One step beyond - Scandinavian Traveler

FOR THE MODERN TRAVELER FROM SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES | NOVEMBER 2019

11

One step beyond

Lofoten – a ski paradise

like no other

A TASTE OF TOKYO Gastronomes rejoice | A FEAT OF ENDURANCE Polar expedition in SvalbardTAKING CARE OF BUSINESS Airbus A350 crew | THEA MØRK The bright side of retirement

NO MORE BRICKS IN THE WALL Berlin looks back | OFF-PISTE PERFECTION Verbier

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In this issueShortcuts ⁄ Travel tips ⁄ Portraits ⁄ City guides ⁄ Aviation ⁄ Flight guide

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120Raving about Gran Canaria

Hiking may not be the first activity you’d think of on

Gran Canaria. The Barranco de las Vacas ravine should

make you think again.

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In this issue

21 ShortcutsWe meet NHL hockey star Victor Hedman, find out where to drink coffee in Helsinki and what to see in Berlin.

36 A heavenly treatLofoten is a paradise for skiers, both for the action on the slopes and the remarkable views it affords.

46 A great adventureTwo intrepid Norwegians head out on a unique Svalbard expedition to collect climate data.

57 Ditch the skis! There’s more to winter sports than just skiing. Here are a few options to try instead.

64 Slope-safetyVerbier is a favorite among off-piste skiers, but with the thrill comes the responsibility of ava-lanche safety.

76 Gateway to adventureTurin is the perfect start-ing point for discovering the Alps and more.

87 Hands-freeHandball star Thea Mørk reflects on life after retirement over brunch in Oslo.

97 Bringing WiFi to youConnecting to the SAS WiFi network is a fast, easy process. Installing it on the plane is a more complicated procedure.

103 Airbus 350 – the insider’s view

An SAS flight attendant and a pilot give us the lowdown on the latest member of the fleet.

109 Wing it to the slopesThe new Sälen/Trysil airport brings travelers closer and faster than ever to Scandinavia’s largest ski area.

133 Can’t say no, TokyoThe Japanese capital has over 9,000 restau-rants. We guide you to some of the best.

136 Over the wallThe Berlin Wall has been gone longer than it ever existed. Its legacy looms large though.

144 Tea timeTime to think and drink like a local in Shanghai.

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178 MenuHungry? See our full range of onboard meals, snacks and drinks – go on, treat yourself!

Creatingatmospheres

RaamiJasper Morrison

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Web contentRead articles in your own language and much more at scandinaviantraveler.com

Get social

Shanghai is all about progress and success – a city in a constant

state of flux. Although it’s an im-portant center for international trade, culture, finance and inno-vation, you can still see traces of the old Shanghai, but they’re hard to find among all the tower-ing skyscrapers. According to many, Shanghai is home to the best shopping and dining expe-riences in China. In the “Four Cities,” you’ll find Chinese jade, antiques and many other things. We’ve put together a set of guides to the best restaurants, shopping, hotels and attractions in Shanghai.

@ringnes_photoArt by nature Sony a7r III | 16-35gm.

@simmesjobergThree more years to life-time Gold card , point of no return! Let’s go for it!!! Btw, yes it’s a real tat-too @flysas and it’s on my arm

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SHANGHAI

GET TO KNOW SHANGHAI FROM THE SKY

Stand on any street in Shanghai and you’ll most likely be amazed by the buzz and the beauty. But don’t forget to look up! With some of the tallest buildings in the world, China’s largest city has a whole lot going on up there, too. Here’s a guide to Shanghai’s many accessible skyscrapers.

THREE GREAT TEAHOUSES IN SHANGHAI

In China, tea is more than just a drink, and to really experience Chinese culture during a visit, a stop at a teahouse is a must. Here are three great ones to choose from in Shanghai.

WHERE TO EAT, SLEEP AND VISIT IN LUZHI

Nestled between the modern Chinese cities of Shanghai and Suzhou, the tiny water town of Luzhi casts historic ripples across the region. Here’s a guide to make the most of your trip there.

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SCANDINAVIANTRAVELER.COM

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TOUR LUXEMBOURG CITY ON FOOT The capital of this tiny country offers the

perfect opportunity to stretch your legs, with plenty to see as you go. Here’s your step-by-step guide to Luxembourg City in a day.

MUST-DO’S WHEN VISITING MADEIRA Madeira and its capital Funchal offer experiences that

cross culture, design and the outdoors. Here are some of our favorite things to do there.

10 FASCINATING FACTS ABOUT MANCHESTER

Mancunians will probably tell you that Manchester is the best city in the world, let alone in England. But for the rest of us, it’s a great place to visit. Here are 10 things you might not know about Britain’s third city.

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Keep in touch

1Sports exchange

SAS’ new campaign is aimed at finding three

Scandinavian youth teams for an exchange program that will take

them to Japan to meet local athletes in basket-ball, track and field, and karate in the run-up to the Summer Olympics

in Tokyo in 2020.

2Explore the outside

of SAS’ new A320neoHave a look at the new A320neo with its envi-

ronmentally friendly, CFM Leap 1A engines

and large sharklets.

3SAS historical fleet Join us on a historical journey with SAS’ fleet over 70 years, with air-

craft like the DC-4, which flew Stockholm

– New York in 24 hours, and the Caravelle, SAS’

first jet plane.

HOW TO BE A SUSTAINABLE TRAVELER What makes the ultimate climate-smart

traveler? We show you how to stay one step ahead when traveling by air – and reduce emissions. “There’s growing interest among air travelers in general, but it would be fantastic if even more of them were to get involved,” Lars Andersen Resare, Head of Environment & CSR at SAS says.

The inside story

THE INSIDE STORY

Winter in Scandinavia is all about snow and ice,

and in Finland ice equals hockey! Sometimes it’s nicer to sit in the stands with a warm hotdog and

a cold beer and watch others play. Helsinki

offers a unique opportu-nity for that, as local

team Jokerit plays in the Russian Kontinental Hockey League and

takes on teams such as legendary CSKA

Moscow and exotic Kun-lun Red Star from China.

Risto PakarinenEditor

Try one of the most in-tense Scandinavian tra-

ditions this winter – vinter bada! Start with a lakeside sauna and then

run and jump into ice- cold water. I guarantee it will kickstart your entire body. Do make sure you

give youself time to warm up again in the sauna afterwards, though!

In Stockholm, the best place to try it is at

Hellasgården, just on the outskirts of town. Winter

in Sweden at its best.Gustav Karlsson

Web editor

How about experiencing Stockholm from the

water this winter? For me, the perfect idea is to

get out into the crisp, cold air on a pair of ice

skates. There are several beautiful stretches of ice-covered lakes just half an hour from the center of Stockholm. Bring a simple picnic

along with you and follow the wind for a cozy,

active day on the ice. Therese Sahlén

Art Director

As someone who likes –rather than loves – the

sight of snow, the idea of combining a ski trip with a

sunny getaway in Spain appeals greatly. For that reason, I’ve long thought about taking a winter trip

to the Sierra Nevada. I like the idea of exercise and

hot chocolate on the slopes in the morning,

then driving down to the coast and playing a round of golf or just relaxing with a cold beer as some kind

of reward!Geoff Mortimore

Editor

In this month’s Scandinavian Traveler, we’re celebrating the fast-approaching winter season. It’s tempting to think just about skiing, but there are plenty of other activities on our

minds. Here are just a few reasons why we love winter!

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Scandinavian Traveler is a magazine published 11 times a year and a daily updated website produced by OTW Communication in cooperation with SAS. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed and do not necessarily reflect the views of the editors, OTW Communication or Scandinavian Airlines. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and illustrations are not accepted. Scandinavian Traveler accepts no responsibility for such material sent to its office, nor is it liable for loss of, or damage to, such material. All editorial material in the magazine Scandinavian Traveler is digitally stored and will be republished on the web and in various digital media. Persons contributing material to Scandinavian Traveler consent to digital storage and republication. Any reservations against this should be made before publication. All correspondence to Scandinavian Traveler may be published. SAS Customer Relations www.sas.se/feedback

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About the coverWinter at last and the search for something a little different is well and truly on. Lofoten in

Norway may not offer the highest peaks, but what it

lacks in altitude, it more than makes up for with spectac

ular views. No wonder it’s attracting more and more

visitors each year.

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FOR THE MODERN TRAVELER FROM SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES | NOVEMBER 2019

11

One step beyond

Lofoten – a ski paradise

like no other

A TASTE OF TOKYO Gastronomes rejoice | A FEAT OF ENDURANCE Polar expedition in SvalbardTAKING CARE OF BUSINESS Airbus A350 crew | THEA MØRK The bright side of retirement

NO MORE BRICKS IN THE WALL Berlin looks back | OFF-PISTE PERFECTION Verbier

document408882348967258103.indd 66-1 10/17/2019 10:54:18 AM

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ShortcutsTrendwatch ⁄ Crew tips ⁄ Checkpoint ⁄ Gadgets ⁄ When in...

Snow time One of the most quoted lines

in the Star Wars prequels – and not in a good way – is Anakin Skywalker’s monologue on sand. “I don’t like sand. It’s coarse and rough and irritating and it gets everywhere.” Well, snow gets everywhere too, but people love it and surely even future Darth Vader had a more friendly relationship with snow. Now’s the season to get on the slopes and play in the snow, like Fanni and Jahki at Zell am See, Austria in the photo. December sees the start of a new era in Zell am See-Kaprun when the new K-onnection lift will link the Maiskogel with the Kitzstein-horn. There’s no business like snow business.

Photo: Jussi O

vaskainen


Crew tips

Crew tips BerlinDavid Bowie once called Berlin, “The greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine” – and, if anything, the German capital’s reputation has grown even further. Flight Attendant Ejner Søjdis tips us on this always-hot city.

TEMPELHOF AIRPORT 1 If you’re an aviation and

history buff like me, this is definitely something you’ll love. The guided tour costs €15 and has to be booked in advance. Standing in Tempelhof today is like stepping back to the day the airport closed its opera-tions. You’ll learn plenty of historical facts about the military operations at the airport and commercial op-erations following the war.Tempelhofer Damm 1-7 thf-berlin.de/fuehrungen

COMMONGROUND When I’m not in Berlin I

crave Commonground’s amazing baked cannellini beans with chorizo. If you’re looking for an early buzz, they serve one of the best espresso martinis I’ve ever had. It can get busy during the weekend, but it’s defi-nitely worth the wait. Commonground, Rosenthaler Str. 1commongrnd.de

THE BOROS COLLECTION

2 This privately-owned collection of contemporary art is exhibited in a convert-ed bunker built during WWII. The exhibitions are won-derful, while the building itself is also well worth the visit. For safety reasons the bunker can only be visited with a guide.Sammlung Boros BunkerReinhardtstr. 20sammlung-boros.de

TRANSIT RESTAURANT3 After a full day of roam-

ing around Berlin, this place is the perfect combination of delicious food and re-laxed atmosphere. Transit serves Asian-style tapas, where you order as many small dishes as you like. I love the duck in pajamas, crispy prawns and gado gado. After dinner, check out the cocktail menu. Rosenthaler Str. 68transit-restaurants.com

BAR SAINT JEAN This rather small bar

serves a great Moscow Mule (as well as other mules) in a cozy, warm atmosphere. It can get crowded during the weekend, so pop in for a quick drink before or after dinner. Steinstr. 21barsaintjean.business.site

NIVEA HAUS If you’re walking around

Berlin on a cold day and feel the need to pamper yourself or your partner with something special, then head to Nivea’s flag-ship store, Nivea Haus. They offer a wide range of different treatments here. The massages are great, very reasonably priced, and offer a great break from the buzzing city. Best of all, they offer couples massages. Unter den Linden 28nivea.de/nivea-haus/nivea-haus

21

Ejner SøjdisAge: 27Lives: CopenhagenSAS position: Flight AttendantYears with SAS: 4Off time: When I’m not working above the clouds, I study manage-ment. I love to cook and be creative in the kitch-en, and, of course, I love to travel and explore new places.

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THIS WAY TO BERLIN

A round trip to Berlin will cost you from

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SCANDINAVIANTRAVELER.COM NOVEMBER 2019 24

Update

Walk out to winterIt’s no secret that Denmark is great for hiking, but in winter? Absolutely! So says outdoor blogger and winter hiker Hanne Jensen, who has come to love the Danish countryside and its hiking adventures.

B y L I S E H A N N I BA L

anne Jensen has walked hundreds of kilometers across the Danish countryside and shares her expe

riences in her blog hannahincolors.dk “I think Denmark’s definitely under

rated as a hiking destination,” she says. “Through my blog and photos, I hope to inspire others to go out and experience the beautiful, wild nature there is in this country.”

Jensen particularly recommends the Thy region on the west coast of Jutland, where she’s walked a total of 670km, often during storms and wintry weather. “I really love rough, wild nature. The wilder the better!” she says. She loves to hike alone and when it’s too cold and dark for other people. “Winter hiking has given me all kinds of things I’d never expected,” Jensen says. “It gives you tremendous selfconfidence when you’re able to look after yourself out there all alone. You feel like Goliath. And you have it all to yourself, too.”

A good winter hike requires preparation. “Try on your woolen underclothes, check your backpack and make sure your sleeping bag is warm enough. Start on a small scale by spending a night in the garden or somewhere else where you can come home again quickly. Next, maybe try a oneday hike with one night out

doors, and then move on to two or three days of winter hiking with two nights outdoors,” she advises.

JENSEN HAS THREE top tips when it comes to equipment and clothing. “Layer up. The inner layer should be warm and moisturefree. The next should be warm, made from down for example, and the outer one should be a shell jacket that provides external protection against the elements. Your backpack should be as light as possible, so only pack things that have more than one function and don’t forget how much food and water weigh – lots of people do. I also have a small tent with me on long hikes. That way you always have protection from the weather, even if you can’t find shelter.”

Denmark doesn’t have the same public right to roam that Sweden enjoys, so what’s Jensen’s advice for hikers who want to spend a night outdoors in the wild?

“My Christmas and birthday wish each year is the introduction of a public right to roam! I don’t think I’ll get it though. So I recommend checking out mst.dk/friluftsliv and finding shelters using the app shelterapp.dk or udinaturen.dk. I also have one golden rule – Leave no trace! Always clean up after yourself.”

Hanne NörskauJensenLives: Slagelse, DenmarkProfession: Writes the blog hanna hincolors. dk about hiking, out-door life and more. Has hiked the Camønoen and Gendarmstien trails and the entire 670km of the west coast of Jutland.

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When in… HelsinkiWhether you prefer your coffee hot, cold, strong, weak, pitch black or with milk, you’ll find what you’re looking for in Helsinki, the capital city of coffee lovers. Here are five places to soothe your coffee itch.

B y A M A N DA H J E L M

When in...

KAFFA ROASTERY1 In 2007, Svante Kampf

decided to open a café together with some friends. A place where they could roast their own coffee which they initially did us-ing an old popcorn machine. Today, their café acts more like a place where they can meet creative people and test new ideas. They aim to be as sustainable as possible and to steer coffee con-sumption in Finland from quantity to quality. Båtsmansgatan 29 kaffaroastery.fi

ANDANTE2 This stylish little café is

run by partners Nikko Lio and Mia Fang. Naturally, coffee is a priority. But don’t forget to take a close look at the display of cakes

and pastries. You’ll find everything from home-baked cinnamon buns and croissants to rawballs and vegan cakes. Fredrikinkatu 20Afacebook.com/AndanteHelsinki

SÄVY Sävy sources beans and

ground coffee from small producers considered to be among the best 5% in the world. If you prefer your coffee white, rest assured they always use organic milk from Finnish cows. They also serve an all-day breakfast here.Aleksis Kivis gata 12 kahvilasavy.fi

LA TORREFAZIONE3 To work at La

Torrefazione, you have to pass a special test for baristas. To be accepted,

you not only have to make a perfect cup of coffee, you also need to know how the coffee should be served. They never compromise on quality here and every cup is perfect in its own right. Alexandersgatan 50latorre.fi

GOOD LIFE COFFEE When this café opened,

the idea was to create an atmosphere where people could meet and socialize over a cup of coffee. So, don’t be afraid to say hi to the people at the next table. They say themselves that there’s nothing fancy about their coffee, it’s all about honesty and a refusal to compromise.Kolmas Linja 17goodlifecoffee.fi

THIS WAY TO HELSINKI

A round trip to Helsinki will earn you up to 1,000

points in SAS Go.Book at flysas.com

Helsinki on foot Best walking tips in downtown Helsinki at scandinaviantraveler.com

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Q&A

Victor HedmanAge: 28Born: ÖrnsköldsvikFamily: Wife Sanna, two brothers, Johan and OscarProfession: Ice hockey player. Defenseman for the Tampa Bay Light-ning. First Lightning player ever to win the coveted Norris Trophy. Current: Playing in the NHL Global Series against the Buffalo Sabres at Globen in Stockholm on 8 and 9 November.

Q&AVictor Hedman

How does it feel to be coming “home” for the Global Series? It’s going to be an unreal experience. I played there till I was 18, but to come back with my NHL team in front of my friends and family and the Swedish fans is a once-in- a-lifetime experience. I’ve been looking forward to it since the day they told me we would be going over!

What influence did your family have on your ice hockey career?My oldest brother is eight

years older than I am and the other one is four years older. Both are hockey players. We’ve always had a good rela-tionship and they were obvi-ously two major reasons for me playing hockey. I pretty much grew up at the rink.

Tell us about your hockey school in Örnsköldsvik.I’ve been running it for 10 years this summer. We have four groups and about 125 kids. It’s been such an honor to follow the progress of the kids, some of whom have

been going three or four times now. We have pretty much the same group of people who work there, from the coaches to the support staff, who make everything run smoothly. It feels good to be able to give a little bit back to my home-town.

What advice do you give kids who dream of becoming professionals?I try to think back to how I was when I was their age. I played soccer as well when I was younger, and I tell them that if they have time they should play one sport in win-ter, one in summer. We try to encourage them to be determined, but also to have fun. Obviously you have to train hard, but if you’re having fun, things will come easily to you.

What are your ambitions per-sonally and for the Tampa Bay Lightning? First, to continue to grow as a player. I want to be that guy you rely on in all situations on the ice. Of course, everyone dreams of winning the Stanley Cup, but it’s so tough. I’ve been close a few times and we know how hard we need to work but that’s what keeps driving me on.

What do you make of Tampa?It’s been great for me both as a city and team. I had a slight-ly rocky start arriving as an 18-year-old – it’s not easy at that age in a different country, with a different culture, and it took some time but fortunate-ly they were patient with my development and it’s worked out so well. Tampa is a great place. Some people say, “It’s Florida, it can’t be a hockey town,” but it really is. We’ve sold out close to 200 games with crowds of 19,000. I’m proud to wear the badge and it has become home away from home for me and my family.

Swedish ice hockey star Victor Hedman returns to his homeland this month when his NHL team, the Tampa Bay Lightning, takes on the Buffalo Sabres in Stockholm as part of the NHL Global Series.

Victor Hedman – Tampa Bay Lightning.

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Update

his year marks the 500th anniversary of the death of legendary

artist Leonardo da Vinci. So what better place to commem-orate the treasure trove of work he produced during his lifetime than at the Louvre in Paris, currently the holder of the largest da Vinci painting collection in the world, (in addition to a number of draw-ings)? The Louvre says the “unprecedented” retrospec-tive is the culmination of ten years of work and research. It has collected as many of da Vinci’s works as possible to complement its existing

collection, and has even examined archival documents to uncover new facts about the man and his life. Running through 24 February, 2020, the exhibition is going to be wildly popular, and as a result the Louvre is requiring that visitors obtain timed tickets to see it. The good news is that this should help to reduce crowding – as anyone who has ever gone to see the Mona Lisa, regularly obscured by a dozen smartphones held aloft in front of it, will appreciate.

louvre.fr/en/expositions/leonardo-da-vinci

The Da Vinci Code

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Come and experience Småland and the Kingdom of Crystal. Kosta Lodge is located in the middle of the Kingdom of Crystal, close to one of Sweden’soldest glassworks. Guests come to us to experience, relax and feel good.

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Served Thursday, Friday and Saturday 9 November to 21 December.

SEK 675 per person excluding drinks. Add accommodation package from SEK 620 per person, part in double room.

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Lodgify your Christmas spririt …

Oulu region offers personal and unique experiences for the visitor. The area is an unforgottable and diverse travel destination with the highlights of Finland. Oulu region consists of cultural life of a modern urban city as well as the authentic northern nature with the arctic archipelago and southernmost fell area.

Oulu Airport is the second busiest in Finland and dozens of flights from Finland as well as from abroad arrive to Oulu on a daily basis.

visitoulu.com

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Gadgets

Technology keeps getting better for those looking to shoot quality video on the go, and nowadays getting great

production value from a tiny device is no stretch at all. Whether you’re a vlogger or merely an enthusiast, here’s a look at some of the top video cameras on the market today.

B y G a b r i e l Le i g h

Film on the fly

GOPRO HERO71 The classic choice for shooting

video anywhere and at anytime, the GoPro is compact, robust and powerful. Whether you’re underwa-ter, flying through the air or just going for a walk, the GoPro is designed to come along with you and capture high-quality, super-smooth footage the whole way. It’s also surprisingly affordable. gopro.com

CANON POWERSHOT G7 X MARK III

2 The G7 X Mark II has long been one of the top cameras for travel vloggers, and the new Mark III makes some key improvements to its pre-decessor. 4K video, live-streaming capability, a fast lens that lets in lots of light and generally superb image quality make this a great choice. store.canon.com

DJI OSMO POCKET 3 DJI has packed a lot into a tiny

package with this camera, which you can take just about anywhere and operate easily with one hand. The built-in gimbal provides some of the best image stabilization on the market, while it’s powerful enough to record in 4K (or slow motion video in 1080p). All in all, a very impressive little machine. dji.com/se/osmo-pocket

IPHONE 11 PRO 4 Although in a slightly different cat-

egory, as it’s more than just a cam-era, the latest iPhone’s video capa-bilities are so impressive that it deserves to be considered alongside the others. You can shoot 4K video at 60fps, while it boasts plenty of dy-namic range and excellent image stabilization, which make it especial-ly attractive for filming while on the move. apple.com/iphone-11-pro

SONY RX100 V5 This is the most expensive on the

list, but offers some of the highest quality video you can get in a com-pact size, thanks to a 24-200mm zoom lens, a very capable autofocus to keep you or anything else you want to shoot sharp, and enhanced image stabilization. The external micro phone jack is also handy for recording high-quality audio. sony.com/electronics/cyber-shot-compact-cameras

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Update

THE STOCKHOLM FILM FESTIVAL TURNS 30

eld from 6–7 Nov- ember this year, the Stockholm Film Festi-

val is one of the go-to events of the year for film buffs in Scandinavia.

Apart from the usual range of new and interesting films, the festival also hosts what it calls “Face2Face” events where audience members can have interactions and discus-sions with special guests from the filmmaking world, includ-ing a number of directors and actors.

Students benefit from special discounted pricing in order to encourage young people to be exposed to great

new films from around the world. In past years special guests have included some of the cream of the crop, includ-ing Quentin Tarantino, Susan Sarandon, Francis Ford Coppola, Wes Anderson, David Lynch, Peter Fonda, Isabelle Huppert and Uma Thurman.

As it’s the 30th anniversary of the festival this year, it’s sure to have an especially fes-tive atmosphere – highly recommended for anyone with an interest in the silver screen.

stockholmfilmfestival.se/en

Noah Baumbach’s Marriage Story opens the 30th Stockholm International Film Festival.

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Skiing in wonderlandLofoten offers some of the most beautiful skiing in Norway, and indeed the world – but you have to walk to the top to find it.

Tex t a n d p h o t o s b y H A N S K R I ST I A N K RO G H - H A N S S E N

NOVEMBER 2019 SCANDINAVIANTRAVELER.COM

Lofoten

37

On a good day in Lofotenthe views never disappoint.


Lofoten

38

Ragnhild Pedersen moved back to Lofoten, drawn by the stunning nature of the area.


Lofoten

The peaks are often much easier to climb than they look. Most of the mountains here in Lofoten offer very easy access and many are well-suited for safe ski touring.”

Adam Erik Gunnarsson is speak-ing over his shoulder. A strong gust of wind from the Norwegian Sea

brings the freshly fallen snow swirling up around him. The light from the low winter sun gives the alpine peaks a red and purple glow and the broken landscape of peaks shooting straight up out of the ocean contrasts beauti-fully with the water stretching calmly to the horizon.

“You almost always have a wonderful view on Lofoten, as long as the weather’s good like it is today,” says Gunnarsson, who lives here and works as a guide for Norgesguidene. “It’s also unique for alpine moun-tains to be as low as they are here. Most of the peaks in Lofoten are less than 1,000m high and you can easily and quickly find yourself in spectacular surroundings.”

Had he and his party been in a resort in the Alps on a day like this, they would most likely have been among crowds of people. Out on Vestvågøya island in Lofoten, it’s a different story though.

‘Most of the peaks in Lofoten are less than 1,000m high and you can easily and quickly find yourself in spectacular surroundings’

It’s no ordinary ski trip you go on to experience the Lofoten archipelago at its best. Although there are three small resorts here, it’s ski touring using mountaineering equipment that’s drawing increasing numbers to Lofo-ten. Also known as randonnée, the popular ski touring involves going up to the top of the mountain on skis or a snowboard with skins, removing the skins at the top and then skiing or snowboarding down through the breathtaking, unspoiled natural scenery.

“Ski touring is definitely a growing trend in Nor-way, with Lofoten high on the list for enthusiasts from many countries,” says Haaken Christensen, senior adviser on adventure tourism for Visit Norway. “The

TIPS Use local guides. Take your time. Don’t plan your destination

until the day of your tour. Remember that the

avalanche risk is no joke.

Ragnhild Pedersen enjoys perfect conditions on a powder day in Lofoten.


idea of skiing from mountain to fjord is very special to Norway. Canada and Alaska can offer a similar expe-rience, but there isn’t as great a range of offerings and it’s often much more expensive than in Norway. We have a well-developed network of airports across the country and the range of ski tours offered by operators is steadily increasing. There’s no doubt that ski touring and unspoiled nature are hot right now.”

The key to any successful trip is the awareness of safe-ty measures and equipment, according to Christensen – along with the use of local guides.

“Many people come here from abroad with their own guides and don’t have the right skills and knowledge for the areas they’ll be skiing in,” he says. “We want peo-ple to have a safe experience, so local, certified guides should be a priority for everyone.”

BACK ON VESTVÅGØYA, the skiing party has reached the summit. It’s late January and the days are short here, be-ing north of the Arctic Circle. The sun has barely peeped out before disappearing again. Ragnhild Pedersen sets the bindings to downhill mode and smiles.

“Ski touring combines mastery of the conditions with

THIS WAY TO LOFOTEN

SAS flies direct to Harstad/Narvik from Oslo and offers connecting flights from other cities in Scandinavia.

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Lofoten

Use local guides for a safe and enjoyable experience if you don't have much experience. Lofoten is very tough and conditions can change quickly.

Surf’s up! Meet the brave souls who love winter surfing in Lofoten at

scandinaviantraveler.com

LOFOTEN


Lofoten

beautiful natural scenery and exciting descents,” she says. “We’ve also had a lot of snow recently, so this is going to be amazing.”

Pedersen is originally from Lofoten and only recently moved back here after finishing her studies on the main-land. She’s come back partly to work, but mostly to enjoy the natural surroundings.

“People like me, who are relatively inexperienced in the mountains in winter – and have limited knowl-edge about avalanches – need to be very careful in Lo-foten,” Pedersen says. “Although, I’ve found that there are plenty of tours you can take here without being an expert. There’s something for everyone in Lofoten, but you have to show the mountains respect and always keep safety in mind.”

A few minutes later, only faint traces remain behind the group of skiers. A silhouette disappears over the crest of a ridge like a gull at sea. A joyful shout can be heard.

No wonder.Lofoten is a skier’s paradise.

GET ACTIVE IN LOFOTENICE CLIMBING WITH NORTHERN ALPINE GUIDES

In Lofoten, you can experi-ence breathtaking ascents above the sea. With its jagged peaks, Lofoten is a climber’s dream and the possibilities here are endless. Northern Alpine Guides tailors programs to suit you. When: from February alpineguides.no

HIKING WITH BONFIRES Arctic Guide Service will take

you on a 5km-long hike to Lofoten’s fantastic winter beaches. Nestling between steep mountains are the beach-es of Haukland and Uttakleiv. Enjoy a hot drink around the bonfire and if you’re lucky, the northern lights may even put on a show.arcticguideservice.com

SNOWSHOEING Take in the scenery on snow-

shoes and experience beautiful, pure nature up close and per-sonal. Local guides will lead you on easy tours safe from avalanches.lofoten-aktiv.nolofoten.info/snowshoeexplorer

HORSEBACK RIDING UNDER THE NORTHERN LIGHTS

Hov Hestegård stables offer riding tours all year round. Hov is situated on the coast of Lofoten, facing north with no mountains blocking the view, making it an excellent starting point for experiencing the northern lights. When: From September to Aprilhovgard.no

NORTHERN LIGHTS PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP

You’ll learn important night-time photography skills and experienced photographers will show you the best techniques for capturing the lights on camera.lofoten.info/Nordlys-vinter

Lofoten

NORWAY

Travel to Lofoten by bus from Harstad/ Narvik airport, or fly to Bodø and take a ferry.

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Map background © MapTiler © OpenStreetMap contributors. See: https://www.maptiler.com/copyright/

Where are the homes you own located?

Chamonix, Southern France, Barcelona, Mallor-ca and Tuscany.

What do you like the most about 21-5?

It’s the fact, that we now own 5 fantastic homes totalling 42,000,000 DKK - all situated at the most beautiful places in Europe giving us sun, beaches, skiing, hiking, big city, and rural idyll. Something that could never dream of owning by ourselves. Our homes are not rent-als or are timeshare - they are all actually ours. We will come back again and again, and we will get to know the five destinations and all the possibilities

well. We will get to know the small restaurant that we normally would never know, but which has been recommended by other of our co-owners on our groups private member-site. The same goes for all the good beaches, walk-ing routes, ski slopes etc. etc. When this is said, we also have to point out, that we are filled with admira-tion of how beautiful our homes are. The results of the renovations are fantas-tic, and we have already been inspired to copy some of the things in our home in Denmark. It’s easy to get to our homes, and the holiday is careless and serene. We always look forward to vacating in our five homes. Our homes are great, and so is 21-5, who indeed has lived up to our

great expectations with-out exception. Everything has worked from day 1 and the enthusiasm we experience from everyone at 21-5 makes us feel safe and in good hands. They are 100% on top of things, so we can focus on having a good time without prob-lems.

How is it to own vacation homes with 20 other families?

So far it has been com-pletely unproblematic and well-functioning. We find that everyone has the same attitude. Care must be taken of the homes and we want to help each other in terms of recom-mendations and experi-ences about the homes and cities.

We own 5 beautifulvacation homes

More than 600 families have joined a 21-5 owners association, and have invested more than 1.000.000.000 DKK in vacation properties through the last 6-7 years. We have talked to the 21-5 owners Birgitte Møs and Kim Jørgsensen.

21-5 DK18 Barcelona

Birgitte & Kim, 21-5 owners in DK18

• 21 families share 5 vacation homesEvery family owns 1/21 of each of the 5 homes.

• Much more value for moneyEach of the 5 homes is worth about four times your investment. You become co-owner of not just one, but 5 homes.

• Hassle-free ownershipMaintenance and everything practical is taken care of by 21-5.

• Endless experiencesAs a 21-5 owner you have 5 homes where you can enjoy unforgettable vacation experiences year-round.

• Please your family and good friendsLet your children, family or friends enjoy your 21-5 homes.

• Low riskAll 21-5 properties are bought outright on cash basis.

• Easy to sell againFully transparent and straight forward exit strategy. 21-5 has a proven track record of re-selling owner shares with an attractive value appreciation.

FACTS ABOUT THE CONCEPT

ADVERTORIAL

Barcelona

21-5 DK18 Barcelona

Our website contains a lot of detailed infor-mation and you can also explore the galleries presenting many of the 21-5 vacation homes we have created.

We welcome any opportunity to meet with you. Simply contact us at any time if you want to learn more about 21-5.

DO YOU WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT 21-5?

21-5 SVERIGECentralplan 15111 20 Stockholm

Tlf.: + 46 72-7000 [email protected]

21-5 NORGENedre Slottsgate 110157 Oslo

Tlf.: + 47 982 33 [email protected]

21-5 DANMARK (HQ)Rungstedvej 412970 Hørsholm

Tlf.: + 45 70 26 11 [email protected]

The illustration shows the value you get with 21-5 compared to buying a vacation home on your own. Instead of owning your own single home, you own 5 vacation homes which each represents a value more than four times your investment.

MORE VALUE FOR MONEY

ADVERTORIALWhat is your experience with the 21-5 team?

We are always met with good energy, great hos-pitality, authenticity and honesty. And on top of that sincere professionalism - and a really good taste in terms of choice of housing, renovation and interior de-sign. The high standards of our homes makes you want to invite the Jazz team (the design team from 21-5) to your home, to give you tips and tricks. It also makes you want to replace your old bathrobe with the delicious bathrobes from the Mallor-can neighborhood - and you want to change more things in your kitchen drawers and cabinets. Our homes are so stylish that we find inspira-tion in every room.

Are you satisfied with the support from 21-5?

We have only had to write with the support-team a couple of times. We’ve been met by helpul and energet-ic employees - always with a smile.

How about the booking and the planning of vaca-tions, does it work?

In the beginning, Sunday night was when the points were assigned, it was just like Christmas Eve. At first we were anxious to see, if we could get weeks, that we wanted. And we could. So far we have books all the weeks that we aimed for. We have adult children and are not dependent on school holidays. We can travel at all possible times of the year and really like Southern Eu-rope in spring and autumn months. We’ll probably take some extended weekends, where we travel Thursday night and come home Sun-day. The booking works re-ally well, and it is a pleasure logon to the booking sys-tem and look at our booked holidays. It’s so much easier than having to search for vacations and check out all kinds of rentals and hotels. We have traveled a lot for many years - and now we have come to a point, where we are happy to settle down a bit, and get to know our five destinations very well.

Has 21-5 been a good investment for you?

When we look at the resales made in the 21-5 groups, it seems like it has been a good investment - also in the short term. Looking at the long term investment we know, that real estate always increases over time. And when we at the same time spread our risk over fives fantastic destinations, it just cant go wrong in the long run.

Where are the homes you own located?

Chamonix, Southern France, Barcelona, Mallor-ca and Tuscany.

What do you like the most about 21-5?

It’s the fact, that we now own 5 fantastic homes totalling 42,000,000 DKK - all situated at the most beautiful places in Europe giving us sun, beaches, skiing, hiking, big city, and rural idyll. Something that could never dream of owning by ourselves. Our homes are not rent-als or are timeshare - they are all actually ours. We will come back again and again, and we will get to know the five destinations and all the possibilities

well. We will get to know the small restaurant that we normally would never know, but which has been recommended by other of our co-owners on our groups private member-site. The same goes for all the good beaches, walk-ing routes, ski slopes etc. etc. When this is said, we also have to point out, that we are filled with admira-tion of how beautiful our homes are. The results of the renovations are fantas-tic, and we have already been inspired to copy some of the things in our home in Denmark. It’s easy to get to our homes, and the holiday is careless and serene. We always look forward to vacating in our five homes. Our homes are great, and so is 21-5, who indeed has lived up to our

great expectations with-out exception. Everything has worked from day 1 and the enthusiasm we experience from everyone at 21-5 makes us feel safe and in good hands. They are 100% on top of things, so we can focus on having a good time without prob-lems.

How is it to own vacation homes with 20 other families?

So far it has been com-pletely unproblematic and well-functioning. We find that everyone has the same attitude. Care must be taken of the homes and we want to help each other in terms of recom-mendations and experi-ences about the homes and cities.

We own 5 beautifulvacation homes

More than 600 families have joined a 21-5 owners association, and have invested more than 1.000.000.000 DKK in vacation properties through the last 6-7 years. We have talked to the 21-5 owners Birgitte Møs and Kim Jørgsensen.

21-5 DK18 Barcelona

Birgitte & Kim, 21-5 owners in DK18

• 21 families share 5 vacation homesEvery family owns 1/21 of each of the 5 homes.

• Much more value for moneyEach of the 5 homes is worth about four times your investment. You become co-owner of not just one, but 5 homes.

• Hassle-free ownershipMaintenance and everything practical is taken care of by 21-5.

• Endless experiencesAs a 21-5 owner you have 5 homes where you can enjoy unforgettable vacation experiences year-round.

• Please your family and good friendsLet your children, family or friends enjoy your 21-5 homes.

• Low riskAll 21-5 properties are bought outright on cash basis.

• Easy to sell againFully transparent and straight forward exit strategy. 21-5 has a proven track record of re-selling owner shares with an attractive value appreciation.

FACTS ABOUT THE CONCEPT

ADVERTORIAL


Xxxxxxxxxxxxx


Polar expedition

in cold climesTwo intrepid Norwegians are spending nine months

isolated in a trapper’s hut in Svalbard. Their study will see them field-test solar and wind power equipment – as well as

their own personal limits – in one of the world’s most extreme environments.

B y I N G A R AG N H I L D H O LST P h o t o s b y TOV E K . B R E I ST E I N

Warm hearts


Polar expedition

t’s soon after their arrival and Hilde Fålun Strøm, 52, is giving her all, rolling barrels full of supplies up the beach to Bamsebu, the little cabin along Ingebrigt Bay in

southern Svalbard, where she and Sunniva Sørby, 58, will be staying for nine months. Hefty winds whip across bare cheeks and try to rip your hat off. It’s 150km to the nearest settlement, with no road in between.

Fålun Strøm, a Norwegian native, otherwise lives in a more populated area of Svalbard and serves as the local product manager for Hurtigruten, the cruise, ferry and cargo operator. But now the provisions she’s rolling up to the hut will have to keep her and Sørby, a Norwegian- Canadian, going until June of 2020. Today they wave goodbye to family, friends and, yes, all the comforts of home. For the next nine months (including three months with zero daylight), this will be their home, cut off from everyone and everything in the lower latitudes. They’ll be taking water samples, counting reindeer, foxes and polar bears, and studying everything from microplastics to the northern lights as viewed from Bamsebu (a name that translates as “teddy bear cabin”).

The name of their expedition? Hearts in the Ice. “In 2015, a huge landslide in Longyearbyen took out

12 neighboring houses,” Fålun Strøm recounts. She was on the rescue team. A two-year-old child and a 43-year-old man died in the collapse. “That did something to our lives, to our society,” she says.

The losses won’t stop there. According to the Norwegian Directorate for Civil Protection, a Ministry of Justice agency, more storms lie ahead, presenting new challenges for Svalbard and its residents. Temperatures are expected to rise, with the Arctic likely to see a great-er increase than anywhere else in the world. But Fålun Strøm saw this happening long before the 2015 acci-dent. Ever since she moved to the remote archipelago in 1995, she’s been monitoring changes in temperature, glaciers, fjords and mountains.

“The glaciers used to be up to 5km farther out in the fjords than they are today. When I first came here, there were only very few patches of green. Now the whole island is green. New species are arriving, and we don’t know how this will affect the food chain.”

REPRESENTING THE OPPOSITE pole is the Norwegian- born Sørby. Although based in British Columbia, Canada she is employed by Polar Latitudes, the oper-ator of two touring ships in Antarctica. She’s also had the distinction, back in 1992–1993, of walking across Antarctica to the South Pole. So, like Fålun Strøm,

HEARTS IN THE ICE Hilde Fålun Strøm and Sunniva Sørby will be spending nine

months in a 20sq m trapper’s hut named Bamsebu in Svalbard, Norway’s farthest north outpost. The hut has no running water, but a wood fire will keep them warm. During their stay, Sørby and Fålun Strøm will be collecting data for institutions in Norway and around the world, including the Norwegian Polar Institute, the University Centre in Svalbard, the Scripps Institution of Oceanography and the British Columbia Institute of Technology.

While in Svalbard, Fålun Strøm and Sørby will rely on a MetOcean-MCD Missionlink iridium satellite to report their findings. The goal is to raise awareness and hold a dialogue on climate change in the polar regions. heartsintheice.com

I

Svalbard, the land of the polar bear is the head-quarters of the Hearts in the Ice expedition.

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Polar expedition

she’s witnessed firsthand how the world of nature has changed.

“I’ve been working in Antarctica on and off for 25 years and I’ve seen enormous differences. There’s been a decline in some penguin species and an increase in others, and they’ve been breeding in areas they’ve never been before. And, the retreating glaciers are calving more than we’ve ever seen before.”

When the two expeditioners first met by chance in 2016, in Alaska, Fålun Strøm recounted her life in Svalbard and told Sørby about her long-held dream of wintering in the middle of the wilderness she calls home. These conversations inspired them to draw up plans for the Svabard expedition.

Back at Bamsebu, an electric snowmobile is being un-loaded, followed by a drone. They’ll be used as equip-ment for taking water samples. The plan isn’t just to sit around under the northern lights looking out for polar bears. Fålun Strøm and Sørby want to help spread awareness about climate change and encourage others around the world to take action. To do that, they need to know what’s actually happening.

Each has a long and formidable history of expedi-tions, giving them a global network of contacts in the worlds of research, finance and art. Along with research-ers from a variety of institutions, they’ll be collecting data that can determine what’s happening in the ice. They’ll be taking water samples, for example. At the end of their stay, they’ll send them to Allison Cusick,

WHO THEY ARE AND WHAT THEY DO Sunniva Sørby

From: Tønsberg, Norway. Grew up and is based in Canada.

Occupation: Global Sales Director for the Antarctic tour operator Polar Latitudes. Lecturer and expedition leader.

Achievements: Member of the Women’s Expedition to Antarctica, 1992–1993. Expedition leader on the crossing of Greenland in 1999. Traveled the Sierra High ski route in 1996. Climbed Kilimanjaro five times. Ran eight marathons.

Hilde Fålun Strøm

From: Fjellhamar, Norway. Has lived in Svalbard for 24 years.

Occupation: Product Manager at Hurtigruten Svalbard.

Achievements: Meteoro-logical observer on Jan Mayen, a volcanic island in the Arctic Ocean, and Bear Island, the southernmost island in the Svalbard archi-pelago, 2013–14. Expedition leader on several ski and sailing trips around Svalbard and mainland Norway.

Sunniva Sørby and Hilde Fålum Strøm are adventurers with a passion for the Poles.

Strøm rolls in the provisions inpolar bear-proof barrels.

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Polar expedition

the lead scientist at FjordPhyto, a project collecting information on phytoplankton species found in the fjords of the West Antarctic Peninsula. Cusick’s focus is on phytoplankton – algae which comprise the base of the marine food web and play a key role in removing carbon dioxide from the air.

“I can see in the lab how phytoplankton change from autumn through winter and then into spring,” Cusick says. “We are looking into the polar night. Phytoplankton use sunlight for energy. But what happens at night, and through winter – that’s an area of research we don’t really know. The old thought is that nothing is going on, but research from 2015 here has shown that that’s not correct. There is a lot of biological activity taking place.”

Cusick adds that because the ice is melting so fast, it is also interesting to study how the influx of fresh water will influence the phytoplankton.

One of the other projects the two will be undertaking is observing the aurora borealis. The findings they gather from the northern lights will be reported to Elizabeth MacDonald, a NASA scientist who is also the founder of Aurorasaurus, a citizen science project where the public collects data on the visibility of the northern and southern lights and can access free alerts on sightings.

“Svalbard is a special place because here it’s possible to observe a special type of aurora borealis called cusp aurora,” MacDonald says. Even a few observations from Bamsebu in the dark of the polar night can help complement and extend our understanding of this rare

phenomenon. The Hearts in the Ice project can also enable unique interdisciplinary collaborations. For instance, it may be possible for phytoplankton to respond to the aurora. Sørby and Fålun Strøm will also be gathering information about polar bears and plastic in the ocean, as well as about birds and other animals. Beyond using their eyes and ears, they’ll be monitoring preprogrammed drones flying over the area. The data they provide will be linked with information from satellites in order to confirm the data collected by the satellites or to examine whether data collected at ground level by the drones can complement the satellite data.

Neither Fålun Strøm nor Sørby has a scientific background. The citizen research projects they’re now engaged in are important to them, though. “We want to contribute to the scientific work that’s being done,” Fålun Strøm says, and goes on to quote Albert Einstein: “‘I have no special talents. I am only passionately curious.’” The information she and Sørby collect won’t just become data for yet another paper. Their observations will be communicated from Bamsebu to schools all over the world via satellite.

“We want children to develop a personal relationship

CLIMATE CHANGE IN SVALBARD

Since 1971, Svalbard has experi-enced an increase of 7°C in aver-age winter temperatures.

The Arctic is warming twice as fast as the global average.

There’s been around 5% more precipitation in the Arctic in re-cent years than back in the 1950s.

Reduced snow cover is changing local vegetation.

Climate change has major conse-quences for humans, animals and ecosystems.

Source: Norwegian Polar Institute

‘We want children to develop a personal relationship with nature and help them to turn into citizen scientists’

The equipment is brought to land by rib boat.

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Polar expedition

with nature and help them to turn into citizen scientists,” Sørby adds. “If you can’t do that in your own backyard, then you won’t establish any relationship with nature.”

PREPARATIONS FOR SVALBARD began 25 or 30 years ago. During their many expeditions, the two learned to climb, ski, drive dogsleds, navigate, handle snow-mobiles, use weapons, hunt and fish. And for the past two years, both have prepared intensively, both physi-cally and mentally, for Bamsebu. There’s resilience in their footsteps, their hands are strong and their shoul-der muscles are visible even through several layers of warm clothing.

“We’ve been working on how to handle stress, how we communicate, what makes us sad and angry and what may happen,” Sørby says. “We’ve worked on how to be supportive of each other. Sometimes it can be better to let things go if we’re bubbling up inside. Our mental capacity fascinates me more than the physical.”

She adds, “We’re strong and capable women with lots of experience from the field.”

But they’re not too strong to forget that it’s hard leaving behind all the things that make them happy, in exchange for living lives involving a certain amount of risk, in a hut (built in 1930) with no water or electric-ity, and close to polar bears – which can be deadly to human beings.

A wife, mother of two and grandmother of three, Fålun Strøm notes that her grandchildren have a hab-it of changing in just six weeks, so she speculates that,

they’re going to change so much more by next summer.On board the ship that carried her and Sørby to

Bamsebu hangs a picture of the first woman trapper in Svalbard, Wanny Woldstad (1895–1959). Fascinated by the stories she’d heard about the islands in the north, this Tromsø taxi driver left her life and her children be-hind and headed north to Svalbard to follow her heart and become a trapper.

Has a similar call of adventure on the ice driven Fålun Strøm and Sørby to their current extreme expedition?

It was adventure that first attracted Fålun Strøm to Svalbard. “It’s been a magical journey so far. I’ve done lots of things I’ve wanted to do,” she says. She spent half a year on Bear Island (the southernmost island in the Svalbard ar-chipelago) and she’s been to Jan May-en (the volcanic island in the Arctic Ocean). She’s read extensively about the history of trapping, and ever since her first visit to Svalbard she “thought it would be fun to spend the winter here.”

“What makes me different from other people is that I’m living the dream. I like to look at things from a dif-ferent angle. People have more strength than they give themselves credit for.”

But their hearts are definitely in the ice. “We have to preserve our beautiful Svalbard,” Fålun

Strøm says.

THIS IS CITIZEN SCIENCECitizen science is an avenue for the general public to collect, analyze and share data, and make it available to management and research facilities. In Scandinavia, non-scientists have been utilizing mobile phone technol-ogy, in the form of apps or social media, to easily share their observa-tions with trained scientists. Source: Forskning.now

‘I like to look at things from a different angle. People have more strength than they give themselves credit for’

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Winter fun

Dump your skisTired of ski holidays? Looking for a change from standing in line for the lift and falling down steep

slopes this winter? Here are a couple of other ways of getting active without hitting the white stuff.

B y G U STAV K A R LS S O N

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Winter fun

hink of Norway and winter and chances are your mind will lead you to a pair of skis – either of the alpine or

cross-country variety. But there are many other facets to a Norwegian winter worth investigating in their own right.

One that more and more people are discovering is the fantastic winter fishing season along the Norwegian coast. Thanks to the warm Gulf Stream from the Atlantic, the coast is usually ice-free, which provides perfect conditions for deep sea fishing. Winter is also when fish tend to bite best in northern Norway. Lofoten has the world’s largest cod fisher-ies and hosts the World Cod Fishing Championships each year.

Whether you’re a beginner or an expe-rienced angler, there are plenty of guided fishing trips to choose from. And best of all, there’s a great chance you’ll end up having your picture taken with a really big catch.

FISHING TRIPS Find a fishing trip that suits

you, at havsfiskeguiden.se. The website is full of information about things to do and see in the area you’re going to, along the entire length of the Norwegian coast.havsfiskeguiden.se/fiskecamper

RENT A COTTAGE There are plenty of cottages

to rent in Lofoten, with a special mention for Hemmingodden, which has received excellent reviews from guests. You can also rent a boat if you want to head out to sea yourself.HemmingoddenOppsåttveien 10-12, Ballstadhemmingodden.no

BOOK A HOTEL If you prefer a bit of extra lux-

ury on your fishing holiday, there are numerous hotels in different price brackets all over Lofoten. Thon Hotel in Svolvær, for example, offers beautiful sea views, sea kayaks for rent and a fine cocktail bar.Thon Hotel Lofoten • Torget, Svolværthonhotels.no

Fishing guide to Norway Go to Tromsø or Bergen for the great catch. Read more at


WINTER FISHING IN NORTHERN NORWAY

TWhen it comes to accommodation, you

can either stay at a hotel or rent a cottage in one of the fishing villages and live like a local.

If not everyone in your family is keen on fishing for cod, there are plenty of oth-er activities to enjoy there. Simply going for a drive to admire the fantastic views along the fjords is an experience in itself, while walking, joining a whale safari or fishing for king crab are also available in the area.

And in the evening, there’s the added bonus of the chance to see the northern lights in the winter sky.

THIS WAY TO LOFOTEN

A round trip to Lofoten will cost you from 10,000

points. Taxes and fees apply from €24.

Book at flysas.com

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BUL_SAS_Serpenti_Still_SP.qxp_Layout 1 29.08.19 16:59 Seite 1


Winter fun

he Dutch are crazy about ice skating. At the 2019 World Speed Skating Championships, Dutch

skaters topped the medal table with eight golds, ahead of both the US and Czech Republic with just two each. And it’s not just competitive skating that gets orange hearts beating faster – skating for plea-sure is just as important, and it’s not un-common for workplace discussions around the water cooler to turn to how thick the ice is on the canals and lakes when winter really kicks in.

What adds a bit of extra excitement is that it’s not certain it will be cold enough. Unfortunately, there are no guarantees that winter in the Netherlands will chill sufficiently for natural ice to get thick enough to skate on the canals.

If you’re fortunate enough as a tourist to be in a place where the ice is safe enough to go skating it’s virtually a must to rent a pair of skates and head out.

In Amsterdam, many of the 165 canals run through the center of the city. If the ice is thick enough to go skating, the canals are closed to boat traffic. If not, the traditional option, a canal sightseeing trip to enjoy the city’s architecture and other sights worth seeing, is always a great alternative anyway.

And, if you’re out of luck, you arrive in the city, boots in hand, but the canals aren’t frozen. Don’t despair, as there are still plenty of opportunities to go skating on artificial ice. At Ice Amsterdam in Museumplein, you can demonstrate your skill on skates and admire the wonderful view of the Rijksmuseum at the same time. The outdoor rink is open from 16 November to 2 February this season.

Another alternative is the Jaap Eden ice rink, where you’ll probably have a bit more elbow room. It has a 400m track, an indoor rink and a beginners’ corner.

ARTIFICIAL ICE At Jaap Eden, you can go

skating in winter even if it’s not cold enough to skate on the canals.Jaap EdenRadioweg 64, Amsterdamjaapeden.nl

SKATE HIRE If you want to go out on the

canals but don’t have your own skates, you can rent a pair very easily. Waterman SportRadioweg 64, Amsterdam watermansport.nl/verhuur

T

CANAL SKATING IN AMSTERDAM

Foodie haven Find top picks for a tasty Amsterdam experience

at scandinaviantraveler.com

THIS WAY TO AMSTERDAM

A round trip to Amsterdam will cost you

from 30,000 points. Taxes and fees apply

from €30.Book at flysas.com

If the ice is thick enough for skating, the canals are closed to traffic

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What’s not to love about Valais?

ADVERTORIAL

WINTER IN SWITZERLAND

Skiing in Zermatt - perfect by nature. Photo: ©Pascal Gertschen 2018

The mythical Mont-Fort.Photo: ©Arolle

Touring tracks in Nendaz.Photo: ©Etienne Bornet

So many hiking possibilitiesin Crans-Montana, with or without snowshoes.Photo: ©Olivier Maire

Valais_2 sidor_ScandinavienTraveler.indd 2 2019-10-09 10:05

BE THE FIRST UP ON the pistes to make the veryfirst tracks in the groomed snow! After enjoy-ing sunrise and dream conditions with the slopes all to yourself, take your time over a good breakfast. This deal is on offer in Zermatt, Saas-Fee, Aletsch Arena, Crans-Montana and Morgins. It is well worth setting your alarm clock a little earlier than usual! On a Ski Safari, you set off to explore a new Valais ski area every day. Your accommodation is centrally located down in the main Rhône valley and allows you to easily reach your cho-sen destinations. Ski Safari packages give you access to all the ski pistes in Valais – all you have to do is pick and choose. Enjoy a traditional fondue at dusk in the scenic mountain world of the Rothorn. After a cosy dinner, embark on a romantic moonlight descent towards Zermatt. The piste patrol ensures your safety while you glide down the slopes on skis or snowboard and enjoying the evening mood with a view of the Matterhorn. A PERFECT SKI DAY IN ZERMATT

In Zermatt, every ski day has the potential to become perfect. Use our inspiring tips to create your perfect ski day. Matterhorn ski paradise has 36 km of freeride slopes waiting to be explored. These are off-piste slopes with yellow markings. Markings that also tell you you’re safe from all the mountain dangers. The yellow slopes are located on Rothorn (3,103 m), Stock-horn (3,532 m) and Schwarzsee (2,583 m). Athletic skiers can carve their first turns on freshly groomed slopes. The First Track event gives you access to the ski slopes before their scheduled official opening. Ski enthusiasts will make use of the The Sunnegga Express to get the most perfect view of the Matterhorn. Sun-negga is also the gateway to the sunny pistes of Rothorn. Right underneath Sunnegga you will find the Wolli Park, a sheltered spot where snow enthusiasts of all ages learn to ski. Gornergrat/Riffelberg is another perfect spot for the whole family. While the youngest are challenging the beginner’s park at Riffel-berg, the extensive and pleasant slopes around Gornergrat welcome the experienced skiers. The setting is reassuring and relaxing, with views bound to take your breath away. After a long day on the slopes, enjoy a traditional fondue at dusk immersed in the snowy world of the Matterhorn.

CRANS-MONTANA – CERTIFIED FOR FAMILIES

Crans-Montana is an ideal place to spend great holidays. Both young and old will find what they are looking for amongst the many activi-ties on offer year-round. Bibi’s House welcomes the youngest family members, with plenty of entertainment, games and laughter. In winter, the golf course is transformed into an island of leisure activities. Apart from skiing, Crans-Montana proposes several ways to enjoy winter and snow. Many paths await walkers and families, from short walks in the resort to more remote excursions at altitude. The Aminona region, a paradise for wild life, is known for particu-larly magical hikes with stunning views of the mythical alpine peaks.

EXPERIENCE NENDAZ TOURING TRACKS

The Mont-Fort, with its altitude of 3 330 metres, represents the culminating point of the ski area in Nendaz. Accessible by cablecar, it offers one of the most beautiful panoramas of the Alps, with a magnificent view of famous mountains such as the Mont-Blanc and the Matterhorn. Advanced skiers venture down the impressive classified black piste. While some love to hurtle down the snow-covered slopes, others have just as much pleasure in skiing uphill. Nendaz offers 4 ski touring itineraries, divided into two levels of difficulty (blue and red), one starting from Haute-Nendaz and three from Siviez. ✦

nendaz.ch | crans-montana.ch | zermatt.chvisitvalais.ch/winter

ADVERTORIAL

Valais is the place where powder covered summits frame a clear blue sky and living traditions meet ultramodern

comfort. Thanks to its spectacular location, Valais is home to more than 40 ski areas with over 2,000 kilometers of slopes.

TEXT: SOFIE LUNDMARK


“Athletic skiers can carve their first turns on freshly groomed slopes.

The First Track event gives you access to the ski slopes

before their scheduled official opening.”

AROSA LENZERHEIDE

Train transfer: Zürich – Arosa, 3h.

Zürich – Lenzerheide, 2.5h.

Public Transportation: included in the ski pass Chur-Arosa/Lenzerheide

Altitude Arosa: 1800 masl

Altitude Lenzerheide: 1500 masl

Crans-Montana is a certified ”Family Destination”Photo: © CMTC Luciano Miglionico


What’s not to love about Valais?

ADVERTORIAL


Skiing in Zermatt - perfect by nature. Photo: ©Pascal Gertschen 2018

The mythical Mont-Fort.Photo: ©Arolle

Touring tracks in Nendaz.Photo: ©Etienne Bornet

So many hiking possibilitiesin Crans-Montana, with or without snowshoes.Photo: ©Olivier Maire



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Sofie Gidlund, Evelina Nilsson, Kajsa Larsson and Hedwig Wessel discuss route options.


Verbier

ff-piste skiing has always been part of the DNA of the Swiss ski resort of Verbier. For many years, everyone, from beginners to pure freeriders, have made their way

here to sate their appetite for powder, and the resort has something to suit all. Verbier is also home to ISTA, the International Snow Training Academy, which has offered basic courses in off-piste safety for the past four years. We joined one of their weekend courses to learn more.

Sofie Gidlund, Hedvig Wessel, Kajsa Larsson and Evelina Nilsson are all full-time skiers, either already professional or on the road to becoming so. With roles in major ski videos and high rankings on the Freeride World Tour, they can all be called experienced and highly skilled skiers. But does this automatically mean they’re very knowledgeable about avalanches and oth-er dangers in the mountains? Nilsson isn’t convinced.

“You learn a great deal by spending time in the moun-tains. The most important thing I’ve learned is to listen to my intuition and dare to speak up when I get a feeling about something. Communication is incredibly import-ant. We all know that the more we practice, the better we become. Safety in the mountains is something we all want to be good at, as we spend so much time there. Training, repetition and staying updated on avalanche knowledge and sharing this wisdom is part of the fun.”

Courses to increase your knowledge about off-piste skiing aren’t just for beginners, they’re something ev-eryone can benefit from. This cannot be emphasized too much. Xavier De Le Rue, one of the most success-ful snowboarders of all time, gives his take on the ISTA programs.

“In the mountains a situation can rapidly change from wonderful to life-threatening, which is why these courses are so important. ISTA has a good way of teach-ing the knowledge you need to stay on the wonderful side of the spectrum.”

Off-piste skiing has become an increasingly popular pastime. However, this brings greater responsibility with it, and a certain amount of knowledge is important when you head for the pow-der. Verbier in Switzerland justifies its reputation as one of the best off-piste destinations in the world. We head there to find out more.

O

On course, off-piste

B y J O H A N J O N S S O NP h o t o s b y A N TO N E N E R LÖV

Off-piste heaven What’s to love about Riks-gränsen? Find out at



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Sofie Gidlund, the member of the gang with the least experience on big mountains, is pleased to spend time in the mountains with skiers more experienced than herself.

“It’s been fantastic fun to share thoughts, lessons and knowledge with the other girls and guides from ISTA. I retired from competitive alpine skiing two seasons ago and there’s a massive contrast between thinking safety during a course and on a big mountain. The conditions on the mountains change from day to day and from place to place, which is why it’s important to have dif-ferent kinds of knowledge. The various different ISTA courses therefore give you a perfect kickstart, even if you’ve taken other avalanche courses and have done a lot of training, or if you’re a complete beginner and don’t know anything about off-piste skiing.”

ONE OF THE most important lessons from ISTA courses is that the focus shouldn’t be about how you use your av-alanche equipment (see fact box), but about not getting into a situation where you need to use it. If we go back to learning to drive, it’s obviously more important not to drive too fast for the road conditions than to know how to get out of a skid when things have gone wrong.

But no matter how keen you are to avoid an accident, they can happen and then it’s vital to know exactly how your equipment works. Hedvig Wessel is a Norwegian Olympic freestyle skier who’s switched to freeriding.

“The most important procedure ISTA communi-cates is firstly to observe the situation and try to get

NEVER SKI ALONE If you were to get caught in an ava-

lanche or suffer an injury off-piste, time is the most important factor, along with ski companions. Plus, it’s much more fun to ski with other people.

Off-piste, on pointBefore heading out beyond the groomed slopes, you need to make a few safety checks. Here are five basic tips from certified mountain guide, Yann Décaillet.

ALWAYS BRING THE RIGHT AVALANCHE EQUIPMENT

An avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe are essentials you should always take with you when skiing off-piste. The transceiver should be switched on all day (“On at the car, off at the bar,” as the Americans say) and worn close to the body, at least 20cm from a cellphone. It’s incredibly important that you know how your avalanche transceiver works in an emergency situation. The shovel should be made of metal and strong enough to clear heavy and hardened snow quickly. The probe, which you use to locate someone buried in an avalanche, should be at least 2m long.

Mountain guide Yann Décaillet giving some good advice.

I l l u s t r a t i o n s b y E M M A H A N Q U I ST


Verbier

your bearings if someone is about to be buried by snow, and to remember the last location the person was visi-ble. You should then call the emergency phone number and make your way towards the person buried. Change your avalanche transceiver to “search” and remember to keep your phone away from it, or turned off, as it can risk interfering with the signals.

When you have determined the closest distance to the victim, pinpoint the location and perform a fine search with the probe until you get a hit and sense the person buried. Let the probe stay there, and depend-ing on how deep the person is buried, move a bit back-wards to avoid digging straight down. The actual dig-ging is heavy and time-consuming work, and it is very important you do it right. When you have found the person, check that their airways are clear and that they are breathing, other wise perform CPR. It’s important that you’re able to do all the above without thinking, so practice it so that it all comes naturally.”

Preparation, avoidance and rescue actions are good to learn, but the most important thing is always to focus on the reason why we’re in the mountains – for the ski-ing. Lying awake at night worrying about all the terrible scenarios that can happen does nobody any good, so learn how to avoid the dangers instead, and in so doing, be able to have more fun in the powder.

Some people may say “ignorance is bliss” but when you’re out in the mountains, that’s no way to think. Out there, you must have the knowledge to be able to make

‘In the adrenalin rush, it’s easy to forget where you actually are. It’s all about always staying one step ahead and keeping a cool head’

KEEP AN EYE ON THE CONDITIONS AND WHERE YOU ARE

Reading avalanche reports each morn-ing is a good way to get an idea of the cur-rent conditions. The reports tell you where possible dangers lurk and help you choose the right places to ski on that par-ticular day. Sometimes, west-facing slopes are good to avoid while east- facing slopes may possibly have both powder and stable conditions. The choice is then simple. But you still need to know where you are. Never leave it to chance. Following tracks often works, but not always.

HIRE A MOUNTAIN GUIDE Having a guide is the best way to help

you stay safe off-piste while their local knowledge also guarantees the best ski-ing, which means you can relax and focus entirely on enjoying yourself. A win/win. Don’t forget to ask about anything you’re wondering about – why are we stopping here in particular? Why did we ski on this side? How can I get better at reading na-ture’s signs? There’s no such thing as a silly question so take the opportunity to learn more while you’re out in the snow.

NEVER BE AFRAID TO SAY NO On many occasions, peer pressure and

fear of missing a good powder run have resulted in potentially risky decisions being made. Off-piste skiing is fantastic, but no run is worth risking life and limb for. Going back is never a wrong decision.

Dominique Perret, freeski legend and founder of ISTA, sharing his experience on the course.


Verbier

your way around safely. Otherwise, it’s best to stay on the marked slopes. Kajsa Larsson, who has spent many seasons in both the Alps and Canada, lives for skiing, but she’s seen some horror stories off-piste.

“I love to come out of my comfort zone, hike high up in the mountains, go for long powder runs and feel the presence of nature. But in the adrenaline rush, it’s easy to forget where you actually are. It’s all about al-ways staying one step ahead and keeping a cool head. I was fortunate that I was able to learn from people who were better than me. At first, I thought mostly about snow layers and the danger of an avalanche, but now I’ve learnt that it’s the big picture that counts. Every parameter is important when you ski off-piste and to keep check of all of them, you need experience and to continually learn from skiers better than you.”

The course in Verbier was a perfect combination of theory and practice, and in exactly the right en-vironment. It’s far better to teach knowledge about mountains when you’re in the mountains. Obviously, a classroom- based course can be of benefit, but to be able to combine dialogue with practice at the same time, to be able to apply the lessons you have learnt, makes everything better and more effective.

MM Rapaport Hargin

MM Rapaport Hargin is a foundation in memory of Matilda Rapaport, the elite Swedish skier who passed away in 2016 in an avalanche accident in Chile. The foundation strives to improve gender equality within and outside of skiing, and raise awareness about safety on the mountains. This event, where four pro-fessional female skiers spent two days in Verbier with mountain guides from ISTA was in support of the foundation.rapaporthargin.com

‘Verbier in Switzerland justifies its reputation as one of the best off-piste destinations in the world’

The basic equipment: Avalanche transceiver, backpack with shovel and probe, RECCO reflector.

Hedwig Wessel enjoys another off-piste powder day.

THIS WAY TO VERBIER

A round trip to Verbier will cost you from

30,000 points. Taxes and fees apply from €30.

Book at flysas.com

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fresh from the goldsmith’s workbench: ring with matched pair of brilliant cutdiamonds crafted in 18 karat gold.

prices from dkk 16,000.

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1264 copenhagen k+45 50545464

www.arnbymejlvang.com


Verbier

at home, the chances are the menu will make you stay longer than you planned!Rue de Médran 70, 1936 Bagnesarcticjuicecafe.com

PUB MONT FORT4 Pub Mont Fort is the après in

Verbier. There’s great casual food, but the focus here is on the drinks. Their terrace offers a magical atmosphere, especially after mid-season when the sun is getting stronger with great sunset light for that after-ski beer.Chemin de la Tinte 10, Bagnespubmontfort.com

FARINET Not sure if you want the mega

après or something calmer? This is the place you’re looking for. When the beer motivation is there, Farinet’s après has made its name over the last decades

with great concerts and the whole craziness you might want after a great day on the moun-tain. But if you’re looking for something more relaxed, the lounge side offers what might just be the best cocktails in Ver-bier. If you’re staying at their ho-tel, you’ve got a short way home if the drinks are too good.Place Centrale 6, Bagneshotelfarinet.com

MONT GELÉ Mont Gelé, a great freeriding

area where you can reach all four aspects and often find good snow no matter where the wind and sun hit the mountain. There’s something for almost every freerider here, and you have quick access to amazing terrain. Banana is the most fa-mous run on Mont Gelé – for a reason!Top of Mont Fort gondola

HIDDEN GEMS AND MUST DO’S IN VERBIERXavier De Le Rue has toured the world on his snowboard on several Freeride World Tours. Nowadays he lives in Verbier. Here’s his guide to help make the most of your time in his hometown, both on and off the slopes.

B y J O H A N J O N S S O N P h o t o s b y A N TO N E N E R LÖV

CHEZ DANY Chez Dany has the best view

in Verbier. It’s on the edge of the slopes, but also accessible by car or on foot. Great blend of casual food and higher end cui-sine, all made from local ingredi-ents. Works just as well for a drink or a meal while skiing, as a late dinner with friends. Definite-ly not one to miss!Hameau de Clambin 10, Bagneschezdany.ch

LE SHED1 Le Shed offers the best burg-

ers in town and a lot more! Great Swedish vibe and high quality no-fuss food. Every detail is tak-en care of and the easygoing but stylish atmosphere makes it a great spot for a casual dinner.Rue de Médran 5, Bagnesleshed.ch

LE BOIS SAUVAGE If you’re a very experienced

off-piste skier (or are skiing with a guide) there’s an amazing run that brings you from the top of Siviez, Nendaz to the bottom of the Val d’Heremence, 1,300m farther down. When arriving in the valley, call the restaurant and they come and pick you up. Five minutes later you’re at the table, ordering delicious food from a team that is passionate about seasonality and sustain-ability. This is my choice for a romantic birthday lunch.Chemin des Mélèzes 26, Hérémenceleboissauvage.ch

W2 If you’re looking for a hotel of

the highest standard in a classic package and don’t mind paying for it, then the W is the place to stay. Restaurants, spa, meeting rooms and a very good location just next to the lift. There’s not much more you can ask for!Rue de Médran 70, Bagnesmarriott.com

ARCTIC JUICE & CAFÉ3 Next to the legendary W you’ll

find Verbier’s best coffee. You can get a great, fresh meal here, but if you’re in a rush we recom-mend the juices that score high on the OMG-scale. Located just next to the lift for those who didn’t have time to eat breakfast

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Skiing gadgets

Get the gearEach year brings a plethora of new gear

and gadgets for winter sports lovers. Here are a few ideas to help you stay

stylish and safe on the slopes.

Pho

to: M

att P

et/U

nspl

ash


LOKATT HELMET1 This environmentally friendly

helmet from Swedish specialist Lokatt is made of renewable high-tech materials originating from plants, yet still provides im-pressive strength, weight and impact absorption.lokatthelmets.se

MAMMUT AIRBAG2 As ski touring and freeriding

have become ever more popu-lar, so too has the use of ava-lanche airbag backpacks. This clever device will help you rise above the surface during a snowslide and, along with other essentials, should be a great help in emergency situations. mammut.com

ANTIFOG GOGGLES 3 These Abom goggles have a

built-in defroster sandwiched between two lenses, powered by a rechargeable battery that lasts up to six hours. abom.com

CARV SKI TRACKER4 This clever app connects

wirelessly to inserts in your boots and by crunching the data it comes up with ways of helping you improve your style by using over 35 different metrics. getcarv.com

PHOOZY THERMAL PHONE WARMER CASE

5 Using NASA-inspired materi-als, your smartphone remains warm enough to preserve the battery and receives an extra layer of insulation from any un-fortunate impacts.phoozy.com

AVALANCHE BEACON6 The Black Diamond BT is an

industry leader, offering a wide range and an auto antenna switch that adjusts to send the best possible signal. blackdiamondequipment.com

EARBUDS JABRA ELITE ACTIVE 65T

7 These comfortable wireless earbuds sit firmly in your ears and offer battery duration of up to five hours. jabra.com

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Jens Reidar Larsen travels to Cognac.

Jens Reidar Larsen starts the firm

J.R. Larsen & Co.

Prohibition in Scandinavia. Cognac

is exported for medical use.

The road less travelled is the road that yields the greatest rewards. It’s an idea that followed the Larsen family crest as we’ve forged oceans and traversed mountains to distill our cognac. Combining the experience and the wisdom of maturity with the spirit of the modern explorer, Larsen is about getting off the beaten track and forging our own way ahead. It’s a prevailing tendency to uncover uncharted territories that put Jens Reidar Larsen on a ship destined for the new world in 1926. When he arrived in France, the Americas had to wait and the sense for adventure led him on the road to Cognac where romance and a thirst for knowledge encouraged his next quest, dist- illing the region’s famous elixir. Our Cognac is about the explorer; it’s about new frontiers and breaking off from the beaten path. Imbued with the spirit of those legendary Norwegian explorers and distilled down to the experiences of their modern counterparts, we like to think that the Larsen name carries on the traditions set forth by our ancestors. We don’t explore a mountain to find what lies on top of the mountain, but rather to uncover something new about ourselves. The reward at the top is a realization, a truth, and a thirst, satisfied. Every mountain and ravine we forge strengthens our resolve and it’s reflected in every sip we savor at the edge of each precipice. Every new adventure is a revelation informing every aspect of a life lived to its fullest. As we traverse plains, scale mountains, and forge rivers every part of the explorer’s being is perfect harmony with the present. You cannot escape the force of the here and the now and on longer expeditions every step and every encounter is a meditative experience, extending the present into eternity.

: ekornactual : larsencognac : cognac-larsen.fr

Larsen Cognac becomes the biggest

Cognac supplier in Norway and Scandinavia.

Jens Reidar is awarded the Order of St. Olav's knight

1st class, 1st of January.

Larsen Cognac is the first Cognac house to

launch its own Cognac in Svalbard.

Follow Larsen Cognac and Mathias s explorations

Mathias EkornåsExplorer

The most expensive bottle in Larsen's

history is being sold at auction for 20.000€.

Launches brand new design on the traditional Cognac

bottles VS-VSOP-XO.

“ My secret,” says Mathias “ is to keep a bottle hidden in your backpack until you’ve reached your destination."

The woes of the past and the anxieties of the future simply drift away in a glass of Cognac when we reach our destination. The crude symbols of a modern society, a bank account or a passport cease to define us as we continue to ascend on our unique path one step at a time. The adventurous spirit lives in us all, and you don’t need to climb Everest or dive to the depths of the Mariana Trench to satisfy that spirit. It can be achieved in lonely walks in the countryside, strolling an empty beach or finding solace on an open hill. The world beckons at your doorstep, and wherever your journey may take you, the spirit of exploration awaits you in every drop of Larsen Cognac.


Turin

Storms creep in over the Aosta Valley at the foot of the Mont Blanc massif.

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GOLD In the Piemonte and Aosta regions in the northwest corner of Italy, sit some of Europe’s oldest ski resorts. For 200 years, mountaineers, royalty and tourists have come to this part of the Alps to experience its dramatic nature, luxuriate in healthy springs or engage in winter sports.

B y K A R I N L I N DA H L P h o t o s b y M AT T I A S F R E D R I KS S O N

White


Turin

he villages of La Via Lattea and the Aosta Valley now house modern hotel facili-ties and ski networks, but

the tides of time are still all around, among cobbled streets and older build-ings. And the neighborhoods offer more than just skiing. There’s a tempting range of food and culture here, in the form of restaurants, pubs and specialty museums.

The area of La Via Lattea, which con-sists of six ski resorts, extends across the French border. Claviere on the Italian side shares lift systems with France’s Montgenèvre and many tourists move back and forth between the resorts.

Courmayeur, the gem of the Aosta Valley, similarly has a “sister village” in the form of Chamonix in France, which you reach through the Mont Blanc tunnel

or via a tour with a guide over the moun-tain massif.

With a transfer time of about 90 minutes from Turin airport, now you can quickly and easily reach all of these French and Italian alpine villages. For families with children, Montgenèvre is an attractive option with its wide range of activities, while experienced skiers tend to head for Courmayeur and beginners perhaps feel more at home in Claviere.

T

COURMAYEUR At the foot of Mont Blanc, (or Monte Bianco as the

Italians call it), lies this splendid, classic ski resort. Surrounded by high peaks and glaciers, it’s a real favorite among professionals. If you’re looking to challenge your-self, take the cable car from La Palaud, 2.5km north of Courmayeur, up to Punte Hellbronner (3,462m above sea level) and work your way through the Mont Blanc massif with a guide. The tour, which takes about five hours, is best ended with a beer in Chamonix, before your return by bus back through the tunnel under the mountain.

Outside of the snowy season, Courmayeur is a re-nowned center for hiking and climbing, and you can find out about many of the famous mountain expeditions from around the turn of the last century at the little Museo Alpino Duca degli Abruzzi.

Courmayeur also has a rich nightlife, with many bars, cafes and nightclubs along the main street. For those after a serious after-ski, this is a safe bet.

Retired cable car in Courmayeur.

Courmayeur is one of the oldest ski resorts in the Alps.

Need an ’Alping hand? Read our guide to skiing in the Alps at


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THIS WAY TO TURIN

SAS flies direct to Turin from Copenhagen and offers connecting flights from other cities in Scandinavia.


member, you earn points when you fly on SAS, Star Alliance and partners. A round trip to Turin will earn you up to 2,000 points in SAS Go.


trip from Scandi-navia to Turin from 30,000 points in SAS Go.Taxes and fees apply from €30.




After a long day on the Italian slopes, there’s nothing to rival a freshly baked pizza.

High above Courmayeur, which is nestled down in the valley. With the help of a guide, you can ski on the mountain massif between Courmayeur and Chamonix.


Turin

MONTGENÈVRE Renowned for its reliable supply of snow and

sun, Montgenèvre has long been known as the family-friendly option in the La Via Lattea area. In addition to its wide range of slopes of varying difficulty, there’s also a skating rink, a popular snowboard park and a snow garden for children. The recently built Durancia Spa is beautifully situated and offers breathtaking mountain views. Here you can swim outdoors even when the landscape around is covered in snow, while if you fancy taking a longer excur-sion, the late 19th century Fort du Mont Chaberton, one of Europe’s highest forts, is well worth a visit.

Montgenèvre at 1,900m is one of the ski resorts in the French Alps with a high probability of snow.


CLAVIERE The more relaxed Claviere suits anyone look-

ing for a more quiet breath of nature during the ski season. Here, the slopes cut through varied landscapes with deep forests and open views. For those who want a break from the slopes, there are also some 35km of cross-country tracks. Claviere is renowned for its ski school which offers courses for beginners and children, and the majority of the slopes here are light to medium in terms of difficulty.

At the resort, you’ll find the best pizza at At Kilt Ristorante, while Golf Club Claviere, with its classic Italian cuisine is also worth a visit. A Via Lattea lift pass gives you access to Sestriere, Sauxe d’Oulx, Sansicario, Cesana and Montgenevre, the neighboring French village, just 2km away.

Canadian skier Chad Sayers enjoys pristine powder between Claviere and Montgenèvre. In the back-ground, 3,841m Monte Viso is the highest peak in the area.

High above Claviere, professional skier Henrik Windstedt leaves the pass between Claviere and Montgenèvre on the French side behind him.

No other ski areas in Europe

have the diversity of the

Austrian Tirol. They range

from picturesque chocolate-box

villages with a handful of lifts

to world-class ski hubs that offer

hundreds of linked kilometres

of skiing for all standards.

Whichever you choose, you can

be sure of a warm welcome,

expert ski instruction and

friendly childcare, along with

delicious cuisine. The choice of

where to stay ranges from the

simplest B&B to modern self-

catering apartments, family-

run pensions, and luxury hotels

with international reputations.

PillerseeTal

Internationally, the best-known resorts in

this area are Waidring and Fieberbrunn, but

Hochfilzen, St. Jakob in Haus, and St. Ulrich

am Pillersee also have a lot to offer visitors.

The region is renowned not only for its alpine

skiing but also for the cross-country and

biathlon that take place along the valley floor.

Buchensteinwand at St Jakob is a friendly ski

area that should keep the whole family happy.

The Pletzi-Bär-Kinderpark nursery area

provides little ones with a fun introduction to

skiing while they are supervised by first-rate

instructors. The 20 km of pistes served by

eight lifts will keep parents happy too. This is

the top corner of the Tirol for snow-cover.

Just a few kilometres away lies the bigger

and more challenging Steinplatte Waidring –

Winklmoosalm, in what’s known as the

Border Triangle of Tirol, Salzburgerland,

and Bavaria. It has 42 km of groomed runs

and a renowned snow park featuring the

Triassic Fun Line, which at 1.5 km is the

longest in Austria.

The skipass alliance has 408 km of piste,

including Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang

Fieberbrunn ski circuit, Schmittenhöhe in

Zell am See, Kitzsteinhorn Kaprun. This

connects Tirol to the Salzburger Land. The

area is spacious, diverse, modern, sporty and

casual. And with its numerous snow parks,

freeriding parks, floodlit slopes, ski movie

locations, speed courses and racetracks, it

is considered to be one of the most varied

skiing areas in Austria. Fieberbrunn’s motto

is “Easy up – wild down”, and this freeriding

hotspot certainly offers some fantastic

steep and deep descents. The best skiers go

up to the Wildseeloder at 2118 m. It’s a 70

degree slope at the top – so you almost take

off! It takes under a minute to descend to

the Wildalmen, which is a good 600 meters

drop in altitude. You can watch them at the

Freeride World Tour on 7

th

March.

Getting around: The Regiobus service that

travels up and down the valley is free with

a guest card. There’s also a train service

through the Kitzbüheler Alps that runs from

Hochfilzen to Wörgl.

Where to stay

For information on hotels and other

accommodation: www.pillerseetal.at

The resort

Kitzbühler Alpen – PillerseeTal

Dorfplatz 1, 6391 Fieberbrunn

[email protected], +43 5354-56304

Whether you choose alpine skiing or

cross-country, there is a wide variety of

activities in PillerseeTal.

· www.tyrol.com · 3 special places in Tirol

3 special places in Tirol

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Sölden

Sölden in the Ötztal is little more than an

hour’s drive from Innsbruck airport. Daniel

Craig fi lmed Spectre here for release back

in 2015, so the resort is now indelibly

associated with the slick and sophisticated

image of 007. Th is was the fi rst time a

James Bond movie was fi lmed in the Tirol,

even though author Ian Fleming lived in

Kitzbühel during the 1920s.

Th e resort’s skiing image is as impeccable

as that of the master spy. Th e Rettenbach

and Tiefenbach glaciers go up to a heady

3340 m and are among the best developed

in Austria. Th e resort is also home to some

exceptionally long runs. One of them, from

the Schwarze Schneid (3340 m) to the bottom

of the Gaislachkogl lift (1370 m) is 15 km

long and drops through a muscle-melting

1970 vertical metres.

Th e presence of the two glaciers here also

ensures guaranteed snow-cover for much of

the year. Skiing continues outside the main

winter months and the fi rst European races

of the FIS Word Cup are here each autumn.

Th is year, they will take place from October

25 to 27. From mid of November, all 31 lifts

will be in action, with an uphill capacity of

70,000 skiers per hour.

144 km of pistes cater for

everyone from complete

beginners to experts.

Some 30 huts and restaurants off er

everything from a beer to a gourmet lunch.

iceQ on the Gaislachkogl (up at 3058 m) is the

most famous of these. If the impressive glass

cube looks familiar, that’s because it featured

as the Hoffl er Klinik in Spectre. Nearby is

also the setting for 007 Elements, a series of

galleries and tunnels inside the mountain

with movie and interactive displays dedicated

to the world of James Bond.

Th ere’s also a new gondola opening for this

winter and linking Hochsölden with Rotkogl,

replacing the old chair-lift. Passengers can

now reach the Giggijoch ski area in under

six minutes. Skiing and 007 apart, Sölden is

essentially a party town with a vibrant après-

ski culture. It is also home to music festivals,

including the Electric Mountain Festival

which takes place at the beginning of April.

Getting there: there are regular international

fl ights to Innsbruck. Trains take you to the

Öztal station at the entrance to the valley,

and there are taxis and buses to bring you to

Sölden.

Where to stay


accommodation: booking.soelden.com

The resort

Ötztal Tourism, Gemeindestraße 4,

6450 Sölden, [email protected]

+43 572 00-200

Hohe Salve

Hohe Salve is a mountain region at the heart

of one of the largest linked ski areas in

Austria. SkiWelt Wilder Kaiser – Brixental

has a mighty 284 km of groomed runs

served by 90 lifts. At the heart of it all is a

scenic 1828 m mountain dominated by the

pretty little chapel of St John, which dates

back to the 16

th

century. In summer it’s a

popular wedding venue.

From the adjacent mountain restaurant,

you have 360-degree views of 70 peaks of

3000 m or more. It’s the starting point for

some glorious descents down to the SkiWelt

villages of Söll and Itter, and more directly

to the market town of Hopfgarten. With its

18th-century twin-towered church, cobbled

alleyways and ancient stone buildings, the

town makes a delightful and convenient

base for a family holiday.

Th e Kids Club Hohe Salve accepts children

aged one to three years old and is located at

the main lift station, while there a choice of

two ski schools – Hopfgarten (www.skischule-

hopfgarten.at) and Alpin (www.skischule-

alpin.com) – for lessons for older children.

Th ere are nursery slopes on the edge of the

village, and easy pistes are reached from

the top lift station. Après-ski begins in the

mountain huts long before the lifts close for

the day and then continues into the evening

down in the resort.

Th e nearby village of Kelchsau provides

a more tranquil base in the Hohe Salve.

Its 16km of pistes are served by four lifts

and make an ideal family playground. Th e

village is also a popular centre for ski-

touring. If you are visiting the region, it’s

easy to explore further afi eld on skis. Th e

giant ski area includes the villages of Going,

Ellmau, Scheff au, Westendorf, and Brixen-

im-Th ale. With an extended lift pass, it’s

even possible to link from Westendorf to the

185km of skiing in the Kitzbühel area. But

fi rst a word of advice: distances are huge.

Make sure you allow enough time to return

to your accommodation before the lifts close

for the day.

Where to stay


accommodation: www.hohe-salve.com

The resort

Kitzbühler Alpen – holiday region

Hohe Salve, Innsbrucker Straße 1,

6300 Wörgl, [email protected],

+43 57507-7000

· www.tyrol.com · 3 special places in Tirol· www.tyrol.com· 3 special places in Tirol

Location and approach

D

ICH

A

PillerseeTal

Hohe Salve

Sölden

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Thea Mørk

Thea MørkBrunch lover Thea Mørk talks about life after her sports career and what it feels

like to watch handball on TV.

B y ØYST E I N T RO N STA D P h o t o s b y KY R R E L I E N

Let’s do brunch with


Thea Mørk

hen we enter Grådi, the local restaurant said to serve the best brunch in Oslo, Thea Mørk is already

seated. She arrived in good time and wan-dered around the Tøyen area of central Oslo. Her routines and what she does with her time have changed since she retired from handball in December 2018, after dedicating her life to the sport.

“My days are different. I have to use my head more, but I like that, although it can be a bit of a risk to be judged by what you have in your head rather than how much your body can take,” says Mørk, who’s studying for a Master’s degree in renew-able energy and also works for a planning company.

“These days I have to get up early, shower and be ready for work at 8am in business clothes. Which is a big differ-ence from putting on training gear, train-ing, showering and then eating and spending the day mainly taking it easy to be ready for the next training session.”

The restaurant we’re in, Grådi, is one of

W

Thea Mørk Age: 28 Lives: Oslo Career: Named on the All-Star team in seasons 2016/2017 and 2017/2018, short-listed for Young Player of the Year in the Champions League 2012 and shortlisted as left-winger of the year in the Champi-ons League 2016 and 2017.

many new good things that have ap-peared in Tøyen. We peruse the menu and eventually Mørk chooses toasted rye bread with mashed avocado. She loves brunch, almost as much as handball.

While the past few weeks have consist-ed of work and studying for Mørk, her twin sister Nora has been involved in the World Championship playoffs for Norway.

“I think we’re different from many oth-er siblings. We’ve never tried to be better than each other. Both want the other to do well. It was a bit strange when my team Larvik played against Györ and Nora. I really wanted us to win the match, but at the same time, I hoped that Nora would score as many goals as possible, so we would both be happy afterwards,” Mørk says as she sips a cappuccino.

Mørk began with handball at the age of five, together with her sisters Nora and Kaja. Now, many years later, Nora has signed for major club, CSM Bucuresti, while Kaja is a doctor.

“Nora and I have lived and played

‘It can be a bit of a risk to be judged by what you have in your head rather than how much your body can take’

GRÅDILocal restaurant in Tøyen that has quickly become a real talking point in Oslo since opening two years ago. Famous for its sharing menus at lunch, brunch and dinner. Think classic Norwegian with a gourmet twist, inspired by Latin America and Thailand. Sørligata 40graadi.dinesuperb.com

An Olympian effortRead about SAS’ extensive plans for Tokyo 2020, at



Thea Mørk

to start a new life,” Mørk says, adding that she has no regrets at all.

“I always dreamed of more, especially with the national team. But it’s better to sit on the sidelines now with my studies and my job and be with my family and partner, than sitting on my own in Copen-hagen injured and watching the others win. Handball ends at some point and life should go on.”

Norway and Nora Mørk are, as usual, among the favorites when the Handball World Championships start in Japan on 30 November. For the first time in many years, they’re neither World, European nor Olympic titleholders. Mørk feels Norway will regain their throne quickly, even though Russia and France both have very strong teams. She personally will enjoy being a spectator.

“I should be able to be happy enough watching. It was my decision and I have to accept it. Plus I’ve started to eat a bit more naughtily now, some sinfully delicious, deadly dangerous food.”

THEA MØRK’S BRUNCH FAVORITES IN COPENHAGEN

CAFÉ LIVINGSTONE In true Dr. Livingstone style,

Café Livingstone is inspired by over 40 years of travel to all cor-ners of the world. For brunch you choose from all the various dishes by ticking what you want on the menu. The food is served in cute bowls and fine plates, each a delicious portion, so you can genuinely taste a bit of ev-erything here. The café is by the lakes and it’s a place to take a step back, enjoy the sun, the views, the food and have a break from the busy streets.Sortedam Dossering 81cafelivingstone.dk

CAFE BARYL 1 When a café describes itself

in three words – “photogenic, organic food,” they raise your expectations. With a relaxed atmosphere, Baryl is a relatively anonymous presence in Østerbro and it’s easy to walk right past if you don’t know what you’re looking for. Lunch here is healthy and refreshing, plus it’s extremely Instagram-friendly.Århusgade 78baryl.dk

SIDECAR During the day, Nørrebro is a

popular destination for break-fast, lunch and brunch. In the evening, the restaurant is packed with Asian dishes. Mao-bao started in 2015 as a small street food adventure and even-tually took over the Sidecar Café at night. If you’ve never tasted bao, this is the place to do so. Skyttegade 5sidecarnoerrebro.dk

handball together for so long. She’s been the one who has pushed me, time after time. At the same time, I look up to Kaja and sometimes wonder whether I should have pursued some other career instead.”

She thinks out loud as she forks up the last bits of avocado.

“But I’m proud. Proud that I was lucky enough to go to Larvik, and of the first seasons in the Champions League as I managed to make my mark there. And I’m pleased and grateful that I was picked to play for Norway. That I was selected and traveled with the team, even though I had to go home again at once.”

After just five minutes on the court in her championship debut, the European Championships in France in December 2018, it was all over. Her body said no more, Mørk said no more.

“Kaja was the first person I called when I thought I couldn’t carry on playing. I had to ask her what life’s actually like without handball. Handball’s like being in a bubble and you can’t see opportunities in other places. It felt scary and uncertain

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Norway against Poland in Golden League.

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Thea Mørk

FROGNERPARKEN1 Here you’ll find Norway’s larg-

est rose collection with 150 dif-ferent kinds, surrounded by many different trees. The park is also home to a manor house, open air public baths and over 200 sculptures by artist Gustav Vigeland. There are so many wonderful green areas and parks in Oslo. I’ve gone running here many times, it’s also great for sightseeing as there is so much to see here.

Mørk was born in Oslo and it was here she first played handball at Bækkelagets Sportsklub. Since hanging up her boots, she’s had more time to explore what the city has to offer.

B y ØYST E I N T R O N STA D P h o t o s b y C L É M E N T M O R I N

Thea Mørk’s Oslo guide

MISS SOPHIE Here , next to the Foreign

Office building, appropriately enough, you get a bit of the world served on a plate. Miss Sophie is a well-traveled woman in the prime of her life and has been inspired by New York bars and romantic Paris trips. You can start or end your visit in the cocktail bar, and the art deco- style restaurant has plenty of gold, velvet and green plants.Henrik Ibsens gate 4misssophierestaurant.no

SÜDØST2 The former Aker Sparebank

is now an airy, beautiful space. There are two reasons behind Südøst’s success. Exciting and delicious Asian crossover cui-sine on the food front, plus one of the finest places to eat al fresco right on the Akerselva river. This is one of my favorite places to eat dinner in the sum-mer.Trondheimsveien 5 • sudost.no OSLO RAW

3 Tiril Refsum started the ca-tering firm RawFood in 2016 to offer healthier food. Armed with

healthy fats, proteins, minerals and vitamins, the concept proved a success and now in-cludes eateries, cook books, catering, workshops and events. This is another place I really like. It’s so appetizing and inviting.Ullevålsveien 82 • osloraw.no

EKEBERGPARKEN4 This is the second most

famous sculpture park in Oslo after Vigelandsparken, but with a completely different atmo-sphere. Here, you can stand in the place where Edvard Munch is said to have gained the inspi-ration to paint The Scream. If you’re hungry, you can eat at Ekeberg restauranten, a gour-met restaurant with spectacular views of the city, fjord and Holmenkollen. ekebergparken.com LINDØYA

Idyllic Lindøya has around 300 cabins in red, yellow and green. No more than a block away from the big city it’s a little holiday paradise. It has a coun-try store that opens in summer where you can buy a cup of coffee and ice cream.

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Why don’t passenger aircraft have outside cameras installed to let the pilots monitor flight controls, flaps and landing gear?Ingvald

Hi Ingvald,In general, there is no need for

installed cameras to monitor the aircraft’s flight controls, flaps and landing gear positions. All positions of an aircraft’s system are monitored and visually dis-played in the cockpit. We can easily see or get warnings if a position does not correspond to the requested position. If we are still uncertain about the position of the flaps and slats we are al-ways able to do a visual check from the cabin windows. For ex-ample, in the Airbus, there are small marks on the cabin walls notifying us where we will have the best unobstructed view of the leading edge and trailing edge of the wing (the front and back sections of the wings). For the landing gear, there are two independent systems to confirm

that the landing gear is down and locked. A visual check is not possible from the cabin win-dows, but if we’re still uncertain about the position we’re always able to get help from the air traf-fic control tower, which can visu-ally confirm the position of the landing gear before landing.

There are some aircraft with cameras installed – for example the giant Airbus A380 and our brand new A350. The camera is located at the top of the vertical stabilizer overlooking the air-craft. This camera is primarily used while on the ground when maneuvering the aircraft to and from the runway, to help pilots to stay clear of obstacles.

Alexander StensonFirst Officer

AviationAsk the pilot ⁄ People of SAS ⁄ Meet the fleet

If you also have a question about aviation, send it to [email protected] and look for the answer in an upcoming issue.

More aviation facts Read previously published questions and answers

at scandinaviantraveler.com

Ask the pilotHow fast can a plane actually fly? Does it always take the most straight forward route? Can you do a loop in one? And what does it take to actually fly one? The people with the answers are the SAS pilots.

Alexander Stenson Age: 33 Career: Multi-Crew Pilot License program at Lund University School of Aviation (Trafikflyghögskolan), Ljungby-hed. Flew Fokker 50 and the McDonnell Douglas MD80 at other airlines before joining SAS in 2014 on the Boeing 737.

Home base: Stockholm Arlanda Flies: Airbus A319, A320, A321 Flight hours: 5,000

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WiFi

A new WiFi eraMore SAS travelers than ever are enjoying WiFi onboard. But to outfit the entire short haul fleet takes time, for obvious reasons.

B y I DA M A D S E N - H EST M A N P h o t o s b y J O N A S M A L M ST RÖ M

hat are your reference points for the internet? Well, the same as if you were at home, or at work.

It’s 4G and soon 5G, obviously. Then sud-denly, you’re onboard an aircraft trying to reach and maintain the kind of network you’re used to, but at a speed of 850kmph and an altitude of around 40,000 feet. It goes without saying that that’s an incredi-bly tough ask.

Aviation engineer John Rune Skjeie has been installing WiFi in cabins since SAS’ first WiFi solution, almost nine years ago. He’s now busy fitting the new network solution being installed on SAS aircraft. The components are basically the same, but the new generation operates at a higher bandwidth and at a higher satellite frequency, meaning you can run much larger volumes of data over the satellite link. In other words, you should be able to upload a video to your Instagram account while simultaneously streaming a TV series without a problem.

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WiFi

“When we started with this system, we were a bit cautious. But I don’t think any-one experiences problems with band-width onboard these days,” says Skjeie.

IN FRONT OF us, engineers have start-ed work on the latest aircraft in the line. The majority of the 25 installed A320neos have been done in Oslo. As a rule, the aircraft arrive at the workshop at Gardermoen Airport on a Sunday evening to have their fuselage jacked up over the course of a night. This is where the an-tenna that’s in contact with the satellite is installed. The cover is mounted on the outside and looks a bit like a ski roof box.

“The antenna rotates as it should always point towards the satellite while the aircraft is flying – a bit like a compass needle. The satellite is North as it were,” says Production Line Manager, Kjetil Johansen.

Work begins on a Monday evening and by Wednesday, the final fine-tuning is completed.

“We estimate it takes five working days per aircraft, which adds up to around 850 working hours,” says Johansen.

But if anything takes time, it’s the new gadgets and widgets that must be in-stalled in an aircraft, according to Skjeie.

working hours per aircraft

850

“It takes longer in the aviation industry compared to other sectors because of the aircraft components. Testing and certifi-cation is a pretty extensive process to get a system approved for use onboard,” he says. “It’s also about the quality of the materials used. You can’t exactly install any cheap and solution you see on offer online.

“Here, everything is tested to the max, not least when it comes to security, to ensure it’s fully up to standard and that you can install it onboard,” says the engineer.

Once the components are approved as meeting flight standards, the next process is to install the system.

“And you can see what that entails,” says Skjeie, nodding toward the aircraft in the hangar.

“The process is nothing like when an electrician comes to your home, runs a cable along the wall and connects a socket. Here, we’ve got to go right into the wheel well of the aircraft to access places you don’t often see.”

DEVELOPMENT IN THE aviation indus-try has started to move far more rapidly as well and Skjeie is confident that the SAS network should be totally free from

‘The process is nothing like when an electrician comes to your home, runs a cable along the wall and connects a socket’

The devil’s in the details Find out more about how SAS’ inflight WiFi works at scandinaviantraveler.com

Aviation engineer John Rune Skjeie has been installing WiFi in SAS’ cabins for almost nine years.

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WiFi

Step-by-step:HOW TO GET CONNECTED ON SAS’ SHORT-HAUL FLIGHTSSAS has rolled out WiFi on many aircraft in its short-haul fleet. Follow these steps if you’re on a connected airplane. If you’re on an Intercontinental flight, please follow the connection instructions in the seat pocket.

WiFi costs DKr39, SKr/NKr49, €4.90. Free for travelers in SAS Plus, SAS Business and EuroBonus Diamond and Gold.

1 Activate WiFi on your device. Please keep your device in flight mode throughout the entire flight.

2 Connect to SASWIFI.

3 Open a web browser, enter the address sas.viasat.com and you’ll be redirected to our WiFi page.

4 Click Connect to WiFi and follow the instructions.

5 Log in with your booking reference, plus your first and last name. The booking reference consists of six characters (numbers and/or letters) and can be found on your boarding pass, e-ticket confirmation or under “My bookings” in the SAS App. EuroBonus members with Gold status or higher can also log in with the username and password used in their EuroBonus profile on SAS websites.

If you’d like to switch devices during the flight, you can reconnect at sas.viasat.com with the same login details that you used the first time you logged in. There is no need to disconnect your first device since it will automatically be disconnected when you log in on another device. Please note that you can only use one device at a time. You can browse the Scandinavian Traveler site free at all times.

blind spots when the second ViaSat-3 sat-ellite, aimed at Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA), will provide coverage across SAS routes, including the North Sea.

“We’re using a satellite over Europe that was never intended for aviation use,” he says.

This is why there’s no coverage when an aircraft flies over large expanses of water. This situation will be remedied when the new satellite is launched.

Getting a satellite up into orbit is no straightforward task, though.

“The timelines from satellite planning to launch have declined over the years. For Viasat, the cycle range is typically 3-5 years, depending on the satellite design, local and regional regulatory aspects, launch manifest availability, among other factors,” says Skjeie.

Even before the next Viasat satellite is launched, however, SAS flights have in-ternet access with a bandwidth similar to what you have at home.

“Previously, there was a limit of 10,000 feet to use internet onboard,” says Skjeie, “But when it works as well as it can, you can surf and stream high reso-lution TV series as soon as the cabin doors are closed. Totally problem-free.”

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Airbus A350

The unveiling of the A350 ushers in a new era not just for the environment and travelers, but

also for the people responsible for getting them to their destinations – the SAS pilots.

B y G EO F F M O RT I M O R E

Airbus A350 Welcome onboard!

SAS pilot Thomas Lunding familiarizes himself with the A350 controls before a test flight.


Airbus A350

ith its new livery and impressive sustainability statistics, the addition of the Airbus A350 to the SAS

fleet marks a step forward both on the inside and outside of the aircraft. As travelers, we may not fully appreciate everything about the development, but for the pilots in charge, having what amounts to a new state-of-the-art office brings a myriad of benefits to their jobs.

“As pilots, it means a lot to us that we’re working with the most modern, advanced technology on the market right now. Even though actually flying the plane isn’t that different to the A330, many of the chang-es have both direct and indirect benefits for us,” says Thomas Lunding, a long serving Swedish SAS pilot based in Copenhagen.

A cursory glance inside the impressive cockpit of the A350 reveals a step forward in terms of technology.

“The presentation of the systems and flight instruments is a big difference,” says Lunding. “The cockpit has a kind of space-age look on the A350, with six large TV screens that give us everything we need. All the older mechanical instru-ments are gone, so we now just have elec-tronic displays showing all the important information in a more efficient way. We no longer have to keep looking at differ-ent screens and we don’t need to move around to find the details we need,” the pilot adds.

Because the A350 is considered to be a variant of its predecessor, the A330, com-prehensive re-training isn’t necessary for the pilots. The new aircraft has a so-called common type rating, which is, in effect, a driver’s license for pilots, Lunding explains.

“If you want a comparison, a driver’s license covers Volvos, BMWs, whatever. In the same way, an A330 license covers the A350. There are, however, certain technical and maneuvering differences that need to be learned, so the authorities require pilots to have at least four days of basic technical training and four sessions

‘As pilots, it means a lot to us that we’re working with the most modern, advanced technology on the market right now’

in a flight simulator. Pilots also need to do two familiarization flights together with an experienced A350 pilot. Today, we’re three qualified A350 pilots at SAS – two are fleet chief pilots and one a flight in-structor – that have the full package of technical, practical and flight training ex-perience. Once we get our aircraft, we will continue training other pilots,” he adds.

On top of working on a modern, new aircraft that feels and looks fresh, pilots also appreciate the fact that they’re in

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Thomas LundingAge: 59Years as a pilot: 39 Years with SAS: 35Home base: Copen-hagen Family: Married with five grown up children.

AIRBUS A350 FACTS Number of aircraft: 8 Number of seats: 300 Engine: RR Trent XWB The

A350 lowers CO2 emissions by approximately 30% and reduces external noise footprint by up to 40% compared to previous generation aircraft.

Fuel consumption: 0.028 liters/seat km

Max. takeoff weight: 268 metric tons

Length: 66.9m Wingspan: 64.8m Cruising speed: 910kmph/

570 mph Range: 13,800km

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Airbus A350

What’s your role?I’m a flight attendant and cabin crew instructor, and I’m respon-sible for the implementation of an A350 training course that we all have to take. It’s not a huge adjustment for us from a work perspective as the A350 is very similar to the A330, it’s just a bigger and better version, I would say.

What are your initial thoughts on the new A350?The interior is a major improve-ment for us. The cabin pressure on these new aircraft is higher, which means the air inside is much less dry. That’s something passengers will experience too.

What other benefits are there for you?The fact that the aircraft is more roomy means we have more space to move around. Also, the galleys are slightly larger, espe-cially in the aft. Other features help too – the temperature is better thanks to the new floor panels. It is also more comfort-able having our rest compart-ment in the upper part of the air-craft, rather than on the passenger level.

Do you need to undergo special training for the A350?The A350 has the same fea-tures as the A330, so our sys-tems and safety procedures and so forth are mostly the same, but staff have to be in-formed about the differences with a video and online course

that we need to complete in combination with a follow-up exam.

How does it feel to be the first staff on a new aircraft?I get a great sense of pride knowing I’m one of the first peo-ple to be working on a new plane. It’s a privilege to work in an environment that feels so fresh and modern. It’s nice to see passengers’ reactions and hear their reflections. We’re proud to welcome everyone onboard!

A MATTER OF PRIDEFor those looking after the SAS travelers the introduction of the A350 offers many benefits. Bo Zachinelli, who works as a flight attendant and instructor, is more than pleased with what he’s seen so far.

charge of such a fuel-efficient, environ-mentally friendly vessel which, says Lunding, owes a lot to new technology that can provide a future blueprint.

“What really makes this aircraft stick out is the use of composite materials. Until now, planes have mostly been made of aluminum tubing, but driven by the need to reduce weight and hence reduce fuel usage, more and more composites are being used now, both in the wings and the fuselage,” he says.

There are other more subtle benefits, too, for the pilots on the A350, from hav-ing more space to move around, to the ease in which they can steer the aircraft thanks to more sophisticated computers driving the plane’s Flight Management System (FMS).

Meanwhile, the air pressure onboard the A350 is lower than others, which is an additional possible benefit, according to the pilot.

“On most aircraft, the cabin pressure means you’re at the equivalent height of a 2,400m-high mountain. On the A350, though, they’ve reduced that to one that’s just 1,800m. You may experience it, you may not, but there is a difference and as all our bodies react differently, it could help some people with the effects of jet lag.”

FEEL AT HOME AWAY FROM HOME.

There is no place like home, but Scandic is pretty close. Just ask the business traveler whofinished his busy meeting schedule with the most important meeting of the day, the one thatended with good night – in his hotel room, reading a bedtime story to his son back home,

via Skype. Your stories are part of our story, and that makes us who we are.

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Airports

onveniently placed on the border, Scandinavian Mountains Airport opens this winter to serve the re

sorts of Trysil and Sälen, and making the region’s largest ski area easily accessible, and not just from other parts of Scandinavia but also from the UK. The nearest resort, Hundfjället/Tandådalen, is only a nineminute drive away, and if you travel a little farther, you’ll reach the other resorts in the Swedish Sälenfjällen region – Stöten, Kläppen, Lindvallen and Högfjället. Just over the border, meanwhile, lies Norway’s largest ski resort, Trysil.

The airport opens its doors this Christmas, when SAS will start operating three international routes to Sälen from London, Copenhagen and Aalborg.

“The international market provides the region with the greatest opportunity for growth,” says Gunnar Lenman, CEO of Scandinavian Mountains Airport. “So having an airport here with direct SAS routes from Europe is ideal.”

Scandinavian Mountains Airport is the first new one of its kind to be opened in

Into the heart of the action Scandinavian Mountains Airport on the Swedish/Norwegian border will enable skiers to hit the slopes just 15 minutes after their plane has landed.

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‘The international market provides the region with the greatest opportunity for growth’

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Airports

Sweden for over 20 years and there have already been opportunities to benefit from lessons learned about running a modern airport, according to Lenman.

“This is an ultra-modern airport, with all the latest features. Self check-in and a unique, rapid security check are just two examples. It’s only a small airport, but we’ll be using the latest technology,” Len-man says, adding, “We sell time. One of our main focuses has been enabling pas-sengers to get out onto the slopes as quickly as possible. So we have shuttle buses that go directly to the different re-sorts, timed to coincide with the flights. Our aim is for travelers to be on the bus within 15 minutes of the plane landing.”

SUSTAINABILITY IS ANOTHER important aspect. When building the airport, they tried to have as little impact on nature as possible. “We didn’t remove any material from here during construction,” Lenman says. “We also used a quarry just a few kilometers away, to keep transport dis-tances as short as possible.”

Meanwhile, electric vehicles will be used as much as possible, district energy will provide the building with heat, all the lights are LED and the shuttle buses will run on fossil-free fuel.

“We’ve become a lot more environ-mentally aware over the past 20 years. We’re in the middle of nature here and we need to live in harmony with it. This applies both to us and the airlines that fly here, which is why we’re so pleased that SAS will be operating these routes using its quietest, most fuel-efficient aircraft, A320neos,” Lenman says.

Over 30 private companies are behind the airport. They’re pleased to see in-creased visitor numbers, of course, but there’s more to it than that alone.

“It’s a growth engine that will have a positive impact on the entire region,” says Anders Bjernulf, CEO of Destination Sälenfjällen. “Increased tax revenues and more people moving here will lead to im-proved welfare conditions.”

At a time when many rural towns are struggling to retain young, well-educated residents, the airport will help provide skills development for the entire area.

There’s another two-way benefit as well, says Bjernulf. While the airport brings opportunities for people to come to the Swedish mountains, it also opens up routes across Europe for the locals.

“Quite a few people have suddenly realized ‘Yes, now I can travel directly to London in just a few hours.’”

Scandinavian Mountains Airport

SWEDEN

NORWAY

Big is beautiful Find six great reasons to visit Sälen at


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People of SAS

The spider in the network

s Head of Network for southern Europe and intercontinental flights at SAS, Aron Backström has a

critical role in helping shape the airline. “At Network, we decide where we should fly, when we should fly there and which aircraft we should use,” he explains.

The team of about 25 people at Network, all of whom are based at the SAS Stockholm headquarters, is highly international, coming from Spain, France, Colombia and, of course, all of Scandinavia. International experience and fresh ideas are key in this department, he says. There’s a lot that goes into working out the ideal route map and schedules, and the airline prides itself on being especially agile at adapting to seasonality, according to economist Backström.

“That’s one of our strengths at SAS, we’re good at adjusting our traffic program. We do that to adapt to the different seasons and to meet both business and leisure demand at any given time,” he says. The latest trend the team is addressing, for example, is adapting the network in an even more refined way to cater to “microseasons.”

“Right now we’re just getting into golf travel – golf players like to play from late February through May, so we’re adding several flights during that time – to Faro in Portugal or a route we just launched to Seville – that we don’t fly in the summer peak season, when we’ll switch to the more traditional vacation spots.”

GETTING THAT MIX right takes a lot of work and serious knowhow. Backström and his team study historical data, analyze upcoming travel trends and destinations on the rise, and have to keep up with the latest advances in tech nology to develop a successful network. One example, which he talks about enthusiastically, is the imminent arrival of the new Airbus

The world really is Aron Backström’s oyster, as he plots the SAS network together with his team.

B y G A B R I E L L E I G HP h o t o s b y J O N A S M A L M ST RÖ M

PEOPLE OF SAS

A


People of SAS

A321LR (long range), which will allow for a new type of route to be served.

“The Long Range project has really got me going,” Backström says. “We’ve been working on it for about two years, under-standing the cost side of things, the oper-ations and what you can build onto it.”

“It’s a super-attractive asset for SAS, since we operate from Scandinavia and our widebody planes have 250 or 300 seats, which, on some routes, are too many. In addition to our ambition to be as sustainable as possible, it’s one of our core tasks to optimize seats and passen-gers. The A321LR reaches northeastern US, Canada and India, and has around 160 seats. So, especially outside our main hub in Copenhagen, it opens up some very exciting opportunities.”

WHEN HE TELLS people about his job, Backström says almost everyone asks the same question. “Why don’t you fly to Hawaii?” He laughs. “It’s the top search on our intranet, the first topic of conver-sation when you meet people.”

But surely there are plenty of closer alternatives to Hawaii for those living in Europe? “Hawaii is Hawaii. For Scandi-navians it’s a big thing,” Backström says. For the record, despite the widespread interest, he makes it clear that a Honolulu flight isn’t currently in the cards.

Backström and his team play an important role in sustainability as well, albeit in a way many passengers may not even realize.

“One of the worst things you can do for fuel consumption is run late, because if

you’re planning with a too-short time buffer, the pilots are going to have to fly faster and burn more fuel to make up for lost time,” Backström explains. “So our job is to keep planning realistic and feasi-ble, to make sure we have the time we need and we’re not running late, so we can travel at the most environmentally friendly speeds.”

Backström says he loves his job because it’s multifaceted and that he gets to be involved in so much of what makes the airline tick. “It’s the perfect mix of the commercial, understanding the customer and making deals, and, on the other hand, you’re so connected to our opera-tions,” he says. “So you get the best of the commercial and operational worlds, and it’s just great.”

Aron BackströmCareer: Head of Europe South & Intercontinental Network.Lives: Stockholm.Years at SAS: Six in total, including three at Network.Countries visited: Quite a few. The most unusual is North Korea.Favorite destinations: Beijing, because it’s dynamic, always changing and has the best food in the world.Palma or Athens, because they’re both beautiful and full of interesting things to see.

‘You get the best of the commercial and operational worlds’

Network decides where, when and with which aircraft SAS should fly.

WELCOME TO TROMSØ, ARCTIC NORWAY!

Autumn is perfect for a night at the beach

OFFICIAL TOURIST INFORMATION+47 77 61 00 00 • [email protected] @visittromso • www.visittromso.no

Photo © Vegard Stien

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Meet the fleet

MEET THE FLEETThe SAS fleet is constantly being updated. New, more efficient technology, combined with an improved traveler experience, are at the heart of SAS’ fleet development. The Airbus A320neo is currently being phased in to replace the older Boeing 737NG, and the worlds most fuel-efficient long haul aircraft the A350, will join the SAS fleet in December 2019.

Number of aircraft Number of seats Max. payload Cruising speed Fuel consumption

37.6m (35.8m wingspan)

Max. takeoff weight: 77.0 metric tons. Range: 4,600km. Engine: CFM Leap 1A.

29 (51 on order) 180

840kmph (530mph)

18.0 metric tons

0,023 liters per seat/km

Airbus A320neoScandinavian and European destinations. Operated by SAS and SAS Ireland.

8 70 7,4 metric tons

490kmph(304mph) 0,026 liters per seat/km

Max. takeoff weight: 23 metric tons. Range: 930km. Engine: PW 127M.

ATR-72-600Scandinavian and European destinations. Operated by Flybe and Regional Jet.

8 on order 300

51.0 metric tons 910kmph (570mph)

0,028 liters per seat/km

Max. takeoff weight: 268.0 metric tons. Range: 13,800km. Engine: RR Trent XWB.


From 2019: Airbus A350-900Is on order with delivery in 2019.

1/25/29 120/141/181

13.2/15.2/19.6 metric tons 840kmph (530mph)

0,037/0,032/0,027 liters per seat/km.

Max. takeoff weight: 59.9/69.4/79.0 metric tons. Range: 2,400/4,400/4,200km. Engine: CFM56-7B.

31.2/33.6/39.5m (34.3/35.8/35.8m wingspan)

Boeing 737-600/700/800 Scandinavian and European destinations.

4/11/8 150/168/200

16.7/18.0/23.0 metric tons 840kmph (530mph)

0,033/0,029/0,028 liters per seat/km.

Max. takeoff weight: 66/73.5/89.0 metric tons. Range: 3,100/3,900/3,800km. Engine: IAE V2530-A5.

33.8/37.6/44.5m (34.1m wingspan)

Airbus A319/A320/A321 Scandinavian and European destinations.

9/7 266/247

44.5/44.1 metric tons 875kmph (545mph)

0,033/0,039 liters per seat/km

Max. takeoff weight: 242.0/275.0 metric tons. Range: 10,400/12,800km.

Engine: RR Trent 772B/CFM56-5C4.


Airbus A330-300/A340-300 US and Asian destinations.

25 90 9.6 metric tons

840kmph (530mph) 0,038 liters per seat/km

Max. takeoff weight: 38.3 metric tons. Range: 2,100km. Engine: GE CF34-8C5A1.

36.2m (23.4m wingspan) 27,2m (27,1m wingspan)

Bombardier CRJ900Scandinavian and European destinations. Operated by Cityjet, Air Nostrum and Regional Jet.

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wool fibers, cotton, pieces of flax, and wooden joints cooperate is, in fact, the fruit of nearly 170 years of relentless work. Because that’s what it takes to build a platform for a better day.The Hästens experience is like receiving a comforting embrace.Order our eye-opening catalog at hastens.com.

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Gran Canaria’s Barranco de las Vacas is beginning to gain cultish appeal, courtesy of some recent social media exposure. We hit the mountains near Las Palmas in search of this natural wonder, discovering a string of magical places along the way.

DreamB y E M M A H O L M QV I ST D E AC O N P h o t o s b y C L É M E N T M O R I N

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Barranco de las Vacas? Never heard of it.” After getting nowhere quizzing locals about this ravine – which bears more than a passing resem-blance to Arizona’s Antelope Canyon, we start to think it might be a myth, or an Instagram fabrication. “I’d never heard of this place either

until about a year ago when photos of it started pop-ping up on social media,” says Michelle Segura, a born and bred Canarian and graduate of the Univer-sity of Las Palmas. “It’s so exotic-looking that I as-sumed it must be located in the American Southwest, not here on the island.”

To find out if this highly photogenic spot really does exist, we set off on a road trip – or rather a convenient combined tour of bus rides, short taxi trips and an un-forgettable two-hour mountain hike in and around the spectacular Guayadeque ravine-style valley. Easily accessible from Las Palmas, but thrillingly remote in feel, it stretches some 15km across the southeast sec-tion of Gran Canaria.

Heading south from Las Palmas, whizzing past the beautiful harbor and into the mountains, we can’t resist a pit stop at the Botanical Garden of the Canaries, which is partially set on the slopes of the Guiniguada ravine.

The bus stops at the top entrance of the 27-acre (10-hectare) garden, where a statue of the 18th centu-ry botanist and scholar Don Jose Vieray Clavijo greets us. Behind him, majestic views across the mountains spread as far as the eye can see. The rustle of palm leaves in the wind, and the solemn call of a buzzard over our heads adds to the soothing ambience. So far, so tre-mendously relaxing, but we only have to amble a short distance along the labyrinthine path before a warning sign commands our attention. “We warn our visitors that you are entering a highly dangerous track. Enter at your own risk.”

And one for the adrenaline junkie it is. Little did I know I suffered from vertigo until I progressed like a shaky-footed sloth down the unfenced zigzag steps built into the side of the ravine. (Do take care and wear sturdy footwear!)

‘It’s so exotic-looking that I assumed it must be located in the American Southwest, not here on the island’

Las Palmas’ sprawling botanical garden, with over 500 types of plants, has sweeping views.


Las Palmas

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Las Palmas

Down at the bottom, the only sign of life – aside from some 500 types of plant species that thrive in this expansive world of green growth – are chirping birds and chirruping, pond-skating frogs. It’s in this lush, tranquil part of the garden that its founder Erik Ragnar Svensson was laid to rest. His grave is hidden among the trees at the side of the path. Proving he’s not forgotten, 47 years after his death a fresh bouquet of flowers rests on his grave.

FOLLOWING THE CARDIO-STYLE workout this won-drous place has afforded us, we refuel with some much- needed caffeine in the resident restaurant. Next, we continue south in the direction of the municipality of Agüimes, located some 29km from Las Palmas, and a short car ride, or about an hour’s hike, from the Vacas ravine. The historic quarter of Agüimes, often described as an “open air museum,” has several centuries-old buildings of note, such as the Church of San Sebastian.

Other places of curious architectural note are hid-ing in the mountains – and in the actual mountain wall – some 6km away in Cueva Bermeja. Taking a seat with-in the cave-like setting of Bar Restaurante Guayadeque, we eagerly devour local specialties such as jamon serrano, chipirones (baby squid) and papas arrugadas – small potatoes boiled in extra salty water and smoth-

ered in a tasty chili and garlic-infused sauce. (If, like us, you want to sample several dishes in one sitting, be sure to state that you’d like half portions or tapas-style servings, unless you plan on feeding an army! The same goes for most restaurants in and around Las Palmas.)

There are a couple of residential houses embedded in the mountains, too. You’re allowed to step inside some of these dinky dwellings, in which souvenirs and pots of honey from the region are lined up for sale.

Determined to weave a mountain trek into our adventure while also getting to experience more of the island, we take a taxi from Cueva Bermeja to the little hamlet of Temisas in the Santa Lucia district. From here, we’re able to hit the S-40 mountain trail that will take us to Barranco de las Vacas, while the trail contin-ues to the center of Agüimes, with the ravine located roughly in the middle.

Be sure to state that you’d like half portions or tapas-style servings, unless you plan on feeding an army!

Erik Ragnar Svensson – the late Swedish founder of Las Palmas’ botanical garden – immortalized in the place he so treasured.

Right: Sugar cube houses and olive trees – the little hamlet of Temisas produces the finest olive oil on the island.

Time for lunch – in a cave. Local specialties are served in Bar Restaurante Guayadeque.

Handmade in Kosta, Sweden | www.kostaboda.se/celebrateulrica

CLEOPATRAA mysterious snake winds its way around Cleopatra’s vase of mouth-blown crystal.

The inspiration comes from Ulrica’s childhood, when the curious four-year-old tumbled into a nest of grass snakes. Her mother reacted the way most mothers

would. But Ulrica was enchanted by the mysteriousness of the snake.

Annons_KostaBoda_UHV_2019_Cleopatra_210x280_EN.indd 1 2019-08-02 11:33


Las Palmas

Temisas is a gem in its own right, its white houses looming out of the distance like clusters of sugar cubes. We can’t resist a quick walk among them. A lady no-tices our arrival, curiously peering out from a window to the soundtrack of what we assume (and hope) is a garden goat.

The streets are lined with olive trees – in fact, they’re everywhere. It so happens that this little spot, surround-ed by ancient olive groves, has the oldest olive press still in use on the island, producing what’s considered to be its finest oil. Temisas is also home to Gran Canaria’s astronomical observatory.

As much as we enjoy the tranquility of this unique hamlet, the siren call of Barranco de las Vacas is getting stronger. Turning back to locate the trail, we meet a man in his Sunday best – cobalt blue tailored trousers and a patterned shirt – and a lapdog by his side. He helpfully points us in the right direction and off we go.

Leaving the colony of white houses behind, we start our ascent. It feels as if we’ve been teleported into some sort of Wild West movie. Clouds of sandy, reddish earth form around our feet as we trample along the trail under the beating sun. Enormous fruit-bearing cacti spread out like a powerful, prickly army. Progressing down the steep valley and up across the next elevation, we pass row after row of waist-high aloe plants – a super spe-cies the Canarians make sure to capitalize on. There are several shops in Las Palmas (and at the airport)

THIS WAY TO LAS PALMAS

SAS flies direct to Gran Canaria from Stockholm, Oslo and Copenhagen and offers connecting flights from other cities in Scandinavia.


member, you earn points when you fly on SAS, Star Alliance and partners. A round trip to Gran Canaria will earn you up to 2,000 points in SAS Go.


trip from Scandi-navia to Gran Canaria from 30,000 points. Taxes and fees apply from €30.




The rugged beauty of the Guayadeque ravine.

Step inside – a cave house inthe valley ofGuayadeque,near the village ofAgüimes.

‘It feels as if we’ve been teleported into some sort of Wild West movie’

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Las Palmas

dedicated solely to aloe products, cherished for its heal-ing properties.

The dizzyingly beautiful Guayadeque terrain is home to an array of endemic plants and creatures. We keep our eyes peeled for a Gallotia stehlini lizard, a giant species that can reach 80cm in length. Alas, no sightings today.

EDGING CLOSER TO our final destination, we meet a young Portuguese couple asking for help in locating the somewhat hard-to-find Vacas ravine. There’s more than a hint of desperation in their voices as they’ve trav-eled from the far south of the island especially to see it.

As we traipse down the trail leading to the tunnel under the bridge (we’ve been told to look out for this), another couple appears from the other direction. Beam-ing, they tell us to prepare for something “epic.”

As the clock strikes 6pm, we’re privileged to be the only worshippers of this natural wonder. Bathed in the soft, early evening light, it looks even more extraordi-nary than on camera. The ravine’s curvaceous walls and linear rock patterns usher us forward seductively. It’s a soothing otherworldly experience – as if we’ve

Bathed in the soft, early evening light, it looks even more extraordinary than on camera

Left: The Guayade-que ravine- style valley is home to an array of endemic flora and fauna.

Below: A pair of fellow ravine- seekers about t o enter the promised land – Barranco de las Vacas.

In search of the lost Vacas ravine.

Try 14 days for free.After the 14-day trial period, your subscription continues at 179,-/ month.

Scandinavien_traveler_210x280mm_5mmBleed_Updated.indd 2 10/09/2019 11.08


been swallowed down into the belly of some alien yet benign organism.

So what gives this ravine its remarkable appear-ance? Its distinctive rock formations are called Tobas de Colores, a striped effect also found in the famous Antelope Canyon. Depending on the type of light it’s exposed to, it shifts in color, from deep terracotta and amber to silvery beige. The curved shape of its walls, meanwhile, has been formed by water flowing through the volcanic rock.

The most picturesque section of the ravine – the one people come from afar to experience – is not sprawling by any means, measuring about 50m in length. But its manageable scale simply adds to its therapeutic appeal – it’s a difficult place to leave. The silence within is almost absolute, punctuated by the occasional soft echo of fluttering dove wings. These birds have set up nests in the hollows of the rocks above. Barranco de las Vacas’ hypnotic charm clearly attracts wildlife, too.

HOW TO GET THERE AND WHEN TO GO

Barranco de las Vacas (or Barranco de Barafonso, or even Tobas de Colores, as it’s also known by locals) is locat-ed in the southeast of Gran Canaria, between the villages of Agüimes and Temisas.

TRAVEL BY CAR Key in “Tobas de Colores

Barranco de las Vacas” to get the most accurate spot on Google Maps – GC–551, 35260 Agüimes, Las Palmas. Drive to Agüimes and continue along highway GC-550 towards Temisas. As this is not a commercial tour-ist destination, there’s no entrance fee or official parking – aside from a small space for two or three cars at the road-side, about 20m from the stone bridge.

BY BUS FROM LAS PALMAS Travel to Agüimes or Temisas

(buses to Agüimes are more fre-quent). From either of these vil-lages, hike along the trail “Camino Agüimes S–40.” The shorter trek is from Agüimes, which takes about an hour. The hike from Temisas takes be-tween 1.5 and 2 hours.

WHEN TO GO Anytime. Gran Canaria is an

all-year-round destination due to its fabulously warm climate. The most fascinating part of Barranco de las Vacas is only about 50m long. Try to visit early morning or late afternoon/early evening to increase your chances of experiencing this natural wonder on your own – and getting the opportunity to capture the moment for Instagram in peace. Most people climb atop the big boulder in the picturesque center of the ravine for their Insta-moment.

Its manageable scale simply adds to its therapeutic appeal – it’s a difficult place to leave

In the womb of the otherworldly Barranco de las Vacas.

Las Palmas

Sharp Swedish steel & Swedish design

Two well renowned recipes for premium tools.

First we take the best Swedish high carbon steel from Sandvik, used for everything from drills to skates.

Then we take our favourite designer, Jon Eliason, and we give him free hands to do something nice yet practical.

We get these hard, stainless and very durable kitchen knives that embodies form and functionality. No loose parts, nowhere to hide for moisture, dirt and bacteria. Yet so beautiful, well balanced and in every way sharp.

Cutting edge technology for your cooking.

Orrefors Jernverk and Kosta Linnewäfveri is sold in Sweden by D&J Frantextil. dochj.se

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Read more at flysas.com/en/sustainability

TRAVELERS FOR THE FUTURE

YOUR REASON TO TRAVEL IS OUR

REASON TO FLY MORE SUSTAINABLY

YOU CAN NOW ADD A BIOFUEL UPGRADE WHEN TRAVELING WITH US


Tokyo treatsTokyo boasts the most three-starred restaurants in the world and offers over 90,000 eateries. So where do you chow down next time you’re in town? We asked lauded chef Luca Fantin.

B y A RG OT M U R E L I U S

t’s no great secret that Tokyo is every other gastro-naut’s favorite destination. The Japanese capital con-

jures culinary ecstasy, thrilling discerning diners with airs of haute cuisine and fris-sons of back-alley ramen. Japan fostered an Olympic-grade food obsession by in-venting the elaborate art of kaiseki and myriad other cuisines, with ancient tea ceremony rituals and frugality as sources of inspiration. Perfection is a virtue here and chefs are celebrated artists, and in line with haikus, the year is divided into 72 seasons, allowing for subtle menu changes that remind perceptive gourmets of how Mother Nature gives birth to new delicacies roughly every five days.

Lauded chef Luca Fantin was voted the world’s best Italian chef by Identitá Golose in 2015 and is currently celebrating his tenth anniversary in the Japanese capital, so he knows a thing or two about the city’s dynamic dining scene. His eaterie, Il Ristorante Luca Fantin, is ranked num-ber 18 on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

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Luca Fantin, whose eatery is ranked num-ber 18 on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, was voted the world’s best Italian chef by Identitá Golose in 2015.


Tokyo

NARISAWA3 Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa calls

his cooking innovative Satoyama cuisine, referring to the term for that area of arable land between the mountain and the sea where smallscale agriculture is carried out. It translates into vivid tableaus such as an edible mossy landscape and a lily pond with an exquisite, minute, deepfried ayu (a river fish). Minami Aoyama 2-6-15, Minato-kunarisawa-yoshihiro.com

TORITAMA A traditional yakitori joint hid

ing in plain sight under a highway overpass, this is the kind of unassuming place that’ll make you think you’ve stumbled upon Tokyo’s last untouched culinary gem. Toritama is a badly kept secret that attracts aficionados of skewered chicken in part because it serves some 30 different cuts of the bird (the yolk of unlaid eggs, grilled in their membrane is a real rarity), compared to normal yakitoriyas that dole out an unambitious dozen or so. 6-22-19 Shirogane, Minato-ku, Tokyotoritama.net

TOWA Chef Takaaki Tsuneyasu has a

thing for beef – Wagyu beef that he purportedly loves more than anything else. At Towa, launched in the spring of 2018, his seasonal menu is a lipsmacking, multicourse omakase adventure that offers some nextlevel creativity and features filet, rib roast, sirloin and various other choice parts of brand name cow. 2F, 4-11-25, Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku

GINZA SASUGA RIN Good handmade soba noo

dles are pure art – a tangle of pleasantly chewy, grayish brown buckwheat strands that are a standalone dish and particularly pleasant and cooling in the summertime served cold. Chef Dairin Arai has been making soba noodles since the age of 18. He also makes thick wheat udon noodles, but it’s the soba you’re going to want to order. 1F Glass gate Building, 1-19-12, Ginza, Chuo-kuginzarin.com

Solo in TokyoJapan lends itself particularly well to solo travel. Read more at scandinaviantraveler.com

1

TANAKADA1 Hot pot sounds like the kind

of thing that college students whip up in their jerryrigged dorm room kitchens, right? Well, think again, because there are alternative hot pots like those at Tanakada where this pseudo DIY dish is delicate, sophisti cated and composed of refined ingredients, with a smattering of chic accoutrements. Sara Building 1F, 3-17-26, Nishi-Azabu, Minato-kutanakada.net/hakatanaka

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THIS WAY TO TOKYO

A round trip to Tokyo will cost you from

60,000 points. Taxes and fees apply from €38.

Book at flysas.com

CRONY2 Chefowner Hichihiro Haruta

has an impressive résumé that includes international gastro hits such as Oslo’s Maaemo, Paris’ Ledoyen and Copenhagen’s Kadeau. His cooking is like your childhood home, that is, if it had a kitchen full of fancy equipment and access to precious seasonal ingredients. MB1F, Nishiazabu FT Building, 2-25-24, Nishi-Azabu, Minato-kufft-crony.jp


Berlin

Divided and reunited BerlinWhat a dynamic, future-oriented city contemporary Berlin is. Yet this reunified German capital bears traces of its three decades divided by the Wall. For the intrepid traveler, visiting these spots makes for a compelling comparison between then and now.

B y EVA PAU LS E N

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Berlin

an overjoyed reunited nation. David Hasselhoff sang “Looking For Freedom” from the top of the graffiti- strewn Wall, while the slogan Wir Sind Ein Volk! (“We are one people!”), was chanted against the backdrop of pickaxes smashing into concrete. The East Germans stocked up on big bunches of bananas, and finally, di-vided families, friends and lovers could throw them-selves into one another’s arms.

NOW, FAST FORWARD three decades, and Berlin can take pride in its image as one of Europe’s (or more likely, one of the world’s) most dynamic, inclusive and forward-looking cities, with a rebellious streak that makes no apologies for itself. But this is not a city that forgets. Wherever you go in the German capital, you can see traces of its dramatic past. A walk along Karl-Marx- Allee, with its austere Stalinist-style architecture, reminds you of the heyday of Communism, while the

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n the evening of 9 November, 1989, something happened in Berlin that had long been considered impossible. This was a city that had been divided for 30

years, during which time it had witnessed over 130 deaths due to failed attempts to flee from East to West, via everything from hot air balloons to tightropes.

And what exactly happened on that November evening? A communication blunder that led to the sudden, peaceful, yet earthshaking fall of the Berlin Wall. During a press conference, the East German Politburo announced that visa restrictions were to be abolished. A reporter at that conference asked when the new policy would come into effect, and a confused Günter Schabowski, a functionary newly appointed as Communist Party spokesman, who had no informa-tion on the matter, answered “immediately.” He didn’t realize that the new policy wasn’t intended to take effect until the next day, and that it would involve all kinds of red tape, including visa requirements.

The resulting media reports prompted thousands of East Germans to head to the border crossing on Bornholmer Strasse, where equally uninformed secu-rity guards, finding themselves suddenly under pres-sure, chose to open the gates. Like a falling house of cards, all border checkpoints were quickly opened, and – just like that – East Germans flooded into the for bidden paradise of West Berlin.

The time that followed appeared to be a dream for

OBerlin can take pride in its image as one of Europe’s (or more likely, one of the world’s) most dynamic, inclusive and forward -looking cities

Hundreds of people gathered to celebrate New Year's Eve near the Berlin Wall, which fell on 9 November, 1989.

The Berlin Wall at Potsdamer Platz.

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Choosing business outfits with a presidential flair, Mr. Strategy is inim-itable. He loves his subtle mix of elegant appearance and comfort to smooth his many negotiations. He values exquisite quality and comfort more than fleeting fashion trends. Mr. Strategy always prefers class and style. Lords of Scandinavia offers suits in fabrics from the world’s finest weavers like Scabal, Loro Piana, Zegna, Dormeuil, Holland&Sherry and Cerruti 1881. Two suits, two shirts exclusively tailored for you, with two ties can upgrade your business wardrobe for DKK 11.990,-

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Berlin

famous graffitied sections of the Wall still standing along the River Spree are as well-visited today as they ever were before.

At the city’s most famous border crossing, Checkpoint Charlie, a meticulously brewed flat white coffee awaits at a hip West Berlin café. Not far from there, a commem-orative plaque honors 18-year-old Peter Fechter, who, gunned down by East German border guards, bled to death in front of hundreds of witnesses.

The Germans themselves also still bear imprints of their time as two peoples. The difference between Ossis (an East German worker) and Wessis (the West German counterpart) is generally implicit, and romances between the two societies are still not as common as between Germans and foreigners, even though the Wall has been gone for longer than it stood.

Nevertheless, the Fall will be celebrated by all Berliners this November, when the seven-day Berlin Route of the Revolution festival will transform this city into one giant, united open air stage, complete with events, concerts, theater, exhibitions and guided tours.

But if you’d like to immerse yourself in the time when Berlin was a divided city, here are six recommendations for destinations and experiences that will transport you from now to then, in the footsteps of the Wall.

THIS WAY TO BERLIN

SAS flies direct to Berlin from Stockholm, Oslo and Copenhagen and offers connecting flights from other cities in Scandinavia.


member, you earn points when you fly on SAS, Star Alliance and partners. A round trip to Berlin will earn you up to 2,000 points in SAS Go.


trip from Scandi-navia to Berlin from 30,000 points. Taxes and fees apply from €30.

Cash in points Make a better

start to your trip by upgrading via an SAS Upgrade. Read more at flysas.com


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West Germans welcoming East Germans across the newly opened border.

CABINET LA TOUR DE VENCE AGENCE IMMOBILIèRE

BUYING AND SELLING REAL ESTATE ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA

Agence La Tour de Vence, Mikkel Aaby, French Authorized Real Estate Agent, Carte Professionnelle No. CPI06052016000004307 – FNAIM/Galian guarantee: 120,000 EUR310 Chemin du Baou des Noirs – F-06140 Vence – Tel. +33 614 88 02 23 – Email: [email protected] – Website: cabinetlatourdevence.com

Other properties for sale: Apartment in Vence 120 sqm/445,000 EUR • Apartment in Vence 45 sqm/160,000 EUR Penthouse in Cannes 110+116 sqm/970,000 EUR • Town house in Tourrettes sur Loup 100 sqm/385,000 EUR

Villa in Vence 240 sqm/1,000,000 EUR • Building plot in Vence 4,550 sqm/1,100,000 EUR • Penthouse in Mandelieu 130+150 sqm/995,000 EUR Villa in Mandelieu 250 sqm/1,350,000 EUR • Property in Vence 280 sqm/2,650,000 EUR • Villa in Saint Paul 350 sqm/3,800,000 EUR

Villa in Vence 500 sqm/5,900,000 EUR • Villa in Vence 500 sqm/8,900,000 EUR • Château in Villeneuve Loubet 1,000 sqm/9,900,000 EUR

Living area: 110 sqmSize of plot: 11,800/60 sqmNo. of Bedrooms: 3

No. of Bathrooms: 2Price: EUR 415,000File No. 230-519

Living area: 240 sqmSize of plot: 2,300 sqmNo. of Bedrooms: 4

No. of Bathrooms: 4Price: EUR 1,550,000File No. 131-123


No. of Bathrooms: 4Price: EUR 850,000File No. 193-08

Living area: 240 sqmSize of plot: 6,500 sqmNo. of Bedrooms: 4+

No. of Bathrooms: 3+Price: EUR 2,250,000File No. 904-270

Living area: 670 sqmSize of plot: 3,820 sqmNo. of Bedrooms: 6+

No. of Bathrooms: 5+Price: EUR 6,600,000File No. 910-08

Most charming 110 sqm townhouse nestled in a small and exclusive domain with just 12 houses, very large common swimming pool and adjoin-ing park. Private terraces with sea views.

Lovely and spacious quality built Provencal villa with stunning panoramic sea views and moun-tain views as well. Situated in the best residential area of Vence at a dead-end road.

Elegant stone built Provencal style villa situated close to Saint Paul de Vence. Suitable as a family home as well as secondary home. Easy to maintain gardens with centennial olive trees and completely private pool area.

This villa of high standards is peacefully nestled in residential area of equal high standards offering pano-ramic Sea views, lots of charm and complete tranquility. Private forest, private tennis, private outdoor theatre.

Entirely stone built château style Bastide enjoying sea views, centennial olive groves, large soft water swimming pool, garages for up to 10 cars, state-of-the-art luxurious standing throughout the property.

Saint Antoine, Tourrettes sur Loup

Bastide des Baous, Vence

Villa Diandra, La Sine

Propriété Hic et Nunc, Vence Bastide de La Tour, Vence

cabinetlatourdevence.com



cabinetlatourdevence.com cabinetlatourdevence.com

Keywords: Square, practical, good

Keywords: Quality, haven of peace, views

Keywords: Compact, idyllic oasis, calm

Keywords: Views, tranquility, well being Keywords: Beauty, sea views, high standards


No. of Bathrooms: 4Price: EUR 1,500,000File No. 163-21

Large and spacious California style villa with great views to the Mediterranean Sea and its own creek passing the grounds and gardens. Independent guests’ apartment, garages, walking distance to downtown Vence.

Mont San Michele, Vence


Keywords: Views, living space, creek

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MAUERPARK1 Mauerpark is home to

Berlin’s largest weekend flea market, attracting visitors hunting for a bar-gain and enjoying street food, musicians and karaoke. It’s hard to imag-ine that this was once known as “the death strip,” a no-man’s-land between the two sides of the Wall, laden with mines, watchtowers and moni-tored by armed guards. Bernauer Strasse 63mauerpark.info

MARTIN GROPIUS BAU2 A stone’s throw from

Potsdamer Platz, the neo- Renaissance Martin Gropius Bau – a leading European museum of modern, contemporary and photo art, is celebrat-ing the 30th anniversary with an international art exhibit, Walking Through Walls, which runs until 12 January, 2020. Niederkirchnerstrasse 7berlinerfestspiele.de

BERLINER UNTERWELTEN, TOUR M

Over 70 tunnels were constructed under the Berlin Wall, and around 300 individuals managed

to escape through them. The Berliner Unterwelten- Museum, as this con-glomeration of tunnels and bunkers is now called, offers a unique experience descending into the chilly air beneath the Bernauer Strasse underground station and through some of the walk-ways. You can almost feel the desperation of those prepared to risk it all to escape.Brunnenstrasse 105berliner-unterwelten.de

GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLIN-HOHENSCHÖNHAUSEN

Sometimes it can be difficult not to wallow in Ostalgie (nostalgia for the former DDR), feelings that many Germans, despite everything, still harbor. To avoid over- romanticizing the DDR, visit the former Stasi prison in Hohen-schönhausen, now a combined museum and memorial. The guides are former guards and pris-oners who give eye-witness testimony to some of the terrors that took place here.Genslerstrasse 66stiftung-hsh.de

OSTEL3 If you’re game to take a

closer look not only at what life looked like in the former DDR, but also how it felt and smelled, you can book a room at Ostel. All the rooms in this unique hostel are housed in an authentic 1970s “Plattenbau” – a building constructed from con-crete slabs.Wriezener Karree 5ostel.eu

KATERSCHMAUS4 One definite must-do is

a visit to the East Side Gallery. This is the fa-mous graffitied section of the Wall where the so-called “Fraternal Kiss” painting of Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev and East German leader Erich Honecker remains just as passionate today – as documented by the non-stop, merrily clicking tour-ist cameras. A short walk along the Wall brings you to Holzmarkt, the quirky urban oasis where the much-hyped hidden foodies’ restaurant Katerschmaus serves delicious food on the banks of the River Spree. Holzmarktstrasse 25katerschmaus.de

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WALLS COME TUMBLING

DOWNIt may be 30 years since the Berlin

Wall came down, but several places around the city provide the chance to see its remains and a glimpse of

a former life.

Uncover the secrets Find out about the unknown side of Berlin at


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B y EVA PAU LS E N

Hold is a unique glass vase designed by Pascal Charmolu

Look at www.sagaform.com for more information about retailers and products.


Shanghai

Wan Ling is a Chinese tea master. She knows when to drink black, green or white tea, from what height it should be poured, and what type you’ll like depending on the balance of your body.

B y C RYSTA L R E I DP h o t o s b y DAV E TAC O N


Shanghai

n China, tea is more than just a drink. The Chinese have been cultivating, processing and drinking what’s known as cha for mil-lennia, with the earliest discovery found

in the tomb of Emperor Jing of Han, who died in 141 BC. China’s sun-soaked southern province of Yunnan is also home to what’s believed to be the world’s oldest cultivated tea tree, a towering tangle of branches 3,200 years young.

Chinese scholars have long hailed tea’s medicinal benefits, and nobility have flaunted it as a status symbol for centuries. It first became popular among the mass-es in the Tang dynasty (618–907), when people would gather in humble teahouses to share news and ideas. While the teahouses have changed over the years — most recently into sleek design-led spaces — the habit of drinking tea remains burned into the Chinese con-sciousness. Whatever the weather or activity, it’s rare to see a Chinese person without their trusty thermos, and teahouses are as alive and well as ever.

WAN LING MIGHT as well have tea running in her veins. Hailing from a family of growers in China’s southeastern Fujian province, the home of oolong tea, she’s worked in the business all her life. She now has her own tea house in Shanghai, from which she serves and schools enthusiasts from all over the country.

“Drinking tea is a part of daily life,” she says, pour-ing a fragrant roasted oolong into tiny porcelain bowls. “In my hometown, every family has a big tea table and whenever you see them sitting down, they are always making tea.”

There are six main types of Chinese tea – oolong, green, white, yellow, black and dark. While some re-gions are famous for certain varieties, all categories come from either the tea bush or the tea tree and are distinguished only by their processing technique. Within these broad groupings however, thousands of smaller subtleties are dictated by location.

According to Wan Ling, the tea you choose should depend on the weather, with green tea more suitable for hot climes and dark better in the cold. The teas you like and dislike, she believes, are also directed by the balance of your body.

DESPITE DRINKING TEA for as long as she can remem-ber, Wan Ling only started learning about it from out-side Fujian when her friend widened her horizons with an antique 1951 pu’er tea from Yunnan. With the spark ignited, she traveled to regions across China and spent several years under the tutelage of a Malaysian tea mas-ter. After years of study, she can now blind-taste min-ute variations and tell whether a clay cup was made in an electric or wood-fired kiln.

And while stylized tea ceremonies are still an im-portant part of prominent events such as weddings, a true master knows each one must be treated differ-ently, with slight alterations of the temperature of the water, the infusion time and even the height the tea is poured from. “In my opinion, if you’re making a cup of tea, the final product is an artwork,” Wan Ling says. “But I think if the tea you drink touches you, the pro-cess doesn’t matter that much.”

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‘The tea you choose should depend on the weather’

The temperature of the water and height the tea is poured from depend on the type of tea.


Shanghai

FROM THE SOURCE1 Book a master class with Wan

Ling herself. Her tranquil and tiny teahouse takes up the bot-tom floor of a traditional lane house and courtyard in Xuhui. She knows the theory and all her teas inside out. Her English is great and her prices are fair.Wan Ling Tea HouseNo.1, 156 You Qing Luwanlingteahouse.com

A TOUCH OF CLASS2 Huxinting Tea House, also

known as Yuyuan Tea House after the park in which it sits, is probably the most famous one in Shanghai. Set on stilts in the middle of a lake, the jaw- dropping Ming dynasty building was first established as a teahouse in 1855. This location has attracted the elite for years with its famed high-quality leaves and refined atmosphere.Huxinting Tea House257 Yuyuan Lu

21ST CENTURY TEA Zee Tea is one of the more

extreme examples of the mod-ern incarnation of the Chinese teahouse. Within the confines of this highly Instagrammable space, you’ll find tea with alco-hol, tea with ice cream and even tea desserts.Zee Tea74 Tongren Lu

Shanghai teahousesThere are over 3,000 teahouses in operation in Shanghai. From the clas-sic to the modern, here are a few worth visiting.

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THIS WAY TO SHANGHAI

A round trip to Shanghai will earn you up to 12,000 points in

SAS Go.Book at flysas.com

Lodgify your fishing …

Come and experience Småland and the Kingdom of Crystal.Kosta Lodge is located in the middle of the Kingdom of Crystal, close to one of Sweden’s

oldest glassworks. Guests come to us to experience, relax and feel good.

KOSTA – SMÅLANDS NEWFISHING DESTINATION

We also have a

camper area!

STORA VÄGEN 2, KOSTA | +46 478-590 530 | WWW.KOSTALODGE.SE

FISHING PACKAGE WITH ACCOMMODATION• Accommodation 2 nights in a double room or cottage. • Hotel breakfast. • Access to the jacuzzi and sauna.

• Dinner one of the evenings. • Three waters in idyllic Småland with a good stock of trout are included.• Fishing in one of the lakes allows kayaking. • A glass gift is included when you stay with us in the Kingdom of Crystal.

From SEK 2.195 per person, valid Friday to Sunday.

BOOK YOUR SMÅLAND EXPERIENCE TODAY!

CONFERENCE

We have a wide range of nature activities.

A revolutionary Tech construction, the lightness of Graphene and the perfect

shock absorbing power of Koroyd

Kore 99

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Hedvig Wessel is a professional skier. She has two Olympic games under her belt. She first participated as a mogul rider, but now she competes in freestyle.

Last season, Hedvig finished fourth in the Freeride World Tour. Wessel managed to win one competition and achieved top-ten placements in all the World Tour competitions.

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A revolutionary Tech construction, the lightness of Graphene and the perfect

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SOME SEE THE EIFFEL TOWER

OTHERS SEE BUSINESS WAITING TO BE DONE

INSTANT DISCOUNT – SIMPLE PROGRAM

SAS For Business not only offers members instant discounts on business trips, but also guarantees hassle-free travel with no need of administration.

All travelers earn EuroBonus points, and when traveling on SAS Plus or SAS Business, they can utilize fully flexible tickets, SAS Fast Tracks and

SAS Lounges, WiFi as well as meals and beverages onboard.

SAS FOR BUSINESS


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Flight guideNews ’n’ views ⁄ EuroBonus ⁄ On the ground ⁄ In the air ⁄ Maps ⁄ Menu

Air travel connects businesses, communities, cultures and people in a time-efficient way. That’s why

we’re constantly working hard to reduce the climate impact from our operations so that we can ensure the value of aviation for generations to come.

This requires innovation along with a mindset to always consider sustainability in everything we do. The most visible sign of our work to reduce emissions is the large investment we’re making in new aircraft. Our new aircraft reduce CO2 emissions by 15 to 18% for short routes and 30 to 40% for long routes compared with similar aircraft from previous generations. To manifest this big change in our fleet, we’re giving our air-craft a new look, a new livery – the first in more than 20 years.

This is a continuation of the new design onboard, where we have also changed our cabin interiors using, for example, new seats and carpets that weigh less and are made of more sustainable materials.

Many initiatives with sustainability in mind are already ongoing, including striving

to keep the use of plastic packaging to a bare minimum, developing our pre-order meal concept to reduce weight and waste, using electric vehicles on the ground and optimiz-ing the use of deicing fluids to mention just a few.

In the long term, we’re looking into inno-vations such as electric-powered aircraft, but until there’s a technical solution ready for a zero- emission aircraft, biofuel is the bridge we need to dramatically reduce CO2 emis-sions from aviation.

Now you as a traveler can be part of mak-ing your flight more sustainable by adding biofuel to your ticket. Just like you add extra baggage, onboard meals and lounge access, you can also buy biofuel. SAS makes no pro-fit on your purchase and your contribution adds to the biofuel that SAS is already using.

We know that many challenges remain as we transition to more sustainable aviation, but we want to lead the way. Join us on our journey. Welcome onboard!

Rickard Gustafson President and CEO, SAS

We’re determined to minimize our climate impact to ensure that future generations can continue to fly too.

Reducing the climate impact of flying

Facts & figures

78 SAS aircraft are equipped with WiFi

2.9million people traveled with SAS in September

A SPECIAL CHRISTMAS GIFTCould there be a better gift than

giving someone the chance to experience the world? The SAS

Gift Card can also be used for bio-fuel and other ancillaries.

Travel direct to Rhodes from Copenhagen from 29 June 2020

Rickard’s tipPlanning a trip? Remember that if you’re a EuroBonus member,

your SAS tickets are automatically carbon offset,

free of charge.

At Pilot Flight Academy we offer you a full-time pilot education in only two years. At our top modern facilities a fleet of new Diamond aircraft and advanced simulators are waiting to make sure you get the best training possible.

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DO YOU WANT TO BECOME A PILOT?Would you like a seat in the cockpit with the best view available? What about the possibility to travel the world?


Sustainability

hroughout 2019, many changes have been made to SAS’ inflight products and services to make it even

more sustainable. These include the re-moving of tax-free sales and increasing the availability of pre- order meals to help reduce waste and weight. Now the airline is focusing on replacing some of the mat-erials that are used onboard. One of the first to undergo this change is the New Nordic “Cube.”

With an emphasis on reducing food waste and using locally sourced and sea-sonal ingredients, the cube, which has won awards for its innovative design, has had a sustainability focus since it was first launched in 2017. And now the Cube will be relaunched in November with a brand new external design and even better packaging and contents.

“We have a sustainable mindset for everything we do,” says Gustaf Öholm, Head of Onboard Product Services & Ancillary at SAS. “And we’re constantly looking at our weight and the materials we use to see how we can become more sustainable.

“To improve our product and service offering, we’ve been working on a process we call stop, reduce and replace,” Öholm continues. “This involves evaluating all the materials and products that we load onboard and asking: Should we have this onboard? Does the customer need it or is it there because we’ve always had it? If we decide that we still need it, we work to reduce its use by, for example, involving

Creating a sustainable onboard offeringWith a stronger focus on reducing climate impact than ever before, the packaging of the SAS New Nordic dining experience is being transformed.

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In November, the Cube will get a new external design with an outside made of FSC-approved paper.


Sustainability

the cabin crew to see how we can hand out fewer plastic glasses – asking passen-gers if they can use the same glass for more than one drink. And most impor-tantly, we look for new ways to replace existing materials with more sustainable ones.”

With that in mind, while the outside of the Cube has always been made from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) approved paper, SAS asked its suppliers to evaluate how the use of plastic inside could be minimized.

Some form of plastic is usually neces-sary for food storage due to food safety requirements. But SAS’ suppliers came up with a solution that replaces the Cube’s inside plastic container and lid with FSC- certified paper products and a plant based plastic coating. The new Cube also has fewer items in it, a decision was made after looking at customer behavior.

“We’re very proud of the food in the Cube and we’ve noted that the extra salt and pepper isn’t used that much, so we took them away along with the wet wipe and the toothpick,” says Öholm. “The

cutlery material has also been changed from oil-based plastic to a plant-based one and we have removed the plastic bag around the cutlery kit. It’s now wrapped in a paper napkin.”

The newly designed Cube is an impor-tant step in creating a more sustainable offering onboard. “We decided to stop providing the hot towel service on flights within Europe on SAS Plus, and we changed the swivel sticks that you put in your drink from plastic to FSC- certified wood,” says Öholm. “And of course, we’re continuously looking at all products to minimize the use of plastic.”

SAS’ pre-order meal service is another important initiative that is helping mini-

mize food waste and reduce the weight onboard, as well as creating a personalized onboard experience for travelers, while additional ongoing SAS initiatives include investing in more fuel- efficient aircraft, giving travelers the op-portunity to buy biofuel and carbon off-setting all EuroBonus members’ tickets.

“We’re working every day to change all the disposable materials that we have on-board SAS flights and to find innovative ways to make our service offering as sus-tainable as possible,” says Lars Andersen Resare, Head of Environment and CSR at SAS.

“The Cube is the frontrunner of a large part of the onboard service and we’ve now developed a new smart, more sus-tainable and non-fossil-based paper con-tainer for it. We’re constantly looking for products and new methods of working across every part of SAS. Although larger initiatives such as fleet modernization, biofuel usage and electric aircraft devel-opment may have a higher profile, every step toward an improved offering for our travelers makes a difference.”

‘Does the customer need it or is it there because we’ve always had it?’

The use of plastic inside the Cube has also been minimized, for example around the cutlery.

Kvernhusveien 26(+47) 75 50 35 00www.jektefart.no facebook.com/Jektefartsmuseet

Welcome to Bodø and the Norwegian Jekt trade museum

BODØ - European Capital of Culture 2024 - bodo2024. no

NORWEGIAN JEKT TRADE MUSEUM - BODØLet us take you onboard for a journey into history you will never forget. The history of trade in circumpolar Norway is extraordinary. The open square sailed ship called Jekt sailed the Norwegian coast from medieval times to modern day. Onboard it carried stock fish and cod-liver oil. The coastal communities in northern Norway depended on this trade. A uniquely preserved jekt is the center of the exhibition.In the museum café you can enjoy the view, while having a snack or taste some stockfish cuisine.The Norwegian Jekt trade museum is situated just a few minutes from Bodøs hotels and airport.

Opening hours mon-fri 12-16, sat/sun 11-17www.jektefart.no for more information


On the groundFLEXIBLE CHECK-INSAS offers several alternatives to standing in line at the check-in desk:

Online: Go to flysas.com or use the check-in email you get 22 hours before departure

By phone Go to mobile.flysas.com or use the link sent with the check-in text message you receive 22 hours before departure. SAS App Airport self-service check-in kiosks

MOBILE SERVICESIf you check in via text message, the SAS mobile site, the SAS app or online, you can choose to use our mobile boarding pass on selected routes. To keep you informed about the status of your flight, we’ll send a text mess age with news of any cancellations or delays within 22 hours of departure.

AIRPORT LOUNGESThere are 19 SAS Lounges at 14 different airports around the world. As part of Star Alliance, SAS EuroBonus Gold and Diamond members have access to all Star Alliance lounges. SAS also offers SAS Business and SAS Plus travelers access to Star Alliance lounges at SAS destinations (except for US lounges for SAS Plus travelers). SAS Go travelers can pay for access to SAS Lounges when they check in online or at a SAS Self Service kiosk at the airport.

SECURITYSAS Fast Track provides the quickest way through security. Access is offered to travel-ers in SAS Business or SAS Plus, or Euro-Bonus Gold and Diamond members irre-spective of service class, when traveling with SAS or other Star Alliance member carrier. EuroBonus Diamond and Gold members can also bring one (1) guest or maximum four (4) family members through SAS Fast Track if traveling on the same flight with SAS.

SAS SMART PASSSAS Smart Pass is a sticker you can attach to your smartphone for identification at self- service kiosks, security, lounges and gates. It is available to Scandinavian EuroBonus Gold and Diamond members when flying within Scandinavia and to Schengen countries.

Well begun is half done. Your perfect journey begins at home.

JOIN EUROBONUS Sign up free at

flysas.com/eurobonus

Free baggageYou find our standard free baggage allowances below. In addition to these, Euro Bonus Silver members enjoy the benefit of one (1) additional checked-in bag allowance, and EuroBonus Gold and Diamond members two (2) additional checked-in bag allowance, when traveling in SAS Go, Plus and Business.

SAS GO 1 checked bag x 23kg 1 carry-on bag x 8kg

SAS PLUS 2 checked bags x 23kg 1 carry-on bag x 8kg

(2 carry-on bags x 8kg if traveling to or from the US or Asia

SAS BUSINESS 2 checked bags x 32kg 2 carry-on bag x 8kg

Traveling without baggage? Try SAS Go Light. See flysas.com for deals to selected destinations.

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FORAMOREBEAUTIFULHOMEFurniture & interiors, bought and delivered at home


Follow SAS facebook.com/SAS instagram.com/flySAS twitter.com/SAS youtube.com/flySAS

SEATINGFrom luxurious Business sleepers to ergonomically designed seats for travelers in SAS Go, we make sure you’re sitting com fortably. And to ensure you get your favorite seat, you can always preorder it on SAS’ website.

ENTERTAINMENTSAS now offers high speed WiFi on routes within Europe. WiFi is free for travelers in SAS Plus, and for EuroBonus Gold and Diamond members. WiFi is also available for a fee in SAS Go.

On intercontinental flights, we offer a wide variety of movies, music and games on personal screens. You can find out more about what’s on your flight and watch trailers in our online entertainment guide at inflightentertainment.sas.se/en. There are power outlets at all seats with extra USB charging possibilities in the screens. On these flights, there is also free WiFi for SAS Business and SAS Plus travelers. If your aircraft is equipped with WiFi, you can go online by activating WiFi separately on your device, but your device must remain in flight mode.

UNACCOMPANIED MINORSOur unaccompanied minors service makes sure your loved ones arrive safe and sound. The service is meant mainly for children aged 5 to 11, but it is also optional for travelers age 12 and older.

… AND AS ALWAYSHere’s what you always enjoy on SAS:

25–90% discount on children’s fares

Digital publications in the SAS App

Free coffee and tea onboard (except for certain routes)

24-hour money-back guarantee

At SAS, we always aim to make your trip as safe and comfort-able as possible. As a traveler, you can also make a differ-ence. The following benefits should help ensure you make the most of your journey.

UP IN THE AIR

SAS’ ACTIONS FOR SUSTAINABLE TRAVELSAS’ overall goals are to reduce the total carbon emissions by 25% and operate with biofuel equivalent to the total consumption of all domestic SAS flights by 2030. Here’s how we’ll do it:

New aircraftIn the past few years, SAS has taken delivery of four new Airbus 330 longhaul aircraft and 24 Airbus 320neos, which have 1518% lower CO2emissions compared with the previous generation A320 (for comparable flights).

In coming years, SAS will take delivery of one additional A330, 56 A320neos and eight Airbus 350s, from the end of 2019. The A350 is expected to be 33% more fuelefficient per seat than the A340 it will replace.

Transition to biofuel Last year, SAS used 100 tonnes of biofuel produced from renewable sources.

SAS’ ambition is to use an increasing amount of biofuel in its daily operations over the coming years.

Numerous projects are ongoing to increase the amount of biofuel available and SAS has signed a letter of intent with energy supplier Preem, aiming at largescale production in Scandinavia.

Customers can upgrade their flight with biofuel (at a cost), in addition to the amount of biofuel that SAS is already using.

CO2 compensationFor the emissions we can’t eliminate today, we carbon offset all SAS tickets for EuroBonus members as well as SAS Youth tickets.

SAS is one of only a few airlines that is ISO 14001 certified, the international standard that specifies requirements for an effective environmental management system (EMS).

FOOD AND DRINKWhen you travel in SAS Plus in Scandinavia, you’ll enjoy free snacks and drinks onboard, which are also available for purchase in SAS Go.

On European flights, depending on the departure time, travel time and destination, you can buy breakfast, meals and snacks in SAS Go or enjoy them free in SAS Plus.

On flights to the US and Asia, meals and drinks are included in SAS Business and SAS Plus. Meals are included in SAS Go, together with one non alcoholic drink with the meal. Additional drinks and snacks are available for purchase. Coffee and tea are always free on SAS flights (except for certain routes). There may be exceptions due to operational pre requisites.

Up in the air

w

instagram.com/laftekompaniet

laftekompaniet.no

facebook.com/laftekompaniet

Laftekompaniet i Scandinavian Traveler 210x280.indd 1 15/03/17 10.32


VÆRSGO1 If it’s everyday luxury or modern home

design you’re after, Værsgo is the place to go. Here, you’ll find the best, most well-known brands within interior design, cooking and decorating. A perfect place to find a gift for anyone! Earn 75 Extra points for every DKr100 spent.

HELLY HANSEN2 The latest winter collection from Helly

Hansen is a blend of Scandinavian design and insight acquired from life in some of the harshest environments. This collection offers the perfect combination of perfor-mance, protection and style to help protect outdoorsy types all over the world. Earn 100 Extra points for every DKr/Nkr 100 spent.

ODD MOLLY3 Odd Molly’s winter collection aims to in-

spire women to forge their own paths and chase their dreams. Every collectio is dedi-cated to all the “Mollys” around the world. Earn 30 Extra points for every SKr100 spent.

VIBHOLM GULD OG SØLV4 Amaze someone you know with a gift from

Vibholm guld og sølv. Here, you’ll find the largest selection of watches and jewelry from the all most popular, well-known brands. Earn 100 Extra points for every DKr100 spent.

RITUALS5 Rituals takes its inspiration from ancient

Eastern traditions, with fragrances created by some of the world’s finest perfumers. Find a special gift or browse the huge product range guaranteed to make your daily rou-tines more exclusive. Earn 100 Extra points for every DKr/SKr/NKr 100 spent both in-store and online.

APOPRO.DK6 Apopro is one of Denmark’s leading online

pharmacists. Here, you can buy skincare and other everyday products and earn Extra points on your purchases. Buy online and treat yourself or a loved one with the best brands in cosmetics and household essen-tials. Earn 50 Extra points for every DKr100 spent at apopro.dk.

EARN POINTS AS YOU SHOP

You probably know that you can spend your EuroBonus points on flights and shopping. But there

are also hundreds of restaurants and experiences that can earn

you points too.

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SAS EuroBonus

GET CLOSER TO YOUR NEXT TRIPSAS EuroBonus is one of the Nordic region’s leading loyalty programs. When you join, the points add up quickly and you’ll soon be on your way again.

SPEND POINTSYou can use points for everything from flights to seat upgrades, car rentals, hotel bookings, shopping in the air and purchases in the SAS

EuroBonus Shop and from SAS partners.

JOIN NOWAnyone can join EuroBonus – the more

the merrier! Sign up free at flysas.com/eurobonus

EARN POINTSYou earn points on SAS, Star Alliance and Widerøe, hotel stays, car rentals, special partner offers and when you pay for pur-chases with a SAS American Express or

SAS Mastercard. In Sweden, Denmark and Norway, you also earn points when shopping

at selected stores, restaurants and cafés.

American ExpressNo fee the first three months when you

apply for SAS EuroBonus American Express Premium or Elite card, and always no fee with Classic. Earn 10–30 EuroBonus

Extra points for every 100 NKr/SKr you spend and earn a two-for-one award ticket

yearly. Visit sas.no/se to read more about all the benefits.

MastercardGet 3,000–10,000 Extra points when you apply for a SAS EuroBonus Mastercard or

SAS EuroBonus Mastercard Premium. Earn 10–25 EuroBonus Extra points for

every 100 DKr/NKr/SKr you spend. Visit sas.dk/no/se for more information

about the benefits.

SAS EuroBonus Mastercard NorwayAER NKr15,000: 28.62% over 12 mths NKr16.786SAS EuroBonus Mastercard Premium Norway

AER NKr50,000: 30.95% over 12 mths NKr57.278

EARN POINTS ON EVERYDAY SHOPPING

With one or more credit cards connected to EuroBonus, you can buy groceries, clothes, gas, furniture and other everyday items and earn EuroBonus Extra points each time. You can shop anywhere, not only with our part-

ners. Soon you’ll have enough for your trip – without even getting on a plane.

We C02 offset all EuroBonus members’ SAS ticketsIn February 2019, SAS began offsetting carbon emissions generated by EuroBonus members on SAS flights.

For many years, SAS travelers have been able to choose to offset CO2 emissions through a special SAS offsetting pro-gram. But since February, SAS has been offsetting carbon emissions generated by all EuroBonus members on all SAS flights.

Here’s how it works: SAS calculates the CO2 footprint generated by the member us-ing travel statistics and emis-sions data. SAS then offsets this amount by investing in carefully selected renewable energy projects via an external partner, The Natural Capital Partners.

This applies to all bookings made using a valid EuroBonus number on all SAS flights.

SAS is aware of its impact on the climate and as a pioneer and responsible airline com-pany, SAS is constantly looking for ways to develop and imple-ment sustain able initiatives.

First and foremost, SAS aims to reduce its carbon emissions by using more efficient aircraft and procedures and by trans-itioning to biofuels.

The EuroBonus CO2 com-pensation scheme is an import-ant part of these initiatives and it embraces and supports the next generation’s traveling choices.

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REACH 187 COUNTRIES AROUND THE WORLD

Worldwide reachSAS and its partners take you to 1,300 airports in 192 countries.

Star Alliance Members Adria Airways, Aegean Airlines, Air Canada,

Air China, Air India, Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, Austrian Airlines, Avianca, Brussels Airlines, Copa Airlines, Croatia Airlines, EgyptAir, Ethiopian Airlines, EVA Air, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Shenzhen Airlines, Singapore Airlines, South African Airways, Swiss Inter-national Air Lines, TAP Portugal, Thai Airways, Turkish Airlines, United Airlines.

Other airline partners Atlantic Airways, Icelandair, Widerøe.

PALMA It’s fast and simple to get from Nice Côte d'Azur

International Airport to the city center and the rest of the French Riviera. Trains leave Terminal 1 start-ing around 6am on weekdays and 9am on week-ends and you can join connections in the center to the rest of the coast. There is also a bus service with around four buses every hour. The journey takes around 15 minutes.

PARIS Charles de Gaulle Airport is well connected by

train and bus services both into Paris, and thanks to the TGV service to other major cities in and beyond France. The regional train (RER) departs every 7–15 minutes and takes 35 minutes to reach Gare du Nord. The bus service Le Bus meanwhile has regular departures to six stops around the city taking up to 70 minutes and costs €17 one-way.


Amsterdam

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E L S A L V A D O R

A N T I G U A & B A R B U D A

S T . K I T T S & N E V I S D O M I N I C A

G R E N A D A

S T . V I N C E N T & T H E G R A N A D I N E S

S T . L U C I A

B A R B A D O S

T R I N I D A D & T O B A G OG U I N E A

S I E R R A L E O N E

C O T E D ' I V O R E

B U R K I N A F A S O

G H A N A

T O G O

B E N I N

N I G E R I A

L I B E R I A

G U L F O F M E X I C O

B A F F I N B A Y

H U D S O N B A Y

G U L F O F G U I N E A

C A R I B B E A N S E A


SAS hub

SAS destination



1,175 DESTINATIONS AROUND THE WORLD

San Salvador

BogotaMedellin

Cali

Grand Cayman

BaranquillaCartagena

Panama City

Mexico CityKona

Lihue

Columbus

Raleigh

GreensboroLos Angeles

Boston

Madeira

Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

Maps the world


Beijing

Hong KongAbu Dhabi

Chennai

Chongqing

Osaka

Nagoya

Xiamen

Sendai

Brisbane

Sydney

Melbourne

Dalian

Shenzhen

Johannesburg

Durban

Port Elizabeth

Shanghai

Tokyo

Mumbai

Delhi

Chiang Mai

Bangkok

Phuket

Jakarta

Adelaide

Perth

Auckland

Denpasar

Chengdu

Fukuoka

Sapporo

Nanjing

Qingdao

Guangzhou

Kuala Lumpur

Bengaluru

I N D I A N O C E A N

P A C I F I C O C E A N

T U R K E Y

S Y R I A

J O R D A NI S R A E L

I R A QI R A N

T U R K M E N I S T A N

U Z B E K I S T A N

A F G H A N I S T A N

P A K I S T A N

I N D I A

R U S S I A

K A Z A K H S T A NM O N G O L I A

C H I N A

N E P A L B H U T A N

B A N G L A D E S H

S R I L A N K A

J A P A N

S O U T H K O R E A

N O R T H K O R E A

B U R M A/ M Y A N M A R

T H A I L A N D

C A M B O D I A

L A O S

V I E T N A M

P H I L I P P I N E S

T A I W A N

S I N G A P O R E

B R U N E I

S O L O M O N I S L A N D S

V A N U A T U

N E W C A L E D O N I A ( F R A N C E )

C H A T H A M I S . ( N E W Z E L A N D )

N E W A M S T E R D A M ( F R A N C E )

C O C O S I S L A N D ( A U S -T R A L I A )

K E R G U E L E N( F R A N C E )

C R O Z E T I S .( F R A N C E )

R E U N I O N( F R A N C E )

S E Y C H E L L E S

M A U R I T I U S

M A L D I V E S

P R I N C E E D W A R D I S L A N D S

( S O U T H A F R I C A )

N O V A J A Z E M L J A

H E A R D I S L A N D( A U S T R A L I A )

G U A M( U S A )

N O R T H E R N M A R I A N A I S L A N D S

( U S A )

M A R C U S ( J A P A N )

B O N I N I S . ( J A P A N )

R Y U K T U I S .( J A P A N )

T U V A L U

N A U R U

P A L A U M I C R O N E S I A

F I J I

M A L A Y S I A

I N D O N E S I A

A U S T R A L I A

P A P U A N E W G U I N E A

N E W Z E A L A N D

K Y R G Y Z S T A N

T A J I K I S T A N

S A U D I A R A B I A

K U W A I T

B A H R A I NQ A T A R

U N I T E D A R A B E M I R A T E S

Y E M E N

O M A N

E G Y P T

S U D A N

S O U T HS U D A N

L E S O T H O

S W A Z I L A N D

M O Z A M B I Q U E

M A D A G A S C A RZ I M B A B W E

Z A M B I A

M A L A W I

T A N Z A N I A

R W A N D A

B U R U N D I

S O M A L I A

E T H I O P I A

E R I T R E A

D J I B O U T I

K E N Y AU G A N D A

B A R E N T S S E A

K A R A S E A

A R A B I A N S E A

B A Y O F B E N G A L

S O U T H C H I N A S E A

T A S M A N S E A

C O R A L S E A

Krabi

Singapore

B E R I N G S E A

S E A O FO K H O T S K


Chicago Detroit

CincinnatiKansas City

Omaha

Des Moines

San Diego

Seattle

Vancouver

Portland

St. Louis

IndianapolisDenver

MinneapolisToronto

Ottawa

Greensboro

Richmond

Nashville

Tampa

Charlotte

Austin

Houston

Mexico City

San Juan

Dallas

Memphis

Montreal

BuffaloRochester

PittsburghCleveland

Columbus Philadelphia

Raleigh

Norfolk

AtlantaPhoenixSanta Ana

Las Vegas

Sacramento

Salt Lake City

Calgary

JacksonvilleNew Orleans

Orlando

Halifax

New York

Boston

Miami

San Francisco Washington D.C.

A ma z o n a s

M i s s i s s i p p i

R i o Gr a n d e

G U L F O F M E X I C O

C A R I B B E A N S E A

H U D S O N B A Y

L A K E S U P E R I O R

L A K E M I C H I G A N

L A K E H U R O N L A K E

O N T A R I O

L A K E W I N N I P E G

G R E A T S L A V E L A K E

L A K E E R I E


U N I T E D S T A T E S

M E X I C O

C U B A

J A M A I C A

D O M I N I C A N R E P .

H A I T I

B E L I Z E

G U A T E M A L A

E L S A L V A D O R

H O N D U R A S

N I C A R A G U A

C O S T A R I C A

P A N A M A

C O L O M B I A

V E N E Z U E L A

E Q U A D O R

G U Y A N A

S U R I N A M

F R E N C H G U Y A N A

P E R U

B O L I V I A

B R A Z I L

C A N A D A

B A H A M A S

A N T I G U A & B A R B U D A

D O M I N I C A

S T L U C I A

B A R B A D O S

G R E N A D AC U R A C A O

A R U B AS T V I N C E N T &

T H E G R E N A D I N E S

S T K I T T S & N E V I S

T R I N I D A D & T O B A G O

B E R M U D A( U N I T E D K I N G D O M )

G A L A P A G O S( E Q U A D O R )

P U E R T O R I C O( U S A )

SAS hub

SAS destination



Fort LauderdaleWest Palm Beach

Los Angeles


San Salvador

Bogota

Medellin

Cali

BaranquillaCartagena

Panama City

Grand Cayman

Maps America

CHICAGO The airport is connected to

Chicago by train using the Blue Line of Chicago ‘L’. It runs 24 hours a day. The transit time from Central Loop to O’Hare International Airport is approxi-mately 40 minutes and a one-way ticket costs around $5.00.

www. joha .dk

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SAS hub

SAS destination



Beijing

Nanjing

Chengdu

Delhi

Chiang Mai

Bangkok

Phuket Krabi

Singapore

Jakarta

Denpasar

Brisbane

SydneyAdelaide

Perth

Melbourne

Kuala Lumpur

Mumbai

Bengaluru

Guangzhou

Dalian

Qingdao

Xiamen

Chongqing

Chennai

Shenzhen

Osaka

Sapporo

Fukuoka

Tokyo

Shanghai

Y e l l o w r i v e r

Y a n g t z e r i v e r

G a n g e s

D a r l i n g

Me

ko

ng

G R E A T A U S T R A L I A N B I G H T

C O R A L S E A

S O U T H C H I N A S E A

E A S T C H I N A S E A

S E A O F J A P A N

S E A O F O K H O T S K

B A Y O F B E N G A L

A N D A M A N S E A

A R A B I A N S E A

J A V A S E A


I N D I A N

O C E A N

A U S T R A L I A

P A P U A N E W G U I N E AI N D O N E S I A

M A L A Y S I A

T H A I L A N D

C A M B O D I A

V I E T N A M

L A O S

B U R M A/ M Y A N M A R

B A N G L A D E S H

N E P A LB H U T A N

C H I N A

I N D I A

S R I L A N K A

P A K I S T A N

A F G H A N I S T A N

T A J I K I S T A N

K Y R G Y Z S T A N

K A Z A K H S T A N

M O N G O L I A

J A P A N

T A I W A N

P H I L I P P I N E S

N O R T H K O R E A

S O U T H K O R E A

R U S S I A

S I N G A P O R E

B R U N E I

H O N G K O N G

P A L A U

M I C R O N E S I A

R Y U K Y U I S L A N D S( J A P A N )

B O N I N I S L A N D S( J A P A N )

T A S M A N I A( A U S T R A L I A )

M A R C U S( J A P A N )

G U A M( U S A )

C O C O S I S L A N D S( A U S T R A L I A )

Nagoya

Sendai

Hong Kong

Maps Asia

SHANGHAI The Shanghai Maglev train,

with its top speed at 430km/h, will take you from Pudong Airport to Longyang Road in just eight minutes. There are also 10 bus lines operating from the airport to different places in the city center. Fares and travel time depend on where you want to go.

NosiLife Adventure Jacket

UN-RIVALLED ANTI-INSECT CLOTHINGNosiLifeOur anti-insect treatment is built into our fabric and offers an outstanding defence against biting insects, lasting the lifetime of the garment.

craghoppers.com


Maps new SAS routes

S A R D I N I A

C R E T EC Y P R O S

C R I M E A

M A L L O R C A

S e i n e

P oD a n u b e

T h a m e s

E l b e

I s t u l a

Rh i n e

L o i r e

Te j o

D o u r o

E b r e

Rh

on

e

F A R O E I S L A N D S

N O R W E G I A N S E A

B A LT I C S E A

L A K E L A D O G A

N O R T H S E A

B A Y O F B I S C A Y

C E LT I C S E A

A E G E A N S E A

A D R I A T I C S E A

I O N I A N S E A

T Y R R H E N I A N S E A

A L B O R A N S E A

B A L E A R I C S E A

B L A C K S E A



S H E T L A N D I S L A N D S

C O R S I C A

S I C I LY

R U S S I A

L I T H U A N I A

L A T V I A

E S T O N I A

F I N L A N D

S W E D E N

T H E N E T H E R L A N D S

B E L G I U M

G E R M A N Y

F R A N C E

S P A I N

P O R T U G A L

M O R O C C O

A L G E R I A T U N I S I A

I T A L Y

G R E E C E

M A LT A

A L B A N I A

F Y R O M

C Z E C H R E P .

H U N G A R YA U S T R I A

T U R K E Y

S W I T Z E R L A N DL I E C H T E N S T E I N

S A N M A R I N O

V A T I C A N S T A T E

L U X E M B O U R G

M O N A C O

A N D O R R A

S L O V A K I A

P O L A N D

U K R A I N E

R U S S I A

B E L A R U S

R O M A N I A

B U L G A R I A

M O L D O V A

S E R B I A

K O S O V OM O N T E N E G R O

B O S N I A A N D H E R Z E G O V I N A

C R O A T I A

S L O V E N I A

N O R W A Y

I C E L A N D

D E N M A R K


R E P . O F I R E L A N D

St. Petersburg

Stavanger

Kristiansand

Haugesund

Bergen

Manchester

Turin

Seville

Valencia

BarcelonaBari

Brussels

Aalborg

Sälen/Trysil

Tromsø

FaroMalaga

London HeathrowLondon Stansted

SAS hub

SAS destination

Seasonal destinationNew routesAs part of an ever-changing program, SAS offers a host of new direct routes each year, both year-round and seasonal. The map here outlines which destina-tions have been added to the network.

Stockholm

Kyiv

Luxembourg

Venice

Aarhus

Chania

Rhodes

Tivat

Zadar

Los Angeles

Copenhagen

Göteborg

Oslo

Beirut

Total Playtime: 14 hours, 3,5 hours per chargeBluetooth 5.0Stereo phone callsVolume and music controlsTouch controlVoice control (Siri, Google Now)Compatible with Android, iOS & Windows

F E A T U R E SSTOCKHOLM( T R U E W I R E L E S S)

www.urbanista.com


Xxxxxxxxxxxxx

MENU

Beverages

Snacks & Sweets

JUICES & SMOOTHIE

A GLASS OF JUICE DKK 10 / NOK 15 / SEK 15 / € 1 / $ 1

SMOOTHIE DKK 15 / NOK 20 / SEK 20 / € 2 / $ 2Froosh smoothie with peach & passion in a smooth blend and exotic taste in a bottle. 15cl.

APPLE MUST DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3Ringi juice made from Aroma apples. 20 cl.Available on selected flights.

COLD DRINK

WATER DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3 Still water from Aquador. 50 cl.Sparkling water from Ramlösa. 33 cl.

SOFT DRINK DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3Coca Cola Zero, Coca Cola, Sprite Zero. 33 cl.

HOT DRINK COFFEE OR TEADKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3Always free onboard except for charter flights.

PASTRY DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3

MUFFINA rich and tasty muffin with lovely caramel, sprinkled with a touch of sea salt.

CHOCOLATE BALLA piece of chocolate heaven, specially made for SAS by Jan Hedh. True artisan bakery.

BARS DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3

RAW BARGet Raw raspberry crumble. Almond butter, Madagascar vanilla, oats and freeze dried raspberries. Gluten free & vegan!

PROTEIN BARSimply Chocolate protein bar with almonds, passion fruit and dark chocolate. Gluten free

SWEET TREATS DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3

CHOCOLATE BARA rich Marabou milk chocolate bar.

Kvikk Lunsj – thin, crispy wafers covered in smooth milk chocolate.Available on Norway domestic.

CANDY BAGGott & Blandat Original – winegume with 30% less sugar will make your tastebuds jump.

NEW ON THE MENU PREMIUM CHOCOLATE BAR DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3Simply Chocolate’s double layer chocolate bar of premium dark chocolate with a center of marzipan made from Valencia almonds.

SALTY TREATS DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3

ALMONDSRoasted & hickory-infused almonds. From This is nuts.

PREMIUM NUT MIXPremium cashews, hazelnuts, almonds,macadamians and pistachios. Gently salted. From This is nuts.

POTATO CRISPS DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3Larssons seasonal potato crisps. Natural, crispy and tasty with sea salt. Directly from the familyfarm Larsviken in Skåne.

Coffee or tea?It’s free

Coffee and tea is free on SAS flights (except certain routes).

ADD A MUFFIN OR A CHOCOLATE BALL FOR ONLY

DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25

/ € 2 / $ 2

GREATDEAL

SAS Menu


MENU

Beverages

Snacks & Sweets

JUICES & SMOOTHIE

A GLASS OF JUICE DKK 10 / NOK 15 / SEK 15 / € 1 / $ 1

SMOOTHIE DKK 15 / NOK 20 / SEK 20 / € 2 / $ 2Froosh smoothie with peach & passion in a smooth blend and exotic taste in a bottle. 15cl.

APPLE MUST DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3Ringi juice made from Aroma apples. 20 cl.Available on selected flights.

COLD DRINK

WATER DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3 Still water from Aquador. 50 cl.Sparkling water from Ramlösa. 33 cl.

SOFT DRINK DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3Coca Cola Zero, Coca Cola, Sprite Zero. 33 cl.

HOT DRINK COFFEE OR TEADKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3Always free onboard except for charter flights.

PASTRY DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3

MUFFINA rich and tasty muffin with lovely caramel, sprinkled with a touch of sea salt.

CHOCOLATE BALLA piece of chocolate heaven, specially made for SAS by Jan Hedh. True artisan bakery. .

BARS DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3

RAW BARGet Raw raspberry crumble. Almond butter, Madagascar vanilla, oats and freeze dried raspberries. Gluten free & vegan!

PROTEIN BARSimply Chocolate protein bar with almonds, passion fruit and dark chocolate. Gluten free

SWEET TREATS DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3

CHOCOLATE BARA rich Marabou milk chocolate bar.

Kvikk Lunsj – thin, crispy wafers covered in smooth milk chocolate.Available on Norway domestic.

CANDY BAGGott & Blandat Original – winegume with 30% less sugar will make your tastebuds jump.

NEW ON THE MENU PREMIUM CHOCOLATE BAR DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3Simply Chocolate’s double layer chocolate bar of premium dark chocolate with a center of marzipan made from Valencia almonds.

SALTY TREATS DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3

ALMONDSRoasted & hickory-infused almonds. From This is nuts.

PREMIUM NUT MIXPremium cashews, hazelnuts, almonds,macadamians and pistachios. Gently salted. From This is nuts.

POTATO CHIPS DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3Larssons seasonal potato crisps. Natural, crispy and tasty with sea salt. Directly from the familyfarm Larsviken in Skåne.

Coffee or tea?It’s free

Coffee and tea is free on SAS flights (except certain routes).

ADD A MUFFIN OR A CHOCOLATE BALL FOR ONLY

DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25

/ € 2 / $ 2

GREATDEAL

BeveragesWINE

SPARKLING WINE DKK 80 / NOK 95 / SEK 95 / € 10 / $ 10Famous Philippe Dublanc sparkling wine with a fresh and harmonious character. 20 cl.Available on Europe and US/Asia flights.

RED / WHITE WINE DKK 65 / NOK 80 / SEK 80 / € 8 / $ 8We are proud to serve our customers a selection of great wines to suit every taste. 18,7 cl.

Let’scelebrate

2 SPARKLING WINE + 2 BAGS OF POTATO CRISPS

DKK 180 / NOK 220 / SEK 220 /

€ 22 / $ 22

CLASSIC LONG DRINKS DKK 80 / NOK 95 / SEK 95 / € 10 / $ 10 Available on Europe & US/Asia flights.

GIN & TONICHarahorn Norwegian gin with Fentimans tonic water.

BLOODY MARYMikkeller premium vodka, true Danish craft.With Bloody Mary mix.

WHISKEY & COKEMackmyra – a Swedish craft whiskey with Coca Cola.

DRINK MIX / SODA DKK 20 / NOK 25 / SEK 25 / € 3 / $ 3 Bloody Mary mix, Fentimans Tonicwater. Available on Europe & US/Asia flights.

GREATDEAL

Go Nuts 1 CARLSBERG + 1 BAG OF

ALMONDS/PREMIUM NUT MIX

DKK 55 / NOK 70 / SEK 70 / € 8 / $ 8

GREATDEAL

BEER

LAGER DKK 55 / NOK 65 / SEK 65 / € 7 / $ 7Organic Dream from Mikkeller is fresh, crisp and easy drinking beer. This organic hoppy lager is filled with notes of lemon peel, peach and grapefruit. 33 cl.

DKK 45 / NOK 55 / SEK 55 / € 6 / $ 6Carlsberg lager beer. A classic with a crispy taste of malt and honey. 33 cl. ALE DKK 80 / NOK 105 / SEK 105 / € 11 / $ 11Wing Pin Series ale from Mikkeller, SAS Spontancherry. A barrel aged sour ale with Danish cherries from Frederiksdal. 37,5 cl. Available on US/Asia flights.

NON-ALCOHOLIC BEER DKK 45 / NOK 55 / SEK 55 / € 6 / $ 6Drink’in the sky from Mikkeller. Hazy orange body with hints of grass and apricot, 0,3%. 33 cl.

SPIRITS / AVEC DKK 65 / NOK 75 / SEK 75 / € 8 / $ 8 Available on Europe & US/Asia flights.

GINHarahorn Norwegian gin. Made to perfection and multiple award winner.

VODKAMikkeller premium vodka, true Danish craft.Exceptionally smooth taste.

WHISKYMackmyra – a Swedish classic. Powerful and spicy.

COGNAC VSOP Moyet Fine Champagne.

IRISH CREAM Baileys Irish Cream, rich, creamy.

180

SAS Menu

Xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Light meals Nordic Available after 9 a.m. on selected flights within the Nordic countries.

POLARBRÖD SOURDOUGH ROLL– ON SELECTED FLIGHTS DKK 30 / NOK 35 / SEK 35 / € 3 / $ 3 Polar bread roll filled with two different flavors, cheese and a daily flavor. Ask your cabin crew for today’s flavor

Europe Breakfast is available until 9 a.m. All other meals are available on selected flights after 9 a.m. Except charter flights.

BREAKFAST BOX DKK 65 / NOK 85 / SEK 85 / € 9 / $ 9Yoghurt with fruit and roasted granola. Selection of warm bread. Assorted local cold cuts, cheese and vegetables. Served with juice. Coffee or tea.

NEW ON THE MENU ORGANIC SANDWICH DKK 60 / NOK 70 / SEK 70 / € 7 / $ 7Choose between pulled chicken with nordic hummus & cabbage or a cheese & cucumber sandwich.

PIZZA SLICE DKK 45 / NOK 55 / SEK 55 / € 6 / $ 6Delicious Italian tomato & mozzarella pizza.Served warm.

SEASONAL SALAD DKK 70 / NOK 85 / SEK 85 / € 9 / $ 9A well composed salad with seasonal ingredients. Please ask your cabin crew for our seasonal flavor.

Pre-order and have it your way!

Plan your next trip in advance. Read more on

www.sas.dk/no/se.

Organic danish treat

Organic sandwich at your choice and an organic Mikkeller beer – choose between

”Organic Dream” or ”Drink’in the Sky” (non-alcoholic beer)

DKK 100 / NOK 120 / SEK 120 / € 12 / $ 12

US/Asia Available after 9 a.m. on selected US/Asia flights.

CHICKEN NOODLES DKK 25 / NOK 30 / SEK 30 / € 3 / $ 3The original instant cup ramen.Served warm.

PIZZA SLICE DKK 45 / NOK 55 / SEK 55 / € 6 / $ 6Delicious Italian tomato & mozzarella pizza.Served warm.Available on selected US flights.Fresh and

organic combo Organic sandwich of your choice

and a fruity smoothie

DKK 65 / NOK 80 / SEK 80 / € 8 / $ 8

GREATDEAL

GREATDEAL

Please note: exceptions may occur due to flight/and or destination. All menu items are subject to change according to seasonality and availability and can be sold out. It is only permitted to consume alcoholic beverages bought from SAS onboard service, which is for onboard consumption only. No alcohol will be served to anyone that appears intoxicated or under 18 years old. For flights to/from Alicante, Antalya, Faro, Gazipasa, Las Palmas, Palma de Mallorca and Malaga up to three alcoholic beverages are complimentary when you travel in SAS PLUS.

PAYMENT INFO New regulations for credit card payments within the European Economic Area affect onboard payments. Until a permanent payment system is in place, there is an interim procedure which unfortunately comes with a number of limitations:

• Magnetic stripe card payments may not be performed.• Card payments can only be made in Swedish kronor (SEK). Travelers whose cards are linked to currencies other than SEK

may be subject to an exchange fee. Please, contact your card supplier for terms & conditions.• EuroBonus points may not be used as payment.• Contactless payment is not supported, and a PIN code is required for payments of SEK 1 – 4.000.

Cash payments in SEK, NOK, DKK, EUR, GBP and USD are accepted.

We apologize for the inconvenience and look forward to introducing a new enhanced payment system for our travelers as soon as possible.

181


SAS Menu

he new sandwiches on the SAS menu are completely organic and made with exclusively Scandinavian

ingredients. Danish catering company Bon Appetit has been working on the new sandwiches since May to get ready for the premiere this month.

“We’re really pleased with the results,” says Dorte Rosenkrantz-Kavsman, Sales Director and co-owner of Bon Appetit. “Our collaboration with SAS has been very dynamic and the people working with Food & Beverage at SAS are con-stantly challenging us, which is very good for the partnership.”

One of the biggest issues has been to be able to offer organic sandwiches using only Scandinavian ingredients all year

Our daily breadFor a taste of something different, try SAS’ new sandwiches on your next flight.

Tround, she added, although they have worked out a solution that suits the part-ners, and hopefully SAS’ travelers.

The new sandwiches will be available in two different variants – pulled chicken with Nordic hummus, and cheese and cucumber.

“We’ve chosen to maximize flavor,” says Rosenkrantz-Kavsman “For exam-ple, we have juicy chicken meat, and rath-er than importing Italian olive oil and cheese, we’ve used rapeseed oil and local organic cheese.”

THE ENVIRONMENT OF an airplane makes it tricky to serve cold sandwich-es that still taste fresh because bread re-acts and tastes different up in the air. To get around this, the company is using a small organic bakery in Denmark that has helped Bon Appetit with its production.

It’s not just the food itself that has to be right, though – the packaging the sand-wiches come in is a major consideration in terms of sustainability. Here, too, they have found a solution. The plastic and paper are 100% recyclable as well as the adhesive used to attach the label.

“These may seem like quite small mea-sures, but when it comes to such large volumes, every small step is important and necessary for a better environment,” says Rosenkrantz-Kavsman, who runs the family business together with her sister, Lotte Kavsman, who is CEO. Both are deeply committed at every stage of the cycle, says Rosenkrantz-Kavsman.

“It’s easy to think that there’s some big factory behind a box of food that you buy on a plane. But that’s really not the case. We are down in the kitchen and doing hands-on work as well.”

ON THE MENU

Dorte Rosenkrantz- Kavsman and Lotte

Kavsman.

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One step beyond - Scandinavian Traveler

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