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SLOW FOOD NETWORK IN MACEDONIA

A NEW ALLIANCE FOR BIODIVERSITY

Skopje, 2010

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Introduction ……………….……………….……………….……………….……………….…………………. 3

Why Sharplaninska ……………………………………………………………………………………………. 4

Our locations …………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 5 Past Projects ……………….……………….……………….……………….……………….………………. 6 Present Project ……………….……………….……………….……………….……………….…………… 7 Food Communities and Slow Food Presidia in Macedonia ……………….……………….……………….……………….………… 8

Presidium Slatko from Wild Figs ……………………………………………………………………….. 9 Food Community Producers of Honey of Chestnuts from Porechie Region (Municipality of Makedonski Brod) ……………….……………….…………………… 10 Food Community Mavrovo National Park Mountain Pasture cheeses (Kashkaval, Belo Sirenje, Kiselo Mleko, Urda) ……………….……………….…………………. 12 Food Community Mushrooms Growers of Negotino ……………….……………….……………….……………….…………………… 14

Food Community Kcana Sol (Smashed salt) ………………………………………………………. 15 Nominations and Proposals ……………….……………….……………….……………….………… 15

Vision, Mission and Priorities of Slow Food in Macedonia ………………………………… 16

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Introduction

The Slow Food Convivium Sharplaninska was born from the will of some enthusiasts of sustainable

rural development, food and wine lovers and enthusiasts of the natural beauties of Macedonia to

create something new in a field, the agricultural quality food production, which is only now starting

to make the first steps in Macedonia.

If the entry of Macedonia into the EU is certainly a priority of the institutions and the Macedonian people, the need to comply with the many rules and production standards required by European

institutions is likely to eliminate many agro-food productions on a small scale, based on the skill of the producers and methods dating back to ancient times, as happened in many other countries. Macedonia is well in front of a grade challenge: to defend and promote its own culinary identity, while respecting the standards and European legislation necessary to continue on the path of integration. On the initiative of Tefik Tefikovski, restaurateur of the

Radika Valley, Filippo Unterhofer, an expert on international cooperation in the Balkans for the past 7 years and Nada Karaivanova, a young expert in sustainable development, on 3 May 2009 representatives of the Cheese Food Community 'of Mavrovo-Rostushe and some students of the Faculty of Agronomy in Skopje have met at the restaurant of Tefik Tutto at the village of Jance. That day, from this strange alliance, the Slow Food Convivium Sharplaninska was created, and successively registered as Foundation in June 2009. The convivium is formed by a network of people who wish to share their passion for food that is "Good, clean and fair", according to the three principles enunciated by the founder of Slow Food, Carlo Petrini. Hence the idea to accompany the discovery of flavors and colors of the Macedonian cuisine with research and study of traditional knowledge and methods that often are hidden behind the dishes that tastes We propose an alternative way, very tasty, to participate in the rediscovery, protection and promotion of identity of the peoples who inhabit this land, which has always been a meeting point between East and West. Macedonia, called the cradle of civilization, and then becomes a cradle of flavors to be discovered.

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To this end, the Convivium Sharplaninska seeks: - Disseminating the principles of Slow Food in Macedonia, increasing the network of those who are fighting for a sustainable agriculture and quality food production, to defend the territory and the communities that inhabit it; - Promote awareness of the best local food products and traditional production methods jeopardized by competition in production of agro-food industry, promoting consumption at the same places where these products originate; - Promote education to taste through the organization of meetings and convivial tasting focusing on the food and the communities from which they are generated - Participate in local events, national and international Fairs to promote the Macedonian culinary heritage according to the principles of Slow Food - Strengthen cooperation and coordination between Macedonian and international actors active in the defense and promotion of biodiversity and agro-biodiversity in Macedonia; - Actively participate in creating a network of Convivia and Presidia of Slow Food in the Balkans, promoting the culinary traditions of the region while respecting local and national diversity; - Create a network of young people who may be the future of a food that respects the nature and humanity. SINCE 2009 THE SLOW FOOD CONVIVIUM SHARPLANINSKA IS REGISTERED AS FOUNDATION, ACCORDING TO THE MACEDONIAN LAW ON FOUNDATIONS AND CITIZENS’ ORGANIZATIONS. THEREFORE THE FOUNDATION SLOW FOOD CONIVIVUM SHARPLANINSKA – MAVROVO-ROSTUSHE IS NOT A BRANCH OFFICE OF SLOW FOOD, BUT IT’S AN INDIPENDENT ORGANIZATION, WHICH IS AUTHORIZED TO USE THE SLOW FOOD LOGO IN MACEDONIA. WHY SHARPLANINSKA - ORIGIN OF NAME AND LOGO OF CONVIVIUM The Sharplaninska is a sub-race of sheep belonging to the race pramenka, widespread throughout the Balkans, and that was well adapted to difficult conditions of the Shar Massif, a mountainous formation that from the city of Tetovo extends to the municipality of Mavrovo-Rostushe and that marks the border between Macedonia, Kosovo and Albania. To increase the production of milk, meat and wool, the Sharplaninska was heavily crossed with the Merino from the 70's, leading to the complete disappearance of the original race, or at least thinks so ... Some enthusiastic believes that the real Sharplaninska still survive in some of Shar villages. The search for this (mythical) sheep becomes a metaphor for the search of healthy food, tied

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to tradition, not bound to the obsession of quantity. The logo is a tentative to symbolize the collaboration between the idea of quality agriculture and livestock in Macedonia, represented by the profile of Sharplaninska and the principles of Slow Food, represented by the stylized snail.

Our locations

Our official office is nestled between the river Radika, and the peak of Kline in the town of Mavrovo-Rostushe. The village of Jance hides some of the most beautiful examples of traditional architecture of the whole of Macedonia. Walking the narrow streets of the village you can admire the houses were built using only stone, wood and earth, and despite this still firmly anchored to the steep walls of the valley, heedless of the past. The tenacity of the old houses to survive in adverse weather and severe temperatures of the place, well reflect the character of their inhabitants, as well as the one of Tefik Tefikovski, the owner of the Restaurant Tutto, where the second office of the Slow Food Convivium Sharplaninska is hosted. After twenty years of living abroad, Mr. Tefikovski is back in his native land to promote the natural beauty and the authentic flavors of his valley. There was not better place to give birth to a Convivium of Slow Food in Macedonia. The restaurant offers a wide range of dishes according to the local culinary traditions of this mountain region. Recently we have opened an operative office within the “Faculty for Agricultural Sciences and food” in Skopje on the second floor. Official Office: Restaurant Tutto Village of Jance, Mavrovo-Rostushe Phone/fax: +389 (0)42 470 999 Email: info@tutto.com.mk

Contact person: Tefik Tefikoski Operative office: Faculty of Agricultural Sciences and Food – UKIM Skopje Bul. Aleksandar Makedonski b.b. Office number 169 Tel.: +389 (0)2 3115277 – lok 121 Fax: +389 (0)2 3134310 Mobile: 078/283868 Email: f.unterhofer@slowfood-sharplaninska.org.mk

Contact person: Filippo Unterhofer

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Past Projects

Country/ Duration

Short description of the project

Macedonia (2010 - in pipeline)

“Project Tasting Macedonia” The project aims at promoting the culture, value and traditions related to the Macedonian traditional products in the world through the Slow Food Network

Macedonia (National Park Mavrovo) May 2009 – Ongoing

“Assessment on the Traditional Mountain Pastures Cheeses from National Park Mavrovo” The assessment to analyze the methods of production of the traditional cheeses from Bistra, Korab and Deshat mountains has been realized by the Slow Food Convivium Sharplaninska. A field visit has been realized by a food expert of the Convivium and a responsible

Macedonia (Dojran, Bogdanci, Gevgelija, Valandovo) September 2009 – ongoing

Identification of the first Slow Food Presidium in Macedonia – Protecting the slatko (jam) of wild figs from South-Eastern Macedonia The activities, including a mission of two international experts from Italy and Bosnia, aim at establishing the first Presidium of Slow Food in Macedonia, ensuring the protection of this traditional product, its value and culture from the South-eastern Region of Macedonia

Slow Food in the Canteen The Tourism and Catering School, in partnership with the Slow Food Convivium Sharplaninska, participates to the European Slow Food project, with the aim of promoting the traditional products and receipts from Macedonia, improving at the same time the quality of food used in the school canteen

BiH – October 2009

Participation to the Manifestation Slow Food in Ustikolina (BiH)

Italy October 2008

Participation to Terra Madre 2008

Bulgaria 15-18 July

Participation to Terra Madre Balcans 2010

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Present Projects REGIONS TO TASTE - Protection, valorization and promotion of high quality traditional agriculture in the Polog and South-Eastern Regions” The current project aims at improving the capacities of the Regional Development Centers of two pilot regions, Polog Region and South Eastern Region, in protecting and valorizing the local and traditional products, thus promoting their territories and developing gastronomic tourism as an alternative (or complementary) form of tourism. In particular the project will support the collection of data regarding 8 pilot artisan agriculture products and autochthonous breeds, which are under the risk of disappearing and improving the collaboration and coordination between different stakeholders (regional development centers, municipalities, associations of producers, universities and cultural centers, the Slow Food network, national institutions). In order to achieve the overall objective the project will deliver a complete mapping of producers and related stakeholders in the territory of the two regions through an extensive field work. A database of the local and traditional products and autochthonous breeds in the pilot regions will be then managed by the Regional Development Centers, which will also update the database on the basis of the information, which will be delivered to the Regional Centers directly or through the Municipalities and the associations of producers. For the most interesting products identified, a special procedure for including them in the worldwide Slow Food Network will be initiated. In the mapping activities a special focus will be reserved to the identification of restaurants, hotels, shops, events on the territories, which offer the possibility to taste and purchase the identified products, as well as cultural and natural heritage placed in the areas of production. A series of events organized at regional level and the participation to the International fair of local and traditional products “Terra Madre/Il Salone del Gusto” 2010, organized by Slow Food International, will provide the concrete possibility to promote the regions and their products at national, regional and international level. At regional level, in occasion of the Terra Madre Day, two events will be organized in Mavrovo and Dojran, presenting local productions to local population and national and international tourists. The activities of promotion will be supported by the elaboration of different kinds of promotional materials and tools, as the first two Macedonian regional gastronomic guides, and the creation of two regional brands for local and traditional products, which will be used by producers, restaurants and shops offering those products. The collaboration between the Regional Development Centers from the two pilot-regions and the Slow food Network will allow at the same time to promote the regions through the Slow Food brand and to strength the Slow Food Network in the country. The project will also directly support the producers of two pilot communities, 30 women producing Slatko of wild figs and 6 producers of traditional cheeses from Mavrovo-Reka area.

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Slow Food in the canteen - Good, Healthy and Fair” food among the young generations

To get a step closer to our

vision of what daily food

should be, Slow Food

International has launched a

new project, Slow Food in

the Canteen: a European

School Network. The

objective is to have all

European Countries in this

network.

Each School in the project will be working primarily to promote sensory education through Slow Food’s taste

education kit, To the Origins of Taste. These activities will encourage greater knowledge and understanding of

the food served, how it tastes, where it comes from, and how it is produced. The schools will also aim to

improve the quality and sustainability of their meal services by evaluating canteen and food management,

procurement, conservation, preparation, service and waste.

On November 2009 Public Secondary Catering and Tourism School of the City of Skopje “Lazar Tanev” has

become member of the Slow Food Schools and Universities Network, in the framework of the project “Slow

Food in the Canteen”, aimed at introducing in our schools activities on education to taste and spreading

information about a more “Good, Healthy and Fair” food among the young generations.

The school of 1120 students will be working towards a

number of different goals, which will aim to increase the

awareness for healthy environment, knowledge about other

cultures and traditions, present Macedonian natural beauty

and tradition and to promote the taste of Macedonian

traditional food, and above all to promote Slow Food in the

canteen.

For more information visit the following website:

http://dreamcanteen.ning.com

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Food Communities and Slow Food Presidia in Macedonia

Presidium Slatko from Wild Figs A wild fig preserve, whose traditional recipe remains in the hands of only a few women, becomes the latest product to join the Slow Food Presidia – a project set up to sustain quality production at risk of extinction. The Wild Fig Slatko Presidium is the first presidium to be created in Macedonia, a country in the heart of the Balkan Peninsula that for centuries has been a crossroad of people, religions and cultures, and is now a hidden treasure of gastronomic and cultural traditions. In the area where slatko has traditionally been made, village men harvest the fruit from wild trees, while the women engage in the long and laborious preparation of preserves, transforming the otherwise-inedible fruit into high-quality slatko. With the exception of very small quantities sold through word of mouth, wild fig slatko is not found on the market but made only at home for friends

and family. Macedonia does not yet have legislation to protect typical products such as this, and the producers are currently not able to acquire certification to legally sell the preserves. The aim of the Presidium is therefore to sustain this cultural and gastronomic heritage by helping the Presidium members turn the slatko from a home-made delicacy for domestic consumption into a quality artisanal product, and eventually obtain the certification needed to sell the product.

The first step in creating the Presidium was organizing an exchange of experiences with the Pozegaca Plum Slatko Presidium in Bosnia, which deals not only with a very similar product, but also in a similar context with similar challenges. In April, Presidium coordinator Jasmina Sahovic visited the Macedonian producers, sharing with them the producers’ experiences over the past few years, and demonstrating the growing solidity of the Terra Madre Balkans network, which will hold its first regional Terra Madre meeting in Sofia next month. With the help of the Slow Food Sharplaninska, Mavrovo-Rostushe convivium, which has been instrumental in the creation of the project, Presidium members will soon establish a production protocol, set up a production workshop that conforms to current legislation, design suitable packaging and promote the product. The Presidium will also participate in the Terra Madre world meeting of food communities in October this year and will have a stand in the area dedicated to the Balkans at the Salone del Gusto. The Presidium The Presidium is formed by 30 women still using the traditional artisan method of production Area of Production The product is produced in the South East region of Macedonia, in four municipalities: Valandovo, Gevgelija, Dojran and Bogdanci

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Food Community Producers of Honey of Chestnuts from Porechie Region (Municipality of

Makedonski Brod)

Products There are 110 hectares of maroon forests that produces 250 – 300 tons of high-quality maroons annually. The harvest season of maroons begins in October. Older maroon trees exist for centuries and they are grown 1, 5 – 2 diameters and high up to 15 meters. They blossom in the beginning of June and represent the major honey-plant in the region. Although quite small (1, 5 – 3 cm), the maroons are extremely sweet. In the ancient time, the local inhabitants used to boil them, mixed them with potatoes and honey and make a special type of sweet bread. Nowadays, the maroons are used to prepare puree, sweets and cakes, and during the Christmas holidays, boiled maroons are inevitable traditional Christian dish that symbolizes life and wellbeing of next generation of children. The honey is produced exclusively from the maroon’s flower, rare nationwide but typical for the region thus unique as a product and widely demanded at the market. In the ancient times, the honey has been kept in large clay pots, which also served as a mean of secure horse transportation to the bigger cities. At present time, the honey is packed in jars made of glass and available at almost every single market in the country, but we still don’t have an organized wholesale and placement at wider EU markets. The Food Community Considering available natural resources, we’ve decided to establish a cooperative named Porecanka-Koop that will enable us to better organize placement of our products both nationwide and at EU markets. Currently, we have 35 members, mostly beekeepers and maroon producers. There are 180 active beekeepers in the Porecie region, out of which 120 producers of maroon honey that normally produce over 100 tons of high-quality honey. Area of production The name of our production region has originated from the old Slavic word Porecie which means that this area extends in parallel with the flow of the river Treska. Porecie region is landlocked area in the heart of Macedonia, surrounded from all sides by high mountains, rich forests and fresh springs favorable for bee-producing of the famous Porecie maroons. As part of the North-West part of the Republic of Macedonia, Porecie region covers a territory of 862,38 км2, with 7.141 inhabitants, out of which 50 % dealing with beekeeping, collection of maroons and forest fruits, stockbreeding and similar activities that are main source of income for most of the families. The Porecie region is composed of 50 rural settlements and the town of Makedonski Brod that is the political, cultural and economic centre of the Municipality. The

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poverty index and unemployment rate are quite high (e.g. 1.618 unemployed men and 800 women out of total 7.141 inhabitants, whereby most of them ensures their income from the abovementioned agricultural activities). Needless to say, Porecie is one of the most environmental-friendly regions in the country that provides a handful of opportunities for development of country tourism and production of healthy and organic food (i.e. maroons and maroon’s honey)

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Food Community Mavrovo National Park Mountain Pasture cheeses (Kashkaval, Belo Sirenje, Kiselo Mleko, Urda) The Products The Production of high quality cheeses from raw milk has a long tradition in this area (including the

area of Mountain Shar, outside the National Park Mavrovo) even if it has recorded a constant decline due to the difficult working condition, lack of infrastructure, lack of supportive state policies, low interest of young people in continuing the traditional mountain activities. As far as the kashval (the most appreciated product) is concerned, the villages of Lazaropole and Galichnik, which are some of the most preserved old style villages of Western Macedonia, are the only places where this hard yellow cheese is produced according to the traditional methods in all the massive of Shar and

Bistra. A community within the community is represented by the craftsmen (or majstori in Macedonian language) who are materially producing the cheese (with particular reference to the Kashkaval, which requires the most complex procedures). All of them come from a single village, Krklja, in the municipality of Kriva Palanka, which is close to the border with Bulgaria, at the opposite side of the country. The decline of this activity among the inhabitants of the small village of Krklja is probably one of the most important factors which put at risk the production of the traditional kashkaval in the area of Mavrovo. The semi-nomadic sheep-breeding and the production of cheese from raw milk in mountain areas still represent important economic activities, which are directly linked to the cultural identity of this area and should be preserved and promoted in order to invert the strong trend of depopulation. In the area of Mavrovo the following cheeses are produced: Kashkaval (yellow hard cheese) White cheese (feta type) Urda (similar to ricotta) Kiselo mleko (sour soft cheese)

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The Food Community Around 20 producers are still preserving the old traditional methods of production of mountain pastures cheeses in the region, while still only three or pour are still involved in the production of kashkaval Area of production

The National Park Mavrovo covers almost the entire territory of the Municipality of Mavrovo-Rostushe and the western, uninhabited part of Gostivar Municipality, with total surface of 731 sq Km. and a population of around 8.600 inhabitants. The settlements system is divided in two. The Southern Radika valley (river Radika is an affluent of Crni Drim River that flows out of the Ohrid Lake) hosts the bulk of villages, and all the mixed communities of Macedonian, Albanian and Turkish.

Four villages around the Mavrovo reservoir host all the tourist spots of the MNP. Mt Korabit (2,764 m) is the highest peak. It is a mountainous municipality that has suffered from the dismantling of industrial activities, unemployment, out-migration, mainly toward Italian regions of Veneto and Emilia Romagna. The highest mountain picks of the National Park Mavrovo (Mt. Korab, Bistra, Deshat) where the main “alpine” pastures huts are part of the Massive of Mountains Shar and Bistra.

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Food Community Mushrooms Growers of Negotino The town of Negotino is located in the central Povadarije-Tikvesh region of the Republic of Macedonia. The municipality of Negotino (19,212 residents) is situated on both sides of the Vardar River at 150 meters above sea level and enjoys a Mediterranean climate. The region, therefore, is well suited to support a rich, agricultural community and, indeed, more than three thousand residents engage in some sort of food production for their livelihood. Of those, 80 percent work in the grape-growing industry. A majority of these grape growers own two hectares or more of vineyard land and most engage in the home production of alcohol (wine and rakija(grape brandy)). The remaining 20 percent of farmers grow wheat, grow corn, produce honey, grow mushrooms, or keep sheep and cattle. Wild oyster, morel, boletus and chanterelle mushrooms are commonly found in the region’s

mountain areas and are seasonally gathered and organized by residents for self-consumption or for export to the EU market. Home cultivation of oyster mushrooms is a relatively new branch of agriculture that began twenty years in the Negotino region. Producers are primarily small-scale single families that grow the mushrooms in the home for self-consumption and for seasonal sale on local farmers’ markets. Larger producers of oyster mushrooms in the region may sell currently to Labeko, a private firm in Skopje, where the oyster mushrooms are processed, conserved and distributed to stores

throughout Macedonia. Residents and members of EkoVita are also active in gathering mountain tea varieties and drying them for home consumption or sale on the local market. Varieties in the Negotino region include: Sideritis scardica, Robinia pseudoacacia, Cichorium intybus, among others. In addition to experts in mushroom growing and gathering, mountain tea collection, and beekeeping, EkoVita has a network of over 50 members with expertise in various food production sectors particular to Macedonia that include, but are not limited to: grape-growing and homemade alcohol production (wine and rakija (grape brandy)); ajvar and lutenica production (grilled red pepper spreads); zimnica production (jarred, pickled vegetables); and slatko production (jarred whole fruits). All these products possess characteristics highly valued by Slow Food: all are based on regional recipes and locally developed small-scale production techniques; all have a historical tie to the region; all are seasonally produced based on availability of fresh produce; and all are conserved for consumption over the winter months and beyond.

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Food Community Kcana Sol (Smashed salt) from Kratovo and Probistip

The smashed salt in Kratovo is produced three families Tanevi, Donevski and Arsovski. The season for gathering the ingredients is July. The family Donevski is using 13 ingredients for the production of smashed salt (dry vegetables, dry herbs etc.)All those dry ingredients are smashed in a stone oval

dish until you get the final product smashed salt Kcana Sol. The family Arsovski is distributing the salt in the restaurants in Probistip (“at Zoki’s). The recipe for smashed salt is passed from generation to generation in the family. The families are using traditional tools to make the salt. The smashed salt can be smashed in a stone oval dish or using a tool from wood to smash it. It is local tradition to taste this salt with warm bread and oil. The recipe is almost 250 years passed among the family. Each family produced approximately around 30 kg of smashed salt for one year. To produce more they need capacities, tools etc. People that visit Kratovo can taste the salt at the centre or around the restaurants around Kratovo and Probistip. Even Chris Delisso promotes this salt in his reportages.

The Rock Art centre is promoting tourism in the north-east region of Macedonia. Tourist from all over the world are visiting the region and Kratovo, where they can have a look a the old monuments (old Turkish and roman bridges, towers churches etc.) and environment. Also, the tourist can have look and learn about Rock art from the Neolithic settlement nearby. They can also taste old and traditional food made by traditional recipes.

Nominations and Proposals Presentation of Food Community of Tetovo bean and white corn of Polog Region Tetovo bean (Tetovski Grav) is smooth, gray-white, off white. The exterior is smooth and shiny, and the interior is consistent. The production area is the traditional Polog region, along the Vardar River which floods create important soil fertility. Growers produce their own seeds based on local traditional knowledge. The average size of land farmed for the crop is between 0.1 and 0.5 ha. The beans are usually cultivated in tandem with white corn, which is used as natural support t for the bean. The irrigation process is facilitated by the annual flooding of the Vardar. The high water content of the soil is also involved in the quality of the bean. Regarding the market, the farmers usually sell their products in their own villages and in green markets in nearby cities. IN the Tetovo area around 20 producers are still preserving the traditional production of Tetovo bean and white corn.

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VISION, MISSION AND PRIORITIES OF SLOW FOOD IN MACEDONIA

VISION: TO MAKE MACEDONIA A SLOW COUNTRY MISSION: SPREAD PRINCIPLES AND PHILOSPHY OF SLOW FOOD IN MACEDONIA Priorities

Protecting and promoting the rights of small-scale agriculture producers and stockbreeders in

Macedonia

Awareness raising on the loss of biodiversity in agriculture

Network growing;

Network of restaurants and cooks

Capacities building for producers (including creation of collective forms of production and marketing);

Reaching production standards (hygiene and food safety without endangering traditional methods of

production);

Opening shop of traditional products in the Skopje Old City (in collaboration with Ministry of Culture,

City of Skopje and Municipality of Cair);

Developing gastronomic itineraries;

Promoting local and traditional products of Macedonia at local, national, regional and international

level

Creating a Youth Network

Etc….

Authors: - Filippo Unterhofer - President

- Ivan Kirovski - Project assistant

Foundation Slow Food Convivium Sharplaninska – Mavrovo-Rostushe