2013 International Textiles and Costume Congress ASSESSMENT OF CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE AND FRAGRANCE...

2013 International Textiles and Costume Congress 28-29 October 2013, Kasetsart University, Thailand

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ASSESSMENT OF CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE AND FRAGRANCE FINISHED FABRIC WITH CORRESPONDING

AND NON-CORRESPONDING PRINTS

Muhammad Anwaar Nazeer1*, Tabassum Aamir 2

1Department of Textile Processing, National Textile University, Pakistan. 2Department of Textile & Apparel Design, National Textile University, Pakistan

Abstract: The art of textile prints is extremely interesting and they are attractive for every age group. Innovations resulting from technological advancements represent one of the bests strategy for success in the increasingly competitive textile industry. Textiles are important part of our daily life that is available in a variety of colors, patterns and texture. Further to make fabric more interesting, a variety of textile finishes are being in use now a days. Application of textile finishing agents is still the primary approach for improving such properties. Fragrant finishing of textiles is one such immaculate magnanimous entry into any textile culture. This research is a contribution in the textile design sector. By application of textile design and fragrance finish can b produce value added products. In this study, researchers will develop a relationship between printed textiles and fragranance finished fabric regarding corresponding and non-corresponding textile designs.The relationship of textile design and textile finishing is very strong. In the present work the printed textiles fabric was developed with fragrance finishes to enhance the quality of textile substrate for apparel Corresponding & Non Corresponding prints on the fabric have been developed through Digital Printing method. Fragrance finsh have been used and applied onto the fabric by Pad Dry cure method. Then the assessment of customer experience about fragrant finished fabric with corresponding and non-corresponding prints has been done. The results have been assessed subjectively. Keywords: Fragrant, Finishes, Fabrics, Corresponding, Non-Corresponding, Prints

*Corresponding Author: [email protected] Introduction The textile designs and prints have been in use since ages. Without textiles, lifestyle would be very

different. Clothing can be more interesting by adding beautiful colors and prints in textile. With the

advancement of technology printing has not only become easy, but also production rate has gone

high. Due to higher production nowadays when market is full of textile prints, the customer’s

requirements according to textile prints are increasing and, they want something new. Textile

design sector is the bone of Pakistan's entire national economy that needs to be further strengthened

by adding and applying finishes. [1]

In demand to make new textile,moderate properties and value added Practical fabrics are being

established. The value added and functional fabrics can be made by using new technology, chemical

and finishes. They can also be manufactured by imparting functionaland chemical properties to

orthodox textiles. [2]

Our other senses are less active than sense of smell, it is 10,000 times active than others and the

judgment value of smell is instant. As reported by researchers, use of perfumes or other form of

fragrances have a long history in relations to human beings. [3]


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A study about first attraction to an item of clothing and fabric is the color, design, texture, feel of

fabric. These aesthetic or artistic values also influence how anybody feels about clothing and style.

While aesthetic values are personal learning to analyze fabrics for their color and texture helps to

select clothing or coordinate patterns and fabrics. Aesthetic awareness and sensitivity can be

developed or improved by analyzing fabrics for their aesthetic qualities. [6]

Objectives

The general objective of the present study was to investigate a relationship between fragrance finish

and print of fabric and their impact on customer's perception. It was conducted as an economic

assessment of such issues of textile sectors. The present study was conducted by the authors to

develop a relationship between design and technology. The particular objective of the study to

reduce cost of fragrance finished fabric by adopting this kind of procedure as a standard practice.

Objectives of present study are as follow:

• To assess relationship between fragrance finish printed fabric and customer experience.

• To study the effect of corresponding and non-corresponding prints with fragrance finish

fabric on the perception of customer.

Hypothesis

H1: Corresponding Textile print with low amount of fragrance is more effective on human

perception than non-corresponding textile print with larger amount of fragrance.

H0: there is no significance difference between less amount of fragrance finished corresponding

print and large amount of fragrance finished non corresponding prints.

Significance

This study was based on fragrance finish which imparts significant functionality to textiles. In the

present study the researchers have tried to develop a strong relationship between textile design and

fragrance finishes. This research is a contribution to the textile design sector, application of design

and finishes together and its use to obtain value added products. Researchers want to change and

improve the value of textile print design by using design and technology together. As the

application of digital printing technique on textile industry is moving in the fast lane, so the

researchers have used digital prints in this research and developed a relationship between print,

fragrance finishes and customer perception.

The researchers have tried to explore the assimilation of scents onto fabric, the assembly of fragrant

materials with corresponding prints to switch the response, and also the psychology of recognition


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of fragrance in textile design. Relationship marketing may be a helpful thought for understanding

customers, however during this study researchers had made a study to client relationships from a

unique and a more holistic perspective. In this study, researchers have tried to find out the lifetime

of fragrance finish on digitally printed fabric.

Materials & Methods

Materials

Table 1. Materials

Substrate: 100% bleached cotton, Construction 1/1 plain weave; 77.7g GSM fabric has been used for this

study. (Method: AATCC-20-A)

Fragrance oil: Jasmine oil have been used as fragrance finish. It is naturally extracted oils and available in the

local market.

Binder: Pronto fix binder, supplied by clarion®.

Softener: Silicon based softener.

Table 2. Fabric Specifications

Properties Values Standards

Fabric construction Plain weave

1/1

ASTM-20

Blend ratio 100% cotton -------------

GSM(g/mm) 77.7 g ASTM 3776

Ends per inch 80 ASTM 3775

Picks per inch 64 ASTM 3775

Warp count(Ne) 30 ASTM 1095

Weft count(Ne) 30 ASTM 1095

Warp tensile strength(kg) 50 kg ASTM 5035

Weft tensile strength(kg) 30 kg ASTM 5035

Warp tear strength(gm.) 400 g ASTM 1424

Weft tear strength(gm.) 200 g ASTM 1424

Crease recovery angle

Crease timing 1 min

Recovery timing 1 min

Crease recovery angle(warp wise ) ASTM D1295

Crease recovery angle (weft wise) 60 degree ASTM D1295


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Stiffness

Warp wise 5.69 N/m ASTM D1388

Weft wise 5.2 N/m ASTM D1388

Methodology

Phase 1: Development of textile designs

Phase 2: Printing of textile designs

Phase 3: Application of fragrance finish

Phase 4: Testing

Phase 5: Evaluation

On the basis of different types of fragrances available in market researchers selected on of

them i.e. Jasmine fragrance.

Researchers developed two textile prints:

One corresponding and one non-corresponding designs was developed according to the

fragrance.

Printing of the developed designs on fabric was done by digital printing method.

Application of fragrance was done by pad-dry-cure method.

Assessment of the customer's experience about fragrance finished fabric with corresponding

and no-corresponding prints was done. Target market is young ladies of age group 20-35.

sample size of 62 samples were taken for subjective evaluation, to estimate either hypothesis

is accepted or rejected. (There is requirement of 30 samples for MS degree, but researcher

used 62 sample sizes to make results more appropriate and authentic).

Development of Prints

In this phase researchers developed corresponding and non-corresponding textile prints

according to fragrance (i.e jasmine fragrance). Designs were made by using Adobe Photoshop

software CS 2®. One prints was corresponding to fragrance and one non-corresponding to

fragrance (i.e jasmine fragrance)

Figure 1. print Corresponding to Fragrance Finishes


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Figure 2. Print Non-Corresponding to Fragrance Finishes

Printing of Textile Design

Printing of textile design on fabric was done by digital printing.Digital textile printing is defined

as any ink jet based technique of printing colorants on fabric.It is a relatively new technology

with tons of applications. Most commercially existing fabrics are rotary screen printed; each

print runs is normally several thousand yards. The high minimums are due to the cost and time

required to prepare a unique set of screens, with each colour in a design requiring a separate

screen. The main advantage of digital production is the capacity to do very small runs of each

design (even less than 1 yard) because there are no screens to prepare. [4]

The ink-jet printing technology used in digital printing was first patented in 1968. In the 1990s,

inkjet printers became widely available for paper printing applications. The technology has

continued to develop and there are now specialized wide-format printers which can handle a

variety of substrates – everything from paper to canvas to vinyl, and of course, fabric.

The inks used in digital printing are formulated specifically for each type of fibre (cotton, silk,

polyester, nylon, etc.). During the printing process, the fabric is fed through the printer using

rollers and ink is applied to the surface in the form of thousands of tiny droplets. The fabric is

then finished using heat and/or steam to cure the ink (some inks also require washing and

drying). Digitally printed fabric will be washed and wear in the same way as any other fabric,

although with some types of inks, you may see some initial fading in the first wash. [5]

Application of fragrance finish:

Table 3. Equipment used for Finish Application

Equipment Model Manufacturer

Padder VPM 250-A Tsujii Dyeing Machine Manufacturing Co.

Stenter OPT-1 Tsujii Dyeing Machine Manufacturing Co.


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Fabric Pick-up% Measurement

Fabric pick up% was measured by Eq. (1) at different pad pressures before applying the finish.

The fabric was soaked in water for 5 minutes and then padded at 1 bar pressure. The pickup of

the fabric was measured using following formula:

Fabric Pick-up% = {(Wet weight - dry weight)/ Dry weight} x 100 Eq. (1)

Finish application

200ml solution of each finish was prepared using the recipe given in the Table. 4. Required

amount of Fragrance, binder and softener was taken in beaker, and volume was made to 200 ml

by adding water. Fabric samples were soaked in the prepared finish and left for five minutes.

The soaked samples were padded at 1 bar pressure (90% pick up) in order to take out the

excessive finish. The fabric samples were then dried at 110º C temperatures on stenter frame.

Table 4. Application of Fragrant Finish on Corresponding Print

Table 5. Application of Fragrant Finish on Non-Corresponding Print

Types of sample Fragrance Concentration (g/L) Binder

(g/L)

Softener

Silicon

(g/L)

Pad Pressure

(bar)

Drying

Temperature

(˚C)

Jasmine Oil

Jasmine (5%) 1.2 g 30 60 1 110

Jasmine (10%) 2.3 g 30 60 1 110

Types of sample Fragrance Concentration (g/L) Binder

(g/L)

Softener

Silicon

(g/L)

Pad Pressure

(bar)

Drying

Temperature

(˚C)

Jasmine Oil

Jasmine (5%) 1.2 g 30 60 1 110

Jasmine (10%) 2.3 g 30 60 1 110


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Results and Conclusion

Subjective testing

In first part researchers made two prints on floral patterns. Sample ‘A’ is with fragrance finish

and sample ‘B’ is without fragrance finish. To check the result for:

Comparison between impacts of fragrance finish printed fabric and printed fabric without

fragrance.

In second part researchers made two prints, one is floral print (corressponding print) and the

otherone is abstract print (non-corressponding). And, applied same amount of fragrance finish.

To make:

Comparison between impact of fragrance finishes with corresponding and non-

corresponding prints on consumer perception.

In third part researchers made two prints, one is floral print and the other one was abstract print.

And, apllied less amount of correessponding fragrance on corresponding print and large amount

of same fragrance on non-corressponding prints. To evaluate the:

Corresponding Textile printed fabric with low amount of fragrance is more effective on

human perception then non-corresponding textile printed fabric with larger amount of

fragrance. Close ended Questioner was developed for subjective testing to assess the consumer response to

access the following:

Comparison between Impacts of fragrance finish printed fabric and printed fabric without

fragrance.

Comparison between impact of fragrance finishes with corresponding and non-

corresponding prints on consumer perception.

Corresponding Textile printed fabric with low amount of fragrance is more effective on human perception then non-corresponding textile printed fabric with larger amount of fragrance.

Questioners were filed by 62 females Respondatns(target markete) having age between 20 to 35 years. The sense of smell of all respondants was 100% i.e normal without any defect and respondatns did not use of any kind of nasal spray.


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Table 6. Design of Experiment for Subjective Testing

Subjective

Testing

Prints Prints Assessment

Subjective

Testing # 1

Samlpe A

Fabric with fragrance

Sample B

Fabric without fragrance

Comparison between

Impacts of fragrance

finish printed fabric and

printed fabric without

fragrance.

Subjective

Testing # 2

Samlpe C

Same amount of fragrance

Samlpe D

Same amount of fragrance

Comparison between

impact of fragrance

finishes with

corresponding and non-

corresponding prints on

consumer perception.

Subjective

Testing # 3

Samlpe E

Less amount of fragrance

Samlpe F

Large amount of fragrance

Comparison between

impact of less amount of

fragrance finish on

corresponding print and

large amount of fragrance

finsh on non-

corresponding print on

consumer perception.

Results for subjective evaluation

Total no. of respondents

available no of respondents

Subjective evaluation 1



values 62 100% 58.1% 66.1% 58.1


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Bar Charts for Subjective Evaluation

1st subjective evaluation

This figure shows that mostly recipient like the print with fragrance finish

2nd subjective evaluation

This figure shows that mostly recipient like the corresponding print with corresponding smell.

3rd subjective evaluation

This figure shows that mostly recipient like the corresponding print with less amount of fragrance. The results were significant for subjective testing. Results showed that there was a significant

impact of fragrance finish with corresponding prints on customer’s response and can make less


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expensive fragrance finished Corresponding printed fabrics for apparels. Corresponding prints with

fragrant finishes are more attractive and eye catching than simple fabrics or Non Corresponding

prints having fragrant finishes with equal or even less amount of finish.

Therefore our hypothesis, Corresponding Textile print with low amount of fragrance is more

effective on human perception than non-corresponding textile print with larger amount of fragrance,

is valid and significant.

This impact on customer behavior may be utilized in value addition of Textile Industry.

Refrences [1] Teal, S. G. ECONOMIC ANALYSIS OF COTTON TEXTILE FINISHING PROCESS [2] María M. Miró Specos & Germán Escobar. Aroma Finishing of Cotton Fabrics by Means of

Microencapsulation Techniques, Journal of Industrial Textiles, No. 1, pp. 13–32. [3] Rodriguez-Gil, G. The Sense of Smell: A Powerful Sense, Available from

http://www.sfsu.edu/~cadbs Accessed: 2013-07-07. [4] Desmond, J. Introduction to Digital Fabric Printing. Textiles and Inputs, Available from

www.fiber2fashion.com Accessed: 2013-06-15 [5] Creamer, F. Introduction to Digital Fabric Printing, Available from http://fashion-

incubator.com/archive/introduction-to-digital-fabric-printing/ Accessed: 2013-07-07 [6] Koester, W. A. (2009, JUL 2). Family and Consumer science. Home Economics Research

Journal, Issue 2, Volume 13, 153–158. doi: 10.1177/1077727X8401300206 Acknowledgement The Authors would like to acknowledge the facilities and infrastructures provided by Department of Textile Processing, National Textile University, Faisalabad & Department of Home Economics, G.C University, Faisalabad.

http://www.sfsu.edu/~cadbs

http://www.fiber2fashion.com/

http://fashion-incubator.com/archive/introduction-to-digital-fabric-printing/

http://fashion-incubator.com/archive/introduction-to-digital-fabric-printing/

2013 International Textiles and Costume Congress ASSESSMENT OF CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE AND FRAGRANCE...

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