List of First Ascents

THE COAST SOUTH FROM ABERDEEN

Pre-1910 The Long Slough Pinnacle H.G.Drummond and partyPre-1910 Through Route, Milestone Inlet H.G.Drummond

“anyone who goes down and up without losing any buttons may consider himself lucky” C.C.J. Vol. XV No 84 (1945)

Pre-1912 The Slant J.McCossPre-1912 Creased Slab J.McCossPre-1912 Mask J.McCossPre-1912 Waterpipe Chimney Cairngorm Club Party (including

J.McCoss?)Pre-1912 left hand trap dyke, Blowup Nose Cairngorm Club Party (including

J.McCoss?)Pre-1933 Milestone Direct Parker, H.G.Drummond and party

(G.T.R Watt, R.P.Yunnie. D.M.Carle according to History section)

Pre-1933 Slab Top Chimney J.McCoss1932 19 March Long Step Crack R.P.Yunnie

(G.T.R Watt, R.P.Yunnie. D.M.Carle according to History section)

1934 Southern Diagonal Traverse W.N.Aitken (top rope)1944 Direct Route (Aitken's Pinnacle) W.T.Hendry1944pre-1945 in guide text

The Sickle W.T.Hendry

1944 St Andrew's Crack W.T.HendryPre-1945 Aitken’s Pinnacle – Northern Sea-

Level Traverse W.T.Hendry, G.Lumsden, Dr CruickshankRequires the helpful co-operation of acalm sea and rough barnacles

Pre-1945 Aitken’s Pinnacle – Southern Sea-Level Traverse

Pre-1945 Rainbow WallPre-1945 Puffin's Perch W.T.HendryPre-1945 Bird’s Nest Crack J.McCossPre-1945 Scylla W.T.HendryPre-1945 Charybdis1945 Parallel Cracks D.A.Thomas (solo)1945 Overhang Crack J.McCoss

“This climb should be thoroughly investigated with a rope from above before an attempt is made to lead it.” C.C.J. Vol. XV No 84 (1945)

pre-19481950 in guide text

Rainbow Crack

1948 The Great Cave Route D.A.Sutherland, G.Morris, W.D.BrookerThe red ledge finish to this route has been likened to the Great Traverse on theCima Grande di Lavaredo

1948 Girdle Traverse D.A.Sutherland, W.D.Brooker1948 Seaward Start D.A.Sutherland, W.D.Brooker1948 Puffin Overhang W.D.Brooker1948 Swing Seam W.D.Brooker, D.A.Sutherland1948 Brooker's Arete W.D.Brooker, D.A.Sutherland1949 The White Seam D.A.Sutherland, W.D.Brooker

Originally led in nails1949 The Hairline W.D.Brooker, D.A.Sutherland1949 Chisel Chimney W.D.Brooker, D.A.Sutherland1950s Last Thread Traverse1950s Fall Out Chimney1950s South Wall Traverse (South Doonies

Yawn)1950s1960s in guide text

North Wall Traverse (South Doonies Yawn)

1950s Deceptive Traverse “It was first traversed when a high tide was running and the pioneers, not realising there was only five feet of foaming sea beneath them, found it very exciting”

1950s Zombie1950s Zeta1950s Humpback Girdle1950s Hanging Block Climb1950s Seaward Chimney1950s Quartz Corner1950s Vengeance1950s The Shute1950s Windy Ledge1950s Astra1950s Black Rock Chimney1950s Severe at back of inlet, Black Rock

Gulch1950s Very Difficult at back of inlet, Black

Rock Gulch1950s Red Slab routes, Black Rock Gulch1950s The Purple Way1950s The Plumbline1950s Bass Buttress1950s Willie's Way1950s Labyrinth Nose1950s The Pobble1950s Gangplank1950s The Rack1950s Tiger's Terror Originally graded Very Difficult1950s North-East Edge1950s South-East Diedre1950s Rumbledown Wall1950s Black Corner1950s Nigg Wall1950s Nog Crack1950s The Twin Overhangs1950s Puffin Wall1950s Jimmy’s Crack1950s Jade Buttress Buttress named after the initials of the

four climbers who made the first ascent. 1950s Jade Traverse1950s Tension Crack1950s Limpet Crack1950s The Rat Trap1950s The Catwalk1950s The Styx1950s Cerberus1950s Hades “Wings and rubber suckers helpful”1950s Broken Buttress1950s Butterfly Wall (1 peg)1950s Grey Groove (2 pegs)1950s Optimist’s Route1950s Painted Wall1950s The Main Girdle (Puck’s Route) The hardest route at South Cove in the

50s1950 North Descent W.D.Brooker1950 Rock Bottom Traverse W.D.Brooker1950 Brooker’s Original Route W.D.Brooker

Originally called Sunday Suits Climb1950 Rose Rib D.A.Sutherland, W.D.Brooker1954 Insect Wall T.W.Patey, M.Taylor

1954 Nicol’s Eliminate A.G.Nicol“The test piece of South Cove. The Godfather of this route estimated the standard at ‘Difficult’” – 1st Edition of Guide

1957 Red Grooves W.D.Brooker, R.W.P.Barclay1958 Back Drop J.L.T.Hay1958 Acid Drop J.L.T.Hay1958 Pandrop J.L.T.Hay1958 Eve’s Drop J.L.T.Hay1958 Drop Not J.L.T.Hay1958 The Mincer T.W.Patey, M.Smith

“An inch by inch struggle first under a chokestone and then by back and knee and jamming to the top”

1958 Stiletto J.L.T.Hay1958 Capitol Wall J.L.T.Hay

First Edition of Guide published 19601960s Right-Hand Corner1960s Central Arete1960s Central Groove1960s Pike Wall1960s Shield1960s Trango (aid) Named after reference in the first edition

of the guide to the overhangs offering good practice for climbing the Trango Tower or the West Face of the Dru

1960s Yellow Edge1960s Yellow Diedre1960s The Bean D.Pyper1961 Mo's Traverse D.Mercer19651960s in guide text

North-West Corner J.Light

1965 North Facing Wall J.Light1965 North Wall Traverse (North Doonies

Yawn)J.Light

19651999 in guide text

Jerry’s Ramp J.LightClimbed in reverse on first ascent of North Wall Traverse

1965 Jerry Light's Traverse J.Light1966 Medusa A.Fyffe1966 Pink Slab Traverse A.Fyffe1967 North Face of Long Slough Pinnacle G.S.Strange, R.Simpson1967 The Exit Crack N.D.Keir, B.S.Findlay1967 Black Chimney N.D.Keir, B.S.Findlay1967 Corbett’s Crack D.Duncan, A.Corbett1967 Mac’s Route D.Duncan, W.Mackie1968 Boundary Corners N.D.Keir, B.S.Findlay1969 August Mythical Wall M.Rennie

Mythical Wall had been top-roped and climbed on aid in the 1950s. Rennie led it with two pitons only for protection after top-ropingSecond Edition of Guide published 1969

1969 26 October Girdle Traverse (The Mincer Cliff) B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1969 26 October Central Crack B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1969 Johnny’s Corner J.Ingram1969 The Spigolo R.Maguire, D.Innes

An early attempt by T.W.Patey, J.M.Taylor, W.D.Brooker in 1952 ended when part of an overhang crumbled awayunder the leader, leaving him hanging by his hands. As soon as a piton could be firmly inserted, the last man climbed all

the way round and put down a rope from the top for the last 80 feet

1969 Day Tripper J.Ingram, H.Smith1969 Insect Groove H.Smith, D.Stuartearly 1970s

Cadaver B.Lawrie

1970s1960s in guide text

Turnpike

1970s1960s in guide text

Quartz Deviant N.D.Keir

1970s1960s in guide text

Left Face

1970s1960s in guide text

Humpback Crack

1970s1960s in guide text

The Black Ramp

1970s Gold Cracks1970s Vasectomy (Top roped. First lead unknown)1970s Ecky’s Crack Named after discovery of ‘Ecky’

scratched in the rock1970 24 May Spinnaker G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay19701960s in guide text

The Go Between M.Rennie

1970 Petite Diedre A.Frost1971 23 October Lobotomy M.Freeman, G.S.Strange1971 23 October La Rainure G.S.Strange, M.Freeman1971 HVS overhang at Black Rock Gulch D.Innes1971 The Bifurcator D.Innes, R.Maguire1971 The Slide D.Innes, R.Maguire1971 Aardvark D.Innes, R.Maguire1971 Mong D.Innes, R.Maguire1971 Trunk1971 Birthday Treat D.Innes, R.Maguire1972 Talisker M.Ross, R.Maguire19721960s in the guidetext

Whisky Traverse

1972 Twisted Crack D.Innes1972 Sneak D.Innes, R.Maguire1972 Mellow Yellow1972 Akimbo Crack D.Dinwoodie, A.N.Other1972 Quartz Bicycle J.Mothersele, D.Riley1972 The Wandering of the One-Toed

WizardJ.Mothersele, D.Riley

1972 Girdle Traverse (Bruin Cove) D.Innes, D.Dinwoodie1972 The Green Manalishi I.Robb, J.Ingram, J.Bower1972 Rotwand D.Dinwoodie, D.Innes (1 peg rest)

FFA A.Barley (1976)1973 3 March The Waterline D.Dinwoodie (solo)1973 3 March The Waterfront D.Dinwoodie (solo) (done before?)1973 Free Fall D.Wright, N.D.Keir (direct)

D.Dinwoodie, J.Wyness (indirect)1973 Eastern Girdle D.Innes, D.Dinwoodie1973 Grand Diedre D.Dinwoodie, D.Innes

1974 Cobra N.D.Keir, A.Lawson1974 Central Corner A.Lawson1974 Hanging Slab M.Milner (solo)1974 Wallace (not the original name) G.S.Strange, N.D.Keir (solo)1974 Grommitt (not the original name) G.S.Strange, N.D.Keir (solo)1974 Tiddles (not the original name) G.S.Strange, N.D.Keir (solo)1974 Absolutely Barking (not the original

name)G.S.Strange, N.D.Keir (solo)

1974 Jaunt N.D.Keir1974 The Fartin' Freckle N.D.Keir, M.Freeman1974 Winter Boot Wall N.D.Keir, M.Freeman1974 The Mitre D.Wright, S.Bateson1974 The Hedonist D.Wright, S.Bateson1975 29 April The Friability Drive R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange1975 11 May red band of rock at Black Cove R.A.Smith, N.D.Keir, G.S.Strange1975 20 May Spinnaker Direct R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange1975 25 June Frolic G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1975 28 September El Dorado G.S.Strange, G.Muhlemann1975 First Overhang R.A.Smith1975 Second Overhang R.A.Smith (?)1975 The Spinechiller B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1975 Old Tawny Traverse1975 Ale and Farewell G.Muhlemann, A.N.Other

The second on the rope was a visiting Australian climber. Drongo was climbed on the same day.

19751982 in guide text

Drongo G.Muhlemann, A.N.Other

1975 Sonata Rib D.Innes1975 Insect Flake D.Innes1975 The Blue Baboon J.Mothersele1975 Antic1975 Vicious Love R.A.Smith1975 Spider R.A.Smith, D.Boyne1975 Strainer R.A.Smith, D.Boyne1975 The Great Green Thing R.A.Smith, D.Boyne1975 North Chimney (Back Door Wall) G.Stephen1976 28 June Hairy Rib R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange1976 10 August Nightrake A.Barley, G.S.Strange1976 1 September Tyke A.Barley, G.S.Strange1976 Spider's Walk D.Dinwoodie, A.McIvor, B.Lawrie1976 Seawall R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1976 Sidewinder R.A.Smith1976 Snoopy R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1976 The Red Baron R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1977 12 June The Snirgler G.Muhlemann, R.J.Archbold1977 The Vicious Circle D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith1977 Phallus Chimney R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange1977 Bizarre Buttress1977 The Groan D.Dinwoodie1977 The Great Escape A.Robertson1977 Tigger D.Dinwoodie1977 Cheetah A.Robertson1977 Acapulco A.Barley

Third Edition of the Guide published April 1978

1978 8 May Scrutiniser G.S.Strange, D.Renshaw1978 22 August Quartzite Crack D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1978 23 August Right Face G.S.Strange, D.Dinwoodie1978 23 August The Brush-off D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1978 5 September Erseless Arete B.Lawrie, G.S.Strange1978 5 September The Notch G.S.Strange, B.Lawrie1978 5 September Boulder Gully B.Lawrie, G.S.Strange1978 5 September The Niche B.Lawrie, G.S.Strange1978 Zombie Right-Hand B.Lawrie

1978 Leaning Meanie D.Dinwoodie, A.Nisbet1978 Vibrator D.Renshaw, B.Lawrie1978 The Stick-Up D.Dinwoodie, R.McGregor1978 Bootlace Crack B.Lawrie1978 The Purple Emperor B.Lawrie, A.Robertson1978 Recess Route1978 Twisted Nerve D.Dinwoodie, A.Robertson1978 Electric Blue D.Renshaw, A.McIvor1978 Omnivore J.Mothersele1978 Green Vomit D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1978 Depth Charge P.Littlejohn (solo)1978 Walrus J.Mothersele1978 Time Warp D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith1978 Hexlax D.Nichols, G.Muhlemannpost-19781970s in guide text

Android

1979 1 September South Arete G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1979 1 September South Groove D.Dinwoodie1979 19 October Uppercut B.Lawrie, G.S.Strange1979 19 October One Below the Belt B.Lawrie, G.S.Strange1979 Red Death R.A.Smith1979 Nooky Wall B.Lawrie, R.A.Smith1979 Sunfun1979 Leg-Up B.Sprunt1979 Lob-Off A.Nisbet1979 The Eliminator B.Sprunt, A.Nisbet1979 Green Rosetta B.Sprunt1979 Mind Games R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie1979 Thieves Route R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie1979 Pioneer Grit B.Lawrie(?)1979 Mao B.Lawrie1979 Blind Faith B.Lawrie1979 Earnsheugh Ridge R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1979 Death Cap R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1979 Ugly Bugs’ Ball D.Dinwoodie, M.Ross1979 Rattus Norvegicus D.Dinwoodie, M.Ross1979 Right Jab R.A.Smith1979 Lean Meat P.Littlejohn1980 1 June Coup de Grace D.Nichols, G.S.Strange1980 1 June Bantam Wall G.S.Strange, D.Nichols1980 8 June South Paw G.S.Strange, R.A.Smith1980 8 June Blockbuster R.A.Smith, G.S.Strange1980 8 June Left Jab G.S.Strange, R.A.Smith1980 10 June Kinhaken D.Nichols, G.S.Strange1980 10 June Shuffle G.S.Strange, D.Nichols1980 10 June The Slug D.Nichols, G.S.Strange1980 Trog B.Sprunt, C.McLeod1980 Over the Top R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie1980 Pickpocket B.Lawrie1980 Yellow Peril B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1980 Batty Bat D.Wright, R.McGregor1980 Hissing Sid D.Wright, R.McGregor1980 The Lost World D.Dinwoodie, J.Wyness1980 Mysterious Journey D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith, J.Wyness1980 Pterodactyl R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1980 Cloisters A.Williams, D.Dinwoodie1980 Cloisters Direct Start A.Williams, D.Dinwoodie

(apparently, this is the way of the original ascent)

1980 Thunderbolt Crack D.Dinwoodie, A.McIvor1980 Boulders Route R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie1980 The Thrapple G.S.Strange, D.Nichols (solo)1980 Sea Cat R.A.Smith1980 The Great Escape, Direct Start B.Sprunt

1980 The Wooden Horse B.Sprunt1981 30 June Black Groove D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1981 30 June Pedestal Corner D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1981 4 July Superbrat D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1981 10 July Sprunt’s Route B.Sprunt, A.Mason1981 25 July Gable End G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1981 25 July Diagonal R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange1981 25 July The Malt Ramp G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1981 4 August Fiskavaig G.S.Strange, C.McLeod, A.N.Other1981 13 August Rest in Pieces N.Morrison, S.Kennedy1981 Cormorant B.Lawrie (solo)1981 All Quiet B.Lawrie (solo?)1981 Waves B.Lawrie (solo)1981 The Somme B.Lawrie (solo)1981 Big Daddy B.Lawrie (solo)1981 Fretted Socket B.Lawrie (solo)1981 Cod Eyes B.Lawrie (solo)1981 Untroubled Blue B.Lawrie (solo)1981 Diversion B.Lawrie (solo)1981 Cruise B.Lawrie (solo)1981 Damp Start B.Lawrie (solo)1981 Heir Apparent N.Morrison, I.Duckworth, P.Bilsborough,

A.Kay1981 Internal Haemorrhage B.Lawrie, E.Todd1981 Brain Death B.Lawrie, E.Todd1981 Black Velvet B.Sprunt1981 Jester B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1981 Blue Dot B.Sprunt1981 Firebird D.Dinwoodie, J.Wyness1981 Red Face D.Dinwoodie, J.Wyness1981 Lucky Jim J.Wyness, D.Dinwoodie1981 Dancin' Fool K.Murphy1981 Plum Jam1981 Grey Groove, Variation Finish N.Morrison, S.Kennedy, A.Green1981 Fritillary A.Nisbet, S.Kennedy1981 Cirrhosis D.Dinwoodie, J.Wyness1981 Bongo Fury K.Murphy, J.Cunningham1981 Red Wall B.Sprunt1981 Beryl the Peryl K.Murphy1981 The Pretender N.Morrison1981 Pipeyard Blues R.Robb1981 Robb’s Revenge R.Robb1981 Oaf1981 Gristwood’s Gutties1981 Schoolboy Alcoholic J.Cunningham1981 Glaswegian Snotter J.Cunningham1981 Johnnie’s Dangler J.Cunningham (solo)1981 Cloak1981 Visor1981 Scratch1981 Stratosfear D.Dinwoodie, J.Wyness1981 Ghastly Crack D.Dinwoodie, K.Murphy1981 Spike Chimney1981 The Glider1981 Cath’s Catharsis D.Dinwoodie, C.Harper1981 Monkey B.Sprunt1981 Animal B.Sprunt1981 Gentleman Jim B.Sprunt, J.Unwin1981 Banana Crack D.Dinwoodie, J.Wyness1981 Zinjanthropus K.Murphy1981 Java Man K.Murphy1981 Funky Gibbon K.Murphy1981 Splashaway1981 Quick Lay1981 Black Napkins K.Murphy, D.Dinwoodie, F.Templeton1981 The Grand Wazoo1981 The Greener

1981 The Flyover D.Dinwoodie1981 Coco the Clown B.Sprunt1981 Little Strawberry went into the Sea A.Kay1981 Nighthawk B.Lawrie1981 The Flatulent Alien K.Murphy, D.Dinwoodie1981 Quick Draw McGraw D.Dinwoodie1981 Flatface Original K.Murphy1981 Flatface Direct K.Murphy1981 Mega Direct K.Murphy1981 Cosmic Codpiece K.Murphy1981 Pseudo Corner K.Murphy1981 Skulking Corner K.Murphy1981 The Pan-Galactic Mealie Pudding K.Murphy, D.Dinwoodie1981 East Wind N.Morrison, A.Nisbet1981 Cats Whisker (may have been done

by G.S.Strange, R.A.Smith 8/6/80)N.Morrison, A.Nisbet

1981 Japs Eye Chimney F.Templeton, K.Murphy1981 Cold Turkey K.Murphy, D.Dinwoodie, F.Templeton1981 Eric the Maladjusted Mollusc1981 Slug Arete1981 Filler In1981 Punchline D.Dinwoodie1981 Right Hook D.Dinwoodie1981 Left Hook1981 The Electric Chair D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1981 Nob Goblin D.Dinwoodie, J.Wyness1981 Exit Stage Right B.Sprunt1981 Flying Circus J.Hosie1982 10 January left icefall, Bruin Cove R.A.Smith, G.S.Strange1982 10 January right icefall, Bruin Cove G.S.Strange, R.A.Smith1982 25 April Yawn Pillar G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1982 5 May Yahoochie B.Sprunt1982 28 July Grimble G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold, H.Towler1982 17 August Conger G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1982 21 August prow at Red Cliff G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1982 28 August Man-o'-War G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1982 28 August Scyphozoa G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1982 Tales of the Unexpected D.Lawrence, A.Nisbet1982 Drongo, Direct Start 1982 Dingaroo D.Dinwoodie, C.Murray1982 Exploding Laxative B.Lawrie, E.Todd1982 Prehistoric Monster R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1982 Hover Fly1982 Arachnid D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross, J.Cunningham1982 Fauntleroy’s Fault J.Cunningham, D.Dinwoodie1982 Chicken Licken D.Dinwoodie, J.Cunningham1982 Fertiliser D.Dinwoodie, K.Murphy1982 Wrat Wraith J.Cunningham, D.Dinwoodie1982 Cobra Corner D.Dinwoodie, A.Paul1982 Stone Lizard D.Dinwoodie, J.Cunningham1982 The Flingledoofer D.Dinwoodie, J.Cunningham1982 The Freaker’s Ball J.Cunningham, D.Dinwoodie1982 Grave Doubts D.Dinwoodie, C.Jamieson1982 Gronk D.Dinwoodie, C.Jamieson1982 Grazoopkins K.Murphy1982 Bilious Chokes C.Murray1982 Roof Roof W.Todd1982 The Paranormal D.Dinwoodie, W.Todd1982 Plod’s Playpiece A.Ross, D.Dinwoodie, J.Cunningham

(solo)1982 Nyaff’s Overhang J.Cunningham, A.Ross (solo)1982 Upside Downies B.Lawrie1982 Cold Turkey, Direct Start1982 Greedy Pig D.Dinwoodie, C.MacLean1982 Jack Sprat D.Dinwoodie1982 Walter’s Way1982 Clockwork Rat D.Dinwoodie

1982 Transvestite Bat D.Dinwoodie, A.Paul1982 Wet Pussy D.Dinwoodie, A.Paul1982 Pooh’s Arete I.Duckworth, P.Bilsborough1982 Acapulco, Left Hand Start I.Duckworth1982 Bran Flake K.Murphy, P.Devlin1982 Dev’s Dilemma K.Murphy, P.Devlin1982 The Dirty Arch Deacon K.Murphy1982 Arc de Triomphe1982 Lucy1982 Hang Fire K.Murphy1982 A Walk on the Wild Side1983 27 March Lazy Daze C.MacLean, D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1983 3 July The Joker R.A.Smith, G.S.Strange1983 Rubbish B.Davison1983 Dreadlock Holiday B.Davison1983 Bob's Overhang R.A.Smith1983 Mad Dogs and Englishmen

Direct start (6b) by A.Ross, 1987B.Davison, A.Nisbet, D.Lawrence

1983 Legover G.Livingston1983 Golden Shot B.Davison, N.Morrison1983 American Graffiti R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie1983 Davy Jones' Locker G.Livingston1983 Leaping Lawyer B.Davison1983 Exploding Laxative, Direct Finish R.A.Smith1983 Space Rats D.Dinwoodie, C.MacLean (some aid)

Top pitch freed by C.MacLean (1984)FFA B.Lawrie, W.Moir (1986)

1983 The Shape of Things to Come B.Davison (unseconded)1983 Bats’ Belfry D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross(?), C.MacLean(?)1983 Cloisters Right-Hand D.Dinwoodie, C.MacLean1983 Bugs’ Boogie D.Dinwoodie, C.MacLean1983 Buggeroo C.MacLean, D.Dinwoodie1983 Frontier Rib1983 The Pink Band1983 Bovver Fly A.Ross, C.Ord, D.Dinwoodie1983 Colander Wall A.Ross, G.McWalter1983 Shawangunks Wall D.Dinwoodie1983 Spiffing B.Davison, N.Morrison1983 Cream Doughnut M.Hamilton1983 White Serviette M.Hamilton1983 Powerfinger B.Davison, N.Morrison1983 Strain Don’t Train N.Morrison, B.Davison1983 The Sandbagger D.Lawrence, N.Morrison1983 Slow Motion N.Morrison, D.Lawrence1983 Usurper B.Davison1983 El-D C.MacLean1983 Wish You Were Here B.Davison, N.Morrison1983 The Hunchback1983 Z Bend1983 The Secret Policeman’s Other Ball1983 Wasp Slab A.Ross (solo)1983 The Secret Policeman’s Ball A.Ross (solo)1983 The Vomiting Parrot A.Ross, C.MacLean1983 Soft Touch C.MacLean, A.Ross1983 Billy Liar A.Ross, C.MacLean

Fourth Edition of the Guide published early 1984

1984 15 August Sunfair R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange, G.Muhlemann

1984 Eunach Yummick G Livingston1984 Bumless Wall D.Dinwoodie1984 Frog Face D.Dinwoodie1984 Nighthawk Direct D.Dinwoodie1984 The X-Crack D.Dinwoodie (yo-yoed)1984 Execrater D.Dinwoodie1984 Downies Syndrome D.Dinwoodie1984 The Black Art D.Dinwoodie

1984 Nervous Impulse1984 Route Minor1984 Nautilus1985 29 May Grimace G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1985 3 July Dancin' Fool Direct B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1985 17 July Winkle-Picker G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1985 17 July Running Wild D.Dinwoodie 1985 July? Searcher D.Dinwoodie1985 21 August Has Been G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1985 10 September Expecting to Fly G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1985 October Red Planet D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1985 Double Dyno or Die G.Livingston, N.Sharpe1985 Bernie N.Morrison (solo)1985 The Bolt N.Morrison (solo)1985 A Taste for Treason C.Murray, E.McArthur1985 Gorgon M.Forsyth, S.Fraser1985 Death Rattle Roofs D.Dinwoodie, D.Hawthorn1985 Thugosaurus D.Dinwoodie, C.Jamieson1985 Cthulu D.Dinwoodie, D.Hawthorn1985 Necromancer D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1985 The Prison D.Dinwoodie1985 Hired Gun D.Hawthorn, A.Ross1985 Daka Daka Daka C.Ord1985 Van Riftoften A.Ross, G.Reilly1986 2 March Kay Hole Fall B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange

-6C in March!1986 4 May The Freakers’ Other Ball K.Murphy, D.Dinwoodie1986 4 May Slubberdegullion K.Murphy, D.Dinwoodie1986 6 May Weird Sister D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1986 6 May Necromancer, Direct Finish D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1986 13 May The Solar Sausage Supper D.Hawthorn, K.Murphy1986 13 May Celestial Scampi D.Hawthorn, K.Murphy1986 13 May Interstellar Onion Bradie K.Murphy, D.Hawthorn1986 13 May The Crack of Dome K.Murphy, E.Todd, D.Hawthorn1986 24 May Green Perversion D.Dinwoodie, C.Jamieson1986 24 May Boglyphilia D.Dinwoodie, C.Jamieson1986 16 July Procrastination D.Dinwoodie, E.Todd (one yo-yo)

(formerly aided by H.Towler, D.Wallace)1986 July? Cracks in Reality D.Dinwoodie, E.Todd1986 3 September Digital Torquer G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1986 28 September Streetwise G.S.Strange, M.Freeman1986 26 October Stone Roses W.Moir (solo)1986 Grim Spectre D.Dinwoodie, E.Todd1986 Thugosaurus Direct D.Dinwoodie, J.Hall1986 Execrater Left Hand Start1986 Auto de Fe B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1986 Skeletor1986 Freshers Groove (groove left of

Bizarre Buttress)S.Cardwell, N.Brodie

c. 1986 Petrified Forest D.Dinwoodie, F.Templeton1987 February Gateaux of Delirium D.Dinwoodie1987 April Johnny B Good D.Dinwoodie1987 May Bottom Boys S.Cardwell, N.Brodie (top-roped first)1987 July Howler Monkey D.Dinwoodie1987 July Smegmatoid D.Dinwoodie1987 July Scumbag D.Dinwoodie1987 July Scab and Matter Custard D.Dinwoodie1987 July Snot and Bogey Pie D.Dinwoodie1987 2 August The Red Knife D.Dinwoodie, J.Hall1987 30 August Raging Bull B.Lawrie, G.S.Strange1987 7 September The Pugilist R.Duncan, B.Lawrie (yo-yoed)1987 19 September Italian Stallion W.Moir, B.Lawrie1987 24 September The Black Sleep D.Dinwoodie, C.Forrest (1 yo-yo)1987 29 September Sair Fecht D.Dinwoodie, C.Forrest1987 29 September Black Hope D.Dinwoodie1987 September The Boxer N.Morrison, B.Lawrie1987 September Cestus B.Lawrie, M.Forsyth

1987 September Fuzzy Stone M.Forsyth, M.Atkins1987 September unnamed M.Atkins, M.Forsyth1987 3 October The Jobbie Stabbers Finish P.Clarkson1987 14 October Yerteezoot D.Dinwoodie1987 Shrinking Baa’s A.Ross (solo)1987 Downside Upwindies A.Ross (1 yo-yo)1987 Upside Downwindies A.Ross (yo-yoed)1988 23 May Manassa Mauler W.Moir1988 22 June Painted Groove G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1988 22 June Aquarius G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1988 18 September Red Planet, The Patrick Moore Finish W.Moir, N.Ritchie1988 The Deceptive Old Man M.Sutherland, A.Cunningham1988 Kentucky Fried Chicken A.Ross (solo)1988 Armed Conflict A.Ross, M.Sutherland1988 The Grail C.Stewart, P.Stewart, A.Ross1988 Black Mass A.Ross (solo)1988 Pinch of Salt A.Ross1988 Rock Lobster A.Ross (solo)1988 Incontinence Crack A.Ross (solo)1988 Nappy Rash A.Ross (solo)1988 Clean Round the Bend A.Ross (solo)1988 Domestos A.Ross, P.Stewart, I.Davidson1988 Weakling’s Wall A.Ross, P.Stewart, I.Davidson1988 Davidson’s Delight A.Ross, I.Davidson, P.Stewart1989 8 February Rusty Halo W.Moir, S.Lock1989 8 February Jigsaw Slab (done before?) W.Moir (solo)1989 18 April Wavy Wall (Craig Stirling, not in

current guide)T.Crook, S.Nash

1989 28 April Onassis W.Moir, S.Lock1989 28 April Red Army Blues W.Moir1989 7 May Cracked Actor W.Moir, M.Francis, J.Lines1989 19 May Glasnost W.Moir (formerly aided as Band Aid by

D.Wright, N.D.Keir)1989 19 May Perestroika W.Moir1989 3 June Demokratizatsiya W.Moir, C.Stewart1989 12 July Muhammed Wira Bin Jamel W.Moir, B.Lawrie (on sight)1989 12 August The Under Toad M.Forsyth, D.Gillan1989 12 August I.G.Y. D.Gillan, M.Forsyth1989 2 September A Basket of Rogues M.Forsyth, D.Gillan1989 2 September Pansy Potter D.Gillan, M.Forsyth1989 6 September Where Seagulls Dare K.Milne, P.Allen1989 9 September Aqualung W.Moir, N.Morrison, J.Wilson, K.Maciver1989 16 September Jaded Ledge Lizard W.Moir, N.Morrison, K.Maciver1989 17 September The Wideboys N.Morrison, W.Moir1989 17 September The Waterboys W.Moir, N.Morrison1989 24 September Gallipoli W.Moir, N.Morrison (pre-cleaned)1989 28 September Woomera W.Moir, R.Leaves1989 September Submarine Traverse (not in current

guide) Dan?

1989 September Coning Tower Direct (not in current guide)

Dan?

1989 4 November north facing wall of Spigolo (not in current guide)

Dan and Rod?

1990s Rock Lobster, variation1990 10 March First Strike (Craig Stirling, not in

current guide)S.Lock, T.McGovern

1990 10 March God’s Retribution (Craig Stirling, not in current guide)

S.Lock, T.McGovern

1990 11 March Teetering on the Brink of Madness W.Moir, P.Allen (1 yo-yo)1990 23 April Pump Junkie W.Moir, P.Allen1990 16 June Ricketyploon M.Forsyth, T.Farrington (done before?)1990 June Akimbo Crack, Limbo Dancer Finish D.Atkinson, P.Allen1990 10 August Trapped N.Morrison, B.Lawrie, N.Ritchie1990 11 August Chunky’s Edge N.Morrison, B.Lawrie, N.Ritchie,

K.Maciver1990 11 August Of Mice and Men K.Maciver, N.Morrison1990 11 August Jihad N.Ritchie, B.Lawrie, N.Morrison

1990 11 August Exiled Emir N.Ritchie, B.Lawrie, K.Maciver1990 October Whale Nation W.Moir, P.Allen (both led)1990 October MacSpace Cadet C.MacLean1990 October Bad Medicine Waltz P.Allen, J.Wilson1990 October The Caucasian Chalk Circle W.Moir, P.Allen1990 October Exasperation W.Moir, C.MacLean, P.Allen (all led)1990 October Rock Torbet W.Moir, A.Torbet1990 October Nanaimo W.Moir, C.MacLean, P.Allen (all led)1990 October Flipper W.Moir, G.Elrick, A.Torbet1990 October The Granite Kipper W.Moir, G.Elrick, A.Torbet1990 October Fisherman’s Blues W.Moir (solo)1990 October Skateraw Road W.Moir, P.Allen1990 Grimly Fiendish G.Farquhar1991 April Tyrannosaurus Wrecks W.Moir, J.Lines (on sight)1991 3 April Bunstane Wall D.Atkinson, P.Harrington1991 22 April The Belles, The Belles W.Moir1991 22 April Neat and Cool J.Lines, W.Moir (both led)1991 24 April Islander J.Lines, W.Moir1991 24 April The MacAllan Finish W.Moir, J.Lines1991 May Desederio W.Moir, N.Ritchie1991 8 May The Immaculate Collection W.Moir, B.Lawrie1991 9 May Suicide Blonde W.Moir, J.Lines, P.Allen1991 20 May (Only Love can be) Stranger than

FictionW.Moir, J.Lines

1991 21 May Between the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea

J.Lines, W.Moir (on sight, alt. leads)

1991 June Look Sharp B.Gordon, J.Thompson1991 15 June Prowess W.Moir, J.Lines1991 15 June Ichthyosaurus W.Moir, J.Lines (on sight)1991 29 June The Crack B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1991 29 June Beconase G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1991 Torn Ligaments J.Lines, M.Francis1991 Left, Right and Centre1991 The Truant C.MacLean1991 The Enemy Within P.Allen, W.Moir1991 Welly Boot Crack P.Allen, W.Moir1991 Fame and Fortune Traverse1991 The Ramparts1991 Portcullis1992 5 January Lunatic Fringe W.Moir, A.D.Robertson (pre-practised)1992 25 April Butterlegs J.Lines, M.Ingham (both led)1992 29 April Threshold of Insanity J.Lines, D.Roberts1992 4 May Finger Jive J.Lines (solo)1992 14 May Red Planet, The Redshift Finish W.Moir, J.Lines (alt leads)1992 26 May Bobalouie W.Moir1992 9 June Akiane B.Homes, P.Homes1992 9 June Orkadiane Banter B.Homes, P.Homes1992 9 June Goblinoyd B.Homes, P.Homes1992 9 June Decadance B.Homes, P.Homes1992 9 June Bottler B.Homes, P.Homes1992 21 June Orbital Ejection J.Lines, M.Ingham (alt leads)1992 Serpent1992 The Prisoner N.Morrison (pre-cleaned)1992 Brains1992 Parker1992 Virgil1993 March Wild Hearted Son W.Moir, P.Allen1993 March Skills for Adolescents W.Moir, P.Allen1993 March All Stripped Down W.Moir, P.Allen1993 21 April Yassassin W.Moir, P.Allen (pre-practised)1993 28 April Panic in Detroit W.Moir1993 28 April Aladdin Sane W.Moir, G.Elrick1993 28 May Bone Machine W.Moir, P.Allen1993 28 May When the North Wind Blows W.Moir, P.Allen1993 22 June Depth Charge, Direct Start W.Moir (solo)1993 1 July The Wildboys W.Moir (solo)1993 3 July Babooshka W.Moir, P.Allen

1993 10 July Yippiekaiae W.Moir, P.Allen1993 24 July Western Girdle W.Moir (solo)1993 6 August Lonsdale Belt W.Moir, N.Morrison1993 1 September Animosity W.Moir, A.D.Robertson

Fifth Edition of the Guide published early 1994

1994 1 April Shag S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)1994 7 May Fettie Freaks W.Moir (solo)1994 9 May Rufus W.Moir (solo)1994 9 May Shady Proposition W.Moir (solo)1994 5 June Wheesht S.A.Stronach, P.Grewar1994 5 June Wall Street S.A.Stronach (solo)

Stronach finds a new crag near Portlethen and sets to work, although others had bouldered here previously

1994 5 June Ledge Route S.A.Stronach (solo)1994 5 June Face Up S.A.Stronach (solo)1994 5 June Niche to be Here S.A.Stronach (solo)1994 5 June Cold Fire S.A.Stronach (solo)1994 5 June Snakedance S.A.Stronach (solo)1994 5 June Wages of Sin S.A.Stronach (solo)1994 5 June Laybacking on a Sunday Afternoon S.A.Stronach (solo)1994 11 June Procreation W.Moir, P.Allen (alt. leads)1994 15 June Broken Promise S.A.Stronach (solo)1994 15 June Talk With Your Hands S.A.Stronach (solo after practice)1994 19 June Balder Crack K.Smith (solo after practice)1994 19 June Hotpoint K.Smith, D.Roberts (top-roped then led)1994 19 June Pincers K.Smith (solo)1994 19 June Jeux Sans Frontiers W.Moir (solo)1994 20 June True Faith S.A.Stronach, S.Lock (on sight)1994 20 June Faith Healer variation S.A.Stronach, S.Lock (on sight)1994 22 June Faithless S.A.Stronach, S.J.Stronach (belayed

only, didn’t second the route) (top-roped then led)

1994 13 July Faith Healer M.Atkins (solo on sight)1994 13 July Phreeqey S.A.Stronach, M.Atkins (on sight)1994 5 August Armistice W.Moir, N.Morrison (on sight)1994 6 August Warzone N.Morrison, P.Allen (pre-cleaned)1994 6 August Armed and Dangerous P.Allen, N.Morrison (on sight)1994 7 August Just Another Quaint Route A.D.Robertson, J.Ashdown1994 20 August Keep the Faith N.Morrison, P.Allen (on sight)1994 20 August Peel Slough traverse N.Morrison, P.Allen (solo)1994 20 August Hell and High Water W.Moir, P.Allen, N.Morrison (pre-cleaned)1994 21 August Stone Temple Pilots W.Moir (solo)1994 24 August Extreme W.Moir, P.Allen1994 24 August Nirvana W.Moir, P.Allen (both led)1994 24 August Soundgarden P.Allen, W.Moir (on sight)1994 27 August Raw Meat N.Morrison, J.Wilson, N.Clement (pre-

cleaned)1994 28 August The Terminator W.Moir, N.Ritchie1994 10 September Beyond the Fringe W.Moir, N.Ritchie1994 25 September Sutika S.A.Stronach, A.D.Robertson1994 8 October Unchained Melody W.Moir, N.Ritchie (on sight)1994 Going South1994 Deadheads N.Morrison1994 Aches in Provence J.Wilson, D.Gillan1994 Crossroads N.Morrison1994 Little Creatures N.Morrison1994 Traverse of the Cods J.Wilson1994 The Dregs N.Morrison1994 Automatic N.Morrison1994 The Dark Side N.Morrison1994 Mo N.Morrison1994 Eany N.Morrison1994 Meany N.Morrison1994 Laurel J.Wilson1994 Hardy J.Wilson

1994 Down Under N.Morrison1995 June Polka Dot W.Moir, P.Allen1995 June Rednecks W.Moir1995 June Liquid Dancing Firelight W.Moir, G.Elrick1995 June Existentialism W.Moir, P.Allen (on sight)1995 9 August Lunar Sea A.Cox, S.Pirie (climbed before but never

recorded)1995 15 August Puffin Eliminate S.A.Stronach, I.A.Robertson (on sight)1995 15 August Mo's Traverse/Tyke, Stuart's/Arete

FinishS.A.Stronach, I.A.Robertson (on sight)

1995 October The Prizefighter A.D.Robertson, S.A.Stronach (belayed only, didn’t second the route)

1995 South Wall (Findon Ness) N.Morrison, N.Ritchie1996 24 June The "Dead" Obvious Start (to Bob’s

Overhang)J.Wilson

1996 26 June Ello's Desert Island W.Moir1996 27 June Invertebrates Wall W.Moir, P.Allen1996 September Pow-Wow W.Moir, P.Allen1996 5 October Readser’s Arete J.Read, N.Morrison (on sight)1996 5 October I Saw It First N.Morrison, J.Read (on sight)1996 5 October Veinspotting W.Moir, P.Allen1996 26 October Vespa Vulgaris W.Moir, G.Elrick1996 November The Secret Policeman's Ball Direct W.Moir (solo)1996 November Solar Eclipse P.Allen, A.D.Robertson, W.Moir1996 November Ernest Priar P.Allen, J.Read, W.Moir1996 November Veracious Vera W.Moir, P.Allen, J.Read1996 November C.I.D. Wall W.Moir (solo on sight)1997 9 February Obvious Risk M.Reed (solo after top-roping)1997 23 February Visiting Jo D.Borthwick, O.Clem1997 8 March Hopping Mad N.Morrison, P.Allen

(Climbed before? G.S.Strange and R.J.Archbold climbed a chimney line at the south end of the cliff, just right of a cave, at Severe 3/6/81)N. Morrison broke his heel just after completing the first ascent and spent some time marooned at the base of the cliff.

1997 24 April Guru W.Moir, G.Elrick1997 24 April Halo W.Moir, G.Elrick1997 15 May Brahma W.Moir, G.Elrick1997 31 July Self Abuse T.Rankin, A.Cow1997 31 July Grassy Bum (same as Shag?) T.Rankin, A.Cow1997 August Lesdyxic D.Roberts, D.Laing1997 5 September The Louisville Lip W.Moir, R.Buchanan (pre-practised)1997 7 September Mao-se-Tung K.Milne, S.Richardson1997 7 September The Shape of Nothing K.Milne, S.Richardson1997 11 October Arrythmia W.Moir, P.Allen (2 yo-yo's)1997 18 October Laa-Laa W.Moir, M.Levack1997 4 November Bun-Puncher W.Moir, P.Allen (on sight)1997 4 November Bun-Fight W.Moir, P.Allen (on sight)1997 Foil Wrapped D.Laing, D.Stephenson1997 Messie D.Laing, P.Jessiman1997 Car Wash P.Jessiman, D.Stephenson1997 Half Hearted D.Laing, D.Stephenson1997 Gander D.Laing1997 Way to Go D.Laing, P.Jessiman1997 Set Up D.Laing, D.Stephenson1997 Spiney Norman W.Moir, D.Laing1997 Honey Badger W.Moir, D.Laing1998 24 February Torrent T.Rankin (solo after practice)1998 24 February Torrid T.Rankin (solo after practice)1998 March Yosemite Sam N.Wharton, J.Wilson, N.Morrison (on

sight)1998 21 March Karma Souter W.Moir, G.S.Strange1998 18 April Sunlover’s Traverse W.Moir (solo on sight)1998 May Hard Core D.Laing, D.Stephenson

1998 2 May Snap, Crackle and Drop C.Adam, G.Lennox1998 2 May Ramp On G.Lennox1998 2 May Blow Out G.Lennox, C.Adam1998 2 May Bloodthirsty G.Lennox (one rest)

FFA G.Lennox 7/6/981998 3 May Seabird Pie C.Adam1998 18 May Indecent Exposure T.Rankin, C.Adam1998 19 May Ordinary Route (Red Edge) G.S.Strange1998 23 May New Frontier W.Moir, P.Allen1998 24 May Brian’s Corner B.S.Findlay, R.J.Archbold, R.Ross,

G.S.Strange1998 24 May Red Dwarf G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold, B.S.Findlay,

R.Ross1998 4 June On the Rocks W.Moir1998 16 June The Cairngorm Club's Other Crack S.A.Stronach, F.Sutherland, C.Milne,

I.Shand, D.GiulianottiA mass ascent on a Club meet 97 years after the original Crack was climbed on Clachnaben.

1998 17 June Alpha G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay, R.J.Archbold1998 17 June Bravo B.S.Findlay, R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange1998 17 June Charlie R.J.Archbold, B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1998 6 July The Tuskeneer T.Rankin, J.Omond1998 14 July The Cairngorm Club's Other Crack,

Left Hand FinishS.A.Stronach, S.Kirkpatrick, T.Kirkpatrick

1998 14 July Pink Soup S.A.Stronach, S.Kirkpatrick, T.Kirkpatrick1998 15 July Glintin’ Eye and Bulgin’ Pocket T.Rankin, G.Robertson (pre-practised)1998 19 July Ripper Roo J.Duncan, J.Elmslie1998 22 July Herbivorous T.Rankin, J.Omond1998 22 July Misconception T.Rankin, J.Omond1998 8 August Appeal for Sanity S.A.Stronach, J.Yearsley (on sight)1998 8 August A Waffer Thin Croissant For Sez J.Yearsley, S.A.Stronach (on sight)1998 8 August Fight the Good Fight (climbed before

by N.Morrison?)S.A.Stronach, J.Yearsley (on sight)

1998 13 August Black Saki W.Moir1998 17 August Vanilla Slice T.Rankin, A.Crofton1998 18 August Divine Perception T.Rankin, W.Moir1998 25 August The Yorkshire Whipper T.Rankin1998 26 August Steeplejack R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange1998 26 August Bender G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1998 27 August Breech Birth W.Moir1998 12 September Lofty's Lunge G.Lennox1998 17 September Hareness Prow T.Rankin, M.Reed1998 17 September Hareness Groove M.Reed1998 17 September Hareness Slab T.Rankin1998 5 October Gritstone Mantel T.Rankin (shunted then solo)1998 6 October Jenga Groove T.Rankin (solo)1998 6 October Chef T.Rankin (solo)1998 6 October Mr Hankie T.Rankin (solo)1998 6 October Weight Gain 2000 T.Rankin (shunted then solo)1998 6 October Oh My God T.Rankin (solo)1998 6 October They Killed Kenny T.Rankin (solo)1998 6 October The Bastards T.Rankin (solo)1998 11 October East Pillar G.S.Strange1998 11 October Linkosaurus T.Rankin, M.Reed1998 17 October Blinkered Bat T.Rankin, C.Adam1998 23 October Sphincter Cannon T.Rankin, J.Currie (practised on shunt)1998 23 October The Second Coming T.Rankin, J.Currie (practised on shunt)1998 23 October Mr Potato Head J.Currie, T.Rankin1998 Rainman G.S.Strange, R.Ross1998 Man with the Rack1998 Slither1998 Conger1999 25 March Brigitte Bardot T.Rankin (solo)1999 2 May Pedie Traverse T.Rankin (solo)1999 3 May Scraping the Barrel T.Rankin, M.Scott1999 17 May Weird Sister, Independent Finish T.Rankin, J.Omond (pre-practised)

1999 23 May Siva W.Moir, M.Levack (pre-cleaned)1999 23 May Whispers and Moans T.Rankin, M.Scott1999 26 May Conundrum G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1999 8 June Peanuts J.Omond, M.Watson (on sight)1999 11 June In Search of the Sun J.Omond, T.Rankin1999 16 June Marital Arts T.Rankin (shunted then solo)1999 17 June The Nestler T.Rankin, G.Robertson (pre-practised)1999 22 June The Prizefighter, Bamtamweight

Variation (left hand start to Manassa Mauler)

T.Rankin, G.Robertson (pre-practised)

1999 26 July Waiting for a Delivery S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)Climbed to pass the time between visitinghours at the Maternity Hospital

1999 28 July Barrier Wall G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1999 4 August Gritstone Wall G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1999 4 August Corona G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1999 28 August Jaded S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)1999 September The Usual Story S.A.Stronach, J.Omond (solo on sight)1999 5 September Bridging Loan S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti, K.L.Hawker

(on sight)1999 5 September Kim's Ladder S.A.Stronach (solo)1999 5 September Calum's Arete S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)

Named after the recent addition to the Stronach family

1999 5 September A Bit of What You Fancy S.A.Stronach, K.L.Hawker, D.Giulianotti (on sight)

1999 5 September The Sore Thumb J.Wilson, K.L.Hawker (on sight)1999 5 September Impure Thoughts D.Maudsley, G.Sim1999 7 September Saddle Up D.Coburn, A.Lane (on sight)1999 7 September Cloud Number Nine S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)1999 14 September Binary Boyfriend H.Garrington, T.McAllister (on sight)1999 14 September Daddy Longlegs S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)1999 14 September Haven't Got a Clue D.Giulianotti, S.A.Stronach (on sight)1999 14 September Bad Moon Rising S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)1999 11 November Talk Hard T.Rankin, J.Omond (on sight)1999 16 November Prince Nassem T.Rankin, M.Reed (pre-practised)1999 16 November Listen Carefully T.Rankin (solo on sight)1999 Speculation Groove N.Morrison, J.Wilson?1999 Speculation Crack N.Morrison, J.Wilson?1999 eliminate left of Insect Groove1999 Faith No More T.Rankin (solo)1999 Skills for Adolescents, Direct Start J.Duncan, J.Elmslie1999 Rum, Sodomy and the Lash J.Duncan, J.Elmslie1999 Cruel Sea2000 29 January Diedre Esoteria N.Ritchie, W.Moir (on sight)2000 29 January Wild is the Wind W.Moir, N.Ritchie2000 12 March Gormless D.Giulianotti, S.A.Stronach (on sight)2000 12 March Friendless S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)2000 12 March Cutless D.Giulianotti, S.A.Stronach (on sight)2000 12 March Mostly ‘Armless S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)2000 26 March The Good Witch of the North S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)2000 27 March Rainbow Warrior E.Brown, M.Reed2000 27 March Yosemite Sam, Direct Start E.Brown, M.Reed2000 19 July Incontinent Lobster T.Rankin, G.Robertson (on sight)

(climbed previously but not recorded)2000 16 August Gladiator J.Wilson, N.Morrison (pre-cleaned and

redpointed)2000 18 August Deputy Dog T.Rankin (solo on sight)2000 5 November Bashful S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)2000 5 November Sleepy S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)2000 5 November Sneezy S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)2000 5 November Grumpy S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)2000 5 November Happy S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)2000 5 November Doc S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)2000 5 November Dopey S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)2000 Invalid(s) Excuse D.Maudsley2000 Brass Neck

2000 Feathering Edge2000 Fillarete2000 Quality Ragworms2000 Tar Wall2000 Suncustard D.Richardson (solo on sight)2000 Stookey D.Richardson (solo on sight)

This and the previous route were climbedwith a broken arm!

2000 Play Fair T.Rankin?2001 6 January Gullywasher (climbed before by

N.Morrison?)S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)

2001 14 January Fear Itself S.A.Stronach, D.Kirk (pre-practised)2001 14 January Nail in the Coffin S.A.Stronach, J.Wilson (both led), D.Kirk

(pre-practised)2001 1 April Lie to Me S.A.Stronach, P.Stephenson (on sight)2001 1 April Drop Zone S.A.Stronach, P.Stephenson (on sight)2001 9 May Senate S.Richardson, J.Ashbridge2001 9 May Whizzer S.Richardson, J.Ashbridge2001 31 May The Damned T.Rankin, M.Reed (pre-practised)2001 31 May Ard and Phreeqey T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 31 May Two Fingers of Faith T.Rankin, M.Reed (abseil inspected)2001 June beak at Bass Inlet J.Lines (solo)2001 17 June Desdemona W.Moir, N.Morrison2001 21 June Toxic Terrestrials T.Rankin, M.Reed (abseil inspected)2001 25 June Buzz T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 25 June corner right of Buzz T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 25 June short hanging corner T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 25 June arete left of Buzz T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 25 June corner and crack T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 25 June right arete of black prow T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 27 June In the Mouth of Madness T.Rankin, S.A.Stronach (pre-practised)2001 9 July Goran’s Way T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July Break Water T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July The Chasm T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July Razor Back T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July Appendicitis T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July Mother’s Op T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July Swan Dive T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July Underwater Love T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July The Shark Pool T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July Dolphinarium T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July Teenage Vandals T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 9 July Teenage Vandals, Urban Decay

VariationT.Rankin (solo on sight)

2001 9 July Glass Bottle T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 15 July Black Rain T.Rankin, A.Crofton (on sight)

Climbed in the rain2001 17 July Black Magic T.Rankin, M.Reed2001 17 July Black Pudding T.Rankin2001 23 July Your Number’s Up T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 23 July Scythe of the Reaper T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 23 July Crossing to the Other Side T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 23 July Borrowed Time T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 23 July For Whom the Bells Toll T.Rankin (solo on sight)2001 23 July The Bold and the Brave T.Rankin (solo on sight)

A brave series of deepwater solo ascents2001 26 July Black Comedy T.Rankin, P.Benson

(previously climbed by T.Rankin, M.Reed on 17 July with high runner in place and clipped)

2001 26 July Black Comedy, Black Out Variation T.Rankin, P.Benson2001 14 August Wrist Slasher F.Belcher, K.Banister (on sight)2001 18 August Green Puddle Corner A.Scott, F.Belcher (on sight)2001 18 August Amateur Head Jamming A.Scott, F.Belcher, S.A.Stronach,

G.Wardrope (on sight)2001 18 August Runny Nose A.Scott, G.Wardrope (on sight)2001 18 August Five by Five S.A.Stronach, A.Scott (on sight)

2001 28 August Capitol Wall, Direct Start S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)climbed before but never recorded

2001 28 August Bridge it, Neil son D.Richardson, N.Stables (on sight)2001 Captain Hook2001 Peter Pan2001 The Lost Boys2001 Lip Smacker2002 24 February Euan’s Wall S.A.Stronach, J.Macleod (on sight)

Snow was lying in Aberdeen, but sun-warmed rock provided a warmer day’s climbing than has been experienced in midsummer! There was pressure to get a new line recorded to be named after Stronach’s new baby before the guide deadline.

2002 24 February Dragon After Honey S.A.Stronach, J.Macleod (on sight)2002 24 February crack right of Dragon After Honey S.A.Stronach, J.Macleod (on sight)2002 24 February crack left of Euan’s Wall J.Macleod (solo)2002 24 February slab and cracks left of Euan’s Wall S.A.Stronach (solo)2002 14 May Snow White S.A.Stronach (solo)2002 14 May Anaemic Groove S.A.Stronach (solo)2002 14 May pillar left of Bashful S.A.Stronach (solo)2002 August Stirling Bomber W.Moir2002 Collie Corner T.Rankin2002 Long Dogs T.Rankin2002 The Lurcher T.Rankin2002 Dogs of War T.Rankin2002 The Portlethen Terrier T.Rankin2002 Stigmata T.Rankin2002 Hilti T.Rankin2002 Bosch T.Rankin

Sixth Edition of the Guide published May 2003

2003 April Through the Kay Hole T.Rankin, M.Scott2003 April Kay Holed T.Rankin, M.Scott2003 April Kay Holed, Independent Start T.Rankin, M.Scott2003 April Kay Hole Surgery T.Rankin, M.Scott2003 15 May Red Meat J.Lines (solo)2003 15 May Roaring Forties J.Lines (solo)

Think this was done earlier by W.Moir2003 27 May Super Cracks in Reality J.Lines (solo)2003 May Shoestring N.Morrison, P.Allen2003 May Jeelyfish N.Morrison, P.Allen2003 May Fascination Streak T.Rankin2003 3 June Sushi J.Lines (solo)2003 3 June Odin T.Rankin, M.Reed2003 6 June Perseus J.Lines (solo)2003 9 June Fist Full of Barnacles J.Lines (solo)2003 9 June Majuro J.Lines (solo)2003 9 June Enewetak J.Lines (solo)2003 9 June Taongi J.Lines (solo)2003 9 June Kwajalein J.Lines (solo)2003 8 July No Doubts T.Rankin, R.Birkett2003 22 July Deep Rising T.Rankin2003 22 July Little Octo T.Rankin (on sight solo)2003 26 July The Relic T.Rankin, M.Reed (inspected)2003 July Monster of the Deep T.Rankin, A.Crofton (inspected)2003 August Raw Meat, Direct Finish W.Moir, P.Allen2003 4 September Yum Yum Bubble Gum R.Henderson, P.Randall2003 4 September Cunning Linguist P.Randall, R.Henderson2003 October Arachnophobia W.Moir2003 The Incredible Sulk T.Rankin2003 May Fascination Streak T.Rankin2004 25 April Trouble Monkey T.Rankin2004 Toll Route T.Rankin2004 Pay and Display T.Rankin2004 Sweet Charity T.Rankin

2004 Back from the Brink T.Rankin2004 Gone to the Dogs T.Rankin2004 Stray Dogs T.Rankin2004 Dogs Abuse T.Rankin2005 29 May Simeon A.J.Lyons, S.A.Stronach2005 29 May Sabre A.J.Lyons, S.A.Stronach2005 29 May Scoopy Doo S.A.Stronach (solo)2005 29 May Cracking S.A.Stronach, A.J.Lyons2005 July Bamboo Giant M.Bernstein (solo)2005 July Open All Hours M.Bernstein (solo)2005 12 July Hush S.A.Stronach, A.J.Lyons2005 12 July Half Pike C.Fryer, R.Beaton

climbed before but not recorded2005 12 July The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas R.Beaton, C.Fryer2005 12 July Showtime S.A.Stronach, A.J.Lyons2005 12 July Orchid A.J.Lyons, S.A.Stronach2005 13 July Willy the Pimp A.J.Lyons (solo)2005 13 July Mind the Gap, Direct Start S.A.Stronach, A.J.Lyons2005 13 July Foxes and Chickens S.A.Stronach, A.J.Lyons2005 13 July What’s the Time, Mr Wolf? R.Beaton, C.Fryer2005 13 July Trivial Pursuit S.A.Stronach (solo)2005 13 July Fair Trade C.Fryer, R.Beaton, S.A.Stronach,

A.J.Lyons2005 13 July No Sign of the Sun A.J.Lyons, S.A.Stronach2005 26 July Willy the Pimp, Direct Start S.A.Stronach (solo)2005 26 July Mind the Gap S.A.Stronach, A.J.Lyons2005 26 July In Case of Emergency S.A.Stronach (solo)2005 26 July Yo-yo Nicks A.J.Lyons, S.A.Stronach2005 26 July Low level traverse S.A.Stronach2005 26 July Once More, With Feeling S.A.Stronach, A.J.Lyons2005 26 July All Change C.Fryer, R.Beaton2005 26 July I Love Betty Swallocks A.Inglis, S.Burnett2005 August Letterboxer C.Fryer, R.Beaton2005 August Once More, With Feeling, the Twice

More StartC.Fryer, R.Beaton

2005 Morrison’s Missed Adventure T.Rankin2005 Out Back T.Rankin2005 Go West W.Moir2005 Makosi T.Rankin2005 Titanic T.Rankin2005 The Keel T.Rankin2005 Span-utan T.Rankin2005 The Smile Child T.Rankin2005 Lewbee Doobee T.Rankin2005 Superlew T.Rankin2006 July Upper East Girdle J.Lines (solo)2006 12 July Longview S.A.Stronach, A.J.Lyons2006 Cheeky Madam T.Rankin2006 The League of Whingers T.Rankin2006 Rankin’s Rain Games T.Rankin2006 The Closer T.Rankin2007 8 July Grimly Fiendish, Direct Start G.Lennox, E.Barber2007 Spice of Life T.Rankin

NO/MISSING DETAILS:

North Doonies YawnSlab Wall

Bridge of One HairMr Smee

Long SloughTrango – first free ascent

Souter HeadMythical Wall – Chockstone StartThe Last Post – Gordon, McCoss, Watson (no date)

Souter Head to “Limbo”Chamonix Crack (from 1969 guide, but no longer exists - filled in)

South CoveTower Chimney

HarenessPink Crack

ClashrodneyJug FestHave One On MeChesterQuick CornerThe Nosecounter diagonal to Capitol Wall – S Richardson (no date)

EarnsheughThe Descent Route

Cranhill CragBirder’s Route

Harbour WallBottleneck Chimney

BoltsheughSevere wall left of The Enemy WithinJohn’s route by the cave 1 – J.Wilson (no date)John’s route by the cave 2 – J.Wilson (no date)

Tilly TennantNorth Face

THE COAST NORTH FROM ABERDEEN

1946 Scimitar Ridge Tewnion brothersMost of the climbs made in this section and credited to T.W.Patey were done by various combinations of Tom Patey, Mike Taylor and Charlie Morrison between 1949 and 19521949 Crabs Wall T.W.Patey

Patey’s first new routeEarly 1950s

Chimney Girdle T.W.Patey and party

1950s Ordinary Route (Walrus Ridge) T.W.Patey1950s Tennent's Girdle and North-East

RidgeT.W.Patey, N.Tennent

1950s Kincorth Chimney T.W.Patey1950s Hellgate Chimney T.W.Patey1950s Rhino T.W.Patey1950s Oboe T.W.Patey1950s Piccolo T.W.Patey1950s Alligator Crawl T.W.Patey1950s Sellars' Sortie R.Sellars1950s Lovat's Escape L.Lovat1950s Parted Jaws T.W.Patey1950s Viper's Drag T.W.Patey1950s V-Climb T.W.Patey1950s D-B Arete T.W.Patey1950s Divertimento G.McLeod1950s McLeod’s Climb G.McLeod1950s Pinnacle Gully G.McLeod1950s Slab Wall G.McLeod1950s Fulmar Finish A.Thom1950s The Necklace1950s Scimitar Ridge from the South1950s Twin Cracks1950s The Longhaven Circuit1950s Three Pitcher1950s Four Pitcher1950s Left Edge Route1950s Connecting Ridge1950s South Arete1950s Back Route1950s Central Buttress Route1950s Corkscrew Route1950s The Red Tower Circuit1950s East Crack1950s Original Route (The Round Tower)1950s Rest and Be Thankful Chimney1950s Hilarity1950 Stepped Ridge T.W.Patey, M.D.Coutts1950 The Ridge Route T.W.Patey1950 Monkey Direct T.W.Patey1950 Hanging Blocks Climb T.W.Patey1950 Horseback Ridge T.W.Patey1950 Lochan Buttress T.W.Patey1950 Route 1 (Longhaven Quarries) C.Morrison1950 Route 2 (Longhaven Quarries) C.Morrison1950 Lagoon Edge T.W.Patey1950 Windy Corner T.W.Patey1950 The Long Traverse T.W.Patey1950 The Great Diedre T.W.Patey (1 peg for aid)1950 Parallel Chimneys T.W.Patey1950 Tarzan Wall T.W.Patey1950 Abseil Route T.W.Patey1950 North-West Corner (Original Route) T.W.Patey1950 South-West Corner T.W.Patey1950 Sea Traverse T.W.Patey1950 Southeast Corner T.W.Patey1950 South Buttress Direct T.W.Patey

1950 Main Traverse, Cock’s Caim T.W.Patey1950 Comet Crack T.W.Patey1950 Tooth Direct T.W.Patey1950 Crock’s Crack T.W.Patey1950 Bottleneck T.W.Patey1951 Diagonal Shelf T.W.Patey1951 Diagonal Crack T.W.Patey, M.D.Coutts1951 Morrison’s Pitch C.Morrison1951 Hallelujah Staircase T.W.Patey, C.Morrison

Climbed barefoot in a snowstorm1951 The Great Traverse T.W.Patey and party1951 Round Tower Girdle1952 Red Wall Traverse T.W.Patey, W.D.Brooker1952 The Last Trump T.W.Patey, W.D.Brooker1955 Slab and Layback1956 Brooker's Boomerang W.D.Brooker, R.W.P.Barclay1957 Cyprus Wall F.R.Malcolm and party

First Edition of Guide published 19601960 The Plug C.A.Sands1960s Red Slab1960s Munich Buttress (aid)1960s Brooker’s Boomerang, Direct Start1965 Virgo J.Light, I.Paterson (aid)

FFA P.Williams?1960s J.Light, I.Patersonlate 1960s

Original Route (Meikle Partans) Never recorded as an actual climb, this just happens to be the easiest way up thebuttress

1966 Phaff P.Hindmarsh, A.Fyffe1966 Gemini A.Fyffe, Williams1966 The Present A.Fyffe, P.Hindmarsh (2 pegs for aid used

on top corner. FFA ?)1967 1 October Ginhouse J. Bower, G.S.Strange, M.McKie 1967 15 October Stretch D.Mercer and party

Climbed the same day as Paterson and Hamilton were lost off the Phaff traverse on a Lairig Club meet to the Red Wall

1967 Bird’s Nest Route D.Duncan, D.Reid1967 Slanting Crack D.Duncan and party1967 Curving Chimney D.Duncan and party1967 Constellation D.Duncan and party1967 The Riff D.Duncan and party1967 Klacktovededstene D.Duncan and party1967 Amen Corner D.Duncan and party1967 Ornithology D.Duncan and party1967 Ostrichism D.Duncan and party1967 Airegin D.Duncan and party1967 Straight-No-Chaser D.Duncan and party1967 Oleo D.Duncan and party1967 Groovin’ High D.Duncan and party1967 Ledgeway D.Duncan and party1967 Gobbledygook D.Duncan and party1967 Django D.Duncan and party1968 12 May Epistrophe G.S.Strange, D.Duncan1968 12 May The Bridge G.S.Strange, D.Duncan1968 12 May Jug Wall G.S.Strange, D.Duncan1968 12 May Tiptoe Crack G.S.Strange, D.Duncan1968 4 September The Band of Hope M.Rennie, G.S.Strange1968 4 September Brittle Wall G.S.Strange, M.Rennie1968 27 October Perdonlie Edge M.Rennie, G.S.Strange, C.A.Sands1968 17 November Ledge Route R.Simpson1968 Sea-Level Traverse A.Fyffe and party

Actual date unknown, but climbed prior toPerdonlie Edge

1969 9 March Kevin’s Fault G.S.Strange, K.Markham (Two pegs and one nut for aid using the left hand start.

FFA 1984 on the first ascent of Urban Gorilla)

1969 5 April Reprieve G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1969 5 April Zwango B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1969 5 April Greater Perdonlie Traverse B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1969 27 April Left Edge Route B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1969 27 April Route One G.R.Simpson, P.Kale1969 27 April Route Two J. Bower, G.S.Strange, M.McKie1969 May Albatross B.S.Findlay, M.Rennie1969 May Renegade M.Rennie by A2 start

Traverse in by B.S.Findlay, G.Boyd 9 March 1969 but route not completedSecond Edition of Guide published 1969

1969 19 October Girdle Traverse (Fulmar Wall) B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1969 9 November Oh Well A.Fyffe, G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1969 9 November Intrusion G.S.Strange, A.Fyffe, B.S.Findlay1969 9 November Walkabout (originally called Purple

Haze)G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay, A.Fyffe

1970 26 April The Weight G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1971 April Magic Dragon D.Dinwoodie (solo)

Dinwoodie’s first new route1971 May The Crocodile D.Dinwoodie, S.Owen1971 7 July The Shaft D.Stuart, G.S.Strange1971 28 November Shallow Diedre D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1971 28 November Flaky Traverse D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1971 The Bridge, Left-hand Variation1971 Dungo D.Innes, D.Dinwoodie1971 Green Groove1972 Far East Crack A.Maxfield1972 North Sea Buttress A.Maxfield1972 Dunbuy Diedre A.Maxfield, P.Smith, C.Anderson1972 Eastern Circuit A.Maxfield1972 Maxfield’s Route A.Maxfield

FFA A.Ross, C.Ord 19851972 Iguana D.Stuart, R.Harris1972 The Black Cleft D.Stuart, R.Harris1972 Piranha D.Dinwoodie, D.Riley1972 Orodruin C.Butterworth, Frost1973 3 February The Groak D.Innes, G.Muhlemann, G.S.Strange1973 30 September Whisky Galore R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange, C.Heap1973 14 October Perdonlie Crack G.S.Strange, A.Lawson1973 14 October Isostase G.S.Strange, A.Lawson1973 Billy the Kid D.Dinwoodie, R.Ross1973 Pioneer’s Traverse A.Maxfield1974 Route X A.Frost, A.N.Other1974 Blockhead Arete D.Dinwoodie1975 9 March Pearly Gates R.A.Smith, D.Wright, M.Freeman,

G.S.Strange1975 9 March Slithy G.Muhlemann, J.Higham1975 9 March The Toltec D.Dinwoodie, A.McIvor1975 5 October The Hanging Slab G.Muhlemann, G.S.Strange1975 5 October Jelly Fish R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie, H.Towler1975 5 October Arch Corner R.A.Smith1975 5 October The Bender D.Dinwoodie, R.J.Archbold1975 18 October Pillar Edge D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1975 23 October Sugary Slit D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange, A.N.Other1975 1 November Seapod E.Grindley, G.S.Strange, G.Muhlemann1975 1 November Black Wall E.Grindley, G.S.Strange, G.Muhlemann1975 2 November Sea-Level Traverse D.Dinwoodie, G.Muhlemann,

G.S.Strange1975 Old Castle Chimney1975 Burnt off Corner G.Stephen, R.A.Smith1975 Hell’s Hole R.A.Smith1975 Flying Crack R.A.Smith and party1975 Forlorn Chimney R.A.Smith and party1975 Wire Nest Corner R.A.Smith and party1975 Neutrino M.Milner (solo)

1975 Knacker’s Crack R.A.Smith, D.Boyne (sling for aid)FFA B.Sprunt

1975 Jammy Piece N.D.Keir, M.Freeman1975 The Iron Mare D.Dinwoodie, G.Thomson1975/ 1978

Pink Panther D.Dinwoodie, M.Milner, R.A.Smith

1975 Octopus’ Garden D.Dinwoodie, A.McIvor1975 Romp D.Wright, R.A.Smith1975 The Naked Edge D.Wright, R.A.Smith1975 Pooh Corner S.Ackerley, A.Nisbet1975 Subline S.Ackerley1975 Soft Option A.Robertson1975 King Crimson S.Ackerley1975 The American Route S.Ackerley1975 Pea Pod S.Ackerley, D.Boyne1975 Not So Bad D.Wright, S.Bateson1975 Not So Good D.Wright, S.Bateson1976 2 May The Chute G.S.Strange, R.A.Smith1976 2 May Petrie’s Crack G.S.Strange, R.A.Smith1976 8 May Gwight Traverse G.Muhlemann, G.S.Strange1976 10 October Gendarme Groove G.S.Strange, M.Freeman1976 The Sorcerer R.A.Smith, H.Towler, D.Wallace1976 Basker’s Arete D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1976 Spider’s Corner D.Dinwoodie, G.Thomson1976 Goblin’s Traverse D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1976 Frolic Variation S.Ackerley, G.Muhlemann1976 Bell's Groove A.Robertson, A.Nisbet1976 Innocuous Cracks A.Robertson, A.Nisbet1976 South Wall A.Robertson, A.Nisbet1977 24 April Robie’s Crack R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1977 24 April Promontory Traverse G.S.Strange, G.Muhlemann1977 24 April Toe Cap G.Muhlemann, G.S.Strange1977 14 May Ring Pull R.A.Smith, G.S.Strange1977 14 May Herring Chimney R.A.Smith, G.S.Strange1977 15 May Kipper Wall R.A.Smith, G.S.Strange1977 15 May Escape Route R.A.Smith, G.S.Strange, A.Higham1977 15 May Convicts Wall R.A.Smith, G.S.Strange, A.Higham1977 8 June slab and groove at Whispering Slabs R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange1977 15 June Scurry G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1977 30 June Souter’s Slab G.S.Strange, Alistair ?1977 30 June Last Groove G.S.Strange, Alistair ?1977 24 August Problem Corner G.S.Strange, R.A.Smith1977 27 August Tackety Wall R.A.Smith, G.S.Strange1977 5 September North Glash Traverse G.S.Strange, R.A.Smith, D.King1977 Deputy Dawg R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1977 Sea-Scoop J.Peel, A.Barley1977 Warrior R.A.Smith, H.Towler, D.Wallace1977 Warlord R.A.Smith, H.Towler, D.Wallace1977 Skirmish R.A.Smith, H.Towler, D.Wallace1977 The Warpath1977 Gold Dust R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1977 Baffie

Third Edition of Guide published April 1978

1978 18 August Tyrant Crack D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie1978 Seal’s Show R.J.Archbold, D.Dinwoodie, D.Renshaw1978 Reach For The Sky D.Dinwoodie, R.J.Archbold, D.Renshaw1978 Strawclutcher’s Wall B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1978 The Schism D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1978 Quirk D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1978 Quibble D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1978 Lammylair Slab D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1978 Jinky Grooves D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1978 The Gallows D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith1978 The Bouncer D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1978 Incubus R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1978 The Rumbling Hole D.Dinwoodie, D.Renshaw

1978 Herbivore I.Brooker, W.D.Brooker (1 point of aid)1978 The Jungle Book B.Lawrie1978 Neanderthal Man D.Dinwoodie, D.Renshaw1978 Tumbling Dice B.Lawrie1978 Ramadan D.Renshaw, A.Williams1978 Dick’s Daunder D.Renshaw, A.Williams1979 2 June Flurry J.Unwin, G.S.Strange1979 11 August White Ape B.Lawrie, G.Muhlemann1979 11 August 1, 2, 3, Go G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1979 11 August Walkabout, Direct Start B.Lawrie, G.Muhlemann1979 11 August Rock Mushroom B.Lawrie, G.Muhlemann, G.S.Strange,

R.J.Archbold1979 9 September North Crack M.Hamilton (free)

A.Maxfield (aid) 1972orD.Dinwoodie, M.Freeman (aid)

1979 15 September White Lightning G.S.Strange, D.Nichols, S.Chadwick1979 22 September Aivik B.McMillan, G.S.Strange1979 22 September Snapper G.S.Strange, B.McMillan1979 Main Street R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1979 Little Black Book T.Higgins1979 Atlantis B.Lawrie, R.A.Smith1979 Silver Surfer R.A.Smith, B.LawrieEarly 1980's

The Bloody Traverse R.A.Smith

Mid 1980’s

Monkey See Monkey Do B.Gordon, J.Thompson

1980s West Wall1980 5 April Pocket Wall B.Sprunt, G.S.Strange, A.Nisbet1980 5 April Haricot B.Sprunt, G.S.Strange, A.Nisbet1980 26 April Rough Diamond G.S.Strange, B.Lawrie1980 Whimsy D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith1980 Sugar Plum Fairy D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith1980 Snap, Crackle and Pop R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1980 The Chinese Dance R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1980 Outrider R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1980 Hand Rail Slab D.Dinwoodie1980 Doo’s Chimney D.Dinwoodie1980 Sidekick D.Dinwoodie1980 Lammylair Traverse D.Dinwoodie1980 Phalacracorax D.Dinwoodie1980 Shangri-La D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith1980 Squiddly-Diddly D.Dinwoodie, D.Innes1980 Road Runner D.Dinwoodie, D.Innes1980 Bash Street D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith1980 Big Bully R.A.Smith, D.Dinwoodie1980 The Left Hand of Darkness B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1980 Green Void B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith1980 Green Wall B.Sprunt, R.Milne1980 Pancake Crack1980 Pink Edge1980 Dandy Corner D.Dinwoodie1980 Stoneface B.Lawrie

(upper crack added by D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie 1982)

1980 The Life of Brian B.Sprunt1980 High Voltage B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1981 Parallax Crack R.A.Smith1981 Jolly Rogerer D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith, J.Wyness1982 9 June Oh Well Part Two G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1982 Left Out Route D.Dinwoodie1982 Hot Rats K.Murphy

orN.Morrison, S.Kennedy

1982 Vagitus C.Jamieson1982 Valgus C.Jamieson1982 The Beast D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie

1982 The American Route, Jammy Dodger Finish

C.MacLean, D.Dinwoodie

1982 Monkey Puzzle D.Dinwoodie1982 Excalibur A.Paul?1982 Sun God D.Dinwoodie1982 Free Spirit R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie

This and the four following routes were allclimbed on the same day

1982 Silent Partner R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie1982 Kinetic Control R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie1982 Fracture Zone R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie1982 Hidden Treasure R.A.Smith, B.Lawrie1983 16 January Boardman’s Crack M.Hamilton, G.S.Strange1983 15 May Nagless Crack M.Hamilton1983 Carrion Laughing1983 Morte d’Arthur A.Paul, D.Dinwoodie1983 The Excited Atom N.Morrison, B.Lawrie1983 Last of the Summer Wine B.Lawrie, N.Morrison1983 Little Sassenach B.Davison, N.Morrison, S.Kennedy1983 Blockhead B.Davison, S.Kennedy1983 Waiting for a Train B.Davison, S.Kennedy1983 A Question of Balance B.Davison, N.Morrison, S.Kennedy1983 Slippery Sam A.Ross1983 The Milky Bar Kid A.Ross, C.MacLean, C.Ord1983 The Arrow M.Hamilton, D.Dinwoodie1983 The Bow K.Spence, D.Dinwoodie, M.Hamilton1983 Pink Fink K.Spence, M.Hamilton, D.Dinwoodie1983 Pinko-Subversive D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1983 Red Cloud D.Dinwoodie, A.Paul1983 Crazy Horse D.Dinwoodie, M.Hamilton, K.Spence1983 The Warg D.Dinwoodie, M.Hamilton, K.Spence1983 Gollum's Trail D.Dinwoodie, M.Hamilton, K.Spence1983 Nazi Swine G.Livingston1983 The Great White G.Livingston1983 Levitator G.Livingston1983 Stuka G.Livingston1983 Do Androids Dream of Electric

Sheep?G.Livingston, A.Ross

1983 Under Exposure G.Livingston, C.Ord1983 Loony Tunes A.Ross, C.MacLean, G.Livingston1983 Mowgli M.Hamilton, R.Anderson1983 Waltzinblack B.Lawrie1983 High Tee C.MacLean, C.Jamieson

Fourth Edition of Guide published early 1984

1984 21 September Slains Corner A.Nisbet, G.S.Strange (yo-yoed)1984 21 September The Graip Vine G.S.Strange, A.Nisbet1984 Pulsar A.Ross, N.Morrison1984 Male Menopause A.Ross, N.Morrison1984 Quark A.Ross, N.Morrison1984 Particle Accelerator A.Ross, N.Morrison1984 Norah Batty G.Livingston, C.MacLean1984 Doom Perspiro Despero D.Dinwoodie, N.Morrison(?) (yo-yoed)1984 Riesenwand G.Livingston1984 Urban Gorilla A.Ross (yo-yoed)1984 The Spell D.Dinwoodie, A.Nisbet1984 The American Route, Direct Finish D.Dinwoodie (yo-yoed)1984 Riders on the Storm D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie, N.Morrison1984 End Game B.Lawrie, N.Morrison1984 Flight from Poseidon D.Dinwoodie, A.Nisbet1984 Sea-Sprout1984 Legend A.Dunhill, A.Welsh1984 The Killing Moon A.Dunhill, A.Welsh1984 Impending Doom B.Lawrie, N.Morrison1984 Thieves Like Us A.Dunhill, A.Welsh1985 5 April Compo D.Dinwoodie, K.Murphy1985 1 May Graip and Pillage W.Moir, N.Ritchie

1985 2 May Dwarf Stone N.Morrison, B.Lawrie1985 4 May The Changeling N.Morrison, B.Lawrie (yo-yoed)1985 4 May Trial of Tears N.Morrison, B.Lawrie (yo-yoed)1985 12 May Dare N.Morrison, B.Lawrie, M.Forsyth,

S.Fraser1985 25 May Bloodhunt N.Morrison, A.Ross, B.Lawrie,

D.Lawrence, D.Hawthorn (yo-yoed)1985 5 June Slim Jim G.S.Strange, A.Welsh1985 5 June Stratapax A.Welsh, G.S.Strange1985 25 July Hole in the Wall D.Dinwoodie, C.MacLean1985 11 August Three Steps T.Redfern, H.Redfern1985 4 September The Phantom Graipist N.Morrison, M.Forsyth1985 7 September Russian Arete D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1985 7 September Captain Blood D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1985 14 September Eliminate the 'Droid A.Nisbet, G.Reilly, A.Ross1985 15 September Right of Way A.Nisbet, A.Ross1985 22 September Jonathan Livingstone Seagull A.Ross, D.Dinwoodie1985 22 September Let's Go Drinking D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1985 22 September The Winds of War A.Ross, D.Dinwoodie1985 13 October Pooh Pooh B.Lawrie, M.Forsyth1985 Orangutang N.Morrison, A.Ross1985 The Truth Hurts G.Livingston1985 Vulture Squadron A.Ross, C.Ord (with escape)

N.Morrison, D.Lawrence (full finish, sameday)

1985 Whispering Wind D.Lawrence, N.Morrison1985 Puff C.Ord, A.Ross (on sight)1985 Isostase, Direct Finish1985 Pretty Vacant A.Ross, C.Ord, B.Lawrie1985 Octopussy D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1985 Fred Flintstone A.Ross, C.MacLean1985 Piltdown Connection C.MacLean, A.Ross1985 The Water Margin C.Ord1985 Secret Affair A.Ross, N.Morrison, C.Ord1985 The Diddymen A.Ross, N.Morrison, C.Ord1985 Lonely N.Morrison1985 Not so Lonely N.Morrison, A.Ross, C.Ord1985 Big Diddies A.Ross, N.Morrison, C.Ord1985 Pirelli Wellies A.Ross1985 HVS 5b crack – Hidden Inlet A.Ross, N.Morrison, C.Ord (combination

of)1985 HVS 5c crack – Hidden Inlet A.Ross, N.Morrison, C.Ord (combination

of)1985 Wall of black rock – Hidden Inlet N.Morrison1985 E1 5b wall – Hidden Inlet (Big Titties) G.Livingston1985 Kinesiology A.Ross, D.Hawthorn1985 Telekinesis A.Ross, N.Morrison1985 Captain Pugwash B.Lawrie, N.Morrison (yo-yoed)1986 12 May Third Time Lucky E.Todd, K.Murphy1986 8 July Flurry, Direct Start D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1986 8 July Impending Doom, Direct Start D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1986 8 July Fast Reactor D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1986 8 July The Method D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1986 8 July The Collector D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1986 30 August Hanging Around D.Dinwoodie (yo-yoed)1986 2 September Apeshit W.Todd, G.Livingston1986 11 October Yikes Dikes E.Todd, C.Jamieson1986 11 October Ying E.Todd, C.Jamieson (solo)1986 11 October Yang E.Todd, C.Jamieson, A.Ross (solo)1986 11 October Pumping Velvet E.Todd, C.Jamieson, A.Ross1986 19 October Break on Through G.S.Strange, R.Ross1986 The Berry’s W.Moir, N.Ritchie1986 Cyndi Louper W.Moir, N.Ritchie1986 Wilse’s Gander W.Moir1986 Silk Cut W.Moir, N.Ritchie1986 The Gallows, Direct Finish A.Ross1986 The Hanging Judge A.Ross, D.Dinwoodie

1986 Under 40s Only1986 Squid Vicious A.Ross, I.Davidson1987 29 April Something’s on the Move J.Pearson, F.Pearson1987 7 May Main Crack D.Dinwoodie1987 1 August Ché B.Lawrie, G.S.Strange1987 1 August Roamin’ in the Gloamin’ D.Dinwoodie, J.Hall1987 1 August Rumpy Pumpy D.Dinwoodie, J.Hall1987 1 August Bagheera D.Dinwoodie, J.Hall (yo-yoed from top

peg)1987 2 August Stormwatch J.Pearson, F.Pearson1987 5 August Ultima Thule D.Dinwoodie, J.Hall (heavily yo-yoed)1987 15 August Bloody Hell D.Dinwoodie, A.Gunn1987 August? Bananaman D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1987 4 September The Underworld D.Dinwoodie, J.Hall1987 11 September Sole Fusion G.S.Strange, D.Dinwoodie, R.Watt1987 11 September wall of granite at Souter’s Hole D.Dinwoodie, R.Watt, G.S.Strange1987 13 September Rain God D.Dinwoodie (1st crack yo-yoed)1987 1 November Pariah Crack D.Dinwoodie, R.Watt1987 Castaway W.Moir, N.Morrison, N.Ritchie (on sight)

(previously aided by N.D.Keir, H.Towler)1987 Contrabandeer N.Ritchie, W.Moir, N.Morrison1987 Stegosaurus E.Cameron, E.Haston, N.Stewart1987 Wot No Scum (not in current guide) J.Pearson1987 crack right of Boardman’s Crack (not

in current guide)J.Pearson

1987 crack left of The Riff (not in current guide)

J.Pearson

1987 Ain't Nogood S.Cardwell, S.Smith1987 Bloody Groove D.Dinwoodie, W.Taylor1988 8 July The Jester J.Pearson1988 16 August Arc of a Diver N.Morrison, D.Gillan1988 16 August Scurry, Variation Start N.Morrison1988 4 September The Knacker’s Yard N.Morrison, G.S.Strange1988 Bug (Alligator Ridge - done before?) J.Pearson (solo)1988 Rush J.Pearson, F.Pearson1988 The Shining W.Moir, N.Morrison1988 Shere Khan A.Ross1988 Pyromania1988 North Light1988 Star Light1988 Running Light1988 Dead Light1988 Star Light1988 Port1988 Starboard1988 Storm Light1988 Bandicoot1989 January In Flight Entertainment K.Milne, P.Allen1989 8 September Souter Johnnie N.Ritchie1989 1 October Swagbag N.Ritchie, J.Taylor, A.Buchan1989 Muckle Corner D.Dinwoodie, M.Ross (?)1989 Encore J.Pearson1989 Monkey Right Hand1989 Telegraph Road J.Pearson, F.Pearson (top roped first)1990 22 April Hobnobs K.Milne, G.Scott, J.Owen1990 1 May Over the Bridge (Meikle Partans) J.Lines, D.Roberts1990 19 May The Cowboy J.Lines, K.Thom1990 May Doorway B.Gordon, J.Thompson1990 9 June Easter Island (not in current guide) J.Lines, D.Roberts (aid)1990 11 November The Sensual World W.Moir, P.Allen1990 19 June African Face J.Lines, D.Roberts (yo-yoed)1990 July Solitaire S.Richardson1990 Squid Pro Quo A.Ross1990 Gies a Squid A.Ross1990 The Seal J.Lines1990 Edgeling J.Lines1990 Esoteria J.Lines

1991 May Revision T.Johnston, S.Turnbull1991 22 June Facegod W.Moir, J.Wilson1991 25 August Knackered N.Morrison, N.Ritchie, D.Gillan,

K.Maciver1991 28 September Animal Magnetism W.Moir, P.Allen1991 28 September Pornograffiti W.Moir, P.Allen (on sight)1991 15 November Plutonic Verses J.Lines, S.Bally1991 7 December Azerbaijani W.Moir, J.Lines1991 18 December Tongue of a Goddess (not in current

guide)Neil, you’ve scored through this route on your print out. Why delete reference to this line but not others that never made it into the guide?

J.Lines

1992 26 May Making Windows J.Lines, D.Gillan, S.Fraser, Davy the carwasher? (after practice)

1992 October Soul Mate W.Moir, G.Elrick1993 14 March Truce K.Milne, J.Ashdown1993 18 March Harmony K.Milne, M.Atkins1993 5 June Golden Handshake W.Moir, P.Allen

Fifth Edition of Guide published early 1994

1994 31 May Taliesin B.Gordon, T.Jones1994 31 May The Morrigan B.Gordon, T.Jones1994 29 November Wasted Years (a.k.a. The Bear

Necessities)M.Ingham, K.Wallace (after practice)

1994 Little Welsh Girl S.Cardwell, P.Main1995 14 September Spice Crack B.Gordon, T.Jones, S.Gordon1995 14 September Sugar Crack T.Jones, S.Gordon1995 14 September Graip Ape T.Jones, S.Gordon1995 October Spanish Corner, The Farewell Finish S.A.Stronach, A.D.Robertson

Roberston emigrates to Boston shortly afterwards

1995 October Crimson Tide W.Moir, P.Allen (on sight)1995 Twinkletoes1996 4 June Comedy of Errors S.A.Stronach, F.Rowan, J.Read (on

sight)1996 4 June Comedy of Errors, Variation Finish S.A.Stronach, F.Rowan, J.Read (on

sight)1996 1 September The Bridge, Talisman Variation S.Richardson, D.Mithen1996 9 October Hundred Acre Wood G.Latter, J.Read (both led), P.Allen1996 9 October Akimbo G.Latter, J.Read, P.Allen1997 20 March Route One M.Reed, T.Rankin1997 April The Keyway T.Jones, S.Gordon1997 May Spanish Corner, Santa Caterina T.Rankin, M.Reed1997 30 May Rock Mushroom, Direct Finish M.Reed1997 June Roger the Cabin Boy T.Rankin, M.Reed1997 9 June M + M’s M.Reed, M.Bruce1997 9 June Freestate M.Reed (cleaned on abseil and shunted

once)1997 10 June Ultra M.Reed, A.Crofton (cleaned on abseil

and shunted once)1997 10 June Interstate M.Reed, G.Robertson (on sight)1997 9 August Simon Goes East M.Reed, S.Christie1997 9 August The Collector, The Rebate Finish M.Reed, S.Christie1997 15 August Obvious Edge T.Rankin, M.Scott1997 29 August Family Life M.Reed, G.Robertson1997 29 August The Heightist G.Robertson, M.Reed1997 24 September Man Friday T.Rankin, A.Crofton1997 27 September The Lick

(climbed previously by J.Pearson in 1988? His route graded 4c, The Lick graded severe)

S.A.Stronach, F.Sutherland

1997 27 September Contact S.A.Stronach, F.Sutherland1997 12 October United Germany W.Moir, P.Allen1998 20 March Crazy Water M.Reed, I.Fisher (top roped previously)1998 20 March Timidity Splits I.Fisher, M.Reed

1998 26 April The Smuggler’s Waltz I.Fisher, G.Robertson, J.Currie1998 26 April Collieston Calling G.Robertson, I.Fisher, J.Currie1998 May Shellfish T.Rankin, M.Reed1998 May Stuka, The Mesherschmit Finish M.Reed, P.Wormold (top roped prior to

leading)1998 June Methadonia W.Moir, J.Wilson (both led)1998 14 June Feeling Groovy W.Moir, N.Ritchie (on sight)1998 August Unhinged B.Gordon, T.Jones1998 2 August Crash Bandicoot J.Duncan, J.Elmslie1998 2 August Tomb Raider J.Duncan, J.Elmslie1998 2 August Skull Monkeys J.Duncan, J.Elmslie1998 13 August Fins Not Flippers K.Amaira, R.Bouchard1998 15 August Butt Kicker W.Moir, P.Allen1998 17 August Grey Seal M.Reed, N.Anderson1998 18 August White Lightning, Extended Finish W.Moir, P.Allen, G.Elrick, M.Reed1998 20 August Blue Moves M.Reed, T.Rankin (top groove pre-

cleaned)1998 20 August Empty Sky M.Reed, T.Rankin1998 22 August Banjo Kazooie W.Moir (pre-cleaned)1998 24 August Red Bull J.Lines (solo)1998 24 August Baloo J.Lines (solo)1998 30 August Madman Across the Water W.Moir, N.Morrison (pre-inspected)1998 10 September Chameleon M.Reed, N.Anderson (on sight)1998 10 September Kyle’s Groove M.Reed, N.Anderson1998 15 September Shoulder Holster M.Reed, N.Anderson1998 15 September Come Down in Time M.Reed, N.Anderson (top roped prior to

leading)1998 15 September Angel Delight N.Anderson, M.Reed1998 2 October Razor Face M.Reed, N.Anderson (top roped prior to

leading)1998 2 October Mr Frantic M.Reed, N.Anderson1998 8 October Mona Lisas M.Reed, N.Anderson1998 8 October Madhatters M.Reed, N.Anderson (top roped

previously)1998 10 October Lady Samantha M.Reed, T.Rankin (top roped previously)1998 10 October Bite Your Lip M.Reed, T.Rankin (top roped previously)1998 10 October Amoreena T.Rankin, M.Reed1998 22 October Go Humble M.Reed (top roped prior to leading)1998 Hirondelle1998 Bones Corner1998 The Shield1998 Flurry, True Direct Start1999 1 February Heavens Hound M.Reed (solo)1999 21 February Brass Monkeys J.Duncan, J.Elmslie1999 26 February Epistrophe, Diagonal Variation T.Rankin, C.Adam1999 26 February The Bridge, Bold as Brass Variation T.Rankin, C.Adam1999 26 February Big Band T.Rankin (solo)1999 14 March End of the Line J.Duncan, J.Elmslie1999 24 March Lung Shadow M.Reed, N.Anderson1999 24 March Teardrop M.Reed (crux pre-practised)1999 5 April Tide and Time M.Reed, T.Rankin (pre-practised)1999 21 May The Lonesome Lug M.Reed (solo)1999 21 May Blacklist M.Reed (solo)1999 21 May Cold Shoulder M.Reed (solo)1999 21 May Coral Dew M.Reed (solo)1999 26 May Alienation M.Reed (on sight solo)1999 26 May Humorous Hughie M.Reed (solo)1999 26 May Solitude M.Reed (solo)1999 1 June Mushy Peas M.Reed (solo)1999 1 July Dry Moss M.Reed1999 Zen1999 30 July Treasure Island M Reed (solo)1999 30 July 6a finger crack, Yoag’s Island M Reed (solo)1999 30 July grooved right arete, Yoag’s Island M Reed (solo)1999 30 July cracked wall, Yoag’s Island M Reed (solo)1999 30 July cracked wall right arete, Yoag’s Island M Reed (solo)1999 Fulminating Fulmar

1999 Green Arete1999 Crazy Corner2000 4 February Carriage Paid N.Everett, S.Muir2000 12 February Holy Willie's Prayer N.Ritchie, W.Moir (on sight)2000 12 February Heavenly Pursuits W.Moir, N.Ritchie2000 13 February Salmon Pink W.Moir, N.Morrison2000 13 February Salmon Chanted Evening N.Morrison, W.Moir2000 13 February Avoiding the Issue W.Moir, N.Morrison2000 20 February Velitand M.Reed, P.Benson (1 rest)2000 20 February Girls Just Wanna Have Fun W.Moir, P.Allen, N.Ritchie (on sight)2000 26 February Blackballed W.Moir, P.Allen, N.Ritchie2000 11 March The Issue W.Moir2000 11 March Clunk Clique (Every Trip) M.Reed, E.Brown (on sight)2000 11 March Tender Cleft W.Moir2000 11 March Silkworm W.Moir, R.Hewitt, N.Ritchie (on sight)2000 11 March Wireless Wall W.Moir, R.Hewitt2000 11 March Last Tangle in Partick N.Ritchie, C.Munro (on sight)2000 13 March Trilogy M.Reed (top roped then solo)2000 18 March Dundee K.Milne, J.Stearn2000 18 March The Tyburn Jig M.Reed, J.Duncan (redpointed)

Led clean 19/3/00 M.Reed, E.Brown, P.Benson

2000 18 March Basil Brush E.Brown, M.Reed, P.Benson (on sight?)2000 19 March Percy P.Mather, S.Muir, S.McCallum2000 19 March The Flying Scotsman S.Muir, P.Mather, S.McCallum2000 19 March Thomas the Tank Engine P.Mather, S.Muir, S.McCallum2000 26 March Seals View K.Milne, M.Atkins2000 29 March The Fat Controller P.Mather, I.Forth2000 29 March Gordon P.Mather, I.Forth2000 4 April Alter Crack G.S.Strange2000 8 April South Crack E.Brown, P.Benson (ground up with falls

then redpointed with gear in place)originally climbed in 1972 A.Maxfield, C.Butterworth (aid)

2000 24 August Twister P.Mather, D.Shaw2000 24 August Modern Buddism D.Shaw, P.Mather2000 24 August Feels Extreme D.Shaw, P.Mather2000 24 August Ker-Plunk P.Mather, D.Shaw2000 24 August Sailing P.Mather, D.Shaw2000 24 August Zawn P.Mather, D.Shaw2000 30 August unnamed (Meakie Point) M.Reed, T.Rankin2000 3 September Tomahawk W.Moir, N.Morrison (cleaned by abseil)2000 4 September Hurricane Heros M.Reed, T.Rankin (cleaned by abseil)2000 6 September The Few T.Rankin, M.Reed (pre-practised)2000 9 September Here Comes the Bride W.Moir, N.Morrison (cleaned by abseil)2000 15 October Shrinking Violet M.Reed, G.Robertson (on sight)2000 15 October Rusty Edge R.Ross, G.S.Strange2000 15 October Bellows G.S.Strange, R.Ross2000 15 October Forge G.S.Strange, R.Ross2000 15 October Anvil Chorus G.S.Strange, R.Ross2000 15 October Edge Hammer G.S.Strange, R.Ross2000 21 October Smiddy Corner P.Allen, G.S.Strange2000 21 October Brazen Wall G.S.Strange, P.Allen2000 Summer Puffin Packs his Suitcase P.Mather (solo)2000 Anvil Chorus, Variation Finish2000 Iron Man2000 Silverado2000 Silver Machine2000 Silver Darling2000 Silver Spoon2000 Silverside2000 Silver City2000 Boulder Problem2000 Hurry2001 June Pump ’n’ Jump J.Lines (solo)

This and the following two routes climbedas deep water solos

2001 June Aquaphoria J.Lines (solo)2001 June Dances With Seals J.Lines (solo)2001 8 June The Sugar Loaf M.Robson, S.Richardson2001 Summer Ricardo’s Line R.Hewson, P.Mather, R.Strachan2001 Summer Rod’s Line R.Strachan, P.Mather, R.Hewson2001 Summer Oblong P.Mather, R.Strachan, R.Hewson2001 Summer Bamboo P.Mather, R.Hewson, R.Strachan2001 6 September Velvet Stars P.Mather2001 6 September Panda’s Corner P.Mather2001 Every Cloud...2001 First Night Nerves2001 Old Cobblers2001 Eastern Promise2001 wall at Corbie’s Hole

Sixth Edition of the Guide published May 2003

2003 23 March Mezzanine M.Reed, R.Birkett2003 23 March Saraman M.Reed, R.Birkett2003 28 July The Vineyard G.W.M.Allan, K.Wallace2003 6 September Nest Route B.Duthie, B.MacAdam2003 21 September Annimal S.Stronach, N.Seal

NO/MISSING DETAILS:

Smuggler’s CliffScurvyRobinson CrusoeBlock and TackleBlock and Tackle, Direct StartLookout

The GraipAccording to 1960 guide, about a dozen routes were made on this face at VDiff or harder. Only one climb wasnamed, Elbow Groove (the obvious right-angled corner about halfway along the face). Mike Taylor says 1949-1950. Possibly all top-roped by a combination of Patey, Taylor and Morrison. Ray Burnett may have led many ofthese in 1968 but details have been lost.Bogus CornerSpanish CornerElbow GrooveKnee TremblerBone ShakerCrick in the NeckGraips of WrathBunches of FivesFar EdgeFaraway ChimneyCrack VariantSea-Level Traversemid-height traverse

Silver Walltraverse from Silverado to Bloody Holethe 3 lines on wall north of Silver Wall

Meikle PartansThe Bridge, Right Hand Variation (J.Lines?)Scum Again – A.Ross, N. Morrison (no date)

Crab’s WallAll routes by A.Ross (no date)

GreymareSlanting groove on Aiguille du TrouSlab right of groove on Aiguille du Trou

Arthur FowlieMagic Dragon, Direct Start

Longhaven QuarryThisinura - J.Light, I.Paterson (no date)Shelf Route

Red TowerNortheast Corner

The Round TowerWall left of Silver Surfer

Meackie PointSevere corner left of Something’s on the Move

Hidden Treasure WallHerring Chimney, HVS 5a variation

Rownies SclateAll 4 cracklines

MORAY AREA

1930s Various routes were climbed at Covesea by members of the Moray Mountaineering Club1978 March Bottomless Chimney (starting up

Headbanger. Direct by D.Dinwoodie, 1983)

J.R.Mackenzie, T.Anderson

1978 March Headbanger J.R.Mackenzie, T.Anderson1978 April Route One J.R.Mackenzie, F.Adams1978 April Kneewrecker Chimney J.R.Mackenzie, F.Adams1978 14 May Route Two R.McHardy (solo)1978 14 May Gutbuster R.McHardy (p1), J.R.Mackenzie (p2)1978 14 May Gorilla J.R.Mackenzie, R.McHardy, M.Birch1978 14 May Pipefish Wall R.McHardy, J.R.Mackenzie1978 14 May Sunshine Roof J.R.Mackenzie, R.McHardy, M.Birch1978 14 May Sunshine Groove R.McHardy (solo)1978 14 May Sunshine Crack J.R.Mackenzie (solo)1978 29 July Dali’s Wall R.Brown, M.Birch, J.R.Mackenzie1978 29 July Sidle J.R.Mackenzie, R.Brown, M.Birch1978 29 July Left J.R.Mackenzie, R.Brown, M.Birch1978 29 July Centre M.Birch, J.R.Mackenzie1978 29 July Right J.R.Mackenzie, R.Brown1978 19 August Middle Muddle Groove J.R.Mackenzie, F.Adams1978 19 August Middle Muddle Direct J.R.Mackenzie (solo)1978 19 August Jugular Wall F.Adams, J.R.Mackenzie1978 19 August Mud, Sweat and Tears F.Adams, J.R.Mackenzie1978 19 August Legbuster J.R.Mackenzie, F.Adams1978 19 August Graffiti Chimney J.R.Mackenzie (solo)1978 25 November Expanders Crack J.R.Mackenzie, D.McCallum1978 25 November Sunshine Recess J.R.Mackenzie (solo)1979 25 February Flakey Wall J.R.Mackenzie, D.McCallum,

D.Butterfield1979 25 February Stegosaurus D.McCallum, J.R.Mackenzie1979 March Doubtless Wall M.Birch, J.R.Mackenzie1979 12 May Solo Wall J.R.Mackenzie (solo)1979 12 May Black Roof J.R.Mackenzie, M.Birch1979 12 May Slimline Chimney J.R.Mackenzie, D.Gilbert, M.Birch (solo)1979 12 May Flying Groove M.Birch, J.R.Mackenzie, D.Gilbert1979 25 June Armstretcher J.R.Mackenzie, R.Butler (solo)1979 25 June The Gripper J.R.Mackenzie, D.McCallum, M.Birch1979 25 June Double Stretch R.Butler, J.R.Mackenzie 1979 1 September Power Struggle J.R.Mackenzie (top roped then led)1979 1 September Sandstone Wall J.R.Mackenzie, D.McCallum1979 Central Face Low Level Traverse1980s Stress Relief (which variation?)late 1980s

Bay Watch N.Clement (later claimed by C.Hornsby in1998)

1980 16 February The Prophet J.R.Mackenzie, I.Dalley1980 16 February The Artful Dodger D.Butterfield, J.R.Mackenzie1980 10 May Beastie’s Wall D.Butterfield, J.R.Mackenzie1980 10 May Borderline J.R.Mackenzie, D.Butterfield1980 10 May Cascade J.R.Mackenzie, D.Butterfield1980 29 May Sunshine J.R.Mackenzie (solo)1980 25 June East Side Story J.R.Mackenzie, J.Harley1982 The Nest D.Dinwoodie, K.Murphy1982 Diedre of Double Doubt B.Lawrie or J.R.Mackenzie?1982 Yorkshire Grip J.R.Mackenzie1983 May Sandy Volestrangler D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross (solo)1983 Skelp C.MacLean, A.Ross1983 King Swing C.MacLean, A.Ross (solo)1983 Hernia Corner C.MacLean

(originally aided by I.Clough, 1960s)1983 The Conjurer A.Ross, D.Dinwoodie (solo)1983 Fingers Wall D.Dinwoodie, C.MacLean

Fourth Edition of Guide published early 1984

1984 February Orange Peel D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross (solo)

1984 February Ginger Snap D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross (solo)1984 November Tangerine Scream D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross (yo-yoed)1984 November Sea Witch A.Ross (solo)1984 November The Grab G.Livingston (solo)1984 November Palmist D.Dinwoodie1984 November Pretty Flamingo A.Ross (solo)1984 December The Melting Clock A.Ross (solo)1984 December Aesthetic Ape D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1984 December I-Ching D.Dinwoodie, D.Hawthorn, A.Ross1984 Thumper D.Dinwoodie, C.Harper1984 Hickory Dickory Dock D.Dinwoodie1984 The Beast A.Ross1984 Orange Ape D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1984 Bat’s Wall D.Dinwoodie1984 Yoohah D.Dinwoodie (solo)1984 Bing-Bong D.Dinwoodie (solo)1984 Gnib-Gnob D.Dinwoodie (solo)1984 Pigmy Shrew D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross (solo)1984 Bank Vole D.Dinwoodie (solo)1984 The Weem D.Dinwoodie (solo)1984 The Wobble D.Dinwoodie (solo)1984 Thud D.Dinwoodie (solo)1984 Giraffe Corner D.Dinwoodie1984 Fourth Dimension M.Hamilton, D.Dinwoodie1984 Brain Warp M.Hamilton, D.Dinwoodie1985 January The Domino Effect D.Dinwoodie (yo-yoed)1985 March The Conjurer, Direct A.Ross1985 March The Nest, Left Hand Start A.Ross1985 7 June The Vertical Smile C.Murray, E.McArthur1985 7 June Per Rectum C.Murray, E.McArthur1985 Beserker A.Ross (solo)1985 Triangular Groove A.Robertson1985 Border Crossing A.Robertson1985 Spare Rib A.Ross (solo, after many attempts)1985 The Nest, Right Hand Start G.Livingston1985 Pegless Wall A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1985 Sunshine Extra A.Robertson1985 Captain Birdseye (in the 1986 pages

of New Routes Book)A.Robertson

1985 Cutty Sark A.Robertson1985 Dirty Old Man A.Robertson1985 Sunset Song A.Robertson1985 Footloose A.Robertson1985 Blocky A.Robertson1985 Butchers Broom A.Robertson1985 Shadow Flake (in the 1986 pages of

New Routes Book)A.Robertson

1985 Past Imperfect C.Murray and partner (D.Hawthorn, D.Dinwoodie according to New Routes Book)

1985 Sleepy Hollow D.Dinwoodie, D.Hawthorn1985 Sandanista D.Dinwoodie, D.Hawthorn1985 Banana Republic D.Dinwoodie1985 Dancing in the Dark D.Dinwoodie, D.Hawthorn1985 Celebrate the Bullet C.Murray, D.Hawthorn1986 March Le Crunch A.Ross (solo)1986 24 May Orphan Annie J.Hadwin, A.Nisbet, A.Ross, J.Hall1986 24 May Slyme Cryme A.Ross, J.Hall, A.Nisbet, J.Hadwin1986 6 July Facist Octopus D.Dinwoodie, A.Nisbet1986 6 July The Land of Nod D.Dinwoodie1986 6 July Squadrone Muerte D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1986 August Noddy Machine A.Nisbet, A.Cunningham, S.Stewart

(written up in 1985 pages of New Routes Book)

1986 Private Dancer A.Ross, F.Templeton (1 rest)1986 Bottle Dungeon D.Dinwoodie1986 Thatcher’s Crack F.Templeton, A.Ross

1986 Crack-a-Gow-Gow J.Hall, A.Ross1986 Gowing Nowhere A.Ross, J.Hall1986 The Beachboys A.Ross, J.Hall1986 Reach or Beach A.Ross, J.Hall1986 The Sandman A.Ross, C.Ord1986 The Sandbagger A.Ross, J.Hall1986 Drone Warfare A.Ross, J.Hall1986 Shear Fear A.Ross, J.Hall1986 Primal Scream A.Ross, J.Hall1986 Primitive Thoughts about Modern

GirlsA.Ross, J.Hall, A.Nisbet

1987 June Gibbon J.Hall1987 1 July Fracture Face P.Sugden, H.Davies1987 1 July Tall Order A.Hunt, J.Hall1987 5 August Creepie Crawlie J.Hall, A.Gabb1987 23 September The Prow D.Dinwoodie1987 Annie Hall R.Wood, A.Gunn, A.Ross

also climbed by J.Hall, D.Cummins, J.Kerr 14/6/87 not probably not first ascent

1987 Battle of the Bulge A.Ross, C.Forrest1987 Legover Wall C.Forrest, A.Ross1987 Horny Beast A.Ross, A.Gunn1988 15 March Doubting Thomas B.Hall, J.Hall1988 May/June Drainpipe Wall N.Clement1988 May/June Mr Tweet N.Clement1988 May/June Ultra Radical N.Clement1988 May/June Arch Wall / Welcome to the Beach N.Clement

W.t.t.B. – C.Hornsby (1998?)1988 7 August Synthetic Pathway J.Hall, A.MacEwan1988 28 September Bullworker J.Hall, B.Hall1988 14 October Protection Racket J.Hall, A.MacEwan1988 Appletiser J.Hall, A.Robertson1988 Huggy Bear A.Nisbet1988 Girsie Crack A.Robertson1988 The Gowp A.Robertson1988 Invisible Sun

(according to 1988 SMCJ New Routes supplement and New Routes Book, climbed in 1986 with yo-yo’s)

A.Ross, J.Hall

1989 April Anal Stretch N.Clement1989 May Seagull View N.Clement1989 30 July Roof Crack G.Livingston1990 18 April Urban Gorilla A.Nisbet, J.Hall1990 26 October Off the Leash D.Monteith, J.Hall1990 26 October Juggernaut J.Hall, D.Monteith1990 Paul Tax A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1990 Back and Foot Disease A.Robertson, A.Nisbet1990 The Growl A.Nisbet, L.Healey1990 Cat’s Claws A.Nisbet1993 28 September Per Guano ad Astra J.Preston, P.Amphlett

Fifth Edition of Guide published early 1994

1994 3 May Hacuna Matatta J.Hall, J.Trythall1997 5 August Vein Attraction S.A.Stronach (solo on sight)1997 Welcome to the Beach Variation N.Green, C.Hornsby1998 Atcha C.Hornsby1998 Surf Nazis Must Die L.Johnson, C.Hornsby1998 Bat Attack C.Hornsby1998 Statutory Ape D.Woodward1998 Monkey Mafia L.Johnson1998 Noddy Machine, Mayne Line Start C.Hornsby1998 Jaded Arete A.Nicholson, J.Scott (climbed before?)1998 Bob Line C.Hornsby1998 Jewels Undergroud J.Lines1999 Africa C.Hornsby1999 Archibold C.Hornsby

1999 26 March Family Affair J.Hall, B.Hall1999 7 May Stress Relief J.Hall, B.Woodward (which variation?)2001 Squadrone Muerte, Gurkha Patrol

variation2001 Bottle Dungeon, easier variation

Sixth Edition of the Guide published May 2003

NO/MISSING DETAILS:

CummingstonTom’s WallGraffiti Wall – Moray Sea School (no date)Diedre of Doubt – RAF (no date)Staircase Crack – RAF (no date)Green Crack – RAF (no date)Lumside Crack – RAF (no date)The Lum – RAF (no date)Snotty Nose – RAF (no date)Old Peg Groove – RAF (no date) Moray Sea School free?Cornflake Wall – RAF (no date)Shredded WheatRice Crispie Wall – RAF (no date)The GrooveBombproof – RAF (no date)BlockproofBlockbuster – RAF or Moray Sea School (no date)Doddle Diedre (originally called The Corner) – RAF or Moray Sea School (no date)Trapeze (originally called Classic Wall) – RAF (no date)JerkerThe Soft Option Problems – RAF or Moray Sea School (no date)Slab and Tickle (originally called Sidestep) – RAF or Moray Sea School (no date)Easy AreteGorse RouteFingers Wall DirectFlying Buttress, Left Side – RAF or Moray Sea School (no date)Flying Buttress, Right Side – RAF or Moray Sea School (no date)Back Passage – RAF or Moray Sea School (no date)Coach Bolt Crack – RAF or Moray Sea School (no date)The Stack – Girdle TraverseThe Pedestal – Moray Sea School (no date)Jutting Flake Crack – Moray Sea School (no date)Ramp Route – Moray Sea School (no date)

BANFF AREA

pre-1960 A few climbs were recorded in the area around Tarlair. Adam Watson describes these in the 1960 guide. Scalpel, The Tooth and The Saw are mentioned.

1979 Shark’s Back R.A.Smith1979 Hammerhead A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1979 Cleavage A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1979 The Snout A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1979 The Clasper A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1979 Jam Crack A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1979 Shagreen A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1979 Spiracle A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1979 Tombstone A.Robertson1982 Sea Mouse A.Robertson1982 Bladder Wrack A.Robertson1982 Sea Urchin A.Robertson1982 Poacher A.Robertson1982 Cullenary Delight N.Morrison, D.Claxton

orA.Robertson

1982 Sunnyside Up D.Lawrence, R.McHardy, N.Morrison, A.Nisbet, A.Robertson

1982 Fisherman’s Tail S.Steer1982 Dave’s Dilemma D.Lawrence, R.McHardy, N.Morrison,

A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1982 The Clam A.Robertson1982 Cullen Crack N.Morrison

orA.Robertson

1982 Findlater Rib A.Robertson1982 The Shrimp A.Robertson1982 The Angry Anchovy A.Robertson1982 Callous Crayfish A.Robertson1982 Daisy Link A.Robertson1982 Daisy Cutter A.Robertson1982 Sea Pink A.Robertson1982 Sea Anemone A.Nisbet, D.Lawrence, R.McHardy,

N.Morrison, A.Robertson1982 Greenpeace A.Robertson1982 Anti-Matter A.Robertson1982 Brittle Star A.Robertson1982 Black Hole A.Robertson1982 Moray Eel A.Robertson1982 Rising Star D.Lawrence, N.Morrison, R.McHardy,

A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1982 Fallen Star A.Robertson, D.Lawrence, R.McHardy,

N.Morrison, A.Nisbet1982 Fading Star N.Morrison, D.Lawrence, R.McHardy,

A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1982 Dark Star R.McHardy, D.Lawrence, N.Morrison,

A.Nisbet, A.Robertson1982 The Cull A.Nisbet, D.Lawrence, R.McHardy,

N.Morrison, A.Robertson1982 Lone Star A.Robertson1982 Little Green Man A.Robertson1982 Buckies A.Robertson1982 Cockles A.Robertson1982 Mussels A.Robertson1982 Black Pearl A.Robertson1982 Pathetique A.Robertson1982 Pathology A.Robertson1982 The Garden Path A.Robertson1983 Sea Snake C.MacLean, M.Hamilton

Fourth Edition of Guide published early 1984

1984 May Sunnyside Direct A.Nisbet, S.Allan

1984 May Sandy Crack A.Nisbet, S.Allan1984 May No Hands Crack A.Nisbet, S.Allan1984 June Doc’c Crack A.Nisbet, A.Clifford1984 October That is the Question A.Ross, D.Dinwoodie1984 October Holy Ground D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1984 October Crow’s Crack A.Ross, D.Dinwoodie1984 Cullen Chimney A.Robertson1984 The Skink A.Robertson1985 8 September The Central Belt A.Cunningham, A.Nisbet1985 8 September Easy Over A.Nisbet, A.Cunningham1985? or 1984?

Sea Link A.Robertson? (First recorded ascent?)

1985 Greenvoe A.Robertson1986 September The White Dwarf A.Fyffe and party1986 5 October Bouillabaisse G.S.Strange, R.J.Archbold1986 On the Beach A.Fyffe, I.Peter1986 Polaris A.Fyffe and party1987 Apathy M.Burrows-Smith, I.Peter1988 28 August Loan Shark N.Morrison, G.S.Strange1988 Southern Cross R.Mansfield1988 Northern Logic partly by R.Mansfield but route

constructed1989 9 July Limpet Flakes A.Scrase, M.MacLeod1989 The Skunk A.Robertson1990 11 November Remembrance Sunday S.Allan, J.Hall1990 11 November Fianchetto J.Hall, J.Trythall1990 11 November Endgame J.Hall, S.Allan1990 11 November Material Advantage J.Hall, S.Allan1990 11 November Hanging Pawn J.Hall, S.Allan1990 11 November Mating Net J.Hall, S.Allan1991 10 August Stackattack N.Main, J.Preston1991 10 August Crighton's Crack N.Main, J.Preston1991 10 August Orestes Arete N.Main, J.Preston1991 10 August Rotten Row N.Main, J.Preston1991 18 August Walking the Cod N.Main, J.Preston1991 22 August Tales of Power N.Main, J.Preston1993 7 March Star Struck S.Richardson, R.Everett1993 7 March White Dwarf, Variation, Independent

StartR.Everett, S.Richardson

1993 7 March Western Star R.Everett, S.Richardson1993 7 March Fading Star, Variation R.Everett, S.Richardson

Fifth Edition of Guide published early 1994

1993 4 July Friend R.Webb, F.Neilson, S.Richardson1993 4 July Foe S.Richardson, F.Neilson, R.Webb1993 4 July Arch Enemy S.Richardson, F.Neilson, R.Webb1993 4 July Fat Chick S.Richardson, F.Neilson, R.Webb1994 6 April Central Belt – The Groin Tickler

VariationS.A.Stronach, N.C.Eastmond (belayed only, did not second route) (climbed before?)

1995 28 May Capekyle S.Richardson, J.Ashbridge1995 November eliminate on path wall D.Bisset, G.Bisset1996 11 May Snap Happy S.Richardson, J.Ashbridge1996 12 May Clean Sweep S.Campbell, D.Masson1996 26 May Redhythe Ramp S.Campbell, D.Masson1996 30 May 33½ Inside Leg S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 30 May Two Part Route S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 30 May Parallel Crack S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 4 June False Top J.Brice, K.Munro1996 4 June Giants Staircase K.Munro, J.Brice1996 8 June Hypothetical Immunity S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 8 June Duck Chute S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 8 June The Absence of Evidence S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 8 June The Shield S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 8 June The Rise of Dolphins S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 7 July Foam on the Range S.Campbell1996 8 July Faith K.Munro, S.Campbell

1996 8 July Hope K.Munro, S.Campbell1996 8 July Charity K.Munro, S.Campbell1996 8 July Sea Level Traverse S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 8 July Lap Flap S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 8 July Wipe Out S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 14 July Edge of Distraction S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 14 July Corkscrew S.Campbell, D.Sutherland1996 14 July Green Chasm J.Brice, K.Munro1996 14 July Redhythe Chimney S.Campbell, D.Sutherland1996 14 July The Sound of One Hand Slapping S.Campbell, D.Sutherland1996 14 July Flaky Crack J.Brice, K.Munro1996 14 July Easy Peasy J.Brice, K.Munro1996 14 July Stiral Spaircase S.Campbell, D.Sutherland1996 14 July Deceptive Crack J.Brice, K.Munro1996 18 August Balcony Route S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 18 August Slingsby’s Last Stand J.Brice1996 18 August Stairway to Heaven J.Brice, S.Campbell1996 18 August Big Friendly Crack (BFC) J.Brice, S.Campbell1996 18 August Bridge of Flies J.Brice, S.Campbell1996 20 August Orpheus’ Folly S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 20 August Right Edge Route S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 20 August Diagonal Stride S.Campbell, K.Munro1996 3 September The Switch S.Campbell, K.Munro1997 17 June Neverest S.Campbell, K.Munro1997 17 June Only Route S.Campbell, K.Munro1997 19 June Straight Talking S.Campbell, K.Munro1997 25 June Green Piece J.Preston, K.Munro1997 25 June Short Mean Corner J.Preston, K.Munro1997 25 June Stretcher Case J.Preston, S.Campbell1997 7 August Pandora’s Paradox S.Campbell, K.Munro1997 Stairway to Heaven, Direct Finish1998 9 August Seal's Crack M.Burr, R.Soper1999 9 April Absence of Evidence, Direct Start D.McGimpsey, A.Nisbet1999 9 April The Edge D.McGimpsey, A.Nisbet1999 22 April Teatime Arete D.McGimpsey, V.Chelton, R.McAllister,

A.Nisbet, J.Preston1999 22 April Tea and Biscuits R.McAllister, V.Chelton, D.McGimpsey,

J.Preston1999 22 April Green and Unpleasant Land J.Preston1999 22 April Lemon Squeezy J.Preston1999 22 April Yellow Peril D.McGimpsey, A.Nisbet1999 24 October Spread the Donkey T.Whitaker, S.Richardson (has been

climbed before)1999 24 October eliminate left of Poacher S.Richardson, T.Whitaker2000 9 April Electrical Banana G.S.Strange, R.Ross2000 9 April The White Heart T.Rankin, G.Robertson2000 21 April The Gift Horse N.Morrison (led on J.Wilson’s pre-placed

gear)2000 21 April Eat Your Weetabix N.Morrison (redpointed)2000 13 May Desert Island Discs W.Moir2000 13 May Message in a Bottle P.Allen2000 13 May Marooned W.Moir2000 13 May Easter Island W.Moir2000 13 May Tarlair Affair W.Moir2000 13 May Wild West Hero W.Moir, P.Allen, M.Atkins2000 13 May Doc Holiday P.Allen, M.Atkins, J.Ashdown, W.Moir (on

sight)2001 18 February The Last Drop S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)

Sixth Edition of the Guide published May 2003

2003 15 June Dennis P.Hill, P.Griffin2003 15 June Autonomous Collective P.Hill, P.Griffin2003 14 August Wibble S.Muir2003 14 September Bird Poo Wall N.Everett2003 14 September High Tide Traverse N.Everett2003 14 September Clean Break S.Muir2003 14 September Rampage S.Muir

2003 14 September Lobster Line S.Muir2003 14 September Nailbiter P.Mather2003 14 September Purple Turtle P.Mather, R.Mather2003 28 September The Garnest N.Everett, H.Watson2003 28 September Boggle P.Mather, S.Muir2003 28 September Slab 'n' Tickle R.Goodier, N.Everett2003 28 September Woggle P.Mather, S.Muir2003 28 September Shougle S.Muir, P.Mather2003 28 September Drainpipe Gully R.Goodier2003 28 September A Dream of White Ledges R.Goodier2004 17 April Break Out N.Everett, I.Martin2004 17 April The Deep N.Everett, I.Martin2004 17 April What Became of the Monkey? N.Everett, I.Martin2004 17 April Zebedee P.Mather (unsec)2004 17 April Rachel's Rescue P.Mather, R.Mather2005 1 September Ministry of Silly Walks P.Hill, P.Griffin2005 1 September I'm Brian P.Hill, P.Griffin2005 1 September And So's My Wife P.Hill, P.Griffin2005 1 September Cardinal Fang P.Hill, P.Griffin2005 1 September Flying Circus P.Hill, P.Griffin2005 28 September Bridge of Death P.Hill2005 28 September Mr Creosote P.Hill, P.Griffin2005 28 September Unladen Swallow P.Hill, P.Griffin2005 28 September Coconut P.Hill, P.Griffin2005 28 September Castle Aargh P.Hill, P.Griffin

NO/MISSING DETAILS:

Logie HeadMousehole

ROSEHEARTY

1999 13 June Gorgonzola B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1999 13 June Stopper G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1999 13 June The Shim B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1999 13 June Flakey Wall G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1999 13 June The Ramp G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay (solo)1999 13 June Piece of Cake G.S.Strange, B.S.Findlay1999 13 June Deep Crack B.S.Findlay, G.S.Strange1999 13 June Groovey G.S.Strange (solo)1999 28 September Prestonian C.Munro (solo)1999 September? Ornithology N.Anderson, C.Munro1999 September? Embolism N.Anderson, C.Munro1999 September? Map of Africa C.Munro, N.Anderson1999 September? Heliox N.Anderson, C.Munro1999 September? Another Tick in the Wall C.Munro, N.Anderson1999 September? Nitrox N.Anderson, C.Munro1999 September? Exhale N.Anderson, C.Munro1999 September? Inhale C.Munro (solo)1999 September? Feed the Ego C.Munro (solo)1999 September? Like a Feather C.Munro, N.Anderson2000 16 April Afterglow M.Reed, N.Anderson (on sight)2000 16 April Lipp Service M.Reed, N.Anderson (on sight)2000 21 April Egghead M.Reed, G.Robertson (on sight)2000 21 April Stealeye Span G.Robertson, J.Currie (on sight)2000 21 April Jason’s Follie G.Robertson, J.Currie, A.Liversedge (on

sight)2000 21 April Treasure Hunt G.Robertson, J.Currie, A.Livereadge (on

sight)2000 21 April Fall of Adam A.Liversedge, G.Robertson, J.Currie (on

sight, 1 fall/yo-yo)2000 21 April The Essential M.Reed, N.Anderson (on sight)2000 21 April Shapeshifter M.Reed, G.Robertson (on sight)2000 22 April Senakot Rose M.Reed, G.Robertson, J.Currie (on sight)2000 22 April The Oasis J.Currie, M.Reed, G.Robertson (on sight)2000 22 April The Wreck G.Robertson, J.Currie, M.Reed (on sight)2000 23 April Captain Thugwash G.Robertson, J.Currie (on sight)2000 23 April Heartyfartblast M.Reed, J.Currie, G.Robertson (on sight)2000 30 April Cocaine G.Robertson, J.Currie (on sight, 1 rest)2000 30 April Half Hearted M.Reed, T.Rankin (on sight)2000 30 April Lonely Heart M.Reed, T.Rankin (on sight)2000 30 April Silence of the Lambs T.Rankin, M.Reed (on sight)2000 2 May Three of Hearts M.Reed, G.Robertson (on sight)2000 2 May Speed T.Rankin, P.Benson, M.Reed (on sight)2000 2 May Blaster Bates T.Rankin, P.Benson (on sight)2000 3 May Heartbreaker M.Reed, J.Currie (on sight)2000 4 May Raining Roses M.Reed, T.Rankin (on sight)2000 4 May Coming up Roses M.Reed, T.Rankin (on sight)2000 4 May Unfinished Monkey Business T.Rankin, M.Reed, (on sight)2000 4 May Path Crab T.Rankin, M.Reed (on sight)2000 4 May Tango on the Black T.Rankin, M.Reed (on sight)2000 7 May Heart of Stone M.Reed, D.Hainsworth (on sight)2000 10 May Living Through the Lambada T.Rankin, M.Reed (cleaned on abseil)2000 10 May No More Mamba T.Rankin, M.Reed (cleaned on abseil)2000 10 May Black and Tan M.Reed, T.Rankin2000 12 May Water Torture M.Reed, T.Rankin (on sight)2000 12 May Blood from a Stone T.Rankin, M.Reed (on sight)2000 12 May Falling for Ewe M.Reed, T.Rankin (on sight)2000 21 May Yakattack S.Muir, C.Williams2000 21 May X-Factor N.Everett, H.Watson2000 21 May The Slant N.Everett, H.Watson2000 21 May Daisy Chain N.Everett, H.Watson2000 24 May The Great Escape P.Mather, D.Shaw2000 24 May Spinning Nun P.Mather, D.Shaw2000 24 May Jellyactrick D.Shaw, P.Mather2000 24 May Flowerpot Wall P.Mather, D.Shaw

2000 24 May Unnamed (chimney groove right of Panda’s Paw)

D.Shaw (solo)

2000 30 May Irony N.Everett, S.Muir2000 30 May Iron Wall N.Everett, S.Muir2000 30 May Pharoldwaytogo S.Muir, N.Everett2000 30 May The Dromedary N.Everett, S.Muir2000 30 May Giza Job S.Muir, N.Everett2000 May Free Range W.Moir, P.Allen, N.Ritchie (on sight)2000 3 June The Web M.Reed, N.Morrison (abseil inspection,

one fall/rest)2000 4 June J’Pud S.Muir, P.Mather, S.McCallum2000 4 June Hideous Kinky P.Mather2000 7 June Mono Polo Eyes M.Reed, S.Christie (on sight, two rests)

Climbed clean 15/6/00 M.Reed, D.Hainsworth

2000 9 June If... D.Shaw, P.Mather2000 9 June Porthole P.Mather, D.Shaw2000 9 June Exit Stage Left D.Shaw, P.Mather2000 9 June Tripper Trap P.Mather, D.Shaw2000 9 June Zebra in Red Stilettos P.Mather2000 15 June The Great Rift Valley S.Muir, N.Everett2000 15 June Me Sphinx it’s Easier Than it Looks S.Muir, N.Everett2000 15 June Poukahontas S.Muir, N.Everett2000 15 June Pouk in the Eye N.Everett, S.Muir2000 15 June Poukemon S.Muir, N.Everett2000 15 June Sharp Stick N.Everett, S.Muir2000 15 June Wobbit Crack N.Everett, S.Muir2000 25 June Black Magic P.Allen, W.Moir (on sight)2000 25 June Stone the Crows W.Moir, P.Allen (cleaned on abseil)2000 5 July Castaway S.Muir2000 5 July Wave Dance S.Muir2000 16 July J’care N.Everett, S.Muir, P.Mather2000 16 July J’ken P.Mather, N.Everett, S.Muir2000 16 July J’jug P.Mather, S.Muir, N.Everett2000 16 July Spacewalk N.Everett, P.Mather2000 16 July Spaceman P.Mather, N.Everett2000 16 July Aurora Borealis P.Mather, N.Everett2000 16 July Tiny S.Muir (solo)2000 16 July Titch S.Muir (solo)2000 20 July Unifying Theory P.Mather (solo)2000 20 July Old Fashioned Waltz N.Morrison, G.S.Strange (pre-cleaned)2000 5 August Joined at the Hip N.Morrison, G.S.Strange, W.Moir, P.Allen2000 6 August Channel Hopping S.Muir, H.Watson2000 6 August Written in Stone W.Moir, N.Morrison, G.S.Strange, P.Allen

(cleaned on abseil)2000 August Holy Rock Batman P.Mather, R.Paddon2000 August The Penguin P.Mather, R.Paddon2000 August Sparkly Thing P.Mather (solo after abseil inspection)2000 Rising Tramp C.Munro (solo on sight)2000 Speel C.Munro (solo on sight)2000 Daunder C.Munro (solo on sight)2000 Saunter C.Munro (solo on sight)2000 Traipse C.Munro (solo on sight)2000 Stone Cold M.Reed, T.Whitaker (pre-inspected)2001 20 May Yellow Peril S.Richardson, J.Ashbridge2001 The Orange Groove

Sixth Edition of the Guide published May 2003

2003 6 September Tombstone N.Morrison, W.Moir2007 2 July Shapeshifters Direct G.Lennox, E.Barber, A.Coull

NO/MISSING DETAILS:

John Wilson’s variation on Senakot Rose

THE DEESIDE CRAGS

1901 Cairngorm Club Crack W.Garden (top rope)pre-1907 Cave Crack Cairngorm Club party1919 No.2 Gully W.Garden, J.A.Parker, D.P.Levack,

J.R.Levack1919 South-Eastern Gully J.R.Levack and party1925 Micro Line J.R.Levack1925 Central Gully J.R.Levack and party1928 Cave Route W.Ewen and party1947 Platform Climb W.D.Brooker1948 Python Cracks W.D.Brooker and party1948 No.1 Chimney W.D.Brooker and party1948 Square Chimney W.D.Brooker and party1948 Window Gully W.D.Brooker and party1948 Outside Left W.D.Brooker1948 Inside Left W.D.Brooker1948 Eagle Buttress W.D.Brooker1960s Jam Crack1960s Rightguard1960s Swivel Head1960s BO1960s Jumbled Blocks Cracklate 1960s

Original Route D.Duncan and party

1967 17 September Giant Flake Route G.S.Strange, R.Simpson1967 17 September Sooty G.S.Strange, D.Mercer, R.Simpson1967 Convoy1970s Ping Pong1971 9 May Jackdaw Groove D.Stuart, G.S.Strange1971 June Black Custard J.Mothersele, M.Freeman1971 6 June Razor’s Crack G.S.Strange, D.Stuart1971 6 June After Shave D.Stuart, G.S.Strange1971 6 June Lime Chimney D.Stuart, G.S.Strange1971 6 June Lucky Strike M.Freeman, G.S.Strange, D.Stuart,

R.Simpson1971 6 June Mandrax (by top corner of The Splits) G.S.Strange, D.Stuart1971 Medium Cool B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1972 15 October Pink Wall G.S.Strange, C.Anderson1975 June Right-Hand Crack S.Falconer and party1975 June Left-Hand Crack S.Falconer and party1975 24 August Little Cenotaph G.Muhlemann, G.S.Strange,

R.J.Archbold(aided in 1960’s)

1976 June Isolation R.Robb, M.Tough1976 July Blutered D.Wright, A.Higham, G.Muhlemann1977 May Crumbling Dice M.McDonald, A.Nisbet1977 Peel’s Wall J.Peel, A.Barley1977 Barley’s Eliminate J.Peel, A.Barley1978 Man Eater D.Renshaw, D.Dinwoodie, M.Ross?1978 Gnasher D.Dinwoodie1978 Rough Rider D.Dinwoodie1979 4 August Fingerwrecker B.Lawrie, G.S.Strange1980s Roses1980 April Scary Monsters N.Smith, N.NcNeil, A.Ross1980 April Creak and Squeak I.Duckworth (solo)?1980 June Anger and Lust FFA: R.A.Smith, A.Williams

originally aided in 1971 by M.Freeman and D.Dinwoodie

1980 August High Steppa B.Sprunt, M.McDonald (both led)1980 August Strawberry Ripple B.Lawrie, G.Reilly, G.Stephen1980 31 August Viper Cracks R.J.Archbold, G.S.Strange1980 Pretzel Logic

(top corner previously climbed by A.Barley and J.Peel in 1977)

M.McDonald, B.Sprunt

1980 Hangover Wall A.Nisbet, B.Lawrie

1980 Rock ‘n’ Roll1981 19 July Bogendreip Buttress B.Sprunt, G.S.Strange, M.Freeman,

D.Dinwoodie1981 19 July Crack o’ the Mearns G.S.Strange, M.Freeman, C.Jamieson1981 July Rattlesnake D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1981 August Stinker B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1981 August Slender Loris B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1981 August Eek D.Dinwoodie, B.Lawrie1981 Twinkletoes R.A.Smith1981 Twilight Zone M.McDonald1981 Silver Rib M.McDonald1981 Bolero D.Dinwoodie, R.A.Smith1981 Flypaper1981 Outline1981 Shivers1981 Backwoodsman D.Dinwoodie, S.Rae1982 May Jings A.Ross, D.Dinwoodie1982 May Crivvens D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross (solo)1982 June Flibbertigibbet E.Todd (solo)1982 June Brut D.Dinwoodie, A.McIvor1982 June Cowardie-Custard A.Ross, D.Dinwoodie1982 June Fungus Face D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1982 June Bluter Groove M.Hamilton, P.Whillance, R.Anderson1982 July Green Laughter B.Lawrie, A.Ross1982 July Green Wall B.Lawrie, A.Ross1982 July Swine Before Pearls E.Todd, B.Lawrie, A.Ross1982 July Close Shave B.Lawrie, E.Todd, A.Ross1982 July The Glaswegian Problem J.Cunningham (solo)1982 July Hairy Baboon B.Lawrie, C.MacLean, D.Dinwoodie1982 August Press Up J.Cunningham, A.Ross (solo)1982 September First Slip A.Ross, P.Garden1982 September Supercreeps A.Ross, P.Garden1982 September Silent Spring A.Ross, P.Garden1982 Erk D.Dinwoodie1982 Yikes1982 Stuffer1982 Micro Rib1982 Flip Flop C.MacLean?1982 Keepy Uppy B.Lawrie, D.Dinwoodie1982 Fissure Feugh1982 Wild Thing B.Lawrie (solo)1982 Run Rabbit Run D.Dinwoodie1983 May The Splits B.Lawrie, R.A.Smith1983 Pretzel Logic, Direct Start1983 Scary Monsters, Variation Finish A.Ross, C.Ord1983 Smith’s Arete R.A.Smith1983 The Dance of the Wu-Li Masters A.Ross1983 Cold Rage FFA D.Dinwoodie, C.MacLean1983 Lech Gates D.Dinwoodie, G.Livingston

Fourth Edition of Guide published early 1984

1984 Wrecker’s Traverse A.Ross, N.Morrison, G.Reilly1984 Cheap Trick A.Ross, N.Morrison (1 rest)

FFA G.Livingston 1984 The Wiry Masters C.Jamieson (solo)1984 Tough’s Brush C.Jamieson, G.Livingston1984 Snowflakes G.Livingston (solo)1984 Captain Copout G.Livingston, C.Jamieson1984 The Dance of the Wu-Li Masters,

Direct FinishB.Lawrie, N.Morrison

1984 Bluter Crack FFA: G.Livingston(originally aided in 1965 by J.McArtney, D.Pyper and A.Corbett)

1984 Back Slider N.Morrison, A.Ross (pre-cleaned)1984 Plane Slider A.Ross1985 4 April Demon Drink D.Dinwoodie1985 7 April Doctor Dipso D.Dinwoodie

1985 April Drambo D.Dinwoodie, A.Ross1985 June Alcoholics Anonymous A.Ross, I.Davidson1985 October Anger and Lust, Right Hand Finish FFA: D.Dinwoodie, W.Taylor

(originally aided by M.Freeman, D.Dinwoodie 9 May 1971)

1985 12 October Silent Spring, Direct Start (centre) A.Nisbet, G.S.Strange1985 The Joke G.Livingston, G.Hadwin1985 Jackdaw’s Edge G.Livingston, G.Hadwin1985 Silent Spring, Direct Start (left) A.Ross, I.Davidson1985 Stoned Immaculate G.Livingston1985 Larup Head G.Livingston, C.Jamieson1985 Glue Sniffer G.Livingston (solo)1985 Fat Doris A.Ross (pre-practiced)1986 27 June Snotty Wotty C.Forrest, W.Taylor1986 July Dod’s Dead Cat E.Todd, R.Patterson1986 September Slope Arms W.Todd, G.Livingston1986 September The Terrorist W.Todd1986 General Anaesthetic G.Livingston (A.Ross direct?)1986 Distemper G.Livingston, W.Todd1986 Hot Temper W.Todd, G.Livingston1987 Skidmarks C.Cassidy1987 18 January Cave Route G.Livingston, G.S.Strange, C.Henderson1987 May Copulation W.Todd1987 July Lech Gates, Direct Start D.Dinwoodie1987 The Dance of the Wu-Li Masters,

Right Hand FinishA.Ross (solo)

1987 Private Parts A.Ross, C.Stewart1987 Cold Rage, Direct Start W.Todd1987 Orage W.Todd, S.Clarke1987 Chopped P.O.R.G. I.Davidson, P.Stewart, A.Ross, C.Forrest,

G.Reilly1987 Help M’ Bob A.Ross (led after toproping)1987 Black Tail A.Ross (solo)1987 Check the Divot A.Ross (solo)1987 Feeling Shattered A.Ross, I.Davidson, N.Morrison1987 Dark Klepht A.Ross, I.Davidson1987 Hare Lip C.Stewart, I.Davidson, A.Ross1987 New Gold Dreams A.Ross, I.Davidson, C.Stewart1987 Crystal Hunter I.Davidson, A.Ross, G.Reilly?1987 Fall Gold I.Davidson, A.Ross (alt leads)1987 Dwarves’ Nightmare A.Ross, I.Davidson, C.Stewart1987 Beechgrove Corner I.Davidson, P.Stewart, A.Ross1987 Agent Orange A.Ross, I.Davidson, P.Stewart1987 Pannanich Gully1987 Wondrous Stories C.Forrest, A.Ross (alt leads)1987 The Navigator P.Stewart, I.Davidson, A.Ross1987 Cool as a Cat C.Forrest, C.Stewart

This and the following route climbed on the same day

1987 Freebird C.Forrest, C.Stewart1987 German Holidays C.Forrest, A.Ross1987 Flush With Pride C.Forrest, A.Ross1987 Pannanich Wall C.Forrest, A.Ross1987 The Grateful Dead A.Ross1987 Fungus the Bogeyman A.Ross, P.Stewart, I.Davidson, B.Lawrie1988 9 August Saruman (done before?) P.Allen, D.Hanton1988 Ton-Ton Macoute A.Ross, M.Sutherland1988 Black Custard, Variation B.Davison, A.Nisbet1988 Bottle of Smoke W.Moir, N.Morrison1988 The Tink A.Ross, M.Sutherland1988 Gardener’s World A.Ross (solo)1988 Jim ‘n’ George A.Ross (solo)1988 Wondrous Stories, Variation Finish A.Ross, C.Stewart1988 Top Cat A.Ross, C.Stewart1988 Hot Dog C.Stewart, A.Ross, M.Sutherland1988 English Tactics I.Davidson, A.Ross1988 Atropine Blackout I.Davidson, P.Stewart, A.Ross, C.Stewart

1988 ‘S Not On A.Ross1988 Chewing the Bogie A.Ross (solo)1988 Snotland C.Stewart, A.Ross I.Davidson, P.Stewart1988 Proboscal Excavation (Crag X, not in

current guide)A.Ross

1988 ‘S Not Again A.Ross, I.Davidson, M.Sutherland1988 Digital Extraction M.Sutherland, A.Ross1988 No Angel I.Davidson, P.Stewart, C.Stewart, A.Ross1988 Scuffer I.Davidson, A.Ross, C.Stewart1988 Boulder Problem C.Stewart, A.Ross (yo-yoed)

after bolting, N.Morrison 29/8/931988 No Rest for the Wicked A.Ross, C.Stewart (yo-yoed)1988 Idiot Savant A.Ross, C.Stewart (yo-yoed)

Later retro-bolted1988 Catwalk C.Stewart, I.Davidson, P.Stewart, A.Ross1988 Mannequin C.Stewart, A.Ross, I.Davidson1988 Hostile Bid I.Davidson, C.Robinson1988 Street Life I.Davidson, C.Stewart, P.Stewart, A.Ross1988 Deathwish 1 A.Ross, I.Davidson, C.Stewart, P.Stewart1988 A Walk in the Wasteland I.Davidson, P.Stewart, C.Stewart,

M.Sutherland1988 Sharp Practice I.Davidson, A.Ross, C.Stewart1988 Urban Decay I.Davidson, C.Stewart, A.Ross1988 Quality Street C.Stewart, I.Davidson1989 14 May Liquid Nerve J.Lines, M.Francis, S.Bally1989 Sgoiltean na Lamhan Fuilteach A.Ross, I.Davidson1989 Blawearie’s Secret I.Davidson, A.Ross1989 Solus’s na h-Uamhan M.Sutherland, A.Ross1989 Hell’s Bells A.Ross, M.Sutherland1989 Hell Cat A.Ross, S.Fraser1989 Outside Right A.Ross1989 Outside Right, Direct Finish A.Ross (solo)1989 Vimy Ridge I.Davidson, R.Cookson1989 Aid My Robert1989 The Tramp A.Ross (solo)1990 22 April Art of Dance (mentioned in current

guide without being named)J.Lines, D.Peggler, D.Roberts

1990 29 April Slowly Burning J.Lines, M.Francis1990 29 April Wiry Mistress J.Lines (solo) (climbed before?)1990 May The Black Slab (Anguston Quarry) S.A.Stronach (solo)1990 11 June Mad Medics (Anguston Quarry) J.Lines (solo)1990 11 June Loo the Poo (Anguston Quarry) J.Lines (solo)1990 Janus A.Ross, M.Sutherland

Fifth Edition of Guide published early 1994

1993 September Technical Merit J.Wilson1993 26 September Wind in the Willows J.Wilson1993 28 September Indian Summer J.Wilson1993 27 December Platform Climb winter variations S.A.Stronach, H.F.W.Taylor1993 Welcome to the Working Weak G.Ridge, J.Horrocks (redpointed)1993 Bonsai G.Ridge, N.Shepherd1993 Wimpey Construction J.Wilson1993 Viral Infection N.Morrison1993 Stump N.Morrison1993 Nellie and Dod’s Day Out G.Ridge

Now out of bounds1993 The Runnel G.Ridge

Now out of bounds1993 Spike Island G.Ridge

Now out of bounds1993 Whippersnapper N.Shepherd

Now out of bounds1993 Boy ‘n the Hood N.Shepherd

Now out of bounds1993 The ‘Herd Instinct N.Shepherd

Now out of bounds1993 Edgelands N.Morrison (redpointed)

1994 August Slip of Death K.Smith, D.Laing, J.Mackie1994 August Death Wish 2 K.Smith, D.Laing, J.Mackie1994 August Suicide Bat K.Smith, D.Laing, J.Mackie1994 August Pinball Wizard K.Smith, D.Laing, J.Mackie1994 August Magic Bus K.Smith, D.Laing, J.Mackie1994 August Anyway, Anyhow, Anywhere K.Smith, D.Laing, J.Mackie1994 August Sticks 'n' Stones N.Morrison (redpointed)1994 August Sun City N.Morrison (redpointed)1994 August Tornado of Souls N.Shepherd (redpointed)1994 August Crimptest N.Morrison

Now out of bounds1994 Heinous de Milo N.Shepherd (redpointed)1994 Get Into Gear1996 31 August Sunset Rib R.Crabb, D.Adam1996 Dinnet Do It N.Shepherd (redpointed)1997? Silver Rib, Direct Start B.Strachan, G.Campbell1998 10 May Juniper Crush I.Fisher, G.Robertson (pre-practised)1998 23 September Right Hand Crack, Left Hand Finish J.Duncan, J.Elmslie1999 1 May Peel’s Wall, Right Hand Finish N.Morrison (top-roped prior to first

ascent)1999 15 May Bug Eyes N.Morrison, J.Wilson, P.Allen (cleaned

and pre-inspected)2001 21 April Hownlichenit T.Rankin, G.Lennox

Sixth Edition of the Guide published May 2003

2003 2 March Scottish Tactics T.Rankin, P.Benson2003 12 March Glen Dye Slab J.Lines2003 16 June Razorback S.A.Stronach, D.Giulianotti (on sight)2004 12 September Idiot Nation A.Robertson, R.Goolden2005 2 July Cavemen Go Clubbing A.Robertson (unsec)2005 30 July She's Not So Special A.Robertson (back-roped)2005 24 August Dod's Dead Cat, Variation Finish A.Robertson, A.Robertson2006 11 March No 2 Gully I.Munro

NO/MISSING DETAILS:

Clach Na BeinnStrikerInside RightPink Slab VariationFlakesvilleFlakemania

Pass of BallaterSilent Spring, Variation Finish – N.Morrison (no date)Corvid’s Chimney

An Cadha DubhToy CrackDirty ThingRun Rabbit Run, Direct Start

Cambus O’ MayMay FlyOn the Loose Again

GLEN CLOVA

1911 Pinnacle Ridge (Craig Maud) H.G.Drummond, H.Alexander1934 Diagonal Crack R.Scott, J.Beedie1938 July Three J's Chimney J.Scott, J.Scroggie, J.Ferguson1939 March Twenty Minute Route J.Nisbet, J.Ferguson1939 August Flake Route W.H.Ward, J.Ferguson

Originally called Ward’s Wall1939 Hanging Chimney W.H.Ward, J.Ferguson1940 September Parapet Route G.S.Ritchie, J.Ferguson1948 3 October Gimcrack Gully K.Wirnam, J.Tewnion, A.Russell1950s Jake's Jungle Route J.Ellis1950s Special Brew G.Malloch (sling for aid)

FFA G.Reilly, I.Reilly 1975/76)1950s Ant Slab1950s Larch Tree Wall1950s Middleton's Traverse1950s Proud Corner G.Malloch1950s Central Crack G.Malloch and party1950 April High Level Traverse and Direct Finish D.Thomas, J.Flemming, G.B.Leslie1951 Alder D.Brown1953 W+S Chimney D.Walt, I.Sutherland1954 The Beanstalk T.W.Patey1954 Monster's Crack A.Mitchell1955 August The Beanstalk, Dander Finish W.K.Divers, K.A.Sturrock1957 June Wander W.K.Divers, K.A.Sturrock (pegs for aid)1957 June Zigzag W.K.Divers, K.A.Sturrock (pegs for aid)1958 Guinness F.Old, G.Malloch, F.Anderson,

A.Ferguson (2 bolts for aid)(FFA G.Reilly, I.Reilly 1976)Rumoured to have been so named because one of the seconds couldn’t reach the starting holds and so had to geta boost from a six pack of Guinness.

Early 1960s

Zigzag Direct D.Lang (aid)(FFA S.Scott, I.Reilly 1974)

Early 1960s

Trapeze

1960s Guinness Variation Finish 1 M.Hendry (aid?)1960s Gander1962 Upper Parapet1964 Roman Candle D.Crabbe, J.Howe, D.Lang (aid)

(FFA M.Hamilton, D.McCallum, R.Anderson 1983 (on sight))

1971 8 May Rander A.Moore, C.Norris1971 8 May Gotae Grooves C.Norris, A.Moore1972 6 August Vindaloo J.Thompson, J.Cadger

6 pegs, 3 bolts, 1 RURP and 1 nut for aid!(FFA 1984 – lower slab by A.Ross/1986 –direct finish by S.Stewart)

1974 7 April Beanstalk, Direct Finish D.Dinwoodie1976 Guinness Variation Finish 2 P.Standing, R.Tait1976 Heinekin P.Standing, R.Tait1976 Cream Cracker D.Myatt, C.Robinson (aid)

FFA N.Sharpe 19851976 Witches Tooth FFA M.Hamilton, D.Brown1976 The Red Wall FFA M.Hamilton, D.Brown

(previsouly aided by B.Forbes, late 1950s)

1982 19 May Power To Burn N.Shepherd, K.EdwardsSame as Pothole (popularly assumed to be the wall left of 3J’s Chimney)?

1982 18 July Wandered N.Shepherd, G. Clarke alt 1982 Puddin' Fingers A.Thomson, I.Shepherd (3 points of aid)

(FFA G.Ettle, G.Farquhar, S.Stewart

1985)1983 21 June Roslin Riviera M.Hamilton, G.S.Strange1983 July Ladies of the Canyon K.Spence, M.Hamilton1983 14 July Cauldron Crack N.Shepherd, C.Adam1983 14 July Wizard's Wall C.Adam, N.Shepherd1983 Mearns Wall M.Hamilton, J.Mackenzie

Fourth Edition of Guide published early 1984

1984 9 June Taken by Force N.Shepherd, G.Woodfine1984 Solution Socket A.Ross, G.Reilly1985 June Witches Tooth variation G.Woodfine, N.Shepherd

graded tentatively E3 6a1985 2 June Solar Wind C.Flewett, N.Shepherd1985 2 June Summer's Over N.Shepherd, C.Flewett, K.Clarke1985 4 June Just Another Sparkler M.Hamilton, N.Shepherd1985 August Rocketman S.Stewart, G.Farquhar1985 September Zigzag Double Direct S.Stewart, G.Farquhar, (first pitch first

climbed 1972 by M Tighe and party)1985 October Mandy N.Shepherd, G.Woodfine1985 November Halloween N.Shepherd (solo after abseil inspection)1985 Koflach Corner C.Smith (aka Koflach), G.Woodfine?

N.Shepherd thinks it took a corner left of Mandy but he can’t be 100% certain

1985 Ally's Crack Colin Smith, K.Clarke, G.Ettle1985 Guinless S.Stewart, G.Farquhar1985 Special Brew Direct N.Sharpe, G.Ettle1985 Jungle Warfare G.Reilly, A.Ross, F.Templeton1985 Pocketeer N.Morrison, A.Ross1985 Centipod A.Ross, N.Morrison1985 Taken With Ease1985 The Sorcerer C.MacLean, G.Reilly1985 The Sorcerer's Apprentice C.MacLean, G.Reilly1985 Kremlin Control G.Reilly, A.Ross

(top pitch recorded as variation to Alder by D.F.Lang, 1968)

1985 Black Adder D.Dinwoodie (on sight)1985 Pothole A.Ross, B.Lawrie1986 Easter Agrajaz C.Cracknell (top roped prior to lead)1986 June Kremlin Control, Direct Start S.Stewart, C.Smith1986 June Carn Dearg Corner S.Stewart, G.Ettle1986 July Sun Goes Down S.Stewart, C.Smith1986 July Jailbreak S.Stewart, L.Delaney1986 July Pothole Direct S.Stewart, L.Delaney

HVS 5b, Pothole was probably first climbed in 1982 as Power to Burn

1986 August Belhaven S.Stewart, G.Ettle1986 August 999 S.Stewart, L.Delaney1986 August Monster Munch S.Stewart, C.Smith1986 August The Spider S.Stewart, C.Smith, L.Delaney1986 10 August The Wildebeast N.Shepherd, K.Clarke1986 23 August West Side Story G.Ettle, S.Stewart1986 31 August The Headless Codpiece G.Farquhar, G.Ettle

30m HVS 5aCorner system on r side of Central Crag. Quite dirty and a bit loose.

1986 22 September Empire of the Sun D.Dinwoodie, J.Hall1986 11 October Rhiannon D.Dinwoodie, G.S.Strange1986 29 November Elliptical Dreams G.Ettle, B.Strachan1986 The Thin Wall S.Stewart, C.Smith1986 Four Corners Route S.Stewart, C.Smith1986 Guinness Exit Stage Left1986 The Pub Crawl G.Farquhar, S.Stewart1986 Ent Moot G.Farquhar, A.Wood1986 Headspread C.Cracknell, S.Stewart, C.Smith (top

roped first)1986 The Catwalk C.Cracknell, S.Stewart1986 The Slicer S.Stewart, C.Cracknell, C.Smith

1986 The Grater S.Stewart, C.Smith1986 Fastbreeder S.Stewart, G.Ettle, C.Smith, C.Cracknell1986 The Making of Bunny C.Smith, S.Stewart1986 Dancin' in the Ruins S.Stewart, C.Cracknell1986 The Return of the Living Dead G. Farquhar, G.Ettle1986 Clairvoyant Reality B.Lawrie1986 Unnamed (Altduthrie slabs) A.Thomson, I.Shepherd1986 Unnamed (Altduthrie slabs) A.Thomson, I.Shepherd1987 Feb Ion Drive S.Stewart, C.Smith1987 Feb Sidestep S.Stewart, J.Robinson1987 March Snowplough J.Robinson, S.Stewart1987 March Clothhead J.Robinson, S.Stewart1987 March Blockhead J.Robinson, S.Stewart1987 March Jug Wall

Right hand finish by S.Stewart, D.Strouts March 1987

S.Stewart, P.Eden

1987 April Granite Heids D.Dinwoodie, A.Gunn1987 17 May DRI G.Ettle, G.Farquhar (top roped then led,

runners pre-placed)1987 26-27

SeptemberThe Magical Mystery Tour G.Farquhar, G.Ettle

1987 27 September Plonker's Passage G.Farquhar, G.Ettle1987 27 September The Girdle (South East Crag) G.Farquhar, G.Ettle1987 30 September The Cold War G.Farquhar, S.Stewart1987 September Henry's Cat S.Stewart, C.Smith1987 September Green Bunny S.Stewart, C.Smith1987 September Green Shield S.Stewart, C.Smith1987 1 October Fawlty Towers G.Farquhar, S.Stewart1987 1 October The Supernatural Anaesthetist G.Farquhar, S.Stewart1987 1 October Catbird S.Stewart, G.Farquhar1987 4 October Cinderella G.Ettle (1 rest point)

FFA G.Latter, K.Howett July 1988 yo-yoed

1987 The Cosmic Pump S.Stewart, J.Robinson1987 Shadow on the Wall S.Stewart, J.Dix1987 Chitteroo S.Stewart, C.Ravey1988 27 February Special Brew, The Furstenberg Finish G.Farquhar, S.Stewart1988 13 March The Whoremistress G.Farquhar1988 10 September Taste Me! G.Farquhar, M.MacGowan (on sight)1988 Lichen Groove1988 Wee Slab S.Stewart1988 Pickpocket S.Stewart, C.Smith1988 Arachnid S.Stewart, C.Smith1988 Grunt S.Stewart, C.Smith1988 Geotechnician S.Stewart, C.Smith1989 6 May The Flying Cabbage Heads S.Cameron, B.Strachan (top roped then

led)1989 Overhanging Coroner S.Cameron, G.Campbell1990 17 July A Vanishing Breed G.Farquhar, A.Collins1990 September Ride My Face to Chicago G.Farquhar, C.Carolan (on sight)1990 13 October Scoopy Doo G.Farquhar, C.Carolan1990 Belhaven, Stella Variation

Fifth Edition of Guide published early 1994

1995 4 July Time’s Arrow G.Farquhar, C.Carolan1996 15 September Fool’s Edge S.Richardson, J.Ashbridge1997 25 May Alcopops S.Richardson, J.Ashbridge1997 20 September Incarceration B.Strachan, G.Campbell1997 31 August unnamed (Maud Buttress) S.Richardson, K.Milne2000 A Dog Called Dan2000 San’s Burst Bike2001 13 May Bon Anniversaire S.Richardson, J.Ashbridge

Sixth Edition of the Guide published May 2003

2004 6 June Special Brew, Death Niche Finish I.Small, S.Campbell, C.Cartwright2004 31 Oct Cheesy Wotsit S.A.Stronach (solo)2005 31 March Puffin Bear S.Holmes, I.Clifton

NO/MISSING DETAILS:

The DoonieHeinekin, Direct VariationExportWitches' MateElephant’s SlabCornfoot’s CornerMewat’s Renege

Lower North West CragJohnny Milne's CrackBrenge WallThe Catwalk (Lower North-west Crag)Rowantree Wall

South East CragParapet Route Direct StartParapet Route VariationComes the Squirmish G.Farquhar, Anna Wood (on sight) – no date

ANGUS

1970s Ego Trip Royal Marines from HMS CondorProbably climbed Plod, Grot and Choss at the same time

1970s Plod1970s Deils Head Route Royal Marines from HMS Condor

May not have been the first ascentLate1970s

Balmashanner Buttress Forfar localsThe first route to venture into the right-hand area of the quarry

Early1980s

Suspended

Early1980s

Fishingnet

Early1980s

La Rete

1980 Wall of Hate N.Shepherd (solo)Bolted and led as a sport climb by N.Shepherd, G.Ridge 14 October 1995

1980 Meaty Hefts1980 The Tower Traverse1981 20 June Night-time Sorrows N.Shepherd, D.Mckelvie1981 Purple Haze D.Mckelvie, N.Shepherd

The first new route in the heart of Legaston quarry

1981 Flaked Out N.Shepherd (solo after top rope practise)Bolted and led as a sport climb by N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd 5 June 1995

1981 First Night Nerves N.Shepherd (solo after top-rope practise)Bolted and led as a sport climb by N.Shepherd, G.Ridge 14 October 1995

1982 13 April Crowbar Crack N.Shepherd, K.EdwardsThe first time a crowbar had been wielded to clean off the loose rock

1982 September Flightpath N.Shepherd, K.EdwardsOriginally had a peg runner which pulled out during a fall on the first attempt. Climbed without the peg after a few minutes to calm down

1982 Virgin Crack Royal MarinesAlso claimed Purple Haze and Night-timeSorrows at the same time, not realising they had already been climbed the previous year

1982 Happy Days Royal Marines1982 The Rocking Stone Royal Marines

Originally 1 peg runner1982 The Head Royal Marines

The race for lines between the squaddiesand the local youths had sunk to new depths with the ascent of this route

1982 Staircase A Royal MarinesAlso added the direct with Staircase B. One joint peg protected both lines

1982 Stag Night N.Shepherd (solo after top rope practise)Bolted and led as a sport climb by N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd 5 June 1995

1982 Road Rage N.Shepherd (solo after top rope practise)Bolted and led as a sport climb by N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd 5 June 1995

1983 11 June Armygeddon N.Shepherd, M.CameronThe original sport route, it had three pegswhich were stolen in the mid 80s. Re-equipped with bolts in 1999

1983 18 June Fire at Will N.Shepherd, M.Cameron, Anon marine

Rivalry between the two factions was now appearing in the route names

1983 9 July Shoot to Kill N.Shepherd, M.CameronOriginally protected by 1 peg

1983 10 September Rootworks M.Cameron, N.Shepherd1983 10 September Capricia K.Spierling, C.Hine

New faces were beginning to visit Legaston and members of D.U.R.C. started to do new routes

1983 10 September Winky C.Hine, K.SpierlingReputedly named after the first ascentionists “wee willie”

1983 Seaside Special1983 Original Route1983 Direct Start1984 29 February Driller Killer N.Shepherd, G.Woodfine

The first bolt was placed at the end of 1983 but the actual ascent had to wait forearly 1984. The start of the Legaston’s “Golden Year”

1984 February Seconds Out G.Woodfine, N.Shepherd1984 3 March Sweet Revenge G.Woodfine, N.Shepherd

2 pegs1984 11 April Flight of the Mad Magician N.Shepherd, G.Laybourne, D.Mckelvie,

M.CameronOriginally climbed as a trad. companion to Driller Killer

1984 15 April Desperate Measures N.Shepherd, M.Cameron1984 7 June Bomber N.Shepherd, M.Cameron, G.Woodfine

Originally protected by one peg, it was a serious undertaking

1984 23 June Overkill N.Shepherd, L.BrandieTwo bolts in this route meant sport climbing had truly arrived in Angus

1984 5 July Playing With Fire N.Shepherd, M.Cameron1984 25 July Between the Lines N.Sharpe

Re-equipped and reclimbed later by N.ShepherdA heavily condemned route at the time due to the questionable first ascent tactics. Waited several years to be cleaned properly and to achieve the popularity it now enjoys

1984 27 July Ratbag C.FlewettOriginally protected by two pegs

1984 July First to Fall N.SharpeReclimbed without pre-placed protection in 1987 by N.Shepherd. Retro-bolted around 1991Another route which achieved notoriety rather than notice. Pre-clipped ropes intohigh peg runners were among the tactics apparently used on the first ascent. The pegs were then removed after the ascent and not declared

1984 5 August Contraflow N.Shepherd, M.Cameron1984 7 August Death is the Hunter N.Shepherd, B.Tilley, M.Cameron

An old coach bolt and a peg originally protected the route

1984 8 August Nymphocyte N.Shepherd, G.Woodfine, M.Cameron1984 9 August Kiss of Death M.Cameron, N.Shepherd

If there was ever such a thing as “overnaming”, this was surely it!

1984 9 August Walking the Straight Line N.Shepherd, M.Cameron1984 19 August Gary’s Route G.Adam1984 August The Rack B.Tilley1984 September Sign of the Scorpion N.Shepherd, M.Cameron

Rarely dry and stolen by mistake (BIG mistake!) from Brian Tilley after he had spent ages cleaning it up. Luckily, he was ok about it, after a suitable amount of grovelling!

1985 March Killing Fields B.Tilley, T.Watson1985 14 April March of Dimes M.Cameron, N.Shepherd1985 12 May No Remorse N.Shepherd, M.Cameron1985 30 May Necrosis N.Shepherd, G.Woodfine, C.Flewett,

K.Clarke1985 May The Weasel K.Clarke, N.Shepherd1985 19 June Brian the Snail N.Shepherd, M.Cameron1985 2 July Brian the Snail Direct M.Cameron

Conceived originally as a top-rope problem. First led by N.Shepherd with bolt runner 19 May 1987

1985 16 July Lymphomaniac N.Shepherd, M.Cameron1985 17 July Les Morts Dansant N.Shepherd, M.Cameron

Originally protected by one peg runner1985 18 July Roxanne M.Cameron, N.Shepherd1985 3 August Exodus N.Shepherd, K.Clarke1986 May The Edge of Darkness N.Shepherd, R.Worth1986 21 July The Golden Shot N.Shepherd

Done with the direct start. Later, the more popular start off the ledge was added by K.Clarke

1986 18 August Remain in the Light called “Remain in Light” in the text

K.Clarke, N.Shepherd

1986 21 September Spandex Ballet N.ShepherdThe route of the crag. Originally, two pegs and two friends were the only protection. Later, the bolts were added togive a full sports route

1986 21 September Aerodynamic N.Shepherd1987 The Engine Driver1988 28 June Hell Bent for Lycra D.Douglas

Originally cleaned by R.Worth a couple ofyears before but abandoned. The first proper climb at Balmashanner by all of 5 minutes

1988 28 June Rat Attack N.ShepherdThe second route to tackle the main wall

1988 31 August Le Bon Vacance N.Shepherd1988 4 September Savage Amusement N.Shepherd

A big step forward in terms of difficulty forthe Angus area

1989 3 January Start the Fire N.ShepherdBalmashanner is cold in June so imagine how January feels!

1989 February Hunt the Ratbag M.BrightOriginally a bold lead

1989 15 April Mr Access N.Shepherd, D.Douglas1989 27 May Manifestations N.Shepherd

French 7b was now consolidated at Balmashanner

1989 29 June Delivery Man D.Douglas1989 3 July Digital Sclerosis D.Douglas

The longest route on the crag!1989 23 July Hells Bells J.Ross1990 5 November Gravity’s Rainbow Gravitys’ in the text G.Farquhar, S.Cameron (both led)

A new decade ushered in a new level of difficulty

1991 August The Niche S.CameronThe only route of the year but another huge advance from an exceptionally strong young climber

1992 February Junk Man Blues D.Johnston

1992 19 April Footfall N.Shepherd1992 21 April Nirvana G.Ridge

Showed the early quality of Ley1992 16 May Half the Battle N.Shepherd1992 17 May Nectar J.Horrocks1992 19 May Five Magics N.Shepherd

2nd and 3rd ascents the same day, the 3rd coming from a certain well known traditionalist, Kev Howett!

1992 13 June Not the Risk Business N.ShepherdDone on a weekend that was meant to bespent in Glencoe

1992 13 June Dropping Like Flies D.DouglasTypical of Dave, he hasn’t got a drill so he uses everyone else’s bolts!

1992 24 June The Comfort Machine N.Shepherd1992 2 July Essential Balmashanner N.Shepherd

So essential it’s probably never been repeated!

1992 27 July Merchant of Menace S.CameronA Tour de Force. Unrepeated except by the first ascentionist and probably still thehardest route in Scotland. Recently the scene of a major chipping incident, the extra holds have been filled in and the route returned to its original state

1993 4 April Darkmoon Rising N.Shepherd1993 6 April Drowning by Numbers G.Ridge1993 18 April Magic Pockets J.Ross

The most popular hard route at Ley1993 8 May Pit Bull N.Shepherd

Not a very apt name!1993 11 May Life’s a Beach G.Ridge

A very apt name!1994 30 April Holy Waters “Water” in the text G.Ridge

Named after someone was “baptised” in the pool!

1994 30 April Magic Thumb N.ShepherdStill the hardest move at Ley

1994 7 May Fat Man Starts to Fall N.Shepherd1994 8 May Declaration of Intent N.Shepherd, N.Morrison

The first sport route on the seacliffs. The name said it all.

1994 12 May Pool of Despair N.ShepherdIt is if you’re short

1994 June Scarred for Life G.Ridge1994 June Cat Scratch Fever G.Ridge1994 5 July Haul or Nothing N.Shepherd1994 26 July Direct Access N.Shepherd

A more direct and fully equipped version of the old route Mr Access

1994 August Twilight Zone G.Ridge1994 27 August April’s Arete N.Shepherd

For years, Scotland’s easiest sport route!1994 September Making the Grade G.Ridge

He could have made it easier!1994 September Climbers Wear Platforms G.Ridge, J.Horrocks1994 6 September Fishing for Compliments N.Shepherd

Unfortunately, none were caught!1994 18 September Rottweiller N.Shepherd1994 21 September Buoys of Summer N.Shepherd, G.Ridge1994 26 September Caught in the Act N.Shepherd

But what was the act?1994 1 October Traditional Imperfections N.Shepherd1994 8 October Towing the Line G.Ridge, N.Shepherd1994 9 October The Krab J.Ross, N.Shepherd, G.Ridge1994 9 October The E’Evil Dead N.Shepherd, G.Ridge, J.Ross

1994 9 October Pilgrims Progress G.Ridge, N.Shepherd1994 12 October Foundering on the Rocks of

ObsessionN.Shepherd, G.RidgeThe enthusiasm which was building up was unfortunately restricted by the arrivalof winter!

1995 4-5 March Smokies G.Ridge, J. HorrocksThe bottled up enthusiasm was let loose as soon as the sun came out.

1995 4-5 March Ride ‘em Cowboy G.Ridge, J. Horrocks1995 4-5 March Waves of Emotion G.Ridge, J. Horrocks1995 4-5 March Parsons Nose G.Ridge, J. Horrocks1995 4-5 March Caught Red-handed G.Ridge, J. Horrocks1995 2 April Silence of the Clams N.Shepherd, D.Douglas1995 2 April Swindlers List N.Shepherd, D.Douglas1995 11 April The Abbey Habit N.Shepherd, J.Ross1995 13 April Haarbinger N.Shepherd, J.Ross

First ascent was continually postponed due to sea fog!

1995 29 April Pringles Wave J.Ross, N.Shepherd1995 29 April Galley Slave N.Shepherd, J.Ross1995 April Trial by Dimension Not known

Climbed with side runners, the first ascentionist left bolts in Tiso’s with a polite request that they be put in by the spots he had marked with chalk on the route

1995 April Shore Beats Working G.Ridge, J.Horrocks1995 4 June Easy Ley N.Shepherd1995 5 June Strut yer Stuff N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd

This and the following two routes were top-rope problems from the early 1980’s.

1995 5 June Burning with Anxiety N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd1995 5 June Stuck in a Rut N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd1995 13 June The Peem Machine J.Ross, N.Shepherd

Named in honour of Jeff’s uncle “Peem”, who made the staple bending machine!

1995 13 June Curse of the Faeroes N.Shepherd, J.Ross1995 27 June Short Arms, Deep Pockets G.Ridge, J.Ross1995 27 June Concentration Cramp N.Shepherd, J.Ross1995 27 June Whale of a Time N.Shepherd, G.Ridge

Jeff Ross videoed the first ascent, then made the second ascent straight after.

1995 1 July Leyed to Rest N.Shepherd1995 29 July Sye of Relief N.Shepherd

A direct on the unforgettable gear route Rancid Hellspawn

1995 5 August Lost at Sea N.Shepherd, L.ShepherdThese two routes were named after Lanadropped the gri-gri into the sea

1995 5 August Rust in Peace N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd1995 10 August Stitch in Time N.Shepherd, D.Pert1995 12 August She Conceives Destruction G.Ridge1995 19 August Charred and Damned Desire N.Shepherd1995 30 August Made to Suffer N.Shepherd1995 September Vast Mango in Tardis J.Ross, G.Ridge1996 9 April Haven Fun N.Morrison, N.Shepherd1996 9 April A Close Shave N.Shepherd, N.Morrison1996 9 April Shaven Haven N.Shepherd, N.Morrison1996 22 April Haven Can’t Wait N.Shepherd, G.Ridge1996 22 April Don’t Bridget Neilson G.Ridge, N.Morrison1996 27 April Broad Side N.Shepherd, N.Morrison1996 27 April Gorgon N.Shepherd, N.Morrison1996 28 April Medusa J.Horrocks, G.Ridge1996 10 May Dread Knot N.Shepherd, G.Ridge1996 25 May Lost but not Least N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd1996 25 May Hanau’s Quint N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd1996 26 May Pulling Muscles From a Shell G.Ridge, N.Shepherd

1996 26 May The Grade Escape G.Ridge, N.Shepherd1996 2 June Sun Seeker J.Horrocks, G.Ridge1996 8 June The Lost in Line N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd1996 8 June Dark Sar-Chasm N.Shepherd, G.Ridge

George seconded barefoot as he had forgotten his boots!

1996 12 June In Too Deep G.Ridge, N.ShepherdPossible on some of these jugs!

1996 13 June The Jug of Jug Haul N.Shepherd, G.Ridge1996 13 June Heave Ho! N.Shepherd, G.Ridge1996 15 June Gruesome N.Shepherd, J.Horrocks1996 20 June Ain’t no Rolling Stone N.Shepherd1996 27 June Vulgar Display of Power N.Shepherd, J.Ross

Still the hardest route on the Arbroath seacliffs

1996 3 August The Mistic N.Shepherd, J.Horrocks1996 4 August Killer Wail G.Ridge, J.Horrocks1996 18 August Kiss of Doom N.Shepherd, J.Ross1996 22 August Lemon Squeezy D.Pert1996 25 August Everything Must Go N.Shepherd

And most of it did!1996 29 August Davids Route D.Pert, N.Shepherd1996 7 September Off the Couch N.Shepherd

Not recommended1996 7 September Sye’s Don’t Matter G.Ridge

Who says?1996 7 September Tales of Creation N.Shepherd1997 21 September Barging into the Presence of God N.Shepherd, N.Morrison

This and the following route were the onlydevelopments this year as George had discovered Weem!

1997 21 September The Red Lichtie N.Morrison, N.Shepherd1998 March Barrel of Laughs G.Ridge

This long term project changed hands several times, almost as often as the holds!

1998 10 July Putting Shame in Your Game G.RidgeThe end of an era?

1998 Pas de Charge1998 Seeing is not Believing1998 The ‘Herd Instinct1998 Big Lug1998 Viagra Falls1998 The X-Philes1998 Hanger 181998 Bodysnatcher1998 Shapeshifter1998/2000

Perts Buttock Upper section added in 2000

1998/1999

Smells Like Team Spirit Upper section added in 1999

1998 It’s a Route Jim!1998 Butt Ugly Martians1998 Right Wing Extremist1998 Pig on the Rig1998 The Beggars are Coming to Town1998 Hornblower1998 Whistleblower1999 Can’t See the F in Elephant Anywhere1999 Doigt Attack1999 Hannibal1999 Big Girls Blouse1999 Beware of the Wellyfish1999 Don’t Blame Me!2000 30 August The Big J N.Shepherd2000 30 August Demolition Man N.Shepherd2000 5 September Fire Down Below N.Shepherd

2000 7 September Rockets Secret Machine N.Shepherd2000 17 September The Hunting Swan N.Shepherd2000 The Ex-Pert Route2000 Mahoots Mon2000 It’s Not My Fault2001 11 April Steppe in the Right Direction N.Shepherd, G.Ridge2001 11 April Steppeladder N.Shepherd, G.Ridge

Not much bigger than one!2001 14 April Kazakhstani Castaway N.Shepherd, G.Ridge2001 14 April One Steppe Forward N.Shepherd, G.Ridge2001 14 April Two Steppes Back N.Shepherd, G.Ridge2001 5 May At the Crossroads of Destiny and

DesireN.Shepherd, N.MorrisonThe start of a determined clear up of old bolted lines.

2001 9 May Put Out to Grass N.Shepherd, G.Ridge2001 24 May Wicked Steppe Mother N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd2001 24 May Steppes Back in Amazement N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd2001 24 May High Stepper N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd2001 24 May Steppin’ Out N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd2001 29 May Welcome to the Steeeppes! N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd2001 3 June Impaled on the Horns of Indecision N.Shepherd, J.Wilson2001 19 July Cast Adrift on the Ocean of

UncertaintyN.Shepherd, D.Douglas

2001 22 July Diss! N.Shepherd (solo)2001 25 July Knockin’ on Havens Door N.Shepherd, J.Wilson

John made an impressive flashed secondascent the same day, just after repeating Vulgar Display of Power.

2001 31 July The Selfish Shellfish N.Shepherd, J.Ross2001 31 July Ukranian Mermaid J.Ross, N.Shepherd2001 31 July Screamin’ Demon J.Ross, N.Shepherd2001 July Alien Breed N.Shepherd2001 4 August Loony Tunes N.Shepherd, G.Ridge

The “Sector D’initiation”, long discussed, is finally brought to fruition. In some cases, the names are longer than the routes!

2001 4 August Fred Flintstone N.Shepherd, G.Ridge2001 4 August Disney Look Too Bad N.Shepherd, G.Ridge2001 4 August Cow and Chicken N.Shepherd, G.Ridge2001 4 August Top Cat N.Shepherd, G.Ridge2001 4 August A Grand Day Out G.Ridge, N.Shepherd2001 4 August The Wrong Trousers G.Ridge, N.Shepherd2001 4 August Pinky and the Brain N.Shepherd, G.Ridge2001 4 August 62 West Wallaby Street G.Ridge, N.Shepherd2001 5 August Take the Plunge N.Morrison, N.Shepherd

This and the following route were originally equipped in the mid-90s and the forgotten about!

2001 5 August In at the Deep End N.Shepherd, N.Morrison2001 5 August Parental Guidance N.Shepherd, N.Morrison2001 9 August Silver Surfer G.Ridge, N.Shepherd2001 9 August Be Calmed G.Ridge, N.Shepherd2001 12 August “O” Zone Slayer J.Ross, N.Shepherd2001 12 August Not for Children’s E’en N.Shepherd, N.Morrison

The adventurous approach through the Needle’s E’e adds to the experience.

2001 22 August The Pearls of Penelope Pitstop N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd2001 22 August Rugrats Revenge N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd2001 22 August Fantastic Four N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd2001 26 August Layin’ Down the Law N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd2001 26 August Pushin’ the Limpets N.Shepherd, L.Shepherd2001 2 September Fully Charged N.Shepherd, J.Ross

More old lines from the mid-90s finally got attention.

2001 2 September Haul Anchor N.Shepherd, J.Ross2001 6 September Artillery Arete N.Shepherd, J.Ross

2001 6 September Bringing Out the Big Guns N.Shepherd, J.Ross2001 28 October Ever Ready Arete N.Shepherd, J.Ross

Another long-bolted line.2001 Grounded

Sixth Edition of the Guide published May 2003

2003 13 July Ley Jungle N.Cole (rope soloed)2004 13 June Neptune's Kiss J.Ross2004 13 June Eight Year Itch N.Shepherd2004 19 June Diagon Alley J.Ross2004 26 June In With The In Crowd N.Shepherd, J.Ross2004 Swimming Against the Tide of

TraditionN.Shepherd

2005 99 Flake S.Muir (?)2005 Dennis the Mennace S.Muir (?)2005 Mini the Minx S.Muir (?)2005 Desperate Dan S.Muir (?)2005 Ice Scream Wall S.Muir (?)2005 The Balmashanner Bombshell S.Muir (?)2005 Rat Race Face S.Muir (?)2005 One Can Dan S.Muir (?)2005/06 Beyond the Call of Nature N.Shepherd2005/06 Going Through on Aggregate N.Shepherd2005/06 Power Flower S.Muir2005/06 High Voltage S.Muir2005/06 Clampdown S.Muir2005/06 Rock the ASBO S.Muir2005/06 Squeal Like a Piggy D.Armstrong2005/06 Happy Campers S.Muir2005/06 Italian Stallion S.Muir2005/06 Pick Me S.Muir2005/06 Pluck It S.Muir2005/06 Deliverance S.Muir2005/06 Strung Out S.Muir2005/06 Pitscandly Chainsaw Massacre N.Shepherd2005/06 No Respect For Your Elders N.Shepherd2005/06 Fretting Over Nothing N.Shepherd2005/06 Inheritance S.Muir2005/06 Jean Pull K.Edwards2005/06 Banjo Me K.Edwards2005/06 Gatecrashers Galore N.Shepherd2005/06 One Foot In The Door N.Shepherd2005/06 The Uninvited N.Shepherd2005/06 Welcome To The Big Pocket K.Edwards2005/06 Grasping The Nettle N.Shepherd2005/06 Trailer Trash N.Shepherd2005/06 Dennis Caravan N.Shepherd2006 28 August roof to left of Trailer Trash N.Shepherd2007 January Beat the Bulge K.Edwards2007 February Let There be Rock N.Shepherd2007 Unenforced Layoff D.Armstrong2007 Mushroom Heads N.Shepherd2007 Another Green World K.Edwards2007 Spirits Drifting K.Edwards2007 Becalmed K.Edwards2007 Sombre Reptiles K.Edwards2007 On the Up K.Edwards2007 Mound over Matter K.Edwards2007 Grassy Knoll K.Edwards2007 Hard Labour K.Edwards2007 Dogmatic K.Edwards2007 Paws for Thought K.Edwards2007 Thorny Issue K.Edwards2007 All Chalk, No Traction K.Edwards2007 Boarding Party K.Edwards2007 Dubh be Dubh K.Edwards2007 The Kirrie (Beach) Ball N.Shepherd

2007 Bon the Edge N.Shepherd2007 Whole Lotta Kirrie N.Shepherd2007 Black int' Back N.Shepherd2007 Screwless K.Henderson2007 Kirrie on Regardless G.Ridge2007 Spent G.Ridge2007 Badly Overdrawn Boy N.Shepherd2007 Joining the Debt Set N.Shepherd2007 Never Never Land N.Shepherd2007 La Plage R.Henderson2007 Hill Billies N.Shepherd2007 The Hill Has Eyes N.Shepherd2007 What Every Woman Wants N.Shepherd2007 Where there's Muck there's Brass N.Shepherd2007 Slim Pickins K.Edwards2007 Dig Deep K.Edwards2007 Ginger's Jewels I.Macdonald2007 Weighty Issue K.Edwards2007 Gut Feeling K.Edwards2007 Touch Too Much K.Edwards2007 Xmas Xcess N.Shepherd2007 Serious Beef N.Shepherd2007 Fat of the Land N.Shepherd2007 Fat Boy Slims N.Shepherd2007 Monkey See, Monkey Do N.Shepherd2007 The Zoo N.Shepherd2007 Walking the Plank N.Shepherd2007 Crocodile Corner N.Shepherd2007 By Hook or by Crook N.Shepherd2007 Smee Day N.Shepherd2007 Wings Would Help K.Edwards2007 Fly Boy N.Shepherd2007 Wrong Turn K.Edwards2007 True Path K.Edwards2007 Seeing the Light K.Edwards2007 Peddle Power K.Edwards2007 Done and Dusted N.Shepherd2007 Curtain Call K.Edwards2007 Skullduggery K.Edwards2007 The Enforcer N.Shepherd

NO/MISSING DETAILS:

BalmashannerChein

The Red HeadRed Head Escape RouteCock O'The NorthFull Steam Ahead

ArbroathMushroom Treatment

MINOR CRAGS

1984 Mither Ficker G.Livingston, G.Davidson1984 Finger Ficker G.Livingston, G.Davidson2003 23 August Best Forgotten Art T.Rankin, M.Reed2003 23 August Reed's Bogey M.Reed, T.Rankin2003 30 September Gift of Contentment T.Rankin, M.Reed2005 24 May The Rib D.F.Lang, Q.T.Crichton