MAN AND THE H O R S E

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Exhibition Checklist

M A N A N D T H E H O R S E Presented by Polo/Ralph Lauren

A checklist to the exhibition at the Costume Institute, December 3, 1984, through September 1, 1985

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Copyright © 1985 by The Metropolitan Museum of Art Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Bradford D. Kelleher, Publisher John P. O'Neill, Editor in Chief Barbara Burn, Editor Anne Gozonsky, Designer ^

Contents Introduction

Tack Room

Hunting Gallery

Red Gallery

Green Gallery

Blue Gallery

Blue Gallery (Vitrine)

Tweed Gallery

Ramp Gallery

Sporting Gallery

Racing-Silks Gallery

Credits

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2

8

14

19

24

28

35

39

43

45

54

Introduct ion The noble beauty of the horse has always inspired man to make an equally handsome appearance. The horseman's careful attention to each detail of the tack, to the design of each accessory, and to the impeccable tailoring of each piece of clothing gives evidence to his respect for the horse and to his own self-respect as well. In this sense, the Costume Institute's exhibition is far more than a survey of riding apparel; it is in essence the history of a very special style, one that is still preserved today in equestrian costumes worn by sportsmen throughout the world. This booklet, prepared from label copy in the exhibition, serves as a guide through the galleries and as a supplement to the Museum's major publication Man and the Horse. Each gallery is organized thematically—some around specific sports and some around a particular

lifestyle, but all celebrate the beauty of horses and their accomplished, elegant riders and attendants.

We would like to take this opportunity to express our appreciation to the many individuals and organizations who made the exhibition possible through generous loans of riding apparel and equipment, and through welcome advice about the specifics of dressing for these very special activities.

jean L. Druesedou Associate Curator in Charge The Costume Institute

T a c k R o o m (clockwise)

Royal Saddle French, Louis XV, about 1760 Gold velvet surrounded by royal-blue velvet, embroidered in floral and fruit pattern and fringed in silver thread Lent by Musée de l 'Armée, Paris

Thomas de Keyser Dutch, 1596-1667 Cavalier Oil on canvas Bequest of Ogden Mills, 1929 29.180.1

Pair of Flintlock Pistols French (Paris), 1809-15 Rogers Fund, 1904 04.3.190, 191

Saddle English, Charles II, about 1660 Leather faced in blue velvet embroidered in silver and gold thread in floral crown motifs Private collection

Carriage Cloth English, early 18th century Red wool trimmed with silver lace and passementerie appliquéd with linked C's Probably belonged to John Creed Gift of Bill Blass, 1984

Wooden Horse French, 18th century Lent by Bottega Veneta, New York

Caparison with the Arms of Baron de Montmorency French, 1750-85 Wool and silk Possibly made for Anne-Léon 1 e r de Montmorency (1705-85) Perhaps Aubusson Gift of James Hazen Hyde, 1953 53.50 '

Stable Equipment Horse Medicine Stand Wooden Tack Trunk Saddle Blankets Wooden Buckets

Brass Harness Brackets Lent by the Rockefeller family

Quarter Blanket, Cooler, and Wool Dress Blanket American, 20th century Navy-blue wool with yellow wool trim and appliquéd initials " P M " Lent by Paul Mellon

Horse Blanket and Hood French, 4th quarter 19th century White wool crossbarred in red Lent by Madame la Comtesse Guy de Beaumont

Quarter Blankets American, 20th century Blue wool with red trim and appliquéd initials " W J " Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of the Estate of Walter Jennings, 1965

Saddle French, 1984 Red leather

Made by Hermès Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Saddle English, 20th century Leather Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Saddle English, 20th century Leather Used by Mr. Thomas Hitchcock, Sr. Lent by Mrs. Louise H. Stephaich

Saddle American, 20th century Leather Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Child's Stock Saddle American, 20th centurv Leather Lent by the Rockefeller family

Saddle French, 20th century Leather Made by Hermès, Paris Lent by Paul Mellon

Two Sets of Pair Harnesses American, 20th century Leather and brass Lent by the Rockefeller family

Ceremonial Shabrack Green wool bound with gold braid with embroidered cypher of Elizabeth II of England Lent by the Royal Mews, Buckingham Palace

Military Saddle British, 20th century Leather Lent by the Royal Mews, Buckingham Palace

Postilion Saddle English, 20th century Silver-mounted leather bearing the

HohenzoUern crowns Made by Champion and Wilton, 459 Oxford Street, London Lent by Mr. and Mrs. John M. Seabrook

Saddle French, Napoleon III, 2nd half 19th century Black leather with decorative stitching Made for the Equipages de l'Empereur Lent by Musée de l'Empòri, Salon de Provence

Saddle Circassian, early 20th century Black leather with silver ornaments This saddle belonged to Gamid bey Chejokoff. Lent by Mr. and Mrs. Constantino Sidamon-Eristoff

Stall Plaque Awards 20th century Lent by the United States Equestrian Team, Inc.

Spanish Riding School Bridle Austrian, 20th century Lent by the Spanische Hofreitschule, Vienna

Polo Bridle American, 20th century Lent by Mrs. Louise Stephaich

Pclham Bridle American, 20th century Lent by the Rockefeller family

Rolled Snaffle Bridle French, 20th century Lent by Hermès of Paris, Inc., New York

Double Bridle American, 20th centurv Lent by Paul Mellon

Bridle Algerian, about 1850 Lent bv Musée de l'Armée, Paris

Algerian Saddle Algerian, about 1850 Green velvet embroidered in gold thread and green silk, trimmed with sequined tassels and silver plates Lent by Musée de l'Armée, Paris

Racing Saddle American, 20th century Leather Made bv Martin 6k Martin, London, New York, Philadelphia Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Racing Saddle American, 20th century Leather Made by Deluxe Saddlery, Baltimore Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Racing Saddle English, 20th centurv Leather Made by Whippey, London

Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Sidesaddle American, 19th century Leather and suede Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Woman's Saddle French, 17th century Red velvet with back and foot rest that can be used on either side of the seat Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Sidesaddle American, 20th century Leather Made by Martin 6k Martin, London, New York, Philadelphia Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Spanish Riding School Saddle Austrian, 20th century White suede with red wool saddle blanket trimmed with gold galloon

Lent by the Spanische Hofreitschule, Vienna

Sidesaddle American, 19th century (?) Leather Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Sides addle American, 20th century Leather Made by Martin 6k Martin, London, New York, Philadelphia Lent by the Rockefeller familv

Woman's Sidesaddle British, 20th centurv Leather and suede Stamped "E. W. Mayhew's Improved Grip, 62 Seymour Street, London, N W " Lent by Denise Lee

Harold Sterner American, 1895-1976 Horse Accoutrements: Bridle, Saddle, Stirrup Leather and Girth, Bit, Stirrup, and Blanket, 1 9 6 9 Watercolor on paper Lent by the Paul Mellon Collection, Upperville, Virginia

Harold Sterner American, 1895-1976 Horse Accoutrements: Breeches, Cap, Coat, Boots, Gloves, Horn, Crop, Spurs, Garter, 1969 Watercolor on paper Lent by the Paul Mellon Collection, Upperville, Virginia

Sidesaddle French, about 1840 Leather and white suede with trapunto work Lent bv the Hermès Collection, Paris

Miniature Cavalry Saddle, Bridle, and Saddle Blanket French, about 1890 Officer's brown leather saddle; blanket of black wool trimmed with white Made as a model for a competition awarding a saddle contract for the Army Lent by Musée de l 'Armée, Paris

Buffalo Bill's Bridle English, 1892 Tooled leather and silver Presented to Buffalo Bill Cody in 1892 during the Earl's Court Exhibition Lent by The Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody, Wyoming

Saddle Mexican, late 19th century Leather and silver Presented to HRH Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, by Colonel Buffalo Bill Cody Lent by the Royal Mews, Buckingham Palace

Driving Whips Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gifts of Mr. and Mrs. William Gartelmann, 1958, Mrs. F. L. McCrea, 1959, Mr. and Mrs. Myron Bonis, 1954, Museums Collection

Driving Whips Lent by Swain, Adeney, Briff 6k Sons Ltd., London

Fly Whisks Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gifts of Mrs. R. W. Salmon, 1970, Mrs. Erwin Pruyn, 1960

Riding Crops Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gifts of Mrs. John Van Schick Bloodgood, 1965, Ester and Leah Davis, 1953, Mr. Herbert Macauley, 1954

Hunt Whip Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Tracy Higgins

Hunt Crops Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gifts of Ester and Leah Davis, 1953, Bequest of Marion Shotter, 1973

Coaching Horns Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Coaching Horn English, 1914 Silver plate Made by Boosey's 6k Co., Regent St., London and Richmond Presented by Hoffman, Esq., for the best performance of the coach at the Royal Horse Show, 1914; won by Horace Clark, age 18 years, June 19, 1914 Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mr. Horace Clark, 1970

Tandem Coach Horn English, about 1890 Brass Used by John R. ("Tandem Jack") Townsend when he drove his tandem leader for a bet through the revolving doors of the old Waldorf Hotel Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Lida F. Bloodgood, 1958

Saddle Stand American, 19th centurv (?) Wood Made by Hughes Bros., New York Lent by H. Kauffman 6k Sons Saddlery Company, Inc., New York

Parade Saddle, Bridle, and Breastplate American, early 1940's Tooled leather with gold and sterling-silver ornaments depicting lite in the West Made by Edward H. Bohlin for his own use Lent by Gene Autry

Mission Saddle, Bridle, and Breastplate American, 1927-30 Tooled leather with sterling-silver ornaments depicting the various missions in California Handcrafted and handtooled bv Edward H. Bohlin Lent by The Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody, Wyoming

H u n t i n g Gallery (clockwise)

Woman's Hunting Habit from the Equipage de Vouzeron French, late 1970s Coat of red wool trimmed with royal-blue velvet, gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; brass buttons with relief of a stag; black wool apron skirt Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, Indre-et-Loire

Man ' s Hunting Habit of the Equipage du Luart French, before 1919 Coat of navy-blue wool trimmed with mustard-yellow wool; brass buttons with silver relief of a running stag, inscribed "Rallye Là Haut"; breeches of navy-blue corduroy Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, Indre-et-Loire

Jean Richard Goubie French, 1842-99 The Prize for the Hunt, 1872

Oil on canvas Bequest of Collis P. Huntington, 1900 25.110.54

Master of the Hunt of the Equipage de Montpoupon French, about 1930 Coat of red wool trimmed with red (amarante) velvet, gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; brass buttons with " M " in silver relief; vénerie belt with whip and hunting dagger; red (amarante) wool breeches; vénerie boots worn with white cotton vénerie stockings Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, Indre-et-Loire

French Hunting Horn French, 20th century Brass, d'Orléans type Made by C. Jesnon Lent by H. Kauffman 6k Sons Saddlery Company, Inc., New York

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Livery for a Whipper-in of the Equipage de Montpoupon French, about 1930 Short jacket of red wool trimmed with red (amarante) wool, gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; red (amarante) wool vest; brass buttons with " M " in silver relief; breeches worn with white cotton vénerie stockings and high-topped shoes; cap of black wool trimmed in vénerie galloon to show his rank; whip; horn Worn by the whipper-in of M. Bernard de la Motte Saint Pierre Lent by Mile Solange de la Motte Saint Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, Indre-et-Loire

Man ' s Hunting Habit from the Equipage de la Chesnaye French, about 1920 Coat of dark-green wool trimmed with grey wool and with gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; brass buttons with silver relief of a roebuck, inscribed "Pic Dre la Chesnaye"

Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, Indre-et-Loire

Woman's Hunting Habit of the Rallye de l'Aigle French, about 1910 Coat, jacket, vest, and skirt of grev wool trimmed with red (amarante) velvet and gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; brass buttons with silver relief of a wild boar Worn bv Elaine Greffulhe, Duchesse de Guiche Label: Boursin, 61 rue de la Boetie (Paris) Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Woman's Hunting Muff French, about 1910 Muff of roebuck fur trimmeei with seven roebuck teet Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Pans

Workshop of François Clouet French, active by 1536-died 1572 Henry 11 (1519-59) , King of France Oil on canvas, transferred from wood Bequest of Helen Hay Whitney, 1944 45.128.12

Man ' s Coat from the Equipage du Luart French, before 1919 Coat of grey wool trimmed with mustard-yellow wool attached shoulder cape; brass buttons with silver relief of a running stag, inscribed "Rallye Là Haut" Worn by the Marquis du Luart after the hunt while returning to the stables Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, Indre-et-Loire

Man ' s Hunting Habit from the Rallye Bonchat French, betore 1919 Coat of grev wool trimmed with red and with gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; silver buttons with brass reliei of a roebuck head, inscribed "Rallye

Bonchat Morde on Mes Beaux" Lent by Mlle Solange de la Motte Saint Pierre, Château de Montpoupon, Indre-et-Loire

Woman's Hunting Tricorne French, about 1900 Hat of black felt trimmed with black ostrich feathers, gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; silver button with brass relief of a running stag, inscribed "Rallye Chambly"; monocle attached to brim Worn by Madame la Princesse Joachim Murat Label: Motsch, 42 Avenue de l'Alma, Paris Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

M a n ' s and Woman's Hunting Habits of the Rallye Chambly French, about 1900 Coats of light-blue wool trimmed with red (amarante) velvet; silver buttons with brass relief of a running stag, inscribed "Rallye Chambly" Worn by Monseigneur le Prince et Madame la Princesse Joachim Murat

Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Man ' s Hunting Habit French, dated 1910 Coat of light-blue wool trimmed with red velvet and with gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; brass buttons with silver relief of a stag head, inscribed "Quand Même" Label: Pomadère Ernest Leroux 6k Cie, 4 Chausée d'Antin (Paris) Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Wooden Horse Italian (?), 17th century May have been used for saddlery display Lent by Bottega Veneta, New York

Saddle English, 20th century Leather Made by C. H. Wellman Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Man ' s and Woman's Hunting Habits of the Equipage du Champchevrier French, 1st quarter 20th century Coats of rose-beige (doe-belly) wool trimmed with red (amarante) velvet and gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; brass buttons with silver relief of a running stag Lent by Monsieur le Marquis de Blacas, Château d'Ussé, Indre-et-Loire

Woman's Formal Hunting Habit for the Meadow Brook Hounds, Nett' York English (?), 2nd half 20th centurv Cutaway coat of Oxford-grey flannel with collar and vest of Meadowbrook-blue wool; black buttons inscribed "MBH" Lent by Mrs. Alan Corey

Man ' s Hunting Habit English, dated November 1, 1930 Cutaway coat of black wool with buff wool vest and buff leather breeches; black buttons engraved with an " S " Worn by Mr. Robert B. Young, a member of the Shelburne Hunt in

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Massachusetts, when a guest at another hunt. A guest does not usually wear his own hunt colors but may retain his own hunt buttons. Label: Anderson and Sheppard, Ltd., London Lent by James L. Young

Man ' s Hunting Habit for the Shelburne Hunt, Massachusetts American, dated June 2, 1926 Coat of dark-green wool with black velvet collar; black buttons inscribed with an " S " Label: Alfred Nelson 6k Co., 261 Fifth Ave., New York Lent by Mr. and Mrs. James L. Young

James Seymour British, 1702-52 The Albrighton Hunt in 1730 Oil on canvas Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Man ' s and Boy's Hunting Habits for the Deep Run Hunt, Virginia American, dated September 1905

Coat of red wool with grey wool collar; brass buttons Master of Foxhounds has brass buttons with relief of fox head and inscription "Deep Run Hunt" Label: Jacob Ebel 6k Sons, 14 N. Ninth St., Richmond, Virginia Lent by the Valentine Museum, Richmond, Virginia

Man ' s Hunting Habit American, dated October 6, 1924 Coat of charcoal-grey wool with green velvet collar; brass buttons with engraved hound and inscribed "Norfolk" Worn by a member of the Norfolk Hunt when a guest at another hunt Label: P.E. Waltner 6k Co, Boston Mass Lent by the National Museum of American History, Washington, D. C.

Man ' s Hunting Habit English, dated May 7, 1973 Coat of black wool; silver and copper buttons with relief of fox head and

tails, inscribed " P H " Worn by a member of the Piedmont Hunt when a guest at another hunt Label: Huntsman 6k Son, 11 Savile Row, London Lent by Mr. William Wilbur

Woman's Riding Habit for the Meadow Brook Hounds, New York American, about 1914 Coat and apron skirt of navy-blue wool twill with collar and vest of Meadowbrook blue; black buttons with "MBH" in white Lent by the National Museum of American History, Washington, D.C.

Man 's Hunting Habit for the Norfolk Hunt, Virginia English, about 1920 Coat of red wool with olive-green velvet collar; brass buttons with relief of running hound and horn, inscribed "Norfolk" Label: Tautz 6k Co, 12 Grafton St., New Bond St. London W l

11

Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, New York

Man ' s Hunting Habit for the Middleburg Hunt, Virginia American, dated May 25, 1951 Coat of red wool with green wool collar; brass buttons engraved " M H " Worn by Mr. Newell J. Ward Lent by Mrs. Stephen Clark

Man ' s Hunting Habit for the Meadow Brook Hounds, New York English, about 1930 Coat of red wool with grey wool collar; brass buttons engraved "MBH" with a hunting horn Label: Sandon and Co, 8 Savile Row, London Gift of Thomas A. Bradley, Jr., 1981 1981.301

John Woot ton British, about 1686-1765 Portrait of the Fifth Duke of Beaufort on a Pony with His Tutor

Oil on canvas Lent by His Grace the Duke of Beaufort

Man ' s Hunting Habit for the Piedmont Hunt, Virginia: Master of Foxhounds English, dated September 8, 1954 Coat of red wool with yellow wool collar; brass buttons inscribed " P H " Label: Huntsman, 11 Savile Row, London Lent by William Wilbur

Man ' s Hunting Habit for the Smithtown Hunt, New York English, dated March 5, 1937 Coat of red wool with purple wool collar; brass buttons with relief of a running fox and "SH 1900" Label: J. B. 6k F. Wells, London Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. John Bloodgood, 1965

Woman's Hunting Habit for the Smithtown Hunt: Master of Foxhounds American, 2nd quarter 20th century Coat of red wool with purple wool collar; silver buttons engraved "SFH-1900" with a running fox The only occasion for a woman to wear a red hunting coat is when she has been named Master of Foxhounds Label: Nardi, New York Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Frederick Johanns, 1979

Man ' s Hunting Habit for the Westchester Hunt Club, New York American, 1880 Coat and vest of green wool with yellow velvet collar; brass buttons stamped " W . H . C . " Label: John Patterson 6k Company, 25 6k 27 W 26th Street, N.Y. Gift of Mrs. Lawrence Jacob, 1949 CI 49.42. labe

12

Hunt Servant's Coat for the Berkeley Hunt English, dated November 1979 Coat of mustard-yellow wool twill with green wool collar embroidered with a running fox; brass buttons with relief of a running fox and inscriptions "Tally H o " and "BH" Label: Bernard Weatherill Ltd., 33A Dover Street, London Lent by Mr. C. G. M. Lloyd-Baker, M.F.H.

Man ' s Hunting Habit for the Oxford University Draghounds: Master of Foxhounds English, dated September 18, 1967 Coat of charcoal-grey wool cavalry twill with midnight-blue velvet collar; black buttons engraved " O U D H " Label: H. Huntsman 6k Sons, 11 Savile Row, London, England Lent by Frank E. Richardson

Hunt Servant's Livery for the Pytchley Hunt, England English, dated September 1960

Coat of dark Padua-red wool with white wool collar; brass buttons with "PH" in relief Label: Frank Hall, Market Harborough Lent bv Mr. Robin Smith-Ryland

James Sevmour British, 1707-52 Portrait of a Horseman, 1748 Oil on canvas Gift of the children of the late Otto H. and Addie W. Kahn, 1956 56.54.1

Livery for a Whipper-in of His Grace the Duke of Beaufort English, dated April 1964 Coat of green wool with gold buttons engraved "BH" Lent bv His Grace the Duke of Beaufort

Man 's Hunting Habit for the Beaufort Hunt: Master of the Hunt English, dated September 1982 Coat of navy-blue wool with buff woo! lapels; gold buttons engraved "BH" Lent by His Grace the Duke ot Beaufort

Woman's Hunting Habit of the Equipage du Comte de Volon French, about 1900 Jacket of navy-blue wool trimmed in red velvet, gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; brass buttons with silver relief of a stag head Worn by Madame la Princesse Joachim Murat Label: Busvines, 4 rue Marbeuf, Paris Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Man ' s Hunting Habit French, dated 1926 Coat of green wool trimmed with green velvet and with gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; silver buttons with brass relief of a roebuck head, inscribed "Pro Victoria Retro" Label: Sutton, 131 Boulevard Haussman (Paris) Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

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Red Gallery (clockwise)

Child's Boots French, Second Empire, mid-19th century Black leather embroidered with gold thread in Napoleonic insignia; white satin lining embroidered with "Prince Napoléon" Made for the Prince Imperial Eugène-Louis-Jean-Joseph, son of Napoleon III Lent by the Musée de la Chaussure et d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans

Mechanical Toy Horse French, mid-19th century Wood, brass, leather, ivory, silk, and horsehide with Napoleonic insignia Made for the Prince Imperial Eugène-Louis-Jean-Joseph, son of Napoleon III Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Chi id's Saddle French, Second Empire, mid- 19th centurv Leather, with black wool saddle blanket, trimmed with gold galloon and Napoleonic insignia Made for the Prince Imperial Eugène-

Louis-Jean-Joseph, son of Napoleon III Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Benedict Masson French, 1819-93 Le Prince Imperial en veneur à costume de poney, 1 8 6 1 Oil on canvas Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Child's Landau French, 1830-50 Green painted wood with coat of arms; red leather interior Lent by Hermès of Paris, Inc., New York

Man ' s Formal Evening Wear for a Specific Hunt French, dated September 21 , 1933 Tail coat of black wool with pale yellow wool collar and satin vest; brass buttons with silver relief of a wild boar, a stag, and hounds with inscription "Ecoute et Tais To i" Made for Paul Weiss

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Label: James Pile, London; 27 Rue Cambon, Paris; 13 Rue Mazagran, Biarritz. Established 1784 Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Man ' s Formal Evening Wear for the Rallye Anjou-Sologne French, dated 1928 Tail coat of red wool with red faille lapels and royal-blue velvet vest; brass buttons with relief of a roebuck Made for G. Emmanuel Lang Label: L. Larsen 6k Co., 7 et 9 Rue de la Boëtie, Paris Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Man ' s Formal Evening Wear for a Specific Hunt American, late 19th centurv Tail coat of dark-green broadcloth with shawl collar of mustard-vellow silk faille Label: John Patterson 6k Co., 436 Fifth Ave., New York

Gift of Jessie Leonard Hill, 1979 1979.152.1

Man ' s Formal Evening Wear for the New York Coaching Club American, dated October 1961 Tail coat of black wool with black silk lapels; gold buttons with New York Coaching Club insignia Label: Saluzzi, 342 Madison Ave., New York Lent bv George A. Weymouth

Man ' s Formal Evening Wear for the Deep Run Hunt, Virginia American, dated March 1, 1905 Tail coat of red wool with lapels of blue-grey silk faille; brass buttons Label: W. S. Constable 6k Co., Merchant Tailors, Richmond, Virginia Lent bv the Valentine Museum, Richmond, Virginia

Sir Henry Raeburn British, 1756-1823 George Harley Drummond Oil on canvas

Gift of Mrs. Guy Fairfax Carv, in memory of her mother, Mrs. Burke Roche, 1949 49.142

Woman's Riding Juste d Corps French, Louis XV, mid-18th centurv Jacket of red silk woven with gold metallic threads in floral and bird patterns Lent bv Musée de la Moele et du Costume, Paris

Buff Coat German, end of the 17th centurv Leather Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 25.135.87

Woman's Riding Juste à Corps French, 18th centurv Jacket of blue-and-lavender iridescent silk brocaded in a floral pattern Lent bv Musée des Arts de la Mode, Paris

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James Seymour British, 1702-52 Sir Roger Burgoyne upon His Favorite Horse Badger with His Bitch Juno Oil on canvas Lent by the Yale Center for British Art, New Haven, Paul Mellon Collection

Woman's Casaquin de Chasse French, Louis XV, 18th century Jacket of cream-colored patterned silk brocaded in blue, beige, and metallic-silver floral pattern Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Woman's Riding Coat English, about 1760 Dark-brown camlet with light-blue satin collar, cuffs, facings, and attached vest; trimmed with metallic cord and brass buttons Purchase, Mr. and Mrs. Alan S. Davis Gift, 1976 1976.147.1

Jean-Baptiste van Loo (1684-1745) and Charles Parrocel (1688-1752) French, 1723 Equestrian Portrait of Louis XV at the Age of Thirteen Oil on canvas The figure of the king was painted by van Loo, the horse by Parrocel. Lent by Musée du Château de Versailles

Livery French, about 1820-35 Cape of blue wool trimmed with bands of red, white, and green needlepoint Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1983 1983.241.3a

Venetian Servant's Livery Italian, early 19th century Coat, vest, and breeches of red wool trimmed with multicolored woven cotton tape Rogers Fund, 1926 26.56. lOabc

Venetian Servant's Livery Italian, early 19th century Coat, vest, and breeches of mustard-colored wool trimmed with multicolored woven cotton tape Rogers Fund, 1925 25.56.8abc

Man ' s Coat English, about 1735 Brown camlet trimmed with self-fabric buttons Typical of the coats worn by English country gentlemen in the first half of the 18th century Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust Gift, 1984 1984.273

Lion Sleigh French, about 1790 Painted wood Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mr. James A. Keillor, 1953

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Louis-Auguste Brun French, 1758-1815 La Reine Marie Antoinette, 1 7 8 3 Oil on canvas Lent by Musée du Château de Versailles

Woman's Riding Coat English, about 1775 Medium-blue camlet Purchase, Mr. and Mrs. Alan S. Davis Gift, 1976 1976.147.2

Georg Christoph Grooth German, 1716-49 The Empress Elizabeth of Russia on Horseback, Attended by a Page Oil on canvas Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Nathaniel Spear, Jr., 1978 1978.554.2

Woman's Casaquin de Chasse French, Louis XV, 18th century Jacket of cream-colored patterned silk

embroidered with polychrome silk and metallic silver threads Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Woman's Casaquin de Chasse French, Louis XV, 18th century Jacket of natural-colored silk brocaded in polychrome floral pattern Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Armor Italian, about 1575 Steel, partlv gilt, leather, velvet Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.717a-r

Armor for a Horse Italian, about 1575 Steel, leather, velvet Fletcher Fund, 1921 21.139.2

Formal Evening Wear for the London Coaching Club American, dated August 21 , 1956 Tail coat and trousers of Beaufort-blue wool with blue moiré lapels; brass buttons engraved " C C " ; waistcoat of tan wool Label: Bernard Weatherill, New York Lent by Mr. and Mrs. John Seabrook

Evening Dress French, Winter 1939 Metallic silver and white silk broché woven with figures of horses Label: Molyneux, Paris, Winter 1939 Worn by Mrs. Paul-Louis Weiller Gift of Mrs. Harrison Williams, Lady Mendl, Mrs. Ector Munn, 1946 CI 46.4.6ab

Francisque Millet Flemish, 1642-79 La Course de Chevaux Oil on canvas Private collection

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M a n ' s Formal Evening Wear for the Goldens Bridge Hunt, New York American, dated October 10, 1917 Tail coat of red wool with black velvet collar, trimmed with gold metallic braid and ivory satin lapels; silver buttons engraved with a horse and "GBH"

Label: Brooks Brothers, Madison Avenue Corp., 44th Street Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Joseph Wilshire in memory of Mr. Joseph Wilshire, 1958

Man ' s Formal Evening Wear for the Myopia Hunt, Massachusetts American, 1905 Tail coat of red wool with yellow satin lapels; brass buttons with relief of a horn and fox head, inscribed "Myopia" Label: Mitchell, Boston Gift of Mrs. Francis B. Lothrop, 1951 CI51 .59abcd

Imperial Hunting Livery French, Second Empire, about 1855-70 Coat of imperial-green wool trimmed with red-orange (aurore) velvet and gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; silver buttons with brass relief of running stag; vénerie belt with hunting dagger; vénerie boots Lent by Musée de l 'Armée, Paris

Eugène Delacroix French, 1809-68 An Arab Horseman Giving a Signal, 1851 Oil on canvas Lent by The Chrysler Museum, Norfolk, Virginia, Gift of Walter P. Chrysler, Jr.

18

G r e e n G a l l e r y (clockwise)

Francis Sartorius British, 1734-1804 Portrait of "Poppit," 1774 Oil on canvas Lent bv His Grace the Duke of Beaufort

Postilion Boot and Spur French, late 17th centurv Black leather and iron with wooden sole Lent bv the Musée de la Chaussure et d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans

Postilion Livery French, Second Empire, late 1860s Jacket of dark-blue wool trimmed with red and with gold braid; copper buttons engraved with imperial coat of arms; copper sleeve emblem with crowned eagle inscribed "Maison de l'Empereur—Service des Ecuries" Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

Postilion Lu ery French, Charles X, 1825-30 Jacket of navv-blue wool trimmed with

red and with silver trim; silver buttons: silver sleeve emblem inscribed "Poste aux Chevaux-Relais de Mont-Leul-No 1" Lent bv Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

Postilion Livery French, Louis-Philippe, about 1840 Jacket of navy-blue wool trimmed in red with silver braid; engraved silver buttons; silver sleeve emblem inscribed "Poste aux Chevaux-Relais de Clan-No 6" Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

Postilion Livery from the House of the Persian Ambassador to Pans French, Second Empire, mid-1860s Jacket of dark-blue wool trimmed in red with gold braid; copper buttons with the French imperial crown surmounted bv the Islamic crescent. Lent bv Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

19

Postilion Boots French, 1st half 19th century Boots of black leather with wooden soles. The right boot has vertical wooden reinforcement for additional protection from the off-side (right) horse and shaft Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

Postilion Livery for the Coach of Mr. Alfred G. Vanderbilt American, early 20th century Jacket of dark-aubergine wool with ivory collar and cuffs piped in red; brass buttons Lent by The Newport Historical Society, Newport, Rhode Island

Post Boy's Livery English, about 1 7 8 0 - 1 8 1 0 Jacket of yellow wool; waistcoat of white wool Lent by The Colonial Museum of Williamsburg, Virginia

Postilion Livery French, Louis-Philippe, about 1840 Jacket of dark-blue wool trimmed with red and with gold braid; engraved silver buttons; silver sleeve emblem inscribed "Poste aux Chevaux-Relais du Pin-No 4 " Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

Postilion Livery of the House of Monseigneur le Prince de Radziwill French, Second Empire, late 1860s Jacket of navy-blue wool trimmed with red and with white braid; copper buttons engraved "Poste—Mr le Prince de Radziwill" Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

Postilion Boots French, about 1800 Black leather with wooden soles Lent by Musée de l 'Armée, Paris

Postilion Livery American, early 20th century Jacket of aubergine velvet with red satin inner collar; red and silver buttons and metallic silver fringe Gift of Mrs. August Belmont, 1937 CI 37.47.1

Postilion Livery French, Second Empire, about 1852 Jacket of dark-green wool trimmed with red and with silver braid; silver buttons engraved with an uncrowned eagle; silver sleeve emblem with uncrowned eagle inscribed "Poste aux Chevaux-Relais des 4 Chemins de l 'Oie-No 1" Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

Musketeer Boot and Spur French, 17th centurv Brown leather stamped with a fleur-de-lys on the cuff Lent by Musée de la Chaussure et d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans

20

Postilion Livery for the Coach of Mr. John M. Seabrook English, dated February 13, 1959 Jacket of dark-blue wool with silver buttons Label: Simpson and Sons, 63 S. Audley Street, London Lent by Mr. and Mrs. John M. Seabrook

Pair Harnesses German (Bavaria), probably 19th century Leather with silver plate and vermeil hardware with Wittlesbach crest Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mr. Dieter Holterbosch, 1969

State Chariot French, 1875 Chariot body (coupé) hung on cee-springs; footman's seat; coachman's seat covered with hammer cloth; five bevelled-glass windows; gold-and-silver-plated hardware; upholstery'of silk damask; quarter panels bear the

coats of arms of Amelia of Spain and Prince Adelbert Wittlesbach From the stable at Nymphenburg; believed to have been made for the Bavarian ducal family Made by Binder-Ainé, Paris Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Dieter Holterbosch, 1963

Coaching Livery of the Whitehouse Family American, 1st quarter 20th century Coat of navy-blue wool with black velvet collar; brass buttons with the Whitehouse crest; vest of blue-and-vellovv striped cotton Lent by Charles Whitehouse

John Ferneley British, 1782-1860 The Drag of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, 1 8 4 3 Oil on canvas Lent bv the Yale Center for British Art, New Haven, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. J. Richardson Dilworth

Coaching Livery of Mr. Alfred G. Vanderbilt American, dated October 19, 1911 Dark-aubergine wool; steel buttons with " A G V " in relief Label: John Patterson, New York and Newport Lent by The Newport Historical Society, Newport, Rhode Island, and The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Paul Moore, 1972

Coaching Livery of the Pyne Family American, dated December 1, 1905 Coat of navy-blue wool with navy-blue velvet collar; silver buttons; inner collar of blue-and-buff striped cotton Label: John Patterson 6k Co., 2 6k 4 W. 33rd St., New York Lent by Mrs. C. Suydam Cutting

Coaching Livery of the Right Honorable Earl of Rosebery English, in the style of 1820s Coat of dark-green wool trimmed with silver galloon; silver buttons with coat of arms in relief; dark-green velours

21

breeches with matching trim; vest of yellow-green wool. Label: Henry Poole 6k Company, 21 Clifford Street, London Lent by Henry Poole 6k Company, London

Coach Guard's Livery of Judge William Moore American, about 1910 Coat of blue wool with cream wool collar; cuffs and pocket flaps trimmed with metallic gold braid; brass buttons engraved "Rockmarge" Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Paul Moore, 1966

Coach Guard's Livery of Mr. William K. Vanderbilt American, dated August 1930 Coat of red wool with ivory wool lapels; cuffs and pocket flaps trimmed with metallic gold braid; brass buttons engraved " V " Label: J. K. McLennan, Newport, R.I.

Lent by The Newport Historical Society, Newport, Rhode Island

Alfred de Dreux French, 1810-60 Portrait de M. et Mme A. Mosselman et leurs deux filles, 1 8 4 8 Oil on canvas Lent by Musée du Petit Palais, Paris

Coaching Livery of the Whitehouse Family American, 1st quarter 20th century Coat of navy-blue wool with brass buttons with the Whitehouse crest; inner collar of blue-and-yellow striped cotton Worn by the "tiger," the small groom positioned at the back of the coach Lent by Charles Whitehouse

Solange Tessier French, 19th centurv Promenade au Bois de Bologne: Attelage à la Daumont, i860 Lithograph

Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museum Purchase, 1982

Livery and Accoutrement for a Postilion of the Messageries Royales French, Charles X, about 1825-30 Coat of navy-blue and red wool trimmed with silver braid; engraved silver-plated buttons; arm band with silver-plated shield bearing the royal crown and coat of arms inscribed "Messageries Royales de l'Eclairé"

A postilion rides the near-side (left) horse of a team or teams, either precluding the need for a coachman or serving as a coachman's assistant. Aspects of the costume distinctive to the 19th-century postilion are the top hat of hard leather; the sisal wig with four pairs of braids tied at the back; the heavy wooden-soled boots to protect the postilion's legs from the powerful vibrations of the carriage transmitted by the shaft; the short-handled whip.

22

Distinctive aspects of the accoutrement are the saddle with a locking brass pommel where gold coins were carried; the postilion's bedroll in front; the leather mail trunk on the back; large stirrups to accommodate the boots; the bridle with the royal coat of arms on the boss. Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

Francis Sartorius British, 1734-1804 Portrait of "Pippin," 1771 Oil on canvas Lent by His Grace the Duke of Beaufort

23

Blue Gallery (clockwise)

Woman's Riding Habit: Amazone French, about 1830 Jacket and skirt of medium-blue wool trimmed with round buttons covered in silk thread Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Woman's Riding Cap: Casquette d'Amazone French, about 1830 Cap of black velvet trimmed with black silk braid and tassel Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Man ' s Coat American, 1840-50 Beige linen Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1970 1970.281.8

Child's Basket Saddle Late 19th or early 20th century Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Sir Henry Raeburn British, 1756-1823 The Drummond Children Oil on canvas Bequest of Mary Stillman Harkness, 1950 50.145.31

Girl's Riding Habit French, 1887 Jacket, sidesaddle skirt and cap of dark-green wool; black satin buttons Label: Maison Georges, Chaussée d'Antin 29, Paris Gift of Mrs. Warren Brewer, 1982 1982.109. labe

Girl's Riding Habit American, about 1886 Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of blue wool trimmed with narrow gold braid and brass buttons Lent by the National Museum of American History, Washington, D. C.

24

Woman's Hunting Habit for the Pau Hunt, France English, 2nd quarter 20th centurv (jacket and vest dated August 4, 1937; skirt dated January 15, 1941) Jacket, breeches, and sidesaddle skirt of navy-blue wool twill; jacket trimmed with green collar; vest of ivory wool twill; black buttons engraved with insignia of the Pau Hunt Label: Roberts and Carroll, London Gift of Mrs. Frederick H. Prince, Jr., 1978 1978.329.2a-d

Woman's Riding Habit English, about 1925 Coat and apron skirt of navy-blue wool Label: Busvines, 4 Brook St., London Lent by Mr. Charles Whitehouse

Woman's Hunting Habit for the Pytchley Hunt, England English, dated November 4, 1936 Coat and sidesaddle skirt of black wool twill with white wool collar;

black buttons engraved "PH" Label: Robert Douglas, Ltd., New-Bond St., London Gift of Mrs. C. Suydam Cutting, 1978 1978.472. lab

Sir Alfred J. Munnings British, 1878-1959 Tu'o Busvines and a Cutaway Oil on cam Lent by Mrs. G. Maxwell Moran

Woman's Riding Habit English, about 190 Jacket and sidesaddle skirt ot dark-green and black wool Lent bv The Brooklvn Museum, New York

Woman's Riding Habit American, about 1872 Jacket and sidesaddle skirt oi dark-green wool with black satin buttons Gift of Miss H. W. Knight, 1941 CI 41.145.3a-c

Woman's Riding Habit American, about 1880 Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of dark-blue wool; silver buttons Gift of Claggett Wilson, 1941 CI41.146.3ab

Alfred de Dreux French, 1810-60 L'Ecuyère Kippler sur sa Jument Noire Oil on canvas Lent by Musée du Petit Palais, Paris

Woman's Ridmg Habit English, about 19V Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of black wool Worn by Anna Gould, Comtesse Boniface de Castellane Label: Busvine, 4 Brook Street, W. (London) Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

25

Woman's Riding Habit American, 1890 Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of navy-blue wool Worn by the donor when riding in Central Park Label: J. White, 786 Fifth Avenue, New York Gift of Mrs. J. H. Mandlebaum, 1953 CI 53.49ab

Woman's Riding Habit American, about 1894 Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of black wool Label: A. J. Muller, New York Gift of Mrs. W. Bayard Cutting, 1940 CI40 .106 .32ab

Johannes Lingelbach Dutch, 1623-74 Hawking Party Assembled at a Country Mansion Oil on canvas Purchase, 1871 71.115

Theatrical Costume French, about 1947 Jacket and skirt of black wool; attached vest front of black moiré; jacket trimmed with black silk braid and buttons Made in the style of the 1880s for the Jean Cocteau play L'Aigìe a deux têtes Label: Pierre Balmain (Paris) Lent by Beverly Birks

Woman's Riding Habit English, early 20th century Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of charcoal-grey wool; attached vest front of cream wool Label: Nicoli, London Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, New York

Woman's Riding Hat Canadian, about 1900 Open tricorne of black felt and silk with flat crown Worn by the hostess of the Montreal Hunt

Label: Renfrew, Montreal Lent by Beverly Birks

Sir Francis Grant British, 1810-78 Master James Keith Fraser on His Pony, 1 8 4 4 Oil on canvas Lent by the Yale Center for British Art, New Haven, Paul Mellon Collection

Woman's Riding Habit American, 1826 Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of dark-brown wool trimmed with black braid; buttons covered with black silk Gift of Miss H. W. Knight, 1941 CI41 .145 .2ab

Woman's Riding Hat French, about 1830 Top hat of black silk with green silk veil Lent by Musée des Arts de la Mode, Paris

26

Woman's Riding Habit American, about 1874 Jacket and bustle skirt of dark-green wool twill trimmed with black velvet buttons Lent by the National Museum of American History, Washington, D. C.

Woman's Riding Hat French, 1878 Collapsible top hat of black silk faille with self-fabric bow and band Label: Exposition Universelli, 1878, Seul Médaillé Gift of Mrs. B. G. Lathrop, 1957 CI 57.21.3

Edouard Manet French, 1832-83 Portrait de Guillaudin à Cheval, 1 8 7 0 Oil on canvas Private collection

Woman's Riding Jacket American, about 1867 Jacket of blue wool trimmed with

black velvet ribbon; black satin buttons Lent by the National Museum of American History, Washington, D. C.

Man ' s Informal Riding Habit English, 1920s Coat and breeches of olive-brown wool twill Label: E. Tautz 6k Sons, Oxford St. (London) Gift of Jessie Leonard Hill, Charles R. Leonard, Jr., and Laura Leonard Ault, 1978 1978.477.61ab

Boy's Riding Habit American, 1905 Coat and breeches of brown-and-white wool twill Label: Best 6k Co., New York Lent bv the National Museum of American History, Washington, D. C.

George de Forest Brush American, 1855-1941 Portrait of Alan Harnman, 1905

Oil on canvas Gift of General Bovkin C. Wright, 1953 53.177

Coaching Picnic Basket American, 20th centurv Wicker; fifteen-piece service Lent bv The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Purchase, 19

Child's Riding Habit French, 1920s Coat and breeches of green wool; leggings of brown leather; hat of green velvet Label: Yvonne Gérard, 13-16 rue Taitbout, Paris The Jacqueline Loewe Fowler Costume Collection, Gift of Jacqueline Loewe Fowler, 1984

B l u e G a l l e r y V i t r i n e (left to right)

Herbert Haseltine American, 1877-1962 Tom Fool, 1 9 5 5 Bronze on marble base Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Herbert Haseltine American, 1877-1962 Chilly and Sunbeam, 1947 Bronze with gilt patina, on marble base Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Siyavush Plays Polo Before Afrasiyab Iranian (Tabriz), Safavid period, reign of Shah Tahmasp (1524-76) , about 1525-30 Ink, colors, and gold on paper Folio 180 from the Shah-nameh of Shah Tahmasp, attributed to Painter " B " Gift of Arthur A. Houghton, Jr., 1970 1970.301.26

Stirrups French, 17th century Steel with traces of gilding

Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1766ab

Stirrup Spanish, 16th century Iron Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1757a

Kentucky Derby Trophy American, 1942 14-carat gold, engraved "Sixty-eighth Kentucky Derby $75,000 added; VA Miles; Churchill Downs, Louisville, May 2, 1942. Won by Greentree Stable's 'Shut Out , ' 1942" Made by Lemon 6k Son, Louisville, Kentucky Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Roweled Spur German, about 1530 Polished steel Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1710

28

Rou'eíed Spurs Italian, 15th century Steel Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1701ab

Artist Unknown French, mid-19th centurv Monsieur de Charette, Premier President du Jockey Club à Cheval Lent by Hermès of Paris, Inc., New-York

Stirrup South German, about 1600 Steel with traces of tinning Gift of George D. Pratt, 1925 25.188.3

Westchester Racing Association, The Jerome Handicap Cup English, 1952 Sterling silver, engraved "Won by Greentree Stable's 'Tom Fool '" Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Edgar Degas French, 1834-1917 Thoroughbred Horse Walking, abou t 1 8 7 0 Bronze Lent by Mr. William Wood-Prince

Edgar Degas French, 1834-1917 Horse at a Trough, abou t 1 8 6 8 - 7 0 Bronze Lent by Mr. William Wood-Prince

Cheltenham Cups English, 1928-29 20-carat gold cups on green onvx bases, engraved "The Cheltenham Gold Cup won by Mr. J. H. Whitney's 'Easter Here Made by Asprey, Birmingham, England Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Stirrup Cup English, 19th centurv Silver Lent bv the Right Honorable Lady Leigh

Spur French, early 17th century Polished steel Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1698

Westchester Racing Association Cup American, 1927 Sterling silver, engraved "The Brook Handicap Steeplechase won by 'Coronation' by 'Johren' out of 'Inaugural'" Lent by Mrs. John Hav Whitnev

Santa Anita Park, Arcadia Handicap Plate American, February 5, 1963 Plate of 14-carat gold, engraved "One mile and one-quarter (on the turf) won by 'The Axe 2nd' time 2:04:1, Greentree Stable, Owner; R. L. Wheeler, Trainer; Peter Moreno, Jockey" Made bv Shreve 6k Co., San Francisco Lent bv Mrs. John Hay Whitney

29

Collection of Hunt Buttons English, about 1840-80 Brass Lent by Henry Poole and Company, London

Relief of a Cavalryman Crossing a Stream Neo-Assyrian, reign of Sennacherib, 705-681 B.c. Limestone Mesopotamia, Nineveh, Palace of Sennacherib Gift of John D. Rockefeller, Jr., 1932 32.143.18

Charles Cary Rumsey American, 1879-1922 Study f or Centaur, a b o u t 1 9 1 4 Bronze Lent by Charles Cary Rumsey Sculptures, Inc.

Stirrups Argentinian, 19th century Silver Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

30

Stirrups Mexican, 17th century Iron Rogers Fund, 1908 08.56.1 lab

Beit Buckie English, 1887 Brass with relief of Annie Oakley on horseback inscribed "Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show" and "Jubilee 1887" with a portrait of Queen Victoria; stamped on back "Earl's Court Exhibition" Private collection

Hunting Tricorne French, Second Empire, late 1860s Black felt trimmed with white ostrich feathers and with gold-and-silver vénerie galloon; silver button of the imperial hunt with a relief of a running stag Worn by the Empress Eugénie Lent by Musée de l'Empéri, Salon de Provence

Souvenir Photo Album and Advertisements 1910 Prepared by Alfred G. Vanderbilt for a commercial operation called "Venture ," a coach ride from London to Brighton and vice versa for which he sold tickets Lent by The Newport Historical Society, Newport, Rhode Island

Boot Pulls and Boot Horn American, 20th century Metal and ivory in leather box initialed "ABS" Lent by Mrs. Michael P. McDonough

Man ' s Hunting Boots French, 20th century Boots of black waxed calf; worn over footless white cotton vénerie stockings gartered in vénerie galloon; stored on beechwood boot trees Lent by John Lobb

Artist Unknown French, 18th century (?) Equestrian Statuette of Louis XIV Bronze, on an ebonized pedestal with gilt-bronze reliefs and mounts After a model by Martin van den Bogaert, called Desjardins (1640-94) Frederick C. Hewitt Fund, 1911 11.129.1

Stirrups French, about 1740 Bronze and gilt Rogers Fund, 1904 04.3.1472, 1473

Saddle Italian, about 1450 Covered with plates of bone carved in an intricate pattern presenting St. George and the Dragon, the Labors of Hercules, mythical monsters, with traces of color in which the design was painted Rogers Fund, 1904 04.3.250

Saddle Hungarian, 1st half 15th century Bone Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1940 40.66

Muzzle German, about 1575 Iron with traces of tinning Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1682

Théodore Géricault French, 1791-1824 Cheval Oil on paper laid on canvas Lent by Galerie Claude Bernard, Inc. New York

J. Willis Good British, 19th centurv Equestrian Statuette Silver Presented to Henry Selbv Lowndes Lent bv the Right Honorable Lady Leigh

Collection of Hunting Horns English, 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries Copper, brass, and silver Lent bv the Right Honourable Lady Leigh

Horse Chamfron Brussels, about 1625 Steel decorated with silver-gilt in floral pattern Made for Philip IV of Spain Private collection

Knee Pieces for Berlin Harness French, 18th centurv Leather with ormolu and brass hardware; knee pieces of red velvet with red silk tassels; lion and tulip decorative motifs Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. lames A. Keillor

Child's Riding Boots English, about 1845 Boots of red Moroccan leather embroidered with the coat of arms of

31

the Prince of Wales; gold spur and spur box in each heel Lent by John Lobb

Stirrup Spanish, 16th century Iron Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1757b

Musketeer Spurs French, 17th century Iron Lent by Musée de la Chaussure et d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans

Rou'eied Spurs French, 17th century Tinned steel Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1702ab

Hunting Belt and Dagger French, 18th century Gilded metal, leather, and steel Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

M u ^ i e German, about 1560 Iron with traces of tinning Gift of Stephen V. Grancsay, 1942 42.50.532

The Temple Gwathmey Memorial Steeplechase Handicap Cups American, 1936, 1937 Sterling silver, engraved "Won by Greentree Stable 'Sailor Beware' 1936" and "Won by 'Jungle King' 1937" Made by Black, Starr and Frost-Gorham, Inc., New York Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Spurs Arabic, 19th centurv Iron ornamented with semi-precious stones Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Khosrow Displays His Skill in Hunting Indian, 18th century Ink, colors, and gold on paper Folio 81a from a manuscript of Khosrow and Shirm, the second poem of the Khamseh of Amir Khosrow Dihlavi Gift of Alexander Smith Cochran, 1913 13.228.24

Slipper Stirrup for Sidesaddle Red leather and silver plate Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection

Stirrups French, 16th century Iron Used in tournaments Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

32

Alfred de Dreux French, 1810-60 Amazone devant le Château de Pierrefonds Oil on canvas Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Stirrups French, Second Empire, mid-19th century Gilded iron Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Spurs Spanish, 17th century Polished steel Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1723ab

Stirrups French, 18th century Brass and gilt Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1754ab

Spurs Argentinian, 19th century Silver-plated iron Lent bv the Hermès Collection, Paris

Stirrups French, First Empire, 1st quarter 19th century Gilded metal Lent by the Hermes Collection, Paris

Artist L'nknown French (?), late 17th centurv Horse Bronze Gift of Ogden Mills, 1924 24.212.22

Muzzle Greek, 4th centurv Brome Gift of I. Pierpont Morgan, 1917 17.190.2074

Prick Spur Northern European, A.D. l s t -2nd centuries Bronze The first spur was essentially a thorn bound to the heel; in these early metal spurs the sides had not yet been developed. Gift of Thomas E. Kirbv, 1921 21.183.3

Trophy for the Delaware Steeplechase and Race Association, Leonard Richards Stakes for Three-Year-Olds American, 1951 Sterling silver, engraved "One mile and a furlong, 122 lbs. Presented by Donald P. Ross, Esq.; Winner Hall of Fame, 'Shut Out-Big Event' Trainer John Gaver, Owner Greentree Stable, Jockey Theodore Atkinson, time 1:50 4 / 5 " Made by Gorham Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitnev

33

Spurs Argentinian, 19th century Iron and brass Designed in a Louis XIV style Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Spurs European, 15th century Brass Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Stirrups French, about 1550 Iron Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1759

Stirrups Russian, 19th century Iron The lower part, when reversed, could be used as a measure for grain or gunpowder. Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

Spurs French, early 17th century Steel and gold Gift of William Henry Riggs, 1913 14.25.1730ab

Woman's Riding Boot French, 20th century Boot of mahogany-colored calf; boot tree of beechwood Lent by John Lobb

Figure of a Horse Chinese, T'ang Dynasty, about 8th century Earthenware with "three-color" glaze Seymour Fund, 1951 51.66

Figure of a Horse Chinese, T'ang Dynasty, about 8th century Earthenware with "three-color" glaze The E. C. Converse Collection, Bequest of Edmund Cogswell Converse, 1921 21.175.37

Stirrups Western European, about 1725-50 Bronze and gold Bashford Dean Memorial Collection, Bashford Dean Memorial Fund, 1972 1972.94.1

Man ' s Riding Boot French, 20th century Boot of black calf with back zipper; boot tree of beechw-ood Lent by John Lobb

Spurs Scottish, 19th century Silver plate Lent by the Hermès Collection, Paris

34

T w e e d G a l l e r y (clockwise)

Woman's Riding Jacket English or American, 1930 Hacking jacket of brown wool cavalry twill Gift of Mrs. John Sherman Cooper, 1978 1978.358.2

Woman's Riding Hat American, about 1930 Hat of brown felt Lent bv Dr. Joseph Stuart

Artist Unknown British, 2nd half 19th century M a n on Horseback with a Greyhound Oil on canvas Bequest of Joan Whitney Payson, 1975 1976.201.20

Man ' s Informal Riding Apparel English, dated February 19, 1931 Jacket of brown, tan, and beige wool tweed Label: Bernard Weatherhill, London Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, New York

Woman's Riding Habit English, about 1940 Jacket of brown-and-beige Prince of Wales plaid; jodhpurs of tan wool Label: H. Huntsman 6k Sons, 11 Savile Row, London Lent by Mrs. Alan Corey

Herbert Haseltine American, 1877-1962 Suffolk Punch Bronze with green patina Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Woman's Riding Habit American, about 1925 Coat and breeches of brown wool twill woven in stripes Gift of Mrs. L. W. Potter, 1955 X55.11ab

Robert Henri American, 1865-1929 F. Ambrose Clark Oil on canvas

35

Purchase, Stephen C. Clark, Jr., Gift, 1982 1982.218

Woman's Riding Habit English, 1916 Coat, breeches, and apron skirt of brown wool twill Label: J. A. Dunn 6k Co., London Gift of Mrs. L. Gordon Campbell, 1950 CI 50.76. labe

Woman's Riding Habit English, 3rd quarter 20th century Coat and sidesaddle skirt of brown-and-black wool herringbone tweed Lent by Her Grace the Duchess of Marlborough

Charles Cary Rumsey American, 1879-1922 Pizarra, a b o u t 1 9 1 4 Bronze Lent by Charles Cary Rumsey Sculptures, Inc.

Man ' s Informal Riding Habit American, 1937 Jacket of black, grey, and white wool tweed; jodhpurs of grey wool Label: F. L. Dunne 6k Co. Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, New York

Woman's Hunting Habit for the Piedmont Hunt, Virginia English, 1950s Jacket of navy-blue wool twill; silver and copper buttons with relief of fox head, inscribed " P H " Label: Huntsman, 11 Savile Row, London Lent by Mrs. A. C. Randolph

Woman's Riding Habit French, 1928 Coat and breeches of charcoal-grey wool twill Label: Busvines 6k Co., Paris, rue Pierre Charron 48 Gift of Mrs. Frank Farley, 1945 CI 45.61.6ab

George Stubbs British, 1724-1806 The Bay Arab in a Coastal Landscape, 1 7 7 9 Oil on panel Lent by Bill Blass

Woman's Riding Habit English, about 1933-40 Coat and apron skirt of brown Prince of Wales plaid wool Label: Roberts 6k Carroll, 9 Cork St., London W l Lent by the National Museum of American History, Washington, D. C.

36

Ben Marshall British, 1767-1835 The Honorable Peniston Lamb with His Horse Assassin and His Dog Tanner Oil on canvas Lent by the Panshanger Collection, Avon, England

Woman's Riding Habit English, 1930s Coat and apron skirt of brown-and-white wool tweed Label: Roberts 6k Carroll, 9 Cork St., London W l Lent by Mrs. M. J. Hayes

Woman's Riding Habit English, jacket about 1937, skirt dated November 8, 1948 Jacket of brown-and-white wool herringbone tweed crossbarred in red; sidesaddle skirt and breeches of russet wool twill

Label in skirt: Roberts 6k Carroll, Ltd., London Gift of Mrs. Frederick H. Prince, Jr., 1978 1978.329. labe

Man ' s Informal Riding Apparel English, dated 1927 Jacket of grew beige, and rust wool tweed with purple vertical stripe; worn with jodhpurs Label: Bernard Weatherhill, Ltd., Conduit St., London Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, New York

Woman's Riding Apparel American, about 1927 Hacking jacket of green wool Harris tweed; jodhpurs of tan wool twill Lent by the National Museum of American History, Washington, D. C.

Simon Elwes British, 20th century Portrait of Sir Richard Sykes, 7th Baronet of Sledmore, 1936 Oil on canvas Lent bv the Royal Academy of Arts, London

Franklin B. Voss American, 20th centurv Easter Hero with Groom, 1 9 2 9 Oil on canvas Lent bv Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Herbert Haseltine American, 1877-1962 Mr. John Hay Whitne\ at Age Nine on His Pony, 1911 Bronze Lent bv Mrs. John Hay Whitnev

37

Woman's Riding Habit American, 1930s Coat, breeches, and apron skirt of charcoal-grey and white wool herringbone tweed Label: Delia, Cochran, Kines, Washington, D. C. Lent by Blue Ridge Farms

Woman's Riding Habit English, about 1940 Jacket of blue-and-green lovat tweed; jodhpurs of tan wool Label: H. Huntsman 6k Sons, 11 Savile Row, London Lent by Mrs. Alan Corey

G. Muss-Arnolt American, 19th century Meadow Brook Hunt, Old Westbury Pond, wi th a key t o the par t ic ipants , 1 8 8 5 Oil on canvas Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mr. August Belmont IV, 1978

38

Ramp Gallery (clockwise)

Man ' s Coat American, early 19th century Buckskin decorated with quill embroidery and self-fringe Purchase, Museum of Costume Art, 1942 CI 42.88

Man ' s Coat American (New England), about 1835 Deerskin decorated with pastel silk embroidery and self-fringe Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1975 1975.206.3a

Man ' s Riding Coat American, 1785-1806 Buckskin, fringed and embroidered Thought to have bc*en worn by Dr. John Peter Le Maveur, one of George-Washington's dentists Lent by the Valentine Museum, Richmond, Virginia

Buffalo Bill's Jacket, Hat, and Gauntlets American, about 1900 Buckskin with beaded ornamentation; hat of grey felt The earliest photograph of Buffalo Bill wearing this jacket is from 1901; he wore this stvle of hat for thirty years. Lent bv The Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody, Wyoming

Cowboy Costume American, about 1920 Red wool shirt, brown wool trousers woven in the California check; Stetson hat of silver-belly beaver felt; belt, cuffs, boots, and spurs inscribed with the "Lazy ID" brand; chaps of angora goatskin "Lazy ID" was the brand of Wyoming rancher Larry Larom; New York-born and Princeton-educated, Larom went West with Winthrop Brooks (of Brooks Brother The angora chaps were made tor E. V. Robertson, a rancher who became a United States Senator from Wyoming

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Lent by The Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody, Wyoming

Man ' s Charro Costume Mexican, 20th century Jacket, vest, and trousers of black wool trimmed with white leather appliqué; black silk shirt, black felt sombrero; grey snakeskin belt and holsters; low-boots of black leather with spurs and spur straps; serape of wool and silk in multicolored striped tapestry pattern The charro was the riding costume of the gentleman landowner as well as of the hacienda cowboy. It probably evolved from the suit of Salamandan origin worn in colonial Mexico Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Rogers Benjamin, 1965 CI 65.33.262-s

M a n ' s Charro Costume Mexican, 20th century Jacket, vest, and trousers of tan leather chamois trimmed in white leather Gift of Edward Larocque Tinker, 1952 CI 52.41.3abc

Man ' s Gaucho Costume Argentinian, 20th century Coat and trousers of charcoal-grey wool; gold and silver buttons; black-and-white wool serape; black silk scarf; black leather belt with silver ornaments and silver coins; silver knife; black leather boots with silver spurs; rawhide boleadoras; black leather bridle with silver ornaments; black felt hat Lent by Mary Moore Little

Balthus French, born 1908 La Caserne, 1 9 3 3 Oil on canvas Private collection

Feria Riding Apparel Spanish, 1966 Jacket of red velvet trimmed with black passementerie; grey-and-black striped gaucho pants; white cotton blouse trimmed with Valenciennes lace; chaps and boots of brown tooled leather

Jacket, pants, and blouse made for Mrs. John F. Kennedy Chaps and boots lent by Count Luis de Romanones

Man ' s Circassian Costume Russian, 20th century Coat of handwoven black wool with ivory-tipped wooden cartridges; riding trousers of navy-blue wool; black silk shirt; black astrakhan hat; white wool hood; leather belt; ivory-handled dagger; black leather boots This type of costume was adopted by the Cossacks in 1870 Gift of Mrs. Melanie Mussayassul, in memory of her husband Halil-beg Mussayassul, 1957 CI 57.26a-cc

Woman's Riding Jacket American, 1920s Sleeveless jacket of natural linen Gift of Mrs. Andrew E. Beer, 1972 1972.247.8

40

Pony Basket Phaeton American (?), about 1895 Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Bequest of Mrs. Marion Shorter, 1966

Woman's Riding Habit American (?), about 1910-15 Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of white linen Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, New York

Woman's Riding Hat French, about 1900 Bowler of natural straw trimmed with black velvet Label: Motsch 6k Laureau, 42 Ave de l'Almo, Paris Lent by Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Woman's Sporting Apparel English, about 1900 Skirt, breeches, and gaiters of tan suede with boned vest of off-white wool crossbarred in brown and red

Lent bv The Brooklvn Museum, New York

Woman's Riding Habit English, about 1905 Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of cream wool gabardine Label: J. Busvine 6k Co., 4 Brook St., London N.W. Lent by Mrs. William H. Able Smith

Woman's Riding Habit American, about 1914-15 Jacket and divided skirt of natural linen Label: Gimbel Brothers Gift of Mrs. M. Renfrew Bradner, 1979 1979.143.lab

Woman's Riding Habit American, about 1916 Jacket and sidesaddle skirt of white linen Gift of Mrs. W. H. Chamberlain, 1940 CI 40.69.5ab

Woman's Summer Riding Hat French, about 1910 Boater of natural straw with attached monocle Worn by Madame la Princesse Joachim Murat Label: Motsch, Paris Lent bv Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Woman's Riding Boots English, about 1900 Boots in Newmarket style of white boxcloth and tan leather Worn bv Madame la Princesse Joachim Murat Label: R. Thomas and Sons, 5 St. James's Street, London Lent bv Musée de la Mode et du Costume, Paris

Woman's Riding Habit American, about 1920 Coat and breeches of tan-colored cotton twill Label: "Rutstutt ," Abercrombie and Fitch, West 36th St. (New York)

41

Gift of Mrs. Lyall Dean, Mrs. Borden Helmer, and Estate of Bliss Reed Crocker, in memory of Mrs. William Reed Thompson and Mrs. Edward Bliss Reed, 1965 CI 65.22.3ab

Woman's Summer Riding Habit American, about 1920 Belted jacket and breeches of natural linen Gift of Mrs. James Orme, 1941 CI41.83.18ab

42

S p o r t i n g Ga l l ery (clockwise)

Paul Brown American, 1893-1958 International Field, Meadow Brook Club, 1939 Lithograph Lent bv Mrs. John Hay Whitnev

Marietta Cotton Cotter American, 20th centurv Mr. Winston Guest as a Polo Player Oil on canvas Lent by Mrs. Winston Guest

Wooden Horse for Polo Practice American, 20th centurv Lent by Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Hitchcock

Polo Apparel and Accoutrement American, 20th centurv Jersey, breeches, boots, spurs, knee pads, helmet, whip, and mallet Lent bv Mrs. George H. Bostwick

Charles Carv Rumsev American, 1879-1922 Polo Player on Pony—Harrison

Tu eed, a b o u t 1 9 1 0 - 1 2 Bronze Lent by Charles Cary Rumsev Sculptures, Inc.

Herbert Haseltine American, 1877-1962 Polo Pony Bronze Lent bv Mrs. John Hay Whitnev

Polo Jersey for the Greentree Polo Team American, about 1937 Watermelon-pink wool knit embroidered with a tree; number 4 appliquéd on back Worn bv Mr. John Hav Whitney Lent bv Mrs. John Hav Whitney

Raymond P. R. Neilson American, 20th centurv Portrait of John Hay Whitney in Polo Togs Holding a Dog Named "Chilly," 1937 Oil on canvas Lent by Mrs. John Hav Whitney

43

Photographs of 1935 and 1936 Open Championship Polo Team and Horses Lent by Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Hitchcock

Olympic Gold Medals American, 1984 Won by Touch of Class and Joe Fargis and the U.S. Equestrian Team for the Individual Jumping and Team Jumping Competitions, Games of the XXIIIrd Olympiad Lent by Joe Fargis

Steinkraus Jumping Saddle French, 20th century Leather William C. Steinkraus is chairman of the U.S. Equestrian Team and was until 1984 the only American rider to have won an individual gold medal for jumping. This saddle was made by Hermès to his specifications Lent by Hermès of Paris, Inc., New York

44

International Ribbons 20th century Lent by the United States Equestrian Team, Inc.

Uniform for the U.S. Olympic Equestrian Team American, 1984 Coat of red wool with blue wool collar trimmed with white piping; team shield appliqué Label: Miller's, New York Lent by Joe Fargis

Linwood Palmer American, 19th century Wagonette Break and Hunting Scene, John Townsend, Whip, a b o u t 1 8 9 5 Oil on canvas Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Lida F. Bloodgood, 1957

Skeleton Wagon Speed Vehicle American (?), about 1890 Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Purchase, 1953

Trap American, 1891 Made by Troy Carriage Works, Troy, New York Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Miss Katherine Thayer Hobson, 1953

Man ' s Coaching Coat English, dated January 22, 1968 Great coat and cape of dark-green wool trimmed with matching velvet; buttons of mother-of-pearl, each engraved with different coaching scene Label: Huntsman and Sons, 11 Savile Row, London W l Lent by Mr. and Mrs. John M. Seabrook

Man ' s Coaching Daywear English, dated January 5, 1967 Driving coat of blue wool, with blue velvet collar; buttons of mother-of-pearl, each engraved with a different coaching scene Label: Huntsman and Sons, 11 Savile Row, London W l

Lent bv Mr. and Mrs. John M. Seabrook

Postilion Harness English, 20th centurv Black patent leather with pigskin saddle; silver-plated hardware bearing the royal monogram " C C " Made for King Carol of Rumania by Champion 6k Wilson Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Ward Melville, 1953

Ceremonial Harnesses French, about 1870 Black leather with silver ornaments Made for the occasion of the wedding of Mlle de Mortemart to the Due d'Uzés and bearing the coats of arms of both houses Lent by M. le Marquis de Brissac

Two Trunks French, 20th century One trunk contains the lady's sidesaddle and accoutrement; the other

contains all the clothing and accessories for riding sidesaddle. Made by "Aux Etats Unis ," 229 rue St. Honoré, Paris Lent by Irene de Kwiatkowski Rawlings

Straw Collars American, about 1900 Part of the appointments of a road coach Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gifts of Mr. Charles Vanderveer III, 1967, and Mrs. Paul Moore

East Williston Cart American, about 1895 Made by Valentine, Hempstead, New York Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Collection, 1964

Hat Case English, about 1925 Leather lined in beige silk; holds both

a top hat and a bowler; inscribed " N W " Lent by Mr. Charles Whitehouse

Boots English, 20th century Black leather with flesh-colored tops Made for Edward VIII of England Lent by Jeremy Hackett

Boot Case British, 20th century Leather; with accessories Made by Propert's of London Originally belonged to Mr. Robert B. Young of Westbury, Long Island Lent by Mr. and Mrs. James L. Young

Man ' s Boots (in Boot Case) British, 1936 Black calf with mahogany tops Label: Peal and Co., Wigmore Street, London Lent bv Frank C. Richardson

45

Sulky American, about 1905 Made by Peck 6k Lines, Bridgeport, Connecticut Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Museums Purchase, 1953

Racing Silks: Colors of Mr. J. Bonvié French, about 1835 Jacket and cap of purple and yellow silk stitched together in stripes Worn by the jockey V. Prévôt Lent by Mrs. Lillian Williams

Herbert Meyer American Park Drag, Judge William Moore, Whip, a b o u t 1 9 0 0 Colored lithograph Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Paul Moore

Dos-a-Dos American, about 1900 Made by Brewster 6k Co., New York

Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Frederick Johanns, 1979

Wicker Sleigh American, about 1900 Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mr. Ward Melville, 1971

Man ' s Coaching Coat American, late 19th century Cutaway coat of dark olive-green wool; brass buttons engraved with the insignia of the New York Coaching Club Gift of Jessie Leonard Hill, 1979 1979.152.3

Park Gate Gig American, about 1900 Made by the Colfax Manufacturing Company, South Bend, Indiana Lent by The Museums at Stony Brook, New York, Gift of Mrs. Byford Ryan, 1956

J. H. Beard American, late 19th century Jerome Park Race Track, a b o u t 1 8 6 6 Oil on canvas Lent by the National Museum of Racing, Saratoga Springs, New York

Uniform for an Ecuyer du Cadre Noir de l'Ecole Nationale d'Equitation de Saumur, France French, 20th century Tunic of black wool gabardine with brass buttons; gold epaulettes; bicorne hat of beaver felt with French cockade; white wool gabardine breeches; black boots with gold spurs The Cadre Noir is one of the very few-schools that practice the principles of classical riding as they were developed in the 16th century. Lent by Col. de Saint André, Col. Durand, Mme Bouchet, M. Robert

46

Gaia Accoutrement for the Cadre Noir de l'Ecole Nationale d'Equitation de Saumur, France French, 20th century Saddle of white suede with gold stirrups; saddle blankets and ribbons of red amarante wool and metallic gold galloon; double reins, one of leather, one of red wool Lent by the Ecole Nationale d'Equitation de Saumur, France

Uniform for a Rider of the Spanish Riding School, Vienna Austrian, 20th century Coat of dark-brown wool twill with brass buttons; white leather breeches with black leather jackboots and black hat Lent by the Spanische Hofreitschule, Vienna

Officer's Boot and Spur French, Second Empire, mid-19th century Black leather and metal Designed for the officers of Emperor Napoleon III Lent by Musée de la Chaussure et d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans

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R a c i n g - S i l k s G a l l e r y (clockwise)

Sir Alfred J. Munnings British, 1878-1959 Before the Start Oil on panel Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Sir John Lavery British, 1856-1941 "Weighing In"—Sandown Park Oil on canvas Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Jockey's Weighing Chair British, mid-19th century Wood Lent by Captain Tryon Antiques, Peter Bradley and Larry Dupuis

Sir Alfred J. Munnings British, 1878-1959 Two Race Horses Walking Down Past the Post, 1935 Oil on canvas Bequest of Joan Whitney Payson, 1975 1976.201.21

Racing Silks: Colors of M. A. Lupin French, 1930s Jacket of black silk satin; cap of red silk satin Label in jacket: Au Petit Matelot, 27 Ave de le Gde Armée, Paris Label in hat: Hermès Frères, Selliers, 24 Faubourg Ste Honoré, Paris Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France, Paris

Racing Silks: Colors of Claiborne Farm American, 1984 Jacket and cap of golden-yellow synthetic satin Label: Silks Unlimited, Lexington, Kentucky Lent by Claiborne Farm, Paris, Kentucky

Racing Silks: Colors of M. Edmond Blanc French, about 1900 Jacket of orange silk satin; cap of navy-blue silk satin

48

Label in jacket: M. Durand, Maisons-Laffitte Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France, Paris

Racing Silks: Colors of Henry Carnegie Phipps American, 1984 Jacket of purple nylon with yellow-nylon sleeves; cap of yellow nylon Label: Thyben's Saddlery, Elmont, New York Lent by Miss Cynthia Phipps

Racing Silks: Colors of M. Edmond Dugué MacCarthy French, about 1900 Jacket and cap cover of white satin trimmed with green Lent by Musée des Arts de la Mode, Paris

Isidore-Jules Bonheur French, 1827-1901 Jockey on a Horse Bronze

The horse, which belonged to Mr. William Astor, was foaled in 1877 and called Ferncliff Gift of Mrs. Vincent Astor, 1964 64.248

Racing Silks: Colors of M. Botrin French, mid-20th century Jacket of brown synthetic satin; cap of red synthetic satin Label in jacket: M. Durand, Maisons-Laffitte Label in cap: Au Petit Matelot, 27 Ave de le Gde Armée, Paris Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France, Paris

Racing Silks: Colors of John A. Morris American, 3rd quarter 20th century Jacket and cap of red synthetic satin Label: Hand made by Ted Legere Lent by Mr. John A. Morris

Racing Silks: Colors of the Comte de Lastours French, mid-20th century Jacket of white nylon satin with appliquéd stripes of blue nylon satin; cap of blue silk Label in jacket: Au Petit Matelot, 27 Ave de le Gde Armée, Paris Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France, Paris

Racing Silks: Colors of Ogden Mills Phipps American, 1984 Jacket of black nylon with red nylon collar and cuffs; red nylon cap Label: Thyben's Saddlery, Elmont, New York Lent by Ogden Mills Phipps

Racing Silks: Colors of Thomas Hitchcock, Sr. American, mid-20th century Jacket of emerald-green synthetic satin;

49

matching cap of silk satin trimmed with metallic gold tassel Lent by Mrs. Louise H. Stephaich

Herbert Haseltine American, 1877-1962 Cherry Pie, 1 9 2 4 Bronze Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Racing Silks: Colors of Sir John Astor English, 3rd quarter 20th century Jacket of pale-green nylon with synthetic pink appliquéd diagonal stripes; cap of darker pink nylon Label in jacket: D. Gilbert 6k Son, Racing Saddlers, New Market, London Label in cap: Gibson (Saddlers) Ltd., New Market, London Lent by Sir John Astor

Racing Silks: Colors of Marcel Boussac French, 3rd quarter 20th century Jacket of orange synthetic satin; cap of beige velvet

Label in cap: Au Petit Matelot, 27 Ave de la Gde Armée, Paris Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France, Paris

Racing Silks: Colors of the Baron Guy de Rothschild French, 1984 Jacket of blue silk satin; cap of yellow-silk satin Label: Hermès—Paris Lent by the Baron Guy de Rothschild

Racing Silks: American Colors of Greentree Stable American, 3rd quarter 20th century Watermelon-pink synthetic satin with appliquéd stripes of black synthetic fabric on sleeves; cap of black nylon Labels: Thyben's Saddlery, Elmont, New York Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Racing Silks: Colors of Ogden Phipps American, 1984 Black nylon jacket; red nylon cap Label: Thyben's Saddlery, Elmont, New York Lent by Ogden Phipps

Elisabeth Frink British, born 1930 Resting Horseman, 1 9 8 4 Bronze, artist's cast Lent by Elisabeth Frink

Milton Menasco American, 20th century La Troienne and Foals, 1 9 5 3 Oil on canvas mounted on masonite Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

John Frederick Herring, Sr. British, 1795-1865 Margrai 'e with James Robinson Up, 1833 Oil on canvas Lent by the Yale Center for British Art, New Haven, Paul Mellon Collection

50

Herbert Haseltine American, 1877-1962 Horse, 1911 Bronze Lent by the National Museum of Racing, Saratoga Springs, New York

Racing Silks: Colors of the Wheatley Stables American, 1984 Jacket of yellow nylon with purple nylon sleeves; cap of purple nylon Label: Thyben's Saddlery, Elmont, New York Lent by Miss Cynthia Phipps

Racing Silks: Colors of His Grace the Duke of Devonshire English, 3rd quarter 20th centurv Jacket and cap of pale-yellow synthetic satin Label: D. Gilbert 6k Son, Racing Saddlers, New Market, London Lent by His Grace the Duke of Devonshire

Racing Silks: Colors of Thomas Hitchcock, Sr. American, 2nd quarter 20th centurv Jacket of emerald-green silk satin; matching cap of silk satin trimmed with metallic gold tassel Lent by Mrs. Louise H. Stephaich

Racing Silks: Colors of the Vicomte Daru French, mid-20th centurv Jacket of orange >vnthetic satin with black satin sleeves; cap of black satin Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France, Paris

Racing Silks: Colors of the Baron de Nexon French, about 1900 Jacket of green silk satin; cap of red silk satin Label in jacket: Janine, Casaques et Toques, 30 Avenue de Lonnueil, Maisons-Laffitte

Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France, Paris

Charles Carv Rumsev American, 1879-1922 Good and Plenty, 1907 Bronze Lent by Charles Cary Rumsey Sculptures, Inc.

Racing Silks: Colors of the Earl of Derby English, 1984 Black nylon satin jacket; white nylon cap Label in jacket: Newmarket Brand Lent by the Right Honorable Earl of Derby. M.C.

Racing Silks: Colors of Admiral Rous English, miel-19th century Jacket of multicolored silks patched in a harlequin pattern Worn bv the Honorable H. J. Admiral Rous (1791-1877) , Senior Steward of

51

The Jockey Club for twenty-five years 1 ent by The Jockey Club, Newmarket, England

Racing Silks: Colors of Greentree Stable English, 3rd quarter 20th century Jacket of watermelon-pink synthetic-satin with black-and-white striped sleeves; white silk cap Label: D. Gilbert 6k Son Racing Saddlers, Newmarket Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Herbert Haseltine American, 1877-1962 Easter Hero, 1931 Bronze with gilt patina on marble base Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitnev

Racing Silks: Colors of the Baron de Rothschild French, 2nd quarter 20th centurv Jacket of blue silk satin; cap of yellow-silk satin Label in jacket: Hermes Sport, Paris

Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France, Paris

Racing Silks: Colors of Thomas Hitchcock, Sr. American, 2nd quarter 20th century Jacket of emerald-green silk ottoman; matching cap of silk satin trimmed with metallic gole! tassel Lent by Mrs. Louise H. Stephaich

Racing Silks: Colors of the Baron Alexis de Rede French, 3rd quarter 20th centurv Jacket of orange silk satin with white-satin sleeves; cap of black velvet with metallic gold tassel Label: Hermès—Paris Lent by the Baron Alexis de Rédé

Racing Silks: Colors of the Baron Finot French, 3rd quarter 20th centurv Jacket of brown nylon satin; cap of red nylon

Label in jacket: Au Petit Matelot, 27 Ave de la Gde Armée, Paris Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France, Paris

Racing Silks: Colors of the Comte de Ganay French, about 1900 Jacket of yellow silk satin; cap of green silk satin Label: George Parker 6k Sons, Saddlers, Upper St. Martins Lane, London W C 2 Lent by Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France, Paris

Racing Silks: Colors of Hickory Tree Stable English. 1984 lacket of green svnthetic satin with yellow satin appliquéd on sleeves in checked pattern; diagonal yellow satin appliquéd stripe from left to right

52

Label: Frost Saddlery, Bawtry, Dorcester, England Lent by Hickory Tree Stable, Middleburg, Virginia

Racing Silks: Colors of the Frederick Prince Family American, about 1900 Jacket of purple silk satin with appliquéd stripes of yellow silk satin; cap of purple silk satin piped with yellow- satin; black silk satin breeches Label in cap: Dunlap 6k Company Lent by The Brooklyn Museum, New York

Sir Alfred J. Munnings British, 1878-1959 Newmarket Incident: The Runawas, 1954 Oil on canvas mounted on board Private collection

Theatrical Horse Heads French, 1977 Made of wicker with metallic tape and leather. Designed by John Napier and

realized by Hector Pascual for the play Equus by Peter Shaffer, performed at the Théâtre de l'Athénée-Louis Jouvet, Paris, with stage design by John Dexter Lent by Pierre Berge

John Skeaping British, born 1901 Zanzibar Bronze Lent by Julian Seymour, London

New York Racing Association Cup, The New York Second Division American, 1978 Sterling silver, engraved "Belmont 1978 won by Greentree Stable's 'Late Bloomer'" Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

Alexander Phimister Proctor American, 1862-1950 Morgan Stallion, abou t 1913 Bronze Bequest of Jacob Ruppert, 1939 39.65.61

Whitney Memorial Steeplechase Cup American, 1916 Sterling silver, engraved "Handicap for four-year-olds and upward; about two and a half miles; won by: Green tree Stable's Syosset II, 1916" Lent by Mrs. John Hay Whitney

53

Credits Music List

Purcell: "Fanfare" Mozart: "Allegro" from Horn Concerto in D Major, K. 412 Berlioz: "The Royal Hunt" and "S torm" from Les Troyens Boiling: "Galop" (excerpt) from Suite for Cello and Jazz Piano Walton: "Johannesburg Festival Overture" (excerpt) Copland: "Hoedown" from Rodeo Randolf: "How Could Red Riding H o o d " Weber: "Huntsman's Chorus" from Der Freischütz Tchaikovsky: "The Seasons" Suppe: "The Light Cavalry Overture" (excerpt) Strauss, Richard: "Allegro" from Horn Concerto No. i in E-Flat Mozart: "The Hunt Quartet ," K. 458 Bach: "Gigue" from French Suite No. 5 in G Major Glass: "Glassworks" (excerpt) Stravinsky: "Introduction" from The Rite of Spring

Strauss, Johann: "Tales from the Vienna W o o d s " Tchaikovsky: "Capriccio Italien" (excerpts) Grofé: "On the Trail" from The Grand Canyon Suite Strauss, Johann: "The Radetzky March" "Music for Hunting Horn: 1 5 6 1 -1840" (excerpts) "Forty-seven Coach Horn Tunes" (excerpts) Haydn: "Horn Signal" from Symphony No. 31 in D Major Mozart, Leopold: "Musical Sleigh Ride" (excerpt) Mouret: "Symphonies: Second Suite" (excerpts) Strauss, Johann, Sr.: "Einzugs-Galopp" Grainger: "Country Gardens" Verdi: Don Carlos (excerpt from Act III)

54

Acknowledgments

Our special thanks go to the following for their assistance in preparing and installing the exhibition:

Mr. and Mrs. Michael Ballentine Simon Blow Mme Bouchet Carlie Cleveland Jean-Louis Dumas Joe Fargis and the United States Equestrian Team Merri Ferrell International Sidesaddle Organization Douglas Kwart Mme J.-C. le Bourhis Dain Marcus Laurent Momeja Thomas Ryder Mr. and Mrs. John M. Seabrook Mrs. James Asa Shield Robin Smith-Ryland La Société Française de Vénerie Linda Sylling Charles Whitehouse Walter Yetnikoff

We are deeply grateful to the following organizations and individuals for material generously donated to the exhibition:

Abraham 6k Strauss Alexander's, Inc. B. Altman 6k Co. The Arrow Companv Barney's New York Brunschwig 6k Fils, Inc. Canthus, Inc. Capezio Ballet Makers, Inc. Alexsander Danel T. O. Dey Eiser's Riding Equipment Hindsgaul (USA) Inc. J . C . J . Stable H. Kauffman 6k Son Saddlery Company M. J. Knoud Miller's M. J. M. Studios Pucci Mannequin, Inc. Scalamandré Silks, Inc. Martin Shore Standard Trimming Companv Themes, Inc.

Vogel Boots Wiener Laces Zafero Studios, Inc. Scent: Habit Rouge, Guerlain, Paris Music Arrangement: Laura Harth, CBS Records 100% Belgian Linen provided by International Linen Promotion Commission Window Pane printed on linen designed by Alan Londin Bows, ropes, and ribbons for paintings designed by Mario Buatta

55

Lenders to the Exhibition

David Alexander Musée de l 'Armée Musée des Arts de la Mode Sir John Astor Gene Autry Captain F. G. Barker, M.F.H. His Grace, The Duke of Beaufort Madame la Comtesse Guy de Beaumont Pierre Berge Beval's Saddlery, Ltd. Mrs. Beverly Birks Monsieur le Marquis Casimir de Blacas Gallery Claude Bernard, Inc. Bill Blass Blue Ridge Farm Mrs. G. H. Bostwick Bottega Veneta Breeder's Cup, Ltd. Monsieur le Marquis de Brissac The Brooklyn Museum Mrs. Edward Bucklin Buffalo Bill Historical Society Chanel Musée de la Chaussure et d'Ethnographie Régionale de Romans

The Chrysler Museum Claiborne Farm Mrs. Stephen Clark Leighton Coleman The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Mrs. Alan Corey Mrs. C. Suydam Cutting José Dar The Right Honorable Earl of Derby, M.C. His Grace, The Duke of Devonshire Ms. Victoria Di Nardo Ms. Alexandra Duer Colonel Durand, Ecuyer en chef du Cadre Noir de Saumur Musée de l'E.A.A.B.C. de Saumur l'Ecole Nationale d'Equitation de Saumur Eiser's Riding Equipment Joe Fargis Miss Elisabeth Frink Mrs. Louis S. Gimbel III Mrs. Isabel T. Gray Mrs. Peter Guernsey Mrs. Winston Guest Jeremy Hackett Mrs. J. H. Thayer Hayes

Collection Hermès Hermès of Paris, Inc. Hickory Tree Stable Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Hitchcock III Mrs. Bender Isham The Jockey Club, Newmarket Thomas Johnson H. Kauffman 6k Sons Saddlery Company, Inc. Mrs. Thomas Kempner Mrs. John F. Kennedy M. J. Knoud The Kyoto Costume Institute Ms. Denise Lee The Right Honorable Lady Leigh Musée de l'Empéri Mrs. Mary Moore Little C. G. M. Lloyd-Baker, M.F.H. John Lobb, Bootmaker John Lobb James Lock 6k Company, Ltd. Her Grace, The Duchess of Marlborough Billy Martin Western Wear, Inc. Mademoiselle Solange de la Motte Saint Pierre Mrs. Michael P. McDonough

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Mrs. Francia Meiselman Paul Mellon Miller's, Inc. Musée de la Mode et du Costume Mrs. J. Maxwell Moran John A. Morris John J. Allan Murphy National Horseracing Museum at Newmarket National Museum of Racing Newport Historical Society Kimball Sumner Nickerson, Newport Polo Association The Panshanger Collection Musée du Petit Palais Walter Pfeiffer Miss Cynthia Phipps Ogden Phipps Ogden Mills Phipps Henry Poole and Companv Mrs. A. C. Randolph Mrs. Irene de Kwiatkowski Rawlings Baron Alexis de Rédé Frank E. Richardson Monsieur Robert, Bottier at Saumur The Rockefeller Familv Count Luis de Romanones

Baron Guy de Rothschild Royal Academy of Arts The Royal Mews, Buckingham Palace Charles C. Rumsey, Jr. Charles Cary Rumsey Sculptures, Inc. Colonel de Saint André Mr. and Mrs. John M. Seabrook Mrs. James Asa Shield Mr. and Mrs. Constantine Sidamon-Eristoff Mrs. John Skeaping Mrs. Able Smith Robin Smith-Ryland Division of Costume, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution Société d'Encouragement pour l'Amélioration des Races de Chevaux en France Spanische Hofreitschule Kurth Sprague Mrs. Louise H. Stephaich Mrs. Eva Steward The Museums at Stony Brook Robert E. Straw-bridge, Jr. Dr. C. Joseph Stuart A. Sulka 6k Company

Swaine, Adeney, Brigg 6k Sons, Ltd. United States Equestrian Team, Inc. The Valentine Museum Musée du Château de Versailles Vogel Boots Welsh 6k Jefferies, Ltd. Western Reserve Historical Society George A. Weymouth Charles S. Whitehouse Mrs. John Hay Whitney William Wilbur Mrs. Lillian Williams William Wood-Prince Mrs. Elizabeth M. Worrall Yale Center for British Art Mr. and Mrs. James L. Young

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Staff of the Costume Institute Exhibition Staff Volunteers for the Installation

Jean L. Druesedow, Associate Curator in Charge Diana Vreeland, Special Consultant Paul M. Ettesvold, Associate Curator K. Gordon Stone, Associate Museum Librarian Judith Jerde, Associate Conservator Anne H. Schirrmeister, Assistant Curator Katell Le Bourhis, Research Associate Lillian A. Dickler, Senior Administrative Assistant Jeannie Lawson, Senior Administrative Assistant Karen Meyerhoff, Assistant for Study Storage Dominick Tallarico, Principal Departmental Technician Mavis Dalton, Associate Curator, part-time

Exhibition conceived and organized by Diana Vreeland Exhibition Coordinator: Stephen Jamail Research Associate: Katell le Bourhis Advisor to the Installation: Stephen de Pietri Assistants for the Exhibition: Sarah Richardson, Richard DeGussi-Bogutski, Kirk Allan Adair, June Bove, Natasha Grenfell Administrative Assistant for the Exhibition: Pamela H. Osowski Designers: Jeffrey Daly, David Harvey Lighting: William L. Riegel

Alida Albright Penelope Bareau Mary S. Barker Véronique Benard Francesca Bianco Carolyn Blish Jill Bomze Rose-Marie Brequet Judy Brindisi Jean Brogan Lucy-Jane Buhler Russell Bush Cathaline Cantalupo Barbara Chafkin Arlene Cooper Antoinette Cusumano Helen Cutting Clothilde Daniel Jacqueline de la Chaume Helen Di Biasio Maria Figliolia Barbara H. Finch Judith B. Flaxman Frances Fore Laura Gambieski

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Valerie Gimbel Ellen Granick Marie C. Hagen Aimee Halperin William Hamilton Genie Hertz Svea Eleanor Holborow Isabelle Isquierda Deborah Jackson Patricia Kaplan Joel Kaye Shula Koton Joell Kunath Marine le Bourhis Denise Lee Patricia Lennox Georgette R. Levy Vincent Libretti Clinton Machado Gabriella Mariotti Evelyn Marron Madge Miller Marisa Morra Anne Nielson David Oakes Diana Pertak Nancy Prager-Bennett

Laura Reibrun Lucy Richards Roger Roberts Dean Rorvig Sarah S. Rowe Susan Salzberg Jocelyn Schwartzman Ann Selvig Elaine Shaub Philip Shubin Daisy Singer Cynthia Sirko Marie-Louise Slocum Sylvia M. Spitzer Kuniko Steel Evelyne Tanous Wybren Terpstra Linda Velez Peter Wrigley Michael Zabriskie

Costume Institute Tour Guides

Mrs. Herman Brickman Mrs. William Butler Mrs. Howard Clark, Jr. Mrs. Beverley Chew Duer Mrs. Frank R. DuPuy Mrs. Robert E. Gorman Mrs. Peter E. Guernsey-Mrs. L. Emery Katzenbach Mrs. Kenneth E. Rose Mrs. Jules Silbert Mrs. Humphrey Taylor Mrs. Michael W. Weir

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