INFLUENCE OF FABRIC PARAMETERS ON KNITTED ...

e-ISSN: 2582-5208 International Research Journal of Modernization in Engineering Technology and Science

Volume:03/Issue:05/May-2021 Impact Factor- 5.354 www.irjmets.com

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INFLUENCE OF FABRIC PARAMETERS ON KNITTED FABRICS

M Gopalakrishnan*1, Mahendran D*2, Pavithra L*3

*1Assistant Professor, Department Of Textile Technology, Bannari Amman Institute Of Technology,

Sathyamangalam, Erode District, Tamil Nadu, India.

*2,3Student, Department Of Textile Technology, Bannari Amman Institute Of Technology,

Sathyamangalam, Erode District, Tamil Nadu, India.

ABSTRACT

We all know that knitted fabrics are good at shape fitting, smoothness, flexibility, elasticity and exhibits good

elastic recovery. All these characteristics of knitted fabrics are influenced by certain knit parameters like yarn

count, loop length, CPI, WPI, GSM and so on. This study is mainly focused on single jersey, rib, interlock and

their derivatives fabric structures, count and loop length, WPI, CPI and so on. But till now, there is no

scale/standard data for concluding average values of such parameters based on the demand. These data were

only gained by years of experience in the knitting industry. And there is no data to help the green horns in the

industry. To solve this issue, we studied various kinds of fabrics which were successfully done in bulk quantity

swatches and analysed their parameters, made a database of them, calculated average of them and concluded to

make a links between these parameters. So that, through these links of our database any person can initiate the

knitting operation knowing what would be the average value of the parameters of the resultant fabric.

Keywords: GSM, Yarn Count, Loop Length, Single Jersey, Rib And Interlock.

I. INTRODUCTION

A knitted fabric is produced by inter-looping of yarns. Basically knitting process is classified into weft knitting

and warp knitting. A weft knitted fabric is produced where the stitches or loops runs from left to right

horizontally across the fabric. The difference between warp and weft knitting is the way of intermeshing of

loops. Weft knitted fabric is formed by the intermeshing of loops in horizontal direction where warp knitted

fabrics are formed by the intermeshing of loops in vertical direction. Weft knitting process is further classified

into Tubular knitting and flat knitting. Tubular knitting is further classified into single knitted and double

knitted. This classification is based on the usage of set of needles. Single knitted fabrics are made by using single

set of needle and appear smooth on one side and piled on other side which means appearance of face and back

is different. Double knitted fabrics are made by using two set of needles and appearance of face and back is

same. Knitted fabric qualities comes under single knitted fabrics are Single jersey and its derivatives. Knitted

fabric qualities comes under double knitted fabrics are rib, interlock and their derivatives. For knitted fabrics

Yarn count, loop length and GSM is mainly considered. For this purpose, a data is made. To make valuable

database, effective data are required. So we decided to collect such effective data from the fabric samples which

are successfully done in bulk quantity swatches. Hence the data from such samples are definitely valuable and

in turn helps in producing fabric in future which will be done in bulk quantity. Data here includes basic knitted

parameters such as CPI, WPI, Loop length, Yarn count and GSM [1].

II. ANALYSIS OF DIFFERENT FABRIC STRUCTURES AND PARAMETERS

There are few essential parameters (yarn count, GSM, loop length, CPI, WPI) which determines the quality of a

fabric. In this project, we are going to analyse various fabrics structures and their parameters.

SINGLE JERSEY

The simplest knit structure is Single jersey and is produced in circular knit machines and it is widely used

structure of all. This can be produced in flat machines also. The face side of the fabric is different from the back

side normally reverse in structure. It forms the ‘V’ appearance in the stitch in the face of the fabric called

technical face and the back side is called technical back. It curls more than other class of knits [2].




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Figure 1: Single jersey structure

CHARACTERISTICS OF SINGLE JERSEY

Appearance of Face and back side of fabric are different.

Wales are clearly visible on the face side of fabric.

Curling at edges while cutting.

Lengthwise elongation is lower than width wise elongation.

Unravelling of yarn is easier.

Thickness of fabric is twice the yarn diameter.

FEATURES OF SINGLE JERSEY

It has excellent drape ability and crease recovery

Outstanding shape retention in knitwear.

Easy operation of machine which leads to more production and makes it suitable for stripes, checks and

jacquard designs.

Machines with multi cam track which helps to produce jersey derivative designs like pique, Lacoste,

popcorn, twill etc., for the production of t-shirts.

APPLICATIONS

Infant wear

Ladies tops

Innerwear

T shirts

RIB

Rib is a double jersey fabric. The vertical stitches called wales are alternatively intermeshed into the face and

back side of the rib fabric. These kind of fabric produces high degree of elasticity. It produces a vertical lines

called rib in the fabric. [3].

Figure 2: Rib Structure

CHARACTERISTICS OF RIB FABRIC

Appearance of Face and back side of fabric are identical.

Fabric thickness is twice that of single jersey.

Fabric does not curl at edges due to balance structure.

Structure is more opaque than jersey fabrics.




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APPLICATIONS

Typical trim fabric

Sweaters

Cap

Scarf

Socks

Winter gloves

INTERLOCK

Interlock is similar to rib structure but it has slight variation in structure. In rib, the knit and purl stitches are

formed in single ridges of knits. Whereas, In interlock a two set of rows of stitches are formed. This will produce

a double knit fabric with the face and back are similar to each other [4].

Figure 3: Interlock structure

CHARACTERISTICS OF INTERLOCK FABRIC

Appearance of Face and back side of fabric are identical.

Fabric thickness is twice that of single jersey

Fabric does not curl at edges due to balance structure.

Can be unravelled from end last knitted.

APPLICATIONS

All sort of elastic garments

Sportswear

Polo T-shirts

Lightweight pants.

DIVERSITY OF THE DATA

To make the database beneficial for everyone, we extended our analysis, not only on basic fabrics like Single

jersey, Rib, Interlock but also over their derivatives. Because as many kinds of fabric types a database carries, as

many kinds of future orders it can be referred with.

SINGLE JERSEY

Fortunately, many kinds of derivatives of the single jersey fabrics were available for this analysis. As there is

much kind of derivatives in single jersey, we tried to collect data from as many types as possible. Some they are

Single tuck pique. Double tuck pique, Triple tuck pique, Single tuck honeycomb pique, Double tuck honeycomb

pique, Single miss pique, 2T French terry(normal loop), 3T French terry(normal loop) [5]

Figure 4: Single jersey fabric




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RIB

Fortunately, many kinds of derivatives of the Rib fabrics were available for this analysis. As there is much kind

of derivatives in Rib, we tried to collect data from as many types as possible. Some they are 1*1 Rib, 2*1 Rib,

Miss Waffle, Double tuck waffle, Triple tuck waffle, Ottaman rib [6].

Figure 5: Rib fabric

INTERLOCK

Fortunately, many kinds of derivatives of the interlock fabrics were available for this analysis. As there is much

kind of derivatives in interlock, we tried to collect data from as many types as possible. Some them are 1*1

Interlock, Birds eye interlock (Plain), Birds eye interlock (with stripes), Ottaman interlock [7].

Figure 6: Interlock fabric

CONCLUDED DATA OF SINGLE JERSEY

Thus for any bulk order which requires GSM from 150-190 needs to be made from single jersey fabrics, the

knitting operation should proceed with parameters ranging from loop length-0.30mm (+2, -2), WPI-36 (+3, -

3), CPI-48 (+2,-2), 24 gauge and 30 or 32 diameter for optimum production. Fabric with such specifications can

be used as a body fabric for a summer wear garments. This may vary due to buyer’s demand and current

fashion trend in the market [8].

Table 1: Single jersey’s concluded data

Quality

Yarn

count

Loop

length WPI CPI GSM Diameter Gauge

Yarn dyed 32s 0.3004 36.6 47.3 149.7 30 24

Yarn dyed 34s 0.299 38 48 146.6 32 24

Yarn dyed 30s 0.3019 36 48.5 161.1 30 24

Yarn dyed 24s 0.3339 33.75 42.8 183.81 30 24

Solid dyed 32s 0.2889 36.5 52 156.7 30 24

Solid dyed 30s 0.2888 39.5 49.5 172 30 24

Solid dyed 40s 0.2715 43.5 50 137.2 32 28

Solid dyed 28s 0.3105 37 45 168.8 30 24

Solid dyed 24s 0.3208 35.2 43.8 188.28 30 24




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Plain 32s 0.2982 37.9 46.7 150.48 30 24

Plain 33s 0.2933 39 49 155.33 32 24

Plain 30s 0.2946 38 49.5 168.7 30 24

Plain 26s 0.302 34 47 169.7 30 24

Plain 24s 0.3242 34.25 44.75 188.98 30 24

CONCLUDED DATA OF RIB

Thus for any bulk order which requires GSM from 200-300 needs to be made from rib fabrics, the knitting

operation should proceed with parameters ranging from loop length -0.30mm (+2, -2), WPI-58 (+3, -3), CPI-50

(+2,-2), 18 gauge and 30 diameter for optimum production. Fabric with such specifications can be used as trim

fabrics especially for collar and cuff fabric. This may vary due to buyer’s demand and current fashion trend in

the market [9].

Table 2: Rib’s concluded data

Quality

Yarn

count

Loop

length WPI CPI GSM Diameter Gauge

Yarn dyed 30s 0.2793 62 43 226.9 30 18

Plain 39s 0.2561 68 58 236.8 30 18

Plain 34s 0.2950 66 48.5 255.15 30 18

Plain 32s 0.3206 56 38 194.9 30 18

Plain 30s 0.2908 58 53 272.49 30 18

Plain 28s 0.2916 56.6 43 231.4 30 18

Plain 26s 0.3025 56 42 250.2 30 18

Plain 24s 0.319 54 40 262.5 30 18

Solid dyed 32s 0.2852 56 43.5 212.95 30 18

Solid dyed 30s 0.3232 55.3 47 255.53 30 18

Solid dyed 26s 0.3203 56 42 265 28 18

Solid dyed 24s 0.3254 53.6 46 305.7 30 18

CONCLUDED DATA OF INTERLOCK

Thus for any bulk order which requires GSM from 190-240 needs to be made from interlock fabrics, the

knitting operation should proceed with parameters ranging from yarn count, loop length-0.30mm (+2, -2), WPI-

40 (+3, -3), CPI-78 (+2,-2), 28 gauge and 30 diameter for optimum production. Fabric with such specifications

can be used for Polo T shirts. This may vary due to buyer’s demand and current fashion trend in the market

[10].

Table 3: Interlock’s concluded data

Quality Yarn count Loop length WPI CPI GSM Diameter Gauge

Solid dyed 44s 0.3178 40 78 206.8 30 28

Plain 44s 0.3178 40 78 206.8 30 28




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Yarn dyed 40s 0.3100 40 78.14 220.8 30 28

Yarn dyed 30s+50s+50D

Mock twist-

0.2808,Ring

spun-

0.2858,Poly-

0.2747 40 88.6 190.7 30 28

CONCLUDED DATA OF PIQUE

Thus for any bulk order which requires GSM from 200-230 needs to be made from pique fabrics, the knitting

operation should proceed with parameters ranging from yarn count, loop length-0.29mm & 0.28mm (+2, -2),

WPI-30 (+3, -3), CPI-75 (+5,-5), 24 gauge and 30 diameter for optimum production. Fabric with such

specifications can be used for T-shirts. This may vary due to buyer’s demand and current fashion trend in the

market [10].

Table 4: Pique’s concluded data

Quality

Yarn

count Loop length WPI CPI GSM Diameter Gauge

All knit knit&tuck

Solid

dyed

34s+30D

spandex 0.278 0.276 33 83 211.5 30 24

solid

dyed

30s+30D

spandex 0.283 0.274 29.6 83.3 216.1 30 24

Solid

dyed 26s 0.2793 0.275 27 81 213.15 30 24

Solid

Dyed 24s 0.278 0.276 30 69 217 30 24

Solid

dyed 20s 0.323 0.321 25 63 231 30 20

Plain

30s+30D

spandex 0.2785 0.2755 29 86 217.4 30 24

All over

print 26s 0.277 0.273 28 77 208.5 30 24

All over

print 24s 0.285 0.281 29 72 225.1 30 24

Yarn

dyed

30s+30D

spandex 0.2806 0.276 29.6 78 202.6 30 24

Yarn

dyed 23s 0.2835 0.28 27.5 71.5 220.08 32 24

Yarn

dyed 26s 0.273 0.271 27 87 224.7 30 24

Yarn

dyed 20s 0.331 0.322 26 58 225.1 30 24

CONCLUDED DATA OF WAFFLE

Thus for any bulk order which requires GSM from 190-250 needs to be made from waffle fabrics, the knitting

operation should proceed with parameters ranging from yarn count, loop length- 0.30mm&0.26mm (+4, -4),

WPI-45 (+5, -5), CPI-65 (+5,-5), 18 gauge and 34 diameter for optimum production. Fabric with such




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specifications can be used for tunic tops for women and also T shirts. This may vary due to buyer’s demand and

current fashion trend in the market.

Table 5: Waffle’s concluded data

Quality

Yarn

count Loop length WPI CPI GSM Diameter Gauge

All knit knit&tuck

Solid

dyed 34s 0.284 0.1906 56 74 239.89 34 18

Solid

dyed 34s 0.303 0.295 42 57 192.8 26 18

Solid

dyed 30s 0.341 0.1979 55.3 62.6 256.8 34 18

Solid

dyed 30s 0.280 0.1427 52 63.5 235.61 34 18

III. CONCLUSION

Essential parameters like yarn count, stitch length, GSM controls the properties of weft knitted fabric. Mainly

stitch length and yarn count plays a vital role in knitted fabric structure. So we hope that, our database will be a

potential reference for the future orders to be carried out and reduces uncertainties for initialising the knitting

operation for any orders. Also we are not claiming that with our database in anyone’s hand, he/she can start a

knitting operation. Because, based on the future demand and order requirement these parameters may vary

and our database, gives an appropriate values of such knit parameters and not accurate values. To be more

accurate more parameters and testing reports of the fabrics are needed. From the analysis, given an idea about

basic knitted fabric and their derivatives which shows better performance for the selection of parameters to get

accurate GSM.

IV. REFERENCES [1] Jiang T, Dhingra R C, Chan C K and Abbas M S: Effect of Yarn and Fabric Construction on Spirality of

Cotton single Jersey Fabrics, Textile Res J, 67, 57-68 (1997).

[2] Analysis of Specification of basic single jersey Fabric, Supervised by Shah Alimuzzaman.

[3] Https://www.researchgate.net/publication/321161342_Effect_of_Knitting_Parameters_and_Stitch_Ty

pe_on_the_Grey_GSM_of_Circular_Weft_Knitted_Fabrics

[4] Https://www.slideshare.net/88azmir/different-parts-of-knitting-machine-and-para

[5] Http://www.fibtex.lodz.pl/2011/5/87.pdf

[6] Ramesh Kumar, C., et al., Comparative studies on ring rotor and vortex yarn knitted fabrics. Autex Res.

J, 2008. 8: p. 100-105.

[7] Https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/calculations-of-circular-weft-knitted

fabric/#:~:text=Technical%20parameters%20involved%20in%20the,%2C%20spirality%2C%20fabri

c%20width%20etc.

[8] Kane, C., U. Patil, and P. Sudhakar, Studies on the influence of knit structure and stitch length on ring

and compact yarn single jersey fabric properties. Textile Research Journal, 2007. 77(8): p. 572-582.

[9] Ramakrishna, S., Characterization and modeling of the tensile properties of plain weft-knit fabric-

reinforced composites. Composites Science and Technology, 1997. 57(1): p. 1-22.

[10] Https://www.researchgate.net/publication/258888527_Research_on_the_effect_of_some_knitting_par

ameters_on_properties_of_cottonlycra_knitted_fabrics_during_relaxation_process.

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