A STUDY ON CHALLENGES FACED BY THE KHADI MARKETERS ...

Sept, 2021. VOL.13. ISSUE NO. 3 https://hrdc.gujaratuniversity.ac.in/Ejournal Page | 782

A STUDY ON CHALLENGES FACED BY THE KHADI MARKETERS IN SELLING KHADI APPARELS

Ms. Priyanka Raghani Dr. Jigna Trivedi

Abstract In India, "Khaddar"/Khadi is the original fabric, which is a hand-spun and hand-woven material that helps sustain the rural economy through the employment of rural artisans and women. Even though Khadi is our heritage and culture, the majority of people do not wear it. In the present study, the challenges faced by the marketers of Khadi apparel-KhadiBhandhars in selling the khadi garments are examined. Thus, in this article, the purpose is to find out the reasons for the non-acceptance of Khadi, to identify the problems faced in selling Khadi garments, to promote Khadi as a fashion fabric. Various initiatives have been proposed to make Khadi a long-lived sustainable fabric of Indian heritage and culture, such as young celebrity endorsements, online sales, promoting exports, and research for quality improvement. Keywords: Apparels, Khadi, Khadi Bhandars, Marketers, Sustainable Introduction The wearing of apparels is solely a human feature and is an essential element of the society. People started wearing garments after the last Ice Age. Intricate embroidery, embellishment, prints, and handwork are parameters for selection of apparels (Lisaa, 2018). Textile industry working on machine spinning technology (Rowe, 1997) is fastest growing industry (Deloitte., 2013) and contributes around 2.3% to the GDP, 7% to the manufacturing production and 13% to the export earnings of the country, it is also the second largest employer employing around 45 million people as of 2019-20 (Invest India, 2020). A hand spun Indian heritage fabric Khadi is also one of the integral part of apparel segment, which was robbed off by the Britishers.The East India Company promoted cotton farming which was processed in mill as a textile and was later flooded back in the Indian market, thus, creating a downfall of Khadi(Sinha, 2018). The revival genesis of Khadi in historic India was credited in the name of The Father of the Nation-Mahatma Gandhi who proposed- SwadeshiMovement (synonymous to Khadi). The transformational fabric (Khadi Book, 2018)Khadi was looked as an icon of self-sufficiency, sustainability and employment.According to The Khadi and Village

Towards Excellence: An Indexed, Refereed & Peer Reviewed Journal of Higher Education/ Ms. Priyanka Raghani & Dr. Jigna Trivedi/ Page 782-795


Industries Commission (KVIC), the share of Khadi fabric in the total textile mill production has doubled from 4.23% to 8.49% in 2018-19, which is phenomenal in itself(Mistry, 2020) and it is owed to Prime Minister NarendraModi, who gave a clarion call to adopt Khadi(The Economic Times, 2019). Contemopary twist by brilliant designers, to the textitle heritage of India has transformed the farbic of political pioneer and rural people to fashion conscious people. Research in design, better weaving technology would convert the imperfect perfection Khadi into high quality garments of the future.As per the data of 2018-19 the mill fabric production is 2,012 million square meters versus 170.80 million squre meters of Khadi fabric production (The Economic Times , 2019), indicating that still Khadi is not worn by many people. Literature Review and Research Gap Khadi, the word is derived from the hindi word ‘Khad’ or ‘Pit’ (Gupta, Rastogi, & Mathur, 2018). Khadi, also known as ‘Khaddar’ is a hand spun and hand woven fabric originated from India. The natural resources used to manufacture handwoven material were wool, cotton and silk (Sinha and Sinha, 1984; Bajpai and Gahlot, 2011). Khadi promoted rural industrialization, self-employment, self-sufficiency, sustainablity and tool to boycott foreign goods. Thus, Khadi became iconic to Swadeshi movement during freedom fight (Khadi Book, 2018). Currently Khadi is viewed as a transformational fabric, which is a fusion of traditional and mordern hertiage, and it is worldwide (The Economic Times, 2019; Khadi Book, 2018) a favoured fabric due to its features such as similar to cotton material or supple like its silk, eco-friendliness, adaptable to easy print and embroidery work (Vivek, 2016; Gupta, 2016), cool fabric in summer and hot in winter (Ambre and Lad, 2017), bucolic and zero contraption appearance (Bajpai and Gahlot, 2011) and it is skin friendly due to its breathing behaviour (Chatterjee, Das, Kavita, and Nayak, 2011). Despite Khadi being the fabric of the Indian Independence Movement, Gandhiji legacy, a weapon of rural employment and periodic revamping of styles, it is still not able to catch the fancy of masses (Doctor, 2017). Thus, many researchers have tried to explore the reasons for not favouring Khadi. Anusuya and Banurekha (2016) elucidated that there was lack of awareness among masses regarding Khadi, so its education may be inculcated in the early education system of the country. Youths were not brand crazy, they perferred to buy the stylish unbranded apparels (Venter, Chinomona and Chuchu, 2016). Studies have also highlighted that present day mareketers offer inventive plans and new items to attract youths to buy the apparels . Lack of stylish design, varities, prints, proper surfaces (Ambre and Lad, 2017), accessiblity of apparel and affordable pricing, higher maintenance cost and colur fastness (Upadayay and Deodiya, 2013) did not attract the masses, to buy Khadi, created problem for the marketers to sell it. Kaur and Rathore (2017) suggested a remedy that more number of franchisees outlets in urban territories would lead to easy availability of Khadi apparel in urban areas. Available study contextually describes the genesis, advantages and disadvantages of Khadi. The empirical study to identify the challenges faced by the Khadi marketers in selling Khadi apparels are not cited in the literature. None of the empirical studies exhaustively explained the challenges



faced by the Khadi marketersand the reasons for people not wearing Khadi were studied in Gujarat. Present study attempts to address this gap. Research Objectives The research objectives are outlined in Table 1. Table 1: Research Questions, Context and Research Objectives Research Questions Context Research Objective How did Khadi originate? What is the role of Khadi in self-reliance and Independence? How Khadi is used in the current fashion trends?

Review of Literature

To appreciate the role of Khadi from a freedom fabric to fashion fabric.

What are the challenges faced by sellers of Khadi apparels?

Survey To empirically test the challenges faced by the Khadi Marketers in selling of Khadi apparels.

What are the measures to overcome the challenges faced by the Khadi marketers?

Suggestions To Suggest the measures to overcome the challenges faced by the Khadi marketers

(Source: Author’s Own Compilation) Research Methodology The research methodology is described in detail in Table 2. Table 2: Research Methodology Base Khadi Marketers Nature of Study Qualitative and Quantitative Research Design Descriptive Sub type of Research Design Single Cross Sectional Sample Size 120 Sampling Unit KhadiBhandhars Sampling Element Marketers/Sellers Sampling Procedure Non- Probability Sampling Sampling Technique Judgemental Sampling Sampling Area Ahmedabad, Gandhinagar, Vadodara, Rajkot

and Surat Sampling Duration 01st July, 2020 to 31st August, 2020 Data Sources Primary and Secondary Research Instrument for Primary Sources Questionnaire Research Approach Survey Contact Method Personal Visit Questionnaire Filling Method Self- Administered Data Processing and Management Microsoft Excel, SPSS Pictorial Representation Charts like Pie, Bar, Histogram Descriptive Statistics Measures of Central Tendency, Measures of



Dispersion, Max, Min, Rank Analysis, Weighted Average Mean

Inferential Statistics Shapiro Wilk Test, KruskalWalis Test (Source: Author’s Own Compilation) Data Analysis and Findings This Segment consists of the analysis of the data of the Khadi Marketers; i.e; Sellers of Khadi Apparels. The Survey was conducted through the mode of a structured questionnaire. The cities selling the Khadi Apparels in Gujarat in a larger proportion were taken in the survey, which were Ahmedabad, Gandhinagar, Vadodara, Surat and Rajkot (Gujarat RajyaKhadiGramodyog Board). Basic questions with respect to establishment of the Khadi units, years of existence, challenges in Khadi selling etc were inquired. The analysis is presented as follows.

Demographical Analysis The Demographic Analysis consists of the location of the khadi unit (bhandhar), gender of the marketer, years of experience of the unit and form of organization. Location of the KhadiBhandhar A question asking the location of the KhadiBhandhar was asked to the Marketers. The responses generated are described in the following Figure: Figure 1 Location of KhadiBhandhars

(Source: Excel Output) Many Gujarati cities manufacture and sell Khadi clothing. Based on a qualitative telephone interview with a KVIC official, the cities in which Khadi is sold most frequently were chosen for the survey. According to the data, Ahmedabad had the largest percentage of marketing units followed by Surat and Vadodara each with 18%, then Rajkot and Gandhinagar with 11%. These are considered the top five cities of Gujarat (Mahanagar). Due to the Covid-19 constraint, KVIC selected the marketers based on random convenience sampling. Gender of the Marketer We asked the respondent a categorical question to determine their gender. For the response, you could choose a male, female, or transgender option. In total, 120 respondents selected men and



00 selected women. This suggests that the entire Khadi Market, that is, the Bhandhars, is managed by men. There are no women involved in the selling of Khadi clothing. Years spent in work by the organization (KhadiBhandhar) As part of the survey, KhadiBhandhars were asked how long they had operated as KhadiBhandhars. According to the KhadiBhandhars' average experience, they have been in business as long as 25 years and the Standard deviation is 19 years. KhadiBhandharGramudhyogBhavan, founded in 1929 in Rajkot, is the earliest KhadiBhandhar in the world. Currently, there is a KhadiBhandhar in Ahmedabad named Shree JansewaKhadiGramudhyogBhavan that was established in the year 2019 AD. By examining the data, it can be concluded that the KhadiBhandhars began operating during the pre-Independence era and are operating today as well as promoting self-reliance and swadeshi.

Form of the Organization A categorical question was raised to the marketer to know the form of the organization (KhadiBhandhar). Sole Proprietor, Partnership or Others were the options put to avail the response. Figure 2 Form of the Organization (KhadiBhandhar)

(Source: Excel Output)

Reasons for Starting KhadiBhandhar and Type of Khadi Products Sold This unit comprises of the questions asked from the marketer such as reasons for starting a khadibhandhar, type of khadi products sold and types of apparels sold. Reason for Starting a KhadiBhandhar A question asking to rank the reasons for starting a KhadiBhandhar was probed to the Marketers with the options as Promote “Swadeshi, High Profit Margin, Encouraging Government Support, Less Competition and Inspired by Gandhian Thoughts on the scale as Rank from 1 to 5: 1= Highest and 5= Lowest. The responses were generated as follows: Table 3 Reasons for Starting a KhadiBhandhar

Reason Rank

Promote “Swadeshi” 1

High Profit Margin 4

Encouraging Government Support 5

Less Competition 3



2

(Source: Excel Output) According to the data, marketers are interested in selling khadi apparel as it promotes swadeshi- making it a swadeshi product, followed by the Gandhian thought, less competition, higher profit margins, and encouraging government support. Thus, a sentiment of swadeshi motivated them to open the store. Khadi products offered To determine what kind of products are sold at Khadibhandhars, multiple-choice questions were asked. Almost all marketers answered that they sell Khadi products. It was then attempted to find out what kind of Khadi products are sold by the marketers. According to the responses, Khadi apparel was available in all Khadi bazaars. About 24% of bhandhari shops sell both clothing and consumables. In addition to clothing, 30% of bhandhars sold handicrafts. Approximately 30% of bhandhars offered khadi beddings while another 21% offered other khadi products along with khadi apparel. According to the bhandhars, the following type of Khadi clothing was sold:

Figure 3 Types of Khadi Apparels Sold at Bhandhars

(Source: Excel Output) Respondents prefer Shirts (08%), Full Suits (08%), Pants (04%), Kurtis (08%), Denims (09%), Salwar-Suits (09%), Saree with Blouses (12%), and others (12%). The current fashion trend is the texture of Indian sovereignty. Previously considered dull, khadi is now available in a wide range of dynamic and tasteful shades. Top designers opted for this impressive texture. Khadi's excellent tones and solace are now known for their exceptional quality. The piece of clothing is a timeless classic. People accept it in everyday clothing in various forms. Buyers of Khadi Described in the following points are the questions asked of the marketer regarding the gender and age group of the buyer of Khadi, as well as sales of Khadi apparels.

Towards Excellence: An Indexed, Refereed & Peer Reviewed Journal of Higher Education/ Ms. Priyanka Raghani & Dr. Jigna Trivedi/ 82-795


Khadi Apparel Purchasers Marketers were asked which type of gender purchased Khadi apparel most often. Approximately 66% of buyers of Khadi are males, and 33% are females, according to the marketers. When asked about the age group of Khadi buyers, the following response was given: Figure 4 Age Group of Buyers of Khadi Apparels

(Source: Excel Output) Therefore, we can conclude that buyers of Khadi clothing most often fall into the 56 and older age bracket. Senior citizens prefer wearing Khadi because they consider it to be the most comfortable clothing. Individuals between the ages of 18-35, treated as youths, do not purchase and wear Khadi apparel. The Khadi Apparel Sales It was also asked whether sales of Khadi apparel had improved over the past five years. A majority of marketers responded positively, noting that Khadi sales have increased in the last five years. In addition to this question, a question was asked to identify reasons for the increase in Khadi apparel sales. The following table summarizes the responses. Table 4 Reasons for Increase in Sales of Khadi

Reasons for Increase in Sales of Khadi Percentage

Khadi is endorsement by the Prime Minister. 30

Khadi is promoted in Movies. 02

Khadi was promoted in Mann Ki Baat by the Prime Minister. 15

Designers have given a wide range of Variety in Khadi. 13

Khadi is promoted in Fashion Shows. 14

Khadi is Eco-Friendly Product. 05

Khadi is Swadeshi-Made in India Product 21

(Source: Excel Output) Accordingly, Khadifabric and apparel sales have grown by more than 164% over the previous five years because of the massive push by Prime Minister Narendra Modi and the powerful promotion by KVIC, in addition to the modernization and extension of Khadi stores throughout the nation.



Factors causing problems in Khadi apparel marketing A seven-point Likert scale question (7= Strongly Agree to 1= Strongly Dis-Agree) was used to identify the reasons as perceived by the marketer in the marketing and sales of Khadi Apparels. We computed reliability statistics and found that Cronbach Alpha for 22 items was 0.73. An alpha value of greater than 0.60 indicates acceptable reliability (Taber, 2018). Analyses were conducted on 120 respondents involved in the sales of Khadi apparel in Ahmedabad, Gandhinagar, Surendranagar, and Vadodra cities of Gujarat. The responses are summarized as follows: Table 5 Descriptive Statistics for the Reasons Leading to Problems in the Marketing of Khadi Apparels

Statements Mean Standard Deviation

Khadi apparels have a limited variety. 6.35 0.73

Khadi apparels are higher in price. 5.74 1.00

Khadi apparels require frequent starching at every wash. 6.27 0.80

Khadi apparels are poor in product design. 6.18 0.85

Khadi apparels are lacking in latest style. 6.28 0.83

Khadi apparels are sold at discounts as specified by KVIC. 6.35 0.73

Khadi apparels are not advertised. 5.96 0.96

Khadi is not endorsed by young brand ambassadors. 5.77 1.02

The advertisement of the Khadi apparels cannot be made for the store.

6.08 1.02

Khadi apparels are not available Online. 6.07 0.94

Khadi apparels Shrinks on washing. 6.08 1.02

Khadi apparels are not available for Kids. 6.33 0.78

If the Khadi product is defective it is easily replaced by the store.

6.01 0.94

KVIC provides credit when stores purchases apparels. 6.47 0.98

Branding is an issue with Khadi apparels. 6.28 0.83

The colour of Khadi clothes easily fades away. 6.27 0.80

Designer apparels are not made by artisans. 6.27 0.79

Customers demand designer apparels at stores. 6.47 0.70

Customers often ask for a guarantee on No Colour Fade. 6.27 0.80

Customers demand for a wrinkle free fabric. 6.47 0.70

Customers often do not buy the product as the proper size fit is not available.

6.27 0.80

Customers demand Khadi apparels Online. 6.47 0.68



(Source: SPSS Output)

Most of the statements had mean values greater than five, which indicated agreement with the statements. There was a low standard deviation among the respondents regarding the reasons cited in the empirical inquiry, which indicated a strong consensus.

Khadi Apparel Marketing Problems In order to understand the problem of Khadi apparel marketing, various dichotomous questions were posed to the marketers. In response to the first question, we were asked about discounts offered round the year on Khadi Apparel sales. The marketers responded that discounts are not offered year-round. Khadi sales usually increase only during Gandhi Jayanti in October, when discounts are offered. Additionally, the marketers were asked if stores could provide additional discounts beyond those imposed by KVIC, all of them replied in the negative. A second question was asked about the market potential for Khadi exports. 67% of marketers responded with a positive response, while the rest responded with a negative response. In response to the next dichotomous question, the marketers stated that the stores did not accept electronic payments. However, KhadiBhandhar stores still accept cash payments. One last question asked if the marketers were optimistic about the Khadi sector's future, and one hundred percent of marketers answered positively. When India was fighting for independence, the Khadi Movement gained independence. Once again, Khadi will be an essential component of achieving sustainable environmental freedom. An Evaluation of the Reasons Leading to Problems in the Khadi Apparel Marketing. A normality test was applied to check the normality of the data with respect to the reasons for marketing Khadi Apparels. Here are the results:

Table 6 Test Statistics for Normality Test With Reference to the Reasons Leading to Problems in the Marketing of Khadi Apparels

Statements Statistic df Sig.

Khadi Apparels have a limited variety. 0.77 120 0.00

Khadi Apparels are higher in price. 0.87 120 0.00

Khadi apparels require frequent starching at every wash. 0.79 120 0.00

Khadi Apparels are poor in product design. 0.81 120 0.00

Khadi Apparels are lacking in latest style. 0.78 120 0.00

Khadi Apparels are sold at discounts as specified by KVIC.

0.77 120 0.00

Khadi Apparels are not advertised. 0.85 120 0.00

Khadi is not endorsed by young brand ambassadors. 0.87 120 0.00


0.81 120 0.00

Khadi Apparels are not available Online. 0.82 120 0.00



Khadi Apparels Shrinks on washing. 0.81 120 0.00

Khadi apparels are not available for Kids. 0.76 120 0.00

If the Khadi product is defective it is easily replaced by the store.

0.84 120 0.00

KVIC provides credit when stores purchases apparels. 0.71 120 0.00

Branding is an issue with Khadi apparels. 0.78 120 0.00

The colour of Khadi clothes easily fades away. 0.79 120 00.00

Designer apparels are not made by Artisans. 0.71 120 0.00

Customers demand designer apparels at stores. 0.79 120 0.00

Customers often ask for a guarantee on No Colour Fade. 0.79 120 0.00

Customers demand for a wrinkle free fabric. 0.71 120 0.00


0.79 120 0.00

Customers demand Khadi apparels Online. 0.71 120 0.00

(Source: SPSS Output) A normality test was executed to check the normality of the data with reference to reasons in marketing of Khadi Apparels. The sample size is less than 2000, so a ShaiproWilk test was applied to check the normality. The hypotheses were framed as follows: Ho: Data is Normal. H1: Data is not Normal. It may be inferred that the p-value is 0.00< 0.05, therefore the null hypothesis is rejected. In other words it indicates that the data is not normal.If the data is not normal then the parametric test would not be suitable. Therefore, only non-parametric test is used in the further analysis. Kruskal Wallis-H Test on Marketers of Khadi A Kruskal Wallis-H Test on Marketers of Khadi was applied to check the significant difference on opinion of marketers of Khadi with respect to the marketing problems faced by them. The hypothesis was framed as, H0: Marketers of Ahmedabad, Gandhinagar, Vadodra, Surat and Rajkot do not significantly differ in their opinion on problems faced in marketing of Khadi Apparels. H1: Marketers of Ahmedabad, Gandhinagar, Vadodra, Surat and Rajkot significantly differ in their opinion on problems faced in marketing of Khadi Apparels. Table 7 Test Statistics for Kruskal Wallis-H Test with Reference to the Reasons Leading to Problems in the Marketing of Khadi Apparels

Statements Chi-Square df Sig.

Khadi Apparels have a limited variety. 1.84 4 0.76

Khadi Apparels are higher in price. 5.00 4 0.20

Khadi apparels require frequent starching at every wash. 0.97 4 0.91

Khadi Apparels are poor in product design. 4.86 4 0.30



Statements Chi-Square df Sig.

Khadi Apparels are lacking in latest style. 8.66 4 0.07

Khadi Apparels are sold at discounts as specified by KVIC. 4.42 4 0.35

Khadi Apparels are not advertised. 7.44 4 0.11

Khadi is not endorsed by young brand ambassadors. 4.16 4 0.38


5.81 4 0.21

Khadi Apparels are not available Online. 3.82 4 0.43

Khadi Apparels Shrinks on washing. 5.81 4 0.21

Khadi apparels are not available for Kids. 5.26 4 0.26

If the Khadi product is defective it is easily replaced by the store. 7.71 4 0.10

KVIC provides credit when stores purchases apparels. 0.77 4 0.94

Branding is an issue with Khadi apparels. 6.56 4 0.16

The colour of Khadi clothes easily fades away. 4.47 4 0.34

Designer apparels are not made by Artisans. 0.77 4 0.94

Customers demand designer apparels at stores. 0.97 4 0.91

Customers often ask for a guarantee on No Colour Fade. 0.55 4 0.96

Customers demand for a wrinkle free fabric. 0.77 4 0.94


4.47 4 0.34

Customers demand Khadi apparels Online. 0.77 4 0.94

(Source: SPSS Output) It may be inferred that the p-value is > 0.05; therefore the null hypothesis is not rejected. It may be understood that the marketers of Ahmedabad, Gandhinagar, Vadodara, Surat and Rajkot do not significantly differ in their opinion on problems faced in marketing of Khadi Apparels. The marketers have to strictly follow the orders of KVIC, they do not get any freedom for promotions and discounts. Thus, the problems faced by the marketers across different locations are same. These set of identical problems may be resolved if KVIC implements the strategy centrally. Therefore, KVIC must consider these problems and enable the marketers to resolve these problems. Conclusion and Suggestions The research was conducted to study the challenges faced by the Khadi marketers in selling theKhadi Apparels. It can be concluded from the research that the marketers selling Khadi can increase its sales when it has a lot of variety, available at affordable price and good designs, proper fit and style as designer apparels. Also, Khadi Apparels should be made in such a way that it does not shrinks on washing and retains its colour. Further, to increase its sales, Khadi apparels should be sold at good discounts frequently and different e-payment options should be made available to the consumers, advertised well by the stores as well as endorsed by young



brand ambassadors. Also, if Khadi apparels are available online on different online platforms, it can lead to increased sales. Managerial Implications In India, khadi is a fabric that is especially dear to Indians as it has a special association with the freedom movement. In order to market this yarn, KVIC should offer more varieties of Khadi, improve fittings and brand it as a brand product, make it accessible other than KhadiBhandhar (Khadi India Stores), and make it fashionable. For easy accessibility, Khadi apparel should be sold online by KVIC through different platforms. The sale of Khadi apparel must be handled by a dedicated website, which could showcase the latest designs, colors, and prices for ready-to-wear and ready-to-stitch clothing. The practice of discounts should extend throughout the entire year, rather than being exclusive to October. Young Celebrities should also promote Khadi to appeal to the youth. A proper research and development of the fabric is required to eliminate the complains inherent in the fabric.



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Ms.Priyanka Raghani Research Scholar/Assistant Professor

Shri Jairambhai Patel Institute of Business Management and Computer Applications, Ahmedabad

[email protected], 09998112391 &

Dr.Jigna Trivedi Research Guide /Associate Professor

Shri Jairambhai Patel Institute of Business Management and Computer Applications, Ahmedabad

[email protected], 09979607566

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