Market Challenges in Equestrian Clothing... Small but Value ...

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A.T.E. and Zimmer organize symposium on digital printing focusing on carpet manufacturing industry

GARMENT TECHNOLOGY EXPOTechnology Solutions for all Levels and Segments of Manufacturers

Career Oriented Training Programs for Apparel Industry Professionals – II5S – First step towards LEAN

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Market Challenges in Equestrian Clothing... Small but Value Driven BusinessChina is the new emerging market

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StitchWorldTechnology and Management in Sewn Product Industry

vol. xII • Issue 2www.stitchworld.net

TechEvent24 A.T.E. And ZImmER oRgAnIZE symPosIum on dIgITAL

PRInTIng focusIng on cARPET mAnufAcTuRIng IndusTRy

TechBytes 8 PRIvATE ExhIbITIons vs. nATIonAL

And REgIonAL fAIRs...

NewsTrack10 JAPAn: shImA sEIkI’s ThRusT on

InTERnATIonAL ExhIbITIons And PRIvATE shows foR PoPuLARIsIng ITs whoLEgARmEnT™ knITTIng mAchInEs And sds-onE APEx3 3d dEsIgn sysTEm

SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system

Mukhtarul Amin, Chairman, Superhouse Group

Viraf Turel (L), Chairman, EH Turel & Company with Virender Uppal, Chairman, Richa Global Exports talking about a technology at the recently concluded GTE show

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GTEReview26 gARmEnT TEchnoLogy ExPo TEchnoLogy soLuTIons foR

ALL LEvELs And sEgmEnTs of mAnufAcTuRERs

TechTalk18 mARkET chALLEngEs In

EquEsTRIAn cLoThIng... smALL buT vALuE dRIvEn busInEss

chInA Is ThE nEw EmERgIng mARkET

48 cAREER oRIEnTEd TRAInIng PRogRAms foR APPAREL IndusTRy PRofEssIonALs – II

5s – fIRsT sTEP TowARds LEAn

Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA

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Read and comment on my blog at

http://stitchworldmagazine.blogspot.com

E D I T O R I A L

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A.T.E. and Zimmer organize symposium on digital printing focusing on carpet manufacturing industry

GARMENT TECHNOLOGY EXPOTechnology Solutions for all Levels and Segments of Manufacturers

Career Oriented Training Programs for Apparel Industry Professionals – II5S – First step towards LEAN

24 26 48


It’s election time... a time for frenzied debates, and I happen to listen to one such panel discussion wherein one of the panellists said that since manufacturing is capital intensive and the ongoing recessionary trend limited our capital resources which led to low employment generation... how does this argument stand for a Government which fails to acknowledge an industry which employs 14 million people and most of them either uneducated or just primary pass (a myth broken by a StitchWorld survey which shows that 71% are 10th pass) and who all can be put to the shop floor by training him or her for just about 8 days, speaks of the importance of the industry in a developing economy, especially where the manpower is young and abundant... In fact, Garment manufacturing is one industry which has been instrumental in the growth of all the developed economies of today and plays a very important role in the developing economies.

Over the decade long journey of StitchWorld, I have repeatedly advocated the importance of the industry for the overall economic development of the nation through the critical aspect of skill development of the lowest level of the resource chain right from the sewing skills to other 30 different types of pre-production and finishing skills. No doubt the sewing operators are larger in number, but other processes too require continuous skill enhancement and play an instrumental role in upgrading the industry.

Our next issue will discuss different aspects of skill development… don’t miss the edition, which also has an analysis of the survey results carried out on 567 workers from 45 factories in Delhi-NCR, on safety, health and educational concerns.

Even as the industry debates skill development and funds are being allocated under various schemes for the same, a major concern today is the non-availability of workers across all major garmenting hubs. In the recently published AO Top 100 listing in Apparel Online, labour is among the top ranking concerns of the industry. In fact, labour shortage has been responsible for holding up expansion plans of many… the reason given for this shortage across the board is the appeasement of employable villagers through the NREGA scheme, creating a nation of free-loaders.

Adding to the problem are many other parallel schemes by State Governments giving free ration, in a way discouraging people to venture out for work… And even though many of the skill development schemes are free of cost, facilitators are finding it difficult to attract rural youth.

China is a very good example of how a developing economy moves up the value chain, as workers lose interest in basic work. Today equestrian apparels, is a new chapter for the Chinese and in this issue of StitchWorld we look closer at the market and the opportunities. Also on review are the technologies from various solution providers at the recently concluded GTE.

Deepak MohindraEditor-in-Chief

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Do you prefer participation in the national fairs or in the regional fairs? Which format serves the purpose better and what value does it give to the visitors; if no, then why not? Do you also conduct private shows... if yes, do you feel private shows give more value to you rather than participating in large exhibitions… If you have not done a private show yet, is it something that you plan to do in the future?

TECH BYTES

We are in favour of taking part in national fairs rather than regional ones since they cater to visitors coming from across the nation looking for products relevant for their factory environment. The national fairs usually involves the senior management to see the latest technology and consider investment in what will bring maximum profits for the company but with help of regional fairs we are able to target the actual user who can see the application personally or make most of the people of numerous factories to witness which application would be relevant for their own product category and fabric. We have never conducted a private fair taking LOIVA as sole initiator but our partners (agents) have conducted few private fairs in the past since they can be the best solution where the unwanted crowd is not reachable and we can display the method of our working module and even perform application testing. We are a support to our partners for private show but as Loiva Intech Family we are concentrating on ‘working showroom’ concept with selected garment manufacturers, to demonstrate our technologies in action to the industry.

AnshumAn DAshDirector – Marketing, Loiva Intech, Bangalore

As a part of our ongoing activity for sales & brand promotion, Mehala as a company takes part in all the national fairs, we select only a few regional fairs for participation based on the efficacy of such participation. While the national fairs serve as a common platform to showcase the entire offerings from our company to a large customer base along with key customers, the regional fairs being segment specific at most times, do not attract large/key customers and they have to be personally invited and at times coaxed to visit the fair.

We also organize private shows periodically all across the country to showcase our prominent and best selling technologies and get undivided attention of our invited customers, both existing and prospective ones. In fact, private shows bring better and at times instant results than national or regional fairs since these are held at locations where there is

maximum concentration of manufacturing activities. However, private shows can’t take away the charm of participating at these national fairs since national fairs attract not only Indian customers but also participants at international level who are planning to invest in India as well.

Ashim DAsChief Executive Officer, Mehala Machines India, New Delhi

We prefer participating in national fairs since they give good response to our products nationally as Eastman has been pioneer in providing cutting solution to the garment, automats and other non-technical textile industry carrying legacy of 125 years. The main purpose which is fulfilled by participating in such national fairs is that our competitors get well versed with the fact that we are in business along with them, delivering and performing our best in terms of machinery, technology and service as well and we are deeply grounded.

Regarding fairs at regional level, we prefer to appoint our region wise agents to take care in promoting our products from factory to factory since it gives them wider communication base to know their local territory customers and establish good public relations with them.

In near future we are planning to do private shows for some of our accredited customers in which we would be providing them entire real time solution beginning from spreading to CNC cutter with the means of live production demonstration which would not only address the problems they are facing presently in their company but also the future prospects of their production and even the return on investments, keeping in mind company centric goals and policies.

syeD hAfeezRegional Manager – South East Asia, Eastman, Bangalore

Regional fairs serve us better since they are more concentrated on product and customer in a

Tech Bytes

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particular manufacturing zone, for example maximum of knit garments exports is Tirupur based while denim hub is based in Bellary. These areas provide much better customer response and attendance in such fairs is also significant since middle and higher management can devote more time due to the proximity of the area.

I feel a private shows give more value in terms of sales; as only serious customers would come to a private show as it would be displaying the products that they would be interested in. Also, we can do more of these on smaller scales all over the country and get a more concentrated crowd for the products that we are displaying and we are also able to give undue attention to them.

Apart from just doing demonstration of machines in the private shows – we also have experts with us, on hand – who are able to discuss on one-on-one basis with the customers on several issues like quality, productivity, techniques, and technical aspects. Customers come with a focused idea with a bag of problems comprising of fabrics and we try solving their problems there and then. It is more like a B2B session, a learning centre, and they return back with a definite decision without confusion. Recently we had conducted a private show on jeans in Bangalore where we focused basically on jeans manufacturer. In near future we are planning to organize a private show based on jackets manufacturing in the mainstream manufacturing hub.

VirAf TurelChairman, EH Turel & Company, Mumbai

Write your comments to us by 20th April 2014 at: [email protected] or post your views online through our website: www.stitchworld.net/techbytes

TechBytes StitchWorld May 2014 Question

Whenever we talk about skill development or training with respect to the apparel industry, the only job profile that comes to our mind is that of a sewing operator. It is true that they require the maximum amount of skill compared to other people, but it is also true that an untrained pressing operator can ruin perfectly sewn apparel, so why ignore them in training programs? Do you impart any formal training to non-sewing workers in your factory? If not, why? Do you feel there is a need for structured and systematic training for non-sewing workers... Have you heard about such training for non-sewing workers?

Tech Bytes

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Total imports of apparel by the US have started the year 2014 on a positive note in contrast to last year, with an increase of 3.26% in value and 3.44% in quantities. The average UVR is stable at US $ 3.20.

TRADE STATISTICS

India’s exports to the US registered 6.20% increase in value and 7.45% increase in volume in the first month of the year. The average UVR in January is however marginally down from US $ 3.59 last year to US $ 3.55 this year.

Apparel imports in the first nine of 2013 by the EU registered decline in value by (-) 0.89%, though volumes were up by 4.78%. The average UVR of imports in the review period was Euro 16.09 (per kg of fabric equivalent).

Indian apparel exports to the EU saw a marginal increase in value of 0.63%, while volumes were up significantly by 7.15%. The UVRs during this period were Euro 20.29 (per kg of fabric equivalent), the highest in the region.

News Track

France: Lectra appoints Céline Choussy Bedouet as Marketing Director for Automotive, Furniture, Technical Textiles and Composite Materials Division

Myanmar: Hong Kong manufactures to setup Garment Park in Myanmar

A company with the diverse range of integrated

solutions for product development and cutting room operations of fabrics, leather, technical textiles and composite materials industry, Lectra has appointed Céline Choussy Bedouet as Marketing Director for Automotive, Furniture, Technical Textiles and Composite Materials. Based in Bordeaux-Cestas (France), she reports directly to Daniel Harari, Lectra CEO.

Lectra serves 23,000 customers in more than 100 countries with 1,400 employees and revenues of US $ 270 million in 2013. “In five years, Lectra’s market share has risen from 15% to 60% in the automatic fabric cutting segment for automobile interiors. Céline has two priorities: the first is to promote the automatic cutting of leather interiors to strengthen our leading position in the automotive market, and the second is to

increase Lectra’s presence in the furniture, technical textiles and composite materials markets where we now have an enhanced offer,” said Daniel Harari.

A master’s in management from Bordeaux Management School, France, Céline Choussy Bedouet has held several senior positions over the past 8 years helping the companies in operational marketing, field, channel and partner marketing. “Our goal is to help our clients boost their margins by allowing them to capitalize on value creation and control their costs,” she says.

Céline Choussy Bedouet is the New Marketing Director for Lectra's non-apparel divisions

A garment factory in Myanmar

Garment manufacturers from Hong Kong have

signed an agreement to set up their first industrial park in Myanmar, across 200 hectare area in Yangon, the former capital of Myanmar. The park would be part of the 400-hectare Thilawa Special Economic Zone, co-built by Myanmar and Japan. About 12 Hong Kong based clothing firms will be participating at the apparel park with an aim to benefit from the low cost of production in Myanmar, which is only about 20 per cent of the wages in China. The construction work is expected to begin in mid-2015 and the garment units in the park are likely to go operational by the end of 2015.

Once the garment park becomes operational, it would create employment opportunities for at least 30,000 local people, who will be paid salary at market rates. At present, garment workers in Myanmar get salary of about US $ 100-120 per month. Hong Kong entrepreneurs also expect to benefit from the duty-free access enjoyed by Myanmar while exporting to the EU. In recent years, several apparel manufacturers have either opened new production facilities or shifted their existing ones to Bangladesh and Southeast Asia, owing to rising wages, appreciation of the Chinese renminbi and other factors.

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Japan: Shima Seiki’s thrust on international exhibitions and private shows for popularising its WHOLEGARMENT™ knitting machines and SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system

A recognized player in high-end technology,

Shima Seiki has a formidable 62% share in the global flat knitting market and to keep the thrust going, the Japanese pioneer has been showcasing at many forums around the world. The five-decade old company participated at the ITM Texpo Eurasia in Turkey, Preview in Deagu Exhibition in Korea, Egy Stitch & Tex exhibition in Egypt, Coterie exhibition in New York, Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Italy and the Première Vision show in New York along with privately held exhibitions in Italy, Korea and Romania, all in the first quarter of 2014.

The highlight of all these exhibitions and showcases was the company’s SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system,

developed with Shima Seiki’s valuable experience as a world leader in fashion technology, equipped with a proprietary hardware and industry specific functionalities. With its ability to support all aspects from planning, design, sampling and production to machine programming, merchandising and sales promotion, SDS®-ONE APEX3 has established its reputation as an all-in-one apparel design tool. It is a communication tool for bringing together people and ideas right down from the yarn maker to apparel planner, designer, knitter, merchandiser, and retailer,

from different areas of the fashion industry, all of whom come together on a single platform to take design decisions and work on product concepts. The solution consists of a pressure-sensitive cordless pen and digitiser tablet as well as a trackball unit with duplicate keys for often-used functions. A high-recognition menu features buttons for each software application with picture icons formed with 3D-like

illustrations contributing to increased efficiency.

The technology innovations from the company are in line with its range of WHOLEGARMENT knitting machines for sweaters and other apparel applications, which includes the MACH2X,

SWG 021, MACH2S, SWG 041N and SWGFIRST124/154. Shima Seiki first introduced this complete garment knitting machine in 1995, which does not require any sewing or linking afterwards. Besides intarsia, jacquard and fine gauge capabilities, the machines are also equipped with Shima Seiki’s innovations like SlideNeedle, R2CARRIAGE, i-DSCS digital stitch control system, Air Splicer and Pull Down device.

India: Spencer Knitwears shifts factory into industrial area for better working

Known for being a major manufacturing base

for the domestic market, Ludhiana is also growing in the export segment, motivating manufacturers to be more organized and build capacities. The 23 years old, Spencer Knitwears is a perfect example of the same, manufacturing winter wear mainly for the domestic market and also for a UK based wholesaler, the company is shifting its production unit to the industrial area, which has good amenities especially in terms of infrastructure. It is also adding four new flat knitting machines.

“We are into exports from the last five years, but as our unit was not in an industrial area some problems were a part of daily routine. To avoid these problems and to work in a better way, we have taken 3600 sq. feet land in Industrial Area ‘A’ and here our factory will be spread over three floors; the building is almost ready, and in April we will start production. Easy movement of material will be a good advantage for us in the new area as it has very wide roads and it will improve our working culture also,” shares Sandeep Thapar, Partner of the company. The company is expecting 25 per cent growth this year.

Sandeep Thapar and Sonia Thapar, Partners,Spencer Knitwears

SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system

News Track

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USA: Gerber leverages the advantage of YuniquePLM to Fila USA, Jonathan & Fletcher and Bosco Sport

YuniquePLM, from Gerber Technology the

leader in CAD/CAM, a web-based platform that helps businesses of all sizes to reduce lead time and improve margins by managing the details of line plans, tech packs, samples, as well as simplifying communication and collaboration with global partners, has been implemented by three leading retailers around the globe. To date, many prominent fashion brands have implemented YuniquePLM including Abercrombie & Fitch, Adorn Fashions, Aéropostale, Aigle, Bugatti, Cutter and Buck, Du Pareil au Même, Fruit of the Loom, Icicle, Jonathan & Fletcher, Kenneth Cole and Lafodex, among others.

Among the latest brands to select YuniquePLM®, is Fila USA, a subsidiary of Fila Korea to manage its footwear development process. YuniquePLM will enable Fila to reap the benefits of a world-class PLM system while increasing collaboration and communication between the company’s affiliated sourcing centres in Asia, and its operations in Maryland and New York. Fila USA has experienced significant growth in the past few years and realized that, to manage such growth, a robust PLM system was critical. “Now we have an integrated solution that enables designers and developers to collaborate and communicate easily with their supply chain,” said Sandy Hamilton, Director of Information Technology at Fila. Adding further, she said, “Our decision came down to ease of implementation

and user adoption. After evaluating several solutions, what made Yunique Solutions stand out was the high regard for their software in the industry and their commitment to the post-sales relationship.”

The premier French brand known for its high-performance winter wear and sportswear, Jonathan & Fletcher® has selected Gerber Technology’s YuniquePLM® system to improve visibility and accelerate speed to market. Jonathan & Fletcher is proud to have crafted race suits for athletes competing in the Sochi Winter Olympics, including five-time Olympic champion, Shiva Keshavan, of India. Georges Pessey, Founder of Jonathan & Fletcher said, “YuniquePLM helps us bring our products to market as fast as possible and with the highest quality. Thanks to the team of industry experts at Yunique Solutions, we now benefit from greater

YuniquePLM reduce lead time and improve margins by managing the details of line plans, tech packs, samples, as well as simplifying communication

News Track

visibility and efficiency and, because all information is now accessible in one centralized system, we are able to collaborate with our entire supply chain around the world.”

Not far behind, is Bosco Sport, Russia’s premier sportswear company which has implemented the system to accelerate

production and delivery of uniforms to hundreds of Olympic athletes and more than 45,000 volunteers. A Yunique Solutions’ customer since 2012, Bosco is able to import product style data and bills of material directly from the company’s existing Galileo ERP system, thereby improving the decision making process, eliminating redundant data entry and accelerating product to market.“YuniquePLM has enabled us to standardize the business cycle that was previously more fragmented, helping us to have better control over our line of sportswear and leisure fashions,” said Stefano Montanari, CEO of Bosco Sport Italy. With YuniquePLM, Bosco’s largest customer in Russia enters a sketch into the system along with the product details and, almost instantly, the engineering department in Italy is able to move the product into production.

To date, many prominent fashion brands have implemented YuniquePLM including Abercrombie & Fitch, Adorn Fashions, Aéropostale, Aigle, Bugatti, Cutter and Buck, Du Pareil au Même, Fruit of the Loom, Icicle, Jonathan & Fletcher, Kenneth Cole and Lafodex, among others.

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"Once the training will be in flow and our need will be complete, these trained workers will be available for the industry. Training will be from minimum 3 to maximum 6 months and we will try to make them multi-skilled operators."

India: Apparel Inc./Bhoomi Fashions starting training centre to develop skilled workers for the local industry

Operator training is an area that should be

on priority for garment exporters, but sadly it is not so. While many of the bigger exporters have their own in-house setup to train the operator as per their needs, it is good to know that a medium level export house is coming up with a training centre which will serve the industry also. Apparel Inc./Bhoomi

factories. But this is not sufficient and as Jaipur is facing acute shortage of labour, especially trained labour, having own training centre is the only solution.

Our centre will be in 5,000 sq. feet area and women will be priority as trainees. Initially, we will have 40 machines dedicated for the same in our own factory. Once the training will be in flow and our need will be complete, these trained workers will be available for the industry. Training will be from minimum 3 to maximum 6 months and we will try to make them multi-skilled operators,” informs Saini. To give practical exposure and confidence to the trainees, the company will use the centre to stitch its production on a regular basis. The centre will take almost three months to

JP Saini, Director, Apparel Inc./Bhoomi Fashions

Fashions, Jaipur is planning to start its own operator training centre and land has already been procured for the same.

JP Saini, Director of the company who has 200 machines, is very passionate about training. “I have a personal interest in training and have already trained few workers not only in stitching, but even in cutting and now they are working in various

start and in the meanwhile camps will be organized to create awareness about the centre and attract fresh talent. Along with technical knowledge, soft skills will also be a part of the training module. “Our purpose is not only to create a pool of trained workers, but also to reduce our cost as trained workers have good efficiency and productivity,” concludes Saini.

CMYK


News Track

India: Bannari Amman signs MoU for textile project in Tamil Nadu

Bangladesh: Natural Group moving ahead with a new Denim Factory

Abirami Amman Mills Private Limited, a

wholly-owned subsidiary of Bannari Amman Group, one of the principal industrial conglomerates in South India with wide spectrum of manufacturing, trading, distribution and financing activities, as also a spinning division in the Dindigul district of Tamil Nadu, has signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) with the Tamil Nadu Government for setting up a textile project near Dindigul.

Established in 1995, the SV Arumugam promoted company Bannari Amman has spinning, weaving, garments, knitting and processing divisions under textiles. The spinning division has a capacity to produce more than

It all started 20 years ago with a washing plant of 30,000

pieces capacity of bottoms per day, catering largely to the needs of other garmenting units, but now the focus is very much on garmenting. “Since our denim bottom buyers are increasing the volume of sourcing from us, we thought of a new factory for denim bottom manufacturing to add value to our business and our washing unit,” informed S. Golam Shibly Nomany, Chairman, Natural Group. The new bottom factory will come up in the next six months. Natural Group already has 6 factories comprising of a total of 2,000 sewing machines spread out in Dhaka, Ashuliya and Mirpur producing 9,00,000 pieces of bottoms and 3,50,000 sweaters per month for some

120s Ne, with 2, 4 and 8

pick insertions.

The proposed project would

have a production capacity of

15,000 spindles with a total

investment of Rs. 250 crore.

The vertically integrated

Bannari Amman Spinning

Mills currently has a capacity

of around 1,60,000 spindles

at Dindigul, catering to the

Tirupur, Kolkata and Kanpur

markets. The mill exports 24

many units to shut down in China helping the flow of denim to Bangladesh, adding to its strength in the already strong market segment. “More than the business shift from China due to increased wages, we in Bangladesh have made effort to strengthen our capabilities by hiring washing technician from Italy and Turkey and continuously training local boys to support our growth trajectory,” said Nomany.

The company also has 150 Stoll flat knitting and 1800 hand flat knitting machines, and is ready to take speedily growth, but gas and power shortage are the issues that hamper further investment. Nomany believes that if these problems get solved, Bangladesh can double its exports in five years. “Many

per cent of the production to

Israel, Mauritius, Egypt, Taiwan

and South Korea.

In Financial Year 2012-13,

Bannari Amman’s total income

from operations was Rs. 559.71

crore and its net profit stood at

Rs. 27.31 crore. In the quarter

ended December 2013, the

company’s unaudited total

income from operations was

Rs. 174.89 crore, with net profit

being Rs. 6.13 crore.

a times there is a strong urge to go for backward integration in spinning and forward integration into denim fabric manufacturing but shortage of power shatters all my zeal,” he says.

Nomany adds that diversification, hard work and constant search for opportunity is responsible for growth. “I spent continuous 120 nights in the factory as I had no experience in finishing, so I learnt from my mistakes and participated in each process including inspection and final packaging and it has paid dividend,” concludes Nomany. The company does US $ 70 million business per year and hopes to double the turnover in next five years with little help from Government.

60 tonnes/day of combed & carded ring spun yarn from 6/s to 40/s count, mainly hosiery yarn for knitting market. The weaving division has capacity to produce all kinds of woven fabrics in 100% cotton, in various thread counts (TC) ranging from 500 TC to 1000 TC, in wider width up to 140 inches, with warp counts up to 90s Ne, with 250 threads in 1 inches and weft counts up to

of the best brands in the world like H&M, Zara, Mango, C&A, etc. “Denim is an opportunity today and we are here to grab that opportunity,” added Noor-A-Shaheed Rana, Partner and MD of the Group.

Environmental hazards of washing units have forced

S. Golam Shibly Nomany, Chairman, Natural Group

CMYK


India: Inkjet Forum India organizes 4th International Inkjet Conference; urges digital printing industry to capitalize on printing revolution

Digital Printing has given creative freedom to

designers allowing limitless colour choice and continuous pattern options without repeat limitations. Driven by increasing acceptance of digital printing technique, and many technological advancements aiming at improving speed, design, and efficiency, the global production of printed textiles is projected to reach 30 billion square metres by 2018. Focusing on various growth factors and issues in digital printing, Mumbai-based Inkjet Forum India organized a day-long conference in Delhi, where experts from fashion and technology background and printing industry discussed and examined the commercial and creative opportunities of digital printing. The topics discussed in the panel discussion were targeted at standardizing every stage in the supply chain of the Indian digital textile printing industry and the fact that the next two years really poised to be the growth years for this disruptive technology in India.

With over 150 delegates from various disciplines of the textile industry, the conference was an interactive networking platform and talking in terms of facts and figures, most of the speakers threw light on how digital printing has created a niche of its own and has got rapid market acceptance. Corroborating to the statement, Ashish Dhir, Director, Wisedge Consulting claimed that digital printing market in India is estimated to be around 31 million metres which is approximately US

Ayush Rathi, Director, MS Orange sole dealer of Italian digital printing machine manufacturer MS Printing Solutions in India, notified SPR (same printing result) to be the future of digital printing technology. Noticing cost issue to be the most discussed

$ 100 million in value term. Dr. Sanjay Gupta, Dean, GD Goenka School of Fashion and Design, informing about this growing industry said, “Accessories and home fashion commodities accounted for 10 per cent of all digitally printed textiles in 2010, and owing to demand for this technique, this year it is expected to touch 24 per cent.” He also discussed on the business models like focusing on mass customization for home furnishing industry concentrating on various creative design aesthetics.

Determining the business potential which digital textile printing provides in the areas of apparel, fashion, home textiles and garments, machine manufacturers discussed and put forth various technical aspects and capabilities of their technologies. Focusing on the technology front,

topic at the conference, he added, “Presently cost is the main factor inhibiting this printing process’ growth but in the coming few years service providers and ink manufacturers will be definitely reducing their costs to reciprocate to the increasing demand. Various experts from the field, Vinod Krishnamurthy, Jos Notermans of SPG Prints and Nobu Kimura of Konica Minolta also raised interesting points like relation between realistic cost per metre and single pass versus (multiple) scanning printers.

The conference not only witnessed the presence of digital printer manufacturers and service providers but also exporters like Amarjit Singh, CEO, Indigo Apparel; Rajeev Bansal, MD Celestial Knits & Fabs and representatives from Welspun, Target, and Centex International.

News Track

Speakers and subject experts of Digital Printing at the conference

With over 150 delegates from various disciplines of the textile industry, the conference was an interactive networking platform and talking in terms of facts and figures, most of the speakers threw light on how digital printing has created a niche of its own and has got rapid market acceptance.

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India: New manufacturing set-ups indicate positivity in the coming years for apparel exports

Apparel export has its own challenges and

charm that attracts many domestic players, especially for those who are exploring new growth opportunities. Pearl International, Dahanu (Thane) is one such company, which having a wide experience of fabric trading and garmenting is now preparing for export market. Sandeep B. Jagad, Partner of the company said, “We have four decades of experience in fabric trading and 12 years in garmenting so we wanted to use our knowledge and exposure for

the export market. We are targeting Middle East, Mexico and the US markets with our specialization of shirts and trousers. From April onwards we will start export regularly,” informed Sandeep. At the moment, the company with 350 stitching machines is working as a job worker for many big retailers and has plans for commencing a 100 machine unit for lingerie manufacturing. The company with annual business of approximately Rs. 24 crore per annum is expecting to close this financial year with at least 20 per cent growth.

News Track

With a strong fabric weaving and sizing experience in Surat (S K Weaving), SK Exports is just 4 months old in the export business, exploring the market with basic as well as high embellishment products. Having recently entered into garment exports with a capacity of 100 machines, the company is headed by Jaskaran Singh Baweja, Managing Partner. “If all goes according to our preparation and planning, we may go for expansion also,” informs Baweja, who is targeting no particular country for his products. Following the same

track, Aradhana Enterprise from Jaipur, which is into

fabric trading, is also

installing 50 machines for

garment export. It has some

experience of beachwear

export to France and is now

focusing more dedicatedly

on exports and is planning

to add some more product

categories too in the year

ahead. Ankit, the young face

of the firm informed, “We

felt that since Jaipur is doing

well in exports so we should

also try. I am confident that

our experience in fabrics will

also help us.”

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Tech Talk


With the volume business almost shifting to cheap manufacturing destinations like

Bangladesh, Indian exporters are constantly diversifying their product basket in a strategy to

move to low volume yet high margin products. Sometimes it means more than notching up

the value addition and exploring a completely unchartered territory. One prospective product

segment is equestrian apparels, the clothing for horse riders.

riders, with over 2 million of these riding at least once a month. This makes riding a horse more popular than any other sport like cricket, rugby or fishing. Professionally, there are approximately 1,500 race meetings held annually at Britain’s 60 race courses, with over 90,000 runners competing in some 9,000 races.

It is baffling that the US horse industry directly produces goods and services of US $ 25.3 billion and has a total impact of US $ 112 billion on the US GDP, making its contribution greater than the motion picture services, rail-road transportations, and tobacco manufacturing industries.

Another aspect is that the median income for all US households is US $ 36,000, while the median income for horse owning households is US $ 60,000, thus reflecting that there is an affluent customer base to cater to.

Not to be left behind, 2 million Chinese have augmented their attention to equestrian

There are 6.9 million horses in the US and 7.1 million Americans who

are involved in the industry as horse owners, service providers, employees and volunteers,

of which an approximate 5.5 million are horse riders in recreational or racing activities. The market is even more compelling across the Atlantic. UK alone has 4.3 million horse

There are 6.9 million horses in the US and 5.5 million riders, contributing to an industry of US $ 25.3 billion.

Alone in the UK there are 4.3 million riders, of which over 2 million are riding at least a month.

China is the latest entrant in the sport with 2 million riders, giving rise to a domestic and manufacturing market.

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Tech Talk

sports with Beijing and Shanghai exerting their presence even in show jumping and dressage, while Hong Kong being a potentially major player in horse racing, the ‘sport of kings’, the only legal form of gambling in Hong Kong, is embraced with unbridled fervour, pulls in more than HKD 91 billion. China’s persistence to improve its competitiveness at every sport in the Olympic Games, slated are six events before next Olympic that involves horse riding, making it not only a market for consumption but also a growing hub for manufacturing equestrian clothing.

Unlike other sport or leisure which can be played or carried out in your average polo neck T-shirt and shorts, horse riding requires specific traditional and performance-oriented clothing. A helmet, a jacket, a breech, and a boot are the best composition for a horse rider’s attire; breeches being the highest volume segment amongst them all. This niche product can fetch high prices with the FOB ranging from US $ 10-12 to easily up to US $ 30. Yet there are only a handful of manufacturers of equestrian clothing in the country. Amongst them, the unarguable leader in manufacturing equestrian clothing is JPC, closely followed by Superhouse. While JPC caters to customers in 55 countries with self-owned brands like JPC, Tuffrider, Baker, Kingsland, whereas Superhouse has built on its expertise from the Rs. 1,000 crore leather business to project a turnover of over Rs. 232 crore in the coming FY, 30% of which comes from making breeches.

Another player, may be smaller today but has all the potential to grow big, is Noida based Ascot International which manufactures equestrian clothing with a setup of 100 sewing machines. Under the flourishing leadership of Arun Handa, Director of the company and a NIFT GMT Graduate, Ascot International has successfully strived in the price-competitive

Varun Sharma President – Jaipur Polo Company (JPC)

Mukhtarul Amin Chairman – Superhouse Group

“When we started production, these fabrics were not available in India. Going vertical gave us a chance to work with innovative and specialty fabrics providing an edge in developments, while also taking full control over the entire supply line.”

“Mostly we do all the product development and present our designs at Spoga Horse Fair, held twice in Germany. This fair brings the maximum business to our company.”

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breeches, choose to establish themselves in Delhi-NCR. “Breeches are mostly formal or semi-formal attire in which the comfort of the customer is utmost priority, following strict standards in fabric and fit. The mid and top level management in Delhi-NCR is the right set of people who understand garment construction very well. The buyers too prefer suppliers from this region,” says Mukhtarul Amin, the Chairman of Superhouse Group, who has a huge leather manufacturing empire in Kanpur.

Mohd. Faiz, Director – Textile Division, Superhouse Group, claims that an efficient sourcing and sampling department is Superhouse’s greatest strength. “We have a very fast turnaround time in sampling with a lead time of just 60 days, and vertical integration has helped us improve it even more,” he adds. The company is also producing some ingenious products like protective jacket for riding, bullet proof jackets and workwear. All products in this ISO 9001-2000 company have acquired the necessary ASI, SATRA certifications, along with CEN 345 & DIN 4843.

Since the product quantity is

usually small, the cutting, although assisted by CAD, is mostly manual. The cutting room also has a welt pocket making automat from Duerkopp Adler, and the bundles including the welt pockets are sent to the sewing lines using chainstitch sewing machines majorly due to their increased flexibility compared to lockstitch seams, which are only restricted to waistband preparation and attachment. Also used are overlock machines for serging and flatlock machines for attaching suede or leather patches as per the design element. Out of the 13 sewing lines, few are dedicated for fulfilling the need of the very small quantity requirements of the buyers. “The product is very standardized, with not much difference in style. Therefore, a very advanced level of production planning is not required,” explains Yashpal Malhotra, General Manager, Superhouse. Decorative zigzag stitching through a Golden Wheel feed-off the arm machine is majorly used on the side seam, mostly to hide the edges appliqué works is done, sometimes even while joining the seams.

The knee is one particular area which requires extra flexibility

Most of the sports and leisure activities are enjoyed in a T-shirt

and an equally casual lower, requiring nothing more than some protective accessories to go along. Fortunately for India, horse riding is played with proper apparels and protective gears, thus spinning off a considerable market both for equestrian apparels that are specifically engineered for the comfort and ease of movement of the rider and accessories required for protection of the body. Superhouse is amongst the frontrunners in producing breeches, and has a dedicated unit in Noida, housing 500 machines, producing 6,00,000 pieces per annum, catering to wholesalers and retailers in Germany, Denmark, UK, Holland and USA.

Out of the two style statements, western riders mainly wear jeans while the English riding is done wearing breeches. However, connoisseurs of both riding forms are unanimous that breeches are the ideal bottomwear in terms of utility and comfort. While riding, the inseam of jeans can ruin a saddle as it rubs against it, along with the chaffing on the riders skin. That is why the pattern of a breech is so designed that there are minimum seams, which is the reason why good quality breeches are made with no seam under the leg and thigh. Particularly for men, the 4-way crotch seam used in most jeans is particularly uncomfortable, while high quality breeches have a gusseted crotch where an extra diamond shaped bit of fabric is added into the crotch of the pant, making the crotch area a little wider.

Even though Kanpur is the major leather hub for both Superhouse and JPC, the major players in

SuPerhouSe GrouP FoCuSeS on ProDuCT DeveLoPMenT AnD SWIFT SAMPLInG To reMAIn CoMPeTITIve

Mohd. Faiz, Director – Textile Division, Superhouse Group

Yashpal Malhotra, General Manager, Superhouse

Tech Talk

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while riding has to have loose fit which may cause the fabric around the area to be worn out and therefore breeches are often sewn with knee pads made of leather. Sewing the elastic waist band and fly are the most crucial operations.

Every line has two QAs who report to a quality head on the floor. “The crucial reason for fewer rejections is that we have operators working with us for more than 10 years and since they are doing the same job for many years they have built a product expertise. They have stuck with us as we could give them 12 month work,” says Yashpal.

In spite of being a veteran in its segment assisted by a strong infrastructure, Superhouse has only recently made efforts for utilizing systems or management processes to their full advantage. While seasoned players like JPC are working at 140% efficiency, closely assisted by technological systems like the Switchtrack material handling system, Superhouse is fast catching up. The recent focus of the company is to work on improving its productivity by the use of automats and involving consultants. “We are already in talks with a consultant from Taiwan who has promised us an improvement of over 20% in our productivity. We realize that the best way to increase our profits is by increasing our efficiency and minimizing wastages,” continues Amin.

Faiz concludes saying, “We do recognize that to grow further we would have to improve our efficiencies and reduce our rejections, with the help of technology or consultants. For the same, we are on the lookout for consultants who can understand the nuances of our products.”

The finishing lines are adjacent to the sewing lines only for lowering the wastes of transportation and waiting

The Noida unit has a total of 13 sewing lines out of which few have been segregated for small order quantities

An example of a zigzag decorative stitch being done on the outseam of a breech

Manufacturers broadly use the term breeches also for jodhpurs and riding tights. Although breeches and jodhpurs have the same construction, breeches are riding trousers that only go three-quarters of the way down your leg. They are designed to be worn with long boots to make them more comfortable to ride in and make them easier to get on and off. On the other hand, jodhpurs are longer, go down to your ankle and are most often accompanied by straps or elastic at the bottom to go around the arch of the foot to keep the pant legs down while riding, and are therefore mostly worn by kids. Riding tights are of the same length as jodhpurs but are usually made of low-quality knit material.

Pocket welting through Duerkopp Adler’s machines are done in the cutting room only

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market, working with wholesalers and importers majorly dealing with the European market.

Kanpur is the major leather hub in the northern part of India. Since the pre-independence era Britishers had established stables in Kanpur and they also taught karigars how to tend to the horses and other allied work. Today Kanpur has around 50-60 small to mid-size players like Treadstone, Surender Saddlery and Janak Leather Exports, for equestrian products which also include breeches. Even though breeches are not the principal product for these companies, they produce it to fill their capacities or to meet the additional demands of their buyers or to complete their equestrian product basket. Small in size and without a dedicated product line, these companies work with wholesalers, importers and receive all the design details from them, whereas Superhouse also works with big retailers and International brands like Ariat who occasionally send their own designs. Mukhtarul Amin, the Chairman of Superhouse Group says, “Mostly we do all the product development and present our designs at Spoga Horse Fair, held twice in Germany. This fair brings the maximum business to our company.” JPC on the other hand has established its own brands worldwide, a strategy that Amin too recommends, earning the reputation of pioneer of equestrian clothing in India.

Highlighting the evolution of breeches, Amin says, “Earlier the garments used to be more formal but now more value addition is being demanded

like embellishments, embroidery or trims. Even more colours are being demanded while earlier breeches were limited to 4-5 formal colours. “The product offers perennial business for 10 months around a year and is retailed by equestrian goods retailors rather than apparel companies, explains Arun. “ Usually breeches are sold at an equine good store which are closer to stud farms or race courses and at times sold as promotional and complementary equine goods, he added.

Worldwide 45 Trade Shows are organized for Equestrian Sports, with Germany alone hosting 21 such shows like Spoga, Equimed, HansePferd and are Eurocheval while the rest are divided in 14 countries like USA, Canada, Australia, Serbia, Ukraine, Great Britain, Spain, France, Italy and Hungary. “Besides the international fairs, China also has 5-6 fairs of its own and even the dominance of Chinese companies can be seen at the 2013 edition of Spoga, with participation from 19 companies from China, which has all come up in the past 10 years,” shares Arun, who believes that it’s not about the love for horses, rather about impersonating the luxurious lifestyle of Europeans for the Chinese. “A lot of riding stadiums have been constructed in China and the Government is hiring coaches and consultants for improving the sport. Housing more than 6 lakh horses, the Inner Mongolia region of China has a lot of horse summits, shows and riding clubs,” he adds.

Breeches demand specialty fabric, knit or woven that should be sweat resistant, dirt repellent and inhibit four-way stretchability as the

A shockproof jacket developed by Superhouse for safeguarding riders from sudden falls

Breeches produced by JPC in technically advanced woven fabric with the right amount of stretch

Outerwear jackets from Superhouse, are also in huge demand by the brands and retailors

We more often see riders wearing short coats or formal jackets, along with breeches; while the latter is a staple product, jackets and coats are worn in competitions and summits by a small and premium set of customers. Coats are usually customised and manufactured in quantities of less than 10 pieces. The construction of these coats is similar to formal blazers and jackets, but are more fitted and made of stretch fabrics.

Both JPC and Superhouse manufacture coats and jackets as a small quantity order.

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“A lot of riding stadiums have been constructed in China and its Government is hiring coaches and consultants for improving the sports. Housing more than 6 lakh horses, the Inner Mongolia region of China has a lot of horse summits, shows and riding clubs.”

Arun Handa Director, Ascot International

German made warp knitting machines, which can knit almost every kind of knit fabric to get the desired quality and power stretch. All collars, sleeve cuffs, anti-pill polyester and poly viscose specialized stretch fleece fabrics are being made in-house with raising and shearing capability. Varun Sharma, President, JPC states, “When we started production, these fabrics were not available in India. Going vertical gave us a chance to work with innovative and specialty fabrics providing an edge in developments, while also taking full control over the entire supply line.”

enhanced woven fabric with the right stretch. All new structures in woven fabric are first developed in bit looms in-house before being weaved using specialized world class weaving looms imported from Switzerland and Italy that can handle any kind of complex structured fabric. Some of the complex structures of woven fabric made in-house include four-way stretch corduroy with any wale specification, and jacquard terry towel fabric.

JPC has a world class fabric manufacturing & finishing facility with 37 looms and 40 knitting machines, which include circular, flat and

garments are body hugging and necessitate extra stretch and strength. Sourcing the right fabric is the hardest part in manufacturing breeches. Being a high-end product, the order quantity is generally low, with small scale manufacturers making as less as 200 pieces. Thus, sourcing fabric for so small a volume is a challenge, and therefore the manufacturers have to usually pay a premium on the price to the suppliers. However, the same is not much of a problem for Superhouse which has established long standing rapport with its buyers. “If a buyer orders 500 pieces in a particular style and the minimum the fabric mills would supply is for 1,200 pieces, we would take firm commitment that the buyer will source 700 additional garments of the same fabric in the future,” explains Amin. However, he does agree that having a vertically integrated setup is the best choice while manufacturing breeches. He adds, “The real problem is not the price but the delay in delivery of fabrics. Since for suppliers, big fabric orders are always a priority over small quantities, many a times our order gets sidelined and delayed.” It is a good reason for Superhouse which now plans to start its own woven fabric manufacturing. He further adds, “Although going vertically integrated helps us in costing, lead time, as well as in improving the quality, the major focus of this 8 loom venture is on R&D to develop more performance-oriented fabrics.”

JPC already uses different varieties of yarns like cotton, polyester, nylon, as also branded performance yarns like Dryarn, Coolmax and Lycra to develop technically

Tech Talk

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A.T.e. and Zimmer organize symposium on digital printing focusing on carpet manufacturing industry

Tech Event

Though the technology for digital printing on carpets is new to India, Zimmer already holds 90% of the

global market in the segment. In India, its digital printer for home textiles is installed at Om Sak Panipat, and the performance of the said machine has attracted the home segment to the capability of Zimmer in this category and gives confidence to the company that their latest offering for carpets will hit the right cord with the major players in the industry who are largely unorganized.

The production of carpets worldwide is 1.5 billion square metres out of which 10% is printed by a ChromoJET machine from Zimmer and as the market of printed carpets is growing very fast, the growth opportunity in the segment is huge. “We do not want the company’s to switch from tufted carpets completely to printed ones but at least expand their product offerings to such products as it is the future,”

said Horst Ros, Sales Director, Zimmer Austria. Carpet digital printing started in the mid-70s and was developed by Peter Zimmer, at a time when computer was not present or accessible to everyone. As of now China is the largest manufacturer of printed carpets.

The targeted symposium was held in New-Delhi for its proximity to all major carpet manufacturing bases, Bhadohi, Mirzapur and Agra belt in Uttar Pradesh, Jaipur-Bikaner belt in Rajasthan, Panipat belt in Haryana and Kashmir belt, all of whom are making mostly hand tufted, woollen and hand knotted carpets in handlooms which are usually printed manually or by flat bed/rotary printing machines. The day-long event, the first of its kind from the organizers attracted experts from fashion, technology and home textiles background, as also printing industry to discuss and examine the commercial and creative opportunities of digital printing with respect to the company’s latest technologies.

With over 100 delegates from various disciplines the event proved to be an interactive networking platform. For printers who were looking for high production digital textile printing machine with flexibility for short and long run, Zimmer had on offer the Colaris, which can easily print up to 200 linear metre/hour and has production speed of 700 square metres per hour; and the Colaris NF for diverse applications in flags banners, narrow fabrics made up of polyester, cotton and velvet with speed of 50 metres per minute. In the case of carpet/bathmat digital printing system, Zimmer offered the ChromoJET Visitors looking at the various products printed on Zimmer's machines

Latest technology in digital printing

is offering value-adding capabilities

far beyond what the industry

imagined and the most recent

product to get the digital makeover

is carpets. For Indian carpet

manufacturers, this technology

presents immense potential as the

export market is expected to grow

at CAGR of 9.4% till 2018 and

recently touched the mark of US

$ 1 billion. Eyeing this niche market,

Zimmer Maschinenbau GmbH,

Austria, a world leader in textile

and carpet printing and coating

applications, along with its India

representative A.T.E., a one-window

solutions provider across the entire

textile value chain – from ginning

to garmenting – and linked with

about 70 manufacturers worldwide,

recently held a symposium, “Solutions

for your needs” to introduce and

address queries regarding the latest

development in carpet printing.

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Tech Event

digital printing machine series with 25 dpi and 76 dpi resolutions which can be used for polyamide, wool, acrylic, velour terry and polyester yarns, has dual function that is to pre-treat fabric and even enhance penetration on heavy fabrics without increasing ink cost. This machine possesses unique printing system which is combined with in-line pre-treatment system of Magno roll which makes it suitable for medium to heavy substrates mainly for carpets, rugs, carpet tiles, needle felt and bathmats with no limitation of design repeat up to commonly used 16/24 colours. This technology is being used by all major printed carpet producers across the globe. Zimmer also has a complete range of pre- and post-treatment equipment for digital printing and has sold more than 350 lines of printing machines all over the world. “We have never negotiated on reducing quality with increase in machine speed and instead we focus on increasing number of printing heads to have better production for velour, flock and towel by printing by ‘wet on wet’ pre-treatment, which gives better printing quality and deeper colour penetration,” informed Martin Basset, Sales Manager, Zimmer.

The Zimmer team was quick to point out that the Indian carpet industry is missing out on many opportunities, for lack of technology. “A market which can be tapped by Indian carpet manufacturers is of promotional carpets. This segment has a huge potential not only in exports but also in the domestic market with a lot of hotels, offices and residential spaces coming up. The printing on such carpets is not only limited to the logo on mats but has wider use in floor coverings,” argued Martin. Similar is the case with polyester and acrylic blankets. The machine can print 6.5 liner metres per minute of blankets and can run for 24 hours non- stop unlike traditional screen printing processes, minus the nuances of screen preparation and cleaning. Even the samples would be very much close match to the mass production because the machine can make both in a cost-effective manner.

Market research shows that people are now looking for woven carpets rather than tufted carpets because the quality is superior when used in case of areas having bigger footfalls, as the pile has better structure and the carpets once woven are completely flat when laid on

the floor, unlike the tufted ones which tend to roll from the edges. Unfortunately, India is completely out of this segment and is in fact importing millions of metres of tile carpets because there is no manufacturer of such a product in the country. Martin questioned the business logic of not producing something which has a huge demand in the market. “The manufacturing is also simple and one just has to add another back coating line,” he argued. As of today, carpet tiles are manufactured in China, Japan, Australia, Brazil and Indonesia and with the demand growing consistently in Europe and USA, even USA based companies are now getting into this category. The biggest reason for the growth of this segment is low maintenance costs, and if a tile is stained one doesn’t need to replace the whole carpet, but just replace the tile with a similar one from the stock, which is not possible at all in any other type of carpet. The tiles are made in rolls and then cut out.

S. Rajendran, Vice President, Textile Engineering – Processing, ETP and Utilities, A.T.E. Enterprises shared that they are very upbeat of the

potential of the technology as the domestic consumption of carpets is growing with infrastructure development taking place at very high speed and majority of carpets for this segment are presently imported. “The focus of production units should be on automation since there is high attrition rate and consistency of the product quality, and both these factors play a critical role in success in the international markets,” said Rajendran.

A.T.E. as a company has in its continuous effort to improve their after-sales service and providing complete package to the home segment, have recently developed a cell of technologists with active collaboration of industry consultant TriStar for training of executives especially for this segment. Stress is being laid on improving process technologies in carpets. “Processing has been one of the weak links of the Indian textile industry and now more and more manufacturers are focusing on sustainability and by collaborating with top brands like Monfort’s, Zimmer and Fong, we have even developed a separate carpet division for looking after the same,” concluded Rajendran.

(L to R) Horst Ros, Sales Director, Zimmer Austria; S. Rajendran, Vice President, Textile Engineering – Processing, ETP and Utilities, A.T.E. Enterprises and Martin Basset, Sales Manager, Zimmer

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With business picking up for most exporters, and domestic market also booming, the recently concluded GTE saw visitation from all segments of the garment manufacturing industry looking for technology to add value to their operations. Understanding the need of apparel manufacturers and realizing their mindset, machine companies offered a wide range of products and price points to attract the market. As usual, the domestic segment thronged the show with needs of upgradation and expansion, while most of the manufacturers for exports were just ‘seeing’. Interestingly, either the people had come with a very specific requirement of machinery or were there at the fair just to look at the latest developments.

Many visitors came from smaller upcoming manufacturing centres

like Indore, Nagpur, Surat, Gorakhpur, Jodhpur, besides visitors from Chennai, Bangalore, Kolkata, Ludhiana and Jaipur, which are already known hubs. While a lot of the companies from the smaller towns have interesting product basket and are manufacturing quality too,

they find it difficult to grow, particularly in the export market as buyers are reluctant to visit their factories. Yet, these small units are looking to invest with very specific needs mostly centred on sewing and value adding machines. A lot of companies like Juki, Brother and Orbito (Mehala) had displayed semi-industrial machines for embroidery, printing and

decorative stitches, which are suitable for such manufacturers.

Even in the export segment, companies are looking to bring more and more processes under their roof as controlling the supply chain when outsourcing is a big problem often leading to delays and missed delivery dates. So there was renewed interest in embroidery and printing machines for in-house

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TeChnoLoGY SoLuTIonS For ALL LeveLS AnD SeGMenTS oF MAnuFACTurerS

GARMENT TECHNOLOGY EXPO

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Anil Peshawari, MD, Meenu Creation (3rd from left), in deep discussion with the team Eastman and ALT

Wicrant Gambhir, GM – QA, PPC & SNS, Lifestyle International looks on while Anshuman Dash of Loiva Intech operates a machine

Ajit Lakra (L), MD, Superfine Knitters, Ludhiana with Manpreet Singh Walia of MAK International

(L to R) Sanjay Jain, Director, Bonjour; Gianpiero Valsecchi, Sales Area Manager, Santoni, Italy; Raj Kumar, MD, Bonjour; and Brent Wu, Export Director, Xinchang Hongwei Machinery

Upbeat with his new job, Neeraj Varma, President, Orient Craft (Centre) with Deepak Mohindra, Editor-in-Chief, StitchWorld & Apparel Online

Viraf Turel (L), Chairman, EH Turel & Company with Virender Uppal, Chairman, Richa Global Exports talking about a technology

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3

5 6

4

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hIGh ProFILe vISITorS AT GArMenT TeChnoLoGY exPo

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activities. The team from Pearl Global was looking for machines for value addition especially to duplicate the work which is being done on Adda, if possible. Even Vam Hi-Fashion Garments (Orient Fashions) was searching for options in embroidery segment.

In the retail segment the brands/retailers are looking to invest in sampling units with machines for value additions like printing so as to give faster turnarounds in the stores. The brands are supporting the manufacturers, which are mostly small units having 20-50 machines and who can give quality as per market and price point needs, with both product development and production knowhow. “The factories are relatively smaller with tailoring systems and it is up to us to ensure that the product is manufactured right and gives value for money for our regular customers,” said Wicrant Gambhir, GM - QA, PPC & SNS, Lifestyle International, Max Retail Division.

An interesting observation made was that with international retailers now looking at smaller quantities, many of the small and mid-sized export companies are now going back to the concept of piece-rate tailoring from assembly lines as the costs of training and retention are too high to bear in such a competitive scenario for labour.

According to many of the technology providers, expansions are happening in full swing not only from the existing players but also with a lot of new players. The machine dealers have realigned themselves to offering a complete set of solutions for various customer needs,

instead of feeding only very specific needs. Moreover the display of the companies like IIGM, HCA, Turel and Mehala was very generic and holistic in nature, and not aligned with a certain product category.

While Denim washing has been in focus at GTE for the past two years with a dedicated denim zone, this year saw the entrance of new players like Metod, which was showcasing at the IIGM booth. Also creating a buzz was sewing machines for denim manufacturing with pioneer Vibemac at the centre of attraction and new entrant was Focus which claims of having machines with similar applications in jeans manufacturing, but at much more economical prices.

Among the new technologies at the GTE which attracted attention was ‘bonding’ with high-end manufacturers showing great interest. Stitch-free garments as a segment is doing very good in India with both the domestic and export market going forward with the same. Besides the stitchless shirt manufacturers, lingerie manufacturers in the country are also looking at bonding machines. H&H marketed by Loiva in India, and a great draw at the fair, has already registered a project for manufacturing stitch-free outerwear jackets with Decathlon, and machines would be installed in GE’s facility for the same. Loiva has also developed a complete project for manufacturing stitch-free shirts for Arvind. Surprisingly, PFAFF despite being the first company to develop such machines did not display the same at the fair.

With such diverse products to see, it was heartening to see a mix

of top exporters, big domestic brands, medium and small level manufacturers from across the country, along with their top level management, technical teams, consultants, job workers and students from various institutes visit the fair. Moving towards expansion/upgradation were companies like Pearl Global Industries, Shahi, Orient Fashions, Orient Craft, Richa Global, Jyoti Apparels, Celestial India, Radnik Exports, In Time Garments, Meenu Creation, Pearl International, Indigo Apparels, Maharana of India, Sterling Apparel Manufacturing (Jordan), Superfine Knitters, Jawandsons (Oster Group) S K Exports, Neetee Clothing, Eveline International, Pooja International, Landmark Group (Max), Benetton India (UCB), C&A, Bodycare International, Zonac Knitting Machines (Bonjour), Vasu Clothing, VK Bajaj & Co. (Romance), etc. to mention a few.

As cost is becoming a major decider for manufacturers, many technology providers had economy models to offer. MS Orange, Surat offered the entry level printing with MS JP5 Evo. Studio Next, Mumbai offered complete cutting room solutions at reasonable price. Many companies offered products with some advancement or with few changes to deliver more value at very little additional cost. An interesting point that was strongly observed was that most of the apparel manufacturers are now talking to technology providers on how to get customized solutions. It is no more about what is being sold, but what the industry needs… and the machine manufacturers and suppliers are responding with the same enthusiasm.

Many of the small and mid-sized export companies are now going back to the concept of piece-rate tailoring from assembly lines as the costs of training and retention are too high to bear in such a competitive scenario for labour.

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Agent - ALT/IIGM

Eastman introduces versatile spreading machines for handling all kinds of fabrics from knits to denim

Syed Hafeez, Country Manager and Akira Hirata, Managing Director, Eastman-CRA, content with the response the company has been getting from the booming Indian domestic market

GTE Review

not want the customer to suffer because of different fabric types and roll sizes, so we decided to introduce a single machine which can spread multiple fabrics. When he buys from Eastman, he should not regret that he didn’t buy this or that. He should be able to do everything in one machine!” This machine was sold out to Vinita Synthetics Fashion at GTE, and is already installed at KLIX Jeans, Killer and Shahi Exports, the machine even has software which can alter the fabric tension according to the fabric type. The machine also has photo sensors which prevent any accident by detecting danger the moment an operator places his hand inside the machine.

Compared to the other machines in the market, this machine has been competitively priced with low maintenance charges. Hafeez asserted that the ROI period is 2½ to 3 months with wastage produced in the machine to be as low as 1% as opposed 4-5% when done manually. The machine enables super lower position for material loading in order to save labour with enhanced structure which makes machine reliable. The advanced end cutter design ensures fabric end cutting with quality and uniformity. A timing belt and encoder system present in the machine helps in maintaining accurate spreading length.

Eastman agrees that the time in which it has entered this market, the competition is very high and there is actually an over supply. Hafeez concluded that, “Success became certain for them due to the ‘legend type’ brand name of Eastman as people who like Eastman also went for their automated solutions.”

A company with more than 12 decades of experience

in the field of cutting room solutions, Eastman Machine Company practically needs no introduction. Eastman offers industry’s widest range of handheld and manually-operated fabric cutting machines as well as a comprehensive line of fully automated, computerized cutting, spreading and plotting systems. Manufactured with the highest quality materials, built to precise specifications, and subject to rigorous testing, Eastman’s line of cutting systems has been setting the standard over a century.

able to make good quality garments at a reasonable price due to the availability of machines at a lower price, which would result in India producing 3 times more than what it is producing right now.

Having been known worldwide for its manual and handheld cutting room solutions like the straight knife Blue Streak II, the company registered equal success in the newly launched automated cutting and spreading solutions at GTE 2014. Eastman introduced their new model of multi-purpose fabric spreading machine ES-1800W and

Today, Eastman has solution for virtually every cutting requirement. “In past 3 months, business in the Indian market has been growing and 2014 is predicted to be a great year since manufacturing in China is reducing and even Bangladesh is having political unrest, discouraging buyers to invest,” informed Syed Hafeez, Country Manager, Eastman. He also envisioned that if the excise duty goes down on machinery import, then Indian garment manufacturers would be

ES-1800F equipped with end-cutter with bushless motor which extends life of machine with least wear and tear and optional static eliminator to eliminate friction while spreading. It can spread in two forms, i.e. face up and face-to-face with maximum fabric widths of 72 cm and load capacity of 180 kg with help of drive cloth bar with dual extension which helps in regulating fabric tension.

Informing about benefits of installing this machine, Hafeez explained, “We do

“We decided to introduce a single machine which can spread multiple fabrics. When a customer buys from Eastman, he should not regret that he didn’t buy this or that. He should be able to do everything in one machine!”— syed hafeez

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Agent - EH Turel

VibEmac re-emphasizes its position as the market leader in automats for jeans manufacturing

(L to R) Xerrxex Doodhwal of Turelmac; Enrico Guerreschi, Global Sales Director, Vibemac; and Viraf Turel, Chairman, EH Turel & Vo.

We have a monopoly in the denim export market and we have been successful in tapping into the domestic market too which is a big prospect for any technology manufacturer,” excitingly said Enrico Guerreschi, Global Sales Director, Vibemac Spa.

Highlighting the importance of Indian domestic sector further, Enrico muses, “India has a population of 1.5 billion which is almost twice the population of USA and Europe put together. This is a market no one can ignore. The only problem is that on an average an Indian wears a jean for 3-4 years. When this number would rise to even one jean a year, we will be looking at a market of 1.5 billion jeans per annum.”

Enrico believes that the Indian domestic sector no more lacks the will to invest

in technology. “Right now if a manufacturer makes 300 jeans with 30 workers, using our automated solutions, he can produce 1000 jeans in the same space with the same number of workers. Once the manufacturer sees this advantage, they find us a better option to the cheaper sewing alternatives,” explains Enrico.

Amongst the machines in focus was the 2261HR Feed of the Arm unit, best suited for back yoke, back rise, in-seam and out-seam plus top stitch operations in jeans, casual trousers, work clothes and denim clothes in general. A special belt puller grants very fast feeding and perfect matching between the sewn parts. In terms of productivity, 2261HP can work at 4999 RPM; this high speed can be achieved only due to its several outstanding features, like oil feeding lubrication, design and construction quality, puller device and a special sensor for the dynamic pressure presser foot control (DCP system). This system avoids all the skip stitching troubles also on the crotch double thickness, the most critical point for every feed of the arm machine existing in the market.

Also of interest for many visitors was the 3022WB406, automatic waistband unit, which is entirely manufactured in Italy. The machine is capable of waistband application on jeans, casual trouser and denim jackets. The remarkable simplicity of design, the improvement in speed and electronic management of material transport makes 3022WB406 a perfect unit that meets every kind of fashion requirement desired by the jeans and trouser manufacturers.

Vibemac has always been at the forefront of

delivering automated sewing solution to the apparel industry for manufacturing denim jeans and trousers. The Italian pioneer with more than 30 years of experience in servicing the global apparel industry was present at the GTE with his product range. “The last year has been a tremendous success for us.

“Right now if a manufacturer makes 300 jeans with 30 workers, using our automated solutions, he can produce 1000 jeans in the same space with the same number of workers. Once the manufacturer sees this advantage, they find us a better option to the cheaper sewing alternatives.” – Enrico Guerreschi

The 3022WB406, automatic waistband unit, which is entirely manufactured in Italy, is capable of waistband application on jeans, casual trouser and denim jackets.

GTE Review

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iiGm presents a gamut of new products and technologies for the reviving indian apparel manufacturing industry

performance and function of any make or model of inspection by giving it measuring and analytical capabilities. Right from operator performance monitoring to improved material utilization, these two retrofits have it all up their sleeve.

The recently launched Setec labeller is capable of marking cut parts since it is endowed with the flexible nature of the identification of cut parts. The flexibility does not end at cut part identification since Setec Labeller can be used on all standard table widths and makes.

Continuing the exciting show of innovations, Metod Makina, a leading Turkish machinery manufacturer, who specializes in Industrial Curing Ovens for Garments since 1998, displayed its range of Dye and Chemical Application Cabinets, 3D Crinkle Machines, Denim Effect Apparatus, Pressing Machines, Rodeo Machines and Automatic Chemical Application Equipment, Spray Guns and Temperature Measurement Labels.

Speaking of the stance of the industry’s growth in Indian context IIGM’s Managing Director, Pavan Kapoor said, “The Indian Garment Industry has always been challenged by the likes of China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Indonesia, etc. We all know what the result of this challenge was! The Indian Export Graph is nowhere compared to these countries. Having said this, the Indian Apparel story is showing strong signs of revival. The basic inputs which go to make a success story are still strongly prevalent in India, compared to other apparel manufacturing countries.”

Founded in 1979, when the Indian RMG sector

was in its infancy, IIGM has gone on to transform its role in the industry from a trading company to a giant technology partner. Emerging as a solution provider in all aspects of manufacturing including electrification and infrastructure, IIGM is driven with a strategic intent to serve its clients by finding the best technology and value-added service solutions that improve their work processes and business results. IIGM has continuously strived to ethically merge the world’s

based equipment, and textile processing equipment, the group is unwaveringly leaping forward to ensure that India is the most preferred destination for Textile and Apparel sourcing in the world. Such a commendable far-sightedness is only reinforced further with IIGM being among the few aboriginal technology partners who value skilled workforce enough to contribute to the domain with a training institute of their own.

Present at the GTE-2014 held last month, IIGM had to its credit a catalogue studded with new systems from Nixtex, Setec, Metod Makina and Strobel. With the inclusion of Nixtex in its offerings to the industry, IIGM brought to the fair the future of colour matching systems, spreading and fabric inspection. Nixtex have developed C-tex RM to provide optimum handling and utilization of tension sensitive fabric that can handle up to 80 kg of roll weight. The threshold can be increased on special request. While C-tex FIM is a fabric inspection solution with data collection and analysis that can handle a wide range of rolled materials, from tension sensitive Lycra to the stable cotton. The colour matching system or C-tex Colour, the roll batcher monitors colour deviation of rolls throughout the length and at a minimum 3 points across the width and then batches together rolls with consistent colour to be ready for cutting together therefore eliminating colour mismatching in garments and other sewn goods. Further expanding the catalogue were two innovations – C-tex Colour and C-tex Master. Fundamentally, both are retrofits that augment the

Team IIGM - Raghav Sharma, Director; Kartik Kapoor, Head – New Products; Pavan Kapoor, Managing Director

GTE Review

best technology with the most talented professionals, so as to provide paramount solutions, value-added services and applications support to industries ranging from textile to electrical systems in India.

Representing the world’s leading companies like Juki, ETON, Yamato, Gerber, Eastman, Ngai Shing, Hashima, Tonello, Wilcom, GSD and Barudan in all areas of apparel manufacturing including automated cutting, industrial sewing, finishing machines, washing and garment treatment equipment, productivity

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Agent - India Agencies (IIGM)

JacK unveils its DI series machines reducing operator’s input

In the pursuit to make the most productive

sewing machines, very few machine manufacturers design sewing machines with focus on decreasing labour fatigue. With concern for the same, the Chinese pioneer New Jack Sewing Machine Company unveiled its new Jack E series computerized lockstitch machines, at the GTE

JK-768BDI direct drive high speed overlock sewing machine

Focus GarmEnt tEch develops Asia-specific range of denim bottom sewing technologies

Having made a name of itself in the Asian apparel

manufacturing sector by making available suitable automation to the garment manufacturers, Focus Garment Tech has gone a notch above by developing automatic sewing machines for denim jeans manufacturing, in association with the Chinese sewing machines pioneer Supreme. Representing the company at the GTE fair, Foo Toon Pow, Managing Director, Focus Garment Tech shared, “These solutions are a very mature move from our company towards providing automated sewing solutions to denim bottom manufacturers

have been developed specifically for the price-sensitive Asian market and a price tag of 50% lower of the competition, which has already found success in the already saturated markets of China and Bangladesh.

Focus attributes the selection of Supreme; the OEM of the sewing automates as a partner to its R&D centric thought process as a machine manufacturer and the progressive mindset of the company’s top management. “As a manufacturing company, Supreme has no match in China when it comes to R&D and now coupled with our industry reach and marketing

and, which besides us, only three companies have.” The range of sewing automates includes SNAS-2201G-JPPS-SN double needle machines for back pocket decorative stitch, SNOL-254 belt loop setters, J-stitch sewing machines, single and double needle back pocket setters. The machines

skills, it is a win-win situation for both the companies,” said Foo Toon Pow.

The company’s first prerogative is saving the manufacturers costs in terms of labour and electricity consumption. “We actually start thinking like a garment manufacturer, that is why we are able to develop solutions that can help a garment manufacturer in reality,” informed Foo Toon Pow. Another highlight of the company’s solutions is the use of standard spare parts which can be brought from the local market easily. Moreover to service the influx of orders for the new range of denim bottom sewing machines, Focus would be setting up its own office in Bangalore with its dealer New Horizon Systems, which would be housed by Chinese technicians for servicing all the machine users in much more robust manner.

Foo Toon Pow, Managing Director, Focus Garment Tech

GTE Review

installation convenient which helps in two ways, making the shop floor technically compliant and improve workers health and safety. Owing to the electromagnetic mechanism, the adjustment of presser foot height is convenient and quick. With a streamlined double switch design, bar tacking button and half stitch buttons have been added right above the presser foot, which makes operations more convenient.

Equipped with an LED light of adjustable

luminance at the needle point, different types of

requirements can be met. Bestowed

with an integrated panel design, a perfect

combination between control system and enclosure offers a larger operation space, low error rate and convenient installation.

Jack also showcased its range of direct drive sewing machine, JACK DI series, equipped with energy saving servo motor instead of traditional clutch motor, which reduces electricity consumption by 71% and increases the operator efficiency by 45%, when compared with the normal sewing machine. The direct drive motors now come with an extended 3 years warranty.

show, which is equipped with an internal foot lifter electromagnet mechanism which greatly improves the work efficiency and reduces the intensity of work/input required from an operator.

This sewing machine uses an automatic presser foot lift mechanism to help improve product quality and the thickened machine body, reducing the noise and vibration levels. Further, the electro-mechanical integrated design makes

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“We have more than 5 years of experience in making automatic solutions for sewing. These machines can further aid the companies in reducing their dependence on labour.” – Victor Lu

Agent - EH Turel

WEishi partners up with EH Turel & Co. to deepen the reach of its finishing and pressing equipment

Victor Lu (L), General Manager, Weishi with Viraf Turel, Chairman, EH Turel & Co.

For any software-based company, the most

critical task is to preserve its Intellectual Property Rights by making sure only the legalized and original versions of its softwares are used around the globe by all its users. However, with the advent of internet-based peer-to-peer sharing platforms, the use of legalized softwares has been compromised in an adverse manner and the same situation is being tackled by the Australia based Wilcom, which is developing cutting edge software for producing accurate and precise embroidery designs. Established in 1979, Wilcom is today present in over 100 countries with products in over 12 languages and has a global community of more than 2,50,000 licensed customers.

Among the best solutions for embroidery design development, software from Wilcom are used extensively as pirated versions and with India being the world’s biggest embroidery product manufacturers, the Asian country becomes the core of Wilcom’s anti-piracy drives. “With most of the manufacturers using low-cost Chinese machines, it is difficult for most of them to

Agent - IIGM

Wilcom taking up the ‘war against piracy’ for use of legalized versions of its embroidery design software

GTE Review

has 20 authorized patents, 5 of which are invention patents and software copyrights.

Present in India since 2003, Weishi has now partnered with leading technology agent E.H. Turel to deepen its root in the Indian market. “It’s been 11 years for us in the Indian market, and while we have done well in Bangalore and Chennai, we weren’t able to perform as expected in the Delhi market. For the same reason we have partnered with E.H. Turel as

the company has better reach to diverse market regions in the country,” revealed Victor Lu, General Manager, Weishi. Victor believes that the rise in labour wages has created great opportunities for Weishi as the manufacturers are forced to look for solutions promising productivity improvement. The brand is well known in the Indian market with implementation in companies like Raymond.

One of the major concerns for the industry today is power and savings on electricity, as the consumption adds on to one’s margins, thus more and more machine manufacturer’s aim at developing energy-efficient machine. Weishi’s pressing machines do not use electricity for any extra heating as the steam’s heat is efficiently used for that purpose. “What really differentiates Weishi from the competition is the work that we are putting into reducing the pressing time by bundling the best combination of hardware and software system, as that would proportionately reduce the volume of steam that would be consumed, increasing the productivity at the same time,” explained Victor.

For any company dealing in technology, after-sales service is one of the key differentiators. “We have our office in Bangalore and now anyone can reach out to various offices of E.H. Turel for assistance on our machines. Meanwhile, we are continuously organizing training programs. Weishi normally has two of its technicians stationed in Bangalore all over the year,” explains Victor.

AZT-018 is a trouser side seam pressing automat from Weishi with a computerized control system for steam time, pressing time, and vacuum time. The head and buck shapes have separate vacuuming, steam spray and blowing function.

Founded in 1992, Shanghai Weishi Machinery specializes

in manufacturing of finishing and pressing equipments for apparels, along with equal expertise in producing automatic sewing machines, conveyor hanging system and special auxiliary equipments for garment manufacturing. The company has ISO 9001-2000 quality management system certification, with most products having CE certification in Europe and ETL safety certification for shirt pressing equipment to North America. The company

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Agent - EH Turel/Mehala

PFaFF extending the reach of its offering to automotive, furniture and other heavy duty sewn product segments

The German manufacturer of sewing machines, workstations and solutions for not only the apparel

but the complete sewn product industry, PFAFF Industrial needs no introduction. The pioneer’s recent re-alignment as a sewing solutions provider for the heavy duty segment of furniture and automotive upholstery has put the Indian segment of automotive upholstery manufacturing under international spotlight. “We have launched a new line of heavy duty machines under the name Powerline, targeting the automotive industry, which is brimming with opportunities and has a bright future ahead keeping in mind the population of the country,” said Axel Zangerle, Managing Director, PFAFF Industrial. He further added, “The manufacturers can no more use basic machines for car upholstery and air bag sewing, as the quality demands would expect them to move to more consistent and productive machines, a segment where we lead the market.”

Participating at the recently concluded GTE show, PFAFF was showcasing with Mehala. Agreeing to the price-sensitive nature of Indian manufacturers across all its product ranges, Axel reasons, “We have a manufacturing facility in China since the 1990’s, making cost-competitive machines with the same quality and performance benchmarks and as far as our high-end automates are concerned, manufacturers seeking consistent quality are already using our machines.”

Enjoying consistent growth in the Indian market with a diverse range of sewing solutions, PFAFF claims to have a uniform distribution of customers all over the country. Coming to the apparel segment, PFAFF’s solutions are synonymous with manufacturing suits, shirts and trousers, and on the same lines the company showcased its new PFAFF 3588 automatic pocket setters for work on jeans and work wear. In production of jeans and workwear, the Class 3588 can also be used as a combination machine, i.e. both pre-folded and unfolded pocket blanks can be used. A patented gear system provides for optimum intermittent feeding of the work-piece, guaranteeing feed stop when the needle enters the material.

“Most of Indian customers are job workers and have a very tight budget when it comes to converting to legalized software. Hence, we make available to them easy installment-based financing options.”

Axel Zangerle, Managing Director, PFAFF Industrial

– Janos Horvath, Channel Manager – West Asia, Wilcom

GTE Review

buy embroidery software which is at times equivalent to the price of the machines. Our company has launched a worldwide campaign to educate and compel unlicensed users to come forward and legalize their products. The campaign is currently the prime focus of our company and in the last fiscal year the conversion from pirated to legal versions contributed to 75% of our revenue. As for selling new products, we already have a clientele of high-end manufacturers and we are quite satisfied and secured on that front,” says Janos Horvath, Channel Manager – West Asia.

For conversions, the focus is on the ESP 2006 version of the embroidery software, as most of the manufacturers prefer legalizing their existing version of the same. Although there is an option of updating to the new software, sticking with the same version saves them from undergoing additional training to understand the changes in the new version. The latest E3 version of the software enables the user to make efficient designs by not only using the least stitches possible but also encompassing the aspects of sequin and double-sequins

as per the design, which is very commonly used by many saree manufacturers.

Since using unlicensed software is punishable by law, Wilcom performs 3-4 raids in a month, and Janos first choice is to reach a cordial solution with embroiders by educating them about the benefits of using a licensed version. So far, the response to this initiative has been stupendous, with Wilcom, converting roughly 1000 embroiders every year, bringing the tally to 2,500 in India. More than the presence of other embroidery software providers, the real challenge for a high-end solution provider like Wilcom is to get the pricing right. “Most of Indian customers are job workers and have a very tight budget when it comes to converting to legalized software. Hence, we make available to them easy installment-based financing options for conversions,” asserts Janos. For the same purpose, the company in collaboration with IIGM has opened up training centres in Delhi and plans to open more in regions like Tirupur, Jaipur, Surat, Kolkata, Mumbai and many more.

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Agent - Rajasthan International

Groz-bEcKErt showcases special needles for different products

Agent - HCA

zoJE realigns with HCA for deeper penetration into Indian market

Groz-Beckert, world’s leading provider of

industrial needles, precision components and fine tools, which has been providing services to the garment industry for over 150 years, has become a synonym for needles. Inspired by starting late in sewing needles in comparison to the knitting needles market where the company enjoys an unsaid monopoly, the company has fast caught up to become a market leader by setting standard which other companies follow. “We started with basic needles in sewing,

In a move to attract bigger manufacturers and spread

their high-end technology in the ripe Indian apparel industry, China based Zoje has realigned with HCA and was seen at the fair exhibiting with other brands that HCA represents. “Though we have been in the industry for a long time now, we found that our machines are still running in small- and medium-sized factories and that too the more basic ones, so it became imperative to work through an agency that had a wider reach and was known and respected by the big players of the industry,” reasons Douglas Zhu, MD, Zoje Sewing Machine.

With technology that is reputed in China for its quality and has been receiving recognition as the most advanced sewing machine

and are fast adding special purpose needles like San 6 for denim sewing, or San 10 and the latest San 10XS for ultrafine fabrics,” said S. Kanwal, DGM, Division Sewing Machine Parts, India & Nepal.

Groz-Beckert is ahead of the curve when it comes to competition, however it should feel some heat with the overflow of cheaper Chinese needle manufacturers into the country. Kanwal argues, “We offer the highest in quality needles along with special purpose solutions. While all the needles in general are

coated with chromium, we also have needles coated with titanium nitride, which are golden in colour and can withstand higher friction and is more wear resistant.

For example, using a titanium nitride coated San 6 needle,

one can drastically reduce

needle breakage while

working with a heavier fabric.

Our competitors might be a

bit cheaper, but what’s the use

if their products break often

and cause machine downtime,

ultimately costing much more.”

of an exclusive Zoje service centre,” informs Douglas.

“Not many people know that Zoje has some unique machines that not many others can offer. Now with HCA, we will work to get our machines into the big factories like we have in Sri Lanka, because having machines in the right kind of factories is publicity in itself,” argues Douglas. Though Douglas admits that the Indian domestic market is a huge draw and is attracting many technology providers, for Zoje, the focus is still the export market. “I feel there is huge scope for upgradation even in the export manufacturing setup in India and it is this segment which is our core area of concentration, though we will feed the domestic market but with more basic machines,” concludes Douglas.

coming from the country, supported by the Government for its R&D efforts, Zoje has already marked its presence in the European market, but now the focus is to concentrate on the Asian market which is huge. “We have intensified our efforts in Asia and this year India will see the development

Groz-Beckert team: (sitting L-R) S Kanwal, DGM Sales – Sewing Machine Parts; Rajesh Bihani, MD, Rajasthan International; and Sanjay Sharma, Area Incharge – North Area, Sewing Machine Parts

(L to R) Douglas Zhu, MD, Zoje; Anil Anand, MD, HCA; and Roben Wu, Overseas Sales Director, Zoje

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loiVa now markets complete ‘stitch-free’ apparel manufacturing solution

Team Loiva Intech with Anshuman Dash, Director - Marketing, Loiva Intech (4th from left)

Suitable automation for apparel manufacturing

has always been the thought process behind each and every solution from Loiva Intech for the apparel manufacturing sector. However, in the recent times the company has moved forward to become a complete outerwear apparels manufacturing solution provider, by offering machines from the Chinese pioneer, H&H Asia Group specializing in development and manufacturing of bonding and welding technologies for joining seams without a needle and thread. Highlighting its bonding and welding solutions at the GTE, show Anshuman Dash Director - Marketing, Loiva Intech shared, “We have been marketing H&H for more than two years now and as of now we have a total of 200 installations all over India, for waterproofing and

washes are available for the industry to witness.

The reasons for the rise in manufacturing of bonded apparels not only in India but all over the world is due to the high quality finish guaranteed by the machines, which avoids the common quality issues like puckering and an uneven seam. “This is not a cost-effective proposition but the people who are seeking the next level of finesse and perfection in apparel

manufacturing would go for such technologies,” opines Anshuman. Apart from the price, the features which have made such success possible for the company in the competitive Indian market, is the presence of a larger working area in the bonding machines, compared to the competition because the garments manufactured are outerwear jackets and bottoms which require a larger area for efficient handling.

GTE Review

seam sealing applications.” The

company has been a complete

project for producing stitch-

free cotton shirts and samples

of the same shirts after 20

unix stitch machinEs supporting the industry with knowledge and technical service

One of the few indigenous embroidery machines

manufacturers, Unix Stitch Machines has proved to be a competent company which has understood the need to align technology with the changing needs of fashion and has thus been successful in meeting the demands of its customers. Established in 2004, the company has installed more than 8000 machines in the past, majorly in Surat, followed by Ahmedabad, Jaipur moving towards their new business domain of Delhi- NCR with their technical support team, placed in Surat, Ahmedabad and Jaipur.

Explaining their effective marketing and machine development strategy, Sanjay Jha, Director of Unix Stitch Machines claims,

Sanjay Jha, Director, Unix Stitch Machines

“We keep on developing new machines with varied technologies to feed imagination of customers, for which we keep ourselves acquainted with the latest market trends to maintain our superiority in the market compared to Chinese machine manufacturers.” Their major customers have been Orient Fashions, ATM Exports, Jindal Weaves and Sivasakhthi.

The company had on display a vast range of products at the GTE 2014. The mixed coiling machine from the

company can perform various functions like flat, sequins and coiling (cord, tape and zigzag). Double coiling and double sequins device add further value to the handwork embroidery machine, that can do up to 5 lakhs stitches in 12 hours with speed of 850 RPM with coiling device for doing antique embroidery, cording, moti work, beads works, aari work and stitch length up to 4 mm, the machine requires no maintenance. The price and quality are the major parameters which are non-negotiable on any condition with the company. The company has also developed an 86-head embroidery machine with all the capabilities of lower head machines.

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Agent - Beacon International

GEmsy looking forward to seize 2014 with its new range of power saving sewing machines

After being at the forefront of innovation

in terms of automation, electronics, reducing manpower requirement while increasing productivity, Gemsy made its presence felt yet again at the GTE 2014 by displaying its range of direct drive single needle lockstitch machine capable of power saving in partnership with Beacon international.

Gemsy’s new range of high-performance, cost competitive and efficient sewing machines, have been developed keeping in mind the needs and requirements of the Indian apparel manufacturing industry. “We are sure that these new machines can help the Indian manufacturers save on the

operating cost and improve the productivity,” confirmed Victor Xu, South Asia Sales Manager – International Trade Department, Gemsy.

The third generation Gemsy GEM8957E3-Y (direct drive) is certainly a winner since it is not just a power saver but impressively cost-effective as well. Speaking of the crisis of 2013 and its repercussions, Victor said, “The beginning of the year was slow but we managed to sell over 8000 machines the last year.” Catering majorly to the exporters, RK Bansal, MD, Beacon International indicated at their vast network of dealers in the country. “We have a grip over Delhi-NCR, Rajasthan, Ludhiana and Uttar Pradesh. These are the regions which usually generate great demand,” he said.

Backed with six manufacturing plants in China that can manufacture as many as 13,000 machines a day, a network that spans over 112 countries over the world and excellent after-sales service, Gemsy is keen on plugging every gap in the supply chain to provide the industry with the best machines at the best price.

RK Bansal, MD, Beacon International with Victor Xu, South Asia Sales Manager – International Trade Department, Gemsy

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mEhala ensuring success by focussing on tapping new market segment while ensuring commitments as a service provider

balance of suitable automation and brand value while selecting a technology.

The market has seen an upward graph for Mehala with not only the existing companies expanding and upgrading the manufacturing systems, but even with a lot of new guys entering the industry and looking at setting up plants right from the scratch. “The projects are of such scale that we are helping people to design the buildings also, so we have an entire project team working on it. In the future we might look at hiring civil engineers and architects for designing building, seeing the new projects,” adds Ashim and believes the sustenance of the industry lies on the aspects of skill development and technology upgradation.

Apart from servicing the core export and domestic manufacturing segment of the country, Mehala has also diversified its focus towards catering to the Ordnance Factories of the country, which most of the companies are averse at working with due to their tedious and long drawn procedures like L1 tenders. “We have actually visited those factories and created a need for automation in such manufacturing facilities. Recently you witnessed lot of tenders being floated by such manufacturing facilities for producing shirts, trousers and other sewn products,” shared Ashim. The company has also been focussing on the unorganized domestic manufacturing sector of the country by dedicating a separate sales force for the market segment and developing a strong sub-dealer network, as this segment accounts for high daily sales like a retail model.

The phenomenon of ‘Continuous Improvement’

is equally necessary for a business enterprise as for a manufacturer, irrespective of the nature of business. The same has been imbibed by Mehala Machine India in its operations as a provider of solutions for the apparel industry from companies like Duerkopp Adler, PFAFF Industrial, Siruba, Topcut Bullmer and many more companies of equal brand value. The Tirupur-based company with presence all over India through 10 offices and 400 sub-dealers, Mehala has in the past one-and-a-half years added a lot of critical technology providers to its product portfolio.

Spearheading the company’s representation at the GTE show was Ashim Das, CEO, Mehala. “We have focussed on regaining customer confidence not just by talking to them or visiting them regularly, but by performing in terms of reliability as a service and technical support provider,” said Ashim. The company provides round the clock service to many of its key customers and due to such dedication and commitment as a service provider Mehala has not only regained some brands and principals to its product portfolio but has also added many new ones. “Like with the inclusion of PFAFF’s heavy duty sewing machines into our product portfolio, we now have a complete set of sewing solutions for the heavy duty sewn product segment of the country, which was missing earlier and we were not able to tap the top segment of the industry,” claims Ashim, who looks at maintaining the right

Team Mehala (sitting L to R) – C Subramaniam, Chairman, Mehala Machines India and Bernd Bräuer, Heading Duerkopp Adler’s global sales division. (Standing L to R) – Haitao, General Manager, Topcut Bullmer; B K Mohanty, Sales Manager, MACPI; Axel Zangerle, Managing Director, PFAFF Industrial; S Bharath, Director, Mehala Machines India; Henry Bindhak, Area Sales Manager - Asia, Duerkopp Adler; and Ashim Das, CEO, Mehala Machines India

GTE Review

“Besides being a professionally run company, we have never lost the personal touch when servicing the industry as it is about building relationships, but on the other hand we have well defined systems in place for working as an efficient and transparent organization.”– C Subramaniam, Chairman, Mehala Machines India

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APRIL 2014 StitchWorld 45APRIL 2014 StitchWorld 45

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Yuxiasheng (L), Manager, Zhujihengy Import & Export Co. Ltd. with Prateek, MD, Peayush Machineries

PEayush machinEriEs set to storm the market with diverse range of solutions from Dayu

The advancements showcased this time in GTE 2014 were new machines for manufacturing ‘Muslim caps’ with capacity of 200 caps per hour by method of circular knitting offering multiple colours and various styles besides displaying a single head tubular machine with 5 lakh stitches/day which can do embroidery over caps, T-shirt, apparels with automatic colour change and thread which has got many customers in Mexico indicating upsurge of cap manufacturers there. Apart

Among the few Indian technology providers

with presence in over 20 countries, Peayush Machineries has been dealing mostly in computerized embroidery machines from Chinese principle Zoje Dayu. Recently, the company had been working on diversifying their product portfolio to create stronghold in the market with their authentic products of Dayu and some other companies as well.

The success of Dayu has been synonymous to the change in the preference of the market for ‘value for money’ technology. But it is not just the price factor that is working to the advantage of Dayu, which according to Prateek, MD, Peayush Machineries is much ahead of its counterparts in terms of technology and flexibility. The need of the market is changing every 6 months and to adapt to the same, big brands require one to buy new software and upgrade existing machinery.

GTE Review

Studio Next with very strong R&D centres in Germany, Romania and Japan and subsidiaries in countries

like USA, has earned the reputation of a cutting room solution provider for the apparel, textile and other flexible materials industry. It partnered with Richpeace and Yin Japan group, the major players and manufacturers of CAD/CAM solutions, to bring the best and the latest technology to GTE’14.

Vishal Sher of Studio Next talking about the way the market is moving this year shared, “The market is still confused, but there are new projects coming up. We have placed ourselves at a reasonable price point and the market has started to recognize our quality. We are getting a lot of enquiries and we are selling 4-5 CAD systems a month.”

Studio Next has a completely new series of cutters, especially for Automobile Upholstery, consisting of new software to cut hard materials or multiple plies. A lot of parameters such as vibration of the blade, optimum vacuum, punching system for better grip have been incorporated into the system.

As the market of volume garments is already shifting to Bangladesh and people in India are doing low volume garments which are value added, the orders are no more perennial. “The manufacturers have a choice between manpower and technology. In the phases where there is absence of orders, the manufacturers have to pay the operators to retain them, even if they sit idle; the other option is for them to use technologically upgraded machines that can be switched on when needed and sit idle with negligible cost. Keeping the cutter idle is a better proposition than keeping manpower idle,” believes Vishal.

studio nExt offers cutting room solutions at “reasonable” price

(L to R) Rajesh Kumar, CEO, Studio Next; Yimin Ni, Regional Director, South Asia, Yin Japan; and Vishal Sher, Managing Director, Studio Next

The secret behind company’s growth has been latest technology along with good service facilities which steals the show. The company has a dedicated team for training the customers; they also arrange industry visits for prospective customers.

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morGan tEcnica presents FOX 50 spreader from its Fusion series of cutting room solutions

electronic device checks and eliminates the fabric tension in real time, for real tension-free spreading while with the special folded device with a motorized spiral roller, Morgan Fox 50 can spread open folded knit fabric with unique quality results. “The spreaders

Morgan Tecnica a leading Italian manufacturer of

cutting room solutions ranging from cutting, speading, plotter, CAD/CAM software and other similar technologies has achieved remarkable reputation in the market for its technologies since their commencement of operations in India in 2008. The company believes in providing entire solutions for dealing with different fabrics, spreading and cutting situations rather than just selling a particular machine, and their business has been growing. Talking about their business growth expectation for 2014, Anandakumar D, MD, Morgan Dynamics asserted,

Ultra-wide ink jet, which is a noiseless and widely compatible plotter. Morgan’s Leonardo plotter is equipped with inkjet technology, available in 2 or 4 heads. “With reporting system present in plotter you can calculate consumption of paper in metres and even use low GSM paper and widely available HP refill for printing with head cleaning mechanism,” averred Anandakumar about the plotter. Besides, linear encoder has been utilized to guarantee maximum precision even on very wide format prints. All the components of the series come along with user-friendly and interactive software Morgan Analytics which enables to

Anandakumar D (5th from left) MD, GA Morgan Dynamic the Indian subsidiary of Morgasn Technica with his team

GTE Review

from these both, a software solution was also displayed which can make embroidery using thicker thread of 1600 denier possible in comparison to ordinary embroidery machine systems which can just use thread up to 160 denier and bring the cost down with least cost and 30-40 mm stitch length.

Prateek describing about utility of the software states, “This software would make handloom embroidery, leather embroidery and car seat embroidery much easier.” They also featured computerized flat knitting machine with double carriage with designs such as jacquard, intarsia which was asserted to be similar in technology of Shima Seiki with good market in Ludhiana.

Talking about their success in business and their targets in 2013, Prateek informed, “We have registered annual turnover of Rs. 64 crore, crossing sales of more than 1000 machines and would be focusing on making it to Rs. 100 crore in 2014 end.” Besides this he also mentioned that their key strength lies in featuring innovative technologies with variations over period of time since “most of the designs and working systems are copied by others.” The secret behind company’s growth has been latest technology along with good service facilities which steals the show. The company has a dedicated team for training the customers; they also arrange industry visits so that the client’s operators can see the machine working at various factories.

“In sales we were 20% higher in 2013 than 2012, and we are expecting more this year, probably 20-25% more.”

At the 2014 edition of the GTE show, the company displayed Fox 50 spreading machines from the Fusion range of spreading machines, presenting new frontiers in the field of spreading, as the machine can spread any kind of material, from elastic and light fabrics in rolls as well as in open folded bundles. The double PVC belt allows laying of even difficult fabrics like lycra in easy manner. An

view the spreader data in real time over web with visual representations in form of statistics and graphs.

Today, Morgan is working with companies like Raymond, Orient Craft, Arvind and Gokaldas Exports. Recently, the company has also completed some MTM related projects which will simplify entire cutting process. To improve service network, apart from having service centres in Delhi and Bangalore, the company is looking to open a new service centre in Mumbai to look after customers of that region.

are compact, versatile and flexible, guaranteeing top performances in spreading, in terms of quality and productivity with good ergonomic design,” added Anandakumar. The machine has maximum speed of 100 metres per minute with spreading width of 180-230 cm with automatic edge alignment by photocells. The machine generates fabric usage report with capacity of storing 24 different parameters profile.

Another significant product was the Leonardo 100/200

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Career Oriented Training Programs for Apparel Industry Professionals – II

5S – First step towards LEAN

Career enhancement is the aspiration of each and every employee in an organization. But why would a company promote you to a higher managerial position unless you have something to offer besides just the experience of working more years in a particular profile. Apart from the professional degrees/diplomas as basic stepping stone, picking up a small training course of topical relevance certainly helps in adding to your credibility in the area of your chosen expertise. Through its career enhancement series, StitchWorld is discussing different certifications in disciplines that may improve the working of a garment industry. In the last issue, Six Sigma Training Institutes were the focus…, in this edition certificate courses in 5S are discussed in detail.

integral part of each of the original 5S phases, however the additional focus can ensure that we do not otherwise overlook potentially hazardous situations which may have escaped our initial look whilst in the grip of the excitement of implementing changes that have made our work place more efficient and easier to operate.

A seventh phase, "Security", is often added to leverage security as an investment rather than an expense. The seventh 'S' identifies and addresses risks to key business categories including fixed assets (PP&E), material, human capital, brand equity, intellectual property, information technology, assets-in-transit and the extended supply chain. The additions of the 'S' s are simply to clarify the benefits of 5S and is not an inclusive methodology.

The 5S methodology is a simple and universal approach that

works in companies all over the world, essentially as a first step towards lean implementation and support to other manufacturing improvements such as Just-In-Time (JIT) production, Cellular Manufacturing, Total Quality Management (TQM), or Six Sigma initiatives, and is also a great contributor to the aesthetics of the workplace.

5S is a system to reduce waste and optimize productivity through maintaining an orderly workplace and using visual cues to achieve more consistent operational results. The term refers to 5 steps – sort (Seiri), set in order (Seiton), shine (Seiso), standardize (Seiketsu), and sustain (Shitsuke) – also known as the 5 pillars of a visual workplace.

A sixth S, "Safety", is sometimes added to five S. Safety is an

Tech Talk

5S as a concept has evolved with time and two new S’s – 6th ‘S’ for Safety and 7th ‘S’ for Security – have been added as an extension to the same. These additions make the concept much more holistic in nature, taking under consideration the dynamic and volatile nature of today’s industry.

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For industry personnel who are looking for 5S certification to enhance their knowledge and contribute more to their factories, there are various training programs running. Following is the list of some of them:

SSA Business SolutionsSSA Business Solutions was founded in 1999 by NC Narayanan (NC), with a missionary zeal to partner with Indian businesses in creating world-class products and services that would effectively counter the threat of globalization. Starting out modestly as a Management Systems consulting firm, SSA has added several capabilities over the years including Lean, Six Sigma, Performance Scorecard, Change Management, and Leadership Development.

The consultancy offers a one day training and certification program for 5S. Targeting quality personnel, production engineers, and lean personnel, this course covers the definition of 5S, “waste” identification methods, the 5 steps to improvement, creating a visual workplace, introduction to a 5S audit process, selection of a pilot project, 5S project implementation and review, sustenance of a 5S program, in-depth review of the benefits to an organization.

With 5S Training, the participant will be able to generate a structured program to reduce waste, hidden in workplace that results from uncontrolled processes, apply control techniques to eliminate erosion of improvements, standardize improvements for maintenance of critical process parameters, provide the right conditions for 5’s ‘sustainability’.

http://www.ssa-solutions.com/training-program/5S-training.php

SGSSGS is the world’s leading inspection, verification, testing and certification company, recognized as the global benchmark for quality and integrity. The company employs more than 80,000 personnel operating in a network of more than 1,650 offices and laboratories around the world.

The 5S Lead Auditor Training at SGS is designed to give you the relevant skills and knowledge to carry out audits of the 5S principle and assess its use by organizations to build a culture of continuous improvement, while maintaining a quality management environment.

Training aims at inculcating an in-depth understanding of the principles and objectives of 5S, knowledge of 5S Audit and Certification parameters. The principles, processes and techniques used in 5S and their significance in the work environment is explained, enabling the participant to perform 5S critical analysis, along with the knowledge needed to plan, conduct and report third-party audits against the requirements of the 5S.

http://www.sgsgroup.in/en-gb/Training-Courses-Seminars/Subject-Specific-Training/Quality/Business-Process-Improvement/5S-Lead-Auditor-Training-Course.aspx

Global Solutions IndiaGlobal Solutions India is a leading management training and consultancy organization, offering a complete range of professional consultancy and training in the field of Lean Six Sigma, TPM (Total Productive Maintenance), 5S, SMED, Makigami, 7QC tools and Gemba Kaizen (Work Place Improvement), etc. The company carries open enrolment programs, as well as in-house training programs.

5S Facilitator Course offered by global solution is an instructor led online training program through a virtual classroom webinar. The coming date for this program is 11th May 2014 and the registration will close 48 hours before the scheduled program date or on reaching the maximum number of participants for that program, which are 25. One can attend the program between 10:00 hrs to 16:00 hrs Indian Standard Time (+5.5 hrs GMT) from anywhere in the world on all the training days.

For the successful completion of the program, the participant has to take the Online Exam (Comprising of 30 Multiple Choice Questions) and score more than 70%.The 5S Facilitator Certificate can then be received as a softcopy within 2-3 working days.

To take advantage of this virtual course one would require Laptop/Desktop (with speakers) and internet connection with a minimum internet speed of 256 kbps.

http://globalsolutionsindia.in/trainings/oe-programs/5s-training-facilitator-course

Centres for 5S Training Programs

Tech Talk

5S programs are usually implemented by small teams working together to get materials closer to operations, right at workers’ fingertips, and organized and labelled to facilitate operations with the smallest amount of wasted time and materials.

Implementing the 5S method means cleaning up and organizing the workplace in its existing configuration. This lean method encourages workers to improve their working conditions and helps them learn to reduce waste, unplanned downtime, and in-process inventory. A typical 5S implementation would result in significant reductions in the square footage of space needed for existing operations. It also would result in the organization of materials into labelled and colour coded storage locations, as well as “kits” that contain just what is needed to perform a task.

The 5S methodology is typically implemented using a 3-step process, which includes establishing a cross-functional team (including employees that work in the associated areas), touring all areas associated with the manufacturing process under review, and brainstorming on ways to improve organization to reduce waste. (For detailed information on the process you can check out article “Lean Manufacturing – The 5S Way”, published in StitchWorld, October 2007).

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50 S

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Mini Schiffli Embroidery Machines

Embroidery Area:110x330x1200 For 86 Head and 165x330x1200 for 56 Head

High Speed Embroidery Machine

UNIX High Speed Embroidery Machine Productivity is achieved by ultra-precise control 1200 RPM in standardembroidery, which can meet various consumer demands for creation of high value-added embroidery work.

Sequin can be programmed into the design data or loaded manually via the control panel

Semi-auto Rhinestone Rank Machine

Machine with high speed, reduce the worker working time, can finish multi colour in short time with the high efficiency.

The stone plate, paper same as the traditional manual working.

Low energy consumption


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