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UNIVERSITY OF NEW YORK IN PRAGUE
European Business Administration
Analysis of L'Oreal's International Marketing
Strategy
by
Soline Danger
2015/2016 Mentor: William Pattison
2
I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my mentor William Pattison, for his
guidance, invaluable advices and suggestions. Thanks to his inspirational support in
the class of International marketing strategies, I had all the help that I needed to
create my thesis.
3
Table of contents
I. The history of L’Oreal……………………………………………………..8
a. The beginning with Eugène Schueller………………………………...8
b. The pursuit of the dream……………………………………………..10
c. The expansion………………………………………………..………12
d. The challenge of nowadays…………………………………………..15
II. The external environment………………………………………….……..17
a. The market……………………………………………………………17
b. The different types of company……………………………………...18
i. The “players” ………………………….……………………..18
ii. The luxury group……………………..………………………21
iii. The diversified companies………………...…………………22
c. Porter’s five forces…………………………………………………...24
i. The intensity of the competition……………………………...25
ii. The threat of the new entrance…………………………….…25
iii. The pressure from the substitutes………………………….…26
iv. The power of the clients……………………………………...26
v. The power of suppliers…………………………………….…27
d. The different aspects…………………………………………………27
i. The legal aspect…………………………………………....…27
ii. The economic aspect…………………………………………28
iii. The cultural aspect…………………………………………...28
iv. The technological aspect……………………………………..28
v. The environmental aspect…………………………………….29
III. The internal environment……………………………...…………………30
a. The diversity of products………………………………………..……30
i. The consumer products………………………………………30
ii. The professional products……………………………………31
iii. The luxury products……………………………………….…32
iv. The active cosmetics…………………………………………33
v. The body shop………………………………………………..33
b. The culture……………………………………………………………34
i. According to the CEO………………………..………………34
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ii. The acquisitions………………………………………………34
iii. The social responsibility…………………………………...…35
c. The human resources…………………………………………………36
d. The financial resources……………………………………………….37
e. The risks……………………………………………………………...38
i. The communication……………………………..……………38
ii. The intellectual and industrial propriety…………..…………39
iii. The financial risk……………………………………………..40
IV. The marketing strategy………………………………………………...…41
a. Portfolio of brands……………………………………………………41
b. The performances in each country…………………………………...42
c. The organization……………………………………………………...44
d. The different geographic areas……………………………………….45
i. The mature market…………………………………………...45
ii. The emerging countries………………………………………46
iii. The new borders……………………………………………...50
iv. The 6th
continent……………………………………………...51
e. The different steps of the strategy……………………………………51
f. The universalization………………………………………………….52
V. The impact of the cosmetics brand……………………………………….54
a. The wants of consumers……………………………………………...54
b. The classification of the population……………………………….…55
c. The definition of the beauty……………………………………….…56
d. The universalization of the beauty…………………………...………59
e. The environmental consequences………………………………….…60
f. The future full of opportunities………………………………………62
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Abstract
The topic of the thesis is the analysis of the international marketing strategy of a
traditional beauty brand: “L’Oreal”.
The purpose of this paper is the analysis of an international marketing strategy
through an example of company. L’Oreal is the leader on the market and it is
interesting to discover the inside of the success. The tools and the organization
required in a developed group are interesting to learn for a future professional
experience. Indeed, the marketing is linked to any other field of the company. So, the
analysis regroups also the financial side or social resources, for example.
Firstly I will start with researches in order to be acquainted with the company.
Secondly I will focus on the history and the environment of the market to understand
the strategy and its impacts. Furthermore, I will interview a professional from the
marketing field in France. It will permit me to have more details about the strategy.
Finally, the survey will be the last work I have done, because it will bring me to
another side of the group. What are the impacts of the marketing strategy on the
consumers?
The thesis is concluded by the opportunities of the “beauty products” industry. It
shows the possibilities of the future for the company, which builds on new
technologies, the niche of consumers and the new developing countries.
6
In France, everybody knows L’Oreal with its slogan “Parce que je le vaux
bien!” Today, it is one the most famous brand in the world. However, hundred years
ago, it was a Parisian start-up, which has consequently changed thanks to its creator.
So, what is making L’Oreal a successful company?
In a few words, there are two sides in the company. The simplest side is composed of
its vision, values and communication. Indeed, L’Oreal has a strong strategy, to
develop its expansion and strength. But the brand has also a complex side, in
grouping all the different parts to make it works.
L’Oreal defines its mission as beauty for everyone. They want to engage themselves
to conserve the beauties of the planet. They believe this is a universal concept,
because they offer quality products in the whole world. For the company, beauty is a
language to express in order to define a personality. They also trust the science side,
by increasing frequently their researches to innovate in order to match with the needs
and wants of the clients.
The strategy of the brand aims at having a durable and stable growth. Thus, L’Oreal
has a world presence where they incorporated fundamental laws. Firstly, the products
have a high quality. Secondly, the social implications are the same in each division of
the group. Thirdly, the production has to minimize the toxic waste, to protect the
environment. And finally, each brand of L’Oreal needs to be a part of the foundation
for HIV or cancers for examples.
L’Oreal is an international organization, with 6 different poles: North America, West
Europe, Latin America, Africa/Middle East, East Europe, and Asia/Pacific.
Because of the growth of globalization, many companies want to adopt international
strategies. Only a few know a great success like L’Oreal. The brand distinguishes
itself thanks to its communication and innovation. It also took the right opportunities,
7
with the developing countries, for example. They want to maintain the brand image
including beauty and comfort.
In 2014, L’Oreal had a turnover of 22.531 billions euros, with an increase of 3.7%.
This growth can be seen in every geographic area where the brand is located. Thus,
the company is the first global cosmetic group, which is present in over than 130
different countries.
1 Financial report. (2014). L’Oreal. Retrieved, 2014, from www.loreal.fr/.
8
I. The history of L’Oreal
a. The beginning with Eugène Schueller
The chemist Eugène Schueller created L’Oreal. Thanks to his entrepreneurial spirit,
the adventure started with one of the first hair dyes he invented. That is why, the
main objectives of the brand are still research and innovation for beauty. Eugène
Schueller graduated from Ecole Nationale Supérieure de Chimie of Paris in 1904.
After his engineering school, he had a new idea by creating his first hair dye with the
name L’Oreal. His creation was a real innovation at the time because it provided a
range of different colors. The company would later become L’Oreal, in 1909. His
determination and skill permitted him to sell his hair dye to Parisian hair stylists. He
also opened a hair coloring school in Paris to demonstrate his new ideas.
Finally, the war was over. So, the women worked and were more concerned about
themselves and their appearances. Indeed, hairstyles became fashionables. Thus, the
company appeared as a great success, even in Europe, United States, Canada, UK and
Brazil, in total: 17 countries. He believed his growth was based on research and
novelty.
In 1928, he started to manage the company Monsavon, it was the first move of
diversification for L’Oreal. He modernized, improved the quality and created an
advertising campaign of the brand. Later, the production site of Monsavon would
become the one of L’Oreal.
In 1931, competitors produced large containers with some risk of oxidization. In
contrary, L’Oreal innovated with the creation of individual doses. It was the best
solution for comfort and safety: targeting hair stylists and customers. The same year,
the company focused itself on promotional events and advertising campaign. For
9
Eugène Schueller, there were two types of campaign depending on what you expected
to reach. On one hand there was “publicité d’attaque” to create an interest. On the
other hand there was “publicité de rendement” to increase the sales. The first idea was
to create a giant billboard on a Parisian building. Then, he used radio to sing its
commercial ad rather than speak. In order to attract more women to care products,
L’Oreal started a monthly magazine. “Votre beauté” was about women’s health and
beauty in order to develop a fresh approach.
Moreover, the company sold a real shampoo without soap named “Dopal”, still
known as “Dop” today. Eugène Schueller started a big campaign for hygiene. He
reminded to parents the importance of getting clean, that’s why he targeted children
through his ads. He was a man of trends, with Coco Chanel, he innovated the
practices of hair salon and came with a new lotion to create natural curls. Thanks to
all this modernization, the brand had the ability to reach new consumers.
In 1936, the introduction of the first paid holidays in the country allowed the company
to sell its new suntan lotion.
During the World War II, because of the strict rationing, cosmetics were used to boost
the moral of women. Even with the war, the company continued to grow. By the end
of this period, they were several chemists and distribution researchers inside L’Oreal
in UK, Argentina and Algeria. At the same time, the company hired François Dalle
and Charles Zviak from Monsavon. Those employees will play a key role in the
company.
In the 50’s, L’Oreal worked with Brigitte Bardot and Marilyn Monroe, as two blond
idols. This strategy had a huge impact: “the consumer boom”.
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Furthermore, the R&D group developed itself, and they worked on many innovative
products, like the coloring shampoo. The skin care products also interested the brand.
That is why they started to work with Vichy to finally acquiring it in 1980.
In 1953, Eugène Schueller received an Oscar in advertising, and then he died in 1957.
He decided to devise his business to his daughter Liliane Bettencourt and the
handover to François Dalle with who he worked for Monsavon. Thus, François Dalle
became the CEO of L’Oreal at only 39 years old.
b. The pursuit of the dream
François Dalle was contently thinking about the future of the group. As a visionary,
the only factor of progress for him was to acquire new brands in order to increase the
position on the markets and distribution channels. He also focused on the main force:
Research and Development (R&D), in the interest of the company to reach new
consumers, internationals as nationals; with a beauty more accessible.
The 60’s marked the cultural and commercial revolution. Music and fashion were
trendy for teenagers. To respond to this demand, boutiques and chain stores opened.
The company grew up its investment in R&D and we counted 300 researchers at the
time. To go on the approach of skin scare, the brand started to work on cosmetic and
bacteriological facilities. With the increase of sales of hair-product, L’Oreal decided
to sell Monsavon. Thus, the company could concentrate on its main business.
Simultaneously, L’Oreal bought Cadoricin, it is a hair-hygiene brand, Jacques Fath
perfumes then Lancôme, Laboratoires d’Anglas, André Courrèges and Garnier.
Thanks to these acquisitions, the group gained some parts of the market share in high-
quality skin-care, make-up, perfume and hair-product. Today in many of those
11
markets, the brand is the leader. With those resources, L’Oreal had the opportunity to
create several successful products.
15 years after the World War II, the firm was also interested to implement itself in the
Japanese market. The first approach concluded with a new partnership with the brand
Kabaysashi Kose. The group opened an office in Tokyo and then this new market will
bring a lot to the knowledge of the company. Indeed, consumer’s sociology,
competitors, distribution channels, Japanese esthetics, beauty conception and the
particularity of ethnic’s skins are some of those points L’Oreal will learn. However, at
this time, the first results were less interesting than those in America or Europe.
In the 70’s, the population was focused on health and fitness. That’s why the group
decided to invest in research with Nestlé. It also established the International
Dermatological Research Centre, in order to develop the knowledge on skin aging
process. In the continuation of the researches, L’Oreal builds a new company,
Plénitude, to offer the best innovations and technologies also against the effects of
aging.
The group continued its strategy of collaboration, by obtaining the Ralph Lauren
license for fragrances. It improved its position in the Luxury Products and fragrance
businesses. The group decided to change its structure with new operational divisions.
Then, it started to export the brand in the world: New Zealand, Australia, Japan and
Hong Kong. The internalization of L’Oreal was helped by the alliance with Nestlé. At
the same time, the group was still acquiring new markets as Biotherm, Germey Ricils,
Jeanne Piaubert, Roja and diversifying itself through complementary fields as
magazines. They also decided to use a new distribution network such as mail-order
catalogues, for example: Les 3 Suisses. Thus, the group created a catalogue of beauty
products named Club of Beauty Creators.
12
The 80’s were good for L’Oreal. Indeed, François Dalle became the vice-president in
the administrative council of Nestlé, he won the award of the man and manager of the
year in chemicals and cosmetics field. A little bit after, he stopped working as the
CEO of the group. With the management of François Dalle, L’Oreal had opened
international fields in perfumes and beauty, cosmetic actives and public products. He
industrialized the brand from artisanal to Taylorism. He also turned the administration
to the new technologies and introduced L’Oreal to the stock market in 1963. It
allowed the stakeholders to (issue bonds and shares if they needed money) earn
money if they needed it. It also permitted the group to grow. But, this entrance
obliged a strict management and development of the finance.
This is Charles Zviak who took his place as a CEO. Therefore, he had the same age as
François Dalle so he was a man of transition because he could not stay more than 5
years as CEO. Thus, to succeed to Charles Zviak the choice was made on Lindsay
Owen-Jones, the manager of the brand in North America. During this time, the brand
decided to change the organization. Indeed, the Perfumes and Beauty division was
divided into 3 others: Lancôme and Piaubert, perfumes and active cosmetics, in 5
different locations. Because of the big increase in the group, the finance control
needed to be centralized. This is how L’Oreal Finances was created.
c. The expansion
Then, in 1988, Lindsay Owen-Jones became the CEO of the company. The last
acquisition for the 80’s was the Laboratoires Roche Posay, which is specialized in
skin-care. However, in order to maintain the group in a main area of interest, L’Oreal
decided to sell some components, for example personal hygiene.
13
The decade after, the market of cosmetics and the competition increased. Thanks to
the contract with Nestlé, the brand had an advantage, but it was still vulnerable in the
Western market. Thus, the new CEO had as objective to make L’Oreal a big
international company. She build a new organization, indeed she integrated a
worldwide team to adapt itself to each consumer. She also started to cross the brands
of the group and the divisions as for Lancôme Niosome. The innovation, the new
technologies were adapted to reach mass market. Therefore, the synergies allowed the
company to grow its profit. Moreover, even if US market represents 1/32 of the world
cosmetic market, the US dollar was weak. That’s why L’Oreal decided to target the
Japan and the Soviet Union. Thanks to a joint venture with the Russian, the brand was
one of the first to open a shop in this market. At this time, the organization stayed
stable to facilitate the 5 divisions to integrate many worldwide markets. It was a
decentralized group excluding R&D and management control fields.
In 1989, a new trend started for the protection of the environment. Thus, the
consumers put an important pressure on the group to delete some components and
stop the animals testing. The group was also fighting its main competitors
Proctor&Gamble and Unilever to keep its domination. For those reasons, L’Oreal
became environmentally friendly and increased its advertising budget. Then, the
company changed its products to make them more accessible.
One of the other moves to solidify its market position is the purchase of Maybelline
and two others drug companies. Maybelline allowed L’Oreal to have a great turnover
outside USA because the brand image of Maybelline relates to a modern and dynamic
woman. In order to integrate the US market, the firm introduced a new division of
products through Garnier, for example. These acquisitions represented the key
2 Collin, B., & Delplancke, J. (2015). L'Oréal: La beauté de la stratégie. Paris:
Dunod.
14
element in the strategy of the group. Indeed, it permits to increase the knowledge and
the presence while buying local companies. So the group can reinforce its identity on
the market, and become more popular worldwide. As it always did, the group used the
hair-care products to enter in a new market. However, to develop its products in the
Japanese market, it used the growth of the country’s economy. Moreover, in order to
promote its brand as Studio Line, Elsève or Free Style, the firm utilized the European
woman more than Japanese.
In the 90’s, the group centralized its activities and research centers to create Nihon
L’Oreal, it sold top of the line products with a selective distribution.
In 1998, the famous advertising campaign “Because I’m worth it” was launched. With
the several series of acquisition, the company was a part of the top four brands in the
world.
The company also worked with charity association as UNESCO to recognize the
sciences work of women in the world. Therefore, it was the beginning of social
responsibility for the group.
To integrate the African market, the firm bought SoftSheen an American afro hair-
care brand. It was seen as one of the main opportunity to grow in the cosmetic
industry. The merger of this new purchase with Carson allowed L’Oreal to intensify
its presence on the African continent and to become the leader in the afro hair-care
products.
At the same time, the group was focused on the Asia and Eastern Europe markets and
the brand Maybelline worked well in China. However, during the 90’s, because of the
economic crisis in the Asia region, the group became interested in the Latin America
market. During 1999, the group recorded a great increase of products sold and one of
the biggest profits of the decade.
15
In 2002, L’Oreal created the “Ethnic Hair and Skin Research” in Chicago. It was the
first research center for ethnic skins and hair-care products. Chicago was a key place
because it regrouped many different ethnics, it was also close to Howard and
Northwestern universities. Moreover, Cosmair turned into L’Oreal USA. This change
of name permitted to regroup all the activities and to incorporate US businesses as
part of the firm.
Still in 2002, L’Oreal was in the center of the news, its CEO, Lindsay Owen-Jones
was elected “Manager of the year”. All this exposure was due to one of the best
growth of the company. Indeed, the news related the capacity to be present on many
markets and distribution channels, the quality of research, the acquisitions, the
management, the weak indebtedness… The key tool of the strategy is the brand
management. It means to acquire many firms, which allow L’Oreal to be present
worldwide, and to increase the competitions without cannibalization. The turnover of
L’Oreal is divided 3 main areas: Europe represents 50%3, 30% for the North
American and 20% by the rest of the world.
d. The challenge of nowadays
Back in 2006, the new CEO was Jean-Paul Agon, he took the place of Lindsay Owen-
Jones. When he became the CEO, L’Oreal had a double crisis: the economic crisis
and the familial crisis. That’s why, he would define others visions, values in order to
adapt the company to those changes. Beauty was put in the center of the identity.
Indeed the main goal of the brand was to offer innovative cosmetics and quality
3 Rapport financier annuel. (2015). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
16
products while responding to ethnic needs. The brand adopted a universalization
strategy to accommodate itself to the diversity.
L’Oreal would have a conquest spirit to seduce new consumers and double the target
for 2022. The emerging countries like India, Brazil, or China allow this ambitious
goal. They have specific needs known and a new envy of beauty thanks to the
increase of the middle classes.
The firm would also be based on innovations. Indeed, the innovation is linked to the
science and marketing. Before started, the brand must know the habits, behaviors and
specific needs of the target consumers. Then, it will research through many partners
and relations in order to obtain a new adapted product.
Finally, L’Oreal would suit to any diversity. It corresponds to the social
responsibilities, like durable innovations, equity woman and man for example. Even
with many changes, the group keeps a clear vision and goal. The economic crisis was
hard, but surmountable, it was seen as a turn in the organization. Thus, L’Oreal
regroups identity and diversity. It has always been faithful to its values and respectful
to the diversity. (Appendix: Table 1)
17
II. The external environment
The marketing environment regroups the actors and forces outside of the company
that have an impact on the relationships with the target consumers. It is divided
between the microenvironment and the macroenvironment.4 The microenvironment is
composed of the internal actors of a company, as the competitors for example. The
macroenvironment gathers the external forces as the political or technological, for
examples.
This section will define the macroenvironment of the company L’Oreal in order to
understand its opportunities and threats.
a. The market
L’Oreal is a brand in the cosmetic market. This sector groups all the set of products
and substances to beautify the body. Some of them are utilized for the hairs, the nails,
the skin, or as perfume and make-up. It is complex because there are many different
activities represented like laundry, fashion designer, or food. To define this market,
we use the words: “beauty products”. In the world market of the cosmetics, there are 5
distributions channels, which are retail, selective distribution, professional channel,
medical channel, and direct sale. The selective distribution is used for all the luxury
products but also the travel retail. The professional channel is utilized for the
professional products, like hairdressing salon, or spa. The medical channel involves
pharmacy, or doctors. The direct sale corresponds to the specialized shops, door-to-
4 Kotler, Armstrong, Saunders, & Wong. (2002). Principles of marketing (3rd ed.).
Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall.
18
door sale, and e-commerce. With its strategy, L’Oreal is present in the set of products
and distribution channels. It occupies a position of leader in cosmetics without expand
the brand to others sectors. Indeed, the market can also be divided into 3 different sets
of companies. (Appendix : Image 2.1)
b. The different types of company
i. The “players”
Firstly, the “players”, they use a limited distribution channels, for example: Estée
Lauder. They focus their divisions on perfumes and cosmetics, which represent 70%5
of their turnover. The companies in this group look alike in their strategy. To answer
to a new trend, they decided to produce some natural products, resulting in creating
new divisions or acquired new brands. Developing countries are one of the priorities
in their development. They also spend their budget in R&D to increase their capacity
of innovation. The main companies are situated in North America, Japan and Europe.
The 3 most important firms in North America are Avon, Estée Lauder then Coty.
Avon was created in 1886, this firm sells cosmetic products but also decoration,
cleaning and lingerie using private sell as distribution channel. For its cosmetic
products, the price positioning is middle and high end, which allows the brand to
realize more than 74%6 of its turnover in this field. The main turnover was made in
North America and today the brand try to integrate emerging countries. Even if, in
Brazil the company is dealing with some issues, it realizes great sells in other country
as in Russia. The major problems of the firm are firstly the local market, which is a
5 Collin, B., & Delplancke, J. (2015). L'Oréal: La beauté de la stratégie. Paris:
Dunod. 6 Annual Report. (2015). Avon. Retrieved, 2015, from
http://investor.avoncompany.com/GenPage.aspx?IID=3009091&GKP=210234.
19
big competition and secondly its distribution channel. Indeed, Avon had to change it
for the Chinese market. The new model of distribution is hybrid, it combines shops
and direct sell. Moreover, in order to satisfy the local needs, the brand acquired new
products more natural.
At the opposite of Avon, Estée Lauder is using the selective distribution to gain some
market share. The group defines its goal as an answer to the consumer needs and its
evolution through investments. Indeed, the brand imposed itself thanks to several
acquisitions and the quality of its products. Its position is high end, they dispose of all
range of products and types of client. The group also developed some brands on
others distributions as retail and professional for hair and health. Today, the group is
focused on the travel sector in order to reach new countries. In fact, the firm is
situated principally in Europe, America then Asia. Like the previous competitor
Avon, Estée Lauder is targeting the developing countries, and the future markets as
Africa or Middle East. One of the main advantages of this competitor is its financial
stability too.
Finally, the third most important company in North America is Coty. Historically,
Coty was founded in France. It was bought by the pharmaceutical brand Pfizer then in
1992 it became the propriety of Benckiser, a German firm. Since then, the head office
is in New York. Today, the main objective is the acquisitions of firms and patents and
they already have more than 50 pharmaceutical businesses. Recently, they tried to buy
Avon, which was not successful. Coty is also developing its presence on the new
markets, which represent only 12%7 of its turnover.
In Japan, the most important firm is Shiseido. The turnover of the company, mainly
realizes in its own country, is situated between the one of Estée Lauder and Coty, far
7 Coty, factsheet. (2015). Coty. Retrieved, 2015, from
http://investors.coty.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=251569&p=irol-irhome.
20
behind Avon. In Japan, the brand is selling with a retail distribution, however, it’s
using another strategy for its international business. It’s present in Europe and North
America with luxury products through its name. At the opposite in China the firm
works on retail with local brands. L’Oreal bought some of its acquisitions, because its
organization requires clarity.
In Europe, France has 3 main firms, aside L’Oreal, on the market of cosmetics.
The first one is Yves Rocher. It is a familial group, which is selling its products
through franchises. Almost the half of the turnover is made in France. The strategy of
the brand is to reinforce its position in natural products, as its competitors, they are
following the trend. Yves Rocher adapts its distribution to each country. Indeed, it is
using malls for India and private sells for Mexico, for example. The main force of the
brand is its position, which is solid.
The second business in France is Clarins. At the contrary of Yves Rocher, the brand
realizes 80% of its turnover outside France. The company is selling care products
mostly, then perfumes and makeup.
The third firm is L’Occitane en Provence. This group is specialized in natural
products, with a selective distribution. It has made 3 acquisitions in order to target the
French and European markets. The brand is also well present worldwide.
Then, the main competitor in Germany is Beiersdorf. Mostly present in the cosmetics,
the company own Nivea in retail. However, it is also specialized in the luxury
products and dermo-cosmetics. The group has a real success in developing countries,
even if the competition is hard. To compete it, Beiersdorf decided to focus its
products on face and body.
Finally, the last competitor is in Spain, the name of the brand is Puig. It’s a familial
group which is positioning on different markets as high end perfumes or makeup, for
21
example. To develop more opportunities, Puig is investing in R&D. Because of the
economic crisis in Spain, the brand is working mostly with Latin America.
ii. The luxury group
Secondly, the luxury group, they are present on the luxury market, not only cosmetic,
like LVMH. The activities of this group are composed of jewelries, accessories,
leather goods, wines, alcohols, perfumes and cosmetics. The perfumes and the
cosmetics permit them to make their investments profitable. However, cosmetic
products get less benefit from the luxury image of these brands. Indeed, consumers
prefer the innovation and the scientist’s guaranty. The health of the company is based
on the strategy. In fact, it depends of the manager. Even if, perfumes allow L-Oreal to
have a great turnover, it is not the case for the luxury cosmetics. Fragrances benefit
from the image of the business. However, a group as LVMH can make profits from its
sector through important acquisitions, which is giving knowledge and presence in the
market. As for the “players”, the luxury group is targeting emerging countries, with
travel retail or local markets, in order to increase the turnover. The main competitors
are situated in France and Switzerland.
On one hand, in France there are LVMH and Hermès. LVMH is the leader on the
luxury market thanks to a good strategy of acquisitions. The main advantage of the
group is its presence in wine, spirits/Liquor sectors and in selective distribution. Thus,
LVMH has a great position on many sectors. On the market of cosmetics, there are 3
types of acquisitions. The first one is prestige with Dior, the second one is based on
trends as Fresh and the third one is cultural, it depends of the symbols as Loewe in
Spain. The half of its turnover is made in Europe, even if the group has a good
22
international position. Like others competitors, the firm is targeting the developing
markets, through acquisitions in the travel retail and the development of the trendy
natural products.
At the opposite Hermes is a familial business and it is also present on many markets.
It diversifies thanks to the cook and design and leather goods. The image of the brand
is based on the perfumes, because it doesn’t produce any cosmetic.
On the other hand, there is Chanel, which is Swiss. The Wertheimer family manages
the group because one of the members of the family helped Coco Chanel to start her
business. In order to expand fields and knowledge, the brand acquired many products
in jewelries and accessories. The turnover is based on the perfumes and cosmetics,
mainly in Europe. It develops in emerging markets like China and Russia. The group
is dealing with some issues with the cosmetics, because it doesn’t answer to the actual
needs of the clients who are looking for innovative products.
iii. The diversified companies
Finally, the diversified companies work in the health beauty and also in the alimental,
as Johnson & Johnson. The companies in this group look alike due to their strength of
financial and commercial actions. But, the performances in this sector are mixed
between the brands. The medical channel gets more results than the companies in the
retail distribution. Indeed, the consumers are more attracted by pharmacy’s products,
because of their value for money and serious guaranties.
L’Oreal is not present in these groups. Indeed, each strategy, between the businesses,
is different in order to diversify them. There are the developed countries which
represent a mature geographic area, and the developing countries which are the most
23
attractive to increase the turnover of the company. Thus, this industry has many
competitors. It is hard to develop its business, that’s why the firms look alike.
Acquisition and innovation are the key competitive advantage. The main competitors
are situated in the United States, United Kingdom, Europe and Japan. The most
important are Procter&Gamble, Johnson&Johnson in USA, and Unilever in England.
Procter&Gamble is present one many different markets as house cleaning, food,
beauty products, baby care and health. The goal for the group is being more
specialized in cosmetics, to the detriment of the foods, in order to have a better
increase of the turnover. The strength of the company is built on its acquisitions and
its innovations through investments in R&D. The firm is not only targeting the
developing countries but also the new industrialized ones. It is an old company. In
fact, before it was the leader in advertising, today it seems to deal with some
innovation issues.
Then, Johnson&Johnsonn is the second most important American business in the
market. As Proter&Gamble, it is present on many sectors, mostly health and body
care. It is concentrated on the medical and natural products to target the developing
countries.
The third main competitor is Unilever, the British company. At the opposite, of the
previous businesses, Unilever is mostly present on 3 sectors: food, house cleaning and
body care. To reinforce its position in retail and others countries, the group made
some several acquisitions as Alberto Culver. The main force of the firm is its oldest
presence of the emerging countries, which now represent 58%8 of its turnover.
8 Strategic Report. (2015). Unilever. Retrieved, 2015, from
https://www.unilever.com/investor-relations/annual-report-and-accounts/#ara2015-
downloads.
24
Kao is the Japanese group in chemical and retail products. The beauty sector creates
18%9 of its turnover. The business adapts itself to each market. Indeed, in USA it’s
selling in retail however in Europe it produces luxury products.
At the opposite, Pierre Fabre, the main French competitor, is specialized in
pharmaceutical. Mostly present in Europe, it is targeting the developing countries.
To finish, Henkel is the main firm in Germany, essentially specializes in retail.
Thus, the market of cosmetics is oligopoly. Indeed, it is composed of a limited
numbers of big companies, which dominate the market. There are also some little
companies, which work locally.
This industry has many competitors worldwide. The rivalry from the competitors is
high. Indeed, the industry of cosmetics is in constant evolution, there are always some
new products. The market is mature in Europe, Japan and America. The competition
is based on the development of the firms worldwide. Thus, cosmetics are linked to
novelty, at the opposite luxury is used to promote, as an image, for the company in
order to gain the fidelity of the clients.
c. Porter’s five forces
“Porter’s five forces” is an analysis tool that defines the intensity of competition
inside a specific industry. In fact, for L’Oreal, it allows evaluating the competitive
position through its strengths or weaknesses.10
9 Annual Report. (2015). Kao. Retrieved, December 2015, from
http://www.kao.com/jp/en/corp_ir/reports.html. 10
Strategic Management Insight. (n.d.). Retrieved May 04, 2016, from
https://www.strategicmanagementinsight.com/tools/porters-five-forces.html
25
Even if, there is a strong competition, the industry stays attractive thanks to the
development of many fields. (Appendix: Table 2.2)
i. The intensity of the competition
There are many competitors in the cosmetics industry. Each of them differs by their
nationality and size. This oligopoly market is composed of multinational companies
and very small ones, which usually target a specific niche.
Moreover, there is a strong capacity of development thanks to the emerging countries,
on account of the new tendencies and the e-commerce. Thus, the competition is strong
in this industry.
ii. The threat of new entrance
The threat of new entrance determines the degree of difficulty to enter inside a
market. Indeed, this one is weak, because of the barriers to enter in the market.
Cosmetics industry has expensive prices related to high cost of production, marketing
or research. The market is mature, and consumers want a permanent progression of
the products. Thus, many firms are utilizing patents to block the access. The new
entrants could work if they differentiate themselves, but it will be very difficult
without a brand image and enough finance. It is a risky market because 80 to 90%11
of
the new companies disappear after 18 months.
11
Béatrice Collin. (2013, June). L’Oréal ou la construction d’un positionnement
unique et durable : Une étude empirique du secteur des cosmétiques. Retrieved from
http://www.strategie-aims.com/events/conferences/23-xxiieme-conference-de-l-
aims/communications/2938-loreal-ou-la-construction-dun-positionnement-unique-et-
durable-une-etude-empirique-du-secteur-des-cosmetiques/download
26
iii. The pressure from the substitutes
The pressure from the substitute products is not present on each sector. Indeed,
consumers have less quality needs for shampoo, for example, so most of them will
buy it in supermarkets. Besides, the “perfect” beauty can also be reach by the plastic
surgery, injection or others medicates. And moreover, the body care is able by the spa
and massages. Finally, the pleasure can be achieving through others products as
accessories. However, when the products require more technology, there is low
pressure because they depend on the brand image and its R&D. In general, there is no
decrease of the consumer needs for cosmetics.
iv. The power of the clients
For L’Oreal, there are 2 types of client: the distributors and the consumers. The
distributors are different on each division of the group. The sell can either be in the
shops and online. Moreover, they have a national presence compared to the company,
which is present worldwide. Thus, their power is weak.
However, the power of the clients is high for the industry. They call for good quality
products, because they are related to their health care. Even if, they like cheap price,
the most important criteria is the quality. The target is mostly feminine, generally it is
demanding for freshness. But, today, there is an increase of the demands from the
men and old persons, which the market has to adapt too. Because of this growth,
L’Oreal develops new range of products and reinforce its communication toward
these target audiences.
27
v. The power of suppliers
At the contrary the power of suppliers is low. Indeed, there are too many suppliers to
have an impact on the market. There are different types of suppliers for L’Oreal.
Firstly, the chemical substances manufacturer are scattered. Secondly, the packaging
producers have also a limited power. Finally, there are the communications agencies.
Thus, many of them depend of the cosmetics market, they are linked to the firms. The
changes from the suppliers could have disastrous impacts on the quality of the
product. However, it is little compared to the size of the groups.
d. The different aspects
The examination of the external forces shows how they affect the marketing strategy.
i. The legal aspect
The legal aspect represents the laws that have to been followed by the company to sell
its products. They differ in every country. For example, in Europe, the laws are
focused on the health care. The products have to be transparence about their
composition. Thus, the main groups of the market must be careful with the legislation.
It can also touch the productivity with work laws.
28
ii. The economic aspect
The economic aspect corresponds to the income, the inequality and the evolution of a
country. In France, for example, the cosmetics industry represents a important
advantage for the economy. Even during an economic crisis, the market is in
perpetual increase.
iii. The cultural aspect
The cultural aspect also based on social aspect. It is determined by the way of living,
the local tastes but also the demographic and the health. Indeed, in the world there is a
growth of oldest persons. The firms have to adapt and inform themselves to increase
the sells. In the industry, there is also a new demand from the man. Even if, the
companies need to be preoccupied by those changes, because cosmetics are also
influenced by others sectors, the businesses need to keep their identity with their
development.
iv. The technological aspect
The technological aspect is based on the evolution of the innovations, the investment
of a company and its R&D. Indeed, the growth of those is very high. In order to stay
competitive the innovations are required. The company needs to change the inside
organization to adapt to novelty. Thus, each level of the firm is concerned. It’s still a
29
main advantage, because others competitors have difficulties to catch the innovation.
This aspect also has some impacts on the chemical formulation of the products.
v. The environmental aspect
The environmental aspect concerns the consumption of the energy and the protection
of the environment. The cosmetic products have to take care of the body and the
environment of the consumers. There is much different legislation about this. Each
year, there is a new substance, which is deleted from the legal list of production.
Indeed, the groups are regularly controlled. Today, it can also be a marketing
advantage to have natural products. Moreover, the consumers are more and more
informed and concerned about the environment. (Appendix: Table 2.3)
30
III. The internal environment
The marketing objective is to create a customer satisfaction. In order to reach this
objective, the company has to build relationships inside its own departments. All
these actors might create advantages to increase the market shares, and thus the
turnover.
a. The diversity of products
The distribution channel is the process of making the goods or services available for
the consumer. Thus, this function consists to move the products or services from the
production area to the consumption of the client.12
Indeed, L’Oreal wants to be present everywhere. Therefore, it proposes to the
worldwide population, products according to their needs, cultures, and beliefs. In fact,
diversity is one of the main keys in the strategy of L’Oreal. To answer to this
diversity, the brand is separated in 5 divisions: Consumer products, professional
products, luxury products, active cosmetics, and the body shop. (Appendix: Table 3.1)
i. The consumer products
The consumer products are the one with accessible prices. They are targeting the most
important number of population. Thus, there are selling in the retail chains, and
supermarkets. This division is also using high technology to innovate and target
12
Armstrong, G., & Kotler, P. (2000). Marketing: An introduction. Upper Saddle
River, NJ: Prentice Hall.
31
middle classes population. It is composed of several brands: L’Oreal Paris, Garnier,
Maybelline New York, Softsheen-Carson, Margic, Essie and NYX. Today, there is a
little slowdown in this division since 2014. Makeup is the first category of this
division but hair and facial care are in the center of the growth especially in South
Asia. To counter this decrease, the brand made some acquisitions in the market.
Indeed, they acquired 3 new brands to reinforce the division in strategic countries.
These companies are Magic, NYX and NIELY. However, hair care made a strong
performance thanks to L’Oreal Paris and Garnier. In fact, these shampoos are having
a great expansion in developing countries but also in the United States and United
Kingdom. Withal, in Asia, there is a facial care, which is well working. Thanks to the
high quality products adapted to their needs, the general public is satisfied.
Moreover, this division is focused on the digital side. On one hand, the social media is
able to share the practices. On the other hand, it permits to communicate about the
products. The main turnover of the e-commerce side is made in China.
ii. The professional products
The professional products are for hair salons. There is much diversity, which
corresponds to specific demand from professional hairdressings. Indeed, the products
are selling in beauty salon professionals all over the world. This division contains
different acquisitions from L’Oreal: L’Oreal professional, Kérastase, Redken, Matrix,
Pureology, Decléor, Shu Uemura Art of hair, Essie, Carita and Mizani. Thanks to the
acquisition of Decléor and Carita, the division of professional products is now present
on every market. Indeed, those categories are: hair, skincare and nails beauty.
Consequently to this development, the brand needs to adapt itself according to the
32
geographic area. It must be dynamic and develop professional products in the new
markets. To build the expansion, L’Oreal is working on 3 different areas: the
education, the expansion of distribution channels and attractiveness. Indeed, the
education is the most important way to expand the market. It participates to the
training of the beauty professions.
The category with the main increase in 2014 was hair care. This was allowed by the
many innovations adapted to the women needs.
iii. The luxury products
The luxury products are divided in 3 parts: skin cares, makeups and perfumes. The
particularity of this division is it selects the distribution channel. Indeed, it has to be
coherent with the quality of the product, the price and the target consumers. That’s
why, it utilizes a selective distribution with an excellent service adapted to each type
of clients. This division is composed of different companies bought by L’Oreal:
Lancôme, Giorgio Armani, Kiehl’s, Yves Saint Lauren, Biotherm, Ralph Lauren,
Urban Decay, Clarisonic, Shu Uemura, Viktor&Rolf, Diesel, Cacharel, Helena
Rubinstein, Yue Sai, Guy Laroche, Paloma Picasso and Maison Martin Margiela.
Last year, the performance was great with a growth of 7.1 %13
in this market. There is
a different paradigm in the luxury sector, it corresponds to the new luxury. The new
luxury is more dynamic, indeed, it is using the new technologies. The digital side
allows being more interactive with the consumers. In this division L’Oreal knows a
good development, more particularly in Makeups and female perfumes. In fact,
L’Oreal is often at the beginning of new trends in those two sectors, thanks to its
13
Rapport financier annuel. (2015). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
33
capacity of innovation. The strategy, in the makeup category, is to express creativity
and modernity.
iv. The active cosmetics
The active cosmetics are the world number one dermo-cosmetics. This division is
targeting the health professional. Indeed, it corresponds to health and care products,
which are selling in drugstores and pharmacies. This division is composed of: Vichy,
La Roche-Posay, Skinceuticals, Roger&Gallet, and Sanoflore. This is a dynamic
market, which keeps growing with an augmentation of 8.7%. There is a real
investment that is made in scientific innovations. L’Oreal wants to adapt its
distribution model to the different markets. Indeed, the brand participates to the “skin-
alliance in demo-cosmetic science forum”. This forum permits to create some
exchanges between dermatologists and L’Oreal’s researchers for the evolution and
evaluation of the division. The company is also present on the digital market with e-
skin.com. The website proposes some advices and diagnostics on the health beauty
for the consumers.
v. The body shop
The Body Shop is made from natural ingredients, in the fair market. This brand has
been bough by L’Oreal to integrate the ethnic engagement. Moreover, it is selling its
product though exclusive boutiques. Thanks to this division, the brand has a unique
positioning which is complementary with the others categories. The turnover is
34
mostly made during the celebrations, like at the end of the year. In Christmas, the
brand creates a unique range, with the most successful gift boxes.
b. The culture
i. According to the CEO
The culture of the brand is based on the CEO decisions. Indeed, at the time of
Eugenie Schueller, the main objective was the innovation. He also integrated the
proportional salary and the importance of Research and development. Then, François
Dalle implemented the future vision, in order to always improve the company and
face the negative impacts. A little bit after, Lindsay Owen-Jones focused the strategy
on the international expansion to develop the markets and the position. Finally, Jean-
Paul Agon increased the corporate social responsibility while engaging the group in
human and environmental activities. It grows the good image of L’Oreal for the
clients and also the workers.
ii. The acquisitions
The acquisitions of many others firms increased the size of the group. Thus, the
employees need to be united to show the common values. Inside the company, the
organization develops freedom and autonomy for the workers. Thereby, they have the
capacity to imagine novelties. The brand is essentially composed of dynamic and
talented persons. In order to stay in this energetic culture, L’Oreal is working with
school. They created a business game in 2001 in which the students have to pretend to
be the manager of a cosmetic brand. Through the website, they are in competition
with the others. It’s a great opportunity for them to learn but also for the company as a
35
recruitment tool. Of course, Lindsay Owen-Jones particularly focuses on the women
position and responsibilities, to increase the diversity and equality. Moreover, the
management is also founded on competition between employees. Indeed, François
Dalle decided to create a confrontation before each strategic step. It could be in
advertising, marketing, or production. The workers had to promote their ideas in front
of different chiefs. Thus, in the culture of L’Oreal the competition is a key to
innovation and to create work of quality. However, the employees could be exposed
to a high pressure. Since the several acquisitions, it is more difficult for L’Oreal to
keep this cohesion inside its teams. The firm is dealing with many different countries
and their values. Thence the adaptation to each country’s behaviors is vital.
iii. The social responsibility
The sustainable development permits to reduce the impacts on the environment
through the production and the composition of the products. But also, it is integrated
to the R&D inside the activities. The group is member of the “World Business
Council for Sustainable Development” and “Pacte Mondiale” from the ONU. Thus,
L’Oreal engaged to respect principles for the earth and human being. In order to
decrease the gas emissions during the production, the firm is fixing itself some goals.
For example, in Belgium, on of the factory have no carbon emissions. The brand is
trying to raise the utilization of renewable energies, as in India, the company invested
in solar energy. Moreover, L’Oreal adopts a recycling politic in order to decrease the
waste through its packaging for example. Thanks to all of those progresses, the firm
had already been recognized as one of the most engaged for the global warning.
36
With the engagement for the environment, the group also did some changes in the
social resources. Indeed, the business created a foundation in 2007, the main goals are
the education and the researches. It has a big capital, which counts millions of euros.
A little bit after in 2009, L’Oreal launched the program “Beauté du Coeur”, this one
helps the persons touched by a disease or an accident. The group is working with
others French charity associations to extend the help. For the researches, there is the
program “Pour les femmes et la science” and for the education it is “Coiffeurs contre
le sida”. Thanks to the scientist’s evolution, the group developed some fake skins in
order to stop the tests on animals since 1989. Thus, the brand respects 3
responsibilities: the protection of humans, quality and environment.
c. The human resources
Inside the group of L’Oreal there are 70 000 employees. There is a diversity of works,
cultures and nationalities. (Appendix: Image 3.2)
The administrative council is composed of 15 administrators: the CEO, 5 of them are
from the shareholders, 7 are independents and 2 represent the employees. They decide
about the future of the group through opportunities and a strategic organization. The
communication is the key to elaborate a clear vision. The council has also for
responsibility to evaluate the work inside the company. To respect the ethic, imposed
by the firm, they signed the charter, which regroups the following values: integrity,
respect, courage and transparency. The policy is based on fundamental engagements
as conformity, innovation, and social responsibility and environmental.
The executive committee has the decision and authority power on the operational and
functional business divisions. They manage the activities worldwide. The committee
37
is composed of 16 members with the CEO. They are divided between the geographic
areas and the business divisions.
d. The financial resources
The cosmetic industry has known an increase of 3,9%14
in 2015. (Appendix: Image
3.3) The market counts about 203 billions euros, the growth is regular and allows by
the social networks and new trends. The main competitors are L’Oreal, Unilever and
Procter&Gamble. Indeed, L’Oreal had a turnover of 29.94 billions US dollars in
2014. The turnover of the industry is mainly made in Asia, and then in North
America. Skin and hair care are the most sold products, followed by makeup and
perfumes. The market of the cosmetics targets consumers who are looking for
innovation, and diversity in products to fulfill their desires. The trends of the year
2014 were about personalization and recommendation. Indeed, the consumers want to
be informed and connected with their brands. It also creates a new area: the digital
beauty. This is a great opportunity for the market, which permits to interact with the
clients but also touch new consumers.
In 2015, the new markets were India, South Africa and Turkey. In fact, these news
markets created 2/3 of the development of the industry. Inside the makeup division,
the trend is focused on the lips. Thanks to the expansion of the smartphones, the
“selfie” encourages the sale of beauty products. However, the most dynamic sector is
the luxury product. This strong energy is permitted by the e-commerce.
14
Rapport financier annuel. (2015). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
38
For the year 2015, the financial report registered an increase of the turnover of 12.1%.
The division with the most important turnover is the consumer products with 48.7%,
then the luxury products with 29.8% for 2015. The new markets represented 39.5% of
the turnover, it is composed of East Europe, Latina America, Africa and Asia.
However, the most important continent stays Western Europe.
The skin care made the most significantly increase. Indeed, it performed 29,6% of the
turnover, just before makeup and hair products. The e-commerce allowed this growth.
In fact, the field counts 1,3 billions euros.
The main profitability is made in active cosmetic. Thus, the company has 70%15
of its
asset as own funds. According to Christian Mulliez, the vice president of L’Oreal, the
growth is based on trust. Indeed, the group adopts a professional and ethical politic,
which permits to control the risks and the opportunities.
e. The risks
L’Oreal faces many risks because it evaluates in a dynamic industry. (Appendix,
Table 3.4)
i. The communication
Firstly, the activity is linked to the image forward the market. Indeed, the group has
many acquisitions, each one has a risk to face critics. This issue is intensified by the
development of the social networks. In order to reduce the impact, the brand created
software to watch the communication. The brand also takes care of the quality during
15
Rapport financier annuel. (2015). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
39
the production, the satisfaction of the clients and the respect of the laws. To increase
the loyalty of the consumers, the firm extols transparency. They are communicating
about the substances, the performances either as the quality. The activity depends of
the geographic area. In fact, some of the sales could decrease because of the weather,
or the economic situation. L’Oreal is present in 130 countries today and realized a
turnover of 64.5%16
outside West Europe, in 2014. Thereby, it deals with many locals
and internationals competitors. Innovation is the key to diversify beauty. Moreover,
some acquisitions may have a negative impact. Indeed, a brand could have some
issues to integrate the group. This is why they created an administration council,
which examines the potentials future acquisition.
ii. The intellectual and industrial propriety
Secondly, the legal risks regroup the intellectual and industrial propriety, and the
laws. L’Oreal has to protect its brands to fights against forgery. Through its many
innovations, the firm has to ensure the utilization. Some competitors could also
contest the industrial propriety.
Furthermore, there are many laws in all the countries where the group is present.
European regulation is one of the strongest. For example, in 2014, the European
cosmetics directive implemented the 7th
edition law for animals testing. In order to
prevent some risks, the companies of the cosmetics industry are often inspected.
16
Rapport financier annuel. (2015). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
40
iii. The financial risk
Finally, the financial risks are the issues on money and capital.
Because of all these acquisitions, L’Oreal has to do loans to pay the brands and the
funding depends on the rate. The company made some loans, and it reimburses
through a variable rate. In order to prevent any change, the group has a politic to
cover the risk of the interest rate.
With its international presence, the group needs to adapt itself to the changes of
currency. The change of the currency could have disastrous impact on the turnover.
Thus, the money chosen for the different brands is the one of the producer. All the
annual needs are calculated previously for each division. They are examined during
the year in order to have a general view of the flow. Even with all the precautions,
there is still some lost.
Moreover, the production of the cosmetics is made with raw materials. They are
present in the composition of the products. An increase of the substances could affect
the prices of sale. Thus, the company depends of their prices. As for the raw
materials, the price of the energy worldwide can impact the company too. Firstly, it
would increase the price of the products and secondly the sells. Finally, the turnover
would decrease. To avoid this situation, L’Oreal negotiate with its suppliers the index
of prices.
41
IV. The marketing strategy
“Marketing management is the art and science of choosing target markets and
building profitable relationships with them.” 17
Through a marketing concept, the
brand needs to answer the wants and needs of the target consumers in order to
compete the others companies of the same industry. The strategy must define its goals
to develop and maintain an adapted organization.
a. Portfolio of brands
L’Oreal has a portfolio of brands to reinforce the strategy on all territories. Indeed, in
2014, the company had new acquisitions. Those have been made to boost the
leadership and the market share, but also, to have a great position in key categories.
Thus, the strategy of the brand is unique, this is a globalization while respecting the
differences. The beauty is defined, as an answer to the specifics needs of each
consumer in various countries. In fact, this is the opposite of standardization. Indeed,
L’Oreal puts the consumer in the center of every research, to understand their needs
according to the geographic area. The strategy of innovation is based on accessibility
and adaptation. The products are adapted to the beauty habits of all men and women.
To develop this strategy, the world market has been separated in 8 homogeneous
districts. L’Oreal is present in this world, with a center based in France.
In the United States, L’Oreal bought the makeup brand NYX. NYX has a strong
growth in this country thanks to a digital communication. It reinforces the social
17
Kotler, P., & Armstrong, G. (2006). Principles of marketing. Upper Saddle River,
NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall.
42
networks side of the company and allows answering to a new trend of selling
professional makeup to people. L’Oreal also purchased Carol’s Daughter. This is a
multicultural brand with a tendency for natural beauty.
In Brazil, L’Oreal has taken Neily with Cor & Ton, for hair care and coloring. It
permits to the brand to development the consumer products, and touches middle
classes in Latin America.
In Europe, L’Oreal acquired Decléor and Carita. The main assets of those two
companies are the specializing on the market of professional skin care.
Finally, in China, the company Magic was bought to strengthen its position on the
second global market. This is a very popular brand for face care.
b. The performances in each country
L’Oreal has a growth in every country where the brand is located. Indeed, the
company is strengthening its position into the world, at the exception of the north of
America. The most important market is Europe, principally in the North, South and
West. There are strong performances, and a good growth. However, the first
geographic area is the new market since 2012. It allows the brand to increase its
market share, with a great dynamic. Even if, there is a little drop in Asia, more
particular in India, the development stays heavy.
In North America, L’Oreal realized a growth of 3,5 %18
owning to the slow down of
the consumer products.
In Latin America, the turnover increased of 4,6 % thanks to the expansion of the
consumer products.
18
Rapport financier annuel. (2015). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
43
In East Europe, the brand has 9,8 % of augmentation with the development of the
Luxury and professional divisions.
In West Europe, the augmentation is about 2.3 % allowed by all the divisions
especially in Germany, United Kingdom and Spain.
In Asia and Pacific, the development varied between 4.7 and 4.8 %, indeed for
Indonesia, Hong-Kong and Australia the growth is especially strong.
The Chinese market increased the need of supplicated products. Mostly in beauty and
skincare, there is a strong competition.
In Africa and Middle East, the company knows an increase of 12.1 %, which can be
seen in all kind of divisions.
Thus, L’Oreal is the leader of the beauty travel retail. This is a dynamic company,
which has for ambition to double its size the next 10 years. The brand is the only one
to cover all of the different divisions in the whole world. The travel retail is seen as
the sixth continent. Indeed, this is a market with a strong potential, as the construction
of new airports. Beauty is the center of this new category, in fact there is an evolution
of the multi-category stores in specific shops. The target of the travel retail is a
“global shopper”, this is someone who buy where he is. L’Oreal is actually studying
the most frequent destinations according to their nationalities. The brand wants to
create a personalized approach. Thereby, the travel retail permits to show the different
brands of L’Oreal and to maximize communication. It is a key to attract and win
loyalty from new consumers.
44
c. The organization
The geographic areas are divided in 5 parts: West Europe, America, Pacific/Asia, East
Europe and Africa/Middle East. These divisions are made to improve the knowledge
and innovation of local needs. Today, it is still based on a strategy of universalization.
The group is firstly focused on the emerged countries with ethnic minorities and then
develops L’Oreal in the emerging countries. As Africa or Middle East, this market
represents billions of new consumers. Inside the organization, the brand had set up a
strategy to increase the norms and practices for the new target countries.
Marketing has reinforced its comprehension of the consumers. It uses the
digitalization to develop the creativity and the communication through different
distribution.
Research and Innovation have worldwide and regional centers to be close to the local
markets in order to create the most adapted products for the clients.
Human resources are universalized. Indeed, the recruitment and formation of
managers are based on the values and the culture of L’Oreal.
Operations have to adapt the products and make them accessible for the target
markets. The firm developed production sites in the emerging countries to increase
the creation of products.
Communication is focused on face-to-face interactions. In fact, managers need to visit
the local markets to have a clear vision of the situation.
Thus, L’Oreal is almost present in all the countries. However, its international activity
is still focused on implementation. Indeed, the worldwide development was made on
client needs, beauty rituals and then on the distributions.
45
d. The different geographic areas
The strategy of the group has 4 high stakes: the mature markets, the emerging
countries, the new borders and the 6th
continent.
i. The mature market
The mature market is composed of West Europe, North America and Japan. This is
where L’Oreal has a great turnover despite the economic crises. The capacity of
innovation is able by many researches centers. Thus, those markets represent a
development for the ethnic products thanks to the minorities and the increase of
demands from man. There is an important competition, because all the main
competitors resulted from these markets. Moreover, the group made a lot of
acquisitions, which are some of the most important brands of the world today.
The West Europe is the main activity of L’Oreal. Indeed, it represents 1/319
of the
turnover of the group. Even if, the turnover is decreased in this geographic area, it
allows increasing the one in the emerging markets. The brand faces the aging of the
population, it offers a new type of consumers. Thus, there is an increase of skin
products.
The North America is targeted through L’Oreal USA which counts 10 000 employees.
There were many competitors, and the French quality was not working. At the time of
François Dalle, he decided to create the slogan “Because you’re worth it” in order to
optimize the brand image. It worked because the turnover increased and the quality of
the products had a great reputation. But, it was with the development of the luxury
19
Rapport financier annuel. (2015). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
46
division that the brand grown its presence. Thanks to Lancôme, the group could
compete with two main competitors, which still are Estée Lauder and Revlon. Thus,
to enter on the country North America, L’Oreal has to acquire local businesses as
Ralph Lauren, for example.
The Japan is the second market of cosmetics after the USA. This country is difficult
to enter because the consumers prefer the national brands. Indeed, the Japanese firms
have the most important position. The success didn’t start at the beginning of the
entrance on the market, but with the creation of Nihon L’Oreal KK. The group also
decided to put some research centers to adapt the products to the local needs, and to
acquire Shu Uemura a Japanese brand. This expansion respects the strategy of
universalization and the value of beauty for everyone.
ii. The emerging countries
The emerging countries regroup Asia, Latina America, Russia and East Europe.
L’Oreal realizes 1/3 of its turnover on this market. Indeed, these countries have an
important potential thanks to the increase of the middle class and, of the beauty and
appearances. They differentiate themselves from the mature countries with their types
of skin, cultures and environments. Those changes allow innovations.
China creates the 3rd
most important turnover of L’Oreal, even if the market is leaded
by Procter&Gamble. The group is present on the retail distribution with Maybelline
and L’Oreal Paris, and on the luxury distribution with Lancôme, mostly. The
development in China was hard because of the industrial and commercial laws. It
started with the hair care products and the cosmetics came after. Indeed, there was a
cultural revolution that increases the sale of makeups. That’s why, the firm is
47
targeting urban woman between 20 and 35 years old. Because there are still living
with their parents, they have a great purchasing power: 20%20
of their salary in spent
in cosmetics products. The main issue was to teach to the target client how to use the
beauty products. The Chinese market see the makeup products as superficial, indeed
only 15% of the beauty products are sold. The culture of the country is based on the
traditional medicine because there is an interest for the old traditions. However, with
the increase of the Chinese tourism, the group decided to distribute its products in
airports through the travel retail. Moreover, because of the rapid growth of the
country, many cities were destroyed and the air pollution increased a lot. Thus, the
citizens need to protect their skin from this environment, so there is a new demand for
the natural products. Today, there are also personalized advices and services in the
shops. Moreover, L’Oreal made the choice to use the e-commerce to touch most of
the population. In fact, thanks to this distribution the turnover grown of 10%21
. The
distribution channels chosen are the beauty store chains and department shops. There
are new distribution channels as the TV direct selling and the e-commerce because
more than 500 000 000 of Chinese have Internet now.
L’Oreal implemented itself in China in 2004 through the acquisition of the brand Yue
Sai, and Mininurse, the same year. Those acquisitions gave a great potential to the
group, indeed it allowed a strong position in the market, older consumers, and a
developed R&D. L’Oreal launched many new products and inspired itself from the
ads campaign in France. In fact, the brand used different models to promote the
products. In 2006, the sells decreased, thus, the group introduced the luxury division.
20
L’Oréal in China : Marketing Strategies for Turning Around Chinese Luxury
Cosmetic Brand Yue Sai. (2013). Insead, The Business School for the World.
Retrieved November, 2015, from cases. insead. edu. 21
Rapport financier annuel. (2015). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
48
It determined a clear vision and a new role inside the market. The advertising was
focused on new lifestyle though the supermodel Du Juan, which represented the
modern Chinese woman.
L’Oreal is present in Brazil for 50 years, it allows the entrance inside the all continent.
Because, there is a big diversity of skins, the firm had to implement a research center
to innovate the products. In Brazil, the culture is also based on the appearances of the
body and the beauty. Moreover, the population is spending a lot of money in the hair
care products and the market is really preoccupied by the natural compositions. For
the retails, L’Oreal has two brands, which are Colorama and Maybelline. The division
is well working in active cosmetics because the sector is adapted to the local needs.
The development of professional products is based on the creation of institutes. The
luxury products of the group are the leader in this country, they are targeting the
Brazilian travellers through the travel retail.
The country of India is still moderate today. It has an important potential, because it’s
dynamic and attractive. The population is attached to the old customs, so the natural
substances too. The distribution is made in hypermarket and traditional shops:
kiranas. This market is at the opposite of the others. Indeed, L’Oreal had to adapt the
products to the tradition and the humid weather. The packaging had to be changed, for
example they created only one dose of shampoo. The competition is important, there
are many national as regional competitors present on many distributions. Indeed, the
Indian brands have some trouble to take some market shares. They have only 9%22
of
them against 31 % for the main competitor Unilever. The beauty of this country
defines itself as a family business. Thus, L’Oreal implanted the group thanks to an
22
La stratégie de L’Oreal pour conqueror le marché Indien. (2014). Association Ege.
Retrieved November, 2015, from
http://bdc.aege.fr/public/Strategie_loreal_pour_conquerir_inde.pdf.
49
acquisition, then it introduced its own brands as Garnier and Body Shop and finally it
developed several divisions as luxury and professional. In 1990, the sector of the
professional products didn’t exist, so L’Oreal needed to develop it. In fact, the
company founded a school specialized in hair care in Mumbai. The strategy of the
brand is based on its communication. It utilized many ambassadors as Indian
supermodels and it sells the image of the French products. The target consumers are
the middle classes, so the ads campaign is translated in 8 different languages. Those
entire elements permit seducing and creating a relationship with the consumers. Thus,
L’Oreal sells innovative products in order to replace the traditional ones.
East Europe is a fragile market. With the end of the cold war, L’Oreal had the
opportunity to develop its presence. However, there was a dynamic and strong growth
of 21.1%23
in 2008. The professional division made the major success. This division
provided products for each type of salons: accessible to luxurious. Moreover, the
group educated more than 40 000 hairdressers the same year. It provided technical
skills for an adapted distribution channel. L’Oreal is using a selective distribution,
which is centered in Poland and Hungary. The firm is focused on the retail, because it
is accessible for the most of the population. Russia has a strong potential, the
population spend a lot of money in cosmetics. Even if, the firm is the leader in East
Europe, the situation stays fragile. Firstly, the politic and economic situation is
unstable and secondly the international competitors are stronger. Thus, l’Oreal is
reinforcing its position thanks to local acquisitions. The strategy is well working
because 9/10 women know the brand Lancôme. The company is using the French
image to sell its products and inspire the target audience. It is giving dreams to the
young Russian women mostly. Moreover, in order to reach more consumers, the
23
L'Oreal report. (2008). Easter Europe. Retrieved, 2009, from www.loreal.fr/.
50
group tripled its shops in only 3 years. At the opposite in Ukraine, the most appreciate
brand is Maybelline. It has a great success in the eastern countries because it is
adapted to the local needs. L’Oreal also meet its clients in universities as a beauty
advisor. Thus, the company has an important place the heart of the population.
iii. The new borders
The new borders are an interesting market because of the increase of the middle
classes. Firstly, as for any country, the group needs to adapt the varieties of culture
and beauties. Secondly, it represents a risk of investment because there is sometimes
unstable economic or political situation. The new borders are: America Latina with
Brazil and Mexico mainly, Asia which is composed of China and India, East Europe
and Africa/Middle East.
In Middle East is well present in this market. Managers came to the countries to
organize the strategy of implementation. Thus, L’Oreal has an important position. The
products had to be adapting to the weather, which is really warm. The group is using
the travel retail to touch the emirates and to differentiate itself from competitors.
Israel was more complicated to work with. Firstly, there were some politic issues, as
the German occupation in France during the World War II. Secondly, there was the
boycott of the acquisition of the group Helena Rubinstein. It is a symbol a Jewish
industry for the Arabic countries. At this time, L’Oreal stopped its business in Israel,
but changed its strategy and apologized to the community. Today, the firm is the
leader in this country. It has a great potential, because this is the market, which spends
the most important amount of money in cosmetic products.
51
In Africa, the group has a strong position thanks to its acquisitions. It is a complex
market with much diversity of skins and hairs. One of the main issues is the
purchasing power, which is poor, plus the political instabilities. However, there is a
good opportunity to invest in order to reach new consumers.
iv. The 6th
continent
The 6th
continent is the travel retail. It is hard to identify the clients, and the risk
counterfeiting is high. The distribution is made in the duty free and it is a mix of
products. However, the middle class increases inside the airports. Thus, this is a
potential market too.
The strategy of L’Oreal has no boundaries and none of this market is more important
than another.
e. The different steps of the strategy
There are 3 main phases in the strategy of the brand: Internationalization,
globalization and universalization.
In the 60’s, the group was focused on the international development. Firstly, the
company had to target the neighboring countries with the same cultures and a close
geographic position. Indeed, L’Oreal was concentrated on market with the same
characteristics. When the activities were well developed, the company started to
produce worldwide. Thus, the firm would work with distant nations. The growth is
slow but organized. The internationalization would be until the 80’s. With this phase,
52
the exportations increased a lot, the position was mainly in Europe and the luxury
market was created.
The change of phase was sudden because it was made as a dynamic transformation.
During the globalization, there is a transfer of competences. In fact, L’Oreal was
exporting its activities, organization and knowledge to the worldwide market. Thus,
the acquisitions were integrated to its core values in order to share the management
competences in each country. This is a process of co-creation, with the ability to take
common decisions.
The third phase was made with Jean-Paul Agon. He took the control of the firm when
it was dealing with many issues. The turnover was about 8%24
in 2007 and decreased
to 3,8% in 2008. The negative impact created some doubts about the capacity of the
company to face the problems. Thus, in 2009, there was general meeting to define the
basics and values of L’Oreal. The group decided to focus itself on the universalization
and to increase its presence on emerging countries. In fact, for the brand, the world
was divided in 3: emerged countries, BRICS and the “Next 12”. The universalization
is based on the knowledge on each culture and the adaption to the clients in order to
offer the most adjustable product to the right market. The main goal was to reach
billions of new consumers.
f. The universalization
The strategy of universalization is used for all the activities of the group.
The retails need to adapt their products to the local beauties and to utilize small
prices. Indeed, the quality also has to be above the competitors without being high
24
Collin, B., & Delplancke, J. (2015). L'Oréal: La beauté de la stratégie. Paris:
Dunod.
53
end. Each brand of this division differentiates itself thanks to its own advantages and
position on the market. The image of the brands is based on the slogan “Because I
worth it” and on the muses who represent the consumers.
The luxury products are targeting the rich population who has a huge diversity. They
distinguish themselves by the cultures and the prices. In order to increase the number
of clients, the group developed its position on different distributions as shops and e-
commerce.
The professional products offer an accessible range of skin cares. Those products
were created on the local needs. Thus, now, they can touch niche markets. Thanks to
the partnerships with hair salons, L’Oreal has the opportunity to conquer more clients
and acquire new divisions.
The active cosmetics are changing its own components to adapt themselves to the new
markets as Brazil.
The Body Shop is focused on the e-commerce to reach new consumers.
Thus, the main goal of each activity is to have more clients while sharing the same
knowledge and organization.
54
V. The impact of the cosmetics brand
a. The wants of consumers
According to the agency 79C, 45% of the consumers want products of quality.
Indeed, the functional characteristics are more needed. Then, they want a self-esteem
with a product which valorizes their ego. Finally, there is an emotional envy. The
consumers like the interaction with the company. They are buying for the story of the
brand and the dreams it creates.
An advertising campaign impacts the clients through the quality of the product, the
design and its promotion mostly. It has to make them dream and react according to a
story. 36% 25
of the woman is ready to buy thanks to an appropriate story.
In order to promote the brand, the most convenient places are the shops and the
showcases. They are showing the history of the firm. However, the clients are more
sensible to the online communication, as the telephone or social networks. Even if the
television is the most used to touch a larger population, the mobile devises and the
online communication allows the company to interact with the consumers.
The study shows the wants from the clients. Today, it is more focused on the
emotional side. As l’Occitane, one of the main competitors of L’Oreal in France, the
firm is showing the knowledge and the old values. Thanks to this story, the company
has a great turnover.
Because of the economy of many competitors, the clients have many choices. It
makes them more demanding and informed. In fact, the consumers are receptive when
25
Tungate, M. (2009). Le monde de la beauté. Dunod.
55
there is a novelty. Make them dream, create a connection, a story are some advantages
adapted to the needs.
b. The classification of the population
The classification of the population is based on 5 beauty archetypes. There are the
“powerful peacocks”, the “seductive foxes”, the “social butterflies”, the “graceful
swans” and finally the “confortable cats”.
Firstly, the “powerful peacocks” represent 15%26
of the population, they are really
dynamic, and looking for new experiences. For them the beauty is the power and the
success.
Secondly, the “seductive foxes” are the largest group, it counts 27% of the population.
The beauty is synonym of femininity, romantic and sexiness.
Thirdly, the “social butterflies” are composed of 16% of the population. They are
mostly present in Latin America. Beauty is a sharing experience. It inspired beautiful
woman. They buy a lot of products for their relationships as family and friends.
Then, the “graceful swans” include 23% of the population. Beauty is a confidence that
they like to improve it. There are mostly present in Europe and US.
Finally, the “comfortable cats” represent 19% of the population. They prefer the
natural products, or no one. They like their natural skins and they don’t hope for a
change with the utilization of the cosmetics. They are mostly present in Europe and
US. However, the population of the emerging countries is at the opposite of these
types of consumer.
26
The truth about beauty. McCann truth central from http://truthcentral.mccann.com.
56
The clients are becoming co-creators in the cosmetics market. For women, there are 4
steps to be beautiful. The steps are divided between “Looking beautiful”, it is
composed of the foundational beauty and the enhancement beauty and then “Feeling
beautiful” which is created of wellness beauty and emotional beauty.
The “Looking beautiful” are the basics in order to provide the foundation of the
beauty. It also integrates the different elements that women can change for events as
the hairs, for example.
The “Feeling beautiful” is the healthy way of life the woman adopts in order to have
the perfect skin and body. It is also about the behavior and attitude that show the
natural beauty inside a person.
c. The definition of the beauty
According a research by aufeminin.com, on 8 600 woman, 25% of them think the
makeup is essential. Indeed, they are influenced by the society. Our society represents
the “perfect” women everywhere. Because of the new technologies the ideal can
differ from the reality. The advertising is the image of the new tendency. It shows the
evolution of the social class and the actual norms.
According to the survey that I made, the women buy cosmetics for one main reason:
to feel and look pretty. (Appendix: Survey 5.1) This purchase depends on mainly the
price, the recommendation of the relatives and opinion leaders. However, 70% of
them think the perfect beauty is the natural one. Only 10% can go out without any
make up, and 98% need the cosmetics for their first date. Thus, the beauty products
help themselves to feel more confident. The days without any make up depend on the
skin issues, the situation, the time and the persons.
57
For 63% of them, the advertisings have an impact on the definition of the beauty,
mainly towards kids and teenagers. In fact, even if they recognize the models are
photoshopped and the image is unreal, 45% admitted they compare themselves to it,
consciously as unconsciously. But, none of them are thinking the product make them
reach the beauty of the ads.
To conclude, the ads permits thinking the cosmetic products will help them feel
attractive and prettier. However, they know the model image is a fake and the perfect
beauty doesn’t necessarily need cosmetics.
Today, there is a decrease of the politic and religious values. The corporations and
their communication make the power. This is a society of consumption where the
valuable speeches are the one inside the advertising. The consumers are spectators.
Their goal is to spend money to obtain the image conveyed by the brand. Everything
is based on the appearances and the research of the perfect identity.
The culture is a key factor of the “perfect” appearance. Indeed, today the overweight
persons are discriminate. However, during the XX century, the activity had a negative
image. The pleasure had to be immediate. The change was also made by the
evolution of the medicine. The introduction of the health and the diets were invented
in order to live much longer. So, the society imposes to respect our body and fight the
degradation over the time.
The medias are giving advises to bring beauty to each women in the world. The
products are supposed to help us to transform and obtain the right image. Because the
publicity offers a model of a young and thin woman as perfect, the consumers are
following this as an example.
One of the examples of the change made by the Medias is the hair removal. For
hygienic as esthetic reasons, the woman have to remove them. There are also the
58
products to avoid the sweat. Even if the deodorants contain a lot of aluminum, which
is bad for our health, we keep using them for our appearance.
But, the goal to show us these negatives images is to increase the sells. The perfect
tan is also recommended today. Doctors don’t accept this tendency, because a big
exposure could have bad consequences for our skin.
Moreover, mostly the woman frequently utilizes the diets. It seems the body is an
investment. Indeed, statistics show it helps to find a job or a relationship.
In order to reach an inaccessible body, the woman is ready to spend a lot of money
and put their physical and psychological health in danger. Indeed, they choose to have
an inappropriate alimentation. The perfect image reflects a low self-esteem for the
consumers, which could create a depression.
Everything is made to increase the turnover of the companies. The body is a goal that
can’t be achieve for the common woman. In fact, because it is sometimes impossible
to reach, consumers will never have it and keep buying the products to obtain it. Thus,
the turnover of the group as L’Oreal is still increasing. Younger and thinner are the
two main messages of the Medias. Indeed, if some woman doesn’t need to loose some
weight, everyone is getting older.
Moreover, the feminine body is used to sell, sometimes it doesn’t have any link with
the product. It is utilized to attract both man and woman, because it brings a “sexy”
touch.
For any types of promotion, the message conveyed is the same: magazines,
televisions and billboards.
Magazines are mostly utilized in France for example. It is full of retouched photos
and diet articles. These magazines are based on the appearances. In fact, this is what
the consumers want to see. In an Australian magazine, once the cover was made with
59
a girl less thin than normally, thus, the sell decreased and it received negatives
comments. As described previously, this inaccessible beauty changed over the time.
Before, the shapes were seen as attractive and today the models weight 23%27
less
high than the average.
Televisions also spread a wrong message to every woman. Actresses are used as
model but they respect the norms of the society: thin and young. The woman’s body
is discriminate and influenced to increase the sells. However, Dove, a brand of the
competitor Unilever, shows each type of woman into the world for its campaign. It
corresponds to a great change because it is using normal women.
The worsts are the billboards. None of the woman is real. The models or celebrities
have makeup, fake hairs and they are retouched too. The main difference with the
reality can be seen because there is often no expression on the face.
d. The universalization of the beauty
The universalization of the beauty is one of the objectives of L’Oreal. There are many
types of skins in the world, in order to implement the brand in each country, the
strategy of L’Oreal is to adapt itself. Indeed, the planet counts only 3% of white
persons, according to “Etudes nationales démographiques français”. The contradiction
into the cosmetic market is the brands need to adapt themselves to the consumers
however they are the ones that create the “perfect” beauty.
As in Japan, the universalization impacts the culture of the beauty. In fact, since 1868,
the traditional culture has been replaced by the esthetic of the occidental woman.
27
Question: What are the requirements for being a model? Is there a minimum or
maximum height, weight or other factor? (n.d.). Retrieved May 04, 2016, from
https://models.com/help/005-what_are_requirements.html
60
Before, the tendency was the black teeth and the total hair removal of the eyebrows,
today it is more based on the big eyes as the manga characters.
In Asia, the beauty ritual is composed of 10 steps compared to the occidental who is
less important. The woman is known for the time spent for the skin care. This is a
market more demanding for high quality products. The demand from the occidental
consumers is less strict too. A perfect skin doesn’t mean the same as in Asia. The
communication needs to be more important in order to inform the Asian clients of the
advantages.
Moreover, many products are inspired from the Asian market. According to the study
from “Euromonitor International”, this market will represent 80% of the turnover of
the industry in 2019. Even if the occidental market is the biggest one, the situation
will change in a couple of years. Indeed, the influence of Asia in the cosmetics field is
growing. Through many bloggers, the communication of the Asian products is easiest.
The tendencies from Japan, China and South Korea are well developed in the skin
care. Because, the Asian consumers are more concerned about the innovations and the
quality of the products, the companies invest more in the research and development.
Lancôme from L’Oreal is the only European brand to inspire itself from the Asian
industry. Many of the local firms are using the traditional ingredients from the oldest
culture. As the green tea or the Ginseng, those are the many substances that are
launched by the Asiatic market and used by the company Body Shop, for example.
e. The environmental consequences
L’Oreal is engaged for the environment. The group wants to innovate, produce, share
and consumer in an eco-friendly way. It has established its objectives for 2020.
61
In the innovation, L’Oreal wants all the novelty to create an advantage for the
environment. The substances have to use durable resources, the formula must not
leave any negative print. Moreover, the packaging and the product will not destroy the
planet. Today, the group is already working on this side, however the numbers are not
reached yet.
In the production, the factories will reduce the gas emission of 60%, according to the
advancement report from L’Oreal in 2014. The firm already diminished the half of
this emission since 2005. The water will be used more carefully, and 60% of the
utilization will be deleting, as for the wastes.
In the consumption, the consumers will be informed of the environmental profile of
the products. Each brand of L’Oreal will have to give a report of the progress made
for the environment. The clients will be co-creator in the development in order to be
greener.
The share is different between the employees, the suppliers, and the communities. The
employees will have a health assurance and financial protection in case of accident.
Indeed, L’Oreal created “Share & Care” in order to help its employees to feel
confortable in the working place. The suppliers are selected on the performances in
the environment and inside the society. The common green politic will be created and
all the suppliers will be formed to work as eco-friendly.
The community will integrate 100 000 persons from the program Solidarity Sourcing
and handicap groups.
All these engagements toward the planet are made to increase the turnover of the
company as well. During the COP21 in 2015, the group was still part of the
companies, which make a lot for the environment. L’Oreal is keeping high criterion in
order to have good performances too. This is an opportunity to reinforce the
62
productivity, the innovation and a transparency to the consumers and suppliers. The
social responsibility is based on the “Sharing beauty with all”. The company is also
organizing a citizen day with a worldwide engagement.
f. The future full of opportunities
There are a lot of opportunities for the brands in the cosmetics industry. Indeed, the
group is not only able to sell some products but also to help the consumers to find the
most adapted product and advice in order to feel beautiful.
The interaction is possible through Internet and the social media, which connect the
consumers to the company. In fact, the emerging markets are really attracted by this
link, it helps the clients to have more information. Moreover, between consumers,
they can share their advices and tips.
The novelty is possible thanks to the emerging markets. There is a new target
audience who really appreciates the utilization of tendency in cosmetic products.
There are many categorizes where a brand can evaluate. The firms are selling solution
for each step of our life. For example, for a first date or a bad break up. They are at
the creation of the beauty. It is like magic comes from the product in order to satisfy
the need of the consumers.
In any country, a company has to adapt itself. There are opportunities everywhere
because of the various types of skin and cultures are different.
The group can unable the connection between fantasy and reality. It inspires the
image of beauty for the clients. It develops in a business of pleasure, interactivity,
novelty and technology. The products can surprise in a positive way and help the
consumers to have a better self-esteem.
63
To conclude, L’Oreal created its strategy through its history. Each of the
president brought a new vision and new objectives. Thanks to a good management,
the success is still present today. For the future, the group engages itself to adapt to
other diversity in order to reach billion of consumers.
L’Oreal is working in the industry of “beauty products”. It is one of the main leader in
almost every country. However, they are many competitors and the firm needs to
innovate to have advantages.
There are many different types of company, but L’Oreal is the only one to be present
in all of them. Thanks to its position, the threats are low. On each aspect, there are
many opportunities to take. Indeed, the new technologies able the advancement of
novelties in cosmetics.
Moreover, the company has many types of product, which allow it to target each
culture worldwide. Everything started thanks to the chemist Eugene Schueller and its
entrance in the professional products. However, the tendency of today is centered on
the natural substances. It permits to Body Shop, one of the divisions of the group, to
have a great increase.
The firm is not only selling its products but also its culture. The expansion of L’Oreal
is based on its many acquisitions. The financial resources are good, it allows the
group to develop its social responsibility. However, there is a risk to scatter the
communication and the image. Thus, the company wants to be transparent.
Its performances and implementation on 130 countries in 5 countries are able by its
portfolio of brands. Since its creation, the strategy was focus on internationalization,
globalization then universalization. Today, the group adapts all its activities to the
local needs of the consumers. The organization is divided between the geographic
areas and the specific divisions.
64
However, because of this strategy, many of the brands in this industry are defining the
norms of the society. They are creating a certain image of beauty, which may have
some serious consequences on the clients. There are also some negatives impacts on
the environment as well.
The industry of the cosmetics stays full of resources. It offers many opportunities
through new markets and cultures. This is enabled by the evolution of the
technologies and the exchange of tendencies between different countries.
65
Appendix
Table 1: Summary of the CEO
Names Dates Photos Summary Sources
Eugène
Schueller 1909-1957
- Creation of
L’Oreal
- Creation and
innovation of the
main products
- Partnerships with
professionals
- Innovation of
advertising
campaign
Chimie, notre
jeunesse : Eugène
Schueller n° 71.
(Janvier 1958)
Retrieved from
http://www.patrons
defrance.fr/?q=sipp
af-actor-
record/21058
François
Dalle 1957-1984
- Development
R&D
- Industrialization
- Acquisition of
others brands
http://www.lavoixd
unord.fr/region/hes
din-francois-dalle-l-
homme-qui-a-fait-
de-l-oreal-
ia36b49156n23783
70
Charles
Zviak 1984-1988
- Retention of the
organization
http://www.loreal.fr
/groupe/histoire/198
4-2000
Lindsay
Owen
Jones
1988-2011
- Expansion to new
markets
- Accessible prices
- New acquisitions
- Social
responsibilities
http://www.journald
unet.com/economie/
dirigeants/retraites-
supplementaires-
complementaires-
patrons/1-lindsay-
owen-jones.shtml
Jean Paul
Agon 2011-Now
- Face the economic
issues
- Reach new
markets
- Target the middle
classes
http://www.loreal.c
om/group/governan
ce/executive-
committee/jean-
paul-agon
66
Image 2.1: Mapping of the competitors
Source: Collin, B., & Delplancke, J. (2015). L'Oréal: La beauté de la stratégie. Paris:
Dunod.
Table 2.2: The porter’s five forces
The threat of new entrance The pressure from substitutes
Weak Middle
The power of clients The power of suppliers
High Weak
Competitive rivalry
Oligopoly
Table 2.3: The different aspects
The legal The economic
- Depends on the country
- Transparent composition
- Income
- Inequality
67
- Evolution
The cultural The technological
- Social aspect
- Local tastes
- Way of living
- Evaluation of the innovations
- Investments in the R&D
The environment
- Consumption of energy
- Protection of the environment
Table 3.1: The diversity of products
Types
The
consumer
products
The
professional
products
The luxury
products
The active
cosmetic
The body
shop
Summary
- Accessible
prices
- For middle
classes
- High
technologies
- Hair
salons
- Dynamic
- Training
of the
beauty
professions
- 3 parts:
skin cares,
makeups and
perfumes
- Quality
- Innovation
- Modern
- Health
professional
- For
pharmacies
and
drugstores
- E-
commerce
- Natural
ingredients
- Specific
for
celebration
s
Brands
L’Oreal
Paris,
Garnier,
Maybelline
New,
SoftSheenCar
son, Essie…
Lancôme,
Giorgio
Armani,
Yves Saint
Laurent,
Cacharel,
Biotherm,
Kiehl’s,
Ralph
Lauren, Shu
Uemura…
L’Oreal
professional,
Kérastase,
Matrix,
Pureology,
Décléor,
Carita, Essie,
Redken…
Vichy, La
Roche
Posay,
SkinCeutica
ls,
Rocher&Gal
let,
Sanoflore…
The Body
Shop
68
Image 3.2: The structure of L’Oreal
Image 3.3: The financial resources, Turnover in millions of Euros/year
Source : Rapport financier annuel. (2015). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
69
Table 3.4: SWOT
Strengths Weaknesses
- Leader of the market
- International presence
- Innovations
- R&D
- Activity on all types of product
- Activity on all distribution channels
- Dependency of the developed markets
- Adaptation of the acquisitions to the
group image and values
- Expensive investments
Opportunities Threats
- Increase of the man market
- E-commerce
- Social media
- Natural products
- New markets
- Many competitors
- Forgery
- The power of the clients
- Laws
70
Survey 5.1:
The 50 women, who answered to this survey, have between 19 and 50 years old. They
are coming from many different countries of the world.
Theimpactofthecosmeticsadsontheconsumers
Source:http://alf-img.com/show/l-oreal-makeup-ads.html
Aboutyou
Gender: Age:Country: Occupation:
YourdefinitionofbeautyWhatmakesyoubuycosmeticproducts?Definetheperfectbeautyaccordingtoyou.Areyouabletogooutwithoutanymakeup?Why?Ifyes,areyouabletogoonafirstdatewithoutanymakeup?Why?
TheimpactofthecosmeticsadsDoyouhaveanegativefeelingaboutyourappearancewhenyouseecosmeticsads?Ifyes,doyouthinktheproductwillhelpyoutoreducethisnegativefeeling?Doyoucompareyourselfwiththemodeloncosmeticsads?Ifyes,doyouwanttolooklikethemodeloncosmeticsads?Doyouthinkcosmeticsadsinfluence/createthedefinitionoftheperfectbeauty?
71
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72
Articles
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73
Reports
• Rapport d’activité. (2014). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
• Rapport d’avancement. (2014). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
• Rapport financier annuel. (2014). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
• Rapport financier annuel. (2015). L’Oreal. Retrieved November, 2015, from
www.loreal.fr/.
Websites
• "L'Oréal, Leader Mondial De La Beauté : Maquillage, Cosmétiques, Soins
Capillaires, Parfums - L'Oréal Groupe." L'Oréal, Leader Mondial De La Beauté :
Maquillage, Cosmétiques, Soins Capillaires, Parfums - L'Oréal Groupe. N.p., n.d.
Web. 04 May 2016.
• "L'Oréal SA - Company Profile, Information, Business Description, History,
Background Information on L'Oréal SA." L'Oréal SA - Company Profile, Information,
Business Description, History, Background Information on L'Oréal SA. N.p., n.d.
Web. 04 May 2016.