Seto Inland Sea Understanding Japanese

aesthetics through places where people and nature coexist

together in harmony Part 1 of 3 Jerry W. Lum

Map: The Seto Inland Sea Source: http://www.japan-guide.com/g8/5445_map_setonaikai_01.gif

Title Page Image :Setoda Port, Ikuchijima All photographic images by author unless otherwise noted.

Japan 2014: A Design Pilgrimage In Search of the Sources of Japanese Aesthetics

Preface

Throughout my travels to Japan during my summer breaks from teaching, the people, places, and culture of Japan have always inspired me as both an architect and as an insatiably curious soul. However, knowing that Japan has four distinct seasons and that the Japanese respond to each one in uniquely different ways, I chose to use my sabbatical leave as an opportunity to experience Japan in the autumn (arguably the most spectacular season of transformation in so many ways) and seek out the environmental and cultural conditions that led to the formation of Japanese aesthetics. Much of what I have discovered is through simply wandering and recording encounters with both people and places through photography and mental notes. With as little preconceptions and expectations, I tried to free myself to keenly observe and, whenever appropriate, interact to coax out the beginnings of life stories from those willing to share them with me. Of course, I am deeply indebted and immeasurably appreciative of my wife, Demi, who translated and provided invaluable guidance in this country where the language continues to be an insurmountable obstacle for me. I am sharing what I have experienced during the autumn of 2014 with the hopes that these images and what I have learned from the East will enrich the creative sensitivities of my architecture students from the West.

The subjects captured in this collection of photographs taken during my explorations in and about the Kansai and Chugoku regions of Western Japan during the autumn of 2014 are diverse in that they depict both the natural and built environments; and span the traditional and contemporary facets of this deep culture. In the past studies abroad, I spent little time outside the major cities of Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe. Although Japanese culture certainly flourishes in these vital centers of contemporary life, I also wanted to experience the Japan of the past that was intimately related to both the land and the sea. In this part of Japan visited, the Seto Inland Sea and her environs, with one foot in the past and the other in the present, provided me with an unforgettable set of insights.

A Inujima Harbor sentinel

It is from these types of places, less adulterated and affected by both the insular effects of technology and big city life – two significant forces that move us temporarily away from our otherwise intimate and dependent connections with nature – that the roots of Japanese design drew their initial inspirations.

Diverse as my photographic subjects may be, they all have one thing in common – qualities of beauty that can broaden and deepen one’s aesthetic sensitivities. This is a foundational transformation that can enhance the creative responses of any designer, particularly those in the West who may not have yet experienced the East and have a world view that believes that Man can dominate Nature through technology.

You are invited to imagine along with me how these selected examples of artifacts, architecture, and gardens of an ever-evolving culture are both utilitarian and aesthetic responses to the changing forces of nature, values, beliefs, and geopolitics that impact the Japanese people.

Imbued in these images are the Japanese aesthetic sensitivities of wa (achieving harmony in all things), sabi (savoring the ‘rust’ of age), shibui (eliminating the nonessential), ma (mixing space and time), and furyu (seeking the tasteful, elegant, and refined). Certainly, these qualities (selected from many others) are not absolute and distinct, but overlap and color the other. In almost all of these depictions, there is a palpable sense of mono no aware – that quality that wistfully touches the heart because everything is ultimately ephemeral. Japan’s seasons of spring and fall best illustrate and symbolize this phenomenon when respectively the cherry blossoms fall to earth after a few days of blooming and the leaves of deciduous trees blaze with dramatic tints before their limbs become winter bare. It is from this recognition and pragmatic acceptance of the impermanence in life that the East may be differentiated from the West.

Inujima Seirensho Art Museum with existing foundry stack

You are further challenged to find your own ways of creatively responding to the forces that surround your life using this collection of images as a springboard.

We’ll start this journey with Part I, “Seto Inland Sea” or the Setouchi, as this part of Japan is called. Then we’ll change our lens and look at select artifacts, signage, and storefronts as examples that reflect a culture. People and creatures encountered along the autumn journey are the focus of yet another lens.

Image to the right: Reflecting pool atop the Inujima Seirensho Art Museum

In Part II, “Kyoto & Inland Sea Towns”, The City of Ten Thousand Shrines – as Kyoto is also known – along with the towns of Kurashiki, Okayama, Bizen, Hiroshima, Takamatsu, and Kobe are captured in what I hope are visually poetic ways that emphasize Japanese aesthetic sensitivities.

Lastly in Part III, “Japanese Cuisine”, we end with a small, but tantalizing array of food images, another display of Japanese aesthetic values. In some cases, the environments in which they were encountered (and enjoyed) are depicted. They are gleaned from the small “mom and pop” restaurants and izakayas to the cafes and tea salons where so many find a welcomed reprieve from the ongoing pressures of life; and onwards to the colorful and bustling basement level floors of department stores dedicated entirely to the world of food.

I hope that you are profoundly moved as I am by the diverse manifestations of beauty portrayed; and if so, perhaps some day, you will take a journey or two to find your own beautiful Japan.

Seto Inland Sea: Inujima Seirensho Art Museum  

Inujima: S-Art House (left image); and A-Art House (right image) – both by Haruka Kojin

Previous page, this page, and the next: Views along the Art House Path, Inujima

Naoshima: Benesse House Resort & Museum

Naoshima: View on the grounds of the Benesse House Resort & Museum

Naoshima: Kusama Yayoi’s “Yellow Pumpkin” greets those on their way to the Benesse House Resort & Museum

Sunset on Naoshima

Boarding the ferry at Naoshima Port

Typical scene on the Seto Inland Sea

Rice terraces on Teshima

Road side orange stand – take what you want and leave payment in the tin box to the right on the honor system!

Teshima: Harvested rice fields

Harvested rice on Teshima’s satoyama, where Man and Nature live in harmony

One of the few remaining industrial facilities on Teshima where like so many islands of the Seto

Inland Sea, the population is aging and

on the decline

The sun sets behind Naoshima as seen from the ferry from Teshima to Uno Ports

Miyajima’s famed Otorii

Miyajima’s goju no to, or five-storied pagoda

Miyajima’s Momijidani Park in autumn

The Seto Inland Sea as seen from Miyajima

The Seto Inland Sea as seen from atop Mt. Misen

A small shrine encountered on Miyajima

View along the coastal walk in Motoujina National Park, Hiroshima

Harbor scene at Hiroshima Port

Onomichi portside view

Onomichi hillside view of the port below

Along the Path of Literature in the Onomichi hillside community

The beauty of withering life – mono no aware in Onomichi

From Onomichi’s hillside a view of the Seto Inland Sea and the island Mukaijima

Mukaijima’s waterways as seen from the hillside of Onomichi

Another manifestation of mono no aware and sabi or the ‘rust of age’ as seen in

Senkoji Park, Onomichi

Two views of an Onomichi sunset: portside and town-side

On the Shimanami Kaido from Mukaishima to Innoshima

View of Setoda Port on Ikuchijima

Two views of an autumn sunset at Setoda Port, Ikuchijima

Angel Road appears during low tide and provides access from Shodoshima to the isle of Bentenjima

Temple gates found exploring the meiro no machi or the town of mazes in Shodoshima

The morning sun lightly bathes the town of Tonosho on Shodoshima

The Marukin Soy Sauce Factory in Shodoshima has the Seto Inland Sea as its backyard

The Marukin Soy Sauce Factory wears its ‘rust of age’ with pride.

The shadows brushed upon the wall surfaces of the Nouma Neighborhood in Shodoshima are imbued with the delicate calligraphic qualities of kasure

Many soy sauce factories populate the Umaki neighborhood of Shodoshima

Artifacts Material manifestations of

Japanese culture

One of hundreds, this bib adorned Jizo looks after children who have died and insures that they will have food in the afterlife. This and the image before are taken in the Kiyomizu District of Kyoto

Jizo or guardians of women, children, and travelers populate the grounds of Kyoto’s Rokkaku-do, the birthplace of Ikebana (flower arranging).

A seated Jizo adorned with a newly placed handkerchief guards travelers along the Temple Walk in Onomichi

A tiny Jizo with clasped hands guards travelers strolling the coastal trail of the

Motoujina National Park in Hiroshima. In return for the god’s protection, locals

reciprocate with articles of clothing.

Left: Shoki guards against evil atop the roof of this machiya in Sannenzaka in the Kiyomizu District of Kyoto. Right: A Japanese racoon-dog or Tanuki brings good fortune to those who stay at this Kiyomizu District inn.

A temizu basin for washing hands before visiting a shrine in the Kiyomizu District of Kyoto is essential for performing Omairi,

praying to the Shinto gods.

Collectible pottery, each with their own handcrafted box sits outside a shop in Kyoto’s Pottery Village or Kiyomizuyaki no Sato

Mr. & Mrs. Shibata, both dedicated and accomplished potters, display their wares for sale at the Kohoichi Market held on the 21st of every month at the Toji Temple in Kyoto.

Representative creations from the Shibata Studio inspired by nature

Bonsai for sale at the Toji Temple’s Kohoichi Market in Kyoto

A potted flower arrangement greets patrons at this Bikan District shop in Kurashiki

A gourd inspired light fixture hangs outside this residence in Arashiyama, Kyoto

A kettle hangs from the jizaikagi (pot hook) over the traditional irori (sunken hearth) in this family residence in Shikoku Mura,Takamatsu

Artisan crafted wares are displayed in the window of Kichikudo, a bamboo shop on Oshibekoji-dori, Kyoto

A vessel crafted from bamboo asymmetrically reflects its natural essence

The epitome of Kawaii (cuteness), this gacha-gacha (toy vending machine)

beckons children in front of this store on Inujima in the Seto Inland Sea

Left: Shimekazari, or entrance decoration welcomes happiness into this Gion District residence in Kyoto. Right: A hand crafted basket lends its personality to the front of another Gion machiya

Signage Reflections of cultural values

A teapot sign hangs outside of a tea shop in the Bikan District of Kurashiki

A noren (shop curtain) is hung to let everyone know that this Japanese sweet shop across from Nijo Castle in Kyoto is open for business

This sign for a dental clinic on Nishikikoji-dori in Kyoto displays its unique and lively charm

Signage for Yubasen, a shop and restaurant serving tofu curd based cuisine on Kiyomizugojo-dori (left); and one for Hinoko, a specialized shop selling charcoal on Teramachi-dori (right), both in Kyoto.

Fruit adorn this patisserie shop sign on Teramachi-dori, Kyoto

This contemporary beacon leads everyone at night to the Kyoto Art Center on Muromachi-dori in Kyoto

The gourd, a traditional vessel used by travelers to carry their favorite intoxicant

imparts a bit of nostalgia to this bar on Teramachi-dori in Kyoto

The autumn leaves of momiji (Japanese maple trees) celebrate the beauty of this season on sake bottles displayed in this shop on Teramachi-dori in Kyoto

Nothing is wasted from this shop sign for the Takiguchi Pottery Gallery on Teramachi-dori, Kyoto

French charm, Japanese style, embraced by this bistro on Nijo-dori in Kyoto

The ‘rust of age’ or Sabi is proudly displayed on this Bizen tiled wall in the pottery town of Inbe

Storefronts The face of cultural values

Kichikudo, a shop in a machiya specializing in bamboo products on Oshibekoji-dori, Kyoto

This sweet shop, Sanjo Wakase-ya greets the public at the mouth of Sanjo Market, which is a neighborhood covered shopping arcade located at the west end of Sanjo-dori.

Sanjo Wakase-ya belongs to the Wakase family

Western influences are seen in these diamond patterned window frames adorning this machiya on Higashinotoin-dori, Kyoto.

Living Gallery brightens up this machiya at the intersection of Anekoji- and Takakura-dori, Kyoto

Left: Bantera Bamboo Shop on Teramachi-dori, Kyoto Right top: Pottery Shop in Inbe Pottery Town

Right bottom: Junko’s Toy Clinic in the Bikan District of Kurashiki

In downtown Okayama, this seafood izakaya beckons hungry diners.

Sekaiya adds sophisticated and contemporary notes to Kyoto’s nightlife

In this renovated machiya, Restaurant Shin occupies the left half And a private residence the right on Teramachi-dori, Kyoto

Art Space Meisei is located in this contemporary Teramachi-dori storefront in Kyoto

Artists can rent out this gallery space on Teramachi-dori in Kyoto to exhibit their work

Hidden away down a narrow alley on Oshibekoji-dori next to

Sarasa Café one can find this jewel of a patisserie and café with a quiet

garden dining spot

Along the quiet neighborhood street of Nijo-dori, one can find this charming French-inspired bistro

A contemporary Kyoto storefront inspired by traditional Japanese architecture showcases sophisticated obi and other kimono related accessories for those who embrace traditions.

For the hip Kyoto-ites, 45 rpm on Sanjo-dori specializes in Japanese denim and related fashion items

Antico Naturale reflects the international flavor of the Kitano District in Kobe

Just off of the main street in the Kitano District of Kobe is yet another international flavored café, Sao Paulo

Denizens of the Japanese Archipelago The people and other creatures impacting and transforming culture

Seen at a monthly held Toji Temple Kohoichi Market in Kyoto

Images this page clockwise:

Kumi-san at Maru5Deli, Okayama Mari-san at the Takamatsu Tourist Information Center Minami-san, Minami Coffee, Takamatsu Eritate-san, designer and proprietor at Eritate Hat Shop, Kuroshiki

Images previous page clockwise:

Tamagaki-san, artist, at the Email Café, Miyajima Oba-san serving tea at her sweet shop, Choedo, on Shodoshima Fisherman on his way home to Uno Negotiating the hillside paths of Onomichi Chance meeting at Teshima Port Miyashita-san, one of the last traditional rice farmers on Teshima

Kodawari is the Japanese word for an uncompromising and relentless devotion to a

pursuit, whether it is the desire to make a better oban manju; or to throw a better vase;

or to render in tempera something seething within; or to fire a better piece of pottery

from the fires of a Bizen kiln. Clockwise:; Oban manju being made at Choedo, a sweet shop on Shodoshima;

Asakura Noriyuki, Kiyomizu; Tamagaki-san, artist, Miyajima; Kido-san, pottery master at

Sanrokugama, Bizen

Roasted chestnuts, a traditional autumn treat, are just removed from this street-side roaster on Sando, Miyajima. Don’t touch or you’ll get burned!

Vendor grilling oysters on the busy Sando, the street leading to the UNESCO World

Heritage Site, Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima.

Because this street is lined on both sides with eateries and shops, many don’t make

their way to this shrine, designed in the 12th century, that helped make this

Seto Inland Sea island famous.

At this manju shop on Sando, Miyajima, this employee cannot keep up with the heavy demand for its famous Japanese confection shaped as a momiji, or Japanese maple leaf.

The momiji trees on this island are glorious in autumn.

Children on field trips and tourists alike visiting Miyajima head first for the island’s famed momiji manju before heading off to the legendary Itsukushima Shinto Shrine at the end of Sando.

“Never mind the shrines, we want agemanju!” School boys on their field trip wait anxiously for their deep-fried Japanese confection served on a stick at yet another Sando shop on Miyajima.

The many faces of Kurashiki

Clockwise: Cosplayers explore

the streets of Kurashiki’s Bikan

District. Saya-chan & a co-

worker serve up delicious meals at the Lidem Kurashiki Café.

Another cosplayer adjusts her bow and

arrow. Oba-san tends to

business in her Bikan District shop.

Junko Sumiya-san and her husband and dog, Ran (orchid), pose at their Toy Clinic cum residence in Kurashiki’s Bikan District

Accidental but happy and memorable encounters, clockwise: on board the boat back from Teshima to Uno Port; Teshima rice farmer, Miyashita Kunio; Yamato-san at the Mt.Hiei trailhead, Kyoto; Yukiko & Hatsue Hayashi from

Osaka aboard the Arashiyama’s Torokko scenic train ride; Kasai-san with a heart of gold works the Teshima Port; and Kizaki-san from the Bantera Bamboo Shop on Teramachi-dori, Kyoto knows everything about bamboo and tea.

Enomoto-san always wanted to own his own ramen shop. His dream came true. Here he is at his Onomichi Ramen Kukai on his way out to run an errand. Notice the fishing rods set beside the back door, which leads directly out to the waterways of the Seto Inland Sea. In off hours, he pursues his other passion, fishing.

Clockwise: Regulars at the counter enjoying the udon, a specialty of

Kawafuku, this Takamatsu institution; Miyamoto-san, one of the teppanyaki

chefs at the Nikko Hotel in Himeji, is masterful at the iron griddle; At Café

Nogami, an English inspired haunt for locals in Okayama, Mamasan readies her carefully selected imported bone

china, in which to serve her siphon coffee; At bf109 Hamburg Café, which takes it name from the famed German

WWII fighter plane, Kiyoshi-san explains his passion for both imports

from Germany.

There are two reasons to return again and again to this Takashimaya family restaurant located on the top floor of this Okayama department store: one is the food which is eclectic and always delicious; and the other is Monden-san, who is absolutely a delightful fellow human being.

These are the faces of Japan’s renown service industry.

Clockwise: Receptionist at Befine

Hair Salon in Kyoto; Sales representative

for Hokkaido milk softies at a Tenmaya

Department Store sponsored food fair;

Asakura-san is her husband’s muse and is

the inspiration behind his ceramic creations displayed here at an

annual Kiyomizu Pottery Village fair in

Kyoto; A Hokkaido Cowkey’s Cookie

representative offers a taste of their delicious

baked goods; Takahara-san and

Masako-san dispense genuine warmth and kind heartedness at Tenmaya’s luggage

department in Okayama.

No matter where we are, people in the travel service industry are all helpful and courteous…you just have to engage with polite respect. Clockwise: Aboard the Hiroden bound for Miyajima-guchi port, Hiroshima; Station master at the Bizen Katagami Station; Buying roundtrip discount train tickets from Kobe to Himeji; Aboard the newest addition to the Okayama Electric Tramway

Inevitably, the train ride to and fro lulls everyone into slumber as represented in these passengers on the Hankyu Line in

transit from the Karasuma Station in Kyoto to the Osaka Station

Whether queuing up for the train or anything else in Japan, civility and respect

for others can be expected just as one can expect the trains to run on time

Embodied in this Nouma neighborhood toddler on the Seto Inland Sea’s island of Shodoshima are the tranquil beauty and cultural heritage of the Land of the Rising Sun.