TECHNOLOGIES IN MASSCUSTOMIZATION

COE Submission: Business Technology for FashionValue Chain

Submitted By:Anshu YadavFlorence Amo

Mamu HageNousheen Qazi

Praneeti RauniyarSubhasmita PanigrahiMFM-Semester lll

INTRODUCTIONMass customization is a broad term encompassing vast changes inmanufacturing, distribution and delivery of products. Given thechanging characteristics of today’s consumer interests andindustrial competition, mass production systems cannot satisfyboth manufacturers and consumers; however, a mass customizationsystem may achieve both manufacturer and consumer satisfaction,providing a customized product.

It is imperative that to adopt mass customization, anorganization has to bring many changes across the functions.Broadly we can classify these changes into three categories.First, Technological advancement such as computer-aided design,body scanning, digital printing etc., Second in terms ofadopting flexible manufacturing systems, computer integratedmanufacturing tools and techniques and third, organizationalchanges in terms of flexible culture and empowering employees byassigning more responsibilities. By adopting these kinds ofbusiness strategies under mass customization umbrella concept,it will shorten product-life and development cycles as well asallowing manufacturers to respond more quickly and flexibly tochanging consumers’ drives. Finally, consumers will have accessto a variety of high quality, customized products whilemanufacturers can reduce excess inventory and markdowns. Masscustomization is a paradigm shift from Product Centric approach(made-to-stock) to Customer Centric Approach (which falls undermade-to-order), where customers involvement also shift frompurchase to development of the product.

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Simply stated, mass customization is about choice; about givingconsumers a unique end product when, where and how they want it.During the last 15 years, choice has become an importantingredient of consumer purchasing decisions. Within thistimeframe, the number of automobile models has increased from140 to 260; the selection of soft drinks from 20 to 90.Retailers today not only want more collections per season butalso more styles within the season. Various companies delivernew lines of clothes to their stores every four to six weeks.H&M and Zara, for example, have achieved this by speeding up thedesign cycle with computer technology. Zara uses data from its426 stores to spot new trends, and offers 10,000 new products ayear. TopShop sells as many as 30 pairs of knickers a minute,6,000 pairs of jeans a day and 35,000 pairs of shoes every week.The shelf life of a garment has fallen from six months to a fewweeks. This new consumer-oriented marketplace is forcingmanufacturers to change from a "plan and push" product chainmentality to a demand-driven, "sense and respond" value chain.

Mass customization is the process of delivering wide-marketgoods and services that are modified to satisfy a specificcustomer need. It is a marketing and manufacturing techniquethat combines the flexibility and personalization of "custom-made" with the low unit costs associated with mass production.It allows end-users to add and/or change certain functionalitiesof a core product. It is sometimes called "made to order" or"built to order”.Mass Customization is the process of efficiently servingcustomers uniquely.

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HISTORY

If we look at the evolution of the mass customization, thehistory takes us many years back. In fact our civilizationstarted with mass customization in the pre-industrializationera, moved to mass production and again today we are looking atmass customization in the near future. Before the start of theIndustrial Revolution in the late 1700s, products were hand madefor each individual requirement. A tailor, for example, wouldmeasure each customer, ask about the preferred style, fabric,colour, hang and fit and then make the garment as a 'one-off'.Inevitably, though, the cost of goods was high.Industrialization changed all that. Mass production became acost effective method of manufacture, with long runs of similarproducts made in the most efficient – most automated - mannerpossible. Prices fell and people had more spending power. Thisled to an eventual circle of market demand where consumers couldafford what they wanted and began to want different things.These changes coincided with technological developments thatenabled standard designs to be adapted at low cost. Productscould be 'mass customized' - individualized and adapted todifferent tastes at an affordable price. So if mass productionwas about making more, mass customization is about producing theright product. And if manufacturers can change designs quicklyat minimal cost, then shorter and shorter runs become costeffective to the point where each customer can be provided withexactly what he or she wants. In terms of clothing, masscustomization does not mean a return to the process where itemsare produced from scratch for each wearer as in the coutureindustry or traditional bespoke tailoring. It meansmanufacturing 'en mass' standard designs which have their sizesadapted to fit the individual; designs that are adapted withdifferent pockets, cuff shapes, fabrics and colours; andstandard products that are personally embellished in some way.

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The change to mass customization affects every aspect of abusiness, from marketing, order entry, pre, during and postproduction control, supply chain management, warehousing,dispatch, distribution, the total supply chain logisticspackage.

According to 1997 Annual Consumer Outlook Survey, 36% ofconsumers are willing to pay up to 15% more for customizedapparel and footwear, and will wait up to three weeks to receivetheir customized product. This report, however, does not workagainst the values of low cost and fast delivery in the consumermarket. Most of today’s consumers require high-qualitycustomized products at low prices with faster delivery. Withthis sort of consumer interest in mind, the concept of masscustomization emerged in the late 1980’s.

But there is huge difference in today’s mass customizationcompared to previous one and this differentiation is eminentbecause of technological advancement. But, customer focusobjective is common in both old and current mass customizationconcepts.

Mass customization was prevalent before twentieth century. Atthis stage, depending on the premium paid, degree ofcustomization could be introduced in the product. But, in earlytwentieth century, mass production come in vogue with thefundamental benefit of economy of scale and it was at peak inmid century. People shifted from mass customization to massproduction owing to cost benefit they received from massproduction activity. In late twentieth century, masscustomization started picking up with more ventures coming inmass customization space. Mass customization requiresmanufacturers to be market driven and customer-responsive, whichmeans offering more product variation and allowingcustomization. Future looks very promising for the masscustomization looking at prevalent trends consumers areexhibiting towards mass customization.

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MASS CUSTOMIZATION CONCEPT

Pre-Production:

The most technologically sophisticated formof mass customization is 'made to measure'.In reality, patterns are simply adapted fromexisting pieces using measurements takenmanually or with a non-contact 3D bodyscanner. These will record millions of bodymeasurements, which are analyzed into useableinformation and transmitted, probably via theInternet, to the factory.

The customer also has the opportunity to choose the garmentdesign and any style changes from a menu of offerings, alongwith the fabric and colour. Design simulation and 3D colourmapping all come into play here since they allow the customer to

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view a virtual copy of the garmentbefore the order is placed. If there isan internal link between the showroomand the manufacturing unit itautomatically check fabric and trimstock positions, warning the customer ofany delay in fabric availability. Themajority of made-to-measure systems fromapparel CAD companies (Gerber Technologyetc.) automatically select the 'nearest

fit' pattern pieces and manipulate these according theindividual's measurements. Markers are then produced and cutautomatically using a single ply cutter. Automated fabrichandling is also an option. Some company, for example, hascreated a quick change cradle feed system which is linked to acomputer controlled static spreading machine and built in to aconveyors table feeding an automatic single ply cutter. In itsown configuration linked with a knife, cuts made-to-measuresuits in less than five minutes.

The automatic roll handling and fabric administration systemcontrols fabric rolls from their receipt into the warehouse,through to laying up, and returning part rolls back to thewarehouse. Fabric rolls are fed onto cloth inspection machineswhere width is automatically checked and any fault coordinatesnetworked through to the marker making room so that they do notappear in a cut part. When different orders use the same roll offabric, the system automatically programmes these to be cuttogether. The warehouse can hold many rolls of fabric, and lotsof rolls are selected for cutting each day.

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VARIANTS OF MASS CUSTOMIZATION Collaborative customization

Firms talk to individual customers to determine theprecise product offering that best serves the customer's needs.It is also referred to as personalized marketing technique. Thisinformation is then used to specify and manufacture a productthat suits that specific customer. For example, some clothingcompanies will manufacture blue jeans to fit an individualcustomer. This is also being taken into deeper customization via3D printing with companies like Shapeways.

Adaptive customization

Firms produce a standardized product, but this product iscustomizable in the hands of the end-user (the customers alterthe product themselves). This type of customization is moreprevalent these days in electronics for example; Dell laptopsuse standardized covers for their laptops. They have a set ofdesigns from which the customers can choose.

Transparent customization

Firms provide individual customers with unique products, withoutexplicitly telling them that the products are customized. Inthis case there is a need to accurately assess customer needs.

Cosmetic customization

Firms produce a standardized physical product, but market it todifferent customers in unique ways. Marketing is designed insuch a way that each consumer feels that the product is madespecifically keeping in mind their needs.

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PROCESS OF MASS CUSTOMIZATION

Body Scanning:

The system consists of aPC computer, a controlcircuit box, dark booth inwhich two linear stagesare mounted on the frontand back sides of aperson. Each stage carriesa multiple laser lineprojector (eye-safe) and aCCD camera to scan the entire body when the stage moves upward.This scanning unit is connected to the control box governed bythe computer to perform triangulation measurements. Allscanning and measuring commands are sent from the PC through theparallel port to the control box, which drives the scanningunits to proper positions, turns on the laser projectors, andthen triggers the cameras to grab images. The scanning units maystop 5-6 times to ensure the whole body to be scanned.

The depth calculation is based on a triangulation algorithm.

Body Measurement:

After both front and back body surfaces are scanned, the two images can be combined and body dimensions can be measured on the 3D data. There are many pre-defined key measurements that are used for apparel design. These key measurements are associated with certain landmarks of the body. They type of a body measurement can be the distance or angle between two landmarks (e.g., yoke and should slope), the length of a surfacecurve (e.g., crotch), and the circumference of the body at a landmark (e.g., bust). The measurements can be used to generatea body-form or directly be sent to a 2D CAD system for pattern

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alteration. It takes three major steps to extract body dimensions from the 3D body data.

1. Locate body landmarks, such as waist, chest and neck. Basedon basic features of body, most landmarks can be automatically detected. Since human body shapes vary dramatically, manual intervention may also be needed to adjust landmarks for correct measurements.

2. Process the data using fitting techniques, such as B-splinecurves, to smooth and connect points of a cross section at one landmark or a space curve between two landmarks.

3. Compute the measurements such as circumference, distance, angle, etc. Calculating body circumferences at landmarks isa major task in body size extraction from a scanned body image.

BODY SCAN TECHNOLOGY will help apparel firms improve the fit oftheir mass-produced clothing by providing valuable measurementdata on consumer populations. Most systems for sizing ready-to-wear garments have been based on very limited information.Before new body scanner technology made anthropometric (body-measurement) studies affordable, many sizing systems were basedon a traditional survey of the civilian population conducted in1941 that is not accurate for today's body shapes.

In the past, apparel firms have not had anthropometric data, andtherefore based many decisions about sizing on experimentationand subsequent feedback from their customers. This is not a veryeffective system for gathering data, as most consumers makedecisions about garment fit at home or in the fitting room anddo not communicate their experiences reliably or at all.

Few traditional anthropometric surveys were conducted because ofthe high labor costs associated with measuring large numbers ofpeople with traditional tools. Body scanners have changed this.Apparel companies will benefit from several anthropometric

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studies that have scanned or are currently scanningrepresentative groups of people from the population. The goal ofthese studies is to gain a better understanding of the currenthuman sizes and shapes in order to develop sizing systems thatfit most of the population.

Body scans illustrate significant variation in proportions amongthree women, each of whom wears a size 10 pant. (Image: CornellBody Scan Research Group)

Sizing Systems

A sizing system is a set of clothing sizes that is created by anapparel firm to fit the range of people in a target market. Themost common type of sizing system in the apparel industry startswith a base size which is then proportionally graded to create amultiple set of sizes. Sizing systems can use generic labels,such as small, medium, large, and extra large; numbered sizessuch as 10, 12, and 14; or body measurements such as 17" neckand 32" sleeve length. Sizing systems vary in range from only afew sizes to a full spectrum of sizes 2-20.

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Typically, an apparel company arrives at a sizing system for aproduct line as follows. First, it defines a target market andtypical customers by identifying demographic characteristics,such as age, income, ethnicity, and lifestyle. Then the firmchooses a single person-the "fit model” to be the idealized bodyshape for that product and market. Prototype garments arecreated, then evaluated and modified in fitting sessions on thesingle fit model. A base size pattern, often size 8 for women,is perfected for this prototype garment, and proportional graderules are used to scale a set of patterns up and down for therest of the size range, e.g., 2-16.

Proportional grade rules do not address the differences in thebasic shapes and body proportions of the population, such assmall or large waist, short or long torso, or the differencesacross ages and target markets. A single fit model has aparticular body shape that is translated to the full range ofsizes. Providing good fit using a finite set of sizes for analmost infinite range of body types is a challenging task.

(Image: Cornell Body Scan Research Group)

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The star on this graph identifies the fit model, whosemeasurements are used to develop a sizing system for a company'starget market. The other points on the graph display the pantfit for 140 female subjects with various body proportions. Sincethe pants for each subject were chosen by hip fit, the hip trendline (blue) is flattest, indicating the least variation in fitat the hip. The waist trend line (red) indicates the greatestvariation in pant fit: people who have straighter proportionsthan the fit model will have tight pants at the waist. Thosewith curvy proportions are closer to the fit model'smeasurements and are better fitted.

Initial research focused on the development of protocols forcollecting body scan data including issues such as what eachstudy participant should wear how they should be positioned, andhow the data should be organized and measured. The software thatcomes with the body scanner creates automatic lists of linearmeasurements very quickly, but this is only a fraction of theinformation that is available from a body scan.

Several 3D visualization options are now available so that userscan view the body scan as a smooth surface, points, or slices,and can rotate, reposition, and zoom in to critical fit areas.New ways to visualize and measure misfit are now possible. Inthe past we could only look at the garment from the outside andsee where it stretches or sags. Now we can actually measure thespace between the outside of the body and the inside of theclothing.

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Four kinds of measurements reveal much about body shape andclothing fit: volumes, surface areas, linear measures(circumferences), and slice areas (cross sections). (Image:Deviron, LLC)

POLYWORKS BY INNOVMETRIC - The program merges into one layer theoverlapping data from different camera views. The software alsohas tools that can be used to patch holes in the scan, so thatlinear, surface area, slice area, and volume measures can bemade of the body. In their first major project Ashdown and Lokercollected body scan data on women from an apparel company'sspecific target market. Subjects were scanned to capture theirbody size and shape, and were scanned again wearing the best-fitting pants from the company's size range. The measurementdifferences between the body and pant scan define the level offit or misfit. This is a new kind of information that can beused to evaluate the company's sizing system and to proposechanges that will fit more of the target market, i.e., increase

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the number of people that the company wants as customers who canfind garments that fit well.

New sizing systems and grade rules may be recommended based onthe results of this study. The goal of the research is toprovide a model process and mathematical approach to improve fitfor individual companies based on their target markets andcurrent sizing systems.

A 3D body scan shows the body in a new way and can beuncomfortable to view. Scan subjects may be more comfortableviewing their scans in an abstract format, such as the one onthe right, rather than one that captures every detail of the

body. (Image: Katherine Schoenfelder)

FLIXFIT BY POIKOS - It is a body measurement solution for E-commerce. It is used to take accurate body measurements usingordinary inexpensive webcams, tablets, and smartphones. Thisenables a quick and simple way for users to find out their size,and make more informed choices about the clothes that they buy.

 

To know the exact body measurements, one needs to simply standin front of the camera and follow the on-screen instructionswhich will guide the client into a couple of positions. Bysimply pressing the FlixFit button, the patent-pending image

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processing algorithms calculate the personal 3D body image, withdozens of accurate measurements.

STYKU LLC has created the webs only virtual fitting room thattruly simulates fit. Styku's VFR is designed to overcome themain barrier in on-line apparel sales - the inability to "trybefore I buy". By overcoming this barrier, Styku isrevolutionizing the way consumers shop on-line and retailerssell on-line. Styku's virtual fitting room accurately shows theconsumer the correct fit and drape of a garment in every size.It is called virtual sizing. This helps in dramatically reducingonline apparel return rates and customer hesitancy.

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It is estimated that 53% of consumers still won’t risk buyingclothing online for fear of having to return items. Those thatdo buy apparel online often return anywhere from 15-45% of allpurchases. Without knowing how clothing item will fit their ownbody and in what size, consumers often purchase multiple sizesof the same style, try them on at home, and return the othersizes. Styku recommends the correct size to the consumer,eliminating the need to order a size up and down, and reducingthe return rate.

An online or virtual fitting room replaces the need for sizecharts or fit guides. Using Styku’s patented virtual fittingroom technology, consumers can visually access how a garmentfits on their body. Styku accurately duplicates the drape of anystyle by simulating the garment’s pattern and unique fabriccharacteristics on the shape of the consumers’ body, and thendisplays the output in the online fitting room. A color mapfeature is another tool a consumer can use to determine how thegarment will fit. Consumers can compare multiple sizes at onceto see which size fits best.

SYMCAD BY TELMAT INDUSTRIE - Already exploited for more than 10years by military users in order to optimize the delivery ofuniforms, 3-D body digitizing has become the new technologicalchallenge for new applications such as fitness, the generationof 3D avatars for entertainment, on-line apparel retail, made-to-measure clothing (mass customization) and much more.

The SYMCAD 3D digitizing is capable of capturing human subjectsquickly enough, of reconstructing the complete set of 3D bodydata with an unequalled robustness and automatically extractingbody measurements and other information.

The new ST (Special Tracking) version of SYMCAD still improvesthe quality of 3D data and provides specific measurements forergonomics on the basis of the ISO-7250 standard with a very

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high level of accuracy by using wireless active landmarks whichare automatically detected and identified. SYMCAD ST may also beequipped with 3D digitizing peripherals for hand, head or foot.Data coming from all these devices are merged into a uniquedatabase.

Advantages

Digital projection of structured white light which is considered to be the safest body scanning technology - laser-based scanning technologies, even at low power levels, have been rejected for perceived safety issues.

Automatic and quick self calibration with control of the measuring area without anyintervention of the operator

Not affected by intrinsic body sway movements (high speed 3D acquisition)

Not affected by skin and underwear color

Quick 3D reconstruction 3D for an immediate use of 3D data

Automatic detection of anatomical landmarks

Wireless active landmarks may be used for applications in the domain of ergonomics

Low investment and maintenance costs

3D digitization in grayscale or in colors

Specifications

3D acquisition time: less than 2.5 seconds (in grayscale) and less than 3.5 seconds (in colors)

Dimensions of the standard measure and calibration gate: 80x 140 x 220 cm

External dimensions of the standard booth: 3,85 x 1,40 x 2,20 m 

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Number de camera views: from 4 digital video cameras (high resolution: 1392 x 1040)

Average 3D point density: 30 points / sq. cm

Noticed accuracy: ± 5 mm (circumferential) / ± 2 mm (linear)

Output file formats: VRML, IV, DXF, (3D data) - ORD, XLS, XML

Average compressed 3D file size: 6 MB

Controller PC minimal specifications (supplied): Single processor Intel Core 2 Duo @ 2,4 GHz / Memory 4 GB /Operating System MS Windows XP Pro

Body Modelling:

3D body modelling is a procedure togenerate a body form on the computer screenusing a set of key measurements from ascanned body. A body form, also calleddress form, serves as a personalized modelfor style manipulation and fit adjustment.A computer generated body form allows adesigner to freely rotate and zoom the formfor viewing and measuring the body shape. A human body represents a fairly complexsurface. To construct a body form, a bodyneeds to be divided into a number of relatively simple sub-surfaces that can be approximated by surface functions. Forexample, an upper torso can be divided into seven sections:neck, shoulder, chest above waist, abdomen.

Virtual Garment:

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A virtual garment can bedirectly created on the bodyform by following the shapeof the 3D body form andtaking a desirable ease toensure the personal fit.The software provides a toolthat allows the user to cutthrough the garment and bodyform horizontally andvertically to check andchange the ease at anyposition by specifying a gap distance. The structure linesincluding seam lines, outlines, and grain lines can be alsoadded. After the design is finished, the garment can be takenoff from the body form and flattened into 2D pattern pieces forfurther modification in an apparel CAD system.

CAD:

Geber Technology: Gerber Technology offers an array of software packages designedto address many aspects of the apparel design and manufacturingprocess. Gerber is continuously pursuing the latest technologiesto improve their software. Currently, the main focus at Gerberis speed. They are investing in cutting edge technology thatenables our customers to shorten their product developmentcycles so they can get their products to market faster. Speedhas always been one of the defining features of the PDS,however, Gerber has developed unique tools to expedite thepatternmaking process.

It has recently introduced 3D Direct, a user-friendly 3Dflattening software package. This software takes a 3D model of acar seat, for example, and allows the user to flatten itautomatically into 2D parts which can then be used in theAccuMark or CutWorks software. This can take days even weeks outof their product development cycle. The 3D flattening softwareminimizes the need to make “full-size physical prototypes”

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required to create flattened patterns. The software also hascolor coded stress visualization feature that allows thedesigner to view points of stretch and sag.

Optitex:OptiTex specializes in the development of innovative, easy-to-operate, CAD/CAM solutions for sewn products and other relatedindustries. One of their main focuses is 3D simulation andanimation. 3D fashion software with the ability to producerealistic cloth simulation will soon be available. A demo of thesoftware shows a virtual model walk toward the viewer, turn andwalk back. The flow and bounce of the fabric is quiteimpressive.

They are also focusing on patternmaking software that works 3Dto 2D, the ability to work the reverse process. In OptiTexRunway, changes can be made to a 3D image, and the style changescan instantly be seen in the 2D environment. The patternmakercan change the styling according to their preferences, forexample, adding darts and dropping necklines. Thesesophisticated visualization tools make it more convenient forthe merchandisers and sales personnel. Styles can be adjustedaccording to the customer's preferences, viewed and sentdirectly to the patternmaker via email.

New software is being developed to generate patterns that willproduce garments with better fit. Patterns that accommodate

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unique body shapes can be generated by two different methods:specific points on a computer generated drape can be manipulatedor patterns can be tweaked according to a computer generateddrape produced from an actual body scan of the individual. Thelong term goal at OptiTex is to develop software in which thepatternmaker can draw directly on a 3D form to create 2Dpatterns.

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Lectra:

Lectra is one of the largest global suppliers of software to thetextile and apparel industries. At the beginning of 2005, Lectrareleased the latest version of their PDS system - Modaris V5.Four new features were added to further assist the patternmaker:

Addition of 40 new functions which will allow the user toquickly and accurately perform traditionally manual tasks.

Ability to export and import Modaris V5 files more easily. Addition of a “dynamic chart.” The chart contains

measurements that the patternmaker can define andmanipulate to produce better fitting patterns. From themeasurements, a template can be produced and used to modifysimilar styles. The modifications made to the pattern canbe executed quickly and accurately with little operatorparticipation.

Addition of Modaris Asset Manager, which allows the user tocreate models. Utilizing a combination of pre-defined dataand user-defined data, the patternmaker can retrievemodels or create new models.

Lectra is continually evolving their software to better suit theneeds of their customer. It plans to offer a unique service thatwill benefit the customer, retailer and manufacturer.Measurements collected from a body scanner will be used tocreate a “size survey.” The data in the survey will allow thecompany to segment their customers into two groups – those whofit ready-to-wear apparel and those with more challengingdimensions, and therefore require “made to measure” apparel. Itis a win-win situation as better fitting clothes would lead toincreased customer satisfaction and fewer clothes relegated tothe sales bin.

Lectra has designed a system that will enable patternmakers andstylists to assess the fit and style of a garment using 3Dprototyping. The system analyzes the topography of the pattern,noting how the pattern pieces are assembled. From this data thesystem drapes a 3D garment onto a 3D model. Fabric propertiesare taken into account to reproduce a realistic virtual drape.

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3D prototyping is an excellent visual tool that allows thepatternmakers, stylists and merchandisers to fine tune fit andstyle in a 3D virtual environment.

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PAD System Technologies

PAD System Technologies was founded in 1988. The company isbased in Montréal, Canada. PAD was one of the first companies tooffer CAD/CAM systems in both Windows and Macintosh. Today, PADsystems can be seen in over 50 countries and is available in 15different languages. The major plus as to why y PAD systems havebecome so popular is the ergonomics of the modules. It isparticularly easy to learn and easy to use with fewer clicksthan other systems. PAD's unique Plan View allows the patternmaker to use work methods that are similar to manual patternmaking, yet much faster. Any type of patterns can be designedquickly from scratch or blocks in less working steps.

[TC]²’S NX12 3D Body Scanner:3D to 2D automatic pattern unwrapping is one of [TC]²'s newestsoftware developments. [TC]² has been researching 3D to 2Dpatternmaking for the last two years. The main impetus for theresearch was to produce better fitting slacks for women. In theready-to-wear market, the 2D patternmaking process assumes astandard body shape for each size category. Using standardmeasurements to create garments neglects the inherentvariability of a woman's body. A pattern can be made from a 3Dform in just a few steps. An individual's measurements arecollected from [TC]²'s NX12 3D body scanner. The measurementsare used to create a virtual 3D model of the individual's body.The 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a garment

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surface in relation to the 3D body model. Once the garmentsurface is defined, the application automatically unwraps andoutputs a 2D flat pattern in .dxf format. Unlike the traditional2D patternmaking methods that assume a single body shape,[TC]²'s 3D to 2D patternmaking process accounts for anindividual's distinctive shape.

At present, [TC]²'s 3D to 2D software can generate pant, skirt,and bodice patterns. Garment ease can be added to the pants tocreate a style specific silhouette. Skirt and bodice slopers canbe generated with customizable features for garment length,sleeve length, and shape. The automatically generated patterncan be imported into any pattern design system having .dxfconversion capabilities, where more complex styling andconstruction features can be added. The ability to mass producecustomized patterns according to an individual's unique bodyshape could offer tremendous benefits to the consumer, retailerand apparel manufacturer. [TC]² continues to research thisexciting field with a long term goal of bringing superior fitand performance to the customer.

Shape Shifter Technology Limited:

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Shape Shifter Technology Limited was founded in 2003 and isbased in New Zealand. They offer breakthrough software whichsignificantly reduces costs for industrial users of textiles,leather, and metal. Their expertise and innovations in high techoptimization provides their customers with cutting-edgesolutions to maximize efficiencies and minimize costs. It aimsto -

Ensuring maximum savings to customers through a passion forexcellence.

Shortening time and reducing labour costs by developing easy-to-use and intuitive software.

Advancing technology through continual research and development of optimisation software.

Valuing customer feedback and providing ongoing support to ensure customer satisfaction.

They aim to equip their customers with the best technologicaltools to outperform competitors and meet the demands of theincreasingly global market. ShapeShifter Technology providesinnovative CAD solutions to the apparel industry. Their productsare designed to reduce fabric consumption, and to automate andoptimise production planning and processes.

SS-Automatic : Creates production and costing markersfaster and more efficient than any other automaticsoftware. Save 2 - 5% of fabric.

SS-Optimiser : Intelligently manipulates markers todecrease their length. By improving an existing markerfabric reduction is guaranteed.

SS-Planner : Produces a set of markers to fulfil an orderat the lowest possible production cost.

SS-API : Integrate any ShapeShifter function into anotherCAD system.

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ShapeShifter solutions are used internationally by customers inthe apparel, furniture, and transportation industries. 

TukaCAD:TukaCad (Digital Pattern Making) is integral to fashion design,the CAD software is capable of producing wide range of solutionsfrom high-fashion couture clothing to mass produced garments,making it the perfect solution for apparel businesses andgarment. 

It is an innovative apparel CAD for manufacturers and designersof any size that will streamline production processes andoperating expenses. It quickly, efficiently and accuratelybuilds patterns, makes markers, and grades for individualgarments or entire lines. It is used for printing reports, plotpatterns, graded nests or full size markers, designed to supportthe most common and standard hardware peripherals, includingTUKAjet High Speed Plotters, HPGL, DMPL, IOLINE, NUMONICS,SUMMOGRAPHICS, CALCOMP, WILD and GERBER ACCUPLOT etc.

TukaCAD Features:

Multi lingual support via audio/video help

Build accurate patterns in a shorter amount of time

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Calculate and make adjustments for shrinkage

Insert half-size grades into existing patterns

Adjust patterns and blocks based on customer feedback

Save money through advanced marker piece placement

Organize patterns digitally without digitizers or storagespace

 User friendly interface

TUKA3D is the fashion industry's most advanced 3D garment samplemaker. TUKA3D's e-fit simulator eliminates the need for trialand error in physical sample creation, ensuring that any designfits right the first time.

TUKA3D Features

Turn 2D patterns into visually stunning 3D samples

Build advanced and accurate fabric simulations

Test fit on customized, life-like models

View garments from multiple angles using lighting effects

See the drape and movement of a garment with animation

Apply prints, patterns, and logos with ease

Share images and videos with customers and clients

TukaStudio is a complete software suite for all the fabric,print, and textile design needs. It allows users to Separate andclean colors quickly, easily, and accurately. It Design weavesand knits with an intuitive fabric developer. It can alsoconvert existing images into repeats, jacquards, and colorways,or build your own from scratch. TukaStudio combines all elementsinto professional quality storyboards. Integrate fully withTUKAad and TUKA3D

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The apparel industry is notoriously fast-paced and competitive.Innovative software companies continue to make improvements totheir PDS to enable apparel companies to better serve theircustomers. Current research focuses on generating patterns thatproduce better fitting garments and 3D visualization tools tohelp fine tune style. With ongoing technological advances anddiligent research, patternmaking software companies continue tosuccessfully address the needs of their customers.

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CUSTOMIZATION PROCESS

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TECHNOLOGIES AND PROCESSES USED IN MASSCUSTOMIZATION

The creation of a garment is comprised of interdependent yetdisparate processes. The appearance and fit of a garment ishighly dependent on each process. Patternmaking is one of theearliest steps in the development of a garment. It is a craftthat has evolved over the centuries into a skilled technicalprocess. Today, patternmaking tools have been carefully tailoredto quickly perform repetitive time-consuming tasks, allowingapparel companies to cater to the fast paced world of fashion.As technology improves and research intensifies, patternmakingsoftware packages continue to become more sophisticated.Software packages are being finely tuned in order tosuccessfully address the needs of the apparel manufacturer.

Patterns can be formed by either a 2D or 3D process. Often acombination of methods is used to create the pattern. The mostcommon 2D patternmaking methods are flat, drafting and reverseengineering. In the flat method, a pattern is generated from anexisting foundation pattern called a sloper or block. A sloperis a pattern that has no seam allowances or style lines. From asloper a myriad of garment styles can be generated. Thepatternmaker creates a new style by adding design details suchas a collar, pocket and pleats. The flat patternmaking method iswidely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast andaccurate. In the drafting method, patterns are made directlyfrom measurements taken from a pre-existing garment, anindividual or a body form. Using the collected measurements, thepattern is drawn directly onto paper. In the 3D patternmakingprocess, the pattern pieces are generated from a 3D form.

Pattern Design Systems (PDS) have become invaluable tools to thepatternmaker, assisting in much of the repetitive tasksassociated with patternmaking. PDS systems are capable of

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storing an incredible amount of data that can be quicklyretrieved, tweaked and re-filed. Using a mouse or stylus,patternmakers are able to swiftly add style details and makechanges. There are many benefits to PDS - speed, accuracy andease of data transmission being some of the most obvious. Intoday's competitive environment, software companies are zeroingin on the growing demands of the apparel manufacturer.

CRM in Mass customization:

Traditionally, companies have viewed the concept as one thatinvolves a customer who selects product features from anassortment of predefined options – say, size seven narrow-widthsneakers made out of red canvas and featuring pink laces. Whilesuch a practice certainly allows a level of customer-driveninnovation, the model doesn’t extend far enough. “To derive truecustomer-driven innovations, “companies need to offer productsthat never before existed (rather than just combinations ofproduct features that customers combine), and the new productsshould be based ideally on information and ordering trendscustomers themselves submit. It’s this model that remains anuntapped frontier and yet that can provide the most value tocompanies.” To get started on a mass customization strategy,business and technology leaders must use their new tools tochange how they view customers. For example, rather than CRMdata and e-mail correspondence primarily for cross-selling andtroubleshooting purposes, examine the data in terms of derivingnew products and services. Making such a shift means thatcustomer data often reserved exclusively for marketing andservice personnel should be made available to other groupsthroughout an organization: namely, research and development andengineers.

CRM IN MASS CUSTOMIZATION

CRM in mass customization involves building a relationship witheach individual customer is hardly possible for mostbusinesses. A targeted approach towards various customer groups

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aims to automate the maximum personalisation possible betweenyour company and your customers. 

Some reasons why customization is useful: satisfaction  participation tailor-made offer loyalty  predictability & trends  efficiency  profit 

Basics of CRM used in Mass customization:

1. DM-activities: “traditional” DM-campaigns still work very well if done properly.

2. Targeted Email-marketing: Email-marketing can be linked to various types of customization. Don’t use Email-marketing as a stand-alone project. 

3. Customized webpages and web experiences: The web offers plenty of possibilities to create a personalised web environment. Especially to develop more efficiency and better results, a structural dialogue for specific customergroups, or any other business reason. 

4. Building communities: some companies have build special interest communities which are directly or indirectly related to their core business. These are build upon creativity and profound preparation and serve a specific business objective. 

5. Business development: Through efficient CRM analytics, one can discover trends and new opportunities for growth. Theseare structural elements within the business where you

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discover a new business opportunity for a specific target group. 

6. Multi channel integration: No matter the channel your customers get in touch with you (phone, email, web, retail etc), all customer information is stored centrally and available regardless the channel. 

7. Social media: By nature, social media are communities wheremembers store and exchange personal information. The major networks already have millions of members. Join them in their lifestyle instead of pushing them to join you. Using this open-source technology, you have plenty of possibilities using widgets, webTV, sharing communities.

As the initial step of customer focused manufacturing, masscustomization requires the application of customer relationshipmanagement (CRM) and lean retailer system. Providing customizingservice and organizing lean retailing system is the corefunction in customer demand management.

1. CRM: applying customer requirement elicitation method toknow, respond to customer demand in order to implementcustomizing services by adopting a set of technologies tocollect and process demand information, and then incorporatingthem into planning, production and shipment.

2. Lean retailer: mass customization must focus on capability torespond accurately and efficiently to the customer demands. Leanretailing may balance the individuals demand and cost savingrequired between customers and manufacturing, meanwhile, supplya seamless business process among customer, design, inventory,manufacturing and logistics. In practice, lean retailingrequires establishing computer systems to handle electronic,real-time orders, and transfer these order data into informationwhich may be used in plan, track production, and manufacture

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products with a flexible and efficient manner. Nowadays,technological advances in communication and transportation havehelped lean retailing more effectively and efficiently like barcode, EDI, and automated distribution centers.

3. Quality Function Deployment: to support the CRM and leanretailing, QFD technology is a distinctive and efficienttechnology base. QFD use matrix to describe the productionlifecycle and reflect the sophisticated relationship amongcustomer demand, design, and manufacture. By using QFD, we maytransform customer demand, such as fabric, size, color, intoactual product characters and management objectives. Furthermorebased on QFD, it is possible to create database to support masscustomization.

Mass Production ManagementTraditional garment manufacturing is progressive bundle system. As the result of apparel technology progress, there are a lot offlexible equipments innovated by apparel machine manufacturing company, such as Gerber, Eton etc. These manufacturing equipments need a wide class of new apparel technologies to support. In order to implement mass customization, the necessarytechnologies usually in different garment-making phases include:

CAD technologies: three dimension measurement, apparel reshaping design, sketching etc. are used in style design, computer aided pattern, grading and marker making.

CAM technologies: single ply cutting machine, unit process system, modular sewing system, digital printing, and auto pressing.

Warehousing and logistics technologies: UPS delivery system, radio-frequency identification, GIS/GPS, bar code.

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SOME SIGNIFICANT CRM TECHNOLOGIES USED IN MASS CUSTOMIZATION:

Lean retailing

Lean retailing is an emerging trend that will soon force manufacturers to build standard products on-demand using spontaneous build-to-order techniques. Power has shifted from manufacturers to lean retailers, such as Wal-Mart, Lands’ End, Dillard’s, Federated Department Stores (Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s),The Gap, J. C. Penny, Sears Roebuck, and Home Depot. These powerful retailers now insist on rock-bottom prices and refuse to carry inventory, expecting manufacturers to provide rapid andfrequent replenishment of retail products based on real-time sales.

How Lean Retail Supports Store Operations

Because leading retailers create trends and also follow them, data matters to them. Retailers need to try new ideas, see if they work, and find out how and what customers are buying. To execute business decisions, a retailer must account for the multiple ways consumers are making purchases. Given this reliance on data and the need for agility, business decision making in retail can be either empowered or constrained by the underlying technical architecture and network.

Consider some of the following ways in which technology can support the collection of data and the testing of new ideas:

• Put new digital displays in the stores and measure the response.

• Place video cameras in critical areas not just to stop theft, but also to observe customer traffic and behavior.

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• Create websites that focus on specific demographics and product lines.

• Put tablets into kiosks to give customers information and access to virtual experts.

• Give associates tablets so that they can access information quickly and so they can speed up checkout.

• Give managers tablets so they can check planogram compliance and monitor tasks, and so they have access to real-time businessintelligence on sales and inventory.

• Monitor, aggregate, and analyze social media feedback on your stores and your brand.

Using data in this way, retailers can get an edge on the competition and better understand the customer. Lean Retail gives operations ways to innovate, test, validate, and then scale effectively from pilot to production.

“Why not make the work easier and more interesting so that people do not have to sweat?”

- Taiichi Ohno – TOYOTA

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EDI : INSIDE CRM:

Electronic Data Interchange

Electronic Data Interchange (EDI) services provide protocols that allow the electronic exchange of information of order,

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invoicing, and payment data with customers and suppliers. It is typically not transacted 'live' over the Internet, but is managed via batch transactions and scheduled updates from proprietary applications.

Many large enterprises require EDI functionality with their partners, a move that, for pricing and capacity reasons, is pushing the need for Internet EDI exchanges.

There has been rapid development with EDI technologies for development of standards for secure email exchange. Salesboom has all the components to build your Internet based EDI to deliver real-time transaction updates if you are positioning forfuture technology placements for data exchange.

The system that enables businesses to exchange and/or transfer data with other businesses electronically through computer networks such as VAN or the Internet. The businesses may exchange data such as invoices, purchase orders and business documents as well as engage in trading of information using EDI systems and mechanisms. EDI systems are increasingly adopted by those involved in B2B markets to improve their business process efficiency.

Benefits of EDI

- Speed – Data can move directly out of one computer system and into another with little to no delay.

- Accuracy – Errors are reduced because data is not being re-keyed. Error rates from entering data are between .5 – 3%.On large volumes of transactions, the possibility for the introduction of errors is enormous.

- Simplicity – EDI standards specify how data will be formatted and where it can be found.

- Security – Much less likely to lose information transmittedthrough EDI than information sent via mail. EDI can be

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accessed only by authorized users, and then there are audittrails and archives of data. EDI data cannot be easily changed by unauthorized users. It is also not subject to viruses.

Example –

The retailer will initiate the process with an electronic transmission of an electronic Purchase Order (850). The supplierwill receive the order, case it and print UCC-128 labels. Then, the order is packed and the UCC-128 labels are placed on the cartons. The cartons are then shipped to the retailer and the supplier electronically transmits an Advanced Ship Notice (856).After the shipment has been sent, the supplier transmits an electronic Invoice (810) for the goods. These electronic documents are sent in a standard Electronic Data Interchange (EDI) format.

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DATA WAREHOUSE:

A data warehouse is a relational database that is designed for query and analysis rather than for transaction processing. It usually contains historical data derived from transaction data, but it can include data from other sources. It separates analysis workload from transaction workload and enables an organization to consolidate data from several sources.

In addition to a relational database, a data warehouse environment includes an extraction, transportation, transformation, and loading (ETL) solution, an online analytical

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processing (OLAP) engine, client analysis tools, and other applications that manage the process of gathering data and delivering it to business users.

It stores information on your customers, that you can analyse and use to understand the needs of your customers, and drive sales. This includes not only the customer's personal details, but their demographics and transaction history. This can also be combined with information captured by web analytics and email marketing systems to provide a powerful single view of each of your customers.

DATA MINING:

The secret to an effective CRM package is not just in what data is collected but in the organising and interpretation of that data. Computers can’t, of course, transform the relationship you have with your customer. That does take a cross-department, top to bottom, corporate desire to build better relationships. But computers and a good computer based CRM solution, can increase sales by as much as 40-50% – as some studies have shown.

This is where Data Mining, Artificial Intelligence, and intelligent search applications come in.

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Data mining commonly involves four classes of tasks:

- Clustering – is the task of discovering groups and structures in the data that are in some way or another “similar”, without using known structures in the data.

- Classification – is the task of generalizing known structure to apply to new data. For example, an email program might attempt to classify an email as legitimate orspam. Common algorithms include decision tree learning, nearest neighbor, naive Bayesian classification, neural networks and support vector machines.

- Regression – Attempts to find a function which models the data with the least error.

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- Association rule learning – Searches for relationships between variables. For example a supermarket might gather data on customer purchasing habits. Using association rule learning, the supermarket can determine which products are frequently bought together and use this information for marketing purposes. This is sometimes referred to as marketbasket analysis.

ENTERPRISE RESOURCE PLANNING (ERP) :

Enterprise resource planning (ERP) systems integrate internal and external management information across an entire organization, embracing finance/accounting, manufacturing, salesand service, customer relationship management, etc. ERP systems automate this activity with an integrated software application. The purpose of ERP is to facilitate the flow of information between all business functions inside the boundaries of the organization and manage the connections to outside stakeholders.ERP systems can run on a variety of computer hardware and network configurations, typically employing a database as a repository for information.

QFD

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Quality Function Deployment (QFD) was developed to bring this personal interface to modern manufacturing and business. In today's industrial society, where the growing distance between producers and users is a concern, QFD links the needs of the customer (end user) with design, development, engineering, manufacturing, and service functions.

QFD is:

- Understanding Customer Requirements- Quality Systems Thinking + Psychology +

Knowledge/Epistemology- Maximizing Positive Quality That Adds Value- Comprehensive Quality System for Customer Satisfaction- Strategy to Stay Ahead of The Game

As a quality system that implements elements of Systems Thinkingwith elements of Psychology and Epistemology (knowledge), QFD provides a system of comprehensive development process for:

- Understanding 'true' customer needs from the customer's perspective

- What 'value' means to the customer, from the customer's perspective

- Understanding how customers or end users become interested,choose, and are satisfied

- Analyzing how do we know the needs of the customer- Deciding what features to include- Determining what level of performance to deliver

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- Intelligently linking the needs of the customer with design, development, engineering, manufacturing, and service functions

- Intelligently linking Design for Six Sigma (DFSS) with the front end Voice of Customer analysis and the entire design system

QFD Builder

Features include:

Unlimited rows, columns and HOQs

In-place sorting of requirements by weight, name, and/or custom ordering

Access from any machine with a current web browser

Simultaneous editing & sharing with remote users (i.e. multi-user collaboration)

And much, much more!

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AUTOMATED DISTRIBUTION CENTRE

A distribution center management system, or DCMS, is anenterprise oriented application designed to track the activitiesperformed in a distribution center. It provides automatedsolutions for all the operations needed for efficientfunctioning of the distribution centers

DCMS is a warehouse management system (WMS) designed to trackand automate various distribution center (DC) inbound, outboundand inventory management processes. The automated DCMS ensuresthat the goods are accurately shipped to the customers and ontime. It streamlines the flow of inventory right from itsreceipt up to shipment in a systematic manner – recording andtracking each activity for effective control and review.

DCMS packages from many providers have been running for manyyears. For example, one category of major users are warehousesites of apparel manufacturers. DCMS systems are designed forall sizes of businesses, warehouses and budgets.

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An effective DCMS helps to prevent stock outs, stock pile-ups,pending orders and loss of sales due to customerdissatisfaction. It improves the warehouse productivity andincreases inventory accuracy too. Other benefits includereducing operating expenses and improvement in efficiencies.

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ERP in Mass customization:

ERP systems in a much more modular fashion in order for thosesystems to be useful for mass customization; too many processeswithin such systems are rigidly specified. While many ERPsystems contain configuration and design tools, masscustomization requires more than just flexible manufacturingcapabilities. “It’s really a change management challenge.“Companies can have all the technology to support masscustomization, but the need of exchange and sharing ofinformation is needed which can be efficiently done through ERP.Companies need to collect and aggregate the informationcustomers submit and derive useful information from that data.“Thus far relatively few companies are doing that because theydon’t view mass customization as a strategy for complimentingthe business; instead they see mass customization as an end toitself.”

Understanding ERP:

Enterprise resource planning (ERP) is business managementsoftware that allows an organization to use a system ofintegrated applications to manage the business. ERP softwareintegrates all facets of an operation, including development,manufacturing, sales and marketing.

Usually ERP systems will have many components including hardwareand software, in order to achieve integration, most ERP systemsuse a unified database to store data for various functions foundthroughout the organization.

Today's ERP systems can cover a wide range of functions andintegrate them into one unified database. For instance,functions such as Human Resources, Supply Chain Management,Customer Relations Management, Financials, Manufacturingfunctions and Warehouse Management functions were all once standalone software applications, usually housed with their owndatabase and network, today, they can all fit under one umbrella- the ERP system.

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Integration is Key to mass customization => through ERP

Integration is an extremely important part to ERP's.

ERP's main goal is to integrate data and processes from allareas of an organization and unify it for easy access and workflow.

ERP's usually accomplish integration by creating one singledatabase that employs multiple software modules providingdifferent areas of an organization with various businessfunctions.

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Mass customization must adopt enterprise-wide business strategy to:

§     Link customers and configuration capability directly to the enterprise via the Internet.

§     Set expectations about what configurations can be produced.

§     Increase customer satisfaction and loyalty.

§     Reduce time-to-market.

§     Reduce internal costs to support evolving product offerings.

§     Decrease order cycle time.

§     Reduce the cost of documenting products.

§     Eliminate artificial product constraints due to effort/complexity to modify or enhance a product line.

§     Eliminate cost of configuration errors.

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§     Increase flexibility and responsiveness to “give customerswhat they want”.

§     Reduce overhead.

§     Eliminate the costs associated with “specials”.

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ADVANTAGES OF MASS CUSTOMIZATION

Higher Profits: By providing tailored products to meetparticular needs, you make comparative shopping difficultand you shift the focus from price to benefits. It ispossible to manufacture at a mass produced price, youhave the option to charge a premium while still retailingbelow the price of a custom product. This in turn will openyour product to a wider market.

Building Relations: Helps build relation with customer andincreases chances of customer loyalty if the customer issatisfied. On-going service can be adapted throughout thecustomer's life because it can be linked to the uniqueproduct. Companies will forge close relationships withtheir suppliers, distributors and customers as they returntime and time again for further unique products. Satisfiedand loyal customers provide excellent references andreferrals.

Lower Costs: Mass customization allows the ordinary man orwomen in the street to acquire a product that has beenproduced to meet their own particular needs yet at acompetitive price - thus providing exceptional value formoney.

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LIMITATIONS OF MASS CUSTOMIZATION

It requires a highly flexible production technology:Developing such technologies can be expensive and time-consuming. Some processes, moreover, are more flexible andeasier to digitize than others. Examples includeinformation processing, printing, and cutting metal rodsand tubes.

It requires an elaborate system for eliciting customers'wants and needs: To make something unique for someonerequires unique information. Eliciting such informationentails, for instance, asking the right questions andtaking the right physical measurements — and that's moredifficult than it appears.

It requires a strong direct-to-customer logistics system:Fulfillment is the weak link in much of e-commerce, and thesame is true of mass customization.

People are not willing to pay to have everythingcustomized: In every case, companies must determine whetherthere is a potential mass market for custom features.Customers demand variety when they differ sharply in theirpreferences for certain attributes of a product. Under suchcircumstances, customization may truly add value. Productsthat require matching different physical dimensions fallinto that category.

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CHALLENGES TO MASS CUSTOMIZATION

Objective of Mass Customization: One of the most obvious but equallydifficult to achieve objective of mass customization is profitrealization and especially when we compare traditionalmanufacturing cost with mass customized cost. The purpose ofmass customization is to keep cost low to match those ofstandardized items, conceptualized, and manufactured anddelivered under traditional mass production approach.

Another important objective of mass customization is to achievehigher level of consumer satisfaction. Any new concept,technique or facility takes its own time to achieve thebreakeven point and same is true here also. Assuming anorganization, who is already into apparel manufacturing andselling them through retail outlet and company owned storesalso, may want to adopt mass customization by putting dedicatedresources. In the initial years of operation the prime purposeof company should be to achieve consumer satisfaction ratherthan profit realization because once decent level of awarenessamong customers regarding this initiative is achieved, therewill be rapid pace on the path of breakeven and then profitrealization.

For mass customization, one of the most common assumption isthat customer is well educated with right mix of creativity andclarity. The clarity in the product conceptualization isrequired to make his / her style in tune with the creativity. Ina traditional buying, consumers perceive the product; they canfeel it, touch it before they make buying decision. On the otherhand, success of mass customized product is up to the rightjudgment of an individual who can visualize the end productcorrectly. So when we look at the challenges in the masscustomization space, apart from business processes realignment,technological upgradation across the value chain, organizationalrestructuring and business partner’s synergies, consumer’sknowledge can also be one of the crucial challenges.

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Direct Challenges: In the direct challenges, we can again segmentthem into technological front, restructuring supply chain andpartial or full conversion from traditional production system toflexible manufacturing system.The future of mass customization seems to be in upfront positionand this is possible only because of technology. There areplenty of techniques and tools coming, where not only costingand quality is taken care of but also short lived timelines arealso followed during processing of these activities during“Concept to Customer (CTC)” journey. The body scanning, digitalprinting, single ply cutting, CAD systems, CN (computernumerical control) enabled sewing machines, POS (point of sales)data analysis are few of the examples but there are somechallenges also associated with these technologies.

a) Body scanning: Body scanning brings the output of the XYZcoordinates of a physical body, so it must be modified to makeits use more practical in aspects of the application of appareldesign and pattern.

b) Single-ply cutting: In mass customization, manufacturers cutone garment exactly according to consumer preferences. Theproblem is that this single-ply cutting is highly expensive thangeneral cutting systems, and it must be improved in order toaccommodate automatic continuous cutting for mass customization.

c) CAD system: Despite the AAMA’s (American ApparelManufacturers Association) new CAD standards, compatibilityproblems between hardware and software systems from vendor tovendor mar the spread of mass customization through theindustry.

d) Pattern design: Because commodity patterns must be modifiedfor individual customers, the means by which the pattern isaltered is an issue of concern. In the supply chainrestructuring, the apparel companies can either go for nearshore manufacturing facility such as a North American orEuropean based apparel company can source manufacturing from

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Brazil, Mexico or South America. Another direct challenge duringadoption of mass customization is that how apparel industry caneffectively use its existing manufacturing facilities andproduct development structures. Flexible manufacturing systemsare required in mass customization environments; at the sametime, these advanced manufacturing systems have been in demandto achieve a better mass production environment.

Indirect Challenges: Among the soft challenges, one of thecritical tasks is organizational structure realignment. Withadvanced manufacturing technology, mass customization requires adifferent organizational structure, rather than the normativebureaucratic structure, for mass production. For more highlycustomized products, the industry must consider thatmanufacturing modules must be flexible and diverse; therefore,the various capabilities of employees contributing to thissystem must be recognized and utilized to the fullest extentpossible. Another implicit challenge here would be to understand the nerveof the customer. With right insights about customer preferences,the challenge of offering the best options in terms of design,style can be overcome. In line with this, product innovation atthe manufacturing level would further refine the offers, aretailer can make to consumers. This is supported bycollaboration happening among retailer, apparel branding andmanufacturer since last one decade to better understandcustomer’s tastes preferences and anthropometric data analysis.

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CASE STUDY OF LEVI’S MASS CUSTOMIZATION PROCESS

Levi's first mass-customization program, Personal Pair (now in its second iteration and called Original Spin) was hatched in 1994 in Hong Kong. Sung Park, a former IBM software developer onvacation there, was unexpectedly called to a business meeting. He needed a suit in a hurry, so he paid a tailor to make it in aday. Park was so pleased with the results, he was inspired to develop a system that could design a garment from personal data entered through a point-of-sale terminal, generate instructions to cut and sew it, and then track the item through shipment to the customer.

The Original Spin mass-customization process is built around acomputer-aided design (CAD) system linked with marketing andlogistics databases. A customer at a kiosk, with the help of asalesperson, picks from a menu of style options depicted withgraphics on the screen. The options are as follows: First,there's the type of jean — classic, low-cut, or relaxed. Thenthere's color, for example, authentic stonewashed, light indigo,black, or putty. Then comes the leg opening — tapered, straight,boot cut, flare or wide — and finally the fly, either zip orbutton. Three body measurements (hip, waist, and inseam) arepunched into the computer, along with other personal options.The customer could choose to name the jeans, for instance.

Based on these measures, the consumer tries on one of thesamples in the store, and tells a salesperson how it feels. Thenthe salesperson adjusts the order to just the right relaxed-fitor slim-cut jean the consumer wants. This sample system iscritical to the mass-customizing process. Each pair suggestedfor a consumer is based on a prototype that as closely aspossible matches a person's dimensions, and the look and feelthey want from their jeans.

The order is sent via the internet to a server at Levi's factoryin Johnson City, Tennessee. There, a CAD machine reads the

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customer's choices as an algorithm that directs the computer tocut separate pattern pieces out of denim using automatedcutting. There are upwards of 12,000 possible patterncombinations that the computer can make. Then, Levi's workersmanually sew the pants together. A bar-coded label with anindividual customer number — as well as the date and time to themillisecond that the jeans were made — is heat-sealed onto theinside pocket to identify and track them as they're shipped toeither the customer's home or the store where they were bought.

The whole process, from kiosk to delivery, takes two to threeweeks. The jeans cost $55, or about 35 percent more than atraditional pair of Levi's. With their measurements andpreferences in Levi's database, customers can order additionalpairs of jeans, and if they want to, they can change attributeslike leg opening or color by calling a Levi's store.

Levi's has invested in proprietary software development, whichreinforces the notion that packaged applications typically onlygive a customer generic, undifferentiated capabilities. Tocreate market differentiation and innovation still requirescustom development or innovative solutions from smaller vendors.

Its mass-customization experiment helped Levi's discoversomething that many companies still overlook: When pricestumble, price wars aren't the only option. In creating OriginalSpin, Levi Strauss management moved boldly just as revenue andmargins were falling precipitously, when many firms become moreconservative. Levi's leaders decided a tough time was actuallythe best time to make a sharp break with the past. Plus,hesitating would only have dragged the company deeper into aprice war it didn't want to be in and couldn't win.

With mass customization Levi's has proved it can charge more forjeans — and at the same time build customer loyalty among time-starved and service-hungry consumers. But that has required manychanges. One major philosophical change has been a priorityshift from solely keeping retail customers stocked and happy toa nearly tunnel-vision focus on the end-consumer, using the

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customization process to gather trend information and buildrelationships with individuals.

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