM O O E S

S O O E T E A N O N Y M E F R A N C A ISE

II.R U E dePENTHIEVREP A R I S

TEL.ELYseES 3737-7892

NO BRANCHES


\f-or A P R I L 1 9 2 5 61

TCiV

j r 4 N P 4 T € U

- 7 , R U E S A IN T ^ F L O R E N T IN E



Une Invitation a V isiter chez Jfouis Shei'ry

— a delightful spot in hauce Paris where on e may rest, have luncheon o r tea, and enjoy, in a most appropriaresetting, Louis Sherry’s famous French candies, ice creams and pastries.— a place that means as much to the visitor in Paris as d o the fam ous Sherry restaurants and shops in N ew York.

Confiseur6 R u e d e C a s t i f i H o n e P a r is

cm Fifth Avenue and on P<2tJ( Avenue in N nuY ork

l . P l a c e \ t n d 6 m e P a r i s

D RESSE S • C O A T S -T R IC O T S L IN G E R IE .MILLINERY

A C E N T u . NEPW Y O R K M a o a m e C U S S O N 5oo . F l f r t i A v e n u e , 5m

P A R IS

W O R L D ’ S B E S T F U R S .A N D B E S T S T Y L E S

d f rue de U P a iX f P a r is

inmagdeleine d e s in ayes

coului-eAnew house

with new ideas

6,R ue de la P a ix PARIS

EU GEN IE & JULIETTE

HAUTE COUTURE

^ l y r c s i m t

theirCollection

ofSmart

S p ring M od es

20 R u e d es C apu cin es

P A R I S

W H E R E TO SHOP IN

T H E V E R Y B E S T O F P A R IS(Suite)

crea tr ice . S u r u ne g ra n d e p o u p e e d e b o is , e lle trad u it I 'e ffe t n ou v ea u — e n d e re m e n t realise d a n s sa pen see— q u i d is t in g u era la ro b e . P u is g u id e e p a r le sens d u tissu , elle co m p le te h arm on ieu sem en t le m od e le , le te rm in a n t en fin p a r les garn itures.

P e n d a n t c e t te p e r io d e d ’u n traY'ail s i fe c o n d , le c r ^ t e u r ch erch e a en tou rer d ’u n im p en etra b le m y stere ses precieuses con cep tion s .

Ma i s i l N ’E S T p a s d e ruse q u i n e s o it em p loy ee p o u r con n a ltre i I’a v a n c e les id ees q u i v o n t

re n o v e r la m od e . A il^es tra v e rsa n l les m u ra illes, des in d iscre tion s se p rod u isen t, d es su p p o s itio n s se fo rm e n t, p a r fo is b ien e l o i g n ^ d e Ja verite .

L ’a d m in istra teu r d ’u ne m a iso n ren om m ee p o u r ses rav issa n tes in n o v a d o n s c o n te e n sou r ia n t ce tte h isto ire v e r id iq u e :

P re p a ra n t u n a ccesso ire d e to ile tte , t o u t a fa it in e d it , le p r o je t fu t fau ssem en t d e v o ile . V o ic i P a r is en e q io i ! L e s com m en ta ires s ’a m p lifia n t ch a q u e jo u r d e v ie n n e n t b ie n t6 t la p lu s in vra isem b la b le d es n ou - v e lle s : II p a ra it , lu i d it -o n , q u e v o u s a llez p resen ter v o t r e p ro ch a in e co lle c t io n su r d e s m a n n eq u in s articu les , i m i u n t si p a r fa ite m e n t la n a tu re q u ’ ils pjossederont m e m e . . . ' l a resp ira tion h u m ain e ! C e tte am u san te a n e c d o te m o n tr e queU e cu rios ite passionn ee su sciten t le s m o in d res d « o u v e r t e s d e n o s g ra n d s cr& tteurs. C 'e s t q u e I'interfet d ’u ne c o r p o r a d o n , m a lh eu reu sem en t tro p e te n d u e , es t e n je u : les co p ie u rs d e m o d ^ e s .

T 'O X I G N O R E t r o p q u e la c o p ie e s t u n v o l v e r ita b le , r e p e le e t a u d a cieu x . R e p r o d u ire u n e ro b e , c ’ es,

e x p lo ite r le ta len t, c ’ e s t piU er sans ( I 'o ir la suite, page 64)

QSEPHiTOINC O U T U R I E R

is now showing his new collection

10, rue de Castiglione PARIS

G e r m a i n e

G u e r i nTHE SMARTEST LADIES' HAND BAGS TORTOISE SHELL— DHESSING CASES

243 , R u e S a in t-H o n o re P la c e V e n d 6 m e

P A R I S

P iDONGUYCouturier

Y o u w ill a lw a y s f in d s o m e - th in g n e w a n d c h a rm in g in t h e S a lon s o f D O N G U Y , to w h ich A m e r i c a n s are

co rd ia lly in v ite dP A R I S

14 , r u e d e C a s t ig l io n e

Harper’s Bazar is oo sole at all tbe leading newscealers and in all tbe tashioDoble hotels of Paris.

The MomentYou Arrive in Paris

ELDZABATH2 , rue de la Paix T elephone: Central 04-28

For a Cleansing, StimulatingLONDON Sfcin Treatment NEW YORK

374Rue S t . H o n o r e

Par is

(Near Place VendSrae)

I

II


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 63

O r ig in a l a n d s p e c ia l ly w o v e n m a te r ia ls e x c lu s iv e t o th e M a is o n G o u p y p e r m it an e f fe c t iv e in d iv id u a l i t y in th e ir c re a t io n s .

P H O T O G R A P H B Y B A R O N D E M E Y E R

G O U P Y10, R U E D E C A S T I G L I O N E

P A R I S



ROBES M A N T E A U X FO U R R U R E S

JERSEYS

PARIS I4i rucR oyale

C A N N E S 1, rue du G*d H otel

DEVAM BEZEXCLUSIVE CREATIONS

H A N D - B A G S EANCY-NOVELTIES M A M - J O N G G S

43. BOULEVARD tIALESnERBES PARIS.NCAR 5'AUGU5T1N

J a n e D u v e r n e

Couture Robes Manteaux

11, Rue Richepanse PARIS

MARIANOForTu n VG recian P la ited Dresses

G o ld P rinted V enetian G arm ents E ven ing M antles

T ea G ow ns N egligees

67. Rue Pierre-Charron Cot. Champs-Elyscu

PARIS

Private Photographic Sittings

Baron de M eyer

(L/fppointments are made a l his residence l8 , rue Vaneau, PARIS

T c f: Flcurus 36-30

W H E R E TO SHOP IN

T H E V E R Y B E S T O F P A R I S(Suite eijin)

h o n te ce tte e to n n a n te e t s i rare fa c u lte , la crea tion , c ’es t tra v estir u n e sign ature e t d e ro b e r la ju s te re co m p en se 'd ’u n e ffo r t d e v o lo n te e t d ’a rg e n t in ca lcu la b le . L es g ra n d es m a ison s s u p p o r te n t . n o n seu lem en t le c o u t d e leu rs m o d e le s ; m a is en co re p e n d a n t u n e p e r io d e m o r te , t o u t le p o id s d e leu rs fra is gen eraux.

L a lo i p o u rs u it les co p ie u rs , q u i sans cesse te n te n t d e se soustra ire S, ses rech erch es e t a ses rigueurs. G et a p p u i leg a l a p lu sieu rs fo is p ro cu re a u x m ag istra ts— la surprise a im a b le d e v o ir en trer d a n s le p r e to ire , q u e l- q u es jo i is m a n n eq u in s d e la ru e d e la P a ix . M a is n ’ es t c e p o in t to u t d ’a b o r d ^ la fe m m e si a isem en tsensib le a u n o b le se n tim e n t d e ju s tice a refuserim p ito y a b le m e n t le s re p ro d u ctio n s , e t k fle tr ir leurs auteurs?

M o in s cou teu ses il e s t v ra i, c e s ro b e s fa ite s e n serie, ne p re se n te n t p o in t les tissu s in com p a ra b les , le ch arm e sans egaJ d u m od e le .

T U L L E S N E S O N T p o in t “ n e e s ” e t a c6 te d e leurs -■-L soeu rs a r is to c ra tiq u e s e lles se m b le ro n t tou jou rs des p a rv en u es. T e ile s ces pM beien n es d u ch esses de I’E m p ire , q u i am usferent to u te s les cb u rs d ’E u r o p e p a r les r id icu les d e leu r in e ffa ca b le vu lga rite .

L e s fe m m e s a u g o u t d e iica t n e sau ra ien t s ’y trom p er . E p rises d ’a r t e t d e ra ffin em en t p o u r le u r to i le tte aussi b ien q u e p o u r la d e c o ra t io n d e leu rs d em eures, elles n ’ a c ce p te n t q u e les ch e fs d ’ o eu v res d es m a itres e t n e p o r te n t q u e la ro b e d u “ c r fe t e u r ” M a is il fa u t , to u jo u rs d a v a n ta g e , o b te n ir ce tte p r o te c t io n e lS ca ce et ch a rm a n te , p o u r q u e I’ e legan ce v e r ita b le , c o m m e la b ea u te fe m in in e d em eu re d iv in e m e n t eternelle .

2 2 Place de la Madeleine PA R 1 S

W A L L A C E DKAEGEPv

F R E N C H A N D A M E R IC A N

A D V E R T ISIN G

11 bis RUE D’A G U E S S E A U

PARIS

Exclusive Advertising Agents for

H A R P E R ’S B A Z A R in EUROPE

J E A N N E L A F F I T T E

Couture Costumes de Sports

9, Rue Richepanse PARIS

Visit the Paris Office

of

Harper’s Bazarf o r a ll s o r ts o f s h o p p in g

in fo r m a t io n .

2 , ru e d e la P a ix

B y appoin l/nent lo ih e ir M a jt s t le a King £c QOifn o f England.

W ALK IN G STICKS & UMBRELU»iS

BRIGG&SQNS33. Avenue d« TOperd, PA H 15

23« Srd am et't Street. L O N D O N

"B la n ch e

J^bouvier

C O U T U R E

M a d a m e

' M a r i e - L o u i s e ,

Manageress, presents the new collection in Dresses, Mantles, etc., for Summer

3 , ru e B o u d r e a u (Opposite the Opera)


A P R I L 1 9 2 5 65

Y V O N N E C A R E T T E

C o u T u R e

4 6 . A v e n u e M o n t a i g n e 8 *

/ F f y ^ y

Speaking of the Very Best in Paris

TH E V E R Y BEST PL A C E T O V I S I T F I R S T I S

The Paris Office o f Harpers Bazar

■pSPECIALLY if it’ s your first visit to Paris . . . for at our

Paris office you may secure all sorts o f information . . . about shops and shopping, about hotels and tours, about sights to avoid and sights to see . . . in fact about ANYTHING.

The address: i rue de la Paix

I / ' a r t r S

CHANTALa m

and how a rare talent made

u/ilfing captives of the

BUYERSA MIR-4CLE occurred in Parts this

spring. A phenomenon that appears about once in every style

generation came to pass. A new voire was raised with authority in the realm of la coiUure: a new name— a name that did not exist a twelvemonth ago —was upon the lips o f the buyers whom America sends to Paris twice a year (or the decrees o f the overlords o f fashion.

The voice and the name were those of Mile. Cbantal.

It is a story Parisian— essentially so— this sudden, swift risii^ of a star o f the fimt magnitude high in ^ firmament o f creative style— a thing that could happen only in a world artistically a ttu n ^ to appreciation of the unusual and the beautiful. In one word, the story is this;

W OMAN o f characteristic French taste, young, aristocratic, mag

netic, finds her personal fortunes ruined by the war. She is possessed of immense energy, immense personal chic, immense interest in life. Such a nature is unwilling to accept meekly the drab semi-poverty to which fate seems to have condemned her. She contemplates a career in business and turns naturally to trie thing she knows most about—clothes.

She opens a small dressmaking establishment expecting to create gowns for the select inner-circle o f the Parisian haul moiuU of which she herself is an intimate. Her friends are delighted with the genius which she instantly displays for original design, charmed with the creations that ate so individual, so strai^ely lovely, so utterly Parisian. She is designing the sort of gowns that she, the descendant of a line o f grandes dames o f fashion, would herself like to wear.

He r friends buy these creations liberally. It is a small business,

reckoned by modem Parisian standards, but it is established and she is content, asking no more.

But the world these days will beat a broader pathway to the door of her who designs a beautiful gown than of him who invents an efficient mousetrap. Paris is filled with a discerning company o f connoisseurs—-the resident commissionaires who represent the great buying dress houses o f America. These experts are continually on the watch for the new and meritorious. They are a silent race, each keeping his own counsel: for sometimes a great business stroke results from an individual discovery.

But the quick eyes o f these commissionaires, who frequent the places where smart Parisian society gathers,

began to catch a fresh and unique note—-and an engaging one withal— in the dress o f some of the most elegant o f Paris’s women. It was a note, moreover, that they could not read, skilled as they are in telling at a glance what designer has created the new toilette that comes under their observation. Each made private and discreet inquiry, and each heard a new name—

f~ 'H A N TA L ! Such was the brief history preceding the spring

“ opening” at the Maison Chantal early, in February. MUe. Chantal— It is the name she has adopted for business— expected only her clients— her personal friends— to be there. But these friends found themselves barely able to squeeze into the salons, so great was the press of commercial buyers there, each commissionaire gazing with surprise and discomfort at his competitors as each realised that his discovery was no exdusivili.

Thus it happened that the Chantal gown went to America this year—in the house’s second season— an exemplar o f the Pariaan genius for design, a new criterion of style.

I t will he necessary to add only a few words to account for this sudden success. The secret of it lies in the quality o f Mile. Chantal herself.

Hers is a heritage which endows her nature with a perfect infusion of that essentially Latin quality called mesnre— the delicate sense o f proportion— an artistic discipline expressing complete originality without eccentricity or extreme effects o f any sort.

It is a quality that reveals itself in the singing atmosphere of her salons— all light and air and springtime gmety as they are. Above all it manifests itself in her own creations, in the exquirite sense o f color shown in them, in queer, shy artistic touches, and in the infinite cate devoted to details often slighted. N o scamping and jerry-work in these modefa. It is Chantal’s way to design a gown first and then have such adornments as embroideries, buttons, and buckles, made to suit it. instead o f the easiej way of accepting what is available and allowing the producers o f accessories to circumscribe the couturifere’s art.

And when a gown eraerges from her ateliers, it comes with a finish delightful to the woman who knows what sewing is. MUe. Chantal, indeed, might be said to be bringing forth a new formula in dressmaSng. More truly, she is the apostle of a renaissance, a revival o f that mafing of genius with the inimitable French needlecraft which our hurried times were pushing out o f existence.

CHANTAL4- m e

( P L A C E D E L A C O N G O R D E )



cru

tm iM

goiF fh C S

S e l e c t e d C o a t s

M i s s E L I Z A B E T HJ36 Madison Ave.

S o c i a l

C a l e n d a r

fo r

zA I p r i l

'J p H E R E w ill be n o leason for the lover o t m usic t o suffer

th is m onth , a n d then, w ith the ending o f Lent, the round o f socia l festiv ities w ill be merrier than ever.

T E A for T W Oat the

BooLOidillicH O T E L

YO U can m a k e m a n y o f y o u r p u r c h a s e s r igh t at th e h ote l. i8 exclu sive shop s

o n t h e a r c a d e fo r m in g th e grou n d flo o r o f B ook -C ad illa c.

T h e n a de ligh tfu l tea in th e C h in o is e o r P a lm R o o m s . S itu a te d o n th e lo b b y f loor o v e r - l o o k i n g W a s h i n g t o n B ou levard . S erv ice ala carte.

M u s ic b y B o o k -C a d i l la c S y m p h o n y T r io

B O O K - C A D I L L A C H O T E L C O M P A N Y • D E T R O ITR o y C A R R U T H E R S , P ree.a em

. ■ t P P I L I .

Sunset H ill C lu b A pril F ool Party, U niversity o l Pennsylvania M ask and W ig C lu b a t O rchestra Hall.

.-IPRil. 2.D etroit Sym ph on y C oncert, Ossm Ga- brilow itch , con du ctor, F lorence Easton , M etropolitan soprano soloist, a t Orchestra Hall.

. i P X l L J .D etroit Sym ph ony C oncert, Ossip Ga- hn low itch , con du ctor, F lorence Easton . M etrop olitan soprano soloist, a t Orchestra Hall.

A P R I L J .P opular C oncert at O rchestra H -ll, V ictor K olar conducting , M adam e D jina O sw ow ska, harpist, a n d Joseph Gorner- vaolin soloist.

A P R I L 6.

Polish N ational O rchestra at Arcadia -Auditorium.

A P R I L 7 .

G rosse P ointe H u n t C lu b M u sica l R ide.

. i . P R I L 7 -

Tascha H eifetz , v iolin ist, a t O rchestra H all,

A P R I L 1 0 .

H aresfoot C lu b ot tin ivers ity o f W isconsin a t O rchestra Hall-

A P R I L I I .

Players C lub m eeting.

A P R I L 1 7 .

Easter Sunday.San Carlo O pera C om pany.P opular C oncert, V icto r K olar conducting, a t O rchestra H all.

A P R I L 1 4 -

G rosse Pointe H u n t C lu b M usica l R ide.

A P R I L I S .

N ational V audeville A ssociation Benefit a t O rchestra H all.

A P R I L i 6 .

D etroit Sym p h on y Concert, O ssip Gabril- ow itch , con d u ctor and soloist, at Orchestra HaU.

A P R I L 1 7 .

D etroit S ym p h on y C oncert, Ossip G a- brilow itch . con d u ctor a n d soloist, at O rchestra H all.

. i P R I L i S .

D a y ton W estm inster C h oir a t O rchestra Hall.

. A P R I L I f f .

U nited Singers o t D etroit.C losing P opular C on cert o f D etroit Sym phbny O ichestra , w ith V icto r K olar conducting, a t O rchestra H all.

A P R I L I I .

O rpheus C lub.G rosse P oin ts H u n t C lub M usica l R ide .

A P R I L 2 S .

G rosse P oin te H u n t C lub M usica l R ide .

g L IZ A B E T H A R D E N wishes to rem ind you o f the im

portance o f caring faithfully for your skin. T elephone for appointm ents: Cadillac 7542.

Elizabeth A rd en318 B ook Building

D E T R O IT

N E W Y O R K : 673 Fifth A venue L O N D O N : PARIS:

25 O ld B on d Street 2 rue de la P:

Sports Clothes Costume Jewelry

T H E SH O PW h ere Q uality and C ourtesy

are P aram ou n t

C ltC lLLIN E R Y

C O I I N35 E . A d am s A ve.

I. MflQNlN CUQraiil iSJvcijHf .1 f/fiwv Cliicel Chm Gfrancisco

. (_ /mporlcrs and Reiailcrs of( / e x c l u s i v e

A P P A R E L /1 «4 A C C E S S O R I E S

(imcnCTiVlissesH O L L Y W O O D

61 40 HoUyuenl 8I«1LOS ANGELES

T h e Am SofsaJo*

P A SA D E N AH o:rI M aryland

C O R O N A D OHnul Cc—onadD

S A N T A B A R BARAT h e ArllnrCMi

D E L M O N T EH ouJ P « l M eeiu

A L T H O U G H C a lifo r n ia b o a s ts an a ll -y e a r c l im a te th a t is

X A . fa r , fa r d if fe r e n t f r o m th o s e b e n ig h t e d p la c e s th a t h a v e

o n ly s n a tch e s o f g o o d w e a th e r d u r in g ce r ta in fa v o r e d sea son s ,

n e v e r th e le s s S p r in g is a p a r t ic u la r ly d e lig h t fu l t im e in th e

G o ld e n S ta te . E s p e c ia l ly as t o F a sh io n s .

M a y b e th is is b e c a u s e , l ik e P a r is a n d N e w Y o r k , o n e so m e

h o w d a sh es in t o n e w c lo th e s in s p r in g ju s t as N a t u r e h erse lf

a ssu m es n e w h a b ilim e n ts . C e r ta in ly , th is is th e se a so n o f

sea son s w h e n th e s m a r t s h o p s o f C a lifo r n ia a re a t th e ir b e s t ,

w h e n t h e y d is p la y m o s t la v is h ly th e c o s tu m e s a n d a cce sso r ie s

th a t a re th e la s t w o r d in th e n e w m o d e .

F u r s • f r o c k s - a t s s u i t s • k a t s ant

a c c e s s o r i e s -r e f le c t in g e v e r y si

p k a s e o f t k i n e w mo^re

art

n u f a/ Pait Sirgg/Sdn Franeifefi

B r o a d w a y o l M o r r i s o n P o r l lo H d , O r e .


A P R I L 1 9 2 5

t i y A ) L R j

0/

g^BANKSsBlDDipt k ' J e w c lc r a I A

SilvBrsnuths Sta iion«r»

Established 1832

Philadelphia

P O L I S H E DG I R D L E

D I A M O N D SThe most brilliant o f all diamonds

superb and appropriate for The Engagement or W e d d in g Ring

T h e D IA M O N D BOOKmailed upon request

B A IL E Y T E X T and CO LO N IAL SCRIPT

Fhe new and fashionable Engraving for Vedding Invitations and Announcem ents

samples mailed

Q N CHESTNUT or Walnut Street in Philadelphia as on

I Fifth Avenue in New York; on the rue de la Paix in Paris as in Bond Street in London, Harper’ s Bazar is recognized as the de luxe magazine of fashion and society.

l a r p e r s1 2 /- IS LONUON 50c &-fr. IS PARIS

W a r q u G T i t e127 dbulH Si^teentH Utreet

'I lladelphia

PARIS MODES

QO WNS HATS

%

P h i l a d e l p h i a S o c i a l C a l e n d a r

f o r A p r i lA P R IL 2

First o f Annual Spring Luncheons at Sedgeley Club.

A P R IL 13Easter Ball at Ritz Carlton.Dinners before the ball given by M r. Oliver Hopkinson Baird, and M r. and Mrs. Edward Hoffman, Jr.Mask and W ig Performance o f the University of Pennsylvania.Parties at the Mask and Wig.Air. and Mrs. Clarence Clark Zantzinger box party for Miss Elizabeth Farnum, debutante daughter o f Mrs. Plarry W . Farnum.Mrs. George Grant Snowden box party for Miss Marion Kendrick, daughter of M r. and Mrs. George W . Kendrick.

A PR IL 14Mask and Wig.Dr. and Mrs. Perry S. Allen box p a r ^ for Miss Edith Page Willing, daughter o f Mr. and Mrs. J. Kent Willing.

A P R IL 15Dance— M r. and Mrs. Burrows Sloan for their debutante daughter. Miss Frances Sloan.Dinner M r. and Mrs. Randolph Justice for Miss Inez Justice before Sloan dance.Mask and Wig.Mrs. Lewis .Audenried Rommel, a luncheon and matinee party for Miss Nancy Nichols Page and Miss Evelyn Raiguel Page.

A P R IL JWedding— Miss Frances Paul Mills, daughter o f M r. and Mrs. Paul Denckl Mills, and Mr. John H. W . Ingersoll, son o f M r. and Mrs. Charles Edward Ingersoll, St. M ary’s Episcopal Church, Wayne, at 4 o ’clock. Reception at Mills home, Radnor.Tea— Airs. McFadden Brinton at the Wellington.Mask and Wig.

A P R IL 17Rabbit Party— M r. and Mrs. Benjamin Chew in honor o f Miss Nancy Drayton, daughter of Mrs. William Pepper.Dance— Dr. M akom Guthrie for Miss Lee Reed Edwards.Dinner— M r. and Mrs. Norman McMulIin for Aliss Carmlta Kennedy before the dance.Mask and Wig. Mrs. George Justice a box party followed by supper at the Ritz-Carlton for Miss Inez Justice and Miss Ethel Hart Hecksch.

A P R IL 18Dance- -Mr. and Mrs. Victor Mather for Miss Katherine Kelso Stewart, Miss Katherine Churchman Snowden and Miss Loulie G . Thomson. Dinner— M r. and Mrs. S. Griswold Fiagg 3 rd for Miss Loulie Thomson. Flask and Wig. Parties.Mr. and Mrs. George W. B. Roberts for Miss Edith L. Roberts.M r. and Mrs. Thomas R. Tunis for Miss Lydia Wister Tunis.M r. and Mrs. John M . Gates for Miss Roberta Dearden.

A P R IL 20Playhouse Dance.Hasty Pudding Club at Bellevue-Stratford.Mr. and Mrs. Theodore Voorhees will entertain at Hasty Pudding for Miss Nancy Drayton.

A P R IL 20 to 25 inclusiveMask and Wig every night and Wednesday and Saturday matinees.

A P R IL 21Large Bridge Party and Fashion Show— Benefit Girl Scout Building Fund. Held at Benjamin Franklin Hotel, afternoon and evening.

paris to pliilaJelpliia

b if w atf o f

CnrafnnfStmt phlla rdphla

S h .o fi 'f in g m

Phi ade phiaa 'Real Pleasure

Shops to the East— Shops to the West— and the Bdleinae- Stratford Hotel right in the center of Philadelphia’ s finest shopping section.The convenience ot this hotel makes shopping a pleasure without fatigue.

*Tke

B E L L E V U ES T R A T F O R D

Broad and W aln u t Streets

r SU ITSCOATSGOWNS

FURS

(^tmfSppawL

1 7 1 4 ^^^InutStreetPHILADELPHIA

g L I Z A B E T H A R D E N a n nounces char she is opening

a Salon in Philadelphia to meet the needs o f her distinguished clientele in this city. Telephone for appointments.

%

Elizabeth A rden133 South 18th Street

Phone RittenhoiiBO 926 6

PHILADELPHIA

N E W Y O R K ; 673 Fifch A venue L O N D O N : PARIS:

25 O ld B on d Street 2 rue de la Pajjc


69

E a rly Spring Fashions NumberA v i s

rriO U S les tnodiles reprodiiils dans noire magazine soot J- la propriele de leurs crSaieiirs. Les reproductions, imitations ou conlrefaQons mime partielles peuvent tonjours enlrainer conire Ictirs auteurs des poursuites de la part des crSaieurs et de I'Associalion des Arts Plastiqncs et Appliqnis en France et A I’Elrangcr.

T h e D o o r s H a v e O p e m e d !

ONCE again Paris has waited breathless days, once again she lias lived her ecstatic moment and, once again, she

is settling back to the ordinary interests of life. The Paris Openings are over! What did tliey reveal? W hat is new? What are the colors? Tlie lines? The details? The questions are as endless as tliey are eternal. Yet, once again, Harper’s Bazar has seen to it that they are answered— answered correctly for you, dear reader.

N o ’ H E A D L I M E ’ ’ M o d e s

T h o s e who are in search of sensational changes will be disappointed. There are, indeed, two principal phases

of the spring models, both qualified b y “ m ote” — mote color and more fulness. But we are trespassing— in fact, we axe quoting— Marjorie Howard’s article “ The M ode of 1925 ,” and if you wish to know how very informative it is, ponder its adroit subtitle, “ Summarized from Ten Thousand Examples.” On page seventy-one.

A T r i p W i t h B a r o n ' d e M e y e e

V EXED, perhaps, by our innuendoes that Baron de Meyer’s life is one constant round of doing what he

most wants to do, and that is, selecting lovely inodes and photographing them on lovely ladies, he describes the ardor of the round— and incidentally, the best of the new creations— on page ninety-eight. Particularly charming is that photograph of the Gertrude Lawrence who not so very long ago sang the “ Limahouse Blues” in Chariot’s beloved Revue. But why waste your time with these slight introductory remarks when Paris and spring and new fashions what an irresistible combination!— await you on every page of tliis Harper’s Bazar?

Cover by Ert6— “ La Reverie”“ The Shimmer of Satin.” Frontispiece by Etienne B rian .......................................... 7°“ The M ode o f 19 2 5 ,” Summarized from the Paris Openings, by M arjorie Howard

Drawn by M . ................................................................................. 7^Drawn by Reynaldo L u za ......................................7 2 , 73i 74, 75, 77, 7°, 79Drawn by A . SoutiS..................................... ' 80 , 8 1 , 8 2 ,8 3

Contrasts— Society at W hite Sulphur Springs and New Y ork Night ClubsDrawn by John ............................................................................... 4, S

Snapshots of Smart People at P la y ..........................................................................86, 8 7 , 88 , 89

“ The Savage,” A Story of Americans in France, b y Josephine Daskam BaconIllustrated by R. F . Schobelits........................................................................ 9°, 9i

Ert6 Brings Us Some Distinguished Designs....................................................... 9 2 , 93, 94, 95Baron de M eyer Reviews the M ode

Photographs by Baron de M eyer ................................. 9 6 , 97, ^®3, ^°SDrawings by Lion Benigni 9^, 99, 10 ®,

“ Fate Keeps On Happening,” The Diary of a Traveling Professional Lady, by Anita Loos

Slides by Ralph Barton .................................................................................“ The Last of the Virgins,” Closing a BrOliant Series of M ystery Stones, by

E. Phillips OppenheimIllustrated by Marshall ....................................................................

Thus M ust the Riding-Habit Be Cut, by M arie LyonsDrawn by Bernard B. D c .... .........................................................................Drawn by Grace H ari..............................................................................................^^7

“ The Great Pandolfo,” Continuing a New Rom antic Novel, by William J. Locke Illustrated by Hetvry Raleigh.............................................................

New Motor-cars for SpringDrawings by Samuel Davis Otis.......................................................

Last Minute Sketches from P aris...........................................................................Details from the Paris Openings..............................................................................The Paris Openings....................................................................... o,-“ The Secret Prisoner,” A Short Story by M ane Beynon R a y i74, i7t>, i7 » , i 6o“ The House New Y ork Built,” by Helen Bullitt L ow ry ...................................... 1 8 2 , 1 S4 ,“ A Theatrical Perspective,” by Percy H am m ond.......................... ...............18 8 , 19 0 , 19 2 , i94“ A Modern Follower of an Ancient Craft,” by Lida Rose M cC abe............................... i9 °Smart New Shoes.......................................................................................................................... 202“ T h eL oss,” A Short Story by Holloway H orn ............................................................

N U M B E R

. 1 1 8 , 1 1 9

1 2 0 , 1 2 1

1 2 2 , 1 2 3

1 2 4

N E X T M O N T H : T H E T R A V E L

Correct Costum es fo r A nyth ing from a W eek-end T rip to a W orld ’s-end Journey

H arper’s Bazar is published m onth ly vice-president. Joseph A , M oore , treasurer

s u b s c r ip t io n h a s e x p ir e d i t is b e s t t o re n e w i t a t o n c e , v s m g t h e b la n k e n c lo M ,! W h e n c n a n g ^ ^ l o a j A y th e In te r n a t io n a l M a g a z in e C o m p a n y , ,I n c . (H a r p e r » B a za r)firs t c o p y t o - - V a ? ^ e r ' s ^ § ? 4 f i s l u t p 'J c r e c T S 'b y ^ ^ S y r fg & t l ^ d ' ^ S f h t t S a T ^ r s ? L t ' S f r ^ S & th e r w h o lly o r in p a r t w it h o u t p e rm iss io n .


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 571

A

J V f ) MlA

J i I 9 :2 1 !)

s , rue de la Paix, Paris.

J UST twenty-five years ago this month, Paris irvau- guratcd a universal exliibition. I t was the triumph of the “ art nouveau,” that meandering school of

lines which, tortured beyond their strength, broke suddenly into a perspiration of blossoms and butterflies, realistically inlaid with nacre and colored glass. Filing past the displays in the Grand and Petit Palais, built for the purpose and busily displaying things ever since, were ladies in clothes which we now recognize as ugly, over- trimmed, and footless— footless in a literal sense to judge by the engravings in the volume of “ Art et la Mode,” kindly lent me for these researches, and in which I have vainly sought the slightest indication of a toe. Skirts spread themselves like morning-glories from swelling hips, below “ normal” waists that could be spanned in

die hands. Bodices were covered with what Horace Walpole called “ expensive balconies and other excrescences.” Huge salads of chiffon, feathers, and flowers were poised on nebulse of hair and precariously secured thereto with twelve-inch hatpins, endangering the public \nsion, and heartily and vainly condemned in the public prints. Y et these ladies were immensely admired, for Dame Fashion’s motto is, “ Whatever is, is right,” and the majority of her followers are always eager to agree with her.

Now here we arc getting ready to visit the present exhibition of Arts Deeoratifs, and feeling as sartorially superior to our predecessors of iQoo, as we are sure that our “ modern art” is supwior to tlieir “ art nouveau.” W e are quite convinced that one has nothing to do with the otlior; yet, where else did we get these flounces, plaited, gathered, or cut circular, at the hems of our skirts? Whence came the skirt cut in sections which gives so novel a look to our “ little frocks” ? And do you realize that the bolero, revived by Premct as shown on page seventy- eight, b y Patou and Bernard, as a feature of the season, was an essential decoration of the majority of costumes of that fussy time?They rdso were interested in an attempted revival of the Empire style; they also reveled in chiffon scarfs with evening dress, even though they anchored them firmly to one shoulder with a large and fussy chou.

■ , v

The nineteenth century had been a period of fluctuation in fashions; they stuffed themselves out and pinched themselves in, and managed to be botli ugly and inconvenient most of the time. If I were to risk a prophecy, I should say that there would be far less change in the coining quarter century than there lias been in the last. Standardization is undoubtedly going on. Daytime clothes, at least, are approaching

crystallization point, as men’s have done already. They will play pendulum for a while, vacillate between the pictorial and the practical, as men tried for a time to hold on to pre-Napoleonic vividness, wearing blue coats and brass buttons well into the new century, though utilitarian drabness soon became too much for them.

N o such dismal prospect confronts the women; but there is no more room for furbelows in an air-taxi than in the ordinary variety, and the week-enders of 1950 will have as much need of frocks that fold into a suit-case as we have. Terrific revolutions in dress are no longer feasible; but minor changes we shall have

.5 always with us. Waist-lines will continueto gambol sweetly from knees to chests; collars will tun up to the ears and down

again; sleeves will shorten and lengtlien, shrink and swell; skirts wiU n p and descend as inevitably, if not as regularly, as the sun. The mode, m short, will have its ups and downs, with comparatively little change sideways, for it is unthinkable that enlightened ideals of health and

exercise should ever again permit us more than a moderate covering of our bones. And each time they happen, these changes will be praised as most significant, and a great improvement.

And now, what is new in the fashions to wliich this year of grace will give its name? Those who looked for “ headline” modes are doomed to disap- {Conlinwd on page 80)

■ - X

i ; .i



A new tendency toward just a thread of drapery on evening gowns is well illustrated by this ■white and silver lame gowti beaded with silver, with a scarf drapery o f while chiffon.

The drapery of the gown itself is extremely smart and new, and this gown o f royal blue and silver lace, beaded with crystal, is an excellent example o f this new effective mode.

IU C IE N L E L O N G ’S C O L L E C T IO N . A rich co lleclio ii o f w hich the features are the sports costumes, w ith special adaptation o f the ju p e culptte, and the evening

J dresses. T h e m otto o f the house is, “ T h e prettiest silhouette is that which follow s faith fu lly the natural lines o f the b o d y .” Freedom o f m ovem ent is obta ined not b y godets o r circular form s, b u t b y clever cutting, or b y the use o f w ide inverted or b ox plaits. M orn ing dress; neat, practical, influenced b y sports clothes. A fternoon dress; sim ple in line and w ithout m u ch trim m ing, b u t alw ays com pleted b y its coat. E ven ing dress: v ery rich, and usually beaded, jew eled, o r em broidered, b u t n ot the beaded chemise w hich has becom e m onotonous. T h e beading is effectively disposed, and there is a tendency tow ard the draped m od el for the im portant evening dresses. M any are accom panied b y m agnificent w raps o f the m ost brilliant flow ery lames.


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 73

Emhroidcry and beads Imvc taken on entirely new character. The kea.vy beaded tube frock is now nianotonous. Vivid flowers embroidered in Czechoslovak colors in fine paillettes.

A new mood distinguishes the house of Dceuillel. Vivid flower embroidery of the Czecho-Slovak type is used for straight-line evening gowns like this, that deviate from the chemise frock.

DC E U ILLE T’S C O L L E C T IO N . T h is is a coEection in w hich there are quantities^ of new detaEs, and, at the sam e tim e— m uch rarer— a new idea in line. T h is new line is used in frEly frocks under plain coats, the friEs gathered to a point in fron t, r a a l^ g ,

as it were, a great X . T h e m aterial itself is w orked m countless w a ^ ; m u ch cu t w ork and en- crustatiou, stitched bands, fine checks form ed b y silk stitching in th e s ^ e co lor as the m aterial, et cetera. M a n y ensem bles in pastel colors, kasha coats, and print or p lam crepe frocks in rose, pink-m auve, pale green, pastel blue, flax blue, e t cetera. M o s t m odels, w it i the exception o f tw eed sports tlungs, flare low in the skirts, b y means o f godets or cuts. A lavish use o f cir6 m aterials, especiaEy chiffon printed and plain, reem broidered wit bead flowers, or w ith colored paillettes. T h e w hite frock sketched is an exam ple. A com plication introduced in the beaded evening frock to get it aw ay from the chemise.


H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R74

r >

A "lady's gown." and very lovely il is. loo. o f the new reversible crtpe jersey in gray. The dull side of the fabric is used for the tunic. {Below) Thinnest black and white chiffon velvet is used for this "robe d crilc.” fiat in back.

Mile. Madeleine, at Drecoll, wishes lo return lo the more formal evening gown. This golden gown is given a peacock-like movement by its full flounce and train.

D R E C O L L 'S c o l l e c t i o n , a collection o f ideas, first o f all. Beginning w ith tailleurs, com pleted b y od d w aistcoats and collars, originality ran righ t through it, A new sleeve w as used a great deal, w ith a large square lower portion som ething like a

L ou is X V . cuff. D ozens of odd lingerie details and novel scarfs T h e trated is typ ica l o f the graceful feminine lines for this type, W aist-lines are still low , if they exist a t all and the flare is low, except w ith the neiv sUhouette, which has a sort of princess line spreading to a rea lly w ide skirt, especially a t the sides. T h is w as shown m on ly a m o d d • A note running through the collection w as the accentuation o f the bust-line through som e d e t a i .

M.


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 575

Narrovjcoat lines— very new. Fabric of steel paillellcs embroidered in coral and black. Black satin slip. Black and silver bow.

W O R T H ’ S C O L L E C T IO N - W orth shows everj'th ing this year, including bathing suits. H is collection contains nearly 4 5 ® models. Interesting p oints in it a rc the use of m auves, plum color, and th e new greens,

including b illiard green. T h ere are m ore flared than stra igh t models, the flare alw ays low . Som e m odels experim ented w ith the norm al w aist-line, b u t more suppressed it. o r p laced it a t th e hips. M a n y ensem bles showed the new idea of tailored s ilk coat, and soft, light frocks in crepe d e Chine or chiffon w ith much disguised fulness. S till h ints o f the D irectoire period. L o ts o f lingerie collars.

(rifiOT'c) Silver and rose lame, lined with orange-rose Georgette crSpc. Huge gathered sleeves of crystal and rose and silver. Collar and cuffs of ermine. {Below) Old gold lame in geometric design. Plaited collar and beige (ox border.



This gown caused great excitement al the Chanel opening, first, because it was of bright green Georgette crlpe, and then, because the fringe was o f green rice grains.

C H A N E L C O L L E C T IO N . T h e C hanel collection, as usual, is ju st w hat one w ants to w ear, though there are few “ headlines” in it. T h e sports things, this year, h ave straight blouses o f fine R o d ier jersey kasha

edged w ith the m ateria l o f the skirts, a ll o f which h a ve som e deep p la its for w idth. T h e ensem bles h a ve coats w ith soft flare, o ften the entire coat being cut in sections, lined w ith delightful sm all p atterned prints, o f w hich the so ft frocks are m ade. T h ere are soft light brow ns and a great deal o f dark b lue, sometimes com bined w ith d ark red. Som e n a v y m odels are beaded w ith steel beads. V ery novel are the coats trim m ed w ith m asses o f coq feathers. M a n y short square- cornered coats, som etim es of printed crgpes w ith frocks of p lain crepe.


j o r A P R I L 1 9 2 577

L E N I E F

Flowers, embroidered solidly on white and shading from dark to pale rose with green leaves, distinct and overlapping each other, are an extraordinary new ornament.

IE N IE F ’S C O L L E C T IO N . T h e m ost exciting gow n in the collection is sketched here. I t is the season’s newest em broidery. O ther new notes in the collec

tion, w hich as a w hole is restrained in b o th line and decoration, arc the sports costum es, w ith blouses like sleeveless jackets in brigh t colors and pla ited w hite skirts; ensembles of tailored coats, o ften in th e new silks such as surah, and softly full dresses; a series o f m odels w ith tunic tops and Chinese inspirations b o th o f line and em broidery; m elange o f at least tw o colors, often v ery striking ones, in on e m od el; thin coats or capes o f G eorgette and chiffon over em broidered or figured gow ns; m uch dark red and com binations o f red and blue.

M O L Y N E U X 'S C O L L E C T IO N . M olyn eu x reverses the usual procedure o f straight lines for m orning, and w ider ones for evening. A lm ost

all his daytim e m o d e b w iden at the hem s in various w ays while m ost o f his evening gow ns are straight slips, the low er part v ery rich ly decorated, and the tops perfectly plain. Quantities o f ensembles, m any o f them in light w oolen materials, kasha, M eyer ’s frisca, o r R od ier ’s crep ey reps, and in rose beige and dead leaf colors. A ll have som e flare to the coats, w ith sim ple frocks slightly flaring a t th e hem , or w ith varevse b louses and plaited skirts. M an y m odels w ith trim m ings on th e low er skirt m ade o f ribbons cut in the m aterial itself. M a n y “ ta b ” skirts and godets. Lingerie details on sim ple frocks.

For this evening gown a new fabric is used— o very dark blue cirS crSpe de Chine, cut in a slip, with the lower part embroidered like a Spanish shawl in dull red and beige.

M O L y N Z V X


78 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A Rf o r

Several houses have tried the bolero idea, as well as ike chemisette. This model has both. The fabric is beige colored light-weight woolen.

Street frocks to be worn without coats and made to resemble coats are found in several of the Paris collections. This one is o f plain tailored light-weight English wool plaid in gray, with a coat-front lined with printed crepe in rose, white, and gray. There is a chemisette o f white handkerchief linen that completes the frock.

PR E M E T ’S C O L L E C T IO N . A collection in which sports clothes and the “ little fro ck ” for street and daytim e wear predominate.

C harlotte has m ade herself mistress o f this type, and her nam e “ L a G arjonne ” is now used to describe the w hole species. N oticeable in this year’s version are the bolero fronts, the coa t fronts w ith plain backs, the com bination o f light woolen materials, w ith printed crfipes, and the great interest in chemisettes and lingerie neckwear.

Chemisettes now appear with interesting frequency. Brown rep, piped with dark brown, with the immaculate little chemisette o f white piqui.

oifririrfeS

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lic0C'

afi

en

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sC


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 379

Another jabot frock, o f black crtpe marocain, with finely plaited white chiffon jabot. This frock is warn under a coat o f black surah silk, with brown fu r collar and cuffs.

BE E R ’ S C O L L E C T I O N .

T h e new fulness is well illustrated in this collection,

of which even the sim ple morning frocks show the new flare. An interesting rev iva l o f the frock all in sections, widening tow ard the feet, is illustrated on this page. Some of these frocks h ave a sort of circular frill a t the hem , sometimes set only in the back. M an y lingerie details, charm ing little chemisettes, cravettes, etc. A few of the models show a sort o f “ peacock” silhouette, the flare being arranged on a line that m ounts in front, with som ething like the effect o f a peacock’s tail. A fternoon ensembles h ave flaring coats over simple frocks, w ith softening touches of w hite, and there are several suitable for w edding gowns. G littery effects are liked.

i-V-

f i

>y

A n interesting frock o f dark green silk alpaca, cut in distinct sections from shoulder to horn. The silhouette has the new morning-glory flare, that has found a place in the mode now. This is a frock becoming to m any types o f figure, since the sections permit o f special adjustment and fitting. The collar and cuffs are o f lace and embroidery with fimvers.



PARIS IS PUTTING JABOTS ON SOME

OF ITS NEW

SPRING TAILORED COSTUMES

M A R T I A Le l

A R M A N D

The jabot has returned to be new and smart. This costume docs two new things: shows the use o f lingerie for a jabot, and the revival of the cape. O f blue surah and black satin.

With this ensemble of beige covert cloth is worn a little white satin jacket instead o f a blouse. This jacket-blouse is in many collections. The covert cloth coat is tritnnied with stitching.

M A R T I A LI I

A R M A N D

M A R T I A Le l

A R M A N D

Skirls and coats that do not match but harmonize are smart for the spring tailleur. The coal is brown kasha cloth worn above a skirt of checked Rodier kasha in brown and beige.

Lingerie neck-wear, particularly the jabot, is a new and very smart mode in Paris now. This costume of hunter’s green ottoman has the coat cut like the short tailored jacket this season.

pointment. Those who predicted a reasonable development along the old lines are congratulating themselves on their perspicacity. There are two principal new phases of the spring models, and both of them are qualified b y “ more” — more color and more fulness.

M o r e C o l o r

'T ^ O begin at the beginning, black is no longer the 9- only smart wear; and having said this, I find

that I can hardly get quickly enough to the modifying statement that black is still smart. D o not expect it to go out like a candle in a draft, though there is far less o f it in the collections, and here and there we find a woman who begins to say that she thinks “ they” are getting tired of it. The dark blues, navy and crow blue, are being tried again as a substitute; green, conscious of its success this winter, continues its bid for favor; many browns

appear, particularly the light “ eatable” ones (cinnamon, caramel, ginger, burned bread); we sec the “ violines,” an expression which means “ purplish” and has nothing to do with stringed instruments; beige is nearly as popular as it was last season; the smoke grays make a tentative appearance— ah these are used as black was invariably used last season. Wherever clear color thinks it has the sliglitest chance of acceptance, there it is found— in bright edges, lines, and pipings on the costumes that were so chastely beige last summer; in linings; in the soft short frocks or long blouses which complete ensembles; in blocks and masses for sports and country wear, green, yellow, mauve, rose, and blue. There is a cleat light blue cahed bleu tin after the flax flower, which at Patou’s showing to the press was received with cheers from the male portion of the audience whenever a mannequin appeared in it.

M any of the designers display a real interest in ted, ail the way from sealing-wax to wine color; a


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 581

COSTUMES FROM TW O PARIS WOMEN

DESIGNERS WHO STUDY

THE NEEDS OF THE D A Y

Y V O N N E D A V I D S O N

Yvonne Davidson has invented this coslmne called the “ six piece.’ ’ A lovely thing of black, coral, and while Georgette. Each layer of the triple coat may also be worn separately.

The double blouse of the “ six piece, ’ ’ made of while Georgette crlpe over coral and worn with a black Georgette skirt, is shown here. Mrs. Davidson makes a specialty of these.

This frock of gray striped toile de soie, with tiny puffed sleeves and a plaited section in front for free movement, is wont under the gray 6ponge coat that is shown at the right.

(Right) Madame Yteb, who plays golf herself, designed this golf etisemble of gray cotton (ponge to blouse at tke hips to allow for one’s swing. The coat is edged with the frock fabric.

success at Chanel's has a dark blue coat and a Bordeaux tunic- Green, too, runs the gamut from Nile to myrtle. Mauve makes a surprising d^but in tailored modes and fabrics. In evening dress, if white, frequently sparkling witli silver and crystal, retains the palm of popularity, rose, red, and greeiC find themselves well represented, while blue refuses to be ignored. Lanvin, for example, who loved the combination of rose and silver last year, oflers us silver and turquoise instead tliis season. Patou gives us rainbow dresses, which he calls a triumph of dyeing, and which he further embellishes with perfect firmaments of diamond embroidery.

The question of straight lines or full lines is rather like a tug of war, now pulled to one side and now to the other. The last collections signaled “ more fulness” to a waiting world, only to see the straight silhouette gain appreciably in mid-season fashions. These new summer collections stress fulness again, and so it goes. Type of model and

selection of material play the most important r61e in the settling of this question, and yet there is plenty of room for individual interpretation. Some houses want narrow lines for daytime and fuller ones for night; others, like Molyneux, take the opposite stand— everything widened toward the feet for daytime, and evening frocks as much like decorated pencil-cases as ever. Nobody, thank goodness, wants to hamper our stride, and even the most \’ertical silhouette leaves us room to put one foot well before the other. The blessed comfort of the sports influence has affected all daytime dress to the extent of a reasonable freedom.

M o k e F u l n e s s

SOM E of the thin material models, of chiffon and the like, must gladden the heart of the weaver, for

they conceal a vast quantity of stuff. Even evening wraps, which seemed quite determined to be as

narrow as a kasha coal, are indulging in a certain voluminousness, as the two from \\ orth on page seventy-five well prove. D o not be misled into thinking that we are going to ape a bouffant mode. M'ith the usual exception of certain specialists, like Lanvin, in the robe de style, tlie designers would have us wear our fulness with a difference. Like Mrs. Wilfer’s under-petticoat, we can’t see it, but we know it’s there.

There is a certain sort o f “ morning-glory silhouette, as exploited b y Patou in chiffon, and by Beer in the little green frock on page seventy-mne, which is fairly irresistible. A slender, supple lotse looks fragile as a lily stalk in contrast to tlie corolla of the skirt; but— a terrible but— this is going to involve us again in the continuous struggle for an even hem-line. Do you remember bow half-made frocks were hung up for days so that the natural “ give” o f the fabric should exhaust itself before the hem was run? Now that the official place of the



I r i ' i

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I

THE SIMPLE SPORTS MODE

IS THE BASIC IDEA FOR V A R Y IN G

PARIS COSTUMES

G E O R G E T T E

Striped taffeta plays a definite part in the new mode; several houses have used it in clever ways similar lo this. The blouse has horizontal stripes, while the skirt is cut in ribbon-like tabs that are extremely effective. The proportion between the long-waisted blouse and skirt is unusually good on this {rock.

A s a blouse, this costume uses a long sweater o f old rose and beige tricot, banded with old rose cripe. The skirl has Ike new plaiting, pressed in zigzags. This new plaiting used in different patterns is much used by Paris houses. One of those “ in between” sports and purely feminine frocks.

A n extremely interesting and important note is that this season the tailored frock and mannish coat have replaced last season's skirt and blouse and coat. A ll English fabric of rather light broivn, with a chemisette of washaile white satin and green suede hell with brown polished wood buckle.

hem is half-way between the ankle and knee, an even skirt-line will be still more essential; and that’s a bore.

W e don’ t need to go in for this silhouette, prettv as it is, unless we like; there ate a dozen others, as these pages will prove, and the new mode is all for a free held and no favor. This new fulness is really part of the campaign against the persistent simplicity which experts fear will kill crea- ative ability. I don’ t think they need be afraid, for the hand of the expert is discernible in tlie simplest model; and, as in the other arts, the simpler the theme, the greater need for perfection in the composition, lest it become banal. When the

mode complicates itself, it leads inevitably to tampering with natural body lines, and a specter of steel and whalebone rises before our mind’s eye— the real Simon-pure corset in all its terrible rigidity, from whose tyranny we so hardly escaped after a century of compression. This leads us straight to the third new phase of the summer mode, the raising of the waist-line.

T h e ' N o r m a l ’ W a i s t - l i n e

H EAR an awful lot about the “ normal” ’ r waist, especially since Jean Patou gave the

hip-line only a few months to live. Just what is a

normal waist-line? Is it an imaginary line, like the equator, running round the center of the body; is it between the hip and the knee; or is it just under the bust, as it was for centuries, all through the mystery that was Egypt, the glory that was Greece, and the grandeur that was Rome? One thing is certain, and that is that the placing of the waist-line in our outer garments is entirely dependent on what we wear underneath them.

Twenty-five years ago in the days of the “ straight front,” our waists, unnatural as they were, appeared at their “ natural” place. The corset straightened and lengthened itself out into the semblance of a tree-trunk, and our waists ran up obediently above


f o A P R I L 1 9 2 583

B E R N A R D e l C I E

There is a decidedly new flare in the newest spring iop-coals, a flare ever so slight, but slUl to be sensed definitely— toward the hem. This redingote costume of rather dark ‘ ‘ bots de rose" color is o f Rodier kasha zibeline. The frock is made of "bms de rose" kasha cloth, checked with a brown Une.

Two views are shown of this frock, because the front and back are of such very different character. I l is o f fancy rep, striped with coral, and mixed coral and white. The blouse is of heavy white linen, bordered with washable white tulle. The back has an inverted box-plait and a nacre buckle.

TAILORED ENSEMBLES

AN D SIMPLE TAILORED FROCKS

PARIS N OW W EARS

P H I L I P P E e l G A S T O N

the normal line. Then came the war-utUitarianism, practicality, hard work— you remember how serious and laborious life was. Corsets went into tlie discard, in France, with much more useless lumber. Down came the waist, immediately, to its normal place, and in came the bag tied in the middle called the robe chemise, vituperated for its persistent influence ever since.

W ar over, social life resumed— in comes Hie short clastic belt, confining the hips only, and leaving the torse quite free; and down goes the waistline to the top of the hip, where it still remains m the majority of cases. Sometimes it has faUen far below, between liip and knee, and then we have had

an unfortunately legless appearance. An attempt to push it up to the bust failed because it was at once exaggerated into fancy dress. The suppressing of it altogether had a great success, a measure of which it still enjoys.

All these changes, you see, had their base in some sort of reason. Some people think that the present attempt to put the waist at its natural place is based on no reason at all, but is purely arbitrary. One thing seems sure, and that is that a normal waist means either much more of a corset than we wear at present, or none at all. I have been gravely assured, “ You will be wearing a long, boned corset m six months,” and as gravely, “ Woman’s participa

tion in sports will never allow her to return to the long corset.” Just one thing is cerUin— untU next .August at least you m ay put your waist-line where you please, you may leave it off altogether without fear and without reproach; but, when you have your new gowns made, you will probably say, as I said the other day, “ D on ’t you think we might put the belt a trifle higher?” That’s the insidious thing about a waist-line— you yourself don’ t know where to have it.

.And now please let me be a ca ta lo^ e of novelties for a few paragraphs, taking the different t^ e s o f the mode in detail— morning, sports,-afternoon, and evening. In {Continued on page 16 2)



W H I T E S U L P H U R S P R I N G S

SPRING IN

THIE MOUNTAINS

“ I ' H A V E traveled everyw here,” sa id our groom , ‘ "o v er A there' and everyw here, hut I alw ays com e back to V ir

g in ia ; it’ s tke gardenest spot in the w orld .” I n the sp rin g there is nothing to com pare w itk the trails that lead fa r into tke

m ounta ins fr o m the estates that surrou n d the G reenbrier at W h ite S u lphu r S prings or the H om estead over tke m ountain .


Drawinss &y John LaCaiiaC L U B B O R G O

\ T 0 T sin ce the war has the socia l season both in the m etropolitan Y centers and in the South been o f su ck brilliance. N ow , at the end

o f the season , those w ho w intered in the South are returning bronzed,‘ ‘res ted ," and w ell stocked with am using gossip to meet their fr ien d s whow intered in the N orth. A s a consequence the exotic night clubs and the smart restaurants are en joy in g a lu xu riou s and profitable “ afterglow season.

THE

OF THE



MRS. W ILLIAM RANDOLPH HEARST AN D PRINCE LOTFALLOH

THE A R A B IA N MINISTER TO ROME


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 87

Left to right arc Borland Dyer. Christopher Dumphy. Maurice Folio of Switzerland, Marjorie Oelrichs, and Prince Lockotoicz. Standingin tke center. A . J. Drexel Biddle, Jr. and Mrs. M aijorie de Loosey Oelrichs.

The Misses Consitelo and Muriel Vanderbilt.



M rs. IVilliam M ay Wright and her butler uf an evening. Though perhaps better known as a violinist, Jascha Heifetz served his brief tenn with dignity.

X i m e W a

m l y

P .

e m S n a p s l k o i s L i i k e T k '

i k e B a J j[ a s i ; e o i f

e S o c i a l l y I m p o n f c a m i

Prince Loifalloh, the Arabian Minister to Rome, M r. Alexander Moore, M rs. Edward Kelly, M rs. N . Went, and M rs. Henry Kelly, Jr.


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 589

Madame Paul Rodier and Paul Rodicr o f Paris and Hiram Mallinson. Monsieur Rodicr holds a unique position in the esleem of the couturiers of Paris.

isi Inifcernatioiial Im.porta.nce as a Xriuily I]tt<licative Faskion. Spectacle

M r .A .J . Drexel Biddle, Jr., and M r. John Pillsbury.

M rs. Flo Ziegfeld and Patricia Ziegfeld.

Left to right, at a beach luncheon party, are M iss Blanche Strebeigh, M rs. D ’Aigle Munds, and M iss M ay O'Gorman.

M iss M ary Brown Warburton.



h:

^ D e g u i l i n g S to ry o f A m e r i c a n s in F r a n c e 1 h a t IF i l l Su rp r is e You

B y J o s e p h i n e D a s k a m B a c o n

I M AG IN E,” said Dolf, slowly, “ whal it must be to live with three Fragonards— live witli them!”

He put down his tea-cup with a luxurious sigh and leaned back on what be often referred to as the third most beautiful chair in France. The Countess de Flournay smiled at him her crooked enigmatic Httle smile, and moved her pale, long hand vaguely in the direction of the wonderful painted panels, where shepherdesses bloomed in deliciously faded tints and decorative courtiers bowed to them among the trees and fountains.

“ Y « , ” she answered in her beautiful English (the one thing of which she was observablyproud), “ yes, but you see, my friend, one becomes accustomed to the Fragonards, when one has lived a hundred and fifty years with them! One rather forgets them. I like my DSgas better.”

She smiled again, toward the amusing laundry women who leaned down from their frame, pressing, OTth extraordinary draftsmansliip, upon their irons.

“ D^gas— of course,” DoH murmured. “ But then, you have everytliing, M aanie. It is hard to choose.”

He never called Madame de Flournay b y her Christian name without a little thrill, though he had been doing it for years, after five years of friendship. I t was an innocent snobbishness, tliat thrill, and he was honestly prouder of the fact that it had taken five years to arrive at it than of the privilege itself. The slowness with which such intimacies were accomplished over here delighted him.

“ W e should have been slapping each other on the back in a couple of weeks, probably, in Am erica!” he mused, and sighed again, comfortably. N ot that he had ever seen a countess whose husband’s ancestor had fought at Ivry receive a siap on the back, nor, in fact, had he ever witnessed such a jovial attention bestowed on any women of his acquaintance, in any country; but the idea pleased him, and

I l l u s t r a t e d b y R. F . S c h a b e l i t i

he decided to use il in his next conversation with any visitor from his native land.

“ Apropos,” said Madame de Flournay, as if following his thought (a thing, as he often pointed out, that Frenchwomen accomplished so frequently and so wonderfully), “ I expect a visit from a young compatriot of yours this afternoon. Do you happen to know Miss Penelope Weston? From New York? Her father has great interests, I understand, in railroads. Henri has hunted with them, and finds her charming— most amusing, he says, and original. And very daring.”

i q O L F shrugged and pinched his lips together. p ' Though ordinarily looking much younger than his thirty-eight years, this gesture betrayed them, and the little scowl that went with it, though it brought out the cleverness and force of his keen American profile, expressed the obstinacy that his cordial smile and clear blue eyes concealed.

“ Oh . . . daring!” he said. “ That, o f course. They are all daring, nowadays, unfortunately. It might be more interesting if it were less common perhaps. But will you explain to me, Mfilanie, if you can (and thank God, you can’tl) what can possibly be the logical attraction of daring in a young girl? What can it lead to? She takes the risk, yes, but can any decent man allow her to take the consequences? I t ’s a cheap game— with no stakes! At least one hopes so. Though even so, I ’m afraid, from what we hear of the life over there . . . ”

Madame de Flournay waved her hand again very lightly.

“ In this case, m y good Dolf,” she said, “ the stake appears to be a broken neck. Mademoiselle is a marvelous horsewoman, it appears, and it’s her daring in this that Henri spoke of. For the rest— I don’t know.” .

“ Oh,” said D olf shortly, “ horses! I believe there is a great fad for sport over there now, among the rich. They ape the English on Long Island, I ’m told.

.A magnificent training for a wife, breaking one’s neck, isn’t it ? ”

“ Ah,” Madame de Flournay replied softly, “ it is difficult to train oneself for a wife, man ami, especially nowadays, it seems. And suppose one is well trained— and finds no husband? In that case one might regret not having broken the neck . . . instead of the heart!”

D olf smiled obstinately.“ In any case, this mania for expensive sport

trains one for nothing but spending money,” he persisted. “ And a horsy woman! Preserve me from that!”

“ Still,” said Madame de Flournay gently, with that fascinating, twisted little smile that softened any appearance of argument, “ I feel that our young girls would benefit, perhaps, b y a little more of the freedom and open air of the English and the .Americans. Of course, we ate changing greatly, but our customs do not yield easily, you know.”

"T hank God for that!” Dolf cried heartily. “ Don’ t tell me that you would change Antoinette by a hair’s breadth! D on ’t, Melanie! I really couldn’t bear i t !”

“ Antoinette is a dear child,” she replied slowly, “ and naturally, as her aunt, I love her and am proud of her. I can’ t see that she has any faults, really. But I wish, franidy, that she had a little more. . . . What shall I say? Vitality?. Joie de vhre? I don’t know quite . . . ”

“ And nobody else does, I assure you,” he said warmly. “ Toinette astonishes me every time I talk with her, b y some new side of her education. The extraordinary things the child knows, the t/ay she expresses herself— it’s exquisite!”

“ Oh, educated!” Madame de Flournay repeated. “ For that, yes. She’s well educated, certainly. M y sister-in-law has always very high ideals. But I feel, sometimes, that she is almost too well educated, perhaps. . . . I mean, if she had a little more, what do you say, volonle, wilfulness?”


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 91

" D o lf ’s heart thawed beyond belief. The girl realty was remarkable— odd, but remarkable. I f only she wouldn’t loll about so, one might m ake soinetking o f her.

Dalf laughed shortly. ‘T think 'will of her own’ is what you mean, chbre madame,’’ he explained, “ but I ’m afraid ‘ wiltulness’ is what it really works out into! D on ’t, for heaven’s sake, dream of spoiling that perfection, the real jeime JUle o f France, b y tiic brutality, the inconsequent egotism of our alleged.— I think de Flournay is coming— may I take your cup?”

COUNT H E N R I D E FLOURNAY, ninth of his line, advanced, laughing and talking with

a jollity unusual with him. He was in riding clothes and appeared to be accompanied by a tall fair young man who carried his hat in his hand, a shorter, darker friend, and a young girl. As they emerged from the dusky hall, which was never bright even at noon, it was evident tliat the tall figure was a young woman’s; her liugli, as fresh and musical as it was

loud, covered the low chatter of the others, her height dwarfed every one but her host; as Dolf rose to meet tliem, he realized that he was just— if barely— as tal! as she.

De Flournay kissed his wife’s hand lightly, clasped his guest’s quickly and turned to meet the young people, a warm smile on his bronzed aquiline face. Some recent amusement still twinkled in his inscrutable, fatigued brown eyes— the old eyes of an old people.

“ I present Miss Penelope Weston to you, my dear Melanie,” he said, “ and I congratulate myself to be able to do so— I feared at one moment that she intended to gallop back to Paris. Swimming the Oise on her w ay!”

“ Oh, no, no, no! Y ou ’re making fun of me. Monsieurl She would have stopped the moment I wanted her to ! But she’s such a darling and I do so love to gallop like that.”

She put out a large, white hand and her hostess’ slender fingers were lost in it.

“ D on ’t you love to ride, Madame? ” she asked and smiled.

Her smile was large, like her hand, witli something so confiding and childlike in it that one smQed back as to a child. Her skin was of an even, bloomy, old ivory tint, her eyes hazel gray, her hair just too light a brown to be called yellow. Slender as a tall boy, her riding breeches and high stock gave her a curiously theatrical air, or at least tbe atmosphere of a fancy dress ball, an effect only the more accented b y the girlish dressing of her smooth, heavy hair, which rolled back from her white forehead and massed itself close on her neck. All the breeches and boots in the world could not have masculinized her; her full lips and melting, shining eyes, her voice, at once soft and penetrating, {Conthuied on page 144)



E R Tfi HAS GIVEN EACH

OF THESE GOWNS

E XTR A O R D IN A R Y DETAIL

A plain quaint gown of brown taffeta has elaborate pockets in the shape of an old-fashioned bouquet in various tones o f rose. The leaves o f the bouquet are embroidered on the gown in brown and gold thread.

Tke shadow evening dress al the left above is o f black, white, and many shades of gray crlpe de Chine. The shading bands, edged in gold, are of various lengths, making the skirt longer at both sides and the back.

Erti designs a rather elaborate dinner-gown o f steel metal fabric with long draped sleeves. The triangular motifs, arranged to leave the shoulders bare, are finely embroidered in heavy gold, silver and coral.

Two enormous orange plumes form the interesting and graceful feature of this brown velvet gown.

The scarf and sleeves of this black satin dress are o f while chiffon. The pockets arc lined with orange.


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 93

CH OOSE Y O U R F A V O R IT E V IE WThat Which Is Black and White on One Side, Beromei.,

Oddly, White and Black on the Other

IN H IS monasticaJ seclusion where nothing can disturb him , E rte ’s ideas flow forth in a steady stream ; they ate lim itless and ever fresh. H is sense o f line and rhythm are infallible, unvarying. H is creations a te poem s, deft, im aginative

and often intricate beyon d belief. Exquisite and precise detail distinguishes all o f his designs.

One o f E rte ’s favorite schem es is to com bine tw o very beautifu l fabrics in contrasting o r harm onizing colors, stitch, em broider, or b ind them together and use both sides to create an idea. O ne o f his m ost successful com binations is b lack and w hite satin or charmeuse, b lanket-stitched together w ith an antique go ld or steel thread, hung from the shoulders w ith perhaps the dark m aterial form ing the m ain b o d y o f the gow n , and the hem turned up in the back all the w ay to the shoulders, in this way showing both sides o f his com bined fabrics. B u t E rte is n ot w holly dependent on b lack and w hite or satin and charmeuse for his extraordinary costumes. There is n o co lor too vivid o t to o som ber for his daring brush and n o m aterial to o rich.

For a iea-goum Erti takes two pieces o j very heavy charmeuse, fiesh color and black, stitches them together and uses both sides to create this singular effect. The sleeves, o f tke flesh color, continue like wings across the back. The neck is cut very high and turned over, to form this unusual collar. The embroidery

and tassel are o f antique silver.



A G A IN ERTE USES CONTRASTING

'COLORS IN THESE

PICTURESQUE FROCKS

A

The separate sleeves of the bkie serge aflei-noon dress are attached lo the gown by a silk cord lied at ihe shoulder.

Pointed diamond shapes on this •white cripe dress are cut out of the gown itself and bound in orange shouting gray u n d e r n e a t h .

Narro'w plailings of black and •white ribbon form the unusual sleeves and large pockets of this jade-green crepe dress.

This sumptuously lovely gown Erte has fashioned end of cerise velvet and flesh satin. The hem of the skirl at the back is made into a long train which is draped up to the shoulders. The motif is embroidered in gold, rose, and cerise.

The double-faced material is again used in this gown o f emerald gr^en and a rich greenish yellow surah. The light sleeves have long flowing wings which are attached to the goum and in which convenient pockets are concealed.


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 95IV

I

FOR THE STREET ERTE FASHIONS FIVE

ESSENTIALLY DIFFERENT

FROCKS OF V A R Y IN G FABRICS

This costume of black satin lined with white cloth has a most unique two-paneled skirt folding over a side-tying silk braid belt.

A n attractive street suit o f white surah has a straight black velvet jacket hoimd and lined with the surah. Buttons of black.

A street dress of midnight blue dmetyn and tianiingo braid is meticulously tailored. The froni panels of the dress, also the cuffs and collar are lined with flamingo crlpe de Chine. The matching hat is helmet shaped.

The green kasha frock bordered with white leather is made like a spiral stairway. The spiral begins at the front hem of the skirt and continues up to the left shoulder where the arm slips through, so eliminating hooks.

In the coral duvetyn vest of this white duvetyn suit are cut round openings, which expose Ike embroidered slit pockets underneaik.



C H A N E L

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BARON DE MEYER VIEWS THE MODE

Seen Through Baron de M eyer’ s A n a ly tica l Eyes,

The M ode R esohes I t s e lf Into E asily

P erceived Features

E A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

18 rue Vaneau, Paris.

DRESSM AKERS’ collections always make a brave show on the day set for their formal openings. A festive atmosphere pervades the showrooms, which somehow disposes my brain

to be more receptive. I therefore take advantage of my numerous invitations and try to attend all the openings.

1 have acquired a number of pleasant memories, some of which I would not have missed for worlds. Among these is the beauty of the Viormet collection, so full of invention— this creative artist at her best. I am grateful to Patou for giving me something new to write about, something people will like, dislike— anyway, discuss! His reverting to the normal waist-line, his having discarded black in his collection in favor of rainbow shades— ccideiirs en foUe, as they ate termed— proved him to be the season’s boldest innovator.

I devote a pleasant and grateful memory to the lovely Chanel collection, pervaded b y this designer’s fragrant note of elegance; while the record-breaking crowd at Lelong’s on the two opening days, when orders were still given and accepted atone a .m ., is still vividly in m y mind. M any more such notable facts are worth recording, but I notice I am wasting time on an introduction.

T

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T h e V i o n n e t I n d i v i d u a l i t y

H E models of the Vionnet collection happen to be almost the first glimpses of the new spring fashions I was privileged to see.

I shall therefore speak of them to start with. The style of tiie house is o f such a decided character that one’s first impression m coming across a new model, wherever it may be, is one of recognition. Ah! C est du Vionnell Its novelty, its detail, in fact, its beauty comes to one only later. This stamp of individuality is a great asset. Madeleine Vionnet’s stock of new ideas seems inexhaustible, though she reverts in many instances to devices, almost classics, of the Vionnet traditions, such as circular ribbon roses, favorite cut-out effects, or, as just now, her famous fringes. She succeeds in giving these time- honored decorations a new twist and presents tliem in such a novel way as to make them more attractive, more delightful than before. Strange to say, this season’s most sensational Vionnet models are those on which our old friend “ the knotted fringe” figures prominently.

For sports and Southern wear fawn-colored homespun and butter- colored kasha, as well as white ratine or serge, arc very popular. For town wear colored gabardines in violets or greens are a great novelty. These materials are made into plain tailored suits of an impeccable masculine cut.. They are worn witli printed neck scarfs, closely tied around the neck, an identical handkerchief hanging out o f the pocket, reaching below the skirt hem.

C r^ e gowns are very numerous; some are gathered about the neck-line and have small godets for the sake of fulness around the hips. A red frock has elongated pieces of pink crcpe insetted in the material.

M any gowns are decorated with tucks all over them; tucks of fabulous workmanship. Some of these are shaped into squares, others into lines and circles. Another departure is a Georgette gown made of several horizontal bands stitched together. These bands are o f shaded tones in bois de rose or green. Nothing, however, pleases me as much as the series of flounced mousseline de soie dresses in

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plain ot printed materials with scalloped flounces sewn on in wavy lines. These are quite a feature of the collection. The skirts are dreams of billowy and floating flounces, which somehow this season have a way of billowing and floating in quite a novel way. Another of this season’s novelties are tunics of moussdine de soie, almost shaped hke coats, either plain or figured, to be worn over a different colored foundation. As I have already mentioned, fringes— which many people consider quite passe— have been revived b y Madame Vionnet. She somehow seems to have given them a new lease of life.

V i o K N E T U s e s F r i w g e

T h e y look new to me, almost the most novel evening gowns I have seen, so far. There are

several such models in black and in white, and one in red, covered in diagonal zigzag lines by graduated navy blue fringes. This gown in coloring, at least, seemed to me tlie most original o f the series. One white crfipe gown, a clingmg chemise, is hidden entirely b y white fringes of different lengths, which form a bewildering maze of geometrical designs. Another white gown, a marvelous invention, has gleaming white fringes wound like a spiral around the figure, starting at the shoulder and ending on the skirt hem. A black model is shown with a long- fringcd shawl, wliich has a ivinglike Watteau effect in fringe, truly wonderful. T o close this series, I was shown a white satin gown with bands of black silk “ knotted-in” fringes, which is very stunning.

Of course, there are any number of other evening gowns. One in flesh satin, for instance, has a design of Greek horses on a background of heliotrope tubes and beads. I t looks very unusual. However, this is but one of a dozen others in a m ost fascmating collection brimful of inspiration.

P a t o u H a s S u c c e s s

p A T O U ’S opening caused a sensation. His col- F lection was universally voted quite unsurpassable, whicli expression was heard on every side. It floated through a festive atmosphere, from a festively inclined assembly, composed of many Parisian and American notabilities.

The most striking feature of the Patou collection is the almost normal waist-line. In spite of its displacement, this new departure does not clash too violently with the line of previous seasons, though it is higher than it has been for many years. Both coats and skirts are fuller, jackets shorter, some almost of bolero length, unless on the contrary they are very long. Kasha, preferably beige, both plain and embroidered, figures extensively for sports purposes. A new washable material, suitable for summer gowns, is called “ ctfipe gigolo.” Hyacinth, pcrvenche, lavender are tones very popular this season, especially when in combination with navy blue. W ith blues and pinks, and with alovely shade of beige rose, almost apricot, they are the leading colors in the Patou collection.

His evening gowns this season arc a riot of color. Prismatic rainbowshades are the outstanding novelty. Gowns fasMoncd out of these materials are unsur-

J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5

passably rich, in fact bewilderingly so. M r. Patou says himself, “ Let us steer clear of excessive simplicity. Let us bear in mind that the fine point in all art is to give, beyond doubt, the impression of perfect simplicity, but let us obtain it by a research for detail and the most refined technique.” H e adds, “ Fashion is again becoming rich.” Somehow it is impossible to imagine how M r. Patou next season can surpass his present gorgeousness. He seems to have achieved the maximum.

.Every means of giving the impression of a higher waist-line is cleverly taken advantage of, be it by a line or a flounce placed higher up than hitherto, by a belt, or maybe only b y a pinch in the material. The fabrics seem to cling much closer to the figure, while shirts in most instances are fuller, more flaring, producing a rippling movement, especially when made of light materials. A charming gown exemplifying this style is “ Claridge.” I t is o f beige rose Georgette crfipe.

There are almost no satin day gowns in the new Patou collection, in fact, black satin is used in very few instances. Patou now considers black too utilitarian. Dicmant rose is one of the new shaded crcpe evening gowns. I t is designed in cerise vanishing into pink, and is closely doute with pink and red diamonds. The gown is slightly draped, excessively short in front, and hangs very low at the back. The series o f rainbow gowns, bejeweled, befringed, and heavily embroidered in every known sparkling bead, is a revelation. Of these tissties degrades— pink, blue, green, yellow, violet, et cetera— shades of which the great Loie Fuller dreamed but which she hardly ever realized, one can but say, “ astounding.” They cannot be described, they must be seen.

There are coats to harmonize with every one of these astounding gowns.They form an ensemble, for, as Patou says, “ The ensemble is the summons of chic for the elegant woman; a long career is in store for it.” Less riotous and therefore more distinguished is a really lovely white crfpe frock. I t apparently has three waist-lines, produced b y bands of diamonds embroidered on theclinging bodice part, while the very soft but full skirt is studded in a regular all-over design of sparkling diamonds.The model is called “ Vierge foUe.”

Nothing can be mote beautifully elegant than “ AnthinSa,” an ensemble produced b y a liquid silver evening coat fashioned on the best Patou lines, trimmed with dark fur borders, lined in pink velvet, and worn over a rose and silver gown.

In speaking o f the new Chanel collection I cannot express my own impressions better than in Mademoiselle Chanel’s own words. \\Tiy. therefore, look for others? Tliis is what she said to me on the opening day.

“ In designing m y new models I have, neither labored nor broken m y head in order to create sensational new depar-

99

tures. M y clientele does not require this, in fact, it would be resented. Sensation and eccentricity are justified for those who have to make up b y such methods for what comes to me naturally— good taste. I believe m y collection to be comprehensive. I t contains what every woman needs, now they have realized that in order to be well dressed they have to adopt the style of one house, be it mine or the style of some other first-class establishment, but have to remain faithful to it. Women who dress in half a dozen different houses hardly ever succeed in looking smart. Therefore, the ones who come to me come here expecting to see only Chanel gowns, no others. Chanel gowns are synonymous with elegance, so if I ’ve labored— and believe me, I ’ve worked hard over this collection— I ’ve labored to create nothing but elegance. Have I succeeded?”

“ Yes, you have,” was m y reply.“ Well, then, if you think m y collection elegant it

is sufficient. I t contains a great many novelties, but requires the experience of a seasoned dresser to detect its subtleties.”

T h e E l e g a s i C h a n e l

Fo r sports purposes tliin jerseys and homespuns are used in a happy combination. Jersey alone

is made into little daytime gowns worn under kasha and crepella coats.

Ctfipella, both for gowns and coats, is quite a feature of the house. Some of the coats of this material are unlined, therefore only possible for summer

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wear. Printed crepe dresses are very numerous, especially in black and white, and a large assortment of tlie famous Chanel Geoigette and chiffon gowns are being shown. A very smart sports coat is made of champagne-colored velveteen, and I noticed coats and capes with immense borders of soft cock’s feathers. (I specially noticed a red cr4peDa garment with red cock’s feathers.) Tortoise-shell colored moir^, shot witli gold, is mo.st effective made into an evening wrap with a fur border matching the shade of the material. A wine-colored evening coat, with a capelike collar, b lined with a silver tissue and has a novel decoration of silver tassels. Delightful is a glorified waterproof of a stitched pale green caoutchouc lined in beige taffeta. I t is specially designed for motoring.

Chanel’s afternoon ensembles are delightful. One of tliese has a gown of Bordeaux ctfpe de Chine, combined with a navy crSpella coat, and a black flowered crepe is worn under a soft black taffeta coat, which flares prodigiously and conceals the gown entirely. There is a large collection of evening

tfks coliectLba

dresses. They comprise Georgette cr^pe and chiffon gowns in lovely shades so practical for small occasions, and lace ftodcs by tlie dozen. Black ones, of course, but also red ones, a number in beige, and a few in gold lace. One model in particular, gold flounces over pink satin, is sure to become a very great favorite. A charming little black lace frock, consisting of innumerable volants made over a net foundation and worn with black lace trouserettes, is delightful. So is a green Georgette model which is tres Chanel, having two tiers of the new green “ rice” fringe in lieu of skirt. There are quite a number of metal tissue gowns in this new collection and a series of embroidered dresses. I especially recall one such garment, embroidered in pearls and silver, the design representing an immense sunburst.

L e n i e f t h e D i s t i n c t i v e

T ENIEP'’S evening reception took the form of a -k -' pleasant gathering. There was music, a singer, the atmosphere of a private party. The music was

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discreet, in keeping with the establishment and the refinement of the models. Ever since taking an active interest in fashions I ’ ve had a weakness for the Lenief collections. They have an air o f distinction in their extreme neatness, and their reticence is very pleasing. They have individuality. All the Lenief collections I have seen have always been good. However, since last season he seems to have, both mentally as well as actually, departed from his exclusively adopted straightness, and though his models never flare he seems to permit himself more freedom. In other words, Lenid evolves maybe toward something unknown to us as yet, but surely toward something new, which he will find. I expected him to develop the Directoire waist-line. He indicated it last August, but there is none of it in his new collection. The waist-line at Lenief’s continues to be absent, or at least is placed low.

Every model is wearable. Skirts are short, but always in proportion. Tunics are open in front and show a contrasting foundation. 'This contrast of color and fabric is a feature of tlie Lenief collection. Sports costumes are exclusively made of kasha, sleeveless kasha jumpers worn under coats and jackets.

A sia most other houses beige kasha predominates, but red is I^nief’s favorite shade, and he uses real violet, as well as mauve and lavender. Embroidery is used very lavishly, o f the kind one expects from him, charming in detail, refined, and giving tbe characteristic Eastern note that is individual to this house.

A slim tunic, open in front over a narrow underskirt, with a few inches of pantalettes of a contrasting shade showing beneath the narrow skirt, a few embroidered high-lights, some gold tlireads, produce an ensemble unmistakably Lenief. Typical colorings arc plum with coral, black and gold, or white, coral, and silver. A lovely coat is of a silver texture resembling Japanese lacquer in combination with steel gray satin. Charming is a mixture of brilliant green and blue over white, on which designs of water-lilies are embroidered.

One of the best evening gowns of the Lenief collection is of lavender chiffon over rose and mauve. Tliis model is worn witli a belt of big turquoises and diamonds from which hangs a long mauve tassel. An evening coat to harmonize with tliis gown is of a gold tissue woven with a design of large mauve poppies and lined with pink velvet.

O n e R e m a e k a b l e F e o c k

A N O TH ER very striking model is a beautiful L i :vhite evening gown wliich has immense circular pink roses, o f tlie kind one secs on Spanisli shawls, embroidered on the lower part of tlie skirt. I t is sketched on page seventy-seven.

Lucien Lelong’s evening party for the press, an excuse for an evening’s entertainment, was very


f ° r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 101

brilliant. The unusually rich collection, the elegance of tlic audience, and the lavishly provided refreshments were quite a feature.

In fact, the very interesting company proved so distracting that somehow most of the fashion points escaped me. I had, tlierefore, to return nc.xt day. T o my surprise I found the crowd, consisting mostly of foreign importers and buyers, even greater dian the night before. An excellent champagne was being served, a courtesy almost as much appreciated by the American contingent as the display of models.

Lelong’s collection is magnificent. There are over three hundred models and no one need again complain that models are monotonously plain in Paris. They vary from simple kasha sports suits to golden leather garments, and from little Georgette frocks to jeweled and re-bejeweled resplendent evening gowns. The collection is just one big successful effort and should please even the blas6 American woman.

L e l o n g a t H i s B e s t

A S TO finish and workmanship this new collection is far superior to anything Lelong has given us up to now. He seems to im

prove from season to season, an indefatigable worker who will only realize the fuU extent of his popularity on reaching New York next fall. A hearty welcome awaits him.

Beautiful English materials and kashas arc prime factors in the sports department. M ost models in such materials have skirts combined with knickers made of the same texture. The variety in cut and style o f such skirts, quite a feature this season, seems unending- M ost sports gowns are sleeveless, combined with short jackets, or with a long narrow coat to keep one warm.

Beige kasha, as in most houses, reigns supreme, be it in self- colored ensembles adorned b y stripes of contrasting sliades, ot by decorated bands. It is used also for coats in combination with plain or printed crepes. In the latter event the coat is tailored, but deftly by some clever touches brought into harmony witli the gown.

Very interesting, for instance, is a gold leather sports jacket banded with pale beige beaver worn over a beige kasha gown, photographed on page one hundred and four. “ Biarritz” is the name of a yellow kasha coat and skirt worn with a knitted sleeveless sweater of zigzag des^n, modern, but derived from what is popularly known as “ Point de Hongrie,”

Many of the little day gowns are extremely youthful. They have big white collars tight around the neck and huge taffeta bows high up at the throat. One model in particular resembles a white pinafore, plaited and belted. I t is worn under a long and narrow black coat. “ Yaconda” is an ensemble composed of a gown made ot very large black and white squares, heavOy shot with gold. With this dress goes a severe looking black coat, tied at the neck and waist by large black taffeta bows.

Lelong’s favorite colorings for evening wear tliis season seem to be pink and blue, rose and blue, salmon and blue, and all similar combinations. Such gowns are in every instance designed to be worn witli corresponding wraps and form a collection of extraordinary brilliancy. “ Pelleas” is the name given to a turquoise velvet coat decorated b y bands of turquoise cock feathers, while the gown, called “ Melisande,” is similar in (Continued on page la j)

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L A N V I N

B L A C K cuydtone but shades into rose and mauve. One of the loveliest models o f this very beautiful collection is “ Dragon d ’Or,” a dress made entirely of golden tubes, re-embroidered in rhinestones. The feature of this gown is a deep band of navy blue wliich reaches from bust to hip, tho texture being brocaded in a design of Chinese dragons embroidered in iiamenle.

MolyneiLx's collection is pervaded by tbe charm and personality of its designer. I t consists of lovdy and wearable creations, refined, perfect in coloring, and always in excellent taste. Edward Molyneux’s love of magnificent embroideries never carries him beyond the limits he has deliberately sot for him

self. His evening gowns are in most cases magnificent and covered by embroideries, yet are always counterbalanced by a youthful, narrow look, very characteristic of his style.

“ G a z - i - a n t C a p t a i n M o l y n e u x ”

HIS sense of elegance and measure is, I should say, the most distinctive note iu his new collection,

wliich is sure to greatly enhance his reputation. Sports clothes are very numerous and smart. Jumpers, mostly designed with elbow sleeves, arc to be worn under coats. Beige kasha, as a matter of course, is used extensively, though less lavishly than in other

houses, A novelty is homespun fabrics producing degrade effects from light to darker brown and a beige shawl material with a dark woven border. Both these textures are shaped into sports costumes. Huge tassels, and in another irrstance very small ones, are used almost like a fringe on a kasha coat and on the skirt o f a beige crepe gown. The effect is charming and new. A champagne-colored frock is very smart, so is a similar ensemble in the same shade, but designed in brodcric aiiglaise. This latter is very summery, only wearable witli a large shady hat, as yet quite out of season. Evening dresses at hlolyneiLX arc very varied. There is the narrow black satin type {Continued on page 17 °)

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HMUC F O U R R U R E M A X — M A D A U B L E R O Y

S IE V E R B R O C A B E C O A T



Dorothy really gives a gentleman a bad impression as she talks quite a lot o f slang.

So M r. Ginzberg and 1 walked around the deck and we met the gentleman face to face.

FAT O NH A P P E N I N G

T h e D i a r y o f a T r a v e l i n g

P r o f e s s i o n a l L a d y

B y A n i t a L o o s

S l i d e s by R a l p h B a r t o n

w;April jilli.

T .LL Doro- lliy andlare really on the

ocean sailing to Europe as I can note by looking out of the window. I always love the ocean, I mean I always love a ship and I really love the Majc.iHc because you really would not know it was a ship because it is just like being at the Ritz, and the steward says the ocean is really not so obnoxious this month as it generally is.

Dorothy is out taking a walk up and

down the deck with a gentleman we met on the steps, but I am not going to waste my time because if 1 did notliing but go around I would not finish my diary or read good books which I am always reading to improve my mind. Dorothy

really does not care about her mind and I always scold her because she does nothing but waste her time by going around with gentlemen who really do not have anytliing when Eddie Goldmark of the Goldmark FOms is really quite wealthy and can make a girl delightful presents. But she will waste her time. 1 mean yesterday which was really the day before we sailed she would not go to luncheon with Mr. Goldmark but she went to luncheon to meet a gentleman called Mr. Menken from Baltimore who really only prints a green magazine which has not even got any pictures in it. But Mr. Eisman is always saying that every girl does not want to get ahead and get educated like me. I mean Mr. Eisman is always agentieman. I mean he is really more to me than my own father and sometimes I even call him Daddy.

Mr. Eisman and Lulu came down to the boat to see us off and Lulu cried quite a lot. I really believe she could not care any more for me if she was light and not colored. Lulu has had a very sad life. I mean when she was quite young a pullman porter fell madly in love with her. So she believed him and he lured her away from her home to Ashtabula and deceived her there. She finally found out that she had been deceived and she really was broken hearted and when she tried to go back home she found out that it was to late because her best girl friend who

she had always trusted had stolen her husband and he would not take Lulu back. So I have always said to her she could always work for me and she is going to take care of the apartment until I get back again because I would not sublet the apartment because Dorothy sublet her apartment when she went to Europe last year and the gentleman who sublet the apartment allowed girls to pay calls on him who really were not nice. So Mr. Eisman is going to meet us next month in Paris because he has to be there on business because he is in the button profession and he always says there is really no place to see the

, latest styles in. buttons like Paris.Mr. Eisman has litereally filled our room with

flowers.and the steward has had quite a liard time to find enough vases to put them into. He said he really knew as soon as he saw me and Dorothy that he would have quite a heavy run on vases. And of course Mr. Eisman has sent me really quite a lot o f . good books as he always does because be always knows that good books are always wplcohie. So he has sent me quite a large book of Et^uetle as he says there is quite a lot of Etiquette in Engla,nd and London and it would be a good thing for a girl to learn. So I am going to take it on the deck after luncheon and read it because I would often like to know what a girl ought to do when a gentleman she has really only just met says something to her in a taxi. Of course I always become quite vexed but I always believe in giving a gentleman another chance. So the steward tells me it is luncheon time as I can hear by quite a loud horn so I will go upstairs as the gentleman Dorothy and I met on the steps has invited us to luncheon in the Ritz whicli is a special dining room on the ship where you can spend quite a lot of money because they really give away the food in the otlier dining room.

April 1 2 th.T AM going to stay in bed this morning as I am ■I- really quite upset as I saw a gentleman who quite upset me. I am not really sure it was tlie gentleman as I saw him at quite a distants in the bar but if it really is the gentleman it shows that if a girl has a lot of fate in her life it is sure to keep on happening. So when I thought I saw this gentleman I really got quite upset and I said goodnight to Major Falcon who is the gentleman Dorothy and I met on the steps and I came to my room and went to bed and cried quite a lot.

Major Falcon noticed that I was quite upset and he really wanted me to tell him all about it but I was to upset. So I did not stay up late like Dorothy so she is still asleep so the steward brought me my coffee and quite a large pitcher of ice water so I will stay in bed and not have any more champgne until luncheon time. Dorothy never has any fate in her life and she really does nothing but waste her time and I really wonder if I did right to bring her with me and not Lulu. I mean she really gives a gentleman a bad impression as she talks quite a lot ot slang and I always scold her because when I went up yesterday to meet she and Major Falcon for luncheon I overheard her say to Major Falcon that she really liked to become intoxicated once in a “ dirty” while. Only she did not say intoxicated but she really said a slang word that means intoxicated and I really scold her quite a lot. I mean I always tell her that “ dirty” is a slang word and she really should not say “ dirty.” Major Falcon is really quite a delightful gentleman for an Englishman.I mean he really spends quite a lot of money and we had quite a delightful .luncheon and dinner in the Ritz until I thought I saw the gentleman who upset me and I am so upset I really tliink I will get up and get dressed and go up on the deck and see if it really is the one I mean. I mean there is really nothing for me to do as I have finished writing in m y diary for today and I have decided not to read the book of Etiquette as I glanced through it and it really does not seem to have anything in it that I would care to know because it wastes quite a lot of time telling you what to call a Lord and all the Lords 1 have met have told me what to call them and it is generally some quite cute name like Cookie whose teal name is really Lord Cooksleigh. So I will get up and get dressed and not waste my time on such a book. But I really wish I did not feel so upset about the gentleman I really think I saw.

April ijlk.TT really is tlie gentleman I thought I saw. I

mean when I found out it was the gentleman my heart really stopped. I mean it all brought back


f o A P R I L 1 9 2 5107

things that anybody does not like to remember, no matter who tlicy are. M y whole trip would be spoiled if it was not for Major Falcon who really knows how to comfort a girl quite a lot. TOicn I got dressed yesterday and went up on the deck to walk around and see if I could see the gentleman and see if it really was him I met quite a delightful gentleman who I met once at a party called hir. Ginzberg. So he said we would walk around the deck together. Only his name is not hir. Ginzberg any more because a gentleman in London called Mr. Battenburg, who is really something to some king, changed his name to Mr. Mountbatten which Mr. Ginzberg says reallymcans the same thing after all so Mr. Ginzberg changed his name to Mr. Mountginz which he really thinks is more aristocratic. So we walked around the deck and we met the gentleman face to face and I really saw it was him and he really saw it was me. I mean his face became so red it really was a picture. So I was so upset I said goodbye to Mr- Mountginz and I sUrted to rush right down to my room and cr>'. But I bumped right into Major Falcon who really noticed that I was upset.So Major Falcon made me go to the Ritz and have some champgne and tell him all about it because he knew I was upset last night by seeing a gentleman.

So I told him about the time in Little Rock when Papa sent me to Little Rock to study how to become a stenographer. I mean Papa and I had quite a little quarrel because Papa did not like a gentleman who used to pay calls on me in the park. So I was in the business coUcdge in Little Rock for about a week when a gentleman called Mr. Jennings paid a cal! to the business colledgc because he wanted to have a new stenographer. So he looked over all we coUedge girls and he picked me out because he told our teacher that he would help me finish my course in his office because he was only a lawj'er and I really did not have to know so much. So Mr. Jennings helped me quite a lot and I stayed in his office about a year when I found out that he really was not the kind of a gentleman that a young girl is really safe witli. I mean one evening when I went to pay a call on him at his apartment there was a girl there who really was famous all over Little Rock for not being nice. So when I found out that girls like that paid ciiJls on Mr. Jennings I really had quite a bad case of histerics and my mind was really a blank and when I came out of it it seems that I liad a revolver in my hand and it seems that the revolver had shot Mr. Jennings.

So this gentleman on the boat was really the District Attorney who was at the trial and he really was quite harsh at tlie trial and he called me names that i really would not even put in my diary. Because everyone at the trial except the District Attorney was really lovely to me and all the gentlemen in the jury all cried when the law>'er pointed at me and told them that they practically all had had cither a mother or a sister. So tlic jury was only out three minutes and they were all so lovely that I really had to kiss aO of them and when I kissed the judge he had tears in liis eyes and he took me right home to his sister.I mean it was really when Mr.Jennings became shot that I got tlie idea to go mto the cinema so Judge Hibbard got me a ticket to Hollywood. So it was Judge Hibbard who really gave me my name because he did not lilre the name I had because he said a girl ought to have a name that ought to express her personality. So he said my name ought to be I-orelei which is the name of a rock in Germany. So I was in Plollywood in the cinema when I met Mr. Eisman and he said tliat a girl with ray brains ought not to be in the cinema but she ought to be educated so he took me out of the cinema so he could educate inc.

Major Falcon was really quite interested iu evcry- tbing I talked about because he said it was quite a co-instance because this District Attorney who is called Mr. Bartlett is now working for tlie government of America and he is on his way to a place called Vienna on some busmess for Uncle Sam tliat is really quite a great secret and ilr . Falcon would really like to know very much what the secret is because tlie Government in London sent him to America especially to find out what it was. Only of

When I kissed the judge he had tears in his eyes and he took me right home to his sister.

-T T -T l]

The steward is really quite- a nice boy and he has had quite a sad life.

course Mr. Bartlett does not know who Major Falcon is because it is really a great secret but Major Falcon can tell me because he really knows he can trust a girl like I. So he says he really thinks a girl like I ought to forgive and forget what hir. Bartlett called me and he wants to bring us together and he says he really thinks Mr. Bartlett would talk to me quite a lot when he really gets to know me and really

knows I forgive him for that time in Little Rock. Because it would be quite romantic for Mr. Bartlett and I to become friendly because gentlemen who work for Uncle Sam generally like to become romantic with girls. So he is going to bring us together on the deck after dinner tonight and I am going to foi^ve him and talk with him quite a lot, because why should a girl really hold a grudge against a gentleman who had to do it. So Major Falcon really brought mequite a large bottle of perfume and a quite cute imitation of really quite a large size dog in tlie little shop which is on board the boat so Major Falcon really knows how to cheer a girl up and so tonight I am going to make it all up with Mr. Bartlett.

April iqlh.

W ELL Mr. Bartlett and I made it all up last night and we are going to be the best of friends

and talk quite a lot. Major Falcon brought Mr.Bartlett out on the deck and he left us alone andI did not see Major Falcon again until 1 went down to my room quite late when he came down to my room to see if I and Mr. Bartlett were really going to lie friends because he said a girl with brains like I ought to really have lots to talk about with a gentleman with brains like Mr. Bartlett who knows all of Unde Sam’s secrets.

Mr. Bartlett tliinks that he and I really seem to be like a play because all the time he was calling me all those names in Little Rock he really thought I was. So when he found out that I turned out not to be, he said he always thought that I only used my brains

against men and really had quite a cold heart. But now he really thinks I ought to write a play about how he called me all those names in Little Rock and then after seven years we became friendly. So I told him I would write the play but 1 really did not have time as it takes quite a lot of time to write my diaiy and read good books. So he did not know that I really like books which is quite a co-instance because he likes them. So he is going to bring me a book of philosophy this afternoon called “ Smile, Smile, Smile” which all the really brainy senators in Washington are all reading which really cheers you up quite a lot. Mr. Bartlett really does not drink anything or he does not dance. I mean there is really not anything to do on a boat after all but he asked me to dine at his table which is not in the Ritz and I told him I could not but Major Falcon told me I ought to but 1 told Major Falcon that really there was a limit to almost everything. So I am going to stay in my room until luncheon and I am going to luncheon in the Ritz with Mr. Mount- ginz who really knows how to treat a girl.

Dorothy is up on tlie deck wasting quite a lot of time with a gentleman who is really only a tennis champion. So I am going to ring for the steward and have some champgne which really is quite good for a person on a boat. The steward is really quite a nice boy and he has had quite a sad life and he likes to tell me all about himsdf. I mean it seems that he was arrested in Flatbush because it seems that he had promised a gentleman that he would bring him some very very good scotch and they took him for a bootlegger. It seems they put him in a prison and they put him in a sell with two other gentlemen and it seems that the two gentlemen were really quite famous bu^lars. I mean they really had their pictures in all the newspapers and everybody was talking about them. So my steward whose real name is Fred was very very proud to be in the same sell with such famous burglars. So when they asked him what he was he really did not like to tell them that he was only a bootlegger so he told them that he set fire to a house and burned up quite a large family in Oldahoma. So everything would have gone alright except that tlie police had put a dictaphone in the sell and used it all against liim and he could not get out until they had investigated all the fires in Oklahoma. {Concluded on page x6o)



Tt'i' I

'• lii

IMadame's visitor’s face hardened. Only his voice, so carefully restrained, gave indication o f his suffering.’ ’

T H E A S T T H E V I R G I N SC l o s i n g a B r i l l i a ? t t S e r i e s o f M y s t e r y S t o r i e s

By E . P h i l l i p s O p p e n h e i m

I l l u s t r a t e d by M a r s h a l l F r a n t z

G e o f f r e y FRANCIS, Earl of Westerton, like many a man of his age, state of health, and profession—he had been a guardsman

in his younger days—was disposed to be irritable. Three times he had blown the whistle of the speaking tube which was supposed to communicate with liis chaufieur, and on none of these occasions had the man taken the slightest notice. He was still sitting, stolid and immovable, in his place, and his passenger, who on entering the limousine had distinctly indicated his desite to be driven to Nice, was rapidly losing his temper. Without a word of warning or explanation the chauffeur had taken an abrupt turn to the left off the main road and was proceeding inland at a pace which, along such narrow roads and in an entirely unknown direction, was certainly on the venturesome side.

“ Hi! You there! Where the devil are you going? I told you Nice,” Lord Westerton bawled down the tube.

There was no response whatever. The occupant of the car suddenly remembered that this temporary chauffeur might possibly not understand English. He repeated his protestations in French with similar lack of success and afterwards let down the window and reiterated in both languages everything which he had previously said to the motionless figure at the wheel. Still the man took not the slightest notice.

“ Are you deaf, confound you?” his lordship demanded at last, leaning out so far that he could jog the other’s arm.

The chauffeur spoke for the first time, choosing his own language. He was obviously a Frenchman,

“ Milord is not to derange himself,” he said, “ All will be well It is a little call which we pay among the hills quite close at hand.”

Milord, who was exhausted, leaned back in his seat.

“ Abducted, by God!” He muttered.Lord Westerton, among other qualities not ail so

admirable, possessed a sense of humor and inclinations toward philosophy. He clearly perceived that, situated as he was, he was helpless. They were traveling at thirty miles an hour and any form of appeal to a casual passer-by or to the peasants working in the fields would be only ridiculous. For some reason or other, not in the least apparent, this chauffeur, who had taken the place of his own man, suddenly indisposed, for one day, had made up his mind to disobey instructions


f o - A P R I L 1 9 2 5

and to pilot him to some unknown spot. To leave the car was impossible. To make any sort of attack upon the chaufieur in this narrow thoroughfare would be dangerous. On the whole he decided to resign himself.

T h e country through which they were passing was at least picturesque and interesting—a

great improvement upon the main road. There were many little homesteads with their vineyards and strip of meadow land, here and there a sheltered orchard, a flurry' of cherry blossoms in the soft wind, the perfume of an occasional grove of orange trees, fainter but more insistent. It was a country which Lord Westerton knew indifferently well and into which he had always felt an inclination to lienetrate. The road wound round a great chateau of historic memory and curved itself deeper into the bosom of the hills. In his younger days this involuntary passenger had been fond of adventures. Some faint revival of this instinct for the unexpected stirred in his blood with every kilometer- Where was he to be taken? How was it possible to escape far enough from civilization to hold him anywhere against his will? Or was it, perhaps, a joke on the part of one of his friends? Meanwhile it was a very pleasant drive, a little change from the monotony of his ordinary life. Of fear or apprehension he had none whatever. Such evO qualities were unknown in his family.

So. with his irritability meiging into a faintly e.xcited sense of curiosity. Lord Westerton gave himself up to the enjoyment of his unforewen adventure. Its meaning was hidden from him even ivhen at last they turned into the gates of the viUa, and, climbing the avenue of oleanders, budding rhododendrons, and many flowering shrubs, drew up at last before the wide-flung piazza. Obeying, apparently, a summons from tbe porter’s lodge, a very correct-looking English butler descended the steps and threw open the door of the car. Lord Westerton was conscious for a moment of a ridiculous feeling of disappointment. Nothing exceptional could happen with such an environment.

“ Will your lordship be so good as to descend?” the man invited.

“ Why the dickens should I ? ” was the querulous response. “ I don’ t even know who lives here or why I have come.”

\ woman who had been reclining in a long chair hidden by the clustering roses came slowly to the

steps. She was dressed in a very beautiful morning wrap, hung with wonderful lace. She was obviously no longer young but her eyes were still brilliant, her figure slim, and she carried herself tvith grace and dignity. Her involuntary visitor gazed at her in bewilderment. Then her lips parted in a faint smile of welcome, and he remembered. He also understood.

“ Madame!” he exclaimed.“ I am very glad to welcome you at last, dear

friend,” she said, holding out her hands. “ I have been very patient, but I must remind you that you are the last of my Virgins. It was not like that years ago."

I-ord Westerton descended from the cm and bowed over the fingers which he raised to Ms lips.

“ Madame,” he declared, “ in one respect at least you are unchanged. You are an epicure in the unexpected. May I hope that my humble apologies w ll be received with your usual generosity — ? ”

“ That depends upon your state of mind,” was the not ungracious reply. “ His lordship will lunch here, William,” she added, turning to the butler. “ Send the car to the garage. We tvill telephone when it is required. Meanwhile,” she went on, pointing to two chairs on the piazza, “ we will talk for a little time.”

Lo r d w e s t e r t o n seated himself by her side 2 with a chuckle.“ So I was abducted!” he observed.She looked at Mm reproachfully.“ You should not have needed such a method of

persuasion,” she declared.He sighed. -After all, it was amazing how easily

the threads were picked up. For a moment he forgot that he was sixty-nine years old. He thought only of the days when the near presence of Madame meant always the stir of hfe. “ I have been to blame,” he admitted. {Continued on page 1 5 4 )

109

“ 'But I d o n o t w ish to g o . ’ C laire p rotested v igo rou sly . ‘I have taken th is cou n t r y i n t o m y h e a r t . I do not w ish to leave it .’ ”



r jA T O U h a s p r o d u c e d t h i s im p e c c a b l e a n d b e a u t i fu l l y t u r n e d - 4- o u t r i d in g - h a b i t—w i th th e s l i g h t e s t o f F r e n c h a c c e n t s , p e r h a p s —’in h i s n ew “ C o in d e s S p o r t s ." T h e c o a t i s o f c o v e r t c lo th , th e b r e e c h e s w h ip c o r d , th e s h i r t a n d l i e , t u s s o r e s i lk . T h e r e i s a w e l l f i t t i n g g r a y b e i g e h a t. I n th e b a ck grou n d i s sh o w n a h e r r i n g - b o n e tw e e d u ls t e r th a t P a t o u h a s n a m e d “ R o l l s -R o y c e ."


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5111

THUS MUST THE RIDING HABIT BE CUTThe Correct, A ll the Coii-ect, and Nothing but the Correct Riding-Habits

Are Minutely Sketched and Discussed in this Portfolio

B y M a r i e L y o n s

T h e r e is very little opportunity for the exercise of taste in men’s clothes. Everything from collar to shoes is definitely prescribed so that

the well-dressed man is distinguished from others chiefly b y his manner of wearing his clothes and the excellence of their cut and material.

There is one department of dress where women have this same advantage— the riding-habit. Here women’s dress falls into the same category as men’s, and taste is subordinated to law. Uniformity and conformity rather than variety and individuality are the rule. It is just as ridiculous for a woman to attempt any display of personality, any variation from the prescribed costume here, as for a man to try to differentiate himself b y wearing a black velvet dinner jacket— as some men have been known to do.

With so many laws to hem them in, such a formidable array of d o ’s and don’ ts as definite and uncompromising as the ten commandments, one would think all women who ride would be properly dressed; yet there is no place where one sees so many laughable examples of bad taste as on the bridle path. I t takes a kind of genius to dress so badly. H ow are such costumes possible and in what sliop can such atrocities be obtained? Nothing is required of these w om ea

except that they should obey the law, and yet probably not ten per cent, o f those who ride are even passably well-dressed. Instead of the severe and utterly practical garments they are supposed to wear, they appear in all manner of furbelows, plaid coats, khald suits, golf trousers, velvet coats or ir ts , polo trousers, Georgette blouses displaying fancy lingerie, low- necked waists, velvet jockey caps, tricorns of straw or patent-leather, earrings, necklaces, not to mention such minor atrocities as coats too short and flaring, fluffy hair, bright ribbons on their panama hats, chin straps, etcetera. .And the worse they ride the more certain they are to carry a crop and wear spurs. Here the apparel certainly proclaims the rider. A correctly dressed woman is sure to be riding well and in good form, for the professional spirit is shown in performance as well as in dress; but the badly dressed woman is almost surely riding in bad form and dangerously, being an amateur in spirit.

A woman may be born without the taste to achieve smartness in her daily dress, and she may never be able to acquire it ; but any woman can obey the few simple rules that will make her a well-dressed horsewoman.

The first general hiw— and perhaps a difficult one



F O R M A L

H A B IT S F O R T H E

S ID E -S A D D L E

This most formal o f habits for show purposes is o f black melton with a black velvet half collar. Accessories— bnff cloth vest, while shirt, white stock, black patent-leather boots, high hat, gardenia.

Slightly less formal is a habit o f light-weight black melton or dark blue melton with revers o f corded silk and slit pockets. Accessories are the same as for the other habit except the pique vest.

for the woman who values her prettiness above all things— is the rule of masculine severity. One may be the very quintessence of femininity in the drawing-room, but on a horse one must look as much like a man as possible. For example, the only hats that are permitted the horsewoman are those that a gentleman would wear— his high hat “ o f eight reflections,” his derby, felt hat, stiff straw hat, and panama— never a cap, never a tricorn, never a sombrero.

The hair beneath the hat must be arranged with the utmost severity. I f it is curly or fluffy, one is unfortunate; it must be made to look as straight and sleek as possible. I f it is short, it should be brushed flat and dose to the face. The ears may show or not as one prefers. If the hair is long it should be drawn back very tight, so as to display the ears (it looks smarter to expose the whole ear than just the tip), braided, wound in a tight circle on the neck, and securely pinned. I f one has not enough hair to do this, a switch should be worn or the hair arranged to look like short hair. Above all, no single curl must be allowed to stray, no puff on the cheek tolerated. AE else may be perfect, but if the hair is even slightly fluffy the whole effect will be destroyed. N o make-up should be worn, no earrings. The head must

be the severely plain head of a man. This is the W aterloo ot the woman who will be pretty at all costs. She cannot sacrifice her prettiness to the laws of good taste and smartness. Y et, if she but knew it, what she fandes she loses in prettiness is more than made up in true distinction.

The fabrics of women’s habits are those worn by men— homespun, whipcord, Bedford cord, melton, et cetera— and the cut is as nearly like a man’s as can be achieved. The woman’s breeches are exactly the same shape as the man’s and the coat should be cut so as to give the broad-shouldered, narrow-hipped effect o f a man’s figure. I t is fatal to look hippy on a horse. Here, if anywhere, the slim, boyish figure that is demanded of women to-day is absolutely essential. For the woman who wears a skirt and rides a side-saddle, the laws of severity are as rigid as for the woman who rides in the masculine position.

Riding-habits should be made to order. Just as the well-dressed man finds it necessary to have his suits cut to his measure and beautifully tailored, so the woman who rides, in order to achieve a similar well-groomed, avell-turned-out appearance in a costume which depends


j o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 113

Habits on both pages from N A R D I

LESS F O R M A L H A B ITS ,

I N C L U D IN G S U M M E R H A B ITS ,

F O R T H E S ID E -S A D D L E

A n informal side-saddle habit, correctly worn only for mfoiinal country riding, cotiHsts o f a skirt o f tan Bedford cord, a coat o f brown and white flecked homespun, a checked vest, a white silk shirt with a high collar, harmonizing tie, a hrown derby, and brown bools.

For less formal hunting than the habit shown on the opposite page is this model o f a dark gray, almost black, O.xford mixture. For real hunting weather the coat is lined with red and white plaid flannel, and a shirt o f light gray or natural color French flannel is alsoworn.

The best looking hoi weather informal side-saddle habit is o f pongee with a coal cut sharply away from a single button, and patch pockets. W ith it may be worn a panama or leghorn hat, Ian bools, and a silk shirt. This suit may be worn for park or country riding.


l UH A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

Habits on both pages from NA RDI

LESS U S U A L H A B IT S FO R

R I D I N G A S T R I D E , IN C L U D I N G

T H E F O R M A L H A B IT

A n astride costume for show purposes approved by many judges consists o f the frock coat and military trousers worn by men for show purposes. These are o f dark blue whipcord with a line of black braid. The prescribed coat is a single-breasted coat of black melton.

For polo one may or may not wear a sleeveless coat, according to the weather. This may be of tan or white crash, linen, or gabardine, worn with trousers o f white whipcord and a short-sleeved while linen skirt open at the throat. The typical masculine helmet is worn.

Except for show purposes jodphores are not considered correct for girls over fourteen. For children, however, they are excellent. These are of lan Bedford cord, the coat is o f light brown or tan homespun, the skirt white silk witk a combination collar, the hat tan felt.


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 115

JVomen who always ride astride may wear this habit for the informal hunt or for cross-country riding: breeches o f tan Bedford cord, coat of plain Ian or brown homespun or of a diamond patterned homespun in brown and white.

Correct coat and breeches which may be made in a variety of combinations for park or country riding. I f the coal is o f almost black Oxford, the trousers may be of an indefinite gray {not white) and black check— a shepherd's plaid.

C O N V E N T I O N A L

H A B IT S FO R R ID IN G

A S T R I D E

upon precision of cut and fit for its chic, must go to a tailor who thoroughly understands his metier— and it is remarkable how few of them do. Nardi, whose habits are shown in this portfolio, has an unexcelled reputation. It would be impossible to go wrong if the advice of such an authority were followed throughout. Recently this shop has added a ready-to-wear department, aud while the same perfection o f fit and tailoring cannot be obtained even here as in the made-to-measure habit, correctness and good taste are guaranteed. The woman who has a boyish figure and who takes her own taste with her, can often obtain very acceptable habits in those few shops which specialize in really good ready-made habits.

Let us take first the most formal of habits— the side-saddle habit for show purposes shown on page 1 1 2 . As this is often worn in the evening, it has many of the characteristics of the man’s evening dress. It is made of black melton cloth cut away in front, somewhat in the manner of the man’s full evening dress. I t may be only slightly cut away, as shown in the sketch (which is better for the somewhat full figure), or very considerably cut away. It has a black velvet half collar but revers and cuffs of the melton cloth. The proper accessories

are a buff cloth vest, white English broadcloth shirt, white stock, black patent-leather boots, white buckskin or chamois gloves, high silk hat. and white boutonnifice. Such a habit is also correct for park riding and formal hunting.

A word about the newest development in hats. This year the hats (high and derby) have changed the line from a flat brim to one considerably rolled. This shape of brim necessitates a shghtly higher crown. These shapes are newer, but the flatter brims are permissible if they arc more becoming.

Second in formahty comes the other habit shown on page 1 1 2 , which also may be worn for the three occasions of show, hunting, aud park riding. This likewise may be made of black melton or dark blue melton or doeskin cloth. Broadcloth is pass6 . The less degree of formality of this habit is marked by the cut of the coat (more like a man’s dinner jacket than full dress), the permissible use of blue rather than black, the slit pockets, and the corded silk revers. The correct accessories are a white piqu6 vest, white stock, black patent- leather boots, high hat. and white gloves.

The informal side-saddle habits are shown on page 1 1 3 . O f these



Group at right from W I L L I A M W R I G H T

the one shown at the left conies first in formality. It is a hunting habit for real hunting weather, made of a dark gray, almost black, Oxford mixture lined with a red and white plaid flannel. Instead of the rather clumsy separate tab to fasten the collar high about the throat in wet ot cold weather, it has a simplified fastening; the tab is cut in one with the collar and turns under the collar proper so as not to show when the collar is turned back. The accessories are: a French flannel shirt (always a man’s shirt) in natural color or light gray, a yellow kersey vest, black leather boots, black derby, white gloves, hunting or beagle whip. The edges of this coat and that at the top of page 1 1 3 meet ail the way down.

Habits for side-saddle riding are never qu'te as informal in appearance as astride habits. Even the habit at the top of page 1 1 3 , which is far from touching the degree of elegance of the show habits, has quite an air of its own. It is intended for country riding and consists of a skirt of tan Bedford cord and a coat of brown and white homespun. The vest is preferably of the same material as the coat or may be of an inconspicuous tan and brown check to tone in with it, so as not to give the effect of too many colors and fabrics. The derby is Ijrown, the boots lirown calf, the shirt, with its combination collar, of pongee or natural color silk to give a one-color harmony to the whole, the gloves brown dogskin,


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 117

All hats from K N O X

Overcoat from N A R D I

For full descriptions of the accessories on these two

pages see page ifS .

tlie tie a quiet, harmonizing color, perhaps brown with a narrow yellow diagonal stripe.

Just about the least formal thing one may wear in tlie sidc-saddlc is the pongee suit for hot weatlicr shown on page 1 1 3 . This always looks fresher and neater than linen or crash. The coat is somewhat cut away in front for additional coolness and has only one button. With it is worn a man's panama liat (or a leghorn weave is permissible), tan boots, a white shirt, and chamois gloves. Even warm weatlier does not allow one to omit gloves.

When it comes to astride habits tliere are not die same nicely marked degrees of formality. Breeches never have the same air of formalitj' as the skirt and

one does not so often see them at shows and oigaii- ized hunts. The conventional and usual habits are sliowii on page 1 1 5 ; the less seen styles on page 1 1 4 . Since astride riding is a less formal affair, less formal materials, less formal cuts of the coat, and more frequent use ot combinadons of material are appropriate. One would never wear, for example, a coat and breeches of black melton cloth, and certainly not a coat cut like any of those on page m — nodiing approaching men’s evening clothes in style. These astride habits ate not supposed to be worn in the evening or for show purposes. This has gi\-en rise to a problem. What is the woman to wear when showing, who only {Concluded on page ts8 )


118H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

A Romance o f Present-day

E ngland Involving a Dynam ic Geiiius

and a Beautiful W im an

R E A l

B y W i L i . l AM J . L o c k e

I l l u s t r a t e d hy H e n r y Ra l e i g h“ Sir Victor rose, and holding her witk his bright eyes said very quietly: ‘ I t ’s no use your struggling against Fate, Paula.’ ”

P r e v i o u s P a r t s o f t h e S t o r y i n B R i E r ;

A SLIGHT acquaintance witli Sit Victor Pandolfo was developing into a rather disquieting intiftiacy which Paula Field found

herself strangely unable to check. He was an inventor— quite a personage, in fact— working at the time on a marvelous metal which was to revolutionize industry, and which he at once named Paulinium, It was a tribute to her, and yet he took her acceptance of it so maddeningly for granted that it amounted almost to effrontery.

Hewas an extraordinary person—egotistical, domineering, impetuous—with a most amazing faculty for giving, and Paula seemed powerless to refuse his gifts. A botanist acquaintance at Rones-les-Eaux— whence PandoUo had followed Paula and her friend. Lady Demeter— described a beautiful wildflower, found only on the most dangerous mountain slopes, and Paula expressed a careless desire to see it. Instantly Pandolfo pledged himself to bring her one, despite her protests and the botanist’s warnings.

Absent the following day, Pandolfo returned late in the evening with the promised flower in his liand, but badly injured. It meant a trained nurse and several weeks in bed. Pandolfo fretted under this enforced inaction. He had arrived at R«nes-les- Eaux with wonderful plans for Paula’s entertainment, which his accident had compelled him to surrender. But during one of Paula's Infrequent visits to his sick-room, he declared his feelings for her, practically demanding that she marry him.

And then Paula had a distressing letter from her father in England—a tale of much affliction. Unwise speculation had so depleted his rather limited fortune that he would be unable to continue his allowance to her, and there was danger of the mortgages being foreclosed. Obeying a wicked impulse, Paula announced to Lady Demeter and Pandolfo that her father had had a great stroke of luck, and that she was joining him at once. She confessed later to Lady Demeter, and admitted that she was

really running away from Pandolfo. The man’s insistence was getting on her nerves.

And so, on the following day. perhaps more in a spirit of desperation than anything else, she drove over to Aix and promised to marry Sit Spencer Babington. an old suitor who had just been appointed Minister to one of the new Eastern States. Paula had a little guilty twinge when she and Sir Spencer drove back to Renes-les-Eaux. What she had done had liardly been sporting. Really she had shirked things, but, after all, Pandolfo had been making her life miserable; it had to stop, and certainly she had stopped it by most effective methods.

-And then Pandolfo sent for her and announced that he know the truth about her father, that he was prepared to take over the mortgages on her old home, and turn them over to her as part of her marriage settlement. The man’s presumption was so astounding, so exasperating, that Paula forgot his illness, foi^ot the accident suffered, after all, for her, and defiantly announced to him her engagement to Sir Spencer.

F i t i h P a r t

P.AUL.A sat by tie morning-room window of Chadford Park looking at the pale pearl of tlie

November sky against which the damp yellow trees glimmered mournfully. Yellow leaves strewed the lawn and the damp graveled paths; one ot two stuck dismally on the body of a female statue, giving her the appearance ot a disarranged or absent-minded Eve. The prospect before Paula was informed with peculiar melancholy, suggestive of Tennysonian Moated Granges and decaying woods and dreary gleams and the approaching end of all things. Instead of half a dozen gardeners to tidy up the place, there only remained one and a half, old Simkin and a boy. Old Simkin was hard put to it to keep the kitchen garden going. To the boy the sweeping up

and carrying away in a wheelbarrow of dead leax’es was the most loathsomely futile form of human activity.

Paula was alone, writing, with a silk shawl thrown over her shoulders. A wood fire on the opposite side of the great room smoldered sulkily, as though the damp of hopelessness had sunk into its soul. Faded chintz covers on sofas and chairs loomed disconsolate in the half light. Here and there discolored patches of wall proclaimed removal of pictures.

An old Great Dane rose shivering from the hearthrug and loped cteakingly up to her, thrust his head under her arm as she wrote, and appealed to her from his patient topaz eyes. She fondled his head and spoke, as one who knows the moods of dogs, the words that he desired to hear. Whereupon, consoled. he creaked away, and, with a sigh, floundered back into a circle in front of the fire.

A few moments afterwards, with much the same lope and creak, entered Pargiter, the old butler, once a very fine figure of a man, with letters on a salver. As she took them, she noticed that his cnat- cuff was frayed. This most trivial of facts irritated her. Ruin was descending on Chadford Park; but there was no reason for Pargiter to dress the part of faithful and decayed retainer. His wages had not been lowered. Mr. Veresy had not even given him notice. Like all the rest of them, hehad, notoriously, put something by. Out of ftfolman’s livery from the past five and twenty years, he had found, as became a butler’s dignity and income, his own clothes. She decided that the pathos of the frayed sleeve was rather cheap.

“ The young person from the vicarage is here, ma’am.”

“ I ’Useeherinafewminutes. I ’ll ring.”She sighed. The young person in question recom

mended by the vicar’s wife had vast ambitions, apparently, to see the world, but not experience in the craft of ministering to the intimate wants of


f o r A P R I L 1 0 2 5 119

“ MyriUla stood tragically in front o f Patda, worked into a rare passion, so that her withered beauty started into intense loveliness.' 'You. throw away God’s gifts as i f they were nothing.’ she cried.”

ladies. Her father was a once respectable carpenter, with half a dozen children, who had lately forsaken God-fearing ways for a Bolshevist and alcoholic path.

“ I must have a maid-servant of some kind," Paula had said, and this was all the attendant she

. could get-Simkin had departed. For how could she afford

the Simkin wages? Old Simkin had not been quite tiie feudal altruist she had made him out to be. There had been an affecting scene. The old man, with tears in his eyes, had protested—as fat as Paula could gather— that, were it not for the price of pork, he would have died rather than allow his daughter to leave Miss Paula’s service. But the price of pork (and other things) was that turrible— So Simkin had melted away into an Americo-ducal firmament, whence she wrote letters as politely rueful as those of honest Ovid from his exile among the Gotlis.

C O M ANY things hadmelted away during the past ^ two months. The fiat in Basil Mansions, let furnished to a queer rich bachelor from Kettering. The vivid country house life which usually filled her autumns. Not that tliere had been lack of the customary invitations; but maid-less, autumn-kit- less, hesitating at the prospect of expensive jour

neys, tips, bridge-iosses and all the incidental costs of fasMonable visiting, she had declined on the grounds of her father’s health. These vain amenities of life had melted away. So had Clara Deraeter.

It would take a miniature epic to describe the comfortable lady’s furj- at Paula’s preposterous behavior. No sooner had she reconciled herself to Paula’s turning down of I ’ictor Pandolfo and her acceptance of Spencer Babington, than the irresponsible woman goes off and leaves the three of them there, at RSnes-les-Eaux, in the lurch. There was she, Ciara Demeter— “ I ask you, my dear, to think of i t ”—planted between two wild men— and she, an invalid, doing her cure, under doctor’s prescription of perfect rest for exhausted nerves.

“ Until you come to your senses, Paula,” wrote the indignant lady, “ I don’t see how I can have anything more to do with you. We should only quarrel, which besides being undignified is bad for my health. Already I ’ve been so worried that the cure lias done me no good. I have put on weight, instead of losing it, A sure sign.”

And with Lady Dcmeter had melted Spencer Babington, not into Czccbo-Sloi-akia but into the blue inane of the Pacific. Another fellow, it seemed, had been sounded as to Prague, and not having hedged round the matter with such necessary diplomatic cautions and reservations, had been ap

pointed. Spencer, applying for leave, had gone off on a world trip in the height of spiritual dudgeon and physical comfort. He had tried to persuade Demeter to accompany him. But Clara liad put her foot down,

“ Because you’ve lost a wife— that’s no reason wliy I should lose a husband.”

That settled it. .U1 this was told to Paula in letters ever renunciatory of friendship. It was right, said Clara, that she should know. She did not defend herself. '\\'hat was the use? She could take a man’s humorous view of her sex and recognize its granitic inconvindbility.

^ Y E N Pandolfo seemed to have undergone the same process of vaporization. She had received

news of him from Nurse Williams leading a life ot miid riot in Bodmin where, apparently, her new clothes had almost shut respectable doors, to say nothing of those of the church, against her. “ No one will believe,” said she, in the playful way of the spinster secure of reputation, “ that I came by them honestly.” As for Sir Victor, his ribs had mended beautifully very soon after ^tr5. Field’s departure from Renes-les-Eaux, and he had gone straight back to London with Mr. Uglow and herself, had insisted on her staying a night or two in his beautiful home in Chelseaand had then (Continued on pageiz6)



P A C K A R DM A R M O N

I f the day is chilly and raw we sally forth in the Packard limousine, for Toto loves to sit like a most pap er footman in Ike front seat. I f we have no luggage to speak o f a?id want to be just by ourselves our Marmon coupe is the thing.

A nd i f we wa nl to cut a very swanky figure on the road wc tell James to bring the Cadillac— the very new Le Baron sedan in thistle green and gray and upholstered in clear gray.

SPRING CALLS

FOR THE OPEN AIR IN THE

COUNTRY WHITHER WE

RIDE FORTH C A D I L L A C


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 121

D O D G E P I E R C E - A R R O W

I f the day is clear aud warm and the whole fam ily wishes to go along we bundle up well and drive in the Pierce-Arrow, but i f Aunt Elizabeth doesn't insist upon coming and bringing all the children we can take our smart Dodge roadster.

. Ind i f the sun has already begun to set before we have finally started we ring for the Locomobile sedan— we always feel so safe and comfortable in this splendid, dependable car.

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f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 123


B ’' A P R I L 1 9 2 5 125

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the prettiest tim e o f the year. A bouquet and a flavor o f exquisite charm . In this dainty soup, the clear m eat broth contains you n g carrots and w hite turnips cu t in small fancy shapes, celery, S a v oy cabbage, w hole small peas, parsley and a touch o f leek.

u lenne Still another “ banquet so u p ” which en joys its vogue fo r those

social occasions where the m ost is expected . In this soup the vegetables— you n g carrots, w hite turnips, celery, S avoy cabbage, lettuce and leek— are shredded into the clear m eat broth. W h ole small peas add their co lor and flavor. There is fresh parsley, and a touch o f on ion gives an added piquancy.

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{Continued from page no)

sent her off with an astonishing check and a first-class return ticket to Cornwall.

Indirect news had also come to her from Gregory Uglow. In a letter from London, addressed to Basil Mansions and forwarded thence, he thanked her very courteously for her kindness to him in Renes, also gave ^tis- factory tidings of Sir Victor’s ribs, and placw his devoted services ever at her disposal. She replied and sent her kind regards to Sir Victor, who up to now had not acknowledged the message. In fact, Pandolfo had taken no further heed of her existence; which in one way was a comfort, but in another an insult. Very . reasonably, according to her sex’s psychology, she nursed a grievance against Pandolfo.

The only persons who gave no sign of melting were Myrtilla and her father, especially the latter, whose portliness increased in inverse ratio to his fortunes. A man addicted to the exercise habit for many years, he now suffered from its forced abandonment. He had given up his golf club, sold his stable and shrank from wandering round his neglected estate. Now and again he went up to London, driving to the station in the one surviving rattletrap of a car, and there transacted mysterious busmess. But that wasn’t exercise. His friend the vicar, a stalwart and affluent contemporary, found a birthday opportunity of presenting him with a complicated set of poles and cross-beams and rings and India- rubber ropes and a manual as to their use, written in three languages. -A quarter of an hour a day at this, said the vicar, would make him as fit as a whole day’s hunting. But Mr. Veresy had arrived at such a stage of moral atrophy as to declare that if he couldn’t hunt, it didn’t matter to him whether he were fit or not. So he watched his girth grow with a kind of morbid satisfaction. It served the world right for treating him so unjustly.

■‘ Wflien a man’s ruined,” said he, “ the only thing left for him to do is to face it like a gentleman.”

Mr . v e r e s y sat down in his library, pid at meals in his dining-room, did nothing,

and faced ruin like a gentleman.Myrtilla, an angular and elderly model upon

•whom it might have been supposed that Paula in her magnificence had been fashioned, had ruthlessly cut down household expenses, discharged a r^ment of men, and sold horses and pictures in order to provide for daily necessities of living. She fod put the fear of the Putney flat into her father’s soul. Rather than the Putney fiat, he would inhabit the meanest room at Chadford and live on tripe and onions cooked there in a saucepan. He didn’t mind hardship; but he cojildn’t stand Putney.

“ He’s quite impossible, my dear, said Myrtilla. “ If I hadn’t insisted on the money for tfo pictures and the horses being paid into my private banking account, I don’t know what would have happened to us. And what will happen I know less. We can’ t Iwe on pictures and horses for the rest of our lives.”

“ But what about the mortgagees' foredos- iiig?” asked Paula. “ If they do, we’ll be turned out neck and crop.”

Well, the mortgagees, as far asMyrlilla could judge, had been temporarily appeased. How, she did not know. She had gone herself into Gloucester to see Bulstrode. Bulstrode & Co. had been the family solidtors from time immemorial. Old Bulstrode, the delightfullest old ttoig in the world, had died, as Paula knew, a couple of years ago, and a young Bulstrode, a perky young man who magnified his office, reigned in his stead. Not a word could Myrtilla get out of him.

“ My dear lady,” he had begun. Myrtilla hated the jackanaping of a form of address only tolerable in far dliFerent social condition. "M y dear lady.” said he, “ I am Mr. Veresy’s confidential adviser. It is evident, therefore, that I cannot discuss matters that are confidential as between sohdtor and client with you, unless you bring me Mr. Veresy’s assurance that you are entirely in his con-, fidence."

Myrtilla, narrating tie interview, said: “ And he swung back in his swivel-chair and put his pudgy finger-tips together, and looked at me out of his fishy little eyes—and I could have killed him.”

A' ND the devil of it all was, according to Myrtilla, that Mr. Veresy would give no

such assurance. He had the obstinate secrc- tiveness of the weak roan. Even though he faced, like a gentleman as he declared, the ruin brought about by his own folly, and gave up to Myrtilla the whole responsibility of dealing ■with such ruin as far as it afiected the household, he denied the feminine mind’s capacity of dealing with its higher financial aspects. His dear Myrtilla’s criticisms could not be helpful in that they would be based on misapprehension of facts and erroneous judgment.

"So here we are, living from hand to mouth, and that’s all I know about it.”

Thus Myrtilla, mistress of Chadford Park.

How could Paula, younger daughter and, by theoretic convention of marriage, cut ofl from practical concern with her father's affairs, interfere with any hope of success?

In the queer, detached old English way they loved ea<i other dearly- Once she had come to Chadford to discuss the situation and offer her filial sympathy, he would not let her go, Indeed, by means of furtive little caresses, when no one was looking, and a shy word of endearment, he gave her to understand that she was the favorite daughter. Never a hint did he give of disloyally or ingratitude toward Myrtilla. He was too great a gentleman openly to differentiate between them. But unregenerate man resents in his h^it excess of female virtue especially when it is r^eemed by somewhat of a domineeiinc spirit. He loved Myrtilla with the affection due to tbe offspring of his dear and respected wife and to the capable manager of his establishment; but Paula he adored with scrupulously veiled adoration.

Knowledge of the fact was a matter of elementary intuition. It distressed her inconceivably. What had she done for her father save leave him at the first opportunity, while Myrtilla had sacrificed youth and womanhood and ail that mattered to woman to his comfort? The injustice of life! Yet,nowand again, when the three of them were seated at the table in the intimacy of their fallen fortunes, she felt nearer to him by reason of her wider sympathies and experience of the worU than the precise Myrtilla, with her almost algebraic conception of life. He was a handsome man, in his florid way; with thick, curly, neatly cut hair, parted in tlie middle, just as he wore it as a young dragoon, althoi^h now snow-white, and a white mustache curling up at the ends with just the faintest swaggering suggestion- In him she recognized her own beautifully cut features and the twist of an ironical mouth. And they would exchange little jests together at which Myrtilla sniffed resignedly.

Yet, in spite of this undercurrent of inutu.i! understanding, she foimd herself as much shut off as Myrtilla from his business confidence- He deplored his inability to continue her allowance. Sometimes he could kick himself from here to the Infernal regions as the meanest skunk alive But his dear old girl must see how he was tied hand and foot. The restraint of liis feet, Paula declared, was a blessing in di uise, in so much as it precluded the carrying out of his rash inclination. He patted her shoulder- She was a brick to take it that way. Well, that was the situation- The scoundrel, Monte Dangerfield, was at the bottom of it all. Why the fellow had not long before this been pitched out of tlie city into one of His Majesty’s gaols, he had no conception. On generalities of the past he was eloquent; on particulars of the present he was as dumb as an oyster.

“ There are signs, my dear, that things may not be so bad as one dreaded. -At any rate the roof of Chadford is still over our heads. If it tumbles in on top of us, wc three’ll have the satisfaction of being buried together. I know it’s devilish dull for you; but if you can make do with hash and rice pudding. I'll be grateful.”

As to the nature of the signs, he gave no idea. Paula could not question him, anymore than he could question her on her private affairs. When she came to think of it, her owe reticence very fairly balanced his. Not a whisper did she breathe at Chadford Park ol the pursuit of Pandolfo or her transient engagement to Spencer Babington. The very names never stined the stagnant air.

SUCH was the situation on that November afternoon,

Paula, sitting under the cold radiation ol the great window, drew her silk wrap clos around her shoulders and shivered. She leaned back in her chair and took stock of life. There was enough desolation in front of her and about her to make a silly woman sit up and howl like a dog- But she prided herself on not being a silly woman. . . - .An old aunt of her childhood, still living in the odor of lavender,used to say; “ My dear, when thingsloos very lilack for us, there is nothing so wise as to count up our mercies.” Paula smiled at the remembrance of the sweet and prim philo^ phy; but she counted all the same. And she came to the conclusion that she was not the least bit in tho world unhappy. At the worst turn of Fortune’s wlieel, she was assured ol ■bed, food and raiment adequate to inclemency of climate. She was living, for the present at any rate, in her childhood’s home, sleepmE in her own room consecrated by bow many girlish hopes and fears, Myrtilla loved her in a dry sisterly fashion. Perhaps more than Myrtilla allowed herself to reveal. Now and then, during the past two or three months, had been vaguely suspicious of possible smoldering fires behind her elder sisters calm and calculating eyes. Hitherto, in the triumph of her beauty and her wide existence

(Continued on page is8)


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 127

( H E difference between the natural iridescence o f the true Tecla Pearl and the artificial glitter o f the imitation is precisely the same as the difference be

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(Conlinued from page isS)

A N N O U N C IN GA C O M P L E T E C O L L E C T I O N OF

H A TS F R O M PA R IS

she had given little more than comfortable thought to Myrtiila. Now, she reflected that their life-long relations had never been shadowed by a cloud of jealousy or misunderstanding. hlyrtilla had always stood there, coldly affectionate, undemonstrative, ever capable, ever helpful, ever almost scientifically gentle. . . . Was it not more than possible that great love stirred the passionate depths that the woman kept sternly hidden from mankind?

Of course there had been the inevitable man. Paula was at school abroad at the time and had pieced together imperfect scraps of information. But the composite result was

I enough to tell her that there had been an en- I gagement; that tbe young gentleman, the I other party to the contract, had been swooped ' down upon by another young gentleman’s wife and carried off to Ceylon- Hence rupture of engagement, divorce, a damnably exas- petatingly happy marriage of the abominable pair and the landing high and dry of Myrtiila, His name, Paula remembered, was Buddi- combe; he came of an old Devonshire family, and now he was a Member of Parliament, an old Tory, upholder of Church and State and a shining light in the House of Laymen. But of all this the reserved Myrtiila had never spoken a word. Yet, inside her, Paula felt assured, smoldered the hidden fires aforesaid. They were a queer, reticent lot, the Veresj's.

And there was her father whose affection, though unexpressed, was obvious-

YES, there were a host of mercies to be counted up. Splendid health was one of

them. The peace, perfect peace of the hymn was riot compart with tbe restfulness of Chadford. Like other factors in life possibly to he regretted, worries had melted away. She went to bed not caring what the dull morrow might bring forth. She awoke not apprehensive of some brutal sign of a man’s would-be domination. She was free of Pan- dolfo; free of Spencer Babington. She felt inclined to agree with her late maid, Simkin, that men spelled nothing but trouble.

Here perhaps you see pursued nymph or primitive woman panting in the security of forest recess at last regained, her hands on her heart.

No analogy of the kind suggested itself to the sophisticated mind of Paula Field. She had escaped from pursuers and that was enough for her. As for hands on panting heart—her heart beat with perfect normality.

She welcomed the peace and quiet and the piastery of her time. She could get on with her work which, however one may despise the sordid, meant money. Her articles in the women’s journals had always been the es^ys of a woman of the world and not the jottings of a fashionable reporter. She carried on with the county side of social aBairs. And also, greatly daring, she began another novel.

She had been writing for an hour or two, not overjoyously inspired by outer things, yet accepting them with a melancholy content, when Pargiter had entered with news of the young person from the vicarage and the letters on the salver. These, after a spell of reverie she took up idly, as a recluse for whom the great world has ceased to be of vivid interest. It seemed the usual budget of scrawls from friends telling of gay cloin^ and reproaching or pitying her for non-partidpa- tion, two or three tradesmen’s envelopes containing bills or receipts and a few circulars. Yet when she gave them her closer attention, she noticed one envelop addressed in a not unfamiliar nervous handwriting- She opened it and read;'Dear Mrs. Field:

• T AM requested by Sir Victor to make his L profound apologies for the non-delivery

of your promised ’ Paulinium’ car. He begs you to believe that it has not been through lack of consideration on his part, delay, in the first place, being due to his anxiety that nothing short of perfection should be offered to you. And now I am to say, with his sincerest regret, that another six months, at least, must elapse before the car, as he desires it to be, can be delivered. Unfortunately when tho severe tests came to be made, a few flaws here and there appeared in the meul which would make the cat unsafe. He begs me to remind you that after all, the meUl a few months ago was only in the experimental stage. He has discovered to what causes these flaws were due and has taken steps to remedy them in new forgings. But, to his immense disappointment, he has had to scrap your chassis, and so he asks me to crave your gracious indulgence for a few necessary months.

Yours sincerely.Gregory Uglow.”

The envelop contained also a shy scrap of paper."Dear Mrs. Field:

“The enclosed is written, as you may gather, according to instructions. I had to submit

it for his approval- But really he is almost heartbroken over his failru-e. h'orgive me if I am outrageously impertinent when I say that 1 know a kind little word Irom you would cheer him enormously. G. U.”

At dinner that evening, a none too sumptuous meal, though served with ancient solemnity by I’argiter of the frayed coat-crifis, Mr. Veresy turned to liis younger daughter.

“ My dear Paula, do you know a man called Pandolfo?”

She started. She had been thinking of nothing but the obsessing man for the past five boiirs.

“ Sir Victor Pandolfo? Yes, I know him." “ Why didn't you teil me before?”Said Paula with a smile; “ I suppose I know

about a thousand people, more or less. Why should I pick him out for special mention?"

“ He seems to bo a dam' good fellow,” said Mr. Veresy, curling his white mustache. “ There are only the three of us, and I think you ought to know how things are. Well—it comes to this. I've met Pandolfo in London— quite recently. Business, yott know. As a matter of fact, he has bought up all the-mortgages and is now sole mortgagee and is letting me down very easily and generously. I told you a week or two ago that things might be on the ttim. It was only this morning that I heard he was a friend of yours.” In answer to Paula’s look of inquiry he went on confidentially. “ It was young Bxflstrode, if you wi b to know, I don’t like the chap—not a patch on his father—but still he's a shrewd man of business. Oh, yes, my dear. Don’t make any mistake. There are few brick wall* that—1 grant you—rather objectionable young man can’t see through. He has been working on his own to find out things about Pandolfo. And it turns out that he’s a great friend ol yours. Charming fellow. Small world, isn’t it?”

The florid gentleman of the thick white hair part^ accurately down the middle smiled at his daughters with bland innocence.

“ You say you met Sir Victor, on business?" said Paula, “ Didn’t he mention the fact that he knew me? He was quite aware that I belonged here.”

“ No. That's the funny part about it, said Hr. Veresy. “ And yet, 1 don’t know,.A gentleman doesn’t mbt up business affairs with social relations. . . . -A delightful fellow,”

“ It’s a curious coincidence that he should have bought up the mortgages, isn't it? ” s.oid Paula-

“ The more one lives, my dear, the less is one struck by coincidences. I can tell you a dozea off-hand—I remember in '84 or ’8s—no—it was 1886—”

Jle wandered off into an inapposite tale to which Paula listened with dutiful eyes, but with ears bewilderingly dosed.

Gr e g o r y u g lo w , writing according toinstructions, had given but a poor ac

count of the disaster that had befallen the Paulinium car. It had neatly been the death of the three of them, Pandolfo, Uglow, and tlic chauffeur. The chassis and engine responded to all kinds of tests. It ran up the famous hill in Hampstead on top gear, as though it were coasting down a slope. It did an incredible number of miles an hour at Brooklands- The miniature boudoir of a limousine body invented by Pandolfo was fitted. They went a-testing springs and balance along the Portsmouth road. 'Then, suddenly, somewhere neat Cobham, something happened. The cai danced roimd and round as though drunk and turned a somersault into a ditch. The chauffeur, miraculously thrown clear, opened the topmost door and hauled out Pandolfo and Uglow, considerably bruised.

“ What the.devil—?” cried Pandolfo.“ The cardan shaft, sir,” said tbe chauffeur

"There must have been a Saw in the metal.“ A flaw?” Pandolfo stared at him as

though he had spoken blasphemy.“ It’s the one and only way of accounting

for it,” said the chauffeur.A very sober, dangerous looking PantloHo

returned with Uglow in a hired car to London. All he said on the homeward way was:

“ I wonder what I ’ve done to God that Jia should be against me.” ,

Pot the next few days he went about, tnc picture of ferocious gloom, like a modern Lucifer doing battle with the Almigntj Powers. For, when the poor wreck was towoi into the Bermondsey works and the ahatterea body removed, the cause of the accident jw* only too horribly clear. The cardan shalt na snapped like a bit of brittle wood. Thesv tions of the fracture showed the flaw. was that all. The shock of tlie fall, magniW by the weight of the body, had played m almost incomprehensible devil with the rest the metal work. The back axle had snapl*' ; too- There was one crack in the petrol t»" and another in the cylinder casings. It came obvious to the inventor and his scar

{Coniiniied on page 13 0 )


j o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 129


II A R P E R ' S B A Z A l130

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lieutenant tliat, at its present stage of development, Paulinium could not supersede steel in the making of motor-car engines.

■'Scrap the lot,” said Pandolfo, to ms manager in the dismal shed. “ I see what’s wrong.

Whether he did or not, no roan can say; perlmps least of all Pandolfo himself.

TVROM the moment of his arrival in Kngknd •V he had started furiously to work. The Paulinium Steel Company—his fellow dtrectors had prevailed on him to accept this new designation of the metal, so as to inspire pubhc c o n f i d e n c e , — had been floated. A Staffordshire site, near the coal-mines, had been bought for the erection of vast works, which now had already been begun. He had triurapted over opposition, he had crashed through oil obstacles. He had worked, as Gregory Uglow. perhaps more loyal than original in phrase, said, Napoleonically. And side by side witn tiieh u ge con cep tion o f th e P a u lin iu m W o rk s , w imits infinite detml of plans, of plant, of ready sources of ores and their easy transport, ot choosing and salarying and housing metaiwr- eical chemists, of inventing, parentlieticaliy, a cooking-stove heated by waste that would cook a thousand meals at once, ran the tiMce desire to give Paula Field the earth s perfection of automobiles-

At the announcement of her enragemml to Spencer Babington he had laughed m sulilime certainty of knowledge. At her surnmary casting off of his dry rival he had smued witn sattsfaction. He had consented to sit at the feet of Lady Demeter.

“ M y d ea r m an .” she said, “ g iv e the w on u m a ch a n ce . M a k e h er lo o k o n y o u as a necessity instead o f a n u isan ce .’ ’

■'.■V n u isa n ce?”“ Yes. If you’ll forgive roe saying so, a

damned nuisance. You’ve gone the wrong way to work.” . . . . n“ I've been accustomed to get what 1 want, said Pandolfo. , , , . ,

“ But a w om a n isn ’ t a ‘ w h at, s h c s a ’ w h o ,’ w h ich m ak es a ll th e d ifierence, said L a d y D em eter . _ , . , v

She d id n o t la ck co u r i^ e . H e a dm ired her; con fessed to h er shedd ing u p o n h im a new lig h t; insin uated d e lica te ly th a t she c o u n s e l^ stra tegy ra th er th an m assed a tta ck in fron t form ation . . , ...

•‘ IVe nearly exhausted myself m telling you>” repUed Lady Demeter- ,

That was why Pandolfo took up his str^ tegic position ondistant heights, and gave to his enemy no sign of his existence. He obtained, hcovever. Nurse TOUiams’ confirmation ot Lady Deraetet’s advice, when she passed through London on her way back from her Bodmin holiday. She had a half-scared meal with him in the museum that was his diningroom, Gregory Uglow having been sent off to lunch at his dub, suffered all sorts of frank opinions to be torn out of her, like some medieval Jew yielding teeth to the tortmer of a prominent baton, before she disclosed all she divined, felt or knew of the feminine psychology of Paula Field.

“ A woman doesn't only want to be wanted, but she wants to want. That sounds rather muddled, but you see what I mean?”

“ I d o ,” said he. . .“ And I shouldn’t let her have any idea of

the mortgtês, if I were you,” she added.“ In a d v isa b le , e h ? ”“ Fatal.” ^“ I 'E see w h a t ca n b e d on e , sa id he-So he made secrecy a condition m his nego

tiations for the purchase of the mortgages, and on his meeting with Mr. Veresy gave no hint of his acquaintance with any member of tnc family.

F .I WAS the time of his life at which he rode

* the highest, in the full blaze of Fortune. The companies which ran his various inventions flourishii exceedingly. He held himself to be a man of solid wealth. Beyond the acquisition of a picture now and then, he had few expensive tastes. The pictures themwlvK were investmcTits. He lived modestly. Work absorbed the vital energy that might have found an outlet in the costlier vices. When his solicitor questioned the sagacity of his proposal to buy up the Cliadford Park mortgages, in view of the large sums he was pouring into the Paulinium Steel Company, he replied airily;

"M y dear fellow, I ’ve got money to burn.Again the solicitor protested. If Mr. Ver

esy could not pay the interest to the then mortgagees, how did he himself expect to be paid?

“ Did you ever hear of a Guardian Angel?"Not outside of Heaven or a lunatic

„ -J T, J It"Well, you see-one now, said Pandollo. “ What does the trumpery interest matter tome?” , .

He soared away on newly invented wings. The imiê delighted him. Hitherto he Imd not crystallized his idea so perfectly. He would be her Guardian Angel, working for ber from the impenetrability of the Vast Inarm, shielding her from harm, answering from the

void her unspoken prayers. He rejoiced in colossal self-conception. Instead of being tig damned nuisance of Lady Demeter’s trencb- ant homily, he would become a transcendental and mystical protective power of whicli slg should be unconscious.

After a while, he chafed at the lack of piac. tical means of performing these angelic ministrations. The only thing that money couli do be had done. Besides, the artist idealist in him despised money. Purchase, for him ivhc- had the means, was so easy. On the tableti his studio-library-laboratory, the great ociag- onal room into which Gregory Uglow been led from the Chelsea F-mbankmem Inv week by week, the pertly covered, iiui ii ■. ous journal of frivolity to which site cvmrig uted her weekly article. This he read ds voutly. It was ever like herself, deji- headwi. kind, witty in the grand manner.

“ How much do you think they p.-iy her lot it? ” he asked one day.

Gregory Uglow suggested, fairly accurately, the rate.

Pandolfo swore it was monstrous exploitation of genius. Sweated labor.

“ I ’ve a good mind to buy up tlie rotteii magazine and pay decent prices to contributors,” he declared.

But there again, it was only the power ■, money—even if he could have afforded to commit the idiotic act. His brain, at lasi, hii gripped the truth that her chance realizaliMt in the future, of pecuniary indebtedness lo- ward him, would alienate her from him Iot- ever. It was money, money all the ting; exasperatingly money. He held it only jus that she should possess shares in the compam to which she had given her name. But how 1 give them to her and the consequent enjoj- mcnt therefrom, without her knowledge?

“ How the devil can I do it?”Gregory Uglow, very tmcomfortably ul

despairingly up to the lips in his conlidentt said:

“ The only way I can sec is to make noj beneficiary under your will.”

“ I’ve done it,” cried Pandolfo. Do ym think I ’m 'devoid of imagination? Of coin*. I’ve made my will. She and you are the onl! people in the world I care for. Youie pro vided for. She gets the rest.”

Th is particular conversation took place ■ the miserable threadbare sitting-i<'"Hi ■■

the miserable Staffordshire hotel ncaresl lult site of the Paulinium Steel AVorks, where ms were spending the night. Outade it wasil. wind and mud and coal-smoko and dcpres'ua Save for the mud, it was more or less the inside. He loved to descend unexpecteiily ici tear about the place with Uglow foUowiijg tr like a recording shadow. The hotel’s gre, ■ food and coarse discomfort affected him vcr. little. Ordinarily he was too exuberant v,,. new schemes for alterations and _iiv,prc« ments, but to-day’s visit had shown JusUeu level of ptogtes-s, with not a jagged bit for eager mind to seize upon- So he satwu Gregory over a sullen fire in a ingt oP fasWonedgrate and talked of what, to mm, the ever personal aspect of Paulinium- „

“ That’s very kind of you, Sir Victor, sr the young man, after a pause. “ Ineedn tsj that such a thing never entered my hen But I wish you’d cut me out.’’

“ Eh? ” cried Pandolfo. Why?“ I should feel more independent, rr)'-“'

Uglow awkwardly. .Pandolfo took up the poker and luns«

the fire. . . . .“ My God! Here’s another of em. to.

a man do anything for a fellow human O'’; ture without trampling on his susttptmnili' Independent! Why the deuce do you to be any more independent th^ youj; already? You’re free. I haven t bougnn j You can go out now, any day, and earn ava the money I give you.”

Gregory mterrupted him quickly, couldn’t earn all die other things you C

' " “ Then why are you driveling about pendence? You give me to infer that W;,', Mme sort of a bond—friendship, sym|S- uiiderstanding, loyalty, whatever you call it, between us, which means more w. than money. Well, darm it I for gmnted. Do you think 1 d diac^ personal feelings with any other Urtli?” He rose, poker hand, and s about the gas-ht room. That s ^been talking about. Tlic something tha money. It has been in other, to give it to you., And you re flu fied. You want to be absurd- Don’t let me hear anythmS

th rew th e p ok er in to th e fender

your w U l-t^ money—” Gregory lârded.see, i t crop s u p aga in .’ ’ _ , ^ j

“ What on earth will it matter wtdead?” >

{C onliniied on page r j2 )


T A P R I L 1 9 2 5 131

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E A R P E R ' S B A Z A l

W l

CaifforniaSPOBTS H A T S‘Town and C ountiy

“ Nothing. But it will matter all the time that you’re alive.”

“ Thank God!” cried Pandolfo, “ my mother wasn’t a lineal desccndent of prehistoric Scottish Kings.”

Gregory laughed. “ It isn’t that.”“ Then what is it?”Gregory sighed. “ I’m afraid I cant ex-

plain.” , ,“ Are you afraid that your loyHty can t

stick it out for the ton, fifteen, thirty, Jorty years of the life that may be before me?

Gregory grew pale. How could he explain the inexplicable? There was a moment of tense silence during which he felt as though the two men’s souls were at death grapple. The suHen layer of coal raised a while ago by Pandolfo’s poker, fell with a crash. Bothstarted. , . . . „“ No man can be loyal unless he is tree, said Gregory. , v j

Pandolfo broke away with a laugh anda wide gesture.

“ Well, consider yourself disinherited.“ It will be a relief to me, Sir Victor,” said

^iS'^hirt-sleeved landlord brought in the whisky and syphon that had been previously ordered, and lingered in talk while he poured out the modest drinks. When he had gone, Pandolfo said: , .

“ You and Mrs. Field are very much alike in many ways. I wonder whether you understand her better than I do.”

“ I ’ve never attempted to think of understanding her,” replied Gregory. “ I scarcely know her.” . ,

“ That’s true,” said Pandolfo. He sipped his whisky and soda. Then suddenly: Good God, what are these?”

Two pairs ot andenl and deformed cari^t slippers, worn by generations of commercial trailers, had been unostentatiously set by the landlord to warm by the fire. The lacking of the dreadful things to the other side of the room broke the thread of talk. Pandolfo took up the detective novel which he had bought at the station bookstall and Gregory sat down at the round center table and transcribed on fair paper the day’s rough penciled notes from a little black book. Later they parted for the night without reference to their conversation.

HEN the Perfect Car stood ready for the road, before the last disastrous test,

Pandolfo, still impressed by Lady Demetcr’s wisdom, devised a method of delivery. He would sacrifice his impetuous desire to dash down to Gloucestershire himself, and would send Gregory Uglow in his stead. That way lay the delicacy counseled by women. Yet when he announced his intention, the young man’s response lacked enthusiasm.

“ Short of going myself, which for my own reasons isn’t feasible, I don’t see that I coGd pay her a greater compliment than making you my representative. Or you either.”

“ Of course, if you tcE me to do it—” said Gregory. , , , „

“ I do tell you—and there s an endot it. Pandolfo, dictatorial, closed discussion. Gregory went away, heavy-hearted. Sup

pose, in anti-Pandolfo mood, she scorned the gift? What would be his own position? That he himself would receive gracious welcome he did not doubt. But he would have to plead for acceptance, and, in doing so, plead the amorous cause of his benefactor. He could see the ironic smile at the comets of her perfect lips. He could see the soft humorous eyes reading his own miserable secret. Thank Heaven, said he, he had spoken bravely about the legacy. That would have strangled his inmost and most wildly delicious thoughts. A free man he could think of her, at any rate. .A man of sense and character, he could, if left alone, check lunacy in its effect on conduct. Pandolfo was the great man and Paula was the great woman. As coldly clear as an iceberg in wind-swept weather was the fact that the two were made for each other. He was under no illusion. Ho resigned himself absolutely to their eventual and inevitable mating. But to be employed as an agent in the process was intolerable. Besides, the proposition contained an clement of medieval grotosquerie repellent to the modem spirit. So he dreaded the presentation of the car.

And even if she did not scora tlie thing, but merely fell into helpless collapse before it, asking him what in the world she was going to do with it—what could he say? His was the fantastic mission to deliver to a member of an impoverished aristocratic family a vast automobile all bright blue and silver Md satin and what-not, such as an Indian Rajah, with tastes unmodified by European experience, might have commanded for State purposes, to match his ceremonial elephants. It was glaringly out of scale with her meaiis, her position, Imr dignified modesty. Even if she could afford to pay the wages of the highly skilled man required to drive and attend to it, she would no more dream of flaunting in it about the quiet country roads than of wearing a diamond tiara on her visits to the poor.

A little homely runabout, to show the won der of Paulinium, yes; but before this thit « Oriental goigeousness his heart sank. Andii knew, that whatever she might do or say, bn lieart would sink witli his, for predscly tbi same reason. This side idolaUy he loveJ Pandolfo. Her prospective, inevitable, anj instantaneous judpnent of his hero was ialfJ. etable. She woidd not laugh in devisiim -,i other woman might; but Hie WM too cxqui» itely bred. Yet, suppose she did—he would be capable of springing at her and stranglioj her, for all his love.

And not a word of this did he dare breathe to Pandolfo. The car had been his dream, hk solace and his joy for months. Of course the engine had been fanned and the chassis liegim long before his meeting with Paula at Hinsted in the summer. It was then but a trial of tlie new metal. But when once the magic name had been discovered, the car had ceased to be a cold experiment and had become a fervhl consecration. What protest could the send, tive youth make to the enraptured giant?

Perhaps no man ever hated inanimate thingi more than did Gre^ry Uglow hate the thrab- bing monster with its long flashing bonnet and its cobalt blue limousine body, the whole oi a structure of exquisite and sensuous linei, when he waited in front of it on the pavi msrt on that last test morning, for Pandolfo to tome out of the Chelsea house. He was Ofipresied by the sense of the wrongness of its insoleot luxury.

Pandolfo ran down the steps, walked riglit round the car.

“ God! it’s good, isn’t it? Achievemetit- no. Creation—there’s nothing like it in tie world. You feel a thrill when you find you'i- begotten a child. Any damned fool can h that- But for a child of the brain, mullip; the thrill a million times. This marvel of: thing is ME.”

He laughed, dashed in his swift way into lie car; Gregory followed; the chauffeur who hsi waited ly the door, rug over arm, spread tb. rug.

Once outside the tramlines of London, lliej careered like gods. And then, all of a sudden, came the crazy catastrophe.

The feelings of few young men have more complicated than those of Gregoij Uglow, when he surveyed the complete wreck age of the great Paulinium car.

PAULA wrote at once to Pandolfo. Con kind-hearted woman do less? Indeed

betraying moisture of the eyes blurred tp: and ^en the written words. Never had sli: felt so tenderly disposed toward him as no* is his disappointment and humiliation. .‘4 gave him her spontaneous sympathy, consoW him with assurances of the perfecting of bn metal and chid him gently for his neskc: She made it clear that, with her moditi’l means, she could no more dream of the u[- keep of a large car than of that of a radn! stable- If he wished to please her, he m«5 concentrate all his energies on things gre.iln than such vanities. The fact of his giving be name to the metal was sufficient to secure I«- ever her intense interest in its developrawl

Of Bulstrode’s revelation she said nolliis? Evidently Pandolfo desired her not to kno* " the mortgage. The secret had been well kept Of course, during their last interview at ReMr les-Eaux, Pandolfo had declared his inlentut of becoming the sole mortgagee; but that d«- laration had obviously been dependent on h beautiful matrimonial scheme. That liavi® gone agley altogether, likejthe schemes of and men referred to by the poet, she had nor given the question iff the mortgages, aa It as he was concerned, a single thought, "n’ she gave it many, and many a worrying » especially when she had sealed and pustol» sympathetic letter.

she sought out her father,“ I want to know why Sir Victor P;ui(l»-'

has never referred to his acquaintaaa- indeed friendship—with me.”

“ I told you last night,” said Mr. Vensy “ You didn’t tell me enough. He must w

made some conditions of secrecy, ,Paula, standing over tte kindly wl'-'

haired gentleman, forced him to confessioa “ In a way he did- He said that such ff.i.

actions being entirely out of his way of Q ness, his name should not be mentioned o- side the little circle of people directly ested. That’s why I respected his conluiu as regards Myrtiila and yourself. It wo® “ when young Bulstrode told me you friends that I gave you the information.

She nodded and thanked him witn 0 - • and a filial pat on the shoulder and went a»; On the tip of her tongue was the quastiW'

“ You silly old dear, hasn’t it you that, just because wc were suim tnff he was anxious for not to know? ..

But it went no further. Evidently tne , had not occurred to Mr. Veresy; anu daughter was not one to disturb a quiet u with tlisconcerting suggestions-

Her own mind, however, suffereu <u='- (C oniinued o n page 13 4 )


r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 133

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I.Cotilinued from page J53I

ance For some months she had been freed from the man’s obsession. Now, more than ever, did it oppress her.

Mortgagees don’t threaten to foreclose. )! interest is paid regularly. If they want to realize their capital, they have only to sell their mortgages Iffie any other sound securities. Of this, in spite of her ordinary careless woman's ignorance of business affairs, her common sense made her aware. Some time before her father had airily annoimced an easing of difficulties. What else could that mean than one of Pandolfo’s bravura gestures?

“ My dear sir,’’ she could hear him ^ying, “ don’t have a moment’s anxiety. It is true that I have bought up the mortgages on Chad- ford which represent a capital of so many thousand pounds, and that the ordinary business man, the stranger, who has nothing to do with sentiment, expects his qimrterly 1^ : “ ’ raent of interest to be paid into his bank, through his solicitor. Pray, regard me m another light altogether. I know the straits to which our old landed families have been put since the war, and, it is far from my heart to make them straiter. It will be the great pleasure and honor of my life to allow the question of interest to be one of your power, convenience, and honor.”

Her intuition pictured fairly accurately the state of affairs. She did not know that young Bulstrode had said to her father in a moment of triumph: , .

“ Thank God, Mr. Veresy, we ve got hold ol a mug.” , , , ,

And that, her father, red as a lobster, had thumped the solicitor’s table and cried;

“ Don’t you ever say such a thing again. Thank God we’ve got hold of an honorable and chivalrous gentleman.”

That was why, in his talk with Paffia, he had called him “ a damn good fellow. She remembered his encomiums and applied themto her construction of the facts.

And only one conclusion could she draw. Pandolfo hovered like some grotesque and foolish god over the Chadford household. The three of them lived there practically under shadow of his benignity. Whatelsewas the solution? Myrtilia, as ignorant as herself of their father’s real financial standing, had been forced to sell horses and pictures, in order to provide for household expenses. Out of the proceeds she could meet these for a considerable time to come; but, whereas once Mr. Veresy talked gloomily of facing ruin like a gentleman, he now seemed to take it as the jest of a sportive Providence.

“ What’s the meaning of it?” she asked Myrtilia, whom, least of all mortals, did she desire to take into her confidence.

Myrtilia shrugged her shoulders and bade her ask Bulstrode.

SHE was on the point of taking Myrtilla’s ironical counsel when Pandolfo himself

appeared, in answer to her letter.Pargiter impressed by vast car, title and

Napoleonic authority, had, without question, divest^ him of coat, and throwing open the moming-room door, had announced;

“ Sir Victor Pandolfo.”Paula rose from her chilly window table,

where she had been writing, with a little gasp of surprise. He advanced, both hands outstretched, to greet her. He gripped hers. Pargiter dosed the door noiselessly.

“ Even more beautiful than my memories and my dreams.” said he.

She laughed. “ And you more—exotic than ever.” She freed herself and moved across the room. “ And being exotic, you must be chilled to the bone this dripping and dreary day. Come to the fire and warm yourself. Where have you come from? ”

“ Our works—the Paulinium works in Staffordshire. I go down periodically to supervise progress. . . . I thought that in ten minutes’ speech with you I could tell you more of thanks than in all the letters in the world.

She glanced at the rococo clock on the mantelpiece which marked h.alf-past twelve.

“ Ten minutes? But that’s absurd. You stay to lunch.”

" I must be in London this afternoon—and it's about a hundred miles.”

“ You stay to lunch, or not a moment do you have of my company.”

In a flash, her hand was on the knob of the door. To turn any casual visitor out fasting into the dismal sleet was unthinkable; least of all the man who had nearly broken his neck and half broken his heart for her sake. He wavered.

“ What we can give you to eat God and ttic cook only know. But. at any rate, we can kill the peacock.” ,

He made a gesture of subtmssion. She rang the bril, gave a hurried order to an invisible Pargiter and shut the door.

“ But this,” said he, "is not the day for peacocks. That day will come, with the realization of all my dreams. Oh, yes. My dreams have always included a peacock served. Renaissance style, in all its arrogance and splendor. And it shall be for you and me

alone, in the dining-room of an old Italian palace, with a beautifully vaulted ceiling aail great thick walls and embrasured windows looking over the hills of Vallambrosa.”

“ Audit will be tough and tasteless, and tin vaulted dining-room will be as cold as death, and the hills will be hidden by miserable rain. No, ray dear frienil, that is where you make your fundamental mistake. I'm not 1 romantic.”

“ I've not had the audacity to wonder what you arc,” said he. “ I only know that ilie sight of you is wonderful.”

She crossed before him and sat, thus turning her back on him for a fraction of a second. Facing him now, she motioned him to a chair.

“ I too am glad to see you, for one or tvj reasons- There’s a certain picking of bongs."

“ The Car of Misfortune! Don’t speak of it! You shall have your Paulinium car no matter what happens. And it shall be built this time to your specification. A one-seater sedan chair kind of thing—two-mouse power— which you could loam to drive in five miiiuts and would do its fifty miles a gallon and could be washed down like a perambulator by ,i hoose-maid. I’ve started work on the dc^n already and I ’ll finish it on the voyage.”

“ Voyage? ”He was forever startling her. The words

put hex for the moment off the track o( the bone to pick, which had nothing to do wilt Paulinium or the car.

“ Yes.” he cried eagerly- “ I ’ve got so many things to tell you that they’re all struggling 10 get out simultaneou.sly. I must go to Braril. The Paulinium mines—or rather the mines 01 the ore that are the secret of Paulinium are up country and want cleansing with the Fcatd God- I ’m carrying a supply with me. llTitti I come back there'll be no more flaws ui Paulinium. Not only your car but railwiy lines and battle-ships will last till the Day oi Judgment.”

“ i ’m sure of it,” she smiled. “ I know thit tremendous inventions are only periecled after infinite experiment. But do belicir tiiat I ’ve been sympathizing with you hr more than I can say."

He a s s u r e d her that her letter was bain for wounded vanity. He had pa^

through a desperate season of dcpresrioa The house in Tite Street had been a DoiibtiB Castle, he himself Giant Despair, and he hail dreaded walking through the Slough ci Despond of the London streets. Her wordi were like an angelic message making cle.irrn'! pure the murky air. Faith was the solvent «i all things and she had faith in PauiiiiiuB, The combination of her spirituality and hu materialism would eventually bear them op to heaven in a Paulinium chariot. Pauli murmured an adequate accompaniment u his dithyrambics. At last, looking at tk

“ In ten minutes,” she said, “ my fatherwS be summoned from his library, my sister frm her boudoir, where she has been inking ta fingers, face and hair over household acceunti and we two from here. We haven't mud time before lunch for tbe bones I liave to pick' I know it seems starting a meal at the wrj-r., end,” she laughed, “ like a cinema film workci backwards, but still—here we are—why ha't you bought up all these mortgages?”

“ I wasn’t aware that you knew.”“ A child would know. Why did you c

it?”“ A sound investment.“ You were acting agmnst my very (Ici

initely expressed wishes.”"It pleased your temporarily divine u"

reason to be angry with me. I discounted u. as I discounted another announcement.' ,

He rose and holding her with his bnj;!)' eyes, stood over her. with folded arms; a he said very quietly;

“ It’s no use your strugglmg against tai' Paida. You’ve got to be mine one of tM)' days, and you know it as well as I do.

She rose superb and snapped her fingeis “ My friend. I ’m not going to be yours*

long as you’ve got a penny you think you " buy me with!” , , . 1

He turned away with a wave ot the nan “ You hurt,” said he.

“ I meant to.” , , _He nashcd round. “ Why? What lu«

done?’’ I I j>“ In-order to win my—esteem let “5 “ ," :

you have bought up the mortgages m O w told my dear but entirely unbusincss-'rj father that he needn’t worry afwut interest. You’re keeping the roof above heads. Do you think that’s an agr«:,, position for a proud woman? Do yo“ ' ' j I ’m going to fall into your arms with a ti ': you. thank you for saving an ancient iw from ruin, and, out of gratitude, Iforever’? Usecommonsense.mygoouin™

F E p a s s e d his hand over liis crisp aubJ ■••A hair. “ I adore to see you l i ke ' . You remind mo more than ever of the 1 -

(Conlimri on page 13 6 )

H


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 135

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Malatesta who married the great Pandolfo of Rimini- But. pardon me if I say so—you are beating the air. There has been no question of remission of interest between Mr. Veresy and mysdf, I assure you.”

She said bewildered, ‘T know you well enough not to do you the injustice of doubting your word.”

He made a somewhat ironical gesture of acknowledgment.

“ I have the vanity, as you doubtless have discovered, of thinking myself a great many great things. But I’m not a great liar.”

“ Will you explain, then, why my father couldn’ t afford to pay the other mortgagees and he can pay you?”

“ Readily, my dear.” He smiled. “ It’s a mere question of a busmess man’s personal interest in Mr. Veresy’s financial affairs. The late mortgagees cared not a fig. tVhy should they? I come along with lawyers, accountants, stockbrokers and bankers, a whole army of experts, and we find that Mth a little manipulation here, a little judicious investment there, a little thumb-screwing of a certain gentleman—”

“ Monte Dangerfield?”“ .4h. You know. Well, we arranged a

certain compromise in order to avoid a lawsuit. Everything has helped, you see. I can’t say that we have restored Mr. Veresy to his position as a rich man. Alas, that is not possible, at present. In the future, who knows? But at any rate, his solvency is assured, and if he is content with a modest scale of living, there is no reason why he should leave this beautiful ancestral home.”

The last three florid words were aceom- panied by one of his sweeping gestures. Paula winced as at a jangled chord. If only he had said, like anybody else; “ This jolly old house!”

He waited for a while and then took a step nearer and in a low tone;

“ I hope you’re satisfied,” said he.“ I am very grateful for what you have

done,” said Paula.The door opened and Mr. Veresy appeared.

He shut the door all in a htury and advanced cordially with outstretched hand to Pandolfo.

“ A thousand apologies. Sir Victor. I only just learned that you were here. Really Paula, Pargiter is growing positively senile— ”

And not even a sherry and bitters and a biscuit offered after his long motor journey! Would he have one now? Or one of the modem concoctions—a cocktail? He himself was old-fashioned enough to know nothing of their making: but he was sure Paula could “ fix one up” for him. That was the correct word, wasn’t it?

Pandolfo declined, smilingly- Ho defied ait the doctors and never drank except at meals. Chadford, he explained, was so little off his route that he could not resist the temptation of calling to bid Mrs. Field good-by before starting for Biazil-

“ Brazil! Howlenvyyou! A fine country. Rio de Janeiro harbor! God bless my soul, how many years ago was it? . . .

IS calculations were interrupted by the entrance of Myrtilla. In a few moments

luncheon was announced. Mr. Veresy compensated for the simplicity of the meal by ordering up a precious bottle of the old Joharmesburg. Its exquisite perfiirne filled the room. Pandolfo, sffencmg trivial talk, held up arresting hands.

"M y dear Mr. Veresy, who am I that you should bestow on me Ulis gift of the Rhine gods?”

He passed his glass under his nose and sipped- “ What? Eighteen eighty-four! It can’t be possible.”

Mr, Veresy thumped the leathern arm of his chair and beamed delight.

“ It is. The very year.” Pargiter was sent to fetch the empty bottle. “ To give good wine to a man who knows is one of the greatest pleasures in life. Yes, ’84. My old father laid it down. He made a ^ciality of Hocks. There’s half a cellarful still. During the war, I couldn’t bring myself to touch tho stuff. Seemed unpatriotic. But now—what has the poor old wine got to do with it, anyhow? By George! Fancy your spotting the vintage!”

He regarded Pandolfo as a kind of god, a modern and highly sophisticated Bacchus-

Paula, amused and interested, asked; “ How did you recognize it, Sir Victor?”

“ Memory. Why shouldn’t you record sensations Cke any other facts? I tasted tWs wine once before the war at a castle in Silesia. I drank it again last year in the City of London. Mistake was impossible. The particular flavors of wine are like individual mriodics to a musical ear- Once heard never forgotten.”

“ We’ll have up another. Indeed as many as are left,” cried Mr. Veresy, “ and we’ll sit down here until they're all finished. It’s no use giving it to the people round about here. They prefer Moselle- Lighter and more refreshing! Or whisky and soda—very weak.

If the war hadn’t proved the contrary 1 would say it was a dam’ degenerate age, when a man can't take his drink like a gentleman. Seems to me that the world’s all upside down. A young fellow comes in and drinks lemon- squash and eats ices, and you find he’s a V. C.I give it up.” He drank and smiled. “ Thank God, I’ve got a palate left,” said he.

“ And this,” said Pandolfo, with a bow. I He went on. " 1 can’t give you anything I better- That would be beyond the power of I man. But something perhaps as good, of a I different genre, if you would do me the I honor of visiting my humble house in Titc I Street. Imperisl Tokay out of the cellars of I the late Emperor Franz Josef- I once was in I Vienna looking after a patent of mine. I had ' many introductions, in consequence of which I came to know tho Surgeon-in-Chief to the Emperor. One night over an excellent Tokay wine he grew confidential. The Emperor suffered from many infirmities of old age. He mentioned one. No need to go into particulars. There came to me one of my usual flashes of inspiration—tie inventor’s flashes. ‘But that,’ I cried, ‘ can easily be remedied-’ I took out a pendi and made sketches on the table-cloth- The next day I sent him a complete design and specification.A free gift. It was really a very simple trumpery matter. To cut the story short, he had the appliance made, dapped it on the old Emperor, with the result that, eventually, I was presented. Then came the question of recognition. Money was out of the question.In those days one was quite delighted to help a lame Emperor over a stile. I didn’t want the Order of lie Three Purple Eagles or whatever they used to give away in Austria. I wanted what no one, unless he were a Crowned Head, could get- Some of the best Imperial Tokay that lay in the vaults of the Hofburg. And I got it. I got a dozen. Court Functionaries drew up in motor-cars to my hotel, and presented me with a case all over seals and imperial devices franking me through tbe Customs Houses of the Universe.” He turned to Paula. “ lalwaysgetwhat I want, don’t!?”

She avoided the direct question. “ Vby haven’t you told me this story before? ”

“ It would take me a lifetime to tell you all my stories. Haven’t you realized that I'm an amateur of the Picturesque?”

“ I should say an expert.” said Mr. Veresy courteously.

“ Call me a professional,” laughed Pandolfo.

He w a s launched on the theme of the color and joy and madness of Life’s Adventure.

He held the worn and simple Myrtilla spellbound. He was a radiant angel fallen into her little narrow world-

Confirmation of his estimate of the guest as a damn good fellow set Mr. Veresy aglow. By the end of the meal Pandolfo had established a position in at least two simple hearts. Mr. Veresy kept him in the dining-room after the ladies had retired. Myrtilla was full of questions. WTiy had Paula given no hint of her friendship with this most remarkable of men? Paula had to respond lamely that, in London, one met so many remarkable men that they eclipsed one another, so to speak, and individually made no impression. Whereupon Myrtilla sighed and said that Paula had ail the luck.

The men came in; Pandolfo with the announcement of immediate departure. He must be in London for a great Paulini™ dinner-party he was giving prior to his sailing for Brazil. Myrtilla aJted: What was a Paulinium dinner-party? He threw up his hands to Paula.

“ Have you said never a word for me?“ For you? Why should I? Of you—no-

No more than you’ve said a word of me.”Mr. Veresy and Myrtilla exchanged glances. “ Paulinium steel,” said Mr. Veresy, with

the air of one who knew, “ is the new metal of which Sir Victor is the inventor.”

“ I see,” murmured Myrtilla,“ And so the dinner-party—a band 0'

believers . . Pandolfo smiled in his engaging way.

Le a v e was taken. Mr. Veresy and Paula ' followed their guest into the hall where

Pargiter stood by the entrance door, fut- lined coat in hand. Suddenly from the morning-room came a sharp cry.

“ Fathei;!” ,With an apology the old man obeyed tne

summons. Myrtilla caught him by the arm- “ Don’t be a dear old silly. Give tlie man

a chance.” , ,Mr. Veresy asked God to bless his soul mu'

Myrtilla to explain.“ You don't suppose he came here

you—or me. Can’t you see he’s over hcaa and ears in love with Paula? They re 1 thick as thieves. Why should he christen Im old metal Paulinium? And why should have taken such an affectionate interest u* Chadford? The dear thing gives himsdi away at evenr turn.”

{Continued on page 13 S)


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 137

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138

Y f A h - - : ■

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(Conliiuied-lriiiii page 13 6 )


“ That makes things rather awkward.“ On the contrary," replied Myrtiila,•‘ Yes—but—1 can't let the fellow go with

out bidding him good-by."“ Paula will see to that,” Myrtiila declared.

“ Where’s our old visitors’ book?"Unaware of the subtlety of the feminine

brain, Mr. Veresy damned the book. No one had written in it for the last five years, and of its whereabouts he had no knowledge.

“ I think I have,” said MjTtilla. ‘ Wait here till I come.” , ,, ,

Meanwhile Paula and Pandolfo stood together at one end of the great staircased and balconied hall, while Pargiter stood impassive at the other- „ , , ,

Said he; “ Tell me. To-day, at least, have you been contented with my demeanor?"

She laughed. “ W'hat an odd lot of words. V.Tiat do you mean? ”

“ I came here a starving man. Almost a wolf. Instead of saying and doing what I wanted to. I ’ve been as discreet and colorless as our friend, Babington. I deserve some thanks. Considering alb things—I think I re been great!” , .

Like an actor, at the fall of the curtain, turning to an invited friend in the wings, he awaited his meed of praise. She wrinkled a perplexed and humorous brow. _ ^

“ My dear friend, after all this time, don t you understand? If you difc’t want me 5° marry you, there’s no man in the world I d like to love more.”

“ That’s cold comfort,” said he, “ to one who needs all the warmth he can get.”T70R the flrst tinte' during his embarrassii u pursuit didihedouch her heart. She felt just a faint sensation of a stab. Ilitherto his love-making haddjecn a mere invitation—not to share,,for everytliijig'he did was m the grand manner—but“ to ..crown his splcndor. His attitude had been that ot the Great Olympic Giver of AE. Tor the very first time, therefore, he struck tbe very simple human chord. For the very first time he had suggested his own needs, had asked for something for himself. With an awakened intelligence she swept his face with a swift feminine glance. He had grown a shade older. There were new faint lines on his forehead and at the corners of his eyes in which there seemed to bum a strange hunger. Hers met them for a second or two very steadily. She was a woman of the modern world; a beautiful woman, inipid, if such a thing were possible, to the admiration and desire of men. But in his eyes she read something apart from man’s stark desire; a hunger, almost wolfish, for other things than love.

She came dose to him and said m a low \*oice;

“ Putting foolishness—you know what I mean—aside, what can I do for you? How can I help you? ”

"What is the value of tbe goblet to a thirsty man without the wine? ”

She turned aside, at loss for immediate answer, her straight English sense of language ever so slightly offended by the exotic metaphor. Not that the words did not ring true to the man- His sincerity to himself she did not question. But, as an instinctive expression of the man, they did not ring true to her. No clean-run Englishman appealing to her sympathy in an indubitably tense moment would have talked of the vanity of an empty goblet. And yet. the Latin who spoke had summed up tho whole business in a phrase.

Had she been in flippant mood, she might have suggested, by way of compromise, the filling of the goblet with soda-water or lemonade. But compromise was impossible. Either wine—for wine is a living thing, one of the three “ God’s great words to man'’—and at once a symbol and a gift of God’s grace and love; or the mockery of the empty cup, no matter how elaborately and exquisitelygarlanded.

So, as has been said, she turned her head away and made no answer. He shrugged his shoulders.

“ Do you know why you broke off your brief engagement to the excellent Babington? You realized that the rich vintage of yourself which you were prepared to pour out wouldn’ t be good for his health. I defy you to say, as I defied you the first moment we met, that it wouldn’ t be good for mine. IVhat are you going to do with it? Keep it in a locked cellar, forever and a day, so that no man can get a drink of it? Think of the wickedness of the waste, my dear!”

She said with a wry smile:“ I think, my dear friend, it’s only a little

ww du pays and has turned sour already.”“ If it had, you would have thought it quite

good enough for Babington.”The voice of Mr. Veresy, perhap.s ostenta

tiously raised, came from the open door of the morning-room.

.“ So you’ve found the book at last, Myr- tilla.”

Paula asked swiftly; “ When do you sail?” “ The day after to-morrow. Southampton.

Royal Mail Oranta. Can’t I carry away acrumb of comfort? ”

.Again the appeal. She felt wickedly hardhearted. As a friend she could feed him with whatever loaves and fancy bread he desired. As husband postulant she could give him naught.

" You shall have a telegram,” she said.Then, into the hall came Mr. Veresy and

Myrtiila. visitors’ book and fountain pen in hand. Pandolfo laughed and, on a carefully presented virgin pitge, dashed off his triumphant signature.

Mr. Veresy accompanied him down the dignified flight of steps to his car. Pandolfo drove off, waving his hat, with his usual air of a conqueror.

“ Splendid fellow! One of the best!” “ I ’msogladyoulikehim, dear,” saidPaah

demurely.When he had retired to his study, where of

afternoons he had the habit of facing ruin like a somnolent gentleman, Myrtiila turned on her sister.

“ Wtiy the—why tlie—why the—?”Paula took her by her lean shoulders. “ What the—what the—what the—wliat

has it got to do with you?”“ I'm sorry,” said Myrtiila, disengaging

herself- “ I ’m not often indiscreet. But this is so obvious.”

“ And the poor dear,” said Paula, “ thought ' no one could possibly have guessed his secret.

He himself I t o l d - s o . ”Myttilla- the faded, elderly image of Paula,

laughed' in her turn'. 1 •“ Men'are idipts„aten’ t.they?” . And after

a pause; “ But, you darling—you see it's of such enormous interest to us all—what are you going to do about it?”

“ I ’m going to find a nice little undiscovered, uncharted island in the middle of the Paduc,” replied Paula, “ and I ’m going to sit there for the rest of my days.”

“ Women like you,” said Myrtiila a trifle sourly, “ make me tired.”

PERH-APS this was the first time in thar lives that their English reserve had allowed

them to talk nakedly. And Paula saw that they were poles apart- Brief though her joy had been, she had had Life's glorious fulfilmcaE. She had loved; she had borne a child; death had been but that fulfilment’s sanctification. She had gone forth again into the world, humorously, regally consdous of eveiy man's desire. Like every beautiful and virtuous woman she had her own unconsdously woven scale of i^ues. She never doubted that, in her world, other decent women had the same. Her mW was too ddicate and her preoccupation 'vitl material things too insistent for anytliing approaching morbid self-analysis. The great sweet people of the world do not worry about themsdves. It is only the little diseased W< that love to turn themselves inside out aad discuss their poor little psychical insides thus exposed in cither private or general company. The strong and me sane give themselves in robust objectivity to the world- So Paub Field,

A defect, it might be, of her qualities that, until that moment of her sister’s exclamation, she had not recognized the cry of the starved woman.

She replied lamely;“ But, Myrty, darling, how can one marry a

man one doesn’t love?”Myrtiila stood tragically in front of hct,

worked into a rare and sudden passion, so that her withered beauty started into intense loveliness.

“ Love! What does it matter so long as aman wants one? You've been wanted all yourlife- No man has ever wanted me—" siie shook her hands in front of her, in unpre cedented gesture. “ You throw away Godj gifts as if th^ were no' hing, while I would « contented with any crumb that fell from tho table. I have no patience with you. I you 1 ”

She flung out-Paula went to the window and looked on

the desolate and dripping winter garden. For a moment she regarded apathetically tlie forlorn female statue. Then her fenp' worked. That it should spring into fantastic. Bacchantic MaenacHc life was less a mitade than the staid Myrtilla’s outburst.

Then suddenly she turned away and swoP‘ her brows with impatient hands. Wliat on earth could Myrtiila know about it? >0“ must love a man. You must . . . Oh, tw whole thing was impossible.

(Fo be contiwued in the May issue)


j o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 139'4KM

fjpjLofj&acg Lrz Jpmiq fafhtonf IASUIRA,(UEVIRAATOm SUm. BlNGtLtDA

0 their own distinction of design, the four models presented on the following pages have the added distinction of superb fabric. Each

one was created from one of the exquisitely fine woolens bearing the proud name of Gera Mills. There is a wide variety of Gera Mills woolens for the new season— all managing most subtly to direct the trend of Fashion as well as to follow it. Their texture, their weave, their very submission to every whim of the deft designer— all these proclaim their distinguished character. The models illustrated are to be seen only at the shops where they were originated— Franklin Simon & Co.— Henri Bendel— Stein &

Blaine— Bonwit Teller & Co. Other costumes, in woolens, from Gera Mills, are on display in the smarter shops the country over. This is the fifth portfolio of advanced fashions published by Gera Mills with the co-operation of the following twelve members of New York’s younger social set, who, in the Interest of charity, posed for the sketches by the celebrated fashion artist, Miss E. M . A. Steinmetz: Miss Janet Brower, Miss Constance Delanoy, Miss Adeline Hatch, Mrs. Putnam Morrison, Miss Harriet Camac, Mrs. Alvin Devereux, Mrs. S. Theodore Hodgman, Jr., Miss Catherine Okie, Mrs. Van Henry Cartmell, h'tiss Helen Gould, Mrs. Frederick Humphreys, Mrs. Fenton Taylor.

c

V

N T N G CO AG2 7 0 O A D K O N A V E N U E ,A T 3 q ™ El N E V / Y O l i A

B OETON - PUI LADi LPUIA ■ C U I C A Q O - / A N EttAN CIVCO


140H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R 1 °

‘P’*

I• si!'• H.

l(

1E ?

DELANOY

M iss Delanoy is wearing a chic frock by Henri Bendel, especially designed in G ERA M IL L S ’ “ PATO U ’S SU E D E ” .

“ Patou’s Suede” , the Gera material chosen by Jean Palou, the great Paris designer, to make some o f his charming spring creations, is used by Bendel in this smart button- trimmed frock. The soft golden- beige of its colouring is echoed in the badger fu r that makes a rich trimming ju st above the hem. The side-front button closing is very good, this spring, and the novel roll-back collar is very becoming to the youthful wearer.


j o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5141

A S T U D Y OF MISS A D E L I N E

H A T C H

M iss Hatch is wearing a new coat bv Franklin Simoii &* Co.. especially designed in G E R A M IL L S ’ ‘•LASHERA” .

“ Peach” — that smorl. new pinky shade, one o j the loveliest o f all pastel tints— is tke colour of this slender afternoon coal of Lashera, a light, pliable kasha-like fabric. Its warm lone is further carried out in a deep hand o j fo x fu r al the bottom o f the coat. It will be noticed that this model has tke epaulet shoulders and sleeves in one that have been so emphasized as a feature o f spring chic.


142 H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A S

A S T U D Y OF M I S S H A R R I E T

C A M A C

M iss Camac is wearing a capc-coat by Stein 6 * Blaine, especially designed in G E R A iU L L S ’ “ BENGELER.A

“ Bengelera” is a light, warm material— with a finish, to the touch, like flannel— which is ideal for a daytime wrap, suck as this one. lo be worn over summer frocks, ond is practically unmussablc. The smart cape-coaf shown here, made ° f “ Bengelera,” is distinctive in its circular cut that gives an extremely graceful movement lo the coal. A hat o f “ Bengelera” in the same exquisite “ fo g ” shade to match the coal, completes the costume.

m


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 143

A STUDY OF MRS. S. THEODORE

HODGMAN, JR.

Mrs. Hodgman is wearing a simple coal by Bonwit Teller S' Co., especially designed in G ERA M ILLS’ “ C H E V E R A ” .

The ckic, simple daytime coats o f spring gain their distinction, this year, in the beauty o f their pastel colouring. “ Chevera” — a diagonal cheviot weave— the material of this tailored model, may be had in while and all the soft flower-garden shades that will be seen on the street, this season, as well as in the house. This coat is in a pearly mauve, wkiek suggests violets and summer mist, yet it is smart and practical for everyday wear,


144

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curtains w ill n o t fade in the strongest sunshine, and they can be w ashed as safely as if they w ere w hite. L o o k fo r the O rin oka guarantee tag before y o u bu y . It is attached t o every b o lt o f genuine O rin oka sunfast and tubfast fabric, A t the better stores and decorating establishm ents everywhere.

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(Continued from page pi)


made her costume only the more sviking and unlikely. She seemed to Dolf bizarre and conspicuous in the -xtreme.

“ Mr Adolphus Worthington, Miss Weston," said Madame de Flournay, siting unconsciously with an umusuaJ warmth into those wide-set hazel eyes, “ a countryman of yours— though for a long time an inhabitant of France, we are glad to say. He is as happy here as i hope you will be.”

"Oh, I am happy everywhere. Miss Weston replied and laughed again. I am always happy! I seem to have the most wonderim

don’t know why. Father says it s because I'm so healthy—but I don t know.

I know lots of girls just as healthy ^ i am and they don’t seem to have nearly such a good time. But everybody is so wonderful

^ ShTiaughed again, and the Count to everyone’s amazement laughed with her.

"E l l e csl d U ioieu st," he murmured to Adolphus, who stood reserved and silent, having dropped her firm hand.

‘Tt is not difficult to see why every one should be, as you say, ‘ wonderful’ Mademoiselle ” said the young man who had entered with them, in careful E^hsh. , ^

"R o n jo n r , Madame,” he added, kissing the outstretched hand, ‘ ‘ bonjour, VorHngtan, comntrtil ga va? "

"Tref bien, d’A slergy— et lo iis? Doll answered mechanically, watching the young French girl, who leaned to her aunt’s kiss and returned to a fascinated study of the young American in the breeches. Her large d«k eyes, which were not, somehow, I jY i’ though they were full of intelligence and feeling, followed every gesture of ain^ing, laughing stranger; even when Dolf shook her hand and spoke of the beauty of the day, she answered him with the nearest approach to inadvertence he had ever seen m her perfect manner. . , .

‘‘ Yes, it is a lovely day,” she sard vaguely• “ Oh, Monsieur, you should see her ndc! It is marvelous! She has no fear of anything!

" Ah," he returned, increasingly vexed at the exuberance of this girl’s personality, which seemed by the mere warmth of healtn youth to excite and exhilarate them so, but after all, that is a merely physical courap, isn’t it? Manv people have it, you know.

"I have not," said Antoinette simply- “ But you have so many more wonderful

things, ray dear Toinette, Think! Surely mere courage—” . , , ,

"It takes more courage to tide my uncles mare than to think!” she said quickly, and turning, joined the other two young people. She had never interrupted him before.

Fo r the first time since his acquaintance with to pro, Dolf felt himself a little neg

lected among the de Flournays, a little out of it. IJow often he had listened, amused, to the chatter of .Americans (for the Count rather affected Americans since the war) in that beautiful salon; always a part of the European group somehow, always ready for an amuMd flash of Madame de Floumay’s eye, or a quick translation for Antoinette, who was very shy in English and disliked to speak it, though she understood it fairly well.

But to-day, he was m no group M »U, it seemed—he was by himself. This tall, self- sufficient creature—whose voice, at once loud and gentle, dominated the room; whose face, though not beautiful by any standard, was yet so compellingly fresh and noticeable; whose conversation, though f^r from stumd, was certainly not brilliant—glowed like a fire of youth and hope and happiness m tte dim and somewhat chilly apartment and they all gathered around her and warmed their hands at her, fairly! That she should tnonorolize the situation seemed perfectly natural to her— it would, of course, he mused bitterly. That s what thev did over there, young girls. Obviously MUlanie could do nothing: however disgusted she might be, she was always the perfect hostess, and it was not for her to put this young person in her place. Moreover, her husband was amused, and Henri’s amusenwnt had always been his wife’s chief care. But that Antoinette should sit there, gazing at the young savage like an adoring spaniel, was simply disgusting- That was what she was-^ Savage. That her native wigwam was doubtless a luxurious brownstone building full ot bathrooms, that her deer-skin jacket bad developed into expensive English riding clothes, that her wampum pouch was a check-book, made no difference, no difference at all! Spiritually she was a_ Savage, as ruthless and blatant and egotistic as miy Cherokee, and for Antoinette to admue her like that was a sacrilege—Antoinette,_ who had foigotten mote than this absurd girl wouia ever learn! How, indeed, had she ever had any time to learn—hunting and dancii^ and running the streets all day! He turned deliberately away from them and studied tbe

New voices sounded behind him and Madame de Flournay moved past him to

welcome the arrivals- At the same moment, a well-known voice was close in his ear.

“ It would be a great idea if you d get me some tea, Mr. Worthington—would you?I ’m famished, absolutely famished!” announced Miss Weston. “ Then we can have a talk: Antoinette says you know a lot about pictures. That's wonderful, that one, isn't

She loomed beside him, her Q-es level with his, and smiled her confiding, confident smile.

Just what she would do, of course. Stalk a man, quite by herself (a man who was obvi. ously avoiding her) and send him, like a waiter, to get her somethingl The American Princess. One was expected to be flattered at the privilege of tunning across the room for a chit of her age. .

“ I will bring you some tea with pleasure, he said coldly, but with a curious inward perturbation, “ I am not particularly fond of modern paintings myself. Will you at down? ”

Th e countess smiled at biro, as he passed with cup and plate and the French people

left the two foreigners to a natural reunion- tbe first time he had been thus classed in that house. His resentment showed in his face, but Penelope did not observe it,

“ I know, Antoinette told me you only liked old things,” she went on, extending her graceful length in the deep chair and crossing her slender legs like a boy. , , , ni

“ Your apartment must be lovely—she toid | ! me about it. It must be great to live right on ' I tiie river, like that.”

“ Mademoiselle de Flournay has done me the honor to take tea there, yes. It is kind of her to admire my little place/’ he answered formally. . „ ,

“ Oh. I don't know about that,’ she returned quickly, “ the poor kid is glad enough to get out once in a while, Mr. Worthington!It must have been a treat (or her! ”

“ Mademoiselle de Flournay has op^n tunities. Miss Weston, I assure you, which' make my rooms ridiculously—”

“ T h e re ’ s w here you make a m istake, she interrupted composedly; “ w h at do you mean — opp ortu n ities? She’s been begging me h a rd enough to get her to tea a t the hotel!

"What! An American hotel? I can hardly believe—”

“ Oh, the French girls are crazy to come to our hotels,” she assured him. “ They love ii I ’m having a tea for Antoinette to-rooirow— you must come. Antoinette adores you, Jlr. Worthington!” _ , . . . tl

A little warmth crept mto his heart. Iho girl’s voice was very sincere.

“ Those are rather strong words to apply iu a young French girl,” he said with a simle. “ We are good friends, I hope. When you have been here a little bnger, Miss Weston,' you will realize that the French people art difficult to know.”

“ That’s what everybody says, she replies, opening her eyes -wider over a luscious chocolate morsel, of which she had eaiet three, “ but I don’t find it so; you know, l have lots of French friends, and th^re a> cordial and charming as possible! Theyn simply lovely to father, too. He’s never bOT better mounted-their horses are awiuii!

^' ‘Ah,” he said drily, "I don’t ride, -AnJ there are, of course, French people—asc French people. 'The really old families, if you know them, are still—”

"AM.wusvoild.mademoisellel A gray-haired man, with the inevitable tco

rosette in his buttonhole, advanced and shoot his finger at Penelope.

“ Figure to yourself,” he explained U' Madame de Flournay, “ that I am the le puted host of this young person. And wnm dolmeether? Almostnever! Alltheworl‘1 carries her away I”

His hostess smiled and left them.“ Have you met Monsieur de Brigly?. tw

girl asked, and performed the introdurtion in charming French, to Dolf’s surpnse. He MO somehow taken it for granted’ that she didn speak French. ,,

“ Monsieur de Brigly has the most wouiu ful old chateau—it's so quaint, ishe went on, | smiling up at them ftqra where she loiiiiy: “ You ought to see it, Mr. Worthingw.| you're SO fond of old things.” .,

“ Every lover of architecture knows arm jw-Oisfl,” Dolf answered respectfully. ' has been ‘ quaint’ for five centuries, moiselle!” „ , - ■M. de Brigly smiled appreciatively,.

" I should be delighted to show it to J more fully, Monsieur,” he jephed ainaM,“ you will perhaps like to visit it while ^moisellc your friend is with us, , .

Dolf drew a long breath. Visit Could anything better be offered beauty? He expressed hunsdf with ‘eP , and so intelligently that the chJelain oancient house smUed warmly. „.

“ It is amazing,” he observed, how » (Continued on page 14 0 )


OPISs e n d s

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f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5145

LILY of France Oir set


t h e s a v a g eJ o s e p h i n e D a s l i a m B a c o n s S t o r y

(Coiilinuei! fr o m page 144)


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ordinarily well informed the Amencans are on these subjects! You have lived long m France, Monsieur? Will you permit me to compliment you on your facility of expression? ”

DOLF’S heart thawed beyond belief. The girl really was remarkable—odd. but

remarkable. And she seemed very simple. These 'people hadn’t turned her head at all, apparently. If only she wouldn't loll about so, and would take off those abominable breeches, and talk lower, one might make something of her. Her French was really pretty—not always accurate, of course, but oddly idiomatic and a not unattractive accent.

D ’Astergy joined them anti stood by her chair, a grouping that suited his snort, stocky figure. . , , .

“ This is really hardly (air, my good Vort- ingtoii,” he complained, “ you press nationality a little too far, fi'esl-ce-pasf Miss ■Veston is in train to forget us! ”

Dolf smiled, not ill pleased,“ Oh, I will be generous, d Astergy, he

said- “ Sithere, won’tyoii?"Penelope raised her gray eyes conhdingly.

‘ ‘Do sit here, Monsieur,” she urged, and then you can enjoy Mr. Worthington as much as 1

T he Frenchman, raised his eyebrows.“ As much . . . he began doubtfully. “ You see ” she explained m her clear, full

voice, “ all my life I have wanted to meet a man named Adolphus! I never believed there were any. I thought it was a joke. And hereheis!” , .,

The nearest approach to a shout of laughter that he had ever heard in that house rose around him. Antoinette’s rate peal of mirth rang above the rest; it seerned that de !■ lour- nay would never stop chuckling.

‘‘ Vmimcfit, eUeestdeiicieiise, he murmured,wiping his eyes. _ . , u“ I am glad to have a.fforded you so much pleasure,” Dolf remarked stiffly, crimson with rage Savage! Utter, untrained savage!

He rose and followed Antoinette, who had taken charge of an empty cup, and stood by her silently. As she still smiled, a little flushed and absent, he spoke a trifle severelj'.

“ I confess that there are points of hren™ humor I have not yet grasped,” ^ said, but you, naturally, appreciate them, Toinettc.

“ Oh!” sheened softly, and opened her eyes at him with a mocking little light in them he had never seen, “ but that is Aiiterkaii hurnor. Monsieur Dolf! It is you who should laugh!

r e

IF HE found himself in the great, crowded hotel the next afternoon, it was for a

distinct reason; two reasons, in fact. In the first place, Antoinette had asked him to come . fshe was clearly alittle shy) and in the second place, he wanted to motor out to Brigly witn the Westons and Penelope had invited him to her tea. His course was obvious. Doll got on weU with older women, and as he didn t dance, he made an excellent partnCT for a non-dancing lady. Moreover, the sight ot so many rich, ridiculous persons, and the atmo^ phere of overpaid, gilded service, the general, pointless opulence'of the pl^e, gave him a comfortable sense of superiority. Among all these gay, uncomprehending birds of passage, he at least, had a settled, even a distingiushed little nest. They would pass, but he would

In tbe most crowded corner of the c^wded room, around a large, conspicuous table, they were gathered; he and d’.Astergy were the oldest there. Penelope was really handsorne in a soft maize-colored simplicity that would have paid two months of his rental; Antoinette, a little dwarfed and rather too warmly dressed beside her friend, listened to her cl^r loud voice with the same rapt interest. Dolf was displeased that he found her a little lc.ss elegant than the young American; wh«e wM the legend of the perfectly attired Frencli girl? It was simply a different type; that was

“ She looks like a Botticelli,” he remarked to d’Astergy, who answered. ‘ but, of course! I find that many Americans do! It is something in the expression—niwi/ something cool and—andp!aintive?_ Young. . . . far away . . . . unspoiled.”

“ For Heaven's sake! They are spoiled to death!” . , _ ,

“ Ah! In your sense—not m mine. See! She is two years older than Antoinelte-- twenty-two—and she has a younger face.

“ Antoinette has thought more, learnedmore.” _ . , , , *“ Possibly. This one acts. And feels, too —likeachUd . . . ”

“ And Mrs. Weston?” Dolf asked, sh a l^ Penelope’s warm hand. “ I hope I may

“ Oh, mother’s awfully busy,” she answered v.agucly. “ She never has a moment, here. Some^dy's always turning up, you see, and then, her fittings . . . the only person she has time to talk to is the telephone. May Ipresent you to Mademoiselle—"

The air was full of perfume, lea, and

flowers. The music swelled and heat across the talk, which rose, of necessity, to cover it.

“ What a ghastly noise! Dolf said irritably, as the saxophone groaned melodiously above the persistent, monotonous tune:

“ You think so?” d'Astergy questioned. “ I am not sure that I don’ t like it, me! I mean, to dance- Even, I find it interesting; it is .a question of syncopation, is it not? And the good Beethoven syncopated, you know, lo say nothing of—oh, I have lost my chance!

A tall, nonchalant young American leaned over Penelope and took her hand.

“ I think wc might have a hit of tins? he suggested, and in one easy movement she had risen into his arms and they were swayuig off together, laughing and talking.

" A charming way to ask for a dance! said Dolf acid(v, but d’Astergy had invited Antoinette and he was left alone.

PENELOPE and her partner moved like one body it was as if the same mind governed

their muscles. Their method was mcom- prehensible to Dolt, it seemed to have no system, no pattern, no continuity. But that thev were graceful was undeniable, that t ^ ’ were highly competent was obvious. The French couple were stiff aud monotonous, m comparison; dearly they repeated the same evolutions oftener. However, Antoinette seemed to enj’oy it thoroughly; she smiled and the flush of exercise suited her dark eyes excellently. Before the dance was over, Penelope glanced at the table, empty but for the straight distiiiguislicd figure of the guest, and spoke to her partner, who guided her to her scat. ,, , „

“ That was lovely, she said gmtefuUy, “ you certainly are far from poor, Bill! Ask me again!” .

“ Righto—any time you say, he answered briefly, adding;

“ You don't dance?' to Dolf.He was an easy-going young man, beyond

doubt and Mr. Worthington resented easygoing strangers who stared carelessly at oldcrmen.

“ No,” liesaid,“ wheii I was theageofj-ou youngsters, there was a little war going on over here, and we were all pretty busy. I was dancing attendance on a rather fussy colonel.” , . ,,

“ Ah ” returned Bill, in a bored voice, yes, yes. Pretty deadly, all that. WcU, Pen, see youlater!” ,

He lounged off, picked a charming brunette from the arms of a protesting partner, andresumed his irregular rhythms.

Penelope giggled and ate a pink cake.“ That was rather funny, ’ she ^ d , Do

you know who that is, Mr. Dolf? That s Bill . Stretlinger.” ,

“ .And what does Bill Stretlinger do— besides dancing, I mean? ” ,

“ Oh, nothing much—he’s awfully rich, 1 believe- But he was in the Aviation. Riglit through everything. He was a year in a prison camp and he has three decorations, lie’s a great friend of General Gouraud.

“ For heaven’s sake!” said Dolf, gaspmg reddening. “ I—I—why, how old is he.’. « . «« « _ _1 ...... J. rc, /Tand rtjuucj j i m ;

“ Twenty-eight,” she answered, rcacBing for a green cake.

“ I ’m very sorry,” bo began, in a low voice, ‘T bad no idea—I’ll apologize immedioUiy, ol course, I must have seemed like a lool . . • but how could I have known—” .

“ Oh, that’s all right,” she said, meeting Ins eves in fiank sympathy, “you couldii t, ffl course. And don’t speak of it, agaim ’J makes him furious. He knew you tliimt know. That’s his way. He s a mce kin, really. Lots of people think he s conceited. But he isn’t." , t, i< >She was claimed by d’Astergy and Dolt »a! alone with liis thoughts, which w re not pleasant. He was glad to have them interrupt^ by a broad-shouldered, iron-gray sort of man, who dropped into liie chair n«t him and began to choose among the littic' “ Good afternoon,” he said, “ I hope you'y® got everything you want, cli? Everyborty happy? I am the bride s father, so w speak—Nathan Weston.” , . k,

Dolf shook his hand, which seeme; to M constructed out of his own slecl rails, ana named himself. _ .

“ Ah, yes—Pen spoke of you. This ypuns d’Astergy-aaid you were writing a book?

“ I ’m trving to,” Dolf admitted, “ but ! may be the only person who will read ic I ’m in a law office, here, Mr. Weston, but I not so enthusiastic about the law as I ougB‘ to be, I’m afraid, and I’ve always wri more or less, with just enough success lo ko-P me at it! I ’m doing some articles on oia Frencii architecture, now.”

" I see. Pen loves all that, too. younger you are, it seems, llie older you waieverything to be, eh? ” ,

Dolf laughed at the dry, dipped“ Perhaps,” he admitted. “ Miss Weston „

certainlv young and very chatmipg, to-na> (Ci»i(!»«erf on page lyo)


[ o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 147

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f o r A .

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A SING Vk Ard. your ski trace o fcommon with a s of six Ti will sooi line in .

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texture s phone tc

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A -■- ■ ^ N r J l J

( o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5149

S a y s E l i z a b e t h A r d e n :

“ W ake and tone your winter-weathered stem

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An E lizabeth Arden Treatment is based on three fundamental steps—Cleansing, T oning and N ourishing. A n d these ih rce ’processes should be a part o f you r da ily care o f the skin at hom e. A fter a course o f E lizabeth Arden Treatments in the Salon— to put your skin in perfect con d ition — ask fo r a Demonstration Treatm ent, w h ich w ill teach you h o w to continue the correct m ethod before you r ow n m irror. O r i f y ou are far away, w rite describing the characteristics and faults o f you r skin ; E lizabeth Arden w ill outline a com plete course o f hom e treatments suited to you r individual requirements. Y ou can achieve w onderfu l results by fo llow in g the E lizabeth Arden m ethod m your little “ Self Treatments” each m orning and night.

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SPRING, PRIMROSES Cn l o v epE O P L E are very sentimental

about the primrose. In the spring one perpetually hears young women declare that they loot primroses, which they cruelly stulf into small vases, and yet when you question them they don’ t know that the

fd low primrose has an orange eye. fear that we are most o f us rather akin to Peter Bell, o f whom

Wordsworrh remarked,AytlUw pfimrue i j j rh tr'i brimA fftlUut prirorfiji tea/ I9 i/w.And it tu4s mthiBg mar I."

It is a sad state o f things, to be like Peter Beil, whom Wordsworth further describes:

• T i. /« / . H e, , iyIw. hi, h,.HS:b, n m rf,! ,Tit wit:b,ry . / : i . „ j ! H e, ,k y .-

And yet, to make an end o f the poets, we are told that in the spring a young man’s fancy turns to thoughts o f love. From which we may conclude chat a young woman’s fancy turns in the same direction Let not, however, the reader fear that I am about to write an essay on spring. Spring and death have provided too many platitudes for me to add any more.

Spring abounds in fatal results, o f which the leaping iambs are ili- aware. I t is quite true that in these days o f mild winter or fugitive summer the fancy o f human beings turns to iovc. ( I reserve the cynical opinion that cheir thonghts turn to love in all seasons and in all weathers, for that would spoil the argument.) The reason, so far as I can see it through an imagination more akin to a compass chan to a soaring iarfc, is that in the Spring women brein to remove a minor portion o f their cloches, preparatory to the grand summer fantasies when they remove them all, and then put on again just so much as will prevent their being arresred. The reader will observe that here we approach a philosophy o f cloches which Carlyle had not thought of probably because in his period young women wore bodices with thirty burtons and buttoned all the buttons. Women are most attractive in the spring because they do not reveal themselves so fully as in the summer, aod also because they suddenly appear after cloaking winter, as butterflies emerging ftom a chrysalis.

— W. L. GEORGE

The Arden Venetian Toikt Preparations and Babani Perfumes are on sale at smart shops everywhere

Postage pa id o n m ail orders ex ceed in g T en D ollars

ELIZABETH ARDEN^JON: 25 O ld Bond Street

2 rue de la Paix

N E W Y O R K , 673 F IF T H A V E N U E

B O S T O N : 192 Boylston Street D E T R O IT ; 318 B ook Building

W A S H IN G T O N : 1147 Connecticut Ave. A TL A N TIC C ITY ; Ritz-Carlton Block

SA N FRAN CISCO: 233 Grant Avenue LOS ANGELES; 600 W est 7th Street


150

How TO B e S u r e o f G o o d S i l k

N ~0T by chemical analysis, not by _ burning, need you test the silk you buy— just look on the selvage for the name Belding’s— the sign o f good silk for m ore than 60 years.

Y ou will find Belding’s on a wide variety o f silks— crepes, satins, failles, taffetas and tub silks in smart com bination color stripes.

There really is no place in your wardrobe for inferior weighted silks— dresses, linings, and lingerie made o f Belding’s Silks will give you so much longer wear and enduring beauty- Belding’s preserve in their fabrics the marvelous'strength o f the original silk — that is why a l l Belding’s Silks can be cleaned without injury and the light shades tubbed as often as you like.

10, m good stores sell and recommend Belding’sSilks ask for them by name and look for theselvage mark to assure yourself the lasting satisfaction o f the genuine.

f b c i d i n f f SF A B R IC S • E M B R O ID E R IE S • S P O O L SILK S

Belding Bros. SC Company 9 0 2 Broadu,ay, NexcYork

t h e s a v a g eJ o s e p h i n e D a s k a m B a c o n ’ s S t o r y

(Coiitiiuicd from page 14 6 )

II A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

“ Isn't she?” The father's sharp gray eyes softened and glowed. , , 5^^,,

“ But there, everybody thinks so. Som^ times I tell her mother we’re a p.nir of old foolsa b ou t her—and she says;

“ 'Well, Nathan, in that ca.se there are□lentv of fools besides us!’^ “ And that's so. Everywhere .she g<«s i s just the same. Her mother s afraid U be snoiled being the youngest, but you can t seem to spoil her. She’s had ev^tfflng she wanted, up to now, and I mean her to h.vvc, by George! Whynotr

Doif smiled a non-committal smile. .Vn this man was a business man! Blood and

’“ There's a lot of nonsense talked about the voung people, Worthington, if you ask me. Mr. Weston continued, selecting a chocolate eclair thoughtfully- _ ,

"People don’t look deep enough, late this girl of mine, for instanci^lancing around in her pretty clothes (and tiiey are pretty, aren't they? I must say I like a well- dressed woman!), flirting, fooling, wimtcver. You wouldn’t suppose she was at her art clas.« every morning at nine, working till one, would you? All winter.”

“ Really? What does she do? .“ Modeling. The teacher tells me she s got

a great deal of talent. He rates her number tour in a class of thirty. Not bad, ch.

“ Indeed, no. I didn’t know—“ Oh, she’s crazy about it. Now that 1 rn

over here lor a few weeks, what does she do Gives it up without a word. To be with her dad Thursriav to Monday we hunt, anrl oti days she lugs'me around to churciies and museums. -A lew churciies go a long way with me—ah. here’s Mrs. Weston!

IT WAS difficult to look long at ,,M«- *■ Weston’s face (which was, after aU, like so many other faces that one couldn t have tomemhered it) without descenihng to tier figure, which was, lo put it briefly', quite worthy of her clothes- These were, from any standpoint, merely perfect. Even a mon must feel that her j/ere just iarênough, just dose enough about lier throat, that her impeccable little hat w^ just small enough; that her misleading iittie frock was just simple enough; that her vague, lustrous fur was just costly enough. If her lace expressed anything, it was tlie cairn con- virlion of these truths.

She smiled kindly al the men and expressed her hope that Mr. Wortpnglon hcul CTcrything he wanted, to which he replied in the affirmative- Urged to partake of tea, she indicated a table in the further corner and explained that she should be at that moment serving it to several friends of her own.

“ But then, how can any one l>e on lirne. sheasked, with a hopeless gesture. I ' ’ebeen late everywlicre, to-dav! You rea.ly mi^t come and say how-do-you-ô to olcl tvire. Murray, Nate,” she added, “ you know what her tongue is! She says you avoid her. . .

“ She’s dead right—I do, her husband responded. “ However, if you say so, Pussy, here goes! It can’t last long. Ill leave you to Pen, Mr. Worthington; she can take care ot you. I’m sure.” . , , „ u-_“ Oh, Pen can Uke care of everybody, his wife agreed, “ she’s a sweet child, isn t she, Mr. Worthington? You must come m to tea again, I hope not to be so busy, later—hut

I'm aWys hoping that! Ten says you’k coming to Brigly one week-end when we’re there . . . we must have a long talk about architecture, when I get time. 1 m immensely interested in architecture.

They were gone. , u 1“ My G o d ! ’’ Dolf murmured, and sank back into bis chair. Penelope was coming toward him, smiling and alone.TT W \S several weeks beforehc saw Madame J- de Flournay again. She and her hushancl had joined the Westons in a motor trip to Cannes, and Antoinette had been nursiiig her grandmother and looked a little thin and pale. The trees were hurrying into liloom and they had ventured upon coffee on the terrace, to give Toinette as much air as pos.sib_!e: the old lady had been tyrannical and the girl was liei favorite grandchild. \Vhen she left them, lo return to her convalescent, they spoke more freely, and Madame de Ilournay amuseil her guest with a little discreet Riviera gossip.

“ Serge told me that you marie an cxcrtlent impression at Brigly,” she adder!. Theywere all loud in your praise!

“ You are too kind,” he answererl, a little absently. “ They were marvelously cordial. D'.Astergy was there while 1 wa.s—have you seenhimsincethen?” ^

“ Serge? Oh. yes, he went to Cannes with us—you didn’t know?”

“ No, I riWn’t knew . . . he wasactually in the party? " „• • -

“ Very much so. I i.n^ginc lhal affair is practically decided.”

“ What! You don’t mean— ,“ But, indeed, yes. My poor friend, liad

vou no idea? Serge lias never lieen so harJ hit—isn't that what you say? And in a great many ways, cvetybody is very well pleased.Of course. Ills mother would have preferred .1 French girl, that goes without saying, but fortunately she has taken a great iiking lo Penelope, and they tell loe tho child was diarming wilii her.”

Do l f scowled and stated at her."But surely . . . I don’t want to be

indiscreet , . . hut wasn’t there an idea that . . . I certainly understood that—’’

“ Oh, yes, we should all have been very glad if Serge and Antoinette could have lieen arranged. I think he would have, later, if be had not met Penelope. He ha.s seen Antoinette grow up, of course. They are very fond ol each other. But tills wa-s a real coiip-dc- /ciiirfrc—you never say ‘ stroke of lightning,' doyou? Ithinknot.”

“ No,” he answered mechanically, “we don't- But tell me; Toinettc, what will she feel? How can d’Astergy—”

“ Oh, liiere ivas nothing definite. Nothing that .Oic knew of. She may have thought, sometimes, perhaps . . . but Antoinette is young. My sister-in-law will take her out more, now, that is ali. They will probably [ spend more time in town."

“ -\nd I thought it was a settled thing . . . . “ Oh, hardly. Desirable, yes. But not 1

immediately, anyway. Serge is only thirty- Lwo . . there were complications. - I

Dolf's lips pinched together. He iiad seen I one Complication, at a restaurant, a blondtl and very charming one.

“ ,\nd these no longer exist. . . . ,'•Bini. fim," she said, waving her hand,' hel

has thought of nobody but Penelope sincebel met her. Serge is .settled, now; his mmd nl fixed.” , , ... ,1

“ Mr. Weston toH me once that they Itkwl old things.” Poif ?akl slowly. “ At least llitl young lady has picked an old family! But II suppose they can pay for it. Great heai ciis I

bfi'lanie de Flournay looked at ium ici: I ously; a slight flush rose on her smoolli im;l'’' '“'rhat is not quite fair, I think, Adotphc! she said, strangely enough for her in 1-resdil “ Serge, as a matter of fact, is very iiniUI Had Miss Weston beenoneof your enoruuuid; j rich compatriots, he would never permitted himself. But she is not. btie til two brothers and a sister, and Mr. divides absolutely equally among them. l.H| that Serge has as much as she, actually, .'i f her health and beauty must be coiifkR'il Madame d'Astergy consulted Heiirr (they ii| second cousins, you know) and be enormously in favor of it. , , , , . ■

‘ “ It has been a longtime, Madeleini.L 5c.| Ihed’-Astergyshavehadan alliance wilh sn| a superli vitality,’ he told her. |greatly in need of such a dol! D'f'l , ' ' 1 ]yy(._are ail that we would wish. U“ 1 finds Penelope’s nature very fine, her qml admirable. , , . 1

“ ‘ She will make a great mother forjcl children, mon pcIiH’ he told Serge, h'f frankly, Adolphe, I agree with him. I mv 1 prefer an American marriage lo an

“ Kvtraordmary!” he murmured. ordinary! The old KoWe.tie—and YW'-J railroadsl And yon, Melanie, you agree

“ Oh, Ihall" she said, with a wave 01 e hand, “ what does that matter? We are 1 in the Middle Ages, my friend. And tnerei a noblesse of the heart—Penelope has it. i

“ Well—all I can say is, she is ve^ lutUJ he said coldly. "No wonder the tr-'T allaiilic liners are so crowded! L

“ And Serge is very lucky, she aiis''e'j obstinately- ‘ ‘AiUz-alkU You arc "'■1 snobs than we, at bottom, you others.

"Perhaps,” he said shortly, and toos '

'^'lle could not understand ''■s,All the savor had gone out of the miM party he was giving them in two days Penelope had literally invited herself H Antoinette on the plea that the Fien*| was too shy to ask, and iieraunt had pK“"| to bring them. He had disapproved o j girl's high-handed methods, hut we glad of the chance to show tbs dem 1 hotels wlial a charming little home co planned by a bachelor who “ "'"iied '1 with a small income. Now he hyacinths and pansies rapidly and | interest, and listened with a tiod I competent if arbitrary servant s views I rerjuisite variety of brioche and w •

“!Jgr'"any kind of cakâll the *1

Madame de Fij

"" 'A s a matter of fact, she prefers n» 'saicl-TOSEPIHNE was struggling with t e 'l a when the bell rang, and Dolf went to “J in but only Penelope stood m '

{Coiilin iial on page ip a i


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5151

A t a Thousand Such WeddingsV OTABLE names at the altar;

J- 1 notable names in the pews. . . . Notable gifts m the gift room. And here, dominating all, the gift of the bride’s family— a solid-silver service.

It was so, last year, at a thousand New York weddings. It has been so, wherever a society contains people with background. Fashion unites with tradition in this decree; the bride’s distinguishing gift shall be a solid-silver service which forever symbolizes what she has attained and whence she is destined.

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In t e r n a t i o n a l S t e r l i n gW R O U G H T F R O M S O L I D S I L V E R ,

-t—A f t T l S T R Y

^ I N T E R N A T I O N A L S I L V E R CO.V A L U E

The Lovely "B rid e ’s Book o f Silver”

[sent free)

l is co v e t is a bride’ s dream, in old rose and silver. Its concents are abride’ s h op e— in p icn irc and story___T ells w h y so lid silver, a tidw h aisolid silver, and h o w t o g o abou t "arrang-i ^ i t . " Presents ten w onderfu l fulI- sirep lates.show ing ten bcide’ sdcsigns in aselection o f flat silver a n d h o ll ow - ware, and g iv in g com p lete prices and descriptions. W rite you r nam e and address in the m argin be low . C lip out this co m e r , and m ail to D ept. 1-103 ■ International Silver C o ., M eriden , C on n .



D ress o f C rcpe Satm . F lou n ce and ‘ N eck and Arm -hole F aggedy Stitch ing. D ou b le Stream ers o f Crepe Satm . F rench B ou q u et on bnoum er.

Transparent H a t o f O rchid H air and G ros de Londres, w ith th e new Short B a ck . T n m m e d w ith Ombrd Flow ers in O rchid T on es, and Silver R ibbon .

H ATS G O W N S

366 Fifth A ven ue, N e w Y ork3 Sth-3 4 th Streets {Olif O n ly S h op )

TTTmiiiiiiiiimiltiiiiinflTT!

T H E S A V A G EJ o s e p h i n e D a s k a m B a c o n s S t o r y

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entrance, more Botticellian than ever in a pale fawn-colored costume and some sort of fluffy, feathery neck-piece.

“ Oh! Come in. won’t you? Theyhavent come yet—how did you find your way over here?” he began awkwardly.

“ I didn’t. The chauffeur asked everybody in Paris,” she answered, swinging by him and exclaiming at the careful little saion, where a wonderful “ find” in tapestry made a successful background for a really regal armchair, all faint gilding and worn brocade.

"I«n’t this ripping! So much nicer than our hotel! And you picked everything out,Iknow!” __ „

His heart softened. Naturally. v\ho else? I have nobody to help me, you know! Have you seen Antoinette? ”

“ Yes, and they can’t come.”She sank into the armchair, took off her hat

with an accustomed gesture of relief, and leaned her pale hair against Ihe pale gold of the carved back. .

“ I get so tired of a h.it, all the time, she explained.

“ They can’t come? IVhy not?“ You see, Antoinette forgot her clmic—

centre i'hygiene, they call it. She goes once a week to teach the mothers about weighing the babies, and all that. They’ve changed the day, il seems. And her mother wouldn t let her off. Stupid, wasn’t it?”

A wave of irritation and disappointment surged over him.

" I ’m afraid,” he said formally, that French girls have a great many obligations and instructions that seem stupid to you, niy dear young lady. That is a very toe work, and much needed in Franire, to-day. \\il! you excuse me H I add that it would not be a bad thing if some of you pampered young butterflies learned a little of tliose things. After all, no nation is stronger than its children.” , ,“ Oh T know ail about that,' she answered indifferently. “ They're awfully backward here, of course. Antoinette asks me the funniest questions. I've done all that, you know, my last year at school.”

"At school?”“ Yes. We had to choose something, and 1 hate sewing (I don't mind cooking at all), but 1 love babies. M'e went to the Bellevue Clinic once a week, for a year. I can wash them and weigh them and feed them and mix the formulas, and everything. I've got a Rrf Cross diploma. The trouble here is the milk, you know—thcv feed the children frightfully badly. Is that a real Tanagra—that little, darling statue?”

He sighed and shook his head.“ Yes. No, ot course. It's an excellent

reproduction. I confess, Miss Penelope, I don't understand you at all. You are certainly an odd mixture- I'm sorry to seem inhospitable, but perhaps we’d better go back to the hotel for tea? Or where you prefer?

“ Everybody’s an odd mixture, aren t they?” she answered, opening her eyes wide. "But why anywhere else? I prefer it here— don’t you?” ,

“ Without a doubt, he agreed, srouing, “ but you see, with nobody else here, I ’m alraid we might be a little criticized—”

“ Oh, for goodness’ sake, Mr. Dolf, how utterly idiotic!” she cried, and laughed her soft, loud laugh. “ Criridzed? With you/ VoyoHs!"

He blushed angrily." Well, I ’m not exactly—” he began.“ You’re exactly yourself,” she mtemipted,

“ and as ridiculous as usual! Anybody would think you were one of those Frenchmen on the stage! (Not that I ’ve ever met anybody like them.) Why, you’re not even an artist.You'renotgoingtoeatme.areyou?”

“ No, but I ’d like to spank you! he said suddenly, and stopped abruptly.

"Oh, everybody feels that way, but they get over it,” she replied calmly. Now, where’s the tea? I’m starved.”

A curious, irritable lassitude seized him. Ile gave her an odd look.

"Very well—we’ll stay, by all means, he said quietly. "Naturally, I should prefer it. Josephine, s’il vous plait/”

He h a d never realized of what resentments, of what revenges he was capable.

He had promptly invited d'Astergy, on bearing Madame de Floumay’s news, and d’Astergy, of course, was bound to tome.

Very well, let him cornel Let him see, at close range and utterly unexpectedly, of the social standards of his fianclel inc ‘‘ noblesse of the heart” was ail very weil-but Doll knew something of French gentlemen. The girl thought she was right, and of course, in these particular circumstances, she wuJ right fundamentally. But would bergc d’Astergy think so? Lethersec! . v .

A strange, gay humor woke m him: ne naa never talked more cleverly. Josephine smiled sympathetically at the peals of laughter that reached to her immaculate, uncomfortable little kitchen.

And suddenly, in the middle ol it all, a black, violent melancholy dropped down on him. What a disgusting thing he was doing! This girl knew what she wanted—yes; then let her have it! But she didn’t know what she was doing—she mustn’t be allowed to do it. Let her learn later what a French fiaiicd expected—but not this way!

“ Como, Miss Weston,” he said abruptly, “ let us go, now. I’m going to take you home. I didn’t tell you before, but I’m going to tellyou now—d’Astergy is coming. Now, don t interrupt me, my dear child, I’m older than you, I’ve lived here longer, and I know the French better. More than that, Tm a friend of d’Astergy, and I can’t, from his point of view, insult him. You must simply take my word for this. We’ll go, and you can tell him that the others couldn’t come, and so we went to the hotel- This, from his point of view—”

"His point of view! 'Why do you keep harping on that?” she cried, scowling.' “ What do I care for his point of view?”TTE STRODE over to her, seized her hat, LT- and with angry, trembling fingers jammed it down on her head.

“ You little fool,” lie muttered betsveen his teeth, pushing at the hat against her strong, young hands, “ you poor little fool! Do you think you can marry into an old French family and not caro for your husband's point of view? You’re mad! Stark, raving mad! ”

“ I’m not nearly so mad as you arc,” she said angrily. “ You’re crazy, yourself! Who’s going to marry an old French family? Not me!”

“ You’re not going to marry d Astcrgy?“ No, Tm not. Certainly not.“ ■liicn-then—who are you going to

marry?” he demanded, staring at her and shaking her by the shoulders.

“ I—-I svanfed to marry you!” she said simply, and opened her eyes wide at him.

He gazed helplessly into those great, hazel, wide-set eyes, and the weight and the pain and the rage that had nearly burst his heart melted away into their lovely depths and he knew them for the jealousy and the hatred and tlie himger they had meant. So that was it! It was love! He was staggered.

“ Oh, Penelope! Not really? Not really, my darling? ” lie whispered and kissed her.

“ ■Yes,” she said, “ all the time. Didn’t you—Dolf? ”

“ Oh, lord, yes!” he groaned." I told Serge he’d better many Antoinette,”

she added, smiling happily at him. "He can, now, with that actress out of the way, and they'll get on very well, I ’m sure.”

"That act—you knew—”“ Why, of course,” she said, “ everybody in

Paris knows.”“ Great heavens! But Antoinette—“ Why, of course,” she repeated, smiling at

his discomfiture, “ Toinette knows, too, of course. Did you think she was an idiot? You are so silly, Dolf!”

“ Great heavens! ” he sighed again.He rose from the arm of the chair and drew

alongbreath-“ My dear,” he said, “ this is ail very well,

but I ’m a poor man. I ’ve always had three thousand a year, unfortunately, and I don: work as hard as I should. I ’ve no right to go to your father and—”

“ Oh, father approves of you awfully, she interrupted. “ He says you’ll be all right, once you get your neck into it! ”

“ You mean your father knows—'“ Father knows everything about me, she

said. “ We tell each other everything!“ But perhaps your mother won’t—’ „ “ Mother wants me to have what I w-aiit,

she said. “ She doesn’t care. And she Ikes you—she thinks you’re very distinguished looking!” . 1

He sat agjdit on tlie arm of the chair snu kissed her in a confusion of happiness and wonder. . .i,.

“ You ore rather like the Frenchmen in tneplays, after all, Dolf, aren’t you? sheobserved, smiling her wide, irresistible smue.

He sprang up, horror stricken- „“ Oh,Penelope!"hegasped. “ Howcould “ Ttore, there!” she soothed, “ S

mother are coming any moment—it 11 he an right! I’ll be chaperoned.”

“ You—you asked them?” ." I suggested it.” slie answered catriessu j

“ Father is really pleased, you know—he saiu it looked as if you would really be able lu manage mel” . , , , ._j.

She stood opposite him and he put his lianos on her shoulders. The years dropped out w his face and the boy that lives in the m® « his race eternally floated in lus troubled ey •

“ Oh, my dear, my dear, do you can manage you?” he question^; nearly forty years old, Pen, and I ' ’® ” j been in love, really. Can I ever manage V

toe pul her hands easily on his shouldetsand stood eye to eye with him. „ ^

“ I am awfully easy to manage, dear, said, “ if I have what I want!”


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 153

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154

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“ You knew that you were summoned?” she asked.

“ 1 knew,” he assented, “ but for a man of my age what did it mean?”

“ You have not received your quittance,” she reminded him. " 1 still hold your confession."

He frowned.“ A foolish affair.” he murmured. “ Nevertheless,” she persisted, “ it would

be better destroyed.”“ Perhaps,” he admitted. “ Will you

destroy it for me?”“ Upon terms,” she answered.FJe looked at her curiously."What terms?” he inquired, “ What is

there I could do for you? One knows that you are wealthy. One imagines that you have long since passed from that exotic but wonderful world in which for a few years we lived. What service could I render to you? ”

“ That I shall explain presently,” she promised- “ Do you* remember why you broke olT your connection with us so abruptly? ”

“ I do,” he answered drily. “ I broke it off because I discovered one day that my son had joined the little band ot your adherents. The Viigins were a wonderful society, dear Madame, but there was something incongruous in the idea of a father and son both belonging."

She assented with a little sigh.“ It is your foolish English custom of

varying names,” she obsen'^. “ How was I to know that Hugh Cardinge was the son of the Earl of Westerton? . . . Have you seen or heard of your son lately?” she continued, after a moment’s pause.

Her visitor’s face hardened. Only his voice, so carefully restrained that its iri- flextnns became almost unnatural, gave indication of his suffering.

“ Not for sixteen years,” he replied- “ That was about the time that the few pounds a week I was sending out to Canada began to come back to me. I had hoped,” he went on, “ that the war might have brought him once more into the world. He had led a wild enough life, but there were many who found salvation in that way.”

Madame leaned over and deliberatelyCossessed herself of his hand. She called

im by a name which belonged to the past. “ Francis,” she said, “ I suppose you read—

there were notices about Itim in all the English papers—of a Colonel Carde, a Canadian private when he joined up at the beginning of the war, a V. C. and a Brigadier when he finished.”

“ ttTiat about him?” he demanded sharply. “ That Colonel Carde was Hugh Cardinge—■

your son.”For a moment he knew then that it mu-st

be ali a dream—that forced drive up into the hiJls, the stolid chauffeur, the villa, Madame, this odor of rosea and lemon verbena which seemed all the time in Ms nostrils. Now il was fading away. Yet Madame was still there, leaning over him; the sound of another voice, too, the pressure of a glass between his lips. The sadden darkness was passing.

“ Francis, be brave, dear friend,” she whispered. “ Drink tMs. . . . Now sit quite dose to me. I shall tell you the story of a hero, and presently—well—you shall

/ ’"’’L.AIRE, a vision of loveliness in her pale pink summer gown, bareheaded, her face

turned sunwards, as though defying alike the wind or tlio .sun itself to affect her almost perfect complexion, crossed the road a few minutes before the car containing Lord Westerton turned in at the villa gates, passed along the avenue of cypresses, and, skirting the farm-house beyond, climbed to where Cardinge was working in a field .adjoining the vinejrard. He welcomed her cordially enough but showed slight disposition for conversation.

“ No golf this morning?” he asked.“ No golf, no tennis, no diversion of any

sort," she replied. “ Consequently, here I am.”

“ You are very welcome,” he assured her, “ but I am desperately ljusy.”

“ That is fortunate,” she observed, picking up an empty basket, “ because I am in the mood to mtdce myself useful in any desired direction. There are preparations for a visitor at the villa and Madame, my dear aunt, although she will never admit it, is, I think, a little nervous. What can 1 do?”

“ You can pick that second row of peas,” Cardinge directed. “ Who is this visitor? I thought we had come to the emi of the list.”

“ It is the la-st,” Claire confided. “ I do not know his name, but I do not imagine from Madame’s manner that it is a serious affair. In any case you will meet him. I was to tell you to be sure and not forget that you were expected to luncheon this morning.”

Cardinge sighed.“ Madame is indeed hospitable.” he ob

served, “ but I wish that it were not right in the middle of a busy day.”

“ What swank!” she scoffed. “ Just been you are doing a few days’ work—probably for tlic first time in your life—you preleail that the place can't get on without you for as hour or so. What do you tliink could possiljly happen to the peas and the strawberries and the artichokes, the vines and the beans and the little field of corn? Nobody’s going to run away with them, are they?”

“ My child,” he replied with a grin, as he paused in his labors for a moment to fill his pipe and light it, “ you are profoundly ignorant of tlic arts of husbandry. These things all need attention.”

She laughed back at Mm as she turned at the end of one row of peas and began another.

"So proud of your little farm, aren’t ynu? ' she observed. “ You think that everychins on it languishes if you are not strolling about with your hand.s in your pockets encouraging things to grow.”

He removed his pipe from Ms mouth and looked at her fixedly.

“ Is it my fancy,” he demanded, “ or are you making fun of me?”

“ No one would dare to do such a tMiig," she assured him hastily. “ Certainly not a little coward Uke me. . . . TMs basket ot peas is getting very heavy.”

“ Set it down and fill another,” he advijtd. “ There are plenty of empty ones at tlie end of the row. Y’ou haven't been working for a quarter-of-an-hour yet.”

She fetched another basket.“ .Another ten minutes will be all you're

getting out of me this morning,” she declared. “ Luncheon is at twelve o’clock, and Madume likes us to be on the terrace a few minutes before.”

He glanced at Ms watch.“ I must go and get ready,” he announced.

“ Come and sit on the porch when you have done as much as you want to.”

^L.AIRE watched Mm descend the hill;a lean, masterful figiae, whom no one

could possibly have mistaken for a peasant, although he wore the blue jean clothes and thick boots of Ms fellow laborers. After he had disappeared she filled her second basket and presently strolled down to the farmhouse, sinking with .a little exclamation ol relief into a comfortable chair on the cool white flags, and drinking half a glass of the cider which Marthe, the fat old Ixmiii, brought out for her.

Marthe was in a depressed state of mind. She extended her hands with a lugubrious gesture. ;

“ Again to-day,” she complained, “ Monsieur takes bis dejeuner away. .And to me not a word of warning. All is ready for the omelette. The chicken, the vegetables, they prepare themselves. It is the tMrd time in five days. I ask you, mademoiselle, how can one keep, house with economy under such conditions.”

“ Very soon.” Claire reminded her, *we shall be away. Then the villa will be shut and monsieur will take his luncheon here every day.”

Marthe withdrew, still grumbling, and Claire leaned back in her seat. Several pigeons were waddJing about in tho shade, and there was on insistent buzzing from the lung row of hives a few yards away- Overhead the sky was blue and unclouded and a little breeze came murmuring down the rustic rose pergola. The farm-house had been bulk on the ruins of an old chateau and masSCs and pinnacles of the cool, gray stone still remained. It was a place which seemed to breathe the very atmosphere of rest. Claire rose to her feet wilh a iittie sigh of regret when at la.st Cardinge appeared.

“ I cannot tell you why,” she remarked, "but it seems so much more peaceful down here than at the villa. You don’t want a housekeeper, do you, Hugh? ”

“ Badly,” he answered."M y keep might be a little expensive," she

ruminated. “ I always seem to eat more tliaij any one else in hot weather, and you know 1 am naturally very lazy. I could not possibly get up at those awful hours you say you are in the fields. Otherwise, I should certainly not be grasping.”

“ And the villa?” he queried.She made a little grimace."Hugh” ' she confided, “ Madame is getting

restless. I know the signs so well. ’To-day she is expecting the last of lier Virgins. I aw sure that when he is gone, she will make up her mind to leave—that one morning I shall wake up and find a maid packing my things.

“ Well,” he reminded her, “ it is gettnig late in the season for this part of the world. You will probably go to Deauville whc'c .Armand is, or to Aix. It will be gayer for you there.”

“ But I do not wish to go,” she protestel vigorously. “ I have taken this country into my heart. I do not wish to leave it. I prcfor

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T R E H I O N S f o r 1

Treo Fashions a r e a l l m ad e o f s u r g i c a l e l a s t i c - w e b b i n g s “l i g h t w e ig h t w eb ” , "T reo tex ■web” , a n d "F ren ch s ty le o f h an d -k n itted su r g i c a l -w eb”, com h in ed 'w ith va r iou s b rocade m a ter ia ls ■which en cou ra ge red u c in g a n d g i v e th e a c e f u l l y r e s tr ic ted f i g u r e w i t h fa sh io n a b le freedom .

CHARMING Treo fashions— original creations embodying a diversified character of construction superbly suited to the

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A variety o f Myles carried by Corset Departments and Specialty Shops

T P . E O G I R D L ES u rgica l elastic w e b predom inates in T reo Qirdles

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T R E O C O M P A N Y , In c ., M anufacturers, 2 6 7 F ifth A ven u e, N . Y . C .Distributing Corp., Ltd., 60 Wilson St., Finsbury Sq., London. E-C-2

Canada: Eismin & Co., 24 Spadina Avenue, Toronto Cuba: Havana, Aguiar 105


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{Concluded from page 13 4 )

to wait for the vintage. I want to see you press your grapes, Hugh. I want to see you unbend and attend the fete up at the village.”

'T l would give me great pleasure to have you stay here,” he assured her fervently. “ I shall find it very lonely without you.”

•She was suddenly serious; a condition of mind to which she seldom attained.

“ How nice to hear that, Hugh!” she exclaimed. “ I wish you would tell me so more often."

OHE seized his liand impulsively and they ^ went swinging up the steep meadow together- Presently die looked at him with anxious eyes. “ I beiieve that you are not well, Hugh,” she declared.

"Well? I am perfectly well,” he insisted. 'TVhatever put such an idea into your head? ”

“ Why, your hand is hot, for one thing,” she told him, “ and you seem out of breath already. Am I walking too fast? I always have the idea that I can never tire you.”

He laughed and slackened his pace. “ All the same,” he confessed, “ I am getting old.”

“ Rubbish!” she scoff^. “ I wish you would not talk like that, Hugh. You are always trying to play the elder brother with me and I do not like it. I know exactly how old you are, .so it makes no difference. I suppose you realize, too. that you look years younger since you settled down here.”

“ AVho wouldn’t?” he answered. “ One thrives alwajrs in the simroundings one loves, and I do love the place and the life here.”

“ ,So do I,” she agreed. “ I love the villa, too," she added, as they crossed the road and entered the grounds through a small gate. “ The only drawback is that sometimes I feel absolutely terrified here. There is sometimes an atmosphere about the place which is almost sinister. That dear aunt of mine creates it, I suppose, with all these strange visitors and the things she sets them to do. I was simply terrified last week. I loved Mr. Sarle and I have never seen any one in the world I detested so much as Maurice Tringo. Shall you ever forget that luncheon?”

“ It was not a cheerful meal,” he admitted. “ It was ghastly,” she declared. “ My aunt

always tells me,” Claire continued, “ that I must walk through these dajrs of my life witli my eyes shut. But how can I, Hugh? I am not a child any longer. Aunt forgets sometimes my age. She often treats me as though I were a child.”

“ When is Armand coming home, Claire?” he asked her abruptly.

“ When I promise to many him, he says,” she replied flippantly- “ If he means it, then it will be never.”

“ That will be a great disappointment to him,” Cardinge said gravely.

“ I am not so sure," she rejoined. “ You know how short a time he has been in Deauville, and he has confided to me that he has already a love affair with a manicurist, a professional danseuse, and an English countess. He is willing, however, it seems, to relinquish all these if I send for him.”

“ .And you?” he asked. “ As you are not able to indulge in the feminine equivalent of these little enterprises, how do you feel about his absence? ”

“ I miss him for golf and tennis,” she admitted. “ Sometimes I used to enjoy an expedition up into the hills with him, although he grumbled always when I made him walk far. On the whole, though, I find life more comfortable when he is not here. There have been times when I have hated him.”

“ Madame still clings to her scheme. She wishes you to marry him, I am sure,” he remarked.

“ Do you?” she asked him point-blank. “ No.”Claire halted for a moment and laughed.

She thrust her arm through his. “ Why not?” she ventured softly.

There was a fire in his eyes which for a moment brought her a sort of frightened happiness. The smile faded from her lips. She listened eagerly.

"Because,” he said, “ if I were Arraand’s age and if I were not next door to a pauper, I should want to marry you myself.”

“ I should never marry any one so young as .Armand,” she told him, “ and—I have plenty of money.”

He laughed a little hardly.“ Wo don’t understand that sort of marriage

in England,” ho said. “ If a man has nothing to give, he offers nothing.”

“ You have your dear self,” she whispered, with a little sob in her throat-

A/TADAilE leaned over the balcony and called to Claire- To Cardinge’s surprise,

Eric Brownleys descended the steps and advanced to meet him.

“ HuUo, Brownleys!” he exclaimed, as they exchanged greetings. “ I thought you’d shaken the dust of this place off your feet— got ;.’Our quittance, and all that.”

Bnwnleys nodded.“ 1 came over to-day,” he explained, “ on

rather a different errand. There’s some one up there, Cardinge, wants to see you very much—some one whom I think you, too, ought to be glad to see.”

Cardinge seemed unconsciously to stiffen. Brownleys laid his hand upon his shoulder.

“ Look here, Cardinge,” he continued, “ I don’t know a damned thing about the trouble there was in the past between you and your father, but although we’re sort of distant connections I wouldn’t have dreamed of interfering if it hadn’t been rather thrust upon roe. But after all, you know, we’re none of us getting any younger and the old man—I beg his pardon—Lord Wcsterlon, has been shaky for a year or two. They roped me in this morning to come and look after him. Couldn’t make out where he’d got to!”

“ Brownleys'”“ Hold on, old fellow! Think well before

you turn away. He is your father after all, you know, and, to be brutally frank, I am afraid his number isn’t far from being up. I'll tell ynu somethin you perhaps don't know. Before j'ou joined Madame’s little company, he was one of the Virgins—’her senior Virgin, she used to call him.”

“ Good God!” Cardinge muttered.“ He cleared out when you came along-

Father and son in that galerie didn’t seem exactly in order. . . . Anjnvay, Madame sent for him and, though he woiddn’t come at first, he’s here now right enough. She’s just toid him that little story about Colonel Carde, and the old man’s as proud as Lucifer. Of course, he was wrong to cut up so rough just because you went the pace a bit, and he knows it, but you can afford to be generous. You’ve a good many years left. He hasn’t."

“ Where is he?” Cardinge asked, a little unsteadily.

“ On the terrace there, waiting.”Cardinge started off at once. They met on

the steps, the likeness curiously apparent as the elder man straightened himsoU. They grasped hands.

“ Hugh, my dear boy,” his father began— “ Your coming here is quite suffident, sir,”

Cardinge interrupted. “ Come and sit down. I want to hear about Westerton.”

“ And 1,” his father said, “ want to hear a little more about this‘ Colonel Carde. . .

Presently the bell rang for luncheon and the others found their way on to the terrace.

“ And who is the young lady? ” Lord Westerton inquired, as he took his son's arm. " I saw you coming through the wood together. May I not be presented?”

Cardinge held out his hand to Claire. “ Claire," he said, “ this is my father, Lord

Westerton. I hope that you will be very great friends.”

l/ord Westerton bowed; an art which he had learned in the old days when he had been ambassador to the Court at Vienna.

“ You are my son's friend,” he said, "and I am grateful lo all those who have tried to make up for the shortcomings—I am afraid Iraustsay, the injustice— ”

“ Not another word, sir, please,” Cardinge mterrupted-

His father let go his arm and took Claire’s. “ If Madame permits, you will sit next me,

perhaps," he begged. “ Afterwards 1 hope to persuade you and Hugh to motor back with me to Cannes.”

TV/T.ADAilE met Cardinge and Claire on their return from Cannes that evening

with an open telegram in her hand. There was tragedy in her face, but also more than a gleam of humor.

“ Hugh!” she exclaimed. “ Claire! What am I to make of this? I had a long letter from Armand this morning—a third of it about an English countess—I have forgotten her name—a third about a little manicurist, and a third about a danseuse at the Casino. There was a postscript too about an American widow whom he had just met. Now I get this dispatch. Listen! ‘ Have married her. Love. Armand.” '

“ But which?” Claire cried.Madame extended her hands. Her ex

pression was one of helpless constejnation. “ But who knows?” she replied- They all three looked at one another.

Then Madame began to laugh softly, “ Armand is a fool,” ^ e said. "He lias

enough money fortunatdy, and I have no real responsibility with regard to his doings. I suppose the world would say, though, that he is not more of a fool than I. Paul must be taken care of, so I have promised to marry him next week. It is your future alone which disturbs me, Claire.”

“ My affair entirely,” Cardinge declared joyously. “ We’ve got most of it planned already. I am putting a caretaker in at the farm and wc are going back to England with n^ father next week, and returning here at vintage time for our honeymoon.”

Madame leaned over in a rare fit of gradous- ness and kissed her niece tenderly, “ So we are all fools together,” she murmured.


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 157

£ 6

A w a k e n Y o u r S k i n !

The active skin is a beautiful sktnTsaysHelena Rubinstein

N o w is the season when all N ature is astir. T h e brooks arc breaking the fetters of

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T h e “ m a g ic” that m akes ot Valaze B eautifying Skinfood the universal beautifier of com plexions, you ng or o ld , is the m agic o f stimulation. T h e “ secret” o f the m arvelous rejuvenating pow ers of those tw o w orld-renow ned pungent lotions, Valaze E au Qui P ique and Valaze E au V crte, is the secret em ployed b y wise N ature herself— Circulation.

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I f you have th e fresh, firm skin of youth , the Science of Helena Rubinstein will enhance and preserve its beauty . I f y o u have a w eary, w eather-beaten or b lem ished skin, the Science o f H elena R ubinstein w ill restore to it its rightful heritage o f beauty.

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Famous Valaze Beauty PreparationsHere you will fi.ud an. unfailing Falazf rnmndy for every d'fect of complexion and contour.V a la ze C lea n sin g a n d M assag e C rea m — most effectual for the quick, easy removal o f dust, grime and make-up. $.75, $1.25, $2.50V a la ze B e a u ty G ra in s— when you want a substitute for soap to rid the pores o f impurities and refine the skin texture. $1 .00 , $2.00

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$1.25, $2.25, $4.50V a laze E x tra it— the mild anti-wrinkle lotion with a magic for refreshing tired eyes and faces and eradicating crowsfeet. Designed especially for thin, dry, sensitive skin. $2.50, $5.00V a laze E au V erte— Insiantaneously rejuvenating stimulant for faded and discolored skin inclined to dryness. $3.00, $6.00, $11.00V a la ze Eau Q u i P iq u e— rejuvenating stimulant for the oily skin.

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$5.00, $10.00V a la ze G e o rg ln e L a ctee— a wonderful corrective of relaxed muscles o f the face and throat. Keeps the contour clear-cut and youthful. $3.00, $6.00V a la ze G re c ia n A n ti-w r in k le C re a m (A n th o s o ro s )— the richly nourishing cream for thin, dry, wrinkled faces and throats. Prevents and removes crowsfeet and unlovely hollows. $1.75, $3.50V a la ze C rem e o f L ilies— beautifying powder foundation for the dry skin.

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short a tim e as one m onth, note an am azing im provem ent in her com plexion.

Beautifying Treatment For Every Woman

B efore retiring, cleanse w ith Valaze Cleansing Cream . On alternate nights, wash w ith V alazc Beauty Grains, th e penetrative, refining soap substitute. T hen after drying the face, sm ooth o n a film o f the clearing and purifying Valaze B eautifying Skinfood, le t ting it rem ain on until morning, except o n the nose and chin. Price o j Preparations complete, $2 .py.

I n the m orning, cleanse with Valaze Pasteurized Face Cream, patting it w ell over the face and throat. R em ove cream and pat the face and throat briskly w ith a piece o f co tton saturated w ith Valaze Skin-toning L otion . F or dry, sensitive skins, use V alaze Skin- toning L otion Special. Price of Preparations complete, $2 .sy.

Restorative Treatment For the Older WomanBefore retiring, o r during leisure

time, cleanse the face and throat w ith Valaze Cleansing Cream ; rem ove cream. F ollow w ith an application o f Valaze E xtrait in w arm compresses over the eyes; retain for a few minutes— m arvelously effectual fo r erasing fine lines; rem ove compresses and pat them over the face and throat. F ollow with an application o f th e wonderfully rejuvenating stim ulant, Valaze E au V erte (if the skin is o ily substitute V alaze E au Qui P ique). This will induce an extrem ely beneficial tingling sensation. W hen the tingling has ceased, app ly V alaze H erbal Cream , a rich ly nourishing em ollient that w ill feed and revitalize the tissues. R etain fo r a few m inutes and then rem ove. P at the face and throat w ith V alaze Georgine Lactee, an astringent balsam designed to firm and brace relaxed muscles. Finish w ith an application ot V alaze G recian A nti- wrinkle Cream (A nthosoros), patting it all o v e r the face and throat and finger-printing i t about the eyes; retain as long as convenient, preferably over night. P rice o f Preparations complete, $ i 6 .oo.

B oston — 234 B o y ls to n St. D etro it— 1540 W a sh in g to n B lvd. N ew ark— 951 B road St.

L o n d o n — 24 G r a fto n S t ., W . I. P aris— 126 R u e d u F b g . S t. H o n ore

46 W est 57th St., N ew Y ork 30 N. Michigan A ve., Chicago You will find the Valaze Beauty Preparations at the sm arter shops everywhere


158

' e a c o c k ^

y o o k ^ b A i n g

A N T O IN E T T EAllPatenc........... r il-00A ilTan Calf............ 1 100A ll W hite K id .- ------ 12-00

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7 y/ est 4 2 -St. atffiftJi jitJe./ 7 / 2 r \ / „ A J L O N D O N

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T H U S M U S T T H E R I D I N G - H A B I TB E C U T

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N A M E ____

A D D R E S S .

rides astride? In tho absence o! any prescribed and accepted habit certain judges have decided that the habit sliown on page 114 « permissible. This is an adaption of the man s suit for show purposes. It consists of military trousers (not jodphores; these trousers ate not so full as jodphores) of dark blue whipcord, fitting the leg easily all tlie way down, and wilh a line of black braid dowu the sidc._ \\ itft this is worn a more formal coat than is ever worn with breeches—a single-breasted frock coat of black melton with a seam at the waistline sloping low toward the back. There is a concealed cash pocket at the seam. With this, indicating its formaUty,. is worn the formal high hat, a white or buff vest, sqiiare-tqed militao’ spring shoes cut in one piece with elastic on the sides for ease in getting them on, white gloves, and a white stock- These shoes are different from the jodphore boot usually worn wilh jodphores.

Jodphores are not permitted women riders. They are totally out of place in the park or even for country riding. For girls under fourteen and for boys Iliey ate excellent. They are so easy to step into in comparison with breeches that have to be buttoned and carefully adjusted and worn with hot, high boots, that children are permitted this comfort. A correct costiune for a girl under fourteen is shown on page 1 14 . The coat may be of several fabrics—tan or light brown homespun or a diamond pattern in brown and white homespun. The shoes are tan jodphore shoes or shoes with a square toe that lacc up the front. Then comes a white silk or linen shirt, a mannish tie. and a soft brown felt hat, usually worn pulled down on the sides.

.A correct polo costume is shown on page 1 14 . The coat is seldom worn in play as it is too warm. The wide polo belt on page 117 then makes a fitting finish to the shirt. Usually only one glove (on the riding hand) is worn: if a glove is worn on the mallet hand the fingers are ofl-

The two suits shown on page 1 1 s are typical astride costumes. There is no variation in the cut of coat or breeches, and only the many possible combinations of fabrics distinguish one habit from another. No cut of coat except that sketched is good form for the astride habit. As indicated in the two .sketches. conriderable variation in the length of the coat is permitted, according to the height of the wearer. Covert doth makes a good habit, and here coat and trousers generally match. One of the models sketched shows Bedford cord breeches, diamond patterned browii and white homespun coat (or any good plain tan or brown homespun), a white silk or linen shirt with the typical man’s collar, a buff vest, brown bowler, brown boots, dogskin or chamois gloves.

The second habit sketched shows a black melton coat, trousers of a faint, indefinite check in gray and white with a blurred edge— a shepherd’s plaid (black and white check is too conspicuous), white shirt, black bowler, black boots, and chamois gloves.

Norfolk jackets are not good form, nor s the color green ever used for astride habits. It is used in some side-saddle habits, a very dark shade, for the hunt.

Since astride habits are never of the first formality, none of the accessories of extreme formality are permitted with them—never a high hat (except for the occasion cited on page 1 14 ). never black patent-leather boots- A stock is, however, alloweii—in white or in colors, plain, plaid, or sTiped.

Next comes the question of accessories. First—boots. Various types are shown on pages 1 16 and 1 17 . The usual mistakes are to have the boots too short or too full or both. They should not slope out at the lop, but in, and the whole effect should be one of straight- nes.s and shnmess. They should come as high on the leg as is consistent with comfort-q-that is, they must not, of course, pinch when riding; just slightly below the knee is the correct height. If a stiff boot is worn for riding the side-saddle, it should be about two inches shorter than the astride saddle boot, so as not to pinch the right leg. Usually, however, soft bools are worn for the side saddle. pair of soft tan boots is shown to the left on pageitb.

The formality of the bool depends upon the habit. Patent-leather is the most formal and should not be worn except with formal habits; next in formality comc.s the hunting boot, then the dull black calf boot, then the Ian boot, the field boot, the jodphore boot, the military spring boot, and the low laced boot which may be worn wilh puttees. -AU boots should be kept on trees when not in use. The tan boots may be cleaned with saddle soap and the black ones wilh a black cleaning and polishing oil which comes in a tube (Abercrombie and Fitch). An excellent way to polish boots is with a bone—a mellowed deer shank about nine inches long, impregnated with grease.

Thc correct black patent-leather boots are shown at the right on page 1 1 7 ; the black jodphore boot in the middle; the tan Held boot, laced front and side-top at the left; the hunting boot of black patenl-leatber with a tan top at the right on page 116 ; the military boot next; the soft boot for side saddle at the left. The best-looking spurs have a chain which goes under the heel. .Spurs usually have only a nut, and the rowel is worn only for hunting purposes, el cetera, and by extremdy good riders.

Every horsewoman should be equipped with the proper accessories for putting on and taking off her boots. An ideal bootjack b shown in the middle of page 1 16 . The one- piece jack is more practical than the folding jack. The strip of leather al tho front prevents it from marking the boot and the band of corrugated rubber gives a grip for the oilier foot. Next is shown a boot hook for pulling on the boots and near it a very convenient little device—a jockey lift. One or two of these nickel-plated bfts slipped into the tup of the Ixiot keep the breeches smooth and prevent the buttons from being scraped off when putting the boots on. At the right on page 1 17 is shown a black-handled nickel device for smoothing the breeches down it they have become rumpled in pulling the boots on.

Whips and crops next. In the group at the top of page 116 is sketched a small cutting whip with a hone handle separated from the stick proper by a band of leather dotted in blue; then comes the tan leather stick and finally the white lash. The crop is of brown leather with a white handle with decorative black circles- The third is a plain crop of lirown leather with a silver handle. -At the top of page 1 17 is a long whip of brown leather with a white bone handle cut for grip, inserts of brass, and a thong of blue leather at the end of the lash. The stick is of bamboo with leather knob and trim. Below the overcoat arc shown two summer crops for the horse lover who likes to flick off the flies. The top one is of bamboo with a hotse-hair tail. The other consists of many thongs of black leather interlaced-

Gloves arc an important point. White buckskin are the most formal, the chamois next, then dogskin. -A pair of white buckskin stitched ill black, entirely sewn by hand, is sketched to the left on page 1 1 7 . On the right is shown a pair of gloves of two leathers The backs are brown, the palms tan. and the backs are ventilated. These are fur hard, liot riding in the field. Below the summer crop' is sketched a pair of chamois gloves with a self-color twine crochet used on the finger' to give a belter purchase. Another device for getting a purdiase on the reins is to have the gloves tucked on the inside of the finger' and the palms. Such a pair is shown at the right on page 1 16 . They are of dogskin, (^posite is a pair of winter gloves of dark brown leather wilh a separate pair of cash- mere gloves to slip inside. The air space between the two gloves, as well as the wool itsdf, gives warmth. On wanner days the inner glove may be removed. The well- dressed hor.sewoman wears her gloves large-— so that the hand can be thrust in with a single motion, masculinely.

Fancy or “ horsy” handkerchiefs are m extremely bad taste. Plain white, man's size, is best, the corner showing in the breast pocket; but a handkerchief with a colored border or stripe, sudi as is shown on page 116 , may correctly be worn.

The watch—a wrist-watch—should be a- severe as a man’s. One with a black leather strap is sketched on page u 6.

The only jewelry permitted is what a man would wear—a stick-pin or bar-pin lor the stock—preferably the latter—and cuff-links- The best thing for the pin is a tray crop, whip, or polo mallet in gold or platinum- Puis and links of crystal with a home’s head, shown on page 1 17 , are, however, if kept very simple- • permissible. ,

The polo belt is a wide affair of woolen wen- bing with several leather straps. _

For formal wear white stocks are dc Tliey may be tied as an Ascot or the Prince ol Wales. The stock on the right is narrower- perfcctly straight, ami has a narrow colored stripe. .At the top of page 1 17 is shown a piquii collar wilh a black satin bow tie—- also smart for formal wear. For less formal wear colored stocks are permissible; yep' good-looking ones are in quiet two-tone plaids.ti. . , . . . Ig0liu-100i ll‘b Ml V ... M-.— - - —--------Two good-looking tics are sketched on page 1 16 . That on the right is of while and ligli blue stripes on dull silk. The one on the leit is of percale with confetti in blue, red, brown, and black on a white ground.

Two vests are shown at the top of page up- That at the left is a Tattersail—fine stripes m red and black on white flannel. A dinercnt cut is shown on the right. This is of home-

(Concluded on page 160)


o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 159

Exclusive with 'Theodore H aviland china /s warm, creamy whiteness and deep, rich

glaze due to the patented kiln-firing process. It also gives to color decoration an unequalled brilliance, and makes the china so hard that only a diamond can scratch it.


160

Silverplate from the House o f

HOLMES S EDWARDSB R I D G E P O R T , C O N N E C T I C U T

S U C C g g P B P B V .

rr I N I i -r n a t i o n a l s i l v e r c o .

F A T E K E E P S O N H A P P E N I N G ,A n i t a L o o s ’ s S t o r y

{Concluded fr o m page 10 7 )


S o I w ould ra th er ta lk w ith a b o y who has been through a lo t an d rea lly suffered because a fte r luncheon I w ill h av e to ta lk qu ite a lot w ith M r . B artle tt .

A p r i l m b .

La s t n ight there w as re a lly qu ite a m askec- ' ade b a ll on the ship. I m ean m ost o f the

sailors seem to h av e orphans w hich th ey get from go in g on the ocean w*hen the sea is ve ry rough . So th ey to o k up qu ite a collection. I m ean M r . B a r t le tt m ad e qu ite a long speech in fa v o r o f orphans especia lly w hen their p aren ts a re sailors. H e re a lly likes to m ake speeches q u ite a lo t . So then th ey h a d the m askerade b a ll. So qu ite a few o f them w ere q u ite cute because one gen tlem an re a lly io o k ^ iilfp a n im itatio n o f M r . C h ap lin . D o roth y an d I re a lly d id not w a n t to go to d ie b a ll b u t M r . B a r d e t t bough t u s tw o scarfs a t th e little sto re w hich is on th e sh ip so w e tied them around o u r h ip s an d so everyo n e sa id th e tw o o f u s m ade qu ite a cute C an n en . S o M r. B a r t le tt an d M a jo r F a lco n an d th e tennis cham pion w ere th e ju d ge an d everyb od y h ad to w i Jk arou n d . S o D o ro th y a n d I w on the prizes. I m ean I re a lly hop e I d o n o t g e t a n y m ore larg e size im itation s o f a dog a s I h ave th ree n ow an d I re a lly do n o t see w h y the C a p ta in does n o t a sk M r . C a rtie r to h av e a je w d r y sto re on th e sh ip a s i t i s re a lly not m uch fun to go shopping on a sh ip w ith gen tlem en, an d b u y nothing b u t im ita tio n s o f dogs-

So a fte r t t o t I h ad a n engagem ent to go up on th e to p o f th e deck w ith M r. B a r d e t t a s it seem s he lik es to look a t th e m oon ligh t quite a lo t . S o I to ld h im to go u p th ere an d w ait fo r m e an d I w ould b e u p th ere la te r a s I prom ised a dan ce to M r . M ou n tg in z. So he asked m e h o w long I w ould be dancing till, b u t I to id h im to w a it u p th ere an d h e w ould find o u t. S o M r. M ou n tgin z a n d I h ad qu ite a de ligh tfu l dan ce an d cham pgne u n til M a jo r F a lco n s a w u s an d h e w a s look ing fo r m e and h e sa id I re a lly sliould n o t keep M r . B a r t le tt w aitin g . So I w en t u p there an d he w a s there an d i t seem s th a t h e re a lly is m a d ly in lo ve w ith m e because h e d id n o t sleep a w in k since w e becam e fr ie n d ly . B ecau se h e n ever th ough t th a t I re a lly h ad b ra in s b u t w as o n ly a do ll. B u t now th a t h e kn ow s i t i t seem s th ath e h a s been lo ok ing fo r m e fo r y e a rs , an d he sa id th a t re a lly the p lace fo r m e w h en h e got b ack hom e svas W ashin gton d . c . w here he lives- t o I to ld h im I re a lly th ough t a th in g l ik e th a t w a s n ea rly a lw a y s th e resu lt o f fate . S o he w an ted m e to g e t off th e ship tom orrow a t F ran ce an d ta k e th e sam e tr ip th a t he is ta k in g to V ien n a a s i t seem s th a t V ien n a is m F ran ce a n d if y o u g o on to E n g la n d y o u go to fa r . B u t I to ld h im th a t I could n o t an d th a t I re a lly th ough t i f he w a s re a lly m a d ly in lo v e w ith m e h e w ould ta k e a tr ip to L o n d o n instead . B u t then h e to ld m e th a t h e re a lly h ad serious business in V ien n a b u t n ob od y knew i t . B u t I to ld h im I did n o t b e lieve i t w as b usin ess b u t th a t i t re a lly w a s som e girl b ecau se w h a t b usin ess could b e so im portan t.

So he said it w as business fo r the Ltnited Stales go vern m en t a t W ashin gton an d nobody really k n ew w h a t i t w as b u t h im . t o w e looked the m oonlight q u ite a lo t. So I to ld him I w ould go to V ien n a i f I re a lly knew it was business an d n o t som e g ir l because I could not see how business could bo so im portan t. So h e told m e a ll a b o u t it . So i t seems that U n cle Sam w an ts som e new aeroplanes that eve ry b o d y else seems to w an t especially F .ngland an d U n cle Sam h as q u ite a clevci w a y to g e t them w hich is to long lo p u t m ray d ia ry . So w e s a t up and saw th e sun riseI becam e q u ite stiff an d to ld him so. Bec.m ew e lan d a t F ran ce to d a y an d M r . Barlleti h as to ge t o ff th e b o at an d I sa id i f I got off th e b o a t a t F ran co to g o to V ien n a w ith liim I w ould re a lly h a v e to p a ck u p . S o I went lo m y room an d w en t to b ed an d Dorothy cam e in a n d she w as up on the d e ck w ith the ten n is cham pion to b u t she d id n o t notice the su n rise a s she re a lly does n o t lo v e nature but a lw a y s w astes her tim e an d ru in s h er clothes as I a lw a y s te ll h e r n o t to d rin k champgne o u t ot a b ottle o n th e deek o f th e ship as it lu rch es q u ite a lot- So n ow I m u st get up 0= w e w ill b e a t F ran ce th is a fternoon. So I am goin g to h av e luncheon in m y room so ! w iE sen d a n o te to M r . B a r t le t t to let him kn o w th a t I h av e qu ite a h eadache. So I will te l l h im I w ill n o t be able to g e t o ff th e boat a t F ran ce to go to V ien n a w ith him but I w iE see iiim som etim e som ew here else. So M a jo r F alco n is going to com e dow n a t 12 and I h av e go t to th in k in g th in gs o ver an d I lm\u g o t to th in k in g w h a t M r . B a r t le tt called rae a t L it t le R o c k an d I am qu ite upset. I mean a gen tlem an n eve r p a y s fo r those th in gs but ;i g ir l a lw a ys p a y s . So I feel so u p se t I really th in k I w iE te ll M a jo r F a lco n a ll about the airuplaiie business a s he re a lly w on ts to know.A s I h av e rea E y go t to th inking a n d I really do n o t th in k M r . B a r t le tt is a gen tlem an to call m e a ll th o se n am es in L it t le R o c k even il it w a s seven y e a rs ago. I m ean M a jo r Falcon i- a lw a y s a gentlem an a n d I m ean h e w ould really b e u p se t i f h e did n o t find i t o u t. I mcaa M a jo r F a lco n re a lly w an ts to do qu ite a lot fo r u s in London . B ecau se h e know s the P r in ce o f W ales an d h e reaU y th inks that D o ro th y an d I w ould g e t to lUce the Prince o f W ales once w e h a d re a lly go t to meet him, t o I am going to tcE h im a ll th a t M r. Bail- le t t sa id a b o u t th e aeroplane business and I r e a lly do n o t w an t to see M r . B a r t le tt agaia a s I keep th in kin g o f it- So I am going to stay in m y room u n til M r . B a r t le tt g e ts off the sh ip a t F 'rance an d n o t see him . So tomorrow w e w ill b e a t E n g la n d b righ t an d early . . .

M r . E ism a n sen t m e a cab le th is morcms I a s he does e v e ry m orning a n d h e say s to really l| ta k e ad van ta g e o f eve ry b o d y w e meet tra ve lin g i s th e h ighest form o f education.I m ean M r. E ism a n is re a lly a lw a y s right anil M a jo r F a lco n know s a ll th e sigh ts m London including th e P rin ce o f W ales so i t rea lly looks lik e D o ro th y an d I w ould re a lly h a v e quite n d e ligh tfu l tim e in London .

T H U S M U S T T H E R I D I N G - H A B I T

B E C U TM a r i e L y o n s ' s A r t i c l e

{C oncluded fr o m page 13 8 )

spun m a fa in t, indefinite ch eck in w hite , blue- g ra y , b lack , an d brow n.

N o w h ats. T h e r o l l i ^ b rim s spoken o f a t th e begin n in g o f th e artic le are show n on page 1 1 7 . T hese , in h igh h ats an d derbies, a re the la test E n glish m odels. A p e rfec tly stra igh t b rim in a b lack stra w d e rb y is show n on page 1 16 - T h e re is a lso a s lig h tly ro llin g brim , betw een th e tw o, th a t is lik ed b y som e. T h e fe lt h at a t th e le ft o f p a g e 1 1 6 is b em g cons id erab ly w orn an d is perm issible, b u t is not in such im peccable taste as th e sty le s described in the beginning. W ith a so ft h a t som e w om en lik e to w ear a fiber helm et, lined w ith satin, a s a protection . O ne is sketch ed on p a g e 1 16 .

G oin g to an d fro m th e p a rk a co a t is I I s a ry . T h e one. sketched on page 1 1 7 ‘ 1b row nish d iagon al lioinespun w ith h “ '’S (an in teg ra l p a r t o f th e hom espun), collar- an d cu ffs o f red , w hite , an d b lack plaid , n * I c o a t can b e w orn inside out. A n Ishould lo o k la rg e an d h an g lo ose ly ftom tne j shoulders. „ , ■

T h e ra in co at on p a g e i i 5 is o f ta n BuW urj, 1 i.e ., w aterpro o f. I t covers th e rider com-1 p letely an d th e sad d le a s w ell b y m eans 01 ai | e x tra piece in serted fan w ise in th e s lit in i" b ack . T h is g ives p le n ty o f room an d ' ,th e w in d b low in g th e co a t open. Strapslasw ' | | i t a b o u t the legs an d i t b u tton s high.

Standard Silvci Company. . . . , 'iniernaiionil Silver Company of Canada, L m ilea

Toronto, CanadaBy sleainer or train, in a motor-car or an airplane, no mailer where you travel nor why, the nexl Harper's Bazar will show you absolutely the right coslume lo wear. Need we say it will be the Travel Number?


P l E l ^ C E ' A R R O W

o p e n C a rs $5 25 0 ♦ C losed C ars $7000 a t B u jfa lo ; T a x A dditional


The golden glint of a butterfly's wing— The silent song of the infinite

inN JL

a s y m p h o n y o f f r a g r a n c e s , s u b t l e , a l l u r i n g , c r e a t e d t o e x p r e s s t h e p e r s o n a l i t y w h o s e e l u s i v e c h a r m i s e v e r f l e e t i n g , e v e r v i v i d .

. T P I V E RP A R I S . F P A K C E

( Fondec. Ea L774J

L rn P lV E R .iN C .,L l8 E A S T Ifeth .ST .H ew York-C ity

Beauty SecretsFrom ihe P a n s House of Piveroomei ihis tfain/yguide « eharm ana beauty — free to you i f you vsnie L . T . Piver. Inc., 118 East i6 ib Street. ^

C . fO U L T . PIVER.

P A R F U M S O F P E R S O N A L I T YA N D P O U D R E S D E E U ^ E


ecoriomij and a >positive garter runs top

Rollins Runstop ends embarrassing garter runsN o w y o u can b u y a f u l l - f a s h i o n e d s i lk s to ck in g w ith th e ab so lu te guarantee th at n o garter ru n can m ar its sty lish b ea u ty o r in terfere w ith the lasting co m fo rt o n ly a silk s to ck in g can g ive.

R o llin s R u n s to p is a red stripe kn it in to th e sto ck in g w h e r e th e strain is greatest — at the l{nee. M o s t ru n s s ta rt b e tw een th e hem m ed to p and th e knee, b u t w ith R o llin s R u n sto p , n o m atter h o w m any runs start, n o runs go below the red stripe.

In th e zest o f th e dqn ce th e garter clasp m ay g iv e its silen t, v ic io u s tu g , starting th e runner o n its d o w n w a r d cou rse o f d estru ction . B u t th e ru nn er s top s a tth e re d s tr ip e — unseen .............. A g a in thegarter tu g s as y o u s te p o u t o f you r m o to r , o r as y o u d escen d th e step s in to th e b rillian tly lig h ted su p p er room . . . . A lw a y s — th e ru n stop s a t th e red

strip e a t th e knee. Y o u r m ind is at ease. E ven w ith th e sh ortest skirt— a n d th e y are clim bing— y o u n eed n o t suffer from stock in g consciousness.

N o d o u b t, im itations w il l appear. But R o llin s is th e only full-fashioned sii\ stocking with a red Runstop at the kpee.

T h e R u n sto p is a lw a y s red , regardless o f th e c o lo r o f the

stock ings .

T h a t th is n e w R u n - s to p sh ou ld b e a

R o llin s de- v e lo p m e n t

is q u ite natural.

S ince 1892 th e R o llin s H osie ry M ills h a v e b e e n m a k in g h o s i e r y b etter . “ P e r fe ct fit and lasting b ea u ty ” has b een m ore than a p h r a s e . I t h a s a lw a y s b e e n a r i g i d s p e c i f i c a t i o n f o r R o llin s H osie ry fo r m en , w om en a n d ch ildren .

M e d iu m a n d h e a v y w e ig h t silks and ch iffon s. A l l th e co lo rs . T h e greatest im p rovem en t in fu ll-fesh ion ed silk h os iery in a d e c a d e Y o u w il ln o t k n o wco m p le te silk sto ck in g satisfaction until y o u h ave w o r n th e R o llin s R u n stop .

R O L L I N S H O S I E R Y M I L L SDES MOINES. IOWA

Factories: Des Woines and Boone. Iowa Ctlcago: 904 Mcdinsh Bldg., 437 South Wells St.

Denver: 17 59 Lawrence St.Export Departm ent: 549 West Washington Blvd., Chicago

Cable Address: WiKpotier— Chioigo

Rotlins is sold oni/ through reluihle merchants, never h/ house'io'house canvastors.

R O L L I N S H O S I E R YF o r tM en .W o m e n a n d C h ild r en


f o r

g _ A L y h a r m

more Totent than "Perfume Itself

0 ver in E u rop e w o m e n w h o are n o te d fo r their love lin ess are

using a charm w h ich com paratively few A m erican w o m e n as yet appreciate.

It is an after-the-bath “ du stin g p o w d e r " w h ich surrounds th e b o d y w ith a subtly provocative-aura that is n ot so m u ch a fragrance as a breach o f im m aculate clean liness— an air o f springtim e freshness that lasts tbru- out the day and is all th e m o re alluring , because it seem s so natural.

a charm that m akes y o u m o re than lo v e ly — lov a b le

Frankly, th is p o w d e r is expensive. B ut it is utterly u n iqu e . It is k n o w n as "M o tn y D u stin g P ow d er.” I f you d o n o t us.e it, a rare treat awaits you r d iscovery o f it.

T h is p o w d e r neutralizes a ll b o d y o d o r s ; b u t it is m u ch m o re than a d eod ora n t. I t sooth es tb e skm ; but it is m u ch m ore than a talcum . I t is

M A U R IC E L E V YSoli WboUsak Ttistribulors in the U. S. A .

12 2 W e s t 4 l s t S tre e t , N . Y . C .

Maurice Levy, 12 0 West 41st St., N .Y .1 enclose

50c for The Motny Week-End Package con wining specimens o f 7 impotted Motny products valued at two dollars—the ideal way to become icqutineed wiih the finest o f all toilet luxuries.

N am e.

Address..

M orn y a lso m akes a w on d erfu lly fine face p o w d e r and a d e ligh tfu l talcum . Like M o rn y D u stin g P ow d er, these p r o d u a s m ay b e had in various odeu rs , o f w h ich w e re co m m e n d in particular, “ C h am in ad e” , used in seven roya l courts. T h e y are fo r sale b y ail th e b est retailers o f perfum es and to ile t luxuries. DRNY

c

Paris and LondonChaminadeDusiingPowder . . . l5 .7 5a b oxChaminade Face Powder . . . J }.7 5 ab oxChaminade T a l c ........................ J l.so a bottleC ham inadeS oap ................................Jl.OOacakeChaminade Bath Salts . $ 5 and <7.50 a bottle

For Travelers—individual cubes, each sufficient fo t a bath. <5 a box o f l dozen

Also extract, toilet water, creams and other toilet luxuries.


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 161

Onethethe very same silk, stockings

P u re thread silk— the kind that has made Corticelli s e e in g s l k fam ou s f o r years

■makes them sheer a n d hng^xvcaring.

of them wanted Sheernessother Wear — and they chose

•H. -•I,

I C A N p la y a ll a ft e r n o o n w it h o u t w e a r in g a n y o f th o s e a w fu l h o le s

o v e r m y te n n is s h o e s ,” sa id o n e . “ A n d w h e n I m a k e a fa s t r e a ch I d o n ’ t im m e d ia t e ly d is c o v e r a ru n in m y s to c k in g . T h is k in d s im p ly w ea rs a n d w e a r s !”

“ A n d I , ” s a id h e r f r ie n d , “ m e r e ly in s is t o n a s t o c k in g t h a t is s h e e r— th a t is lu s tr o u s a n d f it s s m a r t ly . I w a n t o n ly a b e a u t i fu l s t o c k i n g ! I f i t w e a r s— tant m ieu x! ”

“ A n d s in c e i t h a p p e n s , l ik e m in e , to b e C o r t ic e l l i— i t d o e s w e a r ! ” s a id th e s p o r t s w o m a n .

W om en w ho h ave bou gh t C ortice lli s to ck ings know th ey d o n ’ t have to ch oose betw een

beauty and service. B oth are im perishably kn itted in to this lo v e ly hose w ith the v ery C orticelli silk w hich fashions th em — the purest, so ftest silk— th e strongest silk m ade.

S lip y ou r h and in to the pa ir the salesw om an takes ou t o f the b o x — see h ow sm ooth and lustrous is their w eave— h ow free from spots and cloudiness— h ow clear and even in their cob w eb texture!

A n d C orticelli stock ings fit ! Just as beautifu lly as i f a w om an designed them , they clasp the ankle snu gly and sm ooth ly u p to the v ery top . T h a t is because every pair is so exp ertly w oven and fashioned.

In the sm artest spring shades y o u will find C orticelli H ose at n early all stores.

I f y o u d o n o t k n ow w here to purchase them , w rite us and w e w ill be g lad to send y o u the nam e o f y ou r nearest dealer. Just ask fo r the stock ings w ith the C orticelli k itten tradem ark o n the toe— N o . jo 8 C h iffon , N o . 322 Sheer, and N o . 324 M ed iu m W eight.

Send today for our tree hosiery booklet. The Corticelli Silk Company, Florence, Massachusetts,

Thb C o rt ic e lli S ilk CoMPAf^Y 30 7 N o n o iu c k Street,Florence, MossachutettJ.□ Correct Cobre in Hosiery for Every Occasion D New Corticelli Silks for Spring□ Irene Caatle Corticelli Fashions

^ M r t l e e l l u

I L KH O S I E R T

iii i !

i n

HI)


162T H E

T h e r e isalways charm and individuality in a

F iskh at

\ f ISIT your favorite millinery shop. Select a hat with the name “ Fiskhats” and enjoy the satis' faction o f “ Style and Quality.”

D. B. FISK CO.C reators o f Correct M illinery

C H I C A G O N E W Y O R K P A R I S

m o d e o f n i n e t e e nT W E N T Y - F I V E

M a r i o r i e H o w a r d ’ s A r t i c l e .

(C onlinu ed fro m page 83)

H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f 0 r

the tailored mode, we have tbe two types t^ t the forecast sketches in the March number lead us to expect. There is the short streamline” suit, like that from Martial et Araana drawn by Souli6 on page_ eighty, double- breasted, mannish, smart, This year it times has its jacket of one materia! ana its skirt of another, like this model and like many at O’Rossen’s, recaJlmg the blade coat and striped trousers of men s afternoon dress. All kinds of novel neckwear arc shoiro with it, like the high collar and jabot m the sketch, while its blouse is quite often a regulation waistcoat. , ,

A pretty idea is illustrated m the otIiCT Martial et Armand model sketched—in covert cloth. There is very little change m its straight coat, but instead of a femmine bloure, it has a tailored jacket of sreen_ qttor^n silk, softened againwitha fluffy white jabot. Here isanewideawhichUexploitedin several offlections, andwhichhasaheadytakenontheRiviera. _

Then there is the redingote typ^ wfuch is just as popular as I said it would be. Som^ times its coat ts as slim as ever, sometimes it widens toward the bottom, like the model Irom Bernard sketched by SouU6 on page eighly- three. Notice the new feature of the redingote suit, illustrated by this model and by that from Redfem; the tailored frock instead of the skirt and blouse. There are lots 01 tailored frocks, or coat-dresses, in the new mode. Rremet invented a special mterpreta- lion of them, and gave the first model the

of “ La Gargonne,” which has clung to it ever since. . , . .

This year Madame Charlotte has designed all Premet's tailored frocks with white chemisettes—the three sketched by Luza illustrate this point. She has used the coat;front idea for them, sometimes in a suggestion ot the bolero, as in the model on page seventy- eight, and sometimes in longer coat-fronts, lined with printed cr6pc, as in another model on the same page. Patou hints at the bolero in much the same way, occasionally suggestmg it by double jabots of the material, Bernard puts a short Eton jacket over a slim tailored frock, trimmed only with a row of buttons.

When morning dress is less tailored, it adopts the ensemble idea which is going as strong as ever. A new version this year is a combination of the new silks, such as surah, with prints. The surah is used for a straight simple tailored coat, sometimes unlined, som^ times lined with the printed crepe of which the soft frock is made. These frocks arc a bit more complicated in cut than they were last year, but they still like to concentrate their fulness either at the hem or in front only. About half the coats of these ensembles are straight, either full length or three quarter; the other hdf have some flare at the sides or m front. ‘A determined effort is made to substitute a cape, either short, or thtee-quatWr length, for the coat. This is illustrated m the MartiM et Armand model on page eighty, which is made of dark blue surah and black satin, and which shows another of the novel neckwear ideas.

Many of the frocks have jabots down the front, as in the Beer model on page sev^ty- nine, and the black and wliitc gown from DrScoU, on page seventy-four. This double jabot is Mile. Madeleine’s latest version of the “ cockscomb" dress on which she has been working for some time. The smoke-gray model’ from Drecoll on the same page is included in this Hall of Fame—because smoke is the shade of gray which stands the best cnanre of acceptance; because it is a “ coat front model with that plain back which the mode still insists upon; because it has the coUar which so many of the new modds prefer to the open ceck-!ine; and because, though it is a suminer model, it is trinuncd with fur, for that is a vagary of many collections.

While the three-piece that we now call an ensemble is as much a feature of the mode as ever Yvonne Davidson has invented a special version of her own, that she calls a “ six-pieco. You see it on page eighty-one, but you have no idea of the impalpable cham of the three layers of different colored Georgette one over the other. It is the real creation of an artist. In connection with the ensemble it is interesting to note Lanvin's effort to get away from it, by showing many of her coats and frocL as separate garments.

me by their absolute correctness, as the drawing by Bernard Boutet dc Monvd well shows. His splendid big ulster, “ Rolls-Royce, is lined with fur, even though this is a summer collection, an idea which several oth « house^ including Redfem, have adopted, Does tfus mean ti^t tliey have inside mtormauon ot a wet, cold summer?

The Worth collection showed a new depar- tujg—the inclusion of real working sports dothes, for riding pid for bating. Ldong

A’S l ' O K T S C I . O T H E S

S TO sports dothes, they play a more * important role than ever. I told you about Lansdn’s and Patou’s special departments in the March number, and their success is amazing. Lanvin held a suppleinentary ooening of hers, after her regular coUection onening. The models ate of the same general tvpe as those shown in the March number, with enchanting details. Patou s real sports dothes, riding habits for example, delighted

continued to exploit his mvention, a sports frock of tweed or homespun, which is deverly cut in panels to conceal knickerbockers. Leiiief began his collection with a whole flock of mannequins all let loose at once, and all wearing blouse-jackets of brilliant sports fabrics, with short sleeves, and short, parted or kilted white skirts. 'Vionnet showed some simple white frocks witli regulation ' blazers of colorful striped kasha. , . , ,

Premet had a long series of sunple and pracdcal sports dresses, in white or pastel colors, cut with a flare, and worn with sirap^ scarfs, tied once over in the back of the neck. Georgette continued to use the patterned sweater, knitted in extremdy fine wool, in soft pale combinations of color, such as the beige and d d rose of the model sketched on page seventy-eight, which also illustrates an important new detail—plaiting which makes a pattern. A special machine can plait in zigzags, great rounds, squares, or ovals, and many houses have shown themselves interested in it.

Chanel completed her new sports costumes with extremely plain blouses in fine Rodier jer.scy-kasba, the neck and hem beir^ trimmed with a flat, stitched band ol the tweed or homespun of the rest of the costume. Molyneux has a lot of beige kasha costumes, with vareiisc tops and plaited skirts, and coats which flare at the sides and often have patch pockets.

The Rodier kashas, plain and patterned, their tweed-like “ burafyls” in grays aud browns, and their soft and dinging jerse>-- kasha, are heavily represented m sports costumes. The Meyer dorkas, with their indistinct pattern in self-color, and many 01 their zigzag and striped materials have mter- csted many designers. Several houses propose sports capes to take the place of the ubiquitous straight coat. .

As to the sports dresses, there is still nothing better than the tiareuse blou.se and short skirt either plaited all round or m sections, or with one big inverted plait in front or in the back, The model from Yteb on page cighty- one shows an idea that she has worked out herself for golf. The coat is of a cotton gponge material, and is bloused very much at the top of the hip, on an elastic, to allow of perfect freedom in the swing of the dun. This is placed over a simple frock, of crepe or of wash silk, like tbe sketch, which can M worn for tea-dandng, after play, without the trouble of going home to charge. The froch sketched also shows Yteb’s revival of tne little puffed sleeve. Many of these frocks simply look as it their sleeves had been forgotten.

N e 'w E v e n i n g D r e s s e s

WE HAD a wonderful opportunity to sim up the new evening models at the Bal de

la Couture, held this year in the Thfatre des Champs Elysces and wonderfully managed. Down the center of the hall promenaded two hundred mannequins, wearing the best moMs from their respective houses. There were two or three iiz-nidyjcmefilU frocks with bouBMt skirts, but the rest were invariably slMder, even when their skirts concealed a lot d’ material. \Vhite was the most successful; there was a lot of pink, quite a bit of red, ano a lot of green. . , . . ,

One of the best gowns m the show was a billiard green moire from Paquin, with a long swathed waist, and a skirt in gather^ paneia All Madame Wormser’s mannequms, irom CWruit’s, wore green, and looked extreme^ harmonious in consequence- One had a mos exciting crinoline gown painted by the and process; the mannequin was masked, ana distributed long-stemmed pmk roses, were some, mauve gowns, and a Iw pa;= blues, but the blue looked almost dull ainoi« the others, and proved that it is not one ol tni: best colors f OP evening. . ,

Many fringed frocks illustrated the interest in this graceful tnmimng, with wto Vionnet, this year, has accoinphshed peW marvels. One of the greatest successes ^ Louiseboulanger’s white and silver .the huge bow in the back—and her ebnr Gaby wore it wonderfully. „ onlovely slender white satin bnde, the gown » long crossed lines, qiulc new for followed by maids m bouffant organcne, painted with huge flowers.

(Concluded on page 104)


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 163

French Creams and Lotions Made in Paris!Buy them from that Quaint New York Branch Of the Fam ous P arisian Salon of Dr. Dys

AF R E N C H F R O C K , a F r e n c h h a t , F r e n c h lin g e r ie — a re th e se

e n c h a n te d sy lla b le s t o m a k e fa ir e y e s sp a rk le a n d c lo s e d pu rses o p e n a t th e m e re s o u n d o f th e m ? P e r h a p s , b u t b e

n e a th th e ir e n c h a n tm e n t is a n u n d is p u ta b le fa c t . I t is fo u n d e d o n th e k n o w le d g e th a t th e F r e n c h h a v e a ta le n t in re g a rd t o th in g s fe m in in e — a m a g ic g i f t w h ic h m a k e s e v e r y th in g t h e y t o u c h tu r n t o b e a u t y .

T h e y h a v e b e e n m a k in g th e w o r ld ’ s b e s t f r o c k s f o r g e n e ra tio n s . B u t th e y h a v e a ls o b e e n m a k in g th in g s w h ic h h a v e an e v e n m o r e d ir e c t in flu e n ce o n b e a u t y — th e m o s t m a r v e lo u s c re a m s a n d lo t io n s th a t e v e r g r a c e d a b o u d o ir a n d m a d e th e ir e f fe c ts fe lt e v e n u n t o t h e b a llr o o m .

A s k a sm a rt P a r is ie n n e w h e r e t o b u y th e s e y o u t h -g iv in g p r e p a ra t io n s a n d sh e w ill d ir e c t y o u u n e r r in g ly t o th e s h o p o f V . D a r s y in th e R u e d u F a u b o u r g S t . H o n o r e . T h is s h o p h as b e e n fa m o u s e v e r s in ce th e d a y s w h e n th e m e sse n g e r o f th e P r in ce ss E u la lia u se d c o n s t a n t ly t o b e seen th e r e b u y in g p r e p a r a t io n s f o r h e r r o y a l m istress . B u t y o u d o n o t h a v e t o t r a v e l so fa r t o f in d th e m . V is it o r w r ite t o t b e N e w Y o r k s a lo n o f V . D a r s y , e x c lu s iv e im p o r t e r o f a ll th e p r o d u c ts o f D r . D y s .

I f y o u h a v e n e v e r u se d th e p r e p a r a t io n s o f D r . D y s , y o u c a n h a v e n o id e a h o w m a r v e lo u s ly t h e y im p r o v e y o u r a p p e a r a n c e . T h e r e is a c r e a m , s o ft as th e o ils o f t h e O r ie n t , t h a t s ilk s y o u r sk in a n d m a k e s m e n w a n t t o s a y a ll s o r ts o f lo v e ly th in g s a b o u t it . T h e r e is a lo t io n s o p e p p y a n d t in g lin g t h a t c r o w ’ s fe e t a n d w rin k le s h a v e a b s o lu te ly n o c h a n c e a g a in s t it . T h e r e is— b u t n o , y o u ’ d ra th e r k n o w e x a c t ly , w o u ld n ’ t y o u , w ith n a m e s a n d p r ice s a n d e v e r y th in g ?

S o re a d th is list. S e le c t th e p r e p a r a t io n s su ite d t o y o u r p a r t ic u la r n e e d s a n d w r ite f o r th e m . Y o u w ill b e c h a r m e d b y th e ir m e re a p p e a r a n c e a n d d e lig h te d b y th e ir e f f ic a c y !

A ll preparations made by Dr. Dys and imported by F. Darsy are for sale at these shops: New York— Stern Brothers; Boston— Caroline T. Peabody,551 Boylston Street, San Francisco— Hrhite House, also the Darsy Salon de Jeunesse, 133 .Geary Street. The latter shop is authorized to give complete Darsy treatments.

V D A H S Y17-A West 49th Street New York

54 Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, Paris

CRJIME d e BEAUT^—a wonderful skin food, soft and fragrant, which feeds the skin and removes wtinkies. Trial sizes $1.75: l-oz. jar $3.50: French jar (as illustrated) of more than I oz.. $4.

CREME d u d r . d y s — an exquisite finishing cream to be used before powdering. May also be used on a dry skin before retiring. $1.25. $2.50; large French jar 85 illustrated, $3.

CREME DE L’ lNFANTA— an excellent cleansing cream for a dry skin. This cream was the favorite of the Infanta Eulalia of Spain, who gave Dr, Dys permission to name it for her. $1.50; large French jar as illustrated, $2.

ROSEE DE BEIAUTE—a liquid cleanser and mild astringent, beneficial and delightful even to the mostsensitive skin, $2. $3,75-

LOTION SUPRA—a strong astringent, excellent for firming loose flaccid skin and for eradicating wrinkles, $3. 4-oz. flacon, $5.

SACHETS DE BEAUTi—Rejuvenating herbs to be squeezed into the ablution water- They prevent wrinkles, banish lines and traces of fatigue and give freshness and brilliancy to a faded complexion. Box of 25, $3.50.

SACHETS CONCENTRES-Herb baths which correct coarse pores, oiliness of skin, blackheads- Clear the skin wonderfully. Box of 25, $2.25.

SACHETS SUPRA—Herb baths which firm flabby muscles and reduce puifiness under the eyes, bringing back the contours of youth. Box of 25, $3.25.

Write jor a complexion questionnaire and ihe atlractioe booklet "Plus Que Belle." And do slop in. when you are in New York, “I Darsy's, to have one oj those wonderful treatments jor sagging cheeks, for double chin, for a scrawl^ neck. N arms and hands, etc., for which this salon Is famous.

Certificat d’appreciation from H er R o y a l Highness the Infanta Eulalia of Spain.


164

El e g a n c e , simplicity and charm

. , so gracefully com bined in this new Tailored Ensemble for S p r i n g — characteris tic o f all Models by Mangone!

JMon than 200 sdelied Hores in leading cities o f the United States ojfer the well-dressed ■woman the opportunity to procure Models by Mangone

FOR FURTHER XNPOBMATIOK ADDirESS

cA^ANGONE, TS EW TO RK

T H Em o d e o f n i n e t e e n

t w e n t y - f i v e

M a r j o r i e H o w a r d ' s A r t i c l e {C onclvdcd fro m page i 6 i )

E A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f o r

T h e N e w P a i n t e d D r e s s e s

I M U S T s a y a w ord o r tw o a b o u t the now X. pain ted dresses. T h e m ode h as been em e rim en tin s w ith th em fo r som e tune, b v l th ey h av e on ly ju s t becom e re a lly w earable , th an k s, large ly , to the D u n an d process, w hich blends th e color b ea u tifu lly an d le a v e s the m a teria l Aexible. A lm ost every h ou se show ssom e pa in ted frocks. .....................

T h e first I ever saw w a s a t Y t e b s— tn an gu - la r o r w ave-like arran gem en ts in g ra y and blue on w hite chiffon. T h e n I saw the process b eau tifu lly used b y A g n es th e m illm er, on v e lv e t an d go ld an d rilver tissue, m her ow n lia ts an d in th e gow ns m ade to r h er b y C h fru it . T h is y e a r there a re a few pm nted m o d d s in alm ost e v e ry collection, an d a lw ays in the so-called “ m odem ” designs, w h ich are lik e prob lem s in solid geom etry.

R en Se h as done th e m o st w ith them —-her collection is pa in ted from one end to th e o tM r. She a lso uses a th ick opaque process fo r pa in tin g flow ers on chiffon. L a n v in ’s process also differs from D un an d ’s, an d th e designs are m ore flow ery an d less angu lar. I t scerns th a t the A rts D ecoralifs asked th e couturiers to stress “ m o d em " designs a s m uch a s possible. T h e y h av e done so, b u t th ey h av e been unable to resist the exquisite flow ery p a ttern s ouered b y th e s ilk houses, an d th ey h a v e also used qu an tities o f p la in . T h e y a re w ise m this, fo r I h a v e heard severa l w ell-dressed w om en express them selves a s “ tired o f partern , except fo r the printed fro ck s so charm m g fo r rea l sum m er w eath er. T h e new p ib is t designs ce rta in ly ta k e a lo t o f w earing, thougli th ey are undniibtecUv effective fo r certain wom en, especia lly in the restra in ed harm onies o l sm oke g ra y an d sep ia on g ra y , beige, or s ilver w hich is the color schem e o f the m ajo ri ty A s to the p o lka dots m entioned m the F e b ru a ry num ber, L a n v in ’s en tire collection i s speckled w ith them , prin ted , em broidered, an d painted , an d th e effect is v e ry new.

T h e N e w M a t e r i a l s

Be s i d e s th e w oolens, p a rticu la r ly the k ash as m entioned above , w e find q u an li-

tie s o f th e “ E n glish m ixtu res” in tailored clothes; som e reps, p la in an d chinfi l ik e the P h ilip p e an d G a ston m odel on page eign ty- th ie e ; cr6pella p la in a n d com bm ed w ith silk p rin ts a t C hanel’ s ; an d a re v iv a l o f the lit t le b lade an d w hite ch eck called shepherd ’ s p la id .” A n in terestin g n o v e lty from G o u p y i s show n in th e L a s t M in u te sketches. T h is i s a new process, b y w hich a dress length” is spec ially w oven, p atte rn an d d l , th e design carefu lly disposed a s trim m ing for th e proposed m odel. J u s t enough fo r th is one m odel is w oven a t a tim e, an d a s th e color effects are u sually arran ged in tw o tones o f the sam e shade, th e resu lt is successfu l a n d v ^ y n ew I n d lk s , th ere a re the predicted surahs, som e ottom an , an d sUk serge, p rin cip a lly used fo r ta ilo red coats w ith flo w ery , checked, or p laid prin t dresses.

T h e re is a d istin ct e ffo rt to b rin g b ack ta ffe ta Y o u m a y see how G eorgette does it on page e ig lity -tw o . R e n fe com bines it w ith chiffon or b an d s o f rep fo r costum es. Chane) m akes a coat o f it , w ith a p r in t frock. P o ire t show s a w hole ccillection o f period costum es w orked o u t in it . W orth h as some p la id ta ffe ta su its. T a ffe ta , how ever, seem s ra th er a “ corset m ateria l,” except fo r the ro le de style. I t h ad a long inning in ipoo w hose m ode i t e x a c tly su ited . I t h as been softened b y tim e, how ever, a great d eal since those d a y s . Som e h ouses com bm e tussore w ith p rin ts fo r their ensem bles.

T h e prin ted cr8pes, flow ery o r geom etric, a re m ore ch arm in gly used th a n ever. 1 p a rticu larly lik e th e iit t le checked an d finely striped p attern s. Lou iseb oulan ger h as a de- l ish tfiil fro ck in le a f green checked w ith a lin e o f b row n. Specia l p a ttern s in silk s w hich h ave been used b y a n um ber o f designers a re Cou- du rier ’s ch rysan th em um lam S, D u c h i e s aingle. la rg e flow er on b lack crepe, B ian ch im s p rin t o f b lack-an d-w h ite flow ers, w ith a border o f roses in soft d a rk red s an d green— to m ention o n ly a few o f them . .

T h e chiffons, p la in a n d printed , tn u m p heveryw h ere. P rem ct h as a w a y o f usm g thema s i f t h A w ere a h e a v y m ateria l, w hich is am usin g. R enfie m akes severa l ensem ble costum es o f them . DceuiU et h as foun d a new lin e fo r them , a .sort o f great X o f friUs a o s s in g a t the w aist-lin e. C h an ta l uses one colored lay e r o ver another. V io n n et m akes w hole sk irts in so ft fr ills running u p an d dow n in g re a t scallops. L e lo n g softens h is em broid

ered frocks w ith chiffon tra ils an d in serts, as in the w hite fro ck sketched on p a g e seventy- tw o . H e, in com pan y w ith .se vera l others, w an ts to lead u s a w a y frorti the b eaded slip o f a n evening gow n, an d in to som etiiing a little m ore com plicated in p lan , a s illustrated in the other m odel. .

S e vera l designers h a v e sp eaaliaed m the cirS m ateria ls, p a rticu la rly fo r evening. M o ly n eu x does so in th e gow n sketched on page seven ty-seven , o th ers a re Dcnuillet, D r6coll, W orth, an d l.e lon g . L a c e appears in m a n y m odels, a lw a ys in sm all pattern s and in either th read or m etal. B la c k lace models ate foun d in e v e ry collection.

T h e N e w T r i m m i n g s

T U S T a w ord a b o u t th e new trim m ings—J first o f a ll th e frin ges w hich astom sh u s so m uch a t V io n n et’ s, an d w liich severa l other designers h a v e used less orig in ally . T h e gown fro m C h an e l, sketch ed on p a g e seventy-six, illu sU ate s a n in ven tio n o f the season, beads o f rice g ra in s m ad e in to fringes. I saw thrae a lso a t M a rt ia l e t A rm an d ’s an d P rem et s. M ad a m e V a llc t declared th a t one o f the gow ns h a d to b e b egu n a ll o v e r again , because th e m ice in th e a te lie r a te off th e trirommg! T h e re are s till q u an tities o f dresses mfested w ith b ea d s” lik e th e O ld M a n o f Leeds, though p aille ttes a re h av in g a t r y a t rivaU ng them. W orth uses them in solid m asses o f color, Ute a d o tE , an d D ccu illet h as u sed th e n ew pUm colored cellu loid pruilettes a s a n a rtis t usea pain ts. , , .

E m bro ideries a re astonishm g, a n d among them non e m ore so th a n th e huge Spanish roses w ith w hich L en ief h as decked th e gown on p a g e seven ty-seven . G o ld a n d silver lea th er is a new trim m in g th is y ea r, fo r httlc cu ffs an d collars, som etim es em broidered with fine colored b ead s; fo r appliques, fo r bands, an d edges. L e lo n g h a s a go ld lea th er coal trim m ed w ith th a t n ew b ra id o f w o ven strips o t lea th er an d go ld th read , called “ casoar a fte r th e casso w ary , w ith w hose honest-to- goodncss feath ers Lou iseb oulan ger has trim m ed a b eige ch iffon gow n. T h e re ate m a n y feath er trim m ings, n o t m uch ostrich b u t a lo t o f coq. C h an el trim s ensem bles withi l , T h e re are also lo ts o f fe ath e r co llars and cu ffs o f doubtfu l origin.

A n oth er o d d ity o f th e season is the coUe d e m a ille o f s ilver an d go ld m esh w ork, m- troduced b y L a n v in la s t A u g u st an d used by eve ry b o d y th is tim e. W orth h as a whole overblouse o f it , an d po ck ets an d b elts o f it a re frequ en t. L a n v in ru n s i t d ow n th e seams o f a l& h t crepe fro ck in n arrow Imes hke beading.

A l l t h e D e t a i l s

T 'H I S artic le cannot g o on fo rever, so, i s ix th ly an d la s tly , fo r a w ord on neck

lines, hem -lines, an d other details. I f you th in k the presen t m ode short, w a it tiU yo u sec th e n ew spring m odels. T h a t i s a ll I h ave to sa y a b o u t th a t . N eck-lin es a re v a n M , and there a re q u an tities o f h igh co llars fo r the d a ytim e, som e o f th em h erm etica lly closed, o th ers m ad e to open. E v e m n g d 6 co lle« s ate m oderate in m o st cases, b u t atecu t ex trem ely lo w in th e b ack . P rem et t o an am usin g new b a c k decoUetd sketched on the L a s t M in u te pages, w hich is a n excellent resource fo r u n a ttra c t iv e shoulder blades.

I h av e n ever seen a grea te r v a n e t y ol lingerie n eckw ear; th e n ever-fa ilin g in ven tion isastonishing. S leeves in the m ain are long snntig h t o r fo rgo tten a lto geth er T h e re a re some sh o rt b an d s a t the to p o f th e arm , and there axe a fe w lit t le pu ffs. Som e collections s o cialize in th e im p ortan t decorated ^ e eve ol a fe w seasons a g o ; b o th L elo n g U m m n ut a w ide em broidered one m to a n othersiM p la in fro ck . D rdcoll uses a n im m ense ® n , o ften b ordered w ith fu r. a n d m akes m u ^ rf sleeves a ll through th e collection. Scarfs are n o t ubiqu itous, b u t i f y o u lik e th em y o u may ce rta in ly continue to w e a r th em . Y o u may sw ath e y o u r shoulders m tu lle m the choose a color th a t goes w ith y o u r sh l" y o u r h air ra th er th a n w ith y o u r dress, if V w an t the b e s t resu lts. , . j

A fte r a ll , th e new m odes a re v e ry l e w ®w ith o u r frm lty . W e ca n k e e p on ^sports cloth es; w e ca n w ear o u t our s & s , an d ou r k a sh a a n d p rin t ensemble^ O ur tun ic frocks an d lo n g tu n ic ^stiff acceptab le . O ur s h t t e w evening g o ^need o n ly b e tak e n u p a trifle a.t w hile o u r f lo a ty ch iffon ones require nothing.


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5165

S U B T I L I T E

g_A new perfume dedicated to the women who can appreciate it

CAN you put a bar of music into words? Can you diagram a cloud? Can you de-

fine chic? . - . No.Then what can you say when a new perfume is born . . . ? You can give its genealogy. And prophesy its future.Subtilite is the new perfume from Houbigant.

The modern woman of the moment will feel that Subtilite is her very self, the essence of her complex soul. Gay—but elusive. Alluring but subtle. A light, delicate, fleeting fragrance that isn’t one flower or another, but the soul of many.The woman who uses it once, uses it consistently. Powder, sachet, toilet water, perfume-

all of them breathe for her this disturbing new fragrance that echoes the new colours, the new lines, the restlessness and vividness, the speed and glory and wonder of modem life. Subtilite is youth. But not youth unawakened. Subtflite is chic— but not the chic of America alone, nor yet of France, but the chic of the cosmopolitan world, at home everywhere, at rest never.

All this is expressed in the new perfume, as an artist expresses character in a lightning sketch, or a breath of melody.Perhaps Subtilite is not for you. It is not everyone who understands this perfume for the woman who couldn’t be banal if she tried. Can you appreciate it? Subtilite is a test of modernity, of sophistication!

P A R I SH OU BIGANT, In c .. 16 W est 49th St., New York

H OU BIGANT, Lt d ., 46 Sc. Alexandre St.. Montteal


166 MM MM .....

DoubU-brtastfd Sbagmocr with tbt nrui flare j silhouette. j

’ i\ .

ShagmooT Topcoats A re M oderately Priced

g h a i j m o o r

At fashionable country and golf clubs —- wherever smart sportswomen foregather

— Shagmoor Topcoats are the evidence of good dress, good taste, and snug comfort. The factr that they arc so largely worn is eloquent tribute to their swagger style and serviceability.

Tailored to pierfection, of exclusive Shagmoor woolens; moisture-proof, wrinkle-proof, dust-proof,— to withstand wear and weather.

F n d e r B r o ^498 Seventh Avenue, New York

YPrite fo r booklet illustrating and describing 12 new spring Shagmoor models. We w ill also be g lad to tell you where Shagmoor Topcoats may be purchased.

N O T E S F R O M O P E N I N G S

T h e C o l l e c t i o n o f W o r t h

A S M .A R T w om an could dress a t W orth ’s, th is sp iin g . w ith the assuran ce o f being p ro p erly tu rn ed o u t fo r everj- e\-mt

o f h er life, from riding a n d sw im m ing to being presented a t C o u rt. Sh e co u ld even b u y her lingerie in a special departm en t, a n d her handkerchiefs, b ags, van ity -cases, an d knick- k jiacks dow n-stairs, to sa y nothinfi o f her p erfu m e. T h e re is a n in lerestin g r id i ^ - h ab it, a t th e b ^ m n in g o f th e collection , w ith a n extrao rd in arily n o v d com bination cd sk irt an d b reo d ies m iracu lo u sly cu t in o n e; w hile a t th e end is a series o f th e m o st gorgeous even in g w rap s, w ith th a t fu ll, enveloping feeling w hich is so m uch new er th a n th e slip o f s ilv e r o r g o ld tissu e, cu t e x a c tly lik e a d a y tim e coat, th a t w e h a v e b een w earin g . T w o a r e illu strated o n p a g e seven ty-five .

T b e ta ilo red rrvode sh o w s ja e ie t s o f a ll len gth s, including th e red ingote, w h ich here o ften keep s a h int o f th e D irecto ire in the settin g o f its b u tto n s v e ry high . T h e new id ea o f a ta ilo red s ilk co a t a n d a so ftly full itokk i s fo u n d here. Som e o f the_ w aist-lines a p p r o a i i th e n o rm al w orked o u t in d ifiercnt w a y s fo r a ll ty p e s o f r fa e s ; indeed, th e w a is tlin e is [d ay ed w ith am usin glj’ throughout: one finds i t everyw h ere. T h e even in g d r w sketched on p a g e sev en ty-fiv e show s this, a s i t also illu strates th e in terestin g or pa ille ttes, in solid m asses o f color lik e a fab ric , ^ m e b eaded o r em broidered e\ ening frocks w ere o it ir e ly ve iled w ith a n o veid res.s com plete in i t s d f . o f chiffon, t ie d a t tb e ad e s . T h is g a v e a d ra n n in g ly fra g ile ap pearan ce to em brm dery, b rin ging a to u ch o f sum m er to the w in te r m ode. T h e en tire coUection w as fu ll o f color, and sim ply b u rstin g w ith new d etails, such a s a n a p fJiq u e o f flow ers and l ^ v e s in gazelle on ch iffon . D id y o u ever h ear tb e lik e o f th at?

T h e C o l l e c t i o n o f B e e r

RE M .A R K A B L Y p erfec t w orkm anship dis- • tinguishes th e house o t B e e r , a house

w hich keep s to th e good o ld trad ition of c u ttin g an d fitt in g a “ to ile ’ ’ fo r even th e a m p le st m odel. T h is is th e o n ly roUection in P a r is w hich beg in s w ith n e g lig to . including th is y e a r som e str ik in g p a ja m a su its a s well.I p a rticu la rly lik ed th e “ l it t le fro ck s,” w ith a n ew sense o f flare a t th e hem -line. Som e of them are so fa r a w a y from th a t rep roach of th e m ode, th e chem ise b e lted in th e m iddle, th a t th e y a re m ade u p o f num erou s long sectkm s, th e seam s fitted w ith m e t ic i^ u s care , w ith a n ex tra o rd in arily slendeiim ng effect- T h e d a rk green ^ k a l p ^ fro ck sketch ed on page seven ty-n in e illu strates th is.

.\ fe w co ats a re cu t w ith a fitted top , tncir sk irts set on a t th e h ip , o n a lin e ris in g tow ard th e fro n t. O ne o f th ese, trim m ed h e a v ily w ilh b lack co q featbeisi, g iv e s a sort o f peacock a llm u e tte w hich i s v e r y new . I t s frock , a ch arm in g th in g in b l a A an d w hite , i s a lso s k e t c h ^ o n page seven ty-m n e an d show s B eer’ s in terp retation o f th e ja b o t dress, the double ja b o t b ein g m ad e o f w hite chiffon. .Almost a n y one else w ould use th e selvage edge, b u t i t i s ty jfic a l o f B eer’ s fo r d e ta il th a t tb e fr i l ls a re h o n stitch e d h ere. T h e popular eolte de maille is used a s trim m ing, together w ith another n ew effect, w h ich looks tike m elon seeds o f colored enam el, set in close b locks o f color, an d each seed surrounded w ith go ld th read l ik e d o iso n n i w o rk . A series o f lo v d y w h ite gow ns, m a n y o f them a p p ro p riate fo r brides, closes the su ccessful ejection.

T h e C o l l e c t i o n o rP R E M E T

M.A D A M E C H A R L O T T E h as a right to th e n am e o f “ c re ato r” fo r she has

perfected a n d c h r i s t e ^ a ty p e o f dress w hich IS n ow a n essen tia l p a r t o f tb e sm art w ardro b e: th e ta ilo red gow n w hich is ca lled a “ G a r jo n n e ” fro ck b ecau se h er Erst m odel o f th is ty p e b o re th a t n am e. T h e first p a r t o f h er ig x 5 coUection is d is tin ctly m asculine, e sp ecia lly so a s w o rn b y h er "g e n t le m a n ly ” m aiuiequiits, l ik e d d x m a ir y o u n g m en , w ilh th eir short d d n in g h air b r t is i id v e r y b rusquely b ack beh in d t b ^ ears. H e r ta ille u rs are ■ 'F tream lin e" m odels, w ith n o v el d e ta ils of button ing ; th e red ingote persists, w orn with m en ’s w aistco ats an d v e r y doggy tie s and co llars; m ateria ls a re m annish, an d colors m a so ilin e beiges an d g ra ys .

.A v e i y im p o rta n t series o f sp o rts th in gs in d u d e s ch an n in g fro ck s o f pastel-colorrri w oolen fab rics lik e k a sh a , sh o rt-d eeved , their sk irts w ith d rc u la r flare , an d &U com pleted w ith scarfs, frequ en tly tied once o v e r in the b ack . T b e new “ G a rso n n e” fro ck s are illu strated on p a g e seven ty-eigh t; th e y show th e re v iv a l o f th e b d e t o id ea , w ilh a n eflfect o f th e sk irt b a n g raised in fro n t; th e co a t fro n ts a n d p la in b ad rs w hich a re a featu re o f th e season ; an d som e o f th e m a n y d e ta ils o i

T H E S P R I N G I N P A R I S

R A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

n o v el neckw ear in w hich th is c d le c tio n is p a rticu larly rich.

T h e ensem bles a rc a b it m ore elaborate. T h e ir frocks o ften h av e colorful decorations, appliques, em broideries, in th e fro n t only, w id e th eir co ats a re som etim es s tra igh t and som etim es flarin g, an d o ften h a v e feather co llars, tak e n from u n fam iliar fo rd s. M an y fa n cy m ateria ls an d w ea ves ore used w ith printed m ateria ls, th e la t te r rrorked on stra igh ter, sim pler lin es th a n elsewhere. M a n y bright touches o f em broidery enliven d a rk fabrics.

T h e er'cning go w n s frequ en tly show a w aistlin e w h id i cu rre s u p s lig h tly in th e front. T h e y a re rich in b ead in g an d em b io id e iy in flo w ery designs, a n d h a v e a n ew ddcoUeM w hich is sketched in th e L a s t M in u te pages. S k irts a re ex trem ely short an d u su a lly v ery fu ll, b u t rvith a so ft effect o f chiffon or fine l a ^ , A lo v e ly d r c ^ h as b rillian t roses em broidered on a w h ite ground, an d th e wbcUc th en v d le d w ith lo n g lin es o f q ia ik lin g bead frin ges. I t is ca lled “ L e Ja r d in sous la P lu ie ” an d lo ok s its n am e in e v e ry particu lar. B u t the P re m e t n am es are a lw a y s c lever and w ell chosen.

T h e C o l l e c t i o n

D R t c O L L0 F

IT I S s im p ly im possib le to com press tb e D rIcoU coUection in to a p aragrap h . It

does not “ c la ss ify ” a t ^ 1 . I t is a series of studies, a lik e enough p erh aps to show th at th e y axe fro m th e sam e hand, b u t u tterly u n lik e each o th er. M adem oise lle M adeleine seem s to le t h er s tu ffs ta lk — e v e ry wea\-e and e v e ry p atte rn h as som ething s p e d a l to say to her, a n d i t i s sa id in lin e an d cu rve , in lines as s tra igh t a s a p en cil h ere, o r a s w id e a.s th o se o f an eighteenth cen tu ry crinoline there. T h e re are enough id e as in th is cnllertion to furn ish a w ildern ess o f m odels. Y e t to those w ho h av e frUlowed h e r recent collections, the go w n s o f th is one a re logically developed.

L a s t F e b ru a ry she m a d e slim govras w ith a g re a t c ircu lar flounce set right u p one ride oi th em ; last A u g u st, th is developed in to the “ rob e k crfitc ,” o r cockscom b dress, w ith its ja b o t n o t unlike a co ck ’ s com b. T h is year, w e h av e th e la te s t v e r s o n o f tb e ja b o t frock, sketched in black, a n d w hite b y L u z a on page sevK ity -fo u r.

T h e n ta k e th e even in g gow n, sketched on th e sam e page, o f d isrinccly Span ish ins|Ura tio n . H e re go ld tissu e i s fo lded around the b o d y on “ sh a w l” lin es, w ith m e a t squares of figured lam £ s e t on , on a iow line, so Chat the f it l ly tra in o f th e “ S e v illia o a ” costum e is suggested b y tb e silb ou ette . M ad e lrin e has been w orkin g o u t th is d iagon al d ra p e ry for som e tim e, a n d i t cu lm in ates in th is gown.

T h e g ra y a fternoo n frock on th e sam e page iU iistrates th e " c o a t f r o n t " principle , ill w hich severa l derign ers a re in terested . I t i ' bordered w ith lu r , irresp ective o f th e season, b u t a lm ost e v e ry bouse in P a r is h as used fur a s i f th e e j e c t i o n w ere show n in A u g u st and n o t io F eb ru a ry .

A n o te th a t ru n s rig h t through th is collectio n is th e centering o f a tte n tio n b y a dozen d ifferen t m eans a t th e bust-lin e. Som etim e- a str ip o f lirigh t co lored satin i s laced thiougli tw o e y d e t holes a n d tied a t th is point; som etim es th ere is a b o w o f b rig h t ornament b m ; som etim es a sc a r f s ta r ts in th e center o f th e f r m t to lo se it s r i f o v e r on e shoulder.

T h e re is a new sUhouette U lu slrated by severa l m odels in d ifferen t m ateria ls. _This b eg in s w ith a so rt o f p rin cess Une, w liich is fitted to th e b o d y b y m ean s o f m a n y seams, broadening o v e r tb e h ip s w ith a n effect of pan niers. I s th is a fu tu re in d ication ? I t is im posrib le to s a y . T b e aU lectio n is so suggestiv e th a t i t s ta r ts u s th in k in g o n m a n y differe n t Unes.

O ne th in g on w h ich M adem oiselle M adele in e w ishes to in sist, a n d th a t is on the re v iv a l o f “ re a l” even in g dress, t lie stately, sum ptuous gow n o f lo n g an d tra ilin g U i^ , w h id t fo rm s such a co n tra st w ilh th e trim, short, b o y ish s ilb o u ette accepted fo r tb e day. Sh e s a y s she does n o t kn ow w here such gowns w ill b e w orn , b u t she th in k s th a t wom an f fam ed " in fin ite v a r ie t y " dem ands thcit reappearance.

T h e C o l l e c t i o n R E N £ £

O F

Re n e e U a n in d iv iduaU st; she is one o f derigners w ho co u ld go o n creatm g d

th ey shut h er up in a n iv o ry tow er, in sp iration com es from in sid e h er h ead , r 'e ' ihli-pg a rc s o ft a n d fin e an d fem inine; they reflect th e m ode w ith o u t b r in g ex a ctly o f iL B u t a R e n ie m od el ca n , o n th a t account, be w orn fo r y e a r s a n d y e a rs . _

H e r e j e c t io n is e a s y to sum m arize, l « every season i t show s one o r tw o rirongly m arked ch aracteristics. T h is yestf, th ey are th e use o f th e n ew so ft ta ffe ta , b oth fo r entirem o d d s an d fo r geom etric en crostation s waH iliq u es : an d tb e u se o f P *ird e“ don e b y a process w hich shadra tbe co w

(Continued on page i68)


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 167

hPowderSH O U L D R E F E A LN O T M A S K Y O U R B E A U T Y

What every woman seeks in complexion powder is the natural effect of her own soft, true skin beauty—■ revealed. Not cold, mask-like artificiality. The proper use of the right powder means a natural, not a powdery, result.

Imagine, then, a powder possessing in the highest degree all the eagerly sought-for, hoped-for qualities— fine as star-dust; of cloud-like softness; of amazing, even waterproof adherence; and having, in addition, the ' un- dream ed-of factor of constantly improving the skin texture.How the Almond Base in Princess Pat

Powder not only lends new beauty to the complexion but actually

gives a new softness to the texture of yottr skin.

Is your powdering a succession of lost opportunities? Powder, of all beauty requisites, is the most universally used, and by far the most often used, too. Your tiny pores, dutifully performing nature’s task, are constantly exuding perspiration, oils and acids over the surface of your skin.

How many times a day comes out your powder puff for a deft sweep of cheeks and neck, nose and forehead, to remove the shine left by these secretions, and swiftly to transform the hard, unlovely gleam to flower- like softness.

You have no time or opportunity on these occasions to use the solvent and mollifying creams that remove the impurities the pores cast forth. Powder is your one reliance. Make sure, then, that the powder you use is a beneficent one.

Princess Pat Powder, the only powder with an almond base, makes every one of these numerous occasions an opportunity for actually benefiting as well as beautifying your skin— in its prevention of skin dryness, which so often leads to coarse pores and other blemishes; in its soothing, softening, refining action and its whitening effect on the skin’s own texture— aiding, not obstructing, nature.

Princess Pat Powder does these things because it is a signal advance in the art of aiding beauty— a new powder, with new attributes.

Inspiration versus Tradition

For centuries the better powders have virtually all been made on a rice base.

It took a woman’s intuitive beauty sense to depart from the beaten path and use almond as a base for powder— almond, the one ingredient of all most beneficial to the skin and widely used by famous beauty specialists in creams and lotions, but never before applied to powder.

We want you to experience entirely at our expense the caress of this different powder; we want your skin, under its touch, to reveal to you how soft and velvety it can be— and how much more lovely it will grow from day to day as you continue its use.

"O L D E IVORY”th e n ew shade in pow d ei— another

P rin cess P a t trium ph In seeking to create a new shade in com plexion powder

that should blend so perfectly w ith the skin as to seem in truth a part o f it , O lde Ivory , a so ft pastel shade between “ flesh” and “ brunette,” was finally devised. In order to be certain o f its alm ost universal becom ingness on a ll com plexion types from bright blonde to d e e p brunette, we asked 5000 wom en to try it . T h e result was even beyond our fondest hopes— for the overwhelming m ajority acclaim ed Olde Ivory as th e long sought-for universal shade b y day or night. Am ong 5000 women are all ty p e so f skins— your type.

P R I N C E S S P A T , L td ., C hicago, U . S . A .

^ ^ ree— l/iis demonstration packetcontaining a liberal sam ple o f Princess Pat Powder, the on ly pow der with an almond base. Check you r favorite shade when you

MAIL THE COUPONP rin cess P a t, L t d ., 3701 S . W eils S t..

Dept. ^ 2 , Chicago*Please send me entirely F R E E a sample o f Princess Pat, The

Only Powder W ith an A lm ond B ase." I am checking here the shade I desire.

F LE SH — D ainty, youthful pink....................................

W H IT E — Pure, snow y white..................

O L D E IV O R Y — Natural, ivory flesh.

B R U N E T T E — W arm , gypsy, olive. * *

N am e..................

Street ................

C ity and State(Print N am e and Addreso Plainly)



F a sh io n , in h e r daytim e ho u rs, enthuses about aU-ooer p rin ts . The Jr o e k shown is m ade o f a tw o-color P en iitees p r in t in 40 -ineh-w idth , wtth deep border.

(polorful P ’rints

are g { p w in U o g u e)0R Spring and Summer’s most charming

costumes no materials can be more delightful than the new Penikees Prints.

The smartest of all-over patterns, the newest border effects— brilliant or demure in colorings— on richly lustrous backgrounds of finely ribbed silk and wool fabrics.

For those who prefer plain shades the same weaves are shown in all the fashionable tones.

J sk f o r Penikees Silks by name— at the silk counter o f you r favorite store.

N O T E S F R O M T H E S P R I N G O P E N I N G S I N P A R I S

(Concluded fro m page i6 6 )

f o r

p re ttily an d lea ves th e m ateria l a s supple a s i£ i t w ere prin ted . . ... j u

T h is process, I b elieve, w a s p erfected b y th e p a in ter D un an d , an d I saw i t first chez A gn es, th e m illiner. I to ld y o u a il abou t i t m th e M a rc h num ber. N o one, how ever, has gon e in qu ite so h e a v ily fo r i t a s R en ee. Som e o f h er fro ck s a re p a in ted w ith d eagn s used lik e em broidery; som etim es th e pain ted patte rn is a n in tegra l p a r t o f th e gow n s p lan , a lw a y s th e p atte rn is a d ap ted to U e m odel so th a t i t n ever h as a look o f being done “ b y th e y a rd .” A l l the pattern s a re w h a t is caUed cubist— odd arrangem ents o f cubes a n d angles, l ik e problem s in sobdgeo m etry . _ . . . .

R en ee uses a lo t o f chifion, w h id i she h an dles a s i f i t w ere cloth , fo r ensem bles o l coat an d fro ck . Som e o f h er chiffon evening frocks a re p a in ted w ith flow er designs, b u t another process is used, m ore lik e th e conven tion al p a in tin g in oils. Sh e show s a b la c k chiffon gow n w ith a long tra d o f w hite poppies u p th e side an d a rea l w lu te chiffon p o p p y poised on th e shoulder. C h an el, to o , h as u s M th ese ch iffon p o p p ie s ,_ w h i^ a re a s de licately creased a s th e field originals.

M a r t i a l e t A r m a n d

T ' H E b est collection th a t M ad am e V a lle t 1 h as shown in m a n y seasons, w as the

verd ic t o f th e press a fte r th e s p e a ^ evening show ing. T h e p rin cip a l featu res o f trom th e p o in t o f v iew o f n o v e lty , w ere th e new in terpretation o f th e redingote, cu t w ith a sligh t flare in stead o f on stra igh t lin es; UM lav ish use o f th e new p a ttern ed p la itm g w hicn is one o f the g re a t n ovelties o f th e season; the reintroduction o f cap es fo r a fternoo n en sem bles in stead o f co ats ; an d the sum m ery fro ck s w ith w id e extrem ely short ^ r t s and sashes tie d a t th e side o r in th e b a c k . A p r e tty n o te w ith the taiUeirrs o f m a im sh ty p e w a s th e b lou se in b righ t s ilk fab n cs, m ade lik e a sh o rt ta ilo red ja c k e t a n d w orn ivith a w hite co llar an d ja b o t. P r e t ty jab o rt w ith h igh co llars accom panied m a n y ot the coat fro ck s an d ta illeu rs. .

I n m ateria ls p a rticu lar atten tio n w a s paid to th e surahs, to th e ch evron p a tte ra s o fM ey er, a n d to th e prin ted chiffons. T h ere w as m ore em broidery th an there h as been, usuaU y v e r y w ell used. F in e em broidery on go ld or s ilver lea th er w a s a n ew note.

I n colors w e foun d th e new flax b lu e and m a n y shades o f co ra l te d , whUc th ere w as p le n ty o f b lack, lig h t b row n, an d com bination s o f b U c k an d w hite . A fe a tu re o f the evening fro ck s w a s th e add itio n o f a yolu im - nous i i r f , o f ch iffon o r tu lle , tied t ig h t round the neck b y one end, an d fasten ed w i ^ a m ^ e a r t iS d a l rose, th e long ends floaU ng d o tra the b ack . T h e re w ere a s m a n y cnseroDles as ever, th eir co ats frequ en tly trim m ed w itlj lu r.O n ly in ciden tal use wa.s m ade o f th e m od emdesigns, an d th e n ew po lka-do ts appeared in severa l models,

P h i l i p p e e t G a s t o n

En s e m b l e s in m a n y m ateria ls a n d iM n y colors are featured a t P h ilip p e e t G a ^

to n ’s. T b e co ats a re o ften th ree-qu arter, m n atu ra l k ash a, or in w oolen m a te iiu s m v a rio u s blues— ro y al, n a v y , flag , or htoti ae Fran ce. T h e re a re severa l o f th ese m odels in w hite satin , and one in w h ite lintm w ith a deep yo k e o f d a rk b lu e linen. A su it in coral k a sh a is am usin g on account o f its b lou se in w hite linen belted w ith a w hite su4d e belt. T h e fav o rite trim m ing is b raid , o f e v ^ m ateria l an d in all w id th s. B ra id m b la c k silk, in suede, in leath er, in toiU cirbe, an d even m lace, is used lik e a galon . Q uantities o f Venetian lace on th e a fternoo n dresses, m flounces, aprons, w aistco ats, in co llars a n d cu ffs, o r m e n a u sta tio n s. A new sleeve, long M d tm i from shoulder to elbow , w ith a t ig h t cu ll. M u ch red , cora l color, an d p in k , an d a great d eal o f b lue, n o ta b ly o f the new bleu h n or flax blue.

Y T E B

C A R L S C H O E N S I L K C O R P O R A T IO N

2 6 0 F o u r t h A v e n u e N e w Y o r k

T h i s is a collection o f sim ple, w earable clothes, w ith special em phasis o n sports

an d evening a ttire m ade b y a w om an who p la y s gam es an d dan ces herself, in a ll tJm sm art resorts. T h e re is a r o d n o v e lty to be found in it , th e re v iv a l o f th e dress draped to one side in a large bow , w hich is show n m

severa l m ateria ls, an d p a rticu larly in shot ta ffe ta . O therw ise th e m odels a re stra igh t fo r d aytim e, o r show som e flare to w ard the hem , either a t b o th sides o r in fro n t o n ly . A fe a tu re o f th e collection w as th e including of charm ing robes d e chambre w hich h ad a great success. A new d eta il is the t in y puffed sleeve, som etim es single, som etim es double, in sum m ery frocks. C hiffon is pain ted b y a n ew process in th e so-called “ m odern ” designs, w hich a re a n im pressive n o te o f the season. T h e se pa in ted fro ck s a re th e m ost successfu l I h av e seen.

G e o r g e t t e

Ma d a m e g e o r g e t t e a lw a ys showsa fe w o f h er n ew m odels hereelf. T h is

y e a r she appeared in a fro ck o f striped ta ffe ta an d b rig h t green crepe o f th e po p u lar tiareuse a n d sk irt ty p e . T h e stripes ran horizontally an d th e sk irt w as e x tre m d y short in com parison w ith th e long s tra igh t blouse. T h is made a m odel ty p ic a l o f m an y o f th e new features o t th e season. A n oth er th in g th a t m u st be noted in th is collection w a s th e use o f the n ew blues, p a rticu larly th e shade called “ ffa x ,” th e exact color o f th e flow er. P aste l colorings ra n a ll through th e collection. T h e m o st successfu l m odels in i t w ere th e sem isports things, som e o f w hich h a d capes instead o f coats. T h ere w as an effort to reintroduce th e cape fo r sp o rts an d even in g clothes. T h e re w a s a great d eal o f b lack , especially th in b lack , fo r afternoons. T h e tendency to w ard s “ m o d e m ” designs w as noticeable a lso . M a n y flow er-printed chiffons w ere show n, a new n o te being g iv en b y com bining tiiem w ith fine laces. O n th e stra igh t g littery even in g gow ns h u ge tu lle bow s tied a t one or b o th sides s tru ck a n o vel note.

B e r n a r d e t C i e

T h e strik in g featu re o f th e new collection a t B ern a rd ’s is th e w iden in g o f th e redm -

gote ty p e o f coat, w hich h as now a semi- fitted b o d y an d so ftly flaring sk irts, achieved b y in verted p la its o r b y a n ad ap tatio n o f tbe c ircu lar cu t. In stea d o f th e m anm sh chemisette an d p la in sk irt, th is ty p e i s n ow shown w ith a tailored frock , o f w hich th e novel featu re is a w aistco at effect in fron t, w ilh double-breasted row s o f b utton s. T h e \ t r y m annish ty p e o f red ingote is a lso continued, a s w e pred icted th a t i t w ould b e . Silken m ateria ls su ch a s surah an d th e new finely ribbed O ttom an o f B ian ch in i. w hich he calls “ v e lv a fio r ,” a re u sed in a n ovel w a y fo r suits, th e ir coats a s s tr ic t ly ta ilo red a s i f th ey were in m en ’s m ateria ls, an d th eir fro ck s or blouses v e ry fem inine. T h e co n trast is am usingly effective. M a n y d a ytim e m odels show the ca ijia ie itr coloring, or sev era l shades o f the sam e color. A p iq u an t n o velty , fo r th e v ery you th fu l, is th e ta ilo red frock in E n glish m ixtures, b utton ed stra igh t u p th e front, w ith another row o f b u tto n s u p the back, com pleted b y a v e ry short E to n jac k et , its ow n ro w o f bu tto n s m eeting th a t on the frock. T h e re are q u an tities o f lin gerie deta ils m neckw ear, a n d fr i l ly or p laited w hite jabots. C o lla rs an d cu ffs o f m assed fr ills o f V alen-den n ee lace on ensem ble su its rep lace fu r . Incolors, n a v y an d red , sm oke or d o ve gray, m a n y m au ves from h eliotrope to sp illed wine c d o r , red s b o th fo r d a y an d evening, an d a re v iv a l o f shepherd ’s p la id .

R e d T E R N

E x c e l l e n t m annish ta illeu rs an d ensem bles are th e featu re o f tliis collection, its

coats fo r th is season being a lm ost idenUcaJ w ith m en ’s co u n try o r tra v e l topcoats. Som e o f th ese in brow n a n d g ra y tw eed are en tire ly lin ed w ith fu r an d lo o k m o st com fo rtab le . A m odel w hich caused comment w a s a co a t o f coppery w aterproo f m a te n d , ca lled “ rad io co ,” lined w ith ko lin sky . T h is seem ed odd in a sum m er collection, Out there w ere m a n y d a y s last J d y aiM A ugust when a fur-lined coat w ould h av e been m ost acceptab le in trave lin g . L o v e ly printed chiffons w ere show n fo r a fternoon, pattem eu w ith roses an d other flow ers, th e b ack s m th e p a ttern ed m ateria l an d th e fro n ts o f plain , w ith th e flow ers cu t o u t an d app liqued in long lin es or squares, in a n effective w a y . A series o f handsom e even in g gow ns, ™ a o y th em stiU trim m ed w ith ostrich , com pletea th e collection. M aryorse H oward.


( o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 169

OMIEN

Y O U can now cleanse your skin at home just as they do in the beauty shops.

Your beauty depends upon skin cleanliness — it should be clean and fresh as a June morning. A nd you can now give your skin such cleanliness without stepping outside your ow n door.

W e refer, o f course, to the new Lettuce Cream — new in the sense that it has just become available to the general public throughdrugand department stores— which cream, by the w a y , has been the basis oi over five hundred million beauty treatments in the more than 7 ,0 0 0 M arinello beauty shops and ten beauty schools.

T h e M arinello schools, the medical profession, beauty specialists and professional beauties are all agreed rha: the one fundamental o f beauty is a clean healthy skin. T h ere are particles o f dirt chat imbed themselves so deeply in the skin’ s pores that soap and water do not dislodge them ; dirt that literallysmothers the proper functioning and

E A S T E R N B E A U T Y S A L O N 3 6 6 F ifth A v e ., N e w Y o r k C ity

causes an unhealthy, stippled skin. T h e M arinello experts have long since recog. nized the fact that there is no such thing as a cure-all, and each M arinello product is designed to do just one thing, but to do that thing w ell. T h is wonderful Lettuce Cleansing Cream is no exception, it is designed to cleanse— not to stimulate, nourish, whiten or tint, just to cleanse. A nd it gets that result. I t is made of oils, whose sole purpose is to penetrate the pores and dissolve the hidden dirt, draw out the hidden impurities and give the skin a chance to breathe. T h ere is no powder suspended in Lettuce Cleansmg Cream to leave an artificial whiteness, and the oil^ w ill not clog the pores; it is simply and purely a skin cleanser, nothing else.

j K A R l N E L L O

^ETTU CE Q l E A N S I Q f L E A M

NG

M A R IN E L L O C O .N e w Y o rk C hicago

“ But how about results?” you m ay ask. “ C an 1 apply this Lettuce Cleansing Cream w ith the same results as the beauty specialists?” You surely can, but here is a w a y to prove it. Just send for the 3 -day free trial tube and apply it according to instructions. It is gently massaged into the pores o f the skin and removed with a dry white cloth. Y o u r skin is not only cleansed, but its natural softness is restored. It takes but a moment— it’ s on and o ff— and the result w ill be beyond your greatest expectations. N o complicated application; no elaborate ritual; it b scientifically prepared b y M arinello. and the 2 5 ,0 0 0 beauty experts w ho use it regularly are ample proof o f its purity and efficiency. Everyone, whether you are a user ot cosmetics or not, needs at least a cleansing cream, and here is one whose efficacy has been proven millions of times. A t your druggist’ s, department store or beauty shop— in tubes, 50 c ; in jars, 6 0 c and 5 2 . 0 0 .

W E S T E R N B E A U T Y S A L O N 80 8 T o w e r C o u rt, C hicago


170

U nderw ear Charm T^ever B efore K now n

Smart style .“ soft-to-touch” materials... loveliness.. .new comfort.. .new beauty...has won thousands of women to Futurist... Woman’s Modern Underwear. Sheerdimities,nainsooks,voiles...silk-cottonor lustrouspure silk...white,flesh,orchid orhoney- dew. Buttonless...with built-up or bodice top... open or bloomer knee. Many distinctive styles... for every taste and every purse.Decidedly feminine...but cleverly fashioned by skilled designers to fit the figure...an aid to a slender silhouette.Futurist brings to women an underwear beauty and practical utility unknown before. You will want Futurist.. .see it in the knit underwear departmentsofleadingstores,ever jTwhere.

THE FUTURIST COM PANY N e w Y o r k j i o W e s t E r ie S t r e e t , C h ic a g o S a n F ra n c isco

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UNDERW EAR

B A R O N

V I E W SD E M E Y E R

T H E M O D E

H A R P E R ' S B A Z A R / o r

(C a tlin u ed f r m page 10 3 )

o f gown, pro fu se ly em broidered w ith futuristic flow ers, b irds, an d ch im eras in b rillia n t colorin g s T hose em broideries a re com posed of tu b es beads, rhinestones, an d m etal threads, an d a re l>-pic»l o f th e M oly n eu x co llcttion

F o r another k in d o f U a b o ia te to ilette the new rainbow m ateria ls h a v e been selected. T h e y a re q u ite a iea tu te o f th e i g j j spring season. O ne o f those gow ns is shatled from rose to a deep laven d er an d spark les w ith innum erable m eta llic flow ers, w hile another b rillian t gow n o f green becom es grad u ally cornflow er b lu e b elow th e knees. I t is worketl in e v e ty k in d o f g litte rin g b ead . A co a t, to form a harm onious ensem ble w ith th is gown, is derigned in shailed green an d go ld m etal tissu e, l .o n g coral fr in ges ate m ade ure o f on m a n y elaborate dresses and m ost p a rticu larly on a golden cape w hich, besides these fringes, b o asts o f a derign o f Chinese pagodas w orked in co ra l a s a b o r ^ . A h e a v y an d rich-looking r ilv e r even in g co a t is b ea u tifu lly decorated w ith steel em broideries an d b an d s o f chinch illa a t neck and hem.

T h e collection o f p a jam as, fo r w hich the house o f M olyn eu x is fam ous, is again m ost in terestin g. O ne o f these garm en ts, a com - b in atim i o f cornflow er an d p e ac o t^ b lu e satin , is w orn u n d a a b lack cfainon coat . embriMd. ered w ith ro ses an d b o rd n e d b y lo n g swinging fringes in co n trastin g blues. .Another set o f p a jam a s is o f b lack an d jade-green satin and h as gorgeous flo ral designs produced b y colored tu b es an d beads on the w aist p a rt, which is o f b lack sa tin . T h e se p a ja m a s a re a s handsom e a s a dinner gow n.

P o i r e t t h e . \ b t i s t

'T 'H R O U G I I s ilver gates, u p a grand L rase , 1 w as usliC T ^ in to a large show

sta ircase, 1 w as usn crea in to a large show room

w ith rose an d r ilv e r w a lls . .An expan se o f v iv id green carpet h ad to b e crossed b d o r e I reached th e a rm ch air o f v e lv e t, p rin ted w ith flow ers o f e v e p ’ hue. H e re I w as requested to b e seated . A\ e w ere in P o ire t 's n ew p a la tia l b uild in g. F ro m an ad join in g room stream ed lum in ous green ligh ts, em an atin g from a green c ^ in g . I h ad th e bew ildering im presrion of b r in g seated in a n aq u ariu m a m o ^ strange

(not n ecessarily a ll o f them foreign bi^-ens, fo r one lo n e D u cb ess s a t a m on g th em ). .An ex o tic note o f exuberan ce h a d been stru ck , w e fe lt the P o ire t genius a b o u t u s. T h e cu rta in w ould b e draw n— w e w ould b e thrilled .

H o w ever, the collection h av in g passed, ] w a s surprised to realize th a t P o ire t had th is y e a r c b o ^ to str ik e th e p re v a iling, fash ionable note— tb e jx e v a ilin g b eige kash a, tbe prevailin g ^ x u t s su its an d la robe chem ise, as w ell a s th e b lack satin a fternoon gow n. A ll o f these w ere q u ite unlike the P o ire t m odels o f m y dream s, the ones I h a v e unbotm detl adm iration fo r. T h e P o ire t gen iu s, how ever, could n o t b e suppressed an d , a t tiroes, it flashed m ost b r illia n d y . B u t w h y , oh w h y , suppress so m uch?

U nbleached k a sh a is used v e r y c leverly . G o ld lea th er derigns on beige, em broideries o f P ersian m etal flowers, go ld en chains, and lo v e ly ban d s o f breiist feathers from liuck s an d pigeons are o n ly a fe w of the new touches in th is i^rring ccflleclioD.

T h e 10 2 5 P o ire t lin e is b o th n arrow an d fu ll, sk ir ts a re r iig h tly l o o g a th an elsew here, an d colorings rem ain in d iv id u a l. T h is is to be expected o f an a rtis t lik e P o iret. S leeves are

Suite a featu re. T h e y are v e r y tigh t from toulder to elbow , b u t flo at a w a y in handker

ch ief d raperies o f crepe from elb o w d ow n to th e w rist.

In terestin g is a new series o f m odels in u r e d b y th e fash ions o f i8 7 o -r8 S o . T h e se gow ns h av e rea l b u stles w hich a re produced b y bunched ta fleta o f va ried Scotch looking pattern s, a s w ell a s in the case o f “ B o v a r y ,” b y b lack em broidered in go ld dow n the fron t o f tbe gow n.

Som e robes d e s ly ie fo r je u a e s j i llc r b e lo i^ to as e a r ly a period a s 18 4 0 . O ne is show n in shades o f b lu e and laven d er, w hite another o f pink ta fle ta has p a le b lu e v e lv e t ribbons in the w a y o f trim m ing. B o th are charm ing rep licas o f the fash ions o f the p eriod .

C a l l o t ’ s N e w C h a r a c t e r

C.A LL O T ’S exten sive collection th is y e a r h as acqu ired a n added in terest. O ne

m a y alm ost s a y C a llo t is strik in g a more iiu m an note w hich, being in m a n y cases less s ta le ly , is m ore accessible to th ose h av in g lo consider th e m ore im c t ic a l s d e o f life . T h e collection does i » l s ta r t a s i t does in o th er houses w ith q x rrts su its to cu lm in ate in a bridal cortege. O n tb e co n trary , w e m a y b e show n a lo v e ly b rid e first, a n a fternoon gown next, an d a ba ll gow n, a sports su it, an d a pair o f p a jam as, passin g a ll o f them in rapid succession.

W atchin g a o fllection a l C a llo t’ s i s m ore d ivertin g th an elsew here, m ore v-aried, m ore kaleidoscopic. T h e show in g o f l it t le printed

gow ns w ith fly ing pan els, o f kn itted sp o rb clothes com bined w ith so ft leath er coats boastin g o f a flowered lin ing, fo r instance, are new departures in th is housc. H ow ever, even in su ch garm en ts, th e C a llo t atm osphere and cu t is u n m istakable. .A v e ry ligh t an d flufly k in d o f fringe is new , esp ecia lly w hen used in in n um erable ro w s in brow n an<l beige, forming a cape

M o st o f the rath er sum m ery looking gowns a rc com bineil w ith capclikc w rap s or w ith tran sp arent co ats o f net o r ch iflon rcem broidered in som e in stan ces w ith shim m ering ptiil- le ttes o r w ith g re a t flow ers in n atu ra l ccflof. in gs P a ille ttes h av e a lw a y s been a great fe a tu re o f the C a llo t even in g gowns, lo v e ly colorings shim m ering on a foundation o f net com bined w ith e v e ry k in d o f bead and m a n y jew e ls . N o one is ab le to com pete with C a llo t in th is so rt o f gow n not in fu ll-s k ir td b all gow ns, b e t h ^ ’ snow -w hite net w ith cluste rs o f b ig .Am erican b ea u ty roses on the skirt o r w ith vo lum in ou s n et flounces in a comb in ation o f oran ge, m auve, b lu e, green, and y ellow .

A h arm o n y o f fly ing tu lle scarfs o f rose, m a u v e, an d laven d er h as v iv id ly rem ained in m y rr>ind a s a creation w hich h a s to b e seen t o b e b d ie v e d . T h e apparen t absence o f a bodice is a g re a t featu re o f the even in g gowns, a net foun dation on a m ore su b stan tia l flesh foun dation , a few bcjew efed .straps an d a flower co llaborate w ith a length o f m ateria l to produce a w onilerful m ode.

T y p ic a l colorings tliis sea-soii a rc lavenders b ro u gh t in to h arm ony w ith a ll sh ad es o f rose, a lso bois d e rose, peach ton es an d p in k s. E ve- n ing w rap s are eith e r m ade o f b r o o d e d m rtal textu res bordered b y satin h an ds with H iorm ously upstan din g co llars o r a re simply large .squares o f brocaile in go ld or in a color barm unizing w ith each gow n, bordered by w ide frin ges such a s a re u s ^ on Spanish sh aw ls . T h e y en ve lo p the gow n en tirely .

T h e Cfadruit ctfllection th is q w in g is qidle excellen t a n d v e r y su ccessfu lly planned. Jifa ila m e W orm ser seem s to w av e a fa iry srami w hich h as the h ap p y fa cu lty o f th inning and elongating a ll she touches. Sh e m akes her c lien ts seem ta ll, slender. Sh e g iv es them h eigh t. H er cloth es a re a ll w earable an d no fre a k costum es a re included in th e collectior. w hich co n ta in s n o vel ideas a n d new feature- 'These are e q ie c ia lly noticeable in su its a n ' c o a t blouses o f cr¥pe d e C h in e. T h e y look l ik e long w aistcoats b utton ed a ll dow n thi' fro n t. T h e y are w orn under coats. Such coats, a s w ell a s n early a ll d a y dresses, have lo w V neck-lines, the A’ in som e ra.ses reachin<: dow n to th e w aist. T h e y hav*e floating chiffO'i r e v c is or a re edged w ith narrow sca rfc tie i v e ry lo w in fron t, la ig e fla t c ra v a ts . For instance, a brow n one o n b eige k a sh a is tie<l a t the extrem e poin t o f the V .

C h arm in g i s a scries o f lit t le homespun coatees in p a le b lue, v io le t, o r icossais [said t o b e w orn w ith p la in o r p la ited b lack skirt- com bined w ith a crtp e sc a r f o r a b la c k velvet c ra v a t. T h e y are e x c c sa v e ly chic.

A polonaise, a garm e n t w h ich w as fasbioii able som e fifty y e a rs ago, is re v ive d in gra> k a sh a an d looks v e r y new an d sm art.

C h e r u i t ’ s C l e v e r C u t t i k c .

^ H I F F O N an d la r e go w n s fo r d a y a n d evr k—' n in g w ear a re v e t y n um erous. T h e y an- a d m irab ly cu t an d flo at in characterLstii C h fru it s ty le . Som e h av e panels placed one a b o ve th e o th er a ll around th e w aist, whik others h a v e gathered s id e pan els, one o n each side, one on tb e w aist-lin e, tb e o th er much lower.

S c a rfs a re a g a in a fe a tu re o f th e Cbfiruit collection . O ne o f so ft gold h as cu b ist triangle ' pa in ted on th e textile, a D u n an d creation. T h is sam e a rtis t ha.s decorated b y h an d some satin and cr$pe gow ns, an d though futuristic in atm osphere, th ey look q u ite sim ple an d arcw earable . G o ld an d r iiv e r tin sel m aterials arc m uch fa v o red fo r even in g gow ns, a n d so i ' sa tin . L o v e ly is a rath er fu ll w h ile satin dress w hich h as tiers o f b eige tu lle flounces and a b eige n et a o ir f to m atch . A D irecto ire redin- go te is m ad e o f a m etal tex tile w hich looks like p latin u m , an d a b la c k satin co a t cape w ith a b e lt h as the v e ry h igh co llar an d Ib c entire fro n t o f tb e g arm en t m ad e o f ru b y velvet T h e eSecc is m ost p icturesque.

T h e L a n v i n C h a r m

M .A D .A M E L .A N V IX ha.s fo r th is ^ i n * season o f i g j j [woduced a new collection

m ore in d iv id u a lly L a n v in th an a n y she h»‘ g iv en u s o f late.

F o r d a y w ear she a lm ost exc lu sive ly shows k ash a- f t is the predom inant note. Polka- d o ts in every size an d color a re the n ext mo.«t n oticeable feature. B e th ey in b lack on white o r w M te on b lack , in go ld , red . green , or any o th er shade, th ese g a y d o ts are to b e found or

(Coneluded on page 1 7 2 )


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 1 7 1

-r-rr^-vL

The M ystery \k

1;:-

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jri

P A R F U MTo heighten the elusive charm of woman, twenty-eight different flowers give their subtle fragrance to the creation of Mystikum Europe’s Premier Perfume. At the Better Stores

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172The figure at ihe lefus idealized by a DeBevoise Cor-sette,* which supports d moulds thefigureroosteffec-tively. The right figure owes its lin es t o a D eB evo ise Smarrway Bandeau (esura lo n g ) and a D eB evoiseG ird le , w h ic h c o n tro ls h ip s . lowerffiighs a n d d iap h rag m .

< ] Y ^ i : h c vogue for filmy chiffons and sheer laces. . . ciingitig silks andgayplaidsandsttipes...niake5noeffort to conceal one's proportions. Insure the successofyqur

| / ~ \ SpringwardtobewiihDeBevoise( \ y . foundation garments

J ’ t - -

^)rinq spirit in clothm .D g B g v o isg

silhouette o f youth

Up a n d d o w n th e A v en u e , a ll a lo n g th e R u e d e la Paix, o n e sees s len d er m o d e ls that g en tly caress th e f ig u r e . . .

e o w n s a n d en sem b le costu m es fitt in g m o t e snu gly a b ou t rtie h i p s . . . s i m p l e b o d ice s a n d elabora te skirts, shorter than ever. T o -wear th e n ew g o w n s w ith fe tch in g eftect, to b r in g o u t a ll their grace and lissom en ess, th e s ilh ouette m ust b e s le n d e r . . . m ust b e straight.

T arts T resen tationsT h ere is m o v e m e n t a n d r ip p le a n d life in th e latest im p o r tations . . . in th e circular s w in g o f a L anvin sk ir t . . . in th e gracefu l flare b e lo w th e k n ees in itia ted b y C h e r u it . . . in th e u n e v e n h e m o r th e lo v e ly rise a n d d r o o p o f a C h an el tun ic. B u t th ese variations are in tro d u ce d s o cleverly that th e s ilh o u ette still rem ains straight. In d e e d ,th e se g o w n s lo s e th e ir effect utterly w h e n th e figu re departs f r o m f lo w in g , g racefu l lines.

F o r years D e B e v o is e d esign ers h ave b e e n w o r k in g in c o op e ra tio n w ith le a d in g fa sh ion authorities h ere a n d abroad sm d y in g every ty p e o f figu re a n d h o w it m a y b est b e adapted t o each n ew v ag a ry o f fa sh ion . T h e y h a v e o r ig in a ted a m o d is h series o f fo u n d a tio n garm ents in c lu d in g brassieres, bandeaux, corsettes ,* g ird les a n d re d u c in g garm ents o f S e c r e ^ .

N o m atter w h a t y o u r requ irem en ts , th ere is a D e B e v o is e fo u n d a tio n g a rm en t t o id ea lize y o u t figu re in to lin es that g iv e p o is e a n d drap e a n d en ch a n tin g e f f e a . . . g en tly and w ith o u t constra in t. E ach g a rm en t is id en tified b y a tiny D e B e v o is e la b e l that m ean s as m u ch as a P ans m ark m a g o w n o r hat. O b ta in a b le at th e b est sh o p s a n d specialtystores. In ex p en siv e , t o o . SReglsieted Trade M uks

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alm o st e v e ry garm en t w oven , prin ted , or em broidered. , . . .

W e a rc show n k a sh a jum pers, k a sh a coats, in fa c t k a sh a garm ents, a d in finitum , figured, qu ilted , p laited , striped o r em broidered, an d in m a n y cases com bined w ith surah prin ted w ith polka-dots. K a sh a m ateria ls figu re m sliades o f red , in absin th e green, p in k , p a le b lu e, o r in lo ve ly s ilv e r g ra ys , n o t m entioning the ubiqu itous beige. u

N ew ideas fo r trim m m g p la in u ttle kasha fro ck s a rc in cru sted b an d s s q u a r ^ of E n glish m en ’s m aterials— or th e u se o f h ^ d - painted cu b ist p a tte rn s o f th e s W e w hicn la te ly h as becom e associated w ith th e n am e ot D u n an d th e a rtis t. O ve r steel-gray_kasha, a long sleeveless co a t o f singe perle is v e p t sm art. T h is fu r tre ated b y M ad a m e L an vm becom es a g re a t n o velty .

T h e w aist-lin e in th is h ou se tem am s v c ^ low , except, o f cou rse, in th e case o f fu ll- sk irted robes d e style. N arro w tab s, a lm ost fringe-like, sta rtin g from th e low w aist-lm e, are a featu re ot th is season’s sk irts . T h e re are lo n g ta b s besides, h an gin g fro m th e shoulders, w hich com plete th e w ell-estab hshed L an vin silh ouette . A n o th er ty p e o f gow n, v e r y ty p ica l o t the hou se, is a lo n g sort o f w aistless sl;p, edged below b y a v e r y fu ll flounce produced by a series o f flarin g g o d ets. I n som e u a ta n ce s th is k in d o f gow n h as a looped-up eB ect on each side, w hich m ak es i t a p p e a r lo n ger b oth fro n t an d b ack .

T h e collection o f even in g gow ns, v ery s tra igh t or v e r y fu ll, is q u ite lo v e ly . T h e re is a g re a t assortm ent o f each kin d . Straigh t-lm c dresses a te m ad e o f sa tin . a 6 p e , o r chiBon, m o stly decorated b y a w ea lth o f em broidery in sp ark lin g b ea d s, tu b es, a n d rhm estones. T h e y h av e th e u n m istakab le a ir w h ich em an ates fro m th e h ou se o t L a n v in , d istin ct in s ty le fro m th e w o rk o f a n y o th er designer. T h e p ro fu se use o f m irrors, m o lh e r^ f-p e a r l, a n d in severa l in stan ces p a in ted handw ork, is in d iv id u a l. , , , , •

T h e lo velin ess o f th e fam o u s robes d e style is Stitt un surpassable , th erefo re th e a im less d i^ cusMOns on th e su b ject o f “ A re such gow ns in fash ion o r n o t? ” a re q u ite fu t ile . A s long a s M ad a m e L a n v in w ill produce t h ^ fo r a certa in ty p e o f y o u n g w om an, h er chenUte spociale w il l continue to o rder one or tw o o f such gow ns each season. .

O rgandies in b la c k an d w b t e , or m a yb e in p in k o r green, som etim es o v e r a s ilv e r foun dation, show a w ea lth o f b ea u tifu l handw ork, sen tim en tal in atm osphere a n d exq uisite m fin ito B u n ch es o f fie ld flow ers, b ig bow s o f s ilk , an d m irrored designs, a s w e ll a s cut-out d rc u la r p a tte rn s in shaded v e lv e ts app lied on h e a v y w hite s ilk , a re rep eated on som e v e p ' b ea u tifu l gow ns. A sp ec ia lly fu ll p in k satin m odel h as a n im m ense b la c k v e lv e t sash on the sk irt an d som e w h ite muslra,_ em broidered w ith m in o rs, on th e b od ice . I t is a dream o f p o etry . M o re im portant-looking is a yellow fu ll-sk irted gow n decorated_ b y innum erable ^ v e r flounces a n d w hite satin bows.

C l e v e r S u z a n n e T a l b o t

T h o u g h Suzanne T a lb o t is kn ow n a s a m od iste the w o rld o v er, i t is o n ly recen tly she

sta rte d h er m aison de couUtre. A t N u m b er F ourteen o f th e ru e R o y a le M ad am e contm ues to preside a t th e designing o f h a ts , w h ile a t N u m b er T e n she b o ld ly cu ts in to roo st w ondrous fab rics . ,

H and-loom ed m ateria ls , u n iq u e textiles sp ec ia lly w oven to b e t o rder, a re her fa v o r ite m ateria ls. H er m odels a te m ostly v e ry n arrow , v e ry short, an d v e r y c lo sd yw rap p ed abou t the figure. T h is ^ s o n s in sp iration h as been E g y p t . T h e P a g n e , a so rt o f E g y p tia n lo in-cloth, fo lded a b o u t the hips o ver a narrow plaited sk irt, i s interpreted in a dozen d ifferent version s. T h is fashion, how ever, is n o m ore en tirely new , fo r i t s e e r ^ to h av e been v e ry sty lish in th e y e a r 2000 B .C .

M ad am e T a lb o t is an extrem ely in terestin g designer, an d though she show s a n excellent coUection o f sports clothes, a s w e ll a s o f beautifu lly prin ted m uslin gow ns m w ondertul shades an d harm onies, i t is in h e r ow n special E a ste rn sty le , in dresses o f sh im m en n g and gleam ing fab rics, she is p a rticu la r ly successfu l. I n sp ite o f o th er houses d erivin g insp iration from sim ilar sources— P e rs ia , C h in a , an d , th is season, E g y p t— the T a lb o t m odels seem to stan d alone. T h e re b a b o u t them a q u ality o l p re d o u s lacquers au d p a rticu la r ly o f snim - m ering meW ls, a lm ost d ram atic . A n evening coat o f Ja p a n e se red h as a po in ted o v er-c a j» , th e po in t a t th e b a c k a lm o st tra ilin g on the ground. T h is cape is m ad e o f a pattern ed gold m ateria l a n d h as a hood w hich, w hen w orn pu lled o v e r th e h ead , fram es th e fa ce an d envelops th e w ea rer in th e fo lds o f a m ysterious atm osphere.

I n t e r e s t i n g B o u l a n g e r

LO U IS E B O U L A N G E R ’S collection gcn- eratty contains n o v e lty . S h e succeeds

in g iv in g th e prevailin g fash ions a new tw ist, •a prom ise o f to-m orrow ’s n ew note. Sh e does

n o t fa v o r s tra igh t lines, in fa c t she detests la robe chem ise. E sp e c ia lly in the h p d lin g of m ateria l, and in the a r t ot drapin g in particula r , she b a g re a t m aster. . . . .

T h e B o u lan ger w arst-lm e is p laced low dow n in s o m e in s ta n c e s ,v e r y lo w . H e r skirts are room y, a lm ost fu ll. H er num erous mousseline d e soie gowns, fo r instance, produce an effect o f innum erable sashes, bunched or ^ a in , in e g u la c in len gth , a lm ost tra ilin g m th e back, though in fro n t th e sk irts rem ain short. T h e coOection con tain s a g re a t n um ber o f such chiffon gow ns, b o th in p la in an d figured textile s m a n y o f them in shades o f b lue, which seem s to b e M ad a m e B o u lan ger’s favorite color th is season. Sevres b lu e, turquoise, cornflow er, an d an alm ost ro y a l b lu e are pn m e favo rities . M ad a m e G uilm et, th e d irectrice, to ld m e th ere w a s a n un precedented run on b lu e N o t a y a rd o f a v e ry special to n e w as le ft in th e house, nor to b e found a t a n y o f the g re a t s ilk dealers.

B u tte r fly w ings a re produced b y a gracefu l sk irt d ra p e ry o f m ousseline d e soie in green, b lue, an d co ra l; w h ile other successfu l ch iffon color com binations m ad e m to ravish in g gow ns are in b rig h t b lu e w ith in blue w ith sea-green, an d in a m ateria l of rainbow shades— m auve, rose, orange, and yellow — w hich pro ves th a t b rillian t colorings w ell com bined ca n produce d istinguished harm onies.

A grande ioilelie o f s ilv e r Ossue h as a train , produced b y th e sash ends o f a n im m ense bow , ta k in g u p th e en tire b a c k from tiie shoulders dow n to th e kn ees. T h o u gh i t m a y sound pecu lia r, th is gow n h as g re a t distinction .

“ M u sso lin i” is the n am e g iv en to a Faso-st sp o rts costum e w orn w ith a long-sleeved black sh irt. T h e co at, w aist-coat, an d sk irt are m ade in a rose an d b eige hom espun.

C It A N T A L H a s S u c c e s s

CH A N T .A L , though a new n am e dans la coiUure, i s one w e sh a ll hear m ore o f m

th e fu tu re . M adem oiselle C h an ta ! carries out h er m odels w ith ra re perfection . H er ideas are o r l ^ a l , sober, an d a lw a y s in go od taste. Sp o rts cloth es carried o u t in chiffon are a new departure. S h e show s w aistco ats, sw eaters, or coatees m a d e o f tran sp aren t textiles, even though sk irts an d to p coats are o f k a sh a or hom espun. D y e d lace-like Sh etlan d woohes m i l e in to sw eaters a re a n o v e lty com bined w ith E n g lish m en ’s m ateria ls . Q uite charm in g to o a re b an d s o f gaze lle or o f b ird ’s breast feathers on w oolen suits.

T h e C h an tal m ousseline de soie gow ns are tre ated in a v e ry n ovel w a y . T h e y ate a featu re o f the collection . A com bination ot laven d er w ith th e now ra p id ly becom ing fam o u s “ C h an ta l p in k ” i s a ty p ic a l colonng o f th is n ew house. “ Green bam boo is a gow n o f w h ite crepe w ith b an d s o f green, i t h as fresh b am b oo shoots em broidered on tbe fu ll b e ll s leeves. A n even in g gow n o f green n e t o v e r s ilver becom es shaded, ju s t b y the n um ber o f i t s tu lle lay e rs . sk irt is fullan d v e r y va p o ro u s. S n a p is g iv en to th is very yo u th fu l dan ce fro ck b y a b an d o f coral net p laced on th e bodice, l l i e C h an ta l collection m igh t b e term ed a collection o f transparencies, fo r th is designer’ s creatio n s h a v e an a ir oi lightness produced b y a g re a t n um ber ol tran sp aren t textiles. I t is a n o vel note, which ce rta in ly should sp ell success.

Y v o n n e D a v i d s o n

Y v o n n e D A V ID S O N h as new prem ises. I t is o n ly qu ite recen tly th a t she m oved into

th ese m ore spacious quartens, a n d h er opening w a s q u ite b rillia n tly a tten ded . A s a designer 0! dresses th e po p u lar w ife o f J o D a v id so n is as ta len ted a s h er h usb an d is fo r scu lptu re. The in au gu ratio n o f h e r n ew h ou se on a mucn larg er sca le is ev id en ce o f h e r success.

K a sh a , here a s elsew here, is featureo. T h e re i s a stron g lean in g tow ard s ilv e r gray, q u ite a re lie f a fte r to o m uch beige. O ne gray k a sh a co a t in p a rticu la r h as in cru sted motits o f g ra y ch iffon in terru p tin g th e plainness. T h is is q u ite a n ew fe atu re . Rose-colorea w ool m ateria ls a rc u sed a s w ell a s greemsb ones. T h e la t te r coloring i s m a d e in to an un usual sp o rts ensem ble. T h e sta rt o f this su it i s w orn o v e r b reech es c u t o il in one m tn gaiters, a s w ell a s w ith a ju m p e r buttoned lugnu p a t th e th ro at. ,

T h e g rea te st successes o f t lu s charmmg collection, how ever, a re tw o b la c k ensem bles. O ne o f th ese is catted C h u Chm C h ow ,” a com bination o f a lo n g co at, blouse, an d sk irt, in b lack , w hite , an d rose crC-pe rom ain ; tru ly D a v id so n in cu t an d atm o^ ph ete ; w hile th e second m odel con sists o ^ long b lack jum per-like garm en t open oowa th e side an d w orn o v e r a w h ite crepe go w ^ w hich h as a d esign o f b rillia n t green leaves prin ted a ll o v e r it- T h is gow n ra n b e i w n w ith o u t th e b la c k overdress or th e oveidtes o v e r a n y other slip . A b ro w n and double gow n is sim ply w rap p ed about figure, held togeth er a t one side b y brow n anu b eige ties-

1


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 173

Dorothy Burgess, the flapper in “ Dancing Mothers,” introduces the fashionable “ all 'whit ’ coat for spring. Designed hy Bergdorf-Goodman.

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t h e s e c r e t P R I S O N E RB y M A R I E B E Y N O N R A Y

A L L evening th e p icture o f E ileen , f \ defiant, k e p t p a sa n g across M o n ip s

2 JC m en tal v ision lik e a g h o stly slide in a m agic lan tern — E ile e n w ith h er h ead throw n b ack , h er lid s drooping, h er ey e s b razen and resentful in th eir shaded corners. H o w could a child h a v e a n expression lik e th a t, .

B etw e en M o n ica and h er husband, din ing fo r th e first tim e in h er n ew hom e, w aited upon th is even in g o f her a r r iv a l b y obsequious serv a n ts anxious to p lease , cam e, o v e r and o v e r again , th is d istu rb in g v is io n ot h isdaughter— E ile en . ............................... ....

“ D a m n h er insolence! A lan h a d cn ed , as th e g ir l h ad refused M o n ica ’s outstretched hand and flu n g de fian tly from th e ro o m ; and now h e h a d ju s t fin ished sayin g , a s th e silent b u tle r poured th eir w ine, “ a w blam e lor a ll th a t is w ron g w ith E ile e n .’’

A l l that is wrong w ith E iU t n l A cro ss the shaded lig h ts an d perfum ed d rifts o f flowers, un der co ver o f so ftly lash ed e y « , M on ica studied h is face . D id h e know a ll th a t w ^ w rong w ith E ileen ? D id h e even see a ll the surface w rongness o f lips too red an d h air too b righ t, th e clothes an d th e m ann er of a w o m ^ of th ir ty on the im m atu re b o d y o f a girl seventeen? A n d b en eath th is pa in ted surface did h e see o n ly a passion ate, waywim d, insolent g irl? H a d h e n eve r seen w to t a lread y M on ica h a d tw ice g lim psed th a t afternoon— once in th e unguarded m om ent ol th e g ir l’s m eeting w ith h er fa th er, w hen she h ad th row n passio n ate a rm s abou t h is neck, an d again w hen th ey h ad com e upon her unexpectedly on the s ta irw a y , foam ing, g litte ring, on h er w a y to a dinner p a r ty ? , H a d he n o t caugh t s igh t o f som ething fleeing from him in h er eyes— som ething! frightened and asham ed? A n d h a d h e n o t fe lt, a s M om ca had, a qu ick clutch a t h is heart?

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WH A T do y o u m ean, A lan — aU th a t is w rong w ith E ile e n ?”

H e w aited u n til the m an h ad le ft th e room . “ W h y — h er b ein g gen erally un cared for

an d w h a t th a t com es to ,” he said- 'p e m g m ore o r less w eedy an d un cu ltivated , y o u kn ow . Sin ce L is a died, she h as done p re tty m uch a s she liked— q u it school, gon e abou t everyw h ere, b ou gh t h er ow n clothes, picked her o w n friend s. A ru inous procedure fo r a g ir l lik e E ileen . I h ave n ’t h a d th e tim e nor th e w isdom to d eal w ith h er. I could only sp o il her. A n d th ere she is— spoiled— fo r y o u to save , M on ica . T h a t w as one o f the hundred reasons I h ad to h a v e y o u . T h e o th er n in ety-n in e ,” h e lean ed close to her eyes, “ a re th a t I lo v e y o u .”

Sh e la id h er h an d o ver h is to answ er anO to h a lt h im . v

“ T e l l m e m ore abou t h er, A la n . D id she h ate y o u r m a rry in g m e ? ”

“ I don’ t un derstan d her, dear. Som etim esshe seem s to h a v e so m uch feeling about th in gs an d th en , w hen I am expecting a torrent, so little . T h e re are dam s an d flooik- A t first she accepted m y m a k i n g w a in alm ost in d ifferen tly— on ly sa id in th a t h ard little w a y she h as, ‘ T h e n y o u d id n t rea lly care fo r m other, a fte r a i l? ’ T h a t is h a rd W explain— even to oneself. B u t I tried to tell h er how I s till cared fo r her m other, an d y e t fo r y o u , to o . 'N o , I don’t un derstan d, she sa id ' I don’ t b e lieve one ca n care tw ice—I d o n ’t b elieve i t . ’ T h en — she w a s ta k in g a book from the shelf— she flun g i t v io len tly across the room an d th rew h er arm s abou t m e. 'O h , d a d d y , d ad d y, d a d d y ,’ a s she used to w hen she w a s q u ite a little g irl, ‘ don’ t go to h er, d a d d y . D o n ’t le a v e me. I ’m so lo n e ly .’ I e x p l a i n e d th a t w e w ere all go in g to b e together, b u t she o n ly shook her h ead . ‘ I f y o u m a rry h er,^ y o u w ill n ever b d o n g to m e again— n e v e r .'”

“ W e m u st b e v e ry goo d to h er, saio M on ica. “ I am tb e in tru der.”

“ Sh e adored h er m other,” said A lan .“ Sh e adores y o u ,” she replied.

SH E w ill adore y o u ,” he laughed-^ “ I t sounds lik e a F ren ch conjugation .

M o n ica h a d n ever b efo re faced antagonism . Sh e h ad a lw a ys w alked tr iu m p h an tly through life, h er b ea u ty going b efo re h er like a n arm y w ith banners, h er ch arm an d sweetness m aking friends in th e m o st u n frien d ly p laces.

B u t suddenly— there stqod E ileen .P e t ty an d childish, ign o ran t an d unreason

ing, b u t oh, so determ ined to b e an enem yentrenched an d grim ! A force M o m ca could n o t gauge n or account fo r opposed hCT, and e v e ry effort she m ade to w in th e confidence and lik in g o f th e g ir l w a s tu rn ed to insu lt. I n th ree w e A s , in six, M o n ica h ad n o t w on a single k in d ly g lan ce fro m E ile en , who w ould not s ta y a m om ent alone in th e sam e room w ith h er n or en ter into th e b riefest conversa-

* '° '"A n d i t isn ’ t b ecau se I am h e r steprnother n or even b ecau se I am y o u r w ife, she exp la in ed to A lan once, “ th a t she h ates and d istrusts m e. I t ’ s so m e th ii^ else— v a ^ e au d hidden— som ething, I th ink, th a t has nothing to d o w ith m e an d th a t w p here befo re I cam e. A n d som ehow it m ak es her not so m uch h ate a s fe ar m e. A n d tn a t s

stran ge , too. Y o u w on ’t u n d e rp an d this, A lan b u t som etim es I feel a l it t le shock of repulsion fo r her, a s though th ere w ere something— oh, secret an d unclean, like a slow poison w orkin g w ith in her— and then i t is lo st in a g re a t flood o f p ity .”

“ M o n ica ! R e a lly y o u re becom ing m orbid ab o u t this- Y o u ta lk a s though E ile en w ere a path ological case, a su b ject f p ahem sts, and she’ s ju s t an o b stin ate h ttle g irl— a bad, s illy little g ir l h av in g a ta n tru m . I sa y we sp tin k lier.” , , ,

B u t M o n ica , h er ej-es on th e golden window s across th e stree t fro m the couch w here th ey sat, di d not sm ile. . . .

" N o , A lan , y o u d o n 't un derstan d . A nd i t ’ s b ecau se y o u d o n 't un derstan d, don t ev e n th in k there is a n yth in g to understand, th a t E ile e n h as becom e a s she is . A n d li, betw een us, w e don’ t un derstan d v e ry soon, an d h elp her. I ’m afraid— I ’m tru ly afraid fo r w h a t m a y h ap p en .”

“ W h y , M o n ic a ! W h y , dearest, wh^at do y o u m ean ? Y o u ’v e brooded o v e r th is so m uch th a t y o u ’v e grow n n ervou s an d super- sen sitive . I ’m sure i t ’ s som ethm g quite sim ple an d ob vio u s th a t ’s w rong w ith E ileen -^ ju s t h er je a lo u sy o f m e an d fo r h er m other.

M on ica shook h er h ead slow ly.“ N o , A lan . . . . T e l l m e, h as anything

ever h appened to frighten E ile e n ? ”“ W h y , no . I 'm sure not. Sh e w ould h ave

t ol d m e. W h a t co u ld h av e happened? ”“ Som ething th a t h as m p le h er s ick to h p

v e ry sou l. I 'm sure o f it , though I can t g e t d o se to it . I t ’ s in h er ey e s w hen they escape m ine, an d i t ’s th ere m ost o f a ll when th ey look b ack a t _ m e so b razen ly . . . . B a b ie s can lo ve som etim es, A lan — desperately . T h e re n ever h as b een th a t? ”

“ N e v e r . O f course.”Sh eru b b e d h e r cheek so ftly again st h is sleeve.“ V o u w o u ld n 'tk n o w a n y w a y , o ld s il ly . . . .

Y o u w on ’ t lau gh i f I te ll y o u w h a t I th ink?“ Of course not, d e ar.”B u t th e golden w indow s across the street

w ere flinging t in y g ilt d isks in to h er eyes and i t w a s th a t h e w as th in k in g of.

“ Som etim es, w hen I 'm alone in th e house, reading, p lay in g th e p ian o, a s I o ften do at tw iligh t, I h ear a sudden c r y an d I sta rt up an d listen . N o th in g . N o one. B u t I ca n t s it q u ietly . I w an d er upsta irs- T h e house is v e ry s till. N o one there. N o one hascried ou t. Y e t , I could sw ear I h ad h eard It— th e c ry o f som e one ca llin g fo r help— p m e one, a prisoner, h idden a w a y m a secret place, ca llin g fo r release. A n d w hen, w ith so strong a con viction th a t i t com es from E ile e n th at 1 p a ss h er room to lo ok in, e ither she is not th ere or she is dressing to go out, an d th n w s her h ead b ack an d looks a t m e w ith that brazen, d e fian t lo ok o f h ers.”

“ 'D U T , dearest, i t a ll seem s so fan cifu l p .d un real to m e. Y o u ’v e tak e n the whole

th in g so m uch to h eart th a t y o u ’re b e g in n ip to in v e n t exp lanation s fo r w h a t y o u d o n t un derstan d. Y o u ’ re s im p ly un h ap p y and discouraged ab o u t E ile en .”

M on ica drew one slim , r b g e d h an d u p over th e o th e r . .

“ Som ehow , y o u d o n 't see it , A lan . Y e t it s there, p la in ly to m y eyes. Y o u don’ t see even th e o b viou s th ings— in h er face, m her m ann er.” Su d d en ly, she lean ed fo rw ard MO seized h is shoulders, a lm ost sh ak in g him- “ L o o k a t her, A la n — lo o k a t her, j i a t once. T h e n y o u ’ ll b e a fra id , a s I am , fo r Edeen— an d w h a t is b efore h er.” , , v , j .

F o r th e m om en t he w a s im pressed, troubleo, then drew h er g e n tly to h is shoulder.

“ Y o u ’re tired , d e ar. T r y n o t to th ink ol i t a n y m ore now .” , -

B u t th a t evening th e open rupture wnicn M on ica h a d dreaded ev e r since h er arrival, cam e suddenly . Sh e h ad h a d a sligh t headache an d h ad to ld A la n she w ould n o t ^ to the p la y ; th en , a t the la s t m om ent, h W leu b etter and dressed h u rried ly . Sh e h ad just jo in ed him in th e low er hall, w hen EUeen appeared , sc in tillatin g in span gles an d jewels, on the u pp er lan d in g. W h en she saw M om ca, she cam e to a sudden h a lt m h er g a y flight dow n l i e s ta irw a y ; h er eyes flash ed dangerou sly an d h er vo ice fiew out h k e a lash.

“ I th ough t w e w ere going alone, she criM to h er fa th er. “ I th ough t y o u told m e J « h ad a h ead ach e ." T h en , before h e could answ er, she turned an d ran , stum blin g blinoiy, tearin g h er flounces, b ac k u p the stairs. T h e y h eard -h er d oor s la m an d a funous, o u traged cry leap a fter it . . . . . i .„ ,

“ L it t le d e v ill” cried A lan , seizing_^his nai an d g lo ves. “ C om e along, M om ca.

B u t M o n ica w a s a lread y h alf-w a y up-stairs “ W a it. Sh e m u st go w ith y o u , Alan,

she called b ack o v e r her shoulder.E ile en , tossed in a g litte rin g d rift upon me

bed, w a s b eatin g her piUow w i ^ f ’fists. M on ica stood a m om en t h e s i d e ncr, -

then stooped fo rw ard to sa y g en tly , Euecn, i. dear— I ’m so so rry . I — ” . . ^

T h e g ir l lea p t lik e a hunted , i n f u r i i ^ an im al, h er ey e s dan gerously aflam e, n v i vo ice w as hoarse an d strangled .

(Conlinned on page 17 6 )


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 175

H ow Y o u r Ice B o x Is Q u ick ly C onverted

In to a Frigid are

1 The frost coil is placed in ihe ice compartment of your refrigerator as shown above,

2 The c o m p r e s s o r {shown below) is placed in the basement or other convenient location.

3 The frost coil and the compressor are connected by two small copper tubes, and a connection made to your electric wires.

That's all. Your refrigerator becomes cold and slays cold.

You have Frigidaire electric refrigeration.

y o u r IceBox r i g i d a i r e

T T ’ S E A S Y . T h e c a k e o f ic e n o w in y o u r r e fr ig e r a to r is r e p la c e d b y th e

F r ig id a ir e “ fr o s t c o i l , ” w h ic h is colder than ice and never melts. Y o u e n jo y , im m e d ia te ly , th e fu ll c o n v e n ie n c e o f F r ig id a ir e electric r e fr ig e ra t io n .

F r ig id a ir e m a in ta in s a c o n s t a n t , dry c o ld — k e e p s f o o d fre s h a n d w h o le s o m e in a n y w e a th e r— m a k e s d a in t y ic e c u b e s a n d d e lic io u s d e sse rts— s a v e s th e p o s s ib le a n n o y a n c e o f o u ts id e ic e s u p p ly — a d d s g r e a t ly t o t h e c o n v e n ie n c e o f h o u s e k e e p in g . A n d F r ig id a ire is not e x p e n s iv e . I n m a n y lo c a lit ie s its o p e r a t io n c o s ts less th a n ice .

T h e r e are th ir t y h o u s e h o ld m o d e ls o f F r ig id a ir e — e le v e n c o m p le t e w ith c a b i n e t , a n d n in e te e n d e s ig n e d f o r c o n v e r t in g p r e s e n t re fr ig e ra to rs in t o F r ig id a ir e . T h e r e a re a ls o F r ig id a ir e m o d e ls f o r s to re s , fa c to r ie s , h o s p ita ls , s c h o o ls a n d a p a r tm e n ts .

F r ig id a ire — p io n e e r e le c t r ic re fr ig e ra t io n — is b a c k e d b y th e G e n e r a l M o t o r s C o r p o r a t io n , a n d b y a n a t io n -w id e org a n iz a t io n o f o v e r 2 ,5 0 0 tr a in e d sa les a n d s e r v ic e re p re se n ta tiv e s .

W r i t e f o r th e F r ig id a ir e b o o k , “ C o ld e r th a n I c e . ” I t g iv e s c o m p le t e in fo r m a t io n .

(l^rices\( f .o b Dayton. O)FrigidairewmpZMc mitfi cabmol

^2 4 5 “'’'^or cmmertm^ prtsent

refrigerators into

Frigidaire

D E L C O - L I G H T C O M P A N YSubsidiary o f Qencral M otors Corporation

D ep t. U - 1 1 , D a y to n , O hio

Makers o f D eico-Llfihi Farm Electric P/ants, Electric Pump$. Efccerjc Washing Machines, anti FrigiJflire Electric Heb'cgeracion

E L E C T R I C R E F R I G E R A T I O N

Coat o f haod-Ioomcd Carroeui: Faafaisie detachable scarf o f Baby Fes

EAND-LOOMED FABRICSS oft P a ste l Shades

A touch o f F u r . . . . th ere 's the M od e in S um m er S portw ear

At your Favorite Shopl

D e l M o n t e - H i c k e y N e w Y o r k

z 4 6 W e s t j S t h S t r e e t


176

Th e “ elegante” insists on wearing transformations bearing the name Manuel.

She knows that for quality, artistic workmanship and simplicity of design they have no equal. Manuel’s establishment is renowned for its modern postiches. He specializes exclusively in. hair goods.

T o s t d by

C a r l o t t a M o n t e r e y

T h o to s by

M U R A Y

T he photograph above shows Miss M onterey’s own hair, as it is now cut. T he other portraits illustrate what a striking "tra n sform a tion ” M anuel’s skill can achieve.

"Vloir Cjcxxlc/’£ / > c c k u / ’ L u e U '

29 £cu/*t48tb cAreet, HeujOSrh.

T H E S E C R E T P R I S O N E RM a r i e B e y n 0 n R a y ’ s S t o r y

(C o itlin u ei fro m page 17 4 )


“ G e t o u t o f h e re !” she cried v io len tly . “ L e a v e tb e room , do y o u hear?— a t once. G ood G od, can ’ t y o u see how I hate you?

M on ica drew b ack , fe arfu l o f such violence. W ith h er h an d on the door, she tu rn ed to say qu ietly , “ I w an ted to tell y o u th a t I ’ rn not going w ilh A lan . H e ’ s w aitin g to r y o u downsta irs. I ’m so rry . I t w a s a m istake.

“ G e t o u t !” rep eated th e g ir l through clenched teeth.

B u t w ithin ten m inutes, M on ica, w a it n ^ in her room a t th e other end o f th e h all, neard E ile en ’s door open an d then h er vo ice, qepre- catin g an d tim id, speakin g to .Alan in the low er hall. T h e n th ey w ere gone. .

T h e n ex t m orning she m et E ile en m tne h all. T h e g ir l paused a fe w step s b e y o ^ M o n ica and, w ith out turn ing, said in a bard little vo ice, “ T h a t w a s a rd u lly decent o f you — w h a t y o u did la s t n ig lit.”

MO N IC A ’ S vo ice, a s she cam e a step tow ard her, w as v e r y soft.

" N o ” she said . “ I ow e y o u so m ucn. J- secm to ta k e so m uch from y o u , though I don’t m ean to. I w a n t to g iv e to you— not ta k e a w ay— if y o u w ould only let m e.

A little sob b roke from E ile e n . Sh e tossed b ack h er h ea d an d looked w ith stran ge, w ild eyes a t M on ica, then fled fro m h e r dow n the

T h a t w as th e beginning. M o n ica 's advan ce into th e g ir l’ s confidence w a s a t first slow an d un certain . T h e re w ere d a y s w hen E ileen chattered w ith h er a s n a tu ra lly an d spontan eously a s to a frien d o f h er ow n age an a w as ga y , bubbling, an d affection ate; an d there w ere o th er d a y s w hen she avoided her, grew sullen, and liv ed to herself, secretly . U n-

' un derstan dable, bafflin g l M o m ca could find ! nothing in th e g ir l’ s ch aracter to account tor

these changes. Sh e w a s passion ate and I sw eet, obvious a n d docile— ju-st a norm al,I lo vab le yo un g girl. B u t som ew here w as

som ething tw isted an d d isto rted -^ a sudden tu rn in h er ch aracter b eyon d w hich aU w as dark— a door, a s M o n ica v isu alized it , locked and barred , b eyon d w hich la y a n unknow n and forbidden cou ntry.

D u r iM th e n ext six m onths, one b y one aU th e doors leading in to E ile e n ’s co n fi^ n c e opened to M onica— a ll b u t th a t one. U o re as she cam e to th e g ir l in th ose m onths, she n ever cam e one step nearer to th e th in g tlia t w as not E ile e n b u t th a t dw elt m h er l i e a secret prisoner. E v e n w hen, a t la s t , in leen seem ed com pletely h ers, th ere w ere stih tim es w hen she w ould ru d e ly b rea k th e bonds o f their friendsh ip an d escape m to th is unkn ow n region from w hich issued obscure and w ay w a rd desires an d unaccountable u n p u !s« . At such tim es, lik e a childish M r . H yd e, she w ould tram p le on th e th in gs th a t w ere rnost d e ar to her, retu rn to her o ld , v ic io u s h ab its an d in so len t m ann er, an d m o ck a t M o n ica 5 gentleness. T h e n , suddenly, she w ould Hmg herself in a passion o f rem orse into M o n ica s a im s and th e e v il en chan tm en t w ould beb roken fo r weeks to com e. .

B u t e v e n then th e secret door rem ained closed to M on ica.

GR .\ D U A L L Y M o n ica cam e to know all the g ir l’s friends. “ M o st o f them are rea lly

sw eet, sim ple, charm ing lit t le g irls w ith v ery p re tty m anners— w hich th ey som etim es use, M o n ica described th em to A lan . A lan , she found, h a d n o conception o f th eir w a y o f l i i ^ n eve r conceived th e endless bridge gam es w ith th eir im m oderate debts, th e silly love-m atang, la te hours, cocktails, cigarets— a ll the anec- ta tion o f a n em p ty, v icious, ^ u l t existence; an d she saw no reason to en lighten h im . I t w as enough th a t E ile en should gra d u a lly be w on from all th is, an d th a t A lan should viteuely recognize th e change in h er softened m anner, h e r s lo w ly em erging, illu sive prctti- ncss, shorn o f a ll its s illy p a in t an d ex tra v a ga n t fu rb d o w s. . . . ,

M o n ica sou ght am ong these friends lo r a clue to those d a rk episodes in E ile en s iiic , b u t tJacre w as no en lightenm ent here. N o w here, in a ll the g ir l’ s ligh t, inconsequential en viron m en t could she find a n yth in g related to those u g ly ph ases o f h er character.

T h e n one d a y a yo un g m an, a friend ol E ileen 's , w hom M on ica h a d m et once or tw ice, cam e to th e house an d asked to see M on ica herself. A s soon a s she entered the room she saw th a t he w as conlroUing an unbearable excitem en t. H e ju m p ed up and a lm ost ra n to her.

" M r s . D u ran d , h e said , I m sorry to b oth er y o u . P erh ap s I shouldn’ t h a v e come. I d o n 't know w h a t y o u ’l l th in k o f m e. 1 didn ’ t know w h a t else to do. I^baA come. I w an t to te ll y o u abou t E ileen .”

M o n ica fe lt th a t, unless she stopped him , he w ould go on in definitely w ith these short, exp losive sentences, lik e a nervous ^ o o l b o y . I t w as a lm ost lau ghable , an d y e t h is deadly earnestness sen t a l it t le th rill o f apprehension dow n in to h er h eart.

“ S it dow n, ” she m urm ured.B e fo re he w a s seated , h e w as speak in g agam .• T know y o u m ust th in k i t strange fo r me

to com e to y o u lik e this- I t w a s aw fu l, tryiiigto m ake up m y m ind w h at to do. I hope I ’m doing w h a t’ s right. W ell . . H e crowded h is doubts dow n w ilh boUi h an ds an d hurled liim self fo rw ard , regardm g- h er \v ilh te n « , y o u n g eyes in w h ic i she saw such a sw ift rushin g o f life . “ I ’v e kn ow n E ile e n a long tim e— even b efore y o u cam e, M rs . D i^ an d , I ’v e a lw a ys liked h er a lo t. B u t I w as alw ays fighting ag ain st it , too. I d idn ’ t th ink I o ugh t to ca te fo r her. She w as hke-;-hke tem ptation . Sh e w asn ’ t th e k in d o f g irl I w anted to like. I d idn ’ t th in k she w ^ v ^ nice— or v e ry good— th a t is— ” he hurried fra n tica lly to co ver h is m istak e, ' ' she seemed so g a y , so— w ell, I 'm a fra id I th ough t o f it as fast, M r s . D u ra n d .” Such intense trouble in those y o u n g eyes! “ Y o u see. I ’m studying fo r th e m in istry an d I guess th a t m akes me p re tty s tiff an d hard som etim es. I 'v e no rig h t to b e like th a t.”

“ W h y, I un derstan d,” said M om ca km dly. “ M in isters are n o m ore in to leran t th an the rest o f u s.”

“ Y o u see, a lthough I didn ’ t w a n t to like h er, y e t— , ” he seem ed in a desperate struggle to g iv e h er th e U u th o f it— “ y e t it w as ju st th e th ings a b o u t h er th a t I d idn ’ t w a n t to l ik e th a t I liked the m ost— h er g a ie ty , her lightness— even h er fastness. I w as asham ed o f m yself, y e t i t w as th a t th a t a ttra c ted me to h er. W h en I th ough t how g a y an d laughing she looked, a s she danced and sm oked and te a sM m e o v e r the w ine g lass, and th e w ay she flun g b ack h er h ead to lau gh , I fe lt hot an d h ap p y a ll o v er.” Sud den ly h o stopped, deep ly troubled . “ I don ’t see how I can tel!y o u a ll th is, M rs. D u ran d .”

“ O f course y o u ca n ,” sh e said gently,“ I ’m lie r m o th er.”

“ W ell, b u t a ll th a t w asn ’ t w h at m ad e me re a lly lo v e her. E v e n a t firs l, before you cam e, there w as som ething good an d sweet under a ll h er g a ie ty th a t she didn ’ t w an t an\ one to know abou t. I t w a s alm ost a s though she w an ted to k ill h er rea l se lf b y a ll the awful th in gs she did- I ’m a fra id I d o n ’ t m ake it d e a r— ”

Y e s , ” sa id M on ica , “ p e rfec tly d e a r .” A n d suddenly it seem ed to h er th a t this

youn g m an, w ho a t first h ad seem ed to her just a neglig ib le b oy, w as a m ature an d thoughtful person w hose lo ve h ad g iven h im a rea l understan d in g o f th e girl- Sh e leaned fo rw ard to a sk breath lessly , “ te ll me, do y o u know what is the m a tte r w ith E ileen ? ”

T h e re w as n o shock o f surprise in h is eyes, ju s t a deep trouble, an d h e shook h is h eaJ.

“ N o - E x c e p t th a t fo r a ll h er g a ie ty , she isn ’ t h ap p y . A n d th a t th a t m an is somehow responsible fo r it .

“ W h a t m a n ? ”“ W h y , he— M r. F lem in g— d o n 't y o u know?

T h a t is w h a t I cam e to ta lk to y o u abou t.” “ M r .F le m in g ? W h o i s h e ? ”“ T h en y o u don’ t know him ? T h a t is what

h as been w orryin g m e— w h eth er y o u knew an d s t i l lle t her go w ith him . O scar F lem m g— a n o ld m an. E v e r y one know s h im . A Iteaft — a n old beast— ” th e b o y clenched h is nsls. “ Sh e doesn’ t go w ith h im so m uch now as before y o u cam e, b u t still, eve ry b o d y talks abou t it . Som ething b reaks inside m e whenever I see th em together. Sh e doesn ’ t reeni sw eet to m e th en , b u t disgtwffng— like hrai. I t is b ecau se o f w h a t peop le h av e been sa^ ^ S recen tly th at— th a t I cam e to y o u . Oh, M rs. D u ran d , she m ustn ’ t see h im a n y more— ever a gain '

M on ica rose w ith h er h an d to lier d iteks, th a t w ere suddenly w h ite and d raw n . Here, she fe lt a t once, w as th e tru th . A s soon g th e b o y began to speak, she fe lt th is to txi the answ er to a ll her apprehensions.

“ T h a n k y o u .M r . A rn o ld ,” sh e sa id , tOMk y o u fo r to ilins m e. I w a n t to m ake Eileen happy- I to in k th is w ill h elp m e.”

H e rose, too.

“ T H A V E N ’T done an ytliin g w rong, h ave I?i - I 'v e th ough t abou t i t so m u ch . 1 dori t

kn o w hoiv to h elp h er m yse lf b u t I thought i f y o u kn ew a b o u t it , y o u w ould know wliai to d o - s o she w ill b e h ap p y . Oh, Mrs.D u ran d , I lo ve h er s o !”

H e stood m iserab ly b efo re her, h is w orkin g con vu lsively . She h eld o u t her hanto h im an d h e gripped it spasm odically .

M o n ica m et M r . F lem m g. A n old m a^ shaken w ilh y e a rs an d sinfulness, fro m wnom m others snatched th eir daughters a s from • p lague. B u t he w as n o t to b e tu rn ed out 0) society w here h e h ad grow n o ld in sin ^ p leasure. H e w a s tenacious— an d secur , M on ica sm iled upon h im an d h e e ‘Ow= d im ly, sh aken w ilh a senile pleasure. d id not b e lieve him self p a st conquests, oi •h e w as c ra fty . EUeen? O h y e s , h e knewA nice l it t le g ir l. H e w as, h e m ight say, • friend o f the fam ily , h ad know n h er motne , though h e h ad n ever th e h ap p m e ^ ^ jj m eet the present M rs. D u ran d — the fab ea u ty , p a in ted b y Sargen t, b y S ir Jo L a v e ry .

(.Continued on po,ge 17 0 )


'ANDARINE* is the fragrance which Bourjois, master o f French toiletries, has created to express the Orient. It is mysterious and beautiful, whether in Parfum Mandarine, or Eau de Toilette, or Poudre, or any o f its lovely— and luxurious— form s.


Are BargainsAlways Bargains?

B a r g a in sa les are a lw a y s a t t r a c t iv e . T o g e t s o m e th in g fo r less th a n o n e

■ H t o rd in a r ily p a y s fo r i t s e e m s t o b e a lu re to e c o n o m y h a r d t o resist.

B u t all b a rg a in s d o n o t re p re se n t Irue e c o n o m y .

A s a ru le , h o s ie r y b a rg a insa les c o m p r is e s to c k in g s th a t a re im p e r fe c t in s o m e r e s p e c t o r o th e r . I t m a y b e h a r d fo r th e in e x p e r ie n c e d e y e t o d e te c t th e se fla w s , b u t th e y d o e x is t . I t m a y b e u n e v e n k n it ,a b r o k e n th re a d ,o r a n y o n e o f th e m a n y th in g s t h a t c a u s e h o s ie r y t o b e r e je c te d u p o n in s p e c t io n .

O n th e o th e r h a n d , g o o d h o s ie r y , l ik e a ll g o o d m e r ch a n d ise , IS a re a l e co n o rn y .

G o r d o n H o s ie r y is a s tr ik in g e x a m p le o f th is . W h e n y o u a sk f o r G o r d o n H o s ie r y y o u k n o w th a t y o u w ill rec e iv e a s to c k in g th a t has b e e n m a d e o f th e fin est m a ter ia ls , u n d e r id e a l c o n d it io n s a n d s u b je c t e d t o n ^ d in s p e c t io n — a ll o f w h ic h in -in s p e c t io n — a n o i su res s ty l is h a p p ea .ran ce a.nd c o m p le t e s a t is fa c t io n d u r in g its lo n g life .

T h e m a k e r s o f G o r d o n H o s ie r y a r e p r o u d t o p u t th e ir n a m e o n it . I f th e y w e re n o t su re o f th e q u a lit y

o f th e ir p r o d - u c t t h e y w o u ld n o t d o th is , f o r th e y k n o w th a t ify o u w e re n o t sa tis fie d w ith y o u r p u rch a se

w o u ld k n o w w h a t not

B uy Gordon Hosiery jo r all the fam ily— men, women, children and babies— at (he belter shops everywhere.

y o u -------------------t o b u y th e n e x t t im e .

T h e q u a l it y o f a ll G o r d o n H o s ie r y d o e s n o t v a ry . W h e th e r i t b e s ilk , lis le , c o t t o n o r w o o l , i t is m a d e w ith th e s a m e p a in s ta k in g ca re a n d a c c o r d in g t o th e h ig h e s t s ta n d a r d o f h o s ie r y m a n u fa c tu r e .

j o r A 1

r

BROWN DURRELL COMPANYG ordonJfosiery - f o r e s t Underwear

\ ew Y ork G ord on U nderwear BostonAyuntamiento de Madrid

J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 177

y V r is to c ra t o f thje. importetiTreJTc pcrfuraca

a d tOe been lesspariicu lar in iis p rep a ra iio n fyd R ^ zOouldnever

have becom e m e fa v o r ile o ft h e tOorlds m osl discrim inaiin^ <iDomen

Jjss Odeurs/fRjQcrreofagrcot vanety each expressive of a most particular purpose or personality including J w Y a flrot.J eM igiJ etlU n d ou rP len d ra and many others. (Sach is created also m mFfacefhwden the Sau de VoiletieValc. andSachet-offering the artistic ensemble.

/ ^A R V S

, jMltlAM .

individual lox o / ^ I ^ S U pacJed atuf Atoom es ioyoui n th^ original patdag^ xjnbAhn. contents undisturh&d-andis imporiad f i r i h « /e c ^ m e n c o n pafronag^j

e x c lu i iv e ly h y

F R E N A R Y S C O M P A N Y '38S^ifth^venue. ff^yorktS it^

"IN X A R IA B L Y - P R E P E R R E D - B Y - W O M E N -

• O P - C U U U R E - A N D - R E E J N E M E N T "

Sunshine and Shoti/erBo t h a t h o m e a n d a b r o a d t h e s m a r te s t th in g th is

s e a so n , fo r o u t - d o o r w e a r , is a s tu n n in g c o a t w it h h a t t o m a t c h , m a d e o f P h ip p s D a r b r o o k A l l -

W e a t h e r S ilk .

S p r in g 's f ic k le w e a th e r h a s n o te r ro rs f o r th e w e a r e r o f a P h ip p s D a r b r o o k c o a t a n d h a t . T h e y ca n b e c a r r ie d in a n u n d e r -a r m b a g o f m a t c h in g m a te r ia l, t o b e d o n n e d o r d o t fe d a t a m o m e n t 's n o t ic e ; a n d a re e q u a l ly a t t r a c t iv e in su n sh in e o r s h o w e r .

P h ip p s D a r b r o o k S p o r t T o g s a re m a tc h le s s f o r s h o p p in g o n T h e A v e n u e , m o t o r in g t o t h e C o u n t r y o r p r o m e n a d in g o n th e d e c k o f a lin er .

Like Phipps Hats, Phipps Darbrook Sport Togs are sold in Smart Shops Everywhere.

In New York, they are sold in our Show Rooms, 10 East 39th Street.

Let us tell you where they are sold in Your City.

M ADE EXCLUSIVELY B5'

l o E a s t 3QCh S tr e e t N e w Y o r k C it y


T H E Y BU Y TAN G EEon the rue de la Paix!

(T Y O R G E T M E N O T sk ies and w in d s fro m th e south c / . . . sh op s lik e litt le je w e ls a lo n g th e rue de la Paix. . . taxis h u rtlin g th ro u g h th e g a y streets lik e co m e ts , s ir e n s a-b lare . . . p re tty w o m e n , sm a rt w o m e n , r ic h w o m e n fro m a ll o v e r th e w o rld flin g in g th e ir m o n e y d o w n lik e g o ld e n ra in . . P an s

in Sp rin g !

W h a t d o th ey b u y, so th e ir lip s w i l l b e as y o u n g a n d lo v e ly as th e ir eyes? . . .T A N G E E .

T an g ee , first o f a ll th e o ran ge lip stick s , a n d th e b est. T h e b est because it d o esn 't stay o ran ge— but changes to yo u th ’s o w n b le n d o f ro se a n d coral

o n yo u r lip s . . . .

T h e b est because it 's as harm less as co ld c r e a m .. .Andw atet-proof-proofagainscyoui h an d k erch ief

— a cup o f tea— a tab le n ap kin — kiss-p ro ot. F or i t takes so a p a n d w ater t o g e t th is lo v e ly lipstick o ff. A n d th e w is e w o m a n d offs h er arm o r o n ly to

p u t it o n again.

For a T angee ComplexionTangee Rougz is Tangee Lipstick's bestfriend. C r e m e Rouge for dry skins— Rouge Compact for the average skin. Qoes on eîl^ — changes instantij — blends perfectly— stays put. W hat price magic? Lipstick, $1. Creme Rowge, $1. Rouge Compact, $.75.

M o n s . D o r i o t

(Be (BeouixjuL nnfin.‘X a n a £ e .

t h e s e c r e t P R I S O N E RM a r i e B e y n o n R a y ’ s S t o r y

(Contmiied from page 176)


“ Oh, o n ly a n Ir is h b e a u ty ,” M o n ic a saidand turned aw ay sm iling. .

L a te r she tried E ileen . M r . T l m n ^ E ile en ’s eyes w ere m stan tly v e iled . A m re o ld th in g. People w ere horrid abou t h im .I f h e lik e d y o u , h e spen t no en d o f ony o u . G a v e gorgeous presen ts. S h e d alw iw s k ep t th em fo r a while, so a s not to h u rt ^ poor o ld feelings, an d then usuaU y g ive n them b ack . Som e o f the g irls w ere h orrid . She d id n 't rem em ber anyth in g special now— a pin perhaps— a necklace. Sh e n o l o ' 'S « ^ o r e ’ lhem'^ M r. -hrnold? E ile en la u d e d an d opened h er ey e s w ide. B illy , ridiculous b o y ? H a d M om ca m et hinn W asn ’ t he fu n n y? So serious— so desperately serious a b o u t every th in g . F a n c y , h e w anted to m a rry h er! “ C a n y o u ic e r it? I n ju st th a t dead ly earn est w a y o f h is , h e b a d asked her— as though m arriage w ere a so rt o f double funeral, .•^s if she w ould m a rry ktm, a im m ster w ith a n archbishop fo r a fath er— she, E d eem

" B u t w h a t w ould b e so stran ge abou t tn at. “ W h y y o u kn ow , a n y one’s m arryin g a

m in ister w ould b e fu n n y , h “ t m e ^ u e - the sm ile grew a l i t t l e stiff an d « ;h d e before it faded— “ « c , y o u kn ow , M om ca.! I t ffldn t sound, som ehow , qu ite such a jo k e a s i t had Started o u t to b e . . . « . .j

T h e n cam e th e n ight th a t M o n ic a received th e le tte r from B i l ly A m o ld -m c o h e re n t fran tic . “ People w ere sayin g—o h , ttmre could b e n o tru th in it— b u t he w a s such a h orrib le o ld m an, E ile e n su ch a b ab y— t h i ^ h ad n o t been so b a d u n ril th is la s t w m o ^ now e v e ry one w a s talk in g— th ey m u st take

^Â s^M o n ica w as reading, E ile e n cam e into th e room . W ith a sw ift in otion M o n 'c a slipped th e le tte r in to h e r dress an d fe lt beH elf tu rn h o t, then v e r y p a le . E i l e ^ paused a m om ent w ith p a rtin g Ups, ad va iicM a h esitatin g step , an d th en s t « d , w ith narrow ed eyes, stu d y in g M o n ica s fa re , bhe h ad seen, an d she w a s puzzled. look M on ica h ad nevCT seen ' " ‘ oface— a lo ok s ly an d beguiling. Sh e sm iled and cam e s lo w ly fo rw ard . B u t , though she sm iled an d looked so assured, M o n ica saw th a t she w a s trem bling.

“ A le t te r? " she asked. “ I saw , I m sorry . B u t y o u don’ t need to w o rry . I g iv e y o u m y w ord I w on ’t m ention i t to a n y one. Y w ca n tru st m e.” Sh e p a tte d M o m ca s a m reassu ringly , sm iling th a t s ly . beguiling sm ile.

to ta k e to h im . T lie le tter w a s definite. S u r d y now h e w ould see, n ow he w ould b elieve , and together th ey w ould do w h a t w as w isest and best. H e w ould suffer, b e angry— S till she m u st go.

B u t M on ica w as n o t prep ared fo r the vioU n ce o f h is outbu rst. H e r ow n m m d had not gone th e fu ll length o f the terrib le conclu sion to w hich he in stan tly leapt.

H e read the letter an d ra ised his head slow ly, an d she saw th e fearfu ' th ough t come in to h is m ind.

“ A lan !— Y o u don t believe— ?“ I don’ t kn ow . P erh ap s.”T h e ce rta in ty o f i t w a s grow ing slow ly m

his ey e s an d she W ed to w ard it off.“ No, no, I dot’t believe it, Man. It can t

be true—I know—I'm sure— ”“ B u t , M on ica , isn ’ t th is ju s t w h a t y o u ve

b een looking for— th e slo w poison? W ou ldn t th is b e th e answ er to a ll y;our questions? M y G od, M on ica , if th is is i t ! ’

f o r

If , OUT doaier cannoi supply y ou , send direct [ 0 C IO B O E W . L U F T C O M P A N Y , N E W Y O R K

Your dealpr's Tmms unll b e appreciated.

T7 0 R a m om ent M o n ica did n o t comprehend,T b u t gra d u a lly i t cam e to h er th a t E ileen th ough t she w as concealing th is le tter becaure i t w as a letter she shouldn t h a v e received.B u t how could such a th ough t hâve rem e to her? W ia t in herself, w h a t m the g irl, could h av e suggested such a possib ility? _

T hen, in a fla sh o f com prehension, she saw the explanation . B ro k en b its o f t ^ P ^ flew together to form tlie solution . Sh e saw th a t th is ro ad m ig h t lead to the un ravelin g of th e m y ste ry th a t surrounded E ile en . She m u st fo llow it . , ,

Sh e rose, p ressit^ h er h an ds o v e r the note w ith in h er dress, keepin g her ey e s im m ovab ly on the g ir l’ s face . .,

“ T h a n k y o u ," she said . I m sure i can

sm ile flu ttered an d w en t out, leavin g E ile en ’s fa ce v e ry still. T h e n , fo r th e first tim e, M o n ica saw the tran sform ation occur— th e a ctu al m om ent o f change from a n o m a i, vo un g g ir l to th a t secret, stran ge, an d te- p e lla n t creature who a t tim es p o sse p ed her.A ph ysica l change, as th o ugh she h ad taken a poison an d i t w ere creeping slow ly through h er b od y, cam e over her— horror m h er eyes,a sneer on her lips. Sh e tossed b ac k h er head, — to laugh, i t seemed— b u t in stan tly h er w hole se lf changed— w as shattered , an d she flung herself, sobbin g p a s s io n a te ly ,'in to M o n ic a s

^ " ^ 0 — n o - n o ! ” she cried. “ N o t you m y G od, n o t y o u , too . M on ica— not yo u !

M on ica h eld h er close, m urm uring reassurin gly. Sh e knew she cou lc^ t pursue th is p lan in th e fa ce o f the g irl’ s suScrm g.

“ D aiU ng, no,” she m urm ured. N o , n o t i- I t isn’ t tru e, dear. W lia t y o u th u ik i s n t tru e .”

\ t la s t E ile en w as qu ieted .“ B u t i f it isn ’ t tru e , then w h at— ?M o n ica la id her h an ds on h er shoulders.“ I can’ t exp la in now , dear. I t 's som ething

I m u st th in k over- P erh ap s later I can tell y o u abou t it . B u t 'iio w , y o u w ill ju s t tru st me, w on ’t y o u ? ” , .

T h e g ir l looked w istfu lly in to h er eyes. “ Y e s , " she sa id d o ub tfu lly , “ y e s , I trust

y o u .” T h en , a s she tu rn ed l o g o ; “ I h a v e t o tru st y o u , M on ica, or I ’d d ie .”

L itt le an d broken, p itifu l an d spoileQl M o n ica drooped fo rw ard an d w ep t. P ity and terro r surged th ro u gh her— p ity to r a sw eet th in g spoiled. Sh e seerned to see the sw eetest th in g in th e w orld suddenly dashed, suddenly v io la ted an d b ro ken . . , „

A U through the n igh t sh e could n o t s l c ^ an d in th e m orning she w en t to A lan . »n e n o longer b a d o n ly her fears an d presentim ents

H e R O S E , and flun g h is chair v io len d y again st the desk.

‘ < I f_ lh is — is— it, M om ca,A n d a t th a t m om en t E ile en entered . She

saw th e pap er in A la n 's h an d an d recognjzerl th e le tter o f the n ight b efore . H e r e y « flew to M o n ic a an d her m in d flew to its condusion L ik e an in flam m able b ran d she took instant Are fro m h er fa th e r 's anger. Sh e advan ced a step , th reaten in gly , to w a n l him_, an d her sm all, w hite fa ce b lazed suddenly m to his.

“ L o ok here! ” she cried, “ y o u le t h er done, do y o u h ear? W h a t rig h t h a v e y o u to blame h er’ Sh e ’ s k in d an d she’s sw eet to e\ 'e iy oiic- Sh e ’ s been w onderfu l lo m e w hen no one cared So w h a t does i t m a tte r if— U she s n o t perfect? P erh ap s y o u th in k oth er women are ^ in t s . W ell, th ey ’ re n o t. . ^ d perhaps yo u th ink— p erh aps y o u th ink— h er speech staggered b u t return ed a t once to its tern b e a tta ck — “ perhaps y o u th in k y o u r first wife w a s perfect. W eU, she w asn t ! S h e w a s n t , I te ll y o u , she w asn ’t ! ” ■

Sh e dropped to th e couch beside M onua, co verin g h e r fa ce w ith shakin g haiids, tremb lin g so th a t her kn ees kn ocked together. Alan stood m otionless. A t la s t : ,,,

“ W h at— do— y o u — m ean ? A n sw er me.She th rew b a c k her head d efian tly .“ I m ean— I m ean th a t L is a w a s b ad , tuo.

B a d . R o t tc n i”H e drew b ack slow ly.“ Y o u Uttle d e v i l ! ” h e w h isp e reL M o n ica saw his gatherin g violence and

rose to d ra w h im aw a y .“ A la n ,” she sa id , tou chin g h is a rm , come

w ith m e. C om e.” ,B u t E ile en , lo ok ing m to h is face , leapt and

flun g her arm s p assio n ate ly abou t hi s neck.“ Oh, d a d d y , i t is n 't tru e ! she aied.

“ D a rlin g , I te ll y o u i t isn 't tru e ! I lied. - I ju s t w an ted y o u to sto p h u rlin g Monna P lease , please, d a d d y , it isn t tru e, I 1

B u t M on ica, w ith a lo ok to A lan , was ] draw ing him to th e d oor. , 1

"P le a s e go , A la n . L e a v e m e alone wiin Ih er. T h is is w h at I ’ v e been w aitin g fo r. .

W hen he w a s gone, she drew E ile en to tne couch b eside h er. T h e g ir l seized h er hands co n vu lsively an d M on ica drew th em m to n «

’ ^*‘ ‘ Y o u can te ll m e now , can ’ t y o u , dear.' she said so ftly . “ W h y y o u are u n h a p p y - everyth ing? So I can help you?

E ile e n did not lo ok a t h er. ..........“ Y o u to ld m e la s t night— it w a s n t true,

’^ “ I t l s n ' t tru e, dear, - l^ e letter w as about | som e one else— abou t— ”

E ile en looked stra igh t m to h er eyes.“ A b o u t m e ? ”M o n ica nodded.“ A n d M r. F le m in g ? ’A g a in M on ica nodded. :“ Y o u b elieve it? F a th e r b elieves it.‘ i f j o — vie don’ t b e lieve it . ’

she|“ V E S - f a t h o r does.” A fte r a pause, ab.-| 1 continued. “ I to ld m y se lf la st nigW 1

w ould w an t to d ie i f y o u w ere like itwi-

“ D e a r E ileen , y o u should h av e known. „ “ H o w could I kn ow . . .? M y m o lh e r . - M o n ica w aited , breath lessly still. “ M on ica, y o u don’t kn o w m e a t all.

n o t w h a t y o u th in k I am . E v e r sm ce y o a ' ' been h ere y o u V e b ren le a c h ii^ m e to p tcR to b e som elM ng I m n o t. B u t it s no

sim ple a s y o u warn, m e ku d eceive y o u an y longer- I w an t to

. f f T ARr<YS'\/rnl1ld eceive y o u a u j lunR ei. * ••— -- w ith you, even if I lo se everyth in g you

- O h, M o m ca, y o u r e theoiuf S T 'h k v e ; t h i 'c n ly ^ n c X t wants lo

“ " “ Yre^^dtar. I do w a n t to ’“ D o n ’ t , don’ t look a t m e lik e that.

w ouldn’ t i f y o u kn ew . . . . vvaii. • gripped h er h an ds betw een h er k n ^S t h e m . “ r i lb e g in w h e n L .^ d .e L , .^ ::I n ever loved a n y one so m uch. M o

{Concluded o n page lo o )


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 179

C o a t unth th e m o d ish Jla re f r o n t , g r a c q n l a n d g ir l ish , i s d e velop ed o f ag ita - m a r in e jtw e l to n e , vA ih b ord er o f tu il- w a l H betoue fu r .

P a r t ic u la r ly p lea sin g en sem b le su il ha s co a t o f viiffw am ch a rm een , w ith s ilk a?id c h l k em b ro id e r e d m o tifs , dres.<: o f ta n fr o s i c r ep e .

The Magic Touch o f The House o f YouthTransforming as the beneficent wand of a kindly- disposed fairy, is the “ magic touch” from the master hands 'o f THE HOUSE OF YOUTH. Fashion and beauty and the lovely adaptation of handsome fabrics— rich cloths, choice silks and fine furs in beautiful harmony of color! These are the enchantments whereby THE HOUSE OF YOUTH creates the exquisite clothes worn and admired by best-dressed misses and youthful

women all over the land.

Ensemble Costumes Coats and Tailored Frocks

Write for the name o f the nearest shop which carries “ HOUSE OF YOUTH” Coats, Tailored Frocks and Ensemble Costumes

“ Success in Dress,” an exclusive and interesting fashion publication, will be mailed to you upon receipt o f your name and address

S C H U L M A N & H A U P T M A N 224. W e s t 3 5 th S t r e e t , N e w Y o r k

they practice w hat they preach!

' I ''HE Seven Ogilvie Sisters X all practice their Com

mon Sense Methods of hair care, and their own hair is their best advertisement.

For more than twenty years Ogilvie Sisters have been authorities on the care ofthehair. Their tremendous success is due to the fact that they understand the individuality of scalps. No single tonic can cure all scalp ailments any more than one medicine can cure all illnesses. The Ogilvie Sisters realize this perfectly, and with infinite patience and scientific care they have developed three splendid tonics, one for each type.

JI1S.S GoofRiiia Ogilvie

T h e O ily Scalp : T H E T O N I C F O R O IL Y H A I R

astringent, n o u r i s h i n g , cleansing. Remove.s d a n- druff.

8 oz. $2.00

T h e D ry Sca lp :T H E T O N IC F O R D R Y H A IR

nourishing, c l e a n s i n g . Removes dandruff.

8 oz. $2.00

T h e T ired Scalpt T H E S P E C I A L R E M E D Y

(for falling hair), stimulating, cleansing. R e m o v e s dandriiff.

8 oz. I 2.00 Miss Clftra OgiMe

B e a u t i f u l H a i r b y Common Seuse Methods

Is your liair too oily, too dry? Is it full ot dandruff, falling excessively, or turning prematurely gray? Any of these symptoms indicates an abnormal scalp condition requiring prompt attention. Do not experiment; you may do more harm than good. W'rite to Ogilvie Sisters describing your scalp condition, and you will receive a persona! letter of advice, without charge. also a copy of their interesting and valuable booklet “ Beautiful Hair by Common Sense Methods '

OgUvie Sisters Preparations are on Sale at Leading New York Department Stores and Also At;

B a l t i m o r e _H oclied iild t K o h n C o.

BostonW m . F ilene'8 Sona C o.B r i d g o p o r tH ow lan d D w G o o d s C o.T h e D . M . ^ a d Co.B r o o k l y nA b raha jn & Straus. Inc. F rederick L oeserB u f f a l oAdHm , M eld tu m Sc A nderson

C l ow e l a n d K alle Broo.H a r t f o r dG . F o x & C o.

L o s A n g e l e sBullock 'eTJie B road w ay D e p t . Store N e w a r kL . Bem bereOr Sc C o. H alm e’sN a r w i e h . C o n n .R eid & BiiBhos

P a t e r s o nM e y e r Bros.Q uackeiibush C o .

O a k l a n dC ity o f Paris

T rea tm en ts hy O s ih ie g iven in The C ity

P h i l a d e l p h i a G lm bel Bros. P i t t s b u r g h Joseph H o r n e Co- P o r t l a n d , O r e .M eier & Frank S e a t t l eF rederick & N elson B on M arche T o p e k a _T h e C ro sb y Bros. C o . W a s h i n g t o n . D . C . W o o d w a rd & L otb rop S a n F r a n e l s o o C ity ©f P a lis

S isters ' m ethods are o f P a r is S a h n s

H a ir , S c a lp a n d H e n n a S p e c ia lis ts

505 F i f t h A v en u e (D ep t. 24) N ew Y o r k C ity23 Kue de U P aix 80S Boylston St. 1108 Conneclicut Avenue

PurU Boslon. Moxs. Washington, D. C.



G u E R L A iN L i p s t i c k

G u e b l a i n I n d e u s u LirsTicK'

iMPSuAt Cologne

PouDRB C* E st M oi GHtrlain 4&

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G u e r l a i n — P a b j u m R u e d e l a P a i x

/ ' 7 )eR F U M E w il l h ave a n ew a n d JL exqu isite m e a n in g w h e n y o u use th is Parfum Rue de la Paix.

M ayhap it w i l l translate fatigue in to ex h ila ra tion ; o r a g rey day in to a g a y o n e . A t all events, it w i l l p u t a b l o o m and a savour o n l i fe — su ch as a ll seek and s o fe w fin d !

G uerla in o f Paris has created th is hau ntin g odeur a n d — that y o u m a y e n jo y it , as d o e s th e Parisienne, in every tin y g lo b u le o f its m ystery a n d lov e lin ess — has bottled a n d sealed i t fo r you in his own Paris laboratory.

In a crystal b o tt le , encased in s o ft g rey a n d em b o sse d g o ld , y o u w ill f in d Parfum Rue de la P aix at th ose sh op s fr o m w h ich y o u o b ta in y ou r o th er G uerla in specialites de toilette.

P A R K & T I L F O R D , N e w Y o t kDistributors in America

P >1 R . I S

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T H E S E C R E T P R I S O N E RM a r i e B e y n o n R a y ' .s S t o r y

(Concliided fr o m page i/ 8 )

n o t fa th er even . E v e r y one adored her. T h e y lo ved h er becau se she w as so g a y an d so liv e ly . Of course I th ough t i t w a s a ll tight fo r h er to d o a ll the th ings she did— h a v e men a lw a ys ab o u t h er an d g o everyw h ere and receive presents— an d fa th er th ough t so, too. I th in k he fe lt a s though she w ere a b ird who w ould w an t to f ly a w a y if h e tried to keep it in a cage. A n d I guess eve ryth in g w a s a ll right until— u n til he cam e.” Sh e w a s speakin g in a h igh, h ard little vo ice a s tlio u gh som e one w ere clutch ing h e r tliro at.

“ H e ? ” repeated M o n ica softly.“ T h a t o ld m an— M r . F lem in g . H e didn ’ t

seem o ld th en . H e h as grow n te rr ib ly o ld in the fa st fe w y e a rs . I u sed to th in k h e w as qu ite handsom e an d v e r y im pressive, so clever and w ell-dressed an d 'dom inating. I used to trem b le w hen I h eard h is vo ice— speakin g to m other. Oh, w ell . . . I guess she thought h im ra th er w onderfu l, too . Sh e w a s a lw a ys going a b o u t w ith h im an d gettin g letters and presents fro m h im . I d idn ’ t rea lly th in k it m attered , b u t som ehow I kn ew I m u stn ’t te ll fa th er. Sh e w ould h id e th e letters w hen I cam e in , b u t she w asn ’ t v e r y carefu l. I guess she thought I w a s too yo u n g to notice. W ell— then she died. Sh e sen t fa th er a w a y w hen she kn ew she h ad n ’ t m uch longer to liv e and she told m e a b o u t a b o x w here she k e p t h er letters and asked m e to b u m them . 1 read ev e ry one before I burned it . I tried n o t to b u t I couldn’ t sto p . I d idn ’ t c ry once. I ju s t seem ed to d ie inside, a n d since th en I don’t h av e re a l feelings in sid e m e a n y m ore— none th a t m a tte r v e r y m uch. I ’m ju s t— dead .”

M on ica could n o t sp eak . E ile en ’ s w hite face, so set, look ing s tra igh t b efo re her, broke her h eart w ith p ity .

“ A n d there’s worse— m uch w orse. A b o u t m yse lf. Y o u w ill despise m e. . . . Y o u know how I m u st h a v e h a le d th a t o ld m an. T h ere w a s a terror, a h orror o f him in m e, a lm ost a p h ysica l nausea. A n d y e t w hen he cam e to m e, a fte r h er d eath , tlie re w as som eth in g in m e th a t w an ted h im . Once h e kissed me, an d I could h av e killed h im . Y e t often, a fte r th a t, h e w a s a ll d a y long in m y thoughts. I seem ed to b e seeking fo r h im and— yes, longing fo r h im . A testles.snes.5— a search— fo r som ething. Som etim es I a lm o st scream ed, I w an ted him so. .And w hen he cam e, I h ad to go to h im , a n d h is kisses w ould b u m all n ight on m y lips. . . . ”

Sh e sa t , looking s tra igh t before her— v e ry s t f i . Sh e drew h erself up a lit t le b efo re she continued.

“ A n d even th a t isn ’ t th e w o rst. I h a v e to te ll y o u e v a y th in g so th a t there shan ’ t b e one iitt le th in g I ’v e h eld b ac k to m a k e m yself seem b ette r th an I am . W ell, e ve n now, som etim es, i t seem s to m e tim t I m u st g o to h im an d sa y , ‘ I h a v e com e agtun.” '

“ N o — n o ! N o t th a t!— O h, w h a t h as be done to y o u ? ”

“ So y o u see— ” she th rew o u t helpless hands, “ I ’m n o good ! Y o u m igh t ju s t as well g iv e m e u p . L is a w as th is w a y , too.”

F o r th e m om ent, M on ica could n o t speak, an d E ileen , g lan cin g up , pu lled a little aw a y .

“ I know y o u despise m e. J u s t n ow , y o u are a little so rry fo r m e b u t w hen y o u see I can ’ t, n o m a tte r how I t ry to, g e t a w a y from this—o h .I k n o w h o w it w i l lb e . A n d fa lh e r— ” Sh e rose an d stood m iserab ly before M on ica. “ I 'm going a w a y , M on ica. I ’d b e b etter off i f I d i i i ’ t h av e such an ea sy l i 'e o f it— if I had to w o rk lik e som e g irls . I ’v e been thinking a b o u t i t an d I ’m sure i t ’ s th e o n ly w a y I can help m yse lf. I t ’ s n o goo d m y s ta y in g here, M on ica, le ttin g y o u t r y to w h itew ash m e and m ake ev e ry one th in k m e n ice and proper. I ’m too— ro tten .”

" D e a r E ile e n !"“ D o n ’t. I know ab o u t m yself— m yself

an d L is a . A fte r to -d ay there’ s n o t one decent th in g le ft in m e. U n til to -d a y I ’d a t least k ep t a ll th is to m yself— I h ad n ’t , n o m atter w h at h appened, h u rt fa th er. B u t n ow — ”

“ Y o u didn ’ t do i t to h u rt h im , dear. Y o u did it to h elp m e.”

“ I t doesn’ t m atter. I t ju s t show s th at I ’m no good when, in e v e ry w a y , I le t m y passions g et th e b est o f m e.” Sud den ly she

slipped to h er knees befo re M o n ica and looked up into h er face, h er o w n for th e firat tim e m eltin g from its hardness an d working p iteo u sly . “ D o y o u th in k w e m ight k eep it from b u n even now , M on ica? C o u ld n 't w e m ake fa th er bcliqve I h ad lied to him ? .And th a t L is a w a s good? Couldn ’ t w e ? ”

B e fo re M o n ica could answ er, a kn ock cam e a t th e door- E ile en seized h er hands in panic.

“ L ie to h im ,” she begged sw iftly . “ F o r his sa k “ , h elp m e to lie to h im .”

A n d then, n o t A lan , b u t a footm an entered “ M r- A rn o ld ,” h e said , an d before they

could re 'u se , th e b o y h ad rushed p a st him. On seeing them togeth er he h alted , abashed. M on ica g a v e h im h er hand, w hich he seized g ra tefu lly .

“ T h a n k y o u fo r y o u r le tter,” she said g m tly , “ I t h as helped to m ake everyth ing righ . E ile en h as been tellin g m e ab o u t it a n d she is go in g to b e m uch happier— ”

E ile e n flew betw een them .‘ •N o — n o !” she cried. “ Y o u m u stn ’ t tell

h im a n yth in g th a t ’s n o t so, M on ica. If B i l l y w rote y o u th a t le tter, he know s w hat e v e ry one is sa y in g and— an d I w an t to tell h im th e tn it li . I w a n t to te ll h im m yself— M on ica, p le a se !” Sh e snatched M o n ica ’s hands, a s th o ugh a fra id sire w ould leave , and held her,

“ B i l ly ,” she sa id . “ E v e ry th in g th e j' say a b o u t m e is tru e . I kn ow y o u w ouldn ’ t b e lieve i t im less I to ld y o u m yse lf. Oh, M on ica, I don’ t need to te ll h im about m other, d o I ? J u s t m yself— ju s t m yself. I ’m no good, B i l ly . I ’v e tried . I ’v e w anted to be— ev e r since M o n ic a cam e and since you to ld m e. . . . B u t n ever m in d th a t now. I t ’ s n o use. I 'm ju s t a s bad— ju s t a s b ad as he is . A n d I can ’ t ev e r got a w a y fro m it, B i l ly . I t ’ s som ething inside m e so th a t I w an t to b e lik e th a t. T h a t ’s w h a t y o u can’ t un derstan d. B i l ly , th a t I -mini it . A n d so I 'm go in g a w a y w here I w on ’t see h im and will h a v e alto geth er d ifferen t th ings to think a b o u t. I th in k i f I w o rk h ard , in stead o f ju st th inking a b o u t en jo y in g m yse lf a l! the tim e, it w ill b e easier. D o n ’ t y o u see, B illy , i f I have to ta k e care o f m yse lf, I m a y becom e stronger an d better? I f I find I can earn m y liv in g and ta k e care o f m y se lf in e v e ry w a y i t w ill m ake m e feel su rer o f m yse lf. A n d I m ight g e t to be a little b it w o rth y o f y o u an d M on ica and fa th er.”

T h e b o y took h e r h an ds gen tly .“ Y o u don’ t need go a w a y to do a ll that,

E ile e n . I f y o u m a rry m e, y o u w ill forget all a b o u t th is . W e can h elp each o th er.”

H er ^ e s opened w id e an d M o n ica saw the first tears spring in to them .

“ Oh, B i l ly , I d idn ’ t th in k y o u ’d w an t me a fte r I to ld y o u . B u t d o n ’t y o u see i t w ouldn 't b e th e sam e i f I cam e to y o u a s i f I h ad to ta k e care o f m yself? T h a t ’s the o n ly w ay I ’B ev e r kn o w w h a t I ’m w o rth . A n d f don't th in k y o u q u ite un derstan d how — how bad I am . Y o u see— even now— even n ow som etim es, I w an t to g o to h im I”

H e stepped b ack .“ Y o u s e e !” she sa id m iserably .B u t a t once h e return ed to her.“ N o , i t doesn ’ t m a k e a n y difference,” he

said- “ N o th in g could stop ra y lo v in g y o u .” “ I can ’ t d o it , B illy . Y o u ’re— y o u ’re

w onderfu l to w an t m e and— an d I lo v e you, b u t th a t is ju s t w h y , don ’ t y o u see?— I can ’ t m a rry y o u . N o t a s I am now— asham ed, d isgraced . B u t i f I ’m ev e r good enough for y o u , B i l ly , I ' l l com e b ack .”

T h e h ard little vo ice w as b reak in g an d she d rew b ack to M o n ica fo r support.

“ T e ll h im I ’m rig h t,” she whispered b roken ly.

M on ica m otioned to h im to go . T h e boy took E ile e n ’s lim p hands, as she lean ed against M on ica ’s shoulder, an d k isse d th em softly, b u t sbe d id n o t l ift h er h ead , even w hen the d oor closed beh in d h im . A n d then, on a long b reath , cam e th e sobs she h ad held b ack so long. A n d o v e r a n d o v e r again M o n ica heard the b roken w ords, “ B u t I b n r igh t, M on ica, I ’m righ t. I know — it ’s th e o n ly w a y for m e ."

A n d M on ica, holding h e r close, answ ered so ftly , “ Y o u a re righ t, dear, y o u a re righ t.”

After the Paris Openings one might think there should be a lull in the world of fashion, But such is not the case. For ii is after the openings thai the most important phase occurs— and that is ihe selection of models. Those models selected by the best-dressed women are the ones that are definitely smart. And it is tkese selected fashions that will be shown in the M ay Harper’s Bazar.


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 181

I B OS Y P H O N R E F R I G - E H A T O R

' he ability to preserve in whole- • som e good n ess , even m ost

perishable fo o d s , is fou n d in a su perlative degree in this new BOHN syphon refrigerator. ((T h e clean lustre o f crystal-white porcelain, inside and out, combined with the efficient Bo h n syphon system, assures the modern housewife of healthful refrigeration.

Adopted by the Pullman Company; every dining car on all railroads is equipped with B o h n syphon refrigerators and is a rolling testimonial of unsurpassed efficiency.

Bohn R efrig era to r C om p an y

S a in t P a u l , M in n e s o t a

Retail Salesrooms in the following cities :N e w Y o rk— 5 E ast 46th StreetB oston— 246 B oylston StreetC hicago— W ashington Street and G arland Court

Tailored Modesand our" T R I M , s p r ig h t ly , m a n n is h lin e s a re

^ th e r u le th is s p r in g . I f y o u w o u ld w e a r th e m y o u m u s t h a v e t h e s lim , g r a c e fu l f ig u r e o f y o u t h .

P e r h a p s y o u ’ v e a lr e a d y h e a r d th e ca ll o f fa s h io n a n d a r e c o r r e c t in g y o u r w e ig h t a n d f ig u r e b y e x e rc ise , d i e t o r c o r s e t r y . I f s o . y o u h a v e n e e d o f a t r u ly a c c u r a te p e r s o n a l s ca le ,

D e t e c t o r e g i s t e r s e a c h a n d e v e r y jo u n d u p t o 3 0 0 , is f in is h e d in o v e n - 5 aked w h ite e n a m e l, o c c u p ie s le s s th a n

a s q u a r e f o o t o f f l o o r s p a c e , is c e r t i f ie d b y ' th e N e w Y o r k B u r e a u o f W e ig h t s a n d M e a s u r e s a n d is g u a r a n te e d fo r f iv e y e a rs .

A n a c c u r a t e h e ig h t in d ic a t o r th a t s lip s u n d e r t h e p la t fo r m w h e n n o t in u se is s o ld a t $ 2 .0 0 a d d it io n a l .

C O n sale in th e house furnishing d e p a r t

m e n t o f t h e leading dep a rtm en t a n d h a r d w a r e stores. If your dealer cannot supply you write us direct.

WATCHES YOUR WEIGHT

T H E J A C O B S B R O S . C O ., Inc.1 1 H u d son Street, N e w Y o rk

T liia c o u p o n c ith e r m ailed lo n s o r presented to y o u r dea ler entitlcfi y o u t o a free co p y o f th e va lu able l>ooklet, " W a t c h Y o u r W eigh t ' b y D r. Fredericlc W . M u rp h y . D ie tic ia n and F o o d t i -

G et y o u r c o p y to d a y . E v e ry m m ily should h a ve ooe .

N a m e ...................................................................................................................................................................................................

.......................................................................................................................................D ealer 's N a m e .............................................................................................................................................................................. *

D c a l c r ’ d A d d r e s s ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................Ayuntamiento de Madrid


K e e p y o u n g

h FACE MOLDINGJ

CH A R M n a tu ra lly radiates from , a n a ttra ctiv e s k in a n d

y o u t h fu l c o n t o u r . N o m a tter w h a t h e r fe a tu r e s , e v e ry w o m a n c a n e n jo y th e s e a d v a n ta g es i f

s h e u se s t h e p r o p e r m e a n s to a tta in th e m . In te llig e n t w o

m e n k n o w th a t t h e b e s t w a y t o

k e e p t h e s k in lo v e ly a n d fa i t , a n d p r e se rv e y o u t h fu l c o n t o u r

o f t h e f a c e a n d n e c k , is t o s t im u la te a n d n o u r is h t h e u n

d e r ly in g tissues.

T h a t is ju st what Face M old in g , th e scientific treatment originated b y Prim rose H ou se , N e w Y o r k ’ s smartest beauty salon, actually does. S a gg in g and wrinkles quickly yield to its influence a n d th e use o f the fem ou s Prim rose H o u se Preparations, w hich have been also scientifically developed to accom plish definite results.

Face M o ld in g can be easily app lied in you r ow n h om e. E ven one treatm ent w ill convince y o u h ow effective it really is. A s k about it and th e Prim rose H o u se Preparations at any leading departm ent store or smart shop.

I f y o u w ou ld like to have com p e t e n t a n d c o n f id e n t ia l a d v ic e about you r individual com plexion or beauty needs, the head o f the staff o f graduate nurses at Prim rose H ou se w ill be glad to g ive it to you free b y letter. W r ite to her.

P r im r o s e H o u s eB le a ch C re a m

A remarkably effecHre cream for tomng and clearing the skin. Removes discolorations, freckles and brorvn spots on face, neek and hands- At leading stores or mailed direct on receipt o f price, $3 .30.

rimrcr6e pfx>uiSe3 E A S Z S 2 ^ ‘‘ S r

jouiK'’

Reg. U. S, Pal. Off.

A v is it t o P r im ro se H o u s e , i f y o u h a p p e n t o b e in N e w Y o r k , w i l l p r o v e a d e l i g h t f u l r e v e la tion .

Send fo r this great aid to beauty. I t ’s free

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Mouse Bleach Cream. Please print name.

I Name I Address. I City, _

Antamiya

The Park Lane on Park Avenuewhichis one of the typical new apartment hotels.

T H E H O U S E N E W Y O R K B U I L T

H E L E N B U L L I T T L O W R Y

S HORTER and shorter waxes the official New York season.

So, too, then, mast the streets of fashionable residence wax shorter- New York society is moving out, leaving its own New York to lowans and Hoosiers, to bachelor girls chasing careers and chickens chasing dates and buyers chasing chickens, and to Oklahoma oil kings chasing the tail of fast- vanishing society. When Vincent Astor startled the readers of-the two-penny picture sheets the other day—if not his own world— by announcing that his stalely palace on Fifth Avenue would be turned into apartment house property, the real truth of the matter was that his country estate on Long Island had just been completed.

Teas and functions and marble Fifth Avenue halls of the smart architectural vintage of 1900 grow passe. Society is now concerned, not with preserving its feudal right to keep the Other People out, but with enjoying itself- Which it is doing with hunt clubs and goit and international polo and race tracks. And with breeding its own thoroughbred horses and chows and Llewellyn setters.

That’s why society is moving a fourth of its wardrobe and an eighth of its “ likker" stock into Fifth Avenue and Park Avenue apartment house closets. The story of these new millionaire apartment dwellers is really all psychologically tangled up with the dramatic yarn of the Back-To-The-Dog-Kenne's Movement.

Vincent will doubtless hang his j'otlier suit” in an apartment house closet- That will be the next real estate development on Manhattan. And, as usual the stones of Manhattan will tell the archeological story just as they’ve been telling it since old Knickerbocker society first moved uptown from Beekman Street, leaving its fanlight doors and its dormer windows behind it-

Gaze your last then upon Fifth Avenue as she is to-day; your last at gleaming white Renaissance palaces—usually swathed up with boarding before the windows. Hail, ta ta, and farewell to the magnificence and grandeur above Fifty-ninth Street, that came m with Uie Pittsburgh millionaires around tgoo. A new era is gaUoping up-town, defying the traffic cops.

To-day, over on Park Avenue we can discern the blueprints of the coming era. The just completed Madison on Madison Avenue and Park Lane on Park Avenue give an accurate idea of how the old New York aristocracy, transplanted to the land, is gobg to do its sketchy new urban living.

Understand then that this new type of apartment dwelling is not going to take place in the huge dc luxe, duplex apartments of the seven bath persuasion, that could accommo

date in a pinch a whole family connection. Even husbands and wives don't spend the same night in town these nights. Much less is there such a thing extant as a family party.

Picture instead a three- or four-room suite, where furnishings and Chinese mandarin coat hangings arefurnished by the tenant, but where “ service” is furnished by the management. Imagine a service, too, that must go on not only while you sleep, but also while you steam-yacht across to the Indian Ocean. Inhabited or not, your Fifth Avenue or Park Avenue apartment must get its daily dusting dozen.

Picture telephones in the baths, and closets Yale-locked beyond the wildest dreams of thirsty dusting employees. Include in your inventory, like as not, solid oak wall panels from some storied Elizabethan manor house, fitted into your rented living-room at a personal cost of $25,000. And above all keep a mental picture of the living-room itself, oftentimes forty feet ^uare, the mere geographical carpeting ot which should keep any uirifty interior decorator in cars and hats for a year. Fact is the only room in the oncoming suites which will not be constructed on this grandiloquent scale will be the slit of a room for one’s pcrscnai maid.

Then add to the picture a brace or so of butlers, retained on each floor by the management, whose special business it is going to be to remember over a span of a week, or of a year if need be, whether Madame prefers gluten bread, or takes her calories au natural, The room service of the new era must be personol- The Social Register will positively not retain a suite in your house, if service from breakfast to formal dinner on one’s own refectory table shows by word, look, deed, melon, or butler, that it comes ready-to-wear with the lease, instead of being custom-made in one’s own private menage.

What these apartment houses supreme are really going to have to furnish is high personal overnigjif service and short winter season “ lodging” for the international polo players and golf champions that inhabit Long Island and Westchester County and Tuxedo. This is the latest decree of real estate. . , ,

For don’t mistake—in the final analysis it is red estate that controls millionaires more often than millionaires real estate. Back, back, back the story carries us, back to the early days of the nineteenth century, and down into the narrow toe of Manhattan, where business first began to strangle lor breath; then stretched out relentless talons and wrecking squads to tear down the houses before it, by the simple expedient of offering the socially important owners more cold cash for their home sites than they had the

{Continued on page 184)


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 183

The Mode o f High Arches and Short Vamps . . . os presented by O ’Connor & Qoldherg

SATIN SPENNYHENNABLONDEBLACKW HITEFLESH

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O ’C O N N O R & GOLDBERGFamed for Fashionable Footnjear since igoy

Ten O-G Stores for Men and W om en in Chicago

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p r e s e n t

E X Q U I S I T E B R I D A L V E IL S

in rare laces that will mellow with the years into fine heirlooms

M 'A N Y o f these— p riced a t sev era l th ou san d doD ars — are to b e fo u n d a t

A ltm a n ’ s a lon e in th e w h o le o f A m e r ica , and th e y are rare e n o u g h l o h o ld th eir p la ce s w ith m u seu m p ieces o f n e e d le a rt. F o r th e m od est trou ssea u , to o , a re v e ils o f th e fin e q u a lity and c h o ic e p a tte rn n e e d e d to c o m p le te th e ch erish ed b e a u ty o f th e w e d d in g g o w n . P r ice d f r o m $ 18.00 to 15000, in c lu d in g ex c lu s iv e A ltm a n p a n e l v e ils a t t h e h ig h e r p r ice s .

In Point Rose, Point Venise, Point A ppliqu e, Princesse and L ierre Laces


M T V c b S t i l A e U f l '

hc^u Jva /y yo a tu c u f!

IN T H I S w a y th e N e w Y ork . W orld su m m arizes th e re ce n t ex ce llen t co m m e n t

g iv e n Z I P b y th e F ed era l T r a d e C om m is s ion ’s T r ia l E x a m in e

<<i‘Uncle Sam Pronounces HAIR REMOVER (ZIP) O .K .”

‘Gone to Stay Gone!”“ The climax came," says the New York TForW,

“ when one woman, described as a ‘ prominent I^ng Island society matron, ’ took the stand and testified she had been afflicted with such a heavy bewd

lliat she had to shave four times a week. Then she tried the preparation (ZIP), and threw her razor away. These fair rvitnesses offered their complexions to the judge in proof of their assertions. They said they testified simply out of gratitude.”

Thousands of other women today are grateful for what ZIP has done for tliem,

Superfluous hair is unnecessary and can be easily and completely destroyed w ith th e r o o t s .

“ Zipped” — not clipped— is the secret o f the perfect hair line and the beautiful neck. When you have vout hair trimmed, demand a ZIP treatment back of the neck.

Make yourself more beautiful. D on ’ t delay. It you have never.used ZIP, you will marvel in its magic. Fragrant, painless, harmless and easy to use at home, it is pronounced b y experts as the s c ie n tif ic a lly c o r r e c t m e th o d .

JORDEAU M ASSAGE & a E A N S IN G CREAM AND TISSUE BUILDER

Guaranteed, not to I prom ote superfluous

hrkir grow ths. D elightfu lly cooling an d refreshing and a m arvelous preparation f o r building up th e tissue.

6oc (2 oa.) an d $2.00 (H lb .).

JO R D E A U F A C E PO W D E RD eligh tfu lly fragran t, adherent, and light in w eight. T h is creation is gaining a prom inent place on the dressing tab le o f fastidious women

( W h i t e ,, F lesh , B ru nette, Ocre

, , . . ^ ^ ^ , 1 , an d Blush).y j J l i H # $1.00

T he ideal liquid deodorant containing n o staining artificial colors. D estroys odors harm lessly an d rem edies excessive perspiration- A ttrac tive b o ttle 50c

— COLORLESS

FOR SALE EVERYWERE

O th er JO R D E A U p re p a ra t io n s a t t h e fo llo w in g or b y m a il :A d a m M a l d r u m K. A n d e r s o n C o . .

B u f f a l o , N . y .

L . S . A y r e s ,I n d i a n a p e l l e , ( n d .

L . S . D o n a i d s e n C o . .M i n n e a p o l i s , M i n n .

T h a T a i r S t e r e C o . ,C i n c i n n a t i , O h i o

G i m b e l B r o s , ,N e w Y o r k , N . Y .

C i m b e l B r o s . ,P h i l a d e l p h i a , P a .

H a h n a A C o . ,N e w a r k , 'N . J .

J . L . H u d s o n C o . ,D e t r o i t , M i e h .

J o r d a n M a r s h C o . .B o s t o n , M a s s .

K a u f m a n n ’ s T h e B ig S t o r e ,P i t t s b u r g h , P e n n .

T h a L i n d n e r C o . ,

R . H . M a e y &. C o . .

T h e M a y C o . ,

M e ie r* & P r a n k .

C l e v e l a n d , O h i o

N o w Y o r k , N . Y .

C l e v e l a n d , O h i o

ANTISEPTIC AND ASTRINGENTE specia lly prepared fo r skins havin g

large pores, pim ples or skin

} \ irritations. A bsolutely harm

less. I t is ideal both a s ah

antiseptic an d a s a n astringent.

B o tt le .....................................SOc

P o r t l a n d , O r e g o n

A . I . N a m m S o n ,B r o o k l y n , N . Y .

T h e N e s t l e P e r m a n e n t W a v e S h o p , C i n e l n n a t i , O h i o

N e w c o m b - E n d i e o t t C o . ,D e t r o i t , M i c h ,

S a k s & C o . ,N a w Y o r k , N . Y .

S c h u s t e r ' s T h r e e S t o r e s ,M i l w a u k e e , W i s e .

S i b l e y L i n d s a y & C u r r C o . ,R o e h a s t e r , N . Y .

A L L T H E S E P R E P A R A T IO N S A R E S O L D O N A M O N E Y B A C K G U A R A N T E E B A S IS . T R E A T M E N T O B F R E E D E M O N S T R A T IO N A T M Y ,S A L O N

Specialist562 F I F T H A V E N U E , N EW Y O R K

{Bntrance o n 46/h Street)

C R E A T I O N S K C W Y O R K

T H E H O U S E N E W Y O R K B U I L TH e l e n B u l l i t t L o w r y ’ s A r t i c l e

{C ontinued from page 18 2 )


sen tim en tality in th eir syste m to tu rn down. M o re co ld cash fo r the fro n t fo o tage than house, L a re s , P en ates, m arb le m antels, fan ligh t doors, e t a l. w ere w o rth lum ped together. D ecad e b y decade K n ickerb o cker s o d e ty has been fa ilin g to th is econom ic tem ptation , m igratin g n orthw ard a n d ev e r north w ard .

Safe , a s th ey deem ed a t each m igration b eyon d th e w ildest dream s o f b usin ess aggression, the “ an cesto rs” reb u ilt th e ir hom es in w h a te v er w a s the la test fash io n in houses th at season. T h a t ’ s h o w i t cam e th a t o ld Jo h n Ja c o b A sto r around 18 3 0 m oved h is whole d a n u p to A sto r P la ce a t E ig h th Street, to -d a y ’ s W a n am a k cr s ite . A l l th a t’ s le f t o f th a t o ld social cen ter is th e row o f fiv e d in gy colonnaded houses w here S tu y v e sa n t Square s lan ts o ff S t . M a rk ’ s P lace- S h ab b y dow n-at- the-hecls gh o sts o f th e d ig n ity th a t w a s o f the poke-bonneted ’ th irties.

F o r th ro ugh B ro a d w a y ’s n arro w gulch b usiness h ad com e d riv in g on, fa ir ly shoving the so c ia lly elect o u t o f th eir hom e s ites . A n d th e A sto r d a n , ev e r th e pioneers o f th e so d a l m igration , th r ift ily packed u p b a g an d baggage- A tis to cra cy scattered n o rth u p B ro ad w a y to th e region betw een F o u rteen th and T w e n ty -th ird , w estw ard-ho to W ashin gton Sq u are , an d eastw ard through S t . M a rk ’s P la ce a s fa r a s A v e n u e A . T h a t ’ s how Second A ven u e, n ow a p lace o f d e n ta l surgeon ad vertisem ents an d b eaded peplum s, becam e for tw o b rief decades fash ion ’ s actu al rendezvous.

M ean tim e F if th A ven u e w as prep arin g herse lf fo r th e proud d estin y o f h arb o rin g fashion; th e d estin y an d glam our th a t once w as B ro a d w a y 's . O nce m ore w e fin d th e ever- p ractica l A sto rs pressin g on in th e van g u ard o f th e s o d a l m igratio n . In d eed a w hole centu ry ’s O d yssey could b e to ld in th e ad ven tu i- in gs o f th is one fa m ily . H en ce w e find them am on g th e first to en ter th e fam ou s o ld M u rr a y H ill d istrict. A m o n g th e first, to o , to le a v e to m a k e w a y fo r th e W ald orf-A sto ria H o td , th a t w a s In d u s try 's outpost.

Y e t , in sp ite o f A sto rs and th eir ilk , ev e r we h a v e h ad w ith u s th e “ rom an tic ist” school of m illionaires, w ho, fro m sheer sentim ent, h av e hung on in lo n d y grandeur, long y e a rs a fter In d u s try h a d w on o u t in th e re a l estate b attle . A s la te a s f i ft y y e a rs ago, people o f prom inence s till lin gered on in th eir h au g h ty hom es and iron b d co n ies th a t overlooked th e B a t te ry . W ashin gton Sq u are N o r th 's la st stan d is an o ld sto ry , w h a t w ith the ab le assistan ce o f the m agazin e w riters, w ho h av e p laced enough B e s t O ld F am ilies in those dozen old red brick m ansions to rep op iilate F ran ce ’s d evasta ted areas.

T h e re is a p o ign an cy an d a m inor chord to

th is proud resistance again st the m a tch of T im e— w hich is th e one fo rce th a t even m illions can ’ t sn u b !

E v e n the M org an d a n s h a v e fa iled to win o u t in th eir scien tific organized resistance again st th e ruth less irresistib le on slaught of the c ity . T h is M o rgan m atter, indeed, is one of th e m o st p icturesque episodes o f M an h atta n ’s re a l esta te social saga— an episode, a s y o u sh a ll soon see, w h ich is lin ked up w ith this la tte r-d ay F if th A ven u e iirch itectura! scandal o f ours. B e c au se here a t la st in M u r ra y H ill w e str ik e fo r th e first tim e th e new era o f legalized zoning regu lation s. N o longer is business a llow ed to exercise rand om w ilfu ln ess upon the d t y ’ s destiny.

I n these m odern d a y s tlicre p o s itiv e ly m ust b e a w ritten perm it. W h ich m a y b e h ad only w hen th e m a jo r ity o f p ro p e rty holders o f a considerable d is tr ic t v o te to rm se th e height o f th e b u ild in gs or to allow th ere certain specified ty p e s o f business. F ro n t foo tage v o te s as do shares in stockholders’ com m ittee m eetings.

T h e n p ic tu re th e conflict— tb e tw entieth cen tu ry , sd en tific b a ttle . B u s in e ss an d a p artm en ts a n d office build in gs sm u gly decided th a t th ey w ould ta k e on th e E a s t T h irties ea st o f M ad iso n . J . P ie rp o n t M o rg a n , Sr. d e d d ed th a t th e d istric t should rem ain fash ion ’ s residential rendezvous— th a t th e s ta te ly M o rg a n hom es on M ad iso n a t T h irty -s ix th S treet should b e a s w hen fash io n ’s v eh id e s w ere horse-draw n an d fash ion ’ s dogs a te lum ps o f sugar.

R esid en tia l h eigh t to M u rra y H ill h as rem ained. F o r th e first tim e in K n ickerb o cker h isto ry T im e ’s clock h as been stayed , because som ebody w illed i t so. T im e ’s d o c k h as been stopped a s h asn ’ t been done since M erlin p ractised b la c k m agic, an d S leepin g B eau ties abounded, an d w h ole castles could b e doped o ff to n a p fo r a cen tury- T h e o n ly difference h as b een th a t, in th is un rom antic tw entieth ce n tu ry o f o urs, th e b la c k m agic consists of fifty-on e p e r cen t, o f the rea l esta te ’s votes-

Y e t , fo r d l th is la tte r-d ay m agic, fashion k e p t on m ovin g northw ard .

T h e poodles o f th e ’n in eties, sh aven u p like p rive t trees, an d tb e sp an s o f dock-tailed horses, an d th e o ld lad ies, w ith borm ets and carriage p araso ls lik e those o f Queen V icto ria , w ere d y in g off—^tbe last-m en tion ed species d o ubtless m o v in g o n to th eir rea l esta te m ansion holdings in th e ir gu aran teed E piscopalian H ea ven . 'The rau co u s noises o f m otor-draw n tra ffic b ore on u p M ad iso n . M otor-im pelled tru ck s th un dered acro ss th e E a s t T h irties.

Y e t th ese sam e m otor-draw n veh icles w ere ann ih ilatin g d istance.

{C oncluded on page i8 d )

Mattie Edwards llcwUt

The Madison, on Madison Avenue, is another of tke Itixurioiis new apartment holds.


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 185

Take ojf that Double ChinB ring out your H id den Beauty with

Dr. FOLTS’ SOAPBig Hips, Large Busts, Ankles, Arms, Reduced

in a Remarkably Short Time

T i Y not bring out

'Se ugly rolls o f ouble chin adds

Big

tjo W co j

D 6 J [ M A J f SH06 S M T p j f

W yreal under tho: fat? A double ten years t o your Large busts and hips you look matronly, anHes give you a c . appearance, yet if you to , you can bave a perfect face and figure, molded just as you wish it, without trouble or inconvenience of any kind. I P YO U ONLY WA.NT T O T A K E OFF A F E W ROLLS OP F A T H E RE AN D T H E R E , YO U C A N DO T H A T IN NO T IM E . S IM P L Y USE TH IS EASY R E C IP E : Get some o f Dr. Folts’ Soap from a good drug or department store, make a la ^ er , and apply a few minutes, night and morning, on special ^ r t s you want to reduce.Y o u will be surprised at the quick and amazing results in taking o fi fat ftom parts where it shows. M en and women have Irct as m uch as 2 0 inches from their stomach and hips. Double chins and large ankles disappear as if b y magic- Every day more people are using this simple, old-fashioned formula toreduce, because it is absolutely harmless, practical and cheap. So m any women are not fat all over and all they need for a perfect figure is to "tr im off the edges." For them, Dr, Polts' Soap is ideal, because a few applications will do it. Possibly yOT are still slender enough, just getting a little "pliunp,” and you hesitate to eat all you want because you are afraid o f fat coming on. Get some o f Dr. Folts' Soap, uso it once in a w M e, and watch how it will keep your figure into ideal proportions. Ur. Polts' Soap is guaranteed absolutely harmless, does away with pimples, will tonify the tissues and give the skin a wonderful glow o f health.^ B E W A R E OF IM IT A T IO N S— A SK FOR T H E O R IG IN A L R E D U C IN G SOAP C ALLE D D R . FOLTS, I f your druggist does not carry Dr. Polts' Soap in stock he can get it from his wholesaler or you can send a m oney order or check direct to Scientific Research Laboratories, Dept. 8p, 3 5 0 W . 3 1 st St., N . Y . C, This soap sells for soc a cake— 3 for $ 1 .20 .

leaOe Lekind raneemormna--as siOeet as d

U S E

^ ^ B O M O D O RLATEST PARIS CREATIONIn stan tly R elieves B od y O dors and Perspiration

A R E YO U ON E OP T H E M A N Y W H O T H IN K S T H A T O N L Y D U R IN G T H E H O T SU M M E R SHOULD P E R S P IR A T IO N A N D B O D Y ODORS B E T A K E N C A R ^ OP?Then, little do you realize that at all times even during the coldest weather most people are subject to a certain amount of perspiration and body odors. Soap and water alone cannot relieve such condition, it should be corrected with a good deodorant. REG AR D LE SS OF TH E SEASON OF TH E Y E A R , "B O N O D O R ” should be used by everyone faithfully.“ BON O D O R ” is the latest creation from Paris— it has solved an almost impossible problem: to instantly relieve all unpleasant odors without closing the pores, causing sores or lumps or d a m p in g the finest lingerie. N ot only was “ Bon O dor” created for the clcganto who cares to appear and feel at her beet *?, always but it has been found ABSOLITt E L Y IN DISPEN SA- ?B L B FOR E V E R Y W OM AN A T C E R T A IN TIM ES.The chic Pari^enne turns to "BO N ODOR” for so many difJccent uses that a detailed and more intimate booklet has been written and wm be sent ABSOLUTELY FREE OF CHARGE UPON REQUEST with Intcrcstlns French beauty eecrets used by Famous Actresses and u*elI-kjiou'n beauties to keep young and attractive.

Yowr Quarantee" BON ODOR" docs not contain dangerous cheoucals and will do everytliing that is claimed for it. B uy'' BON ODOR * tiy ft and If you are not entirely pleased send back the iinfiT>iahi>4 bo* and your money will be REFUNDED WITHOUT QUESTION. This should prove to you beyond doubts the value of this Incompamble prod not—just try it and you will agree with the smart French women that never before liavc you used such a wonderful deodorantl

Special Offer No. I8B —$2 Value for $1.49To introduce "BON ODOR” Paris latest creation, two full aise boxes wliich sell for S i .00 per box will be sent prepaid upon receipt of S i .40 IF THIS COUPON IS ENCLOSED. Tills offer wili not be honored by druggists who sell "BO N ODOR*' at the n^uJar price erf S i .00 per box. For your future needs buy from your druggist— if he is out of " BON ODOR " ho can get it from his wholesaler.SC IE N T IF IC R E SE A R C H L A B O R A T O R IE S , D ept. 18-B, 350 W . 31st S t.,N . Y .C

N am e...

Address.



■Vo jVo oks '-No Elf es '-No Bias tic Don es

Snuoffleband— Tra84 M a rk— P/iL Eeg. U - S .

N f v York Best Co. B o n vn i T d lcr F ra n k lin Sim on J a y Thorpe L o rd b* Taylor Saks— P iflh Ave.Wanamaker

Bos/onJo rd a n M arsh R . H . W hile Co.

Boone, Iow a Snyder Anderson

BnffaloF lin t (s' Kent

ChicagoM arshall F ie ld

C in cin n a liLondon

L ill ie RockM . M . Cohn Co.

L o s Angeles Bullock RfAinson

M inneapolis E . E . Atkinson

P hiladelph ia B o n w il Teller Slrawbrtdge &*

Clolhier Wanamaker

Pittsburgh Jo s e p h Horne

ProvidenceG ladding

O 1 1onug^ ebanoModern corsetting no longer caricatures ■woman’s figure, but accepts

as its ideal the “ human form divine” and molds the figure into the natural girlish lines of youth.

The Snuggleband was scientifically designed ■with just this ideal in mind. It is made of rich, firm satin, with no bones or constricting clastic to hamper freedom of movement, but so cut that it holds the figure in lines of natural grace and affords a fitting foundation for the slim silhouette.

The Snuggleband is easily adjusted— it “ wraps” across the , back, buttoning in the middle and on either side— six buttons in all, no hooks or eyes. Launders as easily as your lingerie. In pink or white, price $ 12 . The Snuggleband is also offered in imported English mercerized broadcloth at $9.

The Bromley Panty-brassiere, sketched on the left, is a combination brassiere and step-in o f heavy glove silk which buttons on to the Snuggleband, making a three-in-one garment which cannot get out of place. Or you can buy the Bromley straight-line brassiere of glove silk, which buttons on to the Snuggleband, making a two-in-one garment which “ stays pul.” Panty-brassiere, $ 1 2 ; Bromley brassiere, S4 .

The Bromley-Shepard Co., Inc., 31 Paige Street, LoweH, Mass.T he Snuggleband is sold a l the fo llow ing stores. I f your favorite shop cannot supply

you, write us direct, sending bust and low waist measure.

S a n Francisco C ity o f P a ris

St, L o u isS tix , B a er &*

Fu ller

S i. P a u l Golden Rule

• WashingtonJu liu s Garfinckel

W innipegRobertson

T H E H O U S E N E W Y O R K B U I L T

H e l e n B u l l i t t L o w r y ' s A r t i c l e\

{Condnded from page 1 S4)

U p p er F ift l i A ven u e beckoned w ith its prom ises o f sun ligh t an d air, the tw o th ird s o f the sp irit th a t m illions can b'uy the city dw eller, even i f (as is alleged) t h ^ ca n 't b u y happiness- T h e a rts an d cra fts o f m ak in g over lean brow nston e-front parlo rs in to interiorly decorated living-room s h a d n o t been developed, a s th e y w ere to b e developed a fte r the housing shortage s tru ck N ew Y o r k in 19 18 . T h e E a s t S ixties lu red w ilh the la test F lo ren tin e fariiions in arch itecture . N e w Y o rk w as p o sitiv e ly stage-set fo r another social m igration.

I t w as th e “ sm art y o u n g m arried s e t ” th at b egan to m ove on first. Ju s t as i t w a s th e sm art y o u n g m arried set o f 18 5 0 th a t m o ved u p to G ra raerq r P a r k b y brougham - B re a k s cam e in th e social brow nstone phalanx o f M u rra y H ill- H ouses w ere fo r ren t. T h e solem n old deserted m ansions w ere n o t even gettin g the priv ilege o f d y in g a v io le n t d eath in their shoes, a s th e colonnaded m ansions o f A sto r P la ce d ied seven ty-five y e a rs ago, w hen the sm art shopping d istrict on G ran d S treetneeded m ore space an d sen t outw reckin g squads b efo re it , to seize th a tspacc-

In stead , th e insid ious board in |-h ou seb ligh t cam e sku lk in g into th e E a s t T h irtie s— th a t m enace th a t slin ks acro ss th e side streets w hen ever lo rd ly b usin ess m arches b o ld ly up th e aven ues. Soon the re a l esta te an o m riy ex isted o f a boarding-house o f th e bourgeoise w edged in betw een tw o fine old N e w Y o rk fam ilies- O n stum ner n ights th e “ b o ard ers” sat on th e stoop. O n sum m er n ights th e careta k e rs o f the boarded-up o ld ho-uses g a v e the boarders d ir ty looks.

T h e social m igratio n uptow n w e n t on until th e region o f th e E a s t S ix tie s an d Seventies w as to becom e th e vei*y center o f N e w Y o r k ’s s o o a l d estin y . O ur p re-w ar p eriod o f m ost dazzling rea l esta te splendor h ad begun.

N ew p o rt w as s till a t its m ost gorgeous and fo rm al. M o re frenzied, m ore e x tra va g an t grew th e soc ia l p ace . U n precented fortu n es cam e po u rin g in to N e w Y o r k o u t o f th e W e s t . . O ld W ashin gton Sq u are N o rth , d in g in g 611 b y its ey e teeth to a square o f g ra ss an d o f trees, m a y still h a v e lab ored un der the delusion th a t i t w a s snubbing tliese denizens o f ex tra v a gance. B u t in tru th S o d e ty h a d g o tten out fro m under th e o ld K n ick erb o ck er d ictation o f ancestors an d trad ition . T h e n ew r ich in th is case, ra p id ly becom ing th e o ld rich (as is th e w a y w ith r ich es), w ere extirtvagan tly hew ing o u t a new s e t o f trad ition s.

T h e w h ite pa laces o f F ifth A v en u e th at seem ed b u ilt fo r etern ity (because forsooth a rch itectu a liy th ey deserved to be) te ll the sto ry o f th is b rief period o f im precedented splendor an d d im b ers an d frenzied finance.

Y e t b a re ly w ere tliese w h ite p a laces sa fe ly b u ilt u p F if th A ven u e, b efo re in d u stry began surgin g up again from th e south, offering m on ey fo r fro n t foo tage and y e t m ore m oney. A g a in th e cu rta in w a s due to go u p on the sam e old m elodram a. T h e houses on M an h attan cannot b e m ade to cost enough m oney, b u t th a t th e lan d th ey are b u ilt on ca n gobble them u p in a decade. A p a rtm en t houses fo r th e p atro n age o f th e likes 0 ’ V an d erb ilts an d A sto rs an d C a m eg ie s w ere dem anding the lan d on w hich V an derb ilts , an d A sto rs, and C arnegies h a d builded.

N o r does So cie ty re a lly need th e m agnificent houses a n y m ore th a t the b uild in g speculators are try in g so h ard to b u y fo r su ch a v e ry v a lu ab le consideration. £ 1 th is nonchalant p o st-w ar era th ere is little room fo r po m p and circum stance. S o d e ty is re a lly a b it fed up w U h its ow n gam e o f m agnificence, a n d w ould h on estly like to u n tie those m illions th a t are tied u p in its w hite R en a issan ce palaces.

boarded up a s th ey are an d guarded b y caretakers an d b u rg lary insurance.

B u t , fo r a ll th a t, w h a t is ou r m oneyed aristo cracy go in g to do abou t it? 'iS ie tw o- cen tiu y-lo n g m igration can no longer b e repeated . H a rle m an d H a rle m ’s progen y press d o se fro m th e north . T h e far-flun g hinterlane o f m id d le-d ass a p artm en t bouses, christened ,ike P u llm a n cars, b lock progress fo r m iles and m iles. T ru e M rs- W m . K . V an d erb ilt solved h er housing problem b y h er now -historic m ove to Su tton p la c e in i g z i . B u t Su tto n P la ce w ill care fo r o n ly a m ere h an d fu l. T h e postw a r b ackw ash in to old M u rra y H ill, w h ile it h as th row n pan ic in to the sou ls o f th e boarding-houses “ m issuses,” is tak in g care on ly o f individuals.

T h e rea l m ir a t io n o f th is decade w ill h ave to b e moEo rad ica l th a n a n y m ere tu rn in g back o f th e rea l estate d o c k . I t w ill tje th e d ram atic , fuU-iunged leap to th e g re a t expensive open spaces, w here s o d e ty is a lre ad y spending six o r e igh t m onths o f its y ea r.

A sudden an d sp ectacu lar rise in F ifth A v e n u e rea l estate v a lu e s h as b een th e event th a t h as g iv en th is gen eral ten den cy its final im petus. T h is rise in lan d valu es— in some cases a tw en ty-five per cent, rise, in others a f i ft y p e r cent,— cam e o v e r n ig h t la s t J im e , ■when th e C o u rt o f A p p e a ls settled th e litigatio n th a t b ad been h an gin g fire fo r fo u r y ea rs, b y ruling th a t F if th A v e n u e a b o ve F ifty - n in th S treet co u ld be b u ild ed one hundred and f i fty fe e t from pavem en t to cornice.

T h is is th e rea l iiE id c sto ry o f th e A stor announcem ent. V in cen t A sto r h ad been m o rally an d financial^ ', beh in d th e figh t to m a k e F if th A ven u e safe fro m apartm en ts. T h e litig a tio n h ad h ir^ c d on w hether the city- ow ned P a r k fro n t footage h ad a rig h t to its vo tes. T h a t is a long leg a l sto ry . Suffice it to s a y , th a t, th e m inute th e ru lin g w as handed dow n, V in cen t A sto r hurled dow n h is d ram atic annoim cem ent.

T h en ceforth then an d from n o w on an d fo re v e r an d a d a y — a t a n y ra te w h ile the present out-of-door sports o f s o d e ty s ta y fash ionable — N e w Y o r k soc iety w ill operate fro m a n out- o f-tow n base. U rb a n N e w Y o r k s o d e ty -will soon be w ith th e sm art se t o f N in eve h . T hose a p artm en t houses w ill rise on F if th A ven u e. C'est finis.

A n d y e t a hundred y e a rs hence F if th A v e n u e and th o se E a s t S ix tie s (w hich h av e solved th e ho'using sho rtage o f th e p lay-settin g as satis fac to rily a s W ad iin gto n S q u are th a t o f the m agazin e story) w ill ca rry the m a rk o f fa sh io n ’s footprints- F o r n eve r a stree t o f N ew Y o r k th a t has once kn ow n fash ion b u t is m arked in delib ly . O ne h ou se w ill lin gei on o u t o f the dead c e n tu ^ , grow ing som ber and sad as the unoccupied y e a r s roll o v e r it, p o ig n an tly w hispering the s to ry o f its by-gone dajcs o f fashion.

Corroded old b rass kn ockers dow n on C h erry S treet te ll y ea rn in g ly o f negro sla-ves w ith oran ge tu rb an s, d e ad th ese hundred and f ifty yea rs, w ho once po lish ed th ose knockers. T h e iro n balconies o f H e n ry S treet, m ade o ver in to second-hand fire-escapes, te ll louder than w ritten h isto ry o f gracio u s belles o f the ’ fifties.

W hen y o u an d I , too , a re dead an d gone to o u r m ansions— o r perchance b un grio w s— in h eaven , one R en m ssan ce F if th .Avenue p a la ce w ill linger- W ill lin g e r a s h av e lingered th ose other r d ic s o f by-gone N e w Y o rk . W ill lin ger b ecau se a p oor “ t i t le ” to th e deed has b een accu m ulated som ehow b y reason of m inor h eirs o r o f litiga tio n . W ill lin ger shopw orn upon th e rea l estate counter. W ill linger on to t ^ the sto ry o f the g ra n d e iu o f th e early lim ousine period , ju s t before F ifth A ven u e fell before th e lustoric B ack -T o-T h e-D o g K en n e ls M ovem en t.

The director of our School and Camp Department has requested us la put a lUlle note right here saying lhal as you are going to send your children to a summer camp now is the time to select that camp. H e’ll help you select it i f you wish. Write to M r. Chambers, care of Harper’s Bazar.


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 187

Exqwijice Antra Srettiart, p o s id in a double Pon* eiacStrflin silver fox neckpiece^

Jm>4 i fms ffwnedmT h e fascin acin g story o f silver fo x a a d th e facts th at Nvill help y o u d eterm in e tb e fin en ess o f pelts sh o w n y o u a re g iven in tb e fre e b o o k le t, " T h e F u r In co m p a rab le ," a co p y o f w h ic h w e w ill b e p leased co m a il o n req uest.

D e t r o i t S i l v e r F o x F a r m s

T h t P ontioc S tra in O rgo n itatio n G e n e ral M oto rs B Id g ,, D e tro it, U . S . A-

Fifteen Ranches an d Producing U nits

VONTIACM rm m F U R S

H a v e Y o u Triad O u r M a r v e lo u s N e w W a te r p r o o f

LIQUIDM A Y B E L L I N EW e h av e a t la st succeeded in fo rm u latin g an eye lash an d ey e b ro w d arkcn er th a t is absolu te ly w aterp ro o f. I t m akes th e eyelashes appear n a tu ra lly d a rk , long an d luxurian t. T h o u gh y o u m a y w eep o r be cau g h t in the ra in i f p o s if ;V e / y w i l l n o t r u n , s m e a r o r b e a fl'ecfa< f i n a n y w a y , y e f i t ia p e r f a c t ly h a r m ie s s . I f y o u r d ealer has n o t a lread ystocked o u r new " L I Q U I D M A Y B E L L I N E ” a sk him to get it fo r y o u , or i f y o u desire we w ill send postp a id upon receip t o f price. A ccep t o n ly genuine " M A Y B E L L I N E ” and y o u r satisfactio n ia assured.

" L I Q U I D M A Y B E L L I N E " i n b ottle— 7Sc So lid form **M A Y B E L L I N E ’ * in box— 75c E ith e r form m a y be h ad in B la c k or B ro w n .

M A Y B E L L I N E C O ., 4750 Sh erid an R d . C h icago.

Liifuid Form

Bon Ton ^ound-U S r y le ^ i j— $5.00

Bon T on SMysleria B ick Lace Style 50 58 *“ ^5.00

Cutting Your ^irthday on Your Back

is true, M adam e, w om en put their birthdays o n their backs when they becom e careless about their figures. T h e n they com e to m e and exp ed a miracle o f dressm aking— 'that I shall m ake straight lin -s o f rounding curves.

" W i t h the right corset, yes! W ith o u t it, positively n o ! For on e cannot be corred ly gow ned unless one is first corred ly corseted.”

Y o u r dressmaker is right. T rue fashion foundation depends upon corred ly fitted corsets.

A n d she knows there is a B on T o n corset or brassiere fo r every need o f the hum an figure— m odels scientifically designed to put the pounds in their place and prevent straight lines firom curving prematurely.

For th e lovely Easter firock you cannot be satisfied w ith ju st any corset. Insist upon a B on T o n fitting fo r a corset o f undeniable com fort— on e that will n ot fail to give you proper support and line in the right place.

O f parcicu lar interest to a ll w o m en p la n n in g th e ir S p r in g an d S u m m e r w ard rob e is th e exception al o ffe r in g o f B o ti T o n F IV E D O L L A R corsets n o w b e in g sh o w n b y lea d in g d ep artm en t stores a n d spec ialty sh o p s. T h e se are a q u a lity corset o f fin est m ateria ls a n d w orkm an sh ip th a t w ill o u th o ld th e ir sh a p e a n d o u tw ear fa r m o re expen sive m o dels.

T h e re is a B o n T o n d ealer in y o u r to w n . A s k to b e sh o w n th is u n u su a l corset va lu e a t $ 3 .0 0 .

Send fijT clever slyle bcokUt vrilten by ona e f the foremost fashion authorities o f she day-

R O Y A L W O R C E S T E R C O R S E T C O M P A N Y

NEW YORK CHICAGO W O R C E S T E R SAN FRANQSCO

There is a B o n T o n 2M odel fo r €rery Figure

Solid FormAVERAGE

F o r y o u t o e n j o y w h e r e v e r y o u g o — B e a u t y ’ s g r e a t c o m p a n i o n s —y o u r f a v o r i t e l o o s e b o u d o i r p o W d e r a n d y o u r

See! Y ou can carry you r N orida Vfinitie in a n y p os ition —even h old it upside d o w n —and th e pow d er ca n n ot spill. A patented feature d oes it. T h ere isn’ t another vanitie in the w orld lik e it.

I t ’ s S o E a s y to R e fillin a few seconds w ith you r fivorite loosepotvder—w h v u seca k e po\vder any lo n g e r ! O btain a N orid .i V an itie at a n y toilet g ood s cou nter. T h e price is $ 1 .5 0 — com es filled with FleurSauvage; W ild flow erjP ou dre , a fragrant F rench P ow d er, in any shade y o u want.

I f yo «r d e a le r cannot supply you,send $ 1 .5 0 direct co

6 3 0 S . W ab ash A v e ,, C H I C A G O . I L L .


188 U A R P E R ' S B A Z A R

Now a new way toRemove Cold Cream

T T 'O R y e a rs s ta g e stars h a v e k n o w n -t- th is s e c re t o f c le a r , ra d ia n t c o m p le x io n s . I t is p a r t o f th e ir s to c k - in - tr a d e . W h o e v e r s a w a n a ctress w h o s e s k in h a d in fe c t io n s , b la c k h e a d s , p im p le s ? Y e t a ctresses m ake-up se v e ra l t im e s a d a y . T h e ir sk in is c o n s t a n t ly e x p o s e d t o h a rd u se— y e t re m a in s ch a rm in g .

N o w y o u , t o o , m a y k n o w th is s e c re t o f fa m o u s s ta g e b e a u tie s . I t is s im p ly th e u se o f K le e n e x in r e m o v in g c o ld c r e a m a n d co sm e tics e a c h n ig h t . T h is s o ft v e lv e t y a b s o r b e n t is m a d e o f C e llu c o t t o n .

T o w e ls o f t e n ca u se in fe c t io n s ; t h e y are e x p e n s iv e . K le e n e x , a t a ll d r u g a n d d e p a r tm e n t s to re s , co s ts b u t 2 5 c . A b o x c o n ta in s a b o u t 200 sheets (s iz e 6 b y 7 in .) a n d lasts a b o u t a m o n th . U s e i t o n c e , th r o w it a w a y . I t ’ s c h e a p e r , b e tte r , sa fer . B e a u t y e x p e r ts a d v is e its use.

T o d a y g e t a b o x o f K le e n e x a n d fin d o u t w h y i t ’ s s o p o p u la r .

C e l l u c o t t o n 'P r o d c c t s C o . , 166 West Jackson Boulevard, Chicago

K i e e N e x

TJhe S a n it a iy C o ld C re a m R.em ooer

Y ICISSITUDE is one thing at least that the theater holds in common with life, and so the scheme of entertainment

fluctuates. The French man of letters who refreshed his soul with the epigraph

D iversiU , c ’est m a devise

must have learned his little creed of variation in the orchestra chairs. In New York Eugene O’Neill sounds his mournful dirges in a playhouse hard by Ed Wynn’s foolish headquarters, and Mr. Shaw’s cosmic observations are to be heard next door to a genre comedy called “ Pigs.” Congreve’s “ Way of the World” and Gilbert and Sulli\-an’s "Patience” are within a stone’s throw of the Russian “ Chauve Souris.” The surly scenes of melodrama, “ where rant and bloodshed join,” are neighbors to the lollipops and caramels. At one time this year Longacre Square and its environs contained plays from the Hindu, tho German, the Austrian, the Muscovite, the Hungarian, the English, the French, the Negro, the Italian, the American, and the Seven Seas, “ Seneca cannot be too heavy, nor Plautus too light.”

Mr . H. M. HARWOOD, a distinguished London dramatist, has just proclaimed

that the past fifteen years represent the

richest period theatrically since the Elizabethans. He includes, no doubt, the .American effort in that enthusiastic devoir, since the drama of both countries is so closely affiliated. Therefore it is not impudent, in a reflection over Mr. Harwood’s remark, to think how abundant the art in this land has been since igio. If not “ rich" it certainly has been extravagant. All the operas of Gilbert and Sullivan could have been produced with an expenditure less than that of a single version of tho Music Box Revue, and it is suspected that any of the works of Samuel Shipman or Avery Hopwood cost the public more than “ The Rivals” or “ The School for Scandal.”

It has been the gilt age of the theater. It has produced tons of tragedy, comedy, history, pastoral, pastoral-comic.-^, and historical- pastoral. .And its chief events have been “ Abie’s Irish Rose” and “ What Price Glory,” if “ Rain” be excepted as half-English. In the circumstances I ask Mr. Harwood and others who pretend to take the theater seriously, if it is wise to speak of it save in terms of bewilderment.

Mr. rianvood’s optimistic survey inspires one to take a vague inventory of the fifteen years’ achievements on the American stage. What have they produced in the way of acting and the drama? Miss Lauretfe Taylor

{C ontinued on page iq o )

Alfred Lunt and LyntiFonlanne in the Theater Cuild's production of “ The Guardsman.”

Louis and Wiliiam Boyd in what is stil!the outstanding play of the season, “ What Price Glory.”

A T H E A T R I C A L P E R S P E C T I V E ,

Over F i f t e en Crowded Years

B y P E R C Y H A M M O N D


G R AY HAIR b a n is h e d in 15 m in u ies wifh

f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 1S9

I N E C T O R A P I D N O T O Xc r e a t e d b y s c ie n c e e x p re s s ly f o r c o lo r in g th e se n s it iv e o r g a n is m o f h u m a n h a ir is s p e c if ic a lly g u a ra n te e d t o reclaim perm anently the original color o f naturally gray, streaked or faded hair. I t m ay be had in 18 shades, from radiant blonde to raven black; and even under the closest scrutiny its application ca n n o t be detected. It will neither rub off nor be affected by shampooing, curling, salt water, perspiration, sunshine. Turkish or Russian Baths. It •will n ot affect permanent waving— and permanent waving does not affect IN E C T O R A P ID N O T O X . Contains n o paraphenylene diamine.

Beware o f imitations— look for N O T O X on the package. It is your protection.

SE N D NO M O N E Y Merely ask us to send you hill particulars about INECTO RAPID NOTOX and our Beauty Analysis Chart J. 3A

IN E C T O . INC.L a b o ra to r ie s a n d S a lon s, 33 -3 5 V /e s t 4 6 tb S treet

N e w Y o r k , N . Y .H A R O L D F . R I T C H I E i C O .

I I I M a d is o n A v e .. N . Y .Sales RcpteseMcUoei

Sold itj Best Beauli/ Shops.Druj and Deperiment Siom

A D O R ACovers your BobA C C O R D I N G t o Q yJ- your m ood you can be gaily bobbed \vhen you wish — or cover the b ob with “ A D O R A ” and have the dignity o f a fo rm a l coiffure in any style. It is certain to stay fast and has all the charm o f a Parme creation.

I f y o u ate seek in g the perfect t r a n s fo r m a tio n , remember that Parme has d e v e l o p e d t h e ar c o f m o u l d i n g to the h ead , face and personality.

Booklet on Request 18 W e.st 5 7 th Street

N e w Y o r k C i t y

/^ V E R Y h o m e ow n er en- L 3 thuses over the beauty o f S L Y K E R Radiator Furniture. But attractiveness is only one admired feature. It also prevents the costly so ilin g o f delicate draperies and walls, and keeps heated ait m oist, comfortable, healthful. A patented humidifier undertop serves this double purpose. Y ou r radiators are entirely concealed in artistic cabinets, without loss o f heating efficiency.

M ade en tirely o f Furniture Steel, finished in six coats o f o il enam el, baked on . Y o u bave choice o f three styles. Cane Grille is pictured. Finishes in shades o f M ahogany, W aln u t, Ivory or W hite— to harmonize with your room decorations. Converts radiators into useful seats or consoles. W rite us for name o f nearest dealer where samples m ay be seen. W e w ill send you descriptive b ook in colors upon request.

S C H L E I C H E R , Lac. (Dept,A-5) G A R Y , I N D I A N A

H and w eaving is far from a lost art with' us at the B iltm ore Industries, w here fine woolen cloths have been w oven strictly by hand for nearly 2 5 years w ithout interruption. T h ey alw ays have been w oven on hand loom s, )uilt in our ow n shops, by native men—

a number o f whom are deaf mutes.

Biltm ore IndustriesGrove Park Inn Asheville. N . C .

P E A R L A T A T I M E

NECKLACES'

iRealOrientaltPearls ~

L e t h e r g i f t d a y s b e A n n i v e rsa ry P e a r l A t A T im e N e c k la c e d a y s — d a y s re fle c tin g h a p p i n e s s — c t ie r i s h e d m e m o r i e s — t h o u g h t s o f p le a sa n t t im e s . E a ch p e a r l a r e m iitd e r o f s o m e d e a r re la t i v e - s o m e tr u e f r ie n d .

A n n i v e r s a r y N e c k la c e s w i l l pass d o w n th e b y -w a y s o f t h e fu t u r e g en era tion sqrs a v a lu e d , h is t o r y m a k in g , fa m ily h e i r lo o m — a m o s t c h e r is h e d p o s s e s s io n . T h e y a r e r e a l p e a r ls — m a tc h e d in size, s h a p e a n d c o l o r — res p le n d e n t in th e ir p u r ity a n d lu s tr o u s beaut> ’ . T h e c h o ic e s t g ift f o r th e b a b y g irl — th e b r id e — th e d e b u h in te — th e w i f e — t h e m o th e r .

T h e P e a r ls f o r A n n iv e r sa ry N e c k la c e s a re p r o c u r e d in d iv id u a lly b y n a t iv e d iv e rs f r o m th e d e p th s o f th e O r i e n ta l seas— e a c h w 'ith a “ d e e p sea” o r ig in . T h e n a m e A n n i v e rsa ry is y o u r s a fe g u a rd o f g e n u in e n e s s .

Sold at First Class Jcn’ck-rs from SS toS 60 and up. VV'rftc fo r B o o k ‘le i — " T h e Q ifi that Becomes an Heirloom ."

M a y b a u m B r o s .Tearl Importers

2 W e s t 4 7 t h S t. R o o m 906

N e w Y o r k

1 P E A R L S . SS .O O

•A.,

g P E A R L S , $ 1 5 . 0 0

3 L A R G C . $ 2 5 - 0 0



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Youwhoareintrigued by the glorious iridescence o f the oriental pearl will be equally fascinated by the Perleretteflacon. For it emulates an enormous pearl—exquisite in a setting o f black velvet.And vieing with its rare and novel beauty is the Perlerette odeur,— newest o f Volnay’s master creations. It is truly entrancing—undefinably subtle — unforgettably charming.

and Miss Ethel Barrymore came to M l flower in plays that wore sometimes successful and sometimes Rood, but it was rather a time of famine for Mrs. Fiske, Miss Blanche Bates, Miss Mary Nash, and Miss Billie Burke. It developed a promise in Miss Ina Claire, Miss Jane Cowl, and Miss Katherine Cornell, and it has brought to the threshold a number of otlier young women of talent—Miss Jeanne Eagels, Miss Phyllis Povah, MissHelen Menken, Miss Helen Hayes, Miss Pauline Lord, Miss Juliette Crosby, Miss Regina Wallace. But it has witnessed the passing of Miss Maude Adams, Miss Marie Doro, Nazimova, Miss Margaret lUington, Miss Hilda Spong, and Miss Charlotte Walker. From its so- called richness it has given little to Miss Anglin, Miss Elsie Ferguon, Miss Florence Reed, and Miss M.irjorie Rambeau. They

Other Volnay.exfrarr ate: Y apana

X X 'T a r / u m d tG{toritHe'T)6niat

Chprr Pipuvtau G ri-G ri Z iv jb rt de Sifitn

In extract, toilette water, tak and face powder

Obiaiiiahle m ty in ihe b im n b o p i

V olnay, Inc.,! A m erican Ofpceji

565 FifthAvenue, N ew Y ork City

Laura Hope Crews lends her delicate and delightful comedy to “ Ariadne,” Ihe new Miliie play the Theater Guild is producing.

Paidiue Lord has even surpassed her''Anna Christie” in her rule in Sydney Howard’s “ They Knew What They Wanted,” produced by the Theater Guild.

A T H E A T R I C A L P E R S P E C T I V EP e r c y H a m m o n d ’ s A r t i c l e

{Continued from page iSS)

have played and they are playing, but not Importantly.

'T 'H E men actors have not fared much belter.Walter Hampden and Jolln Barrymore

have edged Mr. Sothem and Mr. Mautcll aside in the plays of Him of Avon. Arthur Byron’s fifteen years have been neither fertile nor barren, and the accomplishments of Henry Miller, Lionel Barrymore, Otis Skinner, John Drew, and William Faversham can not l)c called “ rich” in the best sense of the word. Mr. Lackaye, Arnold Daly, Frtuik Keenan, and ilr . Cohan have been waste, and so has David Warfield, except as Shylock, the work of an Elizabethan. William Collier, the ablest of the satiric actors, has had nothing to do. The most eminent of the “ stars" brought

{Continued on page iga)

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j o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5

Her Diary

191

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SHOECRAFTPitting the

I*JatTow Heel<Sizcsl to 1 0 A A A A to E

714 FIFTH AVENUEBettyecn 55tK and 56th Si?-

N E W Y O R K

E N S E M B L E SC O A T SF R O C K SG O W N SB L O U S E SL IN G E R IEM I L L IN E R Y

Spring Fashionsfor Stout W om en

S le n d e r iz in g in te rp re ta t io n s o f th e cu r r e n t v o g u e s b y L a n e B r y a n t p r o v id e u n lim ite d m o d e ls o f a ll th e la t es t fa s h io n s f o r w o m e n w h o are s to u t o r in c lin e d t o s to u t ness . S iz e 38 t o 56.

I f unable lo visit any o f our stores,write to Dept. 0 2 fo r new Style Hook

i| m c 3 r ^ o n t26 W. 39th St., 21 W. 38th St., New York

Hanover Place, nr. Fulton St., B'klyn C H IC A G O D E T R O IT

101 N. Wab&»h Ave. H 52 FarmcT St.

Are Y ou Sure Y ouV e Never Seen a G ood Transformation?M •\NY a woman has told us that she has never seen a

transformation which was not obviously false.

W e know that she has seen many poor ones. But we suspect too, that when she has seen a good transformation, she has taken it to be just a lovely coiffure arranged with the wearer’ s own hair. For the ideal transformation, especially as made by Pierre, is so perfect as to be absolutely undetectable.

Pierre Transformations are made of the finest naturally wavy hair. Come in and examine them.

I 28UlAAJL.

28 West 57th Street New York

The Foster “SABOT”for Afternoon

A FOSTER origination idealized from “ le sabot” —the wooden shoe o f

the French peasants.

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192 II A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R f o r

W hen 5 ,000,000 Womenturn to a new way in personal hygiene, surely you owe it to yourself, at least to try that way

By ELLEN ]. B U CK LAN D , Qraduate Nurse

I f y o u b e lie v e th e t e s t im o n y o f f iv e m illio n A m e r ic a n w o m e n , y o u t o o w ill w a n t t o k n o w a b o u t th is n e w w a y in p e r so n a l h y g ie n e . A t le a s t w ill w a n t t o t r y it , f o r y o u r s e lf .

T o d a y c o u n t le s s th o u sa n d s o f w o m e n are le a rn in g fo r th e first t im e , w h a t th e s e m illio n s k n o w . E v e r y w h e r e , t h e y are f in d in g n e w p e r so n a l im m a c u la c y , n e w fr e e d o m , r e l ie f f r o m e m b a rra s s m e n t . T o d a y th is a m a z in g n e w w a y has b e e n a d o p te d b y 8 in l o w o m e n in th e b e t te r

w a lk s o f life .

T h is n e w w a y is Iv o te x , a n d d o c to r s , n urses e v e r y w h e r e a d v ise its u se . I t is S c ie n c e ’ s s o lu t io n o f w o m a n ’ s o ld e s t p r o b le m , su p p la n t in g th e o ld - fa s h io n e d s a n ita r y n a p k in a n d o th e r d a n g e ro u s m a k e s h ift

m e th o d s .

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Helen Hayes, who has been playing in ‘ ‘ Qiiar- auline,” is lo have the rdla of the skylarking Cleopatra in the Theater Guild’s Shaw revival.

A T H E A T R I C A L P E R S P E C T I V EP e r c y I I a m m o n d ' s A r t i c l e

{Continued from page 190)

out hy the period, I suspect, is Lowell Sherman, and his contributions have not been large. That prospering fellow, William T. Hodge, the people’s actor, lliough a busy artist, has been somewhat niggardly in his gifts and the same may be said of Louis Mann, Mr, Arliss lias confined himself successfully to plays by his own countrymen.

The activities of the playwrights may have been more fecund, I have a meager memory and I do not recall any of the wonderpieces of Mr- Harwood’s fifteen years. Numerous men and women have been breeding dramas far us and a list of their names suggests that a lot of good should have come from their labors.

So far as I can remember the best these authors have done to justify Mr. l-Iarwood’s halleluiahs is contained in the following small and, of course, unsatisfactory catalogue:

•'They Knew What Tlicy Wanted” “ Close Harmony’ '“ Minick”“ The Show Off”“ Merton of tlie Alo'dcs”“ Tarnish”“ The Goose Hangs Higli” “ Detour”'Tcehouud”“ The Adding Machine”“ Tea for Tliree”"The Boomerang”“ Rain”

“ Seven Keys to Baldpate” "Dulcy”"Beggar on Horseback” “ Desire Under the Elms” “ The First Year”

I find myself suspecting that some of Montague Glass’s I’otash and Perlmuttcr opera should be included, they were so rich in character and humor; but as plays they were slipshod. Mr. Pollock's “ The Fool” was a sincere and eloquent hot-gospeler, enriching us emotionally rather than esthelically. .And Winchell Smith’s Mother Goose melodies were just sedative soothing sirups. Augustus Thomas and Clyde Fitch did not do nnich in the fifteen years lo make them v.aluable. {Concluded on page 194)

Horace Braham and Katherine Reviier in “ Tke Rat.”


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5193

In c^ie p o t tT A h n&oi% d a i r e W i n d s o r o f M e tr o Q o W u m P tc fu res i s s e e n j o y f u l l y u s i n g

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phire and the becoming green called “ Pauterelle, ” to sell for

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T h e O iifll C tcstiryi in r h e c e n t e r o f th e o p e n b o o k ) ia d e l i g h t f u l l y s h a p e d . B la c k e n a m e l a n d g o l d p la c e d . A n I n s id e 3*lew Is h e r e p h o c o g r a p h e d - N o t c c h a t in a d d i t i o n r o t h e u s u a l T e r r i le a tu c e s t h e r e is a c o m p a r t m e n t f o r c ig a r e t t e s , k e y s a n d c o i n s . A l s o a c l e v e r l y c o n c e a l e d c o m b . T h e p r i c e is $ 7 .5 0 .

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T h e g r e e n a n d g o ld c o n t a in e r — a g o r g e o u s p ie c e o f c o l o r — is a n in n o v a t i o n in p o w d e r b o x e s . S l ig h t ly c u r v e d , i t ju s t f its t h e h a n d , w h i le t h e n e w p a te n t , s i f t in g t o p p r e v e n ts e v a p o r a t io n o f t h e fr a g r a n c e o r s p il l in g o f th e p o w d e r . F o r sale a t best dealers everywhere.

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Fiorenre VaHdammGertrude Bryan in “ The W ay of the World."

A T H E A T R I C A L P E R S P E C T I V EIC o n du ded fr o m page too)

■ p U T th e n ext fifteen y e a rs ! T herein , M r. 4A H arw ood, i f yo u a rc as yo u n g a s y o u seem to be, y o u m a y find treasure- San e and honest theatergoers a re jo in in g w ilh the counterfeit poseurs to form an audience th at w ill in sp ire and support a n ad u lt dram a. T h ere are a dozen new p layw righ ts in .\m cr- ica who kn o w som ething abou t life a s w ell o-s the th eater, an d who a re proud enough to w an t to com bine them in a n in te lligen t w ay. V ou n g actors a re a t hand, hundreds o f them , w ho can act, n o t m erely “ show o ff.” W hereas m ost o f th e p lay in g o f the p a st fifteen yeare has been la rg e ly affectation, in the n ex t it will ])e im personation i f n o t characterization . F o r a w hile a t least, such a liv e an d occasion ally understanding producers a s the T h e ater G uild , the I’ rovin cctow n group, (iilb crt M ille r , W iiU hrop .Ames an d others

w ill help to m ake the tim e re la tive ly m illennial. So rainbow is th e prositect th a t I shouldn’ t b e surprised i f the ensuing fifteen y e a rs discovered an A m erican d ram atic critic.

T h e new age begins im puden tly . I t com m its a ll sorts uf adciescont in is b ^ a v io r s and pooh-poohs circum spection. I t illu slrg tc s w ith fran kn ess m o st o f th e fra ilties o f th e hum an race, sm oking, drinking, chewing, sw earing an d keepin g la te hours. I t lives, a s the say in g goes, its ow n life . W ords a re spoken in the new d ram as th a t cause th e police to b e called o u t. D eeds are done th a t a ffright those p layg o ers w ho arc carn ally w hite-livered- B u t i l is youn g, candid , com p a ra t iv e ly honest, an d its m anners w ill im pro ve w ith the passin g o f th e w ild -o ats season. .At a n y r a te i t is no longer th e path etic little “ C in derella o f the arts.”

M a u r i c e O o U b e r g

Odette Myrtil in "T h e Low Song" al the Century.


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5m

HARPER'S B A ZAR by arrangement with the publishers of IN T E R N A T IO N A L STUDIO makes this i n t e r e s t i n g combination offer—

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196

F R E - J U R

E K S "/7e luas glad hed forgotten to return it-^Lts LoVcLy scent brought memory o f her charm

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A M O D E R N F O L L O W E R O F A N A N C I E N T C R A F T

B y L I D A R O S E M c C A B E


T O BIND a favorite book with one’s own hands was the fad which dosed a century that had seen many a faddish bit of

handwork, from footwear to wax flowers. The Engliid ot William Morris was undoubtedly responsible for this luxuriant by-product of the art-craft movement that swept America in the late nineties and early nineteen hundreds.

Of the butterflies that fluttered to Alfred Schleuning’s bookbindery in Old Chelsea to coquette there with the ancient craft, scarcely a baker’s dozen saw the first volume tlmor^h. For Schleuning—oflspring of generations of German bookbinders—was a hard taskmaster. It is not a light diversion to stand on one’s feet or sit at a work bench from eight-thirty until six. One by one the bevy faded away, leaving Marguerite Duprez Lahey the sole survivor.

How the gifted American girl persevered to be acdaimSi, after twenty-two years, the finest bookbinder in America and one of the world’s greatest, is a story connected with the assemblii^ of the J. Pierpont Morgan Collection, which was presented recently to the City of New York as a public reference library and a memorial to its founder by his son, who has brought it to its present perfection.

Marguerite Lahey has six hundred edition de luxe bindings credited to her in the Morgan Library catalogue, besides numerous soland- ers, or design^ and tooled leather cases to hold priceless manuscripts. In each sumptuous binding is tooled her signature, after the manner of the immortal Grolier and kindred masters of the art.

Supplementing this major work are artides of her design and execution for the personal desk of the late Mr. Pierpont Morgan in his private room of the library—a blotting book, a box for stationery, and a telephone directory, America’s one contribution to desk essentials, a guest book for autograph signatures of notable visitors, and, last but not least, six blind-tooled morocco bindings for the voluminous deed transferring the library to the dty. The deed volumes are gifts, one to each of the library’s six trustees: Mr. and Mrs. J. Pierpont Morgan, their sons, Jtmius Spencer Morgan and Henry Sturges Morgan, Lewis Cass Ledyard and James Gore-King.

Few, even among connoisseurs, realize the labor and skill that go to the making of one fine binding. About eighty processes are involved. In Paris, to which the art was brought from Venice by Grolier in the reign of Charles I., it is highly specialized, countless experts contributing to tho finishird whole. Aliss Lahey is master of every step, and does a

fine binding from start to fiiush without an assistant.

As a child she always wanted to use her hands, and it -was to bind her own books ,slie took up the hobby. To this day, her books— save a dozen for exhibition purposes—remain unbound, for, like tlie proverbial shoemaker, she never has timcl

For ten years she worked hard and unceasingly at home in America and during the summers at the benches of Paris master binders and gilders. Then the late Mr. Morgan saw a volume she had bound for herself and finished at the work bench of M, Jules Dumont, France’s master finisher. Mr. Morgan had an edition de luxe of the same work—it was Frederick Masson’s “ Napoleon and his Women” —in his library room reserved to French books. He commissioned Miss Lahey to make a duplicate binding of her copy for him. It was the turning point of a unique career, for shortly after ^ e bound the famous Morgan Caxton, the Histories of Troy, 1472, the first book printed in English and this the only known perfect copy. For sixteen years now she has worked for the Morgan library, the son royally continuing the father’s patronage,

No court beauty or society queen’s jewel box is comparable in intrinsic value with Miss Lahey’s workshop safe. Unobserved in her fascinating skyscraper atelier it stands, flanked by fifteenth-century hand machines and racks glistening with lacc-iike tools, for each design requires special tools made by a master Paris toolmaker.

Few of the Morgan Library treasures have escaped the safe’s enclosure pending the making of their matchless binding. Not infrequently—notably during the war—Aliss Lahey crossed the Atlantic with a volume worth a king’s ransom (when kings counted) done up in a shawl-stiap. To bed and to the captain’s table it went, often given precedence over a life preserver so great her solicitude for its safety. Insurance ot fifty to one hundred thousand dollars covered not a few edition de lu.xe outings to the Paris ateliers where space was tented in accordance with her need. This custom of years continues, for with America’s growing taste for fine bindings, hers is a widening clientele among collectors and laymen.

Women in increasing numbers are going in for fine bindings. 'Ihe late Mrs. George Dupont Pratt remains America’s most notable woman collector of fine bindings. More than three hundred of her editions de luxe, bear Marguerite Lahey’s signature.

I

Four superb examples o f Miss Lahey's skill. A volume of “ Hamlcl” otoned by M r. A . Edward Newton; the Gutenberg Bible, the property of M r. Frank B. Bemis; and two early illuminated manuscripts bound fo r M r. J. P . Morgan.


[ o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 197

I

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M yriads o f O P A L H U E S so fine they are invisible—but under the powerful glass o f the spectrum they leap into flaming beauty. One w ho is familiar w ith the action o f light rays on colors will readily see w hy Peter Pan O P A L H U E Pow der so m arvelously films the skin w ith a new glow o f prism atic beauty. This protective beauty film gives one full assurance o f perfect appearance in any light—bright light, soft light, spot light or sun light.

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The three-strap shoe wilh modified high heel, made in tan calfskin with perforations, is smart for trotleur w ar. From Saks— Fifth Avemie.

T H E N E W E S T S H O E S F R O M N E W Y O R K A N D P A R I S

Paris sends this exaggeration of the patent Colonial pump, w tk high longue and cmnpo.tilion b u c k le .

(Above) TanRussian ca lf and lizard skin. One strap, and the new “ spike” heel. Saks— Fifth Avenue.

On a “ bois de rase” satin evening pump is a beautifully shaped buckle of brilliants. Saks— Fifth Avenue.

(Left) The one-strap slipper of black satin fo r dinner and afternoon wear. Saks— Fifth Avenue.

(Right) Brick-ro.se satin, wilh a very high spike keel, and inset with gold embroidery. From Paris.

(Left) Colored kid and moire. The liny buckle and kid bow are new and smart. From Saks— Fifth Avenue.

The two brocaded metal shoes shown at the right are rather extreme models from a Paris designer.

Tiny enameled buckles in color for the spring patent, leather opera pump. Soks—FiflhAveniie. I

i

(Left) Red atui gold brocade Perugia shoe, from Saks— Fifth Avenue. (Above) A new French brocade slipper with a very high gold keel.


J o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 199

I

I

f f f e x t IhConth. . . .

The T R A V E L NUMBER o f H A R P E R ’ S B A Z A R

De v o t e d primarily to the sort of clothes one should wear traveling . . .

on anything from a week-end trip to a world’s end journey. With, of course, due regard given to the costumes one should wear after one gets where one’s going . . . that sounds a little Involved but we know you understand what we mean.

O n Sale at A ll G ood N ew sstands on M a y is t .

H a r p e r ’s B a ^ a r2j<- l-D N D O M ffAH IS

The Last Wordin Paris is the first thought inH iew T o A

French Bootery is privileged to present the most advanced Spring Models in fash ' ionable footwear

They're here!Or send }or booklet describing them

36 W . 50th St.,N.Y.

How to Avoid Rings” in Removing Grease Spots

I. Place a clean cloth or blotter under the Grease Spot. (Th/s /s io carry away the Qrease as it runs through the fabric after it is dissolved by the Carbona.)Saturate a clean cloth with Carbona. using it freely, and gentlyrub the Grease Spot b a c k and

2 .

for th wila sweeping motion as illustrated— never rub in circles. Raise your hand at the end of each stroke after passing the edge of the spot. (This blends the edges o f the spot cleaned with the rest o f the fabric and prevents al€ • \ring .)

3. Rub gently as it is the Carbona that cleans, not the rubbing.f t « r S a f a t y V S a k e - d e m a n d

V K B U R N A B I . © **

C leaning FluidR emoves Grease Spo tsWilhout Injury lo Fabric or Color

B«lllc«At<dlDn4SM

Make Your EYES Your Best FeatureC lear, b righ t, v iv a c io u s E Y E S a d d m ore rea l b e a u ty t o th e face th a n a n y o th e r feature. O f w h a t a v a il are p ea r ly te e th and a flow erlik e sk in i f y o u r E Y E S are d u ll a n d life less?

D a ily cleansing w i t h M u r in e w il l h e lp m ake y o u r E Y E S y o u r m o s t a ttra ctiv e feature, I t keeps th em free fr o m irrita tin g part i c l e s — e n c o u r a g e s a c l e a r , b righ t, h ea lth y con d it io n . T h is refreshing, in v ig ora tin g lo t io n con ta in s n o be lla d on n a or o th e r harm fu l ingredients.Our jllustrascd hooka on **Bye Core** or Beout>" arc FBMB on retjucsC*

The Murine Company D ep (. 24, Chicago

F'o r V o iJ'*

E .V E S



Thus does Paris

make her greatest

successes m

spring footwear.

For the combination

o f two leathers—

frequently

one o f them

is lizard—

in a single slipper

is the surest

way

to smartness.

Every Sommers Shoe

is designed

to make the foot

look smaller

T H E L O S S

B y H O L L O W A Y H O R N

? I VHIS episode is as old as Adam, since, ifI the truth were known, the notorious ap-

pie-biting episode was probably due more to Eve’s being bored with the Garden (and Adam) than to any innate naughtiness in that unfortunate and much-maligned lady.

Tlie Adam in this modem comedy was very worthy, very successful, very dull. Every one respected Peter Wetherby—even Eve. This latter part was in the carefully manicured hands of Gwen Wetherby, his wife.

The third character—it would be. rude to call him the Serpent, so perhaps it would be fairer to refer to him as tire Apple, although there is no direct evidence that he was bitten— the third character, I say, was played very well indeed by Mr. Russell Halliday. At least, up to the point when he missed a cue rather badiy . . .

The affair had been ripening for some little time. Gwen was “ misunderstood”—you know, of course, what I mean—and a lady who is misunderstood usually manages to make things pretty awkward all round. Russell Halliday was sympathetic. He was the incorrigible bachelor into whose ears every pretty, married, and misunderstood lady was able to pour her woes and be certain of finding understanding.

There were emotional dinners in discreet little restaurants where they were not likely to meet Peter or his frienii. There was an a lm o spk n e in such places,'pink shades and mild wickedness, which was in keeping with the silly game they were playing. Probably, at opportune moments, he held her hand, and sighed. Certainly he was good at sighing; bachelors of forty very often are!

Naturally he told Eve he was in love, as he had told other and ec[ualiy misunderstood ladies. But—and this is the joke, the fly in the amber—he was beginning really to think that he was in love.

T TNDER normal conditions he would have been safe, even then—no man in London

was mote expert than he in skating over thin ice. But he knew that he must be very careful because even a bachelor of his mature years is never quite secure when the emotions are affected.

It went very much against the grain but, alter thinking the whole thing out carefully, he made up his mind to break it off. He was very mad indeed with himself for falling in love; it made everything so difficult. But she would understand, he was certain, for he was rather good at suggesting a sadness which would tinge the rest of his life, and gradually crystallize into a pale mauve memory. In a quiet and slightly husky tone he would talk of what might have been had they but met . . . before, tell her that she would always be his ideal . . . all the usual gup.

Experience told him that she would probably dab her dark eyes with a dainty cambric handkerchief (not the ordinary hanky but one of those special fluffy ones wtuch are provided for these occasions), sniff, and say she supposed it was the only way.

Then, of course, the farewell kiss, long and lingering, during which she would close her eyes. The whole affair would be in excellent taste and according to well-established precedent. A week or so later he would meet some other iady, equally misunderstood, and start again at the beginning.

In spite of his tolm anticipation, however, the affair was oot so easily to be fitted into a type.

Their last night came and they sat lacing one another across the shaded table. She was very beautilul. Her eyes, as he had often told

her, were the color of forget-me-nots and her hair like oaten straw in the autumn. . . .

She was very sad, that evening; so was he.He looked into the dark depths of her eyes.

For a second, as he made to fill her glass, she touched his hand as she shook her head. It thrilled him; it ran right up his arm to his brain: thrilled him as Russell Halliday had not been thrilled in years.

She knew what she had done and lowered her eyelids, so that all be could sec were her misty lashes.

“ Gwen!” he murmured.She made no reply to this remark. There

wasn’t much she could have said, of course.“ I love you!” he added tensely, leaning a

little across the table toward her.“ You . . . you mustn’ t,” she faltered,

meeting his eyes for a fractional part of a second in a manner which told a very Afferent story.

TN tbe taxi he took her unresistingly in hisarms. Russell Halliday was in love-

Blindly madly in love!And so was Mrs. Wetherby.How the little god must have laughed!

But possibly he has no sense of humor; so few people have!

After a short, rapturous silence Russel) Halliday asked Mrs. Wetherby to elope with him.

It is much better to state the fact simply. Whether it was the thrill, the champagne, the dark depths, I, who am but a poor scribe and no psychologist, cannot say. Suffice it that Russell Halliday asked Mrs. Wetherby to elope with him.

Mrs. Wetherby agreed. . . .If you had entered the smoking-room of

Mr. Halliday's club that evening and announced that he had asked a married lady to elope with him, you would have been greeted witli a hostile incredulity caused not so much by your questionable taste in making such an announcement, as by the assumption on the part of every man there that you were either a liar or a practical joker with no sense of humor,

If, on the other hand, you had entered the smoking-room of Mrs. Wotherby’s dub and announced that she had just consented to elope with Russell Halliday, you would, very rightly, have been ordered out, although the laffies there, once they had overcome their indignation, would have disciissed die piece of news you had given them on its own merits and with gusto.

And yet, to tlie two people in the taxi, it seemed the most natural thing in the world. Indeed, it seemed tiie one absolutely inevitable fact in the universe.

“ Sunday night, then, my darling, under the dock at Charing Cross, ten minutes before the boat train! Till then 1 count the seconds!”

TN fairness to .Russell Halliday it mustbe stated that he would not have used

such an awful clicki if he had been normd. But he was not normal. He was in love. He was so much in love that be walked homeward through the Park as one who walks on thistledown. It seemed almost as if he had but to reach up to touch the stars. A iid it served him Jolly welt right.

Tt wa,s all rot, he argued, what the cynics said about love. When the one woman in the world holds out her arms to a man, codes and all the dlly little conventions drop from him. He stands above all rules and laws, majestic, free. He was, as you can see, most

(Concluded on page sos)


f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5 201

C A r C J X k i

i

\

P A R I S

) resents the most luxurious Perfumes in the worldfor the gratification of ar\ elite American clientele.

__

His powders, toilet waters a n d lip sticks are a lso exq u is ite

I f not at your dealer's w rite d irect to

C I O N E Z .3 Z 0 Fifth Ave„New York City

K A I -SAN C

j < y I i t 'fA

S E R R EF L E V R IE

J E T PERFU M E

II

AtM any of the Leading Department Stores. , . .

Harper’s Bazar has made arrangements so that charge c u s t o m e r s may simply telephone and have the new Harper’s Bazar sent tothem and charged exactly in the same way that you’d order a bottle of your favorite perfume or a new book by an author you like.

So, around the first of each month,

Just T e l e p h o n e a n d Say , “ S e n d me Harper’s Bazar and C h a r g e I t .”

J C .

• a

XlM

Bromley Jersey Frock$25.00

In Silvertones and Tlain Colors. Wade to individual measurements of quality jersey. They do not hug the figure. Detachable collar and cuffs. Shipped on the same day order is received. (In white— $30 .)Sent prepaid to any addressinlheU. S.,or Canada plus duty. Descriptive folder and samples on request. Sold from coast to coast. Designed and made exclusively by

Bromley-Shepard Co., Inc.D esigners and m akers o f indM dual clolhes

fo r wom en D o not con fuse toltfi other firm s

3 1 P a i g e S t . , L o w e l l , M a s s . B o s t o n S h o p : 4 0 6 B o y l s t o n S t .

N . Y . A g e n t , J a n e C la r k , I n c . . 34 W . 4 7 th S t.


202

Introducing-A Ceinture with Absolute Control o f the Diaphragm

H YPATIAO S I N

O V E L Y s tr a ig h t lin es _ A h a v e b e e n a ch ie v e d

w ith m a n y o n e -p ie c e m o d e ls b u t im p e r fe c t c o n t r o l o f th e d ia p h r a g m a n d o f a r o u n d e d b a c k h as m a r r e d th e s e o th e r w ise s a t is fa c t o r y c re a t io n s .

H y p a t ia C o r s - 0 - C lin g h as a c c o m p lis h e d th is c o n tr o l. N o t e t h e illu s tra t io n o f C o r s -O -C lin g o p e n . T h e p a t e n t e d in n e r e la s t ic b e lt is h o o k e d t o th e c e n te r f r o n t a n d s lo p e s d o w n w a r d t o j o i n t h e s t r a ig h t b a c k a t t h e h e a v - i e s t p a r t o f t h e h ip s . A s im p le a r r a n g e m e n to f t h e b a c k g a r - ters h o ld s th e g a r m e n t iw a n d down a n d s m o o t h ly in p la ce .

A P a rt icu la r G a r m e n t fo r P a r t icu la r W o m e n

P r i c e s Fashioned from:

Mercerized Brocades................. $rs ooSilk Brocades.............. 22.50Skinner's Boot Satin...................35*ooImported Materials of

Finest Quality.......................... 45*00and up

Kenlastic used in side sections of all models

A t th e B e tte r S h op sn p r e fe r re d — y o u m a y o r d e r b y m a i l - g iv in g e x a c t n a tu r a l m e a a u ce m o Q ts o f 'v a is t a n d b u s t— o r v l u t o u r C o r s e t S tu d io a n d b e f it t e d b y « n oK p ert c o r s e t le r e , u n d e r th e p e r s o n a l s u p e r v is io n o f o u r d c a lg n e i .

T h e d e ta c h a b le B r a s s ie re is m a d e f r o m fin e s t q u a l i t y s ilk M ila n e s e a n d — an im p o r t a n t p o in t !— m a y b e la u n d e r e d s e p a ra te ly .

C o r s - O - C lin g is a n u n u su a l g a r m e n t , s im p le a n d d a in ty , t h a t a c c o m p lis h e s r e m a r k a b le resu lts in figu re h a r m o n y . M a d e f o r e v e r y t y p e o f w o m a n . F o r b o th th e s le n d e r g ir l w h o w a n ts t o re ta in h er lo v e ly lin es a n d f o r th e la rg e r w o m a n w h o req u ires c o n t r o l o f su p e r flu o u s flesh .

H o o k s o n a n d o f f in a m in u te .

Diaphragm Belt7b b9 worn ovtr

any conelSJips o v e r h e a d o r h o o k s a t s id e . O f w id e sU k e la s t ic , s la n t in g t o s e c c io n o f m a te r ia l w it h g a r t . e 'r a t t a ( c h - m c n t s , f la t t e o in g b a c x h ip lin e .

Ct>1ton BrocadeS3.00

Skinner Salin &.00

MAIL ORDERS GIVEN CAREFUL AND PERSONAL ATTENTION W R IT E fo r CATALOGUE

Dept. 27

TheH ou se

ofN ew Ideas

20-22-24 West

37th Street{Ju st o ff F ifth A ve.)

T H E L O S SH o l l o w a y H o r n ’ s S t o r y

{Concluded from page 200)


abominably in iove. Certainly at tbat moment be was mucb more of an apple tban a serpent!

Ultimately, in spite o( tbe trend of his thoughts, he reached his chambers and found that the wonderful William (his servant —a treasure!) had left on the sideboard exactly the thirds he wanted. He put his glass down with a feeling of exhilaration which took him back to the enthusiasm of boyhood. She was wonderful! Her dark eyes . . .

At last, strange as it may seem, he managed to go to bed. Almost before he knew, sleep came to him and he slept the sleep of the comparatively good (a veiy excellent kind of sleep, too!) until the Wonder waked him in the morning and asked him if he wanted his bath cold or luke-wami.

Russell HalUday was silent until consciousness returned fully to him.

“ Cold!” he said,

A COLD bath is, with the exception of Ta. influenza (also, be it noticed, a species of cold), the most disillusioning thing in the world. Russel! Haliiday saw things with vivid clearness as he completed his toilet- lie appreciated fully what he had done.

He called himself names: cursed his stud, his collar, and everything that was hls-

The patent breakfast food which he usually favored was waved away petulantly; the Wonder wondered, with raised eyebrows. The refusal of whiffled wheat was obvioQsly a matter of great moment- Even bacon, cooked to the perfect crispness, failed to charm The coffee itself was criticized. This latter had never happened before.

The Wonder was grim. ' He diagnosed the malady and wondered who she was.

Poor Haliiday lunched at his club where his manner caused three of his friends to inquire anxiously after his health.

The foursome in the. afternoon got on his nerves. His game was so bad that his partner asked jocularly whether Haliiday was in love. The poor wretch, with magnificent seif- controi, merely smiled, but he was very near felling his mirthful partner with his niblick- He woffld probably have made a better stroke with his driver, but he was using his niblick at the moment the remark was made. It is just as well to have these details correct as so many people are taking up golf nowadays.

He rarely dined at his dub, because they do not do dinners well there, but that evemng he took his place in the empty dining-room- He was in the mood in wiiich all dinners seem alike.

Afterwards he wondered what he would do, but without taking any very great interest in the question.

And then he noticed the letter in the rack.He read it, whistled, read it again, smiled,

ordered a whisky and soda, then another one, then told the hall porter to call a taxi.

He felt once again almost as if he could reach up to the stars; and thoroughly enjoyed the show at tlie Frivolity.

T 'H E clock at Charing Cross showed that A twenty minutes yet remained before the

hour at which the boat train left- Russell Haliiday waited patiently. He glanced about him anxiously at the Sunday evening crowd, but no one took any notice of him.

A quarter to the hour. The minutes were creeping on to the time they had arranged.

She came not.Some one spoke to Haliiday from behind.

He started violently, but it was only a dis

tracted Frenchman in need of guidance.Still the minute hand crept on.There was renewed bustle on the platform;

doors were being closed.The whistle went one minute after tlie hour.

Haliiday watched tlie great train glide out of the station into the night.

She had not come.He called a porter, who transferred his suit

case to a taxi. He gave the driver the address of his chambers. The Wonder was almost surprised when he saw his master return. Not quite, but almost. He was the perfect servant.

'T'tt'ELVE months elapse before the next -*- scene in this sad little drama.

Russell Haliiday is sitting in the end seat of the fifth row of the stalls at the Imperial Tlieater. The lights have been lowered: tiie play has commenced. Haliiday politely rises to allow a lady and gentleman to reach the second and third stalls in hb row. He settles down to the play without glancing at the new comers.

At the end of the first act the gentleman goes out to get a drink and Haliiday is suddenly conscious that the lady next to him is looking at him.

It is Mrs. W'ctherby.“ Well , , , ” said Haliiday and then,

mating a really excellent recovery, added, “ Why didn’t you keep the appointment that Sunday evening? I waited and waited . . . ”

Mrs. Wetherby glanced sharply at him.“ Was it on a Sunday evening?” she asked

with a little tinkling laugh.“ Surely!”“ I suppose I must have changed my mind.

I ’ve really forgotten, Mr. Haliiday.”“ It is a woman’s right,” he said gallantly.She laughed.“ Lile,” she said, “ is a very funny thing."“ Isn’t it! ” he said, with enriiusiasm.“ Confess now,” she said, “ you were glad I

changed my mind!”“ At the time,” he said, “ I was desolate.”“ And now?" she challenged.“ Now,” he said, meeting her glance without

flinching, “ I am only conscious that you are happy!”

“ The odd thing is that I am," she said, with a touch of seriousness. “ Peter is, after all, rather a dear. Here he is! Peter, you remember Mr. Holliday?”

Peter, thus appealed to, stopped in his progress toward his seat and examined the gentleman in question.

“ Can’t say I do;” he said, “ How are you, though?”

“ Very fit,” said Haliiday and then the lights went down ior the second act.

Th e Wonder had left the same fittings on the same sideboard when Russell Haliiday reached home after the performance. Again

he put down the glass. But this time he turned to his bureau and trom a pigeon-hole at the back took the letter which he had found on the rack at his club on that awful night twelve months before.

“ My own darling,” he read.“ I can not manage Sunday after all. My

sister is coming for dinner. It would be too terrible for Jane to find me gone- She’s so particular- Make it Monday, heart of my heart, at the same time and place. I am racing to get the post, but I have just time to send you all my love. Thine utterly, Gwen.”

“ This little chap,” Haliiday said with a grin, “ must have been lost in the post!”


20i

f o r A P R I L 1 9 2 5

i

II

II1sr.

s

- t k t C U a r

Hair-Free, Satin-Smooth SkinT h e t h r i l l in g h a p p in e s s o f l o v e l y b e a n t y c a n b e y o u r a . U s e M e e t t h e d a i n t y c r e a m a n d h a ^ r a r m s a n d u n d e r - a r m s t h a t a re h a i r - f r e e e a t in -B m o o t h a n d fa u l t l e s s -

rem oTiog cream ju e l as i t com es fr o m th e tube th eo simpJy rinse th e h a ir aw ay.The skin itse lf is acted u p on w ith gooM ally b e n ^ ficial e ffect, ehow ing u n expected n ew beauty and loveliness o f toxturo in con trast t o darkened surf a c e w hen the ra zor is u eed . M oreover, y<m use M eet w ith positive assurance th a t hair w ill not com e back th icker a n d coarser th an b o fo r e -a s it goes a fte r ehnvlne:.Call fo r N c c tb y nam e at y ou rd ru g ord ep a rtm en t M ore A cce p t n o substitutes. N o other metbpd re iard lees o f co s t equals th is q u ick , sim ple hair- rem oving cream especially f o r th e larger surfaces o f le g s and arm s. Should y o u r favorite store fo r S e J o m e o t b e o u t o f K e e t , send dfW „a m o and address f o r a fu ll a ised tube by mail.

NeetTie Hair Removing Cream

J S S m t l M e f • » o d o t a a d i o w « 0 per*«ftA l I n g r n ^ e .H A W I B A L P S A B , C o . , 6 4 $ 0 U v 8 , S t . L o o i s . M O

The ‘Bath ‘Bewitching

A delicate fragrance, to aug- m en tthed eligh to f th e bath ing hour. T h e ton ic properties o f the sea , t o re fre s h and invigorate. T h e water m agica lly s o ft e n e d , tok eep you rsk in velvet-sm ooth .

A sprinkling o f

— there is the true enchantm ent o f the b a th ! N in e odors to m eet your preferences.

JVo. 4711 Eau de Cologne—Its mild astringent action is highly beneficial. An effective base for cosmetics. A favorite

since 179 2 .N o. 4711 W hite Rose

Glycerine Soap — Depended upon since i 860 as a "first aid coward a beautiful skin.” Keeps theskin satin-soft.

M o d e in U , S. A .

Mulhens 8: Kropff, Inc. 25 W est 45th Street

N ew Y ork

H A T a n d S C A R F

E N S E M B L E

A t your favorite Shop. The Earl trade mark is your assurance that it k the lateSt note o f Sfyltj

f t your body breathe

In otic o f the Itiltacle plays o f the m iddle ages, a sm all boy w as cast fo r the part o f an angel. T o produce the effect they w anted, h isb o d y w as gilded from h ead to fo o t . ,T h e boy died — because h is body could n o t breathe.

H -t H

I f y o u r c o r s e t w i l l n o t p e r m i t t h e p o r e s o f y o u r b o d y co b r e a t h e , N a t u r e w i l l m a k e y o u p a y — f i r s t i n d i s c o m fo r t ; l a t e r p e r h a p s i n a p e r m a n e n t b l ig h t o n h a p p in e s s . L e t y o u r b o d y b r e a t h e !— i t i s v i t a l t o h e a l t h , CO s u s t a in e d y o u t h a n d v i g o r .

C o r s e t s m a d e w i t h K e n l a s t i c , t h e k n i t t e d e la s t ic , a d ju s t t h e m s e lv e s in s t a n t ly a n d n a t u r a l l y t o e v e r y c h a n g e i n m o t i o n a n d p o s t u r e , h o d in g a n d m o u ld in g tVie f i g u i e w i t h o u t r e s c r a in t . C o tsfits Tnadc w itfv K ^ n lu stfc let y o u T body hreachel . .

- th e knitted elastic"isusedbyAm erica’ sleadingmak- era o f fine corsets— a guarantee o f unvarying quality. W hethev you purchase am odel made with silk Kenlastic— the most luxurious corset fabric made — or a m od el made with cotton Ken- lastic, you may be sure o f thesameKenlasticexcellence.Thereis the same grade o f rubber; the same meticulous care in knlP ting by ou r special and patented processes: the same testing; the same expert finishing.

" A little book about Happiness” gives facts and view points that have a definite bearing o n personal beauty, sustained youth, charm and poise. Free at corset departments. O r write me, m ention the store where you buy corsets and I w ill mail you a copy. Address: Pamela H ill, care James R . Kendrick C o., Inc., Germ antown, Philadelphia. N e w Y o s k O m c t : 76 M a d is o n A v e n u e



T H E N E W M A R M O N

Qoupe D e jg ^ xeon the standard f^tarm on

'wheelhase chassis

T h e reception given the N e w M a r - MON D e L uxe M odels in exclusive

^ r /r ~ circles m ore than conhrm s our b e lie fNEW MARMON ‘‘ vailable to -— day, regardless o f price.

5) T h e b od y lines are new, but the - fam ous six-cylinder M arm on chassis

is the sam e m ech an ism on w h ich M a rm on has co n ce n tra te d fo r so m any years.

A m on g the m any m odels you will find ju st the particular and distinct type for you r particular and personal needs— a cou p e that w ill be the talk o f the coun try club or the p o lo field, five and seven passenger sedans and five and seven passenger en closed drive lim ou sin es o f stately beauty.

I f s a Great Automobilf^Kcrdvkz . EuablhhUiSsi ■ Ind.akazous, luo.

e a r s m a y b e p u rc iia s cJ u n c o n v e n ie n l d e fe rre d p a y m e o i p la n i f d e s ire d

NEW N ^R M O N

— the sam e M a rtn o n c h a ss is a n d e n g in e w ith the -N ew M arm on Standard Four- D oor Closed Cars a t practically

the price o f the open car. V a r ious models from w hich to choose

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LAMBERT P H A R M A C A L C O M P A N Y , SAINT L O U I S aU.S.A.T O R O N T O L O N D O N M E L B O U R N E P A R I S M A D R ID M E X I C O C I T Y


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TU R N or two of this satiny oval cake between your fingers, and you will know what lather can be like! Heavy, luxuriant, smooth as cream, searching every pore to cleanse it, rinsing away instantly, leaving your skin glowing and refreshed, soft and unroughened.This firm, white cake, with its matchless fragrance, will remain firm, and white and fragrant until worn to the thinness of a wafer.

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urn sckwelnlek ebtss, nejw yi>rrAyuntamiento de Madrid

Harper's Bazar New York de abril de 1925

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Transcript of Harper's Bazar New York de abril de 1925