SERAT KAPAS

• The most important natural textile fiber• Worldwide about 40% consumed in 2004• Grown for fiber but is also a food crop

(cottonseed) used for vegetable oil, whole seed, meal, and hulls for animal feed

• Seed hairs from plants of the order Malvales, family Malvaceae, genus Gossypium

COTTON PRODUCER COUNTRIES

PRODUKSI KAPAS DUNIA

0

20000

40000

60000

80000

2000 2001 2002 2003 2004

mill

ion

lbs

KapasBuatan

WHY COTTON?

• Inherently strong• Withstand repeated washing and laundering• Dimensionally stable• Can be dyed easily with a wide range of colors• Withstand moderate heat• Cool in hot wheather• No static electricity problem

USES

Apparel

• Jeans• Men’s and

boy’s shirts• Men’s and

boy’s underwear

Home furnishings

• Towels• Sheets• Pillowcases

Industrial

• Tarpaulins• Bookbinding• Zipper tape

BIOTECH COTTON• Genetically engineered cotton by recombinant DNA technology

• Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)

– d-endotoxin

– Biological insecticide

• Insect resistance, herbicide tolerance

• Benefits: reduced pesticide use, improved crop management effectiveness, reduced production costs, improved yield and profitability, reduction in farming risk, improved opportunity to grow cotton in areas of severe pest infestation.

• Potential risk: resistance, the emergence of secondary pests

ORGANIC COTTON

• Grown without use of synthetic compound• Produced to maintain soil fertility and

ecological environment of the crop• Turkey, US, India: 75% organic cotton

PERTUMBUHAN KAPAS

500,000 FIBERS/BOLL100 BOLLS/PLANT

JENIS KAPASSpecies Commercial varieties Producing Countries Length

FinenessUses/Remarks

G.hirsutum American Upland90% world prod.

USA 22-36 mm3.8-5.0

Apparel, home furnishing, industrial products

G. barbadense ELS, Egyptian, American-Egyptian, Sea Island, Pima.8% world prod.

Egypt, Sudan 33-36 mm< 4.0

High-quality apparel, specialty yarns for lace and knitted goods.

G. arboreumG. Herbaceum

Desi Pakistan, India, Burma, Bangladesh, Thailand, Vietnam

9.5-19 mm> 6.0

KOMPOSISI KIMIA

n-1

MORFOLOGI

CHEMICAL STRUCTURE & REACTIVITY

2-OH > 6-OH >> 3-OH

DP > 20.000BM 3240000 Da

SIFAT-SIFAT KIMIA

• Terhidrolisa dalam asam kuat sehingga kekuatannya turun

• Oksidator (misalnya bleaching agent) berlebih menghasilkan oksiselulosa kerusakan serat

• Menggembung dalam larutan alkali proses merserisasi untuk meningkatkan kilau dan daya serap serat terhadap zat warna.

SIFAT-SIFAT FISIK

• Warna kapas agak sedikit krem perlu proses pengelantangan (bleaching) untuk kain putih

• Kekuatan 2-3 g/denier, meningkat 10% ketika basah

• Mulur 4-13%, rata-rata 7%• MR 7-8,5%• Mudah kusut

FUTURE TREND?

• Future demand remains high, albeit at slower rate than synthetic fibers

• Quality improvement continues– Biotech cotton– Organic cotton