abstract - UPCommons

Acknowledgments

and special thanks to my family, friends and tutors, for all the help and support given

during the course of this project.

3

This thesis research deals with the topic ofshopping which has become animportant part of each individual’s life.Nowadays, this activity has changedremarkably. With the development oftechnology, we can buy without the needof going to a store. This is what it iscalled, online shopping. A revolutionarychange that allows us to buy any item wedesire, everywhere and at any time.As far as we are concerned, onlineshopping, is now the state-of-the-art inshopping. Thus, the main goal of thisproject is to propose a new way ofperforming shopping, specifically in theretail field making use of the technologywe have at our disposal.

In this context, the idea is to create a newmethodology and experience to shop inphysical clothing stores, given that onlinecustomers enjoy a personalizedexperience with rapid price and productcomparisons, plenty of information andoften spot-on recommendations basedon their purchase history and preferences.Given this background, all the mentionedconcepts above are showed throughstudy cases and followed by the design,that shows a new concept of clothing,enhancing the making of the product andrestoring the lost in-store activity, from itsbeginning until the final result, involvingthe customer to be part of all theproduction steps.

5

ABSTRACT

Aquesta investigació de tesi tracta eltema de les compres que actualment s'haconvertit en una part molt important dela vida de cada individu. Avui en dia,aquesta activitat ha canviatnotablement. Amb el desenvolupamentde la tecnologia, donat que a l’actualitates pot realitzar qualsevol tipus de comprasense la necessitat de desplaçar-se a unabotiga. Això és el que s’anomena lacompra en línea. Un canvi revolucionarique ens permet adquirir els productes quedesitgem, a tot arreu i en qualsevolmoment. Com ja es de saber, les compresen línia i, especialment, la venda de roba,ara són el tema de l’actualitat. Aixímateix, l’objectiu principal d’aquestprojecte és proposar una nova forma derealitzar les compres, concretament enl'àmbit comercial tèxtil, fent ús de latecnologia que tenim a la nostra

disposició. En aquest context, elplantejament és crear una novametodologia i experiència per comprar enbotigues de roba físiques, atès que elsclients en línia gaudeixen d’unaexperiència personalitzada ambcomparacions ràpides de preus iproductes, gran quantitat d’informació isovint recomanacions puntuals basadesen l’historial de compra i preferències.Donada aquesta prespectiva, tots elsconceptes esmentats anteriorment esmostren a través de casos d’estudi iseguits del disseny, que mostra un nouconcepte de roba, que millora lafabricació del producte i restaural’activitat perduda a la botiga, des delseu inici fins al resultat final, implicant elclient per formar part de tots els passosde producció.

6

ABSTRACTE

Shopping

(noun) /ˈʃɒpɪŋ/

the action or activity of buying goods from shops.goods bought from shops, especially food and

household goods.

7

KEY WORDS

Textile, personalized, clothing, future, technology, DIY,customer experience, interior design, interaction,wearable, fashionable.

8

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION……………………………………………………………………….11

SHOPPING RESEARCH…………………………………………………………….212.1. In-Store shopping………………………………………………...252.2. Online Shopping………………………………………………….272.3. Process of manufacturing……………………………….…..302.4. Machinery…………………………………………………………...342.5. Materials and fabrics…………………………………………...402.6. Study cases………………………………………………………...462.7. Technology……………………………………………………..…..502.8. Conclusions………………………………………………………....52

CONTEXT. LINKING THE IDEA TO REALITY……………………………...543.1. Rec.0 Experimental Stores……………………………….......563.2. Other activities……………………….…………………………...603.3. The user………………………………………………………………62

DESIGN……………………………………………………………………………...........634.1. References/Study cases.……………………………………..654.2. The design (Plans)………………………………………...........68

4.2.1. Materials……………………………………….........784.2.2. Viability………………………………………….…..794.2.3. App interface……………………………………..80

4.3. Corporate image………………………………….....................81

CONCLUSIONS………………………………………………………………………...88

BIBLIOGRAPHY………………………………………………………………………..91

12

3

4

56

INTRODUCTION

Image cover: Clothes hangersSource: https://unsplash.com

The concept of shopping 1 has evolvedremarkably in the last years. In the past,people have to get their purchase fromthe stores/shops. With the advancementof technology, now we are able to doshopping via online without the need togo to a physical shop. Furthermore, onlinecustomers enjoy a rapid service and theyalso get product comparisons, plenty ofinformation and often spot-onrecommendations based on theirpurchase history and preferences. Allthose features reflect the easy way ofshopping, making it more flexible andinteractive.Even so, online shopping 2 has caused alack of presence of customers in shopsand stores. In some cases, people go tothe shops to pick up their online ordersdone previously and not to have a lookdirectly at the items exposed. Otherwise,some customers go to the shop just tosee what is in there, they try on it, andthey end up buying online as it is morecomfortable and it can be done at anytime. This point, reflects the needcustomers have to see what they are

buying; real colour, texture, thickness,size, etc, all these characteristics arecrucial when selecting our favourite piece.Then, we can state that online shoppingis completely useful and flexible yet it hasdisadvantages. This idea arises from apersonal desire to create a store where wecan find the ideal clothes, and after agreat reflection about how our clothes aremade and where. A space where we areable buy a piece of clothing about whichwe are totally convinced as today weoften do not find what we are looking forin the emerging stores. Many people donot know how is the manufacturingprocess of the clothes we use, or underwhich conditions they are beingproduced. My proposal, watches over thisside of great interest at the same timewhen plotting the subject. In bothphysical and virtual stores, we find theend result, fashion for everyone. But whatis behind this fashion? After seeing adocumentary on this topic, it is shown theclear value of the clothes we buy and howare the conditions of the process ofmanufacturing precisely.

INTRODUCTION

.

12

1 See definition of shopping in section 2 and 2.1

2 See definition of online shopping in section 2.2

INTRODUCTION

“The True Cost” 3 2015, is a Must See in the documentaries of this line as it shows the shocking reality behind the fabrication of clothing. This documentary aims to create awareness on the society about this field and makes the viewer to be part of the process to bring social solutions, sustainable change that takes into account human rights and workers' rights. It helps us realize the precariousness that workers are forced to

develop their tasks in, which sometimesends up in a tragedy like the one thathappened in Rana Plaza, Bangladesh,that left hundreds of dead. As asummary, this documentary shows therelationship between the consumer whowants to buy fashion at a low cost andthe precarious conditions and the lowwages of the workers who manufacturethe products.

Fig. 1/ Cover of “The true cost” documentary, 2015

Source: https://www.netflix.com



3 “The true cost”, 2015 Documentary [Online] Available at:

https://www.netflix.com/es/title/80045667 [Accessed 04

June 2019].

13

INTRODUCTION

https://www.netflix.com/es/title/80045667



Another reference always related to theworld of clothing and fashion is a moviethat has given me another reason tooutline my project proposal. "The Man inthe White Suit“4, 1951, tells the story of ayoung scientific, who, after severalattempts, invented a revolutionary fabricwith peculiar characteristics; neither stainsnor it breaks. As soon as he becomesaware of this innovative invention, his finaldestiny will be reversed in a disappointedway. At that time, entrepreneurs in the

British textile industry and their workers,intend to interrupt the production of thisrevolutionary fabric with the clear reasonnot to lose jobs or the closure of theircompanies.The film exposes an intense social andpolitics satire of the society.These references are very helpful to focusbetter in the development of the projectand trying to solve these shortcomingsand negative points that have emergedduring the topic's approach.

Fig. 3/ Cover of “The man in the white suit” film, 1951

Source: https://www.filmaffinity.com/es/film859166.html

4 “The Man in the White suit, 1951 Film [Online] Available

at: https://zoowoman.website/wp/movies/el-hombre-

del-traje-blanco/ [Accessed 23 May 2019].

14

INTRODUCTION

https://www.filmaffinity.com/es/film859166.html

https://zoowoman.website/wp/movies/el-hombre-del-traje-blanco/

The objective of this proposal is to designa system to bring life to the in-storeexperience and implement a new way ofdoing shopping, besides, we can be ableto customize our clothes, see and touchthe material, and witness the process ofproduction while our item is being printed.The aim is to create a different concept ofshopping by the use of technologicalsystems to originate interaction in thespace.Creating an automated yet handmadestore will help users to be more interactiveand have a pleasant shoppingexperience. Furthermore, this idea willhelp customers to choose their favouritepieces and personalize them in real time.So, this work is made for commercialinteriors, specially clothing stores.

The expected conclusion is to improvecustomer satisfaction and differentiatethe in-store experience. Also, by involvingthe user to be part of the process ofmanufacture will make it more interestingand personalized.

Technology and InnovationThe use of new technologies to improvethe functioning of the space, will make itmore interactive and enhance thesatisfaction and the user experience.

Project & EnvironmentThe use of eco-friendly materials for thedesign taking into consideration theenvironment, such as recycled cardboardto create the interior of the space is goingto be designed.In addition, the main objective of theproposal is to treat the reduction of wasteoriginated from the manufacture ofclothing.

Theory & CriticismThe challenge here is an attempt tochange the idea of the actual shoppingby implementing a new concept andspeculating on how is going to be used inthe future.

15

OBJECTIVE/CONCLUSIONS

INTRODUCTION

MAIN HYPOTHESIS

The goal is not just “modernization” butrethinking the concepts of selling andcustomer service to create a true 21st-century shopping experience, to originatea bound between offline and onlineshopping. In a networked store theexperience is enhanced through customerrecognition, information “pushed” tocustomers based on preferences orspecial aspects made in real-time.The innovation is that we will be able togo shopping in an easier way. Entering to

the shop, personalizing our items and seehow they are being produced, without theneed to pay in the store. An automatedsensor system with which we can controlevery movement and have it trackedthrough media sources.The expected conclusion is to improvecustomer satisfaction and differentiatethe in-store experience.Also, by involving the user to be part ofthe process of manufacture will make itmore interesting and personalized.

16

INTRODUCTION

The element to design is a STAND/SHOW STORE to promote this newconcept of shopping of clothes. Sinceonline retail is now the state-of-the-art inshopping.Online customers have the access torapid price, product comparisons andelections, but the idea of this project is to

design the process of making a piece ofclothes through technology, where userswill have the freedom to use it andinteract with it in a customized way.By implementing existing technology,like three-dimensional scanner, sensorssystem or 3d printers, the space will bemore effective and functional.

THE ELEMENT TO DESIGN

Customization/DIY Election materials/colors/textures Printing process

Fig. 4/ Process of the design’s proposal

Own source

17

INTRODUCTION

Firstly, my area of interest involved thetopic of shopping in the present day andthe main concern was focused on how tochange this method to a next extend. Inthe course of the preliminary developmentof the topic, I opted to analyse the presentsituation, including its advantages anddisadvantages, to obtain a clearconclusion about the shortcomings thisfield has. Thus, once I arrived to theprincipal problem or shortage, this was thestarting point of the research about theshopping field and its aspects. Thesesteps led me to analyse the technology

and how can we use it to purchase in anefficient and innovative way. Iapproached this research from the field oftechnology and studying the activity ofshopping in its various sides. Once, allthese topics had been clarified, I followedthe research with study cases with the aimto acquire specific information andknowledge that will sort out some aspectsin the course of the project. Lastly theproject is completed with the conclusionsfound along the process and therecommendations for possible futureresearch.

METHODOLOGY

18

INTRODUCTION

Fig. 5/ Research diagram

Own source

19

INTRODUCTION

Fig. 6/ Design thinking processOwn source

“Most people make the mistake of thinking design is what it looks like. People think it’s this veneer —that the designers are handed this box and told, ‘Make it look good!’. That’s not what we think design is. It’s not just what it looks like and feels like. Design is how it works.” (Steve Jobs)

Fig. 7/ Design thinking intersection of disciplines

Own source

20

INTRODUCTION

RESEARCH ABOUT SHOPPING

This part contains the research about theshopping field generally and its variousaspects in the theoretical frameworkwhere this work is based to provide theidea that is going to be developed alongthis project. Starting with the introductionof the topic, followed by the differenttypologies that shopping has until thepresent. The importance of the actual

shopping activities will allow us tounderstand the proposed idea. In thecourse of this part we also find the studyof the manufacturing process, themachinery used, the technology thatmakes this subject innovative and thematerials related to the textile field, aswell as the examples chosen as areference to complete the study.

Image cover: Westfield shopping centre in LondonSource: Ewan Morrison (Scottish author and screenwriter)

22


Shopping is a fundamental element inour daily routine. Almost everything in liferequires shopping.But what does it mean? “Shopping is anactivity in which a customer browses theavailable goods or services presented byone or more retailers with the potentialintent to purchase a suitable selection ofthem” 5 .In the antiquity, there were placesdestined to the purchase and sale ofgoods in certain days and in specificplaces. This is how the purchase of basiccommodities was made. Over time,merchants established themselves as akind of fixed stops to carry out their work.In places like ancient Greece and ancientRome. After this period, and with themodernization of society, the need to buyand sell was on the increase, whichcaused the establishment of stores orpermanent stops throughout the year,

making the purchase and sale one of themost frequent and repeated activity.This phenomenon is produced by theindustrial revolution and the highdemand for production. Consumptiongrows and the population begins to buywithout a concrete need. Simply, toacquire a new product on the marketwithout using it.

With the passing of time, the act ofbuying begins to gain strength andmany aspects come into play, such ascustomer service, product quality, after-sales service, etc.The act of simple shopping provides anemotional experience in the user. We allfeel thrilled after walking out of the storehaving just bought that product or itemwe wanted. “The successful shopper canfeel like he has just conquered the worldthrough the mere act of buying an itemthat is pleasing to him” 6 .

5 Shopping definition [Online] Available at:

https:/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shopping [Accessed 20 May

2019].

6 “Why We Shop: Emotional Rewards and Retail Strategies” Book by Jim Pooler (Pag. 3), 2003 [Online] Available at:https://books.mec.biz/download-book/2706 [Accessed 20 May 2019].

23


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shopping

https://books.mec.biz/download-book/2706

Fig. 8/ Shopping of clothes

Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/Fzde_6ITjkw


24

https://unsplash.com/photos/Fzde_6ITjkw

2.1. IN-STORE SHOPPING

As it already exists today, there are twotypes of how to make a purchase;physically in the store or online.Since the main theme is about theclothing retail, in this section we willanalyse the purchase in the store in aphysical way being the traditionalmethod and best known to this day. Thisaspect has many advantages that theonline form cannot offer to its customersand that we will list below 7 :

• The first aspect is the ability to try onthe garments that we would like tobuy, to check our size and see if thissuit or shirt really favours us.

• The chance to experience the qualityof the product. Touching the texturesof the clothes at first hand, if it isthick or thin, soft or rough, thosecharacteristics provide a real imageof what we want to acquire.

• The same goes for footwear andsportswear. The best way to know ifsome shoes really are comfortable isto prove them. To make sure that wewill have a beneficial performanceduring our workout, we ought to fit onthe sporting equipment in advancedto get the best results.

• The immediate access to theproducts. This aspect is of greatimportance since once we havechosen what we want, we can payand take it with no need to wait for it.

• The exposition of products allows thecustomer to have a wider variety ofitems that may be of her o hisinterest.

25


7 Article by Stephanie Lavin, 2015 [Online] Available at:https://www.slatwallcommerce.com/resources/articles/online-versus-in-store-what-is-the-better-option[Accessed 15 May 2019].

https://www.slatwallcommerce.com/resources/articles/online-versus-in-store-what-is-the-better-option

Fig. 9/ Shopping physically in a store

Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/q3o_8MteFM0


26

https://unsplash.com/photos/q3o_8MteFM0

Although shopping at stores has itsadvantages, online shopping also has itspositive points.We are currently living in a world wherethe speed of the actions is very relevant,and thanks to the technology we have atour disposal, we are able to buyeverything we want via online, withouthaving to go to a physical store. This typeof purchase also has its advantages thatwill be mentioned continuously 8 :

• Shopping online, provides us to safetime and transportation until thephysical store.

• There is no schedule for online shops.They are never closed.

• It is the most comfortable way to buyfrom the sofa in your home and withpyjamas.

• Buying online offers us theconvenience of buying withoutqueuing or spending time waiting totry the clothes. In addition, there areno crowd.

• After ordering your products, you mayreceive them at home, which makes itmore comfortable and flexible.

• Online shopping sometimes offers usmore discounts rather than the pricesin the physical stores.

8 Pros and cons of online shopping [Online] Available at:

https://www.thebalance.com/the-pros-and-cons-of-

online-shopping-939775, 2019 [Accessed 11 June 2019].

2.2. ONLINE SHOPPING


27

https://www.thebalance.com/the-pros-and-cons-of-online-shopping-939775

Fig. 10/ Shopping via online

Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/gp8BLyaTaA0


28

https://unsplash.com/photos/gp8BLyaTaA0

As outlined previously, the two ways of

buying have their positive and valid

aspects. Recently, in our society, the

predominance of online purchases is

increasing, being in the spotlight. The

fact that each individual has a mobile

device causes this phenomenon to be

available to everyone since there are

very affordable options for sale. Being

the most used form of purchase and

sale, it offers convenience and flexibility

to make both national and international

purchases. It should be noted that even

so, the online purchase has its

shortcoming, such as the fact of not

being able to test the clothes, nor know

how is the touch of the textures or the

real color, adding that we cannot take

the products we have bought instantly

as we have to wait for them for being

delivered.

All these negative points make this

method not 100% efficient, and has

caused physical stores to have lost

much prominence.

In the course of this analyses, the online

purchase takes a center stage, leaving

aside the physical store. This feature is

what I intend to promote through this

proposal. Focusing the attention on the

store and return its value that has been

lost over time.

The idea seeks to create a mix between

technology and the traditional method

of buying and selling. As a kind of DIY

that the customer creates and produces

it until the last step.


29

The process of making a piece of clothingconsists on several stages until obtainingthe final result. The main element tomake any piece of clothing, is the fabric.The latter requires a long and continuousprocess through machines where themain product is the thread that can be ofdifferent thicknesses, textures and colors.

To better understand how this processworks, I visited the Technical IndustrialSchool of Terrassa (Fig. 11), specifically tothe textile department, to see at firsthand the methods of fabric production,for their subsequent use in the making ofclothes.

Fig. 11/ Weaving machine

Own source

2.3. PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING


30

Fig. 12/ Reels of threads for the weaving machine

Own source

Fig. 13/ Position of the coils in the weaving machine

Own source


Own sourceFig. 15/ Coil brush in the weaving machine

Own source


31

The first step in this production chainbegins with the filament making througha machine as shown in the previousimages (Fig. 11,12,13,14,15). This largemachine (more than 5 meters long), isresponsible for creating the fabric thatrequires coils of threads placed at one ofits end which are linked to create thedesired fabric. The preparation of thepieces is no longer done manually as ithad been done in the antiquity, now it is

an industrial process, always with thesupervision of employers who work toensure that all the steps are functioningcorrectly. This process streamlines theproduction of clothing quantities,compared with the ancient handmademanufacture (Fig. 16), where theelaboration of a garment could takedays, as all the steps where handmadeand required a high level of precision toobtain the best item.

Fig. 16/ Convencional pedal Loom

Source: https://deantano.cl/producto/telar-a-pedales-2/


32

https://deantano.cl/producto/telar-a-pedales-2/

Fig. 17/ Process of manufacturing diagram

Own source


33

Once the fabric is obtained, a pattern is

made with the measurements of the

piece, and then the fabric cuts are

followed, and the union of these cuts

are made to have the article of clothing.

The next step is the placement of the

accessories, if necessary, and this

section would already be finished,

giving way to the washing of the

clothes to obtain the final result. Then

the article passes a series of quality

tests and if all aspects are valid, the

next step is labeling and packaging the

product for its subsequent final delivery

(Fig. 17).

This process is the most common in the

manufacture of garments, but there are

other internal modifications in the steps

depending on each company and also

on the operating system of each device

or machine.

There are many machines thatmanufacture clothes in different waysand with various characteristics andbenefits. In this chapter, I will exposesome types of machines I consider areimportant for the approach of the

proposal being revolutionary and efficientwhen producing the garments with smarttextile solutions, taking into account theenvironmental impact that supposeseach one of the different methods.

Fig. 18/ A woman sewing, Nepal

Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/b9SyQrAYz6A

2.4. MACHINERY


34

https://unsplash.com/photos/b9SyQrAYz6A

9 Shima Seiki company [Online] Available at:

https://www.shimaseiki.com/wholegarment/, 2019

[Accessed 20 April 2019].

SHIMA SEIKI is a company dedicated tothe manufacture of clothes throughtechnological machinery. His latestinvention has been Wholegarment, a newrevolutionary device which producesknitwear in one entire piece, directly in themachine. In contrast, normally to make apiece of clothes, it is necessary tomanufacture it in parts; the back, thesleeves and the front part, whichsubsequently are sewn together tocomplete the garment.The Wholegarment, requires a priorprogramming through technologicalcomputers linked with the machine to

start the production once all the pointshave been configured.It also does not require seams, whichmeans a skip post-production labor.In addition, this aspect means that it isnot time-consuming, adding that it doesnot generate a lot of waste since the piecegoes out completely from the machine.Even though, some designs, dependingon the composition may require stitchingto join all the parts of the item.This company, supports a large variety ofproducts, such as gloves, socks, leggings,braces, hats, scarves, neckties, bags,purses, wallets and other complements 9.

Fig. 19/ Wholegarment technical features

Source: https://www.shimaseiki.com

SHIMA SEIKI


35

https://www.shimaseiki.com/wholegarment/


SHIMA SEIKI has its own 3D designsystem named SDS ONE APEX seriesthat incorporates a simulation of designssoftware. It also programs the knittingmachines and patterns CAD. It contains ahigh quality range in the definition ofvirtual samples and designs.

Their Design System has evolvedconsiderably since they launched the firstdigital system in 2007 . Currently, thegoal is to promote and create andadvanced technology to develop a morecreative industry 10 .

Fig. 21/ Process of creation of garments

Source: https://www.shimaseiki.com/product/design/

Fig. 20/ Primitive design system


Fig. 22/ 3D virtual sample


10 Shima Seiki Design system [Online] Available at:

https://www.shimaseiki.com/product/design/, 2019



36

https://www.shimaseiki.com/product/design/




11 Shima Seiki machine [Online] Available at:



The applications of the Wholegarmentknitting are numerous, such as;Sports/Outdoors, Industrial, Safety,

Wearable, Medical, Interior, Childrenswear,Accessories 11.

Fig. 23/ WHOLEGARMENT Knitting Machine

Source: https://www.shimaseiki.com/product/knit/machine/


37


https://www.shimaseiki.com/product/knit/machine/

Kniterate, is a knitting machine that worksdigitally with the use of a punch cardalong with CAD systems which generatesprinted patterns, and some editions ofthis device are able to be connected tothe PCs to read any pattern directly. Itworks mainly with a kind of Photoshopsoftware that reads the patterns throughan SD card that contains the model 12 .The aim of this invention is to reachcustomers who want to personalize their

items locally and democratize theclothing industry. This fact, was notpossible due to the large dimensions ofthe industrial knitting machines and alsodue to the high price that costs.This machine, had been redesigned to fitin our space, as its width is about 914,4mm maximum, and to knit our items in amore simplified process within a fewminutes without wasting a lot of materialduring the process of production.

Fig. 24/ Kniterate machine knitting

Source: https://www.kniterate.com

KNITERATE



12 Kniterate machine [Online] Available at:

https://www.kniterate.com/about/, 2019 [Accessed 6 April

2019].


38

https://www.kniterate.com/


https://www.kniterate.com/about/

The new fashion revolution and tendenceis already having a powerful impact onour society. Apart from the industrialmachines that we have mentionedpreviously which can make the fabric andthe garment, nowadays this process canbe printed in 3D and with quitecompetitive time frames. 3D printingtechnology has reached the world offashion and clothing 13. In the very nearfuture we can print our ready-to-wearclothes to use it.

This technology has the potential toreduce waste, labour force, but in addition,modernizes the form to produce clothing.But, how it works?These printers, instead of using inkcartridges, use a plastic filament that fallsfrom layer to layer to create the structureof the texture of the piece. Theinconvenience they may have is that theyare small machines and then large piecescannot be printed, but can be attachedfrom multiple 3D printed parts.

Fig. 26/ Process of 3D printed clothes

Own source

1. Design the 3D model digitally

and adjust all the configuration

and dimensions.

2. Printing process, after the

election of the colour of the

material and its texture.

3. Final result. Separate

and eliminate any excess

of materials.

3D PRINTED CLOTHING

13 3d fashion [Online] Available at:

https://www.lboro.ac.uk/news-

events/news/2016/april/3d-fashion.html, 2016



39

https://www.lboro.ac.uk/news-events/news/2016/april/3d-fashion.html

Bearing in mind that the mostrevolutionary machines in the textileworld are those that weaves the entirepiece at once, and then we have 3Dprinters through which are able to print

any garment we desire. Thus, thisepisode focuses on analyzing thematerials that these types of machinesuse to make the garment.

Fig. 27/ Thread of different colors

Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/IB6wKbPIvNA

2.5. MATERIALS AND FABRICS


40

https://unsplash.com/photos/IB6wKbPIvNA

The Wholegarment machine andKniterate use basically knit fabrics withits different versions to make clothes.The knit fabric is made up of a threadthat binds each other to form a fabricwhich is a flexible and an elasticmaterial. The fact that it is formed byloops makes the textures to be wider ornarrower thus creating different textures,dimensions and shapes with the samematerial.The advantage it has is the good finishon both sides, outside and inside. Themain elements that make up the knitfabric are silk, linen, cotton, wool,

viscose, rayon among others, althoughmost synthetic components are oftenadded to achieve various results anddurablility 14 .

There are two different ways to producethis knit fabrics, vertically andhorizontally: warp and weft Knitting. Thefirst one consists on threading withseparated needles creating a verticalknitted direction. Weft knitting works witha single thread that forms the piece in anhorizontal way. In the following chart, it isexposed the numerous types of knitfabrics ans its applications (Fig. 28).

Fig 28/ Chart of types and applications of knit fabrics

Own source

Horizontal

knitting

Jersey

Dresses, skirts,

tops, underwear

Interlock

Leggings, fittingdresses, shirts

Rib

Cardigans, neckbands, cuffs

Purl

Outwear, sweaters

Raschel

Dresses, coats, underwear, blouses

Tricot

Lining, sleepwear, swimwear

Milanese Knit

Sweater, cardigans, scarfs

Vertical knitting

KNIT FABRIC

14 Knit fabrics [Online] Available at:

https://tissura.com/articles/knit-fabrics, 2019

[Accessed 18 June 2019].


41

https://tissura.com/articles/knit-fabrics




• Knit fabrics does not lose its shape andcolor, it is resistant and durable.

• This material is so versatile, whichallows companies to use in numerousapplications. Besides, thanks to itsdifferent thicknesses the items could befor winter or summer season.

• It has high level of flexibility and it canstretch in all directions, adapting toeveryone’s shape.

• Comfort is one of the most importantfeature that knit wear has. Its texturescan offer breathability and lighnessbeing adaptable to hot and coldweather.

Despite having more positive points, knitfabrics also contain some disadvantagesthat will be mentioned below15.

• The complication of knitting this typeof tissues makes it difficult to workwith. It requires a lot of precision andcarefulness.

• This type of fabric is prone to peelingor forming balls. When it is 100%fabric of a single composition, itcauses pilling, but when it containsother synthetic additives, it gives itmore resistance and retains thisphenomenon.

ADVANTAGES OF KNIT FABRICS


42



Fig. 29/ Low gauge knitting Fig. 30/ Half-cardigan stitch yield

Fig. 31/ Integral knits without seams Fig. 32/ Dimensional structure patterns

Source: https://www.shimaseiki.com/wholegarment/ Source: https://www.shimaseiki.com/wholegarment/

Source: https://www.shimaseiki.com/wholegarment/ Source: https://www.shimaseiki.com/wholegarment/

Fig. 33/ Knitting-in decorative elements

Source: https://www.shimaseiki.com/wholegarment/

Fig. 34/ Deeper necklines


43







When speaking of 3D printing, this act isdirectly associated with syntheticmaterials with quite differentcharacteristics of woven fabrics whichwere formed in a two dimensional form.In the beginning and with thepopularization of 3D printers, plasticmaterials were used; PLA or ABS, whichare polymers, mostly used when printingin 3D thanks to its wide range of colorsthat can be offered and also becausethey are rigid materials that cannot bedeformed. For these aspects, printing anyobject or device, make them a veryfunctional and simple material, but toprint a piece of clothing, it is not quitecomfortable because the result obtainedwould not be suitable with the flexibilityof a piece of clothes.The main challenge was to add moreflexibility to this materials to printwearable items by inserting more stretchto them and altering its internalgeometry. With the advancement oftechnology, many experiments are beingdone to create a 3d fabric with flexibility.The question is to put together smallpieces to achieve a more stretched fabricwithout breaking 16.From here Filaflex arises, an elastic

filament, strong, very flexible and withvaried chromatic range, but also it hasother positive point in favor:• 700 % elongation to break.• Easy placement in the 3d printer

machine.• Compatible with almost all the 3d

printers.• It is a 3 mm thick filament which

makes it more malleable and flexible• High level of strength and elasticity.

Fig. 35/ 3d printed fabric

Source: Danit Peleg - https://danitpeleg.com

3D PRINTED MATERIALS

16 3d printing [Online] Available at:

https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/scientists-are-

pushing-limits-3d-printing-these-shape-shifting-materials-

ncna895301, 2018 [Accessed 17 May 2019].



44

https://danitpeleg.com/

https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/scientists-are-pushing-limits-3d-printing-these-shape-shifting-materials-ncna895301



The variety of objects that can be printedin 3d is very broad. From small objects tolarge pieces. Following the line of theproject, the accessories are a part thatcomplements our clothes. That is why

many objects, such as watches, bracelets,necklaces, bags, footwear, can also beprinted in 3d in conjunction with ouroutfits.

Fig. 37/ 3d printed handbag

Source: XYZ Bag - https://www.xyzbag.com

Fig. 38/ 3d printed bracelet

Source: Nervous System - https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com

Fig. 39/ 3d printed sandals

Source: Danit Peleg - https://danitpeleg.comFig. 40/ Adidas 3d printed midsoles

Source: https://www.adidas.com/

45

https://www.xyzbag.com/

https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/



Amazon Go, is a new concept of storewhere there is no checkout using the mostadvanced technology in the field ofshopping17. It works through a mobileapplication. By using the Amazon Go appwe will be able to enter the store afterscanning our code, then we can take ourgo. The functioning is completelydifferent from what we are used to dowhen we go to a shop. There are nocashiers, we can just find maintenancestaff, you just have to grab any productyou desire and go out, so you will never

have to queue in line, this is called “Justwalk out technology”, a simplifyingmethod that makes shopping easier andinteractive.This new concept of buying, offers a newexperience to consumers, whileit reduces the waiting time that we canpass within a store. Once you are doneshopping, you can exit the store.Afterwards, you will receive a receipt withthe charge of the purchase through theAmazon Go app.

Fig. 41/ Amazon Go App

Source: https://www.amazon.com/b?node=16008589011

Fig. 42/ Amazon Go commercial


2.6. STUDY CASES

AMAZON GO

17 Amazon Go [Online] Available at:

https://www.amazon.com/b?node=16008589011, 2019

[Accessed 18 May 2019].

46

https://www.amazon.com/b?node=16008589011




This study case has been selected forthe idea it contains behind the brand.Although it has other matters which canbe debated such as sustainability andwaste production both in productionand packaging (Pag. 52).

Nespresso, was firstly launched in 1986in three countries (Switzerland, Italy andJapan), proceeding with its expansion

in other parts of the globe. Thephilosophy of Nespresso is unique, itdoes not sell a drink, but a lifestyle.

The sum of both factors makes itscustomers willing to pay a little more fora cup of coffee18.

The signature has created a differentway of buying coffee, since we can findcoffee in any supermarket. But theconcept of experimenting with thisproduct goes beyond the simple coffeeand its flavour. The customer feels thenecessity to go to the store toexperience the coffee senses.

Fig. 43/ Nespresso logo

Source: https://www.nespresso.com

Fig. 44/ Nespresso ice coffee


NESPRESSO

18 Nespresso [Online] Available at:

https://www.nespresso.com, 2019 [Accessed 14 May 2019].

47

https://www.nespresso.com/



Referring to stores with virtual 3dassistants, this case study is the first I-clothing store appeared in South Korea.This shop belongs to the store chain,Shinsegge. Is the first store of its kind inthe world. The aim is to enhancecustomer choices and increase saleswhere the customer does not need to goto pick up the clothes in the store 19.The process of its operation is intuitiveand simple. After entering the shop, yougo in a room where a three-dimensionalscanner scans your body in detail. Then,using this information, the system creates

a personalized 3d avatar for you. Onceyou exit the room, you will be able to seeyour avatar in a large screen. Byscanning the RFID tag of any item youdesire to try on, automatically it willappear on your avatar. This systemallows customers to select among a largevariety of clothes. When a purchase ismade and the shopper scanned, all thisinformation is encrypted and stored in avirtual card which can be used to buyclothes through mobile phones andcomputers.

Fig. 45/ 3d shopping assistants

Source: http://retail-innovation.com/korean-retailer-

shnsegaes-creates-3d-avatar-of-you-in-store

Fig. 46/ 3d shopping assistants log in



3D SHOPPING ASSISTANTS

19 3d shop assistants [Online] Available at: http://retail-

innovation.com/korean-retailer-shnsegaes-creates-3d-avatar-

of-you-in-store, 2013 [Accessed 12 May 2019].


48

http://retail-innovation.com/korean-retailer-shnsegaes-creates-3d-avatar-of-you-in-store




Adidas launched a digital area in theHarrods shopping center in London, asa claim for the store. It is controlledthrough tactile interactive screens whichprovide product details and locateranges in store. The aspect ofinteraction offers agility and action inthe space 20.

The innovative tools developed bysoftware companies are being used tooffer the fasion industry a new mannerof higher-quality visualizations, adding

a wider range of user experiencepossibilities. Numerous brands, as Nikeor Hugo Boss are now making use of3D photorealistic to visualize andensure how a garment will look like on afixture.


Source: http://retail-innovation.com/adidas-

womenswear-browser-screens-in-harrods

Fig. 48/ Hugo Boss logo

Source: https://www.hugoboss.com

INTERACTIVE SCREENS

20 Interactive technology [Online] Available at: http://retail-

innovation.com/adidas-womenswear-browser-screens-in-

harrods, 2016 [Accessed 12 May 2019].


Source: https://www.nike.com/es

49

http://retail-innovation.com/adidas-womenswear-browser-screens-in-harrods

https://www.hugoboss.com/



JUST WALK OUT TECHNOLOGY

As mentioned in the previous section, theleading technology that hasrevolutionized the world of shoppingwithin the store is the “just walk outtechnology”(Study case of Amazon Gopag.46), it facilitates the operation of abusiness and makes it more interactive.Just walk out Technology detectsautomatically the movement of thestored products inside the shop, and keepthem back to the shelves keeping itstrack in a virtual cart.After finishing the selection of the

products and grabbing them you couldgo out the store. Immediately you willreceive a receipt of the purchase through

a mobile application.This technology offers the possibility ofcheckout-free with no need to pay in-store. It works in accordance to Computervision, Sensor fusion and deep learningRFID. The last aspect, brings thepossibility of simplifying shopper’sexperience in the store and allowing tofunction with no lines, no check out 21.

Fig. 50/ Simple Diagram Showing How RFID Works

Source: http://www.ijirset.com/upload/2018/rtcsit/RTCSIT-49.pdf

2.7. TECHNOLOGY

21 “Just walk out technology” [Online] Available at:

http://www.ijirset.com/upload/2018/rtcsit/RTCSIT-49.pdf

2018, [Accessed 18 May 2019].

50




Fig. 51/ Functioning of “Just walk out technology” in Amazon Go store

Source: https://www.slideshare.net

This technological advance will bedesired as the shopper or customer willsave their time skipping the dreadfulcheckout fase by entering, grabbing theproducts and going out rapidly. Tocomplete this experience it is used thesensor fusion technology, specially RFIDtags, which are under the same rank ofautomatic identification and datacollection, very alike to barcodesalthough it is not necessary to be near ofthe scan reader of each article. Thisinvention is changing the convinience ofstores, and ameliorating the shoppingexperience in terms of saving time duringthe purchase process. Thus, the shop willfunction with autonomy, which meansthat there will be no dependents, but wewill find maintenance staff.In addition, over time, more companies

will implement the same technology forthe various benefits that offers to theconsumers.Sensor fusion, is one of the aspectsamong the funciontality of thistechnology. The fusion of sensorsconsolidates the sensory data or theinformation obtained from different partswith the aim to be more precise and lessvulnerable when it is used separatelyfrom the other parts. It requires sensors tosense the objects adding all the otherfactors that collaborate with the entireset, such as, RFID tags, RFID reader ofsignals and barcodes, cameras to takeimages of the items in the store, andtechnical staff to deal with the electronicdevices and programming steps.


51


During the course of this chapter, themost relevant aspects of this researchwere considered and explained. The set ofall the parts that make up this collectionof information, gives the possibility ofdelimiting what will be the design of theproject. From the garments, it is possibleto develop different techniques to thecharacteristics that the space must haveto shape the whole set and make it moreinnovative. And technology is one of theindispensable elements for the properfunctioning of a business. As in today’sworld, without technology it is hard toimagine our daily life. It plays a vital role.“Just walk out technology”(Pag.50, 51), isa clear example of innovation in the fieldof stores and shops in general and its hasvarious applications.After the analysis of the examples and

On the other hand, it is necessary tomention that one of the main aspectsand necessary to have at the time ofchoosing the machinery that will producethe garments, is the generation of waste.With the conventional machines, there isalways a wasted part of material in themanufacturing process, reason of whythe search has focused on the 3 devicesmentioned above (Pag. 35-39). wherewaste of material is minimal andtherefore, the residue can be controlledoptimally.

When it comes to the production concept,it isalso necessary to outline that one ofthe referrals explained previously,specifically the Nespresso case, as abrand philosophy is totally interesting,but it has generated a concept ofproduction that generates wastecontinuously, since to make the capsulesand their appliances, there is a greatwaste of material which causes anegative impact on the environment.

With the progress of the research, it hasbeen taken into consideration how a storeor business operates from the perspectiveof the concept and the innovation in theapproach of the subject.With the set of these parts, it is intendedto conceptualize the idea as a new way ofbuying, applying the technology “Justwalk out technology” to create aninteraction and offer a unique experiencefor the consumer; a futuristic vision ofshopping that could be spread all overthe globe. By implementing a new formof making clothes, completely differentfrom the conventional way, we will beable to download and print our clothesfreely in a matter of years. Introducingthis new shopping experience willcertainly change the world of retail for thebetter eradicating social differences anddemocratizing this sector.

2.8. CONCLUSIONS

52


After this stage and to specify theaspects of the design that will be carriedout, it is necessary to define what itemswill be offered to customers as a startingpoint, so that they can be customizedand then printed or knitted. To give a full

range of products, we will use a ShimaSeiki (Pag.35) and Kniterate machine(Pag. 38) to produce garments, and a 3Dprinter in order to print all accessories andfootwear items. This way there is acoverage of all needs and demands.

Fig. 52/ Variety of articles proposed

for printing and knitting

Own Source

53

Men and women footwear

Men and women clothes

Men and women accessories

CONTEXT. LINKING THE IDEA TO REALITY

This episode shows the contextualizationof the project. To delve into this proposal,it has been necessary to find anemblematic place to locate the design.Thus, It has been choosen the Rec. 0experimental stores, since firstly it dealswith the subject of clothes and secondly,it is a very important event in theprovince of Barcelona where it transformsa neighborhood of a city in a verycharacteristic way.

In this chapter, it will be exposed what itis REC.0 Experimental Stores, and whatactivities are carried out during the daysof its functioning.To know at first hand how theatmosphere and the organization of thisevent is, I have personally assisted to it,to know the participating brands andsignatures and how they are distributedthroughout the neighborhood.

Image cover: Map of Igualada, BarcelonaSource: http://maps.stamen.com

55

CONTEXT

http://maps.stamen.com/

3.1. REC.0 EXPERIMENTAL STORES

Rec.0 Experimental Stores is amulticultural event celebrated twice ayear. Its location is in Igualada, in theprovince of Barcelona. It takes place in anold industrial district of the city, Rec 22.The event consists on transforming oldfactories and tanneries into pop up storeswhere numerous brands sell their stockedproducts with very competitive prices.Rec.0 Experimental Stores, has itsbeginnings in November 2009, the datewhen it was founded by a group of sixpeople with the aim to spread this activityamong the fashion industry. Since itslaunch, this pop up festival has become aclear reference in Catalonia.The peculiar characteristic of Rec.0 is thateach edition is not the same as the

previous one, there are always newfeatures. Each year, new brands areadded to the list of participants.A different circuit is created for eachedition where during its course and for 4consecutive days, many places can bediscovered and buy fashion brands ofprestigious label at very special prices.Once this event is over, the district returnsto its normal activity.A part from showing up the variousbrands, Rec.0 is also a cultural meetingbetween the visitors and the artists. Thus,Rec.0 holds a Rec Street Food, whit 32food trucks, additionally, Music RecFestival offers several concerts in twoscenarios including poetry reading,screening and other exhibitions.

22 Rec Experimental stores [Online] Available at:

https://www.rec0.com/es/rec-0-el-projecte/

2019, [Accessed 4 May 2019].

56

CONTEXT


Fig. 53 / Igualada, Barcelona

Source: http://maps.stamen.com

Fig. 54 / Rec District location


57

CONTEXT



Fig. 55/ Pop-Up stores circuit 2019

Source: https://www.rec0.com/es/

58

CONTEXT

https://www.rec0.com/es/

Fig. 56/ Rec logo

Own sourceFig. 57/ Rec kids zone

Own source

Fig. 58/ Signage Rec stores

Own source

Fig. 59/ Influx of visitors

Own source


Own source


Own source

59

CONTEXT

REC MUSIC FESTIVAL

3.2. OTHER ACTIVITIES

Rec.0 Music Festival, is one of theactivities celebrated during this event. Itprogrammes around tweenty concerts itwo stages distributed along theneighborhood23.

Fig. 62/ Rec Music Festival

Source: https://www.rec0.com/es





Fig.64/ Rec Music Festival




23 Rec music festival [Online] Available at:


2019, [Accessed 4 May 2019].

60

CONTEXT

https://www.rec0.com/es






REC FOOD STREET

Rec.0 Food Street, it is having anincreasing demand lately. It has morethan 32 food trucks located throughoutthe Rec district24 .



2019, [Accessed 4 May 2019].


Own source


Own source


Own source


Own source

61

CONTEXT


Image cover: Crowded spaceSource: https://unsplash.com

During my visit to the Rec, in its latestedition, a large number of visitors to thisevent have been observed to enjoy avintage and pop atmosphere whiledelighting various snacks as they movethrough the food trucks andaccompanied with live music. Throughthe circuit (Pag.58), we find clothingstores of some reputable brands that selltheir products at fairly affordable prices.Also, shops intented for the sale of itemsfor home and besides, some

establishments that sell childrenclothing. Therefore, it can be said that itis a very complete event, where everyonehas a place to fit in.After this synthesis, the user is not aspecific profile, rather it is a generalpublic that goes to consume, and couldbe classified as a large volumeconsumption, therefore, it is an eventopen to people of all ages andpreferences.

3.3. THE USER

THE DESIGN

Image cover: Drawing utensilSource: https://unsplash.com

This chapter presents the design of theproposal starting with the ideas andexamples of other models as a referenceto proceede with the following points. Aswe are already dealing with the textiletheme, it has been deemed convenient towork with flexible and curved forms takinginto account the structure of the threadreels, which denote movement andlightness. The design building proposedcan be located both in the interior of tradefairs or outdoors and it would also beflexible and adaptable to any event andlocation. It is also treated the subject ofmaterialization of the design, focusing

on the use of cardboard for its qualitiesusing the concept of economic andmedioambiental sustainability. Designsketches and drafts are shown to explainthe whole process. It has been designedthe interface of the mobile applicationthrough which the customer will be able topersonalize their items. In addition, anadvertisement has been created in theform of an outdoor cartel to publish thisnew concept. Finally, the packaging is inthe form of a cardboard tube, the mainelement in the interior of the space, thus itgives continuity and coherence to thewhole set.

64

THE DESIGN

4.1. REFERENCES/STUDY CASES

Fig. 71/ Outside Scenario mounted with plastic boxes at RecSource: https://www.rec0.com/es

Fig. 76/ Outdoor stand of clothes at Rec event Source: https://www.rec0.com/es

Fig. 72/ Exterior assembly made out of containers at Rec event. Source: https://www.rec0.com/es

Fig. 73/ Exterior clothing container exhibitor at Rec eventSource: https://www.rec0.com/es

Fig. 75/ Levi’s Stand for customized Jeans in Rec event 2019Own source

Fig. 74/ Outdoor stand of clothes at Rec event 2019 Own source

65

THE DESIGN

These references use the curved formsapplied in interiors of stores with thecombination of light, the result is yetmore defined as shown in the VanCleef&Arpels exhibition in Singapure(Fig.77). In this case, the curves aremade from yarns hanging from theceiling 25.The second images is a store in Japan,made out of cardboard tubes thatcompones separated zones inside thesame space26. The tubes had beenreused from waste. (Fig.78).Behind this project lies the ideaof creating a striking space that doesnot have to forcibly have a greatinvestment for its execution.

Fig. 78/ Kari Boutique, Hiroshima Japón. SupposeSource: https://www.plataformaarquitectura.cl

Fig. 77/ Van Cleef&Arpels, Singapure Exhibition. Edward HendricksSource: https://www.yatzer.com

25 Van Cleef&Arpels Exhibition [Online] Available at:

https://www.yatzer.com/art-science-gems-van-cleef-

arpels, 2019, [Accessed 23 May 2019].

26 Kari Boutique, Hiroshima Japón by Suppose. [Online]

Available at:

https://www.plataformaarquitectura.cl/cl/02-

37764/karis-suppose-design-office, 2010, [Accessed 4 May

2019].

66

THE DESIGN

https://www.plataformaarquitectura.cl/cl/02-37764/karis-suppose-design-office

https://www.yatzer.com/art-science-gems-van-cleef-arpels


#Organic Shapes #Threads #Coils of strings #Textile #Mesh #Grid

Fig. 81/ Wire coilsSource: https://unsplash.com/photos/PpHZmnAqHA4

Fig. 80/ Coils of stringsSource: https://unsplash.com/photos/aGz5hkren64

Fig. 79/ ThreadsSource: https://unsplash.com

Fig. 82/ GridSource: https://unsplash.com/photos/3pBHB-bmGno

Fig. 83/ Grid and meshSource: https://unsplash.com

67

THE DESIGN

https://unsplash.com/photos/PpHZmnAqHA4

https://unsplash.com/photos/aGz5hkren64

4.2. THE DESIGN (PLANS)

Fig. 84/ First sketchesOwn Source

68

THE DESIGN


69

THE DESIGN

Fig. 86/ Draft of designOwn Source

Private area (staff only)

Public and open area

Shop window area

70

THE DESIGN

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

Entrance of the store/stand

Code Scanner zone

Visualization of different models on customers avatars area

Knitting and 3d printer machines area

Waiting area

Take away zone

Private area for staff. Coffee corner. Storage space

Washing and dryer machines. Ironing support. Clothes and complements storage. WC for staff

Exit of the store/stand

71

THE DESIGN

Fig. 87/ Plant 1/100 Own Source

1 2

3

4

5

4

6

78

9

B B’

A A’

C

C’

72

THE DESIGN

Fig. 89/ Elevation BB’ 1/100 Own Source

Fig. 90/ Elevation CC’ 1/100 Own Source

Fig. 88/ Elevation AA’ 1/100 Own Source

Fig. 91/ Isometric view 1/150Own Source

73

THE DESIGN

Fig. 92/ Entrance viewOwn Source

74

THE DESIGN

Fig. 93/ Cutomization and augmented visualization space viewOwn Source

75

THE DESIGN

Fig. 94/ Printing and knitting area Own Source

Fig. 95/ Waiting areaOwn Source

76

THE DESIGN

Fig. 96/ Pick up or take away zoneOwn Source

Fig. 97/ Private area for staff. Coffee corner. Storage spaceOwn Source

77

THE DESIGN

Fig. 98/ Washing and dryer machines and Ironing support. Clothes and complements storage. WC for staff Own Source

4.2.1. MATERIALS

The main central elements are proposedto be made out of cardboard tubes, togive flexibility and curved spaces. Thismaterial is sustainable, economic andlight. The idea was initially inspired bythe projects of Shigeru Ban (Fig.100),

Where cardboard is the protagonist ofthe majority of his designs, thanks to itsqualities such as easy assembly anddisassembly, lightness, flexibility andenvironmental sustainability.

Fig. 100/ Cardboard Cathedral Christchurch, New Zealand 2013, Shigeru BanSource: http://www.shigerubanarchitects.com

Fig. 99 / Corrugated CardboardSource: https://www.hardypackaging.co.nz

Fig. 101/ Cardboard tubes structures of the designOwn source

1 Code Scanner zone

3 Knitting and 3d printer machines area

2 Visualization of different models on customers avatars area

4 Take away zone

78

THE DESIGN

http://www.shigerubanarchitects.com/

4.2.2. VIABILITY

Viability, especially economic, is thecondition that evaluates theconvenience and functionality of aproject or idea. In this proposal, theviability represents other definitions thatmake this idea valid and functional. Asdescribed throughout this project, theelement to be designed is a stand/storetype building, which could work and beapplied to reality thanks to a series ofpoints that will be shown next.The first point is the agility that wouldinvolve mounting and dismantling in thestage of execution, as it is used thematerial of cardboard in the form oftubes, thanks to its qualities of beingsustainable and also for the economicaland affordable part.The second point is the internaloperation of the business and in thiscase it is proposed to use the method ofsponsorship of 3D printing and knittingmachines as well as the technology thatwill operate the entire store set.

This could be optimized over time andonce the operation is more evolved.Regarding social viability, in this case itwould be an immediate validation, sincesocial consumption is treated with theconcept of producing democraticallyand responsibly. The impact of thesepoints could be between mid and longterm, since it is a new way of focusingthe production of clothes andaccessories and it is necessary forsociety to know and understand itgradually.In the construction phase, it requires aninitial investment, and so in the internaloperation, it would be necessary toestablish ties with the pioneeringcompanies in the textile industry as wellas the 3D printing industry.Consequently, it can be stated that theproject presents quite real characteristicsthat could be implemented variousplaces and that it develops a correct andevolving functioning.

1

79

THE DESIGN

4.2.3. APP INTERFACE

Fig. 102/ App interfaceOwn source

80

THE DESIGN

4.4. CORPORATE IMAGE

81

THE DESIGN

In this section, the corporate image isconsidered as a means of disseminatingthis new idea and making it known insociety. In order to carry out this design,it has been sought to search images thatrepresent a different way of dressing, toattract more attention and offer a visionfor what is not usual. Hence theinspiration for the designs of Iris VanHarpen 27, who is a Dutch fashiondesigner, renowned worldwide for her

talent and creativity, as well as being apioneer in the world of 3D printing forfashion with various technicalconstructions of the piece . Her designsgo beyond a simple piece of cloth,express art, movement, surrealism andreflect a creativity that everyone caninterpret in their own way. To carry outthe poster design, I have been based onthe choice of some images that conveya sensation, movement and uniqueness.

27 Iris Van Harpen [Online] Available at:

https://www.irisvanherpen.com/home, 2019, [Accessed 21

June 2019].

https://www.irisvanherpen.com/home

82

THE DESIGN

Fig. 103/ Advertising poster, proposal 1Own source

83

THE DESIGN


84

THE DESIGN



Fig. 107/ Advertising poster, proposal 2 Own source


85

THE DESIGN

Fig. 109/ Photomontage outdoor advertising

Own source

86

THE DESIGN

The main focus in this part is to create aunification between the interior spaceand the packaging. For this reason, oncethe customer already obtains thepurchase, it will be given to consumer ina cardboard tube, which can be anindicative element of the signature,besides it is also a reusable and

sustainable item. The objective is topropose a homogeneous set between allthe aspects of the project and the finalresult of the product. These tubes areproposed to be of different sizes andheights depending on the piece ofclothing.

Fig. 111/ Packaging proposalOwn source



THE DESIGN

87

CONCLUSIONS

Image cover: An open bookSource: https://unsplash.com

In order to carry out and develop the finalwork of the Master on ContemporaryDesign, a previous reflection and researchwas needed to know the shortcomings ithas the topic proposed and whatnovelties could be provided to it to createa significant impact.Currently, there are already methodsthrough which the customer can make apurchase rapidly. But, as from thebeginning of this project the mainobjective was to create a new way ofbuying, different from the alreadyexisting online or in-store methods, in thecourse of the preliminary development ofthe topic, I opted to analyse the presentsituation, including both the pros andcons to define the deficiences. Thus, onceI arrived to the central shortage, the goalwas not just to modernize, but to rethinkabout the concepts of selling andcustomer service to create a true 21st-century shopping experience, linkingbetween offline and online shopping in anetworked store the experience isenhanced through customer recognition,and information based on preferences orspecial aspects made in real-time.Based on all the previous aspects, theidea seeks to create a mix betweentechnology and the traditional method ofbuying and selling. As a kind of DIY thatthe customer creates and produces it until

the last step. The reserach also has beenbased on social and sustainable featuresto give an alternative to society in thisfield.From the technological and innovativeside it is intended to implement the”Justwalk out technology” to make aninteractive space and enhance thesatisfaction of the user. Now, with the 5.0industry, we have numerous tools such asthe connection with the icloud to storageour customized items, the possibility toshare opinions and models with thecommunity, and the self fabrication ofclothes and complements.On the other hand, in the project andenvironment line, it is considered the useof ecofriendly materials such ascardboard that can subsequently bereused to lessen the waste. This point islinked to the choice of machines that canwork efficiently and innovatively insidethe store.In the part of the theory and criticism, thechallenge was to implement this newconcept of clothing through thespeculation an analysis of the socialsituation, as well as cooperating in theextinction of social differentiation thatsome countries live due to the economicaland social aspects and where manymanufacturing factories of clothes areseated.

2.8. CONCLUSIONS

89

CONCLUSIONS

Overall, I can state that after theexposed information throughout thisdocument, the first hypothesis and themain objective have been fullfilled tooffer a new concept of clothingthat looks after the social, economic andenvironmental aspects. A new experiencethat will certainly change the world ofretail to the better and democratizingthis field in the near future.It creates a survey of current trends infashion and clothing, adding anoptimization of production andmarketing processes. It shows a model ofproximity store where all the steps areexposed.

Another point to add is that this modelof building, stand or model store, couldserve as a promotion of the business andone could search other events in otherplaces to make it known and participatein more activities of this sector.Along this master tesis, it had been dealtwith the subject of social differencewhich generates unresolved points sinceit could be deepened more and analyzeother aspects not only those directlyrelated to the world of clothing and inanother context with different programs.This subject could be an academicdebate related to the social andcontemproray design.

90

CONCLUSIONS

BIBLIOGRAPHY

21 “Just walk out technology” [Online] Available at:

http://www.ijirset.com/upload/2018/rtcsit/RTCSIT-

49.pdf 2018, [Accessed 18 May 2019].

BIBLIOGRAPHY

BIBLIOGRAPHY

92

3 “The true cost”, 2015 Documentary [Online] Available at: https://www.netflix.com/es/title/80045667[Accessed 04 June 2019].

4 “The Man in the White suit, 1951 Film [Online] Available at:

https://zoowoman.website/wp/movies/el-hombre-del-

traje-blanco/ [Accessed 23 May 2019].

5 Shopping definition [Online] Available at:

https:/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shopping [Accessed 20 May

2019].

6 “Why We Shop: Emotional Rewards and Retail Strategies” Book by Jim Pooler (Pag. 3), 2003 [Online] Available at:https://books.mec.biz/download-book/2706 [Accessed 20 May 2019].

7 Article by Stephanie Lavin, 2015 [Online] Available at:https://www.slatwallcommerce.com/resources/articles/online-versus-in-store-what-is-the-better-option [Accessed 15 May 2019].

8 Pros and cons of online shopping [Online] Available at:

https://www.thebalance.com/the-pros-and-cons-of-online-

shopping-939775, 2019 [Accessed 11 June 2019].

9 Shima Seiki company [Online] Available at:



10 Shima Seiki Design system [Online] Available at:

https://www.shimaseiki.com/product/design/, 2019


11 Shima Seiki machine [Online] Available at:



12 Kniterate machine [Online] Available at:

https://www.kniterate.com/about/, 2019 [Accessed 6 April

2019].

13 3d fashion [Online] Available at:

https://www.lboro.ac.uk/news-

events/news/2016/april/3d-fashion.html, 2016 [Accessed

6 April 2019].







16 3d printing [Online] Available at:

https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/scientists-are-

pushing-limits-3d-printing-these-shape-shifting-

materials-ncna895301, 2018 [Accessed 17 May 2019].

17 Amazon Go [Online] Available at:

https://www.amazon.com/b?node=16008589011, 2019


18 Nespresso [Online] Available at:

https://www.nespresso.com, 2019 [Accessed 14 May

2019].

19 3d shop assistants [Online] Available at:

http://retail-innovation.com/korean-retailer-

shnsegaes-creates-3d-avatar-of-you-in-store, 2013


20 Interactive technology [Online] Available at:

http://retail-innovation.com/adidas-womenswear-

browser-screens-in-harrods, 2016 [Accessed 12 May

2019].




https://zoowoman.website/wp/movies/el-hombre-del-traje-blanco/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shopping

https://books.mec.biz/download-book/2706

https://www.slatwallcommerce.com/resources/articles/online-versus-in-store-what-is-the-better-option

https://www.thebalance.com/the-pros-and-cons-of-online-shopping-939775




https://www.kniterate.com/about/

https://www.lboro.ac.uk/news-events/news/2016/april/3d-fashion.html



https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/scientists-are-pushing-limits-3d-printing-these-shape-shifting-materials-ncna895301





22 Rec Experimental stores [Online] Available at:

https://www.rec0.com/es/rec-0-el-projecte/ 2019,


BIBLIOGRAPHY

93


https://www.rec0.com/es/rec-0-el-projecte/ 2019,


25 Van Cleef&Arpels Exhibition [Online] Available at:

https://www.yatzer.com/art-science-gems-van-cleef-arpels,

2019, [Accessed 23 May 2019].

26 Kari Boutique, Hiroshima Japón by Suppose. [Online]

Available at: https://www.plataformaarquitectura.cl/cl/02-

37764/karis-suppose-design-office, 2010, [Accessed 4 May

2019].

27 Iris Van Harpen [Online] Available at:

https://www.irisvanherpen.com/home, 2019, [Accessed 21

June 2019].

24 Rec music festival [Online] Available at: https://www.

rec0.com/es/rec-0-el-projecte/ 2019, [Accessed 4 May 2019].



https://www.yatzer.com/art-science-gems-van-cleef-arpels


https://www.irisvanherpen.com/home




LIST OF FIGURES

BIBLIOGRAPHY

94





Fig. 3/ Cover of “The man in the white suit” film, 1951

Source: https://www.filmaffinity.com/es/film859166.html

Fig. 4/ Process of the design’s proposal

Own source

Fig. 5/ Research diagram

Own source

Fig. 6/ Design thinking processOwn source

Fig. 7/ Design thinking intersection of disciplines

Own source

Fig. 8/ Shopping of clothes

Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/Fzde_6ITjkw

Fig. 9/ Shopping physically in a store

Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/q3o_8MteFM0

Fig. 10/ Shopping via online

Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/gp8BLyaTaA0

Fig. 11/ Weaving machine

Own source

Fig. 12/ Reels of threads for the weaving machine

Own source


Own source


Own source

Fig. 15/ Coil brush in the weaving machine

Own source

Fig. 16/ Convencional pedal Loom

Source: https://deantano.cl/producto/telar-a-pedales-2/

Fig. 17/ Process of manufacturing diagram

Own source

Fig. 18/ A woman sewing, Nepal

Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/b9SyQrAYz6A

Fig. 19/ Wholegarment technical features

Source: https://www.shimaseiki.com

Fig. 21/ Process of creation of garments


Fig. 20/ Primitive design system


Fig. 22/ 3D virtual sample


Fig. 23/ WHOLEGARMENT Knitting Machine

Source: https://www.shimaseiki.com/product/knit/machine/





Fig. 26/ Process of 3D printed clothes

Own source

Fig. 27/ Thread of different colors

Source: https://unsplash.com/photos/IB6wKbPIvNA

Fig 28/ Chart of types and applications of knit fabrics

Own source

Fig. 29/ Low gauge knitting

Fig. 30/ Half-cardigan stitch yield

Fig. 31/ Integral knits without seams

Fig. 32/ Dimensional structure patterns







https://www.filmaffinity.com/es/film859166.html

https://unsplash.com/photos/Fzde_6ITjkw

https://unsplash.com/photos/q3o_8MteFM0

https://unsplash.com/photos/gp8BLyaTaA0

https://deantano.cl/producto/telar-a-pedales-2/

https://unsplash.com/photos/b9SyQrAYz6A





https://www.shimaseiki.com/product/knit/machine/



https://unsplash.com/photos/IB6wKbPIvNA




BIBLIOGRAPHY

95

Fig. 33/ Knitting-in decorative elements


Fig. 34/ Deeper necklines






Fig. 37/ 3d printed handbag

Source: XYZ Bag - https://www.xyzbag.com

Fig. 38/ 3d printed bracelet

Source: Nervous System - https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com

Fig. 39/ 3d printed sandals


Fig. 40/ Adidas 3d printed midsoles

Source: https://www.adidas.com/

Fig. 41/ Amazon Go App


Fig. 42/ Amazon Go commercial




Fig. 44/ Nespresso ice coffee


Fig. 45/ 3d shopping assistants



Fig. 46/ 3d shopping assistants log in




Source: http://retail-innovation.com/adidas-

womenswear-browser-screens-in-harrods

Fig. 48/ Hugo Boss logo

Source: https://www.hugoboss.com


Source: https://www.nike.com/es

Fig. 50/ Simple Diagram Showing How RFID Works

Source: http://www.ijirset.com/upload/2018/rtcsit/RTCS

IT-49.pdf

Fig. 51/ Functioning of “Just walk out technology” in

Amazon Go store

Source: https://www.slideshare.net

Fig. 52/ Variety of articles proposed for printing and knitting

Own Source

Fig. 53 / Igualada, Barcelona


Fig. 54 / Rec District location


Fig. 55/ Pop-Up stores circuit 2019

Source: https://www.rec0.com/es/

Fig. 56/ Rec logo

Own source

Fig. 57/ Rec kids zone

Own source


Own source

Fig. 59/ Influx of visitors

Own source


Own source


Own source







https://www.xyzbag.com/

https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/









https://www.hugoboss.com/





https://www.rec0.com/es/


Fig.64/ Rec Music Festival


BIBLIOGRAPHY

96








Own source


Own source


Own source


Own source

Fig. 71/ Outside Scenario mounted with plastic boxes at RecSource: https://www.rec0.com/es

Fig. 76/ Outdoor stand of clothes at Rec event Source: https://www.rec0.com/es

Fig. 72/ Exterior assembly made out of containers at Rec event. Source: https://www.rec0.com/es

Fig. 73/ Exterior clothing container exhibitor at Rec eventSource: https://www.rec0.com/es

Fig. 75/ Levi’s Stand for customized Jeans in Rec event 2019Own source

Fig. 74/ Outdoor stand of clothes at Rec event 2019 Own source

Fig. 78/ Kari Boutique, Hiroshima Japón. SupposeSource: https://www.plataformaarquitectura.cl

Fig. 77/ Van Cleef&Arpels, Singapure Exhibition. Edward HendricksSource: https://www.yatzer.com

Fig. 81/ Wire coilsSource: https://unsplash.com/photos/PpHZmnAqHA4

Fig. 80/ Coils of stringsSource: https://unsplash.com/photos/aGz5hkren64

Fig. 79/ ThreadsSource: https://unsplash.com

Fig. 82/ GridSource: https://unsplash.com/photos/3pBHB-bmGno

Fig. 83/ Grid and meshSource: https://unsplash.com



Fig. 86/ Draft of designOwn Source

Fig. 87/ Plant 1/100 Own Source

Fig. 89/ Elevation BB’ 1/100 Own Source

Fig. 90/ Elevation CC’ 1/100 Own Source

Fig. 88/ Elevation AA’ 1/100 Own Source

Fig. 91/ Isometric view 1/150Own Source

Fig. 92/ Entrance viewOwn Source





https://www.plataformaarquitectura.cl/

https://unsplash.com/photos/PpHZmnAqHA4

https://unsplash.com/photos/aGz5hkren64

Fig. 95/ Waiting areaOwn Source

Fig. 94/ Printing and knitting area Own Source

BIBLIOGRAPHY

97

Fig. 96/ Pick up or take away zoneOwn Source

Fig. 97/ Private area for staff. Coffee corner. Storage spaceOwn Source

Fig. 98/ Washing and dryer machines and Ironing support. Clothes and complements storage. WC for staff Own Source

Fig. 100/ Cardboard Cathedral Christchurch, New Zealand 2013, Shigeru BanSource: http://www.shigerubanarchitects.com

Fig. 99 / Corrugated CardboardSource: https://www.hardypackaging.co.nz

Fig. 101/ Cardboard tubes structures of the designOwn source

Fig. 102/ App interfaceOwn source







Fig. 109/ Photomontage outdoor advertising

Own source




http://www.shigerubanarchitects.com/

abstract - UPCommons

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