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POINT ALLOCATION BASED QUALITY CONTROL AND DEFECT ANALYSIS IN SEWING SECTION OF A WOVEN FACTORY OF...
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Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
POINT ALLOCATION BASED QUALITY CONTROL AND DEFECT
ANALYSIS IN SEWING SECTION OF A WOVEN FACTORY OF
BANGLADESH FOR SHIRT MANUFACTURING
Md. Noman Hossain Chowdhury 1, Shabab Al Haque
2
1Assistant Professor, State University of Bangladesh (SUB),
2 Industrial Analyst, [email protected]
Abstract
Since inception from 1970, Bangladesh’s garments export industry showed consistent growth and has become one of
the driving forces of the country’s economy. To sustain this position in global competitive environment, improving
and maintaining of quality is indispensible. Defects in products challenge the value creation process of any assembly
line of a factory. Garment manufacturing is no exception. Having an efficient quality control practice ensures fewer
defective garments products and reduced wastage of resources expensed for re-works. This paper suggests point
allocation based quality control method over other methods and presents a comprehensive study on types and
frequencies of defects that occur in shirt manufacturing process the objective of which is to provide management with
an insight regarding the nature of defects mostly experienced by workers. This would eventually help management in
planning for defect-detection training and would provide clearer picture regarding scope and priorities of quality
control training programs.
Key Words: Garments, Defects’ Analysis, Point Allocation System, Quality control, Woven, Shirt manufacturing
1 INTRODUCTION
Thanks to many macroeconomic factors, Bangladesh has placed itself as one of the leaders in
garments domain in the world. Since the inception of its garments export industry in the late
1970s, its RMG export levels grew steadily and has become a top with around USD 15 billion
in export value in calendar year 2010. With 12 percent annual growth rate clothing exports are
the key driving force behind GDP development (7% CAGR from 1995-2010) [1]
.
In order to sustain this position in global competitive environment, improving and
maintaining of quality is indispensible. Improved quality accounts for customer satisfaction
and consistent customer demand.
Every assembly operation in an apparel floor adds value. Defects in products challenge this
value creation process. Having an efficient quality control practice in place and efficient
detection of defects in products ensures fewer defective garments products and reduced
wastage of resources expensed for re-works.
This paper presents study on a renowned garments factory’s sewing section. This study tries
to conduct a comparative analysis over different quality control approaches with respect to
level of motivation they create among workers, resource cost involved with each of the
approaches. The study also conducted a comprehensive study on types and frequencies of
defects that occurs in shirt manufacturing process in order to provide management with an
insight regarding the nature of defects mostly experienced by workers. This would eventually
help management in planning for defect-detection training and would provide clearer picture
regarding scope and priorities of quality control training programs.
1.1 Problem Definition and Methodology
As stated in the preceding chapter, the objectives of this study are as follows:
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
1. Suggesting Point Allocation System (PAS) in place of existing quality control
approaches.
2. Analysis to find out the most defect-prone operations in a typical shirt Manufacturing
assembly line.
3. Pareto analysis of different types of defects in order to find out the most frequent
defects in each of the most defect-prone operations.
Defect-data for 6 months of a year related to shirt manufacturing was collected from the
apparel manufacturing plant.
2 LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Quality Control
In every industry, quality of product is of great importance. Garments industry is of no
exception. To be precise, in present days of cut-throat competition and globalization, quality
control for garments industry has got immense attention. Economy of Bangladesh largely
depends on the garments industry. So, producing of quality products should be our topmost
concern in order to remain in the competition. Quality retains the customers and increases
profit margin as well. Customers all over the world have become so demanding for good
quality goods that, quality is no longer a competitive advantage, but it is becoming a sheer
necessity to survive in the marketplace. Therefore, quality has to be designed and built into
products[2]
and not just “inspected” into products.
2.2 What is quality?
It is the goodness or badness in a product. This definition holds true till this date. However,
in general terms, quality encompasses important characteristics of a product for which, it
is in demand[3]
. Quality is also referred to as “conformance to requirements"[4]
. ISO 9000:
2000 defines quality as “degree to which a set of inherent characteristics fulfill
requirements”[5]
.
Some of the other ways of definition of quality includes but not limited to:
1. "A combination of quantitative and qualitative perspectives for which each person has
his or her own definition; examples of which include, "Meeting the requirements and
expectations in service or product that were committed to" and "Pursuit of optimal
solutions contributing to confirmed successes, fulfilling accountabilities". In technical
usage, quality can have two meanings:
a. The characteristics of a product or service that bear on its ability to satisfy stated or
implied needs;
b. A product or service free of deficiencies."[6]
2. "Quality combines people power and process power."[7]
3. Deming concentrating on "the efficient production of the quality that the market
expects,"[8]
and he linked quality and management: "Costs go down and productivity
goes up as improvement of quality is accomplished by better management of design,
engineering, testing and by improvement of processes."[9]
4. "Quality in a product or service is not what the supplier puts in. It is what the
customer gets out and is willing to pay for."[10]
5. According to Juran: "Fitness for use."[11]
Fitness is defined by the customer.
6. "Uniformity around a target value."[12]
It is hard to quantify quality in absolute terms, rather can only be judged in terms of standards
or quality benchmarks.
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
There are numerous factors that need to be considered while defining quality of a product.
Appearance, design, measurements, safety, relevance, price etc. are some quality factors.
There are some other factors which are related to processes as well. Man, Machine, Material,
Method and Money (i.e 5M) addresses quality of processes.
2.3 Inspection
Inspection routines must be operated to check whether an item or operation meets the specific
range of acceptable quality. The ultimate goal of inspection is to find out the faults in the
earliest phases possible.
In garments industry, inspection is mainly performed in three stages:
(i) Inspection of raw materials
(ii) In-line inspection
(iii) End-line inspection
On reception of raw materials like fabric, zipper, labels, thread etc. from vendors, this first
phase of inspection is conducted. In-line inspection is in-process inspection and done while
the process is on or during intervals of consecutive processes. Traffic Light System, an in-line
inspection process is becoming popular over the last few years. End line inspection is
conducted at the end of processes focusing on overall inspection for all types of faults. In the
following chapters some of the inspection methods are discussed.
2.4 Four-Point System
Four-point system is related to Fabric inspection. As soon as the vendor supplies fabric, the
role of fabric is unwinded and passed over a special inspection table and then two inspectors
inspect the fabric.
2.5 Traffic Light System (TLS)
Traffic Light System (TLS), a statistical approach, is widely used in in-line inspection. If
appropriately implemented, TLS creates motivation or quality awareness among the workers.
In this system, each operator is given a job card with quality points. A TLS job card is shown
in Table 2-1.
Table 2-1: TLS Job Card
In this factory where the study was conducted, a Quality Control Inspector (QCI)
takes 7 pieces of sample from a bundle and checks those pieces. If there found a
single defect, the operator is penalized with a red or yellow mark on the TLS Card.
This way, each operator is checked 4 times a day - 2 times at AM and 2 times at PM.
For an error-prone worker, the frequency may be higher (that's why there are 4 boxes
instead of 2 for each of AM and PM in the TLS Card).
Evaluation of a worker in the TLS is done in the following ways:
If the current grade is Green, next fault would cause it to be Yellow, otherwise
the code would remain Green.
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
If the current grade is Yellow, next fault would cause it to be Red, otherwise
the code would remain Yellow.
If the current grade is Red, next ‘no-fault’ would make it Yellow and next 3
‘no-fault’ would yield it to Green. Any single fault in the next 3 samples
would yield it to Red again.
After one month, the performance would easily be evaluated. More red marks
definitely mean bad performance.
TLS has some demerits. It has tendency to evaluate tough-job-operators poorly while
awarding easy-job operators. Uniform sampling from all the operations should yield
better results.
2.6 Acceptance Sampling
Before the shipment of finished garments, it is necessary (for the buyer/consumer) to
inspect the lot. The objective of this inspection is to find out whether to accept the lot
or reject it. Accepting a lot without inspection is unusual in garments industry. On the
other hand, sometimes it involves 100% inspection where every single item is
inspected. Though 100% inspection naturally means high quality, at the same time, it
involves cost and time.
Acceptance sampling method is a very popular and widely accepted method in
inspection. This method decides sample sizes and criteria for accepting or rejecting
the lot in statistical method. In acceptance sampling, a sample is taken from the lot,
and some quality characteristics of the units in the sample are inspected. Then, a
decision is made regarding lot disposition. Usually the decision is either to accept or
to reject the lot.
Some aspects of acceptance sampling are needed to be kept in mind. Its purpose is to
'sentence' lots, not to estimate the lot quality. Most acceptance sampling plans are not
designed for estimation purpose. Again acceptance sampling plans do not provide any
direct form of quality control. Acceptance sampling simply accepts or rejects lots.
Even if all lots are of same quality, sampling may accept some lots and reject others.
This is unlike process controls which are used to control and systematically improve
quality.
In comparison to 100% inspection, acceptance sampling has some advantages. It is
usually less expensive and involves less handling of the products. Fewer personnel are
involved in inspection activities. It often reduces the amount of errors in inspection.
Sometimes the rejection of entire lots as opposed to the simple return of defectives
often provides a stronger motivation to the vendor for quality improvements.
There are some disadvantages of acceptance sampling, as well. There are risks of
accepting ‘bad’ lots and rejecting "good" lots. Less information is usually generated
about the product or about the process that manufactured the product. Acceptance
sampling requires planning and documentation of the acceptance sampling procedures
whereas 100% inspection does not require this.
2.7 Types of Sampling Plans
There are number of different ways to classify acceptance sampling plans. One major
classification is by attributes and variables. Variables, of course, are quality
characteristics that are measured on a numerical scale. Attributes are quality
characteristics that are expressed on a "go, no-go" basis.
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
Sampling plans can also be classified on how many samples are to be taken from the
lot. Thus, sampling plans can be classified as - single sampling plan, double sampling
plan and multi-sampling plan. Multi-sampling plan is not used commonly in the
garments industry.
A single sampling plan is a lot-sentencing procedure in which one sample of n units
is selected at random from the lot, and the disposition of the lot is determined based
on that sample. For example, a single-sampling plan for attributes would consist of a
sample sized n and an acceptance number c. If there are c or fewer defectives in the
sample, accept the lot, and if defective items in that sample are more than c, then
reject the lot.
Double-sampling plans are somewhat more complicated. Following an initial
sample, a decision based on the information in that sample is made either to accept or
reject the lot or take a second sample. If the second sample is taken, the information
from both the first and the second sample is combined in order to reach a decision
whether to accept or reject the lot.
A multiple-sampling plan is an extension of the double-sampling concept, where
more than two samples may be required in order to reach a decision regarding the
disposition of the lot. Sample sizes in multiple sampling ate usually smaller than they
are in either single or double sampling.
The ultimate extension of multiple sampling is sequential sampling, in which units are
selected from the lot one at a time, and following inspection of each unit, a decision is
made either to accept the lot, reject the lot, or select another unit.
3 PROJECT WORK
On completion of the study on all the process and quality control system in the sewing
section of a shirt manufacturing floor, we have proposed Point Allocation System
(PAS) based quality control. The Sewing Section addressed in this study uses Traffic
Light System (TLS). For an effective PAS in practice, workers need to be trained in
defects’ checking. As the number and types of defects found in a sewing section is
quite large, management can opt for staring with the most frequent defects. For this a
comprehensive study has been conducted on 6 months’ data on defect types. After
analysis, this paper lists the operations in a sewing section that are the most defect
prone as far as Average Defect Rates (ADR) are concerned. Then this paper puts light
on those most defect-prone operations in order to list the defect types that are most
frequent.
3.1 Point Allocation System (PAS)
In the proposed method, Point Allocation System (PAS), workers themselves will be
considered as quality controllers. They will evaluate their own work and will make
sure that they produce defect-free products. Eventually, they would act more carefully
and would be trained for having clearer picture regarding specifications and necessary
treatments for each fault.
The required training and awareness will be provided to the workers. Special care
would be taken for tougher job operators so that their defect-rate reaches close to that
of easy-job workers. They should attain the capability of understanding requirements
merely by observing the sample and specifications hanged in the line.
For this, Quality Circles may be introduced. Each Quality Circle will include
operators of similar type of jobs led by the most skilled and experienced operator or
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
even by a production supervisor. Members of the Quality Circles will sit once in a
week to discuss their jobs, problems faced as well as share the solutions with
management. Every meeting should have tangible outcome with problems defined
and solutions proposed. Provision might be introduced for rewarding the best
effective or creative solution.
Thus required number of Quality Control Inspectors (QCI) and Supervisors would
become less. The floor supervisor will act like a floating Quality Controller and look
after all the line activities and the operators will consult with him as soon as they find
any problem. Each of the workers will be provided with a PAS Card (Figure 3-1).
Also, the Quality Supervisor will bear some tokens.
Figure 3-1: PAS Card
The Application of the PAS Card will be as follows:
A worker/operator will notify Quality Supervisor as soon as he/she finds a
fault in items in hand passed to him/her from another operator. The Supervisor
will give him one token.
Then, Supervisor will find out the operator/worker who is accountable for the
fault. On the PAS Card of that operator/worker, under the column 'Number of
Faults Committed', the Supervisor will mark a circle.
At the final hour of the day-work, the Supervisor will visit those who have
received token(s). Now, under the column 'Faults Found', he will mention the
number of token(s) received by the operator and give an initial.
After one month, total 'Number of Faults Committed' and total 'Faults Found'
will be calculated. Now total 'Faults Found' will be subtracted from total
'Number of Faults Committed' and the result will be considered as the 'Net
Faults'.
The operator with the least 'Net Faults' will be awarded with incentives.
3.2 Advantages of PAS
As in this system, the workers are allowed to compensate their 'Number of
Faults Committed' by finding faults committed by others. So, the workers
would be motivated to give more concentration so that others get less number
of faults in there works. Also, as they will try to compensate their number of
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
faults by finding faults committed by others, there will be less chance for a
defective item to pass out.
Every worker now plays a role of quality checker, which will be a motivating
factor for the workers.
There will be significant cost savings due to decrease of number of Quality
Inspectors.
3.3 Finding Critical Operations
Sewing Section is divided into two main sections according to functionalities: Make
Section and Body Section. Make Section is responsible for producing collar and cuff
while the Body Section assembles the collar and cuff with the main body and sleeve
of the shirts. Different parts of a shirt are demonstrated in Figure 3-2.
Figure 3-2: Different parts of Shirt
Operations involved in Make Section for an ideal Collar and Cuff as well as Body
section of a shirt are provided as flowcharts in Figure 3-3, 3-4 and 3-5.
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Pocket Rolling
Pocket Pressing
Front Placket (at
upper front)
Pocket Attach (at
upper front)
Back Tuck + Care
Label Attach
Main Label Attach
(at Yoke)
Back Yoke Joint
Back Top Stitch
Lower Front
Rolling
Front/Shoulder
Joint Placket Attach
Sleeve
Sleeve Joint
Arm Hole Top
Stitch
Side Seam
Collar Mark
Cuff Mark +
Sleeve Mark
Collar Joint
Cuff Attach
Collar Top Stitch
Bottom Hem
Hole Stitch
Button Attach
Thread Cutting
Gambol Cut
Gambol Tuck
Gambol Joint
Figure 3-3: Process Flowchart of a Make section
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Lining
Ironing
Fusing
Collar sewing
Collar turning
Forming
Collar top Stitch
Collar Bottom
Cutting
Band interlining
Band fusing
Band rolling
Collar band join
Collar band top
stitch
Collar band bottom
Cutting
Figure 3-4: Process flowchart for making Collar
Cuff lining
Cuff fusing
Cuff Rolling
Cuff sewing(&
Inlay cutting
Cuff top Stitch
Hole Stitch
Button Attach
Figure 3-5: Process flowchart for making Cuff
At the end of every month, the TLS Card for every operator is evaluated and the
Average Defective Percentage (ADP) is calculated. ADP is calculated with the
following formula:
ADP = ( # of defectives found / Total # of units inspected) X 100 %
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
ADPs are used to find out critical operations with high defect rates. Operations having
Average ADPs below 3% are usually considered as satisfactory. Our study shows
that, the critical operations having Average ADPs above 3% are as follows:
Collar Band Joint - 3.44%
Front Placket-3.83%
Main Label -3.37%
Pocket Attach - 5.53%
Placket Attach Sleeve – 5.79%
Sleeve Joint - 6.12%
Arm-hole Top Stitch -7.16%
Side-Seam - 7.96%
Collar Joint – 7.17%
Cuff Attach - 8.43%
Collar Joint Top Stitch - 5.99%
Bottom Hem - 7.07%
3.4 Study and analysis of Most Frequent Defects
Now, the critical and fault-prone operations are sorted out, the training program
should be designed giving importance on them.
For every critical and error-prone operation listed above, six months’ comprehensive
data on reports of different types of defects were collected in following paragraphs.
From those tables, one can easily get idea regarding types of defects that are most
common for each of the operations [Table 3-1].
Table 3-1: Common Defect Types
# Operation Defect type
1 Collar Band
Joint
Nose Up Down
Width Irregular
2 Front Placket Skip Stich
3 Main Label
Attachment
Label Bias
Raw Edge
4 Pocket Attach
Bad Shape
Check Bias
Width Irregular
Slip Stich
T Tension
5 Placket Attach
Sleeve
Uneven Point
Width Irregular
Bad Shape
Improper Stich
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Slip of Stich
6 Sleeve Joint
Check Bias
Skip Stich
C/L Reverse
Open stich
Puckering
C/L Displaced
7 Arm Hole Top
Stich
Raw Edge
Width Irregular
Top side loose
8 Side Seam
Raw Edge
Pleat
Skip Stich
Intersection Point
U/D
Width Irregular
9 Collar Joint Allowance Uneven
Puckering
1
0 Cuff Attachment
2-PKT Up-down
Width Irregular
Check Bias
Improper back
Stich
Pleat
Projection
Slip of Stich
1
1
Collar Joint Top
Stich
Allowance uneven
Puckering
1
2 Bottom Hem
2-Front Check
Uneven
Bad Shape
Width Irregular
Skip Stich
Projection
Without Back
Stich
Based on the tables, pareto charts are produced in order to see the most frequent
defects in each of the processes.
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Figure 3-6: Pareto chart with common Defects in for Collar Band Joint
From Pareto chart of defects, we can see that Nose Up-Down is the most frequent
defect in Collar Band Joint, the reason of which includes lack of adequate skill in
operators, defects in the shape of pattern and also defects in stiches made by top-stitch
operators.
Figure 3-7: Pareto Chart with common Defects in Front Placket
Skip-stitch is the most frequent defect in Front (Button and Box) Placket operation
which is caused mainly due to problems in machines, inaccurate positioning of
Needle-Point and mal-adjustment with Fabric and Machine. The second most frequent
defect (i.e. Number Mistake) is caused mainly due to lack of care by the operators.
Figure 3-8: Pareto Chart with common defects in Main Label attachment
Label Bias is the most frequent defect in Main Label Attachment operation which
might be caused mainly due to lack of attention while handling label and fabric,
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
inaccurate placing of label by Collar Top-Stich Operator, and defects in printing of
labels.
Figure 3-9: Pareto Chart with Common Defects in Pocket Attach
Bad shaping of pockets is found to be the most observed defect in Pocket Attaching
Operation that is in most cases caused by lack of proper ironing of pockets, unskilled
handling by attaching operators (lack of adjustment of stitching with marks),
inaccurate shape of ironing pattern, defects in marking by marking operators etc.
Figure 3-10: Pareto Chart with common defects in Placket Attach Sleeve
Defects of Uneven Point in Sleeve Placket are caused mainly by inadequate ironing,
mal-handling by the operators, lack of care by Placket Attach Operator.
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Figure 3-11: Pareto Chart with common defects in Sleeve Joint
Check bias defect is mostly observed in Sleeve Joint operation. This defect is mostly
observed in check fabrics. The defect is mostly caused due to lack of care in following
cut-mark while joining sleeves, un-skilled operators, uneven tension while feeding
fabric on both side of the joint (i.e. main part and sleeves).
Figure 3-12: Pareto Chart with common defects in Arm-Hole Top Stich
Defects of raw-edge in arm-hole top stitch are mainly caused by unskilled operators,
mal-adjustment between folder & fabric and defects in sleeve joints.
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Figure 3-13: Pareto Chart with Common defects in Side Seam
Raw-edge defects in Side-Seam Joint Top Stitch is mainly caused by lack of skill in
operators, mal-adjustment of stitching-guide, and defects in machines etc.
Figure 3-14: Pareto Chart with common defects in Collar Joint
Defect of Uneven allowance in Collar Joint is caused mainly due to unskilled
operators, defects in Collar Neck Shape, problems in stitching guides.
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Figure 3-15: Pareto Chart with common defects in Cuff Attachment
Two Plackets’ (inside and topside) up-down is mainly caused by defects in Cuff
Attachment marking, un-even cutting in sleeve mouth and lack of skill in operators.
Figure 3-16: Pareto Chart with common defects in Collar Joint Top Stitch
Uneven allowance in Collar Joint Top Stich is mainly caused by inadequate lack of
skill and concentration by the operators and defects in Collar Joints.
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Figure 3-17: Pareto Chart with common defects in Bottom Hem
Two Uneven Front-Check defect in Bottom Hem stitching (mainly observed in check
fabrics) is mainly caused due to defects in Fabric Cutting Pattern, Shoulder Joint &
Collar Attachments.
3.5 Recommendations and Conclusion
As mentioned above, as the workers would play additional role as quality checkers,
very few number of fulltime Quality Inspectors should be enough for supervision.
But, at the same time, workers need to be trained in quality checking. A portion of the
cost savings from maintaining less number of Quality Inspectors might be invested for
training of the workers. Tougher-job operators should get proportionately more
intensive training than to easy-task operators.
One may argue that the productivity will decrease to a large extent when the workers
are loaded with additional task of checking items in hand for defects. But, one point to
note that, the main cost incurred by a defective item is in required reworks. Rework is
always more time consuming than completing an assembly straight. So, even the
productivity of workers would decrease to some extent, the cost saving from reworks
would be higher.
Surely for getting the workers ready for successful implementation of PAS, effective
training is indispensable. For this, training program focusing on the most frequent
defects would make things easier. In the following chapters our study provides a list
of the most frequent defects in each operation of sewing section of a shirt
manufacturing assembly line. Though this study was only focused to sewing section,
same kind of study can be done in future for other sections of assembly line for other
products as well.
Now, the critical and fault-prone operations are sorted out, the training program
should be designed giving importance on them. From section 3.5 (Analysis of
Defects), this is evident that, lack of skill in operators in many operations (i.e. Collar
Band Joint, Side-Seam Joint Top Stitch, Collar Joint, Two Plackets’ up-down, Collar
Joint Top Stitch) are the main cause of the most frequent defects. In addition, for
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
some operations (i.e. Front Placket, Main Label Attachment, Sleeve Placket, Sleeve
Joint operation), awareness needs to be build up among operators to be careful while
handling fabrics. Also training needs to be focused on some special skills like pattern
making, applying even tension while feeding fabric for stitching, accurate
adjustment of stitching guide etc.
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