H o m e M i l l i n e r y C o u r s e

THORO'GH,PRACTICAL

A' D COMPLETE

S E R I E S O F L E S S O ' S

Copyrigh ted by

'ATIO'AL MILLI'ER' COMPA' 'H

Co s tly T h y H abi ts , Pu rse Can Buy ,Bu t ' o t E¥pF€SS €zdR i c h

,' o t G audy .

'

Sh akespeare

INTROD' CTION .

I n prepar ing th i s ser i es o f l e ssons , the wr it e rs have en

deavored to imbue the mind w i th the fundamental pr inc iples o fmi l l i nery taken as an art .

Too l i t t l e t ime has hereto fore been g iven to th i s most importan t part o f a woman ’s ward robe

,the headdre ss .

Women have s tud i ed the d ress because upon th i s dependedthe s ett i ng o ff o f the grace ful l ines and curves o f the figure ,w i th a total d i s regard fo r mak ing a su i tab le sett ing for the beaut i fu l l ines o f the face . The impor tance o f mak ing a study o f

th i s feature of a woman ’s d ress cannot be over— est imated,as

noth ing adds to or de tract s f rom a woman’s charms as does theexerc i s ing o f taste in th i s es sent i a l .

I t.

i s w i th much sat i s fac t ion ,'

however,that we note a rap id

advancement along these l ines w i th in the past few years,w i th

the resu l t that two - th i rd s o f the women , who a short t ime ago

depended ent i re ly upon the adv ice o f thei r mi l l i ner,are a t the

present t ime se lect ing and t r imming the i r own hat s .Thi s i s not confined a lone to any part i cu lar cl as s o f peopl e

but i s be ing done by al l w i th su rpr i s i ngly sat i s factory resul ts . I tshould not be supposed

,however , that th i s can be accompl ished

w i thout first acqu i r ing the neces sary knowl edge along the l ineo f m i l l inery , as w i thout the fundamental p r inc ipl e s , a woman i sbut l imit ing her poss ib i l i t ies and stunt ing her otherwi se ar t i s t icnatu re .

I t has been t ru ly sa id that The lack o f art i st ic percept ionand apprec iat ion i s not inheren t

,but mere ly due to a negl ec t o f

cul t ivat ion and developmen t o f the s ense o f beau ty , ' and not ruer examp l e can be g iven o f th i s than the one we have thepl easu re o f present i ng to you .

We have endeavored to confine these l essons not alone to

any par t i cu lar season , but to have them cover as much groundas pos s ib l e wi th the idea o f promot ing and st imu l at ing the ar t i st ictemperamen t and developing that creat ive el emen t i n the womanaccord ing to the frugal l aws o f economy .

The subj ects treated o f in these l essons are those that presen tthemselves day a fte r jday—~ in practi cal m i l l inery bus iness andshould be ca re fu l l y and thoroughly {ha tered be fore attempt ingto emu l ate and competewith the experkinced m i l l iner .We have aimed toimake

'

th e cou rse int ere st ing by means o f

i l lust rat ions and may be pu rsued withwi l l ing rath er than en forced app l i cat ion , and that i t may be con

tinued with such energy and prec i s ion as to g ive to each o f our

pupi l s recogn i t i on wi th in the ranks o f the fin i shed art i st .

_3_

SELECTING THE HAT .

Too much cannot be sa id“

concern ing the sel ect ion o f thehat

,as the most art i st ical ly t r immed one fai l s in i ts mi s s ion i f

unbecom ing to the wearer .

I t has eve r been the custom o f the Ameri can woman inbuyi ng an art i c le , to buy i t because she had s een It worn to good

e ffect by anothe r and s h e de l uded he r se l f w i th the idea that i fi t was becoming to that per son i t would al so be to her . No th ingi s farthe r f rom the t ruth . As a matte r o f fact s h e ignores thetwo es sent i al po int s i n buying mi l l i ne ry

,name ly ' that a hat to

be in good s tyl e must be becoming to the wearer,and that no

two faces are symmet r ical ly th e same,the re fore must be reckoned

with al ong d i f f e ren t l ines .

I t i s an out rage to good taste and j udgment the hats one

meets w i th on th e st reet s th rough th i s carel essne ss or l ack o f

tas te . How o ften do we see peop l e neat ly and appropr iatelyd ressed except for an unbecom ing hat wh ich has been fash ionedw i th apparently no thought or regard for the features and l ineso f th e face . Th i s is d ifficul t to unders tand unl es s i t i s in factdue to the i r be ing ab le to see themsel ves only as a reflect ion o fthe oth er per son wear ing the art i cl e . B e the reason what i t may

,

i t shou l d be overcome by giv ing more thought and s tudy to thesubj ect

A woman should , when se l ect ing he r hat , l ook at i t f romboth s i des , and f rom the back as we l l a s the front , remembe r ingth at'

. th e mos t c r i t i ca l eye i s apt to s ee i t f rom the back . She

should a l so give due regard f or th e way i t sett l es down upon thehead as no person can fa i l to look ugly in a hat that shows bu tl i t t l e o f the brow or t empl es . She should remember tha t thewoman comb ing her ha i r s t ra ight back f rom the forehead cannot wear and look we l l in the hat made to be worn w i th theflu f fy or wavy ha i r , al so that the hai r worn h igh or l ow makes

a vast d i ffe rence i n the way the hat set s and looks upon the head.

I t i s easy to note that whi l e an oval or round face lookswe l l under certa i n Shapes

,the same th ing us ed to grace a square

cut one wou ld be not only unbecom ing,bu t have the e ff ect o f

accentuat ing the al ready p rom inen t l i nes .

I t i s a very common th ing for a woman o f mature years todon a hat made f or a much younger person , supposed ly w i th theidea o f making herse l f l ook young

,but w i th the oppos i te resul t ,

that o f ca l l ing attent i on to hersel f and mak ing the mature l inesmore prom inent .

The col lar has al so a great deal to do , ind i rect ly , w i th thelooks o f the hat , a l l owing the face to appear long or shor t accord i ng to the he ight and s tyl e o f the same .

Colors should al so pl ay a l arge part in th e ~ selection o f the

hat,vary ing accord ing to th e age

,colo r o f the eyes and com

pl ex ion o f the weare r .

Economy in woman i s sa id to be a v i rtue and in i ts e ff ectsupon dres s i t might wel l be te rmed as such

,as to d re ss wel l on

a sma l l amount o f money i s an ar t many a woman has beencompel led to l earn . A great many peopl e , however , have a fal seidea o f economy

,th inking o f i t only as a means o f sav ing money

at the t ime,where i n real i ty the i r very e fforts are turned into

ex travagance by th i s fal se i dea . I t i s far more economical toput money into good mater ial when i t w i l l l as t tw ice as long andlook much bette r than the same amount pu t tw ice in to cheapmate r ial s .

I t i s al so more economi cal and i n much better tas te to h aveone good hat , wel l made and o f good mate r ial than a dozenpoorly made hats o f poo r mate r ial . I f you cannot a ff ord goodvelve t f or your hat ge t a good grade o f r ibbon , th i s can at anyrate be used a s econd t ime . I n shor t do not attemp t to make anelaborate th ing w ith cheap im i tat ions .

I f but one hat can be had during th e season , cater not tofad s but rathe r inve st your money in -an ord inary shape , o f goodst raw o r oth e r mate r i al that can be proper ly used for al l occas i ons th i s season and read i ly a l te red to the preva i l i ng shapes o fnext . A l so i f but on e hat can be indu lged in

,l e t i t be o f bl ack

o r some othe r so ft,pretty shade o f s imp l e and modes t des ign

that w i l l attract attent ion on ly for i t s neatness and s impl ic i ty .

I f a touch o f color i s des i red,l et i t be art i st ical ly added in the

t r imm ing . A hat o f loud or el aborate colo ring and des ign i svery l i ke ly some t ime th roughou t the season to be found cl ash ingwith the pattern or color ing o f the gown . We wou ld not be

mi sunde rstood to mean that the hat shou ld always be the col oro f th e d res s , as th i s i s unneces sary ; they should not however ,be out o f harmony wi th each other , and such t r imming as i s u sedshould match the gown i f poss ibl e .

When se l ect i ng a hat ,get one that w i l l l ookwe l l over the ha i r , butfi rst comb th e ha i r to bebecom ing to the face , as

i t w i l l be d i fficul t to re

arrange you r ha i r whendes i r ing to remove thehat .

We wou ld , i n short ,urge a ce rta i n amount o forigina l i ty in th e sel ec

t i on and t r imming o f the hat,however

,not to the exten t o f

f reak i shnes s,but wi th du e regard for the l ines o f the face

,co lor

o f the comp l ex ion and eyes , and dres s o f the neck and hai r .

We give h e re in,a number o f ru les wh ich are sa fe to fo l l ow

wi th a poss ib l e f ew except ion s

Never attempt to make,t r im or buy a hat , without first

study ing the sty l es for the season . These styl es are publ i shedin th e var iou s magaz ines and papers for th i s purpose and w i l lbe found to be sa fe c r i te r ions to fol low . The bes t m i l l i nerstud i e s her styles as does al so th e best d re ssmaker

,and

,

you rorigina l i ty w i l l not sa fe ly carry you to th i s d i s tance .

A fa i r concept ion cannot be had o f a f rame be fore i t i scove red ; i t Shoul d the re fore be covered and then se t upon thehead when i t may be bent or a l te red to the des i red shape .

Toques,tu rbans and oth er sma l l shapes w i l l ever h ave the i r

adherent s,be ing

,as they are

,ve ry serv iceabl e for bus iness or

st reet wear . These shou l d , when made f or th i s purpose , be o f

subdued shades,thus permi tt ing them to be worn f rom the l atter

part o f one season far into the next w i th good e ffect and economy . They can be fash ioned very pret t i ly o f velvet o r some

so ft mater ial such as tul l e or ch i ffon or even such mater ial asI S used in the d res s

,thu s mak ing what i s known as the sem i

t ai lored hat . The t r imm ing f or th ese hats shou ld be , as a rul e ,h igh on the l e f t s i de with aigret tes or some othe r l ight feathe ryo rnament .

The b lack hat o f any fash i onab l e styl e o r shape , prov id ingit be becoming

,i s a good go—between hat and i s in excel lent taste

f o r a l l occas ions , as we l l a s a cheap one to i nves t in,due to i t s

adaptabi l i ty f or be ing cl eaned .

The season wou l d be a season o f ext remes rathe r than goodtast e , that wou ld admit o f a woman o f mature years wear ing the

hat o f the schoo l —gi r l wh i ch t ip s d i rect ly up in f ront .

Linge r i e, or l igh t ai ry hat s f or summe r gi r l s , are ext reme ly

pret ty and can be made ch i c and gi r l i sh . There is a l so the fa i thfu l o ld Leghorn hat that neve r goes out o f sty le and i s se rv iceab l e f o r a great many seasons

,due to i t s capac i ty f or being

c l eaned and rec l eaned,and its a lmost l im i t l es s poss ib i l i t i e s when

i t come s to shapes,s i zes

,and manne r s o f t r imming . A good

Mi lan bra id i s a l so se rvi ceab l e and a good one to i nves t i n .

Odd shapes are not an economical inve stment , and espec ia l lyi s th i s t rue o f the st i ff st raws o r the st raw that wi l l not pe rmi to f be i ng resewed .

Pictu re shape s are dec i ded ly pret ty ove r young face s butare

,o f course

,bes t adapted fo r d res s hat s .

Large hat s requ i re more t r imming than sma l l ones and arethu s , as a ru l e , more expens ive .

A st i ff brai d wi l l stand th e damp weather much bette r thanthe l igh ter st raws or th e l ight mu l l or ch i ffon hats .

I f you wou ld avo i d gett ing wrink l es , get a hat that fit s andfee l s we l l on the head

,as noth ing i s so exasperat ing as to have

the h at s l ipp ing f rom one s i de to the othe r . By th i s we do not

mean that the c rown shou ld come down over the head,as the

sma l l er c rowns o ftent imes fee l bet te r and seem to fi t the head

be t te r than the large r ones .

A heavy hat i s an abominat ion and i s an incumbrance that

is ent i re ly unnece ssary even though very l arge , as l igh t and ai ryt r imming i s equa l ly as servi ceab l e and qu i te as pretty . Thi s i s

anothe r source o f wr ink le s to the weare r as a person w i l l natu ra l ly wrink l e the face in t ry ing to keep a heavy hat on the head .

Do not th ink because a hat feel s h eavy when first pl aced upon

the head that i t i s due to your not be ing used to i t and that i tw i l l apparent ly get l i ghter a s t ime passes

,as th i s i s far f rom

being the case . The chance s are that i t w i l l get heav ier eacht ime worn .

Mr . W i ll f ed Webb in h is book The Her i tage o f Dress

pr inted in England has th i s to say concern ing the subj ect ' “A

heavy hat makes one have low Spi r i t s ; a broad hat , one fee l s

j o l ly ; a fancy hat , coquett i sh mood , and i t makes one feel br igh teras th e hat ro l l s away from the face .

'

' ndoubted ly the hat has a great d eal to do w ith one ’s sp i r i t sas there i s noth ing that so depre sse s one as to have someth ingwrong wi th the hat or as to have i t wabb l i ng from one s ide toth e other . The ru les concern ing i l l fitt ing c rowns and heavy hatsshou ld be e speci a l ly observed for e ld e r ly peop le , as i t i s veryd i fficu l t at best to go about wi thout these unnecessary inconven iences .

I f th e br im o f the hat comes wi th in range o f the v is ion tothe exten t o f be ing annoy ing , another s tyl e should be obta ined ,w i th care to avo i d th i s

,as there i s no economy in wear ing a hat

at th e expense o f the eyes .

The car r iage o f the head has a great deal to do w i th thelooks o f the hat as

,what would otherw i s e be j aun ty and be

coming,has th e e ffect o f be ing ent i rely out o f p l ace on a person

wi th d roop ing head and s tooped shoulders . The body shou ld becar r i ed erect to give to the clothes the prope r e ff ect .

I t i s impor tan t in sel ec t ing the hat that one should g ive duecons ide rat ion to the bu i ld and he igh t o f the figure , as a hat wel lse l ected and in good taste would be cons idered dowdy unle s s inkeep ing w i th the proport ion s o f th e body . For i l l u strat i on , 3

short,stout pe rson

, or one w i th a shor t , plump face , cou ld bemade to look h ideous w i t h a w ide

,flat hat w i th low t r imm ings .

Espec ia l ly i s th i s t rue o f th e turned down br im . The hat shoulda lways be sel ected wi th a v iew to correct ing rather than exaggerating a fau l t . Happy i s the woman o f med i um he igh t andweigh t

,i nasmuch

,as s h e can wear hat s accord ing to th e preva i l

i ng style s,wh i l e her more un fortunate s i ster i s compel l ed to

se l ect he r hat w i th a v iew to co rrect ing the proport ion s o f herfigure regard l ess o f the season ’s s tyle s . Th i s ru l e i s ever imperat ive and mu s t be fol lowed regard l es s o f the cur ren t styl e s .

One w i th short neck should have a care that the h at , as wel las the t r imm ing

,be cl ear and wel l defined , as a fl u ffy, ruffiing

e ffec t,e spec ia l ly below the br im

,has the appearance o f st i l l fu r

ther sho rten ing the neck . Cont rary to th i s,the person w i th long

neck should avo id the long,s tra igh t qu i l l s o r t r imm ings e spec ial ly

when stood erec t or near ly so upon the hat . The hat as wel l asa l l adornmen ts shou l d e ff ect the flu ffy appearance rather than th elong , s tra igh t l i ne . Th i s ru l e shou l d al so be observed by thosew i th l ong faces and cl ear cut l ines .

A person w i th poin ted nose o r th i n face w i l l do wel l a lwaysto avo id any semblance o f a scoop o r po in t in fron t as i t has thee ffect o f lengthening the al ready sharp nose . She may thoughwear the wide br im and flu ffy tr immed hat , prov i ded he r figu re

i s not shor t and s tocky,and wh ich i s not apt to be the case . For

the th in face a round e ffect i n f ron t appa rent ly broadens thel ine s

,wh ich i s a d i st i nct advantage .

A pointed hat may for thes e reasons be worn by a round,

fu l l fac e , where the broad ful l f ron t appears to a d i sadvantage .

The e f f ect o f a square j aw i s l e s sened by the se lect ion o f a

pointed and wel l ou t l ined hat , bu t i s exaggerated by anyth ingl ike a flat or “mortar board shape .

A very smal l c rown i s not as a ru l e becoming to a womanwith a large

,fu l l face . E speci al ly i s th i s t rue o f the sai lor hat .

Probably upon no one th ing does so much depend in thelooks or se l ect ion o f the hat as does the co i ff ure . I t should ,th ere fore

,be stud i ed f rom al l po ints

,w i th a v i ew to becom ing

the face fi rst,wh ich done shou ld form the bas i s upon wh ich tose l ect the hat .

The t rue value and e ffect o f the hai r w i th re ference to thehat

,may be had by t rying the hat fi rs t over the wel l ar ranged

and becoming co i ffu re and then over the hai r combed s tra igh tback f rom the face and forehead . The d i fference in e ffect i smarvelou s .

When a hat comes wel l down over the brow i n f ron t , butup on the s ide s far enough to show the temples , th e ha i r shouldbe loosened at the s i des to make a so f te r se tt ing f or the face .O l der faces requ i re more so f ten ing by the arrangement o f thehai r than younger ones .

Br ims turned h igh a t any p l ace are never as becom ing overhai r combed pl a in as when combed l igh t and flu ffy .

When arrang ing th e ha i r i t may be wel l to know that i t i srare ly, i f ever , the cas e when l igh t ha i r i s not more becomingwhen cu r led

,wh i le dark or bl ack ha i r , be ing prov ided w i th i t s

own natural l u ste r,wi l l permi t o f much l es s adornment in th e

way o f curl s or ornaments .

Black ha i r i s al so very beau t i ful when arranged in openbra i ds , wh i l e l igh t ha i r wi l l r arely perm i t o f be ing d rawn i ntobra ids o f any kind

,to good effect .

Pe rsons wi th long, th in faces should , when arranging th eha i r , as when select ing the hat , avo id al l l i n es in the way o f

r inglet s or l ong curl s . They may,however

,wear the hai r knot ted

low i n th e back o f th e neck,to good e ffec t .

To the oval face i s g iven the pr i vi l ege o f wear ing the longr ingle ts , shoul d the styles permi t , though wi th a care ful avo idance to any semblanc e o f smal l cur l s around the neck o f short

or stocky proport ions .One should always apply th i s rul e i n the se lect ion o f a hat ;

when not absolutely sure that a certa in shape i s becom ing,i t

shou ld be taken in a mod ified rather than an exaggerated form,

and the eff ect wi l l not be far from correct .The subj ects treated o f in th i s ser i es o f l es sons w i l l be d i s

cussed unde r the var ious heads f rom t ime to t ime as may bedeemed necessary , th i s be ing made imperat ive , due to the sub

j ects be ing close ly related .

Accessories and th e Art of Dressing

The re i s perhaps no one th ing so much sough t a fte r i n th i sworld today as d re ss

,an innate des i re f or grace and beauty

,

born , bred and nu r i sh ed by every woman to a greate r or l es s

degree . Wi th al l o f thes e earnest d e s i res,we regret to say there

are but a comparat i ve few who know exact ly h ow to go abouti t to obta i n these coveted e ffect s .

I s i t a lack o f money that cause s so many othe rwi se succe s sfu l women to fai l when i t comes to the matter o f d res s ' By nomeans

,fo r are not some o f ou r most tas te fu l ly d re ssed women

to be found among the m idd le o r poore r cl as ses wh i l e some o f

the i r more weal thy s i ste rs succeed only i n making a spectacl eo f themse lves f o r th e vu lgar and gaping pub l i c to gaz e upon '

There remain s then but the one so lut ion to th i s p roblem , a

defic iency o r l ack o f t ast e or as some p refe r to ca l l i t , a l ack o fknack i n d res s i ng .

With th i s l esson,as w i th each o f the others , we sha l l en

deavor to implant in the minds o f our readers th e seed wh ich ,th rough proper nouri shmen t and care

,shal l br ing forth i t s f ru i t s

to character i ze th e d res s in the fu tu re . To accompl i sh th i s thesubj ect s mus t be h and l ed i n a gene ral

,rather th an in a spec ific

way,as to t ry to teach the woman tast e th rough the h at alone ,

i s l i ke t ry ing to g ive a ch i ld an educat ion by teach ing i t ar ith me

t i c on ly . To succeed with that study , th e ch i l d must‘

be given

th e var ious branches l ead i ng to i t , and so i t i s w i th ou r work ,the study o f taste in dres s mus t be made genera l i f we wouldapp ly i t wi th natu ra l grace and p rec i s ion to our cons truct ion o f

mi l l inery

Th e E ff ect o f t h e Va r ious Co lors .

There are probably no ru le s more frequen t ly viol ated thanthose govern i ng th e se l ect i on o f co lors w i th respect to the com

p l ex ion . How o f ten have we seen an a l ready flor id complex ionmade to look even l iv id by i t s cl os e con tact to a wa i s t or colo rthat shou ld have been worn on ly by a person o f fa i r sk in andgo lden ha i r . There are many case s where a beau t i fu l face hasbeen made to l ook les s comely by i t s c lose contact to i l l - su i tedand o ffens ive colo rs , wh i l e other s i n the same color have beenmade to look even rad i ant wh o wou ld oth erwi se have been pl ai n .

Thus we see that colo rs shou l d be selected wi th the idea o f

e i ther heighten ing the luste r or d i sgu i s ing the . want o f i t and

great care shou ld be taken that such se l ect i ons are properly made .

It i s rare ly the case whe re beauty i s enhanced by the morebr i l l i ant o f co lors

,such as br ight red, green , ye l low ,

purp l e o r

br ight b lue,and wh i l e pe rhaps in the latte r case

,the effect i s

not so pronounced even th i s shou ld be se lected wi th ve ry greatd i scre t ion . The e ffect o f the so fte r shade s such as l ight or softb lue , l ight green , pa l e red 'pink'or vio l e t i s much more p l easi ng

,giv ing as i t doe s the i dea o f da int ine s s and a suggest ion o f

mode sty . To one whose percep t ion of co lors i s not keen,we

wou l d sugges t that the i r e ffect on the comp l exion be determinedby taking p i eces o f mater i a l o f the br ighter co lors and ho ld ingthe se close to the face

,as with the br ighte r shades the e ffect i s

more pronounced and can be more eas i ly dete rm ined . After

the se l ect ion has been made the co lors may then be toned downto th e so fte r and l i ghter shades .

Genera l ly speaking,co lors shou ld make a p leas i ng contrast

to th e comp lextion . For i l lust rat ion,i t wou ld be the he igh t o f

fol ly for a person o f flori d compl exion to attempt to wear abr igh t red d res s or hat , as to do so woul d on ly heighten

-

theco lor o f the face and thus make i t the more consp i cuous . Onthe other hand , a pe rson

“

o f pa l e sk in can stand a ce rt ai n amounto f co lor o f the pa l e r shades to good e ffect . Where the sk in i sde l i cate and pa l e wi thout co lor

,th e p ink shades i nc rease the

color and have a becoming e ffect , but i f i t be fa i r ye t w i th ade l i cate co loring

,the b lue s are then best a ffected . The ext reme

ly red or ye l low comp l exion shou ld not attempt to wear h ighco lors

,espec i a l ly among these be i ng red

,ye l low and l i lac . A rich

bu ff o r ce rtai n shade s o f ye l low or lemon look extremely we l l onbrunettes

,espec i a l ly those o f dark hai r and eye s but o f fa i r Ski n .

Wh i le b l ack ha i r shou ld be set o ff by scar le t , orange o r

Wh i te , l ight brown hai r requ i res b lue . Redd i sh ha i r may o ftenbe toned down wi th shade s o f brown though i f i t be o f a go ldred

,blue

,purp l e

,green o r b lack wou ld pe rhaps be the bet te r .

When the hai r lacks a natural r i chness i t may be l i vened up-by

a care fu l cho i ce o f co lors . Lavender or hel i ot rope wou ld be cons idered espec i a l ly good f o r a pe r son o f l igh t hai r and eye s and

o f fa i r comp lex ion .

I t i s a lways we l l to remembe r that a pa l e face shou ld havei t s pa leness corrected by a l ight though dainty choi ce o f co lors

,

but a sa l low person wi l l do wel l a lways to avo id rose p ink '

o r

dead whi te as i t h as a tendency to emphas i ze its sa l lownes‘s .

“ A

cranberry or flame'

red wou ld undoubted ly on '

the cont rary havethe e ffect o f making i t look rad iant . Black i s becoming to mostpeop le though there are except ion s to th e ' ru le . Th i s is t rue o f

a l l co lors as there are no fixed ru l es governi ng the co lors ce rta in

peop l e shou ld wear,as what woul d look we l l w i th the com

pl ex ion and eyes , the ha i r might al te r . Due to th i s fact i t i sadvi sabl e that each should dec ide th i s fo r he rsel f unl es s indeedshe has no eye for colo rs , i n wh ich case she s houl d consu l t afr iend upon whose j udgmen t she cou ld rely .

A fter the sel ec t ion has been made,th i s col o r should be ad

hered to to a greate r or l e s s degree in al l manner O f d res s .

Elder ly peopl e shou l d be ext remely care ful in the i r sel ect ion Of colo rs as there i s noth ing that appears so pathet i cal lyfan tas t ic as to s ee a woman o f matu re years decked out in a comb inat ion o f gaudy colors . As the years pas s the co lors wornshou ld be fewer and on the mi lde r and l e s s conspicuou s order ,as for ins tance , wh i l e the br ighter shades o f blue , green , red ,etc . , can be u sed by younger peop le , O lde r ones are l im i ted to afew poss ibl e shades such as brown

,pu rp l e , green , gray and

black . B rowns should even be sel ected w i th great care as i t i sin many cases unbecom ing to th e du l l shades O f the hai r . I t i sby far bet te r f or elde rly people to g ive ven t to thei r ext ravaganti dea s and the i r des i re for the ul t ra gorgeous by buy ing an ext rafine grade o f goods

’

rath er than indul ging in a pro fus ion O f colo rs .

Colors and th e Dres s .

In sel ect ing colo rs to be worn in d ress one must not fo rge tthat the p roport ions o f the figu re are equa l ly as much to be cons idered as those prev iously men t ioned ; what would look wel l ona tal l s l ende r figure wou ld appear to a d ec i ded d i sadvantage on

a shor t one . As f o r i l lu st rat ion,bl ack has the tendency to make

a stout pe rson appear much smal l e r wh i l e wh i te has exact ly theOppos i te e ff ect . Red has al so the l atter qua l i ty as do most o therconspicuous shades . Wh i l e s tr ipes should. unde r no cons i derat ion be worn by a tal l , s l ende r person , pl aid s or mos t o therfigure s can be worn p rov ided there i s not too dec ided an up anddown to i t . A s tout figure i s apparen t ly he ightened with theu se O f st r ipes

,wh i l e any semblance o f a pl a id has exact ly the

oppos i t e re su l t . The figu re in the good s shou ld al so be smal land show a dec i ded tendency to the up and down . I t may beread i ly seen that th e same form O f d re ss i s not becom ing to al lfigures . The fitt i ng qual i ty , as i t we re , does not re s t , howeve r ,en t i rely wi th th e col o r as very much depend s upon the mannero f mak ing or sty l e o f the d res s .

Di ff e ren c e i n F i gures .

Whil e e legant s imp l i c i ty shou ld characte r i ze every detai lO f the d res s , the re are var ious degree s O f embel l i shment adaptabl e to d i ffe rent figure s varying acco rd ing to the proport ionsand grace O f the wearer . With th i s

,as wi th a l l other forms o f

d re ss , a garment that i s rendered unbecoming to the wearer because O f her figure can never be mad e to appear i n good sty l eno matte r how imperat ive the laws O f fash ion may be . Any

such garment w i l l have th e appearance o f be i ng out O f a l l h armony w i th al l such laws O f sty l e and fash i on .

Superb figures are many t ime s des t royed by an absurd arrangement i n d ress ; beaut i fu l faces made to look les s come lyby awkward head - dresses

,and fine compl ex ion s ru ined by an in

j ud icious cho ice O f co lors .Laws O f fash ion w il l o ftent ime s pe rmi t O f a great many

th ings seem ingly out O f harmony with the var ious rul es andregu l at ions o f fash ion

,and

,whi l e i t i s permi ss ib l e to fol low

the se ru les to a degree,i t shou ld be done under the st r ictes t sub

j ection to taste , that i t be not carr i ed to the extent O f f reak ishnes s . Obed ience should al so be g iven to the fundamental pr i ncip les govern i ng our i nd iv idual manner O f d ress , which c loseObservat ion w i ll do much toward teach ing .

Who has no t had her at tent ion cal l ed to a certa in styl e asbe ing espec i a l ly becoming to a person wh i l e anothe r has ap

peared r id icu lous in th e same cut O f garment . O r ig inal i ty i scerta inly des i rabl e , yet i t does not fo l low that Obse rvat ion i s unnecessary or that a woman may not be benefi ted by apply ingi ts var iou s l aws to herse l f .

One O f the rule s o f d res s O f ten seen and as O ften v io lated ,i s the wear ing O f ruffles by the short

,stout person . Th i s i s t rue

a l ike O f both wa i s t and sk i rt as both have the appearance o f

shor ten ing and thus making the figure stouter . Thi s i s a l so t rueo f flounces as a l l other forms O f t r imming wi th the t endencyto run around the garmen t . What canno t be worn by the stoutfigure may by the ta l l e r one be worn to the very best advantage .

The ta l l e r one i s al so abl e to carry very much more adornmen ti n the way O f j ewe l ry , laces , etc .

,and s t i l l mai nta i n her d ign i ty

and grace fu lne s s .

TO th e pe t i te woman i s g iven the feel ing that s h e can eve rappear smal l and da in ty but she must bea r i n mind that a greatmany O f the ru l es govern ing the stout woman ’s d re ss must a l soapp ly to he r , among these being the goring rathe r than too ful lsk i rts , and the absence O f flounces , etc . From her al so i s w i thhel d the flowing d rapery wh ich i s worn by the ta l le r figure to

such good e ffect . Thes e d raper i e s are not only becoming to theta l l

,s l ende r pe rson but m igh t be cons idered a neces s i ty in the

t ime s O f t igh t sl eeves . T ight s l eeve s w i thout t r imming are al

ways becoming to the fu l l form O f med ium heigh t or below .

Th ese two rul es w i l l be found to be eve r appl i cabl e and sa f eto fo l l ow

,first

,that any cut or t r imm ing w i th the tendency to

cut ac ros s the figure shou ld be avo ided by th e s tou t pe r son bu tmay be worn with sa fe ty by the ta l l and more maj est i c one ;

second,that st r i pes

,t r immings o r cut s runn ing lengthwi se are

worn wi th sa fe ty by th e s tout figure but shou l d be forevertabooed by the tal l

,s l ende r one .

Much has a l ready been sa id concern ing the cho ice o f garmen t to be worn by elder ly peopl e

,we w i l l there fore con ten t ou r

selves by sound ing but a word o f warn ing . I t does not fol l owthat

,because one s ees a young

,pl ump gi r l d ressed i n the decol

l ete fash ion cons i st ing O f short s l eeves and low cu t neck,

an elderly person can reflect her image w i th any th ing l ike succes s and shou l d sh e at tempt to do so , she cannot expect to ap

pear anyth ing but r id icu lous .

E conomy and th e Dres s .

A th ing that economy shou l d teach a person , though un

fortunately does not always do,i s that where one has l im i ted

means on wh ich to d re ss,th e se l ect ion O f th e mater ial and s tyl e

shou ld be with a v i ew to bei ng neat rather than el aborate . Ment ion has he reto fore been made o f th is w i th regard to hats andthe same ru les shou ld be as care ful ly app l ied to al l deta i l s O fd re ss . Th i s i s done not alone wi th the idea O f economy bu t w i ththe v i ew to be ing wel l d res sed . Th ree rul es that wi l l ever app l y

“

to th e se l ect ion o f dres s a re , fi r st,invest always in one pattern

O f good goods rather than two patt erns o f an in fer ior qual i ty;s econd , when th e number O f d res se s i s l im i ted to only a few

in a season,l et them be o f a co lor not to att ract attent ion or ap

pear consp icuous . How O ften one hears the remark about somecertain red o r pu rpl e d res s

,

“ I neve r see that woman bu t whatsh e has on that d res s . Th i rd

,that a d res s or garmen t o f any

k ind be made up in a sty l e not to a tt ract at tent ion . For i l l u s

tration , avo id putt ing wh i t e t r imm ing on a dark b lue d ress , or

red on a bl ack one, excep t f or ch i ldren or m i s ses . Trimm ingswou ld be in better tast e i f se l ected f rom a good grade O f s i lk

,

velvet o r braid that would match as nearly as poss ibl e the colo rO f good s .

These same ru l es shou ld be adhered to i n accesso r i es o f al lk ind s . Avo id by a l l means cheap

,t rashy art i c les or mater ial .

B eware O f the p revai l ing co lors that are i n today and out tomorrow and O f ornament s or feathers that

,wh i le i n styl e th i s

season w i l l taboo the hat or dres s as a back number i f worn nex tseason . I t i s always sa fe to remember that the dai nt i e r thetr imm ing the bette r th e taste .

Al l rul es given above shoul d be espec ia l ly fo l lowed by person O f unsymmetr i ca l or de formed figure o r face

,as to do other

w i se tend s on ly to emphas i z e or exagge rate the de fect . One

shou ld a l so not se l ect too pre t ty a garment O f any kind eventhough bl es sed w i th an un l im i ted amoun t o f money

,as a pretty

d re ss o r hat or even j ewe l ry wi l l attrac t and thu s cal l attent ionto the form and face where i t wou ld perhaps othe rwi se pas s umnot i ced .

We would a l so ca l l to you r attent ion th e wear ing O f new

and old or gorgeous and p lain garment s togethe r . As for instance

,how Often do we see a r ich and showy hat worn wi th a

very cheap or o l d gown , or a gorgeous coat worn over a pl a ind re ss . These combinat ions o ften form the most t ry ing con trastsand should be by al l means avo ided .

Col lars .

Probably no one th ing adds to or detract s f rom the lookso f the face as does the co l lar wi th the poss ib l e except ion of thehat . I t has ever been an enigma why the short , fleshy person

wi th short neck and broad face wi l l pe rs is t i n wear i ng the fluf fy ,b i l lowy col l ar that compl ete ly h ides the neck

,creat ing the im

press ion that the ch in start s where the neck rea l ly ough t to beg in .

I t w i l l al so never cease to be a wonder why these same peopl ewi l l put around the i r neck a col lar tha t i s much too h igh andwh ich causes them. to look choked and stu ffy as wel l as beingexceed ingly uncomfortabl e . A person w i th a doubl e ch in should,regard les s o f sty l e

, gO the farthes t way around the flu ffy col

l ar O f ch i ff on or lace as wel l as al l col ored col la rs , unl es s i t beO f a dec ided st r ipe

,th e st r ipes as we a l ready know hav ing a

tendency to apparen t ly l engthen the proport ions o f the figu re .

Such t i es as are worn by these persons shou ld be ou'

the narrow

or str ing order,and rathe r than be ing t ied in a bow shou ld ,

regard l es s o f fash ion,be t i ed i n a fou r - in—hand or with stand ing

loop and long ends . Th i s has the e ffect O f br inging out the upand down l ines o f the face or , as i t w ere , cont i nu ing the l i ne

o f the nose to the extent o f counteract ing the unusua l broad

l i ne s O f the face . The col o r O f th e t i e al so p lays i t s par t inchanging th e appearance o f the ch in and neck inasmuch a s a

l igh t colo red t i e on a l igh t wai s t i s not marked enough to br ingout th e l i ne s wh ich are made pos s ibl e w i th the bl ack t ie . Whenselect ing a t i e choose one that w i l l form a dec i ded l ine when t ied .

The fo rego ing be ing the ru l e wi th the stou t per son i t i s Obv iousthat the s l ender person w i th the long neck has absol ute ly nobus ines s w i th th e s tr iped col l ar or the l ong s tr ing t ie . She may ,though

,have h er h eart ’s des i re O f th e flu ffy

,b i l l owy col l ars

,as

these in appearance cut short the l ines o f th e face .

So ft laces or ruch ings around the neck or arms on a youngperson have the e ffect o f so ften ing the l ine s and g iv ing a dain tyfini sh to th e sk in .

Th e Ha i r .

Li tt l e has been sa i d concern ing the d ress ing O f the h a i r butas so much in the looks o f a hat depend s upon th i s subj ect weshal l here i n lay down a few rul es that in the maj or i ty o f cases

are sa fe to fo l l ow . The d ress ing O f the ha i r should always bedone w i th the idea o f being becom ing regard l es s O f what thefash ion may be . Never attemp t to fol l ow the fash ion

'

o f theday un l es s such mode be part icular l y su i ted to one ’s ind iv i dualstyl e O f beauty , as noth ing i s styl i sh i f unbecoming . A veryround face shou ld avo i d part ing the ha i r in the midd l e

,the ha i r

kep t we l l b ru shed back f rom the forehead and when poss ibl ei t shou ld be arranged on top O f the head . A broad brow shouldal so fol low these rul es espec ial ly keep ing the hai r wel l away fromthe temp l e s . A low brow cal l s f or a cl ean forehead bu t wi tha few wavy locks over the temple . A reced ing brow or foreheadshou l d be l e ss ened by arranging the ha i r in a flu ff y manner uponthe forehead , wh i l e th e h igh cheek bones are great ly mod ifiedby combing the ha i r ove r the t emp les . A smal l taper ing ch inshould not be accentuated by furth er add ing to the s id es o f thehead the w idth O f flu ff y ha i r ,

i

wh ile w i th a square cu t j aw th i sis pe rmi s s ib l e . These are a few o f th e ru l e s l a id down ; however ,a l i t t l e exper i ence w i l l t each one those bes t su i ted to her ind ividual s ty l e .

Mourn ing .

I t i s very d i fficul t to l ay down ru l es to be adhered to in thematter O f dres s f or mourn ing

,as d i ffe ren t author i t ies d i sagree

on the convent iona l d res s f or th i s pu rpose . I t i s sa fe to say ,

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

S imp l i c i ty and Harmony .

S impl ic i ty and harmony should character ize every woman’sdress

,as ext remes are always in execrable tas te and shou l d by al l

means be avo ided .

I t i s not a lone w i th hats we wou ld impres s upon you theneces s i ty o f care ful and rat i onal choos ing o f colors , as the e ffec to f a becoming hat i s en t i rely lo st am i d a chaot ic group o f inh ar

mon ious color s .

Every color to be used w i th the d res s in any manner , shou ldgo th rough

,as i t were

,a pe r iod o f probat ion be fore be ing select

ed . The weare r should fir s t cons i der whether or not i t be becom ing to her compl ex ion

,ha i r and eyes ; what , i f any , wou ld

be th e e ffect o f th e colo r or comb inat ion o f color s upon herfigure ; and last ly i f i t would pe r fect l y harmon i ze wi th o thergarments s h e might have occas ion to wear .

I t . i s not necessary that i t prove i tsel f unqual ified in eacho f these part icul ars ; one alone be ing a j us t reason why the colo rshould not be cons i dered , bu t should be at once and f or al l t imesrej ec ted .

An un iversal fai l ing among women has eve r been to con

s i der only the beauty or ugl ines s o f a garmen t a s i t appea red ini t sel f , whol ly forget ful that wh i l e a certain ar t icl e may cause oneperson to appear as a queen

,i t may cause another to appear

r id i cu lous , i f n ot even lud ic rous . Th i s,however

,does not de te r

them o ft ent imes f rom Obta in ing one such garmen t , s imp ly because i t had looked wel l upon another , even though to don i tmay be at the sac r ifice O f al l o r igi na l i ty and personal beauty .

Cou ld the one thought be impres sed upon the mind s o f ourr eaders and they in tu rn be pe rsuaded to act upon i t

,th i s sub

j ect a lone m igh t wel l be cons idered to be wor th al l our efforts .Th i s though t , that a garmen t may be eve r so r ich and fash ionabl e in i ts make up ; i t s qual i ty eve r so fine , and i ts comb inat ionO f color s ever so harmon ious i n themsel ves

,but i f i t be unbecom

ing to the comp l ex ion and figure O f the wearer,i ts imp res s ion

upon an Observe r i s unfavorabl e and o ftent imes to the exten t o fbeing pain ful . The garment may

,on the othe r hand

,become

the compl ex ion , as do the var ious t r imm ings u s ed in i t s makeup ,st i l l , i f the colors are inharmon ious among themselves , the impress ion made i s again un favorabl e . The eff ect o f th i s un favorab le impres s ion i s d i fficul t to unders tand by even our fr iendsbu t i t may be eas i ly expl a ined in th i s way ' Natu re never intended us to look upo n inharmon ious groups o f colo rs

,el se why

wou l d her combinat i on s a l l be in such per fect harmony' Notewith what p rec i s ion th e rai nbow and the flowers pas s from one

colo r to another . From these exampl es are we not free to con

el ude that the nature beauty inst inct w ith in us rebel s aga ins t suchwho l e sa le t ran sgres s ion o f her l aws '

A One Co l or Foun da tion .

A very sa fe way , and one not l ikely to mee t w i th d i scordanteffect in the harmon iz ing O f co lors w i th re fe rence to d res s

,i s

to se lect a ce rta in co lor that meet s w i th a l l o f the requ i rements ,i nc lud ing the comp l ex ion

,eyes

,etc .

,and with th i s colo r make a

foundat ion upon wh ich a l l future se l ect ions are to be made . Onewi l l be surp r i sed at the comparat ively short t ime be fore th i scolo r w i l l permeate every feature O f the dress thus do ing awayw i th the poss ib i l i ty O f inharmon ious e ffect s between one garmen tand anothe r . TO i l lust rate ' In the summer a person be i ng o f

fa i r compl ex ion obtain s a number O f l ight wai sts w i th a toucho f bl ue runn ing through them i n e i the r the figure or t r imm ing .

The neck wear i s bought o r made wi th the idea O f harmon i z i ngw i th these wai st s . ' ow the woman goes to th e sto re and knowing that a r ich lavender looks wel l .w ith a l ight compl ex ion

,and

i t being th e preva i l ing shade O f the season,s h e Obta ins a su i t o f

that co lor,and w i th what re su l t ' Sh e finds upon re turn ing to

he r home that no t one o f those wai st s o r co l l ars w i l l l ook wel lw i th the su i t

,and that sh e must e i the r wear that combinat i on O f

color s or inves t in a new supply O f wai st s and neck wear .Even w i th a foundat ion to work upon

,one must exerc i se

extreme care as two co lors may per fect ly harmon ize w i th an

other and st i l l not h aimon i z e with each other,as f or i l lustrat ion '

l ight b lue per fect ly h armonizes w i th go ld,as does gol d wi th

pu rp le , st i l l th e blue and purpl e are od iou s when p laced togethe r .I t should a l so be remembered that a cer ta in shade may be out

Of harmony with a co lor wh i le another shad e o f the same colormay harmonize w i th i t though perhaps imper fect ly . We wou ldal so have you bear i n mind that because several shades or co lorsper fect ly harmon ize , i t does not nece s sar i ly fol low that a l l o fthose shades may be worn at the same t ime wi th good taste ande ffect

,as too many o r a pro fus ion O f co lors

,becomes glar ing to

the eye and overreaches a l l bound s O f s imp l i c i ty and neatnes s .Anoth er

'

rule that shou ld be Observed in th e s e lect ion or

tr imm ing O f a d ress or hat,i s not t o associate d i ffe rent hues O f

the same colo r ; as for i l l u st rat ion , blue - green and ye l low - green,

or pu rp le and orange - brown , as these are as a ru l e much moret ry ing to the eye than inharmon iou s oppos i tes . In order to avo idth i s

,care must be taken in se lect ing mate ri a l s that they be a l l O f

th e same shade or on the same order o f colo r,as to deviat e

from th i s i s l ike ty ing a sa lmon colored r i bbon around a buncho f red popp i es and expect ing them to harmon iz e .

Neatnes s and s impl e e l egance shou ld be our motto in everymanner o f d ress , as a p rom i scuou s us e o f colo rs i s an ou trageto modesty and grace and shoul d there fore be avo ided .

Co lors by Di ff er ent L i gh ts

Another subj ec t o f importance and one espec ial ly to be obs erved in the buy ing O f mater ial s O f any kind , i s the e ffect o fthe l igh t upon the d i ffe ren t col or s ; as , f or ins tance , shades thatappear to be in pe r fect harmony w i th each other by the l ightO f day

,are somet imes rende red dec i ded ly d i sagreeable by the

gas or art ific ial l igh t,and v i ce versa . The e ffect O f the l igh t

upon d i ffe rent shade s al so makes i t imposs ibl e f or a person tomatch colo rs in th e even ing though they be o f the same mater ial , as the l igh t s tr ik i ng th e goods a t a d i ff eren t angle , be i tever so smal l

,renders th e shades d ifficu l t to determine .

The d i ffe ren t l ight s have al so much to do w i th the br i ll iancy and l u s tre '

o f good s , as where some lose the i r br i l l iancyby the gas

,other s are rendered more br i l l ian t by th i s art ific i al

l igh t . I t i s,th ere fore

,obv ious that i t i s ne i ther w i se nor sa fe

to t ru s t to the even ing l igh t f or the match ing or harmon iz ing o f

colo rs,and for th e same reason i t i s unw i se to sel ect or dec ide

on a p iece O f mate r ia l to be used exc lus ive ly for even ing wearwithout fi rs t s ee ing i t by the even ing l igh t .

Be fore the woman attempt s to use any'

or iginal i deas in thecons truct ion o f a hat or d res s , a thorough s tudy and mastery o f

the ar t O f bl end ing colo rs i s adv i sed , as to do otherwis e , i s bothunwi s e and unsa fe .

A few rul es are g iven below wh ich w i l l be O f use to thewoman in pursu ing he r work .

Co lors t h a t Harmon i ze .

B lue and orange harmon ize .

Ligh t - blue and choco late harmon ize .

Chocolate and pea- green harmon iz e .

B l ue and green harmon ize .

Green and ye l l ow harmon ize .

Ye l l ow and bl ack harmon ize .

Yel low and red harmon ize .Deep red and gray harmoni ze .

Deep blue and go lden brown harmon ize.

Cr imson and drab harmon ize .

Cr imson and orange harmon iz e .

Scar le t and blue harmon ize .

L i l ac and scarl e t harmon iz e .

Bu ff and cla re t harmon i ze .

Deep - blu e and maroon harmon ize .

S late - co lor and scar l et harmoni ze .

Red and wh i t e harmon ize .

Gray and red harmon ize .

Ye l low and v io l et harmon ize .

Pal e - green and v iole t harmon ize .

Warm - green and maroon harmon iz e .

Black and scarl et harmon ize .

Drab and bl ue harmon iz e .Blue and wh i te harmon i ze .Gray and b lue harmon i ze .

O range and brown harmoni ze .

B l ack and warm - green harmonize .

Pink and deep blue harmon ize .

B l ack and warm brown harmon ize .Salmon—colo r and blue harmon ize .

B lue and ma ize harmon ize .

B l ue and b lack. harmon ize .

Purpl e and sa lmon harmon iz e .

P ink and blue a poor harmony .

Cr imson and wh i te harmon ize .

B l ack and orange harmon ize .

P ink and wh i t e harmon i ze .

Scarle t and wh i te harmoni ze .

Cr imson and l i l ac harmon ize .

Bl ack and wh i te harmon i ze .

Scarlet and orange harmon ize .

B l ue and s t raw - colo r harmon ize .

Cr imson and purpl e harmon i ze .

Hel iot rope and green harmon ize .

Ye l l ow and pu rpl e harmon i ze .

Brown and wh i te harmonize .

Blue and brown harmon ize .

Green and sca rl e t harmon ize .

Maize and cr imson harmon ize .

Ma ize and purpl e harmon i ze .

Pu rpl e and orange harmon ize .

Yel low and brown harmon ize .

Purp l e and lemon harmon ize .

Purpl e and bu ff harmonize .

Comb inat ions o f Co lor Th a t Harmon i z e .

Blue,bl ack and orange harmoniz e .

Green , orange and red harmon ize .

O range,green and b lue harmon ize .

Scar l et,pu rp l e and orange harmon ize .

Scarle t,bl ue and orange harmon ize .

Whi te,scarl et and bl ue harmon ize .

Green,scar le t and bl ue harmon iz e .

Scarl et,purpl e and wh i t e harmon i z e .

Yel low,l i l ac and wh i te harmon ize .

Yel low,l i lac

,scarl et and wh i te harmon ize .

Yel low,blue and scarl e t harmon ize .

B lue,gray and scarl et harmon i ze .

Yell ow,blue

,bl ack and scar l et harmon i ze .

B rown,green and yel low harmon iz e .

Green,scarl e t and wh i te harmon ize .

Wh i te,scarle t and yel l ow harmoni ze .

Yel low,bl ack and scarl e t harmon ize .

Red,gold and bl ack harmon i ze.

Blue,brown and gold harmon i ze .

Blue,brown and c r imson harmon i ze.

Pu rpl e,s carl e t and blu e harmon i ze .

Black,yel low

,scarl e t and pu rp l e harmon i ze .

Pu rp l e,yel low and scarl e t harmon ize .

Cr imson,gold and brown harmon i ze .

Cr imson , l i l ac and gold harmon i ze .

L i l ac , scarl e t and wh i te harmon i ze .

L i l ac,scarl e t and black harmon i ze .

B lack,bu ff and salmon harmon ize .

L i l ac , c r imson and orange h armon ize .

Black,wh i te and cr imson harmon ize .

Black,wh i te and ye l low harmon ize .

B lu e,black

,scarl et and orange harmoni ze .

B l ack,d rab and salmon harmon ize .

Bl ack,bu ff and purpl e harmon ize .

Blue,scarl e t , green and whi te harmoni ze .

Pu rpl e , scar le t, green , yel low harmon i z e .

Pu rpl e,salmon

,wh i te harmon i z e .

Bu ff , s almon and green harmon i ze .

L i l ac , salmon and bu ff harmon i ze .

P ink , green and l i l ac harmon ize .Scarl et

,purpl e

,orange and green harmon i z e .

Pu rpl e,scarl et

,yel l ow and blue harmon ize .

Pu rpl e,salmon

,yel low and whi te h armon ize .

Bu ff , s car l et and green harmon i z e .Gold

,green and hel iotrope harmon ize .

Further cons iderat ion wi l l be g iven to colors w i th re ferencethe compl ex ion . See Art o f Dre s s ing Wel l .

Making th e Hat

The re - making and re— t r imm ing O f a hat i s in i t sel f a veryi nte res t ing subj ec t and requ i re s not so much a techn ical know ledge O f mi l l inery

,as a natural or acqui red tas te and th e ab i l i ty

to app ly the same in the remodel ing or const ruct i on o f the hat .

As has been sa id , a we l l fi t t ing and becom ing hat i s themost e s sent ia l po in t in the const ruct ion o f mi l l i nery

,as the tr im

ming loses ent i re ly i t s e ffect i f p laced upon a hat unbecom ing tothe weare r . I t should

,there fore

,be remembered that th e f rame

i tsel f i s what gives to the hat i t s grace fu l l ines,form and s tyl e

,

and wi thout these fundamental l i nes to bu i l d upon,the t r imm ing

can neve r be placed wi th the e ffect o f be i ng becom ing or nobby .

I t i s a mi stake to feel that the hat can be pu t together in as l ip— shod way w i th th e idea o f u t i l i z ing the t r imm ing to coverup such de fects as may be made in the cons truct ion O f the foundat ion . The fol ly O f th i s l i es in the fact tha t invar iably when th i si s made necessary

,the tr imming i s brought f rom i ts natural or

grace ful l ines in to sharp ang l es or fan tast ic shapes,mak ing i t

Obv ious to the Observe r that there i s e i the r a de fect in the hat ori n the t r imm ing i tsel f .

There a re t imes,however , in the mak ing over o f a hat , when

one runs short o f foundat ion mater ial ; the pl an bes t to fo l l owin a case O f th i s k ind i s to study the cur rent sty le s and thu sascerta in where th e t r imm ings are most popu larly pl aced f orthe season

,tak ing care that such s tyl e i s becoming to the wearer .

In th i s way i t i s made poss ibl e f or the shortage to come in apl ace thus read i ly covered w i thout los ing i ts e ffect or grace fulness . Th i s subj ect w i l l be further d i scussed under the head O fTr imming The Hat .

Mak i n g th e W i re F rame .

There was a t ime in the mil l i nery bus iness when the tr immerwas expected to cons truct as wel l as tr im each ind iv idual f rame ,they be ing he ld

,when so l d at a l l

,at exorbi tan t pr ices and at that

only the mos t common ones be ing obta inabl e . That t ime haspass ed

,as they can now be purchased in any des i rab l e shape a t

but l i t t l e in advance O f the pr ice o f making and th i s w i th a vastsav ing Of t ime and pat ience .

I t i s neces sary,however , tha t the woman be fam i l iar with

at l eas t the making O f the mos t common frame or what i s knownas the flat frame

,in ord er that sh e may al ter o r repa i r a hat in

an intel l igent manner .

To beg in wi th , th e f rame i s s tarted w i th what i s known asthe h eadw ire wh ich i s the wi re placed at the base o f the crown .

Th i s wi re i s cu t 22 in . l ong,l apped and j o ined in a c i rcl e meas

u ring 1 8 i n . then fastened by wrapp ing around each othe r or

with what i s ca l l ed a t i e - wi re, ' O . I . A wi re i s then cut 54 i n .

in length , l apped and

j o ined in a 48—in .

c i rc l e,th i s to be used

for the edge O f thebr im , ' O . 2 . Lap 3

piece O f wi re 29 ins .long un t i l i t measures23 i n s . and thus se

cure ly fasten . Th i si s what i s te rmed a brace w i re

, ' O . 3 . Afte r th i s another w i rei s cu t 22 ins . long , l apped pas t and fastened i n an I 8— in .

c i rcl e,

to be used f or th e top O f th e c rown , ' O . 4 . ' ow cut fou r

p ieces O f wi re each 22 ins . long as A,B

,C

,D . These a re

known as d iv i s ional w i res . These fou r w i res are j o ined exact lyin the m iddle by wrappi ng one O f the w i re s ent i re ly around theothe r th ree at a point E . They are then sp read an equal distance apart . Three i nche s i s then measu red on each O f thesewi res f romth e po int E

,wh en they are each wrapped around

wi re ' O . 4 . Measure two i nches down for the he ight O f the

c rown and wrap around th e head —w i re or ' O . I,and then bend

out f or the brim . Measure two and one—hal f inches on wi re Aas we l l as a l l correspond ing w i re s and wrap around w i re 3 .

Another two inches i s measured on these w i res when they arethen wrapped around the edge w i re or ' O . 2 . These connect ionsare made more secure by us ing a pa i r o f n ippers . Care shouldbe taken th at the w i res A

,B

,C and D

,are kept an equal d i s

tance apart and that the p l ace s O f l app ing wi res I , 2, 3 , and 4 ,

be in the back O f th e hat . Should the f rame be unusual ly l argeo r seem weak , another brace w i re may be used to hol d i t i ns h ap e . Th i s f rame has what i s known as the 1 8 - in . c rown

,an

ord inary s i ze and one adaptab l e to the fit t ing o f most heads .

Shou l d a large r crown be des i red i t i s we l l to make an extraand l arge r one in the same manner as desc r ibed above and fasten

i t secu rel y to th e f rame over the inne r crown, as

to use the l arge r one alone would al low the hat toextend too far over th e h ead .

After the f rame i s comp l e ted and be fore cov

e r i ng , i t should be placed upon the head and th e w i res adj u stedthat i t may fee l and set comfor tably in p lace .

A fter a care ful study or a l i t t l e exper i ence w i th the aboved i rect ions , i t w i l l be found to be an easy matte r to ad j us t or

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For the top o f the c rown , a round or Oblong p iece O f buckram i s cut

,acco rd ing to the shape de s i red

,and be ing abou t one

hal f inch l arger than the Open ing . The exact s i ze o f the opening may be Obta ined by turn ing th e crown over and t rac i ng thebuckram w ith a penc i l on the inner s ide O f the c rown . After

sl i ts have been made in th i s ext ra hal f inch to w ith in a s ixteen thO f an inch f rom the penc i l mark

,the top i s c reased to the exact

s ize O f the Open ing or on th e penc i l mark . The turned downedge conta in ing the sl i ts i s then placed in the top o f the crown

and the same bast ed to the s i des from th e outs ide . Th i s ext rastay ing in the top O f the c rown help s to keep i ts shape and takesthe p l ace O f a w i re .

These foundat ions a re , O f cours e , w i red around the edgewhen they may then be ben t into almost any grace ful shape or

styl e .

Should the buckram fai l to s t retch the requ i red amoun t a fterth e i nc i s ions are made

,such part s may be dampened a very l i tt l e

when i t may be read i ly brough t to the requ i red shape .

Wi th th i s as w i th al l othe rs , th e f rame should be mad e to setcom fortab ly upon. the head . TO do th i s i t may be found neces

sary to w i re i t around th e lower edge O f the crown and by mean so f th i s ad j u st the crown to the head .

The sp r ing , summer and autumn seasons m i gh t be cons ideredthe mos t econom ical fo r the home m i l l i ne r

,perm i t t ing

,as they do

,

O f a great many comb inat ions o f st raw , taff e ta and ch i ffon or

other so f t mater ial s wh ich may be worked up very n icely andeconomical ly togeth er .

The comb inat ion o f the st raw br im with a crown O f finelypleated or sh i rred ch i ffon or a taffeta br im w i th a s traw crown

,

are very good as wel l a s pract ical examples O f th i s .Very pract i ca l and pretty c rowns may be mad e O f mi l l iner ’s

net,ar ranged into d i ffe ren t so ft shapes and covered w i th ch i ffon

or othe r so ft mate ri a l s . TO do th i s , take a large square o f ne t ,with rounded corners

,and

pl eat th i s edge into thecrown Open i ng O f the br im .

I f a Tam—O—S h anter i s d e

s i red it shou l d be l e ft flat,

wh i l e for a stand ing crown,

i t should be wi red wi thfou r smal l brace w i res

,

p l aced i n th e f ront , s i de s and back to hol d i t in pos i t i on.They

shou ld not be made to stand too s t i ff e l se they wi l l lose much O f

the i r grace fu l e ffect . The st i ffe r or bet te r the crape net the les sw i r i ng w i l l be requ i red for the var ious crowns and shapes .

To prepare a ha t for a ch i ffon,l ace or a l l taffeta cove r ing

,

may be done by dampen ing a p iece o f ne t and l ay ing upon th isthe w i re f rame to be covered . The moi stu re in the net wi l l adm i tO f i t s bei ng st retched into most any des i rabl e shape by s implypu l l i ng i t h ard toward th e bias . Whi l e th i s i s be ing done

,i t

Shoul d be care ful ly and even ly p inned to th e frame , a fter wh ichi t can be read i ly sewed and then covered wi th the mater ial to beused for the outs ide . The net in the brim may be made fi rmerby u s ing a hot i ron in d rying . The crown can be made acco rd ingto prev iou s descr ipt ions or as l ater descr ibed .

Th e S em i - Tai l ore d Hat .

What might be cons i dered the most pract i cal as wel l a s themost economical hat i n th e l i ne O f mi l l i nery i s what i s known asthe sem i — ta i lo red hat . The re appear to be as many d iverse waysO f const ruct ing th i s l i t t l e hat as there are fa i r ones to wear i t

,

as i t i s,genera l ly speaking

,a favor i t e , and each creat ion seem ingly

vie s w i th the one be fore i t f or pract i cab i l i ty and grace fu l nes s .These hats are made f rommater i a l s vary ing in pr ice andtexture and may be mad e overany des i red shape or foundat ionaccord ing to th e tas te o f th e ind iv i dua l . The cloth

,velve t

,s i l k

or other mater ial us ed i n theconst ruct ion O f th i s hat i s usual lycut w i th th e idea o f d rap ingrathe r than c losely cove r ing the

f rame and i s,the re fore

,cu t i nto d i ffe rent shapes accord i ng to

the amount O f mater i al on hand . The regulat ion patte rn,when

new mater ia l i s be ing used i s usual ly round,th i s be ing the shape

most conven ient to use . These are known to the m i l l iner as“pl ateaux .

' O f course th i s mate r i al makes a cover ing for theent i re upper br im and c rown w i th the pos s ibl e except i on o f a

velve t pip ing or fini sh ing around the edge O f the br im,wh i l e

the lower br im may be fin i shed smooth ly w i th taffeta or otherdes i red mater ial .

In draping th i s hat , great care shou ld be taken that the material fal l s grace ful ly around the crown and that the fold s l aynatural rather than pu l l ing f rom one fold into another .

To Ra ise or Low er th e Crown .

I t becomes necessary many t imes in the hand l ing O f m i l l ine ryto al ter the hat s on hand and wh ich are l e ft from the prev iou sseason

,to the p reva i l ing styl e o f the season a t hand . A large

expense i s saved in th i s way,as o f ten t imes the ra i s ing o f a

crown or the w iden ing o f a br im or v i ce ve rsa may be the meanso f sav ing an expens ive bra id or shape . Th i s i s not d ifficu l t todo and may be done by a l i t tl e care fu l s tudy .

TO ra i se a c rown,cu t around the s ides w i th in an inch or so

from the top ,then cu t a piece o f buckram abou t an inch w ider

than th e amoun t neces sary f or the requ i red w id th and longenough to fi t with in the crown ; sew th i s w i th long st i tches on theins ide O f the top and lower p i eces o f the c rown and then coverthe exposed p iece o f buckram w i th a bi as fo l d O f velvet or s i lk .

To l ower a crown,go abou t i t in much the same way , only

a fte r remov ing the top port i on o f the crown,cu t Off the requ i red

amount f rom the part O f the c rown le ft on th e hat and thenpl ace the upper ove r the lower por t ion and in th i s manner sewtogether .

To widen a br im,cu t a fi tted p iece f rom a flat p i ece o f buck

ram,and sew th i s to the ou ter edge o f the br im , a ft e r wh ich

i t i s wi red and faced back on the upper and l ower s ides wi th a

p i ece o f sat i n or othe r mater ial . Th i s fac ing i s cu t on th e b iasand in one p iece w i de enough to come over the edge onto boththe upper and l ower s ides

,where the edges are thu s tu rned under

and bl ind st i tched to the h at cover ing .

O f cou rse,where the ha t i s not covered and the foundat ion

al one i s be ing a l te red,the en t i re hat may be covered as though

the br im were in one p i ece,but where the hat i s covered and then

the ext ra w idth des i red,the fac ing i s necessary

,as to take the

hat apar t i s d ifficu l t and i s unneces s ary work,as a wel l pu t on

fac i ng makes a d ec idedly pre tty fin i sh to the hat .

To narrow a br im i t i s , a s a ru l e , suffic ien t to cut o ff therequ i red amoun t

,wire and b ind or p ipe th e edge w i th vel vet ,

s i lk o f other mater i a l .

I f a w i re f rame , the ou ts ide wi re may be removed and thebrace w i res fastened to the fi rst w i re back f rom the edge .

A l i tt l e p ract ice w i l l make i t poss ibl e f or one to make des i redchanges with bu t very l i tt l e i f any cos t .

Preparlng th e Hat for TrimmingI n prepar ing the hat for t r imming

,we have firs t to cons ide r

th e cover ing O f the foundat ions as des cr ibed i n the forego inglessons , as we l l a s var ious others , one might have occas ion touse i n the i r bus ine s s career .

TO beg in wi th,i f the foundat ion des i red to be covered i s an

Old one, i t should be wel l looked over and the necessary repai rsmade be fore attempt ing to use i t ; as f or i nstance , a w i re f ramewi th j o in ts fas tened w i th t i e - w i re in stead o f being wrappedaround

,i nvar iably need s repa i r s at th e end o f the firs t season

and be fore be ing used a second season . Thi s must be done

thorough ly w i th the use O f more wi re and a pa i r o f n ippe rs,that

the f rame may be prepared to hold i ts shape throughou t th efo l low ing season.

Then too the buckram frame has i ts need for repa i r s , aso ftent imes the br im lose s i t s st i f f nes s o r the c rown becomes bentor pushed in at the top

,in wh ich case i t shou ld be b locked and

p ressed as descr ibed in l es son n ine . St i ffnes s may be given to

th e buckram by laying a wet cloth over the c rown and press ingth i s un t i l dry . The cloth should be used , as the d re ss ing st icksto th e i ron when hot . The br im i s pressed in the same way wi ththe excep t ion o f be ing la id upon a flat su r face in place O f theblock . Afte r th i s i s done , should the br im be st i l l incl ined tod roop

,i t may be wi red once or tw ice accord ing to the shape and

cond i t ion O f the f rame . Cotton wi re may be used fo r th i s purpose

,be ing ent i re ly conceal ed by the mater i a l used f or cover ing

the hat . Fork s may al so be used in hold ing the buckram br imin p lace .

S t r eng th en ing th e Crow n and B r im .

I t i s ve ry d ifficu l t to c l ean any o f thefiner st raws such as th e

Leghorn,ch ip or Mi lan wi thout get t ing them in a measure ou t

O f shape . Th i s i s much eas i e r to avo id than to rect i fy . I t i s ,there fore

,w i se to u se every precaut ion in cl ean ing thes e bra ids

not to ge t them too wet , and , dur ing the proces s o f cl ean ing, tohandl e them as l i t t l e as pos s ibl e .

The c rown i s th e most d ifficu l t part to deal w ith dur ing thec lean ing p roces s

,bu t be ing the most es sent i al part , i t i s wel l to

know how to re sto re i t to i t s o r ig inal form .

The hat necessar i l y l ose s i t s fo rmer head - l ines upon be ingwet and i f new ones are not formed th e neces s i ty for ho ld ingand pu l l ing i t i n order to keep i t on th e head w i l l soon get i t outo f al l pos s ib le shape .

Set th e hat upon the head and i f i t does not set fi rm or seems

wabb ly i t shou l d be st rengthened by a narrow band O f capenet ,

wi red on each s id e and placed w ith in the crown . Th i s i s es sential ly the same as the bandeau used for th i s purpose . Another

way i s to sew two rows O f wide r ibbon brace - wi re on the outs i deO f th e c rown from a hal f to an inch apart and cove r th i s w i tha bias fol d O f so ft mate r ial or one O f th e many othe r ways tofin i sh the c rown .

A poor crown caused f rom hatp in s may be st rengthened inthe former way

,except that the band O f capenet shou ld be the

h eight O f the c rown . I t i s then wi red

and fastened secure ly wi th in . I f th i si s s ecured both at the top and bottom ,

the s t raw may be cut f rom around thes i des O f the crown

,th at the ma ter i al

c lo se r .The br im

,as a rule

,needs some attent ion

,u sual ly i n the way

O f wi r ing . Thi s may be done by sewing one strong w i re to thel ower

,and to with in about an inch of the out s ide edge O f the

br im ; or two Sma l l w i res may be used , sew ing one on th e unders ide and the othe r about a hal f inch nearer the crown and on

the upper s ide o f the br im . When the two w i res are used theyare usua l ly put neare r the edge and then covered w i th a bind ingo f l ight we ight mater ial or w i th a so ft qu i l l i ng made O f a b iasp i ece O f ne t or so f t good s pu t on in the shape O f a puffing . TOO

heavy mater ial shou l d not be used on th e edge as the st iff nes sin the hat w i l l not ho ld the weigh t and keep i ts shape .

When not covered , s i l k w i re , the colo r O f the hat , i s u sedand should be care ful ly sewed by means O f l ong loose s t i tches

,

caugh t t o th e under s i de o f the w i re and then in to the ha t . Thej o in ing i s made in the back by pass ing the w i re by abou t an i nchand fasten ing .

Forks .

Fork s are a l so used to ho ld the so f t bra ids in shape.

as we l la s be ing a conven ient means by wh ich to al ter such shape . These

are made O f fine,s i l k r ibbon w i re

,extend ing out f rom the base

O f th e c rown and on the und ers i de O f th e br im to from four tos ix inches , accord ing to th e s izeO f the hat , u sual ly be ing al lowedt o come to wi th in about twoinche s O f the outs ide edge . The

w ire i s t h e n ben t i n a smal l h a l f c i rc l e and b rough t b ack to th ecrown and fastened . The se wi res are i nv i s ib ly caught to thehat by means O f a fine th read .

After the hat i s success fu l ly c l eaned,pres sed and wi red

,

i t i s la id as i de and the prepar ing O f the t r imming begun .

S ew i n g th e S t raw B ra i d .

I n sel ect ing the st raw brai d to be used,i t shou ld be done

wi th th e i dea O f economy,not i n pr i ce

,but i n the value o f the

braid . A cheap bra id i s one O f the most expens ive o f art ic l es ,as the dye s used are o f an in fe r ior qual i ty thus caus ing i t tofade under the fi rst rays o f th e sun . A cheap braid i s a l sobr i t t l e and breaks bad ly in hand l ing , making i t unfi t to be useda second t ime . On the othe r hand

,a so ft bra i d may be used

and sewed over a number O f seasons be fore need ing even to becolo red .

Afte r the frame has been secure ly fastened , i t shou ld becovered over wi th B ru ssel s—net

,tu l le

,mu l l

,or othe r fine , cheap

mater i a l to conceal the w i res . Thi s i s done by sew ing the material firs t to the ou ts ide or br im w i re and then draw ing i t backto the c rown

,thence up and to th e center O f the crown where

i t i s gathered . Shou ld the bra id be heavy , i t i s not cons i de rednecessary that th e frame be cove red in th i s manner as each st r ipO f brai d can be sewed onto the preced ing one , thu s ho ld ing i tfi rm and secure . I f the mater i al being used i s O f the finer order

such as ch i ffon , tul l e , etc .,

the i nne r cover ing shouldthen be put on ful l andeven that the wi re s be en

ti rely conceal ed .

I f one has a p l enty o fth e bra id

,s h e may begin by

us ing th i s to bind the edgewi re , but i f not

,start at the back Of wi re A . l ett ing th e bra id

extend out over the edge o f the wi re about one e ighth O f an inch

and thus sew i t a round and around i n such a way as to have

each border O f st raw s l igh tly ove r l ap the preced ing one . Thi s

i s cont inued unt i l th e ent i re upper part o f the hat i s compl ete,

a fte r wh ich i n th e same manner the lowe r part O f the br im i smade . Th e st raw need not be cut i n making the ent i re uppe rpart O f th e hat

,cutt ing on ly when start ing onto the lowe r s i de .

I n the cente r O f the crown the edge O f the braid i s gathe red anddrawn into shape .

Should the bra i d run short in making the hat , i t i s perhaps

bette r to cove r the upper part O f th e br im and crown wi th thebra i d

,fin i sh ing the lower s ide with ch i ffon or oth er so ft mate r ia l ,

with the poss ib l e except ion O f one row O f th e bra i d placed on

th e ext reme oute r edge to fin i sh i t . The braid coul d al so i n th i scase be sewed to th e uppe r and lower br ims and to th e top o f

the c rown,l eav ing the s i des to be fini shed with a bias fol d O f

ve lvet .

Cov er in g th e Fram e W i t h Soft Ma teria l .

TO cover th e wi re f rame with so ft mater i al , i t shou l d be fi rs tcovered with mu l l o r net O f some ki nd as stated above , ove rwh ich the oute r mater i a l is then p l aced . Shoul d one des i re tucks

or narrow ru ffles , they shou ld be pl aced in the mate r i al be foreapp lying to the hat . Fou r o r five narrow ruffle s make a verypre t ty edge to an a l l ch i ffon h at . I f these are used , th ey shou l d

b e p laced cl ose to the edge , thegathe r i ng o f wh ich forms th e ful lne s s nece s sary f o r th e cover ing .

Th e wrong s ide O f th e mater ia l i sth en sewed to the under

,s ide o f

th e brim about one - fourth O f an

inch from the edge and then

brought up Ove r the br im andsewed to the h eadw i re . The gathe rs shou ld be brought backsmooth and even to the c rown . A group O f th ree or fou r nar rowruffle s make s a ve ry pre t ty fini sh to the outs i de edge O f the

c rown and espec i a l ly where the s ame i s u sed on the edge O f th ebr im . Th e unde r s ide O f th e br im i s then fin i shed with anothernar row doub l e ru ffle p laced in the edge O f the mater ial andsewed on the wrong s i de to the under s i de o f the brim . Th i sis then tu rn ed and brought back and sewed to the h eadw i re .

The narrow ru ffle on th e edge O f the fac ing shoul d cover theseam made wh ere the fac ing i s sewed on and should extend out

to the edge w i re .

To Cov er th e Bu ckram Hat .

The mater ial f or cover i ng th e upper br im to the buckramframe i s cu t i n a c i rc l e to fi t th e hat

,a l lowing a ha l f i nch at the

oute r edge to tu rn over the edge wi re . Cut out th e c rown c i rcl e ,a fte r a l low ing an inch for s l ash ing i n th e fit t i ng . The p i ece

shoul d be basted or p inned t igh t ly to th e frame as th e good s

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The ve lvet,as wel l

as othe r styl es o f hatsi s O ften fi n i s h e daround the edge wi tha bi as p iece . Th i s i sdone by turn ing i nth e edges and bl i ndor loose s t i tch ingthem down on the

upper and lower s i d es w i th long,loose st i tche s .

TO cove r the upper br im O f a hat w i th ta ffeta i s shown in th efigu re . Th e s i lk i s cut on the bi as and sewed abou t an e igh th

O f an inch from the outer edge o f

th e brim on the lower s i de . In orderthat i t may exact ly fi t and be kep twe l l i n p l ace

,i t shou l d be p inned

l i gh t ly around th e edge and al lowedto j o in e i ther i n the back or where

th e t r imming w i l l cove r . The s t i tchesu sed in sewing th i s need be onlyshort enough to ho ld the s i lk smoothly when tu rned and put into p lace .

The s i lk i s th en d rawn back ove r th e top o f the br im and pinnedi nto shape around the base O f th e crown . I t shou l d be madeto look pe r fect ly st raight and the gath e rs made smooth andeven . Shou ld th e or igina l foundat i on O f the h at be O f s t raw

,th e

under s i de s O f th e br im may be le ft natu ra l, or there may be a

natu ral s t raw band l e f t on th e upper and lower s i des O f thebrim , and the bal ance faced wi th s i lk .

B an deaus .

The bandeau h as become qui te a neces sary adj unct to a wel lregu lated hat . The re wou l d es sent i a l ly be but one u se f or thebandeau , th at O f st rengthen i ng the c rown

,i f c rowns were de

pended upon ent i rely f or the fi t o r set O f th e hat . SO long,

however , as the c rowns are sma l l or the hat s requ i re a t i l t,there

wi l l be a need for them .

They are u sed in hat s f or var iou s purposes ; to g ive th e hata grace fu l t i l t ; t o a i d i n the fi t t ing O f th e c rown ; to suppor t aweak c rown , and give a fi rm foundat ion th rough wh ich to p in

.

When used f or th e latt er pu rpose,they are usua l ly made O f a

s tra igh t p iece O f buckram or capenet, vary ing in w idth from aninch to the he igh t O f the crown , and i n l ength suffic i ent to fi tw i th i n th e c rown .

Bandeaus u sed f or othe r purposes vary in wid th,l ength and

shape accord ing to the requ i rement s o f the weare r . The regulat ion shape i s rounding on both edges

, or with one st ra ight andone rounded edge

,mee t ing at the ends in a po int .

When i t i s des i red that th e hat be gi ven a t i l t or ra i s ed f romthe head , the long edge O f the bandeau shoul d be sewed into th eedge O f the crown , but whe re the bandeau i s to be us ed to makea better fi t t ing crown

,the short edge i s sewed in

,thus al low ing

the longer edge to form the head l i ne . These are more general lyused i n sma l l c rowned hat s .

I t wou ld be imposs ib l e for us t o make set ru l es for eachind iv i dua l to fo l low wi th re spect to bandeaus

,as they vary in

S i z e and shape accord ing to th e hat and to the styl e o f the

weare r . In vi ew O f th i s fact , i t i s adv i sab l e f or the i nd iv idual tocut out a numbe r o f d i fferent shapes

,p inning each into the hat

unt i l a sat i s facto ry one is found . Thi s is done in a l l o f the l arge rmi l l i ne ry s tores

,they keeping a number on hand O f d i ff erent

w i dth s and shapes . When t ry ing these bandeaus they s h ould'

be

pi nned fi rm ly into the inne r edge o f the crown w i th m i l l i neryp ins be fore attempt ing to fi t th e head .

Cover i ng t h e B an deau .

Afte r a bandeau i s p rocu red that answers the requ i rement s ,you p roceed to wi re and cover i t . Sew a cotton w i re around the

edge by means O f th e long overcast ing st i tch , pass ing the wire byand fasten ing on th e s id e that sews to the hat . To cover i t ,

which i s usua l ly done w i th velvet , l ay it down on a p iece o fmater i al and cut around i t

,al

low ing an inch with wh ich toturn over the edge . B aste andsew th i s at the same t ime bycatch ing fi rs t i nto one edge andthen acros s i nto the other . O fcourse

,th i s i s done on the

wrong s i de which i s a fterward s

fini shed wi th a p i ece O f mater ia l , cut the shape O f the band e autu rned i n and hemmed down onto the back o r wrong s i de o f thebandeau

,with in about a ha l f inch f rom the outs ide edge .

I f the bandeau i s not too wide the c rown l in ing may bebrought down and made to fin i sh the back .

Preparing and Selecting th e TrimmingWe re i t pos s ib l e to l ay down certa in ru l es govern ing the

sel ect ion o f t r imm ing to be worn by peopl e O f var ious ages andsty l es

,i t would be wel l wo rth '

th e e ffor t as there i s probably noone th ing so f requent ly v iol ated as good taste a long th i s l ine .

Thi s be ing imposs ib le,th e next best p l an i s fo r each ind iv idual

to become fami l i a r w i th th e mater ia l best su i ted to her age andstyl e and thus l ay down her own rul e s to be care fu l ly and fa i thfu l ly fo l l owed .

It i s a lways es sent i a l be fore sel ect ing the t r imming , as wel las the hat

,to study care fu l ly the cu rrent styl es

,as m i l l inery

goods are eve r chang ing and j udgment demands that the sty l esbe Observed and fo l lowed as much as p ract i cal . There are t imes ,however

,when i t i s an unw i se th ing to attemp t to fo l low what

i s er roneously t ermed good styl e,as some seasons a re g iven up

almost ent i re ly to fad s,wh ich to fo l l ow requ i re s an endl es s ex

penditure o f money . I t i s by far w i se r to pu t th e same amounto f money into a good p i ece o f velvet

,r ibbon or plume than to

attempt to fo l low Dame Fash ion in he r ext ravagant race a ft erfads . One shou ld always bear i n m ind that the neatest d res se ri s the one who makes i t a rul e to s crupu lou sl y avo id a l l fad s andt rashy art i c l es

,sav ing th e equ iva lent to i nve st i n th e best O f ma

ter ial s when buy ing .

Plumes and Fea t h ers .

Feathe rs be i ng among the expens ive art i cle s i n th e m i l l inery l i n e

,i t is we l l to know h ow to t e l l a good pl ume from an

in fe r io r one . A p lume that w i l l g ive good re turn s f or the moneyhas a h eavy

,even top with a long w ide fiber O f even l ength . The

bes t o f these are taken f rom the ma l e b i rd and are arranged intowhat i s known as the “French topped plume .

' The fibers shoul dbe O f equa l th i cknes s the ent i re l engt h and the p lume be wel lstayed w i th th e wi re at th e base . The qu i l l on th e under s id e runsth e ent i re l ength rathe r than be ing in short p ieces .

Fo r those wh o may not know,i t i s wel l to state that there

i s no pl ume that comes w i thout two or more qu i l l s be ing sewedtoge the r

,as i t i s thu s i n s ingl e qu i l l s

,they are p lucked f rom the

bi rd,the d i ffe rence be i ng in the l ength O f thes e qui l l s and in the

numbe r neces sary to get th e requ i red weight,the cheaper ones

be ing known as th e p i eced feathe r , due to the number O f short

p i eces requ i red to give to th em suffic i ent we igh t . I t i s fo r th i sreason one i s O ften to ld that a l l plumes come pi eced , and th i s i s ,as you see ,

i n a measu re t rue , but th i s does not necessar i ly mean

a combinat ion o f sma l lpiece s .A cheap p lume can be

recognized f rom the th in .

tape r i ng top and the narrow ,

th i n fiber . Thi s

p lume i s al so cur l ed h igh so as to

dece ive the buye r a s to thewe ight . I t i s much more eco

nom ical to have one good fu l lp lume th an th ree sma l l ones , asa good one wi l l last a numbe r o f

season s w i th care fu l w ear andst i l l look we l l wh i l e th e cheaperone s are apt to lose the i r c . i r la fte r the fi rst f ew t imes wear ing .

Whi l e p lume s may at the t ime O f buy ing seem a tr ifle expens ive , they may on th e other hand be looked upon as perhapsth e most economica l t r imming in which to i nvest

,as there i s

noth ing that requ i re s so l i tt le accompanying t r imming,that s tays

i n sty l e o r that has the wear ing qua l i ty , as does the good p lume .

W i r i n g t h e P lume .

When a p lume i s to be used on a hat for h igh or stand ingt r imming , i t shou l d be w i red that i t may stand the fo rce o f thewind wi thout breaking . To do th i s

,a p iece O f fine

,s i lk r ibbon

w i re i s fas tened to the w i re at the base O f the p lume,a fter wh ich

i t i s a l lowed to fo l low the qu i l l on the under s i de to w i th i n twoor th ree i nches o f th e t ip . Th i s w i r ing i s done by pass ing theth read around rath er than th rough the qu i l l so as to avoi d breaki ng i t

,th en bend ing i t to the exact sweep O f the p lume . The

wi re at the base shoul d be we l l s ecu red be fore sewing to th e hat .I t i s bes t to wrap the w i re around the finger and in th i s shapesew to the hat thu s p reven t ing i t f rom turn ing a fter be ing sewed .

O t h er Feath ers .

There i s a vas t d i fference i n th e buy ing O f what i s known asthe coque feathe rs and the wing . A good feather has a wi re atthe base and al so one runn ing to each sma l l group O f feathersth rough out the ent i re bunch , thu s secur i ng them against the w ind .

A cheap one i s w i red at the base , to p rov ide someth ing th roughwhich to sew

,but the sma l l feathe rs are merely pasted onto

a wi red p iece O f buckram o r paper .

A wing or breas t o ftent ime s a fte r a season ’s w ear,seems

f rai l and unfit to be u sed a second t ime ; these may be made tolook l i ke new by sewing onto the back a fan shaped or fi t tedpi ece O f buckram and

-

onto th i s attach ing th e loose feather s .Th i s p iece O f buckram i s se t agai nst the crown or backed up byother mater ia l s when t r imming .

F low ers .

F l owers are u sua l ly bought w i th th e i dea O f wear ing but theone season . I t is be st , howeve r , to inves t in at l east a good quali ty , as o ftent imes one finds i t conven ient to mix i n a few o f thel e ft Overs he re and the re when t r imming the next s eason ’s hat .

The re seems to be an erroneous i dea concern ing th e valueand durabi l i ty o f flowe r s

,i t be ing to the e ffect that they , to be

good,must be O f s i lk o r ve lvet or a comb inat ion O f th e two .

Noth ing i s farthe r f rom the t ruth,as some o f the most expens ive ,

imported flowe r s are made O f mus l i n . I t i s equa l ly t rue thatsome o f the h ighest p r i ced , im

ed to the sun qu i te as read i ly a smany O f th e cheaper ones .There are season s when the

sp r i ng and summer months , re

l uctant to go , l eave beh ind thema v i stage o f the i r l ove l ines s i nth e form O f the buds and flowe r s . The re seems ever to be

tha t whol esome and re f re sh ing look about m i l l inery good s du r ingsuch a fa l l o r w inte r season

,and there i s noth ing more appropr i

ate and becoming than a bunch O f r ich velvet flowers nest l ed

or ha l f h i dden among the r icher fol d s O f ve l vet .

Th e re are seasons when f ru i t s hold a prominent pl ace innatu re ’s t r imming . These are p ret ty though not a lways durabl e ,as o ftent imes the f ru i t w i l l d rop f rom the stem after but a sl igh texposu re to th e dew

,whi l e others w i l l apparent ly me l t and l o s e

the i r shape a fter a few times wear . Th i s i s,howeve r

,not always

th e case as some sprays wi l l last and keep the i r shape f or s evera lseason s

,the p r i ce govern ing th i s to a great extent

,as su ffic i ent

work cannot be put onto a poor ar t i c l e to insure i t s du rab i l i tyWhen de s i red

,t r imm ing O f th i s k ind i s espec ial ly appropr iate f or

sp r i ng and autumn w ear and f or the grown up woman ratherthan the ch i l d .

Velv e ts .

When buying velvet f or t r imming purposes , i t shou l d undera l l ord inary c i rcumstances be bought on th e bi as , as al l fo lds ,stand ing loops

,fac ings

,etc .

,are cut i n th i s way . When buy

ing mater i a l on the bi as,bear i n mind tha t a fourth O f a yard

on the out s ide edge i s l e s s than that amount when measured i nth e cente r ; there fore a l lowance shou l d be made for th i s whenbuy ing .

When loops O f ve lve t are to be used upon a hat i n such away as to concea l the wrong s i de

,they are made by cutt ing the

ve lvet on a t rue b ias,as wide as de si red , fol d ing th e edge down

but once and cat - st i tch ing i t on the wrong s ide by catch ing i nto

the back O f th e goods on ly . Should the wrong s i de be turnedso as to be seen

,i t may be faced on the back wi th s i lk or sat in

o f th e same co lor . TO do th i s,place the r igh t s ide O f the s i lk

and ve l vet together and with needl e and th read run around theedge , when i t may be tu rned to th e r ight s id e . O ftent imes theend o f a p iece o f ve lvet need s fin i sh ing ; th i s i s done i n the samemanner , bei ng care ful that the unfin i shed end o f the s i lk or theend that goes back into the loop

,i s le ft long enough to come we l l

up i nto th e gather s when brought back i nto p lace .

When des i r ing to wi re loops or ends fini shed in th i s way,the

wi re i s placed between th e outs ide and l i n ing a fter thes e havebeen sewed toge ther and tu rned ; a fterwards st i tch ing close tothe w i re to ho ld i t c lose i n the edge . Thi s fini sh ing gives a de

c ided ta i lored e ffect and i s eas i ly kept in pl ace .

More w i l l be sa i d concern ing th i s featu re under the head o fW i r ing and Mak ing Bows .

'

Ch i ff on and O t h e r Soft Ma t er ials .

There seems to be an eve r increas ing demand f or the l igh t,

ai ry mate r ia l s,such as ch i ffons

,mo l i ne s

,etc . Thi s is due to the i r

adaptab i l i ty to fi l l in the l i tt l e p laces imposs ibl e to the u se O f othermater ial s .

O f a l l these,ch i ffon apparent ly takes the l ead

,be ing more

durabl e and more capab l e O f bei ng renovated than mos t O f theothers . B e fore buy ing goods O f th i s k ind the buyer shoul dasce rta in exact ly th e amount d es i red , as to buy more than one

need s i s l ike throw ing that much away , as a fter i t is cut f rom thep iece i t i s O f l i t t l e poss ibl e use in the fu ture .

ext ra shou ld be a l lowed .

Ch i ffon o r othe r so ft mater ia l s may be tucked by bas t ingi t onto a p i ece O f pape r

,l engthen ing the st i tch on th e sew ing ma

ch ine and thus st i tch ing in the tucks , a fte rward s tear ing Of f the

paper.Gathe r ing o r sh i rr i ng may al so be done on the mach ine

by l engthen ing th e ten s ion or lowe r th read .

When ro l l s O f tucked ch i ffon or other so f t good s are to beu sed

,they may be ro l l ed over p i eces O f l e ft ove r s i lks w i th the

same e ffect and w i th l e ss goods . A very l i t t l e padd ing may al sobe pu t i n to doub l e roset te s made O f s i l k or othe r l ight goods , thusseparat ing the s ides and giv ing a f ul ler e ffect .

When gather ing so ft mater ial s,r ibbon s , s i lk s, e tc .

, to be u sed

f or ro set tes or ruffles they must be gathe red each p iece or edgeseparatel y

,as t o gathe r them in a seam o r on the same th read ,

cause s one fo ld to l i e w i th i n the othe r , thu s u s ing more mater i al

f or the same e ffect .

B ow s and Loop s .

Wired l ace bows tr im f ul l'

and pretty on l arge hat s and aremade by ro l l i ng a pi ece O f w i re o r bast ing i t wel l i nto the edge o f

th e lace o r net and then p ip ingi t wi th ve l vet . The ve lve t covers th e wi red edge and a l so g ivesa pre t ty fin i sh to the loop .

S i lk loops are O ft en fin i shedw i th a s t raw edge to match th e

st raw used in th e hat . Whenve ry so ft mater ial s a re u sed , i t

o ftent imes requ i re s even th ree o r four th icknesse s to ho l d thes i lk in the loop and to keep i t s shape between the wi res .

When ch i ffon i s des i red to be

tucked,the re shou ld be j u st the

amount O f the tucks a l lowed i nb uy ing . As f or i l lust rat ion ; i f tenone - ha l f— i nch tucks are des i red , teni nch es ext ra should be al lowedwh en buying

,or i f ten one- i nch

tucks are to be had , twenty inch es

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TO make a good bow,th e loops should be made separat ely

'though not cutt i ng'and O f unequa l lengths ; they shou l d be O f

good ly proport i on rathe r than a sma l l “wudgy affai r , yet that

they have not the appearance O f be i ng used f o r flying .

TO wi re the end O f a r ib

b on ,pass a sma l l , s i l k w i re a

doub l e back,thu s p revent ing

n

th e wi re a fte r be ing sewed to

sewed into the edge by sl igh tly ro l l ing i t and catch ing i t down wi th long , loose st i t ches on t h eunder s i de O f the wi re . The wi re i s then d rawn down t ight lyon the unw i red s i de and a st rong th read passed around i t s everalt imes . The end i s cu t s lant ing acros s f rom the unw i red s id e tothe wi re .

Loops are wi red in var iou s ways,as fo r i l lust rat ion

,one i s

made by cont inu ing the wi re on down the s i de o f the r ibbon theent i re l ength O f the loop

,a fte rward s d rawing and pa

’

s smg a

s t rong th read around seve ra l t imes and fasten ing . They are

a l so made by pass i ng the r ibbon ove r w i re s bent,as shown

,and

th en gather i ng th e r ibbon andw i re s be tween th e thumb andfinger s

,w ind ing the th read

around several t imes andfasten ing . When the r ibbon

i s pas sed ove r the wi re i n th i s way,i t shou ld be brough t down

t ight that the wi re may be hel d i n p lace . Afte r th i s i s done th ew i re may be i nv i s ib ly caught i nto the top O f the l oop . Loops

are correct when wi red on e i th er or both s ides but are not graceful when passed over a pe r fect ly flat w i re . They should ratherbe given the benefi t O f more movement . After the requ i red

number o f l oops have been made,they are fastened securely i n

the cente r w i th w i re or very st rong thread and then fini shed

w i th a grace fu l tw i s t or knot O f r i bbon .

I t i s not economica l o r neces sary to cu t the r ibbon into shortp iece s when making i t i nto bows

,as to do so on ly wastes the

mater i a l and i s O f no part i cu lar advantage when i t’

comes to the

e ffect .

O rnamen ts .

A fr’

a i l ornament that wi l l apparent ly not stand the s t ra ino f t r imming may o ftent ime s be fastened to a velvet coveredp iece O f buckram and thus sewed to the hat .

Buck l e s o r ornament s u sed in

hat t r immings do not requ i re thatthe r ibbon be cut i n pass ingth rough . I t i s bette r to pas s anext ra p i ece O f the same mater ial

,

which i s be i ng used f or the t r imming , th rough the buck l e , a fterwh ich i t i s fa stened to the hat .Thi s gives the same e ff ect w i thout the nece ss i ty f o r cutt ing i t .

Buck l es and ornaments be ing a luxury rath e r th an a mece ss ity , are O ften d i spensed wi th ; the i ngen iou s woman may , h oweve r , have thes e l i t t l e luxu ri es w i th very l i t t le t roub le and expense by making them he rsel f . As for i l l u st rat ion— l arge buck l e smay be made from the so ft straw bra id u sed in the const ruct ionO f the hat by sewing i t onto a p i ece O f buckram cut into the des i red shape .

Taffeta or sat i n may a l so be used to make ornament s o fth i s k ind .

B ra id o r s i lk may be used on the sem ita i lored hats to cove r button s and othero rnaments , ' wh i le button s

,e t c . ,

used

among l ace s and velvet s f or fancy t r imming

,may be fash ioned from sma l l

flowe rs sewed onto a p iece o f buckram .

Such h int s as the forego ing are g ivenw ith a v i ew to teach ing the pupi l Observat ion and or igina l i ty that sh e may not find

i t necessary to purchase a l l o f the l i t t l e art i c l es u sed on what i s

t ermed expens ive mi l l i ne ry .

Trimming th e Hat

I n no othe r branch O f m i l l i ne ry work i s the woman giventh e opportun i ty to d i sp l ay her own tast e and ind iv i dual i ty as inthe t r imming O f the hat i t se l f . Ce rt ai n ru l e s o r l im itat ions the reare wh ich i n a measure govern a l l other branches O f the work ,

but i n th i s sh e i s given the l im i t O f pos s ibi l i t ies to c reate whatl i es wi th in the scope O f her powe r and abi l i ty .

As soon as the woman dec i des to be a mi l l ine r,she shoul d

at once begi n he r study i n Obse rvat ion . By th i s -we mean

that she shou ld upon see ing a hat that part i cu larly pl eases her,

make a note O f i t e i th er i n he r memory, or bet te r st i l l on paper ,

th i s to be used as a suggest ion at some futu re t ime i n des ign ing .

Th i s w i l l al so ass i s t he r in overcoming l i t t l e pecul i ari t ies character istic o f h er s ty l e and tast e wh ich

‘migh t otherwi s e be carr i edto the exten t o f f reak i shnes s . I t w i l l al so a i d her in develop ingher own persona l i ty along the spec i a l l ine o f mil l inery . The

study o f the s tyl es and charts sen t out at the beginn ing o f a

season w i l l he lp very mate r ial ly in th i s work,but as one i s

neve r abl e to produce exact ly th e e ffect o f the o r ig inal,sh e

should be p repared to pu t her own persona l i ty i n to th e work,

the reby p roduc ing one equa l ly a s good .

To make th e work O f t r imming the hat eas i er , th read anumbe r O f med ium coarse needl e s w i th a s t rong

,doubl e th read

,

plac ing them with in easy reach . Thi s may at fi rst seem unneces

sary bu t i t s importance w i l l be apparen t when,a fte r several at

tempt s , the m i l l iner succeed s i n gett i ng th e t r imm ing satis f actor

i ly p laced , only to find that she has not enough thread in herneed l e w ith wh ich to fasten i t .

What i s te rmed bast ing i n othe r work,i s te rmed sew

ing i n m i l l inery as the s t i tch es are not requ i red to be smal l ,but mus t be inv i s ib ly pl aced . The amount o f sew ing neces saryto apply the t r imming shou l d be suffic i ent only to w i th stand thehard w ind s

,as the more st i t ches

,the wo rse w i l l be the cond i t i on

O f the t r imm ing when removed . Th i s i s espec ia l ly true O f velve t ,r ibbons

,etc . A l es s “pasty' appearance i s gi ven to the hat i f

more p in s and le s s th read are used in the fas ten ing down o f

l oops and ends,as wel l a s al l other places where fi rm sew ing i s

not requ i red . Mi l l i nery p ins are used f or th i s pu rpos e and maybe inv i s ibly pl aced by catch ing in to the back O f the mater ialand then in to the ha t .

One o f the d ifficul t tasks i n tr imming i s to ho ld the hat ina manne r not to disfigure the t r imm ing a l ready p laced , or th e

hat i t se l f . Th i s i s made eas i e r by fasten ing i t fi rmly to the

sk i rt s ; the l e ft hand w i l l th en be f ree to ho l d th e t r imming inpl ace wh i l e the r igh t h and sews i t to the hat . Anothe r way i sto take a fi rm p iece O f mus l i n or t ick ing about four inch es wideand as long as requ i red and tack th i s to the upper par t O f thew indow s i l l and to th i s p i n the hat ; i t shou l d be pinned to thest r ip th rough the br im at a p lace about even wi th the arms .

A hat to be a success i s a un i ty O f grace fu l l i ne s and curves ,and wh i le Observat ion and t ime wi l l do much toward teach ingthe woman the es sent ial po int s necessary to a genera l knowl edge ,i t i s wel l that a few suggest ions and rule s be given in order thather Observat ion be tu rned to her best poss ibl e advantage .

When app lying t r imming to a wi re f rame , pass the threadaround the w i re as the force o f the w ind wi l l tear the fine mater ial used f or cove r ing . I f the s i des o f the crown are en t i relyconceal ed

,a band O f buckram or capenet may be p laced on the

in s ide th rough wh ich to sew the t r imming ; otherw i se a smal lsquare wh ich wi l l answe r the same purpose .

B e fore st retch ing a t igh t band

p lace around i t a band o f equa l

w idth o f capenet or othe r mater ial,

that the w i re s may not be v i s ibl efrom the outs i de .

TOO much tr imming shou l d not be

pu t upon a ch i ffon hat as the fu l l n e ss o f the mater i al makes apretty t r imming i n i tsel f . Such tr imming as i s u sed should beo f the l ight , a i ry orde r . O s tr ich plumes make an exce l l entt r imm ing for the ch i ff on , or l igh te r straw hats such as the Leghorn , Ch ip , etc . W i red l ace or ne t l oops

,with edges fin i shed

w i th sat i n , make an excel l ent subst i tu te for the os t r i ch feathe rsand are much les s expens ive . I f black i s to be used

,the best

qual i ty o f black l ace or net only shou ld be used,po int d ’espr i t

be ing espec i a l ly recommended . The large r the hat,the more

t r imm ing i s requ i red .

Wings or qu i l l s are much pre tt ier on the heav ier s trawsthan on those O f l igh te r mater i al ; f or th i s reason they are es

pecial ly adaptabl e for sp r i ng rathe r than summer wear , be ingl ater superseded by the os tr ich pl umes

,flowers

,etc . , on th e ch i ffon

or l ace hat . Fl owers are not as a rul e u sed with wings,qu i l l s

,

or other feathers O f th i s kind , these bei ng much pret t i e r whenfin i shed or accompani ed w ith knot s and loops o f r i bbon . I f thebroad effect i s des i red , do not shorten i t by fin i sh ing a pa i r O fwings w i th a large rosette pl aced at th e base .

When wings o r breast s are used,cover them fi rst w i th mo

l ine,as the bes t o f feathers w i l l rare ly stand the force o f the

w ind f or the ent i re season and st i l l l ook wel l . The breast i scovered ent i re ly by wrapping one th icknes s O f mo l i ne ove ri t smooth ly

,l app ing past and fasten ing i t i n th e back . W ings

are cove red i n the same manner except that the ends o f the

wings are le ft f ree,the base be ing the par t necessary to protect .

DO not hem or t ry to fin i sh th e edge O f the mol ine where i tcomes ac ros s the face O f the wing .

port ion o f th e br im . Sa i l o rbows are al so pl aced on th e le f t .

Crowns are fini shed i n many ways vary ing accord ing to therequ i rements and taste ; one ve ry pret ty way i s to stand a doubl eru ffle or pl eat ing aga in st the c rown

,fin i sh ing at the base w i th a

nar row band O f ve lve t r ibbon . Wide velvet or s i l k r ibbon maya l so be used i n th i s way . Another way i s to c rush a th i rd o f a

yard O f so f t mater ial around the c rown,

fin i sh ing at th e s ide w i th a rosette or

ornament . Scar f s made o f r ibbon , ch i ff on , s i lk , o r any so f t mater i al

,make an

excel l ent way to remodel an O ld, or tr im

a new hat . These are l a i d l oo sely ove rthe br im and d raped carel es s ly ove r th ecrown , be ing fin i sh ed a t th e s ide w i th abow wi th or

'w ith Out end s,as des i red .

When brims are tu rned h igh at anypl ace , t he space between th e ha i r and hat should be fi l l ed in w i the ithe r r ibbon

,flowers

,or other l igh t mater ial . The finer flowers

,

or l i gh t mate r ial s,such as mol i ne s

,ch i ffons , etc .

,are genera l ly

used near th e face,giv ing a p ret ty fin i sh to the sk in

,wh i l e the

l arger flowers and r ibbons are reserved for th e back .

A black velve t covered bandeau i s con s idered in‘ good tastefo r any ha t that requ i res one

,regard l es s O f the col or o f ha t or

t r imming . For a narrow bandeau used only to g ive a t i l t to thehat , or to g ive the proper fi t to the crown , a very loose doubl ekno t o f velvet r ibbon w i th end s pul l ed out and fastened

,i s con

s idered suffic i en t t r imm ing , th i s be ing u sed only to cover thepl a in appearance o f the bandeau .

Wh i l e much o f the character O f the hat depend s upon thewear ing o f the bows , a great deal al so depend s upon th e manner

A l l flower hats or hatsmade w i th flower c rowns ,requ i re l i tt l e i f any t r imm ing .

General ly speaking , thema in part o f th e tr imming o f

o f hand l i ng the unwi red loop,as f o r i l lust rat ion— th e narrow

ribbon ve lvet loop can be made to look long and st r ingy,or i t

may be made to l i eup i n a natural andgrace fu l c u r v e .

Thi s d i ffe rence i sdue ent i re ly to themanner in wh ichth e two are fas

tened to the ha t ;the se shou ld be p inned rathe r than be sewed i f the proper e ffecti s to be had . The loops shoul d be made to l i e up from

,rather

than flat upon the hat . Thi s e ffect i s gai ned by pl ac ing the pinin the end o f the l oop in the lower edge o f the r ibbon , and inth i s way

,p inned to the hat . The l oop shou ld be spread be fore

pinn ing and the ends cut d iagona l ly or i n a V shape . R ibbonve lvet may be made into ve ry e ffect ive loops and ends bu t cannotbe as succes s ful ly wi red and made to take the place o f s tand ingt r imm ing .

When using wi red r ibbon loops ent i re ly for h igh tr imming,

they may be fastened h igh up on the crown instead O f a t thelower edge , thus saving a l arge amoun t o f r ibbon in the l engthO f the loops . To do th i s requ i res no more extra fi l l ing in

,as

one wou ld necessar i ly be requ i red to put someth ing at th e baseto cove r the ends o f the wi res .

sma l l c lust ered togethe r

R ibbons o r other mater ial s , shou ld be cut as l i t tl e as poss iblewhen t r imming ; i t i s better when t ry ing to produce a certaine f fect , to pass the r ibbon i nv i s ibly around , or under , the othert r imming , or even th rough the brim

,by mak ing a smal l s l i t

,

unt i l i t reaches the des i red place .

Bows made o f a numberO f loops are more grace fu land t r im much pret t ier thanthe same amoun t O f r ibbonput in to a few spraw l ingloops and ends . Th i s doesnot mean tha t the loopsshou l d be made smal l and“

wudgy as there i s equal lyas l i tt le grace in a numberin the other ext reme .

When buying r i bbon,a lways ge t a good grade as there i s

no one th ing th at so a l te rs the looks O f a hat as when the r ibbonloses i t s st i ffnes s and th e loops flatten .

When two k ind s o f flower s are

u sed,both above the br im

,put the

heav ie r one s be low,and the l igh te r

above,as

,f o r il l u st rat ion — when

rose s and l i l acs are u sed together,

th e l i l ac s should be pl aced abovethat the roses may not have theappearance o f c rush ing them down .

TO make a flat , or sai l o r bow ,w i thout cutt i ng the r ibbon

,

take a p iece o f r ibbon as long as requ i red f or the bow ,br ing the

two end s toge ther and fas ten themexact ly in the m idd l e O f the r ibbon ;th i s makes two l arge l oops . Push toth e center the middl e O f each O f theseloops , thus making fou r loops o f even

l ength . Shou ld you des i re the loop s o funeven l ength , th i s may be done whenmak ing the l ast two loops . Th e bow i s

fini shed w i th an ext ra p i ece pas sed over the cen ter and fast enedi n th e back .

Black and wh i t e i s a good combinat ion and su i tab le f o r al ls easons and occas ions .

Don’

t over load the hat . I t i s not the amoun t o f tr imm ingbut the k ind th at coun ts f or asucces s fu l hat . An over

or too many colo rs w i l l cheapen th e most expens ive one . I fthere be bu t one art i c l e u sedlet tha t one be good .

St i f f s traws are the properth ing for bus ines s wear

,Leghorn s

,Ch ips

,Ch i ffons

,e tc .

,hav ing

no p lace among mi l l ine ry used f or th i s pu rpose . Pl umes al so

are tabooed for bus ine s s wear as i t i s imposs ib le to have themout i n al l k inds o f weath er , even with th e bes t O f care , withou tthe i r look ing most abj ect ly forlo rn be fo re the end o f the season .

' O kind o f t r imming looks we l l on a hat i f put on in sucha manner that i t bobs backward s and forwards w i th every s tep .

https://www.forgottenbooks.com/join

used . Cu t th i s about an inch l arger than the c rown Open ing ;tu rn in one end a t r ifle to make a fin ish to the seam when thetwo end s meet

,and begin wi th th i s end to sew in to the hat

,turn

ing the l in ing out and sewing on the w rong s ide . The l in ing i sthen tu rned back in to the crown , the other edge turned in andgathered into pl ace .

Ch i ldren’

s Sty lesFew peop l e apparent ly real i ze what i t means to ch i ld ren to

be prope rly and neat ly d re ssed . I t i s one o f the hardsh ip s o fch i ldhood to see a p l aymate in a wel l chosen and wel l fi tt ing d res sor hat and to find by compar i son that one’s own l i tt l e garmen ti s made with apparen t ly no thought for the fi t or s ty l e . Chi ldren are more sens i t ive to th i s than mos t peop l e real i ze , evenboys ’ feel ings to an exten t be ing harrowed by the s igh t O f c lothesbette r than the i r own . O f cou rse

, one shou ld not make the mi stake o f g iv ing the ch i ld to unde rs tand that d res s i s the one th ingin th i s world to be cons i de red

,ye t i t shou ld not have imp l anted

i n i ts mind a total ind i ffe rence to tas te and dres s by be ing de

p r ived O f tas te ful clo th ing.

There i s real ly no excu se f or a ch i ld not be ing taste fu l lyd ressed

,as the very cheapes t o f mater ial , i f properly ut i l i zed , i s

mos t charming . All garments f or a ch i ld shou ld be da int i ly ,rathe r than el abo rately made

,and shou ld be character i zed by

grace fu l and s imple l ines .

Hats no l es s carry ing out the general rul e, shou ld be s imp l eand da inty and Shou ld eve r be fash ioned with the idea o f keeping th e face fresh and youth fu l .

Colors to b e W orn by Ch i ldren .

I f one con forms s tr ict ly to wha t i s correc t they wi l l u senoth ing but wh i te f or a g i rl

,with the poss ibl e except ion o f a blue

or pink r ibbon,unt i l she has atta ined the age o f e igh t years , and

for a boy un t i l h e h as reached the age o f s ix .

I f mothers wou ld only remember that,in the i r over zeal ou s

nes s to make the i r ch i l d ren l ook pretty,they invar iably go to

the o ther ext reme and ge t them up i n a mos t gro tesque fash ion .

O thers there are who apparent ly feel that i f they adhere s tr ict lyto blue and p i nk

,they have done a l l that i s requ i red and that

these color s may be used i n p ro fu s ion or not, as des i red . Th i si s a mi s take as even these harmles s colo rs may , in abundance , be

worn to a deci ded d i sadvantage . N0 one l i kes to see a young ,f resh faced , pink cheeked l i tt le mi ss , h idden beh ind a mass o fruffles , pu ffs and r ibbons that coul d bette r , and with far morecomfort to the ch i l d

,be exh ib i ted in a show w indow . When in

doubt as to what colo r to buy,buy wh i t e and then at l east in

colo r you wil l be correct .

After the ages O f s ix and e ight,ch i ld ren may beg in to wear

more co lors , the l ighter shade s be ing e spec ial ly recommended .

Dark green , purpl e and al l Shades O f hel iot rope , v iol e t and l i l acshou l d be kept O ff f rom the ch i l d and even the mi ss unt i l she i sat l east s ixteen . B l ack i s fo r persons O f mature years and notfor ch i ld ren or very young l ad ies . Red may be used a fter thefi rs t s ix or e ight years f or hat t r imm ings

,coat s and j ackets .

Br igh t p l a id s i n r ibbons may al so be worn by a g i rl a fter aboutthe fou rth year but not by boys

,as des ign s o f any kind should

not be u sed f or a boy . P l a id s may be u sed f or d res se s a fter thefi rs t e igh t years and are espec ial ly good f or schoo l wear . Blackand wh i te i s en t i re ly too old a combinat ion for ch i ldren . Brown

i s worn a fte r the ch i l d h as pas sed the age O f e igh t .

Th e ' ind of Hat .

When buy ing a ha t for a ch i ld,remember you are no t do ing

i t a kindnes s by buy ing one wh ich w i l l be consp i cuous amongthose o f other ch i ld ren for its ext ravagance , as th i s teachesselfishnes s in i t s worst form bes ides inj u r ing the o ther ch i ldren’sfeel ings . Money shou ld p l ay no part in the sel ect ion o f a ch i ld ’shat excep t to the extent o f neatness and serv iceab i l i ty .

A “bes t hat shou ld be sel ected w i th the idea o f go ing withthe finer , da int i er fabr ics but not with a sugges t ion o f be ing elaborate . I t may be made o f the finer mater ial s or st raws prov idedthey be serv iceabl e

,as ch i ld ren ’s hats

,at best , get very hard wear

be fore the end o f the season a t wh ich t ime they mus t st i l l bep re sen tabl e . Coarse woven straws are not as good f or ch i ld ren ,espec ial ly below the age O f s ix

,as the fine , pl iabl e ones . The

t r imm ing used sh ou ld al so be O f the l igh ter order such as fineflowers

,ruches

,etc . ,

l arge flowers no t be ing us ed to good eff ectby ch i ld ren . Feathers are al so not in pl ace on a ch i ld ’s hat andcanno t be worn by even a young m i s s to good advantage .

For the fou r - year - old a smal l Leghorn w i th a wreath o f fine

flowers i s qu i t e su ffic i ent ; l ater be ing comb ined with so ft rosett esand r ibbon . T iny blue and p ink forget - me—no ts a re al so prettyamong the so f t fold s .

When buying the finer flower s O f the del i cate shade s,be sure

to get those that are we l l fastened to the s tem and wil l not dropO ff when exposed to the damp , or that w i l l not lo s e the i r colo rqu i ckly when worn in the sun .

Ti e s may be used on the d res s ha t but are dec ided ly out O f

pl ace on th e schoo l hat . Trim the hat so that i t has the appearance o f be ing l ight , as th e l igh t , ai ry hat s are much pret t ier than

the heav i e r appear ing ones . Fine l aces

face bu t shou l d be o f wh i te or one O fth e l i ghter shades . B e care fu l aboutbuying cheap laces f or both hat anddre ss . F ine flowers make a p retty out

l i ne to a baby face when used on th e

i nner s id e o f a bonnet . Bu t one colo r i su sed on a ch i ld ’s hat unl es s i t be in theshape O f fol iage mixed in w i th the flowers a f te r the ch i l d has passed the age

O f about s ix . When r ibbon i s u sed on a hat,le t the bows be

med i um in s ize rather than too l arge .

A schoo l o r’

eve ry day ha t should be o f the pla ines t poss ib le k ind and ye t be neat and pretty . The one best fo r th i s pur

pose i s the o rd inary flat hat,w i th a r ibbon p laced around the

crown and t i ed i n the back . Th i s may be t ied e i the r in a l argebow wi th two long loops and end s or in a sma l l bow w i th longends . When t i ed in th i s way a heavy sat in o r ve lvet r ibbon varying in wi dth from an inch and a hal f to th ree inches may beused . Sashes may al so be d rap ed a round the c rown and t ied i na sa i lo r bow with end s long enough to hang Off the back . These

end s may be fin i shed wi th f r inge o r tas sel s or may be s imply

hemmed . The s i de s a re a l so hemmed unl es s a w i de r ibbon w i thfin i shed edge s i s used .

When se l ect ing a schoo l hat , get one that wi l l keep i ts co lorand shape we l l f or the ent i re s eason w i thou t h av ing to be w i redor o therwi se renovated ; al so when se l ect ing any kind O f a hat ,get one tha t fi ts and sets wel l and that i s not too heavy on thech i ld ’s head as there i s noth ing more t ry ing to the nerves thanan i l l fitt ing crown . Th i s i s espec ial ly true o f ch i ld ren as the i rmovemen ts wi l l keep even the bes t fi tt i ng c rown in j eopardythe mos t o f the t ime . The mothe r shou l d s ee to th i s per sonal ly asa ch i ld i s apt to be carr i ed away w i th a pretty hat regard l e s s o fthe way i t s e ts upon the head . Al l hats should be made to setflat upon the head w i thou t the a id O f th e bandeau .

When buying th e winter hat,i t i s always best to buy the hat

and coat to match in co lor as nearly as poss ibl e,as care must

be taken that too many colo rs are not used together .

Among the prett i es t hat s f or summer wear are the l i tt l e washhats , wh ich are coo l and l ight and eas i ly l aundered . They maybe made fancy or p lai n accord ing to one’s i nd iv i dua l taste . On eespec ial ly good for a boy is made wi th a round

,flat crown w i th

scal loped edge,buttoned with t iny buttons onto the br im . These

are done up out O f cold starchwith ve ry l i t t l e t roub l e . A g i rl ’sh at may be made more e laborate by

usi ng embro idery in place O f th ep lain , st i tched good s .

A very pract i cal way O f us i ng one O f l ast season ’s s trawor fel t hat s , th at i s not too badly out O f shape , i s to bend the f rontand back br ims d i rect ly up

,provid ing th i s can be done w i thout

break ing , and thus fastening togethe r at the s ides near the crown ,afte rward s cover ing the st i tch esw i th a bow on e i ther s ide . Shouldth e c rown be out O f shape , i t may

b e st i ffened w i th a p iece o f buck

ram 'see prev iou s l es son', and aband the same as used on the top ,st retch ed a round and t ied in asma l l bow at th e le ft .Mothers O ften make a grave mi s

k ind O f hat to be worn and theproper t ime f or wear ing , as the

ch i ld i s by no means qual ified to j udge wh at i s and i s not appro

p riate fo r var ious occas ions . I f g iven her cho ice sh e w i l l invar iably choose her “bes t hat ' regardle ss O f the kind o f d res s o r occas ion o f wear ing . The mother ’s super ior j udgment should beexerc i sed and the ch i l d made always to con form to the conven

tional l aws O f d ress .

Vei l s .

Vei l s are worn by very young ch i ld ren and babi es to protectthe face bu t are not necessary and are qu it e out O f pl ace On Olderch i ldren and the young mi ss . Wh i te only should be u sed and th emater ial should be O f the fine

,sheer orde r w i thout mesh .

RenovatingMuch has al ready been sa id concern ing economy and the

fal s e i dea O ften conce ived regard ing i t . We woul d not f or a

momen t d i scourage th e woman in her e ff orts to econom i ze , aslav i sh expend itu re i s unneces sary and shows an incompetence inbus ines s managemen t wh ich o f ten br ings much mi sery ; we

wou ld,howeve r

,d i scourage the u sel e ss effo r ts o f the woman to

save today at the expense Of tomorrow . The cheapest mater iali s by no means the mos t economical and i s far f rom be ing themost s at i s factory in other respects . We woul d adv i se thewoman when buying an art icl e to buy at l eas t good , i f not thebe st o f i t s k ind

,and to avo id by al l means cheap and t rashy ma

terial or ar t i c l es .

Don ’t buy one yard O f mater ial expect ing i t to make twoyards O f tr imm ing

,as th e amoun t saved w i l l not beg in to repay

you for the d i sappo intment you w i l l feel wh en i t i s brought toyour not ice . I t i s far bet te r to buy the two yard s o f good mater ial th i s season and be abl e to c l ean and renovate for nextseason ’s wear .

Here in wi l l be found a number O f formul as f or the c l ean ingand renovat ing O f tr imm ing and hats in a sc ient ific manner , wh ichw i l l p rove invaluabl e to the home mi l l iner . The resu l ts o f theseformu l a s have been found to be most s at i s facto ry and are therefo re recommended for the d i ffe ren t processe s O f cl ean ing . D i ff erent fo rmu l a s are g iven for the same purpose , th i s be ing foundto be exped i en t

,due to the d i fferen t k ind s and grades o f good s ,

the chem ical ac t ion vary ing accord ing to the grade and tex tu reO f th e art icl e . A l i t t l e exper imen t ing wi l l , however , teach theu se r those bes t su i ted to her pu rpose . These formu l a s h ave beenco l l ected f rom var iou s source s at a great expense

,f or the benefit

o f ou r pup i l s wh o can save themsel ves a l arge amoun t o f moneyby the i r prope r u se and app l icat ion .

You w i l l note that we recommend and g ive formulas f or anumber o f home p roces ses in the var iou s Operat ions o f cl ean ingwh ich

,when effect ive

,are much be tte r f or the art icl e be ing

c l eaned than when necessary to resor t to the u s e o f the morest renuou s method s .

When cl ean ing any manner o f bat these ru l es should everbe Observed . Never s tar t to cl ean a hat w i thout fi r s t picking out

al l the thread s l e f t f rom th e prev iou s t r imm ings , then brush ingand rubb ing thoroughly to r emove every part i c l e O f l oose dust .When rubb ing u s e a so f t c loth and rub w i th a smoo th , evens troke around th e br im and crown , and never again st the weave

O f the s traw . Lay th e hat on a flat su r face when c lean ing andhandl e as l i t t le as poss ibl e . B e fo re any o f the c lean ing or b leaching processe s , where a so lut ion i s used , the hat shou ld be spongedO ff care fu l ly w i th pu re wh i te soap d i s so lved in so ft water u s ingas l i t t le wate r as pos s i b l e to do the work . A teaspoon fu l Ofbenz i ne to a cup o f water i s al so very good wi th wh i ch to spongeOf f the hat . Thi s should be used in the Open ai r and not i n aclo sed room or near an art ific i a l l ight . After us ing any o f the

l iqu id processe s o f clean ing,the hat shou l d be r i nsed thoroughly ,

sponged , not soaked , with l ukewarm ,not h ot

,water , and then

p laced on a flat su r face i n th e open a i r to d ry . One O f th e mostimperat ive rul es in clean ing i s that the hat be wel l r in sed .

The fol lowing formulas w i l l be found to be very succe ss fu lin the cl ean ing o f straw hats or bonnet s .

To Cl ean S t raw Goods .

Get a few cen ts ’ worth o f common corn -meal to wh ich i sadded enough water to wel l mo i sten . W i th th i s rub the ha t thorough ly and l ay as i de a coup l e o f days to d ry . Af ter i t i s d rybru sh off the meal and the hat w i l l be found to look cl ean andnew. Thi s i s a l so good ' A paste made o f magnes ia and water ,appl ied w i th a so ft c loth or brush and then a l lowed to dry

,a fter

which i t i s bru shed o ff w i th very good resul t s . The forego ingmanners o f cl ean ing st raw are intended to be used only when thehat i s so i l ed f rom dus t rather than be ing rain spotted or sun

bu rned . Hats a re O f ten cl eaned in th i s way or by wash ing inc l ean soap water and a f te rward s treated to several app l icat ions O fequal part s o f s t rong black tea and coffee . Th i s so lut ion should beapp l ied unt i l the Leghorn or M i l an i s a r ich tan .

To B leach th e S t raw .

For a badly so i l ed or sunburned hat,the fo l lowing wi l l be

found to be very effectual prov i d i ng the st raw be not too fineor bad ly worn to perm i t O f hard rubbing . Take an ounce o f

oxal i c ac id d i ssolved in a quart O f water and app ly to the hatw i t h a b ru sh . I f t h e h a t i s ex t remel y d i r t y , add more Of t h eac id ; th i s w i l l make the hat cl ean and st i f f . Another good bl each

and an excel l en t one fo r clean ing the Leghorn,i s to take equal

part s o f su lphur and l emon j u ice , and app ly to the hat w i th a so ftc l oth . Th i s be ing a bl each , i t should be wel l rubbed into the hat ,that i t may not come out st reaked . I t may be found necessary to

use a brush to get th e so lut ion wel l into the straw . The hatshould be wel l r insed be fore pl ac ing on a flat su r face to d ry .

Another good way to t reat one o f the finer s t raw s i s to geta good Oi l pa in t and d i l ute i t to a l iqu id and apply th i s wi th aso f t brush a fterward s l aying away to d ry .

The rougher l ight colo red st raws are very succes s fu l lycl eaned with a smal l quant i ty o f wh i te soap d i ssolved in one

and one- hal f p ints O f so f t water contai n ing a tabl espoon ful O fammon ia .

Due to the l ack o f s t i ffnes s in the Leghorn , th e br im maysh r ink and tu rn up as i t beg ins to dry ; should th i s be the case ,i t may be aga in dampened and heavy weight s p l aced around on

the brim and al lowed to rema in there unt i l d ry . Shou ld thecrown seem incl ined to st retch and l ose i t s shape , i t may be p l acedon a block or form wi th a heavy we igh t on the top and thu sa l low ed to dry

,when i t w i l l resume much O f i ts natu ral shape .

The su r face used f or block ing shou ld be per fec t ly flat as thec rown pres se s to exact ly the shape o f the ar t i c l e . Where one hasnot the regul ar form or b lock , a cloth may be folded and l a i don top o f a can o r pa i l w i th qu i te th e same resu l ts . The blockshould not be taken from th e crown un t i l per fect ly dry . I f thec rown i s th en found to be bulging i n the top ,

i t may be agai n

dampened upon th e block and with a cloth sp read over i t , ahot i ron appl ied

,mov ing i t over the su r face un t i l pe r fectly dry .

The i ron should be only mode rately h ot as th e d res s ing in thest raw burn s qu ickly . Should i t be found neces sary, the br immay al so be p res sed in th i s way

,except that i t be la id on a flat

su r face . One o f th e eas ies t ways to d ry a crown that i s not toobadly out O f shape , is done by crumpl ing smal l p ieces o f paperand fi l l i ng in the c rown unt i l exact ly the or ig inal Shape , when i ti s then l a id on a flat su r face to dry . TOO much care can not be

taken in the handl i ng O f the h at , as the s t raw s tre tches bad lywhen damp . Never put th e hand i nto the crown when e i theris we t .

B l each ing Rough S t raw .

The me thod perhaps mos t f requen t ly u sed in the bl each ingo f men’s hats or rough s traw goods , i s to expose the hat to thefumes O f bu rn ing su lphu r . To do th i s place a pan o f l ive coal si n the bottom O f a barre l and over th i s pour a good ly quan t i tyo f su lphu r . The hat i s washed in clean , cold water to removeal l d i r t or dust and then su spended f rom a cord , wh ich

’rnay be

t ied t o a st ick and la i d acros s the barrel . Th e barrel‘

i s then

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Some st raws are much more eas i ly and succes s fu l ly co loredthan othe rs . For example

,a so ft st raw takes read i ly to the dye

and make s an even,pre t ty shade

,whi l e a s t raw with a hard

,

glos sy sur face takes much longer and i s much harde r to succes sfu l ly co lor . O ft ent imes th i s fi rm

,sat i n st raw i s seen runn ing

th rough a fine bra id . Th i s bra i d when colored wi l l u sual lytake a beaut i fu l colo r except fo r the one st raw wh ich w i l l rema inabou t two shades l ighte r than the oth e r o r finer part . Th i s twotoned e ffect i s not at a l l unp leasan t and may somet imes be though tto be an advantage as the t r imming may be carr i ed out i n thel igh ter shad e .

There are a great many fo rmulas f or colo r ing st raws bu t theord inary dyes wi l l do equa l ly as good work and are l ess expens iveas we l l a s be i ng much l es s t roub le . TO do th i s succes s ful ly i tshould be done as fol l ows ' Clean the hat thoroughly

,remov ing

eve ry part icl e o f dust and th read , and pl ace in qu i te warm waterf or a pe r iod o f about fi fteen m inutes . Thi s i s done to so ften thest raw . Make the dye accord ing to the d i rect ions on the package . After the straw i s wel l so ftened

,p l ace it in the dye , turn ing

ove r and over as i t bo i l s th at a l l par ts may be even ly colo red .

Af te r bo i l ing th e ‘

requ ired l ength O f t ime , thoroughly r inse andp l ace in th e Open ai r to d ry . I f the colo r i s not deep enough

,

a l i t t l e more dye may be added and the ha t aga in d ipped .

A hat may be made a good b l ack by bo i l ing fou r hou r s inst rong l iquor O f l ogwood , w i th a l i t t l e copperas added occas ional ly .

Ribbons .

There i s no art icl e abou t a woman ’s ward robe as O ftenbough t and as qu ick ly cas t as id e as r ibbons . They become so i l edand the ve rd ict O f “use l e ss i s “

pronounced upon them,and othe rs

are bough t to fi l l the i r p laces . I f these r ibbons can be saved wi thout sacr ific ing our re spect fo r neatness

,i t i s a duty we owe to

ourse l ve s to do i t .TO freshen and renovate r ibbons i s not d ifficu l t and r equ i res

on ly a l i t tl e p ract ice to become qu i te p rofic ien t in the art . Somevery good fo rmu las are given below . Probably one O f the mos tsucces s fu l ways to clean r i bbon i s to “board ' i t . Th i s i s doneby l ay ing the r ibbon in cl ear water unt i l thoroughly soaked andthen w i t h a so ft c loth rub i t care fu l ly onto a cl ean

,smooth board .

Care should be taken that no fold or c rease i s rubbed into ther ibbon as th i s b reaks and inj u re s the texture . The r ibbon be ingapp l ied to th e board wh i l e d r ipp ing , i t i s adv i sabl e to s et i t in anupr igh t pos i t ion that the d i rty water may not be al lowed to d ry

in; .

‘

P lace a coup l e O f p in s i n the top as the r ibbon w i l l d rop O ff

th eaboafrd when dry . The door cas ing w i l l be found to be avery conven ient p lace upon wh ich to board r ibbon . I f the r ibbon

i s bad ly soi l ed,a l i tt l e ammonia o r benz ine put i nto the wate r

w i l l improve i t . When remov ing the r ibbon,i t shoul d be ro l l ed

and not fol ded . I t w i l l be seen that th i s proces s has a way Ofrestor ing the d res s ing unequa l ed by any other . I f r ibbons areext reme ly d i rty a number can be placed in a can O f gasol ine andal l owed to Stand , shak ing occas iona l l y . The re shou l d be but afew put into the can at a t ime as to c rowd them inj ures the texture . Gaso l ine shou ld a lways be u sed i n the Open a i r . B ad lyso i l ed r ibbons may al so be c l eaned by tak ing a teaspoon ful o fsoap bark to a pin t o f bo i l i ng water

,a l l owing th i s to stand unt i l

d i s so lved ; a fte r wh ich i t i s st rai ned , and out o f th i s th e r ibbon

i s b oarded as above . I f the co lors are cr imson , scar le t or yel low ,

a few d rop s o f O i l O f v i tr io l may be added to the r i nse - water

thus se tt ing the co lors . When wash ing r ibbons,s i l k , l ace s or

other l igh t mater ia l s,i t i s O ften neces sary to add a smal l quant i ty

o f e i ther alcoho l , benz ine or hou sehold ammon ia in order to cu tthe grease . E i ther o f these wi l l be found to be super ior to gasOli ne as th i s f requen t ly l eaves the mater ial w i th a gray cas t .

S i lk an d Sa t in .

A great sav ing may be made by the proper care and cl ean ingO f s i l k . Some very good methods f or do ing th i s are here in given .

S i lk s,as wel l as r ibbons

,may be cl eaned by tak ing equal part s

O f so f t lye— soap,al cohol and molasses . Rub the mixture we l l into

th e good s w i th a flanne l c loth,a fte rward s r ins ing we l l i n cl ear

cold wate r and i ron ing on the wrong s id e be fore dry . A formula

very s im i l ar and that has th e same resul t s i s , to one- fourth

pOund O f soap add one teaspoon ful O f sugar and a large coffeecup O f al cohol . The dus t should be thorough ly removed be foretry ing any o f th e cl ean ing p rocesse s . Hot co ff ee , f rom wh ichal l sed iments have been removed

,i s ve ry good w ith wh ich to

sponge s i lk . The co ffee removes the grease , and restores theluster . Sponge with sta l e beer to remove the sh ine caused fromwear ing . Gaso l i ne may be used w i thout in j ury to the s i lk ; i tshou ld be rubbed into the goods wi th another cloth

,as to rub the

p ieces O f s i lk together i n j u res the texture . When tak ing fromth e gasol ine , i t may be dr ied by shak ing or pound ing between'

cloth s bu t never by wr ing ing . B ad ly spotted s i lk may be cl eanedby rubb ing very hot bran into the so i led part s , a fterwards Shaking thorough ly and then rubbing w ith French Cha lk . I t shou l d

then be ro l l ed up and l e f t to s tand when i t w i l l come out cl eanand so ft . Sat in o r s i l k may be cl eaned with magnes ia or by rubb ing tho rough ly w i th sta le bread c rumbs and powde r blue mixed

,

a fterward s c lean ing wi th so f t cloths . The rubb ing O f the sat inshou l d a lways be done w i th the gra in . I t may be pressed on

e i ther s i de w i thout i n j u ry .

Velve ts .

The care and renovat i ng o f velvet i s another impor tan t sub

j ect . Al though permit t ing O f l e s s cl ean ing than most othermater ia l s , velvet i s a du rabl e One to buy as i t so i l s l e s s eas i lyand can be kept to look wel l f or a number o f s eason s .

The cru sh ing or matt ing O f the p i l e i s the mos t importan tfeatu re about the care O f velvet . When the nap or p i l e , as i t i scal l ed

,become s c ru shed i t may be eas i l y re s tored by hold ing th e

velve t r igh t s ide up over a pan O f steam ing wate r,dur ing wh ich

t ime the p i l e should be l igh tl y bru shed up w i th a so f t bru sh .

Equal ly as good a way i s to inver t a very h ot i ron , over wh ich i spl aced a wet cotton cloth . Over th i s pas s th e velvet

,r igh t s i de

up,brush ing l igh t ly un t i l the p i l e beg ins to loosen , when i t may

be l a i d on a flat sur face and the bru sh ing con t inued unt i l restored to i ts o r ig inal l u s te r . Cru shed s traw bra i d may al so behandl ed in th i s way . When hand l ing vel ve t or so ft s traw s

,care

should be taken not to p res s down the p i l e w i th the we t fingers .

To cl ean spot s on velve t,take pu re turpen t ine and with a

cl ean cloth sponge a smal l p l ace a t a t ime , w ip ing immed iatelyand i n th i s way con t inue unt i l per fect ly cl ean . I t shou ld then behung up in a warm room to d ry . I f necessary the p i l e maya ft erward s be ra i sed w i th the steam ing process .

Velvet canno t be pres sed on e i the r s ide without inj u r ing i t .

To dye vel ve t or vel veteen i s a very expens ive operat ion andcan be done succes s ful ly only by an exper t . I t i s then rarelysucces s ful and

,general ly speaki ng

,does not pay .

Fea t h ers and P lum es .

What i s con s i dered to be the mos t importan t subj ect in th i sfeature O f m i l l inery work i s the care and renovat ing o f ostr i chfeathe rs . Th i s , O f course , i s due to the amoun t o f money expended in th i s c l as s O f good s , and should be g iven such t ime and

care as befi ts a subj ect O f th i s importance .

One shou ld be very care fu l in curl ing or otherw i se car ingf or feathers not to break the fiber

,as a good plume i s eas i ly

ru ined i n th i s way . TO curl a feather,start at the base

,p icking

up only a few fibers at a t ime , s ay fou r to s ix , and w i th a featherkni fe , otherw i se a dul l kn i fe , proceed to curl them . Curl only theend s by pas s in g th em l i gh t l y ove r th e kn ife . Don

’t s po i l t h e

feather by t rying to make the cu rl s p i l e up,f o r as a rul e , the

fluffier the fibe rs the cheaper the p lume .

Light colored feathers may be cleaned by shaking them ina sack conta in ing flour

,meal or magnes ia . They may i f neces

sary be ;washed but fi rst t ry shak ing them up and down in acl ean bow l or pa i l o f gasol ine , as th i s gene ral ly cleans thembeau t i fu l ly and when hung up in the Open a i r w i l l become l ightand flu ffy .

A l ight colored feather may be success fu l ly washed byus ing so ft wate r and pure wh i te soap . Make a fine flaky sud s ,a fte r putt i ng i nto the water a few d rops O f ammon ia to so f ten i t .Dip the p lume up and down in the sud s unt i l per fectl y cl ean ,a fterward s r i n s ing wel l and d ry ing in the open a i r , when i t maya f terward s be curl ed . The p l ume shoul d unde r no c i rcumstancesbe washed in hard water . The da in t i e s t o f colo rs may be washedin th i s way . Wh i te breas ts of wings may be improved whenso i l ed w i th the dust

,by rubbing care fu l ly w i th French Chalk

to be had at any drug store .

TO bl each feather s , l eave them from three to fou r hours ina tep id

,d i luted sol ut ion o f b ichromate o f potassa to which i s

added a smal l quant i ty o f n i t r i c ac id . I f th i s l eaves the featherw i th a green hue

,p lace i t into a weak sol u t ion O f su lphur ic acid ,

a fter wh i ch r inse thoroughly and d ry . By th i s process , i f properly done

,the feathe r w i l l become a pu re wh i te .

Feathe rs may be dyed in the same manner as s traw bra id i fcare fu l ly done

,bu t perhaps the mos t succes s fu l way i s to mix

common tube Oi l pa int w i th cl ean gasol ine un t i l the des i red shadei s procu red and in to th i s immerse the plume a fte r wh ich i t i shung out in the open a i r to d ry .

Renovat ing o f any kind O f mater ial s shou ld be done careful ly and w i th pl enty o f t ime to pass through the var iou s p roces se s . Care should al so be taken that the utens i l s be absolutelycl ean and free f rom dust .

— 6 t

Miscel laneousHats should be given th e prope r care to preserve thei r l ooks

th roughout the season ; they should be dusted care fu l ly a fte r eacht ime worn

,the loops s traightened

,and then l a id away in boxe s

or oth er c l ean p l aces . I f damp o r we t,always d ry a hat be fore

putt i ng away , by W iping Off as much o f th e mo i stu re as poss ibl ew i th a c lean

,so f t c loth and a fte rwards hang ing a short d i stance

f rom the fi re to d ry .

When feathe rs are worn in the even ing,o r out in the damp

ai r,immed iately upon retu rn ing

,shake them over th e h ot a i r O f

an open regi s ter or grate . Th i s d r i es them qu ickly and resto res

the i r fluffiness . Feathers are al so great ly preserved by h angingf requent ly in the Open a i r . Sel ect a per fectly d ry day wi th butl i tt l e w ind . To prepare aga ins t an unexpected shower whereone has n i ce p lume s to p rotect

,i t i s wel l to fo ld a ch i ff on ve i l

a s smal l as pos s i bl e and p in in to th e crown o f the hat , to be

used i n such an eme rgency .

Ve i l s .

The buying o f vei l s is very important along the l i ne O f m i ll inery as the co lor and k i nd worn make a ve ry great d i fference inthe appearance O f th e comp l ex ion . I f ve i l s are not t o be wornto a d i sadvantage , they shoul d be sel ected w i th great care . Black

or wh ite , or a combinat ion O f the two,i s always a sa fe cho ice

and may be worn by most peop l e . Wh i l e they are to be hadw i th both bl ack and wh i te dot s

,the black

,when not annoy ing

to the eyes , i s espec i a l ly good fo r elderly peopl e .

When sel ect ing a colo red ve i l,the u sual p recaut ion shou ld

be taken agai nst inharmon ious e ffects i n connect ion w i th otherco lors , as we l l a s the e ffect o f the col or when worn over the face .

One should always go the farth est way around anyth ing tha twi l l re su l t i n a person l ook i ng s tag ey as noth ing i s in good tas tethat p roduces th i s e ffect . B r ight shades , l arge dot s or fig ures ,or wide int r i cate borders invar i ably e ffect th i s and are too ext reme i n fash ion to be sa fely i ndulged i n . Red

,purpl e , or o ther

br ight shades , g ive an ove rd res sed appearance bu t are espec ial lyd i s ast rous when worn ove r anyth ing bu t a fau l t l es s compl ex ion .

Ligh t b lue and p ink ove r a young face as a ru l e i n creases thecol o r and produces a f resh l ook to th e sk i n . Cream i s perhap sl e s s t ry ing to the comp l ex ion than a dead wh i te . A black ve i lhas more s tyl e and i s becom ing to more peopl e than any o therco lor

,and when worn for looks al one

,shou l d have a s ingl e

th read , square mesh , with sma l l dots p laced mode rate ly far apart .A l l b lack ve i l s are f o r adu l t s and shou ld no t be worn by theyoung M i s s . Wh en a bo rde r i s worn at a l l

,care shou l d be taken

that the drap ing doe s not br ing i t across the mouth,ne i ther

shou ld i t be draped too low ; t h us i t i s seen that the borde r mustbe nar row i f worn at a l l . TOO c lose a textu re i s apt to makethe ski n look wrink l ed . Bl ack ve i l s are be tte r f or t ravel l i ng ,

bei ng less eas i ly so i l ed,but the whi te one i s a bette r protect ion

to the eyes and again st sunburn . When buy ing,remember that

one good ve i l w i l l out—wear two cheap One s .

To fin i sh th e end s O f th e ve i l,baste i n a hem about an i nch

deep , a fte rward s bast ing to a p iece O f paper ; l engthen th e st i tchon the sewing mach ine and st i tch acros s ; the pape r may then betorn from the back and the hems pres sed wi th a warm i ron .

When removing a ve i l from the hat,ro l l

,rathe r than fo ld i t

,

as th i s prevent s i t c reas ing and he lps to keep i ts or iginal w i dth .

Ve i l s may be pres sed f requent ly without in j ur ing the texture,but

shou ld be done wi th a moderate ly h ot i ron . Shou ld th e i rons t i ck

,l ay Over i t a sheet O f newspape r . Ch i ffon s and othe r fine

mater i a l s may al so be pres sed in th i s way .

To c l ean a b l ack v e i l o r ch i ffon s,pas s i t th rough a so lu t i on

O f be e f ’s ga l l and water,and then through a so lut ion made by

d i s solv ing a smal l pi ece O f g lue in bo i l i ng wate r . A sma l l quant i ty O f gaso l i ne

,benz ine or ammon ia

,i n water wi l l a l so restore

i t ; i t may afterwards be passed th rough a glue wate r wh ich w i l lst i ff en i t . Squeeze , bu t never wring , a ve i l ; gradua l ly pu l l i n toshape when dry ing

,and wh i le ye t a ve ry l i t t l e damp 'not we t',

pres s i t between papers .

TO re store c rape , pass i t th rough a h ot so lut ion O f equa lpart s O f sk immed m i lk and water to which has been added asma l l p iece o f glue . The wrinkl e s may be removed by ro l l i ng i tOnto a ro l l er and thorough ly steaming i t

,l eav ing i t thu s unt i l dry .

W i th t h e Needl e .

Much O f m i l l inery work requ i r ing a doubl e th read , i t i swel l to know that many knot s are avoided by fi rst cutt ing fromthe spool a l ength o f th read ,

doubl ing and pass i ng th e two endstw i sted together back th rough the loop O f the doub l e th read .

Th i s forms a t iny kot at th e eye O f the need le , but one whichwi l l read i ly pas s th rough any ord inary fabri c . When des i r ingto us e a doubl e s i lk th read , always th read two st rands into the

need l e in the place o f one ; pu t the po in t o f th e need l e backth rough the s i l ks nearly midway o f the th read s fo rming a t inyknot , but insu r ing aga ins t tangl ing . Always thread a need l ewith th e l as t end off o f the spool .

Be fore star t ing to u s e the sewing mach ine , take a doubl epiece o f c lo th about th ree inches in w idth and p in th i s t igh t lya round the arm o f the mach ine near the spool ; in to th i s , st i ck anumber o f pins with in easy reach when wan ted .

Laces and most othe r fabr ics may be gathered by l engthening the st i tch on the mach ine and st i tch ing along the edge to begathered , then pu l l ing up the shutt l e or l ower thread , to formth e gathers ; th i s makes a much p re tt ier gather than the mach ineattachmen t u sed for th i s pu rpose . I f the mater ial to be s t i tchedi s ve ry fine

,l ay a p iece O f newspaper on the under s id e to pre

ven t i t s pucker ing .

One shou ld not at temp t to st i tch a b ias seam w i thout fi rs tbas t ing, as i t i s su re to form puckers that no amoun t o f i ron ingwi l l en t i rely do away w i th . Paper l a id nex t to the feed w i l l manyt imes p reven t a b ias seam from st retch ing .

The mend ing O f l aces,or fine fabr ics , IS much more evenly

done by u s ing number n ine hund red or number one thou sandBattenbu rg th read in a fine need l e in the p l ace o f Ord i narythread . I f wel l done

,th i s mend ing i s scarcely not i ceabl e .

Gloves .

To be wel l gloved,con tr ibutes very much toward the gen teel

and wel l d res sed appearance o f a woman and f or th i s reason ,unl e s s prope rly cared f or

,may become one o f the big i tems o f

expense in a year . Very much o f th i s may be saved , however ,by care ful care and cl ean ing . With gloves , as wi th al l o therth ings , the best way to p reserve them ,

i s to care f or them properly and thu s keep them f resh and new look ing as l ong as poss ibl e w i thou t the neces s i ty for cl ean ing . To do th i s , when re

mov ing the gloves,i n the pl ace o f ro l l i ng or fol d ing , st retch them

gently into shape,t ak ing each finger separately and then l ay

them away in a box wh ich i s long enough to permi t O f the i r bei ngl a i d fla t ; othe rw i se , lay them between papers .

Immed iate ly upon d i scover ing a hol e in a glove,i t shou ld be

mended , as i f worn w i thout , i t soon loses i t s shape and no

amoun t O f mend ing w i l l th en br ing it into pl ace . A glove , wh enbe ing mended

,shou ld be turned wrong s i de out and cot ton th read

u sed in the p lace o f s i l k , as s i lk soon cuts the k id . I t rs a

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th e hand s,to pin th e finge rs ou t st raight on a piece O f c loth and

hang th e c loth w i th wri st down, out i n the sun to d ry . Th i s

p revent s the wate r from st and ing in the end s O f th e finge rs .

G loves,espec i a l ly kid

, p reserve . th e wh itenes s and so ftnes so f th e sk in

,but a re O ften d i spensed w ith

,due to th e exce s s ive

perspi rat i on ; th i s may be counte racted by spri nk l ing i nto theglove powdered or r i s - root .

A good kid glove may be known by i t s odo r ; th e bes t one shav ing a st rong l eath ery sme l l . A good one al so , wh en st retched ,immed iately come s back into shape

,wh i l e a poorer one shows

more th e e ffec t o f the st retch ing . Th i s may be t r i ed on th e

wr i s t near the edge,w i thout hurt ing the g love .

Lac es .

Al l whi te l ace s may be washed in common soap and wate r,

r in sed and starch ed in ve ry th in,cooked starch . I f a pure wh i te

i s d e s i red,a l i t t l e b lu i ng i s added to th e starch ; i f a c ream ,

a

few teaspoons O f c l ear st ra ined co ffee may be added . Th ey maybe mad e an ecru by l aying f o r some t ime i n c l ear

,and qui te

st rong , co ffee . A l igh t,but not a washab l e co lor

,may be given

to wh i te lace s or r i bbons by fi rst wash ing,r in s ing

,and then lay

ing them in bo i l ed wate r poured ove r p ieces O f c rape t i s sue paperO f any color des i red . Be aut i fu l shades are p roduced in th i s wayand make a very conven ien t way O f carry ing out e ff ect s f or eveni ng wear .

Bl ack lace s may be mad e to lOOk l ike new by brush i ng themcare fu l ly to remove every part i c l e O f dust ; then pi nn ing themonto a board , putt i ng a p in into each proj ect ing po int , and sponging thorough ly wi th sta l e beer .

They are a l l owed to remain on the board unt i l d ry,when

th ey w i l l be found to ho l d a r i ch d res s i ng . A ve ry good l aceshou ld

,a fte r be i ng washed

,have i t s meshes st retched into shape

wi th an i vory st i l et to o r darn ing need l e .

S i lk s .I f unce rta i n a s to th e qual i ty o f s i lk

,pu l l out one O f the

fi l l i ng th read s and t ry i t to see i f i t i s st rong . There shou ld beve ry l i t t l e d i ffe rence i n the s i ze O f the warp and the fi l l i ng andth ey shou l d be about equal i n strength . Anoth er way , i s to ruba corner O f the s i lk between th e hand s a s though wash ing , a fte rward s smooth ing Out

,wh ich

,i f read i ly done

,shows i t to be a

good qua l i ty o f s i lk .

Hat Bands .

When a ha t band i s bad ly sta ined with persp i rat ion,try

sponging i t off w i th a solut ion made from th ree - four th s ounceO f wh i t e cast i l e soap to two ounces O f a lcohol and one—hal f ounceeach o f sulphur ic ether and aqua ammon i a . Th i s w i l l do bette rwork i f appl i ed w i th a brush . Afterward s

,r inse the band wel l

with c l ear ra in - water .

Spo ts and S t ains .

Exper ience w i l l teach one a great many th ings , but a wordo f caut ion p roperly heeded may be the means o f sav ing many adol l a r tha t would o therw i se be fool i sh ly spen t . A pad o f seve ralth icknesses o f wh i te mu s l in should be fo lded and p laced undera spo t to be removed . I t i s very neces sary that i t be wh ite i norder that no color may be absorbed dur ing the proces s O f c l eaning . One should always remember that , due to the d i ffe rence i nmater ial s , what would success ful ly cl ean one kind O f good s

,

migh t be the means O f ru in ing anothe r . Fi rst t ry the reagentto be u sed in cl ean ing the garment , on an ext ra p i ece O f the samemater ial , or on the garmen t i t se l f in an incon sp icuous p lace . I f

one fa i l s to remove a spot w i th one O f the preparat ions and des i re s to try anothe r , the fi rst should be thorough ly r insed orsponged out be fore attempt ing the second , as th e two migh t comb ine to fo rm a mos t form idabl e look ing spot that noth ing wouldremove . I f the re i s any o f the p reparat ion le ft a fter c l ean ing anart icl e

,i t should be pl aced in a l abel ed bott le

,stat ing exact ly

what i t contain s,and be pu t away for fu tu re use . Gasol i ne o r

benz ine , when u sed alone , may be poured into a can and le ftstand ing, when the d i r t w i l l sett l e to the bottom ,

l eav ing the topcl ea r ; th i s may be poured in to another can and saved fo r futureu s e . Gasol ine

,benz ine and tu rpen t ine

,Shou l d be handl ed w i th

great care and should not,unde r any c i rcumstances be u sed near

a fi re or open l igh t . Th i s i s espec ia l ly t rue o f gaso l i ne and benz ine .

Ch loro form or al coho l are very good to remove grease frommost fabr ics and wh i l e benz ine and gaso l ine may be used

,they

are l iabl e to , and very frequent ly do ,fo rm “r ings . Turpent i ne

i s th e mos t commonly used to remove pa int f rom l i nens,woo l ens

and cot ton,but

,wh i l e remov ing th e grease

,i t i s apt to inj u re the

t extu re wh en used on s i l k . Grease may be removed from boths i lks and woolens , by cover ing the spot th i ck ly wi th Frenchcha lk and over th i s , plac ing a paper ; a h ot flati ron i s th en set

upon th i s and al lowed to cool . I t may be necessary to t ry th i stwo or th ree t imes be fore the spo t i s en t i re ly removed .

To remove ink from l inen,cot ton or wool en , sponge with

m i lk un t i l al l o f the ink has been removed , and then take out thegrease by e i ther ord inary wash ing

, or- w i th b enz ine . Ink may

al so be removed f rom wool en s by app l y ing a compos i t ion con

s i st ing O f the wh i te o f an egg and a few d rops o f O i l o f v i t r iol ,wh ich i s a fte rward s sponged out w i th cl ean wate r . I f th i s i snot eff ectual , t ry us ing warm oxal ic ac id d i l uted by a l i tt l e water .' se seve ral app l icat i on s o f th i s i f neces sary . I f th i s i s to beu sed on wool ens , a prev iou s tes t shou ld be made .

To remove the spot s made by tar,apply swee t o i l or l ard ,

al low ing i t to s tand about an hou r ; s everal appl icat ions may benecessary ; a fte rward s , remove the grease .

Oxal ic ac id i s very good to remove i ron ru s t i f appl ied tothe spot wh i l e the mate r ial i s be ing s teamed w i th a h ot i ronover wh ich has been p l aced a we t cloth .

To a fru i t or w ine s ta in , apply a very l i t t l e potas s ium pe rmanganate and af terward s a few d rops o f sulphu rou s ac i d . Th i si s a bleach and can be used only on wh i te good s unl e s s a p rev ioustest be made and the colo r s found to stand . I f the sta ins are

s t i l l we t,bo i l ing wate r o r m i lk may be pou red th rough them w i th

very good resu l ts . A l i tt l e ammon ia may be added to the wateri f neces sary . Warm oxal ic ac i d d i l u ted and appl ied s evera l t imeswi l l remove any o rd inary s ta in on l inen or cotton .

Mi ldew may be removed by seve ral app l icat ions o f sal t andbutterm i lk , or French chal k , l emon j u ice , soap and sal t made intoa pas te and rubbed over the spots . Afte r each appl icat ion

,the

mi ldewed pl aces shou ld be exposed to th e rays O f the sun andal l owed to d ry . Th i s may be con t inued seve ral days i f necessary .

Coff ee s ta ins may be removed by spong ing with wate r , towh ich has been aded a smal l quant i ty o f glyce r ine and ammon ia .

S ta ins l e f t by the sew ing mach ine may be removed by am

mon ia .

Colors that have been taken out by ac i ds may be restoredby ammon i a .

Pe rspi rat ion sta ins may be sponged out w i th a solu t i on madefrom th ree - part s each o f e the r and al cohol to one o f ammon ia .

TO se t colo rs in s i l k , wool en , or cotton , d i ssolve one tabl e

spoon o f Ox Gal l to one gal lon o f warm wate r .

An excel l ent sol ut ion and on e used by n ear ly al l expe rtcl eaners , f or remov ing spot s and stai ns , and espec ia l ly on heav ie rfabr ics

,i s composed o f alcohol , one - s ixth ounce , glycer ine , one

fourth ounce,aqua ammon i a one ounce

,sulphuri c eth er

,one

fou rth ounce , powdered cast i l e soap one - fourth ounce ; theseingred ient s should be d i ssolved in enough water to make one

p int . Thi s may be kept in a wel l co rked bottl e to be used at anyt ime in cl ean ing .

In concl u s ion,i t wou l d be imposs i bl e for u s

,due to the very

broad fie l d embraced by the m i l l i nery work , to be spec ific in our

var ious ru les and reagent s . We have , however , given al l o f thees sent i al s l a id down in the work

,wh ich

,i f care ful ly stud ied and

fol l owed,wi l l form the nucl eus wh ich exper ience alone w i l l

complete .