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Dave Collins leaning into the 22,000-plus cubic feet per second, Class III Lunch Counter rapids, Snake River, Wyoming, by Greg Von Doersten

ALA MOANA A Familiar Shadow on the Horizon, by Gerry Lopez

CRAFTSMAN Reflections & Background: The Shape of Sup, by Steve Boehne

THE WEST SIDE New Sport, New Ways to Wipeout, by Steve West

VOLUME SEVENTEEN, NUMBER FOUR

Pictures worth readingThe Photography Annual

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Photos: privatemauichef.com | Pu’u | Ditty

BYRON KURTWINNER 2009 FRYSLAN SUP 11-CITY TOUR

BYRON KURT

SUP_jouranl_0110.indd 2-3 9/22/2009 2:39:07 PM

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Aloha and Welcome to The Rockies Whitewater kayaking is how Ken ‘Hobie’ Hoeve and I have gotten our water fix since moving from northeast Florida to Colorado 15 years ago. What a big change for us both! We missed surfing… until now. After years of kayaking exploits on some of the hardest class 5

rivers we could find, we have now discovered the beauty and fun of paddling boards down the river and it’s keeping us at a whole new level on the Fun Zone. One day, while paddling a class 2 section of our backyard run on the Eagle River, we saw this stack of logs diverting the water. Stepping outside the box—rather jumping off it—proved to be a fun way for Ken to test Surftech’s Blacktip board in preparation for its new design. Ken landed this jump and paddled away—and, yes, the board held up. I’m just glad he cleared his safety leash before jumping or it could have gotten ugly. –Matt Solomon, Photographer

That’s Classic

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TIM McKENNA West Set Shift: Laird Hamilton, Teahupoo “I remember this set, it was a really west one on a mostly south swell. It took our boat driver by surprise, he had to accelerate out a little bit so we wouldn’t get caught inside. I clicked off this shot as we edged over the wave. Laird caught the most set waves that day.” –Tim

“Australian Tim McKenna lives in Tahiti. I first met Tim years ago on a snowboard trip to Russia with the Oxbow team from France. He’s basically made a career of shooting this wave. He’s got it down.” –Laird

VOLUME 17, NUMBER FOUR, WINTER 2009-2010“The photographic journal of standup paddling”Published by Clay FeeterAssociate Publisher: Steve Sjuggerud Photographic Consultant: Glenn DubockDesign and Layout by Kerry Struble; Birchblaze.comOrchestrator: Joyce Bilodeau Editorial Consultants: John Dubock, Tom Byrnes,Clark Merritt, Kurt Feeter, Rob Driscoll, Tom CraigColumnist: Steve WestCopy Editor: Zachary ErnstNewsstand Consultant: Tom FerruggiaWebsite Optimizer: Adam ChampagneInterns: Kyle Laubach, Kira, Sydney & Anna Feeter

Standup Journal is published quarterly in March, June, September and December by Clay Feeter, P.O. Box 360 (UPS/FedEx: 16 Ridge Rd.) Center Barnstead, NH 03225 clay@standupjournal.com Subscriptions: StandupJournal.com/subscribeTo best enjoy our publication: Use your hands to flatten the gutter. We also recommend viewing the images well lit by a reading lamp or the sun… and cranking up the tunes!

14 THE PHOTOGRAPHY ANNUAL

98 THE SHAPE OF SUP By Steve Boehne

110 THE WEST SIDE By Steve West

112 PEOPLE WHO MAKE THE JOURNAL

116 PUBLISHER’S NOTE From Glenn ‘Ridin’ Shotgun’ Dubock

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Photo: Don King

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14 15MAXIME HOUYVET Manu Bouvet, Mainland Mexico “We were in Mexico trying to find some good sup surfing conditions. Puerto Escondido was not really an option; too busy, and deadly for the board since we only bought one and would have hated to break it and have nothing to ride! We can’t name this wave because localism is extremely heavy in this area. If you don’t have a local contact you just can’t have access to the spots. It was not easy, but the reward was worth the effort.” –Manu

Camera in hand, our eyes are always open “It was a very long way through the cactus and therockstofindthisspot.It’sabeachbreakbut thewaterissuperclearandhot...perfect,and lonely;justdolphinsandsnakessometimes.” –Max

PHOTOGRAPHYPHOTOGRAPHY

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RICHARD HALLMAN Nikki Gregg, Punch Bowl Falls, Eagle Creek, Oregon “River running is nothing to take lightly. Getting your board lined up to make a big drop while riding it tail first, without fins in a fast-moving river current is a challenge. One mistake and you’re swimming over the falls hoping you don’t land on your board, or the rocks—a dangerous option. Total concentration is needed here. At this point I knew my positioning was good, and suddenly an uncontrollable smile sprang onto my face reflecting, I think, the appreciation of joining with nature’s power; a moment of pure awareness—a completely perfect state of being.” –NikkiEditor’s Note: Photographer Hallman had a scheduled slide show in Hood River later this day, so he slipped a few shots up on the screen of Nikki and her boyfriend Dan Gavere running Punch Bowl. When this shot of Nikki flashed onto the screen, “The response was of complete shock: an initial silence followed by a lot of ‘OH MY GODs!!’… hooting and hollering!” We asked Nikki why she goes tail first. She replied, “There is a rock near the bottom of this drop that is best avoided by riding the board tail first. There is much more rocker in the front of the board; this method lifts the board higher in the air. If you rode the board nose first it might hit the rock and eject you, quite violently, before landing the drop! “We only do this for waterfalls. We run rivers with fins in. Dan and I turn the boards tail first/fins first when approaching and paddling through shallow sections because the worst fall you can have is your fins catching a rock and launching you face first off the board, possibly onto another rock!”

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PAUL GILL Chris ‘Guts’ Griffiths, Sandside, Northern Scotland “This part of Scotland is so beautiful, but especially in late summer when the fields are full of the smell of just-cut hay and the water temperature is at its warmest, around 14 degrees Celsius [57 degrees Fahrenheit]. Even at this time of year the crowds are minimal and you can find some real solitude around almost every corner. It’s like turning back the clock 30 years or more!” –Guts

BUZZY KERBOX Maalaea Bay, Maui “Sharing time in the summer swells. They got some great set waves this day, and also had some wipeouts, but the dog would climb right back on the board for more.” –Buzzy

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HANK FOTO (Below left) Catchin’ on in Haleiwa Harbor, Oahu. KIYOTAKA KITAJIMA (Below middle) Cruising Iriomote Island, Okinawa. “It’s very fun to advance in the jungle by sup and suddenly arrive at this waterfall in the mangrove forest,” says Tomo Murabayashi of Omaezaki, Japan. BRYAN ELKUS (Below right) Lightning Bolt Maui shop owner and local ripper, Frank Forbes, with one of his many custom shaped boards. Of this design, Frank notes, “I grew up surfing, not paddling, so I wanted my sup board to surf like my surfboards. To think just two years ago I was riding a fiberglass 12’ x 29” x 5” sup board that surfed like a barge and now I’m on an epoxy 8’4” x 27” x 3.75” that surfs just like a surfboard. I can’t wait to see what is going to change next.”

DAN FISKE (Middle) “My first thoughts as I scrambled to get my camera out of the bag to shoot this guy paddling at Kahului Harbor (which only barrels overhead one or two swells a year) was that he must be really good… or on vacation.” –Dan

MIKE JONES (Above left) TJ Saeman on the day he and brother Bryce first sup’d big Wedge, Newport Beach: “These are my little junior lifeguard buddies, Jack Vandermeulen and Dylan Hord. After I would wipe out, my board would get caught in the lateral current and wash down the beach, and that’s where these guys ran down and brought it back to me as I was exiting the water. Thanks guys!” CLAY VALVERDE (Above middle) Kainoa McGee. KIM ENRIQUES (Above right) Team Jimmy Lewis Central Cal Coast: (l-r) young ripper Tristan Harrison, Bill Callahan, Richard ‘Laird’ Harrison, Wart Craig, Don Baxter (father of Central Coast sup’ing) and Mike Enriques (kneeling).

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MARGARETA ENGSTROM Scott McKercher, Vietnam “These moments definitely fit into the Bizarre Category of my sup paddling experiences. We were kind of locked into the standard tourist routine of going for a guided cave walk with the hordes when I decided I’d way rather check the area out by paddle power. So, taking off around the corner from all the tourist boats I happened onto a floating village. Even for people who live on the water, seeing someone standing up on a board was pretty strange and it caused a bit of a commotion. Kids were freaking out, calling me over and jumping on the board for a ride. I think it was a great way to slip into their water world and be welcomed in with big smiles. The rest of the trip we lived on junks and went for little exploratory paddles each day. It was pretty surreal.” –Scott

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LUKE HOPKINS Great Falls National Park, Virginia/Maryland Border Mike Mathwin (left) discussing potential standup avenues with Hopkins, who set the camera on a timer for this shot.

SERGIO VILLALBA MORALES Kai Lenny, Siam Park, Tenerife, Spain “This wave is insane! I had so much fun. The way I caught the waves was I would start to paddle in close to the back wall of the pool, and all of a sudden a wave would pop up and I would drive down the face into a bottom turn and work it all the way to the end of this huge pool! The waves come every 45 seconds, so you can paddle back out just in time for the next one.” –Kai

JON ‘SHAGGY’ McLAUGHLIN Shaggy, of Oregon-based Sawyer Paddles, digs deep on Union Falls Pond; part of last summer’s solo standup canoe expedition on the Northern

Forest Canoe Trail, from Old Forge to Plattsburg, in the Adirondacks. “The canoe is the way to go for expedition style, multi-day sup trips,” says Jon. “Load it down with gear and go for

days!” Shaggy paddled 150 miles over a 12-day period, completely self-contained with 150-plus

pounds of gear. This water trail traces parts of the old fur trade routes, connecting chains

of lakes with sections of rivers. It includes a handful of mile-plus long portages. “At the end

of my trip I had to cross a bay in Lake Champlain during a heavy gale; 3-to-4-foot capping wind waves coming at me from my starboard side. When big ones would hit I’d have to do these

SUPER deep braces where half of my sup paddle was in the water! I finally rode the surf onto

the beach.” Search “stand up canoeing” on YouTube.com for some cool clips; also check out

Shaggy’s trip blog: standupcanoeing.blogspot.com, or plan your own NFCT adventure at

northernforestcanoetrail.org

NEIL ‘MOONWALKER’ ARMSTRONG (Top left) Noah Shimabukuro, Mexican Pipeline “Crouched just so, eyes down the line, paddle scraping the face, Noah’s style is quiet, calm and calculated whether he’s here at Puerto Escondido or winning Rainbow Sandals’ King & Queen of Dog Patch wave contest at San Onofre.” –Neil

SKIP BROWN (Top right) Luke Hopkins peels into heavy water below Great Falls, on the Potomac River. JORDAN HETRICK (Above) Maui’s extreme class off to a fast start at the Olukai race.

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BEN THOUARD “With a board mount camera you feel so close to the rider! You feel like you’re

in the picture. On this frame Manu dropped in a bit late so

the nose made a water explosion at the bottom. Manu is a good surfer. It didn’t take him much

time to get used to the weight of the camera and housing on the

nose, but there were some near misses, and he realized, ‘You

don’t want to have the whole contraption flying over your

head.’ Luckily there were no injuries.” –Ben

MOONWALKER Pipeline: Kainoa McGee x 2 “I was actually

shooting with Bonga Perkins and some of the longboard guys over

at Haleiwa earlier in the day—sort of a celebration of his latest world

title win—when a couple of the guys mentioned that Ekolu and Kainoa were going to be out at

Pipe late in the afternoon. Surfing a sup at Pipe is one thing, doing

sup when Second Reef Pipe is breaking is on the precipice of

incredibly brave/insanely nuts. Both of them caught some bombs

and all on the beach were hyped at the performance. The buzz

was palpable. Kainoa has already proven himself as a waterman,

riding every type of board (he used to be a professional

bodyboarder), and now taking it up a notch with standup.” –Neil

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ROBERT ZALESKI (Left) Marcus Young: Surfing Utah “Marcus is a fellow Hollywood stuntman buddy of C4’s Brian Keaulana. This is a Malibu wakeboard boat designed to throw up a surge by adding water ballast within the hull.” –Ted Rutherford JIM BREWER (Top right) Santa Cruz surf legends Flea and Barney with Brenda Scott Rogers of Hotline Wetsuits. DAN GAVERE (Above middle) Josh Bechtel’s puppy was hesitant at first, but eventually got on the board and was instantly comfortable, walking the plank, front to back in Buena Vista, Colorado. KARL MEINHARDT (Above right) Keoni Downing and Tiare Lawrence talking shop at the Kuikaika event, Makaha.

PETER AUGUSTIN (Below) Waterman performance artist Mickey Eskimo, accompanied by the love of his life, hit it at dawn through the dreamy, fog-draped canals of Venice... how much more romantic could it get? During Mickey’s “sup mission” he was nicknamed il pirati de canale grande (pirate of the grand canal) by the gondoliers and water taxi captains as he dodged various carabinieri (police) boats and other obstacles to leave his own artistic impression on the below-sea-level city. Check out some of the footage on youtube.com by searching “Mickey Eskimo, Venice,” or go to eskyflavor.com for a tour of Mickey’s sup dreams.

32 33HANK FOTO Darrick Doerner, Waimea “We call him Double D for short. From lifeguarding, to helping pioneer tow surfing, to being one of the best surfers at Sunset, to going over the falls at Waiamea Bay as a stunt double for Patrick Swayze in Point Break, Darrick is a true waterman. He has seen and done it all on the North Shore and now he is just trying to be the best father figure for his son Tiger. This is Double D during the Eddie Aikau contest ceremonial paddle out at Waimea.” –Hank

PERRY NELSON (Below left) Warren Currie flowing with the ice down the North Saskatchewan River, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Warren remembers, “This was the last ‘nice’ day we had before plunging into winter, so I decided to take advantage of it. The following day the temperature dropped to -22 degrees and the river froze solid until early April. Sup is always an adventure.” CORRAN ADDISON (Below right) Christine Pinsonneault and Andreanne Dumas, Montreal “We have beautiful bodies of water to sup on here, and beautiful bodies on sups! Either way, it’s a wonderful thing.” –Corran

BATTLE OF THE PADDLE ADCOMING

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DANA EDMUNDS Greg Pavao testing out his new 9’6” on the West Side.

JEOFFREY NATHAN (Above left) Kim James cools down after a hard paddle at Coastal Urge’s bi-weekly Sup Race Club in Wilmington, North Carolina, where (Above middle) the women’s class paddles back to the Fish House after a 3.5 mile Harbor Island tour. JAYPEGPHOTO Marathon Sup Victory: Devises to Westminster Canoe Race “Paddling 125 miles over four days seemed like a great idea back in the pub!” England’s John Hibbard told a friend minutes after his longest paddle. The hardest thing was the training for this longstanding annual springtime traditional sit-down race, according to John, “Because you have to start preparing in mid winter; black nights, cold winds.” If training partner Anthony Cooper and Hibbard could survive the 400-plus miles of training, “125 miles during the Thames River race would be easy, right? It was amazing to cross the finish line in London and silence all doubters. There is a movement from kayak purists to stop us from entering this event in the spring—interesting times, we’ll see what happens!”

MAXIME HOUYVET “Campbell Farrell from New Zealand and I caught outer Spreckelsville on a really nice 4-6-foot spring day—no wind, which is pretty rare for that time of the year.” –Manu Bouvet

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DANA EDMUNDS Shaper Dave Parmenter (left) and Greg Pavao open ocean training near Makapuu, Oahu, prior to the Rainbow Sandals Molokai Crossing.

MOONWALKER Central Surf Tube Contest, Puerto Escondido, Mexico “It’s almost impossible to talk about the Saeman brothers separately—they surf together, train together and charge hard together—brotherhood and backup team all in one. This is TJ with speed and conviction, a Saeman Bros. trademark.” –Neil “Oh, I remember this wave perfectly. It was the first day of the contest and my first heat. I had a late drop and got lucky enough to stick the landing in time to set up for the tube. That contest was a lot of fun, gracias to Puerto’s Angel Salinas.” –TJ Saeman

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JODY McDONALD “Sup board shaper John Amundson, of Oahu, and some friends scored 10 days of great Somoan waves, culture and adventure. It was a boat journey to a new spot each day with no particular goal other than to surf. Our unspoken, easygoing theme along the way might make a good name for a yacht: You get the drift” –Jody

40 41JIM RUSSI (Top) Leleo Kinimaka leaves his mark! That’s Vanina Walsh gracing the horizon as she scampers back for more at Waikiki.

MOONWALKER (Above left) Duane Desoto, Puerto Escondido “After so many days of tubes I was getting delusional and thought I could walk on water.” –Duane

ANGELO CORDERO (Above right) Thomas Kosmoll riding it out at Tres Palmas, Puerto Rico.

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JORDAN HETRICK (Above) Stetching it out.

SAUVAGE OCEAN (Right) Sophie Wattrelot and her husband Didier,

both from France, have two kids born and raised on boats. The

couple charters their 60-foot sailing yacht Sauvage Ocean on cruises to tropical waters, Pacific islands and

also to cold places, most recently to Antarctica where Sophie broke out

her sup board and “paddled among the icebergs, in front of glaciers

and with the penguins.”GLENN DUBOCK (Bottom, right)

UC Santa Barbara soccer star Genelle Ives finds coastal cruising

a perfect compliment to her time on the practice field.

SWILLY (Below) Jamie Mitchell, Eastern Oz “Shooting Jamie

Mitchell (pictured) and Billy Watson [see pg. 85] on this day, made me

realize what great waterman these guys are. Jamie is just insane; how

fit he is. At one point he took three 10-foot set waves on the head. No life jacket, no wetsuit, just him and

his boardies and board; got washed down the reef, came up with a

smile on his face, then he was right back there charging more insane

pits. It was one of those days I will never forget. Mother ocean at

her best.”” –Swilly Williams

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TODD PATRICK Noland Martin at Paul Tefft’s Standup River Championships, Glenwood Springs, Colorado When Oahu ripper Noland Martin’s friend and C4 teammate Liam Wilmott asked what it was like transitioning from riding Hawaiian waves to surfing standing river waves here, Noland replied, “Bra, it was kinda cool having a crowd so close on the river bank that you could hear them cheering and clapping. This was only my second time on a river wave, so I was still feeling it out. After the event was over I stayed there. It was just me and this young, big shot kayak kid named Dane Jackson who had been competing on the other side of the river at the US Kayak Team Trials. The trials had ended and now he was out for fun, doing loops on an old bodyboard. I started to really get river waves by watching Dane lay down some big snaps.”

ALLEN MOZO We photographers gotta work our gills, too! “This shot is taken from the pit a split second before Robby Naish committed to a rail to start his turn; fun angle to shoot from—always a workout and challenge! I call it the penalty box. Robby has a unique paddle stance. You can always picture a windsurf boom or kitebar in his hands.” –Allen

“I shot this landmark event from the bridge to give a different perspective of river standup and the crowds that came out to see what this new sport is all about.” –Todd

JIM RUSSI “TJ [Saeman] is a summertime lifeguard from Laguna Beach, Calif., but spends a lot of the winter on the North Shore. Two days before he had to go back to Cali we ran to town for an early south swell. After another Hawaiian big wave season under his belt, coming hard off the bottom of this little Waikiki wave was feeling pretty free and easy for him.” –Jim

TIM McKENNA “Patrice Chanzy scores one of the biggest and cleanest barrels of the day. Raimana is cheering him on from the channel as a UK production crew films surfers Tom Lowe and Fergal Smith for an upcoming feature film documentary on extreme sports entitled Relentless.” –Tim PETER SPAIN Tom Thompson of Incline Village, Nevada, lays down fresh tracks on Lake Tahoe’s wintertime glass.

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25 Years Later: Gerry Lopez returns to Ala Moana with a sup under his arm There was a time in my life when I thought there was nowhere else in the world I wanted to be during the Ala Moana surf season. And for many years, the Ala Mo parking lot or line-up consumed my summer days. Of course, when we discovered Bali

and Indonesia and later when I moved to Maui, those Ala Mo days drifted away from my consciousness. Sadly, 25 years or more went by without any Ala Mo sessions. People started calling the place “Bowls,” which to me and the old guys seemed out of place as the Bowl was one take-off at a dynamic surf spot that had several starting places depending on the surf size and swell direction. Returning this summer for my first Molokai Channel crossing on a sup board, I also had the opportunity to return to the most favorite surf spot of the 1960’s and ‘70’s phase of my life. Many of the younger crew and even several of the old guys still surf there and it was like an old reunion, especially since the waves were great. According to them, it had been one of the most consistent summers in a long while. I laughed and replied that they were too young to remember it used to always be like this. But the conditions were perfect and even though I was riding a sup, the boys’ welcome was warm and full of aloha. During a late afternoon session as the tide went out, several sets began to show at the Bowl and I hung there in hopes of scoring what we used to call a “Pole Set.” I enjoyed a few nice, smaller Bowl waves when suddenly I saw the old familiar shadow on the horizon as a bigger set approached. I had been talking story with Jun Jo, one of the younger hot shot surfers and we both paddled outside. The first wave looked really good and I began to paddle for it but noticed Jun was in a good position as well and had a very expectant look on his face so I motioned him to take it. I turned to paddle over his wave, seeing the next one was quite a bit bigger. I had to paddle hard to get placement. I was the only one in the Bowl and I could hear the guys in the Middle yelling for me to go. While the wave doesn’t appear so big in the photos, it was enough to get my full attention as I thought how it was going to be to backdoor the Bowl section on a sup board. But I had great confidence in my new Surftech 8’-11” quad as I spun in the pit. Stroking into the wave brought back a rush of old memories with a very strong and familiar feeling. It was like coming home and not having been away for 25 years. A gust of wind blowing out of Manoa Valley combed the texture perfectly as I dropped down the face deep to let the bowl form ahead. Then it was there as quickly as a magic trick and I turned into that gaping hole where I had once spent so much of my youth. As it had always done before, I felt the wave’s energy run through my board, feet, up my legs, into my guts and bloom into a big smile on my face. Yeah, coming home is a nice feeling. –Gerry Lopez

DANA EDMUNDS Gerry received a warm “Welcome Home!” from surfers, many of whom were not born yet when Lopez, Michael Ho, Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Larry Bertlemann and the rest of that hot Ala Moana crew first hit the water here in the 70s.

PAT HUBER “The swoop” was briefly on display last summer, Gerry reveling in that “familiar shadow on the horizon.”

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JIM RUSSI (Left page, top) “Young Vanina Walsh emulating the zen master, Leleo Kinimaka, at Waikiki.” –Jim

MOONWALKER (Left page, bottom) Qaulicum, Vancouver Island, Canada “Rachel Jacobs heads for the bridge as Colin Kearns, owner of Island Longboards, and a buddy get a quick cover-up thanks to a low hanging tree. This shot epitomizes Canada in summer: clean, clear, beautiful and balmy. I’ve shot in many countries, but Canada is one of my all time favorites, man I miss that place—I’ll definitely be spending more time there.” –Neil

WES PRACHT (Above) TJ Saeman: First ever sup’ing of The Wedge, Newport Beach, Calif. “This was my last wave on the [July] 24th. I was sitting out in the back for a while waiting for the one that looked like it was going to set up nicely. Then this set came: I paddled over the first wave and saw the second—I had a good angle on it so I turned around and paddled to where I thought the side wave and main peak were going to collide. I got into it pretty early and outside so I had enough time to set up a bottom turn before the closeout. I was surprised I went as far as I did on this one! My brother Bryce and I scored this day at the Wedge; to get such a powerful wave this close to home is rare.” –TJ

BEN THOUARD (Below) Steady Urgency “Didier Tin Hing is almost caught in the flats on a west bowl shift at Teahupoo. Sometimes at Teahupoo you have to think not just about which wave you’re taking but also which one you should NOT go on! Didier had just taken an inside, smaller wave. He kicked out and then a really west set surprised him, which meant he really had to hurry. The scariest thing here is being pounded on the inside where the water is shallowest! As you can see, Didier has given two super quick, hard strokes on his left side, which threw him a little too much to the right—the wave would have hit him from the side. This shot shows a big left side paddle explosion and then his super quick transition to the right side stroke to straighten his board out so it can pierce the wave straight on.” –Ben

SWILLY (Right page, top) Keahi DeAboitiz, at just 16 year of age, placed 3rd in the 2009 Australian national sup championships, held at Port Macquarie. To watch him in action you’ll be thrilled—and get some sweet style pointers—with a “Keahi DeAboitiz” search on youtube.com.

DARRELL WONG (Right page, middle left) “I met Eddie Vedder [singer for the band Pearl Jam] through a mutual friend. I got to know Eddie before I knew about how big a star he was. It was the same thing with my friend Ben Harper [musician/songwriter]… a relaxed way to get to know both of them. Eddie has a certain majesty about him… among all the chaos he seems at peace.” –LairdNote: Eddie shows his support for environmental activism by sporting an Earth First! tattoo on his right calf. The logo is a monkey wrench crossed with a stone hammer.

COURTESY CHUCK (Right page, middle right) Leo Carrillo Beach, Malibu: Hobie team rider Byron Kurt holds up his daughter Brin as well as his 2nd place booty for his stock 12’6 class finish. Overall and 18’ unlimited board class winner was Chuck Patterson.

CASEY ROSSI “This Costa Rican sup surfer goes by the name of Tiger. There’s a new crew of guys here who are standing up and paddling into a few bombs, pushing each other day by day.” –Casey

PERRY NELSON (Right page, bottom) “My brother Scott and I had a short session in the West Edmonton Mall wave pool the other day to show the managers and lifeguards what sup is all about. We have opened the door for future sessions. Really fun time to be indoors but still be in full sunlight and warm water in the middle of a Canadian winter.” –Warren Currie, The Easy Rider Surf Shop, Alberta

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BOB BANGERTER “Even Kai Lenny knows that there is more to life in Hawaii than big surf and high winds... Kai and Inanna Carter enjoying a sunset cruise at home on Maui’s north shore.” –Bob

MORGAN HOESTEREY “I was up at Pipe the other day while Kainoa McGee was out on his standup. I got a photo that I thought may fit in with your magazine’s more backed-off style. It is kind of a different view of Pipe... shows the whole wave. I have so many shots of him at Pipeline that look exactly like what everyone else has, and this is the first one that I thought was truly different.” –Morgan

JS CALLAHAN/TROPICALPIX (Above left) “The Silver Dragon tidal bore in Hangzhou, China, is the largest in the world, reaching up to 10 feet on the biggest tides of the year. Along with size it also offers a long ride. Frenchman Eric ‘The Hulk’ Audoy rode this wave for more than six miles upriver on his standup, setting a new world record.” –John

JODY McDONALD (Above, right) Moehau Goold dices and slices: “It took a tip from Pete Cabrinha, who joined us on this trip, nearly a year of planning, airline flights half-way around the world, a 24-hour, mean ocean passage… all of this to get to a place that none of us knew anything about, and that we can’t tell you about either, except to say, ‘Look what we found.’” –Jody

TIM DITTY (Above, left) TJ Saeman, Puerto Escondido.

KALIANG (Above, right) “After spending two and half months in Hawaii, I decided to go to the Mentawais for a couple months. When I got here I made friends with two guys, Kaliang and Andy, both ripper surfers. Kaliang plays guitar exactly like Jack Johnson and shoots photos damn well, too. So for the past month I have been diving, surfing, suping, and entertaining the guests here at Kandui.” –TJ

CHRISTINE PINSONNEAULT Corran Addison runs the third falls of the Seven Sisters on the Rouge River, Quebec, Canada. You’ll notice Corran drew quite the crowd of photo hounds, hikers and onlookers, who he says had caught wind about “the nutter on a surfboard running the class IV section of the river.”

GLENN DUBOCK “Peter Trow is one of my all time favorite photo subjects. He is willing to paddle down any river, hike over any sand dune and stroke into any size wave, even if the locals are watching him and wondering just what the heck he is doing so far from shore.” –Dubock

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KENNY SMITH (Above) “Ya, Kenny is a good mate of mine and he wanted to shoot something different so we came up with this shot. Sort of business like but still casual, wearing the slippers you know… just thought it looked cool to try something a little out of the ordinary.” –Jamie Mitchell

CHANDLER WILLIAMS (Right) Baytowne Marina in Sandestin, Florida, provided an idyllic setting for fierce competition among local lifeguards during the YOLO Board Stand Up Paddle Series; the South Walton Lifeguards Black team winning first place.

DARRELL WONG Mark Raaphorst and Andrea Moller looking for that pot of gold “The development of sup distance board shapes and designs in a matter of a couple years has been significant: short and wide to long and narrow, glass and foam to carbon composite and hollow, fixed fin to active steering... but, I wonder what shapes I’ll be laughing at 10 years from now. I’ll probably be saying I can’t believe we were riding that!” –Mark, Sandwich Island Composites designer, Maui

Ninety percent of photography is just being there “A tourist visiting from New York once told me that he never saw a rainbow until he came to Hawaii... imagine that! Well, I think people here are so use to growing up with them that we just take them for granted. I don’t get excited about rainbows outside of my Maui home... but cruising down the North Shore of Molokai with Mark Raaphorst and his friends, and having one appear down the coast in my line of sight was so cool... Look! Anuenue!” –Darrell

PATRICE GUENOLE Four year old Malo shares a deep love for his father’s passion of standup. “He can go for three-hour sessions each day,” says pops, Gongsup founder Patrice Guenole.

DAN FISKE (Right) Conceived and organized by Holland’s Anne-Marie Reichman last summer, the 11-Cities Tour Race through her home country caught it all: heavy competition in everything from glassy waters to the 50 mph remnants of Atlantic Hurricane Bob... luckily the gale was mostly at racers’ backs. US racer Byron Kurt and Anne-Marie were the winners.

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TAYLOR ROBERTSON Dan Gavere on the North Fork of the Feather River, California “Capturing the perfect whitewater image requires a combination of camera control and knowledge of river hydraulics. After 15 years of shooting kayakers plunging off waterfalls, I have been able to transfer that to river sup photography.” –Taylor

“Just minutes before this shot was taken I spotted a whole family of river otters swimming up from eddy to eddy and occasionally jumping out of the river to play and frolic like they were having a great time. I thought how lucky am I to be out here in such a beautiful place, and lucky enough to see one of my favorite animals. I don’t think I would have spotted them if I had been in a kayak, so I felt fortunate once again to be reaping the benefits of my standing position. Also, being able to paddle in a place that makes your hair stand on end because of it’s beauty is priceless. These are the moments I live for.” –Dan

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TRACY KRAFT The Virgin Islands Her mid-day session winding down, Maui’s Tomoko Okazake heads in for a late lunch, a little rest… then back for more!

BEN THOUARD “Sup surfing Teahupoo is one of the heaviest experiences ever, and if you don’t pay attention you will pay the ultimate price... keep your eyes wide open” –Chuck Patterson

BOB BANGERTER (Bottom) The Back Side Newness is around every corner when you view it from your own small craft, paddle in hand.

IMAGES BY BEN THOUARD. A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME IN PERU Carine Camboulives and Manu Bouvet, accompanied by their friend, photographer Ben Thouard, traveled across Peru last spring, exploring via their sup and windsurf boards. They traveled between the 12,000- foot high Lake Titicaca (Top right) and the deserted coastline of northern Peru and to Chicama (Top left), the longest left point breaks in the world.

“What we found is an amazing history—the history of our sport and our passion for watersports, and proof that surfing was born in northern Peru 2,500 years ago. Was standup paddle surfing how people rode waves for the first time? “Apart from the controversial idea it is interesting to establish the connection between the ocean-related activities practiced by ancient cultures in northern Peru and the modern surfing, especially sup surfing.

“We started on this quest six years ago with our first trip to Peru, and while stopping in the small fishing village of Huanchaco, 500 miles north of Lima, we were hypnotized by the sight of fishermen riding waves aboard their Caballitos de Totora (reed boats called ‘little horses’ for their instability). They use bamboo as a paddle. This scene had been taking place on the same beach, using the exact same ‘boat’ for nearly 2,500 years! Several archaeological sites are there to prove it!” –Manu

“What if standup paddle surfing was the actual way people rode waves for the first time?” –Manu Bouvet

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(Above) Jamie Mitchell, Alaska “This day was too small to tow so I decided to give it a go on the sup. It was a real challenge. Cold as hell, plus all the rubber I had to wear made it just hard to even grip the paddle. Once I actually got paddling I warmed right up and even got a little hot. But the hardest part was the offshores. It was blowing really strong that day and also the swell was super inconsistent, making it hard to be in the right spot. I think I got cleaned up about three or four times before I even caught my first wave. (Top right) I didn’t make this late drop, then proceeded to get an ice cream headache whilst under water. But good times for sure.” –Jamie

BEN THOUARD (Above, middle) Laird Hamilton, Teahupoo.

JORDAN HETRICK (Above) “Archie Kalepa, the renowned Maui waterman who is never shy to tackle Hawaii’s biggest waves, takes a breather from heavy water to share the paddle love with his wife, Alicia, and their twin girls. As the famous saying goes, the family that sups together, stays together—the Kalepas are proving it.” –Jordan

TONY HARRINGTON “I’m sitting on a ski in close to zero temperatures. It’s windy, raining/sleeting/snowing, but how the hell could I complain when Jamie is out there CHARGING, taking 10-foot bombs on the head, dropping into rogue sets—to even have the balls to get himself to Alaska and take on these conditions in the first place! It was an amazing experience to be in such a hostile environment with a few people who didn’t care about comfort, just wanted to do something different and push the envelope. It’s what keeps us all alive; what breaking boundaries is all about, and what a person Jamie is for doing it on an ongoing basis!” –Harro

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RUSSELL ORD Courtenay Gray, Margaret River, Western Australia “I was pretty surprised how good the light was that morning. We both wanted to get out early to beat the usual dawn patrol crew and to do that we headed out in the darkness. It is a good 500-meter swim to the lineup if the current is not running, so when the sun eventually decided to rise above the ridge and create a few different colors I was hoping Courts may sneak a set off the early pack of surfers and hopefully snap a shot with him in the orange glow; easier said than done in such a very large impact zone.” –Russell

“This was a classic morning! Ordy is always chasing unique lighting in his shots, so he had organized me the night before to be in the carpark real early and be all set to paddle out in the dark. He wanted to capture the sunrise coming up and over the ridge, so we only had a small window in which to work. I don’t normally sup at this wave as it already has enough pressure on it from surfers, but the few times I have snagged it uncrowded it has been so much fun.” –Courts

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I did a lot of traveling this past year: surfing Jeffreys in South Africa, an Indo boat trip, cruising the atolls of the Maldives. Then I found myself walking around rainy, gray Hamburg, site of the first Jever Sup World Cup. I got there a few days early to practice and get acclimated a bit to the harbor waters of the River Elbe. Naish Hawaii air freighted me a 14-foot Glide raceboard to try out.

In front of our house in Fuerteventura, where I live in the Canary Islands, I had up to now been paddling only short wave

sups, so this mega-gun design was a big change. The sky cleared for all three days of the Jever Cup, welcoming competitors from Hawaii, Australia, Sri Lanka, California, France, England, the Canary Islands… and windsurf, kite and now sup hero Brian Talma brought “the action” from Barbados.

It was a big first for the sport: huge European audiences along the Elbe cheering every standup paddle stroke. And last but not least, I checked my 14-foot Glide board onto my flight back to Fuerteventura as a normal surfboard—only 25 Euros!

“Cheering Every Paddle Stroke”The Hamburg, Germany Jever Sup World Cup draws 27,000 spectators and 143 racers

Words by Sonja Hönscheid, Women’s Winner

(Opposite page) Hawaii’s Ekolu Kalama turning his kayak style, Starboard flatwater machine tight around the buoy. Ekolu won both the sprint and long distance races. Frenchmen Eric Terrien, who lives and trains in Fuerteventura, was right on his heels the whole time. There was no final party, but Ekolu compensated by playing incredible, stylish songs for a small group of the competitors in a music studio—a real highlight!

(Below) Surfing has reached the big city, thanks to sup. This is the long distance race where we girls had to compete alongside the men. Excited Hamburg residents were watching the closest thing many have seen to “real surfers,” cheering to us with every paddle stroke. Fortunately it was glassy on the 10km course. Ekolu won it in 54:51 minutes, and I was able to win the women’s class finishing in 63:04 minutes. Amateurs had the chance to qualify through preliminary rounds under the supervision of Robby Naish who, along with my father Jurgen Hönscheid and a few others, was among the world’s top windsurf competitors in the 1980s. Robby’s name is one everybody in Europe already knows, especially windsurfers and kiteboarders.

(Top) That’s me winning the 2,000-meter sprint race ahead of Australia’s Jasleigh Geary, my sister Janni and UK champion Claire Blackwell. Spectators were infected with sup fever and got the chance to try it out right away since Naish had a lot of its newest boards lined up to test.

(Above) We all got Jever beer showers at the awards ceremony! Right after this picture was snapped my sister Janni (second from right) fell backwards off the stage and right through the poster behind her, but luckily she wasn’t hurt.

Final Results: Men1 Ekolu Kalama/US2 Eric Terrien/France3 John Hibbard/Great Britain4 Alexandre Gregoire/France5 Paul Jackson/Australia6 Ernest Johnson/US7 Brian Szymanski/US8 Taka Kamaguchi/Japan9 Brian Talma/Barbados10 Rick Jensen/Germany

Thank you to all the competitors, the Act Agency, Naish and Jever for making this great event happen. Hope to see you there next year. –Sonja

Final Results: Women1 Sonja Hönscheid/Germany2 Jasleigh Geary/Australia3 Janni Hönscheid/Germany4 Claire Blacklock/Great Britain

HOCK ZWEI

74RICK IOSSI Catching a quick glimpse of singer Gloria Estefan’s house as they pass by, Sean Collins, Tyler Bixby and Jake Portwood breathe down the neck of Hobie Series leader Roray Kam during Liquid Surf & Sail’s Sunday Races on the Intercoastal Waterway, Ft. Lauderdale, Florida.

ANNA PERSSON Vicky Sanchez, rivermouth trippin’ in northern Brazil.

PETE HODGSON/A FRAME “Standup takes on a whole new perspective when you’re looking over a 10-foot Backdoor Pipeline ledge while staring down its 15-foot-high bigger brother looming outside.” –Pete

PATRICIA PEY Andoni Galdeano, Northern Africa “This is a secret spot I’ve been surfing for 25 years. Out of respect I demonstrate to the locals over there it is impossible to give more information about this place. Sorry!” –Andoni

BEN THOUARD King of Teahupoo “Raimana Van Bastolaer, the unofficial Mayor of Teahupoo, escapes from underneath The Bomb of The Day—so hollow!—and is rewarded by the beast’s baptismal spit. Raimana’s approach is to paddle outside and stand a bit further up the line than most guys, which makes for deeper slotting and, for the photographer, an amazing feel that you are part of the whole atmosphere of this heavy reef.” –Ben

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SWILLY (Below) Aussie Damon Eastaugh, Ziggy Reef “When you are on a Mentawais boat trip spending your whole time searching for waves, sometimes you happen upon another boat crew gorging themselves on a spot that appeals to your crew as well. If the better side of you takes hold and you decide not to spoil their party you go for the next best thing. This was kind of our thinking when we moved on and hit this open ocean left. It had a bit more wind on it and was a mix of long sections and shifting peaks—but it was all ours for the day.” –Damon

ALLEN MOZO (Bottom left) Noland Martin, Makaha “This is the last hit you can do after the backwash and before the sand. It’s a cool angle. Nobody in the world gets more backside vert than Noland, he’s a favorite! –Allen

TIM DITTY (Below middle) Chuck Patterson, Teahupoo “You risk everything until you are safely in the channel here. With a little patience the rewards are huge.” –Chuck

ANGELO CORDERO (Right page) Thomas Kosmoll, Tres Palmas “Thomas has a little video camera attached to his cap in this shot; always experimenting. Standup in Puerto Rico started about four years ago with Greg Carson and Thomas Kosmoll on custom 12-foot Ron House boards. They are big wave surfers and also pioneered tow surfing here in PR. The next step was paddlesurfing big waves. Sup is the fastest growing sport here; 75 contestants turning out for a local race called the Beach Boy Stand Up Paddle Race, now an annual April event. The SUP PR Federation has been organized by local Jimmy Lewis team rider Ernie Alvarez with the goal of running a series of contests.” –Angelo

JIM RUSSI (Bottom right) Landon McNamara, Rocky Point “In the 80s, Landon’s father, Liam McNamara, was the ruler of the roost here. Like father, like son… just a different twist.” –Jim

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SKIP BROWN (Below) “Luke Hopkins surfing the top section at Rocky Island while Mike Maithwin waits his turn in the eddy. Luke is riding a Stride prototype plastic board he’s involved in designing for surfing river waves. “Surfing standing river waves is a blast but can be an exhausting experience. I’ve had really nice five minute-plus rides but beyond that it gets hard to maintain focus and your legs get wobbly. Plus, after any wipeout and resulting swim down through the rapids you will truly be wiped out. It actually takes some practice getting back on your board and paddling out of the current before being washed down through the NEXT rapid.” –Skip

GREG REBAJEC (Left page and above) “I have been working on an environmental project up in the Pyrenées Mountains in which I developed a new standup vision... the guy on the board is the European paddleboard champ, Ludovic Dulou.” –Greg

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The Naish Maliko Race Words by Michi Schweiger, photography by Bob BangerterIt started out a few years ago as a laydown paddleboard race and still attracts top prone paddlers from all around the world who are now joined by a growing contingency of standup paddlers… some who come to try and win; most who want to be swept up in the thrill of a mass downwinder.

Middle panel: The traditional Hawaiian pule reminds us the ocean is a gift, and of nature in general, bringing participants together to also pray for a safe journey; with 200 riders on the start line timing and positioning is critical.Bottom panel: The 14-foot, no rudder class is gaining popularity; with so many women crossing over from canoe paddling the competiton has intensified just since last year’s Naish Maliko Race; Dave Kalama being signed in by Tehani; unlimited class race winner Scott Trudon; Mark Raaphorst of SIC, who finished 4th in the unlimited class, is not only a top competitor but also a top shaper of racing standup boards. For complete results: naishsurfing.com, or www.mauipaddleboard.com

Top panel: Perfect opportunity to wander the beach and check the latest designs; the racing fleet ranges from keikis to ancient mariners, with a variety of classes allowing you to compete on a fair level within your age and board design range.

RON DAHLQUIST

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RYAN SALM (Left page) The Big Island’s Odie Sumi, steady as he goes at the annual Tahoe Nalu race, California. “Its hard to concentrate on a race with scenery like this! Truth is I had my head down the whole time, I never even noticed this cabin until I saw this photo.” –Odie

KIRK DeVOLL (Top left) “Gerry Lopez—another killer central Oregon fall day on the upper Deschutes River. Gerry likes to mind his time on Indian Summer days like this while waiting for the next big swell to hit the coast.” –Kirk

LORI RAFFERTY (Above left) “Looking for more local paddling options, teenagers Reese Wathne, Ashley Fritzler and Curtis Wathne explore the upper reaches of the Santa Ynez River, behind Santa Barbara (one of the largest rivers on the central coast of California). Adding to their Tom Sawyer/Huck Finn-like adventure, the Santa Ynez has its share of wild trout, snakes, turtles and water birds.” –Lori

MOONWALKER (Above right) “Ekolu Kalama is a big man, so being able to fully lean into a drawn out bottom turn at Puerto Escondido is a must. This shot is a perfect example of the versatility and viability of sups in big waves... and being able to scrape a paddle along the face for a tad more artistic flair (and stability) is a blessing in waves of consequence.” –Neil

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ALLEN MOZO (Left page, middle) “This is Waikiki during Duane Desoto’s non-profit, Na Kama Kai’s one year anniversary. That’s Duane’s daughter in the middle.” –AllenEd Note: Duane’s mission is to empower youth by creating, conducting and supporting ocean-based programs: nakamakai.com

SWILLY (Left page, bottom) Billy Watson, Latitude Zero

SWILLY (Below) Billy Watson, East Oz “This wave is a mysto-reef off the east coast; its whereabouts is undisclosed. It’s a pretty fickle break and is about three miles off shore. It breaks when there are good low pressure systems off to the east but you don’t need a cyclone swell for it to break, you just need a clean swell with good intervals and light or no wind. There is no inside reef to get cleaned up over but it’s a couple of meters deep, so you can hit the bottom pretty hard and get rolled badly. Taking the drop is hard. You have to ramp into it early, and once you get to the bottom you have to set a good line—the wave sucks you up the face quickly and you can get pitched quite easily. It’s funny because we’ve been to this spot many times and when all the conditions are aligned but the reef doesn’t break, it makes no sense. It’s weird, but that’s also the beauty about this wave and when Jamie [Mitchell] and I get it like this it’s a pot of gold. We dont really have a name for it and probably want to keep it that way at this stage.” –Billy

JEFF WALTHALL (Left) “This was just a beautiful day at Makaha with a nice four foot swell coming in. Noland and his brother Brandon were out on their sup boards and they were both really pushing the limits by attacking the backwash. It’s always fun watching these guys go at it in the surf because they are very competitive; they really represent the caliber of what the Westside has to offer in sup.

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A Day at the BeachA photographic study by Terry ReisEverybody comes out to play at White Plains, on Oahu’s west side.

Identifications as possible include (clockwise from top left) Stuart, Jason, Leroy, Keola, Shena-Marie, Noel, Mizu, Justina, Tommy, Jason, Noah, Rachael, Sam.

88 89HANK FOTO (Top) The home stretch along China Walls You have about two miles to go from here. You want to hug this wall to stay out of the wind as best you can. Skylar and I learned this the hard way. We took the shortest route across the bay and it put us back 20 minutes.

(Above) The start of the standup division is the last time you’ll see fellow paddlers for many hours. Everyone quickly scatters across the channel.

(Right page top) Pre-race ceremony and prayer for a safe crossing.

ERIK AEDER (Middle left) Overall solo winners for paddleboard and sup, Jamie Mitchell and Ekolu Kalama, impressively finishing in 4:58:25 and 5:02:06. (Middle lower left) Jenny Kalmbach (right), from the Big Island, paddled to a women’s solo title in 5:48:31, ahead of Andrea Moller (middle) and Candice Appleby. Other impressive showings included Maui teenager Connor Baxter winning the solo under 29 year old class.HANK FOTO (Middle right) Alika Willis and Tony Moniz won the stock team division.(Above left) Spain’s Fernando Lebad and Molokai’s Ekolu Kalama arrive at the start together. (Above right) Unlimited class team racers Victor Lopez and Buzzy Kerbox talk weather conditions. I’ve known Victor since I was a baby; saw him that morning for the first time in 14 years!

RAINBOW SANDALS MOLOKAI to OAHU RACE Presented By Honolua Surf Co. Ekolu & Jenny win solo standup classes at biggest ever 13th Annual Words and Principle Images by Pat Huber Having only raced in California, I can definitely say the water in the channel is alive. To perform well in Molokai you have to have all the skills: endurance, surfing ability, knowledge and experience. With 25-35 knot tradewinds, a two-foot easterly windswell and a four-foot south ground swell, the Molokai Crossing was the easiest and hardest race.

The first 27 miles were basically a three-hour surf session, then the winds shift on the homestretch and you have to paddle into the most brutal head wind you could imagine. Having not taken as north of a line as I wanted I could only feel sorry for the others further south. This classic race is very magical, special… something I’m much honored to be a part of. Every part of the way—from the deserted former Molokai resort/now ghost town of Kalua Koi to the highly populated south shore of Oahu—was a special moment in its own. I didn’t want the race to end. For an additional photo gallery and complete results go to: rainbowsandals.com

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BEN THOUARD As photographers we freeze the feeling: Guillaume Bourligeux, Teahupoo “He is one of the most confident guys here. Guillaume knows the spot like his pocket. That’s how he scores bombs like this! The water is sucking off the reef pretty violently—not easy to get in. Through the final bowl Guillaume’s face is suddenly calm, as if he is looking into the mirror for his morning shave. Such style.” –Ben

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PIETER PLOOY (Above) Shakira Westdorp and Paul Jackson, Currumbin Alley, Gold Coast, Australia “This was a typical type of southeast swell, late afternoon in March, our late summer, with a slight offshore wind; Paul doing what he does well, carving off the top of the lip on his 9’3” whilst catching up to Shakira, one of the top local female sup riders and a past prone paddling champ at the Molokai Crossing. No one came out of the water ‘til it was dark.” –Pieter

TOR JOHNSON (Right page, top) A spinner dolphin’s surprise visit in the South Seas.

RICHARD HALLMAN (Right page middle and bottom) Tatiana Howard and her Butterfuly Effect friends spread the stoke of women of the wind and waves, Hood River; MAXIME HOUYVET Carine Camboulives, Mexico glide time; ERIC AEDER Ashley Baxter at home on Maui; HOUYVET Carine through the green of Thousand Peaks, Maui.

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PATRICE DEVERT (Above left and far right) Have a colorful day: Patrice Chanzy, Tahiti This smooth, stylish Tahitian sup surfer graced our “Summer 2009” cover shot by Devert. For some strange reason in that issue we mistakenly described Patrice’s occupation as “milkman,” which he took goodheartedly, replying, “I’m actually not a milkman, more a waterman… but I do drink milk and love milkshakes!” Chanzy is a lifeguard and teaches swimming to the kids in Tahiti. On his days off he’s in the ocean surfing, doing standup, bodysurfing or spearfishing. He is a member of both the Tahitian water patrol and is captain of the Taapuna water patrol. He is involved with running water safety for surf contests. Patrice’s trademark sign-off line to his emails is “Have a colorful day.”

SWILLY (Above middle) Aussie Courtenay Gray, The Mentawais.

GLENN DUBOCK (Below) “Peter Trow about to cross the tracks and jump onto the Central Cal Coast Express as it speeds through a cove off the beaten path known to locals as Residents’ Reef.” –Dubock

96 97BEN THOUARD Laird Hamilton: A Tahiti almost nobody rides “It was too west to sup Teahupoo this day so we went checking another spot that almost nobody rides. Some sketchy, gnarly waves were breaking. After kicking out of one of the several crazy ones this monster came through and was starting to close out on Laird. It is one thing to observe the masters carve across these waves, but a whole new level of respect emerges when you see how they handle the rest of the sup wave challenges. Laird paddled like a sprint racer towards the closing channel… and made it!” –Ben

“Surfing in Tahiti is much more than just surfing the wave at Teahupoo. Tahiti is full of reef-pass waves like this one—so many waves to surf! I’ve caught this wave before. It needs the right swell direction, and the wind needs to cooperate. This day, it came together.” –Laird

S

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I love shaping surfboards… I love creating a functional sculpture from a shapeless block of foam. Surfboard making (shaping, laminating, sanding, glossing, and polishing) is a noble

profession to me, just like any labor trade. And every surfboard tradesman that I know is an accomplished surfer. So after shaping surfboards for nearly a half-century, and having hand-shaped roughly 1,800 standup boards, Standup Journal asked me to share my “reflections as a surfboard shaper” with you…

49 YEARS OF SHAPING

Reflections on 49 YEARS OF SHAPINGAs applied to standup board designs

By Steve Boehne, Infinity Surfboards

BEN THOUARD (Above) Modern technology helps the hand crafter keep up with demand from guys like Infinity team rider Patrice Chanzy at Chopes, but (Right) Boehne prefers the feel of a pencil in the hand whenever possible. GLENN DUBOCK

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Making music… with a Skil planer I like to think of shaping surf and standup boards in much the same way as making music. Shaping by hand feels the same as playing a familiar song on a warm, mellow, old Martin guitar… I get a bit of pleasure knowing the guitar couldn’t have made music without me. I feel kind of like an old musician who has mastered his instrument, but can’t quite explain exactly what he does... When you listen you can hear the past, you can hear the depth, and you hear the notes bend and the bass line twist. I can only tell you that after running a Skil planer over foam for forty-nine years, the same things are going on with me as with that old musician. I’ve got thick calluses on my hands that fit around the contour of the depth adjuster on my old Skil, just like a guitar player has on his fingertips. As he stretches his strings and bends his notes, adds vibrato, and “grows” a song each time he plays it, I constantly apply combinations of pressures and twists to that old Skil planer to make the blades reach down into the foam. I’ve learned how to cut at precise angles and take microscopic “bands” off the rails to produce a dozen different rail contours for a dozen different styles of surfboards. I am not unique; any professional shaper with at least twenty years experience and ten thousand boards under his belt has mastered his tools.

Shaping Epiphanies I look back to how I shaped ten years ago, after only thirty-nine years of experience, and I think, “You fool, you thought you were so hot.” Now I know I can learn even more… I think that professional shapers experience what I have observed as ten-year epiphanies… With less than ten years experience, they are like teenagers—they think they know everything, but they haven’t a clue about what they don’t know. After another ten years, they look back at how much they have learned and they are now convinced that they are the best shapers in the world. One more decade—and now with the added needs of the standup paddler in mind—and they

TECHNOLOGY & TRADITION,

TOGETHER ON THE WATER.

541-382-5355 · www.kialoa.com

I PREFER KIALOA SUP PADDLES because they are

light, strong and have several designs which

all work well. But more than that, I like their

style. KIALOA isn’t some big corporate entity,

it is Dave and Meg Chun and their small, hard-

working staff. All real people who stand behind

their paddles and believe in what they make.

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paddle in the water.

– Gerry Lopez

GLENN DUBOCK Sup Templates “This EPS blank has lines drawn showing the template progression from straighter to curvier. Notice that the EPS boards really do come out of a block of foam.”

RON BRAZILE Steve and Barrie winning their third world tandem title, Malibu, 1995 “Steve and Barrie Boehne are the kind of people you meet in Baja that just hand you a beer and say ‘sit a while.’ Very humble. They are grandmasters of tandem surfing; in fact Steve is building a tandem sup board.” –Glenn Dubock

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finally see that shaping is a never-ending process of growth in understanding and technique.

Finding the right shaper for you There really isn’t a best shaper or best model… It’s more a process of discovering which style of shaping matches the feeling that you like your board to have while you are paddlesurfing. For me, I like a board to feel fast. On a wave it has to be able to back door into a section and blast through with speed. It also has to have a sweet spot where I can stand and it will follow my lead and turn almost faster than I can think. You may have learned that you prefer a particular shaper’s boards to others, just as you prefer a certain style of music. This is because each shaper has a certain feel that he likes his board to have as it travels through the water. Over the years, he will grow in his understanding of what to do in his shaping to deliver that feel time after time.With standup boards: First revolution, now evolution When standup paddling came along, the early sup shapers didn’t have the experience riding these boards to know just what was needed.

The learning curve has been quick. In just four years, we have progressed from narrow 25” wide and 12’ long boards that were stiff and tippy to much shorter high-performance boards that—even though they have a great deal of volume —can maneuver as well as a modern long board. This quick progress has been achieved only because many very talented surfer-shapers rode their standup board creations, felt where improvements were needed, and returned to the shaping room to make the changes. I would

say that nearly monthly, through surfing and paddling, we become aware of adjustments that can be made to a rocker, outline, or rail contour that will make next month’s boards just a little better than last month’s boards. From years of shaping large tandem boards, it was an easy transition for me to make sup shapes… But for a year I tended to shape

thicker standup boards than necessary. I still don’t like to stand on a sinky, tippy board. My boards tend to be quick, easy paddlers. One way that I do this is to—unlike a typical surfboard—proportion more of the thickness of the board behind center. Specifically, I thin out the nose to reduce swing weight and add extra volume in the back quarter. This also helps match the place where you stand while paddling to the place

“I tended to shape thicker standup boards than necessary” –Boehne on early days with sup and his present day caution about making boards too tippy

COURTESY INFINITY Steve’s Son, Dan Boehne, Tahiti “Dan is riding one of the early Competitor models—since then I have pulled in the noses and thinned out the high performance boards.” –Steve

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you stand after you catch the wave so that you don’t have to jump back as you drop in. In addition, the tail doesn’t sink out from under you when you do your “wheelie” turn to spin and catch a wave.

“Fooling” the water: a sup shape with good, standable flotation but less overall rocker than the same length longboard At first, I was using normal surfboard rocker (the board’s bottom curve) on my standup shapes. These boards were loose and turny, but as I got better at sup surfing and started riding larger, faster waves I found that the additional width and volume of the big boards felt slow compared to a surfboard. If you come from a surfing background, you’ll know how much faster a short board surfboard is compared to a long board. The same thing applies to a wider, thicker sup as compared to a long board. Over time, standup board shapers have decreased the overall rocker on our shapes in order to increase the speed. The idea is to “fool the water” into reacting to your board as though it is shorter, thinner and narrower. I do this by shaping the center part of the board with a much flatter speed area. When you stand forward on this “speed spot” to trim across a steep wave section, the board accelerates as if it were a regular board. When you step back onto the tail, the turning zone, the water feels the rocker of a shorter, turny board. This combination produces an sup shape with good, standable flotation but quite a bit less overall rocker than the same length longboard. The other factor that makes shaping sups different than surfboards is the power that a paddle adds to your turn… Generally, there is a trade off between speed and “loose turnability”—you either get one or the other. Using a paddle to assist your turn doubles the quickness of the turn. That means that an sup can be shaped quite a bit more on the side of speed versus the side of slower, but easier to turn. These hybrid speed rockers in conjunction with paddle assisted turns produce an explosive, fun, high performance sup board. Shapers have slowly incorporated curvier outlines to give the high performance standup shapes an almost

VINCENT DEVERT Chanzy skirts a section by moving forward to the “trim” spot on his Boehne-designed 8’8” wing, swallow tail.

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On the one hand, it’s likely that—in a generation—the hand-shaping surfboard skills that I’ve spent my career honing may be lost forever. This is because today you don’t even have to know how to shape to copy a hand shape onto a computer. These days computer software lets you create the shape on a screen, press a button and presto: ten minutes later, your blank is shaped. Where is the joy and artistry? Does the designer even surf? I can assure you, many don’t! On the other hand, when I think about it, how hard can one person work? What do you do when more guys want your shapes than you can possibly shape by hand?

For years, I rebelled against shaping machines. The standup paddling explosion has finally convinced me that I need help. I recently bought an AKU 3000 shaping machine. It has has been a monumental physical task for me to shape 1,800 sup boards over the past four years. This year, I have meticulously copied every detail of many of my shapes onto the computer. Again, I look at it much like a musician might look at his favorite piece… He might not be able to play live at every venue, but he can make a recording of his best work so that more people can enjoy his creation. The computer also allows me the time to return to some conventional surfboard shaping and to do many special, custom standup boards that keep the creative juices flowing. I can still incorporate the same water-to-shaping rack evolutionary process because our AKU 3000 is just down the hall from my shaping racks. When I want a small change in the design, I just call up the shape on the screen and redraw the lines. The machine does offer one more advantage: the shape remains constant until I make a slight change. I don’t have to remember a myriad of contours while simultaneously changing a few of them. I

“Using a paddle doubles the quickness of the turns”–Boehne on why sup design should follow shortboard shapes more than the slower longboard outlines

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short board look. This is because we have discovered that the average sup surfer needs from 28” to 30” width in the center to avoid struggling constantly to maintain his balance. The problem is that if you use a typical longboard surf template, you would end up with a 21” wide tail—that is just too wide. The curvier outline allows a narrower tail. Personally, I don’t like a tail more than 17” wide on my sup. I find that

a board with a tail wider than that requires me to move my foot from center over onto the rail in order to do a powerful turn. Then I have to move it back across to the other rail for the cut back. This pretty much screws up the pace of your surfing. True, a wider tail does catch waves easier, but I love a nice powerful 16 ½” tail on my sup board.Looking to the future… I have mixed emotions about the future of shaping…

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can always start at baseline and then bend a curve here and there on the screen before cutting the new version. When developing a new outline, I still prefer to draw pencil lines on foam to see the flow full size rather than creating a shape on a computer screen. After I have it just right, I measure by centimeters the exact same curve into the computer. After a shape is proven on the water, I can duplicate it exactly time after time or modify the size at the time of cutting for an individual surfer. I find that when I sand a blank that I have designed but that was cut on the computer, I don’t mind because I know the roots of its beginning and I feel like a part of this board’s origins. At the end of a day I can finish eight boards cut by the machine instead of four boards shaped completely by hand. This sure helps when the order sheets are piling up and customers are calling, wanting their new boards. At the end of a long hard day I can look at the rack of new boards that I helped create and feel proud... You see the customer’s name on the order sheet and you know he’s gonna love his new board! After all these years, that’s still what it comes down to for me… –Steve Boehne, October 2009 S

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GLENN DUBOCK Steve measures tail rocker: “the most overlooked aspect of standup board performance.”

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What’s the worst that could happen? I’ve always asked myself this question over the years. Is there anything worse than being pinned to the ocean’s floor? How did I get here? Last thing I remember, I was

riding a head high wave headed for the bowl on my new standup board. Now I am six feet underwater, plastered on the bottom of the rock reef. My right leg is awkwardly pulled upward by my leash which is still attached to that new board. My paddle is hitting me repeatedly between the legs. Not good. Weird things happen fast on a sup. The details of a good wipe-out stick around longer than the Band-aids that follow them. One summer, my Dad added a seat to a Flexi Flyer. This sit-on-top go-cart he made for my older brother and me to share. Kevin had just finished third grade. In a very rare moment of brotherly love, he let me name it. My dad painted Fireball 88 right down the middle of it, in red, which looked really bitchin’ when the cart was in motion. Because we lived at the top of a steep hill, the cart was in motion all summer. Needless to say, our pimped-out go-cart was the envy of every kid in the berg. Fireball 88 gave us instant street cred, as much as two 8 and 9 year old suburban kids could have back in the mid-sixties. Uphill lived Billy Hindbuck, a kid who always smelled like leftover spaghetti and could fart on command. His only other claim to fame was that he had been to the Grand Canyon. When I told Billy that I did not believe him, he showed me proof. A dead rattlesnake skin which he let me hold for a second, before it went right back into the shoebox he pulled it from. Next to sea monkeys, moon rocks and X-ray vision glasses, that snakeskin was really something. I wanted it bad, real bad. Before the end of summer that snakeskin was mine, traded for rides on Fireball 88. Yeah, the rides were that good. Even Lance Hendrickson, a guy so much older than us that he had a fuzzy mustache and wore motorcycle boots, was envious as we shot up his perfectly banked

driveway to slow down. Lance was rumored to be in line for his older brother’s chopper. We think he made that up. His brother was in juvie and we never did see a motorcycle, much less a chopper, in the Hendrickson’s garage. By the end of that summer, I had my routine down. Drag Fireball 88 past the Hindbuck’s two-story house where the street flattened out some. Aimed downhill, I’d give the cart a nudge to start rolling. Terminal velocity was achieved somewhere near JoEllen Summer’s house, the place with the perfect roses that my mother loved. Take an arcing bank up Lance Hendrickson’s driveway, then throw it into a brodie for a clean stop in my own dust cloud. What is the worst that could happen? The late summer day started out like most of the others. Kevin and I trading turns on Fireball 88, envious kids standing around contemplating what they might have left to offer us in exchange for a ride. Mom was calling us in for dinner, and this last ride had to be quick. I was rolling along fine, picking up speed, when Lance’s house went by in a blur. Missing my exit, I kept flying down the hill. By the time I got to the McCambridge’s duplex, the street got really steep. Now officially out of control, I pulled back on the stick that was supposed to act like a brake. As it broke off in my hand, I went into a high speed death spin. I lay back just in time to wedge myself, still on Fireball 88, under a parked white Rambler. Luckily I was skinny enough to fit underneath the car. I didn’t hit anything with my head, but my belly skin bore the brunt of the impact. I was bleeding from navel to nipple. As I squeezed myself out from under Cory Vail’s mom’s Rambler wagon, my all white Disneyland t-shirt turned a bright red. Hearing the crash, Cory opened his front door, pointed at me and laughed like it was the funniest thing that he ever saw. He didn’t try to help his fallen comrade. Still bothers me to this day.

MAN DOWN! by Steve West

S

Bleeding, I trudged all the way back up to my house, where my mom, with dinner getting cold on the table, did what she could to wash the dirt and Rambler grease off my scraped and bloody belly. Out came the blue bottle of iodine, which she applied to my stinging skin, painting it bright orange with her little glass wand. Over dinner she and my dad tried to remember when I got my last tetanus shot, while my brother imitated how my face would look with lock jaw. I remembered that that shot was recent enough. On the last day of school I had started a celebratory dirt clod fight. John Gleason used a rock instead of the agreed upon dirt clod and beaned me pretty good above my eye. Eight stitches and one tetanus shot later, my mother reminded me how lucky I was to still have two eyes shedding those tears. Of course, it was time again for the story of my first grade friend Clifton Spear and how he came to have a glass eye. One should never throw rocks, run with scissors, shoot arrows into the sky or change a flat bicycle tire with a screwdriver. Mom says. Forty five years later Fireball 88 is gone, but I do have a shiny new sup board. When I arrived at the beach today the waves were overhead and doubling up with a nasty close-out every now and then. Should I have gone home and waited for the tide to fill in? Hard to say, but hey, what’s the worst that could happen? –s.west

HANK FOTO With Garrett McNamara wipeouts are always an adventure.

Now officially out of control, I pulled back on the stick... it broke off in my hand

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Erik Aeder loves shooting the Molokai to Oahu crossing where “jumping into the open ocean to shoot the paddlers

racing by is like jumping off the edge of the world and falling into a floating blue eternity.” See for yourself! His new website is up at erikaeder.com… Brian Bielmann was born on the US East Coast; bailed to Hawaii after high school, 1975, and has since lived on the North Shore with “three kids, a wife and five chickens. We like going to church on Sundays (it helps when you have a great pastor who surfs). I really love my life—really!” More at brianbielmann.com… Jean-Valère

Bordenave is a traveling waterman/story teller from Corsica. He was the first to paddlesurf G-Land in 2008 and has a saga in the works for us…

Manu Bouvet & Carine Camoulives were surfing in Mexico during the ‘08 swine flu outbreak, which Manu felt got to “a stage of out of control brainwash! We couldn’t help but think of the thousands of people who die each day from malaria or aids and it is not in the news.”… Jock Bradley is a

commercial and editorial photographer based in Hood River, Oregon. Jock has over 20 years of experience as

a photographer and for the past 10 years has focused mainly on adventure watersports: jockbradley.com… Fred & Aurelie Branger are a top French tandem

surfing couple who are now focused on sup. But they also like riding what Fred calls “big wooden boards that are like ancient finless toothpicks (12- to 16-feet long). As we went to press the couple was prepping for a Japanese sup trip…

Skip Brown is a longtime freelance photographer living near the Potomac in Maryland. His three kids are “slowing me down a bit these

days but I still find time to be halfway decent at kiteboarding, hanggliding and whitewater sup.” More about our bud, Skip, at skipbrown.com… Angelo Cordero is a proud Cuban who arrived in Miami in 1991 after a five-day innertube odyssey. He quickly established himself as a charismatic fashion photographer. Surfing caught his eye during a Hawaiian Tropic photo shoot in Hawaii. He’s been pointing his lens at the waves ever since from his Rincon, Puerto Rico home: angelocordero.com…

Sean Davey is originally from Tasmania; now a 10-year North Shore resident on top of the surf scene. Sean’s approach to shooting

has always been “slightly different than most.” Check: seandavey.com… Vincent Devert popped onto the scene, catching our eyes immediately. We ran some of his brilliant, sharp, ‘in your face’ water shots the very next issue. But Devert did not stop at that, he kept developing and working with some of the hottest talent on the Tahitian waters to produce our Summer ’09 cover. He works hard at perfecting his art: vincentdevert.com…

Dana Edmunds “started shooting waves from the Manhattan Beach pier when I was about 12 years old. Those first experiences led to an incredible career that keeps me stoked every day.” He lived on

Maui for most of the 70s and was fortunate to shoot Honolua, Maalaea and “even some secret spots (and kept them secret)” as a regular contributor to surf mags; traveling to Bali with Gerry Lopez when Kuta was mostly dirt roads and Uluwatu was still very much off of the beaten path. Dana enjoys a successful career in commercial photography but when the surf is firing, “I still get that pang inside that requires me to grab my camera and head to the beach.” More at: danafoto.com… Tom English is a family man, sup surfhound and financial advisor; does creative videography and photography and is an all around nice guy who only missed a few days on the water after taking a camera housing to his head at Malibu last summer: alohawealth.com…

Margareta Engstrom continues her journey doing marketing for Starboard. She has been busy the last few months organizing photo shoots in Peru, Venice, Paris, and London. Putting a lot

of emphasis on the flatwater scene as well as the waves, she is trying to show that sup is for everyone, anywhere in the world… Hank Foto is one of the surf industry’s leading imagemakers, and one of the few whose work is seen in galleries. Based on the North Shore since the late 80s, Hank is on top of

the sup action there: hankfotossurfshots.com … Dan Fiske is a top chef and a “hobby photographer” working double time this last year, with his booming Privatemauichchef.com business! Flip side is that “I can afford to travel more, and buy better equipment to capture what I see.”… Dan Gavere splits his time between the North Shore, the Columbia Gorge and his Werner Paddles van on the road selling paddles to the people. Dan is known in the whitewater kayaking circles as the first truly professional kayaking athlete, but has now turned his passion from sit-down to standup paddling, averaging nearly 100 miles a week either surfing or sup adventure paddling…

Jordan Hetrick sees the ocean from all angles. As a water photographer and writer, road tripping with wife and baby in-tow, Jordan loves

riding waves and photographing them. Whether it’s in the tropics of Maui or the Encinitas, CA coastline where he grew up, his craving for moving walls of water remains a constant: hetrickphoto.com…

Brandon Hicks is no slacker when it comes to surfing and sup’ing photography. The North Shore of Oahu is the place he calls home and that’s where he’s known for putting in 8-12 hours a day at the beach, shooting

to capture that magic moment in the water: photobrando.com… Josh Jedry specializes in anything saltwater. He’s spent recent years on the New Jersey shore

depicting the sports and lifestyles surrounding the ocean. His passion for the sea is visible through the photos he takes… Buzzy Kerbox has been “spending lots of time on Maui with my family; also surfing, sup’in waves and in races. I have been shooting photos every chance I get.” Buzzy also does keynote and motivational speaking; check his latest shots: kerbox.com… Joe McBride has been with us from the start, firing off gems of his fellow So. Cal ripper buds Chuck Patterson and the Saeman brothers, while globe trotting to sustain his thriving commercial photography business. Along the way he’s finding time to do his own sup’ing (and wiping out! Check the stitches from a sup board to the face last Baja trip); more of Joe’s images at: joemcbride.com…

Tim McKenna has been shooting a lot of surfing, super yachts and surf wear catalogues around his home in

French Polynesia. He has just launched an all new portfolio site: timmckennaphotography.com … Jon ‘Shaggy’ McLaughlin grew up in New Hampshire with a great passion for the outdoors and a sense of adventure “that’s led to a strong personal connection to the Earth.” After receiving his BA in outdoor education from Northland College (in WI) Shaggy launched into several years of raft and dog-sled guiding, teaching whitewater kayaking and five years as an instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School. Along the way he picked up a camera and strives to capture the best images of the moment

… Allen Mozo is the son of a navy man, grew up at Pearl Harbor and later traveled around the world surfing as a

military brat. He was the oldest of 4 brothers, including the late famed surf photog Jon Mozo. Since finishing school he has logged 21 consecutive North Shore seasons as a local surfer. He works as a still photographer and union motion picture technician in Hawaii and abroad: mozophoto.com…

Jeoffrey Nathan and wife Catherine own Coastal Urge Surf Shop in Wilmington, NC. They put on three races a

year, organize a non-profit “SUP Cleanup,” and a bi-weekly sup race club to keep the boards out of the garage and on the water: coastalurge.com… Dave Ogle was raised in Newport Beach, CA. His waterman dad got him started early on: “I had my first boat when I was just six years old and I’ve enthusiastically surfed, fished, dove and loved the ocean since then.” Dave has a master’s in educational psychology, a bachelor’s in developmental psychology and is fluent in Spanish. Through his photography he enjoys “empowering people who may not have the opportunity to witness, experience, and preserve the many wonders of Mother Nature… Rhett Patterson lives in Hollywood where he’s a full-on surfer, skateboarder, photographer and actor. He draws upon his surfing lifestyle in creating images that allow the viewer to identify with his passion, capturing the dreams by way of shooting spectacular days at famous US and Mexican surf spots:

pacificsedge.blogspot.com… Rob “Piros” Pirie is based down under; current project is filming a sup movie in the Pacific islands. When not behind the lens Rob’s on his sup board charging anything Mother Nature can throw at him: vonpiros.com…

PEOPLE WHO MAKE THE JOURNAL

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Wes Pracht got his photographic start via mountain biking, where he fell in love with steep inclines. He now enjoys snowboarding and climbing, but when he’s home in Orange County

he visits the beach to shoot friends surfing: mtbphoto.com… Terry Reis of Kahiwa Kiwi Media Productions has combined his five short years of photo and video media work with over 30 years of information technology experience to produce the #1 ranked website by the top 10 internet search engines; keyword search: “Surf Photography Hawaii” or “HD Surf Video.” More at: surfshooterhawaii.com…

Jim Russi has traveled the world serving as senior staff photographer for all major US surf mags and has produced

images for Quiksilver’s Roxy ad campaign for a decade. He lives on the North Shore with his wife and their two children: jimrussi.com… Kenny Smith is a photographer based out of Currumbin, Australia. Loves life, the ocean, family and friends: kennysmith photography.com… Matt Solomon is a

Florida transplant to Colorado. Since discovering sup in 2006 Matt “has all but hung up his kayaks, spending most of his water time sup paddling on the Rockies and around the

US.” Matt also works as a paramedic in Eagle, CO, and runs AlpineArms.com… Paul Villecourt is a top French photojournalist who’s been shooting paddling

and outdoor sports for more than 15 years. Paul fell in love with sup during a trip to California: villecourt.com Greg Von Doersten landed our cover shot this issue (not an easy pick; we had 25 finalist images in our cover folder). Although based in the Tetons of Wyoming, Greg continues to use his skills as a class 5 river guide and kayaker to pursue standup and surfing. He enjoys exploring remote areas and cultures of the world: gregvondoersten.com...

Jeff Walthall runs Mana Photo on Oahu. He’s been a professional surf photographer for just over ten years now:

manaphoto.deviantart.com… Sophie Wattrelot learned early on that “after my student life in Paris I could not work ‘ashore,’ locked in an office. Instead I would spend my life on the water, living on a boat, exploring the world and combining my passion for watersports.” Here love of the sea exudes at sauvageocean.com… Leon Werdinger

is a freelance photographer and wilderness guide who’s images have appeared in Sierra, Backpacker, Canoe & Kayak, National Geographic Adventurer and many other

magazines, books and catalogs. As a long time river runner “it was quite a novelty to see someone running a river standing up.” Check his work at ottertrack.com… Steve West is our “Lifestyle Columnist.” His stories are always based on the truth unless he flat out makes them up. The Santa Cruz, CA local has been into “stand-up” since he was eleven months old. Writing since age five, his hard hitting yet insightful report on Mission San Juan Capistrano earned him a lick ‘em and stick ‘em gold star in the fourth grade. Steve’s full-rail bottom turn and quick wit keep him upright. SS

Sup World Tour FULL-PAGE

COMING

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A note from your non-associate publisher

Ever since we started this publishing adventure nearly three years ago, Clay has been desperately trying to label me “associate publisher” along with our other actual associate publisher Steve Sjuggerud.

Don’t get me wrong, I have nothing against the written word. I too race straight to Gerry Lopez’ latest saga, or the page with Steve West’s hilarious columns that describe what most of us are going through as we take one for the team in our rookie season of sup’in. But sprinkled in between all those words of wisdom are the polished gems we call photographs. Some need labels, others shine without any adornment. Some will need the gentle crafting of Kerry Struble, our superb graphic designer. This issue’s 185 final images were taken by 73 photographers Each image that made it this issue was whittled down from 5,800 shots we started with in our “quarter finalists” folder. The hard part is leaving so many diamonds in the dust when we inevitably run out of pages with which to display the art. That’s where I come in, where I lay claim to one issue a year: The Photo Annual. This edition is dedicated to the people that

work so hard to show the unending stoke that standup paddling exudes around this watery planet we float on. Words cannot adequately describe it all… photos come darn close. We at Standup Journal are guided by the drive to capture and display a world you can relate to… and maybe daydream about. We hope you see something that inspires you in this issue’s special pages—something that makes you want to grab your gear and hit the water. In simple words, this is your magazine. Remember that. We do! Glenn Dubock Photo Consultant (aka “associate publisher”)

Early in life we live on dreams of things to come. Later in life we are sustained by memories… and by dreams. In both cases our richest impressions are based mostly on the images we bring along with us. Standup Journal dedicates this issue to the photographers who made these pages possible… and to those who are about to send the next winners our way. Thank you, Clay Feeter, Publisher

PS: Special thanks goes to our buddy, Massachusetts paddler Bob Babcock, who goes by the handle “Stoneaxe” on the lively StandupZone.com forum. Bob’s the one who gave us the idea to run “Pictures worth reading” on our cover. See ya on the water, or on the Zone, Axe!

P U B L I S H E R ’ S N O T E

CLAY VALVERDE Cover photo finalist: Leleo Kinimaka stretching and floating across Publics, Waikiki “To shoot Publics you have to put yourself in a small channel between breaking waves, surfers and a shallow inside reef with coral heads popping up everywhere—a nightmare if the cleanup set comes and you are dragged inside. But this day it looked fun and not too crowded for an early session, so we gave it a go. Leleo’s great to shoot with because he’s such a talented and versatile surfer, he’s always got some big move up his sleeve.” –Clay V.

Mickey Eskimo riding Venice’s Canal Grande.

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