Speak Easy - WWD

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WWD WEDNESDAY Sportswear See Tweaking, Page 11 Maximizing the Assets: Saks Flagship Charts Latest Set of Upgrades By David Moin I t’s not the grandiose master plan once envisioned, but the Saks Fifth Avenue flagship has a fresh round of renovations in store and a new manager to orchestrate the changes. The strategy, while cautious and proceeding piecemeal, includes a doubling in size and relocation of the shoe department, a new bridal salon and the remodeling of the third level that houses the evening and fur salons and the Fifth Avenue Club for personal shopping and designer collections such as Akris, Chado Ralph Rucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Marc L&T’S NEW TOP EXEC/2 SLIMANE-DIOR TENSION GROWS/2 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 28, 2007 • $2.00 PHOTO BY PASHA ANTONOV; MODEL: OLGA/SUPREME; HAIR BY CHLOE AND MAKEUP BY JUSTIN ST.CLAIR, BOTH AT AARTIST LOFT; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE Speak Easy Say adieu to embellished, complicated clothes this fall, and make way for relaxed, lightweight pieces with sporty references. Here, photographed at Fast Ashley’s Studio, Dallin Chase’s rayon and Lycra spandex dress and cotton shirt. Wolford tights; Michel Perry shoes.

Transcript of Speak Easy - WWD

WWDWEDNESDAYSportswear

See Tweaking, Page 11

Maximizing the Assets: Saks Flagship Charts Latest Set of UpgradesBy David Moin

It’s not the grandiose master plan once envisioned, but the Saks Fifth

Avenue flagship has a fresh round of renovations in store and a new manager to orchestrate the changes.

The strategy, while cautious and proceeding piecemeal, includes a doubling in size and relocation of the shoe department, a new bridal salon and the remodeling of the third level that houses the evening and fur salons and the Fifth Avenue Club for personal shopping and designer collections such as Akris, Chado Ralph Rucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Marc

L&T’S NEW TOP EXEC/2 SLIMANE-DIOR TENSION GROWS/2Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 28, 2007 • $2.00

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Speak EasySay adieu to embellished, complicated clothes this

fall, and make way for relaxed, lightweight pieces with

sporty references. Here, photographed at Fast Ashley’s

Studio, Dallin Chase’s rayon and Lycra spandex dress

and cotton shirt. Wolford tights; Michel Perry shoes.

WWD.COM2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

WWDWEDNESDAYSportswear

FASHIONAfter seasons of frippery and frills, designers are going back to the basics, offering a range of solid separates with layering potential.

GENERALThe Saks Fifth Avenue fl agship has a fresh round of renovations in store and a new manager to orchestrate changes.

Mark Weikel, president and chief operating offi cer of Victoria’s Secret, will join Lord & Taylor on April 9 as chief operating offi cer.

Speculation is building that Christian Dior will part ways with its men’s wear star Hedi Slimane.

Diane von Furstenberg Studio has fi led a copyright infringement lawsuit against Forever 21 for allegedly infringing on two of its designs.

MAINSTREAM: Designer Sara Campbell specializes in cheery frocks, so it’s a good thing she hasn’t become cynical given her fi rm’s rocky ride.

Democrats laid out conditions the White House must meet to gain sup-port of pending trade deals and renewal of trade promotion authority.

The Consumer Confi dence Index fell to its lowest level since November, amid concerns over higher gas prices and a weakening labor market.

WEST: Retailers will gussy up their customers this fall, based on orders for sophisticated looks and luxe fabrics at the Los Angeles market.

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● FIGHTING WORKPLACE CANCER: Eleven global labor unions, including the International Textile, Garment & Leather Workers Federation, have launched a “Zero Cancer” campaign to tackle the top occupational killer worldwide. Occupational cancer is estimated to cause 635,000 deaths a year, according to the International Labor Organization. Occupational cancer “is not taken seriously by regulators and employers,” said Marcello Malentacchi, general secretary of the International Metalworkers Federation, which has published a guide to workplace cancer prevention. The guide notes that multiple myeloma has been linked to solvents and dye products, nasal and nasopharynx can-cer has been connected to working with natural fi bers and ioniz-ing radiation has been associated with footwear manufacturing. It credits unions with helping to identify a number of workplace cancers, such as bladder cancer in dye workers.

● CELEBRITY DRUG USE: The top U.N. drug enforcement of-fi cial, Antonio Maria Costa, has urged the media to be more criti-cal in reporting on the “shooting, snorting and sniffi ng habits” of certain pop stars and models. Costa, who heads the Vienna-based U.N. offi ce on drugs and crime, said, “Less focus on coke-snort-ing celebrities would help governments shift public attitudes and help develop greater social awareness of the dangers of drugs.” He told a session of the Commission on Narcotic Drugs — the U.N.’s central policy-making body on drug control — that he wel-comed the fact that U.N. member states had abandoned the “woe-fully wrong notion that the drug problem would be solved by dis-ciplining a few thugs in drug-producing countries while ignoring the responsibility of the rich, consuming countries.” Costa said it was tragic that in many nations it had taken either a crime wave or an HIV/AIDS epidemic to trigger stronger drug prevention.

In Brief

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By David Moin

NEW YORK — Mark Weikel will join Lord & Taylor on April 9 as chief operating officer, serving as second-in-command and re-porting to Jane Elfers, president and chief executive officer.

Weikel is currently president and chief operating offi cer of Vic-toria’s Secret Stores, which four years ago recruited him away from May Department Stores in a hard-fought battle over non-compete issues.

At Lord & Taylor, Weikel will be responsible for fi nance, op-erations, merchandise planning, stores, information technology and human resources. He will be critical in supporting Lord & Taylor’s agenda under its new owner, NRDC Equity Partners, particularly the capital improve-ments expected at key stores, technology implementations for better merchandise planning and allocation, and customer cli-enteling. In an interview, Elfers said the 47-unit Lord & Taylor is intent on developing a stronger selling culture.

Lord & Taylor’s chief operat-ing slot had been vacant since October 2005, when Richard Clausing left the company. Since then, Elfers has been doubling as ceo and chief operating offi cer. Once Weikel is on board, Elfers will be able to devote more time wearing her merchant’s hat and working on the company’s brand-

ing campaign for fall and mer-chandise upgrades, which have been ongoing for four years.

“We are rolling out a lot of ini-tiatives here. Mark will be very important to us,” said Elfers. “I have known Mark for many years. His extensive experience in all facets of operations and his strong leadership abilities will be a tremendous asset as we partner to move Lord & Taylor forward.”

She also noted that since Lord & Taylor became a standalone retail operation after being ac-quired by NRDC for $1.1 billion from Federated Department Stores in 2006, it needed some additional hands. Federated in-herited Lord & Taylor through its purchase of May in 2005.

While a win for Lord & Taylor, Weikel’s move is a blow to Victoria’s Secret, which just two months ago elevated him to presi-dent and chief operating offi cer of Victoria’s Secret Stores. Before,

he held only the latter post. Jerry Stritzke, chief operating

offi cer of the Victoria’s Secret group, which includes the stores, catalogue and Internet, will as-sume Weikel’s responsibilities.

In 2003, Limited Brands, par-ent of Victoria’s Secret, engaged in a legal battle over Weikel with the former May. The department store retailer attempted to pre-vent Weikel, former chairman of its Foley’s division, from joining Victoria’s Secret Stores on the grounds he was violating a non-compete clause in his contract. But Limited sued May in retalia-tion and won the case. The court ruled Victoria’s Secret and May were not competitors and that Weikel didn’t breach his contract.

Now with his sudden depar-ture, the lingerie chain must again reorganize its ranks. Just two months ago, the retailer un-derwent a restructuring due to the departure of Grace Nichols, who was president and ceo, re-sulting in Weikel stepping up as part of a co-leadership structure, with Lori Greeley also stepping up as ceo.

Lord & Taylor has been bring-ing a lot of talent in recently, in-cluding advertising guru David Lipman and BrandBuzz, the re-search and branding arm of Young & Rubicam, to create a fall cam-paign. Randall Ridless will col-laborate with the Mancini Duffy architectural and design fi rm to revamp Lord & Taylor units.

L&T Appoints Chief Operating Offi cer

Dior, Slimane Still at Contract ImpasseBy Miles Socha

PARIS — Speculation is build-ing here that Christian Dior will part ways with its men’s wear star Hedi Slimane.

The French fashion house and the designer have been in pro-tracted talks to renew Slimane’s Dior Homme contract — and to establish a signature fashion house — with majority ownership of the Slimane brand said to be among the most contentious claus-es. Slimane is reluctant to give up control of his name and has set a high price tag on the value of his trademark, sources said.

Christian Dior is said to be keen to move on, “fed up” with Slimane’s demands, which have made talks drag on for almost a year and dented morale among the rank and fi le, according to one source.

It could not immediately be learned if a succession plan at Dior Homme is in place should Slimane be shown the door. Last year, Dior Homme was on the verge of signing Belgian designer Kris Van Assche, but talks abrupt-ly ended, and exclusive negotia-

tions resumed with Slimane.WWD fi rst reported a stale-

mate in contract negotiations on June 19, just weeks before the contract was to expire.

Slimane, 38, was traveling in America on Tuesday and could not be reached for comment, nor could Sidney Toledano, chief ex-ecutive of Christian Dior.

A split with Slimane would mark the end of a successful six-year collaboration that saw Dior Homme become one of the most infl uential men’s labels, making skinny tailoring, low-slung jeans and updated, rock ’n’ roll style the benchmark of cool. Slimane also applied his rigorous, modernist approach to fragrances, launch-ing the hit scent Dior Homme and concocting the brand’s fi rst men’s skin care range, Dior Homme Dermo System.

Even Bernard Arnault, chair-man of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is a devotee of Slimane’s narrow-lapeled suits and skinny ties, and was among glitterati crammed onto the benches of the Dior Homme show each season, an event attended by the likes of Mick Jagger, Karl Lagerfeld and a who’s-who of the art, music and fashion scenes.

Along the way, Slimane estab-lished himself as a photographer and artist, represented in Paris by the gallerist Almine Rech. He has published photo books about the music scene in Berlin and London, and held solo exhibi-tions here and in Zurich, recently branching out into sculpture and painting — albeit ones done by robots programmed to spray the track times of a favorite David Bowie album.

Slimane has described Dior Homme as a “project” and he pos-

ited the brand in a broader con-text, inviting contemporary artists to conceive dressing rooms, while dressing popular actors, pop stars and fi lmmakers. Slimane also gave his clothes a seductive, androgy-nous appeal and enjoyed a cult female following, having dressed the likes of Madonna, Charlotte Rampling, Linda Evangelista and Charlize Theron.

Launching women’s wear has long been an ambition, and Dior had intended to apply the Sli-mane name to a broad range of lifestyle products, not only fash-ion and accessories, given the de-signer’s design vision and wide-screen interests, sources said.

It could not be learned if Sli-mane has other potential back-ers lined up, but he is said to be eager to launch his signa-ture brand, while continuing to pursue art-related projects and photography.

Men’s wear represents about 10 percent of Dior’s business globally, but is as high as 20 per-cent in Japan.

An art history graduate from the Ecole du Louvre, Slimane burst onto the fashion scene in the late Nineties as the men’s wear creative director at Yves Saint Laurent. But when Gucci Group acquired YSL in 1999, Slimane balked at a hierarchy that had him reporting to then-group creative director Tom Ford. In spring 2000, he resigned from YSL to pursue talks about a Gucci-backed signature collec-tion. Prada Group also courted Slimane to take over Jil Sander, but he ultimately accepted an offer from Arnault to join in the rejuvenation of Dior, which was already kicking into high gear with the arrival of Galliano.

Jane Elfers has a new team memberat L&T.

Jane Elfers has a new team memberat L&T.

WWD.COM

ART RUSH: First François Pinault, then Bernard Arnault, and now the Maramottis, who own MaxMara, are joining the fashion crowd opening their own museums. Theirs, Collezione Maramotti, is scheduled to open this fall and will be dedicated to the family’s collection of contemporary art, ranging from Giorgio Morandi and Julian Schnabel to Giorgio De Chirico and Gerhard Richter. The museum will be located in a remodeled MaxMara manufacturing plant in Reggio Emilia, the Italian town where the company has its headquarters. The Maramottis commissioned a series of permanent works by top artists such as Sol LeWitt and Robert Morris in Reggio Emilia in 2004, and set up the MaxMara Art Prize for Women two years ago.

PRESSING AHEAD: Changes continue to unfurl in the public relations ranks at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. A reorganization of Louis Vuitton’s communications department will see Marie-Sabine Leclercq become director of communications for Vuitton’s cultural activities as well as be responsible for communications for the forthcoming Louis Vuitton Foundation, an arts museum being designed by the architect Frank Gehry and slated to open as early

as 2009. Antoine Arnault, son of LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault and a member of the luxury giant’s board, will become director of communications, in charge of advertising, books and the Louis Vuitton Cup, plus coordination of Vuitton’s Web site. Previously, Antoine Arnault was in charge of Vuitton’s boutiques in the French provinces. Also joining Vuitton’s press department, as director of product p.r., is Isabella Capece Galeota, previously the Paris-based head of European press for Fendi. The whole department will be overseen by Vuitton senior vice president Pietro Beccari, who was named director of marketing and communications.

WEENIE ROAST: Andy Spade called a few of his pals over to the Jack Spade boutique in Manhattan’s SoHo last Thursday night to celebrate a collection of vintage motorcycle helmets, almost all of which Spade purchased himself on eBay. “It’s the era I grew up in,” Spade said. “I used to ride dirt bikes in Arizona as a child, and I got nostalgic for that time. It’s a lot of fun to do something like this.” The helmets, which are on sale at the store for $125, come in bright purples, greens, yellows and patriotic red, white and blue. To add to the decorations, Jack Spade designer Matt Singer thought to feature pictures of weenie-bite contests that occur during motorcycle races. According to Singer, a girl sits on the back of a guy’s bike while he rides slowly and she has to take one giant bite out of a hot dog hanging from a string and spit it out. Whoever manages the biggest bite is the winner. “The whole thing is mildly degenerate,” Singer said. “But, hey, it’s not often weenie bites can come into play, so why not?”

DE BRANTES’ LEGIONS: Parisian public relations wiz Pia de Brantes whipped up a guest list to rival Elizabeth Hurley’s nuptials at the Hôtel de Seigneuley on Monday night — but this time it was for her own do. Christian Lacroix, Betty Catroux, Gilles Dufour, Fawaz Gruosi and Bruno Frisoni were part of the fashion throng who gathered to watch de Brantes receive the Legion of Honor. “We already began celebrating last night at the birthday dinner of Jean-Jacques [Picart],” said Lacroix. Meanwhile, Gruosi’s 23-year-old daughter, Violetta, said she’s gearing up to join her father’s jewelry company in September,

having just completed a gemology course in New York. “She got the best grade in her class,” chipped in a proud Gruosi.

KIMORA’S HOT NIGHT: Kimora Lee Simmons and a pack of multitasking beauties feted the Los Angeles debut of her contemporary line, KLS, at a candlelit dinner and after party on Friday at Social Hollywood. Fresh from an afternoon stint judging the Miss USA competition, Simmons threw on KLS’ white backless jersey tunic dress to greet Tyra Banks, Garcelle Beauvais, Sanaa Lathan, Devon Aoki, Amerie and Keisha Whitaker, the face of Maven Cosmetics and wife of Oscar winner Forest Whitaker. The mood lighting was fl attering, but things heated up when a breadbasket caught fi re under a fl oral and fake-bling centerpiece. Fred Segal Fun’s Jackie Brander came to the rescue by dumping a glass of water on the fl ames. Other retailer guests included Sharon Segal, Kitson’s Fraser Ross and Decades Two’s Christos Garkinos, who sold Beauvais her yellow one-shouldered Catherine Malandrino dress. Whitaker donned a silky sheath from Daryl K. “Forest put her in this dress,” Simmons said, though she didn’t fault her girlfriend for choosing another designer since Banks, Amerie and others wore KLS and Baby Phat. Simmons was also confi dent that KLS’ gold lamé gown, red velvet minidress and other looks will fi nd their way to the red carpet. “It’s not just party attire,” she said. “It’s very, very sexy. It’s grown-up.”

WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007 3

By Liza Casabona

NEW YORK — Diane von Furstenberg continues to take the pro-tection of her intellectual property very seriously.

Diane von Furstenberg Studio fi led a copyright infringe-ment lawsuit against Forever 21 Retail Inc. late last week in Manhattan federal court. According to legal documents ob-tained Tuesday, the company alleged Forever 21 has sold dress-es that infringe on its Cerisier and Aubrey designs.

“Without authorization or license from DVF, Forever 21 has produced and is marketing, advertising, distributing, offering for sale and selling dresses nearly identical to DVF’s Cerisier and Aubrey dresses that bear print designs identical to the DVF copyrights,” according to legal papers. The complaint goes on to allege that Forever 21’s merchandise copied the exact scale and color for each design and that the infringement was willful.

Forever 21 did not return requests for comment by press time.The Cerisier dress design, part of the company’s holiday col-

lection shown in October, consists of two print designs owned by DVF Studio called the “small dentelle” and “fl ower lace border” designs. The Aubrey dress was fi rst shown in the DVF spring 2006 fashion show in September 2005, according to court papers. The Aubrey dress has a print design on it called “mi-mosa,” which is also owned exclusively by DVF.

The complaint contains allegations of copyright infringe-ment, federal and state unfair competition, false designation of origin and unlawful deceptive acts. DVF asked the court to require Forever 21 to recall and remove from commercial dis-tribution or display any items that infringe on its copyrights as well as any promotional materials related to those goods. The complaint also asked for unspecifi ed fi nancial damages.

Von Furstenberg herself spoke recently with WWD about the implementation of a new program at DVF aimed at protecting the brand’s intellectual property. The fi rm established a three-year strategy to address counterfeiting and intellectual prop-erty issues. The company is working with lawyer Harley Lewin, of Greenberg Traurig, on the program. In recent months, the company has quietly fi led a handful of lawsuits in jurisdictions all over the country, including California, New York, Georgia, Florida and Virginia.

Forever 21 has found itself the defendant in copyright litiga-tion over fabric before. In January, the company was sued for allegedly infringing on a fabric copyright owned by M.M.P. Inc., which does business as Fabric & Fabric. The privately held company currently operates more than 300 Forever 21 stores and approximately 100 Gadzooks stores nationwide.

By Vicki M. Young

NEW YORK — Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. took a gamble a few years back when it acquired the Calvin Klein brand for $700 million, and it looks like the risk is paying off handsomely for a compa-ny that was known more for its men’s dress shirts.

Management said on a conference call Tues day with analysts that it was adding more Calvin Klein stores, and that its Izod women’s wear line was a hit with its retail partners. An equity fi rms said it expects the recent license with Timberland to grow into a $200 million business.

Emanuel Chirico, chief executive offi cer, said during the call that the “Calvin Klein business continues to deliver strong growth for us, exceed-ing our targeted growth levels of 10 percent, and for the last three years has averaged over 14 percent top-line growth, and we are really enjoying the ben-efi ts of that.”

For PVH, nearly every Cal-vin Klein business, whether it’s own or licensed, has been on fi re. In fragrance, PVH last year posted a double-digit revenue increase, driven by strength in Calvin Klein, ck, Eternity and the launch of the Euphoria fra-grance. Earlier this month, it launched ck IN2U, a new line for the twentysomething con-sumer. “We’ve had some posi-tive results throughout Europe. We are seeing very strong selling and sell-through performance in Europe. In the U.S., the product is just starting to hit the showcases and aisles and department stores,” Chirico said.

In underwear, the product has been equally strong in men’s and women’s, as well as on both international and domestic fronts. The women’s Perfect Fit launch has exceeded the company’s plans, the ceo said, noting that the company

also saw strong performance in the introduction last year of 365 for men. Chirico acknowledged Warnaco’s contribution to the product lines on the call. Warnaco holds the license to Calvin Klein intimates, and owns outright the jeans business, which also saw growth, particularly in China.

Less challenged now than a year ago, the Calvin Klein women’s sportswear business with Kellwood

has doubled its number of doors in the fourth quarter ended Feb. 4 compared with a year ago. Chirico said PVH is seeing im-proved sell-throughs at retail and more full-priced selling.

Finally, the company also is planning on opening fi ve to 10 Calvin Klein stores in top mall locations to showcase the Calvin Klein white label prod-uct. The openings are expected later this year.

The company also will begin shipping in the second half of 2007 an Izod women’s line that so far has been well received by its retail partners. And also on the agenda is the recently announced Timberland sports-wear license for men in fall 2008 and for women in fall 2009.

“Phillips-Van Heusen con-tinues to perform at the top of its game. In looking ahead, we are excited about the new initiatives being launched in 2007 and beyond, and believe this will only add to the power of this company….We believe

Timberland apparel is a $200 million growth op-portunity over the next fi ve years. In addition, the fi ve Calvin Klein specialty stores being launched in 2007 and an additional fi ve in 2008 provide an-other avenue to showcase the Calvin Klein brand. We also believe the addition of the Izod women’s line enhances and complements the existing port-folio of brands,” wrote analyst Jennifer Black of the fi rm that bears her name.

Diane von Furstenberg Sues Forever 21 Over Copyright

Calvin Klein Paying Off for PVH

Fashion Scoops

A fall 2007 look from Calvin Klein.

Antoine Arnault

Vintage motorcycle helmets.

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Tyra Banks, Amerie, Kimora Lee Simmons, Keisha Whitaker and Garcelle Beauvais.

Tyra Banks, Amerie, Kimora Lee Simmons, Keisha Whitaker and Garcelle Beauvais.

Basics InstinctAfter seasons of frippery and frills, designers are going back to the basics, offering a wide range of solid separates with serious layering potential.

Laila Azhar’s rayon and silk jersey dress. Wolford tights; Cesare Paciotti shoes.

4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

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Dorothy Lee’s wool and cashmere sweater, and turtleneck and skirt, both in cotton. Michel Perry shoes.

Nanushka’s cotton T-shirt and halter,

and acetate and polyamide shorts.

Lauren Moffatt’s silk dress.

WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007 5

6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007WWD.COM

In the Mainstream

SALTAIRE IS CROSSING A NEW BRIDGE.After launching a men’s line in spring 2005, the company is entering women’s for

fall with a bridge-priced lifestyle collection that is notably without even one power suit associated with the bridge department of yore.

“There’s a revolution-evolution in the bridge world,” said Saltaire executive vice president Helaine Elias. “The old bridge I would equate to what our parents would wear — it really focused on career, but women no longer wear suits to work. Stores fi nally have understood what this customer wants: lifestyle.”

Saltaire’s new line will bow this fall, a season after Andrew Rosen’s Premise line, which launched with a similar purpose of reaching the customer who had grown up with Theory but is maturing beyond the contemporary department, hit fl oors. Elias, who formerly was executive vice president of women’s at Elie Tahari, said Saltaire is similar to Elie Tahari and Tory Burch in scope.

Though full of refi ned jackets and knits, Saltaire is built around “a strong bot-toms business.” The pants offer four fi ts — skinny, wide-leg, “long-and-lean” and relaxed straight-leg — in each fabric. Also, in multiple denim washes, are three different jean fi ts: skinny, wide-leg and an in-between style.

“We wanted to offer a great- fi tting pant that is contemporary looking with a higher rise and more generous fi t,” Elias said. “It’s for women in their 30s who don’t want to look like their 13-year-old daughters, but still want to look ‘with it.’”

Owned by Seattle Pacifi c Industries but based in New York, Saltaire uses Italian fabrics, including wool, silk, cashmere, suede and leather.

“It is about luxury fabrics in understandable silhouettes,” Elias said. “She’ll pay anything if she wants something.”

The wholesale price range opens at $52 for tops and climbs past $500 for outerwear. Pants sell for $88 to $110, while knits go for $66 to $176. Elias declined to project volume.

Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus and other specialty stores have already booked orders. The men’s line is carried in Nordstrom and other upscale specialty stores.

Saltaire also plans to have its own retail operation, with a women’s and men’s lifestyle store in the Fashion Show mall in Las Vegas opening in August and in NorthPark Center in Dallas in September. The plan is to open two to fi ve stores a year going forward, said Elias.

— Whitney Beckett

Saltaire Enters Women’s

Sara Campbell Seeks to Raise Brands’ Profi lesBy Katherine Bowers

BOSTON — Designer Sara Campbell specializes in cheery frocks with flowers and polka dots, so it’s a good thing she hasn’t become cynical.

Not that Campbell hasn’t had good cause.In the past two decades, the veteran designer, 50,

has survived a $2.3 million corporate embezzlement for which her former brother-in-law was convicted, the col-lapse of New England’s last bastion of garment produc-tion in Fall River, Mass., and the shift in her company’s lucrative private label work to overseas factories.

Those forces combined to defl ate the company’s rev-enues from $20 million in its Nineties heyday, when it pumped out private label dresses for Laura Ashley and others, to about $7 million.

Campbell and her partner, Peter Wheeler, who have co-owned the Sara Campbell business here for 25 years, hope to rebuild by positioning their two lines, Sara Campbell and Sara Jane, as important dress and skirt resources for boutiques. The fi rm opened its fi rst New York showroom in February in an attempt to reach more buyers.

Boston, however, remains home base. None of the past turmoil is evident in Campbell’s two-story, red

brick building in the South End neighborhood. The of-fi ce and studio occupy the second fl oor; the fi rst fl oor is a store that’s a girly festival of spring dresses, matching coats, striped umbrellas and chunky, Fifties-style glass jewelry. Her sensibility is part Lilly Pulitzer, part “Ya-Ya Sisterhood,” and, unsurprisingly, she has her strongest following in the South. Sitting in the offi ce she shares with Wheeler, Campbell described herself as being on the cusp of Act Two.

She is working to brand Sara Campbell and Sara Jane through a relaunched Web site (e-commerce is planned for next year) and a newly hired marketing and public relations team.

Buoyed by the unexpected success of their store — which has fl ourished despite being tucked into a quasi-industrial backwater without parking — she is contem-plating another location. In May, Campbell will begin Harvard University’s Owner/President Management Program, a three-year commitment during which she will spend several weeks a year living in Harvard dorms with other entrepreneurs from around the globe. She hopes the program will bring fresh ideas about how to navigate

an industry increasingly split between small fi rms that service boutiques and big-business private label.

“The industry is going like this,” Wheeler said, fork-ing out his hands to illustrate the divide. “It’s very hard to do both private label and your own line well, but we need both. Private label generates cash, but there’s no security in it. As a third-party vendor, when business gets tight, you’re in the riskiest category” for cuts.

Half of company revenues, about $3.5 million, come from the private label work that Wheeler oversees. Talbots is the biggest and longest-running customer.

Both branded collections cater to an unabashedly girly shopper who likes bows on patch pockets, ruffl es at the hemline and items that coordinate.

“Bows, pleats, covered buttons, piping and little clus-ters of detail,” Campbell said, reeling off treatments she believes add value and makes a garment feel special. She’s unswayed by the darker palette and baggier sil-houettes in recent seasons.

“My customer loves color,” Campbell said. “We want to build a brand so we’re not taking our eyes off this customer.”

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Three fall Saltaire looks.

The Sara Campbell store in Boston.

Dresses from misses’ label Sara Campbell.

A look from contemporary

label Sara Jane.

WWD.COMWWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007 7

BERLIN — Escada is entering the Indian market this week with the opening of two flagships in Mumbai. A third shop in Delhi will open in a few months and, in total, seven shops are slated for India within the next two years.

Escada is working with S. Kumars Nationwide Ltd., or SKNL, as its exclusive distribution partner in India. The diversifi ed tex-tile company generates an annual turnover of 10 billion Indian rupees, or $232.3 million at current exchange. The SKNL subsid-iary Brand House Retails Ltd. sets up and manages shops for the group’s brands as well as acting as an exclusive India franchisee for international luxury labels. In addition to Escada, SKNL has signed a retail distribution agreement with Dunhill men’s wear.

Escada declined to divulge fi rst-year sales goals, nor were further details available concerning the size of the stores.

— Melissa Drier

Escada Begins Expansion in India

ANOTHER ONE TO GO: Another day, another magazine folds. Following Time Inc.’s decision Monday to shutter Life, Meredith Corp. said Tuesday it would fold Child after the June/July issue. But just like Ellegirl, FHM and Life, the title will live on as an online brand as part of a new parenting portal Meredith will launch this summer. Approximately 30 staffers will be laid off as a result of the closure. Meredith said another 30 staffers across the publishing division would be let go.

Meredith acquired Child along with Parents, Fitness and Family Circle from Gruner + Jahr in 2005. But the title has struggled since then, especially with the launch of a new competitor in the space, Cookie. Child’s paid and verifi ed circulation fell 18.5 percent to 740,534 in the second half of 2006, according to the Audit Bureau of Circulations; Meredith removed most newsstand copies of Child from shelves last summer. Ad pages fell 15.2 percent to 914, according to Publishers Information Bureau. Current Child subscribers will receive offers for Parents after the title folds.

Meanwhile, Cookie, owned by Condé Nast Publications (parent of WWD), will increase its rate base to 400,000 from 350,000 with the July/August issue and move to a 10-times frequency from six times next year. — Stephanie D. Smith

CUTTING BACK: More trouble at American Media Inc.: The company on Tuesday laid off 20 staffers, including 12 at celebrity weekly Star, and eight others throughout the rest of the company. Those leaving Star are said to include editor Jon Auerbach, fi lm and TV critic Marshall Fine, two photo editors, one designer and a reporter. The layoffs are part of a strategy to shave $19 million in costs that chief executive offi cer David Pecker outlined as part of a conference call last month, though more cuts are not expected. “This is the second and fi nal phase of cost reductions,” said a spokesman. — S.D.S.

DIGITAL PUSH: Time Inc. has made no secret that its future is a digital one, but on Monday fi nally broke out how much. John Squires, an executive vice president, said that if the company can drive its digital components, such as si.com and cnnmoney.com, to 20 to 25 percent of its bottom line, there should be no “problems” in the future. On that note, sikids.com and Fannation.com, a news site and social network for sports fans, will launch on April 16, golf.com relaunched last week, cnnmoney.com will unveil a new luxury channel on April 4 and si.com had a home page redesign in late January. Traffi c is up 11 percent since the si.com redesign, said Paul Fichtenbaum, managing editor.

And, to help its Web properties provide more video content, the publishing division recently introduced Time Inc. Studios. Paul Speaker, the unit’s president, said the in-house studio will help brands with creative development and content distribution, along with providing production expertise and equipment for editors. Speaker added that more advertisers are requiring Time Inc. to include video components in its proposals. — Amy Wicks

COMING TOGETHER: Bravo’s “Top Design” will make room for two rival magazine editors to be celebrity judges. Linda O’Keeffe, Metropolitan Home’s design and architecture editor, will join Elle Decor editor in chief Margaret Russell on tonight’s show, where contestants have to design a high-end, modern hotel room at the Viceroy Hotel in Los Angeles. O’Keeffe’s appearance is ironic since Elle Decor ended up beating out Metropolitan Home and several other magazines to appear on “Top Design” as permanent judges. Clearly there are no hard feelings — Bravo and Elle Decor invited O’Keeffe onto the show because of her expertise in modern design. — S.D.S.

WATCHDOG: The New York Times will have a third public editor when Byron “Barney” Calame’s term ends in May, a Times spokeswoman confi rmed, despite Times executive editor Bill Keller’s earlier acknowledgement to the New York Observer that the future of the position was in question. The timing of the next appointment “has not yet been determined,” said the spokeswoman, but Calame’s term will not be extended.

Though some readers and Times staffers have repeatedly criticized Calame for missing the forest for the trees (in so many words and repeatedly), and Calame’s columns chronicle the tension between Keller and him, the decision to continue the public editorship comes just as Calame has been more decisive than his reputation suggests. Several Times reporters and editors favorably cited the column on whether The New York Times was slow to follow The Washington Post’s scoop over conditions at Walter Reed Army Medical Center, as well as last Sunday’s tougher take on the Kurt Eichenwald source controversy. “There’s a broad consensus that the Eichenwald affair explains why we need an ombudsman in the fi rst place,” said one staffer.

Calame called himself “old-fashioned” but defended himself as having “done my best.” As for who will follow him, Calame said he has “gone out of my way not to get involved” in the matter of his successor. A month ago, Calame said, he wrote Keller an e-mail asking him how to plan for continuity. Keller responded that he was weighing “the whether and the who,” in Calame’s words, and invited suggestions, though Calame demurred. His last day is May 8, and the fi nal column will run April 22.

Candidates are usually identifi ed and interviewed by Keller, Calame said, with Times Co. chairman Arthur Sulzberger Jr. making the fi nal call. — Irin Carmon

NOT SO GLAAD: Emotions ran high at the 18th annual GLAAD Media Awards held in New York Monday night, where honorees included Tom Ford, Patti LaBelle and comedian Kate Clinton. During the opening video montage and throughout the ceremony, mentions of John Amaechi, the former professional basketball player who wrote a book about being a closeted homosexual in the NBA, and comedian Rosie O’Donnell drew cheers from the 1,600 attendees. But some public fi gures drew less approving gestures. Controversial political pundit Ann Coulter drew boos, and even Details editor in chief Dan Peres was heckled from the back of the room as he accepted the Outstanding Magazine Overall Coverage award for Details. The heckler screamed “gay or not?!” repeatedly from his seat, distracting Peres so much that he shortened his onstage remarks. “I know that there are men out there that don’t agree with what Details stands for — gay or straight — but it’s a shame that someone had to speak up about it while I happen to be accepting an award,” Peres said later about the heckler. Meanwhile, Ford earned the Vito Russo award; LaBelle took home the Excellence in Media honor; O’Donnell and director Shari Cookson won Outstanding Documentary for “All Aboard! Rosie’s Family Cruise,” and Tim Gunn accepted the Outstanding Reality Program award for Bravo’s “Project Runway.” — S.D.S

NEXT HURDLE: The quiet chatter surrounding the sale of Dennis Publishing may rise to a dull roar by the end of next week, after bidders make it through the second round of meetings. Although no interested parties spoke on the record, the previously reported fi gure of between $200 million and $250 million still appears to be a likely sale price. Private equity fi rms are a prime candidate to buy the publisher of Maxim, Stuff and Blender, according to sources, but recent player Ripplewood Holdings, behind the Reader’s Digest Association acquisition, said it is not interested. — A.W.

MEMO PAD Tom Ford Tim Gunn

WWD.COM8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

By Valerie Seckler

NEW YORK — Baby Boomers ought to reimagine how they spend their time, advised the country’s first Boomer president, Bill Clinton, who, at age 60, is right on the gen-eration’s leading edge.

“We can’t spend all our time watching TV Land,” Clinton said archly of the chan-nel that hired him to address an audience full of potential advertising clients, while noting his 15-year relationship with TV Land’s parent, MTV Networks. The link was forged in 1993, when Clinton’s fi rst administration tapped MTV for help with the Motor Voter registration campaign, and it continues today in the joint efforts of Nickelodeon and Clinton’s Alliance for a Healthier Generation, to fi ght childhood obesity and diabetes.

If it were Clinton’s call, the country’s 78.5 million Boomers would spend at least some of their time responding to the challenges of living in a newly interdependent world. “I believe it’s the fi rst world of global interdependence,” the nation’s former chief executive said Friday. Pointing out this relationship is based on communica-tions networks as well as economics, at a time when about $1 trillion a day crosses national borders, he added: “It’s good and bad. It means we can’t escape each other, even if we try.”

As Boomers age, the question about their legacy is whether they can share, sacrifi ce and leave be-hind a better world, not just leave the world as consumers who ac-quired physical goods and wealth, observed Bill Strauss, a genera-tion expert who roomed with for-mer vice president Al Gore at Harvard University.

“Boomers are always looking for a symbol and gesture in all they do,” Strauss said in an inter-view. “When they do something, they’re making a statement. It’s a cultural declaration. So the more marketers can infuse late-life products with meaning, that’s a positive thing.”

Marketers intent on winning over those now ages 42 to 61 will be targeting people with a life ex-pectancy longer than any of their predecessors. Boomers who, like Clinton, would reach 65 in 2011 can expect to live an average of at least another 18 years, accord-ing to “The Boomer Century: 1946-2046,” a new PBS documen-tary produced by Alexandria Productions and Generation Entertainment, scheduled to air nationwide tonight.

“Baby Boomers grew up believing we can’t lead authentic lives unless we look beyond the narrow scope of our own lives,” Clinton recalled. “The difference today is we can actually do it.” This opportunity, in large part, is founded on the unifying power and speed of the Internet, he contended.

“The Internet has given people the power to do almost anything if enough people in the world decide to do the same thing at the same time,” said the former president. “We cannot build the world we want without responsible actions by private citizens, combined with government action.”

For its part, TV Land, starting in October, will encourage its audience to give back to society through “Cause Change,” an on-air promotion that will emphasize the ben-efi ts of doing so via volunteerism, philanthropy and good citizenship. In his remarks, Clinton described the Boomer generation’s sense of mission as its most important contribution to today’s youths. “Our parents were World War II veterans and most of

us grew up in the civil rights era,” he recounted. “This fostered a strong sense of citizenship.”

In a world that has al-ready witnessed the deaths of 9 million people in World War I, more than 20 million in World War II and 6 million in the Holocaust, Clinton cautioned: “The difference now is this time we think it could be us. In an interde-pendent world, just as we can claim the common ben-efits, we can’t escape the hazards.”

Ci t ing Alexis de Tocqueville’s vision of Americans as a people who, when faced with a problem, “roll up their sleeves and try to solve it,” Clinton tagged the U.S. government’s post-tsunami airlift in Indonesia as “clearly the most impor-tant international operation led by President Bush since he’s been in offi ce.” By virtue of such actions, he said, “we are building a world with more partners and fewer ad-versaries.”

And the foundation on which solutions can be built for a world in which life is unequal, unstable and unsus-tainable, he said, is a closer-knit world community. “I’d

like to create a more globally integrated world and create a greater sense of belonging to a community,” offered Clinton. He underlined the urgency of the pursuit by noting roughly 1 billion of the world’s 6.5 billion people live on only $1 a day.

In such a time, marketers will be making their appeals to a Boomer generation which itself is in fl ux, one that is entering new life stages — from empty nesting to grandparenting to entering second careers to retiring. This year, for the fi rst time, more than half of Boomers are over 50. This will give them a critical mass that Lifestage Matrix president Geoff Meredith expects will enable the country’s most affl uent gen-eration to have more infl uence over pop culture than “since they were babies.”

While it has yet to take hold on a signifi cant scale, generation expert Meredith is continuing to predict many Boomers will abandon hair color treatments, retreat from cosmetic surgery and embrace alternatives such as changing their diets and exercise regimens or going gray, within the next fi ve years.

To date, Meredith said, few marketers have spoken to a Boomer mind-set marked by acceptance of the group’s stages in life. A rare exception, in his view, are fi nancial services companies like Fidelity and Ameriprise. “I think they’re doing it best,” he said. “The Gap’s closing of Forth & Towne [later this year] is a classic example of getting it right strategically and botching it in execution,” continued Meredith, who has been hired to consult for Gap. The crux of the problem, he said, was that Forth & Towne abandoned its plans to focus on Boomers and instead targeted mostly women ages 35 to 40 when it opened in West Nyack, N.Y., in 2005 and expanded to locations in six states.

“Gen-Xers were making decisions,” Meredith noted, “and making them for too wide an age range.”

It’s comfortable, it’s idiosyncratic and it can make people feel important.These are the forces leading twentysomethings to

frequent entertainment haunts, stores and restau-rants closer to home more often, reports Irma Zandl, a trendspotter and night crawler who specializes in the attitudes, tastes and lifestyles of youths and young adults.

A preference for “easygoing bars” and an aversion to VIP lists, seen as “not being worth it,” emerged in interviews of 500 21- to 29-year-olds conducted throughout the second half of 2006 by Zandl’s market-ing consultancy, The Zandl Group. Equally off-putting, the group said, are $20 cocktails, nightlife scenes that start around 11 p.m. and bouncers that may put a quick end to an outing.

Local settings, in contrast, often serve up a sense of ease. “It’s not a big effort. You don’t have to make plans, dress up, and maybe you’ll get in, maybe you won’t,” Zandl noted. “You may know a bartender, you may get free drinks, there may be other people you know there.”

In a global marketplace marked by a sense of same-ness, one antidote is for people to gather in local ven-

ues and shop locally, observed Marian Salzman, ex-ecutive vice president and director of strategy at JWT. “Local is family, it’s where you need to be,” she said. “There’s a real desire to be part of a small, manage-able community where you know other people.”

“It makes you feel that as a customer, you mat-ter. That, to me, is what local is really about,” Zandl offered, naming Kitchen Club, Cafe Habana and Bloomingdale’s SoHo store as among her favorites in proximity to her downtown Manhattan business and home. “Also, there’s more interest in shopping in more local places — like Bloomingdale’s SoHo store for me,” she added. “It’s smaller, more curated. Having my own salesperson is a big deal; she calls me.”

As a result of such dynamics, trendspotter Salzman, for one, anticipates people will increasingly place a premium on items identifi ed with a specifi c locale, such as maple syrup from Montpelier, Vt., or pecans from Cameron, S.C.

It’s the antithesis of a mind-set that thrives on things being good enough. “I know I’m never going to be truly disappointed with a green tea latte and fruit and cheese plate from Starbucks. It’ll be OK,” Salzman said of chain experiences that thrive on “dulling down differences,” providing experiences without too many highs or lows. “At a little local place,” she added, “the chicken pot pie could be great or putrid, but my expec-tations are different.”

— V.S.

Twentysomethings Take the Local Route for Sense of Community

Bill Clinton Calls Boomers to ActionMarketing

Bloomingdale’s SoHo: Smaller and more curated.

50.8%: Share who were women in 2005.57.8 million: Projected population in 2030; 54.9% women. One-third have at least $100,000 in investable assets.Four in fi ve intend to keep working and earning in retirement.330: Number of Americans turning 60 every hour in 2006.

SOURCE: U.S. CENSUS BUREAU; PBS

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Bill Clinton. Left: Forth & Towne strayed from the Boomer consumer, said generation expert Geoff Meredith.

WWD.COM10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

NEW YORK — Less optimistic shoppers sent the Consumer Confidence Index to its lowest level since November, amid concerns over higher gasoline prices and a weakening expectation for the labor market.

The Consumer Confi dence Index came in at 107.2 for this month, down from 111.2 last month. The index was dragged down by a decline in the Expectations component. The Present Situation Index inched up slightly to 137.6 from 137.1 last month, but the Expectations Index fell to 86.9 from 93.8.

“Apprehension about the short-term future has suddenly cast a cloud over consumers’ confi dence,” said Lynn Franco, director of The Conference Board Consumer Research Center, in a statement.

Franco said even though respondents’ answers re-fl ected diminished expectations, their “assessment of present-day conditions [remained] steady” and did not suggest a weakening in economic conditions. However, she did note that the direction of both components should be closely watched over the next few months to

“determine whether this decline is just a bump in the road or something more substantial.”

Consumers’ overall assessment of present-day con-ditions stayed essentially the same, with those claim-ing conditions are “good” at 28.3 percent from 28.7 percent last month, while respondents saying condi-tions were “bad” was unchanged at 14.9 percent. But 9.8 percent of those who participated in the survey also anticipated business conditions to worsen, up from 8.2 percent last month.

Respondents were also more pessimistic when it came to their outlooks for the labor market. Those who expected fewer jobs in the months ahead rose to 16.5 percent from 14.2 percent in February, while consumers who anticipated more jobs to become available fell to 12.7 percent from 13.3 percent. The proportion of consumers expecting their incomes to increase in the months ahead fell to 17.5 percent from 19.2 percent in February.

— Vicki M. Young

By Koji Hirano

TOKYO — Chanel will exhibit its haute couture col-lection and sell its handbags at Restir’s latest store opening this week in a newly developed commercial district, Tokyo Midtown.

“I have been watching Restir’s Ginza store and got interested in it,” said Richard Collasse, president of Chanel K.K. in Japan. “Recently, there are more con-sumers who go to specialty stores to look for goods from luxury brands. Restir is something that attracts our future customers.”

The collaboration between the French luxury label and the rapidly growing specialty store will take place when Tokyo Midtown opens in Roppongi, Tokyo. The complex has six main buildings and projects 30 mil-lion visitors and commercial sales of 30 billion yen, or $250 million at current exchange, a year. The Japanese Defense Agency once occupied the site, which was then developed by six companies, including Mitsui Real Estate, at a total cost of $3 billion.

Restir Midtown has two fl oors covering a total of 10,760 square feet at the main entrance of the shop-ping mall Galleria. “Chanel is in the highest rank in women’s fashion,” said Hiroaki Takashita, president and chief executive offi cer of Restir. “It was my long dream to sell Chanel at my store, which is now highly recognized in the market.”

Like Restir’s Ginza fl agship, the Midtown store show-cases men’s and women’s luxury brands and designer collections. Last year Restir signed an agreement with Balenciaga to distribute the collection in Japan.

Restir focused more on luxury and designer brands after it renovated the Ginza store in spring 2005. It sells Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Fendi, Sergio Rossi, Miu Miu, Yves Saint Laurent and watches from Hermès.

The fi rst fl oor of Restir Midtown will function as an ex-hibition space, where 11 styles from Chanel’s haute cou-ture collection will be displayed starting Friday until May 6. A 10-foot-high bag bar will be installed to show off a rep-lica of Chanel’s 2.55 line with vintage fi nishing, as well as some other lines from the brand’s archives. Collasse de-clined to comment on sales projections, but said “to show Chanel’s essence at Restir is what we think important.”

Collasse said there has been a change in consump-tion patterns in Japan. “There are fewer people who buy a thing because it has a famous brand tag or be-cause it is made in Western countries, and we want to be fl exible against such a change,” he said. “We never lose the identity of the Chanel brand in collaborating with a specialty store.”

Within an area of 741,365 square feet, the Tokyo Midtown complex has 130 tenants, including fashion retailers, interior shops, restaurants and cafes, as well as health and beauty service counters.

The 35 fashion retailers include Chloé, Harry Winston, Pleats Please Issey Miyake, Puma, Bottega Veneta, Marni, Lucien Pellat-Finet and British men’s wear retailer Richard James, which is opening its fi rst store outside London in the complex. There also are 18 interior and design shops, 27 restaurants and bars, 33 food stalls and cafes and 17 other services, such as a cooking school and bookstores, as well as offi ces. Suntory Museum moved to Tokyo Midtown and a Ritz- Carlton hotel will be located there.

Consumer Confi dence Slips

Restir Opens at Tokyo MidtownBy Kristi Ellis

WASHINGTON — Two key House Democrats proposed a frame-work of conditions for the Bush administration in order to gain their support for pending trade agreements, and a broader set of principles for renewing the presi-dent’s trade promotion authority.

Reps. Charles Rangel (D., N.Y.), chairman of the Ways & Means Committee, and Sander Levin (D, Mich.), chairman of the trade sub-committee, gave the blueprint to U.S. Trade Representative Susan Schwab and Treasury Secretary Henry Paulson Jr. on Tuesday and unveiled a one-page document, entitled “A New Trade Policy for America” at a news conference, saying they had the backing of House Democratic leaders and the party caucus.

“The Democratic proposal released today is a positive, credible proposal,” said Reps. Jim McCrery (R., La.) and Wally Herger (R., Calif.), the two top Republicans on Ways & Means. “It goes a long way towards reach-ing our shared goal.”

Schwab said in a statement: “We have an historic opportunity to create a path forward at this critical point in U.S. trade policy.”

Highlights of the Democrats’ trade plan, including conditions for the administration, are:

● Requiring countries, par-ticularly those with which the U.S. has pending free trade agreements — Peru, Colombia and Panama — to meet core International Labor Organization

standards, including abolishing slave and child labor and the right to collective bargaining for a union.

● Congressional passage of a two-year extension for the Andean trade preference pro-gram, which provides duty free benefits for Peru, Colombia, Bolivia and Ecuador and is set to expire in June.

● Pressing for “immediate” action by the administration on China “currency manipula-tion.” Critics, including many in Congress, say China’s currency is undervalued by as much as 40 percent, making goods from that country unfairly cheap and lead-ing to job losses in the U.S.

● Establish a U.S. trade en-forcer to prepare World Trade Organization cases.

● Require countries to imple-ment and enforce common multi-lateral environmental agreements to combat global warming.

“We now have a trade policy that we think is going to be ac-ceptable to Republicans and to the administration for all trade agreements,” Rangel said. “We have a boilerplate basic policy we expect to be in every agreement.”

The release of the Democrats’ trade principles comes as the administration is trying to fi nd a compromise with Democrats on pending agreements with Peru, Colombia and Panama, and one being negotiated with South Korea.

Democrats are calling for chang-es to the signed accords with Peru and Colombia, urging that labor and environmental provisions be strengthened. Levin said he ex-pects the deals to be amended.

Asked whether the principles and conditions were a “take it or leave it” demand, Rangel said, “I don’t know how to say ‘take it or leave it.’ They are looking at it and I know one thing, they’re not going to leave it.”

Levin said the Democrats’ “preference” is to get an agree-ment with the administration on labor and environmental provi-sions before a March 31 dead-line, but the timing appears to be fl exible.

The administration is trying to submit the four trade pacts to Congress under existing Trade Promotion Authority, which ex-pires June 30. Although this au-thority allows the president to make agreements without amend-ments from Congress, the new Democratic majority is exerting pressure to shape the accords.

Key Democrats Give President Trade Blueprint

By Courtney Colavita

MILAN — Call it the Valentino effect.Organizers behind the Paris fall couture shows

and the Milan and Paris men’s spring collections are moving up their respective fashion weeks to ac-commodate the designer’s 45th anniversary bash in July in Rome.

The July edition of the couture shows, which in re-cent years has begun on a Wednesday, is scheduled to kick off Monday, July 2, and close July 5, just in time for the start of the Valentino festivities on July 6.

“The move in the calendar is an exceptional mea-sure connected to an exceptional event,” said Mario Boselli, president of Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda. “We all decided to move up the shows to make things smoother for everyone involved.”

The calendar shift is rippling right down to the Milan men’s spring collections, which are starting a

day earlier on Saturday, June 23.While Valentino has repeatedly denied the anni-

versary event is really a guise for a blowout adieu, the resolve by the Italian and French chambers of fashion — and thus dozens of designers and hun-dreds of editors — to change their schedules under-scores the gravitas of the event.

Meanwhile, details surrounding the Valentino weekend are starting to emerge. The designer will host a retrospective installation on Friday eve-ning inside the Richard Meier-designed Ara Pacis Museum. Opened last spring, the glass and travertine building houses the ancient Roman Altar of Peace and is the fi rst modern piece of architecture to be built in the center of Rome in almost a century.

On July 7, the designer will present his fall couture show. Later that night, Valentino will host a black-tie gala dinner. Locations have yet to be revealed.

— With contributions from Luisa Zargani

Shows Adjust for Valentino Celebration

The Chanel display at Restir.

Rep. Charles Rangel

WWD.COMWWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007 11

MILAN — Cosmoprof will celebrate its 40th birthday with an early opening to the beauty fair’s key pavilions in Bologna on Thursday.

The show will open the doors to Beauty Landscapes, which houses selective perfumery and cosmetic brands, a day earlier than the rest of the exhibition, which kicks off on March 30.

Beauty Landscapes, located in Pavilion 16-18, will run on simultaneous dates with Cosmopack (Pavilion 19-20) from March 29 to April 1, closing one day earlier than the rest of Cosmoprof.

Staggering the dates gave the four different areas of the show — perfumery-cosmetics, hair salons, beauty salons and cosmetic packaging — more defi ned identities, said Luca Franzoni, marketing manager of Sogecos, which organizes Cosmoprof.

“Cosmoprof is a gigantic fair,” said Franzoni. “We felt that the areas have different souls and there was more synergy between the cosmetic packaging and perfumery and cosmetics sections, so with the backing of exhibi-tors in the perfumery and cosmetics area, we changed the dates.”

Further uniting the two areas, Sogecos has con-structed an elevated bridge link between Pavilion 16-18 and Pavilion 19-20.

First launched in 1967, Cosmoprof ’s Bologna edi-tion has evolved into an enormous beauty fair. This year’s edition includes 2,176 exhibitors, who occupy

more than 923,673 square feet of space.Though not many changes have been made to the

fair’s layout, for the second year running, Beauty Landscapes will feature Beauty on Stage — a the-ater-like space where nine prestigious selective beauty brands showcase new launches in tailor-made events. Newcomers to the arena include Puig, Procter & Gamble and Selective Beauty. Selective Beauty, which holds fragrance distribu-tion licenses for Trussardi and MaxMara, among other fashion brands, plans on previewing Trussardi’s spring-summer 2007 collection in a catwalk show to commemorate the launch of the brand’s Trussardi Inside fragrance.

Further celebrations for the 40-year-old beauty show include the launch of a book, “Bellezza — 40 Years of Beauty through the Eyes of Cosmoprof,” set to be unveiled on Thursday. The book is a collec-tion of photographs of objects from the International Perfumery Museum in Grasse, selected by Thierry de Baschmakoff, the noted cosmetics packaging designer.

— Stephanie Epiro

Remembering Jacques Courtin-ClarinsPARIS — Hundreds gathered to celebrate the life of

Jacques Courtin-Clarins, founder of Groupe Clarins who died last week at the age of 86, during a funeral in the Paris suburb of Neuilly on Tuesday.

A host of beauty executives, including Chantal Roos, president and chief executive offi cer of YSL Beauté; Philippe Benacin, ceo of Inter Parfums SA, and Patrick Ales, ceo of Ales Groupe, attended the religious ceremony, which paid tribute to Courtin-

Clarins, a visionary in the beau-ty industry. Clarins executives — both past and present — were in attendance as well. So were Courtin-Clarins’ sons, Christian

and Olivier, who are the currently the company’s president and ceo, and vice president of research and development, respectively.

During the ceremony, Olivier Courtin-Clarins read a passage that advised attendees to laugh as they al-ways had. But many found that hard to do so soon after Courtin-Clarins’ passing.

“We have lost our father,” said a spokeswoman for Clarins’ Most Dynamic Women program, which was created by Jacques Courtin-Clarins to support chil-dren’s charities run by women around the world.

Clarins’ headquarters was closed for the day Tuesday so that staff could attend the service held at the Eglise Saint-Pierre in Neuilly-sur-Seine, France.

— Ellen Groves

BEAUTY BEAT

Cosmoprof Fetes 40 With Early Opening in Bologna

Tweaking the Flagship at Saks FifthContinued from page oneJacobs and Oscar de la Renta.

Also on the drawing boards: rebuild-ing the behind-the-scenes infrastructure, developing closer connections to custom-ers through technology and a remodel-ing of the restaurant on fl oor eight with a “state-of-the art” kitchen that also caters Saks parties.

“We want to make sure our fl agship represents Saks and our designers in the best way possible and that we’re doing that in the right time frame,” said Suzanne Johnson, who became group senior vice president and general manager of the Fifth Avenue fl agship last month. “It’s probably not as fast as the original plan because of the sheer economics. It’s an old building. Whatever we do is very expensive.”

The 646,000-square-foot fl agship, with roughly 340,000 square feet for selling, is Saks’ biggest asset. It’s critical for the chain’s revival, accounting for about 20 to 25 percent of sales, or roughly $650 mil-lion to $700 million of the chain’s total volume, which came to $2.94 billion last year. Between 12,000 and 15,000 people visit the store on a typical day, though the count can be as high as 20,000. Despite the wear and tear, it’s said to be in better shape than most other old buildings. Opened in 1924, the store was expanded into the Swiss Tower on Madison Avenue in 1989. Some major renovations have already occurred in the last few years, including building a perimeter of design-er accessory shops, a larger fi ne jewelry department on the main fl oor and an updat-ing of designer sportswear on two, with the addi-tion of new shops for Ralph Lauren Black Label, Piazza Sempione, Armani Collezioni, Dusan and Loro Piana.

The plans for the fl agship come amid reports that private equity fi rms and some retailers have been kick-ing the tires at Saks, which has been showing improved results lately. Anyone considering buying the business would fi rst focus on the fl agship, which is owned by Saks and is estimated by real estate sources to be worth over $1 billion.

Considering it has landmark status, is opposite Rockefeller Center and across the street from St. Patrick’s Cathedral, there’s no opportunity to add high-er fl oors, so it’s a question of maximizing the existing space, which poses enormous logistical and service challenges.

In addition to the third fl oor and shoe renovations, Johnson outlined signifi cant changes, including:

● A new bridal salon on fi ve due in June.● The installation of a Web-based clienteling system

to increase communications with the public and gener-ate increased transactions. The system just went live.

● Possibly rebuilding infrastructure for processing deliveries and getting goods on the fl oor faster and more ef-fi ciently.

According to Johnson, the new shoe fl oor will have an express elevator to eight, to where shoes will be relocated from their current space on the fi fth

fl oor. There will also be a shoe repair service and quicker access to storage

and retrieving the shoes for the selling as-sociates. “This is where the back of the house

has to be perfect,” Johnson said. “You have to be able to put the shoes back quickly. We’ve got to really

be running that shoe inventory and there has to be lots of seating.” The restaurant will remain on eight.

The third fl oor will see improved adjacencies and key vendors will be given more space, Johnson said. And commenting on the upgraded bridal salon, she said, “It will be comfortable enough to support the bride and her entourage.”

The fl agship’s 1,500 selling associates have been trained on a Web-based clienteling system that connects to Federal Express so deliveries can be tracked and cus-tomers can know when to expect their purchases.

Meanwhile, there’s an intensifi ed calendar of de-signer personal appearances ahead. The Rachel Roy collection was introduced at Saks last week with a party for the designer; Donatella Versace and Alber Elbaz will appear for their fragrances next month, and Graeme Black for his collection also next month.

Aside from all the front and center partying, Johnson is making infrastructure a priority and has an anecdote to illustrate the point. “On my fi rst day, I was here very early. I walked around the whole block at 6:45 a.m. I started my

rounds in the basement and worked my way up and learned that the freight elevator was broken. It had been broken for 30 days. It was just old,” Johnson said. “Night crews were loading and unloading trucks on the street,” including merchandise destined for the Off 5th outlet division. “Merchants wanted to know where their merchandise was,” and some of it was languishing on the 49th Street side of the store.

“One of the biggest challenges I have is to assess the whole support infrastruc-ture for processing merchandise — the back of the house,” Johnson said. “We don’t have enough space to process the quantity of inventory that is coming into this building. There is not enough back space to process it effi ciently.”

Arriving merchandise must be un-packed, accounted for and hanged. “The whole reengineering of that is not the most glamorous thing, but it is most im-portant if we want to bring the fl agship to a new level,” Johnson said. She added that the company is considering process-ing merchandise to get it fl oor-ready at a

different location, possibly in the city, or in Aberdeen, Md., at the Saks distribution center.

Her last Saks job had its less glamorous side, too. Since 2002, she ran Off 5th, based on 31st Street and Ninth Avenue, a remote location compared with mid-town Fifth Avenue. “When you boil it right down, I sold the markdowns. That was my job,” Johnson said.

Discussing her promotion to the fl agship, she gets ani-mated. She’s responsible for getting a strategy in place to grow the fl agship business, executing the sales plans, and said she spends 80 percent of her time on the selling fl oor or in stock areas. When she’s back at her offi ce, Johnson is checking the hourly fl ash, and that often drives her back on the selling fl oor, particularly if the store is falling short of plan, to encourage managers to get the business in gear.

She’s also sentimental about the fl agship because her father, a former psychiatrist, bought his army uniform at Saks for World War II. Her mother was a jazz singer.

Johnson, 51, has been with Saks for a total of 21 years. She joined the company in 1983 as assistant gen-eral manager in Cincinnati, ran branch stores in differ-ent parts of the country and rose to a senior vice presi-dent and regional director of stores, at times in different regions. She’s from Whitefi sh Bay, Wisc., and currently lives in Westport, Conn. She was director of stores for J. Crew from 1992 to 1996, before returning to Saks.

“I always wanted this job. It’s a dream job. Steve knew I wanted to run this store,” she said, referring to Steve Sadove, the chairman and chief executive of Saks Inc. Next to Sadove and Ron Frasch, president and chief merchant, Johnson as the fl agship representative would be among the more visible executives at the company.

“I didn’t push that hard, but I really wanted this job for 10 years,” Johnson said. “It’s the greatest store in the world.”

Suzanne Johnson

The Saks Fifth Avenue fl agship in New York.

Suzanne Johnson

WWD.COM12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

SAN DIEGO — Issey Miyake was in a reflective mood when he appeared in San Diego on March 16 as part of the celebration of the 2006 Kyoto Prize, Japan’s highest private award for lifetime achievement. The Inamori Foundation, endowed by Japanese telecommunications entrepreneur Kazuo Inamori, bestows the honor on three innovators each year who have made significant contributions to basic science, advanced technology and the arts. Miyake, 68, is the first fashion designer to be select-ed in the prize’s 22-year history. Winners each receive $425,000, a gold medal and are feted in Kyoto and San Diego, where the U.S. headquarters of Inamori’s com-pany, Kyocera Corp., is located. The other 2006 honorees were U.S. immunologist and geneticist Leonard A. Herzenberg, 74, and Japanese statistical mathemati-cian Hirotugu Akaike, 78.

Miyake, who was among the fi rst designers to embrace tech-nology and apply it to fashion, trained as a graphic designer in Tokyo and moved to Paris in 1965. He was relaxed and gra-cious as he chatted over lunch in a meeting room overlooking the Pacifi c. He opened a new studio on Friday designed by renowned architect — and 2002 Kyoto prize winner — Tadao Ando.

“I studied haute couture, and it was a very good education for me, but they had already perfected it — I could not go beyond,” Miyake said of his time in Paris, where he worked at Givenchy and Guy Laroche. “So I went to New York to do something new, but I

had to think of something, something different from European fashion.”

Miyake, however, fell ill and returned to Japan in 1970. There he made an immediate splash with the Tattoo Dress, an homage to Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin. Bloomingdale’s began buying Miyake’s pieces, and his career started to take off. By 1973, he was al-ready moving away from traditional fabrics, using nylon and polyester instead.

“In 1988, I started working with pleats, and I wanted them to hold their shape and be easy to care for and to be washable,” he said. “In Tokyo, we are close to the manufacturer, and we can see what they are doing

and what more we can do.” His Pleats Please collection soon be-came one of his most successful enterprises.

Miyake recalled with affection the days when dresses destined for the runway were hidden in boxes before the shows so no one could see them, and named Jean Paul Gaultier as one of his favorite designers. “Jean Paul re-ally knows how to play with fab-rics and he has beautiful couture skills,” he said. “He has a won-derful sense of style that few peo-ple have, and a very strong iden-

tity, very proud of being French. He is a treasure of France.” Miyake also described Martin Margiela “a wonderful, extravagant designer.”

With the launch of A-POC — an acronym for “A Piece of Cloth” — in 1998, Miyake showcased new techniques in fashion design. As he did with his signature collec-tion, now under the aegis of Naoki Takizawa, and Pleats

Please, Miyake is preparing to hand A-POC to a veteran design assistant so that he can move on.

“It takes seven or eight years for people to understand what I am doing, and at nine years, it’s time for new ideas,” Miyake said. These may include a return to natural fabrics. “I’m looking for a way to embrace global cultures and individual cultures, to keep the beautiful individual charac-ter of each culture but make it modern. The kimono is not prac-tical, but it is very beautiful and it matters to return to that kind of tradition, to embrace and rein-terpret it. I always remember the beautiful red [Spanish] castanets and the Mexican jackets. The beauty of tradition and of differ-ent cultures is what I am drawn

to. The danger of worldwide fash-ion now is that we will all look the same. Differences, uniqueness are very important.”

Miyake’s new Tokyo base will be the 21/21 Design Center, a fortress of art and design. “20/20 is perfect sight,” he said. “Our work as designers and artists is to see beyond that.” Playing with that notion, in fact, has already begun with the creation of graphic pieces made from rebar from the angular poured-concrete building. “There was a scandal in Japan: Buildings were made from concrete without the steel to keep them strong,” he said. “We immediately took pictures of our steel to show we put it in the building.”

— Marty Graham

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Moschino Forges Ahead, Revisits PastBy Luisa Zargani

MILAN — The late Franco Moschino may have added Couture! to his label to poke fun at fashion in his unconven-tional, tongue-in-cheek way, but there is a new twist to this expression when it returns with the house’s spring-summer 2008 collection — and nostalgia has nothing to do with it.

The reintroduction of the Moschino Couture! tag, which was dropped in the fall-winter 1998-1999 season, is a tribute to the essence of the brand and points to the exclusivity of the goods, said Thierry Andretta, the com-pany’s new chief executive offi cer.

“We want to underscore the sophisticated elegance of the brand,” Andretta said in an interview at company headquarters here.

The soft-spoken Andretta, who was previously presi-dent of Replay US and held executive posts at high-end sportswear company Belfe, Emanuel Ungaro, Celine and Gucci Group, said the fi rm’s goal is to evolve towards an even more “refi ned” product across the board.

The house also is revisiting the Moschino Jeans brand, produced by SINV, the Italian clothing manufac-turer that controls 30 percent of Moschino SpA, and has launched a “red carpet” men’s project.

As the brand garners customers among celebrities — from Kylie Minogue and Beyoncé Knowles to Patricia Duff, Jessica Alba and Dita Von Teese — Andretta said the company is working on “providing a male counter-part au par to this female standard.” The men’s division is licensed to Venice-based Gruppo Forall.

“We were not really focused on men’s wear before,” Andretta said.

Moschino also is investing in the accessories division, which is posting a “triple-digit” rise, “just below 100 per-cent growth,” for both the Moschino and Cheap & Chic brands, Andretta said. The Muffi n bag in different sizes and materials is Moschino’s current bestseller, with a waiting list of months.

“After all, Rossella Jardini [creative director] can count on her early experience at Bottega Veneta, and you can really see her talent with accessories, too,” Andretta said.

A longtime friend and collaborator of Franco Moschino, Jardini took over the cre-ative reins after the designer died in 1994, growing the company without ever veering from the spirit of the founder. In 2006, accessories accounted for 10 percent of sales. Andretta underscored the importance of offering a wide choice of accessories, dif-ferentiating them depending on the region they target.

“We are making structural changes, so that we can offer smaller bags for the Asian customers, for example,” Andretta said.

Moschino is one of the companies — along with Louis Vuitton, Salvatore Ferragamo, Fendi and Burberry among others — that agreed to open an accessories corner at Milan’s La Rinascente department store last year, which is being revamped by chief executive offi cer Vittorio Radice.

“We are very happy with our business at the store,” Andretta said, adding that a clothing corner will also open in May at La Rinascente. Shoes and bags are produced

by Pollini, controlled by Aeffe, which owns 70 percent of Moschino SpA and the Alberta Ferretti business.

Moschino also plans to launch two fragrances this year. The fi rst — called Funny! — will be introduced in May. The fragrance business, licensed to Euroitalia, ac-counts for 14 percent of total sales. Moschino SpA last year reported sales of 78 million euros, or $101.4 mil-lion at current exchange rate. Its licensing business registered sales of 200 million euros, or $260 million. Andretta declined to provide projected sales for 2007.

Andretta said he has high hopes for the watch divi-sion. Last fall, the licensee, Sector Group, was acquired by Morellato SpA from Bulgari SpA-managed investment fund Opera. “Our watch business grew last year, but we expect a further push with the new owners, which guar-antee a top structure and fi nancial solidity,” he said.

The executive noted that the company’s investment in retailing also is a chance to better present the brand’s more diversifi ed and high-quality product offerings. Moschino plans to open 14 boutiques this year, building business in emerging markets. Two boutiques launched in South Korea in February, one was inaugurated in Bahrain this month, and one in Ukraine will be unveiled in May. A second store is also slated to open in Delhi, India, this year.

Jardini and the in-house design team are working on a new concept for the Cheap & Chic Milan store on Via Spiga, which will reopen in September and become the model for the restoration of other boutiques. The company counts a total of 67 boutiques globally and its goal is to reach 111 units in 2011. There are 292 points of sale that carry both Moschino and Cheap & Chic in Italy, and 525 abroad.

At the end of May, the company is to add a shop-in-shop for both brands at Saks Fifth Avenue’s Manhattan fl agship. “The U.S. market is very loyal to the brand and we see excellent performance at the department stores we work with,” said Andretta, citing Bergdorf Goodman, where there are two shop-in-shops, as well as Neiman

Marcus, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Barneys New York. Andretta said the company is mulling whether to open a store in Manhattan. The U.S. accounts for 12 percent of company sales.

In the next 18 months or so, Moschino will launch a hotel in a partnership with Mobygest, one of Italy’s leading chains. The hotel will be in Milan’s Corso Como area, close to the future fashion area Città della Moda, and is expected to have 72 rooms, a spa and a restaurant.

“It will truly be in the Moschino style, and we are trademarking a number of spe-cial seats and home collection pieces,” Andretta said. “I’m very motivated. The brand has tremendous potential, in all product categories, and is backed by the solidity and vision of Aeffe.”

Andretta said that, in addition to a “deep respect” for Jardini’s work, he accepted the ceo job treasuring the memories of an Eighties holiday in the south of Italy with a friend who introduced him to Franco Moschino. “I met him back then and thought he was an extraordinary person, whom I always considered the Andy Warhol of fashion, with his communication so similar to art,” Andretta said.

Miyake Honored With Kyoto Prize for Lifetime Achievement

A Miyake look.

Issey Miyake in San Diego.

Beyoncé Knowles in Moschino. Eva Mendes with Moschino’s Muffi n bag.

WWD.COM13WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

WWD West

LOS ANGELES — Zoe Shaeffer and Renee Roman Klein, who were trained to foresee trends, relied on both research and in-stincts in deciding to launch a designer boutique.

The two friends, who worked at national magazines such as Seventeen, Self and Cosmopolitan in addition to the Doneger Group consulting fi rm, became convinced that a boutique spe-cializing in timeless-feeling designer apparel could succeed.

Presse, the 1,300-square-foot shop they opened last week on La Brea Avenue here, is the result of the partners’ educa-tion in retailing.

“There seemed to be a resurgence in the popularity of bou-tique shopping,” Klein said. “In department stores, the inti-macy, the customer service and the selection is missing. The bigger guys are trying to please too many people.”

The mandate for Presse is personalized shopping. “It’s im-portant for us not to try to please every customer,” Klein said. “We’re not for everyone.”

The target demographic for Presse ranges from 25 to 55 years old, and the apparel selection represents different aes-thetic sensibilities — from classic to sporty to street-inspired and even avant-garde.

The store carries pieces from designer labels such as Vera Wang, Doo.Ri, and Azzedine Alaïa. Less pricy lines include dresses and separates from Joseph and Alicia Levine, which retail for about $200, and jeans from brands like Habitual and Acne that range from $150 to just over $200.

The pair said they hope to keep prices under $3,500 for top-tier items, including gowns and outerwear. That’s steep for the district, home to denim-driven store American Rag Cie as well as year-old designer specialty boutique Iconology, which has been favoring less expensive brands after sensing some price resistance to top-tier labels.

Shaeffer designed the store’s ladylike-meets-downtown decor with a team of consultants, including her mother, an interior decorator in New York.

An overstuffed salmon-colored silk velvet couch is the cen-terpiece for the white-walled, open space, featuring 12-foot ceilings. Leather and canvas bags from Devi Kroell and British label Jos M.B. sit inside vintage-inspired custom-made shelves. Jewelry, clutches and wallets from designers such as Vera Wang and Lara Bohinc are arranged inside elegant vitrines Shaeffer picked up at an antique store in Atlanta.

The store’s back wall, which will soon be home to a 400-pound mirror, is sheathed in custom silk wallpaper depict-ing a vintage-looking design of birds frolicking amongst fruit trees. Large cowhides splattered with gold paint, à la Jackson Pollack, cover portions of the unpainted concrete fl oor. “We were going for a glam, eclectic living room feeling,” Shaeffer said. “We wanted it to be a little unexpected.”

— E.V.

Two Pals Share Designer Store Vision

Sophistication, Luxury Mark L.A. Trade ShowsLOS ANGELES — Retailers were enamored of sophisticated looks and luxe fabrics at the five-day contemporary market.

Starting a day after Los Angeles Fashion Week fi nished, the trade expo that ended here Tuesday tried some runway theatrics with presentations organized by Yana K, Carilyn Vaile and buying offi ce Directives West, which spotlighted Single among other companies that have showrooms here.

Directives West displayed more than 145 looks that hit trends such as wide-leg trousers, skinny jeans and mini-dresses. Yana K’s dresses grazed the fl oor in daytime jer-seys and evening-ready metallic fabrications, and short dresses were fl irty in candy-colored silks. Vaile’s acces-sible collection in jersey knit and silk included high-waisted skirts and artsy tops and tunics.

“There was defi nitely a more tailored and dressed feeling for fall, which we were very happy to see,” said Carter Hancock, co-owner of specialty shop Sienna in Los Angeles. “Dresses still had a major presence, but there was defi nitely a move back towards the more feminine, high-waisted and fi tted silhouette.”

SHOWROOMSSaying that the U.S. is getting “too frumpy,” Shawn Holoubek, owner of specialty shop Elizabeth & Prince in La Quinta, Calif., said he was “trying to bring back a dressy attire.”

Apparel makers tried to appeal to retailers like Holoubek. Ben Sherman eliminated women’s track jack-ets, offering instead knitwear such as sweater dresses and argyle-patterned racer-back vests.

In lieu of embellishments, designers like Thrive’s Diane Martin drew the eye to high-quality fabric, including silk and Swiss cotton with pleats and pintucking. “Anything with pleats has been a good seller,” said David Shamouelian, co-principal of Romeo & Juliet in New York.

Even trenchcoats and leggings got a makeover. New York’s Gryphon trimmed a cotton trenchcoat with Mongolian lamb, although Plastic Island turned to Lurex and cable knit for its leggings. Plastic Island sales represen-tative Shun Hong predicted this fall will be the last season for leggings. And the Korean company feminized its trench-coat with a bubble hem so that it can double as a dress.

Crispin & Basilio also created a hybrid of casualwear and tailoring by attaching a hood to a cropped French wool blazer.

Retailers kept up interest in dresses, from Chan Luu’s silk tank dress with gathered seams and Nanushka’s strapless number with banding at the waist and bottom, to jumpers from Anna Sui and Louis Verdad.

And denim still sold. Lyric Culture launched a jeans line with three styles, four washes and wholesale prices from $81 to $160. Found Denim said jeans in dark medium wash-es gained momentum. Red Engine said its top seller was a more streamlined, dressy silhouette whose 17-inch leg opening fi t somewhere between straight and boot cuts.

As for the palette, Tom K. Nguyen and XCVI pre-ferred somber hues, including dark green, navy, brown and black. GoldSign’s Adriano Goldschmied coated leather pants in silver and gold. At CW Christian Weber, bold hues such as purple, gold and plum helped its debut fall collection get orders from stores such as Gary’s in Newport Beach, Calif., and Lulu’s in Bal Harbour, Fla., and New York, said Brian Stark, owner of Brand Equity Showroom.

Tracey Ross, owner of an eponymous Los Angeles boutique, said she ordered sweaters, knit tops, satin slipdresses and trousers from Katayone Adeli’s collection, which is “sexy, rock ’n’ roll chic.”

DESIGNERS & AGENTSAlthough dresses remained a top seller, manufacturers narrowed spring’s outsized

tent silhouette to fi tted cocktail looks and boxy sheaths.Retailers such as Victoria Kray, manager of Los Angeles specialty store Malgosia,

homed in on a silk spaghetti-strapped minidress with a fi tted bodice and full skirt at Kloset Red Carpet, a Bangkok-based label that showed in Los Angeles for the fi rst

time. “The details are so amazing,” Kray said.Moonie Phantharath, showroom representative for

Kloset Red Carpet, said while the trade event has been “a little slow for us in general,” Anthropologie wrote orders for delicately hand-beaded and embroidered silk blouses wholesaling for about $120.

Sienna’s Carter Hancock said she, too, was on the hunt for “dresses that come in at the waist…instead of the shapeless Mod dress,” eventually ordering classic satin and silk cocktail dresses from Jill Stuart’s diffusion line, Jill.

While dresses slimmed down, knit tops bloomed into oversize cable-knit sweaters seen at Edun, Double A and Qi Cashmere, among others. New York’s Jamison showed billowing pullover and cardigan styles in muted colors such as grayish-pink, and Tsesay offered bat-winged sweaters with Seventies-inspired abstract patterns.

Kristopher Enuke, who designs Los Angeles’ Oligo Tissew, presented the show’s most intricate — and per-haps pricy — cable-knit pieces: hand-knit, fl oor-length cardigans featuring folksy, imperfect chunks of yarn jut-ting out from the shoulders with a $629 wholesale price.

Enuke’s wife, Amy, said staging a runway show last week gave their sales at market a boost, and that the company has evolved in the past year from an almost purely denim brand to a collection-driven company that downplays jeans.

BRIGHTESome buyers were looking rather than ordering, causing several vendors to question whether the accessories cat-egory is beginning to cool off.

Emily Ironi, owner of Alexis Hudson, has a wait-and-see attitude, although the Los Angeles company has suc-cessfully opened new accounts such as Neiman Marcus. “People are getting their spring-summer bags and they want to see what happens before they commit to future seasons,” she said.

Fraser Ross, owner of specialty chain Kitson, advised handbag companies to rein in deliveries. “You don’t need deliveries every month at an $800 price point,” he said. “In the handbag business, there is only so much you can do with a piece of leather.”

To avoid bombarding retailers, Maree Glaser, vice president of specialty store sales at Linea Pelle Inc., said the Los Angeles accessories fi rm is making one early fall delivery, not two.

As for popular fall colors, deep red and gray domi-nated the palette. At SHIH by Stephanie Lin, gray was in demand, said operations manager Kelly Boyd. Beth Springer, designer of a namesake handbag line based in Venice, Calif., which sells to Anthropologie and Olive &

Bette’s, dubbed the dark red hue that was selling well “blood.” In the Alexis Hudson booth, “merlot” was the moniker for a similarly rich hue.

Springer and Ironi both said the strongest styles were ladylike, structured and clean, as compared with embellishment-heavy ones that cluttered accessories shelves in past seasons. “[Buyers] do not want to look at studs,” Ironi said.

At SHIH by Stephanie Lin, Boyd agreed that fall handbags were simpler. Oversized bags remained a constant, but the newest slouchy styles, which wholesale between $262 and $272, demonstrated a move away from elaborate decoration.

“As far as hardware goes, we are really trying to get away from excess,” Boyd said. “We are really trying to stress function.”

— Khanh T.L. Tran, Emili Vesilind and Rachel Brown

● Cropped shapes in jackets from slouchy to swingy.● Leather trims on heavy wool frocks.● Flirty blouses, dresses, tunics and skirts in patterned and solid silks.● Dresses, from minis in trapeze, Empire and voluminous silhouettes to relaxed fl oor-length looks.● Clean, architectural jersey and cashmere pieces layered, generally in black and white.● Men’s wear fabrics from houndstooth to plaid for pencil skirts, apron dresses and suits.● Medium denim washes paired with high waists or wide legs, and simpler lean and boyfriend shapes jazzed up with waxed denim or foil details.

TRENDS

Plastic Island’s cotton-rayon trenchcoat as a dress.

Carilyn Vaile offers modern layering pieces for fall.

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Presse in Los Angeles.

14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

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Orange County [email protected]

Los Angeles [email protected]

St. John, headquartered in Irvine, California, one of the premier names in American women’sfashion and widely recognized in the fashion industry for its innovative and extensive manu-facturing capabilities is seeking creative, exceptional and dynamic individuals to join ourteam. The following exciting opportunity is based in Southern California.

FASHION SHOW PRODUCERThe Fashion Show Producer will be responsible for the planning and execution of all sizescale fashion presentations for the St. John brand and the logistical management of allsample lines used worldwide. The position requires luxury apparel experience working closelywith all design, creative, merchandising, marketing, and sales functions to ensure consistencyof marketing and brand messaging.

The ideal candidate must bring excellent organizational and communication skills andpossess the skill set to meet the following responsibilities:

The planning, production, and execution of fashion presentations (both small and large)including but not limited to:

•Show Styling •Set Design, construction, and Installation •Determining and executing all Lighting and Audio / Visual Needs •Model Selection, Castings, and Fittings •Hair & Make-Up Direction •Music Direction

The logistical management of multiple original samples lines in which responsibilities willinclude:

•Sample Line Inventory from initial reception through the end of season •Transportation of sample lines between market and store-line events •Management of support personnel •Care of sample lines for the duration of the season

To apply: Please submit resumes to [email protected] or fax to 949-437-8112.St. John is an equal opportunity employer. To view all career opportunities within

St. John please visit www.stjohnknits.com

TEMP / FREELANCETD- Wovens/TD Sweaters/TD Knits $20Hr- $30Hr- $40Hr- $50Hr- $60HrEast & West Coast Opportunities!

[email protected]: (212) 947-3400

MARKETING MANAGERLODIS - LA based fashion acces-sories firm seeks sharp indiv tomanage and implement brandingand web initiatives, analyze, createand implement market strategy,direct shows. 3-5 years brandmgmt / mktg. Proven success,innovative, tenacious people!

[email protected]

SENIOR DESIGNERS (2)1. Collection/Tailored Suiting

2. Athletic Streetwear BEBESPORT Must have 7 yrs. exp. developingsophisticated collections. You must

possess excellent sketching, presentation & managerial skills.POSITIONS ARE BASED IN OURLOS ANGELES DESIGN ROOM.

FAX resumes to: (213) 362.2497

DesignerDesigner needed to perform all design room activities. Developdesign concepts, bring forth new ideas and inspiration through

sketching, draping and various other forms of execution. Following first sample through to production. Minimum 4 years

experience.

Assistant DesignerTo assist in all design room activities. Work together with

designer in all aspects of design. Utilize fabric and trim sourcingskills and ability to create presentation and mood boards. Aid in

the preparation of production fittings, taking fit notes andfollowing them through to completion.

Pre-Production Assistant Seeking dynamic individual to serve as a liaison between design

and production. Create spec and technical packages to insurethat original concept is carried through to production. Must be

detail oriented and organized. Illustrator and Photoshop a must.Minimum 2 years exp.

All positions are located in Los Angeles. Salarycommensurates with experience. We offer a

comprehensive benefits package.

Please fax or email your resume with salaryhistory to:

213.747.9311 or [email protected].

Headquartered in Orange County, CA, The Wet Seal, Inc.provides a culture like no other where employees enjoy

a dynamic, energetic & creative environmentwith great benefits!

CORPORATE RECRUITING MANAGERSeeking strategic recruiting leader with experience inmerchandising positions for retail corporate office.

REQUIREMENTS: Minimum 5 yrs in recruitment.Merchandising background a MUST. Employee Relations

experience a plus. BA degree or equivalent.

Excellent compensation and benefits package, generousemployee discount, casual dress code, alternative workweekschedule offering 12 extra days off per year, an on-site gym

and more!

TO APPLY: Submit resume to [email protected]

www.wetsealinc.com

STORE MANAGERSan Francisco’s premier luxury

women’s boutique seeks a fashionsavvy professional with a min. of

3 yrs. apparel management experi-ence who is focused on achievingsales objectives. High-end clothingknowledge is a plus. A lucrative

compensation package is availablefor the enthusiastic candidate whohas excellent selling, clientelling,recruiting, and customer service

skills. Offer will include relocationexpenses. Please forward

resume and salary history to:E-mail: [email protected]

Or Fax: (425) 462-2965

SENIOR DESIGNERSTwo positions available.1) Tailored Suiting/

Collection Designer2) Athletic Streetwear

BEBESPORT DesignerMust have 7 years top brand

experience developing sophisticatedcollections. You must possess

excellent sketching, presentation,and managerial skills.

POSITIONS ARE BASED IN OURLOS ANGELES DESIGN ROOM.Please forward resumes to:

FAX: (213) 362-2497or EMAIL: [email protected]

DESIGNER(Contemporary & Urban)

Los Angeles, CAEst’d Men’s clothing co.

seeks designers w/ min 2yrs exp. Knowl of AdobeIllustrator, Photoshop,

fabric, yarn dye, print & knitwear & color req’d. Salary+ benefits. Fax resume:213-748-3625 or E-mail:

[email protected]

15WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Call 1-800-423-3314 or email fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise.Source: 03/06 ABC; WWD Subscriber Study, Beta Research Inc., 2005.

careers26,630 WWD readers are located in the Western region of the United States.

real estateopportunities

travel

suppliers

recruitmentReach top-level decision-makers in retail and manufacturing inWWD Marketplace.

NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Location: US-CA, San Clemente

EMU Australia is a diversified, global distributioncompany that provides quality products to customers in the

United States, Canada, Australia, Europe & Asia.

National Sales Manger will have extensive knowledge &expe-rience in sales and marketing and the ability to develop short andlong term strategies for continued growth of the company are amust. Individual must be highly self motivated & possess bothstrong managerial skills and selling skills. Must have successfulsales records, strong contacts across the USA with independents,department stores & catalogues. Minimum 5 years experiencein the footwear industry.

We offer our associates a competitive salary and com-prehensive benefits package.

To apply for this position, please send your resume &salary history to: [email protected]

EMU Australia is proud to be an EOE Affirmative Action Employer.

Sr Account ExecutiveLos Angeles

California ContemporaryWomen’s line seeks a SeniorAccount Executive for West

Coast showroom.

The Sr. Account Executive isresponsible for sales analysis,negotiating, and strategicplanning. Account Executivewill drive wholesale sales byproactively managing acco-unts businesses and under-standing the territory’spotential.

Please submit resumewith salary history to:

[email protected]

SALES REP20 year, established, stable companybased in LA seeks aggressive establishedrep. with junior and contemporary,moderate price, chain and dept.store contacts. Please send resumeand list of active accounts to:[email protected]

Dolce & Gabbana is currently seeking qualified candidates for:

STORE MANAGEMENT, OPERATIONS &SALES POSITIONS

New York City, Short Hills & California Boutiques

REQUIREMENTS:• Previous sales experience in luxury retail or high-end service environment.• Candidates must have an existing client base and experience

with Men’s or Women’s apparel and accessories.• Excellent interpersonal skills supporting a team environment.• Excellent communication skills both verbal and written.• Must be flexible regarding work schedule.

Please email or fax resumes with salary history to: Email: [email protected] Fax: 212.223.5107 Attention: Human ResourcesOnly those applicants being considered for employment will be contact-ed. Only qualified candidates need apply. No phone calls please. EOE

ATTENTION: FASHION EMPLOYERS!

recr

uit The Fashion Industry’s Largest Career Fair

Interview hundreds of prescreened professionals experienced in the fashion, retail & beauty industries – all in one day!

www.FashionCareerExpo.com

Reserve your company’s participation today, this event will SELL OUT in advance! Contact Melissa Yoblon @ 212.655.4505 x262 or [email protected]

Your participation includes: a color ad in WWD, 25 job postings on FashionCareerExpo.com and access to resumes before and after the event.

THURSDAY, MAY 17TH, 10AM - 3PMCALIFORNIA MARKET CENTER110 EAST 9TH STREET, LOS ANGELESDIRECTIONS ONLY: 213.630.3600

• 7 For All Mankind• American Eagle Outfitters • Barneys New York• Bloomingdale’s• Brooks Brothers• Catherine Malandrino• Chico’s FAS, Inc.• Christian Dior • Cipriani Accessories• Cole Haan• Eileen Fisher• Elie Tahari• Gap, Inc.• Guess?, Inc.• H&M • Larry Hansel Clothing

• Jones Apparel Group• Limited Brands• Liz Claiborne, Inc.• Maidenform, Inc.• Movado Group, Inc.• Nordstrom• Paul Stuart• Prada USA Corp.• QVC, Inc.• Theory• Tiffany & Co. • Tourneau, Inc.• Urban Outfitters, Inc.• Vera Bradley Designs• Warnaco, Inc. ...& more!

Past exhibitors include:

JEWELRY REPS WEST COAST TERRITORYHigh end fashion jewelry lineseeks qualified wholesale salesreps, based in CA, to increasenumber of new accounts andmaintain existing accounts.Fashion experience is a must.Ideal candidate will have es-tablished specialty store rela-tionships. Possible travel and/or attendance at tradeshows.All marketing material is pro-vided. Travel expenses cov-ered. High sales potential!

Please email resumes to:[email protected]

INDEPENDENT REPSLaunching new apparel line (mens,ladies & juniors) with smokin designs,cutting edge printing techniques &global appeal with social message.Looking for motivated, connectedreps with established relationshipswith upscale/hip women’s stores& boutiques, high commissions,all territories considered.

Please contact: [email protected]

16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

JOBBER/EXPORTERWe buy better goods. All categories,

including fabrics. Immediate $$.Please call 212-279-1902

1407 BROADWAYSHOWROOMS/OFFICES

TREBOR MGMTBob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314

Search For Space In Garment CenterShowroom/Office/Retail - no fee

www.midcomre.comOr Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100

Fulfillment CenterWell equipped clothing whse /factory, located in LI, NY avail.

to fulfill individual co. needsT-shirt specialists - over 600,000 / wk

24 hour Quick Turnaround• Folding • Ticketing • Packaging• Shipping • Trucking • Labeling

• Distribution • Embroidering • Storage• Printing • Label change • E-commerce

• Price ticket production • Bagging• Inspecting

Call owner 631-767-0139

China ManufacturerProduction and Sampling; Any styles;Excellent in quality, delivery & price.Tel(646) 322-7139/[email protected]

RETAILERS &MANUFACTURERS

DISTRIBUTION SERVICE•Pick & Pack Services•Apparel & Hardgoods•Consolidation Services•Established 1977•Prestigious Client List•Great Management Team•Dedicated Hardworking Employees

CALL: Rob Kennedy(201)865-1100

CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTINGU4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400

www.sanodesignservices.com

Freelance Tech. DesignerKnits/Sweaters, Follow-thru to T.O.P.16+ years, NY location. Fluent ChineseCall: (718) 358-3318/[email protected]

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service.Call Sherry 212-719-0622.

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

Full service shop to the trade.Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.

Patterns/Samples/ProductionSnaps/Covered Button

Any Style - Full ServiceCall 212-278-0608 / 646-441-0950

Beading Service By ProfessionalContract: Penney 917-576-3138

Production PackageDomestic and China; computerized 1stpattern through prod’n. Specializing inprivate label. Any style; Any quantity.High quality; Best service. 212-819-0188

FASHION RESUMES SINCE 1970Lifetime Updating/Phone Interviews

Rush Service AvailablePROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC.

(212)697-1282/(800)221-4425www.resumesforfashion.com

TECHNICAL DESIGNERFREELANCER - 14 years experienceExcel, Word, Illustrator, Photoshop

Call: 646-942-6754E-mail: [email protected]

ACCOUNTANTDesigner sportswear company seeksan Accountant. Prior exp in A/P is a must.E: [email protected] F: 212-695-9483

Equal Opportunity Employer

Account ExecutiveInternational Sales ExecutiveSeeking highly motivated sales prowith min 2 years int’l exp. & contemp.background in sportswear & dresses.Must possess excellent comm. & ana-lytical skills. Some traveling req’d.

Fax resume to 212 869 4043

Admin Assist $30-35KWork w/ CEO/COO/VP Merchandising

at Major Sportswear Manufacturer.General Admin Responsibilities.

[email protected] 212-947-3400

Admin Since 1967

W-I-N-S-T-O-NAPPAREL STAFFING

DESIGN * SALES * MERCHADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION

(212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437

Assist Fabric Buyer $45KBetter Bridge Designer, Wovens

[email protected] 212-947-3400

MERCHANDISINGDivisional Merch. Manager • Women’sDivisional Merch. Manager • Men’sDivisional Merch. Manager • FootwearMerch. Manager • FootwearMerch. Manager • Women’s ActiveMerch. Manager • Lounge & IntimatesBuyer (8 Positions)

TECHNICAL DESIGNJunior Technical Designer

PUBLIC RELATIONSDirector of Corporate PRPublicist

HUMAN RESOURCESSr. Corporate RecruiterRetail/Store Recruiter (Entry-Level)

DESIGNSr. Accessories DesignerSr. Wovens Designer • Women’sSr. Footwear Designer • Women’sSr. Footwear Designer • ChildrensSr. Active & Loungewear DesignerSr. Designer • BabyAsst. Designer • Men’s ActiveAsst. Designer • BoysAsst. Designer • Women’s

GRAPHIC DESIGNWomenswearJuniorsMen’s & Young Men’sWomen’s ActivewearUrbanGraphic Coordinator

VISUAL MERCHANDISINGVisual Project Coordinator (4)

TO APPLY:Please submit your resume to [email protected].

Indicate Job Title in the subject line.Equal Opportunity Employer

CAREEROPPORTUNITIES

DIRECTOR OF MERCHANDISINGFootwear Opportunity

Do you have a strong merchandising background and a desire to work inan entrepreneurial environment where you can truly make a difference?Benchmark Brands/Footsmart has a great opportunity for a Director of Mer-chandising - Footwear. Must have a minimum of 8 yrs of merchandisingexperience in a direct marketing or catalog business inclusive of 5+ yearsof Footwear exp. BA/BS Degree with emphasis in Merchandising or Market-ing highly preferred. For more information or to apply, please visit ourcareer page at benchmarkbrands.com or footsmart.com

Billing/EDIContemporary garment manu.requiresa billing & EDI person. One yr exp. req

FAX: 212-382-3623

BOOKKEEPER F/CApparel exp., Quickbooks exp. Midtownlocation. Career Oppty! Pls. fax resume

and salary req’s to: (212) 921-0705

BOOKKEEPERManhattan based UK owned swimwearbusiness seeks highly experiencedorganized p/t bookkeeper. Must haveknowledge of all aspects of A/P, A/R,bank and credit card account manage-ment and reconciliations and customerinvoicing. Excellent knowledge ofquickbooks required. Email resumeto: [email protected] andput bookkeeper in subject line.

BOOKKEEPERNYC Menswear Co. Peach Tree sys, A/R,

A/P, order entry, JE’s, trial bal., bank & factor rec., computer entry, Excel a must.Email resume to: [email protected]

BUYER/ PIECE GOODSEstablished jr. mfg seeks Piece GoodsBuyer, detail oriented, organized,comp skills a must. Must communicatewith suppliers/factories.Fax resumes to: 212-268-4920 or email:[email protected]

Buyer

PIECEGOODS/TRIM BUYER

Womens designer apparel co. seeks fabricand trim buyer to source, purchase andcreate trim packs. Must have min 5years experience with import/domestic ,excellent follow-up and computer skillsrequired.

Please email resume to:[email protected]

CUSTOMER SERVICEANNA SUI

Must have 2+ years experience dataentry, invoicing, EDI implementation,excellent communication and computerskills and ability to multi-task.Fax resume & salary req: 212-768-2358

DESIGN

ASSISTANT DESIGNER(PRODUCTION)

Outerwear Co. seeks Assistant Designer.Must be organized & motivated, able tojuggle multiple job tasks! Proficient inIllustrator a MUST. Ability to speakexcellent English a MUST! Have artisticeye for detail & proportion. Must knowhow to sketch & do worksheets on Il-lustrator &Web PDM. Salary: $30K+commensurate on experience. MedicalBenefits/401K available. Hours: 9-6 pmE-mail: [email protected]

or Fax resume to: (212) 944-7857

Design Assistant (RTW)Creative, detail oriented, responsible& a good team player. Can follow thrua project, work under deadlines, multi-task. Knowledge of Illustrator a plus.

E-mail resume & work sample to:[email protected]

Shipping Managerand Customer ServiceHard working, detail oriented, reliable.Can work under pressure, have goodjudgment and communication skills,at least 2 years administrative exp.

Fax resume: 212-625-8712

Carolee, the premiere designer fashion jewelry company, has positionsavailable in our Greenwich, CT headquarters for;

VISUAL MARKETING COORDINATORRESPONSIBILITIES:•Develop Merchandising floor plans

•Oversee imagery orders and distribution

•Maintain library of photo assets

•Design in store signage/graphics

MERCHANDSIE PLANNER/ANALYSTRESPONSIBILITIES:•Manage inventory ownership for private label brands

•Analyze sku specific rolling forecasts weekly to achieve supply/order ful-fillment goals

•Review, recommend, maintain and implement replenishmentadditions/deletions

ASSISTANT PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MANAGERRESPONSIBILITIES:•Review, process & troubleshoot all design product specifications

•Negotiate all pricing with overseas vendors

•Work within brand team to execute product vision

•Track, organize and maintain data system entries up for all samples

REQUIREMENTS FOR ALL POSITIONS •Ideal candiate will have 2+ years experience

•Excellent communication and follow up skills, detailed oriented team player•Proficiency in MS Word, Excel, QuarkXpress and Photoshop

Competitive compensation package including salary, bonus, benefitsincluding 401K and generous merchandise discount.

Submit resume and salary requirements to Carolee: [email protected]

Accounts Receivables/Chargeback Specialist

Concept One Accessories is look-ing for an Accounts Receivables/Chargeback Specialist.

Responsibilities include research-ing factored chargeback’s,handling all non-factored & creditcard orders, collections andcustomer inquiries. Must have 2years experience working withfactored customers and beproficient in Quick Books and Excel.

Please send resume withsalary requirements to:[email protected].

Design

ASSOCIATE DESIGNEREstablished Designer Company seeksa talented associate designer. Applicantmust have 3 years of technical & creativebackground in the designer/contemporarymarket. Must be great with Photoshop,Illustrator, Tech Packs & have excellentcommunication & organizational skills.Outstanding taste level and work ethicsneeded.

Excellent opportunity and room forgrowth! Please email resume to:

[email protected] fax to: 212-239-2409

DESIGN

ASST DESIGNERSeeking experienced and well organizedasst designer for leading manufacturerof social occasion dresses. Must beexperienced w/sample room, computerliterate, communicate with factoriesoff shore, able to work in fast-paceddesign room, have knowledge of gar-ment construction and consumptionplus freehand sketching ability. Candi-date must be motivated, creative, ableto multi-task and work well within thedesign team to meet deadlines.

Email resume and salary history in confidence to

[email protected]

DESIGN

CAD ARTIST DESIGNERSeeking highly creative individualwith 3+ years experience . Proficientin Illustrator and Photoshop withexcellent sense of color and trend forJR market. Must have ability to designoriginal print, screens, embroidery andyarn dyes. Qualities needed include,work well under pressure, to beflexible and have a team playerattitude . Please forward resume to:

[email protected]

PUBLIC RELATIONSCOORDINATOR

VERSACE, a leading luxury de-sign house has an exceptionalopportunity available for anexp’d PR Coordinator with 3plus years exp in the luxuryMen’s market. Ideal candidatemust have establi-shed strongrelationships with editors andexperience in executing all pub-licity and promotion initiativesfor Menswear Lines.

Please email resume andsalary history to:

[email protected]

Designer

BRIDGE SPORTSWEARDESIGNER

Established $25m+ women’s bridgesportswear co. is seeking a passionatedesigner w/5-10 yrs exp. Must meetdeadlines, possess great follow-thruand exp with sophisticated taste.Responsible for design/line developmentand awareness of fashion trends. Wesell casual, evening, career and "wow"styling for today’s affluent consumer.Luxury fabrics, leathers and suedes,dresses, coats and accessories, too.Some travel. Websites, dvd’s, catalogs.Complete collection with a nat’l adbudget. Must have strong backgroundknowledge of construction. Leadershipskills required in a fast paced environment.References will be checked.

E-mail resume to:[email protected]

DesignerContemp. Designer House seeks :

DesignerMin. 5 yrs exp. in Women’s DesignerMarket. Must be highly creative &organized with strong tech skills.

Technical DesignerMin. 5 yrs exp. Must possess expertknowledge of Spec & Fit. Overseascomm.. w/ HK & China factories req.Knowledge of Chinese a +

Fax resume to 212 869 4043

17WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

We Put Fashion To Work.TM

Find Your Next Full-Time PositionWith the Company You Trust24 Seven works with the largest and most respected brands in the fashion andretail industries and has hundreds of positions waiting for you.

Please email or call us today! [email protected] or 212-966-4426

Apparel DesignAccessories DesignTechnical DesignGraphic Design

CAD DesignProduct DevelopmentProductionPlanning

AllocatingMerchandisingBuyingStore Planning

Visual Merchandising SalesMarketingCorporate Communications

Baccarat is a French based luxury goods company, globally recognized asthe eminent creator of luxury crystal, with a diverse product assortmentfrom traditional crystal lighting to jewelry and fashion accessories. We arecurrently looking for highly motivated individuals to join our team at theMadison Avenue, New York location.•Corporate Sales Manager Outside sales professional to prospect, develop, and manage corporateaccounts for our gifting & incentive programs. Build relationships and meetsales objectives. Excellent business-to-business proposal development & presentation skills. At least 3-5 years direct experience with successful sales record. College degree preferred. Travel is required.•Marketing, Public Relations, and Special Projects Administrator Excellent administration, organizational, and communication skills. Ability

to manage multiple projects. Strong computer skills, especially in presentation& design based programs. Supports the VP Merchandising & Marketing,with significant assistance to the PR function. At least 3-5 years direct

experience. College degree preferred/•Assistant Manager, Madison Avenue Flagship Boutique

Understands luxury retail and must possess strong brand consciousness.Ability to drive sales through the boutique and be personally successful insales. Excellent customer service skills, with demonstrated ability to clientele& build relationships. Strong in retail operations & staff training. At least

3-5 years direct experience.Please send your resumes with salary history/requirements to:

[email protected]

Ann Taylor is a premier Americanspecialty apparel retailer for theprofessional woman. Over our 50year heritage we have become awell-known resource for qualitysuits, separates, dresses, shoesand accessories with a feminine,polished approach to updated clas-sic style. Come join our PLANNINGMANAGEMENT Team!

PLANNING MANAGERSAND

MERCHANDISE PLANNERSThese exciting ANN TAYLORPlanning Management opportunitiesrequire:

• Developing planning and allocation strategy and design.• Implementing plans that support

the merchandising, marketing andfinancial objectives of the brand.

PLEASE APPLY DIRECTLY TO:www.anntaylorcareers.com

EOE

DESIGNEREst’d missy sportswear importer seeks

creative designer to work in fast pacedenvironment. Must be detail oriented,work independently & take direction

well. Technical skills & min 3 yrs. exp.req’d. Excellent oppty for the rightperson! Fax resume to: (212) 302.5184or Call Lisa: (212) 302-3744 or E-mail [email protected]

DESIGNERFast growing Infant/Layette Companyseeks a designer. Strong Adobe Illus-trator and Photoshop a must!Please fax resume to: 212-279-0131

Ann Taylor is a premier Americanspecialty apparel retailer for theprofessional woman. Over our 50year heritage we have become awell-known resource for qualitysuits, separates, dresses, shoesand accessories with a feminine,polished approach to updated clas-sic style. We are currently seekingAssistant Designers in the followingAnn Taylor LOFT specialties:

ASSISTANT DESIGNERSWOVEN TOPS, LOFT

REFINED SEPARATES, LOFTKNIT DRESSING &SLEEPWEAR, LOFT

Will assist Designer with executionof seasonal collections that maintainthe LOFT brand entity. Must havestrong sketching & illustration skills,the ability to identify color & fashiontrends and a minimum of one yearof design experience.

PLEASE APPLY DIRECTLY TO:www.anntaylorcareers.com

EOE

Designer Head $100-110K BOE. Currentexp in Jr. sportswear. Non denim +denim. Lead 2 designers/2 assistants.Bottoms driven. Must hang w/Rewind/Jolt, Jou Jou, Dollhouse, ParisBlues, Unique, etc. [email protected]

DESIGNERMajor Apparel Company has a designer

position.

JUNIOR DESIGNERSeeking fashion concious cutting edgeJunior Designer with at least 3 yearsexperience in cut-n-sew imports. Mustbe proficient in Photoshop andlllustrator. Candidate should be veryorganized;detailed oreintated, teamplayer and must have technicalknowledge.

Please forward resume to:[email protected]

Ann Taylor is a premier American specialty apparel retailer for the professionalwoman. Over our 50 year heritage we have become a well-known resource forquality suits, separates, dresses, shoes & accessories with a feminine, polishedapproach to updated classic style. COME JOIN OUR DESIGN TEAMS!

Our Designer level positions require the ability to create & execute the brandvision, strong sketching & illustration skills with 4 – 5 years design experience.

DESIGNERWOVEN TOPS, ANN TAYLOR

DESIGNERCASUAL SEPARATES & OUTERWEAR, LOFT

Please apply directly to: www.anntaylorcareers.com or forward resume &sample illustrations to: [email protected] (code: Designer).

Equal Opportunity Employer

TAYLOR HODSONFreelance and perm opps available!

Assistant DesignerTech Designers-all categories

CAD DesignersFashion Assistants- freelance

Send resumes ASAP!Email: [email protected]

www.taylorhodson.com

DESIGNERNeeded for a well est’d women’s privatelabel sportswear company. Candidatewill be responsible for all aspects ofdesign, as well as working w/ buyers inshowroom. Must be detailed oriented,organized & have excellent follow-upskills. Illustrator or Photoshop is re-quired. Must have 3-4 years experience.

Fax resume to: 212-730-2259

D E S I G N E RNYC based children’s apparel co seeksexp CAD designer with some designingbackground for team athletic sportswear.Candidate must be creative, detail-oriented,able to work well within the team & meetdeadlines. Excellent Illustrator & Photo-shop skills. Please e-mail resume to:

[email protected]

Designer-Young Men’s DenimMin 3 yrs exp w/ Yng Men’s DenimBe Proficient w/ Photo, Ill & TechShould Hang w/ Nautica, GAP, RL

Salary BOE $$$E-Mail: [email protected]

KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS

Design

Magashoni Apparel GroupACCESSORIES DESIGNER

ASST ACCESSORIES DESIGNERASSOCIATE DRESS DESIGNERPrivate label design studio seeks:

Accessories - Exp. in leather and fabrichandbags, able to shop market, designinnovative product, present to customerand follow-up with overseas production.Must know Photoshop and Illustrator.Associate Dress Designer - Must havestrong dress const. knowledge andcontemporary taste level.E-mail resumes to: [email protected]

or Fax: (212) 869-3179 after 7pm

Design Studio Director $100K++Run a Contemp Sportswear DesignStudio. Fittings, Fashion Shows,Prod’n, Patterns, [email protected] 212-947-3400

DESIGN

SWEATER DESIGNEREstablished bridge sweater companyseeking a trend driven designer with10 yrs of experience designing for majorretailers & specialty store chains, strongtechnical knowledge, exceptional skillspitching prints & developing noveltyconcepts. Please email resume & salaryrequirements to: [email protected]

Design

SWEATERS - Asst. DesignerSeeking an organized multi-tasker withthe ability to sketch and knowledge ofPhotoshop/Illustrator. E-mail resumesto: [email protected]

EDI COORDINATORMdtwn Apparel Co. seeks organized,self motivated individual to work inEDI Dept. Exp (min 1-2 yrs) with EDIcustomer/sales order processing.Responsibilities include admin EDItransmissions (850), ASN (856), Invoices(810) and Traffic/Routing (753/754).Knwldg printing UCC labels & pricetickets a must. Fax resume w/salaryreq’s in confidence to: (212) 840-8738

Erin Fetherston, an emerging designerwomen’s wear collection seeks qualifiedindividuals to assume key roles in its

new Manhattan design studio.Studio Director

Production ManagerDesign Assistant

Operations CoordinatorPlease visit our site for more info:www.erinfetherston.com/newyork

FASHION CAREER OPPORTUNITIESIleen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384

[email protected]

Fit Model/Design Asst.Leading Importer of Sweaters & Knits

has immediate opening for full timeYoung Missy Model/ Design Assistant

• Height 5’7"- 5’8"• Bust 35 1/2"

• Waist 28"• High Hip 34 1/2"

• Low Hip 38"Duties include flat sketching in

Illustrator. Must be computer literate.Great opportunity for recent graduate.

Please forward resume to:E-mail: [email protected]

or Fax: (212) 398-4350

HR Managers and Assts $45-100kPlanners - All Levels $50-95kE-commerce layouts/visual $50-60kSales assts/Acc ts Executives $40-80k

Many opportunities available for tempand temp to hire positions

"On the Marks"Email: [email protected]

18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007

* JOBS *JOBS *JOBS **Allocator- EDI-New Jersey*Artist Girls I-14 Licensing $HI*Artists Girls- Boys-Jrs. $HI*Assistant Designer Boys 4-20*Assistant Designers-entry level or lite exp*Bookkeeper Full Charge*Buyers or Assists for Planners/Analysts*CAD Designer Boy/Girl N-16*Controller- - Apparel Exp $HI*Designer-Assist-Assoc Boy-Girl-Jr.*Designer Boys 4-20 Urban*Designer Girls 4/16 Jr. Driven*Import Assistant- L/C’s-customs*Patternmaker Production-Gerber*Production mgr & coords-Biling Chinese*Production Assist or Assoc any exp*Production MGR-Assist-Coordinators-$HI*Retail/Analyst Plan K & Wal-Mart/ Target*Sales Jr. & Girls Swimwear*Technical Designers & Assistants $HI*Technical Designers- Childrens- $HICall B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127

MERCHANDISER-5+ yrs exp mdsing WWpop to mod priced handbags/coord design/construction/price pts/travel. $$ OpenLes Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870

MERCHANDISER /COORDINATOR

Succesful multi-label dress mfr seekshighly motivated individual to launchnew Bridesmaid Division. Must have3-5 years experience.

EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITY!Email resume and salary

requirements in confidence [email protected]

Merchandiser/ Designer New York Private Label SportswearImporter seeks a passionate, creativeand exp’d individual. Duties incl.analyzing market & trend, sourcingfabric, completing tech packs & followingup sampling. Strong interpersonal &communication skills are a must.

Email resumes & salary history [email protected]

Operations CoordinatorFast-growing women’s apparel coseeks indiv to manage & grow all itsback-office functions in PRODUCTIONLOGISTICS/ADMIN. Candidate mustbe analytical, detail oriented, organized& have the potential to manage a team.Account bkgr’d a PLUS. Great Salary& benefits for the right candidate.Email your resume to:

[email protected]

PATTERNMAKERHigh-end women’s designer RTWco. seeks freelance patternmaker.Fax resumes to: (212) 966-5596 or

E-mail: [email protected]

Prod’n Sourcing Mgr $75-90KBi-Ling Chinese, Supervise 2

Jeans Exp A+. Travel 2x Yr [email protected] 212-947-3400

Production AssistantContemporary Design house seeksskilled pro to handle Production Coord.Responsible for scheduling, costing,fitting, overseas communications, orderplacing & tracking. Strong computerand technical skills preferred.

Fax resume to 212 869 4043

Production AssistantLuxury company based in Soho seeksexperienced individual with strongfollow-through & organizational skills.Responsibilities include tracking, dailycontact with factories, fabric orders,and clearly communicating all details.

Please fax resumes to 212-965-8071or E-mail: [email protected]

Production AssociateInt’l Textile Co. seeks highly motivateddetail oriented person to track goodsfrom order placement to delivery. Dailycommunication w/ overseas suppliers.Computer literate, good follow-up skills.Knowledge of textiles a +. Challengingsupport position in a friendly busy workenvironment. Company paid benefits.

Please fax resume: 212-209-4406

PRODUCTION ASSOCIATESWEATERS

Leading apparel company seeks highlymotivated person to track goods fromorder placement to delivery. 3 - 5 yrsproduction exp. req with strong followup skills. Candidate must be detailoriented, ability to multi task, articulate,and able to communicate with w/overseas office and suppliers on adaily basis. Outlook & Excel exp a must. Please fax or e-mail resume & salaryrequirements to:[email protected]

or 212-944-8409 attn: HR212

PRODUCTION

Asst. Production Mgr.Well established women’s dress mfr.

looking for individual with min. 5 yearsexperience in import production. Mustbe computer proficient, very organized,and have strong communication skills.

Fax resume to HR: (212) 898-1211

PRODUCTION MANAGERLeading Home Textile firm in SoHo isseeking for exceptionally organized andmeticulous indiv to work under Directorof Production to manage production ofbedding and other home products. Pri-mary duties include: account manage-ment & pricing, managing production cy-cle with overseas factories, coordinatingproduct development with design dept..Candidate needs to be a self motivatedmulti-tasker. Must have working knowl-edge of EDI & UPC mgmt, plus techknowledge of textiles. 4+ yrs productionexp req’d. Exp w/Bed Bath Beyond, Tar-get, major dept stores & Mandarin flu-ency is ++. Immediate start and excel-lent growth opportunity in a great work-ing environment. Salary commensuratewith exp and incld full benefits. E-mailresume to: [email protected]

PRODUCTIONMANGER/COORDINATOR

Production ManagerSeeking production manager with min6-8 yrs experience in knits & sweaters.Must be extremely detail oriented &organized w/strong control of factoriesto oversee & direct all aspects ofproducation. Must manage with T&A& WIP reports. Knowledge of CM’s,Costing & Consumptions.

Production CoordinatorSeeking production coordinator w/min4-5 years of experience. Must be highlymotivated & detail oriented with excellentcomputer and communication skills.Able to handle all phases of production,T&A/WIP/L-DIPS etc. Full benefitsMedical/Dental/401K.

Email resumes [email protected]

Product Mgr. Sleepwear $125K+Buyer Knit Tops $100K+Buyer Dresses & Coats $100K+Retail Tax Manager $85K+

Send your resume in confidence to:Fax: (239) 254-8870

Email: [email protected] www.justretail.com for all open

positions.

Production ManagerEst’d. Apparel Importer seeks detailoriented, organized individual able to doeverything from start to end. Must haveoverseas/domestic production knowledgeand good communication & follow-upskills. Fax resume to: 212-398-1302

JORDACHE seeks aMENS DENIM DESIGNER Minimum 3-5 years experience, atleast 1 year in the denim market,knowledge of denim constructions& washing a must, better/ premiummens denim experience preferred,must be proficient in Illustrator &Excel. Salary commensurate withexperience.Please fax resume to 646-383-8294

and indicate code NG-0307

Aéropostale is currently lookingfor dynamic individuals to join

our Technical Design team in thefollowing positions:

TECHNICAL DESIGNERWOMEN’S WOVEN

TECHNICAL DESIGNERWOMEN’S KNITS & SWEATERS

TECHNICAL DESIGNERDENIM

ASSOCIATE TECHNICAL DESIGNERThe Technical Designer is responsiblefor working with design to interpretthe construction and fit of garmentsto ensure they meet Aéropostalestandards. You will also be responsi-ble for preparing garments for fittings,attending fit sessions, communicatingcorrections to overseas offices andvendors and approving for production.

The qualified candidate will be aflexible, organized team player with aminimum of five years of experienceat the Technical Designer level. Youmust possess a strong knowledge ingarment grading/specifications, fit &construction, fabrics & sewing opera-tions, with a strong understanding ofpattern making. Strong computerskills (Excel, Illustrator & Photoshop)are essential to success.

We offer a competitive salary com-mensurate with experience and acomprehensive benefits package.This includes bonus opportunity, agenerous merchandise discount, acasual work environment and ex-cellent growth potential.

PLEASE FAX OR E-MAIL RESUME TO: 646-452-1870 or

[email protected]

Aéropostale, is an equalopportunity employer, m/f

•SHIPPING ADMINISTRATOR: Min. 5+ years experience; international shipping & logistics background•BOOKKEEPER: Knowledge of Quick- Books mandatory, A/R, A/P, etc.•CUSTOMER SERVICE REP: Min. 3+ years experience, strong administra- tive skills, multi-tasker•ASSISTANT DESIGN: Min. 3+ years, knitwear/tech background a must•PROD’N./DEVELOPMENT: Min. 5+ years exp., strong negotiation skills.•OPERATIONS/GENERAL MANAGER: Proven track record a must!Bilingual skills ++. Must know Excel,and enjoy fast-paced environment; noturtles need apply please!

E-mail resume (name/position insubject field) to:

[email protected]

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE FASHION JEWELRY

Prestige costume jewelry companyseeking an individual to managesales to major department storeaccounts. Retail buying experienceor a strong wholesale salesbackground in either cosmetics,accessories or jewelry preferred.Work out of midtown showroom.

Please send resumes to:[email protected]

ASSOCIATE DESIGNERand DESIGNER

Multi-divisional mfr. looking for aDesigner & Associate Designer who

specialize in daytime, eveningdresses, private label developments

and licensing programs. Musthave minimum 6 years experience.

Fax resume to HR: (212) 898-1211

WWD.COMWWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28, 2007 19

Spring Stays Strong at Fall Dallas Show

DALLAS — The Dallas Market Center, parent of FashionCenterDallas, is celebrating its 50th anniversary with plans to launch Dallas International Fashion Week Oct. 20 to 26.

The event will offer the public an exclu-sive fi rst look at the newest fashions and run-way shows presented by regional, national and international fashion designers. It will be held during the women’s, children’s and accessories spring-summer 2008 market that runs Oct. 21 to 24.

The DMC, the world’s largest wholesale re-source with more than $7.5 billion in estimated wholesale transactions each year, plans to part-ner with LIVEstyle Entertainment, with offi ces in New York and Los Angeles, and Commerce House, a marketing fi rm based in Dallas, to produce what offi cials hope will be an event held each year in October and March.

‘‘This…allows participation for the public to participate directly in the drama and en-ergy of fashion markets in Dallas,” said Bill Winsor, president and chief executive offi cer of DMC.

The fashion week will include four days of designer fashion shows presented in an enclosed 50,000-square-foot fashion theater in the Grand Pavilion at the Trade Mart, also part of the DMC. The space will also feature a pre-show lounge with bar and DJ booth, plasma monitors, interactive sponsor booths and display areas. The fashion theater will have a 72-foot T-shaped runway surrounded by seating.

— Rusty Williamson

Dallas Market Center Unveils Fashion Week By Holly Haber

DALLAS — Fall was the advertised sea-son for the four-day market that ended March 21 at FashionCenterDallas, but action in spring merchandise was al-most as strong.

“All our manufacturers brought immediate goods,” said Butch Plott, owner of the Butch Plott & Co. show-room. “The buyers are waiting. We sold a lot of April and May deliveries, and we’re booking fall, as well. The attitude of the buyers has been good.”

Floaty dresses and tunics continued to be hot for spring, while fall orders turned toward jackets, particularly detailed looks and retro fl ared styles, as well as cocoon and Empire dresses, shirtdresses and intricate knitwear.

“This was a very high-energy mar-ket with a strong opening on Sunday, as buyers embraced our new apparel date pattern,” said Cindy Morris, chief operating offi cer of the Dallas Market Center, which runs FCD.

It was the second show that ran Sunday to Wednesday instead of the former Thursday-to-Sunday format.

Several sales representatives attrib-uted spotty traffi c to the market’s over-lap with spring break.

“These people have lives,” said Merle Gorman, owner of Merle Gorman & Assoc., which specializes in misses’ lines. “They’re with their families.”

Gorman banded with other show-rooms on the 14th fl oor to attract buyers by serving a hot breakfast every morning and hosting a fl oorwide party Sunday

evening with an Elvis impersonator. “We had a 15 to 20 percent increase over last year on a Sunday and that is signifi cant,” Gorman said. “People want to have fun.”

They also want to fi nd something new. For Dorothy Winston, owner of Julien’s in Uvalde, Tex., that meant novelty jackets.

“Everybody has black pants and cute jeans, so we’re showing people how you can add a new jacket and have a new outfi t,” she said.

Winston found some at Johnny Was, where she ordered a short jacket in embroidered tan corduroy. She also planned to order beaded jackets by Ivy Jane, which sold exceptionally well for her last year.

Jackets were also a priority for Joann Burnett, owner of four Joann’s misses’ stores in Houston.

“We had a great end of January and February with spring jackets,” she said. “For fall, I like the Jackie O neckline, three-quarter-sleeve fl yaway styles.”

Her favorites were Darjoni’s black ponte knit jacket with big patent leath-er buttons, and a fl ashy red-and-white polkadot lining, and Alberto Makali’s houndstooth flyaway jacket with a stand-up collar.

Burnett was disappointed with dress-es because so many styles were low-cut. “My customer is 20 to 70, but she’s more modest than that,” she said.

Mary Lou Jackson, owner of the Four Seasons shop in Dickinson, Tex., also bemoaned the lack of dresses for her clients, who are mostly 40 and over. “My customers want dresses, but they’re

all very bare on top and older women aren’t going to wear those,” she said. “I’m happy to see more tunics, because it’s more fl attering to the fi gure.”

She planned to invest in fall jackets and sportswear by Jackets Galore, Joseph Ribkoff and Sharon Young, and was pick-ing up a fl oral embroidered tunic over linen pants for spring by J. Song.

Victoria Jackson, owner of the Talula contemporary boutique in Dallas, in-creased her fall budget 10 to 15 percent since sales have risen 30 percent this year. “I thought all the little swing jack-ets were great,” she said. “I also liked the unusual novelty coats and I loved the lantern sleeve or bishop sleeve. And there’s a lot of cute plaid.”

She planned to order a plaid dress by Cynthia Steffe and novelty blouses by Marissa K, including a layered silk turquoise and chocolate fl oral print chiffon over a dotted charmeuse dress.

Sharlene Reitz and Vicki Grimm, buyers for Ah-Ha! in Marble Falls, Tex., which doubled in size in January, were shopping with a higher budget.

“Marble Falls is a resort area with new golf courses and a new Marriott [re-sort], vineyards and a lot of kids’ camps,” Grimm said. “We’re buying a little bit of fall, but it stays hot for so long that we’re buying a lot of late summer deliveries.”

The pair favored tunics, dresses, jer-sey tops and unusual knits. They picked up a white crocheted fi shtail cardigan with bell sleeves from Sisters, an ab-stract print A-line dress by Wish and XCBI’s knitted tops with ruching, stitch-ing and other details.

Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise.

Defi ning style. Delivering results.

DIRECTOR OF SHOP DESIGNEvolving from just six t-shirts & a can of spray paint, Marc EckoEnterprises has become a full-scale global fashion & lifestylecompany. We are continuously growing & looking for great talent.

The Director of Shop Design is responsible for implementingthe design of Marc Ecko Enterprises vertical retail stores, full-priceand outlets. This person will create store layouts and work witharchitects to develop construction drawings. The position requiresa solid understanding of fixture/retail design and experienceproducing store layouts and redlining plans. In addition, the idealcandidate must have solid CAD, Sketch Up and Illustratorskills as well as the ability to communicate with general con-tractors and read/understand architectural drawings.

Excellent work environment, great salaries & benefits.

www.ecko.comPlease email resume to [email protected]

Production/SourcingSaraMax Home division seeks anexp’d, aggressive indiv to be responsiblefor sourcing new factories & oversee-ing production for Big LicensedBrands to produce and source hometextile products for Kitchen and Bath.Requires travel, strong relationshipswith overseas factories in China, India,Pakistan, Egypt & Brazil. Must alsobe able to negotiate costing and befamiliar w/Quality Control req’s formajor US Retailers. Computer profi-ciency and exp in Home Textiles.

Email resume to:[email protected] EOE

Production/TrafficManager

Hbag Mfgr seeks team player w/exccommunication & organizational skills.Daily corresp w/Far East & customers.Resp incl follow up of orders,submissions, tracking shipments. Min3 years exp. E-mail res to: [email protected]

QC MGR.......................................50-75KOhio Based 5-10 yrs Woven /Apparel Exp Minard Frischer SRI Search 212-465-8300

[email protected]

Sample Development $40K+Work w/ Design Room, Fabric & TrimBuyers, Pattern Makers & Int’l Factories

[email protected] 212-947-3400

Sewing Education MgrSimplicity Pattern, Co. Inc. seeksarticulate professional with excellentwriting and presentation skills. Objec-tive is to promote and implementprograms targeting Simplicity as thekey ingredient in sewing education.Must be able to write and package sew-ing lesson plans for multi-purpose use,deliver how to sew seminars anddemonstrations at consumer shows,educational shows, media events andcreate network of contacts. BS / BADegree. Min 6+ yrs business exp insewing industry. Excellent benefits.

Send resume w/salary req to:Simplicity Attn: HR Fax: 212 683-1013

or email [email protected]

SPEC TECHFast paced, private label co., seeks ahighly motivated individual to providesketch & spec, fittings, and productionpackages for Missy Sizes. Will alsocommunicate with overseas factory’s.Bilingual Chinese a plus.

Please fax resume to: 646-562-9650

TECH DESIGN ASSISTWOVENS/CUT & SEWBetter Sportswear company seeksdetail oriented team player with excel-lent organizational and technical skills.Responsibilities include executing andsending out tech pkgs, liaison withdesign team and tech dept, dailycommunication with overseas. Must beextremely proficient with Illustrator/Photoshop and Excel.

E-mail resume to:[email protected]

Tech Designer - KnitsLeading Imptr of Sweaters & Knits,has immediate opening for Young MissyTech Designer. This is an exciting newdivision. Candidate will work togetherw/ Designer & be responsible for develop-ment & specs. Must be computer literate,be able to sketch in Illustrator, haveexcellent verbal & written communicationskills & knowledge of overseas produc-tion, garment construction & gradedspecs. Candidate will attend fittings &communicate technical changes, formu-late corrections & provide solutions tooverseas factories. 3-5 yrs. prior knitweartechnical design exp. req’d. Pls. sendresume to: [email protected] Fax: (212) 398-4350

Tech Designer & Trim CoordFast paced ladies wear mfg with greatbenefits, seeks experienced candidates.Must be Excel experts & work well un-der pressure with a sense of urgency.Tech Designer : pattern making exp,grading, strong communication skill infit corrections and technical sketch.Trim Coordinator : create trim sheets,strong follow up skills and color sense.familiar w/ labeling, packaging. privatelabel experience a plus.Please fax resume to 212-302-3872 ore-mail to [email protected]

TECHNICAL DESIGNERMajor apparel co. seeks candidate withexperience in children’s sizes boys/girls.Must have thorough knowledge of knit/woven garment construction. Exceptionalorganizational and follow up skills amust. Responsibilities include specing,grading measurements and interactionwith design & merchandising. Require-ments include ability to work in a fast-paced setting & to clearly communicatedetails to overseas factories. ExcellentExcel skills & knowledge of Illustrator. Please fax resume to: 212-656-1861

TUFI DUEKAdmin. Assistant 40KSeeking detail oriented self starter. Mustbe EDI proficient and experienced inshipping/invoicing. Growth opportunityfor candidates able to interface withclients & editors. Great environment &benefits. E-mail to: [email protected]

VISUAL MANAGER TO $75KCouture Designer Better Dept Store

[email protected]

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVEHANDBAG SALES

7th Avenue showroom sales positionavailable for experienced salesprofessional, to handle establishedmultimillion dollar specialty storeaccount base, 3-5 yrs exp., accessoriessales a plus. Competitive Salary &Benefits.

PLEASE E-MAIL RESUME WITHSALARY HISTORY TO:

[email protected]

SALES EXECUTIVE50+ year old co. seeks merchant

to sell existing products anddevelop new private label to whole-salers, mass accounts & specialty

department stores. Includesnew hot line. Base/Commission.Fax or e-mail to 718-482-0177or [email protected]

SALES EXECUTIVESEuropean High End Children’sWear Company is looking forSales Executives. Candidates mustbe responsible, reliable, energetic,and love to sell. Computer literatea must. Great benefits package.

Please e-mail resume to:[email protected]

Denim SalesPrivate label Mfr. for Men’s & Women’sseeks candidate with relationships withDept./Chain/Mass accounts. NYC based.Please Fax resumes to: 201-818-0581or E-mail: [email protected]

Handbag & Accessory SalesLooking for an experienced Sales Rep(Full Time) for a factory that manufac-tures Handbag and Accessories. Musthave 5 years exp. Call Mrs. Guzman:

(646) 478-7510

Sales Assistant Leading watch company seeks entrylevel Sales Assistant. Must be ener-getic, personable, articulate and workwell independently. Prior accessoryexperience a plus.Fax resume to: 212-889-8863 or email:

[email protected]

SALES EXECUTIVESeeking a highly motivated & energeticshowroom sales professional to join ourteam to help grow and manage ourBridesmaids account base. Candidatesmust have strong relationships withmulti-brand specialty retailers &complete knowledge of the industry.Must have 3-5 years selling experi-ence. Excellent benefits!

To apply, please email resume withthe subject header "SALES" to:[email protected]

SALES HELP WANTEDLeading embellishment company of

Embroideries, Beading, Pleating, Stitching,Bias, and much more! Please fax resume

212-971-9105 Attn: Robert Meyer

SALES REPSDesigner sportswear seeks rep with priorexp in women’s bridge sportswear. Musthave dept store & specialty store exp& contacts. Great benefits. EOEE: [email protected] F:212-695-9483

Wholesale SalesHard working, have wholesale exp. incontemporary bedding or/and homeproduct. Fax resume to: 212-625-8712.

Carlos MieleRETAIL SALES ASSOCIATE

International Couture Designer seeksexperienced Sales Professional for itsMeatpacking District Flagship Store.Professionals should have an existingclient book or background that representsexpertise with a minimum 3-5 yearsexperience, the highest standards ofcustomer service, and excellent commu-nication skills. Great opportunity forgrowth. Competitive salary & benefits.Fax resumes to: 646-336-6690 or E-mailto: [email protected]

SALES AGENTNEW YORK

Contemporary sportswear companyseeks agent well connected with dept.& specialty chains. Send resume to:

Box#M 1004c/o Fairchild Classified

750 Third Avenue, 5th FlNew York, NY 10017

ACCESSORIESSALES LEADERRelationships with all majors

Please call: (609) 315-2495

For more information on advertising, contact Jay Spaleta, publisher, at 212-630-4831, or your WWD sales representative. WWD Style Starts Here™

Issue Date: May 21Close: April 16