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YUGOSLAVIASIX REPUBLICS IN ONEftOSEtrf PAUL .KmDAN 349JAMES P. DlAIH
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ISLESONTHE EDGEOF THE SEA: SCOTLAND'DUTEft HEBRIDESKENNETH MwLslSH 5 76THOMAS NEBBIA
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1BS3 Ci El fH A fH A CE 1M ? U**V OP f IN* J£ VVf |_f#V - ti37C?
Were nil vim evpect Japan t<i bfc
Your Japan Air Lines hostess is much morethan an airline stewardess. She's an artful con jure r>
She brings to I ife the atmosphere of serenity and peaceoi welcome and personal attention, that is Japan
at its most charming. It's somet hing vou can expect
ilrom us, wherever im the world vou ‘re head ine. For we take
Tnii LilAiir.-i.il i- , - h»pjn r<¥pn jr*u srrunia inn w-rid. pci-Mpim Mi :ounrr 15 eirir: F- p nWTWI-Hjn* »f /At :r i-fvjr c i i n^rni
Jfcv El KlXOfUNQ \3H|(4irN 1'llUH .inolflifi rt’flriil
r\ iiri EitStCS hLiJiii ^dcnmifr gales l^nJwiis tl
while ftubm-dai-J ?ide mists* spin re coital shal-
low.*, Aiii«i by a Nation*! Geographic Snctciy
pan i, Dt John fcL B^nrf^TI , It'll. chienebihuiln-
.^.-.i j\ (he Ik:: in-, l P 0 i
"fcl i uif^ Museum of l-hmo
I u!u, and assoc kilts.Ge raid H Allen lee i it e r r jj n J
Dr Bruce A Baker rcccmlv surveyed wafers
ringing the remote Pacific isle. Of 107 species of
Ij-hK recunied J" ooclie mi where ehe, arid 32—iIu'IliiJisIjj hi slid mummed fish of the jsenus
htfu.v ( Eigks —prcived new to science
Yliiic dues helped ihvs expedition add fp ttiaJi'-i
knoWlcdftc. Givc ytftu friends a chance io paj-
tidphiie m such worthy projects—anti Lo emus
i tic G'&'fKiiiAniri each month—by rrmmrtistjiis
them fot EurniherWp 4m ihc limit heluw
l ish men land
a bonanza for science
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC# SOCIETY MEMBERSHIPl “J -
rn UUNQAB Vi Aft 1 V70 MiMH! USH FI' DOES INCLUDE
/ — SUflSCIIPriON ip tH3 NATIONAL GFQCRAPHIC,* Annual dir-T* ;n I
h -I I- '. I
.". ml ifert^hnuLlllr wurfi>' Mi LJ ^ fund* OF rijij;
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i ^irhE |m h'lflipriLWlr Ms# 'Lfrirnidtiiiiuj ihikI^-inH iitrhinpsillflVrTim*]*, ITilrtH" fTlAll ntf CtlEiilnL JXsi f t'unruildjs FiilmS*
t*-i l h acun^rtjtilvr. Jrji M I oihrMiwiUmv^v hV^Vcirl flraihiFniirrnii'
1 infini ntonr- rhJlt. WS ul f!is» in- sLr -i-.mil N >1 Pur whbiuI^ Mibwr|ij*t<rni
1 A> MONTH MIMtamtP: Si | il . j..- wl |iir I HarnIfiirir IV'A-TIOVAi. CLEEKJliirilCi ' IimI^M &t||p ihe jltf> I NT* inti fimI ilJt ikf JhiIsi
mfy I S>1Giiiqr ili> ntom rr^an » I IfH ( i ipnt iwrpilifi - him!m rh Lhw rn.unciiic
for tfl naunl Fie miiii Juh I l$7i}, ! ii^N fk'i'Pffll^T WWtfy|nL| MJuhntfltft
i ile In. mrinCirTr.il is;i”. vi lillw relic wablr jpihllilt> Li.ivh I'l’ir
mnmli inrmhrnlii|h i Fipck limr im*4 FPTT1>1 ' NT* I1 S *fH|5lP mJihino,
WWW. A 1 1 * F ' S lmiilj-nrci|iiii.aJriPl, Pul 1 m lim Irk * 1 ^1'; 1 jMiduii :m"l|l: r * iKnp-|i1ntiFci; fnr islk DllarF miLril rfcf *
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i' in ill i, S‘W i 'iiJbidijii ninth isJMl l N DccfTtini -1
!• i. Gif «ll itjJwr rwril
Irirn, l*l|i Si 11> Vhirk rfirtif I ipt llrliimulJnii.il 1 *1^0 '
'
AliijI P(L I 2n hJ±Jf>
Xur iiiniii ikoifrjiphi' 5ir«'fr-1 ?
WAstllflpflnH. It f fcn ; ri
I WISH TO JOIN H r \ "'t VI 'O-Mil-'.m
Society And tn“cl* |,| P' fwy dtufs.iL —I Fill m -d IHI *
lOJ-rt MEMBtttSUIPl|
• Iim-.j:. Ill nil- ci
$ _ kir i Eiii-
fit tJiF |HT-.jifp nanvi'd
uF h-l L ..SninS -n ft i an I stffrrrd
i NO Mil NAT l -ir -iii. ier. u s i. ubn ! *- 1
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NFWWEMP.H
WTKAMI
•iTr 'hA* > Ti 1 Wr Ik If Til . ’is-i -kp*-
itHirl II : El !
fk r *. iufi iir c;iur . irr ir*-TT fir ~ra-.
Give s<mieone the best\l m;i- ms jis jf everyone who has a Bi,L Dav it in
M ;
i y or June, So ibe main quotum now s-v what Idadnr Rifr you vjkal kt watch vpfprutic unwrap
Did you ever watch anyone unwrap ij Polaroid
Laud ctlUffll?
I he Cdttdvfnrk H. umler S30,
BeauliCu I color pkmrei in ;i mi nine, a* j beautiful
price Elcdronie shinier and electric eye i ur uin-nidii 1
. cvprmim, Sh.iT P llR'^fleiwnt Sen L Built-in
fciMi tor 4-ihiJi flashcubiam
The Moik'l 32u, under $60i
Hie most ccpnombL m our popular line stf iuld-
ing Coupled rutip* flnder-v ccwflrujcr let* youfocu^i a* you Electronic shutter and ctzcirtc
cy l' read and 'el npmu^t JimonLiik'^lly—even for
fthi/ili Detachable c.sjiitrj lx*vat and CurmnjS it rap.
ITlc Model 330, Under SSfk
A lut more gifl for a little more ntancy, Built-in
nici-’h i mc-i^l livrtr aiiton^iikally telh you when yourpicture'! ready. Tramhturkjed ekcljQtifc shutter. Fre-
ese triplet lens [hat can iWe optional filter!.. Dcutfilr-
imi*gc r,i n jLL€hndcr-vk'AVrfinder for £a*y focusing
The Model 34«, Hadet $ I Op.
Une of Hu.' mu*L snphisfkndcd camera* you am&pve for under $100. Talces Indoor -white
Hhtyi* without Hash Built-in d*\dopmsrl! tinier. Fold-
away rjLti^efitvdcr^v irw ftndcr , Four film ipredrings Handle* u whole lhjt or aceeaSOi ie* ^uch a*
Brought to you on belinlf of hopeful brides, grooms*
dtitUMlp and pun fail altnahEneii
I Ik VIodd 3 SO. under SimBow automatic c^n ypu gel? Bullion electronic
timer \lutu count lc_s ,gni(kim-Liif4lih when you pul E olii
E lm: film p^kcl, ’’beeps'” when your picture is per-
fect I y developed Takes uul-Qittilic tmw exposures. .1 p
sn |0 second* Hleeirtmlc shinier ^nd electric eye.
Single window Z£l^ Ikon riingcfimlc^vicwfindif.
H a (i iJ^opc ; 1 il -mes a t bod y w iib brushed c hro nnc fi nish
1 hr Model 3hfl, under $200.
The mail sdl-sufBeiem camera in ihe world- iSniip^
or declrianic flaih. (At I / ttK 10 of a second ft can slop
she HctitJTi of a tcxsisge party* 1 RcclurjKS on. ordinary
house current. EkcEr-onie development timet sturta
counting fltuom.ifkally when \ol: pull out ibe fltio
pucket, “‘beaptT when it’s developed Triplet lens and
Zcem iknn range ffnder^viewfindtr Four exposure
ringCS- Two fCr color, h*m for Wtttk and while.
The Big Swinger, now ctift least expensive: model.'
tilisek-jjtid 'White
ihhts in sevondf- A built-in pho-
tometer rends' fVcs"
when the e Aposirre's
perfect- Built-in flash, itu
focusing
Once you've dedited
un the right one. the hard
part is giving it away*
gradually, fathers and mothers everywhere. S,Cil«1 flint" nr-4 '-SwuifiT"
1'
According to the roadmap, they dtouJdbeol the Holiday Inn in
Klamath Falls, Oregon, Now, if they had a Gulf Tourgide roadmap, they
would he at the Holiday Inn in Klamath Falla.
Gull Tourgtdc Service will ncth! you a Free, personally markedmap of your trip.'Well showyon points of interest oJopgtheway. Or, if
you're in a hurry, we'll get you there by the quickest possible route.
And when you pull in to any of the mure than 1,100 Holiday Inns
throughout the country, all your food and lodging can he charged on yourGulf Trovcl Card. (Not lo mention gas, (til, and other services Afllovcrif^OWK julf Stations in the UJ3. and Canada. ) K
Dr ive in to any Gul I Service Station and a sfc for ti Tourgide LRequest Card and a GulfTravel < ]«rd Applicu lion.
™
Well get you there without getting you lost.
Gulf,The Travel Agency with I'umipg,
nTTrr*^j |
ri
:
1 r* 1 B 1 mtn rl
Bet on it!
Nevada has as much contrast
n
its resorts
3.1 it does in rts magmtaml scenery The reaprls of
Lss Vegas are cdies m ihemse^vsiJ labuldut
O&ste with pal-m ire-& lined gall CGimse-s
lepus courts glamourous trisahc rosmurantB,
swim ml no poot£ and sunshine, sunshine., sunshine
Fkmo 035 a cosmopolitan atmosphereeonceTiimiing its hne hotels m the center of iho
pldureBquB city Out the window one sees
I he high Sierra :iomq mil! a rdf; Hying pail, 0 wmdin^river a blanket of irees Down among the lights
'he- nightljfo (it ratling And on the outskirts
WidteS ore casual and retaxed
Late Tahoe's fustic resorts are hidden amongI he trees and ha lino new hotels Stand on the shore
wth ttio Late m full view ui&icfeaviary windowAlpine flails ere iucHed away near the aimas.
Tner visitor who Travels Through the stale
Hnos I he chatm of weihjSfeinSiimad old hotels andcharming western •iodgmg whf^B r'anchttnl
gather to talk big deals.
There s 3 r^ors 1or*vn-y taste, every budget,
every season m Nevada
Bel bn ill
"P P* T !'¥! 1' P 1 I ( I ( P P P + # ff » 1 P » P
I Write N^vgpa (or Rf-crflSliisn I
* Bimt Gppitol *
Carton Ciiy. Neva-: a 0ET31if- *
: name _ :
I ADDRESS
4 CITV . *«. j
I STATE ZIP _ 1
Pto youf winning coirsbi ration of
recFea Ilona on ihe whe?l fCJtfiJe youri^hfjigej Well send you complnse mfnrma-Mfti and = FFIEE vony nl Nevada Highway?.
1 ft FsrM MsflBriTit P=?t en it,J
damping
h £ I W
q
, QiOtTJ 1
f'-P^D^ra
Chort Towns
Guaranteed loss-proof,
theft-proofand fire-proo£
Or your money hack.
Lost cash is a lost vacation.But lose your Bank of AmericaTravelers L heques and you get a quick refund. Anywherein the world. And for the full amount. This money^backguarantee comes with every purchase — together with thepromise that you can cash them wherever you travel. Money-Drtck money is sold by leading hanks everywhere ami it’s
hacked by the world's largest bank. Ask for it by name:Bank of America Travelers Cheques,
I III I i h fa h | I
Leif Eiriksson slept here,
Now it’s your turn.
i
1
_ A
?L
*
Find yourself in
Newfoundland and Labrador.
along with giants whopainted themselves red,
British privateers,
Spanish buccaneers,
Basque whale-hunters,rum-runners,
Amelia Earhart,andthe entire 21st squadronof the U.S. Air Force.
C-arv'rKliM-.nligp Byiklirtg,
it. ioihfi'Bj HftwfauTMjlarHJ, CanadaF-Btoe r.i:rid tfW krarBMmU&n. Oh: C-ula-=i Q damping jF’Pfring Q Hupfon|l !
j-Qcr.Dral tf-MBtlon PflCKngft OName . __
xPibisib Priodi
AdcSress
City^Town _
Zonnj/Zip Cod-8
Pfcwmc estate ....
HG-ur
Its toughest competitor is an old Gravely,
a good lac* at Ihol il l
?QTn-fl^ibrrT hp* W*rjp r -.=1
rhsm vdu'v= t o-=-n itill ti*:i ,j uted
try mii^PubOM. pr 'lianiO'na-li ! «igh r
wav dflporbriaf^t aw3 ijodcttriti
'Wvrt GiP^Hy Ifpclon Iptr rrprrgpir
oi rh •= \zucft i^hs :!- “sri * il- Th-hy
lo&i *£ lo«nj bscuiia* nid-tc-
i^e-n^ k; Cant.
Old Gtc^Hv hftctori gr«
leu^h cgwnper»FQ.r-G S-L-t iur newGravely (_ jri viirlihlij 1 i^itT
P" fi rti1
1?
c • n br^or They deljver ih-*
preyed oidvEttitii^er jf uH-^o^r
dti^ir fn,p belli or tftarmJ iniFpnS
forward, rieM^dl >i i Ph 0Hip d I* n f. Ir-vr-f o vnr-* tv
ol nifick cskan^t* uMOtlirtmfil I01
w, 1
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pi uwi f 3 go r dcqi r- t rju
itip. moth i « n i.‘.pi i .ij 0 th-oice -.-I
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luitt 1, ill “ -!V;frk 1 inH it
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Uanltlllorijffil <gjv«h in lyiiijcri Ofi tffcc*
IQ and 12 hQWfldwaf TrartOn
FSf'di* M vi *eiiil y : u j
cofaloq Tin Grcw^iy C r nv^rl-Tj-'-
tid<n 1 I ryt ! rr. onj m. n y;i-:
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cl yr-ur GrpyeFy deo^r Wm-bi3w. G (tN*V Co^poneti-dft,
Craw tan«. CrBiwne^i. S' I.C. 2TO1?
GRAVELYni'^uu a * »o t*.
The1970 GRAVELY ConvertibleTractor.
ffe[ W\u pcD!-tic 2 pctmrqrd fur yzr*z
i ftH fftwtf'i /mW W ftfrM, WlffWi W fl./ / HPjr ,<J
jfif jiiii' fflfmftftf iriiit't'f nf Ki'attf hiif pi V'it ml .s .
r,
Hfrc m iv /##&/ *jf p|ft yrw - '' /iffrf fwn7 iTM/^fniT
fi? on/, dw fish top €&tf rJmpjfA .rfaf</Y af/c«.c fife/
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/< Sn±? Yut&mr
fltft& tyuitrt fuita-hitfiirflk'* ufr\Ui(c
1970
'VACATIONLANDS"GUIDE TO
NEW YORK STATE.
New "Land oi Contrasts"travel guide contains 96 pagespacked with useful informa-
tion. Where it go. What to see.
It lists hundreds of his lonesites, nature?] wonders, chil-
dren h a- tractions, boating andcamping facilities. Time sched-
ules and admission fees. Hun-dred:or it now
olorphotos. Send
* b I #> « + 1 4 4 4 4-
Jf-nld but*? , , djeii etupLci at tape ut bail'd!
n
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M- -CL i -_n
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(3 =.itc-j _j _— n if.Li, £
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1970 TRAVEL GUIDE TONEW YORK STATE
St>ir quid*.Jchirr pctifcjiii alDJii? fiBffqlnilE'rt
H'il lci qaiVinr ikle and mail torfiry
T-.~\
ocapj
££O
w ^£- tu< O ;
^ u
ffi
UoS—
J3—
i
H
asD
PSO £
s£m taZ Q ;
cs*
XTME O—- CT"j
E? '3*
£ K rj
§ (§y yB rj £'S3
Anil nrmoird i r un^ llj -u , might lift
hurt Royal again from the sftiL
Nearly liiree cent tines piraseil
btftrtt v.-jj anehuftsd o^cr
the if !« «1 where Puri R li y 1
1
1 fcr.id
billed I ins incraJihlc ship wa*de^iplied cipCC^> for under-
water arche 1 > 1 1 « I ' v I "d w i <1
A Link furnod mvcrclur of
tvfelion'v Link trainer
Equipped with powerful
Million hoses to scihj fh he silted
'.rii huttum 1 1 id with moderncell u-sou riding: devices e^i ' sec'
below the woler. Ar+i OrVrr
proved LLmqudh able 0 * unlock
Che -vecrL'l'i uf the Jruunflfl erty.
Working wrih yellowed
rctioid-v in pinpoint lamhoariss
I nnp, huned in the die
J ink csjwdilmru spurL>orrd in
pari by Hie Naiiomd O^i^mphii;
Slil 3 civ. titsi went abunt prepar-
ing a map 01 rhe eiiy as it stood
before like quake1 Iih'l! mapped accuMlely,
port Royiil % ruins gave lap
hnndietK of artHkcl* 1 i>
L ink's silt Jets arid divers
—pljues, plutttr^ nod
kit ehen ui^tiviUn tin?
cupper put w till its
turtle and beef honey,
she watch wboitc
V :i nisi Led 1mi id s lliisl
Clthcd nil -nur Lmliflg
uinriil ihc rhomerii
ot ill.1!lister. Ami
a_'Jiiy pipes .und rum Kuilci
i iimL^h h' LniEieiiii: tlldl lIil'
chief 0 ecu pal 50ns of tht wicked
»iJd dly rtius-c have -been snn^m^LiTtd ilrirtkitt^.
A*. r lit; t nribbean hiimenntstmstui came on. SVaj flfoer
pulled itWiLii ui siiter wiitci's
with 11 wejrhh l 1 1 Linn
on ilae liftf titid time^ of L be
old pintle haven wtieie one ut
li im 1 u:'s 1mpion ii'S. H lifuE i n
Mtttaon fc find tMtce served <i IiHlN
as j y oung Lkuicti .n^ Hot. &a
M r. Lfeifc sumrnun/ed il. (hi%
wjls ’
"utile a begmning_,J
“"S iirnk of Lite tlLUI'S££ .
~llL'
satdpifc
lhe shops, tine king's
siurchinisc. wardttMiJve^ ships
wtiieh s£ink jT ihe dot;ks..
Surnebod> will hcuck
(hoc and be rewarded with
hueb cm nnn> uf artif^t^ and
riches iis to rnqike nttr effon
seem trivial
l ew leaders luc
well equipped a* EdwinS.jnk io probe ihe
murky bottom
off JtWrtnica Hkil 1 he>
do tifid endianEi^difUxtion it: such
csplonilrotl^ inln 1 he
ami SO ELU'U
euch month lci
travel the colntfui
pa^c:. uf btAticiN/U-
l i 1 i miRjSFuic^
16 L)2 must have
been u ^hurribje
h w^i,, in fact, it drcndfid year
for the thirsty owner os uu
onion- ^h-qied wiot him It like
this, line retrieved ummensdfiuiti the ita boiEom sHlj
i al-
nuivL HKI year*. Ith eonients.
whd Mn inquisitive disei ."t^teif
like strongly salted vraepr."
Nlu' was 11 .1 year for the
pnss,p*:ro!is dli/cn whkUe tkuml-
some br-i^ wntcli hved for
eternity rtie imwiicnt liT disiLSTer,
ttr rnr ihe iitin^rv puXrmis of
James Lilltalt.Tnh
s iuvctn» whose-*4V‘i ir> Eii nc li of ht^f hiis iJ -i u \ i
Srlew remained forever in ii>
LdppCJ lioofc puL
For [1 to in 1492 ihut Po,l
Royal Laiiiukm. n roaring, wkk?'
upen M^purl. hub Of bfew1 w I.u Id
ccimnierce, pErdlc hcadqiELtrtery
k nou rs far ltd Widci US the
wickede-ii city In the world,
stuidilercil ddktBilc'ty. lure lied,
Iwaved. amt did majesi icidly
into the blue-green t arlbbeiirL
Ewq ihokurakil persons .tml a
way of life peris hed w-lrh (he
drowned city—-entomAsed Jn an
no-ian[ of time .'lgairtRl the
till) when other meiu Peking
lo recon^tnivt an er.i of to
>cnr:
-vn.fc_.LRir iliH tjfcic.1 fM|~Li S. *i rJTniCm
Ti: understood tn o birth gi ojsir no lion, comf Ip Ptonn&yiyani i
where Itberty bsgarr Here, in fhei^aurnl Highlands, the
Qi tU&h, seeking contra! of Ame rhea's western frontier.
repulsed F'rrsteh £jml Indian Slacks qL Fori Ligonier.
The For I stands today. beau El folly restored, comm rung
same or the f nest n‘Uf.< m existence From Independence
Hail In Philadelphia to Gettysburg to Valley Furt)B to
Fori Pill—at! across PennsyEvonra, greai moments of
history echo Ihe ppil Conie see it. Bring the kids.
Tnir kitwHy fttrli * an15 July 17TS, to
itihflurie.c I uh rs-Bding a* 1 +ia Dsel-ar .^ti-on
tjr i rre S?e tftpm Qolh-fit
l^d-npf^d^ricfl l-Tall in PT;ihi,di!l^hi£E
1 no- Utf*? a! r " CJv-l WiiT lum^JJtl Gpll)tbMig ! - I'a 51
i-ln i nn 4 'ul C^nk'Ur'f ."j r CiltLiJiJl
I ii! H Wh: i e aU lifil e> d tn ... H 1 1* 1 Itfi
SulNe. T gudSi'.you fcin ^:i»K
nvhcr* pick^n ehm-ged,II 1 * ^.Bnnf-nr, Hand «& Fieri*
L rwsalr slocd ir d un inn'nn-j
h 5!&hT (ts ndvCr
Send For Free BooNkf
Lju.ic.2u of Trawl Divola^pment
Htnn^yhni™ OHpifrfnikit rvl Gnrrrnrrcn
RflfiftmTW, F-n 17 120
Fk-dss &e!»d me tou r turo b3dkl#t,1
pfl nnT,yivgrfcLtt / f nfl rft<-n (
' ’
Hftm4
Add esa
Cihf
SDalp
PENNSYLVANIA EXCITEMENT!Rrh-mzi-ij P :,i-irH flaw* f M^iirnjfi*'i*lth ~i i
!*firrii
Harlem F'n-ji Is lees' Llidfli Hirer vctirs nlrl
It has its home initii nkl siiperitttirkth There bno other independent school in Amerjcn Quitelike it.
It iin school fur i|i'a <i>MLit-» It confrontsthese dropouts with Quite achalleniit' You can't
fpM :i diploma from Harlem Prep until you are
accepted by a nilleyj^.
So far. 1 H* students have been graduated
and hfma "tituieii CMljts.$te, None has frilled mdropp’d out.
Some record
When you visit Harlem Prep, you pet aniokluiif <>t what makes i: tick The re are tin
a alls between classrooms. Aml almost rm walls
between Teachers don't justt lecture.
StMents tlfln i just listen; They mix Theyaryue They Li uyh A n r.l somelimes yen i hunt a
* WEhmSJiamam r - j -ibiKHi
« ¥ » 1
f “}
jr ar^.
.
^ jiw
jfdr
Ubi TH>j ™ J
every graduate goes to college.
burst «[ good, healthy anurr.
lid Carpenter. the hcadnwsier, dm 'Si'l
|)n‘tt*nd that his school has all the answers. hnhi :T But he fines belttvrdini it is providing
• istall haven ofg«t»d sense where t eligio ns rind
rates, - tiidnidf and tcarhers run pit togftlwf
and Irani front one another. Tlnm reach rlteir
own concTutpons
UJiaTly. a ijnt" 11 rfi d tiiii be learned
m i-jcfii-riiuehtui school like Itaffem Vrtqi. Ils
good work must commu it. Thfe hikes support.
J ersey Stt m la rt 1 i&pt-i >tiid in I iuvviif i n itletl Mime
rjl it.
Standard Oil Company(New Jersey)
We think It's nice to go home with
tingle, Jn fad, It*s about the nicest Thing
belter vei, ot Canada's liveliest live
theatre.
you could bring home from Prince
Edward Island.«*- * 1,1 ‘
You get that tittle feeling when you
walk a mile down the beach. And see ond
hear nothing but peace.
You frrtd it in the countryside, when
you find yourself soothed by a serenity
that's b^ert there a long time.
IPs at the historical sites. Awe
inspiring, and romantic
You can even gel the tingles at pur
horse races. Or deop-sea fishing. Or
Came and get a little memento .
A II tile bit of P.EJ,
And you'll a Iways hove it.
Prince Edward Island_ -
“• “
CanadaPIe-O** IF-Iil ftt r ftiuf f- It-* P*d tfrpH Ihrp?-
'
hA^>
jfc&D*£&5
CltT STATE II#
Afifl ^d-TNe D rccl>GP #f lintH Edward1 Mcmi i nr* it Tiui bdh,
TOC Oi4ki1cii-hfeip.n-.fet, GiiJlife
>-lir Ci ilhE whitii iZur t-iffeifr?E:1iii - m
Don! hi fttuiihcr hi/. Lr ^-umv v.u< > wnted >. GtrfvTk kvn--
Ynjpiv .iifiinr iii b: HtfuiiJ^ ft? .<prn^rjj!i tij tiyk th t u St? rrujfhV ^Jrqfarirj rf (.Jiifrlhri "Spiirf Jjmj FttQttfifrJ if fiW rt-
Mjiin ii.jff/d'Wf ititftk'ils n.rt dirjiJ WftJtKVl/ cKjpiNrfNFrjr ihhi^nftnrntp. A'*-' ifiWil'f Ifi'i'll imfMY>?ifJ friF i .i^u'iW*
ffHtjyijifcJti1 ^diiJf rtptihflhti iir fmhi'l Hmib WW( ihif-k thr f’fW Uttie Ji' tiiSfcfprr faf utility!f u'Jidl fjh1
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- f itnrltffii mill* lift ^itrL tfJii
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*—
"DearAmericanTourister
:
You’ll never believe this one’’
Wi? WikUp if, W-3 bt j
ftcwivMI llffle w-p buifd an ftjn*?ntan T&ttiaci
Stfil'CHin wr [i r •vimi frjr ihi: w£rlP
Se JH'Q i -Hry '• q : « wv* budtl 16 ij.il c^c.hl iJrOr'iJ ma*
In 4jl* trough IC l.BEf3 I Itc-ip mngduilQ wW A Uv,
tdf n ?0 iffii:h
Wp J’rtrtf^rcc J wi-'ih f-bci yJaiii 44 JI cftpef, nol jua> on
1h<? otjrns-ici To prar^igl il whrn il *niii iron y£?i*i l«!lh
Hour H-C=£^ i&Qfti wiftdo*
Wiiritqp pfic *holc cbiflg^iPh 3 it'd ini Sl u il5-pl
l-rmnn A-nd gwi ) HQinpriTf rj: Iciuta rfwl v*l;!i I j |^. 1
1
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ttpisn m5d whnn people- lilfl ltiii H N Dan ma s zs? McAlliin,
Toia& ao iirjfdiflg m Mcncq amJ ih-f-^ v^^.Icin -gr
GinlulHa OH *Ot- of AjfeprlQQJt Tijui il" Igtiqnp*
ahtd rhi7|i igtt < n 11 ir oH rorlP hdsu -
r
(rvorYiliLran isniide
W=ll I fT y pndh cfly C-'kay
W? <,rj w-wh Ihod a 1-tfWar iiQni s-Oii'-a Jjijup.ld ip. Ftiiiii-
^yhtiinia v^f-Git ha^!T> win prDir'pindy dirinn lull'd liy
o go hc-qir-i r¥pl&p.ipr« llhrfnr all fhei -jgr jhay
'OUniJ 'hi? i Arriprirnn Togi^S'- Iftljjc?
Bui fhal t onelhfir incf-Mibls ad ’ I*
tiiP'ili
WHy noi vi'iii f^rclipn uy?OriH >tjij Jnn t h nv -2 to mfiltF T
«
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: pfldpuilaluss) CjihihLi don't Uii^K 4.gocTTirkr d! ijn.Tfifr nitodbpriJfM I o r tiflTh
i^f|. JHU *Vi? i!C€‘SUOCtfrig you Lei ns
gjvu %'Dij j sample Wt-=k^p. J
Ar« tdfiy ddiy% dfTva Srorn tipiiotc
New V C' r it Ittr iha| iMrca. i" I fie
Hnnt.j^ Highway (lul l-_ j U-, .'Oil
fn fnench C ;in»a ilia .ihcS wffsf 1/3 Elld
Upper Cur'Lidii /Vfln;] it. y in'll ,tir
ctwfll" Tcvonlft, bin o3?¥ sii0Nisiremj|.1
timy ah:J mijr Ififn
And cftfl«TmPQ;*oaprt
IU0. 6 .inI GJittWAy Idini? TKiys^nrt
Ijdiipdi. ‘ with t»rijEi leaving fcivi*4v
hnwArid 03 il fori Hhtity. The Gu.iul it
=1 ill EKEcuimg the ds-ilJs und jiidicty
i^lutRs tjf the ordinal H fd ish qut run
n
T hrtir-Ei-
1
ihi wiHflffcnd ctum* hom4 seem a oi S
l
d iu -j up ihruu-jh Bn trap
C jSumb i£ b-.iuf-^Ji GulP Jiil.ifidr
ITwo'iThff'A'Tfl'* - rtIidltiaH»kn*f[>UIrtfm ycur usstsHn se-jabgjFi^ tc» mxr?.
IM^w* Biurt^ fi'zA m N&V4 Ec&litt (it
Pune* I rfi-v/lrd ln3 =ij m :i p* (wnh ;m
a efu d=iy ) f Ji«wP i :j n Eil (u d
,W , idtin t ymi vi mi ui 3n 2 iiJVi- X
II df - jr Nr-t m mnN v'ou a .
|d?li™ f.m 1
Wum lu Sinow 4til.il1 ' Sic youttravel .vgfnl
j*
I
C-vd i/f, j jen.5# .3/dtav. / tfrru1
/.vjrfcrf^ . . Mess ,’ire tha thinqr. sh&tfnjAd
if ^ JKan mftmQfiihfe- Ana th&EsartB fAp
rty'ri£r /Vj
IViprf fi- Anrr.v irtOT 1.ic/,Ti W awr tfuj
zob’fjQn d/iw y..^jr f/iu'e/ p :r;p/7
1
Cfmtduin GovefiirncmS- u rc- u . O tt wi Canada, U^i| -;
J
CCDO ti‘J D
F.'V fl.M .f^?.9 qr ^ y i r*nWI r ’
jlti'l. fo.
Mr /Min "Mii^
Ail CS rr?^i
ClEy
SLuIi; Zip Cod-:
TreesGrow On Ideas...ideas thin lldlp Italy™ enrich tli e soil
around them- -ideas that make Wttf
ori the thousands of msricts th.i! nr-
tA-ck the In ideas that r'lset srnrg,
P ' 'l'.n iir i-.l lj I .'i fi* r h .i r n r,i r v.- ’i
which SJ^ppl-c- umrt^nhnp^Sy li irr "he
lieaKU of their trees.
Like M fhany things in our chanpmg wdild, ihaile trees In our cibeiincl suburbs are heznminf’ mofe andm
o
t c dflp ? n lie n t an stJ e nti IJc research and c-are fn>r survival lor
more Mm m wxly years Tnfl BarlXtTft^r Ren^artTh Laboratories havec n riT * i Ui :* LtS I'/ bean developing I^lol
from p Ik- u^je-r i mental Tn fbe p;
* QT\ s^iKr hrpuidmg Burflfftt field
men with She sal Litmus fp individualshade tree lirebtern-s am! the kt«l «ti
tree cere iscliiuqu**.
vpn fT-e t c o nipic t-D prol ess ion al
serjl47^ (Pal f-xlen-ds far beyond locji
nDw|ecllH^
, when yau pi.t your t"oc&'O TbE 1 1 Jfml s ot a EartleTC T-rer £j(
pert, He Lt A tnCMntdari skilled Ip
expert diagnosis find framed to ApplytpE [prhruqiies- Ut've loped by our re
seflEqb ideillrSti lo reel pn a | cooditiops. That's why ii will pay you the
tune a Uee problem arises to
cmnsoh you i local BarlJeli Ties E*j»rt
Anyone want our
new 20-year
F^r the nejct qo n pr a-
{ sort, nurn^wWaitflK ^ n ri ieuio-iflhh
fieodarr fe-oTT!
dishwa-.hmq
Wii q^oronlue It
in writing fot 20 ^u?-nr] qm ] t failure- due to
CCirGirOp And nobodyeke does
WJlnt': rprilamoteent? All ihe coli-d
itarnlHvitael parti wheia the water actionnappEfli*The taut. Scrubbing and rinitrsg
OrlYlfi. Inzi rrp door* And bctskol sSidfimails.
Th t? new me-dsl has,
1 go. So ypyCgn rail it druuhd for th© find few jieai-;.
And + hun build if under the Urcktfncounter ^ken yau t to itve it apermanent h Diri e.
Go nkeod and bnby younefk VotefarWorte 'Cing
ClT’z» 1 ? ri liini —^ p IhnF, fdmnPur'J. (hn-IjtmriJt ILmUarbrtar^' r - A f • p«>i imirfcr^ OfgMmitTi-'il QHirii H nil tx Flpr!^ -j-:I
i ’“ii mid -Hjahpmii
WASTE KING
UNIVERSAL
PrWi idti 3| . 1^^ Ch'iIm - «1h* ;"i:rn 1 1 ! N >i<i Ini j*- «
Cfrn«co fH 3fl- ar 40-m rraWtt*— ASiauhrranls lit ail ttuelpi*-
hi-tt n-hp moder ^7 UluePrSlfitl ? hp media! 73 *i!h rr-D-war irracfirn^n!
Mij^oaSp rss skip iFHSWfhg—hp mndi! 1 I 2h zjjfllTI l#&1igh! apc^.'s
u 1 j £>.- Alla*: h * t h 1 a warMlii^trnkd an I J-np rwK-nl 1?7
AttachnWfitji |q haul pi cm of pNril
war king v,iv-. 2 iU hp m^HWl 106Tsoft tag rads JQfid iiti flf lreocri
pawHWtf uyLlfl ii IQ^hp mci>.j!ti- 1 Q »'
jt
jir
t
V
FtW
Who builds
a tougher
or longer
tractor line
than
Cub Cadet?
No one!
Take a dose tank. Vox’ll see
[iLTW ^ Cub ('
LEtl-U S Si faUlU tfl
out I rwl j,rj 1
1
l\"r ork a 1 h i- r&
Fuli-1 on pi h ch l"i [1 hl1-b 1 et
\
fifljm1 iibsor L ih ahtfek+diat tributes
wei gh 1— hd py iiii •|>orl a. l tjda-
nn ms. IE^avy ru&E-irrm j-rilta
bn utii tig protects front end.Masai ve- big- tractor typet ran*mi flatcm 11nd rtsiir-aitb
housing i>ul Iasi belts or ch/nn
driv^, nmi tough l-boam fitttst
4ikL- is built to fcei«j ill
Chocoti your powerdw fm: 1
$is iww models tar 1070] 10- B
rj- and 1 S-hp with rn>-
shifi hydrostatic Lmissmiesiion*
I Ir1
'!
1 k 7-. IQ- or I~-b
|! riii:
1 or with :i trsnsn^a^oii
More than fif) 1 rm mr-maU'hrNlusipk-iticnU^
111 very Cub r ’ndtst gSvura youmany i JtdiutfVfc- features pi oh
every ndvanCe offered im iTiie-
s ore= t rji. I it y . Soe you r Cu h C :idc t
dealer hit In Yellow Fspost underMowers” nr "Tnidorfi.T
FREE MOWER!Sae ydur dealer
INTEfiNAIIDNAL
HARVESTER CQMPB.KYC-''i:sigi'i IMir^'S (rib'll
Cadet is for keeps
wm '
wnere ^nistory is arouna every corneriviwrf rQR f ftff iMpjrww si1;
t Council. 6J2 Jk^rr Wllb.aaBId*. H*mSl IVitbliii. R I 02315*
FOR YOUR SPORT AND FAMILYv>
111
* .*Vpi w Ol-LFME i>F|’a’! I lIiiibii
LJT? I fcs*- li. sun! ^
n^lilUl^ «tf* MtlBif Mr»;ai Enrfl, - | |« It 4|r
I *'i• ' I ieii hn^ I N i
"Tii r 1 r- "P" Nil 2 |BK1fc-r- H| saei^lNi Rlll.r
:*.'Vr i
nV|i!n!n
TRAVEL CRAFT
ff^Om
BASIC KITor
Fatretr ^'LT
NOW lfffim '
I
DAfftONStill
Nimt
ACTION CATALOGSTARTLING
facts & figuresMn 'l c-a itp a n 6- odd re**
g ». FOtflOtCORF. &.170ChwrltHisfl. C 57^05
|
I
F
fc
-^SiAU
§ee what made
Qfta uE liff-r #Q U-t rfUlffleti™ imp* KI.HM Pilitorif jfcahhi
In 22 bihil(|iiLytj. hUiu^jqlJ- in &Etjpi 0 |- tlfvdu^riQ’iL A/iEiipM!
^i! . t- Ill'll "i l'i-:|-r!h li ic_. .f-r- i i r • n -
- - r r.j c^|i|,i ,|
'
hs&by GclInchiKin n am 1 nracn T.ir^ -nnrr ^ulldingt ir
•:!iiai! ini: nn !rlacb;rjM l^rinv tKpnr.i ^zanr-n MPtf** i*pg
i Stora: P-aneer Pjilmod Dipo-t t^virything IhqL mid*Aiin"'! ii '4 M'in fcduili ll/M ^iiid'l Id 16 a L-d irpIl- hMI» loti
i «**« Wdh#i ii9ljau*jr*1, c^Tr^iqroiind^.
&i THLOu f H- 1,1(1^ if i -e. 1,1*11 Pitf
fttp 1
b is Ld *ur io*ii * iirY j .
Wrl^i Fik *fLLE -DUM1
pl&^uti ia~d*r
PIONEER VILLAGEMlrtden, Nebr. 6B95-9
Be where your kind of fun is.
Never mind how far outYou've got a Beechcraft.
I .ike the ume thni bduftgB to you SpcmS it tin
yourself, mi the highway. Sptmd it Oil the Euke of
I he ff-ki ski pc* Be '! Hi'- big ii.tmc or down liti I he
dunes VtRir Bwrhcruft Mmkcrecr gels you in
itlifft t*M;id little^ men oftdd.
C.OOl It up where the air is etcun iind fresh I be
vfcretltrV h *£fl.-tMiuiUll ^ Ottf Irip a% i.iMllftU'thiHc:
UbEompJlcaicd Cirrus.
\ h J fli* r \ ' nJ "a Killfw liy dC in\% the t ,iie hefm t
fbe tniflk hdow is out of the suburb*
Che best pan is pi tutmg yout Miperufcan neuMiisketcci Sitfwf k wiih rciracisiWe ui^tr, QifrieM-ihcIijI Is find ,iJ I the irstufl. or a fn onh of ft K a nges HjtO
in i Ft ^ i plus 45-mintisc rtitfvci Cm!sc speed is
[&2 mph \nd r he MttsJscitcf is h* easy U> bus
H il is Ti> fly,
i m Iin uvef Ei> sniir 0ewhcr»fl OtWcr and
i he M us ketce r. FfJtff different inodeta— and twn et
cliem eiirt Eve phecpbalie. 3J iek «vne. Get hi ii. S-ee
whan iEic nil-pin freedom of .1 H^ehcmfi i> like-
E lien go urn util lo pb \ Way out
ElJ c c c Et [ I i f l. 1 j F 1 C it r p u : a 1 E o n
M*neaiin^j S^tvicus
R C*rttril, Wtehife N.aniH fiftQl
When youtake the helm
...you've got the bestf
Tac-SoluMy appointed — irtfeliigejiliy
planned. Ihi 5 tiaffdidma Si -fool HtMrgtafti
cabin erunsei" Is (hu Ofis designed for (tie
sparliTTiaTi who la k*h pride in everything
hn own? Wi|h itfi full fill* Vo* borlha. mia
roomy Cuddy cabin is 5omelh*ng else 1
She? bui»! of hand layup Hb-jrgla&5
c^nsli u>c hen 1 it most the nigh
quality standards, ci wprkmdPStllp anti
tftfcl specific miens ttiat ‘have ^w^ys heen
synonymous *vilh Grady White Rnjt-ji
for fun...
and gamest hr futfunwi Gbtf c m* yrmf knihrut airy on
liir lioli tUtiFm of 1 hr ivorkf. (.Iuie'I, ciupfan-jblr dtpendaiiEi 1 run fcrj dn^ <n (nmu^ fll
1 1 ». fuv.it illicit1, iilrjir if can bt? r ciu> ichumI uH
iht- I ni.lTIU- A\ ftdf 1
hUl'T jJr wliJt OlhiSf fPLjM. butt- *kV>J |Uk-- vuii
r< j‘*r hiiHju '1 mvwhnrr voqLtw'rh '»tj nunlfKMi^vo nsauriiulU
,P.-U. <*_n 11 1m.1i nki quick ! 1 top
HH*d |l (Uht I' flip it I
I 'link (Jfl ll. Y<mJI mil 1! iKVn £~L.mhfttJ
h
1
Vo Iff Crwll aid jusutllt4-.| m i-rT'a i ir \\ !*
hkH.kcr iPitlil Vtjur very uwn jufeumimw ,n . i
Ltt^k Rld|tivtjblr biie roi:k>. hut: i purl'd ImII
jirnf i.krnk LtimfxuEir^ni. ami iniivyrhifi^l Tjkryi him- hi-ii
i r- i ll <ntl h*x fhret- h h«vh nr m ur Tat r-
%ou« rhuiL i1 pi prjWirf u* i%uvi tlt-Urn
— Hr'! JfltiK 1
1
in nil tiii flpfi Itpt rvv« Hlifin l-p
H .mu 1
(.11 tfui-H- Ihinti. hi in ii. ,i.i i jfld
Uw srnt ihrn H-i I wt^-rs kmj *1.1(11 in - r*- ->|n
Value ii fftrernHy h-gh on a ruyhm.MiI I i MIJ WJill H> knnw mtVft, A\ Vifti Ii .ki- In 4 ji<
i*i J*-K Eu rrtfcikc1 i£ (WC'B EMM^T Wi pra'yfll i.KH
i «hi|nii. ? ill il in quh Uv .iml mini il hnj. Ai ll
rffiri V i|iJ hill * (in if l.ri-.irun jnrJ tho run if
ol mu' infill'd ih*.iW
ThinL rw i? Yrmf vivynwnC u^hrh irl i ijuukhiI
U h-*' 11 Mi.H'
£ usJiPTvnl ***.? WI"N :, N^-r,uK *«‘-U,r.L-# mRU-1 !
P>jip* __
—
A.U--
^Ti — /!*
CUSHMAN MOTORSLmi <!• Vmjjj
.* EAH MMHf •' nuifrunt v.imM i' ^jimM
v ^ -*
" 1 h J' Ml
i J
K -. J * p ^-Tf *C
Why suwp to :i wagon vi>b can't w ilk inttL
Thm- life WafiBtt, Lind there nrc Cbevfoicl Wetlk4n WagOns
with ;i rtiu" hoarding step Just t ht i right h^i£k( And l roof line ^imhLljr on IhE *Innl
jto yoti oti? walk in standing l^Ti
See if you don't also prefer our eriormru^ Ehitd-tfeni titling ro&m in hack;
onr two hucidjerl fifty V8 horaepoww up fronts gilt daw-thru Astra Vtmtihttmi thmighmr
YoufB TJikc cam fort in ti wiilk-in w igun,
Put ting you fint. kwps us. first.
The Parker 75. Because no hand is quite like the next one.
Is your hand j slender one—with
long and layered fingers?
Or a broad hand lhal showsits strength?
Or a seasoned hand— with
deliberate ways?
Or a hand that's voung and quick
and agile?
This is the pen that was mad-' for H.
Because this is the
only pert in ihe work I that adjuststo I in: hand that uwns ih
With a point lliat In ms to an\
angle you choose—and stays there
So when you pick up the pen by it?
contoured barrel— Lite point will
always lie flat.
To write like sii* To skim, across
paper. With never a catch or
a scratch.
Tu lei your hand write relaxed and
easily—whatever its shape,
or ?r* si*e, or its style.
Your hand won't even have to bear
down hard Because ihe solid sterling
Silver I Eise oi Hiis pen weighedto the fraction or an ounce. To helpgive you |usl the right writing
pressure. Not a gram more. Nor less.
That's the Parker 75,I i
Bi* , .V1
M's expensive, ft's $25.
Cut then, it's a pen with
j precious talent.
It lets your hand bft itsclf-
WVth fTT.Ttrhrnj,' sten'/ng Sf/w?r penatnr halt pen, $40 Otftur Parker ppn\
to 0wn or jive,
from the 1
7
93 Sutter fiit/J Pen Jo tbs-
$ 150 Presidential Fountain Pun.
^PARKER1
,i U r; r ihMhi" win It! -i fpni -I wjjtIlmJ \wm
Add l! up. A Pre-S*l Board Itii you create
an unlimited combination of voices and eftacts
before you piay, than draw on rhem at wilt
(No other organ under ,58,000 has it.)
inslant Pre-Set Cancel lets you shift fromone combination of voices to another.
Instantly (It’s as though
you had a three-manual
organ.)
loucn Vibrato is
something no other
organ his At anyprice It lets ytiu
produce Vibrato exactly tne way
a violinist does. Simply by rocking,
your Fingers on the keys.
The Natural Sound Speaker
system is Ibtafiy unique. It
projects sound with a rippling
motion, spreading lone even ly
and equality
Variable volume voice toot Two&I key manuals. 25 pedals.
And you get it all for 5239b-00.It's top much. It's just top much.
The Yamaha Electonc I--5.
too much organ for the money.
O YAMAHAmil’ rr.aElEMtg|l £ nTpf) rjrt In hi
” VjJUul^lh^pr l HTi.dil.pr*;* Oh^ Flw (yip* «Ti|kJ*i. L.X.J W
Thfr E.fn^j*aft of EjBttfltffl j* ®! SfiiraFt rfiflfeja/y.
The Empr,ji: a! C.iM.=id,li oWflf& TjrtrnE emsm*BCCptflmpTJsl iqn in 1 1 in n Tc?
mg*u life enbftffeunmeril arid iniere^tmgpeople The orily tftlferofipB rts Itiut nfsoj n
J ,1 v ¥> f i lijl jfpu'te in Eurn-pfl A c f ui
-
firmsphere prevr-l ^ with y-SmBii, Ewnnimnfj.iinri.'ilajnmeEii and the exciiemefil q[ thip-boiud life. Alltl with Walt tradulJongl
Bntinfo service
T+ie Empress taf Canudo leavers fmmCanada where ypij'H I’Oti i tvmt of
Eur- p6 in Hie World's secancHafjesfFr^nch-apeakln^ n! > HoNdfly ta yaur NdJI-1 iy
,i -n ri iya g e do *n hep ir 1 u re - rj ue
Llwrinco ^>u1e ihen -'-L-foss the All antic
Even If you frayu only Swo ‘week* hniidny-treat ycxLinterr TaVi an ocean voyage, nr
ly-ii^l df-e way.
For rcEErtaSia-n^, 5flrtl3C?you( Ira^Hl agentor ^.ny Cai-iiidbatt Pacific attics.
CPShips
Restive jht'jd ur k jJI whet* vuu |el efi * our jul
We'll pi ck you up- curbside Al the ternun-al maor dashing orange BueMtfl MoWI^ whale you
C Mini y Oil! luggage.
Why pjy more when, in moil
of our cities m the Unlied
Slates ,\r.d Canada we ll renr
you .1 1^70 Oltfc Cm Mass
Chevy Impida or Mmil^i lull-
lilted cat, Luniplele wiih
power sleefing. automatic
transmission, radu 51 and
prnprr Insurance foi only
5-7^. 50 for a whole week
\ including 1050 Ir^ir miles.
Or if you prefer, renl
T9 70 fluids skylark
L
Chevrolet fmpab. Olds CuElai-s, Ponfloc Le
Marts or similar c.-nr for a mere SB a day jnd
tit 3 mi;e" Air tand Jhoming is &bghdy mow,
l ank hir us in lH»- YfllOW MCiES,
U» uur I RLi till - Rfc SE ftVATiON SYSTEM
if- very major airline city ps a Budget ftenhA*Car
city. We'll make a free fd^phone reservation
vnu lo over bJLTO ofTtcs in *he Continental
U..5.A. and Canada,
Call for comp afij fair savings .and few feservj
tiCFns m Hawan, Alaska, rhe Caribbean Mexico
Europe and South Atm a
Nyjn^ to t . arradaf IcHik 1 0i us ir> rhe Sefimnftl
Budget has booths m IS major Canadianairports,
VVe save big money in the British isles, tool
Wr Yurwr taniiMk iir-'r\\ nitin* i H rt B-'.irvch*
TViVAi
(illkl ‘-'ur Ej'iVrs tfedU £ji-trp
Tbm Cttr Ifmrul .Vernr^ n.‘
TV 1H I II nirnrsi Gr^mi'finni"
C Rueitfrl XiuiS-A-Cjr Cuip. «>t Armmci, J5 l W^ikt-f (Jr, CtokajfiT, I M ,feflfrfl
"BIG TRACTOR" IDEAS MAKEBOLENS HUSKYS A BETTER BREED
Now you can enjoy 'Big
Tractor" features on a lawn
and garden tractor,
"Ejg Tractor" j decs cut any ]a\\ l. li ::d q orden
job down I* siter fdeia}? lik-p ptuqfSn attach-
m*nts and a ddictenlLnl dial adjusts. it? match
pulling power \o ground conditions, tdeau like
cut infinitely variable oulairta^c uarifimission
you operate with your fool. And Bolens engi-
neers rad; Husky wil:i all the know haw n\
50 years' eirperlence in prpducmg compaclLr dclorfi. It 3 fom OSSUfcmee o[ lasting qajdUty.
See all eight Husky3 at your helpful Bolens
dt tiler. „,7 to 14 bp„ r faeS5 ol breed!
TeUF hand* duvetleavn ihe »i, Beringw-hpeL Because one-
loft! pedal controlsi or ward, tfvpneOfid dynamic brak-
ing. oaComalfccaily
W« call it a hydro-
static iionamiartiMnYou'll coll it giro*.
TLiet Szlc-ni Hutky Ttd±n
. rCorispnct ticif
"
rid
.r.a and ^Cdlur.'J pa^einiawflTi ' tniiri * tnevLIg-’a1 cni iLffv. rniQb.jos
May f g _o
YUGOSLAVIASix Republics in One
Bv ROBERT PAUL JORDANm
a m -
Senior Ldiitmal Siifl
/ !histrution^ bv Nutitwaf Lh'oqruphu Fh&rogtaphrr
JAMES P. BLAIR
ir FIRST GLANCE, the Suciaii^ Federal
ZA Republic of ^'u^kvifl makss a WestJ- i-erm-r blink Automobile* r(og the
-trrei-r uf this t nmmunki 5iIiie.lv tthopper^-
throng f-lutvs Pruptr invitey(W to their week-l
1
i ill villas hi lji Ltn is. pftdVr Enitlkli Oi .dL other
fore) pn larcua^e?.
The n atlona L et o numy bnoms . YVh h
i
millmtlrtl i rnmework, private fflUerprito Jlnurtdirv
Eh it'- pur -nil cif profit Anri hotlSewivL.* t&m-pLiin about the miri&E cost of 1frrb%
Al second dimce. uiioOiei jiamdox start!**
yuy.- A pfticrftil political rvvulurkm acronr
]jar ce* s he r inmu r E n r m ,i riTt.il uwn\\- t V n i r?d -
iziiuim rsl gaveirmiem lumens, fey deceit. tip
jjmjz. the fabrU uf conventional C cunmutiLxtn
BdWtfr filers to Yu islnvi <ix e411a l npub-Iks. Serbia* Cretin Sluventa. Mnto<]dniii,
Monienepo, and H nsn 1 a- 1 ir rccpvi na [map.
page# S9J-4J.
I tiJive traveler I tfjtrttsatiri:- nfmik'r through
1 hem fcitl, irilying heavily s>n dnitcti-pdif in-
Irrj to help sort ogl ihi- iniiLitnp
variety uf peoples and cultures Language
bftm-ers stpaj^ft: many \ ugoslavs. Bui tbi:
diffurenre.'i run deeper T he fir? 1 unvi [merer
I him! iried To t^\ me ?E.rLiicht.
"My EMi-mJ " he 1 reelarti \ lifting a toi uf
sO'reorrrtf,* the fiery national drinkOy iu wdl
learn thiiL Vtl^pfiUvi liiilcL few thanp- iil
Keiieml tsteeru Hr ticked them, off hl&
lirytrts ^Freednm President Till- andths.v" ^ I j.iiili 1 ctilpeij lii' |.ihim linm-J'.
E Eli ought he jcstiid £ hi the com ran I ?ocm
suWp fie hit the mark Vet the we b nf union
rsriiuiiib? E 11 lj lt I i aiirJ re-iiu-ni in this yoLitivr Eli id
kaleidoscopic nation The Kingdom of l hi
Serb*, Cn ?, it*,iwd Slovene* (.later the King
dom 1 11 Yugdalavla f m n r L
1
1.
-
1 1 fr0m 1 1 ir d 1 it trs-
hles or World War T and lasted 011U 1 ' years
until Neljci Germany carved eT. up. WhenWort 1
1 War 1
1
cue Ied . Cummunte 1 Yi 1 go$|ftv 1awrn horn, the man who had led Partisan ri1
iisiunce furre? to vie lory. Josip Tiiu,
ie inner E as Icxuler of the new federal mti.
History' and m^ouraphy luivr lljl^p c^ll-
spired vnnrlty aipInsE tfie Baik.m-, and Yupgsiavid Ites il Eiscir heiut A miluriil route
fjcEwwn Ki trope Mid Adit, lor cn i Lurie- ihi^
L.iiid !lu* felt the heel uf litvinier* JllYrhm§ E
Celtic Greeks, Ruman*. barbaric irihc: from
•VofoiLiVk jinmnun^rt i- hki ihr ’ h" m isuul l f
Is "icH '
?. L-LTiTTfi-jri1 * Irt hln" ?Ai ninJ '
ll m E i ijh.iSt
’rK"" ilAit e! 1a |ktri¥Th|Lllm4 "'dj,
'
s- ill fd^±:
Stioutijig iUt 'u aiiprovaL, Fhh.’ ;ii EteEsjwfc'- $u\x Stadium rowr
ttdrnllilKi^iy :l ViiBEiukv iiMirt Btofra Jigai ftiff N’Orthcfn Irdsiiid. KLitfi iiJitE
rnp? ictentif> member* o( :v -iJOits club The pnt iihrani spirii anltiniie.*
iili- iliroughuul thi1 'Lum Ii if liar SnuLll S3jw
_
i rapidly ifrVclHptag igfltmft
.jro(ji5 £ ; Kr- rfivcraiti rmbrsKFH Bins tmi republh bill 'M
5-W
Sloven LCI P Croatia. Serbia Brauilu HKftXgpvmA, VfonUnrfTt*. -uni \kicr-
dsruit— a ronipasiu1 uf fictcrly Individ uiiEistFc tliink gritup 1- and widdy dif-
fering iNi'd^apes. Thi?; rfin^Liii nf [ip^pLe^T longues, ami r till Lines sv:t_- forged
into .1 naiantt hi i'iJS. Np|1ttl .VkimJrr Uv llh Vslip in Unrbl \V,tr LI, theft rr-
wplcted “Ti t» i a Communist b_v « ortimr ^liemfla Ifidtr Josip RniEl Lr.ri.
591
tSir Slav*, Turk-, lit) I Kuh^H-'iin-
Troiu main i ou nines JV-ua ha* rtver pre-
sided fur kinu aver these rtcb plains and thick
forest*. these gn-rn and lowered valleys flkrtd
soaring mountains wilhmd end FtghIoeR: hus
played I he sErunger.
TiHito *T k milium YugodJiv^ u-,r swoiiJpliA
11 e: l* . i' euI inure i! I lire retlgioEis. faith*. r.poak
riirec main and numerous uthcr
lamgucs. A melange of minority group* spit
I he ] iF.rt |n i ci rrl of republics: Shipljir* lAlhzun-
-m- Hijii^iiriiiri^, Turks ^li'^ -ii-. - RiilBarrajis*
i j.vi hs W'JTTjuni.in i\\ |r-it^„ and -.|j!I bill its
"How do ynsi nutke a whole nut iff nil ihi- -:
ri4r(Sf'"1
I onte a.* kerf a hml official,h
li i> a miracle." be answered, unli only
i trace at a smile
] liem i* iijn inTier :inswi- r V ii is)jivUt means
“Land of lilt? Spud i SI tiv* " Thr SuiitJi Sh-. -
always conquer their conqueror They love
i hear hnmetand beyond price, having paid
dearly for el
Freedom Lust -and Frwdnni
Kl'i :-
i h i [ v,
r i a I ii a a Li Lu rwitiutiA S^rbinn ruipu-Ei
of Kosovo, 1 i limbed .1 lull momjiiU'itiV rlarfc
uni winding steps I- 1 m u.]I > ui the top. 1 met
mi aged peasant whin told me Ills mime wasKisto Muljett. liiH hair and mu^imrhr werewhite, his eytsighu ike mid, wjis failing Wtliiert he ^[ixh! Imuiinu uo hi* • 4m v ami pr*i -
rn.Ec out jut bleak Kehovo Pelje, the Field of
the Bl cic k till'd.
"Why Imve ypui come hcre:,M
3 ashed, know*in-e him for a pilgrim bul Winding hi- ownworrL- \LTfK£ the bnwl plain tafon us onit blonde i.la\ Lri I .i^'s Serbia had died, titer
heavily otnumhtrtd danders crushed b>
i
1
1 r invading Htomiui Turks Through much*i£ YugnsJiivia people today still talk abend"five ceniunr* of enslavement
"
KWe all come En ktsoVN when We irunT
Sil' replied. "We Eo-i m:r freedom here, mftA
learned what freedom means"In sprmgiijiir wild poppies flame on r|te
baillejirnund,. but now October yielded to
November ami an edged bret-/o n-ar* hd nur
dethei Slowly Mr. Usljen disappeareddown the Stairs, currying his 85 years proudly ^fw0!" ht: called tu mt "Loup live"’
Far "it I tpoul-d see a flock of shetp flowing
over i tic Jtere earth. Soft to rny oafs sailed the
hheplionK- Ehin and lilting sfjmg. a kuiU5Niout i>e tin LL- uriri’i unjcd
^talT ^ riU'i ' ir rtfw W LcUbj^ iteiiTtheJ "^'ueuuEiii-W
Ik'twpf Ii .ifenl WrM" k ii N^TH'V^L i -t nihL.vMndi
hir Hdininry I^Pl
m
Yugoslavia
H rsTDJHn hQJtU ijP iniin;. riiltiires Wynmine -^idp VviRgslavia luib ,i iBUid.^cafK-
t\b varied m lli pmplr and iU puM. Ii Earn^
m nHjmiLujr>oqi Paco w ihr Utriam whereI >jflnmtifl's <aail
i^Js pttdpikMalv
Mi uti ihl.ind^t rrw \i
H.-u. Inland, tli^
IJjimbt: iwAllrtmshrEPU^rh die rauja-
try\ mi rlli corner, r radii as? fertde I'iUm-
liinrti ami mp^dK imjuiLriaJijinir •> idat1
Tlircniuh l«dy vuJJcvj uf i/entnU i n-1 jutElli
cm \ 1
1
!'i ii- 1 .1 v iql vtnaLim- tumble in aritn
lak«. on Itw bnrrfpr* 1 1 AJ Uain.it ;ind Gmjpcp,
CM ll!£fi^MILVT i ^MJTI otf ‘-l rcOrnU RomUk! V IIKft:
7.W 741 mi MlOl 1 ..ITCH JEt. 2 K- . SE;U u:
M^k.. iTaillu in ltif«£itie j LAAil-llJitri ^ -r*rli'f-
C'malliin, Sk^i'itLiiik i u n nF_Ui;ii w.t liri K\ inaiits jmE L'flllmNvJ AliU
Efliuii n DMfvi V! (0 pen^nf wlariihurflf; tti 1
1
InjL mj.nij]iniiirih|- riTifS; Hdgjndi' ipo\uC&VH-'i '-"I'H.iS. nuhLilUi hcdrli:.
"tjp-ITiA HJI n
i lU Litmjn ./no: ?iotU r
M uatu r
ZbI
L5 p-cnti>t
.inln a
Pt4po7^h
WGtMLWfA x
—‘ r ^ \
Bp5p*r '" ^-jjJriii^ii
1 !,f||V rm i iiniA *i
J*1
oi: b #:i- it.
V 0 J V.O D I K
im 1 rt#11
V** JLM I • "
Si- "l'
El - i i-.\ *
M.^th
u proi'i'u*
> NLjq >.j u ^ i
Sh'zvdk r
5<
* Vll,\tViKki'i^
fta£ra#db~
—
Oi'^dFrw'^rf e I ffeifariwrEm Fttl
Fforai *it!- Schniufcd ^iV Srnjtf1
ftjriusAavia's ir/ iisccratac^ rnpuhfici
;\ in,"rr£ i fiirn' Mich . SERBIAI
! ;. - Ln~-
t.fihr IF h r
m
[ r.jj ju"GfrhftniP
fTarfii 1 h"£r'Mlr*
Lb'ju1
[ low l1 \tri \ i irdijian
,I l h u u uhi r >.34:44 j i < n 1 \ u n dcr siiinrSIn \z J hesr
InJui-lK'-rt people nv I|v du dot lamtMil jlE Kosrivn. ^cetir of defenL
They look out on eternity I proclaim I hn-ir mdomit ability Longhv*. indeed
[riti-s- tm? da>\ Hmc lut^ proved I he South Slavs' best ally. Hrl-
jjTHfir—Whitd City provide* a hardv e^araplr. Celts founded it.
itfilurtej I h:fn re Christ, r in (l.s hi JE vhcK the Suva Ksvrr fmpiit!'
into the Danube. Wnrriiie urtnlft have destroyed Be tirade rtuiny
tinner jurft three decades ago Soj. i b(mibcr^ jmiushed ii
[ flew in frotn a^mopolilau Pnris antic apating the leisurely fiftvnr
of ;m Eastern Eviirppeao cii>—and abruptly found rit her wise Mytiixj hi hi iiua prisoner in .1 traffic 1111111, we pulled Op in
front of my bote], f paid the .ini niTt-fcd the tki\Tr j tip.
‘"Ar," said ih;n rnde pendens bo>iiit^mafl + ll friendly. huski Ssrli
ttftw identified hinteeir as Hofei Joksimovid.il
Nn. Whal yrni huvegiven me i* emmgb^
'
l hers a in 1 1 her L"l knew E has tfmt
r
J/r in
&
yvh>. i !
|
0trt si (
in Horn's well-kept Miefi edvi-BenJe ent? I subsequent!) louredS'^A the White City* a tbmbbinu n)rmi|f»]i:% of more than 5^000
A fwgitnp ones oraedWhere the modem i:mr>
jrfex of NVw BelgradeiiloLi-ms on Ihf nytikirU
nf Vujaos! iu,i'- .i-.ui ,*|
i hiv eminent bufkUiigE*.
p.irEtticisis-, hotel*. .1 hh
I
AJ '>^1- 1 firs Ililt 1 - 111, llir‘ =1 !
rii> in ibHl
I^BUlu E-Jjind. in bjifk-
gJtnitMit _s{sEiL> Lin- Dan-ube 1 lid Brlpjwk rrowdsthe smpflgy horUon up-
sp.iimtm ft nil 1 ibt rtrul^Rii
conAueiKr ni 1 hr l tnnubf
and Hiivii kivn-t
V olimtecr pilfer \ tears
iiruunj fur i
'
i m t :j t m: -
1
jmrk m \r-sr hc'JgFUfie
Me.mlwiY ttf l hi* Jnlrr-
i i.-juitili-. you! la hriiiLiik
«
-*irnt fnrm MorirL-TiLpTd.
Mui ttl'miftr .irtri Serbia
Such youlhful rntu^lc
ami riilhtuduci Slave
ilkJi much. iij ths 1 t.i L*r-
Kfidiunjc city Hi-
I
nl the
k£HHJ|i 1r^ I--- Lhc iiial iufi
(.'ifOimynl^L Piuty he j.«i-
quarter 1-—alhn vEsihte il
upr^r n^rhi .4 slit a*f
Eal fyuMiraitELL bekw.
peoph- ihni M ivf- :v- i apiUftJ Imth V u^oda via and of Serbia, We piis^d milts nf tmwI i^h-rt^-iip.iMriie'iiLiiiil ofEt»bud dings loom-ing above reclaimed marshland in the suburbni S't?vi i.Serijo-'Cnjaunn fnr XTewBel^ntde k fm)rew trc risi ng (
jinrectl i na pages ?.
tVuKni^f Ihi’ dim txilotoi piiiJui^: lJji~ruib^ hI
watched a Russian-buill hyrfitrfaO pEtaseniier
l.imil >k i t^race fu LB% 1
1
;.lm, t i i >1 y i I f i
[>v, . 1
1
i< r
f rc-i^lif i-rs In ihv distance, switch t-iL&riac-^
chuffed impatu'iitJv in buUy mtt yards, andrinnke ruM'arled from mdustryT
£ Mat'kjk
I )o\vnlown H pedestrian- piyu alked Ttrts
Mm-rhivd. t rj i ?1 policemen exercised \\tu-
dipuus sufftTancei YjwI Mrt^-
E
li gels Square
functioned as a parking lot
in trui h ( Kr-1 lira r
1e r^ner w ith the pou eirfuh
c itfr i
fili 1
1 1
1
^ i l — ium 1 We h I vm sm d m usic < if htjjic
BiUt Whlir Cin ii pruvnl iwi in lie As, I
*ipi*ed Turkish toffee at -klrWfllk eidespmy
tye.i srmulrd [mm exhaust. ftimes. From myhotel room I toy Id handy distinguish the
ritvs npitQs id rhe darkJim: imngI
r , 1 1 r i _ ,t little Flat Usl oneSaitinlay after-
noon, I told ilit driver, "FiHHbaU i\r u-rern-rd MTibs i Liwri in ,i studium abfiw 1 3 it:
f ki n
u
he S i io pi Itlicerei li tmd rune 1 1 Jike u vcry
-
nniv i-Jmv .tr tirdtesa athletes kicked a soccer
bail-
—
llthJ liftfji each ntlirt—up and downthe 'if id
Ah EnghsJi-^K-okhiK eclairs r beside mekindly proffered a handful id' pumpkin seeds.
I muiached awuv fluid wondered aloud win jso
many crash helm etui poheemcil stonrl about.
My neiKldmt fH*i n terl W the (Ti>. l rni vr crowd.
"1/jok at their fun*-., Wr uuwinrl at snccrr
iz^Lnies Ton much* at
S 1ov i<*s ¥ Di Se utl ii: tj ue > . j i id 1 1 i nl i I'li
h
h i
u
1
1
Peace prevailed this time, and l dfc parted.
A lit lh- Later, at -avtuik EJoCfcl ju^'^kivEu-n S
nibblutl t aviiLj and Imr^, d m ipvn1.' ami drank
\ 3iarr,| i .i. rj
r
1
1
at ft fjttjjlton !m'.\ iulL' ii flarty
Presently sSuh-lhin mode].': iripfied ulooe the
runway dismaying Pariss i.i
-
liinris. mrlttdinE
rough blouses Chic matrons applaudedjjenleell.v.
Thai L'veninri I walked thnuigli ihc I iu^i-
ml/sn iMatrEa W in rJow- shoppers jammed side-
walks and crowded into department stores,
fimnrt shops, and iircailes, A Mean Manini ni i\ ir played m ®m theaiei , Cc nr if r^i ^rc
liVW ut ancHher Lottg-haired
staled in psychedelic di £k&telia$i itiu-.u;
blared frinn striptease cabare b- and Cj y ps>'
>1 met bands Wmm (Lwjri^i.lii:ali sold briskly
d newsstands LimiH fornu-ii at iclriphone
5%
S'vl- Ivin I the governmen t heliiirig
me fora yfar/ n joumatiH told me liiler, ".mdi still cin^ pft ji phone in apartment
"
\ uao^hLv.^ ^howfi'J mr ijiiile unollier pic-
lure when the American a.^tsormui - of \]iollu
X ] —Neil \ \rtrtstronp, tidwin E. AMpn, Jr t
.uni Michael C "nUlft*—ruinr tn town I joined
tlie thoLjhamls Smiiiti the Iopii^ p^riucle muteOverhead fluttered fiul banner-; Ljqhlu-
/oned with u fivc pouihrd star sickle, andhammer ttnd i Pi i! word* “J'tcm riai-:pi sv^HKtMALjA, VfKQlsrrz s E !•—Proletarians of iht-
worli;^ unite ' Xu nnf M*rmed r«' notice ihe
bannerh Utile buy>> iienlied on their fidherb
shoulder?, waviim mihimurr L' S, ftapi, I Vo-
pie jammed balconies and ufTn :
v
wiinjiiw- \
the moon men b>'. ah applnuijed andcheered President Titu saluted tin- ns at a
luutli in 'hi- Y\ hiu PaJncr, ,i binMine wm dfor ufFiitaJ reception
] -et mt address a few w i^frk,1 ' be >aid, “In
our dinr nuesl-. Ihc itstrunaut^, who nun-
• piered the moon and with their j:re3ii leal
pul nni-mksnr] in:tv debt 1 do not like rnts-
t)ueror> on rhr ivarri^bui hold in hich esiteem
iiintiurnst^ nf lelrstlal tnniifc'-
ICvti-ri mif'Si -i NuwtijmL'f in helftrudr
C.lne morning in tJijstaiid nf fir?t-EE-nvrntian.
tfrotmd^ 1 dunned ihe typical Y ugnsliiy
driviT’> blank face and pulled lsv.l-l Itihu the
curb .. Pedefltriiin^ mil'-c way with aiacriu a>
my rented Pi-uireut build uxeil in accepted
fashion through a Exulted crossw alk. ThruI plunged intn themaeUlnun of \ (hk^wnnensl
l
’i:jl-, Vi >lf^B3^ and shin;-. XltThcdcs- Henze>n Revolution Bijutrvjrd
Abreast of City Hn]L-—once tbv humc of
kings and queens— 1 d girted into a parking
place m ibe sidewglb.. more pedes
tnnrv- Everybody park> on sidewalks
A[ »| irr>ai lvi ng 1 br erstw h s le ro> aJ
\in I
qr c
aiun^ a tlrjw^r-burdcmj walk I matted Lhai
in tlie old days all was not pomp and < iraim-
sJance. On a rniriy spring ni^ht in I^Oi. lt.us-
-T''irotor< ssole mm die pudMti and horribly
murdered Alexander (.Ihremivii King oi
Serbia . and his wife PracaInside, ! ,idn;ired City Mult'^ omstte mar-
bled, luHh-i'r: mged rooms, reg.iJ as evor
Tluugb proletarians uUdi-d through them twwmi rirh red enrpets L’p^Lair^ seafeil at an
oval conteteuoe table an llimnetime hoJlDwim,
City Assembly fcidfnl Brnnkii I'l^ii i.nct-
Ikned > fsud^ of life for mrA d^ep- voteind man wlm lutris a neal
phrffiW, hiL|nil lilt mqlLter succiiw tij
M Things
are worse today ,** he intoned wryly, -'titan
they WMyWerda\ bm better than they will
hv tomorrow
Like itiwl Yugoslav nrcynri, Mr. tVlic
jqlld&S It rit| ibflt grows* filter than housing,
julis, focihiies. and 5*crvke> i an In? pro tided,
M i hi* iii I of World War II, be pointed <m1
IW$m pe*¥QJis sc raped a living here anricht
dtfvittuticm- bombs smd fire had leveled mure
! h;i n i i hi Ml of ihe Siuu^e* :md half thr in
dustry. FtWet t h an $
,
000 v£hk I u * ujm-tti U-i I
In Zri year*. he comimird. the population
Una swelled nearly fourfold; industry has
multiplied F.'iimo More than I 00*000 apart*
tnviW ittllL- h.ivr been htuli r .md J ..’o i<000 curs,
trucks, huses, and tram* rhokr the 4m-t-.11We are all ii^wrMiru'fs here/' Mayor Pt^i-.
observed "Belgrade is a va# uijiagp in
great flu*. E\'os3irLS stream ill faster than Wecan m r-.kr (ti(i n-j for ihi-m
Vel nearly half of all Yugoskv^—about
U* million—-dll Uw uti lIll* land. Of these,
ntie out u I Gw works on a modern mechanic er
I
farm The res? like ihelr am esinis, ri-Sti be-
I ri ri dawn and t i J into du-ik or their Ifitle
;
-
1
1
ii -I Eli- wii]
k
I
k- h i nd i>vd nitvn yd 1 1 w -i
j
Itay with a ** yihe, Jfruli up new |m plaints
by humiThe eonnorm tieeib lime to ab’Orb them.
needs mote capital in hfliUI mure- factories
up provide rinre jobs. In fad. mam I ruined
|3er.-vtHi_-H. including unlvmriv grttilualeSn f an
Pill find L idlflij)r work, and in some parts *A
the country a surplus of medical dor lots
esi:d> Half a million Ymjpslavs bnvi found
better-paid employiTU'ni in Wc-I iiiTrnu.n>%
\ustria I taJ y, and i p her Lanr 3 <.
K Serb SkpleW 4- I hr Slav*
W i r Ii sk republics ;iml even more nation-
all tics lo write about. I needed help I railed
nil it hiirpfi driving lorthright jiiumu HSt whoraver* Yugnidin ia for alt mirMKLUosLil wire
M-rvirv How dp Lilt yuppie differ*
"WVrr all Slav-,'' he ^.tid, speakim; lliu i I
English. “shaped by lime and place. Sloven c?
and < roots are industrious meijitidkal. re-
served Macedonian* are |met$ at heart
MiMUtmegritH I : I akt: belter w arri or* than
wo r kerr. R ufin ians and II i r- c vn pvilli an s a re
niiste stubborn/'
And the Serbs?
\hl" ridaimed diir Serb,, revehuinn upon
him '
‘ \\v ;upc sbart-tt ntpererl. r urle h and spite
-
lul \S'e mind tmr n^sghbork buss aw - - WV yt-l
I
mid p ut-jc and make jukes, and mix critics
lmH ljs unc oli th."
i iik mi k h I
Trumlme** and gcnflim^s^ nf tbc V\±&±-
sJ*V rharactef show. J ll th^ foci? hf il-etl-
workei Ibrahim MEHEnuric The ttiesh nuisk
(iryteirb I mu ulnli- tie rrml- -ejytnLr l j!all
fnniurjt.' -ii in Mi-ma Herr Vlnjd-
tLui'iifi lflr(^cnt Firm- and iirc[W{trki jirc»
1
1
ii et! a million tons a yimir
rfiMpxkk smile re.ippe ELFed. "Wt tju-y envy
m for "Lar jirith and itidfipi'ndem i: Wi hav u
-prrit We know how to live."
I hauled "US tp sec for myself In tin- wee
liuii folfowred l found rdredmiy nnsrtL-.T. .um I
a friendly wdrornr evcffywherc Anri »[uc «
>!'
that Serbian spirit overtook rnc at the oul^'i
Ii Jntpyiehi'd this wav. Speeding Along a
Itpoglv :noiiNl Jn toad I tame upon :l wumaii
who flagged me down. Jibe had been 5lrani lerl
when the overcrow 'ted huj. in irons of mehO h r 1
1
o park hrt lip I 5lFJf>peH UL hv? sfipilll—
hiithh iking 1 ann.'- onip In Yugoshviit-
She _'|Kskc I it lie t i - i - Jl_ I i lit enough. Hernom& sbt Was Vera >hc WAS 2$. IjIoIhI
51?
Beturw pwrs m hir hnuiir or
{s|^V-jkl iLii uuEdoyr cafe UJrruTMiiiL1 Yujjo^] ,1 via s \isuth jiuhto with a
U^ecffi tii 1 ai; intcsl fashions pm™!* ihr
nlrtrL- iif rteltniilir Atifl /agfcl? slwfljj-
^i tcr ap^flnnc i el Jl
ari> Lu nd mi. ur WuVp';k (till dk-spiir .( drbonwr ve-nrer mumV4iiisr4 ur'i+itiii^ iiAVr nihli recently arrival
in Lhe irity—part Cftf a wnvv uf jn-b-Jicckitui
fimgrrjLnLr arnru *he hsnNrrlundv
Mali' a war] d rdf R roadway,
l hr l " S me k
mufkdl /flair, tranhl riled min Ssbo-Cmi*llEEU Jdlii .LL'lr
1
I ty L YUflWi L&V t~A.hU
iind! ddifl^ht? ihi^rnpocra- TheUinefiil -jiirt- uim* jh ai a izarkm-
tured KstablbhrtiuJih— which audience meach mrintry vr a-. I lu ir i«wn. In thi^^nmr,
4'aM riWTnber- mii^Iiij: l|u- dtlr numbereft tot the virlui^of l-Lhui^li Liir to I wu “square'
kiuritii* who havL 1 made ^romfiit rremark^
tibmii ih-rir m i
r-li aru hurka
pretty, a. hi urh h r>ril biology tt^hnr, ami n PunyjEir tuber VAum e.v pt Lf i-
- 1- j » i mi11mnge rat In u -
\
i is abo at
I hr United ShiUr > we dmve toward her home“Vou A merit live in ,l -In.- Ill
1
’ she stormed “VunI I Jink Mini Yugu-s Bavin is n police voise. ye*?"
"Well." I anpmdi 'is il?”
"Nr"' she ( iN'tESttfd “No, We tUAVe mi police -Usi
We krfl where |vt warn Wr -^a*. what we think
( in the Jirsi part 1 L'uutd 1 had detected no
of Bis Brother watching nic oi anyone else
V s i izo §J av s move about inviv, ifi :irn I• -ili ol ilu coun-
try JJgflplt allcod ilse rhurch of tbek choice* or none,
as they please
What vi live speech? Vup.daiii'- only political
|jflrtle£, tin Leajw uf ('oinmuniid-s and itm C ommu-nist dominated Socialist MELayfici:. oversee thiu nation
1
*
affairs from gmsv rnou io p^rFut mi-111 \ In Me more
than ii imllton Yugoslav v about imr ltl twenty b&tottg
lu the Ea?jikim‘ They manage things with a lijild
—
though timi—mtit jxrmitdii^
,,
euiihtructivp ’ mu-dsill lUiiS cntlcMbg one unotiier. 1 Eisud heard manyYujcosIfiVb imeigh against uticUiptoytnent, dead-
hur(?aucraLs. and thi1
ti kcr Noe Conmrnni t.-=
Tomcdmts run for olfwc. and occastonalJy winBui I imi is f/o cxi.st . and in > i>m ’rpi fteu r ttu her- lii E l: li-
hi-ker admitted tt u* wt- - rui^fj aluitK WfiiMi- ktmw h
alsot buciitise someone o\Tersieps thf1 line now anti
then and is reprimanded ur. rard>-. sent to juil. Onedoes nor speak hnrshh against tbe political h\ *temfc" -a lt »r ir^. br[ffhtt*t star, President Tilo ipage 01 Or
"Life Lib RL-Iltr EV4TV Dm".5 ...
On* of 15 Liiikircii boni io peiLsant paWiti In
t'roxilia. Tim embraced Communism ^;i younft mana
r
m
I
iv i k- pm|
i
fw pnn I m ^_cr. l
I
t j im> I it-ca 11
- ^ of i e In
ftfafld War It lie ted ibe Partisan?, d^iiinst Lhe (k'r-
zn.Lii - . i : iL ibrir > i ilia! .H-ratnr^ l Fiimaip'ly In- Jrmip>.
with Ismili-d \llH'd aid, ctr<A * the \ \±j.\s from Yuuo
Silvia At war’s end, Tito stood at the nibon'j hdm.To«iav one encounters Pretrident Tim's unwavering;
m
^ii^e nn wsit Is >ii home*, ofhees* shops and cafe*
Uirmik'himt the huiri He Hill be 7S this mi - nth WIujo
lit yields powef, a ! Yman e.x^CULivi fmrrMia will Likt
iA i-r direct ion -«>i the longue of Comrmmists. arid
I artiam flit \\ it] eluct a new president
] dr<i]i|*d Vtn «rff m thf ton it of KJaduvo, siear
whiTu the I toauitt1 cleaves the TransylvaniaE Alps at
Mir: Enin Calr. ^il«:n were building a Jnigir h.vdn^liT-
trir dam here, one thill will link Vu wis lavia .md
Puimtnia and Furnish loV, billion kdowaii hours r.f
ehTtrii; pow'er a ytatr to both Countries*
"jiiHi took at that!” Vwt cxybumed a* dn%tofL,
jicunnns at the tor-flubu cotistnicllon “Life uet> bet-
ter rver\ da> Wi- remember hem? n wju We see the
impJfoveiTiFnl Someday
*S"er 'AroiTksatLt tfivil in Uaunnnifl." by lira Ohnn^nium,\4tfuivai flEoon^rimr,, Jttnr
5W
Someday, I suggEstitd ui fmopk- in all ihe
republic?, might nut Soviet ku^ia invade
with tanks and gun* a - nhn had dial m:..
I'a*v-u 1
L. i.,
Siriur Cum [11 ILIUM. [.Uni L J>.n lm-,|ci
Vakia_ in 1969?
An implicit answer popped up wherever ]
traveled I'haiijfh 1 saw no hn^ibng mili-
tiince. iM^h-huriE sotdivr- -jciuiUv m gray-
fcTMti unifarm± with ,i rud Citron ihe rapy—hitched ride*- un all tilt mad? -pirns I j burly
hours In l! tnu in \ tlllAgc cdr? umb led along
city >i reels
1 retjuefteil ,ui ml review vs- at hi an Arm y-iprikefiman Col Pfcju Sam;nl m, n ^raying.
I ii., 'prcJjii;li?*I vi'U'HUI of Pjutifuui WnrLo r
seated me m a smnfl arMcrtmm. ordered coffee,
jitii!' summarized in ihree blunt worsts whateveryone els- had told me "Wo will fight
All VAigoidav my n from is In riF art* rt
qmred io serve a Sour In ihr am in l ion fs, he
iinformyd rs ir. A r I rb 1 1 r,i nally , a new law tlire- i
tim evcr> able-bodied num uyi to 65 midevery wonum from i S to tu be trained in
civil defence
For s^r i He roll me] siickIJ
ivjnr ta ivmbh\E'hjf wiJL itviripd uurM'lvr- ,LgnIn>i any .ll
KTcSm i r L\"n< i an nl d c fc nse s n vr
i tve> rwryut ic,
trnm Presiden( tHo so children in otementnnichwab, who an- taught firM ui%i*
Hr pul dnwTi lu> i k^nrettc cm I hmkrd me
600
Workers run iheirown show
VfUNNij au i h \A\ fil itsfl).
me ihc c^tril wurkeT^ council os h, lir^nuic fit*
ini y funrt-km j_s a b^L±ffi ofd^recicra hElected bj I rflSnw
h.^lJiivri r- tin - k-l jiri.i im l.uii qLiukLv.li. le 1 !i. 0^ iiIlII'
kriint: ijcchmqim* Him* and fur rnaimjJirnii suit even
rpu-e—nt, oh ?Aiksh their owa %n3am*tichiml thrm 3un^ a [KidrtlTilt urPfeSid*TU TtUl^lbr
^nnlLim force behind Lfw [mlky nf ^grrnlrK^aHftfri
•inr.1 which line*- nutrli <rf the
i ihii rrfc-m^i ksn t* power Eo Live workers
An Ai^prentirv iahnvri taani* waring .is. at U^evbiaon
Ilu-Jot> -rs u|i in I he *ttu*\\ C malinn lown of Sinnj—
jinorher .inject tif ik'ctNtf iilijtiitiit>ni. Corn picfcfu (be*
Jowi riKtivf’f iin^hinL' touche . 1 '. a [jiclon. in Xemitn
TEir ribrteb 1 1 irm%cKci decided that lJiSs wtniici fit a
firo&tiahle ir^m for on Lite njjcia ttinrket
hi 1
1
Cnrprt* n£ cwtn—n hybrid L'S-
Yugudiiivifln srtrcisii pattern the
Danube riluin erf VojvtMiLniL l lit
nalhm's ifr*nary VllURErs ro-
upcriile In fanning tbntf field* wiL pndtaudfirig IkJitnesS NKhlinnzun-Nir-hf|riEtni farm* Afe the
enfcrjltam in prodciTniii&nily nniun-
IflrfTmiF r IpJy LbiiMl. ;i
fifth irf ehr Umii Ji'iiik itself
mudem. lanHf'Jc&li? tullkvmiiin
S.ivixiR k‘ ^ fry c»tr, oh .in*< r- s
iiitn left bt!umj hj m?]i propelled
mfcftianit til ttffker* Hvfr they
Ipdfnw I heir luirvcst intti .i minknefur bulking .m>M After
wnrk H ibej? w I II tend kn k^afd gar-
dens nf vcvctiblw fur hnme u at.
mi
in t!ii! eye. "Ynij lBWWt M $®lel quietly., "wc
have ;l Jot of experience to dfftW uponAThe Yugnsljiv Army rfarl me: a persona)
favor a lew Hay* later when J Arrived ta 1 Ju-b(
puLtsji. \hi- capital of Slovenia It freed 2S-
year-uld Mihad Nunne ;ie ibe cnndu^oti of
his td-muriLh tout of -;fcmcc in tirm for him
m ^ui'ir itn; sirounr! Vuicr^laviit's rcorlbcrn-
naost rcfiufrik
often l h ll>: 3 frertrd pfa$periiii> SEuyenin
re fern'll in its “the Uni led of Yugo-
-Livin.1
Mike showed me v. 1l>
H1 o vt n i li
V
?iste r n?pubills cn Yy he r affl u
encp a* rin- most indLi^nallv advanced of
i hr country 1
* sii repu \ hi ic$ He r workers takc
lmm r about <Wt\ ,i monE b— about Sit percent
Tmnri than the nation ;d average
Slovenes learned mtlustriuiisiH^ and Emu.
i" pinch dinars. they Ljften told msi. fram cen-
time:* of Tent me example hearing elder
ditirefis converse tn C Merman, • recalled thru
I lie H.lI- -I n i::. - .lIii! nthtfnit&rft Ini! I lit-Jil - w.r,
i «1l ;u id oil ft i r a m ilien ni u ni,up l o i
1
il &
Cliddrtii\ Tltnl! M jkes Baitkt'i Bcuin
the vahi* of a I mar—now ddu gents?
—
is inculcated in childhood As the- Krcdii-
tm ILmkji in Ljubljaiu*. ynuni^ri.fiH havr dts
purited i ht-Lr savings for HO . \r..u\- Mike ind I
strolled nt'cr arid v, [itched them do t empty-
tint pigf&> tafeik* and small purses on mini ft-
lure !;ible* wilh parent- ;ir their elbows, son
mg the rom.-. iritis link- tray.-^ h.uiHii%K their
departs to it teller and chewing candy while
the tfiinswi ion was * om pieted,
1 thought it i harming A fine publk ser-
vice," 1 v ( rti tired, "bin perhaps ii cost? i h«^
bank money? 11
A h.iiik iiffifL-r amElerJ b madly “Nnl lli liJI
Its very good Im-iine- Wc vjifit marly 2\M)
SfhixJ^ i i *. l1 a yfcjtr and show1 Walt DUnd>
lil oth arid i ,irlin)H> And we collect deposits
from 2Q.0DQ pupils"
How much money >Jn then, have ki iheir
savings acrnunl-?
"Arutind ftirili"jn dinars,' lHl- banker
replied. '’Thales uJmu^t .1 million dollar? Wepay 6 7* percent i ri t r rt+>i,
"
Slovenia nhfiwh other tipn* of foreign
m due nee besides thrifi Ir rsTPoir Alpine- vi I
-
latir? hard h\ Au-itriu 1 saw ncta^ional pea*-
jintf wearing Tyrolean kokkectmeker^ Thr^
stai kerl their .wwlhu Inside Lidv re iaurantsF *
ti! drink hee^r and play polkas on jukeboxes
When. Mike and 1 ilmvc i n the conl-minin^
li ni i hiiinry town of Vrlepje, 5S titdc^ north
rast i hi Ljuldjaita. 1 it.ared in isl^ni.dimeni
603
4nrm'MRFn«ix Qkx.
Selling For j fatty Eute, L.ik\' Bi-P
n i-vt kp- ^1 l.ri^D fert EictWiM'n thr
Kntsiviinkf' and Julian Alp*. whkhnimble into Slownict from Autfnaanil ttnlv. Si in ns; dciLtift nn the- :-jmW
Liq.rf^i'l peats around B-led lure?
rndmsiust'i V\kr. iliis ShvvciMJv Iml
Pagan aniC-ilort oF today'* SfoVtTOS
u i iT^-hijM d a Sk|VK gsMbkttt iU kweon ill? islet m EnidlRkr Thnr -.ur-
cm^n^ a>nvert>ns to Chrlflitfanitv,
toppled hpr nlijfc . lti* i . in tile J I Uj cpn-
lury niirtrd the Oluttfr nf MarLt.
It- Full- l.tlfj mm irnnWfl Ijfi'inlile
(it it hr lii!
! ! i . lE I Iii'st n rkj^ii |_“ irudr
wiHh?? ionic nnjr >o oftfn Au] they
[k-uI for v4:+i itKfv—jajiiilj«i£ die niTVitt
of Li Reside nv-tdi :nl*— LliiiL Lk^j L I : 1
J
finally wlilkd ihem in TW7\li.i|i ii ifVl'-Eoiil i llff beutfld ihr
cfturcli brood* medieval Bled costie,
whrrr ifoc* bi^hnpy id Hnxtn inter
mkrti tod us 1 1 liouw* a nmo'iim .miJ
c htilikc I'c^tnur iimf
Ht'rt\ in .1 remote mwunlniit-rlmmer! Imwl, vt mu I
lowering ttpurtnumt buildings brood streets ami sick
watks, tfiHr.UiTiHrtWFrl %li«rr- .iim
I
idtVev a motkmhutvl. \ml ft ci 1 rittn^
|
m>
F
ftiy - sty It audit nriura
‘"That's bpw we aLlract miners/1
explained un nffi
r Lit , “arirl keep them We've built U?flO family (lab,
unrrl .: hundred mote tire ^oinp: up. There s nu problem
iilioul material. they're LiutU o ( blocks of c amplified
caul dust/*
Vcsitinp a ETiuscutcir Veteran of . Jy i-nrs m the pits. I
pilsixi'fi oyer coffee in Edo ita t;arV comfortiddr living
room. ~M\ \\ in- - utvny»H Mid Mr. in >omt; ens-
bor nir-TTUTil "FIluls* rxru.tr how L hu fLit [00feu*
It Icnikrd fine tome— liki' almost uny lun-binlmijm
;l| i.irtmenl hi the United States: radio btarinn, refric*
erfnior and Elen Eric stove dtfidi nutintcH pleasant ksldi
I'd, sewhig mjifiLMe, nvrrsi 11 fifed fur nil Lire. Ericvisum,
LlII the conveniences and rtJQlfirrtjL
“I wnrk 42 hours ft week." ihv miner -. k i > I
HM\ paycom to aft 1 uaid 1 ,
5
1 f 1 di 1 a ars [ > I _-U I j ihodth I 1 “wnlLii iiutumuhik. and it Hike- me iiumb^p and fishiuiE in
to i1Hire- 1 pc. h H e i^bisu ed a it 1 ti e \ 1
1
nd 1ii > hoi i o n y Lit
low uray ttio jrHatTifi in ii few years 1 will retire nn
full jH'nshm 1 1 b ewuiih I nni .sitjhEird."
Kdi 1 .mil vtoady .5+^4 JO others toil at the paE
One of the largest liicnftc Tnim:v In YtiEfisEaviu, it yield-
ed 3 u i.rn'iH ton.- .i ytMx before World Whc H NnwLuifiiiiil volume ransje? around i
,
sr> i.sn hi Lon^
Consunner Dim-find f>ntpB«$ PnirinHi»n
Mearhy, I Fie -|>Il k-LU.Ht--|'.m ( oirenje faetta r\ Umrluci
around the clock tumiem out iflemnint: rEfripsiTaturs.
and Washiuic mactirnts Ii dso wa> inohnsz Upr -< I'upir nssvrn blinn TV -ei* "VVi 1 re mumn^ fpU
ijcjl'j .".l tikctuiy eseeulive oh-en'-ed, as we loured
ihc ptuJiE. "hui we l iiri't rmrt'i 1
1
1i
lc Evm ; i tvi
I
'
It wasn't for Jack oE nn ill1 Me'n ptnd Women in IjIul'
smuiks pieced appllancts tu aether like automatons,
tianifh fiyirtgj eyes unpi> anothfif briplt CflUftht in
tbe um vecsjil tyrnnuy of lluj pioduclion line. FoW paid
(pur party any imontioil
\h c-corl* ueiit in a bii^iniss iuit, \Vhitr hirt, .rnd
Uei ihetEL difloreiitlywTbt more they produce** hv.
jc murkiui. pIca5cdT "tlnj morr they cani ' Ht expUined
tli ,i.i rvcr> V u^usIhv iLiuer|>nsf with more than five
emp |o>ecs is mpcriM l>> the H'qfkers thtmsdvca,
threw^h an elected worker* cmrrn'U. The ccilImJ gn\ -
ernimihl ne L> uiucr -iU* ^LiEata.^ and ilLrects productitpn.
The Uorenk rntcfprLsc mi piny» ?^(K5 person-.
Ux'o-thirds of them women The refrigerator they
m.ike «;rjsts ahaul $140; llieir wu-hiiti* mac hints ra.npe
i'n'iin >20& to
Suchith i: 1:114'- -t:enied steep for d haimn xcFimm1 jaer
upiiii iimume avesra^re? only aimmd >^$0 a >ii llt I
sOU^hE mil Dr DtiSiUi Aii.srtmi>ki + an ufficiai of Ylipiii-
duvE-i - federal Hannina Bureau ThLum hi ng through
hiirL> and graphs in ins pleusiuM ntBn\ he exp lained-
605
KnEkwajrft arc dlivc and Wfrll
aJl SIuviBtfjl LCajch M.13 be-
iNIttlnl 1 > n1 p |i
-7 |Vilk ituntcr^
nrid Trfcu-M id pnl^ converse
aI 11 ffsUvjil In. Lru-
M Mrifi from alt over YygaahiVui
;irii I from Jar att'av ju- Sniri
rlinavLii ftlut ryni^k UrfllUrMh
decked nut m ihdr n.iruT eo*-
tLtfTie>_ I he pahaf tjiATiU- revrl for
four iL±v*.-. wF „
f hi?: ( icq In h?i(w .i k i ,t 1 1 ti 1 u^ilr
'ithili-i tn Eht rlu thnir- nJ thear
humt'kind. At festival1
* *rHi ;dl
1 li-c nuptial hj|
i^e- tuifc their
TOW* ati a jtJrriiijr rcrre-
jiHiny—Jin mH SiuVCTw wedding
iHomSlm'cfika ipatfcMif* fifth fn-lt:-
in a i.h.iublc-iiarrfilled eftoff tu
Iijec rrnrris*s and In help j«rr
>erve aid ru-lum- lhn:.tSenorS
with e^tinrlJiTn
L* 1 / i
3 1
“Often Imci]l hurlnuid and wife #ork,,jf
Ihe
balding ^ray *:uiJ "AndhktEA prOpli; mtii irilitdd— tmlij r| 1 1w n [\vn
job?. Of nmr?i\ wr dm bus jttM idioul L-mv-
thinkr we wunl an ihe installment plan Easycrticlir Ls a way of life in. Yuitnslnvii
11
In t*J65 hv rwj'mtfi i 1 nit, PmUfkm Tttn
stripped all enterpn-n of jj^mrnrriciU sub-
sidies Ever jintc, Kiwiwm hn? competed uti-
nided fii Tn it li home and foreign markets.
“Either an enterprise irutke? moru^y, or it
mrnges .with one that doe> t or u giies r mi nt
Dr AnsidttosfciwTn M' 6 ? a
total of 1
0
Tj pmi [ah t* were abr 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 rhe>r
606
1 "iiiilri 1 rind a market or Were wuer nn runic
[n mas, we got rid of &+5Q0 more Wf upunttk-
uiisUiftfik to 1 • mjpL'E'. with ihr tVr«c.
hulustruil Rrvnlitfiuti Vunodnv Shir
'I bps \> a yCrtlTig Jiutioai mrhi^ruilly, sinri
WE-fi* tryitig to develop n modem lech n raj tijii-
r;.il -in irlj 'n Htidrd “We ru'Ud mure capital
ami *k iHud workers. Hull ol Vu«m- 3 uv ia n -
mai n.h agricultural
i-iEiw do 'lose I he tfapr Were hit ran •
ari£ foreign partners in all kimh nt eaifjnmii
rehdltirts, im: I tiding jaiiii ventures .md trade
tpaperatiaii We' Pi" oppnmu rtuirr fm Uidtfs
ki Liiralcrl young men .im I women are rl runn-
ing from our milver^l ties; as they gain fcXpefi-
t'Pice, liLfA v|ifi'iLr! it Em nrhur-.'
Thr ufEcJal rubbed his hands and fruword
il i i ir- hit n if I ittn: ] m hi >1 ruE | i-r hji 3 u l I.loi i .1-
ninnii _ utmc’-t l J perctnl higher th.m .l year
rLLzri, he Lnld me Exports hud jumped nearly
17 iHtrrent over i%S, and the rust <u' laying
was up- ^ percent From thstf j^arwWc need time/ he gold- "The average
wu.ce is l ,000 d Emirs j month—only S8flt fif
oiurse* ourl
ucres, arc very low, I rny-eh pay5-”i> n month tor m> four room apartment
—
workers pay irmi. il let-- Fifteen . ear:- from
in 1 w, 1 1
1
2 r -Li ml Lit* J of Living will be about
where We si Germany elands I oda>
LE sou iu led tu [Tir a- ti ^ drive
into the nmss consumer* world wus propcE-
- i r:h 1- r I iy ;jd h ' :m f 1
< w , 1 f it I her. 1 j,] E jdirtJ £ Weiit.
We are 3. socialist and rMinatigned mllmiTUr Anarhioski re^jiotided jmfUy “Wr ivant
C 11- hr fliend- witii everrrmer
AJI 1 he same, after 1 thanked my host and1I1 i i.i Mi-d- I I lull 1. i.'il into several capitalists
withmat even tryingT
I halted when a sJtocshine boy beat briskly
on Majid— -i yuunp businessman drum-
ming u[j trade Fm f.trret 1 hnn-r^ my shoes
607
Srre id rp md ^trniRth unli-
jilf h'i?rn 11 iv figure i>l j tried
wunuua Si> Ce »_l
L
rJL i
i
born tvftli Meltrtmj) Yuftv-
-luviij'a Ijtisr known m u
I
|>t- -r
1 hi- '. .iiut kLFkite-» a museumit! Z.iprtdi. K v^LimUlt^ GE&Ir
iiftvr Well hi War IF, M<*ii mnidied a V i* d;L/vn in inij.
1
1 1
1
pi ypn& bunt'd, -d hi* *•w It
request ntrar %lit
iiceoijd tdly i lit nrmcm,
/iififfh bbirn-h mu h Sitlurriii 1-*
Hill ill ... I r. Li Mi|-.Hi L"< =L'
knoll of *fco;ipefi florfc ;ifrn«
the Tfjf R- [inhli — Rtpublk
Sijuiire—t-n ,i rt.u s l'l •i
|j BttfiBt
Ccm^tlypUKCT-hy iriRhll
rita-w b-
1
1
oner urer from two
*-rh<j<dlhov.sr
I hi -ioi hi>uf utkifL huSi of
> 'roailiin p utiim-, Enam *? P ahiI
indu^ijy. Zagreb ha.* bivrf
i* n.1Jrrt ‘rtsr \riv York ftf Yu
Eiodiivhi " Twin ^-H-fnm
-pim id tlfeic Cathedral of
••! 'I'i'im . lunlliiiitr 1 1 ri I- ;.
1 1 1
1
v nl |}ts (madum]nanl]t
Kcjiti mi C.iliinl it'.
. jii M^nrij . ii . i_
shone as brightly «t£ Ius smile- Then I foggeda privately owned laxh which carried me to a
privxidy ownrd r^tmirtinl Hn the ##y t
passed dmps, rooming hou^-, mr-waiih
- 1
n
it Lr u * k irsii '. -1 .
1
1 ilii- ii f l i l e i
r — tu mx.\ cif i mj rsc
w!l h nnnre than the permittecl live employee-
l moved on North nl krunj, another in
dusiriid city sir >k» verna.!pinfeed due pis into
tin1 M,ni mu of tilc Julian Alps, anrt
presently pulled up beside the GiuLter-iL arvui
him jewel known as Lake Bled Out oi St
grew jei ifond ot] whi- h u rei| rhinxti afetcplv1
stood ^nepterlike, and high overhead on Els
mvh crag .* gt-uv and anc&nf castle mountedguard 1
1
mjlH' 6CM I After veur- ul ruatnitig chi
l;
.
1 rtii .E had come to fairyland.
All Europe fur years hn* folded this immnrujn resort, ami more tnurisu 1 m:J:i *. art' 4 » I-
rn 1 r:nc nearby l^kc RohinjasWell Vacation
s j-w 1 ti 1 , ImuiL, fi$ht ftfbd piny miniaturr gblf
in one reason, -k.tfc and ski in the other
"MmmLiLin 'ani^., people call these lakes.
Hlil the mt'li and nvnpeo who hnhur fi^irby
find 1 i n 1 1 lime in admire them. One m riming
in 1 1 1
1
1 griiik poihiJL .ibiiw Lake F'nihinj* atunned peasmat njimtil Franc \
'
veie-h spoke
Us fpt • • f a t hand n sr way of life
.
( nuiitnwin\ Sum Drilt to [ hi- Cities
Wl -,,ii in -.tn inLi sunJidu ouUjdt Ebi? hnu^where hr had lived mB Sii> 66 yeaiSp and his
people for threr lenlurb^ and more before
him In the nrchnid* around ustwhole fam-
iHe> | m knJ apjihss and pears,; they knell in
folds 10 harvest v^i»bfa> t orn ‘ragged
heavily on the stalk and Jog- awaited the ax.
winter iippftoL hed with ii> brutal void, neca
sianally 'hO F. below /cm.
rhe irmujil Rravlji Bsil—Cow Dana:1 e
k
B l»r;dj 3 iL' the vow 73 return from high sism
met pasture- hud 1 u >! ended Mr t1
vetd*,
whip h Tp'Eularly the principal speaker Enr
Bividl MLiinr^ — rhr E.riled States und fliu Sum ft L'luoii— woti Yuj^rtluvi:! with teej^okifijcil
irimuphrfi \t lust September's InUTTijUiirLur Fuir m Z^Rnph, I'ref.iil^nc Ttlo md hi with: jin pink)
iiivpect thi- liivtiirii i\j
j 1 LI 1 p 1! 1 inm Li 1 1 1 ! ituHlukr, :-rnt heir idtn 11 5 ustronuiit mukIi the first nuLUncdorbit <>l Lhc .mouh This Soviets rOunfcerr.fi with a mm In m ihels sleet i-upurrcitiic trnn.sjKirt, 1 hs
the colorful Oceanian, leafed i bn nigh his text
and recited part of St to ttic
“When day -Laris h • tvnA t fidjtNlN£ ilia
gliisse-. I lui peik-atti lilrrady iVrtb, tkt cou ^ to
i h r ^jftrcd milk. All day iisn iz li lj c lll- t&egrass*
I il rakes il* far wtaler SY-km
I
I Sr lugs limber in
ilir Staffs ’iiiMF'Coveml mountains luiuhs fi
dmvn with horses uni owni ^umI prays that
(he brakes finlrl Hr w.irk- antu (tit nighl,j Hue -iiir ywng people m -
1 lufipi! w.icit to
work in the fields oe j$u up in the mountains
They prefer Lhe towns and eftita living GOll^
ditions arc footer W^ga
s
:
:a^s better There is
ri iiTufi fur ?t i irk in lhe factory, find after the
Working hour- there is fun
Franc CVetck'-i voice -osi Lined. His ownmjji, fie went, on r had eone to Ljubljana u>
study .it the universal y "How can I sax to
hum rn n to do thui r l want him to have ,1 bet-
ter life than l have bad.”
Air l roM u- leaxv. [ noticed i little white
iMJTtBnohile in ihe horn.1
Voiles?11
I a_skediJMy son s,
Mlie answered "Hr ffini Sind a
place to park ti in Ljubljana."
1 titt&rlefl ‘--la-iui E li . running before the onset of
i ild xx- cal her, iuul within a few hours madean i :uu4-S|sici' nj_‘ ; debut in busilimz Zagreb Mvcar mo out of eas on one of the husu-sl I Js<ir—
-uidnari-s in I fir eapitwl of CImalla imap.
pages A traffic pul iceman quickly
enlisted a couple of ptissers-by and pushed meonto Ihe ladewulk. The flow til vehicles re-
s uraed+ led by a sooty th im hey <\\ dtrp si -k ii ing
pMt on a shiny ni"lorhike hbrushes upthrust
2 agreb is tike tliai Its old Upper Sown guts
bin U h- (hr Hth c sjm ury ,when a feudal juul
L'i legist will L-nclavt: lost on -i hill above the
Sava River, an a neighboring eminence
burghers ht; I ip'ikun.- liusl t their own vnm-
m unity i pages c-itift-'O
Dow n I In- 1 1 il I spread - I h r Lr iwo t 1 11 u :
,
.» beguiling laic o! "Id Central Europe wiT
Tupolev 1 44 1 rl kJ !*
i E1
1 l-h rn ntf h i* own b rnisrl of CumnitmLlH Lu ^ 3' FIto sp I it with f be Soviet
('nion L ri VAa arid BsjSumcd cl puticy of inrlfXirniJeiKT and nrjnalier*rn.eni Hit hold moweg ivr Vu®o
diiviii u significance in wnfld illjit amt of ,dl proportion to h.s mx lorliiy,'hehcddun to no
Mil. Tito bokL he* Couali-y to a Enidd3e-iM;
lln- rood CWTO hrM
u
r«n E:i5t arid W^L
drape* ill** frame a vinuytinl w-rtr&ter <J Ji ^ ui^&Savfai'i faLtn^ril DidnuitiiiN i.,-l-i Once a
pJayptHlttd for Hi I mi- - pAiiMuiO, the rnu^EjilkeflJ 3itturai CnnjEf5 mtire them 400 milv\ at
th« *un-bfr<£«g AiIHiiUl TK-c ftyamr rfnPiiJivliki 1 br:njK lll.il lured tiar RoEmuiF IikS^v attracts
Imports «if £ouri±L*> fmm Western; Europe and the Urtilrrf: Sink'sl Vinai-flad slope* of the
6U
Diniirk AJp*. hm sUlronEtted a: bun,*,!*, («ap simply from ihe Adriatic, ffi p\mm* patina
pleasure boMtrs cuti *Jl but)
11u<~ k diferUy Fmm the dni* The Dhiaxic eaUfif. [(arul-
Iclhig the fOA-r riis-st!- ;t fnrmEiliiblt kirner Ntwot n OaErontl^’ gulden ctuist tmrl £enlF«:i
Yu^Jiiviji ^eawareS Inmrin-rh ,il' hlaniLs. -pur* -n i lie l^nuuiirs 1 ask ll1 rlettisl auchur
&U
mfe .
1 *Il-
1 1ls gu
ff*
ILi-
^ 1
51—
^
1 j y/K; /- 1 4 1K^«- —^ T 'A
jwms- 'k.
- % 7_ ' Lrr
.P
'*
*. :
iIF
3i
f h ia
LP U|
Wrl VM
*»• m_
“F _ m
^JF-
Atll Un iptld w * I'Ll If J We sell nur liberty " Vhu :
[jriH L 1 jl’ ppDtici rtlirt ni- uf Katm&a
—
t'iitJay'§ Dtibmvnik—fr&Tn r late Middlt
\ec:- '!i r« mi:li I he \)oA Ri ii.s: ’siHii c jft-Nnd
when chdr liti\ city-re public im the Viirralic
mumTitinrrl ili iTidtrpundtni iind
vinl with Venice u ci maritime lbiiirsr^-Lsiricn jtpg^tsicfr—literally, "ship- tif
Riiiiiisj " plied as fn t ,15 I nd -uj nd the Ame
t
ka.-„ ciiriji-sinp immense wealth which iht-
Raimsans u*cd tu eitihillM their walled city.
I- v. fh ri r^ L1 ii|ii>->] 'i 1 1 1
1
1 1 - - js.n r ! 1 In 1 1 1'• 1 1 - «i
5l RUise. the dtj'j. patten Hit feniuAfeled
^fs3d liy .-aminr miLsLerpjerr itls nn ;i massive
silver \twi tts?i9h*fcl platter in Dubrovnik -
eat 1 1 L’d ral. Sue ti h!i L Lc ri rm rulni tultrs CK I J'j -j tiiE
lime- in local museum^ mid t lrjrL’lif:-.
G 1
4
r'j
* n
Tf
V
fti* 'fn
. .
y ¥|
j liy a Mr
B ~j*
1""
“'ngW,
9
mtinkurcrl ! u_tT i nj m ls pahice^ und pub
\\c I jiEiliu^ - Rfyuml. ;ti fn Belgrade stantl
tiLm:k after blntk of staek fi#w tiiy-jtiivrm-
1
1
it 1
1
1 -.1 1 I J I I LJ r Cs jll It I 111 rU SI 1 1 I k' Vel LJ|
J C!HMith-
HpINlIv, glassy eui) warrens of
K. impari J r\a w rl i ]W I jrrm 1 1% i;( i v-
1
ve r T ;l i v
mipnpuliif in !EigrHi \ n ^ n--
1
;
l*. i.t'-* second
city— Vi 3th Miriit 4AD.JKJ0 reside nli—is one of
the nation's thief haine of
. i w i nU I-
1 ; i j li n us trade f . j 1
1
l|ili gt'i (i 1&-1 1 und
a major huh nf commerce und rmsri -nn t
T :;ird thi'Lr capital 35 VurosIiu' ill s ruhuraJ
.mmI i ni t'Hfi'itiiiJ lender. HtilnrEidtr^ A $fcru£
Who needs hvj?
1 5 1’ bind Altitude Ijl- .muitJit ojiimosilii-i
stumming from political. relifctbU^ urul j ijE-
1
i
1
* lifFemicfe. split jn'rsoral-
it- was born in jy.u. il)3 when the Roman.
: tr
Km|iiru divided Fmlti f • 'n>f
;
lhc im i| ilc By-
zantium birjuijht Eastern way?. Cirar.tinilly 1 lu1
i Orthodox trillion und CyrillU lilplialmi
sptiMLl through the south and uiist (todays
Sefbii Macedonia. Montenegro, and purl uf
Bosom lierct^ovtnEO The north and wotmrm Slovenia und Croatia, with Dalmatia}
iidoptted 3 -h li in alphabet and I'hurrh
Today, i hough ihi'it imrein- may cUng to
timeworn grudge more und more young;
people c .ill tfiL1 native:- Yugoslavs first and
Sorbs, t' run rv Slovenes—whatever—second.
J n the univerw.i r s through nut the civiinlrt
such uiuths have com pi allied mil dtnuiTi-
jilrsittidi|
unarnUjii: l^. e^lve bureaui* nicy
Uuk of leadership. patltit> i.i good juli-
Wluj 1 1 T visited I>r. Ivan. Supek Rector of
Zagreb f fkiverity, he pointed to lhe crush of
attidents in the hath
I h'v -4-i- plenty "i pmbteuii ihil must be
h\5
Mow of ODiliitidh liulc -
ihv fate iif DiLrnaU-in ft^h-
omuui \nttStipkavir- ( h 'it 'i
Over mi rtflcrUinntr mIq^iif dry fed wine fnitn hi*
native isit of Kophjla. hr
iJetcnlw.- :i iru.^ rjjJij.tr |tlai»-
to modecni/r h@ ii shims
boat JffiTi=i< flrtth a smittjr
ft -ili -H- n i be r I. ’sat i l < uth Lime.the Liipmm and hit rrru
will ciiminut mi l lie MWays- pialtimi iJill at dua k.
eclitu |r lipllt - Id ffitWI ft.-ill
and -Amfnt’ until fLfWii
Crewmen land the
nrj^hl - haul of saidras
jriin Lassus w Rain liur^
home pfler sutuiiw [rijjjfe)
pklfT- timed 1 id i ind hrtp
Sax 1
tin.1 net- Lind .ni'tvr lv
pljitfnrmt fox the kefOMrnr
-a] up.' um.-1 Jt- lured
The ii.iKfJLl.LLh!-* in fUifiil
hum- Almric kn main Vt:
b^-Iavs- Individ utils like
Copiah i Siipkovir mii>
(igjcmU: jinvuL il hlJ^IlKSSCSi
with nn nwm thnn live non
family fmpluyi-ti.
soMdr he dtv lured. "They will not accent
l!u w
u
rti I a- Li 1
1 ihI jhm ipft ate givintr ic W ii it
republic: n |u:r.>nn i cunts i furn ni.uj<i£s mu differ-
ence f Jur vuung people are vtr> d- mot r.Ll it
They want a in f heaf nwn future It ih allX A1
td the jzoori"
Wind. then., Was lih biggest problem}The tall, genial uiipsiithM Tatar shook hi*
head wearily.
Aery Simple," hr replied “Money Todaywe in ml I i(MXK) iiudenLv three nroe> ;l
many as lifl'nre UTnflrf Wax II We ruud pnp-
vi dc 111 ei rr titatfIters, c I u^fi^tn*. on rl fin i UJ
i i1 -
"
In her yuune people n?>tdc-. \upodnvia^strongest hope for the future. but Uiltnkd
artisaps ako strengthen the nation s.ifjni
jutft went nt /„igirh. at the Kristid glassworks
near the medieval low no - Sumo bur. I waErhed
616
me?4 and temitoff nteate oqui-ite piece* qJ
lead crystal b> hand. The fai tun. dirpcirts
about u fourth of its tut put . .dJ to the WeftKerr btiiuly flowers not »>nty from great
:-kill bus from dedu .re« I drudge") I wuii bud
KrbtalV perspiring gl j--> blowers nuikm^i hen uM magi* in the brllbh heat of rptitriog
turmicE^. The> rained ol ihelr hmp pipe--
Eirtl.il ^'in^ Ihr^niteiHMl to iw&'Thecr tongs can slum! Hi is juh uniy five
U".U” i «t so.!
' rf inarked \ \w Ijurlory'^ dir^kfttv}
JrAsf ji i 'vetkuvif 'Then we give liu-an ni her
wprkW# ei.miemjj| h iLt'j| krj-r,i[ - i^tltnl glji--
all ty ns S i tti nj? at t hei r iirinf 3 i rs u Wheels.]in ins
l i i ki: i l[ 1 14 - Vi i n 1
1
tti ca s u TH 1 1le) mes tnnke
ibou^anit- "i cut* 10 complete il ^ini;ie tray I
Lint ^u^l umsJtL, eium^h rm-
n a I'lveh e*tample
ni Lhnr .srL i hr ml tint: \wk thirty hmir.'.
In the 4 vill.iur of Hkhiiic, rluse lo
I 1 1 . - 1 . r i li l]u:i':,in, I -ix; an irL-c 11 .1
diFfcnriil medium—wood By dtiy, said Marlan Hffeduiiir, be work.- in bis fields by mu hr
hr ciirvr with knife chisel,xnd mrillfE S f 1 1
-
tiiuuhi,, ht bikes two months or Kurte on a
fi\mic fand for a*th he comrNj^a a $6itg
I1
1 art'll i\ long ufierniKm pn die 45yew-old iirtist’s living bedroom, euthraftvd he
hell I Jijh rwn- him! three fool- high pieces onhi> knee and *n|'dy sang
MTordfiht he will feast," be emoaefi and
hi- Edumphan^ "'Fisherman'1
with his Sim:
catch bespoke all fishermenII
I ‘hey arc afraid nf their wives,1
' be recited:
and so hL wiiie-bililit'rs were. caterwaul fagbravely as they I nr- hed
Wt tin rnnllier ringed bs her hrnnrt mf
icven children? "^hr Will do anything for
them; she will beg is" she must. ..."
Where pun’s im rrcda* nature’s begins If
my ontfc ibing spells Yugoslavia to :t i^jatefiil
world, it nin *mly be the Diiln^iLnui littoral
618
rpage» +r Li- 5 J), Mn?tiy in Croats this blessed
and ^rnAtng stnp of Luid mnirr ihnii .Wmlto-1 be \iv-iU, •* between thr warm \ r trial ir him I
an .iwcsnmt buchflrnp 1,1 spectral limestone
mountains *
Flock to Dalmatian 4 msJ
YiiLMi-krY - have always looked E*i l\ v -rm
They build *hip& in Pull*, Rijeka, and Split,
ami >el their nets for sardines and mna in the
murt qgfBtfd waters. Today the Ions Dftbttft*
rsrui seashore hm livcumv an iniernationaJ
pi&ygrnurd,Eourists find it a vacation bjinrai n
Nearly 15 vr million visitor?—J7S,00fl of themAmericans—filled fine new fin-trls last yftnf all
along the spectacular coast. Like me, ibev
11 - u 1 1 1 hr i'i|i|Jv:ilerl of a mere £8 or so a dsi^
for an oce mironi single rutina with shower-oul breEtkFast. and enjoyed I'liI l-n surM* din-
jll-e h, wktb whu\ fur on]y ilintr or four rinUarv
l often heard j tribute, ai.cribed to (reurpe
Gilbert M ^rrawniu wn>U- M "YmtfulfliViNS Wm'Eli* uil ihf V-:lriMk
HJl* NATIONAL ti fc ^ , HA FtIJ-C JSftf
Vebnuin I tHkJ
fMg-fiky rnuxitry nl the Uiitkaliv. "M U^ilu like W^dnlngf1
»y^ fifciluKrapher
HLnkr u? i \\U ijuiriuLt^ ^hn^iptdtM vulhy m Brjiitiu, buJtup of ihf farm ind blilww
Simsk'y diJT& batrricadi*n: 'nc bcrkan are part n[ the ^me Imir ounr mAgftt
I hat *nar- inln the flhrf.Lriir Alj*v Ffrmi *Lirh TSUTIparK fUlHriE W«r|il War fl. Ycip^Uv
picmllilA ruUdnl emrm> m^LilLutiun* 0J1 Lhc rirarln Batflifiiiim iZCEl^l
Yugoslavia: Sik Republics in One
Bernard Shaw, about the coral1
* most inm-cms
.ii- act 1 1
1
: i" Tho^e toho ittck 3 lJy panid i
-
-h 1
1
l j
I
d ch imu an i t sei I Jubmvn \ k"
5uti-wasbtrd r somnolent Dubrfivtiik. pettr!
iil' Dnlnuitui: red-Eilcd rout* idl'd ltd by
live stone wails (pages 614-1 Sj Mm called
lit-r R:Li;ijsu in days of • I I and knew htr
1 reuplift? -1 ad u n gal I Lry> ;,u
1
. t r ki>j
"
:'t\ c h torn -
dred years ago like • H -republic immtaUkcdtr^iing outposts from AslELMinur lo London.
Dubrovnik lies setettt now. cHfcssed by
tTnur. Taumt£ spend hours poking about in
iluj_iE 1
1
ii'jti cathedral and churches, nobles1
bou-sespand fortresses trt :i I ith-century
Dommkan monastery + tbiy fttilrii in the
cloister while sandaled monks pMflttlsrlw-h
p[L=r.1 From sutnewhunr deej 1 in thet recedes,
ghostly orgiiti notes resound In ihe \ 5th-
i L'iitury Rector's Pelme, victors ponder a
L.tlirs inscription .ihovr I lie, ntram:i: lo l he
Cirem i Tound I - meeting rmmi. '*Qbliti privu -
iDrum pnhUfa cytalc" it admonishes "Subor-
diiiLKte your mvn ink-rests to the public Komi"
Oabnatians Cro^d an Emperor* Palace
Out- eirver suiys long enough in such it
pbd I drove slowly tip thv toast 14S mile*.
1
1
. 1,-1 mnrfc.rtl rr^urts, Sim-bJcflChed li>hidg
villages and forested islands, U i be busy pori
m Split 1 found a city rapidly e^paudin^ with
Industry—fhipyitrdfi, pfoslics. cement—andwitIt
| 15*000 proptr-H Ten year- ago,
1
' laid my hundnumi 1 guklt r
Vladimir Bunko, "youeotild h«ridily find a r.ir
Now yiiLj am hardly fold a parting place"
The Roman Emperor Diocletian, of humble
Dalmatian origin, Innli i palace in Split and
retired in it in a,d J05, The palace stands
today, still in the heart of town, *iilt vital.
\:: . I : I .
l
n k that Diocletian would fall upon
lias dapper al I he vs edit
Dowrt the agts people have taken shelter
a i thin die palace walls Nmv !i. rnr-r? cling to
fti yriihiie cnlumtin Inr stip|g>rl ( *]u-n-a ] r
- . :h. -p
-. Li
.
i r4 -
, umi ice-cream standi m §1 uEily
621
wild Kr?cn=i]i sarche^ Corinthian column^iUiil fortified towers: %eii Lurie- of rubbish dog‘ii'inu cull nr FOum-. Mom man bi.'UU [h'r^on-
rlwrll in the house that Plorlrtmj built.
To amiable. even-diBpositioniii.E Dfllrtia-
iian*.,Tunrtnrfiiw Is usobJK snpn enough lo-
3iujd. mtrcunul look at life ditferentlv
Historv has been fickle If they taste vinegar
s ei iTeeiluiTii, Wi llu'Jt pnAcrb it I- -tvth.-ier
itiniL hcmt'.v in slavery
Turkh Briii i kill I Miiuj-feis lo Serbia
In Ihc Mirldlc Ages Serbbt llnu richer:! as
an i rnh'pt'riih 1 m kiiMj.rlniTs T lu- Hi tliralnx rt'Li
gion toiik moi under the Nemruija king<r
many 1 1 lurches. El oa built still stand Ry the
mid- 1 3TO+s* ruled by Stufan Duian, 1 lu" empitt
included today':- Serbia. Macedonia. .Monte
negro. Albania . and tutlf of Lrsrece Soon the
uncomiifg lurk :-
1
hiagfid lIL that m ko^nvu,
and mis la ret- lifCiin |iiLir=*in^ the >ky
Tnsluv. SprbiitS rljrbt-rnilLii ih-jilus people
and 34,0 fO square msles make her the imlion'
liuacsl rcpuhtic North of Belgrade sprawl-
Yugoslavian brradiutsket, the vast Danubeplain Lhni uoni prices ihu iiuionoDiuu^ Serb Ian
region of Vnjvqdina tpage» 602-3)- Onwron
its flat. iiitJinsivcl) tultlvMted reaches. J
pulled up at *i ruadnid^ stand to buy :oim
grapes with t hu u'lirml h nf. the \int!.vard si i Ii i it
i h i m \ t hi'i rfi i [ . ken' h i ef crI fif^Ln I \\ ti
i
tdk-i l
my ptirchiLse on an andenl hand scale
"Siand uri n pLimpkin,1
" rfhe srttd, iwwphvji
a plum [i amy ";imJ you can sil thr whole
prtivmcu"
;ilh nf l-c-.rT.idr. ><rbi:: I :i r :• - into rt
land nJ Wiwnltfd tni'iimluin^dAd hdllMJ v:d]e>.^
stippled ivsLli orchards^ fiejds f vidny’aicL, and
nurudmvs \s I drove InTr, hur^dntwn c itL
LrrijUrailh >luwofl tridlic to a crawl on liu-
naiTDw highway I didn't mind: police "ii
tin? rr
;
1
1
1 wfrr .l
-
1
1
le rjn l.ir In i uti Ii ^peedfr.-
fiuing them on the spol
In like toWA of ArandtflnvaCi une raf
Yujioslffvia'i many spas, pen pi r -nil i.iki' dn-
Deft lLS u burlitT,, a 1 1 . i L i n
.
l k l-f eij lJrkren tiaivi- anp fftnn I ft'hile left -k ili ir;.p f hr Itti' lirimq,i|
n .^lienii-irk of tht 8MpLltn. Vu^lhvii r-l ^IlLiniyn .ini rprtry 1 k blwlf uimu> .a lei, popular
Lmu>tig cither _MM.dr.-m ufshiu- Meeting place *i| truiny i.uth-i, Vugc-kivia misu? adherejns of
Chrm Unruly—Largely turnon t iiLL^osic lleiiJ 1 brtbcidDSt n ' > I I -un
Etosb d n'rM-r tk nuutyr .ti j^nuw In Cruatia \m~xt pngc^i. site of a World WarII bC(Fn£:firktri3thkrk U 11111,1 wiWtt sQtLCXX) ilietL Dalbac* of a Elrt Liaiu iprliiKiiine rill ^ a fmJt-4iorx~-
! jj
I
l ihmrr (ii 1 iiiii rt r« -^’iribl'l ol liN - Lriiimpb over evil 1 nlikr n1ln f,a -t fm*ipi':TP
bnd- ^'uHu^kiviji w.cv HIr-filled n 1 . 1 i hy die Hn-M.in - but Ij^jgcly b> kb \twn guemlla fon
4fcU!HlUWEli 1 ihili iIJovb lytu S ;i>ha f^aii i£. c J
mineral wiitaFis. n> t.Kty have si.nee the iiarfy
i - I lrifii a tym Netful frnm one of Ibe
spring myself, reasoning \]\ai rht> sparkling
ui Ini respiratory* hcitrt, durvsiivtp nerv-
iiit s -tiid other nilmeiLis -nn-ly < iniimnrd I'h'-
ve alive Ljiutlhies as will. It LasttHj like tired
soda water. slightly alksijthe
A rrw miles distant, I caum- upon several
thuLi&nnil Serhs paying hnnuirr- to another
liquid: I he Xrjivn of Topr.tla wj|> oh truing H -
mnujii w?m festival Hm klktg pig? ro.ismd
mi spii> HaH a ihucrn binds blared while
rosy-cheeked ^trls swirltid inbnUiant ej:l£ uitml
tost nines ami a Gypsy^s trained mem key
lmeed a jjh Women tm colorful apruns sold
jr:i|ii-H sfi'-Vs,|
im r • .-uml h^memiide winr
and— yes - i ntcnn candy
Thr tulii has sped a I mi’iminE mr .ill S^rb*
From litre, In IfliM, Karailjiifiljc (Hlnxk
Ucu&t*£ It- Serbia in tevoll against the op1
1p?s5 lve Tn rki, Th uujsh I he upn s i n st failr d
second succeeded .V the L rrnlury nd
Mncgd* Strbiii achieved i "Til] indcpenderui
\ li^u -:
. hive lesliivfils Rle! none evnkt:>
tliL- poignant mixture til hUlrrne^ imd n :
1
1 he) fed eath October ? I in Kriigujevne, mi
<i 24
Death arri ved
before breakfast
5:17 —JULY 2t>, sqfcj- Asfa&Dyof Ski
1life'* +nxi.O,
J
)OdtEii!rt5M sltrrine from their litdk the
m i>rn 1 n \* ra lm - ltd iiun\y eXpEi ji Je-rL
\ ittrtsivi? enrthcjuake struck di-
rectly benculh them Wirhin 20
-r-mrirt>, :-lQ percent i*f Skii-p-c 1,y
in ruin* flvtU.
Hilly tin fiily work hours ul
4umnertinit luiwt 1.1 1 li? people,
alreaih iivtukjc* reeled out of tlwir
1 1 ni 11. ii <ri -
1
hf n 11 1 1“ . : 1 1 w.lu -
1 ill 111 ill;. I- Ll(i 1 rbir rld'illh t II
dbWU lu I,0*(I Mkuy life -IrfTjwr*
ncviff uvokc
From jirnLLlit! the w ifcrlfl rel!l kS
-iihiil pdiM 1 tlE 1 1 ilii" dr^AilAtcd
1
1 > ,tJipilnl of the- Yuncudav re-
public of Mi^edtinb, Almost im-
mfiiialelv ii new Lwo-frSIlfcon-p
- tnlkn I ?*rl h rjimkc-pr^r' ^ k\ ip-
je beppin fi> the Imm ih* rubhlf
of the oM town, Mud era apart-
men: complexes | be 111 w ri||Jnl)
lAVslem -t-amp In the meW
lily, previously noted for
murkc-iESy Tatltkh lUipeCt
Hryond hi inistfontou ^nr'ki T
idhove fitthll t? Ltm ,1 renmaM erf
the birriLL-r rmlru-idil >liiLLcm, pro*
ju si reminder of Utinc
liitcful 2 f 1 seconds In I
industrial tenter in Central ^rdm Pb ihmt
date in 1-WM, hrli^n and Kus^tan tnxips
lihrr.iEt-rl the dly Lbti-- ifit joy
hut on t bill same date thrift learlicr,
t k'lrnan lrtKj|jer^ had lined up ? ,CK)0 tmjn
imd boys of Krapjjevat mid mastered thmin reprisal fur guerrilhi activities For all its
i1 norm it ^ . I he et ent remain- little known out-
side the Country
Zika Juviuvwu wm W ibm, and strong.
Nov. lie is r.s r, a retired llcci
H
int ant a liu keeps
brandy in band when Fit* talks about it
"Si helps/ he vay^, eve:- straying beynitd
rSife] room where wt mvi ta liu? rolling hllb ®t
i rage > I y beyond Hfe wnndi i upi tile out"l >15 October Jlh
,F
tebegtn^/'(Jhfe\ colletild
.ill men between 16 and 60—about 10,0tX> *>('
TlifL herded lt- into a field Just west of
town. At 7 Ltrn. on October 21 they stdfted
Mhoftdug
—
ei pro up litre, a gttnip there—undthe k.fiN Lnj-C lifted ail day Some usen were
-pared u few Imtiihers and baleen and dor-
lurr., the tot [jibolrRtpra, and thtHe whu had 1u
dije the trfflehei to toss j a e the bodi^>
Tie Id ill i-iririjw—• mid
lli- inrindi nut hi- litrhrs another,l
I Uved hecjiu-e I hr n ike .mtl ran They re-
el l| it nred me in town, I hedged fftdrmy life 'I
have a tfioLhi r/ t said [ liiivea wife him] i hJI-
iiren_ They shot nil in tike back and shoulder,
and left me for dead+l
With smother survivor, iivnjin Xianrmid.
new head of tins Ecupi^vw TourUi AisudLa
iifm T ! walked over ihu flowered field uf drutdAmpEig monuments here, one ilsi^icLr- a
626 bird with .i broken wihe Bcridfc it resi SOd
schoOUnivs, mnrebed there- from chiss. carri -p ^
ii;e their hiiy- and bank*., ;uhJ JjLiJi
Mr Zimnnsf pninicd Lti a memorial slrme
on which u few word- wen carded In imimlion III .i rh[Jrii>|l Komi He said:
NThe 9 .l>
!
wrote litem in hh nntEhook. Someone found
1
1
3ate r i E <sy ? J tear E tad rh and 3nm niy
Greetings last tiim Ljuhi£p1
He never knewthat bi^ father wa> dint the s&tmt day*M -. b-jsi -Mn-ewiJ the lawn v -.]o|HMiiliitilwd
with 1 j rill iAM patches of begonia* ami rfaU
ides The annual obitfrvaflec w.aa? only n feu
dayi* away.
'We expect more than lQO,Otii ^-opk-T He
±aid ajuieih “We do nut forget We shew our
reipeeL But we cdtbrak aba. They wouldwin it ils tu. E hrcc vcar> tu 3 In: d-Lv after ihe\m r
died, we re pruned freedom,
'
\o( hmiJi^in lu]E oplimii-m \ knnv by now,
Ile- ;l t Y ugo*! Lt via ' - weltspriim 1 uving -a iu l h
tu Macedonia, one of the ponrer republic in
materLai jjwf bat rich in spirit, l found that
btir ^hininn new capital city of Skopjt stands
a.1- a te-^rmonud io faith and hopci
* ““ 'j 1* ^g 1 tjr
w
%lll l h'HM"iil 1 .AH LI
(’JludH n-l Hit? vpirit. II..
< hutvh ii -SiJohn Hogo^kiv
i ^n-Vvis^ -t heljtllt Ltlmvi' L_.iktr
Ohrid in si^jth
crnEmnt or VuphviA^p«*ublk> AMiluiU^ killv Hn^thtfuribow. flib iltwl pejo-
Lileri b>" s.irmiTK .m i
:
rirh^r-
men.i abou nt is wnth medlpvsd
motiisler'ie.i whose walln
hiitbor ..l Lnniure-trflvr o:
rpItsnriuH isrt
The &Tool-hLnh< 11 Hi
i. enLur;. r’re uu mf tfie Mil
ilnnndi and Child irLphll. At
the dmrch cif Si Saphla mJ*akr CJ-hnd. lay ronceah il
I", ii nut her paiiitieuf ini 700
unli] diactivered dur-
ing r^rt-nl r^>triTialinn
The hivtcirfc regbni of
Miiceiiiniia—fou^lit aver by
Ek-iJltniJ pi:A\ rr4 lti tujlJi World
w nr-.— L<jr.Liy Jit- | .irtit
J
j mtil
uTiu-iie "i'ugotfltai'Viii. Greei t
ind HiiLijuri.i \leX4ndef tht
E. i-TettL a rtrl.1 v l Juft . slrf.i 'ied
Ini runquesLil iti*m here Ui
I hr L ri 11n- Giivi'i; in. 1 hv Jlh
ceMurs p.v.
'V8l*#» ""V ,
fikt m i r pVfc
IW* i* j't-+ \ ", SjJt
yiV %«i, -‘
i
jb : PBf idL.T V ,jp i
!j i m jk j? ^1j* TH
r3v-il ^Li^K “
Ifc ,i^—— •imr
j, 1
_J
L%: H
./fAL«
Kartv i in July 7r.
( Htej. an earthquake lev
steel the awaken ing ri l > P ki Eli n e L,l fT 1 1 d li^r 1 1 «,
iiii'd EHiarin|i ‘omi- 3,000 i[jig^ i?M-vi
HfJp soon flooded in frdm ihri-uidmut the
world. SJif1
1Kje began rtSEiiE from the njhhfa
foday l he i tl > > ticw irun- a ncl -1 ee Iwrirks,
dirndi^l and uthrr iad unities humfLuy and mghi, %t.mlrrht^ ihmnE ii> university,
aitd -M acedoman painters, poets, Whiter,\ inrl
musician* Vrin miematioh-il acclaim.
-Vrul >kopje continue* ru pro™ and liulrl. I
watched wurk start on j huge shopping ern-itT m\h two f\o**r± Mi UTvIerpound parkingBy I.W1, f w<h E okl* IOtVMX) (tats will havebeen coiiAlmeti'd.
fiZ-S
wWe're creauN» a totally nnv rsnd eMrerwtympdqrti i'hy," awaited Kisilk <;aii£t iheciEv-
energetic fiiiuminjc tfitraor "It wifl coni iv, u
Id Uteri dollars."
\oirjs Crowd si Kfbum S-kcipjt
Matedo n sail P resilient i : I rKivuramcn) DtK^ rhU 1 FEiini.iev ihrnks m even larger termsFormerly professor of public ftnanrr at the
Uii 3M T-ii> nf Skopje, he hcini* 4 republic ui
1 % million [h&oplc living on a moiihTiii:i.mjs.
s-cmi-and IjuuI the -wv nf Vermont (m&\h'I - 5^2-JfJ Over coffee jei his office if-
persncLnbJi- prosjixkrnf drew the pEciuse r *i a
linve-rmt republic upgrudin u iUdl
IHMKvE [113
“Before World War H,M
hi? Hold mt\ |fui?
I i-: ob1v n handful oi srtta II u-i Ji Ten
w
da* oaf factories ha e e OQiQQO workers Before
Jhr L'jirc li' |i nikc Lhrne w-crcti'l .1 hundred r -it*
i,r ^ kopje. again?! nmt W t-'vr had
k-h' vt-.ii hi ftvr mare than four veor*,r
He tupped the table cm phalli My. 'vM-we
li inm remain* alumt a third Imi developed
than \ UfSiliivIfi si n whole. But nowwe growfaster than any other republic In Jo year*
well catch up (WoJtknt fm±kc> prPgrea,*
3 >r. DiiBiirije Stefanovic^ of the KerHirm
Vt: Luiemy «
1
Sriem = and \ fl - . tmv c let S with
me thfoiiirb soul Her ti and central V ej, .eto^ 3®c*iSiL
An cncaniiitii Heart} man o i JO with a I'll t"
F"rbiddi , n alcohol h> thdr rcLii^ori, Mn -
kns SU'ptnrt imjov 11 oft -drink break In dir
Moiatjenefriii villain; of Giuinjcj near Ibc
AEhimklrt border I lie phiVEfijUiiFilacr. nbuftt-
jlw Litre ll^H the i iili' ' tcu.i 1 11 aped window.
u|i;lt( In- iiwn rnflprrirtn Iff 11 and itiai of
izi 1 11 min: imy- in I hr villas hi me*V.i.'K Slilf.ii.ir - . 1 1 1
1 ;\’.i '
I ! I i i faith of Mliammt'd ilLtricj" nearly >(h
i
year ; turkbli
r 6 i I Hut llnir M'intiTir ij7m mnubbar- ui Uil-
Serhiim Orthecbjt rite him rk resisted bath
Idam and the tnviiLti:T> wbm bitiuidii ti. t. en-
1 iinr -
1
! it
m
1 -i \ cjlsclr
-
L puttfOh re-in
L
iixi >-
by MonktLearo's fwr^tr'Wjirriori |si»t«|1 linir lhnmcianij% nide^ndcnte.
from (,lflftjrd, p I ir MfSain.ivii is amone the
Handful of r-cboku-. in the world whif scurtih
ou? lung-fofgblteii irsuiflv ir* Isolated mmuu^tuffc? -Mid rmlorr il to lute. In my cni-v. r |l wa_-
Liih knowledge uf Enfzlhh ralher than m^sit
that prompted Him to volunictf ns guide.
Ufteru as we loured, the roniinut&l baianc
iupi jitt between Middle A |p - and imh «:en-
uiry flunk'd ImiIJi of \x> SmiN m Matedimijt
one nit 1mi tie in Serbia'- aubifioniHUA tugiuft
of Kotos vo. we' watched formidable machines
rip rnol. lead, iuicJ -'Llic from the (jrminrt in
hium ti mncisre-j 1 rlinuch never cnmlich to aalb-
f> the demand
h
Thm. .1 fev miles Lit be* I -topped fu phti
ii'izrupH li pcitsanf ivom^tn leading ,i brace id
iKten up Min down afield while hcrhusbasld
ilkfit In'iuFiri Iiusdtlijg a w-mulni \An\\
Ai'itsH.- the mad ll luJL. leoLber-fclc^d Sbiptat
kd a sh+?ep to j wall , dtvw a Jana: k rofe, pulled
U su-iidy utTfiss ihe animaJ > throat. and huni-
the rorcass head dawn lo drain.
Presently^ near Hu >twM icity i'ii I V-i1
. weptiused id the n rht> t rescued t 4ih<ent!iry
i ^rtbodux r idler.! Ite£iini f re^dpgin
a fancied vaJlcy with rucked me iumaintmvcriiiK uverhead.
HMuv I >inLr for you?' indeed Dlntitrijr.
He crossed himself and filled the chut*
with (He ir'isLMc aud word- offc,A Hymn in
HatKif 'if ktnii Std'iui "8 t h^-.ui 1" - an atn ienl
„i 1 1
1
1 lurimiLrE] tribute he had discovered in 0
jseduded mofsaslert' in Greece
M -. eopnpfiJftion had brmipht the soniz home,
for Decani is Kin|z Stcfsin's nwn church Be-
fore us fcat peace in his orna^ ^qaphagixs,
rr|m:crj Lhat i Austrians kln^ H father of the
mi^hiy Tsar Sid an Diii&n T who ruled nil
Serbia d it> wn tt h fiOfi years ago.
1 left reluctruitiy. As vvu approached f lie
deep and IbrbidcLiiig Kuum o t}or^e, who^e
619
Yugoslavia: Six Republics in One ew t
marrow L-nrk-i rfiiV mad would lead us from
SltHill into YtnotLiwgro, a pulk tifnnA halt-
L'd olj jr wt\ Mi?thi>4)ic4Q> be i Kecked it, stem
U> 4tcrn: Li^Tu brakes, burn.. lire*,
Ml lie (rorg*: ls no plain? fat ;i breakdown,
explained rjur driver, 2 “-year old Slobodan
Popov sr shifting intn guitr ihiRgon"Fnr the next Ehnv hmif- we labored up-
ward liiriumh unit of Yttgu^viiiTi» wililr-s ai\&
l: mm lest regions. FruqsjrsiE h we h idled Jur
docks of steep* and hugged sheEr cliff walkIn |tT 1
1 r
i
i. j h ri l
L
n ti trucks and htl£f- eu-e past.
Thousands ofe feel below rail'd the aiigry p
toimiing Rtef l^&dk* Jiistricn, which h:td
rut ibis thasm.
At the summit* looking out front 6ptX r not
hinh Cater Mountain, Mnniunecr" - craggy
rook peakt:d and sloped mi all directing -in-i'-l
dw wind nippH hi tu \\x lunched In .1 -«miI-
sidu t;ilf on cknk dahs of * oar?* tmmd,
white cheese, olid s^our s-beep'?; jnitk *o hfcfiyj
with ctirA* 1 hat we aie i;t with spemtts
Mctfitacpn CtengeJess—anH rJuiDsine
staffed the ^mirims paiuiruifla
about iir "W't h.sve an old sajinp," hr told
it'. 1
" Hi 1/1 1 didn't kriuw what t.u do with some
extra rocks, so lie made M' intent ii.rn
Wsth hall' a mill inn peupJe i n an atea shphb-
ly litrcerlh m < dmuiC tic at. L his republic mak*
a> Yugoslavia's -smallest—hut siartdi fecund
to none in pride, spirit, and beauty
Sheep bells tinkle cm I be lofty slopes tfoi
lowuin paces 1. lugger* send umber crashing
down m 1 uinlatohits, the harsh and ilrv l.mrj
yields a reituLant harvest, lift b bald "Whiif
ifcj 1
-,+
asks the Mbntaiwp'ifi." fcVe huv.
(teedotn , W e 1 1 avc ahv ai s 1 u u nh I1 1 r sm I r
prudence No one has ruled u* for Inn-g."
To this day the warrior tradition lingers
] met 1 s I d hem^ wi ^h sw ue f1 i tig mi . - 1m 1 1 in ^ in
heard them bnsi^t orbuttles ivun and
valor nonpareil: middli'-aired vrtftfam u|
World War II tuld me. eyes Hashing, how1 they
struggled against the Fa^ci-si invaders N-i 1
wonder Thai in util ff patmirchy ihe birth ol
n sun ’Jgmds a TQusing celcbrnlbm. .1 diiiigh-
ler > arrival evokes -i i idtm r w-gponse
I THvtfMig in 111 them. MonleJieam,. I lei!
oddly tir.'ittful for Ibis atadet uf happy w ^ir-
H 1
1
r- Aobfg [ . . 1 k i- Strtd^S >li iri irm-r 1
1
.-: -a.i
tesrs I enzed into A lbamA 's forbidding ^ Ipw
ering irmunUuriK
Ed a world nf hostile bofdtrs, few ti iuch-
ler than ilus uml-, m Albania an ton-fitted
peyime— perfbaps even hB§s!w Ettutih ihM of
tiiiunland China— Vugod avia's “rievl-
aitoRisI^ brand ul Coiruminbm its u kind of
inbn"tious disease. "1 kp m*i >iniy close m iht
ftontitjr," ? hhl- ia anted-ifcTh^* tnlgfu ibont."
f hul not stray, hut tnsieml lumt-tS tonh.Ljaii: Anil j.lm\ r I I ml1
: .
l
I . Mi Ml-.: hich V]t
I age i>f K'etite. I caindit annibtu gtimpsr id
she future Yugoslavia.
In thk plarr where winter - tay>-iv Tnonlhs.
I sHip|Hfd lor directions .11 the sicrptopfect
house at Dr.igisa Krtrifel id, -i sheepman HrimniediBir1> left off cutting fire wood, u^lk'i'ed
me trmtde, and produced lirimetiuHe cheese
lliuI Lhrom-seiumjr slj^^vua Hu. attract 3vv
wife Milijauii nprwrl their S-day-idd ftp.iji;
iheir ^-y&ar-old Imy hugger l his father'- kiiet
H Perhaps our new one will breotne doc-
hit." said Mr Knezcvit "IfcciU? look alter
Us when wean* sick. 1 donJ
t.iv.nnt my sons rn
H'l-rk on l hr lorn I Er
i-- better to live m he
riiy ;utd earn a salary”
S ,4-1 :ijii' v u Eil L-mth I x* i> Ci ill ore n
Xow rn » davs in I he La ml ml the Southr "P
SJavf grew ’h«ai |b tu m Ihe remaining
pieces of this great m- ii* . Uiinltrije Sic-
fanoyic tind t flew In mountain-rimmed Sara-
vii, ciipitnl of Buiiiiia-1 h 1 djodiffi-
Here, at the caller A ugOHlaVlii canu to-
gether fur me, Here I mw Kusl sim I West
meet tuid miEigle os nowhere cbc. Ill Bi i^nia.*
HeriTgnvina_ d^etldanls <rf ihc (irip^tuil
Serbs iind Crnuk—^mr of them Mo^lcltls+
sctTir Ruman CathiTlUs. dinlrrs Orthodox
—
lEiakc cummun tiiu^e fa Yugcislavt And umtruns up arul d>>w n the uees like whi] notm
dancing trom a shepherrl's fluU-
1 ?nr mnmine^ in 1 hr narniw and twinting
streets of the Iniznar in Sorajevu, WC lidirun-rl
the ;srtiplf> of cnpiiersmith^ I i.m time rin g >ll(
VBktw- ^winj^er un assist fnjm .1 inj ml in Gtisinj* l.ifci1 -a many yunmg \ uyn
sliiv1* even here tn Xlomcnegro*# hJnicrlrtnd- have ailopied Western M.yl«^ ami
i^udoak—often Iiji ihi' froWT*' of viu.tire tildes: Fflr mfHlrsItj'i b-iike. llii? 1 nin i- sk-trt-L-
1 J
tufciW&ipiJcdatableclolh tii«nuirl her a irrt limb ahove supports her With ttttb
r« keep Them in I hr Tmilltion -1botmt! vtllagfi, IncTCtt-iing number' of IhertgiFfn'- } nil tie
people mkrrair trj Tituftrad, boots]me capftal -inr! alhttf l silica tothe up^rtb
tuavainmi vi r **!•+ ‘JC ti
jun^ F 9^ -
.
_ * _
r^. ** £Jr jW f 9PT 1
!1
a|
;
*'
;
fri
_ • * *rB i•_
| wl _ Tlii %-i. ,m
1
Ua liir mi miner ptijturoas A Muittct.i^na'i
her ion guide their flmk in
TTiifcLiti rnir. njucultnv; hum«v rdudr cat it
^c.L5 ;i- t rrrinH (J
i
n! c> su irnniir ^ -Jtiirn n
'
fir=i| itwiJ b^T/r-i wiJi bring lin-cn Slid*
volley djtiiln, ftfflipii’riTi^ .1111 il.h-eir ^™n;ilcVtli" in [hi,:- PfiflWe fastness
¥uii«rh"n"r if *
tmys and coffeepots, wlji II1 Moslem women in
colorful* billow in iz puntaloons dapped si-
lently pm with averted faces In tiny shops,
red -feizetl me rc himis beekn ned w i E h km iwmii
(Ws and inbred patience For mure than fmWcenturies Bosnia bowed to Turkish rule.
Not f'di away the Roman CiilJitjEk catlhe-
draTs spins reached heavenTOfd .s fese at
fund n -! the graceful mmarei of the mosque
of Dazi Husref-bey—a 1 Gth-ctmurv Turk-
Inh governor Beneath it. in a he courtyard,
£ beheld Starts of Islam's l.iilfif'ul. tv.ishing
hands antis mwl fatti Scon the mueziin
would call them to prayer.
A little fan her np, Dimitri je and t enter.-! I
the T6th-!'etjtury Qrlhodos Church of the
\jvhuiigd Mich act This was :i fcaM Huy; w ...r -
shipers crowded ihc mill church to Usui most
L!
, They tit candles until ihe dark smu k>
interim' flickered like a thousand fireflies
Stnst<omi!T Framedy Tripnr o Wur
Emerging, we mo veil uii ll few blocks to an
a nfamous ftfee t c dme r b V Ihc Miljac kit H i VC t
.
Ht’tt, im June 2S, Mil 14. a teen-mie Bwimiiier'b named tiavrflo Print ip >t\o t and killed
the visiting Austrian Archduke Franz JKiftr-
dmutid and hb wife—and touched off the
catastrophe of World War 1
Suddenly, while we stood in the jtaall mu-
scum LiiiiT retTiunt:i the event in ail sl> maca-
bre detailranother disaster struck, The room
rocked |$ctitly,light fixtures su1 aye ihand bahts
went outEarth quake'
Wr were lucky Sarajevo escaped damageBui the industrial nty nj Banja Luka, '^i)
miles north west* took the quaked full force
Two tremors It hours apart, cosl 18 livttt
and left many ii if ic* frU.l'HlH people homeless.
Once again* as at Skopje in ] all Yugo-
davm pitched in to help I write, BiiJija
Luka slrugglcs to its. fee;
t have fUi doubt of the outcome Mctady
the cry hm rung mil, as it has Mi often in this
troubled yut ini luma titble land.
“Zivrii 5-— Long live
!
T1
T H K PND
A.U
-
-fOld photograph* h\ I RfEDEKK K KENT I Rl SI OW
in the BushHE PRESSURE had been building up for a
Idng time Ktmr telephones on my desk Nineplants lo help manage—-one of the country's
major manufacturing corporations, with thousands
df emplttvees Dozens ttf labor onionslKvcr-iduuigmg
government resLiJatinns! One dav I felt so tired I
could hardly make II back home. M> old :famil> doc-
tor >d, id.,4
<h*t out of the rat race, or 1 won't have
anything more to do with you/1
I was 53 and completely exhausted, consigned to
roinplHf ret I didn't know it. the Hi hut 1 was also
on the threshold <i1 a new and no less absorbing fa-
rter: the photographing
of wild animals, pH mar-
t|y birds, to record their
ops and downs as the\
\ruiii 1,Mi i til ilit* t'lipirni,'Tytj • - ..
• 1
,f -> - r_.
l-rrs\ rru-lirii sCifl# Kvt'rt.1 tullr-i-v
sSLto to*#. bald caclrr To
oitdi Ihr StiiiB cii Wrd* in
.i£ fci rah Eli* ph 1
1
1 ’ij-jhi ilifcT
fpeysed in arb *Enrc cm t favsir^
Hr iwrrh Khfrsitrg l|i on ^ lai:
iHTliCJi. thl* '.lull, r-il.i'r • 'a h
i
l >-
In* fFtn . i'll i It. i «' ..i I-, i
r\tr1u1i Niii llkr 111 mlrjitm
In’
H
i' r> frrt a± 5ujck ibrmrkn,
,'iraif rhm<' brad
fur I isiLiner
Ely 3tudvlnK fab MiijJft’h.
iuilidpatint ihiHir Mt-ltm* sruj
ki i ;nr,K ii.il nf siEjlit. Mr,
[ ru-.ht>i huh miUiHfd ii cirih |ijtL-
TWCiPni frf iJif
w tv I b 11 - "L vihln | c mttufr*
fl1riliiff fc~hfTiivjHhalM. am|J3f it- > mf ijn
live utK4jm*«d tunl an retrained n. their nat-
ural habitat.
In (hi- |4 year* since- then. thi^ Task hub
iaLrid my wife Mildred and me to the four
tGtxim of Mir l iiitcd Skate- ] have huddledin cuncca brief] L for titbu&aDik of hours in
swamp- iimt in trees- and m muLm-iains, nmkmg terss of ihniii-aiich os rnLr.ir
)
nh-ciT p^sra.|
Ikl quantity hac never been tny aim, nor
mereh pretty|
mi' litre* My Iiku.h is on Fie
hnv'ior-—the prenuptial Manet, -lu.oJ tin: rftnt
whooping renne in Tcttas (piiges 6S0-TJK or
s he morn in e rou i ,i ai ti of 1
1
1 nse Li rjat^ bhtts q f
tin 1 North Amcnc-un cantinept* the i •• n r In r>
of California, whose witimsjwin ^mefimeiJfruclifc* almost Id feci. As the van n-i - lug her,
the eondor.K yet warmer* and put down their
blink feathery hoods Epau.rs 6r i-4 -S >.
Erie's f oiiccrn Optfrw New \ islas
1 1 with- th&nky In m> w ife Mia! t tint -.nuleii
on my ph Lure-taking cam-r After 1 was al-
FnWdhl in leave my bed, but still nut permitted
tu ijci tn the office iri New York, I prowled
around our home in New Jersey week after
week, sirmmi? i" get bnck to the Job. She
r-jid. Why iEr iii ! wr take n tnp somr where?Van have ofinn talked about [lie Everglades.
|jtt‘s till iJ uW
1
1 and lonk dfrJidld-
We bought a Nation iveimft anil when wecul to r ouoa Beach in Florida* ,? till meiiLaoiifd
that I be Cruifkvikmks lived close by Whytin! spend t hi- evening wilb them?
J krnvt of Allan nnd Helen \. Hnckdinnkasa noted tl j m of wildlife photographer*writers.
A3 tan often lectured for The Audulran Society.iBIkLt they \wv m Rye, New York** I -aid
Mill said Else;, had moved rimvn here
How did sIk know? Sfre .Mid.s,
l didn't tell
eoujjut I Went tu the Audubon headsman fr-
aud found oul ci Tul of Mumps. The Crutck-
shank:' wall he glint m ti-i"
It was a wonderful evening, full ut tidk
alioui v hthii 1 pli"im:ra|ih\ -and, ai i| turned
Nut, a 'Eeirkive turning pujni far y-- Th< nvXi
day ivhett we rolled into Mbunh At ill mi-
nimmn it hid W u W cj uld st of i and^lie k up nme
photographic equipmefn ,i? rfn iir*i camerastore we satyr
I ^aid, “fVt gat .i Brawtik and three rnll-
of film What imu'r do w? m ed?"
Site opened hi f purse1 Helen t ruii k^Jj.uik
^ i me this list," iht- snn|
After Eruar liours m the store, we emergedloaded down and drove on so Key Largo, to a
vntilel ‘tirvihg a center for Aurhilm!. Iiirri-
iVLitchln^i trips. Mill had found out aboutl\mU too
There we kftmtd ilui! the glnnoiis M pinks,J
—titone formal! y known tv-, msvate spormbilbi pages ^.-o-Ti
—fed in a puml .1
1
1 -? dnwnthe raadt not far from CnwpcnA keys, whL I
was then onrufiti^ uaaifci ruoju nt- in l hv Eji^I
1 sat up most of she night trying Eo feutbom
all ihiiE camera equljimciit, .md left at daivn
for I be pond 1 had never ft pmk Ittlun 1
hfotV 1 135* lAcrlina in tli t- mar 4iy WAtfifS
Bia! when l set up mv tri|ni<| itnd the resl or
my gear, I still ilidn't know5 Im to w^rk it
Omil Qf M ret tmi Unlocks Another Dcmit
Ah old pscktip mirk stopped and a man in
ouidocir.sraanNclotht^^ pi ii nui_'rhis was some-thingMi II Imrin'i plarnerf; i> wa-jus-t nvy uwngood luck. The strunger wjis Robert Porter
Allrtif i hr National Audubon SocletyN iv
search director, abo charged with supervis-
I ml: all The Audubon bird refuges m the { 'nilcd
Sloths NoWh during the ncFting *rea_',E>n of i I i-
pink5, he was keeping an eye op ihdr ruoker-
irs in t' lnrirja Bay.
\\ e became Inciirh, and ifrfe great riaEtimJ
bt look me in hfo patrol boat for my first held
trip* with a cfimtra I nlil ht died, \ e;ir*
later, Lie trnvekd Eosether a IciE and collob-
n raced fill -i s n .i I C.ri.k:haphic orticlL1
:
7M i VI Ji: 1 1 wj-oi r .u ill V E r ( r u lo* j ltuj U aU-1 "W ti<w i|i-
ItiE Cnnw Fp^I l" r ^uev!vitt«M
SftL-cmljfir IfSJfeM gmc-
u(£ S|MnnbilK FMintii hinh of thu Gulf Cawt," h i-
ni Lin- I Ifj
J
jui! (Hu Only Kuclvt Si i irk, the Utrin4
Jim/1
I'rliruary I4M,
Nliplial JijlCrjr
the inmiFSisi */i:] -el . wum b_v Imth
nearly dimmicd thi> t|^de^ in thi* carl} IW* Bitmari
dauiihushed ihmiflarifb fnr rlunr plume?, then worth twice thtlr
wpujhl In tfulai For s«i cnUnf summer. Mr li'a+lnw wu* hi>
EU»e«il vl±ifat ai a ntir.wjy -r5 vgn-t^ m l hr N digiutir of
Tew, dtentui m a LJintl wh%‘w kmperatiirr^ ttinci-tl
a u high J i&" ¥ hku.k-l]iihun^ lJEih4Lnk-i , ^ e his heauly, wFih:1i
Lull rtupEliiE plumugr (wily LVhiJr cotlrthi $ and rn ^tioy.
t-rf wdlLp# * . Ituiuii !m ihl lu-- * >-H< +> 1 , |
V ’, 1 M#. -
1J
i IAt'
"-I
IV ia
j
H WiA. m j
||P h 1 -J^F 1
[
New arrival. j. h pitt Lr r| sandpiper rhirk aj.ikif* his rMnjt
in -l ptmiihH 11H nii-ir IdL.n:u. Nltvs Yiirk, Pippii^ ilu*1 agg
Lei|
j i b L h l hutclilEnj. -Eru^Li 1 = trei\ H.-em tlair m^lhfi tiivirr-
him vk Li9a her winn labovei, ,i purtri ci^iii Jilting drying nut
Site i Jit mIu-JL Jn hrr b'.-cik und hurb n uell
aiiiii fc'rum ihe xi4--t Hull Imitr-d/tl ifrWk Jriijilj walkh jIE
mvr hU ixtotliet un \wi Urjirty n> Jhr dy nn For iwu
ivcei."- iJir fmr^ri.L» wjk'h m. ihfEr otfflpirtni; bun to n|ji p
(si^Le4. I» VI
i
HitTirtimr* -mm: ilu'n ihuy are un their own,Hl_utr U li Attltr to do with mnhint; |?tcujTf% like Lhb.“‘
Mr. TrusloW., whose j admits [iuIujui: through, two week* of
libwrViftiofl rewarded him with j rcnnjfclEtE Lamily iJlmm. Hh-
hucsdii-il1’ o| shut* [liken in 3t2*|[llffjicE provide a ddbitivc
julilDtml ut haw iht sfK.«tiorJ sandpiper ifpkrnub& it* kiaid.
633
Bob A lit? it and I had been working ihe
pinks for a couple of Wttks when t heard
'Jiiii Mi$ Loi lie \\ hiM- in Bornestead, Flor-
ida, had pot up a feeder that aUrae'trd an m-cradlhly lifeuU fill UUlr bird. thr juiio ted
bunting Willi lit-]* I hrmitfil n
stool to ill on Lmd fntdjed mA iivo-fuiit-lnm*
fefl?- on I lie Itifdi't
he malt? huplinp are urtii ami nui umsplcuous Svyernl tame and fed frequently
Bill 1 wsis after the brilliantly cofered mate—a fftshRktl pibie m Id La1
,^retrii, and red ipa-.iv
{j.Wk— and be would*. * come out of I he bitshe-
t hat therr all day and never gm a chance
gt the FTuiie I sal there all the mrxi day loo
Mdl bnuiuhi me a ahdwtcli for luti«:li
On flii,- third ilny, atiit ukui ivtih a Western
hal stepped up and ^aid, "I am Mrs Wilke*
brother i rruty l speak lo you F 1 He had lUr^ ; I
beared off the biutftpfpst 50 I said go ahead.
He ^Ltiri, “In tht mumme, W'hcn I di^vc,
you sll nut thtrrr I h*Vtr breakfast and > "is're
Hlit I liu'.tr I jji i lor ii \\ tdk. L ha vc lunch and a
nap* and you still haven't unwed
"
I l ik 1 1 H him lli,Hi Lhts is 'A hflL vou IkUr fn dom
to i^et the picture you want.
"\\V 5 l,
rhe ?+u'l "3 am :i i UKUn h;u k home,
and C m hen tn rest m> nerve*. But seeing
you 4 l tbtri mill inn Scsr. ail day lunE for two
fifed u hull day* has yjol mc aJl upset For gbshsake-, will you move hist once an li while
?
Or haven't, you any netvts in vour hndyt w i irulerni whai ht would have said if he
had -ceil me jumping tlrret months earlier
in Mew York Hue h vms quite tnn w]i«| I
Wfa> duLiu: now wtU having a w under fully
udriiLH” effect un mu.
Bird Behavior Fills a Hoy j Notebook
This lift waj> rent: wine irlni.^b That had
.ib-j irbri l me Ml my youth. Then I would often
jiet up at fernr lu the momine and out into
the fidibk luwkftift for lifcd&Ahd w rib in- <k>wn
whfll i hey did IY| come hack just an time lor
breakfast, and then walk a mile and a quarter
to bchnol | siill hay ! some of thn-u? nld field
r if iIl-- Hrjfc! is- an i n 1 ry made wh* w I w I n
' Manh ), l'MB \V underiiiu hoAv he would &J ry
i H
ULtl it I Wftfched ii WbrlrbiXTastcd nulhnidi carry tiff iu> atom.Hv look the mil lo a luT^hborin# Ifix and, climbing aImje live
fret, stuck ft, in a erevfae formed hy the bark (livifig it a few lap-to lodirt1
it firm iy t he removed part <]if iht i-heiL Then esmv 'hr feast,
tasw » dtf1,rn “ d <Nl «Jji, Ik- 1‘iiioyfd hi* hil-.i], • ' .
it Fell (o the ground hut lie patiently replaced is and finished at bis
leislm1
, hLtnpng ben-! rfuivn
l iitd t Irt'l home. 1 ypi1 n | morr and mure tfam- in (he WUods,, obbut then I wifft to called And Ul work—ms ftlumbcrjark m
Mainfri as a 6$-hour-a-week operator in 4 ^u.ihi.-rti cm (ion mill, as acoiton broker in New York, and t lit1 n in she big niangiaituriiiu tur
pardlttiti Them was no more tame for bbdss excel «r on an nccajionaJ
i lay nit and I hen I I'-mUln'i realh relax because ] ajw kmftv bowmm t would bt luck under |nv--.in .main
Rul LiV somewhat like having Jenrwd to ride abfcycJp—you maynor have done it In vear*. blit you car still eeL un uric and ridr
r
early field ekjxrknce, the sense nf pleasure in ul ih.tyinli patiently,
i acne buck to me—just Eke that
hivcrgJuiiL * Vfsdf Sltr* MGemuftp* ni n VmOhiul CtosaiU1
The N-ets ing of l h r K vi-ridiidcs also bro u \i ]u b m. It -tfong tmolft ti -
!-i my boyh I 3 had been appalled at the slaughter of riqgreti therei
}ning courtship and nesting, they sport nuagndii vtu back feathers*
l»njt and ? inwvv whits- ipugp ft.irj, mnd fills tbeir misfortuneMi.ni immr lo * tub and shunt them* aijt’l rhirn lltensliy tnre them in
pksees, the dead unit I he wounded alikr to Like ilndr plumage,whirl i brought high prices as drconiHori fur lodies
1
hats Youny,
Ǥret* won? left HelpSc^, to starve or be esteB by pndilffil
I Wrote m t-.'.-u idmnt tbui when J was i•
, and it u in . Junior
Ynfiuhon prize .ind was pub ti .-Ted in Ititfmrii-wn weekly Tilled
"A Tragedy of tbe TwenlJedi f.’imUiry," ii wa* a p+tNsiMrmle pJ0a.U1
I 1 ladies to stop wearing white plum*.- In«)bri« ,tl] the egrets werewiped out- The si l nation rcall !
. Was us dismal il^ J | mJ 1 an I 1 bill mydesc ri pti an of thi* Lrerstades—thu SpiinL--h moss, the *1imy rmui, Ifni
Itirkm? - roca4Qe—-prang majiily frnm m> rendinfE rind my imagi-
nation. I luid nevir bcirn Ihere,
Nmv, 'n many yems l&ifi . t fuiiiid the rtHaJity iTnima^lruibly more£:atnpclliPig, Egn-^ vein- thriving—ibanks to 1 change in Inditf-
1
fashions, tfi suite and federal laws enforced by diligent warden
^
provided hy the Vuriuhon Society; mil PH he prohibition oi hunting
III What biirj liri i'me rhe Everglades Natimml Park. The crocodile
had btidttw a rarity 4 but then? uprrt m\ h |u]i e a few alfigitors tpages670-7 J j l hi-> hi^lperl tu hold diiwci the utimluT1
* ui rarciKHw andLit her predators that might ullwriiVise decimate ihe enr^i rie-l**
All apumd me I could sense wteti a chttlliiige SI wrou!d be to
Unzipping a lake, » him k skimmer
L--iv.Tr bill 4ice - t ti 1 watf;r of Uanr Bay
PoniJ Jrt Iht- E'.vMifLndt^ r hi- tiird pJowi it furrow
— a* Lmnif .i> .i humfrciJ yards—to atlnui minnow^
in I hr ‘ilrfaLT Un .1\>iis\ It _- riiip - Lticni
up l hr fuLa f Imm- utmost sajtomiitSrjiily cm riwaLact
to portray ihc ^prcdhig skimmer only *'inH ta fred
in I his nuuirnT. Mr Truslow pref^Awl ™a \nd a\on& th^ line *nt Itiuht
gwAi^f mh*h4 ikirfit. nr- .11 mliri *HhUNRiiBi it c iMO
i m :.'sllrj/H^frwr fifkarm npli w-
Mrs, Woodpecker
moves her eggs| -t-rvirij- .1 ji.iir mf pilt-.iiL-ii
^oi idpei ktr an ii
drill! Irene- in the Everglades,
S a-
I ru.: 11
1
i-Vt LumctJ ,ln
1 1pi
I ii i U break hi In u ph^tuk
^iphir rrumiph As he-
welched J'rnm hb blind, the
"M led tiPfi I or I hr Ittr Sifnke
nfT Irltfciujt t tiifed nt>t ronflr
ili viiiiv rj.[}ii±rd JrnrFreiiimely
tbr* frinslr EjTOiJieit jli-i
Hi iin'h in In-r heak unrt
fliiw ppsl tirflh it, vatibi^
tUS0nf| l hi!|mi ii;* Hilt returned
3>?i ilnBeKJGi lh«H i hr
shltd ,dl uillno Ir. mnnii^
What iin .u hit1-- ifin nl
'
u-ri.p- |atrn?,d t-trJTPHIt
rutuniiLvi |vh.i|i^Ei.1;rhEr Hem.
Spjbiwmn <?f t Ki picture, whirh
pW« ih* hjrd' 1 -Lirthri.-jnn
id jun beyond qiH&tktn.
i'.Tiihn^-.io rrii'j^ ittt(tli 13-U .l.hn
What makes
bitterns blush?
t "I Id bt lose 1/1 Mr Truhlow
Into* aftrr ttfaiervlnit and
pfartoKfiiphiniJ ihih nrtiittL'
[jiiir uf ka-' bittern < tin
MuwJoiid Idaftrl, Xliu VcprL
Use bifrd> Luke Eum*
itn:ubaJjtJt eup-. jud JrftKiil
itty fihkb, and m*a?* J.I
nr -
1
chunu^,-. jJhiui. every
hour TJtcrniLs here. 3m th
' bliiirh." the UciitruJ-tnliwd
!3r$H oL ibeir litres turning
fed ft>F a few ict olld-'
When Cornell Uttlyernlv
i in:n!iulnuL:)l 1 .5 ' Aftbur \
\ I It n M:|iinied tJsi- |ihc
ftyniriiun, hi' uncoil niered
skeplicftrtfc Hue
M r liuskiw1
^ imu^EM
1 1 k r^r li-ijr. 1 41 h - 1 1 hi unkdit
I hi s Ivhituitr 1
1
_i n r a 1
642
Switching mothersiar
in midstream
'iTiMplkiilik hflLi^nr nftefi
\mm Hi hizh\ through
wb]h±S]U' (diiiC.qlpi&ii-'by/1
rmii1 - Mr TrLastihW Tb-i>
Itlim-d m Bear
Kit er Njitimtu] Wildlife
Kfl UK- , * iiih, EHcwttwe-
ihi |hfL«i Tin* hiar*
iu?» teimrtt Ui'hH'm
IIIhI I hear L i r i m ! L-
Miiihcr numhrr unr
tTLj.6ur- aIu n i> tLitfil with
L tirrr IiIr *:huk jilmitl tWJ>
wrtk> call L. One rtils- mi her
ij.hr k: -.hr inw - iw* Hitler^
wIik him hi 4 nth !i - I lion ln 3 J>
Alu-im '.'fjitcc^ incii Her
immU'i it*, u, With two little
i htrL* a-Lriin* hrr biurk
ki-hlrr lu rriiTu u ni I ' Sn liiwk-
airmiiiiiL Kutthtr number one
fi.jiiJfllrjt by, with ertw cfoiek
still httn-ipm; and tbt
other twu CrnilitiK. her tono
iH>l *hownJ
Shurth IfLitr. P
Ljnspcii be re, Lbe Iait thick
of miittiei nuflibeJ *jj i e
d*u|j(jed i>[T hrr hack,, and
hef entire bfi^xJ ywujti ovit
to niotbet Mum her two and
LhJtilinJ CrtatiJ her 3iiu k
crvbtiij^ sunk'
A ’ii! bobltliM In I be
jurfjtc, nutthzi nun^btr two-
u| u i >,i * Lf v I riwi-:
|iirl u nr Si
veil 1 1 h t*r ij w rh tw o * ltf-yi nn n
itlil on her back arid
1WO iijjOj'tr'Ji rtlrlw gamely
knURim on. Her jrac k?
ili^oLEi j.i;rd t he i ilhrr
wouM-bc family me-mber.
ii^ho follow pd mi 4 i^i-mnrr.
. IL^iLi iLTikjlh SO inLlL'il fflrrU li.rMLp, fuuilil- tu br wniri it mm,' I
1
., lit till|
ialli. i‘
The anhitip;, or £fl#kebird, yEippioji quid Iy int r the water; suddenly Ivc unK iuW lu^ hm]E
f ? I coder neck. $hootiojf his needle-sharp beak ten xi sud, Ma-wer-injac a &5h ipa^e i
': Or the osprey, ' living in k and with hi* talons carrying off
a hnb— nn.Hr forward, like n torpedoh
i wll* thar* Highly tnt nautili.
l4ikr Chat spring when I hi-1 Imit began tL- tizaX dmvu on tin- Ever^Lide-
we went north to Bomiventure Inland, in the i in If of Si_ Lflwrt^oct* where i\w
Stine, 1 1. xv J 1 1 c e sea gtesv, nr vmntts nre as den se . in the words ofa ! ft t h-centu ry
explorer "a> an} field or mcdciw i> of urasse" ipflgr> t?4h-"r
By now 3 knew it for - iare - E would never wLtnf to «n hat k to i hr offire
.train T-tkimz piriatn^in she wild w a- tlir I 1 E 1 lor tm amt Mill ucxet.l
Dt- ta.rlftlir-H.E {JuftRest^ 1 1 u Gl >GrWJulJi
Vs to my color slides, 3 though c some were pretty goiml anti 1 projected
1 hr tV r In r n r I• < >m xv h i -.w 1 1i i m I Jr John t ’ railhead , a ^ etc ra n • on tnh
utm in the Nat eon At. I TtaKJkAFEtlC* I oh) the tTTitjtaihmts editors rn Wash-ingi'm, 1> t'!., and ihcx invited me to briiiE my Mi fits pi ihcir offices. Ah offirr
'V iu* the last plan: I riersv xi'.mrnJ ru ao to, even if only far a vbit- On the ttfher
katut 1 fu-d ujuw n Lip with tte mugaiirMk u*hiuT my father and umudljithtf-
ixvo nf our izmridsons art fifth'bgEP£TOrmp member nr rhe Nsitiosial id:n
jr.ipi ii i 'in ki\ Its people, 1 knew, were pioneers rn color photo^niphy. and
[ could certainly benefit from their iidvke
Edwin ) (Buddy Wbhcrdt then +:h ief of the .Swift v'- pholitustftphic' laho
ratmy. took orju ltmk. and said, "11: row all these pictures away and -up-i
ihe rrjchi him for your purpose."
T asked what wrnnii with my film.
Ht hftHifshi out two similar 4 id re of a worn tin's head K for me to examineH-iEli h iU'f-pnwrr majpiifyitig das- The ) an tun- on t la
. type of him E hadbeen uMii^ melted Into fuiidnrss The other r nts Kodachrome, xvnx >harp
1+The next thma to do,* jiaid itodrjy,uh to throw out all this sUjff, Vbu're
read} for better equipment" He took tm cu an d ufU-r three
limn- ( had u nrw roElvcUor oS leni-e^ mud ^ati^etrx 1 also har| stimxibdinu
irrU of eixrnur^^emcpt fmm 1 ir Mi-lvillc I5dl tirnsvenor, then the hocw.President and, Editor and now its Board Chfti^tmiii and Kditiir-tnd/hief
Mill ini II Ijpadrtl Urn k m Flnrida P xvhi'n1 m had acquitted d winter huiui
just ciutMiip Evergladft NaE.iuii.il Park* itrui isptikfj down to work Iheelusi 1-
•
limp kins These iong-kvp:i:l xvater birfls rai iheu name frniti their pci. ulbir
x)r l m.drjfc phoin|OB|khcil (lie MnlV fth!».iiui ^l'Ilcijj^lii- - iim11ic-I hiii-ilTl,if 4 i
--l|«ry. bmJ.m
«ew1 WwW Tn*ni fVlrfP*Hi m thr jipLv t ijn-* I^.hikaj'ilei:
Amorous moose Sturgis t-m'li-nJl to t>Tbid| with
the iiiiE urn li*T-pholafn* pher . who surprised him mrS
1 n>w 1 vii |?J^ K'Vs^Ee Nj'ltiii nal iJark m Lakr SupcriEur E hr
3 ,fri mi-pi pi 1 n rt rriale„ attrarred hs the rlitik i*l a tri|HKb
rhar^l Vfr. TrudoW. who hnrdv itiaiJ l\mv tu «mmliu'
in\'~* a nearby rarnpprritjnrJ Fuui-to Wilh (Mllx Wire
.1 Tt i^ntnis Fijit r nnrr-jilrneril hr waited rVi r 1 ' hfuTt pi mndlng
TtiinaEo while Lire enrairfd hemt «nnrted and p tweil tlii:
ETOtird in frvml id him
Flnahii the rottr diX'ert- rl l hr hull = iltf-ntion, arid Vjr
TntslOw 1 nr heft onl the screen dppr, diootinsr pictures aU
the wav—this -me fftrifn only .it leelu
l \vu> taj -H.Ltrtir ) Pell
there WB’ a lend trill pn my -tnmai h.’' he maib, “iml
I 'Sirin 1 ire: ihr «hake- until it whs all over."
i.l-l1- r> Ai\.r-, -hmilrYir hnfhl J Iwwin ij|
-
i— r I >n hi-. K-Illi' Pifi(l!l ‘ 1 - i.
GamiL'ts lit: In tor living room%mm
On IhiTum1 i>h I jkI iiFT : hq-
' Pi-mrv-iiJ*, n^ft rhcruiinrU
nf ihi:t< kvu*: hint*. fiinEi flomifv
vviLhsai parkliitt ilbtpiK r ai rL-
nrisdjiJiiFr^. rnu*t IQtid interring ly
• *n siii-jf iiVrTi. liny ifirirmy «ir
rink iioleLiIi- Oni* I’um^r righl i
mi-'i.^. ib murk xm\ r u Iff r? bcarl
IwuLy Imm ibrr.v rails'll ban It
finally rcsmb^s brume, licitrinE?
l>UH H.h W I lUDf! - iInwvr i
VVhsJi’ be i htuiijinil plimii^jaiph*
-i! iiirf-^ Miblmi M^trCuirhcrtii
rmilii'ft ii -kl h**\ Lirii-i rrtntc,i
beauty fin r.mVA* llefti Wilk m*
r-'iimiLJfidL nay!- MiFL "J kjm hr
Wlttl wklEf It\id\ in a bbftdH
A/arui lihj .. |
* n.i. rnilb M-J i— b»i-
646
limping w*t\ ThviF favorite food i* the iivsh
water ;i1
1
|
i L
t
1 ssusil and I wandered: How do
they rstrnrt thr 5tuilf wrilhoul hr^iltaitM ife
?ihtr1L imd i I t!L.| ii
i
l* thr tmiigh imp door that
ijtii-tnis it against thr nut suit- world?
Thu 1 i m ]i k i i l wcH^ttd astutfl Liitti n track in
i lot: Iti' waited until thr -in mi ruLuii'd and
rht1 tmp tk mr optned slightly Then htj daried
hi* bitJ ttledklr ttnd jitrkrd mst ibr rneuT Myn-piiri i i i ha- appeared in rra> first 1\vai-
GHAPHif ,mk. Sc But far jtkjit? frri$iwmJy,
I '*
i
l' k r-:n|i rliHir Li|*hth shut. Ikn the
limnkin iorciss the luivtr pome of hi? hQ| be-
tween leap cifmr [tnd shi'H Steadying (hr shell
with the upper Idlk hr t
J
li1 lower hill like
it can tiprnfr—iivi sting ami prying until the
IrnpnflrKir must Jl* k i til-
ll i> surprising how mum people take u
duel i mturest m wikililtr behavior afipr read-
rng abtnH it eh the Li trmhaph ic Three net i red
Indy teacher? from lnroirto wrote me tha*
they wanted in l onu 1 and sec those I irojik in-
sure enough, they did
In Li Inter article m\ pictures- showed the
borne tire of bald rmiles—liww they nil:-r twoyoung. with l he sHtuh-t'. fir.4 trying it walk in
the ticsi and falling oil their beak-, waningtip preen, aiiil finoily« at the age nf " ntonSh-,
learning to fh f When ll lawyer in I.Hruti
read th*s t hr turned over hi - case.* Id partner*
and drove to Florida to see the eaahs-
:\n article id join ihc Everglade and the
wild) ilif? I'lripblenrs caused by disrupting (he
hv ;n it supply, appeared in .i n October i— n
I couldn't work idling the major (rail* thal
•^Linipkin, ihfr ^CryitiB jtfciir Thai t-Luittii Flufldii
Nwampi'i,' Jinnao "
t' 1 K i
. i' Em V.w Wit h > ,i,i£]r 3s" J an n Uy IWftilprir- L'i H-V'^rcl wIih NSniiuimi!
l h-fcnbtr I'>i7 .
64r
winter be cause mi many | ieu] il+- asked ihv
^irk mnibcft rn |Kiini tncoiH and then slopped
In ask questions I fn i:l1I> moved rm nut min1
1
1l mAngnrve wilderness
Tivii prominent niirgirQfl^ from Washiug-lon, D. ( \ urne iif>WU lit v Lh it x \ The v i hiin :
kiu>w much about phtHujrnLpfiy. hui ±uun (fell
um ire Lt.’ si ii1
1
1
\ijw one 1 1 E Mii/m hi! yeui
.ifitT yem to jihotopzTJLi jti wild Hewcrsi in she
k«ii kifc* Thu other Hikes mi hour off, when,
ever lit uui ¥ tu make pictures. ill the National
^ookipirfil Pstrk in VVii^hin^tutL ami pboio-
irmi'hf f« erylhifijr ifurn «irl< rs l«> bird? onWeekend? u£ his farm in Virginia.
Tin? fe sm .^i cir\ lt> dm: ihcr-ic donors and T s
ran heartily recommend m i-r rmk m people
mure <u lose inm remt'Tii but mi any-mit,
at any agt You c«n adjU" 1
it m hi >-«mr -t hed-
ulr -irul i iur nrainistaTices; you tan $|Hmd a
few hfrurs un ftrectertids at a bird feeder in
your burkyi^rdi in a psrk. of at imy place
iJmt iiltmcts birds
Plenty «[ SubjetL < lose in I limit'
In short, You don't have to I ravel all overThe vmrM, ur ;pl over the country , to d>> ml
wildlife photography Nat is thfe Hdrmthtngrink u lew I'NjKT*-' tan do Vcm don't Tivtd nnawful lot uf high-pHied er|uipmcn! cither.
Let's be spetfRi Beside* film. \uu nwd jupi
four item,-’’ a camera body. n lens, :i tripud,
and a h Fin d in hide in Then it1* up to you.
Vhv i.
l
m e
r
;
l
body J u^r js ;t -l^-nijltimvtcr
reflex tv|«? Y< m needn’t buy an apetufivr mu-,
hi3t a gm*d one. The camera I unttj for five
veal's can be purchased for about Sl.lCJ jlhe
nimcra budy alune, without; lens I
.
tiopd len!ifr‘ Lire c^jirrtsm-* but fori unaLety
you don't need a whole lot at them, one will
do—-a. Ifi-int hfUr H-power. letephojn left*,
caked a 4-UQ-millSm |!> r 1 dei 4ii j>erceru of mywork wjih ibis lens Tbfcrt is ,i tut tA luriiover
in lenses^ and if you Hit not In a hurry yourun pu k up j top-notch secnhilhiimi Tifl}-
mm for about fir'Hi, or less ihon halt the
nriuin.il cost
By the wa> r mttinfion a Udepbniu lens andli lut uf pftjpk jztft the idea that you i\sn jusl
sit in your bvdtig irom Lind photograph wJmi's
on far, tar away You cimld try but
>i>u wouktbi mui b: your birds wouldshow up »i-- un> >p«:ks. F.iut you want the
framed of sour piciuro pretty much filled
with your birds, to net id I the detail \ ou can*
for ^sAmgjmSr Thus ihe four spoonbills tmpage? hl^ bjrrt^, ahom Ul inches in
length—were shot at '3 feet. T3ir F.iartfd owl
levdinu her youogp on pact's was taken
at 15 leei r .ii li I the iiL'st full ul Iktk- frail 1^
fiytate hers on page 658 at six tVet all with
A 40fJ-tnm Kdcphoto
Knv a poor! tnppd, sturdy A©4 ^-ntsily ad-
luslahlv S N^ii might cost atmut for ahi: ml, 1 use a ftap IV nt, nmdv fur hunting,
‘.vjch v^im. dippers sewn in. It costs sorrow hatless shun SbO. ur vmi am make vour own
You ran get pin turn wiltu«uT li blind, but
you have to he extreme K ||Kk> <u yuulJ
never catch truly related, natural art imi
while your subject wai l hi-- V!>ur fiiOveTn'isntA
C Jiic:l- uiu enter the blind and sHiv in therer
Foni! enough, you arc coniplcttly outside bis
menu! sucl.uri.% am I he will reliis and -in
nalitmlly E have ]ih<>Eosrni.phed an ml-ull
isnilc dropping nfi in '-leeji i inly l vet irons
my hi i rut: witbrntt a blind >nu LViuldn't ^vl
a it Ins i link a tulle be kite Fie \v6uld Laker off,
Thi cost of all tliu..equipment adds up in
1 1' v- 1 h : lil r. th« price of a mediocre second-
hand car Voull have fcb buy film, oi rnurse,
as you up ulimg, but tlus will hArdJy be mnreof «m cspeiSM' ikin gas and nil would tie fur
tk car. If vmt can't .-dl'nrd ihai, you'd better
forgfil Aboui serious viprk
En^b'ih Siajiifi'fiws t limit BiUm-r Engfes
Vftery ^ur initial Invcutmtnl >m i need rime,
patfericer
irul, Above .ill. ciperiiuiici Fur the
beginnEr, ii\ best tu s.Pcri at n bird-fvediuL
sLaiiotn or at it place where bud- come Mi
drink You'll learn in tnanl pu lute your equipiii-iii i .kA. until y^ou dn ihis ilJu'm >-
r aUUrualcnlly^ with mi t uisming abohl ii .ti all Youfnust ilsu leaiiE all vuu cnJi uIjiuH ysTLtf sub 1
jn:1'* hidiavior, so that yuts can untldfHttc
wbat he is likely tn ifn; ipS herwi^r—except for
a ease of sheer luck, which clfrcsjTt happenufttn—ihr Liictfon you waul U* photq^rApli
will he aver belni'e yuil can Mpicnre the button.
To improve your timing vou can’t do Lei
ter (JiBfl to focus on common bird*, say ardi-
ntiry Engh^Fi sparrow^ At a feeder After a El.
yn tj r+rn’i expect work eaeits die lirsi dayEagles don p
l fniTH 1 tn ieeilers. of COttJM,
nor di> an> of the big pr- datura noi ihr tfum-petef sw.ms nr wboupjnc craites These aru
among the wanes! of birds, and mLJfcl he ivyj -
proaCbed mu-1 i njefuily. Tht firM nme.dnn i
jniy directly low'onj thecn Mead I nr a point
nearby und iii li while Or ju.-^t w-"alk uwiiy,
coittL" back Inter, and i*u n Ijlt i.lo^cr
Before .i bird die- oil., he* svill -tart to fidtu:!,
a TEp-t^ff i hn| he is bstomitis agilited and maytake off in rush. You tin n’t want to reach
048
Uuu ptitim 1ml ml her watch for signs that
he is getting uneasy, then whhHriiw uhd irv
again The idea i- to i umlilum him gradual
ly. wit hunt rvcf ruishitii^ him over the line
between disturb Lillee an r 1 r'uar.
So
i
ti t1 [itopk: think a camouflage suit helps,
i1
1
,
i
rli really dor-m'l mailer v. hat you wear; 1
think h - In - Krlfiti l"t thoujEil1In have on ibt!
hiintr kind of clothes evety (4a> t'hi- beM
camouflage s* to went imieLhmii iht bird?
hn\i? E.riimn 1 Used t • With some. Lu be sure
that am take quite ;i while Vficr weeks
of working gnklen eagks on a 11 font cliff
near Uvitlgstoft. Montium, I still had to ltL
fniu jan\ blind aJ 130 everv mimiiiiit. before, -r
1
there wi%* -im light, >o that they couldn't see
mr a; rill
The ones least (itefv tn brcnme ibsiurbed
ure $eii I unis Jiving in colonies such as. sail '
iu iL> anri brmbie- You cam approach i lose in
them hJmmm is yttti arrive The pruh
lem may be how to keep a lot of them out of
the picture, so as not In s^-i more than the h so-
iled number lIlk makes for good compos tom
Seerel of » pMlhn Portrait
Retort string up any equspiriFnt, E nlj-LTu
each new subject until l hiv* its behavior
pattern pretty well mushed out I learned
early in t he pme that such patterns nm vary
toTi&idcrab^ , even within the iiuiie ipt'i ie-.
—
and make Jill the difference in the world hi
tin: phoiojrrnpher
Consider -nine pnlfui:- T have worked OrMaipitoui Rock, about JO mites Wtl of
Booth bay Harbor, Maine. 1 hey hnvo to put
up wilh a lot nf ifolL> Ihui sii On the rocks,
hungry fur I i.iby puifm- \ne1 -u the pul bn
i mrents, al^ntil to bring home a bill full of fish,
tin Le the island in a c pattern lik* adr-
Htu'fr fsS.n ked over New Yorks busy itiriion-
Uiul by oncp the puffins will drop out each
birr I'.v - 1
1
]n n%r down between the fnek- and
making straight for bin neat, bidden in a eraire nr in g burrow ih. l lar ground. He hurries
in nnhimSjtf the chances of ypvinjE nwa> l he
i i ait ecu i of hrs young
A hundred rmlr* .iwav* on Machiaf Null
Island, I found that ihe gulls had been rim cn
off hj a c s mipiLssiunaie light kee[M!r. fufliii^
i.mded leisurely, viich ora a fork iieuj hi^ nest
then they stood tWiv. looking about and re fl-
ing ftfter a while, srdl wit hem [ tote* they
mure tied down to their hornet,
On Miichias Seal Iiianri t pliomgmphed
puffin Eu -tnsw how nnlly hi hud arranged
his catch of hsh in his hill irruhi i l con Mi
f nlh <i ni l J4Vf I 4 hllUlJl IT', I P II|
ill 4 -Hill m
Packed by a pullin, Hnh
diingie in nniefiy array The im rcdiblt
hApjjfD" :ind l [in LLtrr rif is lOmniitli Lnlflilp
on M;ii'hiii> S^isl i^fT She tuiift
il M.mir record it i'hr bird, \h<*:
lr ill LiMu - law nnly 'luring couftshJp ^nd
lit—Itiui. fihbpti un+Uirwatcr in roli^di --ra^.
ijllu run rieerjli.'lj II
> feed its yomi^ Soitachtiw it tnimatw
tu keep the irutL-h citrefuEjv arrttrir^iJ.
often alLcflliitinji Ih:lljJ-. and tjdb.
lJiivv <lue> tbr puffin «Jim is ^ 1 1 kccui
lls -ernL'l Wei-
b4'j
tmv l done it frith any nf hb humeri kirn I un
M,it!rmu> Rurk
Th«-« points up it central problem ni phHo-^rap-hing wildlife in depth In addition m 1 hr
blind you Jtqed -a I;—-h-rmethrn£ ihai
y« iu fctimv Nn 1 animals will cumr hi, >o \h\<\
you don't have to l- fa 4.se titter them. On M,i
tihiftS Still T4and. ft, rock Libuve a pu Jim's ni'-r
^rved $5 ?udi 3 s^mmirk From ohscryaNosi
I knew I htiT he liked tn icst upi there., andthat'- whnl 1 it-nit-d in on h waiting for Imn
In 1 h l' ruse of 1 he liitEe luxes -ri - kify braw I-
ingem piku&q m\ stimmlck was their den
in the frozen tundra Fmcn a dun k on Cape1 hnmiison in. nnrUi weatern \] w-ka. some 1 i SO
milt> north of the Anrtk-1 ’rnrle, I had spotted
r '‘ 1
i hem with binoculars, dawn 111 a vaJJev on .ir ,1
ptk of glacial gravel. The) stHvcrj in Ehdrdenmost ui t hr time, and I in my nearby blind,
until I hi.* right emutu-rd in die bright Wtknrjihi ivhrn they came! out tu play
l^jiippiffvd Moose Hesent* Elivlrui/fion
The !1 jj lt-cm-I tiling l ever Lick Inch .uni \ ji c
versa, was a bull m®Q*e .ml an sriund in Luki
Superior* In Isle Royak National Park, Michistmlpapes t44-Sj It waft the mall iik season,
tn Ut'lobcT ,mti the park w ^ i l.^rd to Nit
Ei u hi i I Jjl- « lid ri 1 1 m n pj r Ror Stan u- y ,nm
k
me to a rieartni? near ji 1 n-rk IU- -\w\ u wiL-n
favorite >[hA Ei if 4 pair of moling momc— 11
promising fnnamkk iiLdced
TJipl big fellow rnme on rhe third dti> andvrfc- ul.imit to male with a mu when I shifted
my I ri|
ii if I. Thtrif wsL^uetimkiii^ofthe thpofJ >
leg,* Tht bitH heard ihal—-and chaTuwJ
J dashed fur u. lean to 25 feet lw.iv. i-
pl untied I iUi ki\\ he ii..i 1 farther to because
hi* sutler* wuiiMm let Siim pciss betwwabottu nr the tree*. He n^ii I n
j
I with su*';h
njiiiriL'iily let tllNl hi: hut -S '1 ltE | i^uiL L]iti lean
Eo, *u I Imd time' ? 1 1 h i1
1 ifi-ijdr. Between us
iher* w:i> only n, wire screen that covered the
Frnru oi 1 hu h'ftiwti He r rJuMm'l yi\ me bu
cptfi tin- siunlmhi W35 reJk^ledbytfcgTititiriiaE,
Bat he * mi If I ’inielj mr-, and so he stood out
tticR'. Rrimtiiigu and tossing hi* head.
I didn't make u soundWhile jorkeviiti^ far a Epjok at me in the
bran trip be scratched his shoulders on the
U4 1
- V mi thy Hi-' wrrn hack m bis con
1.1‘HliAIWr. Hll ll JUil Ii Jit1 “.
I l>.*3 -I H - •
When both were cone, Rci) ami I measuredthe height (mm the prnund to the eaves h
w+ - s feel 2 inches .nut Rm said tJu immsen i ij s| have weighed about l^hiXJ pritiftds A I
neiutoilM^r him. lie was twice that MrVi i la don't care w|mt .nil > l> in u-i <l pic -
Hire Spiifi Mr \nhuT \ Mlirm when I h td
him Iiboat this He wa* the hr-1 pm^ssnt nl
iimiihulfi^ in the Untied Sln-e* Hi hurl die
wtdiMt experience fa ob^ervmc bird lii luvinr
in the held nf »ny-« I i'Wf knew, and I auks
[ ir t vilefn: 1 1 tn ltF:am from him I-'nr *£yr.si yt ;tr>
he lei me join liiin for n mnttlh each summerIn Ithaca* New York, where fie hud c^iablbL-
the fairiDLis Cm-rjeU l iutvefsitj
of t Jrni1huluir>
In winter Of. Atleti and In- wife Elsa
w on Id vi ritn-inthf K v e : p^uefc ^ I ' he r l\ v s1
Wafilwd sii .lEiSnn^'i lidumc. he ^uvl 1 nn one
oe iny most mcnujriibJr ie^-ihi -
Unlike ducks h anhinp;as have im ml tn tlnur
feathers, and so they must dry out frequmil 1-
—m Jiiy exjirrieni Cp every I; minutes nr so
leji they bemme water Inuned This ahhlti^a
kepi eofning Si ark lu the \aifce tth' k to dry
She J lj.i
.
1 iu4 gbrw off .LL-;un when ii Lwo-tnoc
li.mj£ soft shelled turtle lunibe:rerl i:n mi liu
roek T he tltd I t «etmed m doz e the re i n t he sun
Doc said. ‘Tbepe'Ji be troubk when she
|Jt= Alim WTTrff "A-i pmirlkf^r U^wli., {Mf|f-ity
r
«, F.n i fill tr Ne^i Kill- s»ni lii.in m pic \ 1 1 > lA-.VI
UlxiCMnflU fel A|i3il i'Ji.r.
Whoops, my ! Tn a [ttr <-
nuptui] dmicc^-a mr oi spring-
n nuilr whoopiiiK i r.jOr juni|is if
in . the ei bows jji»J pintitiettc^ tefore
Ins m&tr4 Ibft «Tni off^pum;
Barents intent nn sr.irtiRiiif rwv. fiimiTie
cfcasr hway (he voanc writs, wjm jum
niher whwpers inr l foe joumty
nonh— .t 2,5fX>-mik ftoni I fir
Aransjis Kjxiu-fiaJ Wildlife to
Tetii* i li ihrir ni'-^Tif: in
Uiiiiadiij W!mt HiLlfaif.i 3,iirk
For revert months ilurnie 5 fj,
Mr Tm>Jow .lmI nmuiaJisj Kobed
Ponw Vilen hin.intni die Terns rrfuvp.
E'nasirnfjHl b> ruin in ttnhr cfl'ort* u<
photogrApb lIt last colony nf whm?p-
in^ r rants on tJirih Finally . i c dawncm April 7. ^kie^ rlejireil 5Tr Trusluw
t'nlerfc'il hi* liftnd unrl iLilI i reason''
woh in three hour?
651
I r.i.’iu livirilir M U |u lim tuim mljihlj gj iuihiui kJiiLi-iHic num
a r i .vi*?-: rmuMFtiON In wrthieimDM Mr rrtibLuw -fiitfi u fiinnJ? of red fovti-
—
e lli Li !, r_
* ' if - .1 lif r tinrl till it cull---—living in ii ifcrr «>f t'3-u.-niuJ *1 ^e'I iljt u MhnL litiirbv, lni(
if WiV-tvI ru'S'i^-aj-v," hr tH'-mTK,''vlfj^e Ih-fc-nr aIUjtlLiI
+
rfltlam idfctr hfcosijLBfr MJltj IkuJ IHLk f-ejf
ul' mt-
"
The- ir-iili A, -"tniumi i- <il iueLYrc [iljty ! Ii ill t mli in ! mrimfnS of mulhdy ^liaftRk
Fftit uf i In? fc'iifc— tiMili t rujiv j.ivey. ii nskit |*luLSe of lilt rtHl 1m —dlcuruvrr «i plcrr of
*il4 . jiitmu hiili- am! -ItaiFl n lUtf tif IVJir lm|i |dVi, l In* pm if tkiir- min 41 bt^Jntf
teilUeIi m. enter Irjii H rotlfciiK i:\met ttrxl ftbovvi w\W\ I hr winner iifi P tlur IftMT flown
I t - lii n.- hurl tUi! Irli'Sllril -"lintfSh 1 ? 'frk- >u|! it- mushcr,. altf a ittm- Ira*, w|hi
uh e-. wimftm With JPinkr kk j .iIhuh ihr tact .raid cuts ilntcr Wi
6SS
Vying for a male. f. n>.o. du,riuiEteil flicker*- vqujrc nil mi i
jjitit -tump Hselowj. tm u iraciinl kit
Pioiif Mr TrudowS \ MHrlo bmnr tiuaal
1
1
little epjtl wh?u iIig winner Flic- En
hr Tree nflicr tntrMfd >pyy.M.-. wins
wotfo on the oral I renter L tu&tirtjs irhi|i^
cWw hi~ Hiii'iukler Tin- l^r lollow*.
(ii'i rint dow n from hehiml the punk
'Pie victor inti- fefniilr anil lin tmtalodiiwiE
*wmu iii i mce ipLeiid _;.i]itt'aiI ,i\\- m
courtship ritiinl i far rudiM JMfar nuitmv,
the I -rule it’is .iHi lei imiu nvinji,
I he rnfji[—luving 1 3 ic jjmEsiri to his In iin'
lUihiNL'.iL irr\K Keep t'nnjsi i| nri E I ur
lk ' He enlist thf?- a pre^ruiTiT situation
Sure enoush, the alibiing\m mn*ti up and
found heifsrlf fauna the turtle1
^ loti Quickls li^hlnin^jbt shot ber bill hctejs* the tuji «ft
i be MLTit«\ ^rtuffht at the b:.n k uf hi? head In
that fraction of u second the turtle I Lint towi-r-L^I hi- he-nd > tightly nod so rhe nnhm^i-trikr iti|s^E[ The turtle si:f alibied down in
!n the water, hoi h p^irjteisf; lid .after a whlht-Jiv linhinKa was b ku k. one r mnfc dryly a uut
on her rock in trace.
Thanks to Ik*:* farsight, 3 Lind ll picture
M-iit.18- lo sluiw what had hiipj lei-B-rl VmJ I h,i>!
drabicilk |ifiK:il ilhkk m wildlife |ihntc3pnTth>
the mti.iiiiTCina uf pregnant otuantin- l< one
rif the ttcitV, 4 if success:
1 Inrr during a vlsie to LIih; All on in Ithaca.
Ltn tnir.sprrl td opportunity arose tri kitmHinurthiJifE about ttnman Ik-havinr
654
Wt spotted * rciThLMitLHl Witodpvckq^Snesl in a maple right nlnnuside a gotf rourw.T iitfiTcri a chan ft- Ir^j- hi on- guud bird be-
Iwior photu^rapfay, at Dm - -up thivid, aItm- field mm tn bis own right, helped im:
build :i 16-fool tower ii! tw'iidji.-i wuh.^ jtijt.yi
IS feel from lhr hv-L Ltntl 1 pul my 1dim I upi here The setup lonkfil irirul
, mtKjit thrt the
tnaple and nr} lower sfcood m a clump of
that *UH'k mil tnln fairway . nitc I she
iteJU day was ihe Fourth of July
The jitjli' course n^ ci^itUd. A l"i "t the
fillers tried to drive over tn\ little patch ui
wshuK iEid mam didn't -;urrreil ‘imll bulbhi i the trees, dropping ai rhe base of mylou it, and |Mopk come to 1i*M*b for ihrtrt^ dis-
turb in u tfie birds
\ little bo> with a Ijisw ami iiim^ am^
Sikmg ] rifii nfrt'r a hall hit my Lower I oprited
Eh» ripfier in imy h nid and asked him to rivrow
ihi j hail h-nt Lj this fairway. Instead Ik? picked it
up and walked off with n
sj ffljiji camt altL-r tils h-A\ Hs Luukrd
.on I Lodged, and I yut impatient I said,1
Mis-
ter, you'll never find your bull here"
M\* never looked up. he just Mild. “Whynot?
1'T said t "A boy picked if up and wtni up*
the hiu with nr
'
J i«‘ nun i ru’d something to
: 1 1 1 1 1 ! a li i I i hei i hpllered to hi.^ partner,"0cy
,
a little boy yi u my bail !" The ot herman culln l
liftrk In -.all v liashehcl How did he know?I hi:- wjtf no way to get out of a penalty stroke’
The first man sakl, "A voice sil the tree
told nu t omr Lmcii *" Hi* j'mjmict ran owr I
-aid h uidiy, ‘I told you boy h >ok it
;nnvv will
you get out iif herr'i^Thf and hulu didtn^t
look up either, but he was convinced
Soup a Jody came luokinc for hr* bull 3
-|j|#^whrtspered "Lady. lhi& ploce is fid I of
peusop i VkIH
She lumped and ran.
FliiaJh a mim can it ls.es d found his ball, in
& position ihiu made r. illfFumlt to piny the
ni-^1 stroke. Without his partner's seeing him.
In- rmurhH down lo movi- it (o Li better spni
E gave a loud screech He bounded .uvay.
abruptly lumcd honest
^1 u.1
Li-H in nn u npl&ykblt lie/' he told his
panner "Til 'ike a penalty ^ixokerr
That whole dir- the little hoy was Mu- t-riii-
nii l1 to look up. Everybody rUe accepted me
blindly, a?, the duihoritojtive voice in I be tree
Catchmg .
l
Skimmer in \ht- A c:
l
Doc Allen was an optimal who wouldn't
Uiki no for an answer I Et- I'idi, Biker Shi-rlatk
Hrihsu-v that 1 1 e i l can -olvu any ptukL1 pi-r-cd
by a rubjcct's betmvfor if up U ijb&rvanl
ini L Jiigpiitous t-mmuli One recent winter,
when he was no longer around to meet us in
I he Everglades, 1 w rim lrn.nl what he would
fiSi
have said about the problem oi tin 1 black
skimmer
Thai bird it about eighteen inches inn^,
with a threivfiml winpspan unit t:utn.iE> hill
—thr U*W' i r mandible is much lonirer tkaji
the He fishes in flight—Optus trfi bill
wide, clicks the hirttf lower mandible straiahi
down 1 n r 11 ii fjond 1
and skim- ailing -wiflly.
plowing the water Small lish rome up m lu-
wikc, attracted by i h l- distil rtwice tftcr ji
hundred yard*- t«r ^n, the skimmer makf> a
U turn and plow.- richl I:uji k. When his im-
mersed bvtfer mandible sir ike- a fi^h, the
^hort ej f i|it-
1 mandible r! limps down,, m Era[i
it The problem was* bn* could I locus r>n
him, flashing p&al so fast?
Let me point out here how precisely youmust focus pel a ?hitrp picture. Givfcft ihe
properties of color film and ol l he natural
Li-I'i :i v i r I
.
l
1
1 1
l
r. n 'll .ln, -[ : « :
i
l- lerv—onceyou have ii I Mi-Led H—can utch with true
sitorpries- onh those thint- that hapjit'n [be, say, beiweeti 25 and Jh feet away Ertim
your view finder The,^ 1 1* inches are called
your depth n| field Whatever s- even an mthch*s*r to you than thp]
, r-r fte-I an inch farther
mnIV. h Jlltcatiy Unmeurbnl mil lijetti.
You ran shift focus, of course, by tv • .n !-
justing the lens with n tiny 1 wist Hut if your
subject tni i
v
re ^ rapidly there won't be time
for that—which it why yuu want to be pre-
fijctisKi on el sprit where yon know h? will be.
Hut how iDtihl ! i i'll iu-.i where in I he water
my .skimmer would I" ikimftistlg?
This puzzle, moreover jrre-niEerl a [H-i'uliar
aspect to deepen the dilamm *
Her,him. ihe ikimmer -hmus- iilortg only -±
few inches above the surface, hi_s wings can't
make jl fuQ 3 ?ca I He can - u l! > i aue kc h ; 1 1 1-
1 1 1 ats,
from iht vertical dow n to the horizontal and
fConti on p**#? 662)
Spoon-fed spoonbills nkK ,.
rl] nm-r ri 3 r * n t\v .lituj r The irrnw \ nz
>niirj^it'f: r.m ' wail for the
meil Here, as fellow ajcMimps bc*K
with bfllihlnf heads a vouhje
k{rink
irTvairhc^ into its nether's
I hrma Eo ktd nn rtfiur^raliilpi| food,
I pulling hrr gLjlAr pouch with
Util The actualI f amt M the
po|Hiltttn spormhitl rtpitkery an th*
VlltgluilE kbnrl-, Th's;-^
fj 56
Qyn^ m F* jWn1 HIP Sr
r
1HnMUs
nT ML
1 i|J| ijr aFT J
H
i*Blu jaMf T^Ki
lkV|JLi%
**»_ \
™;|ff“wTfc. * H- ~
"# J®F 1
Ik Hk] ^^P^3fr^u J
<N#ui ijVi. Ipnftll 11 i ruebn ^ nAiiuhii NH’imt
Family burdens Ini I lie latent- ii nv
mcii h* t T riu.ll V flytul ti In : l rwl i in hv«' Ly
vhr (no to mVcf eVetyr»(w Wirh Jujr tVatfvcrv
lii 11 bf'r lulf-urnwis rbirk- ftftk rsut un
ev^r>' shir Hit &iul kr^t, who jiuri
^nl .1 tiJUVfJoitt, iwl- uff In «-Jri!|-i, hut rhirt:
ftdirt* keel* iniHU hr widf rhirjrip^ rcmEtailtfy.
The fnmlls nest* in IttatiiL, SftW Vurk.
where Mr TfuudoVp uhetl in ii muftUi
^Jid.1 summer With Coflltfl- Pr Arthur
\ Alien, rf wlnnr. Mr I nj^lnu writes^
H ThrnujEh hi’ unique -Still and
be Riu.m;liL me rtin^ about bird ^bavinr
limn an> other mah "
Bounty of beauty tirrLiri^llktrhc-k
i hi- mull1 I'Ltmli-il hunt mi- i<ne <»[ du- iiumI
. r||prFilJ hijfih Eii the Unitied ^Uliev^ AIIOtHtr
n.imr i *1 htr
'
without
rqiJiil" Thh Mrd >gJ9(tftir«l • ii tftlHrhjVi.
I l“ecJl-j ii Mr Tniikiw % Florida hnmr
'Evtjfy wild i wttLure tat* a |rf>iEii-!'
lie ' tL-iii IhmI I*j irrHUi! rd .n 'tiMfiH ih.il
lie dl^turb|pK Al thf| r'ir- 5 -iun
id ntrVinisnt^v in a null \n u l uJhvjiy- ^ui|»
itlld Iru 4s£i-Uii birr Hut ru-aci tEmc I am even
mi in- iiUL'l'ijI fflT Lhe Hlftl hasn't ftiffmtfiPN
[[nil mher f tri cua filler Om r vi;mj amUm tear
in a wiki treaUire, ymi rruiy u Will quit
"
660
Feathered warrior, i t^muiI’lZTrl (itfend!) her ttrrttrtn- im j, ^r»n !1
nlfrPwe oi lln Texas,
refuse. vvhure bird tmiTir ss l.i iV} and
Eirstilltf dear. A I .nuUi.in i licitm,
out of tile picture. landed on Mi-- l^FcTs
k-mlort anrl trE^^cred .1 rit ujiI djfcfenii?
EtTlI. Ihim lI bfhtiiriL: it Jimi-J-ii n,ir
(lower lefti. and ftnallv n i . - Rdn^qic
chArvc with hern I down -Mid i^itLfts
outspread IMtlW nirhfcL
• Vchi rimh full when the bird will *txn
.Ulurkin^ Mr Trusliiu puilib >at|lls 1 Eu
lil lion i^rir- mi fait that a- won as. ber
2 lend start* M I Sin ih*t buhun"
H EtaH ha* an uiicatmy ucnae of timjriiT'
lava orml h i tl 1 1; i M-t Ko^cr Tor- t 'e tfrrsrFFi
sin farther, lust lu^ wot uu Into Mn- wattr
Viul so. to kffp up speed, He h.t'- in Hap hb-
wings faster ihan he would if he were up
hinhtr in iltc air.
Now Tinte who; tin- cxlra-ftuL muvemwifritting :•= thi-
j
Ji"! . iu:r^i iht-r To avoir! having
|ii wing- .Lpjji'Lir hi Lbr piciurd ^ just ;j
bln: one must Lb< n filter shutter ^praci
I 1 1 iss ley- Ujehl will rnme in through the ?huL
n Lr, 10 o>ni pen suite. the diaphragm of the lens
must he opened wider But, for turfrcfipable
nfitunl mtsrm.-. :e~ you npi-n our Im^ wider,
your depth nt field decreases*. To Mam si aJI
up—instead of having .1 iw-inut depth of
slustproe^ ^vadaijlt Td hove three inches'
The key to die solution wa” ii fcrti
I shrew the- leaf into the water near tht1
shnrr when* tht -kimmiT had been jitting
hack and forth. 1 focused on the leaf know
inn ttial if he pasn d immediate^ t«e*i to H,
Ir
d have him mi focus too. Now the challenge
was to get him into my view Under while he
was ‘rfill a C^sidenibk distance From the
leaf Ln keep him in the view finder hy
inii cztfnrrn to kiwp u |i with hi- flight.; andthfcn> when I could see lip the view finder both
tin.* skimmer ami r.hc tvaf, shoo IT
Mjrk\njdn < Fftivtr Helpful
S. T ml her, shuol rf he seemed In He in lint:
wiih die Ival—in die Siime plane with it, *q
m - 1 u\ik. J Htjer wise ivmt for another piL>?
VVhat was neededm ft quick eye, and sim-
inEi timinjCr tuning*
For It years I had taken part in firearms
GOttipelitlfiTii,winding Up ;i> \i leant member
.mi! I'oftch in intenutioiua pisiol matches
My eye was still Fairly pood A Her two i 1 .lv-
IIMTHTlWwP F' 'I ifiUCHillBI >1 lUBIILl HM W| | *+ C * *
ami some 150 skimmer paws 1 hud eight
saltsfu 1 1 u ry - 1 i des T be best ot Ih esc—t he
payoff of the gimmick nf i \w Ecal— ls reprn
1 1 l i i l d on l hr cm cLr iind Pi = t Tfyijti look
Em lilt- Ituif in (hid picture %tui W^tCl tinil jl-
in the fifilit wpimI that paSSftd between myi i l* r_
a
1
1
1 a n ^ inj
n ess the nk^ijc baton and the
ubsec|UL-nl opening of the hutier, r lie -kms-
it’.it—
-
i ? i I my U" ri> todaitiE him bud left I he
leal top far hr hind lor it In appear
fr my irate Uf <-ihu I hr knf WB* all M*ppiflble gWtoJck because the skimmer dynedose to It withrjuL being coerced. Such ;i
jphUfflkk. is ;:i nniuriil thing: a favoriie perch
or feeding ptpee of .i kiltl, yarding pltirr in
l ilt1 c\;HC flf a (tefi fl | n mii ta the ^ List- of alli-
iMliif-— whatever ^iMtutinn a wild .mim.iE
will Liii' to niitijTiillv. of its iwn volition Ihit-
tiriL! a Wild animal into an etx leisure won Ed
tar fttt unmmjraJ gimmick.
I ndet siiTiu: rirrumstirnce-s,, s;i_\ when your
unhid is itj'r ij’-h ajid you can't poiijhl\
get s4tiafMftfizy re nits in the ocean, it is per-
fect i>' legitimate In pul rhi m m i l;tbk. pro-
\ ii|n| yiiu tell your aurlierue that iricse fish
are c ,lpk i vc ce rt it inly, r hm i gh
. ]ntt 1
1
rr& rn in Si
it: I lii-r WU'. Will r i »! fr"ptfc?,enl the trie bftfhiiV-
Juf of a wild animal
Often one can pick nut a cnnttiVcrl nr
liu manly controlled piclure rif*ht pi the bai,
. 1 11
1
1
1v because the subjects behavior isn't
natural Say you see pbtdo.nruph ofufatcon
nr m 'hawk fjcffc-liiog right lip a back*
emunti ill dense foliage V< m .lii hi pretty
njrtMn that this bird is cirlu-r I rapped
• it drugged or stuffmL m dse a pet Why?Bet .LUfti no headhy wild fak on would volun
tartly gel himself into such a predict*— Inr
Kg rets battl C citw fi-shipR HjeMjs.
]n the EwrgKuh^ stimi fth L- prim.
nb'.'R clcsimhk: I Hu ll other:—at It'.ul Iti
llie.ie ccimm-nn cgRi.s which hvir
Lfrtjsin oni1
^ a- iirimf iVrr ti>hihR.
Thi* has^k" aTojil wLieti tf«n:t ciumhei
\\ne. luwrf r wa? dccopyins’ u rotk
w jutted by reiet numbi'r two t iinrgoiK,
the negrtssinr cbnhetl dir othn kid I ntii
I he Ltir flic attac ker piiihmdH- With
hh. iVct, thi1 defeftdrr cooaleipufjcheii
With ius. -hill Alrhuuah tile plioLnirrapJicr
wn.4 bnsj ncorctknt L h.i»- hpEit^ensntl
action, hr -Till imtrd who won— Lite
bird no Uw left
665
Irl^-DHT*# fJinin^RB 1!TT,^ I^Hinhfp N-PW>WTVTI t h C £.
Riding air currents an wlnp rh>is r^ton . ihn-rp^a itTi
fees i hr L^ntintflE'i [.1x31^1 hard drclev almtr m.-
^esjje Cciidnr Sanciujiry of the Los Padre* Natkinai K^n^i
labnve) fn rnr?> tui other * nlifnmin ''nnrtDft
w. ,111 in r Bhi- fpinniojs *mi before taJdn#* nil irrchu. Idle *iiu» ,.&i
liHs frtiili kfiep’i up ll.H parkalikc mfF rif raiMii
ii pnrfvii |±ji haJd heiid gainst lln l nLrJ ul ni^Kl
The Se^rc present ntiv of iln jrr.it binb -
Lhf ]a.Ti remnant i t thr sp*eiff+ Ofw cmtributjbli fsdqr
lb thie birds' biLctasin r: r.inty: A m^Tine pair ptodtice1 1 <mi«ne raj? ev u r>= two year.- and. d at hfite bu*, the afTsiwiri^
teEfiiiias in the ruM For 1-fi immlh- Ea-dh Frightfnutv | 'Sirs’ lit
Lii til' h*ve been known to abandon. ^pir* .jjiiJ ti F-^t 1 cn I-:-
Mfr ‘ftuSloW, unr of a Flinty te;i:m on a Nulkinnl
i t EQflTpipJfif Wrl y-^partSorttl tody of tlif- birds* ncVef
worked wit bin. a mile of a nchl ,uicl wsa Careful Lu avoid
any chflflOt of lEslufbLti^ hrAM)iD^ palte lie dnRflrvfcfed
tin.- dciid pmc If *r«- u,ilh fresh dropping. however and -#i
up a. fiJ_uir-aod-n-N..L1
J iveek wa.ii-h., hiding in a holt dug Into u
nearby njotmtainsEde This exli^dmjin color piL’lurc
Oi Kci» of t.beie r.Jte birch- oil ?ru ard Wi- shot from 5 Li feet
away ^(kiri Aftiiwjiti]. the hnvi bird* book«»dI
on I ft* I banned U jlTLS- they need lo Liain altitude
Vi-I
. . J
Mother owl attacks!
ra-L- it, tv“i
i'hb
H®-! T-I *1 H |T 1- mm PA i
A M - r ,i f mi ret! mvl fftfeiiy cl nj*
k.ri‘|ijnq i HI the JpHlttj I irfoiV on EvrrRbilr-
hr? i'Jiver Mr I fiulow pill up a h]\nt]
ficitrh> St5-rni Uir brood inv mother net'Eiirrt
1 :irccjii him, IrtThu: him pal lai_-r hvs\A grtf
chrek ilij- (?^gs- When a ruiruitorfii tiirtiiiriiEd
I ciriiw n E hi L w>i . hi. k •I Inti had tin r.t f jci
L
fefii Use moibrr cyt-D *1 town I tfrr photon
rii|jln*f m we i hnm Tn banister
pftH, lie i L-luttici i I hem In dn nfM
'Hki! the ncJtt day, fur inmr nr-ji^in, *bi
rhn.n|CH) ri 'Uipk-Ltrh iintj ^woojMnl pi inr,
r ikm p he r daw m: rjhs my u.b 1 1
1'
' Un uh
rpvGnnp hi- bend with un Ldurntnuiii | mis.
—
kc|K handy gainst the chance lh.ii line m.di
hard wuiilrL -4rik4—hr - iilfured in second MUaL'k
•wH. knee hutklia^ went down :ahnv^] He
Jell beneath li Lurrl Jhuik hyn^ b.v the fire
w mien m i vain htJfw thai Lhit siwl ramih
mijdnT move l ii, gut ijf re li 1 7i oi jiri'fl LLtc»n^-.
Businessman in the Bush
WisnS> U) hr up hiiifci, or ai Herat Way mil,
where he can see aJI urolind In mi
On the other hand, I believe tfjai there is
TsQ*liti’ i: wrung with giving a bird .l helping
hoAilrIf such help wfl! in tiri wav cha-Ugv hi-
naturu I IwrtiEitfkir >ucb an effort onre mademj hi hnvbr l> iok exceedingly odd to l num-
ber nf people
FiEL-ki-r I'nets .1 himti-b PiiiiSdern
I sought i" n- i
k
l- life easier for my -cl* arid
for n (trunk flicker* one 1 hod -.* t* 1 1 fighting
i in* «r her r umale vt? r ;i mu !l- (
\
jam- * 5 4 - ^ i Be -
Fure the mating xhn mide was busily pecking
on! a nest in the stump >u' u dead sktsh pi ReAs soon as they had mated + he quit working.
;uid Siiir had h) riu the juti by her-ielt
She luni a jn^ 'il pari nl the work done wlirn
-Fie ran into -i hard knot. I ecu Id tell by the
(UltiTtiru s' in the noise, anti I ulw dial ihe
was making practically m progress*. 1 wanted
her to timshed quickly because 3 WPU It]
hjvf to leave in it fL-wdny* and bud my heart
set Mti ^oejii nuiting im/turej So I thought
lhal ill tut si Lit slopped peCkii.;: Hi dusk. I
wou ld get a. hammer and chisel and cot the
knui out for her,
I am\t hack in the dark ami -kcrtetJ In
hh?
wdrit ihi-el in my left baud, hammer in myr:ghi, jLhd a flashlight held in my mouth
—
aimed at the mrA hole, which w;v- (act-high
Twenty-five feet from the tree stump wiu> a
road—om- n-f \ lie main Inli-rscc tkms, in facL
near Horn extend, Florida and peopk
stopped their cars hi w-lml I w n- dampTraffic hacked up and a jjoltce car drew up
m-ac me An officer sot out. walked over, and-ti iod with his hands run JiU4 blp^ .'laring,
I couldn't think of anything id say, so I
kept un chiseling, with. Ihe Hicshlinhi h in 1,
muuth The officer turned and [ heard him
tidl his partner ns the j.uiitrol cat, “This any
is irnt&> as a Meriting But harmless. I ltiecss
Let's act out o 1 hr-nc'
With the k 1 11
1
1 h m aui+ the flicker finidirrt
her home the iiesl day, .mil 1 in u nu twtinp.
pitlare> withmil rniluu 11
1 in Lhe hoosegow
E he main point in my code tfl el hies is dun
the welfare ol me subject must nw 6r*L
nnd get line ijir picture M3M& What if, for
Simple, 3 would have n> seiiouily disturb J
bsrdE
^ nentiru: n>udtie iti ardei t" get the pic
hirer E faced such a situation in Red Ko^ k
Lakes Xaitnnal Wildlife liefuge, Mimiaiia.
where 1 had gone Tu photograph Tnunpetcr
swans. Lhe worlds laravsL wHiertdwk They
Hafer headgear pfntt-i::s Mr frustow while -mis tig up LigJiLf aniuiuJ ihe nesl lo «rt Inc i nrrei L
eipa^iiri!. heu?es a m^tal lapctn«dclcfitiine the exact distance fmnt i he ttghE.h i^the B 4-day -v Id owlets
ire WMipitt the extreme. I iippnrwuhed Severn]
incubating pair- ll- ijj*"!LLih iv- t could. hut
ilsrv AuLjhsn'i lolenit? tti ^ blind* evert at ,
hsLam c «?1 lSOlnfiL Hm\ tie u nil jind staved
away If they didn't came back, three
w^ilW I iv tool \ rid jcri I poekd up my blind
I hit 1 noticed several muskrat brume* Pek-ing out of themurslic^ Seen from the outside,
l hey are simply bulky piles of with the
help oi the refuge biologist* Dr Charles Han-sen, J piled enough sedge nn m> bli nd to miaitc
h lniik likt- a muskrat hi iu:-e H> moving thh
contraption gnidiullv, jrul only while the
swan* W4TE' away on feeding trip.4* [ was j.ble
to CQTiic within #0 J’ert. of a nest without
.irtuiimn fear.
Ol ruurca? I hud to per. in at about 4. ip ,i rrt
and .>Uiy in until kit afternoon* sitting Up t"
tnv waist in icy wukr ()rurT after i | hunts of
fliis, 1 t jurud temporarily psraK mlfrom the woi.^t down. I had to coil ChuckHansen on my waikkudkit and him to
jin 1 1 nii. 1 nut Hut 1 was happy with tin- results
People 43^k me why 1 put up with this -inrl
df 1fk&Ajgi Or willi mu^iuiii'r- m ihick I hat m '-
difficult to breathe without sucking sottin in.
Or climbing down lo a blind on the sheer
lace of a cliff in the black of predawn. AndHu ring thousands of hours in the blunl
without rooty rncmgh in s.smt up—-dnesn't
one get bored* just sitting Lherr hour after
hour, when nr.iiMnpr k goina on"I thrnk, tirsL that the dbaUengi; m-iktfs up
lo: llic dhcomran and danger That -joes fur
the song smd garden birds* or dir key birds, as
I cull them, as well as for the big jirnblurs
unci wadlpg bp i is
With the more wary predators,, 'JO pcrritm
‘‘k'Cimn of the Tmmpctw.’1 by LmLnrirk IbraU Thiskra NaL HIN^L, trl I‘.| ;».^FIT[[
,Jlll> PlM
Loving Cill C Hu rtu r^- n ' djiy-o hi
bam'd owki , whose mntfaer fields Lt
with hmiy and win#* She feeds u u mur^l
of ,i mi d>jregrmjndi with tail ^iibk ar
nqhn brought In 1m male Fur tic
first two week- -inn hei habit' hatched,*
Fhc mrrh kti ihcm ] hi- 1- veniUnleri
rani her nested nn ihe pround—a.
pTiiitict n «* \tr be-feirt reported m a
Ininr! ol' many l^r- and reared four net-
"i yi^Eimt despite Hit present e <if ractourt^
w i Infill ?. and alligaPiTA
^ ii'im^n nr ii rpiiiKT «inr rnamH1 -
J dJTpobl i rr -iJJJJIIjyJlV-liJ
hi the challenge tie* so figuring nut ji setup The action wil I
1 1[ relatively infriojuent hnaii^r iht-y feed ihdr ypmwi wily
three or four limes Lfi an l.tdiuur day But when ;n don
came*,. tt*$ sudden r mid you must react Immediately Youmust be lik'H all the 1 1m r . but noi tense; if you art ten^e ;ill
the time. you W'vlut ycmrsdi out
Wsth the dkkry birds thr setup Urti illy is mi fumblem.
you rat up your blind and right til work But sin
action as foster and almost rfltifitHtil, because they feed thdrynlifiy tiwry few minutes. at) day Iikiel
\lviiyji New tit Nulurt s Dratmi
Kven « luffing thr lung waiU between predainr feeding.-
,
1 am never baled. Wliite keeping tin thye on Lin exit's neid,
say, Hi see a ipamtw h.ivrt divlti# diiwii urt a field mou^cr'l/H-l i n mi 1 hr i\iglo> ml'-I. Or a hum bed feet away lul
dspfty* uirtyiite q fish,. misses another iKpm’s territory
tmri is c hti^ed SpHtMhg b always goin g mi
Em Ox Nrnr En time t hern- are sl|TJifU4f--i W Fieri \ was wart-
ime whiHiperr- in the Aran^ Nat valid IV ililliii' Ruttige in
Turns n feuf-and-fl-kdhfoot water moccasin tame into
my liliud. T jiiipporic the cotlumnijiuLh wank'd in stel uuf of
the ternrk tern Bui wlsai was hr itnitijs here on high ground
ncitrly 4m yards from Araftsas Bay and the Gulf of Mesh -
L wnre ^rimkrr? and Find M protser^Pll on my leg* I go*
my feel op on ms cnmj'PSPtoJ sod whited He s oiled up fei-
nUffly and showed flo i nclimn Ion to leave. l/irudh 1 picked
up the Liipud aruL very slowly, nudged him out- Since then
my ciiTppmrni box. m which 1 ako keep chewing gum so
that I w can't qi>u(dh at she v* ion g Tune, always ronlalh* a 22-
tali Fur pistol when I ftni in ifinkr iruuntry
Oner in th e E vent Fade- I found t hat el pair of pi lotted
wood peckers hud pecked out si ncSL about Ifl feel up. iniidt?
a dead tree-—
a
30-foot plm* One afternoon rfne female *at
inside, on her and I 5ifi outside, in m> blind itfup a
li-foQl lower I harl hlilit Without warning, the whole top
id she old | line Fimku oft ail the nc^Limi hole B cm* hud B> the
ground, feiwtnp the arf-l roofless Aud thru I could hardly
I ml Lev e rm ryes. Thr female tuok an v\sx in her hill (piiEt?
U42
)
and flew all with u Sbe rcturitciL and caffbd UWUy a
second Then n third
’Mr Tnnliivr'i twnpkte *urrf-and- ni‘-tu.n: "Wlirh
liirqrk a WowIn^rGr'i in Ihf DcHirtiwr TvA-
noN^ CM-UIUl.in
Alligator’s giant jaws ?hs)Wlhe Lnvfl^-ni tmnL tmu-N When pcngduif kni
u'lilur reduce (.he pfhili iupplv in rhi livejgijisit.H thtL-, U-imn mak nil. Lurttr
hii- lower lip dsowi .i cm and whuc sean Irft by t Kfir sharp -FirH^ I luge rmiiH jr -
a I clLiier Jiiite (d the jftw supply she ir™cndouf prcssiirr nreiird m i;runh l lie - feature*
tmn jiiL-rctj. ftt can iwallbw llefn Whfn p^rMping prey unikni'Bicr, hr rnci oft
hi- dam-ai wjLIi she muscular vfilvr yiablv ihs^vr Thr vpivr iiLnn vlbrales wlien lit imr
wilh Hh m% . ' nearly ?ioftnjPhe wa™lmvdy r iitw air imm his futl.v inflolied Iuelh:
producing rtvertitraimg bellnwA ihm carr>r fnrthi^r than ihoie of the liirgcrt duu^tk ! riith
67 t
"T
Nuiii jj |kjrtlmi of Lkuti hrok tin pine 7tum]>
L\ith i lie tt’ood peckers nest in il M.unl- in. &
Comet of m> 4iJtl> iu Ni'iv Ji rsey n> a >ymho|
of I he totally ipcKpated,
Perhaps I should atop keep theta iui ohi
; l
I
b i imtHJit! i Miikijiu [mt a> a reminder nn
most -stiirmloL: ttirprt^e. Thi* uum- (mm a
Ekitmt iml 1 had beta \\ u-Aitui for four non
a iitivi ‘Uii?r«n^ cus sht: h us ltd «>n I hr [cnttmd,
i gainst :l > i mi «vir -mb at the holt mu nf ;i tire
i 1 1 tt er in r 3ie Kv v r tdur]es
In the hojimninsi. if iinylnnh in u iIli-h
while &br wjii i hi die she would start
snapping- I sal l Went} feel away lit first* and
each day movat a bit ijbsatr unt.il 1 could sii
rig lit by tin- n e an
d
she w 1
1
u Idn ' r snap ThenI tried pelting Imr rm Hi-- head \l firsl she
t Li:- -t:ii I link. I 'Lit Li iv
1
1 -lie mt U-wd lu Hkil.
> r i . l I T, [ ion III tip nty finger under itrr bill
and lilt htr up and ictok at the ei®fi+ amt it
didrTt seem to bother her
f-WH) Oeed 31 in no WruiNhfcna Retfiiel
Ofle c|&\ in the fuurth v-rcir there was a
terrible sturnUeri inches "£' rain in ftairhouft
S <w a * o 1
1
lie 1 nr \vr i 1 iterfere—unlike some
I
if 1
1
1
1
iv tv hi i sec a younjr bird in the hush and
ihink it fra.-" been desertttl* they take it
home uni fry In lr<-d it Ufien ih.it "i. thr w-iir&i
Lhirm oju can do* because the mother is in
ilir nexi inrh. watting for you to eso awayBut in tbs? case the ne.sl wa> lh a shallo vv
U * sir itnd l Li tiLr i i| i wi £ h win r r 1 hc little I
H-
Ih-sv's were .tbiiul to drikW n E .i 1 j!3\ p picked
up the i wrti yniinc and pin. them in H, and i he
old qtt'l Ukp I look them inside a nearby
quonseL IulI until the -Ourru nver ;iinl
there won no mure HiUr in the ne^t Then 1
put the whole family back The mdt lu-r nrvrr
bsitLed an eye,
Tlic next day J sauntctad over toUrf lle i
ftkrtvly a]ways The mot her im 1 was perchedin .i u-«‘L about h;*ii leetottui 1 sunk a gooil
I <10k m t hf vow n jz- and w ham 1 Fh at old i k
w
a
I
Skewering a sunfish ,urh i., r
^hdtp-QE-A^dk t il El, an Kvtrpl ide>
aritllJiga ciim£-> a^tt^nr- Tr+ ' line, ^hk' will
1pI^> il in£fr|hi- -lir und ratr h il tii ailtlFtt,
n lechltique tlmE k,L'N'[i"> -ir.iJe L Lind -ih^rp
-pi hr xiftly fnldcYl bqrlc w liile - hr
Swalli-kWi. \ httblijf of .ur &>c> rtfktt'ri
ithentl nl I he fj^3v rQtivenkntll cniarpinu
her mil I el litr rkf tile nurol
( juiimin luii * a Hrmjhpurpie imUiimJt arcepb j i^'unut.
Thy nm'Elrtjir, which ou'un-ed l_ years
-ipm iTcaf thm ftc^BgiipiH iy| Trudfflv
;'i 1 1
1
Kh i l I'm [j 1
1
ir titrcrr -hnw * 1(11* r-ippcirl
hr- catablbhc* with in it n> of hi>
rkibjei Ll The rnxt hp hp*
diiy <jf EirkJ wiark in ttat Evcrol nrif.*.
Ehb &ime hint] fltw hue of the willow*,
lnnHi?H on Fii-s- dimiSrier, and liitmi^tiiitrb
’lurk 1L* hall burn hi* left ^lurf futfLid
wbeit he hod cutried the [kanuLs
Htplilv itttnimrd by experts in tfur
(flitted Stales .trid abroad,. Mr_ Truibh
exfftxmlly iri'^-urr - an fircolndi front
1
1
1 l- 1 Sfjsn i if Amenc an iirruLSsnlniritii. [ Pr
Vkjciwdtfff Wctnvife nl1 1
<. StniLhiori! !n
tnnULutimt. Salr t Dr UMmmc Ij
Fnn 1
1 mm 1 of.^rcjii CJupuac iiy and tvndrr-
stitJHhngi wFkp <t&p|>lla& hi? tajicTitncr
fnim ntht/ fid- Id- of endmvor—to |i]jin
alltad . to be in liu; rij^bt ptagr, mil
eii -r.i . ihen unlit Ire gel? out-stiiitLling
plinti^iiph^ l L'mHiifer hb woi'k,
especially with bird*, Lin
;iTniLri nK 11 rLnnph-fimcni1
Hungry hawks wait ope*muuLhrrl is :l 3 > :irt nl circles ihv\>T Ptrst
in Msi n t ;i rut with a meal nf jimuml
^luirreE "Then heads' mialb Mu*
piiiii Uiiraphei, ^swiveled back and forth
a? if wntchinp u Eeranfs match,"
fc^fili hWdf^l itMrii “iui.’i.
•• 1 v 1
» 1 iM -t'lHlI -d"% J 1 inr|ifc«
h 1 "I'm- in ihi* I ».i« !. ri: :1m- in :n I ,n..: . I r
.
l_• M
Iicr i liiw-s d! the way across, slitting my scalp
from hack m front Hhe mnk on maiir a caf-
i k-. and attain By that lime 3 had
grid ihfi] a imtkiiig fkiC that I kept handy For
jsLM sut'li .in oi:i\idon and jim it on mv hum!i nr i ih’-i i ion. Ntterlhck"?^ list- j-ecood blow
sent ttil spniwtiviflL Buddy ttisturhl Mownfrom W a-bingimi to
il ii i l m& on held trips,
\liiTitinritphed Lh.il ijvmu fiOn*
Why this switch in Mtavtor?- 1 am noi
siirv. But until rUv ui tht ftprnt thr ' iiLij.L
had never been out from under iheir mother*
A r c t' r i cjurririM them Us safety, they i&pi awny1 non the fdm of staying in 1 he nest; 1 hey wan-Mf-ri'i
I in tin- grata* and ?ht*|
lurched in ihe hue
Her ruulifie id four uror 1- >lanrimi; had been
tips# She found herself in 1
1
l uhl; ami Liar Mtu-
ntk>n ; she was ;ii! shaken up, ami so she sit-
tucked From T hut time on I ’.von 1 a hrud Euord
whenever I went near her nest I page 667)
Wild h Tc\jkUKi>, an short* ztrt in many ways
on predictable That's why it makes me sick
Id .^ee people footing wilfi sin itlliiinlor nr it
111car* or m\ 4UiiafeW whora teeth ot claws arc
potentially dangerem.-. They muy be gentle
u can be a hundred Litnc?. hut the hundred
Liml First time something different s> 3ii ibeir
minrLs and tfcevll no after \ i*• ¥ i i*
V‘- for mt. i-herv - always -komething newtq go nfler A Hock of white htirnmErigbird
hit bdetl U'j.mrlril kniii ,i rrLtli k iti the hcJUiil-
Wi'Sl \re they albinos or a irut specie-' t
hjivr not found them yet The ivory dulled
woodpecker l- wirltris believer t til be n sitin' i,
but soles drift bm k of <.up|*tfed -ia Litmgs in
FesaSr Florida, and Sooth Carolina To wild-
Tife jilurtocmphera—to me ami perhaps Lo ymsiimedn>—rhe world of nature will never ruq
out of chnilentiiLis and. rewnfiis. nitt KVO (7 *r.
ISI FS ON THE EDGE OF THE SEA
L.mit'h UltflT IhJ IU A I it. k •1
1
\ht?\i shore?, yH jhc.4 -srwrpi
nfl fMjrt^wcMnv ni otTimrf
>hdtc-T .T pf-nfj|f Whu*!- bV .’iV> bit
wiirm -i.i irl uHnniftji Hm- .-n
tfcn Isle of Lewis, ,1 fo"u
viM.i-.'i- 1 -UKI i:lmu 1ii ilii- Lr, Li3itiijn.il
Uim^c u! sicjih 1.i eh
]
ihirMi
By KENNETH MacLEISHStftiiot ^ sVsLUTj I lLLlM
i%wagrapim hv 1 H fM 1 T S A / H fi l
A
HERE HAD H KEN RAIN duringmbight Nm* i Ur i?rri|fi> [Hivcmeii!* llfhI
Ia 1 1 i J ruofi of < than irEinl rd * n t In ftc tv S %
rE&en AUit CaiLL-, roused by the djiv/n. burnt
fciteUkc in the h [tier farctiKc. wmilmijt,scare lv
shrilly ^teaming i Jf people the street;^
held n-mr. lull mil nri i
K
l- drii/ks a sdcfw swirl
i 1
1
H'ti t fty i enk re* ] 4 1 n I hn ti i . . 1
1
-
1
Collie a LYujk
r-f‘^,
111 .) 1
1
rg 1
1
fur tfci. and . cnlkrl On Oim r
E I ii \ i rides: Barra, the Ulsts. amt tj^Ls-
fl is ai ihi i lurk 'I ( >han ihnt a visitor first
tatfe* the flavor of that omtft nutprtft the
raiding Norseman niuo called ^Weibm'er-
§£14 ti i> ] LetI'
c? ih.U bt‘ fir-=t hiJir- thr *mft
ii I- of the Ulj ni h A >:eHv. ivHI-iimki ini
( in it snuavdiTO near iht- month of ^rentbod'a
6 tT 4 MU (iiep.. Uhaii i^tSu1 anchor to tthfcli the
M&uiits- ndr. and iU pkrsiure their gpiftpeA?
tii- itiiiitil.ind life.
I found a trtwnmn bnfam imI tip the ydex-
of ihv Cfayrw"' hold shouting in £*5tclb tu
i rntie ii|it;riitor Be switched to ['‘nuli-li lii
nn approach
“Is Jr \ < tii r$elf that brining Jiitir,ufnsa i*.
'
Ja: asked T t* di L him it w:.l- and asked lu>w tli<
car miglu crime iiboard ".Vh, well. well .him
hr putting l! in t h l- i aim net and swittgmp ii
uj3 nn deck At your r^k, of course But I
doubt well be keeping it safe,*
As I pond-erred Oafs ctirkxtis Intelligence fas.
yet umiwuJT that Gavti often sat, "daufar
when they mean htfael|ev£'\ a nch smell m, + Cl. Wii I.**i |— 1
1
> III BW^Pi
I a l I hj t artiidv 1
1
j l- ftHQciwmtC li pdvlfcgiH |
Ui pubjbh a new tiy lint af Anwric^Xmn i rii'lmgtkLLhM] men nf FrEiecs. XrcKihnJd
fiimirr [Jlirnnan <ii ( 'musi-ias*
,n\d niruirrof Polite Vdmi for both poetry
.
i
'n ri rllrnim.L Indeed, thb : '^ry on S-hr (Juter
1 Mtrklrt i* Mip «.H’j
i
rk nf I w-ii puM'l-* nr I hr«if ijmc mciudi;-. poetry by CUtmen.
Not ill nunribi'-rh will iigfct with liu? i ]4rr
Macl^bh's EurKlujiohA jiIhfiji monUr FTi lech
lwki^> iUiii the quality <i| life oubidt lilt
VVe.^Irm Idf-, nr wilfl Ilk' bt*t line ol ln&
IHjum {pages 6^24) Hue ilwii, tin| .ill ijs
have Lccn Jji Lbr Hebrides—or lived fur W>T£iu> Vnrl ihrjt haunt ing ptkfiist "pvjriWt
itiJtlfcreftrf ’
1 ^ \w -iiyintr [hot i‘*m\ i* fandif
fe™i to mart—ur i ii ihe csttlr, ut Its Live
di*ptrtjii£wed rfutcpr?? Ami Indifferent mWhal .Nen.se > Perhaps only tbe jhjcL feilolv
Meanwhile hi: ^uhb- Mrrve the Intii |jui
nf poeir} hy brin-ipnE the joy nf a thingui bejsuLy and nhdJLirPsjmtf mind Wit! hmjL
—TIIE ,FUnii>W
liH [I in i_r bar aft wafted up to 0* Fitim helnu
"bait h miles your itt'ih wniet." hr umnrn&nte-rl Vnu ( oukl j
tj +• ^ down and see '.v i 1-
1
I hr i-ipnk tiL- giving .4111 \mtr I irea !: I ;i -
1
'
l Hii| i-mii tnri he wa- By live time I Vf put
uwiiy slus fit-.! 4iu.I bv.it them I cm Gaelriunsh,
day and renamed tte deck, tile C&tjmtttfY wasdsdinji mat i if
1 Jluih Itart^r toward the nmss"J Mull, the nearest nf the Hcburfp:My awn f!r-i i nnsion, known m
l hr < Tin it Hebrides, (be t j mg bhiivd (fcir it is
,t tit^JaU - knit iftktpcln^ur mid—miM prop-
erly Jinrj pih-Jit ally— the Western I kr*, lay 49miles jswny fteolopp ;dlj different from .ihy-
tbinK t'Jst: an ELJin|n\ ihi-.^r blnndf orudimtei)
at lr+bi SO miflion years I'iirrr rFH'k^ are
rrlaiikl hi i hose i -I Mu- laiurtulMn Shictd of
Vi irt \ \ \ mt rU. a aO d < «mtd h live 1 1eefi scp
i iir jr e lh I
I'roats tt when thi ciitLtinrnL* ifrHtird i\Wtt
FVrtiii|is ihi nann 1 Hebrides a !
LL- tlu:Lr i x-
-lissivtly in andriu Urat>. 1e ttulv derive fromtln i Ntinsf Hqv ftrfd £y% ihe rdre nf
Mi e sea/1
ami n-rljdt|ly no islands hut tH«se
ljEj|w;irk^ a^.iirnt Elk w ild Wnh Attain a:
de.srrve I hat definition. They are ibe break'
water I the Hi.uhktmls (maps, pajw 681),
ndiiT islimd:^ rriimilL-il in layers of vnlrame
roi k, lit- rlo£? aJon^ the retail Tliese ttfr the
I-iliMfr Hviiridc^ streli !nhur from Islay iwrLh-
Wlird ED ftpltndcij Sk\i;
Two hours" j»teomhi^: aksnis Mull's toafll
brouv-dti us to Tohcnnory^ 4 trim village set
tipon ihi? ilope^ of a deep bay Another twokL.Fi li* in In lovi and level Cull whirr- a fine
new dt>i k fiertnh- ihv iftlpplpg out of twef
CilllJe, From ihti t a short ^iui Itwolward run[Hat us i a 1 I ircc, flat Ti»y i«-ut rich in iwili anil
1wd tnr the growing of ^rraiii
Then, rlear of the Inner Ifilcs, we steered
towun I Uarrn near the Long IvEani IV imuthrmsipk forty 1 1
1
n n'an mtlr^ awa>I full nd refuge from the .sra wind in a wood-
walled bar where three men in format Lind
obvinusly uuai i iistunird dress -=at in deepenjoyment nf 1 heir pale ale and cnn^enial
Citflii; - on versa HimI iiErrmra pm*e in their tei ? diet tlons I asked,
"Would you he Barm men. yourselves?”
"Indeed, we do hdottK tn ' r^ui um.^We tez reameii! rominp away home frf>m ihe
ships ' Hie I -1v s - ]
h
fkt: fti r my ti i“ ti E
wfli not ranly as fiuenl that of anyone to
whom the rijhjzur 15. native t but—perhaps for
reason thiu: M was an ll«. u ui? fi I l.n,
i4»j;iut*—miore precise aji<1 njpreynM* Than that
<Vf ma n y A 111
1
; ric an s and Knglishme n
"Dm Ikirra men to sea by choice/' I
tukftk H,of hcive they nope?'"
One poke for all 'll P ,1 cood living Bui11 dte?e were work for us. at Iiome, wnc wouldno) l.w
'
T HE HILLS OP BAFtRA loo^tl nlmid;
dark, back-Jit by the lowering sun. Off
ihe port bow, islets ro^s: r t litf-il.ink^d.
from pede^AlMi] mam I i« 1 r- - ]i
1-i n^s
min ihf harbor of Casllebny. pa^i Elic strfing^
lu'ili! of the Macneib oi Fi^irrn which, riding
tad Hding ib few -eia coif, Ni'mivd to hum!
uptm tlre Wifctri Wt doi kcdretbe -n-.; I.muhtt 1
of guli^.
I drove around 10 the home of Mr- 3 humidSinelaif, whrre I would lodge during my dayson Barra, ,utri wa.n welcomed with a high lea
tnd 1 dram ig.iin>i the hill uf ihe L'venin-
Sen Lremi Uftfru m Hun m ||» HcfincEei,^ by iMilrrl
W>Iht 1 IliIi In tai 1 N s, til > :-al < EOUiAnilC. OcEohVr J >JiS4.
'Jmkwd 1 l^ppy mee T wrutr a ntainUndcr uf the Hritrldnr U.ud.%. whoN- native Eongucblinds like '.i series uJ diucktds.
1
Independent, sociable, and courit^cuuji, the\ genera II
y
v-f 11 ut a living a- emttfr^—tetllthl? OF small a:reii|iiii—^inline -Cii >li its part-time
fidicrnim. lweed w«awsknr paihirreEs of seaweed Men of En-kgy i^kuid. like Stephen
M-i
1 Puui,(k’i. i:ri'l 1 rom -ri"U3-i- .ini :| h.i|k who rfirtpJHerofJ the -t;'i merr lih^^ed titan 1 hr I
678
' n?:tum*r . I he- eq u iv :iJ t riL of t S diHurtiptt
riocs not mark the end of ihr day mi late-in-
i mm I Barra. He re. ai the latitude fit Labrador,
-prinir twilight ran last until ten at niiihs, and1
1
l aihBummer rJ -i r k i ;- - never rend I v tdtlXS
,ii iilE Evening find* an yon t has ! tic time
1 1 ir : 1 visit! rig with anyone cLj; who \- nni Eno
hu*y in talk. It w.«.^ apprupruite, iheii, that
Rck Allan—ijniv it tngjttlalider, now 4 d-ti-
vn-tcij and mili ukilr Llamler—-hull Ed pick
these quiet hour* to take file for a tour of
t he iskmd
Barra's naked btlb have lovely tines- Agvha:- rMLinriurl i hem. ice has inumUird them \
Liik k pelt of HWjv<ropp*tl mm* andiitrf mid Leather - lothts their vencraLdr bout
eim
i paffe^ " i Along the e;u.i - lasi dbew i hn>i %
fiticrcns of clean preen water past
the snarled rock Of the hr^d lamL Along the
west d lines tike 4nmdnft> bock exqubdir
empty beuchc* ttU fag fchfe open oceanNciw, m Apo.lt tWcfcete of «or* blaflSd
yellnw in *i hi- It ever I ins I lies, :mti the- .«asi4e
J .ijdqie vve.rB con-vtclIaiifTEi*. of primroses anddairies ;Uf thick 45 thn_ui with which the skv til'
advancing tiiu-hL would ^c*en eUipse Ehimn,
New while e.a Liam,, ruddled
agitinsi fheir gray rrv ambrai d:uns
phytikaJ bemiEy, like thiu of the
ether Hebrides :lh« 1 the north wc^lerti High-
lands. if- irk fcmrl -iromi, never pretti and
>fl li S-h«a t\tti in 1 1 M^rt li £ v ol i <c.i n a mJ I ; l rid
,
V
gin.ul Icwk* . Hn:h> -ii<
I
tow* l>t i ii i "p ULtn-il rjiSCtiinitn
i Ilf | i III \* |IT- IriiTTL IJji"
.ii g ypriiiss aurtion cm tirmtsay
The tmWTS mm emus for naming
thL- JJIJUIlIL*.
OuI|I4j^e* if'Scinland* ibr 130-
mil-G-luin; i iuCiT Hebndi1
: Mu k L|i-<
natiEj L-iiiJuFeiJ mvafckm u thDU-sand
year* -n^ l«mri'huimnv Vika ns*
-ttl if. rl l hr rMiti .ind SinEelmlHifk I
wiLb 104:^1 i rlu. i»r (ktcl- I'iHiny
rrnfu eliisler ojun^ the ihufo. Iht
|y]; 3 Tiri.-' Lirirv.-E tWfl. Stmikoway.
HTPpoiri* a tKkplttatEcm hi ^HCJPi
tig l
aUTE& fo?
#""«* yS' NWiW AM*
.
3 Gotland5 frC'ti"
-
Obtm '“•* ^S’ f'C'P.l rt£HP,|
Itff.iAWOI? ^il'
rLiiiiiw
IRELAND
UNITEDkingdom
Vnrth
,Sn1
WAuFS
Jlllfc
ENGLAND
L»- »n
4 Im
V
OUTERHEBRIDESSHOW SHEEN
Ml* Hn*
...**
riiFT^tn £fcii £*rL|«
J^ui I la:y
-- Nr_i
. Jiaruth .t^otnpwajrj t-_* "-'ji ' ll^TH C^Llf-F
OF LEWIS
Hui *' ,H..ATHfr -r
*-*
Di!
PjiibdY
“Ii**- CSSr-•»''
;„ .' ,\-
^rriifE'iit j.
Wo- ;i'i LHr
mrSmrtfk -- ^t«W OV ’ ^V
at ^ll rfldullL.^ illi P
MttivJih.'jnni
* J tfWLufet j «
Gtlrti.fi
kr-M* -
N D inwaur.-j
-**1<W*
i « ••
71 .libirrr^L f“uLbU^ (
i- l| w h -fc
- t.w’hWruiil-
fi.T i * Ifim-.'ri-. ri •
•' Vf-I J
r im+w,*
firm Fw*y
Or
4.UX^Lu
P
#
Linni
Kurnev -?>-*! ^0*_ P“fT“* Sd f I'll
frlvru^
>l -ijliidj1
Svtl
flfr/ir
ffrl mil
ttJiwm
Mt
\Af‘hlik |i i
Cozr.
\firth Atumtir
Or.mrr&CUIIU.S,
3-1 k
m Tiftf
T ' kmis
n-T^anr ^’
-' -&!u-ii
fjpL- Ji-Afli I f#tt
r.i - i » in5
Wfco OF
Mltf.
fl-LAh A. .. r J-.-JA r...-»P
. .— .ii ! kb-iM-l I Ilf I hi#» -ri-o*
ft luril-Ri; ;; i ri
JPfbittf -fjWfflL-iflTt
i-Viniru’ L fW ihi j-.M-'. Uiin'4 iii.itiljr
Jl rmtiidtm ef liiirnj. Tht^ar fragile
tiea&jiy i litres n iikiM ti riif>> tiL-mundrrf
ttl fvr? yl Minn ihal liver iv\ ihLr
li-1‘1 K gf the rtfebtfess *cn
wimE \l \m\- tiling Ihr -iiitSluw
tliwriieij i rile L in Ihe dt-tj.ru r
drains |t| bcoinH J landing fid !
of STTIOOlh hi ll -iiJld
fur between Hjirru jjuf
txhfegpw Jlvr liny- twrh Week.
ri : 1 1 lr df Hit’ mapiccnrh work?- U| am itlr nNutAlooi1
,it might be tiwi'-omt’ and ovtri whelm-
ing for it cxi-tU ap-irL hatn man umj Is In-
dtffemu To himHui if Bar ra's Wil liii
_
k_s warmth. Barra?
pw iplt" 4 in ntrt They .ire of rJjMerent fypes,
short jvrtfl dark, time lall is-nd fair i
.
lt r v
-
s rut on the bloodline? of Stone Age fitters, fit
hirer Oltv ami uf the medieval Nbrst- whnna Fed ihi Hehuiif? (pop t3n L “u I* i . [Jic IMhrtflUury
,!
They have known priverry, evenhunger, yfci+ 1w all fhrir |i£tsl snn»w? and
fifc-ifiu problems they have tin1 trendy ol
people in a classic scHzifcty where no maniummands another. They e-m rUk fnendli-
ntfgi, and they do,
niey+fii .1 s^rn-iul lot^ said Reg L
~CourU-oii8,
i mr. L^fi; i lis, independent 1 n ft fan 1 t hron i1mi
tally, the/rr had ly off BuE in education anrf
uxpftddbfti thiy'rr far ahead iL mn-c urliaji
fnaitilnndvrst Thcj' admire fetaawkdKe, and
they stock it.. A man 'who plow* ihru? acres
*HnWii rH J *a Fay Wfnttf «l1_T~I ,
it. ti,itln£i- tn PC^fio'w-
xl iitJOGS^rfiTr W AririJ in Jo.
jinil k ljt-
11 s iii-ur cow- Lin tlie hill rogj have
a son In a prenl university, and have been
himself more than once around ihe world,H Tlie: have the sen^ ot humor rend ssjix
nt language that fine horn of lnielh|D^nLT Th^*
.ifi- gay people, full id ^r^nct and poetry. if thi-'
proverbial d ti r Scot eSust*, lie Isa Lowlflfld* r.
“Juii how/" and be darted iniu ft dnvewm.
.
id: like yon in meet a flnr man nf these pstrts.
Father L'aHum VIhi l.clhin"
Kit her M.s> Lilian was rohi'tiwd abnyt
Biirrpi1
^ -hnnklne p-. |
'U LuJun
MS
684
St i lum Lug n.’^en^rv tnf|i>w the j.- shi: -jiita hnmnwanj N> Stnrnottffl.*1
aiw trawling in the rfefi oben- ul the Mimlw^, ifee i-huunvl hr l imran tsliinrlv .mii!
itininlfiiruli The crew cltan their (filch t»F whilr Fi^h and: ihrniji. iJif> refute ijVerLici&riL
nttrAdiQ|t^a ^utb mi i h i? \\\\k£ In the e^irl> i 'K hi
'
r- ildfuoviay mnkiTi ymc ?si
fmutt r t xvi
till- WUrklV faflit ftjbllTfl port-, berthing a thmiMUHl VHSeli fa I^L But the
imJiL-tn [,Kipii»hi!4i ^hen risrttp-sa II lm-i InlrufEnl liiMi I u-L
.
1 E m.£n liECii hi twu wot Iff
itiHL Todn> ouihidcF^ lltc bjuiod frum Inwling m 1 hr- Mirtchfe, arul thr ] IlirhioJid!,
.1 n r| hUmrl tkveliiiqnmt Board mukr- ln.in.s to cncimvgc I'M aS men t<u tWU full tmie
ms
"Their wrfp 5 PfatX5 people here years $gFK
w h l: n people raised jukJ made most of wh.it
[hey needed M+mtj dliln'l mutter mui h then
Now ft Hue?.. mu l wf'ri1
1ip kw n, urnund a thou-
-riuifS A vTofle] 1 can live thenplv1
, und he ha-*
*cturU> -u blip .1- lie pays tiny rent Hid
hi: rmjM lirne ll few pminds coining In AU he
iHetl> i> part-time work. and now, for She
first Eimt* 3 mainland aijenry—<ht Highlands
and Island? I icveh pme nl Hoard is u\w c 1
I
i n ivirl l - udl wutrfc !' be
y' r i j n vesti ng In il> il-
iii i nuiULiimd lljjl'mi tuis rver ihjnr/r +
WfHEN THE REMAINDER of the
nominal niiibc had po^ed and monviti£ mm- bright ittid hrar/y, 3 drove
ntt fur ii look elI; the board1
' tnvestoeiii^ iti
Ihc island cconurm These were three small
fiicluru'?- -[ _j
1
1 Li :- Ii >. 1 1 In, nunnljind bn.-lmss-
men wilh t h-e board's help: one operating
svm it 1 1
1
] sMiUK I h i fi rs i p rodiccrd 5pprl ;t-
> Ii- trainre. The other two w-nuhl cnakr per-
fume and i1 Set Ironic rontrah. In Lta<h case
the 1 1 1" -
i
producl was HfpJiH ami Light to
avoid the high freight costs that threaten any
island enctrprifti
At the su'i tade-franie plant, tttohiyncrl mitn abandoned -cSioohioase, I found half it
riwn girls ivor ki on over shaping ffiuibfnre
It s womanV work here, acid only a lew
jabs," scud the fareman "It will be thr saitie
i it i hr ntber pbw <j> Hot is even twenty Uspcs
earn wage? on ihe island, that > twenty fastii
Iks ihm may noi hr taring to leave* Foe the
'JLL-Jt, ttV fishing thafi'l! be bringing in the
m* iney. I know i hat fine Harm was rid n unet
w Llh the fishing, then lust the way of ii Why?Ach, you'd best be asking an older man He !
d
mind better how it Was"
An 1
hit: Hrg Miu’IJoii&td, he rente in-
hered ihe old day* a> we ourselves might re*
member the om just passt-d He lived at
Borve, on the west eottst
Archie Beg was tending an injured lamb
which ln- d placed attune the ftun-wttrmrr]
stone > nf his cron bouse As Imp rose., she
rtitSOft for his nickname (An. hu iU% meari-
'iillle Archie"! became clear. He Jitood n -EDod
-H-fijOl-tHltt’
"How UfB vnu kerpltigr" he Linked politely,,
and lidded, ns (raetic ritual requires* ll turn
mt ni nn Lhc weather "I dn not like Hus dry
east wind- It brings dirt Tnun the mmiil.Lnd
and i? unhenllh> \\\: .trt niadi- hi five in
moa^ture atul do not rnrr for Hie cold, brisdil
duy.1
Then he ushered rue into lib kitiht'jL
wuthotil m\ nEtmc nr business Onceseated by the peat^ftided snive 3 anied thrpn.
lie mnsklcred m> questions. Siis Inne. gentle
face turning ihimgbifuE
"I wifi tdt you hnw it was/1
In said, "andIhipu it Barm wuM :i heaven ipi -i place M'ilh
!>ig iutndsome Jainilie.^ .i £ nth it uad sm >mi-
with ;i boat of their own If some thing is opt
done lo keep rhr people n hitti spnn ihetv wiUtsoL be men who urn gu anyw here in n I hpuL,
m nm wealhcr Or men who letupw hfnv np
work the LiriiJ, nr do whalever nt^.ds lining.
Thffn Barra iviD just be a lonely island, with
iiul fte^plr nr^ si no more a lively plncc
“Bui I reniiTiiber when tlireebund re rl boat
-
were here, working the herring Thai Wits
be loru [fj)l4. Thejs r iti uih? evening, ButT+i
men enHstfd in ihe Royid Navy. Many nevtr
came barb.
“The be mts were beacheii, and rotted After
Lhe war. it dtiptessioU in (uTmany ruineii uur
best market Then sat! we ill mil ami powercame in. %'hai kiherman could afford ^
power d riven bo ;U ?
’The curing of the herri ng was going scant,
rmd there Was no work jit .ill! for women mdold folk The fiibtrmen ibemyelve^ were
breakio^ stone fur thr roads So thr |ieople
begun lo i^n away, as they had in the flitting,
.l I u u n I : i 11 . - ir-
'
. .ri- whun Hit lnndlurijfe
were taknig lain ! from ihc crofter* and put-
ting ?hecp nn it"
“Ccmhl the h'lhirtg be hrnugbl biu'k^M
I
atikecf him“Ayr, it l’ouIi I he.niiu Lli.U grants ami Iweejs
con be had Bui for io long there w^s always
thr tulking and thr waiting und thr In.sn^ :ii
time, and the pl'oniises not kept'
\s riii's P'liigjutni moment P Ihtt kllchm door
"Thr ttuilmr ihr 13^4^1'* arttvhSr* in kharil-!' U ‘'The HiyhlDfjiU. Straughold of iVoltblh i dkcldnini
'
N.vjunsiAL GHtCRArHic, xMiurh 1%S
Wlure the Aiinjip 3 g 5en wea^ev throujih ihe meky shore, like a
-hLiiik in ftkrttf tnoriefi. Ewcu MjiNcil hoes fw..Lj.Lrx,
Li a\. Northtin^ on Bjrra.
Tin the \iMih riven istinds. crofters pfint aeutow -hi ps. cnllcd kedsi"
rnvftdiig 1
0
i"m mth =fidH dug bom Irrnche? an rl fertilizing
riiem with seaweed e:u]iereil at tow tide 11 technique? create
wr U-draiotri plr-t- where islander? grow dsiis barley and ryr
mu! Hn.iHi ! k.m
banged open and m walked A large earArchie Beg leaned back and relaxed
!l
ts Is the [Jet dheepr that wa> n bottledfei
I
"tpltitn Sht Nil- i 'inn- In \ < tel in to her twin
Innib:-, itml shelter with us. She will nut -.U-p.
with I Pie uiher sheep- She is friends with het
due, anft lit: wilt not drive lief. She thinks she
L5 a person
I left him Imjghmi^ which is n commoncondition for n One!, Hud went on to look
tor Suei M.i- lmyrc, a crmfler fisherman who15 thing proof thul fehlny tun In- bimLizhJt
liiit'h Ian lives in ECo I scarry., on j pwiiisti^
lg that ini’, north \r*tm the hulk of Barra,
hounded on it5 east >ktr by htoml tirkd strands
The WTcatr 1
?! of these, Trail; h Mhcir rtpcttc-1
?
a square mile of hard and level sand at
low tide, Beneath to silver surface he eotmt-
bM less pullions ul cockles, which codoaisgours
once reckoned lo he the finest in Europe.
W‘riitnti n\ l $49, Donald Mkinfo, High De.mof she Islandv reported ihc local r h^i ir> that
Cockles rumc out of Ihc ground in emhr-nform in ,t ircNh-aiNitr? well above the stffttid
and were curried h\ "vane lit It: str v r i%im|
downwith Ld iSil' -lm . -md after thei comingi 1
1 1 hi- spldis | iid; s#iuli> gmu i% strale t.'okill^
. 1 1w n ytn.\
' he r n ; i fai re r and more | . t n i slit 1 1 lr
.-jljuL- [nr i iikil - n all 1 he world1*
The "grate CnURfi* art still there,, as I
proved with the t- ul nv hunt, bill ISami
has never pmvtd them profitable. Iromcol-
h. transport problems have hindered Sbdresplo:tatti m—ironically, heatuae rhi5 sameterckte -tFandL- Eiimi\ attfpnri [pages 6£!-Mii i- probably the only coniiLUTcul air|WHin the world Lhai h submerged twice dalli
A- i wnU'hcd. a lour-eniririu BritL-h Eur upeuri
JFmfj JjJJpt \ j JWgp
* 4 fc F^K||
HPV —
Ainvay* Heron settled upon Ww shdbsajid
surface Im ii 1 id If while u would leave .again.
ln>;innf| pss^pjp'^ a nr I mail -ami light, high
value Iruidn, bill tip >m h cumbersome curgn
AS I’tKkles
tan wm nl horneT Uniting to his livestock
.
1
1 1 l: r ji <Ijl\ jit >gjl Afar the required earn rh 1
Hi
an the weather, he ushered rnr mtn hi* t le.in
;ltv 1 a im i n r i id ! 1 1
|
*jw I < » r ^ hr rt hi? 1 e served
ii - jjrrr^jfrr ft lea and snarbl ami hi- lilth-
d.uighttr- sum-vrd me Mi Li^inaU'tJi
Flora Claire, ihc baby of the familv undid-
ready ti [lingual presented -weet a smilt
1 hill I i alibi rim help holding out my anus In
her "In ifsy -ui|>n>e die trotted ovrr ,rnd
dntii'ulh nn my bruit1
"Set! tbitt, riMWl1
I t» Laimed prnucily
“Ath, nyCf Flora Cinire doesn’i tare who It
is ;-he Hoes i y B“
:-uuI her mi idler, as proud ly
Aiiollwr >. 3 ii Id tatne dose looked up Emo
my face, decided ihni I v. as appart-iiily m*
imsre than human, nird began it* mu\
i
to me.
No Wiindrr I ilmu^hl. tliai the Gaels air lJu
warhum of Stmts anil rtx>st 4ucin.bir of p-.uple
when they arc brought. up to like stranger?,
rather than to I ear them.
Ian talked about billing “M> kubei wm: i h-lLH mm i. so I'vt atwav - fatnium Mime thing
about the work Now the biiard has given me4 loan Hn bir- a boat, a A >4uolcr WiHi .« kjhhI
ditsel ermine
"t havr * [^srtnoTi ^uirL we lift UK) tree)
?
Ini hut potsj iOdi day* Jllrt nciw r
hpeople an
waiting to >ct how well wt -net red- \\ bra
they see t hit? w<" h-ive, theji wilt fisllow
Few a few day:- lunger l runum/d tha
ful place, .vt uppi ng often along the way I
sampled l lie simps. *r.urhiit£ for ,i new razor
fVM ft r 4i nAaJMh aw *
"They I'M-TtBSi' thcinjtdu^ wjik
Mm-ujEK* nlfrfnp^ and spirit*" a visitor
wrote f Hcijndi'aa! iLnfJcers in 1793,
.mui 3nve of Tftuak still prevpdb ^ an
acsiurdioFi pinys. rntuph font uti inlrblif
feel ill itw vilL^i- lull ut \ MliliLLi'Kh »m
Scsipth UihL Kiii ei -jrnmt'f manyvoufijater* lake part in 1 1 .
i
im.l'
i,
iirn|.K.tiisajn-
li
I
I hr :-Snnd:
-- Hiqhlaisd i. =arnr -_
I P'X 'IIM-HI r I - >llll«-|it <kTIIPp<- £ * E H-
i P4ile fif -tux si ili i l'iri i Li
tm^hramj nl KulliJC^,rr> yihouS a.- Barrs
girl skjj 1 1; -.ril in tl:rjr i kkdlL loHiiSUL".
At pniruuy schtml they letun Knriish
?ui a scr^ntl lafip^c; go on
Inverness U) tn^h idinoL, main n|‘
dicni fipver M hw aimJli> <ill I heir ^li
cal Implcd ujfrjrtunitb
trm
ip Ebe variety Store, wHo&c ownet reter+ed
nit hn Eli
t
1
r;iffcy fc a I e i w hi' re 1 w*5 u ru •'i i
iff would J Und one a\ the butcher's, rl didn't !
I crushed tn nearby Vsttermy island on Ifurtur
MacLeod'^ JO- foul htanti l/pAtm-fc uj vM(t j 1 1 1 Kan M m K i n no n , whose marvelour mem-on- cantatas fly* hundred Gaelk ^mgs- and'vine as mttn_v proverbs, including udmom-ttotts pjipinsi eat In r an ck before puine to sea
and mentis] rtin^ rabbit wibde I -Shiv
One Sunday, sitting on a Jiililoji fnrl hull!
before tin; coming; of Chrif,i r I heard an urgan
From below and recalled that .imon^ iSit
m i1 -• "rnir.Li i aJvirnst ..r thi imi ih I II
instrument wa? known sis "a feht ot wliistli;*."
asUntHidh ii_. I Sit bagpipes, lhott£ "l .l.u f; -dirks
of tbr dtpviJ When I s&t. home for JunHi !
afield Mry Sinclair about thjtt
"Why my deaf, it's just that they’re ter-
tMy holy m thi northern isl ands. TerribhImlv stricter Ehaii we i 'alholir -
hew in ihr Miuth Tht) won "( even go out at
ill oil Sunday. L'v.ept to church uf cuur
unless they ifettd to."
Before I said goodbye 10 Harm, my lather
rattle itu i From ihe States to juin me. Sun "I
,1 Uluniow-Wii Garl nf Mijzhlaiirf imjtesiry;
Archibald knew thi Highland 1
wc-lL.but had never ^een the Wfetern 1 l: - L
had promised tbul tJiestf bleak bare i sinmb.itnd the people they’ve c reared, would stir hts
poet’* -^hj! I 'hey did fpases fi'tJ-^j
We walked the!r i r i I bmrbcs-, took tea m
cheery parlors, Arnsed thus -sol in.
the moflcsi cruft 1 1 ouses, and. at evcritait,
watdhed cattle crus* (he cock It strand.
npill M CAME THE CKlttmfI ihr niriht touching of .vcsruil i.^ierieiive*A for thi i;-u whn lovi words and tuu-i-
fur Liu4 Gaels love IhhIipjiik[ ii U in ihe ceilidh
shat duty s h i • vi ill
c
it love best. Tim wordneare a visit. A dozen people or more meettn som Feme's hmne Co enjoy stories, *r<MM-
and, with Lttfkp |ii|im*L
tlur luck was uuoi] We went i.rilidhing
tu Odium Johnson’^ I n: • r, and CnJIittiiv
* !l yrar-n did and ont: of i.liu hiu^t piper* of
the Hebrides, played a pibruth for us Whenbe was dtm i m\ fattier *4U I.
h,W ii.it .1 ^reat
pleasurr uhjVc triven its What u <4 rent .mil;
sad pleasure."
"Ack well."" said Cal In m, Liil’? berhuiw mv
whole life, you £fie"
3 h p n Ii r udcli fi . r i nv st i c m\;j .st (and
a ii^ uhl mm to Mother, a very hi
mnn yolirsdt f(W vour AKr Vrul the liv^*
Hkiii l lose, Likvn w liti quick oifectlon. anddiscussed ihe excellences tin.1 cf^hLh decodeol il maq’s life From beyn rid die nhivtnp
coovers4tii>n ground mr, 3 heard Calturn-..Hvirm lhai 4. bir amotint of mrirn^ he’d -punl"
on Ljopior* would n t take him "Truni here tu
Cast.lvbny" a S '.'H-rmte walkWe had il itram ail around, to cl1 la h rail- thtj
warm occasinri, and more piping Then MrsjHdtTLvoo Imiutht in a ’UmfUnon- ^liupnch,
uh1 1 i rs us in a lau^hin^ vnsa- \hM “although
you've bad j rtftip of the Cnraturc hhe menntwhsikevl vskill suteli bu waintinu vouj tr.i
BE l i *RE \\ l
a
\X tu k I f* ou r no rl Jiw ard
tmvets, our friend* Wee anrl |
sni Minn
laid ur?. (he InM ceilidh for its, \md noliner farewell could have heefi uElVrcd. Fallu-r
MaeLellftn was 1 tn.re, and ihe island doctor,
and a leachcr and a er.oftar and a fine ynunEt
fiij*er j u st back from away, and tiyo yuungbidiei. who sang liknf aesyeb
\\\‘ tell in > hr small hours full ol haonEi ilu tune? and i uritiQS taks, icltinc eacB uther
ivhai a proud thcim it wa* pi p-hnfe the bloud
loir; or >uch p&rjple
Tim i'Uiymffri- htoughl tif from Harra‘-
< H-.1 leba>' into LcM'hljuLvrl.dr. u villam- built
around a prrfWify pmlecied natural horhi>r
on Stiutli ['iht Lc.n.UIji lisdale hoi-t.- llj i .nl
rmrabic hold in which the firi^l Hy-ftsbermen
of t: he o !a>n n w u re al ready Sod iivi J W* 1 wepeasleep brim rhr tbrp$lhe$ on the chimneypols had ended their e vending
In ihe folkiwinp d:t}> tve explored che mid.-
M'ction of tbe l.rmy bland tluM i^ in ?a>
iho Ulsis, N+
orth and ^outh, with tittte Bcu-becula as the sttrppin|L*tonc lietweei] them.
Oner M!parati;e| h -h.ijlnw waterways ihmcould lie forded only at low s Ide, they are nnwUnited hj bridge arnl r tsu‘«L , iva>
L ist . as the th s et i ifr mu 11 1 m e? c r i] Ice
lively called, cOttidsts of three ebsLinrUy
'HHirent kinds of emuitry hb «st coast is
hilly rocks, Lind pierced bv ijerji h i r h
-
its ceusef i- I'Mjjtuy moorla nd, covered vriih
hcether and FfbIi water lorhons. Its west
coast, vv i dr open to the full force of the At
litntcr. consist* of tveachr^ Iveycmd compare,-hiJiimz dune-, and. hehinri them, a ?oir>iit(i
• i jo,s r al|
i laim a 11 ht ni nrb cut
'
' This much-air Ittiidt foruujicj In lijii^swwt ^hell %Eknd
blown in] n n.d from Lhe dune*, produces \iw
bulk of thr islands’ erdp^
The machmr will wow Itixle in ki rratoral
-:talc. Bui she ocean itself solves that problemb> vitovifiinq se&wmt: lu> Hjawfced i- etiphii-
Like mingle from a. fairy wand, tulips bloom at PelILi h . an Naifth
ITJriL by the Hlghltafrifs cu l l i
Ilritini o British firm raise bull is n* caul I Crop till "llir mach^ur."
a belt d limey • be 1
1
- l±j i il made fen lie wttfci rfftweed
niously called) with Which the fi*ft pm ^oil
rnn t>c made fertile
Mac hair and seaweed havt bestowed a
-.pecial bli^inf on South risl Said John
M;u 1 mies, the diitnet Lefk, "Wi are r Im- utdv
inland in the Outer i fi: brides lhul h;u nut Iasi
population latch ThfU is betaine wf hesve
more mpthair land than the others, and it
plant that drier and ptdvcrkc* seaweed for
lifii: Mi everything itooi jellit> to welding rod*..
\ lot uf crofters ram itlsnuy hy LGtlbrriltyE
51‘awccd Besides that T we still have a .small
British rocket totme. And fishing bools and.h killed men Ui cruu them
'
Surli a man is M^K'h MacKinnon E
found him lli the -nut hern liji al In inland
—
it lithe ymenu; seaman, pleased wi\h hb lot
"“1 am a hshu emailT he lojil me, "Thai is
luv life, and il i& a uckxI ratfc 1 w urk cm a S"
font fcrawkr, thr ivf Marin' ;ut»hriw3 m&-vtrr thefr [he pomlrd ^niirlirust, mil the wndpiwjun Eriskuy. two mile- away Thu EH>-
kay fulk have never lo^e tht Imbit uf listing
1
1
nr 1.1 ii2 L I hr jw led lie nl It
for a while wc dbruss&d the techniques
and economics n[ [klnaiii. "t is winter, when
the herring is an. tliu bouts work in puta. Vnu
str i spnl ui h« niriK and you dioui ytitit neL.
The other boat picks up the end, and he
sleam- with you Then he joins? \ mi. making J
nnjz of Tin 1 nei and his lads come aboard Lo
help haul up and brail om“Then the fish jm wild ft; is cmly due Ui thu
sheer good nature of the herring that ymi gdtint all. If it aJI headed Frjr tin 1
I iimm at uncc*
it would pull too hard aJtmu'Lher. There
woulrl be mm hnkling it But as it is. we do wdlenough We miazhr get 500 ctan otj herring la
cran. .dimit MO jmuthhf] in unu ring. Bitl
even 2i* i.s not hud, if you need il
"
\y 1 |(ffi, Murdoch i pretty wku cume mwith three black- hatred, blue-eyed chili Iren.
"This youngest lad,11 snd Murdoch, touch
my an upturned faff.,hhc says he will he -i
li^niic muii I fiAj ,'in that othe. you .unc very
jstupiih then ” l h l.nnihei j, enjoy trig his JoJur.
South UifctV one main road runs itmi^ht
(Con? ui ft ii oft p&gr
TMF THRUSHON fHE 3 SI.AND OF
BARRA
K> ihe sea loch Island e^tk,
auctioned off for overseas,w;rp -
.> '•
shriek in their frantic pens in ihe
kite
]i yhi and ihe I brush answers
them . *. ,
1 am remembering something
—
No,
not remembering: it was told lo
me;
some terrible aching Ihing that I
was told of the
old time, of the poor crofters
cleared from the Highland glens,
from the Hebrides.
The landlords wanted the land for
sheep, not Gaels.
I here were sails on the grey sea
and voices calling
landward over the surf: the
thrush answered.
6t)Z
Archie Beg MacDonald told it:
-i man could walk from North ba\
over Barra
dear to the other side and the
doors open*
the dogs running in and out of
the open doors
and rhe unmilked kine at the
gates—that moaning;
only the unmilked kine and the
dogs and afterward
evening and the thrush above the
thatch.
not remembering. My father's
father
spoke the tongue—not I— that
can remember.
Nevertheless I hear the Island
cattle
shriek in their frantic pens. I hear
the thrush answer them: pure
song,
perfect indifference
like the will of God*
Ala Hi K St t> MftcLEJ SH
] am remembering something
No*
I LflNf rrmntfmm l
nfpfih an r-:i>- i In- rem.ru I moor. Here ! ^uy
hmd -ilmu'.i LLninSiaUiii^] Vr! umrfor h low *-r*
ing sun that turn* tht lochans from dark
(h‘|ilh> iu tajiphin surface*. tin muur- '{m*v
their own somber loveliness
We went mm hward >ln-.\ly, sainpling the
Islamic center pud it* sdv&_ In the hog?, cruli.-
ecs curved cm? -ipplrh: Jibib* l.i pivil w huh„
umlv dry. would serve us nest years fuel
'pposiltd. In the sea lochs behind (hr aitikvd
guofss of (he taster n lull?. boatmen harvested
^eawiire. On the mac hair plowmen turned
their sandy soil, fallowed by while whirls of
clamiiring gulls.
As my fiilhiT noted:+llu Ihr Hebrides irfiit
ii most striking is rw( the mountuidv nr the
heather wiurs nr even the -^ea Uhourh she sea
is evcrywh^rei. it is :|n |icople And nut the
priitjLt- tmr |i> nnc, hut loe-thi-iy m their rrfji
tton to each other They ibgr of themselves
1 I i-ii i" iii l" in (iimynainonie, nf lodidar, ur
Kiipheder ‘ Thc> mean they bddlfc to the
people thi ri' \m I they do. An old woman llv-
ittLi ftkitvt in a house by the sea a good i ju.in r:
iii ll iiiiIl1 frcini .inotheir humr is not 7a$pm* and
certain ly nm lnm-lv. She UjelonKs'to her land,
her people. She feels it"
HE COULD HAVE been writing about
Mi>:; ilum Macl'lierson of lochriar
fk| the north end of the inland She wa^
pniirip hack ac ro.1--- Leu? e rrift> in ht* r Wellittg-
tim mu I heavy1 rweed sksrt when we arrived.
Shi? brought In and look uur coals and pur
us in her|mTished parlor, apolotd/.irm ini ari
untidiness that wiis nowhere tcii he ^een
T
I
W re Vi!
' re1
1 i * S u r e Of ft Latives I- VC ry -
where and a Imk' -gluss clwvt foil ril blit -n-
bl'ac Bui 1 Ii v ah 4cnce ed sat' rn J ,%-tat lue^ show ed
Ffjfpd (nr winter hFi''-:
tF
tiller iii i s‘J IkTLef team up
'll “'tPUlh l L>t In hftTViSt ii
Ihe 1 1 r-ii iii 1 thoLoSjiLe
if peat a du> TlKi'seggy
rarbnmjcd rurr, which bwarc iimulaird kti hr-irtfliver
Hit ii Hit 7,000 iftsahv
panicn^ and shrivels in the
warm June sunshine After
I he [if v\- iky t)r .il K.iJt j
rnoriLh tn llie open llet, ^v i ^ e-
and diiughten will help
I h r nmn kltirk them like rite-
beside cruft cutLLge
s
ihorlew \f\ hiippitics.%
and ctHiIcnlnirnr,41
a minister
Allied the simple LCilmge^
he the lieh rides ha l^-Kn anrl
littlu has changetl (k
0i> ^ft r^r |
pesuy Miiii Lttid hnE^
before ,i pear fire In her
neat hvtnfl rrwi-rn-hrrlfJWm
The bSiLMr warms a kettle of
wnLer so Mlss MacLeod
cur nffer n fjew/Fui ft, tea
and li smucL w wayiarcr
or i rsprid
di 71 1’J -«a iijfJJtlJ I
69s
"And wc in drciiuu bdmttJ iKi- I E 1 1 ni1
"
wririlr «U1 rvilr- I «r Iii5 Lh3r=>
He rtiity liav c hitd m mind a ^ccimr i i k
th-Sr nn lh' K JkJhn^ cusil ni ^r«rMi
Uh\. In fKirthcrly bitit utfe hvhidii
lingFFl until It) p.m. iti Lite spring. Llftlll
ri;flccti(uT from the *esi nh'ti Hit tow-mil
Hitiriflc ilflfltr *-[ in mi (mii.. qu;iliti
tm
i
N
mj ih:-. u'.i- .1 a ViTte&taui home, on# of the
few ::i the struntsK C ;utj. .]n scKUbern iskruft*
Mr-: M nrPlit-rson did no-t concern herself
mu i:h with the subdivisions of Chrisiianit}
"If- &o use al ,M ttt wt l rm k<!r.- wurryimi
nbmii other profile's befid-t,* 'he. said, ' die
wav .souse i^otfcStants dn t*j> nurlii. My hn-
liAnd was always savin g that we should be
‘H'lfiruJ 1o i' i i i’Imt .i-ii I' i'mtii I h. »ii ;-j t i
-\«“ r
lit fH'npfc, f-uppu^itoje they were dc^ eui. Anri I
-i-m i I a1 H If illilNIfl
tnihd lu? always wa* pohte id the wee nuumie
that fame with hi? to srll things—
a
Pakistan, I twtifcv* hr wii> Wei!, hu was hia
-
(turn imp, d'yi- st-p And when my husband
died, thf Pakistan wa- (osnirip by tu tell mehe wn* stiff} Wasn't that nice of him?"
We left Mrs MacPherson wavjtig by Iter
Eate. regained the; main road™ fad rro&sed the
hndiw iiUo Herd -nuLs Nothing about the
looks i|if its [and dbunEuisbed il* bum I hr
I i whi t h 1 1 imercon w ecis 1 1 s spri m * I-
a c te r deri ver. In im i i - [ « n
|
ujkli
n
flwhie 1 1 offers
1 1 vink !' r ' "if that harmony in human nrlulintii
does not require MfiiDgrnnK ui leu k promid
,ljhI belli!"
Btoberukt is the butler /tint til which
i athohnsm and Prut c&fautism overlap Theislands penph- :%tc almost rlivjrjnl
I it* ! wet n i h lj
s wo faith*. Yet " heft i s wo ink* -
t'ulh httJr discord bcttoi^n them,r
7
U ! MUki USm *11 if.
TMtintm - wondpivserviiiive i« low -rum
hou-ifiK erected mt
Uy rbr Kph 11 nil Cra-
miiitv ( tiunM Counnl* IT
LiVila js in th*1
i wlftliiifa
iH rhts iJultr Isles, th?
I^iislr rnnk<' teamwork a
Eenei id luirh Thou
a fbfmr corner e-it if- -ji m3
I toiler Ur il ibt
imltriintt of a luftbCU l lH‘
a i • Lain .a tui.LL uf
the raisin#, 01 IivumkL.
ilT*. lUH r*. H jk K_
|JUV ;tre a mixe-tl lr.it here. rmhl ftiouflh^
.'.aii I l tin Reverend Ahelis Smith nf i iriTniiush,
"and not only In ivliptitih Thtn11.^
British rmikt1! rnjijjje just over l \n? way mi
^'lUMi I i-t, .md ii r- military personnel asr
q-iarteredan Benhecirlu They it re very decernp-ilk, but English 5peakti3u, ot cour-r Mi=-
ciirmnl hut cuncrrTi i
|
a> fur wu kave our Cad it
i.miiUiij*!- and iht tradition* that will dir wish
ii if ever it ia lo t to os,. And wr cammi In is
wonder why the governmnni will not spenda ^mnli fraction of thr money dust will ;:o
towan! - JiUtr i^aniz the base in develop our
Island, Are rocket* iw> much mare importantthan hiudtiti digiiityr
“Strangel* enough h (he religious division
<d l lie island ezu-c? fewer problem.* than rbb
CulUlMil mini m riaiinn 'Hit? re k tremendous
toleralion litre, you am dpi yosir fellow men,
and ycjii are ticteplcd by them It’s a-, simple
m thsu I ‘hr I .iinii tdand b clcarfj divided.,
I'nHfniun! in the mirth, t athoUr ir (In -ousii,
and W'v i iiii hr prinnl llusl in nur rime no une
is iryin^ to unify is
K see pi, of course, for the etiglmtrs. whnw19MMQ heitv i;ni i vuss^ US quickly bo North
surety one gf earth's most snun datedislands From 1 he mpol Eaval, its
tsie.ht'.d hilL North L i -a b a filigree of land
inlaid with pulbhcdl plaques uf water, iresli
Lind sail. ; if I’U'r. Anri.jhapc OrMh^Iowiyirig Suml it would be almost import hie tp
itiuve a ;nlit in any direction without -M im-
ming pur! -I 1 (he WHy ijUUpES 0%-"
2
\ fun1 narrow tu-idi lenvc Lht central high-
wav tfj weave their will tbouili this maifc ofif *
ponds, lochs, and fjords. On& of fhese makes
tlir it trull of tinm^av (until \9tiQ a. separate
islet i and passes by one of the Lonf IsIiukTs
muesli busings vcniur^n, u larjcc lobster
jjuiusd. Built by a venturesome young maiii"
lander named Dun cun Kr^fcme aU'I hooked'. the Highlands Qjid Inlands Development
Board these holding tank= help free the UUland Burnt faintermm from the lynumy of m
wildly ihii UjjLS liih mainland imcrkeL
"U'i- esa hold 15*000 pound& nf lobster fur
u ample of month?," Duncan told us, "and
three times Thai lor u couple uf weeks In
frUtnnnrr wc fiui HI) twn DC-1 itdrpliiises ifach
week for the French market."
WE WENT UN UP THE ROAD to
Lothmiddy * o futt maural harbor
tucked into the eastern sirle NnrMi
DM, u hfch a tfeepw^ater dock urn I a
pleasant hotel 'Phene wu established our-
in fitcMt comfort for a few days while
tve contlnue-d tcii explore the inland Our bir-
gets each day wot# RoograpfriL iih iiviiumaMe
thing* 5ur:h 115 can be marked on maps:
benches, hrut 11 lu 1 d>, M1U, mins N'cmetd ihrHt
wits ever a disuppoinEnu'iit, but (hr living
sceno we saw uloujf 1 1 1_ wu> provided the
most memorable momentt.
Take the dog*, far n:-i.mce: Tin- L r-i? are
Tull ul l lie in iiJiiii atmast all me nimldc blat k-
,ituJ while: harder t nHk1
:- My fjuhcr watched
one ill thffitf ni wurk and Miid
"You know, you can tell a settled people
by their dog? Wfeeto these docs art lvorkiop,
they ignore you. When you re a pm -51 in their
homes, they' re pa&nnerlyj but ycui >ee their
dev ut too to Nii'ir iUi^u*r-: ihu;- loafc up often
inEu their faces There** a true relationship
between master and dog. The strati i=ur exists
only II hit enters that relmionsliip, U hereas in
,\ )es& settled oncy in sul'urbiii, -ay, .1 din;
will attack ynu because ymi'n- n -TranksM
Take the bird* tte ftmod them in great
number* on the mac hair and In the* onfall
floods. Lapwing* swooped and whirled in
joyous acrobatics or dived at the fi inching
heads of egg-stealing hooded crow* t 'urved-
bill cniflews patrolled the turf, Snipe whirred
overhead on Sht irt
,
noisy wings. Gulls ami
exqutalldy graceful terns sEtUed The w ind.
Swaps ghosts nr lanrik>rds pu?i. . n's suul
—paddled in ihvir prrKimil y-kair hi^i of water*
nr tir-h i|. obviotu a> mtnchesj in wispy
arLus. And almvc all (hc^, often mvhibiiy
larks kunii llu : 1 rang and sane their hcLiri-
breakiEit'
Take [he yemmpter- My frttliffiT wtuil' irf
I henn "1 he duklrenl Win - an br in different
Hi the child re iU Their completion Is rc^w iilte, and gold, Tlnur retii'eiicc b iiln.* ukind
nL 1 iiiiiK irm e: Lhe Innocence children taught to
have To be children and w'i'h u> so rstreh do
I uu ng m 11 1 iv ui 1 Hir i' [ 1 10 nu n" h of and too littletf
Take the 1 1I1 1 :trts La hLin Mai:l.>«-niiM ni
Crftasay rtesisms hb own ivvired^. wi^aves
tlj L:ni an Jiis own Jootte> and seiucfs them to
far-off pi cut's. He showed lls the nuikimr of
doth. Ins in 1 :md hundSr nnivirsfl about ULiks
too quirkly accrjiupEished to be ofeserv cd \hfather cornplimentml him anti be s^urj. " Vie
wrll + wr'vc ei N 14- bruin for Nutv,Fd
nut I jc worth much iis 1 uur line uf work, u-.idi-
iislc and wrilini* poetry,. Bui Lhere's Mnry
Moi Lmu down the way. die 5 a, hordesWe sat in Marys thatched ruii:uuj
. a » Ini I-
hoUMf. dim anrl co/.y, while :- 3 il' spoke poena-
iii GoeJic. lovely to hear even without undvr-
staudirtg. We lisle Med by ihe |,ieal fire while
Winnie- tJie < I Ue w atched her with
steady *vc.h, aorl a col nci bigger than a kitien
ruckled kittens no blggrr than mii'e
Tfc spring -. ^tslr sLUes were under way andLiu- ruicitr- w^ic man tiim iherr money ot
antlciptflJtim: ;l ipa^s 6S0-£ 1 ' Thr-i- -.1 If -
produce 1 Pic cosh returns for si] the c nutter's
york with his tattle and in ins fields risr he
• Silt It hut fuddiiif he plow - forhis cow-
I dropped my father nfi to watch l hr *iilr
at I>ochmadd>\ jukI drove "ver to Paible on
1 lie wc- i hf I iz in buiir about a new projec.1
which involved (be growing nf ilower bulb?
m 1 be 1 \; 1
1
;,
r:
1 uL&tz- 1; Yi± Min r I of the mac h as
r
ipage Lf
li was the iKMsrdV idea*1
stuii John Muc-
1 iojiH.il, The resident overseer. “They brought
In a British bulb firm, with experts (rum Hol-
land, .ind cried sis .icres. I he result? were line.
They plan to plant SO aeres this ysar
“But thf h i, l
I tiling h that the bulb rani-
pjui} cam teach each crofter how in grow t!u-
bulL- i.m his own bit of itlarhafr. He eouhl
moke u tfnHisand ]inunds profit out of an
acre It'? a Lionel plan If I'm ?twimh 1 ma>
live to see rrnffing r<>mfr \r.n k into its own"
All that night the cattle lowed in the pens
at Lmhnijuldy'- dock The hmd dininu ruom
was full of buyer* and ->ei I i-r^, .speaking in the
low . QmK m'ih-n nf men who have tomu thing
10 i3y—so unlikr (he ihHIlrtftSS o( these who: i
-1
*I Hn ji riuint .*m something Tu r'hr mnminj
H Ijolli i. aine for Ihr cat lie. Ttw drn\iTv left
for the mnUiLfiniU uni wt frir the li-L and
E.irjit-^i of liie Western ls!e>
Lewis *snr] Hum 1- tttft ,i singh M;lniI. d«-
uli. 1 1 In high, Mid hills that fe oetituife
made travel between Use two difficult United
as they arr |ht two differ in atninic every
11. 1 1 1 1 j I 1 1 Lewie ii low j- n d wet iht b ru
L
k
bog that f plusk i'i 7 niu.il of Lt* Mirfai e dll but
itninlud'iittd* vet si liHuists i population oi
1
5
i300 Jirntmd its :-fn he*, am! >1 u hi iW&J , 1 fie
kugtsl luvrii in the Lorn: Island Harris is
mag n kfircpj wi I h the beamy 1 ;if let sru Iji n red
stone and radinnl sea locks a Mr I -mall
hidden delb where lUrn h rx*rib and life
Tiie people Formed in ifiese deeply dtffo
iag molds differ itjo. TheLftri# ift&n is shrewd
and practicaluHe j^oes in hard,
11
upd aUistfriend, “and hr keeps nn cning;* He work*
fti.der and hr dances quick* -nm Calvinist
\ uugb he may be oti the Sabbath dw- HieHarris ii. 1 1 speaks softly* gently, He smiles
its are aad ren ucrc? Ici* aff hiime If of ii neither^
De*jii
s
i t heir di ffe rt1 nee I rnm i .
i
v. n|
iti i-plr,
she flnrrk folk share with them medieval
uriiuri^ in the Nora? vlan Lead, Two of
Uwl—tlirrpfun? iiaihfed MjlLlosI—eachfounded a tribe l Torquit, the MacLeods uf
Lewis: Tormod, the MncLeods of Harris and
Skye, They were good lairds in their fashion
— re ^ut1.' Ltin I pirate-.. |HL
Lrhap5 hut rcuisifh'rt&iv
Snifcil 1 h ancL.i lr> l-i
help. A Hide girl buhl*
thfr htirn. of ik bark
Dll^kfucc rafts all lull'
i liter* i Hturb non.
rhps bis £kir k ill ;i
communal | i |ii » ri jzEsS I.
-ifuireil h> nUiei
crullers near she villnpir
ol Levitburgh
FiiniMfit^i ni Stornoway
process island won\ and
shen ilrllvtr ii is yarn
Si- :-Ouh' I.Ji'hj rjutler-
wi.'iWlt- ihriluptlCSuL Mil
Lilmidi Working ..k
looms m i heir cottage
thf WfflVctS fp-shinn the
faltKi-Ei L liiifrLv I v. c
L
vi I
known in Gaelic ju
- IT irreiiL I.litth:1
af i.iju i r r L-iici n T3 , \vh o w e re, ad t*‘ nil. ipi e ir Wm.
We found memories of the old
ill thir village of Rodid at The southern tip of
H.irriht where I he line square- 5 ottered fMh-
cenliiry Sl Clrmerit s Church tfeejteirs three
of l lieir lambs* marked h\ recumbent knights,
carved of glittering blank stone.
families wen. working pockets of servile
soil Hu- we drove by. Spudca were the cuki-
vatari* tootsy then? is no hitd nf plows in ahim! without field*, But despite I he startling
lack of Arable land, the bouses were bigger
ami better kepi lb an we had seen m the
nurhair nch Vi*u litelrict clerk DonaldMju'Dtii aid old as why
"We have iiH'fi In the merchant nan, :?
e
l i J
in*: home Lilt they can* and gltls with ji >1 >- in
i tksfgow helping inis, n Liver trjr^ettLn^ wherehome L*. There ,irc older people ai work > §r
i
* he ma in I Lind who keep it ft the family plact
Itere. waiting for the day thir. children tv ill
have the means to rnnie hrttk and stav/’
Mr ftl;icl>!?njdd went atf tip \ at prats amivre along & wrll-girNiced but > hjJtenjpiigly
narrow ribbon of raid Etiwiird Urine ^header,
when-. wefd heard, hnmespun ewl‘«| was still
made I had rlti name of -Mts, A Ies Mar-don aid w ho hd >. I been atva 1 Lijtuhm andhad made a length f>! 1 weed for the (Jueen
Vi e (on od ihc- I .idy who might, adter it ftts hkm.
702
call ht 1 r^tlfhl
wp;tv*fr tu Her Majesty*
-.hi udag htm \mi her
»
bkk* mat til r.htt
weaving shed. She showed u§ the workin^r of her old v. »:.h
|
i.-n loum* rxpl iii uj,:
1 1 ui.1 "\ht modern ^TUel toot-powered
luomft that weaver? use go lasler
but when they HftVjt Ut lur t'ixer.1, il*s st
^EUmtir MU] are iieffLni: and I am Hmtawkward iviih took m& mac bines Sd
I pul this one But i caAnoi s^et parti to
st i he|
I ace thal was mule im n i s um le r
lakers how,"
Slu- showed u\ A lump of pure indiim
And told us nf ijihfr - Ue JVat -out, du
said, ttiEtkes .1 iiini]-.'', brown: iris root
LpuKcllug out Li bll of s^Oivip u nli
tlur jEuutis* *fttrrfccgprr Donald tlorniM
willLb uti fu-bUitnefi in 7'jrheri. Largt l
vdliuee eii Harm Hie C! -in I irmnM
Which nuMtii- ruitiJr hflUv in
lakn if* riamr frrtm |kmnld flf 6 h1h\
Fm 5-i.HJ vciin. ib- chiefi tmirUrjiictJ likeT
iuisfette(pHi. itt they taefeotinied tre-aUe* wuhEnjrfiliirk IrHand, FtanErr, nrnf Scfitlaiirj
Ipprctiticc wewvpr^ m dn Jdt fJ
LttWb llsfh 1'.illirr by Tawiiiiiirej
SlfftTHlH LLV VillE I I& ll] IJ VV [Hi:; friif F|i 4 • rii£ •
'piiwMrs dim fit in?Lc|p rhi 1 Juihhin-
ut .i Junto 3ri tttaUi) .i i fritter'?* rnlliiEL?
dir mmir of ife kdic nmlm!*'‘Cllck.-clj.vk, L-lk'k-etatJc, dilck-cipicSt
r i L .
l
week an IntJujArioiu wi-avetr uasi
1 1 rn i s i H l-
1
.i wci'h
|
-—m 1 1 of dntli *
yiirii-i king ivy :s% intijrs wrrit
1 r
*—*, fc j
.JflH
f 1 _^j|
fc
STv .«
" 7"'
. Aj
^ 1 M^ jnifHflp^T jfl
[M~A ,A9^' &>
f
L j,^P|\ jF^^ir(j ! .aMI Kb v a j»flr jr
HH 1 JHHf^ p
.
” " gp Hki T .
^HF i
-W*T* U # J -F^" 7 11 1JVjf 1 i jjf? .
1 *4•»v, * EQ V \ * ^J9 ;
A
*! *‘
, Jffc mr f rtuf gP -®fjr.
<ci . n ‘A - ¥"*. * Pf ^Jflj
** M # w— >4B
7 ifllHkJKHL-'-Zy^^^^lir^f^
|K#Vk 1WHE^tadBh^L - ? 1 *:'
- I-'"
1 ’ Ml -Mpa >
lw ^ 1 iib^i—“t avBB
~
t> |— jl
. 1I 1
i , i L 1-
1 1 , lIi" yellow, b«m myrtle a deeper oin1
.
lU'iithfi lip* 0vi< ;i. L
a
!_r1 L
Lgfvesi . indkl* ;t rm'k
lichen, a rusty orjutgc
\\'r ordered a length m cloth each l<> be
made fn siimntrr when the dyu plants could
lie izuiiirr^fL and offered id p&y In advance
no/* -s-he Mtui Tid rather noi, im III
w nuld be ntsllifiifs the money before I W45
earning iL„ \ \\ i ml 1 1 be dreaming about El
1
The princi^ul vjII.llt dl Harris i- Tarberti
w iif ihe preluie*L in the islands* with it*
-init-' m 1 -m.ill -(orn luuE-e^ facing -vn a hew
*ea loch where feme* and small freighter*
dock \i;rnss die writer From Pnrhi-rt J> Seal
ji.n, .1, jirisperous Iht li- inland famed for St-
skillful fisherman 1 ci I he hilh behind il are
-1 r
i
1
1
I
u- - nf boulder rewtt bedrock which,
Sc- my fut her' - r>e+ I nuked like Ucjri^ work-
11>
>1• Litter 1. 1 ijiiLiun. where the leftover pieces
us the world Were fcepl.J
SURROtfNDEI? I'> msjier^ntul. elemenl.il
wastes, Turhei i worms itself in Its ownhuman We spertl llie night in
its excellent tmiel. where ;i CunvuirJdldfi df
pEirticu Early accomplished thrushes sang The
Eonrg evening away to the nnompanimeni of
a tumbling burn When we left m I hi- morning
id work iMir v. ;r v tputh l Limn ah Li wi«, I twk
with mr a copy of a valuable,. olU-td- print
I ine.K-j'd upon tne lp A wnUtfman of
Ta Ebert who dtd not even knmv my mrm 11
wnuld interest me, he soifi and 3 ruuUd send
H h r k
Wt followed what mads there were, finding
our wn' i'M n->c ceils rf silver sand in list- west
and somber stackrouped valleys inland
3 i car i hi .hi- -toor C|iiham + father ul llvtct*
dean hill.-. I- f ilk were Iru in the mteiinr, and
shop?. fewer A- turn btime approached. w«-
implied !> a - tuft and a-ked Uv.n? wr mLrit.
Iil- able to buy a bil of biva/l arid cheese.
“Well 'I is n ven idee day. ' *aid dir Sad) of
1 1 1
1 house remind in£ me lluii rivii convey
-a imp.- ? hn Li id hej/in with a reUrferu Me* the
wvjithi.-r "'Son wid n^L he finding fund bird
by, t am bonking, hut t c fluid be anikhig win
saudtvh In-.- myself It is no trriiible a! all. I
5 1 rive live sons to feed as it i*HTbm* looking
up iSil" road, whence came u making mdrattling sound* she added* Wh r but you nre
in Luck I Terr trnni> the hi ore'1
And indsedt along came a van crammed
uiih assorted j^riK'eriiWi. Attn a greeting and
an arkoow ledeitu-nt that Hie rinv w.i.^. Witrm,
il cloiifh . wre laid in supplies and raadt for
Storwway \.UA lowing piL^esv
The LvuTitlme,, striving v+tpiinl of Lewis
-itm .h a merropnti'- all it the dank desert, of
the interinr 3l MinulriS -yedaii/cd boFi 1 -.
jirncrlilV^ of every category , and two second
ary schools- Ont% tht Nicnlson InsiiiutE, has
pUvi’tl more boys in unSvt rsit&e*. iJuui hayL'
soil iv. richer .inn mi -re n^>wticd mainland
*di rm\ - Then I, her l aju - 1 u.-tk1 V.tAlege, o Hers
practical courses for lflif> whom: I'^nt b to
wjrdtbi trade t nil her ihuri higher educaLion
WV feitk-d into i:heCrc?wn. I »iik :i high te^
afbjmquct protiiqrrtioii>.and wcttl our -cp unite
way:- m v father, dressed fn what hi >. allrd
his profetsot §uiii F Xv vtsll the aluHjl?, and 1,
IujuIvjI ami bowtatered* to prowl the ducks
>tornoiva> s §nlr harkor attracts shf[jn oi
many kind- Along the quay lay Norwegian
liiNg-hntns an inicr- bland earner, a fisluT-
itr- research vs'--['La -Libinarini . a putrol hoaL P
itrtcl Mitiu- twenty iu thirty r[niihlc-cnclLi d
trawlers back from the Minches with prawns
ami white fish boltomdeeder* like rod,
whiting, and linr
Henvcrn them* the Lvwb imwkr^ uni!
I frtm* Sierrin^-aeUer> eotdi u- ar tafce in some
half a null ion 1 1 1
1
1 1 . i r-
' w(irth of sea food ( pace s
6S4-5t t: inline, once a moribund industry*
ii now an economk marn-tny. >ei ond **n\y Tn
the making nl iwtjcd.
At l watched the evening fish .me 8 ion, a
tips\r islander, with less English than must,
underlet i k tn identify for me l lie stver:il spe
i Le * displayed
"Them is? vnhs, " he said, and end they were
“fhorn fe* lkuiy* anl ynh i^s jikm r, ant hi! re,
rnugersii Anl hisddi^hs unt k;itc- Atit these
here is*- dorklidj [dogfish)” I It icrinrarf with
sudden riji nlJeL:tJon. H haf a friend who hate-
dnekhsh He iss saying they would make him
sick* supposing he ate one. Well* IrLitcrly :i
ViFK.ii! vl !ui| ([y i-ct ji Kfildcm yclluW Into a i
- Lrd = 1
1
l; fnlw. Inue 111 StumuWayS
Renneth MptcKonlc mill Other modiinr.s w\\l spin it inio yam for shipment in eroftet*
wM return bulb- ot tweed to lh* plftnl Jim funrhine I’hen, bcanrife thr highly prued
irli trade mark which atLe-n- ilia [ the doth was Spun, sLm! nnd ftnist^d in the i >U<er
Hetindes und biwl-wiivcii h> ibe l^hmdw at tLserr awii hmne L — Iwecd^ wr^rih
mi-irc- ihan I Mi mUtbh • In I tar- annuitll) move- lo markeJ^ Lhr world
II-J.'HF -V flil — ;+fc KrfJK^- I ~rn 70S
bsd> Wiss giving him some nice fiUfeti. 'HowfitcS you like thiL fish 2*’ $b£ ^iys ijfiVdJj',' lie
4tcml>lr lovely’
‘Them iss dm ^fisli. >he
say* Sa h l- wum; ti tin m- k."
A n-. l lii tunborV l>usy wjlIci w ,l) lin-med
1
1
jl- im.|io*ing i miUiticin-Oithic: castle ut the
last of lie«ds% great lairds fopp< fcritej It stood
proudly in si purk decorated v. i
r h -of all
(fling?—iree* It fit no more Hebridean in up|W&foncir Elntn tH masterful ii-nuir WillmmLever, was Iti manner; and. like him, & aym-1 Wealth, power, and urguril creative
ness The i iL-iti- waK twill by Sir Jaims MaMi-'
an earlier busiru'—iimri and visionary
w hoi,Iskt I .rvH?r. tried uaniu us* fully I o enrich
and nioiirmi^e Lrwo-
Wi Ilium Lever \\ a-^ a well-to-do I .amjn'hlre
wholesale- go it v, I hi ht caim1 a multi millmn-aire ih rough ihe manufacture and marketing-I rsniip. Lilfc and lifebuov llt
u" among his
i'f_iiiiir.-,, Lever Brother* and HniL-vrr |k-r-
padmitc hu name in the siiii k markets andMipermarkt-i.’i of the world. Ennobled for ids
rirnffs- he combined his life's name with bis
own ami, n> Lord IxrVcrhulnw, I nought Lewis,
i he n Hattfoi im Lhe -.l- vi * ii i h deride of In- life
He vim* i|i lertaineil to jntieL the inlanders b- a
belter life, and to rimkr u profit in doing so
He mi e, 1st have succeeded had Lif.*, Huchctenants reasoned wholly along economic lines
Map.) did, and upp I auded ins projects. But
other* loved their Lund. and such libcrt)
tbfrir poverty [M/rinilSed them; they wanted in
lie crofters, not renters of compiiny bouses.
Lcvcrhulmc proposer I to establish mdiis-
rrses and i-tfer food w-ftgr* Toitinse who wouldhccomc his employees Bui the Lewis veterans.
It.urtie*- nil L
h
l* Weilpm ldr>. la«;>
rrn« Lfc’W 1’ Cjidc .l
!. StilUTi&ttn1
! i spfl jJ
el Ltrwb and eror^mk hub of the t-iil irr
nrrhipdi'iL i Today the Iftb-cmtiBn
-.1 roi lure, uvcrtoolfiriR a dftpwaiiT S^rlmr.
serve* .l- is -ihiwl, but half a ferctury
.iu:-.i ii hmi.wfl .i i L-m-Lf kubljc Engltshm^n,
William Lever. a mn I firm 11 Itiiioj re-
man yNici uriT 4ji mnp Lever l ujuiihi Lpwi*
ill i'J! ^ LLlirJ IlarrLs fhr- folio wing veur
Me ffli^ prejiilEttl lo spend 25 millifin
Mlar* d lid ^HrrKFiijiJ fortuos Elh
4 rjmVeit the remote ticqnm mtri _i ihrivsji|
r iunFnrrcuii center Oul nw bland
i mfrm preferred shr t raditional waynC V\\t and refilled |o
Lrvpr'- ambitiw^ plan cojlapied—ihe
'HiJ> iMm bf h\s usMnisbltlji caren
41 . C7 3 .
m m—
• 13k
4iCC*-4Ri
. HE . h._ i
back i?"m lhc buttkfielcb of W^rlri War I
wanted hi rail, nul wagjes Thf Eravmimtfnt
backed them* Hid Le\ nhultriL- jrstvo up hi*
prujccl? ! lu died m }T125M I utterly aware nbftl
logit se (fatflrtcmi ranunt always triumphover i mdi t ion
Thhtti i- ^lif] industry in -Sinmowav, ufT P
t nurse I weed mills operated Iherc U-lon-
Li’vvrbutmr's day, Lind Ehey have muEttpl ii’-'l
‘hi I r We went nmnd In the Harris TweedAssociation, crfHcfi, u I n :
r < i ilium MacDunald
t' 'I' L uh ^r&mr^thinR About the manufacture ofthat famous doth.
^Thfe mil]> spin tin: wool and send ll to
crofters to be wqnipii/’ he said man can
earn ! com 10 to pound* per week with h^I
' ft ms . Ik t id E he rr \-l re IJmii | n im e w eitve r=< sm I hi
hliiiffci. Nine hunt [ml more vtfiifk in llu 1 mith‘
I )tH
|i£>pil]tLtiOE jfcots on—uc lose a fanilly a
Wi-rk—but think wlnit il would be Wilhoul
the iweed- IPs big busmens. More tkrm five
nullum pound*11
worth of cloth goes out each
>mki r, 1 1 third of Ihn Siruliidi won I L:J ep
i
"
Mt. Mcu lJjpuaM Mnik ll* to r J «. KcnneMi
MueRuaine mill. where wind become* muhamt wherjs die rlui h homi^wovctt of that yumL* ftm i bed (page Tin) Lqter we talked lu awm \ fi a h mi e tn hi- si ltd
.per. la li ng hway vs p I si
Ids feel UJ* Id* dim lie shoi bark and birth
iitiLomj.ticallyf propelled by the Eteehamsm.
Hr iisiye u£ a ardorric smite etui *aid h
11 Stop i 1 1
.
isn't iv A mm nr would i»-e runiimg tin* Eonni
,iu*i it> well tv my tired old teps- Ach, but then
iE WnUld bo! l ie lhc SrLurv Tweed"
IXDKLM IT 1$ J VST I II VI LACK Of
trim dr power I hat permits the tWCwl to
1'ieLLi the |irfcvrnu- name "ILims* Thai,
uu I being rnaib in the Oilier Htbrkfes, Siirn
3 . it i 'wLh mild hi machine wm t:q in the MM-I- 1 j 1
1
!- JiiiH:- .iijlI vi|f| ioi JuJCl- mu* ha> Harris
Tweed But it would cinb be similar, nnr i In.1
same The mulemark preserve's both the fiat"
fabric ;j
J
irl m esseriluij island Industry
To see Lewis, you imiit Stufftoway,Li it I lie I OWIl h:|s >s life VVfY much ili flWB We* r-^ssed the gfeei L*ars—»trip| vd in -p- iioj r
mmt as n whaU! is 5trip|ierl of it* bluliber—tn
the wefii foeiit .ind vs-orked north tnvarrl t In
end of rhe Lime E-bitirt the Butl of Lewis,
We pa toed It n?1 il lhc pi'cal ?loni- rtreh- m
Calbmifih, sveund ojlL. In ^hiiiplii'npe airmmd
Brftain1
meealitbic oiotiUOMifili The siooei
-ire mtJL^h and u 1 1 1 ri tti ttj e* i j . imimmselv heawr >w*
They are eenh improve, parth ularly fromi I
' de distance, when the;-- -ecm to stand tike
ll n earth I \ inillLe- upon l heir low iTinund. But
whin ti meisl curiou* alioul the SU3M3 fh. ihcir
armm:ernonL for they stand in the form of acieis? wjth a ctfcte M its jure tune—that i* to
m ii Celiac cross. Vo* thex were -vi lie*
i'll H Ji yen "t- brJcnr ! be ' toss he i am e a symho I
>f l5iri.sL7^inn\ ipupt1 '
":
J 11)
The priietkal e.\plitriaUOEi may lie that
tourktr in the ftirm oi ;i cross auej a circle
all tax- rihyei x;ainri> of E.hc pn.iinrins of Che sun
and rnrHin ar^itind the year, io tbfti men wiili,-
««eM wriEii’ti alTEiiinaci: mi^FiE know the prunes
-iii 1 1 at I hr M-.vun- El -n, CallnnLh i simply
a prcaE stone caJeiidar
Ditn CatfovL siy, six rnilcy lip the curtsl n\d.*U
is (me ol the best pf^WOtl of Uie Picli-!
bretk*, a hr*>rh being a double ivoJEed
hMifT dating fmin Lliu fir^t in I hi- lourlh n-
lui'x i Iieu" niruur- "I'nrt/ and tltc.rr .in.- ilun-
al. oxer the Liam l- On r ,ib.:ni:
'Un 5 tht1'
T
btftorfle lhc home* nt the Lillie Be.opte^ andmiE^r \}*
m treated with respect
The Utile People—fairier brownie^, eK i-s,
w!ul! xx il! v.nii
—
tirr nrdher rymtilpoicrtt run
always malrvulrii^ and they >-;m In- uoi
amund by ll lii.-x-er morLtil. JEuI Pir\ h.ivi
LirKe ami dmwrous friends: their fa-in < loirs,
hm and hJaek, with hLi/iim ryes; and water
horse*. The^1 hi'l udulilt diark p-nobr fmtii
xvhn h they emerge in equine form so put -in-
aml injuie humou^, or in human iumi tu miswith and even marry them.
Norm, the hour at xx hicb hx'e hoe n* huni .i rlnway, h nnt a prmd lime for fairies, and
\v? \\ <-iv rL"i surpriserl ihnl ihcrc wm- nomabmit Bui i lu kniK that fairy bird+ialkdI run i on I on the tuocir, where cuckoos do pot
live. Ami when wr left t saw. * liau> irnr lu
gijkim Intcfc* a siwiped dark figure scomptr
ml fmm I hr base ni khe ciirh, reach nut an
arm iwice tut long as It^cli1
1" s^iac .* &&w Li nil i
Ij> 'li'. i tv k tin+1 retrieve-it, blealiiiH uni -imn
gliiiK, Into Hi bburk eml.u-ncc. Kch, xvell, I
llitnighLi evsrn Srxdl* and kelpies have grii t^i
eas I glajirtd b;uk nmr .uiain ami >lixx ihr
-hepherd prop his cm-nk iiHOJE.^t Ihr anrienl
Peering icjifl I he hold r : .« rni'ild i -hip, tii-lrnl- .il I j i -t -.t ! i I nht'UEe -n
Sifirnoxirjiv knm «i k'.ssaii m iqpdinu from t iipt jrjhn K ^lekimit (npitr rijihii
t^ raiWliiilly^ though m^Ti im-
' oifion^ the rnn^t home-Nrxiinn c*t people, I he'.
W^niriptlx piilf up imH> :i ji i 1 n-plitn! iheni m rhe hirthr-l Cliffs af I hr i^arlh
L. UUIH ^ ^
Looming like u petrified (nnK,t.
ihc megalith? of CalkitUh nn
Lett-H tfTijid nnh to -tfnnelierijge
nimonfl Britain' v micktu mnnumiint-
The cirri* J*f sbmir* u-n ii (jmlaMjIaL
iJittidLitiir inki E^t Uidi Hiflap rr :s\
hi1 a prehistoric calr^diir itr mny miu-k
flic site f>| n temple where rally i ‘eLU
wanhi^wd Bel, the Min ^Eirl JnM &&
the tfone^ have .survived, mi deci Celtic
l u.lt urc in L hi-- E^-lashfi 5tmruihqlrJ
wall and mark the lamb with coloml -Ivr.
Beyond the listhov^ jlihJ fields iind prov-
idem pear stacks of the west en&si rht? I i sT
•
Hdfctfd Bull m i^vvis, i hr iiorthwesEernmfi^L
comer of Britain. Ht-re the pubr of I he ocean
pnunds, tv01 un quie! days. The well* besl
the gnarled btefrock of the land with imm vu sc
unhurried violence, fall ins back with i mh-
tient sigh toW and strike attain
We ale above a caldron of cliffy where I hr
> did wa bailed. md felt the rhythmic ^hiidder
of Hie earth anid aar \Ve ^pfistd the * unffr t nl
land and sea that cvrr\ biand Es< a conflict
tliiU it. and its pcbplt! Wr Mi In
41c ner
\TERf AS A LIGHT rl.ANK Buvi us
^iHiih t.n Glasgow along the length ol the
Long Island, tny fiithcr tnuk out hi-
nralirl jcwj-N. and wto!** this:
JJT& ant-, the irenl importam e ol the West
cm Isles b mil 1m ihe iinderstiliidtntt of the
fMiSt—nflit Eu niyth + or to curikftitv, nr in* i he
traveler** iicti-— but Ti! out fives now We
tnhiihiL (wr do time hVr tn ill w rtatriunUinu
HtMielv w Hilda U CaUintf apart because it bL'ejisin^ Eu be .1 society and becoming .111 rrn-
ni'mkurniri^rm'nt htld together by u rormm
Ni' puve of lechnulnny li we to recover wur
live? wr must recover tfiir sen** of jwiei}
and hue, are wi r Hr reiMivtr our sense of wiciety
mifctt we have a mur h-tum:— an fjounjik 1 -
io ihoK\ mr wh;d a *mi lety would Lie in humanterms i f we were Em achieve it? The -ml 1
.
LnuelisomE I have .^eeii in thisrrntury v- here
ill I be n- islands.11
t hk lni>
In Search of
Man’s Past
at Lake RudolfBy RICHARD R. LEAKEY
AtJmt Hi At [ v c Director
j Ur IV.LES^njjJ Mu-tcum i cl kL'iv-.i
Pfintagrtiphx by GORDON If. GAHAS
I
S I' \fRXESS 1 mm-l rrcdli for the dramatn find in a camel—& tfifgfe ungainly beast Who had already wan my affection w il h bit
deep brown eyes. i called him GeorgeWe bad Sloped to re® h Kenya's frontier with Kthiapii by « Lm-k
,I >r
Meavt E|
m
QJid I, in our exploration Iasi August cit tliN , .1 virtually
trackless report ea^l of Lake Rudolf. it wjlS 1 he second season of Dur air-
vc> in learn the nature and nttefit n I the area's fossi) deposits
Hud we been [raveling ha the relative comfiirl nT a Land-Rover mdoubt we would have dismissed a small rocky nutcrop nwmr tw o mileseast of our course as not worth invcTdfclpitltag. Bui we were alrradv ilitpe
days' tiring march inland by camel from 1 «ur hast crimp at Koobi Foru,
on L&kc Rudolf's eastern shore, where wc hud left the rest of the expedi-d"tL lie urge wa- 1 rya
|
• ! irmnp noisily; he liar I nijTtcd me lar enough that
nd fran k I 1 wuknmrfl retk-l from his jnltiug gait11
Ll-La have 4 look at that exposure and make camp1
3 said. “Imiiherifii> to the borcfcrr won't matter, * Meave, a /ooU>gf&i >>0 our ospiditfooV
Stefft offered nn objection, nor did tbr mlier two members ol our camel
P^y X 1 1 r- Multviwn and KiLmnyu R:meu i foldout, rightj
Hie sir iiya :-] i- br nw n Irdgc *>i -tdirrimL-., sliced open by rent ones <u
crosdoti, proved far mors eaten hive than ii had first apjw-ared, As weapproached it, N^.ube and Kamova drilled oul in otir direction, Afcaurand I explored the other. Almost im mediately wt found fossils hwthleai bed liQnvs of ancient elephant pigs, and other animaU uf the late
Pliocene or early Hei-lorcne epochs, two to three mirtion years ntdIVe hobbled the c^pielv and made camp In die morning. after tea*
Pilgrimage into pridmtori: Carnrh rr% Iht 25r-ycoi-tM uiihor
Ic-k. And hL* party alurm L.iLr k u ded fin northern Kenya. Wilh Ridun]Leakey rim J fr Hft.we Epps aieGnlogitt with I he N.iUajuiiJ Mu -.cum
;u Nnitahu ftiul uLsslsikmt- Kaurov* Kurteu and Nzciln- VlutwhWLKspIerLsi^ a vttat desert cvfrt»n 106 brake h for motor vttbktes. the exp^r-
dllion|fir it uea^ for later afudfy Ii - remarkable dUcoverici in
dot# iwii %kuW% <r nm man * riixiil v Understood piul and w but tti ay 1 1 1 1
ih> rjidc^t known slutie ImF. lo^hiiaivd u-nie J.m milliuJi . s iir nitg
7li
"] i-mild iiurdly belJfcvV j|,1
^yite authtiF, fECHlIiOF fife iJLhcoi, it\ of
this skull of an Attstr&lnpiiAt^Hih
Tlit primitive creature^ with physical
chararterivlii:* nf bulb ±\w t±jn k RLRn,
lived fitiLJiif 2if mlHkm i e.in( .urn
Here i be is u II rest.1- HACtl) as lound
m .1 dry -ircum btiL explored by
infrequent ppfth -wtir-hitiR niin-
Hat rncu'ifc bones and vi oes£ stop
l\ik' iFMiiiLtn idL'uLtt'v it A± |i<-limftiug
Eli- une li!’ thr Inns'-EsiETiri ntur-mcn.
\ decidse ago4 nr Olduvou l.s-cir^ie
in Timtinliiu Rkliard Lejkcy'i
Irunr-rl |riironS5, .in l hro|'HiLr£rim .\hirv
a ni l 1
4
i ti (5 > H 1 .paltry. discovered
die uiity other nearly compltlit
-k .1! af rh:-» tjp* luiiirtt L the
| "" ic- /; uf
i,irr., ^i i^;, . hor ifi:
lod^y ^ IviitUt* kru^i ii dmfrdir*-
pitittir&u foflriW Ipiiae TJdi
ii n> p\<-i rot ns di r
r»'*:HPcai iv yH wwr tr™ <;» s n
wc > |
• I : L in.i to t>Lji|nre thu rest of the ftxirii*u:rr
[ was walking akm if I hi: dry bod of a small
itreitm that httd carved open ihe fossil -bearing
qtratn,when my liearE sudtlimlly leaped
'Mi jve '
1 -hijutedpM? sharply 1 itjiil -hi. ran
a Iru '’f.t.ips i j i ,i lmm.+,What is it—a snakL?"
I pointed f hiene nri the sand £0 feci -dirmh
tri full view be$kk a thorny bus In lay a domedsNiyj:-h- whitt 1 iibit-ri. Hii3fisr:i> in is i sat downstumiud. iiwredulp'iis, >iurinsz, bur yc-irs l Had
dreamed bl such -s pri^r. stud row I hid found
it—the nearly complete ski ill uf un early
ha mini d i above)
The hasty m^riaI crest atpp the >kulL
uijwthtr with enerttpous brow rirE^->. tljil
fare, am! small brain Wi; marked it dearly
a.*- it si .in&tmli*pilhfi:n& t a primitive tan j alike
creaLu re whose fragmented T. Tamili Eon-year-
old rermu^ had a|
m
hfen found eii Olduvai
Gorge in TSfprnitifi h\ my parent -
715
The snte 1 had found, intact oxix-pt for
teeth und lower jnw, etnmdy resembled the
Olduvai jijJCt’lmtit i if I it5tr*x(i>pithn rr hm w s,
formerly edited. Zlmfotiikr&pui boiatt. Mini:
1145 the first m L
i
l- ilisrcovered in Kenya, AndInter study would indicate (hat ir is perhaps
S50f000 year^ older Mian t(uji tkluvai ?kutJ!
,J
In The stmLli a! amrisEoiif and day be -ifli-
the frw^d J found a perfect partial CB*t of the
skull f3fom here; probably onh in recent
mtiMths. it had weathered and tumbled mul
Carefully wc phob^rapbed eve rvlhm k,
tmflt stone i luitls to mark the place, and
packed the ^kul! The four of u- hastened
hack to h4i*P i’amp m triumph
The iiuiSi-DrA fnihcx, Lirntfl anthfUEK'i«ioHf hepl* S &.
Lr4k^?, H-Ui tk-v.
1
liIj?.J tn? lul-lJ his adffj’i iLL^ie.'vrLt? iu
- [ i ndutiL - ht- Andlit l__ir Lie-e Mar, " N’a.tion al tiLO-
DKAIPIIK, SE|rtcFniwr I 'H&O; Vrupi
lirt^Man PiiaL' Ociubur LUb3,euIiJ
rtAJn tinurf: iaUnj
for Man Jtummy I^A 1
Tho fn.'dLbefL cranium t-. only one of ihe
aiihievertiiutts of two j^aspm of hard work in
this Largely unexpHired ^tun} deien uf Ken
yilts Eiistem Province Ckar team Ikh nko
found a lulkctirni of whai wre hctiL-vt- are Sbt
nlriii-i stone iuoLs* ever unearthed, and ii frag
merL!edT yet -incGraptele skull I b in pttizks and
esdie> me. fur it utiems mui h murr liumtfke
than itny aup^ciilopltheciK1
^.
Bui perhaps most sijmificantk, Wf liavr
traced the Outlines uf what may be the richest
Lind ivtur.T extensive P3 Eocene Pleistocene1 lns-m
regton known an nil Africa Here lie motL-
than a rhoiuWld square miU^ of iediment
pi!:-:-tl>ly e i^ uld as i'oux milium vi m i-t, luMfitLe
COUOltesi Ijmrcj of extinct ojufUJiK— Lkrui. wcpu-Vi know, iTeatures akin ro nian
Luke Kudotr. ^OTnc times called Site jitdci
^ca>” lies in the northern reaches of keav-,.1
in the GrtiiS Rifr system (nuips, brli 'W
In .i hut iurhiddnlii RicliilfiJ Leakey'- l V- \
jjeiHtiopl* crE-f-srru^ird. mtite eJ-SjJJ j. thullJliiBJtl SOUuTe itu lo ills MIC
j-afci* K;j i Loll near shr Imoler ^upinEieh tmi-kcfl u\
S rpwpiiV t .n if wvix frjTirH m A Ilia B^y pd Knob! Fiiru_
SUDAN.it:
ImV / f..
,AijnT'c -o^tliwriihi Irw *
tLUEV
PRDHHCt
A 1 Hi-
KfliA-
3
If flf
r epj'i-rfim/ii.
-
VnnSniir
.’ --- He
LampJ nd' fciilri L=*lP-tf I
%*iV<P4UWf| *
j
H UiT.
TMr-
I Mr »i-!
^it^EffWl
n .7 Ei It i
Fite uf stones miiTkk m pr11^-
ij-lriA iturlt siir for expedition
mem bcTj- t'yinc I he L ii-f Ruihijf jitcji. whrrr isruskin Uisjt:'.
Eg CfpSniUr §Tc#Jl wates -tretch nearly ]^
miles from north id r-outh, ,srcd ,S? milt?* at U*
wtde=i Thr lftko Lem* with fLsh and crncu
dites, and herds of Tuilinals li ve here, conic n-
al-me the almcisl unhdnabjTerl pastern
juiri northern ihufelines. where mul- and
camel - have tint dripped Che vji] nf venial trui
\t IcuU i , i ItIJ
i v i:ar -i _;
k
l 3w lavr l ul Rm Eo 5!
-ulm- JUU itrti Lli il. liV Lhjn liu!.i\ Onu;
ir iiHinecrtffd with the Nile, md even now it*
u, jEurs conf.nr Nile [n-r, h r-i -nir. : i r ,e*: m
jlig iftfj pounds anrl taqne fpptgc 7 2 1 1 But then
if shrank rha-iicidly, likt other Rifi Vitlley
hikes, (
h
1i’ tmp-^ as rtf malic ctuaJige .illemi Ehu
idjfcul.il] paLUrh[ft prehistoric titno. erofli quantities ci
a<h, and rttmcUffWS lava, erupted, from vnkrv-
nuri- -urr^undvnfi Lake Rudolf. The ash, i"
^tber with -ail and - mrt v, i-hed itstn the
Lake, built up thick scrJimfintiLn >I r \ i i
-
Thr rhninudih. tff tithe '-MjKjwiMi'il by ili*‘ N'p-
l ian.il llcifcirraiihiL Smicty. Leake
v
'a c ,« | U
i
braver] i hr thr©# or iinner! bandits to explore
thr-r tuttsmi- wind-swept [dim*
Hlnmi;er* nUIAM* ,i toum; Gatibm•i',.Mimari north ftf ftlflyjfcpdill h.Ii FUfcttf
tn l™ikc Rtliink. th*i rijM.-cHtlun hilifil
i-atfUeb irons hflt tribr
K^.^jun n in :>*nm iinn • pn,: v:p>:> r i'l *h
In Search of Man's Past
A.- the Jake level ruse and fi ll through
millennium* oftomm'iLi FkiftS bik) i urolan^d
drought, Layers uf silt infl chiv i n'cml till
ri-mniits i >i lakeside .hisml il--. i J Li if bum:*, ihii>
protected, fossi i z-ud The sediments :i5onp
RudnM -i-
1 C r r < shore arc lillrri'd \t ri ?;il
-niTu- n| them jjefhufrc .i_-. nliIa* ftsur
in Mi- , i i eLLf- Anri I w.l^ 'iin: that where I a rue
hen b. r>t Enimtil* lived, mini'- an AlOr- -th • ^
1 1 v 1
1
l
.
huntinp llitm for food
And Lhiiitni in essence, is why tfr Wttrfi ihvrc
Mvne Tool CunSnus Iliidtilf s Fromi^1
In i IWjT. T had been i -leader of .in anter-
nJtflnnBl LTK]iediiiun t" implore lb*! Onto \,l 1-
tey t north of Lake: Rudolf in -southwestern
('thiopLi Trams from \\n 1 nm-d Males and
Krii:icet LlKliJ nr- nun purty limn kenya. ft- erf
u;h en per miliar: by the Ethiopian i iovern
medi to investigate rich Pleistocene formu-
tions the lower re-ache* erf the OnmRi vcr. which drains into Uke Rudolf. Mygpuip I neater! atiimal fossil^ older than :nur
million rears .it the north end of rbe vnJlevT.
ntir sto-on proved quite wnrthwhik \Vr siLo
« i iltet <i t-i~L two rtmgarfiefjii -hull* uf ifttwo
They sUgpxst that, modem man'?
specie* mu> he u- ni.i I.' n j i>
i- -
• i
«
I
Nevertheless several inmaSE^stnt glimpsefrom the air had Eed me to suspect that even
richer izrnururt lay to ihe south, along thg
apicteni -in -in - n| [*akc Rudolf itself . TheAmerican party, lecl Profee^qr F* Clark
Ho\veI1 Eif the University of Chicago, nlJnwi.d
mil 1 to lea.se tis 3veilcopter for .1 brief i^irLie
dawn along tht Ethic pi Kenya fprimer
Wcf had flmvn forty nr so ml sitter over in-
f teas high firs and broken {emiin when I
<elei teil u promising luokin^ ridge erf strftti-
livd urdifment>
The IjeHeopter^ rutur had scarcely stnpjNfd
when 1 stooped t" pir s up a primitive stone
£i 11I—
; l L I n1
1
|n it- r ilLstimi b m ke TiUlpy 1 c 1 1 j 1 I in
the earliest level- ul fMrtuYjj limpe
With greater hope- than ever, m Fehninry
of 19WT approached the Commit tr- fbfr t-tv-
sojm'li and K\| 1 1 oration of the National Geo-
Kraphic Society To my delight, 1 was granted
funds inr :i prelim irnny tspioriidon of "East
Etiidmlt '
ill Ln llM *.
,
the area ah-ur t hi- lake'.*
nnrrheEtHttTTi shore
Ir would be a furmid ibh uridertitkllie The
terrain itself Wms forbidding—nightmufehly
bnoktrit, pairchH, spiWi'ly- mbabitpd- Wur^e,
the district fur >enr^ had been iioionou- for
tierce hands of armed raiders who preyed cmI
' ical livKiiKik herdi. The Kenya i emwitntprovided ;i platoon of polkij to escort uur
e^phtml iou part if-.
Ai ihe e' » 1
1
1 111 Mas TUE^, I U 11 .N;on-ln wail
five vehicles and two trailers. On] 1 party in
1 hided Dr I'iiul AlivlJ r pcufe^ir ul orgAbh
Arid sea of rww earlh asv
\
ik-^-
e(i JKftft) nfferf. lull. pT.ictffill
HrndHk trib^Tiiffn few tprrta
deH i«- match thai of ihe.ljtiikc-y
r.-sTiiv.cn iTOtanne tfi I-nfcc Ru-
rifljr Hi'imng *pear* and hunt
ma :tti 1. k^rtFie num.nl- seek vv .ti-
ter and gra^itig fc> r thc-tr iroab
and '.\tmfb. Ik,tk^ or old wi-cinoes jut jhox'c the htmiori
Han hies, bn n g I e 5, snd btent ^
:
\ TurkaEia eiN mllk^ .1 £0*1
ht'IrS by giipi <bng nta of lb Ill>
herween her own Hn ii hncf
-jiEe ifi]t wtrt ul I .',kx‘ R Up hi 1
1
—hIao railed the ‘JiicJe 1^eiin
-
—
expe#H9Ti nwm tiers mtl this
ileaerE dmrynmJd
lu-nii-r-n ;<i the Ujitomity ot Rhode Islam I.
John Harm-, a laterintuk^v t ink Fit from
BriH i >1, I
1' right rid; unci Ur Bernard Wuml,
wJm H.|h i t-j.di/<- j rt FinalomyAfter two And ll h all 1 av - 1
1
n it > ulumureached [he dusty little village of Lotacm-
jraJimi. where the mad cea^j in r^i-! [fere,
in the great Kudo I i hasin. We Were ^til I 1()0
iiuit- from our primary1 goal—an uniTihitbiicd
:p- *1 * -'ll 1 1 ii irm]i c a I led A11l i lia
.
Ltlinut h : 1 1 r-
w.s\ up Luki' Rudolfs eastern shore. Fur twomore days we imdinf iMmugh dry sEream
hods and iwsantl and mcky londACftyie The
ttftjier car fy \ nuri mr-nut board -pawe red Launch
hun.tr up lime mid i%nin U> wi: learned the
4dded manpower of ulii|
iLhiicL 1 est:oit
‘"Do you think the ttmts Will stand it?” Paul
Abel} asked anxiously jl> wr strujmkd tu
tT ids r them down on the meky Abo re ai Mini
Bay in the hire ni n kiretdnif sate Wind iuii
to bt- ou3‘ frequent i ninpaiimn here Hut
somehow our tents held,
1 h ll J :-.sme i Jay we hiid 1 £>u nd n issil ; cmti-aldcd in nearby sandr-ioin uur< nipping-remain* iinfkml hippos antelopes*
elephants, ami cither i-mitnah I ^nnn Found
my^lf in the ironic position rtf havim* in urce
my roi leagues uni in spend too much time
collect] HE specimens.kLWe've ut c in i nvrr tiun h gmiiJid a*
pn^iblc!.” I reminded them n^diu'lli,
Our iftAin object in j 96& to del ermine
t J i f uni is re uni I scope of Ehe sedimentary out
crop* We would merely -ajnpie ntssils from
drtTrreiit localities in order to draw rompari-
iom with other Afro an -am*
VhippifeiE Purlies ilApInrL hy Him!
Our mo t or vebi t:le$< We knew. w '' u 1 1 1 he
- re I’, hanilkuppod in this terrain And ex
ploring ;uu gnul riUtaficr nn foot Was nn
\w.4 - n i b
1
1 ‘, Wt r- imply coulrln'i ^ .n : enough
water tu cupe with desert hem that ufEuu,
exceeded 1 10 F_
For Jhc fir.^i hall of the gessgp our motor-
boat Wm the an-^er We made iru juent tripe
up /Had down Eht const and walked a* fiu ll-
10 niilcs inland,. making sketch map^ of
jw cj tj sy j l*.' i h-
[KifsH-and rs 1
? ll rut n ur To M 3i;i E iav
i!j l> Ei evening
After ajx w^eeks wc had readied the liniii:
it our e spin run nn by luur We wuuJd hiivp
no
irt shift diir camp Lu rc&dft too
distant from I In- *hure. We viewed 1 hi^ movi-
with mixed feelings.
"Crocodile- or niiL J tv ill mix- u *wm\ lifter
si, In il day ' *ajil Fflyl. Manv uF ihi& im-ttl
-y-
[
i Liles, some 10-foDtcrs. louiiilL’ akmu t!hu
lake vdjje, but they never molested us u liiU-
we bathed
SVmf of us would mi v- 1 In- sniAkry. however
Our camp at \tlte Hftv had proved to be ,i
Uvured ^.lihpring pi n r for c-irptft viper*.
Kefois carin&tm pvyuiuidiiM^ probably the
w i ir-r-ii'niptretJ venomous snake in Africa.
Vltboujih sinidl—iivrriigarik1 l ? nirhes or * in
IcApi h—they urr panlrukrly .1:
Jn weeks wp clubbed ur signed
more than fifty of them lii And around our
itjiiL§_ Fortunately no one was bitten nur-
roe the season. Bill tm two iMciwmri* Bob[’umphrlL assigned b> XArro^Ai. Cf.h-
(ikAFHtc 10 photo -.^rapti our netivftto, mir
rowh missed puLtin^ hi - blind on the deadfy
Frown reptiles near the efltmm r. to his tent
\\'e 1 l up filer .v.'C and camp 0 m i I us u Lu n I
at a little oasis named lieraTh ;i seldom
vi 50teil icroup •< I 10 v. v\\- ^altered through
j 21
] k-L in^ hurrmn intnider^ .3 -|-. keti
/a hr. 1 irpLuiitMB |.i.L'1 nrr llliTufth-rfalii^ in
sbfltiiiw* Rear the Kdotu Fom 1 -imp
prnwiirtL1 lion\ titlen itireaLeiinl the
c%pedstitiu cannula war mzh\ a pfidc
killed m rakrih tfc*s INan I b > rtff I- frnTii
tils1 jmthur'- Lent.
Foiiil- Limit- that Eame jjjioijI-
atupuiNieft in ihe Uurin rhrniiieh-iijE tlu.-
Htlsi urcnr E }Hn I i hr 1 r fire mt* >. em-
viticcd I he author I ha I nxati's thirty kin
1 1 1 1
j- 1 1 h;n 1 vF" lived And huEiiL'd htte
l.iiiriE sd rh<- Jade SelL, *i I -Si< |n iiind
Nik' perch nil ri -- vtilf rule that L.iki:
Rudolf qriLr was hnktrl with the NikK rvd.T i:H|iie K—kill ' i » 1
1
js!+ . 1 1 rM aru
i
Ci±f=i[j usd r ml Kdw*rd Kan hmii 1 1 nisi
I hi ptbt.r 1 _ l 1*
' h> the diei aTT»-7 r hr
[•riMb^hl -lifipliL-n i!.i AEliil Hj I In- tlil r
I.trm 1 1 ! i\ih. bill it« 1 r mi toiirt^s ili^-
I
I
cottmttrcLtJ|iloitat 10 11
V § .. L —^T*-f
-A
L
,<M
-sA IF*-
X lli
wj(i\ V T ynt
M
Lille nights, long days
T_l KEA51TKE& FHOM ]
alf L MKVAL SANDS jjnnnppt it Sjtftf -fl l^hl
-x->- Inn i hehiW at Kopfti I'Virrt in n shelter of ran
\ a* jtnd etjlmp lit Uv LcroMiiw Lrmtefftt, the aiilW .uirt
Ur, Eppta rjciLmsTir chr itfttrtitepitiH'ttn; skull, rifiHit
1 mlif. \ nearby I ray o\]in mate boWtH bolds .1 --eronrl
- L 1.1 1 ! found by Jill Li^>i^LanL 5r
Iwoti^c3ft Muftka. Hr. PaulAbell gif ihr f mivarsity of Uliode Idnnd: .trni Lei* key *
dppUll li1
.'5
1
Icf K-iliMhyn KJoieu e-ulak^iir stuimjil \i^,\\y
Al llie llfivr end ill the Lnblr, teeth from Mitphua rtfki.
an eltp£u&n| Ehiii is^ffl ‘ V , million year* r, Lil- halt-
frarmftd \*\ fihi1 anlmul'i fivt-focrt iu>k
Wim litfhl nl'dawn Eifvdi the \nmr hiUr resiimtna study,
suiting aiid him ir fnghn As ihe i-spediiirm ci^Jcj^rj
ihi 1 rcKKHH Iwwih within sigh! Uy m -neb iHoid;iiit.c
I hill Lhe iiLill •. • r hud Eli fe.-Lman his noOraglic* Wtn i. ui-
7*1 tiding nmi many lu-fi the moping Sidfer-
a smitll forest of stoutly dnumpalms. \\i
j1
1
: s- i| nur Lem- in 11
glade aUToun ieiJ b> tfeu' swnyiiig
Lriw 1'bi.Ti1 was -t stark beauty
about the \A\b. e, -urrounilntl *i- ii
w its by rugged vok Link [M.-ak>
that subtly l liLriKi-i | ciders a.’ r'!n:
sun moved a^rat* t ti t -kv Here
we spent 51 x more weeks, ex pin f-
iuy whrrtiprutsibleby 1 and- Rover,
iinii pushing beyond on foot
B> themictei itji'iir-t season wl-
had found exposed ^edimcUtary
cfepMtS akn| the ^rutem shore of
Lak e Rudolf m rT .i n a ren 1 1 \ m-. ire
UiaO 1,1101.1 vqiiajT m&t^ I 11 I h rr't-
monil 1§ wl' S 1ad Irav ersnd it scvendtime? rind hud lucjitud darens os
sites rti which Umtl- abntmcL
Compel: Mir our Ifii wfth thaw from
• mJirr African sites Thai haw been dialed wec.in say rhal nuf ear litm fossil evidence —
rCTifuUtts of tfxtlnet pi£* a.nd elephants—is
prohaliK uhiMn hint miHjim years old, Most
nf tht: fn-.-H- ;i|
.1 j..hc j.r to be uider ih.jn 1 ho-te
from the lowest level? fU OMuvai t jt>ru:e
fcfcrt ebbing out nur J*e^son t three
mrfnbfjs nf my ^tnif — Kitmtiva, Miiihc, and
'i 1 tv on gekt V] uok ,i
—
eti 1
1
1L- m 1
1
. l .it i and I iii i
i,ili r d^u, discoveries: Each found jaw frag-
JMttis o3 Ltu r-
1
~lIlI|
i 3 lid kuMl Although poorly
flrffeitTYrd . t hese i rafjnienEs indie at ml in mt!|i,ir mair-man had lived along the
share nf Rudolf hot wean iwn ;att>l thr^ million
ymr- hgp—-in lBkiin i-Tit -
J'luisl nv lime-
Further work, I fell certain, would turn up
additional rvuterive di mail^ ancestry* Jiiul ufi
itns hajU* I reported to tilt Sue
i
cm y fd the rEirl oc
i%S ii£om*us}> M responded with support
for tnoiliiT expedition to Etui Rudolf in
i'iT.'r A contribution from the OTllfaun HDtinm-f Fottnddioo. Ifit* ot .Vcw York City,
cnflhled us Ip incorporate Tmpori.u-il aerial
mapping of the Rudolf arta into our plans
Wi 1
?c\ -hie -igsuu hfif Lakt: Rudolf in Ian
M^j heading fnr a new bu® amp at
Kutibi Fora—u n haHow rove sheltered by A
long windy Spit some twenty mills north >[
AI|ia Bay imap, page 7 I h i.
The pbubiian "f getting abuui to tins ru^diiiiimry during our lirst held season had led
ttu M consider another tnrjms of transpor-
tation ramtsb We hired them—four riding
[uumai, Wirt eight pack heists—near the out
post of M i rt.ii I iii iLiEiuhi? the viJlcij^s of the
Gabbra pfripJe (page
As dining the previous yn."s«4rrthe bandits 77.1
T1’K|i"H*| M . nrn iLtap >».,iii>. MHLH-i • , hiiah {[ «i i
ClesuiHiLT prcrhisrcuir mnlur^ of the
ancient ricplmoL UfapHm rc(.kt w ei-
pwlstloti mettiiirns rri ake LipfLliminiiry
idcEsliJitiilann m L hi- field U<m Skpjuel,
:j I'riuliintc- -.iinii. rti nl Ppriti K-jmin
>rMe Umvirstty chipe- hi el^c-
hattfejircj mmJjuscel] w M li a kriifr.-,
] Ijirv.irrl ^idii.ilr slijdtrtLl Rjii
pic$u ifcrc ridgcrl
ctow ui with n tiiuujt Slit orfiitafi
mil a rjc<jlui2 n:,il wrVty eif thr ['^it
Kudfttk' btcsl that was esMiuml in
iHrimatjnu Eta* ajits oi by the
>ir.tM in a hkh they wore feckLEml
ni Africa iLorly i 'ir; L--i. irvi:v
msimurtb have ^imwd in similar
farm to the present day— ItidLLdlitc
rbirwi^i pjp, |i,i?j<nin- imStlijppu-,
ami di1 phalli-
r l[ld. ill’ll U I
who frequent thr northern frinilitT left u?
aloer, we w-eni without judur- escort r n 1969.
again joined il< with his Ifj-veaf*
old daughter nu ^ai
Meavc Epps, of iht Naum ml
M Lh-eum in Niiandii.jml 1 p kuim ]
to continue thr e^loratiutf of fK-
I
ic-c’i i sediments KjunoyjL, nudeputy expedition leader, wouldassisi isf, alen£ with N/ubf nil^ ! tv*ihjte fa I
+
hi'-Se i h ree, although
linking tiirciuil tndiiloi^iir^iiinnhg
the ftitM skilled held pafamUolu-
iii-ts T hav e known.
KiiA - gL'dngy procram wasfttudamenLiJ *n up r uflitr work.,
fur frissib crilletled frntn
whose griih^od stony ^ not fully
documented lose rstucli u l then
v jitur us study Bnaiernil
from specimens inllerteiE flu? previous
year, 1 had estimated the age of most of theBut often iii mghl wti had Lo j^rsuarlr Boils
nut to eat nut pterion- tranriporl animal*,
usually b> firing urifh: into the rnr of bv toss
iu|? out a Hthum1iTTliL>b"—a loud fireemcker.
By the second week m June our tump hudhiSL-.ni -l'L Lap i in Hu- gm^y lakeside- pkun i
Knobl f tjil and wc IhmI clrawl mi airstrip
tu link us quickly wjrl Nairobi
Our u-iotis set tu work promptly. The pri
mary objective was a preliminary trutugitaj
purvey \A Bast Kudo I f, headed hy Kjjv Beh-mtsmeytr, .i cheery indefatigable Lrrjtimtt
vIlnIl-liL in wcalngy .it Harvard tfeivcrdly
I.kinald Siegel, who is stud y i tip for his master'*
ritj^ret m p i.dogy >:L Fenlisy] varna >Litir l m-vtrsity, was hear L^sisTam [ above) Paul Abdl
l£jisi Rudolf Lipfls ni Ftsonr 'him iwu million
vrats 1 Ikluvai in i% i
hi, ^+- my
pttrtnL- I inv f l.ioCFti working since ha>
yielded u. vast tQlluctinii «?f nnifui U? tinted at
] "s inI <5 msllron year*: These itmu- 1 n 1
1
« lie
merits* to mv mind, show a degree of soplu^u
r lEi- ip w ii ch i r5 l] 1 1 Its 1 hat « us r xiru esiur began
making tbdJl well before that limr J: n, I Micertain we would bud them at East Km Ini I
“U you don't find something where you
think if -
1
1 r n i td Im ifiin'l Etisume iWm n s noc
l lie re," my parent.-. Iiarl laughl mrs-Uire i hild-
hi«ad.H Mi>re likely vou'rr simply not lookliig
Lucrd enuu^hl11
I uni* deiermtiicd lhal wti
should look liurdur
E hafl fluwn down to Hairobi inr several
724
lit Search ot Man'.- Past
tbiv- l-j .tlCtMi.it lm Tnr.i-i.'um rri;iiit-r- unduttrmreturn | n ]% ml 'I 1 1 ii'.i, tUiv rushed up ail
b
druniat ii . if cryptic, firmslfVim wire rnih\—lhc\ do exist, and
Itlllv1 1hem r o si t tt /‘ -1
1* sa i d estil rd I >
“ V\ I e;i [-
mote, thenA g»ad i 1
1
a I directly on the site1
'
\\v leaped mtu l hi- Land-Rover and1 jounced LiJtinL^ chi nmvh ir.i^k m her riU-
tSbfvery My fcKCitemetit quickly turned to
datiun. Even on the basis of 3 first quick ii iok
1 felt sure Kay hud (inim) Xatoh—choppers
and sharptcdgcd Hoke* id' basalt. chipped b>
JiiUtd jn .i dim* libiitnl past The flake*- had
eroded fmm i. ) i
L
a Saif 44 a low. barren km.il
I
one- ^Lill lay nmteddud in a tlepoaEl nf gTft>
volcanic adi-—the uilT" over tfJiK'h
Kiy twirl t if-t: f i >o exultant
The precept of 'huik ujptm il you dmi'l Emdl
ii i h I? lifiit i ri i i-r
‘
’ 1 1, id proved lLstJJ VW *Uhu1
less Lhari 400 yards from a hollow whurc* the
-.ir before, we baij di^Vttted a number of
wcff-pregervtfl fossil hippos 1
TesU Establish Age n>f Finds
The 1 -ji 1 that I
1
In' Ellul* a el'i1 I'JLlbn 1
' KU:(L Ml
i urT u>- ,i v of tite uin i ost i mpem u nc e ft it \ I
conic atMalN riL i i provide muieiitts suitable
f nr dating by camples laboratory technique
Kayand her team selected samples 1 r> I ic flow n
U> the VmvTfMi^ ol t ajnbrhlpe fur dating by
lit J A Miller and hi> adkague Ur 1 f
lltdl uf Birkbi'Ck Culh^r in London\\ ink aw ; Li tine their report, wr began an
exploratory trench Irrt 11 the luff page 7 2% "
rhe Mir ri fi^n mlly yielded 6r specitnens
mot chopping Li mb. numrrniH flatkes, and u
doirn-ndd animal huELi>. principally antdop?remain*, th.ru muiv Ilivc been cracked upon
pi extract tbe nirurt^v.
l-.To ttement reienecl in j .unp when a pre
liminnry rcjn-rt ranit-b^ k fronwllir t nlvt-r^ftv
ol Cambridge. Our iuw.il* were u imnlmum of
2.4 million years oldl The pbsjne ih.i,i 1 1 rinigcht
this new? afen deli vered so:ne frosli Kcn.va
MnuvhrrrEe? \\A~ im>kc mil ,i bottle nf wine
;:uipi timed in sArmptuous cclcfvrattoh
Thu au 1 1 -ir- nl i.h^repurt luivt- since v isited
iLu' tfMi) die at Elicit Rudolf and, after tfriinlLlf-
uve tests of odditkinjJ luff ^imple.s, have
established a rmirr alci unite bite of very
rlr^e to J.o million war?, plus or mtnu*
less than JhOsiK.WJ v«ac» Thu.^ if further stuAy
verifies that Ua^, mdted. arc tool^, we will
have pushed back the (uirhrcm of tlJLr ear-
licpt I ui 3 1- nuflJu+r Mime ^^OjjL'O years bcyi ji " I
tbe uldf.Nl prrvioasJy known—at OlduvmW'ork prnicnes-H.'d well fhrfottgh July and
jm ii Anmifit. k.i "s icura tOntinucil mapptnu
straliL, jiirl fossil hunters found inlerevlkta
^pedmepKi rdmost dnily Abril unc daybrought in .i 1 1 fiiutif li! jiiwbnne ui u Lr'ri'i'pi-
thr* ETumkry bcl vvi^n two and thrcumfflloh
s r'xirv old the first of Its kind fuumd fcn Eit^l
AJfka She Was awarded a botllt uf wine
A new member joiited the exptiljtitm::
I it>by Xcsbo EvUtis, a ioology sludent fnom(. JllilirtdKe. whrjse -|, tiTjlJ jlii>-i i--l J;- Utfihnrs-
4miy—the study ul what ltap]«fnsEonr^Eimsms
.l ft F>r deaf 1 1 K n uw k d jze of bfW ' ujc asses are
m li tL’fi'd and !• Lined >and huw th v> deteriorate
ll iii I fosMli^-, t-' poitjculiiri}' useful lo paleon
lolopi&b
Ubby stukeil mit ter province li few hun-
drvd yjirilsirum^ amp, for Ktpobi h ranbulinds
in Lome, including Iipi3^ hyetiii.?. it hi I i. fiwo-
4]li*s, and tmimjil K ] E I occur trequ enlly Herstudy arm, with its odd emp "i mc L
ticii|dixriy
mituhered lionet prumptly rkthbed^Uh-
byX Cal 1 1 i.L^c Patch ” A handsome wild topi. It
hir EC me rnher i > L the .t
1
1 telojx family . t"ormed
,:.l ihuritius Littachmerit to her. and il wjl- r i
chnrmiaE ?aehr lo wnLch the iTKHJOtmd ammaJfollow her :ii- Ait* w • h kt-fl tesjde the lake
Wiy^riif \\ i)rjirj» 3 ;ikt: *- Fljiur* m (.imj)
i lur expedition's t&phociumist mi^Lil wtH
have ciKoducted her bone count even closer pi
camp. (.Ire wmdy m^Ln [ nwoke t$ a brief
comtnniinn outside. but ^ruriir. human voices
wcfifc imulvi-il, t went li.ick In sli^ep Arinin a
Ljcfure dzrwtl, I fan ml iht turn tan -of a
zebrii- killed bv lions, lc-^ than 3 5 yards frurri
ttiv lent t '(-i m i jLitniionine. 3 fnund lliatsevi r-
al LFcij|ik- hail wralkcd by dnnnii the isiilit,
totally tmiwam hiJ ihr drasika.
l^k>i hiL> nflcn prowled annmd t hi f tborhbu.sh
hwmtt ihtd fenced Li a uar liimeUat nlghc Oni • u i irKplurjit'.Ty trip? a-detennineLl lion could
e&Mk 1 tv.' c,ckvti Ii a -i pick of our trans|Hi[r
I pun nutkm ^ h amp for the ihgbT we herded
die came Is iukvIIut atid tJed up one fatefeg
nfi L'iji h, liM.arb teElK-rin^ .ink Jr tu knee lo
discuaraire wanderimi VVr then bedded downat strtil LTn points h round the herd In ihcmy1
1
ei i
1 ui us l oulri then head iliein - id dunuld .i
staJkintr linn laum h a stain pc dt
The iliL'ur>\ l rep-f-t to -.i1
. . broke il"-wii-
t >nr nL|tht S awoke suddenly in I'ltm! a henlot
*l]r«t -lecee-rl ceuucIs bcaHunt down on nn til
plienuimcnal speed To Avofttbcing trampled.
I Minis: nil m> blanket anti took In my heels.
rnrt.unalfU jhe liL-taU quickly cLAme In a Jut It
—planished, no doubt tat the bipcclaclc of
ti htuttitfl leading them in flight!
\\r traveled on the^e ri-nirin^&ancu trips
with Sp&rtun simplicity ui nrder to cover as
nuirh terrilon m possible We mse aE dawn,4Jir( pt cup of tea jaifficed foV breakfast AicnidcUt> Vp
1'.' slopped to rnasi .l few pHlalm -
and chew a Cflupk tA .si of stilt-dried
antelope mtatI t was lure in Lht* Huy un one such nek that
nu Owtl triminl, Lipnrpi-r, tagjitl rum plaining
and we mode tlir fjiiofiil rJedsitm not E.t> j iurih
at i to 1 1 1 f 3\i hiopmii frontier, bni miter In
make camp and mvisiiuatr that frisigriEfii'&nt-
726 - k 1 1 i ej mctiTU|i off to I he east. Ollt reward.
was the moptgtiiFitfm AustttUtipfthrtu's ^kul]
I hat sent Ur racang back i n Koobs Fora,
“Thai took* like nothing I've ever seen fn
this wurliL Paul -aid when he spot led s> mrdistant figures on camel* loping in towardcam 1 1 "Dun, mtaybe we’d better gj^i t lit ^yu
' r
Kay told us Lhesipry later We hadn't been
Expected back For another week, hml l sup-pose there wi' 1 1 main raffish look about u*3 lie turEiuns vve hjid irnpmi^rd Ex ivabd ufT
the desert sun wildly about our Infills
,
and the approach of any stmJigemm this areawas cause for sikirm.
Among the first to termini ze us was mynfcoEhtif whsi had flown up from t'JJituvai lu
remind the artifacts from mir tool y\ic.
After an ex[cited cxchiiri&o of greetings, I
lifted the precious skid I from h£ packSTUi bi*.v
pend can: fully removed it > paper and § beep-
skin wrapping*
Akithei guzed at i! quietly, Perhaps die
Wft> tbijlJtlttg back to her fust itfimpKc nt two
bu I'd Imtmriid pifcmotorM'mtaerJdedm a bank
IU OlrLtivni. It had laker 19 day- m «I
i :\w
dinging and siflinp to recover more than 4UD
-rtapn *'i ^ '-- ili.'.cd liiMir, -*he arid my flrfhor
hud lbm worked padeptly lor !£ month# as-
sembling and recim^m'tmi* the fraftmeriL?
Hilo the tir-=t Ansirahptttifuo bmsd cmtijitri
ever Fnunri ijtajie 130), Arid here I was* bold-
injj ill altttptil identical skid)—ccrnddemlily
nlitei ukrmst inbid at>d tumbled ;hm-- -m
apK-n ground i?u1 of ^th^r luck.
"JtV beautiful. Richard.~ my moihiT said
.UiMiluicly TnaKrElM 'cntV1 Then it un urnui
Im in c ihijl E hud made my rind i< y^Lir- after
hers aloiij-t Ube r Lay
i >ur party kir-t iu- time in urLtini! b-i-'k
in ilu- skit) I site—n frQ-mik trip—with n
rieve, in fbc hope of recovering ft tew frati-
merts nf Vhf lueth nr lower jaw frotn
the tie posits Hut run hr hi: more Wita sound
]i ul ibis |im jiitl no our l:>;| njrliiiun that
1 had our otiJy entUUntiT with odur irf l he
aimed bnmlb that r.,im Hits desolate rcgiDfi
iKarihe kihsonipjl frontier White E wa.s lend
mu lw<- nf our aim el- Err a #l»li-r linlr nhmil
five miles from rinmp, a taipe burii ahead ird-
denli seemed t" explode with [Miopte Dark,
wiry* and clad in loitn lui.li>. ihcy carried
knives* .^pear? H and rifle? t counted IS men
iiHiia > i< >
U .iti r hn-.jk "ii * umethiich .l-*'- "It I h t-i I!
Khk who \\i riis - ,in Imfirnyi -i d bt|ttiCnji>-L ajnsitiai
llae lltf V heal Tin cxpHiticiFi had rrly an
ramtbv huce ttiemliir-. mi i- •I • I iwt Him*-
|>nn rruitlgh liquid L4_i.tr I .sr- ma i yia^ c^plufiiEiutia.
Tpnlh JS n £ j tempts r * ? 1 1 nw i !- a* Lrl 1 1 - up 1 1 nft F Ii i-
iLiihor trie* to rc-irjjn j, i-juid resifitniu miirau
leur handled hv tiao?uya. A Siaiky rmitmi. bred
frEin ^1 rlay ’ JHiih H ikittJ F hm va\ a -Inp llmi Et;d hi
the en^dtULin's ni> i*t iltjinalk linil
1 iini iif u pi r/rf 1 1 suit ' * the au [hi jr mvd ft / 1 1 br M u i wj w a
whri pfeD r-niif Llicr lha shattered cjramum uf whai Richard
IjM.hSf WbWI Wm bt h form of early rums h iny with -i |i
mehta and fos^iJ fiului similar iu l Imw In the tool sirala
bokiw) 1 scwit 4j f miles to l lie ^uuLh Themeh Fate jjid jaw -
II'* mih-ing. till- nitvaliirr and s plume of Um rnmiiim will
pnrt'ide DVidettre ±V_it rvrnlii.i! rMun^tmtiinn m this -kuH
C lii |;3 off 40 1
1
Id. add bluet; A rock flake ptrhujH left hv n
prehistoric tanker j[eU 4 protective coaling of |>Ja_hlJt be-fore it- removal from volcaijlc llsIi f I nr of anr rotors
have equalled Iiefr lo mak? j,n lmf;!tittktnl with whichhit coidrf nil meal frum animal atfcas^esL:
718
fill mi: miner* pruUo m i
like mu) ai dUfrjfCfU depths
I ten- ! rmle northern.- L or
kinjb* |-'i>M. Kav lh-hr''ii-
mtyur found whaj tin- uul ln.it
irlriuilic* as crude Lulling
xtle! rhoppmjf EjhiIa oFii.i-oli
'
t heir bed < >i v 1
1
1aim- t^sl 1
Wily cLitlrd: hv sin ftrgttn
L* r
h
1 Ufjl ir, which
mt&stnra n*tfionrtjv e dinnErrii iletertniuc ihr nil
h'oLlilil a! -tr -.1 L^bcsralOl
1JWts showed Thai tile lijota
Wert I Ml tied wur.e J! fi million
^‘etu> ago, HSft.tiOQ year-
ln-lore limn at Oldwvai
tht‘ a. nui r it i toll low ridge, where (hey stupjH’d
[ii watch me The\ had bee* noting in iht-
-h ; uh hI n d vv *' h had E n kcn ear S i other t irmpkite
jy by surprise.
Setter ul uf them raised Lheir trifles I kL (hem.
=et m\ i-wn- and rue: alt} lingered the Iwomu rads of attiimmltiim hi my packet. Therew ns ! i s 1
1
1 tii do hut |im » t f ft w ith nr. to ui-i n l-
.I-, though totally untotttrmvei
The ftnu^r^ followed me to the water
bole n Iwav* ai a tfiSianet , ind tv ittc la i-d it> T
filled the wafer tins. Theta rlsey follow nJ
Few miles back toward ramp before dropping
off rnj l rail I never saw Uu-tn again
The folEomnu day was even toore eventful
Wfc - 1 1 1 i i ihr nuirmriu, exploring the . . i
around the skull Tv I
r
t ivfiimui fri$sHs thsit
might prove useful an ilntiu^ ibt- rkpcBjUs, in
olie age liek'rniimitriHEi U> nlber methods
i-hmild fail- Weave ami I chose onu . i uuo,
X/uhe and ^Iwongeia another
Shortly, Mravc tallied r>« rae, pleased and
esdlcd “UiL-liiird. cmiiii‘ have a liH-?k'‘
S Ii l' Unci discovered the broken -.kuJS mad
raw of a oilier- Loiitacd cal—mu' os the iinr-if
specimens ivei found in East Vfrka. Lr
aider a
ta >111 rife Sjun wc ' UtKtid thi pieces and re-
treaied in the lacework shade oi a toornhash
to ht Ihem iope j her
We had almost Jimtoed tot |oh when 3
in iird Nzube and Mwomrebi n^uminji. chat
tori&f and toughing They bounced over n
—” NF' __
1 jl
_ _
IjB, 1
-
Mystery skull (rights nmy be closer to
num‘- direeL aim-airy, >iiys Uir miLhot. limp
l In? nj.5i!rj.lii|itl]iei piu-.s He tuijie* tbii. ’.‘cllT LO
unearth other fragment* which will permit npenn-
-Lructivn The frfnJ iigit h-.n *h-.- bark
Liarly brandies
on a
family tree
STRIKING SIMILAR tt'l E3 esfct be-
tween Richiirti'- dls£nven (be-
low, left 1 and li|r ikuSi hm pLurtLi.s
Jiiunrl al O^uVai tlefli, fiJtboa^b
the i-r<i%nrrcs lived thousands o|
M\Lr- .Liiti hundred- nf mih— &pari
Rifiimrd'-, ujHrirtTiu,n maypri ri =<t'
hi- juurnK hy -ume .1 - h: venr>.
bill hr believes (liiil, dti|iilr -'.-me
diiTm-fices, both wor A$iitjufa-r
phhfi iii /iitTrrr. Ll'*? than five feel
t.ill, with bulgtn* bmw> and Imw
forehead lurlis* jav H Matte me,- n
onciptiati ui Lhc ? UduvJJ nrcar-
uum. jlMJVBfr the^- iwjMura (pen--
h»s«I powerfu] js&ws, bruiais only
d ijah" v- Lamer than those ^ 1 1 I in
aVrnifir^R cord hi. -ind millatm
twice tin width of modi1
rri mim'iAnlhropolirp-L- rtb&iiPTfe on Ihr
role AuitmlupiihraiH^ pte^cd in
die 't(?ry i f man. Miftry think they
Vnere primarily veertfl-nans. s«IHf
nr whom died 00 1 ^ dJitiatic
1 ImriLH- dried up fond whde ulheniurvivi-'i by b» rnTnmpr I oo3-rn fibers
and titjriiL-r^ The pul hut Hirurirte-
Sktc MirtridttpilhecLne* tear bed upc-hoLflliorLary "ckfcfj end,' while .1
«. opttTnporrtn ,1 s*peds^ of Homo>u|jf*leNleldc4 li hr d Let with meal
by maid iff anrl using- .L ti'Joe tonL-.
hurting 1heir knowledge. tte Lsokey uml hit 2&U Mutfy the Msit skull of 41 nmnkrv .The elder
Lakey Ml- 1* to I hi1 K^ohi Fata utmif t*\ 1 .h>i p v i- his wn'r j>ti>^resi ami to *er ihp mw find*.
rid^e wenn ri lj hi fmd _m tis,
r 1 1 n I
i
vhH 1-
1* I h*--
s-icJpii> noun 3it!i.ii l Htrode mil in meet Ihem
"Another iMunSflirt skull f” t shunted to
Meavt’, and we all bepnui r^anlnlrin Mwungala's discovery l li pf.n ‘si £ i' afld page 7 .'HI,
found from a low 1 1 lull I' was in
fnij^fn tills: three major ptetc* and several
-mailer r mi^v fhe fart and iaw- wm mi---
inp, tiul Ole rest of the * nidlim bore Few of
the fharfiffleristic^ of an mistai lOpithedirfr
3 felt, with mount i n rw i terne nt . that a >tntrr h
tor addiui-nal frajpoenls am! furthn stud\
mm hi show this to br tv neur-mnn , b til per-
haps iL'Vun a -preii'- nt the yeou- firm**
When Mwunpli led u.- lb the site of Hhfossil discovery. 3 e- sure from the ^Iojh- and
[he >: rn.-iinn - lhal \\r wm I-; In .
1
1 K- I j
•
lira I additional fragment—hut. unfurl unaU'
0 . not In l% r) II would require si Hiajoi «Ka-
viilDon. jud 1 at 1 Lame had all but nm nut.
\ iter[kj
r to mi 1 n Lr a sieving uj h*mu cm at t h l-
-in\ we loaded our eiutiel> imd trekked ban I-.
u - hi,-.,- < iunp The cJasinirday^ uf any rJtjxsdi 1
1 ton 1 li 1 almas'! hi"cik r and tin end of August
iii Koolii 11 u
r
;
l
was no exception jipedtuens
had tn he prepared for *hip merit, field miles
completed,
pin it 1 iur»p
1 h> t often
When til? Others had departed, l remained
behind with a few eF our stuff to tlose down
the Lamp, These few days- of relative calm
piAve me an opportunity. when Thu lAte af-
ternoon sun burnished the surf&ie of Lake
731
Rudoll, i>i| Kiftrjrf itur Iwm -HiM_*nrii o! iv: ark
\\ itb Kay SfrJireiiMJlet l'iA- wi'tlSjfawp
>tratitfNi|ihii -tactions, wt cuuti l Erntuiivd.
correlate the strain at ihf fool site wiLh tin:
lwo skull sites to the north (map* page 71
Fossil fauna at all Ihrtje sites ameii with this
camtliitiorL Ruth -Mills nppfcijjrci! to fcnmr:
From horizons below the accurately datedtooFsitr LufT Thu:* these honihiids wurc very
likely .minimum of £6 million years oldThere were gut tool.-, the m 1 1 1 est ever found.
Who had made th^m? \oi
b&tifi, I full
While the first skull found by uyr £kpe^di? inn displays certain differences from the
l Mduviu JW mmpt these. I ^
n
j-r. i arc minor
KwJ.ilf hLinEQ at liit- -aoie timt. one inv living
a more tutelllgeni ^ reaUife, ijcrhap- of the
iSentis Hum**?
[ l iftiuve lIliiL ?U.ch LL SlLlhilJCiti e&tgfcrd ill
nt | u v at 1 1 3 millnm >
i
! a r<- a eq . Im r!ru/op:rhf -
nu Wtei Sue 1 1 there thru So did HomotwMth> a mnre advanced r fen tune dis-rovered
in IflifeO at Uldin.u W( now' credit //» •.• •
with ii.njL making ability
Was Htimo hubHis making tools at EastRiidotf .S5d,iKJf) year< before he hunted gameat Oldm ai* If 50, we have not found him, (nr
l-
I I'd I hr skull ill-, iiviifitd 1 1 , Mwonnela lienr^
Midi. resemblance En shai nf H^mu htfbilix
I'rrhups an answer may he vriLh -till ari-
c K her early rrs \m— //i> ftvtfat -whtfse
if il * 44UA* *i ii
111 d jJiiinmmiii; twd i lihl,
esipedidon rncmltirf* tchi% mii In - edge of l.ukr Rudolf iftv r
a day in thr fteiri T'iis*" Abell
diiUfiSiLrf uf ^rirrUBE Paul
UjiJL, Ltito_L K_jy Rchrfii:
tnevrr t Inns Trea^e*. u hilt
Siyj^ci itruna hia lUiitar
Sim sinkv mu „i gLraflr v^ln—h ii diijrcd Lake Rticlud Willi
iruji' i arty mre .tor> Lor Jin: I
in ihr rodt> al Ihji nrmrH
r
basin, iitr h e-mink! it mliirhoamj rmuiin- help n^irlerrt
man ptpee tout'd in a pirtUr-p
of iIk- w i *fId nf hk prehjtforH
fur eH re-JU
eoiiy^L for il to ht clisslfietl ^ ihc samespecies, though it ^ likely lo he some .
VF-an iddiT Teeth lijm! mu ffaRiTieiits fpiitid
by tJw French and Lf S. itjim.n to the Ujiin
Valley i onfirmed that ihe^a near-men werean. established urn up more than 1.6 million
m 'ars liuo
This lark nl i hinge river such a hum |iern>rJ
indicates very deor|>. E think, thai rhesti
ermturers hud rrached an ia vn|iitjntiar> “th'-id
end.1
' SunJi fat lure Co t^'nlvT ivGLLld nut, to inr,
seem characteristic ot an iutcThuum tool
m a kf r h un I :r r n ; o r u , 1 h frnn fci pUhrt a s h j, - j
ll tEtin.-.vL^i- jaw iind hupe wrindicig-
leidh, imjihini! ihm he had uduiitrd in suit apredomitLiitily vegetarian diet He wmikthave had little ill-l-hJ lo ilrvlsr uuning too]*
1f lie WM5. n i >T mi r Uk I -it] akt* r , w In i. I fie n ?
Was there a rotstL i iT][H>TiiFy lineo olvmg in the
luivu been found i±\ Olduvai (korizr
us well 03 near Peking ami in Java The ear-
I lest specimen is abou t I mil u mi 1 1 ion yeur.-
old. ihii he is q ail e distinct from btii±Kj I<- itdu-
viiiV othc r facim of1
1 r i m i e i ve m an h sugge>ti i . j
in mi 1 that tin. Homo nr .; tui, Uni-a^r had beenevolving fur a ve™ luuc time pHfrtiajiS at
leasj as long a as .d
« mdimn year?-, file era
vviL .ltc working with iU Eas-t Rudolf.
Could Mwiuntela's pimltihg Iind be it proMyp? of f/i»uw i"ref%Ar tliefn? It b- mui li In-
early i.u ^v,btU \ Lielieve this h quite pus^ible
We wiE) fmd thr mswtt. I um ^utt J'or
among rhe ^r.ita ol the Eql-i Ruduh desert
lies a feac i n ill iag I'ul LJm e of prehl- r i iry h n I d
untold hiipters of the oritnn - nl teiinkidd
In tWu uar- w< have Scarceh tururd ihr
fir^l page, .ami I .Ltn eager to icci nr. with the
rending tiiE IthlD
BikeuA) to adventure; Cyclf-ti xttnaini ihnmvli inhMmflinrt'il doim itl
guide
By MELVILLE BfiLt GROSVENOR. U,.D„ V Dfen t 'hi*f "7|Ll i'ti jiirri^n ni the Hnur-i, t-^Li^rjphrfi Softly
'V??.
r •t -i- *
! |- -.n k. r»« i • -r rMnRSJIPcTn I4PE1 F JS.rfl jjjit I
Cap«- Cod Menial Ni^ishftn-r one «f the Imndfedv nf r«cn!dtkiv dre-^i portray* eL
SI \MMN<i < IN l>£t K in tmufk. wet -uiL
£i_nd ffipptts, li hcayj tank t-trappcd on
my luuk, I unxipusl.v watched my loi?^
pitfiionft udd wd^its t* m3 bell, A- if! didn’t
4 nl ready have enough cm to make \m sa*k Like
:\ stone!IJ
t ioorl heavens,1
*1 thouj^hi, "they're
trying £0 dftiwn me"
With fguVnk Luifl friends, T hud sailed ny.
yawl Whit< ,lfirf u] 1 the llud»ont nit lu <ris-
plort nurthea_-teni America by water Lukt
Chumptain urTurcd un.t-spr-.Leil adventure a
chance ia join in 3 i -.earcli for sunken RevaJu
nonary War ships Hut I ann rrnt ,i. strong
sW imittrt, ind be-nh^ ! had never iruftimil
735
sell In ii diving Tht desire b.\ tmd jorncthiflu
•lew. however. work i iu.1 . diid S fulkrWed the
cKpens over the side
^tr.ifiLrv ln?!tiid nt plummeting to i ii>-
bottom^ E It'll m e\lrunrfhri[iry hahmc^* arid
I cutitd breathe quite ml nr nullk |r mt'il sn
dirties* to descend and rise. A wondrousrc:dm opened bfcfdPfr mv vym
Ves^ I hod the thrill ol with n
plonk pried fmm in nld Wreck- From l~7Pr
No, but I irtumir the jm of I inti quesL midthe discovery t
J
lth ii iT 1 wj± 'till ready fortK
tin: i I j 1 1 1 t* iir ;i new v^ii'iitlon ^clwniurc
Cliflllcnp Quest Discovery, Joy. No lung-
er itre nio^ Americans content in vacation in
.1 hummock HiU fUL-i vtw inrt.y million
pib'hi'd hi tent or parked a truder .it mu? o|"
him to tin* John F Kennedy Symce t Voter,
Lind give him ,.i luok nl ji.mm Rii. in the
SrohhsOnStiri tosiiTuEinn, Washington- dunv-
pUce of toand Sjs want* to he a star We'Bdve her a Unitywood «tudtr.i tour, -ttiH top
it oir %vith E ri-nrvland rkhi I The wholetin uly will t u-J t - h ij swing through Sjui Fran I
liicu. New Orleans, Suit Autumn Ln lk*Ut
Mine i'.iml|el]| WlHiam^butJf at Christmas.
I ni n-r- hurl imd whreb make xyhi-
phqne trnisii un thr timber floor nl ,i covered
bridge ntmr J«uirnHi*jr a hurst* and aurlatte
emefm-. bet korun g ufrintu yesterdayV simpler
I i fe j lmon c t he F'l n n s\ 1v.iniu Du 1 < hp-t ip
We * ii inrr laces of Ami nca a- we tour
i ajunlaad amid Loui^iauo Uuvnus nr canoe
In l lie Ozark?, where mom Haiti L-r^U'bmvn
Piirt -Htu# play
in of WflrwsCh .I bulky if n -
k i-y rii tlii' Si".i ,
]i I* k.iiu h
iirar (. u- h U iEiririii 11 ir
155-Mjcre tipR'.k'J i- one of
1 1 1< i U:tj« 1 1
1
Si ill raitihr--- anrl
farm- tlial i>fiTi i urh ,u 1 llr
?
dif flsi vpr oi rural \miH-iea
Di s i i eylinid s dre :im u n rh
!
enthrall*. a Ln.gloaii if vlsi-
htt* TWi lunation nutLOirl
rii -rjuthfrti i. Efiltfornm wel
ffHnrj [rfi mlllioik ddsdile+l
l-C-pk i! Utli Veiic A> \\-\r.
Pi rat t ^liip Iut l- m frfin.
ys^ndtdiifc skim alum1 tin
\ Sowan I the 1
Wju-crhorn m hacki^roood-
tHe XiilliJik- itHl,!" > ( ii ni|
mill, - M jj^inn- morear^ hiking, biking r §kiin^, s|idtmkirLi£, traib
ndstm, tithing. Ijirrhwatdain.it, diuribakhiu.
Now j our Spi iet> hpi-p reg iaied an il iml
new book, F^rafiiontami US I. cu guide you
to the action—tm your dot3F5tep r nr J .« n«i
mile^ away BhreV a year-round pam iranai
nl' vacation activities, lroiti il- iw mobiltng in
S
t
w I Eumpbb i rc ki su rii np i n Haw aJ i.
I Iikw would you like to have a 1 abut .cm I 4
will krm--..' loke ill to yourself for a tew
JolEar? ,i iay ^ W’b mujtf, you tn orw in ihe
\ln.ika pariJi-intMc by llual pkiLUe
Hr rid i' wish llu* cowhands at vour vac a
lion home on the ? Or rftft the ntpicls in
mile deep Qmnd t anyon? Or I alon^dn aA E isslss 1 ppj h ifu> e h 1 cd ?
Juuiar wiiints tn h? iht utmm. Weil take
weave Jiid w hittle With si \:i\'ajo at tht
w bee Ir w r
jee
|
< thrmuil l M oh u sue r 1 1 Valiev
.
sv here rerl s&nifeuaw slabs iruirch aurrosA ahu robbed desert beneath 4 lurqm.nse sky..
Our choice 15 wide, ffe can chirk up a1 r tm link UltmiUsifS-pniit railroad to tlie topo| Mourn Witshinsnurs, or itliih- jiiiM -ilhi;aior>
In (he black wnieri of Okdnrpkee Sw.imj
Look! A cloud iA ceteis ri.-.i jruun floating
meadows in rhis st ranpc place IndiiiTL- adled
“land of tremhlln^ earth,
^
Winter brings the tlirilk oi bobsled* ^cc
iiotlU and snuwindbiit! In- summer '> ^rreJi orautunmN iiuJd, ItiV t^kt- it hu?idiTi hsh]ida\
,
].it‘i Lib n a t h roilgh M ass at hOset t
>" Ii: r r. .m p ui5 t
Our Space Agv vacations n-Bisct nn old
t ns^ 1 i : 1>1 1 1 \\ i- -
i i.'r 1 na t< 1 onee rn r « i n quoppi i l h l'J t
wldc-opm -paces with the livc-in prairie
-l 1 1 1 n n i v-
1 1 hLi v we r
rr n: di >c \ i venng th cIJin r
I
in it rurifie s lrailt:i, m motur 'utmw“Wh> dr i *vt du this?’ QuestiuiL? an Arlirpti-
dntk vMptit ii' ^eciite his turpim'
lin in a t.i^iii. ihunduf s-iortti. Why j-.wldk
biM'kpmk into Ihe woods? Why :deep under
the sters nn the Up t*f a sttTI-ncrivc ] Tawaiiao
vnlcnnn? Why trailer to ;l Mkhiiiiin 1 ll k e
owned by bear* aixt mo&qukuttfpl+To uzii t h» je nil/' the camper i.
i
j n
-
i ludfS- "To meet a storm* u living crvalim-’
of body and voice and brute hircir To learn
r(fS]jrd for feDaiiv creature^ whu ratRji ^m\
summer .md winter without all the stiyj 1
7 sft think 1 ncurL"
And tu see i Utariy ju^t as iistrununtson the
moon took bark iru earth with iteu perspec
n e. a rhrtO|5c of scene enables, us to examinen ur "i-ViTi lives with fre-h t:y
I* it VLiur Iks arainsi a trmil in a-f i
k
h n
^
mountain stream, and tares fail a,wav. Re-
liLxed.n,- i r rated through cbaJl&njdnp activity.
I've often tome u 1 1 with solutions to problemsthat had plagued nn i
A do-Il tfj^tber vac at uni i> nn investment
in family btrenj^th—and in America's future
Fve found tliai hiking, climbing horseback
riding ui fhi* Teton s pmvide a shared c&|jeri-
£ nee and open young eyes to nature's wpnrie: l
T-ei the hoy? set up rain|
fur rite night Let
StuLiincmg. bt-aglc and pjllrk,
a hiki'T furcU a VirciTtia bw-
retil on the Appal w'hi^n Tmil
H-lmne Irrrrn M:unr i rtnrgui.
t \m luJrRrsl cj.rCLT i j i i_u.n_i.-. markctl
path ofiters Jj'ii.ui miles « hf^n-
Cy .ind c. Is j lie1 h t-L
1
Pui^ord hy gtliunf1 ^ . s pm\
ih'}\ ilaow. *ki HijilmfLori CUE
tumi biTH^Lh a Il 3 E mi ( rjkj-
TiiiJn- A^<n Mnumnirr Warmirw tu nkiinu =isiiu-mubilliii=_
: cd i Jj r; u . . uyl k ;at] nu, 1 1 . i ru n r-
1
mtuft Atiforfeafli ^nrn hl^f-uati
o
1 1 Xtfi-irJ a Lhird rtow ii .1 kc
w infer viimliuriM
i1 _ ™
LW J i
UPjr i
the pfk do thu rooking. It rhanrivta young I'niT^its, gives
the 1 hildreii ,1 lifeliipg iittisrtii ui tJtea r kiurl
Wt rr 1 1 naikm ofdty dwellers— pen cm "i -nr pupuLi-
liun -quitted utitu than _ pun i.’iiL of iiur LljuI. Skit du
wilderrh:i? standi Lhefc waiting For each of ib- Vja milium
i~ili*cns, I hr I S. has m?1 uidt mure 1 Ui\n tin ,im- n| p-uhlu
|j|iiyCji[|iL nun h **: it ^urprbmgh accessible In the East,
JT J MZHC> mi\tz- of Appalachian Trail .ibmt' 1 :-kirt Mul grail
cities In ihr W^fvt. tlin V,u ike tVrnl Trail Unk- Me*L n ami
( lykoiit, traversing notional purk> u_nd forests. Our lar^i.jr-t
stale pa.rk, \eu Vofk^ Adirandiick Fort's! Pre-sin ^ ]li*. cd
with hundred* 1 miles 01 trails lies within ' imir-hoyr
drive ? >1 -V 1 j±j l IimetftiA t tit-mj ng s! ; eet >.
Our new Intrrviait Highway Sysum new germ roads*
rin?\v fajiilkfe spet'ii you to pi-ices v-i ju had tu muunt an1'\|ifdhiiiii to get to & few years ago By helicopter fromAspen you can alight atop 1 3 3 T^ r>l-foot iAitotacfn peak.
Mount Hayden, to ski in hreatlitaldns solitude Von can
put your boat in recently created Lakt Powelk as T have,
crob^and water-ski amir! the grHjMrkurnH :«ltn t 'anynn.and
7JO
Fun . .
.
Adventure . . *
Discovery , .
«
AMTLl.lfJN miles iif rewarding rucjirt'h
aver (ht p&M 1 months coiivcrgr
In Vaatfionlittid US,A- tu tnakt it your mint
comiilctt and u|Mi>-ilitfr ire real inn guide
it> the 50 United States. Jo si as Nation al4 1 LOiiRA J
1 u j < v-ritws, ihdf fnmittfe, andNtht r contrihutnrs aciuaily experienced its
uxitttini: tdwiitunsi, » may ytm and ymir
family—thi^ year and fur years, to tome,
In addition to hundred* of vacation ideu>.
the biu'k offers If maps |nii| minting mir
NaUfm'f tiaib t waterway*, parklands. tourifit
sites-, iinii the fcsiivali qf tiiidi -l.ilc in evnry
season. VoufIJ also receive _l m-hy-^^dncl 1
two- vided vacation nt-ip nipplemen! of
the entire U S .•V
Buckram-hound. thi> —-( 7 'Vby-
i G Vi -inch volutne, fully indexed, canttuns 500color Ll’us-iraLiiin.1
! Truly ,1 great
for your faznfly'i ftilurr Only* liJl! .kL. ir-ir.li ^ *11 .H.
7$9h
US3
Please send meme N anow as, setaGRupHic s new.
aomoanidn to happy holidays
Vacationland U.S.A.
Rim imet 5 ulus postage and handling at
time of ShiphiEfit.“ Send to:
ptNMG
*£iSlflHS
aft 5^*ti xp
"II not completely jalrstietf, I may return mebook to the Society without payment
Anriuni 1'Lztr “hjin mug.:: nv RErtft r!;r. or and mail lodiif
EO
Iff^ C3 wHi
I
5
< IE I
5 Ia_hia:
Cfl gw> a
Z &
tS 5T) Q
01 ^
03
03
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<n
aMBS
Clas
O)a03
. 0To
i c:
1 .2 _
CO
ooe\j
ddcoo
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<o
xOCD
Gso
a£
» £O -c°
CL
At home in *n jilk-n realm, visitors- prowl a Thu kri of clkborn corn] at John Fetinr-
Jtflf&p f‘nta!l Rfeef Sf4i* Fkrk. lh< Niltiiili V. lir-tf lindeT.-vtJ ^toerve Herr, in a IJJ
iquare-milf iunriPU' playground off Key Lor^, Florida, *kin-div cr* arid In
i^S .i-i Pj iTtOJTwrj hnat * an explore a Lintj. y woiirj erf writM roroln .ind rii I ly iiued fisfeel
visit Rainbow Hridetr, w&rW's largest. natural
i nli r>u l r i1
1
1
1
fh jn u : ii t ite c\ctti s Lfy :i new
concept in uur Xailomd P:trk SyMetn—teert-
aretis tu > hallengv tfe athletic and 1**
takr|
m- -Hurt? off iti
L
1 L'fuiyiJ^cl niit fninsIparks,
Yiicotitmlnfui USA. portrays the Wraith
of holiday dividends to be gained in newnational recreation area*. the natiofpjii sta-
dihrcs, 3 tike ihures, tin ci wild rivers It prt
sent* the spectrum our wildlife refuses,
nutional forest:-, uttr i hQ00 state-park grras
It jdJidfei you In trail-., waterways. Indian
raervannns, and four seasons of fun: fair.s
pageants, music festivals, regal! n,% drrbii'i,.
itideos.pqwwnw- , w ibtet c ar nK aJ.-.
In it:- pu^ts you Watch Thoroughbredslraj n i n tt in Ken
l
lukys b l Lie grass t ou ntry
.
board o ^uafre -ringed whaler at Mystic 3ea
port in Connect] rut in relive ih& days of
Mofcy £?rc£; follow the footsteps qf cutthroats
and heroes along ihe Natche* Trace; go under-
ground with njjc lu taker* who probe the \a-
ihm\ estimated: 5QJK3G cave*.
To brine you V&tatibnlatid l\SS., mar
Hciok Service i.eam orplored 3 nniiitm llItvc at
work- and purposeful play in ghu^L towns
740
of the Old West. David K I 1 1
1
sm pi dug upprt?t! & of handmade gla.y= cuid named a rich
Unit ti f Inn* Ros> Rrnneu '- youngsters
watched wide-eyed as men made pl.iiu'v andtats, and l lit! skills that can fashion .l
Louisv^ilkt Slugger or 7^i r.rtimhunes. Pnijctl
niitur Tom \llcn savored, the quiet joys o( a
seashore UwttrG hunt for shells on Flundii's
Sanibel L>Lmd, a tuilure --LUicttiLiry
ball lit and Strm Span <, - - n c ml i «» 3
1
t-ap
The book's m.i tinging editor, SeymourFishberin wondered whether h ej could makesi in 1 hr top ni Rninusrt snow-crow’ntrJ mnnarrh of the ( _Lwaiie>. U ith ^ms Joe, 3-^, and
Jeff M. hr Joined oiher lyrus traitung ^iLh
rope> and sharing tlw ct>ld, dis-
comforts and camaraderie of a nuHintidn hut
at laOOO feel Then ciime the cbaJlenp- oi
facial ill a* nis+ Use ngom m List fimd rtdgt.
YchieviTi!! the summit, body driuned. spirit
taring, he found iOi meshing more ^For this
priceless moment in our livti, the boy^ and1 Is.ivi. reached Eta oss the perilous rhastn be
tween our generutums .uni foumi uyr^eSsci
together Wbai more aili a *umnw do 1'’
Kodachiomef fii A.U*, PAfltncv
Next time you take your Kodak color film in to be
idea to ask for Kodak processdeveloped, it
ing, This way, you’re certain to get I
Which means your color snapshots, si i
will be developed by Kodak technicians
using Kodak materials. We think you'll
like what develops,
11
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Sony cantake youplaces you neverdreamed you'd go.
NVUti ejUf WOrid /un& mdraYou can ait iri Bathe Cr^k, Mich pn
ftvdr ihrt View=f PoilhnrmfTnit—irofTT Vier tintf out She waathef at tirti A*c !ic
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terie-i, w gr AC Lyrr&rtl at at! vulture typesIhrot jghoyt the world
riCJit Inns you teef Slug LUg* tn
Irpval, |U5 t pick £1 CXWatry, ftirn onoar radio, and tJosa ysor c^r..
rtr
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHICSkept neat , clean, handy
Muiiuri 1 :£!;. i-ir.J !":£ i a i p mi*} -i-. 'IJ5 n.nnrr-
SOma fllfeu |o tiCCprnfi vftlunblr libraryre'fHiinv^ ^lulTMHL LlkiI* ^.u Fine Lou-h 1
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twk-red Fmnli EtaHiutifullyembi^ed in flplif, toriaproor. Qrie filt
h^ld*: h fi3rr mini m^P'. Inciikdfatium&ei-i far airline rteti?s 4 ole Etiaran
Sunn -herb to THE RIOMSWITH CO'j FqM AEfcU-MDn. «ViS 53536.
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KLEPPER'*Master1
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KLEPPER, 35 Union Sq. #.. H.Y.C. 1CDP3 I
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TOE CATALOG G?o
TO ASSIST VOUR SOCIETY mprompt jnd t^htipni nrmu.\ pluatjE? include*
in 1 orr^pfidenrf1
. wtwift ^pplM-^i I ikor thenull tup label from yOLtr JNjTKinjI Ci-ci^jplifc,
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Address All Inquiries Ta:
Natrona! Geographsc Socsei>
Washrn(flon t D. CL ZWKn
WHEN CHANGING ADDRESS. pfttWJitdCli ,i Gei.i^uij^hic nuuiins? libel .tnrj PRISTrirVe ueSdfg-tir i?p todi- rodudind ShLvc-£>«j. jfjyjmip’ nni.re ihutiTd be g.iv^n
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CHILDREN LOVE COLOR!and whM hea&i plan* ft] ttmi is than in
the Nal/onai Geographic .School fin/ teem/
Hfjr^ is your r hilcTs own magazine a rib full i ribr photo* and 1 1 vely ^urie**
in Mm dll oyi?F ihe world, Written ^peCLiily lor hrni ii vw i|t rruike the pest
rnan'i vbrl .an excilmg event!
The 16 pjgLj Button iv priced below mw , 3 | only pennies per - mpv—a fine
Fnwsimrnt in your & bifd*s fuiyre; 30 weekly during ihe school yedr.
Lkr lid 1 cinkr tufrri IftfU'-w
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY * Dept. 60f ndojet/ fii'tcf ]> , 5ent/,'*i hoof tiulielint to,
WjshingEi>n> D C . 200 K-
PI 1 Vfeaf $2.25| |
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Cm STAll IV Li JIM
How many $50electronics are therewith an
atic calendar?
The ElectrtHik Ti*vex
It's |jo wftreil hv a lirw
rOpl^CClbk1 Liner^v Liill Inal
Jasis a whole *car.
Il*s ^^99% jet urate*
,
El never ticetk winding.
It 1ms an iiuiutiMiic
calendar
l\\ transistorized,
h hasa jump sweup&cctmdhaJru!
h\ \\ ater resistant.
It'* t)u i resistant.
I he Electron it i i vvex t It never needs winding-
tytorie] illir< "n* 1 ^ejjulifion miy br imchiiti tii #£hif vr 1 hi > jecot*
People aren't taking such a
dim view of things anymore
Tmv wai, ^h- : n Ecifc \u\\ use i little t^bow Jj ease Eu
dear up thc-ir car':; Ir^y re^: Ainduw.
fin* all they ds ki lurn on nui ^Ir-zlncallv healaif ^ear
window Eg sie w hars going on behind Itieir backs
The mloetcia windshield helped ctear Lhingi up, Eoa.
Automotive styling, Idt one. Va^dalrsm at Ihe eHd hih onedi
hum *hip, For arvjttwf,
Ihif^e affi putl lm q-tentples u! *hit #a've been up Is
lately m\h eiass
Taks j gml uuh foil'll be seeh^i ,1 lot nor* -it us
In yam m (n your home In you* office. Wherever
theFu's glass.
Lib bey Ford Company I'dledo, Otsiu 42624.,
The growing worldM-F LU.A5S * AtPBQUiP CQSF. < WODDAL L MM! WC. *
of libbey-Owens-Ford IEJliMtift V.IFTBCXH psv - VlQOIFlIi FAfTfiM t FLASFICtt. ItiC
It takes sensible exercise andsensible eating to stay on the
young side, starting with breakfast.
And just one ounce of
KelloggV Product 19* gives you100% of the officially established
Minimum Daily Adult Require-
ments for vitamins andiron.Thai's high potency!
Delicious, too.
Get hack on the young sidestarting with jfa
Product 191
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^KiIdu ^ 1970 by ICalotf Cefrip-ny