New approaches in Chinese Craftsmanship: 2008-2014

MA#CCD#2014#Dissertation:#New#Approaches#in#Chinese#Craftsmanship:#2008;2014############################Skye#Y#Mo#

1#

#

Introduction*

#

The# Arts# and# Crafts# Movement# is# one# of# the# most# profound# and# far;reaching#

design# movements# of# modern# times.# It# has# influenced# social# reform# across# a#

broad#spectrum#of#society,#at#all#levels.#Chinese#manufacturers#currently#have#a#

unique# potential# to# shed# their# reputation# as# the# “World’s# factory”# for# poor#

quality# ‘Made# in# China’# products,# and# reinvent# themselves.# After# the# global#

recession#and#hosting#the#Olympics#in#2008,#the#whole#country#has#been#quick#to#

focus# on# becoming# self;sufficient,# both# materially# and# culturally.# Traditional#

Chinese# craftsmanship# has# intersected# with# a# number# of# sustainability# issues,#

across#art,#design#and#manufacturing;#urban#and#rural#alike.#The#Arts#and#Crafts#

Movement#promoted# ideas#of#craftsmanship,# individualism,#and#the# integration#

of# art# into# everyday# life,# aiming# to#bring# artistic# taste# to# industrial# production.#

Emphasis#was#put#on#the# importance#of# finished#work#by# individual#craftsmen.#

The#Arts#and#Crafts#movement#was#shown#cooperative#production#intended#for#

commercial#manufacture,#which#can#induct#into#Chinese#circumstances.##

#

China# preserved# ancient# wisdom# in# harmony# with# mother;nature# until# the#

Second# World# War# and# the# rapid# pace# of# urban# growth# and# industrialisation#

from# the#West.# Putting# the# blurry# chronology# of# Chinese#modern#design# aside,#

Chinese#Craft#culture#has#been#more#consistent.#Rising#from#the#Warring#States#

Period,#Chinese#craftsmen#have#played#an#important#role#throughout#the#last#two#

thousand#years.#Coincidentally,#Arts#and#Craft’s#iconic#style#such#as#‘nature#motif’,#

‘vernacular’# and# ‘true# to#materials’#were#already#a# shared#value#within#various#

Chinese# vernacular# crafts# since# ancient# times.# Robert# Blauner# captures# the#

opportunity# of# today# in#Work% Satisfaction% and% Industrial% Trends:# “In# modern#

society#there#is#far#greater#scope#for#skill#and#craftsmanship#than#in#any#previous#

society.”##

#

The#scope#of#this#paper#does#not#include#examining#the#variety#of#styles#in#either#

Chinese# craftsmanship# history# or# the# 19th# Century#Arts# and# Crafts#Movement.#

That#is#a#broad#and#interesting#topic#deserving#of#it’s#own#focused#research.#


2#

#

1. A*touch*of*Chinese*Arts*and*Crafts*and*Lessons*from*Arts*and*Crafts*

Movement*

China#was# absent# from# the# original#Arts# and#Crafts#Movement# for# complicated#

reasons,# ‘arts# and# crafts’# under#Chinese# context#means# traditional# Chinese# fine#

art# and# decorative# art,# although# commonly# understood# to# be# ‘art# and# design’.#

However,#pioneers#in#the#Chinese#art#education#system#such#as#Cai#Yuanpei,#Pang#

Xunqin#and#Zheng#Ke#were#already#trying#to# introduce#ideas#from#the#Arts#and#

Crafts#Movement#over#a#century#ago.##

#

Cai# Yuanpei,# a# famous# Chinese# educator,# held# influential# positions# such# as# the#

Minister# of# Education# (1912)# and# the# chancellor# of# Peking# University# (1917).#

One# of# his# most# cogent# proposals# was# to# promote# aesthetic# education# as# an#

essential# part# of# the# new# education# system,# which# should# be# substituted# for#

former# religious# worship# indoctrination.# He# believed# that,# through# aesthetic#

sensitivity,#the#innermost#desires#and#feelings#of#humanity#are#revealed.#He#saw#

aesthetic# education# as# a# bridge# between# the# phenomenal# and# the# noumenal#

world.#His#persistent#promotion#of#aesthetic#education#pushed#schools#to#gave#an#

important# place# to# teach# artistic# subjects.# Giving# a# speech# to# the# Sino4French%

Educational%Association1#in#April,#1916,#Cai#Yuanpei#examined#aspects#of#Chinese#

decorative# art:# the# natural# materials# (minerals,# flora# and# fauna),# trade# skills#

(engraving,# casting,# inlaying,# embroidery# and# painting),# subjects# (geometry,#

nature,# humans# and# societal,# religious# or# mythological# events)# and# objects#

(human# bodies,# clothes,# wares,# interiors,# architectures# and# cities).# He# stated#

“Decorative#art,#the#most#common#form#of#art....#when#human#wisdom#developed,#

the# decoration# will# extend# outside# from# the# original# range.# The# decoration# of#

body# as# yet# in# uncivilized# ear,# the#decoration#of# city,# however# can#only# attract#

attention#of# a# developed# country.# From#private# to# public,# from#near# to# far,# the#

state#of#decoration#can#survey#a#nations#situation.”2#Which#is#one#of#his#earliest#

opinions#towards#arts#and#crafts#that#impacted#on#society.#

#

########################################################1 In 1913, Cai moved to France where he studied French and assisted in running the Educational Institute for Chinese Labourers and in organizing the Sino- French Educational Association. intend to “developing communication between China and France, learning French science, philosophy and art.”#2 Hang#J,#Then%Kindness%of%Design%(��'&��),#Guangxi#Normal#University#Press,#2011.#


3#

#

After#1949,#aiming#to#save#traditional#craftsmanship#from#extinction,#the#Chinese#

government#organized#craftsmen#and#folk#artists#to#produce#and#sell#works#in#an#

Arts#and#Crafts#Service#Center#(�� ).#At#one#time,#these#departments#

existed#in#almost#every#major#Chinese#city,#with#various#religious,#royal,#artistic,#

and# folk# crafts# being# sold# inside.# Moreover,# to# support# domestic# industrial#

production,# traditional# crafts# were# exported# as# a#major# national# output# value,#

exchanged#with#foreign#countries#as#primitive#capital#accumulation.#In#1954#the#

State# Council# established# the# Central# General# Bureau# of# Handicraft# and# the#

Ministry#of#Culture#organized#the#first#"National#Folk#Arts#and#Crafts#Exhibition".#

After#1958,#its#merged#into#Ministry#of#Light#Industry,#1965#the#Central#General#

Bureau#of#Handicraft#replaced#by#the#Second#Ministry#of#Light#Industry,#“as#many#

of# the# former#handicraft# industries#under# the#old#bureau#had#now#upgraded# in#

technology,# complexity,# or# volume# of# production.# Some# of# these,# including# a#

carpentry#shops,#clothing#factories#and#shoe#factories,#were#upgrade#handicrafts#

enterprises#that#had#started#production#before#1949.”3#

#

The# Central# Academy# of# Arts# and# Crafts# (now# Tsinghua# University# Arts# and#

Design# Academy)# reaffirmed# the# concept# of# “Arts# and# Crafts”# in# 1956# with#

significant# contributions# from# both# Pang# Xunqing# and# Zheng# Kuan.# This#

continues#to#be#the#definitive#definition#in#China,#to#this#day.#

#

1.1. Irreplaceable+HANDicraft++

As# Christopher# Frayling# states,# these# skills# are# not# readily# acquired# without#

practice:#

#

“In#the#course#of#many#years,#many#things#became#clear#to#me#in#theory…but#

there# were# mysteries# about# getting# the# finish,# which# I# never# properly#

fathomed.#Bookish#training#was#too#feeble#to#enter#into#these#final#secrets;#

evidently# there# was# something# more,# only# revealed# to# skilled# hands# and#

eyes#after#years#of#experiment.4”#

########################################################3 Blecher, Marc J.(1996) Tethered deer: government and economy in a Chinese county. Stanford University Press#4 Frayling, C. (2012). On Craftsmanship: towards a new Bauhaus. Oberon Books. #


4#

#

#

The#mystery#of#human#hands#is#still#subtle#to#me#as#an#amateur,#however,#with#

proof# from# various# subdivisions# of# craftsmen:# woodworkers,# weavers,#

embroidery# women,# and# pottery# makers,# it# is# not# hard# to# believe# that# no#

machine#yet#conceived#or#hereafter#buildable,#will#ever#equal#the#‘fine#machinery’#

of# human# fingers.# Moreover,# with# the# head# as# a# laboratory,# providing# a#

thoughtful,# reflective# attitude# towards# craft# and# design# –# research# into# craft,#

research# through# craft,# craft# as# research,# and# the#heart#pointing#out# the# future#

direction# of# visual# culture# and# creative# industries# with# further# hurdles# for#

machines# to#compare#with.# # “The#synergies#work#of# this# three#part:# thoroughly#

perfect# art# is# that#which#proceeds# from# the#heart,#which# involves# all# the#noble#

emotions,# associates# these#with# the# head,# yet# as# inferior# to# the# heart;# and# the#

hand,#yet#as#inferior#to#the#heart#and#head;#and#thus#brings#out#the#whole#man.”5##

1.1. Dddddd+

1.2. Humanity+and+Machinery+

#

When# William# Morris# reprinted# the# section# subtitled# And% Herein% of% the% True%

Functions% of% the% Workman% in% Art# from# the# book# The% Nature% of% Gothic# at# the#

Kelmscott#Press#in#1892,#he#commented#in#the#preface:#

#

For# the# lesson#which#Ruskin# here# teaches# us# is# that# art# is# the# expression# of#

man’s# pleasure# in# labor;# that# it# is# possible# for# man# rejoice# in# his# work,# for#

strange#as#it#may#seem#to#us#today…If,#however,#by#that#more#intelligent#labor#

legislation#at#which#we#seek# to#arrive,#we#delimit#machine#production# in# the#

interest# of# the# community# as# a# whole,# we# inevitably# make# for# status# in#

craftsmanship,#status#through#skill.#

#

It#should#be#clear,#that#the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement#is#concerned#with#people,#

specifically:#skilled#craftsmen,#who#possessed#valuable#intangible#heritage#which#

was#only#maintained#in#their#hands#and#soul.#Richard#Sennett,#the#author#of#The%

Craftsman,# defines# the# word# ‘craft’# as# ‘the# desire# to# do# a# job# well# for# its# own#

########################################################5 Frayling, C. (2012). On Craftsmanship: towards a new Bauhaus. Oberon Books. #


5#

#

sake.’6#Under# this# definition,# it’s# easier# to# understand#why# the# Arts# and# Crafts#

Movement#was#pervasive#as#both#a#social#and#artistic#movement:#for#artisans#it#

extolled# the# virtues# of# honest#workmanship,# respect# to#materials,# and,# ideally,#

functional#individual#craftsmanship.#For#patrons#it#instilled#an#appreciation#of#art#

in# everyday# life# and# avoiding# # ‘the# slavery# of# Capitalist# Commerce’,#which# also#

emphasized#social#reform#through#workshop#practices#instead#of#dehumanizing#

mass#production#and#industrialization.#Karen#Livingstone,#as#the#curator#of#2005#

V&A#International%Arts%and%Crafts#exhibition,#emphasised#that#it#is#the#right#time#

to#re;introduce#Arts#and#Crafts#as#“a#new#organic#spirit”#to#contemporary#design#

and# society.# “Those# early# intellectual# ideas# have# grown# a# century# into# more#

fundamental#issues#about#how#to#live#in#this#world#and#how#to#treat#this#world.”7##

#

A#common#misunderstanding#of#the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement#is#to#consider#it#as#

a##“Luddite#desire#to#reject#the#Industrial#Revolution”.#Even#though,#when#Ruskin#

states#“You#must#either#make#a#tool#of#the#creature,#or#a#man#of#him.#You#can#not#

make# both.# Men# were# not# intended# to# work# with# the# accuracy# of# tools,# to# be#

precise#and#perfect#in#all#their#actions.”8,#he#was#speaking#against#the#de;skilled,#

inhumane# working# condition# of# sweatshop# and# stood# against# the# use# of#

machines.#At#the#time#of#C.R#Ashbee's#Guild#of#Handicraft,#he#also#addressed#this#

idea#"We#do#not#reject#the#machine,#we#welcome#it.#But#we#would#desire#to#see#it#

mastered."9#Karen#Livingstone#defended#the#movement#in#an#interview#with#the#

New#York#Times#in#2005:#

#

"One# of# the#myths# about# the#Arts# and#Crafts#Movement# is# that# it#was# just#

about# things#made#by#hand,# it#was#also#about# improving# industrial#design,#

and# they# were# happy# to# work# with# industry# as# long# as# it# was# done#

properly."10#

#

########################################################6 Sennett, R. (2008). The craftsman. Yale University Press.#7 Suzy Menkes: Arts and Crafts: A new organic spirit in fashion NYT, 17 May 2005 [ONLINE] Available at:#http://www.nytimes.com/2005/05/16/style/16iht-fcraft.html [Accessed at 24 April 2014]#8 Ruskin, J. (1977). The nature of Gothic: A chapter of the stones of Venice (Vol. 1). Dissertations-G. Pp88#9 Ashbee C R. A few chapters in workshop re-construction and citizenship [M]. The Guild and School of Handicraft, 1894.#10 Suzy Menkes: Arts and Crafts: A new organic spirit in fashion NYT, 17 May 2005 [ONLINE] Available at:#http://www.nytimes.com/2005/05/16/style/16iht-fcraft.html [Accessed at 24 April 2014]#


6#

#

In# her# view,# the# movement# is# clearly# in# opposition# to# “ruthless# commercial#

expansion”# that# sacrafices# the#essence#of# craft# itself.#A# father;figure# in# the#Arts#

and#Crafts#movement,#William#Morris,#still#continues#to,#posthumously# through#

his#writings,#raise#pertinent#issues#regarding#the#environment,#sustainability#and#

the# work;life# balance.# “Arts# and# Crafts# was# against# ruthless# commercial#

expansion,# the# cynical# proliferation# of# the# useless,# the# squalor# and# pollution#

carelessly#created#by#industrial#production,#against#monotony#and#deadening#of#

the# human# spirit.”11#It# successfully# restored# art# in# everyday# life# at# a# personal#

level,# but# it# also# embraced# the# emancipation# and# recognition# of# everyone#

involved,# from# the#ordinary#worker,# to# the#burgeoning#middle# class#and#a#new#

generation# of# artists,# designers,# manufacturers# and# patrons.It# was# the# first#

movement#to#be#directed#at#the#reform#of#art#in#every#level.##

#

Around#the#same#time#as#Europe’s#industrial#revolution#and#the#beginning#of#the#

Arts#and#Crafts#Movement,#Cai#Yuanpei# subscribed# to#William#Morris’s#opinion#

and#stated#"The#importance#of#Aesthetics#to#all#society#is#obvious#in#any#period.#

However# the# modern# civilization# distanced# art# away# from# everyone# except#

artists.#Those#sweatshop#craftsmen,#who#are#unbearably#bored#working#without#

any# artistry# and# creativity# involved# ...# Recently,# the# Arts# and# Crafts#Movement#

and#William#Morris’# theories#could#be#a#valuable#case# to#study."#Unfortunately,#

those#very#early#ideas#missed#their#opportunity#due#to#rapid#changes#in#China’s#

society.”12##

#

In# retrospect,# the# movement# challenged# the# hierarchy# of# the# arts# to# raise# the#

status#of#craftsmen.#It#also#advocated#social#reform#through#improved#workshop#

conditions,#a#return#to#workshops#production#and#a#simpler#way#of# life.#Morris#

delivered#a#lecture#before#the#Secular#Society#of#Leicester#on#January#23rd#1884,#

describing# himself# as# feeling# “dazed# at# the# thought# of# the# immensity# of# work#

which# is# undergone# for# the#making# of# useless# things”#13;# this# anti;consumerist#

########################################################11 Fiona MacCarthy��The old romantics The Guardian 5 Mar, 2005 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/books/2005/mar/05/1 [Accessed at 24 April 2014]#12 Hang Jian, History and Reality – the difference between Chinese craft history and design history 15 Dec 2011 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.chinanap.org/blog/content/2011-12-15/494.html [Accessed at 24 August 2014] (Translated by Skye Mo)#13 Victoria and Albert Museum: Power of Making - Press Release [ONLINE] Available at:


7#

#

message#has#been#quoted#with#reference#during#the#recession#of#2008#and#2010,#

reaffirmed# the# idea# of# simplifying# our# lives# and# getting# rid# of# useless# luxuries#

from#what#Morris#described#as#‘the#slavery#of#Capitalist#Commerce’.##

#

Although#almost#every#reference#would#say#this#movement#ended#due#to#World#

War# One,# it# is# clearly# an# influential# root# in# modernism,# as# it# established# a#

profound# sensitivity# to# materials,# designers# and# forms# across# almost# whole#

Europe,# North# America# and# Japan.# It’s# understandable# to# believe# the# Arts# and#

Crafts#Movement#is#still#alive#if#you#take#account#of#how#many#of#it’s#values#are#

still#held#in#the#twenty;first#century.#In#2012,#Beijing#Design#Week,#a#government#

sponsored# annual# event# to# nurture# a# culture# of# design# in# a# Chinese# context,#

highlighted#a#theme#of#“Craft#Thinking”.#Aric#Chen,#the#Creative#Director#stated:#

#

“China#has#amazed#the#world#with#its#ability#to#build#roads#and#bridges,#and#

factories# and# supply# chains# ;# the# hardware# and# infrastructure# that# have#

fueled#the#spectacular#rise#of#our#manufacturing#economy.#But#as#we#set#our#

sights#on#design#and#innovation,#we#need#to#shift#focus:#from#hardware#and#

infrastructure# to# software# and# people,# from# quantity# to# quality,# from#

appearances#to#substance,#from#simply#constructing#shiny#new#buildings#to#

caring#more#about#what#happens#inside#them.”14#

#

1.3. The+Legacy+and+Impact+of+the+Arts+and+Crafts+Movement+

C.#R.#Ashbee,#another#thought;leader#of#the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement,#set#up#the#

Guild# of# Handicrafts# in# 1888# to# put# Arts# and# Crafts# theory# into# practice.# After#

running# the# guild# for# several# years,# Ashbee# realised# that# 19th# century# British#

society#was#not# in#good#condition# for#practising# ideas# from#the#Arts#and#Crafts#

Movement,#a#feeling#shared#by#one#of#his#guild#shareholder’s:##

#

“From#what#I#have#seen#and#know#of#it,#I#have#long#felt#it#to#be#a#piece#of#real#

###############################################################################################################################################################http://www.vam.ac.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0004/178663/Power_of_Making_-_Press_Release.pdf [Accessed at 24 August 2014]#14 Aric CHEN, About Beijing Design Week 2012 Beijing Design Week, 2 Apr 2012 [ONLINE] Available at: http://2012.bjdw.org/en/about_article/?id=200&cid=35 [Accessed at 24 August 2014]#


8#

#

civilization#in#industry,#combining#not#merely#a#corporate#interest#in#the#work#

done,# but# a# corporate# life# outside#work…The# Guild# in# short# has# been# a# real#

society#not#an#aggregation#of#“hands.”#It#is#this#that#I#have#always#admired#in#it,#

and# I# think# it#a#matter#of#very#great#regret# that# this# little#oasis#of#human# life#

should#be#submerged#in#the#unintelligent#ocean#of#competitive#industry.”15#

#

Although#the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement#didn’t#work#out# in#Britain,# it#expanded#

it’s#influence#to#a#number#of#l#countries#in#Europe,#North#America#and#even#Japan.#

The#reason#that#the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement#can#induct# into#different#culture#

throughout# time# and# space# so# easily# is# because# it# allows# an# opportunity# for#

developing# a# unique# style# and# expression# that# reflected# the# confidence# and#

prosperity# of# its# own.# When# it# first# gained# traction# in# America# around# 1890,#

Native#American#Indian#culture#and#craft#was#particularly#in#vogue.#“Traditional#

Indian#crafts#were#featured#in#Arts#and#Crafts#publication#and#homes,#and#were#

used# as# a# source# of# inspiration# for# new#work#while# powerful# images# recorded#

aspects# of# the# lives# of# the#native#nations.”16#In# the# early# 20th# century,# a# freshly#

unified# Germany# who# urgently# needed# to# developing# its# national# economy,#

proved# to# be# adept# at# using# technology# to# streamline# their# manufacturing#

industry# to# achieve# efficient# production# without# sacrificing# quality# in# their#

products.# It# was# legitimate# to# so,# which# explored# a# brand# new# level# achieved#

harmony# among# artistic# inspiration,# mastered# manufacturing# and# modern#

industrialization.# Gropius'# Bauhaus# was# a# typical# response# to# Arts# and# Crafts,#

that# tried# to# square# its# democratic# philosophy# with# mass# manufacturing.# The#

relationship# between# art,# craft# and# industry# was# perhaps# most# successful# in#

German# with# a# prime# example# being# the# Bauhaus# itself.# “In# retrospect,# the#

German# interpretation# of# Arts# and# Crafts# proved# to# be# one# of# the# most# long;

lasting#and#influential.”17#

#

#

#

########################################################15 Ashbee C R. Craftsmanship in competitive industry [M] Garland Press, 1977.#16 Karen Livingstone. Essential Arts and Crafts [M]. V& A Publications, 2005.#17 Victoria and Albert Museum website: Arts & Crafts: Europe 1890 - 1914 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/a/arts-and-crafts-europe-1890-1914/ [Accessed at 24 April 2014]#


9#

#

1.3.1. Arts+and+Crafts+education+

The#prestigious#Bauhaus,#a#great#example#of#modern#development#influenced#by#

the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement,# established#genuinely# contemporary#expression#

in# Arts# and# Crafts# education.# However,# just# like#Walter# Crane’s# curriculum# in#

London# and#W.R.# Lethaby’s# basic# design# cause,# pioneered#within# the# arts# and#

crafts#school#curriculum#in#Britain,#all#were#models#for#the#Bauhaus#equivalent.#

Education#was#crucial# to#ensure# that#everyone#was#capable#of# ‘honourable#and#

fitting# work’18,# despite# the# fact# that# Bauhaus# has# been# hailed# in# China# as# the#

beginning#of#modern#design#history#without#enough#attention#and#respect#given#

to#it’s#main#influence,#the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement.#

#

For# Morris,# Crane,# Lethaby# and# Gropius,# Arts# and# Crafts# education# is# distinct#

from#all# other# art# education#by# the# fact# that#Arts# and#Crafts# students# have# the#

capability#of#self;sufficient#with#their#skills.#As#William#Morris#said#himself:##

#

“The#point#of# the#arts,# is# to#give#us#hope.#Art#and#Crafts#students#are#already#

five#times#more#likely#to#be#self;employed#than#any#other#university#graduates,#

and# they# are# particularly# good# at# constructing#worlds# around# themselves# in#

very#entrepreneurial#and#improvisatory#ways.”19#

#

Walter# Crane’s# celebrated# slogan# ‘The# true# root# and# basis# of# all# Art# lies# in# the#

handicrafts’#became#Walter#Gropius’s#even#more#celebrated#clarion;call#of#1919,#

urging#artists#to#‘turn#to#the#crafts’.#However,#what#he#really#wrote#was#‘we#must#

return#to#the#crafts’:#meaning#the#contemporary#crafts,+and#especially#those#up;

to;date#ones,#which#would#be#available#in#the#local#region.#Not#a#return,#or#a#U;

turn,# but# a# straightforward# ‘turn’.# Individual#makers,# craftsmen# and# designers,#

work# with# companies,# workshops# and# art# schools# exploring# the# design# and#

manufacturing# of# good# quality,# everyday# goods# as# a# means# of# boosting# local#

economies,# and# to# encourage# social# reform# while# also# lifting# the# status# of#

########################################################18 William Morris: Art and Socialism: a lecture delivered by William Morris before the Secular Society of Leicester on 23 January 1884 [ONLINE]Available at: http://www.leicestersecularsociety.org.uk/docs/artandsocialism.pdf [Accessed at 24 April 2014]#19 Frayling, C. (2012). On Craftsmanship: towards a new Bauhaus. Oberon Books. #


10#

#

decorative#arts.#With#those#thoughts,#the#real#moral#of#the#uniting#of#the#arts#with#

industry# –# remained# at# its# heart# as# an# arts# and# crafts# school:# indeed# by# all#

accounts#it#was#the#monastic#aspects#of#life#there#which,#educationally,#seemed#to#

work#best.##

#

Meanwhile,# the# Bauhaus# model# was# being# translated# into# other# educational#

experiments:# Chicago# in# the# 1940s,# Dartington# in# the# early# 1950s,# Ulm# in# the#

1960s#and#so#on.#In#China,#Pang#Xunqin,#the#founder#of#Central#Academy#of#Arts#

and#Crafts#(current#Tsinghua#University#Arts#and#Design#Academy)#influenced#by#

the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement#during#his#studies#in#France#in#1925#and#later#his#

visit# to# the# Bauhaus# in# 1929.# Although# he#was# impressed# by# Bauhaus# and# it’s#

educational# achievement,#when#he#was#preparing# the#Central#Academy#of#Arts#

and#Crafts#in#1956,#he#decided#to#start#with#Arts#and#Crafts#theory#and#practice#

to#reduce#the#machinery#required#to#establish#the#first#Arts#and#Crafts#Academy#

in#China.#

#

1.3.2. Arts+and+Crafts+theory+in+other+socially+field+

Other#than#style,#the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement#springs#into#a#shared#belief#in#a#

better,# more# convenient# way# of# living,# the# ideas# of# growth,# regeneration# and#

universality.# It# was# also# a# set# of# principles# and# standards# to# define# quality# in#

products,#environment#sustainability#as#well#as# #mankind#wellbeing.#Aric#Chen,#

reaffirmed#this#‘standard’#idea,#‘Craft#Thinking’#at#Beijing#Design#Week#in#2012:#

#

“Craft#Thinking#is#about#developing#a#constant#awareness#of#what#we’re#doing#

and# how# we’re# doing# it,# whatever# it# may# be# ;# whether# it’s# cooking# a# meal,#

creating# a# product,# or# even# building# a# city.# Craft# Thinking# requires# doing#

things#authentically#and#responsibly,#and#it#applies#to#everyone,#at#all#levels#of#

society.#”20#

#

There# are# numerous# examples# of# prolific# members# of# the# Arts# and# Crafts#

########################################################20 Aric Chen, About 2012 Beijing Design Week [ONLINE] Available at: http://2012.bjdw.org/en/about_article/?id=200&cid=35 [Accessed at 24 August 2014]#


11#

#

Movement#taking#initiative#in#other#areas#to#achieve#the#goals#of#the#movement.#

To#quote#from#the#press#release#of#an#exhibition#titled#Anarchy%&%Beauty:%William%

Morris%and%His%Legacy:#

#

"…# how# his# radical# ideals# developed# through# the# Edwardian# decade,#

highlighting#Patrick#Geddes,#Raymond#Unwin#and#the#Garden#City#movement#

and# the# way# in# which# ‘good# design’# became# available# to# a# wider# market#

through#such#pioneering#home#furnishing#shops#as#Ambrose#Heal’s."#

#

Morris# founded# the# Society# of# Protection# of#Ancient#Buildings# (SPAB)# in# 1877,#

which#aimed#to#preserve#ancient#buildings#in#London.#Given#that#‘Londoners#are#

by#no#means#well#informed#as#to#the#architectural#treasures#they#possess’#it#was#

resolved# that#a#register#of#ancient#buildings#would#minimise# the# threat# to#such#

edifices21,#which#we#are#able#to#see#till#today.#Frank#Pick#was#strongly#influenced#

by# Morris# and# Ruskin# while# designed# the# London# Underground# System.# He#

accepted#and#understood# the#needs# for#mechanization#and#mass#production# in#

applying# art# to# industry# and# commerce.# With# his# design# principle# ‘fitness# for#

purpose’,22#aimed#at# improving#design#and#society# in# the#20th#century,#evolved#

from# the#Arts# and#Crafts# idea# of# ‘utility’,# he# created# the# # London#Underground#

System# visual# design# as# a# ‘best# established# tradition’# to# the# widest# audiences#

until# today.# The# Garden# City#Movement# also# evolved# from# the# Arts# and# Crafts#

ideology# and# changed# London# from# an# over;polluted#Victorian#metropolis# into#

today’s#“greenest#city#of#its#size#in#the#world”.23##

#

The#ideas#from#the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement#also#appeared#in#other#twentieth;

century# art# movements# and# resonated# with# creative# individuals,# such# as#

Scandinavian# modern# and# a# breadth# of# contemporary# craft# process,# including#

wood# turning,# glass# blowing,# and# pottery.# With# development# of# globalization#

leading#to#a#more#complex#economic#situation,#since#the#global#recession#in#2008,#

########################################################21 History of the SPAB [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.spab.org.uk/what-is-spab-/history-of-the-spab/ [Accessed at 14 July 2014]#22 Frank Pick's London, V&A Publishing [ONLINE] Available at: http://issuu.com/vandapublishing/docs/frank_pick_issuu [Accessed at 17 July 2014]#23 London Key Facts, London Council [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.londoncouncils.gov.uk/londonfacts/default.htm?category=8 [Accessed at 5 August 2014]#


12#

#

crafting#has#been#perceived#as#either#"a#new#labour#disingenuousness:#high#art#

promoted# in# the# guise# of# populism",# or# a# ‘spiritless# monotonously# uniform#

interiors# produced’ 24 #by# Ikea# or# Habitat,# which# highlights# a# fundamental#

misunderstanding#of#the#lessons#from#the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement,# likely#due#

to#a#mixture#of#poor#public#sentiment#or#due#to#poor#execution,#and#a#history#of#

poorly# implemented# ideas.# The# name# of# the# ‘Arts# and# Crafts’# has# been#

misrepresented,# for# commercial# gain,# while# the# social# philosophy# of# the#

movement#has#been#abandoned.#Regrettably,#the#social#ideas#are#the#essence#of#

this# movement# which# would# benefit# our# modern# society,# more# than# the#

aesthetics# currently# being# exploited,# in# improving# the# quality# of# an# average#

persons#life.####

#

1.3.3. Crafts+within+a+Consuming+society++

Chinese#crafts#are#associated#with#rural#areas,#and#are#often#labelled#as#peasant#

economy.#After#1949,#when#the#People’s#Republic#of#China#established#itself#as#a#

modern# industrialised# country,# it# foreshadowed# craft’s# role# and# future# in#

contemporary#ChinaChinese# traditional# crafts# are# still# # a#major#national# export#

exchanged#with# foreign# countries# (mostly# the# former# Soviet#Union)# to# support#

domestic# industralisation# through#primitive# capital# accumulation25#Mao# said# in#

Notice% regarding%how% to%accelerating% the% socialist% transformation%of%handicrafts,#

1956:#

#

“The# nation# will# help# Cooperative# of# Handicraft# upgrade# into# semi;#

mechanical# and# mechanical;# the# Cooperative# need# to# speed# up,# working#

towards# the# same# task# at# the# same# time.# As# long# as# speed# up# into#

mechanical,#the#cooperation#can#be#dismissed.#The#smaller#the#cooperation#

becomes,# the# easier# for# our# (industrialisation)# undertakings.# Please# hurry#

up,#and#hand#in#more#(crafts)#to#help#our#country.”#26##

#

########################################################24 Mark Archer, Simplicity betrayed by glamour 18 Financial Times, May 2005 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/55c1a7a2-9754-11d9-9f01-00000e2511c8.html#axzz2zSmQx4DY [Accessed at 24 August 2014]#25 Hang JIan, Then Kindness of Design, Guangxi Normal University Press, 2011. #26#Mao, Zedong (1956). Selected works of Mao Tse-tung. Peoples Publication,1977. (translated by Skye Mo)#


13#

#

There# is# a# clear#parallel#with#20th# century# consumer# culture# in#Europe,#where#

craftsmen# have# lost# their# market# share# to# fashionable# mass# market# products.#

Carol# McNicoll,# a# ceramic# artist,# addressed# this# in# her# speech# The% real% Craft%

economy�#

##

“As# soon# as# craftsmen# had# created# a# market# for# hand;thrown# pots# there#

were# entrepreneurs# willing# to# get# the# same# thing# made# in# place# like#

Thailand# for# a# fraction# flowerpot# makers# there# are# left# in# this# country#

now.”27#

#

It# is#obvious#to#see,#the#shock#to#crafts# is#globally.#During#early#development#of#

industrialisation,# the# high;cost# of# quality,#means# it#will# inevitably# be# sacrificed#

for# cheaper,# higher# quantity# output.#Walter# Crane#was# trying# to# engaging#with#

industrial#manufacturers:##

#

“The#key,#was# to#engage# in#a#debate#with# the#new#world#and#organisation#of#

manufacturing#industry,#not#by#stimulating#it#but#by#criticizing#it#through#the#

medium#of#beautiful#one;off#pieces#or#artifacts#within#a#craft#tradition,#which#

would# be# seen# by# the# public# as# criticisms# of# the# general# shoddiness# of# the#

mass;produced#goods#available#in#the#high#street.”28##

#

By#now,#it#is#safe#to#say#the#industrial#and#technology#evolved#into#a#much#more#

pleasant#level#than#before,#at#least,#designers#and#makers#have#more#experience#

of#working#with#machines.#The#Design#and#Industries#Association#(DIA)#hold#an#

evolved#version#of#a#concept#originating# from#the#Arts#and#Crafts#Movement#of#

the# previous# century.# Their# concerns# extended# beyond# craft# production# to#

include# things# made# by# machines,# and# attempts# to# inspire# manufacturing#

companies# has# been# met# with# varying# success. 29 #In# short,# the# making# of#

thoughtful,# sophisticated#objects# should#be#encouraged# # through#systematically#

training.#It#doesn’t#matter#about#a#machine#or#human#making#the#piece.#

########################################################27 Harrod, T. (1997). Carol McNicoll, The real Craft economy, pp379. Obscure Objects of Desire: Reviewing the Crafts in the Twentieth Century. Crafts Council.#28 Frayling, C. (2012). On Craftsmanship: towards a new Bauhaus. Oberon Books#29 Mary Greensted (2010). The Arts and Crafts Movement in Britain. Shire Publications UK.#


14#

#

#

However,# crafts# also# support# a# wide# range# of# dependent# businesses# such# as#

material#suppliers,#galleries#and#retailers.#Take#retailing,#for#example,#which#has#

become#increasingly#important#since#the#Arts#and#Crafts#movement.#A#number#of#

departments#stores#including#Liberty’s,#a#London#store#that#made#its#reputation#

catering# for# the# vogue# in# oriental# designs,# and# Heal# &# Son,# another# London#

furniture#business,#played#an#irreplaceable#part#in#shaping#the#movement.#Both#

are# still# running# successful# businesses# today.# The# irony# here# is# that# the# craft#

industry# still# equivocal# in# commercial# world,# while# the# peripheral# economy#

thrives.#At#the#moment,#economic#viability#is#seen#as#the#main#criteria#with#which#

to#judge#the#value#of#products,#‘Design#for#profit’#was#even#a#catchphrase#in#early#

1980s#Britain,#and#recently#highlighted#as#a#theme#at#Beijing#Design#Week,#2014.#

This# illustrates# the# distance# we# have# travelled# from# the# Ruskin# and# Morris##

inspired#philosophy#that#has#traditionally#underpinned#the#craft#movement.##

#

Craftsmen#across#all#nations#are#now#in#the#same#global#commercial#market.#On#

the#one#hand,#when#European#countries#facing#a#fact#without#the#superiority#of#

old# days# colony# welfare,# how# to# maintenance# should# be# more# than# bygone#

priority#or#exclusive#possession#of#labour;saving#inventions.#On#the#other,#China#

and# other# developing# countries# need# to# elevate# the# tastes# of# the# people,# the#

quality# of# their# products# and# prepare# to# transition# from# low;end# industrial#

production# into# superior# making# quality,# in# both# design# and# manufacturing.#

Governments#and#municipalities#should#give#more#encouragement#at#every#level.#

In#a#free#market,#products#with#excellent#craft#and#superior#artistic#design#should#

attain#prestige#and#be#celebrated#globally,#regardless#of#their#origin#country.30#

#

2. Chinese*Contemporary*New*Craft*Case*Studies#+

One#glimpse#of#flourishing#tourism#in#China:#handicraft#products#are#defined#as#

roughly;made# shallow# souvenirs,# the# words# ‘local# speciality’# have# become# a#

general# label# of# soulless# products# as# one# certain# kind# crudely#weaving,# Peking#

########################################################30 Objects of the Association, Transactions p. viii#


15#

#

Opera# masks,# and# cheap# plastic# figures# can# bought# at# almost# every# historical#

tourist# sight# across# China# without# single# connection# with# specific# scenic# spot.#

Without# respect# for# the# consummate# art,# the# admirable# tact,# the# masterly#

treatment# of# materials,# soul# of# crafts# was# somehow# forgotten,# the# depth# and#

dimensions#of#craftsmanship#was#given#up.#Considering# the#huge#population#of#

China,# the# quality# of# crafts# was# once# sacrificed# necessarily# to# meet#

manufacturing#quantity#requirements.#

#

From# national# craft# association# to# individual# designers,# design;makers,# craft#

masters,# scholars,# luxury# craft# brand# as#well# as# rural# culture# utopian# projects,#

various#practice#have#been#tried#in#recent#years.##

#

Reinterpret#traditional#craftsmanship#and#materials#is#a#certain#approach#cannot#

be#avoids#during#National#redefine#process.#Through#different#creative#language#

to# localise# and#modernise,# it’s# not# just# a# blooming# for# culture# preservation# in#

stand#of#a#drive#to#stimulate#all#society#spectrums.#I#have#chosen#those#particular#

three# case# studies# to# identify# currently# Chinese# crafting# design# products#

manufacturing#situation.#Which#include:#Kanjian#Creation#;#a#NGO#project#based#

social# enterprise# aiming# strength# “Chinese# Craftsmanship”# as# a# comprehensive#

object;# Pingwu# –# a# design# studio# focus# on# in;depth# investigation# and# redesign#

vernacular# craftsmanship;# last# but# not# least# Stellar#Works# –# a# shanghai# based#

new#universal# furniture#manufacture# company#using# global# design# approaches#

engaging# with# Chinese# woodwork# craftsmanship.# It# is# the# role# of# Chinese#

contemporary#craftsmanship#to#be#a#crucible#for#that#sort#of#knowledge,#and#to#

reflect# on# its# implications.# “A# genuinely# contemporary# expression# of# life”,# as#

Pevsner# said# of# the# Bauhaus# –# except# this# time# comes# round# in# an# oriental#

country.##

#

2.1. Vernacular+Craftsmanship+reaffirmed+in+Modern+Design:+Pingwu+

(2008I2014)+

#

As#a#comprehensive#definition#towards#China,#the#national#identities#of#Chinese#

culture#have#been#shallow#and#arbitrary#in#the#past#decades,#usually#represented#


16#

#

by#red#and#yellow,#dragons,#lanterns#and#peonies#without#comprehensive#or#in;

depth# consideration.# Pinwu# is# an# industrial# design# company,# which# was#

established# in# 2004# in# Yuhang# District,# Hangzhou.# The# founder# Zhang# Lei#

reconsidered# his# obscure# cultural# identity# during# his# study# in# Milan# Domus#

Academy,#Italy.#After#he#return#with#his#new#partners#Jovana#Bogdanovic#(Serbia)#

and# Christopher# John# (German)# in# 2008,#who# are# deeply# attracted# by# Chinese#

culture,#Zhang#changed#the#company#focus#to#reinvestigate#local#traditional#value.#

The# three# founders# initiated# research# into# traditional# craftsmanship# in#Yuhang#

district,#travelling#through#fifteen#villages#in#two#years.#Their#very#first#practice#

started#with#paper#umbrella#experiments#in#2010,#which#one#of#the#most#famous#

traditions# in#Yuhang#district#has# existed# for#over# two#hundred#years.#Although#

the# project# did# not# succeed# in# achieving# their# initial# aim# of# re;introducing# the#

paper# umbrella# into# modern# life,# the# designers# discovered# a# more# tangible#

method# to#maintain# traditional# craftsmanship# as# well# as# natural#materials.# By#

continuing# with# this# working# method# in# next# four# years,# they# achieved# both#

valuable#design#reinterpretation#experiences#as#well#as#wide#social#support#from#

the#local#community.##

#

This# case# is# a# suitable# example# of# how# to# minimize# design# focus# into# a# local#

region,# and# positive# effect# for# local# community,# craftsmen# and# manufacturer.#

Besides,#the#effect#of#local#government#in#this#case#cannot#be#neglect.###

#

2.1.1. Identity+Belonging+in+Yuhang+District+

#

The#progress#of# identity#belonging#sought#by#Zhang# is# reflected# in#his#practice.#

Starting# from# the# 2010# paper# umbrella# practice,#Pinwu# developed# this# idea# to#

create# a# chair# form.# The# first# prototype#was# exhibited# in#Milan# 2010,#winning#

both#media# and# public# attention.# Piao# Chair# (image# 1)#won# the#Design# Report#

Award#in#Milan#2012,#which#officially#provided#a#success#case#to#carry#on#further#

research/design#into#their#methodology.#

#

During# the# 6# months# umbrella# practice,# Pinwu# presented# initial# test# forms# of#

their# redesigned#umbrella#products# including:# three#upgraded#paper#umbrellas#


17#

#

and#five#other#products#inspired#by#it.#Although#as#a#valuable#experiment,#it#did#

not#change#the#fact#that#the#Yuhang#umbrella#was#too#heavy,#low#in#quality,#too#

big#and#not#easy#to#carry#for#modern#everyday#life.#Zhang#and#his#team#accepted#

the#result:#the#inevitable#fact#that#out;of;date#products#definitely#will#disappear.#

The# development# of# follow;up# projects# included#Future% tradition% (2011),#From%

Yuhang%(2012;2013)# to#Handmade% in%Hangzhou%(2013;2014).#Pinwu# continued#

to# engage# with# local# craftsmen’s# traditional# umbrella# making# skill# in#

deconstructing#paper#umbrella#as#an#object#without#original#waterproof#function.#

In# stand,# he# chosen# to# examining# almost# seventy# steps# in# umbrella# making#

process#and#expanded#several#of#them#into#other#form.#By#adopting#skills#such#as#

gluing#layers#of#natural#paper#fibers,#bamboo#cutting#and#umbrella#ribs#polishing,#

the#Piao,%Tié%Chair#to#Xuán#and%Wú%lamp#were#developed.#Took#Wú#lamp#(image#

2)#for#instance,#which#was#born#from#umbrella#ribs#polishing#and#paper#pasting#

process:#carefully#pasted#rice#paper#in#light#bamboo#frame,#created#nature#light#

in# a# traditional# Yuhang#way.# This# practice# not# only# re;developed#material# use,#

but#also#generated#a#brand#new#function#according#to#each#materials’#nature.#

#

“Human# hand# is# the# most# perfect# agent# of# material# power# existing# in# the#

universe;#and#its#full#subtlety#can#only#be#shown#when#the#material#it#works#on,#

or#with,#is#entirely#yielding.”#Whatever#the#material#you#choose#to#work#with,#

your# art# is# base# if# it# does# not# bring# out# the# distinctive# qualities# of# that#

material.”31##

#

Crafts;based#projects#took#at# least# fifty#percent#of#Pinwu’s#business# focus.#Local#

traditional# craftsmanship# and# material# use# became# a# crucial# element# in# their#

contemporary# design# practice.# After# a# couple# years# of# testing,# Pinwu# realised#

their#limitation#of#personal#interests#towards#designed#items.#Therefore,#starting#

from#2013#Handmande%in%Hangzhou#exhibition#project#started#to#investigate#five#

iconic# nature#materials# in# local# area:# bamboo,# silk,# earth,# bronze# and# paper# as#

annual# material# for# each# year# exhibition.# Pinwu# invited# ten# designers# from#

different#design#field#to#engage#materials#in#different#kind#of#form:#bamboo#wood,#

bamboo# skin,# bamboo# strips,# bamboo# fiber,# bamboo# paper# and# even# bamboo#

########################################################31 Ruskin, John. "The work of iron in nature, art and policy." The works of John Ruskin (1858): 375-411#


18#

#

paper# pulp# to# create# objects# from# their# own# specialties.# In# 2014,# the# creative#

team# expanded# into# 16# designers# with# the# annual# material# silk.# Rediscovered#

various# form# of# silk#material# such# as# silk# cocoons,# natural# silk,# silk# paper,# silk#

textiles,# embroidery,# water# silk# and# southern# Song# Dynasty# silk# clothing.#

Designers#from#various#design#field#to#integrate#silk#into#new#form#or#meld#into#

new#materials#to#test#how#traditional#materials#survive#under#new#era#and#needs.#

One#example#is#jewerly#designer#Lu#Jingyi,#her#Semi4finished%The%Moth#(image#3)#

used#different#stitching#techniques#of#silk#embroidery#(silk#and#cotton#yarn)#and#

organ# Silk# created# new# textile# surface# meld# into# Resin,# to# preserving# semi;

finished# moth# pattern# eternal.# In# Handmade% in% Hangzhou% exhibition,# Pinwu#

provide#partly#manufacturing#cost#to#assist#the#finial#present#for#each#designer,#

copyrights# and# possession# remained# on# individual# designers# for# future#

development.##

#

2.1.2. Working+Method+I+Craftsmanship+and+Design+Debate+

Currently,#Pinwu’s#working#method#towards#crafts#can#be#categorized#according#

to# two# approaches.# On# one# hand,# for# Handmade% in% Hangzhou# project,# Pinwu%

dividing# their# research# and# practice# into# five# different#materials# over# the# next#

couple# years,# by# collaborate#with# six# to# seven# local#workshops# (approximately#

one#hundred#craftsmen)#according#to#different#materials#focus#of#each#workshop.#

Craftsmen# remuneration# depends# on# contracts# and# the# complicity# of# finial#

products.#On#the#other#hand,#Pinwu#has#recruited#six#in;house#craftsmen#to#make#

branding#products# including#Piao#Chair# (it# takes#approximately# three#weeks# to#

create# one# chair)# and# others# handmade# products# exclusive# to# Pinwu,# with# a#

monthly#salary#from#3000#RMB#to#8000#RMB#according#to#degree#of#skill.##

#

During# the# interview#with#Zhang#Lei,# he# constantly# reaffirm#Pingwu’s# role# as# a#

design#studio.#That’s# the#reason# they#determined# in# focusing#on#design#activity#

itself,# for# the# rest# of# his# business# issue# he# more# inclined# into# Taoism# non;

interference# theory.# In#Pinwu’s# philosophy,# a# design;oriented# approach# should#

not#distract#by#anything#else#than#design.#Even#though#the#several#report#shown#

that#after#Pinwu’s#collaboration,#umbrella#craftsmen#and#paper#umbrella#gained#


19#

#

media#and#public#attention#also#even#get#overseas#orders#from#Europe.#When#be#

asked# about# the# concern# of# craftsmen’s# living,# zhang#Lei# insist# over# concerned#

the# side# effect# of# studio’s# project# even# goodwill# to# help# a# craftsmen’s#monthly#

income# is# utilitarianism# thoughts# beyond#designer’s# control.# The#motivation#of#

how# to# help# local# craftsman’s# living# will# weaken# design;oriented# approach.#

Although# this# idea#opposite#with# the#Arts# and#Crafts#Movement,#while#William#

Morris’# socialist# goal# concerns# laboriously# and# wellbeing.# However,# it# is# also#

reality#the#community#welfare#can#only#been#support#by#government.#Since#last#

year,#Pinwu# registered#as#a#non;profit#organisation# ;#Rong#Design#and#Material#

Center#;#with#help#of#the#local#government.#Their#aiming#to#extend#their#material#

study#and#investigate#towards#a#broader#range#in#the#future.#

##

2.1.3. Governmental+Support+and+Enterprises+Hindered+

#

Pinwu#first#contacted#local#government#office#during#their#early#investigations#in#

2009.#The#Hangzhou#city#government#and#Yuhang#district#government#began#to#

support#for#the#studio’s#practice#and#exhibitions#in#Milan#since#2012#as#the#first+

Chinese#municipal# city# in# Salone# del#Mobile#Milan,# with# thirty# percent# to# fifty#

percent#exhibition#cost#every#year.#According#to#Zhang#Lei,#the#local#government#

(Hangzhou# Culture# and# Creative# Industry# Office# and# Hangzhou# International#

Communication# Office)# were# not# involved# in# either# product# development# or#

exhibition# organisation.# Pinwu# merely# informally# updated# them# on# exhibition#

process# and# subsequently# presented# a# small# report# a# couple# of# weeks# before#

their# departure# to# Milan.# Although# it# is# encouraging# to# learn# that# the# local#

government# maintained# a# good# attitude# towards# developing# the# creative#

industry,# however# even# Zhang# Lei# admitted# that# this# almost# fairy;tale;like#

situation# is# not# a# widespread# phenomenon.# Nevertheless,# the# Yuhang# district#

government# is# dedicated# to# cultural# construction:# every# year,# over# 45,000,000#

RMB#(approximately#4,400,000#GBP)#of#investments#are#made,#in#addition#to#the#

support# of# a# wide# variety# of# cultural# preservation# projects,# including# five#

national#heritage#projects,#twenty#provincial#(intangible#heritage)#projects,#forty#


20#

#

seven# municipal# projects# and# ninety# four# district;level# projects. 32 #Pinwu’s#

contribution# not# only# demonstrates# their# creative# and# industrial# potential,# but#

also# acts# as# an# invisible# impetus# in# guiding# the# development# of# the# local#

manufacturing#sector#to#find#new#opportunities.##

#

Bridged# by# Yuhang# district# culture# and# creative# industry# office,# Pinwu# Studio#

connected#with#Hangzhou#social#enterprises#such#as#NANSONG#Porcelain,#China#

Arts# Industrial# Company# and# PARADISE# Umbrella,# in# order# to# build# up#

craftsmanship,# the# creativity# industry# and# integrate# manufacturing# companies#

using# advanced# design# ideas# and# excellent# production# to# re;deconstruct#

traditional# culture# and# craft# skills# into# sustainable# manufacture.# In# the# 2013#

version# of# the# From# Yuhang# exhibition,# Pinwu# developed# Zōngjì% Outdoor#

furniture# set# (image# 4),# Lì# porcelain# tea# set# (image# 5)# and# a# limited# edition#

version# of# Yán# umbrella# (image# 6)# with# China# Arts# Industrial# Company,#

NANSONG#Porcelain#and#PARADISE#Umbrella#respectively.##

#

Zōngjì# used# a# traditional# palm# thread# weave# technique,# coming# for# ancient#

raincoat#and#mattress#making#best#known#for#waterproof.#Pinwu#mixed#with#soft#

caddice# and# Yuhang# ancient# manufacturing# process# for# modern# outdoor#

furniture.#Lì# tea# set# re;adopted# forms# from#pre;dynastic# times,# focusing#on# the#

meaning# of# ‘container’# and# its# uses# as# a# cauldron# for# boiling# water.# After#

redesigning#and#remodeling#the#shape#and#style#of#this#ancient#vessel,#23#pieces#

were# shown# in# the# final# collection,# Lì# reformed# the# scale# and# material# with#

perfectly# maintained# heritable# functionality.# The# inspiration# of# Yán# umbrella#

comes# from# the# structure# of# traditional# Chinese# eaves,# each# layer# overlaps# the#

lower#one#and#keeps#airflow#in#between.#Besides#a#unique#appearance#Yán#has#

stronger#windproof#protection#by#letting#the#air#go#through#the#gaps#in#order#to#

decrease#the#power#of#the#wind.##

#

Unfortunately,# this# collaboration# seems# not# gain# any# recognition# from# those#

########################################################32 Liu#Li,#Yuhang%District%2013%Culture%and%Creative%Industry%Chronicle%(�� 2013��!�),#��#21#Jan,#2014#[ONLINE]#Available#at:#http://citime.zjol.com.cn/citime/system/2014/01/21/017620905.shtml#[Accessed#at#24#April#2014]#

(Translated#by#Skye#Mo)#


21#

#

manufacturer.#Taking#Yán#for#instance,#it’s#hardly#to#found#any#report#or#news#on#

PARADISE# Umbrella# or# any# social# media# channels.# As# one# of# China’s# most#

important# manufacturing# areas,# the# Yangtze# River# Delta# holds# a# significant#

quantity# of# labour,# raw# materials# and# excellent# transport# links.# Local#

manufacture# enterprises# such# as# SUNCHA# Bamboo,# PARADISE# Umbrella,#

NANSONG#Porcelain#and#FABLE#home#furnishing#are#key#players#in#the#domestic#

market# unti# reaching# the# turning#point# of# business# transformation.# Traditional#

manufacturers# wish# to# gain# assistance# from# external# forces# to# drive# business#

transformation#designed# to# promote# brand/business# value.# It#might# be# true# to#

some# degree# that# Pinwu’s# integrated# cases# have# helped# manufacturing#

companies# to#achieve#breakthroughs# in#developing#new#functions# for#materials#

and# in# designing# new# products.# However,# the# problem# remains# as# to# how# to#

change# the# traditional# “production;oriented”# gene# into# “life# ;# oriented”.# In#

current# Chinese# circumstance,# designed# product# is# a# delicate# intermediary,#

bridging#between#unique,# one;of;a;kind# art# objects# and# cheap#quality,# low;end#

mass#production# items.#The#necessity# to#distinct#quality#and# individuality# from#

quantity# and# uniformity# are# seems# still# a# unsolved# mystery# to# those#

manufacturers,# Designed# products# are# still# just# a# pretty# prototype# for#massive#

number#of#duplicating#for#them#to#dumping#sale.##

#

2.2. New+Universal+Collaboration:+Stellar-Works+(2011I2014)+++

Established# in# 2008,# Furniture# Labo# is# a# joint# venture# by# Japanese# Fusion#

Trading# and# French# furniture# producer# LAVAL# (est.1892),# located# in# Jiading#

district,# Shanghai.# After# three# years# hospitality# B2B# business,# client# including#

Starwood,#Four#Season#Hotel#Group,#W#Hotels#worldwide,#and#luxury#brand#OEM#

(Original#Equipment#Manufacturer)#such#as#Gucci#(all#furniture#for#Asia#Pacific)#

and#Hermes#Stores#(in#France#and#Asia).#The#hospitality# furniture#manufacture#

experience#provided# a# solid,# high#quality# foundation# for# create# it’s# own#design#

language.# At# the# same# time,# Furniture# Labo# worked# with# Danish# firm# OeO# to#

purchase#vintage#Scandinavia# furniture#copyrights.#Stellar#Works# launched#as#a#

designer# collection# subsidiary# brand# in# 2011# at# China# International# Furniture#

Expo.#This#significant# ‘Made#in#Shanghai’#debut#slant# its#Chinese#manufacturing#


22#

#

in# stead# of# concealing# it.# The# following# year,# during# the# Salone# del# Mobile# in#

Milan,#the#brand#introduced#itself#to#the#international#creative#community#as#one#

of#the#‘The#best#new#brands#launched#at#the#Salone#del#Mobile#2012’33.##

#

Stellar# Works# is# committed# to# quality# manufacturing,# and# promotes# quality#

assurance# workflow# with# a# highly# professional# team# not# only# with# local#

craftsmen,# but# also# technicians,# designers# as# well# as# other# staff# overall# 600#

employees#from#11#countries#including#France,#China,#Japan#and#Denmark.#Their#

combined#experience#in#the#art#of#furniture#making#ensures#an#exquisite#quality#

of# woodcraft# that# is# uniquely# distinctive# from# other# Chinese# manufacturing#

companies.##

#

This#case#provided#a#unique#example#to#examine#efficient#collaborate#of#machine#

and#handmade#crafts#under#globalization#context.##

#

2.2.1. Designed+Manufacturing:+Redefining+Made+in+China+

#

After#Stellar#Works#debuted#at# the#Shanghai# furniture#expo,#Monocle#published#

an#article#entitled#“Turning%the%Tables%4Shanghai”#accompanied#by#a# full#picture#

of# the# Stellar# Works# factory.# In# an# interview# with# Japanese# factory# Chairman#

Yuichiro#Hori,#it#was#revealed#that:#“All#of#our#workers#have#at#least#10#years#of#

woodworking#experience.#Many#of# the#workers#come#from#small#village#known#

for# furniture;making# and# started# woodworking# with# their# fathers# when# they#

were#15#years#old.”34#Benefiting# from#the#availability#of# cheap# imported#woods#

and# access# to# woodworking# talent# ;# furniture# manufacturing# craftsmen#

resources# from# the# Yangtze# River# Delta,# Stellar# Works# reaffirmed# the#

competitiveness# of# handicraft# manufacture# in# woodwork# and# upholster#

specialtise#in#the#modern#day#market.##

#

########################################################33 J.J. Martine and Henrietta Thomphson: The best new brands launched at the Salone del Mobile 2012, Wallpaper, 16 Apr 2012: [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.wallpaper.com/design/the-best-new-brands-launched-at-the-salone-del-mobile-2012/5729 [Accessed at 24 April 2014]#34 Alan. H. Garham, Turning the Tables-Shanghai, Monocle Dec 2011, pp211-213 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.furniturelabo.com/jp/Upfile/20121410572873499.pdf [Accessed at 21 August 2014]#


23#

#

As#Ruskin’s#opinion#towards#nail;making#sweatshops#during#the#Arts#and#Crafts#

Movement,# the# civilized# invention# of# division# of# labour# criticized# in# the#

nineteenth;century# still# could# be# a# warning# to# aspire# for# a# more# sustainable#

means#of#manufacturing#today:##

#

“…#the#labour#that#is#divided…broken#into#small#fragments#and#crumbs#of#life;#

so#that#all# the#little#piece#of# intelligence#that# is# left# in#a#man#is#not#enough#to#

make#a#pin,#or#a#nail#but#exhausts#itself#in#making#the#point#of#a#pin#or#the#head#

of#a#nail.#Now#it#is#good#and#desirable#thing#to#make#many#pins#in#a#day;#but#if#

we#could#only#see#with#what#crystal#sand#their#points#were#polished,#;#and#of#

human#soul,#much#to#be#magnified#before# it#can#be#discerned#for#what# it# is#–#

we#should#think#there#might#be#some#loss#in#it#also”.35%#

#

To# clarify# the# contradiction,#William#Morris#noted# ‘Nothing# should#be#made#by#

man’s# labour# which# is# not# worth# making,# or# which# must# be# made# by# labour#

degrading#to#the#makers.’36#There#is#no#doubt#that#labour#division#is#inevitable#in#

industrialization,# for# craftsmanship# especially# requires# hard# work# and#

dedication:#it#takes#10,000#hours#of#practice#to#become#a#skilled#carpenter,#which#

is#three#hours#a#day#for#ten#years.#However,#the#differences#between#laboriously#

mind#polish#work#and#difficulty#of# facing#self;challenge#is#the#solaces#and#pride#

come#after#the#work#complete.#According#to#personal#interview#with#Shell#Xu,#the#

branding# director# of# Stellar# Works,# workers# categorized# by# workflow,# which#

allowed# them# to# access# all# necessary# technique# of# furniture# manufacturing#

process.#Besides,#the#diversity#designer#collaboration#also#provide#a#opportunity#

of# learning# and# skill# boundary# pushing.# # Moreover,# Stellar# Works# provide#

learning#opportunities#with#Japanese#and#French#senior#craftsmen,#and#complete#

infrastructural# support# including# a# canteen,# café,# lounge# and# shower# room# for#

staff#use.#According#to#Furniture#Fabo’s#(Stellar#Works)#online#recruitment#news,#

craftsmen’s# salary# ranged# from# 3500;6500# RMB# per# month# and# which# was#

required#to#possess#at#least#3#years#working#experience.##

########################################################35 Ruskin, J. (1977). The nature of Gothic: A chapter of the stones of Venice (Vol. 1). Dissertations-G. Pp93#36 William Morris, Art and Socialism: a lecture delivered before the Secular Society of Leicester on 23 January 1884 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.leicestersecularsociety.org.uk/docs/artandsocialism.pdf [Accessed at 21 August 2014]#


24#

#

#

Another# issue#of# labour#wellbeing# is# the# ‘decency#of# surroundings’.#As#Monocle#

described:#“This#bamboo;landscaped#factory,#surrounded#by#a#green#yard#strewn#

with#potted#palms#and#lawn#furniture,#is#a#far#cry#from#the#sweatshops#that#gives#

Chinese#manufacturing#its#bad#name.”37#However,#the#more#recently#visit#of#City%

Weekend#magazine#describe#Stellar#Workers#working#environment#as#“Everyone#

and#everything#inside#is#covered#in#sawdust,#the#air#smells#like#varnish.”38#Which#

should#be#an#issue#to#arise#awareness.##

#

Even#though,#the#well;acknowledged#quality#of#Stellar#Works#deserves#applaud.#

City#Weekend# describe# them# as# ‘impeccably# designed# and# constructed# chairs’,#

also#after#2014#Milan#Salone#Del#Mobile,#the#Economist#commented:#

#

“Furniture#companies#such#as#Stellar#Works#showed#that#the#cheap,#disposable#

associations#of# ‘made# in#China’# are# shifting.# It# can#also# signify# items# that# are#

well;crafted,#but#still#much#less#expansive#than#European#ones.#The#ability#of#

Chinese#manufacturers#to#innovated#and#experiment#was#a#recurring#theme#at#

the#Salone.”39##

#

2.2.2. Working+Method:+Global+Creative+Collaboration++

#

The#founders#of#Stellar#Works#are#from#Japan#and#France,#incorporated#in#Hong#

Kong,# with# factories# in# Shanghai# and# creative# direction# from# Copenhagen;#

therefore,# the# company# is# certainly# difficult# to# define#with# one# certain# nation.#

Their#design#and#forms#are#certainly#hybridised#styles,#demonstrating#a#mission#

to# bridge# cultural# divides,# with# results# are# beautifully# made# and# a# cleverly#

detailed#body#of#unique#pieces.#

#

According#to#Stellar#Works’#official#website,#the#eighteen#collections#include#nine#

signature# collection# (designer# commission),# four# vintage# collections# (vintage#

########################################################37 Alan. H. Garham, Turning the Tables-Shanghai, Monocle Dec 2011, pp211-213 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.furniturelabo.com/jp/Upfile/20121410572873499.pdf [Accessed at 21 August 2014]#38 Robert Paschen, Stellar Story, City Weekend Home and Office, summer 2014, pp50-55#39 Milan furniture fair: A few of our favorite things Economist, 21 Apr 2014 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.economist.com/blogs/prospero/2014/04/milan-furniture-fair [Accessed at 26 August 2014]#


25#

#

copyright# reproduction),# three# hospitality# collections# (B2B# speciality)# and# two#

accessories# collections# (rugs# and# home# accessories).# Stellar# Works# initiated# a#

dialogue#with#OeO#in#2010,#to#find#a#Scandinavian#agency#to#help#develop#their#

vintage#collections.##

#

Back# to# Stellar# Works# signature# collections,# the# consistency# temperament# of#

current#items#is#impressive.#The#founder#Yuichiro#Hori#told#City%Weekend:##

#

“our# emphasis# is# on# traditional#wood# craftsmanship,# determination# to#work#

with# well;know# designers# and# a# vision# of# making# a# global# brand# that#

establishes#us#as#a#benchmark#in#the#furniture#industry.”40#

#

Besides# the#nature#material#selection#such#as#Hosoo#(est.#1688),#a#Kyoto;based#

textile# company# to# provide# upholstery# for# several# chair# designs,# Designer#

collaborate# mode# is# also# very# important# role# to# have# balanced# consideration#

between# collection# language# and#brand# image.#With# the# intention# to# shaping# a#

stronger,# more# tangible# ideology# for# Stellar# Works# collection,# they# will# more#

inclined# to# work# with# furniture# designers# and# architects# more# frequently# in#

stand#of#interior#designer.#In#the#interview#with#Shell#Xu,#it#was#discovered#that#

Stellar# Works’# designer;commission# brief# was# open,# but# requires# solid#

storytelling# and# heritage# reference,# usually#within# 6# to# 12#month# in# collection#

development#from#initial#sketch#to#collections#prototype.##

#

Under#the#integrated#hybrid#philosophy#used#by#Stellar#Works,#the#definition#of#

“Chinese# elements”# becomes# diverse:# cultural# symbols# melded# with# modern#

forms# from# both# a# western# and# domestic# perspective.# Luna# Collection# (2011)#

(image#7)#designed#by#Danish# firm#Space#CPH,#which# ‘made# from#Chinese# ash’#

was#inspired#by#classic#Chinese#ornament#and#the#moon#as#the#symbol#of#autumn#

and# female# energy# in# Chinese# philosophy.# The#monumental# Chinese# pattern# in#

the# screen# transformed# into#a#more#modern#and#subtle#way#while# smooth#and#

oriental# aesthetic# of# the# moon# demonstrated# with# flawless# chair# upholstering#

work.# Chinese# studio# Neri&Hu,# are# also# dedicated# to# seeking# to# release# the#

########################################################40 Robert Paschen, Stellar Story, City Weekend Home and Office, summer 2014, pp50-55#


26#

#

potential#in#traditional#Chinese#design#and#provide#a#modern#take#on#centuries;

old#crafts.#Their#projects#Ming#(2012)#and#Utility#(2013)#Collections#may#be#used#

to# exemplify# this.# The# Ming# Collection,# for# instance,# is# the# result# of# a# cultural#

investigation# ;#an#eclectic#exploration#of# forgotten#ancient#Chinese# typologies#–#

and# results# in#a#minimal#Ming;styled# scholars’# chair.# For#Ming#Chair#(image#8),#

crossings#are#used# to# form#an#x;bracing#back#support,# and#making# it#appear#at#

once# unfinished# and# also# like# a# double;chair# at# the# same# time.# Such# designers#

merge#past#Chinese#decorative#art#and#the#present#western#functionality#with#the#

deepest# respect# for# tradition,# creating# a# fresh,# contemporary# style.# They#

maintain# similar# silhouettes,# albeit#with#different#proportions# and#details.# This#

collection#won#the#‘Best#Furniture#of#Perspective#Awards#2013’.41#

#

All# of# Stellar# Works’# products# could# be# labelled# as# ‘Chinese’# since# they# are#

inevitably# manufactured# of# using# Chinese# craftsmanship.# However,# when#

referring# to# national# identity# in# cultural# reproduction,# it# is# still# a# matter# that#

rural#craftsman#adopt#his#skills# to#a#new#changing#global#market#and#economic#

conditions# without# losing# his# identity.# To# solve# this# issue# requires# a# in;depth#

traditional# craft# skill# redeveloping# with# synergies# effect# of# both# designer# and#

craftsmen.# As# an# extension# or# upgrade# to# this# activity,# “Chinese# produced”# or#

“made# in# China”# will# delivering# more# compelling# products# with# a# new# global#

perspective#and#relevance#for#the#international#market.#

#

Stellar#Works#not#only#concentrate#on#creating#products,#but#they#also#focus#on#

brand# strategy# and# storytelling# approaches.# Next# year,# the# launch# of# the# new#

“Gentleman”#collection#will#feature#selected#current#products#in#a#perspective#of#

identity#narrative#and#lifestyle#guidance.#During#the#Stellar#Works’#debut#in#2011#

in# Shanghai,# one# of# the#most# thrilling# phenomenons#was# that# “the# Chinese# are#

beginning#to#realise#that#anyone#with#money#can#by#LV,”#says#Peter#Rützou#from#

SPACE#CPH.# “More#and#more,# they#want# to#buy#original#design#pieces# that#will#

########################################################41 Perspective Global: Perspective Award 2013 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.perspectiveglobal.com/pdf/pa/pa2013.pdf [Accessed at 26 August 2014]#


27#

#

last# a# lifetime.# These# pieces#we’re#making# are# just# that,# and# they’re# embedded#

with#story#that#speaks#to#them.”42#

#

At#the#2014#Salone#Del#Mobile#in#Milan,#Stellar#Works#launched#a#new#crossover#

project# with# Arita# –# the# capital# of# Japanese# porcelain# since# 1616.# Entitled#

“Cabinet# of# Curiosity”,# this# three;year;long# project# invited# designer# Michael#

Anastassiades,#Ilse#Crawford,#Neri&Hu#and#Ross#Lovegrove#to#participate.#Stellar#

Works# provided# designers# to# investigate# opportunities# to# design# and# make#

functional# objects# for# contemporary# needs# using# porcelain# with# Japanese#

Porcelain#maker#Arita.#In#the#press#release#for#the#project,#they#state:#“By#adding#

value,#meaning#and#depth,#we#upgrade#the#ordinary#as#the#cabinet#of#curiosities#

elevated# the# status# of# objects# historically.# Creativity# can# be# just# observing# the#

differences# and# amplifying# the# subtleties# of# cross# culture# blending.”43#Stellar#

Works# insists# that#designers’#approaches#should#be#based#on#cultural#research,#

allowing# one# year# for# designers# to# engage# in# tangible# field# trips,# research# and#

cultural# investigation,# in# oder# to# conceive# their# ideas# and# develop# production.#

Besides,#each#designer#will#also#create#a#piece#of#furniture,#to#exhibit#the#objects#

that#they#create.#The#completion#of#the#project#will#coincide#with#Arita#region’s#

400th#anniversary#in#2016.#

#

Stellar#Works#is#also#working#with#different#institutes#such#as#Beijing#Design#

Week#and#Gallery#All#to#promote#the#foundation#of#furniture#industry#and#

authentic#craftsmanship.#They#are#currently#preparing#a#design#fund#to#

encourage#designers#(especially#those#from#mainland#China)#to#strengthen#

culture;oriented#design#in#the#near#future.##

#

#

#

########################################################42 Alan. H. Garham, Turning the Tables-Shanghai, Monocle Dec 2011, pp211-213 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.furniturelabo.com/jp/Upfile/20121410572873499.pdf [Accessed at 21 August 2014]#43 A Cabinet of Curiosity Press Release Stellar Works Apr, 2014#


28#

#

2.3. From+Goodwill+Preservation+to+Creative+Enterprise+I+Kanjian-Creation-

(2009I2014)+

KANJIAN#Creation#is#a#social#enterprise#promoting#contemporary#design#inspired#

by# the# wisdom# of# Chinese# traditional# ethnic# crafts,# which# aims# to# strengthen#

creative# cultural# exchanges# between# China# the# other# parts# of# the# world.# The#

brand# initiated# their# reinterpretation# approach# of# crafts# by# drawing# on# the#

singer# Dadawa’s# experience# as# UNDP# (China)# goodwill# ambassador# of# “SHOW#

THE# WORLD”# ;# a# goodwill# action# for# the# preservation# and# development# of#

Chinese#ethnic#culture#between#2009#and#2011.#Benefiting#from#this#experience,#

Dadawa# and# her# team# build# a# solid# foundation# in# both# ethnic# crafts# data#

collecting#and#partners#and#support#from#broad#social#spectrum.##

#

As# a# great# example# of# ‘NGO;Enterprise’# transformation#model,# this# case# study#

will# focus#on#how#KANJIAN#beneficial#of#UNDP#supported#investigating#process#

and#the#commercial#features#to#maintain#‘goodwill’#notion#while#making#profit.##

#

2.3.1. Benefiting+from+UNDP+Goodwill+Action+

#

KANJIAN#was# initially# based# on# UNDP’s# “SHOW# THE#WORLD”# ;# Culture;based#

development#goodwill#action#for#ethnic#in#China.#As#a#singer,#Dadawa#has#an#in;

depth# understanding# about# the# value# of# traditional# ethnic# craftsmanship#

stemming#from#her#original#ethnic#music#career.#Starting#with#the#investigation#

of#Chinese#minority#ethnic#music#(2008),#this#action#programme#not#only#covers#

her# area,# but# also# led# her# to# continue# the# research# and# preservation# of# ethnic#

vernacular# craftsmanship,# a# more# tangible# legacy# that# can# actual# improve# the#

local# economic# situation.# In# Dadawa’s# interview# with# New% York% Times% Style%

Magazine,#she#mentioned#the#beginning#of#SHOW#THE#WORLD#project:##

#

“United# Nations# Development# Programme# (UNDP)# developed# this# project#

intend# to# focus#how# to#use# local# culture# resource# to# lift#up# local# economic#

development,#Provinces#such#as#Yunnan,#Guizhou#and#Tibet#are#in#backward#


29#

#

productive# forces# compare#with#metropolis# such# as# Beijing,# Shanghai# and#

Pearl# River# Delta# zone.# However,# despite# the# industrial# shock,# craft#

traditions#had#survived#in#those#rural#areas#with#strongly#life#force.”44#

#

The#2010#“SHOW#THE#WORLD#;# investigation#for#ethnic#craftsmanship”#invited#

10# researchers# including# designers,# media# and# scholars,# to# travel# through#

Yunnan,# Qinghai,# Tibet,# Guizhou# and# Inner# Mongolia# province# to# collect# first;

hand#material#of#over#20#traditional#craftsmanship#techniques#and#skills#through#

10,000# photographs,# an# 8,000;minute# video# and# a# 50,000# words# memo#

developed#within#a#3;month#journey.#The#investigation#has#been#edited#into#six#

episodes#travel#documentary#programme#for#Chinese%Travel%Satellite%TV%Channel#

and#an#exhibition#comprising#designed#exhibits#alongside#video#and#photography#

documentation#held#at#Beijing#Central#Academy#of#Fine#Arts#Museum#on#October#

28th,# 2010.#The#positive# feedback#of# the#pilot# collaboration# from#academic# and#

media# encouraged# the# team# to# start# a# design/craft# product# development#

company.#As#Dadawa#mentioned#in#her#interview:##

#

“The# investing# is# the# first# step,# we# leading# professional# culture# protector,#

research# team# to# record# existent# craft# masters;# the# second# step# is# to# fuse#

traditional# craftsmanship# into# contemporary#products.# This#move# is# not# just#

inherit#minority#ethical#culture#but#also#concerns#‘Chinese#creation’#to#extend#

and# deepen# the# meaning# of# Chinese# identity# engaging# with# contemporary#

design#approaches#in#order#to#fit#in#the#trend.”45##

#

After# years# of# preparation,# KANJIAN#was# registered# in# June# 2012.# The# second#

investigation#emphasized#the#focus#of#‘creation’#in#2013,#and#was#officially#called#

“SHOW#THE#WORLD# investigation# for# Chinese# creating# design”.# This# time,# the#

team#covered#the#areas#of#Jiangsu,#Zhejiang,#Tibet,#Guizhou,#Yunnan#and#Beijing,#

########################################################44Xin#Yuan,#Dadawa%Zhu%Zheqin:%Chinese%traditional%craftsmanship%protect%needs%more%help%than%NGO%rescue#(��"��%�# )�($�),#The#New#York#Times#Style#Magazine#18#Jul,#2013#(translated#by#Skye#Mo)#[ONLINE]#Available#at:#http://cn.tmagazine.com/art/20130718/cc18zhuzheqin/#

[Accessed#at#26#August#2014]#45 Xin#Yuan,#Dadawa%Zhu%Zheqin:%Chinese%traditional%craftsmanship%protect%needs%more%help%than%NGO%rescue#(��"��%�# )�($�),#The#New#York#Times#Style#Magazine#18#Jul,#2013#(translated#by#Skye#Mo)#[ONLINE]#Available#at:#http://cn.tmagazine.com/art/20130718/cc18zhuzheqin/#

[Accessed#at#26#August#2014]#


30#

#

and# brought# together# prominent# Chinese# and# international# designers# to# work#

closely#with#local#craftsmen#to#realize#exemplary#products#with#new#possibilities.#

Ten# designers# joined# the# 2013# investigation# including# world;known# designer#

Jeffery# Shi,# Michel# Young,# Neri&Hu# and# Tom# Dixon.# Over# 20# traditional# craft#

techniques# were# recorded,# including# bamboo,# wood,# lacquer,# ceramics,# glass,#

cloisonné,#felt#weaving#and#ancient#papermaking.#All#of#these#materials#could#be#

potentially#used#to#create#new#objects#that#express#the#essence#of#‘the#traditional’#

as#an# integral#part#of#contemporary# life.#Similar#to#2010,# the# final#report#of# the#

2013# investigation#entailed#a# television#programme# featuring#products# lines#of#

over#50#objects#and#an#exhibition,#which#launched#in#Milan#in#2014.46#

#

The#China#Arts#and#Crafts#Association#(CACA)#is#the#highest#organization#of#the#

Chinese# art# and# craft# industry,# holding# large# numbers# of# craft# masters’#

information# in# their# records.# Through# collaborations# with# CACA,# the# KANJIAN#

investigations# efficiently# partnered# with# local# cultural# departments,# scholars,#

and#hidden#crafts#masters,# and#with# the#benefit#of#associating# themselves#with#

UNDP,# the# SHOW# THE# WORLD# team# gathered# solid# support# from# various#

partners,#which#became# indispensable# for# the# company’s# future.# From#2009# to#

2014,#various#organisations#such#as#China#Bank,#Audi,#IOV#China,#CACA#as#well#as#

many# cultural# elites# supported# and# were# involved# in# KANJIAN’s# investigative#

action,# providing# financial# support,# consultancy,# networking# and# other#

professional#expertise.##

#

2.3.2. Enterprise+and+International+Creative+Force++

#

Initially#KANJIAN#Folk#Art,#the#brand#change#its#name#into#KANJIAN#Creation#in#

2013#in#order#to#engage#in#a#broader#concept#and#create#contemporary#objects#

informed#by#traditional#craft#concepts.#KANJIAN#is#privately#funded#by#an#Angel#

Investment# and# is# not# pressurised# to# operate# as# a# commercial# profit;making#

venture.#Ross#Urwin,#the#former#creative#director#of#design#and#lifestyle#at#luxury#

retailing#company#Lane#Crawford,#was#appointed#as#brand#director#of#KANJAN.#

########################################################46 Full designer list: Tom Dixton, Michael Young, Rossana Hu&Lyndon Neri, Hoda Baroudi, Maria Hibri, Bian Pingshan, Jiang Yixuan, Chi Wing Lo, Qu Mina, Ren Zhenglin, Shen Baohong, Zhong Sheng, Jeff Shi Dayu. #


31#

#

His#role#was#to#deliver#innovative#products#and#design,#contribute#ideas,#create#

opportunities# for# collaboration# and# provide# up;to;date# trend# forecasts# for# the#

brand.# In# an# interview#with# the# South#China#Morning#Post,#Urwin# stated:# "Our#

idea#was# to# create# something# that#would#protect# the#dying# crafts#of#China,#but#

that#was#very#design;led."47##

#

As# a# broad# field,# Chinese# ethnic# culture# involves# a#wide# social# spectrum.# In# an#

interview#with#KANJIAN’s#operation#Director#Yi#Lan,# it#was#discovered# the#key#

working# method# of# KANJIAN# is# packaged# as# several# principles# that# drive#

business:#######

#

“First,# when# comes# to# professional# issue,# the# questions# will# remain# to#

professionals#in#stand#of#amateur#disturb.#

Second,# collaborate# as#many#partners# as#we# can.# For# one#hand,# to# expend#

the#impact#attract#general#attention;#for#another#hand,#by#collaborating#with#

different#industries#and#sectors,#various#resources#will#induct#and#help.#

Last# but#not# least,# aiming# to# construct# a# successful# case# for# contemporary#

crafts#design,#which#requires# tactical#preservation#and#developing#at# same#

time.#”#

#

Since# the# 2010# investigation,# designers# were# invited# to# engage# in# their# own#

specialty#and#interests#in#certain#aspects#of#craftsmanship.#Although#most#of#the#

objects# in# the# 2010# CAFA# exhibition#may# be# considered#more# ‘arty’# instead# of#

utilitarian,# it# is# still# provide# a# guideline# of# KANJIAN’s# commission# working#

method:# through# investigation# journey#to# truly#embrace#ethnic#region#daily# life#

and# peasants# working,# feeling# the# root# of# each# craftsmanship.# Pioneering#

designer# Jeffery# Dayu# Shi# from# Taiwan# was# invited# to# participate# in# both# the#

2010# and# 2013# investigations,# where# he# presented# the# first# of# the# KANJIAN#

objects:#KANJIAN#•#Black#Ceramic#Tea#Tray#(image#9).#Black#ceramic#is#originally#

from#Yunnan#province,#which#was#discovered#during#the#2010#investigation.#The#

Black#ceramic#has#a#rich#history#spanning#thousands#of#years.#With#pilot#test#in#

########################################################47 Giovanna Dunmall, Hong Kong-born Chi Wing Lo makes a name for himself in Italy as designer South China Morning Post, 16 Apr 2014 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.scmp.com/property/hong-kong-china/article/1483019/hong-kong-born-chi-wing-lo-makes-name-himself-italy [Accessed at 26 August 2014]#


32#

#

2010,#Jeffery#Dayu#Shi#launched#Xin%•%Shangri4La%•%Wind#collection#including#a#tea#

tray,# a# stand# lamp# and# a# tea# set# collection# at# the# exhibition# hold# in# Central#

Academy#of#Fine#Arts#Museum.#The#designer#was#inspired#by#the#way#in#which#

Tibetans#in#Shangri;la#stack#wood,#as#well#as#the#drainage#system#of#their#roof#at#

the#Sumtseling#Monastery.#The#final#work#is#representative#not#only#of#material#

adoption,#but#also#the#wisdom#of#craftsmanship#in#local#ethnic#culture#heritage.##

#

During#last#year’s#investigation,#KANJIAN#invited#designers#with#an#international#

background# with# emphasized# the# focus# of# ‘creation.# During# their# visiting# felt#

masters,# saddle;makers# and# jewellery;makers# in# Mongolia.# Designer# Hoda#

Baroudi#commented#on#felt#products#from#East#Ujimqin#Banner#zone,#point#out#

one#of# the# reason# that# tradition# crafts#broke#away# from#market# is#due# to# their#

unaffordable#price.#Which# inevitable#weaken# the#competitiveness#of# traditional#

craftsmanship# objects.# Knowing# the#market#will# be# the# first# step,# research# the#

price# difference# amongst# more# similar# products.# Besides,# traditional# craft#

products# should# consider# the# contemporary# lifestyle# and# everyday# needs,# new#

products#needs#to#change#and#fits#the#necessity.#

#

The#conflict#between#high#price#and#high#quality#leads#becomes#a#major#difficulty#

of#KANJIAN,# a# solution# to# balance# exquisite# object# quality# and#noticeable# sales#

volume#is#key.#In#collaboration#with#Michael#Young,#he#was#in#particular#focused#

on# working# with# cloisonné# techniques,# eventually# developing# the# KANJIAN# •#

Moonish#series#(image#10).#This#range#included#one#platter,#four#plates#and#two#

vases.# After# studying# cloisonné# techniques,# Young# removed# enamel# colouring#

from#his#process,#focusing#instead#on#the#metal#inlays,#which#float#around#on#the#

metal#surface#and#release#forms#in#an#organic#and#free#movement#process#on#the#

surface#of#the#object.#In#an#interview#with#product#director#Zhang#Zilong,#Michael#

Young#worked#with# a#budget# of# approximately#100,000#RMB,#which# covered# a#

first# edition# design# commission,# prototypes# and# craftsmanship# cost.# KANJIAN#

and#Michael#Young#are#now#working#on#a# second#edition#with# less# labour;cost#

cloisonné#ornament#process,#in#order#to#aiming#larger#market#for#utility#use#and#

affordable#price.#The#two#editions#will#speak#out#into#other#KANJIAN#collections:#

one# edition# exemplifies# exquisite# sophisticated# craft# in# limited# collection# for#


33#

#

exhibitions;# the# second# is# slight# in# ornamentation# yet# suitable# for# the# general#

market#and#produced#via#a#combination#of#small;scale#crafts#and#machine#work.##

#

2.3.3. Creative+Products+and+Craftsmanship:+CoIdevelopment+

#

KANJIAN#does# not# have# an# in;house# craft#workshop#or# factory.# They# currently#

working#with#at#least#ten#kinds#of#material#craftsmanship#based#studios#through#

two#main#collaborate#mode.#First,#through#contracted#appointments:#continuing#

the#making#process#according#to#designer’s#draft,#which#does#not#require#many#

communicating#or#supervising.#For#instance,#the#KANJIAN#•#Tease#Stone#Screen#

making# requires# six# female# embroiderers# of# one# month;long# work,# in# return,#

KANJIAN# provide# salary# equals# 2# months# living# costs# for# each# embroiderer.#

Another# approach# is# co;development,#where# KANJIAN,# designers# and# the# craft#

studio#share#development#costs,#which#will#return#after#profit#making.#However,#

This#collaboration#mode#is#under#developing#cannot#provide#any#information#to#

this#study.#Even#though,#the#principle#disadvantage#of#project;based#salaries#for#

craftsmen#is#usually#fixed#term#or#fixed#quantity#commission.#For#encourage#fine#

craftsmanship#and#value#making# culture,# this# accordance# should#also# including#

the#quality#of#commissioned#items#to#the#rate#of#wages#earned.####

#

During#the#April#2014#exhibition#at#Milan#Triennial#Museum,#the#fame#of#Chinese#

craftsmen# remained# hidden.# None#went# to#Milan# to# directly# face# international#

patrons.# Ashbee’s# suggests# that# “the# objects# should# arrange# for# the# delivery# of#

lectures#whereby#the#worker#may#have#an#opportunity#of#demonstrating#to#the#

public# the# aptitudes# and# limitations# of# his# craft.”# Although# KANJIAN# plays# a#

functional# role# to# bridge# designer,# craftsmen# and# sales# channels,# the# nature# of#

understanding#craftsmanship#can#only#been#noted#by#the#craftsmen#themselves.#

The#names#of#the#actual#craftsmen#of#every#object#intended#for#exhibition#should#

be# supplied# by#KANJIAN,# as# it# is# done#with# designers.# As# Christopher# Frayling#

addressed# “bookish# training# was# too# feeble# to# enter# into# these# final# secrets;#

evidently# there# was# something#more,# only# revealed# to# skilled# hands# and# eyes#


34#

#

after#years#of#experiment.”48#The#basic#craftsmanship#knowhow#and#materials#of#

each#object#are#not#noted#in#KANJIAN’s#website,#paralleling#the#invisibility#of#the#

craftsmen# at# the# Milan# exhibition.# Finally,# the# name# of# the# designers# and# the#

craftsmen#should#be#published#in#the#catalogue#equally,#as#well.#

#

Besides#documenting#ethnic#craftsmanship,# the#other#major#mission#of# the#SEE#

THE#WORLD#investigation# is# to#help#aged#craftsmen#to# find#successors#without#

putting#valuable#ethnic#craftsmanship#in#dangerous.#“a#percentage#of#the#profits#

will# go# back# to# the# communities# where# the# pieces# are# made.”49#Yi# Lan,# the#

operation#director#of#KANJIAN#introduced#how#craftsmen#can#be#helped:##

#

By# including# craftsmen# in# the# KANJIAN# production# chain,# they# are# able# to#

make#a#living,#while#helping#build#necessary#facilities#within#the#village#and#for#

the#local#community.#Moreover,#KANJIAN#aims#to#donate#10%#of#its#profits#to#

support#‘Show#the#World#;#Good#Will#Action#1+5’#heritage#project.#Which#is#a#

charity# fund# of# helping# each# master# (music# and# craft)# find# five# suitable#

successors#while#provide#funding.#Aiming#to#train#two#thousand#ethnic#music#

and#crafts#young#successors#within#five#years.##

#

3. Conclusion+

By#examining#the#first#design#movement#in#modern#history,#the#Arts#and#Crafts#

Movement.#We# can# see# that# although# they# were# initially# inspired# by# the# poor#

quality#of#machine#made#objects#and#the#inhumane#conditions#of#sweatshops#in#

Britain#during#the#industrial#revolution,#it#grew#into#a#broader#social#movement#

with#constructively#thoughts#in#manufacturing,#consumering,#preservation#while#

eclectic# other# countries# culture# and# heritage.# This# study# borrowed# Arts# and#

Crafts# theories# evaluated# three# Chinese# design# and#manufacture# institutes# and#

enterprises# to# analysis# Chinese# new# crafts# approaches# and# possibilities.# Even#

though#it# is#not#enough#to#unravel#today’s#over#complicated#domestic#situation,#

########################################################48 Frayling, C. (2012). On Craftsmanship: towards a new Bauhaus. Oberon Books.#49 Giovanna Dunmall, Hong Kong-born Chi Wing Lo makes a name for himself in Italy as designer South China Morning Post, 16 Apr 2014 [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.scmp.com/property/hong-kong-china/article/1483019/hong-kong-born-chi-wing-lo-makes-name-himself-italy [Accessed at 26 August 2014]#


35#

#

the#three#cases#can#offering#a#general#trends#of#working#methods:#

##

First# of# all,# the# inevitable# in;depth# research# and# investigation# is# crucial# for#

understanding# traditional# materials# and# further# reinterpretation# of# traditional#

craftsmanship#from#both#specific#vernacular#regions#and#nationwide#angle.##

#

Secondly,# the# craftsmen# collaboration# modes# within# those# cases# are# included#

enterprise#recruite#and#project;based#commission,#the#wage#basis#still#rely#upon#

producing# quantity# or#monthly# salary,# a# tangible# reward# system# of# well;made#

craft#products#still#under#development.#Moreover,#cooperation#with#manufacture#

industry#is#the#key#issue#to#transfer#limited#quantity,#in#those#three#cases#expect#

Stellar# Works# have# their# own# factory,# the# rest# two# are# limited# by# this# issue.#

Manufactures# are# increasingly# driven# by# trend# economics,# unwell# to# share#

prohibitive# development# cost# with# designers.# How# to# convince# manufacturers#

with# a# sustainable# win;win# strategy# to# push# efficient# machinery# and#

craftsmanship#co;work#not#only#can#lower#retail#price#to#attract#more#consumers#

but# also# modernize# craft# industry# from# the# root.# Dadawa# from# KANJIAN#

lamented:# “Those# factories# would# rather# take# orders# of# 10,000# crudely# glass#

bottles,#not#will#taking#any#risk#in#help#our#to#produce#something#exquisite#and#

well#designed.”50#At#the#same#time,#a#multi;discipline#engaging#is#necessary#and#

functional.#As#a#material#culture,#crafts#can#never#been#isolated#from#other#fields#

and# without# contribution# from# other# professionals.# The# synergies# works# of#

governors,# scholars,# scientists,# traders,# architectures,# peasants,# journalists# and#

workers#can#massively#improve#the#impact#of#crafts.#

##

Over# the# last# few# years,# Chinese#manufacturers# across# the# country# have# been#

attempting#to#shed#the#discredited#‘made#in#China’#for#a#more#positive#‘designed#

in# China’.scrambling# for# the# title# of# ‘design# in# China’# to# replace# the# long# term#

discredited# ‘made# in# China’.# Even# though# it’s# thrilling# to# see# many# talented#

Chinese# becoming# internationally# recognised# in# creative# fields,# we# need# to#

consider:# is#making# culture# any# less# noble# than# design# culture?#Once# again,# to#

########################################################50 Zhou#Jin:#Dadawa%Zhu%zheqin:%from%see%myself%to%see%the%world#8#Feb#2014(��“ $�”�“�� ”)#China#Pictorial#[ONLINE]#Available#at:#http://www.chinapictorial.com.cn/ch/se/txt/2014;

02/08/content_594726_4.htm#[Accessed#at#5#August#2014]#(translated#by#Skye#Mo)#


36#

#

take# an# example# from# Britain:# Last# April,# when# the# Department# for# Culture,#

Media# and# Sport# (DCMS)# in# the# UK,# removed# 'crafts'# as# a# recognised# category#

within#the#creative#industries,#there#was#major#backlash#at#what#was#largely#seen#

as#a#‘shortsighted’#decision.#DCMS#responded#the#criticism#with:#

##

"We# recognise# that# high;end# craft# occupations# contain# a# creative# element,# but#

the# view# is# that# in# the# main,# that# these# roles# are# more# concerned# with# the#

manufacturing#process,#rather#than#the#creative#process."#51##

##

Regardless,# this# decision# terminated# crafts# as# an# officially# defined# part# of# the#

‘creative# industry’,# however,# they# didn’t# deny# the# creative# element# in# craft#

making:#removing#the# ‘creative#industries’#crown#from#crafts# is#an#adventurous#

action,# clarifying# the# boundary# between# the# creative# industry# and##

manufacturers,# emphasisng# a# separation# of# ‘products’# and# ‘crafts’.# Back# in#

China’s# circumstances:# instead# of# design,# the# idea# of# crafts# is# a# more# familiar#

concept.#While#Design# required# industrialisation# and# economic# efficiency,# craft#

deeply#bonded#with# the#heritage#of#Chinese#agrarian#society.#As# the#oldest#and#

most# perfect# combination# of# making# and# creating,# design# only# plays# a# role# in#

process,# the# making# process# is# the# actually# result# of# crafts.# With# the##

unprecedented# capabilities# and# opportunities# available# today,# the# ‘making#

culture’#for#new#crafts#should#be#the#goods#reframed#with#meanings#and#utility,#

in# anticipation# of# heritage,# knowledge,# desires# and# sustainable# of# new# lifestyle#

and#consumers.#

##

The# limitation#of# this#study# is#clear,#craft#education,#an# important#aspect#of# the#

Arts# and#Crafts#Movement,# played# an# irreplaceable# role# in# promoting# the# idea.#

Although#the#connection#between#Chinese#Arts#and#Crafts#stems#from#education,#

the#examples#of#current#craft#education#in#China#are#not#covered,#which#should#

be#a#focus#of#future#research.##

#

(total#words:#1,2435)#

########################################################51 The Guardian: Craft as a creative industry: what doesn't get counted, doesn't count http://www.theguardian.com/culture-professionals-network/culture-professionals-blog/2013/may/07/crafts-creative-industries-dcms#

New approaches in Chinese Craftsmanship: 2008-2014

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