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Clothes Make the Vampire: Metaphorical Usefulness Through Costume Design
Transcript of Clothes Make the Vampire: Metaphorical Usefulness Through Costume Design
Ling-Choung
Vampires are the perfect monsters for metaphor. Their
unique attributes as humans turned monster can serve as a
stand-ins for the ills of society. The vampire’s versatility
of depiction, particularly on screen, allows it to exist
within the discourse of various historical and societal
matters. In Joan Gordon and Veronica Hollinger’s collection
of essays, titled Blood Read: The Vampire as Metaphor in Contemporary
Culture, they observe that the vampire is an “ambiguously cold
figure, a source of both erotic anxiety and corrupt
desire,”1while Nina Auerbach agrees, adding that “every age
embraces the vampire it needs.”2 Both of these scholars
agree that vampires have immense metaphorical usefulness. In
using the vampire as a stand-in for real life issues, and
shifting its depiction from one film to another, it aids in
creating a distance between the real life problem from
society, and therefore “the impact of the shift from human
to ‘other’ perspective works to invite sympathy for the
1 Gordon, Joan, and Veronica Hollinger. Blood Read: The Vampire as Metaphor in Contemporary Culture. Philadelphia: U of Pennsylvania, 1997. 1. Print.
2 Ibid.
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monstrous outsider at the same time as it serves to diminish
the terror generated by what remains outside our frame of
the familiar and the knowable.3”In each of these chosen
films, the depiction of vampires is specific to the time
period and issues at hand, and as the films attempt to wield
the vampire as a tool in which to illuminate these problems
and arrive at a suitable ‘solution,’ costume design becomes
an integral component in this exercise. Through the
analysis of two vampire films, The Hunger (1983) and Bram
Stoker’s Dracula (1992), I seek to discuss how the changing
image of the vampire on screen, primarily through costume
design helps to define the vampire for a specific time, and
how the vampire operates, more specifically as a metaphor
for unabashed female sexuality in Victorian England in Bram
Stoker’s Dracula, and as a symbol of illness and decay of
HIV/AIDS in The Hunger.
I want to begin with Bram Stoker’s Dracula, a film that is
sumptuous on every level. Drawing from the original source
material by Stoker, it attempts to tackle the ever-present
3 Ibid., 2.
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fear of burgeoning female sexuality in Victorian England.
Bram Stoker’s Dracula, as reimagined by Francis Ford Coppola, on
the surface, is a love story between Count Dracula and his
long lost love Elisabeta, who is reincarnated in the form of
Mina Harker. Yet a more in depth reading finds that it is a
retelling of the tropes of the whore and the saint. In this
scenario, Dracula operates as raw female sexuality and his
presence aids in the transformation, shown visually through
the costume designs of Eiko Ishioka, of Mina and Lucy,
creating the dichotomy of saint/ whore thorough the style of
dress, embellishments and finally the use of the color red
to signify partial and then complete vampiric transformation
of both women.
When Mina is introduced to the audience, she appears in
a pale green gown with a high neckline and long sleeves
(figure 1). There is no exposed flesh, all of the scandalous
parts, as deemed by Victorian English standards are covered—
décolletage, wrists, ankles, and knees. The embroidered leaf
motif, which coupled with the pale sea foam green, will
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become her theme color according to Ishioka, and will be
repeated in all of her gowns prior to her descent into
whoredom. Ishioka takes Mina’s role in the film and weaves
it into her gowns, “Mina is sensible, strong-willed,
intelligent, stoical, and naïve about sex. I felt that green
was the perfect color to symbolize this kind of woman and
used a different shade of green in each scene for her…The
high collars of the dresses reflect her chastity”4Ishioka’s
choice of color and details visually code Mina’s sexuality
prior to and after her encounter with Dracula. In a scene at
Lucy’s, her wealthy childhood friend, estate, Mina sits at
her typewriter while wearing the same sea foam green dress,
yet here we get a slight foreshadowing of her transformation
by the presence of the erotic and exotic Arabian Nights by
Richard F. Burton at her side as she types. Opening it to an
illustration of a sex act, Mina remarks “How disgusting
awful;”5 she is curious about the image but naïve to its
4 Coppola, Francis Ford, and Eiko Ishioka. Coppola and Eiko on Bram Stoker's Dracula. San Francisco: Collins San Francisco, 1992. 61. Print.5 Bram Stoker's Dracula. American Zoetrope, 1992. Film.
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function. She is interrupted by the arrival of her spoiled,
wealthy and hyper sexualized friend, Lucy who runs into the
conservatory, red hair loose, red lips and in a pale pink
gown with two roses embroidered on her breasts. Her
sexuality is front and center, the rosebuds deliberately
placed over her breasts as to denote her as a blossoming
flower. Ishioka outfits her in an off shoulder gown
presenting her neck and décolletage for ravishing. Even its
design, with its slipping off ability, drives home the
availability of her sexuality. The dialogue between Lucy and
Mina in this scene bolsters the visual dichotomy between
chastity and sexuality as is illustrated in their dresses.
Lucy, upset that her friend is being forced by her fiancé to
learn the typewriter, offers instead “he could be forcing
you to perform unspeakable acts of desperate passion on the
parlor floor,”6 to which Mina replies, “There is more to
marriage than carnal pleasure.”7They both investigate the
sexually graphic images found in Arabian Nights, Lucy is
6 Ibid7 Ibid.
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naturally drawn to them, and while on the other hand, Mina
cannot understand what she is looking at, she wonders, “Can
a man and woman really do that?”8
The next scene that sets up the visual dichotomy
between these two characters occurs at the party Lucy throws
at Hillingham where her three suitors are present. Ishioka
keeps the two women linked by the color green, but their
gowns become more telling as it pertains to their sexuality.
Lucy’s dress repeats the off the shoulder style and is
cleverly embroidered with intertwining snakes (figure 2),
harkening to an Eve reference, another woman who seduced a
man ending in disastrous results. Mina’s dress, on the other
hand, has a neckline has that dropped, no longer denying the
viewer of her neck and décolletage, and her sleeves have
become sheer, a clear indication of Lucy’s influence on her,
and a reiteration of Jonathan’s fears about Mina staying at
such a lavish estate. This also marks the moment when she
begins to feel the pull of Dracula, though at this point,
she does not know it is he.
8 Ibid.
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Now, I will depart from the film analysis just briefly
to discuss the correlation of Ishioka’s choices in costume
design for Mina and Lucy, and the ramifications of these
choices on their Victorian identities as sexualized females
in the presence of the vampire. John Allen Stevenson
identifies the problem that arises from the presence of the
vampire and the masculine fear that grows from such a
relationship. He notes that with Mina, the quintessential
symbol of ideal Victorian chastity, the interaction between
her and Dracula brings forth not only questions of her
loyalty, in terms of fidelity towards her intended, Jonathan
Harker, but as I will explain further, loyalty to her race
as an English woman. He writes, “Here then is the real
horror of Dracula, for he is the ultimate social adulterer,
whose purpose is nothing if to turn good Englishwomen like
Lucy and Mina away from their own kind and customs.”9Not
only are Lucy and Mina’s places as upstanding Englishwomen
in danger, but also if they engage in an unsanctioned
9 Stevenson, John Allen. "A Vampire in the Mirror: The Sexuality of Dracula." PMLA 103.2 (1988): 140. Jstor. Web. <http://www.jstor.org/stable/462430>.
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relationship with the vampire, the fear of transformation
into an “other” become a viable reality and a betrayal to
their race. Here Stevenson is borrowing terminology from
Edward Westermarck, a pioneer on studies of the anthropology
of marriage, and so the implication of an unholy marriage
between Dracula and Mina distinguishes her as “other,”
labeling her as foreign, both in her new sexual identity as
well as an undead being, thus holding no allegiance to any
place and time. Both Coppola and Ishioka recognize the
importance of this fear and permeate the gowns they wear
with it.
Color is an important element that Ishioka and Coppola
take into consideration in depicting the visual
transformation of Mina into “other”. Stoker, in his desire
to create a real fleshed out monster includes red as
necessity to the story of Dracula for obvious reasons; it is
the color of blood, his main life source. Coppola takes this
association directly from the pages of Stoker’s novel and
from the following excerpt; the literary translation to
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screen is quite fitting and sets the relationship with the
color red, Dracula and Mina right from the start: “I knew
him at once from the description of others. The waxen face:
the aquiline nose, on which the light fell in a thin, white
line, the parted red lips, with sharp white teeth showing
between; and the red eyes that I had seemed to see in the
sunset on the windows of St. Mary’s Church in
Whitby.”10Already, we see that Stoker has associated red to
indicate partial or complete vampiric transformation. In her
notes about the costume design, Ishioka notes, “Throughout
the film, red is significant as a color that symbolizes
blood. I decided to use red only for Dracula. The only other
time I used red was for the dress Mina wears when she dances
with Dracula on their first date…It suggests that Mina will
soon turn into a vampire.”11This is indicated earlier when
Dracula transforms Lucy into a vampire. Ishioka outfits Lucy
is a bright orange-red nightgown, with a corseted top and
10 Stoker, Bram. Dracula. Dover Publications, 2000. 292-3. Print.
11 Bram Stoker's Dracula.
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sheer bottom (figure 3). As she sleepwalks into the garden,
lured by Dracula, the camera zooms into Lucy’s lower half,
as the wind kicks up her gown, revealing a sliver of milky
white thigh. Lucy and Dracula engage in the blood exchange
and her transformation begins. The visual coding, the red as
signifier for vampire, as established by Ishioka’s costumes,
continues in the date between Dracula and Mina set in the
absinthe bar. Mina’s gown, rich crimson taffeta, with
shortened sleeves and a low v-shaped neckline (figure 4)
gives access to her wrists and neck, favorable biting spots
for the vampire. Her hair, loose and in waves around her
shoulders mimics not only Dracula’s hairstyle but also the
hairstyle of his long lost love, Elisabeta. Mina’s look here
is utterly foreign; there are no longer markings of her
English sensibilities coded in her dress. She has fully
aligned herself with her dark prince and she is primed to
cross the line from saint to whore. As they dance, her long
train sweeping the floor, it harkens back to the dressing
gown worn by Dracula in his first encounter with the
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audience and Harker (figure 5). His long train, embellished
with the markings of his nobility, sweeps the floor in a
similar fashion. This particular scene illustrates
Stevenson’s observation that, “The danger is not that she
will be captured but that she will go willingly.”12 Mina, as
the movie progresses, willingly makes the transformation
from saint to whore, and it culminates in the scene where he
finally concedes to gift her with everlasting life. Mina
dressed in white, like a bride, consents to giving her
“virginity” to Dracula, allowing him to penetrate her.
Ishioka’s choice of a sheer white nightgown is no accident;
the blood that drips down her face and on her gown further
bolsters the act as her deflowering. Dracula even beckons
her to “be his loving wife forever.”13 Interestingly enough,
Dracula experiences a moment of hesitation, as he
reconsiders the consequences of his actions, but Mina is
determined and willing, and she begs him to “take her away
12 Stevenson, John Allen. "A Vampire in the Mirror: The Sexuality of Dracula." 139.13 Bram Stoker's Dracula.
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from all this death”14and so he does. The fears of all
Victorian men have come true as Van Helsing and his men
burst in to stop Dracula, but it is too late. Mina is on her
way to becoming “other.”
Now, I will address the ramifications of this
transformation as it pertains to Victorian society. The
seduction of Mina poses a threat to the vampire killers in
the novel and in the film. Once the exchange of blood has
occurred between Dracula and Mina, she is set out on the
path of whoredom, just like her friend Lucy, who had been
quickly dispatched by Van Helsing and his band of vampire
hunters in a previous scene. The price the good Englishwoman
pays for abandoning her chastity is death. The blood
exchange transforms Mina’s sexual nature and she becomes a
sexual being with agency, and as Stevenson notes, “when her
transformation from ‘good’ Englishwoman to vampire is
complete, she will become a daughterly ‘companion and
helper’”15 Dracula liberates Mina from the sexual economy of
14 Ibid.15 Stevenson, John Allen. "A Vampire in the Mirror:" 143.
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Victorian England, allowing her sexual freedom, a freedom
only prostitutes and men enjoyed during this time. Dracula
renegotiates Mina’s gender, turning her into an assertive
male, thus freeing her from the prevailing societal
construct, which Freud examines in Totem and Taboo,
underscoring the notion that females remain under the sexual
sway of their fathers, then with their fathers’ permission,
move from daughters to wives, falling under the sexual sway
of their husbands. Mina is an affront to this construct and
it is seen in her seduction attempt of Van Helsing. In the
midst of her vampiric transformation, she rips her dress
open to reveal her milky breasts, adding, “I, too, know what
men desire.”16 Ishioka outfits Mina to fit into her new
home, branding her as “other” with the exoticness, both of
location and time, of her green velvet dress and cape.
Ishioka’s goal is to remind the audience that she is, at
least in Dracula’s eyes, from another time and place, “Mina
is the reincarnation of Dracula’s lost love, Elisabeta, a
fifteen-century princess. I designed her cape in the last
16 Bram Stoker's Dracula.
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scene with a strong Renaissance flavor, a Pre-Raphaelite
look.”17Her drive to seduce Van Helsing also stems from
Mina’s new role as Dracula’s helper, giving her sexual
license to “seek other men.”18She now enjoys an equal status
with her dark prince; a companion rather than a subordinate
in her former culture. As Mina sheds her Victorian identity,
she enters a new system where she is foreign, “other,”
forever. Van Helsing and his men want to desperately
dispatch of Dracula primarily because “he does not simply
kidnap or alter cultural allegiances, his sexual union with
women like Lucy and Mina physically deracinates them and
recreates them as members of his own kind.”19As the band of
men repeatedly stab Dracula, Mina runs to his defense and
shields him from further harm. Harker, realizing that she
can no longer be saved; she is of his kind now, prompts the
rest of the group to “Leave them alone. Our work is finished
here, her work has just begun.”20Mina is left to dispatch
17 Coppola, Francis Ford, and Eiko Ishioka. Coppola and Eiko on Bram Stoker's Dracula. 91.18 Stevenson, John Allen. "A Vampire in the Mirror:" 143.19 Ibid., 144.20 Bram Stoker's Dracula.
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him and as the film ends, although she is released from the
vampire curse, it is unclear if she ever returns to Harker
or England. The last scene of the film pans from Mina’s
green velvet dress to the fresco on the ceiling depicting
Elisabeta in a similar gown, tying both of the women to that
time and place (figure 6). This differs from the novel in
that Mina is allowed to reenter into Victorian society, “Van
Helsing summed it all up as he said, with our boy on his
knee. We want no proofs. We ask none to believe us! This boy
will some day know what a brave and gallant woman his mother
is. Already he knows her sweetness and loving care. Later on
he will understand how some men so loved her, that they did
dare much for her sake.” Mina is reverted back to her
virtuous self and she falls right back into the social
construct of wife and mother, skirting the terrible fate
that befell her friend Lucy.
Now we move to the 1980s, where the vampire is rebooted
and becomes a chic and stylish entity in Tony Scott’s 1983
film, The Hunger, embodied in the characters of Miriam and
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John Blaylock, portrayed by Catherine Deneuve and David
Bowie, respectively. Yet another metaphor can be applied to
the vampire of the 1980s, this time as a lens to discuss the
emerging HIV/AIDS epidemic centered in New York City, and as
noted by Nicola Nixon in When Hollywood Sucks, recognizable
tropes associated with the HIV/AIDS scene, particularly in
New York City are evident in Scott’s film. Although there
are no embedded references to AIDS, this film provides an
adequate space in which to discuss this emerging societal
issue, using Miriam and John Blaylock as stand-ins for the
physical nature of the disease, and more importantly, how
costume designer Milena Canonero combats the physicality of
the disease with fashion.
The Hunger opens with some of the recognizable tropes
associated with AIDS that Nixon identifies in her essay— the
nightclub filled with leather clad men and women waiting and
available for anonymous sex. The camera cuts between
Bauhaus, the band playing in the club, ironically singing
Bela Lugosi is Dead (perhaps a reference to the old and dated
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depiction of Dracula on screen) and isolated shots of
Miriam’s face, with close attention to her red lips, a page
perhaps taken out of Stoker’s association with vampires and
red, and John’s sun glassed face as they scour the club for
their next ‘companions.’ Sharply dressed in black and
leather, as to fit in with their surroundings, yet they are
so elegant, they don’t really ever fit in with the regulars.
Canonero portrays John and Miriam as mirror images of each
other at the onset of the film, and creates what I will
label as the beautiful corpse, essentially a well-dressed
dead body, as vampires are. To track the trajectory of this
term and how it applies to the character of John Blaylock, I
will call upon terminology coined by vampire novelist
Octavia Butler in her novel, The Fledgling. John and Miriam are
engaged in, what Butler calls, a symbiont relationship. This
type of relationship functions as “the mutuality between
humans and vampires” and while John is not human, but
vampire, his longevity is dependent on Miriam’s blood, and
so this type of relationship is applicable here. Their
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mutuality is echoed visually in the film through their
mirroring fashion. This will change as John becomes ill and
begins his disintegration into corpse. In the introduction
of John and Miriam, one can see the effect of the mirroring
of fashion. Even in the darkness of the club, they exude
elegance. They both wear sunglasses, hers a cat-eye shape
and his round. They both wear dark clothing, hers lined with
a leather lapel and his with broad shoulder pads. Even their
hairstyles are in sync; John’s pompadour is matched by
Miriam’s leather flight attendant hat (figure 7). They
operate through fashion as a single entity, and do not seek
out victims; the victims come to them, drawn in part to
their elegance. There is a clear contrast between the
crassness of the leather clothing worn by the anonymous
couple John and Miriam take home from the club and the
refinedness of their own wardrobe. Their actions, seducing
each member of this couple is also mirrored, and is spliced
with images of a monkey attacking its companion in the lab.
Now, as Nixon mentions, “in 1983, there were only about 800
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AIDS- type cases documented in the U.S and fewer than 400 in
England; the acronym was not even coined until around
1982,”21so Scott is not consciously planting associations
with HIV/AIDS in his film, but it is clear to apply these
associations, retrospectively. Miriam’s leather flight
attendant hat (figure 8) can be seen as a reference to
“patient zero” Gaetan Dugas, who worked as a flight
attendant and infected hundreds of men that he had sex with.
He was considered to be “the quintessential amoral,
solitary, and infected predator, who Shilts [Dugas’s own Van
Helsing] insists, had sex with me simply in order to kill
them, using the cloak of darkness in nightclubs and
bathhouses to conceal his telltale KS lesions.”22 If one was
to insert the word vampire into Shilts’ description of
Dugas, the assumptions made remain the same; AIDS is the
disease of predators, just as vampires prey on humans.
21 Nixon, Nicola. "When Hollywood Sucks, or Hungry Girls, Lost Boys and Vampirism in the Age of Reagan." Blood Read: The Vampire as Metaphor in Contemporary Culture. Ed. Joan Gordon and Veronica Hollinger. Philadelphia: U of Pennsylvania, 1997. 118. Print.22 Ibid., 119.
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The shift in their mirroring occurs when John begins to
show signs of his illness. It is brought on by his inability
to sleep, rendering Miriam’s blood ineffectively in keeping
him young. As he begins to decay, and as his illness shows,
John becomes hyper stylized and his fashion serves to combat
and mask his rapid aging and eventual decay. Scott mirrors
this with scenes from Dr. Sarah Robert’s study on progeria
and sleep depravation as they observe a monkey that has been
awake for fifty six days, with John, as he lies awake,
surrounded by the trapping of luxury and decked in silk
pajamas. When their young music protégé Alice comes to
visit, Canonero begins to divide Miriam and John through
fashion, as John relinquishes his beautiful corpse persona.
He is dressed in a light suit with a light blue shirt, while
both Alice and Miriam are wearing dark blue, linking Miriam
to youthfulness and excluding John. Her hair is pushed back,
emphasizing her rosy cheeks and red lips, while John’s hair
falls in his face to cover the “effects” of his disease.
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John’s visit to Dr. Roberts’ office provides an
arresting image of his transition from beautiful corpse to
simply corpse. He sits in her waiting room, outfitted in an
elegant dark trench coat, classic aviator-style glasses and
a wide brimmed fedora, all elements to distract from his
aging visage (figure 9). As he is brushed off by Dr. Roberts
and sits in the waiting room, literally wasting away as he
waits, the viewer watches his transformation to a skeleton
housed in pretty clothes. He rakes his hair, gathering tufts
of it in his hands as Scott employs the same technique,
replacing Miriam’s place as John’s mirror with the monkey.
The monkey ages and disintegrates before our eyes, just as
John ages before our eyes in the waiting room. Finally,
frustrating with being ignored by the doctor, he leaves,
gathering what little semblance of glamour left to him as he
puts his hat back on, his outfit remains the last important
thing to him.
As John becomes more and more corpse-like, the
materials that Canonero uses for his outfits change. While
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Miriam maintains her high level of glamour, wearing silks,
leather and suits made by Yves Saint Laurent, John’s clothes
become more shroud-like, with materials such as linen and
muslin are used. John also begins to be replaced by Sarah
visually as Miriam’s mirror. When Sarah visits to inquire
about John’s status, who has been put to rest in a coffin,
she is dressed in a very similar outfit to Miriam, a dark
suit dress with wide shoulder pads and a cinched waist.
Sarah’s hairstyle, however, mimics John’s, signifying that
Sarah is on her way to becoming a beautiful corpse. Sarah
removes her jacket and reveals a white t-shirt underneath.
In the course of their meeting, Sarah spills wine on her
shirt. This accident initiates their sexual encounter, in
which Miriam transforms Sarah into her new beautiful corpse,
creating a new symbiont relationship. Butler, in her story
posits the idea of the “benefits” of the symbiont
relationship, citing that “the overwhelming positive and
pleasurable nature of these relationships raises further
concerns about whether humans would indeed choose to partake
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in an improved, more pleasurable existence if that existence
were in fact a form of enslavement.” Fink adds, “Butler
raises a complex ethical question of power and need
suggesting that consent might not be plausible because of
the factors informing such decisions”23 This can be applied
to how fashion functions in The Hunger to mask the effects of
HIV/AIDS. John and Miriam’s relationship can be seen as a
form of enslavement; John is tied to Miriam as his source of
youth. When that relationship fails, he enters another form
of enslavement with fashion, using it as a means to hide his
affliction, similarly to Dugas, who used the darkness of
clubs and bathhouses to cloak his AIDS symptoms. There is
the power of fashion, the elegance and style of Miriam and
John at the beginning that helped in procuring their
victims, and then the need of fashion arises for John when
he must wield it to remain decent and alluring to his
partner. Fashion fails him in the end, however.
23 Fink, Marty. "AIDS Vampires: Reimagining Illness in Octavia Butler's "Fledgling"" Science Fiction Studies 37.3 (2010):418. Jstor. Web. 27 Apr. 2015. <http://www.jstor.org/stable/25746442>.
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In conclusion, costume design in both Bram Stoker’s Dracula
and The Hunger function in bolstering the metaphorical
usefulness of vampires in contemporary culture. The ability
of vampires to adapt visually to the time and place in which
they are envisioned, allow them to enter any discourse.
Frederic Jameson, in his book Political Unconscious sees the
value of using vampires for this purpose, “the production of
aesthetic or narrative form is to be seen as an ideological
act in its own right, with the function of inventing
imaginary or formal ‘solutions’ to unresolvable social
contradictions.”24In this understanding, vampires as
metaphor for discussing female sexuality in Victorian
England and as metaphor for making sense of an unknown
disease and its effects on the body allow for a detached
examination using vampires, who remain as outsiders of
normative society. They allow the freedom to investigate and
posit the effects of such issues without altering our own
reality.
24 Gordon, Joan, and Veronica Hollinger. Blood Read: The Vampire as Metaphor. 2.
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Bibliography
Bram Stoker's Dracula. American Zoetrope, 1992. Film.
Coppola, Francis Ford, and Eiko Ishioka. Coppola and Eiko on
Bram Stoker's Dracula. Glasgow: HarperCollins, 1992.
Print.
Fink, Marty. "AIDS Vampires: Reimagining Illness in Octavia
Butler's "Fledgling"" Science Fiction Studies (2010): 416-
32. Print.
Nixon, Nicola. "When Hollywood Sucks, or Hungry Girls, Lost
Boys and Vampirism in the Age of Reagan." Blood Read: The
Vampire as Metaphor for Contemporary Culture. Ed. Joan Gordon
and Veronica Hollinger. Philadelphia: U of
Pennsylvania, 1997. Print.
The Hunger. Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, 1983. Film.
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Stevenson, John Allen. "A Vampire in the Mirror: The
Sexuality of Dracula." PMLA 103.2 (1988): 139-49. Jstor.
Web. 28 Apr. 2015.
<http://www.jstor.org/stable/462430>.
Stoker, Bram. Dracula. Dover Publications, 2000. Print.
Figures
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