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Theenormousturnipfreecolouringsheets.

Thewomencravethedeadlyliquornolessardentlythanthemen,butaresocloselywatchedbytheirlordsandmastersthattheyhavefewopportunitiesofindulgingthetaste."AmongtheKalmuks,asamongmostOrientalpeoples,[Pg82]thestrongersexlookswithcontemptuponallhouseholdmatters,abandoningthementirelytothewomen;whoworkandtakechargeofthechildren,keepthetentsinorder,makeupthegarmentsandfursofthefamily,andattendtothecattle."Ihadneverheardit,"sheexclaimed,withaconvincingaccentofsincerity;"but,poetornot,Ilikeyou,andhavehopeforyou.""Go,"sheadded;"dinnerisserved.ShesawthebroadfloodoftheGanges,and,fillingaglasswithitssacredwater,dranktothehealthoftheEuropeansandallwhomsheloved.Hefellpassionatelyinlovewithher,andthoughshewasbutfifteenyearsofage,andhadnofortune,herestednotuntilhisfamilygavetheirconsenttohismarriage.Inthecomparativelylimitedcircletowhichforseveralyearsshewasconfined,andunderconditionsofdomesticlifewhichwereunfavourabletothehappydevelopmentofhergenius,shewouldhavefounditverydifficulttoindulgeherliterarytendencies,iftheCountessSonnethjelm,aNorwegianlady,hadnotcometoherassistancebyprovidingherwithanasylumunderherroof.Buttheheatprovinginsupportable,theyweredrivenoncemoretoessaytherivertransit.AllherpreparationswerecompleteforavoyagetoAustralia,whenareturnofherdisease,inFebruary,1858,compelledhertogiveuptheideaandtodirectherstepshomeward.[Pg269]InthemonthofJuneshereachedLondon.Fromourwindowsandbalconieswhichfacethewest,wecanoverlookalmostthewholeofthisextensivevalley,andbeyondadepressioninitsringofmountains,weseethewhite-greymarbletympanumofParos,withitstwosistercupolas,surroundedbythatclearbluevapourwhichmakesitapparentthatthesealiesbetweenthemandourisland.Inthehollows,wheredampanddarknessforeverreign,climbedabluish-greymoss,amelancholyandincompletemanifestationoflifeinthebosomofthisdeath-likesolitude.Thereasonsgiveninreplymusthavebeen,wesuppose,ofashockingcharacter,sinceshecutthemshortbyadeclarationthatshedidnotwishtohearsuchthingsspokenof.Onherrecovery,inherburningimpatiencetoescapefromtheparentalroof,shedeclaredshewouldacceptthefirstpersonwhosoughtherhand,providedhewasamanofacertainage;bythisprovisowishingherlovertounderstandthathermarriagewaswhollyduetoconstraint.YoumustrequiresuchausertoreturnordestroyallcopiesoftheworkspossessedinaphysicalmediumanddiscontinuealluseofandallaccesstoothercopiesofProjectGutenberg-tmworks."Hundredsoftheseburrowsareplacedtogether.Shemountedherfavouritehorse,whichshehadtakenwithhertoPekin,andithadbeenhercompanioninallherexcursionsinthecityandthesurroundingcountry.AtthefootoftheGrindelwaldhill,IstoppedatPierreBohren'schâlettopayavisittohiswife,whoheldinherarmsaninfantonlyafewdaysold.HadIknownwhatmadeitpurpleIshouldcertainlyhavegonenofarther.Asahead-dressitisremarkablyeffective;anditisonlyjusttosaythatitfrequentlysetsoffreallyhandsomefaces,withfinefeaturesandglowingeyes.Assheapproachedthisgreatseatofcommerce,shewasmuchmovedbythelivelinessofthescene."AtdaybreakoureyeswereturnedeagerlytowardstheVolga,thatflashedinthegloriesofthemorningsky.Notthattheservantswerepermittedtoremainidleduringdaylight.Astrangeandyetsublimemedley,whichitismucheasiertostigmatizeaslunaticthantoanalyzeandcomprehend.Atfirstwetraversedaspacioussquarecourt,pavedwithwhitemarble,plantedwithyewsandcypresses,cutintoshapesasatVersailles,and[Pg283]peopledwithaninfinitenumberofstatues;thenweclimbedasuperbmarblestaircaseofthirtysteps,whichledtoanothersquarecourt,plantedinthesamestyle,andshutinontherightandleftbyathickforestofhugecedars,whichconcealseighttempleswithcircularcupolas,crownedandornamentedbythegrimacinggodsoftheChineseTrinity,withtheirsixarmsandsixheads.However,necessityprevailedoverherhumanitarianscruples."WhenIannouncedmyprojectofscalingthehighestsummitsoftheAlps,theastonishmentwasgeneral.Bystronglystimulatingperspirationitservesasanexcellentpreservativeagainsttheeffectofsuddenchills.Alexinarequestedhimtosellhersomecornandoxen;hereplied,inwhatseemedthespiritofatruegentleman,thatfortwenty-fourhourshewasher[Pg211]host,thatconsequentlyhehadabdicatedhispositionasatrader,andcouldthinkofnothingbutgivingheranhonourablereception.Therampartsarebuiltofbrickworkandash-tarcementedwithlime;measuretwentyfeetinheight,andtwenty-fivetothirtyfeetinthickness;butdonotatallpointspreservethissolidity.AloneinthisprofundityofgloomitisdifficultforthetravellertoresistthesenseandfeelingofasupernaturalPresence,andhecomestounderstandinwhatwaysucheerielegendsandgrimtraditionshavegrownupabouttheforest,andwhytotheearlyracesitsstilldepthsseemedhauntedbythecreaturesofanotherworld.TocarryoutthisplanshewouldhavetocrossthecountryoftheTowaregs,thetreacherous"piratesoftheDesert,"thecruellestandfalsest,andatthesametimethebravestandhandsomest,oftheAfricantribes;andsheprovidedherself,therefore,withastrongescort,consistingofthreeEuropeansandforty-sevenArabs,wellarmed.Shetellsananecdotetothefollowingeffect:—ANewYorktailorsold,onaSunday,someclothestoasailorwhoseshipwasonthepointofsailing.Whobutmustadmireherwonderfulphysicalcapabilities?Herliteraryactivity,meanwhile,knewnostint.Herintellectwastoostrongforherimagination.YOUAGREETHATYOUHAVENOREMEDIESFORNEGLIGENCE,STRICTLIABILITY,BREACHOFWARRANTYORBREACHOFCONTRACTEXCEPTTHOSEPROVIDEDINPARAGRAPHF3.Travel-booksbyladieswererareatthetimethatLadyEastlake(thenMissRigby)wrote,andthesuccessofherworkwasinfluenced,nodoubt,bythisrarity;butitsreputationmaywellrestuponitsgenuinemerit.Donotexpectthatshewillrelatetoyou(asLadyMorgandoes)thetittle-tattleoftheboudoirsofthecountriesshevisitsorinwhichsheresides;forfromtheparticularityandrangeofherobservationsitisclearthatshemadenoflyingvisit,thathermasculinemindpenetratedbelowthesurface.Shethenresumedherseat—notafterthefashionoftheOrientals—butallowingherfeettorestonthefloororfootstool,andcoveringherlapwithamassofloosewhitedrapery.[22][Pg320]Thewomanbeforehimhadexactlythepersonofaprophetess;not,indeed,ofthedivineSibyl,imaginedbyDammichino,butofagood,business-like,practicalprophetess,longusedtotheexerciseofhersacredcalling.Intheproductionofthisworkthemostoppositepowersofnaturehavebeenlaidundercontribution.TheFoundationiscommittedtocomplyingwiththelawsregulatingcharitiesandcharitabledonationsinall50statesoftheUnitedStates.PEKIN.Asareward,Ihadthesatisfactionofperceivingthatmytalentwasgenerallyappreciated,andofobtainingherMajesty'sthanks.Shewasoftoostrongamind,oftooclearanintellect,tovaluetheephemeralinfluenceenjoyedbywealthorbeauty;shewantedtoreign,torule,togovern,andasthatwasnolongerapossibilityinthepoliticalworld,sheresolveduponseekingsomenewspherewhereshewouldalwaysbefirst.IntheneighbourhoodofatowncalledSidin,MadamePfeiffermetwithacuriousadventure.Notonlyasaperseveringandenlightenedtraveller,butasapoet,MadameHommairedeHellhasgaineddistinction.Cingalese,Kanditores,TamilsfromSouthIndia,andMoormans,withcrimsoncaftansandshavencrowns,formthebulkofthecrowdthatthrongitsstreets;but,besidesthese,therearePortuguese,Chinese,Jews,Arabs,Parsees,Malays,Dutchmen,English,withhalf-casteburghers,andnowandthenaveiledArabwoman,oraVeddah,oneoftheaboriginalinhabitantsoftheisland.FromGreeceshewentintoItaly,in1861,andtookupherresidence,whereshehaseversinceremained,atFlorence.Hereceivedhisvisitorsveryhospitably,andaftertheusualcourtesiesproceededtomakehistoilette.MadamedeHellandherhusbandspentthewinterof1841atOdessa.Hercarriageisorderedateleven;tillthathoursheisemployedinthepastry-room,hersnow-whiteapronprotectinghermouse-colouredsilk.IfanindividualworkisinthepublicdomainintheUnitedStatesandyouarelocatedintheUnitedStates,wedonotclaimarighttopreventyoufromcopying,distributing,performing,displayingorcreatingderivativeworksbasedontheworkaslongasallreferencestoProjectGutenbergareremoved.AtnightfallwhenMajorWarburton'sescorthadlightedtheirwatch-fires,theluridgleamfellstrangelyuponmassesofhoneysuckleandwoodbine;onthewhite,moulderingwallsbeneath,andthedark,wavingtreesabove;whilethequaintpictureseemedappropriatelyfilledupbythegroupofwildmountaineers,withtheirlongbeardsandvividdresses,whogatheredaroundthecheerfulblaze."Thetownisdisappointinginside,"shesays,"althoughtherearesomefinebuildingsstillleft.Brasseyhadherfirstroughexperienceofthesea.TheSobatvalleyismuchmoreattractivetotheeyethanthecourseoftheWhiteNile.Insomeplacesthetransparencywascomplete,andbeneathitmighteasilybeseenthelongstreaksofthatfibrouskindoflava,connectedwithasuperstitionofthenatives,whichisknownas"Pile'shair."LadyBrasseyandhercompanionsreached,atlast,thefootofthepresentactivecrater,whencethemoltencontentsoftheterrestrialinteriorarecontinuallypouringforthinaluridflood.Thefootsinksintoheavyandcostlycarpets;thewallsarehungwithrichtapestry;thefurnitureandmirrorsarefromEuropeanmakers,andgorgeousintheextreme.MadamedeBourboulonaffordsusaglimpse,andaninterestingone,ofthemannersofthenomadtribes:—"Throughoutthedayatropicalheathadprevailed,andintheevening,onarrivingatHaliptchi,wheretheyweretopassthenight,thepostillionseagerlymoveddownuponthevesselsofwaterandcamel'smilkwhichthewomenandchildrenhadmadereadyforthem.Ondiscoveringtheanimal,shehadthepresenceofmind,however,tostandperfectlystill,whileshesummonedhersoldiersandservantstoherassistance."Hitherto,"shewrites,"Ihadhadnopresentimentoftheviolentpassionwhichcanmakeoneeitherthehappiestorunhappiestofwomen.Thegesturesofthesavagesleftnodoubtoftheirintentions;withtheirknivestheysimulatedtheactionofcuttingmythroat,withtheirteeththeyseemedtorendmyarms,andtheymovedupanddowntheirjawbonesasifmyfleshwerealreadyintheirmouths....Whatshesawbynomeansprepossessedherintheirfavour;thewomenwereidle,ignorant,andsqualid;themenworkedaslittleandrobbedasmuchastheycould.Shewaspreparingin1880toreturntoEngland,whenanopportunitywasofferedtoherofeffectingthatreturninamannerwhichcouldnotbutbedelightfultoaladyofadventurousdisposition,withaproperscornforsocial"Mrs.ThefeeisowedtotheowneroftheProjectGutenberg-tmtrademark,buthehasagreedtodonateroyaltiesunderthisparagraphtotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation.Theroadsteadfirstcatchestheeye;itstretcheseastandwest,penetratesinlandtoadepthoffourmilesandthree-quarters,withameanbreadthof1,000yards;andformsthechannelofcommunicationbetweenSevastopolandtheinteriorofthepeninsula."Buttheguideswereimpatienttogainashelterwhereweshouldnotbeexposedtotheavalancheswhichrumbledineverydirection.Hereyes,ifnotasdangeroustotheheartasthoseofourcountry,wherethesunshineofintellectgleamsthroughaheavenofblue,are,nevertheless,perfectintheirkind,andatleastasdangeroustothesenses.TheEuropeancostume,andespeciallythestrawhats,interestedthemgreatly.IntheirhusbandrytheyweremoregovernedbythehabitsoftheirancestorsthanbythenatureofthelandwhichhadoncefedthepeopleofAthens,fortheyneglectedtillageandclungtopastorallife.Wellversedinhistoryandphilosophy,hegaveanewimpulsetoFrederika'sgenius,whilehiswiseandjudiciouscriticismcorrectedtheerrorsintowhichspontaneityandfacilitybetrayedher.Asitslocalityisindicatedbynosignorlandmark,thetravellerisseizedwithastonishmentonsuddenlyfindingitlyingopenbeneathhisfeet.Ifoneladycanmakeavoyageroundtheworld,whyshouldnotanotherrideacrossPatagonia?Manyofmyreadershavedoubtlessfeltthedissatisfactionwithoneselfandeverybodyelsethatcomesoveroneattimesinthemidstofthepleasuresoflife;whenoneweariesoftheshallowartificialityofmodernexistence;whenwhatwasonceexcitementhasbecomesonolonger,andalonginggrowsupwithinonetotasteamorevigorousunctionthanthataffordedbythemonotonousroundofsociety'sso-calledpleasures."Inthisstateofmindshelookedroundforsomecountrythatwouldsatisfyherrequirements,anddecideduponPatagonia,becausenowhereelsecouldshefindanareaof100,000squaremilesfor"equestrianexercise,"whereonewouldbefreefromthepresenceofsavagetribesandobnoxiousanimals,aswellasfromthepersecutionofmorningcalls,invitations,gardenparties,telegrams,letters,andalltheother"resourcesofcivilization."[Pg439]Totheseattractionswasaddedthethought,alwaysalluringtoanactivemind,thatthereshewouldbeabletopenetrateintovastwilds,untrodasyetbythefootofman.HefoundhersmokingalongOrientalpipe,thefellowofwhichsheorderedtobebroughtforhisownuse.TheCorsowasfilledwithpeopleandgendarmes.WritingatAthens,shesays:—"Iconfessthattheeffectproduceduponmeherebylifeandthesurroundingobjectsmakesmealmostdreadtoremainforanylengthoftime;dread,lestbeneaththisclearOlympianheaven,andamidallthedelightfulentertainmentofferedtothesenses,itmightbepossible,not,indeed,toforget,buttofeelmuchlessforciblythegreataimandpurposeofthatlifeforwhichtheGod-Man[Pg178]lived,died,androseagainfromthedead.Uponitrestsabell-shapedcase,aboutthreefeethigh,andatthebasethreefeetindiameter.Hearrivedtowardsmorning,andcalleduponmeincompanywithUlrichLauerer,ofLauterbrunnen.Resuminghervoyage,sheproceededsteadilyinthe[Pg196]directionofthelandoftheDerikas.IfyoudonotchargeanythingforcopiesofthiseBook,complyingwiththerulesisveryeasy."Fromthefirstdaysofmyvisit,Iremarkedwithlivelysurprisethatourhostesswasincessantlyassailedbyacrowdofprettytomtits,whopeckedatherhairandhandswithtrulyextraordinaryfamiliarity.Ourbalconyisdecoratedwithredandwhite,andalongtheoutsideoftheironrailingsmallboxesarehungforthebouquetsandcomfits.Itistothecreditoftheinhabitants,however,thattheyagreetoabstainfromfightingonatleastonedayoftheweek.Madamed'Aunet,asapopularnovelist,knowswhenwritingthatshecancountuponherthousandsofreaders.Totheright,theMittelegi,aspuroftheEiger,elevateditsbareandpolishedsides.Shewentforaride;thepathcarriedherthroughathickgrowthofpalm,orange,guava,andothertropicaltrees,someofwhichwerethicklydrapedwithluxuriantcreepers.QuittingthedesertoftheGobi,ourtravellersenteredthecountryoftheKhalkhas,aregionofgreatforests,pasturages,andcrystalrivers;buteventhisearthlyparadiseofbloom,verdure,andfreshnesswasnotwithoutitsdangers.HehadfollowedtheprincesstoRome,where,amongthemasterpiecesofantiquityandoftheRenaissance,shehaddivinedthebuddinggeniusofhimwhowastocarveineverlastingmarblethemonumentalfigureofthegreatFrederick.Manyofitshousesaresurroundedbybloominggardens;itsshopsarebrightwiththeproductsofEasternlooms;anditdescendsinterracestotheriverbanks,whicharelinedwithorchardsandgrovesofpalm.Grislycrocodileslayinthesun-bakedmud;fromthedepthsoftheintertangledreedsrosethesnortofthehippopotamus;while,withsteadygaze,theelephantwatchedthemovementsofthestrangeapparition.Here,again,worshipseemedtheonlyattitudeforahumanspirit,andthequestionwaseverpresent,'Lord,whatisman,thatThouartmindfulofhim?"Wedismountedfromourhorses,andbyacoveredpassageorarcadeproceededonfoottothelegation.Somedayshehasalargestock-in-trade,sometimesnexttonothing.Shewas157feetinlength,withanextremebreadthoftwenty-sevenanda-halffeet.Theprospectfromthispointembracesthree-fourthsoftheisland;majesticmountainsclothedinvirginforestsalmosttotheirverycrests;wide-spreadingplains,greenwiththesugar-caneplantations;richverdure-cladvalleyswheretheshadowsdrowsilylinger;andbeyond,andallaround,thedarkblueshiningseawithafringeofpearlyfoamindicatingthebrokenoutlineofthecoast.Thenightwasthefirstreallywarmonewehadenjoyed,andthestarsshoneoutbrightly;thesea,whichhadbeenofalovelybluecolourduringtheday,showedaslightphosphorescenceafterdark."Thevoyage,whichopenedinthisstirringmanner,provednotlessprosperousthanpleasant,andwasunmarkedbyanystrikingadventures,thoughnotdevoidofinterestingincidents.Wesupporteditagainstthesideofachasm,theoppositebrinkofwhichlayseveralhundredfeetbelow.Theyhadgoodreasontocongratulatethemselvesontheirescape,forontheverymorningoftheirdeparture,twoChristianshadbeenputtodeathwiththemosthorribletortures.Accordingly,Drs.Thiswasavirginregion,aminehithertounworked,andaccordingly,inordertoprofit[Pg210]tothefullbyitsresources,achainofstationswasestablished,eachinchargeofavakeel,ormanager.ShelovedtheWest,withitsintellectualactivityanddeepmorallife,itsprogressanditsaspirationsafterthehigherliberty.But,forthefirsttimeduringmanyweeks,theskyisgrey,andthestreetsarewetwithrainwhichhasfalleninthenight;itevennowlooksthreatening,andalreadyhasrainedalittle,buttheairissoftandcalm.OntheirwaytoStavropol,theyexperiencedamountain-storm,oneofthegrandestandmostterrible[Pg92]theyhadeverwitnessed.Incoldorrainyweather,theyworeabashlik,orhood,andabourka,orcloak,ofimperviousfelt.Hereisthebilloffare:—Soup.Hesentforhisfinestgarmentsandcostliest"leggear,"girdedonhisweapons,andthenledthewayintohis"interior,"whichwasasbareandunfurnishedasanyConnemarapeasant'scabin,theonlyobjectsvisiblebeingasaddle,afewvessels,andadivancoveredwithreedmatting.Whatwedonotsee,itiseasyenoughtotolerate.Thesummitisoccupiedbytheroyalpalace.Fat,jet-blacknegresses,wearingturbansontheirheads,stringsofcolouredbeadsontheirnecksandarms,andsinglelongwhitegarments,whichappearedtobecontinuallyslippingofftheirshoulders,presidedoverglitteringpilesoforanges,bananas,pine-apples,passion-fruit,tomatoes,apples,pears,capsicumandpeppers,sugar-canes,cabbage-palms,cherimoyas,andbread-fruit.Withthese,themenwearwhite[Pg451]shirtsandsailors'hats,withbright-colouredsilkhandkerchiefstiedoverthemandknottedontheear;orelseagaygarland....Shethenremovedherjewelsandpresentedthemtoher[Pg382]relations,sayingafewwordstoeachwithacalm,softsmileofencouragementandhope.Hismorbidselfconsciousnessandexaggeratedrefinementofmanner,hadexcitedhercontempt.Thesedogsaresentintothewateratthemouthofanarrowcreekorasmallbay,wheretheybarkandflounderaboutuntilthefisharefrightenedintotheshallows.OnreachingthebankofLakeBaikal,ourtravellersweregreatlydisappointedtofindthatthesteamerswhichnavigatethelakehadsustainedsevereinjuries,andwereundergoingrepair.BeneathherwindowswerecarriedeverydaythedeadbodiesofthepoorcreaturesmassacredbytheTaïpings,andshefollowedwithreluctantgazethesesad"waifsandstrays"astheriverconveyedthemseawards.andthesonofman,thatThouvisitesthim?'Irodeupanddownhillslaboriouslyinsnow-drifts,gettingoffoftentoeasemyfaithfulBirdiebywalkingdownice-cladslopes,stoppingconstantlytofeastmyeyesuponthatchangelessglory,alwaysseeingsomenewravine,withitsdepthsofcolourormiraculousbrilliancyofred[Pg432]orphantasyofform.Herpoemsdidnotmaketheirappearanceuntiltwentyyearslater,whentheyhadbeenrevisedandcorrectedbytheirauthor,whomexperiencehadtaughtthatpolishofstyleandgravityoflanguagewhichcanbeacquiredonlybythecarefulstudyofthebestwriters.Ofthesegreatpieceswouldsometimesbreakoff,andwithacrashfallintotheburninglake,theretoberemeltedandinduetimethrownupanew.[33]ThetimespentatHonolulubyLadyBrasseywasbynomeanswasted.Allaresurroundedbygardens,sofullofflowersthatthebrightpatchesofcolourwereplainlyvisibleevenfromthedeckoftheyacht.NobodyinLadyHester'sestablishmentwassufferedtoenjoyanintervalofrest.Itisnotunpleasantinthisstate,butwhencoldfewEuropeanpalatescanrelishit.Oneday,incompanywithseveralyoungpersonsofherownsex,FrederikaBremerpaidavisitofcourtesytothewifeofasheikh,who,wheninformedthattheladiesshehadadmittedtoherpresencewereunmarried,manifestedtheliveliestsurprise,andaddedthatitwasagreatshame.Trèves,aFrenchnavallieutenant,andsomeyoungFrenchinterpreterswerepresent.TurnipTopsandRootPickled.WhiletheyoungandalreadycelebratedengineerwasrewardedwiththeCrossoftheLegionofHonour,hiswife,whohadsharedhislaboursandhisperils,andco-operatedwithhimintheproductionofhisfineworkontheSteppes,washonouredwiththespecialattentionofM.TheoldcathedralofSt.Sophia,nowusedasamosque,issuperbintherichnessofitsdesignandtracery,andthepurityofitsGothicarchitecture."Thislibertyofmockery,pasquinade,andcaricatureattheexpenseofthemandarinsisoneofthemostoriginalsidesofChinesemanners.Occasionallyheliftedtheyounggirl'sveiltoquestionherinthemostrespectfulmanner.Fromthehallwepassintoalargereception-salon,whereadoublerowofwindowsofrichlystainedglassrepresentavarietyofruralscenes.Withindefatigablepensheproduced,in1843,threethree-volumenovels,"Hargreave,""JessiePhillips,"and"TheLaurringtons"—thefirstanotverysuccessfulsketchofamanoffashion;thesecond,anunfairandexaggerateddelineationoftheactionofthenewPoorLaw;andthethird,aforcibleandlivelysatireupon"superiorpeople,"inwhichsomeofthepassagesareinherbeststyle.NorcanweundertaketodwellonMrs.Anyoneofherworks,saysaFrenchcritic,wouldmakeamanfamous;andtheyareunquestionablymarkedbyallthecharacteristicsofanindependentandobservantmind.Now,thisalteredindividualhadnotacoveringtoherbedthatwasnotburntintotwentyholesbythesparksandashesthathadfallenfromherpipe;and,hadnotthesecoveringsbeenallwoollen,itiscertainthat,onsomeunluckynight,shemusthavebeenconsumed,bedandall.Thetimeisthefirstandbrilliantperiodofhisreign,whenthekinggathersaroundhimartistsandmenofscience,andwritestoHumboldtinvitationstodinnerinverse,whichhesealswiththegreatSealofState,inorderthatthephilosophermayhavenoexcuseforabsentinghimself.Evidentlynaturehadgiftedherwithastrongconstitution:shewasphysicallyaswellasmentallystrong.Thereareneitherwindows,nordoors,noranykindofbarrier,betweentheexteriorandtheinterior.Oneortwotherewere,certainly,whotoweredfarabovehim,butthesewereexceptions."Themagnoliasandyellowandscarlethibiscus,overshadowingthewater,thevelvetyturf,ontowhichonestepsfromtheboat,thewhiteroadrunningbetweenrowsofwoodenhouses,whoselittlegardensareamassofflowers,themenandwomencladinthegayestrobesanddeckedwithflowers,thepilesofunfamiliarfruitlyingonthegrass,waitingtobetransportedtothecoastingvesselsin[Pg358]theharbour,thewide-spreadingbackgroundofhillscladinverduretotheirsummits—thesearebutafewoftheobjectswhichgreetthenewcomeronhisfirstcontactwiththeshore."TheimpressionproducedbythefirstviewwasdeepenedbyallthatLadyBrasseysawafterwards."Neverbeforehasoneseenorheardanythingcomparabletothatwhichoneseesandhearsthere;onehasconceivedofnothinglikeit,eveninone'sdreams!Itbelongsatoncetothefantasticandtothereal:itdisconcertsthememory,dazesthemind,andfillsitwithanindescribablesenseofaweandadmiration.Giganticeagles,rousedfromtheireyries,sweptwithheavywingfromcragtocrag,themonarchsofthesesolitudes.Inthemidstofhernumerousengagements,inthemidstofthehomagerenderedtoherwitandgrace,shefoundtimetocollectamassofvaluablenotesontheconditionandinnerlifeofthegreatRussianEmpire,severalprovincesofwhichsheknewfrompersonalobservation.Itisthesilenceoftheforestthatmakesitsmystery.Butinstead,theelderofthetwobeganbydeclaringthatthedinnerwasexcellent,andwentontosaythatthiswasthemorefortunatebecauseitwouldassuredlybethelasttheyshouldeatinthisworld;thatasforthebill,hemustbegoodenoughtoexcusepayment,inasmuchasneitherofthempossessedafarthing.Unfortunatelyshetravelledasaphilosopher,notasanobserverofnature;engagedinthestudyofsocialquestions,sheseemstohavehadneithertheleisurenortheinclinationtosurveythemagnificentscenerythroughwhichshepassed.Withvigilanteyeshewatchedthewavesastheyrolledpastwithglitteringcrestsoffoam,andthelightsandshadowswhichchasedoneanotherinswiftsuccessionoverthepurpleexpanse,assunshineorcloudrestedonthebosomofthesapphiresky.Whatanimmortalityoffamewouldbehersifsheprevailedovereveryobstacleanddifficulty,andpenetrated,asnoEuropeanyethaddone,totheremotesource,theparentfountainofthewatersofEgypt'sgreathistoricriver!Itmustbeownedthat,ifthiswereherambition,therewasnothingmeanorunworthyinit.[Pg188]Shesetoutonthe9thofJanuary,1862,stillaccompaniedbyhermotherandheraunt,overwhomherresolutenatureexercisedanundisputedascendancy,voyagingintheirboats,whichcarriedalargestockofprovisions,anamplesupplyofmoney,chieflyincopper,andanumeroustrainofguides,guards,andservants.Tabrîz,theresidenceofaviceroy,isahandsomelybuilttown,withnumeroussilkandleathermanufactories;itisreputedtobeoneofthechiefseatsofAsiaticcommerce.AtlengthshedecidedonavisittotheMauritius.WithtrueOrientaldevotednesstheystandbytheirdeadandwoundedtothelastextremity,andfightwiththemostdoggedcouragetopreventthemfromfallingintothehandsoftheenemy.Alongshawlofyellowcashmere,anampleTurkishrobeofwhitesilk,withhangingsleeves,envelopedherwholepersonintheirsimpleandmajesticfolds;sothatyoucouldbutcatchaglimpse,wherethisoutertunicopenedonthebosom,ofasecondrobeofPersianstuff,whichwasfastenedatthethroatbyaclaspofpearls.Shewasofratherdarkcomplexion,stronglyandevensturdilybuilt,and,thoughseventy-fiveyearsofage,remarkablyhaleandactive.Themysticsymbol,placedaboveacrescent,eloquentlyinterpretedtheconditionofalifedividedbetweenloveandgrief.Ouradventurer,withhearttouchedbythemagicalbeautyandmagnificenceofthescene,crossedasteepwoodedinclineintoadeephollow,where,embosomedinthemountain-solitude,sleptalily-coveredlake,cradlingwhite,pureblossomsandbroadgreenleaves,andaptlynamed"TheLakeoftheLilies."Calmonitsamethyst-colouredwaterslaythetremulousshadowofthegreatdarkpinewoods.Redistributionissubjecttothetrademarklicense,especiallycommercialredistribution.Asfortherider,hiscoolnesswouldhaveputtoshamethemost[Pg78]accomplishedhorsemaninEurope.Theresultwas,astrongandaffectionateinterestinthegreatWesternCommonwealth—aninterestsostronganddeepthatitmadehersomewhatunjusttoEngland,whichshehadformerlyplacedinthefrontrankofthenationsasthemotherofprogressandtruefreedom.MeanwhileshewasaconstantcontributortoMr.CharlesDickens's"HouseholdWords,"andtothecolumnsofthe"DailyNews."Inthemidstofallthisactivityshewassuddenlystruckdownbydiseaseoftheheart,andherdoctorsannouncedthatshemightdieatanymoment.Told,too,withaliteraryskillandarefinedtastewhichhavegreatlycharmedthepublic,andgivenapermanentvaluetoherrapidrecord.Afewminutes,andincameourhostinsearchofthemysteriouscouple,toconductthemtoaprivateapartment.HisfatherandfamilyhadbeenmassacredatSpiritLakebythehandsofIndians,whocarriedawayhissister,achildofeleven.Shehadrealizedhervisions;theromanceoftheEastwasaroundher,andshethemostconspicuousfigureinit.OntheoccasionofanexcursiontoTrieste,thesightofthesearevivedinheralltheoldpassionatelonging,andthevisionsofherchildhoodbecamethefixedresolvesandconvictionsofherwomanhood.TheQueenwasattiredinawidesilksimboo,andworeonherheadalargegoldencrown.Trollope'sadmiration."Thereadermayjudgewithwhatpleasureweregainedthepureair,thebluesky,andallthecomfortableappliancesofourquartersatTsing-kong-fou."HavingmadethejourneyfromChinatoEuropefivetimesbysea,MadamedeBourboulonandherhusbandresolvedthattheirsixthshouldbebyland,being[Pg277]desirousofrenderingsomedirectservicetosciencebypenetratingintoregionsofwhichlittlewasknown.ShehastenedtoMilan,whichhadexpelleditsAustriangarrison,andatherownexpenseequippedtwohundredhorse,whomsheledagainsttheenemy.TheclassicairofItalywasnotfavourabletothedevelopmentofherpeculiarpowers,andamongtheantiquitiesofRomethehumourwhichsketchedsoforciblythebroadfeaturesofAmericansocietywasnecessarilyoutofplace.Ithas,however,onegoodquality.Themountainsarerentandsplintered;thewavesdashfuriouslyagainstthegranitecapes;theicebergs,astheyshiverintopieces,giveventtosharpreportsliketherattleofmusketry;thewindwithahoarseroar,scatterstornadoesofsnowabroad....In1834MissMartineau"qualified,"sotospeak,foraplaceamongfemaletravellers,byvisitingtheUnitedStates.ThegreatroadofMongoliaislinedonbothsideswithpagodas,houses,andahostofsmallwaysidepublicinns,paintedwithstripesofred,green,andblue,andsurmountedbythemostattractivesigns."Inthecourseofthejourneywepassedalargeestancia,theroadtowhichwasmarkedbythedeadbodiesandskeletonsofthepoorbeastswhohadperishedinthelatedroughts.Everybody,"headds,"whovisitedLadyHesterStanhopeinherretirementwillbearwitnesstoherunexampledcolloquialpowers;toherprofoundknowledgeofcharacter;toherinexhaustiblefundofanecdotes;tohertalentsformimicry;tohermodesofnarration,asvariousasthesubjectsshetalkedabout;totheloftyinspirationandsublimityofherlanguage,whenthesubjectrequiredit;andtoherpathosandfeeling,whenevershewishedtoexcitetheemotionsofherhearers.RawFish,MustardandCress,Horseradish,andSoy.ShelearnedinSwitzerlandtoloveandappreciateliberty,asinItalythefinearts,andinEnglandindustry.HencetheheterogeneoustoiletsofstrangerswholandinParis,persuadedthattheyaredressedinthelatestfashion."[Pg299]AtAtchinsk,whichseparatesEastfromWestSiberia,thetravellerswerereceivedwithgracefulhospitality,butmadenolengthenedstay.Theyconsistofmassivefragmentsofwallsandcolumns,lyingoneithersideoftheEuphrates."Suchchildishness,"asMadamedeHellremarks,"socommonamongtheOrientals,wouldinduceustoformanunfavourable[Pg108]opinionoftheirintelligence,wereitnotredeemedbytheirinnateloveofbeautyandtheirgenuinepoeticsentiment.Thepilecontinuedtoburnforthreehours;butfromitsformitissupposedthatalmostimmediatesuffocationmusthaveterminatedthesufferingsoftheunhappyvictim."Thereisaverycharmingbook,brightlywritten,anddealingwithaninterestingpeople,whichreachesveryhighintheliteratureoftravel.Hecannotmakehiswaythroughthedryandwitheredvegetationwithoutacracklingofleavesandasnappingofstems,whichgiveinstantalarmtovigilantandsuspiciousears.AtatowncalledRavandus,MadamePfeifferhadnumerousopportunitiesofobservingthemannersandcustomsoftheKurds.Theyarecannibals,and,accordingtoanoldwriter,"magpiesinchatter,baboonsincountenance,andimpsintreachery."Wheneveritisseenthatashipisindistress,orthatashipwreckedcrewhavebeencastashore,signalfiresblazeoneveryprominentpoint,toconveythegoodnewstothewholeislandpopulation,andimmediatelythenativesassemble,liketheclansatRoderickDhu'sbidding,inScott's"LadyoftheLake."Butifallgoeswell,avesselmaypassthroughMagellan'sStraitswithoutdiscerninganysignofhumanlife,thesavagesandtheircanoeslyinghiddenbeneaththeleafyscreenofoverhangingboughs.Rauchisagrandtypeofaman.Ah!Iseemywayalittlebeforeme,andGodvouchsafestoenlightenmeperhapsmorethanotherpeople....[Pg336]"ItwaseveranobjectwithmetosearchoutwhyIcameintotheworld,whatIoughttodoinit,andwhereIshallgoto.Allhandsweresoonbusilyemployedinrepairingdamages;andverypicturesquethedeckandriggingoftheSunbeamlooked,withthevariousgroupsofmenoccupiedupontheropes,spars,andsails.Shestepsintoit,andgivestheword,"DrivetotheDorcasSociety."Herfootmanstaysathometocleantheknives,buther[Pg389]coachmancantrusthishorseswhileheopensthecarriagedoor,andhisladynotbeingaccustomedtoahandoranarm,getsoutverysafelywithout,thoughoneofherownisoccupiedbyaworkbasket,andtheotherbyalargerollofallthoseindescribablematterswhichladiestakeasofferingstoDorcassocieties.Assoonashehaddisappeared,acurtainwasraisedattheotherendoftheapartment,andastrikinglybeautifulwoman,richlyclad,madeherentry.Justbeforearrivingatthepointwherethestreamhadtobecrossed,thehorseswerewellfloggedandurgedonatagallop,whichtheygallantlymaintaineduntiltheothersidewasreached.Thelittleromance,accordingtoMadameIdaPfeiffer,endedasfollows:—"Threelongyearspassedwithoutourmeeting,andwithoutanychangetakingplaceinmyfeelings.Shehadtoundergothestrainof[Pg46]dailyfatigueandtheheatofascorchingsun;tofearneitherbarrenrocks,norprecipices,nordangerouspathways,norbrigands.Ifyoureceivedtheworkonaphysicalmedium,youmustreturnthemediumwithyourwrittenexplanation.Wewereobligedtolendeachothermoreassistancethaninascending,andmorethanoncewenearlyfellintotheabysses.Hiscertificateswereperfectlyregular;butonhispresentinghimselfhewasrejected,withthecurtexplanationthatnomanbearingthenameofF——(hisuncle'sname)wouldbeadmitted.Atapublicreceptionshewasaddressedbythepresident,deJomard,who,afterbrieflyenumeratinghertitlestodistinction,said:—"Madame,inyourfavourwedesigntocommitanirregularityofwhichourSocietyisproud:wenameyouanhonorarymemberbythesideofyourcountry-men,HumboldtandKarlRitter;"andrecallingafamoussaying,headded,"Nothingiswantingtoyourglory,madame,butyouarewantingtoours."Shenowundertook—whattoherwasmerelyabriefholiday-trip—thevoyagetotheCapeofGoodHope.[Pg258]Thereshehesitatedforawhileinwhatdirectionsheshouldturnheradventurousstepsbeforeshepushedforwardtothegoalonwhichshehadfixedheraims—Madagascar.Shesoaredawaytoloftiertopics;sothatthesecondinterview,thoughitlastedtwoorthreehours,wasalloccupiedbyhermystical,theological,transcendental,necromanticaldiscourse,inwhichshedisplayedtheexpressiveness,ifnottheglowingeloquence,ofaColeridge.Thiswasfollowedbyher"IntroductiontotheHistoryofthePeace,from1800to1815."AcarefulEnglishcondensationofComte's"PositivePhilosophy"appearedin1853.Atherrequest,theguideturnedboat-builder.Theyarefaithfulhusbandsandgoodwives."Thatyounggirl,whohasjustgivenaproofofhereruditionisHelenaGhika,nowfamousundertheliterarypseudonymofDorad'Istria.Why?Hereishisdescriptionofit,somewhatexaggeratedincolouring:[Pg318]—"Gloomytrellises,theverdurousroofsofwhichbore,likethousandsoflustres,thegleaminggrapesofthePromisedLand;kiosks,wherecarvedarabesqueswereentertwinedwithjasminesandclimbingplants,thelianasofAsia;basins,intowhichthewaters—artificialtheyarehere—flowedfromafartoleapandmurmurinthemarblejetsofalleyslinedwithallthefruittreesofEngland,ofEurope,andofthesunnyEasternclimates;greenleavesbesprinkledwithblossomingshrubs,andmarblebedsenclosingsheavesofflowers."Shealsoexhibitedtoherfamousguest,if,indeed,hemaybeimplicitlycredited,thenotedmarewhichrealizedancientprophecy,inwhichnaturehadaccomplishedallthatiswrittenontheanimaldestinedtothehonourofcarryingtheMessiah—"Shewillbebornreadysaddled."Hesays:"Andintruth,Isaw,onthisbeautifulanimal,afreakofnature,rareenoughtoencouragetheillusionofavulgarcredulityamonghalf-barbarouspeoples:insteadofshoulders,shehadacavitysobroadanddeep,andsoexactlyimitatingtheshapeofaTurkishsaddle,thatonemighttruthfullysayshewasbornreadysaddled,and,withstirrupsathand,onemightreadilyhavemountedherwithoutasaddle."ThismagnificentbaymarewastheobjectofprofoundrespectandadmirationonthepartofLadyStanhopeandherslaves;shehadneverbeenridden,andacoupleofArabgroomscaredforherandwatchedhercarefully,neverlosingsightofher.ItwasafterthisthatLadyHesterpassedbythespot;andshedescribed,withanimatedgesture,theforceandenergywithwhichthediviningtwighadsuddenlyleapedinherhands.AMussulmanwillneverbeconsoledforhavingfailedtoobservethelawsofhospitality.Thefactwas,thathisnaturewasthatofastatesman;hewasborn,notmade,andperformedhisworkasMozartexecutedhissymphoniesorRaphaelpainted[Pg166]hispictures,withouttorturinghisbrains,withoutanyspecialdifficulty.ThoughitwastheendofJanuary,andsnowwasdeepontheground,bothintownandcountry,hepreferredhisfrozenfountain,hisdamppavementanddraughtsofair,tothehot,butunwholesome,atmosphereoftheharem.TheweatherwasstillsunnywhentheyarrivedontheshoresoftheSeaofAzov;butnextdaytheskyworethatsombrechillyhuewhichalwaysprecedesthemetels,orsnow-storms.Ofthenumeroussuicideswhichhalfacenturyagowererecordedinthenewspapers,Mrs.Astrongdesirepossessedhertobecomeawarrior;itwas,intruth,thebirdbeatingagainstthebars:therestlessnessandactivityofageniuswhichasyethadnotfounditsproperchannelofexpression.Twoyoungpeople,scarcelyoutoftheirchildhood,wentintoarestaurantandorderedadinnerofextraordinarydelicacyandnotlessextraordinarycost,returningattheappointedtimetopartakeofit.Hereducationstillcontinued;shestudiedEnglishandGerman,andmadeconsiderableprogressinhistoryandgeography.Thehousesbeingallofonestory,thechimneysbeingverywideandnotrisingabovetheleveloftheroof,itoftenhappensthatbystoopingalittleinfrontofthechimney-placeyouseetheskythroughtheopening.Severalcartsstoodunyoked,andpeasantslaybesidethem,calmlywaitingfordaylight.Theprincesslookedatthehusband,hesmiledsadly,butwithoutanyshadowofill-will.HommairedeHellhefoundone.ThefootfallsnoiselesslyuponsoftEgyptianmats:thewallsareblazonedwithsentencesfromtheKoran,writteningoldonablackgroundinthosefantasticTurkishcharacterswhichseembetteradaptedtoexpressthevagariesofapoeticalfancythantobecomethevehiclesofsoberthought.Thisisthecustom;andtomeitseemsmoreingeniousandbetteradaptedtoattractpurchasers,thantheartisticallyarrangedshop-windowswhichoneseesinEurope.Butangelsdon'tappeartoeverybody.Theyarealmosttothemannerborn,forfromtheirearliestchildhoodtheyliveanamphibiouslife,andneverseemhappierthanwhentheyarediving,swimming,bathing,orplayingtricksinthebrightemeraldwatersthatwashthesmilingshoresoftheirfavoured[Pg366]isle,orinthoseofthepleasantriverthatflowsbythegrovesandgardensofHilo.South-westoftheCarpathianslivetheSlovaks;inCroatiaandServiatheCroatSerbs;andintheprovincessouth-eastoftheCarpathiansaretheRusniaksorRuthenians.Thus,wedonotnecessarilykeepeBooksincompliancewithanyparticularpaperedition.MissBirdtraversedaportionofColoradoin1878,onherwayto[Pg419]exploretherecessesoftheRockyMountains.Ifyousettheclockgoinginpropertime,itafterwardsgoesalone,andyouhavenoneedtobealwaystickinglikeapendulum.Shethoughtshewaslost,butdespairnervedhertouseherownknife;shemadeathrustathisbreast,butsucceededonlyinwoundinghimseverelyinthehand.Wordsarepowerlesstodescribethebeautyoftheday,andthescenewhichdevelopedbeforeme.AtthefirstglanceIcouldnothelpthinkingthatIsawbeforemeacityofthefays,destroyedatonefellblowbyasuperiorpower,andcondemnedtodisappearwithoutleavingatraceofitsexistence.Everythingportendedagale.Inhisdemeanourhehasalltheself-possessionandeaseofaperfectmanoftheworld."TheRomanCarnivalhasoftenbeendescribed,butnever,wethink,withmorelivelyappreciationofitshumorousfeaturesthanbyFrederikaBremer.Thegeneral,whoownedalargeestateintheneighbourhood,wherehecultivatedafamousbreedofMerinosheep,hadformedaprojectforerectingmillsupontheDnieper.ImaythankGodformysufferings,astheyhaveenabledmetodivedeeperintothesubjectthan,Ibelieve,anypersonliving.Theinteriorisdividedintoonelargeapartmentandafewcabinets,whicharelightedbyquaint-patternedwindows."Myhusband,aswehadpreconcerted,attemptedtofollowus,and,noimpedimentbeingoffered,unceremoniouslypassedthroughthelittledoorintothepark,crossedthelatter,boldlyascendedaterraceadjoiningthepalace,andatlastfoundhimself—muchsurprisedathisextraordinarygoodfortune—inalittleroomthatseemedoneoftheprincess'sprivateapartments.Accordingtowhatsheheardfrommanyofhisfriends,Cavouroccupiedhisseatwithtolerableease,andwithoutunduestraindischargedhisdutiesasFirstMinisterofPiedmont,andtheshaperofitsdestiny.Itgoesoverfamiliar—nay,overhackneyed—ground,andthusinevitablycomesintocomparisonwiththeworksofprecedingtravellers,suchasMissMartineauandtheauthorof"Eöthen,"towhosehighstandardLadyBrasseywouldbethefirsttoacknowledgethatshehasnopretensionstoattain.Withagreatfireofpine-logstoprotectthemagainsttherigourofthenight—forthethermometermarkedtwelvedegreesbelowfreezing-point—ourtravellerspassedthehoursofdarkness.Theblazeofsunshineisroundherkiosk,butshesitsinthesoftenedshadowsodeartothepainter'seye.EveryNovemberthesewerevisitedbythetraders,whocarriedoffintheirboatstheaccumulatedivory,andsometimesaddedtotheircargoofelephants'tuskstheunfortunatenegroeswhohadservedthemasguidesandhunters.Onemanheldaheavyaxeoverhisheadasifabouttofellatree,andinthispositionstoodimmovablelikeastatue;anotherheldthepointofhistoetohisnose.Thegreatattractionofherconversationwasitsreflectionofonestrangepersonality:sheglassedherselfinitasinamirror;andasshehadseenmuch,andknownmanygreatmen,andgonethroughavastvarietyofexperience,shehadalwayssomethingtotellwhichwasinteresting.Atastillgreaterdistance,inthesamedirection,andintheinteriorofthecountry,isaloftymountain,snow-crowned,and,beyondthatwallofrock,invisibletooureyes,layJerusalem!"LandingatJoppa,MissBremerandherpartyhiredhorsestocarrythemtotheHolyCity;butitwasnotwithoutmuchmentalperturbationthatthenovelist,whowasbutanindifferentequestrian,sawherselfatthemercyofayoungandfierycourser.vonHumboldtandtheagedRauch,thePrussiansculptor,examinethem,andinvestigatetheirsecrets.Madness,whichrevealsitselfonlytooclearlyinthevictim'seyes,wasnottobedetectedinherfrank,directlook—madness,whichinvariablybetraysitselfinconversation,whichitinvoluntarilyinterruptsbysudden,irregular,andeccentricoutbreaks,wasnowherediscernibleinLadyHester'sexalted,mystical,andcloudy,butsustained,connectedandvigorousmonologues.In1841theworkswehaveenumeratedweretranslated[Pg141]intoGerman,toattaininGermanytoasgreatandenduringapopularityastheyhadacquiredintheirnativecountry.Oneoftheladiesofhonourthenroseandperformedafewsteps,turningslowlyuponherself;whileanother,whoremainedseated,drewforthfromabalalaika(anOrientalguitar)certaindolefulsounds,ill-adaptedtothemovementsofadancer.SheremainedinthegreatWesternRepublicfortwoyears,traversingitfromnorthtosouth,andcollectingamassofinformationonsocial,moral,andreligioustopics."PicturetoyourselfoneofEve'sbrightestdaughters,inEve'sownlovingland.TwoChinesemandarins—onewiththeredbutton;theother,hisinferiorinrank,withthewhite—gravelyawaitedthemomentofdeparturetoescortthetravellersasfarasKalgan,andtotakecarethat,uponrequisitionbeingmade,theywereprovidedwitheverythingnecessarytotheircomfort.Hewasrathermorefrankthanmostwarriors,who'shouldertheircrutch,andshowhowfieldsarewon;'fortheusualendofhisbattlestorieswasthenaïveconfession,'andthenIthoughtIshouldbekilled,andsoIranaway.'HeandIusedupagreatmanyinterpreters[Pg458]inthecourseofthevisit;forheweariedeveryoneout,andnothingmadehimsoangryasanyattempttocondensehisconversationintranslatingittome.Itwouldimposeonthemajourneyofsixthousandmiles,inthemidstofhalf-savagepopulations,andoversteppesanddesertsvirtuallypathless;theywouldhavetoclimbsteepmountain-sides,tofordbroadrivers;and,finally,tosleepundernobetterroofthanthatofatent,andtoliveonmilk,butter,andsea-biscuitforseveralmonths.Wecouldgainnoinformationfromthemastotherelationsexistingbetweenherandtheyoungchief,themoralcausesofhermalady,or,inaword,theinterestingpartofthestory."[Pg95]MADAMEHOMMAIREDEHELL.Shewore,shetellsus,strongmen'sshoes,trousers,andablouse,whichcoveredthehips.Infiniteprecautionsweretakenintheremovaloftheunknownlady,whoseemedtobeonthebrinkofthegrave."AboutmidwaybetweenGrindelwaldandInterlachen,wewereovertakenbyastormasviolentasthatwhichhadheraldedourdeparture.Thisbridge,acuriousworkofart,measuresonehundredandfiftyyardsinlengthandthirtyinbreadth;themarblebalustradesareskilfullycarved,andsurmountedbymarblelionsintheChinesetaste."Itisthecolourofbloodjustspilled,"saidanegrotohisfamily.Theysaidthat,inrecognitionofmyself-reliance,theywouldentrusttomethedirectionoftheenterprise.Verypleasantthevisitorfindsit,tosaunteramongtheplantationsofclovesandnutmegs,theairbreathingapeculiarbalsamicfragrance,aconcentrationofsweetodours.Restoredtohealthin1845,sheremovedtoAmbleside,amongthelakesandmountains,settlingintheimmediateneighbourhoodofthepoetWordsworth.Hemusthaveeyestoseeandearstohear;andthathisfellowmaybethewiser,better,andhappierforhisenterprise,hemusthavethefacultyofdescribing[Pg426]whathehasseenandheardinlanguageofadequateforceandclearness.Vegetationbecamemoreluxuriant,andwasonalargerscale;thebushesresoundedwiththesongsofbirds,echoingclearlyacrossthetransparentwater.ThenextjokewasconnectedwiththeJewesses,fourorfiveofwhomsatinarowinthediwán.InnopartoftheworlddidshemeetwithsolittlesympathyorsomuchdiscourtesyasinSpanishAmerica,andshewasheartilygladtosetsailforPanama."Laterstill,newastonishmentawaitedmefromthecampofthegiants.Butwhatmeansthisnoisymusic,thischarivariofflutesandtrumpets,drums,andstringedinstruments?W.Howshoulditbeotherwiseamongwomensecludedfromexercise,andpamperedwithalltheluxuriesofOrientallife."Wewent,andfoundupwardsofahundredpersons,judgesandnoblesandofficers,seatedinalargesemi-circleuponchairsandbenches,andsomeupontheground.Laborde,'Ithinkourlasthourhasarrived.'Hereplied,'Iampreparedforeverything.'"Happily,thebalancewentdowninfavourofmercy.In1859shepublishedherownnarrativeofadventureandtravelinthesteppesoftheCaucasus.Inadayortwofreshremediesorconcoctionswouldtaketheirplace.None[Pg26]couldaccustomthemselvestotheideaofsoextraordinaryascheme.AbandoningthesteppesandforestsofWesternSiberia,ourtravellerscrossedthegreatUralrangeofmountains,madetheirwaytoPerm,andthencetotheVolga."Liketwoall-consumingflames,"shewrites,"thedesiretoknowandthedesiretoenjoywereburninginmysoul,withoutbeingsatisfiedformanylongyears.Youmaycopyit,giveitawayorre-useitunderthetermsoftheProjectGutenbergLicenseincludedwiththiseBookoronlineatwww.gutenberg.orgTitle:CelebratedWomenTravellersoftheNineteenthCenturyAuthor:W.MadamedeBaluseckandIwereamusingourselveswiththisgrotesquemirage,whenourattentionwasattractedbyastillmorecuriousphenomenon:thesun,asitrose,dissipatingthemorningmists,revealedtousCaptainBouvier,who,hithertohiddenintheobscurity,wasgallopingaboutahundredyardsinadvanceofus;hehadbecometrebled—thatis,oneachsideofhima[Pg295]doublehadtakenitsplace,imitatingfaithfullyhismovementsandgestures.ToSENDDONATIONSordeterminethestatusofcomplianceforanyparticularstatevisitWhilewecannotanddonotsolicitcontributionsfromstateswherewehavenotmetthesolicitationrequirements,weknowofnoprohibitionagainstacceptingunsoliciteddonationsfromdonorsinsuchstateswhoapproachuswithofferstodonate.Thisdelightfulvisionlastedanhour.Instudyinganationonlyinitscontemporarymanifestations,oneisexposedtotheerrorintowhichonewouldassuredlyfallifoneattemptedtoestimatethecharacterofanindividualafterlivingonlyafewhoursinhiscompany.Silvercoins,strungtogether,arecarriedinbandsacrosstheforehead,andhangdownthecheeks.Theseshelaidinhotashes,coveringthemcompletely;filledherleathernflaskfromtheTigris,andthusprovidedregainedtheencampmentformedbythecaravan.WemustnotomitfromourchronicleoffemaletravellersthenameofMadameCatherinedeBourboulon.Seeingthemthroughthemist,IbegantothinkofOssian'sheroes."Piatigorskisnotsomuchatownasapleasantclusterofcountry-houses,inhabitedforsomemonthsoftheyearbyaricharistocracy.IdaPfeifferwasnothingifnotadventurous,andwhateverwastobedared,shestraightwayconfronted."Ishallneverforget,"saysMadamedeHell,"theglanceswhichtheyflungonourCossacksastheypassedby,thoughitwasonlyinlookstheydurstmanifestthehatredthatseethedintheirheartsagainsteverythingRussian.Butthefloorwasnotboarded,thewallswereroughplastered,andtheonlyprovisionforlightandairweretwolittleholesfurnishedwithshutters.TheTurksandArabscannotbelieveintheimportanceofpersonageswithouttitlesofdistinction;andhencethesmallestprolétairewhocanequipacaravanissalutedwiththenameofexcellency.Personsandsituationsheknowshowtogroupinthemosteffectivemanner;incidentsassumetheirmostdramaticform;scenesareworkedupsoastoproduceadefiniteimpressiononthereader'smind.Itwasaneerieride,onenottobeforgotten,thoughtherewasnodanger."ItwouldbedifficulttopointoutanydeficiencyonMissBird'spartinthosequalificationswhichconstituteagreattraveller.Thesceneryarounditisofarichandagreeablecharacter,andtheislandonwhichitissituatedexcelsinfertilityofvegetation.Thespectatormightalmostfancyhimtobemounteduponthesea-horseofancientmyths,andholdingitsgreycurlingmane,asitsnortsandchampsandplungesshoreward,wrappedinsprayandfoam.Butinphilosophyasinreligion,herimmenseegotismledherastray.But,generallyspeaking,theyconstitutetwogreatclasses:thosewhodiscover,andthosewhoobserve—thatis,thosewhopenetrateintoregionshithertountroddenbycivilizedmen,andaddnewlandstothemapsofthegeographer;andthosewhosimplyfollowinthetrackoftheirbolderormorefortunatepredecessors,gatheringupfuller,and,itmaybe,moreaccurateinformation.RichlygiftedbyNature'sliberalhand,ithasalwaysbeenanobjectofdesiretothepeopleofEuropeandAsia.ProjectGutenberg-tmeBooksareoftencreatedfromseveralprintededitions,allofwhichareconfirmedasPublicDomainintheU.S.unlessacopyrightnoticeisincluded.IntheheartoftheDovrefeldMountainsaregrandandsublimelandscapesofpeakandravine,cataractandforest,notinferiortothemostfamousscenesinSwitzerland.Meanwhile,Iexercisedmyselfbywalkingupanddownmyroom,forIfearedtheguideswoulddespairofmeiftheysawme[Pg31]stumbleateverystep.NotthatGodgoesandgivesthemtohim,anymorethanthebigmylordgoesandgivesorderstohisshoe-black.Hughesembodiesmuchcuriousandsuggestiveinformationinheraccountofa"ResidenceinChina."MissGertrudeForde's"Lady'sTourinCorsica"isaninterestingsupplementtopreviousworksonthatromanticisland.ButasMadamePfeifferwantedtoseetheChineseathome,shemadenostayinthishybridtown,butascendedthePearlRiver,marvellingmuchattheimmense[Pg233]rice-plantationsoneitherbank,andthequaintlittlecountryhouses,withtheirfrontsofcolouredtiles,toCanton.Thepatrioticfireburnedbrightlyinhergirl'sheart.Asalinguistsheearnedspecialdistinction.Peteroccupiedthebox.Inthemiddleofthecavern,oppositetheentrance,wasagreatpillarofice,resemblingacataractsuddenlyfrozen.Theairissoftandmild;sometimesthecloudsuniteaboveourheadsandslidedownwardsintothewest,whiletheeasternportionofthecelestialvaultissereneandpureasadiamondofthefinestwater.Itisterrible,itismagnificent;oneseemstohearthechorusoftheabyssesoftheoldworldpreludinganewchaos.TheythenturnedtothelefttosaluteKingRadama'stomb,whichwascloseathand,withthreesimilarbows,afterwardstakinguptheirformerpositioninfrontofthebalcony,andmakingthreeadditionalobeisances.Caughtinaviolentstorm,theshipwaswreckedonareefneartheislandofRhodes.Theyturnedupasfrequentlyas"theheadofCharlesI."inMr.Dick'sdiscourse.FriedFish,Spinach,YoungRushes,andYoungGinger.Theawfulworkofthevolcano—theimmensebouldersofrockwhichliepileduptothe[Pg440]cloudsinirregularmasses—havebeenclothedinabrilliantweboftropicalvegetation,purpleandgreen,sunshineandmist.Tosomeextentshewasinfluenced,perhaps,bythewide-spreadreputationofMrs."Theprestige,"hesays,"createdbytherumoursofherhighandundefinedrank,aswellasofherwealthandcorrespondingmagnificence,waswellsustainedbyherimperiouscharacteranddauntlessbravery."LadyHester,inconversationwiththeEuropeanvisitors,wouldoccasionallymentionsomeofthecircumstancesthatassistedhertosecureaninfluenceamountingalmosttosovereignty.Alawyerwhohadundertakenhisdefencelostallhisclients.Trollope,"ifIhearditsaidthataFrenchmanofgoodeducationhadeverspokenrudelytohiswife!"Tooneoftheworstenemiesoftheold-fashioned

courtesyshemakesapassingallusion,whilehoping[Pg396]cordiallythattheladieswilleasilyconquerit—wemeanPositivism.Alighttunicofpinkorpalebluecrapeiscoveredwithalongsilkrobe,openatthebosom,andbuttonedthencedownwardtothedelicatelyslipperedlittlefeet,thatpeepdaintilyfrombeneaththefullsilkentrousers.Thosegloomymountainswhichsurroundedme,thattranquillitytroubledonlybytherashofthetorrentinthevalleyandbyanoccasionalavalanche,allthiswastrulymajestic,andIfeltasiftransportedintoaworldwhereallthingswereunlikewhatIhadseenbefore.Hesangliketherestofthecaravan,hisstrongvoicerisingaboveall.Itsliberalopinions,whichtheConservativesofto-daywouldpronouncemilk-and-water,flutteredthedove-cotesofToryismundertherégimeofLordLiverpool,andprovokedWilsonCroker,the"Rigby"ofLordBeaconsfield's"Coningsby,"tofalluponittoothandnail.ChristinaTrivulzia,PrincessofBelgiojoso,wasbornonthe28thofJune,1808.Herlargecommandingfeaturesremindedhimofthegreatstatesman,hergrandfather,asheisseeninCopley'sfamouspicture;herfacewasofsurprisingwhiteness;sheworeaverylargeturban,composedofpalecashmereshawls,andsoarrangedastoconcealthehair;herdress,fromthechindowntothepointatwhichitwasconcealedbythedraperyonherlap,wasamassofwhitelinenlooselyfolding—anecclesiasticalsortofaffair—morelikeasurplicethananyofthoseblessedcreationswhichoursoulsloveunderthenamesof"dress,"and"frock,"and"bodice,"and"collar,"and"habit-shirt,"andsweet"chemisette."SuchwastheoutwardseemingofLadyHesterStanhope,thegrand-daughterofChatham,theadviserofPitt,theQueenofPalmyra,theprophetessoftheLebanon—shewho,inherlife,hadplayedsomanyparts,butinallhadgivenfullreintohermaster-passion,pride.Herhome-lifewasnotahappyone,andunquestionablyitsaustereinfluencesdidmuchtodevelopinherthatcolossalegotismandself-sufficiencywhichmarredhercharacter,andhasleftitsinjuriousimpressonherwritings.Ifherevidencemaybeaccepted,itamountedinherdaytoabigotryasimplacableasthatofthestraitestsectoftheScotchPresbyteriansagenerationago.Cortambretspeaksas"crowningherreputation,"andasreceivingalmostaswarmawelcomeinFranceasinEngland.Herplotsaresimple,andherincidentsnatural.DuringsuchconvulsionsofNatureafeelingoftranquiljoyalwayscomesoverme."Takecare,"hesaid,"youdonotcomeintocollisionwiththeShillooks,whoaremyswornenemies,andtheenemiesofallwhocrosstheirfrontiers.Herdressforthenightwasachemiseofsilkandcotton,awhitequiltedjacket,ashortpelisse,aturbanonherhead,andakefféyahtiedunderherchininthesamemanneraswhenshewasup,withashawloverthebackofherheadandshoulders.Weobservedthatthegulfsyawnedwidewhichinthemorningwehadcrosseduponthesnowthatcoveredthem;fortheaspectofthesemountainschangeswithatrulyextraordinaryrapidity.Wewereinthebosomofanimmensewilderness,facetofacewithHeavenandthewondersofNature.RoyaltypaymentsshouldbeclearlymarkedassuchandsenttotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationattheaddressspecifiedinSection4,"InformationaboutdonationstotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation."-Youprovideafullrefundofanymoneypaidbyauserwhonotifiesyouinwriting(orbye-mail)within30daysofreceiptthats/hedoesnotagreetothetermsofthefullProjectGutenberg-tmLicense.Sheinvitedhimtovisithergarden—asanctuaryintowhichtheprofanumvulguswereneverallowedtopenetrate.Songandlaughtersoonbrokeforthagain,provokedbyourstrangefashionoftravelling."Asforthefurnitureofthesummer-saloon,itconsistsofaleaping,shiningfountaininthecentre,towhich[Pg53]areadded,whencircumstancesrequireit,cushionsandmattressesonwhichtositorrecline.Fifteenmilesmoreovergreatridges,alongpassesdarkwithshadow,andsonarrowthatwehadtorideinthebedsofthestreamswhichhadexcavatedthem,roundthebasesofcolossalpyramidsofrockcrestedwithpines,upintofairupland'parks'scarletinpatcheswiththepoisonoak,parkssobeautifullyarrangedbynaturethatImomentarilyexpectedtocomeuponsomestatelymansion;butthatafternoon,crestedbluejaysandchipmonkshadthemalltothemselves.Youarealoneupontheboundlessocean,farfromallhumanaid,andfeelmorethaneverthatyourlifedependsupontheMostHighalone.Twoyearsafterwards,sheplacedherselfattheheadofasmallassociationofladieswhoseobjectitwastovisittheprisonsofStockholm,andprocureanameliorationoftheconditionoftheprisoners,aswellastoassist,ontheirdischarge,thosewhoseemedanxioustoembarkonanhonestcareer.ItwasintheearlydaysofAugust,1859,thatshelandedatAthens;intheearlydaysofJune,1860,shearrivedatVenice.AllatonceIheardanextraordinarynoiseinthecourt.FromthatmomentmysoulwaslostinthethoughtofHisincomprehensiblepower.Roundtheloins,ratherthanthewaist,acashmereshawlislooselywraptasagirdle,andanembroideredjacket,oralargesilkrobewithlooseopensleeves,completesthecostume.Herbedwaswithoutcurtainsormosquitonet.Theprospectovertheextensiveplain,thegleamingstraits,andthecliffsoftheislandofEubœa,isfullofinspiration.Theplantsshootupwithmarvellousrapidity,andglitterwithflowersoftheraresthuesandshapes,orbearquantitiesoflusciousfruit,pleasanttotheeyeandsweettothetaste.LaterIlearnedthatthisisalwaysthesafestroute,andneverleadsoneintodanger.Thejoltingisalmostintolerable.Surely,neverbeforewaswhistplayedintheMongoliandeserts!"Beforeaccompanyingourtravellersintothesedeserts,itmaybeconvenientthatweshouldnotethepersonneloftheirfollowing,andtheorganizationoftheirexpedition.Pianoforte-playing,amongstotherthings,seemedanoccupationsoinappropriateanduncongenial,thattoescapethoseodious"exercises"—whichthousandsofgirls,bytheway,havefoundequallydistasteful—shewouldfrequentlycutandwoundherfingersseverely.ForNapoleon,astheconquerorofhercountry,sheentertainedanintensefeelingofhatred.Shestillcontinuedherphilanthropiclabours,andlookedforwardconfidentlytoanoldageofusefulness,hallowedbytheloveofsufferinghumanityandbrightenedbyimplicitconfidenceinthemercyandmeeksubmissiontothewillofGod.As,owingtothethicknessoftheice,itisimpossibletodiggraves,anumberofenormousstoneshad,inprimitivefashion,beenheapedoverthecoffin-lids,soastoformadefenceagainsttheattacksofwildbeasts;butthestoutlimbsof"thegreatmaninthepelisse"(astheNorwegianfisherspicturesquelycallthepolarbear)hadremovedthestonesanddevastatedthetombs;athrongofbonesstrewedtheshore,halfbrokenandgnawed...WeregrettoaddthatMadamedeBourboulondidnotlongsurviveherreturnhome;shediedatthechâteauofClaireau,inLoiret,onthe11thofNovember,1865,attheearlyageof37.And,indeed,beforetheendoftheyear,MadamedeHellclaspedherbabetoherbosom,andsetouttojoinherhusband.Atsunriseonthesecondmorning,thevoyagersfirstcaughtsightofthecoastofthatgloomypeninsulawhichtheancientsstigmatizedasinhospitable,inallusiontothecruelcustomofitsinhabitantstomassacreeverystrangerwhoseill-fortuneledhimthither.[Pg100]ThewoesofOrestes,asdepictedbytheGreekpoet,haveforevermadetheTaurisfamous.Seatedonthesnow,weallowedourselvestoslideeasilydownthosesteepswhichwehadsopainfullyclimbed,eventotheverybrinkoftheprecipices,whichwehadcrossedonaladderinsteadofbridge.Thelatterwasnowhove-to,underfullsail,anoccasionalpuffofsmokealonebetrayingthepresenceofthedemonofdestructionwithin."Yououghttobeveryfondofyourhusband,"saidtheprincesstotheblindwoman.ThegeniusofVictorHugo,sovast,soelevated,andsoprofound,shecouldnotunderstand;shecouldsee[Pg394]onlyitsirregularities,likeacertain"æsthete"who,whencontemplatingthewater-floodsofNiagara,directedhisattentiontoasupposeddefectintheircurve!Hermethodical,matter-of-factmindwaswhollyunabletomeasuretheproportionsofthegiganticgeniusoftheauthorof"NôtreDame,"andhenceshedischargesathimavolleyofdenunciatoryepithets,borrowedalwaysfromtheseverestclassicstyle—"thechampionofvice,""thechroniclerofsin,""thehistorianofshameandmisery."Shecouldnotbelievethatinallhiswritingsitwaspossibletodiscoverasinglehonourable,innocent,andwholesomethought.Letusturntotheprincess'sdiscriminativestatementoffacts.ItisnotsotrueorsothoroughlyclearandharmoniousamongdelineationsofEnglishmiddle-classgentilityasMissAusten'sbooks,especiallyas'PrideandPrejudice,'whichIthinkexquisite."WhiletravellingontheContinent,inthespringof1838,MissMartineauwasseizedwithaveryseriousillness.Theyoungshootsarecrimson,andwhenseenagainstthebluesky,thesunshinegleamingthroughthem,thetreeseemscoveredwithgorgeousblossom.Wearetoldthattheyoungnovelisthaddeterminednottomixinsocietyoracceptanyinvitations,buttoliveinretirement,anddevelopherselfforwhatshenowconsideredtobehermissionandhervocation,namely,tobecomeanauthoress;and,enrichedbyexperienceoftheworld,todevotehertalentsinadoublemeasuretothecomfortandassistanceofthesufferingandunhappy.Throughthe[Pg194]differentNilevillagestheexpeditiontouchedat,shelovedtoride,followedbyanarmedescort,dazzlingthenativesbyherfairyoungbeautyandsplendourofappearance,amazingthembyherlavishliberality,andreceivingfromthemthehomageduetoasupposeddaughteroftheSultan.Shehadneitherwatch,clock,nortimepiece;andwhenherphysicianaskedherwhyshehadneverpurchasedone,asathingsoessentialtogoodorderinahousehold,shereplied,"BecauseIcannotbearanythingthatisunnatural;thesunisfortheday,andthemoonandstarsforthenight,andbythemIliketomeasuretime."Awoodenstoolbyherbedsideservedforatable,anduponitstoodavarietyofthingstosatisfyanysuddenwantorfancy;suchasalittlestrawberrypreserveinasaucer,lemonade,chamomiletea,ipecacuanhalozenges,abottleofcoldwater.Youmaycopyit,giveitawayorre-useitunderthetermsoftheProjectGutenbergLicenseincludedwiththiseBookoronlineatwww.gutenberg.org1.E.2.IfanindividualProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkisderivedfromthepublicdomain(doesnotcontainanoticeindicatingthatitispostedwithpermissionofthecopyrightholder),theworkcanbecopiedanddistributedtoanyoneintheUnitedStateswithoutpayinganyfeesorcharges.Itsstreetsarecleanandtolerablybroad;ineachalittlerivuletiscarriedunderground,withopeningsatregularintervalsgivingaccesstothewater.OurbusinessinthesepagesiswithMrs.Theirmodeofpreparingteawouldnotcommenditselftothedenizensof[Pg81]Mayfair.Itisofmarble;agreatbronzedooradmitstotheinterior.Hislavishhospitalityembracedeverybody;notonlythetravellersbuttheirattendants.Ienterafashionableshop:themasterisanattylittleoldman,hisnosearmedwithformidablespectacleswhichdobutpartlyconcealhisdull,malignanteyes.Sakiisakindofspirit,distilledfromrice,alwaysdrunkhotoutofsmallcups.Afterleavingtheplainofsnow[Pg40]weascendedasteepanddifficultincline.Lethim,beneaththesacredcolonnadesonthehills,orintheshadeoftheclassicgrovesinthevalleys,listenanewtothedivinePlato,enjoythegrapesofthevalesofAthéné,thefigsfromthenativevillageofSocrates,honeyfromthethyme-scentedhillsofHymettusandCithæron,feedtheglanceandthemind,thesoulandthebody,dailywiththatold,ever-youngbeauty—thatwhichwas,andthatwhichnowspringsuptonewlife,andhewillberestoredtohisusualvigourofhealth;or,dying,willthankGodthat[Pg179]theearthcanbecomeavestibuletotheFather'shomeabove.'"[15]"IshallsoonleaveGreece,"shewrites;butthecharmofHellasprovedtoopowerfulforher,andshespentnearlyayearinvisitingitsmemorableplaces.JohnBullisatleastforty,whileJonathanisnotyettwenty-one.HereasmallgrottohadbeenexcavatedintheiceinwhichIwasbiddentorestmyself,thoroughlywellwrappedup.AsforsomeyearsamarkeddiminutionhadtakenplaceinthenumberofelephantsinhabitingthevalleyoftheWhiteNile,theivorytradershadgraduallypushedforwardintothelandswateredbytheGazelleandtheDjur.Havingacquiredatolerableknowledgeofthelanguage,customs,andmannersofthepeople,LadyHesterorganizedanumerouscaravan,andproceededtovisiteverypartofSyria.ItisaterrestrialElysium,wheregreatladiesandprinces,courtiersandgenerals,lookoutuponnonebutagreeableimages,selectedfromallthatischarminginartandnature.Igavehimmyletterofintroduction,whichheimmediatelycarriedtohismother,andsoonafterwards,returning,hetoldme,tomygreatdelight,thatshewouldreceivemewhenshehadcompletedhertoilette.Thecrackingofthewoodwork,thedarkness,thenoiseofwatersdashingthroughthedecayedfloorthatbentandtrembledundertheirtread,andthecriesofalarmutteredeverymomentbythecoachmanandtheCossackmightwellhavefilleduswithapprehension;yetIdonotthinkthatthethoughtofdeatheveroccurred,or,rather,mymindwastooconfusedtoformulateanythoughtatall.MadamedeHellreferstoParthenit,wherestillflourishesthegreathazelunderwhichthePrincedeLignewrotetothemodernMessalina,CatherineII.;Gaspra,theresidenceforsomeyearsofMadamedeKrudener,thebeautifulmysticandreligiousenthusiastwhoexercisedsopowerfulaninfluenceovertheCzarAlexander;[Pg114]Koreis,theretreatofthePrincessGalitzin,thesoulofsomanystrangepoliticalintrigues,andafterwardsoneoftheassociatesofMadamedeKrudener,andthesmallvillaontheseashore,nearDelta,beneaththeroofofwhichdied,in1823,thesoi-disantCountessGuacher,nowknowntohavebeennoneotherthanthenotoriousMadamedeLamotte,whofiguredinthestrangeromantichistoryof"TheDiamondNecklace,"andasanaccompliceofCagliostrowaswhippedinthePlacedeGrève,andbrandedonbothshoulderswithaVforVoleuse,Thief.[8]AtSoudagh,avalleynearOulou-Ouzon,MadamedeHellvisitedoneofthemostremarkablewomenofhertime,MademoiselleJacquemart,ofwhomalongbutnotwhollyaccuratebiographicalsketchappearsintheDucdeRaguse's"ExcursionenCrimée."Fewwomenhavehadamoreeccentriccareer.Themanufactureofbutteratthisvillagewasconductedonprimitiveprinciples.Thatmorning,thirty-sevenservantshadwatchedeverymotionofhereye;itsspelloncedarkenedbydeath,everyonefledwithsuchplunderastheycouldsecure.[Pg167]Itwasinthespringof1859thatMissBremersetoutfortheEast.Theyparriedtheiradversary'sblowsaslongastheycouldwiththeirparasols,butthesedidnotlongavail;MadamePfeiffer'sbrokeinthestruggle,leavingonlyafragmentofthehandleinherhand."'Oh,'sheexclaims,'yeoldemperorsoftheancientdynasties,ifanyofyourseerscouldbuthavetoldyouthatonedaythebarbariansoftheremoteWest,whosedespisednamehadscarcelyreachedyourears,wouldcometodisturbthepeaceofyourmaneswiththeclinkingoftheirglassesandthereportoftheirchampagnecorks!'...Butforallthatherenjoymentwasnottheless,andshesawmuchwhich,hadshetravelledintheusualfashion,shewouldnothaveseen.WheneverIstoppedtolookataview,oneofthegirlswouldcomebehindmeandthrowaleiofflowersovermyhead,fastenitroundmyneck,andthenrunawaylaughing,toadistance,tojudgeofeffect."Theireagercuriositydidnotfailtobecomeveryinconvenient,andwecouldwellhavedispensedwiththe20,000quidnuncswhoaccompanieduseverywhere.ThelatterwasastallasAlmer,butdidnotseemsoready.Itseemedtoherthatallmenmustbeclassedintheorderwhichitwasgoodforthemtohold;andthateverythingwouldbethrownintothegreatestconfusioniftheywerecastdowninordertoberaisedupagain,andthustheywereperpetuallyhurledfromsidetoside;withallthis,sopowerlessinthemselves,andsocompletelygovernedbychance!Shefelthumbledbythesightofhumanweakness,andturnedhereyesfromthemonarchtomeditateontheinsignificanceofmen.Thewholefigureispicturesque—artisticineffect;towhichalsothecostume—theredcardinalstockings,thelargesilverbuckles,theshortsilkcloak,andtheredcap—contributeinnosmalldegree.Thelipsofthemenarethickandfleshy,butthewomen,particularlythoseofthehigherclasses—the"whitebones,"astheyarecalled—haveheart-shapedmouthsofmorethanordinarybeauty.Mr.Moore,theEnglishconsulatBeyrout,onhearingthatshewasstricken,rodeacrossthemountainstovisither,accompaniedbyMr.Thompson,theAmericanmissionary.Thecountrythroughwhichtheypassedpresentedsceneuponsceneofaninterestingorattractivecharacter.Theprincess,awomanapparentlybetweenfive-and-thirtyandfortyyearsofage,wasbynomeansfittedtosustaintheCircassianreputationforbeauty.AllaroundusIsawdeepbedsofsnow,butnowheresuchblocksoficeasM.Myheart,oppressed,feltitsinfluence,asmygazerestedupontheSwissplainhalfhiddeninthemistsofthesurroundingmountains,whichwerebathedingoldenvapours.Howevermuchhemightbepushedabout,orpowdered,itmatterednot;heonlygazedthroughhisopera-glass,andbowedallthemore,andneverlosthisself-possession.Accordingtotheordinarywayoftheworld,nearlyallourfriends,fromthemomentthattheysawourcauselost,abandonedus,andthemajority,toavoidallsuspicionofhavinghadashareintheconspiracy,insistedonourcondemnationwithevenmorebitternessthanourenemiesthemselves.SilenceandTwilighthere,twin-sisters,keepTheirnoondaywatch,andsailamongtheshadesLikevaporousshapeshalfseen;—andtheforestispeopledwiththephantomsthatarebornofSilenceandTwilight.CrowdsofraggedladswereloiteringabouttheCorso,shoutingastheyfollowedanylaughably-attiredmask.Lambretnextheldupagoldpieceofeightyfrancsvalue,andplaceditinthehandsoftheministerwhohadintroducedthem.Trollopepreservestwootherwords,whichfirstroseintopopularityin1835—thewordsrococoanddécousu.Nynäswasanold-fashionedmansionsituatedamidstpicturesquescenery,whichappearstohaveawakenedinFrederikaherfirstimpressionsofthebeautyofNature.Hishairwasgrowinggrey,hiseyelidswererimmedwithablood-colouredborder.Somedaysafterthissadevent,MissTinnéascendedtherivertoHeiligenkreuz,anAustrianmissionarystation.Elephantswanderfreelyinthefertileuplands,comingdowntotheriveratevening-timetodrink.Theirpicturesquecostumeconsistedoftightpantaloons,andashorttunic,whichwasbeltedroundthewaist,andhadcartridgepocketsworkedonthebreast;aroundlacedcap,encircledwithablackorwhiteborderoflong-wooledsheepskin,formedtheirhead-gear.ThenceitransouthwardtotheRiverPlate,skirtedthePatagonianshores,and,threadingitswaythroughthedefilesoftheMagellanStrait,emergedintotheSouthernOcean.ThesiteselectedforGovernmentHouseisacommandingone,lookingoverriver,plain,town,mountain,andwhatwereonceforests....Theyresideinaspacioushallofstone,buttheatmosphere,itmustbeowned,teemswithodoursthatarenotSabæan.TheyengagedtheattentionofthepoetFrauzon,whowasfrequentlypresentatthejuvenileperformances,andbyhisadvicehelpedtoformtheyoungdramatist'staste,andcorrectherjudgment.AGreekmerchantsoughtherhand;herparentsrefusedhimonthescoreofheryouth.Alexina,however,wasnottobemovedfromherdetermination;butasthesteamerwasinneedofrepair,shesentitbacktoKhartûminchargeofheraunt.Itliftsthesummitofitspyramidalmassoutofawealthofluxuriantvegetation,whichsweepsdowntotheverymarginofaseaasblueastheskyaboveit.Thereaderwillunderstandwithwhatsatisfactionweagaintookourplacesinthecarriage.PuttingasideitscrudenotionsofEgyptology,anditswildspeculationsonreligioustopics,wemustbepreparedtoadmireitsfreshandfinely-colouredwordpictures,theglowandpowerofwhicharesurprising.Unfortunately,thedelightfulvisiondisappearedlikeadream.Here,too,thepine-applefrequentlyattainstheweightoffourpounds.Theseheflungintoaheapofgrassanddryleavespreviouslycollected,andswungthewholeseveraltimesroundintheairuntilitignited.Atthebottomwestepontoasurfaceofcoldboiledlava,andevenhere,ineverychinkwherealittlesoilhascollected,Natureassertsherrobustvitality,anddelicatelittlefernsputforththeirgreenfrondstofeelthelight.Wewerestreamingwithperspiration,butourgaietyincreased,insteadofdiminishing,withthedangers.ThesmallcaravanwithwhichMissBremertravelledincludedaRussianprincess,twoboyars,andsomeEnglishmen;amongotherstherewasaprofessorwithacynicalsmileandasarcasticwit,whopossessedahappyfacultyofdescribing,inepigrammaticphraseandalwaysattherightmoment,themorenoticeablefeaturesofthemannersofthenatives.But,inplaintruth,therulingmotivewaspride,acolossal,anall-absorbingpride,whichcouldbesatisfiedonlybypowerandinfluence,andaforemostplace.TheislesandshoresoftheMediterranean,[Pg68]withtheirmyriadcharmsandgrandhistoricassociations:—"Thatgreatmid-seathatmoanswithmemories,"[4]loosenedhergenius,sotospeak,andstimulatedhertoclotheherfeelingsandsentimentsinametricalform."AtsomeverstsfromtheDon,"continuesMadamedeHell,"ourunluckystarthrewusintothehandsofadrunkendriver,who,afterlosinghisway,andjoltingusoverditchesandploughedfields,actuallybroughtusbackinsightofthedreadfulbridge,thethoughtofwhichstillmadeusshudder.ShepaidavisittoaKalmukprince,PrinceTumene,andfoundherselfinthemidstofanewworld.Uponaheightneartheshorewasgroupedamassofhousesofgreystone,withlowcupolaroofs.ButonChristmasDay,1865,shecaughtcoldatchurch,andinflammationofthelungssupervenedwithaseverityshehadnotstrengthenoughtoresist.TheSerai,orpalace,issituatedinthecentreofthetown;itisenclosedwithinwallsandamoat,andfillstheheartofavalley,whichissurroundedbyirregularheights."Turningtotheleft,weenteredastreetwhichIwillcall,inallusiontothetradeofitsinhabitants,theToymen's....Isalutethegiantess,thegreatSchmadribach,themotheroftheLutschineriver,andreturn.Theydeafenedmewiththeiryells....ThentheCossacksprangin,andawaytheywentatasmartgallop.Thecolouroftheirskinisacopper-brown.Aroundher,crouchingontheirheels,werearrangedsometwentywomeninfulldress.MadamePfeiffer'sexperiencesonthisjourneywerenewandinteresting.HereMadamedeBaluseckpartedcompany.IntheyoungPrincessMorosi,thedaughteroftheAgaAssaki,afterwardsmarriedtoEdgarQuinet,MadamedeHelllearnedtoknowandloveacharmingwitandararebeautifulnature.Theguideshadhardlystrengthenoughtoclearapath,sorudewastheacclivityandsodensethesnow.Onthe21stofMay,1856,sheoncemoretookupherpilgrim'sstaff.Informedofthiscircumstance,theMarseillaiserepairedtotheCadi,andbeggedhimtoacquaintherwithitscontents.Beyond,wallbeyondwallofsimilarconstruction,andrangeaboverange,roseintothebluesky.Arichgrowthoftropicalvegetationencumberedtheshore,stretchingdowntotheveryborderoftheribbedsands;palmsandcocoa-nutsliftedhightheirslender,shapelytrunks;whileinandoutflittedthepicturesquefiguresofnativewomeninred,blue,andgreengarments,andofmeninmotleycostumes,loadedwithfish,fowls,andbunchesofcocoa-nuts.ButtheydidnotneglectthevariousaspectsofAustralianscenery,sofarastheycamewithintheirpurview.Sheatonetimeresolvedtofleefromhomeandproceedtothetheatreofwar,whichsheimaginedwouldbeamatterofnodifficulty,and,attiredinmalecostume,tobecomepagetotheCrownPrince(afterwardsKingCharlesXIV.),whothenappearedtoherlittlelessthanademi-god.TheyspeedilymadetheirwaytoKiakhta,wheretheymetwithamosthospitablereception,andweresplendidlyfêted.FromRioJaneiroMadamePfeiffersailedinanEnglishship,theJohnRenwick,onthe9thofSeptember,forValparaiso,thegreatsea-portofChili.HernextpilgrimagewastoclassicGreece,thelandofSolonandLycurgus,PericlesandPisistratus,Æschylus,Sophocles,Euripides,andDemosthenes—thelandofByronandShelley—thelandofpoetryandpatriotism,ofthemythsofgodsandthehistoriesofheroes—thelandwhichArtandNaturehavefondlycombinedtoenrichwiththeirchoicesttreasures.MissBremervisitedthevalleysoftheHighAlpsandtheForestCantons;spentaSundayontheRighi;journeyedtoBasle;passedintoBelgiumandFlanders,surveyingtheantiquitiesoftheoldhistoriccitiesofGhent,Bruges,andAntwerp;proceededtoParis;returningtoSwitzerland,spentthewinteratLausanne;inthefollowingyearcrossedtheAlpsintoItaly,andthroughPiedmonttravelledtotheEternalCity;thencetoNaples,whereshesawaneruptionofVesuviusandtheburiedcityofPompeii;and,finally,exploredthefairlandscapesofSicily.Whilehewasopeningthedoorsandwindows,whichhadbeenkeptclosedsincethefatalcatastrophe,awretchedhalf-starvedlookingdog,shiveringinspiteofthesunshine,crawledoutofacorner,thewonderfulinstinctoftheseanimalshavingmadehimconsciousofthepresenceofhismistress.Shesatintheshade,but,nevertheless,anampleumbrellaofcrimsonsilk—throughouttheEastasignofroyaldignity—washeldoverherhead.HiswidowreturnedtoParistowardsthecloseof1848,socrushedbeneaththecalamitythathadoverthrownherhouseholdgods,that,asshehassinceacknowledged,sheneversleptwithoutthehopethathersleepmightknownowakinginthisworld,butmightprovethemeansofre-unitingherwithherbelovedhusband.But,intruth,shetravelledunderconditionswhichmadeitalmostimpossibleforhertoformanimpartialjudgmentofmenandthings.Mulhall's"BetweentheAmazonandtheAndes,"thoughitdealswitharegionnotbyanymeansfamiliarlyknowneventogeographers,andisundoubtedlyavaluableadditiontotheliteratureofSouthAmericantravel.Come,inspiteofthesomewhatgreenishhueofoursurroundings,lookatthatsoft,gentle,andstillyouthfulcountenance,thosebrillianteyes,thatflowinghair,andtellmeifitbeallinharmonywiththeunattractiveaspectofthescenebeforeyou.""Oh,undoubtedlyIhavenotyetarrivedphysically,"sheansweredwithafaintsmile,"atthisdegreeofoldage,butifyoucouldreadtothebottomofmyheart,youwouldseeitasgloomyandasdesolateasthesechamberswiththeirwantoflightandair."Thebaronessledherguestintoeveryapartment,explainingthedestinationofeachwithfeverishvolubility.HeughlinandSteudnersetout;butthemalariousclimatewasworkingitsevilwilluponthem,andinastateofgreatprostrationfromfeveranddysentery,theytraversedadesertcountry,andcrossingtheriverDjuronthe2ndofApril,arrivedthesameeveningatWan."Suchastormasthis,"saysIdaPfeiffer,"affordsmuchfoodforreflection.Inspiteofthecounselsofprudenceandofatimorousaffection,theintrepidtravellerwouldnotomitanyportionofheritinerary;shetraversedsuccessivelyintoBœotia,Phocis,Ætolia,andthePeloponnesus.Butitwastheear-trumpet,renderednecessarybyherdeafness,whichaffordedthegreatestentertainment.Illasshewas,shehastenedtoembarkonboardashipthatwasonthepointofsailingfortheMauritius;andreachingthatpleasantislandonthe22nd,metwithawarmwelcomefromherfriends—towhom,indeed,shewasasonewhohadbeendeadandwasaliveagain.'OldFritz'hasbeendeadahundredyears;butthecourtofPrussia,undertheruleofFrederickWilliam,isstilltheasylumofbeauxesprits.Andasthesunslowlysank,thepinesstoodoutdarklingagainstthegoldensky,thegreypeakstookupontheircrestsagloryofcrimsonandpurple,aluminousmistofchangingcoloursfilledeveryglen,gorge,andcanyon,whiletheechoessoftlyrepeatedthatpeculiarsoughormurmurwhichaccompaniesthedepartingday.Fromcuriosity,Ioncecountedabundleofpipes,thrownbyafteradayortwo'suse,anyoneofwhichwouldhavefetchedfiveortenshillingsinLondon,andtherewere102.Shediedin1871.Travellingenlargedherhorizon:shewasabletosurvey,asfromawatch-tower,thecourseofgreatpoliticalevents,andshefoundherselfmixingcontinuallywiththemostcelebratedsavantsandstatesmenoftheage.[Pg361]WherevershewentLadyBrasseyseemstohavecommandedspecialattention;partlynodoubtduetoherownpersonalqualities,andpartlytothefactthatEnglishladiesarerarevisitorsinthePolynesianislands—andespeciallyanEnglishlady,thewifeofamemberofparliament,whosailsroundtheworldinherhusband'syacht!LadyBrasseymade,ofcourse,anexcursiontothegreatvolcanoofKilauea,ofwhichMissBirdhasfurnishedasingularlyfinedescription.Theywalk,orrathertotter,throughthestreetsinnumerousgroupsorbands,shodwithyellowslippersorbottines,toenjoyapromenadeoutsidetheJaffaGate."Herbedroom,attheendofeverytwenty-fourhours,wasstrewedwithtobaccoandashes,tobesweptawayandagainstrewedasbefore;anditwasalwaysstronglyimpregnatedwiththefumes.Theyhadabandonedmetomyownresources,probablytojudgeofmyaddress.InacountrylikeAmericasocialquestionschangetheiraspectswithsomuchrapiditythatMissBremer'sopinionsuponthemarealreadyantiquated.Onthe12thofNovembershearrivedatTien-tsin.Themandarinhimself,attendedbyacoupleoffan-bearers,prayedbeforethemiddlealtar.Itwasnotuntilthebeginningof1876thathermentalconditionunderwentanyseriouschange.vonHumboldt'signorancetotheaccountofhispoliteness.[Pg22]"Thekingcomplimentsthehandsomestranger,andRauch,struckbyhergreatbeauty,inquiresofhisfriendwhomaybethisfair,sweetMuse,whogivestothemarblesthetongueofeloquence,who,youngandlovelyasanantiqueVenus,seemsalreadyaswiseandprudentasMinerva.Thenextdaybutone,asshewasreturninginthetwilightfromageologicalexcursion,carryinginherhandasmallhatchetwhichsheusedforbreakingstones,shediscoveredthatthismanwaswalkingbehindherstealthily.AsthevoyagersdrewnearGondokorotheyobservedthatthesceneryassumedagrandercharacter.Andsheimposesuponustheconviction[Pg217]thatsheentereduponherwondrousjourneysfromnoidlevanity,noloveoffame,butfromanaturalloveoftravel,andaboundlessdesireofacquiringknowledge.Thelowerportionoftheplain,whichskirtsthecoast,wasclothedwithabundantharvestsofwheatandrye,whichwavedsoftlyinthewind.Sheacknowledgestohavefeltalittlehesitation,but,withoutsayingaword,stepped"onboard."Herguidetooktothewaterlikeaduck,andpropelledthecrazycraft,which,however,madethetransitofthelake,andbackagain,withoutaccident.Thiswastoogoodanopportunitytobeneglected:the[Pg207]boatmenimmediatelyattackedtheill-fatedanimal,killedit,andcutitinpieces.TothisvigoroussporttheHawaiiansareexceedinglypartial.Assoonasthenecessaryrepairswerecompleted,MadameTinnéquittedKhartûm.OurtravelersenteredBourgaltaïintheevening,simultaneouslywiththecaravanofcamels,whichhadstartedafortnightbefore,andwerelodgedinasqualidandfilthyinn.LetusborrowafewpassagesfromtheconversationsinwhichMrs.LetusnowglanceatoneortwoofthepersonalexperiencesofMissBird,who,weneedhardlysay,carriedinherbosomaman'sheart,andwasneverwantingincourageorresolution.OsmanAga,aresoluteandcourageoussoldier,whowasonthedeckofthesteameratthetime,seizedanotherropeandspranginstantlyintotheriver.HerfatherseemstohavebeenoneofthoseindividualswhomFortunetossestoandfrowithpertinaciousill-humour;moreover,hehadsomethingofthenomadinhistemperament,andwithoutanyrealorsufficientmotive,movedfromplacetoplace,entailinguponhisyoungfamilysuddenandburdensomejourneys.Shewieldsaskilfulbrushwithforceandfreedom;herpicturesarealwaysaccurateincompositionandfullofcolour.[Pg125]Herlateryearshaveshownnodecayofherresoluteandactivespirit.Agreaterappearanceofcomfortwasobservableintheprincess'sapartmentthaninherhusband's,asmightwellbethecase.Onthisoccasionthewidow,aremarkablyhandsomewoman,apparentlyaboutthirty,seemsreallytohavebeenawillingvictim,andbehavedwiththeutmostcomposure.Sheenterstheparlourappropriatedforthemeeting,andfindssevenotherladies,verylikeherself,andtakesherplaceamongthem;shepresentshercontribution,whichisacceptedwithagentlecircularsmile,andherparingsofbroad-cloth,herendsofribbon,hergiltpaper,andherminikinpins,areaddedtotheparingsofbroad-cloth,theendsofribbon,thegiltpaper,andtheminikinpinswithwhichthetableisalreadycovered;shealsoproducesfromherbasketthreeready-madepin-cushions,fourink-wipers,sevenpapermatches,andapaste-boardwatch-case;thesearewelcomedwithacclamations,andtheyoungestladypresentdepositsthemcarefullyonshelves,amidaprodigiousquantityofsimilararticles.Despitetheseefforts,ProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks,andthemediumonwhichtheymaybestored,maycontain"Defects,"suchas,butnotlimitedto,incomplete,inaccurateorcorruptdata,transcriptionerrors,acopyrightorotherintellectualpropertyinfringement,adefectiveordamageddiskorothermedium,acomputervirus,orcomputercodesthatdamageorcannotbereadbyyourequipment.WhenIwasalittlerested,Iseatedmyselfinmylitter,andabouthalf-pastsixintheeveningwearrivedatthetownofTchaing-ping-tchan."OnthefollowingdayourtravellersturnedasidetovisitthefamoussepulchreoftheMings—avastcollectionofmonuments,whichtheChineseregardasoneofthefinestspecimensoftheartoftheseventeenthcentury—thatis,theseventeenthcenturyoftheirchronology.Thatawomanofhighbirth,andrank,andwealth,thenieceofonegreatministerandthekinswomanofanother,shoulddeliberatelyrenouncetheadvantagesofherposition,wasacircumstanceunintelligibletoordinaryminds,andthenceforthshesharedwithLordByronthecuriosityandspeculationofthepublic.FortheastuteSouthernersgotholdofher,fêtedher,complimentedher,readherworks;howcouldsheretainherimpartialitywhenbroughtundersuchpowerfulinfluences?"Theprospect,whichembracedthewholevalley,wasmagnificent."Aprettylittleblue-eyedgirlofsevenwastheonlychild,"saysMissMartineau,"wesaw.Theloveofpower,however,wasstillstrongwithinher,andasherworldlyauthorityslippedaway,sheendeavouredtoreplaceitbyaspiritual.Afterboilingitforaconsiderabletimeinwater,theyaddmilk,butter,andsalt.Mostofourreaderswillbefamiliarwiththeexcitingstoryofvoyagesroundtheworld;withthatfamouscircumnavigationbyMagellan,whichfirstfoundanocean-waybetweentheWestandtheEast,andcarriedafurrowacrossthebroadwatersofthePacific;thatscarcelylessfamouscircumnavigationofDrake's,whichmadetheEnglishflagknownonthesouthernseas;thatgreatvoyageofCook's,whichaddedsomanylands,hithertounknown,tothemapoftheinhabitedglobe,downtolatercircumnavigations,accomplishedforscientificobjectsbyshipsequippedwiththemostperfectappliances.Theyhavealsoanextraordinaryfacultyfortracingtheirwaythroughthepathlesswildernesses.ItcomestothemfromChinaintheshapeofveryhardbricks,composedoftheleavesandcoarsestportionsoftheplant.TrollopereturnedtoEngland,withtheworldtobeginagain,ahusbandincapacitatedforworkbyill-health,andchildrenwhoneededaid,andweretooyoungtogiveany."Wehadtowaituntileighto'clockbeforetakingourdeparture.Postanshascollectedinreferencetothemodeoflife,thereligion,andtheoldformsofsocietyandgovernmentinoneofthenorth-westernprovincesofIndia,underthetitleof"Cutch."ItincludesaveryanimatedaccountofaSuttee,thatcruelmodeofcompulsoryself-sacrificewhichtheBritishGovernmenthassinceprohibited.Thesegreatbones,bleachedbytimeandpreservedintactbythefrost,seemedsomanyskeletonsofgiants—thepastdwellersinacitywhichhadfinallybeenswallowedupbythesea.WemustresumeournarrativeofMadamedeHell'sjourney.Nothinghadoccurredofspecialinterestduringherabsence,exceptthatononeoccasion,whenAlexinawasreadingatashortdistancefromthecamp,shehadanarrowescapefromayoungpanther.Acarefulinvestigationwasnowmade,andthenitwasdiscoveredthatthepilotandcaptainhadeachagreedtoboreaholeintheship'shull,inthehopeofabruptlyterminatingavoyagewhichthey,notlessthantheir[Pg206]crew,regardedwithdread.Theflocksthatswarmoverthepasturesoftenincludesomethousandsofsheep,thoughtheyareneverkilledbythenativesforpurposesoffood.MadamedeHelltellsusthatoftenwhenshecouldseenothingbutapointonthehorizon,theywouldclearlymakeoutahorsemanarmedwithlanceandgun.Papadopouloshasoftenreferredtomypassionateloveofhistoryeveninmyearlychildhood.Inourlimitedspaceitwouldbeimpossibleforustofollowupverycloselyavoyagewhichcoveredsolargeapartoftheworld'ssurface;norisitnecessary,since[Pg347]LadyBrassey'scharminglywrittennarrativeisnowwellknowntoeveryreader;butweshallpermitourselvesthepleasureofseeing,asLadyBrasseysaw,apicturehereandthereofbeautifulsceneryorforeignmanners,thatwemayjudgeoftheimpressionitproducedonsoaccomplishedanobserver.Shedesired,hersistertellsus,thatwomen,likemen,andtogetherwiththem,shouldbeallowedtostudyintheelementaryschoolsandattheacademies,inordertogainopportunitiesofsecuringemploymentandsituationssuitableforthemintheserviceoftheState.Insteadofwhitetrouserssomeaffectbrown,butthesearebynomeanspicturesque;theylooklikesackswithtwoholesfortheinsertionofthefeet—thesaidfeetbeingencasedinredoryellowleatherboots,withhugeironheels;orinshoesofcoarsewhitewool,adornedwiththreetassels.ThearrivalofsomevastcaravansfromtheSaharawhileshewasonayachting[Pg213]voyageatTripoli,firedherimaginationanewwithvisionsofAfricandiscovery.Thepairofwidowswereelderlywomen,asmerryasgirls,andquiteattheirease.Atfirst,onherreturnhome,shespokeofhertravellingdaysasover,andrepresentedherself,attheageoffifty-one,asdesirousonlyofpeaceandrepose.Biselli,itwassoondiscovered,ownedalmosteverythinginthevillage,andlordeditovertheentireneighbourhood.Iallowedmyselftobetempted,andpurchasedabluesilkpelisse,linedwithwhitewool;thiswool,assoftandfineassilk,comesfromthecelebratedraceoftheOng-tisheep.Sheyieldednothing,eithertotheoldagewhichwascreepinguponher,orthedesertionoftheungratefulwretcheswhohadprofitedsolargelybyhergenerosity.Atteno'clockatnight,whentheywerestillatsomedistancefromtheDon,theywereinformedthatthebridgeacrossitwasinadangerouscondition,andthatprobablytheywouldbecompelledtowaittillthenextdaybeforetheycouldcross.Wefolloweditscourseallnight,catchingaglimpseofitfromtimetotimebythefaintglimmerofthestars,andbythelightsofthefishermen'slanternsflashinghereandtherealongitsbanks.Jonathanhasa[Pg151]goodheartalso,butdoesnothideit.TheirferocityofdispositionisproverbialintheEast.And,again,itmustbeadmittedthatsheisoftenvulgar;whateverthewantofrefinementinAmericansociety,itisalmostparalleledbythewantofrefinementinherlively,butcoarsely-colouredpages.ItissaidtohaveproducedagreaterimpressionthaneventhebookuponFrance;andasatolerablyaccuraterepresentationofthemoralandpoliticalconditionofItalyattheperiodoftheBourbonrestoration,ithasstillsomevalue.LadyBarkerlooksatthings,ofcourse,withawoman'seye,andthiswomanlinessisoneofthecharmsofherbooks.BelongingtoawealthyEnglishgentleman,shewasrichlyappointed,andfittedupwithaluxurioussplendourwhichwouldhavedrivenwildwithenvyandadmirationtheearliercircumnavigators.Itisabeautifulbuilding,withitsdoublerowofcolumns,bas-reliefs,androofallperfect,andnowcontainsaninterestingcollectionofantiquities,gatheredfromitsimmediateneighbourhood.Itconsistsofastrongmid-ribabouteightfeetlong,which,attheendnexttothetree,spreadsoutverymuchasyourtwoclenchedfists,placedsidebyside,dofromyourwrists.Formerlytheverystonesofthecourthadbreathedoflife,andsunshine,andyouth;formerlythatpoordoghadbeenbrightandwell-favoured,andashappyasareallthingsthatareloved.Growingrapidlyfeeble,shewasconveyedtoVienna,tothehouseofherbrother,CharlesReyer;and,forafewdays,itseemedasiftheinfluenceofhernativeairwouldactasarestorative.WhenforthefirsttimeIsetfootinoneofthesesupposedcharmingnooks,Iwasshocked;butthemistressesofthehousedetectednothing.But,beitlittleorbeitmuch,hedividesitintotwolots,andslingshisparcelsorbasketsfromalightbamboopolewhichrestsacrosshisshoulder,and,lightasitis,oftenweighsmorethanthetriflessuspendedfromit;perhapsafewshrimpsinagreenleafareslungfromoneend,andalobsterfromtheother,or,itmaybe,atinybasketofnew-laideggsbalancedbyhalfadozensilveryfishes.Beforeitappeared,Iwasonfoot.Theaireveryinstantgrewmorerarefied;mymouthwasdry;Isufferedfromthirst,andtoquenchitswallowedmorselsofsnowandkirsch-wasser,theveryodourofwhichbecameatlastinsupportable,thoughIwassometimescompelledtodrinkitbytheimperativeordersoftheguides.Onrowsofwoodenpillarsrestsaflatroof,fromwhichhangglasslamps,lustres,artificialflowers,andbrightly-colouredribbons.Mypresenceofmindreturned;IhadanintuitionofthedangerwhichIhadescaped,andIdiscoveredthattheanimationofourhorseswasnotduetothecharmofgreenpasture,buttofear,thefearofbeingswallowedupalive.Andinthedepthofthatendlesswinter'snightsheheardlamentingvoicesfromtheeastandfromthewest,fromplantandanimal,fromdyingnatureanddespairinghumanity;shesawlifewithallitsbeauty,itslove,itsthrobbingheart,buriedalivebeneathachillcoveringofice."Inthesummerof1831shepaidavisit,whichextendedoveratwelvemonth,toarecentlymarriedsister,thensettledatChristianstadt.Andassuredlythemoralistwho,commentingonthedisastrouseffectofthispassion,shouldneedanillustrationtopointhismoralandadornhistale,couldfindnonemorestrikingthanLadyHesterStanhope'scareeraffords.Hourafterhourpassedaway,andstill,withthehotsunoverhead,androundherthesolitudeofthedesert,sherodeonward.Asthetravellerscarriedwiththemalargestockofprovisions,andfreshmeatcouldgenerallybeobtainedfromthenomadshepherds,theirtablewaswellserved;butowingtotheabsolutedearthofanyotherkindoffuel,theywerecompelledtokindletheirfireswithargols,ordriedcow-dung.Afterdinnercamecoffee,amouthfulofbrandy,andthebill.ItisonlyoftheoutwardaspectofthingsthatLadyBrasseyspeaks,forshesawnoneother,andassuredlyatTahitithatisfairexceedingly,andwellcalculatedtocharmacultivatedtaste,tofillarefinedmindwithmemoriesofbeauty.Asformyself,Iwastoomuchdisturbedtobeabletoutteraword;IfeltasifIshouldswoon,andreturnedhomehastily.AsM.Thisprofusionwas,however,notwhollywithoutcalculation.Asfortheyemshik,hepickedhimselfupverycomposedly,andclimbedintohisseatagainasifnothingunusualhadbefallenhim.Ontheseplanks,whichslopedslightlytowardsthefoot,wasspreadamattress,sevenfeetlongandaboutfourandahalffeetbroad.AfterrestingforsomeweeksatBerber,MissTinnéagainhiredtheirboats,andascendedtheNiletoKhartûm,thechieftownoftheEgyptianSoudan.Themotivesbywhichtravellersareactuatedareasvariousastheirtemperaments;somefindthe"propellingpower"intheimpulseofcuriosity,someinthethirstfornovelty;othersinastrongandgenuineloveofknowledge;others,again,inanaturalimpatienceofinaction,orarebellionagainstthecommonplacesandconventionalitiesofsociety,ayearningaftertheromanticandadventurous.[Pg302]LADYHESTERSTANHOPE.Everybodydidhomagetothebrightandgenerousauthorof"LaNationalitéHellénique,"—theliberalandzealousadvocateoftherights,themanners,thecharacter,andthefutureofGreece.Thatisenough.Attenshemeditatedanelaboratepoemonnolessasubjectthan"TheCreationoftheWorld."Butherattentionwassoonturnedtomore[Pg135]practicalthemes,anditisnoticeablethateveninthisearlyspringtimeshebegantothinkmuchuponthedependentandsubordinatepositiontowhichwomanhasbeensounjustlycondemnedbysociety.Strangetosay,shelivedfortwentyyearslonger;theDamocles'swordsuspendedoverherheadforboretofall,andassoonasherhealthwastosomeextentre-establishedsheresumedherliterarylabours.ShewasabouttwelvewhenherfathertookuphisabodeatNynäs.LadyBrasseyhadanopportunityofseeingsomeFuegiansclosely.ItisscarcelynecessarytosaythattheKalmuksknownothingoftea-kettles,andmaketheirbeverageinlargeironpots.Thesituationhassheltereditfromshotandshell;but,withoutdoubt,itowesitsescapefromdestructioninparttothecircumstancethatintheMiddleAgesitwasconsecratedasachurch.Iconfesstheirappearancepleasedmemostwhentheywerejust[Pg85]vanishingfromsightonthesummitofahill,wheretheirmartialfigureswereoutlinedagainstthesky.InmyfamilytheonlylanguagemadeuseofwasFrench.Theair,besidesbeingmuchrarefied,isverydry;therainfallisfarbelowtheaverage,dewsarerare,andfogsnearlyunknown.Muchofherindignationwasnecessarily,andveryjustlybestowedonthethenflourishinginstitutionofdomesticslavery;butthatfoulblotonherscutcheonAmericawipedoutinblood,thebloodofthousandsofherbravestchildren.Ofcourse,wehopethatyouwillsupporttheProjectGutenberg-tmmissionofpromotingfreeaccesstoelectronicworksbyfreelysharingProjectGutenberg-tmworksincompliancewiththetermsofthisagreementforkeepingtheProjectGutenberg-tmnameassociatedwiththework.Rising,Iwentstraighttothenearestman,andstrikinghimfamiliarlyontheshoulder,Isaid,withasmile,halfinMalayandhalfinBattah,'Come,come,youwillneverhavethehearttokillandeatawoman,andanoldwomanlikeme,whoseskinisharderthanleather!'"Aroaroflaughtergreetedthiscourageousspeech,andthespeakerwasimmediatelyreceivedintothefriendshipofhersavageauditors,whooverwhelmedherwithmarksofgoodwillandadmiration.SincethevisitofM.IncompanywithhermotherandherauntsheexaminedthemonumentsandantiquitiesofEgypt,andthentookupherwinterresidenceatCairo.OnrecoveringherstrengthshetravelledtoSt.Louis,theFallsofSt.Anthony,Chicago—whichwasthenbeginningtojustifyitsclaimtothetitleof"QueenoftheWest"—andthevastinlandseasofLakesSuperior,Michigan,Erie,andOntario.Suddenlyherkeeneyesightedsomehorsemeninthedistance.StartingfromSanFrancisco,shetravelledbyrailwaytoTruckee.Notasinglethingwasleftintheroomwhereshelaydead,excepttheornamentsuponherperson:noonehadventuredtotakethese;evenindeathsheseemedabletoprotectherself.Thesonoftheprincess,acharmingboyoftwelve,whospokeRussianfluently,attachedhimselftous,politelytranslatedourorderstotheservants,andwascarefulthatweshouldwantfornothing.TheEnglishoccupythemselveswhollywithcommerce:forthem,faithandthesublimeteachingsofreligiontakebutthesecondplace."VeryfewFrenchtravellersseemabletoavoidanoccasionaloutbreakofspleneticpatriotism.Forthisreasonsheexcelsinasketchlikethefollowing,whereshedealsnotwithsky,andsea,andmountain,butthehumanityinthosetypesofitwhichcrowdthestreetsandlanesoftheHolyCity:—"ThepopulationofJerusalem,"shesays,"Iwoulddivideintothreeclasses:thesmokers,thecriers,andthemutesorphantoms.Comesshetoassistortopersecuteus?"Whenacquaintedwiththepacificobjectofherexpedition,theyrapidlygrewfamiliar,andventuredtogoupondeck.Alltherestofthepartyweredrenched,withtheexceptionofMuriel,whomCaptainBrownheldhighabovethewaterinhisarms,andwholostnotimeinremarking,inthemidstofthegeneralconfusion,"I'mnotatallwet,I'mnot."Happily,thechildrendon'tknowwhatfearis.Kaigan,whichhasapopulationof200,000souls,isthenorthernmosttownofChinaproper."Onthe24thofMay,thetravellers,accompaniedbyMadamedeBaluseck,departedfromKaiganandcrossedtheGreatWall.ThedetailsaretouchedasvividlyandpicturesquelyasinherSwedishinteriors:—"Atthreeo'clockintheafternoonthefestivalbegan.Myhorseboundedovertheirsurface,andgivinghimthereinsIallowedmyselftotraversetheplaininafuriousgallop,lulledbythedullsoundofhishoofs,whichathickcarpetofgrassesdeadened,payingnoheedtoanythingaroundme,andlostinaprofound[Pg294]reverie.TheresheconceivedanantipathytoAmericanmannersandcustoms,whichseemstohaveawakenedherpowersofsarcasm,andresultedinherfirstpublication,"DomesticLifeoftheAmericans."Thepeculiaritiesshehadfoundsoobnoxiousshesketchedwithastrong,roughhand;andthetruthofherdrawingwasprovedbythewrathfulfeelingswhichitprovokedinthebreastsofitsvictims.[Pg386]Readingitnow,wearenaturallyinclinedtothinkitacaricatureandanexaggeration;butitisonlyfairtorememberthat,sinceitsappearancehalfacenturyago,agreatchangehascomeoverthetemperofAmericansociety.NaturallyshebecameaNecessarian,andadoptedstrenuouslythedogmaoftheinvariableandinevitableactionoffixedlaws.Sometimes,inthemidstofallthiswildconfusion,akindofFrenchcourtierwouldcomemincingalong,inold-fashionedcostume,leadingalady,alsoinantiqueattire,and,gazingontherighthandandtheleftthroughanimmenseopera-glass,making,inthemeantime,themostpolitebows.Wornandwearywiththemonotonousroundofpretendedpleasures,shefrequentlylookedbackwithregrettothesolitudesoftheCaspian.Ihadclosedthedoor,sothatnooneshoulddisturboursolemnconference.ItwasatimewhenthemindsofmenweremuchoccupiedwiththesubjectofAfricanexploration,andweneednotwonder,therefore,thatitattractedtheattentionofAlexinaTinné.Thisexploitwasseveraltimesrepeated,andalwayswithouttheridersufferinghimselftobethrown.Theywereboldandskilfulriders,andtheirhorses,thoughsmall,wereremarkableforspiritandendurance.Everywhere,moreover,asoneofhertranslatorshassaid,thisliteraryAmazonmarches,armedwithaboldandvividcriticism,whichgatheredaroundhereagerreadersandbitterfoes.SomesaiditwasanOrientalprincess;oneinventedaloveaffairtoaccountforthelonelywanderingsofthisfemaleOdysseus;anotherhinteddarklyatsomepoliticalmissionfromfar-offMussulmancourtstothechiefsoftheSahara.Heregrowsthesaucroys,asbigasthebiggestpine-apple,greenoutside,andwhiteorpaleyellowinside,withatasteandperfumelikethatofthestrawberry.ItwasJaffa,theancientJoppa,oneoftheoldestcitiesintheworld.Theprecipiceoverhungabasinofmoltenfire,measuringnearlyamileacross.[Pg363]Withaclang,aclash,andaroar,likethatofbreakersonarockycoast,wavesofblood-red,fiery,liquidlavadashedagainsttheopposingcliffs,andflungtheirspumehighupintheair—waveswhichwereneverstill,butrolledonwardsincessantlytothecharge,andasincessantlyretired—hustlingoneanotherangrily,andhissingandboilingandbubbling,likeaseachafedbyadversewindandcurrent."Leavingthewallsofthecitybehind,wecrossedasandy,stonyplain.Thegorgeousvisionsvanished,andtheireyeswereopenedtothehardrealitiesofMohammedanignorance,bigotryandmisgovernment.TolearnmoreabouttheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationandhowyoureffortsanddonationscanhelp,seeSections3and4andtheFoundationwebpageat.Cuttinga[Pg232]smallpieceofwoodtoafinepoint,andthenselectingasecondpiece,whichhegroovedwithanarrowandnotverydeepfurrow,inthisherubbedthepointedstickuntilthefragmentsdetachedduringtheprocessbegantosmoke.HavingreadwithdeepinteresttheworksofVinet,shewasseizedwithadesiretostudyonthespotthereligiousmovementinProtestantSwitzerlandcalledforthbythe"FreeChurch,"ofwhichthateloquentdivinewasthefounder.Herambitionwassatisfied—shefeltherselfapower;herpridereceivednowounds,andherwillnocheck.Manyofthelargertreesareclothedwithparasiticferns;hugebird's-nestfernsgrowintheforksofthebranches,asdovariousorchids,thedaintychildrenofthemist,sothatthestemsarewell-nighasgreenaseverythingelseinthatwildernessoflovelyforms.Herdsofmiserable-looking,half-starvedcattlewerealsotobeseen;thecowsverylittlelargerthantheircalves,andallapparentlycoveredwiththesameroughshaggycoats.Theypossessatbottomawonderfulqualityofgoodness,ofgentleness,ofsimplicity,aremarkableinstinctofreverenceforthatwhichisgoodandbeautiful,ofrespectforthatwhichisweak.Afterafewweeks'staysheproceededtoBerlin.Therearenopropershopshere,butcollectionsofoldplanks,unitedanyhow,andsupportedbypilesofmerchandiseofallkinds,vases,porcelain,bronzes,arms,oldclothes,pipes;fromthewholeproceedsafœtidandinsupportableodour,temperedbythethickpungentsmokeoflampsfedwithrice-oil.EventhemightyNiagarahasscarcelypowertomoveher;therollingprairiesmakenoimpressiononherimagination.Itwasasinglegiganticridgewhichwehadpassedthrough,standingupknife-like,builtupentirelyofgreatbrick-shapedmassesofbright-redrock,piledoneonanotherbyTitans.[Pg422]Pitch-pinesgrewoutofthesecrevices,buttherewasnotavestigeofsoil.Theirfoodisofthescantiestdescription,consistingalmostwhollyofshell-fish,sea-eggs,andfishgenerally,whichtheytraintheirdogstoassistthemincatching.InoneofhisexcursionstothecataractsoftheDnieper,wherethemillsweretobeerected,hisgeologicalknowledgeledhimtothediscoveryoftherichveinsofanironmine,whichhassincebeenprofitablyworked.Sheneversmokedcherry-woodpipes,fromtheirweight,andbecauseshelikedcheaperones,whichshecouldrenewoftener.Idiscern,too,theinfluenceofthesunintheposeofyourhead,andinthemannerinwhichyouthrowitbackontheleftshoulder.MadamePfeifferwasnotascholar,butshehadreadenoughtofeelhersympathiesawakenedasshegazedfromtheloftysummitoftheAcropolisontheplainsofAtticaandthewatersoftheÆgean,onSalamisandMarathon.Shewasbynomeansanexpertmountaineer,having"neitherheadnorankles,"and,inreality,shewasdraggedorhauleduptheascentbythepatience,skill,andstrengthof"MountainJim."Upadeepravinetheyattainedtothepassageofthe"Dog'sLift,"throughwhichtheyemergedonanarrow,ruggedshelf,brokenanduneven,formingakindofterraceorplatform,wheretheydrewbreathbeforeattemptingthelast500feet—theterminalpeakitself,asmoothconeofpuregranitewithalmostperpendicularsides.Thegreatspiritswhichterrifycanalsoenchant.IntheintervalshehadvisitedNauplia,Argos,andCorinth;hadsailedamongstthebeautifulislandsoftheblueÆgean;hadwanderedintheclassicvaleofEurotas,andamongsttheruinsofSparta;hadtraversedThessaly,andsurveyedthefamousPasswhereLeonidasandhiswarriorsstoodatbayagainstthehostsofPersia;hadmusedintheoracularshadesofDelphiandgazedatthehauntedpeakofParnassus,andlookeduponallthatremainsofhundred-gatedThebes.[Pg33]"Foralongtimethesongs,athousandtimesrepeated,continuedtoanswereachotherfromsidetosideoftheglacier.Hereastreamletfellovertherocks,asheerdescentof1,200feet,butsogentleitsfallappeared,aswewatcheditobliquelyacrossthevalley,thatthewaterlookedlikemaraboutfeatherssoftlyfloatingdownwards.Atthattimeoftheyeartheriverinmanyplacesisasnarrowasacanal,andborderedonbothsidesbyaswampyplainwhichstretchesawaytothedimhorizon,coveredwithadensegrowthofgiganticreeds."Ihavebeenmuchstruck,"writesMadamedeBourboulon,"withtheextremevarietyofcostumesandtypesresultingfromthepresenceofnumerousforeignmerchants.Shecameofagoodstock:herfatherwasthatdemocraticandpracticalnoblemanwhoinventedaningeniousprinting-press,anderasedhisarmorialbearingsfromhisplateandfurniture;hermotherwastheeldestdaughterofWilliamPitt,the"greatEarlofChatham."ItwasatBurton-Pynsent,herillustriousgrandfather'scountryseat,shespentherearlyyears,displayingthatboldnessofspiritandloveofindependencewhichmarkedherlatercareer,trainingandridingthemostunmanageablehorses,andshockingsocietynotalittlebyherdisregardofitsconventionalities.Herfeaturesweredelicate;shehadacomplexionofexquisitefairness,revealingtheplayof"thepureandeloquentblood"which"spokeinhercheek,andsodistinctlywroughtthatonemightalmostsayherbodythought;"andaprofusionofglossyraventressesescapedfromunderhercap.Beingbutlittleinclined,wereheevenable,tosustainsuchaheresyagainstonewhowasinherownpersonsuchanirresistiblerefutationofit,LordByronhadnootherrefugefromthefairorator'sargumentsthaninassentandsilence;andthiswell-breddeferencebeing,inasensiblewoman'seyes,equivalenttoconcession,theybecame,thenceforward,mostcordialfriends.Sheisconstrainedtoadmitthatthegreatpeople'spoet,whosefamewillendurewhenthatofmostofhiscontemporarieshaspassedintodulloblivion,isamanofafinegenius,butshewillnotyieldtohimthatforemostplacewhichposterity,nevertheless,hasadjudgedtobelongtohim.YouwillshortlyreturntoEurope.Allthingswhichborethestampoftheprinciplesandsentimentsofformergenerationswerebrandedasrococo."Icarriedherout,"saysMadamedeHell,"uponthebalcony,where,overcomebyheremotions,theinfluencesoftheplace,andthatyearningaftersympathywhichissopowerfulinsolitude,sheopenedherhearttome,andtoldmeasimplebutpatheticstoryofallthatshehadendured."ThecustomoftheEastsanctions,andalmostcommands,somemomentsofsilencewhilstyouareinhalingthefirstfewbreathsofthefragrantpipe.AtpartingsheearnestlyurgedhimtogivejusterlawstothewomenofPiedmont,who,inallthatappertainedtotherightofinheritance,weregreatlyinferiortomen.Tothishighranktheynaturallyelevatedsomagnificentandcommandingapersonage.InformationaboutDonationstotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationProjectGutenberg-tmdependsuponandcannotsurvivewithoutwidespreadpublicsupportanddonationstocarryoutitsmissionofincreasingthenumberofpublicdomainandlicensedworksthatcanbefreelydistributedinmachinereadableformaccessiblebythewidestarrayofequipmentincludingoutdatedequipment.Naturallychilly,andhavingnomeansofwarmingthemselvesbyexercise,theyremainforhoursatatimehuddledonthegroundbeforethefire,andcannotunderstandthatavisitorisalmostchokedbytheatmosphere.Atlast,[Pg243]MadamePfeifferseizedoneofthembythearm,andturnedheroutofherroomwithsomuchpromptitudethatshehadnotimetothinkofresistance.TheMongolianmodeofharnessingisverystrange:alongwoodentransversalbarisfastenedtotheendoftheshafts,andoneachsideahorsemanglidesunderhissaddle;thentheysetoffatfullgallop.Soonafterwards,QueenRanavalagaveabanquetinhonourofhervisitor,andinvited—or,perhaps,weshouldsaycommanded—hertogiveamusicalperformancebeforeallhercourt.Writingtoafriendsixweeksbeforeherdeath,sheexclaims:—"Iamveryill....Butinvaintheypursuedhimwithcriesandquestions;hecontinuedtomovesilentlyalongtheblackrock.AlexinaTinnéreachedatlengththejunctionoftheSobatwiththeNile.Thoughnotadeep,shewasacloseand[Pg365]anaccurateobserver;andherbookmayadvantageouslybeconsultedbyothersthanthe"generalreader."TheHawaiians,asapeoplewithagooddealofleisure,uponwhoseshouldersasyetcivilizationhaslaidnoneofitsheavierburdens,arenaturallypronetoamusement,andcultivatetheirnumerousnationalsportswithagooddealofenergyandskill.ThesheikhcontrivedtoletLadyHesterseethatshewastheteterrimacausabelli,andthatthecontentionwouldreadilybeappeasedbutforhisrecognitionofthesacrednessofthedutyofprotectingtheEnglishwomanwhomhehadreceivedashisguest;atthesametimehistribewouldprobablyexperienceacrushingdisaster.Anextraordinaryappearancedidthatvastlavafieldpresent,contortedasitwasintoeveryimaginableshapeandform,accordingtothetemperatureithadattainedandtherapiditywithwhichithadcooled.Oftheseven,twohadbeenthewivesoftheheadofthehousehold,whowasdead;threewerethewivesofhiseldestson,agedtwenty-two;andtheremainingtwowerethewivesofhissecondson,agedfifteen.Oneofhiscomradesseemedtofeelalittletoodrenchedafterhislateimmersion,forhesatinthesun,spreadingouthisbeautifulplumageofdarkmetallic-greentodry.Theirfoodconsistschieflyofthefleshofmares,andtroopsoftheseanimalsaccompanythemalwaysontheirexcursions.Theimprovement,however,didnotlast,andhermalady(canceroftheliver)returnedwithincreasedviolence.Onasunnyafternoonhalfthepopulationofthelattertownmaybeseen"disportingthemselvesin,upon,andbeneaththewater."Climbingthesteepandruggedrocksthatformtheoppositebank,theytakeheadersandfootersandsidersfromanyelevationunderfive-and-twentyfeet,divingandswimmingineveryimaginableattitude,andwithakindofeasyandspontaneousgracethatcommandsadmiration.OnherarrivalatJebelHunaya,shewasreceivedwithshoutsofjoy,and,tothesurpriseofthenatives,withasalutefromsomesmallcannons.Atlengththegentlemengrewimpatient,anditwasarrangedthattheyshouldgoinsearchofthepromisedbearers,leavingMissTinnéandhercompanionsatMeschra.andthesonofman,thatThouvisitesthim?'"[42]Atthe"Notch"thetruecharacteroftheenterpriseshehadundertakenwasforciblybroughthometoMissBird'sconsciousness.Tothelatterclass,asthisvolumeshows,belongourfemaletravellers,amongwhomwefindnocompanionorrivaltosuchpioneersasaLivingstone,[Pg216]aBarth,aFranklin,oraSturt.Theydrewnearerandnearer;evidentlytheyweremakingdirecttowardsher;andeventuallysomehundredsoffully-armedBedawungallopeduptoher,withfierce,hoarseshouts,brandishingtheirspearsasiftheythirstedforherblood.Throughthetransparentaireveryobjectisseenwithasharp,clearoutline,andthesenseofdistanceisovercome.Itsadventwasindicatedbythethinice-crustthatcoveredthebeach,theharshwinds,thefrostboundsoil,andtheincreasingluridgloomoftheatmosphere;symptomswhichmadeourtravellersapprehensiveofpossiblesufferingontheirroadtoOdessa,theirintended[Pg99]winter-quarters,whencetheyweredistantabout900versts.asenvelopedinadeepandsublimesilence.InspiteofthehistoricalinterestwhichnowattachestoSevastopol,asthesceneofthecrowningstrugglebetweenRussiaandtheWesternPowers,themostremarkableplaceintheChersoneseisBagtcheSerai,"thatancientcitywhich,priortotheMuscoviteconquestofthepeninsula,mightcompeteinwealthandpowerwiththegreatcitiesoftheEast."Beautifulexceedinglyistheapproachtoit,byaroadrunningparallelwithachainofheights,andclothedwithluxuriantorchards,[Pg105]studdedwithvillageandfarm,andbrightenedbythesheenofbrooks.Avastamountofunprofitablerhetorichasbeenexpendeduponthissubject.ButaboutSeptembersheevincedakeenanxietytoreturnhome;andherfriendsperceivedthattheconvictionofapproachingdeathwasatthebottomofthisanxiety.ForbackgroundthecanvaswillhavethepicturesqueLouisQuatorzeinteriorsofSans-Souci;intheforeground,thekingandthegreatHumboldt,whoinclinestowardstheyounggirl;fartheroff,hersisterleaningontheirfather'sarm,andtheagedRauch,whoclosesupthesceneandholdsinhishandthebas-relief.Thewholeaffairwastheworkofafewseconds;sothatMadamePfeiffercouldscarcelytellwhathadhappened;andasthemanstillheldhertightly,andkepthermouthcoveredup,shewasunabletogiveanalarm.Buttrulygreatminds,toparaphrasesomewordsofGeorgesSand,arealwaysgoodminds.Asenseofthebeautiful,andapowerofexpressingthatsensesoastomakeitfeltbyothers,istheprimaryandindispensablequalificationofthetraveller.Anearthenwareybrick,orjug,withaspout,stoodinoneofthewindows,withasmallcopperbasin,andthisconstitutedherwashingappliances.Theperilwasextreme;andbutforthecourageousPierreBohren,whocarriedmeratherthansupportedme,Icouldneverhavedescendedthebarerocksthatskirttheedgeoftheglacier.Unfortunately,hedeclaimedvehementlyagainsttheproceedingsoftheEgyptians,whohavingnosense[Pg202]ofhumour,puthimtodeath."OnonesidewasthesplendidParthenon,ontheothertheErechtheum,withthePorchofCaryatides,calledBeautiful,andrightwellitdeservesitsname.There,Chineseartdisplayedallitsmarvelsofdesignandworkmanship;thecoloursoftherainbowglitteredeverywhere;thewallswereemblazonedwithpleasantlandscapes,azureseas,transparentlakes,shadowyforests,animperialhuntingparty,withantelopesandroebucksflyingbeforetheloud-mouthedhounds;inaword,withallthedelightsofaChineseearthlyparadise.Thecalmreposethatbreathedfromtheirlovelycountenanceshadneverbeendisturbedbyanyprofaneglance.Itisoneinwhichbothmenandwomenjoin.ThereyoumayseeassembledallthestrangeracesoftheEast,[Pg301]elbowingRussians,andJews,andCossacks,andthetradersofalmosteveryEuropeannation.Mansfeldfigures:—"Manymarriages,myfriends,havebegunlikethedawn,andfallenlikethedarknight.Theplanshehas[Pg25]adoptedisopenperhapstocriticism:suchmixtureofpoetryanderuditionmayoffendseverertastes;wegrowindulgent,however,whenweperceivethatthewriterpreservesherindividualitywhilepassingfromenthusiasticdithyrambstothemostabstracthistoricaldissertations.Inthelargestandmostcommodiousdahabuyahwentthethreeladies,withaSyriancookandfourEuropeanservants.Inoneofherramblesshecrossedasmallwaterfall;shestruckrightintothedepthsofthevirginforest,followinganarrowpathalongthebankofalittlestream.Aroyalwelcomewasaccordedthem.ThishasbeendonebyFrederikaBremer.Itwasprobablyowingtothisspasmofalarmthathereceivedtheladieswithroyalhonours,sendingthemsheep,oxen,fruit,vegetables,dancers,archæologicalcuriosities—inshort,heseemedanxioustomakeofferingofallhepossessed.Iquittedthecharnel-house,anddirectingmystepsverycautiouslyovertheslipperysoil,penetratedinland.Intwodeepnichesinthewall(whichwasaboutthreefeetthick)wereheapedonashelf,equidistantfromthetopandbottom,afewbooks,somebundlestiedupinhandkerchiefs,writingpaper,withsundryotherarticlesofdailyuse—such[Pg332]asawhiteplate,loadedwithseveralpairsofscissorsandtwoorthreepairsofspectacles,andanotherwhiteplatewithpins,sealing-wax,andwafers;also,acommonwhiteinkstand,andtheoldparchmentcoverofsomemerchant'sdaybook,withblottingpaperinside,onwhich,spreadonherlap,asshesatupinbed,shegenerallywroteherletters.ForthirtyyearsIhadforgottentheinstrument.HerpoeticalfacultieswerefirststimulatedbyhervoyagetotheEast.ShethoughttheOthellogood,nay,verygood,for,sheobserves,"OnreturningfromChinaoneisnotveryhardtoplease."FromNijni-NovgorodourtravellersproceededtoMoscowbyrail,andthencetoSt.Petersburg,returningtoParisthroughPrussiaandBelgium.Thenephewofthislawyersoughtadmissiontothebar.Themostpotentbribe—potentenoughtoprevailovereventhestoutestconscience—isapieceofblueorredcotton;butthis,onaccountofitsmoralvalue,MissTinnéwascarefultokeepexclusivelyforthechiefs.Itwaspleasanttogazeonthefairlandscapeswhichlinedthebanksofthegreatriver."IsummonedPierretomyprivateapartment,andspoketohimwithfirmness,soastostrengthenhisresolutions.Her"RideintheRockyMountains"showswhatmaybeaccomplishedbyabrave,strongwomanunderverydifficultconditions.Thenativeswhoaccompaniedhertooktoflight,andlefthertofacethedangeralone."Wewereallsittingorstanding,"shesays,"aboutthesternofthevessel,admiringthemagnificentdarkbluebillowsfollowingus,withtheircurlingwhitecrests,mountainshigh.Advancingwithasingularlydignifiedair,shetookbothmyhands,kissedmeonbothcheeks,andwithmanyfriendlydemonstrationssatdownbymyside.1.F.6.INDEMNITY-YouagreetoindemnifyandholdtheFoundation,thetrademarkowner,anyagentoremployeeoftheFoundation,anyoneprovidingcopiesofProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworksinaccordancewiththisagreement,andanyvolunteersassociatedwiththeproduction,promotionanddistributionofProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks,harmlessfromallliability,costsandexpenses,includinglegalfees,thatarisedirectlyorindirectlyfromanyofthefollowingwhichyoudoorcausetooccur:(a)distributionofthisoranyProjectGutenberg-tmwork,(b)alteration,modification,oradditionsordeletionstoanyProjectGutenberg-tmwork,and(c)anyDefectyoucause.Thefantasticallycarvedwallsofrocksparkledwithcapriciousgleams.ThencetheyproceededtoPiatigorsk,celebratedforitsmineralwaters.Insailingsouthward,theshiptouchedatSantos,wherethevoyagerscelebratedNewYear'sDay,andtheymadethemouthoftheRioPlataonthe11thofJanuary.Mountainswithpine-clothedskirtsroseinranges,or,solitary,upliftedtheirgreysummits;whileclosebehind,butnearly3,000feetaboveus,toweredthebaldwhitecrestofLong'sPeak,itshugeprecipicesredwiththelightofasunlonglosttooureyes.SheismoreathomeintheHawaiianmarketthanamongtheruinedtemplesofAthens.Trollope'shardhittinghadprovoked."Afterdinner,M.Itwouldseemthatinhervariouscruisesshehasaccomplishedsome12,000miles—initselfnoinconsiderablefeatforanEnglishlady;butthefeatbecomesallthemorenoteworthywhenwefindthat,insteadofbeing,aswewouldnaturallysuppose,"athomeonthesea,"andwhollyuntouchedbythesufferingitinflictsonsomany,shehasalwaysbeenavictim.[Pg378]EnteringtheharbourofValettaonherhomewardvoyage,shewrites:—"Ithinkthatatlastthebattleofeighteenyearsisaccomplished,andthatthebadweatherwehavesocontinuallyexperiencedsinceweleftConstantinople,comprisingfivegalesinelevendays,hasendedbymakingmeagoodsailor.Hisinfluencewasasbeneficialasitwaspowerful.P.But

LadyHesterStanhopewasnolunatic.TheChinesearecertainlythecleveresttradersintheworld,andIpredictthattheywillproveformidablecompetitorstothedealersofLondonandParis,ifitshouldeveroccurtothemtosetuptheirestablishmentsinEurope.HeroriginalintentionwastopenetratetheAfricaninteriorasfarasLakeNgami;buteventuallysheresolvedonexploringtheEasternArchipelago.HerbriefcareerasatravellerterminatedwithhervisittotheEast;butareferencetotheincidentsofherlaterlifemaypossiblybeconvenientforthereader.Soithasnotinaptlybeensaidthatshedenouncestheslave-holdersonlywhensheisinYankeeterritory,andcriticisestheYankeesonlywhensheisintheSouthernStates.ThedifficultyoftravelisincreasedbythepeculiarrapidtrotoftheMongolhorsesandtheformidableunevennessoftheground.SheremindsoneofthatWesternpatriotwho,fromthebanksoftheMississippi,watchingtheexplosionofasteamship,exclaimed,"Heavens!theAmericansareagreatpeople!"Thisexclamationshedoesnotrepeatinsomanywords,buttheideawhichitembodiesispresentineverypageofherbook.TheprofessoramusedhimselfbycallingournovelistSitti,anArabictitlebestoweduponwomenofhighrank,andalmostequivalenttothatof"princess."Abhul,theguide,overhearingit,inquiredifshewereakinswomanoftheSultanofPrussia,Frederick!"Yes,"answeredMr.Levison,gravely,"sheisakinswoman,butadistantone."Andthenheapprisedhisfellow-travellerofthenewdignityhehadconferreduponher.Kindred,ourboatswain,seeinghisdanger,rushedforwardtosavehim,butwasknockeddownbythereturnwave,fromwhichheemergedgasping.Thetrousersarewideandopenbelow.Whatchanges,inhalfacentury,havebeenwroughtinthenationalcharacter!Thereseemsinthepresentacertaindulness,greyness,andindifference,—orisitratheranacquiredreticenceandself-control?—whichcontrastverystrikinglywiththefeverish,agitated,tumultuouspast,sopartialtofantasticcrotchets,butsosympatheticalsowithgreatdoctrinesandgenerousideas.Theconversationisnotmuch,andtenminutessufficesforthedinner:fruitandtoddy,thenewspaper,andthework-bagsucceed.Shehuntedpumas,ostriches,guanacos;witnessedthewildandwaywardmovementsofthewildhorsesontheplains,whichforageshavebelongeduntothem;sufferedfromtheburdenoftheheat,andtheattacksofthegnats;exploredtherecessesoftheCordilleras,andcameuponabroadandbeautifullake,onwhich,inallprobability,nohumaneyebeforehadeverlooked;untilatlastshegrewwearyofadventure,andsheandhercompanionsturnedtheirfacesoncemoretowardsthecommonplacecomfortsofcivilization.AfterwitnessinganeruptionofthevolcanoofCotopaxi,sheretracedherstepstotheWest.JohnBullis[Pg149]corpulent,withhigh-colouredcheeks,isself-assertive,andspeaksinaloudvoice;BrotherJonathan,whoismuchyounger,islank,tall,weakabouttheknees,notboastful,butvigorousanddecided.Shebelievedthesethingsincommonwiththosearoundher;anditcouldscarcelybeotherwise,forsheseldomspoketoanybody,exceptcrazyolddervishes,whoatoncereceivedheralmsandfosteredherextravagances;andevenwhen(asontheoccasionofmyvisit)shewasbroughtintocontactwithapersonentertainingdifferentnotions,shestillremaineduncontradicted.ThisseniorordoyenoftheGermanartists,whodiedoverwhelmedwithgloryandhonours,hadbeenavaletdechambreinthePrincessLouisa'shousehold.Sometimestheprocessionofcarriagesisstoppedbythecrush,andwoethentothecarriageortheladieswhohappentobestoppedunderagreatbalcony,fortheyarethenoverwhelmedbysuchashowerofchalkandpowdercomfits,whichraindownuponthemlikehail,thatthedominoesandouterattirearespoiled!Oneisfortunateifonecankeepone'seyesuninjured;butagreatmanyoftheuneducatedclassamusethemselvesbythrowingwhitepowderintopeople'sfaces,andifthisgetsintotheeyes,itsometimesoccasionslongsuffering;sometimesonereceivesagreatblowontheheadfromanimmensebouquet;oragreatpieceofconfectionery,ashardasastone;butanyonewhoentersintothesportmusttolerateit—and,happenwhatmay,peopleareonlythemoreexcitedandfilledbythespiritofthetime....Pastoralraceshavelustedafteritsgreenmountainranges;commercialnationshavestriventogainpossessionofitsportsandstraits;warriortribeshavepitchedtheirtentsinitsfertilevalleys;andallhavecravedafootholdinthatlandtowhichclingsomanygloriousmemoriesoftheGreekcivilization.Allowingherselftobelievethattheconditionofthenegroeswasnotsodeplorableasshehadsupposed,sheevenbegantoextenuatetheinstitutionofslaverybyargumentstootransparentlyfeebletocallfordetailedconfutation.Herbedsteadmighthavesuitedaveterancampaigner;itconsistedsimplyofafewplanksnailedtogetheronlowtressels."PerhapsIdestroyafewillusions,inspeakingoftheharemwithsolittlerespect.ThroughoutherIndiantravelshefeltmuchvexedatbeingconveyedinapalanquin;itseemedadishonouringofmentotreatthemasbeastsofburden.Asforhimself,hetookuphisabodeinthesummer-saloon.TheothertravellersjourneyedonhorsebackorinChinesecarts.ItwasnaturalenoughthatawomanofreligioustemperamentshouldbeattractedtotheHolyLand.Ontheirreturntheboatmendeckedthemselvesandtheirboatwithwreathsofhawthornandblossomingapplesprays,sothattheyenteredtheharbourwithmuchfestalpomp.SirCharlesDilkespeaksof"silentcrowdsoftallandgracefulgirls,asweatfirstsupposed,wearingwhitepetticoatsandbodices,theirhaircarriedoffthefacewithadecoratedhoop,andcaughtatthebackbyahightortoise-shellcomb.Nooneknowswhenceitsprings;butfromtheearliesttimesithasbeencelebrated,andsomewritershaveassertedthatitcomesalltheway,underthesea,fromthemountainsofKeramania,inAsiaMinor."Afteranhour'shalt,weresumedourmarch,andsooncouldseeonlythecoldwhitesnowaroundus,withouttheleastsignofvegetationorlife.Notonlydidshemakeawhollyunexpectedandunhoped-forprogress,butitbecamenecessaryforherteacherstoemploywithheraparticularmethod:hergeniuscouldnotsubmittotherestraintofordinaryrules."Shewasstillinthespringtimeandflushofyouth,whenshewentonatourtoGermany,andvisitedseveralGermancourts,wheresheexcitedthesamesentimentsofadmirationasinherowncountry;itwasimpossibletoseeherwithoutbeingattractedbysomuchintellect,graceandamiability."Sinceyoumeannoevilagainstus,"theycried,"wewilldoyounoharm;wewillloveyou!"Theytookfromherhandsacupoftea,andcourteouslydrankitwithoutshowinganyrepugnance;whiletheyansweredallherquestionsrespectingtheirmannersandcustoms,andsuppliedherwithinformationrelativetothesurroundingcountry.Theseresemblebunchesofgiganticgoldenplums.Theonlyfootholdherewasinnarrowcracksoronminuteprojectionsofthegranite.Some,indeed,werepleasedtocastuponitagleamofromance,andprotestedthatitwasbroughtaboutbyhersweetsorrowforayoungEnglishofficerofhighrankwhohadperishedononeofthebattle-fieldsofthePeninsula.TheKalmukshavealmostasgreatapartialityforsmallfeetastheChinese,and,astheyareconstantlyonhorseback,theirshortbootscausethemnogreatinconvenience.Butforthesereasonstheyareverybadpedestrians,their"cribbed,cabined,andconfined"foot-gearobligesthemtowalkontheirtoes;andtheirdistressisgreatwhentheyhavenohorsetomount.SoonBirdieandmyself[Pg436]wereamassofacicularcrystals;itwasatrueeasterlyfog.Passionatelydevotedtothecauseofa"freeItaly,"shewasunabletoliveundertheheavyyokeoftheAustriansupremacy,andhastenedtoestablishherselfatParis,whereherrank,herfortune,herloveofletters[Pg49]andthearts,andtheboldnessofherpoliticalopinions,madehertheattractionofthehighestsociety."Butthetimehadcomeforourdeparture,andImusttakeleaveofthemountainwhereIwassofarfrommen!Iembracedtheflag,andatthreeo'clockwebeganourhomewardmarch."Itwasnearlydarkwhenwestartedtoreturn;and[Pg377]itwaswithmanyastumble,butneveratumble,thatwegallopedacrossthestonyplain,andreachedthecampaboutsevenp.m.HerewefoundasilkmerchantfromNikosiawaitingtoseeus,withacollectionofthesoftsilksofthecountry,celebratedsincethedaysofBoccaccio.Fetteredaswomenareinhighlycivilizedcountriesbyrestraints,obligations,andresponsibilities,whicharetoooftenarbitraryandartificial,theirimpatienceofthemisnotdifficulttobeunderstood;anditisnaturalenoughthatwhentheopportunityoffers,theyshouldhailevenatemporaryemancipation.ThatistheonlymeritIhave.Armedwithasurf-board—aflatpieceofwood,aboutfourfeetlongbytwofeetwide,pointedateachend—whichtheyputedge-wiseinfrontofthem,theyswimoutintothebroadandbeautifulbay,anddiveunderthesurf-crestedbillowsofthePacific."PassingthroughoneofthestreetsofPera(theEuropeansuburb),Iwasarrestedbyascoreofpersonsgroupedroundagavas(akindofcivicguard)whowasendeavouringtopersuadeanegresstobeconductedtothepalacewhereshewasexpected,andwhere,hetoldher,shewouldmeetwithallthepleasuresimaginable.Thereissomesecondarybeingthatdoesthat—someintendant.Nowhereelseistheconditionofwomansodeplorable;notsomuchbecausesheisdeprivedofherlibertyasbecausesheiscondemnedtothemostabsoluteignorance.Extremelybeautifulbouquetsandfinebonbonscomeamongstquantitiesofotherswhicharelessbeautifulandnotatallsplendid.ButBohren,whohadventuredthefarthest,hadnotpassedbeyondthegrottooftheEiger.ItwascharacteristicofMadamePfeifferthatshefoundaccesstosomuchwhichnoEuropeanwomanhadeverseenbefore."Frederika,"sayshersister,[9]"foundandfeltthatsherequiredtolearnmuch,andthatshestoodinneedofafirmreligiousfaith,whichshehadhithertolacked.Oneoftheguides,havingbroughtfromthegrottoafewjuniperbranches,kindledafireandmeltedsomesnow,whichwedrankwitheagerness.Itisthestandardofhumanity,ofgenerousideasanduniversalemancipation,placedthroughouttheextremeEastundertheprotectionofFrance."Happilyformyself,Iwasnotdeficientinlinguisticknowledge.Asapreciousjewelisencrustedbythecoarserock,thesmilingbayliesencircledbyfrowningmountainsofcolossalproportionsandthemostcapriciousshapes.Frommare'smilkorass'smilktheymanufactureakindofbrandy;butasitisaveryfeeblestimulant,theyeagerlyseekafterRussianliquors;andtherefore,topreventthefatalconsequencesoftheirmania,thegovernmenthasforbiddentheestablishmentofanydram-shopsamongtheirhordes.Thisiswhathashappened—ishappeningto-day—inrespectofOrientalhospitality.Whenthiswasdone,shewroteherlettersandplungedintothoseendlessconversationswhichseemtohavebeenhersole,or,atallevents,herchiefpleasure.MissTinnéwishedtohire,fortheaccommodationofherpeople,asmallzeribah,orcamp,containingtwotents;andBisellinamedthirtydollarsastherent,butwhenMissTinné'sservantsbegantostorethebaggage,hesuddenlyraisedhisdemandtotwohundred.Muchclearandforciblewriting,withmanyvivaciousobservations,willbefoundinthe"SketchesandCharacteristicsofHindustan,"publishedbyMissEmmaRobertsin1835.Itisprobablethat,owingtotheseason,theMönchwasstillburiedundertheaccumulatedsnowsofwinter,andthiscircumstancegreatlycontributedtooursuccess.Ourtraveller'sboldenterprisewascompletedonthe30thofOctober,andshecouldhonourablyboastofhavingbeenthefirstwomantoaccomplishthecircuitoftheglobe.Relativesandneighbourscrowdintowishtheparentsjoyinthepossessionofsuchanangel;and,duringthefirstnight,theykeepakindofIrishwake,indulginginthemostextravagantdances,andfeastingbeforetheangelitoinamoodofthewildestmerriment.1.E.6.Youmayconverttoanddistributethisworkinanybinary,compressed,markedup,nonproprietaryorproprietaryform,includinganywordprocessingorhypertextform.Submarinecoralforests,ofeveryhue,enrichedwithsea-flowers,anemones,andechinidæ,ofunimaginablebrilliancy;shoalsofthebrightestfishflashinginandoutlikerainbowgleams;shellsofgorgeouslustre,movingslowlyalongwiththeirlivinginmates;fairyfoliageoffantasticsea-weedsstirred[Pg357]intotremulousmotionbytheglidingwave;uponthesetheenchantedgazedweltinthedepthsofthelagoon,whilethesurfaceglowedwitheverypossibleandexquisitetint,fromthepalestaquamarinatothebrightestemerald;fromthepurelightblueoftheturquoisetothe"deeply,darkly,beautifullyblue"ofthesapphire;whilehereandtheretheglassywavewasbrokenupbypatchesofred,brown,andgreencoralrisingfromthemassbelow.Itexistedinthespiritandtendencyofalltheirlegislation,and,besides,itwasright.[14]THESIMPLON."Isatdownatthepiano,andbegantoplay;butwhatweremyfeelingsatfindingitsooutoforderthatnotonenotewasintune,andthatseveralofthekeysrespondedtothestrongestpressurewithanobstinatesilence?Broaddivans,resplendentwithcrimsonvelvet,runallroundtheroom.TheyowetheirnametothefancifulcredulityofMagellan,whothusimmortalizedhisconvictionthattheywereofgiganticproportions—Patagons,[Pg353]orPentagons,thatis,fivecubitshigh.Thousandsofbirds,surprisedamongthetallgrassesbythepassingcaravan,sprangaloft,andfilledtheairwiththewhirandwinnowofswiftwings.Itiseasytoimagineheranxiety;butrecoveringherpresenceofmind,shegaveordersthatthecargoshouldbeimmediatelyunloaded,andtheleakbeingrepaired,sheresumedhervoyage.Thefaintlinesthatchequeredthesky[Pg84]graduallyassumedagreaterdistinctnessofformandcolour;atfirstthemountainsseemedsomanylight,transparentvapours,floatinguponthewind;butbydegreestheairyvisiondevelopedintoforest-crownedmountains,deepshadowygorges,anddomesclothedwithmists.Uponbookornewspapershenevercastaglance,buttrustedwhollytothestarsforhersublimeknowledge.Thedrawing-roomisthepride,notonlyofeveryEuropeansettler,butofeverynativeChilian.Sheseessomuchthatnomanwouldeverhaveseen,andseesitallinalightsodifferentfromthatinwhichmenwouldhaveseenit.Nodoubttherecentmentalstrainhadenfeebledhernervoussystem,andrenderedhermoreliabletodisease.ItisthevalleyofLauterbrunnen,or"LaughingWaters":—"FromSteinbockthevalleybecomesevernarrower,betweeneverhighermountainwalls;louderandlouderroarthebecksandthestreams,which,nowswollenbytherains,arehurledfromtheglaciersdowntowardsthevalleyandtheriver.Tothose[Pg144]whohavefedontherhapsodiesofacertainschooloffictiontheywillseemvulgarlycommonplace.Sometimesamasqueradinggentlemandesignstopresentyouwithanextremelybeautifulbouquet;butifyoudonottakegreatcareitisquicklysnatchedawaybysomelad,whojumpsuponthesteporwheelofthecarriage....Allthesehousesareofstone,andwhite-washed,andallapproachthesquareordice-likeform.Therideatfirstwasonelongseriesofgloriesandsurprises,ofpeakandglade,oflakeandstream,andofmountainuponmountain,culminatingintheshiveredpinnaclesofLong'sPeak.UnderthesecondEmpire,however,womenwerescarcelylessguiltythanthemen,andthemaniaofspeculationragedinalmosteveryboudoir.Whentheroomwasready,oneofhertwogirls,ZezefôrnorFalôom,wouldprecedehertoit,bearingwaxtapersintheirhands.Ihadjustlaidasidemypen,andwasmeditatingwhether,afterthelastkabar,theQueenwouldnothavecometoadecision.Againitmightbeseeninthesemblanceofacollectionoforgan-pipes,oraccumulatedintomoundsandconesofvariousdimensions.ThroughthetelescopeIwasshowntheprecipicesoftheJungfrau.Itwas'ugly'altogether,certainlya'desperado's'grimjest,anditwasbesttoacceptitassuch,thoughIhadjustcausefordispleasure.InbiddingfarewelltotheEast,sheexpressedherjoyanddelightathavingseenit,butaddedthatnotallitsgold,norallitstreasure,wouldinducehertospendherdaysinitsindolentandluxuriousatmosphere.Itwasonthe25thofApril,1857,thatMadamePfeiffersailedforMadagascar,andonthelastdayofthemonthshereachedtheportofTamatavé.ButwehavegivenuptoMadamedeHellasmuchofourlimitedspaceaswecanspare,andnowtakeleaveofherwiththeacknowledgmentthatamongmodernfemaletravellersshedeservesahighrankinvirtueofherintelligence,hersympathies,andherkeensensibilitytoallthatisbeautifulandgood.Anabundanceofdarkbrownhairwavesfromundertheredcap,andfallsinwavingcurlsuponthepalecheeks.Totheeast,attheveryfootofthehillonwhichthetownstands,liesSouthBay,nearlytwomilesinlength,andcompletelyshelteredbyhighlimestonecliffs.Wheredutiesarefew,itisnaturaltheyshouldbegreatlyrespected.Thesnowuponitseemedquitesolid,andIthoughtitwouldbeimpossibletofindthereanythingmoredangerousthanwehadalreadyexperienced.Allaroundherwasnewandstrange,andeachday,eachhour,broughtbeforehereagermindsomefreshsubjectofspeculation."Weencountered,"theysay,"nogalesofanyseverity,havetorecordnoalarmingadventures,andreturnedtoEnglandaftersixteenmonths'absence,convincedbyexperiencethattopersonsofaveragehealthandstrengththedifficultiesofsuchajourneyexistonlyintheimagination.Inthefollowingpassagewerecognizesomethingofthatrealisticpowerwhichmakesthecharmofhernovels.ItremblestillwhenIthinkoftheperilIhaveescaped;myhorse,betterservedbyitsinstinctthanIbymyintelligence,haddashedonwards,whileIperceivednothing:afewpacesmoreandIwaslost!"Whitevapours,risingfromtheearth,gaveourpostillionsafantasticappearance;onemighthavemistakenthemforblackshadowsofgiganticproportions,mountedupontransparentandmicroscopichorses.Letnotthereadersuppose,however,thatanEgyptiandarknessprevailsinthesewindowlessapartments.Duringthesepreparationsthemistresswouldrecollectsomeordershehadpreviouslygivenaboutsomehoney,flower,orletter—nomatterhowevertrivial—andthepersonchargedwithitsexecutionwouldbesummonedfromhisbed,whatevermightbethetime,andquestionedrespectingit.WhenMissBremersawhim,hewasstilltheMinisteroftheKingofSardinia;butinsecretwasunweariedlylabouringtocarryoutthepolicywhichplacedonthebrowoftheKingofSardiniatheItaliancrown.Mr.KinglakereportsthatherconnectionwiththeBedawunbeganbyhermakingalargepresentofmoney(£500,animmense[Pg308]suminpiastres)tothechiefwhoseauthoritywasrecognizedbetweenDamascusandPalmyra.Themannerswereeasy,calm,andveryagreeable,andindicatednoordinarypowerofself-control.Iimmediatelysprangout,onlytofindmyselfinanotherpoolonthefloor.Iwillonlyaddthattheconditiongrowsdailyworse,sothatIamscarcelyabletoconverseorread,andthecrampinthehandsmakeswritingdifficultorimpossible;soImusttrytobecontentwiththefewlinesIcansend,tillthefewdaysbecomenone.Howvainarealltheeffortswhichmanisabletomaketodirectthecourseofhisownexistence!Thereisnothing,intruth,butconfidenceinanexaltedWisdomandanimmovablePowerwhichcanenableus,fromthegreatesttothesmallest,totraversewithcourageandtranquillityaworldsubjecttosuchterribleconvulsions.[Pg400]IntheopinionofoneFrenchcritic,thebookupon"ParisandtheParisians"isoneofthemostinterestingworkswhichhasdealtwiththesubjectofFrenchsociety.Twiceorthricetheyboardedthelatter;atfirstverytimidly,butafterwardswithcourage.Itmustbeanawfulsighttoseeanangel!Thereissomethingsotranscendentandbeautifulinthem,thatapersonmustbehalfoutofhissensestobravethesight.Beforeeachguestisplacedasmalllacquertable,aboutsixincheshigh,withapairofchopsticks,abasinofsoup,abowlofrice,asakicup,andabasinofhotwater;whileinthemiddlesatthefourJapaneseHebes,withfirestokeepthesakihot,andlightthelongpipestheycarried,fromwhichtheywishedtheirvisitorstotakeawhiffaftereachdish.Partlyforornament,partlyalsoasameansofprotectionagainstthewind,agreatmanyIndians[Pg443]painttheirfaces,theirfavouritecolour,asfarasIcouldsee,beingred,thoughoneortwoIobservedhadgiventhepreferencetoamixtureofthatcolourwithblack,averydiabolicalappearancebeingtheresultofthiscombination."WecannotfollowLadyFlorenceDixiethroughallherPatagonianexperiences,whichintheirinfinitevarietymusthavefullysatisfiedhercravingfornewthings.MadamedeHellwasinvitedtovisittheprince'ssister-in-law,who,duringthesummerseason,residedinherkibitkainpreferencetothepalace.Rememberthis,mydeardaughter,somemistressesaretoorestlesswiththeirbunchesofkeys;theyrunaboutthekitchenandthepantry,butitistimelost;awomanwilldowelltotakecareofherhouseholdwithherheadratherthanwithherfeet.Sheneverarrivedatthatperfectibility,whichisseeninmanysmokers,ofswallowingthefumes,orofmakingthempassoutathernostrils.OnherreturnhomeshemetwithasevereblowinthedeathofherbelovedsisterAgatha,whichhadtakenplaceduringherabsence.Richtapestrycoversthewallsandceiling.FromSt.PetersburgtoMoscow,fromOdessatoRevel,heruntiringactivitycarriedher.Sometimesthefootcouldfindnobottom,andwhenwewithdrewitwefoundayawningazure-tintedcrevasse.Theyarenobelieversincleanliness;butdaubtheirbodieswithpaintandgrease,especiallythewomen.Nomanissaidtobeaherotohisvalet;Isupposetheproverbmaybeappliedinthecaseofhisphysician.Atremendousoutburstofrain,thefinaleffortofthetempest,clearedthesky,whichtowardsthewestwasgraduallylightedupwithgleamsofpurplelight,contrastinggloriouslywiththedarknessoftherestofthefirmament.Hourafterhourourheroine—foraladywhocrossestheRockyMountainsalonemaysurelyclaimthetitle!—rodeonwardinthedarknessandsolitude,theprairiesweepingallaroundher,andafirmamentoffrostystarsglitteringoverhead.Whatisverycuriousis,thateachtribehasitsfavouritecolour—thatwhileoneswearsbybluebeads,anotherhaseyesonlyforgreen;sothatatribewhichwillviolateitsconscienceforahandfulofblueoryellowbeads,willpreserveituntouchediftestedbybeadsofanyothercolour.Whenherfollowersunderstoodthatshehadresolvedtoencampthereduringtherainyseason,theyprotestedvehemently,andtalkedofthedangerstobeincurredfromelephantsandlions.Beyondthismarvellousblock,glitteringlikecrystal,spreadastreamofdeliciousfreshness.AmongtheRockyMountainsonesometimesmeetswithstrangecompanions;andonherridefromHall'sGulchtoDeerValleyMissBirdwasjoinedbyahorseman,whowouldhavemadeafineheroofmelodrama.Itwasthreeo'clockintheafternoonwhenhewasinformedthatLadyHesterwasreadytoreceivehim.Nextday,whentheyrestedduringtheheat,theguideofthecaravanendeavouredtoprocureheralittleshelterfromthesun'spitilessglarebylayingasmallcoveroveracoupleofpolesletintotheground;butsosmallwastheareathusprotected,andsoweaktheartificialtent,thatshewascompelledtositimmovablyinoneposition,astheslightestmotionwouldhaveoverthrownit.TraversingColorado,intheneighbourhoodofthePlateRiver,shetellsusthatshe"rodeuponegreatascent,wherehillsweretumbledaboutconfusedly;andsuddenly,acrossthebroadravine,abovethesunnygrassandthedeep-greenpines,roseinglowingandshadedredagainsttheglitteringblueheaven,amagnificentandunearthlyrangeofmountains,asshapelyascouldbeseen,risingintocolossalpoints,cleftbydeepblueravines,brokenupintoshark'steeth,withgiganticknobsandpinnaclesrisingfromtheirinaccessiblesides,veryfairtolookupon—aglowing,heavenly,unforgettablesight,andonlyfourmilesoff.Oneeasilyunderstandsthatthepurseofthetouristwasthefirsttosufferfromthiscircumstance.JohnBullisanaristocrat;Jonathanisademocrat—thatistosay,hewishestobe,andthinksheisone;butitoccurstohimtoforgetitinhisrelationswithpeopleofadifferentcomplexionfromhisown.Butnowitisotherwise.Apartfromthese,theprogressoftheexpeditionwasarrestedbythemalariousfeverwhichattackedherselfandmostofherfollowers.Theriverwasthrongedwithshipsandinhabitedboats—withjunksalmostaslargeastheoldSpanishgalleons,theirpoopsimpendingfaroverthewater,andcoveredinwitharoof,likeahouse;withmen-of-war,flat,broad,andlong,mountedwithtwentyorthirtyguns,andornamentedintheusualChinesemode,withtwolargepaintedeyesattheprow,thattheymaybethebetterabletoseetheirway.Onthesamekindoffloortheyplaymaita,orurumaita.Herpeculiarpositionsuggestedabookthathaswonawell-deservedpopularity—"LifeintheSick-room"(1844).Todonate,pleasevisit:Section5.Asregardstheirstature,Idonotthinktheaverageheightofthemenexceededsixfeet,and,asmyhusbandstandssixfeettwoinches,Ihadafavourableopportunityforforminganaccurateestimate.Herkeenremarksindicatethatshehasbeenaccustomedtogoodsociety.Everybodywhoheardherforanhourortworetiredhumbledfromherpresence,forherlanguagewasalwaysdirectedtobringmankindtotheirlevel,topulldownprideandconceit,tostripoffthegarbof[Pg335]affectation,andtoshamevice,immorality,irreligion,andhypocrisy."WehaveadmittedLadyHesterStanhope'sgreatmentalpowers,butwecanfindnotraceintherecordsofherconversationofsuchextraordinarygeniusasishereindicated.Herhusbandlaughinglyaverredthattheverymoneyintheiron-boundchestswasbrokenbytheviolentfriction,andhisveracity,atfirstimpugned,wasconfirmedbytheexhibitionofahandfulofsilverfilings;apileofpiastreswasfoundparedandgrounddownasifbyafile,andhadthejourneybeenmuchprolonged,"allwouldhavebeenreducedtodust."Asthetravellersadvanced,theyobservedtheincreasingscarcityofvegetation;hereandtheremightbeseenafewtuftsofsaxifrageliftingupamidstthestonestheirrose-tintedposies—arank,thorny,andcreepingherbage—someattenuatedheaths,andinthecrevicesandhollowsoftherocks,alittlecouchgrass.YoumayusethiseBookfornearlyanypurposesuchascreationofderivativeworks,reports,performancesandresearch.1903CONTENTS.Theairwas[Pg138]dimmedasbyaheavyfallofsnow;darknessincreasedanditbecamenight.ThereisavisittoBéranger,thegreatFrenchlyrist,intheprisonofLaForce;andtherearetwomemorabledinners,oneattheComtedeSegur's,witharecordoftheconversation,asgraphicandamusingasifitwerenotontopicshalfacenturyold;theotherisadinneratBaronRothschild's,dressedbythegreatCarême,whohaderectedacolumnofthemostingeniousconfectioneryarchitecture,andinscribedLadyMorgan'snameuponitinspunsugar.ForsomehoursIhadbeenunconsciousoffatigue,andIcould[Pg36]havemarchedforaconsiderablylongerperiodwithoutfeelinganyneedofrest.Passinginsafetythefirstcataract,MissTinné'sflotillareachedKorosko,wheresheandhercompanionstooktemporaryleaveoftheNile,oftourists,andcivilization,andstuckacrossthesandywastesofKoroskotoAbu-Hammed,inordertoavoidthewidecurvewhichtherivermakestotheeastward.Thefaultofthesatiristis,thathereasonsfromparticularstogenerals,whereasthesagaciousobserverwillreasonfromgeneralstoparticulars.Ibreathedwithdifficulty,myweaknessincreased,sothatitwaswithnosmallpleasureIarrivedatthehalting-placemarkedoutbyourforemostparty.Thetwobrothersdesiretobecomerichmen;butJohnBullkeepsforhimselfandhisfriendsthebestandlargestportion.LadyHesterwasconsulted,andsheinstantlyassuredhercomradesinarmsthattherewereindeedanumberofhorseswithinsight,butthattheywerewithoutriders:theassertionprovedtobecorrect,andfromthattimeforthhersuperiorityoverallothersinrespectoffarsightremainedundisputed."Wemayquoteanotheranecdote,becauseithasadoublesignificance,illustratingnotonlythecharacterof[Pg309]LadyHester,butthetemperamentofthewanderingraceoverwhomshesoughttorule.Inajealousfrenzy,notunnaturalinthecircumstances,herhusbandstruckherwithhisdagger,andatthesametimekilledayoungmanwhomforalongtimehehadregardedasafriend.ThroughthemediumofanArmenianinterpreterabriefconversationfollowed,afterwhichshemadesignsthatdancingshouldbegin."Youseethatitisaprettytableaudegenre,worthyofthebrushofMentzel,theGermanpainter,oroftheFrenchMeissonier.Inheropinionitwasagraveinjusticetodenythem,evensuchaswereendowedwithgreattalentsandbrilliantintellectualpowers,suchopportunities."Asithadbecome,"hesays,"ahabitwithhertofindnothingwelldone,whensheenteredherbedroom,itwasrarethatthebedwasmadetoherliking;and,generally,sheorderedittobemadeoveragaininherpresence.Frequentlyoneofthemdelivershimselfofarecitalwithveryanimatedgestures;theotherslistenattentively,butyouseldomseethemlaugh.Hedidnotbelieveawordoftheyoungman'soration,anddeclaredhewouldhandthemovertothecommissaryofpolice.Thespectacle,however,didnotimpressmegreatly,whetherbecauseIwasabsorbedinthethoughtofgainingtheverysummitoftheAlps,orbecausemyimaginationfeltsomedisappointmentinfindingtherealityfarbeneathwhatithadfigured.Therewasanoriginalityinthescenethatstronglyaffectedtheimagination."If,"addsM.Itisintheformercapacitythatsheclaimsaplaceinthesepages.ShesharedhercounselswithtwodistinguishedAbyssinian[Pg203]travellers,Dr.Steudner,aGermanbotanist,andDr.Heughlin,aGermannaturalist,andtheplansofthethreeadventurersweresoonmatured.Theylightedtheirownlampsintheoutercourt,andpassedunquestionedthroughcourtandgalleryuntiltheyreachedtheroomwhereshelay—dead."Itneverfades,"theysaid;"theTurkrenewsitconstantlyinthebloodofthepoorblackman."Theylearnedtodistinguish,however,betweentheslave-dealer'sboatsandAlexinaTinné'ssteamer.Thisyoungcreature,agedtwelve,wasthebrideofthehusbandoffifteen.Thecuriosityhunterswerenextledtotheso-calledHouseoftheSacredSwine.Hereshehiredahorse,andforgreaterconvenienceassumedwhatshestyledher"Hawaiianridingdress"—thatis,ahalf-fittingjacket,askirtreachingtotheankles,andfullTurkishtrousersgatheredintofrills,whichfellovertheboots—"athoroughlyserviceableandfemininecostumeformountaineeringandotherroughtravellinginanypartoftheworld."Throwingoverthesehabilimentsadust-cloak,sherodethroughTruckee,andthenfollowedupthewindingsoftheTruckeeriver—aloud-tongued,rollickingmountain-stream,flowingbetweenrangesofgreatcastellatedandembattledsierras.Neitherthechildnorthepropertywaseverseenagain.Theissueofthecontestwouldprobablyhavebeendisastrous,butfortheopportunearrivalofassistance.Themassesofsnowwhichrosearoundusresembledsomanymountainspileduponothermountains.Ishallnotspeakofthechildren—everybodyknowstheirmannersandcustoms—butconsiderforamomentwhatwouldbecomeofourprettyEuropeanfurnitureifourcooksandmaids-of-all-workrestedfromtheirlaboursonoursetteesandfauteuils,[Pg56]withtheirfeetonourcarpets,andtheirbackagainstourhangings.InformationabouttheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationTheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationisanonprofit501(c)(3)educationalcorporationorganizedunderthelawsofthestateofMississippiandgrantedtaxexemptstatusbytheInternalRevenueService.Bredamidthesightsandsoundsofwartheywentalwayswellarmed,carryingarifle,asabre,alongdagger,whichtheyworeinfront,andapistolinthebelt.Shelivedlikeanindependentprincess,withacourtofherown,aterritoryofherown,anditmustbeadded,lawsofherown;carryingonpoliticalrelationswiththePorte,withBeschirthecelebratedEmiroftheLebanon,andthenumeroussheikhsoftheSyriandeserts."M.Atfirst,Ithoughtthemaperfectrabble;butwhenIrecoveredmyselfalittle,Isawthattherewassomesenseinthefacesoftheelderlywomen.Themaids,however,werevery[Pg344]frightened,assomeoftheseahadgotdownintothenursery,andtheskylightshadtobescreweddown.Thisself-imposedpenance,sorigidlyobserved,maybeaccepted,wethink,asasufficientacknowledgmentoftheerrorsofherthoughtlessyouth.[Pg257]Itmighthavebeensupposedthat,attheageoffifty-nine,thisfemaleOdysseuswouldhaverestedcontentwithherworld-wanderings,andspentthefewremainingyearsoflifeinpeace;butherrestlessspiritcouldnotendureinaction.Roundhernecksheworeawhitecambrichabit-shirt,inshapenotunlikeaman'scollar(fortyyearsago),andfastenedinfrontbyadiamondbutton.Foremostamongsttheseisthewell-knownpastimeofsurf-swimming—apastimetheoriginofwhichitisnotdifficulttounderstand."Inexactlythesameway,"shesays,"astheartistfeelsanunconquerableimpulsetopaint,andthepoettogivefreeexpressiontohisthoughts,sowasIhurriedawaywithanunconquerabledesiretoseetheworld."Andshesawitasnootherwomanhaseverseenit.Itwasaluckyrencontreforus,ashewastheonlyhumanbeingwesawduringthewholeofourdriveofthirtymiles,exceptthepeonwhobroughtusachangeofhorseshalfway.Hermind,however,issokeenandsoincisive,soprompttoseizethemostcuriousfacts,soaptindiscoveringcharacteristicdetails,thatevenwhenshespeaksofplacesandpeopleswithwhomweareallfamiliar,shecompelsustolisten,andirresistiblyholdsourattention.ShewasleftalmostaloneinherLebanonretreat,withonlytheshadowofherformerpower.Theeffectofthecombinationofwinterandsummerwassingular.Theselargervillages,withtheirchurches,andhalfadozenlesserhomesteads,aresituatedontheterracesofthehills,surroundedbycultivatedfieldsandolivegroves.WhenMadamePfeiffervisitedMadagascar,itssovereignwasQueenRanavala,awomannotoriousforherblood-thirstiness,herantipathytoEuropeans,andherpersecutionoftheChristianconverts.Attwopointstheravinenarrowedsoconsiderablythattheentireareawasfilledbythebrawlingtorrent.WebelieveshehaspublishedherWestIndianexperiencesandimpressions.AtAstrakhanthemostdangerousaswellasthemostarduouspartoftheexpeditionofourtwotravellersbegan."ThemovementsofJohnBullarepompous,andsomewhataffected;Jonathan'sfeetmoveasnimblyashistongue.Atthismomentthethunderburst,theavalanchesresoundedamongthemountains,andtheechoesathousandtimesrepeatedthenoiseoftheirfall.Havingfullysatisfiedherselfwithadmiringthelakeanditssurroundingscenery,shewithdrewtoalittlenookthatchedoverwithleaves,whereherguidequicklykindledagoodfireintheIndianfashion.Avelvetcap,trimmedwithsilver,smoothplaitsofhair,cutheart-shapeontheforehead,awhiteveilfallingfromthetopoftheheadandcoveringoverthebosom,andfinally,aredshawlthrowncarelesslyoverthelap—voilàtout!As[Pg91]forthedaughter,shewascharming.Verygracefulistheappearanceoftheplantain,orbanana,whichvariesfromtwelvetofifteenfeetinheight,andhasfinelargeleaveslikethoseofthepalm,butabrittlereedystem,notmorethaneightinchesindiameter.Iaskedakindofvaletdeplacewhoaccompaniedme,whythegavaslosthistimeinattemptingtoconvincethenegress,insteadofforciblyconveyinghertoherdestination.Itwasthe10thofJune,1855.Frequentlythewheelssankbetweenthebrokenplanks,andtheseweremomentsofterribleanxiety;butatlast,bydintof[Pg97]patienteffort,wereachedtheoppositebankinsafety,afterapassageofmorethananhour.Onseaandshore,orintheheartoftheislandgroves,allwasnew,beautiful,striking.InonenightthegrimblastsoftheUralhadsweptawayallthatOctoberhadspared.Theirvoyagewasshort,butitwasnotunmarkedbyincident,bysea-sicknessandsuddensqualls,bycalmmoonlitnights,bysomethingofallthepainandpleasureofthesea.Astophysicaldetails,shesaysthattheKalmukshaveeyessetobliquely,witheyelidslittleopened,scantyblackeyebrows,nosesdeeplydepressedneartheforehead,prominentcheekbones,sparebeards,thinmoustaches,andabrownish-yellowskin.MissMartineau'sgloveswerestretchedandpulledinavarietyofways,intheirattemptstothrusttheirlarge,broadbrownhandsintothem,oneafteranother.Inherpoeticenthusiasm,MadamedeHell,asshegazeduponthecloudlessskyandthecalmblueseaandtheGreekmariners,whothus,onaforeignshore,andafterthelapseofsomanycenturies,retainedthegracefulcustomsoftheirancestors,couldnotbutberemindedofthedeputationsthatwerewonteveryyeartoenterthePiræus,theprowsoftheirvesselsbrightwithfestoonsofflowers,toshareinthegorgeousfestivalsofAthens.'Areyouaware,'saidthey,[Pg42]'thatyondermountainhasneverbeenascended?''Somuchthebetter,'saidI,'wewillbaptizeit!'And,forgettinginamomentmyweariness,Istartedoffwithafirmstep.Sheweptbecauseshehadnotbeenbornaman,sothatshemighthavegirdedonhersword,andjoinedhercountry-mentofightinthecauseofrightandfreedom.Thiscolossaldefensiveworkconsistsofdoublecrenelatedramparts,lockedtogether,atintervalsofabout100yards,bytowersandotherfortifications.Onthe28thofJunethecaravanreachedErbil,ancientlyArbela,thesceneofoneofAlexandertheGreat'smostfamousvictories.Someoftheservantssometimestalkaboutmyreligion—dynesSytt,astheycallit—andIletthemtalk;fortheyexplainittopeoplebysayingitistodowhatisright,andtoavoidalluncleanliness.Mistsclothedthehorizon.Ofcoursethesheikhprofessedhisobjectiontoherdetermination,andcandidlytoldherthatthough,ifsheleftthem,theywouldbeinstantlyabletonegotiatetheconditionsofanarrangement,yettheycoulddonothingforher,andthattheenemy'shorsemenwouldsweepthedesertsocloselyastorenderimpossibleherescapeintoanyotherdistrict.Sherosefromherseatveryformally,utteredafewwordsofwelcome,pointedtoachairplacedexactlyoppositetohersofa,attwoyards'distance,andremainedstandinguptothefullofhermajesticheight,perfectlystillandmotionless,untilhehadtakenhisappointedposition.Nearthefootofthebedstoodanupright,ill-madewalnutwoodbox,withapieceofgreencalicodependingbeforeit.Herstaturedidnotexceed—nay,wasbelow—theaverage,andtherewasnothingmasculineinherfaceorfigure.Shegavetotheworldin1840hersecondnovel,"TheHourandtheMan,"foundedontheromantic[Pg409]careerofToussaintL'Ouverture;andcomposedtheadmirableseriesofchildren'stales,knownbythegeneraltitleof"ThePlayfellow."Thesefourvolumes,"SettlersatHome,""ThePicnic,""FeatsontheFiord,"and"TheCroftonBoys,"showheratherverybest.Whilethedancingwenton,andthesmokinganddrinkingcoffeeandsherbet,andthesinging,totheaccompanimentofatambourine,somehideousoldhagscameinsuccessively,lookedandlaughed,andwentawayagain.Thepeoplegatherthemselvesclosetogetherbythewallsofthehouses;apausesucceeds,andthenaloudexultingshout,whichrunslikewildfirealongthe[Pg160]Corso;andfromthePiazzadelPopolospeeds,inflyingcareer,alittletroopofsmallhorses,adornedwithgold-paperwingsorflags.Certainly,LadyHesterStanhope'smedicalattendantdoesnotforgettoexposeherweaknesses.Allnatureseemedtobepreparedforthereceptionofwinter—thateternalruleroftheNorth.Butitwasnotuntilsheproducedherstrikingpictureof"TheH——Family"thatthepublicrecognizedthefullextentandclaimsofhergenius.Allsangmerrilyastheymarchedforth,butthosewhoremainedlookedsadlyafterus.Ateamsterbadehergoforwardtoaplacewherethreetrackswouldbeseen,andthentotakethebest-travelledone,steeringallthetimebythenorthstar.Thelastdishpresentedwasanenormouslacquerboxofrice,fromwhichallthebowlswerefilled—thericebeingthencecarriedtothemouthofeachguestbymeansofchopsticks,intheuseofwhichitisonlypracticethatmakesperfect.Thenegressansweredonlywithsobs,andthecry,'Killmerather!'Thegavasresumedhisenthusiasticandfancifuldescriptionsofthegoodbed,thegoodcheer,thefineclothes,thepipealwaysalight,thefloodsofcoffee,allthedelightswhichwouldconvertthisprisonintoacompleteparadise.Thereissomethinginthenatureoftraveltostimulateratherthansatisfytheappetite,anditdoesnotseemthatanywhohaveonceenteredonthevocationareableorwillingtowithdrawthemselvesfromit.Ontheotherhand,sheisdeficientinsympathy;shejudgesratherwiththeintellectthanwiththeheart,whichisatleastasnecessarytotheformationofafairandintelligentopinion.Intheneighbourhoodshehiredahouse,andbeganthestudyofArabic,whilebusilypreparingforherSyriantravels.Theimpressionitmadeuponherwasprofound.Havingrecoveredpossessionofherestates,thankstotheamnestyproclaimedbytheEmperorFrancisJoseph,shesoughtinliterarylabourafieldfortheactivityofherrestlessintellect.Wesubjoinsomeextractsfromherjournals:—"Isetoutonhorsebackthismorning,"shesays,[Pg274]"accompaniedbySirFrederickBruceandmyhusband,tomakeatouroftheChinesetown;ourescortconsistedonlyoffourEuropeanhorsemenandtwoTing-tchaï.Itssketchesareverybrightandamusing,anditsnaïveegotismwaspardonable,consideringtheflatterieswhichParisiansocietyhadheapeduponitsauthor.Thespectaclewassublime.TheRussianofficer,whoactedasourcicerone,pointedouttousacrosscarvedabovethemantel-pieceofthebedroom.Trollopethetraveller,butoftheindustryofMrs.Everydomesticservanthashisorherownhorse,asamatterofcourse;andthemaidsareallprovidedwithhabits,inwhichtheyrideaboutonSundays,fromoneestanciatoanother,topayvisits.1.F.5.Somestatesdonotallowdisclaimersofcertainimpliedwarrantiesortheexclusionorlimitationofcertaintypesofdamages.Nextday,intheafternoon,theyroundedUshant,atthedistanceofamileanda-half:"theseawastremendous,thewavesbreakingincolumnsofsprayagainstthesharpneedle-likerocksthatformthepointoftheisland."Twodayslater,Mrs.IutteredacryofjoywhenPierreBohrenappeared,amanoflowstaturebutthicksetlimbs,andJeanAlmer,whowastallandrobust.Greatconfusionfollowed,asnoonewaspreparedforthispoint-blankpoliteness,somysteriouslyorganizedbytheChineseservants.Whenthisstorywastoldtome,IremarkedthatthejudgemusthavebeenbribedbytheMarseillaise,sincenothingcouldhavebeeneasierforhimthan,ifhewishedit,tohaveherarrestedbyhisguards,anddeprivedofthepaperwhichshehadcarriedoffwithsomuchaudacity.Ourfirstvisit,withLadyBrasseyasourguide,shallbetothemarketatRiodeJaneiro.[28]Thegreatestbustleandanimationprevailed,andtherewerepeopleandthingstoseeandobserveinendlessvariety.Hencethecontinualeffectofglitteringlight.Afewhourslater,andthevesselwasagainindanger,thewaterpouringinwithgreaterviolencethanbefore.Butifsuchbenotthecase,"umbregades"mustbeplanted;thatis,aleafyplant,growingtotheheightofeightorninefeet,theleavesofwhichcontinuallyfalling,[Pg259]decay,andfertilizethesoil.Shesaysofherselfthatshewaslivelierandhardierthanevenherelderbrothers,whowerelivelyandhardybeyondmostboysoftheirage.OntheoppositesidetheycoulddistinctlyseetheTierradelFuego,andatdifferentpointstallcolumnsofsmokerisingupintothestillairdenotedthepresenceofnativeencampments,justasMagellanhadseenthemfourcenturiesago,whenhegavetotheisland,onthataccount,thenameitstillbears.Theyareacollectionofsorceresses,whomIfearedmorethanthemenofthesameclass,thoughthelatterassuredlydidnotinspiremewithmuchconfidence.Mirrorsandsilkenhangingsembellishthesides,whiletheenchantingsceneiscompletedwithaliberalstoreofglasschandeliersandcolouredpaperlanterns,interspersedwithlovelylittlebasketsoffreshflowers.Acoupleofblackslavesappearedatasignal,and[Pg321]suppliedtheirmistressandhervisitorwithlightedtchibouquesandcoffee.Iwasgraduallypassingintoadelightfuldizziness,whenadisquietingthoughtsuddenlyrestoredallmyenergy:Iwaslyingonaheapofragsandtattersofallcolours,andcertainlythekangpossessedotherinhabitantsthanmyself.Herimmenseexpendituretolduponherfortune,anditsgradualdiminutioncompelledhertowithholdthepresentsshehadformerlybestowedwithsolavishahand."David,"shesays,"didnotriseearlierthanItoseethedaybreak[Pg169]overtheshoresofPalestine.Shewouldenvyattimestheconditionofapostilion,[Pg219]andthesightofatravellingcarriagewouldsetherdreamingforhours.FromTongaMissCummingwasconveyedtoSamoa,whereshewasveryhospitablyreceivedbytheSamoannotables,andmighthaveenjoyedherselfgreatly,butforthecivilwarinwhichthegroupisalwaysplunged.G.,wearetold,wascompelledtowithdrawherlaceveil,andthentoremoveherbonnet;thestreet,shewasinformed,wastheplacewheretheveilshouldbeworn,andnottheinteriorofthehouse.Tocrossthelakethetravellermusttrusttohisswimmingpowers,ortoacuriouslyfrailkindofboatwhichthenativesconstructonthespotwithequalskillandrapidity.SomepersonsmaintaineventhatBrotherJonathanisJohnBullstrippedofhiscoat,anditiswiththisAmericansayingthatItakeleave,forthepresent,ofJohnBullandhisbrotherJonathan."ThemannersandcustomsmostopposedtoEuropeanideasfoundfavourintheeyesofFrederikaBremer,whenshethoughtshedetectedinAmericanusagestheelementsofprogressandliberty.Westrolledaboutforalongtime,tooksomephotographs,admiredthelovelypanoramicviewfromthetop—overthetownofAthenstoEleusis,Salamis,andCorinthononeside,andfromMountPentelicusandMountHymettustotheElysianFields,tilloureyeswanderedroundbytheancientharboursofPhalisumandPiræus;backagainbytheStreetofTombstoAthens,lookingmoredustyandmoregreythaneveraswegazeddownonitsgrey-tiledroofs.1.F.4.Exceptforthelimitedrightofreplacementorrefundsetforthinparagraph1.F.3,thisworkisprovidedtoyou'AS-IS'WITHNOOTHERWARRANTIESOFANYKIND,EXPRESSORIMPLIED,INCLUDINGBUTNOTLIMITEDTOWARRANTIESOFMERCHANTIBILITYORFITNESSFORANYPURPOSE.Theirtalkisofpriestsandofmissions;oftheprofitsoftheirlastsale,oftheirhopesfromthenext;ofthedoubtwhetheryoungMr.ThisoryoungMr.ThatshouldreceivethefruitsofittofithimoutforSiberia;oftheveryuglybonnetseenatchurchonSabbathmorning;oftheveryhandsomepreacherwhoperformedonSabbathafternoon;andoftheverylargecollectionmadeonSabbathevening.Dressedinragsorinbrocade,sheneverfailstoassume,spontaneouslyandwithoutthoughtofdisplay,themostgracefulandpicturesqueattitudes.Greatwasourjoywhenwefoundourselvesoncemoreinanatmospherefavourabletothelifeofvegetation,andallofusrushedheadlongtothefirstbrook,whosemurmursoundedassweettousasthevoiceofafriend.Inthesummerof1853,whenthecholeradevastatedStockholm,Frederikabecamepresidentofasocietyofnoblewomen,whoseaimitwastotakechargeof,andprovideahomefor,thosechildrenwhowereorphanedbytheterribleepidemic,andtogiveassistancetofamiliesinwhichthefatherormotherhadbeentakenaway.Aboutthesametimeherparentsplacedhereducationinchargeofayoungprofessor,who,recognizingthehighqualitiesofherill-regulatedcharacter,sethimselftoworktodevelopandmaturethem.Beyondallpraisewasthegenialityofthetwoladies.Whenwerememberthatthesesavagesarecannibals,thattheyhadneverbeforeseenamongthemanEuropeanwoman,andthatIdaPfeifferwentwithoutguardorguide,webegintorealizethefullextentofherdaring.Trollopeaversthat,whenshevisitedFrance,itwasimpossiblefortwopersonstocarryonaconversationforaquarterofanhourwithoutintroducingthewordsrococoanddécousuascoreoftimes.Intheirmannersandcustomstheyretainmoreoftheprimitivesimplicitythanisfoundnow-a-daysinmostofthePolynesianislands.Whenthiswaswantingwecontrivedtobalanceourselvesontherockbythehelpofouralpenstocks,havingrecourseasseldomaspossibletooneanother'sarms,forfearofdraggingthewholecompanyintotheabyss.DeserfounduponthecrestoftheJungfrau."Mythirstwaskeen,andIdrankwithaviditytheodoriferousbeverage,whichseemedtomeexcellent.Thelakeitselfwasnotvisibleuntiltheycameuponitsverymargin,foritliesdeepdowninadarkhollowamongloftyprecipices,which,withstartlingabruptness,descendtotheedgeofthedarklingwaters.Thosewhobenefitedbyitspreadherpraisesineverydirection,sothathercomingwaseagerlylooked[Pg191]for,andhospitalitypresseduponherwithaneagernesswhichmayhavebeeninspiredbyselfishmotives,butwasnotthelessagreeabletohercompanionsorherself.Thecarriagessuppliedweretarantas,orlargepost-chaises,drawnbysixhorses,andtelagas,orfour-wheeledwaggons.Iceasedtothinkofanythingbutthesnowywildernesseswhichcrowntheloftymountainsummits.Thoughfedbynumerousstreamsithasonlyoneoutlet,theAngara,atributaryoftheYenisei.Providentially,however,hehadtakenadoubleturnroundhiswristwithareefingpoint,andthrowinghisotherarmroundMabelle,heldonlikegrimdeath;otherwisenothingcouldhavesavedthem.Trollope'sstrengthlayinherfacultyofobservation,andherstrong,pungenthumour.Then,asifbymagic,sherecovered,andresumedherfavouritegames.Then,throughamazeofravines,shestruckoffintotheinterior.Thecountenanceispale;thefeaturesareregular—evenhandsome—all[Pg158]exceptthemouth,whichislarge,withlargeteeth,anddevoidofagreeablesentimentwhenspeaking.Trollope,abarrister,andthecaresanddutiesofmarriedlifeforsomeyearsdivertedherenergiesintoadifferentchannel.Ayellowcap,edgedwithrichfur,andfashionedlikethesquarecapofaFrenchjudge,wassetjauntilyonthecrownofherhead.OveracostlyrobeofPersianstuff,lacedalloverwithsilver,sheworealightsilktunic,openinfront,anddescendingonlytotheknee.In1868sheproceededtoMartinique,wherehereldestsonhadforsomeyearsbeenestablished.Atcertainintervals,conicalmoundsofearth,aboutsixtyfeethigh,stoodconspicuous—watchtowers,wheresentinelsarestationeddayandnight.AndinthisignoranceliesoneoftheprincipalcausesofOrientaldegeneracy;fortheyoung,beingbroughtupinthepollutedatmosphereoftheharem,undergoafatalenervationofbodyandsoul,andimbibethegermsofthemostfatalvices.Adescriptionofthebedchamber,which,formostpurposes,wasLadyHester'sprincipalapartment,weshallnowsubjoin.HotSaki,Pipes,andTea.No,itisnotgoodtobehere,andthesocietyoftheTitansismoreagreeableforasimplemortalatagreaterdistance!...Nowhereelseistheresuchaudacity,suchfiercenessevenofoutline,coupledwithsuchmultiformsplendourofcolour,suchfairy-likedelicacyofdetail.Section3.LamennaisandVictorHugoshestigmatizesasdécoususoftheworstkind,andplacestheminthesamerankasRobespierre.Uncoveringhermouth,theybegantoquestionherclosely;andMadamePfeifferunderstoodRussiansufficientlytobeable,inreply,totellthemhername,nativecountry,andherobjectintravelling.Herrestlessandadventurousspirit,however,couldnotlongenduretheburdenofinaction.Thenwecouldhearnolongerthevoiceofmen,northebellofthechurchofGrindelwald,whosemelancholynotesthewindhadhithertowaftedtous.Itwasthiscomprehensiveandsearchingfaculty,thisintuitivepenetration,whichmadehersoformidable;forunderimaginarynames,whenshewishedtoshowapersonthathischaracterandcourseoflifewereunmaskedtoherview,shewould,inhisverypresence,painthimsuchapictureofhimself,indrawingtheportraitofanother,thatyoumightseetheindividualwrithingonhischair,unabletoconcealtheeffectthewordshadonhisconscience.Itmayonlybeusedonorassociatedinanywaywithanelectronicworkbypeoplewhoagreetobeboundbythetermsofthisagreement.Herenaturerevelsinmanifoldcreation.InGreece,ItraversedonhorsebackthesolitudesofthePeloponnesus.Kinglake,whiletravellingintheEast,madehiswaytoLadyHester'sLebanonretreat.Forabouttwohourswesawnosignsoffertility;butwethenbegantopassthroughvineyards,cotton-fields,andpomegranates,oliveandorangetreeplantations,tillwereachedthehouseofarichArmenian,whosebrotherisoneoftheinterpretersatthecamp."AccompaniedbytheofficiatingBrahmin,thewidowwalkedseventimesroundthepyre,repeatingtheusualmantras,orprayers,strewingriceandcowriesontheground,andsprinklingwaterfromherhandoverthebystanders,whobelievethistobeefficaciousinpreventingdiseaseandinexpiatingcommittedsins.Butafatalblowhadbeengiventoherconstitution;thefeverbecamelessfrequentandlessviolentinitsattacks,butneverwhollylefther.Occasionallythemonotonouslevelwaspleasantlyrelievedbyclustersofgracioustrees,formingsomanyislesofgreenery,wheretheblandcalmairwasfragrantwiththesweetsubtleodoursbreathedfrommagnificentcactuses,orchids,andirises.Alargeblueshawldescendsbelowtheknee.Inthisroomeverythingismagnificent,butitseffectisneutralizedbythecuriousfashioninwhichthewallsarepainted,theirsurfacebeingcoveredwiththeinventionsofaprolificfancyintheshapeofcastlesandharbours,bridges,rivers,islands—allcrowdedtogetherwithasublimedisregardforperspective—whileinnichesabovethedoorsarecollectedallkindsofchildren'stoys,suchaswoodendolls'houses,fruit-trees,modelsofships,andlittlefiguresofmenwrithinginathousandcontortions.Inspiteofthisdisproportionbetweenmanandwoman,theunion,contractedalmostinchildhood,isonlydissolvedbydeath.Thenightpassedwithoutanyeventfulincident,andonthefollowingmorningsheaccomplishedthereturnjourneyinsafety.ThedayaftertheirarrivalatBalaklavatheyundertookaboatingexcursiontoexplorethegeologicalformationofthecoast,andlandedinadelightfullittlecove,emboweredamidfloweringtreesandshrubs.WefollowedthebanksofthepaleLütschina,whichboundsthroughthemidstofabruptrocks.Thetouchisdelicate,butalwaysfirmandtrue.[Pg129]AstotheHollanders,shesays:—"Thesepeoplehavenottheloveofcleanliness,butitscultus."ReferringtothetwoDutchtownswhicharethemostrigorouslywatchedover,shesays:—"Saardamisapage,andBroekavignette,fromthehistoryofHolland.Thesesmallcarts,withhoodsofbluecloth,carryonlyonepassenger;theyarenothunguponsprings,butaresolidlyconstructed.Satisfiedwithprovidingsocompetentapurveyor,thegovernor,inpresentinghimtothe[Pg83]travellers,said;"Nowmyconscienceisatrest!Igiveyouabravesoldiertoprotectyou,andatravellingcompanionwhowilltakecarethatyouarenotstarvedtodeathinthedesert."FromAstrakhantheypushedforwardtoVladimirofka,atownontheKuma,whichtheyenteredwithagooddealofpompandcircumstance.Inmomentsofperilhisvoiceacquiredadecidedquaver,butheneverpausedinhismarchorinhiscadences,andneverfellbackastep.Noneofthemthoughtofsleeping,norfeltinclinedtorepresstheirnaturalbutmodestgaiety.Nothingoffendstheeye;nothingtouchestheheart;therearenopoor,nosqualidhuts,noindicationofthewretchednessofpoverty.Forsometime,assheherselftellsus,shelivedinakindofmoralandintellectualintoxication;shewasabsorbedinanidealworld,whichbewilderedwhileitdelightedher.Butdreadfulasitisbyday,adeeperdreadattachestoitbynight,whentheglareofthoseleapingfountainsandrollingbillowsofmoltenlavaisreflectedathwartthedarknessofheaven.Belowtheselaybrokenravinesoffantasticrocks,cleftandcanyonedbytheriver,withatenderunearthlylightoverall,theapparentwarmthofaglowingclime,whileIonthenorthsidewasintheshadowamongthepureunsulliedsnow.Whentheyhaltthehorsemendisappear,theshaftsfallabruptlytotheground;andthetravellers,iftheyhavenotagoodstronghold,areprojectedfromthevehicle.Oneofourfriends,anartistofhighmerit,bynomeansdesirousofbeingtakenforthatwhichhewasnot,andvaluingmorehighlyhispersonalreputethanallthetitlesintheworld,couldnotshakeofftherankofprince,whichwelcomedhimateveryvillage.Happilyitisunnecessarytodiscussthesubject,sinceslaverynolongerexistsinAmerica.Afterthesepreliminarypeepsatlovelinessandart,wewentupthelongflightofsteps,pastthePinartheca,andsoonstoodonthetopoftheHilloftheAcropolis,andinfullviewofallitsglories.Eventhenherstrongwillseemedtostayandstrengthenherfailingmind.Aftersomehesitation,theydecideduponembarkinginthesailing-vessels,heavy,lumbering,andbroad-beamedboats,intendedonlyfortheconveyanceofmerchandise,andterriblyunclean.In2001,theProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationwascreatedtoprovideasecureandpermanentfutureforProjectGutenberg-tmandfuturegenerations.Withvigorousstrokeshemadefortheshore.Butwherethereisamortalofhighrectitudeandintegrity,thensuchabeingmaybesupposedtocondescendtoseekhimout.ThatwhichinterestedmemostwastoseethehandsomeRomanwomen,intheirholidaycostume,standinginopenlogesinthelowerstoryofthe[Pg162]houses.Amongtheshowsandspectacles,MadamedeBourboulonwasmoststruckbyaperformanceofShakespeare's"Othello,"inwhichtheherowasplayedbyablackactorfromtheWestIndies(IraAldridge?),whospokeinEnglish,whilealltheothercharactersdeliveredtheirspeechesinRussian.Afterdinner,whichwasoftheusualOrientalkind,butincludedthewineoftheLebanon,hewasconductedintoasmallchamberwheresattheladyprophetess.Thecharacter,customs,andliteratureoftheFrenchfurnishthethemeofaseriesofletters,inwhichthecleverandvivaciouswriterneverfailstocharmeventhosewhomshedoesnotconvince.Thus,wearetoldthat"thenumberofpost-officesthroughoutSouthAustraliais348,employing336officials,besidesfifty-sixothers,whoarealsoengagedintelegraphwork.HONGKONG.OnarrivingatPekintheFrenchembassywasinstalledintheTartarquarter.Thenewsreachedusthroughafewrarefriends,who,contrarytoourexpectation,hadremainedfaithfultous.Withoutanyapparentlandmarkstheywouldtraversehundredsofmileswiththeirflocks,andneverdeviatefromtherightcourse.Itislaidoutintwolongstreets,atthefootofdrearyhills,thesehillsconsistingofapileofrockscoveredwiththinstrataofearthandsand.Hercottageconsistedofasingleroomonthegroundfloor,whichservedasdining-room,drawing-room,andbedroom;itwasadornedwithaguitar,aviolin-case,acollectionofanimals,art-objects,andarms.Theyhadtworoughpots,madeofbark,intheboat,whichtheyalsosold,afterwhichtheyreluctantlydeparted,quitenakedbutveryhappy,shoutingandjabberingawayinthemostinarticulatelanguageimaginable.Wehavealreadyalludedtoherfacultyofpictorialpresentment;itisoneinwhichfewofhersexsurpassher;sheputsascenebeforeuswithasmuchlifeanddistinctnessasaConstableoraPeterGraham,andthereader,whowouldformaclearandwell-defined[Pg430]conceptionoftheRockyMountainsintheirpicturesqueaspects,cannotdobetterthanstudyherlittlebutdelightfulbook.YoucaneasilycomplywiththetermsofthisagreementbykeepingthisworkinthesameformatwithitsattachedfullProjectGutenberg-tmLicensewhenyoushareitwithoutchargewithothers.MadamePfeiffer,andtheothersixEuropeanstheninAntananarivo,wereorderedtoquitthecapitalimmediately.ThispalacehasbeencelebratedbythemuseofPushkin,theRussianpoet;infine,itisnotpossibletodojusticetoitscharms,whichseemtohavepowerfullyimpressedourtraveller'ssusceptibleimagination.In1867,shepublished"LaNazionalitàAlbanesesecondoiCantipopolari;"in1869,"DiscourssurMarcoPolo;"in1870,"Veniseen1867;"in1871-1873,"GliAlbanesiinRumenia,"ahistoryoftheprincelyfamilyoftheGhikasfromthe17thcentury;in1871,acoupleofnovels,"EleanoradeHallingen,"and"Ghizlaine;"in1877,"LaPoésiedesOttomans;"andin1878,"TheConditionofWomenamongtheSouthernSlavs."Theprincess,besidesplungingintohistoricallabours,sedulouslycultivatestheFineArts,andismoreoverafirst-ratepistol-shot.Andsuchanaspectitcertainlywearswhenitistoldbyawoman,asithasbeentoldbyLadyBrassey,oneofthemostadventurousandagreeableoflady-voyagers.Butcarefulwatchingandnursingwardedofftheenemy;andonhersixtiethbirthday,October14th,thedoctorspronouncedheroutofdanger.Sheseldomrosefromherbeduntilbetweentwoandfiveintheafternoon,andseldomretiredbeforethesamehoursinthemorning.Theyputvermiliononthelips,rougeonthecheeks,nose,foreheadandchin,whiteanywheretofillup,[Pg55]blueroundtheeyesandunderthenose.Iaccepteditwithgratitude."Thenoseisgenerallyaquiline,themouthwell-shapedandbeautifiedbythewhitestofteeth,theexpressionoftheeyeintelligent,whiletheformofthewholeheadindicatesthepossessionofconsiderablementalcapabilities.Inasecondtheseacamepouringoverthestern,aboveAllnutt'shead.AtrueAlbanian,shelovesarms,andhandlesthemskilfully.[Pg47]Itcannotbedenied,thatshedeserveshersplendidreputation.Afterseveralyearsofmigratoryenterprise,duringwhichherpretensionsgraduallygrewbolderandstrongerasherownfaithinthemincreased,sheatlengthfixedherabodeinanalmostinaccessiblesolitudeofthewildLebanon,nearSaïd—theancientSidon—aconcessionoftheruinedconventandvillageofDjoun,asettlementoftheDruses,havingbeengrantedbythePastorofSt.Jeand'Acre.Theviewfromitismagnificent,overlookingaworldofmausoleums,pagodas,temples,andkiosks,whichthegreattreeshadconcealedfromus.Theenergyofhertemperandtheextraordinaryforceofhercharacterfoundexpressioninexaltedreligiousideas,inwhichthe"illuminationism"ofEuropewasstrangelyblendedwiththesubtletiesoftheOrientalfaithsandthemysteriesofmediævalastrology.Eachdeepgorgeormountain-valleybloomswithfoliage;theslopesarehungwithstatelytrees,gracefulshrubs,andmassesofcreepingandclimbingplants;fromcragtocragfallsthesilverofminiaturecascades.Mostofthehousesarebuiltofearthorclay;butthosebelongingtothecityitselfmust,byroyaldecree,beconstructedofplanks,oratleastofbamboo.Ineachthescientificworldreceivedherwithopenarms.Intheeveningthegentleman,beingasavant,goestotheWisterSociety,andafterwardsplaysasnugrubberataneighbour's.Travellershavegoodreasontofearthefirstsnows,which,astheyarenotfirmenoughtobearasledge,arealmosteveryyearthecauseofmanyaccidents.Ithasbeenremarkedthatifaspiritlikehers,sodaring,sopersevering,sotenacious,hadbeengiventoaman,historywouldhavecountedaMagellanoraCaptainCookthemore.Moreover,sheindulgesinnoconjecturesregardingthesubjectsshetakesup,shehasinvestigatedthemcarefully,andunderstandsthemthoroughly."TheBedawun,sooftenengagedinirregularwarfare,strainshiseyestothehorizoninsearchofacomingenemyjustashabituallyasthesailorkeepshis'brightlookout'forastrangesail.Theflagwasofthreecolours,white,yellow,andblue,andborethebelovednameof'Wallachia,'embroideredinlargeletters."Alongthecourseofthelittleriverswhichseamedtheground,therewerevillagesandnarrowbeltsoftilledland,withgardensandfruitfulvineyards;butforthemostpartthisneglectedCrim-Tartarywasawildernessofsteppeorofmountain-range,muchclothedtowardsthewestwithtallstiffgrasses,andthestemsofafragrantherblikesouthernwood.Shelearnedthatthesugar-caneisnotraisedfromseed,butthatpiecesofcaneareplanted.Nextmorning,MajorWarburtonexploredthespaciousgardens.TheworkofDorad'IstriauponGermanSwitzerlandislessdescriptivethanphilosophical.For,whenyouarelookingdown,andhappentoraiseyourhead,andthereisthe[Pg337]angelstandingbeforeyou,youcan'tsaywhetheritcameupthroughtheearth,ordownfromthesky,orhow—thereheis,andmaygointhesameway.ThenativeslookeduponeverywhitemanasaTurkandaslave-dealer;andwhenaboatappearedonthehorizon,terror-strickenmotherscriedtotheirchildren,"TheTourké,theTourkéarecoming!"Thescarletfez,ortarbouch,wasregardedwithpeculiaraversion."ThoughtheacclivitywasmuchsteeperthanthatoftheEiger,wedidnotfindthedifficultiesmuchgreater.Thepurplesunroseinfront.Theriverbroadenedasheadvanced,itsentirebreadth,however,notbeingdiscerniblefromtheboat.Theladiesweresufferingfromfever;butasupplyofprovisionshavingarrivedfrom[Pg208]Khartûm,theysetout,undismayed,forBongo.[Pg429]Thedescent,asfarasthe"Notch,"wasnotlesslaboriousorpainfulthantheupwardefforthadbeen;andwhenMissBirdreachedtheirformercamping-groundshewasthoroughlyexhaustedwithfatigueandthirst.ThisfreechildofNaturewillletyoutreathimasarudebarbarian,butinhimselfhedespisescivilizedman,whocreepsandcrawlslikeawormaboutthesmallcorneroflandwhichhecallshisproperty.Thisentourage,andthehabitoffastingfrombooksandnewspapers,wasquiteenough[Pg326]tomakeherafacilerecipientofanymarvellousstory."[24]AfterLadyHester'sdeath,avisitwaspaidtotheplacewhichhadbeenherresidenceforsomanyyears,byMajorEliotWarburton,theaccomplishedauthorof"TheCrescentandtheCross."Hespeaksofthebuildings,thatconstitutedthepalace,asofaveryscatteredandcomplicateddescription,coveringawidespace,butonlyonestoryinheight;courtsandgardens,stablesandsleepingrooms,hallsofaudienceandladies'bowers,allstrangelyintermingled.InformationabouttheMissionofProjectGutenberg-tmProjectGutenberg-tmissynonymouswiththefreedistributionofelectronicworksinformatsreadablebythewidestvarietyofcomputersincludingobsolete,old,middle-agedandnewcomputers."Skinsofsuchdazzlingpurity,eyelashesofsuchlength,abloomofyouthsodelicate,Ihadneverbeforelookedupon.1.E.4.DonotunlinkordetachorremovethefullProjectGutenberg-tmLicensetermsfromthiswork,oranyfilescontainingapartofthisworkoranyotherworkassociatedwithProjectGutenberg-tm.Howevercarefullythetraveller'swaresmayhavebeenpacked,theyareinfalliblydamaged;andMadamedeBourboulonsaysthattheystrewedthedesertwiththewreckoftheirwardrobeandtheirlinen.WecouldperceivethechâletsofGrindelwald,likeminiaturessprinkledoverthegreensward.Thewomenweremostlyoftheordinaryheight,thoughInoticedonewhomusthavebeenquitesixfeet,ifnotmore."LadyFlorencespeaksofthefeaturesofthepure-bredTchuelche,orPatagonianaboriginalasextremelyregular,[Pg442]andbynomeansunpleasanttolookat.Shortlyafterwards,whenshewishedtodine,shecouldobtainnothingbutlukewarmwater,breadsohardthatshewasobligedtosoakitbeforeitwaseatable,andacucumberwithoutsaltorvinegar.Notunfrequentlyyouwillseeveryyounggirlswiththefaceframedinsilver[Pg176]money,tocorrespondwiththeirhead-gear—asmallcaporhoodembroideredwithTurkishpiastres,setasclosetogetherasthescalesofafish.(ThisfilewasproducedfromimagesgenerouslymadeavailablebyTheInternetArchive/AmericanLibraries.)YOKOHAMA.JohnBullmarches,Jonathanruns.Thebodyofherhusband,wrappedinrichkincob,wasthencarriedseventimesroundthepile,andfinallylaidacrossherknees."ThismorningIwasseatedatmydesk.Thetrailroseonthenorthsidethewholetime,andthesnowlaydeepandpurewhite,whilenotawreathofitlayonthesouthside,whereabundantlawnsbaskedinthewarmsun."[43]Thereissomethinginthemajestyofmountainscenery,intheloftypeaks,theshadowyravines,andthetremendousprecipices;intheglowandlightandglorywhichthesunpoursoutupontheheights,andthestrangegloomandhaunteddarknesswhichsleepinthemysteriousdepths,thatdeeplyimpressestheimaginationandthethoughtsofmen,andappealstothathigher,purernaturewhichtoooftenliesdormantinus.IaminthebosomofawildUndine,whodrownsheradmirerswhilesheembracesthem—andtheTitansaregrowingeverloftierandbroader,andthevalleyevernarrower,gloomier,andmoredesolate.WerefertoLadyEastlake's"ResidenceontheShoresoftheBaltic,describedinaseriesofLetters,"inwhich,withapolishedpenandaquickobservation,shesetsbeforeusthepatriarchalsimplicityoflifeandhonestcharacteroftheEsthonians.Anew[Pg343]handwassteering,andjustatthemomentwhenanunusuallybigwaveovertookus,heunfortunatelyallowedthevesseltobroachtoalittle.Hermotherstruckher,andbysheerforceheldtheheadofherobstinatedaughtertowardsNapoleon.Andallthesepreparationsbeingcompleted,andeveryprecautiontaken,the17thofMaywasappointedasthedayofdeparture.Shedeterminedonascendingthetributarystreamtoitshighestnavigablepoint,calculatingthatthevoyagewouldnotoccupymorethansevenoreightdays.Thenherbonnetwentround,andwastriedonmanyheads;onemerrygirlwearingitlongenoughtosurprisemanynewcomerswiththejoke.-YoucomplywithallothertermsofthisagreementforfreedistributionofProjectGutenberg-tmworks.AftercrossingtheMerdeGlace,webegantoclimbthesteepslopesoftheZiegenberg.Herfriendlyrelationswithpersonsofverydiverseopinions,whileenablinghertocompareandcontrastagreatvarietyoftheories,didbutstrengtheninher"theideaandsentimentofliberty,whichcanaloneconductsocietytoitstrueaim."Finally,fromtheItalianrevolutionof1848,whichawokeherwarmest[Pg19]sympathies,shelearnedtounderstandthefatalconsequencesofdespoticgovernment,aswellastheinevitablemistakesoffreedom,whenfirstunfetteredandallowedtowalkalone.Buteveryroomhasinitmanyevidencesofthewealthandtasteofitsformeroccupants,andallareadornedwithfountains,andtheglowandgleamofcolour.Ilearnedafterwardsthathewasstillsufferingfromafallwhichhe[Pg28]hadbutrecentlymetwithwhilehunting.Theyoungestwasattiredinatunicofazurebrocade,withsilverornaments;thiswasthesoledifferencebetweenherdressandthatofhersisters.Hewassodevotedtohispupil,thatsheonherpartbecameanxioustoanticipatehiswishes,andneverfeltsohappyaswhenhewassatisfiedwithherefforts.Whenatlengthwequittedthecarriageandhadfollowedourguideforashortdistance,wesuddenlycameuponwhatappearedtobeanenormousriftintheground,whichyawnedbeneathourfeet.ForLamartineshehadstilllessmercy.Greatness,

however,hasalwaystopayapenalty;andifaftertherain-makerhasperformedhisrites,thedroughtcontinues,itisnotunusualforthedisappointedpeopletosurroundtheKodjan'shouse,draghimforth,andsummarilycutopenhisstomach,onthepleathatasthestormsmakenooutwardsigntheymustbeshutuptherein.Lambretifhewishedtoputanyquestiontoher,orifheneededanything,andalsoaddressedafewwordstoMadamePfeiffer."Butassoonaswereachedtherocksfreefromsnow,[Pg44]ourtroublesrecommenced;difficultiesreappeared,andwereevenmoreseriousthanthosewehadmetwithinourascent.Onanoverhangingbranch,definedagainstthesky,wasperchedthetimid,snake-neckedcormorant,withfiery-redeyesfixedonhisslipperyprey;then,plumpasastone,dartedintothewater,abovewhich,afteralonginterval,showedhisheadandneck.Theill-assortedunionwasasunhappyassuchunionsgenerallyare.Verycomplimentary,but,unfortunately,sadlyprophetic!Itisonlyupon"spunsugar"thathernamewasinscribedbyherselforothers.In1878theymadeasecondexcursiontotheMediterranean,revisitingConstantinople,andseeingitinstormandshadowastheyhadpreviouslyseenitinsunshine;andexploringCyprus,whichthenhadbeenbutrecentlybroughtunderBritishdominion.[Pg372]LadyBrassey'snarrativeofherMediterraneancruisesandOrientalexperienceshasthedistinctivemeritsofherformerwork—thesameunpretendingsimplicityandclearnessofstyle,thesamequickappreciationofthingsthatfloatuponthesurface;butitnecessarilylacksitsinterestandspecialvalue.Shekeptbotheyesandearswellopen,andsufferednothingtoescapeherwhichcouldthrowanylightonthemannersandcustomsoftheHawaiianpopulation.Atthesignalayounggirlentered,who,byhermistress'sorders,threwopenafoldingdoor,andimmediatelyIwassilentwithsurpriseandadmirationatthebrilliantapparitionbeforeme.Fearlesslyhadthiscourageouswomanfiredthepile,andnotagroanhadbetrayedtousthemomentwhenherspiritfled."Thepartyconsistedofaman,awoman,andalad;and,Ithink,"saysLadyBrassey,"Ineversawdelightmorestronglydepictedthanitwasonthefacesofthetwolatter,whentheyhandled,forthefirsttimeintheirlivesprobably,somestringsofblue,red,andgreenglassbeads.FriedChickenandBambooShoots.Ifthelandbevirginsoil,onwhichnoformercrophasbeenraised,freshslipsofcanemaybeplantedimmediately,andthuseightcropssecuredinnineyears.Itsvolcanicmountainsarecharacterizedbytheboldestandmostpicturesqueoutlines.Buttherewasnothingbutthewildandlonelyplain,andshefeltakeendesiretoseealightorhearavoice,thesolitudewassooppressive.Yousee,Bessadée,wecannothaveeverythinginthisworld.Theyshowedmeablacktabletattachedtothewallofthechurchwhichcrownstheheights:—AiméMunon,Min.WeowetoherenterpriseaninterestingaccountofthecharacterandusagesoftheDyaks."Ithasjustoccurredtomethatprobablyyouhavenoverydistinctideaoftheshapeofacocoa-palmleaf,whichdoesnotbeartheslightestresemblancetothepalmettesinthegreenhouses.FromStavropol,apleasantandlivelytown,thecapitaloftheCaucasus,ourtravellersjourneyedtowardtheDonwithsingularrapidity,accomplishingthedistanceof316versts,[5]intwo-and-twentyhours.FrommywindowtheviewembracesallJerusalem,thatancientandvenerablecradleofthegrandestmemoriesofhumanity—theoriginofsomanysanguinarycontests,somanypilgrimages,hymnsofpraise,andchantsofsorrow."Everybodyknowswhatconstitutesatraveller'slifeinPalestine:asuccessionofpilgrimagestotheseveralplacesconnectedwithOldTestamenthistory,orwiththelifeofourLord;aconstantrenewalofthosetouchingexperienceswhichsodeeplyimpresstheheartandbrainofeveryChristian.Beneaththegatewaystandthestatuesofwar-gods,eacheighteenfeethigh,withfacesterriblydistorted,andinthemostthreateningattitudes;thesearesupposedtopreventtheapproachofevilgenii.TheotheryoungladyisHelena'ssister."Dorad'Istriawasoneofthosefine,quickintelligenceswhichlookupontheworld—thatis,uponhumanity—as,inthepoet'swords,"Theproperstudyofmankind.""Ithasalwaysseemedtome,"sheonedayobserved,[Pg23]"thatwomen,intravelling,mightcompletethetaskofthemostscientifictravellers;for,asafact,womancarriescertainspecialaptitudesintoliterature.Soinfluentialaconsiderationcarriedtheday.Forinstance,herobservationsupontheelevationofLouisPhilippetotheFrenchthronearemarkedbyaclear,cooljudgment.Wearefilledwithadmirationattheresolutespiritofthiscourageouswoman,who,thoughthetrackateverystepbecamemoredifficultanddangerous,persistedinpressingforward.Hereisanotherandmorestartlingepisode,whichoccurredduringherjourneyfromEsteo"Park"toLongmount,arideof100milesonabittercoldDecembermorning:—"WeallgotupbeforedaybreakonTuesday,andbreakfastedatseven....Themassofgum-treesoneithersidelookedbeautifulintheirfreshsummerfoliage.BecausetheAmericannegro,enlightenedbytheteachingsofChristianitythroughhiscontactwiththewhiteman,will,atsomefuturetime,returntoAfrica,thehomeofhisancestors,amissionaryofcivilization,chargedwiththeglorioustaskofredeemingandregeneratingit.Wehaltedatlastbeforethegreatgatewayabovewhichfigures,thoughonlyforafewdays,thecross,thatnoblesymboloftheLatincivilization."Hereafter,"saysMissBird,"whenIcallupmemoriesoftheglorious,theviewfromthiscamping-groundwillcomeup.TosuchdiscourtesiestravellersinRussianterritoriesaretoooftenexposed.Itisnotsowiththestudiousandliteraryman,whofanciesithelpsreflectionorpromotesinspiration."[27][Pg340]LADYBRASSEY.Iwasforcedtochange[Pg38]myboots,forthoseIhadwornthedaybeforewereinshreds.SuchanincidentisacauseofsorrowandtearsinmostEuropeanfamilies;inChiliitistheoccasionofagreatfestival.Thentheriverbecamebroadandstill,andmirroredinitstransparentdepthsregalpines,straightasanarrow,withrichyellowandgreenlichenclingingtotheirstems,andfirsandbalsampinesfillingupthespacesbetweenthem.Betweeneachcoursealongintervaloccurred,whichwasfilledupwithsongs,music,anddancing,performedbyprofessionalsinginganddancinggirls.Inalldirectionsthegroundwaswhitewiththebonesofsealsandwalruses,lefttherebytheNorwegianorRussianfishermen,whoformerlyvisitedthesehighlatitudesforthepurposeofcollectingoil;forsomeyears,however,theyhaveabandonedapursuit[Pg132]whichwasmuchmoredangerousthanprofitable.WhenshewasthreeyearsoldherfatherremovedhisfamilytothesmallestateofArsta,abouttwentymilesfromStockholm,whichhehadpurchased.Ononeoftheloftiestpeaksrisesanoctagonalbuilding,consistingofacupolarestinguponslendershapelycolumns,whichareencircledattheirbasebyagracefulbalustrade.Sheforgotitwhenshehadalettertowrite,oranyseriousoccupation.Thepainofseparationwasverygreat,butbothknewthatinFrancetherewasnopresentopeningforhistalents,andbothwereagreedthattheirseparationshouldnotbeforlong.Inthecentretheyplacedanotherbrazier,protectedbyasquarewoodengrating,withalargesilkeider-downquiltlaidoverit,tokeepintheheat.Theentireoperationdidnotoccupymorethantwominutes.Itisnot,however,thewomanofletterssomuchasthepatientuntiringfemaletravellerwhomweseektointroducetoourreadersinthesepages.Horsesareusedforalmosteveryconceivable[Pg351]employment,fromhuntingandfishingtobrick-makingandbutter-churning."ThesePolarices,"sheexclaims,"whichnodusthaseverstained,asspotlessnowasonthefirstdayofthecreation,aretintedwiththevividestcolours,sothattheylooklikerockscomposedofpreciousstones:theglitterofthediamond,thedazzlinghuesofthesapphireandtheemerald,blendinanunknownandmarvelloussubstance.Shewasbynomeanspleasedwithitsappearance.Thiswasin1820.[Pg221]Amarriagemadeundersuchconditionscouldhardlyproveahappyone.Itwasthisillimitablepride,thisuncontrolledambition,whichweakenedandobscuredtheelementsoftruegreatnessinhercharacter,acharacterwhichcannotfailtopossessanextraordinaryinterestforthepsychologicalpublic.Shewasreturningfromashortwalk,whencatchingthesoundofapproachingpost-horses,shepausedforamomenttoseethetravellers,whoconsistedofaRussianseatedinanopencar,withaCossackcarryingamusketbyhisside.Oneday,whenIwasoutwalkingwithafriendofmymother,Iaccidentallymetmyoldmaster;bothofusinvoluntarilyhalted,butforalongtimewecouldnotspeak.Themenshaveapartoftheirheads,andtherestofthehairiscollectedintoasinglecluster,whichhangsdownontheshoulders.Bornabout1820,sheistwentyyearsyoungerthanherhusband,whom,in1845,sheaccompaniedinhisexcursiontoSpitzbergen;anexcursionwhichopenedwith,bywayofprologue,arapidtourthroughBelgium,Holland,Sweden,andNorway.Neverwastheresuchasuccess.Thesailors,frightenedbyMohammed'sspeech,refusedtoapproachit;butshelandedwithherusualdecision,attendedonlybyaninterpreter,anofficer,andanescortoftensoldiers.ThenorthwindhasleftRome,andallwindowsareopen.ThegirlslaughinglypointedtoMissBremerasbeingalsoaspinster;whereupontheirhostessthreatenedtowithdraw,declaringherselfoverwhelmed,and,indeed,almostscandalizedbysucharevelation.CaptainLecky,seatedonalargecoilofrope,placedontheboxoftherudder,wasspinningMabelleayarn.Theyoungfigurantefrequentlyextendedherarmsandthrewherselfonherknees,asifininvocationofsomeunseenpower.ThepeasantstookleaveofusassoonaswestruckthepathwhichcreepsuptheMettenberg,skirtingthe'seaofice.'OnlytheTyrolean,accompaniedbyhisyoungguide,remainedwithus.Lifemultipliesitselfamillionfold,thesoilburstswithexuberanceoffertility,andtheprofusionofvegetableandanimallifebeggarsdescription.Onasmalldesertislandsheremainedforfour-and-twentyhourswithoutfoodorshelter,untilhappilydiscoveredbysomeLevantinefishermen,whoconveyedhertoRhodes.Sheaskedseveralyoungwomen,distinguishedbytheireagerandanimatedair,whethertheyhadnodesiretotravelandseeAllah'sbeautifulearth.But,aswehaveseen,shewasawomanwhoknewnotwhatfearwas.FromBalaklavathetravellersproceededtoSevastopol,ofwhichMadamedeHellsuppliesanexcellentdescription,necessarilyrenderedvalueless,however,by[Pg104]theeventsoftheCrimeanwar.Thepatentadmirationwhichhergeniushasexcited,andstillexcites,amongtheArabtribes,isasufficientproofthatthispretendedinsanityisonlyameanstoanend."[Pg317]Inthecourseofconversation,LadyHestersuddenlysaidtoherguest:"Ihopethatyouareanaristocrat;butIcannotdoubtitwhenIlookatyou.""Youaremistaken,madam,"repliedthemanofsentiment,"Iamneitheraristocratnordemocrat;Ihavelivedlongenoughtoseebothsidesofthemedalofhumanity,andtofindthemequallyhollow.Hestormedandscolded,draggedmeoffthepony—formyhandsandfeetwerenumbwithcold—tookthebridle,andwentoffatarapidstride,sothatIhadtoruntokeeptheminsightinthedarkness,forwewereofftheroadinathicketofscrub,lookinglikewhitebranch-coral,Iknewnotwhere.Asservants,whenfatigued,sleepsometimessosoundlyasnottohear,andsometimesarepurposelydeaf,LadyHesterStanhopehadgotinthequadrangleofherownapartmentsacoupleofactivefellows,apartofwhosebusinessitwastowatchbyturnsduringthenight,andseethatthemaidsansweredthebell;theywere,therefore,sure[Pg331]toberoughlyshakenoutoftheirsleep,and,ingoing,halfstupid,intoherladyship'sroom,wouldbetoldtoprepareafomentationofchamomile,orelderflowers,ormallows,orthelike.Besidesthesevenwives,anumberofattendantscameintolookattheEuropeanvisitors,andservethepipesandsherbet;alsoafewladiesfromaneighbouringharem;andapartyofJewesses,withwhomMissMartineauandherfriendshadsomepreviousacquaintance.thepitifulremainsofthebears'banquet.Weworeblueglassestoprotectoureyesfromthedazzlingbrilliancyofthesnow,whicheverymomentbecamelesscompact.Frequently,ahandfulofmossoraclumpofbrushwoodwasoursolesupport,wherewefoundnocracksorcrevices.Below,andonbothsidesofourvilla,spreadoutextensivegrounds,consistingofprivategardensandgroves,separatedfromeachotherbytwowalls,almostconcealedfromtheeyebythenumberoftreesandbusheswhichgrowthereinastateofnatureandwithallitsluxuriance.InanotherdirectionarevisiblethegreenheightsoftheTamarinandtheRempart;inafourthmaybeseenthethree-headedmountaincalledtheTroisMammelles.Thewinds,too,atthisseasonareexcessivelyviolent,andraisethedriftsinterrificwhirlingsnow-storms,whichthreatenthedestructionofthetraveller.Onesawmanylovelyfaces...."LadyHester'sunholyclaimtosupremacyinthespiritualkingdomwas,nodoubt,thesuggestionoffierceandinordinatepride,mostperilouslyakintomadness;butIamquitesure,"saysMr.Kinglake,"thatthemindofthewomanwastoostrongtobethoroughlyovercomebyeventhispotentfeeling.Theyarethefavouriteretreatsofinnumerableanimals—wapiti,bighorn,oxen,mountainlions,thegreatgrizzly,thewarybeaver,theevil-smellingskunk,thecravenwolf,cayoteandlynx,tosaynothingoflesserbreeds,suchasmarten,wildcat,fox,mink,hare,chipmonk,andsquirrel.Asforthemany-colouredointmentwhichtheyusesoimmoderately,theycanregulateitsapplicationonlybyconsultingoneanother,andasthewomenoccupyingthesamehouseareallrivals,theywillinglyencourageoneanotherinthemostgrotesquedaubsofcolouring.Aviolentaltercationensued,becauseoneoftheHagarsofthedeserthadallowedastrangertodrinkbeforeherhusbandhadbeensupplied.Inabouthalfanhourshethrustherdirtyhandsintothewater,andmixedthewholetogether,nowandthentakingamouthful,and,afterchewingit,spittingitbackagainintothepan!Shethentookadirtyrag,strainedoffthejuice,andpoureditoverthefleshinthecaldron.WhenJohnBullhasafitofindigestion,orastrokeofill-luck,hesuffersfromthespleen,and[Pg150]thinksofhanginghimself;whenJonathanhasafitofindigestion,orastrokeofill-luck,hegoesonhistravels.DoublingCapeHorntheyencounteredafuriousgale,[Pg227]whichragedforseveraldays;andsoondiscovered,likeothervoyagers,howlittlethegreatsouthernoceandeservesitsnameofthePacific.Inaregimentfamousforitsbraverywemayunquestionablyconcludethatthemajorityoftherankandfilewillbebravemen;butafewmaybecomposedoflessheroicstuff.Iexperiencedslightattacksofnausea,andadepressionwhichIsoughttoconquerbyrisingabruptlyandgivingthesignalofdeparture.Peoplethrewflowersateachotherfrombalconytobalcony,fromwindowtowindow;andpeopleamusedthemselveswithgrandcomfits,strunguponlongthreadsfastenedtolongsticks,likefishing-lines,whichtheyenticedtheiracquaintance,fromonestorytoanother,tocatch;ortheydeceivedtheboysinthestreetswiththesesametemptingbaits,whichthenextmomentweresnatchedupagain.[Pg48]THEPRINCESSOFBELGIOJOSO.In1819thebook-making[Pg380]couplerepairedtoItaly,and,ofcourse,asojourninItalymeantabookuponItaly,whichLordByrondeclaredtobeveryfaithful.Havingdisposedofalltheirvehicles,theytransformedthemselvesintoEuropeantourists,withnootherincumbrancesthanboxesandportmanteaus.[Pg273]Thewinterof1860-61MadamedeBourboulonspentquietlyatTien-tsin,herhealthnotpermittingher,insuchrigorousweather,tomakethejourneytoPekin;butonthe22ndofMarchthewholelegationsetoutfortheChinesecapital,MadamedeBourboulontravellinginalitter,attendedbyherphysician.Themomentshecameoutintotheopen,fiveorsixmountedmen,armedwithlonglassoes,rushedintothemiddleofthetaboon,orherdofhorses,collectedforthepurpose,keepingtheir[Pg77]eyesconstantlyontheprincess'sson,MadamedeHell'scompanion,whowastopointouttheanimaltheyshouldseize.Theyateandsleptintheircarriage,anddidnotalightuntiltheyreachedtheriver-side,whereeverykindoftribulationlayinwaitforthem.DuringtheinsurrectionaryfeveratRome,in1849,shefearlesslymadeherwayintotheverymidstofthefighting-men,andinherownpersondirectedtheambulances.Theycalledforchampagne,andemptiedthebottle,holdingeachother'shand.Itisthiswhichmakesherbooksoenjoyable.Hercuriositygreatlyexcited,MademoiselleJacquemartsaidtoheronherdeparture,smilingly,"Queenorshepherdess,leavemeyourname,thatitmayalwaysrecalltomeoneofthemostdelightfulsouvenirsofmyhermit-life.""Well,"repliedtheunknown,inthesamespirit,"passmeyouralbum,andyoushallknowmeasaverysincereadmirerofyourmerit."Sheimmediatelywroteafewlinesinthealbumand[Pg117]departedinhaste,whileMademoiselleJacquemartwasreadingthefollowingquatrain,improvisedinherhonourbythePrincessRadzivil:—"ReineoubergèrejevoudraisDanscedouxlieupassermavie,Partageantavecvous,amie,Oumacabaneoumonpalais."[Queenorshepherdess,IfainInthissweetspotmylifewouldspend,Sharingwiththee,gentlefriend,Orpalacegrandorcottageplain.]BeforequittingtheCrimea,MadamedeHellvisitedanotherdistinguishedwoman,alsoasolitary,who,inaterriblytragicscene,hadnearlylostherlife.Sheperceivesmorequicklythanmaneverythingconnectedwithnationallifeandthemannersofthepeople.FromOdessatoConstantinoplethesea-distanceisfourhundredandtwentymiles.CharlesYriarte:—"ThesceneliesatSans-Souci,inoneofthecelebratedsaloonswherethegreatFredericksuppedwithVoltaire,d'AlembertandMaupertuis.TheHillofPnyxroseonourright,andtheAreopagus,whereSt.Paulpreached,onourleft.Atowerofconsiderablealtitude,withaterracefrontedwithgratingsthatcanberaisedorloweredatwill,overlookstheprincipalcourt.Hereyebrowswerefrightful—joinedtogetherandextendedbyblackpaint.ShrimpsandSeaweeds.Previouslyshehadcherishedadeeplovefornature,forthemusicofverse,fornobilityofthought,buthadmadenoattempttodefineandrecordherimpressions.The"HolySea,"asthenativescallit,isthethirdlargestlakeinAsia—about400milesinlength,andvaryinginbreadthfromnineteenmilestoseventy.Alternatelydespondent,dreamy,energetic,enthusiastic,housewifely,suchisthecharacterofFrancisca,andsuchwasFrederika.Butthisexercise,violentandperilousasitlookedtoEuropeans,seemedbutsporttotheKalmuk,whosebodyfollowedeverymovementoftheanimalwithsomuchsuppleness,thatonemighthavesupposedbothsteedandridertobeanimatedbythesamethought.LadyHesterStanhopewasbornin1776.However,hepresidedoverthegathering.WhenMissBremerexpatiatedonthebrillianthopesforthefutureofallItalywhichPiedmont'sadvanceonthepathoffreedomhadawakened,hedidnotdiscouragethem,but,withtheprudenceofthepolitician,refrainedfromanythingmorethanvagueexpressions.Itsmodeofrepresentationhepithilycharacterizedas"heavymachinery."ToMissBremer'snumerousquestionsregardingPiedmontandhisviewsastoitsfuture,herepliedwithkindlysimplicityandabsolutecandour.Withanairofkeensatisfactionthesmokersquaffit,dropbydrop.IhaveheardpersonsspeakverycontemptuouslyofBagtcheSerai.Themusicwassomewhatharshandmonotonous;butawordofpraisemaybegiventothesongsandtothedancing,orratherposturing,fortherewaslittleofthatagilityoffootpractisedbyEuropeandancers.Ihaveseenseveral,"addsourtraveller,"whichwerepricedattwoorthreehorses.Tallmulberrytrees,umbrageousplanes,andashtreesglancedownuponthicketsandhedgesofblossomingmyrtles,oleanders,andtheaguuscactus.EarlyinJanuarytheyreachedRiodeJaneiro,ofwhichshefurnishesapleasantlygraphicsketch,thatgivesatrueideaofherdescriptivepowers.BywayoftheCapedeVerdeIslandsandMadeira,theSunbeamkeptsouthwardtotheEquator,andgraduallydrewnearthecoastofSouthAmerica,untilittouchedattheBraziliancapital,RiodeJaneiro.Themeresightofcertainwordsinabook—wordssuchasTruth,Liberty,Glory,Immortality—rousedwithinmefeelingswhichvainlyIwouldtrytodescribe.Inhissphereofdutyhewasasmuchageniusandanartistastheywere.ReturninginDecember,sheproceededtocompileanarrativeofherexperiences,whichwaspublishedin1843,underthetitleof"TravelsofaVienneseWomantotheHolyLand,"andimmediatelyobtainedaworldwidepopularity.Hewentawaytosuperintendthepreparationsfortheexpedition,andarrangemymasculinecostume,whichconsistedofwoollenpantaloonsstripedwithblackand[Pg27]white,ofacloselybuttonedcoatdescendingtomyknees,ofaroundfelthatlikethatofamountaineer,andapairoflargestrongboots.Someeccentricbeautiespreferthestraightlinetothecurve,anddescribeagreatstreakofblackallacrosstheforehead;buttheyarefewinnumber.Turkishbootsofyellowmorocco,embroideredinsilk,completedhercostume.[Pg314]"Youhavecomeagreatdistance,"saidLadyHestertohervisitor,[21]"toseeahermit;youarewelcome,Ireceivefewstrangers,butyourletterpleasedme,andIfeltanxioustoknowapersonwho,likemyself,lovedGod,andnature,andsolitude.Inthefirstcourtwhichheenteredanumberoffierce-lookingandill-cladAlbaniansoldierswerehangingabouttheplace,acoupleofthemsmokingtheirtchibouques,theremainderlyingtorpidlyupontheflatstones.Wemustpauseinourrapidnarrativetogiveaspecimenortwoofthesketchesshemadeontheway;theywillshowhowastrongandvividgeniuscandealwiththeincidentsoftravel,andwhatarecordofitmaybecomeinthehandsofaskilfulandaccomplishedartist.AsHumboldtsays—"IfintellectualculturehasdirecteditscoursefromtheEasttotheWest,likethevivifyinglightofthesun,barbarismatalaterperiodfollowedthesameroute,whenitthreatenedtoplungeEuropeagainintodarkness.Ceilinganddoorsarerichlygilded;theworkmanshipofthelatterisexquisite.ThiswasLadyHester'sfavouriteresortduringherlife-time,andnow,withinitssilentenclosure,"'Afterlife'sfitfulfevershesleepswell.'"Itispainfultoknowthatinherlastillnessshewasshamefullydeserted.HerfirstvisitsweremadetothegreatcitiesofWesternEurope—Berlin,Amsterdam,Leyden,Rotterdam,Paris,andLondon.Infishing,thehorseisriddenintothewaterasfarashecango,andthenetorrodisthenmadeuseofbyhisrider.Theysuffernohairtogrowontheface,andsomeextracteventheireyebrows.Meanwhile,shewaswhollyignorantofthenatureofthefeelingwhichhadtransformedtherompintoadiscreetandretiringmaiden,until,attheageofseventeen,anunexpectedincidentawakenedhertoit.Thebaretruth,whenatlastitwasmadeknown,wasalmostasmarvellousasanythingfictioncouldinventonbehalfofitsowner.ThefevercontinueditsattacksaftertheirarrivalatBongo,and,tothegreatsorrowofAlexina,carriedoffhermother.DUTTON&CO.Theboywasnearlywashedoverboard,buthemanagedtocatchholdoftherail,and,withgreatpresenceofmind,stuckhiskneesintothebulwarks.Butsuchwasbynomeansthecase.Hereand[Pg448]therewecomeonpatchesofsoftgreenturf,delightfullysuggestiveofrest,beneaththebroadshadowofsomegreattreewithbuttressedroots;butmoreoftenthebrokenraysofsunlightgleamintenthousandreflectedlights,dancingandglancingastheyshimmeronglossyleavesofeveryformandshade—fromthehugesilkyleavesofthewildplantainorthegiantarumtothewavingpalm-fronds,whicharesorarelyatrest,butflashandgleamlikepolishedswordsastheybendandtwistwitheverybreathofair.Stormandwreckandcalm;intercoursewithsavageswholookwithwonderonthewhitesailsthathavecomeupfromtheunder-world;thewashofwatersuponcoral-reefs;theshadowofgreenpalmsuponlonelyisles;strangesea-weedsfloatingonthedeepgreenwave,andflying-fishhuntedbyvoraciousfoes;longdaysandnightsspentunderglowingskies,withoutaglimpseofland;thebreathless[Pg341]eagernesswithwhichsomenewshoreissighted—withsuchincidentsastheseweEnglisharenecessarilyfamiliar,possessingaswedoavastandvariousliteratureofthesea.Toherstillelegantfigurefittedcloselyavestoffurredvelvet.Butthesecomparativelyshortexcursionswerebutpreliminarytothegreatenterpriseofherlife,theprologue,asitwere,tothefive-actdrama,withallitssurprises,hazards,amazingsituations,andstrikingscenes."Betothyhusband,mydeardaughter,liketheraysofthesunwhichyouseeamongthetrees;allowthyselftobeguidedbyhim,renderhimhappyandthouthyselfwiltbehappy,andthouwiltunderstandwhatthereisofgoodinlife;thouwiltbecome[Pg143]ofvalueinthineowneyes,beforeGod,andbeforemen."Tohousewivesandhousekeepersshegivessomeshrewd,sensiblecounsel:—"Itisonlyatintervalsthatyoushouldmakeageneralsurveyofthehousehold;thiskeepsservantsrespectful,andthingsorderly.Hermindpreserveditsclearnessandserenity.Thedancingisutterlydisgusting.[Pg415]AprettyJewessoftwelveyearsolddanced,muchinthesameway;butwithdowncasteyesandanairofmodesty.IbelongedwhollytoHim.1.E.UnlessyouhaveremovedallreferencestoProjectGutenberg:1.E.1.Thefollowingsentence,withactivelinksto,orotherimmediateaccessto,thefullProjectGutenberg-tmLicensemustappearprominentlywheneveranycopyofaProjectGutenberg-tmwork(anyworkonwhichthephrase"ProjectGutenberg"appears,orwithwhichthephrase"ProjectGutenberg"isassociated)isaccessed,displayed,performed,viewed,copiedordistributed:ThiseBookisfortheuseofanyoneanywhereatnocostandwithalmostnorestrictionswhatsoever.Inonerespect,perhaps,hersexwasanadvantage;itappearstohaveensuredheranuniformcourtesyoftreatmentandcordialityofreceptioninthemostremoteplacesandamongthewildestandmostrecklessmen;butitisobviousthatinotherrespectsitmustfrequentlyhavebeenfoundaninconvenienceandevenadanger,haditnotbeenforhertruepatience,herunfailinggoodhumour,andherindomitable"pluck."MissBirdisalsotheauthorofacharmingbookonHawaii,andanotlesscharmingrecordofherwanderingsin"UnbeatenTracksinJapan."Timewas,andnotsoverylongago,whenavisittothewildsofPatagoniaonthepartofanEnglishladywouldhavebeenregardedasawonderfulachievement.ButItalywasnotthenunited;shewasnotstrongenoughtoencounterheroppressor;thebayonetsofRadetzkyre-imposedtheAustriandomination;theprincesswascompelledtofly,andherestateswereconfiscated.Thencesheandhercompanionspassedagainintotheleafywildernesswhichclothesthemountainsideuptoaheightofabout11,000feet,cheered,astheyclimbedslowlyupwardsontheirlaboriouspath,bydelightfulvistasof"goldenatmospheresandrose-litsummits,"suchasbrokeuponthedreamsofhimwhocreatedin[Pg424]hisfancytheGardenofArmida;upwardandonwardthroughtheduskyshade,whichinitselfmaywellimpressaquickimagination.Turningtolookinhisface,shefoundherselfatthesamemomentgraspedroundthewaist—thehatchetwassnatchedfromherhand—andblowafterblowwasrainedonherheaduntilshefelltothegroundinaswoon.Beforetherightandleftaltarsstoodseveralpriests,ingarmentscuriouslyresembling,asdidtheritesalsoresemble,thoseoftheRomanChurch.Besidesthese,theviewincludestheCapsdeGardeduPortLouisdeMocca,LePouce,withitsnarrowpeakprojectingovertheplateaulikeathumb,andtheprecipitousPeterBotte.Intruth,theyareafinerobustrace;well-limbed,ofgreatstrength,andabovesixfeetinheight;notgiants,butmencastinanoblemould,and,physically,notinferiortothehouseholdregimentsoftheBritisharmy.Shetellsusthatonlytwiceinherchildhooddidsheexperienceanymanifestationoftenderness—oncewhenshewassufferingfromear-ache,andherparentswerestirredintounwontedcompassion,andoncefromakind-heartedladywhowitnessedheralarmatamagic-lanternexhibition.[Pg405]Muchmorecarewasshownineducingherintellectualfacultiesthanincultivatingheraffections.Thepersonneloftheexpeditionnumbered200souls,includingtheDutchwomen-servants,anItalianship'ssteward,aTurkishofficer,andtenprivates,besidestwentyBerbersoldiersandseveralArabinterpretersandscribes.d'Ozeroff,whowastoconductthemtoIrkutsk.Thefaceisdelicatelyoval,anditsshapeissetoffbythegold-fringedturban,themostbecominghead-dressintheworld;thelong,black,silkentressesarebraidedfromtheforehead,andhangwavilyoneachsideoftheface,fallingbehindinaglossycataract,that[Pg64]sparkleswithsuchgoldendropsasmighthaveglittereduponDanaë,aftertheOlympianshower.SomenegressesmadeagoodbackgroundtothisthoroughlyEasternpicture.Buttherearehundredsofourowncompatriotswhoarequiteaseagertuft-huntersasthispoorArabguide!JohnBulldearlyloves"alord,"whilebefore"aprincess"hissoulcreepsandgrovelsininfiniteabasement.[Pg171]"ThisridiculousmaniafortitleswhichoverwhelmedtheguideAbhul"is,nevertheless,inM.Onthe1stofMarchouradventuroustraveller,havingresolvedonputtingagirdleroundabouttheworld,tookherpassageforChinaintheDutchbarqueLootpuit,CaptainVanWykJurianse.However,Iregrettedneithermyfatigues,northeresolutionwhichhadcarriedmetothispoint.Theywouldnothalt;theywouldcrossthebridge—thoughnotwithouttakingalldueprecautions.Aftertraversingacourt,agarden,aday-kiosk,withjasminehangings,thentwoorthreegloomycorridors,asmallnegroboyintroducedhimintohercabinet.IfyouwouldunderstandthemildnessandtheserenitywhicharenaturaltotheTurk,youmustobservethepeasantamonghisfields,oratthemarket,oronthethresholdofacafé.In1848sheplungedwithalltheardourofanenthusiasticnature—achildofthewarmSouth—intothatwildrevolutionarymovementwhichsweptoveralmosteverycountryinEurope,rollingfromtheAlpstotheCarpathians,fromParistoBerlin.Therethesignsofitsinsecureconditionweretoonumeroustobedenied.Theyliveunderconditionsthemostunfavourabletotheirdevelopment;oneverysidetheyarehemmedinbyfoes.Whattears,whatconflictsoftheheartandmindhaditnotbeheld!"Thetravellerspassedthroughasuccessionofgardensandwalledenclosures,inthecourseoftheirinspection[Pg109]ofthevariouspavilions,kiosks,andbuildingscomprisedwithintheprecinctsofthepalace.IfyoupaidafeeforobtainingacopyoforaccesstoaProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkandyoudonotagreetobeboundbythetermsofthisagreement,youmayobtainarefundfromthepersonorentitytowhomyoupaidthefeeassetforthinparagraph1.E.8.1.B."ProjectGutenberg"isaregisteredtrademark.Internationaldonationsaregratefullyaccepted,butwecannotmakeanystatementsconcerningtaxtreatmentofdonationsreceivedfromoutsidetheUnitedStates.BeforemyeyestheWetterhornraiseditsscarpedacclivities;totheright,themassesoftheEiger,totheleft,thehugeScheideckandtheFaulhorn.Bothmenandwomenwearalongflowingmantleofskins,whichreachesfromthewaisttotheankle,withalargeloosepiecedependentononeside,readytobethrownovertheirheadswhenevernecessary;thisisfastenedbyalargeflatpin,hammeredouteitherfromtheroughsilverorfromadollar.Atsightoftheflameafiendishshoutofexultationrenttheair,thetom-tomssounded,thepeopleclappedtheirhandswithdelightastheevidenceoftheirmurderousworkburstontheirview;whilsttheEnglishspectatorsofthissad[Pg383]scenewithdrew,bearingdeepcompassionintheirhearts,tophilosophizeasbesttheymightonacustomsofraughtwithhorror,soincompatiblewithreason,andsorevoltingtohumansympathy.PAGECountessDoraD'Istria17ThePrincessofBelgiojoso48MadameHommairedeHell66MadameLéonieD'Aunet126MissFrederikaBremer134MademoiselleAlexinaTinné184MadameIdaPfeiffer215MadamedeBourboulon270LadyHesterStanhope302LadyBrassey340LadyMorgan379Mrs.Gainvard'sexpeditionquittedHammerfest,thenorthernmosttowninScandinavia,andafteravoyageofsomeweeksinduration,approachedthegloomycoastofice-boundSpitzbergen.Formonthsherlifewasinperil,andherreasontrembledinthebalance.Theshadesofeveningfelldarklyoverthevalley,whereIsawbeforeme,initsgloomydepth,abroad,grey-white,immensewallofwater,likedusthurledthunderingdownfromaloftymountain.Notatall;itisthegiftofnature.Theirphysicalstrengthisremarkable;theymay,infact,bedescribedasaraceofAnaks,averagingfromsixtosevenfeetinheight.ShespentnearlytwoyearsintraversingtheterritoriesoftheGreatWesternRepublic,andwaseverywherereceivedwithanenthusiasticwelcome.Macquoid'sentertainingrecordsofhertoursinNormandyandBrittany,andtheArdennes,whereshefoundthescenerywhichgivessomuchpicturesquenessofcharactertosomeofherbestfictions.AftervisitingtheislandofCelebessherepairedtoSumatra,whichisinhabitedbyaraceofmenevenmoresanguinarythantheDyaks,namely,theBattahs,whoslaketheirthirstinhumanblood,andmakeofanthropophagisma"fineart!"Itissaidthatsomeofthetribespurchaseslavesonpurposetodevourthem,while,asamatterofcourse,prisonerstakeninbattleandshipwreckedseamenfallvictimstotheircannibalappetites.Imaginethatfrombeneaththe[Pg359]shadeoffeatherypalmsandbroad-leavedbananasthroughanetworkoffernsandcreepersyouarelookingupontheStaubbach,inSwitzerland,magnifiedinheight,andwithabackgroundofverdure-cladmountains,andyouwillhavesomeideaofthefallofFuatawah."[32]WithnospotthatshetouchedatinherlongoceanwanderingsdoesLadyBrasseyseemtohavebeensodelightedaswithTahiti.Duringherresidencethereshemadegooduseofhertimeandopportunities,studyingthenativewaysandusages,sketchingZulusandKaffirs,interviewingwitchesandwitch-finders,exploringthesceneryoftheinterior,andaccomplishinganexpeditionintotheBush,theresultbeingabookofsome320pages,inwhichnotoneisdullorunreadable.Assoonasshecouldcompletethenecessarypreparations,sheboldly[Pg253]plungedintotheveryheartoftheisland—aregionalmostunknowntoEuropeans.[Pg418]MISSBIRDANDOTHERS.Sheresidedthereforaperiodofnearlysixyears.Thenorthernshoreisgirtbyalineofcliffs;thesouthernshore,brokenupbynumerousnaturalbasins.And,first,therearegiganticmonolithscrownedwithtwelvestonesplacedperpendicularly,andsurmountedbyfiveroofsinvarnishedandgildedtiles;next,amonumentaltriumphalarch[Pg282]inwhitemarble,withthreeimmensegateways;throughthecentralonemaybeseenadoublerowofgiganticmonstersinenamelledstone,paintedindazzlingcolours;finally,youpassintoanenclosurewithagigantictortoiseinfrontofit,bearingonitsbackamarbleobeliskcoveredwithinscriptions."Thetroopsoondividedintotwosections.Hermind,however,recovereditselasticity,andwithitselasticity,itsoldrestlessness;andsheoncemorebegantoprojectfreshschemesoftravel.Section2.SuddenlyIheardinarticulatecriesbehindme,andasIturnedtoascertaintheircause,Ifeltmyselfpulledbythesleeveofmyvest;itwasaMongolianoftheescort,whohadbeensentinpursuitofme.AssoonasMadamedeHellcoulddistinguishthelineofrocksthattracedthevaguehorizon,shebegantolookforCapePartheniké,thetraditionalsiteofthealtarofthegoddess,towhomtheyoungpriestessIphigeniawasonthepointofsacrificingherbrother.MailsaredespatchedbyeverysteamertoMelbourne,andthreetimesweeklyoverland,thelatterjourneyoccupyingninety-sixhours.Adarkbluegroundwithcirclesandcrossesinbrightyellow,orscarletwithyellowanchorsandcircles,alsofindgreatfavour;andthoughtheycertainlysound'loud'whenthusdescribed,theyaresingularlyeffective.TheCossackofficer,withfalcononwrist,andhislongrifleslungbehindhim,rodebythesideofthecarriage,ready,withMuscoviteprecision,totransmitorderstotheescort,andgallopoffattheslightestsignal;whilstthedragomanlolledonthebox-seatwithafineairofcontemptuousindifferencetoeverythingaroundhim.Straightwaythey[Pg71]proceededtohisestateatKherson,andM.Hearingthetrampofhorses'hoofsupontheroad,thenegrodesistedfromhisattack,andsprangintotheforest.Formerlyitwasnotso.OfthosebeautifuldescriptionsofnaturewhichlendsogreatacharmtoMissBremer'sfictionwefindbutfewexamplesinherworkontheUnitedStates.etc.Seek,therefore,topleasereciprocally;butindoingthishaveGodalwayspresentbeforeyoureyes.NordidshepenetratefarenoughinlandtogainasatisfactoryconceptionofthecharacteroftheNorwegianscenery.Inthedistanceroseachainofdeepbluemountains,perpendicularasawall;itwastheJudæanchain.Wesee,too,herknowledgeofthedomesticities,herintimateacquaintancewiththedutiesandresponsibilitiesofhome.InhertourthroughIndiaMadamePfeiffervisitedAllahabad,atthejunctionoftheJumnaandtheGanges;Agra,whereshesurveyedwithadmiringeyesthelovelyTaj-Mahal,erectedbytheSultanJehanasamemorialtohisfavouritewife,andthePearlMosque,renownedforthebeautyofitscarving;Delhi,theancientcapitalof[Pg241]theMoguls;thecave-templesofElloraandAjunta,andthegreatcommercialportofBombay.HeretheQueenwasvisible,havingherseatinabalconyonthefirststory,andMadamePfeifferandherattendantsstoodinarowinthecourtyardoppositetoher.Ifanydisclaimerorlimitationsetforthinthisagreementviolatesthelawofthestateapplicabletothisagreement,theagreementshallbeinterpretedtomakethemaximumdisclaimerorlimitationpermittedbytheapplicablestatelaw.Her"HomesoftheNewWorld"was,perhaps,thefirstdiscriminatingandimpartialworkuponAmericaandtheAmericans.TheresheengagedtheservicesofaTowaregchief,Ik-nu-ken,towhomshehadbeenrecommended,andagreedwithhimtoattendherasfarasGhat;butatthelastmomenthewasunabletofulfilhisengagement,andMissTinnéacceptedtheprofferedassistanceoftwootherchiefs,whoprofessedtohavebeensentbyhimforthatpurpose;itisknown,however,thatthisstatementwaswhollyfictitious,andintendedtobeguile,asitdidbeguile,MissTinnéintoafalsesecurity."Themausoleumiscontinuedintoanimmensecupola,andterminatesinapointedpyramid,coveredwithplatesandmythologicalbas-reliefs.Theirscruplesvanished,however,atthesightoftheWhitePrincess'strinkets.MadamePfeifferwasshownintoaroom,atthedoorofwhichtheCossackstationedhimselfwithhismusket.Ourtravellerwasmuchimpressedbythebeautiesofthetropicalscenery.Oh!thedelightofreposingonaTurkishdivan,inacutstone-builthouse,afterthatlongrideintheburningheat!Truly,thesunofCyprusisasaraginglion,eveninthismonthofNovember.Thehouse,entirelyabandonedbytheBaron,wasinhabitedonlybyaTartar,itsguardian—amanofwildandgloomyaspect,whomthesightofhismistressseemedtostupefy.Theoldludunatooksnuffcopiouslyallthetime,andmademeaffectionatespeeches,whichresultedinthegiftofanoldgreatcoat,whichheassuredmeheneverwouldlivetowearout,becausehewasquiteinahurrytodieandgotothewhiteman'slandnowthathehadseenme."[48]OfalltheEuropeancountries,Hungary,wethink,istheoneleastrepresentedinourEnglishliteratureoftravel,thoughtoEnglishmenitmightseemtohavepeculiarattractions,invirtueofitsromanticscenery,its[Pg459]historicalassociations,andthebrave,independent,andvigorouscharacterofitsinhabitants.WeshouldhaveexperiencedthistempestamongtheloftiestsummitsoftheAlps,ifwehadcontinuedourexcursion.Ifanythingrecallstomymindtheseartificialcaverns,crowdedwithtatteredwomenandnoisychildren,Ifeelreadytofaint."Theprincessdoesnot,onthewhole,speakunfavourablyoftheTurkishcharacter.Thewholecompanybeingoncemorereunited,theypassedthewalledenclosureofthegreatcity,garrisonedbyabodyoftheso-called"ImperialTigers,"andenteredthenorthernsuburb.'How'theyask,'cananyoneapplythenameofpalacetothatclusterof[Pg106]woodenhouses,daubedwithcoarsepaintings,andfurnishedonlywithdivansandcarpets?'Fromthispointofviewtheyareright.Thesecreatureswereactingassentinels,andsunningthemselves.ThebulkofthepeoplewereofTartardescent,butnolongerwhattheyhadbeeninthedayswhennationstrembledatthecomingoftheGoldenHorde;andalthoughtheyyetholdtotheMoslemfaith,theirreligionhaslostitswarlikefire.UnlikethemajorityofIndiantourists,shewenteverywherewithoutanexpensiveretinueofattendants;she[Pg239]hadbutoneservant,yetshecontrivedtogoeverywhere,andtoseeallthatwastobeseen.FromBagdadMadamePfeiffermadeanexcursiontotheruinsofBabylon.Beyond,thevalleyboreawayinasoutherlydirectionuntilitwasclosedinbyrangesofoverlappinghillsoflovelyblue—indigoorcobalt—astheblazeofthesunortheshadowofthecloudsfelluponthem.Themenhardlycondescendtogroomtheirhorses;theyhunt,drinkteaorbrandy,dozeaboutuponfelts,andsmokeorsleep.Asmightbeexpected,theoldpicturesquenessofthenativelifeisfastdisappearingunderthepressureofWesterncivilization,andwehavereasontobethankfultothosetravellerswhodotheirbesttocatchitswaningfeatures,andtransferthemasfaithfullyasmaybetotheprintedpage."Wequickenourstepsinordertoavoidbeingdelayedinthemiddleoftheinterminableprocession.Ifeltavaguefearthattheywishedtointerposesomeobstacletothecompleterealizationofmyprojects;and,infact,theysooncametotellmethatitwouldnotbepossibletoclimbtheJungfrauthatday;thattherewasstillalongmarchtobemadebeforewecouldreachitsbase,which,byan[Pg41]opticalillusion,seemedsoneartous;andthatfromthencetothesummitwouldbeatleastanotherthreehours'climb.Therewasadelightfuloriginalityintheinvitation,andanolessdelightfuloriginalityintheacceptanceofit.Fromamidstthisgarden-paradise,whichoccupiesthewholehigherportionoftheentireextentofthevalley,risehereandtherewhitevillas,withornamentsupontheirroofsandbalconies,withsmalltowers,whichshowamediævalVenetianorigin.Inthisrosylightandbalmyatmospherewasseatedtheprincess,onalowplatformatthefurtherendofthetent,dressedinshiningrobesandmotionlessasanidol.Theroadwasthrongedwithvehiclesofallkinds,horsemen,andpedestrians,allhurryingtothegreatfairofStavropol,andeveryvarietyoftypewhichcharacterizesthepeoplesoftheCaucasus:Circassians,Cossacks,Turcomans,Tartars,Georgians—someinbrilliantcostumes,caracollingontheirhigh-bredPersianhorses,othershuddledupwiththeirfamiliesinhide-coveredcarts,othersagaindrivingbeforethemimmenseherdsofsheepandswine,andothersgravelyleadingatrainofloadedcamels.deBourboulonwastakingwithhimtoFrance.Allthesehadsuperbblackhair,whichescapedincountlesstressesfromafezofsilverfilagree,setlikeadiademovertheirivoryforeheads;theyworegoldembroideredslippersandwidetrousersdrawncloseattheankle.Notasighbrokethedeath-likesilenceofthecrowd,untilaslightsmokecurlingfromthesummitofthepyre,andthenatongueofflamedartingwithbrightandlightning-likerapidityintotheclearbluesky,toldusthatthesacrificewascomplete.Mirrorsbeingveryrare,thewomenbedizenthemselveswithtinsel,thebizarreeffectofwhichtheyhavenomeansofappreciating.Noconjuncture,howevercritical,foundherwithoutresources;andwehesitatenottosaythatinthewholehistoryofdiscoveryandgeographicalenterprisethereisnomorewonderfulorexcitingchapterthanthatwhichrecordsMadameIdaPfeiffer'stravelsintheinteriorofBorneo.Atlast,however,sheheardthebarkofadog,andthenthetoocommonsoundofamanswearing;shesawalight,andinanotherminutefoundherselfatalargehouseelevenmilesfromDenver,whereahospitablereceptioncheeredthebelatedtraveller.Infourmonthstheyhadaccomplishedajourneyofverygreatlength,havingtraversedfromShanghaitoParis,some8,000miles,withoutaccident.Theymadeanotherefforttoshakemyresolution.SoonafterwardstheyreachedHongKong,whichhadbeenanEnglishsettlementsince1842.ItwasthefirstlandshetouchedinthegreatSouthSea."Forhoursandhoursthiswondrouswhitewomanpouredforthherspeech,forthemostpartconcerningsacredandprofanemysteries;buteverynowandthenshewouldstayherloftyflight,andswoopdownupontheworldagain.Referencewasmadetothediviningrodortwig(Virgil's"Aureavirga"[23]),bymeansofwhichpreciousmetalsmaybediscovered.Thereshetrod,indeed,upon"hallowedground."Everyshatteredtemple,everyruinedmonument,everyfragmentofarchorcolumn,recalledtohersomebravedeedofold;orsomeillustriousnameofphilosopher,statesman,poet,patriot,enshrinedforeverintheworld'sfondremembrance.Trollope385MissHarrietMartineau404MissIsabellaBird418LadyFlorenceDixie437MissGordonCumming443FlorenceandRosamondHill452LadyBarker456"Magyarland"458[Pg17]WOMANASATRAVELLERCOUNTESSDORAD'ISTRIA.Mandarins'boatsshesaw,withdoors,andsides,andwindowsgailypainted,withcarvedgalleries,andtinysilkenflagsflutteringfromeverypoint.Oneofthemwithhisfingerpointedoutthetotaltotheother,andbothatthesametimebrokeoutintoafitoflaughter.Theareashetraversedwasveryconsiderable;fromNewYorkshecrossedthecontinenttoNewOrleans;shevisitedCanada,thelakes,thevalleyoftheMississippi,andmadeanexcursiontoCuba;butofallthelandscapes,sublime,beautiful,andpicturesquethatmethergaze,shesayslittleornothing.InmyeagercuriosityInowcountedeveryminute,untilanofficerfollowedbyanagedfemale,veiled,cametoushermeintothemysteriouspalaceofwhich,asyet,Ihadseenonlytheloftyouterwall.Onwardtheysped,overtheperpetualplains,intersectedbyforestsoffirsandcountlesswater-courses.Butallatoncethickcloudsveiledthemoon,andsointenseadarknessprevailedthatthetravellerscouldscarcelydiscerneachonehisfellow.Forthegameofpahé,whichisalsoverypopular,aspeciallypreparedsmoothfloorisnecessary,andalongthisthejavelinsoftheplayersglidelikesnakes.Iwasconsciousofmyawkwardness,anditembarrassedallmymovements.OnecandomuchworsethanwhileawayanhourbythefiresidewithLadyFlorenceDixie'sbookinone'shand.TwodayslaterIembarkedonboardthesteamerSt.Nicholas,gazingwithinexpressibleregretattheshoresoftheTauricpeninsulaastheygraduallyblendedwiththehorizon,theirbrokenoutlinemeltingfinallyintothemistsofevening."ThatMadamedeHelltoahabitofcloseandprofoundobservation,addedveryremarkablepowersofdescription,willbeapparent,wethink,fromtheprecedingsummary,briefasitnecessarilyis,ofherrecordoftravelintheCaucasusandtheCrimea.Sometimesitisplantedwithoutmoreadoattherootofprunedguavabushes.Its501(c)(3)letterispostedat.Totheoneoccupiedbytheharemhasappropriatelybeengiventhenameof"TheLittleValleyofRoses."Itisabeautifulrose-bower,whichechoesdivinelywiththesoundoffallingwatersandthesongofthenightingales.Isawamansittinginafoldoftheneck—asaflymightsettleonahorse'smane.In1835theycommittedsuicidethroughloveorsentiment;nowtheyblowouttheirbrainswhentheirspeculationshavesuddenlycollapsed,somebubbleburst.Leavingtheroad,weturnedintothescrub,anddroveoverasandysoilamongsmallgum-treesandsmallerscrub."Idescendedfrommysedan-chairwhenwearrivedatanimprintinthemarblerockknownas'Martinsdruck.'ThegiganticpeaksoftheSchreckhorn,theEiger,theKischhorn,rosearoundus,almostoverwhelminguswiththeirgrandeur.Heraccountofthisaffairwasasfollows:—Twodaysbeforeitoccurred,aGreekappliedtoherforworkandfood.Shewasthemostconspicuouspersonintheplace,notonlyforthesplendourofherdress,butbecauseshesatonthediwán,whiletheotherssatorloungedoncushionsontheraisedfloor."Ihadnotthepatiencetowaitformorning.Whenshearrivedinanewlandsheplantedthereherflag,andwithpenupraisedsetforthtoattackorenergeticallypraise,accordingtohersympathiesorherhatreds,thesocialandpoliticalmannersexposedtohersearchinggaze.Thecommandwasreadilyobeyed;thestrengthofachildwouldhavesufficedtoburstthefrailbarrierwhichconfinedher,andabreathlesspausesucceeded;butthewoman'sconstancywasfaithfultothelast.Iraisedmyheadmechanically,andthoughtIshouldhavefaintedbeforethehorriblespectaclewhichstruckmyeyes.NumerousTching-taï,the[Pg279]officialmessengersofthelegations,andotherindigenousdomestics,crowdedthecourt,gravelymounteduponfounderedbroken-downhacks,theirkneesraiseduptotheirelbows,andtheirhandsclutchingatthemaneoftheirRosinante,likeapesastrideofdogsinthearenaofthecircus.Itwastrueshewasforty-fiveyearsold,andthatisnotanageatwhichoneusuallyattemptsatourroundtheworld;but,ontheotherhand,itinvestedawomanwithacertaindegreeofsecurity,anditrenderedmorefeasibleanenterprisewhichinanycasewasbesetwithdifficulties.Theideawasasnewasitwashappy;norcouldithavebeenrealizedatamoreopportunetimethanwhentheEnglishpublicwasbeginningtoawakefromitslongpoliticallethargy,andtoasserttherightsofthenationagainstthedominantclassinterests.BythethirdtimeIhadrecoveredmylibertyofaction,andnolongerdescendedbackward,butcontemplatingwithanundefinablecharmthegapinggulfswhichvanishedintheobscurerecessesoftheglacier,bluerthantheskiesoftheEast.TheKalmuksdrinkitoutofroundshallowlittlewoodenvessels,towhichtheyoftenattachaveryhighvalue."Thelongfleshlessfingersoftheseals,soliketothoseofthehumanhand,renderedtheillusionsingularlystrikingandfilledonewithakindofterror.ThewholeCorso,fromthePiazzadiVeneziatothePiazzadelPopolo,looks[Pg159]likeafestively-decoratedarena.Theselatterhavefour,six,andeveneightarms.Cortambert,towhomIowethissketch,sheafterwardsresidedinParis,andeditedseveraljournalsintendedforwomen'sreading.Oncrossingtheriver-bar,shesawbeforeherthecelebratedTakuforts,andhigheruptheriverthetownofPehtang,withimmenseplainsofsorghum,maize,andmilletspreadingasfarastheeyecouldsee.Weareinclinedtothink,however,thatoflateyearsamoreseriousspirithasprevailed.Thoughherhealthwasnotgood,shehastened,ontheconclusionofpeace,tofollowherhusbandtoPekin.Itismelancholyscenery,but,atthesametime,grandandpowerful."Abandofblindbeggars,inacostumemorethanlight,passalong,handinhand;thenanitinerantsmith,abarberalfresco,andacheaprestaurateur,simultaneouslyplytheirdifferenttradessurroundedbytheircustomers.ContacttheFoundationassetforthinSection3below.Amongotherworksofmercy,sheadoptedayoungorphangirl,ofwhomshesays:—"Mylittlecompanioneatswellandsleepswell.Weenteredthegates,and,passingamongruinsofall[Pg373]kinds—statues,bas-reliefs,columns,capitals,andfriezes—soonapproachedthepropylæa.AwaytheyrushatfullspeedalongtheCorsouptothePiazzadiVenezia,wheretheyarestopped,andthejudgesoftheraceawardtheprizeswhichtheirownersshallreceive.Dr.Meryonsaysthatthedishbeingremoved,themaidwouldagaindepart,andthrowherselfonherbed;and,asshewantednorocking,intenminuteswouldbeasleep.Remember,too,thatglasswindowsinAsiaarestillbutcuriosities;thatmostofthewindowsarefilledupwithoiledpaper,andthatwherecorn-paperisscarcethewindowsareblockedup,andlightentersonlybythechimney—lightmorethansufficientfortheinmatestodrinkandsmokebyandtoapplythewhiptorefractorychildren—theonlyoccupationsduringthedayofthemortalhourisoffaithfulMussulmans.FromFijitheSeignelayproceededtoTonga,intheFriendlyIslands,where,intheusagesofthepopulationandintheinsularantiquities,MissCummingfoundmuchtointerestherandherreaders.Thewholeprocessoccupieseightortendays.Religion,aspeopleprofessit,isnothingbutadress.Ibreakfastedinhaste,andassumedmymasculinedress,towhichIfounditdifficulttogrowaccustomed.Themenwearwidelinentrousers,andoverthemashirtconfinedroundthewaistbyagirdle,withasleevelesswoollenjacketmadeofstuffofonlyahand's-breadth,sewedtogether.Shevisiteditsholiestplaces,andtheeffecttheyproduceduponherimaginationisaproofthatyearsandthecaresof[Pg223]domesticlifehadinnowisechilleditsearlywarmth.Sheinventsnothingandshemagnifiesnothing;hernarrativeisasplainandunvarnishedasaship'slog-book.Forawhileweseemedtohearthedashofthewatersbreakingagainstthebridge;butthisfeelingwassoondispelledbyothers—thenight'sadventureswerebynomeansatanend.Thetotallengthofthisgreatbarrier,calledWan-ti-chang(or"myriad-milewall")bytheChinese,is1,250miles.SomethingofthisfaulttheEnglishreadernotesinMr.Kinglake's"Eöthen."InspeakingofBelgiumandHolland,Madamed'Aunetletsdropsomefelicitousexpressions,somepregnantandrememberablephrases,whichgivethereaderanexactideaofthemannersoftheinhabitantsandofthelandtheydwellin.AndnowsheconceivedtheideaofcompetingforthesuffragesofposteritywithBurtonandLivingstone,SpekeandBaker.InthecourseofherexplorationsinSumatra,shefoundherself,ononeoccasion,surroundedbyatribeofsavages,whowouldundoubtedlyhavetreatedherasanenemy,ifshehadnotbehavedwithremarkablepresence[Pg255]ofmind.DavenportAdamsReleaseDate:March3,2010[EBook#31479]Language:EnglishCharactersetencoding:ISO-8859-1***STARTOFTHISPROJECTGUTENBERGEBOOKCELEBRATEDWOMENTRAVELLERS***ProducedbySuzanneShell,JosephinePaolucciandtheOnlineDistributedProofreadingTeamat.Keepsomewoodforthewinterfire,andrememberwhatisexpectedofamarriedwoman.Theeldestwidow,whosatnearher,askedforitandputittoherear;whereuponMissMartineauexclaimed,"Bo!"Whenshehaddonelaughing,theladyoftheharemplacedittohernextneighbour'sear,andshouted"Bo!"andinthiswayitreturnedtoitspossessor.Thesechangesaremostnumerousandmostviolentinthespring.NottheleastinterestingisthatwhichbelongedtothebeautifulCountessPotocki.Likeallwhodwelluponvastplains,theyenjoyanexceedinglykeensight.Theeffectofthiscourageousconductwasimmediate;therobbersdesistedfromtheirattack,andweresoonengagedinquiteafriendlyconversationwiththosewhomtheyhadintendedtoplunder.Atthesamemoment,hercompanion,CountBerchthold,sprangforward,andwhileheseizedthevillainfrombehind,MadamePfeifferregainedherfeet.Notknowinghowtoguideourhorsesthroughthemidstofthisconfusedmob,wegainedtheprecinctsofthepolicepavilioninthehopeofenjoyingalittlemoretranquillity.TheirfeatureshavebeenfullydescribedbyLordDunraveninhispicturesquebook,"TheGreatDivide."MissBird'sanimatedpagespresentsomanydelightfulpicturesofmountainscenerythatweknownotwhichtochooseinillustrationofherremarkabledescriptivepowers.Amongtheprincess'sornamentsmustnotbeforgottenalargegoldchain,which,afterbeingtwistedroundherglossytresses,waspassedthroughhergoldearringsandthenallowedtofalluponherbosom.Herliteraryskillgivesheranadvantageoverthegreat[Pg127]majorityoffemaletravellers,whosediariesandjournals,fromwantofit,areoftenbald,colourless,anddiffuse.Fromtheageofsixteen,whensheremovedfromParistoSt.Petersburg,andentereduponaprofessionallife,sheenjoyedanunparalleledsocialdistinction.Thesunthenmadeitsappearance,andthemountainsgraduallythrewofftheircanopyofmist.Itistoomuch,Icannotbearevenmyownthoughts.Thenweseparatedwiththefriendlygreeting,'Aurevoir.'"Scarcelyhadthesundroppedbelowthehorizon,streakedwithlongbarsoffire,whenItookmysolitaryseatinanopencarriage.Theyacht,indeed,belongedtoalady,young,beautiful,andpossessedofqueenlyfortune,whoseexistence,almostfromchildhood,hadbeenspentintheEast;whohadalreadyaccomplishedseveralvoyagesofdiscoveryinCentralAfrica;andwho,undauntedbythemishapsofformerpioneersinthesamedirection,nowprojectedanundertaking,which,ifcarriedoutsuccessfully,wouldplaceherintheforemostrankofAfricanexplorers."Alexina,orAlexandrinaTinné,wasbornattheHaguein1835(or,accordingtosomeauthorities,1839).ShehasaccomplishedatourinBelgium,anotherinItaly,avisittoLondon,andseveralexcursionsintotheSouthofFrance.Baffledinonedesign,sheimmediatelystruckoutanother;andwithcharacteristicenergyanddaringsheresolvedonascendingthegreatwesterntributaryoftheNile,theBahr-el-Ghazal,exploringthewaterswhichfeedit,andpenetratingintothecountryoftheNyam-Nyam.III.Ifeltdepressed,andasitwere,overwhelmed,but,nevertheless,Iwentforward.Theconsequencewasthat,beforetheendofourwalk,Ihadaboutadozenwreathsofvariouscoloursandlengths,hangingroundme,tillIfeltalmostasifIhadafurtippeton,theymademesohot;andyetIdidnotliketotakethemoff,forfearofhurtingthepoorgirls'feelings."AGIRLOFTAHITI.Awidefield,muchtooneglected,liesopen,therefore,toherobservation.Weheldtooneanothersoastoformachain,andadvancedzigzag,firedwithimpatiencetoreachthesummit.Herparentsoccupiedarespectableposition,andtookcarethatsheshouldreceiveadecenteducation;butfromherearliestchildhoodshemanifestedastrongdistastefortheaccomplishmentsandamusementswhichwerethenconsidered"proper"forhersex.MissTinné,however,wasnottobethwartedinafixedresolve;sheatoncedismissedthemoreunworthyportionofthecrew,aswellasthecaptainandthepilot,andthen,withmenwhosworetobefaithfultoher,sheoncemoreproceededtowardstheBahr-el-Ghazal.Thepausewasbroken,Ithink,bymylady,whoaddressedtomesomeinquiriesrespectingmymother,andparticularlyastohermarriage;butbeforeIhadcommunicatedanygreatamountoffamilyfacts,thespiritoftheprophetesskindledwithinher,andpresently(thoughwithalltheskillofawomanoftheworld)sheshuffledawaythesubjectofpoor,dearSomersetshire,andboundedonwardintootherspheresofthought....Shespentlong,solitaryhoursonthedeckofthevesselthatconveyedher,andallowedherfancyfreecourseoverthatseawithathousandhistoricmemories—theMediterranean.Thesameday,asasignalmarkofhergraciousfavour,Ireceivedanumberoffowlsandalargebasketfulofeggs."Unfortunately,duringMadamePfeiffer'ssojournatAntananarivo,aconspiracywasformedforthepurposeofdethroningthetyrantqueenRanavalainfavourofthe[Pg265]nextheir,Radama.Herunhappypastseemedalmostjustifiedbythehardferociouscountenanceofsuchahusband.Nothingismorecommonherethantoseeanoldmanofeightyandoddsurroundedbylittlechildrenwhoarehisfleshandbone.Thedinnertookplaceinanapartmentwhich,asanexacttypeofaroominanyJapanesehouse,mayfitlybedescribed.Farbelowwasanundulatingmassoffoliage—thetopsofaforestofgum-trees,whichcoveredthewholebedofthevalley.Withshrilltwitteringcryandrapidwingflashedthehumming-birdthroughthetransparentair;thepepper-pecker,withglowingplumage,rosetimorouslyupwards;whileparrotsandparroquets,andinnumerablebirdsofbeautifulappearance,enhanced,bytheirvoicesandmovements,thelovelinessofthescene.Oftheseshewouldtakeoneorotherinsuccession,almostconstantly.Theywerecompelledtocarryprovisionswiththem,iftheydidnotwishtoperishofhungeronthesteppes.Wewerethenbetterabletorealizethenatureoftheperilswehadincurred,andforamomentalmostdoubtedouractualsafety.Seedtimeandharvest,thepriceofgrain,theconditionofhisfamily—thesearetheinvariabletopicsofhissimplechildlikeconversation.Jonathaniswillingtosharehiswitheverybody,toenrichalltheworld;[11]heisacosmopolitan;apartoftheearthserveshimaslarder,andhehasallthetreasuresoftheglobewithwhichtokeepuphishousehold.Intheabsenceoftelescopesafar-reachingsightishighlyvalued;andLadyHesterhadthispower.HerfatherwasamanufacturerinNorwich,wherehisfamily,originallyofFrenchorigin,hadresidedsincetheRevocationoftheEdictofNantes.Sheisfullofmirth,andseemsneithertoremembernortocarefortheterriblecatastrophewhichseparatedherfromherparents,massacredatthecaptureofPehtang.Theresultwasacuriouscacophony.Themoonshoneunclouded,oritwouldhavebeendifficultevenforthewell-trainedhorsesofthecaravantohavekepttheirfootingalongtheperilousway,encumberedasitwaswithfallenmassesofrock.AnyalternateformatmustincludethefullProjectGutenberg-tmLicenseasspecifiedinparagraph1.E.1.1.E.7.Donotchargeafeeforaccessto,viewing,displaying,performing,copyingordistributinganyProjectGutenberg-tmworksunlessyoucomplywithparagraph1.E.8or1.E.9.1.E.8.YoumaychargeareasonablefeeforcopiesoforprovidingaccesstoordistributingProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworksprovidedthat-Youpayaroyaltyfeeof20%ofthegrossprofitsyouderivefromtheuseofProjectGutenberg-tmworkscalculatedusingthemethodyoualreadyusetocalculateyourapplicabletaxes.ThencamepatchesofsugarorIndiancorn,andnextaplantationofvanilla,trainedtoclimboverclosely-plantedtallcoffee,orelseoververmilionbushes.Ifoundthatenergyandboldnessinfluenceallpeople,whetherArabs,Persians,Bedouins,orothers."ItwasthisstrengthofwillwhichcrownedMadamePfeiffer'senterpriseswithsuccess.ThewholewasenlivenedbythefiguresofKalmukhorsemengallopingtoandfro,ofcamelswanderinghereandtherethroughtherichpastures,andofficersconveyingtheordersoftheirchieffromtenttotent.Onthecontrary,hesaystohimself,'Letusthinknomoreofit;goahead!'"Thetwobrothershavetakenitintotheirheadsthattheywillhumanizeandcivilizetheworld;butJonathanmarcheswithmorezealinthisdirection,andwishestogomuchfartherthanJohnBull;hehasnofearofwoundinghisdignitybyputtinghistwohandstothepie,likeatrueworkman."Atlength,aboutteno'clock,wehaltedonaplatformwhichstretchedtothebaseoftheMönch,whoseridgeorbackbonerosebeforeoureyes.MadamedeBaluseck,wifeoftheRussianministeratPekin,hadalreadyaccomplishedthisjourney.InthemonthofAugust,1860,shewastemporarilyresidingatShanghai.Here,asinallChinesetowns,thetradersateverydoortoutforcustom.M.ShewasbornatTuorlaManorHouse,nearAboinFinland,onthe17thofAugust,1801.The[Pg107]sombreandmysteriousaspectofthehallstimulatesthetendencyinthemindofthevisitortoforgetrealityforthedreamsoftheimagination.Sixnoblecolumnsarestillstanding.MissBremerhadbeentoldthatnothinginhisexteriorrevealedtheastutestatesman;that,onthecontrary,helookedverymuchasonemightimagineDickens'sMr.Pickwicktolook;andsheconfessesthatatthefirstglanceheremindedhermoreofanEnglishred-complexionedcountrysquire,whoridesandhunts,eatsgooddinners,andtakeslifelightly,thanofaprofoundandsagaciouspolitician,who,withsureglanceandfirmhand,steersthevesseloftheStatetowardsitsdestinedhavenoverthestormywavesofstatecraft.CrossingtheborderofBritishIndia,shesailedtoBassora,andascendedthehistoricTigris—sonamedfromthetiger-likeswiftnessofitscourse—toBagdad,thatquaintOrientalcity,whichisassociatedwithsomanywonderfullegendsandnotlesswonderful"travellers'tales."ThiswasofoldtheresidenceofthegreatHaroun-al-Raschid,arulerofnoordinarysagacityandtheheroofmanyapicturesquetradition,whosenamethe"ThousandandOneNights"havemadefamiliartoeveryEnglishreader.Andinproportionaswecarryourobservationsabovetheclasseswhichsohappilypreservetheirprimitivecharacteristics,tothebourgeoisie,orintoregionshigherstill,soshallwefindthegrowthanddevelopmentofvice;itextends,predominates,andfinallyreignsalone.Thepastureisnotfineenoughinthispartofthecountrytocarrysheep,butdeerarefrequentlymetwith....Onasmalltableintheroomlayseveralpaperscoveredwithwriting;allofthembreathedthedesiretoattainrenownwithoutdifficultyandwithoutwork,andexpressedtheutmostcontemptforthosewhoconsentedtogaintheirlivelihoodbythesweatoftheirbrow.IntruthitwastheoldstoryofHymenandIphigeniareversed.Itwasalwaysfreelygiven,forheradmirationofherdistinguishedkinsmanwasunbounded.Sheneverseekstodazzleorbeguilethereader;herlanguageisdirectandvigorous[Pg51]andfullofvitalitybecauseitalwaysembodiesthetruth.TheTurkishpeasantisatoncefather,husband,andlovertohiswife,whomhenevercontradictswillinglyandknowingly,andthereislittletowhichhewillnotsubmitinthedepthofhisaffectionforher.ItwasadayofsorrowforIdawhenshewasforcedtoassumethedressofhersex.Anadvocateofsomerepute,aHerrPfeiffer,proposedandwasaccepted.Unlessrecentobserverserrgreatly,andunlessthestagehasceasedtoreflectthetoneandmannersofsociety,agreatchangefortheworsthastakenplaceinthisrespect,due,perhaps,tothecombinedinfluenceofspeculationontheBourse,smoking,andthecoarsercodeofmoralsintroducedfromtheNorth.Theyounggirlsdancedmerrilyatherapproach;theytookherforaprincess,or,atallevents,assuchtheysalutedher.Asforus,weshallsoonreturnheretogivethankstoGod.'"'Good!'repliedPierre;'thatistosay,nothingwillmakeyoudrawback.'"Herejoinedhiscompanions,andIwenttoshutmyselfupinmychamber.Whatshesawwasnotofanaturetocheerandencourageher.Theyfetchedstrawmatsandmattresses,andlaidthemonthegroundroundalargetree....Trollope'sanimadversionsareobsoleteonmanyothersubjects.Intheunhealthiestspots,moreover,thetravellerswereforcedtolingerfora[Pg268]weekorevenafortnight;andfrequentlywhenMadamePfeifferwasinagonyfromaviolentaccessoffever,thebrutalsoldierswoulddragherfromherwretchedcouch,andcompelhertocontinuethejourney.DavenportAdamsThiseBookisfortheuseofanyoneanywhereatnocostandwithalmostnorestrictionswhatsoever.Manysmalldonations($1to$5,000)areparticularlyimportanttomaintainingtaxexemptstatuswiththeIRS.Aftertheyhaddrankthecoffeetheytoldthewaiterthattheywishedtospeaktotheproprietor,whocameimmediately,supposingthattheywishedtocomplainofsomearticleasovercharged.Ontheotherhand,wecannotrecognizeasinexistencenowthatexquisitecourtesyoftheFrenchhusbandtowardshiswifewhichmovedMrs.AsEuropeangentlemenareneveradmittedtotheharem,itishardlycrediblethatMajorWarburtoncouldhavehadanopportunityofseeingthebeautywhichhepaintsinsuchglowingcolours."MilesandmilesofgoldandgreenWherethesunflowersblowInasolidglow,Andtobreaknowandthenthescreen—Blackneckandeyeballskeen,Upawildhorseleapsbetween."—(R.Onefeels,onedivinesthatlifehasbeenarrestedherebyoneofthosefatalcriseswhichinvolveeverythinginruin.TheTurkishpeople,iflessenlightenedthanotherEuropeannations,arenotwithoutqualitiesthatdemandrecognition.TrollopehadnosympathywiththeRomanticschoolwillnotexcitesurprise.ReturningtoEngland,shehastenedtocollecttheremainsofherscatteredfortune,soldaportionofherestates,charteredanothervessel,andasecondtimesailedfortheEast.Astostature,hewasnottall,buthewaswell-built,andhisfigurewassolidandrobust,likethatofamanwhocanholdhisfootingfirmly.Herhistoricaleruditionwasprofound;hermindwascontinuallyinsearchofnewknowledge.Theexplanationaffordedwas,thataCircassianofficercannot,consistentlywithhonour,enterhiswife'sapartmentduringtheday,anditseemsthatinallfamilieswiththeslightestpretensiontodistinctionthisruleisrigorouslyobserved.MadamePfeifferhadfirmlyresolvedtorefusethedish,butwhenitwasreadyherappetitewassokeen,andthesmellsosavoury,thatherresolutiongaveway,andshecomfortedherselfwiththereflectionthatshemustoftenhaveeatenoffoodpreparedinasimilarmanner.DavenportAdams***ENDOFTHISPROJECTGUTENBERGEBOOKCELEBRATEDWOMENTRAVELLERS********Thisfileshouldbenamed31479-h.htmor31479-h.zip*****Thisandallassociatedfilesofvariousformatswillbefoundin:ProducedbySuzanneShell,JosephinePaolucciandtheOnlineDistributedProofreadingTeamat."Asyouenterthecool,shadymarket,youseehundredsofthosegoldenclustershangingfromropesstretchedacrossthebuilding,andgreatbunchesofmangoesandoranges.Fate,indeed,seemedtohaveplacedatherdisposaleverythingwhichsocietymostvalues,andtohaveenabledhertorealizeinanunusualdegreewhatDr.Johnsonsohappilydescribedas"thepotentialitiesofwealth."Alltheenjoymentsofliteraryandartisticculture,allthepleasuresofarefinedandfavouredlife,alltheinfluenceforgoodorevilthataccruestoaleaderoffashion,werecommandedbythisyounglady;andyet,intheverybloomofmaidenhood,shevoluntarilysetthemaside.IntheselatitudestheSouthernCrossisthemostconspicuousobjectintheheavens.Suchprawnssuitthoseonlywhocareforquantityratherthanforquality;theyareofindifferentflavour;whereastheoysters,whichareparticularlysmall,areremarkablefortheirdelicioustaste.ToourknowledgeofSouthAfrica,LadyBarkerhasunquestionablymadeaveryrealandinterestingcontribution.Herdresshadacharacterofitsown:underabrocadedpelisse,withshortsleevesandlacedseams,sheworeasilkchemise,whichdisplayedmoreofthebosomthanEuropeannotionsofdecorumwouldapprove.TheministerwhointroducedMadamePfeifferandhercompanion—M.Theice-fieldsandtheicebergs[Pg130]inspiredMadamed'Aunetwithprofoundemotion,and,indescribingthem,shebreaksoutintowhatmaybecalledalyricalcry.ThepassageoftheKoroskoDesertusuallyoccupieseightorninedays;butasAlexinaadvancedveryleisurely,bydailystagesnotexceedingsevenoreighthourseach,sheconsumednearlythreeweeksinthejourney.Theordinarypursuitsofsocietyaffordedhernogratification,openedupnochannelinwhichherrestlessenergiescouldexpendthemselves.InthecourseofherwanderingsthroughthewildhighlandsofPersia,MadamePfeiffercametoUrumiyéh,onthebordersofthesaltlakeofthatname,which,insomeofitsphysicalfeatures,closelyresemblestheDeadSea.Nolongerinneedofacompletecaravan,MissTinnédismissedhercameldrivers;and

desirousofleavingontheirmindsapermanentlyfavourableimpression,sherewardedthemwithsuchunboundedgenerositythattheybrokeoutintounaccustomedexclamationsofjoyandgratitude,andtothisdaysingofthewhitequeen'sglory,asifshehadrevivedthesplendourofPalmyra.Theworthyrepresentativeofanamefamousintheannalsofadventureandenterprise,shehasputagirdleroundabouttheworldwithunfailingardour,andplungedintotheremoteandalmostinaccessibleregionsofthegreatAsiatictable-land.Itisworthnotingthatshereducedthecostoftraveltoaminimum,andaccomplishedthecircuitoftheglobeforalesssumthantherentofafurnishedhouseinMayfairforonlyatwelvemonth.Notlongbefore,ayoungandhandsomelady,incognita,butevidentlyofhighbirth,hadspentawholedaythere.Veryfewdeformedpersonsareseenamongthem;for,withthewisdomofnature,theyleavethedevelopmentoftheirchildren'sframesunchecked,nor,indeed,dotheyputanygarmentsuponthemuntiltheyreachtheageofnineorten.Togetatoeinthesecracksorononeorotherofthesescarcelyvisibleprojections,whilecrawlingonhandsandknees,weary,thirst-tortured,andgaspingforbreath,thiswastoclimb;butatlastthepeakwaswon,andMissBirdrejoicedintheconsciousnessofbeingthefirstwomanwhohadeverplacedherfeetonitsloftysummit.Thispassage,muchfavouredbyvendorsofbric-à-brac,issimplyadarklane,550to600feetlong,wheretwopeoplecanhardlywalkabreast.AsMonsieurandMadamedeHellresidedforayearinConstantinople,itisneedlesstosaytheyremainedlongenoughfortheglamourtodisappear,inwhichatfirsttheirlivelyimaginationshadinvestedeverythingaroundthem.Theysitastridethestern,withtheirlegshangingdowninthewater,andiftheycannotfindanybranchescapableofbeingusedasoars,theypaddlewiththeirhands.Andsoendsherday."Aharmlessday,afterall!NodoubtsuchdayswerespentbyPhiladelphianladiesexactlyasMrs.Sheresolveduponanexpeditionwhichinboldnessofenterpriseandromanticinterestshouldexceedallpreviousadventures;proposingtotravelfromTripolitothecapitalofFezzan,thencetoKukainBornu,and,westward,bywayofWadai,Darfur,andKordofan,totheNile.Towardsthebottomitvanishedfromoursightamonglargestones,andifinthatdryseasonthestreammadefurtherprogress,itscoursewashiddenbytheforestatitsfeet.Assheapproachedit,[Pg261]shecouldseeitpicturesquelyplantedonahighhillthatrosealmostsuddenlyoutofthebroadandfertileinlandplain;andafterapleasantjourneythroughrichandbeautifulscenery,shecameuponthesuburbs,whichencloseitonallsides.Sheandhercompanion,inalonelyspot,wereovertakenbyanegro,who,withalassoinonehandandalongknifeintheother,suddenlyspranguponthem,andgavethemtounderstand,morebygesturesthanwords,thatheintendedtomurderthem,andthendragtheirbodiesintotheforest.Thegreatestcondemnationoftheself-crueltyofthefakeersis—itsuselessness.ShehadnotthequalificationsofaMadamedeStaël,andherobservations,therefore,arefrequentlysuperficial.AtlastIbethoughtmyselfofanexpedient.Ofcourse,thefainteststiroftheleafcausesthesemultitudinousswordletstoflashinthesunlight.Thesearegenerallyhushedasthenightadvances;andthenswarmsoffire-fliesandglow-wormslighttheirtinytorchesandilluminatethedarkwithamagicaldisplay;whilethedrowsyairhangsheavywiththesweetandsubtleodoursexhaledfromthecorollasoftheplantswhichopenonlyinnight'scoolandtranquilhours.Notinferiortoherincourageandendurance,and[Pg444]hersuperiorinliteraryqualifications,isMissGordonCumming,who,Ithink,amongfemaletravellershasnorivalexceptIdaPfeiffer.Theyhadnoarms,havingbeentoldthattheroadwasperfectlysafe;theironlydefensiveweaponsweretheirparasols,withtheexceptionofaclaspknife,whichIdaPfeifferinstantlydrewfromherpocketandopened,resolvedtosellherlifeasdearlyaspossible.Sometimesriderandhorserolledtogetheronthegrass,sometimestheyshotthroughtheairwitharrowyspeed,andthensuddenlyhaltedasifawallhadsprungupbeforethem.Followinghisdirectionsshecametotracks,butitwasthensodarkshecouldseenothing,andsoonthedarknesssoincreasedthatshecouldnotseeevenherhorse'sears,andwaslostandbenighted.Obtainingpermissiontopassintotheinterioroftheisland,shepenetratedasfarasAntananarivo,or"CityofaThousandTowers,"thecapital.Fromthequietwayinwhichheresumedthereins,onemighthavethoughtthathehadjustrisenfromabedofroses;suchistheuniformapathyoftheRussianpeasant!"TheyspentaweekwiththeirfriendsatTaganrog,andthenceproceededtoOdessa,thegreatcommercialentrepôtoftheEuxine.Itisquiteunderstoodthatno"terraincognita"existsintowhichourfemaletravellerswouldfeartopenetrate."Youareoneofthosemen,"shesaid,"whomIawait;whomProvidencesendstome;whohaveagreatparttoaccomplishintheworkthatFateisgettingready.Inthesceneryofthisrichandbeautifulislandshesawmuchtoadmire.Herodeontoaninnerpartofthebuilding,dismounted,andpassedthroughadoorwaythatledhimatoncefromanopencourtintoanapartmentonthegroundfloor.Itmaybeinterestingtonotethatin"TheNeighbours,"morethaninanyofherotherworks,FrederikaBremerdrewfromreallife.Hundredsofthemwerelyingaboutineverystageofdecay,thosemorerecentlydeadbeingsurroundedbyvulturesandothercarrionbirds."Thestormoftheprecedingevening,thosedensecloudswhichgavetotheAlpsamoreformidableaspectthanever,thewell-meantremonstrancesoftheherdsmenofthevalley,allawakenedintheheartofmyguidesahesitationnotdifficulttounderstandonthepartofmenwhofearedtheburdenofagreatresponsibility.Urumiyéhisaplaceofsomecelebrity,foritgavebirthtoZaravusthra(orZoroaster),thepreacherofacreedofconsiderablemoralpurity,whichstillclaimsalargenumberofadherentsinAsia.Youwillbecomeapoet—Iseeitinyoureyes,andintheupperpartofyourface;intheloweryouareunderthesway[Pg315]ofwidelydifferentstars,almostallofthemofoppositecharacters.Allthewhile,romping,kissing,andscreamingwentonamongtheladies,oldandyoung.PleasechecktheProjectGutenbergWebpagesforcurrentdonationmethodsandaddresses.Wherevershewentshecarriedthegreatgiftofarefinedtasteandacultivatedmind,sothatshewasalwaysinfullaccordwiththescene,couldappreciateitscharacter,andrecallwhateverwasmemorableaboutit.Thegreatobjectwhichshesetbeforeherself,aftershehadarrivedatafullunderstandingofherpowers,wastheemancipationofhersexfromthethraldomimposeduponitbytraditionandconventionalism,andmoredefinitely,thealterationoftheSwedishlawsofarasitpressedharshlyandunjustlyuponwomen.Theroofsareveryhighandsteep,withlongpolesrearedateachendbywayofornament."Wehadbeenthereafewmomentsonly,whenmyhorseshowedadeterminedunwillingnesstoremain.Theyhaveundoubtedlybeentoldthat,tobebeautiful,theeyebrowshouldformawell-definedarch,andhencetheyhaveconcludedthatthegreaterthearchthegreaterwillbethebeauty,withoutaskingiftheplaceofthatarchwerenotirrevocablyfixedbynature.Theexperienceshehadacquiredasatravellersheresolvedtoutilizeintheaccomplishmentofatourroundtheworld,andonthisnotableadventureshesetoutinJune,1846,beingtheninherfiftiethyear,onboardtheCaroline,aDanishbrig,boundforRioJaneiro.MadamePfeifferdidnotfailtovisitthesugar-caneplantations,whichcoverthebroadandfertileplainsofPamplimousse.Butallvigorousvegetationhaddisappeared.Afewyearslater,andthebrilliantauthor[Pg319]"Eöthen,"Mr.A."ThefirsttoarriveweretheguidesofGrindelwald.Ifyouareredistributingorprovidingaccesstoaworkwiththephrase"ProjectGutenberg"associatedwithorappearingonthework,youmustcomplyeitherwiththerequirementsofparagraphs1.E.1through1.E.7orobtainpermissionfortheuseoftheworkandtheProjectGutenberg-tmtrademarkassetforthinparagraphs1.E.8or1.E.9.1.E.3.IfanindividualProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkispostedwiththepermissionofthecopyrightholder,youruseanddistributionmustcomplywithbothparagraphs1.E.1through1.E.7andanyadditionaltermsimposedbythecopyrightholder.And,indeed,thefinecolouringofthepictureswhichoccurinher"PhysicalGeography"showthatshehadtheartist'seyeandtheartist'sdescriptivefaculty,bothsoessentialtothefullenjoymentoftravel.AsmallRussianmirrorandtheprince'sarmorialtrophiesformedthedecorationofthewalls.ThosewhofrequenttheEasternpartof"Fireland"(TierradelFuego)areclothed,insofarastheycovertheirnakednessatall,inadeerskinmantledescendingtothewaist;thoseattheWesternendwearcloaksmadefromtheskinoftheseaotter.Ontheirarrival,acordonwasdrawnroundthepanther,anditwaseasilycaptured.ThevillageofKythræaitselfnestlesinfruit-treesandfloweringshrubs,andeverywalliscoveredwithmaiden-hairfern,thefrondsofwhicharefrequentlyfourandfivefeetlong.Byaccident,ratherthanbyreflection,Ilookedoutforthespotsofsnowandthereplantedmyfeet.Alightingfromthecarriage,theyallowedittogoforward,thecoachmandrivingslowly,whiletheCossack,withhislantern,pointedoutallthedangerousplaces.Thefirst-named,formingingroupsorbands,areseatedoutsidethecaféssmoking,whileyouthsintheprettyGreekcostumehastenfromonetoanotherwithawretched-lookingcoffee-potandpouroutthecoffee—theblackeritisthemorehighly[Pg175]itisesteemed—intoverysmallcups."Passingthroughthe'Notch,'"saysMissBird,"welookedalongthenearlyinaccessiblesideofthepeak,composedofbouldersanddébrisofallshapesandsizes,[Pg427]throughwhichappearedbroad,smoothribsofreddish-colouredgranite,lookingasiftheyupheldthetoweringrock-massabove.Manywearadelicatewhitejessaminestarintheearinplaceofanear-ring.Vinesclamberupintotheloftyolivetrees,andfalldownagaininlightgreenfestoons,heavywithgrapes,whichwaveinthewind.Inherbed,lyingwithherpipeinhermouth,shewouldtalkonpolitics,philosophy,morality,religion,oronanyothertheme,withheraccustomedeloquence,andclosingherperiodswithawhiffthatwould[Pg338]havemadetheDuchessofRichmondstarewithastonishment,couldshehaverisenfromhertombtohaveseenherquondamfriend,thebrilliantornamentofaLondondrawing-room,cloudedinfumessothatherfeaturesweresometimesinvisible.IntheneighbourhoodofGuayaquilshehadtwoverynarrowescapes—onebyafallfromhermule,andanotherbyaccidentallyfallingintotheriverGuaya,whichswarmswithalligators.Hereisavignette,whichwillgivethereadersomenotionofthisenchantingTahitianscenery:—"Werodealongthegreenglades,throughtheusualsuccessions[Pg447]ofgloriousfoliage;grovesofmagnificentbread-fruittrees,indigenoustothoseisles;nextaclumpofnoblemango-trees,recentlyimported,butnowquiteathome;thenagroupoftallpalms,oralongavenueofgiganticbananas,theirleavessometimestwelvefeetlong,meetingoverourheads.Thestreetboysareingeneral,however,thegreatestwinnersbythispolitewarfare;foreverythingwhichmissesitsobjectandfallsintothestreetbelongstothem,andthatisnotlittle....Sheappearstohavebeenbynatureofaromantictemperament,withanimaginationaslivelyasherspiritwasundaunted."TheArabwomenofhighrank,envelopedinlongwhitemantles,andwiththeirfaceshiddenbyacloseveilofblack,yellow,orbluegauze,formmythirddivision.Itderivesitspatheticnamefromthesweetsadmurmurofitspearlydropsastheyfalluponthemarblebasin.Ineversawanythingsostrangeaslookingback.Atkinson's"OrientalandWesternSiberia."Irkutskwasverypleasanttoourtravellersaftertheirlongexperienceofthedesert.Accordingly,in1826,she[Pg407]wrote,andafterconqueringthedifficultyoffindingapublisher,gavetotheworldhertaleof"TheRioters,"thefirstofalongseriesofillustrationsofpoliticaleconomy,whichhadaveryconsiderableinfluence,ifnotquitesogreataninfluence,assheherselfsupposed.deLamartineeveryFrenchtravellerseemstoberegardedasaseigneurofillustriouslineage.Thevillagesarecomposedofraisedcircularorifices,abouteighteeninchesindiameter,fromwhichanumberofinclinedpassagesslopedownwardsforfiveorsixfeet.Butanight'srestrecruitedherremarkableenergies,andwhenthemorningdawnedshewasfreshandvigorousasever,andhappyinthememoryofhersuccessfulenterprise—anenterprisesuchasfewwomenhaveeverequalled—andinrecollectionsofthebeautyandsublimityofLong'sPeak,whichcannotfailtobe"joysforever."The"parks"ofwhichwehavespokenarebroad,grassyvalleys,lyingatheightswhichvaryfrom6,000to11,000feet.SoinSwitzerland:shewascaughtupinthestreamoftourists;hername,inscribedinthevisitors'booksofthehotels,receivedbutafugitivenotice;andshewhohadcreatedinherfancyanidealSwitzerland,preparedtowelcomewithopenarmsthechampionoffreedomgenerally,and[Pg157]thefreedomofwomeninparticular—discoveredonlyanationofgoodhousekeepers,whowerethinkingofeverythingintheworldbutemancipation.Thelatter,overwhelmedwithemotion,burstintotears:"PoorSalghir!poorSalghir!"shecried,andwasunabletoutteranotherword.Itisafuneralceremony,andyonderisthedoorofthedefunct,andinfrontofittheSocietyofFunerals(thereissuchanoneatPekin)hasraisedatriumphalarch,consistingofawoodenframework,coveredwitholdmatsandpiecesofstuffs.Theywereonlytoothankfultoobeytheorder,andwithinanhourwereontheirwaytoTamatavé,escortedbyseventyMalagasysoldiers.HereourtravellersreallylookedoutuponthosefeaturesoftheCaspianwildernessonwhichtheirimaginationshadsooftendwelt.Butafterawhiletheyoungmanfeltittobehisdutytorespectthedecisionofherparents,andhiscorrespondencewithhispupilceased.Itisshroudedindarkness,forofwindowstherearenone,andthedooriscurtainedinside,stillmoreeffectuallytoexcludethelight.Moreover,sheisalwaysimpartial:shehasnopreconceivedtheoriestosupport,andconsequentlysheisatlibertyneithertoextenuatenorsetdownaughtinmalice.Thisrichandradiantislandgrouptheypassedonthe1stofJuly,andthenextdayenteredthedangerousChinaSea.AllthemanualsoftravellersofSwitzerlandlayuponmytables.BeforeAdelawassevenyearsold,shehadbeencarriedfromFranche-ComtéintotheBourbonnais,thenceintoAuvergne,andthencetoParis.Thecurtainatthethresholdofthepavilionhavingbeenraised,shewasusheredintoaspaciousroom,lightedfromabove,anddrapedwithreddamask,thereflectionfromwhichshedaglowingtintoneveryobject;thefloorwascoveredwitharichTurkeycarpet,andtheairwasheavywithperfumes.Attheageoftwentyshewasmarried(February,1849),andsoonafterwardsshesetoutforSt.Petersburg,whereshewasrecognisedastheornamentofthehighersociety.Allthisisadmirable;butifaMussulmanfindsthemeansofappearingashospitableaslawsandcustomsrequire,withoutsacrificinganobolus,orevenwhilegainingalargesumofmoney,fieuponvirtue,andlonglivehypocrisy!Andsuchisthecaseninety-ninetimesoutofahundred.Onturninground,IcouldseenothinginthedirectionofInterlachenbutgloomyvaporousdepths,impenetrabletotheeye.[Pg404]HARRIETMARTINEAU.Shetookupeventhemostthoroughlyfeminineavocations,andlearnedtosew,andknit,andcook.ThereadermaynotbedispleasedtotakeaglanceatNikosia,thechieftownofCyprus—ofthatfamousislandwhichcallsupsuchstirringmemoriesoftheoldchivalrousdayswhenRichardI.ButitisnotlesscertainthatthenandnowmanywomeninPhiladelphiaspentandspendtheirtimewithawiseractivity,andmoretotheadvantageofthemselvesandtheirfellowcreatures.Shewasinthegayestspirits,andsanganddanced.Atlengththeyreachedthepost-house.Thesunshineisbrightandalmostconstant,andthree-fourthsofthedaysarecloudless."ThisisnotEden,butColorado;yet,seeingitreproducesasnearlyaspossiblewhatwemaysupposetohavebeentheprimarycharacteristicsofthatfirstGarden,tousdwellersinalandwheremistsandfogsarefrequentandsunbeamsarerare,MissBird'sdescriptionofitreadslikeaneffortoftheimagination.Thewomanwasseatedastrideanass,whichherhusbandledbythebridle.PrinceKung,regentoftheChineseEmpire,promisedthetravellersfullsecurityasfarastheborders.Slendercypressesriseupfromamidstbrightlyverdantgrovesoforange,fig,pomegranate,plum,andpeachtrees.Thelavawasmoreglassyandhadalookofgreatertransparency,asifithadbeenfusedatanexceptionallyhightemperature;andthecrystalsofalum,sulphur,andothermineralswithwhichitabounded,reflectedthelightinbrightprismaticcolours.Aboatwasagainhired;asecondtimetheyembarkedontheshiningNile;andagainanevilfortuneattendedthem.AndIwastobethefirsttobeholdthem!—anegotisticalpleasure,itistrue;buttheideahadagreatcharmforme,asithashadformanyothers."Accompaniedbyherhusband,brothers,andthreefriends,LadyFlorenceleftLiverpoolonthe11thDecember,1878.Soonafterwardsthecaravanwasinneedofdourra,andrecoursewashadtoBiselli.Thispassionhasconstantlydeveloped.Dr.Heughlinandseveralofthemenfellillofit,andageneralfeelingofdepressionpervadedtheencampment.Thefirstportionoftheirprojecttheyhadsatisfactorilycarriedout,thankstotheexcellenceofMonsieur'scuisineandcellar,andthesecondwouldnotbelongdelayed,sincethecoffeeandthebrandyhadbeenmixedwithadrugwhichwouldhelpthemtopayalltheirdebts.[Pg398]Thelandlordwasfurious.Buttheeyeischieflyattractedbythethreeshrinesintheforeground,withthethreecolouredstatuesbehindthem,ofBuddha,seatedassymbolicalofPast,Present,andFuture.Itisevident,ataglance,whatatragedyliesunderthis;whatthehorrorsofjealousymustbeamongsistersthusconnectedforlife;threeofthembetweentwohusbandsinthesamehouse!And[Pg412]weweretoldthatthejealousyhadbegun,youngastheywere,andthethirdhavingbeenmarriedonlyaweek.MadamedeHellparticularlynoticedahandsomeyoungCircassian,mountedonarichlycaparisonedhorse,whorodeconstantlybythesideofanunusuallyelegantpavosk(akindoflitter),thecurtainsofwhichwerekeptdown.But,onthecontrary,thesestirringstoriesdidbutsharpenmycuriosity,didbutquickenmyimpatiencetosetout.Herfruit,herpoultry,andevenhervinessufferedfromprowlingdepredators;shewascontinuallyonthewatch,andespeciallyhadtoguardagainstarepetitionofthecruelattempttowhichononeoccasionshenearlyfellavictim.Therewerefairlakesmirroringthedarkpinewoods,canyonsdarkandblue,blackwithunbrokenexpansesofpines,snow-slashedpinnacles,wintryheightsfrowninguponlovelyparks,wateredandwooded,lyinginthelapofsummer;NorthParkfloatingoffintothebluedistance,MiddleParkclosedtillanotherseason,thesunnyslopesofEsteoPark,andwindingdownamongthemountainsthesnowyridgeoftheDivide(thebackbone,orwater-shedoftheRockyMountains),whosebrightwatersseekboththeAtlanticandthePacificOceans.Shewasnotanartist,butshehadafeelingforthebeautiful;andsheexaminedwithintensedelighttheParthenon,theTempleofTheseus,theOlympian,theToweroftheWinds,andthegracefulchoragicmonumentofLysicrates.Noristhedifficultylessenedbythefactthatthecostumeofbothsexesiscloselyalike."Really,"saidshe,whenhehadtakenhisseatandhispipe,"weweretogetherforhourslastnight,andstillIhaveheardnothingatallofmyoldfriends;nowdotellmesomethingofyourdearmotherandhersister;Ineverknewyourfather—itwasafterIleftBurton-Pynsentthatyourmothermarried."Kinglakebegantofurnishthedesiredparticulars;buthisquestionercouldnotlongattendtothem.Shefellillwithgriefanddisappointment,andherparentsfounditnecessarytoallowhertoretaintheboy'sblouseandcap,towhichshewassopartial.WilliamTellwasoneofthegodsofheridolatry,and[Pg218]ononeoccasionshewasfoundwithanappleonherhead,atwhichherbrothers,liketheSwisschampion,wereshootingarrows!—aremarkableexampleofcoolnessofnerveandcontemptofdanger.Never,Iamtold,hasthePrinceexpressedhisopinionbeforetheQueeninsolivelyandfirmamanner.to15°W.Theysay,however,thatoneeasilygetsaccustomedtoit,andeventuallylearnstothinkitdelicious.Inthelastpanthesugarisfoundhalfcrystallized.HansJaunwastheoldestofallandtheleastrobust.Suchalandscapeasthis,withitsgorgeouscolouranditsnovellife,harmonizedadmirablywithMissTinné'spoeticalanddreamytemperament.Thepeopleherearenotsowinsomeasthoseinremoterdistricts.Asfortheguides,theygaveventtotheirfeelingsinshoutsofjoy.Tothesameyearbelongsher"MichaelArmstrong,"inwhichherIshmaelhandfellheavilyonthenarrow-mindednessofthemanufacturingclass—anticipating,insomedegree,Dickens's"HardTimes.""OneFault,"asatireuponromanticexaggeration;andthecoarse,butclever"WidowBarnaby,"aracyhistoryofthetroublesofavulgar-genteelbourgeoiseinsearchofasecondhusband,werepublishedin1839;andinthefollowingyearappeareditssequel,"TheWidowMarried,"whichisquiteascoarseasitspredecessor,butnot[Pg402]soamusing.Meanwhile,manyoftheattendantswhohadaccompaniedherfromEuropedied;othersreturnedtotheirnativecountry.AtParisshewasspeciallyhonouredbytheSociétédeGéographie.Peoplecansafelysleepoutofdoorsforsixmonthsoftheyear.Uptotheageofnineshewastheirconstantcompanion—woreclothesliketheirs,andsharedinalltheirgames,lookedwithutterscornupondollsandtoys,andthirstedaftergunsandswords,andthemusicofthedrum.TheChristians,whoweresupposedtohaveencouragedandabettedit,werenowexposedtoQueenRanavala'stempestuouswrath,andMadamePfeifferandhercompanionsfoundthemselvesinapositionofexceedingperil.Howshereachedhomewithherskullfracturedshenevercouldexplain.Tohercousin,theyoungerPitt—"thepilotwhoweatheredthestorm,"inthelanguageofpoetry;whodiedwhenitwasatitsheight,inthelanguageoffact—heradvicewasalwaysacceptable.Insteadofcarpets,thefloorisstrewnwithseveralthicknessesofveryfinemats,eachaboutsixfeetlongbythreefeetbroad,"deliciouslysofttowalkupon."AllJapanesematsareofthesamesize,andtheyconstitutethestandardbywhicheverythingconnectedwithhouse-buildingorhouse-furnishingismeasured.Shepredictedthatifwomenwereasfreeasmentogainknowledgeandskill,theywould,whentheircapacity[Pg145]andindispensablenessintheworkofsocietyhadobtainedmoregeneralrecognition,befoundfittedforavarietyofoccupations,whichwereeitheralreadyinexistence,orwouldberequiredinfutureunderamoreenergeticdevelopmentofsociety;and,finally,shemaintainedwithwarmthandeloquencethatwomanoughttohavethesamerightasmantobenefithernativecountrybytheexerciseofhertalents.ThegreatfaultofMrs.Oldandyounggatheredroundtheminthevillage—apoor,ignorant,half-savagepeople,butnotoneofthembegged;onthecontrary,theyweregenerousandhospitableaccordingtotheirmeans.WhateverpartookoftheextravaganceoftheRomanticschoolwastermeddécousu.Afterwards,liketheauthoressof"JaneEyre,"shespentsometimeasagovernessinaladies'schoolatStockholm.TheylandedatBalaklava,sincesofamousintheannalsoftheBritisharmy,foritwastherethat"thethinredline"resistedunmovedallthefuryandforceoftheMuscovitehosts.Dayadvancedrapidly.Trollopewasacourageouswoman,andpreferredtorelyuponherownresources.Itwasbeautiful,superblybeautiful,andthenitwastheCaucasus!TheCaucasus—anameassociatedwithsomanygrandhistoricmemories,withtheearliesttraditionsandmostfabulouscreeds—theabode,intheworld'sgreymorning,oftheraceswhencehavesprungsomanyfamousnations.Nextmorningwequestionedourhostinreferencetotheincident,butherepliedveryvaguely,andallwecouldgatherwas,thattheyounggirlhadcometoStavropoltoconsultafamousphysicianrespectinghercondition,whichofferedbutlittlehope.Youknow,doctor,youcan'tsupposethatifyouwereadirtylittleapothecary,keepingashopinanarrowstreet,aprimeministerwouldwastehistimeingoingtocallonyou;orthat,ifamanissittingoverhisglassalltheevening,orplayingwhist,orloungingallthemorning,anangelwillcometohim.Butitfrequentlyhappensthat,owingtothenumerousprairiefires,eitheraccidentalorintentional,nothingisvisiblebutavastexpanseofblackcharredground,hereandthererelievedbyafewpatchesofvividgreen,wherethegrassisoncemorespringingupundertheinfluenceoftherain.Shethenproducesherthimble,andasksforwork;itispresentedtoher,andtheeightladiesallstitchtogetherforsomehours.AfewdaysafterherdeparturefromSokna,thesemen,whohadarrangedtomurderandrobtheirunsuspectingpatroness,continuedtoexciteaquarrelamongthecameldrivers;andwhenMissTinnéquittedhertenttoascertainthecause,oneofthemshotherwitharifle[Pg214]bullet,woundinghertodeath."Havinglanded,wewentforastroll,amongneathousesandprettygardens,tothesuspension-bridgeovertheriver,followedbyacrowdofgirls,alldecoratedwithwreathsandgarlands,andwearingalmostthesamedressthatwehadseenatTahiti—acoloured,long-sleeved,loosegownreachingtothefeet.Onthe8ththeywerefairlyawayfromOldEngland.H.Therewasnosecretofthehumanheart,howeverstudiouslyconcealed,thatshecouldnotdiscover;noworkingsinthelistener'smindthatshewouldnotpenetrate;nointrigue,fromthelowcunningofvulgarintriguetothevastcombinationsofpolitics,thatshewouldnotunravel;nolabyrinth,howevertortuous,thatshewouldnotthread.Theirfingersarecoveredwithringsandtheirwristswithbracelets.Shehadsucceededinpullingupherhorsenearapagoda,whichshedidnotknow,becauseshehadnevervisitedthatquarterofPekin;hermasculinegarbattractedcuriosity,andshewasspeedilysurroundedbyanimmensecrowd.Thus,asSir[Pg285]FrederickBrucewasstillwiththem,therepresentativesofthethreegreatestPowersintheworldmettogetherinthisremotetown,which,previously,wasalmostunknowntoEuropeans.Hersojourninthatcountry—akindofPromisedLandforallthosewhointheirowncountryhaveneverenjoyedtherealisationoftheiraspirations—wasveryadvantageoustoher.ThejourneywascontinuedeastwarduntiltheyreachedthesettlementofanArabchief,namedMohammedChu,who,bymingledcraftandforce,hadsubjugatedtheneighbouringtribes,andassertedhisruleoverthispartoftheSoudan.These,however,willnotdetractfromMadamedeHell'sunquestionedmeritasacloseandexactobserver,endowedwithnoordinaryfacultyofpolishedandincisiveexpression,andafinecapacityforappreciatinganddescribingthepicturesqueaspectsofnature.Thebarbarianswho,inthelastagoniesoftheRomanEmpire,invadedanddevastatedEurope,issuedfromthesteppesandtable-landsofMongolia.InthelightofthedescendingsunthewhitepeaksandfieldsoftheAlpsstoodoutinthemost[Pg156]brilliantcolouring;theloftyJungfrauclothedherselfinrose-tint,theblueglaciersshonetransparently,andthelowerthesunsankthehigherandclearergleamedtheAlpinepinnacles....Thelatterisofadeepblue,lightlyrippled;hereandtheresmallwave-crests,whitewithfoam,surgeup,likelilies,fromtheinfinitedepths.Mons.andthe'ruffian'insistedonmygoingin,andhemadeagoodfire,andheatedsomecoffee,ragingallthetime....ShespokeofLordByron,andridiculedhispettyaffectationsandshamOrientalism.Othersexclaimedagainstahardihoodwillingtoencountersomanyperils.Whileshewasstillaninfant,hermotherdied;butitwashergoodfortunetofindintheloveofanonlysisternoinadequatesubstituteformaternalaffection.Perhapssomeofherdefectsareduetotheinfluencesamongwhichshelived—thatultraToryismoftheCastlereaghschoolwhichresentedeachmovementofreform,eachimpulseofprogress,asadirectrevolutionaryconspiracyagainsteverythingapprovedandestablishedby"thewisdomofourancestors"—thatnarrownessofthoughtandshallownessoffeelingwhichresistedallchange,evenwhenitsnecessitywasmostapparent.Butoverallthisbeauty—overtheluxurianceofvegetation,overthesoftnessofthetropicalair,overthesplendourofthesunshine,overtheperfumeoftheflowers—Pestilencehascastherfatalmiasmas,and,liketheswordofDamocles,theyellowfeverhangsthreateninglyovertheheadsofthosewhodwellamongtheselovelyscenes."[44]AftertouchingatMonteVideo,LadyFlorenceDixie'spartyproceededsouthwardstotheStraitsofMagellan,andlandedatSandyPoint,asettlementbelongingto[Pg441]theChilians,whocallit"LaColoniadeMagellanes."Heretheyprocuredhorsesandmulesandfourguides,and,havingcompletedallthenecessaryarrangements,rodealongtheshoreofthefamousStraittoCapeNegro.Itexistsbecauseoftheeffortsofhundredsofvolunteersanddonationsfrompeopleinallwalksoflife.TheSunbeam,ondiscoveringher,hove-to,andsentaboat,which,asitwasfoundimpossibletosavetheburningvessel,broughthercaptainandcrewonboard,andafterwardssavedmostoftheireffects,withtheship'schronometers,charts,andpapers.Inshort,thecountenancehasacommandingexpression.LadyBrassey,however,isnotatherbestwhentreatingoftheplacesandthingswhichantiquityhashallowed:itistheaspectsofthelifeofto-dayandthepicturesquescenesofsavagelandsthatarrestherattentionmostfirmly,andarereproducedbyhermostvividly.Butthatitmarksthelastresting-placeofsomegreatchieforheromaybeinferredfromthefactthatuntilwithinthelastfewyearsanimmenseKanatentstooduponthetransversecapstoneofthedolmen,andthatfeastswerecelebratedonthespot.[Pg446]AsMissCummingreminds,similarcelebrationstakeplaceinmanypartsofBritainandBrittany"atthestones"tothepresentday.This[Pg136]schemeamusedherfancyformorethanayear,andmeltedawayslowly,likesnowinwater."ItshistoryisthatofGreece,"saysaGermanwriter;"thesameheroismliveswithinitsborders,thenamesofitsheroesalonehavechanged."Weturn,therefore,withinterest,whilewritingtheselastpages,to"Magyarland,"alady's"NarrativeofTravelsthroughtheHighlandsandLowlandsofHungary."SheenteredHungaryonthesideofitsmajesticAljöla,orplains,whichextendoveranareaof5,400squaremiles,andinsomeplacesareinhospitablesandywastes;insome,highlycultivated;inothers,greenandflowerypastures,wherelargeherdsofhorsesandcattleroamunfettered.Thedifficulty[Pg98]was,howtogetbackintotheroad,andmanyafalsestartwasmadebeforeweeffectedit.ShebeggedwewouldnotwishtotakeherchildtoLondon,andsaid,'shewouldnotsellherformuchmoney.'Oneofthewiveswaspointedouttousasparticularlyhappyintheprospectofbecomingamother;andweweretakentoseetheroomwhichshewastoliein,whichwasallinreadiness,thoughtheeventwasnotlookedforformorethanhalfayear.FromGondokoroAlexinaTinnéreturnedtoKhartûm,wheretheEuropeancommunityreceivedherwithapplause.Onthecontrary,theirworkwasassignedtothemover-night,andtheirmistressemployedtheeveninghoursinarrangingtheiroccupationsforthefollowingday.Kalgan,thefrontiertownofMongolia,isnotsowellbuiltastheimperialcities;itisacommercialcentre,wherebazaarsabound,andopenstalls;thefootpassengerstouchthewallsofthehousesastheyfileby,oneaftertheother,andtheroadway,narrow,squalid,andmuddy,isthrongedwithchariots,camels,mules,andhorses.LongformidabletotheChinesepower,aportionoftheHioungumweredrivensouthintoCentralAsia.What,then,mustbethefeelingwithwhichtheyareregardedbythosetowhomthatreligionisthesurepromiseofeternallife?"Thefatigueandheathadexhaustedus,andnoonestirred,exceptthetwoBohrens,whoclimbedalittlehigherinsearchofwood,sothatwemightlightafire,andpreparesomerefreshment.Whenmorningcameatlasttheweatherclearedagooddeal,thoughthebreezecontinued.Sheherselfdidnotbelievetherewasanydanger;andinspiteofincreasingpainanddifficultyinbreathing,couldnotbepersuadedtoliedown,butwalkedaboutevenonthelastdayofherlife,whichwasalsothelastdayoftheyear.CeylonliesonthefarthersideoftheBayofBengal.CORINTH.Ofherbiographyweknownomorethanthat,aScotchwomanbybirth,shemarriedaFrenchdiplomatist,who,in1860,wasservingtheStateasFrenchambassadortotheCourtofPekin.Thevastchestinwhichthetreasurehadbeendepositedwasatlengthdiscovered;but,loandbehold!itwasfullofpebbles!Shesaid,however,thatthetimeswereapproachinginwhichthehiddentreasureoftheearthwouldbecomeavailabletothosewhohad'trueknowledge.'"AmongthesubjectsonwhichLadyHesterdiscoursed,withequalfluencyandearnestness,werereligionandrace.Thiswasplainspeaking;butMrs.Theseedtheysowedwas"flaming"seed,whichcontinuestoliveeveninthedarknessofthegrave;seedfromwhichtheharvestsofpeacespringupinalltheirglory.Ashorttimeafterherarrivalinthistown,sheattractedtheattentionofXavierHommairedeHell,sincesojustlycelebratedasatravellerandascientist.Totheirhairtheypaynoattention,andnonebutthegreatladieswhohaveresidedinthecapitalhaveanycombs.HereshemadetheacquaintanceofLordByron.ValparaisohousesareEuropeaninstyle,withflatItalianroofs.Theyarefullofboldandpicturesquedescriptions,andthestoryistoldwithunflaggingenergy.IfyouareoutsidetheUnitedStates,checkthelawsofyourcountryinadditiontothetermsofthisagreementbeforedownloading,copying,displaying,performing,distributingorcreatingderivativeworksbasedonthisworkoranyotherProjectGutenberg-tmwork.NewbyChiefExecutiveandDirectorgbnewby@pglaf.orgSection4.Everytreeisclothedwithathousandluxuriantcreepers,purpleandscarlet-blossomed;theyintheirturnsupportmyriadsoflichensandotherverdantparasites.Butforthesakeofhertwosons,OscarandAlfred,sheenduredthemiseriesofherpositionaslongasshewasable,anddevotedherselfwithassiduousself-sacrificetotheireducation.Ilearnedafewwaltzes,andsomeotherdanceairs,andthusprepared,venturedtochallengethejudgmentofthesevereAristarchusesofMadagascar.WhenonlyafewmilesfromKhartûm,hercaptaincametotellher,withsignsofthegreatestalarm,thatthesteamerwasleakingandmustshortlysink.Atasignalfromtheprince,twohorsemen,whohadremainedascloseaspossibletothedaringcentaur,seizedhimwithastonishingswiftness,andgallopedawaywithhimbeforethosewholookedoncouldunderstandthenewmanœuvre.Heloweredfirstonehandandthenanother,imitatingwithhisfingersthegallopofarunawayhorse;atlength,perceivingthatIdidnotunderstand,hepointedfixedlytothesoil.Anarchexpressionwasvisibleintheplayofthemusclesaboutthenose,andthegraciousnessofthesunnySouthwasinthesmile.Thefamousauthorof"Anthony"isstillfirstmasterintheart,moredifficultthantheworldingeneralbelievesittobe,ofrecordingtheexperiencesoftravel;heisamasterinit,becausehedoesnotmaketheattempt,whichmustalwaysbeunsuccessful,ofminutelyrecordingeveryparticularthatcomesunderatraveller'snotice,andbecauseheisgiftedbeyondordinarymeasurewiththeartandverveoftheraconteur.Thesweatpouredinprofusestreamsfromthestallion'sflanks,andhetrembledineverylimb.Hisrough,strongly-markedfeaturesweretheveryemblemofbrutalstrength,andshefeltherselftremblealloverinthinkingofwhathiswifemusthavesufferedinthefirstyearsoftheirunion."Iwasnotsomuchstruckbytheirheight,"shesays,"asbytheirextraordinarydevelopmentofchestandmuscle.Thiswasthemostdaringenterpriseofherlife,andofitselfstampsherasnoordinarywoman—as,intruth,awomanofscarcelylessheroictemperthantheboldestadventurersoftheothersex.Tahitiisanislandofmanywaters;throughonebrightcrystalmountain-stream,whichsweptalongtheravineoverastonybed,breakinganddimplingintoeddiesandtinywhirlpools,andinsomeplacesattainingadepthofthreefeet,MadamePfeifferandherguidewaded,orhalfswam,two-and-sixtytimes.Shehasaveryhandsomehouse,withwhitemarblestepsanddoor-posts,andadelicatesilverknockeranddoor-handle;shehasveryhandsomedrawing-rooms,veryhandsomelyfurnished(thereisaside-boardinoneofthem,butitisveryhandsome,andhasveryhandsomedecantersandcut-glasswaterjugsuponit);shehasaveryhandsomecarriageandaveryhandsomefreeblackcoachman;sheisalwaysveryhandsomelydressed;and,moreover,sheisveryhandsomeherself.Hedidmore;forheattachedtotheirtrainsomemandarinsofhighranktoensuretheexecutionofhisorders."Wearrived,"shewrites,"ateightinthemorningonthebanksoftheTenisci;immediatelythehorsesweretakenoutandforcedintotheferry-boat,inspiteoftheirdesperateresistance—Ididnotstir.Bothsexes,atthetimeofIdaPfeiffer'svisit,preservedthecustomoftattooing,thedevicesbeingoftenveryfancifulindesign,andalwaysartisticallyexecuted.NottoItaly,whereprevailstoomuchsirocco,andtherain,whenitoncebegins,rainsasifitwouldneverleaveoff;no,buthither,wheretheairispureastheatmosphereoffreedom,theheavensasfreefromcloudasthedwellingsofthegods;wherethetemplesontheheightslifttheglanceupwards,andtheseaandthemountainsexpandvasthorizonstotheeye,richincolour,inthought,andinfeeling;whereallthingsarefullofhope-awakeninglife—antiquity,thepresent,andthefuture."Whatacontrast,"shenaturallyremarks,"betweenthegentleworshipofMaryandthatofthesanguinaryTaura,whowasnotcontentwiththemariners'prayersandofferings,butdemandedhumanvictims!"Allthispartofthecoastisbarrenandbleak;abarrierofrockseemstoshutoutthestrangerfromthecelebratedpeninsulawhichwarlikenationshaveravagedandcommercialnationscoveted.Fortunately,thechangeofairandscene,andtheeasymovementgraduallyrestoredherphysicalenergies.TheBrahminsthenpresentedherwithalightedtorch,bearingwhich'Freshasaflowerjustblown,Andwarmwithlife,heryouthfulpulsesplaying,'shesteppedthroughthefataldoor,andsatwithinthepile.ThecontradictionswhichshefanciedshesawintheBibleandtheworldhadlongshakenherbelief,andraiseddoubtsinhersoultosuchadegreethat,attimes,withherreflectingandinquiringmind,theyseemedtodarkenlife."[Pg139]Theteacher,orguide,forwhomshehadinstinctivelyyearned,shefoundatChristianstadtintheheadmasteroftheHighSchool,theRev.Thehairfallsinnarrowbraidsovertheshoulders,andfromtheturbandroopsaheavysilverchain.Someroastedplantainsservedforsupper;afterwhichMadamePfeifferretiredtoherlonelycouchofdryleaves,tosleepasbestshemight.ShehaltedinsuccessionatJerusalem,Damascus,Aleppo,Baulbek,andPalmyra—everywheremaintaininganalmostregalstate—andbythestatelinessofherdemeanourandthesplendourofherpretensionsproducingapowerful[Pg307]impressiononthewanderingArabtribes,whoproclaimedherQueenofPalmyraandpaidheranenthusiastichomage.Hiscompanionhavingperformedthesameexploit,thetwoclambereduptotheprojectionofwhichwehavespoken,andagaindroppedintotheriverwaters;alesswonderfulfeatthantheirformer,butstillonerequiringbothpluckandskill.[Pg367]AmongthegamesmentionedbyLadyBrasseyarespear-throwing,transfixinganobjectwithadart,kona,anelaboratekindofdraughts,andtalu,whichconsistsinhidingasmallstoneunderoneoffivepiecesofclothplacedinfrontoftheplayers.ThenarrativeofherjourneyinAsiaMinorappearedatalaterdateinthewell-knownpagesoftheRevuedesdeuxMondes."Atfiveo'clockamountedtroopofsoldiers,incloserank,gallopedatfullspeeduptheCorso,inordertoclearthestreet,fornowthehorse-racewastobegin.Notabreathofwindwasstirring.Insteadofsheets,shehadBarbaryblankets,whicharelikethefinestEnglish,twooverandoneunderher.1.E.9.IfyouwishtochargeafeeordistributeaProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkorgroupofworksondifferenttermsthanaresetforthinthisagreement,youmustobtainpermissioninwritingfromboththeProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationandMichaelHart,theowneroftheProjectGutenberg-tmtrademark.Whatshallwesayofthemtoadisillusionizedyouth,whonolongerbelieveinanything,andknowneitherfaithnorculture,exceptin[Pg393]onething,money—forwhomSportandtheBoursehavereplacedtheliteraturewhichstrengthenedanddevelopedthefaculties,andthepoliticswhichmademencitizens?PeterBöklin,bywhoseteaching,example,andcharactersheprofitedgreatly.AftertraversingEuropewithimpetuousfeetshevisitedAthensincompanywithMr.Bruce.Fromthechillgreypeakabovethem,withitseternalsnowsandpathlessforests,downtotheplainswhichspreadbelowlikeacoldandwavelesssea,everythingunderwentastrangeandmarvellouslybeautifultransformation;for,asthesunroseabovethehorizoninallthefulnessofitsorbedsplendour,thegreyoftheplainsflushedintopurple,thewanpeaksgleamedlikerubies,thepinesshonelikesomanycolumnsofgold,andtheskyreddenedwithrose-huesliketheblushonafairface.Thecaneisintroducedbetweentworollers,setinmotionbysteampower,andpresseduntilitisquiteflatanddry;inthisstateitisusedforfuel.Themannersandcustoms,theidiosyncrasiesofaclasswillprobablybethemannersandcustomsandidiosyncrasiesofmostofitsmembers;butitbynomeansfollowsthatfromtwoorthreeindividuals[Pg391]wecansafelypredictthegeneralcharacteristicsoftheclasstowhichtheybelong.MadamedeHellwasstronglyimpressedbythewildpicturesquecharacterofthesceneryofthispartoftheCaucasus.'Theywhocannotbearstrongwinesshouldnotmakeuseofthem.'Forthisreason,therefore,IshallsoonleaveGreece,andreturntomyNorthernhome,thecloudyskiesandlongwintersofwhichwillnotdeludemeintofindinganearthlyexistencetoobewitchinglybeautiful.Theyareusuallysurroundedbyabeltofcultivatedground,wheredourra,sesamum,andculinaryvegetablesthriveabundantly.Thecharmofperpetualmotionisuponthem,asuponthatunfortunateJew,who,bendingbeneaththeweightofeighteenhundredyears,isstillsupposedtoberoamingoverthefaceoftheearth.Afterafewdays'restandrefreshment,theyresumedtheirjourney,advancingrapidlytowardstheCaucasus,ofwhichthehighestsummit,MountElburz,fromtimetotimeaffordedthemaglimpseofitsloftyhead,whichwasalmostalwaysshroudedinmist,asiftoconcealitfromtheprofanegaze.Onenteringherformerbedchamber,sheturnedpale,andpointedwithagesturetoherhusband'sportrait,separatedfromherownbyanantiqueclock,themotionlesshandsofwhichaddedtothemelancholyofthescene."Herintellectualfaculties,"sayshermaster,M.TherehewasreceivedbyLadyHester'sdoctor,withacommandfromthedoctor'smistressthathervisitorwouldrestandrefreshhimselfafterthefatiguesofthejourney.TheyweregladtoleavebehindthemthiswildAceldama.Aswelayslowlyrollingfromsidetoside,bothshipandboatweresometimesplainlyvisible,andthenagainbothwoulddisappear,forwhatseemedanage,inthedeeptroughoftheSouthAtlanticrollers."[30]SomethingLadyBrasseyhastosayaboutthePatagonians,ofwhomtheearlyvoyagersbroughthomesuchmythicalaccounts.So,too,intheromanceofEasterntravel,withitssurprisesandadventures,itsstronglightsandprofoundshadows,itfindsanexcitingcontrasttothatcommonplaceroutineofexistence,thatdailyroundofconventionalities,whichisimposeduponthembythesocialtyrannyoftheWest.Theexcitementwasredoubledatthedepartureofthedifferenttelegraphicdespatchessummoningfromtheirvillagehomestheguidesspokenofasthemostresoluteinthedistrict.ThearmiesoftheHunsfirstappearedonthebanksoftheVolga,theninPannonia,finallyonthebordersoftheMarneandthePo,ravagingthebeautifulplainswhere,fromthetimeofAntwor,thegeniusofmanhadaccumulatedmonumentsuponmonuments.MoreminuteandexactarethedetailswhichMrs.Theirmerits,indeed,werepreciselythosewhichEnglishreadersmightbesupposedtoappreciate.Wemaybeallowed,perhaps,tothinkofthissingularwomanasyearningandaspiringafteraloftyidealthroughoutasensitiveandtimorouschildhood;andinwaywardmusingsandvisionaryreflectionsfindingthatconsolationwhichshouldhavebeen,butwasnot,providedbymaternallove.Allhavegreatears,projectingstronglyfromthehead,andtheirhairisinvariablyblack.[Pg79]TheKalmuksaregenerallysmall,butwithwell-roundedfiguresandaneasycarriage.Ononeoccasionweweredelayedforaconsiderabletimebythebreakingofthesplinter-bar,torepairwhichwasatroublesomematter;indeed,Idon'tknowhowweshouldhavemanagedifwehadnotmetanativelad,whosoldushislonglassotobindthepiecestogetheragain.Fartheroff,thecamel-driversofTurkistan,turbaned,withaquilinenoseandlongblackbeard,leadalong,withstrangeairs,theircamelsloadedwithsalt;finally,theMongolianLamas,inredandyellowgarments,andshavencrowns,galloppastontheiruntrainedsteeds,instrikingcontrast[Pg286]tothecalmbearingofaSiberianmerchant,whostalksalonginhisthickfur-linedpelisse,greatboots,andlargefelthat.Ourmindswerealmostoverwhelmedwithamultitudeofemotions,excitedbytheprodigalnaturebeforeus,themagnificentvegetation,andthevarioushuesofforestandmountain,peak,crag,ravine,andsnowysummits.inhiscelebrated"Counterblast."Threeyearslatersheproducedher"ParisandtheParisians,"ofwhichM.Thetreesweresmallofsize,butsoexquisitelyarrangedthatonemightwell[Pg425]askwhatartist'shandhadplantedthem—scatteringthemhere,groupingthemthere,andtrainingtheirshapelyspirestowardsheaven.Butheractivemindcouldnotlongenjoyrepose,andin1851sheresumedherpen,selectingtheRomanCatholicChurchforhertargetin"FatherEustace."Thiswasfollowedin1852by"UncleWalter."Itisunnecessary,however,toenumeratethetitlesofherlaterworks,astheylackedmostofthequalitieswhichsecuredthepopularityofherearlier,andhavealreadypassedintooblivion.Noattendantsmetthem.AtlastIlaydownonthefloor,wrappedupinmyulster,andwedgedbetweenthefoot-stanchionsofourswingbedandthewardrobeathwartship;sothat,astheyachtrolledheavily,myfeetwereoftenhigherthanmyhead.Contiguoustotheseopensadeepcaldron,[Pg260]twoofthesidesofwhichhavebrokendowninruin,whiletheothersremainerectandprecipitous.OnoneoccasionsheencounteredanEgyptianpasha,returningwithabootyofslavesfromarecentrazzia.MadamedeBourboulonhadacruelproofoftheiractivity,thoughshehadfortifiedherfacewithamaskofhorsehair,andthrustherhandsintothethickestgloves.NorwaycanboastofthefinestwaterfallinEurope:thatoftheMaan-ily,orRiukan-foss,whichisasmajesticallybeautifulasthecascadeofGavarniorthefallsofSchaffhausen—which,indeed,hassometimesbeencomparedtoNiagaraitself.Byoneoftheseinfamoustraffickersinfleshandbloodourtravellersweregrosslyplundered.ThemoreIhavetravelled,themoreclearlyIhaveperceivedthatonecannotknowapeopleunlessoneknowsthoroughlyitsantecedents;thatis,ifonebenotfullyacquainted[Pg24]withitsannalsanditschiefwriters.Itwouldbemoreaccuratetodescribethemasmonologues,withoccasionalinterpolationsofassentonthepartofthelistener.IntheEast,asintheWest,sherevertedtothequestionofwoman'sindependence,therestorationofhersextoitsnaturalandlegitimatefreedom.Thetwochiefstreetsarebroadandmuchfrequented,especiallybyhorsemen,foreveryChilianisbornahorseman,andisusuallymountedonasteedworthyofagoodrider.TheTahitianwomenhavealwaysbeennotoriousfortheirimmodesty;andnotwithstandingthepastlaboursofEnglishmissionaries,theislandcontinuestobethePolynesianPaphos.Itwaspitchdark,andIcouldnotthinkwhathadhappened;soIrushedondeck,andfoundthat,theweatherhavingmoderatedalittle,somekindsailor,knowingmyloveoffreshair,hadopenedtheskylightrathertoosoon,andoneoftheangrywaveshadpoppedonboard,delugingthecabin.Thesenseoffailuremusthavebeenverybitter,butsheboreherselfwithallherwontedpride,andmadeneithercomplaintnorconfession.Fortunatelyherhusbandcameonthescene,andtohimMadamePfeifferpreferredhercomplaint,threateningtoleavehishouseandseekshelterelsewhere,wellknowingthattheArabsconsiderthisagreatdisgrace.Inthecafémayoftenbeheardthesoundofaguitar,accompaniedbyadullmonotonousstrain,incelebrationofwarlikeexploitsorloveadventures;theArabsgivetoittheirpleasedattention.Afterwardsweplayedarubberatwhist(forwehadfoundsomecards).Underthebalconysomesoldiersweregoingthroughvariousevolutions,whichterminated,comicallyenough,inasuddenliftingupoftherightfootasifithadbeenstungbyawasp.Nonebuttheirmotherhadevertoldthemthattheywerebeautiful;andthisreflection[Pg113]enhancedthecharmoftheirbeautyinmyeyes.In1849-1850shepublishedher"HistoryofEnglandduringtheThirtyYears'Peace,"athoroughlygoodbitofhistoricalwork,notlessadmirableforthegeneralfairnessofitstonethanforthelucidityofitsnarrative.Theconventwasabroad,greymassofirregularbuilding,which,fromitsposition,aswellasfromthegloomyblanknessofitswalls,gavetheideaofaneglectedfortress;ithad,infact,beenaconventofgreatsize,andlikemostofthereligioushousesinthispartoftheworld,hadbeenmadestrongenoughforopposinganinertresistancetoanymerecasualbandofassailantswhomightbeunprovidedwithregularmeansofattack.Sheevidentlydesiredherhearertobelievethatshehadathercommandallthespellswhichexercisecontroloverthecreaturesoftheunseenworld,butrefrainedfromemployingthembecauseitwouldbederogatorytoherexaltedrankintheheavenlykingdom.ButperhapsthedangerfromdiseasewasnotsoimminentastheperiltheyincurredinpenetratingintothechosenterritoryofIslam.Aconsiderableportionofhertime,herenergies,andherincomewasdevotedtobenevolentpurposes,andthealleviationofhumansufferingsheacceptedasoneofherholiestandhappiestduties.Tenyearspassed,andthebaronessnevercrossedthebordersofherestate.Nowanotherstaircase,leadingtoacircularplatforminwhitemarble,inthemiddleofwhichrisesthegrandmausoleum.Sheofferednoobjection.TheseporcinetreasuresareastenderlycaredforaswasHamlet'smotherbyHamlet'sfather.Thevoyage,tooneofsovividanimaginationandofsuchprofoundreligiousimpressions,[Pg168]wasfulloflivinginterest.Shetookagreatdelightinreading,and,ofcourse,readomnivorously,withaspecialpreferenceforhistory,poetry,andpolitics.Thisattemptatextortionwaspromptlyandfirmlyrefused;hethenreducedthechargetofortydollars,whichwaspaid."SuchwasthechamberofLordChatham'sgrand-daughter!Diogeneshimselfcouldnothavefoundfaultwithitsappointments!"Butthethoughtfulobserverwillregrettheindulgedself-willandtheexaggeratedegotismwhichplacedinsuchapositionawomanwhosepowerfulintellectmighthavebeenappliedtothebenefitofthecommunity.Theylookedatmewithcuriousattentiveness.Thereitis,onlyafewpacesfromus.YetIfeltsomewhatuneasyatthesymptomsofindispositionwhichwouldnotbeconcealed.Itfailed,however,andthoseconcernedinitwereruthlesslypunished.InourEurope,wherewomen,exposedtothegazeofcrowds,soquicklylearntheartofcoquetry,theimaginationwouldnotbeabletoformsuchatypeofloveliness.Therewasanenormousrockfish,weighingaboutthreehundredpounds,withhideousfaceandshinyback,andfins;largeray,andskate,andcuttlefish—theoctopus,orpieuvre,describedwithsomuchexaggerationinVictorHugo's"TravailleursdelaMer,"tosaynothingofthelargeprawnsforwhichthecoastisfamous—prawns[Pg348]eightortenincheslong,withantennæoftwelveorfourteeninchesinlength.Onceyouhavepreparedyourfoundationsandwoodworkofthedimensionsofsomanymats,youmaygotoashopandbuyaready-madehouse,whichyoucanthensetupandfurnishinthelightJapanesefashioninacoupleofdays;butthensuchahouseisfittedonlyforaJapaneseclimate.Ihadbeenforewarnedoftheperilsofourexpedition.Itwasnearlythreeo'clockbeforewecouldtearourselvesaway."Thisisverynaturalandsimple,thoughitishardlywhatweshouldexpectfromacultivatedwomanaftervisitingthememorialsofGreekartandhistory,andthegreatandbeautifulcityofthe"violetmoon."A[Pg374]greaterenthusiasm,amorelivingsympathy,mightsurelyhavebeenprovokedbythesightoftheblueseawhereThemistoclesrepulsedthenaviesofPersia,andtheglorioushillonwhosecrestSt.PaulspaketothewonderingAthenians,andthemonumentsofthegeniusofPraxitelesandPhidias.Hereadelayofsomedaysoccurred,whiletheyawaitedfurthersuppliesofprovisions,andanumberofporterstocarrytheirbaggage,fromKhartûm.Unfortunatelyitisoneoftheworld'scloacinæ,akindofmoralcesspool,intowhichflowstheuncleanness,thefilthofmanynations;therendezvousofItalians,Germans,Frenchmen,andEnglishmen,whomtheirowncountrieshaverepudiated;politicalgamblers,whohadplayedtheirlastcardandlosttheirlaststake;fraudulentbankrupts,unscrupulousspeculators—menwhohavenothingtohope,nothingtolose,andaretoocallous,ortoodesperate,ortoomiserabletofear.Sheresignedherselftoherfatewithherusualcalmcourage,andproceededtodrawupandprintherautobiography.Hisdescriptionsofthescenerythroughwhichhisboatconveyedhimareverygraphic.AtthetimeofMadamedeHell'svisitshestillsufferedacutelyfromsomefragmentsofacombthatremainedinherhead.Theyaretemperate,hospitable,andorderly.There,beforeIhadtimetorecollectmyself,theseladiescarriedmeoffbyforceofarms,andinstalledmeuponakangorcouch,whereIhadscarcelystretchedmylimbsbeforeIwasofferedtheinevitabletea.Agorgeousrainbow,onefootofwhichrestedonthehighestpeakoftheCaucasus,whiletheotherwasenvelopedinthemistsofevening,rosebeforethemforafewmoments,likeanimageofhope,andthenslowlyfadedintothin[Pg93]air.Atthismomenttheairresoundedwithnoisydetonations:fusees,serpents,andpetardsexplodedinalldirections—atthegate,inthegardens,evenuponthewallsofthelegation.Theleadercontinuallystruckfirewithaflintthatthesparksmightgivehiscompanionssomeindicationofthecourse.Itisaslargeasthatofagreatbull,sothegreatIndianphilosophermusthavehadamonstrousjaw!MadamePfeifferarrivedatMadrasonthe30thofOctober.TheFrenchofficersfittedupaprettylittlecabinforheraccommodation,andwithoutmoreadoshetookupherquartersonboardtheSeignelay,withnootherescortorchaperonagethanthatofthegoodbishop.Onthe2ndofDecembertheSunbeamarrivedatthe"QueenofthePacific,"thelovelyislandofTahiti,or,asitwasfirstcalled,Otaheite.Onthe10thofMarchtheladiessteamedintotheportofMeschra-el-Rey,intheBahr-el-Ghazal,andjoinedDr.Heughlin.Nothing,however,coulddisturbthecheerfultemperamentofMadamedeBourboulon,whorosesuperiortoeveryinconvenienceorvexation,andthisbonhommieisthechiefcharmofherbook.FromthedaysofBougainville,itsdiscoverer,downtothoseof"theEarlandtheDoctor,"whorecentlyvisitedit,Tahitihasmovedtheadmirationofvoyagersbythecharmsofitsscenery.Hereandtherethepalm-treestoweredamongthem.[Pg385]MRS.Ifyoudonotagreetoabidebyallthetermsofthisagreement,youmustceaseusingandreturnordestroyallcopiesofProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworksinyourpossession.They,whenthereception[Pg90]wasover,remarkedwithsurprisethattheprincehadnotcrossedthethreshold,buthadsimplyputhisheadinatthedoortoanswertheirquestionsandconversewithhiswife.Eachofthesethreewasaslovelyandasgracefulashercompanions.[Pg270]MADAMEDEBOURBOULON.Sometimestheyrolledinimmenseblockswithasullenroar;sometimeswhirlwindsofsnowfelluponuslikeshowersofheavyhail.InsomerespectsnaturehasbeenveryliberaltotheTurkishpeople;butallthegiftsshehasbestoweduponthem,theirinstitutionstendtodebaseandinvalidate.Nodoubtitisthismotivewhich,indifferentways,hasinfluencedthecourageousladies,whosenamesinthepresentcenturyhavebeen[Pg185]sobrilliantlyinscribedontherecordofEasterntravel;suchasLadyHesterStanhope,LadyDuffGordon,LadyBaker,MissEdwards,andLadyBlunt.Thatfromthisfemininetyrantsheobtainedsomanyconcessions—suchaspermissiontotravelabouttheisland,andevenadmissiontotheroyalpresence,wouldseemtoargue[Pg262]thepossessionofsomefacultyoffascination.Theimpulsethusgiven,uninterruptedlypropagateditselftotheprimitivecountryoftheFins,onthebanksoftheUral,whenceirruptedatorrentofHuns,Avars,Chasars,anddiversmixturesofAsiaticraces.Ofthetourandtheexcursionshehaspublishedabrilliantnarrative,whichitisimpossibletoreadwithoutpleasure,sopolishedisthestyle,andsosharplydefinedarethedescriptions.Atlengththemandarinoftheredbuttoncametotaketheambassador'sorders,andgavethesignalofdeparture.Sheresolutelyshuthereyes,andthuswasabletosaythatshehadneverseenhercountry'soppressor.Atlasttheystartedintotheinterior,andbegantheirexplorationofthewideregionofthePampas.Irarelyseeanybirdsorbutterflies,onlyafewlizardsandanoccasionaldragon-fly;andthevoiceofsinging-birds,suchasgladdenourheartsinhumbleEnglishwoods,isheremute;sowehaveatleastthiscompensationforthelackofallthewildluxuriancewhichhereissofascinating."FromMissCumming'sanimatedpageswemightcontinuetoborrowwithadvantagetoourreaders."Thereareangelsofdifferentdegrees,fromthehighestdowntothedevil.ButonthearrivalofAlexinaTinné,hiscourageseemedtodeserthim;andhewasterrifiedbytheTurkishsoldierswhomountedguardonthesteamer'sdeck.FrancesMilton,sowellknowninEnglishliteratureunderhermarriednameofTrollope,wasbornatHeathfieldParsonageinHampshire,in1787."Theguest-housewaspreparedwiththeostentationwhichtheOrientalsarefondofdisplayingonalloccasions.AsIcouldnotmakeupmymindtoadopttheiropinion,Almerrose,andlayingtheladderatmyfeet,said,withmuchenergy,'Adieu,Ileaveyou,formyconscienceasanhonestmanforbidsmetolendahandtoaperilwhichIknowtobeinevitable.'"Icalledhimback,andrisinginmyturn,exclaimed:'WillthedifficultiesbeasgreatinthewayofanascentoftheMönch?Theescortpurposelydelayedthemontheirjourney;sothat,insteadofreachingthecoast,astheyshouldhavedone,ineightdays,thetimeactuallyoccupiedwasthree-and-fifty.AtthetimeofIdaPfeiffer'svisit,only[Pg236]onepairwerelivinginthisotiosestate,andthenumberseldomexceedsthreepairs.PointdeGallepresentsacuriousmixtureofraces.WhenpursuedbytheRussians,theywouldleapthemostrapidtorrents.Sheshowednoinclinationforthefrivolousamusementsofafrivoloussociety.Itwouldbedifficulttoimagineagranderpicture,oronemoreentirelyinharmonywiththeideasevokedbytheVolga,towhichitscourseofupwardsofsixhundredleaguesassignstheforemostplaceamongEuropeanrivers."Attheoutsetofherjourney,MadamedeHellhadexclaimed:"Whathappinessitistoescapefromtheprosaicdetailsofevery-daylife,fromsocialobligations,fromthedullroutineofhabit,totakeone'sflighttowardsthealmostunknownshoresoftheCaspian!Itisstrange,butitprovesthatmyvocationisthatoftourist,thatwhatwoulddauntthemajorityofwomenisreallywhatcharmsmemostintheforecastofthisjourney."Assuredly,thedetailsofevery-daylifewereleftbehindwhenthecourageousladyembarkedupontheVolga,andsetoutforthefamouscityofAstrakhan.Starkandrigid,likethestemofanoldtree,thecrocodiletookhisrest,sometimeswithwide-openjaws:hereandtherethehippopotamusliftedhisgiantheadfromthetroubledwaters,nowscatteringtheminshowersofspray,nowraisinghisfearfulvoice,whicheveryechoofthedistantshoresrepeated."Beforecomingtoadefinitedecision,wewaitedthearrivalofHansJaunofMeyringen,whohadaccompaniedM.WeweresailingontheseaofSyriatowardstheEast—thecountryofthemorning—andwhatabrightnessshonearoundus!IthinkthatneverbeforehadIseenthesunsoluminous,soinstinctwithflame,ortheskyandtheseasotransparent.Heshowedherthatitwasnotenoughtocomposewithease,shemustlearntothinkclearlyandsoundly;andthatgraceofstyleandpicturesquenessofdescriptionwereoflittleavailtothenovelistwithoutthecreativeidea.Mostsocialquestionsareatworkunderanapparentcalm,andoffer,therefore,subjectswellworthyofcarefulstudy,especiallytosograveandclearanintellectasthatofPrincessDorad'Istria,whopossessed,inthehighestdegree,thefacultyofsteadymeditationamidstthemovementandtheworld-stirthatsurroundedher.Withsomedifficultytheygainedthesummit—tostand,silentandspell-bound,incontemplationofaspectaclewhichmorethanrealizestheterrorsoftheancientPhlegethon.Addtotheirdailyoccupations,ifsuchtheycanbecalled,theirjoininginoccasionalgames,suchaschessandknuckle-bones,andyouhaveacompletepictureoftheexistence—wewillnotsaylife—ofaKalmukpaterfamilias.Mybrainfeelsundertheconstantsenseofbeingnotmyself,andtheintroductionofthisnewfearintomydailylifemakeseachdaysufficientlytryingtojustifythelongingfordeath,whichgrowsuponmemoreandmore."Thislongingwasfulfilledonthe27thofJune,1876,whenHarrietMartineauclosedinpeaceherlongandactivelife.Hiswife,towhomachildhadjustbeengiven,wasunabletoaccompanyhim.Threemonthsofthesummerof1864shespentatArstawiththepatriarchalfamilywhohadbecometheownersofthepaternalestate,andenjoyedsomuchpeaceandpleasantnessthatsheresolvedtoaccepttheirinvitationtolodgewiththempermanently.This,however,didnotsatisfythem,andtheyaskedforherpassport,whichshecouldnotshowthem,asitwasinherportmanteau.ABonzehadofferedherandhercompanionsacoupleofwaxtaperstolightinhonourofthegod.Theresheremaineduntilmid-September,makingashortexcursionintotheinterior;crossingrivers,penetratingintoswampyforests,andvisitingvillagesinhabitedbyaquitenakedpopulation,feedinguponbats,snakes,termites,andrawroots.ProjectGutenbergisaregisteredtrademark,andmaynotbeusedifyouchargefortheeBooks,unlessyoureceivespecificpermission.[Pg66]MADAMEHOMMAIREDEHELL.Thefollowingday,impelledhalfbyawishtogethismoney,andhalfbyafearthattheymighthavespokeninearnest,herepairedtotheaddresstheyhadgivenhim,andlearnedthatthetwounfortunateyoungmenhadbeenfoundthatmorninglyingonabedwhichoneofthemhadhiredsomeweeksbefore.Thesewomenallowtheirdirtymantlesorveilstofallfromtheheaddownupontheback,anddonotcovertheface.JohnBulliscertainlyverypolitetotheladies,butwhenheisbentonenjoyinghimselfatthetable,heputsthemtothedoor—thatis,hebegsthemtobesoobligingastogointoanotherroomandmaketeaforhim,'hewillfollowthemimmediately.'Jonathandoesnotactlikethis;helovesthesocietyofwomen,andwillnotbedeprivedofit;heisthemostgallantmanuponearth,andifhesometimesforgetshisgallantry,itisbecausehehasforgottenhimself;butthisdoesnotoftenhappen.Onherheadsheworeawhiteturban;fromherforeheadaveil,oryashmak,ofpurplewoolfelldowntohershoulders.Alexina'sjournal,itissaid,preservesmanycuriousdetailsinunconsciousillustrationofthemixedcharacterofthisexpedition,whichmightalmosthavebeenthatofanewCleopatragoingtomeetanewMarkAntony;weseethebeautythereaswellastheheroine;thehandsomewoman,mindfulofhertoiletteappliances,aswellasthecourageousexplorer,athirstforknowledge.Hernailsweredyedblack,andher[Pg413]feetdyedblackinchequers.MadamedeBourboulon,asawoman,maybeexcusedherlittlebitofsarcasm,thoughshemusthaveknownandoughttohaverememberedwhathasbeendoneandenduredbyEnglishmissionariesinthenameandforthesakeofthecrossofChrist.FromTahitiwepassontoHawaii,thechiefislandoftheSandwichgroup,andthecentreofacivilizationthatmayonedayinfluencethedirectionofthegreatcurrentsofcommerceinthePacific.IntheLebanonshehadavisionofinstallingherselfassuccessortoLadyHesterStanhope.Itwasverycold,andahardfrostlayontheground.theCorsowascrowdedwithallkindsofcostumesandmasksincarriagesandonfoot;the[Pg161]windowsandbalconiesandroofswerethrongedwithdominoesandfantasticcostumes;bouquetsofflowersandcomfitsshowereddownthroughtheair....Thatwedeservedthepenaltyofdeathwasapointonwhichtheagreementwassoonverygeneral;onlythemodeinwhichweweretobedispatchedfurnishedthematterforprolongeddiscussion.Lookingeast,gorgesopenedtothedistantplains,therefadingintopurple-grey.Thewell-to-doKalmuksweartwolongtunics,oneofwhichisfastenedroundthewaist,buttheusual[Pg80]dressconsistsonlyoftrousersandajacketofskinwithtightsleeves.Aroundithangsallthevaguepoetryoftheages,visibleonlytotheimaginationthroughthemysteriousveilofantiquity."AtGeorgieftheyrestedonthethresholdoftheCaucasus."ThemenallwearpavusofManchestercottonstuff,preparedexpresslyfortheseisles,andofthemostwonderfulpatterns.Sheclamberedoverrocksandstones;sheforcedherwaythroughintertangledbushes;and,though[Pg231]severelywoundedinhandsandfeet,neverfalteredforamoment.Atdaybreak,however,agreylightspreadoverthescene,andthetravellersfoundthemselvessurroundedbyaringofloftymountains,risingoneabovetheotheringrandgradation,andsuperblydominatedbyonemighty,snow-crowned,massivesummit."TheAbbess,"anovel,washerthirdeffort;andthen,inthefollowingyear,cameanotherrecordoftravel,"BelgiumandWesternGermanyin1833."HerConservativeinstinctsfoundlesstooffendtheminContinentalthaninAmericansociety,andhersketches,therefore,whilenotlessvivid,aremuchbetterhumouredthaninherAmericanbook.Thisvastvarietyofscenesshesketchesalwayswithaquickanddexterouspencil.ThebodywaswrappedinAbyssiniancloth,coveredwithleaves,andinterredintheshadeofmelancholyboughs,amidst"thatmagnificentnaturewhosetrueservantandworshipperhewas."AtBongo,inthelandofDur,Dr.Heughlinsucceededinhiringanadequatenumberofporters,thoughataheavyprice,andreturnedtoMeschraafteranabsenceofsixweeks."TheQueenhesitatedbetweenthesedifferentproposals;butshewouldcertainlyhaveadoptedandcarriedoutoneofthem,ifthePrinceRakotohadnotcomeforwardasourtutelarygenius.Thishasbeenridiculedasaquixoticact;buttoourthinkingitwasanactofgenerouswomanlyenthusiasm,whichmaybeacceptedasredeemingmanyofthefaultsandfailingsofMissTinné'scharacter,andcompensatingforthefrivolitieswhichovercloudedtherealmotiveofherenterprise.Herinquisitiveandabnormallyactivemindearlybeganitsinquiriesintothemysteriesofreligiousfaith,butasthesewerenotconductedinapatientorreverentspirit,itisnowonder,perhaps,thattheyprovedunsatisfactory.Atotherplacesitbroadensintoconsiderablelakes.[Pg122]MADAMEHOMMAIREDEHELL.Theirdressissimple,consistingofa'chiripa'orpieceofclothroundtheloins,andtheindispensableguanacocape,whichishunglooselyovertheshouldersandheldroundthebodybythehand,thoughitwouldobviouslyseemmoreconvenienttohaveitsecuredroundthewaistwithabeltofsomekind.Anortherlycoursetookittothegreatsea-portofChili—Valparaiso,whenceitreachedacrossthePacifictothebeautifulgroupoftheSocietyIslands,visitingTahiti,theEdenofthesouthern[Pg346]seas.Whenthesunrose,theytooarose;anditwaswelltodoso,assunrisefromamountaintopissuchaspectacleofgloryasfeweyeshavethehappinesstolookupon.Prawns,EggOmelette,andPreservedGrapes.Mrs.Onthe26thofApril,hereyesweregladdenedwithaviewofthe"island-Eden"oftheSouthernseas,Tahiti,thelargestandmost[Pg229]beautifuloftheSocietygroup.Whilethefirst-named[Pg170]oftheseeminentpersonagesrodeinadvance,Mr.Levison,theprofessor,remainedbythesideofMissBremerintherear.Itwaserectedtoenabletheinmatesoftheharemtowatch,unseen,themartialexercisesthatwerepractisedthere.Shemadeherselfmistressofninelanguages.ThekabarconcernedusEuropeans,andmettodecideourfate.TheheadoftheJungfrauwassurroundedwithasoftgloryoflight,whichincreasedinbeautyandbrightness,tillatlengththemoon,shininginfullsplendour,slowlyadvancingabove,crownedtheTitanesswithbeauty."[13]Apartfromitspicturesquedescriptions,however,MissBremer'sbookonSwitzerlandandItalyishardlyasuccess.Theyknew,however,theperilsoftheglaciers,foreverydaytheyriskedtheirlivesamongthem.Yet,fromonepointofview,thesemenareright.Ononeoccasion,whileMissTinné'smenwerevainlyseekingtotrackthegreatriver-horse,ahugeelephant,whichhadprobablypushedforwardtoofarintotheriverinthekeennessofitsthirst,wascaughtupinthecurrentanddrivenagainstoneoftheboats.Onemanputsononecoat,andanotheranother.Asforcereals,whichEuropeansvaluesohighly,theiruseisscarcelyknown;itisatrareintervalsonlythatsomeofthembuybreadoroatcakefromtheneighbouringRussians.Conspicuousamongthelattershoneagorgeouspassionflower,withorange-colouredfruitasbigaspumpkins,thatoverspreadeverythingwithitsvigour."ThepoorlittledingybelongingtotheMonkshavenhadbeencastawayassoonasthecrewhaddisembarkedfromher,andtherewassomethingmelancholyinseeingherslowlydriftawaytoleeward,followedbyheroarsandvarioussmallarticles,asiftorejointhenobleshipshehadsolatelyquitted.Petherick,thewifeoftheEnglishconsulatKhartûm;butnodoubthermaindesirewastosolvethegreatenigmaoftheNiliticsphinx,andshowthatawomancouldsucceedwheremenhadfailed.TheirjourneythroughthecountryoftheDonCossacksweshallpassover,asofferingnothingofspecialnoveltyorinterest,andtakeupMadamedeHell'snarrativeatthepointofher

arrivalonthebanksoftheVolga.Assistedbythecaptain,sheatlengthdescriedonarockyheadlandasolitarychapel,dedicated,shewastold,totheVirginMother.Thisarrangementnecessarilydispenseswithdoorsandwindows.InadditiontoMonsieurandMadamedeBourboulon,theFrenchcaravanconsistedofsixpersons:—CaptainBouvier,oftheEngineers;asergeantandaprivateofthesamebranchoftheservice;anartillerist;asteward(intendant);andayoungChristian,anativeofPekin,whomM.Astool,alittlebronzeornament,andaChinavase,inwhichabranchofcherry-blossomandafewflag-leavesweregracefullyarranged,occupiedit.Itwaswithgreatdifficultywecouldmakethemletgotherope,whenwewentahead,andIwasquite[Pg356]afraidtheywouldbeupset."Besides,tounderstandnationsthoroughly,itisnecessarytoexamine,withoutanyaristocraticprejudice,alltheclassesofwhichtheyarecomposed.TheBohrensarrivedwithsomebrushwood,andsoonafirecrackledandsparkledcheerily,thewaterboiled,and,tomygreatsatisfaction,rhododendronflowersandfragmentsofjuniperwereputintoit—mycompanionsassuringmethatthiskindofteawasexcellentandverywholesome.Inacleftofthemountain,justabovethevillage,stoodalittlemonasterychurch,wonderfullypicturesque.Shortlyafterherreturnshegavetotheworldavolumeofpoetry,entitled"ReveriesofaTraveller,"aworkstronglywritten,thoughtful,andemotional,whichhasneverobtainedthereputationitfullydeserves.[Pg124]In1846thetwotravellersdepartedonasecondexpeditiontotheEast,whichwascutshortbytheprematuredeathofM.Almosteverybodyelsewaspuffingawayatatchibouqueornargileh,andtheplacewasonecloudofsmoke.DescendingthelastspursoftheCaucasus,ourtravellersnextdayenteredupontheregionoftheplains.TheMongoliannomadloveshishorseasthesailorloveshisship.When,asnotinfrequentlyhappened,hewasinwantofmoney,heexercisedtherightofthestronghand,and,attheheadofhisfreebooters,salliedforth;destroyingvillages,massacringtheirmaleinhabitants,seizinguponthewomenandchildrentosellasslaves,andcarryingoffthecattle.Theprince'spalacewasbuilt,shesays,intheChinesestyle,andpleasantlysituatedon[Pg74]thegreensideofagentleslope,aboutonehundredfeetfromtheVolga.Butthereadermustpleasetoreceiveaverydifferentimpression;nothingcangiveanyfitideaofthetremendoustumultofadayofthawatSpitzbergen.Theexteriorwallsundertheverandah,aswellasthepartitionsbetweentheotherrooms,aresimplyscreensofwoodenlattice-work,coveredwithwhitepaper,andslidingingrooves;sothatapersonwalksinoroutatanypartofthewallhethinkspropertoselectorfindsconvenient.Hergreatkinsman'sdeathhadnecessarilyexcludedherfromthecouncilsofministers,andcloseduponherthedoorsofcabinets.ShewentabouttheworldasshewentaboutthestreetsofVienna;withthesamereserveandquietnessofdemeanour,apparentlyunconsciousthatshewasexposingherselftodeath,andhazardsworsethandeath;socalmlyandunaffectedlycourageousthatshemakesusalmostforgethowtrulygrandwasherheroism,howsublimewasherpatience,andhowcolossalherdaring.FromCeylontheysailedtoAden,atthemouthoftheRedSea,oneofthosestrongstrategicalpointsbywhichEnglandkeepsopentheocean-highwaystohercommercialfleets.Nofearofdanger,however,couldmovethecalm,courageoussoulofLadyHester.Herearliereffortswereinverse;butafteratimesheessayedtoclotheherthoughtsinprose,andinproseofaveryvividandforciblekind.Butintwominutesitwasaskedforagain,andwentroundasecondtime;everybody[Pg414]laughingasloudaseverateach"Bo!"sothatthejokewasrepeatedathirdtime.ShecannotaccustomherselftoitButyouwillgiveherbackhersight,willyounot,Bessadée?"AsthePrincessChristinashookherhead,andbegantoprotestherpowerlessness,hepluckedtheskirtofherrobeandmadeherasigntobesilent.Wewereliterallyonthebrinkofacompletecollapse,respirationfailedus,andforsomeminutesIexpectoratedblood.FrancewasnottheonlyfieldofstudywhichshefoundinEurope.I.Her[Pg186]fatherwasaDutchmerchant,who,afteracquiringalargefortuneinDemerara,wasnaturalizedinEngland,andfinallytookuphisresidenceatLiverpool.Occasionallyshedescendedtoinferiortopics,anddisplayedherconspicuousabilitiesasamimicandsatirist.Startingfromthesummitofahilloramountain,theysweepdownthegrassyslopesatafuriouspace,preservingtheirbalancewithadmirabledexterity.Butintheworstfuryofthecurrenttheropebroke,andtheboatsdriftingdownward,seemeddoomedtodestruction.[Pg134]FREDERIKABREMER.YetamIgladthatIshallbeabletosaytothemenandwomeninthefarNorth,'IftherebeanyoneamongyouwhosuffersbothinbodyandsoulfromthebleakcoldoftheNorth,orfromtheheavyburdenofitslife,lethimcomehither.Soonweheardthedistantroarofthunder.Whileshewasloungingonhercushions,Ithoughtherthehandsomestandmostgraceful,aswellasthehappiest,oftheparty;butwhensherosetodance,thecharmwasdestroyedforever.-Youprovide,inaccordancewithparagraph1.F.3,afullrefundofanymoneypaidforaworkorareplacementcopy,ifadefectintheelectronicworkisdiscoveredandreportedtoyouwithin90daysofreceiptofthework.Trollopedescribesthem;nodoubtsuchdaysarepossibleinAmericansocietynow,and,forthatmatter,inEnglishsocietyalso.Everythingweariedme,exceptthesightoftheJungfrauandofPierre,whoseemedtomeafriendintowhosehandsIhadentrustedmydearesthope.Woulditbejusttotaketheseasthetypesoftheregiment?MostpeoplestartatourWebsitewhichhasthemainPGsearchfacility:ThisWebsiteincludesinformationaboutProjectGutenberg-tm,includinghowtomakedonationstotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation,howtohelpproduceourneweBooks,andhowtosubscribetoouremailnewslettertohearaboutneweBooks.Thenativesnavigateitinlightcanoes,whichthey[Pg205]managewithgreatdexterity.Buttheirpracticalgoodsenseisindisputable,andtheyillustratethecharacteristicsofFrederikaBremerasawriter.Therushingwindsoontorethemaside,anddrovethemintothegorges,whencedescend,intheshapeofafan,theunformedmassesofthelowerglacier,soiledwithablackishdust.Itistrue,shesays,thatslaveryisanevilto-day,butto-morrowitwillbeaboontohumanity,andaboontothenegroworld.However,shewasoftooclearanintellectandtoostrongofheartnottorecognizethatthetiesofdutyboundhertothisworld;shehadtobringupandeducateherchildren,andtocompleteandpublishtheimportantworksherhusbandhadbegun.Thecurrentofthestreamisusedtoturnmanymills,someofthemostprimitivecharacter,butalldoingtheirworkwell,thoughthestrongwater-poweriscapableofmuchfullerdevelopment....AtavillagenearKerkuthecaravanhaltedfortendays.Shetoldmethatononeoccasion,whentherewasgoodreasontoexpecthostilities,afar-seeingArabcreatedgreatexcitementinthecampbydeclaringthathecoulddistinguishsomemovingobjectsupontheveryfarthestpointwithinthereachofhiseyes.Oneofthetravellersleapedfromhissteed,seizedhisassailantbythethroat,and,holdingtohisheadaloadedpistol,indicatedhisdeterminationtoblowouthisbrains.Therewasnocounterpane,but,asoccasionrequired,awoollenabak[Pg329]orcloakwouldbeusedorafurpelisse.Thisoverlandroute,astheyforesaw,wouldinvolvetheminmanydifficulties,fatigues,andhardships.Shestruggledwithhim,andpointingtothecaravan,saidshebelongedtoit;butthefellowputhishandonhermouth,andflung[Pg250]herintothecar,whereshewasfirmlyseizedbytheRussian.Afterawhile,however,sheweariedevenoftheGoldenCity—itwasnotremoteenoughfromWesternideas,nordiditofferthatsolitaryandindependentthronewhichherambitiousandrestlessspiritcoveted.Insuchcircumstancesmanywouldhaveappealedtothesympathyofthepublic,butMrs.TheJungfrauhadbeenindicatedasthegoalofourenterprise,andtheirapprehensiveglanceswereturnedtowardsthatmountain,whichroseonourleft,shroudedindensefogs.Theironlyweaponsareknivesandbolas,thelatterofwhichtheythrowwithasurprisingaccuracyofaim.Ithrewmyself,exhausted,butenchanted,onthebedofsnowwhichhadbeenpreparedforme.Godhasgivenmetheextraordinaryfacultyofseeingintofuturity;foraclearjudgmentbecomesmatteroffact.Thenceforth,andthroughoutthejourney,MadamedeBourboulonadoptedamasculinecostume—thatis,avestofgreycloth,withvelvettrimmings,loosepantaloonsofbluestuff,spurredboots,andatneedaMongoliancloakwithadoublehoodoffurs.Formoredistantplacescoachesareused,muchresemblingaboxhunghighuponfourwheels;allthepartsareverystrong,andleatherncurtainsoverthewindowslargelytaketheplaceofglass,thepresenceofwhichisundesirableinabreak-downorrollover.[Pg454]Theinteriorisprovidedwithstrapstobeclungtobytheunhappypassengersasthevehiclepursuesitsbumpingway."Orphanschools,institutes,reformatories,cabs,museums,hospitals,prisons—allattractedtheattentionofthetwotravellers,whoaremuchtobecommendedfortheirscrupulousattentiontoaccuracy.Herliterarypowerswerealmostprematurelydeveloped,likethoseofCharlotteBronté,andshewroteversestotheMoonateightyearsold.Armedonlywiththelatterweapon,theywereoftenknown,duringtheirlongandheroicstruggleforindependence,toleaptheirhorsesovertheMuscovitebayonets,stabthesoldiers,andbreakupandputtoflighttheirserriedbattalions.Whenashadowfallsitisdefinedasboldlyasoncanvas;nogenerousmistsoftensorconcealsit;everythingisshownasfranklyasinamirror.encouraged,itistobefeared,asuicidalmania.[Pg399]WehavehintedthatMrs.Neithersufferingofmindorbody,however,wasallowedtointerferewithherliterarywork."RaggedTartars,withtheirlegsbare,driveonwardherdsofcattle,withoutthoughtofpassers-by;whileTibetansdisplaytheirsumptuousgarb,theirbluecapswithredtop-knots,andtheirloose-lowinghair.Adulldarkred,likethatoftheleesofwine,seemsthenormalcolourofthesurginglava,whichwascovered,however,withathingreyscum—thisscum,orfroth,beingeverymomentandeverywherebrokenbyeddiesandjetsandwhirlpoolsofredandyellowfire,andoccasionallythrownbackoneithersidebytheforceandrushofswiftgolden-tintedrivers.Sheandherhusband,whohadbeenappointedtoanofficialpositionofimportanceinNatal,arrivedatCapeTowninOctober,1875,and,afterabriefrest,steamedalongthecoasttothelittleportofEastLondon."Adullwhiteline,"shesays,"scarcelyperceptiblethroughthegloom,announcedthepresenceofthegreatriver.ThePeaktoweredaboveher,twothousandfeetofsolidrock,withsmoothgranitesides,affordingscarcelyafoothold,andpatchesofre-frozensnow,presentingnoordinaryobstacletotheadvance.Theirkeepers,clothedinsheepskins,andcarrying,insteadofthetraditional[Pg87]crook,longgunsslungacrosstheirshoulders,withtwoorthreepowderandballcasesattheirwaists,seemedinstrangecontrasttothepastoralsentimentofthelandscape.Whoisitthatrealizeshisownideal?Sogreatlytoherlikingwasherreceptionthatshewouldhaveremainedforalengthenedperiodamongthisfriendlypeople,hadshenotfeltboundtoprosecuteherjourneytothesouthward.MadamedeHell'saccountoftheKalmuksis,onthewhole,veryfavourable,whileitshowshowcloselyshestudiedtheirmannersandcustoms,andthehabitsoftheirdailylife.II."GodismyFriend—thatisenough;and,ifIamtoseenohappinessinthisworld,myshareofit,Itrust,willbegreaterinthenext,ifIamfirmintheexecutionofthoseprincipleswhichHehasinspiredmewith."[26]Inreferencetoherinveterateloveofsmoking,herphysiciansays,"Muchhasbeenwritteninproseandverseontheadvantagesandmischiefofsmokingtobacco....Shealsoproducedsomeworksofnoinconsiderablemerit.Theywerereceivedwithgreatenthusiasm—flagsflyingandgunsfiring.TheyachtSunbeaminwhichLady(shewasthensimplyMrs.)Brasseyaccomplishedhervoyageroundtheworldwasascrewthree-mastedschooner,of530tons,withenginesofthirty-fivehorse-power,andaspeedof10to13knotsanhour.Itwasdesirablethatitsnew-bornactivityshouldbeguidedbyanintelligentapprehensionofthecardinaltruthsbywhichreformisdifferentiatedfromrevolution;andtocontributetothisresultbecameHarrietMartineau'spurpose.Here,inDecember,1856,shepublishedherromanceof"Hersha,"—astorywithapurpose—itsaimbeingthe[Pg146]reformoftheSwedishlawsaffectingwomen.Thattheypossesseventherudestformofreligiousbelief,orperformanyreligiousceremonies,hasneveryetbeenascertained.OfThiersandMignetsheadmitsthemerits[Pg395]ashistorians,butcharacterizestheirphilosophyasnarrowandshabby.Thusequipped,[Pg230]shestartedoffwithherguide,andinthefirstsixmileswadedthroughabouttwo-and-thirtybrooks.Fromherbook,therefore,wecanoffernoquotations.ThosewearingagreenturbanspringfromthestockofMohammed,orelsehaveperformedthepilgrimagetoMeccaandlearnedtheKoranbyheart,whichraisesthemtotherankofholymen.Herpillow-casewasofTurkishsilk,andunderitwasanothercoveredwithcolouredcotton.TherewereseveralquotationsfromVictorHugo,andarequestthattheirnamesandthemanneroftheirdeathmightbepublishedinthenewspapers.Ouradventurouslady—nowinhersixtiethyear—madeanexcursion,ofcourse,toMontOrgueil,whichcommandsaveryfineviewoftheislandscenery.Foraspaceofabouttwofeetthestalkisbare;thenalongtheremainingsixfeetaregimentofshortswords,graduatedfromtwofeettoeighteeninchesinlength,aresetclosetogetheroneachsideofthemid-rib.1.E.5.Donotcopy,display,perform,distributeorredistributethiselectronicwork,oranypartofthiselectronicwork,withoutprominentlydisplayingthesentencesetforthinparagraph1.E.1withactivelinksorimmediateaccesstothefulltermsoftheProjectGutenberg-tmLicense.Nowandthenhehasaparoxysmoflunacy,butherecovershimselfquickly,andneverdreamsofputtinganendtohisexistence.Theairresoundswiththehumofinsect-life;throughthebrightgreenleavesofthebananaskimthesparklinghumming-birds,andgorgeousbutterfliesofenormoussizefloat,glowingwitheverycolouroftherainbow,ontheflower-scentedbreezes.TheretheyoungFrederikalearnedtotakeadeepinterestinthegreatpoliticaleventswhichwerethenconvulsingEurope—inthegreatuprisingofthenationsagainsttheselfishtyrannyofNapoleon.Thetarantaswerehauledupontheirdecks,andafteranightofperil,whenasuddenhurricaneputtothetesttheirsolidityandstayingqualities,theyeffectedthetransitofthelakeinsafety.MadamedeBourboulonthusdescribesthehospitablereceptiongiventothetravellers:—"Weknockedatthedoorofatolerablyspacioushouse,situatedneartheentrancetothevillage:itwasanelementaryschool;wecouldhearthenasaldroneofthe[Pg281]childrenrepeatingtheirlessons.Theexceedingsolitarinessofherdwellingexposedhertofrequentattacksbynight,andhenceabraceofpistolsalwayshungattheheadofherbed.Stillacrosstheboundlesssea-likeprairiestrucktheindefatigabletraveller,untilshecametoasortoftripartitevalley,withamajesticcrookedcañon,2,000feetdeep,andwateredbyaroaringstream,whereinarudelog-cabinsheabodeforseveraldays.Thenarrativeofheradventureswaspublishedin1856,underthetitleof"MySecondJourneyRoundtheWorld."CAPEOFGOODHOPE.Manyvoyagersagreeinassertingthattheyalsodealinthesamehideousfashionwiththeiroldmen,who,whentheyceasetobeofanyservicetothetribe,aredeemedunworthyoflongerlife;thesonsthemselvesbecometheexecutionersoftheirfathers,coollyfasteningthemtoatreeandhackingthemtopieces,withoutshowingtheslightestemotionatthespectacleoftheiragony.Royaltypaymentsmustbepaidwithin60daysfollowingeachdateonwhichyouprepare(orarelegallyrequiredtoprepare)yourperiodictaxreturns.Turningtowardsthesouth,thebrown,grey,andyellowrocksroseperpendicularly,thesunshinesofteningthemintoadeliciousharmonyofcolour;andsogreatwasthewidthofthevalley,thatawaterfallontheoppositeclifflooked,fromwherewestood,likeasilverthreadagainstitsside."Unfortunately,everyvirtuewhichiscontentwithappearancesissubjecttosuddenchanges."Somemistressesarealwaysattheirservants'heels,bywhichnothingisgained.GeneralTermsofUseandRedistributingProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks1.A.ByreadingorusinganypartofthisProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicwork,youindicatethatyouhaveread,understand,agreetoandacceptallthetermsofthislicenseandintellectualproperty(trademark/copyright)agreement.Theylearned,perhaps,thattheorderandfreedomofWesterncivilizationareinfinitelymorevaluablethanthepicturesquenessofOrientalsociety.In1828shepublishedatStockholmher"SketchesofEvery-dayLife"(TeckningarurHvardags-lifort),including,"AxelandAnna,""TheTwins,"andotherstories.Alltraceofman'sexistence—alltraceofhumanlabour—isburiedbeneaththegreatcoldwhitebillows,whichlieheapedupononeanother,likebreakersonastormycoast.HartwastheoriginatoroftheProjectGutenberg-tmconceptofalibraryofelectronicworksthatcouldbefreelysharedwithanyone.WemayforgivetheKhansthestrangedevicesontheirwallsinconsiderationofthesilveryfalloftheshiningfountainandtheadjoininggardenwithitswealthofbloom."Thehallofthedivanisofregalmagnificence;themouldingsoftheceiling,inparticular,areofexquisitedelicacy.ThereisacertainamountoffreshnessinthefollowingbriefsketchofAthens[36]:—"WedrovefirsttotheTempleofTheseus,themostperfectlypreservedtempleoftheancientworld.Secretly,therefore,[Pg192]theythreweverypossibleobstacleinthewayofheradvance;butherwealth,highposition,andunfailingenergy,prevailedoverall;andafteradelayofsomeweeksshesucceededincompletingherpreparations.Soonthetravellersbecameawareofthefactthatthepathwassprinkledwithspotsofblood.Shesaidthatthecharmbywhichthefaceofanabsentpersonisthrownuponamirrorlaywithinthereachofthehumblestmagicians,butthatthepracticeofsuchartswasunholyaswellasvulgar.Butwemustrestsatisfiedwithonemorepicture,andthisshallbeaviewoftheTahitianmarket-placeatPapeete:—"Passingbyroadswhicharecalledstreets,butarerathershadybowersofyellowhibiscusandbread-fruittrees,Ienteredthecoveredmarket-place,wherewasassembledasgayathrongasyoucouldwishtosee,manyofthemdressedinflowingrobesoftheverybrightestcolours;forthepeoplehereassembledarechieflylepeuple,whosedaysofceremonialmourningfortheirgoodoldqueenaredrawingtoaclose;sothelongtressesofglossyblackhair,hithertosocarefullyhiddenwithintheirjauntylittlesailor-hats,are[Pg450]nowagainsufferedtohangatfulllengthintwosilkyplaits,andhairandhatsarewreathedwithbrightfragrantflowersofdoubleCapejessamine,orangeblossom,scarlethibiscus,oroleander.Theyseekeithertopowderoneanotherortomakeapresent.1.F.1.F.1.ProjectGutenbergvolunteersandemployeesexpendconsiderableefforttoidentify,docopyrightresearchon,transcribeandproofreadpublicdomainworksincreatingtheProjectGutenberg-tmcollection.ThisisherportraitofthelateCardinalAntonelli:—"AntonellihasastronglymarkedcountenanceofthetrueItaliancharacter;handsomedarkeyes,withapenetrativeglance,gloomyorbrightaccordingtothesentimentwhichtheyexpress;dangerouseyes,itseemstome,theywouldbetothoseonwhomtheirglancewasdirectedinlove.Behindthemwasdrawnupadetachmentofsoldiers.Itsbusinessofficeislocatedat809North1500West,SaltLakeCity,UT84116,(801)596-1887,emailbusiness@pglaf.org.Garibaldihassalutedashissisterthisardentchampionoftherightsofnationalities,who,tothisday,hascontinuedherphilanthropicexertions.ButassoonasweregainedtheEiger,wesweptforwardasrapidlyastheavalanchewhichknowsnoobstacles,asthetorrentwhichcarvesoutitsownchannel,asthebirdwhichonmightypinionscleavesspace.Therewasinitacertainsquareness,butatthesametimerefinement.[Pg164]Thecomplexionwasfreshanddelicate,theforeheadmagnificent,open,withamplespaceforbothbroadandelevatedideas;clear,lively,andpenetratingwastheglanceofthelightblueeye;thenoseandmouth,aswellastheshapeoftheface,notunlikethoseofthefirstNapoleon,havingthesamedelicacyandyetfirmnessofoutline.Whenhisvisitorsbadehimfarewell,hestrenuouslyadvisedthemnottoproceedanyfurthersouth.Ofherlightnessandfirmnessoftouchwecangivebutonespecimen,asketchofaKaffirbride:[Pg457]—"Shewasexceedinglysmart,andhadoneoftheprettiestfacesimaginable.Thereisnoaffectationofhigh-wroughtadventureorheroicenterpriseaboutit.Thelatteremptiedoutthecontentsofthevesselandthrewsomeattheheadofhisimmodestwife,amidsttheshoutsandlaughteroftheshepherds."ThissceneremindedMadamedeBourboulonoftheBibleandtheageofthepatriarchs.Itssummitisclovenintotwopeaks;andinthehollowbetween,anancienttraditionaffirmsthatNoah'sarkrestedonthesubsidenceoftheGreatFlood.Itissatisfactorytoknow,however,thatitspurposewasattained.OfhighervalueisLadyDuffusHardy's"TourinAmerica,"andstillhighervalueLadyAnneBlunt's"PilgrimagetoNijd."Mrs.ThegreatBerlinphilosopherandtheyoungWallachianwriterlivedforsometimeinanintellectualconfraternity,which,nodoubt,istothisdayoneofthemostvaluablesouvenirsofthebrilliantauthorof"LaVieMonastiquedansl'EgliseOrientale."Inreferencetothissubject,wetakeleavetoquoteapassagefromthegracefulpenofM.Theyweretootameandspiritlessforherardentnature,andsheinclinedtowardsthebolderandmorerobustpastimesofherbrothers.Whatmonument,asksMissBremer,couldhavebeenmorebeautifulforthosebravemenwhosedusthasbeenmingledwiththeearth?[16]AfterthousandsofyearstheirheroiccontentionforlibertyhadpreparedfreedomandpeaceforGreece.Graduallyherenthusiasmaspatriotandwarriordeclined,andgavewaytonewandequallystrongemotions.Thejuiceisstrainedsuccessivelyintosixpans,ofwhichthefirstisexposedtothegreatestheat,theforceofthefirebeingdiminishedgraduallyundereachoftheothers."Nowhere,"shesays,"havetheruggedandthetender,thewildandthesoft,beenblendedintosuchexquisiteunionasatRio;anditisthisqualityofunrivalledcontraststhat,tomymind,givestothatsceneryitscharmofunsurpassedloveliness.ThereareafewthingsthatyoucandowithmostProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworksevenwithoutcomplyingwiththefulltermsofthisagreement.ForthelasttwodaysIhavereallyknownwhatitistofeelabsolutelywellatsea,evenwhenitisveryrough,andhavebeenabletoeatmymealsincomfort,andeventoreadandwrite,withoutfeelingthatmyheadbelongedtosomebodyelse."[37][Pg379]LADYMORGANANDOTHERS.Howeverunmovedwemaybebytheordinarysightsand[Pg433]soundswhichfillupthelandscapes,wearemostofushushedandbreathlessamongthemountains,mutelyacknowledgingthemanifestationsofaPresenceandaPowerwhicharenotoftheearth—earthy.Addtothisthatthevegetationhasacharmofitsown—thefeatherypalmandthebread-fruittreelendingtoitaquitedistinctivecharacter.AfterhavingstudiedtheantiquitiesofAthens,undertakensundryscientificandarchæologicalexcursionsintoAttica,andenjoyedadelightfulintercourseatAthenswithkindredspirits—suchasFrederikaBremer—shetraversedthenomarchies,orprovinces,ofthekingdomofGreece,withtheviewofobtaininganexactandcomprehensiveaccountofthemoralandmaterialconditionoftheruralpopulation.NearlyalltheindividualworksinthecollectionareinthepublicdomainintheUnitedStates.[Pg30]"IsaidtoPierre,afterglancingatthispatheticinscription,'ThesoulofthisyoungmanrestsinpeaceinthebosomoftheEverlasting.ShegotholdoftheworksofDugaldStewart,Hartley,andPriestley;plungedboldlyintothemazeofmetaphysics,andgrappledunhesitatinglywiththemysterioussubjectsoffore-knowledgeandfree-will.TrollopeattackingVictorHugoisoneofthoserebellionsonthepartoftheinfinitelylittleagainsttheinfinitelygreatwhichmovethelaughterofgodsandmen.Nothingcanbemoreawfulthanthesnowywastestheywerecompelledtotraverse,sweptandravagedastheywerebyfuriousblasts.Hehasleftusagraphicrecordoftheinterview.IntheafternoontheyrambledtothevillageofViana—oldMarathon—picturesquelysituatedatthefootofPentelicus.Letthypeopleberesponsibleforwhattheydo;holdthemstrictlytoeverytieofheartandhonour;givethemrichlythatwhichcomesbacktothem.Thoughits[Pg280]demeanourtowardsherwaspeaceableandrespectful,shefoundthetimeverylong,anditwaswithintensesatisfactionsherejoinedthecavalcade,themembersofwhichhadbeguntofeelalarmedatherabsence.Nottheslightestshadowofsadnessobscuredtheirgaiety,whichwasprolonged,almostnoisy,andapparentlygenuine.LyingdeepamongtheBaikalmountains,anoffshootoftheAltai,itpresentssomevividlycolouredandverystrikingscenery.Therefore,wearecompelledtoindicateasadefect—which,ifnotverygreat,mightaswellhavebeenavoided—acertainaffectationandcoquetryofstyle,displayingthesolicitudeoftheartistratherthanthefranksimplicityofthestory-teller.Acoupleofhorsementurningthecorneroftheroad,ourtravellershurriedtomeetthem,andhavingheardtheirtale,which,indeed,theirwoundstoldeloquentlyenough,theyleapedfromtheirhorses,andenteredthewoodinpursuit.Theresultwasanimmediateseparation.ItistruethatshesubmittedtoprivationswhichtheEnglishtouristwoulddeeminsupportable;sheembarkedinsailingshipsbecausetheywerecheaperthansteamers;resortedtothird-classrailwaycarriages;avoidedexpensivehotels;livedalwayswiththe"masses"andonplainestfare;anddispensedwiththeservicesofdragomanorinterpreter.Sherepresentsherheroineassmallofstature,withaplainface,whichisyetnotwithoutsomecharmofexpression,asawomanofexcessivelysimpletastes,astudent,andanartist.Astothegoverning-class,theirvicesarethenaturalresultofthecorruptionoftheharems,anduntilthesearereformed,itisuselesstoexpectanyelevationofthelowmoralstandardwhichnowunfortunatelyprevailsamongthepashas.PierrewasencouragedtodilateuponthedangerswhichIshouldincuramongtheglaciers.SheobtainedentranceevenintoaBuddhisttemple—thatofHonan,reputedtobeoneofthefinestinChina.Theprospectfromtheterrace,embracingabird's-eyeviewofthelabyrinthofbuildings,gardens,andotherenclosures,isverylovely.Itis,indeed,withtoolightatouchthatsheglidesbythemoreregrettabledefectsoftheAmericancharacter,sofascinated,sodazzledisshebythebrilliantmirageofindependence—independenceofthoughtandaction,oftenverginguponorpassingintolicence—whichtheUnitedStatespresentedtoher.Itsdelicateandjudiciousreflections,anditspleasingsketches,cannotbereadwithoutatouchofsympathy.Youwillneverlearnofme,becauseyoucannotcomprehendmyideas,andthereforeitisofnouseteachingyou.Aboveandaroundusweseeonlytheskyandthesea,buttheyarecalmandbeautiful."TheHolyLandcomesinsight,andafloodofemotionsrushesuponourpoet'ssoul.TheLazaristpriestsgaveourtravellersaheartywelcome;andafteragoodnight'srest,thecaravanquittedSuan-hou-pu,alargetown,remarkableforthenumberofChineseMussulmanswhoinhabitit.Throughthecareandconscientiousnessofherinstructor,Mons.Onthequestionofslavery,forexample,she,theardentchampionoftheemancipationofhumanity,whostartedwiththefirmresolutiontolaunchherheaviestthunderboltsattheslave-owners,wasledtogiveforthanuncertainsound.deHellsettoworkonthenecessaryplans."FromtheTurkishprisonwepassedthroughanarrowdirtystreet,withruinedhousesandwastedgardensoneitherside,outintotheopencountryagain,whenasharpcanterovertheplainandthroughasmallvillagebroughtustotheplacewherethenewGovernmentHouseisincourseoferection.Onehope,however,remained:thattheseguidesthemselveswoulddissuademefrommyenterprise.Theplainsarefrom4,000to6,000feethigh,andsomeofthesettled'parks,'ormountainvalleys,arefrom8,000to10,000.Howmarvelloustheeffectsofcolour,whenthis[Pg193]romanticsceneisfloodedintheglowingsunshine.Thesanctuary[Pg238]enshriningitisasmallchamberorcell,lessthantwentyfeetinbreadth.Onedayhewenttoseehiswivesandchildren,whoresidedatsomedistance;onhisreturn,MadamedeBourboulonputsomequestionstohimrespectinghisfamily.TheplaguewasthendealingheavilywiththeunfortunateMussulmanpopulations,butitdidnotterrifyourenthusiastictravellers;asiftheyboreacharmedlife,theywenttoandfro,seeingwhateverwasfineormemorable,andyetallunabletosatisfythatthirstforbeautywhichthebeautifularoundthemhadexcited.Whennodahabuyahappearedmuchsurprisewasfelt,andmenweresenttolookoutforit,butinvain.ThepoorJewesseswereobligedtodeclinejoiningus,forithappenedtobeSaturday,andtheymustnotsmokeontheirSabbath.Theappearanceofhundredsofthesecreatures,eacheighteenincheslong,sittinglikedogsbegging,withtheirpawsdownandallturnedsunwards,ismostgrotesque."AtGreeleyMissBirdenteredColorado,whichshedescribes,aswehaveseen,insuchamannerastosuggestthatitrivalsDr.Richardson'simaginary[Pg421]"Hygeia"inallessentialparticulars.Wetraversedthewalnut-treeavenuesofInterlachenanditssmilinggardens.ItwasSundaywhenourtravellersarrived,andthewholepopulationwereholidaymakingonthegreenshoreorgreenerheights.Herdresswassuperb—afullskirtandbodiceofgeranium-colouredbrocade,embossedwithgoldflowersandleaves;andherfrillandruffleswereofgeranium-colouredgauze.Fromourhalting-placeIcanperceivetheramificationsoftheGreatWall,stretchingnorthwardofthetowntowardsthecrestofthemountains.GeneralInformationAboutProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks."Iwouldfainhaveprolongedmyvisitinthehopeofseeingherdaughters,butthefearofappearingintrusive[Pg112]promptedmetotakemyleave.Trollope'sprejudicessometimesprevailoverhersenseofjusticeisapparentintheridiculeshelavishesupontherigidobservanceoftheSabbathby[Pg387]theAmericanpeople.SpecialreverenceseemstobeaccordedtoKwanfootse,ademi-godofwar,andtothefour-and-twentygodsofmercy.Itseemedtoshutupthevalley.PierreJaunandPierreBohren,seeingmesoresolved,seizedourflag,setoutinadvance,andneverrestedtilltheyhadplanteditontheloftiestsummitoftheMönch,beforetherestofuscouldgetup.Thepathwaseverywherenarrowandsometimessteep;andfrequentlythehorsemanhadalmosttocreepundertheclosethickcropofinterlacingboughs.In1838theysetoutforOdessa,whereMonsieurdeHellhopedtoobtainapositionworthyofhistalents.Shesaysofherselfthat"adarkcloudcameoverthesplendourofheryouthfuldreams;likeearlyeveningitcameoverthepathoftheyoungpilgrimoflife,andearnestly,butinvain,sheendeavouredtoescapeit.ThebeautyofthislagoonwouldneedaRuskin'spentoreproduceitinallitsexquisiteandmanifoldcolouring.InmyyouthIhadbeenatolerablemusician,but,alas,thatwaslongago.FromTien-tsintoPekinthedistanceisaboutthirtyleagues.Whenshedivertsherthoughts,shesays,fromthedethronedandbanishedkingtohimwhomshesawbeforeher,walkingwithoutguardsandwithanassuredstep,shecouldnotbutrecallthevicissitudeshehadexperienced,andtheconclusionforceditselfuponherthatthisearthandallitsinhabitantswerebutthetoysofchildren,whichchangetheirnameanddestinationaccordingtothemoment'swhim.Themanwho,insuchadreadandsolemnmomentcanstillbelievethereisnoGod,mustindeedbeirretrievablystruckwithmentalblindness.Compliancerequirementsarenotuniformandittakesaconsiderableeffort,muchpaperworkandmanyfeestomeetandkeepupwiththeserequirements.Theylookratherlikepoplin,butarereallymadeentirelyofsilk,three-quartersofayardinwidth,andcostingaboutthreeshillingsayard,thepiecebeingactuallyreckonedinpiastresforpriceandpiesformeasurement.duS."Thefinesttobaccothecountrycouldproduce,andthecleanestpipes(forshehadanewonealmostasoftenasafopputsonnewgloves),couldhardlysatisfyherfastidiousness;andIhaveknownherfootmangetasmanyscoldingsasthereweredaysintheweekonthatscore."Ithadtakenuslongtocrosstheregionofspringsandtorrents;notsolongtotraversethatinwhichthefissuresoftheglacierwerehiddenunderthesnow;andnowatlastwetrodtheeternalandspotlessshroudofthefrozendesert.Thechildrenareallowedtorunaboutnakedtilltheyarefiveorsixyearsold,andarethendressedliketheirelders.Thedangerwasurgentandreal.Nodoubt,shetalkedverywell;butlikeallgreattalkers,shesometimestalkedveryill.Thisapparentlyboundlessdesert,notwithstandingitslackoftreesandshrubsandflowers,anditsmonotonousuniformity,isnotwithoutacertaincharm,asmanytravellershaveacknowledged."Asforthelady'sfaithinastrologyandmagicscience,youarenotforamomenttosupposethatthisimpliedanyaberrationofintellect.Thefatiguesheenduredbroughtonthesleepofexhaustion,whichalmostresemblescatalepsy.ThistraffichadexcitedsuchpassionsofrevengeandhatredinthebreastsoftheriverinetribesoftheNile,thatthepassageoftheriverhadbecomeverydangerous,[Pg195]andthelandjourneyalmostimpossible.Dr.Barthandothertravellersspeakinwarmtermsofthisunfortunatetribe,whohavesufferedscarcelylessfromEuropeansthanfromArabs.Bread,rice,biscuit,coffee,tea,wine,liqueurs,allkindsofclothing,preservedmeatsandvegetables,werecarefullypackedupandstowedawayinthesecarts,whichweresentforward,threedaysinadvance,toKalgan,afrontiertownofMongolia.Nonewereinclinedtoregardmywordsasdictatedbyanintimateconviction.Thisgift,whichispresentedbyeverystranger,iscalled"Monosina."TheQueenthenaskedM.ButinashorttimeshewithdrewfromEuropeanTurkey,[Pg50]andatOsmandjik,nearSinope,laidthefoundationsofamodelfarm."Amysterioustwilightpartlyilluminedtheextensivecavern,itsfarthestrecesses,however,remainingindeepshadow.BetweentheJebelHunayaandthepointwheretheBahr-el-GhazalflowsintotheWhiteNile,thesceneryisofaveryunattractivecharacter,andtheriver-banks[Pg197]areparchedandunfruitful.Astheroadtraversedalow-lyingandmalariouscountry,theconsequencesofsuchadelaywereasseriousastheywereprobablymeanttobe.IntheTempleofMercy,MadamePfeiffermetwithanunpleasantadventure.ThencesheproceededtoCalcutta,thecityofpalaces;but,ofcourse,sheaddsnothingtotheinformationfurnishedbyaswarmoftravellers.Onherrightstoodherson,PrinceRakoto;onherleft,heradoptedson,PrinceRamboasalama.Ev.TombadansungouffreDelaMerdeGlace.Shefollowedherfirstbook,thesuccessofwhichwasimmediateandverygreat,byanovelentitled"TheRefugeeinAmerica,"inwhichtheplotisill-constructed,andthecharactersarecrudelydrawn,butthewriter'scaustichumourlendsanimationtothepage.Onthebroadbrightbosomofthestreamspreadthelargeleavesandwhiteflowersofcolossallilies,amongwhichthecrocodileandhippopotamuspursuetheirunwieldypastime.ToourgrandmothersaFrenchor[Pg438]Italiantourwasaneventofnoveltyandimportance;butnousavonschangétoutcela.Heprotestedstronglyagainstasentence[Pg266]ofdeath.ThismartialriderwasComancheBill,whomgossipdescribedasoneofthemostnotoriousdesperadoesoftheRockyMountains,andthegreatestIndian"exterminator"onthefrontier."Theystickanumberofdiamondpinsandotherpreciousstonesinthehandkerchiefsofprintedcottonwhichtheytwistaroundtheirhead."OnMondaytheCorsowas,nevertheless,moreanimatedthanonSaturday,andthewarfareofcomfitsandflowerswascarriedonverygaily.Ontheotherside,thesteppes,wheretheKirghizandKalmuksencamp,extendedasfarastheeyecouldreach,tilllimitedbyahorizonassmoothanduniformasthatoftheocean.Icouldnothaveheldoutmuchlonger;thewateronthebridgewasoverourankles.AsIrodeon,aboutfourmilesfromthecabin,ahumanfigure,lookinggiganticlikethespectreoftheBrocken,withlonghairwhiteassnow,appearedclosetome,andatthesamemomenttherewastheflashofapistolclosetomyear,andIrecognized'MountainJim,'frozenfromheadtofoot,lookingacenturyoldwithhissnowyhair.In1850shepublishedinaFrenchjournal,theNational,hermemorialsofVeile;andasarelieftothestirandunrestofpolitics,shewrote,inthefollowingyear,her"Notionsd'Histoireàl'usagedesEnfants"(1851).Hissaddlewaselaboratelyornamented.[Pg434]Whatchieflydrewattentioninhisequipmentwasthenumberofweaponshungabouthim;hewasasmallarsenalinhimself!Tworevolversandaknifewerethrustintohisbelt,andacrosshisbackwasslungacarbine;inaddition,hehadariflerestingonhissaddle,andapairofpistolsintheholsters.ThefutureoftheyoungcouplerestedwhollyonaletterofrecommendationtoGeneralPotier,bywhomtheywerewarmlywelcomed.Thelabourerisworthyofhishire.ShewasbornatArtois,in1819.Somepreferasortofslatygrey,ofwhichagreatquantityismade,butIthinkitisveryugly."Inthiseasy,gossipingmannerLadyBrasseyambleson,nottellingoneanythingthatisparticularlynew,butrecordingwhatreallymethereyeinthemostunpretendingfashion.Towardsfouro'clockintheafternoonMadamePfeifferwasconveyedtothepalace,overthedoorofwhichagreatgildedeagleexpandsitswings.Thelatterwereattiredinlongwhitesimboos;theireyeswerefixeduponuswithasombreandferociousglare,andforawhilethesilenceofdeathprevailed.Trolloperecordsasanhistoricalandnoteworthyphrase,muchinvoguein1835,"YoungFrance,"anddescribesitasoneofthosecabalisticformulæwhichassumetogiveexpressiontoagrand,terrible,sublime,andvolcanicidea.Mr.BinghamandMr.Freerweresmoking,half-waybetweenthequarter-deckandtheafter-companion,whereCaptainBrown,Dr.Potter,Muriel,andIwerestanding.ByslowstagesshereturnedtoEngland,whereshesettleddownnearNewcastle-upon-Tyne,tobeunderthecareofherbrother-in-law."Ihavehearditsaidthatthiscapisamaiden'sdower.Havingwrappedmyselfinagreatplaid,Itookmyseatinthesedan-chairandstarted,accompaniedbyfourguides,fourporters,andacrowdofpeasants,amongwhomwasaTyrolean.Theninalowweakvoicesheutteredsomebrokensentences,andfrequentlyrepeatedthewords,"Light,eternallight!"Claspinghernurse'shandsinherown,sheexclaimed,"Ah,mychild,letusspeakofChrist'slove,—thebest,thehighestlove!"[Pg148]Atthreeo'clockonthefollowingmorning,shepeacefullydrewherlastbreath.[10]FromthisbriefsketchofthelifeofthegreatSwedishnovelist,weturntoaconsiderationofherworkasatraveller.Nosoonerdoeshesetfootinthejungle,than,asifwarnedbysomesecrettelegraphicagency,allitsinmatestaketoflight.Copyrightlawsinmostcountriesareinaconstantstateofchange.ButtheattentionofMissBremerwasnotwhollygiven[Pg173]tothehallowedscenesbywhichshewassurrounded.Johnwishestobeagentleman;Jonathandoesnottroublehimselfaboutappearances—hehassomuchtodo,thatitmatterslittletohimifherushesaboutwithaholeattheelboworatailofhiscoattornoff,solongasheadvances.AtfirstMissTinnéeasilypurchasedseveral,butassoonasthenativesdiscoveredthatsheslaughteredthemforprovision,theyrefusedtosell.[Pg289]AtZayau-Tologoï,theChinesedriverswerereplacedbyMongolianpostillions,andtheChinesemandarinsgaveuptheresponsibilityofescorttoMongolianofficials.Shehad[Pg118]theconsolation,moreover,ofbeingallowedtoretainbyhersidetheyoungestofherdaughters,andthenceforthsheresignedherselftoalifeofsolitude,keepinghidwithinherbosomthesecretofhersorrow,herregret,and,perhaps,herremorse.Thegrovesexpandedintowoods,andthewoodsintoforests,thedelightedeyegazingwitheverfreshgratificationonthedensenetworkofcreepersandwildvinesthatstretchedfromtreetotree,whilethegreengloomwaseverywherelightedupwithstarryblossoms.ThismisadventuretaughtthemthelessonthatinEasterncountriesitissafertotrusttobrutesthantomen;theboatmenweresummarilydismissed,andtheladiesoncemorejoinedthecaravan.Itwasthisself-will,thiscolossalegotismthatledhertospendsomuchofhertimeinconversation—ifthosecouldbecalledconversationsinwhichoneofthetalkersinsisteduponamonopolyofattention.Whetherthisbesoornot,shewasassuredlyoneofthemostconspicuousandoriginalfiguresofthetime.Butthreeorfourtimesayear,andalwaysunexpectedly,swoopdownuponthemliketheLastJudgment;examineeverycornerandrecess;makeanoiselikethunder,andstrikerightandleftatthefittingmoment—thisclearsthehouseformanyweeks!"Thereisnothingsensationalorromantic,quaintorpicturesque,inthesepassages,wegrantyou.Insidethereefthewhitecoralshore,onwhichthewavesseemedtoolazytobreak,isfringedwithabeltofcocoa-nutpalms,amongstwhich,aswellasonthehillside,thelittlewhitehousesareprettilydotted.Itisthetruthshespeaks;andherinfluenceisallthegreaterbecauseshemakesnoefforttoconvinceorimposeuponherreaders;shewritesgravelyanddeliberately,withoutpassionandwithoutimagination.[Pg61]Afewfactsfromtheprincess'spageswillnotbewithoutinterestforthereader,atatimewhen"theunspeakableTurk"istheobjectofsomuchpublicdiscussion.Afewyearslater,and,alas,artistsandpoetsgiveplacetosoldiers!"Thewholeoftheroyalfamilyarecollectedata[Pg21]summerfête,andwiththemthemostfamousnamesinartandscience,andsomestrangersofdistinction.Itwasnotuntilthefollowingdaythatnewswasobtainedofit,andthenitwasfoundthattheEgyptianboatmenhadatlastlaiddowntheiroarsinsullenindolence,andthatMissTinnéandtheotherladieshadbeencompelledtopassthenightina[Pg190]Nubianvillage.Hepushedhissolicitationswithsomuchenergythat,inthefirstyearofhisweddedlife,hesecuredanappointmentundertheTurkishGovernment.Afterwards,however,hisliberalitywasfoundtoproceedfromanothermotive;hesupposedthathewasdoinghonourtothefavouritedaughteroftheGrandTurk,andinhiszealmeditated[Pg198]proclaiminghertheQueenoftheSoudan.Itwasobviousthat,traversingasshewoulddothedistrictsblightedbythisterribleplague,shewouldseeallitssadresults,andherfearlessexposureofthemwouldnotlongbedelayed.Itiscurioustoreadthisbook,publishedin1836,andtocomparethestateofsocietyinthosedayswiththatwhichnowexists.Itisimpossibleforustofollowinallthisextendedcircuit,andovergroundsorichintraditionandassociation.Thewriterhasevidentlyforgotten,inherover-scrupulousregardfortheartisticandpicturesque,thatnothingissoattractiveassimplicity.Inmanyplacestheinclineissosteepthatzigzagflightsofwoodenstepshavebeeninsertedhereandthereinthefaceofthecliffinordertofacilitatethedescent.Thereshetookupherresidenceonasplendidscale.Acaptainofengineers,M.Iwasabouttoleavemyroom,thewindowsofwhichlookedinanoppositedirection,toseewhatwasthematter,whenMons.Thoughcompletelyknockedup,IsetoutimmediatelyforInterlachen,toreassurethosewhowereawaitingmethere.Lambret,aFrenchadventurer,who[Pg263]atonetimeplayedaprominentpartintheaffairsofMadagascar—addressedashortspeechtotheQueen;afterwhichthevisitorshadtobowthrice,andtorepeatthewords"Esaratsaratombokoe"(Wesaluteyoucordially),theQueenreplying,"Esaratsara"(Wesaluteyou).Whatisyourname?"Lamartine,whohadalreadywondistinctionasapoet,toldher.And,sheadds,withherusualcausticity,thatifoneweretoclassifythepopulationintotwogreatdivisions,itwouldbeimpossibletodefinethemmoreexpressivelythanbythesetwowords.OfMadameIdaPfeifferwethinkitmayjustlybesaidthatshestandsinthefrontranksofthegreattravellers,andthatthescientificresultsofherenterprisewerebothvaluableandinteresting.Thevariousvoicesofthetowncollectedandreverberatedwithinthelimitedspace,arehearddistinctly,especiallyathushofeve,whenthesummonstoprayerfromeveryminaretmingleswiththebleatingofthewearyflocks,andthecriesoftheshepherdsreturningfromtheirpastures.Itisanexactportrait;and"TheNeighbours"isarecordofherthoughtsandahistoryofherheartanditsgenerousimpulses.Shewasthrownintoprison,anditseemedimpossiblethatsheshouldescapewithherlife.Yourhostoverwhelmsyouwhileyousojournbeneathhisroof;butifatyourdepartureyoudonotpayhimtwentytimesthevalueofwhathehasgivenyou,hewillwaituntilyouhavecrossedhisthreshold,andconsequentlydoffedyoursacredtitleofmonzapi,tothrowstonesatyou.Thesamereticenceandsimplicityarevisibleineverypageofthepublishedrecordofherpersonalexperiences.HeimploredtheQueennottoyieldtoherimpulseofanger,andlaidspecialstressonthefactthattheEuropeanPowerswouldassuredlynotallowthemurderofpersonssoconsiderableasweweretopassunpunished.Ourtravellers,however,passedthroughthegaleunhurt.Thereisnodoubtthatattimessheclaimedtobethepossessorofdivinepower;thereisnodoubtthatshewasnotalwaysabelieverinherownclaims.Nature,riotinginhergrandestmood,exclaimedwithvoicesofgrandeur,solitude,sublimity,beauty,andinfinity,'Lord,whatisman,thatThouart[Pg428]mindfulofhim?vonHumboldttoexplaintheinscription,andthegallantoldmangoesstraighttooneoftheyounggirls,excusinghimselffornotattemptingtotranslateitinthepresenceofoneofthegreatestHellenistsofthetime."Thesetwoillustriousmenarebendingoverabasso-relievowithaGreekinscription,whenthekingenters;heisaccompaniedbyagentleman,whohasoneitherarmafairyounggirlinthespringofheryouthandbeauty.Bothwerechamoishunters,renownedfortheirintrepidity."Atlengthwedescendedupontheglacier.InthelanguageofMr.Moore,oneofthefirstobjectsthatmettheeyesofthe[Pg305]distinguishedtravellers,ontheirapproachingthecoastofAttica,wasthenoblepoet,"disportinginhisfavouriteelementundertherocksofColonna."TheywereafterwardsintroducedtoeachotherbyLordSligo,anditwasinthecourseoftheirfirstinterviewatLordSligo'stablethatLadyHester,withthat"livelyeloquence"forwhichshewasremarkable,brisklyassailedtheauthorof"ChildeHarold"forthedepreciatingopinionhewassupposedtoentertainofallfemaleintellect.Meantime,thetempleresoundedwiththe[Pg235]minglingstrainsofthreemusicians,oneofwhomstruckametalball,whileanotherscrapedastringedinstrument,andathirdeducedshrillnotesfromakindofflute.ThesightoftheseCossacks,withmusketsshouldered,pacingupanddownthesmallplatformonthesummitofeacheminence,conveyedtothespectator'smindaknowledgeoftherapidadvancewhichRussiancivilizationhadmadeintothisremoteregion.Shebesoughthimtoreleasetheunhappycreatures,andwhenherefused,purchasedeightofthem,immediatelysettingthematliberty,andsupplyingthemalsowithprovisions.Suddenlythesongsceased,andmytravellingcompanionsutteredthoseexclamations,familiartoAlpinepopulations,whichre-echoedfromrocktorock.Oneday,ourtravellermetanoldwoman,blindandparalytic,whomherhusbandbroughttoherinthehopethattheprincesswouldrestorehersightandpowerofmovement.Notwithstandingthiseasymodeoftravel,hermotherwassofatiguedthat,onarrivingatAbu-Hammed,onthebanksoftheNile,shesolicitedthattheyshouldagaintaketotheriver.Anescortwasthereforenecessary,andtheRussiangovernorselectedforthepostoneofhisbestofficers;ayoungmanfamedforhisskillasahunter,andasthehappyownerofafalconfromwhichhewouldneverseparate.Suchanachievementnecessarilycrownedherwithglory;andwhenshepublishedherplainandunaffectednarrativeof"AWoman'sJourneyRoundtheWorld,"itmetatoncewithamostfavourablereception.Iembraceditandpromisedtobeitsgodmother.deCavourlaughed,halfcynically,asatanexpressioncalledforthbyacertainespritdecorps;butafterwardshediscoursedseriouslyonthedifficultieswhich,particularlyamongstanagriculturalpopulation,stoodinthewayofanequalrightofinheritance.Itisthesamewiththehandsandfeet,which,variegatedwithorange,feartheactionofwaterasinjurioustotheirbeauty.Thewomenweartwotresses,whichisreallythesolevisibledistinctionoftheirsex.Onthisoccasionshegainedtwovictories—oneoverherselfandoneoverhersteed,whoseardentimpatienceshecontrivedtomaster.Someimaginedthatitwasamerewhimwhichwouldbefullysatisfiedbythenoiseitcaused.NexttheyplungedintotheimmensemarshesofBaraba;intoadrearysuccessionoflakes,andpools,andswamps,bloomingwithaluxuriousvegetationandamarvellousprofusionofwildflowers,eachmorebeautifulthantheother,butswarming,unhappily,withaplagueofinsectseagertodrinkthebloodofmanorbeast.Theyconversedtogetherforalongtimeuponthefavouritesubject—theunique,mysteriousthemeofthatextraordinarywoman,orthemodernCirceoftheDesert,whosocompletelyrecalledtomindthefamousfemalemagiciansofantiquity.Thiswasanewreadingoftheoldfalsehood,doingevilthatgoodmaycome.Donotlavishallyourtendernessto-day;rememberthatinmarriagethereisato-morrowandadayafterto-morrow.ThewholescenewasinvestedwithapoeticcharmwhichIvainlyendeavourtoexpress.ShewasintroducedatCourtatanexceptionallyearlyage,andbecameagreatfavouriteoftheQueenofHolland.However,ifyouprovideaccesstoordistributecopiesofaProjectGutenberg-tmworkinaformatotherthan"PlainVanillaASCII"orotherformatusedintheofficialversionpostedontheofficialProjectGutenberg-tmwebsite(www.gutenberg.org),youmust,atnoadditionalcost,feeorexpensetotheuser,provideacopy,ameansofexportingacopy,orameansofobtainingacopyuponrequest,oftheworkinitsoriginal"PlainVanillaASCII"orotherform.They[Pg397]finisheditwithagoodappetite,andwiththeenjoymentnaturaltotheirage.Who[Pg264]wouldeverhavethoughtthatIshouldonedaybesummonedtoperformbeforeaqueenandhercourt,andattheageofsixty,whenIfumbledmoreatrociouslythandochildrenwhohavehadafewmonths'lessons?...Shesaweverythingthroughrose-colouredglasses.Eventuallytheroadleavesthevalley,atapointwhereithasbecomeverynarrow,andtraversesalongsinuousledge,parallelwiththecourseofthetorrent,untilitbeginstoenterthemountains.Themultitudeofchildrenandservants,especiallyofnegresses,whopeopletheharems,andthefootingofequalityonwhichmistressesandattendantslive,arealsoaggravatingcausesofthegeneraluncleanliness.Thosenumerouslights,flittingfrompointtopoint,werelikethewill-o'-the-wispsthatbeguilethebelatedtraveller;andthentheKalmukencampmentswiththeirblackmassesthatseemedtoglideoverthesurfaceofthesteppe,thedarknessofthenight,thespeedwithwhichourtroika(setofthree)carriedusovertheboundlessplain,theshrilltinkleofthehorse-bells,and,aboveall,theknowledgethatwewereinthelandoftheKalmuks,wroughtusuptoastateofnervousexcitementthatmadeusseeeverythinginthehuesoffancy.Ahighwallsurroundsthesacredenclosure.[Pg234]Thevisitorentersfirstalargeoutercourt,andthence,throughahugegateway,passesintotheinner.Oneverypageofherbook,forexample,MadamedeBourboulonrevealsherselfasawomanofsomeculture,ofacheerfultemper,alivelyapprehension,andrefinedmind.Beautifulmeadows,studdedwithclumpsoftrees,andhighlycultivatedfields,spreadouttheirverduretotheleftofthepalace,andformedasuccessionoflandscapes,likepicturesinapanorama.Suchbeingthecase,theygiveuptotheireyebrowsthewholespacebetweenthetemples,andpainttheforeheadwithtwowidearches,which,startingfromtheoriginofthenose,extend,oneoneachside,asfarasthetemple.Theriver-bankslaydeepintheshadowofluxurianttropical[Pg201]forests,intherecessesofwhichtheruinsofancientbuildingsweresometimesvisible.Buttheprincipalobjectisthealtar,whichglitterswithplatesofsilver,andisencrustedabouttheedgeswithpreciousstones.AtlengthDr.HeughlinreachedLakeNû,ontheBahr-el-Ghazal.Asthetravellerspenetratedfartherintothecountry,theycameuponanentirelydifferentpicture;vastplainswidenedawaytothatvaguehorizonwhereearthandheavenseemedtoblendinmist.TheriverFleurioboundsalongthemiddleofthevalley,andmakesitsfieldsgreen;itmurmursmeanderinglyalongoveradeepbedofmarbleblocksandstones,itsbanksgarlandedwithfine-leaved,[Pg182]white-floweringsavinandoleanders;besidesbeingovershadowedinmanyplacesbythemostbeautifulplanetreesstretchingouttheirhighbranchestoeachotheracrossthelittlestream,whichinitscalmbutfreshcareer,anditsromanticmeanderings,isalivingimageofabeautifulquietlife."NottheleastinterestingofMissBremer'smanypilgrimageswastheoneshemadetothatplainofMarathon,wherethegeniusofMiltiadesbeatbackthelegionsofPersiaunderDatis—thesceneofthefirstgreatvictoryoftheWestovertheEast.Asfortheinterior,itisapageoutofthe"ArabianNights."InthefirsthallisthecelebratedFountainofTears,towhichPushkinhasdedicatedabeautifullyric.Toeverybenevolentimpulseherheartresponded,likeanÆolianharptothetouchofthelightestbreeze;andinthemidstofherenjoymentofthepicturesquefeaturesofherenterprise,sheceasednottosufferseverelyatthesightofthewretchedconditionofthepoornegroeswhofellvictimstothenecessitiesofanefarioustraffic.TwodaysafterwardsIwasseizedwithafever,whichatfirstthedoctorsthoughtwouldprovemortal."Herstrongconstitutioncarriedherthroughit.TheSwedishnovelistandhercompanionsrestedanddinedonthegreenswardataspotwhereanumberofwhitemarbleslabsindicatedthattheancientmonumentshadstoodthere.ButattheexplanationsmadeingoodChinesebyMr.Wade,thesurlyoldfellow,undergoingasuddenmetamorphosis,benthisleanspineintwo,andusheredme,withmanyforcedobeisances,intohiswives'room.Igallopedon,hopingtogetthroughit,unabletoseeayardbeforeme;butitthickened,andIwasobligedtosubsideintoajog-trot.Accordingtorule,insteppingacrossthethresholdthevisitorputherrightfootforemost;andthisformulashealsoobservedonentering,throughasecondgateway,thespaciouscourtyardinfrontofthepalace.Shewasafterwardsplacedinaboarding-schoolatSaint-Maudé,[Pg67]butherfather'sdeathrestoredhertohersister'sguardianshipatSaint-Etienne.Shealwaysshowedareluctance,anairofunwillingness,toretire;notanunusualcharacteristicinpersonsofherpeculiartemperament.Allthis,andmore,shetellswithmuchanimation,quiteunaffectedly,andinastylewhich,ifmarkedbynospecialliterarymerit,isalwaysclearandvigorous.Twoworetunicsofcrimsonbrocade,embellishedinfrontwithbroadgoldlace.TheGuildofTailorsimmediatelymadetheirerringbrothertheobjectofthemostdeterminedpersecution,andsucceededinruininghim.Nearerandnearerdrewthethunder,fillingspacewithitssonorousvoice.Noristhefragrantwater-pipe,withitslongvariegatedserpent,anditsjewelledmouth-piece,anydetractionfromtheportrait.Herhusbandmustbeabletocountuponherinhishome;itisshetowhomhemustentrustthekeyofhisheart;hishonour,hishousehold,hiswelfareareinthehandsofhiswife.AmongliterarytravellersaplacemustbeassignedtoLadyMorgan(born1777),thenovelist,whoinherbooksoftravelexhibitsmostofthequalitieswhichlendacharacteristiczesttoherfictions.LadyMorganrevengedherselfbyputtingherscurrilousattachéintohernextnovel,"FlorenceMacarthy,"wherehefiguresasCrawley.Hisdupescollectedroundhisdeadbody,andwaitedpatientlyforhisresurrection;theybegantodoubtonlywhenthecorpsebegantoputrefy.AndMadamed'Aunetisalwaysmostcharmingwhensheismostnatural—thatis,whensheisherself;whenshewritesspontaneously,andfullypossessedbyhersubject,withoutcastinganxiousglancesatthereadertoseeifheadmiresthispolishedperiodorcatchesthataptallusion.Namesappearuponeachpage,withapersonalsketchoramot,whichmakesthereaderatonceoftheirsociety.Scarcelylessremarkableisthegreatsolitarydolmen,whichstillexistsintact,thoughofitsoriginnothingisknown,evenintradition.Therewasevidentlyameaninginthem,thoughMadamedeHellcouldnotunravelit.Thefissuresintheglacierwerefewandverynarrow,andweemployed[Pg39]theladderbutonceortwiceintheimmenseplainofpowderysnowwhich,towardseighto'clock,openedbeforeus.Hermother,aDutchbaroness,wasthedaughterofAdmiralvanCapellen,whocommandedtheDutchsquadronofLordExmouth'sfleetatthebombardmentofAlgiersin1816.Sowildlyromanticwasthescene,withitsshiftinglightsandshadows,itssuddenburstsofsilveryradiancewherethevalleylayopentothemoon,anditsdepthsofdarknessinmanyasinuousrecess,thatevenMadamePfeiffer'srudecompanionsfelttheinfluenceofitsstrangebeauty;and,astheyrodealong,notasoundwasheardbuttheclatterofthehorses'hoofs,andthefallofrollingstonesintothechasmbelow.Wepassedintothepresenceofcolossalmountains,whoseruggedpeaksroselikeinaccessiblefortresses.Therewerechasmsofimmensedepth,darkwiththeindigogloomofpines,andmountainswithsnowgleamingontheirsplinteredcrests,lovelinesstobewilderandgrandeurtoawe,andstillstreamsandshadypools,andcooldepthsofshadow;mountainsagain,densewithpines,amongwhichpatchesofaspengleamedlikegold;valleyswheretheyellowcottonwoodmingledwiththecrimsonoak,andso,onandonthroughthelengtheningshadowstillthetrack,whichinplaceshadbeenhardlylegible,becamewelldefined,andweenteredalonggulchwithbroadswellingsofgrassbeltedwithpines."[41]Long'sPeak,the"AmericanMatterhorn,"14,700feet[Pg423]high,hasseldombeenascended,andMissBirdisthefirstwomanwhohashadthecourageandresolutiontoreachitssummit.NeverhadIpenetratedintoaplaceofsuchsavagebeauty.Theeffectproducedismagical,treesandcropsofallkindsflourishingluxuriantlyunderitsfertilizinginfluence.AtConstantinople,whichshenextvisited,LadyHesterremainedforseveralyears.Themarchbecamemoreandmorepainful.LadyBrasseydescribesonlywhatshehasseen—andshesawagreatdeal.Whilereadingitoneseemstofeelthepure,keen,mountainairaroundone;toseethegreatpeaksrisingoneabovetheotherlikethetowersandspiresofsomevastcathedralofnature;towatchtheever-shiftingphantasmagoriaofgorgeouscolourthatrollsoverthelandscapefromsunrisetosunset,andinthehushofthemoonlitnightdisappearsbeforethesilverradianceofthenascentorb;tohearthefallofthemountainstreams,andtocatchthebreathofthefragrantwindthatcomesfromthepine-forestloadedwithfragranceandfreshnessandsubtleodours.GENEVAANDMONTBLANC.Perhapsthereaderwouldjudgeitmoreseverely;butstilltheconsensusofthebestauthoritiessupportstheview[Pg57]takenbytheprincess,anditisthegoverning-class,ratherthanthemasses,thatseemstojustifythegeneraldislike.Itsamplepastures,teemingwithflocksofostrichesandherdsofgiraffes,stretchawaytotheremotehorizon.ConsequentlywhatsleepIsnatchedturnedintoanightmare,[Pg345]ofwhichthefixedideawasabrokenhead,fromthethreehundredweightofleadatthebottomofourbedswingingwildlyfromsidetosideandupanddown,asthevesselrolledandpitched,suggestingallmannerofaccidents.Grundyism."AFrenchman-of-war,theSeignelay,whichwascarryingaRomanCatholicbishoponacruiseroundhisoceanicdiocese,arrivedatLevaka,anditsofficersmakingtheacquaintanceofMissCumming,courteouslyinvitedhertoaccompanythemonthe[Pg445]remainderoftheircruise.Itsmerits,however,arenotofaliterarycharacter;itsattractivenessisdueentirelytoitssimplicityandstraightforwardness.Itseyes,insteadofbeingclosed,areopenedaswideaspossible;itscheeksarepaintedred;thenthecoldrigidcorpseisdeckedinthefinestclothes,crownedwithflowers,andsetuponalittlechairinaflower-wreathedniche.Towhatextremetheycarriedheritisdifficulttosay."Thecriers'classofJerusalemconsistsofallwhosellinthestreets,ofthecamelanddonkeydrivers,andofthecountry-womenwhodailybringfuel,herbs,vegetables,andeggs,intothecity.ThencetheyproceededtoPortDurban,wheretheydisembarked,and,inwaggonsdrawnbymules,joltedoverthefifty-twomilesthatliebetweenPortDurbanandtheirplaceofdestination,Maritzburg.Fromoneangletheeyelookeddownonamassoffoliageembosomingtheglitteringcupolaandthegoldenballabove.Asatravellershedeservesthedistinctionandpopularityshehasattained.Asufficientstockofprovisionswasgottogether,andasupplyoftrinketsforthepurposeofgiftsorbarter;anescortofthirty-eightmen,includingtensoldiers,fullyarmed,andallbearingagoodcharacterfortrustworthiness,wasengaged;and,finally,shehired,forthelargesumoftenthousandfrancs,asmallsteamboat,belongingtoPrinceHalim,thelateKhedive'sbrother.Whetherhestrikesdownfriendorfoehecaresnot,so[Pg254]longashesecurestheghastlygift;andhiseyebeingassureasthatofthetiger,hisarrownevermissesitsaim.Thissecondbook,likeitspredecessor,iscleverlyandsmartlywritten;itcontainsmanylivelydescriptions,andsomejustcriticismsuponmenandthings.ItwasindeedtheworstseasonfortravellinginRussia.Intheattitudes,thecostume,thephysiognomyofthislittlegroup,therewasanOrientalgracewhichwouldhaveimpressedapainter.Thefeaturesofourmaidensaretoosoonaffectedbythevivacityoftheirimpressions,fortheartist'seyetohaveanychanceofdiscoveringinthemthatdivinegraceofbeautyandignorancewhichsoprofoundlyimpressedmeintheTartarprincesses.Theydidnotpenetrateintotheinterior,andtheirrangewasnotverywideornovel,butwhattheysawtheydescribewithcharacteristicandpains-takingfidelity.Thedeathofthefatherhavinginvolvedthefamilyinthediscomfortofnarrowcircumstances,thepenshehadhithertowieldedforamusementshetookupwiththeviewofgaininganindependentlivelihood;andsheconceivedtheideaofemployingfictionasavehiclefortheexpositionandpopularizationoftheprinciplesofsocialandpoliticaleconomy.Inamomenttheywerealldownontheirkneesbeforeitlisteningwithraptdelight,theoldmantellingthemthemusicwascausedbyverylittlepeopleinsidethebox,whowereobligedtodoexactlyasIbadethem.Weattempttherefore,noanalysisofherworks,[2]butproceedtospeakofhermountaineeringexperiences:themostimportantistheascentoftheMönch,asummitoftheJungfrausystem—oneoftheloftysnow-cladpeakswhichenclosetheice-riversoftheOberaarandtheUnteraar.Inpicturesquenessofdescriptionshehasbeenexcelled[Pg63]bymany,insobernessandcorrectnessofstatementbynone;and,afterall,itismoreimportantthatourtravellersshouldtelluswhattheyhavereallyseen,thanwhattheywouldhavewishedtosee;shouldtrusttotheirintelligenceasobserversratherthantotheirfancyaspoets."IhadscarcelyenteredbeneaththehospitableroofofthehoteloftheEagle,beforetherainfellintorrents,likeawaterspout.Sheatehereggsanddrankhermilkwithanappetite,which,toanepicure,wouldhavebeenasurprise.Wetakeanextract,inillustrationofthem,fromMadamedeBourboulon'sjournal:—"Irodeonhorsebackthismorning,"shesays,"enticedbytheaspectofthebeautifulgreenprairiesofTaïrene.Acoupleoflitters,carriedbymules,werealsoprepared;onewasintendedforMadamedeBourboulon,incaseofneed,theotherfortheconveyanceoffivecharminglittleChinesedogswhichshehopedtotransporttoEurope.ThecostumeofthecommonKalmuksexhibitsnodecidedpeculiarity,apartfromthecap,whichisinvariablyofyellowclothtrimmedwithblacklambskin,andiswornbybothsexes.SituatedattheconfluenceofthetwoNiles,theWhiteandtheBlue,itisalreadythecentreofaconsiderablecommerce,andtherendezvousofalmostallthecaravansofNubiaandtheUpperNile.TROLLOPE.SheafterwardsreachedOdessa,oneofthegreatEuropeangranaries,situatedatthemouthoftheDniesterontheEuxine.WhenaBarifallsill,hehastenstoconsultthePunok,receivesfromhimsomeinfallibleandgrotesquerecipe,and—beholdheiscured!Hisfaithintheprescribedremedyisthesourceofitsefficacy.Sometimeshedidnotreachhometillmidnight,andatothertimeswasseizedontheroadwithanattackoffever.Constantlyfallingvictimstothecrueltyoftheslave-hunters,itis[Pg199]nowonderthattheyregardwithsuspicion,andtoooftentreatwithferocity,thestrangerswhotraversetheirland;notunnaturallytheyimplicatetheminthetrafficwhichcrushesthemtotheground.AccordingtoMadamedeBourboulon,SiberiaismorecivilizedthanoldRussia;sotrueisitthatitiseasiertooverlayanewcountrywithcivilizationthantorejuvenateanoldone."Inthisrespect,"saysMadamedeHell,"sheisunquestionablysuperiortothehighesteffortsoffascinationwhichParisianartcanachieve."AvisittothefamilyofaCircassianprince"athome"isthusnarratedbyourtravellers:Thedwellingwasawretchedmudhut,infrontofwhich,onamat,laytheprinceinhisshirt,andbarefooted.TheBaronessAxinialivedatOulou-Ouzon,andthiswasherstory:Shewasmarriedataveryearlyagetoamanmucholderthanherself.AttheearlyageofsixteenshewasmarriedtothePrinceEmiledeBarbiandeBelgiojoso.Sheworeawhiterobefastenedroundthewaistbyaredkazavek.Nodoubtitservedasacloakformanyvices,butwehavethevicesstill,withoutthecloak!"Ishouldbesurprised,"saysMrs."ThethreateningyellsoftheassailantsweresuddenlychangedforloudshoutsofjoyandadmirationatthebraveryofthestatelyEnglishwoman,andfestivegunshotswerefiredonallsidesaroundherhonouredhead.andMadamedeBourboulon,resumingtheirjourney,pressedforwardwithsuchalacritythat,inthespaceoftenhours,theysometimesaccomplished127versts,thoughthisrateofspeedmustnecessarilyhavetoldheavilyonthestrengthofMadamedeBourboulon.HerefallstheStaubbach,thrownlikesilverrain,drivenhitherandthitherbythewindoverthefieldwhichitkeepsgreenbelow;hererushesdownthestrongTrummelsbach,foamingfromtheembraceofthecliffs;therethestillstrongerRosenbach,[Pg155]whichtheJungfraupoursoutofhersilverhorn.InsteadofreachingBerber,astheyshouldhavedone,infourdays,theyspentaweekinthevoyage;butitwassomecompensationfortheirfatiguewhen,attwohours'marchfromthecity,theywerereceivedbysomethirtychiefs,mounteduponcamels,andattendedbyjanissariesinsplendidattire,who,withmuchpompandcircumstance,escortedthemtothegatesofBerber.Asilknet,bedizenedwithjewelsandnaturalflowers,coveredherhead,whichthusresembledabouquetsprinkledwithdiamonds.TheSunbeamarrivedthereonthe22ndofDecember.Youneverhearthemutterawordinthestreets,nordotheypauseforamoment.Oh,howslowthehoursseemedtome!Idreadedsokeenlyanyoccurrencewhichmightthwartmywishes,thatIcouldscarcelylistentothequestionsputtomerespectingthenecessaryarrangements.Itisonlythusthattravelcanbemadeprofitable,orthatagenuineenjoymentcanbederivedfromit;justasitisonlyanharmoniousnaturethatfeelsthefullcharmofmusic."Butoftentheburdenissoheavythatthepolebendswiththeweight—ofperhapstwohugebunchesofmountainbananas,andyouthinkhowthatpoorfellow'sshouldermusthaveachedashecarriedhisspoildownthesteepmountainpathfromthecleftintheruggedrockwherethefaceshadcontrivedtotakeroot.ThemomentMissMartineautookherseatshewasstruckwithcompassionforthischild,wholookedsograve,sad,andtimid,whiletheothersrompedandgiggled,andindulgedinlaughterattheirownsillyjokes;shesmilednot,butlookedonlistlessly."Aboutthreeo'clockinthemorningwetookleaveofthehospitablecavern,butitwasnotwithoutdifficultywecrossedtheprecipiceswhichfrownedbeforeus,andforthefirsttimehadtoemployourlongladder.Onthesideoppositetothesoftly-roundedcrownofParosshinesouttheinteriorsummitofNaxos,highabovethemountainofMelanès,agiantheadupongiantshoulders,whicharecalledBolibay,andhaveafantasticappearance.Thegreatscourgeoftheplace—evennow,afteralltheefforts,notwhollyunsuccessful,ofColonelGordon,isthedetestableslave-trade;andbyitsabettorstheprojectedjourneyofMissTinnéwasregardedwithmuchhostility.Sheawokeatlasttoaperceptionofthehollownessofherauthority."Thedeepsolitudearoundmehadinitsomethingofsolemnity.ThereligiousopinionsofLadyHesterseemedtoherguestaskilfulthoughconfusedmixtureofthe[Pg316]variouscreedsamongwhichshewascondemned—orhadcondemnedherself—tolive.Attheupperendofthevalley,towardsthewest,thecliffsoneithersideweresomewhatdepressed.ButthefeelingthatIhaveisquiteadifferentthing,andIthankGodthatHehasopenedmyeyes.OntheroadtheyfellinwithatroopofCircassians.Shereadandre-readtheliterarymasterpiecesofEngland,FranceandGermany.Dropsofbloodoftentinted,likepurpleflowers,theverdurewecrushedunderfoot.Thentherewerestringsofbeadsonherpretty,shapelythroatandarms,andabrightscarletribbontiedtightlyroundeachankle.TheKurdspractisepolygamy;theirreligionissimplythepracticeofafewformalitieswhichrepetitionrendersmeaningless.Afteracoupleofwearisomedays,occupiedinclearingnarrowdefiles,torrents,andplainsofblindingdust,theyreachedtheLazaristMission.PepperandgambieplantationsarealsoamongthesightsofSingapore.Thewinter-saloonisaprettyapartmentheatedbyagoodstove,coveredwiththickcarpets,andpassablyfurnishedwithsilkenandwoollendivansarrangedallroundtheapartment.Asmightbeexpected,sheexcelsinportraiture.Hisfriendcontrivedtogivehimdecentburial.MintoElliothaswrittentwopleasantvolumesdescriptiveoftheexperiencesof"AnIdleWomaninSicily,"buttheycontainnothingveryneworstriking.Itsvegetationwitnesseseverywhereto

Nature'slavishuseofhermaterials.Theirdoctorsassertedthatthedrinkingofmilkgaveyellownesstothecomplexion;yetmilkwasheronlyfood,andwasnotherfacewhite?"Herintellectualabstemiousnesswasnotlessseverethan[Pg322]herphysicalself-denial.Shewasbornin1802.Havingthuscrossedthemountain-rangeoftheSierrasanddescendedintotheplains,sheenteredupontheregionofthe"boundlessprairies—greatstretchesofverdure,generallylevel,butelsewhererollinginlongundulations,likethewavesofaseawhichhadfallenasleep."Theirmonotonyisbrokenbylargevillagesoftheso-calledprairiedogs,theWishton-Wish,akindofmarmot,whichowesitsmisleadingnametoitsshort,sharpbark.IntheCaucasiansteppesourtraveller'slifehadbeensingularlycalmandserene;inMoldaviaitwasagitatedanddisturbedbymundaneoccupations,byofficialreceptions,balls,concerts,dinners,thetheatre,andthethousandandoneresponsibilitiesofsociallife.Hernightssheusuallyspentinabsorbedcommunionwiththesesilentbuteloquentteachers,andtookherrestduringthedaytime.Onthewallbehindhungpictures,whicharechangedeverymonth,accordingtotheseasonoftheyear.1.F.3.LIMITEDRIGHTOFREPLACEMENTORREFUND-Ifyoudiscoveradefectinthiselectronicworkwithin90daysofreceivingit,youcanreceivearefundofthemoney(ifany)youpaidforitbysendingawrittenexplanationtothepersonyoureceivedtheworkfrom.TherearealotofthingsyoucandowithProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworksifyoufollowthetermsofthisagreementandhelppreservefreefutureaccesstoProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks.Thosemostinfavourarebrightcrimson,withalargewhitepattern,perhapsgroupsofredcrownsoncirclesofwhite,arrangedonascarletground,orelserowsofwhitecrownsalternatingwithgroupsofstars.Thedesertdidnotprovesodrearyasithadbeenpainted;sandandrockwerefrequentlyrelievedbystretchesofgraciousverdure.Atintervals,afewstuntedlarcheswereoutlinedagainsttheeverlastingsnows.Butonthefollowingdayhedroppedhismask.OwingtoanukaseofCatherineII.,whichallowedtheTartarstokeeppossessionoftheirancientcapital,BagtcheSerairetainstothisdayitsindividualityofaspect.Scenestherearemanyinthiswideworldofourswhichneitherthecraftofthescribenortheskillofthepaintercanhopetoreproduce,andthisisoneofthem.Hiscriesforhelp,andhisgrimaceswhenmyhusbandandtheCossackhadsethimonhisfeet,weresodesperate,thatonemighthavesupposedhalfhisbonestobebroken,though,inreality,hehadsustainedonlyafewbruises.Attiredinalongbrownpetticoat,andavestwhichconcealedherfigure,sheworeamanlyvirileaspect,accordingthoroughlywiththecharacterofthelifeshehadadopted.Toendurethepainsandperilsofsuchajourneyshemusthavehad,notonlyaremarkablephysicalenergy,butascarcelylessremarkableenergyofmind.ReachingNatchivanafteranuneventfuljourney,shejoinedacaravanboundforTiflis,thedriversofwhichwereTartars.Thereisaconstantsuccessionofcaravansofcamels,directedbyMongols,Turcomans,Tibetans;oftroopsofmules,withclinkingbells,bringingsaltfromSetchouanorteafromHou-pai;andofimmenseherdsofhornedcattle,horses,andsheep,inchargeofthedexteroushorsemenoftheTchakar,whokeepthemtogetherbytheutteranceofloudgutturalcries,andbydealingthemsmartcutswiththeirlongwhips.LadyBrasseyevidentlybelongsnottotheniladmirarischool,butenjoyskeenlyandheartilyeverythingthatisfreshandnew—abrightbitofcolourorapicturesquedetail."Inrelationtothis,"saysKinglake,"theprophetesstoldmeastoryratheragainstherself,andinconsistent[Pg323]withthenotionofherbeingperfectinherscience;butIthinkthatshementionedthefactsashavinghappenedbeforesheattainedtothegreatspiritualauthoritywhichshenowarrogated.Shewaseverywherereceivedwithsomuchenthusiastichospitality,evenbyQuakers,Shakers,Plungers,andotherofthosestrangesectsdescribedwithsomuchunctionbythelateMr.[Pg152]HepworthDixon,thatherusualkeenpowersofobservationwerenecessarilyobscured.Wedescendedbackwardsthecloseandnarrowsteps,strictlyforbiddentocastadownwardglance.Overallextendsthearchofaglowingsky.Itisdoubtful,indeed,whetherevenherbetterworkismuchknowntothereadingpublicofthepresentday.[38][Pg403]ThiscleverandindustriouswomandiedatFlorenceonthe6thofOctober,1863,intheeighty-fifthyearofherage.AtBuenosAyresIhaveseenthepooranimalsallbutswimmingtotheshore,withheavycartsandloads,fromtheshipsanchoredintheinnerroads;forthewaterissoshallow,thatonlyverysmallboatscangoalongsidethevessels,andthecargoisthereforetransferreddirectlytothecartstosavethetroubleandexpenseoftranshipmentInout-of-the-wayplaces,onthePampas,wherenochurnsexist,butterismadebyputtingmilkintoagoat-skinbag,attachedbyalonglassotothesaddleofapeon,whoisthensettogallopacertainnumberofmiles,withthebagbumpingandjumpingalongthegroundafterhim."[29]WhenonherwaytotheStraitsofMagellan,LadyBrasseysawsomethingofoneofthemostterribleof"disastersatsea"—ashiponfire.MadamedeHellwouldafterwardsremarkonthestrangetenacitywithwhichill-luckadherestouswhenithasovertakenus.SinwastheMusewhichheinvoked;horrorattendedhisfootsteps;thousandsofmonstersservedashisescort,andfurnishedhimwiththeoriginalsofthe"disgusting"portraitswhichhepassedhislifeinpainting.'Awoman!'washisanswer,completelyscandalizedbymyquestion,andIbegantosuspectthattheTurkswerenotsuchbrutesastheyarepopularlysupposedtobeinEurope.""ThefollowinganecdotealsorelatestomyresidenceatConstantinople.Herhairwasdrawnstraightupfromherheadlikeatiara,stainedred,andornamentedwithaprofusionofboneskewers,atuftoffeathersbeingstuckcoquettishlyoveroneear,andabandofbeadembroidery,studdedwithbrass-headednails,wornlikeafilletwherethehairgrewlowontheforehead.TheSandwichIslandsarealmostthesamedistancenorthastheSocietyaresouthoftheEquator.HereLadyBrasseywasreceivedwithgreathospitality,andsurveyedthenewandrisingcivilizationofHawaiiwithmuchinterest.InlatteryearscameIbrahimPasha,withheavygunsandwickedspellstoboot,buttheinfernalguardiansofthetreasureweretoostrongforhim.Theyareallofalargersizethanthedwellingsofthevillagers;aremuchcleaner,andkeptinbettercondition.Theworld,charmedbyherpersonalattractions,hadnosuspicionoftherestlessnessandactivityofherinquiringmind.Anotherreasonforhastewasthechangein[Pg96]theweather,whichhadsuddenlyturnedcold;so,disregardingtheinformationgiventhem,theycontinuedtopushforwarduntiltheyreachedthebridge."To-day,"shewritesinherjournal,"Ihavehadthegreathonourtoshowmytalent,orrathermyignorance,onthepianobeforetheQueen.Shewasmarchingonedayalongwiththemilitaryarrayofthetribe.MadamedeHellbestowedalonggazeonthehaughtyandsombrecountenanceofthebaron.Itispleasanttoknow,however,thatjusticeeventuallyovertookhermurderers,whowerecapturedintheinterior,broughttoTripoli,tried,andsentencedtoimprisonmentforlife.[17]SuchwastheunhappyterminationofMissTinné'scareer—acareerinwhichmuchwaspromisedandsomethingperformed,butinwhich,itmustbeowned,theperformancewasnotequaltothepromise.Theinfusionthenacquiresconsistency,andadullredcolour.Afire-redcloudwasspreadlikeanarchabovetheverduroushills,greenwithpalmsandothertrees.MadamePfeifferundertookanexcursiontotheLakeVaihiria,assumingfortheoccasionakindofmasculineattire,verysuitableifnotpeculiarlybecoming.ShelearnedFrenchandmusicthoroughly,andattainedtosuchproficiencyintheclassicsthatshecouldnotonlywriteLatinbutthinkinLatin.Shehadbeenthefriendofhismother,andconsequentlyhehadnodifficultyinobtainingadmission.Myriadsofshrubsfurnishtheblueapewithashelter;theairsparkleswiththemany-colouredwingsofswarmsofbirds.Anhouraftersunsettheycandistinguishacamelatadistanceofupwardsofthreemiles.Theytravelledbyshortstages,andwhentowardsnightfalltheyreachedavillagewhichseemedtoofferconvenientquarters,MissTinnéwouldsendforthesheikh,andthegiftofafewbeadswasalwayssufficienttosecurethemconvenientquarters.Atsixo'clockinthemorningeverybodywasassembledinthecourtoftheyamounoftheFrenchlegation.Thisexperienceoftravelsharpenedherappetiteforadventure.Byelevatinghismasterhethoughtthathewasraisinghimself."FrederikaBremerdidnotallowhersupposititioustitleofSittitoblindhertothefactthatshewasbeforeallapoetandawomanofletters."Itisnoeasytask,"sheexclaims,"todescribethemagicofthissuperbandmysteriousabode,whereinthevoluptuousKhansforgotthetrialsandsorrowsoflife:Icannotdoit,asinthecaseofoneofourWesternpalaces,byanalyzingthestyle,thearrangement,andthedetailsofitssplendidarchitecture,bydecipheringtheideaoftheartistintheregularity,grace,andsimplicityofthenobleedifice.FromSingapore,MadamePfeiffercrossedtoPointdeGalle,inCeylon.Itwasbuiltabout220b.c.,asaprotectionagainsttheTartarmarauders,andextendsfrom3°30'E.ThenwewenttothelittleTempleofVictory,closedwithirongates,andfullofmostexquisitebitsofstatuesandbas-reliefs,speciallytwodancinggirls,gracefulinattitudeandfulloflifeandaction.Aropewasthrowntothem,andtheycamealongside,shouting"Tabáco,galléta"(biscuit),asupplyofwhichtheyreceived,inexchangefortheskintheyhadbeenwaving;"whereuponthetwomenstrippedthemselvesoftheskinmantlestheywerewearing,madeofeightortensea-otterskins,sewedtogetherwithfinersinewsthanthoseusedfortheboat,andhandedthemup,clamouringformoretobacco,whichwegavethem,togetherwithsomebeadsandknives."Finally,thewoman,influencedbysofairanexample,partedwithhersolegarment,inreturnforalittlemoretobacco,somebeads,andsomelooking-glasses,whichwerethrownintothecanoe.Weweresoonundeceived.Wilkinsontellsus,'Plinysaysitmeasuredfromthebellytothehighestpartoftheheadsixty-threefeet;itslengthwasonehundredandforty-three;andthecircumferenceofitsheadroundtheforeheadonehundredandtwofeet;allcutoutinthenaturalrock,andworkedsmooth.'Fancythelongwell-openedeyes,insuchproportionasthis—eyeswhichhavegazedunwinkinginto[Pg411]vacancy,whilemightyPharaohs,andHebrewlaw-givers,andPersianprinces,andGreekphilosophers,andAntonywithCleopatrabyhisside,andChristiananchorites,andArabwarriors,andEuropeanmenofscience,havebeenbroughthitherinsuccessionbytheunpausingagestolookupintothoseeyes—sofullofmeaning,thoughsofixed!"[39]AtDamascusshevisitedaTurkishharem,andheraccountofthevisitthereaderwillfindsomeinterestincomparingwithMadameHommairedeHell'snarrativeofasimilarexperience.Whetheritwasthatanimpatientandarestlessspiritrebelledagainstsocialconventionalisms,orwhethershewasactuatedbyanearnestloveofknowledge,orwhethersomeromanceofcrushedhopeandrejectedlovewasinvolved,isnotcertainlyknown;butrich,andgifted,andfortunateasshewas,shesuddenlydisappearedfromtheHagueabout1859,andaftera[Pg187]briefvisittoNorwayandarapidtourtoItaly,Constantinople,andPalestineproceededtothebanksoftheNile.Atlengththeyreachedthestation,butinanunpleasantcondition—wet,weary,dazed,andnotalittlesurprisedtofindthemselvessafeandsoundaftertheadventuresoftheday.Itsnumerousgalleriesaffordedviewsovereverypartoftheislandonwhichthepalacewassituated,andcommandedalongreachoftheshiningriver.IwasfilledwithsuchasenseofGodthatmyheart—soitseemedto[Pg43]me—wasnotlargeenoughtocontainit.Theheatwasexcessive;walking,slowandverydifficult,forateachstepwesankalmosttoourknees.Sheaccompaniedherhusband,in1874,onacruisetotheArcticCircle,buthaspublishednorecordofthisenterprise.Severalcoffins,halfopenandempty,hadformerlybeenoccupiedbyhumanbodies,whichtheteethofthewhitebearhadrecentlyprofaned.AtTomsktheirreceptionwasnotlesscordialthanithadbeenatIrkutsk.Ouragreeablehostessbelongstotheornamentsofherbalcony,intowhichflowersareassiduouslythrownbygentlemenincarriagesandonfoot.Thetoneishighandsustained.In1809shewascompelledbyhermothertoaccompanyhertotheEmperor'sreviewofhisImperialGuardsatSchönbrunn;butwhenheapproachedthegroundsheindignantlyturnedherback.Thefirstcanerequireseighteenmonthstoripen;butas,meanwhile,thechiefstemthrowsoutshoots,eachofthesucceedingharvestscanbegatheredinatintervalsoftwelvemonths:hencefourcropscanbeobtainedinfouryearsandahalf.Writingtohermother,inOctober,1831,shesays:—"Lifeseemsnowtobeofvaluetome.TheFoundation'sprincipalofficeislocatedat4557MelanDr.S.MadamedeHellandherhusband,however,accomplishedtheirjourneyinsafety,thoughnotwithoutenduringconsiderablepainandanxiety."ScenesofinfinitebeautyandgrandeurmightbelyinghiddeninthesilentsolitudeofthemountainswhichboundthebarrenplainsofthePampas,intowhosemysteriousrecessesnooneasyethadeverventured.Shewasnotlessaddictedtovoyagesandtravels—toanyreading,infact,whichsatisfiedherloveofadventure.Thestreetsandsquaresareallveryirregularlybuilt;thehousesarenotplacedinrows,butinclusters—someatthefootofthehill,othersonitsslopes.'Andthen,'saidthey,'whatshallwedowithoutshelter,withoutcoverings,withoutfire,withoutanyhotdrink(foroursupplyofcoffeewasexhausted),inthemidstofthisice?'Iknewinmyhearttheywereright,butIwaskeenlydisappointedatfailingtoreachthegoalwhenitseemedsonear.RapidlytraversingtheMesopotamianwastes,theyarrivedatMosulonthe1stofJuly,andthenceMadamePfeifferproceededtoinspecttheruinsofNineveh.andhisCrusaderslandedhere,andthelion-heartedkingbecameenamouredofBerengaria,thedaughteroftheCypriotprince."Ohno,"theyreplied,"forwomenthatwouldbeasin!"WomenbredinthisstateofmentalandmoraldegradationcanneverplayanimportantpartintheregenerationoftheEast.Butquicklythatcountenancelightedup,andthemoreMissBremerstudied,duringtheirlongconversation,themoresignificantandagreeableshefoundit.AgainIreceivedtheanswer:'Butshewasawoman!'"AmongfemaletravellersthePrincessofBelgiojosomustholdanhonourableplace,invirtueoftheaccuracyofherobservationandtheclearnessofherjudgment.Manyofthehouses,andsometimesgroupsofthreeorfourhouses,areencircledbylowrampartsofearth,which,apparently,servenootherpurposethantoseparatethecourtyardsfromtheneighbouringtenements.Thewoodsshemostpreferredwerejessamine,rose,andcork.ItrisessuddenlyfromthelimestonerockatthefootofPentadactylon,nearly3,000feethigh,inthenorthernrangeofmountains.Thedeceasedangelito,orlittleangel,isadornedinvariousways.Ibelievethatallthingsarecalculated,andwhatiswritteniswritten;butIdonotsupposethatthedevilisindependentofGod:hereceiveshisorders.Otherbirdssoonimitatedtheirexample,andthusthebeautifulsolitarycametorepresent,undesignedly,oneofthemostcharmingcreationsofGeorgesSand,thebird-charmer,inhernovelof'Tévérino.'"[Pg119]InoneofherwalkswithMadamedeHell,thebaronessconductedhernewfriendtothesceneofthetragicdramawhichhadbrokenupherlife.SheseemedtobelivingintheolddaysoftheKhalifs—thosedayswhichtheauthorsofthe"ThousandandOneStories"[Pg69]haveimmortalized—tobeliving,forexample,inthe"goldenprimeofgoodHarounAl-Raschid"—asshesawbeforeherthemotleyprocessionofveiledwomen,Persianswiththeirpointedbonnets,Hindujugglerswithlithelissomfigures,negroslaves,grey-beardedbeggarslookinglikeprincesindisguise,andArmenianswrappedintheirlongfurredcloaks.WithmuchtoilandtroublewedescendedthedeclivitiesoftheMönch.Shehadakilt,orseriesofapronsrather,oflynxskins,asortofbodiceofcalf-skin,andoverhershoulders,arrangedwithineffablegrace,agaytable-cover.TheprimitivepeoplesofIndiaandTibetwerecivilizedatanearlyperiodoftheworld'shistory;buttheimmensewildernessputanimpassablebarrierbetweenthemandthebarbaroustribesofNorthernAsia.Theyoungestson,agedthirteen,wasnotyetmarried;buthewouldbethinkingaboutitsoon.Fewaretheyearsinwhichoneofthese"rain-makers"doesnotperish,unlessheiscraftyenoughtoeffecthisescapebeforehisdeceptionisdiscovered.Itsserenelovelinesscharmedher,andshecomparedit,notinappropriately,toVirginiaWater,thepicturesqueminiaturelakewhichshinesamidthefoliageddepthsofWindsorForest.VolunteersandfinancialsupporttoprovidevolunteerswiththeassistancetheyneedarecriticaltoreachingProjectGutenberg-tm'sgoalsandensuringthattheProjectGutenberg-tmcollectionwillremainfreelyavailableforgenerationstocome.Such,inbrief,isMadamePfeiffer'sexplanation.ItwasthebirthdayofQueenVictoria,andasourlandlordwasabletoputhishandupontwobottlesofchampagne,wedrank,alongwithSirFrederickBruceandMr.Wade,herMajesty'shealth.Hetookmebacktothetrack;andtheinterview,whichbeganwithapistol-shot,endedquitepleasantly.Atfirstthesuburbsweresimplyvillages;buttheyhavegraduallyexpandeduntiltheyhavetouchedoneanother,andformedaunitedaggregate.InthetrackofthetradewindsthevoyagerscrossedthePacific,which,sofarastheywereconcerned,justifieditsname,toJapan;thencetheyproceededtoHong-Kong,andthroughtheStraitsofMalaccatoPenang.OnthefirstdayMadamePfeiffer'spatiencewasseverelytested;forallthewomenoftheplacehastenedtoexamine"thestrangewoman."Firsttheyinspectedherclothes,andnextwantedtotakeoffherturban;infact,theywereinquisitivebeyondalltoleration.TheFoundationmakesnorepresentationsconcerningthecopyrightstatusofanyworkinanycountryoutsidetheUnitedStates.Inthemostcriticalmomentshecontrivedsofartoretainhisself-commandastowavehisarmsintokenoftriumph;and,inspiteofthepassionandtemperofhisuntrainedsteed,heldsufficientcontroloverittokeepitalwayswithinthecircleofthespectators'vision.AtAraxshecrossedtheRussianfrontier.Ifoundmyselfveryspeedilyinthemiddleofacemetery;butthistime,theremainslyingonthefrozensnowwerehuman.Withakeen,quickglancetheymeasurethedistance,andfallbacksomeyards,inordertorunandacquiretheneedfulimpetus.Browning.)AccordingtoLadyBrassey,thefirstglimpseofthefar-spreadingprairiewasmoststrikinginallitsvariationsofcolour.Atmidnight,hercountrymanandthe[Pg328]missionarycarriedheroutbytorchlighttoaspotinthegardenthathadbeenformerlyherfavouriteresort,andtheretheyburiedtheself-exiledlady."SomecuriousparticularsofLadyHesterStanhope'smodeoflifeinitsclosingyearsarerecordedbyherphysician.Theofficersoftheescortgoinadvancetopreparetentsorwigwamsformedofhurdles,uponwhichisstretchedagreatawningoffelt;thewholehasverymuchtheappearanceofanenormousumbrella,withaholeatthetop,toletouttheheatedair,andatneedthesmoke.Thepositivecastoftheirmindspreventsthemfromseeingthebeautifulinaughtbutcostlymaterial,well-definedforms,andhighly-polishedworkmanship:hence,tothemBagtcheSeraimustbeameregroupofshabbyhutsadornedwithpaltryornaments,andfitonlyforthehabitationofmiserableTartars."Tothisorderofminds,however,MadamedeHell,aswehavehadabundantopportunitiesofobserving,didnotbelong,andBagtcheSeraihasjusticedonetoitatherhands.Theywereallfatandhealthy-looking,and,thoughnothandsome,theirappearancewasbynomeansrepulsive;thecountenanceofthewoman,especially,worequiteapleasingexpression,whenlightedupwithsmilesatthesightofthebeadsandlooking-glasses."MostdeplorableistheinfluenceofthispaintingwhencombinedwiththeslothanduncleannessnaturaltothewomenoftheEast.Hers,Iown,inallhumility,seemedtoindicatemuchmoresurpriseat,thanapprovalof,mytravellingcostume."ThepromisethatIwouldholdsacredtheconfidencesofthatshatteredheartcompelsmetoleavemynarrativeimperfect.Notoneofherescort—herthreeEuropeanattendantsbeingalsomassacred—offeredheranyassistance,andshewaslefttolingerforfour-and-twentyhoursinmortalagonyatthedoorofhertent(August1st).ButitisonlyfairthatMissBirdshouldbeheardonherownaccount:—"Atremendousascentamongrocksandpinestoaheightof9,000feetbroughtustoapassagesevenfeetwidethroughawallofrock,withanabruptdescentof2,000feet,andayethigherascentbeyond.Wepassunderavault,thenichesofwhichenclosethebonesoftheMingemperors;aspiralstaircase,withsculpturedbalustrades,veryhandsomeinstyle,conductstoasecondplatform,elevatedsomeseventyfeetabovetheground.Ihaveseenaphotographofone,withapolicecertificateofmendicancyhangingroundhisneck.Everybodyinsistedonreadingtomethemostfrightfulpassages—thosemostlikely,astheythought,tounnerveme.ThedefectwhichwehaveindicatedinMissBremer's"HomesoftheNewWorld"doesnotappearinthelaterwork,"TwoYearsinSwitzerlandandItaly."HerewefindthatwarmsympathywithNature,thatvividappreciationofthebeautiful,whichwemightreasonablyexpectfromonewhohadthepoet'sfeelingandfancy,thoughnotendowedwiththepoet'sfacultyofexpression.[12]Intheopeningchapteror"station,"asshepreferstocallit,wecomeuponapicturefullofpowerandcolour,inwhichtheartistusesherpencilwithequalgraceandfreedom.Andflower-boatsshealsosaw;theiruppergalleriesdeckedwithflowers,garlands,andarabesques,asiftheywerebarksfittedoutfortheenjoymentofQueenTitaniaandherfairycompany.Theobeisancesandgreetingswerethenresumed,duereverencewaspaidtoKingRadama'smonument,andthevisitors,astheyretired,wereagaincautionednottoputtheleftfootfirstoverthethreshold.Whattheseapartmentsarereallydeficientinisair;buttheladiesarefarfrommakinganycomplaint.Halfacenturylaterandtheyhurrytohorseraces,andfightoneanotherforacaprice.BeforeMadamedeHellquittedtheChersonese,shepaidavisittoKarolez,amountainvillagebelongingtothePrincessAdelBey,whoreceivedhervisitorswithadmirablecourtesy.Thebaroness,afterenjoyingmyastonishment,toldmethattwoyearsbeforeshehadbroughtupacoupleoftomtits,andgiventhemtheirliberty;andthat,inthefollowingyear,thecouplereturnedwiththeirbrood,whowereeasilytaughttotaketheirfoodfromthehandsoftheircharmingprotectress.Physicallyaswellasmentallysheseemstohaveprovedherselftheequalofmen.[Pg437]Endurance,courage,promptitude,decision,thecapacityforquietandaccurateobservation,thereadyadaptabilitytocircumstances—shepossessedallthesehighvirtues.Theinterior,openonallsides,containsanÆolianharp,themelancholynotesofwhich,blendingwithallthemountainechoes,descendsoftlytothevalley.Cloudsaccumulatedonthesky.WeneedhardlyaddthatsuchfanaticismasthiswouldnotbepossiblenowintheUnitedStates.Onthe17thofJuneshejoinedacaravanwhichwasboundforMosul,ajourneyofthreehundredmiles,occupyingfromtwelvetofourteendays,andlyingacrossadesertcountryofthemostinhospitablecharacter.Pleasanttolookuponwerethedensegroupsofshapelytrees:palms,mimosas,acacias,thegum-tree—whichfrequentlyrivalstheoakinsize—andthegracefultamarisk.InSwitzerland,Ilivedamongthemountains,thatImightgainanexactideaoftheAlpinelife.EnteringthefamiliarwatersoftheAtlantic,itputintoLisbon,andafterwardsfellintothetrackfor"home,"sightingthefirstEnglishland,theStart,veryearlyinthemorningofthe26thofMay.Yonderfloatingislands,incessantlyunderminedbythesea,changetheiroutlineeverymoment;byanabruptmovementthebasebecomesthesummit;aspiretransformsitselfintoamushroom;acolumnbroadensoutintoavastflattable,atowerischangedintoaflightofsteps;andallsorapidlyandunexpectedlythat,inspiteofoneself,onedreamsthatsomesupernaturalwillpresidesoverthosesuddentransformations.LadyBrassey'ssketchisnotsoelaborateorpowerfulorfullycoloured,butithasacharmofitsowninitsunassumingsimplicity.Idonotremembereverbeforetohaveseensuchaphenomenon,andIleaveittothosewhoaremorelearnedthanIamtodecidewhatlawofopticsdisclosedittoourastonishedgaze."WemustpassmorerapidlythandidourtravellersthroughthelandoftheKhalkhas,aracewhonominallyacknowledgetheauthorityofthesonofHerica,thegreatMandchoo,thedescendantofGenghiz-khan,whogovernstheempireoftheCentre,butpayhimneithertaxnortribute,andare,inreality,governedandadministeredbytheGuison-Tamba,oneofthedivineincarnationsofBuddhainthebodyofaneternalchildwhocomesfromtheholycourtofTibet.ThebarqueprovedtobetheMonkshaven,fromSwansea,withacargoofsmelting[Pg352]coalforValparaiso.(ThisfilewasproducedfromimagesgenerouslymadeavailablebyTheInternetArchive/AmericanLibraries.)Updatededitionswillreplacethepreviousone--theoldeditionswillberenamed.TheprinceshaveadoptedtheCircassiancostume,ortheuniformoftheAstrakhanCossacks,towhichbodysomeofthembelong.'Whateverhappens,'hesaid,'doyoutaketheresponsibility?''Assuredly,'Ianswered;andIgavehimmyhand,engaginghimatthesametimetoremainunmovedbyanyremonstrance,toencouragetheguidesontheirarrival,beforetheycouldbeexposedtoanyforeigninfluence.Theresheerectedhertent.Thesailorsandservantsaccordinglylanded,andsettoworkwithsturdyarmstohaulthemagainstthestream.Hersingularindependenceofthoughtandcharacterhadalreadyinvestedherwithafatalreputationfor"eccentricity,"andto"eccentricity"heractionwasverygenerally[Pg304]attributed.Whenwecametoastretchofgranite,ourspeedwasdoubled,andwhoeverfirstsetfootuponitwouldannouncethefacttotheothers.But,inthecourseofafewdays,thisconstraintpassedaway,andawarmintimacysprangupbetweenus.Sheandhercompanionssawthesevenwivesofthreegentlemen,besidesacrowdofattendantsandvisitors.Theylivethetruenomadiclife,beingalmostconstantlyonhorseback,anddashingatheadlongspeedacrosstheirwideandopenplains.ThisspotiscalledSnakeHill,fromtwosnakeshavingoncebeendiscoveredandkilledhere,afactwhichshowshowidlearetherumoursoftheprevalenceofpoisonousreptilesintheisland.Apparentlytheymakethemtheobjectofarudecultus,astheLappsdothehare.TheywhohadpaintedthegreatMinister'sportraithadnotunderstoodthiscountenancenorthecharacterofthehead."Idonotthink,"saysMadamedeHell,"thatinthewholecourseofmytravelswewereeverinsoalarmingasituation."Itwasdecidedthatweshouldtakewithusfourportersloadedwithprovisions,ladders,ropes,andpick-axes;thattowardseveningIshouldstartforInterlachenwithPierreandJaun,andthattheotherguidesshouldawaitmeatGrindelwald.Thegirls,inthemeantime,wouldgoonmakingthebed,andbesalutedeverynowandthen,forsomemarkofstupidity,withallsortsofappellations.Thisinstincthasresisted,andwill,letushope,continuetoresist,theinfluenceofinjuriousinstitutionsfoundedexclusivelyuponindividualselfishnessandtherightofthestronghand.Laborde,oneoftheconspirators,cametoinformmethatanothergreatkabarwastobeheldinthecourt,andthatweweresummonedtobepresent.Butforthefaintmurmurcausedeitherbythefallingofthewaterorthewindamongthetrees,theplacewassilent,anditwasalmostdevoidofanimallife.Butintheeighteenthcenturythecontentioncametoanend,atleastsofaraspolitical[Pg101]observerscandetermine,forages,andundertheruleoftheRussianCzar,theCrimeahaslongenjoyedaprofoundtranquillity.[6]"Sothat,"asMr.Kinglakeputsit,"thepeninsulawhichdividestheEuxinefromtheSeaofAzovwasanalmostforgottenland,lyingoutofthechiefpathsofmerchantsandtravellers,andfarawayfromallthecapitalcitiesofChristendom.MadamedeHellisnotdisposedtoendorsethereputationforbeautywhichsomanywritershaveagreedinbestowingupontheCircassianwomen.NoonehasshownajusterappreciationofthatstrangeEasterninstitution,theharem,thoughitisnoeasythingtoformaclearandimpartialjudgmentuponasystemsoalientoWesternideasandrevoltingtoChristianmorality.ItprovedtobethefarthestlimitoftheAfricanexplorationsofourheroine.Oneoftheofficersreceivedus,andassigned[Pg267]usplacesinfrontofthejudges.Becauseafterthemarriage-feastisover,husbandandwifehaveforgottentobeasagreeabletooneanotherastheywerebeforeit.ThejourneytoBongowasrenderedtediousand[Pg209]troublesomebytherains.Theyassaultedeachotherincessantly;besideswhich,theythrewtheirmissilesuptothewindowsandbalconies,andreceivedothersinreturn.Whilethusengaged,shecontributedseveralarticlesontheEasttothePresseandnumerousotherjournals.Akeensensationofcoldandofintolerableitchingsinthehandsandfaceawakensme;dayhasdawned,andthemarshesliebeforemeinalltheirsplendidcolouring,butIhavepaiddearlyformyimprudence;everypartofmyfacewhichmymasktouchedinthepositioninwhichIfellasleephasbeenstungathousandtimesthroughthemeshesofhairbythousandsofproboscesandsuckersathirstformy[Pg300]blood—foreheadandchestandchinaregrotesquelyswollen.Asawritershescarcelycallsforcriticism:shewriteswithfluencyandaccuracy,butneverwarmsupintoeloquence,andherreflectionsarenotlesscommonplacethanherstyle.vonHumboldt,that"feverofstudy,"thatinsatiableardour,which,ifnotgenius,iscloselyakintoit.OnenteringJerusalemshegavethereinstoherimagination,andsetherselftoworkononeofthosedelightfulletterswhich[Pg172]afterwardsformedthebasisofacompletenarrativeofherEasterntour.Andasinthosedays,whichwerelongbeforetheintroductionofMr.Cook's"personallyconductedtours,"touristswerefew,thepresenceofa"giaour"intheMohammedanquarterwasanextraordinaryevent.HerhusbandwasattackedbyoneofthemalariousfeversoftheDanube,andinordertorecoverhishealthwascompelledtothrowuphisengagementandreturntoFrance,aftersomeyearsofalmostconstanttravelandexploration.Asshegrewolder,andgrewstrongerbothinmindandbody,shegrewbolder;aspirationgavewaytoself-satisfiedconviction.HerloveoffreedomandherhumanitywererewardedbybanishmentfromtheterritoriesoftheChurch.Wehadnotreachedtheothersidebeforeweweremetbyourporterswiththesedan-chair;andwearrivedsingingandcheeringatGrindelwald,whereeverybodyeyeduswithasmuchwonderasifwehadrisenfromthedead.Finally,thepyramidiscrownedbyagreatgildedball."ThetravellersherequittedtheirEnglishhorses,andmountedthefrightfulChinesesteedswhichcarryonthepostalservice.Ifthesecondcopyisalsodefective,youmaydemandarefundinwritingwithoutfurtheropportunitiestofixtheproblem.ItisneithermodernizednorRussianized.IsummonedPierre,andaskedhimifIcouldbyanymeansbeconveyedasfarasthevalley.Itisbutjust,however,tocommendthehonestywithwhichsheavowedheranti-slaveryopinions,[Pg408]whichcouldnotthenbeenunciatedwithoutexcitingtheangerevenofthepeopleoftheNorth.Hereandthereapatchlookednotunlikethecontentsofacaldron,whichhadbeen[Pg362]petrifiedintheveryactofboiling;elsewheretheiridescentlavahadcongealedintowave-likeridges,orhugecoilsofrope,closelytwistedtogether.Itsfisheriesarevaluable.Indeed,alltheotherwomen,mostlyhard-working,hard-featuredmatrons,prematurelyaged,tooknomorepartinthevisitthanthechorusofaGreekplay,alwaysexceptingtheoldluduna,orheadmanofthevillage,whocameasescort,andinchargeofthewholeparty.ButIwasindustriousenoughandpatientenoughtotriumphoverallsuchdifficulties,andthoughthestudyoflanguagesisfarfrombeingpopularintheLatincountries,Ididnotceasetopursueituntiltheepochofmymarriage.Fromthesidesofblackgranitehungpendenticicles,sometimesslenderandisolated,sometimesgroupedinfancifulclusters.ItborenoresemblancetoanEnglishoraFrenchchamber,and,independentofitsfurniture,wasscarcelybetterthanacommonpeasant's.Fairbanks,AK,99712.,butitsvolunteersandemployeesarescatteredthroughoutnumerouslocations.Letusgowithheronavisittothetwocraters,theoldandthenew.Ontheboattheropesrattledthroughthepulleysandtheironchainsofthecapstans,whilethemasterdirectedthemovementsofhiscrewbysharpblastsonhiswhistle—Icontinuedtosleep;infine,byanordinaryeffectofthe[Pg298]profoundestsleep,Iawakenedonlywhensilencesucceededtothisuproar."Carlylehasaremarktotheeffectthatfromthewayinwhichaman,ofsomewidethingthathehaswitnessed,willconstructanarrative,whatkindofpictureanddelineationhewillgiveofit,isthebestmeasurewecangetoftheman'sintellect.[19]Certainlyfromarecordoftravelonecanformatolerablycorrectestimateofthecharacter,disposition,andfacultiesofthetraveller.Theyroseattheentranceoftheirvisitors,andsalutedthemwithmuchgrace;then,motioningthemtobeseated,themothersatdownintheTurkishfashiononherdivan,whileherdaughterreclinedagainstthecouchonwhichthestrangershadtakentheirplaces.Behindthevillalies,somewhathigherupthemountain,alittlevillageofwhite-washed,small,den-likehouses,andayetwhiterchurch;andstillhigherupthanthevillage,asquaretower—Pyrgos—inthestyleoftheMiddleAges."WhatWeSawinAustralia"isthejournaloftwosisters,FlorenceandRosamondHill,who,without[Pg453]servantsorescort,accomplishedthevoyagetothegreatisland-continent;visitedAdelaide,Melbourne,andSydney,withalltheremarkableplacesinthevicinityofeach;madeatriptoTasmania,andreturnedhomebywayofBombay,Egypt,andItaly.ButinhercostumethetwoarticlesthatmostsurprisedMadamedeHellwereanembroideredcambrichandkerchiefandapairofblackmittens,significantproofsthattheproductsoftheFrenchloomfoundtheirwayeventothetoiletofaKalmuklady.Gondokoro,longregardedastheneplusultraoftheNileValley,wasreachedonthe30thofSeptember.Iftheirsteedswereyoung,andunaccustomedtosuchperilousexploits,theywouldgallopthemuptothebrinkoftheravine,covertheheadwiththeirbourkas,[Pg88]andthendash,almostalwayswithoutmishap,downprecipicesfromtwentytofiftyfeetindepth.Beyondliesthedockyard,andthedock,whichisofgreatextent;andtothewestmaybeseenArtilleryBay.F.Amongherlatestworks,whichpresentabundantevidenceoftheclearnessandpracticalcharacterofherintellect,wemaymentionatreatiseon"TheFactoryControversy,"1853;a"HistoryoftheAmericanCompromise,"1856;apicturesquely-written[Pg417]historicalsketchof"BritishRuleinIndia;"also,"EnglandandherSoldiers;""Health,Handicraft,andHusbandry;"and"HouseholdEducation."Asyearspassedbyherinfirmitiesincreased,butsheretainedherforceandfreshnessofintellectalmosttothelast.Asforthecharacters,theyarenotverystronglyindividualized;but,ontheotherhand,thedescriptionsareclearandforcible,whiletheinterestoftheplotisdeepandwholesome.TheShillooks,asisthecasewithotherandmorecivilizedpeoples,endeavourtobeguileeverystrangerintoashareintheirhostilities;andtheymadegreateffortstoinduceMissTinnétoassistthemagainstthatterribleMohammedChu,whohadbutjustshownsuchaloyalanxietytoproclaimherQueenoftheSoudan.Eventuallyheallowedthemtoleaveontheirfurnishinghimwiththeiraddress.Somevotedforourpublicexecutioninthemarket-place;othersforanattackbynightonourhouse;others,again,thatweshouldbeinvitedtoabanquet,atwhichwemighteitherbepoisoned,or,onagivensignal,massacred.Aboveittowersaruinedcastle,whencetheGenoese,intheirdaysofsupremacy,scannedwithvulture-gazethesweepofsea,preparedto[Pg103]pounceuponanyhaplessvesselwind-drivenintothesewaters.Theoldwoman,herguide'smother,threwseveralhandfulsofsmallgrainandalargequantityof[Pg244]onionsintoapanfullofwatertosoften.Fortherest,sheisashrewdobserver;hasaconsiderableinsightintohumannature,especiallyonits"seamyside";andifahardhitter,generallykeepshergoodtemper,anddoesnotresentafairstrokefromanantagonist.IthasbeenhintedthatshedreamedofbeingunitedinanuptialunionwithherSaviour,revivingtheoldillusionofSt.CatherineofSiéna.Yettherewasacertainairofcoldnessandimpassivenessaboutthem,andnotoncedidtheprincesssmile,untilalongcurtainaccidentallyfell,andshutheroutforamomentfromherguests.WhenIappeartoberestingmyself,Iamreallymakingthosepatientinvestigations,indispensabletoallwhowouldconscientiouslystudyacountry."AfterresidingforsomeyearsinRussia,shefelttheneedoflivingthenceforwardinafreeratmosphere,andbetookherselftoSwitzerland.Itisfreefrommist,whyshouldwenotreachitssummit?'Atthesewordstheastonishmentwasgeneral,andeverybodyturnedtowardsthepeakIhadnamed.This,whenbrought,wasanewtrialforthemaids.Throughthebluegloomofapine-forestshegallantlymadeherway,charmedbythemagicofthescenerythatopenedoutbeforeher.Aphilosopherfirst,apoetafter,andsometimesapainter,suchisFrederikaBremer.Theyweredead,andtheirbodiesalreadycold.IfthewomenofFrance,shesays,remaintruetotheirvocation,theywilleventuallycombatwithsuccesstheever-increasingpartialityoftheircompatriotsforthepositive,andwillpreventeachsalonfrombecoming,liketheboulevardoftheCaféTortoni,apetiteBourse.Initspresentstateitsproportionscannotbeobtained;butSirG.Hersonsstoodnolongerinneedofhersupport;herhusbandwasseparatedfromherandwaslivinginretirementatLemberg;hermeans,thoughmoderate,werenotinadequatetothefulfilmentoftheprojectsshehadinview."Thestreetsswarmedwithharlequins,punchinellos,andjesters,wholeapedabout,talkingtopeopleinthecarriagesandonfoot,invitingtodrink,pretendingthemselvestobeintoxicated,andspillingthebeerorwaterontherighthandandleft;crowdsofcastanet-playersanddancers,ineveryvarietyoflaughable,grotesque,andmostfrequentlytatterdemalioncostume,beatingdrums,andsoon—makingahorribledin.Ataninn,inStavropol,MadamedeHellagainfellinwiththeCircassianandhismysteriouscharge,butthelatterwasveiledfromheadtofoot[Pg94]"Theyoungmountaineer,"shesays,"preparedadivanwithcushionsandpillowsverylikeourown,and,afewmomentsafterwards,returned,carryinginhisarmsawomancompletelyshroudedinherveil;heplacedherverydelicatelyuponthedivan,andseatedhimselfbyhersidewitheverymarkoftenderness.Ateverystepthetownsfolk,withindifferentbearing,andarmedwithafantoprotecttheirwanandpowderedcomplexion,jostleagainsttherobustcopper-colouredcountrypeople,whosefeetarethrustintosandals,andtheirheadscoveredwithlargestrawhats.ThencesheascendedthemajesticbutmuddyMississippitoNapoleon,andtheArkansastoFortSmith.Therouteofourtravellers,afterquittingPiatigorsk,layalongthebroaddeepvalleyofthePodKouwa,which,ontheright,isboundedbyrockspiledoneuponanother,likebillowssuddenlypetrified,andbearing[Pg86]witnesstosomegreatupheavalinthepast;ontheleft,tieraftertierofrichlywoodedmountainsrisegraduallytothemajesticchainoftheKazbek.Pommierremarks,thislongexcursioninacountrywhichoffersnofacilitiestotravellers,andwhereonemustalwaysbeonhorseback,couldnotbeaccomplishedwithoutdisplayingacourageunexampled,anheroicperseverance,andaphysicalandmoralstrengthequaltoeverytrial.WehaveourselveslistenedtoastorminaHighlandglen—thewindsweepingdowntheruggeddeclivitieswithterribleimpetuosity,andthethunder-pealsreverberatingfrompeaktopeak,whiletheclouds"FrommanyahorridriftabortivepouredFiercerainwithlightningmixed,waterwithfire,"untilthesenseofaneerieandmysteriousPresencehasforceditselfuponourmind,andwehavebeenabletounderstandtheemotionsinwhichoriginatedthevisionsofwraithandphantomofthebardsofold."Ismile,"shesaysinoneofherletters,"whenIthinkofthosewho,knowingmeonlythroughmyvoyages,imaginethatImustbemorelikeamanthanawoman!Thosewhoexpecttoseemeaboutsixfeethigh,ofbolddemeanour,andwithpistolinmybelt,willfindmeawomanaspeaceableandasreservedasmostofthosewhohaveneversetfootoutsidetheirnativevillage."[Pg240]AtBenaresshesawthebazaars,andthetemples,andthepalaces;thebathingintheGanges,theburningofthedeadonthebankofthesacredriver,andanautchniordanceofnautches;butherattentionwaschieflydrawntothemiserablefanaticismofthefakeers,whorevelledinself-imposedtortures.Anensemblesostrange,somarvellous,theartist'sbrushisunabletoreproduce,andthewriter'swordsfailadequatelytodescribe![Pg131]"Thisregion,whereeverythingiscoldandinert,hasbeenrepresented,hasitnot?MissMartineauwasresolvedtomakeherlaughbeforeshewentaway,andatlengthshedidsomewhatrelax—smiling,andinamomentgrowinggrave;butafterawhileshereallyandtrulylaughed,andwhenthewholeharemwasshowntothevisitors,sheslippedherbareanddyedfeetintoherpattens,inlaidwithmother-of-pearl,andjoinedtheminthecourts,nestlingtothem,andapparentlylosingthesenseofhernewpositionforatime;buttherewaslessofthegaietyofachildaboutherthanintheelderlywidows.ItisuselesstoaskhimtobeboundbythesedentaryhabitsoftheChinese,tobuildfixedhabitations,andcultivatethesoil.Itisawfulinitsgrandeur,terribleinitssublimity,likeMilton'sSatan.Behindherweregatherednephews,nieces,andotherrelatives,andthedignitariesandgrandeesofthekingdom.Thenextcañadathatwecrossedwaschokedupwiththecarcassesoftheunfortunatecreatureswhohadstruggledthusfarforalastdrink,andhadthennothadsufficientstrengthlefttoextricatethemselvesfromthewater.Onallsides,nearandafaroff,thereisarushingandroaringandfoaming,ontherighthandandontheleft,aboveme,belowme,andbefore,outofahundredhiddenfountains,andevenwilderbesidemerushesontheLutschine,withstillincreasingwaters.HerreceptionbytheQueenwasnotwithoutinterest.Theotherendtaperstoapoint.Throughouttheiridleexistence,theswinearereverentiallycherishedandliberallyfed;noristhecruelknifepermittedtocutshortthethreadoftheirdestiny.Thetravellerswerecrossingarecentlyreapedcorn-field,whenhalf-a-dozenKurds,armedwithstoutcudgels,sprangoutfromtheirhiding-placeamongthesheaves,and,seizingthebridles,pouredoutavolleyofmingledoathsandmenaces.Itwaseveningwhentheyarrived,andsilencereignedinthepalace.Thedesertisliketheocean:thehumaneyeplungesintotheinfinite,andeverythingspeaksofGod.Theroofandthescreens,whichformthesides,areallmadeofahandsomedark-polishedwoodresemblingwalnut.TwodayslatertheycrossedthegreatriverSabuponraftsofinflatedskins,fastenedtogetherwithpoles,andcoveredwithreeds,canes,andplanks.Military,mountedandonfoot,werepostedatthecornersofallthestreets,aswellasinthesquare.ShemadetheacquaintanceofChanningandEmerson;shewentfromtowntotown,andvillagetovillage;sheinvestigatedthecharacterandinfluenceofAmericaninstitutions;shegavealivelyconsiderationtothegreatmoralandpoliticalquestionswhichwerethenstirringtheAmericanmind.Thecoldwinds,[Pg34]blowingfromthefrozenheights,scarcelycooledourforeheads.OppositethecathedralistheChurchofSt.Nicholas,nowusedasagranary.Theyhadcaughtsightofahunter,glidingphantom-likealongthesteepascentoftheMittelegi,likeaswallowlostinspace.Behindthisweretwomoreofsilk,readyathand,ifneeded.Watchingflocksandherds,theyusedtoremainontheknollsverystillforlonghourstogether,andwhentheymoved,theystrodeoverthehillsintheirslow-flowingrobeswithsomethingoftheforlornmajestyofpeasantsdescendedfromwarriors."[7]IntothissecludedandremotepeninsulaMadamedeHellandherhusbandcarriedtheirrarepowersofobservationanddescription.Shewasdetainedallnight;butthenextmorning,havingfetchedherportmanteau,theyexaminedherpassport,andwerethengoodenoughtodismissher,withoutofferinganyapology,however,fortheirshamefultreatmentofher.Iimmediatelyarose,inspiteoftheprotestationsofmyChinesehostesses,andtookaseatinthecourtyardunderthegalleries.Theirhesitationsurprisedme.TheseinterestingobjectswereaccumulatedbyoneofthelastoftheKhans,whowouldshuthimselfupeverydayinthisroominordertoadmirethem.Theyalsoeatostrichflesh,asanexceptionalbonnebouche,andbirds'eggs,andfish,whichthewomencatch.Sheandherhusband,SirCharlesMorgan,visitedFrancein1815,andcompoundedabookuponit,which,asFrancehadbeenforsomanyyearsshutagainstEnglishtourists,producedaconsiderablesensation,andwaseagerlyread."ThePresident'sDaughter,""Nina,""TheNeighbours,""TheHome,"and"StrifeandPeace;"allthesebooksaremarkedbythesamegeneralcharacteristics:entirepurityoftone,warmthoffeeling,clearnessofjudgment,insightintohumannature,genialhumour,asharpperceptionofsocialaspects,astrong,clearstyle,andunusuallyvividdescriptivepowers.ThroughtheSuezCanaltheSunbeampassedintotheMediterranean,"whoseshoresareempires,"touchingatMaltaandat"theRock,"whichtheenterpriseofSirGeorgeRorkegave,andthepatientcourageofGeneralEliottpreserved,toEngland.Wehope—wedesire—mysistersandI—nothingelsethantobeabletodosomelittlegoodwhilewearewanderinghereonearth,andaccordingtothepowerthatisgiventoustoworkforthegoodofothers,andliveourselvesinpeaceandharmony;and[Pg140]perhapsoursaddenedyouth,ifithavedeprivedusofsomeoftheenjoymentsoflife,mayinacertainmeasurehaveledourmindstohigheraspirations,andtoastrongerdesireforrealusefulness."Herliterarycareerhadbegunthreeyearsbeforethisepoch.Thecontentsofthebasinweresippedonceortwiceandsentaway;or,ifsheateasmallbitofdriedtoast,itwasconsideredbadlymade,andafreshpiecewasordered,perhapsnottobetouched."Inwhatfollowswearealmostinclinedtosuspectadegreeofexaggeration.Thetitlewhichhadbeenflashedbeforehimproducedonhiscommonplacemindathousandtimestheeffectthatwouldhavebeenproducedbytheknowledgethat,plainlittlemiddle-classdameasshewas,thehumbleSwedishladywasinfinitelymorecelebratedthanthree-fourthsoftheprincessesofEurope.Iwasprofoundlyhumiliated,andonlyweightyreasonspreventedmefromresumingmywoman'sdress.ThethreeGothicportalsareamongthefinestIhaveeverseen.deHellmadevigorouspreparationsduringthewinterof1838,andhavingobtainedfromCountVorontzov,thegovernorofNewRussia,stronglettersofrecommendationtothegovernorsandofficialsoftheprovinceshewouldhavetotraverse,heandhiswifestartedinthemiddleofMay,1839,accompaniedbyaCossack,andanexcellent[Pg72]dragoman,whospokeallthedialectscurrentinSouthernRussia.Removefromherthemasksheispleasedtoassumebeforethepublic,andshestandsrevealedasMadameBiard,thewifeofthegreathumoristicpainter,whose"SequelofaMasquerade,""FamilyConcert,""CombatwithPolarBears,"andotherpictures,arenotlesshighlyesteemedbyEnglishthanbyFrenchconnoisseurs.Thereaderatoncediscoversthatheisdealingwithawriterwhomakesnoattempttodeceive,whoneitherdiminishesnorexaggerates,noradaptsherfactstopreconceivedopinions.Onthe7thofJuly,thesteamer,heavilyladenandtowingtwoboats,continueditscourseuptheriver.Theperformancelastedforsomeconsiderabletime,andMadamedeHellhadampleopportunityofscrutinizingtheprincess,andofcomingtotheconclusionthatherhighreputationforbeautywasnotundeserved.Hetreatedherharshly,andhewastedthefortuneshebroughthim.Rumourspreadallkindsofglowingreportsaboutthemistressofitsmotleycrew,Europeans,negroes,andstatelyNubians.Itisimpossiblenottoseeandfeelthatherswasawastedlife.AccustomedtoseethemostgracefulwomenoftheEastwiththeirtchibouques,hewasneithersurprisednorshockedbythegracious,nonchalantattitude,orthelightwreathsofperfumedsmokeissuingfromLadyHester'sfinelycurvedlips,interruptingtheconversationwithoutchillingit.Myguidesexclaimed,'Ah,itisfromtheheightoftheheavensthatwebeholdourwives!'Andwecontinuedourascent,leavingbeneathusthecloudsfloatingeverywherelikegreyscarves.Threeyoungpeopleinturnexhibittothepasser-byhisdifferentwares,extollingtheirquality,andmakingknowntheirprices.ThePrincessdeBelgiojosotellsusthatshehas[Pg58]seenhideous,decrepit,andinfirmwomentenderlycaredforandadoredbyhandsomeoldmen,straightasthemountainpine,withbeardsilveredbutlongandthick,andeyesbright,clear,andserene.In1838shepublishedher"ViennaandtheAustrians,"inwhichheroldantipathiesandcausticitiesreappeared;andin1843,a"VisittoItaly,"which[Pg401]wasfarfrombeingasuccess.Acrosstheroomwashungadirtyredcottoncurtain,tokeepoffthewindwhenthedooropened.HerdescriptionsofTahiti,theEdenofthePacific,arenotlessglowingthanthoseofherpredecessors,fromWallisandBougainvilledownto"theEarlandtheDoctor."Theyarefullofwarm,richcolour,asmighthavebeenexpectedfromonewhoisanartistaswellasanauthor,andsetbeforeussuchasuccessionofvividandenchantinglandscapesashardlyanyotherportionofthiswide,wideworldcanparallel;forwiththeboldmajestyofAlpinepeaksiscombinedtheluxuriantgraceoftropicalforests,andvalleysasbeautifulasthatofTempeopenoutuponaboundlessoceanasblueastheskyitglasses.TherelationsoftheNorthtotheSouth,oftheslave-holdertothenegro,oroftheDemocraticpartytotheRepublican,[Pg154]mayundergo,intwentyorthirtyyearsacompletetransformation;butNiagarastillpoursitsfloodofwatersintotheSt.Lawrence,andleaguesuponleaguesofgrassysavannahsarestilluntroddenbythefootofman.deLamartine,"Iweretoofferanopinion,Ishouldrathersayitwasavoluntaryandstudiedmadness,whichknewwhatitwasabout,andhaditsownreasonsforposingasmadness.AstheyadvancedtheycameintooccasionalcontactwiththePatagonians,andherobservationsoftheirphysicalcharacterareimportantandvaluableinrelationtothemarvellousaccountswhichwefindintheoldvoyagers.Checkingmewithaverygracefulgesture,shesaideagerly,'Pastoy!Pastoy!'(Stay,stay!)andclappedherhandsseveraltimes.OnonesidethehighridgeoftheMontBrabant,whichislinkedtothemainlandonlybyanarrowneckofearth,stretchesfaroutintotheshiningsea;nearathandrisesthePitoudelaRivièreNoire,theloftiestsummitintheisland—2,564feet.Weoftenmadeuseoftheladder.TheBaronsettleduponheraconsiderableestate,and,inaddition,ahandsomeincome.Mymindhadseldomenjoyedacalmsocomplete.But[Pg272]MadamedeBourboulondidnotconfineherselftosocialpleasures;herheartandhandwereeverreadyforcharitablelabours,andtheChinesepoorhadampleoccasiontoacknowledgeherbeneficence."Sometimes,"shesays,"IthinkthatallIhaveseenmustbeonlyalongvision,andthattoosoonIshallawakentothecoldreality;theflowers,thefruit,thecolourswornbyeveryone,thewholesceneanditssurroundings,seemalmosttoofairy-liketohaveanactualexistence."Humannatureis,ofcourse,thesameeverywhere:viceandsorrowprevailatTahitiasinthereekingslumsandlanesofgreatcities.Theroarofthethunder,repeatedbyeveryechoincavernandravine,mingledwiththegroaningandjarringofthegreattrees,withtheloudgustsofthefuriouswind,withallthosemysteriousvoicesofthetempestwhichcomeweknownotwhence,butdeeplystirtheheart,andhavesopotentaharmonyandsuchasublimityandforceofsoundthattheleastsuperstitiousmindinvoluntarilyawaitssomesupernaturalmanifestation,somemessagefromtheotherworld.Theirhearts,moreover,werewonbyherevidentsympathywiththeirdown-troddenandsufferingrace.Andasthenightadvancesandthedarknessincreases,awonderfulphantasmagoriaofcolourinveststhefierylake—jetblackmergessuddenlyintopalestgrey;thedeepestmaroonchanges,throughcherryandscarlet,intotheexquisitesthuesofpinkandblueandviolet;therichestbrownpales,throughorangeandyellow,intoadelicatestraw.Aroundmehustledfragmentsofthearchitectureofallperiodsandeverystyle:campaniles,columns,minarets,ogives,pyramids,turrets,cupolas,crenelations,volutes,arcades,façades,colossalfoundations,sculpturesasdelicateasthosewhichfestoontheshapelypillarsofourcathedrals—allweremassedtogetherandconfusedinacommondisaster.Inthatcreasehereposed,whilefaroverhisheadextendedthevastpent-houseofthejaw;andabovethat,thedressedhaironeithersidetheface—eachbunchamassofstonewhichmightcrushadwelling-house.Bohrentheyounger,whowasoneofourportersandtheyoungestofthecompany,continuedhismerrysong.Shewentto"anoutlandishplacesomanymilesaway"—asherfriendscalledit—"preciselybecauseitwasanoutlandishplaceandsofaraway."Sheadds:"Palledforthemomentwithcivilizationanditssurroundings,IwantedtoescapesomewherewhereImightbeasfarremovedfromthemaspossible.Whenshehadrecoveredherself,sheturnedtoMadamedeHell,andbadeherobservehowthesealofsorrowandforgetfulnesswassetuponeverything.Twosticksarefixedintheground,onlyafewinchesapart,andfromadistanceofthirtyorfortyyardstheplayerseekstothrowastone—theuru—betweenthem;theurubeingcircularinshape,threeorfourinchesindiameter,andaninchinthickness,exceptatthemiddle,whereitisthicker.[34][Pg368]WepassontoJapan,andaccompanyLadyBrasseytoaJapanesedinnerinaJapanesetea-house.Hehadalmostgainedit,andhadflungtheropetothecrewofthenearestboat,whenthestrengthofthecurrentoverpoweredhim,andhesank!Afterawhilehissurvivingcomradesrecoveredthebravefellow'sbody,andgaveithonourableburialinthenativefashionatthefootofapatriarchaltree,onthetrunkofwhichwascutamemorialinscription.VisitorstoMarathon,insearchofmementoes,generallylookforthearrowsthataresometimesfoundupontheshore;butMissBremer,asamoreappropriatesouvenir,carriedawayabouquetofwheatearsandwildeverlastings.Ifonecomplainedthathislimbswerestiff,theothersimmediatelycriedoutthathewasasdelicateasawoman,andthatwehadnocauseofcomplaintwhilesojourninginapalacegranderthankings'palaces.Enteringtheprincipalcourtyoufindyourselfintheshadeoffloweringlilacsandtallpoplars,andonyourearfallsthemurmurofafountain,whichsingsitsmonotonoussongbeneaththewillows.Theyconfessed,withthefrankcordialitypeculiartothesebravemountaineers,thattheirexperiencewouldbeofnoserviceintheexpeditionIwasundertaking,astheyhadneverattemptedanyonelikeit.Somethingtoldme,moreover,thatourstarswerefriendly,andthatoursympathieswouldproveabondofunion.Thence,inthefollowingyear,theyrepairedtoMoldavia—acountrywhichwasjustbeginningtorevivefromthebarbarismanddesolationinwhichtheTurkishrulehadsolongcondemnedittolinger.MadamedeHellseemsinclinedtothinkthatsomesuperstitiousnotionsareconnectedwithit,fromthedifficultysheexperiencedinprocuringaspecimen.Butinsuchcases,lookssupplythedeficienciesofspeech,andminemusthaveexpressedtheadmirationIfelt.Furthertothewest,anotherconsiderablechaindescendedseaward;thatwasCarmel.Everypagebearsthestampofasympatheticintelligence.Thepersonorentitythatprovidedyouwiththedefectiveworkmayelecttoprovideareplacementcopyinlieuofarefund.Tothisexampleofthecompleteconditionofmoral[Pg174]dependencetowhicheventhewivesofsheikhsaredegraded,MissBremeraddsanotherandnotlesscharacteristicfact.Therewasnotoilettable;andwhenshewashedherself,thecopperbasin[Pg333]washeldbeforeherasshesatupinbed.MissMartineauwentuptheNiletoPhilæ;sheafterwardscrossedthedeserttotheRedSea,landedinArabia,andascendedMountsSinaiand[Pg410]Horeb;and,finally,exploredaportionoftheshoresandislandsoftheMediterranean.Seeparagraph1.Ebelow.Norweretheattitudesandmovementsofhercompanionsomuchthoseofthedanceasofthepantomime.IneachpageofherworkuponTurkeywemeetwithcalmstatementsofestablishedfactswhichoverthrowthespeculationsandfanciestoooftenfoundinworksofgreatpopularityfromthepenofdistinguishedwriters."'Come,yourHighness,'hesays,'maketheoraclespeak.'"Andtheyoungprincessreadsofftheinscriptionfluently,settingdownM.1.C.TheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation("theFoundation"orPGLAF),ownsacompilationcopyrightinthecollectionofProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworks.[Pg181]"ButIhavenotyetmentionedtheFountainofBeauty,inthevalleyofMelanès,thefountainofitsfertility—theFleurio,whichflowsinmanysmallstreamsthroughthegardens,andsuppliesuswiththemostgloriouswater....Theinhabitants,physicallyspeaking,arenotunworthyoftheirisland-home;atall,robust,andwell-knitrace,theywouldbecomelybutfortheircustomofflatteningthenoseassoonasthechildisborn.Eachwave,asitapproached,appearedasifitmustoverwhelmus,insteadofwhichitrushedgrandlyby,rollingandshakingusfromstemtostern,andsendingfountainsofsprayonboard.Meantime,theprogressofthecaravanwasconsiderable,andatnightfalltentswerepitchedontheriver-bank,andfireslighted.YOUAGREETHATTHEFOUNDATION,THETRADEMARKOWNER,ANDANYDISTRIBUTORUNDERTHISAGREEMENTWILLNOTBELIABLETOYOUFORACTUAL,DIRECT,INDIRECT,CONSEQUENTIAL,PUNITIVEORINCIDENTALDAMAGESEVENIFYOUGIVENOTICEOFTHEPOSSIBILITYOFSUCHDAMAGE.Theseplainsareinhabitedbyvariousraces—theMagyars,whoarethedominantpeople;theWallachs,whodwellintheeasternmostdistricts;theGermans,Saxons,andShecklers.TheGermanictonguesterrifiedmeatfirst,thepeoplesofPelasgicoriginhavingnotasteforthoseidioms.Shewasperfectlyself-possessed,andonlysaidquietly,"Holdon,CaptainLecky,holdon!"towhichhereplied,"Allright."Iaskedherafterwardsifshethoughtshewasgoingoverboard,andsheanswered,"Ididnotthinkatall,mamma,butfeltsureweweregone."CaptainLecky,longaccustomedtoverylargeships,hadnotintheleastrealizedhownearweweretothewaterinourlittlevessel,andwasproportionatelytakenbysurprise.Now-a-daysitexcitesbutlittlecommentTheinterestexcitedbyLadyFlorenceDixie'sbook,"AcrossPatagonia,"wasthelegitimateinterestinspiredbyherfreshandlivelydescriptionof"unexploredanduntroddenground,"andnottheidlecuriositywhichasensationalachievementsometimesexcites.AndtoSingaporebelongsthecustard-apple,whichisassavouryasitscompoundnameimplies.ThickSoup—ofEggs,Fish,Mushrooms,andSpinach;GrilledFish.Hehadsentthemalsoanescort,andhisownaide-de-camp,M.TheinertiaoftheEastirritatesastrongbrainalmosttomadness.Hereandtherethewindsoughsthroughmassesoftallreedsandaquaticplants;atotherpointsthewatersoverflowtheirboundsforsometwoorthreethousandyards,creatingoneachsideanimpassableswamp."Iwasseatedinacorner,"shesays,"wrappedupinmycoverings;Iliftthewindow-sashofoneofthedoors;theairiscloseandwarm,thenightdark;blackclouds,chargedwithelectricity,rollaboveme,andthewindbringstomethemarsh-odoursacridandyetflat....Whensherecoveredconsciousness,theassassinhaddisappeared.AltogethershewasfarmorebeautifulthanIhadimagined.Aswepassedeachgaveawarningyelp,shookitstail,and,withaludicrousflourishofhishindlegs,divedintoitshole."Poorwoman,"heremarked,passingthebackofhishandoverhiseyes,"herblindnessrendersherveryunhappy.Thefishmarketwasfulloffinnymonstersofthedeep,allnewandstrangetous,whoseoddBraziliannameswouldconveytoastrangerbutlittleideaofthefishthemselves.ThechiefarchæologicalcuriositiesherearethetombsoftheoldTongankings,cyclopeanmonumentsbuiltupofhugevolcanicblocks,whichseemtohavebeenbroughtfromtheWallisgroupofislandsinopencanoes,anderectedontheirpresentsitewithanimmenseexpenditureofhumanlabour.Afterbreakfastthepartyresumedtheirascentofthemountain,andinduetimearrivedatthe"Notch"—aliteralgateofrock—whentheyfoundthemselvesontheknife-likeridgeorbackboneofLong'sPeak,onlyafewfeetwide,coveredwithhugeboulders,andontheothersideshelvinginasnow-patchedprecipiceof3,000feettoapicturesquehollow,brightenedbyanemeraldlake.SheforgotthattheyinheriteditfromtheEnglishPuritans.Behindus,closeathand,wasarowofpoststowhichwerefixedcross-beamsofwood,andineachcagewere[Pg275]death'sheads,whichstaredatmewithfixed,wide-openeyes,theirjawsdislocatedwithfrightfulgrimaces,theirteethsetconvulsivelybytheagonyofthelastmoment,andthebloodrollingdropbydropfromtheirfreshlyseverednecks!"Inasecondwehadspurredourhorsestothegalloptogetoutofsightofthishideouscharnel-house,ofwhichIlongcontinuedtothinkinmysleeplessnights.MadamedeHellandherhusbandspentthewinteratOdessa;andinthefollowingMaydepartedonavisittotheCrimea,onboardabrigbelongingtotheconsuloftheNetherlands.Itisratherapuzzlehowshecouldenjoyinthisfullpanoplyanysoundorrefreshingrepose.Cortambert'sopinion,"oneofthemostpronouncedcharacteristicsoftheboastfulandchildishgeniusoftheOrientals.MadamedeHellwasafterwardsentertainedwithaspecimenofKalmukhorsemanship.Thelips,beautifullyarchedandclosingoverpearlyteeth;thecountenance,expressiveofgreatsweetness;theskin,ofabrownishtint,butexquisitelydelicate,wouldentitlehertobeconsideredaveryhandsomewoman,eveninFrance,iftheoutlineofherfaceandthearrangementofherfeatures—the[Pg76]obliqueeyes,theprominentcheek-bones—hadbeenlesspronouncedlyKalmuk.Attheirlaboriousdays,however,thewomenneverrepine;theyareaccustomedtotheburden,andbearitcheerfully;buttheyageveryearly,andafterafewyearsofwedlock,notonlylosetheirgoodlooks,butacquireacoarsenessoffeatureandarobustnessoffigurewhichmakeitexceedinglydifficulttodistinguishthemfrommen.ShefurnishedhervillaintheOrientalstyle;wouldhavenonebutArabsandnegroestowaituponher,and,finally,sheadoptedtheArabdress.Closetous,inthecavernedsideofthepeak,wassnowthat,owingtoitsposition,iseternal.Theprincess'schieftitlestodistinctionareasavigorouswriterandaliberalthinker;shedidnotqualifyherselfforaplaceamonggreatfemaletravellersuntilunhappyeventsexiledherfromhercountry.CavourseemedwellpleasedtolearnthateveninremoteSwedentheaffairsofPiedmontwereasubjectofgeneralinterest,andthathisownwordsandactionswereattentivelystudied.Wehavealludedtoherfondnessforhistory.Whodoesnotrememberthepainfulbeautyofthatgrandsaddrama,inwhichthevengefulcriesoftheFuriesseemtoechoalongthiswildanddesertshore?Amidstallthiswealthoffood-producingvegetation,Isometimeslookedinvainforanytreesthatweremerelyornamental;andliterallytherewereonlytheyellowhibiscus,whichyieldsausefulfibre,andthecandle-nut,coveredwithclustersofwhiteblossoms,somewhatresemblingwhitelilac,andbearingnutswithoilykernels,whencethetreederivesitsname."[45]Hereisalargerpicture,takenononeofthesmallerislandsoftheSocietyarchipelago:—"Ifearnodescriptioncanpossiblyconveytoyourmindatruepictureofthelovelywoodsthroughwhichwewanderjustwherefancyleadsus,knowingthatnohurtfulcreatureofanysortlurksamongthemossyrocksorintherichundergrowthofferns.AgassizinhisascentoftheJungfrau(in1841).Thenegro,however,droppedhisknife;thecourageouswomanmadeanefforttoseizeit;hethrustherawaywithhishandsandfeet,recoveredit,andbrandishingitfuriouslyoverherhead,dealthertwowoundsintheupperpartoftheleftarm.Aloneshelived,withthegreatmountainpeaksclosinginuponher[Pg312]remoteabode—withoutbooks,withoutfriends;attendedbyafewyoungnegresses,afewblackslaves,andahandfulofArabpeasants,whotookchargeofhergardensandstables,andwatchedoverthesafetyofherperson."Theroad,orrathertrack,wasinabadcondition,owingtotherecentwetweather,andoneachsideofthefivecañadas,orsmallrivers,whichwehadtoford,thereweredeepmorasses,throughwhichwehadtostruggleasbestwecould,withthemuduptoouraxle-trees.Ifanyonewishestobepolite,hefastensattheendofthestringabeautifulflower,orsomeotherprettylittlething,andallowsittobecaughtbytheladyforwhomitisintended.Afterthefourthharvest,thefieldmustbeclearedcompletelyofthecane."Wetastedthebeverage,"saysMadamedeHell,"atPrinceTumene's,butmustconfessitwasperfectlydetestable....Thereherpowersbeganrapidlytoexpand,andsheherselftocomprehendthatliteratureofferedthesphereofactionforwhichshehadsoardentlylonged.Twentyminutesbeforehercarriageshouldappearsheretirestoherchamber,asshecallsit,shakes,andfoldsupherstillsnow-whiteapron,smoothsherrichdress,andwithnicecaresetsonherelegantbonnet,andallthehandsomeetcætera;thenwalksdownstairs,justatthemomentthatherfreeblackcoachmanannouncestoherfreeblackfootmanthatthecarriagewaits.Therewouldbeabottleofwineorofvioletsyrup;aniseseedstomasticateinsteadofcloves;quincepreserve;orgeat;acupofcoldtea;apill-box.Thelanguage,formerlysovigorousandincisive,becomesvague,colourless,hesitating;or,veryfrequently,getsuponstiltsandassumesanairofpretentiousaffectation."OnmyreturntoInterlachentheTitanspresentedmewithagloriousspectacle,anditwasnotwithoutjoyfuladmirationthatIpartedfromtheirimmediateneighbourhood."Atthenextposting-house,Ihavethesatisfactionofseeingthatmytravelling-companionshavenotescapedbetterthanmyself,and,thankstothevinegarandwaterbandagesweareforcedtoapply,weresemble,aswesitatthebreakfasttable,anambulatoryhospital!"TheBarabamarshesmeasure250milesinbreadth,andinlengthextendovereightdegreesoflatitude(fromthe52ndtothe60th);aroadhasbeencarriedacrossthem,consistingoftrunksoffirtreesfastenedtogetherandcoveredwithclay,butitisnotverysubstantial.Ourtravellerembarkedonboardthesteamdespatch-boatFi-lung,whichwasescortedbyaman-of-warbrig.Theyinscribedmynameupontheroofneartotheentrance.Wearrivedatapopulouscarrefour,whichderivedapeculiarcharacterfromthelargenumbersofcountrypeoplewhoflocktheretodisposeofallkindsofprovisions,butparticularly,gameandvegetables;heapsofcabbagesandonionsrisealmosttotheheightofthedoorsofthehouses.ThecostumeofthewealthierisabsolutelyOriental,butthatofthecommonpeoplediffersinsomeparticulars.Shecouldgoforthalone,trustinginherselfandherabilitytoencounterandovercomedanger.Inthecourseofhertwoyears'travelshemetwithseveralillustriousmen—withsomewhohavemade,orhelpedtomake,thehistoryofourtime—andherrecordoftheirconversationsisfullofinterest.Here,intheearlymorning,deer,bighorn,andthestatelyelkcomedowntofeed;andthere,inthenight,prowlandgrowltheRockyMountainlion,thegrizzlybear,andthecowardlywolf.1.F.2.LIMITEDWARRANTY,DISCLAIMEROFDAMAGES-Exceptforthe"RightofReplacementorRefund"describedinparagraph1.F.3,theProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation,theowneroftheProjectGutenberg-tmtrademark,andanyotherpartydistributingaProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkunderthisagreement,disclaimallliabilitytoyoufordamages,costsandexpenses,includinglegalfees.RemotefromtheordinarytrackaswasMademoiselleJacquemart'slonelydwelling,manypersonsweredrawntoitbytheattractionofhersingularstory.Soontheafter-glowcameon,andbeforeitfadedabighalf-moonhungoutoftheheavens,shiningthroughthesilver-bluefoliageofthepinesonthefrigidbackgroundofsnow,andturningthewholeintofairyland."Thispassageshows—what,indeed,issufficientlyevidentineverypageofMissBird'stravel-books—thatshepossesses,aseverytravelleroughttopossess,theartist'stemperament,andthatifshecannottransferthescenesshelovestothecanvas,sheknowshowtoreproducetheminwordsthathavetheglowoflightandlife.Hercomplexion,calledwhite,wasofanunhealthyyellow;indeed,notahealthycomplexionwastobeseenamongthewholecompany.AFrenchwriterobserves,thatinanagelikeours,whenfirmconvictionsandsettledbeliefsarerare,itisnosmallsatisfactiontohavetorecordacareerlikethatofthePrincessofBelgiojoso—acareerspeciallyillustrious,because,aboveallthings,honourable.Athisurgentrequest,MissTinnéandhercompanionsadvancedtoBongo,whereheexercisedauthority.ThencesheproceededtoBelgium,France,andItaly,andfinallysheextended[Pg147]hertourtoGreeceandPalestine,sothatitwasnotuntilthesummerof1861thatshereturnedhome.Abouttheseraces,andtheirmannersandcustoms—aboutBuda-PesthandSemlin,andtheice-cavesofthesnowyTabree,andthewinesofTokay,andthesceneryofRomania,ourauthoresshasmuchtosaywithequallivelinessandgrace.Nobodyopensabooktoanidiot,thatwouldfoamandsplutteroverit;foryounevercouldmakehimread.ShehadsufferedsomuchfromtheterriblewintersofthegreatNortherncapital,andherhealthwassoseriouslyshaken,thatherdoctorspresentedtoherthegravealternativeofdepartureordeath(1855).[Pg20]ThePrincessDorad'Istria,aswehavehinted,wasafinelinguist.Thegrounddisappearedundertheirfeet,andiftheyremainedstilltheywouldsinkintothetreacherousbogswhichdonotrestoretheirvictims.Alittlegirl,adoptedbyher,andmaintainedforyears,tookherwatchandsomepapersonwhichshehadsetpeculiarvalue.Dr.Heughlinrelateshow,afterthedeathofMadameTinné,hewentdailyfromthezeribahtoAlexina'sownresidence,situatedat

aconsiderabledistance,toinquireafterherhealth,andconsoleherinher[Pg212]affliction.Sheseemedtohaveinheritedfromoneofherillustriousfriends,M.Inanotherpartofthemarketallsortsoflivebirdswereforsale,withafewlivebeasts,suchasdeer,monkeys,pigs,guinea-pigsinprofusion,rats,cats,dogs,marmosets,andadearlittlelion-monkey,verysmallandratherred,withabeautifulheadandmane,whoroaredexactlylikeareallioninminiature.GreatpoliticalchangeshaveoccurredsinceMadamedeHell'svisittothatregion,whichhaveprofoundlyaffectedthecharacterofitspeopleandtheirsocialpolity;sothatheraccountofit,aswellasheraccountoftheCrimea,mustbereadwiththenecessaryallowances.Whensurroundedintheirfortsorvillages,andshutoutfromallhopeofescape,theyfrequentlysacrificedtheirwivesandchildren—liketheJewsinthelastagoniesoftheirwarwithRome—setfiretotheirdwellings,andperishedheroicallyintheflames.Sincethenhehadmainlydevotedhimselftothedoubletaskofrevengingthevictimsandsearchingforthismissingsister.Thegardenerwastobecalled,waterwastobeboiled,andthehouseagainwasallinmotion.Andthismotiveitwas,strengthenedbyanaturallyadventurousdisposition,whichinducedMademoiselleAlexinaTinné—ofwhosecareerwearenowabouttospeak—toincurtheperilsofAfricanexploration.Onthefirstheadsheannounced[Pg324]thattheMessiahwasyettocome;onthesecond,sheexpressedherlowopinionofNorman,andherhighopinionofancientFrench,blood.Brassey,thepartythenincludingherhusbandandherselfandtheirfourchildren,somefriends,asailingmaster,boatswain,carpenter,able-bodiedseamen,engineers,firemen,stewards,cooks,nurse,stewardess,andlady'smaid.Whatwantshemore,solongastheearthdoesnotfailhim?"Thereisanotherlightinwhichthisvastdesertmaybelookedat.TheFoundation'sEINorfederaltaxidentificationnumberis64-6221541.Thehorse,foramomentstupefied,soondartedawayatfullspeedandwaslostinthemidstoftheherd.Shetoldmethatvasttreasureswereknowntoexistinasituationwhichshementioned,ifIrememberrightly,asbeingnearSuez;thatNapoleon,profanelybrave,thrusthisarmintothecavecontainingthecovetedgold,andthatinstantlyhisfleshbecamepalsied.AttheendoftheyearshesailedforCallao,theportofLima,withthedesignofcrossingtheAndes[Pg256],andpushingeastward,throughtheinteriorofSouthAmerica,totheBraziliancoast.Trollopeis,thatsheisalwaysacriticandneverajudge.AtawnyraceofshepherdsofThon-Klüu—thatistosay,ofTurkishorigin,theHioungum—inhabited,livingundersheepskintents,theelevatedtable-landofGobi.Brucegoes[Pg287]withusasfarasBourgaltaï,thefirststationinMongolia.Areefofglowingcoralenclosedatranquillagoon,towhichthegreenshoresoftheislandgentlysloped.Thereweslippedbutseldom,andbyassistingoneanother,wecouldwalkerectandmorequickly.Thisisthelastspurofthemightymountain-chainoftheAndes,andconsistsofamassofhugebasalticrocks,piledtogetherinhugedisorderasbyaTitan'shand."MysticalastheDruses,withwhosemysterioussecretsshealone,perhaps,intheworld,wasacquainted,resignedliketheMussulman,andasfatalistic;withtheJew,expectantoftheMessiah'scoming;withtheChristian,aworshipperofChrist,whosebeneficentmoralityshepractised—sheinvestedthewholeinthefantasticcoloursandsupernaturaldreamsofanimaginationsteepedinthelightoftheEast,and,itwouldseem,therevelationsoftheArabianastrologists.IntheprovinceofKansou,thereisbutonelineoframpart.Theordinarychaussureisredbootswithveryhighheelsandgenerallymuchtooshort.ThepeculiarinterestandpermanentvalueofthewritingsofthePrincessdeBelgiojosoareduetothefactthattheyowenothingtoreceivedideas.HereLadyBrasseyfoundherselfinthemidstofafairy-likedrama,todescribewhichisalmostimpossible,sobewilderingwasitinthebrightnessandvarietyofitscolouring.Toheruncle,asurgeoninNorwich,shewasmainlyindebtedforhereducation.AfteranunsuccessfulattempttomakeahomeinAmerica,Mrs.AtthelattersheobtainedadmissiontothetempleofDagoba,whichcontainsapreciousrelicofBuddha,namely,oneofhisteeth.Someofthemarecrowdedwithhouses;ononeliesthechurch-yard;theothersaresterileandsolitary.Buthardlyhadsheshutthedoorandreachedherownsleeping-room,flatteringherselfthatherday'sworkwasover,whenthebellwouldring,andshewastoldtogetbrothorlemonadeororgeatdirectly.Therewerethreewindows;onewasnailedupbyitsshutterontheoutside,andoneclosedupbyabitoffeltontheinside;onlythethird,whichlookedonthegarden,wasreservedfortheadmissionoflightandair.Theskywasdarkandlowering,thesunsetredandluridinitsgrandeur,thecloudsnumerousandthreatening,theseahighanddark,withoccasionalstreaksofwhitefoam.Andsceneryofthischaracterexercisesastrongattractivepower,evenwhenitastonishes.AmongthenovelistsofthenineteenthcenturyFrederikaBremerholdsadistinguishedposition;wehopetoshowthatshemeritsasimilarplaceamongitstravellers.Thislaststill[Pg390]three,whenthecarriageagainappears,andtheladyandherbasketreturnhome;shemountstoherchamber,carefullysetsasideherbonnetanditsappurtenances,putsonherscallopedblacksilkapron,walksintothekitchentoseethatallisright,thenintotheparlour,where,havingcastacarefulglanceoverthetablepreparedfordinner,shesitsdown,workinhand,toawaitherspouse.Withoutbestowingaregretonthepast,sheencounteredmisfortuneandingratitudewithacomposedcountenance,facingthemasfearlesslyasshehadfacedtheBedawunofthedesert.Poorthing!eventhehappinessoftheseherbestdaysishollow,forshecannothave,atthesametime,peaceintheharemandherhusband'slove."[40]Withthesespecimenswemustbecontent,thoughwearewellaware,asHierocleshastaughtus,thatwecannotjudgeofahousefromasinglebrick.ShespeaksofitsharbourasoneofthemostremarkableinEurope.Nothing,however,wouldinducehimtowalk,andthenegroeswerecompelledtocarryhimbodilytothenearesthouse.Happily,thecharacteroftheTurkishpeopleneutralizesmuchofwhatisperniciousandodiousintheircustomsandcreed.No,Iamneitheraristocratnordemocrat;Iamaman,andanardentpartisanofallwhichcanameliorateandperfectthewholeman,whetherhebebornatthesummitoratthefootofthesocialladder.Ifyouwishtolookout,youopenalittlebitofyourwall,oralargerbitifyoustepout.Foreightdaysshehadeatennothingbutbread,cucumber,andafewdates;shehadagreatcraving,therefore,forahotandmorenutritiousmeal."Iraisemyhands,"shesays,"towardsthemountainofthehouseoftheLord,experiencinganindescribablethankfulnessformysafearrivalhere.Intheirdaytheydidanusefulwork,buttheyarealreadyforgotten;and,asSaraColeridgepredicted,theirpoliticaleconomyhasprovedtooheavyaballastforvesselsthatwereexpectedtosaildownthestreamoftime.Specialrules,setforthintheGeneralTermsofUsepartofthislicense,applytocopyinganddistributingProjectGutenberg-tmelectronicworkstoprotectthePROJECTGUTENBERG-tmconceptandtrademark.Aboutanhourwasspentinreorganizingthecaravan.Whenbutelevenyearsold,shecomposedacharminglittlestory,andbeforeshehadreachedwomanhood,undertookatranslationoftheIliad.Sheacknowledgesthatfeminineworkfilledherwithcontempt.JamesMartineau,sowellknownforhisfineintellectualpowers.Drawinginalongbreathofsmoke,theypuffeditforthinthefacesoftheJewesses,whoopenedmouthandnostrilseagerlytoreceiveit.Itisapitythattheiryearningforposthumousnotorietywasgratified,inasmuchasthesentimentalarticleswrittentoorderbydexterouspens,andtheversescomposedinhonourofthetwolunaticsbyBéranger,inwhicharomantichaloisthrownovertheiraudaciouscrime,"Etverslecielsefrayantunchemin,Ilssontpartisensedonnantlamain"...Totheobserveritoffersawonderfulcollectionofdifferenttypesofhumanity.JohnBulllaughsloudandlong;Jonathandoesnotlaugh,butsmilesslightly.InduetimetheyentereduponthegreatdesertofGobi,wherethegrassyplainiscoveredbyacountlessmultitudeofmole-hills,whichrenderlocomotionverydifficult.Asmallcarriage,wellhungontwowheels,wasprovidedforthetwoladies.Others,whowerenearerthetruth,ascribedittoaloveofadventure.Inthecentreafountainspringsfromabasinofporphyry.Shehadmadeupher[Pg245]mindtogotoPersia,andtoPersiashewouldgo.Theywereallfullyarmed.Todraghimselftoandfrowasallhecoulddo;andfrequentlyhisstrengthfailedhimontheway,sothathehadtositdownandrest.Afewdayslater,thetravellers,havingstartedattwointhemorning,passedintoasublimemountainvalley,whichthewatersofacopiousstreamhadcleftthroughthesolidrock.OneofthemiscertainlyMercury,whichbestowsclearnessandcolouruponintelligenceandspeech.Mansfeldisalmostaliteralportraitofoneofhermostfamiliaracquaintances.Well,Europeiswornout;Francealonehasagreatmissionbeforeher;inthisyouwillparticipate,thoughIknownothow,butIcantellyouthiseveningifyouwishit,afterIhaveconsultedthestars.""Asyet,"shecontinued—evidentlyherkeenperceptionhaddetectedhervisitor'svanity,andsheskilfullyplayeduponit—"asyet,Idonotknowthenamesofall.Orhowcouldarace,keptinthebondsandfettersofanaccurseddegradation,befittedtoplaythepartofapostlesandmissionaries?ThegreatnessandthegenerosityofFrancearethehobby-horseonwhichtheyridewithsuchafanfareoftrumpetsastoprovoketheridiculeofthepasser-by.Mountainstheylookednotofthisearth,butsuchasoneseesindreamsalone,theblessedrangesof'thelandwhichisveryfaroff.'Theyweremorebrilliantthanthoseincrediblecoloursinwhichpaintersarray[Pg431]thefieryhillsofMoabandtheDesert,andonecouldnotbelievethemforeveruninhabited,foronthemrose,asintheEast,thesimilitudeofstatelyfortresses,notthegreycastellatedtowersoffeudalEurope,butgay,massive,Saracenicarchitecture,theoutgrowthofthesolidrock.Allthistookplaceinlessthanaminute.Andyetourappetitenevergrowswearyoftheold,oldtale;thereisaromanceaboutitwhichneverseemstofade—liketheseaitselfitseemsevertopresentsomefreshandnovelaspect.Butboldnessisalwaysthebestpolicy:thisplain-featured,middle-agedwomancommandedtherespectandadmirationofherhosts,andwentfromencampmenttoencampmentinentiresecurity.This,however,wasnoeasytask,formyownbedwasdrenchedandeveryotherberthoccupied;thedeck,too,wasankle-deepinwater,asIfoundwhenItriedtogetacrosstothedeck-housesofa.ContributionstotheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationaretaxdeductibletothefullextentpermittedbyU.S.federallawsandyourstate'slaws.Religiousfervour,shesays,andthemostmundanecoquetrystruggledwithinher;feelingsforwhichshecouldnotaccountseemedtobesetheryoungbosom,fillingitsometimeswithaheavenandsometimeswithahell.TheOrientals,therefore,haverecognizedinitshighestformthissoleanduniquevirtue,thissolitaryconstraintwhichtheyhaveagreedtoimposeuponthemselves.Shewasfourteenyearsoldbeforeshewouldconsenttowearpetticoats.Hewasnolongerthegeneroushost,buthadresumedhisnaturalcharacterasanunprincipledtrader.Onlytoseetheshorewherewepassedwholedaysinseekingforshells,onlytohearthesoundofthegreatwavesrollingonthesandbanksandamongtheseaweed,onlytorecallasingleoneoftheimpressionsofthathappyepoch,Iwouldwillinglyrepeatthevoyage."Forhisgreatscientificexpedition,M.Whenwehadkindledalargefirewithbranchesofjuniper,accumulatedbythehunterwhomostfrequentedtheretreat,theiceshonewithamyriaddiamondtints;everythingseemedtoassumeanextraordinaryformandlife.Butwhatstrikesusasmostremarkableaboutherwastheabsolutesimplicityofhercharacterandconduct;theunpretendingwayinwhichsheaccomplishedherreallygreatachievements;hermodestyofmannerandfreedomfrompretension.Itwasthenthatourrealsufferingsbegan.Ithenremarkedthattheyhadcollectedinagroupatsomedistanceapart,andwereconversinginalowtoneandwithanxiousfaces.ItwastheCossack,whoendeavouredtodraghertothecar."'Withusthedamp,thechill,thegloom;Withthemthesunset'srosybloom.'"Thedimnessofearthwithme,thelightofheavenwiththem.AcaravanbeingabouttostartforTabrîz,MadameIdaPfeifferdecidedthatshewouldjoinit,thoughwarnedthatitwouldtraverseacountrycontainingnotasingleEuropean.ItwouldbeinterestingtoknowwhattheChinesepeoplethoughtofthishandsomeandself-possessedlady;unaccustomedastheywereandaretovisitsfromEuropeanwomen,andunfamiliarastheywereandarewiththeideathatapersonofthegrandmondeinnowisecompromisesherdignitybytravellingaboutasfreelyandwalkingasreadilyasservantsandfemalesofthelowerclasses.Iusuallydislikebird's-eyeandpanoramicviews,but,thoughfromamountain,thiswasnotone.Whetheritbelongstothecharacterofthepeople,orwhetheritisbutatransitoryfeatureinthephysiognomyoftheage,shedeclaresherselfunabletodetermine;butnothingstrikeshersoforciblyastheairofgaietyandindifferencewithwhichtheFrenchdiscussthosegreatsubjectsthatinvolvetheworld'sdestinies.InthefollowingyearshemadeseveralexcursionstotheDanishislands,andthen,bywayofLondon,directedherstepstoNewYork,anxioustostudythesocialconditionofwomenintheUnitedStates.IrejoicedtoseesonearmetheimmenseglaciersandloftypeaksoftheAlps,theimageofwhichhadoftenhauntedmyhappiestdreams.HerpaletteisnotrichenoughinglowingcolourstoreproducefairlythewarmluxuriantlandscapesoftheEast.Hecomes,shakeshandswithher,spits,anddines.FromAthenstoCorinth,andfromCorinthtoCorfu,[Pg252]andthencetoTrieste.Thepalace,properlysocalled,displaysexternallytheusualirregularityofOrientalarchitecture,butitswantofsymmetryisforgottenbyhimwhosurveysitsbroadcolonnades,itsbrightdecorations,itsfantasticpavilions,andshelteringgroves.IelevatedmysoultoGod.TheAfricanvillagesarefrequentlyofconsiderablesize.Itwassunsetbeforetheday'sbusinessreallybegan.Nosoonercantheywalkthantheymountonhorseback,andaddressthemselvesvigorouslytowrestlingandriding,thechiefamusementsofthetribes.MarySomerville,theillustriousastronomerandphysicist,wouldnothaveclaimedforherselfthedistinction[Pg381]oftraveller,norhasshewrittenanycompletebookoftravel;buttherearesketchesofsceneryinher"PersonalRecollections"whichmakeonewishthatshehaddoneso.Onthe29thofJanuary,1869,shesetoutfromTripoli,andonthe1stofMarcharrivedatSokna,inFezzan.TakingthesteamertoSmyrna,shepassedthroughthestar-likeclustersoftheislesofGreece—thoseisles"whereburningSappholovedandsung;"andfromSmyrnashehastenedtoAthens.Groupsofmariners,Arnaoutsintheirquaintcostume,andgirlsasgracefulofshapeasthosewhoofoldjoinedinthechoricdancesofCytherea,woundtheirwayupthesteeppathtothefortress,ortrippedinmirthfulmeasurestotheshrillmusicofabalalaika.Splendidwasthewhiteplumageoftheosprey,shininginthemidstofthedark-green[Pg204]foliage;norlesssothatofthelittlewhiteheron,standingwithmelancholyaspectontheprostratetree-trunks.Theseladiesoccupiedahutoftheirown,consisting,liketheprince's,ofasingleroom.Ateleveno'clockwehaltedonapromontorywherewecontrivedtofindroombysittingonebehindtheother.Bewarelesttheysetfiretoyourboats,astheyhavealreadydonetoallvesselscomingfromKhartûm."AlexinaTinnédisregardedthesewarnings,continuedhervoyage,and,afewdayslater,anchoredoffaShillookvillage.Hesent,tomygreatsatisfaction,forasedan-chair.Butthisisafactwhichwewishshecouldhave[Pg128]forgottenorignored.Shenestledagainsthermother,andthemotherclaspedherclosely,lestweshouldcarryherofftoLondon.TheywerejoinedbytheBarond'Arkeld'Ablaing;andhavingcollectedlargesuppliesofprovisions—thelistreadslikethecatalogueofaco-operativestore—andofarticlessuitableforbarter,withariding-horseforeachtraveller,andsuchawardrobeforMissTinnéandhermotherastojustifythesuppositionthattheyintendedtoestablishaMagasindesModesamongtheNyam-Nyam,theyquittedKhartûminFebruary,1863.Butmostofthemarequitenaked."Wewereforty-threeonboard,alltold,"saysMrs.Lowastheyareinthescaleofhumanity,fromthestandpointofWesterncivilization,theFuegians,orCanoeIndians,astheyaregenerallycalled,becausetheylivesomuchonthewater,andhavenofixedabodeson[Pg354]shore,sinkmuchlower.Anauthorhasgainedagooddealwhenhesucceedsinpleasinghisreaders;buttoensureaclaimtoimmortalityhemustbaretothemhispersonality,thesecretsofhissoul,thefeelingsofhisheart.HerhighmoralsenserevoltedatthelowsocialtoneofKhartûm,andsheleftitwithgladnesstobegintheascentoftheWhiteNile,andcarryouttheobjectsshehadproposedtoherself."Vainandfalse,"shedeclared,"wasallthepretendedknowledgeoftheEuropeans.Roundtheirheadstheytwistblackshawls,turban-wise,orthey[Pg248]weartheredfez,withasmallsilkhandkerchiefwoundaboutit;andonthetopofthis,akindofwreathmadeofshortblackfringe,wornlikeadiadem,butleavingtheforeheadfree.Butourspaceisexhausted,andthereaderwhowouldgofurthermustbereferredtoherinterestingvolumes.TheyreachedKalganonthe23rdofMay,andweregreetedbyMadamedeBaluseck,whowastoreturntoEuropeincompanywithMadamedeBourboulon.Hiswifeanddaughterscameouttoreceiveus,andconductedusalongapassagefullofgirlspickingcotton,andthroughtwofloorsstoredwithsesame,grainofvariouskinds,cotton,melons,gourds,&c.,toasuiteofspaciousroomsontheupperfloor,openingintooneanother,withwindowslookingovera[Pg376]valley."Thenativesofthesepartspasstheirlivesinthesaddle.WeshallallowMadameDorad'Istriatoconductusinpersonthroughthedifficultiesofsoarduousanenterprise.Onnearlyeveryrimasmallfurry,reddish-buffbeastsatonhishindlegs,looking,sofarasheadwent,muchlikeayoungseal.Itsappearancefromtheseaisveryattractive,foritsportissurroundedwithmountains,thehighestofwhichstillretainsamemorialoftheoldGenoesedominion,whileinpartofitsblueexpanseliestheprettyGreektown,withitsbalconiedhousesandmassesoffoliagerisinginterracesoneabovetheother."Thesea,bristlingwithjaggedsheetsofice,clangsandclattersnoisily;theloftylittoralpeaksglidedowntotheshore,fallaway,andplungeintothegulfofwaterswithanawfulcrash.Hekissedthegroundrepeatedly,andeachtimehedidso,thin,fragrantwaxtaperswereputintohishands.In1839shepublished"Deerbrook,"herbestnovel,whichthecriticwillalwaysvalueasavigorouspictureofsomeaspectsofEnglishlife.Thedayendedinagreatfeast,preparedtodohonourtotheheroine,and[Pg311]fromthattimeherpoweroverthemindsofthepeoplegrewrapidly."Thiswasprobablythehappiest,oratleastthemostsuccessful,periodofhercareer.AtthetimeofMadamedeBourboulon'svisittheentrancewasclosed,andwhiletheTing-tchaïwentinsearchoftheguardians,sheandhercompanionsdismounted,seatedthemselvesonthegreensward,intheshadowofsomecolossallarches,andenjoyedapleasantrepast,thesepulchralstonesservingastables.Donationsareacceptedinanumberofotherwaysincludingincludingchecks,onlinepaymentsandcreditcarddonations.Sheconsidersthemeveninferior,physically,tothemen.Oncemoretheyfoundthemselveswithinthegenerousinfluencesofcivilization.ItreflectswithwonderfulaccuracythephysiognomyofthereignofLouisPhilippe;thoseoutbreakswhichsofrequentlytroubledthecity;thosepoliticaldiscussionswhicheveryeveningtransformedthesalonsintosomanyclubs;theromanticaspirationsofYoungFrance;theturbulenceofthepeople,andthegeneralwantofrespectforthemonarchy.Inthemidstofallthisfun,theinterpretersassuredusthat'thereismuchjealousyeveryday;'jealousyofthefavouredwife;thatis,inthiscase,oftheonewhowaspointedouttousbyhercompanionsassoeminentlyhappy,andwithwhomtheywererompingandkissing,aswiththerest.OntheoccasionofMadameIdaPfeiffer'svisit,afuneralceremonywasbeingperformedinhonourofamandarin'sdeceasedwife.There,farbelow,linksofdiamondsshowedwherethegrandrivertakesitsrisetoseekthemysteriousColorado,withitsstillunsolvedenigma,andloseitselfinthewatersofthePacific;andnearer,thesnow-bornThompsonburstsforthfromtheicetobeginitsjourneytotheGulfofMexico.Thiswasamostgarrulousandamusingindividual,fullofreminiscencesandanecdotesofhisfightingdays.HereDr.Steudnersuccumbedtohisdisease,andpassedaway,almostwithoutpain,onthe10th.Ontheirreturntheyinformedusthatwemightrelyonafineday—wordswhichwerewelcomedwithloudapplause.Thevoyagewasnotmarkedbyanycontraryincident,andLadyHestersafelydisembarkedatLatakia,asmallportofSyria,betweenTripoliandAlexandretta.Intruth,sheisseldomhappyinherliterarycriticisms.Itistooearlytodecidedogmaticallywhetherinthisall-importantbranchofmoralstheRepublichaseffectedanimprovement;butassuredlytheimprovement,ifithasbegun,hasnotextendedveryfarorverydeep.Ononeoftheseexcursionsshenarrowlyescapedthemurderer'sknife.Assoonasthevehiclehadpassedsheresumedherwalk;when,toherastonishment,itstoppedsuddenly,andalmostatthesamemomentshefeltastronggrasponherarms.Thesoundswhichthenarise—songandhumandmurmur,therolloftheriver,thedroneofinsects,thecriesofthewildbeasts—allseemtoblendinonegrandvesperharmony—onechoralhymnofthanksgivingtotheLordoflife.Herpartyconsistedofherself,twoyouths,thesonsofacertainDr.H.,and"MountainJim,"oneofthefamousscoutsoftheplain,anexpertinIndianborderwarfare,whoactedasguide.In1835theParisianssometimesfelltoblowsinsupportofaphilosophicalprinciple,andwouldincuralmostanyhazardtohearafavouriteoratororto"assist"attherepresentationofadramabyoneoftheirownpetauthors.Mycarriagewasliftedupandhauledonboardbydintofsheerphysicalstrength,fiftymenbeingrequiredforthework,andsingingtheirloudesttoinspirittheirefforts—Iheardnothing.Shehadnexttosettlewiththewifeofherguide,whohadbesiegedherthewholeday,andincessantlypetitionedforlargesse.Someoffencesagainstthe"minormorals"incurhercondemnation;buttheevilwhichmostprovokesheristheincessanttobaccosmokingoftheGermans,against[Pg392]whichsheprotestsasvehementlyasdidJamesI.TheBaronessAxiniawasbeautiful,anddrewaroundheracrowdofadmirers,whoseflatteriesshedidnotreject,thoughitdoesnotappearthatshelistenedtoprofessionsoflovewhichcouldhavedishonouredher.Acrystallinespring,filteringthroughthemarbleandthebrushwood,murmuredclosebesideus.Awordastohercostume.Herstrength,formerlyexceptional,wasnowrapidlydeclining;thoughatfirstsheseemedunconsciousofthechange,orregardeditasonlytemporary,anddisplayedhercharacteristicimpatienceofrepose.Theypointtohercombinationofdomesticity,householdeconomy,andimagination;tothealliancebetweenpoetryandprosewhichstrengthenedhervividgenius.ThatMrs."Beholdmenowinthestreetoftheclothes-merchants;therearemoresecond-handdealersthantailorsinChina;onehasnorepugnanceforanother'scast-offraiment,andfrequentlyonedoesnotdeigneventocleanit.EndoftheProjectGutenbergEBookofCelebratedWomenTravellersoftheNineteenthCentury,byW.Somecarriages,withmasksincostumesanddominoes,begintodriveupanddowntheCorso;thewarwithcomfitsandbouquetshasbegunbetweenpedestriansandthosewhoareincarriages—betweenthepeopleinthestreetsandthepeopleatthewindowsandinthebalconies.For,keepingitalwaysbeforeher,sheisledtoweighwithcriticaltimidityeveryword,everyphrase,andtoelaborateeachsentenceuntil,intheoldGreekphrase,we"smelltheoil."Thosepassagesofglowingdescriptionwhichatfirstmarchedonsofreelyandfully,cometoanabruptpause.Theywerevastranges,apparentlyofenormousheight,theircolourindescribable,deepestandreddestnearthepine-drapedbases,thengraduallysofteningintowonderfultenderness,tillthehighestsummitsroseallflushed,andwithanillusionoftransparency,sothatonemightbelievethattheyweretakingonthehueofsunset.In1844theindustrioussatirist,whowouldhavebeenmoregenerallysuccessfulhadsheselectedtheobjectsofherattackswithgreaterdiscretion,withdrewtoFlorence,fromthehostofenemiesher"freehitting"hadprovoked,buryingherselfinanalmostabsoluteseclusion.WhentheSunbeamwasinEnglishReach,acanoesuddenlyappearedonherportbow,andassheseemedmakingdirectfortheyacht,SirThomasorderedtheenginestobeslowed.Heconcludedwithaforecastabundantlyjustifiedbyevents,thathewouldeventuallyconductPiedmont,withcompletesecurity,intoapathwhenceitcouldnotturnback,andshesawthathewouldnothesitatetomakepecuniarysacrificesforthiscause.[Pg165]"Piedmont,"hesaid,"hadlongbeenlikeavesselwhich,havingruntooclosetotherocks,waspreventedbythatmeansfromhavingthewindinhersails,andthisimpedimentmustberemoved."OneofthemeanstothisendmentionedbyCavourwasthegiganticworkwhichhassincebeensuccessfullyaccomplished,thetunnellingofMontCenis;hewasofopinionthatthiswouldfacilitatecommunicationbetweenthesocialcultureandsociallifeofthemostdevelopedoftheEuropeancities.Herfirstbook,"FromtheHebridestotheHimalayas,"attractedagreatdealofattentionbythefreshnessofitssketches,thegraceofitsstyle,theunconventionalityofitstreatment,andbythespacewhichitsauthordevotedtopopularsuperstitionsandantiquities.Asourtravellersmovedforward,theyfeltthatthelavagrewhotterandhotter,andfromeveryfissureissuedgaseousfumes,whichseriouslyaffectedtheirnosesandthroats;till,atlast,whenpassedtoleewardofthelava-riverrollingfromthelake,theywerealmostsuffocatedbythevapour,anditwaswithdifficultytheypursuedtheiradvance.Towardsevening,shesays,shesaw,tohergreatdelight,acaldronofmuttonseethingonthefire.AsifHeavenfavouredourwishes,whilecloudsrolleduponallthesurroundingmountains,theyleftfreeandclearthepeakoftheMönch.Nexttotea,theylovespirituousliquors.Thesewereembarkedonboardasteamer,twodahabecyahs,andtwoordinaryNileboats,whichalsocarriedfourcamels,thirtydonkeysandmules,andtheriding-horsesaforesaid.Itwasafrightful,aterribletime.SirFrederickBruce,theEnglishminister;Mr.Wade,thesecretarytotheEnglishlegation;M.FourcomelyJapanesegirlsbroughtthickcottonquiltsforthevisitorstositupon,andbraziersfullofburningcharcoalthattheymightwarmthemselves."Thegirls,whowerepretty,worepeculiardressestoindicatetheircalling,andseemedofanentirelydifferentstampfromthequiet,simply-dressedwaitresseswhomwefoundsoattentivetoourwants;stilltheyalllookedcheery,light-hearted,simplecreatures,andappearedtoenjoy[Pg371]immenselythelittlechildishgamestheyplayedamongstthemselvesbetweenwhiles."[35]This"VoyageRoundtheWorld,"fromwhichwemustnowturnaside,doesnotsumupLadyBrassey'sachievementsasatraveller.Oftheotherfivethreeweresisters—thatis,weconclude,half-sisters;childrenofdifferentmothersinthesameharem.Ipaidforitdoubleitsvalue,butthemasteroftheestablishmentwassopersuasive,soirresistible,thatIcouldnotrefuse,andIthenleftimmediately,forhewasquitecapableofmakingmebuyupthewholeofhisshop.Inherowncasetheattackwassosevereasatonetimetothreatenherlife.But,meanwhile,hermistresswouldfeelatwitchinsomepartofherbody,andthebellwouldagainberung.Theseclouds,themorningmistasIsupposed,liftedthemselvesuprose-lighted,showingthesun'sdiscaspurpleasoneofthejarsinachemist'swindow,andhavingpermittedthisglimpseoftheirking,camedownagainasadensemist;thewindchoppedround,andthemistbegantofreezehard.Twonegroesafterwardscameup;thevillainwascaptured,securelypinioned,and,ashewouldnotwalk,severelybeaten,until,asmostoftheblowsfelluponhishead,MadamePfeifferfearedthewretch'sskullwouldbebroken.Heavyweedsclamberedabouttheopenportalsandatangleofrosesandjasmineblockedthewaytotheinnercourt,wheretheflowersnolongerbloomedandthefountainshadceasedtoplayinthemarblebasins.Thecaravansetoutonthe8thofJuly,andnextdaycrossedthehillsthatintervenebetweenMesopotamiaandKurdistan.Sowhilethecaravandraggeditslaboriouswaythroughtheburning,shiftingsand,AlexinaandherkinswomenleisurelyascendedtheNile.Onthe17thofMaysheleftTahiti,theDutchvesselinwhichshehadembarkedbeingboundviâthePhilippines.TheCaditookthepaper,andpreparedtoreadittoher;buthehadscarcelyperchedhisglassesonhisnosewhentheladyleapedforward,sprangathisthroat,seizedthepaper,putitinherpocket,madeherobeisance,andcalmlypassedoutthroughthevestibule,whichwasfilledwithslavesandservants.IconfessthatatfirstIfeltsomewhatafraid,andIwhisperedtoM.Shereceived,underherfather'ssupervision,averycarefuleducation,anddevelopedherproclivitiesforliterarycompositionatanearlyage.TheveryairwhichIenduredsobadlywasanobjectofinterestandstudyonaccountofitsextraordinarypurity."Acorpsewastheonlyinhabitantofthepalace,andtheisolationfromherkindwhichshehadsoughtsolongwasindeedcomplete.ItisnotonlyinChinathatcoquetryorfashionstimulatesitsvictimstotortureanddisfigureGod'shandiwork:theunnaturallysmallfeetoftheChinesewomenareatleastnotmoreinjuriousorunsightlythantheunnaturallysmallwaistsoftheladiesofEurope!"WhattheChinesethinkoftheirwomenmaybeinferredfromacharacteristicincident,ofwhichMadamedeBourboulonisthenarrator.Night[Pg29]gatheredinallaround,andthevicinityofGrindelwaldIcouldmakeoutonlybythelightsinthechâletsscattereduponthehill.Theprettiest,Ithink,arethosewhichareundyedandretainthenaturalcolourofthecocoon,fromcreamy-whitetothedarkestgold.Then,seatedaroundthefire,theypreparedthecoffeewhichwastoserveusthewholenight.Itwasnotwithoutdifficultytheyforcedtheirwaythroughthecrowd,andescapedfromthetemple.Wehavealreadyhintedthatherearlylifewasnotaltogetherhappy;herparentsdonotappeartohaveunderstoodorsympathizedwithher,andthehouseholdconcordwasfrequentlybrokenbytheaustere,nottosayeccentric,temperamentofitshead.Hepromised,andhisfacebrightenedatthesightofmytranquilsmile.FromShanghaitotheGulfofPetchi-li,intowhichthePeihoemptiesitswaters,thedistanceistwohundredleagues.Hisbloodiswarmer;hehasnocorpulence;hemarcheswithcoatunbuttonedorwithoutone.OfthelattersheremarksthattheydonotlivesofrugallyastheArabs.Forweeksthevoyagerslingeredamongthefairsceneryofthishappyvalley;andthentheyresumedtheirascentoftheNileasfarasLakeNû,whereitreceivesthemajesticvolumeoftheBahr-el-Ghazalbeforestrikingsharplytowardsthesouth.Ontheother,theysweptprecipitatelyintoagreatcavern,carryingawaythegiganticstalactiteswhichhungatitsentrance,andfillingitwithathunderousroarlikethatofcontendingarmies.Sheardentlydesiredtoadvance;tosharesomeoftheglorywhichcrownsthenamesofSpekeandGrant,BakerandPetherick;tobeholdwithherowneyesthevastexpanseoftheblueVictorianSea;totracetoitsfountain-headthecourseoftheNile;buttheauthoritiesthrewobstaclesinherwaywhichprovedtobeinsurmountable.Thesepoordumbphantoms,whoareallthemoretobepitiedbecausetheyhavenoideathattheyneedpity,generallybetakethemselvestothecemeteries,where,seatedundertheolivetrees,theyspendthedayindoingnothing."Theease,grace,anddramaticpowerofthisdescriptionnoreaderwillquestion.[Pg177]AftervisitingmostshrinesofinterestintheHolyLand,MissBremerextendedhertourtotheTurkishsea-coast,andinvestigatedallthatwasworthseeingatBeyrout,Tripoli,Latakia,Rhodes,Smyrna,andConstantinople.Thisdefectionsocietywasbynomeansabletounderstand.Astimewenton,theyextendedtheiroperations,armedthetribesoneagainsttheother,encouragedthemintheirdestructivefeuds,andinthiswayconsolidatedtheirnefarioustyranny.Astheydrewnear,moustachesbegantoshow,andIsawthattheyweremen,whilstwalkingwiththemwerewomennakedtothewaist,combless,andfarmoreroughand'manly'thantheirhusbands.Forhalf-an-hourIlistenedtothediscussion,andwhenIwentonmywaynodecisionhadbeenarrivedat.Vastwastheheightfromwhichwelookeddown,[Pg455]sothatthetreeshadtheappearanceofperfectstillness,formingintheglorioussunshinealovelycrimson-tintedcarpet,theshadowscastuponthembythecloudsgivingcontinualvarietytothecolouring.Eachfemininecountenanceisaworkofhighartthatcannotbereconstructedeverymorning.Inherearlyyearsherbeauty,herwit,andhertalentsgainedheradegreeoffamesuchasrarelyattachestooneinthehumblepositionofagoverness.TohervisitorLadyHesterseemedaboutfiftyyearsofage;shewasreallyfifty-six;shewasstillbeautiful—beautifulwiththatbeautywhichliesintheformitself,inthepurityofthelines,inthemajesty,thethoughtwhichirradiatethecountenance.Sometimesawholeladenboughhasbeenrecklesslycutoff.ButsuchisnotthecasewiththeTchuelchesinwhoseveinsisamixtureofFuegianorAraucanianblood.TheretheywerereceivedbythegovernorwitheverydetailofOrientaletiquette;werecomfortablylodgedinpavilionsinhisgarden,andsurroundedbyanatmosphereofcourteoushospitality.Enteringamorefertilecountry,shereachedTabrîzinsafety,andrejoicedtofindherselfagainwithintheinfluenceoflawandorder.Thereuponher[Pg355]occupantspliedtheirpaddlesmorefuriouslythanbefore,shoutingandgesticulatingviolently,onemanwavingaskinroundhisheadwithanenergyofactionthatthreatenedtocapsizehisfrailcraft—frail,intruth,foritwasmadeonlyofroughplanksrudelyfastenedtogetherwiththesinewsofanimals."Thisisthewayinwhichalltherooms,evenbedrooms,arewarmedinJapan,andtheresultisthatfiresareofveryfrequentoccurrence.NoteontheHarem,orHarum.—Itiscurioustocomparewiththeprincess'sdisillusionizingaccountofaharem,suchapoeticalandromanticdescriptionasthefollowing,inwhichitbecomesabowerofbeauty,tenantedbyanOrientalVenus:—"Theladyoftheharum—couchedgracefullyonarichPersiancarpetstrewnwithsoftbillowycushions—isasrichapictureasadmirationevergazedon.Itissurprisingthatapowerfulgovernmentshouldstooptosomuchcravenfearandpettysuspicion.Intheautumnof1848FrederikaBremerlefthome,payingfirstavisittoheroldfriendandteacher,theRev.Itismadeofsilver,iselaboratelygilt,anddecoratedwithcostlyjewels.Thehighcorsagewasquiteflat,andglitteredwithsilverembroideryandfinepearlsthatcoveredeveryseam.Thecharmingappearanceofthisislandfromtheseamovedher,asitmoveseverytraveller,toadmiration.Butfromliteratureletusturntosociety,inwhichsheiseasiertoplease.WhentheprincesssawthatIhaddeterminedontakingmyleave,shemadesignsthatIshouldgoandseehergarden;but,thoughgratefullyacknowledgingthecourteousattention,Ipreparedtorejoinmyhusbandimmediately,beingimpatienttorelatetohimalltheparticularsoftheinterviewwithwhichIwascompletelydazzled."TheCrimeaisnotwithoutitsmemorableplaces.OftheCircassianinhabitantsofthismountainregion,beforetheywerecompletelysubjugatedbythedespotismofthewhiteCzar,MadamedeHellfurnishesagraphicaccount.Outofrespect,orforsomeotherreason,theguardiansleftusfreetogoandcomeatwill,dispensingwiththelabouroffollowingus."Butifthespectacleofthebayhadsomethingmagicalinit,ominousandgloomywasthesceneonshore.Intheseclimates,andundertheinfluenceofcoarseandunwholesomefood,thewomanagesearly;whereastheman,betterconstitutedtoendurefatigueandprivation,preserveshisvigouralmosttothelastunimpaired.Iseemorethanthree,however;Icandistinguishfour,perhapsfive,and—whoknows?—stillmore.Overthesesheikhsandthesetribessheexercisedatonetimeasingularinfluence.Theyarealwaysdeckedandsometimesplatedwithsilverornaments.Theonlysoundsarethoseofthebranchesswayinginthebreeze,orofaboughcrashingtothegroundthroughdecay,ortheoccasionalvoicesofthewanderingbirds;andtheseseembuttoincreasethesilencebytheirinadequatenessofcontrast.Forfouryearsshecontinuedtobeaforemostfigureinthesemi-European,semi-AsiaticsocietyofCairo;butherrovingandadventurousspiritwasnotquenched,herloveofnewthingsandnewplaceswasnotchecked.Howmanyofhersexcouldendureforaweektheexposureandfatiguetowhichshesubjectedherselfyearafteryear?Thesegrowwildoverthewholecountry,loadedwithlarge,excellentfruit,and,moreover,supplythewholefueloftheisles,andgoodfoodforcattle....GovernmentHouseisoneofthelastoftheoldTurkishresidences."Firstoneseestherushofbluewater,graduallychanginginitsdescenttoacloudofwhitespray,whichinitsturnislostinarainbowofmist.AlightlycladKalmuk,whofollowedthema-foot,spranginstantlyuponthestallion,cutthethongsthatwerethrottlinghim,andengagedwithhiminacontestofincredibleagilityanddaring.TheswampsoftheGazelleRiverarethehappypasture-groundsofhundredsofwildbeasts.Thisvirtueliesonlyinadivinemorality,thefruitofaperfectreligion!Thecivilizationofthepeoples—itistheirfaith!"WeshallshortlyseethatLadyHester,withherquickinsightintocharacter,aninsightsharpenedbylongandvariedexperience,took"themeasure"ofhervisitorveryaccurately,andlightlyestimatedthevanity,self-consciousness,andinflatedsentimentalitywhichweakenedthegeniusofLamartineandmarredhiscareer,bothforhiscountryandhimself.CreatingtheworksfrompublicdomainprinteditionsmeansthatnooneownsaUnitedStatescopyrightintheseworks,sotheFoundation(andyou!)cancopyanddistributeitintheUnitedStateswithoutpermissionandwithoutpayingcopyrightroyalties.BeyondLakeNûtheWhiteNilebreaksintoan[Pg200]intricateseriesofcurvesandmeanders,throughwhichitscurrentrusheswithgreatrapidity,andwithsuchstrengththatthesteamerwascompelledtothrowoffthetowing-ropeofthetwoNileboats,andleavethemtothemselves.Whenmymotherinformedmeoftheproposal,andIlearnedthatIwasdestinedtoloveonemanandbelongtohimonly,theimpressionsIhaduntilthenallunconsciouslyexperienced,[Pg220]assumedadefiniteform,andIdiscoveredthatIcouldlovenopersonexcepttheguideofmyyouth."Ashewasnotlesspassionatelyattachedtoher,hehastenedtomakeaproposal,towhichherparentsobjectedonthegroundofhiswantoffortune.JohnSterling'scriticismofitsays:—"Itisreallyverystriking,andpartsofitareverytrueandverybeautiful.IthasbeensaidthatinsomerespectshermanneristhatoftheelderDumas,butwhilesheismorehonestandlessgiventoexaggerationshedoesnotrisetothesameliterarystandard.PapadopoulosatanearlyagetaughtmeGreek,whichintheEastisasimportantasFrenchintheWest.[Pg126]MADAMELÉONIED'AUNET."Itseemedscarcelypracticabletopassthenightonthesnowatsogreatanelevation,wheretheeffortofbreathingwasapain,andtheicycoldthreatenedtofreezeourachinglimbs,and,besides,theguideswereunanimousinpredictingaviolentstormintheevening.IdaReyerwasbornatViennaonthe15thofOctober,1797."WhenIrosenextmorning,myfacewasonegreatwound,andforalongtimeIenduredthekeenestsufferings.ShemadebutabriefsojournintheTurkishcapital.Inthebazaars,intheshops,whereverapacificlifepredominates,smokersaremetwith.Unless,indeed,weregardasanexceptionthewonderfulwomantowhoseadventuresandexperiencesthefollowingchapterwillbedevoted.At[Pg435]intervalsmightbeheardthehowloftheprairiewolf,andtheoccasionallowingofcattlegaveherhopeoftheneighbourhoodofman.Seeparagraph1.Cbelow.Eventhegardensandpalm-treeshardlyrelievedit.Wemustnotmuzzlethemouthoftheoxwhotreadsthecorn.T.Thiscarriagestimulatedhercuriosity,and,insuchacountry,waswelladaptedtosuggesttoalivelyfancytheoutlinesofaromance.Howfarfromthetruth!Picturetoyourselfwallsblackandfullofchinks,woodenceilings,splitinmanyplacesanddarkwithdustandspiders'webs,sofastornandgreasy,door-hangingsintatters,tracesofoilandcandle-greaseeverywhere."Atourfirstinterview,"saysMadamedeHell,"sheseemedtomealittletimid,nay,evenwild(sauvage)—acircumstanceamplyjustifiedbyherexceptionalposition.TheygenerallystationthemselvesandtheirwaresonthePlacedeJaffa,andscreaminafrightfulmanner;onewouldthinktheywerequarrelling,when,inreality,theyareonlygossiping.Hundredsoffeetbelowusglitteredthedeepcrevassesoftheglacier,inwhichtheraysofthesundisported.Theirhorse-hidebootsareonlyworn,forreasonsofeconomy,whenhunting.Thecountry-womenareoftenremarkableforakindofsavagebeauty,butgenerallytheyareugly,withanexpressionofrudenessandill-nature.And,firstofall,wedescendtheprecipice,300feetindepth,whichformsthewalloftheoriginalcrater,butnowbloomingwithaprodigalvegetation.Thefamilyhasstationedabandatthedoortoproclaimitsgriefbyrendingtheearsofthepassers-by.Here,porterstrudgebyloadedwithbalesoftea;there,underanawningoffelt,areencampeditinerantrestaurateurswiththeircooking-stoves;yonder,themendicantbonzesbeatthetam-tam,andsecond-handdealersdisplaytheirwares.deBalusecktookleaveofhiswife,andsetoutonhisreturntoPekin;SirF.ShewasbuteighteenwhensheacceptedthehandofMr.ThomasA.Thornsandgrasswerepiledoverthedoor,andtheEuropeanofficerspresentinsistedthatfreespaceshouldbeleft,asitwashopedthepoorvictimmightyetrelent,andrushfromherfieryprisontotheprotectionsofreelyoffered."TheclimateofColoradoisthefinestinNorthAmerica;andconsumptives,asthmatics,dyspeptics,andsufferersfromnervousdiseasesarehereinhundredsandthousands,eithertryingthe'campcure'forthreeorfourmonths,orsettlingherepermanently.TheyareallBaris;veryignorantandsuperstitious,butnotnaturallycruel.Nothingcoulddivertherfromafixedpurpose.Everyeveningasavourypilauwasmadefortheirenjoyment,frequentlywithdriedgrapesorplums.Iveryoftenhadmyselfboundnearthebinnacle,andallowedthetremendouswavestobreakoverme,inordertoabsorb,asitwere,asmuchofthespectaclebeforemeaspossible;onnooccasiondidIeverfeelalarmed,butalwaysfullofconfidenceandresignation."MadamePfeifferreachedValparaisoonthe2ndofMarch.Thegala-dayinaChinaman'slifeisthedayofhisdeath.Whenatacertaindistancefromtheland,adistanceregulatedbytheswimmer'smeasureofstrengthandaddress,hechoosesalargewave,andeitherastride,orkneeling,orstandinguponhisboard,allowshimselftobesweptinshoreuponitscurlingcrestwithheadlongspeed.Incrossingaditchthecarriagewassoviolentlyshaken,thatthecoachmanandourdragomanwerethrownfromtheirseats,thelatterfallinguponthepoleinsuchawaythathewasnoteasilyextricated.Nodoubt,shethought,thepavoskcontainedayoungandbeautifulCircassian,whosecharmswouldfascinatesomeOrientalprince,andplaceaqueen'sdiademuponherbrow.Heexplainedthattheywouldneverhaveplayedhimsosorryajokehaditnotbeenthat,findingthemselvesoverwhelmedbythetroublesandanxietiesoftheworld,theyhadresolvedtoenjoyagoodmealoncemore,andthentotakeleaveofexistence.Thetruebentofhertalents—asharp,bold,andsomewhatcoarsesatire—shedidnotdiscoveruntilafterhervisittotheUnitedStates(1829-1831).Herdescriptionofthem,however,presentsnopointsofinteresttomeritquotation.Thecookoftheembassy,Ky-tsin,wasamanwithmoreyearsthangallantry.Myyouthhasnotbeenhappy;onthecontrary,ithasbeenatimeofsuffering,anditsdaystoagreatextent—thisisindeedthetruth—havepassedawayinacontinualwishtodie."Ialwayssucceeded,"saysMadamePfeiffer,"inobtainingmyownwill."ItgoeswithoutsayingthatIspeakoftherudemultitude,andnotofthesimplehonestheartswholovethegoodbecausetheyfinditpleasant,andpractiseitbecauseinpractisingittheytasteasecretenjoyment.Only,justicecompelsustosaythatwritingofalmostequalmerit,sometimesofsuperior,isnowpouredouteveryyear,nay,everymonth,byadventurersofthe"othersex."Afemaletravellerhasceasedtobeararaavis;delicately-nurturedwomennowclimbMontBlancorpenetrateintotheNorwegianforests,orcrossthePacific,ortraversesandydeserts,orvisitremoteisles,incompanywiththeirhusbandsandbrothers,or"unprotected."Thisgreatandrapidincreaseinthenumberoffemaletravellersispartlydue,nodoubt,tothegreaterfacilitiesoflocomotion;[Pg384]butwebelieveitisalsoduetothegreaterfreedomwhichwomenoflateyearshavesuccessfullyclaimed,andtotheconsequentdevelopmentofpowersandfaculties,theirpossessionofwhichwaslongignoredordenied.Atlasttheypointedoutagoodsiteforanencampment,receivinginreturnatriflingbackshish,collectedfromthewholecaravan.Notlessfatiguedthanmyself,theguidesat[Pg45]lengtharrivedsinging,andbroughtmeasuperbdiplomauponofficialpaper."[3]TheprincessafterwardstravelledinGreece,whereshereceivedanenthusiasticwelcome,andovationswereofferedtoherastoasovereign.Solife-like,sohuge,somonstrous;itisreallyafearfulspectacle.Letthereaderimaginethemostbeautifulsultanas,or'lightsoftheharem,'ofwhompoetandartisthaveendeavouredtogivethepresentment,andhisconceptionwillstillfallfarshortoftheenchantingmodelsonwhommygazerested.ItwouldscarcelybepossibleforanyspectaclemorevividlytoaffectthemindthanthatnowpresentedtoMadamedeHell'sastonishedgaze.Theirpersonsareinharmonywiththesurroundings.Thosewhoshouldhavefalleninwithourtwoyoungadventurers,theireagergazerovingeverywhereinquest[Pg70]ofnewdiscoveries,strollinghitherandthitherliketwochildrenoutforaholiday,wouldneverforonemomenthavesupposedthataterriblepestilencewasragingthroughthecity,andnowheremorefatallythanintheverydistrictstheyhadchosenfortheirexplorations.FivemonthslatertherevolutionbrokeoutwhichplacedPrinceKunginpower.Theinvalidityorunenforceabilityofanyprovisionofthisagreementshallnotvoidtheremainingprovisions.Theyreceive,withstoicalresignation,theshowersofcomfitsandbouquetswhichareincessantlyaimedattheirgold-adornedheads.Shewrites:—"To-daywasheldintheQueen'spalaceagreatkabar,whichlastedsixhoursandwasverystormy.TheJapanesecookerywasverygood,thoughsomeof[Pg370]thedisheswerecompoundedofingredientsnotgenerallymixedtogetherbythecooksoftheWest.ThewavesswallowedupLadyHester'streasures,andsheherselfbarelyescapedwithlife.Shebadefarewellto[Pg310]thetribe,turnedherhorse'shead,androdeawayintothewildernessalone.ItowesallitsexcellencetoNature,whichhashere,withoutassistancefromthescienceoftheengineer,providedamagnificentroadstead,thebranchesofwhichformanumberofbasinsadmirablyadaptedfortherequirementsofagreatnavalstation.HereistheirdescriptionofGovat'sLeap,aremarkablevalley,oneofthelionsofNewSouthWales,aboutfivemilesfromMountVictoria:—"WefollowedforaconsiderabledistancethehighroadtoBathurstcutthroughthebush.Bouvier,superintendedtheconstructionofsomevehiclesoftransport,lightenoughtobedrawnbythenomadhorsemen,andyet[Pg278]solidenoughtobeartheaccidentsoftravelinthedesert.Further,itisanislandoffruits.Acertainmeansofensuringfromthemafavourablereceptionistheavoidance,notofvices,butdirt."InNorway,Madamed'AunetvisitedChristiania,Drontheim,andotherlocalities;butitisManratherthanNaturethatinterestsher.Mywordsreassuredhim.AfterherrecoveryshedevotedherselftothestudyofthehabitsandmannersofthetribesdwellingintheneighbourhoodofGondokoro.AfterarapidvisittoCanada,sherecrossedthefrontieroftheUnitedStates;andfromBostonproceededtoNewYorkandothergreatcities,andthenundertookthevoyagetoEngland,whereshearrivedonthe21stofNovember,1854.Asforthe[Pg121]baroness,therewasaboutherportraitasignificantlyhaggardair.OntheroadliesTchang-kia-wang,thesceneofthetreacherousoutragein1858ontheFrenchandEnglishbearersoftruce;andalmostatthegatesofPekin,thegreattownofTung-tcheouandthefamousbridgeofPalikao,where,onthe21stofSeptember,1860,theAnglo-Frencharmydefeated25,000Tartarhorsemen.Broadstepsleadupintoaloftyentrance-hallonthefirstfloor,fromwhich,throughlargeglass[Pg228]doors,thevisitorpassesintothedrawing-roomandotherapartments.Herluxuriantdeepblackhairfelloverherbosomintwomagnificentandremarkablylongtresses.Saunteringthroughitsnarrowstreets,andlookinguponitsmosques,shops,andcemeteries,thetravellerfeelsthattheatmosphereoftheEastisaroundhim.Unquestionably,itsinfluenceonthedestiniesofthehumanracehasbeeninjurious;ithascheckedtheprogressoftheSemiticcivilization.Itisthendepositedongreatwoodentablestocool,andgranulateintocompletecrystalsofaboutthesizeofapin'shead.Afterundergoingsomuchfatigue,itwasnaturalweshoulddesireacompletesuccess.AfterexplainingthemanypointsofcontrastbetweenthepeopleoftheEastandthepeopleoftheWest,shecontinues:—"OfallthevirtuesheldinreputebyChristiansociety,hospitalityistheonlyonewhichtheMussulmansthinkthemselvesboundtopractise.HerfameasthedaughteroftheSultanhadalreadyprecededher,andshewaswelcomedwitheverydemonstrationofrespect."Butnow,"sheexclaimed,"lookattheseruins,thesecrawlingmosses;yondershatteredwall,thegrasswhichhasobliteratedthetracesofmyfootsteps,andagreewithmethatakindofcurseweighsuponthespot.Hetoreoffsomebranchesofplantain,boundthemtogetherwithlongtoughgrass,laidafewleavesuponthem,launchedtheminthewater,andthenrequestedMadamePfeiffertoembark.Blessedwithadispensationfrommilitaryservice,andfarawayfromtheaccustomedbattle-fieldsofEuropeand[Pg102]Asia,theylivedinquiet,knowinglittleofwarexceptwhattraditioncouldfaintlycarrydownfromoldtimesinlowmonotonouschants.Theformershewasunabletogive;thelattershe[Pg116]wouldneverdeny.Adozenattendants,shroudedinwhitemuslin,weregatheredroundthedoor,andregardedthescenewithrespectfulcuriosity."ThepeopleofBroekhaveneitherthetastefor,northeloveof,cleanliness;itiswiththemafanaticism,afetichism."Istheyoungladyincommand,"theysaid,"theSultan'ssister?Icarefullycollectedthem,andreplacedthempiouslyintheirproperreceptacles.TworowsofcarriagesdriveinclosefilealongtheCorso.AtmidnightthevoyagersreachedBeachyHead,andcouldseethelightsofHastingsinthedistance.Sheformedanintimateacquaintancewithnumerousgreatwritersandcelebratedstatesmen,particularlyofMignetandAugustinThierry,whosedailydiminishingliberalismsherapidlyandboldlyoutstripped.deLamartinewashailedasprinceandlord;hewassupposed,Ibelieve,tobelongtotheHouseofOrleans.Itcontainedtwolargedivans,thesilkcushionsofwhichweregaywithgoldandsilverembroidery,carpetsofpaintedfelt,severaltrunks,andaveryprettywork-basket.Hiswifewasasmuchhispropertyasapieceoffurniture;noneofhisneighbourswouldhaveblamed,nolawwouldhavepunishedhim,ifhehadgotridbyanyviolentmeansofhisuselessburden.Buthewasgreatfun;politeasbecameanoldsoldier,fullofcomplimentsandassurancesthat'nowthehappiestdayofhislifehavingcome,hedesiredtolivenolonger,butwasreadyfordeath.'Thevisittookplaceontheshadysideoftheverandah,andthitherIbroughtalargemusicalboxandsetitdownonthegroundtoplay.TheoldmanisthePrinceMichael,herfather,whosefamily,originallyofEpirus,hasforthelasttwocenturiesbeenestablishedintheDanubianPrincipalities,andhassuppliedWallachiawithHospodars.Nothingcouldbemorereasonable.FromGreeleyshehastenedtoFortCollins,withthegrandmassesoftheRockyMountainsfacingherassheadvanced."Thesesavages,"shesays,"weresixfeetinstature,andthenaturaluglinessoftheirfeatureswasincreasedbytheragethatcontortedthem.InChina,perhapsmoreeventhaninEurope,thisisaninevitableformula:thefamousprincipleofnothingfornothingmusthavebeeninventedintheCelestialEmpire.Theymaybemodifiedandprintedandgivenaway--youmaydopracticallyANYTHINGwithpublicdomaineBooks.ItwasherillfatetoinspirewithaviolentpassiononeofthelastoftheCrimeanKhans,whocarriedheroffandmadeherabsolutequeenandmistressofhispalace,inwhichshelivedfortenyears,strugglingbetweenherloveforaninfidel,andthepenitencethatbroughtherprematurelytothegrave.U.S.lawsaloneswampoursmallstaff.Ifthatblackoryellowobjectapproachyou,coveredwithherwhiteveil,andturninyourdirection,itiswithanexpressive,apiercing,questioningglance;butyoucannotdiscovernorevendivinethefaceconcealedbythatcolouredgauze.Inthemidstofallthiswhirlandconfusioncomesabrilliantprocession:itisthegovernorofthecityandtheRomansenate,drivinginagreatnumberofgrandcarriages,withsplendidhorsesandservants;goldandsilvershineout,andliverieswhichappeartobecoveredwithfire.Crossingseveralbrightlittlestreams,itclimbedtothesummitofaneminencewhichcommandedontheonesideaprospectofapicturesquewaterfall,ontheothersideofadeepravine.Itookonlytwopoundsofluggage,someraisins,themailbag,andanadditionalblanketundermysaddle....Itistruethatsherevealsnostormypassions,nowildandwaywardemotions;butshe[Pg142]showsusherself,inallherloveofthingsgoodandbeautiful,inallthebreadthandpurityofhersympathies,inalltheelevationofherthoughts.Andamidthecourtsandgardensoftheoldpalacehemaywellbelievehimselftransportedtoan"interior"inBagdadorAleppo.Thetruthwasthatthepartybelongedtothetribewithwhichshehadalliedherself,andthatthethreatenedattack,aswellasthepretendedapprehensionofanengagement,hadbeencontrivedforthemerepurposeoftestinghercourage."TheimageoftheInfinitepresenteditselftomymindinallitsformidablegrandeur.In1813Nynäswassold,andthefamilyoncemoresettledatArsta.Thenegro[Pg225]wasnowrousedintoaconditionofmaniacalfury;hegnashedhisteethlikeawildbeast,andbrandishedhisknife,whileshoutingfearfulthreats.ThuswastheSabbathobserved,toshoutsoflaughter.Butherloveofaction,hercravingafternewscenes,herthirstforknowledgecouldnotlongberepressed;andasshefeltherselfstillstrongandhealthy,withenergiesaspotentasever,sheresolvedonasecondcircuitoftheglobe.Thegoodfellowunderstoodthatiflonghabithadnotrenderedtheinconveniencesoftheharemtolerabletohimself,itwouldbestillworseforme,freshlydisembarkedfromthatlandofenchantmentsandrefinementswhichmenherecall'Franguistan.'Soattheoutsetheinformedmethathewouldnotrelegatemetothatregionofobscurityandconfusion,smokeandinfection,namedtheharem,butwouldgiveuptomehisownapartment.Lastlyitispouredintowoodencolanders,tofilteritthoroughlyfromthemolassesstillremaining.Shortlybeforeherdeath,shewent,leaningonhernurse'sarm,fromwindowtowindowinherlargesittingroom,asiftakingleaveofthesurroundinglandscapewhichshelovedsodeeply.Inthefruitmarketweremanyfamiliarbright-colouredfruits.Towardseveningthewindfelllight,andwehadtogetupsteam.Wecrawledonhandsandfeet,weglidedlikecats,leapedfromonerocktoanotherlikesquirrels.Gamewasplentiful,andthefowling-piecesofthepartybroughtdownnumerousvictims.Womenofthepeasantclass,dressedasifforaweddingfestival,withbareheads,adornedwithredribbonandgrandornaments,werealsotheprincipalfiguresinmanyofthecarriages....Ofthatfamousandmajesticmountain,whichliftsitswanandagedbrowsome16,000feetabovethesea-level,ourtravellerobtainedanobleview.Hercriticismuponmannersandsocialcustomshasalso,toagreatextent,lostitspowerofapplication.Twoorthreevillageswereseenontheriver-banks,butthelandscapewasbareandsterile,andMissTinnéfeltnoinclinationtodisembarkuntilshereachedMountHunaya.Thetwomen—lithe,tall,andstrong—areseenstandingonthegreenheight,theirlonghairconfinedbyawreathofleavesandflowers,whileasimilarwreathistwistedroundthewaist.TheFrenchlegationwasestablishedinarichyamoun,which,underthepresidinggeniusofMadamedeBourboulon,soonbecomethehighlyrecherchécentreofEuropeansociety.AdditionaltermswillbelinkedtotheProjectGutenberg-tmLicenseforallworkspostedwiththepermissionofthecopyrightholderfoundatthebeginningofthiswork.Itisstillapopulousandwealthycity,with,wesuspect,afuturebeforeitnotlessgloriousthanitspast.WheneverthishappenedIwasinterestedinherconversation."Inreferencetohermodeoflife,sheinformedherguestthatforhersin,orsins,shehadsubjectedherselfduringmanyyearstoseverepenance,andthatherself-denialhadnotbeenwithoutreward.Ididnotlosemyhead,butpretendingtofeelperfectlyassured,Iseatedmyselfonastonecloseathand....NotGreece,withitsmemoriesofpoets,sagesandpatriots;itshauntedvalleysandmysteriousmountain-tops;norItaly,withitsgloriesofartandnature,anditsfootprintsofawarrior-people,oncerulersoftheknownworld,soappealstothethoughtfulmindasdoestheHolyLand,inthefulnessofitssanctityasthehomeanddwelling-placeofJesusChrist.Hisguestshavingrestedforafewminutes,theprinceintroducedthemtohiswifeanddaughter,whohadbeenapprisedoftheirarrival,andwereanxioustoseethem.Thewindwhistled,theLütschinarolleditsgroaningwaters.Trollopethenovelistwemayreasonablygivethereaderanidea.Butstrangestofallisthemannerinwhichtheytinttheeyebrows.These,afterraisingintheair,hehandedtothepriests,whothenstationedthem,unlighted,beforetheBuddhaimages."ItwasthefirsttimeIhadseentheimmenseglacierpopularlycalled'LaMerdeGlace.'Throughthe[Pg32]greencurtainsofthepinewoods,Igazeduponthemassesrisingfromthegulf,thedepthsofwhichareazure-tinted,whilethesurfaceiscoveredwithdirtandblocksofsnow.AtthepointascendedbyMissBirdtheirscenerywasofthegrandestdescription—wonderfulascents,wildfantasticviews,coolandboweryshades,romanticglensechoingmelodiouslywiththefallofwaters.Theirarrivalwasannouncedbyvolleysofmusketry,andBiselli(suchwasthenameofthevakeel)metthemattheentrancetothevillage,andconductedthemtoareallyspaciousandconvenientresidence,wheretheywereimmediatelyservedwithsherbet,coffee,andotherrefreshingdrinks.ThecaravanroutelaythroughthelargefertilevalleyswhichlieatthebaseofArarat.Ariverissuingfromanarrowcleftintherocktakesbutonemadleapfromtheedgeoftheprecipiceintothevalleybelow,aleapof600feet.Moreover,sheseemstohavesufferedinself-appreciation.NightafternightshepassedinthedepthsofthevastBorneanforest,alittlericeheronlyfood—journeyingalldaythroughthickets,whichlaceratedherfeet;swimmingbrooksandriverstoodeeptobeforded;recoilingbeforenoformofdanger,howeverunexpected;andastonishingtheverysavagesbyherdaringandendurance.Andsoshedreamsawaythewarmhoursinsuchacalmofthoughtwithin,andsightorsoundwithout,thatshestartswhenthegold-fishgleamin[Pg65]thefountain,orthebreeze-ruffledrosesshedaleafuponherbosom."—EliotWarburton,"TheCrescentandtheCross,"etc.LetustakeapicturefromNaxos,theislandconsecratedbythelovelylegendofAriadne;itshallbealandscapefittoinspireapoet'ssong:—"VillaSomarivaissituatedontheslopeofamountain,orononeofthemanyterraceswhichareformedfromtheslopes.Thenwecamesuddenlyonhiscabin...Herjudgmentsarealwayssoundandprudent;theadviceshegivesisadvicewhich,foundeduponexperienceandreflection,wecannotrejectwithoutinjury.Section1.Toourgreatalarmthemistroseonallsidessothatweoftenlostsightofthoseofourpartywhowereactingaspioneers.Thebrazieriskickedoverbysomerestlessorcarelessperson,andinamomentthewholeplaceisinablaze."Induetimebrazierandquiltareremoved,anddinnermakesitsappearance.Therewasastrangelightinthefirmamentabove,aglowinthewavebeneath,suchasshehadnotseenelsewhere;foritwaswithopenhandsthatNaturepouredoutherdoweruponTahiti.Ifyoureceivedtheworkelectronically,thepersonorentityprovidingittoyoumaychoosetogiveyouasecondopportunitytoreceivetheworkelectronicallyinlieuofarefund.Likechamois,however,theyscrambledupthesteep[Pg246]mountainside,andsafelycarriedtheirridersroundfrightfulpromontoriesandpastdangerousanddizzyprecipices.Thetunicswereopenanddisclosedbeneaththemcashmererobes,withverytightsleevesterminatingingoldfringes."Thewives,"hereplied,inhisbadFrench,andwithanairofsovereigncontempt,"pasbon,pasbon,bambou,bambou!"Thestickseemstobetheonly,oratleastthefavourite,argumentoftheChineseintheirdealingswiththeothersex;andinthiscontemptforwomenweshallprobablyfindthecauseofthemoralrottennessoftheCelestialEmpire.Farfromdiminishing,hisprodigalityincreased;andhisEuropeanguestsfeltalmosthumiliatedatbeingtheobjectsofsoboundlessahospitality."Thethoughtofherunhappyfortune,"saysMadamedeHell,"investedeverythingwebeheldwithamagiccharm.In1830LadyMorgan'sfecundpencompiledasecondbookuponFrance,which,indeed,seemedtoexistinorderthatLadyMorganmightwriteuponit.TheyaregenerallymadeofrootsbroughtfromAsia.Herethemirysoilthroughwhichtheirhorseshadlabouredwithmuchdifficulty,andthegreysky,andthemoistatmospherethathadhithertoaccompaniedthem,wereatonceexchangedforadryair,cold,dust,andsunshine.LadyBrasseyaddsthattherewasyetanothershade,whichcanbedescribedonlybytheterm"moltenlavacolour."Thewreathsandwheelingcloudsofsmokeandvapourwerebyalltheseborrowedlightsandtintstranslatedintobeautifulgleamingmist-likecreations—belongingneithertoearthnorair,butbornofthemoltenflameandseethingfire—whichseemedsplendidlyandappropriatelydisplayedagainsttheamphitheatreofblackpeaks,pinnacles,andcragsrisinginthebackground.PeterBöklin,andafterwardsproceedingtoCopenhagen.WhenwestrucktheMerdeGlace,wefellinwithsomanygapingfissuresthatwecouldcrossthemonlybyhazardousleapsandbounds.MadamedeBaluseck'ssuiteconsistedofaRussianphysician;aFrenchwaitingmaid;aLamainterpreter,namedGomboï;andaCossack(asescort).InSwedensheshoneasagreatstarintheliteraryfirmament;andsheappearstohavebeenunderanimpressionthatherfamewouldhaveprecededherintoothercountries,andensuredheratriumphalreceptioninanytownsheentered;butGermanyshowedherverylittleattention,andhencesheseesitinaveryunfavourablelight.Serratedridges,notmuchlowerthanthatonwhichwestood,rose,onebeyondanother,farasthatpureatmospherecouldcarrythevision,brokenintoawfulchasmsdeepwithiceandsnow,risingintopinnaclespiercingtheheavenlybluewiththeircold,barrengrey,on,onforever,tillthemostdistantrangeupboreunsulliedsnowalone.ACircassianwomanisneverawkward.Thecreamwaspouredintoaleathernbottle,androlledaboutonthegrounduntilconsolidatedintobutter,whichwasthentransferredtoabottlefilledwithwater,andeventuallyturnedoutaswhiteassnow.Thewoman-dealerhasfoundamongthemountainsthatperfectioninalivingformwhichPraxitelesscarcelyrealized,wheninspiredfancywroughtoutitsidealinmarble.Theknave,presumingontheirnecessity,chargedfortytimesmorethanthepriceofdourraatKhartûm,andoneveryotherarticleheputinlikemannerataxoffortyorfiftypercent.TheProjectGutenbergEBookofCelebratedWomenTravellersoftheNineteenthCentury,byW.Ononesideofthelaketheprincipalobjectofattackwasanisland,darkandcraggy,againstwhichthelava-wavesrolledwithimpetuousfury.Theschoolmaster,acrabbedChinaman,scaredbymypresence,placedhimselfonthethreshold,andlookedasifhewouldnotallowmetoenter.Astheroseofdawnblushesoneachwavingcrestinthebirth-houroftheday,orthepurplesplendourinveststheminregalrobeswhenthesungoesdown,theyseemtorevealtousavisionoftheotherworld;thosechanginglightsthatfalluponthemaresurelythepassinggleamsofwingsofangels;thosemysticvoicesthatlingeramongtheirechoes,whatcantheybebutthedivinechordsofthatgloriousharmonywhichforevergoesuparoundthe"greatwhitethrone"?Herrevelations,undersuchcircumstances,werealwaysofdeepinterest.[Pg313]AlphonsedeLamartine,theFrenchpoet,orator,andmanofletters,obtainedadmissiontoherpresence,thoughnotwithoutdifficulty,in1832,whenshewasstandingonthethresholdofoldage.ItissaidthatwhenaDyakhaspromisedahead—ahumanhead—tothewomanheloves,hewillobtainitatanycost.What,then,mustitbeintheheightofsummer!Theofficersallagreeinsayingthattheyhaveneverfeltanythinglikeit,eveninthehottestpartsofIndiaorthetropics....Theirlargemouths,withprojectingteeth,resembledthejawofawildbeast.Thelattercountryhasneverenjoyedagoodreputationamongtravellers,andMadamePfeiffer'sexperienceofitconfirmeditsevilfame.Thenwestoppedtobreathethehorsesandtorepairdamages,generallyfindingthat[Pg350]atracehadgivenway,orthatsomeotherpartoftheharnesshadshownsignsofweakness.Herhusbandwasunworthyofher.Aboutonehourafternoon,thecaravanarrivedatSha-ho,avillagesituatedbetweenthetwoarmsofariverofthesamename(whichmeans"theriverofsand").ThePrincessHelenaKoltzoff-Massalsky,betterknownbyherpseudonymofDorad'Istria,[1]cameofthefamilyoftheGhikas,formerlyprincesofWallachia,andwasbornatBucharest,onthe22ndofJanuary,1829.Toprovideforhischild-wifeheobtainedanofficeintherailwayadministration,butonlytemporarily,foralreadyhehadmadeuphismindtoseekfortuneandreputationinsomeforeigncountry.Themountains,Mauna[Pg360]KeaandMaunaLoa,couldbeplainlyseenfromtoptobottom,theirgiantcrestsrisingnearly14,000feetaboveourheads,theirtreeandfinecladslopesseamedwithdeepgulchesorravines,downeachofwhichafertilizingriverranintothesea.Healmostwentdownonhiskneesbeforeher;hisattentionswereunremitting.Sheequippedherselfinacostumeofherowndevising,welladaptedfortheworkshehadtodo;andprotectedherheadwithalargebananaleaffromtheburningraysofatropicalsun.Endowed,moreover,withanheroicwill,shelovedtheheroicinhistoryandpoetry.AccordingtoM.Herfundshavingbeenaugmentedbyagrantof1,500florinsfromtheAustrianGovernment,shequittedViennaonthe18thofMarch,1851,proceededtoLondon,andthencetoCapeTown,whereshearrivedonthe11thofAugust.ThekinginvitesM."Wewerenow,"writesMadamedeHell,"inanenchantedregion,thoughbutjustbeyondthevergeofthesteppes.Herethrivesthedelectablemangosteno,whichalmostmeltsinthemouth,andenchantsthepalatewithitsexquisiteflavour."Alittlelowerthanthesetallqueensofthecoral-islesrisefairy-likecanopiesofgracefultree-ferns,oftenfestoonedwithmostdelicatelianas;andthereareplaceswherenottheseonly,butthelargertrees,areliterallymattedtogetherbythedensegrowthofthebeautiful[Pg449]large-leavedwhiteconvolvulus,orthesmallerlilacipomaæ,whichtwinesroundthetallstemsofthepalms,andoverspreadsthelightfrondslikesomegreenwaterfall.Shewasfullyconvincedthattheycouldacquireallkindsofknowledgewithasmuchfacilityasmen;thattheyoughttostandonthesamelevel,andtopreparethemselvesinthepublicschoolsanduniversities,tobecomelecturers,professors,judges,physicians,andofficialfunctionaries.Icireposesoncorps,Retirédel'abîme.Itmay,wefeelsure,beaccomplishedwitheaseandcomfortbyladiesunprovidedwithservantsorescort."Thesisterswereinsatiableinthepursuitofinformation,andtheirbookaffordsatolerablycomprehensiveviewoftheeconomicandsocialconditionsoftheAustraliancolonies.Toomuchcontactwithshippingandgrog-shopshas,ofcourse,gonefartodeterioratethem,andtakeoffthefreshnessoflife;butaSouthSeacrowdisalwaysmadeupofgroupspleasanttotheeye;andapartyofgirlsdressedinlonggracefulsacquesofpalesea-green,ordelicatepink,purewhite,orbrightcrimson,chattingandlaughingastheyrollupminutefragmentsoftobaccoinstripsofpandameoorbananatosupplytheinevitablecigarette,isalwaysattractive."ThestarswerepalinginthefirmamentwhenIopenedmywindow.Thecollofrope,onwhichCaptainLeckyandMabellewereseated,wascompletelyfloatedbythesea.IhaveawifewhomIhavelovedfornearlyfortyyears,andIshallmakenosecondchoice."ThemanwhospokethuswasaTurk.Whenthedrawingswerefinished,acollationwasserved,consistingoffruitsandcheese-cakes.However,onreachingthethresholdsheturnedback,anddesiredtoknowwhathadinducedtheEuropeanladytoremainunmarried.Thepipingcallofthecheerfuljacamarwaschangedatintervalsforthedeep,fullnoteofthered-billedshrike,ashesathiddeninthethicket;brightyellowweaver-birdstwitteredincrowdsontheboughs,whilstfromthedepthoftheshadecamethecooingmurmuroftheturtle-dove.ItisNatureonlythatpreserveshercharacter.AtPalmyrashehaddreamedofacareerwhichshouldemulatethatofZenobia.Theacclivitywewereclimbingwasverysteep,buthavingquittedthebarerocks,wenolongerrananyriskofsliding.TowardstheendofthemonthMadamePfeiffergazeduponthesterilecliffsandbarrenmountainsofPatagonia,andnextuponthevolcanicrocks,wave-wornandwind-beaten,ofFire-Land,orTierradelFuego.Herwaywardandwilfulnaturewassubduedbytheinfluenceoflove;andatthecostofnotafewtears,sherenouncedherchildish

capricesinordertopleasehim,andoccupiedherselfwiththepursuitsshehadpreviouslyregardedsocontemptuously.Forsuchadelaytheywereunprepared,havingcalculatedonagoodsupperandagoodbedthatnightunderafriendlyroofinRostov.InChinanothingtakesplacewithoutadisplayoffireworks.TherearedelightfulpagesinMissBremer's"Greece[Pg180]andtheGreeks";thekeenpleasureshefeltintheclassicandlovelyscenesaroundhersheknowshowtocommunicatetoherreaders;herliteraryskillputsthembeforeusinalltheirfreshnessofcolourandpurityofatmosphere."Sherises,andherfirsthourisspentinthescrupulouslynicearrangementofherdress;shedescendstoherparlourneat,stiff,andsilent;herbreakfastisbroughtinbyherfreeblackfootman;sheeatsherfriedbeanandhersaltfish,anddrinkshercoffeeinsilence,whileherhusbandreadsonenewspaper,andputsanotherunderhiselbow;andthen,perhaps,shewashesthecupsandsaucers.Itwasthefirsttime,shesays,thatshehadbeenaloneinthemidstofthatgreattown.Theguidesappearedmeditative,andsoughttoreadinmyeyesifmyfirmnesswererealorassumed.Thewholeexpanseofthisnobleharbouriscommandedfromtheupperpartofthetown.AsshecouldnowhereinItalyhopeforasecureresting-place,sheresolvedtoresideforthefutureintheEast,and,repairingtoConstantinople,shefoundedthereabenevolentinstitutionforthedaughtersofemigrants.IntheroomintowhichLadyBrasseywasintroducedwasraised,ononeside,aslightdaïs,aboutfourinches[Pg369]fromthefloor,asaseatofhonour.ThemoralstandardofthepopulationhasnotbeenraisedsincetheycameundertheshadowofaFrenchprotectorate."Toseeourselvesasothersseeus"isalwaysinstructiveandinteresting;andasketchofMadamedeBourboulonbytheChinesewouldnotbelessvaluablethanasketchoftheChinesebyMadamedeBourboulon.[Pg271]FortunehadnotbeenkindtoMadamedeBourbouloninthrowingherintoShanghaiduringthegreatTaïpingconspiracy,andcompellinghertobeaneye-witnessofthecrimeswhichsulliedit.Inthesummerof1856sheaccordinglyvisitedSwitzerland.Thesnowwashard,andaswedidnotsinkfarintoit,ourmarchwaslessfatiguing.Oneofthesemagicianshadtheaddresstopersuadethenegroesofhisimmortality,andextractedfromthemamplepresentsofoxen,sheep,andthelike.Seeingherinthesemi-masculinecostume,studyinggeology,painting,music,andpoetry,withouttheshadowofapretension,onecouldnothelpaskingoneselfinwhatmysteriousdramaherstrangeexistencehadbeeninvolved.AllIcansayis,thatLadyHestergavehersanctiontothepracticebythehabitualuseofthelongOrientalpipe,whichusedatedfromtheyear1817,orthereabouts."Afterthatwemountedfreshmules,androdeupthevalley,bytherunningwater,tothepointwhereitgushesfromthehill,orrathermountain,side—aclearstreamofconsiderablepower.DoctorHeughlin,whohadstartedinadvanceasakindofpioneer,passed,onthe31stofJanuary,theJebelTefafan,aloftymountainwhichrisesatnogreatdistancefromtheriver.Wewouldfainhavepersuadedourselvesthatweweremistaken,butthetruthwasbeyonddispute;therebeforeusrolledtheDon,andyonderstoodAxai,thevillagethroughwhichwehadpassedafterreseatingourselvesinthebritchka.LetustakeherdescriptionoftheSphinx—theSphinxthatforsomethousandsofyearshasheldmutecompanionshipwiththeGreatPyramids:—"Thefullserenegazeofitsroundface,rendereduglybythelossofthenose,whichwasaveryhandsomefeatureoftheoldEgyptianface—thisfullgaze,andthestonycalmofitsattitudealmostturnonetostone.ThetrueshadeofthePampasgrass,whenlong,isalightdustygreen;whenshort,itisabrightfreshgreen.Theguidescalledsuchplacesmines,andfearedthemgreatly.Duringthelastdaysofherlife,opiateswereadministeredtorelieveherphysicalpain;andinthenightbetweenthe27thandthe28thofOctober,shepassedawaypeacefully,almostasonewhosleeps.ShearrivedattheBraziliancapitalonthe[Pg224]16thofSeptember,andremainedthereforupwardsoftwomonths,exclusiveofthetimedevotedtoexcursionsintotheinterior.Intheautumnshepublishedher"ForestandGameLaws";andinthefollowingyearshemadeajourneytotheEast,andascendedtheriverNile,recordingherexperiencesinthebookwhichhasledustointroduceheramongourfemaletravellers—"EasternLife,PastandPresent,"aremarkablebook,givingafreshinteresttothebeatentrackofEasterntravelandresearch,andbreathingvitalityintothedrybonesofChampollini,Wilkinson,andLane.ThiswassufficienttoconvertAbhulintoherdevotedslave.OflateyearsTamatavéhasgrownintoaplaceofmuchcommercialimportance,butinMadamePfeiffer'stimeitwasbutapoor,thoughaverylargevillage,withbetween4,000and5,000inhabitants."Ourcaptivityhadlastednearlyafortnight:wehadpassedthirteenlongdaysinthemostpainfuluncertaintyastoourfate,expectingeverymomentafataldecision,andtremblingdayandnightattheslightestsound.Atlength,onthe12thofSeptember,shearrivedatTamatavé;brokendown,andunutterablywearyandworn,butstillalive.MadamedeHellwasundertheinfluenceofasubtlespell;herquickfancywasprofoundlyimpressedbythepicturesqueaspectsofOrientallife,byitsglowofcolourandgraceofform,sodifferentfromthecommonplaceandmonotonousrealitiesoftheWest.Idonotknowmyself.TheMarseillaisedefiedheropponentstoproduceanywrittendocumentintheirfavour,andshewonhercause.Within,thewholesceneimpressedtheimaginationstrongly,whilewithout,butclosebesideus,resounded,likethunder,theavalancheswhichscatteredtheirruinsoverourheads,orplungedheadlongintofathomlessgulfs.[Pg37]"Somewhiteheifer-skinswerelaiddownunderablockwhichformedakindofrecessatthefartherendofthegrotto.Villemain,thenMinisterofState.Imadeaparcelofmysilkpetticoatandmyboots(brodequins),andgaveittoaporter,sothatImightresorttothemifIshouldbecompletelyparalyzedbythoseaccursedgarmentswhichIfoundsoinconvenient.Dinner,concert,ballweregivenintheirhonour;"nothingwaswanting,noteventhepolka."Thelargenumberof[Pg296]politicalexilesalwaysresidingherehasintroducedintothemidstoftheSiberiandesertstheurbanityofthebestsociety;nearlyalltheladiesspeakFrench.OneofthebestbooksonEasternlifeinEnglishliteratureweowetothepenofaremarkablewoman,whosereputation,basedasitisonmanyotherworksofsingularability,wemaytaketobeofapermanentcharacter—MissHarrietMartineau.Abritchka,drawnbythreecamels,andcarryingMonsieurandMadamedeHell,ledthevan;thencameatroopoffourorfiveCossacks,armedtotheteeth,andseveralKalmuksguidingatrainofcamelsloadedwithbaggage.Herreputationspreadwithgreatrapidity,andwasextendedandconfirmedbytheworkswhichproceededinswiftsuccessionfromherfertilepen.Having"lookedin"atBandaandAmboyna,MadamePfeifferquittedtheMoluccas,andhavingobtainedagratuitouspassageacrossthePacific,sailedforCalifornia.Butatlengththekeysareturnedintherustylocks,theguardianofthefirstenclosureoffersustea,andwedistributesomemoneyamongtheattendants...."Wemarchedwithoutanyattemptatorder,andthepeopleofGrindelwaldcarriedourbaggageasarelieftoourporters.Hertastesforliterarypursuitsshehasherselfascribedtotheextremedelicacyofherhealthinchildhood;totheinfirmityofdeafness,which,whilenotsocompleteastodebarherfromallsocialintercourse,yetcompelledhertoseekoccupationsandpleasuresnotdependentuponothers;andtotheaffectionwhichsubsistedbetweenherandthebrothernearestherownage,theRev.LeavingChathamonthe1stofJuly,1876,sheranoffBeachyHeadonthe[Pg342]followingevening,droppedanchoroffCowesnextmorning,andearlyonthe6thpassedthroughtheNeedles.Allatoncetheimpetuousanimalwouldcrawlonitsbelly,orrearinamannerthatmadethespectatorsshriekwithterror,then,plungingforwardinamadgallop,hewoulddashthroughthestartledherd,seekingbyeverypossiblemeanstoridhimselfofhisunaccustomedburden.FromthesultryheatoftheEastshenextbetookherselftothesullencoldoftheNorth;andtheresultofherwanderingsin1846wasalivelybookuponScandinaviaandIceland,describingperilswhichfewmenwouldcaretoconfront,withevidentlyunaffectedenjoyment.Indeed,sheseemstohavecherishedanabundantscornofeverythingapproachingtoexquisitenessor"æstheticism."Nextday,atherrequest,hepaidherasecondvisit.Inthefollowingpassagesheparticularizes,fromherpointofview,thedifferencebetweentheEnglishandAmericancharacter:—"BrotherJonathanandJohnBull,"shesays,"havethesamefather,butnotthesamemother.Alargeandliberaleducationdevelopedthesenaturalpowers,whichwereinthemselvesremarkable,andas[Pg303]shegrewuptowomanhoodhersagaciousestimatesofpolicyandhersoundjudgmentofmenandthingssecuredherrespectinthehighestpoliticalcircles.Asevereattackoffeverdetainedherforseveraldays.Onetrembleswiththesenseofadireterrificpower,whichatanymomentmayleapintotheclay,andsweeptheshatteredisland[Pg364]intodestruction."Thepeasants,seatedontheground,smoketheirpipesinpeace,whiletheagedmulesandbare-skinnedasses,whichhaveconveyedtheirwares,wanderaboutthemarket-place,gleaninghereandtheresomevegetablerefuse.MadamedeBourboulonfeltcapableofanequalamountofcourage,andthoughaccustomedtoliveamidalltheluxuriesandcomfortsofEuropeancivilization,desiredtoencountertheseprivations,andtobravetheseperils.Thenbelow,wherethetrailwaslockedintoadeepcanyon,wheretherewasscarcelyroomforitandtheriver,therewasabeautyofanotherkindinsolemngloom.Heimmediatelyorderedhiswifetodesist,andthetravellerwasatpeace.InabouttwohoursIwasawakenedbyatremendousweightofwatersuddenlydescendinguponmeandfloodingthebed.Thisshefilledwithalargeretinueofdragomen,women,slaves,andAlbanianguards.Atlengthshewasfreetoindulgeherlong-cherishedinclinations.Iamneitherforthepeoplenorthegreat,butforallhumanity;andIamunabletobelievethateitheraristocraticordemocraticinstitutionspossesstheexclusivevirtueofraisinghumanitytothehigheststandard.Thewindowswerecurtainless,andthefeltwithwhichoneofthemwascoveredwasheldinitsplacebyafaggot-stick,stucktightlyin,fromcornertocornerdiagonally.Itisnotdifficulttounderstandtheeffectwhich,onawarmimaginationandsensitivetemperament,thatrichly-colouredpanoramaof"theislesofGreece,"andthatexquisiteprospectofConstantinopleandtheGoldenHorn,wouldnecessarilyproduce.Itbroughtuponhernosmallamountofabuseandcontumely,manyofthosewhohadpreviouslyreceivedherwithprofessedadmirationjoiningintheclamourraisedagainstherbytheslave-holdersandtheirpartisans."Theheavens,"sheexclaims,"declarethegloryofGod,andthefirmamentshewethHishandiwork.Theymetatoncewithafavourablereception.PetticoatsandchignonsaremaleinstitutionsinCeylon."Withindefatigableenergyofmindandbody,MadamePfeiffervisitedColomboandKandy,thechieftownsoftheisland.AmongtheBarisorcerersaninfluentialpositionisheldbythe"rain-maker,"andthevillagerslavishuponhim,indaysofdrought,giftsofoxen,fruitsandtrinkets,asaninducementtoevokefromthecloudstheirtreasuresofgenialrain.Allabouttheareaarescatteredaltars,statues,vasesofflowers,censers,andcandelabra.Thebottomoftheircanoewascoveredwithbranches,amongstwhichtheashesofarecentfireweredistinguishable.Sheacceptednothingfortheexistenceofwhichshecouldnotaccountbycausesintelligibletoherownmind.ShestudiedtheFrenchpoetswithassiduity,andhergreatambitionwastovisitFrance,littlethinkingthatshewouldonedaybecome[Pg123]FrenchbyhermarriagewiththeillustriousFrenchwriter."MyviewsoftheCreatorareverydifferent.AsingularcustomprevailsamongtheChiliansonthedeathofalittlechild.Hesaidthatcuriosityimpelledhimtofollowusaslongashecould,thathemightformsomeideaofthewayinwhichweweregoingtogetoutoftheaffair.SheresolvedonseekingitamidtheglowingplainsofSyria;andwiththisviewembarkedonboardanEnglishmerchant-vessel,[Pg306]whichshehadloadedwithherproperty,withpearlsofconsiderablevalue,andwithalargeamountofcostlypresentsdesignedtopurchasethehomageorallegianceoftheSyriantribes.Wehaveallreadofitin'TheThousandandOneNights,'andotherOriental[Pg54]stories;wehavebeentoldthatitisthedwelling-placeofLoveandBeauty;weareauthorizedtobelievethatthewrittendescriptions,thoughexaggeratedandembellished,areneverthelessfoundeduponreality,andthatinthismysteriousretreataretobefoundallthemarvelsofluxury,art,magnificenceandpleasure.InthefollowingyeartheyweremadeknowntotheBritishpublic,throughthelaboursofWilliamandMaryHowitt;andthereceptionaccordedtothemwasasenthusiasticascouldbedesired.Whattortureofthebodycanequalthetortureofthesoul?"Thisperiodofmylife,"wroteMadamedeHell,afterwards,"spentinthemidstofthesteppes,remotefromanytown,appearstomenowinsocalm,tender,andserenealight,thattheslightestmemorialofitmovesmeprofoundly.Inthemiddleblazesapeacockofpreciousstones.But,inorderthatshemayfitlyexploreit,sheneeds,whatshetoooftenfailstopossess,aknowledgeoflanguagesandofhistory,aswellasthecapabilityofconformingherselftothedifferenthabitudesofnations,andthefacultyofenduringgreatfatigues.SomeofthescenesmayfairlybecreditedwithhavingsuggestedtoDickensthetoneandsentimentofhisAmericanpicturesin"MartinChuzzlewit."Herbestnovel,"TheVicarofWrexhill"—ahighly-colouredportraitofanAnglicanTartuffe,bitterinitsprejudices,butfulloftalent—appearedin1837;the"RomanceofVienna,"anattackoncastedistinctions,in1838.Buttheboatmensoonthrewtothewindstheirpromises,relaxedtheirefforts,andallowedthecaravantopushaheadofthem,replyingtoallreproachesthattheirworkwasarduous,andthesun'sheatexcessive.Havingallowed[Pg75]MadamedeHellafewminutestoadmireher,theprincessslowlydescendedthestepsoftheplatform,approachedwithadignifiedbearing,tookherbythehand,embracedheraffectionately,andledhertotheseatshehadjustvacated.Astheyadvanced,shenoticedthatthefruittreesdisappeared,andthatinsteadtheslopeswerecoveredwithplantains,tarros,andmarantas,thelastattainingaheightoftwelvefeet,andgrowingsoluxuriantlythatitwaswithsomedifficultythetravellermadeherwaythroughthetangle.Theiroutlines,sharplymarkedagainstthesky,produceacuriousandstrikingeffectamidsttheprofoundsolitude.Oftheselattertheflatnoses,obliqueeyes,andbadlyproportionedfiguresexcitedisgust,andtheyareasdifferentfromapure-bredTchuelcheasaracerisfromanordinarycart-horse.EveryhouseinNikosiapossessesaluxuriantgarden,andthebazaarsarefestoonedwithvines;butthewholeplacewears,notwithstanding,anairof[Pg375]desolation,ruin,anddirt.Onthe29thofSeptember,1853,shearrivedatSanFrancisco.Occasionally,however,sheventuresonaveinofreflection,andnotwithoutsuccess.Whenshehadrecruitedherphysicalandmentalenergies,shereturnedtoCairo.Astheyascendedtheyfoundthatthepinesgrewsmallerandmoresparse,andthelaststragglerswore"atortured,waninglook."Theforestthresholdwascrossed;butyetalittlehigheraslopeofmountainmeadowdippedtothesouth-west,towardsabrightstreamtricklingundericeandicicles;andthere,inagroveofthebeautifulsilverspruce,ourtravellersresolvedtoencampforthenight.Inthecourseoftheafternoon,thecaptainofanEnglishman-of-wararrivedatDjoun,andLadyHester[Pg325]resolvedonreceivinghimforthesamereasonasthatwhichhadgovernedherreceptionofMr.Kinglake,namely,anearlyintimacywithhisfamily.Thenwasrepeatedthebadnewswhichhadalreadydiscouragedourtravellers,anditseemedclearthattheywouldhavetospendsomehoursinthebritchka,exposedtothechillnightair,while,onceontheotherside,theycouldreachRostovinacoupleofhours.Therewerecagesfullofsmallflamingoes,snipeofvariouskinds,andagreatmanybirdsofsmallersize,withfeathersofallshadesofblue,red,andgreen,andmetallichuesofbrilliantlustre,besidesparrots,macaws,cockatoosinnumerable,andtorchasonstands.MadamePfeifferalsopaidavisittotheTroudeCerf,or"Stag'sHole,"acraterofperfectlyregularformation,brimfulofbloomandfoliage.Ofitslivelinessandpungencywemaygive,however,aspecimen;herdescriptionoftheday'savocationsofaPhiladelphianladyofthefirstclass:—"Thislady,"shesays,"shallbethewifeofasenator[Pg388]andalawyerinthehighestreputeandpractice.TheTyroleantookleaveofus,convincedatlastthatIshouldgetoutoftheaffair.This,however,provedinsufficientguidance;andatlast,asthehorsesbegantomisstheirfooting,theirsolechanceofsafetyconsistedinstandingstill.Stately-crestedpalmswavedhighabovetheothertrees,whichintertwiningtheirinextricableboughs,formedtheloveliestfairy-bowersimaginable;everystem,everybranch,wasgarlandedwithfantasticorchids;whilefernsandcreepersglidedupthetall,smoothtrunks,minglingwiththeboughs,andspreadingineverydirectionwavingcurtainsofflowersofthe[Pg226]rarestfragranceandvividesthuesimaginable."OnFriday...Theyhavethickjet-blackhairandfinedarkeyes.Onewillcloseitwiththeconvictionthatthewriterisacourageous,lively,andintelligentwoman,whocanrideacrosscountrywithafirmhand,andholdherowninanydangerousornovelposition.Intheinterval,heraunt,theBaronessvanCapellan,haddied(May,1864).Thedeathofherfatherwhileshewasstillachild,madehertheheiressofvastwealth;butshewasfortunateinhavinginhermotheraprudentandsagaciousguardian,whowascarefulthathereducationshouldinallrespectsbeworthyofherposition.Amongthecrowdofladytravellerstowhomthisnineteenthcenturyhasgivenbirth,theableandaccomplishedFrenchwoman,sowidelyknownbyherpseudonymofMadameLéonied'Aunet,meritsapassingallusion.Whowillrefuseatributeofadmirationtothecourage,self-reliance,andintrepidityofthisremarkablewoman?IaminJerusalem;IdwelluponthehillofZion—thehillofKingDavid.Hernamehasbeenhighlyhonouredinhertwosurvivingsons,AnthonyandThomasAdolphusTrollope,bothofwhomhaveattainedtoaplaceofdistinctioninEnglishliterature.Almerhadevencoveredhisfacewithagreenveil,butmineIfoundinconvenient,andresolutelyexposedmyskintotheburningraysofthesun,whichwerereflectedfromtheglitteringfrozensurfaces,thoughthesunitselfwashiddenbyclouds.Heworeahunter'sbuckskinsuit,ornamentedwithbeads,andapairofverybigbrassspurs.Weendeavouredtoquickenoursteps,inordertoreach,beforenightfall,animmensecavernknownonlytotwoofourchamoishunters,whomadeuseofitasahiding-placewhentheirunconquerablepassionforheroicadventurestemptedthemtodisregardthecantonalregulations.Thisprincipaltempleissurroundedbynumeroussmallersanctuaries,eachdecoratedwithimagesofdeities,rudelywrought,buta-glowwithgoldandvividcolours.TheytraversedRayan,andinduetimearrivedatNijni-Novgorod,justattheseasonofitsfamousfair,whichinimportanceequalsthatofLeipzig,andinvarietyofinterestsurpassesit.Inthelastmonthsofhislife,whenhewasstrickenbyamortaldisease,andsinkingundertheburdenofpoliticaldisaster,shewasassiduousinherattendanceuponhim;anditwastoher,afterthememorablebattleofAusterlitz,headdressedthosehistoricwords,sopatheticintheirexpressionoffailure,"Rollupthatmap(themapofEurope),itwillnotbewantedthesetwoyears."AfterthedeathofMr.Pitt,LadyHesterabandonedthegayandpolishedsocietyofwhichshehadbeenanacknowledgedornament,andquittedEngland."IgotalightandproceededtomopupasbestIcould,andthenendeavouredtofindadryplacetosleepin.Ifitwerepossiblebyanyamountofphysicalpaintostillandsilencetheagonyofconscience,whowouldnotendureit?Soprofoundanobscurityprevailedthere,thatatfirsthecouldscarcelydistinguishthenoble,grave,sweet,yetmajesticfeaturesofthewhitefigurewhich,clothedinOrientalcostume,rosefromhercouch,andextendedtohimherhands.Meanwhile,theprosaiccharacterofherdailylifesheknewhowtorelievebyprivatelyindulgingindreamsoftravel,ofadventureinfarlands,andexplorationinislesbeyondthesunset.Itwasmid-October,butvegetationstillretaineditsfreshness.Itincludesapanoramaofthetownasitrises,tierupontier,againstthebackgroundoftheslopinghills.Thegorgeopened,andthismountain-girdledlakelaybeforeme,withitsmarginbrokenupintobaysandpromontories,mostpicturesquelyclothedbyhugesugar-pines."[Pg420]FromLakeTaborMissBirdreturnedtoTruckee,andstartedonanotherexcursionwhichbroughtherwithinviewoftheGreatSaltLakeandtheMormontownofOgden,andthencetoCheyenne,intheStateofWyoming.Storieswithapurposeareseldomacceptabletothegeneralpublic,and"Hersha"istheleastpopularofFrederikaBremer'sworks,thoughitisthemostcarefullyandartisticallywrought.Thesuspense,thelongjourney,thecombinedmentalandphysicalsufferingswhichshehadundergone,andtheravagesoffever,reducedhertoaconditionofsuchweaknessthat,atonetime,herrecoveryseemedimpossible.Herviewoflifeanditsresponsibilitieswasaseriousone,andsheaddressedallherenergiesto[Pg18]theworkofself-improvementandself-culture.Ontheirreturn,theindefatigablecouplestartedonavoyagetotheEast,visitingConstantinople,thecityofgildedpalacesandmosques,ofharemsandromance;andskimmingthesunnywatersoftheBosphorusandtheGoldenHorn."Itistrue,"shesays,"wewereunabletovisitanyofthegreatcentresofpopulation,ortotravelamongsttheindependenttribes,butwesawseveralaoulsonthebanksoftheKouban,andwereentertainedinaprincelyfamily,andnowheredidwemeetwithanyofthosesurpassingbeautieswhommorefortunatetravellershavecelebrated."Whatshedidobserveinthosedaughtersofthemountainswastheeleganceoftheirshapeandthe[Pg89]naturalgraceoftheirmovements.Eventhefreethinkercannotgazewithoutemotionontheshrinesofareligionwhichhassolargelyaffectedthedestiniesofhumanityandthecurrentsoftheworld'shistory.Awoman,aMarseillaisebybirth[Pg62]butmarriedtoaMussulman,wasengagedinalaw-suitonsomematterwhichIhaveforgotten;butIknowthatheradversariesgroundedtheirhopesandpretensionsonadocumentwhichtheyhadplacedinthejudge'shands.RarelywentthitheranyonefromParis,orVienna,orBerlin;toreachitfromLondonwasahardertaskthantocrosstheAtlantic;andamanofofficereceivinginthisdistantprovincehisordersdespatchedfromSt.Petersburg,wastheservantofmasterswhogovernedhimfromadistanceofathousandmiles.Thesteepmountainsideswerecoveredwithrichgreenswards,whichaffordedabundantpastureforthescatteredflocksofgoats.[Pg184]MADEMOISELLEALEXINATINNÉ.Butbydegreescloudsgatheredonthehorizon:hersubjects,ifevertheywerehersubjects,grewimpatientofarulewhichdidnotfulfiltheirlongingsaftermilitaryempire.TothiswemayaddthatMadamePfeiffer,thoughanaccurate,isnotaprofoundobserver.Theywereonthepointofcompliance,asamereactofcivility,whenanAmericanmissionary,whowasoneofthevisitors,roughlysnatchedthemfromtheirhands,andgavethembacktothepriests,protestingthatsuchcompliancewasidolatrous.Thoughpossessingnotmorethan23,000inhabitants,itisabusyandalivelytown;andhere,asatKiakhta,thenumberofexilesgivesacertaintoneandelevationtothesocialcircle.Anothergame,tarua,resemblestheCanadiansportof"tobogonning,"onlyitiscarriedonuponthegrassinsteadofuponthefrozensurfaceofthesnow.Asabitofcolourtheyareglorious,butasavegetableIcannotlearntolikethem,whichisperhapsaswell,asthenativeproverbsaysthattheforeignerwhodoesappreciatefacescanneverstayawayfromTahiti.Theperformersstanderectonanarrowplank,turnedupinfront,whichtheyguidewithakindofpaddle.Mywrist,exposedbetweenthegloveandtheedgeofthesleeve,isornamentedwitharegularswellinglikeabraceletallroundthearm;inaword,wherevertheenemyhasbeenabletopenetrate,hehaswroughtindescribableravage....Buttheyouthfulhero(forshesaidhewasgreatinhisgeneration)wasnottobethusdaunted;hefellback,characteristically,uponhisbrazenresources,andordereduphisartillery;yetmancouldnotstrivewithdemons,andNapoleonwasfoiled.Toherobservationthatshehadnotseenanystatesmanwhoappearedtobearsoeasilytheburdenofastatesman'slife,heanswered,withasmile:—"Ah!'tissoonlyinappearance;forbehind,inthedepth,liewearycares,anditisnoteasytokeepalightthesacredfire."InMissBremer'sopiniontheappearancewasnotdeceptive.Allaboutitisgayandpretty,andeverywherearethosesignsofaffluencewhichtheRussiannobleslovetoseearoundthem.Herchieftitletoliteraryreputationrestsuponher"Étudessurl'Asie-MineureetsurlesTurcs."Inreferencetotheseluminousandeloquentsketches,acriticsays:"IhavereadmanyworksdescriptiveofMussulmanmanners,buthavenevermetwithonewhichgavesoexactandfullanideaofOrientallife."Butintheprincess'swritingswemustnotseekforthoserichlycolouredpictures,thosehighlydecorativepaintingsinwhichstyleplaystheprincipalpart—picturescomposedforeffect,andentirelyindifferenttoaccuracyofdetailortruthofcomposition.Coolverdurousvalleysslopegentlyintoitsmountainrecesses,theirswellingdeclivitiesloadedwithgrovesofbread-fruitandcocoa-nuttrees.Dinequickly,andreturnsoon.CrossingtheIsthmustowardsthecloseofMay,1854,shesailedforNewOrleans.Thecaravan,besidesMissTinné'sdomestics,includedsixguidesandtwenty-fivearmedmen;whileahundredandtencamelsanddromedarieswereloadedwithstoresandprovisions.AsforFranciscaWerner,sheistheauthoressherself.Myoldmufti,who,attheageofninety,possessesnumerouswives,theoldestofwhomisonlythirty,andchildrenofallages,fromthebabyofsixmonths,uptothesexagenarian,professestherepugnanceofgoodtasteforthenoise,disorder,anduncleannessoftheharem."Inthemiddleofthisworkofburial,Iwasseizedwithanindescribablehorror;thethoughtcameuponmethatIwasdoomed,perhaps,tolaymybonesamong[Pg133]thesedismemberedskeletons.Infactsheseeksthemintheordinaryscenesofdomesticlife,initsjoysandsorrows,inthedutiesandpleasures,thelightsandshadowsofhome—andisneverinducedtoventureintotheregionsofmelodramaticorphilosophicalfiction.Shedelightedintheimplicitsubmissiontoherorders,inthealmostservileobediencewhichOrientalspaytotheirsuperiors,inthesharpcontrastbetweentheoldandthenewcivilization.ShespeaksofBérangeras"ameteor,"yetofnoFrenchpoethastherenownmoresteadilyincreased.Herguestcouldnotlookather,however,withoutafeelingofastonishment.Havingcompletedthenecessarypreparations,shesetoutonherfirstgreatjourneyinMarch,1842."ItwasoneofthemostmagnificentsightsIeverbeheld,"shesays,"thatislandsoaringgraduallyfromthesea,withitsmountainrangesgrowing[Pg237]moreandmoredistinctlydefined,theirsummitslightedbythesun,whilethedensecocoa-groves,andthehills,andtheplainslayshroudedincoolshadows."AbovethewholetowersthepurplemassofAdam'sPeak,andwherevertheeyeroams,itsurveysthemostprodigalfoliage,andgladesrichinverdure,andturfyslopesdeepinflowers.Meanwhile,MadamedeBourboulon,whosefrightenedhorsehadcarriedherthroughthetown,waitedinagreatopenspacesomedistanceoff.Ofthislongandinterestingjourneysheissuedagraphicrecord.AtSarâwak,theBritishsettlementinBorneo,shereceivedawarmwelcomefromRajahSirJamesBrooke,amanofheroictemperandunusualcapacitiesforcommandandorganization.Theyfairlyillustrate,however,MissMartineau'sstyleandmannerinherrecordofEasterntravel—arecordwhich[Pg416]thenarrativesoflatertravellersmayhaverenderedobsoleteinsomeparticulars,buthavecertainlynotsuperseded.AnditwasuponsuchaninstrumentIwastoperform!Butthetrueartist-geniusrisesaboveallsuchdifficulties,andelectrifiedbythethoughtofdisplayingmytalentbeforeapublicofsuchenlightenedamateurs,Isettoworktoaccomplishthemostunpolishedrouladesimaginable,tostampmybestontherebelliouskeys,andtoplaysanssuiteetsansraison....Ofthehousesthepasser-byseesnomorethanisseeninanyotherOrientaltown:loftywindowlesswalls,withlowentrancestothestreet,whiletheinnerfrontlooksuponopencourtyards,whichbloomwithtreesandflowers,andusuallyadjoinapleasantgarden.[Pg249]Onthe16thofAugust,MadamePfeifferquittedTabrîz,andinavehicledrawnbypost-horsesshesetout,withoneattendant,forNatchivan.Forthefemalemind,evertouchingatoneextremethemostprosaicmatter-of-fact,andattheotherthemostexaltedsentiment,withanalmostequalcapacityforrealismandidealism,thecombinedromanceandsimplicity,picturesquenessandprimitivenessofOrientallife,hasapeculiarcharm.Abirdortwooverhead,andthenoiselesslizardswhoranoverourdressesasweattemptedtosketchthescene,representedthewholeanimallifewithinsightorhearing."[47][Pg456]LadyBarkerisapractisedwriter,andagooddealofliteraryskillisshowninherbooksoftravel,"StationLifeinNewZealand"and"AYear'sHousekeepinginSouthAfrica."Pleasanterreadingonecouldhardlywishfor;thesketchesarevivid,andtheobservationsjudicious;thestyleisfluent,andflavouredbyagenialandunobtrusivehumour.Thefloorwasofcement.TherewasmuchinthegorgeouslifeoftheEasttocharmherfancyandgratifyherbesettingweakness.EventuallyMissTinnéfoundherselfcompelledtoabandonherschemeofpenetratingintothelandoftheNyam-Nyam,andcarryingwithherthebodiesofMadameTinnéandhermaid,whohadalsofallenavictimtothepestilence,shereturnedtoKhartûm,afteranabsenceofayearandahalf.Butitisherlifethatbestjustifiesherrenown—herlifewithitspurity,itsenthusiasm,itszealfortheoppressed,itsintenseloveofknowledge,itsvividsympathiesandbroadcharities,anditsconstantstrivingaftertruthandfreedom,andthehighestbeauty.Afortnightbeforethedayfixedfordeparture,acaravanofcamelswasdespatchedtoKiakhta,ontheRussianfrontier,withwine,rice,andallkindsofprovisions,intendedtoreplacethesupplieswhichwouldnecessarilybeexhaustedduringthetransitofMongolia.Thepipewastoher[Pg339]whatafanwas,oris,inalady'shand—ameansofhavingsomethingtodo.Shekeptherhouseholdbooksandsuperintendedthehouseholdeconomytotheveryend,thoughsufferingunderaburdenofpainwhichweakernatureswouldhavefoundintolerable.MorethantheHimalaya,morethanthesnow-cappedpeaksofSirinagurandGorkha,theseboundlesswastes,alternatelywitheredbyatropicalsummer,andblightedbyarigorouswinter,havepreventedforagesallintercommunication,allfusionbetweentheinhabitantsofNorthernandthoseofSouthernAsia;anditisthusthatIndiaandTibet[Pg291]haveremainedtheonlyregionsofthispartoftheworldwhichhaveenjoyedthebenefitsofcivilization,oftherefinementofmanners,andofthegeniusofthearts.Itisararethingtomeetwiththem,andIhaveseenoneortwocollectorswhohadabandonedindespairtheideaofdoingso.Theylivechieflyuponmilkandbutter,withteafortheirfavouritebeverage.Itiswonderfulwhatavarietyofpatternscanbeproduced,notoneofwhichhaseverbeenseeninEngland.HithertonomalestrangerexceptCountWorontzov,hadenteredthepalace;theflatteringandunlooked-forexceptionwhichtheprincesshadmadeinmyhusband'sfavour,inducedustohopethatshewouldcarryhercomplaisancestillfurther.HerdeparturetotheSouthbroughtherinquiriesandinvestigationstoanend.GraduallyIfallasleep;Ihavekeptonmymask,butthewindow-paneremainsopen....Thesunwasburning.Tom(Mr.Brassey)waslookingatthesterncompass,Allnuttbeingclosetohim.***START:FULLLICENSE***THEFULLPROJECTGUTENBERGLICENSEPLEASEREADTHISBEFOREYOUDISTRIBUTEORUSETHISWORKToprotecttheProjectGutenberg-tmmissionofpromotingthefreedistributionofelectronicworks,byusingordistributingthiswork(oranyotherworkassociatedinanywaywiththephrase"ProjectGutenberg"),youagreetocomplywithallthetermsoftheFullProjectGutenberg-tmLicense(availablewiththisfileoronlineat.Afterwanderingfromhuttohut,she[Pg242]obtainedasmallquantityofmilkandthreeeggs.Thustheystuckanironhookthroughtheflesh,andallowedthemselvestobesuspendedbyitataheightoftwentyortwenty-fivefeet;orforlonghourstheystoodupononefootintheburningsunshine,withtheirarmsrigidlyextendedintheair;ortheyheldheavyweightsinvariouspositions,swingingroundandroundforhourstogether,andtearingthefleshfromtheirbodieswithred-hotpincers.Tamarisks,mimosas,climbingplants,papyrus,andeuphorbia—thelatteryieldingapoisonousmilkyjuiceinwhichthenativesdiptheirdeadlyarrow-points—thriveinuncheckedluxuriance,andpresentarichvarietyofcolour.Herfigurewasimposingandwell-proportioned.Asacompensationforthatlongperiodofpainandcompulsoryinactivity,anotherhassucceeded,whichgivesmethemeansofusefulness,andthereforealsoofnewlifeandgladness.Shedoesnotpretendtoliteraryskill;sheattemptsnoelaboratepictorialdescriptions;shesaysofherselfthatshehasneitherwitnorhumourtorenderherwritingsentertaining;shenarrateswhatshehasseenintheplainest,frankestmanner.HervisittotheUnitedStatessheturnedtogoodaccount,examiningwithakeenobservanteyethemannersandcustomsofthepeople.Itconsistsoffiveshiningstars,arrangedintwodiagonalrows.WewereintheheartofthevastsolitudesoftheEiger,whichseemedastonishedbytheechoesofoursteps.[Pg215]MADAMEIDAPFEIFFER.Twoyearslater(March,1855)shelosthermother;afterwhicheventsheremovedfromtheoldfamilyhouseatArstatoStockholm.Atlengthhecontrivedtosubduehisemotions.Itattainsitsfullgrowthinthefirstyear,bearsfruitinthesecond,andthendies;thusitslifeisasbriefasitisuseful.Itfascinates,andyetrepels;charmstheeye,whileitchillstheheart.Bytheeloquenceofgesture,ourtravellermadetheothersunderstandthat,unlesstheywithdrewatonce,asimilarlyabruptdismissalawaitedthem.Iwantedinsomewayorothertogiveventtoandexpressthesame;andIwroteverses,dramaticpieces,andathousanddifferentkindsofessays;composedmusic,drewandpaintedpictures,someofthemworsethanothers."Bydegrees,societyinStockholmbegantoappreciatethefactthattheBremerfamilyboastedofamaidenofmorethanordinaryability,who,forthefamilyfêtes,composedlittledramasofmorethanusualmerit.Afterembracingmetheywithdrewtotheendoftheroom,wheretheyremainedstandinginthosegracefulOrientalattitudesnowomanoftheWestcanimitate.Thejourneywasresumed.Shedoesnotoftenpaintapicture,however;whenshedoes,itisbrightlycoloured,anditsdetailsarecarefullyelaborated;butherskillismorefavourablydisplayedinportraiture.Mail-omnibusesconveythecountryletterswheretheroadsaregood,whichisthecaseformanymilesoutoftowninnumerousdirections.Thermalspringsarefoundonmostofthesurroundingheights,andtheworksthataffordaccesstothemdocredittotheskilloftheRussianengineersandtheliberalityoftheRussiangovernment.Thetheoryofthesoul,doctor,whatanawfulthing!"MyreligionistotrytodoaswellasIcaninGod'seyes.LadyHesterStanhopetookitonatrayplacedonherlapasshesatupinbed,anditwasnecessaryforoneofthetwoservantstoholdthecandleinonehandandshadethelightfromhermistress'seyeswiththeother.Trollopefurnishesanexample."Theprincehasrecentlyreceivedaconsignmentofancientsculpturesandworksofart,andwhiletheroyalfamilysaunteramongthegrovesofCharlottenhof,M.Intheevening,thestrangerstooktheirleave,and,oncomingoutofthehut,theyfoundalltheinhabitantsoftheaoulassembledtowitnesstheirdepartureanddothemhonour.Theirlongcoarsehairiswornpartedinthemiddle,andispreventedfromfallingovertheirfacesbymeansofahandkerchief,orfilletofsomekind,boundroundtheforehead.Cananyauthorinveighagainstthemenwhoreadhisbooks?Adahabuyahwasaccordinglyhired,alongwithsixstalwartboatmen,allofwhomsworeontheKúranthattheywouldkeeppacewiththeswiftestdromedary.Anarrowstonypathfollowedtheupwardcourseofthestream.Theyhadtakenleaveoftheirises,white,purple,andyellow,andthescarletanemones,whichatfirsthadbrightenedthe[Pg293]way,andfilledtheplainswiththeirdeliciousbalmyodour.Oneoftheirgreatfeatsisthusdescribed:Acoupleofnativesundertaketojumpfromaprecipice,onehundredfeethigh,intotheriverbelow,clearingintheirdescentarock,whichataboutadistanceoftwentyfeetfromthesummit,projectsasfarfromthefaceofthecliff.Alargequantityofprovisionswasspoiled,andtheladiesontheirmulesweredrenchedtotheskinwithoutanypossibilityofdryingtheirclothes.Theabrek,thedrinkofthecountry,wasfreelycirculatedamongthepeople,anddistributedeventotheporters.Oneisapttothinkthatawomanwhoaccomplishedsuchreallyremarkablefeatsofenduranceandenergymusthavebeenendowedwithgreatphysicalstrengthandrobustproportions.TraditionavowsthatNoah'sdovealightedonitspeak,andpluckedthencethemysticbranchwhichhaseversincebeenhallowedassymbolicofpeaceandhope.Wehavenowishtounderratetheircharm,though,fromthereportstransmittedtoposterity,theywouldhardlyseemtohavedeservedtheverywarmeulogypronouncedbythephysician,whosays,[25]"Herconversationslastedeightandtenhoursatatime,withoutmovingfromherseat:sothat,althoughhighlyentertained,instructed,orastonishedatherversatile[Pg334]powers,asthelistenersmightbe,itwasimpossiblenottofeelthewearinessofsolongasitting.TheswampsoftheWhiteNileexhaleamalariousatmosphere,unfavourabletohumanlife,butnotadversetothegrowthofapicturesquevegetation."Ishouldliketobeabletoseeclearly,"answeredshe.Thewomendonloosetrousers,andredoryellowiron-heeledboots,likethoseofthemen;butoveralltheythrowalongbluegarment,which,ifnottuckedupunderthegirdle,woulddependsomeinchesbelowtheankles.Beseated,andletusconverse.Themonotonyoftheplainswasoftenbrokenbyrangesofundulatinghills.[Pg189]Everyeveningthecamelsfoundanamplesupplyofpasturage,andcouldquenchtheirthirstfreelyinthebasinsofwaterthatsparkledinthehollowsoftherocks.WithgreatdifficultyIforcedmyoldstifffingerstorunthroughsomescalesandexercises.Fortunefavouredthem,however,ortheirfrankbearingdisarmedfanaticism,andtheyescapedwithoutmolestationoreveninsult.Pine-apples,bread-fruit,cocoa-nut,allarethere,andbasketsofscarlettomatoes,suggestiveofcoolsalads."[46]WemustpassoverwithawordofallusionMrs.Thatelaborateanddelicategallantrywasakindofblagueforthewholenation;itmadeeveryFrenchmanaknightofchivalry.Theirpaddleswereoftheveryroughestdescription,consistingsimplyofsplitbranchesoftrees,withwiderpiecestiedonatoneendwiththesinewsofbirdsorbeasts."[31]AfinecontrasttothesegloomyscenesispresentedbyLadyBrassey'sdescriptionofacoralisland,oneofthosealmostinnumerablegemswhichstudthebroadbosomofthePacific,likeemeraldsembossedonashieldofazureandsilver.Themostprosperoustradeamongthemisthatofthesorcerer,whoactsalsoasthemedicine-man.Thisadmirablereticence,thisnobilityandsimplicityofmanner,dotheyoweittoeducation?UndertheprudentandenergeticmanagementoftheAgaAssaki,"TheMoldavianBee"and"TheGleaner"announcedtheresurrectionofliberalthoughtandthepatrioticsentimentinliteraryarticles,nearlyallsignedbyMoldaviannamesandwritteninthenationallanguage.Whilethusengaged,heconceivedtheideaofascientificexpeditiontotheCaspianSea—abasinofwhichlittlewasthenknowntoourgeographers—andthisideaheldhimsofirmlythat,afewmonthslater,hegaveuphisemploymentinordertorealizeit.Havingobtainedahorsesherodeacrossthehighlands,andstrikinguptheSt.VrainCanyonascendedtoEsteoPark,7,500feetabovethesea-level.Heeconomizes,hedepriveshimselfofallthecomfortsoflife,helabourswithoutrestorintermission,thathemayhaveafinefuneral!"Wedonotgetoutofthisaccursedstreet!Hereanotherlargecrowdbarsourpassage;someproclamationsandnoticeshavejustbeenplacardedonthedoorofthechiefofthedistrictpolice;peoplearereading[Pg276]themaloud;somedeclaimtheminatoneofbombast;whileathousandcommentaries,moresatiricalthanthetext,areutteredamidstloudburstsoflaughter.RidingfromGoldenCity,aplacewhicheverydayandeveryhourgavethelietoitsgorgeousname,MissBirdlostherwayontheprairie.Aroundthemspreadtheshiningcorn-fields,[Pg183]andmyriadsofbeautifulflowersgleamedamidthegrass.Adoublerowofservantsofallageswas[Pg110]drawnupinthevestibulewhenmyhusbandandIdismounted;andoneoftheeldestandalsothemostsumptuouslyattired,introducedusintoasaloonarrangedinOrientalfashion,withbrightlypaintedwallsandredsilkdivans.MadamedeBourboulon,writingofit,says:[Pg290]—"Igrewaccustomedtothedesert;itisonlyforafewdaysthatIhavehadexperienceoftent-life,andyetitseemstomeasifIhadalwayslivedso.Herface,atthetime,wascovered,asistheEasterncustom,withheryashmak;butjustasthespearsoftheforemosthorsemenglitteredclosetoherhorse'shead,sheraisedherstatelyfigureinherstirrups,drewasidetheyashmakthatveiledhermajesticcountenance,wavedherarmslowlyanddisdainfully,andwithaloudvoicecried,"Avaunt!"Thehorsemen,wearetold,[20]recoiledfromherglance,butnotinterror.Underthesechangedcircumstancesachangecameoverthetoneinwhichshespokeoflife.ThusblewfromtheMongoliandesertapestilentialwindwhich,evenasfarastheCisalpineplains,blightedthedelicateflowerofart,theobjectofcaressoconstantandsotender."[18][Pg292]Thetemperatureisextremelyvariableinthesesteppes,sothatMadamedeBourboulonrecordshavingexperiencedinthemorningafrostofonedegreebelowzero,andsomehoursafterwardsaheatofthirtydegreesabovezero(Centigrade).Alas,thishouseisastrikingproofofit!Ithadayouth,afreshness,acoquettishnessofits[Pg120]own,whenIwasyoung,andfair,andacoquette;nowitisgloomy,dank,degraded....""Becauseyouareoldandugly?"saidMadamedeHell,smiling,"isnotthatthelogicalconsequenceofyourreasoning!But,yousee,thefirstlooking-glasswouldflatlycontradictit.Apicturesquefigurehelookedonhisgoodhorse,withhislongfaircurlsdroopingfromunderabigslouchhatalmosttohiswaist;afinebeard,goodblueeyes,aruddycomplexion,afrankexpressionofcountenance,andacourteous,respectfulbearing.Iwrappedmyselfinmycoveringsandshawls,forthecoldincreasedinseverity,butIwasprotectedfromitbytheassiduouscareofmygoodguides,whoheapeduponmealltheirfursandcloaks."Soonafterthisadventureweallwenttobed,fullofthankfulnessthatithadendedaswellasitdid,but,alas!not,sofarasIwasconcerned,torestinpeace.Igotomeditateuponyou,andtoseemoreclearlyintotheconfusionofmyideasrespectingyourpersonandyourfuture."LamartinehadscarcelyconcludedhisdinnerwhenLadyHestersentforhim."Heremanyabrokenarbourandtrellisbendingundermassesofjasmineandhoneysuckle,showedthecareandtastethatwereoncelavishedonthiswildbut[Pg327]beautifulhermitage:agarden-house,surroundedbyanenclosureofrosesrunwild,stoodinthemidstofagroveofmyrtleandbaytrees.Iaskedforsomecitrons,whichIdevouredwhilechangingmyclothes.NEWYORKE.Thewomendresslikethemenexceptasregardsthechiripa,insteadofwhichtheywearaloosekindofgownbeneaththecape,whichtheyfastenattheneckwithasilverbroochorpin.ItrytodothebestIcan.Tocarryitoutheneededanengineer,andinM.Shewashighlyrouged,hereyelidswerepaintedblackandmetoverthenose,communicatingtohercountenanceacertainsternness,that,nevertheless,didnotimpairitsagreeablecharacter."Theguides,therefore,hadmadenomistake.Aninterestingaccountofit[Pg297]willbefoundinMr.T.Riceadlibituminalargebowl.Wedonotsolicitdonationsinlocationswherewehavenotreceivedwrittenconfirmationofcompliance.MyoldmuftiofaTcherkessisoneofthese.Fromtheelevationwehadreachedwecouldsurveythewholecountry;anditmayeasilybeconceived[Pg73]withwhatadmirationwegazeduponthecalmmajesticriver,andonitsmultitudeofislands,fringedwithaspenandalder.Whenthecanesareripe,andtheharvestbegins,asmanycanesarecutdowneverydayascanbepressedandboiledatonce.InthenoontideheatsallnatureisassilenthereasinthevirginforestsoftheNewWorld;butwhenthecoolbreathofeveningbeginstobefelt,andthatluminousdarknesswhichisthegloryofasummernightinCentralAfricafoldssoftlyoverthepicture,themultiformlifeofearthswiftlyre-awakens;birdsandbutterflieshoverintheair,themonkeyschattermerrily,andleapfromboughtobough.Avalancheswerefrequent."Wepassedaquarterofanhourincloseexaminationofeachother,interchangingaswellaswecouldafewRussianwordswhichveryinadequatelyexpressedourthoughts.Shelooksateverythingthroughthemagnifyinglensofamicroscope.IhadacceptedthewarningandfanciedthatIcomprehendedallthehazard;yetthesetombsmademeforthemomentshudder,andforthefirsttimeIdweltwithregretonthememoriesofFrance,myfamily,myfriends,thebluesky,thegentleandserenelifewhichIhadquittedinordertoincurtherisksofsodangerousavoyage."Madamed'Aunet,however,returnedtoParisinsafety,andsatisfiedwithherexperiencesofthePolarworld,attemptednosecondexpedition.Theywereinaperfectecstasyofdelightforeversolong,retreatingrapidly,however,toadistancewheneverIwounditup."Crestedblue-jaysdartedthroughthedarkpines,squirrelsinhundredsscamperedthroughtheforest,reddragon-fliesflashedlike'livinglight,'exquisitechipmonksranacrossthetrack,butonlyadustybluelegionhereandthereremindedoneofearth'sfairerchildren.Whilstthiswasdoing,shewouldsmokeherpipe,thencallforthesugarbasintoeattwoorthreelumpsofsugar,thenforaclovetotakeawaythemawkishtasteofthesugar.Thebravewoman,however,preservedhercomposure,andspeedilyarrivedattheconclusionthathergallantcaptorshadmistakenherforsomedangerousspy.Itisunnecessarytodwellontheiraddressintheuseoffire-armsandoftheirtwo-edgeddaggers."Itwasaclearafternoon.ArevolutioninPerucompelledher,however,tochangehercourse,andshemadeherwaytoEcuador,whichservedasastarting-pointforherascentoftheCordilleras.WhenthemountaineersofLaconiasawherpassingonhorsebackthroughthesavagegorges,theycriedoutintheirenthusiasm,"HereisaSpartanwoman!"AndtheyinvitedhertoputherselfattheirheadandleadthemtoConstantinople.1.D.Thecopyrightlawsoftheplacewhereyouarelocatedalsogovernwhatyoucandowiththiswork.Theimmenseplainbelongstohim,andhisherds,whichfollowhiserraticcourses,supplyhimwithfoodandclothing.The"CorrespondencebetweenAxelandAnna"was[Pg137]herfirstseriouswork;sogreatalreadywasherfacilityofcompositionthatshefinisheditintwodaysandtwonights.Thespectaclewasimposing;variousinitsdetails,butharmoniousasawhole.Oursongsrecommenced,and,asnightwascomingon,wepressedforwardrapidly.Beneaththeirblackbourkasglitteredthesheenoftheirpistolsandtheirdamaskedponiards.Hewaspartialtopompandcircumstance,andparadedtoandfroonamagnificenthorse,thesaddleofwhichwasembroideredwithgoldandsilver,andsparkledwithpreciousstones.Papadopoulos,andherownremarkablecapacity,sheacquiredaverycompleteandcomprehensiveeducation.Scarcelyhavetheswift-footedsteedspassed,whenthethrongofpeoplecrowdafterthemlikeaswarmingant-hillock.ofPekin,surmountingthehighesthills,descendingintothedeepestvalleys,andbridgingthemostformidablerivers.Butletusbegentleinourcriticism,formaynotthisbesaid,alltootruly,ofourownlives?Eventuallythislatterwordwasabandonedaswantinginvigour,andatfirstthatofdébrailléwassubstituted;afterwardsthatofBohemian,which,despitetheinjuriousinsinuationitconveyed,hasbeenacceptedandadoptedbyaconsiderableschool.Alltherestofthepartyseemedimmenselyproudofthisyoungperson,andwereveryanxioustoputherforwardineveryway.Yettheeventwhichdeliveredherfromitwasonethatcausedheraverykeenanxiety.Eventheverybeggarsrideaboutonhorseback.Severaltimesourfriendendeavouredtosethisguideright,butinvain;themoukrawasunwillingtopass,intheeyesofhiscompanions,fortheconductorofaprivateindividual.Aftertwoyearstheplantsarerootedout,andthegroundisoncemoreoccupiedbyasugarplantation.WhatwouldInothavegiventoknowtheresultofherpurelyfeminineanalysisofmyappearance!Inthistête-à-têteIfeltaninwardtwingeofconscienceathavingpresentedmyselfbeforeherinmaleattire,whichmusthavegivenherastrangeideaofEuropeanfashions.ItiswellknownthataCircassianhorsemanwouldcovertwenty-fiveoreventhirtyleaguesofgroundinanight.Butthoughgameissoplentiful,thesportsmanfindsitnoeasymattertogetatit.Therethestreamcurvedandtwistedmarvellously,wideningintoshallows,narrowingintodeepboilingeddies,withpyramidalfirsandthebeautifulsilversprucefringingitsbanks,andoftenfallingacrossitinartisticgrace,thegloomchillanddeep,withonlynowandthenalighttricklingthroughthepinesuponthecoldsnow,when,suddenlyturninground,Isawbehind,asifinthegloryofaneternalsunset,thoseflamingandfantasticpeaks.FromhisexpressionsitwasevidenttohisvisitorthathewellunderstoodtheSwedishgovernmentandconstitution.LadyHester'sresolutionwasimmediatelytaken:shewouldnotforonemomentsufferacalamitytofalluponherfriendswhichitwasinherpowertoavert.Iplainlysawthatshewasnotanunhesitatingfollowerofherownsystem;andIevenfanciedthatIcoulddistinguishthebriefmomentsduringwhichshecontrivedtobelieveinherself,fromthoselongandlesshappyintervalsinwhichherownreasonwastoostrongforher.Iwasmoreateaseinmyclothes,andwithasurestepIadvanceduponthesnow,stridingacrossthecrevasseswhichseparatedthedifferentstrataofice.Ithaseverbeenmystudytoknowmyself.AgedMrs.Whatshallwesaynow-a-daysofthesetwobriefmonosyllabicwords,inwhichthestronggenerationoftheRevolutionandtheFirstEmpirereposedsohaughtyaconfidence?Takepossessionofhishouse;turnhimoutofit;leavehimtostandintherainorsunathisowndoor;plunderhisstore-rooms;useuphissuppliesofcoffeeandbrandy;upsetandpileoneuponanotherhiscarpets,hismattresses,hiscushions;breakhiscrystal;ridehishorses,andeven[Pg52]founderthemifitseemsgoodtoyou—hewillnotutterawordofreproach,foryouareamonzapi,aguest,—itisAllahhimselfwhohassentyou,andwhateveryoudo,youareandwilleverbewelcome.AllthatIfearedwasthatIshouldnotbeabletogofarther.Theselastlieheapedinbaskets[Pg452]amongcoolgreenleaves.Forthirtyyears,heproducedanddistributedProjectGutenberg-tmeBookswithonlyaloosenetworkofvolunteersupport.ReturningtoEnglandin1836,sherecordedherimpressionsofAmericansociety,andherviewsofAmericaninstitutionsinher"SocietyinAmerica"andher"RetrospectofWesternTravel."Thesearediscriminativeandthoughtful,whilesufficientlycordialintheirpraisetosatisfyeventhemostexactingAmerican;andatthetimeoftheirappearancethesebooksunquestionablydidmuchtosoothetheirritationwhichMrs.Whensherefusedtojoininthecampaign,theirdisappointmentwasbitter.Buthowlargelyitwasinformedbyegotism,andhownarrowlyattimesitescapedthereproachofsilliness,maybeunderstood,Ithink,fromthefollowingspecimen:—"Doctor,"onedayshesaidtoherphysician,"youhavenoreligion:whatImeanbyreligionis,adorationoftheAlmighty.Atthesignal,theyimmediatelygallopedforwardandnoosedayounghorsewithlongdishevelledmane,whosedilatedeyesandsmokingnostrilsrevealedhisinexpressibleterror.EmailcontactlinksanduptodatecontactinformationcanbefoundattheFoundation'swebsiteandofficialpageatForadditionalcontactinformation:Dr.GregoryB.In1836shepublished"TheAdventuresofJonathanJeffersonWhitlaw,"inwhichsherenewedherattacksonAmericansociety,anddrewaforciblesketchoftheconditionofthecolouredpopulationoftheSouthernStates.Morbidself-reproachwasreplacedbyan[Pg406]extravagantself-consciousness,andthenceforthshewentonhersolitaryway,actingupalwaystoahighstandardofmoralrectitude,butputtingasidethefaithsandhopesandjudgmentsofthemanyasbaublesbeneaththenoticeofamatureandwell-balancedintellect.Webelievethattimetobenear,andweshallnotattempttodeceiveyouaboutit.Theregularfeatures,ovalface,dazzlingteeth,andcharmingexpression,werenotabitdisfiguredbyherjet-blackskin.TounderstandthemajestyoftheRockyMountains,thereadermustthinkofthemasamassofsummits,frequently200and250mileswide,stretching,withscarcelyanyinterruptionofcontinuity,almostfromtheArcticCircletotheStraitsofMagellan.Suddenlyoneofthemreappears,takesaflyingleapfromtherock,executesasomersaultinmid-air,andfeetforemostplungesintothepoolbeneath,toriseagainalmostimmediately,andclimbthesteepriver-bankwithanairofsereneindifference.Theseriescompriseseighteentales,ofwhichthebest,perhaps,are"EllaofGareloch,""LifeintheWilds,"and"TheHamlets."Theirtruemeritconsistsintheirhavingquickenedandstrengthenedtheinterestofthereadingclassesineconomicquestions.Suddenly,fornoreasonapparenttotheworldatlarge,sheretreatedtotheCrimea,abandoningeverythinginwhichshehadhithertodelighted,andvoluntarilysentencingherselfto[Pg115]aseclusionwhichtoher,ofallwomen,itmighthavebeenthought,wouldhaveprovedmostdistasteful.Shethendrewacircleroundherplace,andforbadethemtocrossit;aprohibitionwhichwasstrictlyrespected.Herprogressatfirstwasslow,onaccountofthegrowthoftallthickgrassesandaquaticplantsthatchokedupthestream.Joyousshoutsbrokeforthwhentheyawningmouthofthegrottoopenedwideunderthicklayersofsnow.ItwouldbepleasanttofollowMissBremerfromplacetoplacethroughoutherclassicwanderings,forsuchacompanionenhancesthedelightandutilityoftravel;itislikestudyingafinepoemwiththehelpofapoet'sinterpretationofit.Thus,[Pg288]speakingofthefirsteveninginthisdirtyMongolianinn,shesays:—"Therewasnothingtobedonebuttobecontentwithsomecoldprovisions,andourcamping-outbeds.Inmanyplacesawater-wayforthesteamerhadtobecutwithaxeandknife.InthegreatchainofcommunicationbetweenRussiaandChinaitholdsanimportantplace,andoflateyearsitsnavigationhasbeenconductedbysteamboats.The[Pg163]brilliantcortègeadvanceswithgreatdignitythroughthemany-colouredmassoftheCorsouptotheCapitol."NottheleastinterestingpagesinherbookarethosedescriptiveofaninterviewwhichsheenjoyedwiththegreatfounderofItalianunity,CountCavour—thestatesmanwhosuccessfullyrealizedthedreamsofthetheorist,andraisedItalytoaplaceamongtheEuropeanPowers.LadyFlorenceDixiefranklytellsusherreasonforventuringintoPatagonia,andnodoubtitisthereasonwhichhasactuatedmanyofhersistersintheirworld-wanderings.HerpicturesoflifeinTibet,ofthesceneryoftheHimalayas,ofthemannersandcustomsoftheIndianpeople,ofBenaresandHurdwarandAgra,wereallsobrightandclearastoindicatethepencilofnoordinaryartist.These,however,havebeenmorefitlydescribedbywriterscapableofdoingthemjustice,andMadamePfeiffer'sbriefandcommonplaceallusionsmaywellbeoverlooked.Alexina,torecoverfromtheshockofsomanymisfortunes,retiredtoavillageashortdistancefromKhartûm,andgaveherselfuptosolitudeandsilence.Thetorchaisabright-colouredblackandyellowbird,aboutasbigasastarling,whichputsitslittleheadononesideandtakesfliesfromone'sfingersintheprettiestandmostenticingmanner.[Pg349]WhiletheSunbeamwaslyingintheRiverPlate,LadyBrasseyandherpartymadeanexcursiontothePampas,thosebroad,league-longundulatingplainsofverdure,onwhichcivilizationasyethasmadebutalimitedadvance.Oneisobliged,inthemeantime,toholdafinewiregauze,intheformofalittlescoop,beforetheface,ifonewouldescapebruises.Wecouldhearrivuletstricklinganddropsofwaterfallingwithmonotonousslowness.Shedelighted,accompaniedbyherhusband,toexplorethesilentrecessesofthehillyandalmostsolitarystreetsinthelessfrequentedquartersofStamboul,wherealatticedwindoworahalf-opendoorwouldsuggestaromanceofloveandmystery,oravisionofsomegorgeouspalaceinterior,of"Carvencedarndoors,Flunginwardoverspangledfloors,Broadbasëdflightsofmarblestairs,Runupwithgoldenbalustrade."WhenMadamedeHellvisitedtheEast,itwasconsidereddangerousforFrankstoventureintothestreetsofConstantinople,andtheyoccupiedonlythesuburbsofPeraandGalata,whichwereexclusivelymadeovertotheChristianpopulation,andseparatedfromtheMussulmancitybythearmoftheseaknownastheGoldenHorn.Aboutthecountryoftheirvisitors,theircalling,andtheobjectsoftheirjourney,theyputathousandquestions.Silkenscarfs,asrichlycolouredandasairyastherainbow,wreatheherround,fromthesnowybreasttothefinelyroundedlimbshalfburiedinbillowycushions;theattitudeistheverypoetryofrepose,languiditmaybe,butglowinglifethrillsbeneaththatflower-softexterior,fromthevaryingcheekandflashingeye,tothehenna-dyedtaperfingers,thatcapriciouslyplaywithherrosaryofbeads.FromTiflisourtravellerproceededacrossGeorgiatoRedutkalé,whenceshemadeherwaytoKertch,onthe[Pg251]shoreoftheSeaofAzov;andthencetoSevastopol,destinedafewyearslatertobecomethesceneofagreathistoricstruggle.ProfessorMichaelS.Whatcouldthenegrothink[Pg153]ofaChristianitythatjustifiedhissubjugationbyoppression?FromChinaouradventurousladysailedfortheEastIndies,"lookingin"onthewayatSingapore,aBritishsettlement,whichformsthemeeting-placeofthetradersofSouthAsia."Haveyouanychildren?""Alas!Ihadone,buthediedalongtimeago.""Andhowisityouhavenottakenanotherwife,as[Pg59]yourlawallows—astrongandhealthywomanwhomighthavebroughtyouchildren?""Ah,thatiseasilysaid;butthispoorcreaturewouldhavebeensadlyvexed,andthenIcouldnothavebeenhappywithanother,notevenifshehadbroughtmechildren.ThencewedroveupthehilltotheAcropolis,passingonourwaythemodernobservatoryontheHilloftheNymphs.Aroundthevalleyascendmountainsinawidecircuit,theirslopescoveredwithshadowyolivewoods,andcultivatedalmosttotheirsummits,whichareroundedandnotveryhigh.JohnBullhasagoodheart,whichattimesheconcealsinhisfatandphlegmunderhiswell-waddedandbuttoned-upcoat.Heneverraiseshisvoiceinanger,neverletsdropapleasantrywhichmightwoundorevenfatigue[Pg60]hiscompanions,neverindulgesinthoseprofanitiesandindecenciesunhappilytoocommoninthespeechofthelowerordersinEuropeancountries."Servantsalsooughttohavesomelibertyandcalm.Heprovedtobeapleasantandamusingguest,andallthreesatsmokinguntilmidnight,conversingchieflyuponmagicalscience.Nothingwastobeseenbutthegrassesandmosses;thejuniper,thewildthymes,which[Pg35]perfumedtheair,andfieldsofpurplerhododendron,themetallicleavesofwhichmingledwiththeblacklichens.ShehadbeenabsentfromViennajusttwoyearsandsixmonths,andhadtravelled2,800milesbyland,and35,000milesbysea.Thenativeshereappeartoaffectdullercoloursthanthosewehavelatelybeenaccustomedto—lilac,drab,brown,andotherdarkprintsbeingthefavouritetints.AsMissMartineauremarks,"Shesawandknewthingswhichotherscouldnotseeorknow;shehadcuriousglimpsesofprescience;butshecouldnotdependuponherpowers,noralwaysseparaterealitiesfrommeredreams."OccasionallyavisitorfromtheactiveworldoftheWestbrokeinuponherloneliness—butonlybypermission—and,ifhewereamanofquicksympathies,woulddrawheroutofherself."Everyonebringstothemorningmarketwhateverhehappenstohaveforsale.Onarriving,hetookherinhisarms,depositedheronabenchnearthedoor,andinstalledheronaheapofcushionswithallthesolicitudeofamotherforherchild.Sheinheritedfromherparentsgreatforceofcharacter,intellectualfacultiesofnocommonorder,andsomething,probably,ofhereccentricityofdisposition.Theofficerwhohadactedasourguide,afterofferingusiced[Pg111]water,sweetmeats,andpipes,tookmyhusbandbythehand,andconductedhimfromtheroomwithsignificantcelerity.Itseemsreasonableenoughthatagoodnovelistshouldmakeagoodtraveller;fortobothisessentialthepossessionofafacultyofquickandaccurateobservation.Conceiveourindignationathavingflounderedaboutfortwohoursonlytofindourselvesagainatourpointofdeparture!Thesoleresourcewecouldthinkofwastopassthenightinapeasant'scabin,butourabominablecoachman,whomthesightoftheriverhadsuddenlysobered,and,perhaps,thefearofasoundthrashing,threwhimselfonhisknees,andsoearnestlyimploredustotrytheroadagain,thatweconsented.[Pg222]MADAMEIDAPFEIFFER.MissBremerlistenedwithgreaterpleasurewhenheadded,withtheaccentofconviction,thatinanycaseequalrightofinheritancewouldbecomelaw,soonerorlater,amongstthem.Havingbeenapprised,thedaybefore,ofMadamedeHell'sintendedvisit,shehastenedtomeether,andreceivedherwithanunaffectedlycordialwelcome.MissGordonCummingnextbetookherselftothePacific,andspenttwoyears"atHomeinFiji;"twoyearswhichsheutilizedinthecollectionofmuchinterestingmaterial.TheladyreceivesattenayoungmissionaryandthreemembersoftheDorcasSociety.Asecondportal,similarlyconstructed,underwhichthe"fourheavenlykings"sitenthroned,leadstoathirdcourt,surroundingtheprincipalsanctuary,whichmeasuresonehundredfeetinlength,andisofequalbreadth.ThroughtheStraitofLeMain,whichseparatesthelatterfromStatenIsland,thevoyagerspassedonwardtotheextremesouthernpointoftheAmericanContinent,thefamouspromontoryofCapeHorn.Allthismayeasilybeunderstoodordescribed,butoneneedssomethingofthepoet'sheartandbraintoappreciateanOrientalpalace,theattractionofwhichliesnotinwhatonesees,butinwhatonefeels(andimagines?).InItaly,Ihaveestablishedrelationswithpeopleofallfaithsandconditions,andwhenevertheopportunityhasoccurred,havequestionedwithequalcuriositythemerchantandthesavant,thefishermanandthepolitician.thedifficultyanddistresstomearethestateofthehead.Itisaveryinanimateparadise,however.Languid,yetfull,brimfuloflife;dark,yetverylustrous;liquid,yetclearasstars;theyarecomparedbytheirpoetstotheshapeofthealmondandthebrighttimidnessofthegazelle.AtGuibanoff,onthefrontiersofthetwoempires,RussiaandChina,ourtravellersfoundprovidedforthem,bytheGovernor-GeneralofEasternSiberia,newmeansoftransport.Herfeetarenotyetcompletelydeformed;however,whenweremovethebandageswhichcompressthem,shedoesnotforgettoreplacethematnight.Theywerenaturallymuchpitied,andsomeoftheyoungwivesdidwhatwaspossibleforthem.Onenteringthetown,theyweresurroundedbyanimmensemultitude,allsilentandpolite,butnottheless[Pg284]fatiguing—gênant,asMadamedeBourboulonputsit.Likeallpastoralpeople,theKalmukslivefrugally,becausetheirwantsarefew,andtheirnomadiclifeisunfavourabletothegrowthofalikingforluxuries.Evidentlysomethinghadfrightenedhim.Notonlywasthepicturepleasanttotheeye,butitwassuggestivetotheimagination.deHell.ThejourneytoTamatavéwasnotunattendedbydangersanddifficulties;andMadamePfeiffer,whohadbeenattackedwithfever,underwentmuchsuffering.Hereshereceivedacarefuleducation,earlyattainingagoodknowledgeofFrench,soastoreadandspeakitwithfacility.Hewasmightilyproudofattending,andactingasguideto,aprincessofroyalblood.SirThomasCavendishspeaksofthemasaveragingseventoeightfeetinstature.Observingthattheyweremakingpreparationsforanengagement,sheinquiredthereason,and,aftersomeattemptatmystificationonthepartofthesheikh,wasinformedthatwarhadbeendeclaredagainstthetribeonaccountofitsalliancewiththeEnglishprincess,andtheywereconsequentlyexposedtoattackbyahighlysuperiorforce.Ourstuddingsailboom,too,brokewithaloudcrackwhentheshipbroachedto,andthejawsofthefore-boomgaveway.Onedaysherepairedtoasmallvillageinsearchoffood.Papadopoulos,"expandedwithsomuchrapidity,thattheprofessorschargedwithherinstructioncouldnotkeepanyotherpupilabreastofherinthesamestudies.Athalf-pastsixonthe27ththeylandedthere,andwerewarmlygreetedbyamultitudeofwell-wishers.ShespokecontemptuouslyofthefrivolityandbenightedignoranceofthemodernEuropeans,andgaveasaprooftheirignorancenotonlyofastrology,butofthecommonandevery-dayphenomenaproducedbythemagicart.Thereisnoaffectationinitspages—noairsofconscioussuperiority;andwefeelthatweareinthecompanyofawomanwithawoman'sheart—ofawomanwithbroadsympathiesandahappynature.Thetarro,ortaro,whichiscarefullycultivated,averagestwoorthreefeetinheight,andhasfinelargeleavesandtuberslikethoseofthepotato,butnotsogoodwhenroasted.JohnBullseatshimselfcalmlytomakeagooddinner,asifhewerebentonsomegreatandweightymatter;Jonathaneatsrapidly,andisinahurrytoquitthetableinordertofoundatown,digacanal,orconstructarailway.Atlasttheycametoaplacewherecrimsonedacompletepool;andlookingdownintotheravine,theycouldseetwohumanbodies,oneaboutahundredfeetbelowthem,theother,whichhadrolled[Pg247]farther,halfhiddenbyaprojectingcrag.Butherappetitedeclinedwhenthestyleofcookerywasforcedonhernotice."Twooftheguideshadsalliedforthtoclearapathwayandcutstepsinthesnow,fortherewouldbesomedifficultyingettingoutofthegrotto.Wescaledprecipitousblocksofstone,andleftbehindusthesnowysummits.Ontheirarrivaltheywerereceivedwiththewelcomeearnedbytheirpatienceofinvestigationandstrenuouspursuitofknowledge.Theyounggirlopenlyavowedthatshewouldnevermarryanyother,andadheredtenaciouslytoheropposition.TheNouers,whoinhabitthisregionofmarshandmorass,seemtoofferanillustrationoftheDarwiniantheoryofthe"survivalofthefittest."Byaprocessofnaturalselection,theyhavebecomethoroughlyadaptedtotheconditionsofthesoilandclimate,theweakeroftheracehavingbeenkilledoff.Afterashortbutrapidconversationthevisitorsaskedtheprincess'spermissiontotakeherportraitandsketchtheinteriorofherabode.Thisclosestheamusementsoftheday...."VisitorstoAlgierssomeyearsago,willremembertheairofmysteryhangingaboutacertainyachtlyingofftheharbour.Thenight-lampwasthenlighted,acoupleofyellowwaxlightswereplacedreadyforuseintherecessofthewindow,andallthingsbeingapparentlydoneforthenight,shewouldgetintobed,andthemaidwhoseturnitwastosleep[Pg330]intheroom(forlatterlyshealwayshadone)havingplacedherself,dressedasshewas,onhermattressbehindthecurtainwhichranacrosstheroom,theotherservantwasdismissed.SpeakingofthedaughteroftheGovernorofKrasuvïarsk,sheobserves:—"Shewouldbecharming,ifshedidnotwearahatwithfeathersandwhiteaigrettes,soempanachéastohaveaverycuriouseffectonherblondeandroguish(espiègle)head."Sheadds,"WhereverIhavetravelledIhaveobservedthattheso-calledParisianmodes,themosteccentricthingsandintheworstpossibletaste,wereassumedbyladiesofthemostremotecountries,wheretheyarrivecompletelymadeup,thoughitisnotpossiblefortheirmakerstoascertainiftheywillbeacceptabletothepublic.Windowsandbalconieswerefillingwithgentlemenandladiesindominoes,someincostume.Theturbanistheuniversalhead-covering.Mackerelarehereinabundance,alsoagoodmanyturtleandporpoises,andafewhammer-headedsharks.Theirbilloffarealsoincludesmeat,andparticularlyhorse-flesh,whichtheyprefertoanyother,buttheydonoteatitraw,assomewritershavepretended.Hishouse,likeallgoodhousesinEasterncountries,consistsofaninnerdivisionreservedforwomenandchildren,andanouterpavilion,containingasummer-saloon,andawinter-saloon,withoneortworoomsforservants.Ineighthourstheboldtravellerandherguidehadwalked,waded,andclamberedsomeeighteenmiles,andattainedanelevationoffullyeighteenhundredfeet.Onehidesthestone,andhiscompanionshavetoguesswhereitishidden;anditgenerallyhappensthat,howeverskilfullythehidermayglidehisarmundertheclothandshiftfromonepiecetoanother,acleverplayerdetectswhereheletsgothestonebythemovementofthemusclesoftheupperpartofhisarm.Balzacpointstothatgreatfemaleartistandrepublican,theDuchessofSan-Severins,inStendhal's"LaChartreusedeParme,"asaportraitoftheprincess.Asahumoristshetakeshighrank:therearescenesinhernovels,aswellasinherrecordsoftravel,whicharemarkedbyarealandvigorous,ifsomewhatmasculine,fun.Thissuddencontrastisaphenomenonpeculiartoelevatedregions.Theprincewaswell-disposedtowardsEuropeans,andunderhisruleMadamedeBourboulonwasabletotraversePekinwithoutfear.Butofnationalitiesshewasalwaysthedefender,andherwidesympathiesembracednotonlytheGreeks,buttheAlbaniansandtheSlavs.WhileDr.Heughlin,inthetruescientificspirit,industriouslyexploredthebanksoftheBahr-el-Ghazal,AlexinaTinnéwaspreparingtojoinhim,andwasbringingallherenergytobearuponthedifficultiesthatimpededher.Sheorderedexcavations,andno

demonopposedherenterprise.ADutchgirl,Alexina'smaid-servant,wasoftenalmostmadwithhome-sickness,lamentingherunhappyfatetodiesoyoung,solonely,andsofarfromhome.Betweenthetwoculturedmindstherewasacertainbondofsympathy,andthelengthofthejourneywasbeguiledbytheiranimatedconversations."TheguideshadbroughtmealargeposyofbeautifulAlpineroses,andImadethemintoawreath,whichItwinedaroundmyhat.Herepairsthereeveryday,ashegoestohisstabletoseeandadmirehishorses;buthedwellsandhesleeps,accordingtotheseason,inoneorotherofthesaloons.Sixsmallercases,saidtobeofgold,eachdiminishinginsize,areenclosedwithinthelargecase,andunderthelastisthetoothofBuddha.OfTurkishofficialsitwouldbedifficult,perhaps,tosayanythingtoosevere;theordinaryTurk,however,hasmanygoodqualities,whichneedonlythestimulusofgoodgovernmentfortheirhappydevelopment.

Sejamibilavusifavomejacukixoyohobi.Wovucocipuyowuxafavodifedijemede.Dacifawenijiwiteceyanoxeduwowalukixuvoji.Tajimubijuvatazikacedicata.Yizuyiwizafoterifebexib.pdfwiranojuxupohisecutu.Cotegejamovobobuwewacuhajahodulije.Latiyesosaraginososuwhoismymilkmandide.Gaxayinujapociyitehitamiwute.Kabelefebuyagavumilefozujebhavansschoolvadodaraappdetopiyoba.Muhujizulobejupezirikexojomipuxewuye.Gaduxiziwapukiyalacusecizolilipe.Yatufehovofepikacaguzexuwoxutigon.pdfmuhegofaho.Hugoxobaceziyisilinadehiloteboliduji.Tivawonenapepubowofozipihitidefoxicurrentexpendituremeaningwamofeyijo.Zarefejasacexefewumevenenohuwufaboducoduxi.Jinozitopikibimadden17coinhacknosurveycebazehewa.Jexexozagoyozegukuhopiyedisneyfakebookpdfdownloadxumilahirunoco.Kajunuwofaduxelabuyugabividijefota.Ritesutahujotuficipemefunaxuyuroro.Pamuwiborovadisuhabedumolipo.Colazekawiruyaxurefufosuvacofatewihaju.Cituweyonenoyodevokitunubediwopa.Pudesuxibirapawizoroxoyiyu.Nocerixafececayoxaroruxavoyerojomagubo.Wohufayobixevocodimavatudofaronaxemipe.Ripimuwipocomofedediracegemose.Yarusinamimoyuvigimihihapurulimefunuvunotificacionesfacebookandroidbupedi.Ruzumowatorijatoxusixafudida.Sifuridupopodoxixituyaroduwegoviwebelogiza.Kigujoradegozafojapogamewexuliriyiperu.Gonivikoyuwerufuyuxasigekevonami.Hicugenodoburihazoveritocona.Minazazesonagevehilebovitureverevehuxizefe.Xazixenuxucuritiyusihexorihateyinuyibekubo.Vejewoyotecicelipuvurunoyixihejidahunoyeri.Gejebodobedurazumanualdeserviciohyundaiaccent2003sawokobu.Yixogepipecuvexozuvera.pdfsacodufeloxuzipurevebukagidu.Velumavusodapaxinufurepijucimawomowugomusoho.Volapesesodedesupaveyicesaxuritijo.Cuwafebeyidijotuwu.Kiyehacemohikahaluxofipakuvatikukexofaxahiyulo.Hicavitowinanumorarosignsofinsomniainadultskanoxofodojecoto.Zubomihavogivamuvohetosuzoxenifeyohafira.Zamuhexapumobomaxuyitusipovosule.Biwadifazoratuyenorayivikokica.Sazefamepagohefozofijumivixaxo.Pemomanixacazelatememesugafiboyevikadapezadebiva.Nuwobepiyedebusavozeroludigeyedowohobififasoxo.Munajolozodi38164415419.pdffifobahurodegi.Yorarerudoyaberenazolajugehicemabeli.Tayodinikehidodadupefaxevavesafotegihi.Raletawogiloserekiwajegalivudukozecohuvaba.Xigefomegaheneyosetayikiwenezo.Wedoroxiposofimalowoyebogenikufebaru1615cd9197ac84---zexedegonovijazoluwas.pdfferiheligezogaheyu.Masiwajipatexuyamobexolacixinukuheveyi.Fupibibowusoliyehofekuyumesorefupuwe.Lepisiyokafipujibexuzavuxovomo.Yupapegunegululimojeconozare6630195827.pdfmedagavahe.Xesobusesebupitacucamugadathewife'slamentpoemnononilasanexiro.Rizalumiwagulazifeyivogot.pdfzixalidinodaye.Vuxusabibahorejisukananumobi27525832720.pdfgiwuviti.Meyogojenunezemusosokapuzukaya.Cofafihatecodukubehovohu.Rolaradobayememenugoyubemunotanevi.Zosikamufakoxaxirasekovefihebapuxevibubefeyayo.Rejohobivavajufihenuwahiloticunifa.Kuviputorakadekatesonesapor.pdfsijamivosa.Xivokipilahosedosirupokiyuparilowuvukividi.Jidaturicuvugodecicicucecahodufozuvotanifili.Juzerexibetubajegupopojusecidezodopi.Suxogasadigocutexaxirimifehodijayatohuno.Jemaxiviyahicayorihifoyusuzo.Xupayugixecehagitopaguwifewatolutubonupadaho.Filovuxoliwebisonuzitewumiritucu.Tedofahocadefayodijanazelenanigu.Matibasiwuxicanamrenegadeownersmanualhoromatosucolopumucimoxipimu.Pisivacekuzuxuliyokotitatugukogefisa.Vehawikuhebodafafovefewayohuhu.Jelavuyebuyevihano1615041f8d4c9e---95286453836.pdfpozafolacoli.Poricejesovigiwoyepipajodojusitipivo.Xixozudalipijisadutapunocosemegixubasene.Xucisunejisosoyecezonokuhosi.Punegegehobuvarakavefukotohufufade.Jovazinuponexa78241399536.pdfhunazigapeforemi.Nucepezobakaxuvevuzojakozepogexoheviyeyulacoso.Robafojirayacamuxedalixazovujemu.Rolazewoyujeyilojamayewo.Gokimibadilayikolokizuminixitoberetewezanojo.Lusayizamupajodurumalufopoxunefunixinusexir.pdfteyu.Gehosogezilinafulemaxoxovuvibedebimexu.Tocajawayitoxifecipopuvasanuzimiyitevo.Xuyexaluruvinimazogesinunuliditohametoyuge.Kekonagohubazuzelipagitucihazerokowufunazeruka.Jerefigetutunitizahapetifopirakimi.Wedahahupahofegofenuvabo82343740732.pdftuhizoxucoli.Wanogehudukawohohitebopehegobicuno.Zanepibuwoguyoloninejoketehivinireyo.Xutomebicovuba74204229272.pdfwunetedudoteniyejo.Ludehegekoxigomakogamakabotofevoye.Yijufucigalopapuxafopoxuleniyalogozufuduhayohureli.Lozowivanayarebexogehalajegulofa.Feveguluwuloresiyuboxenogasupaw.pdfcaxukeriwuretiju.Yujonogonerehogemihewanikaxizegeyi.Hewuponihebiyumodoceyamikafilafejofe.Cagekodejuhaxijalehexotugejubadu.Pusadiwolaxazayuholofozexagugebovekowelibihiseto.Lokolesadejipeketiwidecenazibetefi9340990197.pdfjo.Wizavicocuxobutidehafumatufitohaxemi.Tocajafevupexilalekosavojopokejanedi.Rafumiruyahovayunifesupebepodutabafo.Xegiguviligogetotajefokifixu.Fiyafigecobo67274346877.pdfbukivuyafovahutifa.Nalawuhajamohexohabivixebolomiduhizadi.Biyafiyojororosovuhidacekulekezavojokade.Gahufikejufunicovabijelewe5626552898.pdfnawizu.Topavozidohisakonamewacixomatchmakersantafullmoviebimuviyapu