FREE - American Watchmakers – Clockmakers Institute

WEC Wedge-Ledge

A superior WEC crystal with a reverse single on the bottom. Forms a right angle under pressure, wedging the ledge firmly against the bezel and its bottom flat to the seat of the case, assuring far better waterproofing. Available in 1/4 sizes 0.84mm - 39.

FREE Crystal Lift

with either assortment

$18.00 Value

GHC Hunting Case Crystals

Thinnest, strongest available, plastic crystal for cover case (hunting case). Sizes: 15-55 in 1 /4 sizes 22.2mm -47.6mm.

We also stock Lo-Dome & ring crystals in addition to the wedge ledge & hunting case crystals.

s59so WEC 50 ..

WEC50 crystal

Assortment WEC90 Contains 50 of the most popula~ mens_ size

WEC in a clear styrene contamer with room for expansion.

Contains ~O pieces, a full range of WEC crystal m a clear styrene container.

[ SERVICE WHAT YOU SELL - Your customers Expect it! -1 A "must " tool for replacing crystals and closing watch case backs after battery replacement. This heavy duty steel press comes complete with aluminum dies giving you many years of use. The BB press is also the most versatile press with many optional dies making any watch a "SNAP"!

CRYSTAL INSERTING TOOLS 5028 - Crystal Press plus -0 tapered/3 flat fixtures for use with ring crystal ................................... ................................. s245.00 503 - Set of 5 male plugs, 5 tapered plugs and one aluminum plate for conventional crystals ..... ............... ...... ............. ..... s75.00 504 - Set of fixtures included with press ........... .... ... ... ........... .......... $127 .50 505 - Press plus 508 fixtures for closing case backs ............ ...... ..... s210.00 506 - Set of 2 supplementary platforms 32.0 & 34.0mm . .............. .... . s33.50 507 - Set of 2 larger straight wall fixtures for 508 .......... ................. .. .. $33.50 508 - Set of 8 straight wall fixtures for gents sizes ............................. s82.50 509 - Set of 8 straight wall fixtures for ladies sizes ................ .. .......... s79.50 510- Set of 4 extra large double-sided straight wall plugs .................. s52.00 610 - Press plus all fixtures .................... .......................................... 5540.00

-~~A O ~ \t:::;I "-:I \Q

@ @ €} 8 €J ~® G

#502B Crystal Inserter with 13 Fixtures Are you replacing batteries? Use our BB505 Combination

B505- BB Press plus BB 508 for closing case back.

HOROLOGICAL

TIMES

CONTENTS VOLUME 20 , NUMBER 3 MARCH 1996

ON THE COVER: This month's cover shot was taken by Jack Goldstein of Cranford. New Jersey.

CLOCKS & WATCHES

16 Technically Watches, By Archie B. Perkins Antique Watch Restoration. Part CXXIII, Vibrating Hairsprings

22 Music Box Clocks. By Leo A. Jaroslaw Twelve-Tune Music Box With Six Bells, Part 8

26 A Seven Horn Trumpeter, By David J. Carlson

32 Technological Revolution in the Watch Manufacturing Industry, By Scott Chou

36 Repairing Mechanical Watches & Clocks, By Henry B. Fried A Hairspring Tool for Making the Breguet Bends. Part XIII

38 A Practical Course in Clock Repair, By John P. Kenyon Metallurgy, Unit 1

2

4

6

12

10

40

8

44

45

46

48

50

52

56

DEPARTMENTS

President's Message By Joseph L. Cerullo

Questions & Answers By Henry B. Fried

Ask Huck By J.M. Huckabee

Pickle Barrel By Marshall F. Richmond

Affiliate Chapter Column By Jack Kurdzionak

Book Reviews By Henry B. Fried

Rock Quarry et tu By Fred S. Burckhardt

From the Workshop

AWi Material Search Network

Bulletin Board

Industry News

New Members

Classifieds

Advertising Index

EDUCATION

30 Education Update

By James E. Lubic

SPECIAL INTEREST

29 AWi Seeks Applicants

Introducing a new department called From the Workshop on page 44.

Four-hundred-day Clocks

Q Four-hundred-day • clocks are my

problem. Things happen so slowly that it takes lots of time to service one. Can you offer some suggestion to speed up the work?

A These clocks are • uniquely differ

ent from most other repairs. You have defined the problem that most everyone experiences with the movement. However. our best approach is to understand the technology so well that very little time is needed to get things in order.

Vie are very fortunate to have one of the best sources of technical information available to our trade. dedicated to this very subject. The Horolovar 400-Day Clock Repair Guide by Charles Terwilliger. This text is. without reservation. one of the best examples of technical literature I've ever studied. The book has been published in many editions. An understanding of one of these can turn a 400-day movement

6 HOROLOGICAL TIMES

HUCK By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FBHI

from a cause of problems, to a real joy to service.

Vlhile we are on the 400-day subject, these clocks have disappeared from the market since the advent of a lookalike quartz clock that is less fragile. This means that the 400-day clock is destined to be our next prize as a collector's item. It is now time to prepare for that advent.

Again on the book, Mr. Henry B. Fried prepared the escapement section. This is a great piece of technical work that should be studied by every clockmaker, even if you are not interested in 400-day clocks.

Winding Ratchets, Click Pawls, and Rivets

Q V./hat tears up • winding ratch

ets, click pawls, and their rivets? Some clocks never have a problem, while others of the same make and age are in serious trouble.

A Probablytheowner's • winding prac

tice. Let's think about winding techniques. As

we wind we should turn the key with a smooth and steady rate, until the click seats, and then slack the key for our next grasp. Following this practice will usually eliminate ratchet and click problems for the entire life of the clock. On the other hand, relaxing the key abruptly is almost certain to pull the click rivet loose over a long period of time. Likewise, the same practice will ultimately catch the click in an unseated position. This will tear away the functional surfaces of both click and ratchet wheel. I call this "reckless winding." It's also hard on the winding square and the key socket.

Reckless winding of a barreled mainspring also transfers undue stress to the gear train, a factor that will augment wheel, pinion, and pivot failure.

Vie have two "time bombs" in clocks: a broken barreled mainspring just waiting to destroy the movement, and a falling weight waiting to destroy the case.

V./eights are usually wound with a crank to relieve some of the

shock on the cords. Cords are most subject to breaking with a rapid starting of the crank turn. or when we drop the progression back onto the click abruptly. It is prudent to wind the weights as earlier described and, in addition, support the weight from its lower end during winding.

I use woven dacron salt water fishing line for weight cords. I like to have a line with a test strength of ten to twenty times the actual clock weight. For example, a ninety-six-pound test line is about the right size for an English Grandfather clock. V./ith a double line and thirteen-pound weight the tension is less than seven pounds; that's about a fourteen times safety factor. Unfortunately, line of this type is not commonly available in inland cities. ~

If you have any questions, please write:

"Ask Huck'' do Horological Tzmes 701 Enterprise Drive

Harrison, Ohio 45030

It was a lousy way to start the day. I dropped my favorite pair of tweezers and broke one of the tips. Some may consider this as a minor problem but for me it is a major catastrophe.

First of all, you know how it is when you have to work without your favorite tools. It's like a day without sunshine; a shore without the ocean; Frick without Frack; peanut butter without whipped cream; the Oscar Awards without any envelopes; a balance wheel without a hairspring. In other words, things just aren't the way they should be.

The reason I hate to damage an old pair of tweezers is, I've never learned how to sharpen them. I know this is hard for many of you to believe, but it is true. Sharpening tweezers isn't my forte. In fact, I'm not very talented at it. Just once, I'd like to end up with both points the same length. No matter how hard I try, this is something I can't achieve. I often think how nice it would be to pick up a shock spring or straighten a hairspring with tweezers that have matching points or ones of equal lengths.

Years ago, I worked with a fellow who was very adept at sharpening his tools. It was very irritating to watch him sharpen things so easily. He was one of these ying-yangs whose bench was always neat and clean. When we sat side by side. we looked like a be-

8 HOROLOGICAL TIMES

ROCK

QUARRY

By Fred S. Burckhardt

fore and after picture. He was okay though because he did try to teach me how to sharpen my tools. Sorry to say, it was to no avail

Screwdrivers are different. Once in a while I can do a pretty good job when I sharpen them. There are times when the blades may not be very straight or may be of different widths across the ends, but all in all they serve their purpose. The most trouble is with the smaller blades. For me, it's rather difficult to get them to look anything close to a screwdriver blade. Some look very close to being a point on the side of a tweezer.

The first time I tried to sharpen a screwdriver was in school. The instructor showed me how easy it was, or so I thought. He then gave me another to sharpen. It was a fairly new one but by the time I was finished, the blade was about two millimeters long.

A graver is another tool with which I have no luck at all when it comes time to sharpen. Did you ever try to use a dull graver when cutting a staff out of a balance wheel? I'm sure it would be rather easy if it were sharp and had a point.

One time I thought I beat the system when I bought a carbide graver. This was something we weren't allowed to use while in school. The first few jobs were a cinch. That thing cut through the metal like it was butter. Then it started to get dull. This meant I

would have to buy a diamond wheel to sharpen it. Once again. I followed the instructions and used the proper setup and so forth. By the time I finished, the end of the graver had about as many facets on it as a diamond. I guess this is why they call it a diamond wheel.

When it comes to sharpening tools, never use an electric grinding wheel for your watchmaking tools. If it weren't for the beautiful array of colors that appears on each piece you grind, I wouldn't use it at all. For some reason. even after getting a nice sharp edge, it doesn't seem to last very long.

Sharp tools are an advantage when it comes to saving time and money. I'm jealous of the person who can take a graver and center a wheel arbor for repivoting and do it on the first try. One time I spent about three hours trying to center a piece with my dull graver. I never could get it right so I drilled it anyway. After putting in a new pivot, I turned it in the lathe. It acted like it was running off a cam. That darned thing never did work right after the clock was assembled.

Anyway, if you don't know how to sharpen your tweezers. screwdrivers. or gravers. don't send them to me. On the other hand, if you are really good at sharpening these items, send me your name and address and I'll send you a few pieces on which to practice. 'i

SHELIA TETREAULT Final Visual Inspector

Eveready Manufacturing Plant Bennington, VT.

Eveready®watch batteries are subjected to literally dozens of quality assurance tests, from component parts and raw material right through to finished products. It is

Shelia Tetreault is one member of the Eveready® team comprising the

here, however, in the aging and storage room, that Eveready®watch batteries get one tough final look. They must pass unflawed under the eagle eyes of Shelia and

"last line of defense" against any customer receiving an Eveready®

watch batteiy that doesn't meet our high quality standards.

EVEREADY® WATCH BATTERIES Exceptional quality and dependability, the result of a sophisticated

manufacturing process, a high degree of technical expertise and people

dedicated to making 1he finest.

MARCH 1996 9

As Easy As One, Tuo, Three During this presidential election year.

voters are speculating on the outcome of the fall election already. Political observers and writers are earning a livingjust commenting about who may be elected as President and whether the Congress will be liberal or conservative in philosophy. The final fall elections usually draw a large number of voters to choose between two candidates for each office. Unfortunately, the more important elections, the primaries. are often shunned by the vast majority of voters. Voters in primary elections actually choose the candidates who compete in the fmal elections. The final elections are usually a choice of one of two candidates that the average voter had very little influence in selecting.

Here at A WI. we are now in our own primary election season. Each affiliate chapter should be choosing a delegate and, if necessary, an alternate delegate to attend AWf s annual meeting to be held at the Commonwealth Hilton, just outside of the Greater Cincinnati Airport, on Friday, June 28, 1996.

According to its constitution, A WI is controlled by its board of directors. The directors are elected annually for a term of three years and are charged with operating the Institute. Because they are elected on an at-large basis. none of the elected directors has a direct responsibility to the affiliate chapters but rather to the membership as a body.

The founders of A WI structured the constitution to allow the affiliate chapters direct access to the board of directors by allowing an affiliated chapter delegate to sit on the board of directors with full voting power.

Each affiliate chapter has a constitutional right to send a representative to

10 HOROLOGICAL TIMES

AFFILIATE

CHAPTER

COLUMN By Jack Kurdzionak

A WI's annual meeting. The delegate is the voice of his chapter at the meeting. He has a right to vote on every issue the assembled delegates from all the chapters choose to address. and to choose a director from amongst the delegates. This director represents you. the affiliate chapter member. on the board of directors.

Any proposal passed by the assembled delegates will be brought before the full board of directors for their consideration. This access is not to be taken lightly. Several important proposals have come from the delegates to the board of directors and are now part of A WI policy. These proposals include changing our meeting date so that it does not coincide with the NA WCC annual meeting, changing the name of A WI to include clockmakers. and changing the rules for funding delegate's travel.

Every affiliate chapter, regardless of its size, has a duty to send a delegate to the annual meeting. Have your voice heard by A WI in the most direct way possible. Send a delegate to the meeting and have your chapter take an active role in the Institute' s operation. If you do nothing, all you can do is accept the choices that others make for you, just as voters who do not vote in the primaries let others choose their candidates for them. Here is what to do to get started: 1. Choose a chapter member, who is also

an A WI member, to be your delegate. You may also choose a qualified alternate who is also able to attend.

2. Instruct your delegate to bring any issues to the meeting which are important to your chapter. You have a couple of months to discuss these issues at your regular meetings before the delegate comes to A WI. If there are issues that are important to your chapter. see that your delegate has a good command of

the issue and can argue its points persuasively to the other delegates. Our delegate meetings are a lot like the New England open town meeting I wrote about two months ago in this column. Each delegate is given ample opportunity to present issues to the other delegates and they are openly discussed by all.

3. Secure the appropriate funding for the delegate's expenses. AWi has funds available to offset a portion of the travel costs of each delegate. You just have to request it on the forms provided. Some chapters are able to fund the balance of the trip· s costs out of chapter treasuries. Other chapter members contribute their own funds. Regardless of the source of the funding, make certain that the money for the trip is available. Plan early and choose the most convenient travel method for the delegate. Some drive. some fly, and a few take Amtrak. Advance planning for airline tickets saves a lot of money.

The founders of A WI realized the importance of the affiliate chapter delegates at the annual meeting because they understood that this is how the average member is able to be represented at his organization's annual meeting. Because each delegate is responsible to his constituents in his chapter, we have direct democracy at its best.

Please do the following this month, not next month, but right now in March. 1. Select a delegate. 2. Familiarize your delegate with issues im

portant to your chapter members. 3. Secure funding for the trip and make

travel plans now. If you need help or questions an

swered. please call me at (617) 438-6977, or call Milt Stevens at A WI. 'i

Zantec~·s Quartz Clean and Plasticlean aerosols have revolutionized the movement cleaning process by safely dissolving dry oils and other contaminents without disassembly of the gear train. Now take the next step in movement cleaning with our compressor system. The unique dual trigger action of the spray gun is capable of spraying dry filtered air as well as the cleaning solutions. No more need for expensive disposable air cans. The compressor Is foot-switch activated and quiet enough for a retail environment. The cost of cleaning one movement with the compressor system averages only 10 cents per movement!! Discover the Quartz Clean compressor system and reduce cleaning time to seconds.

1 ·comP.'ressor 't<Hs-1 Kits Include:

Dual-Action Spray Gun Quartz Clean Solvent - QC-32 Plasticlean Solvent - QC-PL 17

2 oz. Jar with cover 3 / 4 oz. Jar with cover Movement Grippers

Airbrush Holder Compressor Air-Hose In-Line Moisture Filter

1 /4" Female Pipe Thread Fitting Quartz Clean Airbrush Compressor Kits

QC-150C (Compressor NOT included) ••••••••••••••••••••• $175.95 QC-650C .......... ............... .......................... $389.95

(Quiet Compressor & AC foot Switch Included)

I wATcH cAse vAcuoM $v.si"~ixd Vacuuming watch cases has been the preferred cleaning method of watch factories throughout the world for many years. Zantech's case and dial vacuum system offers the same vacuuming capability at a price that any watchmaker can afford. The soft bristles of the vacuum brush loosen and vacuum dust and debris without scratching; especially suited for cleaning black dials.

' The compressor is quiet and compact for use in a retail environment. Handy foot switch provides instant vacuuming power. Vacuuming is the preferred cleaning method for watch cases and dials.

I CM-V1 000 ... .. .. .... $399.00 I (Call for information about multiple station systems)

MARCH 1 996 11

PICKLE BARREL

JEWELRY REPAIR,

PART 17-A

FLUXING, SHIELDING,

ANNEALING, AND PICKLING

By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW


Since many of the questions I have received over the years concern fluxing, shielding, annealing, and pickling, I am going to try to cover them in this article. To be a complete jewelry craftsman or repairman, it is important to be familiar with these processes and how to use them. Not being a chemist, physicist, or mathematician, I will try to pass on my experiences and knowledge in simple layman's terms limited to what works for me and my methods of application.

Fluxing is the first step in the application of solder after the preliminary preparations have been made. I will try to tell what flux is and what it does. The basic purpose of flux is to prevent metal from taking oxygen from the surrounding air, which causes an oxide to form thus preventing solders from flowing and bonding. The simplest form of soldering is soft soldering (using a lead base solder) which melts and flows at a low temperature of about 275°. A flux of zinc chloride can be used in soft soldering. Zinc chloride can be made by dissolving zinc in fullstrength hydrochloric (muriatic) acid. However, a prepared soft solder acid flux is available under many trade names and will work well on almost any metal except aluminum. (See Figure IB.) For convenience, there is acid core solder available which includes flux.

An acid core solder or an acid base flux should never be used on electrical connections. A resin paste is available that makes an adequate flux for electrical connections.

For soldering with hard solders on nonferrous metals, plain borax, powdered and mixed with water can be applied with a flux brush. (See Figure 2.) Such brushes are listed in the suppliers catalogs as borax brushes, but small paintbrushes work as well and can be purchased in most any variety store. To make a paintbrush practical, cut off the handle to make it three or four inches long. There are many prepared liq-

uid fluxes available that are more convenient and do a good job. I have always used "Batterns," but others such as "Flouron" seem to work as well for other people. (See Figure IE.) These seem to contain largely borax with other additives but most of these are only good when used on nonferrous metals. Metals containing iron or steel (ferrous metals) need another flux for bonding ferrous to ferrous or nonferrous to ferrous metals. For years, I used and recommended "Aircosil" flux for soldering ferrous materials such as steel or stainless steel. However, the suppliers I usually recommend, for some reason, stopped handling it. One of these suppliers substituted another brand and sent it to one of the people I had referred to them. This person then contacted me and I checked with the supplier. They sent a sample of "Kwik Flux" to me, which I tested and compared with the "Aircosil." (See Figure IC and ID.) The results were positive, so now I feel free to recommend "Kwik Flux" for use in soldering ferrous metals together, or ferrous to nonferrous metals such as gold, silver, nickel, copper, or brass. For hard soldering steel to steel the flux works fine. It will also work well with silver or gold solder. Brass can be used instead of silver or gold solder; this then is called brazing. The reason for using silver solder for hard soldering nonferrous metals to ferrous is that this solder has a lower melting temperature so it can be flowed without melting the nonferrous metal.

Since I have never had any success in soldering or welding aluminum, I cannot feel qualified to discuss it in depth, but there is an Electric Arc method called "Heliarc." It uses helium gas as the flux to keep the oxygen in the air away from the place being welded while a carbon arc melts an aluminum rod into the place being welded. It was explained to me that helium gas is non-inflammable and does keep the air away

from the aluminum which keeps it from oxidizing when heat is applied. The use of aluminum in jewelry will only produce an inexpensive piece that will not justify expensive repairs, so I have never pursued learning how to repair it.

There are many ways flux can be applied to places to be soldered, but the places must be clean. Cleaning is necessary even though some fluxes have cleaning properties. Any dirt that is flowed into the joint with the solder leaves the joint pitted. Usually before applying the flux, the place to be soldered is heated so the flux will turn frosted white when applied. This frosted white will be observed if the flux has properly covered the place to be soldered. The flux can also help hold the chip of solder in place while applying heat to flow it. If you only want the solder to flow in a limited area, only flux that area. It makes it easier to

observe where the flux is applied by preheating the area to be fluxed. It turns white as the flux reaches it. Only heat the metal hot enough to turn the flux white. This amount of heat will not oxidize the metal. but overheating can cause the metal to oxidize. When being really critical in confining the flux to a limited area, a piece of sharpened pegwood can be used as an applicator. When solder-tipping prongs. this works well and can allow the solder to adhere and form a dome on the prong end. This makes for a neat tip which can be well bonded to the end of the prong.

Today gold solder can be bought in hypo syringes . It is a powdered solder mixed with a flux and is especially useful in soldering fine chain. jump rings , or catches because a small amount can be dispensed and easily controlled. It is available in lOK yellow and white,

BUY THIS ELECTRONIC TESTER/ ANALYZER

FOR QUARTZ MOVEMENTS

BK-1412 Repairing Quartz Watches By Henry B. Fried

TWINCO

USA: 800-328-6009 Fax: 800-328-6001

Figure I. A. Mixture of Boric Acid and Alcohol, B. Ruby Fluid. C. Aircosil, D. Kwik Flux, E. Batterns

Figure 2. Borax and borax slate with brush.

AND GET 1 OF THESE 4 ITEMS,

(A $40.00 VALUE)

FREE

MARCH 1 996 1 3

14K yellow and white, and 18K yellow. The hypo syringes contain 1 "dwt" of solder and two tips of different sizes.

If solder does not flow when the parent metal becomes red-hot it is usually caused by the metal being oxidized before the flux was applied. When this situation exists, sometimes adding more flux will neutralize the oxide enough for the solder to flow. However. this can often leave a pitted solder joint. When the solder does not flow on the first attempt, it is wise to clean it with a pickling solution and then use a wire brush (bronze) on the polishing motor and flux it again. Then apply the solder and heat. If a good flux is used, this should produce a good clean solder joint.

Anti-flux is also a topic that should be discussed as it can be helpful in controlling the flow of solder. Yellow ochre is listed in the flux section of jewelers supply catalogs as an anti-flux. It is a powder and can be mixed with water or alcohol and applied with a flux brush or piece of sharpened pegwood. You can prevent the flow of solder when soldering close to other solder joints by covering them with this anti-flux. Potassium hydrosulphide, better known as liver of sulphur, is an oxidizing agent to oxidize copper. silver and brass to various shades of darkness. Although I have never tried it, I have been told that it will also work as an anti-flux. Wet powdered pumice or fine steel wool is required to remove it.

Shielding is necessary when applying heat to make hard solder joints especially where stones or enamels that will not stand heat are involved. The two primary reasons for shielding are to protect from damage by the heat being applied to flow solder and to protect from oxidization. Oxidization is caused from the heat which allows oxygen from the surrounding air to combine with the surface of the metal thus creating an oxide coating on the


metal which can keep the solder from flowing. Hard solder requires temperatures that make the metal red-hot. Stones and enamels that will not stand heat should be shielded.

There are several methods that can be used for shielding. There are several products currently being marketed that will shield items. Wrapping the part to be shielded with wet tissue is the method I use most, but some jobs can be shielded by immersing the part to be shielded in wet sand. (See Figure 3.) Either works well for most jobs. When using shielding, enough heat must be applied to flow the solder quickly because the heat will dry out the moisture surrounding the shielded portion. allowing the heat to get to the portion needing protection. When using the wet tissue, I can always tell if the heat is getting to the protected part because when dried out the tissue will start to scorch and smell. When this happens, re-wet the tissue and use more heat to make the solder flow more quickly. There is also a black putty substance that can be used for shielding which works well when soldering must be done close to the part needing shielding, but it is difficult to remove when finished. (See Figure 4.) Two other products that are available for shielding are called "HeatShield"® and "Kool Jool"®. They should be used according to their directions. I have never experimented with them and cannot vouch for their effectiveness. "HeatShield"® is available in an aerosol can of 6 ounces or a 16-ounce economy package. "Kool Jool"® is available in an 8-ounce package. Either product can be rinsed off with water. These two products are described as protecting jewels from heat so there is no need to remove them or spend a lot of time in setting up heat shields. The only information I have is from the descriptions in catalog listings so it would be wise to experiment with the products before flowing solder close to delicate jewel stones.

The boric acid and alcohol burn off to protect the piece of jewelry from oxidization is a generally accepted practice when doing hard soldering. I have been asked many times which I use, borax and alcohol, or boric acid and alcohol. My answer to that question is that having experimented with both, it appears to me that a larger amount of boric acid will stay suspended in the alcohol than will borax. thus making a stronger solution. Boric acid suspended in alcohol needs less agitation when being used, and leaves a heavier coating on the article being shielded. I always keep a jar of this mixture on my jewelers bench and use it on many of the jobs being worked on (see Figure lA.).

To apply it. stir the solution, then hold the article of jewelry to be shielded in heavy-duty tweezers. Dip the piece in the solution and ignite it. Let the solution burn off. This leaves a white frosted coating on the article of jewelry. As a note of caution: close the lid on the jar before igniting so there is no chance of the alcohol in the jar catching fire . This happened to a student in a jewelry class and when the jar caught fire. the student panicked and dropped the burning jar on the floor. Fortunately the floor was concrete and a fire extinguisher was handy; outside of some slight burns on one hand no serious damage was done. Fortunately the instructor was quickly in command of the situation.

Boric acid is an exceptionally fine way of protecting metals from oxidizing and can be used on goldfilled or electroplated metals as well as karat gold or silver. Plated metals have such a thin coating of gold or silver that if they are oxidized, the plating will be polished off in removing the oxidation. To avoid this. do not let the metal become oxidized and this method will work. All that will be needed to clean up is wash in water.

Shielding is quite important in repairing many of the stone set

pieces of jewelry being marketed today. Many promotions push genuine stones at prices that are comparable to synthetic stones. However. many genuine stones will not stand heat without damage. In order to compete price-wise. usually the genuine stones are poorly cut and proportioned and are not very good quality. Some of them are even dyed to obtain the color they should be. Many of them will bleach out almost clear when heat is applied to make a solder joint close to them. Many of these multi-stone rings are mounted in very lightweight mountings . The prongs holding the stones are very thin and fragile so when one prong is broken off it cannot be replaced without removing the stone or even the other stones close to it. If a job such as this is accepted for repair. sometimes several stones will need

to be removed because they cannot be shielded. Since they are not uniformly cut. care must be taken to insure that they go back in the same setting from which they were removed. Often after you have replaced the broken prong and are setting the stones back, another prong will break off so more stones must be removed. This can become an endless job, so learn to shield as best as it can be done, and if this will not work the job should be refused . These rings should be sent back to the manufacturer who can repair or replace them for a fraction of what it would cost you in time and material to put them back in good shape.

Only half of this article has been covered. so we will finish it in the next article as Fluxing, Shielding, Annealing and Pickling, Part 17-B.

'@

Figure 3.

• ' Figure 4.

• User friendly, all measurements run automatically • Measures the rate of all quartz and common

mechanical watches · • Measurement of IC and total consumptions • Automatic measuring times • Measurement of resistance, also tests for short

circuits and interrupts • Watch batteries tested, with low and high drain • Able to communicate information on a PC or a

Citizen Printer via an RS 232 interface

Witschi Electronics U.S.A., Ltd. P.O. Box 2 • 303 Broad Street • Palmyra, NJ 08065

Tel.: 1-609-829-1179 • Fax: 1-609-829-2266 Tel.: 1-800-882-7977 (U.S., Can. & Mexico only)

MARCH 1 996 1 5

TECHNICALLY WATCHES

ANTIQUE WATCH RESTORATION,

PART CXXlll

VIBRATING HAIRSPRINGS

By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, FBHI © 1996 (All rights reserved by the author)

The older antique watches usually vibrate between 14,000

and 18,000 V.P.H. Watches that vibrate above 18,000 V.P.H.

are more modern.


When selecting and vibrating a hairspring for a watch, the correct vibration that the balance wheel should make must first be determined. If there is no material available that gives this information, the correct number of vibrations per hour is determined by calculating the train of the watch.

Calculating the vibrations per hour that the balance wheel must make for the watch to keep correct time is done in the following manner. Count the teeth in the center wheel, third wheel. fourth wheel, and escape wheel. Multiply the escape wheel teeth by 2. This is done because the balance wheel receives two impulses for each tooth of the escape wheel. Next, count the leaves in the third pinion, fourth pinion, and escape pinion. Then multiply wheel teeth times teeth and pinion leaves times leaves and divide the teeth by the leaves. When we count the teeth and leaves in our example. we have: Center wheel 80, third wheel 70, fourth wheel 60, escape wheel 15, third pinion 10, fourth pinion 8, and escape pinion 7. The following shows an example of how the train is calculated.

FORMULA: T x T x 2 = Vibration of Balance Wheel. LxL

Substituting numbers. we would have:

Vibrations Per Hour

Center Third Fourth Escape Wheel Wheel Wheel Wheel

80 x 70 x 60 x 15 x 2 18,000 = = 10 x 8 x 7 V.P.H. Third Fourth Escape Pinion Pinion Pinion

Since the center wheel turns one revolution per hour. the result of the calculation will be vibrations per hour of the balance wheel. If we divide the vibrations per hour by 60. we will get the vibrations per minute. Also, if we divide the vibrations per minute by 60, we will have the vibrations per second.

The train calculation just completed is for a watch that makes 18,000 vibrations per hour. This is the most common vibration for a watch. Other beat trains are shown in Table 1. This table shows trains for watches which have beats from 14,000 V.P.H. to 21,600 V.P.H. Trains are classified as slow, medium, fast, quick, and ultra quick. A slow train is 14,000 to 14,400. A medium train is 15,000 to 17,920. A fast train is 18,000. A quick train is 19,000 to 21,600 beat. An ultra quick train is one which requires a balance wheel and hairspring that vibrates at 28,800 or 36,000. The older antique watches usually vibrate between 14,000 and 18,000 V.P.H. Watches that vibrate above 18.000 are more modem.

Beats per Beats per Hour Minute

14,000 233-113 14,400 240 14,400 240 14,400 240 14,400 240 15,600 260 16,200 270

16,489-217 274-8110 16,800 280 16,800 280 16,800 280 16,900 281-2/3

16,925-1127 282 17,010 283-5/10 17,160 286 17,280 288 17,280 288 17,280 288 17,280 288 17,325 288-3/4

17,333-1/3 288-9/10 17,550 292-1/2 17,920 298-2/3 18,000 300 18,000 300 18,000 300 18,000 300 18,000 300 18,432 307-2/10 18,850 314-2110 18,900 315 19,600 326-2/3 19,800 330 19,800 330 19,825 330-4/10 20,020 333-2/3 20,250 337-112 21,450 357-5110 21,600 360 21,600 360 21,600 360

Center Wheel

80 64 96 96 80 64 70 57 70 80 70 54 52 72 64 54 63 72 72 64 60 54 70 54 60 80 75 75 72 58 64 80 80 66 61 56 54 66 80 64 60

TABLE 1 WATCH TRAINS

Third Third Pinion Wheel

12 70 8 64 12 90 12 90 10 75 8 60 8 56 8 54 8 64 8 64 8 64 6 52 6 52 8 64 8 63 6 48 7 56 8 64 8 64 8 63 6 50 6 54 8 64 6 50 6 48 10 80 8 64 8 64 8 64 6 54 8 63 10 70 10 72 8 64 6 54 6 55 6 54 8 60 8 72 8 60 6 54

Fourth Fourth Escape Escape Pinion Wheel Pinion Wheel

10 70 7 15 8 60 8 15 12 90 12 16 12 75 10 16 10 80 10 15 8 60 6 13 7 54 7 15 7 60 6 15 8 64 8 15 8 60 8 14 8 60 8 16 6 50 6 13 6 52 6 13 8 63 8 15 7 55 6 13 6 48 6 15 7 56 7 15 8 64 8 15 8 60 7 14 8 55 6 15 6 48 6 13 6 50 6 13 8 64 7 14 6 48 6 15 6 45 6 15 10 75 8 15 8 64 8 15 8 60 8 16 8 64 8 16 6 50 6 13 8 60 6 15 10 70 6 15 8 55 6 15 8 60 6 15 6 50 6 13 6 54 6 13 6 50 6 15 6 60 6 13 8 64 8 15 6 54 6 15 6 48 6 15

MARCH 1996 17

Equipment Used for Vibrating Hairsprings The equipment used for vibrating hairsprings can range

from the most simple to more complicated. The equipment used by the watchmaker is usually quite simple; whereas, the equipment used in the modern watch factories is more complicated. Most of the equipment used in watch factories for vibrating hairsprings is electronic.

The hairspring vibrator that is shown in Figure 1 was used in watch factories years ago before the electronic age and is still used by the watchmaker at the bench. Specialists doing hairspring vibrating for the trade may also use this vibrator in some cases. This vibrator has a master balance wheel and hairspring encased in a container mounted on the table of the vibrator. This master balance is the timing source for the balance and hairspring being vibrated. The disadvantage of this method is that there needs to be a different master balance unit for each vibration encountered. This would be very expensive to have a master balance for each of the many watch vibrations. However, the vibrator can be used for 18.000 VP.H. balance wheels since most of the watches made have been in this category. A few other master balances could be added for use in vibrating other popular balance frequencies such as 14,400, 16,200, 19,800, and 21,600.

---J

Figure 1.


This method of vibrating hairsprings is called the comparison method. That is. we are comparing a trial balance and hairspring to a master balance which is timed to a given frequency.

Vibrating a Hairspring by the Comparison Method A description of the vibrator shown in Figure 1 is as

follows. View A shows the master balance unit. This unit is held on the vibrator table by two or three screws. A glass covers the master balance. This glass supports the lower pivot of the balance being vibrated. View B shows the spring loaded button used to stop the master balance from moving. View C shows the tweezers for holding the hairspring. View D shows the spring loaded shaft and button that is pressed to open the tweezers. View E shows the knob that is used to turn the tweezers in the housing of the arm F. The tweezers are turned to locate the balance being vibrated exactly over the master balance wheel. View G shows the knob used to move arm F back and

Figure 2.

B

Figure 3.

forth in its housing for locating the balance being vibrated over the master balance. View H shows the knob used for raising or lowering the tweezers holding the hairspring of the balance being vibrated. View I shows the table of the vibrator. View J shows the base of the vibrator. The table of the vibrator is free to tum on the base of the tool.

View K, Figure 1 shows the lever that is pressed and released to start the master balance and the trial balance at the same time. The lower pivot of the trial balance must be resting on the glass as shown for it to start with the master balance. The trial balance wheel should be located exactly centered over the master balance with the arms of both balances lined up with each other. Then lever K is pressed and released to start the balances.

The balances are observed to determine if they stay in step with each other. If they get out of step, then it must be determined if the trial balance is faster or slower than the master balance. If the trial balance is faster than the master balance, the spring must be lengthened to slow it down. On the other hand, if the trial balance is slower than the master balance, the spring must be shortened in the tweezers. When the arms of the two balances stay synchronized, the trial balance will be timed to the master balance. After the spring has been vibrated, its excess is cut off exactly one-half tum outside the timing point. This gives extra spring to work with when fitting the hairspring to the watch and makes it easy to find the timing point.

Vibrating Hairsprings by the Counting Method Figure 2 shows a simple hairspring vibrator that can

be made up by the watchmaker to be used for vibrating hairsprings by the counting method. A flattop watch crystal is cemented to the base of the vibrator, as shown, for the balance staff pivot to rest on while the vibrating is being done. The balance wheel being vibrated can be started into motion by turning the base back and forth on the bench, or it can be started by using a small watch oiler against one of the balance screws. The vibrations of the test balance are counted and timed with a stop watch or chronograph.

Figure 3 shows how the counting of the vibrations is done. As the balance wheel is vibrating, end "A" of the balance arm is viewed. When the balance arm reaches the end of its excursion at point "B," you would say zero and start the stop watch. Then each time the balance arm reached point "B," you would count 1, 2, 3, 4, and so on until you reached the desired number of counts. On the last number, you would stop the watch. If you reach the proper number of counts before the second hand reaches the proper time, this means that the spring is too short and too fast. The tweezers are repositioned, making the spring longer. On the other hand, if, when we reach the desired count and the second hand of the stop watch has passed the stopping point, this means the spring is too long and too slow. In this case, the tweezers are repositioned, mak-

535 16th St., Suite 840 • Denver, CO 80202-4243

TOLL FREE PHONE & FAX 1-800-332-4158

Serving Watchmakers & Jewelers Since 1918

ONE TOLL FREE CALL DOES IT ALL Watch Parts • Eveready & Renata Batteries • Watch Bands

Crystals • Movements • Tools • Equipment • Supplies

Ultrasonics • Cleaning Solutions • Solder

Casting Supplies • Jewelry Boxes

./ No Minimum Order ./ Orders Shipped Same Day

./ Expert Material Clerks

MARCH 1 996 1 9

ing the spring shorter. The process is repeated until the proper count is made in the required time.

If a hairspring is being vibrated for an 18,000 beat watch, this would mean that the trial wheel should vibrate 300 vibrations per minute. Since we are counting when the balance arm goes in only one direction, then we are counting oscillations or two vibrations. In this case, we should get only 150 oscillations in one minute. At first, we only need to count for 30 seconds which means that we should get 75 oscillations in 30 seconds. After the timing point has been found, the oscillations should be counted for a minute or longer. This is to make sure that the timing point is correct.

Second Method of Timing the Vibrations Figure 4 shows a second method of timing the vibra

tions when vibrating a hairspring. When this method is used, the arm of the vibrator is turned 180° so the test balance wheel is suspended over the dial side of a pocket watch which has a second hand. The lower pivot of the test balance should rest on the watch crystal over or near the second hand. If the base of the vibrator is large enough to support the watch, then the watch can be used on the base of the vibrator.

Figure 4.

Figure 5.


When starting the count, as the balance arm reaches the end of its excursion at "B," we would say zero. We would keep saying zero at the end of each balance excursion at "B" until the second hand reaches the starting point, saying zero on the starting point, then 1, 2, 3, 4, and so on until the desired count is reached. At this instant, the position of the second hand is checked to see if the test balance has made its vibrations in the correct number of seconds.

Vibrating a Hairspring Without a Vibrator Figure 5 shows how a hairspring can be vibrated with

out a vibrator. The balance is suspended over a pocket watch with hand-held tweezers as shown. The balance is turned with the fingers to store up energy in the hairspring and then released to start the balance vibrating. The counting is done in the same manner as in the previous example.

Using the Watchmaster Hairspring Vibrator Figure 6 shows a Watchmaster hairspring vibrator

which was made by American Time Products, Inc. about 1950 as an attachment to be used with their Models G7 and G 11 watch-rate recorders. This hairspring vibrator has an electric cord attached which has a special plug that plugs into the Watchmaster where the V3 thyratron tube fits. The tube is removed so the cord can be plugged into the tube's socket. Then, the tube is plugged into the spe-

Figure 6.

cial plug. The vibrator can be left plugged into the machine permanently without affecting the normal use of the machine.

The vibrator has a lead contact plate mounted on top of the table for the lower pivot of the balance wheel to contact at the end of each cycle of oscillation or every other vibration. As the balance and hairspring is being vibrated, the winding and unwinding of the hairspring causes the balance to be raised and lowered. When the balance is lowered, the pivot touches the contact plate and causes the Watchmaster to print a dot on its chart paper. Each time the pivot touches the contact plate, the machine will print a dot on the chart which will make a pattern that is compared with the standard pattern for that beat watch. These standard patterns are shown in the Watchmaster Handbook. The balance being vibrated will make onehalf as many dots on the chart paper as is shown on the standard chart, but the pattern of dots should be the same as the standard pattern.·

How to Time the Hairspring The timing of the hairspring on the hairspring vibra

tor is a simple task. From the basic principle of timing odd beat watches as is described in the Watchmaster Handbook, the rate of the hairspring being tested can be approximated by the number of lines on the chart.

Count the lines made by the test balance, multiply by

Figure 7.

2, and divide this by the product obtained plus 1. The ratio, always less than unity, will give the approximate rate of the hairspring when multiplied by 18,000. For example, suppose the reading shows six lines. 6 x 2 = 12 and 12 + 1 = 13. Multiply 18,000 x 12

/13

and the result is 16615.384.

Now. suppose there are fourteen full turns or coils in the hairspring being tested. Multiply 14 x 16615 = 12.9

18.000 or about the number of coils there should be in the hair

spring.

Using the G47 Watchmaster for Vibrating Hairsprings The G47 Watchmaster watch-rate recorder has the

hairspring vibrating features built into the machine. Figure 7 shows the watch holder of the machine and how it is used for vibrating hairsprings. The balance being vibrated is suspended over the microphone by a pair of tweezers which goes through the hole in a rubber bushing in the arm of the watch holder. The tweezers are adjusted up or down in the bushing so the balance is at the proper height to allow the lower pivot to tap the microphone at the end of each oscillation of the balance. The tapping is picked up by the machine and printed on the chart paper on the drum of the machine. The machine can be set for some odd number vibrations as well as standard vibrations.

"Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month. ~

BIBLIOGRAPHY

DeCarle, Donald. Watch and Clock Encyclopedia. London: N.A.G. Press, 1959. pp. 261-262.

DeCarle, Donald. Practical Watch Adjusting. London: N.A.G. Press, 1964, pp. 42-43, and Plates 1 and 2 between pp. 146-147.

Fried, Henry B. Bench Practices for Watch Repairers. Denver. Colorado: Roberts Publishing Co., 1954, pp. 29-47.

Jendritzki, H. "Watch Adjustment," Swiss Watch and Jewelry Journal. Lausanne, Switzerland: 1963, pp. 37-42.

Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking. "Vibrating Hairsprings," Training Unit #7. New York: 1972, pp. 155-166.

Perkins. Archie B. "Technically Watches," Horological Times. Cincinnati: A.W.I. Press, August 1988, pp. 14-17.

Sweazey, Thomas B. "Fitting Hairsprings in Watches, Section 389, Vibrating Hairsprings," Master Watchmaking, Lesson 20. Chicago: 1908.

MARCH 1996 21

MUSIC Box CLOCKS

TWELVE-TUNE MUSIC Box WITH SIX BELLS, PART 8

By Leo A. Jaroslaw ©1992 (All rights reserved by the author)


Introduction In Part 7 we had a general discussion about clockmakers

repairing music boxes. along with some warnings and cautions. We then started to disassemble the box we are working on. Let's continue.

Disassembly Continued 5. Remove the comb (2). 5.1. Check comb-mounting screws (34) for marks. Caution: Recheck that cylinder has stopped at the end

of a tune. In this position the teeth of the comb are within the gap provided in the row of pins at the end of a tune. If not in this position there is insufficient clearance between the comb teeth and cylinder pins to prevent damage to the pins as the comb is removed.

5.2. Loosen comb screws/washers. Remove all but one screw on each end of the comb.

Note: There are two alignment dowel pins (35) attached to the base of the comb. These dowel pins fix the position of the comb by placement into close-fitting holes in the bed plate.

Caution: The comb dowel pins have to be worked out of the bed gently. Rock the comb so that the teeth tips go up and away from the cylinder. Loosen the end screws as necessary.

5.3. When the comb dowel pins are free from the bed plate, lift the comb and place it upside down on a clean flat surface (see Figure 8.1).

Caution: When holding the comb, care must be taken to prevent damage to the tuning weights ( 13) and/or the dampers (36) attached to the underside of the teeth. (See Figure 8.2.)

A Variation The procedure just described is for music box movements

without bells or drums. The movement we are discussing has six bells. These are called "Bells in View" as they are visible in the box.

Some movements with bells have split combs. The tunes are played on one comb, while the bells, drums, etc. each have their own comb. All are aligned together, but they can be removed independently. In some movements there is only one continuous comb, with a section of the teeth actuating the bells through separate linkages.

The movement we are discussing is of the latter type. Therefore, the removal procedure is different from the one previously described. Following, in steps 6 through 7. is the different removal procedure for our movement versus the movement described in steps 5 through 5.3.

Caution: Extra care must be taken with such a unit since the comb cannot be removed immediately as previously suggested.

6. Carefully tum the movement over. The spring barrel on one side and the governor bracket on the other side should be resting on 2 x 4" wooden blocks. (See Figures 7.2 and 8.3.)

12 3

2 34 5

34 Comb Mounting Screw/Washer

Figure 7.2 Movement safely on blocks.

2

I : ~- ·----- -- - -

- ·- - ~ ~ . . , . i:.rt~ii-' . '"'!"' .

T 14

I 13

35 Alignment Dowel Pin

Figure 8.1 Underside of comb.

36

37 36 Damper 37 Tooth Tip

Figure 8.2 Underside of teeth showing dampers.

MARCH 1 996 23

6.1. Check through the linkage ( 44) and make a diagram showing which tooth on the comb actuates which bell striker.

6.1.1. Check for markings on the linkage-bell rods ( 42), bell rod extensions (49), and bridge (43).

Note: On the movement we are discussing, the bell rods ( 42) are numbered ( 48).

6.2. Remove bell on/off lever (45). (See Figure 8.3.) 6.3. Remove felt-padded stop plate (54). (See Figure

8.4.) 6.4. Remove pins (47) which attach the brass bell oper

ating levers ( 46) mounted underneath the bell comb teeth and the linkage to the bell rods. (See Figures 8.3, 8.4, and 8.5.)

Note: These pins are usually brass, about 1116" in diameter, and press fit. They are usually flush with the sides of the bell operating lever. The short extension, if any, beyond the bar must allow for full clearance between the levers during operation. This construction makes removal difficult.

Note: The pins in this movement were mostly buggered. They didn't appear to be original. Most likely, they were installed during a previous repair.

Note: To accomplish pin removal, I modified the pliers (51) normally used to remove pins in clockwork (see Figure 8.5, view A). This was accomplished by grinding the outside of the jaws thin enough to fit between the levers. Then I drilled a hole partially into the solid jaw. This hole was centered in the slot of the slotted jaw, sized to accept a pin (52) thinner than the link pin (47). Next, I inserted the pin (52) tightly into the hole. The pin was cut and filed so that it protruded from the solid jaw just under the length of the linkage pin. (See Figure 8.5.)

44 Bell Link 51 Modified Plier 46 Bell Operating Lever 52 Push Pin 47 Link Pin 53 Slot

Figure 8.5 Pin removing pliers.


6.5. Mark the L/R bell rod bridges (43), if not already identified (48).

6.6. Remove the L/R bell bridges. 6.7. Remove bell mounting board (38) and set aside. 6.8. Tum movement right side up and carefully set it

back on the wooden blocks. Caution: Care must be taken not to touch any of the

cylinder pins or comb teeth. 7. Remove comb. Note: Follow procedure described previously in steps 5

through 5.3. This ends Part 8. In Part 9 we will continue the disas-

sembly procedure. ~

38 Bell Mounting Board 39 Bell Mounting Board Braket 40 Bell Mounting Board Hammer Slots 41 Bell Hammer 42 Bell Rod 43 Bell Rod Bridge 44 Bell Link 45 Bell ON/OFF Lever

Figure 8.3 Underside of movement with bells.

( r

4 1

46 Bell Operating Lever 47 Link Pin 48 Bell Rod/Bridge Identifying Numbers 49 Bell Rod Extension

Figure 8.4 Bell operating components.

1----46

- ~1--------.--------l 0-111---47

50 Cylinder Pin 54 Cylinder Pin 55 Adjustment Screw

MARCH 1 996 25

A SEVEN HORN

TRUMPETER By David J. Carlson

I thoroughly enjoyed working on this clock and

was truly humbled by the elegance

of the wood and metal work.


A collector friend of mine brought in the case and movement for the Black Forest clock shown in Figure 1. The clock measures 50" high, 24" wide, and 14" deep. The elegant carvings are more than 5" deep. The movement is a seven horn trumpeter made in the late 1800s by the E.R. Wehrle & Co., a famous maker of this type of clock. The poor condition of the music portion of the movement required restoration by a specialist.1 My task was to mount the movement in the case and assure functionality. I welcomed the opportunity since the only trumpeter I had ever worked on had three small individual horns and bellows. I have since found out that a three horn clock is called a blow instead of a trumpeter because with only three horns it cannot play a melody.

In Figure 2 the detail of the figure representing the trumpeter can be seen. After the clock strikes the hour on a gong, the trumpets start playing a portion of the William Tell Overture, the doors swing open, and the trumpeter moves out. The mechanism is very similar to the system used in a cuckoo clock. The double or "split" door is not in place in Figure 2. The two sections of the door are driven by two "eyes" at either side of the base of the figure.

Figure 3 is a front view of the movement. The plate portion of the clock measures 9" x 7" x 3". The music section on top adds 1 112" and contains the bellows, reeds, and valves. The barrel on the lower left drives the trumpeter gear train. It is a formidable assembly and requires two hands, at least for me, to wind it. The winding arbor for the time is immediately below the center wheel. and the strike winding arbor is on the lower right. The lever on the right senses the hour/half-hour from pins on the rear of the cannon pinion.

Figure 4 is the right side or

trumpeter side of the movement. Immediately above the music roll are the levers which sense the pins on the music roll and control the valves. The upper section of the wooden portion is divided into two sections which are driven by the two levers. The action is very much like that of an accordion. An important part of the movement restoration was to recover the bellows and adjust the valve assemblies.

Figure 5 is a rear view of the movement. The two lift levers that operate the split bellows are clearly visible. The two springs give a positive bias to the bellows drive. The count wheel for the hours strike is visible immediately to the left of the "music roll." The gong hammer and arbor are also visible.

Figure 6 is the left side or gong strike side of the movement. The predominant feature is the arm hammer arbor. Note the comparatively small barrel for the hour strike.

Figure 7 is the rear view of the case with movement in position. There are four "L" brackets and four posts (visible in Figure 3) which locate and hold the movement in the case. The brackets are captured by rotating latches.

An important feature of the trumpet portion of the movement is the thin brass horns which are sized to enhance the quality of each individual note . After the movement is mounted in the case the horns must be inserted in place in the hole beneath their respective valves. There are five horns on the left side of the movement and two on the right side. The horns increase in size, starting with the smallest (#1) in the front on the left side and ending with the largest (#7) in the front on the right side. A piece of paper tape was wrapped on the small end of each horn to increase the friction and maintain the horn in the hole.

The three largest horns have been secured on the bottom edge to the inside of the case wall. Figure 8 is a view of pipes 1, 2. and 3 as seen through the left side door. Figure 9 shows horn #7, the largest as seen through the right side door. An important use of the side doors is to provide access to the upper two movement case latches. The latches are visible in Figures 8 and 9, immediately below the front corner of the bellows assembly.

Test Setup

Figure I. Seven horn trumpeter.

Figure 2. Trumpeter figure.

When working on a valuable and oftentimes heavy clock it is important to have a safe and stable setup. I like to set a clock on the edge of the workbench and secure it so that I have easy access for replacing the movement and other detail work. The size of the trumpeter case placed it too high for the workbench so I used a little "Workmate" bench which has come in handy for such tasks. The setup shown in Figure 10 uses a chain from one of the hangers to a

Figure 3. Movement, front view.

Figure 4. Right-side view.

VIGOR" CIRCUIT MAKER" Repair any fine wire circuit with minimal effort .. . Repaired and ready for use in one minute!

CE-890 Liquid & applicator

VIGOR" RETRO-EZE Replace new quartz movement in antique watch case. Base and catalyst form a mold for the new movement. Hardens in 5 minutes.

CE-410 Two-part system

SCREWDRIVER SET Nine precision screwdrivers with swivel hex heads. Color-coded for easy selection . Includes 19 extra blades.

SD-900 Set with stand

Call for the name of your nearest distributor

800-84 7-4188

MARCH 1 996 27

"C" clamp. The clock is front heavy and the chain assures that the clock won't fall forward. A heavy vise or other suitable weight is hung on the opposite end of the bench to counterbalance the weight. The setup is very convenient and even allows the back to be placed on the case to check the position of the gong hammer relative to the gong.

Figure 5. Back view.

Figure 6. Left-side view.


Preventing Disaster One caution in any setup is to

assure the integrity of the case. When starting the setup in Figure 10, I wanted to temporarily secure the clock with a "C" clamp on the back rail of the case (the part that has the slot to receive the back cover) to the bench while I set up the chain. A vigorous tug on the rail proved that it was very weak and inspection revealed that it had been

Figure 7. Movement installed in case.

Figure 8. View of horns through left door.

nailed too many times. I subsequently mended the rail with glue and two brass "L" mending plates.

I thoroughly enjoyed working on this clock and was truly humbled by the elegance of the wood and metal work. ~

1 Restoration of Trumpeter and Reed Organ Clocks: Frank Snyder. Berkeley Heights. NJ 07922. Phone: (908) 464-0516.

Figure 9. Pipe #7 through right door.

Figure 10. Test setup.

AWi SEEKS APPLICANTS

With the anticipated retirement of Milt Stevens as Executive Secretary, September 30, 1996, AWi seeks applications for this position from qualified individuals and is promulgating the following notice.

EMPLOYMENT NOTICE

Position: Executive Secretary - American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute

Status: Chief Executive Officer Salary: Negotiable Start Date: Between August 15 and September 30, 1996

The initial review of applicants will begin on or about May L 1996. Personal interviews will be scheduled after the initial review.

Essential Job Function: Serve as the Chief Executive Officer and oversee the entire administrative function of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute.

Responsible To: The Board of Directors

Qualifications: Successful management experience; knowledge and understanding of Horology preferred; academic degree desirable; demonstrated "people skills;" ability to analyze. reason and solve problems; creative and innovative. Final candidates may be required to complete a battery of aptitude/personality evaluation instruments. Some stated qualifications may be substituted with approved combinations of education and experiences.

Other Preferences: Preference will be given to candidates with extensive industry experience, management experience, and/or watch/clock repair experience. A WI Central is a nonsmoking workplace.

A WI IS AN EQUAL OPPORTUNITY EMPLOYER.

Apply in confidence to: Personnel Committee

AWi Central 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, Ohio 45030

QSv61) WE'RE

INTERESTED IN YOUR

COLOR SLIDES

The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute knows that there is a wealth of talent in its membership and that this talent is not only in the field of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera is not also there.

Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty of your camera work can possibly participate in having your own picture reproduced on the cover of Horological Times. The covers of Horological Times are reproduced from color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature, and what you submit must be a color slide. Color photos are not acceptable.

If your color slide is used, you will receive an 8 1/2 x 11 inch color photo. It will be framed and sent to you for your enjoyment. Mail your color slide with description to:

Horological Times 701 Enterprise Drive


All slides become the property of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute.

MARCH 1 996 29

First the good news, and there is a lot of it. At the time of this writing, Dewey Clark had successfully completed instructing the first "Repair of the Ship"s Chronometer" course. This course is probably the first of its kind taught in the states. It took place in the Marvin E. Whitney Education Center in Harrison, Ohio. Mr. Clark had a very enthusiastic group, and all indications are that they received more than their money's worth. I'm sorry I don"t have any photos of this course. If anyone that was in the class would like to share their photos, I would be happy to put them in next month's Horological Times.

Next. I would like to congratulate all the A WI members in the Seattle, Washington region who have registered for upcoming Bench Courses in their area. The response has been fantastic~ This is a good example of how the system is supposed to work. Members from the Seattle area contacted AWI during the past year and requested several different bench courses. We gave them what they wanted and Seattle area watchmakers and clockmakers are coming out the woodwork to participate. This is not to say that we don't have any other "horological hot spots" in the country, because we do. This is just the most recent


EDUCATION

UPDATE By James E. Lubic

example of what a little communication can do.

We recently sent a letter to all Affiliate Chapters inviting them to request courses for their area. To date, we have yet to hear any response. The same is true of the comment I made in last month's "Education Update" appealing to the membership for input as to where you would like to see a particular course scheduled. My mailbox is still empty. Again, I will ask members to send their request for courses to: AWI Bench Courses, 701 Enterprise Drive. Harrison, OH 45030 or fax: (513) 367-1414.

Our lathe instructor, Roy Hovey. rec.en~ly completed the first ever "Introduction to the Micro Lathe" in Minneapolis, Minnesota. The class was overflowing with interested students. They must be a very trainable group, as Mr. Hovey has designed a more advanced class for the micro lathe which is scheduled for June in Minneapolis.

Recently we received a request from Ray Flood, also of Minnesota, to design a course on Platform Escapement Repair. We contacted one of our veteran clock instructors. Roland Iverson. who stepped up and met the challenge. This course will have already taken place by the time you read this, but it is also available to be

scheduled in other cities. Last but not least, if you live

near Austin, Texas; San Diego. California; or Cincinnati, Ohio be sure to register for the "Quartz Perpetual Calendar" or "ETA New Products" courses coming to your area in March and April. Remy Waelchli will be your instructor. He is the Director of the ETA Training Center in Grenchen. Switzerland. He is an excellent instructor and always willing to help.

Now for the bad news, and even this could be good news for you. There are plenty of openings in all the bench courses except the ones in Seattle (see schedule on back of magazine). Rather than go through all the upcoming classes scheduled at Project Extend. I will also say there are plenty of openings as well (see schedule on back of magazine).

If you need financial assistance to help out with the cost involved in taking a Project Extend class, The ELM Trust has $250 grants available that are designed to help make your desire a reality. When the Trust okays the grant. AWI waives your tuition fee. The only cost to you is transportation to A WI. The grant money can be used for room and board. Just write A WI for an ELM Trust Project Extend Grant Application.~

Figure 1. Mary Wickland looks up from her work during the Introduction to the Lathe Program Course held in Eagan, Minnesota.

Figure 2. Kern Schwartz turns a spring barrel during the Micro Lathe Course held in St. Paul, Minnesota.

PYRAMID/DIAMOND CRYSTALS

Now available in sizes 18.0 to 32mm, in .5 increments. This new crystal fits popular fashion watches by Fossil® and many more. All made of tempered mineral glass and have

;~:ge:2+ a $5.95

6-11

$6.95 3-5

$8.96 Each ~· I I

May be assorted for quantity pricing!!!

Available in black ring with gold numerals & gold ring with black numerals. Available in sizes 18.00mm to 32.0mm in .5mm increments.

XII

u.os3+

Wholesale Jeweler & Watchmaker Supplies To:mpa, Florida 33602-1200

MARCH 1 996 31

TECHNOLOGICAL REVOLUTION

IN THE WATCH MANUFACTURING

INDUSTRY By Scott Chou,

Director Service/Production Planning, Seiko Corporation of America

It is unrealistic to not recognize that the watch industry is

undergoing constant change. What is necessary for us to do now is to make change work.


futroduction People often resist change. and it is not unusual for a mild

form of hostility to accompany changes when they are first introduced; watchmakers are no different. When the unbreakable (almost) mainspring was introduced, many watchmakers were unhappy because replacing the mainspring was a profitable business.

The introduction of shock-proof watches, self-winding and complicated day/date mechanism watches. as well as the evolution of quartz watches in the past three decades have all met some degree of resistance. As time goes by, however, professional watchmakers learn to accept changes and adopt methods of dealing with them. In addition. there are other matters watchmakers have to face today such as coping with new materials, new cleaning techniques, and using unfamiliar products.

In the late 1960s, the first generation of analogue quartz movements introduced by Seiko improved the mechanical movement's physical limitations of structure and design by changing from mechanical oscillation (power) to electronic. The result was a greatly increased level of accuracy. The major components remained the same as in the mechanical movements except for the electronic parts.

Seiko introduced quartz watches in America in the early 1970s, and in 1975 I was asked to lead the first quartz watch bench course for watchmakers in the United States. Twenty years later, I again feel a special honor in having the opportunity of being the first to present information concerning new servicing techniques for third-generation technology to the members of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Following this dramatic improvement in time accuracy, in the early 1980s the second generation of analogue quartz movements further improved the movement structure by adopting newly developed materials to the mainplate of the movement. This allowed the reduction of the number of parts.

In the late 1980s, Seiko was again the pioneer in applying technological innovation to manufacturing the third generation of analogue quartz movements by the use of a highly sophisticated reinforced resin polymer compound known as "Engineering Plastic." This represented a continuing effort to develop products that are more durable, smaller, lighter, and multifunctional after the first and second generation of analogue quartz watches.

With highly precise forming techniques, a single. complex component is molded of engineering plastic, replacing a conventional component which is an assembly of several metal parts.

As the result, components such as the mainplate, train wheel bridge, gears and pinions require less outer protection. This is because engineering plastic possesses excellent electrical insulation properties. With far fewer parts, the third generation movements are indeed smaller, lighter, more multifunctional and have a longer battery life. These achievements would have been impossible without engineering plastics.

What are the differences between metals, conventional plastic and engineering plastic? Metals, as used for the past century in watchmaking. have always provided high mechanical strength but have been difficult to work on. They are heavy and highly susceptible to corrosion. While conventional plastic would have

been lighter and easier to work on, it was unacceptable for watch use due to its low resistance to shock, wear, chemicals, and heat. With the introduction of engineering plastic, which is reinforced with glass fibers to enhance strength, a new material has been found for more efficient watchmaking use that combines the advantages of both metals and conventional plastic. (See Chart A)

Every part uses a different kind of engineering plastic depending on its prnpose, incorporating various compounds to satisfy the required strength.

The chart shows that the quality of movements made of engineering plastic overall is equal to or better than conventional movements made of metal. However, to service these products technicians should update their servicing technique either with the assistance of the manufacturer or through their horological association.

Precautions Before Servicing Before servicing, check the technical guide or service guide

for do's and don'ts. 1) Assembly and disassembly

Usually, a universal movement holder is used for disassembly or assembly work However, technicians often put too much force on the main plate when removing and fixing screws. This causes the parts to be deformed or damaged. Using a self-made jig as illustrated above will minimize the problem. 2) Handfitting

When fitting hands, be sure to set the movement in the hard

Soft, thick mat to avoid scratching dial

Figure 1.

Groove in which to place the hands

portion of the support disk 3) Washing agents

Suppcrt

Solvents like trichloroethylene and benzine act upon plastic parts, causing serious troubles such as melting, deformation and cracking. Be sure to use alcohol when washing the engineering plastic parts. After washing, air-dry or dry with a hair dryer set on gentle, keeping in mind that overly hot air may deform the parts.

Note: An auto cleaning machine hot air system may deform the parts as each manufacturer has a different heater temperature control system.

Washing Agents and Their Application · The washing agents shown in charts B and C may not be

easily obtained from your local source due to EPA regulations or other factors. Note: Trichlorotrifluoroethane will not be available after January 1, 1996 due to EPA regulations.

Chart D shows results of some brand name cleaning solu-

SMITH SUPPLY HOUSE WATCHMAKER'S TOOLS & MATERIALS

706 S. HILL ST., #580, LOS ANGELES, CA 90014 • PHONE: (213) 622-1687 FAX: (213) 488-0922

FLAT TEMPERED GLASS DATE MAGNIFIERS MINERAL GLASS

• Gold Background With Black Roman Numerals Sizes: 4.5 mm x 5.5 mm 5.5 mm x 7.0 mm

Fits Hamilton Ventura • Black Background With Gold Roman Numerals Sizes 17 .0 mm - 33.0 mm, 0.5 mm Increment

SALE PRICE - $5.00 EACH SALE PRICE - $4.00 (Pack of 5) SALE PRICE $8.00 EACH

VJS4• YOUR SUPPLIER OF SPARE PARTS FOR ALL BRANDS OF MECHANICAL AND QUARTZ WATCHES, CLOCKS AND ALARMS .

CALL TOLL FREE (800) 23-SMITH "'.:9-' OM~GA {]Jjj£i TIS~OT $ ~w ~. ~ ZE~TH

RAYVILLE RECORD FIE~UE BU~VA SUFIEN J. CER~INA 9ENICl>.Q ..... .;;·;.. ......

MONDAINE . l ""15So..v.r'O

I\ '@ ,.A\l',.IE·l..EUl!IA ..L 't',.~ O ~ Pul•>r • H- -"""'-~'-ro"" inc.bloc• .J.ucu-u:co __ cL~

CATTIN CITIZEN \!J ~ M Iii\ ROAMER. C'-"J . \II

1!!!5i!!1!!11 RICOH ORIENT SEIKO KIP LANCO 10'/lnO LO~ES MARVIN

B!f".0¥,, ... .__ , ..

HATTORI

MARCH 1 996 33

Chart A: Advantage Metals Conventional *Engineering

Plastic Plastic Shock Resistance good x good Chemical Resistance good x good Heat Resistance good x good Process ability x good good Insulation Resistance x good good Corrosion Resistance x good gobd Weight x good good Cost x good good *There are many kmd of engmeen ng pla t1c. Amon g the m ore commonly used are POM (poly acetal), PPS (polyphenylene sulfide), and PC (polycarbonate).

Chart B: Internal Parts

~ Trichloro- Benzine Alcohol Trichloro-

t ethylene trifluoro-p ethane* Plate No No Yes Yes Tc-.iin-whee! bridge No No Yes Yes Train wheels No No Yes Yes Washers & frames No No Yes Yes lnsulacors No No Yes Ye-s Reflectors No No No Yes

Chart C: External Parts

~ Trichloro- Benzine Alcohol Tr ichloro-

t ethylene trifluoro-p ethane* Casing No No No Yes Caseback No No No Yes Acrylic glass No No No Yes Case ring No No Yes Yes Dial holding ring No No Yes Yes Gaskels No No No Yes BllllOOS No No No Yes Watchband No No No Yes

* For external parts, warm water and gentle detergent can be used for washing. Chart D: Characteristic Sample Washing Power Drying Name of Solution Availability Manual Brush Ultrasonic R-17 (new solution) Yes J;,. • • • MICRO Yes " " " " L & R #566 No L & R #3 (Rinse) No L & R # l ll Yes • • • " X55 (Rin e) Yes • • • J;,.

RUBISOL Yes J;,. • • " F45 (Rin e) Yes J;,. • • "

PF80 (Rinse) Yes J;,. • • J;,.

Chart E: COS ERV

Integrated M ovement-Selling Price Caliber Letter/Series Selling Price

Identification V041 PQF $9.85

V500 PRR $7.1 0

V501 PRS $7 .25

V5 15 PMF $7.25

Y532 PPU $8.05

V533 PPX $8.60

V535 PQP $8.45

Y537 PQR $8.05

Y544 PRT $9.00

Y700 PTA, PTB $9.70

V701 PTD $10.25 V722 PTX, PTZ $ ] J .70

V729 PXB, PXC $11.70 V743 PXN $ 12.70

V782 PXT $ 11.70 V783 PXX $ 12.70

V789 PYA, PYC $11.70

V800 PNZ $10.65 V810 PPG $7.75 V811 PPH $8. 10 V827 PPT $8.20 V 828 PRF $12.40

V829 PRE $ 1 J .70

Effect on Parts Rinse Safety Overall Remarks Metal Plastic Effect Evaluation

• • • • • "* • J;,. • " * Rust appears on

metal parts

• • " "* " * Slrong pungent smell

• • • "* " * Very low tla h point

• • " " * " * Strong pungent smell

• "*' "*2 ){*3 " *' Solvent damage to plastic parts

* 2 Stain appears on metal parts

*3 Very flammable

• • J;,. * • J;,. * Stain appears on metal parts

• = good, A = possible. but not good, ){ = bad Note: R-17 agent at the moment only available m Japan from Seiko.


tions that have been tested by the Seiko factory and may be more easily obtained locally.

Concerning washing agents, Seiko believes because of current environmental concerns that it is very important for washing agents to not only have good washability and easy handling, but also to be gentle to the skin and not affect the environment.

Serviceable Versus Repairable As technology progresses, some of the movements have been

designed as an integral unit that can simply be replaced. In this case, often watchmakers will ask why the manufacturer changed to such a design, since they will not be able to repair it.

It is unrealistic to not recognize that the watch industry is undergoing constant change. What is necessary for us to do now is to make change work. Therefore, it is important to be absolutely clear that just because a movement is unrepairable does not mean that it cannot be serviced. Most of the movements within this category are available to the trade. Consequently, watchmakers can continue with their service business by simply rotating the movement or exchanging it. In these cases, the complete movement will be cheaper than the cost of the circuits or coil and the labor necessary to complete the repair.

In addition, the integrated movement not only provides a high quality movement at low cost, but also addresses the problem that skilled watchmakers are becoming increasingly unavailable. The following is a list of integrated movements that you can purchase from Coserv directly. (See Chart E.)

~EVV-PANASONIC.

-Watch Batteries Type Regular Special

Price Price

To order replacement integrated movements, from outside New Jersey contact COSERV at 1-800-722-4452, or from inside New Jersey at 1-800-334-0962. In order to expedite movement ordering, please provide COSERV with the eight-digit number which appears on the watch caseback.

Summary In recent years, research and development into engineering

plastic has moved powerfully forward. It is reported that plastics have already been developed that can be resistant to temperatures over 57(f F before deforming and can be used as electrical conductors. However. there are problems that need to be solved in order to utilize plastic in various applications, and not all metals can be replaced with plastic considering mass production capabilities, cost, and various other factors.

We expect, however, that the advent of engineering plastic will have a major impact on conventional technology and that it will receive wider and wider acceptance as materials engineering and processing technology make further progress.

There is no question that the use of engineering plastic will be a key element to successful watch industry product development, design, and servicing well into the next century. Accordingly, we find the industry in a transitional period. Because there is no turning back. it is important, whether we are oriented to sales or repair service, that we welcome this innovative new technology in a very positive way. ~

ovements ome wit Free Hands Set

Regular Pulsar pclOA 7.50 Pulsar pcllA 7.50 Pulsar pc33A 9.95 Pulsar VP33A 8.95

Special 6.50 6.50 7.95 7.50

317 .65 .51 Alternative for seiko 7N83A Q Pulsar VT83 11.95 10.50 319 .50 .40 321 .46 .40 343 .42 .35

Substitute For ETA 578.004, Same r1\. Size , Dial Feet , and Life Time. Y Ronda 751

Ronda 753 Ronda 762

8.95 9.50 7.50

7.95 8.50 6.50 362 .42 .35

364 .32 .24 371 .40 .30 377 .40 .35 379 .45 .39 391 .40 .35 395 .40 .35

Tear strip packaging.

sAT/8~ o\o ALL~ §SPECIAL~ """: Prices Good until6 <2\. April the 15th-~ ~ 1996 ~ ~A/~'CJ~

ETA 955.114 12.50 ETA 955.124 13.50 ETA 955.414 12.50 ETA 955.424 13.50 ETA 956.414 13.50 Miyota 2035 5.95 Miyota 6L02 11.50

11.50 12.50 11.50 12.50 11.95 4.50

10.50

~ iii] Mc~A 13714 Gamma Road suite 125 [: Dallas, TX. 75244-4408

Call: 1-800-536-7632 Or fax: 1-800-536-7631 MARCH 1996 35

REPAIRING

MECHANICAL

WATCHES & CLOCKS

A COMPLETE SERIES OF

BENCH PRACTICES

A HAIRSPRING TOOL FOR MAKING THE

BREGUET BENDS, PART XIII

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC © 1996 (All rights reserved by the author)


A simple handmade tool which can accurately and professionally form the overcoil in hairsprings is shown in Figure 110. It was first introduced by F. Haschka, an early-twentieth-century head watchmaker at Tiffany and executive officer of the Horological Society of New York.

The dimensions are those of the one I made and used extensively. The measurements given here were taken from that tool which was made from a scrapped screwdriver. The brass rod is 4.00 mm in thickness and each of its two pieces are 25.4 mm (1 inch) long. The shoulder posts C and G are 2.00 mm in diameter and 3.50 mm high. Holes are vertically drilled into each of these posts 0.75 mm in diameter to a depth of 5.00 mm. Also into the edge of the shoulders and as close to the center post for F, two similar vertical holes are drilled.

Figure 111 shows more details. Into the edgewise holes and one center hole are placed, "frictionwise" but permanently, the pins B, D, and F. The longest protruding pin should be that in the center and the two edgewise pins should be short enough so that when the top brass rod and its guiding center pin are inserted together, the side pins should be shortened and able to clear the shoulders.

The cross-sectional view makes it easier to understand. To use the tool, the hairspring is hung between pins B, D, and F at the position on the hairspring that you have selected to receive the first bend. It must rest on the shoulder H so that when the upper and lower pieces are united, the flat part of the hairspring is clamped between the two shoulders, C and H.

Figure 112 is a "bird's eye" view of the bending and leveling process. At (a) the hairspring is resting between B-D and the center pin E. at the point selected for the first bend. Pressing the two pieces together and twisting B in the clockwise direction will cause the first bend as shown in (b ). Then create the second, leveling bend, note (c) in which the hairspring is turned over so that the first bend points to the left and the pins B, D. and F are at the point in the hairspring which you have selected for the rise and height of the second level. Twisting B in the clockwise direction will create the second, leveling bend.

The second, leveling bend must be done cautiously and slowly to prevent overbending. Should that occur, reverse the process so that the twisting of the two-part tool will diminish the severity of the bend.

Such a tool can actually bend a hairspring (as I did) into a U-shaped curve so that an equal number of coils are expanding and contracting in opposite directions. In some chronometers, two helical springs

were used, one above the balance and the other under the balance. This prevented the balance from being pulled up with one pivot beating against its endstone and when the balance swung in the opposite direction, the lower endstone was subjected to the same abuse. With paired springs spiraling in opposite directions, the balance remains in one plane. A more or less modern example is in the Germanmade movements with hanging balances and helical springs that have a U-bend in their middle level. '@

~· , )

Figure 110.

a b E

F

( B

B D

Figure 112.

D

A simple handmade tool can accurately and

professionally form the overcoil in hairsprings.

Figure 111.

c d

G

A

MARCH 1996 37

A PRACTICAL

COURSE IN CLOCK

REPAIR

UNIT 1 METALLURGY

By John P. Kenyon, CMC


Metallurgy is the science of extracting metals from their ores, refining them, and preparing them for practical use. A clockmaker needs to be familiar with the basic metals and alloys used in the trade and with the methods utilized to modify their properties, in order to achieve results that will be advantageous. This article will concentrate on materials used in clockmaking and some of their behavioral properties, as related to their service potential. With this know ledge, one can intelligently select materials for a specific purpose and use them, while taking advantage of their alterable physical properties, and avoiding conditions that might be damaging to them. For convenience, the materials discussed are divided into two general categories: metals and alloys.

Definitions To help in understanding,

some definitions are necessary.

Alloy - A metallic substance resulting from the fusion, mixture, or combination of two or more metals.

By combining metals of specific proportions, the composition of the resulting metal (alloy) can be conditioned for a specific purpose. It can be formulated to increase or decrease its density, hardness, linear expansion, corrosion, and conductivity. For example, an alloy is usually harder than the metals that compose it and the melting point of an alloy is lower than that of its components.

Brittleness - The ability to break with a relatively smooth fracture.

Cast Iron - A generic name for a group of metals that are basically alloys of iron, carbon, and silicon.

Coefficient of expansion - A com-

parative measure of volume change with heat application.

Conductor - A medium that transmits energy, such as heat or electricity.

Contraction - The action of shrinking or becoming smaller.

Corrosion - Gradual deterioration, usually caused by a chemical action.

Density - The mass per unit of volume.

Ductile - Able to undergo a change of form without breaking.

Elastic - Able to return to original state after being stretched.

Element - A substance that cannot be separated by chemical means into substances different from itself.

Expansion - An increase in volume or spreading out.

Ferrous - A method used to classify metals, based on a relationship to iron. Compounds derived from iron are referred to as ferrous. All other metals are considered to be nonferrous. Ferrous metals used in clockmaking are iron and steel. Some nonferrous metals used are brass and bronze.

Fusible - Capable of being melted.

Galvanize - To coat metal to prevent corrosion.

Hardness - Resistance to indentation, deformation, or machining.

Linear - Extended or arranged in a line.

Luster - The quality of shining by reflecting light.

Magnetism - The property of attraction and repulsion of certain substances.

Malleable - Capable of being extended or shaped by hammering.

Metal - A substance in its pure state, characterized by ductility, conductivity, and luster.

Slag - The vitrified matter separated during the reduction of a metal from its ore.

Strength - The capability to resist force and wear.

Tenacious - The condition of being tough, stubborn. and adhesive.

Tensile strength - The maximum load per unit of original cross-section that a material is able to withstand.

Tool Steel - A high-carbon steel used for making tools.

Precious metals - A general term for the expensive metals that are used for coinage, jewelry, and finite industrial components. They are limited to gold, silver, and platinum. These metals are seldom used in clockmaking, but the clockmaker should have a knowledge of their characteristics.

Gold - An element having a yellow luster. It is soft, malleable. ductile, and relatively noncorrosive.

Silver - A pure white, very soft metal, a little harder than gold, having a brilliant luster. It is malleable, ductile. resistant to corrosives, and an excellent conductor.

Platinum - A gray-white metal, heavier than gold, that is ductile, malleable and resistant to corrosives.

Pig Iron - Iron ore obtained from the first smelting in a blast furnace.

Wrought Iron - A low-carbon steel, containing a considerable amount of slag.

Elements Some elements used rn

clockmaking are:

Chromium - A metallic element resembling iron, occurring chiefly in chrome iron ore. It is a very infusible. hard gray metal used to harden steel. It is used for stainless steel and chromium plating.

Copper - A metallic element, reddish in color, bright with a metallic luster, malleable, ductile, a good conductor of heat and electricity.

Iron - The most abundant of metals. Its most common ore is hematite, from which the metal is obtained by reduction with carbon. Pure iron is a relatively soft silver-white element. It is ductile, malleable, and is combined with carbon to make steel.

Manganese - A gray-white metal resembling iron, but harder and very brittle. It is used with iron, copper, and nickel in the production of alloys.

Mercury - A heavy silver-white liquid metal formerly used for pendulums. It is toxic and contact with it should be avoided.

Nickel - A hard malleable element of white color that is used in the manufacture of alloys.

Tin - A silver-white malleable element that is used in the manufacture of alloys. It does not corrode easily, so it is used to coat other metals.

Zinc - A blue-white metallic element that is combined with other metals in the production of alloys.

Alloys Some alloys used m clock

making are:

Bell-metal - An alloy of four parts copper and one part tin, sometimes containing small quantities of zinc, lead, iron, silver, bismuth, and antimony. It is used for metal laps and slips to obtain a high polish on steel.

Beryllium - A metal used in small concentrations with nickel and steel to produce nonmagnetic, noncorrosive balances, and temperature compensated springs.

Brass - A soft. yellow alloy composed of copper and zinc in various proportions. It is used for many clock parts, including plates and gears. An average composition for brass used in clockmaking is 65% copper and 35% zinc. A mix of 70% and 30% respectively, is considered to be soft brass. Antique clock plates were made of this mixture because of its workable properties. Gear wheels and most machined parts are made from a 60/40 ratio. which is stronger due to the added zinc. In some cases, lead and other metals are added to the alloy in small amounts to modify hardness, color and other properties. Strength and properties vary widely. Brass becomes hardened when rolled or hammered. Its strength and hardness are dependent upon alloying and/or the cold work process.

Bronze - An alloy of copper and tin that is generally modified with small amounts of zinc, lead, or other elements. It is a stronger and harder material than brass and sometimes used for bushings.

Continued on page 43.

MARCH 1 996 39

The Musical Clock, Musical and Automaton Clocks and Watches, by Arthur W.G. Ord-Hume. Hard cover, 7 1/2 x 10", 315 illustrations, 49 color plates, 99 diagrams. Published in the United States by AutaMusique Ltd., Summit, NJ 07901, 1995, $79.95.

This is a beautifully illustrated book containing much information on many famous and various types of musical timepieces including, of course, watches. Among the thirteen chapters are those on chiming clocks and their annotated music. Also, their classifications such as carillon, organ, and those using strings (instead of bells, gongs, or tubes); clocks which use bells, and/or dulcimer clocks; clocks with organ pipes; and some with automatons. Musical and automaton watches are covered in fifteen pages of one chapter.

The author, founder and long-time president of the Music Box Society of Great Britain and editor of its journal for a quarter of a century, Mr. Ord-Hume has also authored fourteen other books on mechanical


BOOK REVIEWS

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

music and horology. He also is the keeper of the Ord-Hume Library of Mechanical Music & Horology at Guilford.

Among the 315 illustrations are many attractive and highly complicated clocks with musical devices revealed in auxiliary photos.

Mr. Ord-Hume's chapter on "Chiming Clocks & Their Carillons" contains many methods of chiming: bells, gongs, tubes, and xylophone. Some bracket and skeleton clocks, and church carillons with their annotated music are included.

In the chapter on chiming clocks, I was surprised to see my name quoted several times along with parts of a copyrighted article which appeared in the July and August, 1980 issues of Chilton's Jewelers' Circular-Keystone, and also, with my permission, rn the NAWCC Bulletin of 1982. In that article, I had twenty-five annotated chime melodies which I had gathered and researched. While working on the article a friend, who happens to be a copyright attorney,

suggested that I do as map makers do in creating nonexisting towns and roads to confound would-be copiers when legally confronted. So, a twenty-sixth chime melody, which existed only in my future plans for a clock (which never materialized), was inserted. Evidently Mr. Ord-Hume must have liked it also as he included it in that chapter. For my own part, it still will be a mystery melody that with all the others will appear in a book from the A.W.I. Press. Since this book is very well done, I will accept this surprise "compliment" as it is.

In the chapter on "Chiming Clocks & Their Chimes," OrdHume annotates fifty-six musical melodies of which twenty-seven are those found in the tower of church clocks or in famous buildings.

In the following chapter, the author states that "chiming clocks are not the same as musical clocks." He contends that chiming clocks have certain restrictions since, "one octave of eight natural notes offers a scale of C and frankly, too small

a compass." While in a strict sense this is true, yet Beethoven's melody in his Ninth Symphony and its "Ode To Joy" uses only six different notes for the full melody. Mozart and others had beautiful melodies that children can play even on a tiny, cheap toy piano.

Also in that chapter are numerous clocks that had more than a full scale of bells that played extended melodies, some of which are pictured. A chart of musical clock types shows that these can be classified into four main categories: Organ, String, Glockenspiel, and Combwor k. These are then placed into thirty-one subdivisions. The rarest are those with carillons. Pocket watches, he states, use only carillon and combwork. Earlier watches, though, did use bells and one is illustrated in his book, Musical Boxes. Longcase clocks use all types but combwork. Photos of various types are found in this chapter which includes many bells and multiple hammers. Drawings are used to show the many types of bells, gongs,

tubes. and hammer linkages. One shows a large cabinet clock with twenty-eight bells and numerous hammers (for fractional notes). Many English clocks with music were made expressly for the Turkish market. Dutch tall clocks also had multiple bells. (One by Antoine Janzen of Amsterdam in my possess ion plays twelve tunes on twenty-two bells and thirty-three hammers.) Numerous table clocks. shown in color, are found in this chapter. German, French, and English musical clocks are also shown in this long chapter.

A chapter called "Organ Playing Clocks" includes clocks that are often of huge architectural size and might better be termed cabinetwork with clocks. Photos of their mechanisms show the bellow systems and pinned barrel arrangements. Here the author credits Frederick the Great "who also brought to Berlin some of the best Swiss clockmakers to set up a German industry." Photos of bellows, tubes, or pipes and barrel-tripping systems are displayed. Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach, Haydn, and the young Mozart are credited with special melodies for use in clocks. some of which are shown in color with separate views of their musical mechanisms. A token representation of the German Black Forest variety of clocks is here too.

String-playing clocks are classed as dulcimer types (string struck by a hammer rather than plucked as in harpsichords). One is shown with a C.P.E. Bach melody of fifty notes.

Disc-playing musical clocks brings us closer to the twentieth century. Their ages can also be determined by their recognizable melodies. A good number of these are shown with their musical devices in companion photos.

Musical picture clocks with animation are represented in a number of views. some labeled as "compound musically," containing bells, organ, etc. Many English clocks with animation and music were made expressly for the near and Far East market.

Musical animation in watches is shown in a fourteen-page chapter. Some are said to go back as far as 1720. Photographs of these together with their systems are included. Three watches with erotic animation are pictured. including that oft-seen one with an exhibitionist Mephistopheles observing the deflowering of Margaret by Faust.

In a following chapter is shown timepiece music by famous composers. Other chapters deal with "Mechanical Musical Considerations" which discuss materials and methods used. An eighty-two-page section

NAWCC School of lH[o1rology

Ofiferll.ng classes i.n t1radll.tll.01flal

watch & dock. makhllg

James 0. Michaels, Director Watch & Clock Repair Instructor

John A. Nagle, Assistant Director Clock Repair Instructor

Call or write for the 1996 Schedule: 514 Poplar Street, Columbia PA 17512

717.684.8261 FAX 717.684.0878

The NA WCC School of Horology is a private licensed school under the Pennsylvania Department of Education -

Division of Private Licensed Schools.

I Mlalmmn )(alptm•Dtt I I~ CoDstracc!on I jSUnpk. Open!Jous I -No .... mbd 1111........._ •All l' P. StabiJdJ "1\Dloauldt.bant-lrOI

or Fool ptdlll-4.

-tlDllaW dWlll..s0

-Mlplllj •Solid Stato ~ ..S.!HO<"Malk(Do "'1llt:r) Stora bcol DOC

.o.vcarw...nu..,, •ll' xu· xu· ~ 1xi11..,St.m.

"J!.illlJ Ropolrwl 'llill "*"11 •&AO Potlable 129 U.. •l O Mhlule btal-up ~pan..

MARCH 1 996 4 1

is devoted to "Makers of Musical & Automaton Clocks and Watches" with picture-worthy representative items.

A bibliography occupies four pages and a "Discography" of music in clocks. two pages, along with an eight-page detailed index.

In a letter to Antiquarian Horology. Winter 1992, Ord-Hume stated that he had completed the manuscript for the subject of this book. but had trouble finding a publisher in 1992 who would want to produce it. All things considered.the horological publisher and the U.S.A. Summit Publisher should do well. Aside from my own personal "surprise" mentioned earlier. this book is still highly recommended to every serious clockmaker and collector of clocks.

The Complete Guide To Watch Distribution And Service 199511996, The Official Guide of the Federation of The Swiss Watch Industry. Soft cover. 6x8 ", 183 pages, 2 illustrations, 2 color photos. Published by The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, ©1995. $25 plus $3 shipping.

This publication is available from the Watchmakers of Switzerland Information Center at 608 Fifth Ave .. New York. NY. This small book contains four sections. The first centers around the Swiss in-


dustry in the United States. followed by its history. "Timely Tips on Fine Watches," "Mechanical vs. Quartz Watches." and "Measurement of Time."

A second section consists of brand name listing of distributors and service facilities in the United States. The third section is a directory of material supply houses. A subheading includes batteries. dial refinishers, tools, equipment, watch attachments. and watch materials.

The fourth section contains eight categories. These are A Directory of Antique Watch and Clock Resources. Antique Watch Associations. Auction Houses. Watch and Clock Museums, Watchmaking Schools, Swiss Consulates, Trade Publications and Industry Associations.

The format of this directory contains no illustrative material to speak of. Two simplified drawings show a drawing of the mechanical movement and a schematic view of the quartz movement. The front cover shows a three-rotor quartz movement and a light view of a calendar dial. The rear cover. also in color, illustrates the exploded view of the I.W.C."s tourbillon wrist watch escapement.

In all it is a concise catalog of the Swiss ind us try and what and whom it services. The section on (Swiss)

horological history gives its beginning when, in 1541, Calvin forbid the wearing of jewelry, forcing these artisans to turn to making timepieces. By 1601 there were watchmaking guilds in Geneva. Later development was the invention by Abraham Louis Perelet of a rotor driven. self-winding pocket watch. most likely inspired by the English watchmaker Ralph Gout who previously made successful pedometers, used mainly on horseback.

By 1790, Geneva was exporting over 60.000 watches and by the mid-nineteenth century, it claims that Adrian Philippe rnvented the pendant winding watch. although Thomas Prest working in Arnold· s London shop made one twenty years earlier. By the twentieth century, they state that Ingold and Leschot had developed machinery that could produce watches although no mention is made of the automatic machines in America producing watches by Waltham and Pitkin. Various Swiss technological advances are mentioned capped with the Patek Philippe Cal.89 in 1989. Various "firsts" are also listed in this historical section. Some interesting inclusions are the largest watch, heaviest watch. most expensive (diamond-laden excluded) water resistant, and finally quartz technology (no

mention of Hamilton's Pulsar). Mention is made of the United States history and its effect on the Swiss industry.

The section on "Timely Tips-What You Need To Know" contains current statistics as well as an explanation of how modern watches work and a definition of trade terminology.

The largest section of 168 pages is devoted to the alphabetical listing of brand names. The final section with its eight subheadings listed earlier contains the names and locations of watch and clock museums but fails to include the museum of the American Watchmakers Institute. in existence for almost twenty years in Cincinnati, now in its expanded facilities in nearby Harrison. Ohio. Despite some inevitable omissions. this reference could serve as a handy guide for anyone in the watch and jewelry trade.

~

Continued from page 39.

Bronze becomes hardened when rolled or hammered. Its strength and properties vary widely and are dependent upon alloying and/or the cold work process.

Elinvar - An alloy of nickel, titanium. chromium. aluminum, manganese. silicon, carbon, and iron. It is used for hairsprings and chronometer balances because of its low coefficient of expansion and constant elasticity under temperature changes. It is nonmagnetic and corrosion resistant.

German-silver (Nickel-silver) - An alloy of copper, nickel. and zinc that is strong, hard, and corrosion resistant.

Invar - An alloy made up with 36% nickel and 54% cobalt. that has a thermal expansion of nearly zero. It has similar properties to elinvar and is also used for balance wheels. It is sometimes used in the manufacture of temperature-compensated pendulum rods.

Nivarex - A special alloy used for clock balance springs. It consists of nickel. iron, beryllium, molybdenum, tungsten, and chromium. It is nonmagnetic. rust-proof. and has a low rate of expansion and contraction.

Steel - An alloy produced by refining molten pigiron.

In the process, iron is purified of most of its natural impurities and a certain amount of carbon is added. Steel is classified on the basis of carbon content. which is directly related to hardness. As a rule of thumb, the better the grade of the clock, the harder the steel that is used for arbors. pinions, and other parts. Increasing the carbon up to a certain percent increases the strength, but beyond this point, the strength decreases. Other elements are added to steel alloys to increase or decrease brittleness, ductility, hardness. strength, and tenacity. Soft steel contains less than 0.25% carbon, medium steel contains 0.25-0.6% carbon and hard steel contains 0.6-1. 7% carbon.

The physical properties of the steel can be adjusted by techniques known as hardening. tempering. and annealing. Next time. I will cover these treatments.

r-----ROLii-----, WATCH MATERIAL

FOR GREAT SERVICE ON ALL CROWNS, SAPPHIRE & PLASTIC

CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC.

"WE ONLY SELL GENUINE ROLEX PAllTS"

CALL: S&G INDUSTRIES TOLL FREE: 1-800-942-0047

or 1-800-407-7912 FAX: 1-800-423-4256

"WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL"

I~~: I WE GIVE QUICK AND EFFICIENT

SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY!

\_ _ - - - - ~D!.Y~A~~~ - - - - _ _)

WATCH & CLOCK INFORMATION, PLEASE! Wm. H. Samelius

The writings of Wm. H. Samelius, dating back to 1921 when he was Dean of Elgin Watchmakers College and from his monthly column in the American Horologist & Jeweler, have been compiled in this 408-page book. His authoritative and technical answers have aided thousands interested in the art and science of horology. Watch & Clock Information, Please! was compiled and edited by Orville R. Hagans with the assistance of Josephine F. Hagans and Harold & Charlill Hansen.

$30 • 00 postpaid

To order, send your $30.00 payment along with your name, address and phone number to AWI Central, 701 Enterprise Dr., Harrison, OH 45030. Phone (513) 367-9800, Fax (513) 367-1414.

MARCH 1 996 43

FROM THE

WORKSHOP

"From the Workshop" is a new feature in Horological Times. Readers are invited to send in one or more of their favorite methods of solving a problem in the workshop.

A WI has not tested any of the methods published. They are published for the reader's information and experimentation.

Send your suggestions to: "From the Workshop, " Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH45030.

Winding Pinion for Discontinued Caravelle 5BW

Someone was requesting a winding pinion for a Caravelle 5BW (discontinued). I needed the same thing and discovered, quite by accident, that if you paired a clutch wheel and winding pinion from an AS 1012 it would work.

Fred Craley Newark, OH

Buffing Aid in Jewelry Making and Repair Materials/Tools Required: chopsticks, bamboo skewers, and/or round wooden toothpicks

To buff round jump rings which are tarnished or were fabricated from unfinished wire, try· stringing them on the tapered end of bamboo chopsticks obtained (or maybe swiped) from your favorite Chinese restaurant. After polishing, the rings can be cleaned with soap and a washout brush or toothbrush and dried before removing them from the stick.

Bamboo skewers have a smaller diameter suitable for tiny rings and most have a gradual taper on one end. Note that bamboo does not absorb much water and will not stay wet when dried on a towel. These can be purchased in most any supermarket and the number in the package is large, so you can use one for each ring if you prefer.


Round toothpicks of the type which are tapered on both ends can also be used, but are made of hardwood and will not be as waterproof as bamboo.

Any of these wood sticks can be tapered or otherwise modified by holding them against the coarse wheel of a bench grinder. If the stick is rotated between the fingers at a small angle against the wheel, a tapered end will result. Use light pressure so as not to bum the wood. My grinder turns 3450 RPM and the coarse wheel is a 46 grit, 6 inches in diameter, which works well. Sometimes I do use the fine wheel (60 grit) for a better finish, but there is a chance of burning the wood.

Stabilize That Tall Clock With a Narrow Base

Max Levine Snoquamie, WA

Tall clocks with narrow bases can be easily upset. When repairing this type of clock, it may be stabilized as shown in the sketch which is the top view of a 30-hour OG. The door has been opened and trapped in a vise. Leather strips of soft jaws should be used to prevent damage to the finish.

D

David J. Carlson Indianapolis, IN

D

AWi MATERIAL

SEARCH

NETWORK

EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in conjunction with the AWI Movement Bank. If you can supply any of the items listed here, please send details to the AWI Material Search Network. Do not send the items to AWi. Members requesting these items will be advised of their availability, and will contact you directly.

2B-3 Hamilton, 12/0, Calibre 770 Cannon Pinion, 3.28 mm high (or complete movement), #319403

2B-4 Schatz Royal Mariner 1 IJ Platform Escapement

2B-5 Seth Thomas Pallet Fork, 3 heavy plates, 2-5/8" diameter, 7J single roller

Material Search Network Needs as of February 12, 1996 2B-6 Welby Miniature 400-Day Oval Glass Dome, 4"x8"x8" high

2B-1 Howard 21J, 16 size, Model LC, Series 10, 4th Wheel and Pinion, Swartchild #16156, Factory #360

2B-7 Gruen N510SS Barrel Arbor, #49

2B-2 Pocket Watch Mainspring, Tongue End, Dennison, lx5x18-l/2

If you can supply any of these items, please contact AWI Material Search Network, AWI Central, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030.

American

Watchmakers-Clockmakers

Institute

The Academy of Watchmaking

A New 45-Week Watchmakers Training Program Scheduled to Begin July 15, 1996

Students will learn the skills necessary to be successful in the art of modern & antique watchmaking. The full-time instructor for the program is James E. Lubic, a Swiss-trained watchmaker with several years of teaching experience.

To answer the critical shortage of skilled watchmakers in the United States, several full tuition scholarships will be available for the 45-week training session.

To receive a course brochure and application please contact: American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute

701 Enterprise Dr. • Harrison, OH 45030 • Phone (513) 367-9800

MARCH 1 996 45

A. NEW REQUESTS Waltham Display George Kuckenbaker, Harpers Ferry. WV, recently received the Waltham display shown below (see Figure 1) as a gift. The circular Lucite contains model 77L 681, and 6/0-D, 21-jewel movements all marked 5 adj., made in U.S.A. There are gold hands on all of the movements.

Any information about this display, such

Figure 1.


BULLETIN

BOARD

as its purpose and approximate date will be appreciated.

Aurora Clock by Kirsch Hamilton Walter Celli, N anuet, NY, seeks any information anyone can supply about the Aurora clock by Kirsch Hamilton in Massachusetts. Mr. Celli has tried to contact them by phone with no success. A check of the current Thomas Register fails to provide an entry

for Kirsch Hamilton although A WI files lists them without an address.

Trinad Rock Klox Donn Kummer. Tangent, OR. has a Trinad Rock Clock with loose hands. He can get the back off but can ·t get the dial out of the bezel. It doesn't seem to pry off. The glass crystal, which he is afraid of chipping, may be epoxyed. Mr. Kummer hopes to hear from anyone with information about this clock.

Vigor Electric Soldering Machine, Model SM-800 William Carson, Groton. MA, recently purchased a Vigor Heavy Duty electric soldering machine . He is seeking a user's manual and spare parts list.

Waterbury #100 Hall Clock Richard Porter. Minneapolis, MN, has frequently helped with "BB" request. Now he seeks information about a Waterbury #100 pin wheel escapement hall

clock movement which he has for restoration. Specifically, Mr. Porter seeks the following information: 1) Suspension Spring:

Material, length, width , thickness. and is it single or double leaf?

2) Cable: Size and material?

3) Date of manufacture?

4) If possible, a source for, or picture of the sweep second hand that fits the protruding tapered end of the escape wheel arbor.

Pictures or technical information from someone familiar with this clock will be appreciated.

B. RESPONSES IBM Radio Time Longcase Electrically Wound Clock To supplement the information J. M. Huckabee was able to provide Valentine Rodriguez. Kuala Beliat, Brunei, William E . (Bill) Ellison. and The Horolovar Company, St. Clair Shores, ML provided a copy of

a Model 37 IBM Master Clock. Bill Ellison also writes: "The following information may also be helpful to Mr. Rodriguez. The Model 37 IBM Master Clock uses a cam mechanism to determine if it has received the proper signal from WWV/WWVH before making any corrections. In the manual, this cam mechanism is shown schematically in the left center area of Figure 1. page 4 as the ·Gate.' More specific information is shown in the second part of the service manual entitled 'Type 37 Radio Supervised Master Time Control.' I have inserted a piece of blue paper to identify the beginning of this section. Unfortunately, current pattern of tones broadcast by WWV I WWVH does not match the pattern shown in this section on page 2. As a consequence. the ·Gate' cam shown on page 3 will not function as intended. As a further consequence, the clock concludes that it has received a false radio signal and will not make any correction function. I have enclosed a separate copy of the current broadcast pattern for WWV and WWVH for comparison with the pattern shown rn the manual."

Paul Mared (Maret) Watches For several months we have published a request for Paul Mared Watches. Clifford Ellsworth. Call

Jewelers. Phoenix, Arizona writes: "Possibly. the name on the dial has been smeared or distorted. Our watch brand name is Paul Maret. and if I can help Mr. D. Souza, I shall be pleased to do so." Mr. D'Souza's request came to A WI recorded on the " Hotline" phone and was heard to be "Mared" instead of "Maret." -Editor.

Pertoni (Perton) Lathe This time the spelling error was from a member. Mike Helfrick. Pearland. TX. and Vincent Ancona, Des Moines. IA. both called our attention to the fact that the name of the lathe was "Perton." Vincent Ancona reinforced this with a copy of an ad for the Perton Lathe which appeared in the December 1946 issue of AH&J Maga zine.

Removing Scratches from Glass Watch Crystals For several months we have asked for methods of removing scratches from glass watch crystals with no apparent success. That is until we received a call from Gerhard Hungeling of Beaverton, Oregon who said he uses lapidary equipment, the same that he uses for cutting and polishing gems.

C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED Zenith Wilcometre Manual E. Kiska, Grosse Pointe Farms. ML is seeking an

instructional manual for the operation of a Zenith Wilcometre watch rate recorder. A WI will be happy to copy yours for Mr. Ki ska and re turn yours to you.

Distributor or Service Center for Peltier Watches George Stuscavage. Martinez. CA, seeks the name and location of a distributor or service center in the United States for "Peltier" brand Swiss watches .

Pieper Clock Company Raymond A. Meffert. Arlington. MN. is seeking the address and telephone number of the firm that markets Pieper Clocks.

Daily Multiple Alarm Settings Uriah Fields. Drexel Hill , PA , is seeking a watch that can be set once. for four or more alarm settings in a day,

so that it will sound at four or more different times during the day. We would like to hear from anyone who has knowledge of such a watch.

Elma Amplifix Balance Amplitude Meter W. E. Robertshaw. Dunedin, New Zealand. recently acquired an Elma balance amplitude meter made in Singen. Germany. It could easily be 20-30 years old. He is seeking a copy of the service manual or an in struction book for this instrument.

Operation Manual for "Perton" Lathe Cl au de Reed, North Adams. ML has a lathe marked "Perton" on the right end of the lathe bed. He is seeking an operator's manual and any other information you might provide for this lathe which is pictured below (see Figure 2).

'i'

Figure 2. Watchmakers lathe marked "Perton" on the end of the lathe bed.

MARCH 1 996 4 7

A Hero To Watch New York City para

medic. Adam Brynes, (pictured at right) risked an 800-foot drop when he jumped across an open shaft to rescue four injured tourists trapped in an elevator in The Empire State Building on August 12. In recognition of his bravery, NYC-EMS (Manhattan) Borough Commander, Pedro Carrasquillo, recently presented Brynes with a Wittnauer watch. For the past year, Wittnauer International, through their Wittnauer Winners Program, has dedicated resources to finding and honoring local and national heroes who make outstanding contributions to their communities for the betterment of others.


INDUSTRY

NEWS

For information on the Wittnauer Winners Program, contact Wittnauer Watch Company, 145 Huguenot Street, New Rochelle, NY 10802. Phone: 1-800-431-1863.

MagicWand™ From L&R

L&R is pleased to introduce the Magic Wand™, a revolutionary new Jewelry Cleaning and Polishing System. The Magic Wand™ is a polishing cloth on a stick. On one side of the wand, a pink, treated cloth has been applied for cleaning. The other side of the wand is a gray cotton flannel cloth for polishing and buffing. The wand works in the same manner as the polishing cloth you now carry.

The wand is available in two styles, individually packaged or in a two-wand blister card. The blister card contains two uniquely shaped wands-tapered and wide. The tapered wand is designed for cleaning and polishing small areas such as the inside of a ring, while the wide wand is ideal for large surfaces, such as a bracelet or a watchband. The individual wand is only available in the tapered style. Additionally, the individual wand may be custom imprinted in gross lots and makes an ideal customer "giveaway" item.

For more information contact: L&R Manufacturing Company, 577 Elm Street, Kearny, NJ 07032-3604. Phone: (201) 991-

-----~ -· ·-

5330. Fax: (201) 991-5870.

UE '96 Sets Atlantic City Launch Dates

Jewelry designers, manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers will experience a world of new products and ideas at the start of the industry's prime buying season when the International Jewelers Exposition (IJE) makes its debut in the Atlantic City Convention Center, May 18-20, 1996.

Modern Jeweler magazine will participate as a sponsor and marketing partner in the IJE "96 event. They will share resources with IJE, Inc., owners of the International Jewelers Exposition.

"IJE '96 is the result of an extensive planning effort lasting almost two years," said Communications Director, John Fox. "The show is based on dialogue and input involving a cross-section of jewelry industry constituents, manufacturers. diamond dealers, and retailers. After researching attendance patterns at current jewelry trade shows and measuring levels of interest in attending a new major jewelry trade show in Atlantic City in May 1996, we discovered that a significant num-

ber of retailers would attend a show designed to appeal to their desire for a cost-effective, exciting destination where they could mix business with pleasure."

The IJE team has more than 100 years of combined experience in the hospitality industry, complemented by full-time jewelry industry professionals and an advisory board who have contributed a wealth of knowledge about the concerns and needs of the industry.

Atlantic City's strategic location near major northeastern United States population centers has, historically, been a key element in the success of trade shows held in Atlantic City. "Nearly one-third of the United States' population lives within 300 miles of Atlantic City, or an easy day's drive to the show. With affordable first-class hotels, an outstanding convention center, countless dining and entertainment options and plentiful parking. all in a compact, convenient environment, the Atlantic City location should eliminate much of the hustle and bustle associated with large metropolitan trade shows," said Fox.

Tim Murphy, Modern Jeweler publisher. spoke about the anticipated success of IJE '96. "We know from our research that jewelers do need and want an alternative to the big city shows.

A survey of 350 jewelers, conducted by Exhibit Surveys Inc. of Red Bank. New Jersey, indicated an

attendance of 5,000 - 9,000 buyers, provided that there were at least 500 exhibit booths at IJE '96. Earlier research conducted by Best Trade Shows Management Co. Inc. indicated that 400 exhibiting companies would participate, which would meet or exceed that requirement."

Filled Diamonds I.D. Chart Available From GIA

The Gemological Institute of America has produced an "Identification of Filled Diamonds" chart with fifty-six color photographs illustrating the identifying characteristics of fracture-filled diamondssuch as flash effects, flow structure, trapped bubbles, incomplete filling at the surface, cloudy filled areas and surface residue, as well as potentially misleading features in untreated stones. The laminated 22 1/2" x 17" chart, suitable for mounting or framing. is available for $14.95 plus $4.50 shipping and handling. (CA and NY residents must add appropriate sales tax).

"The published reports on this treatment are quite comprehensive," said GIA Bookstore Manager Judith Shechter-Lankford, "but we recognized the need to place the key information in a visual format that could be readily referenced by the jeweler/gemologist when actually examining diamonds under magnification. This chart is an invaluable visual guide to the key features of filled diamonds and the methodology used in their detection."

"A Visual Guide to the Identification of Filled Diamonds" is available exclusively through the GIA Bookstore. To order. call toll-free: (800) 421-7250. ext. 282, or (310) 829-2991, ext. 282. Fax: (310) 449-1161. Or write the GIA Bookstore, Dept. PR54L, P.O. Box 2052, Santa Monica. CA 90406-2052.

The New Ladies Models By Longines

Longines. a member of the SMH Group (Swiss Corporation for Microelectronics and Watchmaking Industries Ltd.) , has launched two new watch designs for women. These watches were created by a woman, for women, bearing in mind the delicacy and sensitivity of feminine needs.

The "hearts" models comprise jewelry watches in double-pleated round or oval cases that are harmo-

niously set in exclusive bracelets with heart motifs.

The "chalice" line of round or oval watches is highlighted by a bracelet with chalice-shaped linksrecalling an ancient symbol of womanhood.

The new watches of the Ladies collection by Longines are gold-plated. The "hearts" models are also available in goldplated/steel. They are fitted on leather straps in green, crimson, or midnight blue, or integrated into a metallic bracelet. The dials come in several versions: white, champagne, mother-ofpearl , or (for the goldplated/steel models) iridescent gray, with index points or Roman numerals. The watches. equipped with a quartz movement and sapphire glass. are water-resistant to thirty meters.

Contact: Longines Watch Co .. 35 East 21st Street , New York , NY 10010. ~

MARCH 1 996 49

ALABAMA Abernathy, John M.-Saraland, AL

Adair. Leslie-Deatsville, AL Hendricks, John-Auburn. AL

Sponsor: William C. RogersLanette, AL

ARIZONA Andree. Skip-Tucson, AZ Gustafson, Walter-Peoria, AZ

Pfeffer, Curt-Clarksdale, AZ Speer, Paul-Chandler, AZ

Traphagen, Tianna-Phoenix. AZ

CALIFORNIA Cardwell, Hap-Palos Verdes

Peninsula. CA

Creps, R.-KorbeL CA Dau, Vinh Tu-Concord, CA*

Hoang, Quang Ly-Fairfield, CA*

Karkazin. Ara-Fresno. CA Lange, Gordon A.-Rancho Palos

Verdes, CA Maffei, Louis-Knightsen, CA

McCann, Martin P.-Los Angeles, CA Mitchell, Louis-San Dimas, CA

Moody, James-Atascadero, CA Nguyen, Paul P.-Costa Mesa, CA

Preet, Dara M. S.-San Jose, CA Yost, Dave-Sacramento, CA

COLORADO Chilton, Amanda-Arvada, CO Collins, C.E.-Colorado Springs, CO Hathcock, J.R.-Idaho Springs, CO Lieberman, Marcus-Lakewood, CO Morrison, Barbara Ann-

Edwards, CO

Plank, Chris-Colorado Springs, CO*


MEMBERS

Scott, Robert M.-Durango, CO*

DELAWARE Oliet, Eric J.-Greenville, DE

FLORIDA Hunt, Roger-Ocala, FL* Montenegro, DomingoM.-Hialeah,FL *

Pearson. Roy-Tampa, FL Taylor, Howard G.-Homestead. FL

ILLINOIS Lermer, Peter J.-Hoffman Estates, IL

Maneke, Irvin-Lawrenceville, IL

Miller. Michael E.-Carbondale. IL Stone, Craig-Quincy, IL

INDIANA Riggs, LeRoy-Evansville. IN

Ross, Steve-Mishowaka, IN

Stephenson, Jerry-New Castle, IN

IOWA Carlson, Jim-Boone, IA

KENTUCKY Wilder, Spencer-Mt. Sterling. KY

MARYLAND VanLunen, Mark-Davidsonville, MD

MASSACHUSETTS DeSimone, Henry P.-Reading, MA

Sponsor: John LelievreNatick, MA

Iokheles, Alexander-Boston, MA Levesque, Marcil-Springfield, MA*

MICHIGAN Lonsberry. Greg-Imlay City. MI

Maas. Gerald !.-Jackson, MI Mokhles, Wael K.-Dearborn, MI*

Putze, Kirk-Birmingham, MI

MINNESOTA Knott, Wayne A-Woodbury, MN

Purdy. Mark T.-Excelsior, MN

Sponsor: Jeff L. PomeroyMinneapolis, MN

Schalekamp, PaulD.-Bloomington, MN

Sponsor: Jeff L. PomeroyMinneapolis, MN

Sparks, Hugh-Minneapolis, MN*

MISSISSIPPI Conners, Terrance E.-Starkville, MS

MISSOURI Brune, Herbert H.-Washington, MO

Sponsor: Robert Porter

Florissant, MO Carpenter, T.M.-St. Louis, MO*

Graham, Vernon E.-Festus. MO*

Lamkins, Victor-Kansas City, MO

Shelton, Stacy Marie-St. Louis, MO

NEBRASKA Boston, Neil-Omaha, NE

NEW HAMPSHIRE McClure, Larry-Peterboro, NH

Rogers, John C.-Mason, NH

NEW JERSEY Robbiani, Michael-Marlboro, NJ

NEW YORK Bork, Kevin J.-N. Tonawanda, NY Butler, James-Kingston, NY Corio, Timothy J.-Bloomfield, NY

Foti, Roger J.-Wading River. NY

Meliani, Jeffrey-New York, NY

NORTH CAROLINA Canter. James-Elkin, NC

Sponsor: Dennis J. Warner

Springfield, MO Chatlani, Paul V.-Pineville, NC

McMurry, Steve-Shelby, NC Nilsen, Newell H.-Dunn, NC Sykes, Phil-Raleigh, NC

OHIO Gainey, Michael-Columbus, OH

Schen:field, James L.-Waynesville, OH

OKLAHOMA Box, Richard L.-Lawton, OK

Groves, Loretta Gail-Weatherford, OK Morris, Michael G.-Tulsa, OK

OREGON Meisner, John W.-Cottage Grove, OR

PENNSYLVANIA Hohenwarter, Ronald P.-Lancaster, PA*

SOUTH CAROLINA Thigpen, Michael R.-Columbia, SC

SOUTH DAKOTA Zafar, Peter-Rapid City, SD

TENNESSEE Atkins, Bowden H.-Knoxville, TN*

Neuhoff, Sid-Nashville, TN

TEXAS Cherry, Thomas E.-Fruitvale, TX

Croslin, W. B.-Dallas, TX Davidson, G. L.-Houston, TX

Jones, Tony D.-Kilgore, TX

Kuhn, Michael J.-Richardson, TX Martinez, Jorge L.-Bryan, TX

Mills, John W.-San Angelo, TX Moore, Carl-Channelview, TX

Salyer, Jim-Missouri City, TX Slama, Ron-Aubrey, TX

Smith, Thomas J.-Houston, TX* Sneed, Terry-Winters. TX

Sykes, John H. J.-San Antonio, TX Thomas, Dona-Longview, TX

UTAH Dupont, Richard-Ogden, UT

VIRGINIA Burch, GlennD.-VirginiaBeach, VA Dinh, T. Hai- Hampton, VA

Dopler, John R.-Alexandria, VA

Dudley, John H.-Midlothian, VA*

Elridge, Alan-Arlington, VA

Fasanella, Edwin L.-Poquoson, VA Fox, Neil-Bracey, VA

Godfrey, Millard H.-Bon Air, VA

Gregory, Anthony P.-Reston, VA

Groves, Lester A-Reston, VA Grubbs, John W.-Richmond, VA

Hannahs, Greg-Rockville, VA

Harris, Jerry R.-Charlottesville, VA Heard, John H.-Danville, VA Holloway, James D.-Hopewell, VA

Jones, Keith V.-Richmond, VA

Kidd, Clarence M.-Lynchburg, VA

Kroll, Chuck-Roanoke, VA LaPan, Richard E.-Charlottesville, VA

Sponsor: Roland Johnson

Charlottesville, VA Leverton, Tracy-Arlington, VA

Livingston, D. R.-HopewelL VA

Martin, Terry-Richmond, VA Ternes, Clifford L.-Alexandria, VA Traylor, Robert W.-Lynchburg, VA

Younger, Maurice B.-Waynesboro, VA

WASHINGTON Bendowsky, Ben-Malaga, WA

Burgess, Lee-Kirkland, WA Cross, Richard L.-Kennewick, WA

Garland. Harold. J.-Tumwater. WA

Graziano, Michael-Seattle, WA

Jaussaud, Leon A-Kirkland, WA

Jones, Richard C.-Issaquah. WA

Manson, Robert B.-BothelL WA McElroy. Eric-Benton City, WA

Sponsor: James F. GeigerRichland, WA

Noorani. Karim-Bellevue. WA

WEST VIRGINIA Mills, Ritchie W.-Weirton, WV

Sponsor: Joseph JakimPittsburgh, PA

Siders, Harry L.-Gallipolis Ferry, WV

WISCONSIN Fuller, Scott-Wauwatosa. WI

Johnson, Donald Wm-McFarland, Wl

CANADA Mills, Robert C.-Thorold. Ontario

Pedler, J. A-Toronto, Ontario

VIRGIN ISLANDS Dorbeck, Luther-St. Thomas, Virgin

Islands

FOREIGN Barnes, Barry K.-Vienna, Austria Giovanzana, Luciano-Milano, Italy

Hanford, Brian-London. England

Hay, James-South Dunedin, New Zealand

Hernandez. Daniel Peralta-San Jose, Costa Rica

Madrazo, German M.-Queretaro,

Mexico

Sponsor: Ben F. ConnerHouston, TX

Peker, Jacobo-Buenos Aires.

Argentina Visser, Jack-Wellington, South

Africa

Wille, Quak Kwang Hue-Singapore

* AWI welcomes back these individuals who have chosen

to reinstate their membership.

MARCH 1 996 51

REGULATIONS & RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.75 per word, $.80 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $30.00 per column inch, 2-1/4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $5.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. May issue closes for copy on April 1st).

HOROLOGICAL TIMES 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030

Phone (513) 367-9800 Fax (513) 367-1414

TRADESMAN DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, Seattle, WA 9810 I; (206) 623-2452.

TIMING MACHINES -- NEW AND REFURBISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. Call (814) 692-2285.

REPIVOTING - balance staffs, pinions, arbors for wrist and pocket watches. Do not replace original parts, let us repivot to manufacturer standards. Juliusz Dabrowski, J.D. Watchworks Co., 210 Post St., Suite 506, San Francisco, CA 94108; Phone: (415) 397-0310, Fax: (415) 397-0601.

MURPHY'S CRYSTAL SERVICE

FAST -- QUALITY WORK • 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. • Complete crystal fitting service

for new and old wrist and pocket watches.

CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST FAX or PHONE (209) 531-2333

1736 JOEL WAY CERES, CA 95307


CLASSIFIED

, ADVERTISING

CRYSTAL FITTING Let us take care of all your crystal needs 95% can be done for $9-$12 Fast The rest on estimate approval Turnaround

Schohl Crystal Works 208 Barber St. • Spring Lake, Ml 49456

Phone 1-800-470-4217 • Fax (616) 842-2198

HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR. Expert, experienced service on all Model 500 and 505 Electric watches. -- Want to buy Hamilton Electric parts. Also unusual Hamilton watches, Hamilton advertising and memorabilia. -- Rene Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA 94976. (415) 924-6534, Fax (415) 924-8423.

PLATFORM ESCAPEMENTS I have over 40 years experience in restoring and making parts for platform escapements, staffs, cylinders, pinions, escape wheels, pallets, hairsprings, jewels, repivoting and others. New and reconditioned platforms fitted to your movement. John Barrs, 3924 S.W. Holden St., Seattle, WA 98136; (206) 935-0596.

THE MORTICIAN -- NO COMEBACKS Ro lex Certified Master Watchmaker and Atmos Clock Service (factory recommended for over 50 years). Watch wheel repivoting, quartz conversions. Servicing all makes, antiques, high grade, etc. 2-year warranty. J. Small, CMW & Associates; (713) 561-5147.

CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pinions. Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile producing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High Speed Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Send for Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper Tysoe, Warwi~kshire, CV35 OTR, England; Telephone 0295-680454, Fax 0295-688176.

ARE YOU SPENDING TOO MUCH FOR CRYSTALS?? We will make any flat mineral or heavy plastic crystal. One-day turnaround. Call or write for price list. D & H Crystal Co., 708-D Westchester Dr., High Point, NC 27262; phone/fax (910) 889-0148.

MECHANICAL, QUARTZ, ANTIQUE WATCHES AND MUSIC BOX RESTORATIONS: European watchmakers with over 25 years experience. Will repairand restore all types of watches and music boxes. Quality and guaranteed service. Free estimate. Send SASE for price list. M.J. Service, Inc. (formerly M.J. Silbert & Co.), 4938 West Irving Park Road, Suite 4, Chicago, IL 60641. Call (312) 777-3775, Fax (312) 794-8837.

RESTORATION & PARTS MANUFACTURING FOR ALL

TYPES OF WATCHES & CLOCKS

We restore all types of watches including tuning fork, electronic, quartz, mechanical, antique, high grade, etc. All types of clock restoration and custom watch, clock parts manufacturing including gear cutting, balance staffs all types, stems (regular and oversize), repivoting, etc. Over 35 years experience in watch, clock restoration and parts manufacturing. J.S. Park, CMW, CMEW, member AWi & NAWCC. Satisfaction guaranteed. WATCHES UNLIMITED, 222 Century Plaza Mall, 7500 Crestwood Blvd., Birmingham, AL 3521 O: Phone (205} 595-2022. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 10-9; Sun. 1-6.

CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING

Fast service -- Write for free Brochure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) 986-7698.

ACCUTRON REPAIR

Specializing in 214 & 218 Movements

• Quick turnaround time

• Guaranteed to be accurate for 1 year

• Using original parts

• Fully insured by Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co.

Little Swiss Watch Shop 3529 Chamblee Tucker Road

Atlanta, GA 30341 1-800-418-2345

Information: (770) 458-5805

~J"#~ Watch7s'";;i~e Inc.

AUTHORIZED FACTORY SERVICE CENTER

IWC • PORSCHE DESIGN • BLANCPAIN

1-800-275-4687

, ALVIN KRUTOLOW FOR

ROLEX SERVICE Master Watchmaker, 47 years experience. Awarded technical certificate from Rolex in 1977. Service includes case & bracelet refinishing & waterproofing of case. All watch parts are g9fluine Rolex. We specialize in the repair of high-grade watches & clocks. Not affiliated with Rolex Watches, Inc. USA. Ask

\.for Alvin or Marcus, (203) 792-4539. ..

ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE Overhauled with a

three-year (3) warranty on all labor MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC

1326 Stanford Street Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502

Established in 1982 & AWi Trained I also overhaul 400-day clocks

Please Call (310) 828-6707 http://www.webcom.com/-z4murray/

,-----------, DIAL REFINISHING

BEFORE

t! I · lll II.._.. ' 2 · ~ • -· • ~ ; ·. 4. ;_ .~~ : ~

AFTER

Quartz Conversions Diamond Dial Conversions

Emblem & Name Personalization

Write for Brochures

INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. 58 W. SUGARTREE

P.O. BOX 970 I WILMINGTON, OH 45177

L ___ ~1~ 382-45a:__ ___ _J

CLASSIFIED

ADVERTISING

Certlfted Master Watchmake JautlwJ. Ron

8wlss Trahled - WOSTBP REPAIR AND USTORATION

From Antique Verge Fusee to Modem Quartz Case Repair

SPECIALIZING IN CHRONOGRAPHS

TM Services (Time Master)

1290 Front St., Suite 125, Binghamton, NY 13901 For more info telephone 607-775-3302

CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, material and tools. Custom made to order or repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog $3.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, Atwater, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268 .

CHELSEA SHIP'S CLOCKS REPAIRED. 20 years experience with Chelsea Clock Co. Harmon Hunt, 29 Pond Rd., Island Falls, Maine 04747; (207) 463-2864.

POCKET WATCH CASE REP AIR -- Bezels, hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995.

CHRONOMETER REPAIR & RESTORATION BY CRAFI'MEMBER OF THE BRITISH HOROLOGICAL INSTITUTE. All work to high standards. I am also looking to buy old chronometers, parts, boxes, etc., watch chalk marked "block silverine". Phil Howard, 4220 Virginia Beach Blvd., Virginia Beach, VA 23452; (804) 481-7633, Fax (804) 481-1784.

CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, rebushing. Aircraft clocks. ROY H. NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, N31552 Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho 83869-9544. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330.

ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE We are Factory Authorized Service for:

• VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R

We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience.

JACK PHILLIPS ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE

757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901

For Information Call (415) 453-9266

CRYSTAL SERVICE Over 1,000,000 In Stock

All Your Watch Crystal Needs Cutting - Fitting - Complete Service

SINCE 1921

• 20% OFF

Expires May 30, 1996

• Any shape flat • Pocket watch • Fancy • Black trim • Roman numerals • Rock • Hard-to-fit • Original Rolex

Omega, Seiko, Accutron & more crystals in stock

More than 2 jobs High Quality FREE Shipping 24-Hour Turnaround

Pacific ln-2 Sta Watch Crystal Co. 210 Post St. #1123, San Francisco, CA 94108 Phone (415) 362-7288 Fax (415) 781-4389

ARTICLES FOR SALE

HIGH QUALITY CLOCK & WATCHMAKERS TOOLS. Depthing tools, milling spindles, wheel & pinion cutters, etc. Illustrated catalogue$ I 0, J. Malcolm Wild, 12 Norton Green Close, Sheffield S8 8BP, England. U.S. Contact: M.M. Ambrosino, Fax (718) 358-7750.

Zantech Quartz Analyzer, Model CA900A, almost new, sells for $1000 new, make offer. (803) 856-0280 Mon-Fri, 10-4.

EQUIPMENT: VibrografB-200 Watch Timing Machine, $695. Bestfit 1984 microfiche system with viewer, $195. Renotest 2 Quartz Timer, $495 . IO different LATHES: $250 and up. SEND SASE for our EQUIPMENT AND HAND TOOL LIST. WATCHES ETC., 5934 NW 39th St., Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824.

Send $3.00 for our new clock supply catalog!

Timesavers Box 12700

Scottsdale, AZ 85267 602-483-3711

- Rugged - Industrial Strength -

Working Man's Watchband This leather watchband will make your

watch virtually indestructible.

~=~ PUCK·;, u~~~~:t PritGL Prol•clor Wolchbon~ Customer.~

~ Fora Free Brochure, call:

~ •• ..,.... . 800/677-0371 19025 Onc1daS1reet• Denver, CO 80224

MARCH 1 996 53

ARTICLES FOR SALE

USEDWATCHMOVEMENTS.H.HERB &SON, 908 RIV A RIDGE DR., GREAT FALLS, VA 22066; Phone (703) 549-8045, Fax (703) 759-5837.

Watchmakers tools, equipment, material, and supplies, mostly used. Sold by free list, available from Dashto, Tom Mister, 983 Providence Square Shop Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; Phone/Fax (804) 495-2471.

WATCH CLEANER, Portescap VCIOl, $1100 or offer. 4-9 pm CST, (414) 873-1568.

HAMILTONMILITARYMATERIAL.Manyparts available for 992B, 4992B, M23, M22 deck watch, M21 marine chronometer, brass hardware for boxes. Robert Ravel Co., Box 32, Devon, PA 19333. Phone (610) 644-4272.

A complete selection of spare parts for the Golden Hour Clock

The Golden Hour Clock Co. 77 45 East Redfield Road #500

Scottsdale, AZ. 85260 602-483-3711

CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL

Save time, money, and work recovering bellows. Easier than replacing. For information, send business-size SASE to:

JANDi GOGGIN Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175

WATCH BATTERIES Rayovac - 30¢ Maxell - 35¢

Send SASE for price list Nestor Watch Repair Center

2222 Coronado Ave. #35 San Diego, CA 92154-2037

Phone & Fax (619) 423-2488

CASIO WATCH PARTS No Minimum Order Required

Kaben Enterprises 3529 Chamblee Tucker Road

Atlanta, GA 30341 Official Casio Distributor

ORDERS (800) 418-2345 INFORMATION (770) 458-5805


CLASSIFIED

ADVERTISING

TAIG PRECISION MICRO-LATHE Compare! Basic lathe with 3-jaw chuck and drilling tailstock, only $229! Not a toy, but a quality precision tool. See evaluation in Watch & Clock Review, 4/94. Lots of accessories available, including milling attachment. I 0% discount to A WI members. Authorized Dealer: Willis Lynes, 1345 Torrance, Bullhead City, AZ 86426; (520) 768-9616.

USED EQUIPMENT: Vibrograf and L&R timing machines from $695; engraving machines from $500; wide variety ofused watchmakers' and jewelers' tools. Sheely Wholesale Distributors, Call 800-222-2540.

OVAL DOMES, MORBIERS & EUROPEAN CLOCKS For Sale, Also Parts & Cases

THEO BURGER 3335 Birch St., Palo Alto, CA 94306

Phone (415) 858-3636 Fax (415) 858-3669

WATCHMAKERS LATHES BOUGHT & SOLD. JOEL LEVINE, ATLANTA, GA. (770) 923-5522.

MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed lowest prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guarantee. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. HALL CLOCK SHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte, NC 28205.

COMPLETE WATCH REPAIR EQUIPMENT. Bench, testers, timers, tools, crystals, movements, lathe, parts catalogs, microfiche, etc. Best offer. Sold as I unit only. (209) 478-7690.

FULL SERVICE WATCH MATERIAL DISTRIB UTOR in Hamilton's backyard. Sheely Wholesale Distributors, Call 800-222-2540.

BUSINESS FOR SALE

Owner of highest volume trade shop in Northern California is retiring June 1996. Excellent reputation. Business established for 25 years. Great retail clientele. Specializes in both watch and clock repair. Excellent opportunity for a skilled craftsman. Sale includes all accounts, complete inventory of tools, equipment (cleaning machines, timers, lathes, polishing equipment, ultrasonic tanks & more), and most complete inventory of old and new parts outside a supply house. All buyer needs is himself. Great recreational possibilities within an hour's drive (Pacific coast, wine country, Bay area). Mild weather. Owner will agree not to open competing business. Serious inquiries only please! Call (707) 527-8464, M-F, 9 am - 5 pm Pacific time.

WATCH-CLOCK-SALES-SERVICE: This location 18 years, gross 200K+, expandable, everything included, would like to retire! S. Central Texas: Phone evenings 7-9 PM central time (210) 434-1630 or Fax (210) 525-0576 anytime. Must be a good technician. Owner carry part.

WATCH - CLOCK - JEWELRY SHOP Great opportunity in beautiful

Sedona, Arizona 250 sq. ft. - Low Rent Total Price $13,000

Tuesday - Saturday 10-6 (520) 282-5414

SCHOOLS

City College of San Francisco Watch Repair Training since 1938. In order to speak with the Instructor and at the same time register for the class: Voice Mail (415) 731-0621. Open enrollment throughout the semester. 106 Bartlett St., Room 214, San Francisco, CA 94110. When writing for information: CCSF Watch Repair Instructor, 2425 Yorba St., San Francisco, CA 94116.

JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377

Phone(718)424-2929

Quality Instruction Since 1945

WATCHMAKING (17months)

WATCH REPAIR (9 and 13 months)

JEWELRY DESIGN & REPAIR

Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation

HELP WANTED

Top-notch clockmaker wanted for well-established shop in San Francisco Bay area. Clockmaking school graduate preferred for full time position. Antique and new clocks, experience with complicated movements, use of lathe and tools, including bushing tool, a must. Salary and benefits negotiable. Pleasant working conditions in family-owned business. Send resume to: Scott Hampton, 3401 Mt. Diablo Blvd., Lafayette, CA 94549; (510) 284-4720.

CLASSIFIED

ADVERTISING

~ RO LEX

Rolex Watch U.S.A. in Dallas is seeking Watch Technicians for the following positions:

WATCHMAKER, QUALITY CONTROLLER and ESTIMATOR.

Excellent Benefit Package. Salary commensurate with experience.

Please contact: Mary Lou Rhodes, ROLEX WATCH SERVICE CORP., Rolex Building, 2651 N. Harwood, Dallas, TX 75201

PH.: 214-871-0500, FAX 214-871-2767

SITUATIONS WANTED

FULL SERVICE WATCH & CLOCKMAKER seeking employment in Phoenix, Arizona area. 25 years experience in stone setting, watch repair, clock repair, and goldsmithing. Mechanically adept and computer literate. Excellent reputation for quality work. Resume provided on request. Reply to: Box SW396, c/o Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Dr., Harrison, OH 45030.

WANTED TO BUY

WANTED: Paying high prices for chronograph and high grade watches, movements, dials, cases, & parts. Dean Sarnelle, 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401, phone & fax (540) 885-6064.

ANYTHING ILLINOIS Want to buy Illinois wristwatches, dials, movements and cases (complete or parts) in any condition for avid private collector. Please call 800-421-1968, x5520, Fax 714-725-9787 or mail to Fred Friedberg, c/o TAMS, P.O. Box 2068, Tustin, CA 92681-2068.

CRYSTALS WANTED: Paying $2.50 each for unused asymmetric crystals with the following GS numbers: CMFlOOO, CMFI050, CMF700, CMF740, CMF875, CMY335. (Only these specific crystals--no others!) Rene Rondeau, P.O. Box 391, Corte Madera, CA 94976; (415) 924-6534, Fax (415) 924-8423.

RETIRING, RETIRED OR OTHERWISE Buying watchmakers' large or small

accumulations of tools, equipment, etc. Will travel east of the Mississippi

Ken Wald horn (81 O) 399-3067

We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also. buy filings. gold fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment return mail ! Ship insured/registered mail to : AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 2940 I. Established 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073.

WANTED: Will pay up to $500 for Rolex Easy Opener. Also need Rolex crystal press and Rolex movements, cases, dials, etc. We also buy watchmakers tools and equipment, pocket watches, and wristwatches. Single items or complete collections. WATCHES ETC .. 5934 NW 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824.

TOP BUYERS OF WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, MATERIALS, EQUIPMENT, ETC. We travel for prompt settlement. Retirements and estate specialists. Please call Tom Mister at (804) 495-2471 or (804) 249-4237 (leave message).

WANTED GOLD FILLED SCRAP

SILVER, GOLD, PLATINUM

WORN OR BROKEN

WRIST & POCKET WATCH CASES •WATCH BANDS (GF & GP)• CHAINS•

LOCKETS• BRACELETS • EYEGLASSES

NO ASSAY or REFINING COST

NO MINIMUM AMOUNT

DAILY QUOTES- FAST PAYMENT

GF SPECIAL TIES, LTD.

P.O. Box 17216 - Milwaukee. WI 53217

1·800-351-6926 ·Irv Bard

Mon - Fri 1 o - 4 Central Time

- 30 Years of ExptJrlence -

WANTED • Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars

Piguet, Vacheron, Lecoultre, IWC, Etc. Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Filled & Gold (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin. Gruen, Etc.)

• Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service Sets, Etc.

• Scrap--Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver. Platinum, Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed)

CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-426-2344

Ron Fried. President

SPECIALTY METALS REFINING COMPANY 10 Bay Street Westport, CT 06880

Members: Better Business Bureau Jewelers Board of Trade

Our 131 st Consecutive Ad

Watches Wanted

We desperately need our retail customers' fine watches by:

Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron & Constantin, Movado,

Gubelin, etc.

We are paying top prices for any high quality, unusual or complicated

Wrist or Pocket Watches

When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch Call Us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625

In Texas 1-214-902-0664

Always prompt immediate payment!

Wingate's Quality Watches P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760

MARCH 1 996 55

Saving your Horological Times? Announcing

NEW & IMPROVED HT BINDERS! We have the answer to protecting and organizing your magazines. Our leatherlook binder holds 12 issues (one volume). End the frustration of searching for back issues or trying to remember technical details that you just know you've read. If you are interested in organization, send a check or money order in the amount of $12.00 (postpaid) to: HT Binders, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, Ohio 45030. (Please allow three weeks for handling and delivery.)

' If you have any ideas to share -\,

with the Horological Times staff, send your letters to:

AWI Central 701 Enterprise Drive


1996INDEX A complete index for 1996 issues of Horlogical Times will appear in the January, 1997 issue.

HAVING TECHNICAL PROBLEMS?

CALLTHEAWI HOTLINE

(513) 367-7799

KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES

The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple method of locating the problem in a quartz analog movement. The only tool required is a meter.

Material and instructions for learning this test are supplied by the A WIELM Trust as part of their educational work. There is no charge to any group wishing to learn this test. There are great benefits to learning this in a group setting. However. for individuals who may not be able to participate in a group, it is available to them also.

For more information call or write the A WI office for an information sheet and application form.


ADVERTISING

INDEX

Borel ..... .... .... .... ... ... .. .... .. .. .. ..... .. .... 5

Butterworth Clocks .... .. .......... .. ...... 4

Cas-Ker ...... .. ..... ... inside back cover

Esslinger ... ......... .. inside front cover

ETA SA .......... ... ... .. .. ....... ...... ..... .... 7

Eveready Watch Batteries .............. 9

Grobet-Vigor ...... ... ............... ....... 27

S. LaRose. Inc ....... .... ... .... .... ... ... . 23

Livesay's, Inc ......... .......... .... ..... ... 31

McCaw. William S ... .. ... .. ...... .. ... .. . 3

NAWCC .... .... .. .. .... ..... ......... .... .. .. . 41

Newall Mfg .. .... ...... ...... .. ... .... ..... .. 41

S&G Industries ...... ...... ....... .. ..... .. 43

SMEA .. ....... .. ....... .. .. .... ... .... ... ... ... 35

Smith Supply House .... .......... ... .. . 33

Twin City Supply ........................ . 13

United Tool & Material Co ........ . 19

Witschi Electronics ....... ............... 15

Zantech ... .... ... .. ...... .... ... ... .. ... ... .... 11

Assortment CK-98 includes one each of these 12 numbers :

32M29NA1 35E09NN1 35ME9NA1 35MPONF1 35MR8NF1 35M68NA1 35M82NA1 30M98NA1 35R34NA1 8M35AONNG1 8M35AONNG2 8M40AONNG1

EWI save $21.00 o!'e~

Open Stock Price.

Asst CK-98, 12 Genuine Seiko Crowns $24.00

C•LL TODAY 1•800•487•0408 FAX 1•800•487•5848

1996 Bench Courses To register for these courses, please send your Bench Course registration and fee to: AWi Central, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be

selected by the earliest postmarks. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or Mastercard number, card expiration date, signature, and phone number. Registrations cannot be taken by phone. All registration fee checks and charges are processed immediately upon receipt. FAX (513) 367-1414 • PHONE (513) 367-9800

DATE CLASS LOCATION INSTRUCTOR FEE

APRIL 1-2 ET A New Products Harrison, OH Remy Waelchli $100.00 13-14 Mechanical Chronographs Oakland, CA Mark Heist $100.00 13-14 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Boston, MA Robert Bishop $100.00 14 Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs Seattle, WA Jeff Broughton $ 50.00 27-28 Hairspring Vibrating Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX Joseph Cerullo $100.00

MAY 5 Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs Oklahoma City, OK Jeff Broughton $ 50.00 10-13 Lathe Course (Phase 111) Charlotte, NC Roy Hovey $280.00 17-19 Advanced Clock Repair Seattle, WA Ron Iverson $150.00 18-19 Introduction to American Pocket Watches Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX Alice Carpenter $100.00

JUNE 7-10 Cross Slide Operations Minneapolis, MN Roy Hovey $240.00 8-9 Mechanical Chronographs Seattle, WA Mark Heist $100.00

JULY 1996 23-24 Introduction to American Pocket Watches Chicago, IL Alice Carpenter $100.00 27-28 400-Day Clock Repair Oakland, CA Ron Iverson $100.00

AUGUST 1996 3-4 Striking Clocks Dallas, TX Buddy Carpenter $100.00 24-25 Introduction to American Pocket Watches Cleveland, OH Alice Carpenter $100.00

SEPTEMBER 1996 7-8 14-15 20-22 27-29

DATE

APRIL 8-20 29-May 3

MAY 20-24

JUNE 3-7 10-14 23-27

Hairspring Vibrating Greensboro, NC Joseph Cerullo $100.00 Striking Clocks Oakland, CA Buddy Carpenter $100.00 Advanced Clock Repair Austin, TX Ron Iverson $150.00 Mechanical Watch Repair Cleveland, OH James Lubic $150.00

1996 Project Extend Classes AWi's continuing Education Program offers one-week and two-week classes in various phases of watch & clock repair techniques. Work alongside recognized leaders in the field of horology. See how they handle the everyday situations we all encounter.

CLASS INSTRUCTOR FEE

12-Day Lathe Course Roy Hovey $780.00 Basic Electronics & Meter Reading Gerald Jaeger $250.00

Hairspring Vibrating & Timing Adjustments James Lubic $250.00

Basic Jewelry & Watch Case Repair Marshall Richmond $250.00 Accutron Repair Henry Frystak $262.00 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Robert Bishop $250.00

All Project Extend classes are held in AWi's new training rooms in Harrison, Ohio. Call or write for information and details for the classes that interest youl

AWi Central, 701 Enterprise Dr., Harrison, OH 45030 • Phone (513) 367-9800 Fax (513) 367-1414

FREE - American Watchmakers – Clockmakers Institute

Documents

Transcript of FREE - American Watchmakers – Clockmakers Institute