Tekno-Tulong is an effort of the Science and Technology Information Institute (STII), an attached agency of the Department of Science and Technology (DOST), to serve our people through the dissemination of simple technologies that have been tested and found feasible. The aim is to facilitate at lowest cost, the application of said technologies, so as to enable those interested to use them as a means of added income. These technologies have been compiled, and some of them translated and organized into instructional form that are easy to follow.

This complete compilation of the six books-in-one was made possible through the efforts (with permission from the STII) of the DOST Regional Office No. V in order to reach all the grassroots of the province where it is expected to have the greatest impact.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

BOOK I

Food Production and PreservationFarmingHerbal MedicineSmall Industries

BOOK II

Snack Foods from Fruits and VegetablesSweets and Preserved Fruits and VegetablesSeasons and AppetizersPreserved Fresh FoodsFish and Marine Products, Meat

BOOK III

Short Term PlantsPlants for a LifetimeImprovement and Maintenance of Plants

BOOK IV

Plants - Sources of Livelihood from the FarmEnergy from Plants and Agricultural WastesHousing Materials from the Farm

BOOK V

Chicken and BirdsFarm Animals

BOOK VI - Fishes

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BOOK I (back to main page)

Food Production and Preservation

Home Made Tomato Catsup Fish BallsTomato Paste Fish QuekiamSquash Catsup Dehydrated Vegetable ProductsFlour Vinegar From Squash Vegetable PicklingSalty Banana Chips Corned BeefBanana Pastilyas Dehydrated Beef BloodBanana Peanut Mix Tosino (Salted Pork)Banana Sauce ChicharonDrying Banana Blossoms Boneless HamCalamansi Concentrate LonganisaSalting Eggs In Brine Deep-Fried High Protein CrunchiesSalting Eggs In Clay Kropeck For Shrimp HeadsInstant Dry Soy Bean Curd (Tokwa) Papaya JamTaosi Making Mango-Tomato JamCoco Kropeck Guava JamCoco Burger Preserved CamiasCooking Oil And Cheese From Coconut Milk Tomato CandySweetened Condensed Coco Milk Vege-SweetVinegar Production From Coconut Water Sayote-Piña JamNata De Coco From Coconut Water Kalabasa Leche FlanNata De Coco From Coconut Milk Home-Made Ice CreamNata De Kalabasa Process Carabao's Milk Into

Nutritious SnacksBurong Isda Jubilee CheeseDried Fish Prolonging The Shelf-Life Of

ShrimpsCrispy Dilis Some Tips On How to Choose Fresh

Sea FoodsSmoked Fish (Tinapa) New Quick Process of ManufacturingImproved Soy Sauce Production With Fish Sauce (Patis) and Fish

Reduced Fermentation Period Paste (Bagoong)

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HOME MADE TOMATO CATSUP(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

Tomato according to pulp needed1/2 quart Vinegar4 cups Sugar1/2 teaspoon Cinnamon (powdered)1/2 teaspoon Pepper (powdered)1/2 teaspoon Cloves (powdered)1/2 teaspoon Allspice (powdered)(All spice and the rest of the spices are wrapped in a small cloth bag).

Directions:

Ripe fleshy red tomatoes are used. They are washed thoroughly, cut into halves (crosswise). The seeds are separated, the pulp is cut into convenient pieces. It is strained and the seeds are discarded. The juice is mixed with the pulp. It is cooked in an enameled kettle, stirring now and then until the thin peelings have been separated and have rolled. It is then removed from the fire. The whole mixture is now strained through a metal strainer, preferably copperwire strainer, or better still, a coarse bamboo basket (with small holes), and all the pulp let to pass through. The pulp is measured. To every 4 quarts of the pulp the above items are added. The resulting mixture is put in a kettle (enameled), boiled, stirring constantly to avoid scorching until the right consistency for catsup is reached. The mixture is then poured into bottles, sterilized and covered tightly.

Source: Food Technology Research and Development Program ITDI (DOST), Pedro Gil cor. Taft, Manila

Keywords: food preservation; food processing; flavorings; tomato catsup

TOMATO PASTE(back to food production and preservation)

Procedure

1. Choose matured ripe and fresh tomatoes.2. Immerse 1 or 2 times in boiled water for 2 minutes. Deep in cold water to remove the

outer skin.3. Remove the skin and slice lengthwise to remove the seeds.4. Add the extracts to the pulp and boil for 10-15 minutes. Still occasionally.5. Allow the pulp to pass through a coarse strainer while retaining the seeds.6. Place the mixture in a container and boil for 15 minutes at slow fire.7. For every kilo of the pulp mixture, add 1 tsp. salt.8. Cook until desired consistency.9. Transfer to sterilized bottles and boil uncovered for 45 minutes. Water level must be

2/3 full so as to avoid entry into the containers.10. Close the containers tightly and boil again for 35 minutes. Cool and store in a dry

place.

Source: Food and Technology Research and Development Program NIST (NSTA)

Keywords: Food preservation; Food processing; Flavorings; Tomato catsup.

SQUASH CATSUP(back to food production and preservation)

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Materials:

4 cups squash, pureed1 c red sweet pepper, chopped1/3 c onions, chopped1 tbsp. garlic, chopped21/2 c vinegar3 c sugar3 tbsp. salt2 tsp. cornstarch dissolved in 2 tbsp. water and boiled2 tsp. grand black pepper 1/2 strawberry red coloring dissolved in 1/4 c water12 drops allspice solution12 drops cinnamon solution4 drops paprika solution2 drops hot pepper extract

Utensils:

household cups funnelteaspoon ladletablespoonknife steamer strainer or cheeseclothaluminum tray or any wide containerwide-mouthed deep cooking potsterilized bottles with caps

How to Prepare Stock Spice Solution:

All spice solution -- Boil 4 tsp allspice powder in 1 c water for 10 minutes. Strain throughcheesecloth.Cinnamon solution -- Boil 3 tsp. cinnamon powder in 1 c water for 10 minutes. Strain through cheesecloth.Paprika solution -- Boil 6 tsp. paprika powder in 1 c water for 5 minutes. Strain through cheesecloth.Hot pepper extract -- Mash 48 pcs. "siling labuyo" in 1 c water and boil for 3 minutes. Strain. Store. Stock spice solution in clean covered bottles for future use.

How to Prepare Squash Puree

1. Wash squash and divide along grooves. Peel and remove seeds. Cut into thin slices. Measure.

2. Steam 5 minutes. Add 1 1/4 water for every 12c of squash.3. Mash and pass through strainer until fine. Add chopped red sweet pepper, onions and

garlic. Mix thoroughly.

How to Prepare Squash Catsup

4. Boil vinegar, sugar and salt for 3 minutes. Add squash-spice mixture and cook 10 minutes.

5. Add cornstarch solution and black pepper and cook for another 10 minutes with constant stirring.

6. Add the required amount of spice solution (allspice, cinnamon, hot pepper extract, paprika) and food coloring. Continue boiling until catsup consistency is reached.

How to Preserve Catsup

7. Pour mixture into clean bottles while hot. Half seal bottles.

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8. Arrange bottles in a big deep pot. Fill the pot with enough lukewarm water, not to exceed neck level of the bottles.

9. Boil for 15 minute. Seal bottles tightly. This catsup may last for 1 year without any changes in taste and aroma.

Source: Food and Technology Research and Development Program NIST (NSTA)

FLOUR AND VINEGAR FROM SQUASH(back to food production and preservation)

Flour

Procedure:

1. Wash and peel the squash, remove the core and seeds.2. Slice into 1 x cm.3. Soak in 0.01% sodium metabisulfite to preserve the natural food nutrients.4. Wash in tap water, drain.5. Blanch for 15 minutes, drain.6. Dry in an oven at about 50-55 C.7. Grind and strain several times. Pack in plastic bags and cover tightly.

Vinegar

Procedure:

1. Wash the core and peelings, add three parts water for every part of the core and peelings.

2. Boil for 15 minutes. 3. Strain. Add 1 1/4 cup sugar for every 4 cups of liquid mixture.3. Roll again for 20 minutes. Transfer into a container, add 1 tsp. yeast.4. Allow to ferment for 7 days until it reaches an alcohol content of 8%.5. Decant the alcohol solution slowly so as to separate the precipitate from the alcohol

solution.6. Add 1 cup vinegar starter for every 4 cups of the alcoholic solution.7. Allow to ferment for 15-20 days. Acidity of the solution is 6-7% as compared to

commercial brands of 4%.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food processing ,Squash Flour Vinegar

SALTY BANANA CHIPS(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

Bananas (saba or cavendish) green and matured, salt and cooking oil

Utensils to be used: Knife, strainer, aluminum containers, frying pan, bowls and stirrerProcedure:

1. Prepare 2 percent salt solution (1 tsp. for every cup of water).2. Wash, peel and slice bananas (as in sweetened banana chips).3. Soak the sliced banana in the salt solution for 2 hours.4. Drain in a wire mesh.5. Heat the oil (138 C-148 C). Fry the slice bananas until golden brown. Stir occasionally

and strain the oil through the wire mesh.6. Let cool and store in bags.

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Source: Food Technology and Research Development Program ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food processing ,Banana chips

BANANA PASTILYAS(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

1 kilo (5 cups) mashed ripe bananas (saba or cavendish)300 gm. (2 1/4 cups) sugarButter or margarineUtensils needed:Rolling pinFrying panChopping or kneading boardSpatulaKitchen knifeWax paper

Procedure:

1. Prepare the mashed bananas as follows: Boil the ripe bananas (saba or cavendish). Peel and slice into 3 cm. thick.

2. Grind the sliced bananas until it is mashed, add the sugar and cook over slow fire. Stirring should be done constantly until a clear mixture is obtained with the desired consistency. The mixture should not stick to the sides of the frying pan.

3. Transfer the mixture over a kneading board covered with wax paper. Sprinkle small amounts of sugar over the wax paper. Spread the mashed mixture using a rolling pin until it is 1 inch thick.

4. Spread butter and small amounts of sugar over the mixture.5. Make slices of about 4 x 1 cm. Cool and wrap individually.

Source: Food and Technology Research and Development Program ITDI, DOST

Keywords: Food Processing, Bananas ,Candies

BANANA PEANUT MIX(back to food production and preservation)

Banana is a common tropical fruit and is a good source of energy. Peanut is likewise a favorite nibble among children and adults, providing them a good amount of protein and fats. When mixed together, banana and peanut blend in s high-calorie, high protein food best suited for growing children.

Materials:

(for a kilo of mix)20 big pcs. banana (saba), unripe3/4 kilo, raw peanuts2 3/4 cups + 6 tablespoons brown sugar1 1/4 cup water.

Utensils:

Knife, Chopping board, Corn grinder, Cooking pot, Aluminum tray, Carajay

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Procedure:

1. Boil green bananas (saba) until done.2. Sun dry until crisp and grind into flour using a corn grinder. Set aside and place in a

dry and clean covered container.3. Toast peanuts over moderate heat for 15-20 minutes. Cool and remove skin manually.4. Grind into powder using a corn grinder. Set aside and place in a dry and clean covered

container.

Preparation for serving:

1. Mix 1/3 cup of banana flour and 1/3 cup of peanut grits.2. Add 1/3 cup brown sugar and boil mixture in 1 1/4 cup of water for 3-5 minutes. Stir

to prevent scorching. Serve moderately hot.

Yield: 1 cup or 320 gramsNutrient composition for every 100 grams blend.Fat 507 kcalProtein 14.7 grams> Energy 26.1 grams

One-half (1/2) cup of this porridge will provide your pre-school child 1-6 years old with 20% and 17% of his Recommended Dietary Allowance for energy and protein, respectively.

Keywords: Food processing, Peanut butter, Banana flour

BANANA SAUCE(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

1 kilo, Ripe saba bananas1/4 liter, Vinegar3 3/4 liter, Water100 gm., Salt1 kilo, Sugar2 pcs. (Red pepper, big)15-20 pcs., Siling Labuyo2 tsp., Powdered pepper1 whole Onions, chopped1 pc. Garlic, minced1 tsp., Red catsup1/3 tsp., Cloves1/3 tsp., Paprika1/3 tsp., Cinnamon0.08-1%, Sodium BenzoateFood coloring: 1/2 tsp. chocolate brown1/4 tsp. strawberry red

Procedure:

1. Remove the banana peelings.2. Grind the banana with water, sili, chopped onions and garlic.3. Add the remaining ingredients except sodium benzoate and food coloring.4. Cook until thick, and sodium benzoate and food coloring. Stir very well.5. Place in bottles while hot and seal tightly.

Source: Industrial Technology Development Institute ITDI (DOST)

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Keywords: Food processing, Sauces, Flavorings

DRYING BANANA BLOSSOMS(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

1 tbsp. sodium metabisulfite4 cups waterbanana blossomssugar, vinegar, soy saucecheesecloth

Procedure:

1. Dissolve one tablespoon sodium metabisulfite in four cups water and boil the solution.2. Strip apart banana blossoms, wrap in cheesecloth, and blanch in the boiling solution

for 5 minutes. Drain in a large strainer.3. Mix equal quantities of sugar, vinegar and soy sauce, and soak the blanched blossoms

overnight in this mixture.4. Drain, sun-dry, and pack in plastic bags.

Keywords: Food technology, Banana, Drying

CALAMANSI CONCENTRATE(back to food production and preservation)

Ingredients:

70 pcs. calamansi (medium size)Sugar (if desired)"Sodium benzoate"

Utensils: Kitchen knife, Mixing bowl, Cheesecloth, Casserole for cooking, Spoon, Cooking stove, Bottles (8 oz.), Measuring spoon, Measuring cups, Chopping board, Strainer

Procedure:

1. Carefully wash the fruits with water.2. Cut crosswise and squeeze the juice through a cheesecloth.3. Add sugar if necessary. The amount of sugar added is according to taste.4. For every 41/2 cups of calamansi juice, and 1/4-1/3 tsp. sodium benzoate dissolved in

water.5. Heat the mixture up to 75 C or until the mixture is about to boil. Continue to maintain

at this temperature for about 5 minutes while stirring constantly.6. Transfer while hot to sterile bottles. Cover the bottles.7. Boil for 20 minutes. Close tightly and let cool in an inverted position.8. Wipe dry and store in a cool place.

Source: Food and Nutrition Research Institute (DOST)

Keywords: Food processing, Citrus fruits, Fruit concentrates

SALTING EGGS IN BRINE:(back to food production and preservation)

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Materials: Eggs (chicken or duck), Salt

Utensils: Wide-mouthed glass jar, Measuring cups, Cheesecloth

Procedure:

1. Boil 12 cups of water and 3 cups of salt. Cool.2. Carefully place 12 chicken or duck eggs in wide-mouthed glass jar.3. Pour the salt solution in the jar. Weigh down eggs with plate or cup to keep them from

floating or use a sealed plastic bag filled with the salt solution.4. Cover mouth of jar with perforated paper or cheesecloth. Keep in a cool, dry place.5. Try one egg after 12 days by cooking below boiling point for 15 minutes. Soak again if

eggs is not salty enough. Test for saltiness by cooking one egg after a few days until desired level of saltiness is attained. Duck eggs may need to be soaked longer.

6. Cook salt eggs below boiling point for 15 minutes.

Source: Technical Information and Documentation Division ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food preservation, Salted eggs

SALTING EGGS IN CLAY(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

Eggs (chicken or duck), Clay, Salt

Utensils: Measuring cups, Palayok

Procedure:

1. Mix 12 cups of clay and 4 cups of salt, adding water gradually until well blended.2. Apply generous portion of this mixture at the base of a clay pot or "palayok."3. Coat each egg with the mixture.4. Arrange in layers and allow 2.5-5.0 cm. in between to prevent breakage.5. Cover with extra mixture and store.6. Try one egg after 15 days by cooking below boiling point for 15 minutes. If not salty

enough, extend storing period.7. When ready, cook eggs below boiling point for 15 minutes.8. Color eggs, if desired.

Source: Technical Information and Documentation Division ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food preservation, Salted eggs

INSTANT DRY SOYBEAN CURD (TOKWA)(back to food production and preservation)

An improved production technology is introduced to come up with instant dry soybean curd, superior in quality compared to the fresh form. The technology uses MgSO4, as coagulant which increase the yield of fresh soybean curd. The instant soybean curd has a good texture upon rehydration and its storage life is lengthened to 6 months from the 3 day-old fresh curd.

Materials: Soybeans, Water, MgSO4

Equipment/Utensils: Grinder, Cheese cloth, Mold, Dryer, Cooking vessel

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Procedure:

Soybean milk is processed by soaking soybeans overnight, washing, cleaning and blending it by grinding. Twelve (12) liters of water is added to every kilo of soybeans. This mixture is cooked for 30 minutes with occasional stirring. The puree is strained on cheesecloth to obtain the milk. The milk is boiled for 10 minutes, then cooled to 50 C. A volume of 0.2% MgSO4 is added to promote curd formation for 20 minutes. Curd is collected into clothlined mold or press. The curd is then cut into desired sizes, frozen, thawed and soaked briefly in sodium bicarbonate solution. Finally, the soaked curd is pressed and dried in a solar dryer at 60 C.

Source: Technology developed by: Industrial Technology Development Institute DOST, Pedro Gil cor. Taft Ave., Manila

Keywords: Food preservation, Soybeans, Curds, Prepared foods

TAOSI MAKING(back to food production and preservation)

Taosi is salty fermented beans commonly used in food preparation or as condiment of Filipino dishes.

Materials: Soybeans, Salt, Rice bran, Wheat flour, Water, Aspergillus oryzae (mold)

Equipment: Cooking container, Jar for fermentation, Shallow bamboo basket (bistay)

Procedure:

1. The soybeans are washed in several changes of tap water and are soaked overnight. The soaked beans are washed and the water is drained out.

2. The beans are cooked by boiling in a suitable container until they are tender enough that they can easily be pressed between fingers.

3. The boiled beans are transferred into a shallow basket or (bistay) to drain the excess water and then subsequently cooled.

4. Beans are dried for 30 minutes under the sun or for one hour in the shade.5. Cooked dried beans are coated with roasted wheat flour.6. One teaspoon of a 3-day old rice bran culture of yellow-greenish mold known as

aspergillus oryzae is introduced to the beans as seed. The mixture is mixed thoroughly.7. The seeded are spread to a thickness of about 1-2 inches thick. Then cover with either

cheesecloth or clean Manila paper and allow to stand for 3-4 days in a clean place till it is profusely covered with the mold growth.

8. The beans with molds are transferred into a jar containing salt solution and is covered.

Source: Technology developed by: Industrial Technology Development Institute (DOST)

Keywords: Food preservation, Prepared foods, Beans

IMPROVED SOY SAUCE PRODUCTION WITH REDUCED FERMENTATION PERIOD (TOYO)(back to food production and preservation)

Soy sauce is a dark brown extract of a fermented mixture of soybean and roasted wheat flour. Soy sauce with 7% protein content meets the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requirement. It compares very well with the protein and lactic acid content of known local commercial brands.

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Materials: Soybeans, Brown sugar. Salt solution, 20-22%, Sodium benzoate as preservative, Monosodium glutamate (MSG), Bacteria (Lactobacillus delbrueckii), Yeast (Hansenula subpellicullosa), Sugar molasses, Flour, water, kaolin, Mold (Aspergillus oryzae)

Equipment: Fermenting Vessels/Vats, Pressure cooker/Horizontal retort, Filter press (Stainless steel), Funnel/Liquid filling machine, Pasteurizer/Kettle, Frying pan, Mixer, Bistay/Trays

Procedure:

Pretreatment of Soybean

Soak soybeans in water overnight, then wash and drain. The soaked beans are steamed with water for one hour at 15 psi. The beans are allowed to cool.

Inoculation

The cooled beans are inoculated with yeast after spreading evenly on a tray or "bistay". Incubate for 24 hours at room temperature by covering with cheesecloth. This is used as soybean broth. The beans are coated with roasted flour and are subsequently inoculated with mold and bacteria starters. Mix thoroughly and incubate at 30-40 C for 24 hours. The mash formed is transferred into fermenting vats and mixed with 20-22% salt solution. The vats are covered with thick plastic sheets. Fermentation is completed after three months.

Improvement of product

The mixture is clarified with kaolin overnight. The fermented mash is filtered and the brew is pasteurized at 80-85 C for 30 minutes. Caramelized brown sugar is added to improve flavor, color and viscosity of soy sauce. Sodium benzoate is added as a preservative. The product is bottled.

Source: Technology developed by: Industrial Technology Development Institute (DOST)

Keywords: Food processing, Fermentation,Flavourings

COCO KROPECK(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

2 cups rice flour1/2 cup coconut meal1/2 tbsp. salt3 cups water1/2 tsp. vetsin

Procedure:

1. Steam the coconut sapal for 10-15 minutes.2. Mix all ingredients.3. Pour in greased aluminum trays.4. Place in a dryer at a temperature of 60-65 C or under the sun.5. Remove from the trays and pack in plastic bags.6. Before serving, deep fry in hot oil.

Source: Food Processing Division ITDI (DOST)

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Keywords: Food processing, Rice flour

COCO BURGER(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

2 cups coconut sapal1/4 cup flour1 tsp. salt5 tsp. soy sauce1 egg1 tsp. corn starch1/4 tsp. vetsin1/4 tsp. black pepper1/4 cup onions (chopped)

Procedure:

1. Steam the coconut sapal for 10-15 minutes.2. Mix all ingredients and form patties.3. Fry in hot oil.

Source: Food Processing Division ITDI (DOST) Pedro Gil cor. Taft, Manila

Keywords: Food preparation, Coconut meal, Patties

COOKING OIL AND CHEESE FROM COCONUT MILK(back to food production and preservation)

COOKING OIL

Procedure:

1. Weigh the grated coconut and press by the hands in a cheesecloth to extract the cream. Set aside.

2. To the second extraction, add 1 liter of water for every kilo of grated coconut.3. Repeat extraction, reducing the water added to 1/2 as previously added.4. Combine the second, third extractions, strain through a cheesecloth, measure and set

aside.5. Prepare the saturated salt solution: 37 cups salt for every 100 gms. water or2 cups salt

for every litter water. Strain.6. Combine the saturated salt solution with the second and third extraction, mix

thoroughly for 15 minutes.7. Transfer to a clear container with a drain at the bottom and allow the cream to

separate from the skin for half an hour.8. Remove the lower layer and repeat No. 6. Set aside salt washings.9. Add water to the cream (after salt washing): 1 part water for every 3 parts cream and

mix thoroughly for 15 minutes.10. Let stand for 30 minutes or until the cream separate from the water. Remove the

cream and repeat the washing operations.11. Heat the washed cream until the jelly-like brown proteinaceous mass separates from

the oil.

CHEESE

1. Collect the "salt washings" obtained from producing the cooking oil.

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2. Allow the solution to form "curds" by means of heating.3. Dry the curd portion in a cheesecloth. Wrap in plastic bags and store in refrigerator.

The protein content of the cheese obtained from coco cream is 33.19%. Storage life will last for 6-7 days when refrigerated.

Keywords: Cooking oil, Cheese,Coconut milk

SWEETENED CONDENSED COCO MILK(back to food production and preservation)

Sweetened condensed coco milk is usually used as beverage, sandwich spread, and coffee creamer.

Materials: Grated coconut milk, Refined white sugar, Agar-agar or 1/4 bar gulaman

Equipment/Utensils:

Mixing bowl/basinMeasuring cupPlastic containerMeasuring spoonWooden spatulaDouble boiler

Procedure:

Cream is extracted from the grated coconut meat by pressing. The "sapal" or residue added with proportional amount of water is extracted once more to obtain the skim milk (lower layer) by separating from its cream (upper layer) through gravity. One and a half parts sugar is mixed with 1 part skim milk and the remaining cream of the second extract is added to the first pure cream extract for purposes of producing oil. However, if there is no intention of processing oil from the cream, sugar is dissolved into the liquid after second extraction. The sugar mixture is cooked with continuous stirring for one hour in a double boiler. To thicken the mixture, agar-agar or 1/4 bar gulaman is added. The produced sweet condensed coco milk is poured in sterilized bottle and then sealed.

Source: Technology developed by: ITDI (DOST)Keywords: Food preparation, Coconut milk

VINEGAR PRODUCTION FROM COCONUT WATER(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

3 liters coconut water2-1/4 cups white sugar1/4 tsp. yeast1 liter mother vinegar (starter)

Procedure:

1. Collect coconut water and strain through a clean cheesecloth.2. Dissolve the sugar in coconut water.3. Pasteurize the mixture for 20 minutes at 65 C.4. Cool and transfer the mixture into sterilized gallons or containers.5. Add yeast. Cover tightly and allow to ferment for 4-7 days.6. Slowly decant the alcoholic mixture and heat further for 20 minutes at 65 C.

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7. Add the starter and set aside undisturbed for a month or until maximum acidity is attained.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food production, Vinegar, Coconut water

NATA DE COCO FROM COCONUT WATER(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

Coconut waterRefined sugarAmmonium phosphateAcetic acidNata starter

Equipments:

Weighing scaleWide-mouthed glass jars or basinsStrainersKettles

Procedure:

1. The collected coconut water is filtered through a cheesecloth. One hundred (100 gms.) refined sugar and 5 grams monobasic ammonium phosphate is mixed for every liter of coconut water in a container. The container is covered and the mixture allowed to boil. It is then allowed to cool after boiling and 6.9 ml. of glacial acetic acid is added.

2. 110-150 ml. of starter (available at ITDI) is added to the mixture. It is subsequently transferred to big mouthed clean jars leaving ample space atop mixture and covered with clean cheese cloth. The culture is allowed to grow at room temperature for 15 days or more. Note: Do not move jars during growth period.

3. Harvest is ready after 15 days or more, making sure that all conditions are aseptic so as to enable one to reuse the remaining liquid which serves as starter for succeeding preparations.

4. Dessert Making. The "nata" is cut into cubes and is subjected to a series of boiling with fresh water until acidity is totally removed. One kilo of refined sugar is added for every kilo of nata and are mixed. It is brought to boiling until the "nata" cubes become transparent.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food technology, Nata de coco, Coconut water

NATA DE COCO FROM COCONUT MILK(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

1 kilo Grated coconut600 gms. Refined sugar325 c Glacial acetic acid (available in drugstores)1/2 liter Coconut water12 liters Ordinary water2 liters Nata starter (available at ITDI)

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Procedure:

1. Extract the cream from the coconut, strain through a cheesecloth.2. Mix all ingredients.3. Transfer to big mouthed clean jars and allow around 2-3 inches in height of the liquid.4. Cover with a clean cheesecloth. The culture is allowed to grow at room temperature

for 15 days or more. Note: Do not move the jars during growth period.5. Harvest is ready after 15 days or more, making sure that all conditions are aseptic so

as to enable one to reuse the remaining liquid which serves as starter for succeeding preparations.

6. Dessert Making: The "nata" is cut into cubes and is subjected to a series of boiling with fresh water until acidity is totally removed. One kilo of refined sugar is added for every kilo of nata and are mixed. It is brought to boiling until the "nata" cubes become transparent.

Source: Technology developed by: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food technology, Nata de coco, Coconut milk

NATA DE KALABASA(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

Kalabasa peels and core SugarGlacial acetic acidAmmonium sulfateNata starter (available at ITDI)

Procedure:

1. Wash the peels and core of kalabasa, add 3 parts water for every part of peel/core. Boil for 3 minutes.

2. Strain then for every 4 cups of strained liquid from boiled peels/core, and 2/3 cup sugar and 1 ¼ tsp. ammonium sulfate.

3. Heat for 15 minutes, then cool. Add 1 1/4 tsp. acetic acid to adjust the acidity favorable to the growth of the nata organism then add 2/3 cup of nata starter (available at ITDI) for every 4 cups of kalabasa mixture.

4. Set aside for 10-15 days, then harvest the nata product.5. Cook one kilo of nata in one of kilo sugar to come up with delightful dessert.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food technology, Nata de kalabasa, Squash fruit

BURONG ISDA(back to food production and preservation)

Burong isda is a product from salted fish with fermented rice.

Materials:

1 kilo fish (dalag or hito)2/3 cup salt3 1/3 cup rice6 2/3 cup water angkak

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Equipment: Fermenting vessels

Procedure:

Preparation of the fish

1. Remove scales from the fish.2. Slice from head to tail, clean, wash and drain excess water completely.3. Salt and cover the fish to prevent flies from laying eggs. Allow to stand for two hours.

Preparation of rice

1. Cook the rice and cool, then blend with angkak to develop a characteristic flavor and to impart an appetite stimulating color.

2. Pack salted fish in a mixture of salt, rice and angkak into a jar.3. Cover the jar with plastic bag to exclude air. Ferment for 7-10 days. Fermentation

gives a pinkish color to the mixture.

Cooking

1. Saute the fermented mixture with garlic and onions.2. Fish flesh is soft and the originally hard bones becomes tender like a cartillage after it

is cooked.

Source: Industrial Technology Development Institute (DOST)

Keywords: Food preservation, Dried fish

DRIED FISH(back to food production and preservation)

Dried fish commonly called as "tuyo" is a favorite food of Filipinos. Dried fish is prepared by frying or smoking and also used as condiment in some food preparations.

Raw Materials:

Fresh fishCoarse fishEquipment:Solar drier/any drierBasinsCutting knives

Procedure:

1. Clean thoroughly fresh fish and split into butterfly fillet (for smaller fish, splitting is not necessary).

2. Soak fish in ten (10) percent brine for 30 minutes to leach out the blood. Soak in 33% brine for 3-6 hours.

3. Drain the water from the fish and arrange on drying trays.4. Dry the fish under the sun or in an artificial drier at 65-70 C.5. Cool and then place in polyethylene bags.

Source: Industrial Technology Development Institute (DOST)

Keywords: Food preservation, Dried fish

CRISPY DILIS

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(back to food production and preservation)

The dried dilis is made crispy to deep frying toasted dilis coated with cornstarch. Crispy dilis is tastier compared to dried dilis and is eaten directly from the pack.

Materials:

Dried dilisEgg yolkCornstarchCooking oilSpices (black pepper, siling labuyo, salt, vetsin) to taste

Equipment: Toaster, Frying pan

Procedure:

1. Toast dried "dilis" and set aside to cool.2. Coat cooled "dilis" first with the mixture of salt, beaten egg yolk, vetsin and spices;

and then with cornstarch.3. Deep fry the coated "dilis" for a few seconds.4. Cool and pack in polyethylene bags.

Source: Industrial Technology Development Institute (DOST)

Keywords: Food technology, Dried fish

SMOKED FISH (TINAPA)(back to food production and preservation)

Materials: 1 kilo tamban or galunggong, Salt

Utensils: Kitchen knife, Smoking trays, Tin cans

Procedure:

1. Cut the fish along the back just above the backbone to split it open leaving the belly solid.

2. Remove all internal organs and blood.3. Make another cut under the backbone.4. Wash well and soak for 30 minutes in a solution of 1/2 cup salt and 4 cups water.5. Place fish in a coarsely woven basket and dip in boiling 10% salt solution

(approximately 6 tbsp. salt for every 4 cups water until the eyes turn white).6. Arrange fish in smoking trays and drain for 10 minutes.7. Partially dry fish in cool, shady place for about 3 hours before smoking.8. Smoke fish at 32-38 C for 1-2 hours or until golden brown in color.9. Cool smoked fish for a while and brush with vegetable oil.

Source: NSTA Compendium of Transferrable/Commerciable Technologies ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food technology, Smoked fish

FISH BALLS(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

1 kilo fish (lapu-lapu, talakitok, apahap, maya-maya, or carp)

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2 carrots2 potatoes1 head garlic2 eggs3/4-1 1/4 cups cornstarchginger, pepper, salt,vetsin and soysauceUtensils:Kitchen knifeChopping boardMeasuring cupsStrainerLadleFrying panKettleStoveJars/bottles

Procedure:

1. Boil fish for 3-5 minutes in water with ginger.2. Strain and put in a container. Remove the heads entrails, skin and bones. Flake the

fish.3. Peel and chop the carrots, onions, garlic and potatoes. Mix and combine with the fish

flakes.4. Grind. Add the eggs, salt, pepper, vetsin and cornstarch.5. Mash and form into balls.6. Boil fish stock. Drop fish ball one by one into the boiling fish stock. Drain.7. Deep fry in hot oil.8. Store in sterilized bottles, add 2% brine solution (1 tsp. salt for every 4 cups water).9. Cover and boil for 11/2 hours.10. Store for 12 days.

Source: UNLAD, NSDB Appropriate Technology Series No. 2

Keywords: Food preparation, Fish balls

FISH QUEKIAM(back to food production and preservation)

A delicacy which originated from the Chinese, this food is ready to be served after steaming, fresh from the cans or fried before serving (Embotido style). It can be served with soy sauce and kalamansi.

Materials:

Fish, filleted and chopped1/2 cup chopped shrimps1/2 cup chopped onions1/2 cup singkamas, in small cubes1/2-3/4 tbsp. refined salt11/2 tsp. white pepper3 tbsp. cornstarchVegetable oil (to grease cans) 1 tsp./can

Equipment: Utility bowls, Pressure cooker, Can sealer

Procedure:

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1. Blend all ingredients thoroughly and fill into oil-greased cans (C-enameled type, 307x201.25).

2. Exhaust cans by heating over steam to an internal temperature of 82 C (180 F) for twenty (20) minutes.

3. Seal tightly and process in a pressure cooker at 15 psig and 250 F for 45 minutes.4. Cool, dry, label and store properly the cans.5. When making Kalaso Quekiam, wrap the blended mixture in "taope" (approximately 3

cm. dia. and 14 cm. long) and fry in vegetable oil until golden brown prior to canning.

Source: Technology developed by: ITDI (DOST)Keywords: Food technology, Fish quekiam

DEHYDRATED VEGETABLE PRODUCTS(back to food production and preservation)

Because of oversupply, vegetables and fruits in season often wilt and spoil in our markets. The producers are forced to sell cheap and get only a small profit. By processing and preserving abundant, in season fruits and vegetables, people can sell these at much higher prices during the off-season. Preservation makes vegetables and fruits more palatable.

Here are some of the methods:

A. Dehydrated Carrots

1. Select fresh mature carrots with deep orange color, free from woody fiber.2. Wash thoroughly in running water.3. Peel and dice into 4 mm. x 10 mm. x 10 mm. cubes.4. Arrange in wide nylon or sinamay basket and blanch by exposing to live steam over

rapidly boiling water for 3 minutes.5. Immerse the blanched carrots in cooked cornstarch for one minute.6. Drain the cornstarch and arrange carrots in trays.7. Dry in a cabinet dryer at 60-65 C for 7-8 hours, or under the sun until the pieces of

carrots show no moisture when pressed between the fingers.8. Pack in plastic bags and seal.

B. Dehydrated sitaw

1. Cut sitaw into desired lengths.2. Steam for 5 minutes.3. Dry in a "forced airdraft oven" at a temperature of 60 C. Complete dryness is show

when it becomes crispy.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food preservation, Vegetable products, Dehydration

VEGETABLE PICKLING(back to food production and preservation)

Procedure:

1. Wash thoroughly carrots, cauliflower, ampalaya, singkamas, winged beans (seguidillas), red and green pepper, and green papaya.

2. Peel, cut into desired sizes, and wash. Drain well and pack in sterilized culture jars.3. Boil four cups of water and one-third cup of salt.4. Cool and strain the solution with cheesecloth.

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5. Add one-fourth teaspoon of alum (tawas) and pour into the vegetable-packed jars. Cover and set aside. Add two tablespoons of salt for every four cups of water and one-third cup of salt daily for four days.

6. After four days, wash the vegetables to reduce saltiness, and repack in the jars.7. Prepare the sweet-and-sour solution by boiling one cup water, three cups of vinegar

and two-thirds cup of refined sugar.8. Cool the solution, strain and pour into the jars. Cover and set aside, adding five

tablespoons of sugar for every four cups of sweet sour solution daily for three days.9. Transfer the vegetables from the culture jars after these days are arrange them in

sterilized preserving jars. Boil the sweet-and-sour solution, then pour through a cheesecloth into the preserving jars.

10. Half-seal and exhaust for five minutes. Seal completely and process for 10 minutes.

Source: ITDI (DOST)Keywords: Food preservation, Vegetable products, Pickles

CORNED BEEF(back to food production and preservation)

Ingredients:

1 kg. beef (punta y pecho, tadyang, tapadera, kamto or paypay)1/2 tablet ascorbic acid (500 mg.)2 tbsp. salt1/2 tsp. vetsin1/4 tsp. prague powder1 tsp. sugar

Equipment:

KnifeChopping boardBasinMeasuring spoonPressure cooker (in the absence of a pressure cooker, a casserole may be used)Measuring cup (liquid)ColanderFork

Procedure:

1. Wash meat thoroughly.2. Cut the meat into 1 inch cubes.3. Mix the salt, vetsin, prague powder and sugar.4. Mix the curing ingredients with the cubed meat.5. Place in covered container and cure in the refrigerator for 3-4 days.6. Wash the meat, add water (1/3 of its volume) and cook for 20 minutes. Remove the

foam-like formation on the broth.7. Continue boiling until meat is soft and tender, for faster cooking use a pressure cooker

and cook beef for 30 minutes at 10 lbs. pressure.8. Drain and cool.9. Flake with fork. (The flaked meat is ready for consumption). For longer storage

period, follow procedures 5, 10 to 15.10. Pack meat into bottles/cans and add broth, leave 1/4 inch head space.11. Exhaust bottles/cans by boiling it with covers slightly closed.12. Seal thoroughly.13. Process at 10 lbs. pressure for 10 minutes.

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14. Air-cool cans should be cooled under running water while air-cool bottles at room temperature.

15. Label and store in a cool place.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food processing, Corned beef, Animal products

DEHYDRATED BEEF BLOOD(back to food production and preservation)

The dehydrated beef blood with a protein content of 80-82% protein has a shelf life of five (5) months when packed in polyethylene bags. They may be also be fortified with vitamins. Dehydrated beef blood could be incorporated in recipes or in the preparation of high protein biscuits, curls and others.

Materials: Beef blood

Equipment: Containers, Meat grinder, Trays, Pulverizer

Procedure:

Two methods of preparing dehydrated beef blood are as follows:

1. Collect beef blood in a very sanitary manner by using thoroughly clean containers and collection cups. Steam for 20 minutes, grind in a meat grinder and dry in aluminum trays at 60 C until thoroughly dry. Pulverize the dried product into powder.

2. Pass the beef blood through a grinder to break the clots, dry in aluminum trays coated with an edible wax (to prevent sticking) at 60 C for the first 2 hours, then at 55 C during the succeeding hours until thoroughly dry. Grind the dried product into powder.

Source: Technology developed by: Food and Nutrition Research Institute (DOST)

Keywords: Food technology, Beef blood, Dehydration

TOSINO (SALTED PORK)(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

PorkSaltSugar salitreUtensils:Kitchen knifeBowl with coverMeasuring spoon

Procedure:

1. Slice pork into 1 cm. thickness.2. For every kg. of meat, mix the following ingredients and rub on both sides of the

pork;11/2 tbsp. salt, 4-5 tbsp. sugar, 1/3 tsp. Salitre.3. Place salted pork in a clean covered container and keep in a cool place or in a

refrigerator for 3-5 days.4. Wash a little and cook. Tosino will last for 1/2 month when kept in a refrigerator.

Keywords: Food preservation, Salted pork

21

CHICHARON(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

1 kilo of pork skin1 tsp. salt4 tbsp. vinegarvetsin and pepper

Procedure:

1. Boil the pork skin in a sufficient amount of the prepared solution until tender.2. After boiling, cool and remove the fat portion.3. Slice into desired sizes.4. Dry under the sun until firm.5. Deep-fry at about 188 C and strain.6. Pack in plastic bags.

Source: Industrial Technology Development Institute (DOST)Keywords: Food processing, Pork skin

BONELESS HAM(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

2 kilos pork meat (kasim or pigi)Injecting solution:1 cup water1/2 cup salt1/4 cup sugar (white)3 tsp. prague powder1 tsp. vetsin1 tsp. cal. ham. spice1/2 tablet ascorbic acidCuring solution (cover pickle)8 cups water2 cups salt1/2 cup sugar (brown)2 tbsp. prague powderOr dry curing mixture1 cup salt1/2 cup brown sugar2 tsp. prague powder

Procedure:

1. Dissolve salt and sugar in boiling water for injecting solution. Cool then strain through clean cloth. Add vetsin and prague powder. Inject the solution into different parts of the meat.

2. Soak in curing solution for 4-5 days in the refrigerator.3. After curing, wash off the excess salt by soaking in warm water. Drain by hanging.

COOKING OF HAM

1. Boil the ham in enough water for 5 minutes.

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2. Discard water and boil again the ham in another water until soft. Carefully remove the skin.

3. Finally cook the ham in the following mixture for about one hour. For every kilo of ham add: ¾ cup of beer, 2 pcs. cloves, 2 pcs. bayleaves, 1 cup pineapple juice, 1 cup sugar, enough water to cover.

4. Cover the ham with brown sugar and place in an oven until it is well-caramelized or use red hot "siyanse."

Source: ITDI (DOST)Keywords: Food technology, Boneless ham

SKINLESS LONGANISA(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

3/4 kilo ground pork, lean1/4 kilo ground pork fat2 tbsp. salt1 tbsp. chopped garlic2 tbsp. wine or gin1 tsp. pepper1 tsp. vetsin1 tsp. accord powder5 tbsp. brown sugar1/4 tsp. prague powder (available at ITDI)1/2 tablet Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) 500 mg.

Procedure:

1. Mix ground pork and the rest of the ingredients.2. Form into 2-3 inches long links.3. Individually wrap in cut rite paper.4. Allow to cure in refrigerator for 2-3 days.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food processing, Ground pork, Skinless longanisa

DEEP-FRIED HIGH PROTEIN CRUNCHIES(back to food production and preservation)

The product contains 14.6% protein and provides 450 calories per 100 grams

Materials:

800 grams rice flour150 grams skim milk50 grams dehydrated beef blood20 grams sugar15 grams salt

Utensils: Mixer, Trays, Steamer, Dryer, Frying pan

Procedure:

1. Combine rice flour, skim milk powder, dehydrated beef blood, sugar and salt.2. Add water and mix to a smooth paste.3. Spread uniformly on trays and steam for 20 minutes.

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4. Form into sheets and shape as desired.5. Dry at 60-70 C for 2-3 hours.6. Deep fry in oil until crisp.7. Coat with artificial flavor such as barbecue flavor.8. Pack in suitable packaging material such as polyethylene bags.

Source: Technology developed by: Food and Nutrition Research Institute

Keywords: Food processing, Rice flour, Crunchies

KROPECK FROM SHRIMP HEADS(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

1 kilo shrimp heads (blanched)1/2 kilo rice2 tbsp. salt1 tbsp. vetsin5 tbsp. limewater (prepared by dissolving 1 tbsp. lime in 1 cup water) pinch of black pepper

Procedure:

1. Soak rice in water overnight. Then grind together with the shrimp heads, which were previously blanched. The ground mixture should be very fine. Mix salt, vetsin, limewater, and black pepper for flavoring.

2. Pour the mixture into a greased pan -- an aluminum pie plate can serve the purpose. Steam for two or three minutes. Then slice into desired sizes. Dry the kropeck under the sun for one to two days until it turns brittle. Finally, fry the dried kropeck.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal June 1982

Keywords: Food technology, Shrimp heads, Kropeck

PAPAYA JAM(back to food production and preservation)

Materials: 4 cups mashed ripe papaya, 31/2 cups sugar, 1/3 cup kalamansi juice

Procedure:

1. Ripe papaya is peeled and the seeds removed. The clean papaya is mashed to a fine pulp.

2. Strain through a coarse perforated strainer and measure.3. Boil gently, add sugar and kalamansi juice, continue boiling until desired consistency is

obtained.4. Transfer in sterilized bottles.

Source: ITDI (DOST)Keywords: Food technology, Papaya, Jam

MANGO-TOMATO JAM(back to food production and preservation)

Materials: Ripe mangoes, Ripe tomatoes, Sugar

Procedure:

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1. The mango fruit is peeled and mashed after removing the seeds.2. Blanch the tomatoes, remove the seeds and chopped finely.3. Combine the mashed tomato and mango.4. Add 11/2 cup sugar for every 2 cups of the mashed mixture. Then cook the mixture.5. Cooking the mixture should be done until thick and transfer while hot to well sterilized

jars and sealed tightly. Boil again for 20 minutes.

Source: ITDI (DOST)Keywords: Food technology, Mango, Tomato, Jam

GUAVA JAM(back to food production and preservation)

Materials: Ripe guavas, Sugar

Procedure:

1. Ripe fruits are washed, peeled and the seeds removed.2. The fruits are mashed. To one part of the mash add 1 part sugar. Boil mixture gently

until thick. To avoid unnecessary caramelization, kalamansi juice is added as in mango jam.

3. While still hot, pack in well sterilized jars and seal tightly.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food processing, Guava, Jam

PRESERVED CAMIAS(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

SugarCamias (medium sized)Lime (apog)Utensils:Measuring cupsSpoonColander or salaanRolling pinKettleJars

Procedure:

1. Select large, firm camias.2. Soak in lime water (1 tsp. lime or "apog" to a liter of water) overnight. Wash and

remove caps.3. Boil in plenty of water using a stainless steel or enameled kettle.4. Drain and press each fruit lightly to remove excess water.5. To 2 parts of sugar add 1 part of water and boil in stainless steel or enameled kettle.6. Add the camias to this syrup and boil for about 15 minutes.7. Drain. Pack camias in sterilized jars and pour syrup.8. Remove air bubbles.9. Seal completely and process in 227 ml. jars for 20 minutes in boiling water. Reseal

completely and cool.

25

For Camias Candy:

Wash and drain completely the camias. Dry in a solar dryer for a period of 18-24 hours. Then cool and pack in plastic bags.

Source: UNLAD, NSDB Appropriate Technology

Keywords: Food preservation, Kamias fruit

TOMATO CANDY(back to food production and preservation)

Procedure:

1. Wash, blanch and peel the ripe tomatoes, cut crosswise into halves and remove seeds. (Don't squeeze the tomatoes, just press gently).

2. Dry the tomatoes. Put 1 part sugar for every part of tomato halves, let stand overnight.

3. Boil slowly in the pan until tomatoes are semi-transparent. Drip off the syrup.4. Spread the pieces on a single layer in trays. Sun dry or put in oven until semi-dried.5. Roll in fine granulated sugar. Dry further, wrap in cellophane, then pack in plastic

bags.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food processing, Tomato, Candies

VEGE-SWEETS(back to food production and preservation)

Vegetables are not all for making viands. These herbaceous plants which are chiefly served before the dessert can now be a delightful treat for those with a sweet tooth. Eggplant, sayote, tomatoes, "kalabasa" and other edible vegetables can be made into jelly, jam, candy and nata. With abundant vegetables in some areas, sweets processing techniques can be employed to come up with nutritious food items served after meals. Also, these simple food processes could help people earn extra income by utilizing locally-grown vegetables.

Eggplant Jam

1. Boil the eggplant, peel, then mash.2. Add 11/2 cups refined sugar to 3/4 cups mashed eggplant. Put vanilla flavoring and

one tbsp. kalamansi juice for every cup of eggplant "puree."3. Add food color just to retain the color of the eggplant.4. Cook for 30 minutes until right consistency of jam (when it can be scooped out) is

attained.5. Hot packed in bottles. Cool and store.

Keywords: Food processing, Vegetable products

SAYOTE-PIÑA JAM(back to food production and preservation)

Procedure:

1. Peel the sayote, store into thin strips.2. Peel rare ripe pineapple, remove eyes and chop finely. Crush the fruit (Piña in cans can

be used as substitute for fresh ones).3. Mix one part of slice sayote to one part crushed pineapple.

26

4. Add 3/4 cups refined sugar for every cup of mixture, 11/2 tsp. kalamansi juice for every 4 cups of sayote-piña mixture, and stir thoroughly.

5. Hot packed in bottles and seal immediately.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food processing, Vegetable product, Jam

KALABASA LECHE FLAN(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

For every cup of mashed kalabasa1 cup condensed milk1 egg1/4 tsp. vanilla2 heaping teaspoon brown sugar to be caramelized.

Procedure:

1. Peel the kalabasa and boil for 20 minutes. Mash thoroughly using a fork.2. Combine the mashed mixture, milk and vanilla.3. Beat the egg and add to the mixture.4. Caramelize the brown sugar and line the pan mold.5. Pour the mixture into the lined pan mold and cover with aluminum foil or plastic.6. Steam in hot water (double boiler) for 25 minutes or until done.

Source: Philippine Farmers' Journal June 1982

Keywords: Food preparation, Squash leche flan

HOME-MADE ICE CREAM(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

1/2 gal. powdered milk11/2 gal. coco milk1/3 gal. evaporated milk2 kilo sugar1/3 kilo cornstarch

Procedure:

1. Mix all ingredients together in a mixer until it is foamy.2. Transfer into a casserole and boil for 15 minutes to sterilize the mixture. Cool.3. Add the desired flavoring (vanilla, lemon or kalamansi, chocolate, coffee, peanuts or

casuy, etc.)4. Place in a freezer for 30 minutes or until slightly frozen.5. Remove from the freezer and beat again until thick.6. Transfer the mixture into can containers, and cover.7. Submerge the can containers in ice with salt for 20 minutes or until the mixture

solidifies into ice cream.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Food preparation, Ice cream

27

PROCESS CARABAO'S MILK INTO NUTRITIOUS SNACKS(back to food production and preservation)

Materials

1 liter carabao's milk (equiv. to one big Pepsi bottle)3 cups sugar

Procedure:

Sandwich spread.

1. Boil the mixture in a wide-mouth open kettle or frying pan under low heat until about one-third of the water has evaporated. The mixture will then thicken to a consistency similar to sweetened condensed milk.

2. Store the product in sterilized screw-capped bottles like used coffee bottles or plastic containers.

Pastilyas de leche.

1. The mixture is cooked further until it becomes brown.2. Then, let it cool and mold it into long bars like "tira-tira," a locally-sold hard

caramelized candy.

Kesong puti (curd making).

1. The principle behind cheese or curd making is to reduce the milk's moisture content and then add salt.

2. Heat one liter of milk to 40 C. If a thermometer is not available, this temperature can be determined by dipping the back of the hand on the surface of the milk. If the heat can still be tolerated for a few minutes, the temperature is just right.

3. Remove the container from the stove, then add 20 m. of crude rennet extract, prepared by soaking a piece of dried abomasum (one of the four stomachs of cattle, available in slaughterhouses) in warm water and a spoonful of vinegar.

4. In about 30 minutes, the milk will settle and form lumps called curd.5. Cut the curd into cubes the size of corn kernels, then put these in a container and heat

for 30 minutes until they melt.6. Stir them gently. Add one tablespoon of salt. Mix thoroughly, cool, leave the container

for about five minutes and drain off excess water.7. Add one teaspoon of sodium citrate (available in drugstores) to serve as preservative.

After thorough mixing, you can then put the cheese-like product in air-tight plastic bags. The curd can be stored for over a week. This curd is cheese.

Keywords: Food technology, Milk, Animal product

JUBILEE CHEESE(back to food production and preservation)

Materials:

5 liters goat's milk125 gms. salt30 cc DTRI-IFS-6 (milk coagulant)1 gm. nutmeg powderUtensils used:5-liter saucepanScoop or dipper, kitchen knife, ladle

28

Basin, thermometer, cheeseclothPerforated plastic tray or any desired moldBanana leaves or plastic sheetsNylon cloth as strainerStove

Procedure:

1. Strain the milk through a nylon cloth, pour into a sauce pan. Add salt and stir well until completely dissolved. Then, heat it over a low flame to 75 C, stirring slowly. At this temperature, steam or vapor may be seen rising from the milk surface when the milk is about to simmer.

2. Immediately cool milk to 38 C by placing saucepan in a basin of cold or tap water. Add the milk coagulant, and stir the milk for one minute. Cover and leave the milk undisturbed for 30 to 40 minutes. With a kitchen knife, cut the coagulated milk or coagulum into one-inch cubes. Without disturbing the curd, remove the free whey by means of a scoop or dipper.

3. Gently stir the curd now and then to enhance separation of the whey, and continue to remove the free whey until it amounts to 2.5 liters. Mix one gram of nutmeg powder with the partially drained curd. Scoop the spiced curd into a perforated tray lined with c cheesecloth. Level curd thickness. Cover curd with cheesecloth and allow whey to drain for one hour.

4. Cut the knitted curd into pieces of desired size, and serve. The cheese may be wrapped in plastic streets or banana leaves and stored in the refrigerator overnight before serving. Jubilee cheese may be served on top of a lettuce leaf garnished with slices of tomato or peach.

5. One to 1.3 kilograms of Jubilee cheese can be produced from five liters of goat's milk.

Keywords: Food technology, Cheese, Animal product

PROLONGING THE SHELF-LIFE OF SHRIMPS(back to food production and preservation)

A Japanese expert on shrimps from the Southeast Asia Fisheries and Development Center SEAFDEC) in Iloilo has conducted this experiment so as to prolong the life of shrimps even when packed for transporting. Results showed that 93% of the shrimps were still alive and could swim when placed in water.

Procedure:

1. Dry sawdust (from white lauan) under the sun for 1 day.2. Place in plastic bags and cool in a refrigerator until a temperature of 15 C is obtained.3. Place the shrimps in a basin of sea water, slowly add ice until it reaches a temperature

of 18 C.4. Remove the shrimps from the water, transfer into the sawdust inside the plastic bags

and arrange in a container lined with styrofoam.5. Place about 300 grams of cracked ice into the plastic bags; seal and place on top of the

sawdust.6. Close the container tightly with a masking tape.7. On the following day, wash the shrimps with iced seawater.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal March 1980

Keywords: Fish technology, Shrimps, Shelf life

SOME TIPS ON HOW TO CHOOSE FRESH SEAFOODS(back to food production and preservation)

29

FRESH FISH

-- intact abdomen and bell walls-- natural slime covering-- shiny and tight skin-- bright red gills-- clear, full eyes-- firm flesh-- mild, fishy color

FRESH SHELLFISH

-- closed shells-- clear creamy neat color

FRESH CRABS

-- are heavy for their bulk-- have firm joints that are still when bent

FRESH SHRIMPS

-- mild odor-- firm meat-- shell that fits tightly

Source: Farmers' Journal, 1982 FNRI

Keywords: Fish technology, Sea foods, Fish products FARMING

NEW QUICK PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING FISH SAUCE (PATIS) AND FISH PASTE (BAGOONG)(back to food production and preservation)

High quality fish sauce (patis) with 13.6% protein content and fish paste (bagoong).

Materials:

Fish of assorted speciesEnzymes from micro-organismsSalt

Equipment: Fermentation vessels provided with stirrer

Procedure:

1. Wash assorted species of fish to free them from undesirable dirt.2. Grind fish to facilitate hydrolysis of the protein constituent.3. Place ground fish into clean fermentation vessels provided with stirrer.4. Add appropriate amount of salt and mix uniformly to inhibit the growth of micro-

organisms during fermentation.5. Introduce enzymes obtained from micro-organisms of plant animals to fortify the

natural endoenzymes present in the fish. Stir the mixture.6. Adjust the pH requirement of the particular enzyme used.7. Ferment for 13 days. Clean the digested mash by filtering. Bottle the clear reddish

brown liquid as patis and the residue containing some insoluble protein as "bagoong."

30

8. Fermentation is allowed to occur for 13 days. The digested mash is cleared and from the filtered clear reddish brown liquid is bottled as quality patis and the residue containing some insoluble protein as bagoong.

Keywords: Food technology, Fish sauces, Flavorings

31

BOOK I (back to main page)

Farming

The Production Of Temperate Mushroom (Agaricus)Ripening Of Banana Can Be DelayedGrowing GarlicUse Of Salt As Fertilizer For Coconut (Sodium Chloride)How To Grow GabiSoil From Swamps Can Be Used As FertilizersRecycle Eggshells As FertilizersIntercropping Coconuts With GingerBio-Control Of Crop DiseasesProtein From Copra Meal As Feeds For PigsSawdust For Animal FeedsPreserved Colostrums Can Replace Whole MilkCorn Cobs Can Be Fed To CattleDried Poultry Manure For DairyCows With Trimmed Hooves Produced More MilkVitamin C Makes Pig Grows Faster BiggerGive Broilers Banana Leaf MealSimpler Way To Find Out Feed DeficiencyHerbal Plants For Chicken WormsDuck Breeding Operation

THE PRODUCTION OF TEMPERATE MUSHROOM (AGARICUS)(back to farming menu)

Materials:

Rice straw, 500 kg. (sugarcane bagasse, sugarcane leaves as substitutes)WaterChicken manure (dried), 15-25%Urea, 1.5%Ammonium sulfate, 2%Lime, 4%Calcium sulfate, 2-2.5%Potash, 1.5-2.0%Equipment:

1.5m x 10m x 1m compost bedThe Growing HouseProcedure:1. Preparation of compost - Straw is filed on the compost bed and water is sprinkled as filing is being done until water overflows on the sides. The pile is turned every fourth day. Chicken manure and urea are added on the first turning and ammonium sulfate and 2% lime on the second turning. The lumps formed are broken during the fermentation. Calcium sulfate, potash and the remaining 2% lime is supplemented on the third and last turning. Composting is completed for 16-20 days, depending on the rate of fermentation.

2. Bedding - In the newly composted materials are placed on shelves to a thickness of 12-15 cm. inside the growing house. The growing house must be enclosed for 5 days to conserve heat and increase the temperature to 55-65 C.3. Planting and Casing One-half kg. spawns per square meter of the bed are planted. The beds are then covered with 1.2 cm. soil that is obtained one (1) meter below the surface and previously mixed with 1% lime. The growing house is closed for two (2) weeks with occasional checking of spawn run. At a temperature of 17-22 C and a relative humidity of 85-90%, the first crop is harvested 20 days after casing.

32

4. Care and Management To prevent the contamination of white mold (Monilla sp.), green molds Penicillin sp.) and blue molds (Trichoderma), the following are employed:a. Spot spray with Benlate at 1 tbsp. per 1/3 gallon of water.b. Spray Azodrin to control millipedesc. Spray ferrous sulfate at 200 ppm concentration to induce uniform break or pinhead

formation.d. Spray with Fuxal, a liquid fertilizer at a concentration of 1,000 ppm after the break.e. Spray with tap water when relative humidity becomes lower than 75%.Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Agriculture, Mushroom production

RIPENING OF BANANA CAN BE DELAYED(back to farming menu)

Bananas (also other fruits and vegetables) emits gas called "ethylene." The presence of this gas inside the enclosed bags when transported for shipment coupled with high temperature hasten the fruit's ripening process. A food expert devised a new, low-cost treatment for prolonging the storage life of bananas and other fruits and vegetables during transport. A charcoal-like material was placed inside a plastic bag which absorbs the ethylene gas given off by the bananas. It measures 15 x 15 x 2 cm. and soaked in a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate. Two slices were placed in each plastic bag containing a bunch of banana and tied at both ends with tape. They were cooled at a constant temperature of 20 C.Those packed in plastic bag without the charcoal-like absorbent ripened in just two weeks. The treated ones remained hard green, as if newly harvested and when the plastic bag was taken off, the fruits ripened normally.Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal July 1980Keywords: Agriculture, Bananas, Ripening

GROWING GARLIC(back to farming menu)

Garlic grows well in clay, alluvial and sandy loam soils. Sandy loam, properly applied with fertilizer, generally produces big, compact and heavy bulbs of good quality. Heavier soils such as clay loam also give profitable yields if they are cultivated and fertilized properly. Garlic requires cool weather during the early stage of growth thus it is best to plant them on the months of October and November. Prepare the pieces of cloves in the afternoon, the day before planting. Carefully separate the cloves from each other, taking care not to injure them. Choose only the big pieces for planting. Soak the cloves for two minutes in a solution of Malathion prepared by mixing three tablespoonfuls in five gallons of water). Treating the cloves with Malathion would kill the microscopic mites that cause "tangle top," a common garlic disease. Drain off the solution and put the cloves in a clean container for planting.Land Preparation: If the field is weedy and/or the soil surface is very irregular, plow and harrow the land thoroughly to kill weed seeds and to produce a fine, firm, smooth and level surface. Broadcast the recommended amount of fertilizers and mix thoroughly with the soil before leveling the field. For one hectare, use 125 to 175 kilos each of urea (45-0-0) and 14-14-14 or 12-24-12 NPK fertilizers. Mix the two fertilizers thoroughly. If urea is not available, use 235 to 270 kilos of ammonium sulphate. Mix with 115 to 130 kilos of 14-14-14 or 12-24-12 fertilizers. After applying the fertilizers and levelling the field, spread rice straw evenly throughout the entire paddy to a thickness of about 5 cms. Irrigate the field just enough to moist the soil. In a few days, the field is ready for planting. In planting, mark the rows with the use of parallel lines of string spaced 20 cms. apart and placed just on top of the straw mulch. Hold the clove between the thumb and forefinger and set one-fourth of the clove into the soil. Then press the soil slightly but firmly towards the clove. Plant the cloves at intervals of 20 cms. in the row.Garlic does not need much irrigation. As long as there is sufficient soil moisture, bulb formation would be normal. The plants are ready to be harvested as soon as three-fourths of the

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tops or leaves become fully ripe or dry. Lift the matured plants gently from the ground and then arrange the direct heat of the sun.Pests and Diseases: The important pests of garlic are mites and cut worms. Cut worms can be controlled by spraying the plants with solutions of: EPN-300 at three tablespoonfuls in five gallons of water plus sticker; and Imidan 50 W.P. at three tablespoonfuls in five gallons water plus sticker. Against mites, use Tedion V-18 at three tablespoonfuls of water. Spray the plants once a week. Pink Root which can be prevented only by planting resistant varieties.Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal March 1981Keywords: Agriculture, Garlic

USE OF SALT AS FERTILIZER(back to farming menu)

USE OF SALT AS FERTILIZER FOR COCONUT

The application of sodium chloride (NaCl) can increase nut production, copra weight per nut and copra yield per tree. Research studies on chloride nutrition and fertilization of coconuts were extensively reported in 1972 on the positive responses of young and bearing coconuts to chlorine application. This was the result of adding potassium chloride to palms at the Davao Research Center of the Philippine Coconut Authority in Bago Oshiro, Davao City. The beneficial role of chlorine in the normal growth, accelerated development, and high nut and copra yields of coconuts was confirmed in the inland coconut-productive areas in Davao. Leaf chlorine is the main factor for copra yields; and for foliar diagnosis (a tool for nutritional diagnosis and predicting fertilizer needs), the critical level of leaf-Cl was found at 0.30% C1 and optimum level at 0.50-0.55% C1. The addition of 60-70 g NaCl/seedling can increase the plant's girth and fresh weight. It was found that seedlings from seednuts produced by NaC1-fertilized parent palms had bigger girths, more leaves, and higher total germination percentage, indicating that chlorine nutrition of parent palms is a positive factor in affecting the conditions of the seedlings in the industry.Source: Technology, PCARRD publicationKeywords: Agriculture, Fertilizer, Coconut

HOW TO GROW GABI(back to farming menu)

Gabi is one of the major rootcrops grown throughout the country. It can be grown almost anywhere, upland or lowland.Land preparation and planting:

1. Plow the field twice to loosen the soil.2. Harrow the field in a criss-cross manner to break the soil clods.3. Make furrows at a distance of 75 cm. Plant in the furrows. For irregular and hilly

areas, plant in holes.4. For upland culture, plant the seedpieces 7 to 10 cm. deep in the furrows, at a 50 cm.

distance between plants. When holes are prepared instead of furrows, slip the seed pieces into the holes and cover partially leaving the hollow around the plant.

5. For best results, select a field with alluvial loamFertilization: The amount and kind of fertilizer to use vary from place to place.1. Apply 60-60-60 kg. of NPK/ha. to yield 30 tons/ha.2. Use manure and compost when inorganic fertilizer is not available.3. Mix organic fertilizer with the soil during land preparation and allow to decompost for

1 to 2 weeks before planting.

Harvesting: Gabi plants should be harvested only when fully mature, that is when the leaves start yellowing and drying up. The mother plant is carefully lifted cut of the ground, clinging soil is removed from the soil, and the vegetative portion cut off.

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Source: Infoscience, Vol II, No. 1, 1982Keywords: Agriculture, Gabi plants

SOIL FROM SWAMPS CAN BE USED AS FERTILIZERS(back to farming menu)

One ton (1,000 kilos) of dry peat -- a mixture of soil and organic matter found mostly in swampy areas -- can supply as much as 40 kilos each of the major plant foods, or equivalent to two bags of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0 NPK). Peat is black in color and weighs relatively light.Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal June 1982Keywords: Agriculture, Fertilizers, Soil

RECYCLE EGGSHELLS AS FERTILIZERS(back to farming menu)

Eggshells can be used as fertilizers, cement and tile binder and paste ingredient after grinding them finely. They contain calcium, phosphorus, potassium and sulfur which makes plants robust and vigorous. Ground eggshells can also be used as a reinforcing ingredient in pastes. Mixed with starch, the sticky substance can bind paper effectively. When used as a cement binder, the mixture dries easily and as tile binder, it gives a hard but smooth finish. One part white cement is mixed with every two parts ground shell.Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal March 1981Keywords: Agriculture, Fertilizers, Eggshells

INTERCROPPING COCONUTS WITH GINGER(back to farming menu)

Ginger can be grown in sandy loam, clay loam, and lateritic soils, provided that the soil is at least 30 cm. deep and there is enough rainfall and good drainage in the area.Preparing the seedpieces:

1. Select fresh and healthy seedpieces weighing at least 20 grams each and showing signs of early sprouting.

2. Before planting, wash the seedpieces in running water. Then soak them for 10 to 15 minutes in a solution of acidulated mercuric bichloride (for every 20 liters water, add 45 grams captan).

Land preparation:1. Prepare raised beds one week before planting to ensure good drainage. Beds with two rows should be about 30 cms. high and less than two meters wide. Row lengths depends on the farmer's convenience. When beds are located in areas with high occurrences of soil-borne diseases, such as damping-off, the beds must be sterilized by burning dried rice straw, banana leaves or coconut leaves three times on the soil surface.2. Plant the seedpieces about five cms. deep in each hill 25 cms. apart in double row in each bed. Arrange the hills in a triangular pattern, whether the seedpieces are planted in poorly drained areas or areas. When planted under coconut trees, the seedpieces should be planted 25 to 20 cms. in shallow furrows 45 cms. apart.3. At the time of planting, fertilize the soil with complete fertilizer (12-24-12), 400 kg. if soil is sandy, 300 kg. if soil is clay-loam per hectare.4. After planting, mulch the beds or ridges with green leaves (either ipil-ipil or madre de cacao) or rice straw, 10,000 kg./hectare, to prevent the soil from drying and to prevent erosion caused by monsoon rains.5. During the second and fourth months of growth, apply fertilizer again. Generally, they should be weeded at least twice during its growth period.Harvesting: Ginger should be harvested when the leaves become yellow and start to wither. This occurs eight months after planting.6. In small harvesting areas, the crop is dug with a spading fork, the plant is pulled out, shakes off the soil and lays them on the bed. Stems are cut off without breaking the ginger

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bulbs.7. In large plantation areas, ginger is harvested by harrowing the soil, then dried an open shaded area.Source: Greenfields, March 1990Keywords: Agriculture, Intercropping,: Coconuts, Ginger

BIO-CONTROL OF CROP DISEASES(back to farming menu)

Many of our local plants contain helpful chemicals, particularly alkaloids, that are effective against fungal and bacterial diseases of other plants. Thus, they are mixed with the soil to control the fungus that causes the diseases of seedlings. Allow the leaves to decompose for about one week before transplanting the seedlings. Some of these leaves are as follows:

abaca leavesavocadoalibangbangacaciaampalayaatisguavascoconutcalamansistar-applechicogarlic orchiddatilesrimasonionspapayacacaocassavacalachuchi

sampalockakawatelanzonesgingermalunggaycowpeasampaguitasantan pulasantoljackfruittangladeggplantbeans (red variety)chichiricauposugarcanewatermelontobaccosaluyot

Thus, using plant leaves in controlling disease-causing organisms is no doubt cheaper than pesticides and insecticides. It is also simpler and easier to apply by merely incorporating the leaves with soil during cultivation. When decomposed, the leaves release certain chemicals which prevents harmful bacteria and fungi from attacking the crops. Besides controlling diseases, the leaves also increase the organic matter content of the soil, improving its structure and fertility.Source: Philippine Farmers' Journal June 1982Keywords: Pest management, Crop diseases

PROTEIN FROM COPRA MEAL AS FEEDS FOR PIGS(back to farming menu)

Researchers from UP Los Baños have found that copra meal can be a substitute for 39% corn and 52% soybean oil meal of the feed formulation for pigs. Corn and soybean oil meal constitutes a very important ingredients in the feeds for pigs. However, 10% of the corn and all soybean oil meal needed are imported from other countries thus causing an increase in the price of pork. Although previous studies requires that feeds for pigs should not contain more than 20% copra meal, it was further found out that when amino acid is added, even 40-45% copra meal added as an ingredient for the pig's feed will not show any adverse effect in the growth as well as in the meat. It should be assured however, that copra meal is free from aflatoxin content. The following ingredients needed in the feed formulation are as follows:For growing stage:copra meal 40.00% 11.70% or 12.00%41.25% or

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soybean oil mealyellow cornL-lysine HOLDL-methionineL-threonineDL-tryptophancoconut oildicalcium phosphatelimestone powderantibioticsaltvitamin-mineral premix

41.18% 0.66% or 0.65% 0.04% 0.13% 0.02% 3.06% or 2.99% 1.31% or 1.30% 1.08% or 1.09% 0.20% 0.30% 0.25% 100.00%

Formulation for grown pigs.

soybean mealwhite corncopra mealL-lysine HClDL-methionineL-threonineDL-tryptophancoconut oildicalcium phosphatesaltvitamin-mineral premixlimestone powder

---- 53.89% 40.00% 0.65% 0.04% 0.09% 0.03% 2.03% 1.39% 0.30% 0.20% 1.38%100.00%

Consult a veterinarian or inquire from feed suppliers on the procedure of mixing the ingredients.Source: Technology (PCARRD), Los Baños Vol. IX, No. 3, 1987Keywords: Livestock technology, Feeds, Copra meal, Swine

SAWDUST FOR ANIMAL FEEDS(back to farming menu)

Sawdust contains 50 to 60% cellulose and about 30% lignin. Cellulose is an important component in animal feeds as a source of energy while lignin acts as a barrier to the digestibility of cellulose. Thus, the animals can hardly digest the sawdust. The lignin can be removed or reduced by first treating the sawdust before it is fed to the animals.Materials:Sawdust, nitric acid, sodium hydroxideEquipment: Mixing vessel, DrierProcedure:

1. Step the sawdust in 5% nitric acid solution (V/V) at a ratio of one part sawdust to 10 parts nitric acid for one hour at 80 C.

2. Wash the nitrated sawdust with water.3. Soak the sawdust in a 5% sodium hydroxide solution for one hour. (To make 5%

sodium hydroxide solution, dissolve 50 gms. sodium hydroxide, technical grade, in one liter of water).

4. Thoroughly wash the sawdust and then air-dry.Source: Technology developed by: FPRDI (DOST)Keywords: Livestock technology, Animal feeds, Sawdust

PRESERVED COLOSTRUM CAN REPLACE WHOLE MILK(back to farming menu)

Based on research findings conducted by PCARRD-DOST and UP at Los Baños, colostrum, a dark yellow mammary secretion which precedes normal milk flow, can be preserved to totally replace whole milk in the diet of nursing calves. Replaced whole milk can then be processed for human consumption. Compared to whole milk, colostrum contains a higher amount of total solids, protein, ash, Vitamin A and riboflavin. More

37

importantly, it carries with it the blood serum, notably immunoglobulins and serum proteins, that gives the immunity to various diseases. A nursing cow produces colostrum for 3 to 5 days after delivery more than what its calf can ordinarily consume within that period. Unfortunately, the extra colostrum cannot be sold for human consumption because of its laxative effect.

Freezing is the most effective method of storing colostrum as far as preventing the breakdown of milk fat, protein and total solids and maintaining the quality of fresh colostrum are concerned. Fresh colostrum has a sweet fresh odor, dark yellow color, smooth consistency and pH of about 6.Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal June 1992Keywords: Animal Sciences, Colostrum

CORN COBS CAN BE FED TO CATTLE(back to farming menu)

Corn cobs can be fed to cattle as forage, but these have to be treated with a chemical to make them more digestible. A research conducted at the University of Nebraska in USA showed that crossbred steers (young male cattle) fed with corn cobs treated with calcium hydroxide gained twice as much weight as those fed with untreated cobs. American cattle raisers have been feeding treated corn cobs to their animals. The commonly-used chemical, however, is sodium hydroxide, which can leave a residue that is potentially harmful to soil, animals and humans. Calcium hydroxide, on the other hand, is safer and cheaper to use in treating corn cobs as cattle feed.Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal July 1982Keywords: Animal Sciences, Corn cobs, Feeds, Cattle

DRIED POULTRY MANURE FOR DAIRY(back to farming menu)

Cattle FeedingProtein concentrate is an important component of a dairy ration. However, conventional protein sources are too costly for the backyard farmer. This prompted the search for cheap sources of protein. The utilization of poultry waste as a protein source, either dried or fermented, has been the subject of investigation by several research institutions notably, the Dairy Training and Research Institute (DTRI) at UPLB, UP College of Veterinary Medicine, Bureau of Animal Industry and other research agencies. Studies showed that DPM contains about 22% crude protein and feed cost is reduced by 30% in DPM supplemented rations. Research conducted at the DTRI-UPLB revealed that at 23% of total ration, DPM was a good supplement to rice straw for dairy cattle from yearling to the end of the first lactation. However, at 45%, DPM rendered the ration unpalatable as manifested by poor intake, hence, stunted growth of the animals. Molasses is an important indigent in rice straw-DPM ration for improved palatability.

Procedure:1. Poultry manure which is free from bedding materials is collected and sundried for 3

days to reduce the moisture content to 15%. For this purpose, manure that is less than 2 months in storage is preferable.

2. The dried manure is pounded and mixed with concentrate ingredients, and molasses. The resulting mixture is blended with rice straw to form a complete ration:

Ingredientsrice strawDFMIpil-ipilMolasses and others

% dry matter 35 23 22 20

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Source: ”Dried Poultry Manure for Dairy Cattle Feeding," PCARRD-DOSTKeywords: Animal Sciences, Poultry manure, Feeds, Cattle

COWS WITH TRIMMED HOOVES PRODUCED MORE MILK(back to farming menu)

In a research study conducted in Carolina, USA corrective hoof trimming may give an added lactation to the cow. In other words, a good hoof condition is likely to result in a better milk performance for the milking cow. Walking or mating puts considerable stress on the cow's hooves and legs. Herds kept in concrete-floored stalls generally suffer from excessive hoof wear. On the other hand, cows kept in surfaces that are soft often get overgrown hoofs. In either case, the animal suffers. Sometimes the result is lameness, which according to experts may be caused by any of the following predisposing factors. Infection hits hardest when the animal has a wound. According to one professor of Purdue Univ. (USA), animals on high levels of nutrition grow more hoof, which cows on rubber mats have extremely dry hard hooves causing commercial hoof trimmers to charge more for their services. Whenever there is an indication of an incidence of foot rot, the herd should be made to walk through a foot bath containing a solution of two to five percent copper sulphate twice daily. Cows in herds that used foot baths had "better" feet-deeper heels, steeper angles and shorter claws. All these characteristics are indications of healthier, easier to manage animal feet.Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal June 1982Keywords: Animal Sciences, Cows,

VITAMIN C MAKES PIGS GROW FASTER, BIGGER (back to farming menu)

According to a team of experts from UP at Los Baños, adding ascorbic acid or Vitamin C to the diet of pigs -- 800 gms. for every kilo of feeds, will make them grow faster compared to those treated with normal diets. It was further noted that Vitamin-C treated pigs when slaughtered had a higher dressing percentage, leaner backfat and more lean cut yields.Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal March 1981Keywords: Animal Sciences, Pigs, Vitamins

GIVE BROILERS BANANA LEAF MEAL(back to farming menu)

According to a study conducted at Southern Mindanao Agricultural Research (Kabacan, North Cotabato) broilers fed with a ration containing five percent banana leaf meal (BLM) registered the highest average weight gain of 1.462 kilos, followed by those given a ration with 10 percent BLM at 1.373 kilos. On the other hand, those given commercial starter mash ration gained an average of 1.289 kilos.Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal June 1982Keywords: Livestock technology, Broilers, Banana leaves, Feeds

SIMPLER WAY TO FIND OUT FEED DEFICIENCY(back to farming menu)

Experts suggested an easy way of finding out whether the chickens are being fed correctly. This is by looking at the floor of the pen to find out whether there are too many or too little feathers scattered around, or looking at the chickens to see whether some of them are already bald due to pecking by the other chickens. The underlying principle is, that the chickens will eat their feathers to get the protein they need. The chickens feathers and their fellow chicken's skins are good sources of protein. Tips showing when chickens are supplied with more protein are: when the chickens are bald, when chickens are suffering from wounds inflicted by other chickens that peck on them and when less feathers are

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scattered around. These techniques could easily be adapted to large scale commercial operations where collection of accurate weight and conversion data would not be possible.Source: Greenfields, July 1980Keywords: Livestock technology, Chickens

HERBAL PLANTS FOR CHICKEN WORMS (back to farming menu)

Chickens maybe infested with roundworms which are indicated by slow growing process. Even the layers can also be infested by roundworms. It was found by researchers that papaya sap can be given as a drink but it was difficult for poultry raisers to give each chicken when there are so many. Researchers from UPLB tried using finely chopped papaya leaves combined with the feeds for 3 days. Results showed that the worm infestation were controlled and destroyed. Also, powdered tobacco leaves which were dried under the sun may also be used. Powdered tobacco leaves (2 parts) mixed with 12 parts feed mash and sodium sulfate is a salt solution for discharging chicken roundworms when given for 3 days.Source: Technology (PCARRD) Vol. IX, No. 3, 1987Keywords: Poultry & Livestock, Feeds, Herbal plants

DUCK BREEDING OPERATION(back to farming menu)

For efficient and productive duck breeding operation, consider the following tips recommended by experts from the Philippine Council for Agriculture and Resources Research in Los Baños, Laguna.Procedure:

1. Maintain the proper ratio of male to female ducks in a breeding shed or kamalig. Put in one drake for every five to 10 female ducks. Keep extra drakes in a separate shed in case some male breeders die of diseases or become unproductive.

2. The drakes can be distinguished from the females by their voice and appearance. Females `quack' while drakes provide a hissing sound. Drakes have curly tail features.

3. If possible, the drakes should be one month older than the female ducks. This is to ensure that the males are ready for mating during the breeding season.

4. Choose drakes and females alike with well-developed bodies and good conformation. They should be healthy, have a good set of feathers and with keen, alert eyes. Do not select those that are obviously sickly and thin.

Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal March 1981Keywords: Poultry & Livestock technology, Duck breeding

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BOOK I

Herbal Medicine

SampalokYerba Buena (Marsh Mint, Pepper Mint)LagundiTsaang GubatPapayaSambong (Blumea Camphor)Dried GingerCough Candy Using Local Plant ExtractsHarvest Medicinal Plants ProperlyHoney has Medicinal Uses

SAMPALOK

For Colds1. Boil the chopped leaves in 2 glasses of water for 15 minutes, or until the water is

reduced to half its volume. Allow to cool and strain.2. Divide the decoction into 3 parts and drink 1 part every after each meal.

The following measurements should guide you:

Condition of LeavesAge of Patient

adult7 - 12 years2 - 6 years

Dried Leaves(crushed)8 tbsp.4 tbsp.2 tbsp

Fresh Leaves(chopped)10 tbsp.5 tbsp. 2 1/2 tbsp

For wounds and itchiness:1. Boil one to two handfuls of the chopped plant material in a pot of water for 15

minutes.2. Let cool and strain.3. Use the decoction twice a day for washing the wound or itchy portion.Source: Mga Halamang Gamot, No. 4, Medicinal plants, Sampalok

YERBA BUENA (MARSH MINT, PEPPER MINT)

The Yerba Buena plant is a creeping herb that rises to only 20 cm. (or 8 in.) from the ground. Its stems are fleshy or non-woody, and the leaves are coarse. This plant is also strongly aromatic. There is another creeping plant that is also called Yerba Buena. Known scientifically as Mentha arvensis L. and also commonly known as Poleo or Poliyo in some places, this non-medicinal Yerba Buena has narrower leaves and bears lilac flowers, while the medicinal Yerba Buena does not flower in the Philippines. Yerba Buena is indicated or used primarily as pain reliever. The medical term for pain reliever is analgesic. As analgesic, it is effective for headaches, toothache, and pains caused by arthritis. But Yerba Buena has other medicinal uses too, called its secondary indications. It is also used for gaseous distention and as mouthwash. Yerba Buena is best propagated using terminal stem cuttings. Cut the top end of mature stems consisting of three to four parts of leaves, maintaining a length of 10 to 15 cms. (4 to 6 in.), and plant them in containers or directly in plots. They will grow roots in a week's time. The cuttings, if planted in containers, may be transplanted to plots two weeks after planting. It may also be planted near or between tall plants as it can tolerate partial shading. But avoid using chemical pesticides because they might leave poison on the plants. The procedure for using Yerba Buena as pain reliever or analgesic is the same whether it's for headache, toothache, or arthritis. Preparing the decoction: The amount of leaves you should use differs depending on whether the leaves are dried or fresh and on how old the patient is.

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Fresh leaves are washed first and then chopped coarsely, while air-dried leaves are crushed.Age of Patient

Adult7-12 years

Condition of LeavesDried (crushed)6 tbsp.3 tbsp

Fresh (chopped)4 tbsp.2 tbsp

After you have identified how much leaves to use, boil the leaves in 2 glasses of water for at least 15 minutes. This boiled mixture is called "decoction." Divide the decoction into two parts and take one part every three hours. These are important rules to follow when boiling the leaves in water. Observe strictly the following:

Use only enameled container or claypot ("palayok"), never an aluminum pot. A standard glass or cup should contain 240 ml. or 8 fluid ounces of water. This

measurement is the same as the content of a bottle of regular Pepsi or Coke. Mix leaves in water before placing on fire. As soon as the mixture boils, uncover the pot and let boil continuously for 15 minutes.

Remember that the mixture should boil uncovered. Strain and let cool. You now have what is called a "decoction." For headache, toothache, or arthritis take one-half (1/2) glass (standard glass or cup)

of decoction every three hours, as needed.When applied as fresh leaves: If the pain caused by headache, toothache, or arthritis is moderate and localized you may choose to just apply fresh Yerba Buena leaves on the affected part. Fresh leaves are heated, then pounded and applied on affected part.When used as mouthwash: Aside from being medicinal, Yerba Buena is also a mouthwash. It is prepared as follows: Soak tablespoonfuls of chopped fresh leaves in a glass of water for 30 minutes. Strain and use as mouthwash.Harvesting and Storing Leaves:It is best to harvest only the mature and healthy leaves. Make sure, though, that the plant is left with enough leaves to survive. If you wish, you may harvest excess leaves and air-dry them for storing. Air-drying takes place about four days on warm weather or about two weeks during the rainy season. Leaves are sufficiently dry if they crumble when crushed with the fingers. Dried leaves should be sealed in plastic bag or kept in covered tinted glass jar. Keep leaves in a cool, dry place and away from direct sunlight to extend their storage life.Source: Phil. Council for Health Research and Development (DOST)Keywords: Medicinal plants, Yerba buena

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LAGUNDILuzon: Dabtan, Dangla, Kamalaan, Limo-limo, Lingei, Lingo-lingoVisayas: Lagundin, TugasMindanao: Kalipapa-madam, Limpapa, Magupay, Molrei-oso, Sugarai

Lagundi is a shrub that grows to as tall as 5 meters. A shrub is described as somewhere between an herb and a tree. A shrub is a low, woody plant with several stems while a tree is a tall, woody plant with only one stem called "trunk." A leaf of Lagundi is composed of 5 leaflets arranged like fingers in a hand. Lagundi is indicated or used primarily for the following:

1. To stop coughing, relieve asthma, and facilitate the discharge of phlegm.2. To lower fever due too colds or flu.

Preparing the Lagundi Mixture (Decoction)

For cough, asthma, and fever, the steps in preparing Lagundi leaves as medication are the same.

Measurements: However, the amount of leaves you should use differs depending on whether the leaves are dried or fresh and on how old the patient is. Fresh leaves are washed first and then chopped coarse, while air-dried leaves are crushed. The following measurements should guide you:Age of Patient

Adult7-12 years2-6 years

Condition of LeavesFresh (chopped)6 tbsp.3 tbsp.11/2 tbsp.

Dried (crushed)4 tbsp.2 tbsp.1 tbsp.

After you have identified how much leaves to use, boil the leaves in 2 glasses of water for at least 15 minutes. This boiled mixture is called "decoction."Boiling the Mixture: There are important rules to follow when boiling the leaves in water. Observe strictly the following:

1. Use only enamelled container or claypot ("palayok"), never an aluminum pot.2. A standard glass or cup should contain 240 ml. or 8 fluid ounces of water. This

measurement is the same as the content of a bottle of regular size Pepsi or Coke.3. Mix leaves in water before placing on fire.4. As soon as the mixture boils, uncover the pot and let boil continuously for 15 minutes.

Remember that the mixture should boil uncovered.5. Strain and let cool. You now have what is called a "decoction."

Storing the Decoction: For convenience, you may prepare enough decoction that you can use for several days. Simply adjust the amount of leaves to use according to the amount of water you will boil. While kept in thermo pot ("termos") the decoction will last for three days without losing its efficacy. When kept in refrigerator the decoction will last up to four days without losing its efficacy. Keep in mind, however, that whether kept in thermo pot or refrigerated, the decoction must not be taken anymore when its color has changed or when it has grown molds or fungus.

Primary Medicinal Uses of Lagundi, Dosage and Ailments: The amount of decoction to drink and how often depends on a person's ailment, as described. The dosage is the same for children and adults.

Cough: For cough, take one-half (1/2) glass of decoction three times a day (preferably at 6:00 a.m., 2:00 p.m., and 10:00 p.m.; or any other 8-hours interval most convenient to your schedules.) Also, drink at least 8 glasses of water a day to further help loosen

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phlegm. If you cough does not improve in three days, consult a physician. You should also consult a physician when you observe any of the following:

1. When your coughing and breathing become difficult.2. When your phlegm smells bad, or has blood, or is yellowish or greenish in color.3. When the hoarseness of your voice persists for more than two weeks.

Asthma: For asthma, take one-third (1/3) glass of decoction three times a day (preferably at 6:00 a.m., 2:00 p.m. and 10:00 p.m.; or any other 8-hours interval most convenient to your schedules). If your asthma does not improve after one dose of the decoction or when the attack is severe, consult a physician.

When treating asthma, remember that it is sometimes an allergic reaction to certain materials or food items, or even environmental conditions. It may also be caused by fatigue and worrying. In these cases, it is wisest for you to identify those that trigger the asthma attack so you can avoid or protect yourself against them.

Fever Due To Flu or Colds For fever take one-half (1/2) glass of decoction every three hours, as needed.

Headache: To relieve headache, heat enough fresh leaves over a ire until slightly wilted. Then crush the leaves and apply on forehead and temples. Bandage the leaves in place. Change the dressing every four hours when needed. If you have headache, it is best for you to rest in a quiet, cool, and dimly-lighted room. A cold pack or massage on the forehead and nape also soothes the pain. If the headache accompanies fever or colds, appropriate therapy for the fever or colds must be taken concurrently. In case the headache is not relieved after one day of treatment, it is a must that you see a physician.

Toothache: For toothache, take one-half (1/2) glass of decoction every three hours. You are advised though to see your dentist whether the toothache is relieved or not.As Wound Wash: As wash for wounds and other minor skin irritations, boil 2 handfuls of fresh leaves in enough water. Strain the boiled mixture and let cool. Use this to wash the wound or affected part once in the morning and once before bedtime. Then cover the wound with gauze or thin cloth, if needed, as protection from dirt and flies. When washing wound, remove pus and dead tissues that have formed. See a physician if the wound does not improve within one week, or when the wound has caused fever, when you lymph nodes have become swollen and painful, or when too much pus has formed.

As Bath: As bath for mother who just gave birth and for sick people, boil 4 handfuls or more of fresh. Lagundi leaves in sufficient amount of water for five minutes. Strain and add plain water to bring it to a comfortable warmness.

How To Plant Lagundi: Lagundi is easily propagated using cuttings. It is best to use a mature leafless stem (hardwood) as cutting. A stem to be cut must be 20 cms. (8 inches) long and should include at least 3 nodes. The nodes are where the new leaves will grow. To plant the cutting, insert the lower one-third (1/3) of the stem cutting (with one node included) into the soil. Then water the soil thoroughly after planting. Keep the new plant under shade. In about 4 weeks, the new plant must have grown its own roots. In two more weeks, the cutting is ready to be transplanted to a bigger pot or garden.

Caring for the Plant: You will have to water the plant every day. Remove weeds and apply fertilizer or compost if you want. You must remove branches and leaves attacked by pests or diseases so they do not spread to the whole plant. Avoid using chemical pesticides because they might leave poison in the plant itself. Remember that you planted Lagundi for its medical uses, and that you intend to take boiled mixture of Lagundi leaves later on.

Harvesting and Storing Leaves: It is best to harvest only the mature and healthy leaves. Make sure, though, that the plant is left with enough leaves to survive. The first harvest

44

of leaves is best done seven to eight months after transplanting and as a way of pruning the grown plant. Leaves can be harvested every four months thereafter for air-drying or storing. Or if you have only a few potted plants, you may choose to harvest leaves only as you need them. Air-drying takes about for days on warm weather or about two weeks during the rainy season. Leaves are sufficiently dry if they crumble when crushed with the fingers. Dried leaves should be sealed in plastic bag or kept in covered tinted glass jar. Keep leaves in cool, dry place and away from direct sunlight to extend their storage life.

Source: Phil. Council for Health Research and Development (DOST)Keywords: Medicinal plants, Lagundi

TSAANG GUBAT

Luzon: Kalabong, Kalimumog, Katdalugod, Maragued, Mara-mara, Taglokot, Talibunog,Tst, Tsaang-gubat, Tsa-tsa

Visayas: Alibungog, SementeMindanao: Alangitngit, Alingitngit, Buyo-buyo

Tsaang-gubat is a low, woody plant with several stems. It is grown as ornamental or bonsai because of its attractive appearance. Its leaves are small and have dark, green and shiny upper surface. Tsaang-gubat is indicated or used primarily for diarrhea. But it is also advised for stomachache and colic.

Diarrhea: A person has diarrhea or LBM (Loose Bowel Movement) when his stool is soft to watery and when he has to move his bowels more often than two times in one day. To treat diarrhea using Tsaang-gubat, follow these steps:

1. Determine the amount of Tsaang-gubat leaves to use. The amount of leaves to use varies according to the age of patient and the condition of leaves, as follows:

Age of Patient

Adult7-12 years2-6 years

Condition of LeavesFresh (chopped)12 tbsp.6 tbsp.3 tbsp.

Dried (crushed)10 tbsp.5 tbsp.2 1/2 tbsp.

2. Boil correct amount of leaves in 2 glasses of water for 15 minutes.3. Let cool, then strain and divide into 4 parts.4. Take 1 part every two hours (until stool becomes solid).

Boiling the Mixture: There are important rules to follow when boiling the leaves in water. Observe strictly the following:

Use only enameled container or claypot ("palayok"), never an aluminum pot. A standard glass or cup should contain 240 ml. or 8 fluid ounces of water. This

measurement is the same as the content of a bottle or regular size Pepsi or Coke. Mix leaves in water before placing on fire. As soon as the mixture boils uncover the pot and let boil continuously for 15 minutes.

Remember that the mixture should boil uncovered. Strain and let cool. You now have what is called "decoction."

Storing the Decoction: For convenience, you may prepare enough decoction that you can use for several days. Simply adjust the amount of leaves to use according to the amount of water that you will boil. When kept in thermo pot ("termos"), the decoction will last

45

for three days without losing its efficacy. When kept in refrigerator, the decoction will last up to four days without losing its efficacy. Keep in mind, however, that whether kept in thermo pot or refrigerated the decoction must not be taken anymore when its color has changed or when it has grown molds or fungus.

Oral Rehydration Solution

To prevent dehydration due to diarrhea, a person should take a solution of water, sugar and salt, known as Oral Rehydration Solution or ORS. ORS can either be bought from the drugstore, obtained for your community health clinic or prepared at home. To prepare your own ORS, simply mix in a pitcher or jar 4 glasses of water, 2 tablespoons of sugar, and 3/4 (three-fourths) teaspoon of salt. These are the basic ingredients of an ORS. An adult is advised to drink at least three glasses of this solution every one hour or after every diarrheal discharge. Children should take in one and one-half (11/2) glasses. But a "more complete" ORS can be prepared by substituting some of the basic ingredients. If honey is available, use 2 tablespoons honey instead of sugar. Also, the three-fourth (3/4) teaspoon salt can be substituted with one-fourth (1/4) teaspoon baking soda plus one-fourth (1/4) teaspoon salt. In severe dehydration, a diarrheal patient is rehydrated intravenously with a solution, more popularly called dextrose or saline. Only a medical personnel is allowed to administer this procedure.

Stomachache and Colic: To relieve stomachache and colic caused by indigestion, excessive air in the stomach or vomitting, Tsaang-gubat is prepared as follows:

1. Determine the amount of Tsaang-gubat leaves to use, which varies according to the age of patient and the condition of leaves, as follows:

Age of Patient

Adult7-12 years

Condition of LeavesDried(crushed)2 tbsp.1 tbsp

Fresh(chopped)3 tbsp.1 1/2 tbsp.

2. Boil correct amount of leaves in 1 glass of water for 15 minutes.3. Strain and drink when lukewarm. If the pain is not relieved within one hour after

taking Tsaang-gubat, prepare another glassful following the same steps above. If the pain is still not relieved, then see a physician. The cause of the stomachache may be something else.

How to Plant Tsaang-Gubat: Tsaang-gubat is propagated using either seeds or basal cuttings. Although using basal cuttings cannot assure that all cutting will survive, it is still preferred over the use of seeds. Its because seeds take very long to germinate, and germinated seeds need another long time to grow. For a basal cutting only the lower portion of a stem, which is also its harder part is used. For Tsaang-gubat, a basal cutting should be about 20 cm. (8 in.) long and must include at least three nodes. The nodes are where the new leaves will grow or come out. Plant basal cuttings by inserting the lower one-third (1/3) of the stem, at least one node into the soil, in separate containers or pots. Water immediately after and place under shade. The cuttings will root six to eight weeks from planting. They may be transplanted to plots or retained in larger pots. Avoid using chemical pesticides because they might leave poison on the plants. It is best to harvest only the mature and healthy leaves. If you wish, you may harvest excess leaves and air-dry them for storing. Air-drying takes about four days on warm weather or about two weeks during the rainy season. Leaves are sufficiently dry if they crumble when crushed with the fingers. Dried leaves should be sealed in plastic bag or kept in covered tinted glass jar. Keep leaves in a cool, dry place and away from direct sunlight to extend their storage life.Source: Phil. Council for Health Research and Development (DOST)

Keywords: Medicinal plants, Tsaang gubat

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PAPAYA

One of the most common fruit trees, papaya can be found in tropical and sub-tropical countries and usually grows in lowlands. A typically small tree, it can grow from 3 to 6 meters high. Its fleshy fruit comes from the female flowers and can grow from 5 to 30 cm. big. It is yellow or yellowish-orange when mature, with black seeds embedded in the pulp. The parts used as fruits, leaves and latex of trunk and fruit.

For constipation: Get the ripe fruit of the tree. Eat the fruit liberally. Yellowing of the skin, especially the palms and soles may occur but this is harmless.

For foul wounds: Get the latex of the trunk of the fruit. Apply this to the wound and let it say for 15 minutes before washing it off. Do this once a day.

For rheumatism: From the bruised papaya leaves, prepare a heated mass (poultice). Apply the poultice in areas where rheumatism occurs.

Source: Mga Halamang Gamot, No. 4

Keywords: Medicinal plants, Papaya

SAMBONG (Blumea Camphor) Luzon: Kaliban, Sob-sob, SubusubVisayas: Alibhon, Alibum, Alimhon, Alimon, Ayoban, Bukadkad, Dalapot, Gabuuen, Gintin-gintin, Gitin-gitin, Hamlibon, Hanalibon, Kalibura, Kambihon, Lakadbulan, Lakdanbulang, Lalakdan, TakamainMindanao: Gaboh, Labulan, Libon, Pahid, Sambun

Sambong is a woody herb that grows to as much as 11/2 to 3 meters tall. It is an erect plant with half-woody stems, and its leaves are hairy with coarse underside. It grows almost everywhere in the Philippines except in elevated places. Sambong is indicated or used primarily as a diuretic. As a diuretic, sambong is advised for persons with edema (manas), high blood pressure and kidney trouble. It has other medicinal uses too, more properly called its secondary indications. These are pain reliever for headache and gaseous distention. A person with edema, whether the edema is caused by heart or kidney trouble, is given a diuretic so he can discharge (urinate) the excess salts and water that have accumulated in his . A person has high blood pressure when his blood pressure (BP) reading is more than 140/90 mm. Hg. Also, he has high blood pressure when his blood pressure (BP) reading increases by at least 10 mm. Hg. over the previous reading, and the increase is accompanied by dizziness, headache, nape pain, easy fatigue, or chest pain.

How to prepare sambong: To prepare a day's dosage of sambong as a diuretic, boil 4 tablespoons of crushed dried leaves in 2 glasses of water for at least 15 minutes. When done, strain and divide the boiled mixture into three parts. Drink one part three times a day. Fresh sambong leaves may also be used, but you will need 6 tablespoons of chopped leaves instead of just 4. The procedure for preparing fresh leaves mixture is the same as that for dried leaves.

Boiling the mixture: There are important rules to follow when boiling the leaves in water. Observe strictly the following:

Use only enamelled container or claypot ("palayok"0, never an aluminum pot. A standard glass or cup should contain 240 ml. or 8 fluid ounces of water. This measurement is the same as the content of a bottle of regular size Pepsi or Coke.

Mix leaves in water before placing on fire. As soon as the mixture boils, uncover the pot and let boil continuously for 15 minutes.

Remember that the mixture should not boil uncovered.

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Strain and let cool. You now have what is called a "decoction."For convenience, enough decoction to be used for several days may be prepared by simply adjusting the amount of leaves to use according to the amount of water to be boiled. When kept in thermo pot ("termos") the decoction will last for three days without losing its efficacy. When kept in refrigerator, the decoction will last up to four days without losing its efficacy.

Other Medicinal Uses of SambongFor headache: To use sambong for headache, simply heat enough fresh leaves over a fire until slightly wilted. Then pound the leaves a little and place on the forehead and temples. A cloth bandage may also be used to keep the leaves in place. Change the dressing every four hours when needed.

For gaseous distention: Gaseous distention is caused by excessive air in the stomach. It is produced by swallowing air, indigestion or eating too much gas-forming foods like rootcrops and some fruits. For these simple cases of gaseous distention, boil 1 tablespoon of crushed dried (or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh) leaves of sambong in 1 glass of water for 15 minutes. Strain and drink and boiled mixture while lukewarm. For children, follow the same steps but use only 1/2 tablespoon leaves.

How to plant sambong: Sambong is best propagated using plantlets. Plantlets are the "baby plants" that grow around the base of the mother plant. A plantlet with at least three leaves can be separated carefully from the mother plant and planted right away in a pot or plastic bag. A plantlet must be planted with its roots.

Harvesting and storing: It is best to harvest only the mature and healthy leaves. Make sure though that the plant is left with enough leaves to survive. If you wish, you may harvest excess leaves and air-dry them for storing. Air-drying takes about four days on warm weather or about two weeks during the rainy season. Leaves are sufficiently dry if they crumble when crusted with the fingers. Dried leaves should be sealed in plastic bag or kept in covered tinted glass jar. Keep leaves in cool, dry place and away from direct sunlight to extend their storage life.

Source: Phil. Council for Health Research and Development (DOST)

Keywords: Medicinal plants, Sambong

DRIED GINGER

Materials:

GingerSodium metabisulfite

Utensils:

Plastic basinsKnivesLadlePlastic bagsColander

Procedure:

Sliced Ginger

1. Wash fresh whole ginger2. Peel by scraping off the skin with the blunt side of a knife.

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3. Slice into 1/3 cm. thickness.4. Soak in 2% sodium metabisulfite solution (11/2 tbsp./liter of water) for 5-10 minutes.5. Drain liquid. Spread on wire trays lined with nylon mesh or sinamay.6. Dry under the sun or in any suitable dryer such as the solar dryer until slices are crisp.7. Pack in plastic bags or any insect-proof container.

Whole Ginger

1. Wash fresh whole finger. Cut into convenient sizes (about 2-3 cm. long).2. Scrape off the skin with the blunt side of a knife.3. Soak in 2% sodium metabisulfite solution (1 week or longer) in a covered container.4. Drain and spread on wire or bamboo trays.5. Dry in any suitable dryer like a solar dryer or under the sun.6. Pack in plastic bags or any insect-proof container.

Source: Technical Information and Documentation Division, ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Medicinal plants, Ginger

COUGH CANDY USING LOCAL PLANT EXTRACTS

Researchers of ITDI have formulated a cough candy using oils of ginger (Zinigiber officinale Rosc.) and "kalamansi" (Citrus microcarpa Bunge) and extracts from tamarind (Tamarindus indica Linn.) and "kalamansi". The use of local plant products to substitute for the imported raw materials/ingredients in the manufacture of pharmaceuticals may help contribute to the reduction of prices of drugs which have become prohibitive.

Materials:SugarGlucoseNH4ClColorMentholPowderedWaterKalamansi juiceTamarind nectarGinger oilKalamansi oilMagnesia powder

80 g. 90 g. 1 g. 0.05 g. 0.10 g. 2.5 g. 25 ml. 10 ml. 10 ml. 0.15 ml. 0.15 ml. 2.5 g.

Procedure:

1. Place sugar, glucose, water, kalamansi juice, tamarind nectar and food color in a pan on a gas stove and stir until dissolved. Allow the mixture to steam and cover.

2. Boil up to 140 C or until the desired hardness is reached. Then add NH4Cl, mix and fold in menthol crystals and the essential oils (kalamansi and ginger).

3. Pour into previously greased molder. Cool and remove from the molder and blend with a mixture of powdered sugar and magnesia powder.

4. Put on a sieve and pack as desired. The batch will yield approx. 35-45 candies.

Source: Phil. Technology Journal Vol. XIII, No. 1, Jan-Mar. 1988

Keywords: Medicinal plants, Plant extracts

HARVEST MEDICINAL PLANTS PROPERLY

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According to a plant researcher at the University of the Philippines at Los Baños, Laguna, to be more effective and to protect their "healing powers," medicinal plants should be harvested at the right time, then dried and stored properly. Observe the following criteria in harvesting medicinal plant parts:

1. Collect flowers just before or shortly after opening or before they fully open.2. Collect barks and wood during the dry season or before new leaves begin to grow.3. Collect leaves when the plant is flowering or before the fruit matures. The leaves

should not have signs of diseases or aging. Take note of this criterion especially when harvesting leaves of Lagundi (or Vitex negundo L.) which are reported good for fever.

4. Collect roots and underground parts during the dry season just when the aerial parts die or before new shoots start to develop from tubers or bulbs. This holds true when harvesting ginger or luya which is reportedly good for rheumatism.

5. Collect fruits when fully grown but unripe or when fully ripe as in Mangosteen or when fruits turn golden yellow as in Niyog-niyogan (Quisqualis indica L.).

6. Collect seeds when fully grown but unripe. In certain fruits, the seeds should be extracted prior to splitting. Drying also affects the plant part's medicinal properties. In most cases, the best drying temperature for leaves and flowers is 40 C while that for barks, roots and other woody parts, 65 C.

Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal June 1982Keywords: Agriculture, Harvesting, Storage

HONEY HAS MEDICINAL USES

Research shows that honey has more nutrients than milk and egg. It contains 40.5% fructose, 34.0% glucose, 17.7% water, 1.9% sucrose, 1.5% dextrin and gums, 1.2% ash and traces of lecithin. According to a researcher of the Central Luzon State University Bee Research Project in Muñoz, Nueva Ecija, honey can cure the following:

1. Cataract, colds, cough, sore throat, sinusitis, anemia, arthritis, rheumatism and even athlete's foot and pimples. Taking in pure honey regularly may also minimize colds, cough, sore throat and sinusitis. Chewing and finally swallowing honey soothes the throat and nostrils.

2. Honey is also good for anemic persons or for those who have low blood pressure. It hastens the production of red blood cells.

3. Pure honey contains lecithin which dilutes or dissolves the cholesterol in the heart's blood vessels. People who use to eat fatty foods may likely suffer from heart disorders mainly due to cholesterol accumulating in the heart's blood vessels. When cholesterol gets thicker, supply of blood to and from the heart becomes limited, resulting in heart attack.

4. Honey can also be used as a facial cleansing cream. It prevents pimples. It can also cure athlete's foot (ringworm of the feet), a contagious disease caused by fungus. Before going to bed, wash your feet with soap and lukewarm water. Let your foot dry and then apply honey over the infected portion and wrap with bandage. The following morning, remove the bandage and wash your feet clean. Do this every night until your feet heals.

Pureness of honey: Pure honey contains 7.7 percent moisture. This can be determined by using a thermometer. Another simple method is to use an onion skin coupon bond. Drop a little amount of honey on the paper. If it tears the paper, then the honey contains more than enough water and is therefore adulterated. If not, it is pure honey. Also, soak the head of a match stick in honey for five minutes. Thereafter, strike the match. If it sparks, the honey is pure.

Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal September 1980

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Keywords: Food technology, Honey

51

BOOK I

Small Industries

Cementless Soil BlocksLime-Clay-Sand BlocksHollow Blocks From Rice HullsHollow Blocks From Waste MaterialsCarabao / Cow Dung FlooringWood Wool Cement BoardClay Brick MakingEasy Way To Prepare Charcoal BriquettesFuel from Carabao Dung And Rice HullsFuel From Old NewspapersFuel From Corn CobsSoap Making By Cold ProcessCandle Wax MakingFloor Wax MakingRecycle Rice Straw Into Handmade Paper

CEMENTLESS SOIL BLOCKS

In view of the rising cost of cement, the Forest Products Research and Development Institute made an attempt to form building blocks out of soil and water alone or in combination with one or two other agri-forestry waste materials, such as rice hull, coconut coir dust and wood ash. Lime is used as a binder. Lime is found in large quantities in Rizal, Negros Occidental and Davao Oriental. Coconut coir and other materials are available almost nationwide.

Materials:

LimeCoconut coirRice hullSoilSandWood ashRice hull ash

Equipment:

1/4 inch mesh screenmoldshovel

Procedure:

1. Pulverize the soil and remove larger pieces with the use of a 1/4 inch wire mesh screen.

2. Mix together soil and any one or two of the agri-forestry wastes. Suggested combinations (in parts by volume) are:

a. 3 soil + 1 coconut coir b. 3 soil + 1 rice hull c. 5 soil + 1 lime d. 5 soil + 1/2 lime + 1/2 rice hull ash e. 5 soil + 1/2 lime + 1/2 wood ash f. 4 soil + 1 rice hull + 1 lime

g. 21/2 soil + 21/2 sand + 1/2 lime + 1/2 wood ash

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3. Form a hill out of the dry mixture (or of soil alone if a pure soil block is to be made) with a crater on top and add water.

4. Pour water slowly and with a shovel, mix the materials until a paste is formed. The paste should neither be too dry nor too wet so that during the molding process. The ingredients are wet enough to stay packed but not too wet to produce slump when the product is removed from the mold. The right mixture can be learned easily by experience.

5. Fill the mold with the mixture. Tamp very well and level off. Apply pressure using a manually-operated molding machine or a similar device.

6. Dry the block in the shade for a few days and then sun dry for another few days.

Source: Forest Products Research and Development , Institute (DOST) College LagunaKeywords: Building technology, Blocks

LIME-CLAY-SAND BLOCKS

With the materials that are available all over the country, Industrial Technology and Development Institute fabricated blocks which need no firing. The block has a square face and grooved sides which allow adequate surface for bonding. It measures 8"x8"x6". The provinces of La Union, Bulacan, Batangas, Quezon, Bohol and Negros Occidental have reserves of all the 4 non-metallic ores herein used. Clay and limestone may be found in almost all the regions while sufficient amount of sand and gravel occur in Regions III, IV, VI and X.

Materials:

ClayLimeSandGravelWater

Equipment:

PickaxShovelWire mesh screenWooden measuring box

Procedure:

1. Crush the lumps of clay into smaller pieces with a pickaxe. With the use of a wire mesh screen, remove impurities, such as stones, roots, twigs, etc.

2. Sift the lime and the sand separately to remove the bigger particles.3. Mix thoroughly five (5) boxes of clay, two (2) of lime and two (2) of sand.4. Add water slowly until the right consistency is reached. The mixture should neither be

too wet nor too dry so that when molded, the block will maintain its shape.5. Press the mixture into a wooden mold until all spaces are filled up and scrape off the

excess.6. Remove the mold and allow the formed block to stand in the shade for 3 days. Then

sun-dry for another 3 days.

Source: Ceramics Research Division ITDI (DOST)Keywords: Building technology, Blocks

HOLLOW BLOCKS FROM RICE HULLS

Procedure:

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1. Carbonize the rice hulls.2. Pulverize the ash.3. Mix the following:60 parts cement40 parts carbonized ashwater4. Pour the mixture into wooden molds5. Allow to dry.

Source: Forest Products Research and Development ÿÿInstÿÿute (DOST) Los Bÿÿwi, Laguna.

Keywords: Construction indusÿÿy,. Aplow blocks, Rice hulls

HOLLOW BLOCKS FROM WASTE MATERIALS

A new type of hollow blocks can be fabricated out of wood wastes, agricultural wastes and soil mixed with minimum amount of cement. As far as strength and durability are concerned, results of test showed that this type of blocks is comparable to some of the commercial or traditional concrete hollow blocks. However, they are considered as strictly non-loading bearing.

Materials:

1 part cement3 parts sawdust, ordinary soil, rice hulls, abaca waste, sugarcane bagasse, coconut

coir dust and coconut trunk.

Procedure:

1. Pulverized soil is passed through a wire screen, 1/4 inch wire mesh to separate larger pieces. A mixture of 1 part cement to 3 parts agri-waste is formulated.

2. Mix all materials together, add water and pour into molds.3. Let stand for several hours until dry.4. After drying, remove from molds and let stand along one side for 10 days while

sprinkling water at regular intervals to avoid cracking.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews December 1988

Keywords: Construction industry, Hollow blocks, Agricultural wastes

CARABAO/COW DUNGFLOORING

Carabao or cow dung flooring is an age-old technology applied in the rural areas. "Bastiya," as it is locally known, took a back seat to cement during the peak of the latter's popularity but is currently making a quiet comeback due to the prohibitive cost of cement. The procedure for making the dung mixture herein presented is the one followed in and around the environs of Antipolo (Rizal) where the ground leaves of "puso-puso" (litsea glutinosa) are used as a binder. It is known that in Central Luzon, "dayami" or dried rice stalks are added as filler material. The distinct advantage of carabao or cow dung flooring over simple packed earth is that the former does not give the rise to dust.Materials:

Cow/carabao dung (one day old)WaterLeaves of Litsea glutinosa

Local names:Puso-puso (Tagalog)Balanganan (Mindoro)

Mapipi (Ticao Island)Olos-olos (Pangasinan)

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Butus (Bataan)Dalauen (Isabela)Dunngul (Cagayan)Lauat (Masbate)Lokbus (Amburayan)Lomangog (Guimaras Is.)Malakakao (Bataan)Marang (Polillo)

Parasablut (Zambales)Sablot ( La Union, Cagayan, Ilocos Sur, Isabela)Siblot (Cagayan)Tagu-tugan (Camarines)Tayakpok (Agusan)Tubjus (Batanes Is.)

Equipment:

Mortar and pestleOrdinary canSoft broom or brush

Procedure:

1. Preparation of Foundation

Wood/bamboo/stone frames are used to enclose the entire area to be covered by the flooring. Clay/garden soil are used as the foundation, usually 3" thick. After levelling, ashes are applied to make the foundation smooth.

2. Preparation of Carabao dung Mixture

Seven (7) parts of carabao dung is mixed with 2 parts water, or an amount which depends on the desired density/velocity of the mixture. Three (3) parts grounded/pounded leaves of "puso-puso" is mixed with the carabao dung resulting in a sticky mixture. Mixing is done manually.

3. Application of the Mixture

A thin first layer of the mixture is applied in one direction, by the use of a soft broom orbrush. After drying, the second layer is applied. Water is added after each application since the mixture easily dries up. The procedure is repeated until the desired flooring thickness is reached. Usually, the drying of the floor takes only one day.

Source: DOST, Mr. Ponciano Caricativo, Bo. San Jose, Antipolo, Rizal

Keywords: Building industry, Flooring

55

WOOD WOOL CEMENT BOARD

Wood wool cement is a cheap and durable panel product for housing produced from mixed indigenous wood species.

Materials:

Giant ipil-ipilSantolMangoLauanCement (Portland or Fortune)Calcium chloride (technical grade)

Procedure:

1. Curing and debarking

Mixed wood species in log form or slabs, 12-40 cm. in diameter were cut into 40 cm. log billet size and then debarked with a sharp bolo or ax.

2. Shredding

Debarked billets were converted into excelsior of 4 mm. wide and 0.4 mm. thick through the shredder or wood wool-making machine. The shredding of the four wood species resulted in about 90% recovery.

3. Soaking

The excelsior was immediately soaked in water continuously for two days. Water was replaced each day to leach sugar and soluble extractives of the wood.

4. Air-drying

The excelsior was spread out on a cement floor for air-drying. The drying of the soaked excelsior took about one or two days depending on the thickness of the spread.

5. Mixing

The required excelsior, cement and water, and accelerator were weighed properly and mixed thoroughly in a drum mixer for two to three minutes.

6. Mat-forming

After mixing thoroughly, the materials were spread evenly on the 12mm. thick marine plywood caul plates, laid with plastic and formed by placing one caul plate over the other. For 12, 30, and 50 mm. thick boards, 10 and 7 mats were formed per batch of pressing, respectively.

7. Cold pressing and clamping

The mats in a fabricated wood wool were pressed by three hydraulic jacks of 10-ton capacity. Each jack exerted a pressure of about 2 kg./sq. cm. Yakal wood block thickness stoppers were used corresponding to the actual board thickness in between the plywood plates. After pressing to the desired thickness, the whole stack of plates was clamped with bolts.

8. Curing and conditioning

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After clamping for at least 24 hours, the wood wool cement boards were piled horizontally with two thickers in between for conditioning for three to four weeks.

Source: "For Low-cost Housing, try Wood wool cement boards" by Arturo A. Pablo, PCARRD Monitor, Vol. 17, No. 8, Aug. 1989

Keywords: Building industry, Wood wool cement boards

CLAY BRICK MAKING

In Tala, Caloocan City, where there are vast deposits of clay, the Tala Foundation Inc. hasestablished the Cardinal Ceramics Plant. The brickmaking plant is a socio-economic project of the Foundation aimed at providing employment and additional income while at the same time utilizing the mineral deposits in the vicinity.

Materials:

ClaySandWater

Equipment:

spades, hoes and picks14 mesh screenwooden scraper10" x 5" x 21/2" wooden moldgas kiln

Procedure:

1. Mine the raw clay with the use of spades, hoes and picks.2. Remove stones and other impurities using a 14 mesh screen.3. Add water and sand in the proportion of 25% water and 10% sand, by weight.4. Place the mold on the drying platform. Put the clay mixture in the mold and manually

wedge the clay. Scrape off the excess clay.5. Remove the mold and allow the newly made brick (or green brick) to dry at room

temperature for 3 to 4 weeks. Turn "green bricks" at regular intervals to prevent warping and cracking.

6. Pre-heat the gas kiln for 2 hours, setting it at 980 C. Stack the bricks in "tie-tricks" formation. Fire for 16 hours.

7. Let the bricks cool completely before using.

Source: Ceramics Research Division ITDI (DOST) Bicutan, Taguig, Metro ManilaKeywords: Building industry, Bricks

EASY WAY TO PREPARE CHARCOAL BRIQUETTES

Charcoal briquettes are charcoal dusts compactly massed by a binder of either cassava flour, corn or sweet potation starch. Briquettes burn out much longer and give off intense, steady heat. Charcoal briquettes are ideal for barbecues, bibingkas or any native delicacy that calls for charcoal. A handful of briquettes would cost less than a big lump of charcoal since they last longer, give off intense heat and turn out more stick of barbecue or pieces of bibingka.

Procedure:

57

1. Charcoal from which the dust must be produced must be well-charred to make briquettes smoke-free.

2. Use smokeless binder like cassava meal, camote and corn starch.3. Cook the starch into syrupy consistency, neither too thin nor too thick.4. Mix in a pail or in any available container the charcoal dust and the binder.5. Knead the mixture as you would the dough for your bread or your doughnut.6. Mould the mixture into desired shapes. Use the native sungkaan, or any improvised

moulder.7. Dry the briquettes under the sun. Better sill ovencook them in an improvised tapahan-

type dryer, using coconut shells or wood barks.

Keywords: Fuel technology, Charcoal briquettes

FUEL FROM CARABAO DUNG AND RICE HULLS

Cattle dung and rice hulls can be used as fuel for cooking purposes, especially in rural areas where firewood is getting scarce.

Procedure:

1. Mix in a pail or in any available basin or kerosene can one part rice hull to six parts fresh manure. Animal manure should be fresh and moist so it can bind the mixture when dry.

2. Mix the mixture thoroughly with the use of shovels.3. Press the mixture to remove the excess moisture.4. Pour the mixture into tall milk cans which serve as mold. Both ends of the can should

be opened to facilitate removal of the briquets.5. Remove the molds and dry the briquets to the sun for three to four days. At this stage,

the briquets have a moisture content of around eight to 12 percent.

Source: Phil. Farmer's Journal September 1980

Keywords: Fuel technology, Carabao dung, Rice hulls

FUEL FROM OLD NEWSPAPERS

Don't throw away old newspapers. During brownouts or when you run out of gas for cooking, fuel from old newspapers can be used.

Procedure:

1. Soak old newspapers in water (or inside pages of magazines) for about 2 hours.2. After soaking, tear into pieces, mash into balls about 2 inches in diameter.3. Squeeze out the water.4. Spread over a cement surface under the sun for drying.5. After drying is complete, pack in plastic bags so that moisture will not be absorbed.6. Use as fuel as substitute for wood or charcoal.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews February 1984Keywords: Fuel technology, Newspapers

FUEL FROM CORN COBS

Materials needed:

Corn cobsDrum, 200-lit. capacitySprinkler

58

Procedure:

1. Place the corn cobs inside the drum about 1/3 in height and burn until the smoke disappears.

2. Fill the drum additional corn cobs (about 2/3 in height) and burn again until smoke disappears.

3. When the smoke ceases, empty the drum.4. Sprinkle water into the burnt corn cobs.5. Spread the cobs for drying under the sun.6. Separate the charcoal from the ashes.7. Store.

Source: Ang Kilusan Nov. 1-15, 1982

Keywords: Fuel technology, Corn cobs

SOAP MAKING BY COLD PROCESS

White creamy laundry bar soap with the essence of citronella or other suitable essential oils.

Materials:

Coconut oil (primary)Caustic soda (35 Be) as saponifying agentSodium silicate as soap builderEssential oils as perfume

Equipment:

Cylindrical soap mixer, pedal type (16 liters)Moulder with cutter (71.5 cm. x 38 cm. x 3 cm.)Oil storage container, 20 kg. capacityPercolator, 1 gallon capacity

Procedure:

Five liters coconut oil is measured and transferred to a steel cylindrical soap mixer. A volume of 2.3 liters of caustic soda is slowly added to the oil with stirring for 20 minutes. 0.25 liters of sodium silicate and 0.02 liter essential oil are added and continuously mixed and stirred for 10 minutes. The homogenous viscous soap mixture is poured into the moulder and is made to stand for seventy-two (72) hours at room temperature to complete saponification. The soap is extruded from the mould and is divided into bars by passing through a wire cutter. Soap bars are packed in polyethylene bags then into boxes for storage.Source: Technology developed by: Industrial Technology Development Institute (DOST)Keywords: Chemical technology, Soap making, Coconut oil

CANDLE WAX MAKING

Materials:

Paraffin wax (China brand)Polyethylene wax (Japan brand)Thread (for candle wick)MoldTechnical dye (desired color)

59

Procedure:

1. To 500 g. paraffin wax, add 125 g. polyethylene wax and melt in low fire.2. If using mold of desired sizes, pour melted wax preparation into forming device and

allow to harden. To facilitate hardening bath the mold with water. Be sure that the thread is properly placed at the center of the mold.

3. If using the drip method, prepare the wick in advance by dripping it in a prepared melted materials and allow to harden.

4. Place melted materials in a container that will allow the complete dripping of the wick.5. Drip the prepared wick one after the other in an interval that will allow the wick to

accumulate wax.6. Continue the dripping until the desired size of candle is obtained.

Source: ITDI (DOST)Keywords: Chemical technology, Candle wax production

FLOOR WAX MAKING

Materials:

Paraffin wax (China brand)Polyethylene wax (Japan brand)KeroseneTechnical dyeWax crystals

Procedure:

1. Mix 800 g. paraffin wax with 100 g. polyethylene wax.2. Melt the materials in a low fire.3. While still hot add wax crystals (optional) and technical dye (desired color). Stir the

mixture.4. Add 3.2 liters of kerosene.5. Pour in a desired mold or container and allow to harden.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

Keywords: Chemical technology, Floor wax production

RECYCLE RICE STRAW INTO HANDMADE PAPER

Materials:

rice strawsodium hydroxidesodium hypochloriderosin sizealumcheese cloth

Equipment:

mould -- sieve or fine screen, strains the pulpdeckle -- wooden frame, confines the pulp during sheet forming

60

caldron or drum -- should be alkali or acid-resistantdouble-decked screen box:upper deck: 20 mesh screen bottom boxlower deck: 100 mesh screen bottom boxwooden mallet -- press

Preparation of raw materials

Separate rice stalk from the leaves and panicles. Out these into 5-7 cm. pieces and then wash with water. Pulping Boil stalks in 2.0% sodium hydroxide solution using liquor to material ratio of 10:1 for 2-3 hours or until stalks become soft. Immediately after boiling, drain the stalks and transfer these into the screened bottom box.Wash stalks thoroughly with water. Pound stalks with a wooden mallet.The screen the pulp on double-decked screen-bottom box by running pulp under high water pressure.

Bleaching

Bleach the pulp either by single- or multi-stage bleaching process. The bleaching conditions are as follows:

Bleach solution (sodium hypochlorite) 2%Consistency 10%Duration 15 min.Temperature 35-45 CThoroughly wash the pulp with water after each stage.

Papermaking

Prior to sheet forming, allow the pulp to swell in water at 2% consistency for 30 minutes.

Drain the pulp and form this into balls. Beat the pulp with a wooden mallet until it is free of lumps when suspended in water. Transfer the beaten pulp into the paper vat. Add water to the desired consistency of the slurry. If you desire thin paper, add more

water; if thick paper, put less water. Add paper additives: rosin size (1%) and alum (2%) Dip the mould fitted in the deckle into the paper vat at an angle, straighten out and lift

it to catch an amount of the solution on top of the screen. Tilt the mould and deckle back and forth to the maker side and throw excess slurry

back to the paper vat. Shake the mould and deckle. Tilt the mould again back and forth until most of the water comes out through the

screen. Then separate the mould from the deckle and lay it on the pieces of blotting material

like cheesecloth. Cover this with another piece of blotting material. Pressed with a roller, slowly separate the screen from the street. Lay the sheet on a plan galvanized iron, cover it with blotters and press it four times

with a roller. Remove the blotters and hang the sheet to dry. The handmade paper produced is

creamy white, 0.43 mm. thick. It is suitable for special paper products like greeting cards, calling cards, and other novelty paper items.

Source: Technology, Vol. IX, No. 4, 1987

Keywords: Pulp & Paper Industry, Paper production

61

BOOK II (back to main page)

Snack Foods from Fruits and Vegetables Squash Cuchinta Cassava FlourSquash Maja Cassava ChippySquash Jelly Cassava ChipsSquash Macaroons Cassava Shrimp StickKalcosuman(Squash Suman) Cassava Butter CakeKalabasa Pan de Sal Cassava Cococut CookiesSquash Corn Chips Pandesal with CamoteNutritious Crunchies How to prepare TamalesIron Enriched Crunchies How to cook SiopaoRice Bran in Place of Flour Mongo KropeckSoybean Kropeck Taho From SoybeanTaho from Coconut Milk Soybean MilkSoybean Coffee Cheese from Powdered Milk and Coconut Milk

SNACKS FROM SQUASH

Eating between meals is a common habit among us. Squash is a good snack rich in Vitamin A and contains calcium, phosphorus and iron.

This becomes attractive snacks for the young when served in different ways.

A.SQUASH CUCHINTA

Materials:

1 cup mashed boiled squash3/4 cup brown sugar3/4 cup all purpose flour, shifted1 cup water1 teaspoon lye (dissolved)

Procedure:

1.Dissolve the sugar in water and boil, allow to cool.2.Add the flour little by little.3.Add the squash, keep on stirring until it becomes fine in texture.4.Shift.5.Add the lye, stir.6.Put the mixture in molds, with allowance of a little space from the rim.7.Cook in double boiler for 20 minutes.

B.SQUASH MAJA

Materials:1 cup cornstarch3 cups coconut milk (second extraction)1 cup coconut milk (first extraction)1½ cups squash, boiled and mashed1/4 teaspoon vanilla

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Procedure:

1. Mix cornstarch and 1 cup coconut milk (second extraction).2. Mix the 2 cups more.3. Add coconut milk (first extraction), squash, sugar, and vanilla. Mix thoroughly and

pass through a sieve.4. Cook over low fire, continually mixing until it becomes thick.5. Put in molds, let cool.6. Put "budbud" on top when served.

To prepare budbud: 1/3 cup sugar for every 1 cup coconut meal. Roast in carajay untilgolden brown.

C.SQUASH JELLY

Materials:

1 cup mashed boiled squash1 cup mashed boiled gabi½ cup white sugar1/3 cup condensed milk1/4 tsp.vanilla2 tbsp.butter1 tbsp.butter for lining molds

Procedure:

1. Sieve the squash and gabi until a fine paste is attained.2. Mix them together with sugar.3. Cook in low fire, continually stirring to prevent scorching.4. When thick, add condensed milk and vanilla, keep on stirring until the desired

consistency is attained.5. Add the butter, keep on stirring until the surface is smooth and glossy.6. Line the inside walls of the molds with butter, then...7. Put the mixture in the molds.

D.SQUASH MACAROONS

Materials:

½ cup butter4 eggs1/3 cup white sugar½ pack dessicated coconut2 tsp.vanilla3/4 cup grated squash

Procedure:

1.Cream the butter until light and fluffy.2.Add the sugar gradually while stirring.3.Add eggs one by one constantly stirring after adding each eggs.4.Add the condensed milk.5.Add the dessicated coconut, squash, vanilla, and mix well.6.Put in muffin molds lined with paper or aluminum foil.7.Cook in oven at 350°C for half an hour.

E.KALCOSUMAN (Squash Suman)

63

Materials:

½ cup malagkit rice2 cups grated squash1½ cups ordinary rice1/3 cup latik3/4 cup coconut milk (second extraction)1½ cups sugarbanana leavesstring

Procedure:

1. Soak overnight: rice and malagkit and grind on the following day.2. Soak the ground rice and malagkit in coconut milk until soft.3. Add the sugar and squash.4. Cook over low fire, constantly stirring until thick. Cool.5. Prepare the leaves for wrapping by heating over low fire. Brush the leaves with butter.6. Put two tablespoonful of the mixture in every wrap, put latik on top of each before

closing.7. Tie with string and cook for half an hour in a double boiler container.

Source: FNRI-DOST

KALABASA PAN DE SAL

Materials:

12% flour from squash88% ordinary flouryeast, salt (pinch), oil and sugar as in ordinary bread

Procedure:

1. Melt the yeast in warm water and leave it for 8-10 minutes.2. Mix together: squash flour, ordinary flour and oil. Beat with a Hobart mixer (Speed 2)

for 6 minutes while adding sugar and salt. Leave it for one-half hour.3. Knead the dough and roll to form pieces of pandesal.4. Put in oven and cook like ordinary bread.

Source: NSDB Completed Researches

SQUASH CORN CHIPS

Materials:

SquashCorn flourOilSugar or saltFlavoringProcedure:

1. Peel the squash, cut into fine pieces.2. Steam and grind.3. Mix squash and corn flour in the following proportions:

64

7 parts squash (70%)3 parts corn (30%)

4. Add flavoring and sugar (or salt).5. Steam for 15 minutes.6. Pass through a noodle machine at 1.2 cm.chips.7. Dry the resulting chips on a forced draft at 65°C-70°C for 2½ hours. This will last for

six weeks if packed in plastic bags and ten weeks if packed in laminated packs.

Source: R&D Completed Projects DOST

NUTRITIOUS CRUNCHIES

Growing children are naturally restless and move a lot because they are full of energy. And also because the parts of their body are developing, they need more energy giving foods to meet their needs for development and to replace the energy they spend. Because of this, children tend to eat more often. So, foods given to them must be nourishing ones a and not "junks." Supplementing corn with munggo gives much of the energy they need. This is enriched with Vitamins A and B.

Materials:

5 1/4 cups corn flour (800 gms.)1 3/4 cups munggo flour (200 gms.)5 cups water (about 900 ml.or less than 1 liter)2 cups cooking oilflavoring (cheese or barbecue)vitamins

Procedure:

1. Grind corn and munggo separately.2. Mix them together.3. Add the vitamins and water, knead until smooth.4. Put the dough into aluminum molds at 1.3 cm.thick.5. Steam for 20 minutes.6. Let the dough pass through a slicer at 2 cm.thick and desired shapes.7. Dry in the oven at 60°C-65°C for 2 hours or under the sun.8. Deep fry in oil until golden brown.9. Put in pan and sprinkle with flavoring.10. Seal in plastic bags, serve when desired.

IRON-ENRICHED CRUNCHIES

In order to meet the iron need of growing children, pregnant women and nursing mothers, this "nutri-crunch" is enriched with blood of animals (chicken, hog or cow).

Materials:

800 gms.rice flour150 gms.skimmed milk50 gms.powdered animal blood20 gms.sugar15 gms.salt60 gms.barbecue flavor700 ml.water

65

cooking oil

Procedure:

To prepare powdered blood:

1. Collect clean blood in a container. Keep it free from flies and dust.2. Spread the blood evenly over the aluminum pan at 3½ cm.thick.3. Steam for 10-20 minutes (until the blood coagulates).4. Grind or powder fine.5. Put the ground blood in a dryer, cover with muslin or sinamay.6. Dry in the oven at 60°C or under the sun until it is crispy; turn every one hour.7. Powder or grind the blood.

Procedure for Crispy Crunchies:

1. Powder the rice, mix it with the powdered blood and flavoring.2. Add water and knead until it becomes dough.3. Spread on aluminum pan about 1½ cm.thick.4. Steam for 20 minutes.5. Cut into desired sizes and shapes.6. Dry in the oven or under the sun until crispy.7. Deep fry in oil until the crunchies bloat.8. Add artificial flavor to the crunchies, shake until the flavor is evenly distributed.9. Seal in plastic bags.

Source: FNRI (DOST)

RICE BRAN IN PLACE OF FLOUR

DOST researchers have tried mixing rice bran with flour instead of using flour alone for bread and snacks, in efforts to increase the vitamin intake of children.

Procedure:

1. Shift the rice bran (very fine).2. Mix 10%, 20%, or 30% rice bran with flour to make spritz cookies, lemon snap

cookies, polvoron cookies or oatmeal cookies.

The taste and color of the snacks may be somewhat revealing, but it is acceptable in general.Source: Selected R&D Completed Projects NSTA 1982

CASSAVA FLOUR

There are two ways of making cassava flour:

A.

1. Cut into thin pieces the peeled root crop.2. Place in a basin of water.3. Spread the thin pieces on a tray to dry under the sun or in a solar dryer.4. Grind the dried cassava and sieve fine.5. Seal in a container with a tight cover.

66

B.

1. Clean the root crop, peel off the outer skin.2. Grate and squeeze out the juice.3. Spread the grated (squeezed) cassava on a tray to dry under the sun or in a solar dryer.4. Grind fine and dried cassava and sieve.5. Keep in a container with tight cover.

CASSAVA CHIPPY

Materials:

½ kilo grated cassava3 gms.vetsin½ gm.barbecue spice½ gm.black pepper5½ gms.salt

Procedure:

1. Clean the peeled cassava, then grate.2. Mix together the cassava and all ingredients. Mix well until it becomes a thick paste.3. Spread thinly and evenly over a banana leaf or aluminum tray.4. Steam for about 5 minutes.5. Remove from steamer, place on chopping board and cut into sizes, about 4 x 1½ cm.6. Remove the sliced pieces and arrange in a perforated tray.7. Dry under the sun or drier until crispy.8. Fry (or seal in a plastic bag if not ready to serve).

CASSAVA CHIPS

Materials:

1 kilo cassava1 tsp.vetsin2½ tsp.barbecue spice (for flavoring)3 tbsp.and 1 pinch salt9½ cups water

Procedure:

1. Wash cassava well, peel and slice very thinly.2. Soak in 2% salt water with flavoring.3. Spread on a tray and steam for 5 minutes.4. Dry in a solar drier at 60°C for 5 hours.5. Seal in plastic bags until ready for frying before serving.

CASSAVA SHRIMP STICK

Materials:

½ cup all purpose flour½ cup grated cassava2 tbsp.sugar1 tsp.baking powder1/4 tsp.salt5 tsp.powdered dried shrimp2 tsp.oil

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1 pinch sodium bicarbonate2 cups water

Procedure:

1. Wash the cassava, peel and grate.2. Remove excess juice.3. Mix together in a bowl all the dry ingredients.4. Add cassava and 2 tbsp.oil. Mix well.5. With the aid of 2 knives, cut the dough fine into sizes like mongo seeds.6. Add water and knead well.7. Spread the flour on the board and flatten the dough with the aid of a rolling pin. If

necessary, add more flour to facilitate dough flattening.8. Cut up the flattened dough into thin sizes shape into rolls similar to cigarette sticks.9. Arrange them in a baking pan and cook in oven.10. Remove the baking pan and cool.11. Remove the "sticks" from the pan with the aid of a knife.12. Seal in a plastic bag and label or serve.

CASSAVA BUTTER CAKE

Materials:

1 3/4 cups cassava flour1/4 cup powdered munggo1 cup sugar1 cup diluted milk½ cup margarine2 eggs2 tsp.baking powder½ tsp.vanilla

Procedure:

1. Sieve the cassava flour and baking powder together.2. Cream margarine in a big bowl until fine.3. Gradually add sugar with constant stirring.4. Add alternately and little by little, beaten egg yolk cassava flour munggo flour baking powder and milk

5. Mix well, stirring in one direction only.6. Beat the eggwhites until fluffy and stiff, and;7. Add little by little to the mixture.8. Put mixture in pan and cook in oven at 307°C for 25-30 minutes.9. Remove from oven and cool. Serve.

CASSAVA COCONUT COOKIES

Materials:

2½ cups wheat flour2½ cups cassava flour½ cup butter or margarine2 cups dessicated coconut2 eggs

68

5 tbsps.baking powder

Procedure:

1. Sieve together flour and baking powder.2. Add dessicated coconut.3. Cream butter in a separate bowl.4. Add sugar and egg gradually to the creamed butter.5. Add flour and baking powder and knead well until a soft dough is formed.6. Shape the dough into balls.7. Grease the tray with oil or margarine (about 5 gms.).8. Flatten the balls with the aid of a fork and arrange on the tray.9. Bake in pre-heated oven until golden brown.10. Remove tray from oven. Detach cookies while hot to keep them from sticking to the

pan.11. Cool, serve or seal in a plastic bag.

Source: Development Forum Vol.4, No.2, June 1988

PAN DE SAL WITH CAMOTE

In a study conducted at UP Los Baños, it was seen that pan de sal made from powdered camote, soybean and sorghum is more palatable, cheaper and more healthful than pan de sal made from flour alone.

Two proportions were tried:

A.

10% camote flour10% soybean80% all-purpose flourThis contains 12.25 gms.protein with 600 cal./100 gms.

B.

10% sorghum flour10% soybean flour80% all-purpose flourThis contains 14.26 gms.protein with 57.04 cal./100 gms. To make powdered camote, see procedure for cassava powder.

Source: Farming Today February 1981

HOW TO PREPARE TAMALES

Tamales is one of traditional specialties served during parties. This was introduced into the Philippines by the Spaniards and became a special delicacy.

Materials:

For 6-8 pieces tamales,3½ cups powdered ricetbsps.atsuete seeds6 cups coconut milk12 pcs.banana leaves or aluminum foil, 10" x 12"1 cup grown sugarsalt, pepper for flavoring

69

2 pcs.children breast, boiled and cut into ½" pieces1 cup ground roasted peanuts2 cups boiled peanuts½ kilo pork loin, cut into ½" pieces2 boiled eggs, sliced½ kilo cooked, shelled shrimps½ kilo cooked ham, cut into ½" pieces

Procedure:

1. Soak the atsuete seeds in ½ cup water. Macerate (with fingers) and let stand for ½ hour; strain and set aside the juice.

2. Mix together coconut milk, rice, sugar, salt and pepper.3. Cook mixture in low fire for 25 minutes with constant stirring so as not to allow

sticking on the pan.4. Add the ground roasted peanuts and cook further for about 8 minutes, and stirring

constantly.5. Set aside one-half of mixture in a container. This is the regular mixture.6. Add the atsuete juice to the remaining half, cook for 5 minutes while stirring

constantly. This is the (colored) red mixture.7. On a banana leaf (or tin foil) put 3 tbsp.of the regular mixture forming a 3-inch square

shape.8. Put on top the square pieces of chicken, pork, ham, egg and peanut.9. Cover with 3 tbsp.red mixture, wrap in banana leaves or tin foil. About 6-8 pieces can

be made from the mixture.10. Arrange in a kettle and steam for 20 minutes.

Source: Natural History July 1, 1990

HOW TO COOK SIOPAO

To make the dough:

4½ cups flour1 1/4 cups warm water3/4 cup sugar1/4 tsp.salt3 tbsp.oil1 tbsp.baking powder2 tsp.yeast

For the filling:

1/4 kilo pork or chicken½ cup cooked beans1 tbsp.flour dissolved in 1 tbsp. watergarlic, onions for sautening4 tbsp.soy sauce

Utensils:

mixing bowlwide board for making doughsquare pieces of paper for each siopao

Procedure:

1. Dissolve the yeast and sugar in the warm water; set aside for 10-15 minutes.

70

2. Mix together sugar, salt, oil in the mixing bowl.3. Add the dissolved yeast and half of the flour. Mix well.4. Add more the remaining flour and mix well.5. Knead the dough on the kneading board until smooth and fine.6. Make a big ball from the dough and put in the bowl lined with oil. Apply oil also on

the top of the dough.7. Cover and let the dough rise within 30-40 minutes.8. Flatten the dough, cut and make small balls. Let rise.9. Flatten the balls, put 1 tbsp.filling in each and close. Put the ball on the square sheet of

paper to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pan.10. Steam the balls for 10-15 minutes, depending on the size of the balls.

Filling:

1. Saute the garlic, onion, sliced pork or chicken.2. Put in the beans, soy and a little water.3. Before removing from the fire, pour in the dissolved flour for thickening. Stir well.

MONGO KROPECK

To provide increased nutrients in the snacks of children, the addition of mongo flour has been tried and found acceptable.

Materials:

5 cups rice flour2½ cups mongo flour2 cups oil or lard1½ tbsp.flavoring (cheese or barbecue)2/3 cup water

Procedure:

1. Separately, grind rice and mongo to make flour.2. Mix them together and add water and salt. Mix well until it becomes a soft dough.3. Spread the dough in an aluminum container about 1 cm.thick.4. Cook in a double boiler for about 15 minutes.5. Slice according to desired sizes or about 2 cm.each.6. Dry in the sun until brittle.7. Deep fry in boiling oil until crispy.8. Sprinkle flavoring and shake well.9. Serve or store in plastic bags. Seal.

From: FNRI (DOST)

SOYBEAN KROPECK

Procedure: (The procedure is similar to other kinds of kropeck)

1. Add rice powder, water and salt to the sapal of the milk from soybean.2. Mix well until a fine paste is attained.3. Spread over aluminum trays and steam for 15 minutes. Cool.4. Cut into desired sizes.5. Dry in the sun or heat in a cabinet dryer at 70°C for 3 hours or until dried.6. Deep fry in oil.7. Brush artificial flavoring on the kropeck.8. Serve or seal in plastic bags.

71

Source: ITDI (DOST)

TAHO FROM SOYBEAN

Materials:

3 cups mature and newly harvested soybeans2 bars white gulaman3 cups brown sugarstrainer (muslin or nylon cloth)

Procedure:

1. Soak soybeans overnight in water 3 times its volume.2. Remove outer covering, grind; add water little by little (at least 6 cups) while grinding.3. Dissolve 2 bars gulaman in boiling water (7 cups).4. Pour the ground soybean in boiling gulaman for 7 minutes or until the odor of grains is

removed.5. Set aside until it coagulates.6. Serve with syrup.

Syrup is prepared as follows:

3 cups sugar is dissolved in 3 cups water. The sugar may be caramelized to improve color and flavor.

Source: The Philippine Recommends for Soybean PCARRD 1991

72

TAHO FROM COCONUT MILK

Instead of soybeans, coconut milk may be used with gulaman in making taho.

Procedure:

1. Mix pure coconut milk with equal volume of water and heat.2. In a container, dissolve 1/4 gulaman bar in water, boil.3. Strain the dissolved gulaman and coconut milk. Heat and stir continuously for at least

20 minutes.4. Pour into molds and allow to cool and harden.

To make syrup:

Dissolve 2 cups brown sugar in one cup water. Heat until thick.

Source: ITDI-DOST

SOYBEAN MILK

Materials:

1 cup soybeans3 cups water for cooking

Procedure:

1. Soak soybeans overnight. Rinse, drain.2. Boil in water for ½ hour.3. Drain, grind fine.4. Add 3 cups water.5. Strain to extract juice.6. Boil for at least 15 minutes.

SOYBEAN COFFEE

Soybean "coffee" is a recommended substitute for real coffee for consumers with heart ailments.

Procedure:

1. Clean the grains, remove foreign particles.2. Roast in a frying pan for 30 minutes in low fire or until half brown in color.3. Grind or pound finely.4. Cook as ordinary coffee.

Source: The Philippine Recommends for Soybean PCARRD 1991

CHEESE FROM POWDERED MILK AND COCONUT MILK (Contains 12% - 14% protein)

Materials:

1 2/3 cups skim milk powder6½ cups water1½ cups coconut milk (first and second extraction)4 tbsp.salt1 1/3 tsp.coagulant (DTRI-IFS-6 milk coagulant)

73

This can be made by soaking in hot water a piece of the cow's abomasum (available at slaughterhouses) or cruderennet extract -- 20 cc.in 1 tbsp.vinegar.

Utensils:

Casserole or container (with 2-liter capacity)Thermometer, stirrer, dipper, knife, perforated trayMuslin cloth, banana leaves or cut-wrap paper

Procedure:

1. Put the powdered milk in casserole and put water little by little until dissolved.2. Add coconut milk and salt, stir well.3. Heat to 75°C, stir slowly.4. Cool container with milk in a vessel with water to cool until it is 38°C-40°C.5. Put coagulant and stir for a minute.6. Cover container and set aside for 40-50 minutes or until it has hardened and can be

sliced.7. Cut into 1" x 1" pcs., set aside for 10 minutes.8. Drain the yellowish green filtrate but take care not to disturb the coagulated cheese.9. Stir a little more the coagulated cheese to draw out more water (until 1½ liter in all).10. Put the coagulated milk in the perforated tray or mold with muslin linings. Make the

thickness even, cover with muslin cloth and let it drain some more for 1 to 2 hours. If a harder cheese is desired, put in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator overnight to draw out more water.

Source: Greenfields, Vol.13 October 1983

74

BOOK II (back to main page)

Sweets and Preserved Fruits and Vegetables

Mango Jam Dried Sweet MangoMango Chutney Preserved Green MangoPreserved Camias Dried Sweet PapayaPrunes from balimbing Tomato CandyPineapple Candy Pineapple JuiceNata de Pina Sweet Pomelo RindSweet Calamansi Rind Sayote CandyGuava Jelly Duhat JellyDuhat Juice Orange MarmaladeJuice from the Native Orange Guyabano JuiceSantol Candy Vitamin Enriched Coco Jam

MANGO JAM

In preparing mango jam, don't use metal utensils like knife, casserole or other similar metal containers of the jam produced.

Procedure:

1. Wash rip mangoes, slice and scrape the flesh.2. Pass through a course strainer.3. For every 2 cups mango, add 1 cup sugar.4. Cook in a heavy aluminum casserole or frying pan and keep on stirring until thick.5. Keep in jars that had been sterilized (or exposed to the heat of the sun) and cover.

Source: Food & Nutrition Research Institute

DRIED SWEET MANGO

"Pico" mango has been found to be the best source for mango candy.

Procedure:

1. Slice the flesh of the fruit.2. Add syrup little by little to make it absorb the sugar from 50°-60° Brix.3. Add 0.2% sodium metabisulfite as preservative.4. Dry in oven as in other sweetened preserves, at 54°C for 2 hours until the moisture is

reduced to 16%.

Source: Selected R&D Completed Projects NSTA 1982

MANGO CHUTNEY

Materials:

4 cups sliced semi-ripe mangoes½ pc. ginger1 pc. garlic8 pcs. native onions2 pcs. pepper1 small box raisins2 cups vinegar3 cups brown sugar

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4 tbsp. table salt

Utensils:

stainless knifeenamel bowlmeasuring cupcasserolestovedipperjarschopping board

Procedure:

1. Choose same sizes of mangoes, wash well.2. Peel and divide into two, remove seeds.3. Slice the mangoes lengthwise, about 1/4 inch thick.4. Place in jars, sprinkle with table salt, set aside overnight.5. Drain the mango.6. Boil the vinegar and sugar.7. Add the flavoring spices and heat more for 5 minutes.8. Add the sliced mango, cook until the combined mixtures of sugar, vinegar and other

Remaining ingredients become thick in consistency.9. Transfer into sterilized jars and cover.10. Cool with cover upside down.

Source: NSTA Regional Technology Development Program Bicutan, Taguig, M.M.

PRESERVED GREEN MANGO

Procedure:

1. Slice green mangoes, wash well.2. Sprinkle with salt (not more than 10%, not less than 5% in equal amount of water).3. Let stand overnight.4. On the next day, add an equal amount of water and set aside for 2 weeks.

PRESERVED CAMIAS(Procedure is same as in mango)

Source: IV Selected R&D Completed Projects, NSTA 1982

DRIED SWEET PAPAYA

There are places in this country where fruits about, but there is no way of transporting them to market, thus they become rotten and are wasted away, or are given to hogs. In places where there is an oversupply of papaya for instance, the fruits can be preserved for as long as 10 months.

Materials:

Half-ripe papaya, 1 kiloKalamansi juice, 1 tbsp. for every cup of syrupSodium metabisulfite powder, for every 1/4 tsp. = + 1 tsp. lime in 4 cups water1 part sugar for 2 parts water

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1 kilo sugar for every kilo of papaya

Procedure:

1. Peel the half-ripe papaya and remove seeds, wash.2. Slice into pieces, about 12 x 4 cm.3. Arrange in nylon or sinamay and steam for 5-6 minutes.4. Soak overnight in lime-metabisulfite solution.5. Drain.6. Soak the papaya overnight in hot syrup with calamansi.7. Next day, drain the syrup and add 1½ cups more sugar.8. Soak again overnight the papaya in hot syrup.9. Repeat nos. 7, 8 & 9 for three more days.10. Drain and rinse.11. Arrange in trays and put in oven at 65°C-70°C for 16-18 hours, or dry in the sun until

it becomes tough.12. Keep in plastic bags, seal.

Source: Food & Nutrition Research Institute

PRUNES FROM BALIMBING

Materials:

2 kilos balimbing1 kilo brown sugarsalttoyo1 tbsp. lime in 1 gal. water

Procedure:

1. Choose balimbing fruits that are firm; wash.2. Slice lengthwise into four parts.3. Soak in water with lime overnight.4. Wash next day in running water.5. Boil in water for 5 minutes.6. Add the brown sugar, boil for an hour.7. Add the salt and toyo.8. Drain.9. Dry under the sun.10. Cool, pack in plastic bags, seal.

Source: PCARRD, Monitor September 1989

TOMATO CANDY

In summer, tomatoes abound. Thus, it is good to preserve them for future use especially when they are not in season. One of the ways of preserving them is by making candy.Materials:

Ripe, red tomatoes with thick fleshWhite sugarJars

Procedure:

1. Wash, blanch in hot water and peel.

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2. Slice crosswise in the middle, remove seeds.3. Add sugar in the same volume as tomatoes and leave overnight.4. Boil in low fire until the tomatoes become clear.5. Drain the syrup.6. Spread the candy on a tray and dry under the sun or in an oven (cabinet dryer) until

almost dry.7. Roll over white sugar and dry again until crispy.8. Wrap each in cellophane or place in plastic bags or jars. Seal.

Source: Food Technology Research and Development Program ITDI, DOST

PINEAPPLE CANDY

Materials:

1 pineapple (moderate size)4 cups sugar

Utensils:

casserole/karajaychopping boardmeasuring cupknifestovecellophane/plastic bagssolar drierspoonsievecandletray

Procedure:

1. Peel the pineapple, remove eyes, core and wash.2. Slice into cubes.3. Prepare the syrup, 2 parts sugar to 1 part water.4. Boil the pineapple in the syrup for 20 minutes.5. Soak in syrup overnight.6. Strain and wash well in water.7. Dry in solar drier for 16-20 hours.8. Cool.9. Roll over sugar and wrap in cellophane.10. Put in plastic bags; seal open end of bag with the flame of a candle.

Source: NSTA Appropriate Technology Program Bicutan, Taguig, M.M.PINEAPPLE JUICE

Choose good ripe pineapples, not bruised or over ripe.

Procedure:

1. Slice into small pieces, extract the juice.2. For every liter of juice, to avoid molds, add ½ percent sodium benzoate 3 gms. citric

acid. Sugar may be added if desired.3. Heat at 80°C for 5 minutes, constantly stirring.4. Put in jars or containers while still hot.

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5. Heat in double boiler for 15 minutes. Cool. This can also be done with sugarcane juice.

Source: ITDI, DOST

NATA DE PIÑA

Procedure:

1. Choose ripe pineapples, wash well, peel, slice into small pieces.2. Grind or chop; extract juice by slightly squeezing using the hands.3. Add an equal amount of water to the chopped pineapple.4. For every 5 cups of pineapple and water, add ½ cup mother liquor.5. Pour into wide-mouthed jars, fill up to 1/3 full.6. Cover jars with paper, set aside from 3 weeks to let the nata grow, then harvest when

it is ready.7. Wash the nata well, slice into cubes.8. Soak in water for 2 days, change water several times.9. Boil in water about 3 times to remove mold and taste of vinegar.10. Drain and add sugar equal in amount as the weight of nata and stir well. Soak

overnight.11. Drain for 10 minutes, add flavoring.12. Put in preserving jars and sterilize in boiling water for 25 minutes.13. After removing nata from the jar, add one cup water to the jar. Cover and let the nata

grow again. This will provide 4 or 5 harvests.

Source: PCARRD-DA Farmnews March-April 1991

SWEET POMELO RIND

Procedure:

To remove bitter/pungent taste.

1. Boil in water for 15 minutes, change water 3 times.2. Soak the rind in 2% salt water overnight.3. Soak the rind in syrup; add sugar to the syrup every 3 hours.4. Boil in the last thick syrup for 3 minutes.5. Rinse in boiling water. Drain. The resulting candy is green.

Source: Selected R&D Complete Projects NSTA 1982

SWEET CALAMANSI RIND

Procedure:

1. Boil the calamansi rind for 10 minutes.2. Separate the pulp from the peelings.3. Soak in 3% salt water for 24 hours.4. Boil for 10 minutes, change water 2 times.5. Soak in syrup while adding sugar little by little (35°-65° Briz). Add sugar up to 10°Bx

every 3 hours.6. To make the rind glossy, boil in the last thickness of syrup for 10 minutes.7. Rinse in boiling water, drain.8. Dry the rind in an oven for 2 hours at 54.5°C or until the moisture reaches 16%.

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The color of this candy is green or olive green. It is soft and has the taste of calamansi-menthol.

Source: Selected R&D Complete Projects NSTA 1982

CHAYOTE CANDY

Materials:

1 kilo chayote½ tsp. lime½ cup sugar

Procedure:

1. Wash, peel the chayote, remove core and slice lengthwise.2. Dissolve ½ tsp. lime in 4½ cups water and soak the chayote in it for 3 hours.3. Drain, put in boiling water for 5 minutes; drain again.4. Put ½ cup sugar (for every kilo of chayote). Soak overnight, then drain next day.5. Put again ½ cup sugar, boil and soak the chayote in it.6. Drain, put the chayote in hot water.7. Add again 1/4 cup sugar to the syrup and boil until thick.8. Soak the chayote in this syrup for a few days.9. Drain, add hot water.10. Let dry. Cool, pack in plastic bag, seal.

GUAVA JELLY

Materials:

mature guava (not so ripe)calamansisugardenatured alcohol (for testing)

Utensils:

aluminum casserolewooden spoonsinamay for strainingmuslin clothmeasuring cupjars

Procedure:

1. Wash the guavas, remove ends.2. Slice into small pieces, put in a container with the fruits slightly immersed in water.3. Boil in low fire until soft for about 12-15 minutes.4. Wrap in wet muslin cloth, twist the cloth to draw out the juice a little, but not the pulp.5. Test the pectin content. Put one tablespoon juice in 2 tbsp. denatured alcohol. If it

becomes turbid, the pectin content is weak; if it is rich in pectin, it will form solids.6. To test the acidity, put 1 tbsp. calamansi juice in 8 tbsp. water. If this is too sour, add

papaya or melon juice. If not, add some more calamansi juice.7. Add 1 cup sugar for every cup juice. Stir well to dissolve the sugar.8. Boil and filter again to remove foreign particles or undissolved sugar.9. Boil well without stirring until the thickness of jelly is attained.

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It is jelly if:

a) the temperature on top is 104°C-105°C.b) dip a teaspoon into the mixture. If when it is drawn out, the syrup is like fiber, it is

already jelly.c) drop 1½ tsp. of the mixture into a glass of water. If the drop falls to the bottom and

does not spread, it is jelly.10. Let the bubbles disappear or filter them out with the help of the sinamay strainer

before pouring into jars.11. Cool a little. Poor dissolved candle on top of the hardened jelly. If the jar is new, the

candle is not necessary, as new jars have a rubber lining that seals the jar tightly.12. Close the jar and store in a cool dark place.

NOTE: Other fruits rich in pectin are: anonas, guayabano, granada, papaya, rimas, banana, santol, chico, sineguelas and tomato among others.

Source: FNRI 1989

DUHAT JUICE

Procedure:

1. Wash the duhat well, measure in cup or glass, put in an equal amount of water.2. Boil for 15 minutes.3. Squeeze out the juice by means of a clean cloth bag.4. Repeat addition of water to the pulp, boil, squeeze.5. Add first and second extraction together, strain in 3-fold sinamay strainer.6. Add desired sugar and kalamansi (or ascorbic acid).7. Boil again, pour into containers while hot.8. Cover and cool.

DUHAT JELLY

Note: Use only ripe duhat fruits.

Procedure:

1. Wash fruits, remove stems.2. Boil in a little water for about 3 minutes.3. Remove from fire and mash with a wooden spoon.4. Put the cooked pulp in a cloth bag, strain.5. Add a tbsp. calamansi juice and 1 cup sugar for every cup of duhar juice.6. Stir well to dissolve sugar, strain again.7. Cook again until all small bubbles disappear and the big bubbles seem to jump out.8. Remove particles on top and pour into containers.

Source: Health & Home Vol. 13(4)

ORANGE MARMALADE

Materials:

sevilla oranges1 lemonsugar

Procedure:

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1. Wash the fruits, remove ends, seeds, dirt.2. Chop the fruits (with peels).3. Put the chopped pieces (with peels) in a big container, cover with water. The amount

of water will not matter because this will be reduced to the desired amount and sweetness. It must reach 105°C.

4. Boil without cover for 20-30 minutes or until the amount has been reduced to 1/3.5. Heat again.6. For every more or less one liter, add 1 cup sugar little by little and keep on stirring

until the sugar is dissolved.7. Boil until thick or until 105°C -- when a drop becomes syrupy when placed on a

saucer at room temperature.8. Remove from fire for 5-10 minutes.9. Stir, pour into jars. See to it that no part of the peel extends out.10. Pour a little alcohol like brandy or vodka around 1 tsp. on top of the syrup if desired.

This will prevent the growth of molds that may form between the cover and the marmalade.

11. A screwed cap may also be used when the marmalade has somewhat cooled.

Source: A Connoisseurs Guide & Cookbook Simon & Schuster 1991 (Natural History, December 1991)

JUICE FROM THE NATIVE ORANGE

Procedure:

1. Select fully ripe and healthy naranghita.2. Wash, cut crosswise into halves.3. Extract the juice, strain.4. Sugar may or may not be added.5. Heat the juice at 85°C for about 5 minutes, continuously stir.6. While still hot, pour into bottles that had been sterilized. Leave about ½ cm. space

from the rim.7. Cook in a double boiler in low fire for about 10 minutes.8. Tighten the cap, cool, set aside. Water and sugar are added according to taste.Source: FNRI, DOSTGUAYABANO JUICE

The manner of making fruit juices is almost similar in all fruits. The only difference is the inclusion of certain additives, or in the manner of preservation.

Materials:

ripe guayabanosugarcalamansi

Utensils:

measuring cup and spoonjars or can for preservingmuslin cloth bagknife, casserole

Procedure:

1. Wash the fruit, peel, remove seeds and core.2. Slice in 5 cm. cubes.3. Add 1 cup of water for every cup of guayabano juice.

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4. Heat at 80°C for 3 minutes. If a thermometer is not available, heat until the fruit is soft and the juice can be extracted easily.

5. Extract the juice by means of the muslin cloth while still hot.6. Make a second extraction by adding an equal amount of water and mix with the first

extraction.7. Put 1/4 tsp. calamansi juice for every cup of guayabano juice; add sugar to taste.8. Put in bottles for sterilizing. Heat in a double boiler at 82°C for 15 minutes from the

time the water gets hot.9. Close well and put in the boiling water for about 10 minutes.10. Close the bottles well; label.

Source: FNRI 1989

SANTOL CANDY

Materials:

santol fruitsugarlye (commercial flakes of sodium hydroxide)

Utensils:

aluminum traywooden spoon for stirringbamboo or wire traycasserole (stainless or porcelain)thermometer, knife

Procedure:

1. Wash the santol in running water.2. Blanch in boiling water for about 3-5 minutes.3. Dip in 5% lye for 5 minutes in almost boiling temperature (94°C), more or less one

cup sodium hydroxide in 3 liters water.4. Put immediately in running water, scrape off the peels.5. Slice into pieces, remove seeds.6. Prepare the syrup -- ½ cup sugar for every cup water, and add the santol -- enough to

be covered in the container.7. Boil the santol in this syrup for about 3-5 minutes, soak in the syrup overnight.8. Remove the syrup. Add ½ cup sugar for every 3 cups syrup and boil until thick.9. Put the santol in this syrup, leave overnight.10. Repeat this process three times.11. Remove the santol from this last soaking in syrup and rinse in running water.12. Spread on a tray and dry in the sun or in a solar drier.13. Pack in plastic bags storing.

Source: Preserve Foods at Home FNRI 1989

VITAMIN ENRICHED COCO JAM

To enrich the usual coco jam with vitamins, the following proportion is used:

2 parts coconut extract1 part sugar (brown)1% Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)2%-7% powdered soybean, green peas, chick peas, rice

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This mixture when cooked, does not last as long as when it is cooked in the traditional way of cooking coco jam, so it should not be stored.

Source: Completed R&D Projects 1-355 STII-DOST

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BOOK II (back to main page)

Seasons and Appetizers

Cheap Source of Vinegar Different Uses of VinegarVinegar from Rice Washing Sauce from Banana PeelingsVinegar from Pineapple Juice Paste from Banana PeelingsVinegar from Banana Peelings Chayote CatsupBean Curd(tokwa) Miso(soybean)Rice soy Noodles Sotanghon from MongoSprouted Mongo(toge) Gelatin from SeaweedsMeat Tenderizer How to Make PapainHow to Make Balut Salty Eggs in Clay(mud)Fresh eggs and their Uses Mayonnaise

CHEAP SOURCE OF VINEGAR

A student from the Panobo Provincial High School (Dean Cabote), as early as 1977, had proven that the stalk of the coconut leaves could yield vinegar. Just as the coconut blossoms can yield tuba because of the elements present in them, so also would the stalk, as the same nutrients are present in the same tree.

Procedure:

1. Cut fresh stalks, slice into sizes 10 cm. wide and ½ cm. thick, about 10 pieces.2. Boil these in 1 liter water for 10 minutes, cool until lukewarm.3. Add 10 grams white sugar (about 2 tbsp.) and 3 grams yeast (about 1 tsp.).4. Transfer them in a jar and cover with muslin cloth until fermented.5. After 2 weeks, strain and cook in a double boiler for about 10 minutes.6. The 800 grams that will remain will be as sour and as aromatic as a 6-week-old

vinegar from tuba.

Source: Agricultural and Industrial Life

VINEGAR FROM RICE WASHINGS

Materials:

White sugarYeast

Procedure:

1. Strain the second rice washing in a clean cloth.2. For every cup of rice water, put 3/4 cup white sugar. Stir well to dissolve the sugar.3. Cook this in a double boiler for 20 minutes. Cool.4. Transfer in a gallon or jar.5. Add 1/4 teaspoon yeast for every 4 cups rice water.6. Allow to ferment in 4-7 days or until bubbles disappear.7. Age the vinegar in a jar or demijohn. Set it aside for a month or until the desired

acidity is attained.8. Filter and boil in a double boiler before bottling.9. If a clear vinegar is desired, put 2 beaten eggwhites for every 40 cups vinegar and

filter.Source: Selected R&D Projects NSTAVINEGAR FROM PINEAPPLE JUICE

Vinegar can be made from ripe, over ripe or bruised pineapples or even from the peelings.

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Procedure:

1. Mash the ripe pineapple or parts, add 3 parts water to every one part pineapple.2. Filter in double muslin cloth.3. Add 1½ kilo sugar for every 9 liters filtered juice.4. Boil in low fire (65°C for 20 minutes), cool.5. Pour into demijohns or ceramic or enamel containers, add 2 tsp. Fleischmann's yeast.6. Cover with clean muslin cloth or put loose stopper covered with cotton.7. Set aside for 4-7 days until bubbles disappear.8. Filter in clean muslin to remove residues.9. Boil again at 65°C for 20 minutes. Cool.10. Add 2 liters vinegar starter (or very strong vinegar).11. Fill the containers, leave it for a month or until the desired acidity is attained.12. Filter the vinegar and cook in double boiler (65°C) so as to avoid growth of

microorganisms.13. Transfer to suitable containers. If a clear vinegar is desired, add 2 beaten eggwhites

for every 10 liters vinegar solution. Heat until the whites coagulate. Filter.

Source: ITDI (DOST)

VINEGAR FROM BANANA PEELINGS

Materials:

For every kilo of banana peels (cavendish or saba), add: 3/4 cups sugar1/4 cups ammonium sulfitevinegar starter (or very strong vinegar)baker's yeast

Procedure:

1. Boil the peelings in 4 cups water.2. Remove the water, filter in muslin cloth.3. Add the ammonium sulfite and sugar. Cool.4. Add a pinch of baker's yeast.5. Allow to ferment for 8 days. Its alcohol content will be 9%-10%.6. Add a cup of vinegar starter and set the mixture aside.7. Allow to ferment for 27 days. At this time, its alcohol content will be about 4%-6%.8. Allow the mixtures to ferment further in bottles.

Source: INFO SCIENCE Vol1, No. 3

DIFFERENT USES OF VINEGAR

According to researchers, vinegar is used, not only for food but for many other uses as well, such as:

1. To avoid much absorption of oil, put a teaspoon of vinegar in oil when frying.2. So as to keep potatoes from blackening before boiling, put some drops of vinegar in

the boiling water.3. When cooking eggs out of its shell, put a teaspoon of vinegar in the water so that the

eggwhite will not scatter.4. To keep the grains of rice whole (and not splitting), put a teaspoon of vinegar in the

water when cooking.5. A teaspoon of vinegar hastens the tenderizing of meat during cooking.

Other Uses:

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1. To remove odor from bottles or jars, rinse them with water containing a small amount vinegar.

2. When dirty clothes are soaked in warm vinegar, perspiration stains will disappear.3. Stains of scorching from ironing can be removed if the garment will be washed with

vinegar water.4. A teaspoon of vinegar added to rinsing water for nylon stockings will retain its

elasticity.5. A teaspoon of vinegar in a pint of varnish gives gloss to the varnish.6. The smell of paint in a room can be removed by putting a small saucer of vinegar in

the room.

SAUCE FROM BANANA PEELINGS

For every kilo of banana peelings (cavendish or saba), add:

12 tbsp. sugar9 tbsp. vinegar1/4 tsp. sodium benzoatesalt, pepper to taste

Procedure:

1. Wash and slice the banana peelings into small pieces. Remove fibers.2. Dip in boiling water for about 10 minutes.3. Add 2 cups water, mash well, strain in muslin cloth.4. Add the sugar, vinegar, salt and pepper.5. Cook in a casserole with cover for 10 minutes.6. Add vinegar syrup with flavoring and continue stirring until thick.7. Add 1/4 tsp. sodium benzoate.8. Transfer in clean bottles, cover tightly.9. Boil for 15 minutes in water, cool.

Source: Info Science, Vol. I, No. 3

PASTE FROM BANANA PEELINGS

For every kilo of banana peelings, add:

1 tsp. salt2 cups water

Procedure:

1. Dip the peelings in boiling water for 10 minutes.2. Add 2 cups water to the peelings, mash well and strain in a muslin cloth.3. Add salt.4. Cook until a thick paste is attained.5. Pour into clean bottles, remove the air.6. Boil for 15 minutes, cool.

Source: Info Science, Vol. I, No. 3

CHAYOTE CATSUP

Materials:

chayote

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garliconionssodium benzoatevinegarpeppersalt sugar

Procedure:

1. Wash the chayote, slice lengthwise.2. Peel, remove the seed and cut into cubes.3. Boil in little water.4. Drain, mash well.5. Slice the onions, garlic, hot pepper.6. Mix well in enough vinegar, sugar and a pinch of salt.7. Cook until thick consistency is attained.8. Dissolve a little food color if desired, in ½ cup of water; add a pinch of sodium

benzoate.9. Put in a bottle or jar; cook in a double boiler.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews May 1987

BEAN CURD (Tokwa)

Materials:

1 cup soybeans1 teaspoon vinegar

Procedure:

1. Soak the beans in water overnight. Change water several times and remove floating grains.

2. Wash, grind the soybeans. Add about 6 cups water for every cup of beans while grinding.

3. Boil the ground beans in water for ½ hour while stirring.4. Strain in muslin cloth.5. Mix in well a teaspoon of vinegar.6. Wrap in cloth the curdled soybean.7. Remove the express water by putting weight on top of it.

The curdled tokwa can be a substitute for meat.

Source: The Philippines Recommends PCARRD 1991

MISO (SOYBEAN)

The preparation of miso (which comes in 3 kinds) depends on the length of time it is fermented and stored.

Materials:

Wooden box 60 x 30 x 5 cm.pressure cooker or casserolegrinder

A.

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White Miso½ kilo soybeans1 kilo rice300 grams saltstarter (A. Oryzae)

B.

Average Salty and Yellowish Miso5 kilos soybeans5 kilos rice2 kilos saltstarter

C.

Salty and Darker Miso5 kilos soybeans3 kilos rice2-10 kilos saltstarter

Procedure:

A. RICE

1. Wash the rice, soak overnight.2. Steam cook until the grains can be pressed between the fingers.3. Cook until 35°C and add starter.4. Mix well, put in a box and in a place with about 25°C temperature. If the place is

warmer than this, open all ventilation to allow free circulation of air.5. Let the mold grow within 24-48 hours. Stir the rice in the box every 5 hours and

change the places of the boxes as they are piled.

B. SOYBEANS

1. Wash the soybeans, soak overnight.2. Change the water 3 times and remove the coatings.3. Cook in 2 parts water until soft. Cool.4. Grind (or mash).5. Mix the rice (with mold and salt). Set aside 20 grams salt for covering the top of the

mixture.6. Put in a barrel, pressed and compact (no air) and put salt on top.7. Cover with plastic sheet, put weight over it so as to keep it from floating.8. Keep in a room with about 15°C-30°C temperature.9. Let this ferment:

1 month for white miso3 months for average miso6 months for salty miso

10. Grind the miso.11. Cook in double boiler at 50°C for 20 minutes.12. Put in plastic bags, remove air and seal.

Source: The Philippines Recommends for Soybean 1991

RICE-SOY NOODLES

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To increase the protein content of the Filipino diet, researchers at FNRI (DOST) have come up with an enriched kind of noodle that can somehow supplement their protein and energy needs.

Materials:

Rice (880 grams) -- or 4½ cupsWater (630 ml.) or 2 3/4 cupsSoybean flour (200 grams) or 2½ cupsSalt (30 grams) or 6 tsps.Cornstarch (50 grams) or ½ cup

Utensils:

BowlTeaspoonCupCornmill/grinderMixerKettleNoodle machineSolar dryer/cabinet dryer

Procedure:

1. Measure 4½ cups rice, soak in 2 3/4 boiling water for an hour.2. Grind the soaked rice.3. Add the 2½ cups soybean flour, 6 teaspoons salt and ½ cup ground rice.4. Mix well for about 5-7 minutes to make dough.5. Mold the dough into balls about 6.5 cm.-7.5 cm. diameter.6. Cook in boiling water for 30 minutes.7. Drain the cooked dough for about 10 minutes.8. Pass the dough through the noodle machine to make noodles.9. Dry the noodles in a cabinet dryer for 4 hours at 48°C-50°C or in the sun until they

become brittle.

Source: FNRI (DOST)

SOTANGHON FROM MONGO

The usual sotanghon is made from soybeans, but since this is important and more costly, researchers at UP Los Baños have produced sotanghon using mongo, without any distinction from the usual soybean sotanghon.

Procedure:

To make starch:

1. Soak the mango overnight.2. Grind several times and sieve at 400 mesh.3. The residue that is left is the material for sotanghon. The portion that is not used

contains much protein, which is used as hog feed.

To make noodles:

1. Add water to the starch while stirring, until the right consistency is attained, that is the starch becomes fibery but does not snap.

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2. Dip the fibrous starch in boiling water.3. Rinse.4. Store first in a cool place before drying.5. Dry in the sun until only about 4% moisture is retained.

Source: Division Ideas Magazine August 1990

SPROUTED MONGO (TOGE)

Toge can be made from both mongo seeds or soybeans.

Procedure:

1. Soak the beans in water overnight.2. Spread a piece of white cloth over a "bilao" or tray and put the beans on it.3. Cover with another cloth; sprinkle water over it every now and then.4. Keep in cool dark place. This will sprout in 3 days.

This can also be done in a container where water passes through and has enough space for growth of the beans. Wet the beans now and then as in the cloth in the "bilao."

Source: The Philippines Recommends for Soybeans PCARRD 1991

GELATIN FROM SEAWEEDS

Seaweeds must be harvested from the sea very early in the morning or while the tide is still low.

Procedure:

1. Wash the seaweeds very well, drain and dry (Spread over a wire or bamboo screen for the purpose) for a week.

2. To remove the fishy odor and taste, soak and dry the seaweeds in fresh water for 5-10 minutes, and dry again in the sun until it becomes dirty yellow in color.

3. Bleach in 1 liter of water with 1 tbsp. vinegar until it turns olive green in color.4. Put again in the sun until it turns light brown.

To extract agar:

5. Put 1 kilo dried seaweeds in 1 liter water with 1 tbsp. Vinegar (or more effective, in -- 3½ liter water, 80 ml. 0.1 N sulfuric acid (H2SO4)

6. Boil and constantly stir for 1 hour.7. Strain in muslin cloth while hot.8. Allow to cool in room temperature for 5 hours.9. When it has hardened, slice into desired sizes.10. Put in ice sprinkled with salt for 2-3 days, or in a freezer overnight.11. Next day, thaw the frozen seaweeds and allow to dry.12. Put again in the sun until the desired fineness is attained.13. When it cools, it is then ready to cook or bring to market.

Source: PCARRD Monitor August 1987

MEAT TENDERIZER

Soak the meat for a few minutes in papain-water solution, 1/10% to 1% before cooking.

Source: Chemical Formulary (Bennet) Vol. 23

91

HOW TO MAKE PAPAIN

Papain is made from green papaya fruits while these are still attached to the tree.

The bigger is the fruit, the more latex is derived. More amount of latex is gathered if this is done 3 times a week in a month. The more cuts are made, the less is the flow of latex. The best time for gathering latex is between 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon.

Procedure:

1. Cut the raw papaya (on the tree) with a sharp glass, about 2 mm. deep.2. Collect the flowing latex in a plastic container and put in a glass bottle.3. Dry the latex in the sun or oven.4. Pulverize the dried latex.

Source: Selected R&D Completed Projects, NSDB 1980

HOW TO MAKE BALUT

There are two ways of making balut -- one is for a commercial scale and the other for a small home industry. Both duck and chicken eggs may be used, but the usual eggs used are ducks' eggs.

Procedure:

For Small Scale Industry:

1. Prepare a big wooden box; line this with heated rice hull at the bottom, about 38°C and 6-8 inches thick.

2. Arrange the eggs in bags of about 20 or 50 pieces each, put them on the heated hull and cover again with the same thickness of heated hull.

3. Cover the box very well so as to prevent quick loss of heat.4. Every morning, inspect the eggs to see if the rice hull needs reheating. The hull must

be about 38°C.5. On the third day, examine the eggs against a bright light to see if the germ plasm has

developed. This is the part of the egg that becomes the chick, if the egg is fertile.

If no germ plasm develops, remove these eggs. These are sold as "penoy." Put back into heated hull those eggs with germ plasm.

6. On the 13th day, examine again the eggs against the light. Remove the eggs without germ plasm. At this stage, those with developing germ plasm are the "balut sa puti.."

7. On the 17th day, the chicks will be growing little feathers. These may now be cooked.

For Commercial Scale:

The process is the same except that an incubator is used instead of heated rice hull.

Source: Coffee and Cocoa Journal February 1981

SALTED EGGS IN CLAY (MUD)

Another way of salting eggs is by storing them in clay instead of in brine.

Materials:

eggs (duck or chicken)salt

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clay

Utensils:

measuring cupearthenware

Procedure:

1. Mix together 12 cups clay and 4 cups salt. Add water little by little as it is being mixed until an even distribution is attained.

2. Put a thick layer of this mixture at the bottom of the pot.3. Wrap each egg in clay.4. Arrange the eggs in the pot, about 2½ cm. apart to keep from breaking.5. Cover again with salted clay and set aside for 2 weeks.6. After about 2 weeks, try an egg. Cook at a heat that does not reach boiling point. If

it is not yet salty enough, let the rest stay longer in the pot.7. When the right saltiness has been reached, cook the eggs in water that does not boil up

to 100°C for 15 minutes.8. Brush with red color if desired.

FRESH EGGS AND THEIR USES

Eggs are fresh when:

1. The yolk can be discerned if the egg is put against the light.2. The egg lies flat on its side when put in water.3. The yolk is firm and the white is jelly-like, not spreading when the egg is broken.

Extend the freshness of eggs:

1. In storing, the pointed end should be down and the rounded end up.2. Do not wash soiled eggs, just wipe them with a clean cloth. So, buy only eggs with

clean shell.3. Keep in a refrigerator or in a cool place.4. Keep in a well-ventilated place. Eggs absorb the odor of the room or its surrounding

when this is in a closed place.

Uses of eggs in cooking:

1. To thicken soup or sauces.2. As binder, as in making embutido, torta or relleno.3. To lighten cakes and muffins.4. Improve the color of the baked food like bread.5. Used in making mayonnaise and for salads.6. As decorations for viands.

Health benefits from eggs in the diet:

1. Makes the muscles firm and the skin healthy.2. Adds red color to the blood.3. Gives clarity to the eyes.4. Hastens the growth of growing kids.5. Gives stamina for work or play.

Children, pregnant women or nursing mothers as well as the aged need at least an egg a day to meet the needs of the body. Those aged 20-59 needs only about half of this requirement.

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Other characteristics of eggs:

1. The color of the shell has nothing to do with the nutrients they provide.2. Balut contains more calcium and Vitamin A than ordinary eggs.3. Eggs give much cholesterol, but should not be skipped in the diet, at least every other

day.4. In cooking, put over low fire or moderate heat, as overcooking causes hardening.5. To remove the shell easily after cooking, put the boiled egg immediately in tap water

after removing from the fire. It is also in this way that the black rim around the yolk is avoided.

Source: FNRI (DOST)

MAYONNAISE

The basic ingredients for making mayonnaise are lemon juice or vinegar, salad oil or winterized oil not less than 65% or 2/3, egg yolk or whole egg, and sugar, salt and spices (paprika, mustard) and vetsin. However, substitutions may be made.

Materials:

1 cup lard (or cooking oil) 28°C1 egg yolk1½ tbsp. 4.5 vinegar (Del Monte)½ tsp. iodized salt1 tsp. white sugar

Procedure:

1. Separate yolk from the whole egg and place it in a clean and dry quart-sized bowl.2. Using a table fork, beat egg yolk rapidly and continuously until light yellow, for about

5 minutes.3. Add salt and beat well.4. Add oil (or lard) by drops, beating well after each addition until about 1/4 cup is used.5. Add ½ tsp. vinegar and beat well.6. Add lard alternately with the vinegar and beat vigorously after each addition. Increase

the amount of oil added by half tablespoon when the mayonnaise has already formed a stable emulsion.

7. Continuously beat the emulsion after all the oil (or lard) and vinegar have been added.8. Place the mayonnaise dressing in a sterile dry bottle (or jar) and seal tightly.9. Store in a screened cabinet at room temperature until use.

Source: CMU Journal of Agriculture Food and Nutrition Official Publication of CMU By Mercado & Notario

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BOOK II (back to main page)

Preserved Fresh Foods

Fruits and Vegetables Extend the Shell Life Of Fruits and VegetablesOther ways of Storing Fruits Preserved Tomatoes

and VegetablesPowdered Tomatoes Dehydrated CarrotDehydrated Bell Pepper Dehydrated CeleryRipening of fruits How to retard the ripening of fruitsRetard the ripening of Ehtrel:Ripen Bananas and Tomatoes

MangoesKakawate Leaves Ripen Saba Delaying the ripening of Banana in Malaysia

BananaRight Way of Storing Sweet Right Way of Harvesting Fruits

PotatoesRight Selection and Storage Extend the storage Life of Corn

of fruitsExtend the Storage Life of Rice

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

Extend the Shelf-life of Fruits and Vegetables

Procedure:

1. Place moist sawdust in a big basin or pail. Take care to remove sharp or pointed pieces in the sawdust that will hurt the fruits or vegetables as it is in this way that rotting caused by bacterial organisms start.

2. Place the fruits and vegetables in this pail and cover with moist sawdust again.3. Do not allow water to accumulate at the bottom of the pail. Within 11 days, the

fruits/vegetables will lose only 2% of their weight while in the usual way of storage, the total loss of weight is 10% within the same period of time.

Source: Philippine Farmers' Journal July-August 1983

Other Ways of Storing Fruits/Vegetables:

A. Moistened sawdust

1. Wash very well in water with chlorox -- 1 liter water for every tablespoon chlorox.2. If the sawdust has been used before, sterilize first by spreading under the sun.3. Remove all sharp pieces that might start bruising the fruits/vegetables.4. Moisten the sawdust and mix well -- 1 liter water for every kilo sawdust.5. Arrange the vegetables in the moist sawdust and store in a cool place.

B. Fresh Banana Leaves

1. Heat over the fire fresh banana leaves to prevent them from breaking apart.2. Wrap the vegetables in the leaves. Change the leaves when they crumple or lose the

ability to keep the vegetables fresh. Winged beans kept in this way stay fresh for about one and a half weeks, but if not stored in this way, last only three days.

C. Earthen pot

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1. Pour water over the covered pot, wet the sides very well. Repeat the process when the pot shows drying.

2. Place the pot on a basin or container with water at the bottom, but place a platform for the vegetables inside to keep from rotting because of wetness. Vegetables such as cabbage, tomatoes, beans, eggplant, and mangoes can last for a week if stored in this manner.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews April 1984

PRESERVE TOMATOES

Procedure:

1. Select tomatoes that are mature and ripe, but firm. Wash them very well.2. Dip in boiling water for about one half to one minute or steam for 2-3 minutes.3. Dip in tap water to remove the peel easily. Remove the core as well.4. Arrange the tomatoes in a jar compactly, but with a spare of about one centimeter

from the rim.5. Do not add water. Add in ½ teaspoon salt and 1/3 teaspoon lime in the jar.6. Remove the air from the jar -- place this in a casserole and heat at 77°C for about 15

minutes. The level of water should be only 2/3 of the height of the jar to prevent the water from entering the jar.

7. Close the jar well and boil in water for 35 minutes.8. Cool, store.

Source: FNRI (DOST)

EXTEND THE SHELF-LIFE OF TOMATOES

Research at the UPLB has shown that the ripening of tomatoes can be hastened or delayed:

1. Ripening can be hastened if the tomatoes are kept in DRY HULL ASH. This increases the ethylene gas which hastens ripening.

2. If this is placed in a cool place, it will have the red color of ripening.3. If tomatoes are kept in moist ash, this will neither hasten nor delay ripening, but the

ripening will be natural, and the tomatoes will be firm even if ripe, better than if stored in dry ash.

Source: Farming Today July 1983

POWDERED TOMATOES

Procedure:

1. Dip the tomatoes in boiling water for a minute.2. Dip in 500 ppm solution of sodium metabisulfite for 2 minutes.3. Dry in the oven at 54°C for 9 hours or until its moisture goes down to 7.5%.4. Pulverize the dried tomatoes in a pestle.

The resulting product is red in color and smells and tastes like fresh tomatoes. To cook, mix with water as needed.

Source: Selected R&D Completed Projects, NSTA 1982DEHYDRATED CARROT

Carrot is rich in Vitamins A and C. It is good to store it during its abundance so as to make it available during scarcity.

Materials:

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Carrots -- mature, bright colored, freshStarch flour -- 4 tbsp. in 4 cups water (stir continually while heating)Plastic bags

Procedure:

1. Wash carrots very well, slice into 4 x 10 x 10 mm. sizes.2. Arrange on a sinamay or nylon cloth and dip in boiling water for 3 minutes.3. Dip the carrots in the cooked starch for one minute.4. Drain and arrange on a tray.5. Dry in the oven at 60°C-65°C for 7-8 hours or under the sun until no juice can be

extracted when pressed. If the carrots will be dried in the sun, do not expose them directly. Put them inside a box with holes at the 4 sides. Cover the top of the box with black or dark cloth or plastic sheet.

6. When dried, pack in plastic bags and seal.7. To reuse soak 1/4 cup carrots in a cup of warm water for half an hour.8. Cook in the usual way like fresh carrots.

Source: FNRI, Oct. 1989 Reprint

DEHYDRATE BELL PEPPER

Procedure:

1. Select fresh, mature green pepper with deep green color. Wash them very well in running water.

2. Cut in halves, remove seeds, placenta and stems.3. Slice into 2 cm. size thick before blanching.4. Spread on a sinamay or nylon cloth (not thicker than 2 cm.) before steaming.5. Dip in 5% salt solution for 30 minutes.6. Blanch steam for 2 minutes.7. Dry at a 60°C-65°C for 7-8 hours.8. Pack in plastic bags.

DEHYDRATED CELERY

Procedure:

1. Select green, fresh celery with fleshy stalks.2. Cut into 3/4 cm. cubes and the leafy parts 3 cm. long.3. Spread on wide nylon or sinamay basket about 2½ cm. thick before blanching.4. Steam blanch for one minute.5. Soak in 0.05% lime (calcium chloride) for 5 minutes.6. Dip in boiling 0.2% sodium metabisulfite solution for 2 minutes.7. Dry at 60°C-65°C for 6-7 hours.8. Pack in plastic bags and seal.

Source: Selected R&D Completed Projects, NSTA

RIPENING OF FRUITS

One of the ways to hasten the ripening of fruits is by the RIGHT USE of calcium carbide. The fruits must be in a box with the right temperature and right humidity. The wrong use of calcium carbide for artificial ripening of fruits is by wrapping the calcium carbide in paper and putting it among the fruits. This burns (hurts) the fruits.

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When the fruit is mature and made to ripen artificially, its ripening is no different from natural ripening, both in quality and in taste. And if calcium carbide is placed properly, the color of the fruit is stronger and the shriveling of its skin or peeling is delayed. What hastens the ripening of the fruit is the ethylene gas that emanates from the calcium carbide, and not the calcium carbide itself. Ethylene gas is not poison to humans and gives no damaging effects.

Source: Philippine Farmers Journal Nov.-Dec. 1983

HOW TO RETARD THE RIPENING OF FRUITS

According to researchers at the UP Los Baños, the ripening of fruits can be delayed from one to two weeks under the following conditions.

1. Don't pick the fruits very soon. Trees have a natural way of retarding the ripening of fruits.

2. Take care not to bruise the fruits in picking, transporting or changing containers. It is in these ways that microorganisms enter the fruits and causes rotting to start and lose weight.

3. Ripe fruits give off ethylene, a kind of gas that hastens ripening. Don't put together ripe and raw fruits.

4. Don't put together healthy and non-healthy fruits. Non-healthy fruits give off much ethylene.

5. Don't expose the fruits in the sun. This hastens ripening.6. Keep the fruits away from heat given off by motor or machine. They also give off

ethylene gas.7. Ripening is slow in low temperatures. If no refrigerator is available, put the fruits in

the coolest possible place.8. If a refrigerator is available, put the fruits in a plastic bag with small holes.9. Put charcoal soaked in potassium permanganate or small pieces of cement or perlite in

containers with fruits.

Source: Farming Today April 1982

RETARD THE RIPENING OF MANGOES (Hot Water Treatment)

Hot water treatment (HWT) retards the ripening of mangoes without affecting its taste; makes the color of ripening brighter and evenly, and does not require the use of pesticides chemicals because the fruits are not infected by bacteria or pests.

Procedure:

1. Prepare two containers of hot water. This may be half of a drum or similar, according to the quantity of mangoes to be treated. One drum that contains hot water will be for immersing the mangoes, and the other will be for maintaining the heat of the water used for immersing.

2. The heat of the water should be within 52°C-55°C range. To maintain this heat, it is necessary to use a bulb thermometer.

3. Immerse soonest the newly harvested mature mangoes for 10 minutes.4. Cool the mangoes in running water after immersing.5. Air dry the mangoes before storing in container.

Source: PCARRD-DA Farmnews Mar.-Apr. 1991

ETHREL: RIPENS BANANAS AND TOMATOES

Fruits must be picked when immature because they will not ripen naturally. However, there are instances when this is inevitable, such as during a storm or unavoidable

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circumstances. Researchers were conducted at UP Los Baños have shown that immature fruits can somehow be made to ripen with the aid of a chemical, ETHREL.

Procedure:

Bananas

1. Fill with water up to ½ a kerosene can (balde). Dissolve 10 tbsp. ethrel in this water.2. Pour more water gradually until the can is full (19 liters) and stir well while pouring.3. Transfer one-half of this to another container.4. Immerse the bananas in the mixture for 5 minutes, then let it dry in the air. These will

ripen in 5 days.5. If the mixture will be used again cover it and store in a cool place.

This can be used up to 15 days provided the fruits being immersed are clean and dry before they are immersed.

It was seen by the researchers that if the fruits are immersed in ethrel on the fourth to the seventh day (4th-7th) after harvest, the bananas ripen in 2-3 days.

Tomatoes

1. For immature tomatoes, 90% of 21 day-old fruits ripen in 10 days after putting them in ethrel. Some of these did not turn red.

2. If the ethrel solution is weak, tomatoes do not ripen well.3. If the tomatoes are less than 21 days tomatoes are not edible.

Calcium chloride and ethrel:

Less ethrel is needed to ripen bananas, compared to calcium carbide. It requires 20 grams carbide for every liter of water.

Source: Agricultural & Industrial Life

KAKAWATE LEAVES RIPEN SABA BANANAS

Studies made at the UP Los Baños showed that when raw saba bananas are put in kakawate leaves, its ripening is hastened.

This is because the kakawate leaves emit bioethylene, a gas that ripens fruits. It was also seen that when bananas are ripened with kakawate leaves, the weight loss is only 5%, while those not treated loses 19% of its weight within 6 days.

Procedure:

Stack the banana bunches with kakawate leaves alternately. Source: PCARRD (DOST)

DELAYING THE RIPENING OF BANANAS IN MALAYSIA

Researchers at the Malaysia University and of the Malaysia Agricultural Research and Development Institute have a way of delaying the ripening of bananas. This is not their present method of wrapping the fruits in a bag with polythene – this is good only until 11 days. The new method is by the use of the chemical, BYNONYL, used to combat, molds, but is not harmful to humans. They tried this on raw bananas called "pisaang emas." This method reduced the growth of molds and retards ripening besides improving the quality of the fruits.

Procedure:

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1. Pack and seal the bananas in an air tight bag with bynonyl.2. When the packing is removed, keep the fruits in temperature at 15°C. It is only then

that the fruits will start to ripen normally.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews August 1987

RIGHT WAY OF STORING SWEET POTATOES

Sweet potatoes or kamote can last up to 2-3 months if harvested and stored properly.

Procedure:

1. When harvesting, use a container that can take only what is accomodated to avoid falling off and having bruises. It is in getting hurt that rotting of fruits begin.

2. Avoid using sacks for this reason.3. The storage should be near the place of harvest or near the place of transport.4. In places of storage, use bamboo, kogon grass or leaves of coconut as roof or walls.

RIGHT WAY OF HARVESTING FRUITS

1. Harvest fruits at the right season of maturity.

For example:

Mangoes: 82 days from flowering and bearing fruit. When the fruits that are exposed are immersed in water, these grow further and become more darkly or strongly colored than those hidden (which grow slowly).

Tomatoes -- if to be transported far -- harvest when the end of the flower becomes pinkish, which are formerly green; if to be transported nearby-harvest them when the fruits are colored orange.

2. Mango and Citrus:pick the fruits with all care.Avoid excessive stain or sap on the skin, if they are to be harvested at the last hours of the morning or before 3:00 p.m.

Sweet corn: pick early to retain its sweetness. When harvested late in the morning, its sugar turns into carbohydrates.

3. Arrange properly in containers to avoid bruises or crushing, and to allow free circulation of air in containers. Use old newspapers, thin polyethene or plastic bubbles sheets as lining at the bottom of containers.

4. Transport quickly and carefully. Inset potassium permanganate in the container. This is dissolved and made to be absorbed by perlite blocks which in turn will absorb the ethylene emitted by the fruits.

Perlite blocks

-- 1 part cement-- 4 parts perlite beadswater to make thin paste

a. Allow this to dry and harden in 36 hours.b. Cut in small pieces depending on use.

RIGHT SELECTION AND STORAGE OF FRUITS

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Bananas -- good, mature bananas are rounded, have no sharp edges. It can withstand only up to 14°C storage.

Caimito -- the green variety is sweeter than the purple ones. Choose slightly soft fruits (Hard caimito will not ripen). It can be stored at 7°C temperature.

Mango -- good mango of any variety has full "cheeks" and slightly yellow at the base (near the stem). Avoid sick, bruised mangoes or those with hard lumps. Keep in a cool place.

Melon -- mature melon is sweet. The peel is yellow and a little soft near the stem. It cannot stand very cold temperature. Immature ones are not sweet and will not ripen.

Papaya -- good papaya has streaks of yellow at the base and has deep lines lengthwise. It can be stored at 10°C.

Watermelon -- mature fruits are whitish to yellowish; it gives off a dull sound when knocked (filliped) with the thumb and index finger. Immature fruits give off a metallic sound when filliped. They will not ripen and are not sweet. It can be stored at 5°C.

Source: Agricultural & Industrial Life, 1990

EXTEND THE STORAGE LIFE OF CORN

Weevils and mildew are the usual enemies of corn in storage. The grains attacked by these do not germinate.

One way of extending the storage life of corn is by:

1. Drying the grains of corn until moisture is reduced to 10%.2. Put them in a can (5 gal. capacity) without leaks or hole.3. Dry about 2 kilos charcoal (up to 4%-5% moisture) and pulverize.4. Place the powdered charcoal at the bottom of the can; put a cardboard perforated with

holes on top of the charcoal.5. Put the grains of corn on the cardboard. They can accomodate about 6 kilos grains.6. Close the can and seal with glue around the cover to keep air from entering and thus

damage the grains.

To prepare glue:

Put 1 part pomade or grease in 1 part powdered clay or lime

If there are weevils present in the grains inside the can, the carbon dioxide that will emanate from the grains will kill them.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews October 31, 1985

EXTEND THE STORAGE LIFE OR RICE

Rice can be stored without using pesticides. Instead, carbon dioxide which is not poison, is used as fumigant. Pesticides don't really control the insects in the rice sack as the spraying does not penetrate the interior of the sack.

Thus, the pests in the middle part of the sack can keep on multiplying. And pesticides leave residues that are harmful to humans.

Procedure:

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1. Pack carbon dioxide in a plastic bag and seal.2. Put this bag in the sack of rice. Rice can be stored for as long as 15 months and still

retain its good quality.Source: PCARRD Farmnews December 1988

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BOOK II (back to main page)

Fish and Marine Products, Meat

Signs of Freshness in Fish and Marine ProductsExtend the Shell Life Of FishPreserved Fish even without IcePreserved ShrimpsPreserved TilapiaImproved Way of Preserving Shrimp Cake(Alamang)Fish QuekiamFish FrankfurterCanning of BangusFish BurgerFish KropeckSardinesSausage Casings

SIGNS OF FRESHNESS IN FISH AND MARINE PRODUCTS

Fish

1. The skin is glossy and tight.2. The gills are red (although artificial coloring can be done to imitate freshness).3. The eyes are clear and shallow, not reddish or sunken.4. The body is firm, not soft.5. The smell is not fishy.6. The intestines are intact and whole.7. The body is slippery with saliva.

Shells and Crustaceans

1. The shell is closed.2. The smell is clean and not offensive.

Crabs

1. Appearance is heavier than they actually seem.2. Firm in texture and the legs are intact, not loose or dangling.

Shrimps

1. The smell is not offensive.2. The shell or skin is tight and firm.Source: FNRI 1982

EXTEND THE SHELFLIFE OF FISH

The freshness of fish can be seen through its external appearance and odor, and in a chemical analysis. Besides the mudfish and catfish, all fishes stop breathing the moment they are removed from the water, especially sea fishes.

Our fish products are in demand abroad, but they cannot pass the rigid quality control imposed by importing countries because of our faulty way of freezing, and so we export only dried and smoked fish. The decay of fish is caused by bacteria and enzymes that are outside the fish, not within the flesh of the fish. These are in the water, the slimy substance around the fish, in the gills and internal organs. For example, the tuna that

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comes from Mindanao carries with it 18 kinds of micro-organism in every gram of its shell/skin; the oysters caught in Manila Bay contains thousands of this in every gram.

Thus, to delay the decay of fish, remove the gills and internal organs and wash very well to remove the slimy substance.

In freezing, temperatures between 0°C-3.89°C causes crystal iciness in the muscles. If the fish is placed at 0°C as soon as this is removed from the water it will last for 7 days. The faster the muscles become icy and the smaller that ice crystals that are formed in the muscles, the longer the good taste or quality remains. This is "quick freezing." The temperature must be reduced to -3.89°C from 0°C for not more than 2 hours for quick freezing. If it gets longer than 2 hours to have crystals in the flesh, this is "slow freezing" which is the usual way of freezing in domestic refrigerators.

Fish contains 15%-25% protein that has all the amino acids as in beef or chicken meat.

Source: "Milkfish as Food" NSTA 1978

PRESERVE FISH EVEN WITHOUT ICE

It has been tested and found acceptable in India to preserve fish using certain preservatives.

Procedure:

1. Clean the fish very well -- remove scales, gills, internal organs.2. Slice.3. Soak in the following solution:

a) 8% salt -- boil for a few minutes and cool; add: 0.5% potassium sorbate and, 0.25% sodium benzoate. The fish put in this solution lasts for 72 hours.

b) 8% salt -- boil the solution and cool, add:0.5% potassium sorbate and0.1% sodium bisulphite0.25% sodium benzoate

The taste of fish preserved in this solution tastes better on the 48th hour, and lasts as long as the fish in solution (a). Wash and drain for 10 minutes before cooking.

Source: Fishery Technology January 1988

PRESERVED SHRIMPS

Materials:

Sodium bisulfite -- 1 1/4%Water -- 98.34%

Mix the above. Put in the shrimps here then drain;

Source: Chemical Formulary (Bennet) Vol. 23

PRESERVED TILAPIA

Materials:

rice (cooked)angkak

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Utensils:

knifejar with a big mouth (sterilized)or put in the sun

Procedure:

1. Slice the fish on its back.2. Remove the gills, internal organs, blood. Wash very well.3. Cook 2 cups rice in 4-5 cups water; cool.4. Refine the angkak and mix it with the cooked rice.5. Spread thin the rice with angkak at the bottom of the container and arrange the tilapia

over it alternately.6. Cover with a thick rice spread over the fish.7. Close the container tight, allow to ferment in 3 weeks.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews October 31, 1985

IMPROVED WAY OF PRESERVING SHRIMP CAKE (Alamang)

1. Use only fresh shrimps, wash very well.2. If gathering is made from the sea, put the shrimps in a basket and dip several times in

the water to remove all dirt. Remove stones, fish, shells, and whatever else that might affect the taste and aroma of the shrimp cake. Avoid handling to prevent growth of microorganisms.

3. Drying:

a. Drain the shrimps and spread over a mat under the sun for 3-5 hours.b. The mat should be on an elevated place to keep from dust and intrusion of stray

animals.c. Keep flies away.d. Drying can also be done in an oven.

Pounding:

Pound the dried shrimps in a clean pestle until fine and sticky (about 5 minutes).

Storing:

Wrap the shrimps in a bag and let it stay overnight.

Molding:

On the following day, mold into small cakes manually.

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Drying:

Put under the sun for 2 hours to reduce moisture down to 39%.

Pounding:

Pound the shrimps in the pestle until fine.

Molding:

Mold the dried shrimps like balls, about one kilo each.

Cooling -- allow the shrimp balls to cool at room temperature until dry.Packing -- use banana leaves for wrapping or polyethylene bags (plastic bags).

If properly done, dried shrimp cakes can last up to two years in storage.

Source: Farmnews February 1989

FISH QUEKIAM

Materials:

½ kilo dalagang bukid1 egg well-beaten1/4 kilo shelled shrimps½ cup chopped turnip½ cup chopped onions½ cup chopped celery½ cup chopped cararot½ cup flour1/4 cup nguyong powder½ tsp. pepper1½ tsp. salt3 pcs. taupe (wrapper)

Procedure:

1. Remove all bones and skin from the fish.2. Grind together with the shrimps.3. Mix all ingredients and steam for 20 minutes.4. Wrap in taupe or aluminum foil.5. Fry in hot lard.6. Slice in desired sizes.

Sweet sour sauce:

3/4 cup water1 tbsp. cornstarch3/4 cup sugar1 tbsp. vinegar2 tbsp. soy saucevetsin

Mix all together and heat until the desired thickness. Source: Fisheries Newsletter Oct. 18-24, 1981

FISH FRANKFURTER

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Materials:

1 1/4 kilo fish meat (labahita)1/4 kilo pork fata23 gms. salt4 gms. accord powder (binder)12 gms. frankfurter seasoning5.5 gms. prague powder (available at ITDI, DOST)12.5 gms. sugar½ kilo ice.

Procedure:

1. Separately grind the pork and fish meat.2. Add salt and seasoning to the fish.3. Add the ice and keep on mixing and cutting the mixture.4. Add the frankfurter seasoning, fat, sugar and the rest of ice.5. Mix well until fine.6. Stuff into the sausage casing about 10 cm. long each.7. Smoke for about one-half hour at 71°C-75°C.8. Dip in hot water (about 73°C for 10 minutes).9. Remove the casing.10. Pack in plastic bag and freeze.

Note: guava leaves are good for smoking.

Source: Fisheries Newsletter August 18-24, 1981

CANNING OF BANGUS

One way of preserving bangus or any fish is by canning. But since not all have a pressure cooker and the use of tin cans needs a special sealer, it is possible to "can" or preserve fish in the following manner:

Procedure:

1. Select fresh bangus (or any fish) for preserving.2. Remove the scales, internal organs, fins, and tail.3. Wash very well; soak in salt water to remove the remaining blood and make the flesh

white and firm. Before preserving, the fish may be steamed, smoked, dried in the sun, fried, salted or ground.

4. In putting in the jar, leave about 4-5 cm. space from the rim before closing.5. Remove air by putting the jar in water boiling at 82°C (steam).6. Close the jar. Put a rubber sealer around the cap.7. Boil at 115°C-121°C (or at 10-15 pressure per sq.in. if in pressure cooker).8. Let it cool by itself.

Source: Milkfish as Food NSTA

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FISH BURGER

Materials:

1 kilo fish meat3 tsp. salt2 tsp. pepper2 eggs1 cup chopped onions2 tbsp. milk powderor 4 tbsp. evap. milk1 tsp. hamburger seasoning oil for frying

Procedure:

1. Mix all ingredients together.2. Make balls, flatten the balls, fry.

Source: Fisheries Newsletter Oct. 16-24, 1981

FISH KROPECK (Fish Protein Concentrate (FPC))

Materials:

2 cups corn floura little vetsinflour4 tbsp. powdered fish (FPC)4 cups water2 tsp. salt1 cup cooking oil1½ tsp. fine pepper

Procedure:

1. Mix well together in 4 cups water: the fish powder, cornstarch, salt, pepper, flour, vetsin.

2. Use a tray that can be heated. Line this with oil.3. Spread on the tray about 3 tbsp. of the mixture, about ½ cm. thick.4. Steam this for two minutes.5. Slice the steamed mixture into desired sizes.6. Arrange on a tray and dry in the sun or in a solar dried for one or two days.7. Deep fry in oil.8. Drain, cool, seal in plastic bag.

Source: NSDB Appropriate Technology Series 27

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SARDINES

Materials:

100 grams size bangus½ teaspoon salt2 tbsp. cooking oil½ tsp. vetsin4 tbsp. tomato sauce2 slices bell pepper

Procedure:

1. Remove the fish scales, gills and internal organs, fins, tail, and the black lining in the belly.

2. Wash very well and drain.3. Slice according to the size of the can, and arrange the pieces inside the can.4. Steam the can for 20 minutes to remove the moisture in the fish.5. Remove all moisture from the can, put in the tomato sauce and all other ingredients.6. Seal the can and heat at 115.6°C for one and a half hours.7. To avoid overcooking, put the can immediately in running water after cooking.8. Wipe clean the cooled can. The viscerals removed from the fish can be used as fish

concentrate when dried and powdered, and for fish curls.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews January 1984

SAUSAGE CASINGS

The usual materials for sausauge casing is the intestine of the slaughtered hog, sheep or cow. The intestine are lined up with five layers from within, such as:

1. Mucosa or lining of mucosa or saliva composed of cells that aid in digestion, absorption and circulation of substances to the various parts of the body.

2. Submucosa -- nerves and fibers with fatty tissues in them. These are rich in collagen, the chief material in casing.

3. Smooth muscles that surround the intestine.4. Layer of fibers.5. Serosa (outermost layer), composed of thin elastic fibers.

Cow serosa is thicker than hog serosa.

Procedure:

Carefully pull the intestines from the slaughtered animal.

Fat removal:

Carefully scrape the fact with a knife. Remove all fat as much as possible because this will cause rancidity in the casings. This fat can be used for cooking. When pulling the intestines from the slaughtered pig or sheep, remove as well the adhering hairs, from the intestines. If it will facilitate, the intestines can be cut in pieces according to need.

Removal of other materials:

This can be done manually carefully or by means of a water hose for cleaning as well.

Removal of slimy substance:

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The removal of slime depends on the kind and size of the intestine. It may be cleansed by passing the intestine under a roller, or by scraping it to remove the serosa. Bigger intestines are flushed with water or turned inside out. After cleaning, soak the casing overnight in strong salt solution.

Grading and Storing:

The grading of casings is according to class, size and quality. The higher quality (or export quality in the U.S.) is that which is free from defects like holes, bruises or warts. After grading this is pumped with air or with water to enable the measuring of the circumference. Hog and sheep casings are marketed in lengths of 90 meters more or less, and those of cow's by 30 meters. After grading, these are salted with fine salt and stored further, and drained if wet.

After draining, it is further shaken to remove any remaining water and salted again if necessary.

Storage:

Casings packed in salt get deteriorated too. These have to be put in 4°C temperature, but freezing must be avoided, as it could cause cracks that will be the start for the growth of molds. Avoid also the growth of red molds that thrive on salt. This will cause the decay of the casings.

Other Casings:

1. Cow bladder -- after cleaning, air dry them. When dry, they are ready for marketing.2. Hog or sheep intestine parts -- these are joined together into various shapes. To make

the edges adhere together, these are passed through heat and then joined together.3. When cool and dry, they are packed and are ready for marketing.

Source: Edible Meat By-Products by Pearson and Dutson.

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BOOK III (back to main page)

Short-Term PlantsWatermelon

ArrowrootPepper

MushroomPotatoes

Sweet PotatoPatola

CarrotCucumber

CasavaGrow Bigger Bananas

SeaweedsChayote

RadishBell Pepper

SesameWheat

GingerSoybeans

Young CornYam

PeanutsFarming In Basket

ARROWROOT (URARO)

The arrowroot, a rootcrop, grows in any kind of soil, but it prefers a somewhat shaded area such as that under coconut trees, and where rainfall is even the whole year round.

Its roots can withstand typhoons and may be left in the ground for a long time. It will grow from any small piece of its root crop left in the soil. Arrowroot is

ready to harvest ten months after planting. In ordinary soil, it can harvest about 18 tons per hectare. However, it was proven that if the soil is fertilized with 90 kilos nitrogen per hectare, the harvest can go up as high as 18 tons per hectare. When the fertilizer was doubled, the harvest reached 27 tons per hectare.

Uses of the arrowroot plant

The arrowroot is used as food for both man and animal, and as materials in the manufacture of medicines as well as in industry, such as:

1. flour from arrowroot is used for baking first class biscuits.2. for thickening ice cream.3. like corn, it may be broiled and eaten.4. as poultry feed, it can substitute for 25% yellow corn.5. its stem, leaves and wastes are feed for ruminants (cow, goats, carabao).

Source: Greenfields August 1990

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HOW TO GROW MUSHROOMS

Materials:

hoe for tilling the soilstringbamboo or wooden stand or benchrice strawurea fertilizer: 1-½tsp./gallon waternewspaper for wetting

Procedure:

1. Till an area about 4 meters long, one-half meter wide and 15 cm deep.2. Dig a canal around this, about 30 cm wide and 15 cm deep.3. Dry the straw very well, tie in bundles about 8 cm thick.4. Cut the bundles of straw in same lengths, evenly.5. Soak the bundles of straw in water for four hours.6. Put the bamboo bench over the tilled soil. Spread the bundles of straw on the bench,

alternately arranging them in the first layer, all heads to the left in the next layer, all heads to the right, etc. up to the fourth layer.

7. Crumple the newspaper and soak in the four liters water with 3 gms urea (3 gms urea or 1½ tsp.).

8. On thumbsized pieces of newspaper, plant the mycelium (mushroom seeds). About three bottles of mycelium will be consumed for every 4 meters' bed with six layers.

9. Plant the wet paper with mycelium 5 cm deep into the layers of straw about 5-8 cm away from the edge and 10 cm from each other.

10. After 5-7 days, cover the top of the pile with a clear plastic sheet like a roof resting on the bamboo, to maintain the 40%-50% heat that is just right for mushroom growth.

11. Sprinkle water 5-6 days after this preparation. Fill the canals around with water to repel the insects and to maintain the right humidity. Stack up only until four layers during Summer and 6 layers during the rainy season.

12. Don't water after this. On the 6 or 7 day if the weather is dry, water gently, using a sprinkler. Repeat if necessary.

Harvesting Mushrooms

1. If the mushrooms are now umbrella-like, 10-14 days after planting, they may be harvested. These will wilt in 24 hours. The closed ones or button-like last up to 48 hours.

2. Don't use scissors in harvesting because the parts that remain in the straw will rot. Carefully twist the lower stem with your fingers so as to get it whole.

3. Spread the harvested mushroom on a basket for selection. Wash gently if these will be cooked soon.

4. Let the straw bed rest for 7-10 days. In one area 4 meters and with six layers of straw, about seven kilos of buttons or 12½ kilos umbrella mushroom can be harvested.

Source: PCARRD Monitor Jan 1984

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SWEET POTATO

Bountiful Harvest for Sweet Potato

There is one way of planting sweet potato (camote) that has been tried that can make it yield 20% more than the ordinary way of planting. In the manner tried, the stems to be planted are taken from healthy plants, two to three months old.The cut stems to be planted are watered first, then covered with a plastic sheet for two days When ready for planting, the stems will have developed small roots which will hasten the growth of the new plant.

It is advised by a Puerto Rican researcher not to remove the leaves before planting, as this will reduce the roots that will eventually become crops.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews (Carribbean Farm News) December 1986Right Way of Harvesting Sweet Potato

Sweet potatoes can be harvested about 3 1/2 - 4 months after planting. If the harvesting is made too early or too late, only a few crops are harvested and the quality is not good. The over matured ones are fibrous and rot easily.

Don't harvest sweet potato after a rain or when the ground is wet because the fruit contains much water then, which will make it rot easily. Besides, it is harder to gather and clean the crops when the soil is muddy it is easy to harvest when the soil is dry.

Procedure in harvesting:

Cut the vine first, roll it over to one side and plow the beds to bring out the crops. If the harvesting is done manually, don't use pointed metal instruments but only

wooden tools with a pointed end so as not to hurt the crop. Carefully cut the vine in separating the crop so as not to hurt the crop. Cut the vine closest to the crop. Don't pile up the crops so as not bruise them. Don't leave the newly harvested crops exposed in the sun. This will make them dry up

and shrivel. Put the crops under the shade.

Right Way of Storing Sweet Potato

Sweet potatoes will last 2-3 months when properly harvested.

Procedure:

Use a right sized basket to contain the harvest of sweet potato - not overflowing so as not to bruise them. It is in bruises and hurts that rotting starts.

Because of this, don't use sacks for storing. The storage place must be nearest to your house or the farm or wherever the crops

will be transported with facility. Use bamboo, cogon or coconut leaves for roofing and sawali for walls in storage

places.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews April 1998

CARROT

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The carrot is one of the principal vegetables in the market for its rich content of carotene, Vitamins C and B besides calcium iron and phosphorus. This may be eaten cooked or raw. In other countries, the carrot is also used as medicine.

In Mexico, carrot is boiled in milk to give relief against cough and painful chest. In Europe, boiled carrot is known for its cure for jaundice. And if eaten raw, it drives out intestinal parasites.

Manner of Planting

In the Philippines, carrot grows in high altitudes. It likes fertile, loose soil that does not retain water. It dislikes sea water and hardly grows in soil with a high boron content.

The land for planting carrot must be prepared -- fine and not in clumps.Holes for sowing the seeds must be about 2 cm, and 20 cm apart.The seeds are sown directly on the ground.After sowing the seeds, cover them with fine soil. They will germinate within 3 weeks

after planting. Good planting time is between October-December where there is rain.Don't plant in areas where water stays because this will cause the roots and fruit to rot.

But the plant also needs watering while it grows to make the fruit well developed.The best fertilizer is compost, but if chemical fertilizers will be used, it is recommended

that NPK 90+170+90 be broadcast over the field for every hectare before planting, and during rainy days.

Do the same during dry weather.In planting, apply half of the nitrogen and all of the phosphorus and potassium on the soil.

Apply the remaining half 4-6 weeks after planting. If animal manure will be used, apply 8-10 tons per hectare, and supplement with complete fertilizer.

Reduce the leaves when the plants are 15 cm high and already sturdy.Put thin soil at the base of the plant to prevent the greening of the shoulder of the crop.

Pest

The most common enemy of the carrot is the larvae that eats the leaves. Spray this with tercyl.

The disease of the leaves can be controlled if there is crop rotation in its place, the field is cultured, and sprayed with Parafungus or Fugitox. Avoid the bruising of the roots so as to prevent rotting.

Harvesting

According to kind, carrot may be harvested from 3 to 6 months after planting. By digging a little beneath the plant, the size or growth of the growing carrot can be seen. In harvesting, remove only the dried leaves. The young end roots hasten drying up, so these must be removed. Source: Greenfields December 1990

CASSAVA

Cassava can be a long term plant, from six months to two years depending upon the use it is intended for. Although this grows anywhere that the soil is loose and not water logging, and rich, farmers do not care much for it. Many are still unaware that besides being second to rice among crops, cassava is valuable in industry. From cassava, alcohol, glucose, solvents explosives, animal feed, fertilizers, energy and others are derived.

There are many kinds of cassava that are well adapted to our climate, but only four of these are common because of their low hydrocyanic acid content. There are Golden

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Yellow, Katabang, Macan and Brasil. Two others used in the manufacture of starch are the Hawaiian 5 and Java Brown. The Mandioca Sao Pedro Preto is not edible because of its high poison content.

Planting

Cassava may be planted at any season, but it is better if the soil is always wet in the first 4-5 weeks after planting.

The stem to be planted must be from a matured plant, about a year old, 25 cm long with 5-7 nodes from the bottom stem. The thickness of the stem must not be smaller than half of the fattest part of the stem from where it is cut. If the stem is smaller than this, it will not have much nutrient content with which to start the new plant, so the roots and growths will be small.

Cut the stem crosswise with a sharp bolo. Avoid bruises and breaks, and plant within the week when the stems are cut. The stems to be planted can last up to 10 days if these are wrapped in a wet cloth or sack and placed in any airy and shady place. If it is not possible to plant immediately, these will still grow within a month if it is sprayed with any of the following before storage: Orthocide or Daconil, Manzate, Dithane, Demosan, Brassicol, Visigran, or Agallol. It should be stored in a shady, humid or cool place with temperature between 20-30°C.

Land Preparation

Like any land preparation for planting, plow the land to remove weeds and grasses. Let it stand for a week to allow the remaining weeds to grow, then plow again. Let it stand for another week and plow for the third time.

Make hills about 75 cm apart from one another, depending on the kind to be planted.With the help of a pointed stick, make a hole about 18 cm deep in each hill where the

stems are to be planted, one in each hole.Plant early in the morning or late afternoons during summer or any time when the sun is

cool.

Three methods of planting cassava

a. horizontal -- during summer so that the plant will be kept moist. b. vertical -- during rainy days so that it will not rot if constantly wet. c. slanting -- between the two seasons mentioned.

In planting, unless the stem is horizontal, bury 3/4 of the stem in the soil, and cover the 1/4 with 10 cm fine soil.

After a month, other short term crops may be planted in between the cassava plants. But if the other plants will be as high as the cassava as they grow, they can be planted at the same time.

When applying fetilizers for a second time, hill up around the plants, as in corn fertilizing.Cassava needs watering, especially in the first two months of its growth, when the root

crop is beginning to grow.a. b. c. Fertilizer d. e. As much as possible, the soil where the cassava is to be planted should be

analyzed at the Bureau of Soils. However, if this is not possible, the following may be used:

f. g. +100+120 NPK mix or about 222 kg urea 45-0-0h. 500 kg solophos (0-20-0)

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i. 200 kg muriate of potash (0-0-60)j. k. Apply half of the N.P.K. on planting and the remaining half about two months

afterwards.l. Always remove the weeds, but when the plants are two months old, don't till

any more because the growing roots (fruits) could be hurt. About three months after planting, gramoxone herbicide could be used to control weeds.

m. n. Pests o. p. Malathion or Servin may be sprayed on insects pests, but the bigger enemies

are the rats and pigs. To control the yellowing and eventual falling of leaves, spray demothoate 3 spoons for every (kerosene) can of water, or follow the instructions on the label.

q. r. Spray every 2-4 weeks. But the best measure against insect pests are the

natural pesticides like the mixture of wild pepper, makabuhay and the like.s. t. Harvest u. v. Cassava may be harvested 10-14 months after planting. Try first a few roots'.

If the rest of the crops don't grow any more, then it is time to harvest. Plow the field or carefully pull up the crops manually. Cassava is sold fresh or dried as flakes. Wash well, peel and shred, then dry.

w. x. Source: Greenfields November 1982y. z. Harvest and Storage of Cassava aa. bb. Cassava is ready for harvest from six to seven months after planting. This is

sweet if harvested at the right age, but premature, it is tasteless and rots easily. When over mature, it will have harbored mold (bukbok) and/or will be eaten by pests, and the fibers will be tough.

cc. 1. Don't harvest just after a rain or when the soil is wet. The crops will rot easily and it

will be difficult to clean off the soil around it.If the soil is compact, loosen it first with a pointed wooden stick, not metal, so as not to bruise, or hurt the crop.Pull up the whole plant gently, with all its root crop. Don't drag so as not to bruise, which will cause the start of rotting.In separating the crop from the stem, don't just break it off. Use a sharp knife for cutting closest to the stem.Don't leave the crops exposed under the sun but in the shade.Separate the small ones from the large ones, and the damage from the undamaged or unhurt. Cook soon those with damage or bruises as these will be the first to rot, or use the damaged crops and the small ones as animal feed. The good ones and matured may be stored or sold.

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Storage

There are two easy of storing cassava that enables it to last 3-4 months. This is by keeping them in a hole in the ground, or by storing the crops in a wooden box. In transporting the crops from the field to the storage place, put them in a firm container (like a basket not sack) so as to avoid bruises that will eventually cause rotting.

A. Storage in the Ground

In an elevated and shady place, where one side is lower than the other and does not log water, dig a hole about 30-40 cm deep, one meter long (or depending on the amount of crops to be stored), and about one meter wide. This can contain about 75 kilos of crops.Digging should be downward. At the end of the down end, make a canal about 20 cm wide crosswise and deeper by about 7 cm than the big hole, where the water will run when it rains.Arrange the mature crops and without bruises in the hole.Cover with soil (better if sand) every layer.If sand is not available, clay may be used, but not very wet, because this will hasten the rotting of the stored crops.

B. Storage in a Wooden Box

The storage box must be made of wood, about one-half meter wide, 60 cm long and 30 cm high. This can accommodate about 20 kg of cassava packed in sand or wood shavings. The box must have its own cover.Fill the bottom of the box with 3 cm thick moist (not wet) sand or wood shavings.Arrange the crops one beside the other and cover with moist sand or wood shavings.After each layer of crops, cover with sand or shavings.Cover the last layer with about 8-9 cm thick of same before putting on the lid.Store the box with cassava in a cool and dry place.Do not place directly on the ground, and stack up alternately so as to allow circulation of air between them. This manner of storage will keep the crops up to 3 months.

Source: PRIS Extension Bulletin, Dept. of Agriculture No. 1 English 1986

WHEN IS CASSAVA POISONOUS?

There are two kinds of cassava: the sweet and the bitter kinds. The ordinary kind sold in the market is the sweet kind, and the one made into laundry starch is the bitter kind.

The manner of planting, whether horizontal or upside down has nothing to do with its poison. Cassava naturally contains hydrocyanic acid, which is poison to both man and animal. The bitter kind contains more of the poison, but both kinds have it.

In the sweet kind, the poison is concentrated on the bark or skin of the crop, not so much on the flesh or meat. In the bitter kind, the poison is spread out on whole crop.

Weather and environment also have something to do with the cassava's poison content. When there is much nitrogen in the soil, there is more poison in the cassava where potassium in the soil is high, the poison in the cassava is low.

A long dry season increases the cassava's poison content: wet soil as during the rainy season lowers its poison content. Because of this, it is said that cassava contains poison in Summer.

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According to scientists, cassava's poison contains more or less 30-150 mg of hydrocyanic acid (a milligram is one part of a thousand grams). If the hydrocyanic acid content is less than 50 mg it will not be harmful to eat. If it will exceed 100 mg. the poison content could be dangerous.

In the ordinary way of cooking, the poison disappears in the sweet kind but in the bitter kind, about 20 mg per kilo remains in the fresh peeled cassava.

According to experts, the amount of hydrocyanic acid in cassava is poisonous from one-half mg (.5 mg) up to 3.5 mg per kilo of the person eating the cassava. Thus, a person who weighs 50 kilos will be poisoned if he consumes one and one-fourth (1 1/4) kilo of bitter cassava. When his stomach begins to ache and he starts vomiting, or his mind becomes confused after eating cassava, then he has been poisoned.

The poison in cassava disappears during cooking, so, cooking cassava as suman is a safe way of eating cassava. Besides, suman preparation entails removal of bark, grating, extracting the juice, before cooking. Grating and extracting the juice already removes the poison, and it is further evaporated during cooking.

Other ways of removing the poison in cassava are: chopping, soaking in water, heating up to 57°C, and exposing in the sun. It is best not just to steam it but to cook it well. Even the bitter kind loses its poison when cooked well.

But it is always better to buy the sweet kind. This is known if, upon removal of the bark, the flesh is sweet. The meat of the sweet cassava tastes sweet!

Source: Greenfields December 1980

SEAWEED - CULTURE

Guso in Visayas agal-agal in Malay

Plant the kind of seaweeds that grows fast, like "tambalang" (from the cotoni species)Choose a place in the sea where it is favorable to grow seaweeds:

where other plants as well grow.the sea bottom is hard sand or stony, not clean and soft sand.the water moves, not stationary, but the current is not so strong as to carry away the seaweeds.Plant only the branch -- this grows easily even without a hold at the bottom.Its hold must be loose, not firm.Planting must be submerged in the lowest tide in the sea, about 1-2 ft at lowest. It should not be exposed above water for 1-2 hours.Don't plant by a river or where brackish water will reach it.

In one and a half months (about 45 days), it will slow if the place is conducive for seaweed planting. If not, the seaweed is pale, or like pale yellow.

Procedure:

Set up posts at the sea bottom, with 20-25 cm high from the water bottom line, one meter apart for each pair and 10 m apart each pair.2. The nylon string across the 10 m's distance. One hectare of seaweed area can have

1000 of 1-m lines, and each line can accommodate 35 plantlings.3. Remove sea urchins and fishes that will feed on the seaweeds and wild weeds growing

nearby so as not to crowd the seaweeds.4. If a plant disappears, or if a plant grows too slowly, change it with a fast growing one.

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5. Harvest before each plant reaches about a kilo each (2-3 months) because this will slow down growth and cause shade and breaking of branches. Cut the branches so they will grow again, or change with a new plant. The bigger is the new plant, the faster can it be harvested.

6. The harvested seaweeds are exposed to the sun for 3 days in a clean a place. Spread out on coconut leaves or latticed bamboo. Reverse several times and remove stones and dirt.

7. Cover at night and when it is raining.

Source: Technology PCARRD Vol III No. 3 1981 Los Baños

HARVESTING SEAWEEDS

To harvest seaweeds, care is important in following safety rules such as:

1. Wear boots before going into the sea to protect your feet from the sharp stones and spiny shellfish at the sea bottom. Also wear long sleeves to protect yourself from the sun.

2. Don't go out too far from the shore because when the tide is low, there are seaweeds near the shore that you can harvest. It is dangerous to go out far in the middle of the sea, and it is necessary to have a net and tools for pulling the seaweeds.

3. Seaweeds cling to big rocks. Be careful because these rocks are slippery.4. It is also good to gather seaweeds along rocks and caves by the shore.5. The lower the tide, the easier it is to gather seaweeds. Thus, it is good to know when

it will be low tide in your place.6. Bring along pail or bag, hammer and knife. If you wish to go to deeper areas, wear a

diving mask and feet protector for swimming.7. After harvesting seaweeds, wash these immediately in running water. Seaweeds may

be sold fresh. Store in a container with seawater or dry in the sun.

Source: Philippine Farmers' Journal

RADISH

Almost every part of the radish plant is useful. The leaves and roots may be eaten raw or cooked as vegetable, or cooked with meat or fish.

Besides its use as food, radish is also used in many other ways its oil doesn't dry up like ordinary oil. This is used in soapmaking the meat after juice extraction is used as fertilizer. Radish is also medicine for diseases of the liver and spleen.

There are two kinds of radish. One is planted for its crop and the other for its leaves and roots. The different varieties we have are:

Japanese radish -- big and long, late harvestedChinese radish -- fine, smooth and white, productive and has moderate length of time for

harvestWhite icicle -- early harvest, rounded, long with small roots.Bombay, 60 Days and others -- can harvest within 100 days from planting, and mature 30

days from germination.

Land Preparation

1. Plow and harrow the field lengthwise and crosswise, and leave it for seven days to allow the uprooted weeds to rot and their seeds to grow.

2. Plow and harrow as before, repeat a third time but deeper.3. Make elevated beds about one-half meter away from each other.4. Put fertilizer where plants will be grown mix this with the soil by means of a rake.

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Planting

A hectare of land would accommodate about 100 grams of seeds. Apply a kerosene can of compost before planting (see no. 8)

1. Treat the seeds first in growth regulator like "Seet Treat."2. Mix one teaspoon Orthocide 50 WP per kilo of seeds to check whatever diseases they

may have.3. Prepare the planting of the seeds. To make them evenly apart, use a string attached to

both ends -- one at 10 cm, a second at 40 cm, etc.4. With the aid of a pointed stick, make a hole one and a half (1½) cm deep and 10 cm

apart, following the distance of the string.5. Drop two seeds in each hole and cover with fine soil. Water with fine spray so as not

to dislodge the seeds or remove the top soil.6. Cover with straw about 5-10 cm thick between the rows of plants, with space of about

5 cm from the plant. Don't cover the seed especially if it has not germinated. Keep away chicken from scratching the seeds away. The straw or dried leaves serve to protect the plants from strong rain or intense heat, and from growing weeds.

7. Water morning and afternoon in the first three (3) days after planting don't allow them to get dry. When the seeds germinate, water only in the morning. Ten days after all have germinated, water only in the afternoon when the ground is dry.

8. Dig a canal around the plot about 30 cm wide and 40 cm deep to where the water will run in case of heavy rain.

9. Before planting, mix a can of compost to every 2 sq. meters of plot. If animal manure will be used, apply this after the first plowing: one can per sq. meter. If chemical fertilizer will be used, have the soil analyzed first at the Bureau of Soils Laboratory. If not, the National Food and Agricultural Council recommends 8 bags of ammonium sulfate for every hectare of radish plants.

Maintenance

When the soil around the plant becomes compact, loosen it especially when the roots are beginning to grow. Be careful not to hurt the roots. If in spite of putting straw or dried leaves, weeds continue to grow, remove them manually.

Pests

To control insect pests, spray any of the following: Orthene 75 SP, SD, Tamaron 600 EC, Phosdrin 1.5 Ec, Hostathion 40 EC, or Vegetox, following instructions on the label, at an interval of 7 days.

Trapping by means of light helps to control insect pests.

Diseases

A soil-borne or seed borne disease of radish attacks the new plant when the soil is very wet. As mentioned earlier, treat the seeds with orthocide or Spergon Fermate or Zerlate -- one-half teaspoon per gallon water. The black rot disease has a V-shape on the leaves. The leaves turn yellow then fall off. There is a black ring around the body when the leaf is removed.

Harvesting

Different varieties have different times of maturity, from 30 days from germination to 100 days after planting. Thus, it is good to know the variety to be planted, or try ten plants first. When overmature, radish is fibrous, porous and doesn't taste good. Pull up the crop when harvesting in early morning or late afternoon. Don't harvest when the sun is hot

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because it will wilt immediately. Wash, bundle and bring to market first hour in the morning. Don't pile them too high so as not bruise the crops, and to avoid heating for the crops under the pile.

Seeding

Get seeds only from healthy plants. Let these flower and bear seeds. Apply 2 grams ammonium sulfate, and water daily. Maintain with care until the fruits turn yellow. Select good seeds from good plants. When the pods are over mature, these will burst open. Dry the seeds in the sun to kill pests or disease. Before storing them, mix a little DDT or Orthocide 50 WP before packing. Put in a jar with fine charcoal at the bottom and over it a piece of cardboard with holes. Label jar. Seal the cover with masking tape until the next planting season.

Source: Greenfields November 1992

SESAME

(Tilseed, Cameline, German sesame, benniseed, dodder, linga)

Sesame (linga) oil is used, not only for cooking food, but also for the manufacture of other things, such as margarine, soap, cosmetics, perfume, insecticides, pain and medicine. What is left after the extraction of its oil is excellent for feed for poultry, hogs, goat and rabbits. Its protein content is 22%, besides other substances.

There are many kinds of sesame. The following varieties yield good harvest and abundant oil: Sri Lanka Black, Japanese Black, and Iligan Marinduque Black, which are native to us. The white varieties that similarly yield good harvest and abundant oil which are used for special cuisine, are: the Japanese White, Guatemala White, Mexican White and our own native white variety. These are resistant to pests and diseases.

Sesame grows in warm weather. This will not thrive in temperature as low as 21°C. It can withstand dry weather, but also needs watering as it grows.

Because sesame seeds are very tiny, it seeds should be planted shallow in soil, free from weeds, does not retain water, and fertile. The distance of the plants from one another should be one-half meter apart if the variety does not bear branches, and 70-80 cm apart if it bears branches.

Mix the seeds with sand, and plant 5-10 seeds in a hole about 10-15 cm apart if it is branch-bearing, and only 8-12 cm if it is not branch bearing. In one hectare of land, 4-6 kilos of seeds can be accommodated.

Irrigation is necessary in planting, but only once or twice after planting when it is growing. It needs watering before flowering and before fruit bearing. The seeds germinate 5-7 days after sowing.

Two weeks after germination, remove some leaves and branches and transplant the plant. Leave only two strong plants in every hill. After 3-4 weeks when the plants are sturdy, loosen the soil (culture). Culture again when the plant is 30 cm high. Always remove the weeds because this will diminish the capacity for fruit bearing.

Apply fertilizer

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Sesame does not like humid and rainy place. In rainy season, it is vulnerable to disease, so choose only varieties that are resistant.

Don't plant sesame repeatedly in the same area after harvest, so as to avoid disease or pest.

Don't use insecticide containing sulfur because this is not good for sesame.

Harvest

1. The sesame plant flourishes from 85-150 days. Harvest when flowering stops, and the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

2. The pods burst out when these are ripe, so the seeds will scatter. Cut off the pods when still green and bunch them.

3. Spread the branches on a mat and thick cloth and put these under the sun.4. When dried, beat the branches to bring out the seeds. Clean off the stones and dirt,

and branches.5. Dry the seeds before storing. If they are for planting, apply chemical on the seeds to

keep pests away.

Source: Greenfields Feb. 1989

GINGER

Ginger can grow in sandy or loose soil, provided it is planted at a depth of about 30 cm, has enough water and which does not hold water when it folds or rains.

It can grow in shady places together with tall trees or plants. It is most productive when it is 25% shaded.

Four Kinds that Grow Locally

1. Our native gingerdd. white ginger -- small, very fibrous but most pungent of all kindsee. yellow ginger -- like the white in kind except that it is orange in color, but the

part above is dark green.2. Imugan improved native, bigger crop, with resistance to soil diseases, its leaves have

deeper lines.a. bears more crops than the original native, about 1/3 or 2/3 more.

3. Jamaica "Oya" -- pale and moderate in size.a. dried "Oya" is leather-colored and aromatic, used in the manufacture of soft

drinks.4. Hawaiian -- bigger, stouter crops and yellowish brown flesh, sometimes pinkish not so

pungent but liked by foreigners. This kind yields about 20-30 tons per hectare. It is good for making into powdered or dried ginger.

Planting

1. One week before planting ginger, plow the field and remove all weeds and roots and make sure the place does not hold water when it rains.

2. If planting will be in two rows, the plot must be about 30 cm high and less than two meters wide. The length depends on the farmer.

3. If the soil has disease, sterilize it first by burning plenty of straw, or dried leaves of banana and coconut over it about 3 times.

4. Plant only fresh ginger free from disease, about 20 grams in weight, and showing early germination. A hectare of land can accommodate about 800 seedlings.

5. Before planting the ginger, wash them very well first in running water, and to make them free from disease, soak first for 10-15 minutes in chemical:

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a. dissolve 5-6 grs mercuric bichloride in a porcelain cup of hot waterb. mix this in five (5) gallons of waterc. add 189 cc strong hydrochloric acid

6. Plant the ginger about 5 cm deep in every hill, about 25 cm apart from each other. Arrange the hills in pyramid shape, whether the place has good drainage or not. Plant the ginger sideways or lying down, and cover with about 10 cm thick soil. If the place is under the shade of coconut or other trees with good drainage, plant the ginger about 20-25 cm in a shallow hill, about 45 cm apart from each other.

7. As in any plant, ginger needs fertilizer. If the soil is sandy, apply 400 kilograms complete fertilizer for every hectare (or 300 kilos if the soil is clayey sand).

8. After planting, cover the ginger with plenty of leaves (ipil-ipil, straw or madre de cacao) to keep the soil from drying up, and to keep the soil from eroding when it rains. These also add to the fertilization of the soil when the leaves decompose.

9. On the second and fourth month, apply fertilizer again, about 400 kilos complete fertilizer for every hectare.

10. Always clean the plot from weeds.11. To overcome attacks of pests and aphid, spray malathion 5% active ingredient -- 4-7

grams for every gallon of water.12. To overcome disease, spray Parzate or Dithane z - 78, 2 grams for every gallon of

water.13. Diseases in the soil can be overcome only by sterilizing the soil before planting (as

earlier mentioned) and in selecting varieties resistant to disease.14. The land must be plowed early to hasten its getting dry before planting time.

Harvesting

1. Ginger is ready to harvest when the leaves turn yellow and begin to wilt, about 8 months after planting.

2. Harvest ginger only when it is mature enough. In harvesting, dig every hill with the help of a fork, then pull up the plant, shake off the soil, and lay them on the ground. The branches and leaves may be cut off but take care not to hurt the crops.

3. While harvesting, segregate the ginger according to variety and size. Put in containers so as not to hurt them.

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Drying

Ginger rots easily, but this can last long if dried

1. Soak and wash in water the fresh ginger. Scrape off gently all outer skin so as not to hurt the cells beneath this skin. Most of the cells that contain the oil and fragrance of ginger lie under the skin.

2. Cut up the ginger about 1/8 inches thin.3. Dip in 2% sodium metabisulfite solution (1½ tbsp./1 water) for about 5-10 minutes,

drain.4. Spread the sliced ginger on a wire tray or nylon. Dry in the sun or in the oven at 65°C

until brittle.5. Store in containers safe from insects.

Source: Greenfields March 1990

Harvesting and preserving ginger

When the leaves of the ginger plant turn yellow and begin to wilt, it is time to harvest the ginger. In a ginger plantation, three people should do the harvesting: one will dig up the crop with the help of a fork or spade another will pull up the plant, shake off the soil and stack them in rows. The third will cut the stems and lay them for drying.

Care must be taken not to hurt the crops. Gather the harvest three (3) hours after, preferably late in the afternoon. Segregate them according to sizes. Wash well.

Storing

To make the ginger last even up to one year:

1. Expose the baskets containing ginger to warm air (or blower) about 42°C. Do this 1-2 days in an open place.

2. Air the ginger (normal temperature) about 5-10 days.3. Store the ginger in a place about 20.6°C at 80% humidity, or in a cool place if not

refrigeration is available.

Source: Agricultural and Industrial Life

YOUNG CORN

Young, immature corn is a specialty in Asia which is becoming known in developed countries. This is exportable to USA and Australia, which countries import this commodity from Taiwan and Thailand.

Young-corn is as young as four (4) days from emergence, 2 days after the hair appears, measures about 4-11 cm long, 1-1.8 cm in circumference, and weighs about 14 grams when removed from the stem.

This is harvested 43-57 days after planting. It can grow in any kind of soil and climate the year round, and does not need much pesticide.

If the place is irrigated or the region has constant rainfall, young corn can be harvested four times a year. The stem and leaves after the crop is harvested serve well as food for animals (fodder) for cows and carabaos.

A hectare of land can accommodate about 120,000 plants and this provides about 46 tons of fodder.

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Source: Greenfields January 1992

PLANT PEANUTS

Peanuts can be grown and made to bear fruit the whole year. A planter can harvest two times or more a year if this cultivation is good and the soil is fertile. Because there is always a big demand for peanuts, the planter is sure to earn. Among legumes, peanut is highest in minerals and in Vitamin B content, and has 26% protein. Every gram of peanutcontains 5.4 calories. It is said that a half kilo of peanuts, more or less, equals one-half kilo of milk or three eggs of moderate size. And even if it brings high calories, it has no cholesterol.

Soil and climate

Peanuts like loose, fertilizer sandy soil or porous with good permeability (that is, it does not retain water), warm climate, and an even rainfall throughout the year.

Planting

Plant peanuts in May and June if the season is rainy and between October and November if the season is dry. Summer is more favorable because in rainy weather, peanut leaves and branches are abundant, but the fruits are few. If there is irrigation, peanuts should be planted in February to be able to harvest big and plentiful grains. Peanuts may be planted along with other crops, for instance, watermelon.

Land Preparation

1. Plow the field two times at two weeks' interval. Harrow the field after plowing.2. If soil drainage is not good, plant the peanut on hills.3. Dig trenches about 50-60 cm apart if the variety of peanut is bunchy, and 70-80 cm

apart if the variety spreads. If other crops will be planted together with the peanuts, make the distance one meter apart.

4. Before planting, apply rhizobium on the peanut grains to ensure that these will grow nodules that produce nitrogen in the roots. This is available at the Bureau of Soils or Bureau of Plant Industry. In a container, wet the peanut grains with water and pour the rhizobium on them. Mix well to ensure that every grain gets rhizobium. Or, add enough water to make it pasty and mix well the grains in it. If the place for planting had been planted to peanuts also before, or plants that have been applied with rhizobium in the past three years, it is not necessary to put rhizobium in the peanuts. Such plants are mongo, soybeans, and other legumes.

5. Plant the grains immediately. Plant them in hills about 2-3 grains in each hole, 20 cm apart. A hectare of land would accommodate about 90-125 kilos seeds.

6. Apply adequate fertilizer before planting the peanuts. This responds better to fertilizer during rainy season than during dry season. Put initial nitrogen fertilizer, 25-30 kilos per hectare before planting. But if the soil is poor and shows lack of potassium and phosphorus, experts advise to apply about four (4) bags (200 kg) of 14-14-14 before planting peanuts. Apply the fertilizer about 5 cm away from the rows of seeds at about 2½ cm deep. Cover with 2-3 cm soil so that this will not disturb the seedling's growth.

7. Peanuts grains need nitrogen fertilizer, especially if it is intended to be fodder (for animals). Peanuts needs phosphorus, especially if the soil is sandy. Potassium brings about increase in grains and their oil content. The application of potassium must be deep but reachable to the peanut roots. If this is shallow, the grains will not get enough calcium, so these will not grow good grains. To make the grains full, the soil should have enough calcium. So, apply lime or dolomex in the amount advised by the agriculturist.

8. If peanut is planted in October, it will not need irrigation until December. But if this will be planted in February, it should be watered 3 or 4 times. If the soil is very dry

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before planting time, irrigate before planting, or water soon after planting to hasten germination. Water again when the grains begin to form.

9. When irrigating, wet the soil until about 30 cm deep.10. Peanuts germinate in 15 days after planting. Three weeks after germination, see if the

application of rhizobium has been effective. Pull up a plant, cut (dissect) the grain at the root. If the grain is pinkish, the rhizobium was effective. If it is pale or gray, it did not take effect. If the plant has no nodules in the biggest root but the plant grows well, the soil has adequate nitrogen. If the soil lacks nitrogen but the roots at the side instead has nodules, the rhizobium took effect although not sufficiently.

Thus, nitrogen fertilizer is necessary while preparing the soil for planting. If still, the peanuts do not bear good grains, then the soil is not for peanuts.

Control for pests and diseases.

1. Weeds -- apply herbicides 2-3 weeks before planting to keep weeds from growing. Culture the soil, but stop when the plants begin to flower, lest the grains that are starting to develop get hurt.

2. Pests and diseases attack peanuts too, like any other plant. During humid and hot climate, damage is caused, such as:

a) leaves and sometimes stalk -- reddish brown or black spots

Control: apply:Fungitox -- 1-2 spoonfuls in 5 gallons water orBenlate -- ½ teaspoon in one gal water

b) leaves -- dark orange or brown blisters under the leaves at the latter part of growth. This is the sign of peanut rust.

Control: Dithane M-45 -- 2 teaspoons for every gal of water Plant vax -- ½ teaspoons for every gal of water Spray 3 times at the time of growth, with 10-14 days interval.

c) wilting of leaves, stalk and sometimes the whole plant.

Control: Spray with Vitigran Blue 35 WP -- 3 tablespoons in 5 gal at first sign of infection or before it sets. Repeat 1-2 weeks between, remove diseased parts.

d) Rosete -- disease spread by aphids.

Small round yellow spot, leaves curl up at the end.

The next set of leaves have colorless stripes. When this becomes serious, the plant stops growing and leaves form in clusters like roses. The disease enters the grains which starts its spread in the field. To avoid, don't use seeds from diseased plants. Consult technicians from BAEX or the Bureau of Plant Industry for problems like this.

Harvesting

Peanuts mature within four months after planting. It is ready for harvest when the leaves wilt and turn yellow if planted in summer.This is also known if the shell of the peanut is hard. Pull up about ten plants, open and see the shell of the grain. If there are dark streaks or roots inside the shell, the peanut is ready for harvest.

If the peanut is not mature, the shell is shriveled. If it is over matured, this roots in the soil, or starts to germinate.

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1. Pull up the plants with the help of a spade or fork, or plow the two sides of the rows before pulling them up. Stack up the harvest in a dry place and air the peanuts.

2. Newly harvested peanuts contain 50-55% water. If this will be dried in the sun, dry them until the humidity is about 12%. If it will be stored in a closed container, dry until 6-8% humidity.

3. Carefully remove the kernels from the shell don't allow them to be broken or their seed cover by bruised. This will be the start of rotting.

It is better to store peanuts with their shell to avoid pest destruction.

If watermelon is planted together with the peanuts, this will be harvested earlier by one month. But it will go on bearing fruit after the first harvest. The body of the watermelon plant will remain in the field until the peanuts are harvested.

Source: Greenfields June 1979

PLANT WATERMELON THE PROPER WAY

October is the right time for planting watermelon, (not December when the thrips come out) usually just after the palay harvest when the soil still retains moisture.

Watermelon likes clay-loam soil with good irrigation and drainage.

1. Plant seeds 3 in a hill, with canals in between rows to facilitate drainage. In an area of 2,000 square meters, 1000 hills can be made. If the seeds do not germinate, put seeds again in each hill.

2. Apply fertilizers:4 kilos complete fertilizers2 kilos Furadan ( to prevent dumping off disease)

3. After 2 weeks, apply:

1 liter of the above mixture1/2 small can Urea put in a pail of waterApply 1 liter per hill

4. After another 2 weeks

1 liter Urea1/2 liter Triple 14 in a 1 pail of waterFrom this, get 1 liter and mix in a pail of water and apply 1 liter of it per hill

5. After 10 days, apply the above mixture every 5 days

6. After 10 days

2 liter Urea and 1 liter Triple 14 (in a pail of water)Apply 1 liter of this in one pail of water every 5 days

7. After another 10 days:

3 liters Urea2 liters Triple 14in 1 pail of waterApply 1 liter to a pail of water; 1 liter for each hill every 5 days.

For fruiting purposes,

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2 liter Triple 14 and 1 liter Urea (in 1 pail of water)1 liter of this in 1 pail water every 5 days

8. In another 10 days

3 liters Triple 142 liters Urea1 pail of waterApply same as above every 5 days

9. Another 10 days, apply

4 liters Triple 143 liter Urea1 pail water

10. Another 10 days:

5 liters Triple 144 liters Urea1 pail waterSame way as above

Source: The Philippine Star Sunday March 14, 1993

PEPPER

Planting pepper is a lifetime livelihood if well developed. If the soil is good and care is good, the quality of the harvest is likewise good and so commands a good price in the market. When harvest is poor, even the stems of this plant, when dried, can also be used and sold including the chaff when powdered. Although these are not so strong in taste as the fruit itself, they are nevertheless sought because of the aroma they give to the food. So, even the powdered pulp gets sold.

Planting

1. Plant materials in pepper consist of the stem with 3 nodes. Separate these from the mother plant at the beginning of the rainy season, and plant in the nursery side by side for growing roots in a rooting bed.

2. The bed for growing these must be in the shade and elevated, surrounded by hollow blocks.

3. Make the bed three layers of soil so as to ensure good drainage such as:river sand on top -- 1 foot thicksmall pebbles in the second layerbigger stones at the bottom

4. Water a little -- once in the morning and one in the afternoon. Cover with a plastic sheet.

5. In one month, roots will grow about an inch at the nodes.6. This can now be transferred to plastic bags with holes at the bottom, half filled with

sand and the other half with loose soil. When transplanting, thrust a stick into the plastic bag, and in its hole, put in the plant.

7. In 2-3 months when there are about 4-5 new growths (shoots) in the upper part of the plant, it can now be transferred in the fields.

8. Black pepper is a climbing plant, so it needs a trellis or tree to climb. The best is the madre cacao (kakawate). Its long branches are cut like poles and thrust into the ground, 2-3 m apart, in April and May.

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These branches will grow leaves and branches in the first rain in June. Change the branch that does not grow.

9. Plant two seedlings of pepper at the base of every pole. Remove them from the plastic bag and plant one feet away from the kakawate pole.

Tie the stem to the pole to help it climb. In one week's time, the roots of the pepper will adhere to the pole and the plant will climb by itself.

Maintenance/Care of the Pepper Plant

1. Always remove weeds around the plant. Apply fertilizer about 2 ft. away from the plant; it is much better if this is mixed with the soil. Put the fertilizer at the beginning of the rains in June: 1 kilo of 14-14-14 or 16-16-16, and ½ kilo in October. Without chemical fertilizer, the proper grains will not grow big and heavy. (See section on improvement/maintenance of plants).

2. Always prune the branches of the kakawate to allow sufficient sunshine on the pepper plant (but not so much pruning as to destroy the tree).

It is in the rainy season that pruning should be done after when the branches and leaves grow fast. Pruning is done about 5-6 times a year, or every 1½ months during the rainy season.

Control also the height of the kakawate (madre de cacao) because it is difficult to harvest pepper from a very high post, which should not be beyond 10 feet.

In Indonesia and Malaysia, they use posts made from strong wood that are treated against termites to make them last long. In this way, no pruning will be necessary.

Pests and Diseases of the Pepper

Two plant diseases afflict pepper, usually those whose soil has poor drainage. Pepper doesn't like soil that retains water, and may be the cause of its death.

Other than these, pepper is resistant to pests and diseases, so pesticides are not necessary.

Harvesting

In 2 years, pepper bears fruit. Its fist fruits are not so plentiful, but in its 3rd year, harvest ranges from ½ to one kilo per tree. On its 4th year, each plant can give one to one and a half kilo dried pepper.

1. The bunches of grains are harvested when these turn yellow. They do not ripen at the same time. It takes 3 weeks to one month to harvest them.

2. The harvested pepper is spread on cement to dry like palay or coffee. In good weather, this dries in 3 days.

In rainy weather, this can be left alone even up to 5 days, but let it dry by itself when the rain stops. It will be worse to gather them and put them in a container where the grains will heat up, which hastens its rot.

3. Threshing

To separate the pulp and foreign matters from the grains, it is better tot use a machine for the purpose because the machine does faster work with less cost for labor.

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4. Winnowing is done normally in which the immature grain and light ones separate from the matured. In this way, high quality grains are segregated, which command a higher price.

As mentioned earlier, even its chaff and stems, when powdered, are commerciable.

Source: Greenfields July 1990

POTATOES

Planting potatoes using growths has been tried and found better than using the root crop itself. The former is more productive and grows faster. This is possible with the varieties Ackersegen and Mariella.

Manner of Planting

1. Select potatoes free from disease with growths around 1-3 cm. long.2. Cut up the parts with growths that will serve as "cuttings".3. Plant these first in a pot.4. When 4 or more leaves have come out, this can be transferred in the field.5. Potatoes like clayey or sandy soil. Sieve the soil to remove dirt and clumps of soil. Mix

the soil with animal manure (carabao, horse, cow, etc.) 1 part soil and 2 parts dried manure.

6. Make pots out of banana or nanka leaves or similar wide leaves.7. Fill this with the mixture of soil and manure.

Cutting Up the Growths

The best time for cutting growths is from October to the first days of November.

1. Remove with the hand the growths from the flesh of the potato.2. Cut up the potato with growths around 4-5 mm size.3. Place the growths in the center of each pot and press gently until it is halfway down in

the soil mixture.4. Place these in the shade where there is no strong wind.5. Water with hose 3-4 times a day.6. In 3-5 days, roots and shoots will grow.7. On the 7-8 days, put them in a place with adequate sunlight.8. Put 1 gram urea and 2 grams single superphosphate in a liter of water, and spray this

on the plants 2-3 times a day.9. After 2 weeks, the plants will be about 7-10 cm. high. This can now be transferred to

the field.10. The mother potato from where the growths were taken can also be planted.

If the shoots are many, 2 growths can be taken from every root crop and planted immediately.

Planting

1. Make beds where the cuttings will be planted. Make the soil fine, and plant the cuttings 20-25 cm apart.

2. Apply fertilizers such as: animal manure - 2kg/sq m or 20 tons/ha superphosphates - 350gms/ha muriate of potash - 150 gms/ha nitrogen - 150 gms/ha

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3. In planting, choose a time when it is not rainy. Transplant the whole plant from its pot so as not to hurt the roots.Place 1-2 plants in every hill (tundos). Put soil around each plant.

4. Water the plants 2 times a day for a week.5. From transplanting, apply fertilizer 4 times: days 12-15,25-30,40-45,55-60.6. After 3-4 weeks without rain, irrigate the plants as in ordinary irrigation.

Harvesting

1. Choose only matured root crops.2. Store in a place with plenty of sunlight. Let this harden and turn green.3. After 7-8 days, store in the usual way of storing crops.

Source: PCARRD Farmars Sept 1987

PATOLA

Patola or luffa (scientific name) is commonly planted as vegetable or for food. According to scientists, it contains calcium, iron and plenty of phosphorus.

There are two kinds of patola:

1. One is the many-sided which is inherently ours and the other is the cylindrical type which is called "patolang Kastila."

2. Our local version is the sweeter kind.

Planting

Patola is not difficult to grow, but it likes loose, sandy soil, fertile and does not lodge water.It may be planted at any time of year, but there are more flowers, and fruits are bigger when the weather is cool.

Patola is planted two times a year: from March to May and from October to December. But if the fruits will be made into luffa, it is better to plant it in October-December so the harvest falls in summer.

Ordinary patola is planted directly in the field; but if it is not in season, plant first in plastic bags (perforated at the bottom) and then latter transfer to the field when it will be needing trellises to climb on.

Land Preparation

1. Plow the field and clean 2-3 times, with 7 days' interval.2. Dig trenches 3 meters apart from each other.3. Plant the seed in the soil at 3 x 3 (or 2m) meters apart.4. Set bamboo poles or posts in rows about 3 meters long and 3 meters apart. Tie strings

or wire from post to post about 3 weeks after germination of seeds. Patola will bear fruit even without trellis, but many fruits will turn out in bad shape.

5. Patola needs watering. Dig canal for irrigation about 1½ meters from the plant or between trenches.

Fertilizer

Apply composting animal manure

Harvesting

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About 3-4 months after planting, or 45-50 days after flowering, patola can be harvested. A hectare of patola can yield about 10,000 pieces or more, depending on how well the plants have been maintained.

Source: Dept. of Trade & Industry 1989

LUFFA

Patola as sponge has long been known in this country, but abroad, they are just beginning to know its use, and have learned to like it.

Patola is sewn on a piece of cloth that serves as a handle for rubbing. Because of this, luffa or matured patola is in demand abroad, but we cannot meet this demand. Australian asks for a million pieces, to be sold in drug stores and department stores as sponge, 30x6 cm sizes. This is flat, but expands when put in water. The U.S. gets its supply from Korea (from where luffa is supplied by a certain "Luffa King" because of his extensive luffa plantation for the purpose), by Japan, China and some other countries. In France, they like luffa as a natural beautifier and cleanser.

In Germany, their import of luffa is as natural as DM 1.83 million from Egypt, Greece, Japan, Cuba, USA, Tinisia, France, Netherlands, Italy, Great Britain and Lebanon. Thus, if we can produce enough patola for export, it will mean bringing in dollars to our country, without much competition.

Manner of Preparation

1. Let the patola grow mature before harvesting.2. Remove the peel and shake off the seeds. It could be easier to clean this by boiling

first, but this will diminish the coarseness for rubbing.3. Dry in the sun for two days (in Summer) or 4-5 days in rainy weather. It can also be

dried in the oven but the quality is inferior to that which is sun dried. Its whiteness is less.

4. Wash to clean and soften. Bleach to make it white.5. Dry in the sun again 3-5 days. Now, the patola becomes wider, softer, and milk

colored.6. Cut into desired sizes (according to customers' taste).7. Seal in plastic bag.

Source: Bureau of Export Trade and Promotion Dept. of Trade & Industry 1991

CUCUMBER

There are two kinds of cucumber: one is for preserving and the other is for serving raw as salad.

The one for serving is short and plump with white or black spikes, dark green in color that turns whitish at the ends. If the spikes are white, these turn yellow or white as they mature.

If the spikes are black, this turns reddish when mature from end to end and has white spikes.

Manner of Planting

1. Cucumber seeds for planting are taken from matured plants. The more mature, hte more seeds will germinate.

2. Cucumber grows in any kind of soil but it likes best loose, sandy soil enriched with compost. it doesn't like sticky soil.

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3. Loose soil makes cucumber germinate and grow fast, but it must be maintained with watering as it dries up quickly especially in Summer.

4. Growth and development of cucumber is good in long summer days.

Preparation of Land

1. If the area for planting is small, a hoe will be enough for tilling the soil; but if it is wide, plow is necessary.

2. Make hills 6 ft. apart and 8 ft. away from one another. The farther apart , the more productive in fruits the plants will be. if they are close to one another, some fruits will be left unseen during harvest time as these will be obscured by the vine ends. Also, if the plants are far apart, danger of infection and diseases is lessened when the rain comes.

3. Plant 5-6 seeds in every hill and reduce it to 3 plants when they grow. When the seed germinate, culture the soil around each plant, but take care not to hurt the roots of the plant. Similarly in reducing the newly germinating plants, avoid hurting the plants to be retained.

4. Cucumber like moderate watering.5. Apply fertilizer to increase the fruits.6. Put up trellises to prevent the plants' being bushy. It can also be made to crawl on the

ground, but the quality of the fruits will not be as good. To have straight and fruits of the same color for salad, trellises are necessary. It can also be made to climb the side of the fence.

7. Avoid pests and diseases through smoking and spraying pesticide.

Harvesting

1. After 55-65 days, cucumber can be harvested if these will be used as salad or preserved.

2. Cut with a knife from the stem so as not to disturb much the vine from where it is gathered.

Source: Greenfields, September 1990

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GROW BIGGER BANANA FRUITS

1. Apply plenty of compost in the hole where the bananas shoot will be planted.2. Always water the plant.3. Remove the weeds around it; vegetables may be planted around the plant in the first

six months.4. Allow only one shoot to grow in every plant when it is about 6 months old.5. After harvesting the bunch, remove the plant and allow the upcoming shoot to grow.6. Don't allow banana plant to fall.7. Take care of every bunch of bananas by enveloping it in plastic or with banana leaves.Source: PCARRD Farmnews Sept-Oct 1991

CHAYOTE

Chayote is a climbing plant that can rise as high as 12 meters. Its leaves are heart-shaped, 10-25 cm wide and with tendrils on the stem. The flowers are cream-colored or somewhat green that come out beneath a leaf or branch. If the plant is male, the flowers are in cluster; if female, the flowers come singly. The fruit, light green, is elongated with one end narrower than the other with deep ridges lengthwise.

The young leaves are eaten as vegetables (as salad), the roots grow like yam (ubi) and are also edible when cooked as sweets or fried like camote.

If the harvest of chayote is abundant, it is cheaper to use it as food for pigs than the usual commercial feed.

Chayote likes a cool climate with rains that are even during the year. It grows well in loose soil with fertilizer and likes rich volcanic soil.

Planting

1. Plant the matured fruit. This is allowed to germinate, first in a nursery. Upon reaching about 30 cm, it can now be transferred to the field.

2. Make holes about 30 cm wide and 3-5 meters apart from one another. Mix the soil with compost and put it back into the hole.

3. One to three seedlings can be planted in each hole. Cover with soil. Always clear the surroundings of weeds - until about 2 meters away from the plants. When the plant spreads and fill the trellises, the growth of weeds will be controlled.

4. Put trellises on every plant when these are about 30 cm high. Compost is the best fertilizer, but at 7-8 weeks, apply complete fertilizer before and after every rain.

Harvesting

If the chayote plant is planted for its fruits, do not prune the plant to get shoots; allow the big vine to spread so as to get the most sunshine and dew. But if the purpose is for shoots only, the plant gets pruned while the young leaves are gathered.

1. Manually pick the fruits when the desired size is reached.2. Place the container of the harvested chayote in shade to keep them fresh for a longer

time.

Pests and Diseases

Chayote is not beset with enemies of diseases like other plants. All it needs is care from weeds and adequate watering.Source: Agribusiness (DA) 1991BELL PEPPER

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There are two kinds of bell pepper -- one is the pungent kind and the other not. The first is used in food manufacturing where they are processed as spice and sold as food condiments. The other, non-pungent, is the ordinary kind sold in markets. A hectare of pepper can accommodate 27,600 plants that are about 60 cm apart from each other. Bell pepper likes a warm climate, fertile soil that does not lodge water; it is good to plant it at a time when the sun shines abundantly in that place.

Commercial Scale Planting

As in the preparations for other plants,

1. Plow the field to remove weeds and their roots. Harrow afterwards.2. Repeat after a week so as to remove remaining weeds whose seeds have now

germinated since the first plowing.3. Repeat a third time after 5 days for same reason.4. Dig holes 60 cm apart from one another, 15 cm deep.5. Before transplanting the seedlings, put about 4 cm deep compost at the bottom (if in

summer) and 10 cm compost on top (in rainy weather) to facilitate watering.6. With this preparation, prepare the nursery for the seedlings.

Preparation for the Nursery

The nursery bed for bell pepper is about 1 meter wide with the soil about 10 cm high.

1. Mix a can (kerosene can) of compost for every square meter bed.2. Place dried coconut leaves about 5 cm thick over the bed for burning. Remove the

pieces left unburned. Water very well the nursery bed and compact the top with the aid of a spade or flat wood.

3. Line the bed with strings crossing one another, about 6 cm apart. Thrust a stick to make a hole at every intersection into which drop 3 seeds.

4. Cover with fine oil about 1 cm deep and press with the finger.5. Use spray water in watering so as not to dislodge the small seeds. Water only during

early morning and late afternoon. If it rains, put a roof over the seedlings.

Fertilizer

The best fertilizer for soil is compost (or decomposed farm wastes). In its absence, the following commercial fertilizer may be used as follows:

1. Mix 80 grams urea in 16 liters with 3 tablespoons Lannate-Benlate combination. Fungicide and pesticide may also be included. Spray every seven days.

2. When the seedlings are about 4 weeks old, pass a sharp knife through the rows, about 2 cm deep or more to make the branches grow from the main stem.

3. The seedlings can be transferred to the field in about 5 weeks.

Transplanting of Seedlings

1. Spray on the plants about 24 grams fertilizer (12-24-12) dissolved in a gallon of water, to ensure that the newly transferred plants will live.

2. Water the area well and ensure that the plants are rinsed.3. Make a hole about 9 cm square in compost, and plant the seedlings in it about 1/3

deep (of its whole length).4. For five days, water and cover with banana leaves during the day and remove the

cover at night.5. Cover the surrounding areas with straw, dried leaves or branches about 5 cm thick to

protect the area from erosion during rains and from drying up in the heat of summer. This also adds to the fertility of the soil and keeps it soft.

6. Always clear the area of weeds.

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Fertilizer

As much as possible, in the care of plants, it is best to have the soil analyzed at the Bureau of Soils Laboratory to know that fertilizer would be best to use. But if this is not possible, the most common way of spraying chemical fertilizer is as follows:

More or less, the equivalent of:

60 kilos nitrogen = 6 bags ammonium sulfate (20-0-0)129 kilos phosphorus = 13 bags solophos (0-20-0)96 kilos potassium + 3 bags muriate of potash (0=0=60)

In planting, apply all of the nitrogen and potassium, and half of the phosphoric (P) fertilizer. Apply the remaining half P when the plants are flowering.

1. Apply on tablespoon on either sides of the plants 10 cm away from the plant. Cover with fine soil 1 cm thick.

2. Water a little to make the fertilizer penetrate.3. If not watering or irrigation is possible, don't apply fertilizer because the roots will

anyway not benefit from it.4. To prevent lodging of water in the plants area, dig canals at the sides of the plots to

where the water will run. For every 10 m make it 30 cm wide and 40 cm deep so as not to injure the plants.

Watering

Irrigation for pepper is not very necessary if these will be planted in September and October when there is rain. But if planted in summer, irrigation is necessary. Don't let the ground crack in dryness.

Always wet the surrounding area of the plant especially at the base where the roots are the mouth of the plant.Support

In rainy weather when the plants are flowering, put up props to support the pepper fruits from lowering to the ground.

Pruning Prune the plants and remove dead branches and stems and excessive leaves to promote good fruit bearing.

Pests

The pepper plant's enemies are pests, diseases and excessive exposure to heat during summer. The last is helped by covering the fruits with cut grasses or tying leaves and branches to shade the fruits from the sun's heat.

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Harvesting Harvesting depends on the needs of the consumer. If it is for the market, the fruits are harvested while still green; if it is to be processed, it should be red or half red before picking. 1. Pick the pepper fruits toward evening. Trim, wash and wipe, and arrange according to

sizes.2. Ripening of immature pepper can be hastened if sprayed with ethrel or stored in 20°C-

25°C and 85-90% humidity. To prolong its shelf life, paint it with molten candle.3. Harvest every 5 days. On the 5-8 day, harvest is most abundant. This will further

increase if weeds around the plant are kept controlled, fertilizer applied, and maintained with adequate watering.

Drying of Seeds If the seeds are intended for immediate planting, they can be planted from the fresh pepper. But if planting will be in the next season yet, these should be stored properly.

1. Get seeds only from healthy and good ripe pepper. Dry these in the sun for 3 days (about 6% humidity left).

2. Don't expose in the sun when the heat is most intense (from noon to 2:00 pm).

3. In storing the seeds in a jar with cover, put powdered charcoal at the bottom, about 2½ cm thick, which will absorb the humidity. Cover this with a perforated cardboard and put it on the seeds.

4. Allow 2 cm space from the lid.5. Cover with a perforated cardboard again and put fine charcoal on it before putting on

the lid.

6. Close with a tape and open only when the seeds are ready for planting.

Source: Philippine Farmers' Journal October 1981

WHEAT

Can we grow wheat in the Philippines? According to agriculturists from the U.P. at Los Baños, wheat CAN BE GROWN and made to bear grains in the Philippines in the following manner:

1. Wheat likes hot days and cold nights and adequate rain.2. This can be planted in elevated soil, in 2 rows.3. The fertilizer it likes best is 100 - 60 - 60.

The maximum harvest reached is 100 kilos per hectare or according to variety.4. The effective herbicides against weeds are Machete 6 EC and 2, 4-D ipe.5. Sorghum can be planted together with wheat.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews, February 1984

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SOYBEANS

World demand for soybeans is great, and the Philippines is in fact spending millions of dollars for its import. Some of the uses of soybeans are for the manufacture of sotanghon, tahu, tokwa, bean curd, soy sauce, beverage (like milk) and many others.

A good harvest of soybeans depends on the quality of the seed planted and if this variety is acclimated to the soil where it is planted, as in Cagayan.

Planting

In the heights of Cagayan, soybean is planted toward the end of November until the end of December.

This grows while the weather is cold and is harvested around March until the middle of April.

Land preparation is the same as the preparation done for other crops. The hills are about 25 cm apart from one another.

1. Mix one-half kilo Rhizobium with (wet) 60 kilos of soybean seeds.

This is enough for a hectare if this is irrigated or planted in the lowland with a body of water nearby (river).

By the sea, it is necessary to add two bags of Amphos for every hectare 21 days after germination.

So it is less costly to plant soybeans in the lowland near a river.

2. As in other plants, pest and diseases and weeds must be controlled and maintained with watering until after harvest.

3. Harvest of soybean is usually 20 times the initial investment -- about 800 kilos to 1,500 kilos of dry seeds every hectare.

If the soil is good and maintained seasonally in its growth, harvest may be as high as 3,000 kilos per hectare, as has been proven by some planters.

Source: Farming --Update January-March 1989

YAM (UBI)Yam or ubi is known throughout the world. It is a vine and so it needs support to climb on. Its fruit is violet or light purple. The temperature it likes is 25 oC - 30 oC, and grows well if watered throughout its life. The soil it likes best is loose and with good drainage.

It is good to plant yam between April and May when the sun is abundant. When the day is long, it has plenty of leaves and branches. When the day is short, the development of the fruit is good. The variety "kinampay" is of superior quality because of its aroma, taste and violet color. This is powdered and used in the manufacture of ice cream.

Preparation of the Land for Planting

1. As in other crops, plow and harrow two times to make the soil loose. Remove all weeds and growths.

2. When the field is clean, make small hills about 10 cm high 1 meter apart from each other where the ubi will be planted.

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Preparation for Planting

1. A few days before planting, cut up the ubi about 150-200 gms size (125 gms if kinapay is to be planted).

2. Apply ash on the white part to keep from infection, or soak in Benlate solution about 20-30 minutes.

Planting1. Plant the ubi pieces when growth starts to come out.2. Plant these in the prepared hills about 75 cm apart.

Support

1. Ubi needs support for climbing. Thrusts branches of wood or bamboo about 2 - 1/4 m high, and tie together the ends of every two adjacent poles.

2. Always remove weeds around the plants.

Fertilizer

Ubi likes nitrogen and potassium. Apply fertilizer one month after germination. Apply complete fertilizer or 14-14-14 NPK 2 months after planting, 4 sacks per hectare.

Harvesting

1. About 8 months after planting, plow the ubi one or 2 months after it is matured - when the leaves turn yellow.

2. Dig up around the root crop, lift up the whole ubi and cut the vine.Storing

1. Apply ashes on the ubi crop where it was bruised to keep it from rotting.2. Store this in a shady and sandy place free from being wet.3. Don't stack up one on top of the other.

Other ways of Storing: Under the ground

1. Dig a deep hole, place here the ubi and cover with the soil.2. Provide the shade over the place by putting coconut leaves. Always inspect because in

this way, it is not adequately aired.

Source: Greenfield March 1991From: Extension Communication Division

Visayas State College of Agriculture, Baybay, Leyte

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FARMING IN BASKET

In arid lands or mountainous places, or lahar covered areas, it is possible to grow plants and enable them to yield fruits if these will be planted in baskets or "bayong." This is done in places where soil is not good. For instance in the Basque province, farmers get soil from another place and bring it over to their place to grow plants.

Material:

basket or bayong to contain the seedlingfertilizer (organic or chemical)plantingbamboo pole (3 ft) for irrigationhoe for digging

Manner of Planting

Mix up in bulk, use weights and measures

7 parts soil 4 parts lahar or ash 4 parts lahar or ash2 parts fertilizer 4 parts soil 5 parts soil1 part urea 1 part fertilizer 1 part urea

1 part urea

Soil and fertilizer may be mixed in any proportion

1. Dig a hole in the ground large enough to contain the basket in its full size.2. Carefully remove the plastic bag of the seedling to be planted; avoid crumbling the soil

that envelops the roots.3. Pour into the basket bottom soil: 1 can (kerosene can) to serve as support and

foundation for the seedling.4. Place the seedling in the center of the basket and5. Pour in more of the mixture of soil and fertilizer until filled.6. Prepare the bamboo pole: Puncture the nodes to let water pass through, except the last

node and about 8 inches from the bottom, and7. Sharpen the tip of the bamboo to be thrusted into the ground.8. Make one-inch hole at the bottom side where a bamboo straw will be inserted to serve

as outlet for the water for irrigation, and so as to control the water going to the plant.9. To make the plant always moist, put around the plant dried grass or straw.10. Vegetables like pechay, tomatoes, eggplants and similar short term plants may also be

planted beside it.

Source: Bureau of Soils and Water Management, Department of Agriculture, 1993

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BOOK III - PLANTS FOR A LIFETIME (back to main page)

CoffeeCacaoKapokCashewCastor BeansRubber TreeGrapes

COFFEE

There are more than 40 species of coffee, but only four of these are commercially cultivated in coffee producing countries. These are:

1. Arabica - considered the best quality coffee because of its excellent flavor and aroma.

This grows in cool places with an elevation of 1,200-1,800 above sea level. The shrub is rounded and smaller than Robusta Liberica and Excelsa trees.

The lateral branches are opposite in arrangement, horizontal and in pairs. The leaves are dark glossy green on the upper surface and light green underneath, about 12-14 cm long and about 56 cm wide, oval or elliptical, short at the base and somewhat undulating.

Flowers are fragrant, white or creamy with short red peduncles. Berries are oblong ellipsoid, about 1.5 cm long green when immature and

turning red or yellow, depending on maturity. This variety bears fruit within 2-3 years from planting. However, its weakness

is its susceptibility to coffee rust and is exacting in soil and climatic requirements.

A well managed farm with full grown trees can yield about a metric ton of dried beans per hectare.

2. Robusta - is high yielding and more resistant to pests and diseases. When grown in areas with an elevation of from 600-1,200 above sea level, maximum production can be attained.

The plant is umbrella-shaped (with semi-rounded canopy). The leaves are thinner than those of Excelsa, and may vary in shape -- some oval with obtuse base, apex with a culminate tip, and the margin is wavy with prominent venation.

The flowers are white with 4-6 petals. The berries are smaller than those of Arabica and closely clustered, blood red

when ripe, some solid red and others with stripes of dark or light red. The pulp and parchment are thin. Bearing starts on its third year from

transplanting. One hectare could yield more than a metric ton green beans on the seventh

(7th) year after transplanting.

3. Liberica - is locally known as "Kapeng Barako"

The tree is upright with straight trunk, weedy and grows as high as 9 meters. The leaves are thicker than those of Excelsa, twice as long as those of Arabica and leathery in texture, about 20 cm long and 10 cm broad with a narrower base.

The berries are largest among the four varieties round or oval, borne singly or in small clusters and with thick and firm pulp. They are dark red when ripe.

This species is tolerant to drought and can grow in a wider type of soil. It begins bearing fruits 4-5 years after transplanting.

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4. Excelsa - trees are similar to that of Liberica except that the internodes are shorter. Older leaves are smoother, thinner and more round with smooth edges, while the young leaves are usually bigger than those of Arabica, but smaller than Liberica's.

Berries are ovoid, little bit compressed with a flat form and borne in heavy clusters. This variety could be grown on sea levels to 600 meters above sea level.

Bearing fruits starts 4-5 years after transplanting.

Soil & climate requirements

Coffee is a hardy plant and can grow anywhere in the Philippines but best at elevations of 600-1000 meters above sea level.

Land should be flat and gently sloping for good drainage. For sloping land: gradient must be 10-15% for short slopes; 35% gradient for long slopes.

Coffee likes loamy, rich soil, rich in potash, calcium and magnesium and plenty of humus. A pH of 4.5-5.6 is favorable. About 1½ meters deep surface soil with good water holding capability is good; it prefers volcanic origin and virgin forests. Heavy clay soils should be avoided for coffee.

It needs free air movement of light breeze and a good distribution of rainfall.

Coffee wants 13 hours daylight length. Beyond this, it will not flower.

PROPAGATION

Seeds

For a hectare of land, 3/4 kilo seeds of Robusta is generally enough. Allowance is 50% for non-germination.The seeds must be from a disease-free, high yielding and regular bearing tree.

Select choice ripe berries from the middle of the tree not from the top or butt.

To select viable seeds:

1. Put berries in a bucket of water, stir; discard those that float.2. Pulp the berries by pressing them with a flat wood on cement floor (or by the use of a

pulping machine).3. Separate the pulp and soak the beans in water for 24 hours to hasten removal of

mucilage. Wash and discard those that float.4. Air dry the beans for at least four (4) days. Dried parchment must be kept in a cool dry

place, or mix with charcoal to preserve viability. Germination takes 45-50 days from sowing.

Sowing

1. Seeds are first sown on a seedbed, more or less 1 meter depending on the number of seeds.

2. As in all sowing, pulverize the soil, remove roots, grasses, stones, etc.3. Elevate the plot about 6 inches to facilitate drainage during rain.4. Sow the seeds along shallow rows across the seedbed, about 3/4" deep, about 4"

apart. Cover with fine top soil.5. Water seeds regularly -- not too wet. Mulch to prevent excessive evaporation.6. Remove mulch when seedlings emerge, this is about 45-50 days.

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7. Put a shade of about 18-24 inches about the plot to protect the plants from too much heat -- something like a "balag" of coconut fronds or cogon.

8. Thin out and prick seedlings if they become too crowded while still in the cotyledon stage. This will produce sturdy and good plant materials.

9. Select only healthy seedlings, and put them in individual plastic bags, perforated at the bottom for drainage.

Other Ways of Propagation

Coffee can also be propagated by cloning (branches)

1. Split lengthwise into halves a finger-sized vertical shoot about a foot long with 4-6 nodes. Cut the leaves partially before splitting.

2. Set the nodal cutting in germination boxes, 1"x1" apart and 1" deep.3. Then place the boxes in a germination chamber. The cuttings will produce roots and

shoots within 45 days.

Transfer into individual plastic bags with soil, with drainage hole at the bottom. This will become a full grown seedling with 4-6 pairs of leaves in 6-8 months.

Plants raised this way bear fruit earlier than those grown from seeds. It will bear fruit about 18 months after transplanting.

Fertilization of Seedlings

When some leaves turn yellow, this is a sign that there is nutrient deficiency.

To remedy:

dissolve 2 tbsp ammonium sulfate or 1 tbsp urea in 1 gal water and sprinkle on the seedlings.

or spread evenly 2 pinch of fertilizer at 1½" around the stem (water to dissolve) once a month.

Increase this rate up to the time the seedlings are 16-24 inches high with 4-6 pairs of leaves.This is about 8-12 months and now ready for transplanting.

Spray chemical to protect the plants from pests/diseases.

Land Preparation

If a coffee plantation is intended, the open field should be plowed two times and harrowed to check the growth of seeds.

Other annual crops may also be planted between trees.

Make holes in preparation for seedling transfer. The distance of the holes from tree to tree depends on the kind of coffee to be planted.

The following are experts' recommendations:

VARIETY DISTANCE IN METERS

ARABICA 3x1 to 3x2 or 2x2x2x3 double rowROBUSTA 3x1½ to 3x3 or 2x2x2x4 double row

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LIBERICA AND EXCELSA 4X5 to 5x5½ m If the terrain is rolling, hedge planting is recommended. This may consist of 1,2 or 3 rows of coffee bushes spaced 2 meters between rows with 3 or 4 meters between groups of 2 or 3 rows. a) for land less than 15" slope -- 3 row hedges with 4 m spacing between hedges. b) for land with °15-30° slopes, 2 row hedges with 3 m space between hedges. c) over 30° slopes, single row hedge.

A multi-storey cropping system can be done wherein plants of different heights and rooting patterns are grown together.

Shade Trees and Wind Breaks

A coffee plantation must have permanent and temporary shade trees, This is especially so during the early stages of development in lower elevations and warmer regions. As the trees grow and develop self shading, gradual elimination of the shade trees should be done. In higher altitudes or cooler regions, this is not necessary. Instead, wind breaks must be perpendicular to the usual path of strong winds. To lessen wind effects, strip rows of ipil-ipil or plant other fast growing and sturdy species of tall leguminous trees.

Holing and Transplanting

1. Transplanting is best done at the start of the rainy season. Holes must be large enough to accommodate the ball of earth, intact with the roots of the seedlings.

2. Before placing the seedlings in the hole, return the top soil into the hole plus 2-3 tbsp phosphorus fertilizer well mixed with the soil.

Plant Management

1. Weeding and Mulching

- Remove weeds, one of the enemies of plants that suck the nutrients and moisture from the soil and sometimes harbor pests and diseases.

Mulching is necessary for unshaded coffee especially in dry areas with light texture soil. This conserves soil moisture and suppresses the growth of weeds, keeps soil temperature constant, and minimizes soil erosion and adds organic matter to the soil.

Heavy mulching in young coffee plants increases by yields by about 72%.

2. Fertilization

Recommended application: equal amounts of NPK and ammonium sulfate or urea.

250-300 grams/tree/yearFor bearing trees 7 years and above:1 kilo of 14-14-14-/tree/year andurea side dressed 300 grams/tree/year

In area with type IV climate, fertilization application must be divided.

In places with 2 pronounced seasons, apply the recommended amount in 2 applications: at the start and before the end of the rainy season (May or June, and November-December).

For non-bearing trees 1-3 years old:

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make a furrow 5 cm deep around the plant, using the periphery of the crown as a guide.

place the recommended fertilizer mixture in continuous band and cover the furrows with soil.

For bearing trees (7 years old and above), 2 methods may be done:

for sloping land -- localized placement:♦ apply the fertilizer in holes or trenches made around the trees at the area

between the periphery of the crown and 1½ m from the distance of the base.

for level land -- broadcast the fertilizer:Amount: 35 kg nitrogen

7 kg P2O5

50 kg K2O

The above is enough for the removal by a yield of 1,000 kilos of market coffee or beans, but additional nutrients are required for vegetative development.

One hectare of fast growing, high yielding coffee trees will take up at least:

135 kg N 34 kg P2O5

145 kg K2O

Coffee needs nitrogen and potassium to keep the producing trees in good condition. These also control die-back.

Pruning and Rejuvenation

Undesirable water sprouts, excess and dead branches must be removed regularly to attain maximum yield.

Sound pruning must be done after heavy fertilization to regulate fruit bearing and now being branches for the next crop.

Advantages of pruning: (best done before general flowering or after harvest)

-- it regulates the height of the tree-- facilitates harvesting-- promotes better aeration and light penetration-- minimizes occurrences of pests diseases-- reduces expenses on chemical sprays

Rejuvenation

Old plants should be rejuvenated:

1) Cut old trees one foot above the ground.2) Complement this with heavy application of nitrogen fertilizer to induce growth of new

vertical stems after which selective pruning is done.

This method has more advantages than planting new ones because initial production can be attained earlier, while with seedlings, fruit bearing starts 3-4 years after transplanting.

Pest and Disease Control

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The pest most destructive and hard to control is the coffee borer. It can destroy a crop totally if allowed to thrive.

Coffee rust is most prevalent in the Philippines, and Arabica is most susceptible to this disease. Robusta is more resistant, but Liberica and Excelsa are most tolerant to the disease. The best to minimize coffee rust is to plant highly resistant varieties (introduced from India) coupled with fungicide spray.

In Davao, regular spraying of insecticides: Dieldrin, Thiodan, Aldex, Sevin and Endrin greatly reduced the infestation at an interval of 14-21 days, or equivalent to 4-5 times spray during the fruiting season.

Harvesting and Post Harvest Operations

Maturity

Coffee berries mature in 6-8 months after blossoming. But maturity of berries is greatly influenced by various environment factors so that ripening and harvesting vary from region to region.

In Mindanao, Arabica varieties flower from June to May so the berries are harvestable from August to December.

In Luzon, coffee trees blossom after the first heavy rain in May and June; picking of Arabica and Robusta falls in late December up to March; Excelsa and Liberica, later.

Harvesting

As the berries turn red, harvesting is generally done by printing. In Mindanao however, farmers pick the green mature berries to avoid further damage done by coffee berry borer.

Processing

After harvest, the berries are processed by either wet or dry methods.

Wet method involves: pulper, ferminating boxes or demucilating machine and dryer -- usually employed in big coffee farms where harvest is in bulk:

1) The fresh berries are depulped2) Beans are fermented 14-24 hours

ARABICA & ROBUSTA 14-16 hoursLIBERICA & EXCELSA 24-24 hours

In big modern coffee farms, these are no longer fermented but the beans are demucilated in a machine where the slimy substance is removed. Then the beans are washed and dried in the sun or hot air system.

Sun drying -- parchment coffee is spread on cement pavement or bamboo mats, 5-6 day for Arabica and Robusta.

In Southern Tagalog, the method requires 8-14 days to obtain good quality beans.

In the hot air method, the beans are dried in a much shorter time, but this needs specialized skills. The temperature must rise gradually, especially in the first 4-6 hours, or else, the end quality will be adversely affected.

In both systems, occasional turning of the beans is important to have uniform dryness.

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The dry method is widely practiced in Luzon and Mindanao although hot air is adopted in Davao (to avoid the coffee borer) which they call "ganganga" or "tapahan."

The berries are dried within 4 hours and effectively kills the eggs, larvae and adults of the berry borers.

However, overdrying the beans affect the quality of the beans.

Preparation for marketing

a) Hulling and cleaning -- the dried parchment coffee or berries are milled, winnowed and sorted.

A coffee huller machine with blower, separator and grader attachment is more efficient than a rice or corn mill. The beans are instantly cleaned and classified according to size.

b) Sorting and grading

The beans are further sorted by hand to have a better price. Broken, black beans and foreign matters (twigs, wood, unshelled berries, etc.) are removed.

The sizes of green beans pass through different sieves to classify the bulk according to standard grades.

In modern coffee grinder machine, the bulk is placed inside a slightly tilted sieve of different mess whereby the beans pass through from one end of the grader to another. Then, hand sorting can be done easier and faster.

c) Marketing

Coffee beans or oven fresh or dried berries are sold easily. Middlemen approach during harvest. Some growers dispose of their produce in forms of green beans or dried berries, but in some, dried berries to millers who process, sort, grind and sell to exporters, roasters or manufacturers.

d) Storage

Coffee can be stored for a longer period, either as green beans, parchment coffee or dried berries as long as the moisture content does not exceed 14%; and in a well-kept bodega.

Proper storage produces a "harsh coffee quality," which means a better price.

e) Roasting, Blending and Use

Roasting must be properly done or else, the quality of the end product will be adversely affected.

Home made coffee is produced by gradual heating and constant stirring of the green beans in a frying pan until the desired brown color is obtained.

In a big coffee plant, the beans are heated in a revolving container until the standard brown color is attained.

During the process, the beans lose about 18% of their original weight, but the bulk is increased by 30-50%.

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Blending improves aroma and flavor of coffee. The Philippine Roaster Association claims that the standard blend for instant coffee is about 40% Arabica and 60% Robusta.

Blended or prepared coffee powder should be kept in well cleaned, dried and air-tight containers to prevent absorption of moisture, which deteriorates its quality.

f) Brewing and Serving

To brew ground coffee, it is best to boil the water before putting in the coffee powder. Stir and cover the brewing pot, remove from the heater and let it settle for about 8-12 minutes before serving.

Source: Plant Industry Production Guide (28) Coffee Bureau of Plant Industry Manila

CACAO

Cacao seeds are borne in pods that hang from the branches of the cacao tree. When the red pods become deep red or hen yellow-orange and green pods become yellow, they are ready for harvest.

When processed, the seeds or beans are used as flavoring materials and as chocolate beverage. These are also used in the manufacture of cosmetics and pharmaceutical products.

Local supply of cacao is inadequate for our industrial needs so most local processors of cacao and chocolate products have to import cacao beans and cacao grindings.

The common varieties of cacao in the Philippines are the following:

A. Criollo -- this comes in three (3) types: Venezuela, Nicaragua and Trinidad.

♦ It is considered best for its flavor and aroma, but is susceptible to pests and diseases, so it is avoided.

♦ The pod is elongated, thin-husked and pointed, usually with constriction near the base.

♦ The ridges of the pods are pronounced and sharper than those of Forastero.♦ The pods come in two (2) colors: white when ripe is generally yellow, while

those of the red criollo change from purple to yellowish orange.♦ The Seeds are pale yellowish white or pinkish yellow.

B. Forastero -- Amazonian and Amelonado are among the Forastero.This is more resistant to insect pests and diseases, and other adverse conditions than Criollo.

Oftentimes, this is more productive.

♦ The pod has smooth appearance, less rounded in tip and square base.It is larger in size than the Criollo.♦ The color is purple or dark, becoming yellowish between the ridges as it

matures.♦ The seeds are large, somewhat rounded, and the color is purple or with

purplish tinges.

C. Trinitario -- is a cross between Criollo and Forastero with features similar to Criollo (this exhibits the characteristics of a hybrid and is perhaps the richest source of materials for the improvement of cacao for breeding).

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♦ famous for its well-balanced conditions of hardiness and quality products.

The seeds are variable in character.

D. Upper Amazonian Hybrid (Malaysian or Sabah Hybrid).

♦ early bearing, high yielding and more vigorous.

Soil Requirements

The better the soil structure, the deeper the root penetration and therefore the greater the volume of soil is exploited by the roots for moisture and nutrient uptake.

Clay loam soil of good structure is best for cacao since the aggregate of sand, silt and clay provides large pore spaces for aeration and drainage, and at the same time retain moisture.

Organic matter in the surface layer is important for cacao growth.To preserve the organic layer, the soil must be well shaded to slow down the rate of natural breakdown of waste leaves.

Cacao is not good for water-logged areas or places with prolonged drought.Soil is favorable if ph is 6.0-7.1 A ph value 4 or less is not suitable for cacao.

Where bananas and corn grow luxuriously, it is a sign that cacao will grown successfully in that place.

Climatic Requirements

Cacao is strictly a tropical plant; it grows mostly within 10° of the Equator (lat 20°N and 20°S).

♦ within temperature of 20°C (between 22°C-32°C) Cold limit is 21°C, not lower than 15°C at coldest month and an absolute minimum of 10°C.

♦ For hot limits, temperature ranges from 38°C-40°C: growth is abnormal at a constant temperature above 31°C, although good growth can be had up to 35°C, with a fluctuating temperature between day and night.

Elevation - Cacao thrives up to 1,000 meters above sea level as long as temperature is not lower than 21°C.

Ideal elevation is 600 m above sea level.

Rainfall - if the monthly rainfall drops below 10 cm per month, cacao will suffer water stress, leaves begins to fall.

♦ Areas under Type IV climate are suited for cacao production provided these are not within the typhoon belt areas.

Relative Humidity - cacao needs humid temperature; a relative humidity of about 80% as in a tropical forest or that provided by an artificial shade.

Thus, cacao needs shade for growing.

Propagation and Care

The most common way of propagating cacao is by seeds.Other ways are by cutting, budding or marcotting. Hybreed seeds are recommended.

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Seed Selection

If hybrid seeds are not available, seeds for planting must be well selected, that is, they must come from big pods obtained from trees that are highly productive, bearing regularly and free from pests and diseases.

Size of pod is determined by using a pod index, i.e. number of pods to make a kilo of dried beans.

If 25 pods yield one kilo dried beans, this is considered good-sized pods.

Fresh seeds must be large and weigh at least 2.5 grams including mucilage.

Criolle seeds or hybrids with high criolle character must be avoided because of its susceptibility to pests and diseases.This can be checked through the seed color after the seed coat is removed.Non-Criolle variety is violet.Violet cacao seeds are generally that of Trinitario or Forastero.

Seed Planting

Cacao seeds do not last long, so they must be planted soon. They germinate as soon as the fruits ripen. Some germinate even while in pods.

Seeds are viable normally until up to six (6) days after harvest; viability may be extended up to 8-10 weeks if the pods are stored at 21°C-24°C.

1. To have uniform germination, the mucilage embedded on the seed coat, which contains germination inhibitor, must be removed. This is done by putting the seeds in a bamboo basket for a day during which time the mucilage softens.

2. Rub the seed with dry sand or sawdust, then wash.

3. After removing the mucilage, spread the seeds in wet gunny sacks under shade and keep moist.

4. When the radicle breaks through the seedcoat, the seeds are ready for planting in polyethylene bags (earlier arranged in beds of about 1 meter wide and any convenient length). A one-meter wide space between beds should be provided to facilitate watering, weeding, fertilization, pest and disease control, etc.

5. Bags must be perforated at the bottom for drainage. The longer the time the seedlings will be kept in the nursery, the bigger the bags must be.

For 3-4 months = size 6"x8" bags4-6 months = size 8"x12" bags

Care of Seedlings

Light - initial shade intensity is about 80%.Nurseries must be protected from direct sunlight and strong wind.

• Coconut leaves may be used for the purpose. After the first whorl of leaves has hardened, reduce the shade gradually.

• Reduce the light to 50% from 6 weeks-8 weeks from germination.

Water - watering must be early mornings and afternoons.

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• Take care not to saturate the rooting medium.

Discard poorly developed seedlings.

When leaves are pale, it means the plant has nutrient deficiency. Apply weekly: 15 grams urea or 30 grams ammonium sulfate dissolved in one gal of water for 200 seedlings.

To protect the seedlings from pests and disease, spray with fungicide or insecticide if necessary.

After 4-6 pairs of leaves have come out (6-8 months old) the seedlings are ready for transplanting.

Remove shade gradually one month before transplanting to harden the seedlings and prepare them for field conditions.

Land Preparation

If the soil is forest land with a good amount of organic matter on the surface layer, no tillage is necessary. However, if cash crops are to be planted along with cacao, a thorough preparation is necessary.

Plow and harrow the land at least 2 times to pulverize the soil well and suppress the growth of weeds.

Roads and Drainage

In rolling lands, base contour lines are first established to serve as guide in the establishment of roads, drains and rows of cacao and shade trees.

Lay out main roads and in-plantation roads adequately to facilitate management and minimize operational costs.

Main roads may be established horizontal to in-plantation roads and laid out a convenient distance of about 100 meters apart, and in-plantation roads may be set at about 50-75 m apart.

Distance of Planting, Staking and Planting System

Some studies recommend that cacao can be laid in rows 2 meters apart if in open areas, while under coconut trees 2.5 m away from the base.

Another study favors close planting followed by thinning, as advantageous as higher yield per unit area is obtained earlier, and farmers have a chance to eliminate or top-work less productive trees.

Other studies even recommend 3x3 m or 3x4 m apart.

Staking

Align cacao rows by using thin rope or string as planting guide, wherein distances desired are properly identified with a knot or other marks. As this guide is stretched across the field, pegs are driven though where the markers are set, until the whole area is laid out with pegs or stakes.

In sloping land, hedge planting can also be employed.

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For land less than 15° slope, 3-row hedge with 4 m space between hedges; for land with 15°-30° slope, 2-row hedge with 4 m space between hedges; and one-row hedge for slopes up to 35°.

Temporary shade trees are grown 6-12 months ahead of cacao to provide shade to the seedling at planting time.

These may be banana, ipil-ipil, or madre de cacao (kakawate).

In spots or points previously staked for shade trees, sticks of madre de cacao are about 1.5 m long, or 3 months old giant ipil-ipil are planted.

Where overhead shade is insufficient, 3-5 seeds of rapidly growing temporary shade plants are sown, 2 ft. from the cacao seedlings at right angle to the row of cacao to provide low shade for longer period.

Planting

1. Prepare the hole 2 weeks before planting to air the soil.2. When planting, remove the plastic bag and plant the seedling into the hole.3. Cover the hole with top soil and press gently.4. Apply 25 grams (1 tbsp.) complete fertilizer (14-14-14) 10 cm away from the plant

around.

Care must be taken in the transport of seedlings from the nursery to the field to avoid planting shock. Shock is intense when the seedlings are kept in the nursery up to the time the tap root forces its way through the bottom of the bag.

Maintenance

1. Place any organic mulching material (coco husk, dried leaves) about the plant to conserve moisture and minimize weed growth.

2. Apply fertilizer 30 gms ammonium sulfate three (3) months after planting.3. Remove weeds around the base of the plant within a radius more or less the length of

the lateral branches.In manual weeding, take care not to injure the surface roots of the cacao plant.In using sprayers for herbicide application, take care not to use the sprayer for other chemicals like insecticides to avoid herbicide residues to the plant.

Herbicide formulation: in 150 liters water 1-3 liters of Ansar (MSMA) in 2.3 kg sodium chlorate

Be careful not to allow spray drift into the plants. It is enough that weeds are controlled in a strip of 1 m beyond the spread of the cacao canopy.

Repeat spraying before 50% weed regrowing.

In the 3rd year from transplanting, the complete canopy of the cacao tree restricts the development of weeds, and very little weed control is necessary.

A good mulch around each plant prevents weeds. Cut weeds and other farm residues are good mulch materials. Mulching also lowers soil temperature and evaporation, protects the soil against erosion, improves the physical condition of the soil, provides plant nutrients.

Fertilization

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1. Apply 20-30 gms ammonium sulfate in a shallow trench around each plant 2-3 months after transplanting.

2. In the first year, apply 200-300 gms per tree the following:ammonium sulfate - 5 parts (or urea: 2.5 parts)single superphosphate - 5 partspotassium sulfate - 2 partsmagnesium sulfate - 1 part

3. In the second, third and fourth year, increase the fertilizer to 450, 600 and 900 gms per tree, respectively.

Divide the recommended quantity in 2 or more equal parts.

Apply the first part at the start of the rainy season and the rest at equal intervals later in the season. If the above fertilizers are not available, complete fertilizer 14-14-15-15 (N-P-K-Mg) will do just as well.

Apply one half of the quantity given above, that is,225 gm per tree for year 2300 gm per tree for year 3450 gm per tree for year 4

Pruning

One year after transplanting, branches come out. The first pruning is done to control the height at which the first branch (sometimes called jorquette) is formed.

This first branch must be at leat 5 ft, or else, harvesting and maintenance will be greatly hindered, that is, spraying and harvesting.

When 5 or more branches have grown, prune the weak ones leaving only 3 or 4 well-developed branches.

Pruning is done with a sharp saw, during dry months (or after harvest). This controls the shape and height of the tree to facilitate work.

Surfaces that have cuts must be painted with coal tar or lead paint.

Fan branches in a jorquette must also be controlled.Overcrowding results in ineffective utilization of the sunlight. Leaves of overcrowded branches become liabilities rather than assets with respect to nutrition.

New growths appear at the cut surface after some time.Cut them early unless they are used to replace a dead or unhealthy branch.

All suckers (chupons) that may arise after pruning must be removed as early as possible. Avoid heavy pruning.

Reduce shade continually at the beginning of the second year until only 1/4 (25%) of its original cover is left at the beginning of the fourth year.

Harvesting

Harvest only mature pods. Pods are ready 170 days from pod setting when red pods turn deep red or yellowish orange, and green pods turn yellow.

A hollow sound is produced when pods are tapped as the seeds are separated from the inner walls of the pod.

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Use a sharp instrument (knife, bolo, scythe or shear) for harvesting. A knife attached to a pole could help in reaching the high branches.

Cut pods as close to the stem as possible, but take care not to hurt the flower cushions, pods and the tree itself.

Remove infested pods and separate beans collected from infested pods because these are inferior in quality. Fruits don't mature at the same time.

Harvest pods when they are at uniform ripeness, and prevent an exercise number of over ripe pods before the next harvest. Ten days to 3 weeks (10-21 days) intervals are recommended. About four (4) harvest cycles may be made per season.

Pod Breaking

After harvest, the pods are brought to the field for breaking by a wooden mallet. Then the beans are scooped out of the husk and the placenta removed.

Collect the beans in a container for fermenting.

Fermentation

The characteristic cocoa flavor and aroma are developed during fermentation.

During fermentation, the pulp breaks down with drainage of sweatings. With the rise in temperature, pulp sugar is fermented into alcohol. The bean dies and the seed color changes, developing into the nice chocolate flavor.

There are two ways of fermenting cocoa beans:

A. Wooden Basket Fermentation

For small planters where harvest is not so big for bigger containers.

1. Line the baskets with banana leaves, put beans inside it and cover.2. After 24 hours, transfer the beans to another (similarly lined) basket so as to mix it

thoroughly.3. Continue same process until the 6th or 7th day when fermentation will be complete.

B. Heap Fermentation

1. Spread banana leaves on the ground; heap the beans on the leaves and cover with banana leaves again.

2. Keep the leaves in place by putting wood weights on top. Repeat after 24 hours and so on until fermentation is complete when a brown ring appears at the edge of the cotyledon when cut crosswise. This takes 6-7 days.

C. Box Fermentation

For big plantations, wooden boxes have sides and bottom perforated for aeration and drainage of sweating. These are arranged side by side for convenience in transferring the beans from one box to another every 24 hours, mixing them thoroughly to have good fermentation.

Drying

After the beans are fermented, they are dried. Washing is not necessary.

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Drying should be slow and even, by occasional turning of the beans.

Collect the beans in the evening to avoid dew moisture. Spread them again next morning. Bamboo mats or nylon net are recommended.

Where sun drying is not possible due to weather, use artificial drier.

Storage

When the beans are dried, store them in loosely woven, jute bags; place them on wooden floor in clean, well ventilated room free from storage pests.

Don't store them with copra, hide or tobacco, etc., as these will contaminate their odor.

Quality Requirements of Cacao for Manufacturers

1. Size -- plump and even, with less than one gram fermented dry weight.2. Shell -- loose and intact.3. Cotyledon -- friable, open textured and chocolate brown with characteristic choco

flavor.

Nutritional Deficiency

Cherelle Wilt -- young pods or cherelle may wilt or ripen prematurely.

Cause: inadequate water supply and nutrient deficiency, especially when a large number of cherelle is found on the tree and the demand for nutrients and water is big.

To control:

♦ periodic application of fertilizer, especially potassium and phosphorus during fruit setting and leaf flush

♦ irrigation

PESTS AND DISEASES

A. Pests

1. Cacao pod borer (most serious pest especially in Mindanao)

Description:

Female is very small, about 7 mm long; Adult has greenish-brown forewings with yellow dots and white lines. Female lays eggs on the furrows of pods. Eggs hatch in 6-9 days. Larvae bore inside pods, feed on seeds. Become full grown 15-18 days, are 10-12 mm

long. They get out of the pod and pupate in small membranous cocoons on the leaves,

trunks and fruits. Pupal period is 5-8 days.

Damage:

Infected tissues harden and seeds don't develop properly. Later, pods turn black and become susceptible to fungal attack.

Control:

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Spray Sevin 85 WP 3-5 tbsp in 5 gal water; Wrap pod in plastic bag; or Endosulfan, chlorpyrifos or malathion are used at recommended dosages. Field cleanliness

2. Cacao Shot-hole Borer (Davao)

Description:

Tiny white beetle

Damage:

Larva attacks the base, usually 30 cm from the ground level of the plant.Barks are stained down.

Tree dies within a year.

Control:

Spray Thiodan 3-5 tbsp per 5 gal water,

3. Capsid (or mosquito bug)

Description:

8mm long nymphs are yellow adults are brownish-yellow eggs are laid singly or in pairs into the soft tissue of the young growing plants.

Damage:

Causes toxicosis of cacao in the Philippines Sucks the juice of pods, shoots and leaf stalks Causes water soaked lesions that rapidly turn black Lesions in pods are round while those on stems are usually oval and larger. Heavy attack on young pods prevent their maturation.Affected parts dry prematurely.

Control:

Spray Thiodan, endosulfan chlorpyrifos or Malathion at recommended dosages field sanitation collect and burn infected pods or stems.

4. Curculionid beetle

Description:

Adult is about 10 mm long, blackish blue with a t-shaped gray band at the back.

Damage:

Feeds on very young leaves and lays eggs at the base of the trunk, especially on wounds.

larvae are found at the lower part of the trunk where they bore through.

DISEASES

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1. Black Rot or Stem Canker

Description:

Characterized by round brown spots which enlarge concentrically and evenly Demarcation between healthy & affected areas is abrupt.

Damage:

Damaged tissues are soft and infected pods become black, hard and dry. A reddish brown liquid oozes on split bark of trunk or branches. spread may be thru direct contact, air current, rain or insects Damage is more severe during humid weather. An abundant downy growth of fungus is present at this time.

Control:

Remove infected stems and fruits, burn. Spray Dithane Z-78 at 40 gms/20 1 water during flower time every 2 weeks. Avoid heavy shading Do regular pruning of shade trees and maintain good drainage to reduce excessive

humidity.

2. Vascular streak - dieback (suspected fungus)

Description:

Brown streaks in the woody or vascular tissue.

Damage:

one or two leaves are yellowing on the 2nd or 3rd flush below the growing tip.

This develops into small sharply defined green spots scattered over a yellow background.

Diseased leaves fall, short lateral shoots grow from the leaf axils.

Unhardened leaves in the young flush of a diseased shoot may show an oak leaf pattern due to the death of tissue between the lateral vein.

3. Mold

Damage:

Most affected are beans which develop unpleasant flavor and are therefore useless. Affect germinated beans and improperly dried beans.

Control:

Keep beans in well ventilated place. Thoroughly dry beans and place in clean jute sack or polyethylene bags.

KAPOK (or Cotton Tree)(Celba pentandra, L.)

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The planting of kapok tree has been a neglected trade in our country. Its most important use is the cotton from its fruit, but it has a lot of other uses besides.

When the foam was not yet in use, kapok used to provide a means of living for some rural folks. Before World War II, although this was not a major industry, the Philippines used to be second to Java in exporting kapok. Now, there are very few kapok trees and still fewer who know its value.

Uses

1. Cotton from the kapok is the best material for pillows, mattresses, upholstered seats and similar uses because of its resiliency, i.e., its ability to bounce back or elasticity when compressed. And even after many years of use, mere exposure to air and sun makes it good again, unlike foam which gets flattened with use.

This is because the cells of kapok naturally contain air, unlike the artificial air of foam. Kapok cells are not water permeable, and it can carry 35 times own weight; thus, it floats on water.

2. Because of its lightness, it is used as stuffing material inside life savers and other life saving devices.

3. The sticky substance from its bark is cure for dysentery, hemorrhage and diabetes; its young fruit can be used as emollient or softener.

4. Oil from the seeds of the kapok can be used for cooking and for soap making.

5. The fibers of the kapok cotton can be spun into cloth, either alone or with shrub cotton fiber.

Because its fibers are glossy and smooth, this is used in making felt, plushes, lace and similar uses.

Planting

The kapok tree grows almost in any kind of soil, even in marginal soil (therefore it does not deprive other plants of space) although it is most fruitful in loamy or alluvial soil.

Kapok can be propagated by seeds, budding, grafting or stem cutting.

Harvest

Kapok bears fruit within three to four years, but is most fruitful in its 13th to 14th year. Its life span is about 70 years.

Source: PCARRD Monitor September 1982

CASHEW

Cashew is one of the most important edible seeds in the world, second only to almond because of its taste and phosphorus, Vitamin A and iron content. This was brought over to the Philippines from South America and India.

The world demand for cashew is big and supply is short. According to experts, we would need 3,000 hectares of land to plant cashew in to meet the demands for it betwen 1990-1995. This is not only for local consumption but for world export as well. The biggest consumer for cashew is the U.S. where 55-60% of our cashew export goes to, followed by Europe at 35%.

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Cashew is one of the 40 fruits that have a big foreign demand, but which cannot be met locally.

The cashew tree grows fast. It takes three years before it bears fruit if planted from the seed, but this can be reduced to 20 months if grafted from a fruit bearing tree. Each tree yields about 20 to 100 kilos, and lives up to forty years.

Cashew grows even on soil that is not fertile. It does not need much care or watering. It can be planted in marginal lands in preventing erosion.Its fruits can be eaten raw or dried, made into juice or wine. Fruits are eaten as vegetables or pickles, and young leaves made into salad.

But the most important is the seed. It contains light yellow oil, like almond oil. Its oil is used as protection against termite which is applied on posts, floors, beams and the like. This oil is also used as proofing in fish nets, bancas, and for water proofing wood and for gluing bamboo walls.

This also drives away insect pests if mixed with 95% kerosene. The oil from the bark is used as glue in the manufacture of paint and ink.

Source: Greenfields May 1990

CASTOR BEANS

The word "castor" is more commonly known as purgative. Unknown to many, castor is a seed from a vine that climbs as high as seven meters, and if allowed to be wild, can become a little tree. The stems are green or getting yellowish and hollow as they grow maturer or older. This flourishes in the East and North Africa, Yemen, North and Middle East. This was cultured in Egypt as early as 4000 B.C. and was brought to India and China about 618-906 A.D. Here in the Philippines, it is said that it has been growing even before the coming of the Spaniards, but has not been given attention because the fruits are small and there was no market for them.

Uses of Castor

Up to the 20th Century, the most-important use of castor was for medicine, especially as purgative. But now, the different parts of its fruit, as well as the whole tree, have many uses in industry.

The coat of the seed yields a substance used:

for painting and water proofing cloths and covers. for the manufacture of high quality lubricant and oils for motor, asphalt and tiles. for rubber uses, manufacture of soap, printing ink, dye for cloths and for strengthening

leather. its dried oil is good dehydrant and resembles tung oil which is used in making paint,

varnish, plastic, rayon and nylon. its dydrogenated oil, a variety of castor oil, is used in making floor wax and for gloss,

carbon paper, crayola, and candles. as a kind of nylon thread that is widely used in France and Brazil. for manufacture of liniments and cosmetics. its coat and waste are fertilizer stems are used as animal feed, but only after removing its poisonous resin in the stem. for the manufacture of paper, wall and fuel.

Soil and Climate

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Castor abounds in Mindanao. It grows in high elevations (460 meters above the sea level), uniform rain throughout the year, and soil with good drainage. It grows in any season.

Castor doesn't like much shade. The right temperature for it is 26.7°C more or less; beyond this, the leaves and flowers wilt and the tree will not bear fruit.

Planting

1. Castor is propagated by seed. Plant seeds only from healthy and fruitful trees.2. The seed must be matured, big and glossy, and without cracks or mold.3. In one hectare of land, it will need 2-4 kilos of seeds, about 80% of which will

germinate.4. To ensure a good percentage of germination and uniform sizes, treat the seeds first in

Arazan - 4 ounces for every 5 kilos of seeds. (This is to prevent the onset of infection) or as per advice of the agriculturist. In place of Arazan, the following may be used: Captan, Ceresan, Samesan or Brassical

5. Plow the field two times and harrow before planting.6. If planting will be yearly, put a 50 cm distance between rows or hills. If planting will

be permanent, the distance between plants must be 2½ meters between. If the soil is not fertile, make the distance 3m x 3m.

7. Plant the castor seed at the beginning of the rainy season or toward the end of May, or the beginning of June, or at the end of the rains in September-October before the onset of summer.

The seeds will germinate uniformly if these will be soaked in boiling water for 24 hours.

Plant the seeds in the hills or in holes about 2-3 seeds in each, if the variety is of 60-80% germination and 1-2 seeds if the variety is 85-90% germination.

Before planting the seeds, prepare the holes by putting about 30 gms complete fertilizer in each (14-14-14), about 10 cm deep. Cover this with 4 cm soil, put in the seeds and cover again with 5 cm soil.

The castor bean will germinate in 7-10 days.

Care and Maintenance

1. Pruning

In the first two months, the growth of castor is slow; start pruning only when it reaches about one foot high.

Remove all unnecessary leaves and growths from the base so that fruitful branches will grow.

In the first pruning, pinch off all ends of growths to produce branches. In the second pruning when the branch has grown about 75 cm (from the first pruning), pinch again all new growths in every branch. Repeat this process until the 4th month when the tree will soon have flowers.

Maintenance

The control of weeds is very important so as not deprive the tree of nutrients for fruit bearing. Constant clearing of weeds also keeps away insect pests and diseases.

Fertilizer

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Castor needs plenty of nitrogen, especially in its first growth. If nitrogen is deficient, the plant gets stunted and the leaves turn yellow. When the flowers and fruits dry and fall off, it is a sign of deficiency in potash.

For normal culture of a hectare of about 1,600 plant, a bag of 14-14-14 is needed.

A month after germination, apply nitrogen fertilizer (45-0-0) 125 grams per tree or 4 bags per hectare.

About three months after germination, before flowering, apply 16-20-0 fertilizer 250 grams per plant, or 8 bags per hectare.

Irrigation

In the Philippines, irrigation of castor is not normally done, but in wide plantations, this is necessary, according to the kind of soil, temperature of the place, wind movement, and length of time for germination.

Irrigation is necessary in light soil, windy place with warm temperature. This is not very necessary in cool, not so windy places and sticky soil. Big plantations are irrigated by means of canals.

Pests and Diseases

The worst enemy of the castor plant is the worm that eats the leaves of the young plant.

To control:

1. Gather the eggs and worms of the pest.2. Culture the soil shallow to make the pests come out.3. Spray with any pesticide (like Azodrin 202 REC, or Thiodan 35 EC) and follow

instructions on the label.

The pests of the castor plant are caused by too much rain or humidity, and from the soil that cause the rotting of roots of the young plant.

Thus, avoid planting castor in low and humid areas. Spray insecticides according to instructions.

Plant only varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests like the Brazilian variety.

Harvesting

1. The castor plant begins to flower in 4-5 months from planting. The first harvest is the sixth month, and monthly after for succeeding ones.

2. Harvest only the matured bean, when about 80% of the cluster is matured.3. Pick manually, or with a device for harvesting, but this is only for short trees (low

trees).4. A long pole 6-8 feet with a hook and a sack for catching is usually used. One who is

skillful in harvesting can gather about 50 kilos a day.5. The removal of the pod may be done manually or by machine. A hectare of plantation

with around 1,600 trees can yield about two 2.5 tons of castor seeds a year.

Drying and Storing Castor Beans

After the removal of the pods, the seeds are dried in the sun for about 2 days before storage. Spend them on canvass in a barn after drying, before storing them in sacks.

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The barn or bodega must be airy and/or with a good circulation of air to prevent the growth of molds.

The beans will last 6 months without losing their oil content. But if the beans are for planting, do not store them for more than 3 months.

Grading of Castor Beans (for export)

The grading of castor beans is based on its moisture content that should be only 6%; only 2% damaged seeds, and others not castor ½%.Commercialization

The following are buyers of castor beans:

Durano Marketing CorporationAgro-Industrial & Commercial Trading CorporationGuanzon Oil Trading CorporationDiaz and Co. (Davao City)M.C. Commercial Product Manufacturers (Valenzuela, Bulacan)Castor Oil Inc (Leon Guinto, Manila)Foreign markets are: Japan, Thailand, China, Equador, Paraguay, Sudan and

F.R. Germany

Kinds of Castor

1. Brazilian

grows in the Philippines, usually in Mindanao and Luzon according to soil quality, can grow as high as 6-8 ft stems are dark brown, about 2.5 cm in circumference; nodes are 10-20 cm

apart from each other. leaves are oblong flower salts are long, each containing about 50-100 capsules seeds are large, with 49.3% oil content

2. Bangkok

has brown spots, like Brazilian except that the seeds are smaller and with small brown spots at the back, and big brown spots in front. Its oil content is 49-56%

Bangkok with white spots, like Red Lamao, but with small spots spread on the back.

3. Ethiopia

seeds are larger than other varieties, colored red with white spots on either sides. It matures early. Oil content is 49-60%

4. Lamao Red

grows as high as 6-8 ft; the stems at the middle are about one inch long; colored reddish brown from base to end, and the distances of the nodes vary from 1-4 inches.

the seeds are small, about 5 mm thick, 6 mm wide and 100 mm long the longest branch can have about 3-20 branches that can bear 10-20 flowers,

depending on the number of branches from every mother branch.

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5. Inherently Philippine

We have plenty of castor growing here but the seeds are small and have no market value.

Source: Bureau of Plant Industry Field Trials Services Division Manila 1994

RUBBER TREE

World demands for rubber is big, but is hardly met. In our modern times, almost everything has some use for rubber. But not all places in the world can grow the rubber tree, so it is in our hands to develop and enhance this industry.

Climate

Rubber needs a warm and humid climate (about 30-35°C) and uniform rainfall throughout the year. It doesn't like torrents of rain or long dry spells.

Soil

The soil good for rubber is the lowland soil that does not lodge water. It doesn't grow in mountainous regions.

Planting

There are varieties of the rubber tree that are resistant to pest and diseases, and to wind, and the kind that yields a good amount of latex.

Seeds

It is easier to propagate rubber through grafting or budding than by seeds.

Seeds must come from a matured tree, in the months of August to October.

If the seeds will be transported to a far place, these should be wrapped well in perforated plastic (with air) and planted immediately.

Rubber likes loose, rich soil, possibly decayed sawdust or river sand. The nursery place must be near a body of water, about 15 cm elevation of land and shady, so as not to be expressed to intense sun or rain.

A thousand seeds can be accommodated in a square meter of seeding plot.

Planting

1. In planting, the flat side of the seed should be embedded in the soil.

Plant the seeds row by row, and cover with thin coco sawdust. Keep the plot moist but not wet. The seeds will germinate within 5 days to one week.

2. When the seeds germinate, transfer the seedlings to the place where they are intended to be grown. Seeds that germinate after two weeks should be discarded (not used).

3. Plant immediately because delay in planting causes the roots to curve or grow branches, which produces double shoots. Plant before it reaches 2½ cm high.

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4. The seedlings must be normally 30 cm apart from each other. Ensure that the main root is not cut or hurt.

5. Place the newly germinated seedlings in a pail of water with starter solution. The flat side of the germinated seed should be down, while the upper part of the seed is under the soil about 5 cm.

6. Apply NPK fertilizer until they can be transferred permanently in the field.

If the plant was grown first in the nursery, the maturity time of the tree is shortened, and it yields rubber sap (latex) more readily.

In general, for one just starting to plant rubber, the variety that grows fast should be selected, with applied technologies to make it mature in a short time, such as:

a. good soil for germinating b. good size of plastic bags wherein to place the new seedlings (perforated) c. proper use of fertilizer d. branching or removal of these (branches) e. propagating a new plant from its crown f. proper care.

Apply NPK fertilizer in 2-3 parts every hectare. Broadcast the fertilizer 10 cn away from the tree, and mix it with the soil. Always culture the soil around, water, but avoid its lodging.

Source: Greenfields July 1990

PROPAGATION OF RUBBER TREE BY GRAFTING

To start a rubber farm, two varieties of seedlings may be used in the nursery or in the field:

a) from the seeds of a superior kindb) from the branch or part of a good quality tree. In this way, the resulting plant is

assured to be good. Grafting may be difficult at first, but it can be learned in time.

In choosing a branch for grafting, only one good growth should be allowed to grow. Remove all the rest.

When the age of the branch is 10-15 months old, its circumference is about 2.5 cm and its body becomes woody, about 45 cm from the neck.

Get a shoot close to the new growth, or from the growths that were propagated in the nursery, by cutting the branches about 60-75 cm from the point of contact.

Leave 3-5 strong main branches. When these grow and become woody, cut again so that new shoots will grow that can be cut in the future.

Prune the horizontal branches above the cluster of shoots, about 6 weeks before getting shoots from it.

The receiving tree must be 4-8 months if a young shoot will be grafted. Get only from a good quality tree for this.

Budding

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There are two ways of budding or branching the young (green) branch and the mature growth that is woody.

The receiving tree in budding should be planted first and allowed to grow as big as a finger if the bud to be inserted is a young growth, and one inch or more if the bud is woody.

In budding a woody branch, plant this first in soil because it is too large to plant it in a plastic bag, unlike budding a young branch (usually 18" long and 5'7" thick) where it is grown first in plastic bags.

Land Preparation -- one month preparation

1. Plow the field and let it alone for two weeks.2. Plow a second time horizontally to crush and remove the remaining weeds. Let it

alone for two weeks more.3. Plow a third time and level the soil.

Planting

If the field is intended for long term planting, double the distance between plants. The distance depends on the terrain of the field.

On flat terrain, the best arrangement is row by row like streets. If the field is square, the distance between trees is 5 square meters; if rectangular, 5½m x 4m or 6½m x 3½m is advised.

On mountainous areas, distance should be larger. The street is 8 x 3m or 9m x 2.5m. These distances facilitate intercropping of short term plant, and later in harvesting latex.

1. Planting should be done at the beginning of the rainy season. Prepare first the field where the seedlings will be planted. Dig about 30 cm wide and 60 deep, put fertilizers and loose soil.

2. Remove the plastic bag of the seedlings and place it in the hole, cover with fertile soil around it.

3. If the field consists of no other than rubber trees, plant other crops to control the weeds, but which will not compete with the rubber plants for nutrients.

4. The rubber plantation needs much capital (investment) and a long time (6 years) to get returns. So, meanwhile, plant in between such plants that will provide soon income like mongo, soybean, stringbeans and peanuts, which even adds fertility to the soil.

Other crops that may be planted are rice, corn, sorghum, coffee, cacao, banana, or abaca.

In the first year, 85% of the field can be used for other crops. As time goes, reduce these other plants gradually 5% each year.

Source: Greenfield August 1990

RATTAN

Rattan is one of our most important exports. Its high quality depends on the variety, and the manner of harvesting, storing and transporting to the market.

Enemies of Rattan

Like wood, rattan is destroyed by pest and disease that lowers its quality. Once disease has set in, stain marks are left on the rattan.

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Control of Mold (disease)

1. In a place near a body of water where the rattan has been stacked after cutting, make a hole about 5 meters long, 60 cm wide and 40 cm deep.

2. Line this with plastic sheet where the rattan to be treated will be immersed or soaked.3. Provide a place where the rattan will be made to lean on after soaking.4. Scrape the nodes and dry these in about 15 minutes until the sap below is exhausted.5. Prepare: 3.18 kilos sodium pentachlorphenate, dissolve in 20 pails water (378 liters).

Pour this solution into the hole with plastic sheet. This is about 12½ cm deep. If more rattan will be soaked/immersed, double the amount of chemicals used.

6. Immerse the rattan poles horizontally (lying down) for 1-3 minutes, 3 by 3, or by 5s or according to the thickness of the rattan. Use rubber gloves so as not to affect the hands/skin (of the worker).

7. Stack up vertically the rattan poles, elevated from the ground. Cover these with plastic sheet so as not to wash away the chemicals in case of rain.

This method protects the rattan from getting stains because of mold, for only four weeks. If the rattan will stay longer, immerse them again in the chemical pit.

Dry the rattan in air and store in a dry place. Depending on the weather, it takes rattan one to two months to dry in air. To dry very well, it is good to put it in a kiln dryer. If this is not available, remove all nodes and coating and immerse again in the third week and allow to drain, horizontally.

Control of Bukbok (Powder Pest Beetle)

Causes of bukbok in rattan are: its scratch content on which the bukbok lives, moisture, size of the holes and heat. The warmer the climate, the more favorable for the bukbok. The more or bigger the holes are in the rattan, the more eggs are laid in it.

Method of Controlling Powder per beetle (Bukbok)

Dissolve 1% or 2% in water, any of the following, and immerse the rattan in it for 2-3 minutes.

1. Dieldrin 18 EC 1% {1 part chemical {16 parts water

2% {2 parts chemical{16 parts water

2. Lindane 20% EC 1% {1 part chemical{19 parts water

2% {1 part chemical{18 parts water

3. Chlordane 75% EC 1% {1 part chemical{74 parts water

2% {2 parts chemical{73 parts water

There are two ways of treating rattan. One is by the use of pressure in a closed tank. This done only in large enterprises.

In the ordinary way, the following will do:

1. Brushing (or spraying) chemical preservatives on the rattan 2. Spraying 3. Immersing in a tank with preservative

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4. Soaking in a treated solution for a day to 3 weeks 5. Soaking in oil about one day to 3 weeksSource: FPRDI (DOST) Los BañosGRAPES

Grapes can be grown in the Philippines. This has been proven in Arevalo, Iloilo, La Union and Cebu (where they have been growing grapes since 1950). There are many varieties that we can grow here. Grapes like loose, deep soil with a ph lower than 5, so the application of lime helps. It is also good to put decomposed leaves around the plant to conserve the soil moisture. Grapes like terrain that is somewhat sloping so as not to lodge water and hurt the roots.

Grapes need plenty of sunshine (not shade) and good circulation of air to avoid the onset of disease.

Within ten (10) to 12 months after planting, grapes are ready for harvest. Harvest is done three times a year -- September, December, and Summer.

In the first year, a hectare of land planted to grapes can yield about 1,700 kilos per tree. In the third and fourth years 10,000 kilos per tree can be harvested. Grape is most productive from its third to eighth year.

Manner of Planting and Maintenance

1. Plow and clean the field for planting.2. Remove the plant from the nursery pot and place in the prepared holes for planting

about 3-4 meters apart, row by row.3. If the seedling comes from a (rooted) branch, don't let this branch touch the soil so

that it will not grow roots.4. At first, cover the new plant with coconut leaves or banana leaves.5. Prepare the trellis.6. Apply fertilizer -- animal manure: (pig, chicken), decomposed leaves etc.7. When the stem becomes brown and a new shoot grows and the leaves become mature,

it is good to prune the branch.

It is good to do this at the onset of Summer so that the flowers will become fruits and ripen, if sunshine is abundant.

Harvest can be had in 3-4 months after pruning.

Prune again 4-6 weeks after harvesting. Pruning is done 2-3 times a year, depending on the rain and variety of the grape plant.

Reducing of branches is done to make the fruits grow well and large -- January, April and June.

8. Remove the growing shoots at the base of the plant or under soil. Do this in the first 4-5 years of the plant.

9. Counteract the insect pests or worms by spraying Brodan or Planters Malathion.10. Drive away the birds that feed on the grapes by using a scarecrow.11. Control molds with fungicide about 2 times a week if the weather is humid.

For longer shelf life of the harvested grapes:

1. Harvest only when the sun (day) is cool.2. Take care not to hurt the fruits when handling.3. Don't expose them to the heat of the sun.4. If possible, smoke first the fruits before transporting.

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Source: Greenfields April 1989

BOOK III - IMPROVEMENT/MAINTENANCE OF PLANTS (back to main page)

NATURAL FERTILIZERS

Natural or organic fertilizers come from decomposed plants or farm wastes.

Chemical fertilizers come from different chemicals produced in laboratories or factories.

The following show the differences between them:

Natural Fertilizers

1. Enriches the soil and makes it loose. Because of this, the soil is enabled to store water and release it to the plants when needed.

2. Beneficial insects and microbes can thrive in soil fertilized naturally.3. Plants fed with natural fertilizers grow healthy and strong, and resistant to diseases,

thus, Plants maintained with natural fertilizers bear better fruits.

Chemical Fertilizers

1. Land that is continually fed with chemical fertilizers become acidic and sticky. The more chemicals, the weaker the soil becomes.

2. Very few beneficial microorganisms thrive in soil fed with chemical fertilizer, so the plant has to be fed more and more with this to make the plant bear fruits.

3. Plants fed with chemical fertilizers become watery, thus get prone to pests and diseases.

Source: Farmnews March 15, 1983

Other Means of Fertilizing the Soil

1. Planting Legumes

Plant mongo, soybeans, ipil-ipil, or similar legumes in areas where other plants are growing.

After harvesting the fruits of these legumes, their roots leave nutrients in the soil that will benefit the next crop to be planted in their place, such as rice, corn, sugar cane, pineapple or the like.

The plants to be grown in this place must be rotated as some plants use more of certain soil nutrients than do others. In this way, a rotation of different crops will be using the nutrients to the best advantage.

2. Applying compost

Use decomposed farm wastes. A hectare of rice field can give four (4) tons of straw --more than necessary to make compost for a two (2) hectare plantation.

Materials for making compost may be:

farm wastes: leaves, straw, hull, grasses and weeds left over foods or fruit/vegetable peelings, scraps wood ashes, lime animal manure

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Remove from your composting:

plastic materials, glass, metals diseased plants or parts of plants that are diseased

How to Make Compost

1. Make the soil firm, and dig a trench around for excess water to flow into.2. Stack up about six (6) inches high: grass; do not compress.3. Put over the grass about 1-2 inches thick of animal manure. Urea or ammonium

sulfate, about 1-2 kilos may also be used if available.4. Put one-inch thick of rich soil mixed with wood ashes, lime over the pile.5. Repeat the process over the pile until about 1½ meters high.6. Water the pile to make it moist.7. Thrust a pipe(s) or bamboo pole(s) with holes to allow air to penetrate the bottom of

the pile.8. After three weeks, turn the compost over with the aid of a garden fork. This is easily

done by transferring into another pile so that the bottom layer will now be on top, etc.9. Turn the compost again bottom up after 5 weeks. Wait for 4 weeks more to allow

complete composting.10. In hot weather, the compost must be watered. In rainy days, cover the compost with

banana leaves.11. The pile of compost will be hot. This means that the bacteria in it are working.12. Composting can also be hastened with a chemical for this purpose.

Source: Philippine Farmer's Journal Supplement August 1980

MAKING COMPOST IN 14 DAYS

Nutrients in the soil get depleted gradually, so it is necessary to replenish these with fertilizers. Natural fertilizers can be made without expenses, and their use give no harm to the environment.

As farm wastes decompose, the carbon and oxygen that mix together cause the wastes to heat up. Thus, six (6) part of straw and grasses (which are rich in carbon) are mixed with one (1) part nitrogen-rich materials like ipil-ipil, hagonoy, chicken manure and the like.

Materials:

1. farm wastes: leaves, straw, hull, grasses/weeds (fresh and dried) 2. fresh animal manure: carabao's cow's, horse's, chicken, etc. 3. kerosene can or basket 4. eight (8) pieces posts from ipil-ipil, about 2"-3" diameter, 5' high 5. bamboo 6. shovel, garden fork, bolo

Procedure

1. Select a shady place in your yard that is somewhat elevated and does not lodge water.

2. Enclose about 5 ft square around the posts: allow space for air at the bottom.3. Preparation:

a. First day

Cut up into about 3" 4" the farm wastes; wet these or soak for 5 minutes in water. If they are plenty, spray water on the mound;

mix with equal amount of fresh animal manure;

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mix well together stack up the enclosed place with this until 4 ft. high

b. Second day

See if the pile is getting heated up. If not, sprinkle with dissolved fresh manure. It is important to have this heat within 24-48 hours. This heat will kill the microbes (especially if manure is used) and the seeds of weeds and grasses.

c. Third day

Reverse the pile, see if it is heating up. Keep it moist but not wet. If it's still not hot, sprinkle with dissolved manure.

d. Seventh day

reverse the pile again, see if it's heating up, keep moist.

e. Tenth day

the pile must be cooling now, which means the compost is done.

f. 14th day

the resulting compost is ground (pulverized), dark and course soil. If desired, let it stay longer up to 18 days.

This can now be used as fertilizer. Pure plants take longer to decompose because of their natural bark or coating that takes long to deteriorate.

Source: AT Focus 1984 at Research August 1985

Application of LimeLime is mixed with the soil to enrich it with calcium and to lessen the soil's acidity. The soil's degree of acidity is determined through a soil chemical analysis. Lime for farming is ground limestone, spread over the field before plowing.

The application of lime must be one month before the application of other fertilizers. This is because it is not good to mix lime with ammonia -- it will cause nitrogen to disappear into the air.

If lime is mixed with phosphate, this will not dissolve and so will not be of any advantage to the plant. To benefit most from these, put all the lime necessary at one application. If the advised quantity is more than three (3) tons and this happens to be unaffordable, the application may be halved until the whole amount is applied up to five (5) years.

It is better to apply the lime at the beginning of the land preparation. Broadcast the lime over the field before plowing. Then one month after, before planting, apply the fertilizer.

Source: Principles in the Application of Fertilizers Bureau of Soils January 1990

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PLANT AZOLLA FOR FERTILIZER

Dried azolla provides a rich source of nitrogen. Plant this in between rows of rice plants.

1. The rice seedlings must be about 13.2 cm and 6.6 cm apart each.2. Broadcast azolla between rows, about 53-66 cm apart.3. If the rice seedlings are short, reduce this distance -- make it 50 cm apart to provide

shade for the growing azola.4. Azola will grow and flourish in this way without disturbing the growth of the rice

seedlings.5. Azola should first be dried before using as fertilizer.

In the People's Republic of China, the nitrogen fertilizer they use is dried azola. They can harvest 198 cavans of palay for every hectare, only with the use of this fertilizer.

Source: The Philippine Farmer's Journal March 1980

PLANT AZOLLA (WIDE SCALE PRODUCTION)

Azolla can be grown abundantly in lakes or ponds, rice fields with irrigations, concrete tanks, or containers or trays with soil about 3-6 cm thick, and immersed in water about 5-7 cm high.

Azolla likes shade, and this grows fast from September-October when the days are short.

1. Choose a place that is not so exposed to sunlight.2. Prepare the soil where azolla is to be planted, like preparing for rice seedlings.3. Maintain the water height at 5-7 cm deep (or up to the 2nd line of the middle finger).4. Broadcast fresh azolla at 200 gm/sq.m (equivalent to two (2) one-fourth (1/4) can of

condensed milkcan).5. Put fertilizer -- superphosphate fertilizer powder (0-18) about 8.3 gms/sq.m (or 1

heaping spoon) over the azolla. Shake the azolla a little so as to wet it and dissolve the fertilizer, and avoid the burning of its leaves.

Repeat this fertilizer application every four (4) days until 12 days, or 4 times application from planting.

6. If weeds grow, put a pinch of carbofuran for every sq. meterof azolla.7. If the culture area is larger than one sq. meter, spread this to hasten growth.8. After 8-12 days, a sq. m of azolla will grow more than a kilo of fresh azolla. This in

turn can be planted in other culture areas.

Uses of Azolla

1. As fertilizer for rice plants: mix with the soil 12-15 days before transplanting rice seedlings.

2. As fertilizer for palay 2-5 days after transplanting of seedlings, and mix with the soil 16-20 days after grains begin to grow.

3. As feed for poultry: chicken, ducks, etc; pigs, goats, cow, fish4. As compost, fertilizer mixed with soil.5. edible as salad, tortilla and other recipes.

Seedlings may be obtained from the BSWM, Sunesco Bldg. Taft Ave., Manila or at the Alabang Soil Conservation and Demonstration.

Source: Bureau of Soil and Water Management Jan. 1990

BEES IN THE COCONUT FARM

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According to researchers from the Champton Horticultural Research Center in Thailand, culturing honey bees in the coconut farm helps much in the coconut trees' productivity the whole year, and almost double their fruitbearing. Thus, less expenses are incurred for fertilizers besides providing extra income from honey from the beehives.

The species of the bees is Apis cerana or Indian honey bee. These do not migrate but are common in Southeast Asia. They are easy to catch because they feed on coconut, and most coconut farms in the world are in the Southeast.

Other trees that are a must in the farm are those that appeal to their taste and scent like rambutan or durian, when the coconuts are not in bloom.

How to trap the Apis cerena Bees

1. These bees can be entrapped in hordes, and can also be dispelled.2. The standard trap is 27 cm wide, 21 cm high and 45 cm long with floor, and with

adjustable entrance that can be closed and opened.3. The bees are attracted at night. Place a honey comb that has holes. Every morning,

set if there are bees.4. See the bee house every 10 days if there are enemies: lizzards or winged ants (gamo-

gamo).5. In harvesting honey, look for open hives and get honey with the aid of a hive tool.6. Harvest, according to the bees diet, is every 23 days of their flower sucking.7. Cultured bees should be given additional food besides what they get from the flowers,

so as to increase their honey production. Every beehive can provide 4 kilos of honey every year from the specie Apis cerena. This can be increased to 14 kilos if the manner of getting honey is improved.

On the other hand, the presence of bees in the coconut farm assures the bearing of nuts continuously throughout the whole year, and more abundantly than if ordinary fertilizers were applied.

To get the most out of coconut production, there should be about 30-40 beehives for every five km. square, according to researcher Watanoyothin of Chupton Horticultural Research Center.

Source: Greenfields August 1990

RULES ON THE APPLICATION OF CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS

For best results, the application of fertilizers must be done in the right way. To use fertilizers scantily in efforts at thrift only results in harvest poorer than if no fertilizer had been used.Manner of applying fertilizers and limeA. Lowland Rice

1. Broadcast the recommended quantity of phosphate with one-half of the nitrogen fertilizer. Do this before leveling the rice field before transplanting the seedlings.

2. Broadcast the remaining half of the nitrogen fertilizer three (3) weeks before the flowering of the palay. Do this when the leaves of the palay are dry.

3. Dry the field first before broadcasting the fertilizer. Three days after the broadcasting, irrigate the field little by little.

B. Upland Rice

1. Broadcast all of the recommended phosphate fertilizer before planting the palay.2. Divide the potash into two parts and the nitrogen into 3 parts.

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3. Mix one part of potash to one part nitrogen and broadcast this at the last harrowing of the field.

4. Mix the half of potash to one part nitrogen and broadcast four (4) weeks after planting.

5. Broadcast the remaining nitrogen three (3) weeks before flowering.

C. Corn

1. Mix half of the nitrogen to all of the phosphate and potash fertilizers. Calculate the amount to be applied for every hill, with the distances of the plants as guide, or the over all number of hills for every hectare.

2. Apply the mixed complete fertilizer mentioned on top of the furrows where the grains of corn will be planted.

3. Cover the soil with fertilizer about two (2) inches deep so that the fertilizer and the planted grain will not soon meet.

4. Plant the grain on top of this and cover again with soil.5. Mix up the remaining nitrogen fertilizer and equal amount of dry powdered soil.6. When the plants are knee-high, put the fertilizer on the hills 3-4 inches away from the

plants.7. For dry season, planting, apply all the recommended quantity of fertilizer at planting

time, or three (3) weeks after, in the manner mentioned.

D. Tobacco

1. Mix all recommended nitrogen fertilizer and potash, divide into two parts.2. Mix one part with all necessary phosphate fertilizer.3. Apply the mixed complete fertilizer on every hill, 3-4 weeks around the base of each

plant, two weeks after transplanting the seedling. Cover the fertilizer thinly with soil.4. Apply the remaining mixed fertilizer 30 days after the first application.

E. Peanuts

1. Mix up all recommended kinds and quantity of fertilizers.2. Apply these on hills and where the seeds will be planted.3. Cover the fertilizer with 2 inches of soil and plant on this the grain of peanut. Cover

again with soil.

F. Potatoes

1. Mix up all recommended amount of superphosphate and Maviate of Potash in one half of recommend amount of ammonium sulfate.

2. Put the fertilizer on the hill -- three (3) inches at teh side and three (3) inches below the seedling. Cover the seedling with soil and compact the soil.

3. Apply the half of the ammonium sulfate row by row 3-4 inches apart 4-5 weeks after planting. Cover the fertilizer with soil.

Source: Principles in the Application of Fertilizers Bureau of Soils January 1990

MANGO PRODUCTIVITY

The regular spraying of fertilizers on the mango tree has a big effect on its fruit bearing, especially the application of fertilizers with potassium nitrogen and calcium. It is on these three elements that the tree depends much so as to flower and bear good fruits. The more fertilizers, the more fruits there will be.

This was found out in four and a half (4½) years of research at PCARRD on the mango's flowering and fruit bearing with the aid of chemical fertilizers.

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Source: Completed R&D Projects, PCARRD-DOST-STII (ISN-255)

SALT PETER FOR MANGO FLOWERING

Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) induces flowering of the mango tree even out of season. This is effective if the buds are plentiful and the leaves are brittle and dark green.

Formula for spraying:

10 grams potassium nitrate for every liter of wateror 200 grams KNO3, for every can (kerosene can) water

The tree will bear fruit from the 7-14 days after spraying. If no flowers come, spray again.

If it rains after spraying, or the tree does not flower after 15 days, repeat the spraying.

If the flowers are abundant but damaged by the leaf hoppers, spray again after 47-54 days.

Potassium nitrate that is not pure is dangerous to the plant. Avoid using this if there is no assurance that the KNO3 is pure.

It is also necessary to get permission from the authorities to use this fertilizer. If permission is not given, use any of the commercial flower inducers like:

Agriblum, Rebloom, Mangovit, Mangotone, Miracle blum, Flower Set.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews April 15, 1980

FLOWERING OF PINEAPPLE AND OTHER CROPS

According to studies at the UP Los Baños, flowering can be induced in some crops even out of season, with the help of Calcium Carbide. This can be done on papaya, bananas, coffee and tomatoes.

Procedure

On pineapple 11 months old

1. Pound calcium carbide2. Put a grain of pound calcium carbide in the middle of the pineapple crown3. Pour water into it while4. Greatly pushing the carbide to make it reach the youngest leaf or bud.

The plant will bear flowers within a month. Commercial flower inducers are available at the market. Inquire from your agriculturist.Source: PCARRD Monitor April 1983SIGNS OF NUTRIENT DEFICIENCIES IN SOIL

NITROGEN

1. stunted growth seen in the size and shape of the leaves.2. yellowing of the leaves toward the bottom of the plant, while those toward the top are

green.3. leaves are pale to yellow until they get dried.4. formerly thick leaves become thinner.

Excess: 1. overgrown leaves2. soft body, watery and attracts insects and diseases

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PHOSPHORUS

1. the plant does not grow.2. leaves are pale, then turn dark green.3. red stains appear on the leaves, or dark red or purple at the base or middle of the

leaves.4. leaves turn light ash green with burnt edges if the deficiency is severe.

POTASSIUM

1. leaves turn ash gray, especially toward the end.2. Stems are weak, easily break such as in corn and sorghum.3. harvest is poor.4. edges and base of leaves appear burnt and shriveled, and turn yellow to brown among

mature leaves.

IRON

1. The edges of the leaves are yellowish; this spreads until only the veins of the leaves are green.

Toxicity: 1. Leaves turn yellowish to brown until they dry up, or2. until they become dark with course veins

ZINC

1. veins of mature leaves become silvery2. half of the big veins of the leaves die3. leaves get smaller and change shape4. the joints are shorter and stunted.

CHLORINE

1. growth of the plant is stunted2. fruit bearing is poor3. the plant get yellowish or wilted and dried4. color becomes cooper like

Source: Philippine Farmer's Journal Supplement August 1980

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BIOLOGICAL PESTICIDES

The use of commercial pesticides kill, not only the target insect pests, but also beneficial insects like spiders, grasshoppers and others. Besides this, it leaves residues in the plant where it is sprayed, and is harmful to the person spraying. If inhaled, pesticides can cause cancer in the long run.

Pesticides chemically prepared are expensive; we have plants that naturally repel harmful insects at no cost, such as:

1. wild pepper -- dried and pulverized-- spray on infected plants. When this becomes moist from dew, insect pests are repelled.

2. combination of 3 pieces garlic, 2 pieces pepper, and 2 pieces onions grind and pulverize these, soak overnight in water. By next morning, fill up the water to make 3 gallons. Strain and spray on affected plants.

3. ash and lime♦ spread around the plants to keep off snails or land leeches♦ put a basin of water beside the plant to attract and trap the snails (from PCARRD

Farmnews July 1987)

4. Essence (oil) from oranges, calamansi, pomelo and other citrus♦ dispels and kills ants, flies, white crickets, etc. (PCARRD Farmers March 1984)

5. Damong Maria (dried) -- when burned drives away insect pests (PCARRD Farmers Feb 1984)

6. Eucalyptus leaves

7. Manzanilla flowers

Source: Greenfields March 1983

PYRETHRUM FLOWER

Is a kind of white chrysanthemum that grows in high altitudes like the Mountain Province. It contains pyrethrin, a chemical, that drives insects away. The higher the altitude, the stronger is its pyrethrin content.

The pyrethrin or pesticide content of this flower is not harmful to humans, and is beneficial to plants like potatoes. It also repels insect pests that feed on cultured plants.

Pyrethrin comes from chrysanthemum leaves.

Source: Greenfields March 1983

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MARIGOLD

Marigold or amarillo contains a chemical that is toxic to some pests in the soil, like nematodes. Thus, it is good to plant marigold together with vegetables or in between farm crops. Nematodes are very tiny parasites or worms in the soil, river, sea, rotting wood or plants. They also thrive in other parts of the plant like the roots, and in animals and insects.

Most nematodes are not harmful, but even helpful in fertilizing the soil. However, their danger lies in that they feed on roots, stems, or leaves of plants -- they suck the nutrients.

Source: Farmnews Mar-April 1986

KALINGAG - insect pest repellant

The most damaging insect pest that preys on fruits is the fruitly. Once it gets into the flesh of any fruit, it can reproduce and spread wherever that fruit may be brought. Thus, in efforts of importing countries to avoid the entrance of this pest into their territories, strict regulations are imposed on incoming fruits for instance our mango.

It was found out by a scientist from the Bureau of Plant Industry in Quezon that the bark of the Kalingag attracts, insects, especially the fruitly, thus facilitates their entrapment.

Procedure:

1. Pulverize the bark of the kalingag tree.2. Mix the powder in 2% water solution that is, 2 grams per liter of water.3. Put this in containers with traps.

The fruitflies will approach it, especially early in the morning and late afternoon.

Source: Farming Today May 1982

PLANT PESTICIDES FOR RICE PESTS

Certain plants, not harmful to the environment nor to the user, repel the black insect pests that attack rice plants. Some of these are the tubli (or labnek), lagtang (or macasia) and the makabuhay (derris).

Procedure:

A. Tubli - roots

1. Chop the newly dug roots 7-5-15 kilo of desired sizes 2. Pound in a pestle until the juice is extracted. The juice is white 3. Soak for at least 5 minutes in 150-300 liters water. 4. Strain, wring and spray the solution over the plants with insect pests.

B. Lagtang - seeds 1. Pound in a pestle until fine. 2. Soak for 4 hours, then spray on the affected plants

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C. Makabuhay - leaves or stalk 1. chop and pound 2. soak in water

3. squeeze out the juice, strain fine before spraying

Proportion is 50-300 liters water in 7-5-15 kilos makabuhay for every hectare.

Source: PCARRD Monitor January 1990

Makabuhay (Tubli) - an excellent source of insecticide

In a research conducted by the Philippine Council for Agriculture, Forestry and Natural Resources Research & Development (PCARRD) at the U.P. Los Baños, it was found out that the juice of 50 grams of makabuhay for 1.25 liters water can control rice green leafhoppers, insects that bring the virus of the disease in palay.

There are various ways of using makabuhay. One is by soaking the roots of the palay seedlings in the makabuhay solution 24 hours before planting. Another is by broadcasting the juice of the makabuhay on the palay seedlings.

The effect of these is almost the same as that of carbofuran, a chemical insecticide against leafhoppers.

Two kilograms of ground makabuhay can also be broadcast in a square meter of field 10 days after plowing. This is the same as broadcasting carbofuran which is effective 5-7 days after application.

Besides its use as insecticide, makabuhay is also used in the relief of stomachache, indigestion, diarrhea, ulcer, parasites and malaria.

Source: Malaya Sept. 12, 1988

Tubli (Derris)

A low bush that provides insecticides against plant lice, yellow aphids, flies, caterpillars, ticks, fleas, chicken fleas and others.

This is known to be used as fish poison, as traditionally done here and in Indonesia, but this is not legal because it kills the big fishes and their offspring. Tubli is poison to cold blooded creatures like insects and marine organisms.

Procedure:

A. Ticks, fleas of cats and dogs

1. Dried tubli roots: chop and pound until pulverized.2. strain fine3. mix: 6 parts tubli powder and 4 parts talcum powder.4. Powder on the affected cat or dog.

B. Aphids, lice and others

1. Fresh tubli roots: pound, put in water so as to get the juice2. Spray the solution on affected plants.

Keep this away from your aquarium.Source: PCARRD Farmnews Nov. 30, 1985RESEARCHERS ON BIOLOGICAL PEST CONTROL IN THE COUNTRY

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A group of researchers made investigations on different ways of controlling plant insect pests by our farmers in 13 provinces of the various regions, namely, Ilocos Norte, Benguet, Cordillera, Nueva Ecija, Batangas, Cavite, Laguna, Quezon, Palawan, East Samar, Claveria (Misamis Oriental) Argao (Cebu) and Cotabato. The following are their practices:

1. Madre De Cacao

Ilocos Norte

broadcast the fresh leaves where there are insect pests about 5 kilos per 100 square meters area

after transplanting rice, this is sometimes done and is effective for about one week.

Cotabato

The juice is extracted from the leaves, mixed with chemical pesticides and sprayed on affected plants.

finger sized stems and branches are thrusted into rice fields and at mouths of water sources.

2. Derris (Tubli)

Ilocos Norte

a spoonful of juice from the leaves is mixed with one liter of water (4ml/l) and sprayed.

This is effective up to one week.

Cotabato

the roots are bunched together as big as a man's arm, about a foot long, and buried first for a week. Then this is pound, its juice extracted and sprayed on affected plants.

the juice is also mixed with 10 tobacco leaves and one-half liter kerosene, then mixed in one drum of water.

East Samar

one part of the root's extract is mixed with 3 parts water and sprayed on all kinds of plant pests.

3. Red Pepper

Ilocos Norte -- 2 spoonfuls of juice mixed in one gallon water and sprayed on caterpillars (worms) (7.9 mg/l)

Cotabato -- 1 spoonful of crushed pepper in 1 gallon water, soap, and concocted tobacco leaves

Benguet and Nueva Ecija -- pepper juice with tobacco is sprayed on mustard and egg plant

every 3 days.♦ a chupa of pepper in one-half cup of water with insecticide is sprayed

on affected vegetables.East Samar -- pepper juice drives away rice insect pests

Batangas & Cavite -- pepper and crude oil for rats: wild pepper is placed in stored grains.

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4. Makabuhay

Benguet and Nueva Ecija -- makabuhay juice is placed where rats go or pass.Quezon & Dagupan -- makabuhay juice with yellow ginger and onion is sprayed.

5. Other Ways

Claveria -- string beans are planted with rice. This repels palay pests. peanut is planted with palay. The peanut spider eat the larvae of the insect

pests. tanglad is planted with rice.

Source: Greenfields January 1990

FOR CABBAGE DISEASES

One kind of bacteria attacks cabbages, which causes its rotting. Among different chemicals studied for this disease, UP Los Baños researchers found alum most effective, followed by lime.

Procedure:

1. Alum -- dissolve about 150 grams of alum in a liter of water (15%) and spray thisat the base of the cabbage plant.

2. Lime -- pulverize lime and apply this at the base of the plant.3. Wrap the base well with lime. Do this before the disease spreads.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews Nov. 30, 1985

BEES: PEST KILLER

In 10 countries of Africa, cassava plantations were infected by the mealy bug. At that time, cassava harvests were much reduced because of this pest.

The International Institute of Tropical Farming, in 1985, released 50,000 bees to counteract these bugs. Before the event, mealy bugs numbered as much as 1,500 for every growth or branch of cassava.

The pest population was much reduced because of the bees. After the event, only about 10-20 mealy bugs could be found on every cassava plant.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews Dec. 1990

SPIDERS: ENEMIES OF INSECT PESTS

At one time, the prices of oranges, calamansi and other citrus became tremendously high, as if they were imported fruits. The reason: insect pests destroyed the crops.

Researches made at PCARRD* and UP Los Baños found out that spiders preyed on these insect pests. They investigated on about six kinds of spiders that thrived in the citrus plantations of Laguna and Batangas, and saw that these spiders preyed on the citrus pests, entrapping them in their webs.

Hence, the researchers endeavored to enhance the population of said spiders and spread them all over the citrus plantations. In this way, the use of chemical pesticides was much reduced, not only reducing cost of production but more importantly, eliminating the hazard of chemical pesticides to the farmers and the environment.

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Source: PCARRD Farmnews August 1987

PESTICIDE PLANTS FOR TERMITES

It has been researched on and tried at the UP Los Baños College of Forestry that we have plants that can control termites. The most effective of these are the Balanoi and dilaw leaves. They contain methanol, which, when extracted and dissolved in water, can control termites.

Next to the above are the leaves of the adelpha and kakawate, and weakest among those tried was the juice of the makabuhay.

They were tried on a sibukaw log that was exposed to termites for two weeks. When the extracts of the mentioned plants were sprayed on the log, no termites touched it.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews July 1987

CARE IN THE COLORS OF CHEMICAL PESTICIDES

Chemical pesticides should not be placed together or near foods or medicines nor in places accessible to children.

To ensure safety, these pesticides are labelled with each, its own color, and with the distinct words POISON with a skull and crossed bones, such as: 1. red with red band -- insecticide or spray for pests.2. blue with white band -- for plants with diseases caused by the anthracnose mold,

eruption on the leaves and fruits.3. green with white band -- for weeds (herbicides).4. orange with white band -- insecticide, rat killer.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews May 31, 1980

BOOK IV (back to main page)

SOURCES OF LIVELIHOOD FROM THE FARM

Creative Innovation from Tree Roots Dye from Ipil(Khaki)Talahib Roots or Corn Fertilizer Almaciga ResinMany Uses of Barks Lemon Juice: Potential Abaca Fiber BleachLumber from Coconut TreeFibers from Water Lily StemDyes from Philippine Plants Paper from Rice StrawRed Dye from Sibukaw Paper from Stem Of Cotton PlantsDye from Talisay Paper from Banana StalkRed Dye from Annato Banana for Plantation RopeDye from Bangkoro Uses of Banana (from Belgium)Dye from Jackfruit(yellow) Rice Straw Ash as Good Substitute for SoapBonato Dye(Dark Orange) Uses of LegumesDye from Narra Uses of KaturaiDye from Dilau(Yellow) Uses of Sorghum

Mosquito Repellant from Lanzones Peels

Creative Innovation from Tree Roots

Traditionally, materials used include premium hardwoods such as narra, tindalo, akle and ipil. These species used to abound in the Philippine forest.

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Because suitable wood materials are scarce, there has been a shift to the use of minor forest products for furniture manufacture. These minor forest products include rattan, bamboo and buri. Surprisingly, furniture made from these materials were accepted easily both in the local and foreign markets. However, due to overexploitation, these forest resources are likewise depleting. Thus, exploration for other prospective raw materials continues.

Several wood species are being used in the manufacture of these novelty products. Dau, balete, kakawate, and tan-ag are preferred for sala sets. Balete, acacia, pili and antipolo are used in the manufacture of bar sets.

Processing Techniques

There are several steps in the manufacture of these novelty items. These are the following: digging, transporting, cutting, debarking, scraping, drying, bleaching, sanding and preservative and varnish application.

Digging of the stumps is done in logged-over areas in Tayabas, Gumaca and Sampaloc in Quezon Province. After digging, these are immediately transported to Pansol, Calamba, Laguna for processing is easier when the raw materials are still fresh.

Upon reaching Pansol, the stumps are cut into the desired sizes; after which these are debarked, scraped and sundried for about five hours.

Sundrying follows after scraping. Then, coarse sanding, bleaching and fine sanding are done; after which preservative treatment is applied to the product.

The last step is the application of varnish or lacquer to the finished product to enhance its appearance.

A great number of the buyers of these novelty products come from Taiwan, Japan and as far as Saudi Arabia.

Source: PCARRD Monitor, Feb-Mar 1989Talahib Roots or Corn Fertilizer

A type of bacteria (very tiny organism) from talahib roots by scientists at the University of the Philippines Los Banos National Institute of Biotechnology and Applied Microbiology (UPLB BIOTECH) which can be a source of natural fertilizer for corn. This is why this grass survive even in very poor soil because of this bacteria in its roots (Azorperillum) which can produce its nutrient needs with the help of nitrogen from the air.

Researchers tested the bacteria (called Azobacteria) in corn fields of Pangasinan, Isabela and Batangas. Test results showed that with Azobacteria, use of nitrogen fertilizer could be reduced from 30 to 70 percent. In some cases, where pure Azobacteria was used, good harvest was also attained.

Procedure of Using Azobacteria:

Four (4) small packs of Azobacteria and a little chemical fertilizer is enough for a one hectare corn field.

1. Mix Azobacteria with a small amount of chemical fertilizer.2. Wet the corn seeds and mix well with Azobacteria and chemical fertilizer before

planting.

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Once planted, it can promote the growth of roots of corn with the help of nitrogen from the air.

Source: Farming Update Jan-Mar 1989

The Many Uses of Barks

The term bark loosely refers to the outer covering of the stem and branches. Technically, it includes all the tissues from outside the cambium to the outermost layers of a woody stem. The bark serves as a protective tissue. It acts as a conduit transporting food to the other parts of the tree. About 8% of the total volume of a tree is bark.

Bark consists of an outermost corky layer called epidermis, a layer of manufactured food-conducting tissues called phloem, a zone between these two layers known as cortex. In several species, a layer of fibrous strips called "bast fiber" forms an innerbark. Oils, resins, tannins, waxes and phenolic substances may be present in the bark.

Cork, fiber, tannins, gums, resins, latex materials can all be derived from barks. The most common yet the oldest and lowest grade us of unprocessed bark is for fuel.

Following are some uses of barks:

1. Bark rich in tannin - a substance used in:

a) tanning leather, preparation of binders and wood adhesives, drying fishnets, ropes, soils and clothing.

b) insecticidec) rust preventiond) ink manufacturee) medicines

The barks of kamatchili, some mangrove species like 'bakawan-babae', busaing, langaral, pototan and ceriops tagal are the main sources of tanning materials.2) Bast fiber - another portion of the bark found just under the outer bark - strong, tough and durable and can be made into cloth, turinas, bowstrings, fish lines, sacks. Paper from mulberry and salago have fine bast fibers which can be made into high grade quality paper such as bank notes and checks.

Those of kalulot and other similar species are made into lady's handbags, wallets and placemats. The fibers of anonang, malabuho, and sinaligan yield silky and lustrous interlaced filaments which are pliable and strong. These can be used in the manufacture of elegant hats, handbags, placemats and wallets.

Anabo, anonang, 'kulantingan', 'malubago' and sinaligan have tough and durable bast fibers with good folding endurance and bending sterngth. They can also be made into cordage and wild bag trap.

3) Barks can also be potential sources of saponins - a lathe-producing substance which can be used in the formulation of shampoo.

4) Barks which are crispy are good for making charcoal briquettes.

5) Barks contain phenolic constituents of the condensed types which can be utilized for bonding upon addition of formaldehyde and proper application of heat and pressure.

This self-bonding characteristic of bark makes it a potential source of adhesive for plywood, particleboard, hardboard and other similar products.

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Barks of red lauan was used to test the potentials of fabricating boards from bark using its own phenolic constituents as the bonding agent. A one-layer barkboard with smooth and seemingly well bonded surface was produced using finer bark particles.

6) Barks shredded to resemble coarse hay can be used as soil conditioner, mulch or as growing media for plants.

Seeds sown in seedbeds treated with decomposed Benguet pine bark was found to have a germination period of 16 days only while those in untreated seedbeds took 20 to 23 days to germinate. This was based on the study conducted by the Dept. of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR).

7) Bark is also a good chelating agent. The tannin in bark could form chelates with heavy metal cations and can help retain important minerals in the soil.

8) Bark can also form complexes with soil nitrogen compounds and prevent their rapid breakdown.

9) Because bark improves drainage in certain soils, it has also been found to reduce root knot, damping off, and wilt.

Source: PCARRD Monitor Sept-Oct 1990

Lumber from Coconut Tree

Studies showed that wood from matured coconut trees when cut into 50 mm thick can be used for housing and furniture materials.

To ensure that the wood does not get deformed, the lower part of the tree is cut and allowed to dry in the air.

During summer, drying takes about 11-14 weeks and 16-17 weeks on rainy days.Source: FPRDI (PPOL 425), Res. No. PCARR-FORD016 in

Terminal Report 1981-84

Nursery Plant Pots from Coconut Coir

Plants grow faster in pots made of coconut husk with coconut dust than in soil. For example, nursery plants like:

1. Asparagus springerie - grown in coconut husk with equal amounts of dust and swine marine had more cuttings than those planted in rice field with swine manure.

2. Anthurium- more flowers per plant.3. Dracaena fragrans (leafy plant) - increased roots4. Mussaendes - longer roots (with spagnum moss and coconut) during marcotting.5. Amherstia nobilis - faster marcotting even without the use of growth hormones.

Source: PCARRD, Balitang Pambukid, May 1987

Dyes from Philippine Plants

Dyeing using different plants has been a traditional practice. However, with the invention of artificial dyes and modern dyeing practices, such use of dyes from plants was soon abandoned.

There are many Philippine plants which are good source of dyes – either bark or wood.

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There are plants which are naturally rich in tannic acid or tannin which is used in dyeing leather, wood or textile. These are: kamachili, bakauan, red white lauan, tangal, ipil-ipil, coconut husk and others. The common procedure of extracting dyes is as follows:

1. Boil the ground or chopped bark in uncovered cooking pot with just enough water to cover the barks.

2. Boil to 60°C-80°C with with continuous stirring.3. After an hour, strain in wire screen and replace water in the cooking pot. Repeat 1-3

until water becomes pale in color.4. The water used in second or third boiling could be used for the next fresh barks.5. Mix all the water used for boiling and boil them altogether until you get a dark colored

dye.

Source: Selected R&D Projects (Completed) NSDB

Red Dye from Sibukaw

Extracting dye for a 400 grams cloth:

1. Soak ground or wood shavings in water at a ratio of 1 kilo wood shavings for every 40 liters of water and boil for five hours.

2. Strain, then boil again until it thickens and dries.3. Scrape the dried residue and pulverize about 120 grams

Mordanting:

1. Heat the cloth to be dyed with 3% mordants: 12 g potassium dichromate or oxalic acid in 12 liters water at 60°C for half an hour.

2. Let cool and wrap.Dyeing:

1. Boil the cloth in 30% dye mixture (1 part dye in 30 parts water).

120 g sibukaw powder dye mixed to 12 liters water 4 g sodium carbonate (1%), and 20 g sodium bisulfate (5%)

2. Stir constantly to get an even colored cloth.

3. Let it cool, squeeze, then wash well. (Use 20% teepol; 20 g teepol in 100 cc water)

4. Rinse well and dry.

Another method of making dyes from sibukaw is by fermenting with powdered sibukaw bark for one week to get a strong color. Source:Natural Dyes of the Philippinesby Wiliam H. Brown

Dye from TalisayBlack color for silk and gris for cotton.

Dye Extraction:

1. Get some 3.5 kilograms of talisay leaves.2. Grind or pound the leaves.3. Soak the ground leaves overnight in 50 liters water.

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4. Strain and set aside the residue.5. Boil the residue until it thickens to about 1/4 of its original weight.6. Steam the residue until it dries and become a black residue.7. Scrape the residue and pulverize it to about 280 grams.

Mordant Preparation:

1. Boil the cloth in 70% dye (280 g dye powder and 35% ferrous sulfate mixed in 12 liters water) for one hour; continuously stirring to get an even color.

2. Let it cool, squeeze and wash in 100 cc water with teepol.3. Rinse well and hang to dry.

Source: Philippine Textile Research Institute (E. Fernandez, 1995)

Red Dye from Annato (Achuete) For cotton:

1. Soak the annato seeds in boiling solution of carbonate soda.2. Soak the cloth to be dyed for 15 minutes.3. Squeeze the cloth, rinse in water with alum.

For silk:

1. Dissolve equal amounts of annato and sodium carbonate.2. Soap may be added.3. Soak for one hour (according to desired color) in 50°C heat.4. The resulting color may be made yellowish if the cloth is rinsed with small amount of

tartaric acid.

For wool:

1. Wool is dyed in annato at 80°C-100°C without any additives.

Source: National Dyes of the Philipines by William H. Brown

Dye from Bangkoro(Red, Light Violet and Chocolate)

The substance where the dye from bangkoro is taken comes from the bark of its roots - abundant in its third to fourth year of age. No more dyes could be taken when the aged beyond four years.

The thin roots are the ones useful. When it grows to about half inch, it becomes useless.

The root bark is the source of red dye, the woody part - yellow dye, so that when the root bark gets woody, the dye is reddish yellow.

Mordants:

red and rose – aluminum

chocolate brown -- chromium (acc. to strength of mordant)light violet to black -- iron

Dye from Jackfruit(Yellow)

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Grated jackfruit wood produce yellow dye, although the tree is more popular for its edible fruit.

It is being used as dye for yellow clothes of priests and for silk in India and Java.

To get: Mordant is:

Olive yellow use with chromiumLight yellow use with aluminumDark yellow use with tin

Bonato Dye (Dark Orange)

Kamala - a plant substance that is taken from the outer seed of bonato which is used as dye.

Use mordant as follows:

4 parts (kamala)1 part alum2 parts sodium carbonate (native vanilla)Rub with small amount of sesame oil

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For silk, add:

½-1 part sodium carbonate in boiling water. Soak the silk cloth and dye in boiling water for 2-5 minutes.

Dye from Narra (Red)

Red dye for wood is produced from narra tree. It does not soluble in water but dissolves in alkali solution such as aluminum hydroxide, alum, wood dust.

The best mordant are metallic mordants -- chromium and copper hydroxide; fader with soap. Narra mordant are used for dyeing wood. Its alcoholic tincture produces dark red color dye in wood.

Dye from Dilau(Yellow)

This is a root plant like ginger. It is used to dye silk and wool - yellow. Boil the roots, add alum or vinegar, if desired, according to color strength desired.

Its turmeric substance is not soluble in waater, but dissolves easily in either alcohol, alkali, fats and oils. Turmeric solution fades under the sun.

It gives bright green and brown, light violet red with tin, lime and barium hydroxide.

Turmeric produce yellow color in acid solution and dark reddish brown in alkali.

Dye from Ipil (Khaki)

Ipil wood produces bright brown (low) in low acid solution. Cotton cloth with tin mordant becomes olive greenish brown.

When wood is buried for a week in clay with ipil dust, the part which is lighter black gets very dark.

The juice of fresh ipil produce indellible brown in white paper or textile.

Dye from Castor Plant

The leaves give gris color for mats.

Source: Natural Dyes of the Philippines by William H. Brown

Almaciga Resin

Almaciga resin is one of our major forest products exported to other countries. It is widely known as Manila Copal.

Some of its industrial uses include paint glass, varnish, plastic, linoleum, printing ink, and fuel for torch.

Almaciga tree grows in almost all mountainous forests, but most particularly in Quezon, Zambales, Palawan, Cagayan, Abra, Kalinga Apayao, Nueva Vizcaya, Samar, Zamboanga and Davao. High export quality products are those that come from Palawan and Quezon.

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Procedures:

1. Almaciga tree with 35.5 cm. diameter can be tapped for resin.2. The total length of the cut is about 1/3 of the total tree circumference. Each cut is 30

cm long and 1-12 cm wide with a 30 cm space between each cut.3. More cuts could be made out of a big trees compared to small ones. A tree with 115-

155 cm diameter maya be cut 5-6 times while only one for smaller trees.4. The quality of resin taken during summer is higher than those taken during season.5. Resin has a higher quality if it is clean. Cut hardened resin into small pieces, soak in

water for a week, then air dry. Grind firmly and place in 95% ethyl alcohol to melt. First class quality resin melts in 97% ethyl alcohol.

6. Almaciga trees grown in lowland produce more resin than those grown in the highlands. The bark from the lower part of the tree is soft and thick and produce more resin.

Varnish from Almaciga

Researchers at the Forest Products Research and Development Institute in Los Baños, found that resin from almaciga is a good material for varnish. Several formulas were studied to find the best varnish from almaciga resin. The tree in soft and usually used for Christmas tree. It grows abundantly in Regions 2, 3, 4, 5, 8 and 10.

Six formulas were tried using powdered resin melted in 95% ethyl alcohol or lacquer thinner with lumbang oil.

This type of varnish is hot and cold resistant. It is not significantly affected with hot coffee or cold softdrinks poured on it.

It is hoped that this resin will become popular because of its simple and cheap preparation.

Finishing Oil for Furniture

From Rubber Tree

Rubber tree seeds produce oil. Researchers from FPRDI Los Baños found that furniture applied with finishing oil from rubber tree seeds are more resistant to alcohol stain or anything hot placed on top of furniture compared to ordinary finishing oil.

The proportion which may be applied with paint brush is as follows:

75% oil from rubber tree seed25% paint thinner

Source: PCARRD Farmnews July 1987

Lemon Juice: Potential Abaca Fiber Bleach

Abaca, popularly known as Manila Hemp, is primarily used in the manufacture of marine cordage, pulp and paper products, nonwoven fabrics and disposable items.

Many cottage industries utilize the best grade abaca fibers in the producton of quality items. Best grade fibers meet the standards for tensile trength, color, texture, luster and cleanness. Obviously, items produced from quality fibers (whitish in color) command a high price than those made from poor abaca (brownish in color).

People engaged in cottage fibercraft industries procure abaca fibers in bulk which are often improperly storedfor some time. Under this condition fiber discoloration occurs. To improve the color of abaca fibers, a bleaching treatment is applied.

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A study aimed at determining the best bleaching method for abaca fibers was conducted at the Visayas Stage College of Agriculture (VISCA). Abaca fibers from the middle sheaths of Linawaan variety were treated with chemical bleaches (sodium perborate, sodium hypochlorite, and chlorux with 10%, 20%, #)% and 40 % concentrations each) and natural bleaches (fresh mature camias leaves, camias fruit juice, and lemon juice at concentraitons of 20%, 40%, 60%, and 80% each).

Fibers subjected to chemical treatments under a 30-minute heating at 85 f, while those treated with natural bleaches were soaked for six hours. Immediately after these treatments, the samples were thoroughly rinsed in cold water and then air-dried at room temperature.

Color

Untreated fibers (control) were ecru in colr which could be attributed to the darkening of the puld and the adhering impurities. When the samples were treated with chemical and natural bleaching agents, the color chaged. Fibers treated with lemon and camias fruit juices turned to light ivory and light ecru, respectively, in all treatments. Camias leaves produced a light cream color, except in one treatment with chemical bleaches which produced lemon frost fibers.

The change in color when treated with natural bleaches could be attributed to the acid contents of the bleaching agents-oxalic in camias and citric in lemons.

Texture and luster

Texture of the fibers may either be soft, medium soft, medium coarse, and harsh or coarse. Among the natural bleaches, the treatment with lemon juice at 80% concentration produced medium soft abaca texture- the best result in this category. However, among the chemical bleaches, sodium hypochlorite solution gave soft abaca fibers - a performance better than that of lemon juice.

Tensile strength and elongation

A significant difference in tensile strength occurred amongthe various levels of concentration (10%, 20%, 30% and 40 %) using sodium hypchlorite solution. However, the stronger the concentration of sodium hypochlorite, the weaker the fibers become. This was also true with lemon juice.

No significant differences in ellongation was observed among the four treatments using both the natural and chemical bleaches.

Cost benefit analysis

Cost benefit analysis showed that natural bleaching agents are cheaper to use than chemical bleaches.

Source: PCARRD Monitor Feb-Mar 1989

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Fibers from Water Lily Stem

Most of our users are clogged with water lilies or hyacinths. These fast growing plants are hazardous to sea travels. They also cause skin allergies. However, the Technology and Livelihood Research Center (TLRC) found that water lilies could be a good substitute for leather in shoes and bag making.

There is at present leather and other raw materials shortage for shoes and bag making. Only 75% of the industry needs are supplied, therefore water lilies could supplement the needed materials.

Water lilies have long stems which could be made into soft but strong fibers which can be used in making different products, especially shoes, bags and slippers.

TLRC gave the following tips for using the water lily stems:

Stems from young plants break easily when dried so choose the stems from matured plants with dark green color must be chosen. Stems with even size on both ends, about 16 inches long and the same width must also be selected.

Separate the good stems from decaying ones. Tie the stems in about 100 pcs. per bundle. These are now ready for dyeing.

The present dyeing practices is sun drying. Spread the bundles in a wide area and make sure that all parts of the bundle are exposed to the sun. Drying, generally takes 7 days. Put insect repellant on the sixth day. The bundles are well dried on the seventh day. Remove the stems from bundles; sort according to color, length and width. Afterwards, tie these again and store.

Source: Philippine Daily Inquirer March 10, 1989, p. 16

Paper from Rice Straw

Paper can be made from any fibrous plant but the best material is rice straw. Abundant rice straw go to waste during harvesting time. With a very minimal capital, this agricultural waste could be a good source of livelihood. Making paper from rice straw can be done even by children in their homes or as a project in the community. The art of papermaking is being done since the ancient times in China and Japan where different types of paper such as glossy and silky ones are produced.

Materials to be used:

1. Wooden mold2. Cooking pot3. Weighing scale4. Box with 100 inch screen for working the rice straw.5. 50 inch screen metal strainer in a wooden frame for separating waste from the melted

rice straw.6. Plastic or metal basin or any big container where the mold with mixed rice straw and

water can be soaked until melted.7. Wood to grind the cooked straw.8. Rolling pin to remove water from the melted straw.9. Choose cloth to drain water from straw in the mold.10. Wooden press - to drain water during molding of the cooked straw.11. Wooden drier where the paper produced are laid to dry.12. In the absence of a wooden drier, the produced paper can be pinned in cheese cloth

and hang in clothline to dry.13. Chemicals and other materials:

Sodium hydroxide - to soften the rice straw during cooking

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Rosin size and alum - to prevent excessive absorption of water and blotting of thedye.Sodium hypochlorite - for bleaching of paper (if desired)

Procedure:

A. Preparation of rice straw

1. Cut rice straw into 5 cm length, remove waste and stores. Then wash in running water.

2. Put 1 kilo dried straw in the cooking pot.3. Make a solution of 210 gram sodium hydroxide (95% pure) in 19 liters of water. Pour

the solution in the pot with rice straw and boil for two hours.4. Wash the cooked straw and make these into balls by hand.5. Pound the straw balls with wood in hard wood or flat strone to grind the fibers. It can

also be ground or pound in a mortar and pestle.6. Strain the grounded fiber in a 50 mesh screen placed on top of a 100 mesh screen box

in running water (faucet or hose). Nylon mosquito net may also be used as screen.7. Let the ground fiber pass through the screen and drop in the box. These are the mash

which will be the paper material.8. Squeeze the mash with both hands to remove the water and then place in a clean

container.

B. Bleaching

1. Make a solution of 400 grams of sodium hypochrorite in one liter of water.2. Let the mesh drip and from them into balls.3. Pound the balls with wooden beater to make it finer.4. Place the fine mesh in a basin and add water according to desired thickness of mesh.

For a 10" x 14" x .045" basin the thickness of the mesh in about 20 liters.5. Add rosin size and alum. (10 grams of rosin size in 10 centiliters boiled water 10%).

Make a solution of 20 grams alum in 10 centiliters boiled water (20%) and add to the mesh.

6. Hold the mold firmly with both hands and soak in the basin with rice straw mesh. Move the mold to spread the mesh and with even thickness. Drain the water and let the mesh form into paper.

7. Cover the formed paper with cheese cloth and turn it upside down on a wooden drier. Place two or more cheese cloth under the screen and press with rolling pin to remove water.

8. Separate carefully the screen from the formed paper, place it in between the cheesecloth and hang to dry. Or let it dry on top of the wooden drier.

Source: FPRDI, DOST, 1991

Paper from Stem of Cotton Plants

The stem of the cotton plant is rich in cellulose, a good material for papermaking. This process came from the Cotton Technological Research Laboratory in Bombay, India which taught papermaking from cotton plant stems - such as writing paper, wrapping paper, and newsprint. They used soft green stems with 70% moisture.

Procedure:

1. Boil the chopped stem in 6% alkaline.2. Wash the cooked material and place in a beater to separate the fibers.The resulting product is a good quality yellow pulp.

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(In general, paper is made from cellulose materials. The procedure is almost the same except maybe for the ingredients used.)

Source: Indian Farming V. 40, Feb. 1991

Paper from Banana Stalk

Researchers from Japan's National Chemical Laboratory for Industries discovered how to make paper using sugarcane bagasse and banana stalk.

No poisonous chemical is used unlike the commonly used sodium suphide, sodium hydroxide and chloride. Such method is expensive and pollutes the environment.

In the newly discovered method, no bleaching is needed. The chemicals used can be reused. Because of very minimal capital, this could be a good small industry.

Source: Tech Monitor May-June 1980

Banana for Plantation Rope

There are various uses for rope or twine about the house or farm but one can hardly find one when needed. In Nigeria, rope is made from banana or plantation trees. The twine produced can be used for tying bundles together or tying plants to stakes. For example, Nigerians used this cord to secure your plants against stakes and to attack yarns to vertical poles for storage.

The central stem of the banana tree is surrounded by leaf sheaths or sections. Once the fruit has been harvested from the tree the stem can be made into rope.

Procedure:

1. Cut the stem into long-shaped pieces, the length of which should be the same as the length of the rope required.

2. Peel off the section off the log and let it dry in the sun. There are about 20 sections per log.

3. The strips should not be allowed to become brittle, however.

The sections can be split into narrower strips about 3-4 cm wide or wider or narrower, depending on the strength of the twine required. These strips can be tied together if longer pieces are required, or twisted together if a greater strength is needed.

Source: Appropriate Technology V. 17, No. 1, June 1990

Uses of Banana (from Belgium)

In the Philippines where banana is grown abundantly, there are places, like Manila, where because of prohibitive price, bananas get rotten and thrown into waste. In the provinces, where there is oversupply, bananas are fed to the hogs.

Banana Juice

However, in Belgium, there's a company named Pacho which processes 2500 kg of bananas into 1,600 liters juice or 1,100 liters clear and white wine.

Refined bananas are peeled, chopped, mashed in a mixer, strained, pasteurized and packed in one liter cartons or fermented for two months to become wine and bottled.

Cattle Feeds

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On the other hand, banana peels are dried, ground and with the strained juice residue become feeds for the cows at about 750 kg daily.

The requirement used in processing the feeds uses 40 kw electricity and 2,000 liters of water per day.

Why can't we do the same here in the Philippines when this is the land of bananas and not Belgium?

Source: IRAD News, July 16, 1991, Tech Monitor March-April 1989Rice Straw Ash as Good Substitute for Soap

Barrio folks in Northern Luzon, particularly residents of Kapangan, Benguet use rice straw ash as substitute for soap for working clothes and dishes.

Procedure:

1. Burn rice staw and collect the ashes.2. Soak ash in water.3. The dye produced in the collection is the one used for working clothes. Soak dirty

clothes here as you do with ordinary soap.4. Rinse as usual after washing.

Other Uses of Rice Straw Ash

Rice straw ash is also a good remedy for dandruff. Mix the ash with water and use it as shampoo.

Source: Greenfields Dec. 1980

Uses of Legumes

Legumes contain 20 to 40% protein which is three times more than cereal grains. They are also good source of raw materials for various food substitutes. Roots of legumes contain nitrogen-fixing bacteria which serves as fertilizer in the soil planted with these plants.

1. Peanut or mani - one kilogram of peanut contain protein equivalent to one kilogrm of pork and exceeds that of egg, fowl's meat, and beef.

source of oil for cooking and baking peanut shells are used as animal feeds

2. Mungbean or monggo - the cheapest source of protein (20%-25%) as well as vitamins, minerals and carbohydrates, not found in other legumes.

use in making rice bean (sotanghon) as substitute for soybean meal in swine and poultry feeds. excellent crop for green manuring.

3. Soybean - also known as utao, contains 40%-50% protein, 20%-25% cooking oil, and a significant amount of vitamins A and E as well as minerals.

processed soybeans are used as meat extender, sauce, curd as well as nutritious drink similar to milk.

the waste are used as animal feeds.

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Source: PCARRD Monitor V.18, No. 6, June 1990

Uses of Katurai

From Indonesia, katurai tree spread to other places in the Tropics. The different parts of the tree have different uses. For example, the leaves contain 26.5% crude protein, 5% nitrogen and oleanolic acid, and 60% starch.

As Food

In Sri Lanka, katurai tops are chopped, mixed with onions and cooked in coconut milk. Here in the Philippines, the flowers are made into salad, soup and the young leaves as vegetable.

In Java, the young leaves and fruits are given to lactating mothers.

As Medicine

In Java, the young leaves and fruit cures stomach ache of infants.

Flowers and leaves juice have mint flavor and have the property of making veins and muscles to shrink. It can relieve sinusitis, accompanying sluffy nose, colds and headache.

It can also relieve fever and a diuretic. Boiled katurai can relieve chicken fox and fever.

Boiled bark is a mint tonic.

Root extracts relieve phlegm and cough.

Leaves relieve constipation. A concoction of leaves and roots is good for rheumatism, swelling, skin allergy and contusions.

Flower extracts relieves poor eyesight.

Animal Feed

In Indonesia and Hawaii, katurai leaves are fed to pregnant and lactating goats as well as to its young.

In Java, katurai leaves are fed to lactating cows to increase its milk production, in addition to the traditional feeding of grass. Hence, katurai trees could be found almost everywhere - as fence, along the farm or dike, anywhere, because like in Thailand, katurai is fed to animals since it grows faster than the grass.

In Western Samoa, it is planted with gabi (Dioscorea sps.) so that when its leaves are pruned, the pruned leaves serves as cover to the Dioscorea plant.

In India, katurai tree serves as stakes for pepper and beted nut as well as shade for the growing coconut tree.

In South Vietnam, katurai is planted with fruit trees to increase soil fertilization.

In India and Africa, katurai is used as windbreaker to banana trees.

In Israel and West Indies, katurai is also windbreaker to coffee plants.

In Central Java, it is planted with other trees to hasten reforestation.

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Here in the Philippines, at UP Los Baños, it was found taht katurai leaves are good fertilizer for corn instead of urea. It is mixed with soil. Pruned trees recover leaves faster.

Industrial Uses

If the bark of katurai tree is cut, it produce a white, pulverized substance with red stain, which when exposed to air becomes dark purple in color. Researchers found that it could be a substitute for gum Arabic (from acacia tree).

Katurai seeds also contain rubberized substance in its inner covering. This substance can be used for processing food such as ice cream, softdrinks, candies and confectionaries, beer and many others.

The same substance is also used in paper making, textile, paints, mining and in well drilling.

Uses of Sorghum

The uses of sorghum as food

1. Cooked as rice, although it takes longer cooking time and more water. In Palawan, it is cooked with rice, which they call "kisa."

2. Could be made into flour, though it needs more water when preparing the dough.3. Could be made into chocolate porridge, boiled and mixed with grated coconut and

sugar, native cabe, and buchi (fried dough with sweetened mungbean).

Industrial Uses

1. Wine and alcohol making2. Binder and insulator; wall reinforcement 3. Urea mix4. Mold binder and in making charcoal5. Paste in papermaking6. Used in making dextrin sugar, syrup, antibiotic, citric acid and riboflavin.7. The stem is a source leather dye, can be made into basket, fishing gear and the like.8. Sorghum seeds produce oil.Source: PCARRD Farmnews, Nov-Dec 1992

Mosquito Repellant from Lanzones Peels

Lanzones peels contain a substance that repels mosquitoes, hence it is not only the smoke that drives them away.

Procedure:

1. Dry the peels under the sun. 2. Toast in the fire until brittle.2. Pulverize 4. Mix with starch.3. Spread thinly and dry. 6. Cut into mosquito repellant size

whilestill soft.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews, December 1988

ENERGY FROM PLANTS AND AGRICULTURAL WASTES(back to main page)

Plants Possible Sources of EnergyModified Method of Charcoal ProductionModified Drum Kiln

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Mud BeehiveCharcoal Making in Clay StoveCoconut Shell CharcoalCharcoal from Carabao and Cow DungCharcoal from Corn CobCharcoal Briquettes from Agricultural WasteCharcoal from Old Newspapers

Plants - Possible Sources of Energy

There are many plants where we can derive energy not only as fuel but also as raw materials for power generation such as oil, sap or turpentine. These could be processed into petroleum, gasoline and related products. Some of these plants are:

1. Petroleum fruit- this is commonly called abkol, oil, dingo, sagaga and salkel. The plant generally grows in Cebu, Bicol, Palawan, Nueva Ecija, Nueva Viscaya and Benguet.

The fruit can be used for medicine aside from fuel. 52 grams of concentrated oil can be taken from a kilo of this fruit and another 16 grams of oil can be expelled when the residue is ground and repressed.

According to Phil. Pigment and Resin Corporation diagnosis, the fruit contains 12.35 of leptine (one of the elements of gasoline) in its oil.

The plants can be propagated through seeds and cuttings.

2. Layeng or Repetek - the name means sound when it is burning. The tree grows up to 40 meters tall with body circumference of 20-40 cm. It is the bark which contains oil and burn easily when mature.

This is only found here in Palawan but grows naturally in Borneo, Sumatra and Malay Peninsula.

3. Pine (Mindoro and Benguet Pine) - source of ingredients for the different fuel industries such as:

oleoresin for making petroleum benzene and phenanthrene as substitute for petrochemicals artificial oil for making lubricant; this oil can withstand high machine

temperature turpentine which can be used as motor fuel like the one used in "Saab-99" of

Finland and Sweden.

4. African Oil Palm - from West Africa brought by the Dutch to Asia and is now being propagated here.

can produce oil up to 4 tons for every hectare. the fruit waste like shell and husk can be used as firewood or as biomass. according to a Malaysian expert 60 tons of fruits can produce 90 barrels of oil

daily.

5. Castor Bean or Tangan Tangan - also known as Tawa tawa, tangan-jawa, tangangan. It came from India and Africa. It is grown in the entire Philippines in areas that are not being cultivated and even in mountainous or cogonal sites.

It grows the whole year round, and matured within 90 days. The tree is rough with 10-13 meters high. The fruit has cluster of thorns that separates when matured. The seed contains oil that does not dry up, with a slight odor and has acrid taste.

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the residue can be used as medicine or animal feed. good bait for catching insects or from pests. the oil can be used as motor oil or diesel fuel since the oil doesn't dry up. This

can be used as lubricant for motors and rails of train. the oil can be used also in making clear soap. Since it has anti-bacterial property, it can be used as toothpaste, hair grower

and in making disinfectants. one type of acid that comes from castor can be used in making nylon. the castor seed can be stored up to 3 years.

6. Jojoba seed - not yet being cultivated here but grow even in a very dry (soil) or salty soil.

It is a kind of shrub and was discovered that the seed can be a source of oil. When this oil is mixed with alcohol the result is diesel.

Even in a very dry soil, a shrub can give 2.5 - 6 kilos of oil in a year. In a span of 3 to 4 years, one hectare jojoba plantation can produce 5,000 liters of premium oil (superior quality oil) annually.

It can produce more if fertilizer is applied. It is now being cultivated by Premium Oils and Lubricant Pty. Ltd. of Southwales, Australia.

7. Gopher Plant - like Jojoba, it is not yet here. It is a kind of grass that may grow in our desert.

When the tree gets wounded while pulling the leaves, disapppears which can be made into crude oil. But the processing is very expensive.

Modified Method of Charcoal Production

The highest form of charcoal comes from wood or coconut shell turned under controlled air. About 75% of energy we use comes from wood and charcoal fuel.

The customary or usual method of charcoal making was to answer the needs of barrio people and to lessen the problem of forest denudation.

There are many types of charcoal making, the easiest is the use of excavation or pit and use of drum. The principle of charcoal making is by heating the wood or coconut shell until dried leaving only the carbon. This can be done by burning slowly under controlled air. If it is not done this way the charcoal will turn into ashes.

The best method is by burning in a low fire and the smoke circulates within the wood and coconut shell that are being made into charcoal.

A. Modified Pit

Choose a place with a hard soil. Dig a hole that suits your need. No matter what size, the bottom must be narrower than the top. The cover can be synchronized iron or any metal that can cover the pit completely.Procedure:

1. Firing starts by burning the fuel under the pit about one foot above the flooring. When the fuel is already on fire, arrange the materials for charcoaling at about one and a half feet from the top of the pit.

2. Cover the pit and place bamboo pipe on each side to serve as chimney. The smoke that will be released will signify whether there is still fire or none.

3. If there is no more smoke coming from the bamboo pipe, remove it and cover the pit completely with G.I. sheet, dry soil or sand. Let it cool.

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This procedure lasts from two to three days.

Modified Drum Kiln

1. Use an ordinary drum with 91 cm tall and 57 cm in diameter (55 gal).2. Make a hole on top of the center about 10 cm wide (where the chimney can be

placed).3. Make equal holes on four sides about 1.5 cm in size and 30 cm spaced apart from each

center, but the lowest is 2 to 3 cm from the bottom. (For example the second top is 30 cm apart from here then the third is the same).

Operation:

1. Place a piece of roundwood, about 4 inches in diameter at the center of the kiln.2. Stack coconut shells around this makeshift chimney until the drum is full.3. Remove the starting chimney and drop a piece of burning rag to the bottom of the

drum until it ignited.4. Cover the drum when the fire is well underway.5. Gradually decrease the air opening.6. Feed additional shells after sometime, when the volume of the charge shell have

shrunk.7. Carbonization is considered complete when the volume of the smoke thins out and

becomes bluish.8. When this happened all the holes are closed and the kiln is left to cool.

This procedure last 5 hours to finish charcoal making. The charcoal yield with this kiln design ranges from 27-30 per cent.

Tips for Good Quality Charcoal

1. Shiny and black in color, not reddish or greyish.2. It sounds like metal when it falls on the floor. A good charcoal easily breaks but

uncooked charcoal is hard and doesn't break easily.

Source: UNLAD (NSDB Appropriate Technology Series)

Mud Beehive

There are many ways of making charcoal but mud beehive is the most widely used because of the good quality charcoal produced at very minimal cost. Clay is the only one used.

Beehive Brick Ovens for Making Charcoal

1. In a vacant lot, make a circle, one and a half meter in diameter and dig a one meter hole. This is the beehive brick oven.

2. About two feet farther from the oven, dig firing hole 3 x 4 feet and 1 meter deep as that of the oven.

3. Make a chimney starting from the firing hole up to the oven about one foot wide.4. In both sides of the oven make two opposite chimneys about 2 feet from its opening.5. On the chimney, make a clay foundation and mold the inserted wood.

The proportion is: 1 part of burned and crushed clay for every part of fresh clay6. When the clay dries, remove the wood from the chimney and cover it when not yet in

use.7. Make a clay foundation around the inner part of the oven.

Mixture of one part of fresh clay with one part of burn and masked clay.

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Get some stones and press flat on the wall of the oven. The substitute of cement is the clay mixture. Be careful not to cover the chimney and the firing holes.

Charcoal Making in Clay Stove

A. Clay Preparation

1. At the center of the oven, stand a 2 meters straight wood which will serve as support for wood to be arranged perpendicular to the oven.

Shorter cuts of wood will be arranged around the center until it reaches the wall of the round pit of the oven.

Use only woods which grow easily like ipil-ipil, bakauan, pototan, kakawate, kamachile, anabiong, tangal, agoho and alibangbang.

Add small cuttings of wood on top of the first layers of wood in order to help mold the top walls or roof of clay.

2. Place grass, worn sacks, or banana bark around the sides and top layers of wood.

3. Burn more clay, crush and mix it well proportionate to the fresh, glutinous clay.

In this mixture, make clay balls about one foot in diameter size. Arrange the clay balls on top of each other and press hard around the wood

filled with grass wood to serve as walls of its sides and top portion.

4. Beat the clay walls repeatedly with large wood so it will become durable. This has a round shape with rounded roof.

If the walls around is completely molded, place two adjoining holes about 10 cm wide at the upper side of the oven. This will hasten the charcoal production. This will last up to two weeks. The drying of the oven will last up to two weeks before it can be of use.

B. Charcoal Making in Clay Stove

1. The first ignition must be done when the two chimneys and the other holes are still open. The wood inside will become charcoal within seven days.

2. At the beginning, white smoke will come out from the two chimneys. On succeeding days black smoke will be seen and up to the seventh day when the smoke is completely clean which means the charcoal processing is finished.

3. To put off the fire of the oven, close completely with stone and clay its fire hole. After two hours, close the two chimneys and other holes or air outlets. After a day when the fire was put off, let the oven cool by pouring water with clay twice.

4. In getting the charcoal, make an opening at the side of the two oven (between its firing hole and its chimney). Do this by the use of a "paet" or any pointed object. The yield of charcoal is about 20-27 sacks.

5. In the initial use of the clay stove, cracks will be formed while the clay is not yet fully dried. Seal the cracks with fresh clay.

C. Reusing Clay Stove

1. Clean and fix well the clay stove holes, like the firing holes and the chimneys.2. On next charcoal making, arrange the wood just what you did before. Leave a 10 cm

space open opposite the chimney.3. Return the door cover of the stove by closing it with fresh clay. Make sure the holes

for air are open so with the two chimneys.

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4. Ignite the stove again.

Source: PNFP INNERTAP

Coconut Shell Charcoal

There are many ways of charcoal making, but the simplest so far is the use of drum. The method modified by the Forest Products Research and Industries Development (Los Baños) are the following:

Materials:

Ordinary drum (5.5 galon capacity) Chimney on top Opening on top sets of air ventilation, 1 foot apart with ½ inch holes equally distributed around the

drum (to obtain even burning). rounded wood 4 inches in diameter rag to be ignited from the bottom.

Procedure:

1. Place rounded wood at the center of the drum.2. Arrange coconut shells around it until it is covered.3. Remove the chimney and ignite the rag at the bottom.4. When the fire is well underway, cover the drum and place the chimney.5. Feed additional shells when the charge shells have shrunk.6. The process of charcoal making starts at the bottom going upward and at the middle

going out. At the beginning of charcoal making, the holes and air ventilations at the bottom are open.

7. When the oven is heated continuously until the desired temperature is reached, peep holes are closed and the second set of holes are opened.

8. The closing of peep holes and opening of new air ventilation continues until charcoal making is completed.

9. Carbonization is completed when thin smoke comes out and becomes bluish.10. Cover all the holes until the drum gets cool. Charcoal yield is about 30%.

Charcoal from Carabao and Cow Dung

Procedure:

1. Mix in one pail or container: 1 part rice hull, 6 parts fresh carabao or cow dung (or horse)

2. Place weight in mixture to remove excess water.3. Pour in molds with both ends open (to remove easily when it gets hard).4. Remove from molds and dry under the sun for three to four days.

Charcoal from Corn Cob

Materials: Corn cob, drum of 200 liter capacity, water sprinkler or can

Procedure:

1. Place corn cobs about 1/3 of the drum and put fire until smoke is gone.2. Place again 2/3 drum of corn cobs and burn until smoke disappear.3. When smoke stops, remove the contents of the drum.4. Water the corn cobs until the fire is put off.5. Lay the corn cobs on the ground and let the drum dry.

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6. Separate the charcoal from the ashes.7. Keep in a container.

Source: Ang Kilusan, Nov. 1-15, 1982

Charcoal Briquettes from Agricultural Waste

Charcoal briquettes is powdered or crushed charcoal mashed and molded using binder which can either be cassava, corn or camote powder. As fuel, charcoal briquettes gives more heat than ordinary charcoal or wood. It is almost smoked-free and heat is consistent. The fire lasts longer than ordinary charcoal and can be easily stored or transported because it is lighter in weight.

The briquettes which are hard can be used in industrial ovens instead of using carbon in melting the metal from iron ore or stone.

Charcoal briquettes can be made from rice hull, coconut barks, twigs or shells or husk and powder from husk and wooden saw dust, wood trimmings, twigs, branches and the like.

Aside from fuel, the briquettes can be used in different industries such as in making carbon disulfide, carbon electrodes, carbon tetrachloride, carbon carbide, sodium cyanide and activated charcoal. Activated carbon is used in filtering air or water.

Materials Needed: Smoke free charcoal, Cassava, corn or camote starch

Tools Needed: Hammer, Pail, Molds, Jar or drier

Procedure:

The briquettes can be made manually or by machine. The method is easy specially in places where coconut is abundant.

Procedure (briquettes made manually)

1. Prepare a smoke free charcoal - can be determined when it is shiny and has metal-like sounds when it falls.

2. Crush the charcoal by the use of a hammer.3. Cook the cassava powder (or camote or corn) in a moderate heat. The starch that will

be released must be syrupy but not thick. This will serve as binder.4. Mix well the powdered charcoal and the binder in a pail or container.5. Knead this as in bread-making.6. Place in corresponding molds.7. Let it dry under the sun. Oven drying is preferable.

Other Charcoal Briquettes

A. From corn cob

1. Make charcoal from corn cob and powder it.2. Mix:

6 parts powdered charcoal (corn cob)1½ cup water1 cup cassava starch

3. Mix well and mold according to desired size, dry.

B.1. Mix the following: 10 parts powdered charcoal 1 part starch as binder

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2. Mold and dry like other briquettes. It can boil water in 30 minutes which takes about 45 minutes with other fuel.

C. From Water Lily

Materials needed: 6 parts powdered charcoal (lignite)3 parts chopped dried Water Lily.

Charcoal from Old Newspaper

Do not waste old newspaper! During "brown-out" or when you run out of cooking gas, you can make use of charcoal from old newspapers.Procedure:

1. Soak old newspapers and magazines for about two hours in water.2. When the water is thoroughly soaked and soft, tear chunks of paper enough to be

pressed into two inches balls.3. Press out the water.4. Dry the wet briquettes on the concrete floor during hot and sunny days.5. When thoroughly dried store in plastic bags so that the briquettes will not absorb

moisture.6. Use paper briquettes as substitute for wood charcoal.

HOUSING MATERIALS FROM THE FARM(back to main page)

Testing of Soil for BrickmakingBrickmakingClay BrickBrick and Tiles from Rice Hull Ash and ClayHollow Blocks from Agricultural WasteHollow Blocks from Rice HullCementless BlocksHollow Blocks and Other Uses of Volcanic AshUses of Bloated Volcanic Ash

Testing of Soil for Brickmaking

1. Get a handful of soil and add enough water to make it sticky.2. Mold it into balls and dry under the sun for 2 to 4 days.3. See whether the dried soil cracked or not. If it remains firm and hard the soil is clay.4. Test another one with this procedure.

Conduct another test by molding 4" x 10" x 2" and burn with rice husk for one week. Good clay when dried by this method will sound metallic when tapped.

BrickmakingThere are three (3) types of manufacturing methods for bricks:

1. Soft-mud2. Soft-mud with repressing machine3. Mechanical method

Methods 1 and 2 are most suited for cottage industry. They are manually generated and require only a small capital.

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Method 3 used machines for raw material processing and farming. Even if most of the machine can be made it still needs a big capital investment.

Procedure

1. Raw clay is left in the open for stock piling with a duration of about two (2) months or until the clay disintegrates thru the action of sun and rain.

2. The disintegrated clay is brought to the processing area. Sandy clay, plastic clay and sand are mixed in their proper proportions. Water is added to combine clay mixture.

3. Knead either by hand or foot for about three (3) hours.4. After kneading, the clay should be aged for two (2) days to get a homogeneous

mixture. Aging distributes its workability and lessening the possibility of cracking during drying and firing.

5. Form the clay into a wooden mold.6. The formed bricks from the mold are then placed on a pallet and allowed to dry to

leather hardness for not more than two (2) days.7. The leather hard bricks are retouched to remove the finger marks and scratches due to

forming and handling. The retouching work can either be done by skillful hand manipulation or by machine for better and faster finishing.

8. Retouched bricks are kept in the drying area until they are completely and uniformly dried. The drying takes about two (2) weeks during dry season and four (4) weeks on a rainy season.

9. When dried, put the clay in improvised kiln. Arrange them loosely and pour rice hulls in between the spaces.

10. Set fire from the bottom. Baking process takes one week.

Source: NSDB Selected R&D (Completed) Projects, 1978 pp. 60-61

Clay Bricks

Materials: clay, sand, water

Tools: shovel, hoe, pickax, strainer, wire #14, wooden scraper,wooden molds 10" x5" x12½", gas oven

Procedure:

1. Dig soil, remove stones and waste with the use of strainer.2. Mix with:

25% water (1 part water in 4 parts of soil) 10% sand (10 parts of sand in 10 parts of clay).Mix well.

3. Put in molds, scrape excess.4. Remove molds and let dry bricks within 3 to 4 weeks at room temperature.5. Invert brick so it won't crack or form wrinkles.6. Preheat gas oven for 2 hours at 980°C.7. Arrange bricks alternately8. Bake for 16 hours.9. Cool before use.

Source: CRD, ITDI (DOST)

Bricks and Tiles from Rice Hull Ash and Clay

The high cost of construction materials for housing and the need for enough shelter lead to this simple procedure. Rice hull is used in cooking bricks. The produced ashes is used in the mixture of bricks. These materials can be found anywhere in the Philippines.

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Materials needed: clayrice hullrice hull ash

Tools needed:

1. Oven or kiln with 3m x 5m measurement. (Open on top and made of red clay.)2. Shovel, hoe and tool for digging.3. Wood or metal mold with inside measurement of 2" x 4" x 10" for red clay and 3" x 8"

x 12" for floor tiles.4. Wood or metal for scraping.5. Drying place (like table)6. Hole about 3mx2m with water.7. Mixing container -- wood or concrete.

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Procedure:

A. Bricks

1. Dig clay and bring to the hole with water.2. Soak for a day.3. Transfer mud clay in the mixing container and add rice hull ash: 1 part of ash to 3 parts

of clay.4. Mix well by foot. Remove roots, leaves and other wastes.5. Prepare the molds (metal or wood). Wet inside surroundings and sprinkle with ashes.6. Pour the mud clay mixture.7. Scrape excess from mold.8. Remove from the mold carefully.9. Let it dry under the shade for a day.10. Let it dry under the sun for 5-7 days.11. Arrange the pile of brick tiles before firing.

Place 30 cm thick rice hull ash under the oven. Arrange the pile of bricks at 5 cm apart from each other and 15cm from the side of the oven.

Cover with rice hull ash, including the space between piles. Cover the first pile with 5cm thick of rice hull ash. Do the same in the second and next piles.

This size of oven can accommodate 1,200 bricks.

Ignite rice hull ash starting from the bottom. This will last up to one week. Leave bricks to cool.

B. Brick Tiles

The method of making brick tiles is similar to bricks. They differ only in size and shape.

Both sides of the floor must have a 1 inch groove.

A laborer can make 200 bricks in a day.

An open oven with 3m x 5m size can cook 1,200 bricks in a month.

Source: NSDB UNLAD Series

Hollow Blocks from Agricultural Wastes

Materials: 1 part of cement3 parts of: sawdust, soil, rice hull, wood shavings, wood chips, crushed coconut trunk

1. Mix well, add enough water to desired consistency.2. Put in mold and place under the shade for a few hours.3. When dried, remove the blocks from mold to dry and incline to one side for ten (10)

days. Sprinkle with water from time to time to prevent cracks.

Hollow Blocks from Coconut Husk

Materials: powdered coconut husksandy soilcement

Tools: molds (made of heavy wood or iron)shovel

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Procedure:

1. For every part of cement - 6 parts of coconut husk soil (or 50 - 50 coconut husk and soil or powdered coconut husk only).

2. Refine and strain soil on 1/4" wire mesh strainer.3. If rice husk have long fibers, cut it to 1 inch size.4. Measure cement and other materials. It is better if the inside diameter of the container

measures 30cm which is enough for one bag of cement.5. Mix the ingredients well with the aid of shovel.6. Make a mountain with hole at the center to pour water. Mix well to attain desired

consistency.7. Put in a "hollow block" shaped mold the mixture of cement and rice husk. Lay mold

on its side on top of a level platform. Fill the mold completely and scrape excess.8. Place flat wood on top of the mold and invert it. Compress it like the first one and

scrape the top. If necessary add more mixture of cement and rice husk/soil.9. Remove the three sets of blocks from the mold. Remove the lock and push carefully

the molded block.10. Let the block dry under the shades for a few hours to one day after removing from the

mold. In drying let it lie on longer sides so it will slide on the longer side.11. Let it age for 10 days outside. Sprinkle water from time to time to prevent cracks.

The blocks can be used for walls or fence which will not carry weight.

Source: Salin Agham of FPRDI, DOST

Hollow Blocks from Rice Hull(or Rice Hull Ash Cement - RHAC)

Procedure

1. Burn rice hull into ashes.2. Refine the ashes.3. Mix the ff.:60 parts of cement

40 parts of rice hull ashwater

4. Put in a wooden mold.5. Let it dry.

Blocks from Lime, Clay and Sand

The National Institute of Science and Technology was able to produce blocks that doesn't need to be ignited. This block is rectangular in shape with curve on sides and can be tied on bond. It measures 8" x 8" x 6".

The provinces of La Union, Bulacan, Batangas, and Quezon and Negros Occidental have four (4) kinds of "non-metallic ores" deposit that can be used. The clay and limestone can be found in almost anywhere in the country, but the gravel and sand are abundant in Regions III, IV, VI and X.

Raw Materials: clay, lime, sand, gravel, water

Tools needed: pickax, shovel, wire strainer, wooden mold

Procedure

1. Crush blocks of clay with a pick. With a wire strainer, remove the wastes like stones, roots, twigs and others.

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2. Strain the lime and sand separately to set aside bigger pieces.3. Mix well five (5) boxes of clay, two (2) boxes of lime and two (2) boxes of sand.4. Gradually add water until desired mixture is attained. The mixture should not be too

wet or too dry to maintain the shape of blocks when placed in mold.5. Put in wooden molds and press hard until all the spaces are filled up. Scrape excess in

molds.6. Remove blocks on mold and let it stay under the shade for three days. Then dry under

the sun for (3) three more days.

Source: CRD, ITDI (DOST)

Cementless Blocks

Due to the increasing cost of cement, the Forest Products and Industries Development Commission (FORPRIDECOM) conducted a research that will produce blocks from soil and water, or a combination of one or two different wastes or wood waste like rice hull, coconut coirdust or sawdust. The binder used is lime.

Lime can be found almost anywhere in the Philippines.

Materials: limecoconut coirdustrice hullrice hull ashsandsoilwood ash

Tools needed: 1/4" wire screenmoldshovel

Procedure

1. Powder the soil and remove lumps by using 1/4" wire mesh screen.2. Mix well any combination of one or two of the following:

a. 3 parts soil + 1 part coconut coirdustb. 3 parts soil + 1 part rice hullc. 5 parts soil + 1 part limed. 5 parts soil + ½ part lime + ½ part rice hull ashe. 5 parts soil + ½ lime + ½ part wood ashf. 4 parts soil + 1 part rice hull + 1 part limeg. 2½ parts soil + 2½ part sand + ½ part lime + ½ part wood ash

3. Make a mountain-like of any of the combination and put a well at the center for water.4. Pour the material combination on the well slowly and mix with shovel. The result

must not be too dry or too wet for moulding.5. Place in molds. Shake and scrape the top.6. Dry under the shade for a few days.7. Dry under the sun for few days.

Hollow Blocks and Other Uses of Volcanic Ash

Who would think that the ashes from Mt. Pinatubo is not only a curse but a livelihood also. There is truth that God made all things in nature with goodness.

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Researchers from Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology (PHIVOLCS) found that ashes from volcanic eruption naturally possessed materials that can be used in various industries.

For Example:

1. Concrete mixture for hollow blocks making - natural binding quality useful in hollow blocks making. This can be used instead of sand with a proportion of about 1:6 (one kilo ash in 6 kilos cement). This is formed into molds (example 4"x6). If hardened for 15 days, it is 35% lighter than the one made in ordinary method.

Because of the fineness of the ash, it goes to the smallest space that are being cemented, so the concrete using this is more solid. It becomes more durable through the years. It can be used in making dikes and medium height buildings.

2. Makes the top of asphalted road shiny.

3. In making bricks, this ash can be a substitute for clay for about 20% because it contains 63% silica.

4. For making glass and crystals - for the same silica and potassium oxide contents.

5. In making ceramics and glaze for tiles, lavatory and toilet bowl.

6. Filler for making plastics, rubber, insecticide and soil fertilizer. Aside from fertilizer, it is also a good conditioner for soil in pots, for example, anthurium, because it doesn't contain germs or animal pest, that's why it is cleaner.

7. Insulation material for making cushion because of its special characteristic of maintaining heat.

8. For cleaning dirt caused by oil and grease because it is a good absorber of this kind. And because of its characteristic that it can't be burned, this is good as covers for piles of oil wastes to prevent fire.

9. Like cleanser it is used in scrubbing and cleaning kitchen utensils such as pots, pans, dishes and others.

10. Can be made into figurines and other sculpture designs.

Uses of Bloated Volcanic Ash

When the ash of volcano bloat by means of heating this between 1600°F-1700°F, cool it first, then crush slowly (so it will not be in powdered form) the uses of this are the following:

1. Filter medium

Crushed or whole, it can be used to filter water, syrup, beer and wine, fruit juices and the like, fats of animal or plants, imperfect varnish, machine oil, chemical used in dry cleaning and liquid wastes from factories.

2. For walls and ceilings.

Because of its distinctive quality of lightness and sound proofness it can be used as ingredient for wall finish and plastic board.

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"Fireproof" Tiles for Roofing and Walling from Pinatubo Ash

Procedure

1. Boil bloated ash and binder or mixed glue.2. Press the mixture.3. Cook in 200°F (93°C) heat.4. Paint a fire resistant paint so as not to pulverize. This happen if the pressure and heat

is not enough or low and with not enough binder, there seems to have dust on top.

Source: Ma. C. Anzaldo & Nora R. Campita, STII & PhilVolcs

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BOOK V - CHICKEN AND BIRDS (back to main page)

Care of Birds & Fowl in Hot Weather Uses of Egg ShellCare of Chicks Feeds for ChickenChicken Soap Powder for ChickenAmmonia - Toxic for Chicks Control Flies in the Chicken CoopGood Layers Duck RaisingMarks of a Good Layer Duck BreedingPoor Layers Feeds for DucksGathering of Eggs Raise Peking DucksSalt: Increases Egg Laying Raising TurkeysLight for Good Egg Laying Raise PigeonsStrong Egg Shells Quail Raising

Care of Birds & Fowl in Hot Weather

Birds and fowls are more suited to cold than to hot weather. They lay more eggs in cold weather because they are not stressed. Fowls do not perspire but they pant for breath and need much drinking water in hot weather. So that they will lay more eggs, do not leave them under the heat of the sun; if they are allowed to roam about, let them seek shade.

Give them wet food and crushed shells during very hot weather.

Source: Agricultural & Industrial Life, Mar-Apr 1991

Care of Chicks

The first week in newly hatched chicks is important. It is here that the health of the fowl depends, to give it good price. These first seven days is 15% of the growth and life of a growing chick.

In the natural way, the mother hen teaches the chicks, as they go about together, how to cackle, or squawk and the young ones learn to hunt for food and avoid enemies (oppressors). The mother hen also provides her chicks with heat under her wings.

But in raising chicks in numbers, these opportunities are wanting. They learn in life individually. Thus, it is necessary to provide the chicks with the right temperature, light and air, and right number in their coop.

1. Coop temperature

Chicks' temperature is 38.6°C and becomes 40.5°C in 7 days. The feathers that provide heat to their bodies are still few. Thus, many chicks die of cold within the first seven days.

The coop temperature must be 31°C-35°C in the first day. This is lowered by 3°C at the end of the first week. After this, temperature must be maintained at 21°C-24°C .

When the temperature of the coop is not right, the chicks will not approach their food or drink within 5-7 days, so many chicks die of hunger and weakness when they are cold.

When the coop temperature is right, the chicks are lively in the first 2 or 3 days; they pick up things that attract them like bright stones or colorful grains and they preen their feathers or swim in the soil.

When the coop temperature is not adequate, they cling close to one another, chirp loudly and endlessly and refuse to move.

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2. Light

In the first week, give the chickens light to enable them to keep eating. After this, familiarize them for a period of an hour without light so that they will not suffer shock when power is out. If they will not learn to eat in the dark, they will not grow fast. They will not grow quickly with mere 8 hours light and 16 hours dark.

3. Flow of Air

Airflow in the coop must be adequate enough to remove the stench of their manure. Strong wind however will make them feel cold.

4. Chick Population

Don't overpopulate the chicks in the coop. They should be just enough so as to allow free circulation of air.

5. Loss of Heat

When the chicks are clustered together, heat is not lost. The size of the coop should grow as the chicks grow. In this way, the right temperature is maintained.

6. Drinking Water

Chicks easily get thirsty, especially in hot weather. If they don't drink enough, they will not eat enough, and so will not have energy in their bodies. As such, they will chill, which could cause their death.

Drinking bowls should be numerous so that they will quickly learn to drink. These should also be in bright places so they can be easily found and accessible to approach.

Chicks that drink before eating easily gain weight.Source: Greenfields Jan 1990Chicken

Instead of providing more ventilation or cooling devices in chicken coops during hot weather, give more fat in their meals instead of pure corn so as to cool their bodies.

Chicken given fat gain weight more quickly than those given pure carbohydrates (corn) only.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal , Aug 1980

Ammonia - Toxic for Chicks

Like children, growing chicks easily get infected with disease. In coops where they are reared, respiratory sicknesses are common when they are crowded and ventilation is poor. This is because of ammonia, a gas that is emitted by the decaying feces of the chicks.

When the chicks are crowded, feces get accumulated and with this, together with moisture, the strength of ammonia increases, especially when ventilation is poor.

According to experts, experienced chicken raisers know when the number of chicks has reached a certain level that makes ammonia no longer bearable for the chicken. In such condition, ammonia lowers the weight of the chicken. The fowls lose appetite, their lungs weaken, and become vulnerable to respiratory diseases. Because of this, it is not good to allow feces to accumulate, and it is necessary to widen ventilation windows.

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Source: Greenfields Apr 1982

Good Layers

Layers will lay eggs regularly if they are kept away from noise and disturbances.

The effect of noise and disturbances on 4,000 layers was studied by four scientists from the University of Zagreb, Yugoslavia. When a strong electric bell was sounded, the number of eggs laid was decreased; when a stronger sound, the fireman's siren was sounded, decrease in eggs laid was bigger. When the 2 sounds - bell or siren were simultaneously sounded, the hens, struck with fear, tried to see the source of the noise. Not one laid egg.

In this event, 240 out of 4,000 (6%) died, 480 (9%) did not lay eggs; 3,720 (93%) suffered obstetrical defects, 1,640 (41%) got indigestion problems and 360 (9%) got respiratory sicknesses.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal Sept 1978

Poor Layers

Poor layers cost food and space, and so should be removed. The marks of a poor layer are:

The comb is pale, dry and withdrawn at the top and below the throat. The eyes are dim. The hen is thin and inactive. The appetite is poor, and the maw or crop is empty. Yellow color surrounds the eyes, legs and bill. A good layer has no such color. The hips are hard, thick and narrow (at 2 fingers wide). The rear (rectum) is yellow, small and shrunken. The body is shallow, narrow and short.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews, March 1984

Gathering of Eggs

1. Gather the eggs 3 times a day or more in hot weather. Eggs easily spoil in a warm surrounding.

2. Put the eggs in a basket or container.3. Sort the eggs according to size.4. Wipe off dirt or stains before storing.5. Keep in a cool and well ventilated place.6. Always keep the containers clean so as not to stain the eggs.7. Cool off the containers first (if warm) before putting in the eggs.8. Sell or dispose the eggs 2 times a week or more often so as to retain only the most

freshly laid ones.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews March 1984

Salt: Increases Egg Laying

The sodium content of salt is necessary for egg laying. But this element is not provided in commercial feeds because it will increase the cost.

To enable the hen to produce well, mix 200 gms of salt for every 2 sacks of feed.

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It has been observed by researchers that chickens lay eggs 29% short when their feed lacks salt.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews Mar-Apr 1986

Light for Good Egg Laying

Light is important in the setting up of a coop for layers. It has much to do in the maturation of the growing layers and their capability to lay plenty.

The rules are:

1. Do not increase lighting in the coop of growing layers. This hastens their maturity and it makes them start laying eggs even while very young, but the eggs are small.

2. If the layers are already laying eggs, do not decrease lighting. It has effect on the hormones of the layer -- either activate or suppress them.

3. So it is suggested that from 4 to 20 weeks of a growing layer, the length of sunlight is 13 hours, if possible 14-16 hours a day.

A 50-watt bulb is adequate for a 25 sq.m. coop. The ceiling where it will hang is from 2.4"-2.7" (inches).

Source: PCARRD Farmnews Mar 1984

Strong Egg Shells

According to studies in the University of Guelph, Ontario, Canada, a laying hen given Vitamin D when feed bears stronger egg shells than those not given Vitamin D.Several groups of layers were given different doses of Vitamin D3 (calciferol, derived from the fish liver oil). Those not given with the vitamin laid less eggs, and their shells easily broke. After 4 weeks, their egg laying decreased by 30%, and either with thin shells or without shell. But those given Vitamin D3 in their diet laid normal eggs with strong shells. Those given 125 units Vitamin D3 only, also laid equal number of eggs as those given 500 units, but the eggs were not normal in shape and the shells were not strong.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal

Uses of Egg Shells

According to researchers from Brent School, Baguio City, egg shells have certain uses that are not benefited from, such as:

Fertilizer -- egg shells contain calcium, phosphorus, potassium, and sulfur. When applied on cabbage plants, the leaves became wider, greener and the heads bigger.

Cement -- although it does not dry easily, cement from egg shells are smooth binder for bricks in the following proportions:

1 part cement 2 parts crushed egg shells

Paste -- strengthens paste when mixed with starch.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal March 1981

Feed for Chickens

1. Watermelon rind

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Researchers at UP Los Baños fed watermelon rind to chickens for 6 months. These were compared to chicken given ordinary commercial feed. They observed that commercial feeds can be replaced with watermelon rind up to 20%.

Method:

a. Boil the rind until cooked.b. Dry in the sun.c. Grind and mix with ordinary feed.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal Nov 1981

2. Sunflower SeedsResearchers in India tried feeding 18% up to 26% protein (from the resulting cakes after oil has been extracted from the sunflower seeds) to growing chickens aging up to 70 days. These grew faster and consumed more feeds than those not given sunflower cakes.

They also observed that feeding the chickens with seed coats did not cause any harm.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal March 1981

3. Tobacco Seeds

In places where tobacco is widely planted, farmers know that every plant can yield about 30 grams. To save on feeds, researchers tried replacing 20% of the feeds with tobacco seeds. Nothing adverse was observed in the chicken, neither in taste nor in shape.

Tobacco seeds contain: 20% protein (38% if newly harvested),15% crude fiber and 4% carbohydrates.

Source: PCARRD Monitor June 1989

4. Banana Leaves

According to researchers in Southern Mindanao Agricultural Research in Kabacan, North Cotabato, broilers fed with 5% chopped banana leaves gained weight almost 1-1/2 kilos more than those fed with commercial starter mash ration or with 10% added banana leaves.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal June 1982

5. Banana Peels

Method:

Chop fine raw saba peels. Boil for one hour, drain and cool. For every kilo of dried banana peel, add:

150 gms dried chicken manure 100 gms rice bran (darak)

Mix well and dry in the sun. Pulverize further up to about 1 mm sieve

This can be mixed up to 15% commercial broiler starter mash and finisher mash.

Example: 850 gm commercial mash150 gm banana peel and added mixture

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1 kilo

For broiler feed, ration diet is starter mash from day 1 to day 42, and finisher mash from 42-49 days.

Chickens fed 25% with this in 56 days made no difference in weight with those fed with 100% corn.

Source: Completed R&D Projects (ISN 297) STII-DOST

6. Rabbit Manure

According to British Poultry Science Report (1981), for every kilo of broiler feed, 100-200 gm dried rabbit manure can be added. Dried rabbit manure according to their research, contains 18.8% raw protein, 9% water, and 19.9% MJ energy in every kilo.

7. Seaweeds

Two kinds of brown algae can be mixed with the chicken feed in the following way:

a) dry algae in the sun until dryb) pulverize and add to the feed at 5% amount.

Every kilo of algae is 20 gms powder that contains:

8.76% raw protein7.76% raw fiber36.67% ash and46.26% free nitrogen extract

Every kilo of this contains 2,452 calories.

Source: Technological Information Pilot System AgriBo 62/1 May 25, 1989 Mexico

8. Water Lily

According to UPLB Researchers, water lily is rich in protein making it suitable as feed for chicken.

Procedure:

1. Pulverize (grind) water lily leaves2. Mix the greenish paste-like substance with water and stir well to dissolve protein.3. Screen the mixture to separate fibers.4. Heat the liquid to 80oC to coagulate protein components, dry and pulverize.

The result is the water hyacinth leaf protein concentrate (WHLPC) which is an excellent substitute to ¼ soybean meals as feed for chicks aged 1-40 days-old.

WHLPC is also rich in calcium and potassium and contains 35% raw protein with 11% roughage.

WLHPC, although do not necessarily aid in growing chicks, it lessens the cost of feeding. It also lessens the risks of flooding due to clogging of waterlines as well as oxygen depletion in water bodies.

Source: Phil. Farmers Journal, August 1980

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Control Flies in the Chicken Coop

1. Dissolve Erythrocin B. in water. (This is a food color so it is harmless to humans).2. Spray this solution on the chicken manure. When the flies alight or the manure, their

legs get the erythrocin. When they get exposed to sunlight, they die in a few minutes.

Erythrocin B in the flies, when exposed to sunlight, creates a kind of oxygen that is poison to them -- whether they are still in the larval stage or already hatched flies.

Erythrocin is safe in the environment because this stays only for two hours in water, when under direct sunlight. However, in the chicken manure, about 80% of this dye lasts for about a week.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal July 1982

Soap Powder for ChickenAccording to farmers with long experience in chicken raising, mixing powder soap with the feed increases the weight of the chicken more than does the adding of feed.

This is because detergent aids in the process of digestion in the chicken, reduces fat, and suppresses some parasites in the intestinal tract.

The amount is: 2 grams Tide (or powdered detergent) for every kilo broiler mash feed.

Source: Greenfields Sept 1989

Duck Raising

1. The availability of water for ducks for swimming does not affect much their egg laying. It does affect their food intake -they eat more when they can swim, rather than when given only drinking water.

2. The size of the coop is best, if not smaller, than 3.5 sq. ft. for every duck.3. If artificial lighting is used, add 2-4 hours more daily, aside from 12 hours of natural

day light.4. If natural feeds from the sea are not available (shrimps, shell or fish) give them half

feed and half chicken laying mass.5. Supplementary feed like Furavin, Afsillin or Agromix may be given for egg layers.6. Ducks like wet food better than dry. It makes their eggs bigger and heavier.

Balut made from incubator makes no difference from those produced from the mother's nest, if the eggs will be laid on the tray from 14-18 days in the incubator (see Tekno-Tulong II - Balut-Making).

The best length of days for making salted eggs is 19 days.

Source: Selected R&D Projects Completed NSDB

Duck Breeding

According to experts from the Philippine Council for Agricultural and Resources Research (Los Baños), the following are effective rules for duck raising:

1. Maintain the right number of ducks in every coop. One male for every 5 to 10 females. Leave only a few "extra" males in another coop to take the place of any that might die or may not be productive. The signs are:

the male duck hisses, while a female duck quacks the tail of a male duck curls up

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2. The male duck must be a month older than the female to make sure that they are mature for mating.

3. Select healthy ducks -- good shape, good feathers, and lively eyes.

Do not get sick looking ones.

Source: Phil. Farmers Journal, March 1981

Feed for Ducks

1. Banana peelings

Researchers found that banana peelings contain more protein, fat and fibers more than does rice bran. It also contains plenty of calcium but less in phosphorus.

Method of Preparation:

a. Dry in the sun for a week mud-like rotten banana peels (from the biogas digester).b. Pulverize when dried.c. Substitute this for rice bran in the proportion of 33%.

Source: NSTA Technology Journal Oct.-Dec. 1986

2. Cassava and Camote

According to researchers from the Visayas State College of Agriculture, feeding ducks with camote and cassava makes them produce more eggs than if they were fed with pure corn.

Ducks given 20%, 30%, or 40% dried grated camote or cassava weighed the same as those given pure corn. But this is practical only in places where camote or cassava need not be bought.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews Jan 1984

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3. Seaweeds

Researchers from UP Los Baños made a study on feeding ducks with seaweeds. The 45 ducks that were fed half seaweeds and half palay laid more eggs than those fed with pure palay.

Because of the low cost of seaweeds (in their place) the cost of feed with 50% supplement became lower.Source: Farmnews Mar 15, 1983Raise Peking Ducks

In Red China, the raising of Peking ducks is a progressive business that is not easily copied by competitors. This is because the Chinese are particular about the quality of the cooked duck -- the skin should be brittle, the flesh juicy but not fatty.

This quality of duck is not attained unless the raising of the duck and the manner of slaughtering is right.

From the hatching of the egg until the duck is slaughtered, it takes about 49-55 days. From its 28th day, the feathers of the duck are yellow from its emergence. Feed this with plenty of protein and vitamins until it reaches about one and one fourth

(1.25) kilo. In the next 9-15 days, feed the duck with fibrous feed. Its feathers are now becoming

white, and the duck is taking shape. Its weight increases by half or 3/4 kilo. In the last fifteen (15) days force the duck to eat about 800 gms of mixed starch,

millet, sorghum and hull (of wheat) if any. This will increase its weight by one-fourth (1/4) kilo every day.

This is now ready for roasting when it reaches 2½ to 2-3/4 kilo. Cook in 270°C heat for about 30-40 minutes. Its melting fat helps to cook the flesh,

thus preventing overcooking. Slaughtering is one by one, not by machine so as not to break the skin, which reduces

fat. Its bones are brittle, and using a machine might break the neck, wings or legs, which will make it unacceptable in first class restaurants. The removal of feathers is also manually done.

What makes Peking duck expensive is in its proper setting.

Source: Greenfields Feb. 1990

Raising Turkeys

Turkeys are easier to raise than chicken. And turkey meat is more expensive and easily sold in hotels.

According to those with experience in raising turkeys, the following may be used as guides:

Turkeys may be allowed to roam about, and gather in barn at night. Since turkeys eat plants, those that they should not eat must be fenced. Besides grass, turkeys should be fed with mixed grated coconut, fruit peels, corn,

sorghum, fish and shrimps. Turkeys in coops (that are elevated from the ground), consume more food than those

roaming about. But they should not be allowed to stay in coop always because this will easily wear out the flooring of their house because of their weight.

For 500 turkeys, 15 sacks of feed are normally consumed weekly, but this is reduced if they are allowed to roam.

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One way is to have a shelter in the midst of their pasteurland where they will always find food and water.

This shelter must also provide place for sleep and nest. The shelter must be about three (3) meters high, five (5) meters wide and 10 meters long. The four sides are open, and the floor can absorb manure. In one side are nests, and at the other are food and water in separate containers.

The flooring should be three (3) meters longer than the shelter, fenced with about five (5) feet wire where they can mate and spread out their wings, and eat.

If the weather is good, they should be allowed to roam to pick insects and eat grass. So as not to run out of forage or overeat them in a place, they should be transferred from place to place in the field, separated by wire fence.

Feeding is twice a day -- in the morning before they are set free, and in the afternoon when they come back.

Feed must contain 24% protein, which is not attained in most commercial feeds. In the U.S., turkeys are given: 24% protein, 2% calcium and 0.9% phosphorus. Here, they are given 16% protein, 24% calcium and 1% phosphorus. Turkeys grow up to five (5) kilos in four months in this diet. Normally, a male turkey weighs 10 kilos and a female 7 kilos within 18 weeks.

They must always be provided with food and clean water. If necessary (which is not often) they are given powdered antibiotic in their food and drink or if necessary, by injection.

The turkey chick cannot see up to age one week after hatching, so they are spoonfed until they can eat by themselves. (In the U.S., these are given milk, which is too expensive for us).

For every 20-25 female turkeys, only one male is needed. So that egg laying will be continuous, the mother turkey is not allowed to sit on her eggs. These are gathered and hatched in the incubator.

Eggs are gathered in April or May, and incubated around July. They are hatched in the first week of August and are raised from 26-28 weeks. (The

raisers set these for Thanksgiving Day or Christmas). Turkeys molt (shed feathers) once a year. After molting, they lay more eggs. So, the

raisers make them molt in preparation for Christmas. Molting is hastened when food is scarce and day is short. So, the feed of layers is reduced and are kept longer in a dark coop and by releasing them much later in the morning.

Turkeys diseases generally, are chicken pox, blackening of the head, birds' pest, neck paralysis (can't swallow") and external parasite. The blackening of the head is the most serious disease of turkeys. This is acquired from feeds and contaminated water. To prevent

Source: Greenfields Feb. 1990

Raise Pigeons

Raising pigeons is not only a hobby but a good earner too. They multiply fast if proper care is given, and almost every part of a pigeon has use. For instance, the feathers and bones, after flesh meat has been removed, can be used as feed for chicken; its manure is feed for cows.

At the start, allow the pairs of pigeons in their new home. If they are not paired, place together equal number of male or female.

1. Provide clean food and water everyday.2. Always keep their coop clean.3. Separate immediately the sick or sick-looking ones.4. In preparing for egg laying, scatter leaves in their coop before the mother bird lays

eggs otherwise eggs may be lost among the leaves and never be hatched.

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Keep note (record) of the day of egg laying, hatching, number of chicks and their weight each, and number of deaths. This is important in removing those that are not productive and those that are poor in appetite and in growth.

A month after hatching, the chick should weigh 500 grams or more.

Feeding

1. If their feed is grains or commercial feed, they should be: whole grains, not fine or powdered the mixture must be adequate in vitamins free from molds, weevil, pest or damage

2. Feed may consist of corn, sorghum, soybean, rice or legume seeds (mongo).

3. Put the food in a place where they can eat all day. Separate grains from feed.

4. When raised in quantity, allow them to eat plenty until they hatch their eggs.

As the chicks grow, allow them to eat freely so as to grow fast and get sold quickly.

If they don't get sold within a month from hatching, or they lose weight, place them in a coop where their movement will not be so free, and give them plenty of food so as to grow fast.

Selling qualities are: 1st class -- 500 gramsBroiler -- not older than 50 daysFree from bruises and wounds or insect bitesFeathers are clean and bright

Baths

Pigeons like to take a bath, so they must have their own bathing containers with about 7.5 cm deep water. They bathe 2 or 3 times a week in the morning if the weather is good.

Remove the bath after they are through.

Provide also clean sand (from the seashore) where they can roll themselves and pick up small shells and stones.

When pigeons bathe often, they become sturdy against pests. Protect them from pests and diseases, and consult a veterinarian for this.

Reduction of Old Pigeons

Every year, remove 25% of old birds and replace them with newly born ones to keep active their propagation. Take care of half of this number until age 5-6 weeks. A progressive mother pigeon can produce 10 chicks a year.

Source: Greenfields Mar-Apr 1990

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Quail Raising

1. Start with a pair that is 30-35 days old, with smooth feathers, and without streaks of white or black.

2. The pair must be of same stock. A Japanese quail weighs 100 grams at age 30-35 days, and 120 grams at 60 days. The older, the heavier.

3. The pair must come from good stock and good layers -- 65% is average for 30 days.4. En the first five days, the brooders should be kept at 35°C temperature. Brooder is

from 1-15 days old and at 30°C on the 10th day when the feathers and wings begin to grow.

5. Keep a lighted bulb to control the heat in the cage. Shield the bulb with paper.6. After 10 days, remove the paper; cover the feeder with one-fourth mesh wire so as to

keep the feed from being scratched out by the chicks. If the heat, food and water are adequate, mortality will be only be about 5%.

7. After 15 days, the birds may be transferred to their own coop. Transfer only the healthy ones and of the same sizes; separate the small ones.

8. Don't expose the birds to light more than 12 hours as they grow.9. On the 35th day, males will develop dark brown feathers on the chest. Transfer them

to the egg layers.

If the number of females equal that of males, 40 percent of them will lay eggs.

10. Eut males with the egg layers only for hatching -- one male for every 6 females if the quail is Japanese. -- one male for every 3 females if the quail is American.

Source: Santinig, Sept. 6, 1991

According to researchers from the Tarlac College of Agriculture, it was observed that the quail lays more eggs if the feed will be supplemented with 5% copra meal, not more.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews Mar 15, 1983

BOOK V - FARM ANIMALS (back to main page)

Goat Raising Water Lily for PigsBathe the Goat Pigs Also Need Attention and CareRaising Rabbits Foot-And-Mouth Disease (FMD)Yucca Plant for Poultry and Hogs Sugarcane Bagasse: Animal FeedCare of the Farrowing Pig Cow-Carabao FeedsWhy are Some Pigs Born Dead? Effect of Light on a Nursing CowHealthy Piglets Lime - Cure for Cows’ TeatsCure for Pigs’ Diarrhea Uses of Cow DungEpidemic of Pigs Feed for Farm Animals During CalamityVitamin C for Pigs Care of Farm AnimalsCheap Protein for Pigs: Scrap Fish Medicinal Plants for AnimalsPig Manure - Feed for Pigs

Goat Raising

Goats can be reared in the pasteurland, but rearing them in cages has more advantages such as:

1. Cage-reared goats are less exposed to parasites.2. They are better fed, and so the mother goat gives more milk.3. Less field space is necessary for growing fodder and grass. For every six (6) females

and one male goat, one-fourth (1/4) hectare of land would be enough.4. The caged goats are easier tended and controlled.

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However, more capital is necessary, and needs a worker to gather fodder to feed the goats and clean the cages.

As preparation for the pasteur, plant such grasses and plants that the goats will need, like paragrass,napier,madre de cacao (kakawate), alibangbang and ipil-ipil. Apply as fertilizer for these plants the dried goat manure so as to make them flourish.

Cage

1. Wooden house, bamboo floor, with roof and open sides.2. The floor is about 1.5 meters high from the ground so as to facilitate cleaning the

manure.3. At the sides of the house, provide food and drinking water.4. Provide space outside to allow roaming around.5. The nursing mothers and the weaning kids should have a separate house. One side

must have a divider to separate the small ones from the mother at night.6. Six (6) male goats are housed together.

Food

1. The aforementioned plants are feed for goats.2. Don't give too much for each meal, of fresh forage.3. Goats don't like dirty grass or acidic (spoiled) food.4. They like variety of grasses for each meal.

Breeding

1. When the goats are about 6-8 months old, select good breeder and milker females and aggressive males.

2. A female goat may be mated at age 10-12 months. A male goat is ready to mate at age12 months. At the start, let him mate only a few, but as it grows older, the male goat can mate as many as 25 at age one and a half years.

3. A female goat's fertile period lasts 2-3 days. The signs are:

it begins to bleat (me-e-eh) and wags its tail. it urinates often. the genital is inflamed and secretes mucous the goat rides on other goats.

4. Mating should be once in the morning and once in the afternoon, and repeat next morning to be sure that there was fertilization.

5. Then separate the mated females. These will be pregnant in three (3) weeks if they won't manifest flirting.

Parturition (Delivery)

1. The goat's gestation period is 145-155 days. Thus, the day of mating should be recorded.

2. When the time of delivery is near, the mother goat bleats (cries me-e-eh), discharges mucous from the genital, is cranky and scratches her bed.

3. At delivery, her mucous discharge is yellowish.4. When the kid is coming out of its mother, help the delivery by pulling out the kid, but

make sure that the hands of the helper are clean. Apply alcohol on the hands to avoid infection. Normally, the head comes out first. The kids are often two, rarely three.

5. Wipe the nose of the newly born kid to enable it to breathe freely.6. Apply iodine at the end of the umbilical cord, and put a knot or tie it.

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7. When the kids are four (4) days old, remove the newly growing horns to keep them from hurting one another. Only a veterinarian or one with experience should undertake this.

8. Others are: putting of mark on the ear one week after birth; cut off the nails once a month, and castration from one to four months old.

Milking

1. Milk the mother goat five (5) days after delivery. Continue milking up to 3-5 months until the kids are weaned, or 60 days before another delivery.

2. Milk the goat in the early morning before the kids suck.3. If the mother goat has abundant milk, she can be milked again toward afternoon.4. Give the mother goat 200 to 300 gm concentrate daily to increase her milk.

Weaning

If the goat is raised to milk, do not totally wean the kid from the mother when this is 3-5 days old.

Separate the kid from the mother at night.

If milk production is only secondary, separate the kid totally when this is 3 months old.

Make sure the kids are fed and given water while they are separated from the mother.

In this way, the kids will quickly learn to eat and drink even while still young.

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Care

1. Allow the goats to exercise themselves 3-4 hours outside their cage.2. Give them regular vaccination against disease.3. Separate the sick and call for a veterinarian.

The common sicknesses of the goat are pneumonia and parasites.

Pneumonia:

Usually affects the goat with the onset and toward the end of the rainy season. Don't allow them to be exposed to rain or draft. Signs of pneumonia are difficult and fast breathing.

Give the goat liquamycin, Tylan 200 or Combiotic injection.

Parasites:

Give the goat tetrazole or thixbenzole every six months.

Source: Greenfields Jan & Feb 1990 & PCARRD Farmers Dec 1986

Bathe the Goat

A goat raiser from Miag-ao, Iloilo, made a study on the effect of giving a bath to his goats. Giving the same food, one group was given a bath once a week, and the other not. It was observed that the goats given a weekly bath grew and gained weight faster than those not given a bath. They were weighed every two weeks.

The goats were slaughtered after three months. It was also seen that the meat of those given baths were more acceptable in taste and color and had less odor than those not given baths.

Manner of bathing the goats

1. Pour about two (2) liters water on each goat.2. Then follow with a liter of water with a tablespoon soap. Let this stay on the goat's

body for about 3 minutes.3. Rinse with about seven liters water.4. Let them get dry before bringing them back to the cage.

Source: Greenfields Jan 1989

Raise Rabbits

Rabbit meat contains 20% protein, which is higher than the protein content of pork (17%) and chicken (19%) although slightly lower than beef's (22%).

In texture, odor, color and taste, rabbit meat is similar to chicken's and hardly contains fat. It is easier to raise rabbits than chicken or pig.

Care

1. For a start, one can raise two (2) females age 2 months (just weaned) and a male.2. Select a good breed like New Zealand White and California White.3. Select a young rabbit from a prolific mother that bears well and nurses her kids well.4. Select an aggressive male, healthy, and without defect for breeding.

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5. Each rabbit must have its pen or cage where it can stay quietly, not directly under the heat of the sun, about 8x10 sq.ft. or 2.5 ft x 4 ft x 2 ft high.

6. Separate the male from the female -- the rabbit likes its own private place -- undisturbed by others.

Feeding

1. The rabbit is a vegetarian -- feed once in the morning and once toward late afternoon.

a) To supplement their diet, add:grains___________________ 15-25%soybean meal_____________ 5%copra meal_______________ 4%ipil-ipil leaves_____________ .1%powdered shell or shellfish___ 125%salt_____________________ .25%

b) green leafy vegetables: pechay, mustard, lettuce, camote leaves, cabbage, young bamboo, winged beans, malunggay, and similar vegetables.

c) root crops -- camote, gabi, yam, potatoes, carrot, turnip, raddishd) grass -- cut from the lawn, stems and leaves of soybean plant, eggplant,

mongo, cadios, beans, etc.e) banana peels, melon and watermelon peels (but not papaya or sayote)f) burnt rice from the kettle, bread (no molds) toasted bread, etc.g) always provide clean drinking water, frequently changed, especially if the rabbit

is nursing kids.

Breeding

At mating time, the female rabbit becomes restless, loses appetite to eat, and the genital is inflamed.

Put the female rabbit in the pen of the male. If the male rabbit is placed in the female's pen, the male might be killed because the female doesn't want to be disturbed in her place.

The best time for mating rabbits is early in the morning (5:00 am - 8:00 am) or about 4:00 pm -7:00 pm not less than twice.

Don't leave the female rabbit overnight in the male rabbit's pen.

Delivery

1. The rabbit's pregnancy is from 28 days (if young) up to 32 days if it is matured.2. When delivery time is near, the mother rabbit becomes jittery or upset -- it scratches

the floor of its pen, scatters or disarranges it, pulls it own fur, and lays it on her nest.3. At the time of delivery, the mother rabbit doesn't want to be disturbed. It becomes

nervous, and so all disturbances must be avoided, like the presence of children, cats, dogs or others.

4. Don't touch the small ones within the 24 hours after birth because when the mother rabbit senses that her kids have been touched, she will abandon them or eat them.

5. If the small rabbits manifest restlessness, dissolve one-half (½) teaspoon Sulmet in a liter of water and let them drink this for 3 days. Terramycin powder will also do.

6. After 10 days, the small ones will leave their nest and begin to eat vegetables; when these are three (3) weeks old, they will eat other foods.

7. At this time, the mother rabbit can be mated again, and the small ones be fattened and eventually slaughtered -- about five (5) months old.

When raising rabbits, all important events must be noted, such as date of mating, delivery, nursing, first feeding of vegetables, and such others that will facilitate care.

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Source: Greenfields Feb 1990

Yucca Plants for Poultry and Hogs

Yucca contains a kind of steroid saponin in its juice that lowers the ammonium content in the manure of animals like pigs, chicken, goats and others.

Destructive ammonia and other poisonous gases created by decaying organic wastes (biological wastes like plants or animals). Accumulation of these gases cause serious ventilation problem. When the ammonia level is high, the animals or fowls get sick or die. Furthermore, this also makes it difficult for the caretaker who cleans the pens because of the emanating odor, and causes corrosion of metals in the pen or coop.

Juice of the yucca schidigera may be mixed with the food of young animals like piglets, and this can be mixed directly with the manure to reduce its release of ammonia.

All parts of the yucca have use. Among the Indians of the Southwast of America and Mexico, there was a time when the yucca was next in importance to water in their life. Flowers, fruits, peels, seeds, wood, leaves and roots are all edible. As early as 1930, the yucca has been studied in Southwast U.S., and it was seen that this was also good for cows. In 1965, this was approved as food for humans without any prohibition.

Source: Greenfields Aug 1989

Care of the Farrowing Pig

For new raisers of pigs, it is advisable to consult veterinarian in the care of mother pigs and their piglets.

1. Some delivering mothers may need more attention during delivery of their piglets when the interval between piglets gets longer than 20 minutes. Give more care to the last piglets to come out because it is here that most piglets are born dead.

2. Take care that the piglets do not lose oxygen during birth.3. Take care that the mother pig does not suffer from exhaustion or lose strength during

delivery so that she can nurse the piglets well.4. One way of facilitating delivery is by giving prostaglandin injection, especially when

the mother pig is getting old.5. Giving oxytocin also facilitates delivery and reduces the birth of dead piglets.6. A reminder to the one assisting at the pig's delivery is to keep his hands and arms

clean, and to use jelly as lubricant in pulling out the piglet. Without this, there is danger in hurting the pig's genital and thereby cause infection, which could result in delivering dead piglets.

7. A newly born piglet is enveloped in a thin membrane. This must be removed to facilitate breathing. Piglets born weak cannot emerge from this, and so need help lest they suffocate.

8. Clean the newly born piglet; after about an hour cut off the umbilical cord, leaving about 5 cm; apply tincture of iodine where it is cut.

9. With the help of pliers, nip off the small teeth close to the gums (8 in all); apply tincture of iodine on the wound.

10. Also cut off the tail (with the help of scissors) apply iodine on the wound; unless the piglet is intended for breeding.

11. Help the piglet find its mother's teat even while the mother is farrowing. Keep the piglets and the whole brood clean and dry.

Why Are Some Pigs Born Dead?

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It is rather common that some pigs are born dead. But if this happens often with a particular mother hog, there must be reason.

It must however be ascertained if the piglet is born dead or just die soon after birth, which could have been saved if immediately noticed. Sometimes certain piglets are born so weak, that they are unable to overcome the membrane in which they are enveloped, and so get suffocated in it; or perhaps were chilled soon after birth, causing their death.

The piglet born dead in its mother's womb at the beginning of pregnancy is hard and deteriorating.

The piglet that died before birth looks normal except for its sunken eyes.

To be certain if the piglet was born dead or just died soon after birth, slice a piece of the piglet's lung and place it in a pail of water. If this floats, it means that the piglet had breathed before death (because of the presence of air in the lungs) so, it was alive when it emerged and nothing can be done to save it.

1. There are more piglets born dead among multiple farrowing, usually the fifth or the last three piglets. This is perhaps because of the length of the womb and the umbilical cord. For about one meter of the cord to be borne by the piglet, (while it is normally only 70 cm long) in its length of passage, the cord is stretched and cut and so the last piglets lose breath before they are able to emerge.

2. It could also be due to the aging mother, (which may have farrowed five or six times). Usually, delivering dead piglets start from the fourth to the seventh farrowing. The next farrowing can be seen in the piglets that have been delivered.

3. Other causes could be the stress borne by the mother pig before delivery -- perhaps she has had a fight or had undergone much difficulty in the last weeks before delivery.

4. Fat mother pig have difficulty in delivery.5. If the mother is anemic or lacks Vitamin E, the piglet cannot survive its delivery

because it also lacks Vitamin E.6. Death of the piglet could also be due to the mother pig's lack of Vitamin A in her diet,

months before delivery.7. If the mother pig's meal becomes contaminated with molds, it will deliver weak or

dead piglets.8. If at a certain time several mother pigs delivery dead piglets infections or sickness

could be the cause. There are diseases for instance that are transferable from cats to pigs, but seldom vice versa. If the mother pig gets contaminated while the piglet is still in its womb, this could result in abortion. But if the infection comes about at the latter part of the pregnancy, the piglet will be born dead.

9. If the pig pen lacks proper ventilation, and much more when there is a gas leak around, or if the carbon monoxide level (from vehicle exhausts) is high, this could result in the death of the piglet in the pig's womb.

Source: Greenfields May 1990

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Healthy Piglet

In raising a pig, choose a healthy, active and fast growing piglet.

Signs of a healthy piglet:

1. The hair is shiny and fine.2. The eyes are not languid (or sad looking), clean and no dried up secretion in the

eyes.3. The belly does not sag.4. The features are balanced. View the piglet from afar to see how it stands and

move.

Care:

1. Keep the piglet in a clean and dry pen.2. Give it clean food and water.3. About 5-10 piglets can be raised in a 7 sq.m. pen.4. Give the pigs a daily bath, especially in summer.5. Always keep the pen clean.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews Apr 30, 1980

Cure for Pig's Diarrhea

Diarrhea of piglets and growing pigs may be caused by active microbes they get from the soil. Upon delivery, the mother pig is sprawled on the ground where bacteria may adhere to its teats, which in turn are suck by the newly born piglets. The piglets further get bacteria when they learn to snout the earth in search for food.

According to experts, the microbes that the piglets pick up from the earth end up in their abdomen where they adhere to the thin membranes of the stomach and obstruct the digestive process. Thus, indigestion results, excreting liquid and undigested what they ate. It is also because of this that their feces do not solidify and are thus secreted as liquid or watery.

Worse, the microbes that get into the stomach, bruise the stomach, resulting in bleeding.

Cure:

Give 5% powdered coconut shell charcoal and mix it with the pig's meal.

Medicines for diarrhea are black like charcoal because this contain activated carbon which has a strong capacity to absorb. Charcoal from coco shell also contain carbon. Carbon negates the action of the microbes by driving them from the inner walls of the stomach by enveloping the microbes and absorbing the excess liquid from the stomach of the piglet, thus enabling the feces to become solid.

If this will not work, give the piglet the necessary antibiotic against diarrhea.

A long term cure for diarrhea or disease is cleanliness in their surrounding. Always disinfect the place besides keeping it clean.

Epidemic of Pigs

A particular disease of pigs called "pseudorabies" also afflicts other four-footed animals. Sometimes the symptoms begin to show around 90-120 days, but some pigs die within 2

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days after the signs are manifest, and others die within 12 hours thus, pigs must be vaccinated before they get sick.

Signs of the disease:

1. The pig begins to cough and lose appetite.2. It walks backward and has no coordination in its movements.3. Fever is at 41°C.4. The pig throws up yellowish or has salivary vomiting.5. The pig's eyes are reddish.6. Pigs weighing 40-50 kilos or more are easily vulnerable and die within 2 days.7. Sometimes, this disease is like pneumonia because the infection spreads near the lungs,

and once the animal is weakened, other sicknesses come in.8. If the pig with this disease is slaughtered, the liver shows white spots.

To counteract the disease:

Some pigs that have been afflicted with this disease may recover even without medication, but some stop growing. And even after recovering, the sickness may recur once the animal becomes weakened.

Vaccination:

1. Vaccination is necessary two times a year for farrowing pigs, and every 6 months thereafter.

2. Once at age 7 months for fattening pigs until they are sold.3. Piglets of vaccinated mother pigs are immune only until 8 weeks. They should be

vaccinated after this time.

Effects of the disease on the pig are as follows:

Male pigs: - the testicles change shape- they lose their aggressiveness in mating.

Female pigs - abortion may result, or deliver dead piglets or the piglet maydie in the womb.

- may become sterile.

Source: Greenfields July 1989

Vitamin C for Pigs

According to researchers from the UP at Los Baños, hogs given 800 mg Vitamin C in every kilo of feed gain weight and grow faster than those not given the Vitamin. And when slaughtered, those given Vitamin C in their diet have more lean meat and did not have much fat on their back.

Source: Philippine Farmers' Journal March 1981

Cheap Protein for Pigs: Scrap Fish

One of the richest sources of protein for pigs is fish. But fishmeal is expensive and not easily available in some places. However, in places by the sea, there are opportunities to provide their pigs with cheap protein.

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Manner of Preparation:

1. Place the fishes in containers that are not metallic, must be clay pot or enamel.2. For every 100 kilos of different fishes, add 3 liters mallic acid (or sulfuric acid). Acid

stops the growth of microbes in the flesh of the fishes and from deterioration.3. Put in an equal amount of corn, cassava, or grains. This will increase the carbohydrate

content of the mixture and will lower the acid percentage in the feed.

The resulting 1.5% acid will not damage the stomach or intestine of the pigs.

Source: Phil. Farmers'Journal March 1980

Pig Manure -- Feed for Pigs

It has been studied at the UP at Los Baños that fresh pig manure contains more or less 6% raw protein, 3.77% fat, 4% fiber, 70% water, 4.8% ash, less than 12% carbohydrates, over half percent calcium, and over a half percent phosphorus (which is higher than those derived from plants).

When dried, this provides 27.7% protein, 43% carbohydrate, 16.5% ash, 10% water, 10-87% fiber and different minerals, and a kind of bacteria from the large intestine of the pig that ferments. This bacteria digests food that are difficult to digest like fibers, and this adds to the protein content.

Manner of Preparation:

1. Mix with ordinary meal like: 4 kilo copra meal, 1 kilo rice bran in every 5 kilos of pig manure.

2. Allow this to ferment in seven (7) days.3. Mix with an equal amount of regular feed.

It was seen by the researchers that this mixture was acceptable to the pigs. They weighed 93.3% kilos in 111 days which were formerly 35.7 kilos. Those not given this feed weighed only 89.2 kilos in the same manner.

Source: Agricultural and Industrial Life, Fil S79 A45 STII

Water Lily for the Pigs

Water lily contains protein that can be substituted 25% for protein provided by soybean for a growing pig.

1. Grind the water lily leaves and strain in 5 mesh wire to get the juice that contains the substance.

2. Let it stay overnight to allow the solids to settle.3. Dry the residue in the sun or in a dryer. When dried, grind in 20 min. size.4. Mix with the pig's feed.

Source: Selected R&D Projects NSDB 1981 Completed.

Pigs Also Need Attention and Care

Many studies have been made and had shown that all forms of life -- animal or plant respond to care.

It was tried by researchers on 3 months old piglets. One group was talked to and patted about 2 minutes three times a week. Another group was simply fed, pushed aside, shouted at, or not shown any attention as in the first group.

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It was seen that the piglets that were "loved" grew faster than those "unloved." And mother pigs given care and attention gave more or less 21 piglets a year, while those raised ordinarily gave only about 16 piglets a year.

Source: Farming Today April 1983

Foot-And-Mouth Disease (FMD)

Foot-and-mouth disease is an infectious disease afflicting cloven footed animals like cattle, carabao and pigs, characterized by ulcerous lesions at the mouth, teats and hoofs. The sick animal has fever, suffers lameness and loss of appetite.

Mode of Transmission

Manner of InfectionThe virus of FMD can be transmitted through the air as far as 50 meters away, by

direct contact with the infected animal, or indirectly through carriers like humans, other animals, flies and mosquitoes, and infected things and utensils.

Humans, however, seem to have a natural resistance to the disease and so far, no case has been reported of Filipinos having contracted it.

When a human inhales the virus, he harbors the disease in his body for as long as 24 hours, and can transmit it to others through the respiratory tract.

Control

1. Spray the animals' quarters with formalin to protect from infestation.2. Treat with alum or wash with concocted guava leaves. With continuous treatment, the

disease can be cured in two or three weeks provided there is no complication of other ailments. Weight loss however, could take time to recover.

Precautionary Measures

1. Cook well through boiling meat that is suspected to have the infection, or in vinegar to destroy the virus.

2. Observe the animals, keep them clean, vaccinated and apart from infected ones. Separate those suspected of having the disease or those already afflicted.

Source: PCHRD (DOST) July-Sept 1995

Sugar Cane Bagasse -- Animal Feed

In sugar mills, a product called "filter cake" or "mud press" is produced from the bagasse residue (after extracting the juice from the canes). This is like a brown cake mass when wet and bagasse when dried.

This dried residue contains 5 to 15% protein, calcium, phosphorus, 5-15% sugar, 10-30% fiber and 10-20% ash besides other substances.

Supplement 10% bagasse for the growing chickens (not more than this because it will retard its growth).

This bagasse can be given to the pigs, goats, carabao and cow.

Source: National Science Society DOST June-July 1988

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Cow-Carabao Feeds

1. Rice Straw

In feeding rice straw to carabao or cow as fodder, soak this first in water before feeding. This hastens the straw's digestion in the stomach of the animal as well as its raw protein content and acid that cleans this fiber.

Source: PCARRD Farmnews April 1987

2. Sugar Cane Tops

It has been tried in Negros that sugar cane tops can be feed for cows. But as this contains weak protein it is necessary to supplement it with copral meal, molasses, urea and sorghum.

Source: Agricultural and Industrial Life

3. Bananas

Researchers at the Twin Rivers Banana Plantation in Davao, as early as 1979, saw that cows fed with bananas grew faster.

Two groups of cows were studied, both of which were given daily feed amounting to 7.43 kilos. One group was given ordinary fodder and the other fed with rejects from bananas for export, with 2.8 kilos of various other feeds like 60% copra meal, 20% rice bran, 20% molasses, 1/4% (.25%) lime and salt.

After four months, cows fed with bananas weighed much more than those fed with grass.

Source: Agricultural and Industrial Life

4. Pig Manure

Pig manure contains 21.6% raw protein, 3.22% raw fat and 2.2% ash or minerals.1) Mix equal amount of fresh manure and corn.2) This ration is good to give to the cow while fattening it before slaughter.

At first, the cows will reject this because of the odor, but because they have nothing else to eat they will learn to like it.

Source: Phil. Farmnews' Journal Aug 1980

5. Chicken Manure

According to research at the University of Clemason, U.S.A., the fresh manure of a laying chicken in a pen can be substitute for the needed protein of the cow. In their study, they gave four cows the following in 112 days:

- 48% chicken manure - 12% ground peanut shell - 40% ground corn

Two of the cows were further given in 112 days more: 40% chicken manure (penned or caged) 1% rice straw 59% ground corn

The cows gained weight a kilo a day.

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Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal July-Aug 1983

Effect of Light on a Nursing Cow

Researchers at the Michigan State University in East Lansing observed as early as 1981, that providing light even at night to a nursing mother cow increases her milking capacity.

According to the researchers, light from the pasteurland during the day is not adequate for a nursing mother cow. To make her milk abundant, provide her with light from a fluorescent lamp all night.

The researchers saw that if a nursing cow gets 16 hours' light, her milk increases by 6%-7% or more or less 1.5 kilo milk, compared to the pasteurizing cow that gets light for only 9-12 hours daily.

Cows provided with extra light ate 6% more than those not lighted -- this is perhaps the reason for their having more milk. And milk from extra light contained prolactin about 1.5 to 1.8 times more than those cows that had only 9-12 hours of natural light. Prolactin is a kind of hormone that increases milking for nursing mothers -- human or animal.

The researchers also saw that when the weather is cold, prolactin in nursing cows was decreased.

Source: Phil. Farmers' Journal

Lime -- Cure for Cows' Teats

Teats of nursing mother cows commonly get infection called mastitis.

One form of mastitis is swelling of the teats or get watery or ooze out blood with pus. Another kind is known only when the cow is subjected to medical test.

To cure: Dissolve lime in water (2%) and wash the teat of the cow. (This is also good for driving away flies).

Source: Greenfields Volume 8 & 11

Uses of Cow Dung

In a 300 square meter piece of land at the Alabang Dairy Farm, these are two biogas (methane) digesters, pond for growing chlorella plants, tilapia pond, and a garden for raising vegetables -- pechay, lettuce, corn, eggplants, and tomatoes.

Biogas

For three months, researchers made use of cow dung and cleansing water from 50 cows, that provided 21.5 cubic meters of biogas -- enough to run a gas-refrigerator and a 5-burner stove. Water coming from the digester is directed to the tilapia and chlorella pond.

Chlorella

Chlorella raised in a 52 sq.m. pond yielded 5.5 kilos of dried chlorella in summer and 2.5 kilos during rainy weather. This is fed to the cows.

The cows were given each, 2 parts dried chlorella and commercial feed, and 6 parts rice straw. The animals gained more or less an increase of 350 gms everyday.

Residue

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The manure residue was used in three ways:

1) 50% rice straw , 40% ipil-ipil, 9% commercial feeds, 1% honey

2) Like the first but half of it was replaced by dried chlorella.3) Like the first but half was replaced by dried manure residue (sludge).

Result: Cows fed with chlorella weighed highest: 730 gm daily more or less, more than 7% over those given commercial feed.

Those given sludge gained weight 600 gms daily more or less.

Tilapia Pond

Water emanating from the digester was directed to the tilapia pond. After 4 months, the tilapia each grew at 27 cm long and weighed 350 gms.

Fertilizer for the Vegetable Plants

Vegetation watered with liquid from the digester yielded a harvest as much as when they were fertilized with commercial fertilizer (Urea 2 bags of 46-00-NPK per hectare).

Feed for Farm Animals During Calamity

At times when fodder grass is not available due to calamity, for instance, with the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo, or long time floods, the animals may be given maintenance ration to keep them alive until the situation becomes normal again.

The maintenance ration consists of plant wastes like straw, corn stalks, cane tops, camote leaves and other similar farm wastes to replace fresh grass.

According to experts, the following comprise the maintenance ration:

1. Rice Straw -- regardless of quantity, that will be sprayed with molasses:For 100 kilos straw: add 10 kilos molasses and 1 kilo urea, (dissolve in

20liter water) and spray on the straw

2. Leaves of legumes, ipil-ipil, kakawate - as much as they like (10-15 kilos).3. Give each animal straw with 300 gms urea-molasses-mineral block (UMMB)

daily, as much as they like. If not available, give them salt.4. Give 8-10 kilos farm wastes and ½ to 1 kilo brewer's spent grains (these are

available at San Miguel Corp. Plants, PCRDC at UP Los Baños, CLSU in Magalang, Pampanga).

5. Always provide the animals with drinking water.

Source: Gabay sa Pagpapakain ng Hayop na Sinalanta ng Bulkang Pinatubo PCARRD, DOST July 1991

Care of Farm Animals

Animals not properly cared for are close to getting sick. This situation weakens their natural resistance against diseases. Once weakened, it gives way to microbes that may grow and spread, leading to disease. The following lowers the animals' resistance to disease:

1. dirty surroundings2. unavailability of food and water now and then

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3. crowded coop or pen4. extreme heat or cold5. poor quality of food6. frequent transfer7. presence of worms, lice, and other pests

Serious animal infection spreads through:

1. Food contaminated with disease or microbes.2. Contaminated water.3. Contact with other animals that may be sick.4. Use of things used by sick animals.5. Contact with animals that may be carriers of disease (cat, dog, rats, birds, etc.)6. Contact with or insect bites that bring disease such as flies, mosquitoes and fleas.

The unborn animal may be easily infected through the blood of the mother or milk by the sick nursing mother.

Preventive Measures:

To avoid animal infection:

1. Provide a good pen or shelter for the animals. Don't leave them exposed to sun and rain.

2. Remove sharp edges or nails that may hurt or wound the animals. Such wounds may provide the entry of infection to the bodies.

3. Do not put together different animals in one cage. This could be the start of fighting and accidents.

4. Do not allow the animals to be crowded. They need ample space within which to move about and free circulation of air.

5. Separate the young or weak animals from the majority. Give them special care. Give vitamins and other nourishing foods to hasten their recovery.

6. Keep the cage clean. Provide canals at the sides where their wastes can always be removed. Do not allow their wastes to stay as this is nest for disease.

7. Always provide clean food and water daily. As much as possible ensure that the water is not infected -- investigate the source.

8. Separate the healthy animals from the healthy ones to avoid contamination.9. Cook or boil left over food before feeding them to the animals. Give them abundant

and nourishing foods. Healthy animals overcome diseases more easily than do undernourished ones.

10. Burn or bury properly dead animals. Don't attempt to open up the carcass; this gives way to the spread of infection.

11. Always look into the condition of the animals. Consult a veterinarian for any symptoms of disease. Disease is easier to cure when it is just beginning.

There are sicknesses or diseases that can be prevented through vaccination, enema and giving of medicines proper to the disease.

Certain diseases that are highly infectious but can be controlled by vaccination are the Foot-and-Mouth disease, hemorrhagic septicem, hog cholera and new castle disease.

Consult a veterinarian regarding the kind, time and frequency of vaccination, and dose for every administration of vaccines.

Source: Livestock Research Division, PCARRD Los Baños, Laguna

Medicinal Plants for Animals

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The following have been tried and found helpful for the following animal ailments such as:

Intestinal Worms

lagundi - crush ½ to 1 kilo leaves- mix with 2 to 3 spoons of sugar- give the mixture to the animal

ipil-ipil - pulverize half a glass of dried seeds- mix with about ½ or 3/4 glass of water- give to the infected animal but not on a pregnant animal.

Cadris - wash and crush about ½ to 1 kilo leaves } give to the animal

Amargoso leaves - crush ½ to 1 kilo leaves - give the juice 1 to 3 times.

Bunga - pulverize 8-10 young bunga, put in a glass of water and give to theanimal.

External Parasites (Lice)

1. Kakawate - wash and crush the fresh leaves- apply on the affected part once or twice a day for one week.

2. Acapulco - do as in kakawate, but apply 2 times a day for 2 weeks.

Diarrhea

Loose bowel movement in animals may be due to microbes, worms, contaminated food or a combination of these. The signs are fever, watery discharge, and loss of appetite.

Because of loss of water, salt and nourishment in the body, it is necessary to give first aid to the animal. A good cure is young coconut juice with brown sugar and salt.

To arrest the discharge, give concoction of cogon roots, guava or caimito leaves.

1. Caimito -- boil ½ kilo leaves in 3 glasses of water until the amount is reduced to a glass. Cool and give to the animal two hours a day for 2 days.

2. Banana -- feed the animal with fresh leaves 2 times a day for four days or until the animal has recovered.

Wounds

1. Carrot -- clean the carrot, scrape, and mix with dried tobacco leaves. Apply on the wound once a day or every other day.

2. Eggplant -- pound eggplant leaves, apply on the wound once or twice daily for one week.

Source: PCARRD Monitor Feb 1990

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FISHES(back to main page)

GOOD BREEDING FOR FISH

To breed fish, the following should be considered, as tried by experts:

1. The depth level of the pond must be lower than that of the sea or river to allow water to enter the pond evel at low tide.

2. The bottom of the breeding pond must consist of lime or compost, about 16%.

3. The pH must be between 7-8. ( Consult the Bureau of Soils)

4. The botom earth must be clayey so as to retain water.

5. There must be two outlets to facilitate the entrance and outgoing of water.

6. One part of the bottom must be a little higher than the other side to make harvest of fish easy.

7. Dig canals around 15 cm. deep around the pond for water to flow in. This will provide outlet for dirt and other things that may fall into the dike.

8. The dike should be strong against the pressure of water from the crabs and eels that may destroy and enlarge its holes, and high enough to protect from overflow during strong rain.

Philippine Farmers’ Journal, March 1981

LIME FOR FISH PONDS

In Europe and Asia, fish raisers have learned that the application of lime on fish ponds help a lot in the growth and reproduction of the fish therein, especially in water levels that have low calcium content.

Like the application of fertilizer, lime is applied on the ponds. The most commonly available are those used on land—ground lime, and either calcite (CaCO3) or dolomite (CaMg (CO3)2).

As early as 1975, this has been studied in the Auburn University of Alabama (USA) on five fishponds that were treated with lime and five others not treated with lime but fertilized with ammonium nitrate and trisuperphosphate every two weeks.

It was seen that plants growing in the ponds with lime flourished, and the fish increased by 25%.

This was also tried in Malaysia as early as 1962 where the tilapia they raised in ponds increaased by 10% with the application of lime.

Greenfields, August 1984

ACIDIC FISHPOND

After a strong rain, it is common to see dead fish floating on a fish pond. This is because of poisoning from the acid coming from the pond’s bottom. This is common among soils that contains much sulfur or sulfide

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compound. According to researchers, when this kind of soil is exposed to the air in summer, its sulfur content mixes with the oxygen in the air and becomes poisonous sulfuric acid( that is lethal even to humans).

When it rains, the water becomes poison for the fish because acid in the water activated some substances like iron and aluminum, which mingles woth the water.

In such cases, wtaer in the fish pond should first be analyzed at the Bureau of Soils. The remedy for this is to apply lime and animal manure to counteract the existing acid.

Agricultural and Industrial Life

RAISE HITO ( Catfish)

Hito can be raised in a small pond. There are two common varieties of catfish in the Philippines—one that is our own native hito that thrives in rice fields and rivers, sometimes in muddy places; and the other one brought over from Thailand or Taiwan. Both kinds can be raised and grown commercially.

Within four months, hito can grow as big as a size weighing 300-400 grams or three in a kilo. In Taiwan, they grow hito as big as two kilos each.

Hito from Taiwan origin is dark gray with white belly.

Cage

1. For commerical purposes, one hectare of fish pond can rear as many as 100,000 small hito or fingerlings. In other countries like Thailand, they grow as many as 300,000 to 400,000 fingerlings in one hectare of fosh pond.

2. The sides of the fishpond should be concrete so as to withstand flood or heavy rains. The smaller the grow-out ponds, the easier to manager them. (1 ½ hectare)

3. It is not necessary to provide an aerator even if the fish population is big because the hito has an auxiliary respiratory organ and can naturally breathe fresh air; therefore it is not stressed by low dissolved oxygen levels.

4. The pond’s water depth must be about one and half meters ( ½ m) throughout the culture period. fresh water may be drawn from a nearby river. Change of water is done when it becomes murky.

Feed

1. Hito needs protein, so they like flesh meat. They can also thrive on any food growing in the pond bottom, or they can eat one another, or escape from the pond. So, they must be provided with enough protein foods—carcass, trash fish, commerical fish feed.

Some hito growers get their carcass feed from chicken or poultry internal organs, or trash fish from fishermen.

It takes four months to grow hito that is about 2 kilograms, or three-to-four-pieces per kilo.

Greenfields, August 1991

RAISE FROGS

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The bulldog is considered a specialty in some countries because this is not commonly served and is unknown to many. Here in the Philippines, the frogs that are edible are the (ricefields) frogs that can be raised.

When the frog is mature, this grows as long as 14 inches when streched, and can weigh as much as half a kilo or more. It can thrive on land or in water.

The male frog has ears larger than its eyes, the females have the eyes as big as the ears. The females are bigger, but the males have their forelegs longer ans stronger. The throat of the mating males is yellow and enlarged (inflamed) while that of the female is white.

The eyes of the frog are protruding and large and yellow; the tongue is long and sticky. They have no neck with which to turn the head around, so their protruding eyes are used to look upward, downward and around. Behind their eyes are large ears or hearing organ (tympanium) that are sensitive to sound and tremor in their environment.

In their natural habitat, frogs live in streams , ponds, water canals, rice folds and almost everywhere that there is water and vegatation where insects thrive. They feed on soft plants growing in the water like algae, and on fishes (even dead), insects, liver, cooked flour products, boiled potatoes, fresh meat and chicken and viscerals, and meat even not fresh. The mature ones also live on insects, crabs, water insects, snails, shrimps, spider, crickets, grasshoppers,fish, snakes,termites,worms,wrigglers, earthworms, young turtles and birds. They like live foods ot those that are alive and moving.

EGG LAYING

Frogs lay eggs from April to September. The eggs are laid on a thin sheet on a leaf top above the water. After the female lays eggs, the male frog fertilizes them from outside, and places them afterwards in an egg mass in the water. After 5-10 days, the eggs are hatched. From 10,000-20,000 eggs normally laid, only about 30%or less are hatched, live up to the tadpole stage, depending on the temperature of the water. The small frogs will grow and live on the plants in the water. The shape is like a narrow fish, with gills for breathing, without legs and with a tail for swimming.

The small ones will grow, a few weeks to a few months, and will become a full fledged frog. They will lose their gills but will develop lungs; discard the tail but four feet will grow; the intestines will be shorter and the mouth will be that of a frog’s. At this time, the growing frog will live longer on land than in the water.

DISEASES AND PESTS OF FROGS

Frogs are susceptible to a bacterial disease called “red legs” due to ovrcrowding and contamination caused by pollution and lack of oxygen in the pond. Many of the young ones fall pretty to the disease.

SETTING UP AND CARE OF A FROG FARM

A frog may be a few meters square in one’s backyard or a hectare size, depending on one’s place and capability for investment and care. In constructing a pond, the following should be considered:

1. The place must be such that it logs water, as in clay; if this is not so, cement the sides of the pond and provide water outlet and inlet.

2. The place must be near a body of water like a stream or irrigatio.

3. The rice field is the best for frog raising.

4. Avoid places that get flooded.

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5. The place must be fenced to avoid the escaping of frogs, and so that enemies like cats, snakes, lizards of big frogs are kept off.

6. Plant shady trees like bananas or vines at the place and allow grass to grow on vacant places. Bamboos can also be used to shade.

7. Provide strong light to attract insects.

8. Plant flowering plants around to attract insects.

CARE OF SMALL AND GROWING FROGS

The frog nursery should have cemented sides around at 4X1 meters and about half a meter deep. This can accommodate about 5,000 small frogs.

1. The surface of the cemented side should be coarse to alllow the growth of moss and algae that the small frogs eat. Give also cooked flour to supplement their feed.

2. Put above some shade—climbing plants on bamboo or banana leaves.

3. Keep the water clean, so there must be an outlet for the soiled water and inlet for fresh new water.

4. The mass of eggs on the sticky surface should be transferred to the nursery.

The eggs are placed on a hanging fine nylon net so that eggs that will not hatch will not spill over. These are likely jelly that pollute the water where it will drop into.

5. The eggs will hatch in 4-10 days, depending on the water temperature. These are like wrigglers if alive, and will leave the net.

TRANSFER CAGE

The small frogs that are wrigglers will be transferred to another cage when the legs are beginning to grow and the tail begins to disappear. A cage 2x6x.5 m deep can accommodate about 4,000 small ones.

1. Feed the small frogs with food that is live—small worms, earthworms, and termites which they like—at about 4:00 p.m. when they are most active.

2. At this time, because they have no scales, their skin can dry up so they must always be near a body of water.

3. The side of the cage around must be slanting where the frogs get trained in suing their legs, which is important as they grow, to develop leg muscles (for meat production).

4. Place a hanging nylon tray about ½ “ X 2” above the suface to serve as feeding space and rest for the young forgs.

5. Place a 10-wat flourescent lamp at the sides to attract insects at night.

6. When these have grown to 2.5-3” in size, they can be transferred to the rearuing ponds. The pond must be cemented and I about half a meter deep.

REARING PONDS

1. The ponds must have ample shore. Provide shades by planting banana trees and grasses around.

2. Plant flowering plants to attract insects and make water insects and guppies thrive in the pond for the frogs to feed on.

3. Earthworm, termites and maggots serve as supplementary food.

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4. The frog population in the pond should be one frog for every 2.5 or 3 sq. ft.

5. Place bamboo slats in corner that will serve as shade and rest for the frogs. Cover this with banana leaves.

These shed are bamboo pcs 2m x 3m elevated about 5 cm from the ground and extended about one-half meter over the pond’s water.

6. Place the lights here.

7. Beneath this are nylon trays 1 X 2m supported by 1.5”X 2” wood pieces around.

BREEDING

The breeding pond is lilke the rearing pond although smaller. Place here the healthiest and biggest frogs for breeding.

The number of males is almost equal to that of females because the males sometines mate only once to a single female.

Before the time comes for egglaying, put frogs together so they can be adjusted to their new environment and thus make egg laying good.

The population is about 2 frogs for every square meter in the whole cage.Bato Balani Dec 1981

TILAPIA SEX REVERSAL

Male tilapia fish grow faster and much bigger that the females. The males normally weigh from 600-800 gms in four months and can even grow bigger, but the females reach only as much as 150 gms within the same period.

Because the female tilapia reproduces fast, the over population in the pond retards their growth and causes the death of many.

If the males and females would be put together, it is not easy for harvest time because their growth or sizes would be varied.

Materials:

1. Seven (7) inverted (mosquito) nets.

2. Formula SRT-95 ( hormone).

Method:

1. Place in the inverted nets ( in the pond) the newly hatched fingerlings from the mouth of the mother tilapia.

2. Feed them with the formula.

3. Do this in 21 days. A kilo of hormone can feed 6,000 fingerlings.

The percentage of reversal when fed with this hormone in 90-99%. When 10 days are past, the fish will not change sex even when they are fed with the hormones.

This was discovered by Dr. Rafael Guerrero of the Central Luzon State University in 1977, based on his doctoral thesis at the Auburn University. He did not keep the information selfishly but shared it with the people that now benefit from it. For this, he was awarded to TOYM award and the S & T IBM award in 1987.

PCARRD Farmnews Vol XIII, Sept 1987

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EARTH FLAVOR IN TILAPIA

From March to August, it is common to find freshwater tilapia to have a taste like soil or earth. It was researched on and found out that at UP Los Baños as well as SEAFDEC, Iloilo, that this is caused by a kind of water plant or seaweed that the tilapia eat. This plant flourishes at the period.

This earthy taste can be removed if the fish is soaked in pure lambanog ( coconut or palm wine) one hour before cooking.

At SEAFDEC, the dish are raised first in a tank where they are deprived of food for six hours, to cleanse their intestines. Then these are transferred to another tank for 3 days, where the water is changed several times until the earthy taste is gone. This lasts from one to two weeks.

BLACK: FAVORITE COLOR OF FISH

According to researchers at the Bureau of Fisheries, the color of the fish net has something to do with the amount of fish catch. This was studied in 100 fishers in deep and shallow fishing.

The nets used were white black, gray, granate and green. Result: the most number of catch was black, followed by greens, and then gray, granate and white in that order.

PCARRD Farmnews March 15, 1983

FATTEN MUD CRABS

The crab, especially the female pregnant with red- orange egg berries, is a specialty in all levels of society. In its natural habitat, crabs thrive best where sea and river waers meet.

Crabs are caught at night because they are hiding deep in the mud at the bottom of the water. They crawl out their burrows at night to hunt for food. They can prey only on snails, mussles and worms and other crab species because they are slow and clumsy—they can’t catch fast swimming fish. They usually hunt as far as 500 meters from their burrows for food, but still get very little to eat. Thus, they have to be fattened for the market. An unfatten carb weighs about 175 grams.

Crabs can’t be cultured commercially because the female needs deep sea conditions to hatch its eggs. The young ones and adults need to be reared in brackish water with a muddy bottom in order to grow and mate. A female takes six(6) months to mature. Male crabs are thin and light because they wait for the female crab to start molting. Only then can male mate . The female adult molt 12 times a year. Mating, spawning and egg fertilization take place in brackish water. The female lays 2-8 million eggs in one spawning season, but can carry only one-third (1/3) of the eggs in her body. The female crab lays eggs seven (7) times a year.

During the spawning season, crab hunters can catch many berried (pregnant) female crabs with the delicious red-orange eggs on their hairy pleopods (or outer belly). They go to the deep sea water to hatch their eggs.

Crabs hatch their eggs in sea water 300 meters deep to provide the right salinity and temperature for the larvae (called zoeae). The larvae undergoes five (5) molting stages in the sea before moving to a brackish water are where they become juvenile crabs.

Under normal conditions, about, 75%-95% of the crab get hatched. Thus, its population stays high in spite of toher sea animals preying on the yougn crabs.

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CAGE OF FATTENING CRABS

1. The cage is made of bamboo 27”X54”X9, divided into 18 cubicles, each capable of holding a crab about 175-200 gms.

2. Four bamboo poles are staked at the bottom of the water 1-2 meters deep near the shore, where the cage is tied to.

3. A long rope is connected to the cage to enable the fishermen to pull the cage ashore to inspect and feed the crabs.

4. Feeding is once in the morning and once in the late afternoon. The feed consists of the meat of brown mussles, dropped into a hole a the top of each cubicle.

Each crab receives feed about 5% of its body weighht. Thus, a carb weighing about 175 gms. gets 9 grams aily feed given half of it in the morning and the other half in the afternoon.

5. Crabs are fattened for 10-15 days. In some provinces, crabs can be fed feedstuffs other than mussls, (for example, shrimps, grilled coconut meat as bait).

In Panay, fihermen fatten crabs in small ponds that they dig in their backyards or on the seashore. The ponds are fenced with bamboo slats to keep the female crabs from climbing out at night.

Greenfields, July 1991

PROLONG PRAWN SHELF-LIFE

1. For awhole day, expose to the sun’s heat wood shavings of white lauan.

2. Place this in plastic bags and refrigerate at 15°C.

3. Place the prawns in a basin of sea water. Little by little, add rice until the temperature is 18°C.

4. Remove the prawns fromo the water and place them orderly in a box( with sides lined with sytyrofoam).

5. Place at 300 gms ground ice in a plastic bag, seal and put atop the shaving.

6. Close the box with masking tape.

7. On the next day, wash the prawns in iced seawater.

A Japanese expert on prawns at the SEAFDEC in Iloilo tired this to prolong the shelf life of the prawns even when this is packed.

When the boxes were opened the next day, 93% of the prawns were still alive. When put in water, they immediately swam.

The Phil Farmers’ Journal, March 1980

BRIGHTLY COLORED PRAWNS

In Japan, the color of the cooked prawn determines the price. The Japanese are willing to pay even 30% more of the price for naturally colored wild prawns. Raised prawns that are pale blue when cooked turns into pale yellow, wild prawns are brioght red when cooked.

A marine science professor from Bangkok Chulalongkorn University, Piamsak Manasueta, made a research on what brings about the red color in raised ;prawns

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when cooked, that was not costly. He learned that one substance, astaxanthin, gives the color, just as it gives the carrot its color.

There are now two sources as astaxathin- Hoffman La Roche asn Spirulina, a seaweed that has this coloring substance. Piamsak mixed 5 grams of La Roche (which cost onlty 1c per gram), and astaxanthin in 100 kilos of prawn feed. He saw that this intensified the color by 300% in only one month. The prawns fed by astaxanthin became darker in color than those feed with regular feeds. Those fed with spirulin also became darker but the change was not so noticeable.

Asia Technology, April 1990

SHARKS AND THEIR USES

Sharks are prevalent in Philippine seas have a depth of 600-3,00o feet, and that have muddy dephts. Rthese are often caught in east and south Luzon, Visayas and southern Mindanao.

Sharks have he following uses:

1. Meat -- white like milk and without fish bones -- made into ham, sausages, smoked, “steak”, “fillet” and fish balls -- dried, canned or smoked -- made into hog and chicken feedDried sharks meat can last from 11-12 days, -- smoked meat -- 2 days

-- smoked sausaged -- 2-3 days -- shark tocino -- 8 days 2. Bones- made into glue3. bones and internal organ --feed for animals fertilizer4. Teeth -- decorative purposes5. Fins—soup(Nido)6. Skin – all uses of ordinary skins (leather) --linoleum ( for floor)

6. Liver – (rich in oil and Vitamin A) -- used in pomade manufacture, facial cream, hair oil, perfume -- oil for watched and sensitive machines

& T Media Segvice A & 1 Div Feb 12,1991

OTHER USES OF MARINE PRODUCTS

1. SEA CUCUMBER (Treprang or panit)

The sea cucumber is a small marine animal popular among the Chinese. When dried, this is tough abd needs hours of boiling.

About 30 species of sea cucumber in the San Fernando, La Union and Calatogan waters, Batangas were studies by researchers at the UP. Other countries are likewise making studied on the treprang as medicine for different diseases such as cancer and tumir, mold caused by disease, rheumatism and irregular heartbeat, throat ailments among others.

S&T Media Service Sept. 13, 1990

2. Squid Bones

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It was learned by researchers at the Mountain State Agricultural College in Benguet, Mt. Province, that the squid bone is good for dogs’ wound. Powdered squid bone, when applied on puppies’ wounds, bring about rapid healing.

This is because of its lime, calcium and salth contents. The three elements aid in the wounds’ quick healing.

Farming Today, April 1983

PLANTS FOR FISH PREDATORS

To do away with undesirable fishes such aas those that prey on or attack the fish that are being raised, these are certain plants that are toxic like commercial toxicants but which are not harmful to human such as:

1. Tubli -- a vine.Pulverize about five (5) kilos of its roots and mix with the water.

2. Makasla -- a bush with fruits or croton seed

-- Five kilos of pulverized seed is spreade over a hectare of fish about 10 cm deep if freshwater.

-- Ten kilos are necessary if in seawater.

Put this in the pond,when the sun is hot (noon time). After 24 hours, the treated pond may be filled again with the raised fish after the usual water level is restored.

Greenfields Sept 1989

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