• UTIOUL llCHIYES & PUBLIC" IECHIS SUYICU

Df PAPUA IEW CUllU

DISTRICT: GU(F

STATIQN: BAIMURU VOLUME No: 6 . .

ACCESSION No: 496.

1965 - 1966

Pilmed by/tor the National Archive1 or Papua New Cuinea, POR~ MORESBY - 1989.

Sole Cu1todian : National Archive1 or Papua New Cuinea.

 

 

PapuaNewGuineaPatrolReports 

Digitizedversionmadeavailableby

 

 

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TERRITORY OF PAP A. A\fD NEW G INEA

PATROL REPORT

District of ........ 9'P.~ ................................................. Report No .. .... 5..~ ~.5./9. ..... . · ... ~Af.ffinW ............... .

Patrol Conducted by ................. -l.~Jlli .. }W ... P.~f:'i ... ... 77 ..... Ms.:ut ·.Af:~+. .. P.~~-~RJ.GA:'. .. O.f.F..lQ~ .•....

PORTIO IS OF PF;PIKE AND UPP PUB I CENSUS DIVISION Area Patrolled ......................... ... ................. ....................................... ....... ........ ...... ...... ...... ...... .... ......... .

tr0l Accompanied by Europeans .... ~-~~-~ ............... ..... ... ..... ................ .

Natives .. ~ . . ~~~~~~-----~----~ .. : . .'~.~~--~~~~ ..... ~ .. BOATSCREW.

Duration-·From .. L .. ; .. U . .;196. .... to .. .' .. .;..J.2./19.65 ... - 19/1 2/65 to 22/12/65

Nu.,\ t of Days ...... 3.~ ....... ....... ...... ............................. ... ... ..... .

Did Medical Assistant Accompany? .......... . 1.0 • ... fltld .. I:I • .A . ........ ..

2 ~5 Last Patrol to Area by-District Services ........ / ...... .jl9R .. ..

Medical NIL ............ / ........ /19 .... ... .

Map Reference ............ 9~ .. : .ltR .. 9f ... ~J.~9.~U .. 1 • IJ."N.l .. .. ... ...................... ......... ....... .............. .. .... .... .

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... ........ .......... ...... ............. .............. ...................................... ........ .... ............ ··· ······ ·· ·· ············· ········· ··············

Director of Distnct Administration,

PORT MORESBY.

Forwarded, please.

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mount Paid for War Damage Compen ation

Amount Paid from D.N.E. Trust Fund .. ..

Amount paid from P.E.D.P. Trust Fund ....

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t of the Lake • o JMtOpl• to the eooct arable • • alMl b7 1 reaoiJW the work t • will Aleo

ple. opl• flt th Parar1 RiY•r area an t1ot tu: full ~tap

of .b crocodile 8k1n 11Ml • 'I' •1 •oul.4 n to aft11 ••l•• ot t his read117c aTa1la 1• aouroe of mio 1•

A o t c dul patrol, an4 o t!lat • '11• p~ of a ra in th Adaini tration ot the Upper Purar1 an4 pike C•DMl8 D1Y1•1o

prni.4 , of coune, that •• pt M•tuate •ta:ft and traa8 rt to do tile job.

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OIIDAY. 1. 11 • 65 .

lEUSDAYo 2.11.65

WEDNESDAY. 3.11.65.

THURSDAY. 4.11.65.

FRIDAY. 5.11.65.

• 5 Of 1965- 66 -

PA'i1 OL DIARY.

Final patro pr ep rat ion; p trol mixed an canoe lodded. Un er way at 10-1 5 a. rn .. powered by eh rtered 4o h.p. Johnson outboard . Passed qpuna L.M.,. hospi t al after 1t hours and entered Purari rive1· a t 12.10 p . m. The Purari is in flood and oing slower than usual 4 any new food gardens noticed as we came closer to Pawaia No. 1. Al.so saw log r aft with about 800 lbs. of fresh vegetables on board. Arrived Pawaia No. 1 at 6.05p.m. after pushine heavy cur rent all ay. Met by advanc~ party who left Baimuru yesterd~y afternoon. et up camp. Slept Pawaia No. 1.

adio set up. At ~empted cont ft wontact with Kerema. No success. ill try a ain at 11.30 a.m. People assembled and medically inspected by Hospital Assistant Duwang and H/O Pimiri. Those requiring it were given treatment in rest housea Then held ceneral discussions with all present on general aspects of village life and eceonomic activity. Al.so discussed decimal currency. Tried to raise Karella at 11.30 a.m. Unsucce sful. Further talks with people on planting off coffee and rubber. Attempted radio c~ntact 1.40 - 2.20. No joy. Rest of afternoon spent in talks with people and hearing or comple~. nts. Two C.N.M. cases also heard. Camped at Pawaia No. 1.

First canoe away at 6.10a.m. Atempted radio contact with Kerema. As usual no success. Finally lett Pawaia Ro. 1 at 8.45 a.m. for Koni. Current is becoming stronger every mile. Passed the abandoned village or favaia o. 2 at 10i20 and the junction of Tsubu and Purari rivers two hours later. Observed some large Okari trees or millable size several yards in from river bank. OverhaUl.ed tirat canoe and continued on to Xoni to arrive at 3.35p.m. Set up camp. The other canoe struggled in at 4.15 after making he-vy work of several sets of rapids. Spoke with village o!tic!als and erected radio aerial . Purchased tood. Camped Koni.

Canoe despatched to Uraru at 7.30 ~.m. for collect petrol. Attempted radlo contact with Kerema from 8.05 till 8.50. II Usual result. People assembled at 9.00 a.m. and medicaU.J ins~ected. Treatments given where necessary. Village Constable tendered his resi nation. He is engaged in crocodile hunting and is often absent from the tillage for as long as 9 months. Resignation accepted. New appointment made subject to confirmation by Director. Discussions with people on economic activity and local affairs. __ !4yised against ~ proposed move by this village on17 100 ~s down the Purari as very tev p ple ae• to arrive and buile on the new site. A case in point beiDC the small village of Uri who were going to amalgaaate with Koni. Only 2 families did so, the rest being spread around the country in kombatis. v.c. advised to contact these people and have them builG houses in the village. Fu?-tner talks with people and then began hearing one C.N.M. c,se. Requested carriers for walking section or patrol, however none came forward. Camped Kon!.

First canoe away at 7.45 after ~ e tuel trouble. Self

SATURDAY.. 6.11.65

SU DAY. . 7.11.65

MONDAY. 8.i1.65

TEUSDAY. 9.11.65

departed Koni : t 8.45 for Uraru after unsuccessful a t tempt at adio contact . alle in at C. D •• streamgv.ager•s

cam and at ern ted t o call oresby on their radio. Finally ga e up nd left for Ur e.ru vi la e t 9. 55 . River quite strong now and going slow. Arrived Uraru at 1.15 after passing t e other canoe several miles downs~ream. Set up camp in mi ssion house. Inspec ~ ed airstrip ~hich is under construction cl ose to the village. Al.so inspect Ai•-post in company with resi ent N. M.O. People gathered and medically i Llspected. Trie~ r adio . Much to my astonishment r~ised Ihu, Kainteba and Kukipi , n my first call. This was rather fortunate as I had made up my mind to leave the radio here until I returned if no contact wes made today or tomorrow . Will now take it with me. Made arrangements to speak to people in the morning. Camped Uraru.

Spoke with Ihu on radio and arranged further sked. times for next week. People assembled for general talks. Dj.scussed the t'ompletion of airstrip which is now approx. 2l+o yard· long. Al.so talked about rubber and coffee gard~ns. These people are quite keen but will need to be quided carefully. Heard 3 C.N.M. cases - one conviction and two sidcharged. Request made tor carriers which sparked off much discussion and arguments on rate or pay. Finally 26 men presented themselfea aa being willing to come along at 2/3 per day plus rood. v.c.•s requested to recruit more as we wiJ l need at least l+o to 45. Rations broken up into manageable 1 oada. 1 sued Extension SerYice radio set to .lit Post Orderly and supervised erection ot aerial. Order~y given detail instructions in its use and utilisation. Further discussions with v.c. 1 1 in the evening. More carriers recruited. c,mped Uraru.

Rose early and commenced loading of canoes tor the short trip to ai Creak where the walking starts in earnest. Two trips will be made as gear and curriers torm a reapect­a le load. First canoes away at 6.50 after tearful farewells. Canoes returned at 9.1+-0 loaded uJ> once again with remainder of gear and carrJ.ers. Departed at 9.50 for ai Creek. napids guite frightening at times. Arrived Wai Creek at 11.,5 and iegan allocating gear. Still a f ew carriers short with 42. S L.arted walking north east along bank of Wai Creek. Pass Mr. Bonds old camp (Kikori Patrol No . 7 - 64/65) at 12.20. Branched off into Pau Creek, 2.45. Continued along bed or same and made camp on the b~ at 4.10 p.m . Fly erected and carrier rationed. am.ped.

Radio contact with Ihu at 8.oo a.m • .lrranged sked. time with Ba1muru. Departed camp at 8.45 a.m. and followed Pau Creek for 15 minutes branched off and climbed teep ridge. Stopped on top to wait tor carriers who were making hard work o _· 1 t. ill present at 11.47 so began steep desce~t to Whima River. alked on up t . e bed or the Whima River . Walked on up the bed of the Whilae. to arrive at Trabedesari at 12.45. Last of the carriers including Constable 1/C Nohar~ did not arrive until 2.10p.m. Set up c&mp quite close to the village which consists ot 3 meJiua sized dubus. 1'here are many people absent in ~he gardens so will camp here tomorrow to see them all and conduct medical inspection. Ample fresh tood purchased mainly with salt and mathces. Camped Trabedesati.

. . . . °' · · / • ' I 6

TEUSDAY. 9.11. 65 .

1 EDNESDAY. 10.11.65

THURSDAY. 11.11.65

FRIDil. 12.11. 65

3

People ss emble early morni ng an medic lly 1 1 pected. One case of pneumonia diagnosed and t r eat ed; a ew small cut s and sores fixed up. There ls an ex-prisoner from ikori (3 years for murder) here ki g himself useful.

He commands a great deal of respect from the other villagers. Held general t alks with people. Five of them ha e previously worked at Era Sawmill as lagourers and speak ui t e good motu. These people are thinking of returning to the village site at Ura which they abandoned several years ago when several people died. 1he reason for this mo e is th t there is insufficient sago at Trabedesari. This is probably tru as I was unable to pur has any more fresh foods today. Further general discussions durin J the ay. equested carriers and rive young men immediately volunteered. They are most enthusia~tic, but I wonder how long their e thusiasm will last once they ~et underneath a patrol box. ~amped Trabedesari.

Ros early and eparted cam site at 7~50. Follow h~ River downstream to Ir u Riv r. Br eh oft

int the bush for a whil an then rorded t e Irou ~s above r. Bond's Lridge site 1 ori Pat rol o •

. -Ulf./6)) Gained old village of Ur at 11.4)p.m. Another crossinb 01 he Irou then ~ ~u ged vhrou&h a10 s amp knee deep in mud a11d slus • rj ·,ad on banks of Samia Creek 2.20p. 1. Followed th 1 upstr to arrive at suitable c&Jnp ite at 3.00 p. • Fl7'• erected and carri r$ rationed. Dug hole and ex necl soilwhich is m inly c posed of decayed Yegetabl tt r. Camped bank3 of Samia Creek.

De1 arted camp at 7.45a.m. Followed Samia Creek and at 8.30 br nched off and climbed ~•all hill and tound a cleared garden site with t~o small houses. Two a n and two women making sago. This place, called Paria, is a sago camp of Lalabatau which is in turn a sago camp or Tobare. edical a~tention given and then pre sed on, once more along the bed or the Samia. At 2.30 came to a tork in the creek and observed broken bo s an a'rows stuck in the ground in a rou&h circle. Explanations requested. Our guide ho comes rrom Lalabata claims t hat it signifies that a hou e haa recently fallen down and these are the bows and arrow that ere in the house. This is scornfully rejected b7 the police and cs.rriers who say that the weapons belonged to people who were ei her killed or driven orr in a tight. ent on to ar1·ive at Lala'batau at 3 .45p.a. Place

completely deserted. The gui e now t•lls me that the Tobare v.c. has taken everyone into the bush because some people became sic · and died. Message sent ror tne people to gather here an e will see them on our return trom the Siligi area. Fly's erected and carriers fed. vamped L labatau.

Messenger despatched to Tobare people to have the• come to oaru today o~ tomorrow. Departed Lalabatau at 7.45 for !obare. Track quite good; difficult places are bridge and corduroy sections span mud holes. Arrived Tobare at 9.30 to find the 5 large dubus coa-pletely deserted . Decided to press n to Koaru where

4

cont . we a rived at 10 . 50 , only to find this vil la e is also

SATURDAY.

deserted. 'et up camp and sent out messengers who know the area to find the people and tell them ' .. 'e will wit here till they come donw. At 1.00 p.m. village Constable ari of Haub ere, which is the next vil lage up the valley, presented \limself. One of our messenge .. :s had apparently gone through to Haubrere d found all the people in the village. The v.c. advised tha the men were on the way with fooa and that the women would follow early in the mor ing. This will alter my plans somewhat as I had intended to sleep at Haubrere but ill now go straight to Urupio The Haubrere men turned

up at 3.00 with a quant i ty of sago and bananas wlich were purchases. If all goes according to plan we should see three village group in the morning; HaubreTe, Tobare and Koaru. If not we may see the absentees when we return from the Nosonu area. Camped Koaru.

13.11.65 The oaru v.c. presented himself last night togeth1r with about 12 men. He reports that the rest of the village is camped some 2 days walk to the South west. He 111 go and get them when we leave tomorrow and they will be gathere here when we return from the Nosonu village 1n about a weeks time. Radio conversation with Baimul'U

SU DAY.

at ?.30. Dictated telegram for A.D.c. Kikor1 re1arding patrol movements etc. I have been unable to rai e Kikori either direct or through Kerema. People began dribblinl in at 9.00. They are all Haubrere's. rio sign or the Tobare people as yet. Much fres. tood ~urchase. Medical inspection commenced at 11.00 and completed at 1.00. Nothing serious discovered. Lunch .hen Yent to the dubu for general discussions. falked with v.c. regarding RO AT I ~he alleged ri'-g leader ot ~h Kokong massacre. It appears that Borovatari is now living between Haubrere village and the Boro village. During These talks the village constables from Urupio and Sa etau arrived. They were on their way tG Kikori to report the mu~der of an Urupio woman by tour Boro men. Boro is about 6 hours wal~ North east ot Saketau and just south ot Pupitau village. Pupitau is at present administered by Brave in the Southern Highlands District. I will investigate this matter on arrival at Urupio. The Urupio v.c. also reports that the us­pecte murders Haritari and Kato are at present 1n the village. This would seem like a good time to apprehend them. Arranged with the v.c. tor a party to return to urupio early in the morning and grab them. I will take t e v.c. from Haubrere plus police into the mountains in an effort to apprehen Borowatari. It's about tlme these people were rounded up. Finalised arrangements. Camp will remain here untAl Monday morning when we will return an ' move own along the Urupio road. Camped at oaru.

14.11. 65 Urupio party off at 5.~5a.m. Self and police lett at 6.15. Climbed range just behin Koaru, descended and then climbee eight more moWltains, which, acco ding to our guides should not be there. Tracks ent from bad to foul. .ainly bare limestone which took heavy toll on everybody's feet. Passed the s pot where the Boro r i ver pass s undergro~d. At i.oo p.m. came close to th place where Borowatari is sai to be livine . Sen~ the Koaru .c. and a small boy ah~ad to spy out thG lie of the land. At. 1.30 the boy returned to report that Borowatari was in a s ago camp maki ng a

. .

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cont .

MOI DAY . 15.11.65

TEUSDA • 16 .11. 65

5

g den . t 1. 45 surround d the s go p tch a;i move i:i . 2 . 0; it a · l over ia.r t _ P- shou.tine nd Bor~'r:i.t ar· h , elu 'e s ~g n . D e to a ;ortio of t he rty ovl in too S)On voro atar· h amp e 1 rnin • le t_c women bega ye ~ ing nd yahooin . e ap ar ntly throu~h here w s a fig t oinb on nd

came running o enti ci. h" 1 ; an caugh 1,, a gl · mps of one of the enc · rclin:; police . He imrn di~tely reve se his di e tio an ' shot u a mol nt i ru d was not s .e a ~in. Sat own and ~alk t to inhc ·~ ant o t1 s go canp wlo a-re oaru eo le . I hi "brolined off " ade ately desc i . es our f eel ings at thi time . Le t at 2.4o to egin the ~ong w k bac to ou~ camp at Koaru. There i no water on the trac - and ~e are all f el in the lac of same rather adly. Cons ucntly t he pace is pain ully slow. Attained to t o of the lest range just on dark . Forttmately I ha vhe oresight to bring torches and the 1 st 2t h ur we descended by torchlight . uts and abrasion~ froc nuner0us spills on t he limestone suffered by all. Finally arri ved at cqmpsite at 9 . 30 p.m. after 15 hours on the track without food or water. Camped Koaru.

Departed camp a t 9. 4o a. m. for Urupio vil laeo. J.'he track i s fah ·ly good al though r ather ruu dy. Climbed sharply to Haubrere village at 10.30 a.m. Rested thon descended sharply over recently felled logs. Continue~ along fai ly level track with occasional patches of shar p limestone . ested in a l imestone cave tha contained two human s l s and several lower jawbones. At 1 • "10 p .m. met the U1·upio party with the two okong rai ers, Haritari and Kato. ent on an made camp near the only suitabl water before Urupio. Apparently we cannot reach th village tonl~ht. Campe erected and carriers rationed. Camped .

De arted camp at 8.20. oad rather mushy with frequent atches of limes tone. Descended through a garden

into Urupio at 11.30. People most helpful in putting up camp . hey have ev n cleared an ~rea r~r a rest house. ent to view the b dy of murdered woman while camp was being set up. Saw the place where she was axed to death and th1·own down A hole in the limestone.

hen ent to see the body which the people have placed on a platfo rm a out 8 f eet from the ground. From where we stood I could see wounds on t he he d. From the look of her she would be about 20 years oln and has been dea.d no longer than 1 O days. '!'he ki 1 ing look lace bout 150 yards from the village an ~he raiders

s laQ ed trees and b•shes indiscrimina t ly as ~hey left the area~ The four men respons1 le are trom Boro village which is about f hours hard walk ..SS noTth from Sa e ~au village. ill have to go up and apprehend them. At 1.00 p.m. the villag constable from Koaru presented himself with the news that Borowatari as in his village. I: ediately organised police patr 1. They can sl eep at Haubrere tonight an( apprehend this man early 1n the morning and return her e the same d y. Party underway at 2.l+-5p.m. ook statement from the sole witness of the murder mentioned above. Purchased fresh food~ Cam ed rup1o.

ED. I 0AY 17 . 11 . 5

TEUH~ AY. 18. 11. 6'../

•' I D Y. 19.11.65

f o fi nd that th .c. had allowe many o to the ga r~ens, contrary to ins uctio. s .

t 1 turn. · aaio co1versation with n.n.c. at 8 .1 5 . . quest ed that he advi e Er ve (S . H. D.) and A.C •• Ki kor i th t I will be roce~di g into the Pupitau ar a as fa r as oro

viJlage t o ap rehend four murde · suspects. Patrol personnel taking the o portunity to wash an dry

ear and bedding. VilJ a.gers finally meandered in a t 11.00 an were assembled and medically inspected. Only one case of yaw s se :..n. Fresh f ood purc r a.se '1 "or carriers mid ay meal. Pared down the carrier lin by paying off many o~ the Halauin who had attached t hemselves to the pa :ol as guides and relief carriers. v.in~h an~ then people gathere toget er again for general iiscussions. At 12.~5 the police patrol reported in with Borowatari in custody. He is the last of the Kokong raiders to be brought in. The T~trebare man, ?9tie, is reported to have died. will check up at Saketau. Gave a talk on the Admin. many signs of approval althou .h I doubt if it SWlk in very far. Discussed village affairs generally in­cluding the recent murder. All were advised that this pat1vl woUld endeavour to arres L the partici ants. Bought more fresh food with salt which is now runl\ing short4 Camped Urupio.

Depart~d U~ ·:iio a. t 8.10 for Sa etau village. Took a rack whi~h by-passed the e erted village or Tetrebare on the other side of the valley. Road is wide and hilly in patches. I n other patches it VC111ishes and progress is slow "'1l1ilst a new r ead is cut. Arrived at the first uut1.ying dubu of Sake t au, called Lekebari , t 11.50. Learned from two small boys tha t the Be1·0 murders had glven themsel'fes up to the Sa etau courcillor who has caken them to Kikori. Pressed on and crossed the Siligi river at 12.50. ihen climbed several stiff hills to arrive in the main village of Gaketau at 1.10. Camp set up on a h1Jlsid'-' as there is practically no flat land here. The five main dubus are per~hed upon hilltop with one end on the ground and the other end sometimes as !lUCh as 20 feat from th.~ .i; rounu. Mada arrangements to see all vi:.lage peopl .:. in tho r. or ·ing. Spoke to some men who advise that tha Baro killers Dol We and

a j a have been taken to ~kori. Kaie is st 11 at a.ro and will send a party off to find him first thing in the morning. Fresh rood purchased includes sago, pwnpkin, cabbage and mimia. Runner ent out to contact "1;!-'e :tkaJ . nn !)eople wh• are in the hills so .~where. They r e to come here tomowro" for t alks , med:..cal, and to have replacement V.C. appointed. Camped at Saket~u.

Party to Bo"':O vil lage off at 6 .1 5 this morning. Sent Messengers to al outlying dubus and houses for tte people to assemblP. Tried t0 ~ ·aise Kerema on the radio ut m~ch st~ ~ic. V!J l~g~r~ assembled after much shouting e c. Medical!.:f inspected all :md tr~atments given where required. Then held t lk~ which included t • .1.e a1 s of the Administratio i. .. e V .c. waa reminde of his duties as he seems a it los t in his own village. ~yet no .i _;n of the i k rapou people.

cont.

' ATLH AY. 20-11-65

SU D Y. 21.1 1. 65

7

Pu chased resh food in the f ernoon. S ock oi s lt is almost nil so will ave to ely on other fo r ms of tr e e . g . matches and r o. zor blades . 11alked

o v r'ous people who crone up t o he camp . No si n of the police patrol $ent to 0ro. Cemped ketau.

Th vill ge constabl e came in last nigh ~ to report on the two messengers he had sent out to conta~t the Tikarapou peoples. Ap pa ·ently ~hey had arrived at ~he laRt outlying du u where they paus ed to catch their ~reath. They must have lost consi erable wind dur·ng the hour long walk as the/ failed to prec eed any further in the next 12 hours. Hence the non arrival of th , ~ ikarapou's. Obtaine the services of a reliatle ruuJer to con . a~t the rl'ikarapou peoples and have ~he~ gatler at Urupio Loday or tomorrow morn~ng without fail. Sat down t o await olice party r~om Boro . ~hen they arrive we wi will move back o

rupio. Contacted erema on the radio and requested conversation with ikori who failed to come up. Helf further talks with · eople at 9 .30 p. • · o11c e patrol reported in at 10.15. A, parently the tour murdars and nov three as we had been told, were .aken to ikori. acked up and ~~ok~ c~up. Left Saketau at 11.45 for Urupio village. D~scended to the S111gi river and followed it until 2 .15. Th :n branchP,d off and climbed several .. : all M.11~ to arrive at the &bandoned dubu of' etrebare at 2.45. lasted and sett off again at 3 .1 5 for Urup1o . Track excellent an we arrived at our old campsite n~ar the village after only j O minutes walking . Our r'.lllller to the Tikarapou peoples arrived with the news that the whole village had gone down t o amaleamate with the ~uru peoples at Sera. Thi s wiJ l mean tha t e can go on to Hau rere and Koaru.

om rrow. Camped , at Urupio.

Left Urupio at 6 . 3oa .m. • J• and murder witness ac com ~nying us back to Ki r .. ori. Made good time and arrived at our old campsie at 9 . 00 . ~nterpreter Epas we11t down th hill to get some water and a few min•,t.es 1 ter returned as though jet proptlled . Apparentl1 he had been wandering along with his eyes fixed on the ground. He had raised them suddenly an found himse f confronted with a corpse on burial platform . He took to hi s heels with his original erand long forgott~n.

e t to view th corpse which t ned out to be one of tl e Trabedesari men .. o ere fo l owing the patrol hoping to find em loyme!lt at ikor i . 'l' ey had left the patrol ~ t Urupio to r t: . .a·n ome ·hen t hey found out that we were not ~0~11 , down t o Kikor·i from Saketau . Continued on to a ... rive at l'aubrere a t 12 .00. Heste while the Gar ri rs ate sago that had P.en prepared for th~m. ·ent on at 1.00 to arrive at our old campsite at Koaruat 1.45p .m. Met by Sikabile t he man from Scnadau whom 1e toox<.. o i~ imu u e~ lier this year . ., amp erect d . . e~s of the To ~ re people Lrou0 ht forwar. 'l'hey are in th bu3h s .11 , ~ere between S.\mia Creek an th~ Jur~ vii la e of ~era. It wo d take us about a weets wall out of our way so am arced t 0 give them

miss on this ~ r· p . 1h oaru pco•le re coru ng 1 tn shoulJ 1 e he e in t he morning . Fresh food purchased . Cam d ~o aru .

• • fJ AY . 22 .1 1. 65

' ~Jo JAY . 23-11-65

iDNESDAY 2li--11-65

o cted ~ere a wlt view to s e aking to . D. C. ikori but as usual ikori failed to come

up . o ru people as ~ embled at 9. 30 and inspected by medieal t eam . Talked to villagers about general m t te rs, avail bi ity o work at i kori and aimuru etc . lso spoke , ith man from Senadau villag reg~r inr t he est track t o his vi l ge and t 'reb a area . Be t bit off colour so Duwang took . y t ern r tur • It / s 104° so p·cked of f to bed an dosed with

a quin. C . ed Koaru.

Departed oaru at 7.15 for Sena lau vil lage fee l ng like death t1a rmed up. Ar ived a t Lalabatau aft er 1 hour and 20.minutes wal over a good t rack. ' hen branched oft u t e ran~ c in an

ast rly irection. Goi~g s ow as we must c t a tracA plus the fact that 1e are travell ing over srarp 1 imestone. ~ ravelling is made harder sti l by there being no \·.:ater on the trac1 .• A rived at Senadau vil lage a t 2.45. Eve-~vone thir ~ ~y and exhausted. Senadau is dese~ ~ j and seYeral burial platforms expl ain the exodus. Apparently three men ied of dysentry which caused the rest of the village to decamp. Continued on closer to a small creek and finally sta•ted to p~epare c~p at 3.15 .m. It appears ihat some of the ~ village is in a sago kombati oot far below us and should have no trouble in getting them ~h fo1~ initial census tomorrow. Carriers fatiohed. Camped .

Departed Senadau at 7.00 on the way to Lake '.1.' ebora. De cended to Brese Craek, which we cross­ed, and then began to climb and descend seve~al srr.all h 1 s to arriveat the faot of t he main range · t 9.45. Then be an a ha~d short climb to the top which was reached a t 10.20. 'e.t down to wait for 1 the carriers to labour up . Set off again still up and down and arrived t our old cam,site on top of a sm 11 hill at 1.30. Rested th l walked on t o the 1 st water before the swam and erected camp . e have pic!ted u a Tebora man on the tr ck who tells me that his people have abandoned the Vil c,_, on Lake Tebora. A:. parently the lake is bone dr , and one ~an alk around on it. The mosqu'toes are so pr ~valent as to render the .:ilac e unirili'· bi 1,,able to even t lle hardiest swamp dwell r. Thus ~hey have decid~d to amalgamate with Guri. 1atu village on the urari river. ' his i c probably the best think that ever ha pened to them s I Know from expe rL:;;nce that the lake is an .xtreme y unple sant spdt. 1his will now mean tl at 1e c go stnrt~• straight to Gu 1matu which wiL cut two days fr m the dur tion of the patrol. Carriers rationed. v ped.

1 H SD AY . 26- 11 - 65

r IDAY. 27-11-65

SATUl.DAY. 28.11.65

Dep rt d c p at 7.30 and escended from the ange to a,ri e t La~e ~ebora at 9.30. ~he lake i dry except f or isolated patches of w ter in the middle . Then ea e probably the most unconfortab e three hours that I have ever spent. Started off along the side of the l ace forcing our way through tall razor ed ed swamp rass which scratches l egs and arms . Mo quitoes ro ~e in cl ouds around us ma dng the going even more unpleasant.

~ anched off acres the middle of the lake to the des erted village? knee deep in water and with mosquitoes becoming fiercer still. eached the village a t 12.30 and r es ted. al cd to the opposite side of the lake and found a reasonable track which l eads through ~ago swamps and old gardens. Followed this in a south e~sterly direction until we came to the small cre&k hich feeds into the swamp. Continued upstream witil we found a decent camp-site at 5.00p.m. Everyone quite done in after 9t hours on the road. Carriers rationed. Camped.

Some of the carriers came up this morning and complained that their powid of rice per man was not enough. Explaine~ that as they could see the rice was running short. They went away grumbling. What I did not know was that just prior to their coming to see me abou 5 men deserted t he patrol to go on ~o Gurimatu a~ they said they · were hungry. Made do with the rest who are still unhappy and left camp at 7.05. At 8.30 met the v.c. and councillor from Tebora who are on their way down t~ Gurimatu. ent on to arrive at the too of · the only range we must climb at 9.55. All up over by 10.2n. Descended to garden area and tinally arrjved Guri atu at 11.10. Set up camp and spoke with v.c. Food for ~arriers purchased. Mail from Baimuru distribu"' .. ed. sombled Uraru carriers and nsked them to state their complaints. Arter much shuffling of feet they said that they ware not g' tting enough food and that they wanted to return to Uraru. Am unable to talk them out of it and our rice is all but gone. Cannot buy much rood as the dry spell has affected thv food gardens here also. Against my wil l I am forced to go back to Uraru from here and thus miss out the village ot Weijana. There is no other way. .·Lest of th afternoon spent talking to officials from this village and from Tebare. Carriers rationed. Camped Gurimatu.

People assembled at 8.30 ll?ld inspected by the medical team. Tal ~ sent to few J:ebora people who are still in s go Kocbat!s to come down todayi General disc ssions wittj V .c. and people on village tters incl~ding the am 1 amation of Lake T~bora. Ono c •• M. case heard Rnd several petty disputes settJed. A little fresh food bought. P td off some carriers who wish to emain here . L ke bora pe.- ple all in by mid-afternoon. Medically inspected th · and then sat down for gen ~al talks. Apparently the Gurimatu people have been inviting them to move down here for J•ars. The present dry spell anJ the resultant increase in mosquito • anJ th

cont .

01 DAY. 29-11- 5

TEUSDAY. 30-11-65

ED .. - ' ~D.ilY.

1-12-65

10

drying up of t:leir <.l ri:iking water b ~ s finally per­suaded them to make the move . Spo re with village officials an dvised them to make the amal gamation permanent . Economic activity and evelopment will be possible here as there is amnle good arable land. Arranged for hire ea o ,s to a ~e us own the Purari to the f erry point first thing i n t he morning. Carriers fed . Camped Gurimatu .

Arose early and egan loading gear into hil·e CLl!loes for the "'rip to the ferry point . Two trips will be r equired as canoes are small and rather frail looking. Self way at 6.30 a.m. in first batch. The trip down ~ akes on 25 minutes as opposed to nearly 1 hours up against the current. Unloaded canoes and sent them back. S~t down to wait for the second load to arrive. Finally departed the ferry point at 8.35 for old Tatu village. Followed the Purari downstream along a track above the bank. Reached Old ratu at 10.20 and sent two car riers across b% to retch the ferry canoe. canoe returned at 10.45 and everyone over by 12.10. walked down the bank of the P~rari to Bo'o River. Followed the Bo•o all afternoon to arrive Old Kairiku village at 3.55. Fly 1 s erected. Last of the rice plus a little taro which we bought at Gurimatu issued to Police and carriers. Unsuccess­ful radio contact with Baimuru. Camped Old Ka1r1ku.

Left Old Kairiku at ?.10 and almost immediately climbed the two main ranges. Rested at the top of second one. Descended and reached Mua Creek at 9.30a.m. Walked along the bed to arrive at Purari -Mua Junction at 10.25. An easy mornings walk. Sent message for motorised canoes which arrived at 11.00. Gear loaded and continued upstr&am to Uraru. Set up camp. Limch and then carriers paid ott. Talk with Village Officials. Heanl that the man who was sentenced to term of imprisonment uuring our ir t stay here, excape~ whilst ~eing tak n down the Purari. Apparen.tly he deliberately overturned the canoe in mid stream and swam to shor~. He has not been seen since. The councillor who was eHcorting him is rather upset because, not only die' he lose his prisoner but he was nearly drovnec trying to get the canoe ashore . Some fresh food purchased and petrol mixed fo~ the trip down to the Tsubu. ~amped Ur~ru.

adio con~act with A.D.C. KUkipi at ?.00 a.m. Lett Uraru at 8.15 for weme on t he Tsubu rive r . ~alled in at Koni to a~vise the village officials to be on the look out for the escaped prisoner. Discover d hat the Uri v.c. had died since we left for the

Tabora area. · 111 not appoint replacement a Uri only a small village and they have alread7 amalg a with Koni. Went on to arrive at the moutr of th~ T ubu at 12. 15. Found that the ri V6tr was too low tor us to entor and was contemplating the situation wh n the eme v.c . turued up. He advised that his i-eople were all over the place gard uing, hunting etc,, any that it would take about t,. days to asse ble them. ~:hi is a po , r show as he was well awa of our coming. minded him of his duties and in-structed him to start no a~ ha th peopl

cont .

THURBDIY. 2-12-65

SUN AY.. 19-12-65

Mm VAY. 20-12-65

TEUSDAY. 21-12-65

-11-

He is to report to Baimuru when they are ready and I will m~e a special return t. :cip to see t hem. Continued on d r 1nriver to Pawaia No. 1 and set up camp at 3 .4o. The secon canoe pwwered ·oy Administration 11+ h.p. engine had not turne up by 6.30 so sent our large canoe back to look for it . Both canoes turne up at 10 . 50 . The smaller e 1 ... ,;ie s true { a ·oclc bed and damaged the underwater gear. Will take the hired motor down an then send it back. Camped Pawaia No . 1.

Left Pawaia ·o. 1 at 4.oo a.m. for Baim ru. Went at half speed till dawn because of heavy patches of mist. Final ly arr ived at Bai~uru at 9.30 a.m. Refuelled motor and sent it back t o pick up remainder of patrol.

Departed Eaimuru at 10.25 a .. m. for Pawa:la No. i. was making goo speed elose to Kapuna hos ital whena small canoe with 4 . youn~ boys in it shot out or the brush near the b~nk. UUe lo insufficient wt1rn~.11g our operat r vaa unable to tarn our heavy canoe and we sliced the village canoe in halt. No one hurt but t t ~oys c~noe is a write­off. "ent back and picked them up ~ d toG>k them to a small kombate where they werA living. ade arrangements to compensate the owner of the canoe on ou~ re~urn from ·e Carried on to Kapuna to drop mail off and made a further stop at Mapaio tor the smae purpose. Continued on up th~ Pu~ari pushing stong current to arrive Pawaia No. 1 at 5.50. Set up camp and talked to v.c. topped up outboard tanks and staked canoe and hired outboard securely. ~ ped Pawaia No. 1.

Loaded canoe and left Pawaia No. 1 a ~ / .~5 a.m. tor e on the Tsubu River. Purari had risen about ~ feet oY r­night. Going slow as river literally choked with 1011 and other debris. Passed abandoned village or Pav 1 No. 2 at 9.50 and arrivad at th~ mouth or the Tsubu river at 11.it-O. Negotiated two sets of swift rapids to arrive at the new village site of Weme at 12.10p.m. The Pawaia No. 2 people h ve ~ also moved here. Set up camp. M'Ull' people are absent 1n the bush hwiting etc. but will return 1 t r e;n today. Spoke with village officials. Camped W e.

People as~embled at 7.00 a.m. N.M.o. Pimiri carried out inspection and ~ave necess i ry tr~atments. Then started discussions on all aspects of village life and econoaic development. Thes peopie have planted s 11 plot o rubber d coffee upstream from ~he village and r nq wh8n an gr1cultural Officer is coming to adT1 th on further plantings etc. A vised t hem to complet th baild1~ of heir new village which is a~~ut t fin1 h d. The P 1 ~~ o. 2 people hav~ finally sett~ed h~r wl1ch is gQOd to • f{elr further tal.ks and arbitrated in several m r di pu e • let the village at 11.30 to return to Baimuru. · ent own the Purari and turned into the Baroi r1Yar at 3.00 Ex !oration Services have a c mp on the Baroi nd e h some outboarJ parts t o tel iver. rleache · t e camp at .15.

J\ et the o.I.c. Mr dams . ecide j to sta7 the night .

' C ;

cont.

12

we coul not make i t b:lCn to Baimurll before da.:k . Camped .

Departed camp at 6.50 for D imuru. Reached apuna and ~J•rtx• dropped off patient at 10 . 20 . Cont­inued or1 to ;3aimuru and arrived at 11 • 40.

rn OF A" ROL .

0, 5 - 65/66 - u.

UPPER

INTR'JD

·,he areas atrolle1 " tbP. 1-epike and Upper Purari Census Divisions which 11 · e sout h rn foothills of the Territory. This patrol as ~he first to enter the Pepike by

.way of the Opper Purari area and the Irou Valley which is a les s arduous walk than the normal route from Kikori Station -up he S1reb1 river and across t he bi·oken limestone count!9y.

Unfortunately not all the vil.lag1.> s of the two div!si ns coul d be vi ~ it ed. The Pepike v1J lages of Omo, Diawereke and Sera were not visited but are reasonably close to K.ikori and could be covered from that station in a little over a week. The Tik:arapou people were not seen as they are r ported to have joined the Juru pe~ple at lera village. The Tobare people wer not seen as they are scattered between Samia Creek and Sera and tood supplies were not su!'ficient to allow us to sit down and wait for them. Only one village in the Upper Purari area, Weijana, was not conta~ted f or reasov.s mentioned in the diary.

Extension or Administr ation influence was our pr1&1ar1 duty in tha Papike, but, as all other patrols over the past years, we were charged with the apprehension or the K.okong raiders, - Borowetari, J!arit ri, ~and Betie. Fortunatel7 the first tnree mentionod were apprehend&d; the fourth man Betie having died from natura~ cause9, T~ s means that tailin , further outbreaks of violence in t he area, uture patrols may enter openly witlout causing the people to fl ee into the bush.

The Purari River section or the pa ~ 1 passed without incident. The only misshap occured when our Scott motor struck an widerwater ro~k bank an we h. ·· t o rely on our hired lto hors£ power Johnson motor tor the rest of the trip.

DISTRICT tOMI IS1' ATION.

For the sake of simpli ..:ity, I will pvsualhis section under sub-titles. T' 1) The Nosonu Peogle ~ Pepike Ar•i•

The Nosonu people or Tikara»ou and Tetre are Til hav undergone considerable chan~ince Mr. P. 0. Bo 46 c nded upon them out or the blue in ebruary 1965. (See P trol eport No. 7 ot 61+/65 - Kik~ri) These are the tvo villag re pon­sibl tor t he raid on Knkong village i n cto ber, 19614- wh n all but one woman were cut down in a dawn attack.

Mr. Bond arrested t wo of the sus ec s of Tikarapou and sixteen of t hem at Tetrebare. This left Tetrebare with pract­icall y no adult males in the village.

Ii J~o 1965, short patrol by mysel f and Mr. c. P.O. Luscombe,, again entered the area in an attempt to arre t th

cont .

suspects w.1.10 had eluded r. Bond . On arrival we found t hat t he vill ge of Tetre uare had been ~ompl etely abandoned . The remaini ng men had taken al l t he women and spread t hem­s elves between Urupi o and Saketau villages where t hey are s till livin today . On t he fac e of it thi s s eems a harm­less enough a r ran[ement - However , am qui t e sure t ha t the 'l'etr ebare women wiJ 1 q i ckly tire of not having "a man around t he hous e" and some o'f t hem may even marry Urupio or Saketau men. This could prove di s astrous when thair hus bands return, but it is a situation about which nothing much can be done .

As previously stated the Tikarapou eoples have moved down to live with the Juru people of Seral• or at least that i~ the mess age we were given. I th nk Mr. Bond's arrest of several of the ir number, t he ringleader of the Kokong raiders movin to their village ~Uld finally my descent upon their area in J~ e, 1965 has apset them 3ome­wha~. To cap the whole thing off the vil a e constable and several other people died not long t fter. I do not know whether the amalg~ation vith Sera v!llage will be permanent. I rather susp,~t not as these people will leave thei~ village and go wandering at the drop or a hat . Apart from malting Administration r ather d!ffic1lt they are denying th mselve6 a chance t~ settle down and make good.

2) Urupio Murder .

hilst the patrol was camped a t Koaru village the Village Constables of Urup1o and Sak~tau presented themselve,. They wer on their way to report the murder of a young Bare woman from Urupio by 3 men from Bero village in the Pupitau area. The matter was investigated at Urupio and the body or a young woman was seen on a bur(l..l platform.

It appeared t hat the three ro men were wan ering far from t heir own arla and met the woman on the road and axed her down. There did not seem to e an7 ra son for thi a part from the fact that she was another villager. The sole witness to the killing stood by and ratched her killed, without raising a hand in her · efense . He was seen by the thre€ killers but was not hanned.

Radio contact was made with erem~ to advise them that I would go up tu . o and arrest thes e respo ible, but as it tui:-ned out this was not n ces .; ary. Whei1 •• arrived at Saket:.u, the nearest village to o, I was informed that the 11111rd rers had iven themsolve u to ons or the Saketau c en ors and lfa een en down o Kikori. A Police Patrol was ent to o t o verify this and r &dio contact was made i th Kiko.L·i Lo ask them to hold the sus ects when they arrived. They are iov waiting trial at Kiko~!.

This mur ler was rather ill timed. The area was just s showing signs of settling down after t he arr est of the Kokon kil iers and thi s has t o happen . The r~ i o 's needless t o say are rath~ u s et an'l vhere was some loese

talk about paybacks which I was qu~ck t o squas! • It was pointed out tha t the offende1·s w r e in cus t ody an ould shortl y re eive the attent ion of the Supreme Court. The area was quite calm when we lr ~ l d fa111ne further out-breaks of t his sort of think 1t see why i t shoul no t r emain so.

3) The

co t .

t at t · s atr l o.S o a r · end __ y na .. re to con olidate Admi i s tration infl en e . atura ly enough my i nst uctions covered the ap) ·ehension of the r em ining suspects sho1J_d the opportunity present itself . Fo ·tunately the opportunity presenuiitself. Fortunately the opportunity did present itself.

At ~o - ru we recei ved new3 th3t Borowatari ~ e ringleader was living in a sago camp several hours walk to the north. An ex edi t ion was organised an l next morni g a t dmm we set off. No f -::>ou was taken as we were assured t hat ,.,e would be back in camp by midday . To cut a l ong story short the forwar1 journey took ? hours an · when the sago patch was sur rounded Borowatari es ~aped due ~ o some of the guide• blundering in too early-. The -c rip back to Koaru took 8t hours which made 15t hours for the rount trip without food or wa er.

A similiar xpedition to Urupio fortunately had $ore success an~ had no trouble in arresting the suspects Haritari and Kato. A day later at Urupio we heard news that Borowatari had followed our tracks down to Koaru 1 doubtless to "see us off the premises". A fast travelling patrol was sent back and was lucky enough to grat him. Inquiries revealed that the suspect Batie had died from natural causes. 1his was checked from ·everal inde endent sources and would appear cmrrect.

Borowatari, Haritari and Kato are now in custo~y at Kikori waiting trial. ~ 'he arrest or these chree men has now closed the ca3e which must have left a bad ~~ste bot~ in the mouths of the people whose 1.ihole way of life has been disrupted and changed and the Officer s who have been forced to hound them up hill and down dale in search of the guilty one~s. a1

l+) Irog Vallex .

feature o any patrol into the Papike seems ~ to oe that you never know whom you will find where.

The sago camps of the Tobare people called Lalabatau and Paria were found to be deserted, as was Tobare Village. ~~ese people are somewhere bAtwee1 ~am1a Creek and ~era Village. I think they must be closer to Sera as we passed up Samia Creei~ and saw no one. ~he patrol then p ssed on to Toaru Village which was also round to be deserted. Here we canped and finally the oaru and H~ubrere were seen; only after runners had been sent out to contact them.

These H~lauin are extremely friendly and assi ted the Patrol in every way possible. All tracks in the Area wer cleared and bridges mli placed across difficult places which makes walking in the Irou Valley -he easiest or the whole Patrol. Food was ptentitul and the supply exc ·· eded the d m d despi t e our large carrier line.

/

5) This pat r ol carried out the initial censu~ of enal aU

vi lage which is 2 days w 1 orth .est o L\{e Tebora. Tlese people have a s0 shift.d their vi1lage sever miles because of several eaths at t he old aite . As far a I can gather about 5 people died probably from dysen vry. he census showed a tota populat ion of 2 , bei~ m de up from 15 male c il rcn, 1 fema e child , 7 male adults and 5 female adults.

The man w o accompanied my 1 -t; Upper urari patrol bac to Baimuru, Sugabeli - Fatape was provisionally appoint­ed vil l age constab e much to his deligh~. The papers for his appointment have lready been r orwarded W1 er separate cover. His first duty is to commence buildin a new village to replace the ombati type settlement in which they were living.

At 1 st the Lake Tabora people have moved from what must be one of the most unpleasant place,that I have had the misfortune to visit. The recent Territory wide dry spell 9as responsible for the move. The mosquito populatation tripled and their fresh drinking water dried up; in short the lake became uninhabitable.

The people moved down to a sago Kombati and at last accepted a long standing invitation from the Gurimatu people to settle in their villa ·e. The t wo villages have close atf inal ties and the old trade route of th9 Tebaras• leads through Gurimatu.

There is ample arrable land at Gurimatu a increased population they should have ample sco··· individual or community economic projects; p~oviu that they are given right guidance by the right d and not just D.D.A.

the

_ .. course ~ ents

Elsewhert\..on the Pur ari river things remain as usual, calm and llntro\Jled. After a years dickerin the P~waia o. 2 people have i'in~lly settled down at eme on the Tsubu River . eme has ~hanged to yet another site further down the Tsubu toward the urari. This site will be a permanent one and Ghey are in the process of erecting a neat and orderly v Ila ge.

HSONALITIES.

The Upper Purari and ~epike village constab e , appear to be the est men avail b.e for the obs.

Only changes occ 1.lrred both in the Upper Purari Census Di vis ion. Village Cons tabl t~ NAI I-0 1 E of on! village re­signed his position to enable him to takeup tull time crocodile shooting. A replacement was p~ovisionally appoint d and his papers have already been forward d through the regulars chann ls. Villa q Co_ stable OVE-P I of Uri village died whilst the patrol was in the Pepike area. I did not appoint a re lacement as Uei has amal ated with Koni village and only has a po~1ulation or 42.

During our stay in the villa es various influential pro Ad.ministratiqn individuals were noticed. Some of them are village consTables and some a~e not. A short note on each is inc~uded and this information m .y prove of value to fut~re patrol ling officers.

. '

u

)

Is He

rip . id ,in .

L.o o __ -=t.nise co

3.f.e .

ged 31. ccon 3nied my 1 st u ·ari p3trol a . to ~mu u . dpent 6 we ks at b imuru wher h0 1qs shown aroun , an h _ ec 1..urcs on 1ygiene an _a ·J 1.nrJ C'rder 1· an d for him . s ap· ointe · • • thl~ trip . ~hough r t! 01

quiet he ap ears a Lu · 1 len er . H ~ sm .L er · n of motu •

4) Ceuncillor

ed • revio~sly som time on thi ~ s ~tion after he w s p o"nted o ci or . Is ~ eco su port for the V .c. who still uncert in of i s e f but improvin. • .1ariabe is a traditio 1 le der of the "ebor ' s and is w 11 respected by them . Understands a littl e ·otu .

Co . , for Served 2 an Aurei to this

ed 38 . 'orked for t he Australasian Petroleum 3 years s Labo1re~ . Can speak f~uent .otu. years imprisorunent aL · 1 - ~ ri ir 196~ :t"or killing man. Very forceful personality and 01 great help atrol .

2) Village Constg le Fari- Soro e of Haubrere .

Agad 30 . ~ s appoi i te~ ~ . c . e r y 1965 . Is actively dj scouragine hi s people fr m le:t j 11g a nor.mdic existence

nd 1 e couraglng h r.l t sett e down nd make gar ens etc . Does not unc e1·st nd o \.. but is an efficient n r spected official . It is a it·1 mo-re the epike o fici J.s do no fo1Jow is e run e .

~ > Villqg~ Con~table rupio .

1.., appoint~d early in 1965 . Las ~erved ter1 of i m r isonment at Bom:in for .a. murder . Speak . flu nt otu. ·as built a su eri o1· type 01 dubu at Urupio and is 1,, e o ly one who has ~llocated .nd cle r·ed a site for a rest-h use . ust e handled fi ly as he has .uite definite !d as of his own on the du ies of ~ v.c. sone of which fail to coincide witb s et. instructions . Assi sted witt the •nxt a1·1·P.s t of o ong r iders Harti tari and K to .

The abo e all .. t emely hel fu~ to t Lis atrol; ar1·an"ir .. car riers , fO 'Jd ~n ul <. ~ etc . an ciuld ell le l:ept in mind y future pat~~ s .

. .. - . " .

wer, two mi sio ~ e r e t i g n tie • l t..he fJ et' ur ri A·d' •

e fir t is th apuc: ~elesi ( form~rly L • . • ".)' a ~r Je t at-on at u~aru, ·ust below ~atta

e s 't ' o is in charge of a Samoan as tor, who, ·· cond t i ne in , waa absent 0 1 leav e during

' il ii 0 5 include il j as or 1 S house, a Ch\..Lr~h/ school 7 a aid post , e dical .1 rcterly' s house and ~ art ally com eted re~idence fo a Euro~ an laywoman shortly t o Pke

duty .

The Samoan p stor takes care of t e el \ io and ed11cational si e of the mission. Daily cllurc services, b ptismal tratning, recor~ed bi le stor•es in M0tu are vailable for those inter ~d. Ur.fol tunatel:r r \ias U!le.lJl

to collect any stat1itics the school.

upply trips f rom Kapuna hospital are qu"'te regular and Dr. C lvart nd the Reverend Cribb pay visits to the area when they h· ; the time.

The ot er stat ion was main ained at Koni llage by the Seventh Day Adventists Mi ai ,...:n. It was in char&e of Papuan pastor/tsacher who~ we passed in a canoe on our way up the river. He told us that he had spent too long in the one area and was on his way to Kikori to resign and ar~ ge ~or somgone to tait his place. Personally, I would be rath~r surprised if thi~ reliet' even gets to Koni.

my ' ledge no . • D.A. ff.icials have ever V-..iit d the station at Kon!, pr0bably because of inadequa~ ~ater tr&.n· rt. Suppli are non-existent and thus the pasto is fore d to rely so ely on the generosity of the villa ra or his house and food etc., which cannot be good I'or orale.

This mission, when in operation, was not a large on and offered religious instruction and a school.

There are no mission groupSoperating in the epi e A.tea.

in previcus years, thi~ pa~rol had the use ot a ired l+o h.p. outboard mot~r. The s~cond canoe jas ow~red by an Administr tion Scott Ox 1~ h.~. motor which

had extreme difficulty in making t e distance. It finally came tu grief when the und rwater gear stuc~ a hidden rock bank on the tinal stage of the retuni trip.

The hired motor performed well at all times and nu bfe · dowus wer experienced.

Th patrol took delivery ~.: a port11ble A510 wile· less station several days before departure. I was instructed in the us~ of the set by amateur radio ham and w s given aerLal specifi ations for the various frequency ranges.

In ~ e first stages of the patrol I used the area lengths a~ recommJnde l on the spools which came wit t he set~ For the first ~ days I was greeted with s~ny silence every

t ime I call ed .

At Uraru village I changed to t e l eagth gi ven me t al~uru and w_s literally swamped with cont ts t o my

first call . Thereafter I had no t r oubl cont act ing Kerem , I hu, Kainte a &rul Kukipi . The only s t ation I wa s unable t o raise was Kikori .

The las t two off i cers to pat rol the Pepike and Upper Pura r i also ad A510' s with them b t met with little succe~s in their operation. I cannot help thinking that it may be ue to the incorrect areal spe~ifications supplied with the set; they wou.1.d certainly seem to he incorrect anyway. The matt e may be wort hy of inve~tigation.

i\3RIGULTURE.

The Department of Agriculture has still not visit 1ther the Pepike or the Upper Purari. This is a state ot

affairs on which I was repeateAly questioned in the Purari Villages. Se veral people have ob ~1ned coffee and rub r

edli gs from lterema which they have planted according to nstructions eceived when they collected the plan . • Ther

are o ookin ro~ an officer to come and advise them turther.

The Ura?U. ar~d Kon1 people are also talking or clearing for cotf ee and ru ber but they will need guidance on !:i pac.in and · hade etc. If they are permitted to p hafia dly the ad'l tage is lost.

During the patrol a . surveY o~ econ 1c trees was carried out and ~he in~o tion is set out low:-

nas approx. 200 mature conuts. hea are in an ar o' .. the vil age area . Nut o:> ar uch smaller than on coasts.! t r s and probably ould not m e good copra. These people are al s interested in t he planting or rice and peanuts.

T_ se two vi~ l g s occ u y the same ite. Thy have 98 rubber trees which are no~ ~ bout 6 mo ths ol and 100 cof ee trees al so 6 months old.

Thes e are th onl y villages l h cash o;op in the upper Purari a ea and t e e are no cash r:>ps in e Pepike.

The staple diet or both reas is gc . Supplement~r vegetables i nclude taro, s eat potato, bana1 s, pumpkins, sug r cane and cucumber.

Game is at1 of makes birds and high pr esti e ·value a di et of these people. villag •

r scarce in the areas m 11 n · t i ssul\ are hunted an eaten . Pigs h ve consequently com. ibu '.e itt e t the Fowls were only seen in the Lo~er Pu~ar

ECO OMIC E'fELOPEM&lfT AND TEJ'f'l' IAL.

Th econ 1c advancement or the t)pper Purari and Pepike will not be a rapi d affair. Cash cropping is almost non existent (sei grlcult re) an even when m re crops are planted it wi ll be se .. ral years before th~ benefits are reaped; pr ovidin t h r e is a steady market and transport ... available at the t I e.

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There is perl aps n i mi ed potent · 1 in bot a e s f or the t i ber 1 ustry. on tie O per ba~s of the Purari the r e a e lar e st n s of millable ti be· which appe r t o stretch far inland. The main spec;as noticed ar~ calliid oiabo , 0 ari , ~epere an Ilimolin the motu 1 n -uage . Lo ~ing i n t e initial stages wo Ql not p esent any reat problem du to the pr oximity of the river to the stands.

Furthe north and in t 1e e. i ke , ogg~ ng would prove 1m ss · bl / thout tl use of a caterpillar r ctor. In these areas the timber grows mainly on the s : d .. !> of hills and mountains which comprise the terrain. Iiowever 7 it woul not be im oss le and there is 0 reat sc~pe wi~h

m one with su i c nt cap'i . and interest t ··, commence operation • Ul Li!J1a t ely 7 a .Local Gov rnment Council may provide the initial l. e'tu to get these ·reas going.

In the.\Jtit men from the low r ur ri villages of Pawaia No. a and No . 2 used to flo ·t logs to Gulf Traders sawmill at Mariki village ou the coast. They could time their arrival at the tidal stretch of the Pura-.'i so that they could make the haul on one tide er at the most two. This mill has since left Mariki and is situated on the

r iver, th~s they have lost their only market tor the timber due to the extra exceasive distance to be travelled.

There are sev ~ l patches of coal in the Purari anl one i n the pike. '1ose on the Purari are worthy ot so 11e comment as they co p .. ~ •)Ve to have interesting possibili1~ies _.

UnfortW1 ly a normal patrol into the Purari has insufficient ti e to examine or investigate all th e d -posit. On cust consider rood and a hot or other thin~ mainly conn "'tet\ with the walking section or th13 patrol above Ura ·u village. The coal is well scattered and would t · about 2 tull weeks for a comprehensive survey to be co du· ted. Most or the known coal is small dep~~ts fou.. in creek beds and which has obviously been w ~ed away fro t e main face. I asked innum•rable cpestiona but tor th xce tion of one the locals themselves do not ven knoi.r

these :!'aces are located.

The one exception is Ju•u Creek which runs into the ura. 1 about 3 miles upstream from Koni village. Here tue

creeks have uncovered r c of coal which is approximately 10 feet high and extend hack some 50 or 6o yards. The only facts ~hich maY Prevent the exploitation is its innaccessi lit7 an ck of a stead7 market. Ju•u Creak i beyond the navigable limits of the Purari for all vesa • except for otorised canoes1 ~ At this stage the river is f o ing at about 4 or 5 kno~s and veral set o shallows and rapids must be negotiated before r<~ ching the area.

Soil typ s wer examined in most vill geJ...nd so e campsites thereby obtaining an average cross ~e~ion or soil types. Topaoils ranged from 121 to 30" and were composed by a ua k friable loam on the river and decomposed vegetable matter in the b\l h areas. Topsails were almost non-existent in some of the villages perched on hilltops but were better just belo~ tJiese v1i 1 ges. From my small knowledge ot agriculture voul y that lowland coffee cocoa and rubber could not help b~t thrive in the Peplke and Upper Purari area. The rubber and corree already under cultiv tion on the Lower Pur ri bears this out. However patrol ~ an experienced ricul.tural O ~ ticer would be able to ~a

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the s ituation and u ~ fo r w rd some conc r et e propos · ls for ,he dv ,nc rnent of sh cr op ing .

r o odi c arc numerous in the Purari river and its t ribut ies . The recent dry spell h' , dried up some of t .b.e inland lagoons and swamps r ... sul ting in increased hau s of s ins . The eo le of the Pawaian, oni , w~me an Uraru villages are becoming interested in this re atively quick means of m~king not inconsiderable amoun s of money. There ar e no Buropean shooters at present in the a:.·· .)a nor have ther e been for the l ast 3 years. Crocodiles do not exist above atta Gorge, at Lake Tebora or in the Pepike Area.

From information collected I have calculated the per capita income for t he two divisions. The figures are set out below:-

Upper Purari

Indentured Labour including contracts and working for Admi1. Patrols etc.

Sale of garden produce.

Sale or vroc. skins

~otal cash income

£700

£4o

£350

£1090

Pepike.

£300

£15

£315

The tot al population of tie Upper Purari is 865. This shows per capi ta income figures or approx1matel7 £1-5-2. The Pepike area has a population of 649 which gives a per capita income of approximately 9/9.

The figures for the Upper Purari a1a reasonablr accurate, being obtained from the Australasian Petroleum Co., and other private :firms in tais area. They are not however, evenly realist!~ as they apply more the the vill? ges on t~ Purari river elow Hatta Gorge.

The ~epike :r1gures are estimates only and are indicative of the areas as e Hhole. .ls can be seen from both set or figures the bulk Qa j_ the income is derived from these. or labour l which as f'ar as I can see wlll con tinue to provide most or the income ror some time yet.

In an effort to ascertain the amount of' idle cash all bank books were exrunined and certain inform tion recorded. There are no bank accounts held in the Pep1~e and details or those held are recorded, below. All are c.s.B. accowits.

~ Jl PUJ' u.V...

As count No. Branch• liim!·

Moresb7 Para-Oke " Ope-Haiai " Mura-Kokea " Miri-Sai " Taiwaea " Debeae " Pala1-Er1

7 accoun~ totalling

!ill age.

Pawaia No. 1. " . " Koni .. " Weme

• £10. 2. 7.

11.11. 9.10. o. o. 1. 3. B. lf.. 6.

18. 4.11.

g.1,. ~· t5 .1 • •

D te or l ast

~i;3 12/J/63 17/lf./63 13/6/53 7/11/60 5/7/63 16/9/6o

. . ' . . . - . - . .. --........ ~ .. ·. . .

TIO I .

'I'he two schools op .. ratln in the Upper urari ha already been mentioned in the secti•n on missions. There are no schools in the Pepike .

I n the wo census divisions there · ere only 3 adult people who professe t o have any education what­soever. Th~were 3 m n from Pawaia No. 1 who claimed to ha :e passed Stand~rd 1. THis seemed rather suspicious when they all vowed .r1 ~t r'.eclared ,hat th -Y were not a~le to read or write on«~ word of English, motu or the vernacular. However it uas fo nd that quite a few people in both areas ~£re able to speak ~otu and in some c ~ses pidgin. The Lingua franca•s were lear nt whilst out of the area working and in several cases whilst serving terms of impri,oll!J!2nts. A tally for each individual villages is shown below:-

Pawaia No. 1. Weme-Pawaia No. 2. Koni-Uri t U:r.aru Gurimatu-Lake Tebora 89nadau

TOTALS.

PEPIKE CENSUS DIVISION.

Trabedesari To bare Koaru Haub re re Urupio Saket

TOTALS

....QIY. PIEGiij. .if GLISH.

e 23 9 g9

87

5

1 2

8

1 1 Q 3

7

-

0

1

1

0

A survey of those professing any techn1c 1 skill or ~ledge was also nducted. The Purari people have had much contact with A.P.c. over the years and have therefore many well trained artisans in their ~idst. The Papike is not so fortunate and can only boast a few plant­ation labourers. Below are the details.

QPPER PQR4RI Boa£screw. Painter§. Do;e1tigg.

Oy~~!~~ <5:eer1 ... 2r§ • ti1ghanis; I •

Pawa:ia No.1 eme-Pawai 2.

Koni-Uri Uraru Gurimatu-Lnk

Tebora Senadau

TOTAL

"1.tstrips.

~ a 3 1 1

3 1 2 2 2 2

1 7 3 8

There is an airstri under constuction in the Uyper Purar1 area; but I v,s unable to

1

1

find any other po~sib e sites eithor in the urari or t he Pepike . The topo raphy just does not Pllow it.

The one under construction i s beln~ buil t bf the miss ion at Ura~u village. At pr esent some 4 50 yards have been com) leted . The fi rs.t 150 yar s is well gr ase ed and quite firm . It i J cut regul ar ly w' th a moto.:-mov0r and is w 11 drained. The remai .. de r or the s t rip has only is0lo.ted oatches of r as s and is still very soft as it has only recently been cut . The strip is 45 yards wide and the first 4o yards of the len h has hu e dra in Jon either side .

As one can see there is ctill a r cat amount of work to be donetbefore the strip i.s anywhere near read.y. When operational i mu.y prov~de an outlet for c sh crops and will undoubtedly gr atly ~ ase the problem of supply in this area .

AID OSTS .

The patrol was accompanied by rative Medical Orderly Pemiri and Hospital Assistant Duwang. Due to misunderstandings reg rdine transport they were only ab~e to bring a limited amount of medical su·aplies which was unfortunate. Throughout the patrol they medically exam­ined every man woman an child we came across and rendered treatments where necersary.

Health s tandards have improved considerably in the ldst 8 months as the tre tment fi ures show. l •• o. Perml~i who accompanie Mr. Bond 's patrol reported that the incidence of yaws was down by as much as 85% No serious diseases or epidemics were encountered.

I

There is only one Aid Post An the two division~ and that is at Uraru on the Up, er Purari river . It is opera ... ed by he Papua Ekelesia and is under the control ot a Papuan Orcerly. Snpplies are brought upriver regult iy by outboar canoe and Dr. Calvert makes supervising visits. Since my rf turn I have discussed medical facilities tn ~he area w.th D~ . Calv~rt . He has said that if the Lake Tebora peo e remain at Gurimatu he will seriously consider 0stahlishing ~ new aid post there. This would mean that oth t he Upper and Lowe- Purari would be adequately covered

" 1• i he 1 th standards, al though quf e good , could reasonabl - exp cted to show considerabl ''3 impr vement. A rapid

' ~ r: "' 0 . n infant mort li ty a~ d t} i n prOVt;fQent Of sanit­fac:lli ties would also doubtless follow.

This wil mean that the Pepike wi 1 be tte onlr are~ without medical services of any kind .

Should the Ad.ministration consider the estab-1.ishmer· f Hr1 Ai Post i this di vision I would recomt!!end Uru 10 -_-a e as t he site . The vi u r constable and his people ~ _ very pro-Ad .i nist ation ri I wou1< ex ect a 1igh dee;ree 1 J.· co- opf'rc:.:.tion rom t ie 1 . ..S i ' e t h ..., UI 1 pio is reaso a 1. cent1· :-::i. , t L figures i n the next r ._.. rarh wi 1

s 1ow .

I

Vi _

1) 2)

~~

I opu c..:. tioi (" I-~ •

COVCI' L by t hieo '?)Of .

• 3. E "'ir. to . rt _in ~ 1 0 .... . .. .. tl tl " " G II It 3i~ " " II ,,

7 II II 54 . :tl.O.u ,, II u II 8 " ,,

~11- . rio ,i;_"l_ om at i n s ,v 'cl by l-' ::;t . '771' ...)

.., c , n 1 o .;; 1 · o 2 t ' ve vi · ,e i a days v .. k ro Uru .. · L , '"' ' l 1c 1 J (H"1 1 ,.... ··ho it fron this ost ~ ov r 50% of th C n~ .

~

c l ,_ ~ • .,.., i: ti . i 1 - 1. ' 1 · .l..o r ) " J • 0

U re. Purr ri in the onn y ..

P i1ike tha tlH-~ h "' V bn n at olled t ice

~<--~~4$ Ass .stant District Officer .

of atrol.

o , 5045 Co stable 1/C

o co trol over is men . Is lost in the bush.

o . 8743 Co stable P u. Very quiet and hard working.

commended fo1 .c.o. cours ' • Ila'"' ·een re-

N _, 1031 ( Con iable Kingston.

Hq_.,_ 1C526 Constable Bu6le r 4.~.\_A.

Ac uitted himself welJ. on this hi first big patrol.

l~O, 10532 C 1 stable Fa ) 0

Usually rat) er surly ut wo k a rea ly ~11 this time.

Jo , 1239 Const ~le PiUJ.

~uld appear ore ~uited to town du~ies but neve ,. the e . s tried hard ,

ro , 10202 Constable Jaima.

Excellent all roWld cor£Stable. or promotion •

.li9 J.Q.360. C_o stable Dip i q.

Is worthy

loisy , lazy and totally ineffective.

~#_,..,_,_,: (J. MUNDELL)

~

~~ -ent pistrict Officer.

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a ARI

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