Six-Step Process

Many different programming formats incorporate the same essential elements. In all cases, the design programming fits within a larger context of planning efforts which can also be programmed. For design programming for a building, we propose a six-step process as follows:

1. Research the project type2. Establish goals and objectives3. Gather relevant information4. Identify strategies5. Determine quantitative requirements6. Summarize the program

Research the Project Type

This step is necessary if the programmer is working on a project type for the first tiv

Programmatic strategies suggest a way toaccomplish the goals given what one nowknows about the opportunities andconstraints. A familiar example of aprogrammatic strategy is the relationship or"bubble" diagram. These diagrams indicatewhat functions should be near each other inorder for the project to function smoothly.Relationship diagrams can also indicate thedesired circulation connections betweenspaces, what spaces require security or audio privacy, or other aspects of special relationships.

5) Determine Quantitative Requirements

Cost, schedule, and affordable area are interdependent. Costs are affected by inflation through time. Affordable area is determined by available budgets.

In this step, one must reconcile the available budget with the amount of improvements desired within the project time frame. 

6) Summarize the Program

Finally, once all of the preceding steps are executed, summary statements can be written defining "in a nut shell" the results of the programming effort. All of the pertinent information included above can be documented for the owner, committee members, and the design team as well. The decision-makers should sign-off on the scope of work as described in the program.

Design Objectives

Each design objective described herein is significantly important, yet it isjust one aspect of what it takes to achieve a successful project. A truly successful project is one where project goals are identified early on and where the interdependencies of all building systems are coordinated concurrently from the planning and programming phase. Further, all WBDG design objectives: accessible, aesthetics, cost effective, functional/operational, historic preservation, productive, secure/safe, and sustainable and their interrelationships must be understood, evaluated, and appropriately applied. Each of these design objectives is presented in the context of the others throughout the WBDG web site.

Building Types

Space Types

There are many different types of spaces in a building, and each type of space has its own characteristics and requirements

Products and SystemsMost buildings are comprised of a great many different, individual components and materials. While the WBDG encourages the consideration of structures as integrated, whole buildings, it also appreciates the need to access information and guidance by Products & Systems. In the near future, you will be able to access information on specific products and systems by selecting sections based on CSI MasterFormat™ Division or ASTM UNIFORMAT II MajorGroup Element from the menu.

Design GuidanceArchitects, engineers, and project managers can improve the performance and quality of their buildings by following the guidance and recommendations provided within the categories of this web site. Start by navigating throughone of the sections below:

Design Objectives contains information organized by the specific design goal

Building Types contains information organized by the type of building or use

Space Types contains information organized by the type of functional space within buildings

Design Disciplines contains information organized by the professional disciplines' role in the 'whole building' process

Products & Systems contains information organized by CSI MasterFormat™ or UniFormat™

New Home Guide  

 The Building Process 

A Step-by-Step Guide to the Home Building Process

A Step-by-Step Guide to the Home Building ProcessBy Susan Bady

Here's what to expect during the major phases of construction.

Building your new home is exciting, especially when you understand how the process works. The following overview outlines the typical steps in the construction of a home and will help keep you abreast ofwhat happens at key stages.

1. Prepare site and pour foundation: Often, site preparation and foundation work are performed by the same crew, but this may not be the case with a wooded lot. Using a backhoe and a bulldozer, the crewclears the site of rocks, debris and trees for the house and, if applicable, the septic system. The crew levels the site, puts up wooden forms to serve as a template for the foundation, and digs the holes and trenches. Footings (structures where the house interfaces with the earth that supports it) are installed. If your home is goingto have a well, it will be dug at this point.

If the home has a full basement, the hole is dug, the footings are formed and poured, and the foundation walls are formed and poured. Ifit’s slab-on-grade, the footings are dug, formed and poured; the areabetween them is leveled and fitted with utility runs (e.g. plumbing drains and electrical chases); and the slab is poured.

Once concrete is poured into the holes and trenches, it will need time to cure. During this period, there will be no activity on the construction site.

After the concrete is cured, the crew applies a waterproofing membrane to the foundation walls; installs drains, sewer and water taps and any plumbing that needs to go into the first-floor slab or basement floor; and backfills excavated dirt into the hole around thefoundation wall. 

INSPECTION #1: When the curing process is complete, a city inspector visits the site to make sure foundation components are up to code andinstalled properly. This inspection may be repeated depending on the type of foundation (slab, crawl space or basement). Your builder willthen remove the forms and begin coordinating step 2, the framing phase.2. Complete rough framing: The floor systems, walls and roof systems are completed (collectively known as the shell or skeleton of the house). Plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing is applied to the exterior walls and roof, and windows and exterior doors are installed. The sheathing is then covered with a protective barrier known as a house wrap; it prevents liquid water from infiltrating thestructure, while allowing water vapor to escape. This reduces the likelihood of mold and wood rot.3. Complete rough plumbing, electrical and HVAC: Once the shell is finished, siding and roofing can be installed. At the same time, the electrical and plumbing contractors start running pipes and wires through the interior walls, ceilings and floors. Sewer lines and vents, as well as water supply lines for each fixture, are installed.Bathtubs and one-piece shower/tub units are put in place at this point because there’s more room to maneuver large, heavy objects.

Ductwork is installed for the heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) system, and possibly the furnace. HVAC vent pipesare installed through the roof, and insulation is installed in the floors, walls and ceilings.

After the roofing goes on, the house is considered “dried in.” The electrician then installs receptacles for outlets, lights and switches and runs wires from the breaker panel to each receptacle. Wiring for telephones, cable TV and music systems is included in thiswork.

Note that HVAC ducts and plumbing are usually installed before wiring, because it’s easier to run wires around pipes and ducts than vice versa.

INSPECTIONS 2, 3 and 4: Rough framing, plumbing and electrical and mechanical systems are inspected for compliance with building codes. Most likely these will be three different inspections. At the very least, the framing inspection will be conducted separately from the electrical/mechanical inspections.

At this stage, drywall (also known as plasterboard, wallboard or gypsum board) is delivered to the building site. Sheetrock®, a registered trademark of USG Corporation, is sometimes used as a generic term for drywall.

4. Install insulation: Insulation plays a key role in creating a morecomfortable, consistent indoor climate while significantly improving

a home’s energy efficiency. One of the most important qualities of insulation is its thermal performance or R-value, which indicates howwell the material resists heat transfer. Most homes are insulated in all exterior walls, as well as the attic and any floors that are located above unfinished basements or crawl spaces.

The most common types of insulation used in new homes are fiberglass,cellulose and foam. Depending on the region and climate, your buildermay also use mineral wool (otherwise known as rock wool or slag wool); concrete blocks; foam board or rigid foam; insulating concreteforms (ICFs); sprayed foam; and structural insulated panels (SIPs).

Blanket insulation, which comes in batts or rolls, is typical in new-home construction. So is loose-fill and blown-in insulation, which ismade of fiberglass, cellulose or mineral-wool particles. Another insulation option, liquid foam, can be sprayed, foamed-in-place, injected or poured. While it costs more than traditional batt insulation, liquid foam has twice the R-value per inch and can fill the smallest cavities, creating an effective air barrier.

Fiberglass and mineral-wool batts and rolls are usually installed in side walls, attics, floors, crawl spaces, cathedral ceilings and basements. Manufacturers often attach a facing such as kraft paper orfoil-kraft paper to act as a vapor barrier and/or air barrier. In areas where the insulation will be left exposed, such as basement walls, the batts sometimes have a special flame-resistant facing.

5. Complete drywall and interior textures; start exterior finishes: Drywall is hung and taped so the seams between the boards aren’t visible, and drywall texturing (if applicable) is completed. The primer coat of paint is also applied after taping is complete. Contractors begin installing exterior finishes such as brick, stucco,stone and siding.6. Finish interior trim; install exterior driveways and walkways: Interior doors, baseboards, door casings, window sills, moldings, stair balusters and other decorative trim are installed, along with cabinets, vanities and fireplace mantels and surrounds. Walls get a finish coat of paint and are wallpapered where applicable.

Generally, exterior driveways, walkways and patios are formed at thisstage. Many builders prefer to wait until the end of the project before pouring the driveway because heavy equipment (such as a drywall delivery truck) can damage concrete. But some builders pour the driveway as soon as the foundation is completed so that when homeowners visit the construction site, they won’t get their shoes muddy.

7. Install hard-surface flooring and countertops; complete exterior grading: Ceramic tile, vinyl and wood flooring are installed as well

as countertops. Exterior finish grading is completed to ensure properdrainage away from the home and prepare the yard for landscaping.8. Finish mechanical trims; install bathroom fixtures: Light fixtures, outlets and switches are installed and the electrical panelis completed. HVAC equipment is installed and registers completed. Sinks, toilets and faucets are put in place.9. Install mirrors, shower doors and finish flooring; finish exteriorlandscaping:Mirrors, shower doors and carpeting are installed, and final cleanup takes place. Trees, shrubs and grass are planted and other exterior landscaping completed.INSPECTION #5: A building-code official completes a final inspection and issues a certificate of occupancy (C.O.). If any defects are found during this inspection, a follow-up inspection may be scheduledto ensure that they’ve been corrected.10. Final walkthrough: Your builder will walk you through your new home to acquaint you with its features and the operation of various systems and components, and explain your responsibilities for maintenance and upkeep as well as warranty coverage and procedures. This is often referred to as a pre-settlement walkthrough. It’s also an opportunity to spot items that need to be corrected or adjusted, so be attentive and observant. Examine the surfaces of countertops, fixtures, floors and walls for possible damage. Sometimes disputes arise because the homeowner discovers a gouge in a countertop after move-in, and there’s is no way to prove whether it was caused by the builder’s crew or the homeowner’s movers.A Few Words about Inspections: Your new home will be inspected periodically during the course of construction. In addition to mandated inspections for code compliance, your builder may conduct quality checks at critical points in the process. (In the story above, we point out when these inspections typically take place.) Theidea is to catch as many potential problems as possible before construction is finished, though some issues may not surface until you’ve lived in the home for a period of time.

Building your dream home can be one of the most exciting and rewarding projects you can undertake. Getting the opportunity to plan out each step of the process and makethe decisions about your building project is a big responsibility, and can be overwhelming for even the mostexperienced do-it-yourselfers. Taking the scope of the project into account before you get started can help makethe process go a lot more smoothly. Learn the proper waysto find the right location, design your home, acquire the

correct permits, and start breaking ground. See Step 1 tolearn how to get started building your own house.

Part 1 of 7: Finding a Location

Select a desirable place for your house. There are many factors to consider when finding a suitable location on which to build your home. Think about a place you'd like to live long-term and keep in mind things like:

Climate.. Ground stability.. Availability of utilities Community infrastrud

2Select the property on which you are going to build and purchase it. This may be a hurdle, depending on the cost, and your available funds. Building a house is an expensive process, but purchasing suitable property is also a major investment just as important as homebuilding. Decide how you're going to pay for your building project going forward and start that process with the land.

3

Have the property surveyed and the footprint of the house located. This is not absolutely necessary, especially if you are building on a large parcel of land, but if there is any doubt about the property lines, have this done to assure you are not encroaching on a neighbor's property, or the city's. This will be useful as you move forward with the building process

4Consider access issues. On large parcels, especially, youwill need to ascertain the route for a usable driveway ifyou depend on a car for transportation. Look at any low area that would become impassable in winter mud or heavy summer rain, how installing driveway will effect the landscape, and whether a driveway will be in conflict with underground utilities.

Pay particular attention to the way surface water will drain off the property. Every effort should be made so that water drains off and away from the driveway. This may require the placement of culverts or pipes under the driveway to avoid puddling along its sides.

Part 2 of 7: Designing Your Home

1Design your own home, or consult an architect. Architectsand engineers have special training and years of experience in designing houses, and are necessary for most building and zoning jurisdiction code requirements. Regardless of whether you contract their services or elect to design your own, the house you build will be built for you, so you should be involved closely in the design process.

2Design the living spaces. The fun part of designing a home is imagining your new life in your new space. Spend some time researching pre-drawn floor plans for inspiration and consider

using them as a guide for your own space. Home building guidesare commonly available for free online.[4] Give lots of thought to what kind of rooms you want, the number of bedrooms that will be necessary for your family, and what sort of a style you want in the rooms you'll be spending the most time in.

Bedrooms: For a family house where the possibility of additions exists, remember it is simpler to add a room during initial construction than to remodel or build an addition later. If you only need 2 bedrooms at present, an extra room might be used for an office, storage, or even left unfinished and unfurnished until such time as it is needed.

Bathrooms: In practical terms, one bathroom can suffice in almost any circumstances, but if the house is for multiple people, two makes life much easier. Having two or more bathrooms will also increase the resale value in the convenience minded home buyer's mind.

Special function rooms: Consider if your lifestyle requires rooms suitable for special functions, such as formal dining, office space, a den, or a play room.

2.

3Design the utility areas with an eye toward function. . Carefully your design:

Kitchen Garage Laundry room Storage areas

3.

4Place windows with the maximum energy efficiency in mind

. If you are building a home with large windows in a living room, consider facing these toward the most appealing view andat an angle that maximizes the natural lighting when you'll want it most.[5]

Part 3 of 7: Getting the Necessary Permits

1.

1Secure a construction loan. If you haven't already started

this process when securing the land, you'll need to figure outa way to fund the project and a construction loan is the most recommended method of doing so. Apply for a construction loan by filling out a loan application, called a 1003, and submitting it to a loan officer along with a credit report.[6] The completed loan application will need to include information like:

The type of loan requested The amount of money requested Your current living situation Your social security number W-2 info

4Prepare an Estimated Cost Breakdown (ECB). This is the breakdown of each particular cost of construction of the home.The foundation, lumber, framing, plumbing, heating, electrical, painting, and builder's profit, etc. When you hirea builder, they will usually complete this form to show you exactly what it will cost to build your new home.

Price building materials in the area. How much is the cost of wood in the prospective area? Labor? Vinyl? It's helpful to give some though to how much the process will end up costing, aside from the land purchase itself. Try and get a rough estimate of how much it'll cost to build the kind of house youwant to build at the location you're considering.

5Decide how much of the actual construction you will do yourself. Building a house involves several specific trades toensure quality work, so it is usually better to have trained craftsmen perform things you're unable to do at an expert-level. You can probably paint the house and put up drywall yourself, but maybe you want to hire those jobs out. Try and find an economic and practical balance between doing projects yourself to save money and hiring out more intricate and difficult work. Consider hiring out:

Site workers to clear and grade the land, prepping it for building

Bricklayers to lay the foundation Framers to perform rough carpentry, frame up the walls, and

install the trusses or stick-framed rafters Roofers to install the roof and insulate the house

Electricians, plumbers, and HVAC workers to do the difficult interior work of outfitting the home for living

Trim and finish carpenters for interior design work Flooring installers to lay the carpet, hardwood, or tile

2.

Part 4 of 7: Breaking Ground

1.

1Lay the foundation. After a site crew excavates the plot, you'll begin the work of laying the foundation. The type and design of the foundation will depend upon the size of your house, the ground in which its laid, local building codes, andwhether or not your home will have a basement. The most recommended and strongest type of foundation is concrete block.

The excavation crew should first survey and stake the dimensions of the foundation and excavate it to the desired depth, then smooth it out to a workable surface, sometimes overlaying dirt or gravel to build upon.[8]

2.

2Pour the concrete foundation on which to build. These are usedto distribute the weight evenly and should be somewhat wider than the foundation walls, forming the perimeter of the home.

3Set up building lines. This means putting either batter boardsor corner stakes at each corner of the house foundation to level and square up the foundation. Use a transit or building level to make sure the building lines are level and square, and check by measuring corner to corner, diagonally, to make sure the walls and corners are square.

3.

4Install your chosen type of floor. There are two common floor types, called "slab on grade" or "pier and beam/joist" floors.Before pouring the slab floor, you need to make sure you've installed rough plumbing lines so that they are accurately placed. After the slab is poured, it'll be too late to adjust.

Part 5 of 7: Building the Walls and Roof

1.

1Frame the walls of your house. You will need to lay out the wall lines on the floor, beginning at one corner, marking yourbottom plate (called the rat sill) to attach to anchor bolts.

As you work, mark the location of doors, windows, and interiorwall corners on the sill. Be sure to use special metal connectors/straps at the floor and tops of walls as required by code for storm and earthquake proofing.[9]

Use tees at wall intersections, substantial headers for openings in load bearing walls, and allow space at each rough opening for the feature to be installed.

2.

2Plumb the walls and brace them securely. Install sheathing if required. Otherwise, use sheet metal straps to diagonally brace all exterior wall corners. Make sure all studs (verticalframing members, usually 2 inch by 4 inch (5 cm by 10 cm) nominal lumber, graded standard or better) are securely nailedin place, straight and square to the wall line.

3.

3Lay out the marks for setting your roof trusses. You may want to stick frame your roof, cutting and installing rafters and ceiling joists yourself (especially if you want a usable atticspace). Prefab trusses, however, are engineered with lighter, smaller lumber for maximum strength. There are some trusses for attics with high-pitched roofs and dormers, as well as more traditional roofs. Research your options and choose something that works well for your home.

4.

4Set each truss in the correct location. Generally, this means 24 inches (61.0 cm) apart from one another, sometimes 16 inches (40.6 cm) for stick-bracing structures. Attach hurricane clips or other connectors to secure them, plumb the center of each truss, and temporarily support them with a rat run bracing near the peak.

Install diagonal gable bracing for a roof with gable ends to prevent the roof frame from leaning when you install the roof decking. For a hip roof, install king rafters and hip rafters,being careful to keep the adjacent plane of the roof consistent and straight.[10]

5.

5Nail a sub-facia board to connect the ends of each rafter. Build outlookers to support the gable overhang and gable facia boards, if used. Deck the trusses or rafters with plywood, oriented strand lumber, or nominal lumber such as 1 x6 inch (2.5 cm x 15 cm) tongue and groove boards.

In areas where high winds or snow-loading (accumulation) is possible, make sure the roof decking is secured and structurally able to withstand these severe forces and conditions. Use appropriate bracing and fasteners for this scope of work.

6Install roofing felt for use as a moisture barrier. To make sure the elements don't set you back as you're working, it's important to install a moisture barrier on your roof even before it's completed. Use 15 or 30 pound (6.8 or 13.8 kg) roofing felt tar paper and simplex nails, roofing tacks, or plastic capped felting tacks to secure it. Begin felting the decking at the lower edge, allowing it to hang over slightly, and overlap subsequent layers to keep water from getting underthis moisture barrier.

6.

7Install the exterior siding and exterior features such as windows and doors.Many locations require some type of metal flashing to prevent water from penetrating the edges and the gables, but you may be able to seal them sufficiently with caulking if it is permitted and you are able.

7.

8Install your final roof. You may choose painted sheet metal panels, rolled steel formed to lengths needed on site, or

shingles, terra cotta tiles, or other materials, depending on your preference, costs, and products available at your location. Consider ridge vents, attic exhaust fans, vented dormers, and other architectural details which can increase the comfort of your house while decreasing cooling costs in hot climates.

Part 6 of 7: Starting on the Interior

1.

1Install pipes for potable water, waste drains, and drain ventsin walls. These can be capped off to trim out after the walls are finished, especially if the local codes require pressure testing before finishing may be done.

2.

2Install HVAC (air conditioning and heat) ductwork, air handlers, and refrigerant piping. Stub out your ductwork for return air and supply air registers. Insulate the ductwork if it is not pre-insulated, and seal all joints. Fasten ductwork as needed to prevent movement and ensure the your conduits areflush.

3.

3Rough-in electrical outlets. Most likely, there will be electrical outlets, light fixtures, and special wiring required for large appliances like water heaters, stoves, and air conditioning that will be necessary to do as soon as possible. Install the main electrical panel box, and any sub-panels your design requires, and install wiring from these to each device.

Commonly, #12 Romex cable is used for ordinary lighting and outlet circuits, and nail-in electrical boxes are attached to thewall studs, with the front edge protruding to allow for the finished wall material to be flush.

4.

4Install insulation. Insulate walls where it is required. Depending on the climate, you will want to get location-specific guidelines for this area of work, as warmer climates will use substantially less insulation in the walls than warmer areas. Insulate the spaces between ceiling joists and walls.[11]

Walls are usually insulated with a minimum R-value of 13, and ceilings with a minimum of 19, but as much as 30, or even morefor lowering fuel and utility usage.

5.

5Install your ceilings. Gypsum wall board made of drywall or sheetrock is a common material used for this application, but there are other products including acoustical ceiling tiles, beaded plywood paneling (to simulate planking), and even natural wood lumber that are commonly used for creating solid ceilings.

Part 7 of 7: Installing the Essentials

1.

1Install plumbing fixtures as necessary. Install the bath tub, shower enclosure, and any other large plumbing fixtures which will interface with finished walls. Make sure plumbing rough-ins are correctly located, and pipes are protected and securely anchored.

2.

2Install the wall board or paneling on interior walls. Traditionally, builders will use gypsum wall board, wood, or masonite paneling for this purpose. Panels are generally jacked 3⁄8 inch (1.0 cm) above the floor to avoid moisture from floor spills and regular mopping when you clean the house.

There are many interior wall products available, so the installation process will depend on the material used. Apply finish to gypsum wall board, taping and skimming/floating all joints to an acceptable level of finish. Finish/texture any ceilings during this step if applicable.

3.

3Place wall trim. Put up any trim you are using for baseboards,crown mouldings, and corners, and install your interior doors and jambs. If you are using natural wood trim and mouldings, you will want to paint the walls prior to this step. Pre-finishing the trim before installing will make the final finish easier, but any nail-holes will probably still need attention after installation.

4.

4Caulk, paint, and install wall coverings on any walls that require it. Most likely, you will want to prime wall board, then apply a finish coat. Use a paint roller where possible, cutting-in with brushes around appurtenances and in corners.

Be sure to trim out the electrical devices, install lights andother fixtures, and install breakers in panel boxes if they were not pre-installed.

5.

5Install cabinets and other mill work. You will probably need at least basic kitchen storage cabinets and a bathroom vanity cabinet for a sink, other cabinets may include a bar, upper storage cabinets, and lower units with drawers for kitchen utensils and supplies.

6.

6Install flooring. Note that for carpet floors, base boards areinstalled prior to flooring, leaving 3⁄8 inch (1.0 cm) for the carpet to tuck underneath it. For hardwood or composite floors, this trim is installed after the floor is finished.

7.

7Install appliances and have the utilities turned on. To start checking to make sure everything is working appropriately,

activate the water and electricity to start experimenting withyour handiwork. Adjust the jobs as necessary and work on finishing the house to a state at which you'll want to move inand start enjoying your new home.

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Tips Building codes require various inspections at different stages

of construction, so they are not included in steps. Some basicinspections may include:

o Foundation inspection, prior to placing concrete footings

o Slab and plumbing rough-in, prior to placing concrete slab

o Framing inspection, after decking is installed on roof, prior to shingles or other roofing

o Electrical rough-in

o Plumbing rough-in (may include a pressure or leak test)

o Percolation testing, for permitting septic tanks and lines, especially strict near streams and bodies of water.

o Mechanical rough-in (for ductwork installation)

o Final inspections on each scope of work

Coordinate temporary electrical power with your local utility.

o Use a project plan such as www.homebuildingprojectplan.com to organize your thoughts and timelines.Ad