Ferment Your Drinks
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Transcript of Ferment Your Drinks
KOMBUCHA,KEFIR,ANDBEYOND
AFUN&FLAVORFULGUIDETOFERMENTINGyourown
PROBIOTICBEVERAGESathome
ALEXLEWIN&RAQUELGUAJARDO
CONTENTS
PREFACES
1WHYFERMENTYOURDRINKS?
2OURCULTUREDHISTORY
3FERMENTATION,SCIENCE,ANDHEALTH
4BEFOREYOUSTART
5FIVE-MINUTERECIPES
6STARTERS,MASTERRECIPES,ANDGENERALPRINCIPLES
7KOMBUCHAANDJUN
8VEGETABLEDRINKS
9SODAS
10BEERS,GRAINS,ANDROOTS
11WINES,CIDERS,ANDFRUITS(ANDVINEGAR!)
12MEXICANPRE-HISPANICDRINKS
13FERMENTEDCOCKTAILS
RESOURCES
ABOUTTHEAUTHORS
RECIPEDIRECTORY
INDEX
PREFACES
RAQUELGUAJARDOIWASBORNandraisedinMonterrey,NuevoLeón,anindustrialtownsurroundedbymountainsinthenorthofMexicothatiswellknownforitscarneasada,cabrito,tortilladeharina,andbeer.Asaproudregiomontana,Ihavealwayslovedbeer,butIdidn’tassociateitwithfermentation,andneverinmywildestdreamscouldIhaveimaginedmyselfbrewingmyown.Forme,fermentationstartedinSeattle,Washington,duringaRealFood
CookingCoursetaughtbyMonicaCorrado.Amongotherthings,shetaughtmehowtomakesauerkrautandtheprinciplesoffermentation.SherecommendedthebookWildFermentationbySandorKatz,andsoonIwashookedoneverythingfermented.Then,twoyearsago,IinvitedSandortoteachaworkshopinMonterrey.More
peoplegothooked,andIgotinspiredtoexperimentandcomeupwithmyownrecipes.ThenIinvitedAlextoteachanotherfermentationworkshopinMonterrey,on
kimchiandthescienceoffermentation.Duringhisstay,hetastedacoupleofmyfermentedbeverages,andIamprettysureheenjoyedthem.Afterall,theideaforthisbookwasborninmykitchenaswedrankpulqueandtepache.
ALEXLEWINIGREWUPintheNortheastoftheU.S.,inNewYork,Connecticut,andMassachusetts.IstartedthinkingandreadingaboutfoodandhealthwhenIwasinmy20s.Onebookwouldsayonething,anotherbookwouldsaysomethingdifferentandincompatible,andbothwouldhavegoodjustificationsforwhattheysaid.Iwascuriousbynature,andatthetimeIhatedunsolvedmysteries,soIstartedreadingmore.ThisledmeonapathofdiscoveryinformedbyAndrewWeil,SandorKatz,SallyFallon,theInstituteforIntegrativeNutrition,theCambridgeSchoolofCulinaryArts,andmanymore.Infact,myviewsareinformedbyalmosteveryoneItalkwithabouthealthandfood.AndIhavemademypeacewithunsolvedmysteries—therewillalwaysbesomethingsthatwedon’tknow,andI’mokaywiththat.Fermentation,especiallywithwildstarters,dependingasitdoesoninvisibleforcesandserendipity,isagreatstageonwhichtodancewiththeunknown.
IspeakforbothRaquelandmyselfwhenIsaythatwe’veenjoyedbeinglearningpartnerstogether.Ourskillsandperspectivesandcommunitiesaresimilarinsomanyways,andcomplementaryinsomanyothers;workingtogetherhasbeenfunandenlightening.Weareallstrongerwhenweworktogether,embracingdifference,diversity,
theunfamiliar,andtheunknown.Donotletmisguideddemagoguessuggestotherwise.Wehopethatyouenjoythisbookthatwe’vebrewedupforyou.Salud!
CHAPTERONE
WHYFERMENTYOURDRINKS?Weareinthemidstofahealthcrisis—or,toputit
anotherway,adiseasecrisis.Forproof,justturnonthe
television.You’llbeexhortedtobuydiabetes
maintenanceequipment;cholesterol-loweringdrugs
withsignificantsideeffects;digestivenostrumsthat
bluntunpleasantsymptomswithoutaddressing
underlyingcauses;allergypillsthatsuppressthe
immunesystem;painkillers;andmore.
Theinterspersedcommercialsareforsugarydrinks,junkfood,andtoxicpersonalcareandcleaningproducts,theuseofwhichlikelycontributestoconditionssuchasdiabetes,cardiovasculardisease,digestiveproblems,andallergies.Soundfamiliar?Itdoesn’tseemlikethisisacompletecoincidence.Loveitorhateit,advertisingisareliablebellwether:Thecommercialswesee
aretheonesthatsellproductandmakemoney.SuperBowlcommercials,forexample,arethecaviarofthedomesticadvertisingworld.Guaranteedmillionsofviewers,theseadscost10milliondollarsperminute.Yetduringthe2016SuperBowl,wesawanadforadrugtoaddressaveryspecificmaladythatmanyofushadneverconsidered:opioid-inducedconstipation.Opioidsareopium-derivedandopium-relateddrugs,includingalonglistofprescriptionpainkillersandstreetdrugs.Ifwewereanationofhealthypeople,we’dbeseeingdifferentcommercials.MexicofindsitselfinthesameboatastheUnitedStates.Itisoneofthe
world’smostobesecountrieswithoneofthehighestinfantdiabetesrates.Americanfastfoodchainsandsupermarketshavebeencrowdingoutmercados,wherefreshseasonalfoodusedtobefound.Fortheyoungergenerations,buyingAmericanfastfoodispartofthemodernwayoflife,coolandhip,likehavingacellphone,whereasthetypicalgrandmafoodssuchaspozole,tamales,andmole
areold-fashioned.Eventhetortilla,thehallmarkofMexicanfood,haschangedfortheworse,andsadly,traditionaltortilleríasaredisappearing.AstheUnitedStatesgoes,sogonotonlyherAmericanneighbors,butmuch
oftheworld.Withtheexpansionofmarketsforbig-businessfoodandtobaccoproductscomesdiabetes,heartdisease,obesity,cancer,andchronicdigestiveandimmunesystemdysfunction.Andthesemaladiescreatenewmarketsforpharmaceuticalproducts.Aredrugsreallythebestwaytobreakthiscycle?Maybefermentedbeverages
canhelp.
WHATISFERMENTATION,ANYWAY?Fermentationisthetransformationoffoodthroughtheactionofmicrobes.Microbesaremicroscopiclifeforms,includingbacteria,yeasts,andmolds.(Virusesaresometimesconsideredmicrobes.Theyhavenometabolism,sotheyaren’tdirectagentsoffermentation,andtheywon’tbediscussedhere.)Viachemicalreactions,thesemicrobestransformcarbohydrates(sugarsandstarches)intoacids,alcohols,andgases.Alongtheway,smallbutusefulamountsofvitaminsandenzymesarecreatedtoo.Digestionreferstoprocessesinlivingorganismsthatbreakdownfoodinto
variouscomponents.Digestionisgenerallyacceleratedbyheatandcatalyzedbyspecialproteinscalledenzymes.Enzymesareemployedbyalllifeforms,frommicrobestomammals.Infact,itturnsoutthatmanyofthesameenzymesusedbymicrobesarealsofoundinthehumandigestivetract.Thisisnotacoincidence—manyofourgutenzymesarecreatedbymicrobesthatlivethere.Theseenzymesplayacrucialroleinhumandigestion.Theseenzymesalsoplayacrucialroleinfermentation,whichhappenswhen
microbesusethemtostartbreakingdownfood.Thesemicrobesareeffectivelypredigestingourfermentingfood,insomeofthesamewaysthatweourselvesdigestfoodinsideourbodies,usingsomeofthesameenzymes.Sowhenweeatfermentedfoods,wearegettingaheadofthegame;thesefoodsareeasierforourbodiestodigest.Thismayhelpustobetterassimilateimportantnutrientsfromthefood—wehavemoretimetobreakdowncompoundsthatcouldinhibitnutrientuptake.Itmayalsoreducedifficult-to-digestandinflammatorycompounds,sowefacefewersignsofdigestivedifficultiessuchasgas,bloating,acidreflux,andheartburn.Thishelpsustomitigate,avoid,andsometimesreversechroniclong-termdigestivediseases.Asby-productsofmetabolismanddigestion,somemicrobescreate
meaningfulamountsofBandC
vitamins.Somemicrobesalsocreateother,moreobscurehumannutrients,includingsomewhosefunctionswearestilllearningaboutandsomethatwemayneverknowaboutorunderstand.Additionally,manyoftheproductsoffermentationpromotehealth,staveoffdisease,and/oractivelyreversesometypesofhealthproblemsinhumansandotherbiggercreatures.Thisisparticularlythecasewhensmallamountsofmineralsororganicmaterials,suchasherbs,areincludedinthefermentingprocess.Weareonlybeginningtounderstandsomeofthesubstancesandmechanismsinvolved.
EATREALFOODSFoodsciencedoesnotnecessarilyprioritizethediscoveryofnewfoodnutrients—there’smuchmoreincentivetoinventnewindustrialprocessesthatsavetimeandmoney,ortocreatenewflavoringsforpotatochipsandfastfood.Fromthepointofviewofhumanhealth,foodscienceadvancesslowly,sometimestakingtwostepsforwardandonestepback.Unfortunately,thatmeansthemessagesthatreachconsumersaboutwhattheyshouldorshouldn’teatmaynotbefocusedonwhatwouldhelpthemmaintainrobusthealth.Becausefoodscienceisn’tfocusedonnutrition,it’sworthourwhiletoseek
outrealfoods—foodsthatarecloseinformtohowtheyoccurinnature,processedinthehomekitchen,withtracecompoundsintact.Industriallyprocessedfoodsalmostalwayslosenutritionalvalueduringprocessing;eveniftheylookokayonpaper,theyareoftenstrippedofpoorlyunderstoodorunknowntracecompounds.Theirproductionprocessservesthefoodproducersfirstandthepublicsecondorthirdornotatall.ConsiderthestoryofSoylent:In2013,apairofyoungentrepreneurswere
creatingtechproductsthattheyhopedwouldchangetheworld.Becausetheywantedtomaximizethetimetheyspentworkingontheirprojects,theywerefrustratedthatittooksolongtoselect,procure,prepare,andeatfood.Sothey
appliedtheirconsiderableanalyticskillstotheproblemoffood,andafterresearchingmoderndietaryscience,theycameupwithaformulaforamealreplacementthatincludedallknownessentialnutrients,inamountsandproportionsconsistentwiththerecommendationsoftheexperts.Theirgoalwastocreatean“adultformula”thatpeoplecouldconsumeexclusivelyandindefinitely.Theirfriendswerenaturallycuriousaboutwhattheyweredoingandwhytheyneverwantedtosharemealsanymore.Interestincreased,andsoontheyformedanewcompanytosellthemealreplacement,whichtheycalledSoylent.They’vebeensellingSoylenteversince,andthey’vealsoexpandedtheircompanymissiontoincludefeedingpeopleinneed,intheUnitedStatesandaroundtheworld.Theygetfullpointsfortheirsocialmission.Theycanhelpalotofhungry
peoplewithSoylent.Itissurelyeffectiveasashort-termoremergencymealreplacementforpeoplewithoutaccesstofood.Butasalong-termmealreplacement?It’sdoubtfulthatcurrentdietaryscienceknowseverythingthereistoknowaboutthenutrientsthathumansneedtothrive.Itseemslikelythat,50yearsfromnow,wewilllookbackandthink,“Ican’tbelievetheydidn’tknowtoincludevitaminZ!”orsomethingalongthoselines.Theearlytwentiethcenturysawhugeadvancesinnutrition,withnew
nutrientsbeingdiscoveredquiteoften;sincethen,therateofadvancementhasslowedalot,whichcouldleadonetobelievethatweareapproachingfullunderstanding.Butoften,whenwethinkthatwefinallyunderstandafieldofsciencecompletely,wegetarudeawakeningafewyears(orafewdecades)later.Justforexample,inthe1890s,arespectedphysicistnamedAlbertAbrahamMichelsonsaid,“mostofthegrandunderlyingprinciples[ofphysics]havebeenfirmlyestablished,”anddeclaredthatallthatremainedwasincreasingtheprecisionofmeasurements.Tenyearslater,theworldofphysicswasshakentoitscorebyAlbertEinsteinandrelativity,thenagainnottoolongafterbyMaxPlanckandquantumphysics.Physicstodayhasmanymoreopenquestionsthanitdid120yearsago!
WHAT’SINANAME?
ThenamesoylentisareferencetoafoodproductinthesciencefictionnovelMakeRoom!MakeRoom!andtoitsbetter-knownmovieadaptationSoylentGreen.Inboththebookandthemovie,globaloverpopulationandclimatechangeleadtomiserableconditionsonEarth,andmostofthepopulationaresurvivingonfullyindustrializedfoodrations,initiallymadeofacombinationofsoyandlentils(soylent).Inthemovie,thefoodsituationgetsmoredire,andthesoylent
formulaundergoesseveralrevisions;attheend,itisrevealedthatthelatestversionofthisfood,SoylentGreen,containsanunexpectedandshockingingredient.
Whateverthe(real)company’sintentioninassociatingitselfwiththisstory,itwasagreatmarketingmove—itgotthemalotofattention.
Humannutritionisevenhardertostudythanphysics.Conditionsarehardertocontrol,goodexperimentsarehardertodesign,andexperimentssometimestakedecadesfromconceptiontostarttofinish.Andethicalconcernsmakehumanexperimentsmorecomplicatedthanothersortsofexperiments—youcan’tingoodconscienceexperimentonahumanthewayyoucanonanatom,orevenarat.Soitseemsextremelyunlikelythathumannutritionisa“solved”field.WhatmineralorvitamincofactormightbemissingfromSoylent,andwhat
mightbethelong-termeffectsofeatingonlysyntheticfood?Ifyoufeelconfidentthatweknoweverythingthereistoknowaboutnutrients,andthatyoucangetallofthemfromamanufacturedpowder,thenfeelfreetobetyourlifeonit!Otherwise,youmightconsiderincludingtraditionalfoodinyourdiet,thekindthathasseenhumanpopulationssurviveandoftenthriveformillenniaandthatcontainsnutrientsthatwedon’tyetknowabout.Humanpopulationsathousandyearsagohadhealthchallenges,tobesure,buttheydidn’thavetheparticularproblemsthatwehavenow,onthescalethatwehavethem,eventakingintoaccountthechangesinaveragelifespan.
INDUSTRIALFOOD:CAVEATEMPTOR
Dietaryguidelineschangeovertheyears.Thisispartlybecausescienceprogressesandourunderstandingofhumanhealthevolves.Butthechangesarenotalwaysmovingusinthedirectionofincreasedhealth.Marketers,regulators,andevenscientistsallhavetheirownagendasthatarenotalwaysalignedwiththeadvancementoftruthorwiththeinterestsofpeoplewhoeatfood.
Amarketer’spriority,forinstance,istoincreasesalesofhisorherproducts.Therearesomelimits,ofcourse;ifaproductharmsorkillscustomers,forinstance,itcouldleadtoadamagedreputation,expensivelawsuits,and/orregulatoryactionfromgovernmentagencies.Thesenegativesmustbeweighedagainstthepositivesofincreasedsales.Acompany’sdesiredimageplaysaroleindeterminingwherethebalancelies.Somecompaniesdependonbeingknownforhealthyproductsandstewardshipoftheearthtohelpdrivetheirsales.Othersmayfocusmoreonoperationalefficienciesthathelpthemsellatalowerpricethantheircompetition.Stillothersmayfocusoncleveradvertising(forexample,breakfastcerealswithcartooncharacters)todrivesales.Inanycase,companiesthatwishtosurvivemusttrytoconvincepeopletobuytheirproducts.Regardlessoflong-termhealthbenefitsordetriments,theirmarketingmessageisalwayssomeversionof“youshouldeatthis.”
Regulatorsmuststrikeabalancebetweenprotectingcitizensandenablingcommerce.Regulationsnecessarilychangeslowly,moreslowlythanourunderstandingofhumanhealthevolves—ifregulationschangedeverytimeanewstudycameout,itwouldbeimpossibleforbigcompaniestocreateviablemultiyearbusinessplans.AndintheUnitedStatesatleast,manygovernmentregulatorscomefromtheindustriesthattheyregulateandmayhopetoreturntothoseindustriesafterthey’redone.Thismaymotivatesomeofthemtofavortheironce-and-futurecorporateemployers,meaningthattheirincentivesmaynotbealignedwiththoseofthepeopletheyarechargedtoprotect.
Evenscientists’choicesandworkarenotmotivatedexclusivelybythepursuitofpureandabstracttruthorbysolvingthemostimportantproblemsoftheday.Forone,theabilityofscientiststoresearchatallisconstrainedbytheavailabilityofmoney.Ifnoonewantstofundastudy,thestudywon’thappen.Today,moreandmoreresearchisunderwrittennotbyuniversitiesorgovernmentgrantsbutbycorporations,whosechoicesareoftenguidedbytheirdesiretomakemoney.That’ssimplyhowmarketcapitalismworks.Additionally,sometimesscientistsbuildtheirreputationsaroundparticularideasthattheycreateorsupportoverdecades.Theymaybereluctanttochangetheirstatedbeliefs,beliefsaroundwhichthey’vebuilttheircareers,evenwhenfacedwithnew,compellingevidencethatrunsagainsttheirparadigms.Wehaveseenthisrepeatedlyovertheyearswiththeriseandfalloflow-fatdiets,transfats,variousartificialsweeteners,mercuryfillings,leadedgasolineandpaint,cigarettes,andthelike.
Theprincipleofcaveatemptor,“letthebuyerbeware,”appliesverymuchwhenitcomestofood,despitethemanywell-meaningproducersandregulators.
NOTE:Caveatemptorappliesatleastasmuchormoretopersonalcareproducts,whichareregulatedlessstrictlythanfood.Weadministermostofthemdirectlytothehumanbody’slargestorgan—theskin—andtheyareabsorbedquickly.Someofthecompoundsthatcanbefoundinpersonalcareproductsincludelead,mercury,arsenic,andhydrogenatedcottonseedoil.Seewww.safecosmetics.orgformoreinformation.
WHATARETHEBENEFITS?Fermentedfoodsareusuallyeitheracidic(sour,lowpH),alcoholic(slightlytomoderately),orboth.Andpathogenic(sickness-inducing)microbesgenerallycannotsurviveinacidicoralcoholicenvironments.Thus,duringthemanytimesthroughouthistorywhengettingsafedrinkingwaterhasbeenachallenge,fermenteddrinkshavebeenlifesavers,literally.Butthebenefitsdon’tendthere.
FERMENTEDFOODSDON’TSPOILQUICKLY.
Thesamefactorsthatmakefermenteddrinkssaferthanwater—resistanceto“bad”microbes—alsohelpmakethemlesspronetospoilagethanunfermentedfoodsanddrinks.Fermentationcanbeagreatwaytoprolongtheuseablelifeoffoodswhenaccesstorefrigerationislimitedornonexistent.
THEY’REGOODFORYOU.
Evenwhenaccesstosafedrinkingwaterisnotanissue,fermentedfoodsanddrinksareimportantforpeoplewithchallengeddigestion.Manyoftheacidsinfermentedfoodshavepositivehealtheffectsbeyondtheirabilitytokeepthebadguysatbay:Theycanhelpresolvedigestivedisordersrelatedtotheregulationofstomachacid,suchasacidreflux;Theycanalsohelpsmoothoutbloodsugarfluctuations.Andsmalltomoderateamountsofalcoholcanhaveotherhealthbenefitsforsomepeople,includingreducedriskofcardiovascularproblems,reliefofstress,andsoon.Formoreonthehealthbenefitsoffermenteddrinks,seehere.
HOME-FERMENTEDDRINKSCANBELOWERINALCOHOL.
Large-scalemodernalcoholproductionusesyeasts(microbes)thathavebeenselectivelybredfortheirabilitytotolerateandproducehighlevelsofalcohol.Onthehorizonaregenetically-modified(GMO)yeasts,whichwouldallowquickerandeasiercustomizationofyeastswithparticularcharacteristics,includingstillhigheralcoholtolerance,foruseinindustrialfoodandbeverageproduction.Bycontrast,small-scaleandnonindustrialalcoholicfermentationoftenuses
wildyeastsoryeaststhatarenotfarfromwild.Theseyeastshavealowertoleranceforalcoholthanengineeredyeasts,sothedrinkstheyproducegenerallycontainlessalcohol,makingthemmoresuitableformorefrequentconsumption,inlargerquantities,andbymoresensitivegroupsofpeople(children,theelderly,theinfirm,andpregnantwomen).Dailyconsumptionof
low-alcoholbeverageshasbeenthenorminmanyplacesandatmanytimesthroughouthistory,especiallywhenandwhereitwashardtogetsafedrinkingwater.Thishasbeentrueeveninreligiouscommunitiesthattodayaregenerallyopposedtotheuseofalcoholbytheirmembers.Mormons,forinstance,hadmorerelaxedrulesaroundalcoholuntiltheearly1900s,whentheproductionandsaleofalcoholwereprohibitedentirelyintheUnitedStates.AndtheideathatIslamforbidstheconsumptionofalcoholisanoversimplification;itdependswhomyouask.Whatismoreclearisthatitforbidsdrunkenness.Considerthatkefir,afermentedmilkdrink,issaidtohavebeenagiftfromMohammedtohispeople:Kefircontainssometimesnoticeableamountsofalcohol.Andforwhatit’sworth,thewordalcoholcomesfromArabic.Havingsaidallofthat,alcoholconsumptionisamorecomplicatedtopictodayincar-centricsocietiesbecausemanyofusareexpectedtobeabletoregularlypilottwo-tonrollingfortressesflawlesslyat100+feetpersecond!
THEYSUPPORTTHEMICROBESINYOURGUT.
Themicrobesthatareinstrumentalinthetransformationoflivefermentedfoodscanalsohelpreestablishahealthy,balancedmicrobialecosysteminyourgut.Gutmicrobesplayrolesinmanyimportantbodyprocesses,includingdigestion,theendocrinesystem,theimmunesystem,andtheregulationofbloodcholesterollevels.Ingestingmicrobe-richfoodushersthesepotentialsettlerstowardthegut.Preindustrialhumansgenerallydidnothaveashortageofmicrobesintheir
diet,althoughtheydidsometimesgetsickfromthewrongones.Bycontrast,industrialhumanseatalotofprocessed,canned,andcookedfoods—oneaspectofwhathasbeencalledtheStandardAmericanDiet(SAD)—andnotverymany
raworfermentedfoods.Supplementingthesedietswithsomefermentedfoodscanprovideuswiththemissing“nutrient”ofmicrobes.Itisworthmentioningthatmostcellswithintheboundariesofthehuman
bodyarenothumancellsatall,butaremicrobesofonesortoranother.Agreatdealofthismicrobialdiversityexistswithinourdigestivetracts.Andifwelookatthediversityofgeneticmaterial,wefindthatmicrobesdominatethehumanorganism:Oneestimateisthat99%ofthedistinctDNAcontainedinsideatypicalhumanisfrommicrobes!Sobythenumbers,atleast,humansarenotindividualbeingsatall,butratherheterogeneouscommunitiesofcellsofvariousspecies—ortobelesstechnical,greatskin-bagsofinvisiblecreatures,withalotofcomingandgoing.Thesespeciesarecrucialtotheproperfunctioningofourbodies—alsoknownasourhealth.Weareecosystems,andwhatweperceiveasourhealthishardorimpossible
toseparatefromtheharmoniousoperationoftheentiresystemandallitsproperinhabitants,includingthemicrobes.
WHYBEVERAGES?Fermentedfoodstakemanyforms,includingsolid,liquid,andinbetween.Sowhatisthespecialappealoffermenteddrinks?
THEY’REEASYTOINCORPORATE.
First,wemayfallintohabitsmoreeasilyaroundbeveragesthanaroundsolidfoods.Manyofushavemorningroutinesthatincludebeverages.Wealsohavepreferredbeveragesthatweconsumewithmealsorthroughouttheday.Itmaybeeasiertosubstituteoraddfermentedbeveragesintotheseroutinesthanitwouldbetosubstituteoraddsolidfoods.Drinkscanbelesschallengingthansolidfoods.Somefermentedfoodsareso
pungenttheyarebestusedascondiments,inrelativelysmallquantities.Otherscanbechallengingbecauseoftheirunfamiliartextures.Inafewcountries,peopleroutinelyeatfermentedcabbageeverydaywitheverymeal;butitmightbehardtoconvincetherestofustoeatthatmuchkimchi!Ashotofkombuchamightbeaneasiersellingeneral.
THEYCOMPLEMENTMEALS.
Second,itisimportanttodrinktherightbeverageswithourmeals.Wearefrequentlytoldthatwemustdrinklotsofwater;thus,manyofthemosthealth-consciousamongusdrinklotsofwater,allthetime.Butwatermaynotthebestthingtodrinkwithmeals—especiallyicewater.There’sevidencethattoomuch
watercan(literally)waterdownouracidicdigestivejuices,inhibitingdigestion.Andcoldtemperaturesgenerallyslowdownchemicalreactions.Digestionisallaboutchemicalreactions,sowearedoingourselvesnofavorsicingdownourdigestivetractswhilewe’reeating.Evenbeyondallofthat,drinkingtoomuchwateratanytimeofthedaycanupsetthemineralbalanceinourbodies;inextremecases,itcanleadtodeath.Sonaturallyfermentedbeveragesareanidealdrinkoption:Theyaregenerallysomewhatacidic,andifthey’remadewiththerightingredients,aswewilldiscuss,theycontainmineralsthatourbodiesneedaswell.
THEY’REAPPEALING.
Third,somefermentedbeveragescanbecraftedtoresemblecommercialsodas,makingthemfamiliarandappealingtoahugepotentialaudience.Bothfermenteddrinksandsodascanbefizzy,sour,andstronglyflavored.Theironyofmakingfermenteddrinksimitatesodasisthis:Thefermenteddrinksexistedfirst,andthecommercialoneswereoriginallydesignedascheap,easy-to-manufactureimitationsofthefermentedones!Somesodanames,includingrootbeerandgingerale,betraythisfact.Soda’sforcedcarbonationandpotentiallytoxicphosphoricacidmimicthenaturalcarbonationandhealthylacticacidfoundinmanyfermentedbeverages.Andsodasgenerallyincorporatelargeamountsofindustriallyproducedsugars,whichmakesthemmoreaddictive.
THEY’RECONVENIENT.
Fourth,beveragesaremoreconvenientthansolidfoods.Beveragesareeasytotransportandtoconsumewhiletraveling,evendriving.Theydon’trequireimplements,plates,ornapkins;areeasiertocleanupafter;andareeasytoportionandtoshare.Andtheyareeasierfortheweak,theyoung,andtheelderlytoingest.
THEY’REQUICK.
Fifth,fermenteddrinkscanbequicktomakeand/orprocure.Somecanbepreparedinmereminutes.Sometimes,allthat’sinvolvedischoppingupsomevegetables,addingwaterandseasalt,andwaiting.Someexcellentfermentedbeveragesandfermentedbeverage“precursors”arewidelyavailableatUnitedStatessupermarkets:plainyogurt,forexample;rawapplecidervinegar;sauerkrautandkimchi;and,increasingly,fermentedbeveragesthemselves:kombucha,kvass,kefir,switchel,andothers.
THEY’REGOODINCOCKTAILS.
Andfinally,sixth,fermentedbeveragesmakegreatmixeddrinks.Cocktailshaveundergonearenaissanceinrecentyears.Somepeoplewanttogobeyondtheeasy,obvious,andclassicrecipes.Bartendersandamateurmixologiststodaywanttomakeanameforthemselvesandarelookingforsomethingnewanddifferent.Seechapter13forsomeideasforcocktailsinvolvingfermentedingredients—it’snotacomprehensiveguide,butmoreofastartingpointandinspirationforthosewhowanttoexperiment.Andwithregardstococktails,here’ssomethingtoponder:Laterinthebook,weincluderecipesforfermentedcoconutwater(shownhere)andfermented,spicedpineapplewine,knownastepache(shownhere).IsitpossiblethattheancestorofthePiñaColadawasactuallyasour,refreshing,low-sugar,lightly-alcoholicdrink,adrinkthatyoucouldenjoyallday,ratherthanthethick,sweet,andstrongonethatsomeofusareaccustomedto?Fornewcomers,fermenteddrinksareanidealintroductiontotheworldof
fermentation.Forexperiencedenthusiasts,newanddifferentbeveragescanenliventhefermentationlandscapeandprovidenewoptions.Andforeveryone,fermentedbeveragescanbefun,delicious,andnutritious.
FERMENTEDCONNECTIONS
Anotherreasontofermentisforculturalcontinuity.Passingonourgrandmother’srecipesandancestraltraditionstoourchildrenpreservestheselinkstothepast.Understandingthepastisimportantifwewanttohaveachanceatunderstandingtheworldaroundus,achanceatunderstandingourselves,andthebestpossiblechanceathelpingtocreateafutureforcominggenerations.Deprivedofculturesandtraditions,welosesomeofourhumanity.
Yetanotherreasoncouldbestbedescribedasspiritualorenergetic.Today,mostofusinteractalldaywithdigitaltechnology,computers,andremotecommunications.Theelectronicrevolutionhasradicallyandperhapsforeverchangedthewaythatweorganize,interact,connect,andresearch.IthasalsocontinuedtheshiftthathasbeentakingplaceinWesterncultureforcenturies:ashifttowardtherealmoftheabstract,towardtrustingourheads,andawayfromtrustingourbodies,hearts,andintuitions.
Individualsandfamiliesproducelessoftheirownfoodnowthanatanyothertimeinhistory.Reversingthistrendbygrowingfood,preparingfood,andespeciallyfermentingfoodanddrinkisawayforustoengageinaphysicalratherthanabstractwaywitharealmoflifefromwhichwehavebecomeestrangedandbysodoing,reestablishandstrengthenourrelationshipswithourownbodiesandwithourphysicalaspect.Wedevelopgutfeelings,literally,forhowplantsandfoodsbehave.Wediscriminatesubtletiesoftasteandsmell.Webecomemoreattunedtosmallorlargevariationsinhowwefeelafterincorporatingcertainfoodsintoourselves,especiallyifwehavesoughtthosefoodswithaneyetowardimprovingourhealth.
Whenweexperiencesomethingphysically,thephysicalexperienceisprimaryforus,regardlessofwhetherwethinkweunderstandtheexperienceintellectuallyorscientifically.Physicalexperiencecanhelpkeepusgroundedinthephysicalworldatatimewhenthingsaroundusaregettingmoreandmoreabstractandvirtual.Keepingonefootinthephysicalworldisachoicewecanmake,anditwillbenefitussinceweare,atleastinpart,physicalbeings.
WHYFERMENTDRINKSYOURSELF?Dependingonwhereyoulive,youmayalreadybeabletobuyawidevarietyoffermentedbeverages,includingdrinkableyogurts,commercialkefir(which,dependingonyourlocalregulations,maybequitedifferentfromhomemadekefir),kombucha,kvass,fermentedcoconutwater,switchel,andshrub—nottomentionrawapplecidervinegar,whichisn’tdrinkableas-is,butcaneasilybemadeso.Whywouldyouwanttomakethemyourself?
MICROBIALDIVERSITYISONEREASON.Ofnecessity,store-boughtfermentsaremadeundercarefullycontrolledconditions,ofteninoculatedwithafewspecific,knownmicrobialstrains.Youcanseethisonthesideofacartonofyogurt,forexample.Thebeststore-boughtyogurtcontainsonlytwotypesofingredients:
wholemilkandbacterialcultures.Often,thespecificculturesarelisted,andrarelyaretheremorethanthreeorfour.Usingspecificmicrobesmeansthatthesefoodscanbeproducedinlargebatcheswithpredictableresults.Homefermentsoftencontainmuchlargerandmoremysteriousmenageriesofmicrobesthanstore-boughtferments.Thebroaderslateofmicrobescancreateagreatervarietyoftracenutrientsandmaybeabettermatchforourbodies.Afterall,we’renotsureexactlywhichmicrobesornutrientsweneedinourdigestivesystems,sotheshotgunapproachmaybemoreappropriatethanalaserapproach.
COSTISANOTHERREASONTOMAKEYOUROWNFERMENTEDBEVERAGES.Store-boughtfermentedproductsarealmostalwaysmoreexpensivethanacquiringrawmaterialsandfermentingathome.Thismakessensebecauseoftheworkinvolvedinmakingfermentsandofthecostsoftransportingandstoringthem.Thespecificeconomicsofhomefermentationdependonaccesstotheingredients.Forsomepeople,thepriceofaquartofgoodmilkatthestoremaybenottoomuchlowerthanthepriceofaquartofgoodyogurt;ifthisisthecase,itwouldbealmostascheaptobuytheyogurtthantomakeit.Forothers,aspecialcircumstance(suchashavingaccesstoanappletree)maymakeaningredient(applejuice)effectivelyfreeoravailableingreatabundanceduringcertainseasons;thismayleadthemtofocusonaparticularferment(fermentedapplejuice,alsoknownascider).Andsomefermentedbeverages,suchaskombucha,canbemadewithingredientsthatarenearlyuniversallyavailable(teaandsugar),andmakingcanbecheaperthatbuyingbyafactoroften!
HUMANSANDMICROBESInTheBotanyofDesire,MichaelPollanruminatesonthenatureofdomesticationbylookingatourrelationshipswithfourdifferentplants:theapple,thetulip,cannabis,andthepotato.Didwedomesticatetulips,forinstance,byselectingthem,plantingthem,wateringthem,andmovingthemaround?Ordidtheydomesticateus,byseducingussothatwewouldcultivateandmultiplythem?Hisconclusion:Thesestoriesarereallytwosidesofthesamecoin.Humansandtulipsbothbenefitfromtherelationship.Hisothercasestudiesrevealsimilarrelationships.Thesamegoesformanyotherkindsofbeings,amongthemcows,chickens,
dogs,anddomesticcats.Noneofthesewouldexistintheirpresentformwithoutus,norwouldourlivesbethesamewithoutthem.Therearestrainsofbacteria,yeast,andmoldthatcanbeaddedtothislist.
Whenwefermentfood,wecultivate
thesemicrobes,thinkingaboutwhatconditionstheyneedforsurvivalandhowtoguidethemtowardourcommongoal.Evenwhenwearenotfermentingfood,weareinarelationshipwithmicrobes,evenifwe’renotawareofit.Weparticipateinanongoingexchangeofmicrobeswithourenvironmentandwiththeotherhumans(andanimalsandplants)around,viaalloursurfaces,externalandinternal,andviatheair,theearth,andthewater.Themicrobesinintentionallyfermentedfoodshaveevolvedwithhumans,andthereisalotofoverlapbetweenthesemicrobesandtheonesinourguts.Sincethemid-1800s,industrial
societyhasbeenengagedina“waronbacteria.”Theinitialsortieswerevictoriesforus:Pasteurizationgaveusgreatercontroloverfood;andantibioticsenabledustocureconditionsthathadbeenfatalbefore.Ascratchorasmallanimalbitethatmighthaveledtoalostlimbortodeathbeforebecameonlyaminorevent.Wemayhavetakenthingstoofarinthiswar.Wearenowkillingmicrobes
indiscriminately,withbactericidesinsoaps,socks,sippycups,andtoothpastes,andwearefeedingantibioticscarelesslytohumansandtolivestock.Thisisleadingtoanarmsrace,humansvs.microbes—aswedeploynewantibiotics,microbesevolveimmunitytothem.Andthewaythingsaregoingrightnow,themicrobeswillgetthelastlaugh.Excessivehygieneweakensourimmunesystems,whichwearediscoveringaretightlyintertwinedwithourgutbacteria.Excessivehygienealsoacceleratestheselectiveevolutionofdangerousstrainsofbacteria,especiallyinhospitals,where,ironically,themostvulnerableandimmunocompromisedamongusseekrefuge.Wecan’teverkillallthemicrobes,andweareinadvertentlystrengtheningsomeofthemostdangerousones.Whatwastheoriginalgoalofthewaronbacteria?Improvedpublichealth.
Somewherealongtheway,welostsightofthatgoalandbecamefixatedonthefight.Partoftheproblemisthatourrelationshipwithmicrobesissubtleandnot
wellunderstood.Westernmedicalscienceseeksthesimplestandmostgeneralexplanationsforphenomena;thebroadesttheoriesareoftenviewedasthemostdesirable.Thepreferenceforsimplicityismagnifiedbyourpopularpress,withitsneedfor15-secondsoundbitestomatchour15-secondattentionspans.Often,thismeansreducingcomplexphenomenatounrealisticallysimplisticdichotomiesandimperfectanalogies.Ifantibioticsaregood,thenmoreantibioticsmustbebetter.Ifkillingsomemicrobesisgood,thenkillingmoreofthem,orallofthem,mustbebetter.Unfortunately,it’snotthatsimple.Capitalismcontributestothistrend,too,withtheincentivesthatitcreates.
Whenthereismarketdemandforaproduct,antibioticsforexample,andwhencompaniesstartsellingthatproduct,thosecompaniesbecomemotivatedtocreateandsellmoreandmoreofit.Fromabusinesspointofview,thisislogical,especiallywhenapharmaceuticalcompoundhasbeenexpensivetodevelop.Themorepillsthataresold,theeasieritistorecouptheinitialoutlayofmoney.Companiesmaynothavemuchchoice;theirinvestorsdemandmaximizedprofits.Ifcompanyexecutivesdonotdeliver,theirboardswillhirenewexecutives,andthingswillgoonasplanned.Theproblemisthatmaximizingprofitsmayhappenwithoutregardforthegoodoftheircustomersorthepublic.Itisoftendifficulteventodeterminewhatthepublicgoodis.Intheory,governmentandregulatoryagenciesexisttocreatebalanceinthese
situations.Butinpractice,approvalfornewproductscanbequick,fullunderstandingoflong-termeffectsslow,lobbyingdollarspowerful,andmultinationalpoliticsandeconomicscomplexandcorrupt.Tryingtoaddressthesesortsofproblemsonalargescalemayseemdaunting.
Eachofuscanstarttoaddressthemonasmallscale,forourselves,bytakinggreaterchargeofourownfoodandhealthandrethinkingourrelationshipwithmicrobes.Microbeshavemadeuswhatweareandviceversa.Weriseandfallwiththem.
CHAPTERTWO
OURCULTUREDHISTORYFermentationhasbeenpartofthehumanexperience
fromthestart.Wecanonlyguessatsomeofthe
earliestevents,butit’sclearthatfermentsaren’ta
recentfadorinnovation.Humanshavehad
relationshipswithfermentationforalongtime.
THEDRUNKENMONKEYWemayhavedevelopedourtasteforfermenteddrinksevenbeforewewerehuman.AccordingtotheDrunkenMonkey
hypothesis,proposedin2000byDr.RobertDudleyinTheQuarterlyReviewofBiology,ourancestorswereeatingfermentingfruitbeforehumanswereonthescene.Otheranimalsthatweren’tancestorsofhumansweredoingthesame.Thealcoholandvinegarodorgeneratedbypungentoverripefruitmadethefruiteasiertofindbecauseanimalscould“followtheirnose”toitssource.Consumingalcoholinsmallamountscanincreaseshort-termfocus,heightenthesenses,andincreaseappetite,soanimalswhofoundsomerottingfruitwouldhavebeeninabetterpositiontofindmore,thusreinforcingtherotting-fruit-seeking-and-eatingbehavior.(Studieshavedemonstratedthatconsumingalcoholbeforeamealcanincreaseappetiteinmodernhumans,aphenomenonthathasbeendubbed“theapértifeffect.”)Fruit,fermentingornot,wasausefulfoodsource,accessibleonlytoanimals
whocouldfinditandeatit.Theseanimalsgotfoodandcaloriesthatotheranimalsdidnotget,andhencegainedsomeselectivereproductiveadvantage.Sothisbehaviorwasevolutionarilyadaptive,anditspreadthroughpopulations.Tenmillionorsoyearsago,ageneticmutationdrasticallyincreasedour
ancestors’abilitytotoleratealcoholandmayhaveincreasedtheirattractiontoit.Thisfurtherincreasedtheiradvantagesoverotherspecies,andithelped
acceleratesomeofthechangesthatdifferentiatehumansfromotherprimates,leavinguswithatasteforalcohol.TheDrunkenMonkeyHypothesisseemstohavegainedmomentumsinceit
waspublishedin2000,havingbeenthethemeofasymposiumandthesubjectofabookbyDr.DudleyentitledTheDrunkenMonkey:WhyWeDrinkandAbuseAlcohol.Otherresearchersandevencasualobservershaveconfirmedthatwearenot
theonlyprimateswhoenjoyfermenteddrinks.Infact,manyinattentivevacationershavehadtheirdrinksstolenbyaggressivemonkeys.It’shardtoassesstheaccuracyofatheorysuchasthis—ourabilitytoconfirm
orrefuteitislimitedbyouraccesstoeventsfromaverylongtimeago.Nonetheless,itisanintriguingpossibility.
THESTONEDAPELet’salsoconsiderTerenceMcKenna’sStonedApetheory,asproposedinhis1992book,FoodoftheGods:TheSearchfortheOriginalTreeofKnowledge,ARadicalHistoryofPlants,Drugs,andHumanEvolution.HistheorysharessomepointswithDudley’s,buthelooksmoredeeplyintoourancestors’relationshipswithplants,andheincludesmorerecenthistory.Heobservesthathominidevolutionmovesalongatapacemarkedbymillennia,whilebycomparison,humanculture“presentsaspectacleofwildandcontinuousnovelty.”Hemakesacasethatourearlyinteractionswithplantsprofoundlyaffectednotonlyourphysicalevolution,butalsoourculturalandlinguisticevolution.Inhiswords:
Theearlyhominids’adoptionofanomnivorousdietandtheirdiscoveryofthepowerofcertainplantsweredecisivefactorsinmovingearlyhumansoutofthestreamofanimalevolutionandintothefast-risingtideoflanguageandculture.Ourremoteancestorsdiscoveredthatcertainplants,whenself-administered,suppressappetite,diminishpain,supplyburstsofsuddenenergy,conferimmunityagainstpathogens,andsynergizecognitiveactivities.Thesediscoveriessetusonthelongjourneytoself-reflection.Oncewebecametool-usingomnivores,evolutionitselfchangedfromaprocessofslowmodificationofourphysicalformtoarapiddefinitionofculturalformsbytheelaborationofrituals,languages,writing,mnemonicskills,andtechnology.
Theseimmensechangesoccurredlargelyasaresultofthesynergiesbetweenhumanbeingsandthevariousplantswithwhichtheyinteracted
andcoevolved.Anhonestappraisaloftheimpactofplantsonthefoundationsofhumaninstitutionswouldfindthemtobeabsolutelyprimary.
Thishighlightstheimportanceofplants,fermentedplantsamongthem,tohumankind.TwentiethcenturyUnitedStatesculturewaswaryofpowerfulplants—itsaw
theprohibitionofprettymucheverypopularpotentplant-derivedpreparation,includingalcohol.TowardtheendofthecenturyintheUnitedStates,therewassignificantgrowthofinterestingoodwinesandbeers.Theearlytwenty-firstcenturyseesusdecriminalizingcannabisandresumingclinicalresearchintotherapeuticusesofpsilocybinmushrooms.HomefermentationhasgrowngreatlyinpopularityinNorthAmerica.Couldthisbepartofatrendtowardalessadversarialstancetowardnature?Thatisourhope.
FERMENTATIONANDCIVILIZATIONFormostofhumanexistence,humanswerehunter-gatherersorperhapsevenscavengers.Earlyhumanswouldstayaroundonegeographicareaaslongasitprovidedthemthingstohunt,gather,andscavenge;ifthatlocation’sresourcesbecamedepleted,theywouldmoveon.Inmanyplaces,nomadicherderscamenext.Theyhunted,theygathered,and
theyalsoherdedanimals.Iffoodandgrazingwereavailable,theycouldstayput,butiffoodbecameunavailable,theytoowouldneedtodecamp.Twelvethousandorsoyearsago,somegroupsstartedsettlingforlongperiods
oftimeinoneplace,domesticatingandcultivatingcrops.Becausewewereweren’tmovingsomuchandwegrewmorefoodthanwecouldeatimmediately,wewereable,forthefirsttime,tostorefoodforthefuture.ThisriseofsedentaryagriculturemarkedthebeginningoftheAgriculturalRevolutionandthebeginningofwhatsomecall“civilization.”Itledtosettlementswithhigherpopulationdensityandmorepermanentlivingstructures.Itledtothefirststoredwealth,intheformofstoredfood,mostlygraincrops.Anditledtothefirstdramaticinequalityofwealthandstratificationofsocietybecauseonlyafewelitepeopleheldthekeystothegranaries.Italsoseemstohaveledtoalongerworkdayandadeclineinthegeneralstateofhealthforthenon-elites.Partofthedeclineinhealthwasduetopoornutritionbecauselargepartsofthepopulationtookupagrain-heavydietthatdidnotprovidethenutrientsandvarietythatthehunter-gathererdiethad;inatleastsomecases,thesenewly
civilizedfolkweremeasurablyshorterthantheirhunter-gathererforebears,andtheirskullsshowedmoresignsofunder-development,malnourishment,anddentaldisease.Anotherpartofthehealthdeclinewasduetotheriseofinfectiousdisease,madepossiblebytheincreasedpopulationdensityofthenewsettlements,whichacceleratedthepropagationofnewkindsofinfectiousagents.Thuscharacterized,civilizationdoesnotsoundcompelling.Perhapssedentary
agriculturewas,asJaredDiamondplainlyputitinthetitleofa1987article,“TheWorstMistakeintheHistoryoftheHumanRace.”Althoughitmayhavebeenagoodthingforthewealthy,agriculturewasnotanimmediateadvantageforeveryoneelse.Theadvancementofcivilizationcreatedmorework,morecrowded
conditions,andmoresickness.(Somepeoplehavethesamecomplaintsaboutlifetoday.)Sowhydidweevenbother?Whydidthecivilizedwayoflifewinoutoverhuntingandgathering?Andthere’snodoubtthatithas:Bytheendofthetwentiethcentury,civilization’svictoryoverthehunter-gathererswasnearlycomplete.Itwouldbenaivetoascribetheriseofcivilizationtoanysinglefactor.And
it’sworthconsideringthatthemostsuccessfulsocietiespoliticallyandmilitarilyarenotalwaysthemostpleasantonesinwhichtolive.Qualityoflifedoesnotalwaysdrivehistory.Havingsaidthat,onereasontheseearlyagriculturalistsmighthavesettled
downtogrowngrainwassothattheycouldmakebread.Earlysedentaryagriculturalistsdidmakebread.Buttheyalsomadebeer.Andinthe1950sintheUnitedStates,startingwith
J.D.Sauer,theBeerBeforeBreadtheoryemerged,makingthecasethatbeer,notbread,wastheprimaryreasonforgrowinggrain.(“PintsoverPastry,”quipsa2013articleinNautilusmagazine.)Infact,beerhasnutritionaladvantagesoverbreadandiseasiertomakeinsomeways,sothisideaisnotfar-fetched.Anddrinkingbeersoundslikemorefunthaneatingbread.Perhapshumanssettledincitiessothattheycouldhavebeer!ThousandsofyearsbeforetheBeerBeforeBreadtheory,theClassicalGreek
historianandgeneralThucydidesreportedlywrote:“ThepeoplesoftheMediterraneanbegantoemergefrombarbarismwhentheylearnedtocultivatetheoliveandthevine.”TheAncientGreekswerebigwinedrinkers,notsomuchbeer.Butthismillennia-oldassertionisanalogousinsomewaystothemodernBeerBeforeBreadtheory.Coulditbethatfermentedbeveragesdomesticatedhumans?
FERMENTATIONANDHEALTHAssettlementsgrewintocities,earlyurbanitesgainedsomebenefitfromfermentedbeverages.Forinstance,AncientGreeksandRomanswereknowntodrinktheirwinemixedwithwater.Whywouldyoumixwinewithwater?Thismayhavebeendrivenbypracticalratherthanculinaryconsiderations.First,winemayhavebeenscarceorexpensive.Second,itmighthavebeentoostrongforall-daydrinking.Butthird,andpossiblymostinterestingly,thewinemayhavebeenaddedtothewaterratherthanviceversa.Winewouldhavebeenaddedtowatertotreatthewater,makingitsaferto
drink.AncientGreeksandRomanswerealsoknowntodrinkwaterwithvinegarinit,verylikelyforthesamereason—toneutralizesomewater-bornepathogens.Infact,thelinebetweenwineandvinegarmighthavebeenmorefluidbackthen.Wildyeastandlesshygienicconditionsmayhaveledtowinethatwasmoresourtostartwith.Theymaynotalwayshavebeenmeticulousaboutkeepingtheirwineinairtightcontainersallthetime,leadingtoaquickertransitiontovinegar.Butwine,beingvaluable,wouldnothavebeenthrownawayevenwhenitbecamesour.ThisrelationshipwithwineonitswaytovinegarmightofferanewperspectiveonthepassagesintheNewTestament(MatthewandMark)inwhichJesusofNazareth,whiledying,isofferedaspongesoakedinvinegar(presumablydilutedwithwater).Thissoundslikeanoddthingtooffersomeonewhoisdying,butatthetime,itmayhavemadeperfectsense.Therewasevenanameforthisdrinkofwatered-downvinegar:posca.Beyondtheiruseforsanitizingwater,fermenteddrinkswereusedascarriers
formedicinalplantsandherbs.Manyplantcomponentsaremoresolubleinalcoholthaninwater,andalcoholsolutionskeepbetter,somanyancientmedicinesweredeliveredinanalcoholbase.Wecanseethevestigesofthistodayinourherbalwinesandliqueurswhoseoriginsweremedicinal.Vermouth,literally“wormwood,”wasawineinfusedwiththewormwoodplant,whichkilledparasitesintheintestines.Whenitbecameavailable,adistilled(strong)alcoholbaseforherbalpotions
becamepopularbecausestrongeralcoholisamoreeffectivesolvent.Thepiquantherbalbouquetofginrevealsitssignatureherbalingredient,juniper,whichhaspurportedrespiratory,hormonal,anddigestivebenefits.Chartreuseisanherballiqueurparexcellencethatwasoriginallyintendedasanelixirforlonglifeandapanacea.Itisreportedtocontain130differentherbs,plants,andflowers.Theexactingredientlistisacloselyguardedsecret,knowntoonlytwolivingmonksatanytime.
Inthe1980s,whileanalyzing1,500-year-oldNubianbonesfromwhatisnowSudan,scientistGeorgeArmelagosmadeastartlingdiscovery.Thesebonesshowedevidenceofexposuretolargedosesofmodernantibiotics.Eventually,ArmelagosandchemistMarkNelsonco-authoredapaperinwhichtheyconcludedthatthisNubianpopulationhadbeenintentionallybrewingbeermadewithaStreptomycesmicrobethatproducedtetracycline.Tetracyclineisamodernantibiotic—itissoimportanttodaythatitisontheWorldHealthOrganization’sModelListofEssentialMedicines.Armelagosdescribeshowsurprisingthisdiscoverywas:“IfyouwereunwrappinganEgyptianmummyandsuddenlyithadRay-Bansunglassesonit,that’swhatitwaslikewithus.”Andthesebrewersfrom500CEseemtohavebeenmakingitintentionally.Whenantibioticswererediscoveredinthefirsthalfofthetwentiethcentury,
theywerealsoby-productsoffermentation,inthiscaseproducedbythePenicilliumnotatummold.Soinmoderntimesasinthepast,microbesandfermentationplayanimportantroleinmedicineandpublichealth.
FERMENTATIONANDRELIGIONFermenteddrinksaresoimportanttoreligionthatevenduringprohibitionintheUnitedStates,Americanscouldlegallydrinkwineinceremonialcontexts.Infact,fermenteddrinkshaveplayedcentralrolesinreligionandritualfromAncientGreecetomoderntimes.Hereareafewexamples.Thelibationisaritualinwhichsomeamountofadrink,usuallyalcoholic,is
pouredontheground.Dependingonwhereandwhenittakesplace,thelibationmightbeanofferingtoadeity,aspirit,ortheearthherself.InAncientGreeceandRome,thegodsofwine(DionysusorBacchus,respectively)andothergodswouldreceivethisobservanceonceadayandmorefrequentlyonimportant
occasions.Throughouthistory,ithasparallelsinculturesinAfrica,AsiaandSouthAsia,andtheAmericas.Today,libationsindifferentculturesareofferedvariouslyfortheSaints,fortheDevil,andfor“myhomies”(i.e.,friends,inthiscase,generallydeceased).WineplaysanimportantroleinthespiritualtraditionofJudaismaswell.
ThereisaritualprayeroverwineatthebeginningoftheSabbatheveryweek,anditisusedtousherinmostholidays.AproperPassoversederinvolvesdrinkingfourglassesofwineinonenight—beforethemealevenstarts!TheEucharist,ortheHolyCommunion,isanimportantriteinmanyChristian
churches.Inthisrite,areenactmentoftheLastSupper,breadandwinearesanctified,meaningtheybecomethebodyandthebloodofChristorbecomeassociatedwithit.Thebreadmaybeunleavened(unfermented),aswouldhavebeenthecaseattheLastSupper.Orbycontrast,inEasternchurches,fermentedleavenedbreadisusedforcommunion,withtheyeastinthebreadsymbolizingtheHolySpirit!BeforetheSpanishconquestinwhatisnowMexico’scentralhighlands,the
magueyplantplayedacrucialroleinthelifeoftheAztecs.AstheGreeksandRomanshadforwine,theAztecshadadeityformaguey—thegoddessMayahuel.Pulque,thefermentedsapofthemaguey,wasnormallyreservedfortheroyalfamily,forpriests,forretirees,andforthosebeingputtodeath.Everyoneelsecouldhaveitonlyoccasionallyduringreligiousceremonies.Amoremoderncommentatoronreligion,BenjaminFranklin,wroteinaletter
tol’abbéAndréMorellet,probablyin1779:“Voilàl’eauquitombedescieuxsurnosvignobles;là,elleentrelesracinesdesvignespourêtrechangéeenvin;preuveconstantequeDieunousaime,etqu’ilaimeànousvoirheureux.”Thatis,“Seetheretherainthatfallsfromtheskiesuponourvineyards;there,itenterstherootsofthevinestobechangedintowine;constantevidencethatGodlovesus,andthatGodlovestoseeushappy.”
CHAPTERTHREE
FERMENTATION,SCIENCE,ANDHEALTHYoucanmakefermenteddrinkswithoutanadvanced
degreeinbiochemistryormicrobiology.Afterall,
humansfermentednicelyforthousandsortensof
thousandsofyearsbeforeanyonehadheardof
microbes.
Nonetheless,itcanbehelpfultohaveamentalmodelforwhat’sgoingonwhenyouferment.Havingamodelisparticularlyhelpfulwhenthingsdon’tgothewayyouhopedtheywould,soyouhavesomeideaofwhatsortsofchangesmightresultinabetteroutcome.Alittlebitofunderstandingcangoalongway.Thestudyofbiochemistryprovidesone
suchmodel.
TEACHINGVESSELS
Biochemistryisnottheonlymodelforhowfermentationworks.Differentcultureshavedifferentmodelsthatmaybejustashelpful,ormaybemorehelpful,evenifthesemodelsmightnotbeas“scientific”orasbroadlyapplicableorgeneralizabletootherphenomena.
Forinstance,someculturesbelievethatthevesselstheyhaveusedtofermentaresacred.Whenusinganewvesselforthefirsttime,theywillplaceitamongsomeveteranvesselssotheoldonescan“teach”thenewone.Thistacticworksequallywellwhetheryoubelievethattheagentoffermentationisaspiritoramicrobe.
CRASHCOURSEINBIOCHEMISTRY
Atomsareindividualchemicalbuildingblocksofmatter.Weknowofmorethan100differenttypesofatoms,calledelements;you’veprobablyheardofmanyofthem,includinghydrogen,oxygen,carbon,andnitrogen.Forthisdiscussion,let’sassumethatallatomsofthesameelementareinterchangeableandbehaveidentically.(Thisisnotquitetrue,butcloseenoughforourpurposes.)We’llalsoassumethatatomsofoneelementcan’tchangeintotheatomsofanother.(Thisisalsonotquitetrue.)Moleculesareclumpsofatomsjoinedinspecificthree-dimensional
arrangements.Iftwomoleculesconsistofthesameatomsstucktogetherinthesamearrangement,theyaresaidtobethesamechemicalcompound.Someexamplesofcompoundsarewater(twohydrogenatomsandoneoxygen,H2O),carbondioxide(CO2),oxygengas(O2),tablesugar(sucrose,C12H22O11),drinkingalcohol(ethanol,C2H6O),andaceticacid(theacidinvinegar,C2H4O2).Thesamecollectionofatomscan
sometimesbestucktogetherinadifferentwaytoproduceadifferentcompound.Forinstance,glucose(alsoknownasdextrose),fructose,andgalactoseallhavethesamechemicalformula,oringredientlist—C6H12O6—butwithinthemoleculesofeachofthesecompounds,theatomsarearrangeddifferently.Wecallcompoundswithidenticalformulasisomers.(Isomermeans“equalparts”inGreek.)Isomersmayexhibitdifferentchemicalandphysicalpropertiesbecauseoftheirdifferentspatialgeometries.
Whenacollectionofatomsormoleculescombinesand/orsplits,resultinginadifferentcollection,thisiscalledachemicalreaction.Anexampleofachemicalreactioniswhenethylalcohol(ethanol)andoxygengascombine,resultinginaceticacid(alsoknownasethanoicacidandthekeycomponentinvinegar)and
water.Thisisthereactionthatmakesyourwineturnsourwhenit’sexposedtoair.Itcanberepresentedasfollows:
C2H6O+O2→C2H4O2+H2Oethanol+oxygen→
ethanoic(acetic)acidpluswater
(Asthechemistsintheaudienceareaware,thischaracterizationisasignificantoversimplificationofthesituation.)
ELEMENTSOFALCHEMY
Foralongtime,mainstreamscientiststhoughtthatelementswereimmutable.Renegadesknownasalchemiststhoughtotherwiseandspenttheirtimetryingtotransmuteoneelementintoanother.Thealchemistsweremockedfortheirbelief.Butitturnsoutthattheywereright,althoughitwasnotuntilthediscoveryofnuclearreactionsthatweunderstoodhowitwaspossibletotransmuteelements.
Ifyoucountthetotalnumberofatomsofeachelementontheleftandrightsidesofthearrow,you’llseethatthey’rethesame.Thisistrueofanychemicalreaction(althoughasnotedbefore,itisnottrueofnuclear,oralchemical,reactions).Sometimes,heatisincreasedbythereaction.Thisiscalledanexothermicreaction.Ifheatisconsumed,thenitisanendothermicreaction.Metabolismisthesumtotalofallthechemicalreactionsthathappeninsidean
organismtokeepitalive,includingreactionsthatreleaseenergyfortheorganism’suse,reactionsthatcreatephysicalbuildingblocks,reactionsthatplayrolesinotherprocessesoftheorganism’sbody,andmore.Metabolismisinterestingtousforafewreasons.First,withoutmetabolismtherewouldbenolife.Butalso,themetabolicprocessesofmicrobesproduce,asby-products,theacids,alcohols,flavors,andbubblesthatconstitutefermenteddrinks.Proteinsarelargemoleculeswithcomplexshapesthatcanfittogetherlike
puzzlepieces,orlikekeysinlocks,withothermolecules.Whentheyjoinlikethis,interestingthingscanhappen.Thisgeneralmechanismunderliesmostlifeprocesses.Enzymes,forourpurposes,areproteinsthatcatalyzeparticularbiochemical
reactions—theirpresenceenablesreactionstohappenundercircumstanceswheretheywouldnothaveotherwise,orenablesthemtohappenquickerthan
theywouldhaveotherwise.Alllivingorganismsproduceenzymesinordertoaccelerateandfavorcertainchemicalmetabolicreactions.Forexample,digestiveenzymesplayanimportantroleindigestion.Carbohydratesaremoleculescontainingcarbon,hydrogen,andoxygenin
certainproportionsandarrangements.Sugars,starches,andfibersareallvarietiesofcarbohydrate.Whenlargercarbohydratesbreakdown,oftenwiththehelpofenzymes,theybecomesmallercarbohydrates,andultimately,theybecomesimplesugars.Simplesugars,ormonosaccharides,arethesmallestcarbohydrates.Thekey
monosaccharidesinfermentationareglucose,fructose,andgalactose—allisomersofC6H12O6.Glucose,alsoknownasdextrose,isthesimplesugarmosteasilymetabolized;fructoseisasimplesugarfoundinmanyfruitsthatcanbeconvertedbythebodyintoglucose;andfinally,galactoseisacomponentinmilksugarandcanalsobeconvertedintoglucose.Disaccharidesarecarbohydratesconsistingoftwosimplesugars.Themost
importantdisaccharidesaresucrose,lactose,andmaltose.Roughlyspeaking,sucroseisaglucoseplusafructose;lactoseisaglucoseplusagalactose;andmaltoseistwoglucoses.Oligosaccharidesarecarbohydratesconsistingofatleasttwobutnomore
thanten-ishsimplesugars.Polysaccharidesarecarbohydratesconsistingoftwoorthreeormoresimplesugars.Complexcarbohydratesarecarbohydratesconsistingofmanysimplesugars(there’snospecificnumber).Microbesaremicroscopiclivingorganisms.Althoughtheindividual
organismsaremicroscopic,coloniesofthemcansometimesbecomevisibletothehumaneye.Thekeymicrobesforfermentationarebacteria,yeasts,andmolds.Bacteriaaresingle-celledorganismsandsomeoftheoldestformsoflifeon
theearth,datingbackatleast3.5billionyears.Yeastsaremorecomplicatedsingle-celledorganismsthathavebeenaround
forhundredsofmillionsofyears.Moldsarebiologicallysimilartoyeastsinsomeways,butgrowin
multicellularagglomerations.Whatdoesallofthisscientifictheoryhavetodowithfermenteddrinks?Somebacteriaandyeastscancleavedisaccharidesandtoalesserextent
biggerpolysaccharidesintosimplesugars.Thentheycanconvertthesimplesugarsintoacids,alcohol,andgasses.That’swhatgetsusfermenteddrinks—sour,fizzy,andsometimesalcoholic.Asimplelacticacidreactionlookslikethis:
C6H12O6→2×C3H6O3glucose→2moleculesoflacticacid
Amorecomplicatedonelookslikethis:
C6H12O6→C3H6O3+C2H6O+CO2glucose→lacticacid+ethanol+carbondioxide
Acid,alcohol,andbubbles—nowwe’retalking!
Somebacteriaconvertethylalcoholintoaceticacid,viaareactionwesawearlier:
C2H6O+O2→C2H4O2+H2Oethanol+oxygen→
acetic(ethanoic)acidpluswater
FERMENTINGWITHMOLD
Moldsarekeytosomekindsoffermenteddrinks—ricefermentssuchasamazake,traditionalsojuandshōchū,andsake.Thesedrinkswerenotincludedinthisbookbecausetheyarehardertomake,andtheymaynotcoexisthappilyinproximitytootherferments—thatis,theyinvolvemorework,requiremoretemperaturecontrol,andaresensitivetocross-contaminationfrombacterialferments.
Sakemaybethekingofmold-fermenteddrinks.Itisnotaprojecttobeundertakenlightly—makingsakecantakethebetterpartofayear!Andthereareotherimportantfermentedfoodsinvolvingmolds.Notableexamplesincludemanysortsofcheeses(suchasbluecheesesandbloomy-rindcheeses);driedsausages;traditionally-brewedsoysauce;andmiso.
Areactionwherebyyeastsconvertglucoseorfructoseintoalcohollookslikethis:
C6H12O6→2×C2H6O+2×CO2glucoseorfructose→2moleculesofethanol
+2moleculesofcarbondioxide
Thisyeastreactioniskeytoalmostallalcoholicdrinks,aswellas(leavened)bread.Again,thesearehugesimplifications,andthesearebynomeanstheonly
reactionsthattakeplace,buttheydogiveusamentalpictureofwhat’shappening.Whenwearefermentingadrink,allthesugarsandstarches(carbohydrates)in
thestartingformulagenerallydooneoffourthings:theyremaincarbohydrates;theybecomealcohols;theybecomeacids;and/orsomesmallamountmayevaporate.“Serious”brewerstakeadvantageofthisequation,estimatingalcohollevelsindirectlybymeasuringorinterpolatingthedensityandsugarleveloftheirliquidatdifferentstagesinthebrewingprocess.Howmuchsugargetsconvertedintowhatdependsonavarietyoffactors,but
thegeneraltrendisfromsugartoalcoholtoacid.Understandingandinternalizingthisconceptcanhelpusadjustourformulasandprocesses.Forinstance,ifyou’remakingTepache(apineapplewine—seehere)andyou’dlikeittohavemorealcohol,youmightneedtoaddmoresugarandletitfermentforlonger,oryoumightneedtorestrictaccesstooxygensoonertoslowdowntheconversiontoacid.Orifyou’dlikeittobelesssour,youcouldtryfermentingitforashorterperiod(althoughtepachewillalwaysbeprettysour!)and/orrestrictingaccesstooxygen.Finally,ifyourdrinkfermentingexperimentfails,youmaystillbeabletogetanicevinegaroutofit,justbygivingitfullaccesstooxygenandlettingitfermentuntilallthesugarandallthealcoholhavebecomeacid.
WHATISHEALTH?Healthisasurprisinglysubtleconcept.It’smostsimplydefinedas“thestateofbeingfreefromillnessorinjury.”This
isastart,butit’sinadequate.Ittalksaboutwhathealthisn’t,notdirectlyaboutwhathealthis.It’squiteabstractandevenpossiblycircular:Whatisillnessifnot“theabsenceofhealth?”TheWorldHealthOrganizationgoesfurther,sayingthat“[health]isastateof
completephysical,mental,andsocialwell-beingandnotmerelytheabsenceofdiseaseorinfirmity.”Thisgivesusabitmoretoholdonto.Ifhealthisnotmerelytheabsenceofdiseaseandinfirmity,maybeit’stheoppositeofdiseaseandinfirmity—easeandrobustness?Easeandrobustnessseemtobegoodindicatorsofhealth.Buteventhislastdefinitionleavessomethingtobedesired.Itsoundsabsolute
andunachievable.
Wemightdobettertothinkofhealthasaspectrumandtothinkofitasbeingassessedwithaparticularcontextinmind.Lifeformscanexistinvaryingdegreesofhealth.Furthermore,astateofbeingthatmightbeoptimalinonecontextmightnotbeoptimalinanother.Perhapswecanthinkofhealthasameasureofthedegreetowhichyourbody,mind,andspiritaresuitedtothecontextinwhichyoulive,allowingyoutogoaboutyourbusinesswitheaseandrobustness.Optimalhealthforahunter-gatherercouldbedifferentfromoptimalhealthfor
acheforanofficeworker.Youcouldarguethathumansevolvedtobehunter-gatherersandnotdesk-sitters,andsohealthshouldbemeasuredbyourhunter-gathererfitness;butthemajorityofhumans,includingmostofthosereadingthisbook,arenothunter-gatherers.So,thepointseemsmoot.Let’sfocusontheideaofimprovinghealth,oroptimizinghealth,forone
individualhuman(andnecessarilyforherorhisconcomitantecosystemofmicrobes!)inthathuman’scontext.Animprovementofhealthisachangethatmakeslifeeasierandincreasesresilience.Differentpeoplefacedifferenthealthchallenges.Someofuswouldliketo
loseweight,andsomeofusurgentlyneedtoloseweight.Excessweightisoftenaresultofametabolicissue,adigestiveone,and/orabehavioralorpsychologicalone.Excessweightcorrelateswithtype2diabetes.Othersofushavechallengesthatpresentexplicitlydigestivesymptoms—acidreflux,gasandbloating,andproblemswithelimination.(Thinkbacktothe“opioid-inducedconstipation”fromchapter1;inthiscase,thepathogenesisisclear.)Problemstypicallyseenasnutritionaldeficienciescanoftenbetracedto
problemsofincompletedigestion.Apropensitytowardfrailnessandcatchingcoldsandfluorflu-likemaladiespointstowardaweakimmunesystem,whichisbeingincreasinglyunderstoodaslinkedtogutmicrobiology.Long-termachesandpainsorallergiesmayindicateautoimmuneproblems,whichmeans(giveortake)thatyourimmunesystemis“confused”aboutsomethingthat’sgoingoninyourbody—thistoomayhaveitsrootandmayfinditsresolutioninthegut.Finally,someinscrutable,difficult-to-treatconditions,Parkinson’sandautism
forinstance,seemtocorrelatewithchangesingutphysiology.Mainstreammedicineisjuststartingtoexplorethesegutconnections.Alternativemedicinepractitionershavebeenadecadeortwo(orperhapsafewcenturies!)aheadonnoticingtheseconnections.Ifyou’reinterested,checkoutthebookGutandPsychologySyndromebyDr.NatashaCampbell-McBride.Agoodmanyoftoday’sbiggesthealthproblemsseemtobegut-related,even
iftheydonotimmediatelyseemlikedigestiveproblems.
Furthermore,differentpeople’sbodiesreactdifferentlytochangesindietandbehavior.Thisisafacetofaconceptknownasbio-individuality:weareallthesamespecies,andourgeneticsareverysimilar,butourbodiesworkdifferently,andwhathelpsonepersonmayhurtanother.Sowhendiscussingthehealthbenefitsoffermentedfoodsforyou,it’s
importanttokeepinmindwhatyourhealthgoalsare.Doyouhavespecificissuesyou’retryingtoaddress?Ordoyoufeelgoodaboutyourhealth,andyouwanttodoeverythingyoucantomaintainit?Readthissectionofthebookwithaneyetowardyourownspecificgoals,and
itmayhelpyoufocusyourenergytohelpachievethem!
HEALTHBENEFITSWe’vestartedhearingmoreandmoreaboutthehealthbenefitsoffermentedfoodsanddrinks.It’snolongerafringetopic—todayeventhemainstreammediaareaddressingit.Butthemainstreammediaareoftennotabletospendsufficienttimeonsubtle
subjectssuchasthisone,andtheyoftendonotprovideenoughcontextformeaningfuldiscussionsaboutpublichealth.Ontopofthat,themediaareoverlyeagertoquantifythings,assigningunrealisticallyprecisenumbersandpercentagessothattheycansoundmore“scientific”incaseswherethesenumbersarenotterriblymeaningful.Forinstance,evenifascientificstudycalculatesapercentagereductionintherateofsomediseasethatiscorrelatedwithsomedietorlifestylechange,thatpercentagemaybeonlyvaguelyrelevanttoanygivenindividual,andotherfactorsmaybemuchmoreimportantthanthatparticularchange.Thatsaid,whatarethehealthbenefitsoffermenteddrinks,andwhat’sthebest
waytodiscussthem?Morespecifically:Howcouldconsumingthisfermenteddrinkaffectmyhealth,comparedwithdrinkingnothingatall?Anotherrelatedquestionmightbe:Howcouldthisfermenteddrinkaffectmyhealth,comparedwithunfermentedalternatives?Somealternativesmightincluderawdrinks,pasteurizedorultra-pasteurizeddrinks,sugaryindustrialsodas,sportsdrinks,distilledalcoholdrinks,andwater.Herearesomeofthewaysinwhichfermenteddrinkscanhelpsupportour
health.Notallthebenefitsarefullyunderstood,andnoteveryfermenteddrinkprovideseverybenefit—whichisagoodreasontoconsumeaswideavarietyoffermenteddrinksasispracticalforyou,whereveryouareonyourfermenteddrinkjourney.
FERMENTEDDRINKSCONTAINLIVE,“FRIENDLY”MICROBES.
Furthermore,theydon’tcontainpathogenic,“bad”ones.Exclusionofbadmicrobesisoneofthekeyadvantagesoffermenteddrinksoverwaterandfreshdrinks.Withoutbadmicrobes,adrinkissaferandlesslikelytomakeussick.Friendlymicrobesaresimilaroridenticaltosomeofthemicrobesthatare
necessaryforahealthyhumangut.(Thisisnotacoincidence—thesemicrobeshaveevolvedalongside,andinside,us.)Mostofthemicrobesthatweingestdonotsurvivethelongjourneythroughourdigestivesystem;there’ssomedebateaboutexactlyhowmanydosurvive,butit’sverylikelythatsomeofthemdo,judgingfromthekindsofhealthchangesthatpeoplereportwhentheystartconsumingfermentedproducts.Takingprobioticsupplementpillsisanotherwaytoingestmicrobes.These
pillsaregenerallycoatedtoensurethesurvivalofmanyofthemicrobesintoourgut.Butthesesupplementsdonotnecessarilycontainthewidevarietyofmicrobesthatahomefermentcontains.Andifthey’renottransportedandstoredcarefully,probioticsupplementscandie.(Bycontrast,bubblyfermenteddrinksareprettyclearlyalive.)Whenweingestmicrobes,bywhatevermeans,someofthemjoinandinteract
withthemicrobesalreadyinourbodies,strengtheningourownbiologicalprocessessuchasdigestionandimmunefunction.Inaddition,giventheirshortlifecycle,it’spossiblethatthemicrobesinourgutliterallyevolveinresponsetotheirenvironment;soevenifwedon’tingestthemicrobesweneed,theymightbecomethemicrobeswe’relookingforsomewheredowntheroad.Ahealthygutfloracanhelpusmaintainorevenrestoretheliningofourgut.
Thisimprovesourbody’sresistancetobadmicrobesthatmightleadtosymptomsoffoodpoisoning;itdecreasesthedegreetowhichinorganictoxins(heavymetalsforinstance)areabsorbedintoourbody;itdecreasesthetendencyforpartially-digestedproteinstopassintoourblood,provokingundesirableimmuneresponses;anditmayhelpusinotherwaysthatwedonotyetunderstand.
UNFILTEREDFERMENTEDDRINKSOFTENCONTAINYEAST.
Yeast,aliveordead,isasourceofvariousBvitaminsandcanbeasourceofsmallamountsofproteinandofsomeimportanttracemineralssuchasseleniumandchromium.Fermenteddrinkscanalsocontainotherimportantnutrients,includingAandCvitamins,Kvitamins,enzymes,andantioxidantsofvarioussortsthatweareonlystartingtounderstand(polyphenols,flavonoids,resveratrol,etc.).
MANYVITAMINSANDALLENZYMESAREDESTROYEDBYEXPOSURETOHEAT.
Thisdenaturinghappensprogressivelybetweenapproximately118°Fand180°F(48°Cand82°C).Fermentingwithoutheatleavesvitaminsandenzymesintact.Thisdifferentiatesfermenteddrinksfrom,say,unfermentedstore-boughtfruitjuice,almostallofwhichispasteurized.
FERMENTEDDRINKSCONTAINACIDS,ALCOHOLS,OR(USUALLY)ABITOFBOTH.
Bothhavethepotentialtokeeppathogenicmicrobesatbay,stavingoffdigestiveproblems,andincreasingthelifespanoffood.Andformostpeople,consumptionofsmalltomoderateamountsofalcoholcanprovidebenefitstothecardiovascularsystem,tothenervoussystem(includingbrainfunction),andtotheliver.Itcanincreaselibidoandappetiteforfood.Ofcourse,toomuchalcoholcancauseproblems.Thedosemakesthepoison,astheSwiss-GermanphilosopherParacelsusobservedinthe1500s.Thisisacaseinwhichwemustreininourdesiretoseetheworldinsimple,good-vs.-badterms.
FERMENTEDDRINKSCANBEMOREDIGESTIBLETHANTHEIRRAWCOUNTERPARTS.
Certainfoodscontainstarchesthataredifficulttodigest.Forexample,eatingalotofrawcabbagecanleadtogas.Butfermentedcabbagecontainsfewerofthesetrickystarches—microbeshavepredigestedsomeofthem.Soeatingsauerkrautorkimchi,ordrinkingjuicedkrautorkimchi,cangiveyouthebenefitsofthecabbage,plusthebenefitsoffermentation,withoutthedigestivechallenges.
FERMENTATIONCANINCREASETHEBIOAVAILABILITYOFNUTRIENTSTHATOCCURNATURALLYINFOODS.
Phyticacid,forinstance,isacompoundthatoccursinfoodsanddrinks.Itbindscertainmineralsinawaythatcausesthemtopassthroughthebodyundigested.Fermentationcanbreakdownphyticacid,providingusaccesstomineralsthatotherwisewouldhavebeenlost.
FERMENTEDDRINKSDON’TUSEINDUSTRIALPRESERVATIVESANDMETHODS.
Industrialchemicalpreservativesandphysicalprocessesaregoodatpreservingfood.Unfortunately,someofthemarediscoveredtobetoxic,maybecarcinogenic,sometimesmanyyearsaftertheyareintroduced.Neitherfoodregulatorsnorindustrialproducerswanttoarrangeandperformthe20-or30-yearexperimentsthatwouldbenecessarytofigurethesethingsoutbeforemarketreleases.Theexperimentisdoneonthepublic.Thechoiceisyours:Wouldyouliketobepartoftheexperimentgroupandingestthesenewthings,
FERMENTEDDRINKSVERSUSOTHERDRINKS
Howdoesthecompetitionstackup?
•WATER:Comparedwithwater,fermenteddrinkscontainmoreminerals,morevitamins,andsometimesmoreprotein.Microbiologically,they’resaferbecauseoftheacids,thealcohols,andthemicrobesthattheycontain.
•RAWFRUITJUICE:Comparedwithrawfruitjuice,fermenteddrinkscontainmoreprobioticmicrobes,morenutrients,andmorebeneficialacids.Theycanalsocontainsignificantlylesssugar.Andfermenteddrinksaresafertodrink,haveasignificantlylongershelflife,andaremoredigestible.Theymayalsocontainsomealcohol.
•CANNEDFRUITJUICE:Cannedandboxedjuicesareheat-treated,sotheylosetheenzymesandsomeofthevitaminsthatfreshjuicesmayhave,andsomeofthemcontainindustrialpreservativesaswell.Sometimessyntheticvitaminsareaddedbackin,butonlytheonesthatweknowaboutandsometimesinformsthatmaynotbeasbioavailable.Theonlyadvantagethatcannedjuiceshaveoverfreshonesistheirshelflife.Fermenteddrinkswinagain.Andinfact,fermentingcanbeanexcellentwayofremedyingthe“deadness”ofthecannedandboxedjuices,impartingenzymes,vitamins,andlivemicrobestothem.
•MILK:Ultra-pasteurizedmilkissimilarinmanywaystocannedorboxedjuice.Itisshelf-stableanddead.Itusedtobesoldinrectangularboxes,butwhenthepublicintheUnitedStatesrejectedtheseboxes,dairydistributorsputtheboxedmilkbackintofamiliarcartonsandputitbackintherefrigeratedsection;thisillusionofperishabilityhelpssales.Pasteurizedmilkisalittlebetterthanultra-pasteurizedmilk,butnotmuch.Fermentingeitherofthesemilksintokefiroryogurtcangiveitnewlife.(Somepeoplereportdifficultiesfermentingultra-pasteurizedmilk;othersencounternoproblems.)
•SODA:Industrialsodasgenerallycontainnonutrientsorenzymeswhatsoever;havealotofsugar,ofteninformsthatleadtoweightgainanddiabetes;andhavepotentiallyproblematicingredients,suchasphosphoricacidandlargeamountsofcaffeine.Naturalfermentedsodasarebetterthanindustrialsodasineveryway.
•SPORTSDRINKS:So-calledsportsdrinksaremostlywater,withtheadditionofspiffycoloring,refinedsalt,highfructosecornsyrup,artificialsweetenersandflavorings,someoilorglycoltoimpartmouthfeel,andsomesortofacidtomakethemtastelesssweet.Comparethiswithsaltylemonade,madewithsaltypreserved(fermented)lemonsandsomesugar.Orcomparewithapint(500ml)ofwaterwithatablespoon(15g)ofsugarandapinchofseasalt;inthiscase,theprimarybenefitmaynotcomefromthefermentation,butsimplyfromnotdrinkingthesportsdrink.You’rebetteroffreplacingitwithalmostanythingwithapinchofsaltandbitofnaturalsugar!
•COFFEEANDTEA:Coffeeandteahavemanyinterestingqualities,potentialbenefits,andpotentialchallenges—toomanytodiscusshere.Fortunately,sweetenedteaandcoffeearefermentable,quitedeliciously(seeKombucha).
CHAPTERFOUR
BEFOREYOUSTARTTherecipesinthisbooksharemanytools,concepts,
andingredients,someofwhicharedescribedhere.
Beforeyoustartshopping,keepinmindthatyoudon’t
needeverytoolforeveryrecipe.Infact,ifyouarea
devoutminimalist,youcangetbywithnothingmore
thanatablespoonmeasureandafewMasonjars.This
chapterwillhelpyouthinkaboutthetoolsyoualready
have,howyoucanusethem,whatyoumaywantor
need,andwhatyoumaynotneed.
MEASURINGTOOLS
YOUWILLNEEDTHEFOLLOWING:
■Asmalldigitalkitchenscale
■Measuringcups,pitchers,orothervesselswithmeasurementmarkingsonthesides(someMasonjarshavemarkings)
■Tablespoonandteaspoonmeasures
Peopleindifferentpartsoftheworldusedifferentsystemsofmeasurement.IntheUnitedStates,wemostlyuseU.S.customaryunits,whichincludeteaspoons,tablespoons,ounces,cups,pints,quarts,andgallons.Muchoftherestoftheworldusethemetricsystem,whichincludesgramsforweight,litersforvolume,andfractionsandmultiplesofgramsandliters.TheU.S.systemdistinguishesliquidvolumemeasurementanddryvolume
measurement,whilethemetricsystemdoesnot.Confusingly,theU.S.systemusesthesamewordsforliquidanddrymeasures,buttheyarenotexactlyequal.Forinstance,aU.S.liquidquartis0.946(metric)liters,whereasaU.S.dryquartis1.101liters.MostU.S.cookbooksblurordonotmakethisdistinction.Thenthere’sweighttoconsider.Aliquidquartisexactly32fluidounces(by
volume).Aquartofliquidmayweighmoreorlessthan32ounces(byweight):32fluidouncesofwaterweighsalittlemorethan32ounces,butsomeliquids,suchashoney,aredenserthanwater—32fluidouncesofhoneymightweigh50ounces,forexample.Andtemperatureisanotherfactorthataffectstheweightofwaterandotherliquids.Tofurtherillustratethisvariation,considerthesaying,“Thepint’sapound,
theworldaround.”Asyoumaysuspectbynow,it’snotthatsimple.WecanqualifythesayingabitbysayingthataU.S.pintofwaterweighsclosetoapound(16ounces),dependingontemperatureandperhapsotherfactors.(Andingeneral,theweightofapintofyourfavoritefermentedbeveragewillbewithin10%oftheweightofapintofwater,andlikelymuchcloser.)ButaU.K.pintis20%biggerthanaU.S.pint,soaU.K.pintofwaterweighsabout20ounces,whichisdefinitelydifferentfromapound.AndCanadaandAustraliaofficiallydefineacuptobeaquarterofaliter,sointhosecountries,youmaygeta“pint”ofbeerthatturnsouttobeahalf-liter,whichisapproximately16.9fluidounces,somewherebetweenaU.S.pintandaU.K.pint.
Thegoodnewsisthatdrinkfermentingistolerantofminorvariationssuchasthese.Sotokeepthingsassimpleaspossible,inthisbook,we’llusethefollowingimpreciseequivalencesbetweenU.S.andmetric(seehere).(Donotassumethatyoucanusetheseconversionsforrecipesthatyoufindanywhereelse!)
2POUNDS≈1KILOGRAM
1QUART≈1LITER
1OUNCE≈30GRAMS≈30MILLILITERS
1TABLESPOON≈15GRAMS≈15MILLILITERS
1TEASPOON≈5GRAMS≈5MILLILITERS
IfyouuseallU.S.measuresorifyouuseallmetricmeasures,theratiosofingredientsintherecipeswillbeveryclosetowhatisintended.IfyoumixandmatchU.S.andmetric(aquartofwaterwith90gramsofsugar,oraliterofwaterwith3ouncesofsugar),youmightgetsomevariation,buttherecipesshouldstillwork.Thatsaid,ifyoucan,yourbestbetistogetasmallelectronickitchenscale
andmeasureweightsusinggrams.ThesescalesareavailableinexpensivelyinstoresorviatheInternet.Andyoumayfindyourselfusingthescale,andthemetricsystem,forotherrecipes,too!Inparticular,thebestbakingcookbooksallspecifyingredientsingramsandkilogramsbecauseprecisionisimportantinbaking.MasonjarsareavailableinbothU.S.andmetricsizes.Again,forour
purposes,the5%differencebetweenaquartandalitercanbeignored.
JAREQUIPMENT
YOUMAYWANTTHEFOLLOWING:
■Masonjarsandlids
■Acanningfunnel(stainlesssteelorplastic)
■Anylonmeshstrainerthatfitsinthetopofthecanningfunnel
■Chlorine-free,basket-stylepapercoffeefilters,orcleanhandkerchiefs,orpapertowels
■Awidemouthlidwithabuilt-inairlock
Masonjarsareinexpensive,durableglassjarsoriginallyintendedforhigh-temperaturecanningandfoodstorage.Theyhaveseenwideuseinavarietyofapplicationsandareparticularlywellsuitedtofermenting.Theyaresoldundervariousbrandnames,includingBall,Kerr,andBernardin,intwocommonmouthsizes:standardmouth(70mmouterdiameter)andwidemouth(86mm).Theyaregenerallysoldwithtwo-partmetalcanninglids.Thejarsthemselvesaredishwashersafe;thelidswillstarttocorrodeifyouputtheminthedishwasherbecauseoftheabrasivenessandalkalinityofdishwashingpowder,sotheyarebestwashedbyhand.Youcanoftenfindjarssecondhandoratyardsales,forinstance.
GASESANDAIRLOCKS
Whenyoufermentthings,youoftengenerategasesintheprocess.Someofthegasesdissolveinthefoodordrinkyou’refermenting,makingitfizzy.ButifyouarefermentinginaMasonjarwithaclosedlid,you’llneedtomanagethesegases.Ifyoufindyourselfinthissituation,it’spossibletoleaveaMasonjarlida
littleloose,allowingthegassestoescape.It’salsookaytotightenthelidfullyandthen“burp”itperiodicallybyopeningitbrieflyuntilitstopshissingandthenclosingit.Ifyouforgetormiscalculate,it’susuallynotdisastrous—thejarsthemselvesarestrongerthanthelids,soexcessgaswill(generally!)bendthelidandescaperatherthanbreakingtheglassjar.Still,it’sbettertoavoiddestroyingtoomanylids.Anotheroptionistobuylidswithactualairlocksbuiltin.Airlocksareone-
wayvalvesthatallowgasestoescapewithoutlettingoutsideairin,soyouwon’thavetorelievethepressureinyourjarsmanually.Recently,avarietyofdifferent
airlockdesignshavebecomeavailable.Theonesthatusewatertrapshavebeenusedsuccessfullybyfermentersforyears,butforconvenience,youmightprefertheoneswithoutwatertraps,sinceairlockwatercansometimesevaporateorgetcontaminatedormessy.Masonjarsarequiteversatile.Somehavemeasuresontheirsidesandcanbe
usedasmeasuringcupsinapplicationsthatdon’trequiregreatprecision(e.g.fermenting).Theycanalsobeusedasdrinkingglasses(smalleronesforsmallerdrinksandbiggeronesforbigdrinks!).Andinrecentyears,manyMasonjaraccoutrementshaveappearedonthemarket.Avarietyoflidsareavailable:plasticlidsthatcanbeputinthedishwasher;plasticandsiliconesippy-cuplidsandlidswithholesforstraws;lidswithavarietyofdifferentkindsofintegratedairlocks,specificallyintendedforfermenting;lidstohelpyousproutgrains;decorativelids,intendedforholdingflowersandsuch;cocktailstrainerlids;andsoon.TherearealsoMasonjarholdersandcoziesthatprovideinsulationforhotandcoldbeverages.ThereareevenkitstoconvertMasonjarsintoFrenchpresscoffeemakers,lamps,nightlights,saltandpeppershakers,Bluetoothspeakers,andmore.Thefollowingaresomeofthemostpopularsizes:
■8-ounce(cup,or250ml)standardmouth■16-ounce(pint,500ml)widemouth■32-ounce(quart,or1liter)widemouth■64-ounce(halfgallon,or2liter)widemouth
Therearetwolesscommonin-betweensizesthatdeservemention:12-ouncestandardmouthand24-ouncewidemouth.The12-ounce(375ml)jarisagoodonefordrinkingamodestportionofyourfavoritefermenteddrink.The24-ounce(750ml)widemouthjaristhelargeststandardsizethathasstraightsides,makingiteasytoclean,easytostore,andgreatforstoringfrozenliquids—thelackofashouldermakesiteasiertogeticebergsout.(Ifyouarefreezingit,besuretoleavethelidniceandloose—otherwiseyouriskbrokenjars!)Acanningfunnelisawidefunnelwithabroad“tip”thatfitsintothetopof
Masonjars.It’susefulforgettingsplashyorchunkythingsintoMasonjarswithoutmakingamess.Thefunnelcanalsoholdagood-sizestrainer.Canningfunnelsandstrainerscomeintoplayinsomeoftherecipeshere.They’reusefularoundthekitchenforotherthingstoo.Somerecipescallforhavingfermentsbreathewhilethey’refermenting.
Leavingjarscompletelyuncovered
Fermentationairlocksforbottlesandjars.
isnotrecommended;animals,dirt,andotherforeignobjectswillsoonfindtheirwayin.Thebestoptionistouseapermeablepaperorclothcover,securedwiththeringportionoftheMasonjarlidorwitharubberband.Coffeefilters,cleanclothhandkerchiefs,andpapertowelsallworkwell.Cheeseclothisnotasgood—ifitistoocoarse,itcanletbugsthrough!Fliesandvinegareelsarenotlife-threateningproblems,buttheygenerallymeanthrowingawayyourferment,washingeverythingthoroughly,andstartingoveragain.IfyouloveMasonjarsandyou
havealotofthem,youcanusethemforjustabouteverything,andyoudon’ttrulyneedanyotherjarsorbottlesormuchotherequipmentatall.Butotherkindsofvesselsarebetteroreasierforsomethings.
WHICHLID,ANDWHEN?
Generally,ifyouaretryingtobuildupalcohol,you’llwanttofermentwithaclosedlidoranairlock;ifyouareaimingforcarbonation,you’llwantaclosedlid;butifyouareaimingforasourfermentation,thenbreathingisprobablybest.
STORAGEBOTTLESANDJARS
YOUMAYWANTTHEFOLLOWING:
■Glassjugsofvarioussizes(alsoknownascarboys,growlers,ordemijohns)
■Airlocks,stoppers,andlidsforthejugs
■Flip-top(alsoknownasswing-toporGrolsch-style)bottlesinvarioussizes,and/orwinebottleswithcorks
Somefermentspreferlessexposuretoair.Thesearebestbrewedinsmall-mouthedvessels.Largeglassjugs,orcarboys,aregoodcandidates.Theseareavailableinavarietyofsizes,includingverylargeones,allowingyoutomakeverylargebatchesifyouwish.IntheUnitedStates,applejuiceisoftensoldingallon(4L)glassjugs,whichworkgreatformakinggallon-sizedbatchesofhardapplecider—yougettheingredientandtheequipmentinoneshot!Beerandsometimeskombuchaaresoldinhalfgallon(2L)growlersfromlocalbreweries.Keepthebottleanddon’tforgettokeepthecaptoo.Ifyouwouldlikeajuglargerthanagallon,checkalocalhomebrewshoportheInternet.Largerjugscanbesignificantlymoreexpensivethangallonjugsofapplejuice,butyouprobablywon’tneedmanylargerjugs.Glassisthebestmaterialforjugs.Plasticjugsarecheaper,lighter,andeasier
tofind,buttheplasticcouldpotentiallyleachfromthejugintoyourdrink.Someplasticcontainersareclassifiedasfood-safebyvariousauthoritiesandagencies.Food-safedoesnotmeanthattheydon’tleach—itjustmeansthatleachingislimitedtoacertainamount,whichisafunctionofsurfacearea,liquidaciditylevels,durationofstorage,andsoon.Afermentingjughasalotofsurfacearea,
andyoumaybeleavingyourdrinkinitforquiteawhile.Ifpartofyourreasonforfermentingistoimproveyourhealth,thenyouprobablywanttolimityourintakeofplastic.Youmayalreadybegettingplasticinotherfoodsthatyou’reeating,especiallyifyoueatinrestaurantsalotorifyouuseamicrowave.Youcanchooseyourbattlesanddecidewhethertheconvenienceofaplasticcarboyoutweighstherisk.It’shardtoreallyknow.Somefolkswillconcludethatit’sbesttoplayitsafe.Onceyouhaveyourjugs,youwillalsowantsomeairlockswithstoppers,
especiallyifyouarenotabletotendyourfermentsdaily(toburpthem).Homebrewshopsareagoodplacetofindtheseairlocks,oryoucanbuythemonline.Oneofthefunthingsaboutfermentedbeveragesistheirfizziness.The
problemisthatyoucanlosealotoffizzwhenyoupouryourdrinksfromlargebrewingvesselsintoportion-sizebottlesorjars.Fortunately,therearewaystolimitthisfizzloss.Asiphonpumpand/orasuitablelengthofflexiblehosingandsomeimprovisationcanallowyoutogettheliquidoutofjugswithaminimallossofbubbles.Siphonpumpsareplastic,butbecauseoftheshortdurationofcontactwithyourdrinks,theydon’traisethesameconcernsasplasticbrewingjugs.Theprocessofmovingyourfermentoutofthecarboyorkombuchajarinto
smallerbottlesiscalled(notsurprisingly)bottling.Youdon’tabsolutelyhavetobottleyourdrinks,butdoingsoletsyoukeepmoreofthefizz,letsyoumovethemintotherefrigeratorforstorage,andmakesitpossibletoperformsecondaryfermentationinthebottle(seehere).Manysortsofbottlescanbeusedforbottling.Ifyouareambitious,youcanusebeerbottlesandgetabottle-cappingmachine,butthisisnotatallnecessary.Infact,Masonjarsarefine,andifyoubottleinthesamejarsyou’regoingtoservein,youeliminateoneroundofpouring,decreasewaste,andsimplifycleanup.Flip-topGrolsch-stylebottlesarenicetoo,andbecauseoftheirnarrowneck,theypreservefizzforlongeroncethey’reopen;theyarealsofancier-lookingthanMasonjars.Emptybottlesfromstore-boughtkombuchaareagreatchoice,too,becausetheyaredesignedtobestrongenoughtoholdacarbonateddrink.Evenwinebottleswithcorkswilldoforsomeferments,althoughtheycan’tholdfizzaswellastheothers,andthey’renotasdurable.
KOMBUCHASUPPLIES
YOUMAYWANTTHEFOLLOWING:
■Aone-ortwo-gallon(4Lor8L),cylindricalglasscookiejar–stylecontainer,withorwithoutabuilt-inspigotnearthebottom;orasmallwoodenbarrel
■Alargehandkerchief,kitchentowel,orunbleachedbasket-typecoffeefilterthatcancoverthetopofthecookiejar,plusarubberbandorstringtosecureit
■Asiphonpump(optional)
Becauseofthemicrobesinvolved,kombuchaneedstobreathewhileit’sbrewing.Anidealbrewingvesselisa2-gallon(8L)glasscookiejar–stylecontainerapproximatelyaswideasitistall.Asimilarly-dimensionedwoodenbarrel,openononeend(thetop),isanotherpossibility.Ifthesearetooheavyforyoutolift,youcanusesmallercontainers.They’realllikelytoworkbetterthanaMasonjar,forafewreasons.First,Masonjarslargerthanahalfgallon(2L)arehardtofind,andahalfgallon(2L)batchisonthesmallsideifyoulikedrinkingkombucha.Additionally,whenbrewingkombucha,theratioofjarwidthtoheightplaysafactorinmaintainingthebalancebetweenthebacteriaandtheyeast.Masonjarsaretallerthantheyarewide,sokombuchabrewedinMasonjarsmaytakelongerthankombuchabrewedinwidercontainers,andyoumaywindupwithslightlyhigherlevelsofalcohol.Tosimplifythekombucha-makingprocess,youmaywantajarorbarrelwith
aspigotinstallednearthebottom.Woodspigotsaresometimesavailable;otherwise,youmightbehappywithaplasticspigot.Ifyoudouseaplasticspigot,findonethatisfoodsafeandmanufacturedinacountrywithconsumerprotectionandregulations(forexample,theUnitedStates,notChina).Plasticspigotsarelessproblematicthanplasticjugsbecausespigotshavemuchlesssurfacearea.Nonetheless,puristsmaystillbalkathavingacidicliquidsinlong-termcontactwithplasticofanysort.Siphonpumpsandhosesareapossiblealternativetospigots.Andit’sentirelypossibletobrewkombuchawithoutspigotsorpumps,albeitatsomecostinconvenienceandfizz,bypouringratherthansiphoningorspigotting.(Seechapter7formoreonkombucha.)
SAFETYANDSANITATION
YOUMAYWANTTHEFOLLOWING:
■Mild,low-residue,non-antibacterialsoap
■Dishwasheranddishwasherpowder(optional)
■Whitevinegarforbrewingequipment,ifneeded
Beginningfermenterssometimesworryaboutfoodpoisoningandmicrobiologicalsafety.Thesafetyconcernsfallintotwogeneralcategories.First,manyofushave
heardstoriesaboutimproperlycannedfoodsleadingtopotentiallyfatalcasesofbotulism.Theconcernwithcannedfoodsisreal,althoughthenumberofactualincidentsisprettylow.EveryyearintheUnitedStates,between100and200casesofbotulismarereportedandconfirmed,andmoreprobablygounidentifiedorunreported.Cannedfoods,whethercannedathomeorinfactories,mustbeproduceddeliberatelyandmethodically.Thegoodnewsisthatveryspecificprocedureshavebeendocumenteddescribinghowtoproducecannedfoodssafely;iftheseproceduresarefollowedclosely,majorproblemsarevery,veryunlikely.Theevenbetternewsisthatfermentingresemblescanningonlysuperficially.BotharefoodpreservingtechniquesandbothofteninvolveMasonjars,butthat’swherethesimilaritiesend.Canninginvolvesdestroyingallthemicrobes,generallywithheat,pressure,andchemicals,whilefermentinginvolvessupportingsomemicrobes,discouragingothers,andplayingthefirstgroupagainstthesecond,byloweringthepH,controllingaccesstooxygen,andmoresubtlyvaryingtemperature.Canningisamassacre,whilefermentingisawarofattritionanddiplomacy.Fermenters’problemsarequitedifferentfromcanners’.Canning’sgreatestscourge,botulism,isnotanissueforfermenters,inlargepartbecauseofthelowerpHinvolvedinfermentation.Second,fermentinggoesagainstourrefrigeratortraining.“Putitbackinthe
refrigeratorwhenyou’redone,”ourparentswouldrepeat.Wemustuntrainourselvesabitifwewishtoferment.Toeverythingthereisaseason,includingrefrigeration.It’simportanttounderstandthatrefrigerationslowsdownthefermentationprocessesthatwe’reinterestedin.Sometimes,wedowanttoslowdowntheseprocesses,butmostofthetimewedon’t.Temperatureissomethingwecanadjuststrategically.
Sanitationisanotherplacewherecanningandfermentingdiffer.Canningbestpracticesdictatethatweboiljarsandlidsbeforeweusethemandthenboileverythingforspecificperiodsoftimeduringtheprocess,possiblyunderpressuretoachieveanevenhighertemperature.Fermentingismoreforgiving;it’simportanttomaintainacleanworkspacebutitneednotbespotless.Jarsandbottlesshouldbefreeofforeignobjects,insectsinparticular.Glassmaybesterilizedwithhotorboilingwaterifdesired,butit’snotnecessary.Masonjarsaredesignedtobeimmersedinboilingwater,putinthedishwasher,orwashedbyhand;anyoftheseisadequate.Boilingisoftenthebestoptionforcleaningsmall-neckedjugs,butagain,it’snotnecessary.Ingeneral,usemild,low-residue,unscenteddishsoapordishwasherpowder.
Low-residuesoapshouldbeusedonhands,too.Manygreenbrandsaregood,althoughsomeofthemare“green”inmarketingonlyandcontainharshdetergentsorstrong“natural”scentsthattakehourstodissipate!Antibacterialsoapsareparticularlyproblematic.Iftheyaren’trinsedoffhands
andequipmentcompletely,theycanleadtofailedferments.Worseyet,someantibacterialsoapscontaindangeroustoxicingredientssuchastriclosan.Doyourememberinchapter1whenwementionedthathumansaregiantbagsofmicrobes?Ouroverallhealthisafunctionofthehealth,diversity,andbalanceofourcollectionsofmicrobes.Unconsciouslypoisoningthesemicrobescanleadtoamyriadofmysteriousmaladies.Antibacterialsoapsgenerallydon’tevendoagoodjobatwhatthey’retryingtodo—theyjustwipeoutsomesubsetofthemicrobestheycomeacross.Thebestadviceistostayawayfromantibacterialsoapcompletely,whetherornotyou’refermenting!Infact,triclosan,acommonantibacterialingredient,isnowbannedinsoapsinpartsoftheUnitedStatesandwillhopefullycontinuetobebannedmorewidely.Triclosanandantibacterialsoapswereavictoryofmarketingoverscienceandpublichealth.They’vebeeninconsumerproductsfordecades,andregulatorsareonlynowdecidingthatmaybetheydomoreharmthangood.Thereareafewpiecesofbrewingequipmentthatarehardtocleanandcan’t
goinadishwasher,suchassiphonpumpsandtubing.Homebrewstoressellchemicalsanitizingliquidsforcleaningthesesortsofthings.Commercialbrewersmaynothavemanyotheroptions.Butforhomepurposes,runningwhitevinegarthroughtheseandthenflushingthemwellwithwatershouldsuffice,withnoriskstoourhealthortoourferments.
(A)stainlesssteelbowlsandaspatula,(B)du-rag,(C)candythermometerandwide-mouthMasonjar,(D)pineapplespiralizer,(E)smallmeshstrainer,(F)ladle,(G)chef’sknife,(H)lemonzester,(I)vegetablegrater,(J)woodenspoon,(K)syphonwithhose,(L)largermeshstrainer,(M)stainlesssteelfunnels,(N)vegetablepeeler
MISCELLANEOUS
YOUMAYNEEDTHEFOLLOWING:
■Alargewoodenspoon
■AladlesmallenoughtofitinsideawidemouthMasonjar
■Largemixingbowls(stainlesssteelislight,durable,easytowash)
■Fruitflytraps
■Flyswatters
■Kitchentowels
Asyoubecomeanexperiencedfermenter,youwilldiscoverothertoolsthatcanhelpyouinvariousways.Everyonehastheirfavorites.Thefruitflytrapisausefuldevice.Fruitfliesareattractedtovarious
ferments,includinganythinginvolvingfruitjuice,kombucha,orvinegar.(See“TheDrunkenMonkey”.)Tomakeafruitflytrap,fillasmall(4-ounce[125ml]or8-ounce[250ml])Masonjarhalfwaywithvinegarorkombuchaandaddonedropofdishsoap;then,putapapertowelorcoffeefilteroverthetop,secureitwithacanninglidring,andpunchseveralsmallishholesinthepapertop.Whenthefliesbecomeintriguedbythedelicioussmellinthejar,they’llgothroughtheholesanddiveintotheliquid.Becausethesoapdecreasesthesurfacetensionoftheliquidandcoatstheirwings,theyperish.(Thetrapsgetgross.Makefreshonesasneeded.)Flyswatterscanbeusefultoo.Recently,electricflyswattershavebecome
available.Theylooklikeacrossbetweenatennisracketandabugzapper.Theyareeffective,oddlysatisfyingtouse,andalsohelpbuildhand-eyecoordination.Itisworthmentioningthatyoudon’twanttousetoxicinsecticidespraynear
yourfood.(Oranywhere,really.)
WATERWaterisakeytohumanlife.Muchmunicipaltapwatercontainsimpurities,whichvaryfromplacetoplaceandfromtimetotime.Theycanbeviewedasbelongingtothreecategories:unintentionaltoxicimpurities,intentionalimpurities,and(oftenbeneficial)traceminerals.Unintentionaltoxicimpuritiesincludeheavymetals(lead,mercury,and
cadmium),biologicalcontaminants(sporesandprotozoa),andchemicalresiduesfrompesticides,herbicides,andprescriptionpharmaceuticals.Weareallbetteroffwithoutthese.Intentionalimpuritiesareaddedtowaterduringthepurificationprocess.
Someoftheseimpurities,generallychlorineandchlorinederivatives,areintendedtoinhibitthegrowthofmicrobes.Forwaterintransit,thismakessomesense.Butonceitreachesyourhouse,ithasserveditspurpose.Chlorineinvariousformswillinhibitthegrowthofthemicrobesinyourferments.Itwillalsoinhibitthegrowthofdesirablemicrobesinyourgutandonyourbody.Tracemineralsareleftinthewaterduringthepurificationprocess.Sometrace
mineralscanbehealthful,althoughwedon’tneedtogetthemfromdrinkingwater—wecanfindthemelsewhere.Activelyfilteringyourwateristhebestwaytoaddressbothunintentionaland
intentionalimpurities.Waterfiltersrangefromsimpleplasticpitcherstoelaboratewhole-housesetups,withmanyoptionstochoosefrominbetween.Thebeststrategyistocontactyourlocalwaterauthorityandaskthemwhatsortsofimpuritiesyourwatermightcontain,andthengaugeyourfilteringstrategyaccordingly.Reputablefiltermanufacturerswillbeabletotellyouwhattheirfiltersaregoodatandwhatthey’renotgoodat.Havingsaidallthat,anyfilterisbetterthannofilter.Ifapitcher-typefilteris
what’smanageableforyou,thenuseone.Theyarequiteeffectiveforsomekindsofwateradditives,althoughtheyarenoteffectiveforchloramine,aformofchlorinethatmoreandmorewaterauthoritiesarestartingtouse,andtheyarealsonothelpfulforremovingfluoride,anothercontaminantoftenaddedtoourwaterwithoutourconsent.Ifit’scompletelyimpracticalforyoutofilteryourwater,don’t.Butifyour
fermentsfailtothrive,waterproblemsmaybeoneofthereasons.Boilingwaterandthencoolingitcanremoveorneutralizesomesortsofadditives,althoughcontrarytopopularbelief,itwon’tquicklyremoveallformsofchlorine.
SUGAR
YOUMAYUSETHEFOLLOWING:
■Whitegranulatedcanesugar
■Brownsugar
■Rawsugar,Demerarasugar,Muscovado,Turbinado,orSucanat
■Panela,piloncillo,orjaggery
■Molasses
■Coconutsugar
■Honey
■Maplesyrup
■Aguamieldemaguey
Sugar,inoneformoranother,isanimportantingredientinmostfermentedbeveragerecipes.That’sbecausesugariscentraltothechemicalreactionsinvolvedinfermentation.Mostofitgetstransformedintosomethingelseduringthefermentation,sodon’tbealarmedwhenthekombucharecipecallsforafullcup(200g)ofwhitesugar.Thesugarisfoodforthemicrobes,notforyou,anditwillmostlybegonebythetimeyoudrinkthekombucha.Formoreaboutthechemicalreactionsinvolvedinfermentation,seechapter3.Artificialsweetenerssuchasaspartame,saccharine,andsucralosecannottake
theplaceofsugarintheserecipes.Microbescan’tdigestthesesweeteners.Neithercanhumans,generally;wewoulddowelltotakeourcuefromthemicrobes.Naturalnon-caloricsweetenerssuchassteviaalsowon’twork.Microbeswantactualsugar,period,althoughitdoesn’thavetobewhitesugar.Powderedsugarisnotagoodchoicebecauseitgenerallycontainscornstarch
tokeepitfromclumping.Youprobablydon’twantcornstarchinyourferments,althoughitmightnotruinthings.AndifyouaretryingtoavoidGMO,thendefinitelyavoidthecornstarch,sincemostcornisgeneticallymodified;andoptforcanesugaroverbeetsugar,sincemostbeetsugarcomesfromgeneticallymodifiedbeets.Asfarassugaranditsrelativesgo,thelighterthecolor,thepureritis.Purity
soundslikeagoodthing,butinthiscase,itisn’talways.Muchofthetime,we’rebetteroffwithdarker,lessrefinedsugarordarkerliquidsweetenerssuchasmaplesyrup,molasses,andaguamieldemaguey.Theyaredarkbecausethey
containminerals,oftenineasilyassimilatedforms.Theyareallmostlysugar,sofermentationcanhappenjustfine.Makingfermenteddrinkswithunrefinedsugarsisonewaytogetmore
mineralsinourdiets.Whenthesugarisdigestedbythemicrobes,themineralsareleftbehindforus.Infact,fermentationisawaytogetagooddoseofmineralswithoutallthesugarthattheywereoriginallypairedwith—amuchhigherratioofmineralstosugarthantheyhadintheiroriginalform.(Andassumingourkidneysareworkingproperlyandwe’redrinkingenoughliquids,it’sveryunlikelythatwe’lloverwhelmourbodieswithminerals.)
(A)panela(piloncillo),(B)maplesyrup,(C)turbinadosugar,(D)aguamieldemaguey,(E)brownsugar,(F)rawhoney,(G)whitesugar
Thesedays,it’seasyforustofailtogetthedietarymineralsweneed.Thereareafewfactorsthatcontributetoourmineraldeficits.Oneisthatmodernsoilfertilizationtechniquesfailtoreplenishsomeofthetracemineralsinthesoil.Mineralsarenotmetabolizedordestroyedbyourbodies;theypassthroughorareassimilatedintotissuesandbones.Intheolddays,manureandcorpsesfromanimalsandevenfromhumansallwentbackintothesoil—thingsoperatedinaclosedloop.Inthetimesinceindustrializationandtheadventoflarge-scaleanimalconfinement,manurewentfrombeinganassettobeingawater-pollutingliability.Ournewfossilfuel–basedfertilizersdon’thaveashighmineralcontentasthefertilizerthatweusedtogetforfree.Anotherreasonwemayfailtogetallourmineralshastodowithmodern
grainpreparation.Traditionalpreparationofteninvolvedlongperiodsofsoakingandfermenting,whichneutralizedmineral-blockingcompoundsingrains,suchasphyticacid.Modern,“quick”grainpreparationtechniquesdonotcountertheseantinutritiouscompounds,soweareoftenlessabletoextractthemineralsthatweneedfromourfoods.AthirdreasonformineralshortfallsisthemodernStandardAmericanDiet—
oneoftheUnitedStates’manysuccessfulculturalexports!Alotofusconsumeemptycaloriesthesedays.Processedfoods,sodas,andcommercialbakedgoodsseldomcontaintheirshareofinterestingnutrients.Theyaremadeupofstarchesand/orrefinedsugars,refinedsalt,unhealthyfatsofonesortoranother(usuallyindustriallyproducedvegetableoils,oftentoxicallyprocessed,withresiduesofsolvents),andchemicalflavoringsandcoloringsandpreservativesofvarioussorts.Themoreprocessedfoodweeat,thelessroomwehaveinourdietsandinourstomachsfornutrient-densefoods.Finally,wegetdepletedbytheconstantsocialandphysicalstressesofjobs
andmodernlife,combinedwiththeenvironmentalstressorsofpollution.Andrememberhowpilotingtwo-tonfortressescomplicatesourrelationshipwithalcohol?Ourbodieswerenotdesignedtobeintheongoingstateofstressandheightenedalertthatarepartandparcelofmodernindustriallife,includingdrivingcars.Itraisesourcortisollevelsandincreasesournutritionalrequirements.Sojustatthetimeinhistorywhenwecouldusemorenutrition,wearegettingless.Theupshotofallthisisthatwewouldalldowelltogatherourmineralswhile
wemay.Afewoftherecipesinthisbookrequireaspecificsweetenerforreasonsoftraditionorcategorization(meadisnotmeadunlessit’smadewith
honey),butmostoftherecipesarenotverypicky.Fermentingprovidesusanopportunitytobenefitfromthemineralsfoundinavarietyofsugarsandjuiceswithouthavingtoconsumealotofsugar.Andtherearetimeswemaywanttouseplainwhitesugar,andthat’sokaytoo.Someofthesugarsourcesthatcanbeusedintheserecipesincludetheones
listedhere.Manyofthemareavailableinorganicforms,whichisgenerallypreferable.Notethatsomeformsofsugarareknownbymultiplenames—foodnamingisnotperfectlystandardized,especiallyacrossdifferentregions.Mostsweetenersaredenserthanwhitesugar,andmostarelesssweet.Thus,if
youaremeasuringbyvolume,youcoulduseasmallermeasureofanothersweetenerthanyoumightofsugar,butifyouaremeasuringbyweight,youcouldusemore.Theratiosarenothardandfast;analyzethenutritionlabelsonyoursweeteners,ifyoulike.Abetterplan,regardlessofanythingelse,maybetouseanamountofsweetenercomparabletotheamountofsugarcalledforintherecipe;takenotes;seehowyourbatchturnsout;andthenadjustasyouseefitnexttime.
CHAPTERFIVE
FIVE-MINUTERECIPESSWEETLASSI
SALTYORSAVORYLASSI
DOOGH
SALTYFERMENTEDLEMONADEORLIMEADE
SWITCHEL
SEKANJABIN
Youmaythinkthatyoudon’thavetimetomake
fermentedbeverages.
Butyouwouldbewrong!
Togetyoustartedintheworldoffermenteddrinks,
herearesomesimplerecipesthatyoucanputtogether
quickly.Onceyouhavealltheingredients,therecipesthemselvesaretrivial.Thefermented
ingredientsyou’llbeusingincludethefollowing:■Plainfull-fatyogurt,store-boughtorhomemade
(seehere),orMilkKefir
■Raw,unfilteredapplecidervinegar,store-boughtorhomemade(seehere)■Preservedlemons,store-boughtorhomemade(seerecipeinRealFoodFermentation,orontheInternet)
HONEYINTHERAWSomeoftherecipesinthissectioncallforrawhoney.It’seasiesttomixthehoneyintodrinksifit’sdissolvedinalittlewarmwaterfirst.Butbecareful:Ifthewateristoohot,thehoneywillnolongerberaw,andcookedhoneyislessnutritious.Thetemperatureatwhichcookingstartsisaround118°F(48°C)—thisis
whereenzymes(whichareproteins)starttochangetheirshape,renderingtheminactive,generallypermanently.Notcoincidentally,thisisalsothetemperatureatwhichyourfingerstartstohurtifyouputitinhotwater:Itistoouradvantage
toknowwhenwearegettingcooked,andwehaveevolvedtoknowwhenit’shappening!So,ifyou’remakingdrinkstobeconsumedimmediately,youcanusethefingertestfortemperature.Orifyou’resavingthedrinksforlaterorsharingthemwithotherpeople,youcouldgrabakitchenthermometerinstead.(Somepeoplemightprefernottohaveyourfingersintheirdrinks!)
5-MINUTEFERMENTEDVEGETABLEJUICES
Youcanmakepotentdigestivetonicsfromfermentedvegetablessuchasrawsauerkraut,kimchi,andpickles.LookforthematyourgrocerystoreorfermentthemyourselfusingrecipesfromtheInternetorbookssuchasRealFoodFermentation.Ifyouhaveajuicer,simplyjuicethem!Oruseablendertoblendthemandthenpressthepuréethroughafine-meshstrainerwithamixingbowlunderneathtocollecttheliquid.Servethisresultingliquid,mixedwithsparklingwaterifyoulike.Seehereformoredetails.
◁SWEETLASSILassiisayogurtdrinkpopularontheIndiansubcontinent.Servedchilled,it’slight,frothy,and
immenselyrefreshing.Makeitplain,sweetenit,oraddsavoryflavors(seehere).Onceyou’ve
masteredthemethod,startadjustingtheamountofvariousingredientstosuityourselforyour
familyandfriends.Ifyouhitonaparticularlyinspiringcombination,don’tforgettowriteitdown!
Lassiisaneasypathtodrinkableyogurt.Theonlyequipmentyou’llneedforthemostbasic,fruit-
freeversionisaMasonjarlargeenoughtoholdeverythingwithatleastaninch(2.5cm)ofroomto
spareatthetop.UsingMasonjarsmakescleanupeasysincetheycangointhedishwasher.Andif
youhaveablender,fruitlassisareeasytoo.(Infact,thethreadsonsomeblenderjarsmatchthe
threadsonstandardmouthMasonjars.Ifyouhaveoneoftheseblenders,youcanexploreblending
directlyinyourMasonjar.)YIELD:ABOUT2SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
1cup(225g)plainfull-fatyogurt,store-boughtorhomemade
1cup(250ml)waterand/orhigh-quality,full-fatmilk
Afewicecubes
Ifnotusingfruit,upto2teaspoons(10g)granulatedsugar,(15g)rawhoney,maplesyrup,oraguamieldemagueyPinchofseasalt
1/8teaspoongroundcardamom(optional)Pulpof1mango(about1cup[175g])or1cup(175g)choppedfreshpineapple(optional)
WITHOUTFRUIT
Placetheyogurt,water,ice,sugar,salt,andcardamom(ifusing)inaMasonjar.Closethelidtightly.Shakevigorouslyuntilfrothy.Theicehelpswiththefrothing;tomakeitfrothierandlighter,addatleast1/4cup(60ml)morewaterandshakemorevigorously.
Removethelidandserve.Ifyoudon’tserveitallatonce,shakeagainimmediatelybeforeservingtherest.
WITHFRUIT
Blendtheyogurt,water,ice,salt,cardamom(ifusing)andmangoorpineappleinablenderonhighspeedforabout30secondsoruntilniceandfrothy.Ifnotcompletelyblended,repeatuntilsmooth.Servewithmoreiceifdesired.
SALTYORSAVORYLASSITheselassisaregreatwithmeals.Adjustthespicesbasedonwhereyoulive,what’savailable,and
whatyoulike.Trythecurrypowderifyoulike.Gingerisrefreshing,turmericwillgiveyourdrinka
wonderfulorangecolor,andcuminaddsintenseflavor.Mintandcucumberareagreatsummer
combination;tryfive-spicepowderorcinnamoninthewinter.Alltheindividualspiceshavespecific
healthbenefits,andyogurtandspicescanhelpyourdigestion!
YIELD:ABOUT2SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
1cup(225g)plainfull-fatyogurt,store-boughtorhomemade
1cup(250ml)watermixedwithabout1/4cup(60g)crushedicePinchofseasalt
SEASONINGOFYOURCHOICE(CHOOSEFROMTHEFOLLOWING):1teaspooncurrypowder,ortotaste
1teaspoonfive-spicepowder,ortotaste
1/4teaspoongroundcumin,ortotaste1/4teaspoongroundfennelseed,ortotaste1teaspoonpowderedturmericorfreshturmericgratedextra-finewithamicroplaneorzester,ortotastePlacetheyogurt,water,salt,andseasoninginaMasonjar.Closethelidtightly.Shakevigorouslyuntilfrothy.Theicehelpswiththefrothing;tomakeitfrothierandlighter,addatleast1/4cup(60ml)waterandshakemorevigorously.
Removethelidandserve.Ifyoudon’tserveitallatonce,shakeagainimmediatelybeforeservingtherest.
DOOGHDooghissimilartolassiinthatit’sasavoryyogurt-baseddrink.Thebiggestdifferencebetween
doogh,whichhasitsrootsinancientPersia,andlassiisthatdooghshouldbefizzy—thisiswhywe
makeitwithsparklingwater.It’sarefreshing,easywaytointroduceprobioticdrinksintoyourdiet.
Thisrecipeisashortcutversion.Ifyou’refeelingbold,weencourageyoutotrythetraditionalIranian
recipe:Makehomemadeyogurtandthenletitsitforseveralweeksatroomtemperatureinajaror
bottlewithanairtightlid.Whenitstartsgettingbubbly,it’sready.Youcanfindahomemadeyogurt
recipeshownhere.
YIELD:2SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
1cup(225g)plainfull-fatyogurtorMilkKefir(seehere)1/2teaspoondriedmintPinchofseasalt
Pinchofgroundblackpepper
1cup(250ml)sparklingormineralwater
1cup(250g)icecubesorcrushedice
Freshmintleaves(optional)
Stirtheyogurt,mint,salt,andpepperinaquart(1L)Masonjaruntilthemint,salt,andpepperaredistributedevenlythroughouttheyogurt.Addthesparklingwaterandstirjustenoughtoblendwell.(Themoreyoustir,themorebubblesyou’lllose.)Itwilllooklikesmooth,bubblyliquidyogurt.
Dividetheicebetweentwoglasses.Pourthedooghovertheice.Garnishwithfreshmintleaves(ifusing)andserve.
SALTYFERMENTEDLEMONADEORLIMEADESaltylemonadeisnature’ssportsdrink.Itcontainstheelectrolytesandtracemineralsthatweneed
whensweating,alongwithabitofsugarthatcanbehelpfulforkeepingourenergyup.Andifit’s
madewithpreservedlemons(orlimes),itprovidesthehealthanddigestivebenefitsoffermented
foodstoo.
Manyculturesenjoylemonadeorlimeade.ThisrecipeisclosesttotheVietnameseversion,Soda
Chanh,whichissaltyandsparklyandfeaturesmintleaves.Asyoumakeitagainandagain,try
dialingbacktheamountofsweetener.Learntoenjoythebalancebetweensweetandsourrather
thanjustthesugarrush!
YIELD:1SERVING(8OUNCES,OR250ML)
1/8ofasaltypreservedlemoninbrineor1/4orasaltypreservedlimeinbrine(findarecipeinRealFoodFermentationorontheInternet)Sweetenerofyourchoice,totaste(startwith1teaspoonnaturalsugarorrawhoney)Afewmintleaves(optional)
Crushedice
1cup(250ml)sparklingorstillwater
Aggressivelymuddlethepreservedlemon(orlime),sweetener,mintleaves(ifusing),andicewithadrinkmuddler,mortarandpestle,blender,orwhatevermeansconvenient.Itdoesnothavetobecompletelyuniform.Addthewaterandstir.Serveinatallglasswithastraw.
SWITCHELSwitchelbelongstothefamilyofvinegar-orwine-baseddrinksthathasbeenaroundsinceClassical
Greektimesorbefore.(Seechapter2.)Apopularcolonial-eradrinkintheUnitedStates,itis
experiencingsomethingofacomebackinthetwenty-firstcentury.Ittraditionallyfeaturesapple
cidervinegarandmaplesyrup,buttheonlytrulyrequiredingredientsarevinegarandwater,solet’s
trysomeinteresting(anddelicious!)variations.Thisversionaddsgingerandabitofsweetener.Fora
tropicaltwist,usepineappletepachevinegarandaguamieldemaguey.
Forthegreatesthealthbenefits,makesuretouseraw,unfilteredvinegar.Switchelmadewith
pasteurizedvinegarisnotafermenteddrink,anditwillbemissingmicrobes,enzymes,andvitamins.
Molassesworkswellinthisrecipe,andithasagreatmineralprofile.
YIELD:ABOUT4SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
3tablespoons(60g)maplesyrup,aguamieldemaguey,molasses,orrawhoney3tablespoons(45ml)raw,unfilteredappleciderorpineappletepachevinegar,store-boughtorhomemade(seehere)1teaspoongratedfreshginger
Juiceof1/2ofalime(optional)1quart(1L)filteredwater
Placealltheingredientsinahalfgallon(2L)Masonjar.Closethelidtightlyandshakewell.Refrigerateovernightand/orserveoverice.
VARIATION:Mixalltheingredientsexceptforthewater.Thiscanbedoneaheadoftime,andtheresultingsyrupcanbestoredintherefrigeratorforaweekormore.Whenreadytoserve,pour1ounce(30ml)ofsyrupintoaglassoverafewicecubesandadd7ounces(200ml)ofsparklingwater.Theresultisaniceprobioticsodaalternative.
SEKANJABINSekanjabinisapopulardrinkinIran,whereitisservedovericeduringthesummer.It’saflawless
combinationofsweetandsour,andit’simmenselyrefreshing—idealforanyonewhowantstoadd
microbestohisorherdiet.Onceyou’vemadethesekanjabinsyrup,itonlytakesafewminutesto
preparethedrink,andthesyrupitselflastsformonths.
YIELD:ABOUT11/2GALLONS(6L)4cups(800g)organicgranulatedsugar
21/2cups(625ml)filteredwater1/2cup(50g)freshmintleavesor1/4cup(30g)gratedfreshginger,dependingondesiredflavor1cup(250ml)raw,unfilteredredorwhitewinevinegarDissolvethesugarinthewaterinamedium-sizepotovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally.Oncesimmering,addthemintleaves.Simmer,uncovered,untilthesyrupthickens,about10to15minutes.Removefromtheheatandletcooltoroomtemperature.Strainoutthesolidswithastrainer.Addthevinegar.Storeatroomtemperatureinawell-sealedcontainersuchasaMasonjar.
Topreparethedrink,stir2tablespoons(30ml)ofsyrupinto1cup(250ml)ofcoldwater.
CHAPTERSIX
STARTERS,MASTERRECIPES,ANDGENERALPRINCIPLESMASTERRECIPE:GINGERBUG
MASTERRECIPE:YOGURT
MASTERRECIPE:MILKKEFIR
MASTERRECIPE:WHEY
MASTERRECIPE:VINEGAR
MASTERRECIPE:WATERKEFIR
Humanshavebeenfermenting,thinkingabout
fermentation,andattemptingtotroubleshootferments
throughoutrecordedhistory.Ourunderstandingofthe
processreflectsthenaturalscienceofourtimeandour
culture.Today,weexplainitusingmicrobesand
chemicalreactions.Traditionalexplanationsof
fermentationmayhaveincludedideasaboutplantspiritsoraboutforcesattachedtospecificvessels
inwhichthingsferment,andwaysthattheseforcescantravelfromonevesseltoanother.
Theseideasmightsoundlikesuperstitiontoourmodernears,buttheyhavebeenjustasusefultotheirproponentsasourexplanationsaretous.Andwecan’tknowhowourcurrentexplanationswillsoundtohumansathousandyearsfromnow!
THEBESTMICROBESFORTHEJOB:BACTERIAVS.YEASTVS.MOLDOneofthefirstthingstodetermineaboutanyfermentationprojectiswhatsortsofmicrobesareinvolved:bacteria,yeast,ormold.Bacteriaaremicroscopic,single-celledorganisms.(Andlestyouthinkthat
sayingboth“microscopic”and“single-celled”isredundant,considerthatachickeneggisasinglecell!)Bacteriaareneitherplantsnoranimals,andthey
wereamongthefirstformsoflife.Atypicalhumanbodyishosttohundredsoftrillionsofbacterialcells,mostofwhichresideinthegut.Manybacteriaproducelacticacidaspartoftheirmetabolism.Lacticacid–
producingbacteria,orlacticacidbacteria(LABs)forshort,canbefoundinplantsandmilkproducts,intheair,inourbodies,andinotherplaces.LABsarenotablefortheirabilitytotolerateacidicconditions.Manyothersortsofbacteriadonottolerateacidicconditions—includingmanyofthebacteriathatarepotentiallyharmfultoushumans.LABsproduceacidthatinhibitsthegrowthoftheseharmfulbacteria,thuscontributingtothelong-termsafetyoffermentedfoods.That’swhyLABsareknownasfriendlybacteria.Especiallyincolderclimates,wherefreshfoodislessavailableyear-round,LABsandlacticacidfermentation(lactofermentation)havebeenimportanttohumanfoodwaysbecauseoftherolestheycanplayinpreservingfood.Lacticacidfermentsincludeallbutafewcheeses,allsourdairyproducts,andmosttraditionalsourpreparations,includingsourvegetables.Vinegarsinvolveprimarilyaceticacidbacteria;theirstoryissimilartothestoryofLABs.Yeastsarealsosingle-celledorganisms,morecomplicatedandphysically
largerthanbacteria.Membersofthefungikingdom,theirspecialtalentisproducingalcohol;mostalcoholicdrinksinvolveyeastinsomeway.Theyalsoproducecarbondioxide,whichiswhytheymakedrinksbubbleandbreadrise.Yeastshavebeenkeytothehumanrelationshipwithwheatespecially,butalsowithhoney,grapes,apples,andotherfruits.Thankstoyeasts,breadandbeeraretwoofthemostimportantformsofpreservedwheat.Mead,wine,cider,andotherfruitwinesalsoinvolveyeast.Strongeralcoholicdrinkshaveyeast-fermenteddrinksasstartingpoints;theseareconcentratedviadistillation.Moldsarealsofungi.They’rebiologicallysimilartoyeastsinsomeways,but
theygrowinmulticellularclumps.Moldsplayrolesinthecreationsomekindsofcheeses:inthebodiesofbluecheesesandafewothersandintherindsofmostsoftcheeses.Moldsalsoplayrolesindry-curedmeatsandinsomegrainandlegumepreservessuchasmiso,sake,andsoysauce.Somefermentsrelyonacombinationofbacteriaandyeast,oftenreferredto
asaSCOBY,whichisanacronymforSymbioticCommunity(orCulture)ofBacteriaandYeast.(Sometimesthetermcolonyisusedratherthancommunity;colonyisn’tquiteaccurateinthiscontextbecauseitgenerallyimpliesahomogeneouscollection,andaSCOBYbydefinitioncontainsvariety.)SCOBYisalsooftenusedtorefertoavisiblemanifestationofthemicrobes—
inthecaseofkombucha,acellulosicmatthatfloatsontopofthebrew.(VinegarhasasimilarSCOBYthat’sgenerallycalledmotherofvinegar.Itmayormay
notfloatontop.)SCOBYasthevisiblepartofthefermentiscommonusage,butitcanmisleadnewcomersintothinkingthatallthemicrobesliveinthemat,whichisn’tthecase.SomeSCOBYferments,suchaskefir,don’thaveamatatall,buthavesmallglobulesinstead.
STARTERSANDHOWTOGETTHEMAstarterissomethingthatyouaddtoafermentablesubstratetoencourageittofermentinaparticularway.Somefermentationprojectsdon’trequirestartersatall,consistentlyfermentingthewayyouwantthemtoifthetemperature,surfacearea,salt,availabilityofoxygen,andsoonareapproximatelyright.Otherfermentsrequireastarter.Andyetotherscanbedonewithorwithoutastarter.Givenachoice,itismoreexcitingtofermentwithoutastarter,orwitha
homemadestarter,becausetheresultscanbepleasantlysurprising.Buttheycanalsobeunpleasantlysurprising,soifyouaredependingonyourferment,needingtomeetadeadlineorusingitforeconomicgain,forinstance,youmaywanttotaketherouteoflessuncertaintybyusingastarter.
SCOBYSTARTERSThemostcommonSCOBYfermentsarekombucha(anditscousinjun),vinegar,milkkefir(búlgaros),andwaterkefir(tíbicos).InordertomakeaSCOBYferment,inmostcases,youneedastarter,which
usuallyconsistsofthephysicalmanifestationoftheSCOBYplussomeofthefermentedliquid.Thesedays,it’seasytobuyanyofthesestartersontheInternet.Thebest
placetofindthemmaychangefromtimetotime;checkthe“Resources”sectionofourwebsitewww.KombuchaKefirandBeyond.comforup-to-daterecommendations.Ifyou’dliketogetoneforfree,askyourfriends!Orlookatthevarious
culturesharingsitesandgroupsontheInternetthatcanhelpyoufinddonors.Again,checkthe“Resources”sectionofourwebsiteforgoodrecommendations.VinegarisoneSCOBYfermentforwhichyoudon’tneedastarter.
Acetobacter,thebacteriathatarekeytomakingvinegar,arewidespread,andtheyaregoodatfindingopenvesselsofwine,cider,tepache,andotheralcoholfermentsandturningthemintovinegar.So,youcanmakevinegarwithoutgettingastarter;itwilldofinewithoutone.Youmayevenfindyourselfhavingmadevinegarbyaccident!Generally,allyouneedtodoisleaveanalcoholfermentexposedtotheair—ideallycoveredwithaclothtokeepbugsout.(Some
vinegarrecipesrecommendcourtingfliestocapturetheAcetobacterthattheycarryandthenstrainingoutthedeadflieslater,butthisisquiteunnecessary!)
BACTERIALSTARTERSInmostcasesinthisbook,wemakeourownbacterialstarters(e.g.,GingerBug)orelsewedonotusestartersatall(e.g.,BeetKvass).Onecaseinwhichastarterisnecessaryisyogurt.Fortunately,youcanstart
yogurtwithasmallportionofactiveculture,high-qualityplainyogurt!Thatmeansthatayogurtstarterisavailableinmostgrocerystoresandevensomeconveniencestores.Vegetablefermentationstartersarenotgenerallynecessaryforfermentssuch
asBeetKvassandsauerkraut.Butifweareattemptingtofermentvegetablesunderlessthanidealconditions,suchasatatemperatureabove85°F(30°C)orwithlessthantheidealamountofsalt,wemaychoosetouseabacterialstarter.Forsourcesofvegetablefermentationstarters,again,checkthe“Resources”sectionofourwebsite,orsimplysearchonlinefor“vegetablestarterculture.”
YEASTSTARTERSSomeyeastprojects,suchastepache,donotrequireyeaststarters.Others,includingwineandcider,willturnoutmoreconsistentlywhenyeaststartersareused.Theresultwithastartercanbemorepredictable,althoughwhileavoidingthefailures,youmaymissoutontheoccasionalfantasticsurprise.YeaststarterscanbeboughtathomebrewstoresorontheInternet.Theycan
alsobecapturedbyexposingsweetliquidstoairandstirringthemalot,andfromthesurfaceoffresh,unsprayedfruitsuchasapples,grapes,andberries.Onceyouhavecreatedabubblystarterthisway,youcanaddittoyourbiggerbatchoffermentableliquid.Thisisanin-betweenstrategy,notaspredictableasusingyeastfromanenvelope,butlessuncertainthanstartingabigbatchwithoutastarteratall.
FERMENTATION,AIR,ANDBUBBLESFermentationscaneitherbeperformedwithaccesstoambientair(ideallycoveredwithaclothoracoffeefiltertokeepinsectsout!)orwithnoaccesstoambientair(eithercompletelysealedorwithanairlockorone-wayvalveofsomesortallowinganoutflowofgasbutnobackflow).IfyouwantAcetobactertofindyourdrink,yourdrinkwillneedtobeopento
theair.Ifyouarecountingonhavingwildyeastfindyourdrink,it’sthesame
story.(Inthesecases,youwillneedafinecloth,coffeefilter,orpapertoweltokeepanybugsout.)Conversely,whenyoudon'twantyourdrinktobecomemoresour,youwillwanttocutoffaccesstoairtokeepAcetobacterundercontrol.Someprojectsgothroughphasesinwhichyouwilldoeachofthesethingsinturn.Andinfact,kombuchaseemstodobothonitsown;atsomepointduringtheprocess,thekombuchaSCOBYsettlesatthetopofthedrinkandformsaprettygoodseal.Theothersideoftheairissueisthequestionofcarbonation.Whilethingsare
fermenting,theygeneratesomeamountofcarbondioxidegas.Thisgascanbeharnessedtomakeyourbeveragebubbly.Tocapturebubbles,sealacontainertightlywhilefermentationisactivelyhappening.Youcanaccomplishthisbysealingitsoriginalfermentingvesselorbymovingthedrinktonewvessels,perhapssmaller,thatcanbeeasilysealed.
Carbonationescapesonceabottleisopen,soifyouareaimingforcarbonation,youmaywanttobottledirectlyintoserving-sizecontainers(bottlesorjars).Andonceyourdrinkhasachievedthedesiredlevelofcarbonation,youmaywanttoputitintherefrigerator.Thisdoestwothings.First,itgreatlyslows(butdoesnotstop)theongoingfermentation,renderingyourdrinkmorestable.Second,itallowsmoreofthegastodissolveintheliquidbecausecarbondioxide,likemostgasses,dissolvesbetterinliquidsatlowertemperatures—thismakesyourdrinkmorebubblyandalsomakesitevenmorestable.Whenbottling,youhavetheoptiontoaddsomemoresugar,eitherintheform
ofactualsugarorintheformoffruitordriedfruit.Whenyousealthebottle,the
sugarcontinuestoferment.Thisin-bottlefermentationiscalledsecondaryfermentation,or2fforshort.Somecaremustbetakenwhenfermentingthingsinsealedcontainers.It’s
importanttouseonlybottlesthathavebeendesignedwithcarbonationandpressureinmind.Thismeansthatbeerbottles,kombuchabottles,champagnebottles,andevenplasticsodabottlesarefine,butwinebottlesmaynotbe.Evenwhentakingtheseprecautions,bottlescanoccasionallyexplode.You
don’twantglassbottlesexploding;it’smessyandpotentiallydangerous.Thereareacoupleofthingsthatyoucandotoavoidexplosions:
■Beconservativeandmakechangesgradually.It’shardtomakesweepingstatementsabouthowmuchsugartoaddduring2fofkombucha.Butyoumaywanttostartwith4raisinsorfrozenblueberriesperbottleandseehowthatgoes.Ifthat’snotenough,try6.Again,it’shardtogivehard-and-strictformulaswithsomanyvariables—variablessuchasambienttemperature,residualsugarinyourkombucha,andthestrengthofyourkombuchaculture.
■Useoneplasticbottlealongwithanyglassbottlesyouareusing.Chooseaplasticbottlethatisasimilarsizetotheglassbottlesandfillitsimilarlyfull.Aspressurebuildsup,youcantesttheplasticbottlebysqueezingit.Whenitbecomeshardlikeasodabottle,youprobablyhaveagoodamountofcarbonation,anditmaybetimetoputallyourbottlesintherefrigerator(ordrinkthem!).
◁GINGERBUGAgingerbugisagreat,easy-to-makestarterforabacterial/sourfermentofalmostanything
containingsugar.Sugaryliquidslefttotheirowndevicesoftengoinayeast/alcoholdirection,but
thebugcanhelpsteerthemawayfromthis.Itworksparticularlywellincoconutwater.
Sowhyagingerbug?Whynotacelerybugorpotatobug?Tofindout,Raquelaskedherfriend
ErnestoFato,achemicalengineerfromthebeautifulstateofOaxaca,Mexico,wholivesandworksin
Monterreyinthefoodandbeverageindustry.HeisRaquel’shelpinghandandbrains,especially
whensomethingdoesn’tquiteturnoutthewaysheexpectsinherkitchenlab.Ernesto’sconclusion
wasthatgoodqualityrawgingerprovidesanexcellentsubstrateforthegrowthoflacticacid
bacteria,whileatthesametimeinhibitingthegrowthofotherbacteria.GraciasErnesto!
YIELD:1PINT(500ML)ACTIVEGINGERBUG
STARTERINGREDIENTS
2cups(500ml)filteredwater
2tablespoons(20g)gratedraworganicginger
2tablespoons(30g)organicgranulatedsugar
FEEDINGINGREDIENTSAtleast4tablespoons(30g)raworganicginger
Aleast4tablespoons(50g)sugar,plusmoretomaintain
StirthestarteringredientsinaMasonjaruntilthesugarisdissolved.Coverthejarwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Tofeedthebug:Eachsubsequentday,grate1tablespoon(10g)ofginger,uncoverthejar,add1tablespoon(15g)ofsugarandthefreshlygratedginger,stirvigorously,andcoverthejarasbefore.Afteraboutaweek,giveortakedependingontemperature,theliquidwillbebubbly.Atthispoint,yourgingerbugisaliveandreadyforaction.
Oncethebugiswellestablished,it’snolongernecessarytoaddmoreginger.Continuefeedingitatablespoon(15g)ofsugarandstirringeverydayortwo.Itshouldremainfizzy.Afterawhile,youwilldevelopafeelingforhowyourfeedingaffectshowbubblyitis.Beforeusingitinarecipe,feeditmorethan
usualtogetitasbubblyaspossible.Ifatsomepointitisnolongerfizzy,thismeansthatitisdeadandwillnolongerworkasastarter.Inthiscase,makeanewbatch.
Ifyouwon’tbeabletofeeditforafewdaysorlonger,storeitintherefrigerator,stillcoveredwithclothorpaper.Whenyouarereadytoreviveit,leaveitoutatroomtemperatureandresumefeedingitdaily.Itmaytakeafewdaysbeforeitrecoversfully.Ifitdoesn’t,startanewbatch.
GINGERBUGTIPS&TRICKS
Ifarecipecallsforgingerbugtobeusedasastarter,onlytheliquidisnecessary.Placeapieceoftapeontheoutsideofthejartomarkthelevelofliquid.Pourouthowevermuchyouneed,usingastrainerifnecessary.Refillthejartothetapelinewithfilteredwater.
Avoidstoringyourgingerbugnearotheropencontainerculturessuchaskombucha—theycancross-contaminate,whichleadstoproblems.
Foradifferentflavor—andprobablysomedifferentmicrobes—turmericandgalangalcanbeusedinplaceofsomeoralltheginger.
YOGURTInmanyplaces,it’spossibletobuyunsweetened,full-fatyogurtmadefromhigh-qualitymilk.But
thishasn’talwaysbeenthecase,andit’sstillnoteverywhere.Ifyoucangetgoodmilkbutcan’tget
goodyogurt,youcanmaketheyogurtyourself.
YIELD:4SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR225G,EACH)
1tablespoon(15ml)starter
1quart(1L)milk
Oneoftheadvantagesofmakingityourselfisthatyougettodecidewhatgoesinit.Manyyogurts,evenfrom“natural”brands,containthingsotherthanmilkandcultures.Anotheradvantageiscostsavings.It’shardtogeneralizeaboutthis,butitshouldalmostalwaysbecheapertobuyagallon(4L)ofmilkthanfourquarts(4kg)ofyogurt.Yetanotheradvantageisthathomemadeyogurtcanbemadetocontainverylittlelactose,byfermentingitforlongerthanusual.(Intheory,store-boughtyogurtcouldbefermentedmoreafterpurchase,too.)
Unhomogenizedmilkisbestformakingyogurt,ifyoucanfindit.Somebrandsofyogurttodayareunhomogenized,andyoucanfindunhomogenizedmilkatspecialtystores.Butifyoucan’tmanageunhomogenized,it’sokay.Youcaneasilymakeyourownyogurtathome.Youdon’tevenneedafancyyogurtmaker—you’llbegoodtogoifyouhavearegular1-quart(1L)thermosandacandythermometerorevenjustanovenwithalightbulbandsomeMasonjars.Youwill,however,needaculturestarter,whichcanbeanyofthefollowing:■Wheyfromyogurt■Apreviousbatchofyourownyogurt■High-quality,plainstore-boughtyogurt,oryogurtstarter(see“Resources”)■Crèmefraîche
Placethestarterina1-quart(1L)thermos.Heatthemilkinalargestainlesssteelpotfittedwithacandythermometer
overmediumheatuntilitreaches180°F(82°C),butnottoomuchhotter.Stirconstantlywithawoodenspoontopreventboilinghotspotsandscorchingatthebottomofthepan.Onceitreaches180°F(82°C),youcanturntheheatoffandwaitforittocool.Butifyouholditat180°F(82°C)forawhile,itwillbe
thickerandcreamier.Ifyouaregame,youcanholdtheresultingyogurthereforupto20or30minutes,stirringconstantly.
Removethepotfromtheheatandlettheyogurtcooltoabout110°F(43°C).Ifyou’reimpatient,restthepotinanicebath.Stirringwillalsohelpitcool,aswillmovingitintoacoldglassorceramiccontainer.
Oncetheyogurtreaches110°F(43°C)orbelow,pouritintothethermoswiththestarter,closethelid,andshake.Donotletitgettoofarbelow110°F(43°C)becausethatisthetemperatureatwhichtheseculturesthrive.
Writethedateandtimeofpreparationontheoutsideofthethermos.Thelongertheyogurtferments,thesoureritwillbeandthelesslactoseitwillcontain.Ifyouwantyouryogurttobepracticallylactose-free,letitfermentfor24hours.Amoretypicallengthoftimeis8to12hours.
Transfertheyogurtfromthethermostoaheat-conductivecontainerandrefrigerateit.
OTHEREQUIPMENTOPTIONS
Therearemanyotherwaystokeepyogurtattherighttemperaturewhileitferments.Oneparticularlyconvenientoptionistoplaceitinanovenwiththeovenlighton.Inmanyovens,thiswillholditattherighttemperature.Ifyouhaveanoventhermometer,youcantestyouroven:Leavethelightonforawhileandthencheckthetemperature—ifit’sbetween95°F(35°C)and110°F(43°C),youareallset.Followthedirectionsabove,butusea1quart(1L)Masonjarinsteadofathermosandafterclosingthelidandshaking,putitintheovenwiththeovenlighton.
Youcanalsouseacooler.Addenough110°F(43°C)watertothecoolertopartiallysubmergethejar.AddtheMasonjarholdingtheyogurt.Closethecoolerandopenit12to24hourslater.Theyogurtshouldbeset.
MILKKEFIRLikelyoriginatingintheCaucasusMountains,milkkefirgrains(búlgarosdelecheinSpanish)area
SCOBYculturethatfermentsmilk.
Tomakemilkkefir,youmustacquireatablespoon(15g)orsoofthesemilkkefirgrains,whichlook
likecottagecheeseorsmallcauliflowerflorets.(See“Resources”forhowtogetastarter.)Ifyoubuy
dehydratedgrains,followtheinstructionsonthepackagetorehydratethem.Eitherway,you’llneed
alargeglassorceramicjar—Masonjarsareideal.Beawarethatyouwillneedaninchortwo(2.5to
5cm)ofheadroominthejarabovethefermentingmilkbecausekefirneedsairwhileit’sfermenting.
Ifthere’sanyquestionaboutwhatsizejartouse,golargerratherthansmaller.
YIELD:2SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
1tablespoon(15g)dairykefirgrains
2cups(500ml)wholedairymilk,raworpasteurized
Themilkkefirculture,liketheyogurtculture,feedsonlactose,soitwon’tworkwithlactose-freemilk.Freshrawmilkisthebestbecauseitcontainslotsofbeneficialbacteriaandenzymesofitsownandwillmakeamorebiologically-diversekefir.Makesurethatit’snomorethanadayold;otherwise,theenzymesandmicrobesthatnaturallyoccurandmultiplyinrawmilkcanstarttodominatethekefirmicrobesandsendthingsinanunexpecteddirection,resultinginfunky-tastingkefirandpossiblyabiologicaldriftinthekefirgrains,makingthemlesseffectiveinthefuture.Regularpasteurizedmilkworksfine,too,orhigh-pressureprocessedmilkifthat’savailablewhereyouare,butthesameruleapplies:thefresherthemilk,thebetter.
Kefirfermentsbestatroomtemperatureorwarmroomtemperature.Thismakesitparticularlyconvenientforpeoplewholiveinrooms!Infact,it’seveneasierandmoreconvenienttomakethanyogurtbecauseitdoesn’trequireelevatedtemperature,nordoesitrequirethemilktobeheatedaheadoftime.
Also,becausekefirculturestendtobe“wilder”thanyogurtcultures,inthesensethattheycontainmoreunknownstrainsofmicrobes,it’shardertogeneralizeaboutthingssuchasstarterratios,idealtemperatures,andtimes.Forthisreason,ifyouwanttogetconsistentresults,youmayneedtokeeptrackoftheseparametersforyourselfinanotebookoratleastsettleintoaconsistentroutineandbeconsciousaboutvaryingit.Forinstance,youcanputapieceof
tapeonthesideofyourkefirfermentingjarandalwaysfillitwithmilktothetopofthetape.
Ifkefirislefttofermentforlongenough,itwillseparate.Youwillseecurdsandwhey.Thiskefirwillbeverysour,andmaybepastitsprimefordrinking,butit'sstillfineforsmoothies,saladdressings,andsoon.
Kefirprobablycontainsagreatervarietyofmicrobesthanyogurt.Thismeansthatitmaybe“moreprobiotic”thanyogurt,althoughaswithmanymattersoffermentation,it’shardtogeneralizewithanycertainty.
Placethekefirgrainsinaquart(1L)Masonjarandpourthemilkoverthem.Useajarlargeenoughtoleaveatleastaninch(2.5cm)ofspaceatthetop;ifyou’rescalinguptherecipe,thenscaleupthejar.Stirvigorouslywithawoodenorplasticspoonifnecessarytogetthingsmixedwell.Sealwithanairtightlid,orifyoudon’thaveanyotherSCOBYbrewsintheroom,coverthetopwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecurewitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Agitatethemilkmixture.Writethebrewingdateandtimeonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
FLAVORYOURMILKKEFIR
Ifyou’dlikesomevariety,addflavorssuchasvanillaorcinnamontoyourkefir,totaste,rightwhenyouaredrinkingit,asyouwouldwhenflavoringyourcoffee.
Youcanalsoaddfruitforasecondaryfermentationatroomtemperaturewithasealedlid.Foreverycup(250ml)ofkefir,try1/2cup(100g)fruit.Addthefruittothekefirandthenletitsitforuptoadayatroomtemperature.Onceit’sready,strain,ifyoulike,andthenrefrigerate.
Letthekefirsitatroomtemperaturefor12to24hours.Thefirstfewtimesyoumakeit,youmaywanttotasteittodecidewhenit’sdone.Itshouldbethick,sour,somewhatyeasty,andabitwild,possiblywithsomebarnyardfunkiness!
Pourthekefirthroughaplasticornylonstrainerintoabowlorjar.Strainingmilkkefircanbeconfusingandstressfulatfirstbecausetheacidityofthekefircancausethemilktocurdleand/orproteinstocoagulatemoreandmoreasitferments.Ifyou’rehavingtroubledistinguishingkefirgrainsfromcoagulatedmilk,don’thesitatetouseyour(clean!)fingerstopickthroughtheglobs,shakethestrainer,orstirthegrainsinthestrainergentlywithawoodenorplasticspoon.Kefirgrainswillbefirmtothetouch,whiletheotherthingswillnotresistatallwhenyousqueezethem.Ifnecessary,youcanpickoutthekefirgrainswithyourfingersand/orpushthecurdledmilkglobsthroughthestrainer.
Metalstrainersandspoonsarenotrecommendedinanyofthisbecausetheycancutthegrains,makingithardertodistinguishthegrainsfromthekefiritself.
Yourkefirisready!Serveitnow,orifyoupreferitcoldorwanttosaveitforlater,coveritandrefrigerateit.
Transferthekefirgrainsfromthestrainertoanotherglassorceramicjarandstartanewbatchwiththemimmediately,ifpossible.Ifyou’renotgoingtouseyourgrainsrightaway,storetheminfreshmilkintherefrigerator,covered,wheretheywillbeokayforweeks.
COCONUTWATER,COCONUTMILK,FRUITJUICE,ANDNUTMILKFERMENTS
Milkkefirgrainscanbeusedtoculturecoconutwaterorcoconutmilk,fruitjuices,andnutmilks.Ifyouwanttodothis,werecommendthatyoualternatebatcheswithmilkbecausedairykefirgrainsneedlactoseonaregularbasistoremainhealthy,andlactoseisfoundonlyindairymilk.Wewouldevensuggesttwoorthreebatchesofdairymilkperbatchofotherliquids.
Freshisbetterthancannedorboxed.Juicesareeasytomakewhenyoucangetseasonalfruitsfromyourlocalfarmer’smarket.
Justsubstitute2cups(500ml)coconutwater,coconutmilk,fruitjuice,ornutmilkforthedairymilkinthisrecipeandrinsethedairykefirgrainswellwithfilteredwaterbeforebeginning.Thenproceedasyouwouldwithdairymilk.
WHEYLittleMissMuffet•Satonatuffet•Eatinghercurdsandwhey
SogoestheoldEnglishnurseryrhyme.Buthaveyoueverwonderedaboutcurdsandwhey?Whatare
they?Thesedays,manyofushavenodirectexperiencewiththem.Undercertaincircumstances,
liquiddairyproductswillseparateintoamoresolidpart,thecurds,andamoreliquidpart,thewhey.
Conditionsleadingtothisseparationincludeanincreaseinacidity,theadditionofenzymes,and
sometimesotherfactors,suchasbeingstrainedthroughcheesecloth.
YIELD:VARIABLE;1QUART(1L)OFYOGURTMAYYIELD1PINT(500ML)OFWHEYAND1PINT(500G)OFSTRAINEDYOGURT
Anyamountplain,full-fat,unsweetenedyogurtwithlivecultures
Thewheyportioncontainsagoodamountofwaterandsomewheyprotein;andifitcomesfromraworfermenteddairy,italsocontainslacticacid–producingmicrobes.Thesemicrobescanbeusedforstartingnewferments.Henceourinterestinwhey!
Notethatforwheytobe“alive,”itmustbemadefromraworfermenteddairy.Cheesemakingalsogenerateswheyasaby-product,butmostcheesemakinginvolvesheatingmilkbeyond117°F(47°C),atwhichtemperaturethemicrobesstartdyingoff;this“cooked”wheycannotreliablybeusedasafermentationstarter.
Wheycanbeusedasastarterforfermentingvegetables,makingdrinks,ormakingotherfermenteddairyproducts.Insomecases,suchaswhenfermentingvegetables,addingwheyisoptional—somepeopledoitandothersdon’t.Insomeothercases,suchaswhenmakingyogurt,youneedastarter,andwheyfromyogurtisagoodone.
Therearelotsofwaystoobtainwhey.Twooftheeasiestare(1)leavingrawmilkoutatroomtemperatureforbetweenadayandaweek,atwhichpointitwillsourandseparateonitsown,and(2)lettingyourmilkkefirfermentuntilitseparatesonitsown,whichmaytakeonlyadayorso.
Manyofusdon’thaveeasy,immediateaccesstorawmilkortomilkkefir.Inthiscase,theeasiestwaytogetwheyisbystrainingdairyyogurt.Todoso,you’llneedsomethingtostrainitwith—acleannutmilkbag,akerchief,oralargefine-meshcloth—andsomethingtostrainitinto,suchasalargemixing
bowlorpitcher.DavidAshersuggeststhekerchiefinhisbook,TheArtofNaturalCheesemaking.NourishingTraditionsauthorSallyFallonsaysthatwheycankeepforupto6
monthsintherefrigerator.You’llknowifitgoesbadbecausethingswillstartgrowingonthesurfaceofit!
Placetheyogurtinanutmilkbagorafine-meshclothinsuchawaythatyoucantieitatthetop.
Hangtheyogurt-filledfabricoveralargecontainertocatchthedrips:Tieittoawoodenspoonlaidacrossthetopofthecontainer,acabinethandle,orafixtureofsomesort.Youcanevenplacetheclothontopofastrainer.Dothisinaplacewheretheyogurtwon’tbedisturbedforawhile.Donotsqueezeit!
Thewateryliquidthatdripsintothecontaineriswhey.Theyogurtthatremainsintheclothisstrainedyogurt,Greekyogurt,yogurtcheese,oryogurtcreamcheese,dependingonwhatyouwanttocallitandhowlongyoustrainitfor.Thelongeritstrains,thefirmeritgets.
PourthewheyintoaMasonjar.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.Covertightlyandrefrigerate.
◁VINEGARWinesandotheralcohol-fermentedbeveragesturnintovinegarovertimewhenexposedtooxygen.
Thismeansthatvinegariseasytomake.Sometimeswemakeitwithoutevenmeaningto!Bottle
yourfinishedvinegarinrecycledwineorvinegarbottlesorinMasonjars—vinegarsarenotfizzy,so
thereisnoexplosionrisk.Andmakingyoursecondbatchofvinegarcangoquickerifyouusesome
ofyourfirstbatchasastarter;oryoucanuseastore-boughtrawvinegarinsteadasastarterifyou
like.
YIELD:VARIABLE
Wineorotheralcohol-containingfermentedbeverage
1/4cup(60ml)ofexistingrawvinegarperquart(liter)ofwine(optional)
Pourthewineintoalargeopenglassorceramicvessel.Tospeeduptheprocess,add1/4cup(60ml)rawvinegar(ifusing).Coverthevesselwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.
Letitsitatroomtemperatureforacoupleofweekstoacoupleofmonths.Afterseveralweeks,youmayseeamatformingontop.Thatisthevinegarmother.
Tastethevinegarfromtimetotime.Ifitstilltasteslikewine(orwhateveritstartedas),letitsitafewmoreweeks.Ifyoulikethetaste,strainandbottleit.Capandstoreatroomtemperature.
NOTE:Homemadevinegarmadewiththisrecipeisgreatformostculinarypurposes.Butifyouneedyourvinegarforcanningorforanyotherapplicationwherethereischemistryinvolved,thenitissafertouseastore-boughtvinegar,sincethesearestandardizedtoparticularlevelsofacidity.
◁WATERKEFIR(TÍBICOS)Waterkefirisaquickferment,onlyadayortwo,involvingbothbacteriaandyeast.Itisdairyfree,
caffeinefree,andagreatalternativetosodas.It’sfizzierthankombucha,easierandquickertomake,
andlesschallengingflavor-wise.Forthesereasons,itcanbeagreatfirstfermenteddrink,evenfor
skeptics.
YIELD:4SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
1/4cup(50g)sugar,suchaspiloncillo,canesugar,orturbinado
1quart(1L)filteredwater
2tablespoons(30g)hydratedwaterkefirgrains
Rinsedandboiledshellof1egg,or4raisins,or1tablespoon(15g)aguamieldemagueyforitsexcellentmineralcontent(optional)
1/4cup(50g)choppedfruitorfrozenberriesforsecondfermentation(optional)
WaterkefirgrainsareaSCOBYthatdigestssugarandcreatesacids.TheydonotrequireteaasdokombuchaandJun,onlysugar.Buttokeepyourkefirgrainshappyandgrowing,itisbesttousedarkersugarratherthanplainwhitesugar.Piloncillo(alsoknownaspanelaorrapadura)isagreatoptionbecauseithasahighermineralcontent,whichhelpsthegrainsreproduce.Someothergoodoptionsincluderawsugar,brownsugar,molasses,andaguamieldemaguey.Anotherwaytogetthenecessarymineralsistoincludesomeraisinsorotherdriedfruit.Yetanotherwayistoincludesomeboiled,crushedeggshells.
Waterkefirgrainscanbeboughtorgiventoyouforfree.Buyingthemonlineisthemoststraightforward.Therearealsoonlinecommunitiesandpageswhereyoucantradecultureswithotheraficionados.(See“Resources”.)Thegrainsriskstarvationifleftformorethanafewdayswithnosugar,soit’simportanttomakenewbatchesonaregularschedule.Fortunately,onceyoutasteyourwaterkefir,you’llwanttomakeitallthetime!
Dissolvethesugarinahalfgallon(2L)Masonjarcontaining1quart(1L)ofwater.Ortospeedtheprocess,dissolvethesugarinthejarwith1cup(250ml)hotwaterandthenadd3cups(750ml)coldwatertogettoatotalof1quart(1L).Makesurethattheresultingsugar-watermixtureisbodytemperature(98°For37°C)orlower.
Addthekefirgrainsandtheeggshell,raisins,oraguamieldemaguey(ifusing)andthencoverwithalid.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeontheoutsideofthejar.
Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor24to48hoursuntilyouseebubblingactivity.
AswithMilkKefir,strainthekefirgrainswithaplasticornylonstrainerandstartanewbatchimmediately,ifpossible.
Refrigeratethefermentedwaterkefirliquidinacoveredjaruntilreadytoserve.
Foradifferentflavor,performasecondfermentation:Inahalfgallon(2L)Masonjar,addsomechoppedfruittothebrewedwaterkefir.Closethelid.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeontheoutsideofthejar.
Letitsitatroomtemperatureforanother24to48hours,atwhichtimeitwillbereadytodrinkortorefrigerate.
Becarefulwhenopeningthekefir;ithasmorefizzthankombuchaandcanexplode.It’sagoodideatorefrigeratethebottleoneortwohoursbeforeopeningit.Thiswilllessentheexplosionpotential.Onceopened,strainthefruit,ifdesired,andserve.
CHAPTERSEVEN
KOMBUCHAANDJUNKOMBUCHA,METHOD1:BATCH
KOMBUCHA,METHOD2:CONTINUOUS-BREW
SCOBYFROMSTORE-BOUGHTKOMBUCHA
FLAVOREDKOMBUCHA:SECONDFERMENTATION(2F)
COFFEEKOMBUCHA
JUN
Kombuchaisasweetandsourfermentedteadrinkand
healthtonicthatprobablyoriginatedinCentralAsia
centuriesago.Itistheproductofabacteria-and-yeast
fermentationwithabaseofsweetenedtea.Today,
kombuchaisgenerallymadewithrefinedcanesugar
(tablesugarorgranulatedsugar),althoughinthepastit
wouldhavebeenmadewithwhateversweetenerwasavailable.Mostofthesugarintroducedwhile
makingkombuchaismetabolizedbythemicrobesduringfermentation.
Itispossiblethat,likemanyfermentedfoods,kombuchawasfirstcreatedbyaccident.It’seasytoimaginepeoplemakingsweetenedtea,drinkingmostofit,andpouringtheleftoverintoavat—andthendiscoveringthatthecontentsofthevathadanintriguingsmell.Perhapssomebravesoultastedit,orperhapssomeonemistookitforsourwinevinegar.Perhapssomeonewhowasalreadymakingfruitvinegardecidedtotryaddingsomesweetteatoit,andthentheystartedusingmoreteaandlessfruit.Inanycase,theyeastsandbacteriathatmakeupthekombuchaculturelikelyfoundtheirhomeserendipitously.Justwhatexactlyarethoseyeastsandbacteria?Itdepends.Likeyogurt,
cheese,andmanyotherfermentedfoods,kombuchaisnottheproductofonespecific,fixed,globallyconstantmenagerieofmicrobes,inpreciseratios—it’sadescriptivelabelfittingacategoryoffoodswithsimilarcharacteristics.Juniskombucha’sshycousin,madewithnotjustanysweetenerbutwith
honeyspecifically.Infact,junmaypredatesugarcane-basedkombucha;honey
waswidespreadbeforesugarcanewas.Thedistinctionbetweenkombuchaandjunisslightlyarbitrary,askombuchacanbemadewithsweetenersorcombinationsofsweetenersbeyondjustcanesugar.Ifyoumakeitwithhalfsugarandhalfhoney,isitkombuchaorjun?Someofthenotabledifferencesbetweenkombuchaandjunarisebecause
kombuchaisbrewedfromadisaccharide,andjunisbrewedfromamonosaccharide.(Seechapter3.)Thismeansthat(a)jungenerallybrewsmorequicklythankombuchaand(b)junmaybeabetterchoiceforpeoplefollowingtheGAPSdietorforpeoplewithprofoundgutissues.Junalsoseemstobeabitmoretemperamentalwithrespecttobrewing.Kombuchaandjunhavebothspreadfarandwide,findinghomesamong
diversegroupsofhealth-consciouspeople.Considerthemanynamesinmanylanguagesthatkombuchahasreceivedovertheyears!
THEMANYNAMESOFKOMBUCHA
HannahCrum,“TheKombuchaMamma,”liststhemanynamesofKombucha:
•ChampagneofLife
•ChampignondeLongueVie
•Combucha
•TheDivineTsche
•EmbuyaOrientalis
•FungusJaponicus
•GoutJelly-fish
•Hongo
•IndianTeaFungus
•JapaneseTeaFungus
•Kambotscha
•Kargasoktea
•KombuchaFungus
•Kouchakinoko
•Kwassan
•ManchuFungus
•ManchurianMushroom
•ManchurianTea
•MiracleFungus
•Mo-Gu
•MotherofVinegar
•MushroomofCharity
•Olinka
•PinchiaFermentans
•TheRemedyofImmortality
•RussianJelly-fish
•RussianTea-vinegar
•Spumonto
•T’chaifromtheSea
•TheTeaBeast
•Teabeer
•TeaCider
•TeaKvass
•TeaMould
•TeaMushroom
•Teepilz
•TeekwassFungus
•Tschambucco
•VolgaFungus
THERISEOFKOMBUCHAKombuchasteppedintotheWesternmainstreaminthe1990swithacoupleofimportantmilestones.OnewasthepublicationofGüntherFrank’smonograph,Kombucha:HealthyBeverageandNaturalRemedyfromtheFarEast,ItsCorrectPreparationandUse,whichhassincebeentranslatedintomanylanguages.ItwasalsoaroundthistimethatsomeAmericanswithAIDSandcancertookinterestinkombuchaasapossibleimmune-systembooster.Ridingtherisingtideofkombucha,theNewYorkTimesin1994publisheda
playfullysensationalistarticlewithacontroversial-soundingtitle:“AMagicMushroomoraToxicFad?”Thearticlediscussedkombucha’sperceivedpotentialdanger,theculturegettingcontaminatedinsomeunspecifiedway,althoughitgavenoexamplesofcontaminationhappeningandmentionedthattheFDAhadnotreceivedanyreportsofadversereactionstoit.Thearticlemostlydismissedthesafetyconcerns,althoughitalsomostlydismissedthepotentialbenefits.Regardless,itbroughtmorepublicattentiontokombucha,documenteditspublicperception,andyieldedsomeexcellentquotes,including,“...Kombuchaisthepetrockofthe90’s—exceptthatitisalive.”Amongthosewhobecameinterestedinkombuchaforitsimmune-boosting
propertieswasaLosAngelesnativenamedGTDave,whosemotherLarainehadbeendiagnosedwithcancer.Shecreditskombuchaforhelpingherthroughcancer.Inherwords(asexplainedinhertestimonyonSynergydrinks.com),“Icreditkombuchaforkeepingmestrong,before,during,andaftermycancertreatment.”ThefamilynowrunsGT’sKombucha,theworld’sbiggestkombuchabusiness.In1999,earlyinitsexistence,GT’sKombuchabecameavailablefor
purchaseatWholeFoods,thehigh-endAmericannaturalgrocerychain.GT’sgrewquicklyfromthere.Today,thekombuchabusinessintheUnitedStatesaloneismanyhundredsof
millionsofdollarsperyear.Itsproducersevenhavetheirowntradeorganization,KombuchaBrewersInternational,foundedbykombuchaadvocatesandentrepreneursHannahCrumandAlexLaGory.It’ssafetosaythatkombuchaisnolongerexotic,obscure,orevenscarceinmuchoftheUnitedStates.Anditcontinuestogrowinpopularity.
WHYHOMEBREW?Butkombuchaisstillnotuniversal,especiallyoutsidetheUnitedStates.Becauseit’salive,fermentingdrink,itrequiresconsistentrefrigeration,makingitmoredifficulttotransportanddistributethansoda,itsnominalcompetitor.Inpoorercountries,therefrigeratedsupplychain,whichisresponsiblefordistributingrefrigeratedproductssuchasmilk,isnotasreliableasinrichcountries.Andinsomecountries—suchasSingapore—commercialsaleofkombuchahasbeenentirelybannedduetoperceivedsafetyconcerns.Fortunately,ifyouwanttodrinkkombuchabutareunabletofinditinstores,
youcanmakeityourself.(Orperhapsyoucanfindsomeonetosellittoyouprivately—there’sakombuchaundergroundontheInternet!)Youcanalsosavemoneymakingityourself.Buyingorganickombuchainthestorecancost$3to$5perpint(500ml)intheUnitedStates,sometimesmore;makingitcostsaboutatenthofthatusingcomparableingredients(organictea,organicsugar,andfilteredwater).Yetanotherreasontomakeityourselfisformulation.In2010,aUnitedStates
governmentagencytestedbottlesofkombuchatakenfromsupermarketshelvesandfoundthatsomeexceededthe0.5%ABV(alcoholbyvolume)allowedfor“non-alcoholic”beverages.(See“MeasuringAlcohol”forinformationonABV.)Thesebottlesmaynothavebeenproperlyrefrigeratedduringdistribution;improperhandlingcanincreasealcoholconcentration.TherearealsoquestionsabouttheaccuracyoftheoutdatedmethodsusedbythegovernmenttoassessABV.Regardless,kombuchamakerswereforcedtoeitherreformulatetheirbrewstopreventalcoholbuildup,orsellthemasalcoholicbeverages.GT’sKombuchahasdoneboth,offeringtwolinesofkombucha:Enlightened(reformulated)andClassic(original).Reformulatedkombuchacontainsadifferentbalanceofmicrobesfromkombucha’shistoricbalanceandhasahardtimeperpetuatingitselfwhenusedasastarter.Ifyouwantatraditionalpre-
twenty-firstcenturykombuchawithallthetraditionalprobioticbenefits,youmightconsiderbrewingyourownkombucha.Atleastonecompany,Dr.HopsKombuchaBeer,hastakenadifferenttack.
Theyarecreatingalineofhigh-alcoholkombuchas,between5%and10%ABV,withtheexpressintentofdistributingandsellingthemasalcoholicbeverages.Itseemslikeagoodstrategy;cocktailaficionadosarealwayslookingforsomethingnew.Forwhatit’sworth,it’snotclearthatallofkombucha’shealthbenefitspersistatthesealcohollevels.Someofthemicrobesmaynotsurvive,andsomeoftheenzymeswillprobablybedenatured,butthevitaminsandmineralsshoulddofine.
WHATYOU’LLNEEDYouneedthreethingstobrewkombucha:sugar;plainteafromtheteaplantCamelliasinensis;andsomeamountoflivekombucha,preferablyincludingapieceofSCOBYmat.
SUGARCanesugar,ideallyorganic,istheeasiestsugartouse.Beetsugarisnotrecommendedbecauseitisalmostalwaysgeneticallymodified.Formoreon
sugarsandsweeteners,seehere.
TEABlacktea,oolongtea,andgreenteaallcomefromtheplantCamelliasinensis,andtheyareyourbestoptionsforbrewingkombucha.Manyoftheotherthingscommonlycalled“tea”areflavoredteas,herbalinfusions,orsomethingelse.Minttea,chamomiletea,androoibos,forexample,areherbalinfusions.EarlGreyisablackteaflavoredwithoilofbergamot;oilsandbergamotcaninhibitfermentation,soEarlGreyisnotagoodchoiceformakingkombucha.CompoundsinCamelliasinensisarekeytothelongevityofthekombucha
culture.IfyouuseplainteafromCamelliasinensis,youshouldbeabletocontinueyourkombuchabrewingindefinitely,forasmanygenerationsasyoulike.Youmaybeabletomakekombuchawithotherflavorfulsweetenedliquidsforafewgenerations,butthesekombuchalineageswilllikelyfailsoonerorlater.EvencombinationsofCamelliasinensisandherbsmaynotworkinthelongrun.Ourbestadviceistobrewwithplainteaandthenaddanyotherflavoringswhilebottling,followedbysomemoretimeatroomtemperature.Thisway,yourbrewingremainsassimpleandreliableaspossible,andthechallengestoyourSCOBYareminimized.Thatsaid,whenyoudofindyourselfwithsurpluskombuchaSCOBYs,you
canattemptinterestingkombuchavariantsbybrewingwithrooibos,yerbamate,coffee,orsomethingelse.Someadventurershaveevenmadekombuchaoutofunlikelysoundingsweetbeveragessuchasorangesoda.Experimentationisgreat;justdon’tbesurprisedifthesekombuchalineagesdieout.Ifyouwanttostayinthegameinthelongterm,keeparoundsomeSCOBYsthathaveseenonlyteaandsugar.
AWORDONWATER
Usefilteredwaterwhenbrewingyourteaforkombuchabecausemunicipalwatersuppliesoftenhaveaddedchlorine,andchlorineisantimicrobial.(Formoreonwater,seehere.)Boilingtapwaterfor30minutesandallowingittocoolmayremovesometypesofchlorination;ifyouboilyourwaterbutfindyourselfhavingongoingproblemswithyourferments,tryusingawaterfilterorbottledwater.Onceyoustartinvestingmoretimeinfermentation,theexpenseofawaterfilteriseasytojustify—it’scheapfermentinginsurance,nottomentionawiseinvestmentinhealthierdrinkingwater!
SCOBYWhendiscussingkombucha,you’veprobablyencounteredthetermSCOBY,anacronymforSymbioticCommunityofBacteriaandYeast.Sowhatisit?Tobeprecise,akombuchaSCOBYisacollectionofkombuchamicrobesthatisusedtobrew,orferment,eachbatch.(TechnicallyyoucanhaveakefirSCOBYorvinegarSCOBYaswell,sincethesebothinvolveSCOBYstocultureorfermenttheliquid,butinpractice,thetermSCOBYisnotusedmuchbeyondkombuchaanditscousinjun.)ThemostvisibleaspectoftheSCOBY,alsocalledthemother,isanoff-whitematthatlookslikeaslimyFrisbeeoracalamaristeak.Thismatfloatsontopofafermentingbatchofkombucha,providingaconvenientresidenceforsomeofthebacteriaandyeast—likeacoralreefformicrobes.Thematisaby-productofthefermentationandisnotthebe-allandend-allofkombuchabrewing;itmayreceivemoreattentionthanitdeserves.Thatsaid,thegrowthofthematisexcellentevidenceoftheactivityandviabilityofabatchofkombucha.Andthegrowthofthematregulatestheliquid’saccesstooxygen;oxygenrestrictionwillfavoranaerobicfermentationandmayaffectthecompositionandprogressionofkombuchaincrucialways.We’llusethetermSCOBYtoreferspecificallytothemat.
◁KOMBUCHAMETHOD1:BATCHThebatchmethodisidealforfirst-timekombuchabrewers,asitallowsyoutobottleandrefresha
newbatchofkombuchaeachweek,inmoderateproportions(whichyoucanincreaseanddecreaseas
youseefit).It’salsothebestmethodforexperimentalkombuchas,suchasthatcoffeekombuchaor
rooiboskombuchayou’redyingtotry,wherethebrewmaynotpropagatebeyondafewgenerations.
Somepeoplepreferthebatchmethodregardless.
YIELD:1QUART(1L)
1quart(1L)filteredwater
1tablespoon(5g)loose-leaftea,or2teabags
1/4cup(50g)sugar1/4cup(60ml)maturekombuchaliquid1healthykombuchaSCOBY(maybesmall;seehereforinformationabouthowtogetone)Boil1pint(500ml)ofwaterinasmallpotoverhighheat.Removefromtheheat,addthetea,andletsteepforatleast5minutes.
Removethetealeavesorbags.Addthesugarandstirwithawoodenspoonuntildissolved.Addtheremaining1pint(500ml)ofroomtemperaturewater.
Oncethesweetenedteahascooledtobodytemperatureorbelow,transfertoalargeglassjarwithawidemouth,leavingatleast3inches(8cm)ofspaceontop.AddthekombuchaliquidandplacetheSCOBYontopoftheliquid(ifitsinks,that’sokay).Coverthejarwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Letitsitatwarmroomtemperature,between75°Fand85°F(24°Cand30°C),ifpractical.Howlongyourkombuchaneedstobrewdependsonambienttemperature.Itcantake5daysinwarmweatheror2to4weekswhenit’scold.(Therearewaystoacceleratebrewingundercolderconditionsbykeepingyourkombuchawarm.Generally,theyinvolveusingaheaterorinsulation.Ifyouhaveacoldstonecountertop,tryputtingamatunderyourbrewingvessel.)Duringthebrewing,anewSCOBYmayformontopofthejar,abovetheoldSCOBY.OnceareasonablythicknewSCOBYhasformedtocoverthetoppartoftheliquid,thekombuchaiswellonitswaytobeingready.Tasteit,usingacleanladle;itshouldbetart.Ifit’sstilltoosweet,waitanotherdayortwoandtasteitagain.
Somepeople,includingmanynewkombuchaenthusiasts,willpreferasweeter,milderkombucha.Longtimekombuchaconsumersusuallyfermentitlongerforastronger,moreacidictaste.Thereisadirectinverserelationbetweensugarcontent(sweetness)andacidcontent(sourness/strongflavor)because
sugaristransformedintoacidbyfermentation.Thelongerthefermentation,thesourerthebatch.
Oncethekombuchahasreachedthedesiredflavor,puttheSCOBYasidewithabitoftheliquid.Pourthefinishedkombuchathroughastrainerandbottleitinglassbottles,Masonjars,orBPA-freeplasticbottles.Capit,optionallyleaveitoutadayortwoifyouwanteffervescence,andrefrigerateit.(Seehereforalongerdiscussionofbottlingandshownhereforadiscussionofsecondaryfermentation.)Tomakeanewbatchofkombucha,repeatthesameprocessusingyourSCOBYandreservedliquidasastarter.Ifyoudon’twanttostartanewbatchimmediately,don’tstrainoffandbottletheliquid—justleaveitasis.Thekombuchawillbecomemoreandmorevinegary.Itcanbeleftthiswayforacoupleofmonths,dependingontemperatureandotherconditions—justmakesuretotopitoffwithsweetteaiftheliquidlevelgetstoolow.Whenyouarereadytostartanewbatchofkombucha,strainoffthekombuchavinegar,useitasyouwoulduseanyothervinegar,andstartfromthetop.(Usingvinegarykombuchaasthestarterforanewbatchisfine.)
KOMBUCHAMETHOD2:CONTINUOUS-BREWHere’stheexactcontinuous-brewkombuchasetupthatAlexhasbeenusingonandoffforsome
years.Ityieldsroughlyagallon(4L)ofdrinkablekombuchaperweekduringthesummerandfall
(evenincoldSanFrancisco!)andhalfthatduringthewinter.Ifthat’snotenoughforyourneeds,you
caneitherdouble(ortriple,orwhatever)alltheamountsandsizes,oryoucanrunmultiplebrewsin
parallel.Onedecidingfactormaybeweight.Willyouneedtomoveyourbrewingsetup?Glass
vesselsareheavy,asiskombucha(waterweighs8poundspergallon,or4kilogramsper4liters)!
Anotherdecidingfactormaybeyourwillingnesstospendmoneyonalargevessel—theycanbe
expensive.Youcanalsouseapre-configuredcontinuousbrewsetup;kombuchakamp.comandother
sitessellthese.(See“Resources”formoreinformation.)YIELD:8TO16OUNCES(250TO500ML)
KOMBUCHAPERDAY,DEPENDINGONAMBIENTTEMPERATURE
BASICEQUIPMENT
1twogallon(8L),open-toppedglasscookiejarwithabungholenearthebottom1polypropylene,BPA-free,acid-safe,made-in-USA(toensurethematerialmeetssafetystandards)spigottofitcookiejar(withgasketsasneeded)1halfgallon(2L)Masonjar
1cleankitchentowel
1largerubberband
ADDITIONALEQUIPMENT1long-handledwoodenspoon
1electronicscale(withatleast1gresolution)
Ifusingloosetea:1morehalfgallon(2L)Masonjar,andafine-meshstrainerBOTTLINGEQUIPMENT
1ormorehalfgallon(2L)carboys
ORatleasttwoquarts’(2L)worthofMasonjarsofanysize
ORatleast4oldcommercial16ounce(500ml)kombuchabottlesSTARTERINGREDIENTS
1healthykombuchaSCOBY
1to4quarts(1to4L)kombuchaliquid
REFRESHINGREDIENTS130grams(approximately2/3cup)granulatedsugar2quarts(2L)water
10gramsorganictea(approximately5teaspoons,or4teabags—2blackand2green)Theadvantagesofthecontinuous-brewmethodincludethefollowing:■Becauseyouareneverstartingfromscratch,thereisamoreconsistentlylowpHduringbrewing,decreasingthelikelihoodofcontamination.
■Thereislesspouringofstickyliquidsbackandforth.■Schedulingflexibilityissomewhatincreased.
■Youmayencounteramorediversemenagerieofmicrobesbecausemorephasesofthekombuchametabolismtakeplacesimultaneously.
Thedownsidesareasfollows:■Thereisasomewhatgreaterup-frontinvestmentinequipment.■Thereismoreofaneedforapermanentlocationfortheequipmentbecauseitmaybebiggerandheavier.
METHOD
Oncethingsareupandrunning,thegoalistomaintain6quarts(6L)ofliquidinthebrewingvessel,withaSCOBYontop.Fromtimetotime,wedrainoff2quarts(2L)offully-brewedkombuchaviathespigotandbottleit;thenweadd2quarts(2L)ofbrewedsweetteabacktothebrewingvesseltobringthetotalamountbackupto6quarts(6L).Thenweletthekombuchabrewforsomenumberofdays,untilit’sdone;thenwebottleanother2quarts(2L)offullybrewedkombuchaasbeforeandrepeat.Inawarmenvironment,theentirecyclemighttakeaslittleas3days;inacolderenvironment,itcouldtake8days.
TheSCOBYatthetopofthejarwillbecomethickerandgainlayersastimegoeson.Whenitgetsmorethan1to2inches(2.5to5cm)thick,peeloffseverallayersbyhandandgivethem,alongwithsomeliquid,toafriend,sothatyourfriendcanstartmakingkombucha!Orgivethemtoastrangerviacraigslist,reddit,orFacebook.Grindthemupandusethemasafacialmask,orfeedthemtoyourdogorgoat.FolkshaveevendriedthemandsewnthemintoSCOBY-leatherjackets!
INITIALSETUP
Ifyouhaveaglassjarwithaplasticormetallicspigot,removethespigotbecauseitisunlikelythatitissuitableforlong-termuseinanacidicenvironment.Installthenewspigotthatyouboughtseparatelyandensurethatithasagood,watertightsealbyputtingsomewaterinthejarandcheckingforleaks.It’sbesttosortthisoutnow,whenthere’snokombuchainthejar!
Pour6quarts(6L)waterintothejar.(Youcanusethehalfgallon[2L]Masonjarasameasuringcup.)Placeapieceofmaskingtapeonthesideofthejarsothatthetopofthetapeisatthelevelof6quarts(6L)ofwaterinthejar.Dumpoutthewater,butleavethetapeonthejar.
PlacetheSCOBYandinitialkombuchainthejar.Arrangeacleankitchentoweloverthetopofthevesselandsecureitwitharubberband.
Brewsweetteausingtheprocedurebelow,andaddittothejaruntilSCOBYandteareachthetapemark.
CONTINUOUSBREWING
Placetheteabagsorlooseteainahalfgallon[2L]Masonjar.Boil1quart(1L)ofwaterandpourintotheMasonjaroverthetea.Letsteepfor15minutes.Removetheteabags,orifyouareusingloosetea,pourtheliquidthroughastrainerintoanotherMasonjar.Stirthesugarintotheteawithawoodenspoonuntildissolved.Add1morequart(1L)ofroomtemperaturewater.
Atthispoint,thesweetenedteashouldnotbesohotthatitburnsyourfinger.Stickyour(clean!)indexfingerintothebrewed,sweetenedteaandleaveitthereforacountoften.Ifithurts,theteaistoohot;letitcoolandtryagainlater.Oncetheteaiscoolenoughforyourfinger,it’scoolenoughforthekombucha.
Removetherubberbandandthekitchentowelfromthetopofyourkombuchavessel.
Ifthekombuchaliquidinthejarisatorabovethelevelofthetape,giveitavigorousstirwiththewoodenspoontodistributethesedimentandyeastevenlyinthevessel.(Don’tworryifthisdisturbstheSCOBYfloatingatthetopoftheliquid.)Drainoffliquidviathespigotintoaglassuntiltheleveloftheliquidmatchesthetape.Drinkitorsaveitforbottling.Drainoffafurtherhalfgallon(2L)oftheliquidviathespigotintoyourbottlingcontainers.
PourtheteaintothebrewingvesselovertheSCOBY.Theleveloftheliquidshouldbeclosetothetape.Iftheliquidisalittlebelowthetape,addfilteredwateruntiltheyalign.Giveitastir.
Replacethekitchentowelandrubberband.After3days,drainoffsomeliquidviathespigotintoasmallglassandtaste
it.Ifit’stoosweet,waitanotherdayortwoandtryagainbeforebottlingyour2quarts(2L)orso.Bepreparedtotryafewtimesifyourbrewingenvironmentisonthecolderside.Onceittastesright,repeattheentireprocedure,fromthetop!
SCOBYFROMSTORE-BOUGHTKOMBUCHAIfyoudon’thaveaSCOBYavailable,youmaybeabletogrowonefromabottleofstore-bought
kombucha.IfyouareintheUnitedStates,youwillhavethebestchancesofsuccesswithaclassic-
stylekombucharatherthanareformulatedone(seehere).Classickombuchasaretypicallylabeled
andsoldasalcoholicbeverages,althoughtheiralcoholcontentisgenerallyquitelow.
YIELD:1SCOBY
2cups(500ml)filteredwater
1/2tablespoon(5g)loose-tealeaves,or1teabag2tablespoons(25g)granulatedsugar
1bottle(12to16ounces,or375to500ml)store-bought,raw,unflavored,tea-basedkombuchaBoil2cups(500ml)ofwaterinasmallpotoverhighheat.Removefromtheheat,addthetea,andletsteepfor5to10minutes.Removethetealeavesandaddthesugar;stiruntildissolved.Letcooluntilcomfortabletothetouch.
Transfertheteatoahalfgallon(2L)Masonjarandpourinthestore-boughtkombucha.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Leaveitatroomtemperature.
Dependingmostlyontemperature,aSCOBYmayformin1to3weeks.Bepatient,butifnothinghashappenedafter6weeks,it’slikelythatnothingwillhappen—it’stimetogiveupandtryagain.
LettheSCOBYthickento1/4inch(6mm)ifit’sgrowing—butit’sprobablyokayifitdoesn’tgettothatthickness.Useittomakeyournextbatchofkombucha!
FLAVOREDKOMBUCHASECONDFERMENTATION(2F)
Secondaryfermentationisanicewaytogivekombuchaakick.Itcanmakeitmorebubblyand
impartsomeinterestingflavors.(Seesidebar).Ifflavoringlargerbatchesofkombucha,increasethe
amountoffruityouuseaccordingly.Flip-top(Grolsch-style)bottlesworkwell,asdocommercial
kombuchabottles,Masonjars,orsmallcarboysorgrowlers.
Upto1/4cup(55g)fresh,dried,orfrozenfruitperquart(liter)kombuchaFreshordriedherbs,spices,androotstotaste
16ounces(500ml)ormorekombucha
Peelanynonorganicingredients.Cutorchopeverythingintosmallpiecesorpuréeinafoodprocessor.
Pourthekombuchaliquid(withouttheSCOBY)intobottles,leavingspacefortheingredientsyouwillbeadding.Addthefruitandotheringredients,leavingaslittleairaspossible.Sealorcaptightly.Writethebrewingdateonpiecesofmaskingtapeandstickthemtotheoutsideofthebottles.
Letthemsitatroomtemperaturefor2daysto2weeks.Thewarmeritis,thelesstimeisneeded.
Topreventkombuchaexplosions,refrigeratethebottlesofkombuchaforatleast1hourbeforeopening.Serveasisorstrainoutanysolidsbeforedrinking.Refrigerateafteropening.
BOTTLINGTIP:Bottlesomeofyourkombuchainasmall,BPA-freeplasticbottle.Squeezethebottleduringthesecondaryfermentationprocesstogetasenseofhowmuchpressurehasbuiltup.Forafurtherdiscussionofbottlingstrategies,seehere.
WARNING:Donotshakebeforeopening.Itcancreatequiteamess!Swirlinggentlyisokay.
SUGGESTEDFLAVORCOMBINATIONS
Herearesomeofourfavoritefruitandspice/herbcombosforflavor-basedkombucha:•BlueberryLavender
•GuavaRose
•TurmericRaisin
•GrapefruitRosemary
•StrawberryMint
•CherryBasil
•OrangeGinger
•MixedBerry
•RoseTeaCherry
•GingerLemon
COFFEEKOMBUCHAHere’sanotherwaytogetadifferentflavor:Useadifferentliquid...suchascoffee!ThenewSCOBY
thisbatchformsmayormaynotbehealthyenoughtocreateanotherbatch.Tomaximizeyour
chancesofsuccess,useatea-bredSCOBYforeverynewbatchofcoffeekombuchayoumake.
YIELD:1QUART(1L),ABOUT3TO4SERVINGS
1/4cup(50g)granulatedsugar1quart(1L)freshlybrewedcoffee
KombuchaSCOBY
1/4cup(60ml)kombuchaliquidDissolvethesugarinthehotcoffeeinahalfgallon(2L)Masonjarandletitcooltoroomtemperature.AddtheSCOBYandkombuchaliquid.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwithrubberbandorMasonjarring.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Leaveitatroomtemperatureapproximately7daysoruntilanewkombuchaSCOBYhasformed.
JUNJunisakombuchavariantmadewithhoneyasthesweetener.Thereareafewnotabledifferences
betweenthetwo:■Junbrewsquickerthansugarkombucha,perhapsbecause(disaccharide)sugar
usedforkombuchaneedstobebrokendownintoitsconstituentfructoseandglucose,whereas
(mostlymonosaccharide)honeyusedforjundoesnotneedthisbreakdownprocess.
■Junishappierbrewingatlowertemperaturesthankombucha.■Jundoesbestwithgreentea,whilekombuchabrewedwithsugarseemstobelesspicky.
■Becausehoneyhasalreadybeenbrokendownintofructoseandglucose,itissuitableforpeopleontheGAPSdiet,whilesugar(sucrose)isnot.
Sobrewingjunratherthanstandardkombuchamightmakesenseifyouhaveasteadysourceof
honey,ifyouliveinacoolerclimate,orifyouhaveahealthreasontofavorit.Ontheotherhand,if
youbuyyoursweetenersatthestore,brewingstandardkombuchawillbesignificantlycheaperthan
brewingjunbecausesugarischeaperthanhoney.
Thisrecipeisjustlikethebatchkombucharecipeshownhere,exceptthatinsteadofdissolvingsugar
inhottea,wedissolvehoneyinsomewhatcoolertea.Thispreservestheenzymesintherawhoney.
YIELD:4SERVINGS
1quart(1L)filteredwater
1tablespoongreentealeaves(5g)or2bagsgreentea1/4cup(75g)rawhoney1/2cup(125ml)liquidJun1healthyJunSCOBY
Boil1pint(500ml)ofwaterinasmallpotoverhighheat.Removefromtheheat,addthetea,andletsteepforatleast5minutes.
Removethetealeaves.Addtheremaining1pint(500ml)ofroomtemperaturewater.Testthewatertemperaturewithyourfinger.Whenit’scomfortabletoyourfinger,addthehoneyandstirwithawoodenspoonuntildissolved.
Transfertoalargeglassjarwithawidemouth,leavingatleast3inches(8cm)ofspaceontop.AddthejunliquidandplacetheSCOBYontop.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeontheoutsideofthejar.
Letitsitatroomtemperature,between68°Fand77°F(20°Cand25°C),ifpractical.Howlongyourjunneedstobrewdependsonambienttemperature,butitusuallybrewsquickerthankombucha.Threeto5daysisagoodwindow.
Duringthebrewing,anewSCOBYmayformontopofthejarandtheoldSCOBYmaysink.OnceareasonablythicknewSCOBYhasformedtocoverthetoppartoftheliquid,thejuniswellonitswaytobeingready.Tasteit,usingacleanladle;itshouldbetart.Ifit’sstilltoosweet,waitanotherdayortwoandtasteitagain.
ProceedasforKombucha.Alternately,usethecontinuous-brewmethodbyfollowingthestepsshown
here.ReplacethekombuchaSCOBY,liquid,andsugarwiththejunSCOBY,liquid,andhoney.Rememberthatjunbrewsbestingreentea.
CHAPTEREIGHT
VEGETABLEDRINKSBEETKVASS
CUCUMBERPICKLEBRINE
RADISHBRINE
JUICEDFERMENTEDVEGETABLES
KIMCHISODA
FERMENTEDGREENJUICE
FermentedvegetabledrinkshavemoreBandC
vitaminsthantheirfreshjuicecousins.Becauseofthe
fermentation,theyalsocontainsignificantlymore
enzymesandlesssugar,sincethemicrobesproduce
enzymestotransformsugarsintoacids,vitamins,and
otherthings.Thesugarinfreshjuicescanbe
problematicforsomepeople.Andthesearejusttheadvantagesthatfermentedjuiceshaveover
fresh,rawjuices.Whenyoulookatcommercialpasteurizedjuices,even100%juice,notfrom
concentratejuices,orcoldpasteurizedjuices,thedifferencesareevenmoredramaticbecausethe
enzymesandsomevitaminsarelostinprocessing.
◁BEETKVASSBeetkvassisthebrinefromfermentedbeets(beetroot).Itcombinesthebenefitsofbeetswiththe
benefitsoffermentation!BeetscontainvitaminB9(folate)andvitaminC,plusironandavarietyof
mineralsthatarenecessaryforpropernerveandmusclefunctionandforhealthybones,liver,
kidneys,andpancreas.
Beetkvassiseasytomake,andashotofitisagreatmorningtonicandorgancleanser.Ifyoubuy
organicbeetsandginger,youdon’tevenhavetopeelthem.Thisrecipeworkswellinahalfgallon(2
L)Masonjar.
YIELD:ABOUT11/2QUARTS(1.5L)2or3beets,peeledifnotorganic
1inch(2.5cm)offreshginger,peeledifnotorganic(optional)1inch(2.5cm)ofsprigrosemary(optional)
Approximately11/2quarts(1.5L)filteredwater1tablespoon(15g)seasalt
Coarselychopthebeetsinto1/2-to1-inch(1to2.5cm)pieces.Cuttheginger(ifusing)into1/4-inch(6mm)chunks.Placethebeets,ginger,androsemary(ifusing)inahalfgallon(2L)Masonjar.Fillthejarhalfwaywithfilteredwater.Addthesalt,closethelid,andshake.Oncethesalthasdissolved,openthelidandfillwithwatertotheshoulderofthejar,leaving1to2inches(2.5to5cm)ofspaceatthetop.Closethelid.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Letitsitforafewdaysto1weekifyourroomiswarm,orfor2or3weeksifit’scooler.Thekvasswillprogresswellifyoukeepthelidclosed.Gentlyagitateonceadaytoensurethatmolddoesnotform.Youknowit’sonitswaywhenitstartsgettingfoamy.Onceyouopenthelid,though,it’sbesttostrainthekvassandrefrigerateitbecauseifyoucloseitagainandleaveitatroomtemperature,moldscantakehold.
Whenyou’rereadytoputitintothefridge,pouritthroughastrainertoseparatethebeets(andotheroptionalingredients)fromtheliquid.Thekvassistheliquid.Keepitcoveredintherefrigeratoranddrinkitcoldifyoulike.
Keepthebeetchunksintherefrigerator,too.Theycanbechoppedupandthrowninsaladsorsoups,blendedandaddedtosaladdressing,orputthroughajuicer.Oryoucanblendthebeetchunkswithsomeofthekvassasthebaseforafermentedbeetgazpachoorborscht!
VARIATION:Substitute6carrotsforthebeets.(Gingergoeswellincarrotkvass;rosemarymayoverwhelmit.)Carrotkvassisagoodoptionforpeoplewhodon’tlikebeets,andit’sagoodwaytostartdevelopingatasteforfermentedtonics.
CUCUMBERPICKLEBRINEThisisafermentedpicklerecipethatisquickerthansome,anditproducesanicebrine.Ifyourunintomoldproblems,addmoreleavesorspicesand/orbumpuptheamountofsaltabit.Oak,grape,andmesquiteleaves,tea,andpicklingspicesallcontaintannins.Tanninsareantifungal,sotheydiscouragemoldsandyeastsfrompopulatingthepicklesandpicklebrine.Garlicandgingerhaveantifungalpropertiestoo.
YIELD:ABOUT1QUART(1L)OFBRINE
21/2tablespoons(40g)seasalt1quart(1L)filteredwater
1to2cups(125to250g)coarselychoppedcucumber
Yourchoiceofherbsandspicessuchaspeeledwholeclovesgarlic,peeled(ifnotorganic)andslicedginger,slicedorrough-cutonionsorsmallpearlonions,picklingspices,and/orwholepeppercorns1or2oak,grape,ormesquiteleaves,oroneblackteabagPreparethebrine:StirthesaltintothefilteredwaterinawidemouthMasonjaroraceramiccrockuntildissolved.Ifyouareimpatient,heatsomeofthewater,dissolvethesaltinit,andthenaddtherestofthecoolerwater;besurethattheliquidisapproximatelyroomtemperaturebeforeproceeding.
Placethecucumbers,herbs,spices,andleavesintoajar.Pourthebrineoverthevegetables,coveringthembyatleast2inches(5cm).Weighingdownthevegetablestokeepthemunderthebrineishelpful,althoughitisnotstrictlynecessary.Thiscanbeaccomplishedwithasmallplate;ceramicfermentationweights;boiledlarge,flatstones;orothervegetablepiecesandcanhelppreventmoldfrombecomingaproblemandkeepthingscrisper.
Closethelidandplacethejarontopofatrayincaseitleaks.Thisisagoodopportunitytouseajar-sizeairlock,ifyouhaveone.(Seechapter4.)Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Ifyou’renotusinganairlock,thenduringthefirstfewdays,pressurewillbuildup.Itisagoodideatocheckthejaronceortwiceaday.Burpthejarbyquicklyopeningandclosingthelidtoletpressureout.
Tasteonday3.Oncethepickleshavesoftenedalittleandthebrinetasteslikepickles,transfertotherefrigerator.Youcaneatthepicklesanddrinkthebrineatanytime.
Don’tletthecucumbersfermentfortoolongduringhotweatherbecausetheycanquicklybecomesoftordevelopmold.Ifyouseemoldformingontop,discardandstartagain.Evenifthepicklesdon’tgetmoldy,theycanlosetheircrispness.Softpicklesaren’tmuchfun,butevenifyouthrowoutthepickles,iftherearenosignsofmold,thebrineisagreatprobioticdrink.
RADISHBRINERadishbrineisatwistonaregularpicklebrine,withanintense,pepperyflavor.
YIELD:ABOUT1QUART(1L)BRINE
Upto1cup(75g)finelyshreddedcabbage(optional)
21/2tablespoons(40g)plus1teaspoon(5g)seasalt1quart(1L)filteredwater
1to2cups(125to225g)wholeorhalvedradishes
Yourchoiceofherbsandspicessuchaspeeledwholeorslicedgarlic;peeled(ifnotorganic)andslicedginger;smallonions;and/orpicklingspices,suchasbayleaves,oakleaves,cinnamon,mustardseeds,wholepeppercornsPlacethecabbage(ifusing)inalargemixingbowl.Add1teaspoon(5g)ofsaltandmixthoroughlywithyourcleanhands.Squeezeuntiltheshreddedcabbagereleasesitsjuice.
Preparethebrine:Stir21/2tablespoons(40g)ofsaltintothefilteredwaterinawidemouthjarormixingbowluntildissolved.
Placetheradishesandspicesinalargejar.Addthecabbageanditsjuice.Pourthebrineoverthevegetables,coveringthembyatleast2inches(5cm).Weighdownthevegetableswithsomethingtokeepthembelowthesurface,ifdesired.Dependingonwhatvesselyou’reusing,weightoptionsincludeasmallplate,ceramicfermentationweights,andothervegetablepieces.
Closethelidandplacethejarontopofatray.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Duringthefirstfewdays,pressurewillbuildup.Itisagoodideatocheckthejaronceortwiceaday.Burpthejarbyquicklyopeningandclosingthelidtoletpressureout.Orifyouprefer,useanairlocklid.(Seechapter4.)Starttastingaroundday5.Onceyoulikethetaste,transfertotherefrigeratororleaveatroomtemperature.
◁JUICEDFERMENTEDVEGETABLESFermentedvegetablessuchassauerkrautandkimchicanbeeasilytransformedintoaprobioticdrink
ortonic.Putyourfermentedvegetablesthroughajuicerandvoilá!Youcandrinktheliquidstraight
outofthejuicer.Oryoumaywanttoenjoyitgradually,bybottlingitandrefrigeratingit.Serveit
withrawoystersorclamsasashooterorinashotglassasadigestifchaserforacheeseand
charcuterieplate.
Ifyouhavejarsofvegetablefermentsthathavebeensittinginyourfridgestaringatyouforlonger
thanyou’dcaretoadmit,thisisagreatdestinyforthem.It’salsogoodformixology—folksare
alwayslookingforcocktailinspiration.Youcanmixitwithbeertomakeafermentedmicheladaor
withvodkaaspartofafermentedKimchiBloodyMary.
Forhowtomakefermentedvegetablesbeyondthecucumberpicklesandradishes,seethe
“Resources”section,searchtheInternet,orcheckoutAlex’spreviousbook,RealFoodFermentation.
KIMCHISODAWhocanresistkimchisoda?!It’sspicy,garlicky,andbriny.Asaltrimisapossibility,butprobably
redundant!Ifyouneedsomethingtowakeyouupinthemorning,takeagoodchugofkimchisoda.
Youmaynotneedcoffeeanymore.Andallthatgarlicmaykeepthemosquitosaway,nottomention
yourcoworkers,family,andfriends!
YIELD:2SERVINGS
1/2cup(75g)kimchi2cups(500ml)sparklingwater
Adashoflime(optional)
Ice(optional)
Putthekimchithroughajuicerorblenditinablenderandstrainthejuice.Pourthekimchijuiceintotwoglassestoserve.Trymargaritaorbeerglassesifyouwanttoexploreasaltrimorchampagneglassestoshowoffthebubbles.Addsparklingwater,lime,andice(ifusing)andserve.Ifyou’rearealkimchilover,addmorekimchijuiceorevengarnishwithchunksorslicesofkimchi.
FERMENTEDGREENJUICEOurfriendMarcelaMerino,rawfoodchefandfounderofRawdelicious,gaveusthisrecipe.She
alwayshasamazingrecipesforgreenjuicesandsmoothies,sowethoughtitwouldbefuntotrya
fermentationtwistononeofherbasicgreenjuices.Tryitwithasaltrim!
YIELD:1SERVING
1/2ofacucumber,peeled4celerysticks
1cupfreshorfermented(30gor180g)spinachor(70gor130g)kale1greenapple
1lemon,peeled(ifnotorganic)andquartered
1inch(2.5cm)ginger,peeledifnotorganic
1/4cup(40g)sauerkrautPutalltheingredientsthroughajuicer.Serveimmediately.
CHAPTERNINE
SODASHIBISCUSSODA
GRAPESODA
FRUITYSODA
LEMONGINA/LIMEGINA
ORANGINA
FRUITJUICESODAS
COCONUTSODAKEFIR
Asodaisanytypeofsweetdrinkwithbubblesthatis
notalcoholicorhasonlytraceamountsofalcohol.
Whenwethinkaboutsodas,weusuallypictureaCoca-
ColaoraMountainDew.Butthisisnotthepictureofa
healthyprobioticdrink!
TheKimchiSodarecipeshownherewasnotananomaly;inthischapter,wewillshowyouthat
makingdelicioussodasathomeiseasy,cheap,andhealthy.Addingfermentedsodastoyourdietisa
greatwaytocurbyourconsumptionofunhealthysodas.Evenyourkidswilllovethem!
◁HIBISCUSSODAJamaicaistheMexicannameforhibiscus.Itisalsothenameofoneofthemostpopularandwidely
consumedhomemadedrinksinMexico;it’smadefromwater,hibiscusflower,andsugar.Whenyou
sitdowntolunchataMexicanhome,youmaybeasked:“LimonadaorJamaica?”Asakid,Raquel
neverthoughtJamaicawasanythingotherthanared,sweet,delicious,andrefreshingdrink.
Aboutayearago,RaquelinvitedSandorKatztoherhometownofMonterrey,Mexico,whereheleda
fermentationconference.Onedaywhiletheywerediscussingthedifferencesbetweenkombucha
andotherfermentedbeverages,sheaskedhimhowtointroducekombuchaintohercommunity.With
amischievoussmile,hesuggested,“Whydon’tyoustartbywildlyfermentingabeveragethat
everybodyalreadylikesandisusedto?”Thus,HibiscusSodawasborn—awildfermentationrecipe—
ambientmicrobesdothework,andnostarterisneeded.
YIELD:ABOUT6SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH
8cups(2L)filteredwater
21/2ounces(75g)driedhibiscusflowers
3/4cup(150g)granulatedsugar
Bringthewatertoaboilinasaucepanoverhighheat.Addthehibiscusflowers,cover,reducetheheat,andsimmerfor15minutes.Removethesaucepanfromtheheatandstraintheliquidintoabowl(theflowerscanbedriedtomakeanutritioussnack).Addthesugartotheliquidandstirwithakitchenspoonorspatulauntildissolved.Lettheliquidcooltoroomtemperature.
PourtheliquidintoabigglassMasonjarorintoafewsmallerones,leavingabout2inches(5cm)ofspaceatthetop(useafunnel,ifyouhaveone,topreventaredandstickycountertop!).Coverthejarorjarswithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Letthejarssitatroomtemperatureuntiltheliquidstartsbubbling.Thismaytakeanywherefrom3to10days,dependingonambienttemperature—thewarmertheweather,thesooneritwillstartbubbling.Stirdailywithawoodenspoontopreventmoldfromforming.Letitbubbleforadayortwoandthentasteit.Thetasteshouldbemoretartandlesssweet.Ifit’sstillonthesweeterside,letitbubbleanothercoupleofdaysandtasteitagain.
Onceyoulikethetaste,bottleitinserving-sizebottlesandrefrigerateit.Thisfermentedbeverageisevenlivelierthanmost,soconsiderbottlinginthickglassorBPA-freeplasticbottlesorheedtherecommendationsinthelongerdiscussionofbottlingstrategiesshownhere.Becareful:Ifyouhandleitcasuallyorfailtorefrigerateitconsistently,youmayhaveexplodingbottlesonyourhands!
GRAPESODAAsachildinMexico,RaquelusedtoloveagrapesodacalledGrapette.Itcameinaverysmallglass
bottleandtastedlikeheaven!Grapetteeventuallydisappeared,butwhenevershethinksaboutit
thesedays,shegetsawarmlongingfeelingofchildhood.Today’ssodasarefilledwithartificial
flavorsandhighfructosecornsyrupandhavenonutritionalbenefit.Makingthisimprovedversion
bringsbackhappymemories!
YIELD:4TO5SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
1quart(1L)WaterKefir
1/4to1/2cup(40to75g)frozengrapesor(60to125ml)grapejuice
PourthestrainedwaterkefirintoliddedMasonjars,flip-topGrolsch-stylebottles,oroldkombuchabottles.Addthegrapesorgrapejuiceandclosethelids.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejarsorbottles.
Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor24to48hours.Thisisthesecondaryfermentation.Secondaryfermentationkefircanbeverypotent,sobecarefulwhenopeningthebottles.Gasbuildupcanbeextremeandexplosionscanoccur!Topreventaccidents,itisagoodideatorefrigeratethebottlesforacoupleofhoursbeforeopening.
FRUITYSODAIfyoufindyourselfwithmorefruitthanyouknowwhattodowith,here’sagoodwaytodo
somethinginterestingwithit.
YIELD:7SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
4cups(900g)choppedseasonalfruits
7cups(1.75L)filteredwater
1/2cup(100g)granulatedsugar
Peelanyfruitsthatyouwouldtypicallypeel,includingoranges,grapefruits,pricklypears,mango,melon,pineapple,andwatermelon.Youdon’tneedtopeelanyotherfruits,suchasapples,pears,andgrapes.Chopthefruitinto4cups(900g)of1/2-inch(1.5cm)chunks.
Warm2cups(500ml)ofwaterinapotoverlowheat.Stirinthesugaruntildissolved.TransfertoabigceramicorglasscontainerorseparateintotwowidemouthMasonjars.Addtheremaining5cups(1.25L)ofwater.Stirinthechoppedfruit.
Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Threetimesaday,openthejar,stirvigorously,andreplacethecover.Within3to7days,therewillbealotofbubbling.Stireverydaytopreventmold.
Oncethebubblinghaspeakedandhasjuststartedtodiedown,strainoutthefruit.Bottlethesoda.
◁LEMONGINA/LIMEGINAThisisanexcellentsportsdrinkcontainingelectrolytes,vitamins,andsomeprotein.Ittasteslike
lemonorlimesoda,butnotassweet.Itishighlyrecommendedafterexerciseoronahotsummer
day!
YIELD:4SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
1quart(1L)filteredwater
1/2cup(100g)granulatedsugar
Pinchofseasalt
Juiceof4lemons,limes,oracombination
1/2cup(125ml)liveWhey
1/4cup(65g)frozenraspberries(optional)
Warm1pint(500ml)ofwaterinapotoverlowheat.Stirinthesugarandsaltuntildissolved.Removefromtheheat,addtheremaining1pint(500ml)ofwater,andletitcooldownbelowbodytemperature.Addthelemonjuice,whey,andraspberries(ifusing).
PourtheLemonginaintoaglassorceramicjarandclosethelidandshake.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor3to7days,dependingonthetemperature.Agitateatleastonceadaytopreventmoldfromforming.Begintastingatthefirstsignofbubbles.Itisdonewhenitisfizzyandsourandtangy.
Refrigerateonceitreachesdesiredtaste.Theraspberriesmayberemovedorleftin.
ORANGINAForRaquel,OranginainstantlyconjuresmemoriesofcarefreeteenagesummersinFrance,tryingto
practiceherFrenchwhileorderingOranginaandcroquemonsieurs.Tooyoungforwineandnot
havingyettheacquiredtasteforespresso,Oranginawasherbeverageofchoice.
Afewyearsback,shestumbledupontheOranginarecipeinSallyFallon’sbook,NourishingTraditions.
PostcardsfromcafesandstreetsinFranceimmediatelyfloodedhermind.Oranginaasaprobiotic
healthybeverage—whatcouldbebetter?
YIELD:4SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
2cups(500ml)orangejuice
Pinchofseasalt
2tablespoons(30ml)Wheyor1tablespoon(15g)milkkefirgrains
Juiceof1lemonorlime
2cups(500ml)filteredwater
Combinealltheingredientsinaglassorceramicjar.Coverwiththelid.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Letitsitatroomtemperatureforatleast2to3daysoruntilitgetsfizzy.Ifyouaddedkefirgrainsinsteadofwhey,strainthemout,rinsethemwith
nonchlorinatedwater,andrefreshthemwithfreshmilk.TransfertheOranginatotherefrigerator.Letcoolandserve.
FRUITJUICESODASDavidAsher,authorofTheArtofNaturalCheesemaking,suggestsusingmilkkefirgrainstoferment
fruitjuices.It’saneasymethod,andyou’llbeamazedattheendresults.Thetasteisveryspecial,and
ifleftlonger,itstartstoresemblealightsparklingwine.Forthehealthiestresults,considerusing
fresh-squeezedjuicesinsteadofpasteurizedjuicesfromthesupermarket.Pasteurizationdestroysthe
enzymesandsomeofthevitaminsthatmakefruithealthy.Fermentingbringssomeofthemback,
butthemoreyoustartwith,thebetter.
YIELD:1QUART(1L)
1quart(1L)fruitjuice,suchasapple,grape,orange,pear,ormango
1tablespoon(15g)milkkefirgrains,rinsedwithfilteredwater
PourthefruitjuiceintoaBPA-freeplasticbottleorglassjar.Addthekefirgrainsandmixwellbystirringorclosingandshaking.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Letitrestatroomtemperaturefrom1to3days,dependingonthetemperature.Openthejarorbottledailytoreleasegas.Tasteperiodicallyandreplacethecoverifnotyetdone.Refrigeratewhenyoulikethetaste,beforethebubblingactiondiesdown.
APPLECIDERSODA
SeetheAppleCiderrecipeshownhere.AppleCiderSodaisthefirstphase!Fromthereyoucanmoveontohardcidersandvinegars.
◁COCONUTSODAKEFIRCoconutwaterisagreatdrinkforwhenyouneedtohydratebecauseofitselectrolytecontent.Kefir
grainsaddthebenefitsoffermentation,makingthisarefreshingandnutritivedrink,perfectafter
workoutsoronahotsummerday.Ittastesrefreshinglytropical.FollowtherecipeforWaterKefir,
butusecoconutwater(freshorstore-bought)insteadoffilteredwater.
Rememberthataftermakingabatchofcoconutwaterkefiroranyotherunusualkefirwithwater
kefirgrains,itisbesttomakeabatchofwaterkefirusingplainsugarwatertogivethekefirgrainsa
chancetogetbacktonormal.
Ifyoufindthatthecoconutsodaisnotsweetorbubblyenough,youcanaddasweetenerofyour
choicebeforefermentingorforasecondaryfermentwhenyoubottleit.Coconutsugarisone
obviouschoice;plaincanesugar,panela,andmaplesyrupwouldalsoworkwell.
CHAPTERTEN
BEERS,GRAINS,ANDROOTSKHADI(SOUTHAFRICANBEER)
BREADKVASS
REJUVELAC
ROOT(S)BEER
GINGERBEER
Namingfermenteddrinksiscomplicated.Sometimes,
thesamesortofdrinkarisesindependentlyindifferent
partsoftheworld,leadingtomultiplenames.
Sometimes,adrinkgetsmultiplenamesinasingle
place.Kombuchaanditsmanynamesisagreat
exampleofthisphenomenon.Thesamethinghappens
withbeerandwinetoo.
BEERVS.WINEThenexttwochaptersareaboutbeersandwines.Thequestionofwhatisabeerandwhatisawinehighlightsthecomplexity,locality,andsometimesarbitrarinessoffermenteddrinknaming(andoffermentedfoodsingeneral,and,infact,ofallfoods!).Manypeoplebelievethatalcoholicfermentsofgrainsarebeers,andalcohol
fermentsoffruitsarewines.Butthisisaconventionratherthanarule.Andtherearemanydrinksthatdon’tfitthisdichotomy,containingneithergrainnorfruitasabase;therearealsoafewalcoholfermentsthatincludebothgrainandfruit.Whethertheseendupbeinggroupedwithbeersorhavingbeer-likenames(suchasale),beinggroupedwithwines,orhavingtheirowncategoriesaltogetherisamatterofhistory,accident,andsometimesofotherfactorssuchasalcoholcontent.Here’saproposalforhowtodistinguishbetweenbeersandwines:
1.Someliquidscontainmostoftheircarbohydratesassimplesugars—monosaccharidessuchasglucoseandfructose.Grapejuice,applejuice,
honey,andcactusjuiceareexamples.Yeastcanfermentsimplesugarsdirectly,sotheseliquids,full-strengthordilutedwithwater,canbefermentedstraightforwardlyandquicklywiththeadditionofsomeyeastoroftenjustbyrelyingonambientwildyeastand“spontaneous”fermentation.
2.Someliquidsalsocontaindisaccharides,orcomplexsugars,suchassucrose(tablesugar),lactose(milksugar),andmaltose.Yeastsproduceenzymesthatdigestthesecomplexsugarsintosimplesugars;thisclearsthepathforthesimplesugarstobefermentedintoalcohol,asabove.Thefirststep,breakingdownthecomplexsugarsintosimplesugars,takessomeextratime,butotherthanthat,therearenoadditionalmeasuresthatahumanneedstotaketofermenttheseliquids.Kombucha,milkkefir,and(sometimes)waterkefirfallintothiscategory,beingfermentsofsucroseandlactose,althoughsincetheseculturescontainbacteriainadditiontoyeast,mostofthealcoholthatdevelopsintheseisconvertedintoacid.Notethatjun,kombucha’slesser-knowncousin,startswithhoneyratherthansugar.Thatputsjuninthefirstcategorybecausehoneycontainsmostlysimplesugars.ThisexplainswhyJunfermentsquickerthankombucha—ithasonefewerstepinitsjourney.Similarly,waterkefirmadewithmonosaccharidessuchashoneyandfruitjuicewouldalsobeinthefirstcategory.Asanotherexample,honeymeadfermentsmorequicklythanmaplesyrupmead(acerglyn)becausehoneycontainsmainlymonosaccharidesandmaplesyrupcontainsalotmoredisaccharides.
3.Liquidsinathirdcategorycontainsubstantialamountsofcomplexcarbohydrates(starches).Typicalgrainferments(beers)startoffthisway,asastarchymashofgrains.Yeastisnotabletoactonthesestarchesdirectly,sosomeintermediateprocessingisnecessarytobreakthestarchesdownintosugars.Inthecaseofbeer,thebreakdownisaccomplishedthroughheat.Insomeothercases,theprocessishelpedalongbytheadditionofenzymesfromothersources.
Thisbreakdowncanbeaccomplishedinsurprisingways.Forexample,sometimeshumansalivaplaysarole:Salivacontainsexactlytherightenzymesforbreakingdownstarchintosugar.Youcanconfirmthisbychewingonacrackerforawhile;itwillstarttotastesweet.Sometraditionalbeersarestartedinjustthisway,byhavingpeoplechewonstarchyplantmaterialandthenspititintoavesselofsomesort,wherethestarchcontinuestobreakdown.Inthisbook,wedonotincludeanyrecipesemployinghumansaliva,butifyouareinclinedtogodownthisroad,westronglyrecommendthatanysaliva-catalyzed
breakdownbefollowedbyagoodlongboil,forsanitarypurposes!Andyouwouldnotbebetrayingtraditionbyboilingyourwort;manypreparationsincludeaboilstep.Weproposethatprocessesfollowingpattern1,involvingmostlysimple
sugars,becalledthewinefamily,andthatprocessesfollowingpattern3,involvingapreliminarybreakdownofstarches,bethebeerfamily.Pattern2fallsrightinthemiddle.Anotherobservationisthatingeneral,drinksfollowingpattern1tendtobe
theleastyeastyinflavor,anddrinksfollowingpattern3tendtobethemostyeastyinflavor.Inpractice,thesecategoriesmaynotmattermuchbecausenamesand
categoriesforimportantdrinkshavealreadybeenestablished.Butifyouinventanewdrink,thesecategoriesmighthelpyoudecidewhattocallit.
BEERBeersaregenerallygrainferments—mostoftenfermentsoftruegrainssuchasbarleyandwheatandcornandtheirrelatives,butalsosometimesfermentsofpseudograinssuchasbuckwheat,amaranth,andquinoa.Occasionally,beerscanalsobefermentsofotherstarchymaterialssuchascassavaroot.Grainbeerscanbedividedveryroughlyintothreecategories:
■Lagersarefermentedatcoolertemperatures(around50°F,or10°C);specificyeastsadaptedtothesetemperaturesareaddedbythebrewer.
■Alesarefermentedatroomtemperature,giveortake;thebreweraddsyeaststhatdowellinthattemperaturerange.Alesalsogenerallycontainmorehopsthanlagers.Hopsaddsbitternessandservesasapreservative.
■Finally,wildbeersarebrewedatvarioustemperatures,oftenaroundroomtemperature,usingatleastpartlywildyeast—thismeansthatthebrewinghappensinopencontainersforsomeperiodoftime,andwhateveryeasthappentobefloatingaroundintheairfindtheirwayintothesoup,alongwithsomebacteria,andhelpwiththefermenting.Thesebeersoftenhavesomesourflavorstothem,thankstotheparticularmicrobes.Regionalvariationsinmicrobescanleadtoregionalvariationsinwildbeers;Belgiumiswellknownforitswildyeastgrainbeers,whichsometimesalsohavefruitaddedtothem.Yeastsandbacteriacantakeresidenceinthewallsofbuildings,sobeersbrewedinparticularbrewerybuildingsovertheyearsoftenhavesignificantconsistencyfrombatchtobatch,despitebeingwild.
Wildbeershavefallenoutoffavoroverthelastseveralcenturies,forafewreasons.Recently,yeasthasbeenselectivelybred,allowinghumanstochoosethecharacteristicsoftheyeastthatfermentstheirbeer.Also,beer-makinghasmovedfrombeingasmall-scaleactivitytobeingamajorindustry(morethan100billiondollarsintheUnitedStatesalonein2015).Consistencyandpredictabilityarekeytoindustrialproductionofanything.Usingcarefullychosenyeastsmakesthingssignificantlymorepredictablethantheywouldbeusingwildyeasts.Somebeerscontainaddedfruit,eitherintheformofwholefruitorfruitjuice
orsyrup.Often,thefruitisaddedaspartofasecondaryfermentation(seehere).Andinmanycommoncases,aswithfruitlambics,thepredominantcharacterisstillthatofbeer.Sothere’slittledisagreementthatthesearebeers,despitethefactthattheycontainfruitandfruitsugars.InEnglish-speakingcountries,somestrongalesareknownasbarleywines,or
barleywines.(Interestingly,thisnamingexistedinAncientGreeceaswell.)Sometimes,drinknaminglikethisissimplyamatteroftradition.Inothercases,itmayhavesomethingtodowithalcoholcontentandgovernmentregulations.Strongalescanhaveanalcoholcontentmoretypicalofwine(10%)thanofbeer(5%)andareoftentaxedmoreheavilythannormalbeers;theyareoftenconsumedinwineglasses,inwine-likequantities.Callingthemwinesmakessomesortofsensebythosemeasures.Therearealsoalcoholicfermenteddrinksthataremadefromneithergrains
norfruit.Nearlyanyliquidcontainingsugarcanbefermented.SometraditionalAmericanandEuropeandrinkswithnamessuchasbeerand
alehavebeenfermentedregularlyforcenturies,sometimesfortonicortherapeuticpurposes.Someofthesehavenamesthatwemayhaveheard,includinggingeraleandrootbeer.Themodernversionsmaynotcontainanygingerorrootsatallandmaynotbefermented;bubblescanbeaddedtodrinksquicklybyinjectingcarbondioxidegasintothem.Tartnesscanbeaddedintheformofphosphoricacid,whichhasbeenimplicatedinosteoporosisandheartdisease.Therearealsotraditionaldrinksfromotherculturesthatareoftengrouped
withbeers,includingpulqueandcassavabeer.Thebeerassociationmaybeduetotheiryeastyflavorandtheirrelativelylowalcohol,oritmaysimplybebecauseEnglishdoesnothavecategoriesforeveryferment.Inthisbook,wedonotproviderecipesfortypicalbarley-and-hopsbeers.This
processinvolvesmanystepsandcaninvolveenoughequipmentthatitisnot
ideallysuitedtoacasualexperimenterinatypicalhomekitchen.Instead,weproviderecipesforafewtraditionalbeersthatareeasiertomakeathome.
KHADI(SOUTHAFRICANBEER)RECIPEBYHENDRIKJOHANNESJACOBUSHUGH
WhileRaquelwasonasafariattheKalahariDesertinSouthAfrica,thehousechef,HendrikJohannes
JacobusHugh,showedherthisrecipe.Ittastesjusthowyouimagineapineapplebeermighttaste.
Andwhileyou’repreparingyourkhadi,savethepineapplepeels.YoucanusethemtomakeTepache,
pineapplewine!(Seehere.)
YIELD:16SERVINGS(7OUNCES,OR200ML,EACH)11/2cups(90g)wheatbran
4quarts(4L)lukewarmfilteredwater,plusenoughtocoverthewheatbran
3cups(600g)granulatedsugar
1/3cup(25g)driedgroundginger
11/2teaspoons(5g)activedryyeast
1/2ofafreshlycut,peeledpineapple,chopped
Soakthewheatbranforatleast1hourinenoughlukewarmwatertocoveritandthendrain.
Pour4quarts(4L)ofwarmwaterintoalargeceramicorglasspot,addthesugar,andstiruntildissolved.Addtheginger,yeast,pineapple,andwheatbranandstir.Coverwithacleanclothorkitchentowelandsecureitwithalargerubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofpot.
Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor2to3days,dependingonthetemperature.Onceitisbubblyandsmellslikebeer,strainandserveitorrefrigerateit,covered.
BREADKVASSKvassisafizzydrinksimilartobeerbutgenerallysweeterandwithamuchloweralcoholcontent.ItoriginatedinEasternEurope,andbesidesbeingagoodprobiotic,italsohasnutritionalproperties,suchasBvitaminsandmanganese.Itisknownasahangovercure!
YIELD:20SERVINGS(7OUNCES,OR200ML,EACH)
5slicesor8ounces(250g)ryebread(seenote)
5quarts(5L)filteredwater
1/4cup(35g)raisins
2cups(400g)granulatedsugar
1tablespoon(15g)sourdoughstarter(seesidebar)
Toastthebread.Bringthewatertoaboilinalargepotoverhighheat.Removefromtheheat.
Addthetoastedbreadslicesandraisins.Coverthepotwithalidandletitsitovernightatroomtemperatureorforatleast8hours.
Strainoutthebreadandraisinsanddiscardthem,retainingtheliquid.Stirthesugarintotheliquiduntildissolved.Stirinthesourdoughstarteruntil
wellcombined.Coverwithacleankitchentowelandleaveinawarmplace—anovenwith
thelightonworkswell.Letitsitfor24hoursoruntilfoamformsontopofthebrew.Oncethereiswhitefoam,strain,bottle,cap,andrefrigerate.After2daysinthefridge,itisreadytodrink.
CHOOSINGTHEBESTRYEBREAD.Ifbuyingryebreadinsteadofmakingityourself,takeacloselookatingredientslist.Ingredientslistsformostcommercialryebreadsstartwithenrichedflourandcontainlessthan2%rye.Trytoavoidthesebrands,whichoftenalsoincludeenrichedflourandpreservatives,andlookformorenaturalryebreadscontainingahigherpercentageofrye.
SOURDOUGHSTARTER
Sourdoughstarterisusedtomakebreadusingwildyeasts,thuseliminatingtheneedtobuyandusecommercialyeast.Useunbleachedwhiteflouroracombinationofunbleachedwhiteflourwithuptohalfwholewheatorryeflour.
YIELD:ABOUT2CUPS(500G)
STARTERINGREDIENTS
4ounces(125g)flour
4ounces(125ml)filteredwater
FEEDINGINGREDIENTS
12ounces(375g)flour
12ounces(375ml)filteredwater
DAY1
Place4ounces(125g)offlourand4ounces(125ml)ofwaterinaquart(liter)jar.Mixthoroughlyandclosethelid.
DAY2
Stironceortwice.Transfertoacleanjar.Closethelid.
DAY3
Takeout2tablespoons(30g)ofthemixtureanddiscarditoruseittomakesourdoughpancakes.(There’sanicerecipeinSandorKatz’sWildFermentation.)Add2ounces(60g)offlourand2ounces(60ml)offilteredwater.Stiruntilblended.Transfertoacleanjarandclosethelid.
DAYS4TO8
Repeattheprocedureforday3untilthestarterbecomesquitebubbly.Thismeansit’sready.Whenyouwanttousethestarter,putapieceoftapeonthesideofthejartomarkhowfull
thejaris.Takeasmuchofthestarterfromthejarasyourrecipecallsfor.Thenaddflourandwaterbackintothejarinequalamounts(byweight)tobringitbacktoapproximatelythetapemarkonthejar.
Ifyouarenotgoingtousethestarterforawhile,itcanbestoredintherefrigerator.Feediteveryweekorsobyremovinganddiscardingafewtablespoons(125g)ofthestarterandthenstirringinflourandwaterasabove,tomaintainapproximatelytheoriginalvolume.
REJUVELACRejuvelacisadrinkmadefromfermented,sproutedgrains.Wheatberriesaretypical,butother
wholegrainssuchasryeandpseudograinssuchasquinoaandbuckwheataresometimesused.It
tastesabittart,maybelikecitrus,anditmighthaveaslightyeastyorbarnyardfunktoit.Keepan
openmind,andyoumaywinduplovingit!
Rejuvelacispopularinrawandvegancircles.SomeclaimthatitprovidesvitaminsB12andK2,which
areotherwisehardtofindinavegandiet;othersquestionthisclaim.Regardless,rejuvelacisagood
sourceofvitamins,enzymes,andmicrobes.Andrejuvelaccanalsoserveasastarterforfermented
nutbutters,nutcheeses,andotherfoodprojects.
Useacleankitchentowelorsproutingtopduringthesoakingphase.Asproutingtopisafinemesh
lid,eitherplasticormetal.Thismakesthesoak-rinse-drainroutinequicker,andtidierthanwith
cloth.
YIELD:4SERVINGS(7OUNCES,OR200ML,EACH)
1cup(250ml)rawwheatberriesorotherraw,nonirradiatedwholegrain
Filteredwater
Placethegrainsinahalfgallon(2L)Masonjar.Pourfilteredwaterintothejaruntilthegrainsaresubmerged.Coverthejarwithacleankitchentowel,cheesecloth,orsproutingtopandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Letsoak8to10hours,perhapsovernight,butnotmuchlonger.Drainthroughtheclothorsproutingtop,rinse,anddrainagain.
Arrangethejaranditscoverinsuchawaythatsomeaircirculatesoverthegrainsandsothatliquidwilldrainasmuchaspossible.SallyFallonsuggestslayingthebottledownsidewaysatananglebyproppingupthebottomendofthejarhigherthanthetopend,sothattheliquidcandrainoutthetop.Twotofourtimesaday,rinsethegrains,drainthem,andthenleavethejaronitsside.
After2or3days(orsometimessooner—itmaydependonlotsoffactors,includingthegrain,roomtemperature,etc.),you’llnoticelittlewhitetailsemergingfromthegrains.Thismeansthattheyaresprouting!Oncetheyhavesprouted,drainandrinsethem.
Transferthesproutedgrainstoacleanhalfgallon(2L)Masonjar,add4cups(1L)ofwater,coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.
Leaveitatroomtemperaturefor2or3daysuntilthewaterbecomescloudy.Thecloudywaterisyourrejuvelac.Thelongeryoulettheliquidsitwiththegrains,thestrongerandmoresouritwillget.
Starttastingyourrejuvelacafterthesecondorthirdday,andwhenyoudecidethatit’sready,strainthesproutsout,movetheliquidintoasealedbottle,andrefrigeratetheliquid.Asyoubecomemoreexperiencedwithrejuvelac,experimentandseeifyoucanfindthelevelofsournessthatyoulikemost.
Forbestresults,drinkitwithinaweekorso.Youmaybeabletogetasecondroundofrejuvelacoutofthesamesprouted
grainsbyaddingwaterandlettingthejarsitagain.Thesecondroundmaynotbeasstrongasthefirst,and/oritmaytakelonger.
ROOT(S)BEERRoot(s)beerhasaverylowalcoholcontent.Whatwelikeaboutthisrecipeisthatyoucanincorporateanyediblerootyoucanforageorbuy,oryoucanintroducespecificrootsfortheirtherapeuticeffects.
YIELD:12SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
1/4cup(60g)choppedsassafrasrootbark,ifavailable;otherwise,increasetheamountoftheotherroots
1/4cup(60g)mixturechoppedrhizomesorrootssuchaslicorice,ginger,dandelion,orgalangal
1vanillabean,or2teaspoons(10ml)vanillaextract
1/2teaspoon(1g)wintergreenleaforspearmintleaf
1cinnamonstickoradashofcinnamonpowder
3quarts(3L)filteredwater
1cup(200g)granulatedsugar
2tablespoons(30ml)limejuice
1/2cup(125ml)GingerBugorWhey
Placethesassafrasrootbark,otherroots,vanillabean(ifusing),wintergreenleaf,andcinnamoninalargepot.Add3quarts(3L)filteredwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattoalowsimmerfor15to20minutes.Strainintoaheatproofbowl.Stirinthesugaruntildissolved.Addthevanillaextract(ifusing).
Letcooltobodytemperatureorbelow.(Rememberthattoohighatemperaturecanweakenorkillyourgingerbugorwhey!)Addthelimejuiceandgingerbug.Stirwell.
Pourintoflip-topGrolsch-stylebottlesorMasonjarswithlids.(Afunnelcanbeusefulforthis.)Caporcovertightly.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofeachbottleorjar.
Fermentationtimecanrangefromaweektoamonth.AswithGingerBeer,andespeciallythefirstfewtimesyoumakethisrecipe,itmaybeagoodideatoincludeaplasticbottleasacarbonationgauge.
Starttastingafteroneweek.Onceyouaresatisfiedwiththeflavorandcarbonation,transfertotherefrigeratorimmediately.Servechilled.
SASSAFRASCONTROVERSY
SassafrasisadeciduoustreenativetoeasternNorthAmerica.Itsleaves,stems,bark,androotshavebeenusedtraditionallybyNativeAmericansandbyEuropeanandAfricansettlersforcenturies.
Itisinfactquiteacontroversialplant!Astudyinthe1960sshowedthatinlargeamounts,isolatedcomponentsofsassafrasextract
cancausecancerinrats.Tobefair,thesamecanbesaidofalcohol(andmanyotherthingsthatweconsumeregularly)!Regardless,becauseofthisstudy,theU.S.FoodandDrugAdministration(FDA)restrictedtheuseofsassafrasrootextractsinprocessedfood.Also,sassafrasextract,inlargeamounts,canbeusedasaningredientwhensynthesizingpsychedelicdrugs.ThisundoubtedlyaddedtotheFDA’sconcern.
Inanycase,itisprobablywisestnottoconsumesassafrasdailyonanongoingbasis,orinlargequantities,andshoulditshouldprobablybeavoidedbywomenwhoarepregnantorlactating.Ifyouareindoubt,dosomeresearchforyourself,and/oraskyourdoctor.
Havingsaidthis,smallamountsofwholesassafrashavebeenusedtraditionallyforcenturies.Someofthereportedbeneficialusesofsassafrasteaandsassafrasrootbeerinclude,amongotherthings:asadetox,asananalgesic,asananti-inflammatoryandanti-rheumatic,forhelpwithpainfulmenstruation,forhelpwithurinarytractandprostatedisorders,forhelpwithskinailments,andforhelpwitheyeinfectionsandrespiratoryproblems.Sassafrasisalsousedtomakefilé,aseasoningusedinnativeandCreolerecipesincludinggumbo.
◁GINGERBEERGingerbeer,orgingerale,isarefreshingfizzydrinkwithakick.Itcontainsalmostnoalcoholand
doesnotrequirecommercialyeasttobrew.OnceyoumastermakingGingerBug,thisrecipeiseasy
andinexpensivetomake.Itdoesn’trequireanyspecializedequipment.Andit’sa“beer”forthewhole
familytoenjoy.
Thisrecipeisanotheroneforwhichyoumightwanttouseasmallplasticsodabottleamongthe
otherbottlesandjars.Bysqueezingtheplasticbottle,youcanassesshowmuchcarbonationhas
builtup.Whentheplasticbottlehasbecomehard,it’stimetoputallthebottlesintherefrigeratorto
curtailthefermentation.
YIELD:16SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
2to3inches(5to8cm)freshginger,peeledifnotorganic
4quarts(4L)filteredwater
11/2cups(400g)granulatedsugar
Juiceof2lemons,or2ounces(60ml)packagedlemonjuice
1to2tablespoons(15to30ml)bubblyGingerBug
Gratetheginger.Boil2quarts(2L)filteredwaterinapotoverhighheat.Stirthegratedgingerandsugarintotheboilingwateruntilthesugarisdissolved.Turnofftheheat.Coverandletsitfor15minutes.Strain.
Addtheremaining2quarts(2L)filteredwater.Theresultingmixtureshouldbebodytemperatureorbelow;ifit’sstillwarmerthanthat,letitsitforawhileuntilithascooled.(Toomuchheatwillkillthegingerbug!)
Onceithascooledsufficiently,stirinthelemonjuiceandgingerbug.Pourintoflip-topGrolsch-stylebottles,Masonjarswithlids,orothersturdy
vesselsofyourchoosing.(Afunnelcanbeusefulforthis.)Covertightly.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthebottles.
Letitfermentatroomtemperaturefor10to15days.Tasteitfromtimetotime.Itshouldbebubblyandnottoosweet.Refrigerateitonceyoulikethetasteoronceitissufficientlycarbonated.Servechilled.
CHAPTERELEVEN
WINES,CIDERS,ANDFRUITS(ANDVINEGAR!)
APPLECIDER1,2,3
PERRY
BERRYWINE
COUNTRYWINE
PRISONWINE/HOOCH
MEAD
RICEWINE
SPARKLINGCOUNTRYWINE
Thefirstwineswerenecessarilysimpleandnatural.
Today,commercialwinemakersoftenuseadditivesthat
maketheirliveseasierandthatgiveusthebigflavors
andhighalcohollevelsthatwe’vebecomeaccustomed
to.Unfortunately,theseadditivescanmakeusfeelmiserablethenextday.Fortunately,youcan
prepareyourownsimplewinesathome.Likewithmanyhomefoodpreparationprojects,yougain
somecontrolovertheingredientsandhealtheffects,andyoualsosavemoney.
◁APPLECIDER1,2,3Ifyouhaveappletreesorknowsomebodywhodoes,youwilllovetheserecipes.Evenifyoumust
buyapplejuice,youwillstilllovethem.Fromoneingredient—applejuice—youcangetthree
differentdrinks:AppleCiderSodaforeveryone,HardAppleCiderforalcoholdrinkers,andApple
CiderVinegarfortherestoftheyear.
Ifyouwanttousestore-boughtapplejuice,makesureitdoesn’tcontainpreservatives;themain
purposeofpreservativesistoinhibitmicrobes,andmicrobesarekeytofermentation!Clearand
cloudyapplejuicebothwork,butgiveslightlydifferentresults,sotrywhicheveroneappealstoyou,
ortryboth.
Notethatthissamemethodworkswithotherjuicesaswell.Pearcideriscalledperry;grapecider
couldbecalled...wine!
YIELD:VARIABLE
Apples,preferablyorganic
OR
Freshly-pressedapplejuice,preferablyorganicandpreservative-freeOR
Preservative-free,store-boughtapplejuicefromthestore,plusafeworganicapplestojuiceyourself
APPLECIDERSODA
Ifstartingwithapples,juiceorblendthem;strainusingmeshorcheesecloth.Discardorcompostthepulp.
Pourtheapplejuiceintoaceramicorglassvesselorvessels.Filleachnomorethantwo-thirdsfull.Aeratebyeitherstirringwithaspoonorclosingwithanairtightlidandshaking.Removethelidandcoverthevesselwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilter,securedwitharubberband.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Letitsitatroomtemperature.Atsomepointwithinseveraldays,therewillbealotofbubbling.Ambient
temperaturehasabigeffectonhowsoonthishappens.Untilthebubblinghasstarted,stirvigorouslyorshakethreetimesadayandthencoverasbefore.Aeratingthejuicelikethishelpswildyeastfindit,anditpreventsmoldfromtakingholdonthesurface.
Oncethebubblinghaspeakedandstartedtoslowdown,bottlethesodainBPA-freeplasticcontainersorinsuitableglasscontainers,coverorcaptightly,andrefrigerate.Plasticbottlesmaybesaferbecausetheyhandlepressureinamorepredictableandmeasurableway.(Seehereforalongerdiscussionofbottlingstrategies.)Whenbottling,youmayretainthesedimentordiscarditasdesired.Ifyouwanttokeepasmuchaspossibleofthesediment,stirthecidergentlybeforebottlingtodistributeitevenly.Don’tstirtoohard,though,oryouwilllosealotofthebubbles.Toremovethesediment,filtertheliquidthroughafinemeshstrainerorcheeseclothduringbottling;alternatively,allowthesedimenttosettletothebottomandthenpourofftheliquid,orsiphonitoffthetopwhenreadytodrink,oruseanyothermethodthatseemsconvenient.(Siphoninghastheadvantageofdisruptingthecidertheleast,thusretainingthemostbubbles.)Dobeawarethatthesedimentcontainsyeast,whichcontainsBvitaminsandsomeprotein,soformaximumhealthbenefit,retainthesedimentinthedrinkorperhapsfindsomeotherwaytoconsumeit,suchasinsaladdressing.
DonotshakeAppleCiderSodapriortoopeningthecontainer.Ifyoudo,youwilllosealotofyoursodawhenyouopenthebottle!
HARDAPPLECIDER
FollowthestepsformakingAppleCiderSodauntilitstartsbubbling.Ifyouhaveacontainerwithanairlock,transferthesodatothiscontainerassoonasitstartsbubbling.Ifyoudon’thaveacontainerwithanairlock,waituntilthebubblinghasmostlydieddownandthenputthecideritinasealedcontainerandrelievepressuremanuallyeveryfewdaysbyopeningthecapabitandthenclosingittight.
Letthebottlesitatroomtemperature,closed,forupto1month.Removethesedimentasinstructedabove,ifdesired.Bottleandrefrigerate.
APPLECIDERVINEGAR
Youcanmakeapplecidervinegar(oranykindoffruitvinegar,includinggrapevinegar)byleavingAppleCiderSoda,HardAppleCider,oranyfruitwineexposedtoairatroomtemperatureforalongtime.
FollowallthestepsformakingAppleCiderSodaandjustletitkeepfermenting,coveredwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsealedwitharubberband,atroomtemperature(ratherthanbottlingafterthebubblingslowsdown).Continuestirringeveryday(topreventmoldfromformingontop)andtastingitoccasionally.Onceithassouredandthe
bubblinghasceased(afteraweekormuchlonger),youmayoptionallyaddasmuchas1/4cup(60ml)ofexistingrawapplecidervinegarperquart(liter)tospeeduptherestoftheprocess.Besuretoleaveyourliquidfarfromanyotheropenfermentingculturetopreventcross-contamination.Youcanletitfermentforuptoayearatroomtemperature.Tasteitfromtimetotime.Itisdonewhenthereisnolongeranytraceofsweetness.
Onceit’sdone,applecidervinegarisbestbottledincappedglasscontainers;glassisidealforlong-termstorageofacidicliquids,andcarbondioxidepressurebuildupisnotaconcernwithvinegar,sinceallthesugarisgoneandthere’sverylittlechemicalreactionstillhappening.
Notethatvinegaryoumakethiswaywillnotnecessarilybeasstrongasvinegarthatyoubuyatthestore,whichisadjustedtoastandardizedstrength.Thismeansthatinrecipesthatrelyonspecificaciditylevelsforreasonsofchemistryorfoodsafety(suchascanning),store-boughtvinegarisbest.
JOHNNYAPPLESEED'SAPPLES
JohnnyAppleseed(bornJohnChapman,1774,inLeominster,MA)wasanAmericanfrontierfolkhero,famousforplantinggreatnumbersofappletreesandpreachingthegospel.Aninterestingthingaboutapplesisthattheydonotbreedtrue;forreasonsthatcanbeexplainedbytheoriesofgenetics,theseedsfromthemostwonderful-tastingapplearelikelytodevelopintotreeswithverydifferent,lessdelightful,and,infact,quitesourapples.Thewaytogetpredictableapplesistoclonetrees,andthebestwaytodothatistograftbranchesfromonetreeontoanother.
ButthisisnotwhatJohnnyAppleseedwasdoing.Hewasplantingseeds,whichwouldlikelyresultinsourapples.Andthemostlikelyuseforcommonsourappleswouldbe...formakingcider!
◁PERRYOnceyouhavemasteredAppleCider,Perrywillbeeasybecauseit’smadethesameway.Infact,the
samemethodcanbeappliedtoquincejuiceandmanyotherjuices.Pearsodaandperrystartoff
tastingdecidedlypear-like;thelongerperryferments,thesubtlerthepearflavorwillbecome.
FollowtherecipeforAppleCider.Substitutepearsfortheapples,andifyouwantto,addsome
spices,suchascinnamon,allspice,nutmeg,orcloves,inmoderation.
Notethatsomeofthetimingmightbealittledifferent.Movefromsteptostepbasedonwhatyou
seeandtaste,ratherthanbasingitonanystricttimetable.
BERRYWINEAswe’veseenbynow,therearemanywaystomakefruitwine.Thismethodgivesthewildyeasta
dayortwoandthenaddsinsomepackagedyeast.Itshouldresultinanice,cleanberrywine,with
little“funk.”
YIELD:8TO10SERVINGS
4pounds(2kg)frozenripeberries
4quarts(4L)filteredwater
2pounds(1kg)granulatedsugar
1package(0.2ounces,or5g)wineyeast
Thawtheberriesandmashthemupinacrockorotherlargevessel.Boil2quarts(2L)ofwaterinastockpot.Addthesugarandstiruntil
dissolved.Addtheremaining2quarts(2L)ofwaterandcontinuetostir.Onceitreacheswarmroomtemperature,addthewatertotheberriesinalarge(atleast2gallons[8L])crockorglassjar.Coverwithacleanclothorkitchentowelandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthevessel.
Letitsitatroomtemperature.After24to48hours,addtheyeastandstirtwicedailyfor1week,keepingit
coveredwithcleanclothwhennotstirring.Straintheliquidandpourintooneormorecleancarboysorjugs.Capwith
airlocks.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejug(s).Letitsitatroomtemperatureforatleast1month.
Afteramonthormore,therewillbesedimentandyeastatthebottomofthejugs.Decantorsiphonthewineintonewcleanbottles.Winebottlesorotherflip-topbottlesworkwell.Capthebottlesandletthemsitatroomtemperatureforatleast3months.
◁COUNTRYWINECountrywineisageneraltermforwinemadefromfruit,generallyanykindoffruitexceptforgrapes.Ifyoufindyourselfwithanoverabundanceoffruitandwanttomakeafundrinkforyourself,yourfamily,andyourguests,thismightbejustthething.
YIELD:6TO8SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
2quarts(2L)filteredwater
2cups(400g)granulatedsugar
2cups(450g)finelychopped,unpeeledseasonalfruitBoilthewaterinlargepotoverhighheat.Stirinthesugaruntildissolved.Turnofftheheat.Letcooltobodytemperatureorbelow.Transfertoalargecrockorglassjar.Addthefruit.
Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthevessel.Letitsitatroomtemperature.Uncoverandstirvigorously3timesadayevery
day.Cover.Bubblingactionshouldstartwithin24to72hours.Eachtimeyoustir,more
bubblesshouldappear.Onday5orlater(dependingonthetemperature),whenthebubblingactionslows,strainoutthefruitandtransfertheliquidintoacleanglassjug.Closewithanairlock.Leaveforseveralweeksuntilthebubblinghasdieddowncompletely.Decantorsiphonofftheliquid,leavingbehindasmuchofthesedimentaspossible.(Experimentwitheatingthesedimentifyouwish.)Youcandrinkthewineimmediately;otherwise,bottleitinwinebottles,flip-topGrolsch-stylebottles,cleankombuchabottles,orMasonjarsandrefrigerate.
◁PRISONWINE/HOOCHPrisonwineistheembodimentoftheproverb,“Necessityisthemotherofinvention.”Ifyouare
bored,desperate,and/orcleverenough,youcanfigureouthowtomakewinefromavailable
materials.Ifyoucangetyourhandsonfruitjuice,fruit,packetsofsugar,water,bowls,andbags,you
canmakewine.
YIELD:3SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)
1cup(225g)chopped,ripefruit
3cups(750ml)fruitjuice
1/4cup(50g)granulatedsugarThefirststepistoprefermentthefruit:Placeitinabowl,coverthebowlwithacleanclothorkitchentowel,andsecureitwitharubberbandtodissuadefruitflies.Leavethebowloffruitatroomtemperaturefor24to48hours.Thefruitshouldbegintosmellveryripe,givingoffanalmostalcoholicaroma.
Oncefruitispre-fermented,pourthefruitjuiceinalargemixingbowl.Addthesugarandstirtodissolve.Addthefruit.
Writethedateontheoutsideofacleanzip-topbag.Pourthecontentsofthejar(fruitandjuice)intothebagandcloseit.
Letitsitatroomtemperature.Openeverydayforthefirst5daysandreleasethegas.Closeandgiveitagentlesqueezetomixitup.Continuetofermentfor1to2weeks,tastingeveryfewdays.Afteracoupleofweeks,youwillbegintotastethealcohol.Ifthebaginflatestoomuch,openitagainandletthegasout.Onceitreachesdesiredtaste,strainanddrinkthewine.Bottleandrefrigerateanyleftoverwine.
◁MEADMeadiscertainlyamongtheoldestalcoholicbeverages,datingbacktoaround9000BCEbysome
estimates.Itisalsooneoftheeasiesttobrew.Thisrecipeisforawildmead,meaningthatthereis
noaddedyeast.
Oneparthoneytofourpartswater,byweight,isagoodstartingpoint.Onceyou’vemadeitafew
times,tryvaryingtheratioifyoulike.Abitmorehoneywillresultinastrongerand/orsweetermead.
Ifyouaddspices,herbs,androots,thenyourmeadbecomesavariationknownasmetheglin,which
hasthesamerootasmedicine.Meadsenhancedwithmedicinalplantshavebeenusedasmedicines
foralongtime.
YIELD:1GALLON(4L)
2pounds(1kg)rawhoney
4quarts(4L)filteredwater
Finelychoppedherbs,spices,fruitpeels,driededibleflowers,orotherflavoringsofyourchoice,suchasbayleaves,rosemary,ginger,citruspeels,turmeric,etc.(optional)Dissolvethehoneyinthewater.Pourintoalargeceramicorwidemouthglassvessel.Addtheherbs(ifusing)andstir.Coverthevesselwithacleanclothorkitchentowelandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeontheoutsideofthejar.
Letitsitatroomtemperature.Stirvigorously3timesaday.Therewillbebubblingactionduringthefirstweek.Oncethebubblingaction
beginstodiedown,strainandtransfertoajugorjugsandclosewithanairlock.Leavefor2to4weeks,dependingontemperature,ormuchlonger.Forayoungmead,drinkitwhentherearenomorebubbles.Thelongeryouwaitafterthat,themorealcoholitwillcontainandthelesssweetitwillbe.Ifyoufermentitlongenough,thehoneyflavorwillrecedeintothebackground,anditwillstarttotastealmostlikedrywhitewine.
Tostore,syphontheliquidandpouritintocleanbottlesorjars.Storethebottlesorjarsinacoolplaceforweeksormonths.
VARIATION:ACERGLYN
Acerglynislikemead,butismadefrommaplesyrupinsteadofhoneyorinadditiontohoney.Theprocessisthesame.Andmaplesyrupcontainsapproximatelythesameamountofsweetnessashoneybyweight,socomparableratioswillgivesimilarresults.Acerglynmaytake
longerthanhoneymeadbecausemaplesyrupcontainsmoredisaccharidesthatneedtobecleavedbeforetheycanbefermented(seediscussionshownhere).
◁RICEWINEVariationsonstickyriceandricewinehavebeenpopularinEastAsiaforalongtime.Thisrecipe
emphasizesthewine,butthericeispartofthefun,too.Theleftoversweetricecanbeeatenfor
dessert,butitisalsopopularforbreakfast,perhapswithaboiledegg.Thisseemslikeanicewayto
easeintotheday!
YIELD:VARIES
6cups(1.5L)filteredwater,divided
2cups(500g)uncookedstickyriceorglutinousrice
1ShanghaiyeastballorricewineyeastballWarm3cups(750ml)ofwaterinapotoverlowheattobodytemperature.Removefromtheheat,addthericetothepot,cover,andsoakforonehourormore.Rinseanddrain.
Boiltheremaining3cups(750ml)waterinapot.Addtherice,lowerheattoasimmer,cover,andcook15to20minutesuntilallthewaterisabsorbed.
Spreadoutthecookedstickyriceinalargebowltocooltoroomtemperature.Pulverizetheyeastballwithyourhandsandspreadovertherice.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandtakewhatevermeasuresyoucanto
keepthebowlataround73°F(23°C).Ifitiswarmerorcolder,itwillstillferment,butthisisthebesttemperature.Tocontrolthetemperature,wrapthebowlinalargetowelandputitinabigcoolerorsomeotherenclosedspace(likeyouroven,ifyouaren’tusingit!).After4to5days,itshouldbefullofliquid.Ifnot,letitsitforafewmoredays.
Thatliquidisthericewine.Oncethereisagoodamountofit,pouritintoaMasonjar.Spoonthericeintoacheeseclothandsqueezeitthroughastrainertogetmoreoftheliquid,whichcanbeaddedintothesamejar.
Closethejarwithalidandrefrigerateit.Servechilled.Savethestickyriceintherefrigeratorandeatitasadessertorasazingy
breakfastporridge.
◁SPARKLINGCOUNTRYWINEUsingasecondaryfermentation,wetransformcountrywineintocountrychampagne!
YIELD:ALITTLEMORETHAN2QUARTS(2L)
SYRUP
1cup(250ml)filteredwater
1/2cup(100g)granulatedsugarWINE
1cup(250ml)syrup
2quarts(2L)CountryWine,BerryWine,orHooch
SYRUP
Heatthewateroverlowheatinasmallsaucepan.Stirinthesugaruntildissolved.Removefromtheheatandletcooltobodytemperatureorbelow.
WINE
Mixthesyrupandthewine.Pourthesweetenedwineintoflip-topGrolsch-styleorbeerbottlesandcap.Storeatroomtemperature(65°Fto70°F[18°Cto21°C])for5to10days.After5days,openonebottle,observethelevelofcarbonation,andtasteit.Ifitisnotbubbly,closethebottle,leaveitforanotherfewdays,andtryagainthen.Repeatuntilit’ssparklingandbubby,atwhichpointitisreadytodrinkorrefrigerate.Whenopening,becarefulnottoshakevigorously,asitcanmakeamess!
CHAPTERTWELVE
MEXICANPRE-HISPANICDRINKSPULQUE
COLONCHE
TEPACHE
TEJUINO
Asdidmanycultures,pre-Hispanicpeoplespreserved
theirfoodviafermentation,oftenviafermenteddrinks.
That’showtheysavedcorn,fruit,andotheragricultural
products,givingthemrichflavorsandincreased
nutritionalvaluealongtheway.
Aswithmanyancestraltraditions,theprocessesfor
preparingfermenteddrinksaresimple,inexpensive,and
safe,inhibitingthegrowthofpathogenicbacteria.
ItissadtoseethesebeveragesbecomescarcerinMexicoandtherestoftheworldaspeopleturntomass-producedsugarysodas.Youcanmaketheseforyourselfathomeinsteadofbuyingfactory-producedsodas.SomeofthemostpopularMexicanpre-Hispanicfermenteddrinksarepulque
(madefromaguamiel,thesapofthemaguey),tepache(madefrompineappleandpiloncillosugar),tejuino(fromnixtamalorcornmasa),andcolonche(madefrompricklypear).
HISTORYOFPULQUEBeforebeer,therewaspulque.Inpre-Hispanictimes,pulquewasthedrinkoftheGods.Itwasconsumedby
priestsandmembersoftheroyalfamilyduringtheirrituals.Oldmenandwomen,retiredfromactivelife,werealsoallowedtodrinkandenjoyit.Andprisonerscouldinebriatethemselveswithitbeforebeingputtodeath.Drinkingpulquewasgenerallyforbiddenforanybodyelse,andbeingdrunk
wasapunishableoffense.Repeatoffenderswerecondemnedtodie—beaten,
stoned,orhanged.Onlyonspecialoccasions,suchasthefestivitiesfortheGodsofWine,wereallthecitizens,includingchildren,allowedtodrinkpulqueuntildrunk.AftertheSpanishconquest,punishmentsfordrinkingpulqueended,so
indigenouspeoplecontinuedtodrinkit,notonlytogetdrunk,butasadietarysupplement.Sometimes,pulquewastheonlydrinkavailable,andbeingafermenteddrink,itcontainedhealthfulvitaminsandenzymes.Becauseitwasunfiltered,itcontainedsomeamountsofproteintoo,fromtheyeast.Duringthistime,pulquecommerceincreaseduntilitbecameaprofitablelocal
business.ButaftertheMexicanRevolution,pulquefaceditsnemesis:beer,whichwaseasierandcheapertomanufacture,hencemoreprofitable.Barleyandwheatdisplacedmaguey.Tosupportthebeerbrewingindustry,theMexicangovernmentimposednewregulationsdiscouragingpulquecommerceandevenpropagatedarumorthatpulquewasmadeusingfecesasastarter.Atoughcompetitor,negativepropaganda,andthedifficultyoftransportand
distributionalmostledtothedemiseofpulque.Thenumberofpulquerías(pulquebars)inMexicodecreasedfromoverathousandatthebeginningofthetwentiethcenturytomaybeonlyahundredatthebeginningofthiscentury.
WHERETOGETFRESHPULQUEDistributingpulqueatscaleisquitedifficult,asitcontinuestofermentevenafterbottling.Therehavebeenseveralcommercialattempts,buttheyhavefailed—pulquecanshaveexplodedinsupermarketaisles!Upuntilnow,theeasiestwaytoenjoypulquehasbeentotakeitfreshoutofthefermentationbucketinapulquería.PulqueríasarenowmakingacomebackinMexico.Andgiventheappetiteof
NorthAmericansfornewfoodsanddrinks,andthespeedwithwhichtrendsspreadnowadays,itisonlyamatteroftimebeforepulquemakesitswayintothebarculturenorthoftheborder.Thebiggestbarriersarethedifficultyoftransportingpulque,asmentionedabove,andthelengthoftimeittakesforthemagueyplanttomature.
PULQUETERMINOLOGY
•Tlachiquero:Thisissomeonewhotakescareofthemagueyplant.
•Aguamiel:Thisisthesapofthemagueyplant.
•Acocote:Thisistheinstrumentusedtocollectaguamiel.
Theprocessofmakingpulquebeginswiththemagueyplant,whichtakes12to15yearstofullydevelop.Justwhenthecactusisabouttoflower,thetlachiquerocutstheflowerstem.
(Don’tfeelbadforthemaguey—itcanonlyliveforalimitedtimeafteritstartstoflower,whetherornotitsflowerstemiscut.)Severalmonthsaftertheflowerstemiscut,thetlachiquerowillscrapethebaseofthemaguey,andastheplanttriestohealitself,itwillproduceaguamiel.Thetlachiquerousestheacocotetoextracttheaguamielandpouritintoatub.Afterextraction,thetlachiquerowillagainscrapethesurfacewithaknifefor
anewbatchofaguamiel.Iftheplantisleftwithnowound,thentherewillbenoaguamiel,asthemagueyhealsitselfbyproducingthesap.Eachmagueyplantcanproduceseveralbatchesofaguamielperday,everydayforuptoayear,beforetheplantdies.Thefreshlycollectedsapgoesstraightintoabigbucketofpreviously-
fermentedaguamielcalledtheseedorpulquemother.Fermentationstartsimmediately.Asaguamielisbeingpouredintothebucket,itisaerated.Durationforfermentationdependsontheproducer.Itcanbehoursordays.
MAKINGYOUROWNPULQUEYes,youcanturnyourkitchenintoapulquería.Thealcoholcontentmaynotbeashighastraditionallyproducedpulque,butatleastyoucansamplethetaste.Forthebestpracticalapproximation,werecommendbuyingunheated,
unfiltered,concentratedmagueysapandmixingitwithwater,asdescribedbelow.Thebestsourcewe’vefoundistheVilladePatosbrand.
NOTEONAGAVENECTAR:Commercialagavenectaristypicallyheated,filtered,andgenerallyquiteprocessed.Itwillfermentjustlikeanysweetliquidwill,buttheresultswillnotbepulque.
PULQUEYIELD:3CUPS(750ML)
3cups(750ml)filteredwater
1cup(325g)unrefinedmagueysweetsap(notagavenectar)
PourthewaterintoaMasonjar.Addthemagueysapandstiruntildissolved.Coverthejarwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.
Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor5daysupto3weeks,dependingonambienttemperature.
Youcanstarttastingatday3.Itshouldstarttastingsour.Onceyouliketheflavor,transfertobottles.PlasticBPA-freebottlesarehighlyrecommended.Rememberthatpulquecontinuestoferment!Closetightlyandrefrigerate.
VARIATION:PULQUEWITHMILKKEFIRGRAINS
Addingmilkkefirgrainscanhelpyourfermentationalong.DavidAsher,authorofTheArtofNaturalCheesemaking,didthiswithrawaguamieldemagueyduringavisittoMexico,andhepassedonhisrecipe:
Add1teaspoonofmilkkefirgrainspreviouslyrinsedinnonchlorinatedwaterto1cup(325g)ofaguamieldemagueyand3cups(750ml)ofwater,asabove.Closethelidandletitfermentfor24to72hours,dependingonthetemperature.Oncetheaguamielisfermented,itwillbethickerandtasteofpulque.
◁COLONCHEColoncheisapre-Hispanicdrinkmadebyfermentingthepulpoftheredpricklypearfruit.Thus,
coloncheisanothercactuswine.ThisversionisbyErnestoFato.
YIELD:8SERVINGS
41/2pounds(2kg)matureredpricklypears
1/4cup(60ml)lukewarmwater
2gramsdryyeast
1/4cup(50g)sugar
Peeleachpricklypearbycuttingofftheends,stickingaforkinit,slittingtheskinfromendtoend,andremovingit.Crushthefruitwithamortarandpestle,tryingtoavoidbreakingtheseeds.Breakingtheseedssoursthejuice.(Usingablenderisnotrecommendedforthisreason.)
Strainthejuiceintoamixingbowlusingaclothorstrainer.Inanotherbowl,stirtogetherthewarm(aroundbodytemperature)waterand
yeast.Stirinthesugaruntildissolved.Pourtheyeastmixtureintoaglassorceramiccontainer.Stirthepricklypearjuiceintotheyeastmixture.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthecontainer.
Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor3to5days,dependingonthetemperature.Tasteit.Thereshouldbeanalcoholicfruityflavor.Bottle,cap,andrefrigerate
itwhenit’sready.Servechilled.
◁TEPACHETepache,afermentedpineapplebeverage,isasignaturedrinkforMexicans.InsomepartsofMexico,
ifyouarelucky,youmaystillfindtepachevendorsinthestreets,butitspopularityhasbeen
decliningamongyoungergenerations.SoyoucanimagineRaquel’sjoyfulsurprisewhenshe
stumbledupona2014BonAppetitarticletitled“WhyYouShouldbeDrinkingTepacheCocktails!”As
anodtoherpre-Hispanicroots,sheishappytoshareherTepacherecipehere,foryournextcocktail.
YIELD:ABOUT4TO6SERVINGS,DEPENDINGONTHESIZEOFTHEPINEAPPLE
Outerpeelof1pineapple(eattherestofthepineappleorrefrigerateitforanotheruse)
Filteredwater
1cup(200g)panelaorbrownsugar
1cinnamonstick
3or4wholeclovesand/orstaranise
Placethepineapplepeelsinahalfgallonto1gallon(2to4L)Masonjarorceramiccontainer.Addfilteredwatertothevesseltocoverthepeels.
Dissolvethepanelainabout1cup(250ml)lukewarmwaterandpouritintothecontainer.Addthecinnamonandcloves.Stir.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthecontainer.
Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor3to5days.Trytastingonday3.Thewarmertheroom,thequickeritwillferment.When
itstartstastinglesssweetandmoretart,itisdone.Pourthetepachethroughastrainerintoajarorbottleswithairtightlids.Refrigerateandservecold.
PINEAPPLETIPS&TRICKS
•Iftepachefermentsfortoolongandstartstastingvinegary,letitcontinuetofermentforawhilemore,andyouwillhaveadeliciouspineapplevinegar!
•Ifyoueatpineapplewithanyfrequency,apineappleslicer/decorerwillmakeyourlifeeasier.
•Ifyouarecarefulwiththepineapplecorer,youmaybeabletostopturningbeforeyoucutthroughthebottom,creatingahollowpineapplesuitableforuseasamugforjuiceordrinks!Ofcourse,ifyouwanttofillitwithtepache,youwillneedtomakethetepacheaheadoftimeusingadifferentpineapple.
◁TEJUINOTejuinoisapre-HispanicfermentedcorndrinkstillpopularinthewesternstatesofMexico.Itissaid
thatTejuinocomesfromtheNahuatlwordtecuin,whichmeans“tobeat.”Drinkingtejuinocreatesjoy,
thusprovokingthehearttobeatfaster.
YIELD:ABOUT3QUARTS(3L)
FORTEJUINO
3quarts(3L)plus1cup(250ml)water
2pounds(1kg)piloncillo(alsocalledpanela)
2pounds(1kg)wetcornmasadough(masapreparada)
OR
3cups(350g)masaharina(drymasaflour)plus2cups(500ml)water
Juiceof2limes
FORSERVING
Ice
Seasalt
Limejuice
Bring3quarts(3L)ofwatertoaboilinpotoverhighheat.Stirinthepiloncillountildissolved.
Mixthemasaharinawith1cup(250ml)ofwaterusingyourhandsorafoodprocessorandaddittothepiloncillowater.Stirwell.Letitcooltoroomtemperature.Addthelimejuice.Pourintoaglassorceramicvessel.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthevessel.
Letitsitfor3daysatroomtemperature.Pourofftheliquidandsaveit;thatisyourtejuino!Chillandserveoverice,withabitofsaltandlimejuicemixedin.
HOWTOMAKEMASADOUGH
Tomakemasadoughfromdrymasaflour,combine3cups(350g)drymasaharinawith2cups(500ml)ofwater.Mixthoroughlyandletsitforatleast15minutes.
Masadoughanddrymasaflourareavailableinmanyvarieties.Forthisrecipe,ifyouhaveachoicebetweenmasafortortillasandmasafortamales,werecommendthemasafortortillas.Yellowandwhitemasaworkequallywell.
Wehighlyrecommendnon-GMOmasa.Unfortunately,intheUnitedStates,thebiggestbrandsareallGMO.MexicocurrentlybansgrowingGMOcorn.ThebrandthatwerecommendintheUnitedStatesisBob’sRedMill.Theypledgethattheirproductsarenon-GMO,tothebestoftheirknowledge.OrganicproductsarenotallowedtobeGMO,soanyorganicmasayoucanfindwillautomaticallybenon-GMOtoo.
Marketsandregulationschangefromtimetotime,soifGMOisaconcernforyou,asitisforus,youmayneedtodosomeresearch.
CHAPTERTHIRTEEN
FERMENTEDCOCKTAILSUR-PIÑACOLADA
TEPACHEHIGHBALL
CALIENTE
TEPACHESMASH
KOMBUCHASANGRIA
KOMBUCHAMEZCAL
KOMBUCHACARAJILLO
KOMBUCHASHANDY
LOUISCK/KANSASCITY
KIMCHIBLOODYMARY
SAUERKRAUTMICHELADA
KIMCHIMICHELADA
HIBISCUSMEZCAL
ORANGINAMARGARITA
APPLECIDERMARGARITA
APPLECIDERBELLINI
GINGERALEALAMEXICANA
GINGERALECRANBERRYVODKA
Aswe’veseen,fermentationandhumanshavealonghistorytogether,andfermenteddrinkshave
beenaroundforalongtime.Essentiallyallthealcoholthathumansconsumeistheresultof
fermentation,eitherdirectlyorconcentratedviaaprocessknownasdistilling.
Yeastisresponsibleforconvertingsugarintoalcohol,butyeastitselfhasonlyalimitedtoleranceforalcohol;ifthecircumstancesareright,yeastwillproduceenoughalcoholtopoisonitself!Differentyeastshavedifferentthresholds.Themostextremeyeastscansurviveupto25%ABV,butthisisunusual.Mostyeastscannotgetevencloseto25%,andmostfermenteddrinksarenowherenearthisstrong.
Wildfermenteddrinkstendtohaveloweralcoholcontentsthandrinksmadewithdomesticatedyeasts,bothbecausewildyeastshavelowertolerancesandbecausewildfermentsgenerallyincorporatesomepopulationofaceticacid-producingbacteria.Thatmeansthatwhiletheyeastisproducingalcohol,thebacteriaareconvertingsomeofitintoacid.Industrialwineandbeerproductionisdoneundermorecarefullycontrolledconditions,anditusesdomesticatedcultivatedyeastsdevelopedforhigheralcoholtolerances,somodernwineswithalcoholconcentrationsof13%oreven15%arenotunusual.Beerswithcomparablelevelsofalcoholarebecomingmorepopulartoo.
MEASURINGALCOHOL
Thethreecommonlyusedmeasuresofalcoholarealcoholbyvolume(ABV),alcoholbyweight(ABW),andproof.
Atlowalcoholconcentrations,ABWisabout80%ofABV.Athigherconcentrations,therelationshipgetsmorecomplicated.Sobeerthatis3.2%ABW,forinstance,isapproximately4.0%ABV.ThereareafewstatesintheUnitedStatesthathaveseparatelawsgoverningbeerthatis3.2%ABWandbelow.ThisregulatorystructureisleftoverfromtherepealofProhibition.ThisbeerisontheweakersideofwhatpeopleoftendrinkintheUnitedStates,butisnotunusualinotherbeer-drinkingcountries.
IntheUnitedStates,proofisdefinedtobedoubleABVexpressedasapercentage.Soadrinkthatis40%ABVis80proof.Otherplacesdefineproofdifferently;intheU.K.,forexample,proofisapproximately1.75timesABVasapercentage.Therearehistoricalreasonsforthesevariousdefinitions.
Wildfermenteddrinksareoftenunfiltered,whilemodernindustrialdrinksarealmostalwaysfiltered.Thethingslostthroughfilteringincludenutrients,Bvitaminsamongthem,thatmaysupportliverfunction;thusunfiltered,wilddrinksarelikelytobeeasieronourbodiesthanindustriallyproducedones,bothbecauseoftheirloweralcoholandbecausetheyincludetheirown“hangoverhelper.”Rememberthisthenexttimeyouhaveahangover!Havingsaidthis,ifwearewillingtotaketheriskandpossiblysufferthe
consequences,howcanwegetdrinkswithhigheralcoholconcentrationsthanareachievableviafermentationalone,evenfermentationwithdomesticatedsuper-yeasts?Generally,wegetstrongerdrinksbytakingadvantageofthefactthatalcohol
boils,orfreezes,atlowertemperaturesthanwaterdoes.Thisallowsustoseparateoutalcoholandwaterviafractionalfreezingorfractionaldistillation.
Fractionalfreezing,becauseitrequiresnospecialstools,iseasytodoathome.Partiallyfreezeyourdrink;theicecrystalsthatformwillcontainaproportionallyhigherconcentrationofwater,andtheremainingliquidwillhaveaproportionallyhigherconcentrationofalcoholandotherdrinkcomponents.Thisprocessisknowncolloquiallyas“jacking;”ifyoudoitwithhardcider,theresultingdrinkisknownas“applejack.”Youcanusethistechniquetogethigheralcohollevels,butopinionsdifferabouthowsafeitis.Alongwiththedesiredethanol,othercomponentsofthedrinkgetconcentratedtoo,someofthempotentiallyproblematic—methanolforinstance,alsoknownaswoodalcohol,whichcancauseblindnessanddeathifconsumedinlargeamounts.Ifyoudochoosetoexperiment,rememberthatwaterexpandswhenitfreezes,soloosenorremoveanylidsorcapsbeforetryingthis.Cleaningbrokenglassoutofafreezerisnotfun—we’vedoneit!Onalargerscale,higheralcoholconcentrationsaregenerallyachievedvia
fractionaldistillation.Thisinvolvesheatingtheliquidmixturesothatpartsofit(fractions)evaporate,orboiloff—thatis,changefromaliquidintoagas.Differentpartsboiloffatdifferenttemperatures.Thepartthatboilsoffinaspecifictemperaturerangeiscollectedandcooledandcondensesbackintoaliquid.Ethanolboilsatitsowndistincttemperature,sobycontrollingthetemperatureandcollectingthecondensate,it’spossibletoboiloff(mostly)thealcoholthatwewantandthencondenseitbackintoaliquidelsewhere.Whatdoesthishavetodowithcocktails?Thesedays,cocktailsarealmostalwaysmadefromdistilledalcohol.The
exception,popularwithestablishmentsthataren’tlicensedtosellstrongalcohol,arecocktailsmadefromwines,beers,sojus,andsakes.Fermenteddrinksofferabroadrangeofsourandspicyflavorsthatbegtobe
turnedintococktailsfortheadventurous.Whynotmakecocktailsthatincludefermentedfoodsanddrinksoutsidetheusualones?
UR-PIÑACOLADAThemodernPiñaColada,containingpineapplejuice,coconutcream,andrum,isquitedelicious,but
canalsobequitesweet,anddrinkingtoomanycanleadtoregretsthenextday.Whatifwecould
makeaprobioticversionofthedrinkwithlessalcohol,lesssugar,andmorevitamins?Wecan.And
wecanalsospeculatethatperhapsinthelandsofcoconutsandpineapple,peopleweredrinking
coconutwater(freshorfermented)alongsidepineapple(freshorfermented)withoutrumforquite
sometime,beforethe“official”inventionofthemodernPiñaColadainthenineteenthortwentieth
century.Wecanenjoythekinder,gentlerPiñaColadatoday,andinfact,wecanenjoyitallday,
withouttoomuchriskofgettingtoodrunk.Orwecanhavethebestofbothworlds,oldandnew,by
combiningthefermentedtropicaldrinkswithashotofrum.
YIELD:ABOUT12OUNCES(375ML)
Ice
4ounces(125ml)CoconutSodaKefir,freshcoconutwater,coconutmilk,orcoconutcream4ounces(125ml)Tepache
1shot(11/2fluidounces,or45ml)rumorspicedrum(optional)Fillacocktailshakerwithice,coconutwater,tepache,andrum(ifusing).Shakeandstrainintoachilledglasswithsomemoreice.Serveimmediately.
TEPACHEHIGHBALLAhighballistypicallyashotofastrongdrinkmixedintoatallglassofasofterdrink.Thefirst
officialhighballmayhavebeenthescotchandsoda,aroundthebeginningofthetwentiethcentury.
Thetermballwasusedtosignifyadrinkofwhiskeyandhighbecauseitwasservedinatallglass!
Theformulahasspreadwidelysince,inmanyvariations.Forsomethingnew,trythisTepache
Highball.
YIELD:ABOUT12OUNCES(375ML)
8ounces(250ml)Tepache
1shot(11/2fluidounces,or45ml)ofmezcal1teaspoonaguamieldemaguey,maplesyrup,ormolasses,ortotasteIce
1splashofclubsoda
Pineapplewedge
Chapulín,ant,orwormsalt,orplainsalt
Stirthetepache,mezcal,andaguamieldemagueyinahighballglassuntilwellmixed.Fillaglasswithiceandtopwithclubsoda.Addapineapplewedgeandsprinklewithsalt.Serve.
(UN)COMMONMEXICANSALTS
Enjoythesesaltsthathavebeenaroundsincepre-Hispanictimes.Formoreinformation,visitwww.companiadesales.com.
•SaldeHormiga,alsoknownasantsalt,ismadewithpowderedblackants.
•SaldeGusano,alsoknownaswormsalt,ismadewithgroundupagaveworms.
•SaldeChapulin,alsoknownasgrasshoppersalt,ismadewithpowderedgrasshoppers.
CALIENTECalienteistheSpanishwordfor“hot,”anditmeanshotinbothsenses:weatheranddesires.This
cocktail,involvingtepache,gingerbeer,andhotpeppersauce,canhelpbothkeepoutthecoldand
raiseyourpassions.
YIELD:ABOUT12OUNCES(375ML)
Saltforrim,plain,seasoned,orsmoked
2ounces(60ml)Tepache
8ounces(250ml)GingerBeer
Crushedice
Dashofhotpeppersauce
Salttherimofatallglass.Pourthetepacheandgingerbeerintotheglass.Addcrushediceandpepper
sauce.Stirandserve.
TEPACHESMASHWenamedthiscocktailTepacheSmashbecausedrinkingitfeelslikedivingintotheCaribbeanSea
inahotsummerday.
YIELD:ABOUT12OUNCES(375ML)
8ounces(250ml)Tepache
1shot(11/2fluidounces,or45ml)ofginCrushedice
Pourthetepacheandginintoachilledglass.Addcrushedice.Stirandserve.
KOMBUCHASANGRIASangriaistypicallypreparedbymixingredwinewithlemonadeandaddingchunksoffruit.Itisgood
forsummertimewhenredwinealonecanfeeltooheavy.Thisisasangriatwist—lesssugarand
moreprobioticcontent.
YIELD:1SERVING
8ounces(250ml)unflavoredKombucha
2to4ounces(60to125ml)redwine
2tablespoons(30g)choppedfruitorfruitcocktail
Ice(optional)
Pourthekombuchaandredwineintoalargewineglass.Stirgently.Addthefruitandice(ifusing).Serve.
KOMBUCHAMEZCALMezcalisadistilledalcoholdrinkfromtheagaveplant.IttypicallycomesfromoneofMexico’smost
beautifulstates,Oaxaca.Ithasasmokytasteandismorecomplexthantequila.Ifmezcalisdrunkby
itself,itisoftenaccompaniedbysomelime,orangeslices,andchilipowder—oreventastierwith
warmsalt.Itisbestsippedandenjoyed,notchuggedwildlyasifatabachelorparty.
KombuchaMezcalisperfecttointroducemezcaltoyourtastebuds.Itgiveskombuchaanextrakick
andahintofseduction.
YIELD:1SERVING
8ounces(250ml)berry-flavoredKombucha(seehere)1ounce(30ml)mezcal
Crushedice
Pourthekombuchaandmezcalintoalargewineglass.Stirgently.Addcrushediceandserve.
KOMBUCHACARAJILLOWelovecarajilloasadigestivedrinkinMexicoafterabigmeal.Atypicalcarajilloispreparedby
mixingLicor43(verysweetandhighalcoholcontent),espresso,andlotsofice.
YIELD:1SERVING
1/2cup(125ml)CoffeeKombuchaorregularKombucha
2ounces(60ml)Licor43
Crushedice
Pourthekombuchaintoanoldfashionedglass.StirintheLicor43andcrushedice.Serve.
KOMBUCHASHANDYThisisasimplerecipe:Addsomeflavoredkombuchatoyourfavoritebeer.Wesuggestaginger-or
citrus-flavoredkombucha,combinedwithalightbeerorlager.Thisway,boththekombuchaandthe
beercomethrough.But,ofcourse,youarefreetoexperimentandseewhatyoulikebest.
Thisisagreatdrinkforawarmsummerafternoon,orforearlyevening,sinceit’snottoostrong.It
tasteslikesweetandsourbeer!
YIELD:12OUNCES(375ML)
6ounces(175ml)beer
6ounces(175ml)Kombucha
Ice(optional)
Pourthebeerintoatallglass.Stirinthekombucha.Stirgently.Addiceifdesired.Serve.
LOUISCK/KANSASCITYCombiningtheaperitifanddigestifpowersofCampariandkombucha,thisdrinkisgreatbeforea
meal,afterameal,orforsippingatyourfavoritecomedycluborjazzclub.Dialitinsothatthe
sweet,sour,andbitternotesarebalancedperfectlyforyourpalate.
YIELD:1SERVING
Ice
6ounces(175ml)plainorflavoredkombucha,suchasberry,grape,orpear(seehereorhere)1shot(11/2fluidounces,or45ml)ofCampari,ortotasteFillatallglasswithiceandpourthekombuchaoverit.StirintheCampariandserve.
KIMCHIBLOODYMARYTheBloodyMarycocktailasweknowittodaywasprobablycreatedbyFernandPetiotin1921atthe
NewYorkBarinParis,whichlaterbecameHarry’sNewYorkBar,acommonhauntofErnest
Hemmingway.
Itwentthroughafewnames,includingBucketofBloodandRedSnapper,beforesettlingonBloody
Mary.Accordingtooneexplanation,thefamousspicytomatojuiceandvodkacocktailwasnamed
afterQueenMaryIofEnglandwhosenicknamewasBloodyMary.
AnotherexplanationofthenameisthatthenameBloodyMarywasamispronunciationofthename
Vladimir,afterVladimirSmirnoff,whosevodkalikelygracedtheearlydrinks.
Decadeslater,intheearly1940s,Lifemagazinedescribedavodka–tomatojuicecocktailnamedthe
RedHammer.ThisnamecannothaveplayedwellonceU.S.andRussiarelationssouredinthelate
1940s!
TheregularBloodyMaryhasareputationasahangovertonic;theKimchiBloodyMarycanonlybe
better,sincekimchijuicehassignificantlymorevitaminsandenzymesthancanned,deadtomato
juice.
YIELD:1SERVING
3/4cup(175ml)kimchijuice1ounce(30ml)vodka
Crushedice
1celerystick(optional)
Pourthekimchijuiceandvodkaintoalargeglass.Stir.Addcrushediceandacelerystick(ifusing)andserve.
◁KIMCHIMICHELADATheMicheladaisatypicalMexicanalcoholicdrinkmadewithbeer,sourjuices,spices,andlime.You
canthinkofitasaBloodyMarymadewithbeerinsteadofvodka.Useanybeeryoulike,butwe
preferlagersandlighterbeersthataren’theavilyhopped.
Likemanydrinks,itissaidtobetheperfectcureforanastyhangover.ThecasefortheKimchi
Micheladaisstrongerbecauseofthetonicpropertiesoffermentedjuice.Kimchiwillgivethis
versionaspicytwistplusashotofprobiotics.
YIELD:1SERVING
Seasaltorwormsalt(optional)
8ounces(250ml)beer
1/4cup(60ml)kimchijuiceCrushedice
Celerystick(optional)
Salttherimofatallglass(ifsalting).Addthebeerandkimchijuice.Addcrushediceandacelerystick(ifusing).Stir.
SAUERKRAUTMICHELADAForpeoplewhowanttotryaprobioticmicheladabutdonotlikespicybeverages,thisistheperfect
blend.
YIELD:1SERVING
Seasaltorwormsalt(optional)
8ounces(250ml)beer
1/4cup(60ml)sauerkrautjuiceCrushedice
Salttherimofatallglass(ifsalting).Pourinthebeerandsauerkrautjuice.Addcrushedice.Stirandserve.
HIBISCUSMEZCALAswiththeKombuchaMezcal,preparingthiscocktailcanslowlyintroduceyoutosavoringmezcal.It
isabeautifullyrefreshingdrinkforsummerparties.
YIELD:1SERVING
8ounces(250ml)HibiscusSoda
1ounce(30ml)mezcal
Crushedice
Pourthehibiscussodaandmezcalintoalargewineglass.Addcrushediceandserve.
ORANGINAMARGARITAThisistheperfectmarriagebetweenFranceandMexico.Itwouldn’tbeapropercocktailchapter
withoutamargaritarecipe!Withthisprobioticmargarita,youcansipguiltlesslyunderthesun,by
thepool,orbesidetheocean.
YIELD:1SERVING
6ounces(175ml)Orangina
1ounce(30ml)mezcalortequila
1teaspoongranulatedsugar
Splashoflimejuice
Ice
Blendtheorangina,mezcal,sugar,limejuice,andiceinablender.Pourintoatallglassandserve.
APPLECIDERMARGARITAItwouldn’tbeapropercocktailchapterwithoutamargaritarecipe!Withthisprobioticmargarita,you
cansipguiltlesslyunderthesun,bythepool,orbesidetheocean.
YIELD:1SERVING
Ice
6ounces(175ml)pomegranatejuice,freshorfermented1ounce(30ml)mezcalortequila
1teaspoongranulatedsugar
Splashoflimejuice
1tablespoon(15ml)fermentedAppleCider
Blendtheiceandallotheringredientsinablender.Pourintoamargaritaglassandserve.
APPLECIDERBELLINI(CELLINI)TheBellinidrinkwasinventedbythebartenderGiuseppeCiprianiatHarry’sBarinVenice.Thebar
wasopenedin1931byCiprianiandanAmericannamedHarryPickering.ThissameCiprianithat
laterbuilttheCiprianiHotelinVenice.ThisstorywastoldtoRaquelbyAdrianMourby,award-
winningwriterandproducer,journalist,andhotelhistorianwhilesippingBellinisatHarry’sBar.It
wasnamedBelliniafterthefamousRenaissanceItalianpainterGiovanniBellini.
AsIlearned,Bellinisaremadewithonlyprosecco(sparklingItalianwine)andpeachpurée.So,we
decidedtointroduceanewnamefortheciderversion:Cellini.Perhaps,someday,Harry’sBarwill
decidetoserveCellinis.
YIELD:1SERVING
8ounces(250ml)sparklingwineorprosecco
1tablespoon(15ml)fermentedAppleCider
Crispappleslicestogarnish
Pourthesparklingwineintoachampagneglass,addtheapplecider,andgarnishwiththeslicedapples.Serve.
GINGERALEALAMEXICANAGingeraleisnotwidelyconsumedinMexico,butwethoughtthatincorporatingtequilaormezcal
couldhelpmorepeopletryit.
YIELD:1SERVING
Ice
8ounces(250ml)GingerBeer
1ounce(30ml)mezcalortequila
Splashoflimejuice
Fillatallglasswithice.Pourinthegingerbeer,mezcal,andlimejuice.Serve.
GINGERALECRANBERRYVODKAThisisaproperEnglish-Russianmixwithprobioticcontentandtheantioxidantpowerofcranberries.
YIELD:1SERVING
8ounces(250ml)GingerBeer
4ounces(125ml)cranberryjuice
1ounce(30ml)vodka
Crushedice
Pourthegingerbeer,cranberryjuice,andvodkaintoatallglass.Addcrushediceandserve.
RESOURCES
FORMOREONFERMENTINGFOODS:
■RealFoodFermentation(Lewin)■TheArtofFermentationandWildFermentation(Katz)■WildFermentation:www.wildfermentation.com
■TheArtofNaturalCheesemaking(Asher)■TheBlackSheepSchoolofCheesemaking:www.theblacksheepschool.com■CulturesforHealth:www.culturesforhealth.com■NourishingTraditions(Fallon)
FORMOREONKOMBUCHA:
■TheBigBookofKombucha(CrumandLaGory)■Kombucha:TheBalancingAct:http://users.bestweb.net/~om/kombucha_balance■KombuchaKamp:www.kombuchakamp.com■Kombucha—HealthyBeverageandNaturalRemedyfromtheFarEast(Frank)
FORMOREONTHESCIENCEBEHINDFERMENTATION:■TheBotanyofDesire(Pollan)
■GutandPsychologySyndrome(Campbell-McBride)■NutritionandPhysicalDegeneration(WestonA.Price)■“OriginsofMajorHumanInfectiousDiseases”
■ImprovingFoodSafetyThroughaOneHealthApproach(InstituteofMedicine)
FORMOREONFERMENTATIONINACULTURALCONTEXT:■FermentedFruitsandVegetables:AGlobalPerspective(BattcockandAzam-Ali)■Guns,Germs,andSteel(Diamond)
■TheWestonA.PriceFoundation:www.westonaprice.org■“TheWorstMistakeintheHistoryoftheHumanRace”Discovermagazine,5/2/87
TOFINDSUPPLIES:
Ifthere’sahomebrewstorenearyou,it’sworthvisitingandchattingwiththesalespeople,whoareoftenenthusiasticfermenterswillingtofieldyourquestions.Someofthelargerequipment(e.g.,bigjugs)arebestboughtinperson.
■Amazon:www.amazon.com■Craigslist:www.craigslist.org■KombuchaKamp:www.kombuchakamp.com
■“RawMilkNation,”Farm-to-ConsumerLegalDefenseFund:www.farmtoconsumer.org/raw-milk-nation-interactive-map
■RedditFindaSCOBYboard:http://reddit.com/r/findascoby■YeastBankatWhiteLabs:www.whitelabs.com/yeast-bank/
TOGETINVOLVEDINTHEFERMENTATIONCOMMUNITY:■Facebookgroups:WildFermentation;PuraFermentación;KombuchaNation:Cultures,Health,andHealing!;KombuchaKitchenPrivateCommunity;BostonCultureSharingVisithttp://resources.KombuchaKefirandBeyond.comforanexpandedlistofresources.
ABOUTTHEAUTHORS
ALEXLEWIN,agraduateoftheCambridgeSchoolofCulinaryArtsandtheInstituteforIntegrativeNutrition,seekstocreateahealthierandtastierworldbyspreadingthewordaboutfermentationandrealfood.HeteachesfermentationclassesandworkshopsandservedontheboardoftheBostonPublicMarketAssociation,wherehehelpedcreateayear-roundindoormarketsellinglocalfood.HelivesinBostonandSanFrancisco.Visithisblogatwww.FeedMeLikeYouMeanIt.com.
RAQUELGUAJARDO,agraduateoftheInstituteforIntegrativeNutrition,runsacookingschoolinMonterey,Mexico,specializinginfermentation.Shealsosupportslocal,organic,andsustainablefarming.Shestartedherownbrandofkombuchaandfermentedvegetables,whichcanbefoundinstoresinseveralMexicancities.Herwebsiteiswww.raquelguarjardo.com.
RECIPEDIRECTORY
5FIVE-MINUTERECIPESSweetLassi
SaltyorSavoryLassi
Doogh
SaltyFermentedLemonadeorLimeade
Switchel
Sekanjabin
6STARTERS,MASTERRECIPES,ANDGENERALPRINCIPLESMasterRecipe:GingerBug
MasterRecipe:Yogurt
MasterRecipe:MilkKefir
MasterRecipe:Whey
MasterRecipe:Vinegar
MasterRecipe:WaterKefir
7KOMBUCHAANDJUNKombucha,Method1:Batch
Kombucha,Method2:Continuous-Brew
SCOBYfromStore-BoughtKombucha
FlavoredKombucha:SecondFermentation(2F)
CoffeeKombucha
Jun
8VEGETABLEDRINKSBeetKvass
CucumberPickleBrine
RadishBrine
JuicedFermentedVegetables
KimchiSoda
FermentedGreenJuice
9SODASHibiscusSoda
GrapeSoda
FruitySoda
Lemongina/Limegina
Orangina
FruitJuiceSodas
CoconutSodaKefir
10BEERS,GRAINS,ANDROOTSKhadi(SouthAfricanBeer)
BreadKvass
Rejuvelac
Root(s)Beer
GingerBeer
11WINES,CIDERS,ANDFRUITS(ANDVINEGAR!)
AppleCider1,2,3
Perry
BerryWine
CountryWine
PrisonWine/Hooch
Mead
RiceWine
SparklingCountryWine
12MEXICANPRE-HISPANICDRINKSPulque
Colonche
Tepache
Tejuino
13FERMENTEDCOCKTAILSUr-PiñaColada
TepacheHighball
Caliente
TepacheSmash
KombuchaSangria
KombuchaMezcal
KombuchaCarajillo
KombuchaShandy
LouisCK/KansasCity
KimchiBloodyMary
SauerkrautMichelada
KimchiMichelada
HibiscusMezcal
OranginaMargarita
AppleCiderMargarita
INDEX
ABV(alcoholbyvolume),102,184ABW(alcoholbyweight),184Acerglyn,165Acetobacter,79,81Acocote,173,174Advertising,11,16Agavenectar,174AgriculturalRevolution,29Agriculture,sedentary,29Aguamiel,173,174Aguamieldemaguey,62,63Pulquewithmilkkefirgrains,175SweetLassai,69Switchel,74TepacheHighball,187WaterKefir,96
Airlocks,forlids,51,53,55,120,122,155,161,164Alchemy,38Alcohol.SeealsoCocktailsbaseforherbalpotions,31biochemistryoffermentationand,39DrunkenMonkeyhypothesisand,28fermentingwithaclosedlidforbuildingup,53healthbenefits,18,31,44home-fermenteddrinkslowerin,18inkombucha,102measuring,184non-industrialfermentationand,18techniqueforgettinghigherlevelsof,185inwildfermenteddrinks,184yeastsand,40,78,184
Alcoholbyvolume(ABV),102,184Alcoholbyweight(ABW),184Alcoholcontentales,142fractionalfreezingordistillationand,185GingerBeer,150inkombucha,111pulque,174Root(s)Beer,148insodas,129wildfermenteddrinks,184
Alcoholproduction,large-scale,18Ales,141,142Alternativemedicine,42
Amaranth,141Amazake,40Ambientair,80Ambientair,accessto,80AncientGreeceandRome,30,31,33Antibacterialsoaps,58,59Antibiotics,24,32Antsalt,187“Theapértifeffect,”28Apfelwein,154AppleCiderBellini,198AppleCiderMargarita,197AppleCiderSoda,135,154AppleCiderVinegar,155,157Applecidervinegar.SeeRawapplecidervinegar“Applejack,”185Armelagos,George,31Artificialsweeteners,62TheArtofNaturalCheesemaking(Asher),92Asher,David,92,135,175Aspartame,62Atoms,36Autoimmunehealthproblems,41Avitamins,43Aztecs,the,33
Bacteria.SeealsoMicrobesacetobacter,79,81defined,39,78fermentationprocessand,39GingerBugstarter,83kombuchaand,99,100lactic-acidproducing,78SCOBYand,79,104waron,24wildbeersand,141
Bacterialstarters,80Barley,141,172Barleywines/barleywines,142Batchmethodforkombucha,105Beer(s)categoriesofgrain,141GingerBeer,150growinggrainsand,30Khadi(SouthAfrican),143KimchiMichelada,194KobuchaShandy,191madewithStreptyomycesmicrobe,32pseudo-grainferments,141
Rejuvelac,146replacingpulqueinMexico,172Root(s)Beer,148SauerkrautMichelada,195winevs.,130
BeerBeforeBreadtheory,30Beerbottles,55,56,82BeetKvass,118Beetsugar,63,103Bellini,Giovanni,198Berry-flavoredkombucha,118,190BerryWine,159SparklingCountryWine,168
Biochemistry,36Bio-individuality,42Blacktea,103BloodyMary,Kimchi,193Bob’sRedMill,180TheBotanyofDesire(Pollan),24Bottles,55.SeealsoGrolsch-stylebottles;Vesselsavoidingexplosionsof,82,97,113,130beer,55,56,82forhibiscussoda,129kombucha,56,82,161wine,56,82,159
Bottling,56,82AppleCiderSoda,155HibiscusSoda,129kombucha,107,110,113
Botulism,58BPA-freeplasticbottles.SeePlasticcontainersBread,30,33,78BreadKvass,144Brinecucumberpickle,120radish,122
Brownsugar,62,96,178Buckwheat,141,146Búlgarosdeleche.SeeMilkkefirgrains(búlgaros)Bvitamins,14,43,155
Cabbage,20,44,122Caliente,188Camelliasinensis,103Campari,192Campbell-McBride,Natasha,42Canesugar,63,96,99,103,136Cannabis,24,29Cannedfoods,botulismand,58Cannedfruitjuice,fermenteddrinksvs.,45
Canningfunnel,53Carajillo,Kombucha,191Carbohydrates,38Carbonation,53,81,148,150Carboys,55Cardamom,inSweetLassi,70Carrotkvass,119Cassavabeer,142Cassavaroot,141Caveatemptor,principleof,17Celery,125,193,195Cellini(AppleCiderBellini),198Chamomiletea,103Champagnebottles,82Chapman,John,157Chapulínsalt,187Chartreuseherballiqueur,31Cheesecloth,53,92Cheesemaking,91Cheeses,moldsand,78Chemicalcompound,36Chemicalreaction,37Chemicalsanitizingliquids,59Chloramine,62Chlorine,61,104CidersAppleCider,154,197,198pear(Perry),154,158Perry,158
Cinnamon,71,89,122,148,158,178Cipriani,Giuseppe,198CiprianiHotel,Venice,198Civilization,fermentationand,29“Classic-style”kombucha,111Clothhandkerchiefs,53,57Cloves,120,178Cocktails,183appealoffermentedbeveragesas,21AppleCiderBellini,198AppleCiderMargarita,197Caliente,188GingerAlealaMexicana,199HibiscusMezcal,196KimchiBloodyMary,193KimchiMichelada,194KombuchaCarajillo,191KombuchaMezcal,190KombuchaSangria,189
KombuchaShandy,191OranginaMargarita,196SauerkrautMichelada,195TepacheHighball,187TepacheSmash,189Ur-PiñaColada,186
Coconutcream,186Coconutmilk,90,186CoconutSodaKefir,136Coconutsugar,62Coconutwater,22,90,136,186Coffee,fermenteddrinksvs.,45Coffeefilters,53CoffeeKombucha,113KombuchaCarajillo,191
Colonche,176Commercials,11Complexcarbohydrates,39,140Complexsugars,140Continuous-brewkombuchasetup,108Cornstarch,63CountryWine,161SparklingCountryWine,168
Cranberryjuice,199Crum,Hannah,101CucumberCucumberPickleBrine,120FermentedGreenJuice,125
Cumin,71Currypowder,71Cvitamins,14,43
Dandelionroot,148Dave,GT,101Dave,Laraine,101Demerarasugar,62Dextrose,36,39Diamond,Jared,30Digestion,12,14drinkingwaterand,20healthbenefitsoffermenteddrinksand,18,19,44healthproblems,41
Digestiveenzymes,38Disaccharides,39,101,114,140,165Dishsoap,59Dishwasherpowder,58,59Doogh,72Dr.HosKombuchaBeer,102Drinkableyogurts,23
DrunkenMonkeyhypothesis,28TheDrunkenMonkey:WhyWeDrinkandAbuseAlcohol(Dudley),28Drymasaflour,180,181DryyeastColonche,176Khadi,143
Dudley,Robert,28
EarlGreytea,103Eggshells,96Einstein,Albert,16Electronickitchenscale,50Elements,36,38Endothermicreaction,38Enzymes,12,14,38,117Equipment.SeeToolsandequipmentEucharist,33Evolution,28Exothermicreaction,38Explosions,avoidingbottle,82,97,113,130
Fallon,Sally,92,134,146Fato,Ernesto,83Fennelseed,71Fermentation.SeealsoFermentedfoodsanddrinks;Secondaryfermentation(2f)accesstoambientairfor,
80canningvs.,58earlyhistoryof,28explained,12human-microberelationshipand,24religionand,33roleinhealth,31toolsandequipmentfor,47
Fermentedcoconutwater,23Fermentedfoodsanddrinks.SeealsoBeer(s);Kombucha;Sodas;Vegetabledrinksappealof,20benefitsof,18biochemistryand,39culturalcontinuityand,22healthbenefitsof,14,18,42loweralcoholcontentin,18Mexicanpre-Hispanic,171naming,139nutrientsin,43otherdrinksvs.,43reasonsformakinghomemade,23spoilageof,18supportinggutmicrobes,19usedascarriersformedicinalplantsandherbs,31
FermentedGreenJuice,125
Fermentedvegetables,juiced,1235-minutefermentedvegetablejuices,68Fizziness,55Flavoredkombucha,112,192Flip-topGrolsch-stylebottles,55,56,112,130,148,161,168Flyswatters,61Foodnutrients,14FoodoftheGodsTheSearchfortheOriginalTreeofKnowledge,ARadicalHistoryofPlants,Drugs,and
HumanEvolution(McKenna),28Foodscience,14Fractionaldistillation,185Fractionalfreezing,185Frank,Günther,101Franklin,Benjamin,33Fructose,36,39,40,114,140Fruit(s)addingtomilkkefir,89beerscontainingadded,142BerryWine,159CountryWine,161earlyancestorseatingfermented,28flavoringkombuchawith,112FruitySoda,131PrisonWine,162SweetLassi,70
Fruitflytraps,61FruitjuicesforFruitJuiceSodas,135milkkefirgrainsusedtoculture,90
FruitJuiceSodas,135Fruitwine,154,159FruitySoda,131Full-fatyogurt.SeePlainfull-fatyogurtFunnel,canning,53
Galactose,36,39Galangal,85,148GAPSdiet,101Gases,51Genetically-modified(GMO)beets,63,103Genetically-modified(GMO)corn,63Genetically-modified(GMO)masa,180Genetically-modified(GMO)yeasts,18Gin,31,189GingerBeetKvass,118FermentedGreenJuice,125GingerBeer,150Khadi,143
Root(s)Beer,148Sekanjabin,75Switchel,74
GingerAle,142GingerAlealaMexicana,199GingerAleCranberryVodka,199GingerBeer,150,188GingerBug,148GingerBeer,150recipe,83
Glassjugs,55Glucose,36,39,40,114,140Grainbeers,141Grain,sedentaryagricultureand,30Granulatedsugar,62BerryWine,159BreadKvass,144CountryWine,161FruitySoda,131GingerBeer,150GingerBug,83HibiscusSoda,128Khadi,143kombucha,99,109,113Lemongina/Limegina,132PrisonWine,162Root(s)Beer,148Scoby,111Sekanjabin,75SparklingCountryWine,168SweetLassi,69
Grapecider,154Grapeleaves,120GrapeSoda,130Grapette,130Grasshoppersalt,187Greenapple,125Greentea,103,115Grolsch-stylebottles,55,56,112,130,148,161,168GT’sKombucha,101,102GutandPsychologySyndrome(Campbell-McBride),42Gutenzymes,12,14Gutmicrobiologyandhealth,19,41,43
Handkerchiefs,53,57HardAppleCider,157Harry’sBar,Venice,198Healthbenefits,14,18,42Healthproblems,41
Hemingway,Ernest,193Herbalinfusions,103HerbsandspicesCucumberPickleBrine,120cucumberpicklebrine,120fermenteddrinksusedascarriersformedicinal,31FlavoredKombucha,112Mead,164RadishBrine,122
HibiscusSodaHibiscusMezcal,196recipe,128
HolyCommunion,33Homefermentation,benefitsof,22Hominidevolution,28Honey,62.SeealsoRawhoneyJunand,100,114,140Honeymead,140,165Hooch/PrisonWine,162SparklingCountryWine,168
Hops,141Humansaliva,141Hunter-gatherers,29,30,41Hygiene,excessive,25
Immunesystems,25Industrialchemicalpreservatives,44Industrialfoods,14,16,17,18,20Industrialwineandbeerproduction,142,184Islam,18Isomers,36,39
“Jacking,”185Jaggery,62Jars.SeealsoVesselscoversfor,53forMilkKefir,88safetyandsanitationwhenusing,58sizesofMason,50,51withspigots,57storage,55washing,50
JohnnyAppleseed,157Jugs,55,59,159,164JuicedFermentedVegetables,123Jun,79,100,104,114,140Juniper,31
Kale,125Katz,Sandor,128
Kefir,19,21,23,45,68,72.SeealsoMilkkefir;Waterkefir(tíbicos)Kefirgrains.SeeMilkkefirgrains(búlgaros);WaterkefirgrainsKhadi(SouthAfricanBeer),143
Kimchi,20,44,68,123KimchiBloodyMary,193KimchiMichelada,194KimchiSoda,124Kombucha,23.SeealsoJunalcoholcontent,102batchmethodformaking,105coffee,113continuous-brewmethodformaking,108flavored,112ingredientsformaking,103juncomparedwith,114KombuchaCarajillo,191KombuchaMezcal,190KombuchaSangria,189KombuchaShandy,191LouisCK/KansasCity,192manynamesof,100overview,99reasonsformakingathome,102recipe,114riseof,101SCOBYgrownfromstore-bought,111sugarin,62supplies,57
Kombuchabottles,56,82,161KombuchaBrewersInternational,101KombuchaCarajillo,191Kombucha:HealthyBeverageandNaturalRemedyfromtheFarEast,ItsCorrectPreparationandUse
(Frank),101KombuchaMezcal,190KombuchaSangria,189KombuchaShandy,191Kvass,21,23BeetKvass,118BreadKvass,144
Kvitamins,43
Lacticacidbacteria(LABs),78Lacticacidfermentation(lactofermentation),78Lacticacidreaction,39Lactose,39,86,88,90,140Lagers,141LaGory,Alex,101Lemonade,SaltyFermented,73Lemongina,132Libation,33Licor43
KombuchaCarajillo,191Licorice,148Limeade,SaltyFermented,73Limegina,132Limejuice,134,148,181,196,197,199Low-alcoholbeverages,18
Magueyplant,33,173,174MakeRoom!MakeRoom!(novel),15Maltose,39,140Mango,70Maplesyrup,62,63,140Acerglyn,165CoconutSodaKefir,136SweetLassi,69Switchel,74TepacheHighball,187
Maplesyrupmead,140MaryI,QueenofEngland,193Masadough,180,181Masaharina,181Masonjarsandlids,50,51,53bottlingwith,56cleaning,59Kombuchabrewedin,57safetyandsanitationwhenusing,59
Mayahuel(goddess),33McKenna,Terence,28Mead,65,140,164Measuringtools,48Merino,Marcela,125Mesquiteleaves,120Metabolism,38Metalstrainers,90Methanol,185Metheglin,164Metricconversions,50Metricsystem,48,50MexicanPre-HispanicDrinks,171Colonche,176Pulque,172Tejuino,181Tepache,178
Mexicansalts,187Mexico,12MezcalAppleCiderMargarita,197GingerAlealaMexicana,199HibiscusMezcal,196
KombuchaMezcal,190OranginaMargarita,196TepacheHighball,187
Michelada,123KimchiMichelada,194SauerkrautMichelada,195
Michelson,AlbertAbraham,15Microbes,12,14.SeealsoBacteria;Molds;Yeast(s)explained,39fermentationand,12,14fermenteddrinkscontaining“friendly,”43gut,19gutenzymesand,12,14inthehumanorganism,20humanrelationshipwith,24inwhey,91
Microbialdiversity,20,23Milkfermenteddrinksvs.,45formakingyogurt,86
Milkkefir,79,88,89,92Milkkefirgrains(búlgaros),79,88distinguishedfromcoagulatedmilk,90FruitJuiceSodas,135Orangina,134pulquewith,175usedtoculturecoconutwater,coconutmilk,fruitjuices,andnutmilks,90
Minerals,63Mintleaves,72,73,75Minttea,103Molasses,62,63,74,96,187Molds,39,40,78Molecules,36Monkeys,28Monosaccharides,39,101,114,140Mormons,18Motherofvinegar,79Mourby,Adrian,198Muscovado,62
Nelson,Mark,32NewYorkTimesarticleonkombucha,101NourishingTraditions(Fallon),92,134Nubianbones,31Nutmilks,milkkefirgrainsusedtoculture,90Nutrients,14,15,23,43,44,184Nutrition,15
Oakleaves,120,122Oilofbergamot,103
Oligosaccharides,39Oolongtea,103Opioids,12Orangejuice,134,135Orangina,134OranginaMargarita,196
Panelasugar,62,96,136,178,181Paracelsus,44Passoverseder,33Pathogenicmicrobes,18,43,44Pearcider,154,158Pearsoda,158Perry,154,158Personalcareproducts,17Petiot,Fernand,193Phosphoricacid,21,142Phyticacid,44,63Pickles,68,120Piloncillosugar,62,96,172,181PiñaColada,22PineappleKhadi,143SweetLassi,70Tepache,178TepacheHighball,187tipsandtricks,179
Pineapplecorer,179Pineappletepachevinegar,74Plainfull-fatyogurtbacterialstarters,80Doogh,72forfive-minuterecipes,68formakingwhey,91SaltyorSavoryLassi,71SweetLassi,69wheyrecipe,91
Planck,Max,16Plasticcontainers,55,82forAppleCiderSoda,155bottlingkombuchain,107,113forfruitjuicesodas,135forGingerBeer,150forHibiscusSoda,129forPulque,175
Plasticsiphonpumps,56Plasticspigots,57Pollan,Michael,24Polysaccharides,39
Pomegranatejuice,197Posca,31Powderedsugar,63Preservatives,44,65,141,154Pricklypear,131,176PrisonWine,162Probioticsupplementpills,43Processedfoods,14,20Proof,184Prosecco,198Proteins,38Psilocybinmushrooms,29Pulque,142,172Pulquerías,172
TheQuarterlyReviewofBiology,28Quincejuice,158Quinoa,141,146RadishBrine,122
Raisins,96,144Rapadurasugar,96Raspberries,132Rawapplecidervinegar,23,68,74,157Rawdelicious,125Rawfruitjuice,fermenteddrinksvs.,45Rawhoneydissolvinginwarmwater,68Mead,164SaltyFermentedLemonade/Limeade,73SweetLassi,69Switchel,74
RawmilkMilkKefir,88wheymadewith,92
Rawsauerkraut,68Rawsugar,62Rawwheatberries,146RealFoodFermentation,68Realfoods,14Redwine,189Refrigeration,58,74,82,92,97,113,119Regulators,offood,16Rejuvelac,146Religion,fermentationand,33Rhizomes,148Riceferments,40RiceWine,166Ricewineyeastball,166
Rooibostea,103Rootbeer,21,142,148Rosemary,118,164Rum,186Ryebread,144
Saccharine,62Safetyandsanitationequipment,58SaldeChapulin(grasshoppersalt),187SaldeGuano(wormsalt),187,194,195SaldeHormiga(antsalt),187Saliva,human,141SaltyFermentedLemonadeorLimeade,73Sangria,Kombucha,189Sassafrasrootbark,148Sauerkraut,21,44,68,123,125Sauerkrautjuice,195SCOBY,79.SeealsoWaterkefirgrainsJun,115kombucha,104,107,109starters,79fromstore-boughtkombucha,111
Sealedcontainers,82Secondaryfermentation(2f),56,82,89beer,142CoconutSodaKefir,136FlavoredKombucha,112GrapeSoda,130SparklingCountryWine,168
Sekanjabin,75Shanghaiyeastball,166Shōchū,40Shrub,23Simplesugars,39,140Singapore,102Siphoning,155,159,161Siphonpumps,55,59SodaChanh,73Sodas,127appealoffermenteddrinksimitating,21CoconutSodaKefir,136fermenteddrinksvs.,45FruitJuiceSodas,135FruitySoda,131GrapeSoda,130HibiscusSoda,128kimchi,124Lemongina/Limegina,132Orangina,134
Soju,40
Sourdoughstarter,144,145Soylent,14SoylentGreen(film),15SparklingCountryWine,168SparklingwaterDoogh,72fermentedvegetablejuiceswith,68kimchisoda,124Switchelservedwith,74
Sparklingwine,198Spearmintleaf,148Spices.SeeHerbsandspicesSpinach,125Spoilage,offermentedfoods,18Sportsdrinks,fermenteddrinksvs.,45StandardsAmericanDiet(SAD),20Staranise,178Starches,140Startersbacterial,80explained,79GingerBug,83SCOBY,79sourdough,145wheyusedas,87,91yeast,80
Stickyrice,166StonedApetheory,28Strainers,53,90Strainingdairyyogurt,92milkkefir,90waterkefirgrains,90,97,134
Streptomycesmicrobe,32Sucanat,62Sucralose,62Sucrose,36,39,114,140Sugar.SeeCanesugar;GranulatedsugarSuperBowlcommercials,12Supplements,probiotic,43Sweeteners.SeealsoindividualtypesofsweetenersforCoconutSodaKefir,136forkombucha,100forSaltyFermentedLemonadeorLimeade,73
SweetLassi,69Switchel,21,23,74
Tannins,120
Teafermenteddrinksvs.,45usedforkombucha,103
Tepache,22,40,80Caliente,188recipe,178TepacheHighball,187TepacheSmash,189Ur-PiñaColada,186
TequilaAppleCiderMargarita,197GingerAlealaMexicana,199OranginaMargarita,196
Tetracycline,32Thucydides,30Tíbicos.SeeWaterkefir(tíbicos)Tlachiquero,173,174Toolsandequipmentforbottling,56filteredwater,61flyswatters,61fruitflytraps,61jars,50forkombucha,57kombucha,continuous-brewsetup,108measuring,48forsafetyandsanitation,58storagebottles/jars,55sugar,62
Traditionalsoju,40Triclosan,59Tulips,24Turbinadosugar,62,96Turmeric,71,852f(secondaryfermentation).SeeSecondaryfermentation(2f)Unfilteredfermenteddrinks,43,184Unfilteredvinegar,74,75Unrefinedsugar,63Ur-PiñaColada,186U.S.customaryunits,48
Vanillabean/vanillaextract,89,148Vegetabledrinks,117BeetKvass,118CucumberPickleBrine,120FermentedGreenJuice,125JuicedFermentedVegetables,123KimchiSoda,124RadishBrine,122
Vegetablefermentationstarters,80
Vermouth,31Vessels.SeealsoBottles;Masonjarsandlidsbottlinginserving-sized,82forKombucha,57Masonjarsandlids,50old,“teaching”thenew,36safetyandsanitationforusing,58sealing,81forstorage,55
VilladePatosbrandofmagueysap,174VinegarAppleCiderVinegar,155drinkingwaterwith,31makinghomemade,95notneedingastarter,79watered-down,31whentousehomemadevs.store-bought,95
Viruses,12Vitamins,14,43,155VodkaGingerAleCranberryVodka,199KimchiBloodyMary,193
“Waronbacteria,”24Waterforbrewingteaforkombucha,104chlorinein,61drinkingtoomuch,20drinkingwithvinegar,31fermenteddrinksvs.,45filtering,62,104impuritiesin,61mixingwithwine,31removingimpuritiesfrom,61
Waterkefir(tíbicos),79,140GrapeSoda,130recipe,96
Waterkefirgrains,96,136Weightgain/loss,41Wheat,78,141,172Wheatberries,146Wheatbran,143Wheycheesemakingand,91Lemongina/Limegina,132Orangina,134recipe,91Root(s)Beer,148
usedasastarter,87,91Whitevinegar,58,59,75WHOModelListofEssentialMedicines,32Wildfermenteddrinks,184.SeealsoFermentedfoodsanddrinksWildyeastgrainbeers,141Wildyeastsairand,80beerand,141benefitsofhome-fermenteddrinksand,18BerryWine,159sourdoughstarterand,145wineand,31
Wine(s)additivesin,153AppleCiderBellini(Cellini),198beervs.,140BerryWine,159CountryWine,161fruit,155KombuchaSangria,189mixingwithwater,31PrisonWine/Hooch,162RiceWine,166roleinJudaictradition,33SparklingCountryWine,168vinegarmadefrom,95
Winebottles,56,82,95,159,161Wineyeast,159Wintergreenleaf,148“Woodalcohol,”185Woodenbarrel,57Woodspigots,57WorldHealthOrganization(WHO),32,41Wormsalt,187,194,195“Wormwood,”31“TheWorstMistakeintheHistoryoftheHumanRace”(Diamond),30
Yeast(s).SeealsoDryyeast;Microbesalcoholand,40,78,184AppleCidersedimentand,155beervs.wineand,140defined,39explained,78genetically-modified,18kombuchaand,99,100nutrientsin,43SCOBYand,79,104starchesand,140wild,18,80,140,142,184wildbeersand,141
Yeastreaction,40Yeaststarters,80Yogurt.SeealsoPlainfull-fatyogurtkefirand,88microbialdiversityand,23recipe,86starternecessaryfor,80strainingdairy,92
TOTHEANCESTORSANDTRADITIONSOFMEXICOANDTHEUNITEDSTATES,ANDTOWORKINGTOGETHER.
ANDTOINDIGENOUSPEOPLESEVERYWHERE—MAYWEALLGROKYOURWISDOMBEFOREIT’STOOLATE.
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