it was an evening to remember as India's biggest sporting icons ...

It was an evening to remember as India’s biggest

sporting icons converged in New Delhi for the

seventh edition of Sports Illustrated India’s

Sportsperson Of The Year Awards. Badminton sensation

Kidambi Srikanth was adjudged the Sportsperson Of The

Year; former India hockey captain Dhanraj Pillay was

conferred with the Lifetime Achievement Award; three-

time Olympic gold medallist for hockey, Balbir Singh

Sr., was honoured with the Living Legend Award; and

Olympic medallist and 18-time Grand Slam champion

Leander Paes was conferred with the Outstanding

Contribution to Sports Award.

The annual gala was graced by chief guest Minister

of State (I/C) Youth Affairs & Sports and Information &

Broadcasting, Col. Rajyavardhan Singh Rathore, with top

sports stars such as leading spinner Amit Mishra, India

women’s T20I captain Harmanpreet Kaur, badminton star

Jwala Gutta, Olympic Gold Quest CEO Viren Rasquinha,

Paralympian Deepa Malik, Adivasi Rugby Club founder

Sailen Tudu, Polo legend Samir Suhag and ex-India

cricketer Atul Wassan, among others.

Resorts, and Indian cricketer Amit Mishra

(L to R) Parineeta Sethi, Director, EMM, and former Indian

cricketer Atul Wassan present the Lifetime Achievement

Award to former

Illustrated India

Cover with

India

$ 4.50 / SLR 450 / NPR 35 / MVR 60

PKR 30O / BTN 200 /TAKA 350

travelandleisureindia.in

AUGUST 2018 / 150

DIANA PENTY JOURNEYSTO A RAJASTHAN FORT

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ON THE COVERAt Alila Fort Bishangarh, Rajasthan. Produced by Anwesha Sanyal Photographed by Taras TaraporvalaStyled by Akanksha Pandey Make-up and hair by Elton J Fernandez Diana Penty wearing jacket by Raw Mango, `25,000; skirt by Raw Mango, `80,000; earrings from Amrapali, price on request.

F e a t u r e s 70 The Rise of a Fortress

Bollywood actress Diana Penty explores the regal Alila Fort Bishangarh and tells us the craziest thing she’s done on a trip. By Anwesha Sanyal

Photographed by

Taras Taraporvala

82 Keepers of the Jungle

A journey deep into the forests of Sumatra brings to life the story of the planet’s most endangered primates. By Saki Knafo

Photographed by Stefan Ruiz

90 On the Wild Side

The most thrilling adventures are born in the wild. And there is no better place to experience these than Zambia, home to 20 national parks. By Anurag Mallick

& Priya Ganapathy

ContentsAUGUST 2018

The magnificent gates of Alila Fort Bishangarh

set the mood for the stay.

t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e i n d i a . i n

Alluring DestinationImmerse in timeless tradition at the St. Regis suites.

transports you to a world of the signature St. Regis Living.

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Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. | @stregishotels

The St. Regis Mumbai462, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai, Maharashtra, 400 013, India

t. +91 22 6162 8000 | stregis.com/mumbai

ContentsAUGUST 2018

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D e p a r t m e n t s

HERE&NOW11T+L’s top 10 wildlife expeditions to set your pulse racing; travel accessories to pack for this season; check out the new Naumi Hotel Auckland Airport; discover the luxurious side of Airbnb apartments.

THROUGH THE LENS40Join us on a wildlife journey as we go beyond the tiger and trace the more elusive denizens of India’s jungles.

BEYOND47Find new reasons to visit Goa;embark on a culinary journeyacross India; an exciting new finin Lucknow; cruise from Barnstaple to Newquay in the UKexperience the magic and romanof La Serenissima.

In Every Issue6 Editor’s Note10 T+L Digital

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#TNLTRAVELS ON

n an ode to India, Germanscholar Max Müller once

said: “If I were asked underwhat sky the human mind hasmost fully developed someof its choicest gifts, has mostdeeply pondered over thegreatest problems of life,and has found solutions...I should point to India.”

India is a country ofextremes—from theHimalayan enchantmentin the north to the serenebackwaters of Kerala, andthe barren deserts of Thar to

the second wettest locale in the world in Cherrapunji—it is anamalgamation of terrains, cultures, and tastes that can take you a lifetime to unravel. This India Special edition of T+L India &

South Asia uncovers some of the most unique experiences our states and union territories have to off er.

When you speak of India, how can you forget the royal heritage of Rajasthan? Bollywood actor and our cover star, Diana Penty, explores a 230-year-old fort in Bishangarh (p. 70). A little over a thousand kilometres away is the developing state of Andhra Pradesh, which graces our fl ip cover. Don’t miss out on Andhra’s hidden gems (p. 4) or author extraordinaire Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi’s guide to Goa’s inland (p. 48).

If you’re a nature lover, our journeys to some of the most exotic wildlife destinations, including the land of the orangutans (p. 82), will leave you speechless. We also motor through the UK in a Mercedes-AMG C43 (p. 60), while romancing Venice remains on the radar for more reasons than one (p. 64).

As I prep myself to discover yet another destination in the esoteric Middle East, I remind myself, all over again, to travel with an open mind and heart. That is, after all, the only way to enjoy this globetrotting way of life. Meanwhile, I hope this India package makes you want to make some explorations closer to home.

Happy journeys! H

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1. Diana Penty at Alila Fort Bishangarh.

2. MahabodhiTemple, Bodh Gaya, Bihar.

3. An orangutan innorthern Sumatra.

4. Ponte della Paglia, Venice.

Editor’s NoteAUGUST 2018

1

2

3

4@TRAVELANDLEISUREINDIA

@TNLINDIA

Aindrila Mitra

[email protected]

I


& SOUTH ASIAINDIA

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@KATHIKCANCLICK CAPTURES THE ESSENCE OF THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN MAN AND HIS CAMEL IN THIS SILHOUETTE AGAINST JAISALMER’S DROWNING SUN.

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8 Exclusive Services That Prove Money Can Buy AnythingFrom engraving your name on a car to driving one underwater, this list is dangerously expensive.travelandleisureindia.in/

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You May Need A Map To Find These 9 Hidden Fashion AteliersGet your retail therapy at cloaked boutiques around the world with this exclusive list.travelandleisureindia.in/hidden-

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buy-vintage-wear-in-europe


t r

T+L’S SELECTION OF WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS THAT WILL SET YOUR PULSE RACING.

BY STUTI AGARWAL

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WILD REASONS TO TRAVEL NOW

No. 1Catch up with the Grizzlies of the Canadian RockiesPerhaps Rudyard Kipling was right when he wrote, “Man village? They’ll ruin him. They’ll make a man out of him.” While life as Mowgli may be difficult (now that we are all, in fact, ruined), a tryst with Mowgli’s best friend may be just what you need to revitalise. The grizzly bears found in the Canadian Rockies may not be Baloo, but they are close relatives. Among the eight remaining bear species on the planet, these bears are the largest mammals in the mountains and an almost sure sight on a hike in the beautiful national parks of Banff and Jasper. Spot these massive animals catching fish or eating berries in the summer, and gaze at playful cubs if you’re lucky. There are also healthy populations of moose, caribou, and wolves here. Add to this the picturesque Lake Louise and Kicking Horse Canyon with the Banff Jasper Collection (banffjaspercollection.com), and you’re sure to “forget about your worries and strife.”


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No. 2 Strut on a Beach with PenguinsImagine strolling on a beach with a host of tuxedoed birds

stumbling along with you. This is exactly what the Punta Tombo Provincial Reserve, near Trelew in Argentine Patagonia, offers

visitors. In one of the world’s largest congregations of magellanic penguins, thousands of individuals gather to breed

and nest between late September and April in the peninsula. If you time your arrival near the tail end of the nesting season

with Swoop Patagonia (swoop-patagonia.com), you may even be treated to the sight of baby penguins hatching and getting ready to migrate—waddling, slipping, and taking

an adorable tumble or two.

No. 4 Sing along with Beluga WhalesEvery summer, between mid-June and mid-September, the warm waters of the Hudson Bay and Manitoba’s northern

rivers in Canada celebrate the homecoming of tens of thousands of white beluga whales, which come here to feed and

give birth. Nicknamed ‘melon heads’ and ‘sea canaries’ (for their strange high-pitched whistles and chirping), these

sociable creatures allow you to dive right in with them. Sure, there is the option of the passenger boat, but wouldn’t

you rather snorkel amidst them, close enough to hear their echolocation clicks and feel their exhalation bubbles a few

feet away? Or, cackle with them as they greet your kayak, turning over their side to check you out? Or be on a Zodiac

for that premium beluga shot? Sea North Tours (seanorthtours.com) offers all this and more.

No. 3 Slow down and Watch the SlothCosta Rica is as thickly populated with sloths

as it is with people. Yet, these lazy animals are

inexplicably difficult to spot. They blend into

the trees, and since they rarely move in the

daytime (they move around four metres a

minute, if they must), they are impossible to

see without a guided eye. You can watch them

go about their idle days in the comfort of a

luxury resort at Nayara Springs

(nayarasprings.com) and its sister retreat,

Nayara Resort, Spa & Garden (arenalnayara.

com), in Arenal Volcano National Park. Or,

head to the Sloth Sanctuary for a guided tour.

Why one would want to travel to see them

snore is a reasonable question to ask, but if

Flash the sloth in Zootopia was any indication,

their slo-mo life is totally worth the trip.

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No. 6Track Seven Wild Cats in One GoThe only wet tropical rainforest of

the country, Dehing Patkai

Wildlife Sanctuary (forest.assam.

gov.in) in Assam, is home to many

rare bird species, including white-

winged wood duck, white-backed

vulture, white-cheeked hill

partridge, kalij pheasant, rufous-

necked hornbill, and nuthatch.

Moreover, it is the only forest that

boasts of seven wild cats: tiger,

leopard, clouded leopard, leopard

cat, golden cat, jungle cat, and

marbled cat. And in case this isn’t

enough to justify a trip, there are

primates in the offering. Out of 15

species of non-human primates

found in India, seven are found in

this virgin rainforest. So, why

haven’t you been here yet?

No. 7Prowl with Fierce Jaguars The Cuiabá River in Pantanal has been a haunt of local fisherman for

years. Fishing along the riverbanks is so routine that the men pay little attention to the jaguars that come to hunt for their daily meals. And the

jaguars, too, couldn’t care less about the silent boats. Find an experienced boatman and guide with Pantanal Safaris (pantanalsafaris.com) in the

summer months between July and September, and you have hours of prowling on the river, waiting for these magnificent wild cats to come

by for their daily drink or a sumptuous meal of caiman or capybara. You can also spot other wildlife like giant river otters, tapirs, anacondas,

howler monkeys, and numerous bird species.

No. 5Capture the Lions that Climb Trees“In the jungle, the mighty jungle, the

lion sleeps tonight…” This song of The

Tokens can use an update for certain

prides of lions found in Kenya, Uganda,

and on the Tanzania borders. The

lionesses (and some lions) here have

adapted to climbing trees and being

curiously at home on them, although

they are yet to completely master the

dexterity of their smaller cousins.

Kenya’s Lake Nakuru National Park is

one of the few places on Earth where you

can witness this amusing behaviour and

capture a unique frame. While the sight

of a whole pride atop a tree is rare (you

can’t expect the king and queen to be

available at your beck and call), it is

more than worth a trip to these forests.

Lion World Travel (lionworldtravel.com)

offers a wide range of safaris.


No. 9Witness Gorillas in the MistThere are fewer than 1,000 mountain

gorillas left on Earth. A visit to

witness the species apotheosised

by legendary movies like King Kong

and Gorillas in the Mist seems but

necessary now. And there is only one

place on the planet where you can

pay your regards face to face—the

Virunga Mountains, a chain of

volcanoes that runs along Rwanda,

Uganda, and the Democratic

Republic of Congo. As Rwanda is the

best bet with its small size and high

density of tracked groups, a long trek

along the mountains with Audley

(audleytravel.com) ensures an

encounter with the hairy beasts as

they navigate trees, swing

on branches, or beat their chests

for the cameras.

No. 10 Go on a Darwinian DiscoveryCharles Darwin, on his famous voyage aboard the HMS Beagle, developed the basis

for his Theory of Natural Selection by observing the unique species that inhabit this

biodiversity hotspot. Often described as “nature’s great experiment,” the Galápagos

Islands are home to endemic wildlife that has evolved in virtual isolation over

millions of years. From diving with hammerhead sharks and turtles off Kicker Rock,

to witnessing a live version of BBC Planet Earth II’s ‘Marine Iguana vs. Racer Snakes’

sequence, walking with giant tortoises at the El Chato Tortoise Reserve, and

swimming with the swift Galápagos penguins off Isla Bartolomé, the archipelago is

a live laboratory of evolution, and offers the most holistic encounter with nature

possible, all part of tours available on GalapagosIslands.com.

No. 8 Swim with Whale SharksOff the coast of Mexico, the untouched island of Holbox offers you the rare chance to swim with the biggest fish in the world, the whale shark. It can

grow upto 14 metres in length and weigh nearly 15 tonnes, but these giants are extremely gentle and even curious about humans. You can swim close enough to observe their surreal pattern of pale white and

yellow dots on thick grey skin—all far away from the googly-eyed tourists thronging the Yucatan Peninsula. Migratory patterns dictate that the

whale sharks congregate in these warm waters from mid-May to mid-September. Ceviche Tours (cevichetours.com) and Holbox Whale

Shark Tours (holboxwhalesharktours.com) offer this unique experience.

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ENTS AUTOMATICDEVANAGARI

SCRIPT DIALREDERIQUE CONSTANT

Frederique Constant washe first Swiss watchmaker

to introduce a dial withDevanagari numerals in an

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OFFICINE PANERAI

Oicine Panerai pays tribute to

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CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH INDIA 2017HUBLOTUnveiled by cricketer Rohit Sharma last year, the Classic Fusion Chronograph India 2017 is a limited-edition watch in the “India blue” colour, meant for cricket fans. Showcased in 45 mm titanium casewith an additional pink-gold bezel and gold embellishments in the form of smallchronograph counters, blue sunray satin-fi nished dial, gold-plated hands. `9,85,500; 100 pieces only

Reverso has a strongdian root, having beenborn in the polo fieldsof Rajasthan in 1931.

This masterpiece isdoubly Indian with a

miniature painting onone of their technicalwonders, the Reverso

à Éclipse. It allowsthe user to conceal

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Indian Standard TimeIndia has a unique place in the heart of luxury watchmaking for its peculiar half-hour time difference with other countries, its legacy of

miniature painting, and special design sensibilities. BY MITRAJIT BHATTACHARYA

KALPA TONDA HEMISPHERE

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER This timepiece captures the complex 30-minute

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Available in steel or 18-carat pink gold, it

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rmade with reclaimedbrass and silver and plated with 22-karat gold, The Slow Studio at Nimai, `3,500; shopnimai.com

C E L E T

Gauntlet in silver andbrass from the brand’s

Bellum Collection, Anomaly by

Anam, `4500; anomalybyanam.com

F R A G R A N C E

With spicy and fl oral perfume

notes, Moire by Bombay Perfumery, `4,100 for 100 ml;

bombayperfumery com

H A N D B A G

Colour-blocked handheld bag, Da Milano, `7,800; damilano.com

O U T F I T

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Sunsets in Goa are what dreams are made of.

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For theLove of FoodA promising new menu of pan-Indian dishes at Hilton Chennai has got the city’s gourmands talking.

Say your vows surrounded by wilderness in a private South African game reserve.

Food connoisseurs in

Chennai can now treat

themselves to a whole

new culinary experience

with the restaurant Ayna at

Hilton Chennai (hilton.com)

relaunching its menu with

interesting additions from

around the country. The

menu has been developed

by the restaurant’s new chef

de cuisine, Biswajit, who

specialises in Bengali, Punjabi,

and Rajasthani fare, and relies

on freshly pounded spices

to do the trick for each of his

signature creations.

Some of the top dishes

are echor er chop (a Bengali

preparation of jackfruit

patties), ropad wala kukkad

(a new version of chicken

tandoori), triplicane kozhi

biryani (Tamil preparation of

chicken biryani), kappa vada

(Malabar preparation of tapioca

patties), laal maas (traditional

Rajasthani mutton curry),

masala chai crème brûlée, and

lab e shireen (an assortment

of kulfi ). But it’s the chef’s

signature creation, lamb chops

with basil chew sauce, that’s

on the top of our list. Ayna is a

sought-after destination among

the city’s foodies for its selective

pan-Indian off erings served

with exquisite wine pairings.

The place carries an old-world

charm and is open for both

lunch and dinner. The express

buff et lunches served here

are extremely popular among

gourmands on the go.

—SHIKHA PUSHPAN

WED IN THE WILD

Move over the run-of-the-mill beachside resorts for your dream destina tion wedding. Consider this: a pristine river bank surrounded by acres of untouched South African wilderness, with hippos in

attendance. The Ulusaba Game Reserve (virginlimitededition.com), located near Kruger National Park, offers just this and more.

Situated within the Sabi Sand Reserve, Ulusaba is Sir Richard Branson’s private safari game reserve. Just 30 minutes from the Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, it promises sightings of the Big Five in twice-daily game drives.

For a big fat wedding, the two lodges here offer 21 rooms and suites along with outdoor pools and a spa. The Ulusaba team has over a hundred weddings under its belt, so be assured you’ll be in safe hands. Mark your ceremony with some local fl avour—a wrist-tying ceremony with dried grass, an Ulusaba choir, a performance by Shangaan dancers, and a traditional braai (barbeque) in the woods after the ceremony. Literally meaning ‘place of little fear’, Ulusaba evokes a spirit of freedom and love, perfect to mark a new journey.

—RASHIMA NAGPAL

Pretty Affair

Fine Dining

Rustic interiors give Ayna a laid-back vibe.Below: Chef Biswajit has curated the new pan-Indian menu at the restaurant.

The deck at Ulusaba Game Reserve looks out to wide swathes of green.


Singaporean hospitality brand Naumi Hotels launches its first property in Auckland, bringing its chic design sensibility to the quiet Māngere neighbourhood.

ANWESHA SANYAL checks into Naumi Hotel Auckland Airport.

The bar at Naumi Hotel Auckland Airport is a cool spot to down a beer before you head to the hotel’s Asian restaurant, Paksa, for a hearty meal.

AN

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LThe Tui Effect

AS THE CAR SWERVED

out of the airport driveway, my

first impression of the city took

shape like a jigsaw puzzle coming

together. Some of the airport

dullness had set in after the

long layover in Singapore, and

the sense of an impending jet

lag was beginning to catch on.

After a short, 18-minute drive,

I arrived on the front porch

of Naumi Hotel Auckland Airport

on Kirkbride Road to the view of

its glass façade, gleaming with

the reflection of the afternoon

sky. Vaguely visible inside was a

very large, shimmering golden

wall behind a partially lit but busy

reception desk. I hopped off to

join the incoming guests for check

in. What immediately followed

was a peculiar (and unconscious)

indifference to the actual process.

Instead of falling in line, heads

turned everywhere in a bid to

familiarise themselves to the

surroundings—the warm green

walls textured with gold; lively,

artsy furniture in the waiting

areas; imaginative, modern

artworks on the walls; and an

opera of debating canaries in a

large birdcage. One thing was

clear: this was not your regular

airport hotel.

“Naumi says… Hello!” ran a

signage at the reception, my first

touch-point at the hotel. This, I

later discovered, was the character

of the hotel. ‘Naumi’ was an elite,

fashionable woman of 25, who

took guests around the property

with her dialogue. ‘Naumi says...’

was a recurring phrase that played

out flirtatiously across the hotel,

followed by things that would

Check-In


“The plan was to use whimsical

fantasy to get away from the drab

and dreary afterthought that

airport hotels create.”

usually sound appalling in a public

space: “Naumi says... Blow Me,”

went the cloth wrapper of the blow

dryer; “…Swallow, It’s Safe,” she

said to indicate that the tap water

was potable; “Turn Me On,” said

the TV remote; “Open Me Wide,”

pleaded the information booklet.

As Gaurang Jhunjhnuwala, the

CEO of Naumi Hotels, later put

it, the plan was to use whimsical

fantasy and steer away from the

drab and dreary afterthought that

airport hotels created. One of the

ways he did this was by hiring

the right designers. Material

Creative and Ellery Muir, two

well-known professionals in the

cafe space, had never designed

anything more than a 22-square-

metre space. For this project,

they had almost an acre to play

with and make it cosy and warm,

like a boutique hotel should feel.

Taking inspiration from the

native Tui bird, they embellished

the 193 guestrooms across three

categories—Habitat, Oasis,

Blush—in colour palettes of the

bird’s feathers, used bright pops

in the furniture and accents,

darker tones for the walls, and

spoiled the independent nooks

around the hotel with cosy seating

so guests could find a private spot

for themselves. The biggest draws

were the two signature suites,

Ziggy and Dottie, the former

inspired by the classic chevron

and striped Missoni design, with

a neon orange lit bar, pool table,

outdoor dining area, and original

vintage artwork, and the latter

by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama,

who is popular for her bright

concept pieces.

Jhunjhnuwala wanted to

build a hotel that would start

conversations, one of the catalysts

Clockwise, from above: The public restroom at the hotel

has a quirky signage; the Blush Rooms at Naumi are

designed to appeal to women; the Dottie Suite uses an

abundance of circles.

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www.virginlimitededition.com

Escape now: +44 (0)208 600 0430

[email protected]

SOME DREAMS

CAN’T WAIT

MAHALI MZURI, KENYA MAHALI MZURI, KENYAULUSABA, SOUTH AFRICA

ULUSABA, SOUTH AFRICA

AUCKLAND CITYAuckland’s Central Business District, with a

few distractions placed at short distances

away, makes this city easy to navigate.

T+ L R E C O M M E N D S

JOHN MCFARLANE

NEW ZEALAND WINE PROMOTIONS

Take half- or full-day wine tours of any of the country’sreputed vineyards with John

McFarlane of NZ WinePro.He believes that NZ wines are a great starting point

for newbies, and conducts educational tours for all kinds

of travellers. nzwinepro.co.nz

9 AMORTOLANA

A brimming breakfast place that offers a delicious farm-to-

table menu in its chic, indoor-outdoor space. Get a corner table and indulge in

some languid crowd-watching over smoked fish, haloumi, pumpkin hummus, served with

free range eggs and seasonal veggies.

ortolana.co.nz

3.30 PMAUCKLAND

ART GALLERY

The largest art institution in the

city hosts regular exhibitions by

contemporary Kiwi and Māori artists. A great time to visit would be

between August 25 and August 28 for their annual culture festival.

aucklandartgallery.com

11 AMVILLA MARIA ESTATE

Visit one of the world’s most famous vineyards at 11 am for an hour-long wine tour, followed by an intimate tasting session. End the trip with a meaty lunch to test your newfound wine selection skills. The highest quality wines include the Grenache and Pinot Noir. villamaria.co.nz

8 PMPONSONBY

The upscale neighbourhood of Ponsonby has dim-lit restaurants and bars for those who like to complement fine food with a limited-edition wine. Prego is a recommended Italian diner with great vegetarian and gluten-free options. prego.co.nz

being art. Each artwork and accent

at Naumi was a commissioned

piece. The Australia-based artist and

winner of the NSW Wynne prize,

Belynda Henry, translated New

Zealand’s landscape into designs for

the colourful rugs in each room,

while local designer Judi Bagust

used her signature brush strokes to

create wall decor reminiscent of the

song of the Tui. It worked. Three

months into its launch, Naumi

Hotel Auckland Airport had

established itself as the mainstay in

the quiet Māngere neighbourhood

and was attracting repeat visitors.

On the first night, I chose to

venture not far from my room to

Paksa (which translates to ‘wing of

a bird’), the hotel’s contemporary

restaurant that served Asian

cuisine. A 20-minute drive from the

Central Business District, Māngere

could have well been considered a

far-fetched dinner spot at 9.30 pm

on a weekday. Not here, though.

This place was houseful like the

opening night of an art exhibit,

with every conversation taken over

by something larger than itself.

As I sat there, my thoughts lingered

like the wine in my mouth, and I

realised how the hotel had changed

me in under one night. I had always

been a firm believer in booking

hotels at or near the city centre—

because that’s where all the action

is. I’m not sure I vouch for that idea

now. Nor do the canaries in

Naumi’s birdcage. ▪

The corridors at Naumi Hotel Auckland Airport have arrows on the walls

to indicate the way to the lobby.

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New Turf

If you thought Airbnb wasn’t quite discerning enough for your taste, it’s time to think again, as they open the doors

to a whole new world of swanky apartments. BY SIMON CLAYS

Airbnb Goes Luxury

It’s been 10 years since Airbnb’s charismatic owner, Brian Chesky, first

advertised his own San Francisco apartment for rent, complete with inflatable ‘air bed’ mattresses. And yes, that is where part of the now famous moniker sprouts from. To mark the anniversary, the company has decided to attack the premium sector with its recent launch of ‘Plus.’

It’s an interesting rental concept that pushes the envelope of guest expectation much closer to the luxury marque. The idea is to have most of the finer touches that make lounging in a five-star such a divine indulgence with none of the sterile feelings of isolation that can sometimes plague hotels. Think going commando with style—offbeat pin codes where premium hotels are thin on the ground, and access to local intelligence that’ll grant you the chance to really see inside a city.

Of course, premium accommodation demands premium hosts, so the rigours in place to ensure that Airbnb Plus really is a plus,

are substantial. There are personal inspections, with a checklist of 100-plus criteria, though these largely focus on cleanliness and creature comforts. At the moment, Airbnb’s Plus inventory is available in 13 cities around the world: Austin, Barcelona, Cape Town, Chicago, Los Angeles, London, Melbourne, Milan, Rome, San Francisco, Shanghai, Sydney, and Toronto, though the company is bullish about its expansion plans.

Our London ExperienceI jetted into London last month to see Plus first-hand as a guest of Airbnb. As an ex-Londoner, I’m as au fait with the city’s postcodes as a black-taxi driver, so their choice of leafy Fulham to showcase the experience

was an interesting one. ‘Street-local’ enough to be off the established track, but mainlined to South Kensington, Chelsea and on to the West End. My Plus flat was situated on the first floor of a typical Victorian terrace row (Mary Poppins with a modern touch). From the outside, it was unassuming, from the inside a wash of white fabric, minimalist art, and mod seating—all slightly Philippe Starck, the bathroom in particular.

A nice touch was the bottle of red wine sitting on the dining table—it added to the warmth of the experience and proved a satisfying diversion while I thumbed through my host’s book collection and tried to guess his occupation.

With a fully-equipped kitchen, fluffy duvet, and excellent espresso machine, I had all I needed from a room, but what about those other benefits a five-star offers? Well, you’ll get no better concierge than your host, and they’re but a call away for local information. The gym? I had a fabulous, airy park not five minutes from the front door. Fine dining? London’s only Michelin-star gastropub was at walking distance. The adage ‘seek and ye shall find’ fits well with the Plus experience. Ultimately, you are in someone else’s house, but the pay-off is you’re also in someone else’s London, and that, until now, was an almost priceless commodity. ▪

Clockwise, from top left: The Fulham Airbnb Plus was part of a Victorian townhouse; Harwood Arms is a classic British pub, serving ales and Michelin-star cuisine; Labi’s Deli proved to be the perfect tonic for breakfast; a filling English breakfast; twin sash windows allowed ample light into the apartment.


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CULINARY CORNER

The City Palace is asight to behold at night.Enjoy this spectacle asyou savour reinventedclassic dishes atthe hotel’s outdoordining restaurant,Udaimahal. Or, if youwant to take in theviews of the manicuredgardens, book a spotat Chandni. Duringthe day, Suryamahal,

with its tables set ininterconnected domes,makes for an intimatesetting for a cosylunch date. The Bar

is another favouriteamong the guests forits ornate dome anddramatic interiors.

Check-in

The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur offers unparalleled luxury with its palatial rooms and extraordinary service.

All Things Regal

Arguably the most romantic city of India,

Udaipur seamlessly blends the glamour

of royalty with a picturesque network of

artficial lakes set against the dramatic

Aravalli Range. Set charmingly on the bank

of Lake Pichola, The Oberoi Udaivilas,

Udaipur (oberoihotels.com) recreates the

romance of the past, and yet is completely in

keeping with the 21st century. Designed like

a traditional Indian palace, the hotel

combines a regal setting—arches and

domes, pavilions and balconies—with

bespoke offerings that impress the most

discerning travellers. From the indulgent

cuisine to the spa, and the palatial interiors,

this one is a stay fit for royalty.

FINER DETAILS Start your day with a rejuvenating Ayurveda

treatment at the spa. Allow an experienced

masseuse to treat you to a full-body

massage using a heated poultice packed

with herbs, followed by the signature

Oberoi Dhara ritual. After your muscles

are unknotted, explore the city from Lake

Pichola on a private boat tour. Watch the

city attractions, such as City Palace and

Jagmandir, cast their spell on the clear blue

lake as a guide briefs you on the ornate

lives of the Mewar royal family. Extend the

experience with a leisurely lunch on the

boat that starts off with a gourmet treat

of signature beverages and canapés. The

colourful banks make for the perfect setting

for the exquisite local delicacies served

by the hotel’s masterchefs. An afternoon

tea with rare teas and coffees, served

with freshly-baked fruit scones and tarts,

completes the outing. If you’re travelling

with kids, sign them up for a Maharaja Ride

to explore a secret trail close to the property,

on a camel.

PRIVATE SPACES Watch the dimly-lit domes of The Oberoi

Udaivilas, Udaipur transform the cityscape

as night takes over. Treat your partner to a

candlelit dinner at a private dining space by

the promenade, while folk musicians from

the state set the mood for a memorable

evening together. —SHIKHA PUSHPAN

The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur is located on the banks of Lake Pichola.

The bedrooms at the hotel use

local accents.

The interiors of The Bar are inspired by

Mewar architecture.


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Royalty Redefined

A stay in Fairmont Jaipur comes with the promise of regal hospitality, unique wellness treatments, and the best of the city’s cultural offerings under one roof.

For Kings & QueensI

t is believed that the erstwhile

Maharaja of Jaipur, Sawai Ram

Singh II, once ordered the city

to be imbued in hues of pink to

extend an extraordinary

welcome to his royal guests,

Prince Albert and Queen

Victoria in 1876. Why pink? The

colour symbolises warmth and

hospitality. Having inherited

this legacy of unparalleled

hospitality, Farimont Jaipur

makes its guests feel nothing

less than kings and queens

from the moment they walk in

through the magnificent façade.

Gravel and gongs are sounded

to announce the arrival as the

guests make their way to the

Char Bagh courtyard, to be

welcomed by parrots and

peacocks singing to the tunes

of santoor, harmonium,

ektara, and tabla.

Once you’re checked in,

the world gets accentuated by

intricate frescos, carved silver

antiques, ample green spaces,

and magnificent views of the

Aravalli hills through arched

windows and courtyards.

The hotel, with its castle-like

roofscape, is modelled around

the traditional hill forts of the

Rajput and Mughal dynasties.

Therefore, look forward to

vintage Shekhawati furniture,

Mughal-styled low-seating

beds, hamam bath tubs, a pool

that takes inspiration from the

Clockwise, from left: The façade and generous green spaces of the hotel reflect the opulence of the city’s royal past; the Ruhab Spa has zodiac sign-based treatments; a tiffin service is available for in-room dining; Zoya, the all-day diner, serves Rajasthani fare.

ancient board game of chaupad,

etc. The in-room dabba service

allows guests to enjoy Rajasthani

delicacies, such as gatta curry,

laal maas, and dal baati in a

traditional, three-tiered, golden-

brass tiin in the comfort of

their suites. Arguably the most

unique part of the stay is the

zodiac sign-based wellness

treatment menu at the spa,

Ruhab. Ayurveda is at the heart

of the customised Horo spa

treatments that aim to strike

the perfect balance between the

guest’s doshas—vata, pitta, and

kapha, in line with the planets

and the four elements of air,

water, fire, and earth.

If you visit Jaipur during its

sweltering summers and do not

want to step out, the hotel

makes sure you don’t miss out

on much. From taking falconry

lessons to watching bangle-

makers, puppeteers, dancers,

and potters—a gamut of

Rajasthani cultural offerings are

available within the palatial

grandeur of Fairmont Jaipur.

—SHIKHA PUSHPAN


If all-things-spooky excite you, watch out for Universal Studios Singapore’s eighth edition of Halloween Horror Nights at Resorts World Sentosa. It promises some serious chills.

Move over dressing up as vampires and witches, the in thing to do this Halloween is entering

bone-chilling interactive installations. Singapore’s Universal Studios puts up one such show every year at its Halloween Horror Nights (halloweenhorrornights.com.

sg), an event that warrants a trip

to Resorts World Sentosa. The

eighth edition, themed Infinite

Fear, includes five haunted

houses, three live shows, and

two scare zones.

LIGHTS

Begin with watching a series of

horror short films produced by

Universal Studios Singapore. These

dramatic bite-sized films aim to

showcase the riveting stories and

iconic supernatural characters

of this year’s haunted houses in

unique cinematographic style. Set

to be released between July and

August on Resort World Sentosa’s

Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and

YouTube pages, they will set the

stage for the on-site event.

CAMERA

Immerse yourself in an intense

experience in one (or more) of

the haunted houses. This year,

Universal Studios Singapore has

collaborated with Netflix to put

forth an eerie experience of the

popular web series, Stranger

Things. Expect to be a part of

12 recreated scenes in thematic

rooms, including one that depicts

the woods in the ‘upside down’.

Not a fan of Eleven and the gang?

There are many other experiences

Clockwise, from left: Immmersive installations—The Haunting of Oiwa, Pontianak, and Apocalypse: Earth.

In the Spirit of Halloween

that derive from Asian horror

classics to give you goosebumps—

enter the Chinese secret society

of vampires, Killuminati, live the

dreaded legend of Pontianak, come

face-to-face with the resurrected

Lady Oiwa in The Haunting of

Oiwa, and encounter your worst

fears in the scare zone of Cannibal.

ACTION

Back by popular demand after its

debut last year, Zombie Laser Tag

is a thrilling activity. Each team

of eight participants kills zombies

with laser guns. The arena for

the face-off is double the size it

was last year. In the scare zone

Apocalypse: Earth, you survive

the streets of New York as

terrifying natural forces threaten

to wipe out humankind.

—RASHIMA NAGPAL

THE DETAILS

WHAT

Halloween

Horror Nights 8_____

WHEN

September 27

to October 31_____

WHERE

Universal

Studios, Resorts

World Sentosa,

Singapore

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Haunted House

t r at r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e i n d i a . i n

1. From left: Guests at the event, Samia Sait,

Omar Sait, Satyajit Medappa, and

Shanthala Medappa.

2. Guests look on as Chef KoKoMMo

conducts the Masterclass.

3. From left: Vijai Singh (GM,

InterContinental Chennai

Mahabalipuram), Executive Chef Malik

Singh Malik, Chef KokoMMo, Aindrila

Mitra (Editor) and Sushmita Gupta

(Business Head) of Travel+Leisure India &

South Asia.

4. From left: Satyajit Medappa, Suhail Sattar,

Suben Subramaniam and Nilesh Reddy.

5. From left: Tony Decker, Pam Peake,

Georgie Peake, Ellen Schammer, Emma

Caldwell, and Graeme Peake.

6. Sanjay Dasari and Saraswati.

7. A serving of grilled prawns to

kick-start the evening.

FOO

D•WINE•FLAVOURS•PLACES•CONVER

SA

TIO

NS

Masterclass

TO

P C

HEFS•WORLD CUISINES•GREAT HOTEL

S

Travel+Leisure India & South Asia, in association with InterContinental Chennai

Mahabalipuram, hosted an evening of culinary lessons on grilling at Chennai’s first beach

shack, KokoMMo, on July 7, 2018. Named ‘What’s on the Grill,’ the Masterclass was the second such association between the two brands

and saw a selective gathering of well-heeled travellers try their hands at the art of grilling on

the beach, making for a memorable evening. Chef KokoMMo doled out an expertly curated

meal with signature dishes, such as gambas aioli, and pan-smeared scallops with bruce butter and Chardonnay sauce. The lessons were paired with

cocktails like the Malibu Sunset and Mimosa. The highlight of the event was a spirited cook-off session between the guests (divided in groups);

the winner walked away with a two-day staycation at the InterContinental Chennai Mahabalipuram. On the hotel’s newest addition that launched on April 23 this year, Vijai Singh, General Manager, InterContinental Chennai Mahabalipuram, said,

“We have the cleanest part of the beach. And with KoKoMMo, we wanted a shack-cum-beach

restaurant. The youngsters love it, and to enjoy an evening here on the beach with some great grills

and cocktails is also cost-effective.”

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What is the concept behind KoKoMMo?There’s a song by the Beach Boys of California that goes, “There’s a place called Kokomo/ That’s where you want to go.” And here in Chennai, we have tried to create just that place [with KoKoMMo]—bring some light to the imagination of the singer, when he says there is going to be a lot of booze, food, and you can stay away from all your sorrows and sadness. KoKoMMo gives you an experience where you can relax over great cocktails, amazing food, beautiful music from the 1970s, and just be at a place where you have never been before.

Which dishes did you prepare at the T+L Masterclass?

We did two dishes, one of them being the gambas aioli. It is a Spanish dish of garlic prawns. I like to keep the prawns as simple as possible. It’s fresh prawns with garlic, a little Thai bird’s eye red chilli, lime juice, a bit of basil, and olive oil, which is cooked to perfection, and then I serve it with raw papaya and Somtam salad.

The second dish was pan seared scallops with bruce butter and Chardonnay sauce. I pan-sear the scallops at a high temperature keeping it golden brown on top, yet keeping the inside soft. The sauce is made from bruce butter, which is burnt butter. When you burn butter, you get a nutty hazelnut flavour to

Chef Talk

Grill & Fun by the BayChef KoKoMMo dishes out why Chennai’s first beach shack is the hippest place in the city right now and what made the T+L Masterclass at InterContinental Chennai Mahabalipuram Resort so special.

Clockwise from above: KoKoMMo’s signature dish,

gambas aioli; Chef KoKoMMo; Chennai’s first beach shack;

the chef at work at the T+L Masterclass.

it. To that, I have added Chardonnay, which is the only white wine aged in oaks. So, you get an oaky [taste] along with the hazelnut flavour. It’s a beautiful complex combination, which works amazingly with the scallops.

What does the menu comprise at the restaurant?There are 36 items on the menu. It’s mostly appetisers, international grills, and curries served by the bay. The idea is to bring to the table the best by the land and the sea. ▪

My menu is not concentrated on the cuisine; it is to bring

out the best possible outcome that an

ingredient can offer.

Rare Indian Wildlife

the

A Gee’s golden langur in Manas National Park, Assam.

Western Assam is the only region in the country where

this endangered primate is still found.

The jungles of India have so much more to offer than just the

Big Five—tiger, lion, leopard, rhino, and elephant. The more elusive

species leave no pugmarks behind and evoke no alarm calls in their

wake. TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY SHIVANG MEHTA.

B E Y O N D T H E

R O A R & T R U M P E T

A fishing cat in Dudhwa National Park, Uttar Pradesh (UP). Interestingly, the fishing cat is the state animal of West Bengal.

The tiger is the brand ambassador of Indian forests on the global stage. It is the species through which our wildlife is projected to the outside world. But

our wildlife offerings aren’t limited to stripes and pugmarks. India has one of the world’s most diverse ecosystems and supports a range of fascinating wildlife. From mountain ranges to tropical forests, deserts, deciduous forests, mangroves, rainforests, and swamps—the range of habitats that exist here (and face increasing threats) is mind-boggling. This rich cornucopia of flora and fauna cannot be replicated anywhere else on the planet.

As many as 16 species of wild cats (40 per cent of the global wild cat species) are found in India; the number of bird species that perch on the subcontinent is over 1,300—this biodiversity will take decades to be discovered, explored, and documented, if you are up for the challenge. But few give up tiger trails to go trawling through the jungles of the Northeast in search of the only apes in India, the hoolock gibbons. After capturing my share of big cats and elephants in the usual haunts over a decade, I consciously started moving away from tiger reserves to the less explored wilderness in search of rarely seen—let alone photographed—creatures. The pursuit brought me riveting sightings, from a pair of mating rufous-necked hornbills and families of tree-hugging red pandas in West Bengal, to a perfectly camouflaged snow leopard in the bewitching mountainscape of Spiti.

This photo series attempts to showcase a small slice of the project, and an even tinier fragment of all that India has to offer discerning wildlife enthusiasts in its mystical jungles. ▪

Above: An Indian skimmer hovers over the River Chambal in UP. Winter is the best time to photograph these elegant birds.

Left: A pair of rufous-necked hornbills near the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary in West Bengal.The male and female come together in the months of February and March to breed.

Opposite: A red panda in Singalila National Park, West Bengal. These shy, arboreal animals face threats of poaching and habitat loss.

Above: The population of the Phayre’s leaf monkey has gone down drastically over the years. The last few of these primates are found in Tripura.Below: The grey ghost of the Himalayas, the Snow Leopard, is a high-altitude cat. This dominant male was spotted in Himachal Pradesh's Spiti Valley.


Above: Jungle cats are widespread, but rarely seen in Indian forests. This one looked right into the camera at Dudhwa National Park, UP.Below: A gharial basks in the sun at Katarniya Ghat, UP. This critically endangered species is often seen hanging out along the River Chambal.


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A view of the Grand Canal from the Rialto Bridge, in Venice.

BEYONDGoa p. 48 Peru p. 57 Venice p. 64


BEYONDInsider’s Take

There’s more to Goa than meets the eye on its touristy beaches. SIDDHARTH DHANVANT SHANGHVI pencils some very good reasons to pay the state another visit.

Notes from the Village

OF COURSE, it’s no longer the same sleepy, sultry beach town: Goa is where urban India goes trawling for holiday enchantments. This does not always bode well. I watch loutish tourists have altercations with locals. And residents are frazzled—often annoyed with good reason—as their original, quaint landscape comes undone to make room for busloads brandishing beer bottles. To skip some of this skirmish, try coasting through Goa’s dense, gorgeous, authentic inland, its villages. And while you’re doing that, here’s a selection of spaces I swing by.

For design, the fiendishly glamorous Anjali Mody, of Josmo Studio, has the flagship outpost of her design atelier, & So (andso.in), in Porvorim with a marvellous medley of furniture, design objects, and homeware. I have on occasion stayed at Mark Bell’s astonishing luxury villa rental in Assagao, The Villa Goa (villagoa.com), distinguished by its understated design excellence and heroically-long pool. A stay here will remind you that one of Goa’s greatest gifts is its powerful engagement with solitude (which might explain why writers and artists are moving here). Party town? Think again. This year, I stayed at the Villa Goa in the monsoon. Its sprawling gardens were dense green with areca palms, jacaranda, and chikoo trees. The foliage drew hornbills and bulbuls. I marvelled at this natural soundtrack—all jungle bounce and snarl—and yet, perfect for a private celebration on the down low.

Morjim Beach, Goa. Opposite, from

left: The Villa Goa is located amidst

manicured gardens; & So gallery

is a must-visit for art enthusiasts.

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One of my favourite bars in town is The Rice Mill (thericemill.com) in Morjim. It has echoes of New York loft minimalism smack dab in a village setting (there’s a village gym right outside advertising six-pack makeovers). Project Café (theprojectcafe.in) is an exquisitely created space, brought to life with gusto and elegance. It also retails design products, and has a boutique hotel on the grounds and a fantastic restaurant where mushroom farfalle is all the merch. Gunpowder, also in Assagao, is legendary; you can place blind bets on its Malabar paratha with prawn mappas or their dope assortment of cocktails. Go early afternoon, spy around the splendid store People Tree (peopletreeonline.com), and stock up on George’s Cookies for those cheat days. A new, sublime discovery is Melt Pizzabar in Anjuna, where the zaatar pizza is undisputedly the best pizza I’ve had in India. Quickly and persuasively, Melt’s treats of carnivore pizza up the ante—don’t make tracks without the glazed bacon teamed with roasted cherry tomatoes and greens from their kitchen garden.

Full disclosure: I am an honorary director of Sunaparanta Goa Centre For The Arts (sgcfa.org). I must call out interest when I tell you it’s a neat space to look at the works of top-ticket artists as varied as Roger Ballen, William Dalrymple, and Sooni Taraporevala. Set in Altinho—the plummy part of Panjim—Sunaparanta’s courtyard café Bodega is helmed by the indefatigable Vandana Naik, who lends it her passion and expertise in baking bread and pastries. This spread draws in a cool crew of local writers, playschool moms, expat yoga teachers, etc. For Italian food, pay homage to Baba’s Wood Café, in Arpora, run by the delightful Maria Grazia, also creator of Goa’s finest tiramisu. I’d go for the risotto with asparagus and buffalo mozzarella, and the rocket salad with pears. If you’re lucky, Grazia will hunker down your table, cheer you up with local banter, and remind you that it’s a mighty tickle to be in Goa. In Bambolim,

the Grand Hyatt’s Chulha (goa.grand.hyatt.com)

restaurant is where I hang out for my North Indian food pangs. The chaat is bombing, and I always end up with sugarcane juice and jalebis (my annual sugar binge, I swear). Anjuna’s Orchard Supermarket is where we, the locals, go to stock up on sage and rye bread, cold cuts, and a whimsical selection of health food. Right across Orchard Supermarket is Mr. Gelato Cream Choc—order gallons of the Belgian chocolate and hazelnut. You may now ring your boss to say you’ve quit and moved out to Sorrento Vaddo in Anjuna.

Way up north is Fort Tiracol (forttiracol.in), which has been around forever but is now enjoying a dazzling reinvention under new management. With a spectacular view—of the roiling sea, gleaming rocks, and an isolated stretch of beach—Fort Tiracol’s restaurant, Tavern, is where I head to be alone. I was underwhelmed with their period rooms, but the restaurant is enough to make you want to write your cheques out. Ask for a beer and olives, and Fort Tiracol’s thoughtful servers will remind you that you have tumbled into a sepia-coloured time of yore. In the belt of beaches that make up Ashwem and Morjim lie Palm Grove Cottages (palmgrovegoa.com) aka my beach oice. I’m here most mornings, tanking up on their excellent coffee, plotting stories and the death of all my exes. Palm Grove’s understated cement and wood cottages by the beach are a telegram to other shack owners and hoteliers in the neighbourhood that this could—and should—be standard (sadly, it is not; elsewhere, you might end up with semen-soaked sheets and taste-challenged chips). If you’re not quitting carbs, Burger Factory is the scene, with Bandra hipsters and Swedish photographers withslay-me tans and marriage-wrecking abs. Now, whatother reasons do you need to be in Goa?

Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi’s new book, The Rabbit &

The Squirrel (Penguin–Random House) is out in September.


BEYONDCulinary Travel

The behemoth that is Indian cuisine cannot be defined in a single article, let alone a line or two. MARRYAM H RESHII takes you on a journey across the diverse culinary landscape of the country—from the Bengali shukto to the Gujarati thali, the vadis of Amritsar, and the galmo in Goa.

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It was in Coorg that I had my epiphany about the souring agents that are used in that vast, unfathomable entity called Indian food. I was eating a dish of fried aubergines at the homestead of a friend, Kavita Muthappa, and a rich,

sweet-sour flavour took me by surprise. It was almost like the reduction of an aged red wine. It suffused the dish of a humble vegetable that I am not even particularly fond of, and made it taste ambrosial. Outside, the rain drummed steadily on the tin rooftop, as it had been doing relentlessly all day and most of the previous night, making the slopes of Kavita’s coffee estate too slippery to walk on.

Coorg, in the southernmost part of Karnataka, just inside the coastal region, is home to a small community, the Kodavas, who are believed to have descended from the army of Alexander the Great. Their cuisine contains a good deal of red meat, particularly pork, but it was the delicacy

United by FOOD


of kachampuli—the vinegar made from garcinia, the fruit of a tree that grows along the western coast—that fascinated me. In Goa, garcinia is used in a sun-dried form. And the related species that is found further south, in Kerala, is dried in a contraption made of coconut husks set afire, to give it a slightly smoky taste. The other state where garcinia grows is Assam. There, it is called thekera and is used in a cold drink, among other things. Kachampuli exemplifies the sheer breadth of Indian food to me. It is an ingredient that is at once dynamic—changing form with the way it is processed and used, and yet unknown to the majority of India.

If one were to characterise Indian food in a single word, it would probably be ‘thali’. That steel platter with its six or seven katoris contains what Ayurveda deems are the six tastes: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent, and astringent. Wherever in India you travel, a thali restaurant will offer you endless regional variations of these tastes. West Bengal may have a dry vegetable preparation called shukto (bitter), and Gujarat may have several katoris with various preparations with an identical degree of sweetness, but analyse the ingredients keenly and you will see that each taste is represented in a thali.

Of course, ingredients and preferences differ from one part of the country to another, but there are a few commonalities: lentils and vegetables are eaten by almost everyone, with some communities eating them with cottage cheese and whole-wheat flatbreads for most of their lives, while others thrive on fish, red meat, or poultry, with as little lentils and vegetables as they can get away with. The southern five states, in addition to West Bengal and Kashmir, eat rice, while wheat is eaten in the rest of the country.

In the seventh largest country in the world that hosts the second biggest population, the food is far beyond what a single definition can encapsulate. The wonder is that while each of the 36 states and C

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Clockwise from top left: A coffee estate in Coorg; the garcinia fruit is used to make a sweet-sour cold drink in Assam; moong dal halwa; all the elements of this thali are made of lentils.Opposite, from top: A plate of kadhai gosht; the rich culinary offerings of Lucknow are limited to kebabs and a few other street specialities in contemporary India’s imagination.

union territories has its own set of cuisines based on geography, faith, and ethnicity, a first-time visitor to the country would identify each one as Indian, though the ingredients and methods of cooking in one region may not be familiar to a person from another. Certainly, the Namboodri from Kerala and the Pandit from Kashmir have hardly any similarity in their food habits, even though both of them are Hindu Brahmins. One eschews any form of meat; the other eats mutton regularly, though neither community uses onion or garlic in the preparation, and both make extensive use of asafoetida. A Muslim from Kerala would have more commonalities with a person of another religious faith in Kerala than a Muslim from, say, Bhopal. And a Christian family living anywhere in coastal Andhra Pradesh would not find the fish curry, rice, and vegetable meal of a co-religionist from coastal Kerala palatable, leave alone familiar. Andhra Pradesh uses tamarind in their fish curry but no coconut, and a high level of red chillies; in Kerala, fish tamarind is


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BEYONDCulinary Travel

used, the base of a fi sh curry is always coconut, and the spice level is far lower. I myself have been subjected to the embarrassment of my Chennai-based guide refusing to eat lunch with me in Central Kerala because the rice was boiled. I wanted to ask them how they knew: I certainly cannot make out the diff erence. Here, I am referring to the paddy being boiled in the husk, not cooking rice in the kitchen to eat them.

“I have a surprise for you,” Chef Rahul Gomes Pereira of Jamun, Delhi’s hip regional Indian restaurant, tells me on the phone, almost incoherent with delight. He has just returned from a trip to his home, Divar, an island in Goa, where he did some shopping at the Mapusa Market. When I visit his restaurant in a leafy neighbourhood of South Delhi, I am greeted with a ‘cake’ made up of tiny shrimps. The cake is called galmo, and because it requires a lot of care to make, hardly anybody in Goa bothers with it anymore. The aristocratic families of yore who used it in their preparations of shrimp turnovers

Clockwise, from top:A Gujarati thali consists numerous bowls of curries, appetisers, and sweets; a chilli farm in Andhra Pradesh; paneer fritters use a besan coating.

(apar de camarao) and xacuti, are too small a minority in today’s Goa. However, Chef Gomes Pereira has made a portion of prawn balchao for me. Rich in Goan chillies and toddy vinegar, it has the depth of fl avour that I remember from my childhood holidays in the family village.

Galmo, and dried fi sh and prawns in general, came about in the tiny state because of a general consensus that there was to be no sea-fi shing during the monsoon months. That was the period when the fi sh used to spawn. So, while shark, mackerel, and pomfret are aplenty in the markets around the year, during the June-September period, it is dried fi sh, pickled brined fi sh, and dried shrimp that are eaten. Galmo requires expertise, but the rest just sunshine.

The sweep of the Indian subcontinent includes mountains, foothills, alluvial plains, sandy deserts, plateaus, coastal belts, and river deltas. Yet it is not only geography that aff ects regional cuisines, but culture, climate, and tradition too. One example is the drying of ingredients that takes place in many parts. Like fi sh, vegetables are dried in the Kashmir Valley. It started back in the days when heavy snowfall was a certainty, which closed the highway that connects Kashmir to the rest of the country in winters. In autumn, every household would dry mushrooms, turnips, tomatoes, bottle gourd, and aubergines by stringing them up in garlands that would be hung out on walls till the water content had dried, thereby increasing the shelf life. Global warming and an ei cient maintenance of the highway has done away with the need for drying vegetables, but they are still considered a delicacy by people of a certain age.

While vegetables are dried in Kashmir, lentils are ground, mixed with a spice or two, and dried in the sun after moulding them in meticulous shapes in two states: Rajasthan and Punjab. In western Rajasthan, it started due to sheer need. The sandy Thar desert is where even the most hardy vegetable needs to be coaxed out of the ground, so lentil mangodis made from moong dal make a healthy meal, especially when clubbed


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Lentil mangodis make for a healthy snack in Rajasthan.

with hardy desert beans like ker sangri or the dairy products for which western Rajasthan is famous. Punjab is called the land of the fi ve rivers and the wheat bowl of India because of its fertile soil, so an emergency measure like urad dal vadis

makes little sense. However, the market around the Golden Temple in Amritsar is crammed with shops selling vadis with black pepper spicing. Why the verdant West Bengal needs to have rations like boris is even less clear, but the dainty urad dal dumplings are eaten here as a fried morsel in a meal or in a fi sh curry, in which the bori picks up the fl avour of the gravy. You would fi nd a gayna

bori only in the state of West Bengal, where boris are piped from a nozzle in the shape of jewellery, combining form and function. A generation or two ago, they would be made on the terrace of buildings where a bride was preparing to get married. Homemakers from the neighbourhood would sing songs and prepare enough boris to fi ll a small trunk for the bride to take to her new home.

Mangodis, vadis, and boris apart, lentils are perhaps the most frequently occurring ingredients across the country. Whole and husked moong dal deep-fried and slathered over with powdered spices, the soupy lentil in our katori at dinner time, paneer pakoras covered with besan (made from chickpeas), the sweet moong dal halwa and besan barfi : I challenge you to stay completely away from all lentils, in all forms, for a whole week. It cannot be done.

However, if there is one set of ingredients that is vital to the entire panoply of Indian cuisine, it is spice. Not all the 20 or so commonly used spices originate from India: the Indonesian archipelago and the Eastern Mediterranean have been the cradle from where many spices started out life millennia ago (except Bolivia where chilli originated). But India is the largest aggregate producer and consumer of spice in the world, notwithstanding that individual spices may be produced in larger quantities elsewhere. (Canada is the world’s largest grower of mustard.) Cumin, coriander, turmeric, and red chilli are used in combination with each other in many other parts of Asia. However, no other country in the world uses spice with as much fl air as we do, whether for culinary purposes or religious (bathing idols in

saff ron and writing the Om symbol with turmeric on vehicles and door-posts). Most spices have medicinal benefi ts, apart from their culinary advantages. Ayurveda has spelled out the health benefi ts of turmeric, black pepper, carom seeds (all native to India), as well as cumin, green cardamom, and fenugreek. In addition to cooking with them, many patients of diabetes and high blood pressure use them to aid their vitals.

While it would probably be correct to say that no Indian stays free of spice, using a matrix of spices has become the hallmark of one cuisine: that of Lucknow. Lucknavi cuisine was the post-Mughal empire preserve of nobles who set up court in the city. Their preoccupation with the good life resulted in a remarkable attention to the arts, where architecture, culture, and cuisine prospered. Every course received lavish attention, from kebabs and korma to biryani and vegetables. Old families in the city still keep a meticulous table, and one of the hallmarks of their cuisine is the unparalleled use of spice.

Charles de Gaulle once asked rhetorically, “How can you govern a country that has 246 varieties of cheese?” I think he would have been rendered speechless had he visited India. ▪

Reshii is a veteran food writer and the author of

The Flavour of Spice (Hachette).

Green Cardamom Turmeric Fenugreek Cumin Black Pepper Carom Seeds

FOOD FOR THOUGHTAyurveda has spelled out health returns from almost all spices used extensively in Indian cuisine.


BEYONDVintage India

The best travel tales emerge from making discoveries you leastexpect, finds SHIKHA PUSHPAN during her recent trip to Lucknow. DE

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The downside of being a frequent flier is that it takes away the small joys of travelling—boarding a plane becomes a dull

routine, fancy hotel rooms fail to impress, and exploring a new city is often restricted to following set itineraries. During my recent trip to Lucknow, I found myself drowning in this whirlwind of thoughts when I chanced upon a colourful graiti that

said, “Muskuraiye, aap Lucknow mein

hain! (Smile, you’re in Lucknow!)”

And just like that, I found myself

grinning ear to ear. This is the thing

with the City of Nawabs—it surprises

you at the least likely of moments.

The new Hyatt Regency Lucknow

in Gomti Nagar was my home for

the next two days as I went about the

city looking for stories. Located in

the heart of Vibhuti Khand, the Hyatt

outpost is among the fresh crop of

five-star hotels that are reshaping

the city into a luxury destination.

My den, the Regency Executive

Suite, looked out to a fast-evolving

cityscape of Gomti Nagar, a place that

is increasingly being compared to

Gurugram for its swanky roads and

mushrooming corporate houses.

About 10 kilometres away unfolds

the legacy of one of Lucknow’s

prominent architects, Major General

Claude Martin. “A multi-faceted

personality, Martin was one of the most

colourful characters in 18th-century

India, but strangely one of the least

known,” said my guide, Mohammad

Saddam, as we took an (unoicial)

detour to explore a recently discovered

underground tunnel and waterway at

Curious Caseof

The

Claude Martin


THE DETAILS

GETTING THERE Lucknow is connected to major Indian cities by many airlines. The Chaudhary Charan Singh International Airport is 20 minutes from Hyatt Regency Lucknow.

STAYThe recently launched Hyatt Regency

Lucknow enjoys a sweet spot in the Vibhuti Khund area of Gomti Nagar. Its proximity to the High Court, multiple government buildings, and city attractions makes it a good bet for both, business and leisure travellers. It offers 206 rooms including 19 suites. The Regency Club rooms and suites come with access to the Regency Club that serves complimentary breakfast, hors d’oeuvres, and cocktails. From

`5,500 in August; hyatt.com

SEELucknow falls on the Uttar Pradesh

(UP) Heritage Arc with Agra and Varanasi. The state tourism board (uptourism.gov.in) organises heritage walks through Old Lucknow, covering major city attractions like Bara Imambara, Kaiserbagh, Rumi Darwaza, Husainabad Clock Tower, Gol Darwaza, Chowk Bazaar, Phool Wali Gali, Akbari Darwaza, Lal Pul, etc. If you’re staying at the Hyatt Regency Lucknow, a concierge can arrange a tour with a certified guide.

EXPERIENCEGet a first-hand account of Lucknow royalty in a conversation with Jaffar Mir

Abdullah. Though his connection with the erstwhile royal family of Awadh has been contested, guests can get an inside account of the city’s history and learn a thing or two about Lucknawi tehzeeb over tea with Abdullah at his modest home, adorned with vintage artefacts.

SHOPStreet shopping is the lay of the land in Lucknow. The Chowk Area is a vibrant market place selling everything from chikan textiles to attar. Sugandhco (D4-

GF, Janpath Market) even customises the attar as per the customer’s preference; a 500 ml bottle can cost anywhere between `500 and `12,000. Hazratgang Market is a good place to pick up chikan apparel. You can also visit Nakhas Market to buy zardozi creations and exquisite silver jewellery. A good souvenir is the paan-daan, an ornate box used to serve paan in earlier times.

FEASTBasket chaat at Royal Cafe (9/7, Shahnajaf Road) in Hazratganj Market is an absolute must-have. A generous assortment of 25 ingredients, the street-side dish is a riot of flavours. If you’re looking for fine dining options, LukJin at Hyatt Regency Lucknow is a good bet for Thai and Chinese dishes. The lounge bar, UP’s, serves some of the best cocktails in town.F

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Clockwise, from top: The all-day diner at Hyatt Regency Lucknow, Rocca, features live kitchens; the hotel’s spa uses local accents to create a warm ambience; Chattar Manzil as seen in 1951; a portrait of Claude Martin. Opposite, from left: Rumi Darwaza is the gateway to Old Lucknow; LukJin serves sumptuous Chinese cuisine.

the twin heritage structures—Chattar Manzil and Kothi Farhat Baksh—in Old Lucknow. After a quick drive past the imposing façade of Rumi Darwaza, the Residency, and a couple of other city landmarks, we arrived at the Chattar Manzil palace complex, where vine-covered walls were the last standing testimony to the opulent past of its former residents.

Designed and built by Major General Martin, the two buildings are among the finest specimens of Indo-European architecture in Lucknow. These heritage structures had faded into oblivion until recently when a team of conservationists unearthed an extensive network of tunnels and corridors in their basement, exposing a previously unknown aspect of the lives of the Nawabs who called it home, including Saadat Ali Khan and Wajid Ali Khan. It is believed that these waterways connected the palace to a structure on the River Gomti that was destroyed in floods. This is probably where the rulers spent leisure time, reading and chalking out strategies for their kingdom. “I witnessed the [discovery of] water myself when these excavations took place in 2015. The house chanelled water from River Gomti to cool its rooms. There were boats parked in the basement, and no one knew about it all these years. The Archaeological Survey of India

(ASI) and state tourism board are hoping to find more chambers when they carry out further digging,” Saddam said, adding that it was likely the tunnels were connected to other 18th- and 19th-century buildings in the city.


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At the heart of this architectural marvel is thegenius of Major General Claude Martin. Half polymathand half adventurer, Martin has as many admirers asdetractors. He started off as a porter in Paris, beforejoining the French army as a soldier, and later, theEast India Company’s force in India. The switchin loyalty happened after the siege of Pondicherry.He rose through the ranks in India to eventuallycommand the cavalry of the Nawabs of Awadh. Bornin Lyon, France, Martin was considered a man of wideinterests and exceptional abilities. He introducedFrench architecture in Lucknow and quickly becamethe blue-eyed boy of the Nawabs. His proximity tothe rulers got him contracts to build structures thatare prominent landmarks today, like the GovernorHouse (Raj Bhavan) and Constantia. “He used to livethe life of a Muslim prince, but with interests of andtastes matching a Renaissance man. Among otherthings, Major General Martin was a botanist, indigofarmer, surveyor, hot air balloonist, and ace gambler.He turned his life around from being a porter tobecome the richest European in Lucknow at the time,”said Saddam, almost reverentially. The Frenchman’sailment and death, too, weren’t devoid of adventure.Martin was diagnosed with bladder stones andchose to operate upon himself based on referencesfrom medical journals. Though the surgery seemedsuccessful initially, he died a few years later in 1800.His life is set to be celebrated at a proposed museum

Clockwise, from left: The swimming pool area is a lovely space to spend your evening; Royal Café uses 25 ingredients to make its famous Basket Chaat; the hotel’s rooms are done in warm shades of grey and beige.

Hyatt Regency Lucknow uses local accents, such as brass and jali artwork, at its restaurants and lounge to represent the city’s history.

in the Chattar Manzil complex, where, at present, workers go about the task of restoring the heritage structure to its previous glory, oblivious to the trove of stories ensconced within its walls.

Back at the hotel, I was greeted with a generous spa ritual, Shila Abhyanga, which worked wonders on my tired feet after all the walking through silt and grime. Relaxed and rejuvenated, I was up for another bout of adventure; however, this time within the walls of LukJin, the hotel’s speciality restaurant. And boy, was it a revelation! The hotel staff insisted that I try the Blooming or Flowering Tea—an offering that’s quickly become the talk of the town. I watched in awe as a green tea bud, the size of a golf ball, bloomed into a fist-sized jasmine flower when put in warm water. While you’re still captivated by the visual treat before you, be assured, the tea tastes as good as it looks. Like I said, the City of Nawabs throws a surprise at you just when you think you’ve seen it all. ▪


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BEYONDWild Encounters

Nature-loving travellers are making an impact by collaborating with scientists in the field. On a visit to Peru’s rainforest, JOHN WRAY

collects tiger moths by moonlight, dodges fruit bats and giant beetles, and studies the world’s most beautiful birds—all while enjoying the

comforts of a simple but stylish lodge.

Call of the Wild

Macaws in the Tambopata National Reserve, an area of protected rainforest in Peru.

I WAS STUCK IN THE MUD WHEN THE WILD PIGS ARRIVED.

It wasn’t just any mud: it was Amazonian mud, in one of the wildest stretches of rain forest a boat can safely reach. I had come to the Tambopata National Reserve, over 2,500 protected square kilometres in southeastern Peru, on a visit organised by Rainforest Expeditions, a tour operator that owns and manages lodges where travellers can experience the biodiversity of the region while assisting the scientists

working there. I was looking at a band-tailed manakin, a bird the size of a teacup and the colour of sunset, putting on a show for a prospective mate. It crossed my mind, as I watched the manakin displaying its plumage, that I’d never seen anything more beautiful.

Then I caught the scent of the pigs. The day before, I had travelled by plane from Lima to the rainforest city of Puerto Maldonado, where I met my guide, Silverio Duri. On the four-hour boat ride from Infierno, an indigenous settlement, to the Tambopata Research Center, the lodge where I would spend the next two nights, Silverio had cautioned me about the pigs—white-lipped peccaries, to be exact. “They’re generally harmless,” he told me, “but don’t get in the way of a herd. Their tusks are sharp as razors.”

“Razors,” I repeated, trying to sound casual. “Okay.”

“If they surround you, bonk them on the nose.”

This tip should have made an impression on me. I quickly forgot it, however, dining on chicken in coca sauce and sipping passion-fruit nectar on my first night at TRC’s ecotourism accommodations. The spectacular macaws for which this region is famous distracted me as well, to say nothing of the half-dozen species of monkey whose howls echoed through the forest. Though great care has been taken in the design of the centre’s thatch-roofed suites, which have tropical wood floors and décor by indigenous artists, visitors come for the wildlife, and the management knows it. The mosquito netting of my canopy bed was all that separated me


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BEYONDWild Encounters

from the jungle. Visions of jaguars, which canoccasionally be seen in Tambopata, danced in myhead until dawn. Peccaries, not so much.

Now, up to my shins in muck, I rememberedSilverio’s warning. The smell of the pigs hit mefirst: a musty pong that reminded me of certainNew York subway cars in summer. By the timethe first one came into view, the smell was sooverpowering that I felt almost drunk. Silveriowhispered to keep absolutely still: he wanted tosee how close the herd would come before wespooked them. Very close, it turned out. Suddenlythey were everywhere, hundreds of them,grunting and clacking their tusks, flowing aroundus like a river.

Encounters with peccaries, monkeys,capybaras, and other creatures are common

in Tambopata, but the reserve is particularlyrenowned for its clay licks: areas of exposedearth, generally along a riverbank, wherea variety of jungle animals gather to ingestclay. The TRC is the only permanent humanhabitation permitted in the reserve, having beengrandfathered when the area became oiciallyprotected in 2000. Biologists had been studyingthe ecology of the nearby clay licks for 16 years bythen, attempting to understand the significanceof the greasy pink clay to the metabolism of themonkeys, parakeets, and macaws that risk theirlives to feed on it in broad daylight, in plain viewof potential predators. The likely answer turnsout to be fairly straightforward—the clay is highin sodium and other vital minerals. At feedingtime, the sight of hundreds of birds clingingraucously to the riverbank in a fluttering curtainof primary colour borders on the psychedelic.

Silverio woke me before dawn on my firstmorning at Tambopata, and we took a boat, witha handful of other ornithologically mindedguests, to a wooded bluff a stone’s throw from

the reserve’s most famous lick. It wasn’t long before thebirds started coming, in a trickle at first, then in a deluge.Gaudy though they are, parrots and macaws are hard to seein the jungle, generally keeping to the higher strata of thecanopy, where they look black or grey against the sky. But atthe clay licks they crowded against one another likecommuters, jostling and screeching between greedymouthfuls. Sitting comfortably on a folding campstool,feasting my eyes on the spectacle and my stomach onpassion-fruit pound cake, I felt as decadent as it’s possibleto feel in the middle of the wilderness.

Impact-conscious tourism in the Amazon has seen aboom in recent years, but Rainforest Expeditions offersnature lovers an experience few competitors can match: thechance to collaborate with a biologist doing cutting-edgework in the field. Through the company’s Wired Amazonseries of projects, visitors can use camera traps to studynighttime jaguar movements or drone footage to track thereproductive status of Brazil-nut trees, then follow theproject from home and continue contributing to its database.

The term for this type of tourist-scientist collaboration,which has been put into practice in regions as far-flung asNew Zealand and Norway, is citizen science, and the expertsare as excited about the possibilities as the guests. “Researchin the Amazon is expensive, and government funding, especially in the US, is as endangered as the animals we study,” Alex Borisenko, a Canadian biodiversity specialist I met at breakfast, told me. “Citizen science is looking more and more like the future of fieldwork. It’s also fun.”

At the Refugio Amazonas, a Rainforest Expeditions lodge located just outside the reserve, guests can assist Juan

A suite at Refugio Amazonas, a 32-room lodge that is a hub for

tourism-driven research.

STUDY ELEPHANTS IN KENYA

On this expedition with EarthWatch Institute, an organisation that supports fieldwork around the world, travellers study human-animal conflict, helping farmers protect crops while minimising the impact of agriculture on native elephants. 12-day trips from `2,05,700; earthwatch.org

MAP CORAL REEFS IN OMAN

Musandam, a rocky exclave jutting into the Persian Gulf, is home to a little-studied reef ecosystem. With Biosphere Expeditions, scuba-certified travellers can stay on a research boat, conducting survey dives and synthesising data that directly inform conservation. Seven-day trips from ̀ 1,90,250; biosphere-expeditions.org

MONITOR SIBERIAN TIGERS

There are only about 530 of these animals left in the world. For Natural World Safaris, conservationist Alexander Batalov leads small groups to set and collect camera traps to document the animals’ movements. Seven-day trips from ̀ 2,16,360; naturalworldsafaris.com

FIND TREASURE IN PUERTO RICO

Para la Naturaleza manages dozens of nature reserves on the island and books free citizen-science activities like wildlife censuses and forestry seminars. Travellers can help unearth artefacts from a pre-Columbian site in the Cabezas de San Juan nature reserve. paralanaturaleza.org. —HANNAH WALHOUT

MORE CITIZEN-SCIENCE ADVENTURES

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Grados Arauco—an entomologist at Lima’s Museum of Natural History—in collecting specimens of tiger moth. They even have the opportunity, should one of the moths prove to be unknown to science, to give the new species its name. I felt slightly inclined to roll my eyes at this, until I was informed that 11 new tiger moths had been recorded in the past 16 months. Then I wanted to find my own.

The night I worked with Juan, we trooped through the twilit forest in clunky rubber boots to the collection site. We hadn’t been there long before a glossy black projectile hit me heavily on the thigh as I was collecting moths from a “light trap,” which is basically a white sheet hung between trees with a lamp behind it. I was startled to find a baseball-size bug preparing to wage war with my heel.

“Rhino beetle!” Juan said, as wonder-struck as I was. He gingerly removed it from my boot and showed me the surprisingly delicate wings hidden under its shell. I’ve had a mild phobia of insects since childhood, but that night I was too fascinated to care. As we continued to gather specimens, some bound for the national collection back in Lima, Juan described watching from the branches of an ironwood tree as a stream of army ants flowed past, devouring everything organic in its path. It’s a testament to his gift for arousing scientific curiosity that I listened with a twinge of envy.

Left: The red cracker butterfly is found throughout South America. Bottom: The 350-kilometre-long River Tambopata winds through the heart of the Tambopata National Reserve.

It’s a cliché that we travel to forget our mundane lives in exotic locales. But I, for one, travel to recover

the past: to be knocked back to the person I was at eight, when I hadn’t a doubt that the world beyond our flyover town was as action-packed and strange as adventure novels made it seem. This inner time travel doesn’t happen often, but my encounter with the peccaries was one such moment.

The vast herd thundered past, but didn’t scare off the tiny birds above us. The jewel-like male manakin continued its show on that low-hanging branch, a dot of resplendent calm in all the tumult. I stood rooted in place, catching snatches of its song.

Suddenly a fruit bat appeared, its wingspan as long as my arm, startled from its daytime sleep by the arrival of the pigs. It circled us in silent panic, close enough that I could feel the beat of its wings. This was exactly how, as an eight-year-old, I’d imagined the rainforest: a continuous pageant, so teeming with life that there was barely space for one more living creature. Here was the jungle of my childhood imagination, in all its fluttering, grunting, twittering, stinking glory. I may never wash that pink mud off my shoes. ▪

Fly into Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima, then transfer to Padre Aldamiz International Airport in Puerto Maldonado. Rainforest Expeditions (perunature.com) operates both Refugio Amazonas (Doubles from ̀ 39,700; two nights minimum) and the more remote Tambopata Research Center (Doubles from ̀ 43,124; three nights minimum). The cost includes meals, activities, river transportation, and transfer to and from Puerto Maldonado; alcoholic beverages cost extra. Your luggage should weigh no more than 15 kgs. Bring long-sleeve cotton shirts and pants, hiking boots, a broad-brimmed hat, rain gear, sunblock, insect repellent, and slippers or sandals to wear around the lodges. Vaccinations for hepatitis, typhoid, and yellow fever are recommended. Aracari (aracari.com), a Lima-based tour company, can incorporate visits to the lodges into a longer Peruvian itinerary.

VISITING THE TAMBOPATA RESERVE


BEYONDRoad Trip

The United Kingdom drives on the left side of theroad, just like India. But that’s about as muchsimilarity as you’ll fi nd between the two countries’ roads. BUNNY PUNIA takes the Mercedes-AMG C43 for a spin from Barnstaple to Newquay.

Cruising theEnglish way

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There are two ways to reach Barnstaple from Kettering—the quicker one includes a series of motorways, but the scenic option passes through countryside stretches via the ‘A’ roads. I took the latter, of course, driving with the sunroof open as the cool breeze made the summer sun bearable. My fi rst pit-stop was Stevenage, where a hot Indian meal awaited me, thanks to a childhood friend’s great choice of place to settle at. By early noon, I was back on the road for the four-hour drive to Barnstaple. You cover ground rapidly in countries like the UK, courtesy of generous speed limits (112 km/h on roads with a divider and 96 km/h on others). This, coupled with excellent road manners, means that it is easy to cover 90 kilometres every hour without even trying. But when you are new to a country, you want to capture as

► HEATHROW TO BARNSTAPLE

320 kms / 3.5 hours

via M4, M5, A361

► BARNSTAPLE TO NEWQUAY DIRECT

120 kms / 1.5 hours

via A39, but we

recommend taking

detours towards the

beach and inner roads.

► NEWQUAY TO HEATHROW

380 kms / 4 hours

via A30, A303, M3

ROUTE

Freedom means diff erent things to diff erent people. For me, it translates into solo road trips, which help me escape from the daily 9-to-5 grind and explore new destinations

with breathtaking vistas at my own pace. In June this year, my voyage was on the scenic ocean route from Barnstaple to Newquay in the United Kingdom in one of the best performance saloons in the world—the Mercedes-AMG C43.

My oi cial reason to be in the UK was to attend the MGLive! 2018 at the holy grail of motorsports in the country, the Silverstone Circuit. But post the weekend craze, it was time to unwind and explore the countryside. The road trip started at Kettering, which was my base for the weekend, and it was here that Mercedes-Benz UK delivered the stunning AMG C43.

From above: Excellent road conditions and generous speed limits mean you cover 90 kms an hour without any effort; Fistral Beach is one of the most popular surfi ng destinations in the UK.Opposite, from top: A 17th-century post mill; the Mercedes-Benz is a delight to drive on both, motorways and countryside roads.


BEYONDRoad Trip

the dark with the optional performance exhaust of the AMG C43 belting out the purest form of motoring music echoing through the countryside.

Day two began on a late note. I overslept, thanks to a rather cosy, homely Airbnb apartment. A typical English breakfast wasn’t my cup of tea, so I opted for an early brunch at the beaches of Barricane, Woolacombe, and Putsborough. These three touristy spots are located one after another and make for the perfect pit-stop, thanks to multiple cafes and ample secluded spots to sunbathe at. With my fish-and-chips packed (you cannot ignore this British meal, can you?), I journeyed onwards on my ocean route but not without a detour—the narrow and challenging Challacombe hill road that rewarded me with a splendid view of lush green valleys. These places also allow you to enjoy a car like the AMG C43 as the winding roads invite you to put the car through its paces while enjoying all those crackles, pop-corns, and burbles via the exhaust.

The A39 leading to Newquay offers its own share of views. There are ample detours going down to the ocean side, but I had already experienced that aspect. Laid-back roadside cafes are rare, but if you do find one, stop and bite into local delicacies. I was also surprised by the number of windmills, including a pretty vintage one, which proved very Instagrammable.

Set by the Atlantic Ocean, Newquay is a surfer’s paradise. The town is pretty big and has an old-world charm infused in its architecture. My overnight accommodation here

many vistas as possible and end up stopping a lot. There are designated parking stops by the highway for this.

Barnstaple is often referred to as the oldest borough in the UK, situated just a few kilometres away from the Bristol Channel. Days being extremely long in June, daylight persisted till 9 pm, and I continued to the famous Watermouth Castle, a 200-year-old structure that now houses holiday apartments. Contrary to old architectural marvels in India, this one was spic and span, and provided the perfect combination—old British architecture with modern German engineering.

With less than an hour left for sunset, I made a quick dash to a popular vantage point for a bird’s-eye view of the Hele Bay and the little town of Ilfracombe. What better way to start an ocean run than wide views of the open sea and beach-side cliffs. The drive back to Barnstaple was in

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was quite different, as I wanted to experience the communal nature of hostel life and mingle with tourists from around the world. By 3 pm, I had parked the Mercedes and embarked on a walk—first to Huer’s Hut, a 14th-century lookout that overlooks the Newquay Bay. It’s a beautiful, windy location that also serves as the starting point for numerous picturesque walks. One such walk took me to the Fistral Beach, considered one of the most popular surfing beaches in the UK. The town area satiated my shopping urges and hunger pangs.

With my flight back to India scheduled in the afternoon the next day and a 400-kilometre drive ahead of me, it was wise to leave early in the

morning. And although speeding cameras are common on both ‘A’ roads and motorways, I could not resist the temptation of testing the 362 horsepower of the 3.0-litre V6 engine beneath my car’s hood. That last day saw the C43 push itself to 100 km/h in less time than what it took you to read this sentence. (Just 4.7 seconds to be precise.) With the windows rolled up and the drive mode set to ‘Sports’, I sped along the A30 and later the M3 motorway to Heathrow airport. Speeding tickets come with heavy fines in the UK, and as I type this article, I am filled with anxiety about a possible email from the good folks at Mercedes-Benz UK. Will I need to pay for my driving sins? My fingers are crossed. ▪

Clockwise, from top: Fishing boats at the Newquay harbour; the Red Bar restaurant in Woolacombe; fish and chips for brunch; the Newquay war memorial cross overlooking the sea; the 200-year-old Watermouth Castle near Barnstaple.Opposite, from top: Driving through the lush green countryside on the outskirts of Stevenage; the Kettering Park Hotel and Spa.

► You drive on theleft, just like youdo in India.

► Honking is a big No.

► Change lanes only after giving an indicator.

► Fuel is expensive : `135 per litre

► Fuel stations are self-service. You fill, walk in, and pay.

► Speeding fines are heavy. Stick to the speed limits.

► On a circle, one who is already in the roundabout gets priority.

► Park in designated zones only; most are paid.

► Car rentals from Heathrow are economical, if booked online.

DRIVING TIPS FOR THE UK

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BEYONDQuick Trip

La Serenissima exudes magic and romance like few other European cities can. In the second chapter of a

lasting love affair, MITRAJIT BHATTACHARYA returns to his favourite city for a brief rendezvous.

Two Sunsets VENICE

To say that my first trip to Venice 19years ago left me awestruck wouldnot be an exaggeration. It’s a city thatis unapologetically grandiose andcharming with its old-world vibe. No wonder it epitomises romance

to everyone who touches its shores. I went back to Venice this year, albeit on a short break of 48 hours, to get blown away once again by its beauty and soak in some of that joie de vivre.

While the city does pack in a punch with its labyrinth of culture, architecture, quaint and grand locales, culinary delights, and other surprises, it can also be enjoyed on a short sojourn.

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The Grand Canal flows past the Basilica di Santa

Maria della Salute

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TOUCH DOWN

There is no other city in the world that perches on stilts, with canals snaking through its streets. After almost two decades, I caught my first glimpse of the architectural marvel as the shadow of my small Helvetic Airways flight crisscrossed its canals and landed on the runway of the Marco Polo airport. Venice’s first settlers came from the neighbouring mainland in the Veneto area as they sought refuge from a savage Barbarian invasion. The refugees found their new lives in the lagoon more congenial than they had expected, and over time, the archipelago prospered. Heading to the city centre with no prior planning, I figured out a bus-boat combination that would take me to my destination in 45 minutes. With no time to waste, I also decided to pick up a return bus ticket and a two-day vaporetti

(water bus) ticket for `3,594.

A DATE WITH HISTORY

My first brush with Venice’s remarkable history came at the baroque hotel that I was staying in. The famed Aman Venice, near the Rialto Bridge, is a 16th-century palace, one of over 100 gorgeous buildings that line the historic Grand Canal. With 24 rooms and suites that overlook the canal, the hotel also offers two private gardens—an unusual feature in the city. An evening drink at the garden of Aman, overseeing the Grand Canal, is an experience right out of a movie. No wonder the Clooneys chose the Palazzo Papadopoli (the name for the palace before it was reincarnated as Aman Venice) as the venue of their much-hyped wedding in September 2014.

Brimming with treasures that would be at home in a museum, the Palazzo Papadopoli was once the home of the 18th-century painter Giovanni Domenico Tiepolo, and his frescoes still adorn the walls of many of the rooms. These are not the only historic elements in the property. The Sansovino Stanza room, where I put up, featured a 16th-century fireplace which had been designed by architect-sculptor Jacopo d’Antonio Sansovino.

CULTURE GALORE

Around 1,700-years-old, the city of Venice was at the centre of major stirrings in the European art, music, and political realms. This was ground zero of the Renaissance movement, which later took all of Europe by storm. Widely regarded as the world’s first financial centre, it remains one of Italy’s most important cities

The Charlatan (1756) by Giovanni Domenico Tiepolo, who once lived in Palazzo Papadopoli.

Aman Venice is the reincarnation of a 16th-century palace.


to date. For tourists, it is quite easily the most romantic destination in the world.

Around 150 canals and 400 bridges stand in for road and metro networks in Venice. There is no better way to soak in the city than by strolling along miles of meandering canals and gazing at the beautiful churches, palaces, museums and squares, devouring amazing street food, and shopping for local artisanal products.

My first stop on a leisurely stroll was Saint Mark’s Basilica on Saint Mark’s Square, which is dotted with chic cafes and restaurants. An architectural marvel, the Basilica features over 85,000 square feet of mosaic, enough to cover a couple of soccer fields, mostly done in gold over a period of eight centuries. One can spend hours gazing at the 500-odd columns and capitals, mostly Byzantine, dating between the 5th and the 11th centuries.

After a sumptuous lunch of grilled squids and mackerels from Acqua & Mais, a highly recommended street shop, I headed for the famed Rialto Bridge. Crossing the Grand Canal at its narrowest point, the 400-year-old stone-arch

bridge is armed with some great views and is the most famous selfie spot in the whole of Venice. The vibrant Rialto Market nearby turned out to be a great place to pick up some souvenirs.

DA VINCI’S MACHINES

Trust the locals when they say, there is no easier way to get around in Venice than the vaporetto. With my 48-hours pass in hand, I boarded

BEYONDQuick Trip

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Saint Mark’s Basilica

A tourist boat heads to Torcello island.


a water bus at the Rialto stop to witness theenchanting city from the Grand Canal. Theboat ride was a journey through historical andmodern architecture, as grand buildings like theVenice Casino and contemporary commentarylike sculptor Lorenzo Quinn’s famed Support

glided by, leaving me breathless.After a 15-minute ride, I got off the water

bus to explore the narrow by-lanes and streetcafes that beckoned me, and chanced upon theLeonardo da Vinci Museum, located in the oldtown centre right in front of the Scuola Grande diSan Rocco. The museum houses working modelsmade out of his drawings and plans of machines,including War Machines, Civil Engineering

Machines, Flying Machines, Ideal City andPrinciples of Physics. An art gallery that exhibitedhis major paintings with the use of technologyleft me gaping with child-like wonder.

DINE OUT LIKE A STAR

Whether you stay at the Aman or not, do makea reservation at its Italian restaurant, Arva,for a spectacular dinner curated by Michelin-star chef, Davide Oldani. Dining at Arva was asItalian as it gets. For entrée, some fresh burratawith wild radicchio, red endives, and balsamicwas the perfect antipasti to go with the local

white wine, Tamellini Soave 2016, while themain course was a fancier Saccottini stuffedwith stracciatella, prawns, and oregano. Theclassic tiramisu and coffee offered the perfectend to my star-studded gastronomic experience. If you’re not done in by all the sightseeing, headto one of the bars at Saint Mark’s, like I did.Sipping on a Campari and smoking a Cohibawas my way of capping a rather perfect day inthe ‘floating city’.

ISLAND TOUR

The following day, I decided to go beyond the Grand Canal to go island-hopping in the archipelago. Fondamente Nove is the embarking point for boats that go to Murano, Burano, and Torcello. It looked far on the map that I held up as a typical tourist on the streets, but the spot turned out to be a 10-minute walk from the Rialto Bridge. Of all the things I saw, the sight that shines brightest in memory is that of the beautiful coloured houses of the fishermen at Burano. If island-hopping makes you weary, head to Bar Longhi at The Gritti Palace on your return. Known to serve the best Bellini in town, the bar always leaves you in high spirits. An emotion I desperately needed as dusk neatly draped the city of canals and I realised that my second Venetian adventure was about to end. But as with all tumultuous love affairs, I promised to return soon. Perhaps not alone this time. ▪

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GETTING THERE

The Marco Poloairport is well-connected to all majorEuropean cities. It islocated 12 kms awayfrom the city and canbe reached by both,road and canal. Thosecoming by bus arriveat Piazzale Roma.From there, you need to take a water bus to the city centre. The most preferred mode to reach Venice is the train, which ferries passengers from different European cities to the Santa Lucia railway station.

STAY

Try to find a place near Saint Mark’s Square. Aman Venice offers opulent stays in a palace. From `91,866; aman.com

SEASON

Venice has relatively moderate weather, but there’s rain nearly all year round. To avoid large crowds, spring and autumn are the best seasons to visit.

THE DETAILS

Ponte della Paglia is one of 400 bridges in Venice.

The signature preparation of sarde polenta at Acqua & Mais.


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AUGUST 2018

DISCOVER AN ANCIENT

FORTRESS IN

INDIAp. 70

MEET THE ORANGUTANS

IN DEEP

SUMATRAp. 82

SURVIVE THE UNTAMED

WILDERNESS OF

ZAMBIAp. 90

Lionesses nap on a tree in Kafue National Park, Zambia.


The shrubs grow freely at the foot of the fort, bestowing a poetic quality.

On Diana: Dress by Rajesh Pratap Singh, price on request.

PRODUCED BY ANWESHA SANYAL

PHOTOGR APHED BY TARAS TARAPORVALA

ST YLED BY AKANKSHA PANDEY

HAIR AND MAKE UP BY ELTON J FERNANDEZ

THE

As Diana Penty discovers the hidden corners

of Alila Fort Bishangarh, ANWESHA SANYAL

explores how two strong female characters—

one a resurrected fortress, the other an

actor—have stood the test of time

and towered over the milieu with

grandeur and humility.

the years of travel to Rajasthan’s fort hotels have taught me anything,

t is that no matter how tangible the narrative is in the beginning, one can

never quite comprehend the make of a fort. Walk into one armed with

centuries of history, and you will still stand dazed, wondering how it was

build such high walls on a hill without modern technology, and how the

as survived time, weather, and man.

Three hours from Delhi by car or one hour from the Jaipur airport—it was

easy math, and I chose the former. We drove endlessly on a peak summer

afternoon in search of Bishangarh’s new crown jewel, an Alila fort property,

until Gurugram’s commercial hub faded away in the rear-view mirror, leaving

the scorched highway, a landscape of unfinished flyovers, and a singular

unflinching mirage leading the way.

A sudden detour led us into a village, then another, and as I chanted, “We’re

almost there,” in my head, I got the first glimpse of it, still a good two miles away.

Fort Bishangarh towered over a village, sitting on the edge of a granite hill with the

Aravallis in the background. The village road melted into the fort’s entrance; the car

crawled higher and higher, right to the doorstep of Alila Fort Bishangarh.

To give you a little backstory: in 1445, Rao Shekha, the first ruler of the

Shekhawati dynasty, was born to Rao Mokal Amar, the chieftain of the Amer Fort

and his seventh wife, Rani Nirman. At the age of 12, Rao Shekha succeeded his

father. At 16, his success in the battles of Nagarchal, Saiwar, and Multhan impressed

Raja Udaikaran so much that he conferred Rao Shekha with the title of Maha Rao.

His power grew considerably over the next few years until he founded Amarsar, a

town where he would operate out of, and where he’d later built the Shikhagarh Fort.

Fort Bishangarh was built much later, by his successors, as the first line of defense

against northern enemies.

Until about a decade ago, the fort was in a dilapidated condition. Then, the present

heir of the family, Rajendra Singh Shekhawat, partnered with Alila to restore the

property and convert it into a boutique hotel. Today, 59 contemporary rooms and

suites occupy eight floors of the fort and surround a magnificent central courtyard.

Large bay windows in the suites look out to the Aravallis flanking three sides of the

sleepy little village of Bishangarh. The wind carries faint village sounds up to the

fortress, and down below, the Havelli (the arrival tent of the hotel) patiently waits

for its incoming guests. Inside the suite and out, a confluence of Rajput and Mughal

aesthetic adorns the window sills, the door knockers, and the walls; in the corridors,

paintings and photographs reflect the spirit of the village the hotel wants to embody.

As a young history student, I always associated fortresses with secret passages.

In a first, this fantasy was realised here. The fort was furnished with three elevators,

each accessible from a different part of the floor and hidden from plain sight, and not

all taking you to every floor. This became a fabulous opportunity to sneak around and

blame the elevators for being an intruder, tiptoeing around empty, dim-lit corridors

and through doors that led you practically nowhere. On one occasion, I snuck up a

narrow staircase that looked like it would bring me to a clearing outside the fort, only

to discover (most embarrassingly) that it led me further in, to a vacant room. When I

turned to get back down, I found a concierge standing patiently to escort me back—

he thought I had gotten lost.

Next day, I traded the fort exploration for some botany lessons. At 7 am, Chef

Lokendra Singh Shekhawat arrived for a tour of the hotel’s organic garden. This

was no ‘garden’, I found out a short while later, but a farm! Here, they grew every


This dramatic entrance to the fort sets the mood for your stay at Alila Fort Bishangarh.

On her: Jacket and kurta, Raw Mango, ̀ 85,000; pants, ZORAYA, ̀ 8,500; shoes, Rosso Brunello, ̀ 4,999.

The ornate entrance to the Kachhawa Lounge shows a confluence of Mughal and Rajput architecture.

On her: Shirt, Raw Mango, `10,800; jacket, Pero, price on request; pants, ZORAYA, `6,400; earrings, Outhouse, `6,500; shoes, Christian Louboutin, `51,500.

One of the many viewpoints at the fort. From here, you can see the village, its mudpaths, and roads leading you to the Aravallis.

On her: Dress, Payal Pratap, price on request; long jacket, ZORAYA, `11,500; earrings, Amrapali, prices on request. shoes, Rosso Brunello, `4,499.

The fort towers over its inhabitants.

On her: Shirt, jacket, and skirt, Rajesh Pratap Singh, price on request. Opposite: Shirt and pantsuit, SUKETDHIR; earrings, Amrapali, prices on request.

vegetable and herb that could possibly be produced in

the area. The two restaurants—Amarsar and Nazrana—

followed their farm-to-table philosophy diligently by

sourcing their produce from here. Tomatoes were blush

red, pumpkin flowers assumed a bright yellow hue, shiny

purple eggplants had been picked for the kitchen already,

and bottle gourds sparkled from being watered recently.

For the next hour, the botanist, his assistant, and I tiptoed

between rows of plants, picking vegetables and collecting

herbs for a meal the Chef would later make at Amarsar.

In the days that followed, Amarsar became my go-to

restaurant for breakfast and lunch. This fine diner was

inspired by the town Maha Rao founded and which,

according to folklore, saw a 12-year-long battle with

the Gaurs. Drawing heavily from the reputation of

the Shekhawati Rajputs, the restaurant imparted fine

hospitality with a handcrafted menu that brought together

world cuisines and an impregnably large Rajasthani thali

(read: seven distinct recipes served with bajre ki roti and

a copious amount of butter milk).

If you think that isn’t enough to satiate your culinary

exploration urges, you can ask the concierge to take you

to Daya’s kitchen. That afternoon, we arrived at Daya’s

quaint rural house, sleeves up and ready for a village

experience. We found out a little later that we’d hardly

be able to keep up if we followed her routine. Daya was a

young, busy homemaker and farmer. At 5 am, she’d join

the men of the house at their farm and work till mid-day.

Afterwards, she’d cook for the family, milk the cows, and

take care of her kids. When guests from Alila requested a

meal, she happily obliged. This intimate rural setting of

Daya’s house gave you pause as you watched her cook and,

if you wish so, helped her make rotis with pearl millet.

It’s an incredibly humbling experience when you make

the shift from the massive fort to the simple longings

of Daya’s house.

It was clear that the fortress sought Bishangarh out in

more ways than one, and in doing so, brought the village

into itself. The bar that offered a fine selection of spirits

was christened after Madhuveni (sweet steam), the river

that once flowed around the fort. Nazrana, meaning ‘view,’

became the rooftop restaurant that offered a magnificent

view of the surrounding area, and harked back to the time

when this vantage point was crucial to the security of the

fortress. A little part of me was left behind too, wandering

around the corridors in search of doors that would

lead somewhere. ▪


Clockwise: A special outdoor breakfast set up for two at a quick distance from the fort; large windows in the suites offer dramatic views of the landscape; the pool is a great place to relax at dusk or for a barbecue with friends; plushly appointed rooms offer utmost comfort; the Havelli or arrival tent at the hotel; a tourist’s discovery on a village tour; expect fine cuisine at Amarsar.

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GETTING THERE

If you’re travelling from Delhi, you’ll reach Bishangarh in 3½ hours by car. From all other major cities, take a direct flight to Jaipur and request an airport transfer to Alila Fort Bishangarh.

STAY

Book a Grand Suite located at one of the topmost levels of the fort for a dramatic view of Bishangarh.The suite is suitable for two adults and a child, and comes furnished with a living space, a king- sized bed, and a large bathtub for two. Doubles

from `11,000 per night;

alilahotels.com

DINING

The fort boasts two extraordinary restaurants; Amarsar that offers world cuisines, and Nazrana, a rooftop restaurant that takes you back to the roots with local delicacies. On a special occasion, request a lavish, personalised spread at one of the fort’s unique locations—the spa garden, Havelli Terrace, or Kachhawa Deck—or a Braai to bond with the family over barbecued meats by the poolside.

VISIT

Alila Fort Bishangarh offers curated itineraries for culinary, adventure, and artisanal

enthusiasts. In three nights and four days, you can easily cover:

Daya’s Kitchen

Visit a village house to help Daya with daily chores, cook authentic dishes at the kitchen on a traditional firewood stove, milk a buffalo, and end the visit with a delicious meal cooked by her. Doubles at `4,000

Aravalli Biking Trail

Take a guided tour of Bishangarh on a bike early in the morning and watch the daily village life unfold at its own pace. Have tea under a tree; visit temples, farms, and fruit plantations. `1,000 per person

Artisanal Tour

For complete cultural immersion, see some of the exceptional workmanship of the village folk. Meet local carpet weavers who spend more than 12 hours on the loom; visit a local potter and make your own pots; learn the legacy of a third-generation jeweller. Doubles from `3,000

Camping Trip

For kids, Alila offers a special, half-day camping trip where they are taken to a spot near the fort to set up their camps, participate in outdoor activities, and enjoy sumptuous picnic lunches. `1,500 per child

THE DETAILS


Describe to us what Pokhran looks like outside the cinematic landscape of Parmanu.Pokhran is a small city in Jaisalmer, located in the Thar Desert. It is dry, arid, and severe. We shot and stayed in the Pokhran Fort, which is at a short distance from the city. Needless to say, the fort was spectacular. What were the challenges of shooting in Pokhran? The heat to begin with. We had to shoot in 45 degree Celsius and above. It’s not easy being in costume, under lights, doing retakes in conditions like that. Also, sandstorms are very common in Rajasthan. Almost every afternoon, we were hit by a sandstorm and had to abort shoot for a couple of hours until the dust settled. It was quite an experience, and every bit worth the effort. But what I really took away from the shoot in Pokhran was the realisation that back in 1998, our soldiers worked in these same harsh conditions day in and day out, without any of the comforts that we enjoyed. I cannot explain the amount of respect and gratitude I feel towards them.

What’s the craziest thingyou’ve done on a trip?Jumped off a plane! I was shooting for Cocktail in Cape Town and decided that if I were to skydive, this would be the city. To me, Cape Town is one of the most picturesque cities in the world, and what better way to view it than from above? It was surreal. One place that has been on your bucket list for a while now?It’s my dream to visit Norway someday. From what I’ve heard, it is the most beautiful place on Earth. From dramatic mountains and beautiful glaciers, to the deep coastal jords, I feel like I have a connection with the place without even having been there. Also, Norway is a good place to experience the Northern Lights—another one of my dreams. If you could leave everything behind and settle down in one of your shoot locations, where would it be?I love New York City. What a place! The vibe is unparalleled. I worked and lived there for about a year, but it felt like I had lived there all my life. New York has a way of making you feel like you belong.

Who is your favourite travel companion?My camera! I’m not professionally trained, but I love experimenting with my DSLR in the manual mode. Travel has always inspired me, and that’s one of the reasons I bought a camera. Dramatic landscapes, beautiful faces, wildlife in its natural habitat—I want to capture it all. And it has become a passion. I keep thinking that if I weren’t an actor, I would probably be a travel photographer.

Your favourite shopping destinations in the world?The boutiques in Soho, NYC; Carnaby Street and Covent Garden in London; and Bondi Road in Sydney are my favourites. I love walking through quaint little neighbourhoods and shopping at independent boutiques, where I find some of the most unique clothing and accessories that I know no one else will have.

What would you say to young people about travelling in India?India is probably the most diverse country in the world: geographically, culturally, and linguistically. It’s like a mini world within itself, with so much to see and experience... why look beyond? ▪

WHEN DIANA PENTY’S PARMANU: THE STORY OF POKHRAN RELEASED IN

CINEMA HALLS ACROSS THE COUNTRY, SHE WAS NOT ONLY

RECOGNISED FOR A ROLE FAR FROM HER USUAL GLAMOROUS

AVATAR, BUT ALSO FOR SHOWCASING HOW IMPORTANT WOMEN ARE

IN THE INDIAN ARMY. THUS, WHEN THE TIME CAME TO EXECUTE OUR

FIRST CELEBRITY COVER, IN THIS INDIA SPECIAL ISSUE,

WE KNEW SHE’D BE THE PERFECT FIT. IN A CANDID CONVERSATION, SHE DISCUSSES

HOW TRAVEL SETS HER FREE—WHETHER SHE IS SHOPPING

IN NYC, JUMPING OFF A PLANE IN CAPE TOWN, OR PURSUING HER PASSION

FOR PHOTOGRAPHY.


On her: Dress, Payal Pratap, price on request; long jacket, ZORAYA, `11,500; earrings, Amrapali, price on request. shoes, Rosso Brunello, `4,499.

In a far-flung patch of forest in Indonesia,

one of the planet’s most endangered

primates clings to a precarious existence. Saki Knafo travels to

deepest Sumatra for a rare encounter

with these wise,watchful

PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEFAN RUIZ

Keepers of the Jungle

A wild orangutan in the Leuser Ecosystem,

a reserve in the jungle of northern Sumatra.

clinging to what little remains of their native habitat. Last summer, feeling less confident than usual in the merits of my own species, I went to Sumatra myself, hoping to meet one of these survivors. My destination was the Leuser Ecosystem, a sprawl of jungle in the north of Sumatra, the westernmost of Indonesia’s more than 16,000 islands. Orangutans once lived throughout Southeast Asia, but today the only two surviving species are confined to the scattered remnants of rainforest in Sumatra and nearby Borneo. The Sumatran orangutans,

LONG AGO, THERE lived an ape. The ape had babies, and those babies grew up and had babies of their own, and over time their descendants drifted apart to the point that they could no longer be considered one type of ape, but five. All were highly

intelligent, but one was smarter than the rest. With its gift of speech, this super-smart ape gave the others names: ‘gorilla,’ ‘chimpanzee,’ ‘bonobo,’ and ‘orangutan.’

This intelligence, however, came at a cost. Though this talking ape was capable of creating wonders, it was also capable of destroying them. Among the wonders it destroyed were many of the forests in which the other apes lived. One such forest is on the Indonesian island of Sumatra, where members of a unique species of orangutan are

From left: Hiking in the Leuser ecosystem; wild orangutans look on warily.

a . i nt r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e i n d i a . i n

ON MY WAY to the Leuser, I spent a night in Medan, the capital of North Sumatra province, before heading to the jungle the next day. Riding out of town, I found it hard to imagine that in less time than it takes to drive from New York City to Boston,

I would arrive at the edge of one of the richest forests in Asia. Medan was a crush of people and motorbikes and trucks and endless rows of street stalls filling economic niches I didn’t know existed. We passed a stall selling only kitchen clocks, another selling only birdcages, and a purse vendor who, lacking a stall, had hung her wares from the sprawling limbs of a tree, prompting my travel companion, Stefan Ruiz, who took the photographs for this story, to make one of his trademark observations: “It’s literally a money tree.”

Finally the traic thinned and the city faded, and we were rumbling

through palm plantations, acres and acres of them, the tall, spare trees

stretching as far as we could see in every direction, in rows as straight

as supermarket aisles. Palm oil is the most commonly used vegetable oil

in the world, found in snacks, soaps, cosmetics, and a good number of

the other products on our shelves, and Indonesia produces more of it

than any other country, accounting for about a third of the world’s

supply. If there is a money tree in Indonesia, it is the oil palm.

As we neared the forest, I asked our driver, Adi, who didn’t speak

much English, if he had seen a lot of wildlife over the years. He started

talking excitedly about something called a “mina,” which I assumed

was a kind of monkey, or maybe a local word for orangutan. In fact,

Mina was the name given by researchers to one particularly notorious

almost all of the remaining 7,000 of them, live in

the Leuser—a nominally protected stronghold

of biological diversity that is growing smaller

and less biologically diverse each year. Logging,

hunting, and illegal pet trade have all played a

part in the orangutan’s demise, but the main

culprit is the global demand for palm oil, a

commodity often produced on deforested land.

Conservationists warn that the Sumatran

orangutan could become the first great ape to reach

extinction, with the Borneo species following close

behind. Meanwhile, the slash-and-burn conversion

of their habitat into palm plantations is helping fill

the earth’s atmosphere with excess carbon,

threatening the existence of us all. Travellers who

don’t want to spend their vacations contemplating

such truths may want to give Sumatra a miss. Bali

is nice, I hear. But Bali doesn’t have wild

orangutans. Or tigers. Or flowers the size of truck

tires. Or the vanishingly rare Sumatran rhino.

Although Sumatra’s tourism infrastructure is

improving, this vast, wild, jungle-clad island

remains much less developed than a place like Bali.

For a certain kind of traveller, that’s precisely why

it’s such an exciting place to go.


orangutan. As a local would later put it, “she had mental problems.” There were rumours that Mina had bitten tourists. It turned out she had a troubled past: captured as a baby, she’d spent years in a cage. Eventually, she was rescued and brought to a rehabilitation centre for orangutans in Bukit Lawang, a village on the outskirts of the Leuser rainforest. But by then, her time with humans had taken its toll.

The Bohorok Rehabilitation Center closed in the 90s, but several of the orangutans that passed through it still live in the part of the jungle closest to the village, and so do their progeny, who tend to take after them. Considered “semi-wild,” they generally aren’t afraid of people, and some of the guides capitalise on this fearlessness, luring them closer to tourists with fried rice.

Green Hill, a company that organises jungle treks and runs the village guesthouse where we stayed, doesn’t go in for that kind of thing. Andrea Molyneaux, who manages Green Hill with her husband, is an Englishwoman with a master’s in primate conservation who did her fieldwork at Camp Leakey, in Borneo. The camp

was established by the pioneering Lithuanian-Canadian conservationist Birutė Mary Galdikas,

who is to orangutans what Jane Goodall is to

chimps. Andrea’s motto is painted on a big sign

out front: keep wildlife wild.

For the most part, Bukit Lawang resembles

the other towns in the region—humble concrete

buildings with rusty corrugated metal roofs.

But at its far end, the road gives way to a footpath

that meanders through the trees, and if you

follow the path along the river, past the shops

selling orangutan t-shirts and orangutan

carvings, you’ll find yourself in the hotel district,

a sort of fantasy of an Indonesian village filled

with guesthouses made with bamboo, jungle

logs, and branches.

That night, Stefan and I slept in rustic rooms

overlooking the jungle. The next day, we planned

to march right into that seething mass of green.

We were to spend the morning close to the

village looking for semi-wild orangutans, which

we were practically guaranteed to see. Then our

guides would take us deeper into the forest, to an

area rarely visited by people where the foliage

would be thicker, the trails rougher, and the wildlife truly wild. We

planned to camp there for two nights. If we saw an orangutan in the

deep forest, we’d be among the few people who ever have.

Early the next morning, as the sun rose above trees across the river,

we went into the forest. Stefan and I were joined by our head guide,

Anto Cebol, his assistant, Ipan, and a pair of college students from

Colorado. Anto, a native of Bukit Lawang, is 38, with the long hair and

philosophical outlook of someone who has been exposed from an early

age to the beliefs and customs of stoned Australian backpackers.

Sitting on a boulder, he said, “No one knows how much longer the

Earth will be.” He smiled defiantly. “Maybe we go to the Moon.”

We’d been following him for only a few minutes when he pointed

out a troop of black-mohawked Thomas’s leaf monkeys in the trees.

Though we were still on easy, well-worn paths, sweat started pouring

out of me at a rate I’d never imagined possible. Then we saw it: our

first orangutan. This was exciting, of course, that flash of orange in the

trees, but she clearly wasn’t wild. She was stretched out on a limb,

unafraid and unimpressed. Antol recognised her; he said he knew her

mother. As we stood there staring, a long-tail macaque walked right

past us, not even bothering to glance in our direction. Then a group

of homo sapiens approached in flip-flops, taking selfies.

So by the time we got on the motorbikes and headed down the road

toward a more remote area, I was ready to go a little deeper. After

a bumpy ride through palm plantations, we arrived at Bukit Kencur,

a hamlet on the edge of the part of the jungle that the Green Hill staff

had described as untouched. It was clear that this place didn’t get

many foreign visitors. Clusters of reddish palm fruit sat in the dirt

outside the sun-bleached wooden huts. The villagers who came over

to look at us didn’t attempt to speak English, and no one tried to sell

us orangutan carvings or anything else.

One of the villagers approached with a basket of supplies. His name

was Chilik, and he was going to serve as an extra guide for the rest

of our trip. His training, as I’d later learn, had been unconventional.

Some years ago, he got lost in the forest while gathering medicinal

plants and sustained himself for five days by watching the orangutans

to see which fruits they ate. Chilik didn’t speak any English. Unlike

Anto, he wore his hair short, and did not bother with the rubber

trekking shoes worn by the guides in Bukit Lawang. He led us through

the jungle barefoot, scraping leeches off his ankles with a rusty

machete, and he carried most of our supplies on his back in a basket

made from rattan vines, which the Bukit Lawang guides had long

since abandoned for Western-style backpacks. During snack breaks,

he would go off by himself and squat on the forest floor, chain-

smoking until it was time to leave.

That first day, we hiked only a short distance, maybe a quarter-

mile. Still, it was tough going, as the rest of the trip would be. The trail

rose and fell at such a steep incline that we often had to grab at roots

and vines just to stay upright. At times it disappeared completely, at

which point Chilik would move to the front of the pack and hack a path

Seeing a truly wild orangutan does feel different from seeing one that has

grown up around humans.


A traditional Batak house on Samosir Island, in Lake Toba.

One of the resorts on Samosir Island, a popular stop for

visitors to Lake Toba.

through the bush with his machete. At last we

came to the campsite. It sat on a slope overlooking

a picturesque river. As we rinsed off in the cool, clear water, a pair of cooks showed up out of nowhere and built a fire. They boiled a pot of rice, fried some tempeh, sautéed a sackful of tapioca leaves, and whipped up a delicious dish of dried anchovies with wild ginger and chilli.

We slept beneath a tarp stretched over a frame of lashed-together bamboo poles. The soundscape was a layered mix of cicada, bird, stream, and rain, with a smattering of monkey howls thrown in. We awoke early the next morning, at the first hint of daylight. Toast, eggs, strong Sumatran coffee, then back on the trail, pausing every 15 minutes so that Anto could pass out pieces of leaves and bark, schooling us on the names and medicinal or culinary uses of each species. There was the hot-pink flower of a tree he called assam

kimchin (a lemony herb that goes well with curry), the woody stalk of pasak bumi (bitter and defends against malaria), and the glossy leaf of the satykop bush (per Anto: “To make not broken the first baby when baby is still drinking from mama and mama pregnant.”). On we hiked, our eyes lifted to the treetops, when suddenly Anto saw something that made him break into a sprint. “Mawa!” he shouted, crashing through the foliage. “Lucky!”

Mawa, I knew by then, is the local word for orangutan.

Seeing a truly wild orangutan does feel different from seeing one that has grown up around humans. You see in his eyes that he is frightened, and in his innocence and awe, he reminds you of a child. You feel a rush of nostalgia for your own childhood, when all the world felt like this corner of the forest, mysterious and full of wonder. At the same time, you can’t help suspecting you feel this way primarily because you come from the West, where you and your compatriots, having benefited from centuries of environmentally destructive agricultural and industrial practices, have forgotten the hardships of forest life. This is one of the reasons you can afford to look back at that bygone existence through a romantic lens, much in the way you can afford to romanticise your childhood only after the pain of growing up has receded. You think these things, and you wonder what the orangutan is thinking. And then the screeching ape demonstrates his mastery of simple tools by breaking off a stick and throwing it at you. Knowing what you know about humans, can you blame him?

Eventually, the orangutan calmed down and just hung there from the branches staring back at us. Then we heard a rustling of leaves a little way off. “Another one!” Anto cried. Two, in fact—a mother and baby. So that’s why the first one hadn’t fled at the sight of us: he was protecting his family. The mom and baby were moving slowly through the treetops, not leaping like monkeys but plotting a careful course, shifting their weight from foot to foot, and hand to hand.

MY LAST FEW days in North Sumatra unfolded at a rambling hotel on the shore of Lake Toba, eight hours southeast of Bukit Lawang. At 1,130 square kilometres—about the size of Los Angeles—Lake Toba is the largest volcanic lake in

the world, and maybe the nicest. The water is sparkling and calm. Soft green mountains rise all around it. The hotel, Carolina


PLAN AN ADVENTURE IN SUMATRAExplore this unsung Indonesian island at the front end of a two-week

trip. Its extraordinary natural riches make an ideal prelude to thecultural wonders of Java or the beaches of Bali.

GETTING THERE

& AROUND

Fly to Kualanamu

International Airport

in Medan via a

regional hub such as

Singapore. The best

way to reach

Gunung Leuser

National Park and

Lake Toba is to hire a

car and driver (your

hotel can easily make

arrangements).

Sumatra’s tourism

infrastructure is

getting better, but

most roads remain

rough and crowded,

so expect to spend a

day travelling to

each destination.

MEDAN

For most travellers,

Indonesia’s fourth-

largest city is a

gateway to the

natural attractions

of North Sumatra.

I arrived after dark

and set out for the

jungle the next

morning, skipping

such sights as Our

Lady of Velangkanni

(velang kanni.com),

an Indo-Mughal-

style church, and the

museum at Maimun

Palace (66 Jl. Sultan

Ma’moen Al Rasyid;

62-61-452-4244).

I did stick around my

hotel, Aryaduta

Medan (Doubles

from ̀ 7,582;

aryaduta.com), long

enough to sample a

grand breakfast

spread that

combined American,

Chinese, and

Indonesian food.

Another comfortable

option is the JW

Marriott (Doubles

from ̀ 3,998;

marriott.com),

which has a lovely

rooftop pool.

BUKIT LAWANG

This riverside town

at the entrance to

Gunung Leuser

National Park

(gunungleuser.or.id)

is where most

orangutan treks

start. I stayed at

Green Hill (Packages

from ̀ 16,542;

greenhillbukit

lawang.com), a

guesthouse where

the staff arranges

trips into the jungle.

For optimum

orangutan sightings,

those willing to

rough it should

consider booking

a three-day or

four-day trek.

LAKE TOBA

After an eight-hour

drive from Bukit

Lawang, I took a

ferry to Samosir

Island in the middle

of the lake. Lodging

at Carolina

Cottages (Doubles

from ̀ 827;

carolina-cottages.

com) was basic but

comfortable. For a

more luxurious

stay, try the Taman

Simalem Resort

(Doubles from

`5,996; tamansima-

lem.com), a group of

lodges and private

villas overlooking the

lake. I recommend a

visit to the Huta

Bolon Simanindo

(Jl. Pelabuhan

Simanindo, Samosir

Island; 62- 813-

9672-1133), a

preserved historic

village of traditional

wooden houses.

TOUR OPERATOR

ATJ’s Jarrod

Hobson is known in

the industry as ‘the

Indonesia guy’. He

can create custom

itineraries that

combine Sumatra

with other islands,

such as Java and

Bali. From `24,124

per person per day;

atj.com

WHAT TO PACK

You’ll need a

powerful insect

repellent, sunscreen

with a high SPF,

a headlamp, a

waterproof wallet

for your documents,

tough hiking boots,

and light, long-

sleeved shirts and

long pants. — S.K.

Cottages, is a collection of bungalows with

sharply peaked roofs and ornately carved

wooden façades, a tribute to the traditional

building style of the local people. A breeze

blew onto the hotel veranda, ru�ing the edges

of the batik tablecloths. On the beaches, the

Coke came in glass bottles and the coconuts

came with straws.

At the centre of the lake lies Samosir Island,

the heartland of the Batak, an indigenous group

known for their love of singing. One night, we

partied with a crowd of Batak schoolteachers on

their summer break. They fed us boiled eggs with

chilli paste and passed out cups of herbal liquor,

and brought out a guitar and sang for us and

begged us to dance with them and laughed

hysterically when we did. Even Stefan, who has

been everywhere and isn’t easily impressed,

conceded that one of the guests had a solid case

when he called Lake Toba “heaven on this earth.”

On my way back to Medan, as I boarded a ferry

headed across the lake, a stranger handed me a

pocket map. He turned out to be a mapmaker

from Java who had travelled all over Indonesia

for his work. He told me Toba held a special place

in his heart. For years, he said, the Indonesian

government had done too little to develop the

tourism industry in this provincial outpost, but

that was beginning to change. An airport had been

built nearby, and there were plans to extend the

highway from Medan to the lake. “We want people

to know the story of Toba,” he said.

The story of Toba is one worth knowing. The

massive volcanic eruption that created the lake

some 70,000 years ago nearly wiped out the

entire human species—and may have made us

who we are today. According to the ‘Toba

catastrophe theory,’ originally posited by the

science writer Ann Gibbons, the blast plunged

the Earth into a six-year winter, leaving as few

as 3,000 people alive on the planet. Those

survivors were the most resourceful of our kind,

and they passed on those qualities to their

descendants, our ancestors, planting the seeds

of human civilisation.

It was perhaps because of Toba that our

ancestors learned to make fire, and grow crops,

and cure diseases, and come up with clever

theories about human civilisation. And it was

perhaps because of Toba that we learned to clear

forests, and developed a habit of wiping other

species off the face of the Earth.

As the ferry pulled into the dock, I said

goodbye to the mapmaker and hauled my bags to

the driver waiting onshore. Then we began the

journey back to Medan, with its truck-clogged

streets, passing palm plantations where there

used to be forest. With luck, you’ll get to visit one

of the forests that remain. If you do, keep your

eyes raised to the treetops. You might see

someone you used to know. ▪

Medan

GUNUNG LEUSERNATIONAL PARK

SUMATRA

Lake Toba

Indonesia

Bukit Lawang


ON THE

WILDSub-adult cheetah siblings cross the road at the Kafue National Park, Zambia.

SIDE

The Kafue and Luangwa tributaries of the River Zambezi nurture an abundance of wildlife. From escaping ravenous lion prides to being

charged by African elephants and encountering packs of wild dogs, ANURAG MALLICK & PRIYA GANAPATHY savour a wholesome slice of Zambia.

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The tyres were horribly stuck in the mud, and daylight was

fading faster than our bravado. The more our Zambian driver-

and-guide, Powell Nchimunya, revved the engine, the deeper

we sank. The cloud of grey fumes we blew towards the lions

wasn’t exactly the post-coital smoke they would have enjoyed,

so we begged Powell to ease off. “During mating, lions prefer to stay in one area, and they’re at it 60 to 70 times in the space of two to three days,” we were informed. “Just once makes people so ravenous,” we chuckled. And here was a lovely international spread for the lions’ delight if they so chose. “English, Swiss, French, Indian—what would you like to have tonight, dear?” Nervous laughter ensued.

It was a strange predicament, thanks to unseasonal heavy rains, which had rendered the loop roads and tracks of Kafue National Park slushy. There was nothing we could do but radio for help and wait for a safari vehicle from Mukambi Safari Lodge to pull us out. “Shall we have the sundowners now?” Powell tried to sound cheerful. Considering our situation, it wasn’t a bad idea. Out came sausage rolls and white wine. He carefully kept one spotlight trained on the tawny mane in the bush. “Umm… can’t spot the lioness,” we observed warily. “Actually, there were two lionesses,” Powell corrected us. “I don’t see the other one either.” We nearly choked on our wine, imagining two hungry big cats stalking us in the darkness.

This wild tract was once inhabited by the ferocious Ila tribe, who wore elaborate tasselled headdresses with kudu bone woven into their hair to follow each other in the tall grass. Finding plenty of fish in the river, they were always well-fed. It was a cruel twist of irony that ‘Kafue’ literally meant ‘belly-full’. Just when we thought we’d be part of the ‘lion’s share,’ we spotted a pair of headlights in the distance. Our joy, however, was short-lived. The vehicle that had swooped in to our rescue got stranded even deeper in the slush. The leonine buffet spread was getting bigger. Powell’s spotlight was frozen on a pair of eyes shining like stars in the bush, watching out for any movement. Minutes felt like hours as we radioed for help. Finally, a tractor from the nearby Ila Safari Lodge towed us out. “Ah, don’t worry. It’s quite common to get stuck when it rains,” we were reassured. Getting back on the gravel path, we took one last look at the mating lions before returning to the safety of our lodge. Or so we thought…

In the wilds of Kafue, it is not uncommon for wildlife to venture into resorts. Mukambi Safari Lodge, located on the banks of the River Kafue and named after the mukambi (water buck), has a strict policy—guests must be accompanied to their rooms at night by a minder. “Once, after dropping a guest, I saw an entire pride of lions walk by,” said our night guide. Robyn van der Heide, who runs the place with husband Edjan and her daughters, fondly remembers a semi-resident hippo, Basil, who used the resort as his hangout for 14 years, often plopping down

at the reception. Taking no risks, we locked our rondavels (traditional circular African dwelling with conical thatched roof); the night was thankfully uneventful.

The next day, we took a boat across the river and set off on our safari. Kafue is the biggest and oldest national park in Zambia and the second largest in all of Africa. At 22,480 square kilometres, it is roughly the size of Wales. We were mock-charged twice by African elephants and sneakily drove past some male Cape buffalos, called ‘widow makers’ for their aggressive nature. These lone stragglers inhabit slushy pools and cake themselves with mud, hence the nickname ‘dagga boys’—after construction workers who often have dried cement on them due to mixing dagga (sand, cement, and water).

Kafue has the highest population of wild dogs in Africa and the greatest diversity of antelope in the world—semi-endemic puku, the endemic Kafue lechwe, sable, kudu, water buck, impala, and many more. Guides jokingly call the impala ‘McDonald’s’ after the M-shaped mark on its rump. “It’s fast food for predators,” they say. Statistics reveal that it takes an average of 18 game drives to spot wild dogs. So we were lucky to see a pack of over a dozen Cape wild dogs on our second safari. First, tearing into a carcass, and later, crossing the main road.

Nearly 500 of Zambia’s 750-odd bird species can be spotted at Kafue. The metallic glossy blue of the greater blue-eared starling, the brilliance of the malachite kingfisher, namaqua doves flying off from their perch as we approached, gigantic ground hornbills preening furiously, red-necked spurfowls calling out in warning on spotting a western banded snake eagle, a grey crowned crane bobbing its head in the reeds like a powder puff flower—every moment in the bush was a head-turner. Zambia’s national bird, the African fish eagle, surveyed the stream. A few hadada ibis, named after their distinct ‘hadada’ call while in flight, were silhouetted on a tree. The grey go-away bird made its peculiar call that sounds like “go away,” which infamously featured in the film The Gods Must Be Crazy. A species of turaco, its crimson flight feathers have been treasured as status symbols by royalty and chiefs all over

Africa. The hammerkopf, with its hammer-shaped

head, kept flitting about ahead of us like an usher.

We were barely a few metres away from a pair of mating lions in an open safari vehicle.


Clockwise, from above: A herd of Kafue lechwe sprints in alarm; an African fish eagle perches on a treetop; elephants stop for a drink from the River Kafue in the Kafue National Park; lionesses take a daytime nap on a tree; a saddle-billed stork; a Burchell's zebra in South Luangwa National Park. Centre: A malachite kingfisher shows off its vibrant plumage.

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Spotting a herd of Boehm’s zebra in the distance, we

decided to stop for a coffee break. Only when we stood still, did we notice the smaller creatures, like the pesky tsetse flies. “We burn elephant dung in a can at the back of the vehicle to ward them off,” said Powell. A train of Matabele ants scurried about busily. Named after the fierce Matabele tribe in Zimbabwe which raided other tribes in the 1800s, the ants raid termite mounds to grab eggs and hatchlings. Worker ants set out as scouts and leave a scented trail of pheromones for the whole colony to follow.

Kafue does not have many lodges, which means you don’t encounter too many vehicles while on safari. The landing strip at Chunga is open for chartered flights all year round. Between our game drives, we dropped by at Ila Safari Lodge, run by Jacques and Linda van Heerden. They are the proud owners of Zambia’s first eLandy, or Electronic Landrover. The eco-friendly resort has absolutely no limitations while staying in the bush—a solar panel electric boat, luxury tents with a wooden deck, and outdoor showers equipped with solar geysers. Their three-day packages include pick-up from Lusaka, full-day game drives with lunch in the bush, dining on the boat, fishing trips, and seamless transfers between camps.

Undoubtedly, the best place to spot large herds of herbivores and their predators are the Zambezian flooded grasslands in the north—the Busanga Swamp and plains. A six-hour drive away, this prime tract is the undisputed jewel of Zambia. “It’s like Masai Mara without all the people. So wild, you are on your own,” said Linda. We took the Great West Road straight as an arrow back to Lusaka. At Southern Sun Ridgeway, it was with a twinge of guilt that we tried Zambian game meat like kudu, croc, and impala. The Musuku restaurant overlooked a pond-courtyard where resident weavers nested in the reeds and baby crocodiles sunned themselves on the central islet.

For a closer brush with wildlife, there are immense opportunities. Set in Lilayi Lodge’s

Clockwise, from left: The Mukambi Safari Lodge in Kafue serves fresh catch from the river every day; a typical headdress of the Ila tribe; the Ila Safari Lodge offers eco-friendly, luxurious tents for guests.

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GO WILD IN ZAMBIAWith 20 national parks and 34 game management areas, nearly a third

of Zambia’s territory is reserved for wildlife. Parks like Kafue, SouthLuangwa, and Lower Zambezi are ranked among the finest in the

world, and are easily accessible from the capital Lusaka.

GETTING THEREFly to Lusaka on Ethiopian Airlines via Addis Ababa, Kenyan Airlines via Nairobi, Oman Air via Muscat, or Emirates via Dubai. Lilayi and Chaminuka are on the outskirts of Lusaka, 45 minutes away. From Lusaka, Lower Zambezi National Park is 153 kms (2 hrs 45 mins) away, while Kafue is 260 kms (4 hrs) via M9. Mahagony Air (mahoganyair.com) flies to Harry Nkambule International Airport at Livingstone and Proflight (proflight-zambia.com) to Mfuwe, the closest to South Luangwa.

WHEN TO GOThe low season is from December to April, the wet months, when the grass is high and visibility low. The dry season lasts from May to October, when animals congregate around the river. Peak season rates apply from from July to October.

STAYKafueMukambi Safari Lodge: A rustic riverside lodge with driftwood décor and a deck that serves up panoramic views alongside meals. Go fishing, encounter hippos, spot vervet monkeys in the trees, and listen to the bewildering nocturnal calls of the tree hyrax. From

`27,000 per person (peak season

from `33,000), all-inclusive;

mukambi.com

Ila Safari Lodge: An eco-friendly bush camp with plush tents that overlook the Kafue river, it offers regular sightings of crocs, hippos, and elephants. From `25,500 per

person in low season, `46,000 in

high season; greensafaris.com

LivingstoneAVANI Victoria Falls Resort:

A sprawling resort with contemporary Zambian designs, arty metal-animal lawn accents,

and complimentary access to

Victoria Falls. Expect zebra

crossings and giraffes on

the property, and an African-

style open-air ‘Boma’ dinner.

minorhotels.com

Royal Livingstone Hotel by

Anantara: A heady mix of

Victorian elegance and old-world

colonial ambience, this classy

resort is spiffed up with paintings

and antiques. From `28,500;

anantara.com

Aha The David Livingstone

Safari Lodge & Spa: A beautiful

resort made of stone, thatch,

and wood, the high-roofed foyer

is decorated with granaries,

drums, cane lamps, and African

portraits. Sample Afro-Arabian

fusion cuisine at Kalai restaurant,

luxe spa treatments, and

dinner cruises aboard the

Lady Livingstone. From `25,500;

aha.co.za/david-livingstone

LusakaSouthern Sun Ridgeway: Just

three kilometres from the city

centre, this 1952 hotel features

the Musuku restaurant around a

central pond courtyard with baby

crocs lolling in the sun. From

`12,500; tsogosun.com/southern-

sun-ridgeway-lusaka

The Best Western Plus Lusaka

Grand Hotel: A four-star hotel

on Great East Road near Manda

Hill shopping mall. From `9,000;

bestwestern.com

Protea Hotels by Marriott:

A modern, three-star hotel

near the Arcades Shopping and

Entertainment Complex.

From `8,500; marriott.com

PRO TIP

Tsetse flies are attracted to dark

objects, so wear light colours in

the jungle.

For more information, visit

zambia.travel

650-hectare game farm on the outskirts of

Lusaka is Lilayi Elephant Nursery, an orphanage

where abandoned calves are nursed before

being rehabilitated to the Kafue Release Facility.

At 11.30 am every day, the staff deliver a brief talk about the project, explaining elephant behaviour, and usher visitors to the viewing deck, which provides the perfect vantage point to watch baby elephants feed and play.

The Kafue and the Luangwa are the two largest left-hand tributaries of the Zambezi, the fourth-longest river in Africa. The South Luangwa National Park stretches around the Luangwa River, and its oxbow lagoons possess excellent concentration of animals and offer great leopard sightings. The famous ‘walking safari’ originated here. The Lower Zambezi National Park promises canoeing trips down the Zambezi, but you must watch out for hippos that sometimes topple boats. At the Kenneth Kaunda airport in Lusaka, we marvelled at Coert Steynberg’s bronze antelope sculpture, Lechwe of the Kafue Flats, before boarding our Mahogany Air flight to Livingstone.

One place where the roar of the lion is drowned out by the roar of nature’s spectacle is Victoria Falls. Counted among the seven natural wonders of the world and the only one in Africa, it’s a 1,708-metre-wide and 108-metre-high drop of the Zambezi river. If Vasco da Gama was the first European to come across the river in January 1498 (he called it ‘Rio dos Bons Sinais’, or the river of good omens), centuries later explorer David Livingstone was the first European to see the Mosi-oa-Tunya (literally, the smoke that thunders) waterfall in 1855. He called it Victoria Falls after the then British Queen. On his 1852-56 exploration of the African interior, Livingstone mapped out almost the entire course of the river.

Mosi-oa-Tunya is also a national park with a decent population of antelope, elephants, giraffe, and rhino, but thankfully no predators. Our resort, AVANI Victoria Falls Resort, was just a five-minute walk from the cataract whose deafening roar hummed through the forest. Located within a nature reserve, the resort allows unlimited access to the waterfall and chance encounters with wildlife. We saw zebras grazing in the lawns and giraffes nibbling leaves off the trees. After devouring a mixed-meat platter, we embarked on a magical river cruise on the Zambezi aboard the Lady Livingstone. Sipping sundowners with a band playing on the silimba (Zambian xylophone using resonating gourds), we trained our binoculars on the riverbank to spot wildlife. In the distance, the misty spray of the gushing waterfall rose like a wraith. In that moment, David Livingstone’s words rang true, “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” ▪

ZAMBIA

Lusaka

South Luangwa

Lower Zambezi

Kafue

Livingstone


travelandleisureindia.in

AUGUST 2018 / 150

$ 4.50 / SLR 450 / NPR35 / MVR 60

PKR 30O / BTN 200 /TAKA 350 DINDI

DESTINATION

36AUTHENTIC

EXPERIENCES

TheIndiaStory

DISCOVER THE

OF

AndhraPradesh

Hidden Gems

10 JAMMU & KASHMIR

Go glamping under the stars.

12 HIMACHAL PRADESH

Conquer the Hampta Pass.

12 ODISHA Welcome olive ridley turtles.

13 KERALA Undertake a wellness journey.

13 RAJASTHAN

Live like a king in the jungle.

13 GOA Cook like a local.

14 BIHAR Trace Buddha’s spiritual journey.

14 TELANGANA Watch a game of polo.

14 MEGHALAYA Motorbike through the mountains.

15 DAMAN & DIU Explore underground caves dug by the Portuguese.

15 HARYANA Make a heritage hotel your weekend home.

15 MADHYA PRADESH Leave a tyre trail through four national parks.

16 PUDUCHERRY Scuba divefor mainland India’s mostcolourful reefs.

16 ANDAMAN & NICOBAR

ISLANDS Escape to a pairof virgin islands.

17 NAGALAND Wake upto a golden landscape.

17 JHARKHAND Dine with aMunda family.

17 DADRA & NAGAR HAVELI

Discover tribal heritage.

17 UTTAR PRADESH Join uniquefestivities in Varanasi.

18 MANIPUR Visit the world’sonly fl oating national park.

18 LAKSHADWEEP Charter ayacht to remote islands.

18 ANDHRA PRADESH DiscoverIndia’s own ‘Grand Canyon’.

19 MIZORAM Visit picturesquevillages on a high-endmountain bike.

19 DELHI Take a walk through the capital’s history.

19 PUNJAB Be a part of the Holla Mohalla carnival.

20 TAMIL NADU Unravel thesecrets of weavingsilk saris.

20 ARUNACHAL PRADESH

Groove to indie music ata unique festival.

20 TRIPURA Discover relicsof a forgotten kingdom.

20 UTTARAKHAND Go skiingand snowboarding.

21 CHHATTISGARH Check out‘India’s Niagara Falls’.

22 MAHARASHTRA Taste someof the country’s finestwines at a vineyard.

22 KARNATAKA Hop onboarda heritage train journey.

22 GUJARAT Indulge in theRann Utsav.

22 ASSAM Discover the stateon a cruise.

23 CHANDIGARH Fall in love withIndia’s best-planned city.

23 WEST BENGAL Stay at an erstwhile zamindar’s home.

23 SIKKIM Journey to one of the world’s highest lakes.

ANDHRA PRADESH

4 SUN, SAND, AND SERENITY

With the second-longest coastline in India, Andhra Pradesh demands to be explored as a beach destination.

6 IDYLLIC RETREAT

Dindi is fast gaining popularity among discerning travellers for its remote location and pristine backwaters.

8 LOCAL DISCOVERY

Watch centuries-old art forms come alive in the countryside—from Jamdani saris to Etikoppaka toys.

A U G U S T 2 0 1 8

ON THE COVERVisitors explore Gandikota, a gorge on the River Pennar often called ‘India’s Grand Canyon’, in Andhra Pradesh.

p. 10Jammu & Kashmir

p. 12Himachal Pradesh

p. 18AndhraPradesh

AndhraPradesh

p. 13Rajasthan

p. 12Odisha

p. 13Kerala

p. 13Goa

p. 19Delhi

p. 14Bihar

p. 14Telangana

p. 14Meghalaya

p. 15Madhya Pradesh

p. 15Haryana

p. 15Daman& Diu

p. 16Andaman& Nicobar

Islands

p. 17Nagaland

p. 17Jharkhand

p. 17Dadra & Nagar Haveli

p. 17Uttar Pradesh

p. 18Manipur

p. 18Lakshadweep

p. 19Mizoram

p. 19Punjab

p. 20Tamil Nadu

p. 20Arunachal Pradesh

p. 20Tripura

p. 20Uttarakhand

p. 21Chhattisgarh

p. 22Maharashtra

p. 22Karnataka

p. 22Gujarat

p. 22Assam

p. 23Chandigarh

p. 23West Bengal

p. 23Sikkim

p. 16Puducherry

p. 8Etikoppaka

p. 5Bheemunipatnam

p. 5Ramakrishna Beach

p. 4Uppada Beach

p. 5Suryalanka Beach

p. 8Uppada village

p. 6Dindi

p. 4Rishikonda Beach

p. 5Manginapudi

Beach

The map used above is for illustrative purposes only and is not claimed to be either true or correct.The offi cial boundary of India is as notifi ed by the Survey of India. (Map not to scale)

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Unwind

With the second-longest coastline in India, it’s time Andhra Pradesh gets the attention it deserves among globetrotters.

Sun, Sand, and Serenity

With a coastline that stretches over 900 kilometres, Andhra

Pradesh is home to some of the most beautiful beaches o� the

Bay of Bengal. While some of these places are fairly well-

known and attract throngs of tourists during local festivals,

there are several other hidden gems where you might get

lucky and spot dolphins frolicking in the sea.

Besides an enviable range of watersports and delectable seafood

o�erings, some of these places are also home to interesting museums,

such as the Submarine and Aircraft Museum on Ramakrishna Beach.

From the Vizag Yachting Festival, the first edition of which was held in

March this year, to the Machilipatnam Beach Festival—there’s plenty to

look forward to on the shores of Andhra Pradesh. The state tourism

website, aptdc.gov.in, is the best way to stay updated on the local

festivals and events organised through the year.

No. 1Rishikonda BeachLocated 30 kilometres from Visakhapatnam, Rishikonda is the most popular beach among watersports enthusiasts. While you’re here, try your hand at water skiing, wind surfing, and speedboating, or just sit back and relax under swaying palm trees.

No. 2Uppada BeachJust five kilometres from Kakinada, Uppada offers a quiet setting to its visitors. A popular weekend destination among locals, the beach is considered safe due to its wide shoreline.

ANDHRA PRADESHInside Out


No. 5BheemunipatnamBheemunipatnam, popularly known as Bheemili, is located at

the mouth of the River Gosthani and is another popular site for watersports. Some of the available options include

snorkelling and scuba diving. The place is home to a striking statue of Buddha, representing the place’s past as an

important Buddhist centre.

No. 3Manginapudi BeachLocated 10 kilometres from Machilipatnam, this beach is popular among seasoned surfers. The beach is remote and offers a striking setting with its black sand. Nearby attractions include the Undavalli Caves and a dance school that teaches kuchipudi.

No. 6 Suryalanka BeachAround nine kilometres from Bapatla in Guntur district, this one is among the cleanest beaches of Andhra Pradesh. While dolphin-spotting is a major attraction in November, the calm waters make it ideal for a day out with the family any time of the year. The state-run Haritha Resort (aptdc.in) is a good option if you want to stay close to the beach.

No. 4Ramakrishna BeachLocally known as RK Beach, Ramakrishna Beach is one of the most popular destinations in Visakhapatnam. It gets its name from the Ramakrishna Mission ashram across the Beach Road. The beach is best known for the INS Kursura Submarine Museum, which preserves the Kalvari-class submarine. While history buffs can look forward to a tour of ancient cave paintings in the vicinity, an 11th-century temple dedicated to Lord Narasimha will interest spiritual travellers. Swimmers, however, are advised to be careful because the waves can be deceptive here. The beach comes alive during Visakha Utsav in February.

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Dindi, also known as Coconut

County, is cradled in the

Konaseema delta in Andhra

Pradesh’s East Godavari

district. The extremely fertile

soil of the region supports the

cultivation of both, paddy and

coconut. Picture a vast, open land

covered with young, lime-coloured

paddy fringed with thick palm

leaves, with soft, white clouds

floating past the mighty Eastern

Ghats in the background—that’s

Dindi in a nutshell for you.

Although this quaint little town

has started to get its share of the

limelight, it is still a relatively

unknown destination among

mainstream tourists. This, in fact,

has helped it retain a quiet,

reserved charm. But what really

makes Dindi stand out is its

pristine backwaters.

Dindi is often compared to Kerala for its pristine backwaters.

Idyllic RetreatA quaint, small town of Andhra Pradesh is fast gaining popularity among curious travellers. Find out what’s on offer in Dindi.

Emerging


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Since the backwaters of

Konaseema don’t meander through

dense mangroves, you will see

beautiful coconut gardens lining

the banks of the Godavari. A cruise

here is ideal for planning a picnic

on one of the quiet islands where

the only signs of construction are a

couple of thatched huts, built to

provide recess from the scorching

heat of the sun. And if the time is

right, your guide will help you spot

a variety of birds, and a few

freshwater fish swimming

alongside your boat.

Whether it’s the brisk nature

walk through coconut plantations

before tea time, or the evening

chorus of birdsongs, or falling

asleep to the gentle sounds of a

river rushing by, the natural pace

of life at Dindi engulfs you in an

oasis of tranquillity. You can also

explore the area on a bicycle, riding

on scenic roads. If you plan to stay

for long, there are plenty of options

to consider—from houseboats to

private and state-run resorts, such

as Sterling Dindi (sterlingholidays.

com) and Coconut Country

Resort (aptdc.gov.in).

Clockwise, from left: Explore the backwaters of Dindi on a houseboat; chicken pulusu is a spicy local delicacy; Sterling Dindi is among the top private resorts in the area; the state-run Coconut Country Resort.

DOLPHIN-WATCHINGWhile you’re in Dindi, take a

few hours out to explore

the Sagara Sangamam, or

‘sea confluence’, where the

River Godavari, after

cutting across most of the

Deccan Plateau, gently

flows into the Bay of

Bengal. This place is

particularly famous for

spotting dolphins; the

different temperatures of

the two water bodies seem

to make the gorgeous sea

creatures playful.

CULINARY DELIGHTSIf you have ever tasted the

food at Delhi’s Andhra

Bhawan canteen, you know

that the state itself has a

rich culinary repertoire.

You can expect spicy and

tangy vegetable

preparations, delicious

meats, an array of seafood,

decadent biryanis, and

delectable pickles and

condiments when you dine

at Dindi–By The Godavari

(sterlingholidays.com). If

you are a gourmet traveller,

venture beyond Dindi and

try the single-boned fish

Korameenu, available in

other parts of East

Godavari, or taste bamboo

chicken in Araku Valley.

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The countryside of Andhra

Pradesh, most of which

largely remains untouched

by the touristy crowd, may

appear rustic, but it is a

cornucopia of treasures sans

maps. Idyllic villages and dusty

roads lead to gorgeous beaches,

ancient temples, endemic wildlife,

and a trove of indigenous crafts.

During my travels through the

state, I was mesmerised equally

by the magic of the loom in

Uppada village as weavers spun

beautiful Jamdani saris in jewel

colours, and by the Etikoppaka

toys brought to life by female

artisans with natural colours.

One may find these products

for sale in swanky malls and big

cities, but it is in the villages that

you can witness their creation from

scratch. For instance, the

Etikoppaka Ganesha that now sits

on my work desk invariably

transports me to the workshop

where soft wood was transformed

into beautiful artefacts such as a

veena, figurines of a mother and

child, birds and animals, and of

course, Hindu deities. The

Etikoppaka village has earned a

Geographical Indication (GI) status

for its eponymous craft. This

means that only those craftsmen

that live in the specified geographic

territory of the village are allowed

to use the popular product name, in

this case, Etikoppaka toys. This

ensures that the exclusivity of the

local craftsmen is maintained, and

the 400-year-old art form can

continue to earn enough

recognition and money so that it

can flourish despite modern

competition.

Similarly, Uppada, a village

near Kakinada, is famous for the

Uppada Jamdani saris. These

beautiful pieces of art were once

woven exclusively for the

erstwhile royal families of Andhra,

and are known for their lightness

and beautiful drape. The craft has

been passed down through

generations, and the saris are

much sought after since they are

completely handwoven and come

From top: Paddy fi elds in Kakinada;

an unfi nished work of

Kalamkari.

Local DiscoveryThe villages of Andhra Pradesh still practise centuries-old art forms, a testimony to the state’s rich history and a delightful offering for travellers.

Rural Walk


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with an identical pattern on both

sides of the fabric. Again, the saris

that I bought from the weavers

occupy a much more coveted spot

in my wardrobe than those bought

from high-end stores. I saw them

being made—the time-honoured

process of natural silk being dyed

with vibrant colours, spun into

yarn, and put to weaving.

Recognising the appeal of such

experiences for tourists, the

Andhra Pradesh government has

initiated Project Sanskriti to

promote the villages dedicated to

specific arts, handicrafts,

handlooms, and traditions. For

this endeavour, the Andhra

Pradesh Tourism Authority has

shortlisted 12 villages across

various regions of the state. The

idea is to preserve ancient art

forms, create awareness, and

celebrate the history and culture

of the state. Srikalahasti-

Venkatagiri-Madhavamala

(Kalamkari saris, wood-

carving); Lepakshi-

Veerapuram-Nimmalakunta

(handicrafts, migratory birds,

puppet shows); Angallu-Adaran

agro farm-Horsely Hills (agro

tourism and hill station); and

Narsapuram-Dindi-Uppada

(lace-making, coconut products,

silk saris) are the four clusters

identified under the project. This

categorisation aims to facilitate

project management, as well as

streamline activities aimed

towards achieving the milestones

set for the project. Even the

private firms that participate in

rural tourism will have to execute

their ventures in accordance with

the set guidelines, ensuring

standardised hospitality services.

One of the projects is to

develop homestays with a focus on

giving tourists first-hand

experience of the local way of life.

Since the implementation of

Project Sanskriti, some tourists

from Hyderabad, Bengaluru, and

even Belgium have already spent a

few days in the state’s countryside,

learning farming, wood-carving,

and weaving from the

locals, and of course,

sampling local cuisine.

A taste of this village

way of life is known to

be rejuvenating for city

folk. The sights, smells,

d sounds of these lands

er an antidote to the

ctic pace at which most

us live. Even if you do not

ant to pick a new craft,

trip to the village is

aranteed to help you

itch off from the frenzy

the city and experience

simpler way of living.

—SHIBANI BAWA

The Andhra Pradesh governmenthas initiated Project Sanskriti

to promote the villages dedicatedto specific arts, handicrafts,handlooms, and traditions.

Clockwise, from top: A sample of wood-carving in Madhavamala; a traditional Jamdani sari in Uppada; a sculpture of Lord Venkateshwara; a candlestand in Etikoppaka; the Horsley Hills offer great views.

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Adventure begins at home. And when home is made up of 29 states and seven Union Territories—each with its own topography, history, demographics, wildlife, and culture—there’s an adventure waiting around every corner. By DIVYA BEHL & VIKAS PLAKKOT

Set opposite the spectacular Thiksey Monastery in Ladakh, the

Chamba Camp Thiksey presents an opportunity to live under the

star-spangled skies of Ladakh in unparalleled luxury. The seasonal

camp by The Ultimate Traveling Camp (TUTC) that runs between

May and October every year crafts bespoke itineraries ranging from

three to seven nights for travellers looking to experience Ladakh’s

many traditions. Participate in the morning rituals of the nearby

monastery, bike at Wari La, raft down the River Indus, and enjoy

picnic lunches on picturesque spots with unforgettable views of the

Ladakh landscape. From `1,08,000 per person; tutc.com

1 JAMMU & KASHMIRGo Glamping in Paradise———

The maps used in the story are for illustrative purposes only and are not claimed to be either true or correct. The offi cial boundary of India is as notifi ed by the Survey of India. (Maps not to scale)

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3ODISHA

Welcome the Olive Ridley Moms———Every year, between November and April, Odisha prepares for arribada, the mass arrival of the endangered olive ridley turtles. Numbering anywhere between one and four million, the turtles arrive in hordes on the Gahirmatha and Rushikulya beaches for nesting. Gahirmatha is a part of the Bhitarkanika National Park (bhitarkanikanationalpark.com), which houses a dynamic mangrove system. Often called the Amazon of India, the park hosts numerous saltwater crocodiles, snakes, and an array of migratory birds that visit every year. Stay at the Mayfair Lagoon in Bhubaneswar, and book a package trip with Jungle Resorts covering the vivid wildlife experiences in the region. Rooms from `12,000; mayfairhotels.com

When in Himachal, trek! The surreal mountainscape of the state demands to be explored on foot.

Join IndiaHikes (indiahikes.com) on their next group expedition to Hampta Pass, climbing out from the

lush green valleys of Kullu to the barren desert of Lahaul. The six-day trek begins from the base camp

of Jobra near Manali, passes through the Hampta Pass (4,270 m), and culminates in a camp at Chhatru

overlooking the Chandra River. A good fit for beginners who are suiciently fit, the trek is best done

between June and September, and costs `9,950 per person. Recover and rejuvenate after the trek at

The Himalayan in Manali, a Gothic-style castle hotel. Duplex rates from `15,000; thehimalayan.com

2 HIMACHAL PRADESHTrek the Hampta Pass———


If there’s one state that’s guaranteed to soothe both,

mind and body, it’s Kerala. Located on the shores of the

Arabian Sea, in northern Kerala, Neeleshwar Hermitage

is a luxurious resort designed for the weary traveller

seeking a retreat from urban chaos. With a dedicated

yoga centre, a renowned Ayurveda spa, and restaurants

serving organic food, the resort is an oasis of calm and

wellness. Choose from its 18 cottages built in traditional

style, and set aside a day for a houseboat trip on

‘The Lotus’ through the virgin backwaters of the region.

Rooms from `17,000; neeleshwarhermitage.com

4

6GOA

Master the Art of Cooking

Goan Cuisine———

If you’re a foodie who loves Goa as much for its culinary delights as

its beaches, why not learn to cook some of your favourite local fare?

Sign up for a one-day cooking class with Rita of Rita’s Gourmet Goa

(ritasgourmetgoa.com) in Dabolim. In the course of the day, you share a local breakfast of poli with Rita, visit the local farmers’ market to pick up spices and vegetables, and prepare

Portuguese-influenced Goan seafood like prawns balchao. A class

with Rita costs `4,100. After a day in the kitchen, retreat into your

luxurious suite at Le Méridien Goa, Calangute. Rooms from `5,984 per

night; starwoodhotels.com

5RAJASTHAN

Camp Like a Maharaja

in the Tiger’s Home———

Nestled on the outskirts of the

Ranthambhore National Park,

home to a strong population of

big cats, Sujan Sher Bagh is the

ultimate jungle experience. The

luxurious canvas tents here are

built in the classic 1920s style,

a nod to the Edwardian style of

architecture. Much like the times

of the Raj, guests wake up at

the break of dawn and embark

on a safari to get a glimpse of

the elusive tiger, and are treated

to immaculate hospitality upon

return. You can also opt for a picnic

in the 8th-century Ranthambhore

Fort for a bird’s-eye view of the

forest. From `50,000 per night;

sujanluxury.com

KERALALuxuriate in a Wellness Resort———


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Trace the origins of Buddhism on a trail that

links the significant sacred sites of Bihar. Begin

with the temple complex at Bodh Gaya where

Prince Siddhartha attained enlightenment to

become Buddha. Drive to the scenic hill town

of Rajgir where monasteries built by Japanese

devotees still stand, and continue towards

the ruins of Nalanda, once the largest site of

Buddhist teachings. Before winding down at

Patna, visit the stupa at Vaishali, built in honour

of Buddha’s last sermon delivered here. You

could book a car (zoomcar.com) to take a self-

drive trip. In Patna, make the luxurious Hotel

Maurya your base. From`5,000; maurya.com

8TELANGANA

Take Horse Riding Lessons———At the Hyderabad Polo and RidingClub (hprc.in), sign up for a coursein horse riding, watch a weekendpolo game, take a guest ride if you’rean experienced rider, or get trainedin competitive polo. The club hasover 90 high-quality horses alongwith instructors, who have years ofexperience. As you get your fix ofequestrian events, live like royalty atthe Taj Falaknuma Palace Hotel, astructure that was once home to theNizam of Hyderabad. With a privatebutler to take care of your needs,there’s hardly ever a misstep inhospitality here. Rooms from `30,000

per night; taj.tajhotels.com

MEGHALAYA

Motorbike through the Mountains———Meghalaya can’t be explored in a day. But then, you don’t have to. Rent a Royal Enfi eld Classic 350 with rental agency, Daplieh Tours (dapliehtours.com), and tick off the state’s hidden gems at your own pace. Set up your base in Shillong, and take day trips to see the surreal Dawki River, where the water is so clear it gives the illusion of boats fl oating in thin air, the village of Mawlynnong which once received the distinction of Asia’s cleanest village, and the famed living root bridges of Cherrapunji. Looking out to the Umiam Lake, Ri Kynjai—Serenity By The Lake is an apt base for the journey. Rooms from `9,000; rikynjai.com

9

BIHARWalk in Lord Buddha’s Footsteps———7


10DAMAN & DIU

Navigate a Unique Cave Network———The coastal town of Diu was a Portuguese colony until 1961. Apart from their intended architectural contributions dotting the city, the Portuguese created a network of underground caves quite unwittingly while digging for rocks. Today, the Naida Caves make for a beautiful tourist attraction. With numerous openings in the ceiling, sun beams can be seen streaming in during the day, and the caves glow with a warm orange hue. Stay at the Azarro Resort & Spa for a memorable time on this isle of calm. Rooms from `6,000; azzarodiu.com

Head out on a motorbike adventure covering

four of India’s finest national parks, located

in Madhya Pradesh, with tour operator

Pugdundee Safaris (pugdundeesafaris.com).

The road trip starts in the capital of the

erstwhile Bundelkhand Empire, Orchha, and

takes riders via small country roads to Kanha,

Pench, Panna, and Bandhavgarh national

parks. The ride lasts 11 days, and covers the

historic sites of Khajuraho and Maihar as well.

While in Pench, the home of Kipling’s iconic

work, The Jungle Book, stay at the enchanting

Pench Tree Lodge to get the true Mowgli

experience in the forests of ‘Sionee.’ Parks are

open between October and June.

MADHYA PRADESHBike through the Jungles of Central India———

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11HARYANA

Live Like a Rajputana Royal———Designed to embody the grandeur of the Rajputs and the style of the Mughals, the NoorMahal palace hotel (noormahal.in) in Karnal is just a two-hour drive from the traffi c snarls of Delhi. Situated amidst Haryana’s vast rice fi elds, the heritage hotel is awash with modern facilities, but retains palatial elements like elaborate courtyards, a canal network, and 100-foot-high minars. It offers an outdoor pool, a rejuvenating spa, a sports bar, a fi ne dining restaurant called Frontier Mail, a 24-hour coffee shop, and an open-air diner called Khaas Mahal. From here, visit Kurukshetra, the setting of the epic tale of Mahabharata. Club Royal

Room from `7,000; noormahal.in


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Puducherry is famous for its vibrant French Quarter, but few have explored the rich marine

life that lives in the waters surrounding the Union Territory. Sign up with Temple Adventures

(templeadventures.com), the only PADI-certified dive centre on the east coast of mainland India,

to discover magnificent coral reefs. Whether you’re a certified diver or considering taking your

first plunge, there’s a package for you here. Temple Adventures has pioneered the restoration

of reefs in the region and discovered dive sites, such as Aravind’s Wall, that have catapulted

the town’s popularity among diving bu�s. Make CGH Earth’s Franco-Tamil heritage property,

Maison Perumal, your home in Puducherry. Full board from `11,000; cghearth.com

PUDUCHERRYScuba Dive for Mainland India’s Best Reefs———

13

14ANDAMAN &

NICOBAR ISLANDS

Get Marooned on Virgin Islands———The twin islands of Ross and Smith, connected by an 800-metre-long sandbar, are a sight of breathtaking beauty. The sandbar waxes and wanes during the day, disappearing under the sea during high tide and resurfacing in low tide. Walk from one island to the other fl anked by clear, turquoise water, or go for a swim. There is almost no infrastructure here, and the number of visitors at any time is limited, thus enhancing the feeling of being marooned in an otherworldly place. October to April is a good time to visit for favourable weather. Access the twin islands on boat from Diglipur (15 minutes), through a handcrafted packag e. Go2Andamans.com


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Situated on the border of Nagaland and Manipur, the Dzukou Valley

presents a golden chance to engage in a conversation with nature.

During the monsoons, between June and October, the entire valley

is draped in a spread of flowers, quietly blooming over rolling hills.

The destination gives you a chance to stay with the locals, devour

traditional meals, try brewing and drinking rice beer, and wake up

to the view of golden rice fields. Hop on the next ChaloHoppo trek

(chalohoppo.com) to the valley. A two-night, all-inclusive camping

trip starts at `6,000 per person.

NAGALANDFind Solitude in the Dzukou Valley———

16JHARKHAND

Learn the Tribal Way of Life———

Base yourself in the capital of Ranchi, and visit the Munda tribe on a daytrip with

Eco India (ecoindia.com). Living on the Chota Nagpur plateau, the Munda people

hail from Southeast Asia. On your trip, you’ll meet the tribal families, share a meal

(that could include snakes and snails), and get a deeper understanding of their

history and everyday life in India’s far-fl ung corners. While in Ranchi, stay at

The Radisson Blu, the city’s only fi ve-star property, located close to the airport.

Rooms from `7,500 per night; radissonblu.com

15

UTTAR

PRADESH

Pray with the Stars in Varanasi———While most of India lights up during Diwali, Varanasi waits with bated breath for Dev Diwali, a festival celebrated on the full moon night that follows the Festival of Lights. It celebrates the victory of Lord Shiva over the demon Tripurasur. This is when the spiritual town witnesses a very special Ganga Aarti, an event of epic proportions that sees attendance of the who’s-who of India. The steps along the ghat are dotted with millions of earthen lamps, and every house is lit up. Remote Lands (remotelands.com) organises private tours. Dev Diwali falls on November 22 this year.

18

17DADRA &

NAGAR HAVELI

Go on a Journey through Time———With artefacts like kitchen tools, musical instruments, and fi shing gear, the Tribal Cultural Museum in the town of Silvassa provides a valuable insight into the tribal heritage of the region. At the museum, which is open to public from 9 am to 5 pm every day, one can also buy artefacts like Warli paintings, made popular by the eponymous tribe of the region. While in Silvassa, set some time aside to visit Japanese-style gardens like the Vanganga and Dadra Park, and shop for local handicrafts. Stay at the Keys Select Ras Resort built along the Daman Ganga River. Rooms from

`7,450; keyshotels.com


Far from the prying eyes of tourists lies the spectacular gorge

of Gandikota along the Pennar River in Andhra Pradesh. Often

called the Grand Canyon of India, this spectacular landscape looks

more out of an Arizona tourism booklet than Andhra. One can

also visit the medieval fort of Gandikota that was once considered

impregnable thanks to the protection provided by the gorge. While

in the area, drop by the Belum Caves, claimed to be the largest

accessible cave system in India. The best time to visit is between

September and February, when the land isn’t scorched by the sun.

21ANDHRA PRADESHExplore India’s Own Grand Canyon———

2019MANIPUR

Visit a Floating National Park———The world’s only fl oating national park is situated in Manipur. On a day tour of Keibul Lamjao National Park, say hello to the state’s endangered national animal, sangai, which lives on this marshland. The territory’s primary feature is the Loktak Lake, the country’s largest freshwater lake, dotted with numerous fl oating masses of vegetation. The nature of this terrain makes the gait of the sangai seem like a cool dance move, thereby lending it the nickname, ‘Dancing Deer’. The park also attracts a variety of migratory birds from Siberia between November and March. Join Imphal Walks (imphalwalks.com) on a customised day tour.

LAKSHADWEEP

Sail to Remote Islands on a Yacht———Charter a private luxury boat from West Coast Marine Boat Charters in Mumbai, and sail towards the isles of Lakshadweep. Literally meaning ‘A Hundred Thousand Islands’ in the local tongue, Lakshadweep is a set of 36 islands, each of which can give you a castaway experience. The islands of Kalpeni and Agatti are perfect spots to sunbathe and indulge in some watersports, including kayaking. In the evenings, lie on the deck watching sunsets over the sea and catching fi sh to grill. The best season to travel is between December and April. westcoastmarine.co.in


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23DELHI

Set up a Walking Date with Delhi———

On an exclusive walking tour of Old Delhi with the operator, Master Jee Ki

Haveli, get an in-depth understanding of the city’s culture, heritage, and history. The seven-hour walking tour includes sampling of street foods, a peak into

life during Mughal times, visits to atmospheric bazaars, a cycle-rickshaw

ride, and a languid meal in an old mansion, among others. The tour is even

more mystical when Delhi’s infamous winter fog sets in. Tours start from

`7,000 per person; masterjikeehaveli.

com. The spectacular Lodhi Hotel is a charming choice for accommodation.

From `13,000; thelodhi.com

22MIZORAM

Take a Village Tour

on Mountain Bikes———

Located just 50 kilometres from

the capital of Aizawl, Mt. Hmuifang

boasts numerous walking

and biking trails blessed with

panoramic views. A government-

run tourist resort (tourism.

mizoram.gov.in) offers high-quality

mountain bikes on rent and

guides for adventure seekers.

An eight-hour expedition to the

villages of Lungleng and Sialsuk

is for experienced bikers, while

riding to the summit of the hill is

relatively easy and rewarding. For

the less intrepid, a bio-diversity

trek to fi nd rare snakes, lizards,

and amphibians of the region is

also available at the resort.

In the three days following the festival of Holi,

an electric atmosphere grips the historic town

of Anandpur Sahib. Sikhs turn on the festivities,

wearing colourful turbans, wielding their

traditional weapons, and putting on a display of

special martial art techniques for Hola Mohalla,

a festival that exhibits mock fights. Meals are

consumed in large groups and are made available

to all visitors free of cost, as is the tradition across

gurdwaras. Take time out to visit Virasat-e-Khalsa,

a state-of-the-art museum of Sikh history. Make

your night halt at the nearby Bharatgarh Fort,

a 235-year-old fort converted into a heritage hotel.

From `5,000 per night; bharatgarhfort.com

24PUNJABRevel with the Locals at Holla Mohalla———


Nearly 5,000 families practise the fine art of weaving silk saris in

the town of Kanchipuram. Join 5 Senses Tours (5sensestours.com)

on a full-day trip from Chennai to meet some of these traditional

weavers and learn the secrets of the trade. The tour also gives you

an opportunity to buy the glitzy garments and includes a visit to

Pallava-style temples in the old town. In Chennai, base yourself at

the Park Hyatt, which overlooks the Guindy National Park.

From `10,000 per night; hyatt.com

25 TAMIL NADUGet the Inside Scoop on Weaving Silk Saris———

28UTTARAKHAND

Ski on the Slopes of Auli———One of India’s fi nest ski resorts, Auli in the Garhwal Himalayas is a smart choice for adventure junkies looking to learn the art of skiing. A local company, Auli Skiing (auliskiing.in), offers both skiing and snowboarding courses between January and March. Situated eight hours away from the nearest airport, Dehradun, Auli is not the easiest hill station to get to. But it is an excellent base to explore the religious sites of Badrinath and Kedarnath, two of the four stops in the Char Dham pilgrimage. Stay at Clifftop Club, a three-star secluded property. Rooms from `14,000

onwards; clifftopclubauli.com

27TRIPURA

Discover a Forgotten Kingdom———The erstwhile kingdom of Tripura left many architectural delights in the form of royal palaces that remain far from the madding crowd. Neermahal, one such red-white water palace, lies forgotten on the Rudrasagar Lake. Built by fusing both Mughal and Hindu styles of design, the palace is as elegant as its more popular peers of Udaipur. Closer to the capital, the Ujjayanta Palace has been converted into a state museum showcasing the rich history of the erstwhile kingdom. Hotel Sonar Tari is a no-frills hotel in Agartala which can arrange tours. From `4,000 per night;

hotelsonartoriagartala.com

26ARUNACHAL PRADESH

Groove to Indie Music at the Ziro Festival———

Nicknamed the ‘Woodstock of India’, the Ziro Festival of Music brings together

independent artists from all over India to the picturesque eponymous valley for a

four-day extravaganza. Surrounded by rice terraces, cotton candy skies, and jagged

mountains, the outdoor festival lays special emphasis on the music of the region.

Lie down on the grass with friends, gorge on local delicacies, camp under clear blue skies,

and give in to the sublime music. The festival will be held between September 27 and 30

this year. Book an all-inclusive package at zirofestival.com. From `16,000 per person


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Nearly 150 metres wide and 30 metres

high, the Chitrakoot Falls are the country’s

largest, thereby acquiring the nickname

‘India’s Niagara Falls’. Request a local

boatman to ferry you to the spray below

the falls, or take a walk around the falls.

The right time to visit is between July and

November, when the Indravati River is

in full flow and rainbows are a common

occurrence. The falls are a five-hour

cab ride from the capital, Raipur, where

you can stay at the Hyatt Raipur.

From `4,500 per night; hyatt.com

CHHATTISGARHWitness the Thumping Chitrakoot Falls———

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32GUJARAT

Lose Yourself on the Great Rann ———The seasonal salt marsh of the Rann of Kutch feels like the end of the world. The annual festival here, the Rann Utsav, is scheduled to take place between November 1 and February 20 later this year. Take flight on a hot air balloon above the salt flats, embark on a camel safari on the endless salt plains, celebrate the musical genius of local artists, and buy traditional handicrafts from artisans of the region. During the festival, a tent city pops up right in the middle of the desertscape. This is where you can live in imperial style at the Darbari or Rajwadi suites. Doubles from `20,000;

rannutsav.net

31KARNATAKA

Take a Heritage Train Journey———Hop aboard The Golden Chariot (the-

golden-chariot.com), one of India’s finest luxury trains, to unearth the gems of Karnataka’s rich heritage and history. The eight-day journey christened ‘The Pride of the South’ begins in Bengaluru and goes through Kabini, Mysore, Hassan, and the heritage sites of Hampi and Badami, before bringing you back to base. The train runs only between October and March every year. While in Bengaluru, stay at the Hilton Embassy Golf Links. From `8,500 per night;

www3.hilton.com

33ASSAM

Cruise on the Brahmaputra———

Spend a week onboard the luxury

vessel, MV Mahabaahu, that sails on

the mighty Brahmaputra River, and

get an enviable view of Assam in all

its natural glory. Begin in Guwahati or

Jorhat and go in the other direction

covering tea plantations, the world’s

largest river island—Majuli, and visit

the mesmerising Kaziranga National

Park where the endangered one-

horned rhino awaits. Amenities include

a spa, bespoke meals, a swimming

pool, lounge bars, and more. Pick the

luxury cabin with balcony to wake

up to unforgettable sunrises. From

`3,00,000, mahabaahucruiseindia.com

Set o� on a drive from Pune, and under three hours, you reach the

Fratelli Vineyards (fratelliwines.in) in Akluj, Solapur, the gateway into

the world of Indian wines. Book a day trip to indulge in an unlimited

tasting of Fratelli’s signature wines, enrol for a masterclass if you want

to refine your wine knowledge, snack on home-cooked Italian food, and

drive around the vineyards on a tour. January to March is the harvest

season, and hence, the best time to visit. As you return to Pune, check

into the Hyatt Regency, renowned for its spa and proximity to the

airport. Rooms from `7,500 per night; hyatt.com

30 MAHARASHTRASample India’s Finest Wines———


34CHANDIGARH

Get a Lesson in Modern Architecture———‘Smart cities’ aren’t new. The Swiss-French architect, Le Corbusier, was commissioned by the then Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, in 1950 to construct a smart urban city—Chandigarh. Corbusier’s genius is evident in the fact that present-day Chandigarh remains one of the best planned cities in the country. The Le Corbusier Centre, which was once the architect’s office, is now a museum exhibiting his life’s work and the planning that went into conceptualising Chandigarh. Stay at the award-winning property, The Lalit, and sign up for their curated experiences including a visit to the Le Corbusier Centre. From `8,500; thelalit.com

35WEST BENGAL

Experience Bengali Royalty

at Rajbari Bawali———

Once home to the zamindars, the Rajbari

at Bawali (therajbari.com) is a heritage

property where travellers can get a taste

of Bengal’s opulent past. While here,

sail down the holy waters of the River

Hooghly, or go on a bicycle ride through

the countryside before retiring to your

luxe room. Pick the elegant royal suite

to experience Bengali heritage in its full

glory. In Kolkata, stay at The Park, the

group’s flagship property on Park Street.

From `6,000, theparkhotels.com

At 5,425 metres, the pristine Gurudongmar Lake is among the highest on the planet. A 12-hour

journey from Gangtok through some of the most treacherous roads brings you to the lake surrounded

by glaciers and mountains. Due to the low oxygen levels here, you should not spend more than an

hour to click photographs and absorb every bit of the panoramic view. In winters, the lake freezes over,

while in spring, the route is a riot of colours, thanks to all the rhododendron around. Go at the right time,

and you can witness a surreal combination of these two events. Galaxy Tours (tourhimalayas.com)

conducts a 2N/3D tour. In Gangtok, stay at the Elgin Nor-Khill, which is reputed to have hosted the likes

of Dalai Lama and Richard Gere. From `12,000 per night; elginhotels.com

36 SIKKIMWitness the Wonders of an Alpine Lake———

The maps used in the story are for illustrative purposes only and are not claimed to be either true or correct.The official boundary of India is as notified by the Survey of India. (Maps not to scale)

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CELEBRATING

GUTS & GLORY

Winners of the 2018 Sports Illustrated India Sportsperson Of The Year Awards pose with their trophies

(L to R) Vivek Pareek, Editorial Director - Sports Illustrated

(L to R) Indian tennis ace Leander Paes receives

Sector, RIL

Associate Partner

Partner

PR Partner Souvenir Partner

*

it was an evening to remember as India's biggest sporting icons ...

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